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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ec7347c --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #60403 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/60403) diff --git a/old/60403-0.txt b/old/60403-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 90c185b..0000000 --- a/old/60403-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10186 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Japan expedition. Japan and around the -world, by J. W. (J. Willett) Spalding - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Japan expedition. Japan and around the world - An account of three visits to the Japanese empire, with - sketches of Madeira, St. Helena, cape of Good Hope, - Mauritius, Ceylon, Singapore, China, and Loo-Choo - -Author: J. W. (J. Willett) Spalding - -Release Date: October 1, 2019 [EBook #60403] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE JAPAN EXPEDITION *** - - - - -Produced by MFR, Les Galloway and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - -Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. Variations -in hyphenation have been standardised but all other spelling and -punctuation remains unchanged. - -Italics are represented thus _italic_, bold thus =bold= and underline -thus +under+. - - - - -[Illustration: _LITH. OF SARONY & Co. NEW YORK._ - JAPANESE.] - - - - - +THE JAPAN EXPEDITION+ - - JAPAN - - AND - - AROUND THE WORLD - - AN ACCOUNT OF - - THREE VISITS TO THE JAPANESE EMPIRE - - WITH SKETCHES OF - - MADEIRA, ST. HELENA, CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, MAURITIUS, - CEYLON, SINGAPORE, CHINA, AND LOO-CHOO - - BY J. W. SPALDING - OF THE U. S. STEAM-FRIGATE MISSISSIPPI, FLAG SHIP OF THE EXPEDITION - - WITH EIGHT ILLUSTRATIONS IN TINT - - [Illustration: publishers device] - - REDFIELD - 34 BEEKMAN STREET, NEW YORK - 1855. - - - - - Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1855, - BY J. S. REDFIELD, - - in the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States, - in and for the Southern District of New York. - - - SAVAGE & McCREA, STEREOTYPERS, - 13 Chambers Street, N. Y. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -The kindness and courtesy of that fine officer and estimable gentleman, -Commander Sydney Smith Lee, in conferring upon the writer a position -on the ship under his command, gave him the opportunity of seeing the -“wonders of the world abroad,” in the Japan Expedition. - -The following pages do not profess to be a history of Japan, of which -there are already a number extant, but only embody observations of -what came under notice, in a cruise of nearly two and a half years. -They do not pretend to invariable accuracy, the writer having kept no -journal, and having had to depend on scattered memoranda, jottings down -to friends, and to memory. He has endeavored to tell the tale of his -travels, as his eyes told it to him. - -He has indulged in no adjectives about the ocean, because he believes -that there has been more deliberate nonsense written upon it, than upon -any other thing in all Nature. - - RICHMOND, VA., 1855. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - CHAPTER I. - - Leave the United States—“Old Ironsides” Mississippi—A - Man-of-War at Night—Gulf Stream—Music—First Foreign Land—The - Washerwomen—Funchal—Its Harbor—Cavalleros—The Wine—A - Consul—_Nossa Senhora do Monte_—The Coral—A Hospital—A - Prison—Dago Pauperism—Donna Clementina—Good-by, Madeira PAGE 8 - - - CHAPTER II. - - At Sea again—The Canaries—The “Trades,” Incipient and - Real—Man-of-War Existence—Drills—Running down the - “Trades”—Small-Pox—Christmas that was not Christmas—First - General Order issued—Under Steam again—Man Overboard—Crossing - the Line—Arrival at the Ocean-Prison—St. Helena—Hot - January—Reverberation—Slavers—James’ Town—A View from a - Summit—Tomb of the Great Emperor—Jonathan—To Longwood—The New - House—Plantation House—A Bust of Napoleon—Departure from St. Helena - 27 - - - CHAPTER III. - - Cape of Good Hope—Shadows—Cape Town—Sights in the Street—Drive - to Constantia—The Wine—Kaffir War—Botanical—Leave Cape Town—The - Birkenhead—Cattle at Sea—Anti-Scorbutic—St. Valentine’s Day, and - the “Styx”—The Indian Ocean 45 - - - CHAPTER IV. - - Isle of France—John Bull under a Torrid Sun—Port Louis and - its Bazar—Different Races and Religions—In the Country at - Mauritius—John Chinaman—Pamplemouses—Paul and Virginia—A Botanical - Garden—Reality as well as Romance—Hurricanes—History of the - Island—The “22d”—Fruits—Leave Mauritius—Difference of Time 56 - - - - - CHAPTER V. - - “Light, Ho!”—Ceylon’s Spicy Breezes, and Sir John Mandeville—Point - de Galle—Ceylonese Troops—d’honies—The Natives—Walled - Town—Sandal Shoon and Mohammedan Temple and School—Greek Slaves - in Bronze—Hirsute and Citronella—Priessnitz’ Doings—Pigeon - Express—Ceylon Historically—A Siamese Captain—Departure from - Point de Galle—Bay of Bengal—Straits of Malacca—Pulo-Penang—The - Cleopatra—Letters—Anchor at Singapore—Malay Boats—The East - by Anticipation—Junks—Gong-Beating—The Esplanade—Malay - Houses—Sago—Hospitals—Joss-House—Prison—Rajah of Johore—Leave - Singapore—First of April—Intense Heat—Cathay—Macao-Hong - Kong—Salute of Welcome—Oriental Salute 64 - - - CHAPTER VI. - - Macao—The _Donna Maria_—Cathedrals and Forts—Camoens—An English - Missionary—Death of the Governor—Fast and Tanka Boats—Bocca - Tigris—Clipper-Ships and Junks—Chartering a Tender—First of - May—The Yang-tse-kiang—Agriculture and the Chinese—Shanghai and the - Bund—The Missionaries—Sing-Song—Gambling—Dead Beggars—Nautical - Dramatics—The Shanghae Races—Shifting the Flag—Supply Ashore—Wreck - of a Junk—Bring the Crew of the Junk Aboard—Left for Loo-Choo 87 - - - CHAPTER VII. - - Great Loo-Choo Island—General Orders—Outer Door - of the Hermetic Empire—Historic Outline of the - Loo-Choo Islands—Approach to them—Loo-Chooan - Simplicity—Dress—Bettelheim—Napa—Language—Foreign - Graves—Horse-Portage—The Prince Regent—To - Sheudi—Feast—International Sentiment—Sheudi-Cyclopean Masonry—“Old - Napa”—Bonin Group—Return to Napa—First Visit to Japan—“_The_ - Fourth” on the Sea—A Meteor 100 - - - CHAPTER VIII. - - Cipango—Japan an “Unknown Land”—Works on Japan-Kœmpfer—Japanese - Mythology—Geography—History—Japanese “John Doe”—Napoleon No. III. - of the Mongols—Kublai-Khan—European Intercourse—English Views about - the Opening of Japan 132 - - - CHAPTER IX. - - Sounding-Spars—_Foogee Yama_—Entrance to the Bay - of Yedo—Precautionary Measures—Uraga—Troops—“Old - Hundred”—Sounding—Yezimon—Gorihama—_The_ - Landing—Joust or Tourney—Audience—President’s - Letter—Anecdotal—Fortifications—Sounding—Japanese - Presents—Costume—Junks—Leave Japan—A Burial at Sea—A - Cyclone—Loo-Choo 143 - - - CHAPTER X. - - China—The Rebellion—Hong Hospitality—Blenheim - Reach—Torrid—Consular Courts—Canton—Feast of the - Lanterns—Howqua’s Garden—Sallie Baboos—Cum-sing-Moon—Death - of an Officer—Opium Hulks—The Traffic—Effects of Opium—Its - Sale—Smuggling—Emperor of Japan Dead—Loss of Boat’s Crew of - the Plymouth—The American Commissioner—Around the Walls of - Canton—Chance for a Wife—Temple of Honan—Hong Kong 176 - - - CHAPTER XI. - - Leave China for Second Visit to Japan—Formosa—Napa-Keang—A - Refugee not a Koszta—Proselyting—Dr. Bettelheim and a Loo-Chooan - Sangrado—Coal Dépôt—Sheudi—Cumshaws—Off for the Bay of - Yedo—Dangerous Navigation—Snow—Macedonian Ashore Foogee - Yama—Bay of Yedo—Where to Negotiate—22d of February—Japanese - Boats—Visiters—Japanese at Dinner—Swords—Aversion to the - Cross—The Landing—The Commissioners—The Audience—Answer - to the President’s Letter—A Japanese Repast—Their - Troops—“T’su-bi-ki”—Coal—A Christian Burial in - Japan—American Presents—An Ericsson Two Centuries Ago—A - Chaplain—Negotiations—Japanese Presents—Athletes—Entertainment of - Japanese Commissioners—Signing of the Treaty—Yezimon—Attempt to - reach Yedo—The “Happy Despatch”—Emperor in Disguise—Leave Bay of - Yedo for Simoda 204 - - - CHAPTER XII. - - Simoda or Lower Field—Surveying—Japanese - Spies—Temples—Sintooism—Another Pilgrim’s Progress—A Night’s - Lodging—Bargaining—Japanese Women—Indiscriminate Bathing—Turtle - Soup—An Adventure—Buddhist Temple—Midnight Visiters—In a - Cage—Japanese Epistolarians—A Great Secret—Defences—Foogee Yama - 264 - - - CHAPTER XIII. - - Departure for Hakodadi—Ohosima—Printing at Sea—Straits - of Sangar—Arrive at Hakodadi—Magnificent Bay—The City—A - Stampede—Interview with the Authorities—Arranging the - Currency—Purchasing—A Large Temple—Bonzes—Worshipping—Order - of the Blind—A View from Hakodadi Yama—A Lion Playing - Painter—Ni! Ni!—A Fort—Burials from the Vandalia—Japanese - and Ethiopics—Arrival of Functionaries—Characteristic - Communications—Hakodadi Eggs—Leave Hakodadi—Fog 292 - - - CHAPTER XIV. - - Foogee—Return to Simoda—Additional Regulations—Veneration for - Iyeyas—The Dutch at Desima—Japanese Princes and Mercantile - Pursuits—Russia a Bugbear—The Currency Question—The Monetary - System of Japan—Buoys—Sample of Coal—Stones for the Washington - Monument—Taste for Music—Things by Lottery—Japanese Lacquer and - Porcelain—Tea—Japanese Game of Chess, or “Sho-ho-ye”—A Second - Robinson Crusoe—Leave Japan for China—Macedonian to Keelong - and Manilla—Island of Oo—A Strange sail acting strangely—In - Napa Roadstead—Man Deservedly killed—His Highness the - Prince-Regent—Russian Admiral Pontiatine—Sermons on Shipboard—The - Status of Loo-Choo—Compact with Loo-Choo—Boom-a-Laddying with a - Broad Pennant—Great Pomp in our Institutions—Farewell to Loo-Choo - 312 - - - CHAPTER XV. - - Hong Kong Again—Letters—The Intestine Troubles—Triangulating - between Hong-Kong, Macao, and Whampoa—The Rebels—Chinese - Fighting—An Emperor’s Proclamation—Preparations for the - Departure of the American Opperbevelhebber—Daybook and Ledger - Epistolarians—A Title—Protection—A Jollyboat Steamer—Erudition - about Columbus, De Gama, and Others—A Letter from His Excellency - Perry—Syce Silver Service—More Mercantile Epistolarians and - Parvenuism—No Treaty of Commerce with Japan—Name Great among - the Heathen—Departure of Opperbevelhebber in the English - Mail-Steamer—Mississippi’s Third Visit to Japan—The Last of the - “Porpoise”—Arrive at Simoda again—Official Intercourse of Captain - Lee with the Authorities—Courtesies—Its-evoos and a Revolver—The - Ship Ho-o-maro—Cotton Cloths distributed—Chances of a Trade with - Japan—Final Departure from the Country—Supplemental—Exchange of - Ratifications of the Treaty—Simoda after an Earthquake—Loss of the - Russian Frigate Diana—The Inexorable Laws of Japan—English and - French at Nangasaki—The Cruise of the Mississippi around the World - 345 - - - APPENDIX 363 - - - - - THE - - JAPAN EXPEDITION. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - -The cruel treatment which had long been practised by that singular -and secluded people, the Japanese, toward American whalers who were -thrown by the misfortune of shipwreck upon their coasts, the incentive -of mercantile cupidity, and the urgency of personal ambition, induced -the government of the United States, in 1852, to project an expedition -to Japan, to obtain some assurance from the government of the country -against a continuance or repetition of the inhospitality and cruelty -inflicted upon our unfortunate citizens, and, if possible, to open the -sources of trade. The East India squadron was accordingly augmented for -this purpose, and Commodore Matthew Calbraith Perry was invested with -the command, and charged with the performance of the duty. - -After almost conjugating delay in all its moods and tenses, induced by -the failure of the boilers of the unfortunate “Princeton,” and other -causes, his flag-ship was ready for sea in November, 1852; and on -the 24th of this month and year, with a desire to visit the hermetic -empire, whetted by reading the Dutch historians, I found myself, as -commander’s clerk, on board of her. At mid-day we had dropped, not -below the “kirk or hill,” but below the hospital at Norfolk, and night -found us ploughing deeply the ocean in the direction of Madeira; and -before a very late hour the gleams from the Cape Henry lighthouse -disappeared altogether. - -The ship was the old steam-frigate “Mississippi,” which, as her name -is a synonyme for the “father of waters,” may be termed the father of -our war-steamers, having been the consort of the pioneer ship, the -Missouri, destroyed by fire on her first cruise, under the rock of -Gibraltar. She had been engaged unremittingly since she first slid from -her ways. The power of her engines had pulled from a reef in the Gulf a -large ship, and saved to the country the fine frigate Cumberland. The -shot and shell from one of her sixty-eights, in the naval battery at -Vera Cruz, had contributed to the downfall of the castle of San Juan. -She had lain at her anchor near the site of once classic Athens, and -in full view of what now remains of the once great city of Hannibal. -She had once sought shelter from a Levanter near Brundusium that was, -with its Appian way. Her paddle-wheels churning up the water of the -Black sea, announced the first appearance of an American man-of-war in -that stormy water; and on her decks, surrounded by his late fellows in -exile, Kossuth, fresh from the damp of his Kutahia prison, addressed -the seething populace around in the harbor of Marseilles, with a fervor -and eloquence which almost extenuated so indefensible a violation of -the national hospitality which our nation was then extending him; and -now the old Mississippi was leaving her own country, bound to the other -side of the great globe, bearing the hopes of many, and embarked in a -mission which might be successful—which might, perhaps, come to naught. - -I said she ploughed deeply on getting beyond the Capes, because, with -the considerate intelligence and humanity which preside over our naval -affairs, sending boxes of guns to sea with national names, bringing -about such sad losses as those of the Albany and the Porpoise, the -Mississippi, designed by her constructor to draw eighteen feet of -water, and to carry four hundred and fifty tons of coal, has her -bunkers enlarged to the capacity of six hundred tons, additional lines -of copper put upon her, and goes out drawing twenty-one feet, her -guards but a short distance from the water. In this state we left the -United States; her decks not yet cleared of the stores hastily put -aboard for the different messes; the lengthened visages of sad people -all around, thinking whether they had omitted anything in their notes -of last adieu sent back by the Pilot; the mustering and stationing of -a new crew at their division and fire quarters; the making everything -ready for sea, all presented such a novel scene to one who was on a -man-of-war underway for the first time, that he was too much engrossed -in observing, to tell his “native land good-night,” turning to do -which, he found that it had “faded,” not over the “waters blue,” but -behind an expanse of dull slate-colored ocean, which the heavy striking -of our deeply-immersed paddles was slowly and drowsily disturbing. -There was none of the graceful undulatory motion, and bellying out of -the great white canvass of the sailing-ship, which writers of much -imagination and nautical turn of mind, delight so much to sing about. -It was only the sturdy prose of a warlike old steamer belching from the -jaws of her great funnel columns of thick black smoke, which separated -at her mainmast, or rolled away in dense masses astern, perversely -holding on her way to the port of her destination. The “loguey” motion -of the ship, while it kept her decks wet from the swashing of a cross -sea over her head rail, at least had the advantage to a landsman of -enabling him to get on his “sea-legs” all the sooner. - -The scene at night on a man-of-war, is one full of interest to him who -sees it for the first time. The decks, busily thronged during the day -by the men in the performance of their duties, at an early hour of -the night, with the exception of the watch, are apparently deserted; -a number equal to the population of a small village, crowded close -together, swing in their pendent beds in oblivious sleep, which the -exertions of the day makes more profound, leaving nothing to disturb -the quiet of the vessel, save the half-hour striking of the ship’s -bell, and the quick responses of the different look-outs assuming their -watchfulness, or the drumming of the wheels as they send the yesty -water along the side. - -In a few days we crossed that great liquid fortification of our -coast—the Gulf-stream—when the temperature became greatly moderated, -our stoves were taken down, the cloudy skies that we had had -disappeared, and we hailed the sun. The water had changed from 41° to -71°, the sun came up magnificently from the ocean, and the air felt -like a balmy spring morning; away off in the southeast floated piles -of clouds like inverted illuminated pearl-shells, and for the first -time since leaving Norfolk, we were enabled to look upon the _deep_ -blue sea, and the blue deep sea. Then, too, our fine band, composed of -twenty-three brass and reed instruments, discoursed its most pleasant -strains for the first time since we had been out, under the leadership -of a talented old Italian musician—the only man I ever saw who, with a -nice “ear for music,” kept both of his auriculars continually stopped -with wool. - -The cry of “Land, ho!” on the evening of the 11th of December, -announced our vicinity to Madeira, after a rough and lonely passage -from the United States of eighteen days. The weather proving rough, -we wore ship and stood off during the night, and early in the morning -again stood for the island, and it was not long before we were running -under the lee of its northern side. Madeira at a distance, wrapped -in its hazy robe of blue, presents the appearance of a huge monster -reposing on the water, but running in under the land, the aspect is -far more attractive. Being the first foreign land on which my eyes had -ever rested, I gazed with increasing pleasure on the parti-colored -soil, on the graceful and silvery cascades precipitating themselves -down its steep shores, presenting the appearance of tapering spires -of churches, while nestling here and there on the cliffs, amid thick -verdure, were the happy-looking quintas and farmhouses. Toward evening, -leaving the singular formed rocks “Las Desertas” on our left, we -rounded the northeasternmost point of the island, and Funchal, in -its terraced beauty, came in full view. We fired a gun and hoisted a -jack for a pilot, but we were permitted to approach without the aid -of that functionary. It being Sunday, perhaps they did not officiate -on that day. Just before sundown we came to in the harbor, near the -Pontinha, and immediately on anchoring were boarded by the Portuguese -health-officer, who, finding we had no contagious disease aboard, -granted us _pratique_. The second promptest visiters to welcome us -were the washerwomen, who are all eager for the possession of the -soiled linen, at the same time evincing a wonder of recognition and -recollection perfectly satisfactory to themselves, but not at all -convincing to anybody else. One old shrivelled dame of a laundress -insisted that I had visited the island before, and pretended to adhere -to the opinion with the tenacity of Dolly, in Oliver Twist, when she -called upon the good bystanders to make her brother go home. This -was old Madam Yesus, and, as my poor battered garments subsequently -proved, she washed “not wisely, but too well.” They were eminently -communicative on general topics, told us how “mucher pauvre” they -were, gave us the first news of the approaching famine, and to men who -had been tumbling about the ocean for over half a month, the unsavory -intelligence that wine, which but a short time before could be bought -for forty cents per bottle, could now only be obtained for a dollar. - -Funchal, from the water, presents a very attractive appearance to the -traveller who sees it for the first time. I don’t know when I have -been more impressed with the beauty of any scene, than when from the -deck of our ship, with a delicious atmosphere that obliterated all -recollection of the month being December, a setting sun more keenly -defining and causing to loom up each object, I looked upon its bright -houses, made more so by the deep red of their tiles, as they rose in a -terraced crescent, one above another, the convent of Santa Clara, the -deep-hued verdure that filled up the interstices of the picture, the -Loo Rock fort, and the cathedral in the foreground, with just enough -of time-stain on its towers to make more venerable its front, and -the tortuous paved road, running up the hills like an immense, stony -serpent, terminating at the church of our “Lady of the Mount,” elevated -nineteen hundred feet above the sea; and the vineyards in the distance. - -Being an open roadstead, with the wind from a certain direction a -very heavy sea tumbles into the harbor, and there is at all times a -considerable surf breaking on the beach. On going ashore you have -to employ Portuguese surf-boats, which are much better constructed -for purposes of landing than our own. On either side, not far from -the keel, they have projecting pieces resembling the side-fins of a -dolphin, which gives them much steadiness in a sea-way, while head -and stern they have perpendicular handles as it were. As they near -the beach, one of the boatmen jumps over into the water, and, seizing -the piece at the prow, keeps the boat head on, when the succeeding -swell sets her high, if not dry, upon the sand, and you are ashore. -Your way thither may only be delayed a short time, by the officer -contrabandista, who, pulling alongside, touches his hat, and proceeds, -by an inspection of your boat, to see whether his aquatic countrymen -are not attempting to smuggle ashore such things as soap and tobacco, -which his most gracious sovereign of Portugal has been pleased to -reserve as a government monopoly. When the weather is rather rough, the -customary place of landing is the Pontinha, a steep rock terminating -an arched causeway, or kind of breakwater, from which the coal is -usually embarked for the steamers stopping at the island. The scene -presented, or the horrible clamor that salutes your ears, is not -particularly calculated to prolong the pleasant illusion which the -more distant sight of the place gave you. You no sooner put your -foot on the stone stairs than your winding way of ascent is beset by -innumerable lazzaroni most offensive in habit and appearance, whose -rabid importunities for alms will not permit you to say them nay. Once -through this crowd of “dago” pauperism—the most squalid and effete -of all pauperism, your movements on the causeway are impeded by the -boisterous calls of the Borro Querros, with their horses already -saddled and bridled for “gentlemin” to ride. The bellowing guttural of -one fellow provokes your attention to his steed, in whose praises he is -loud, having gotten which, he digs him in flank, and dashes off over -the stony pavement, to show you his paces. Your charger selected (I had -a weakness in the matter of a fine bay myself,) the din ceases. Our -party, consisting of five or six well mounted, determined on a gallop -to the “Petite Coral,” calling on the polite and hospitable consul on -our way thither. One peculiarity strikes you on starting, that is, that -your dago friend, of whom you obtained your charger, acts as a kind -of equerry during your ride, and the better to enable him to accompany -you, when you are inclined to give your horse the rein, he seizes that -animal by the tail with one hand, keeping off the flies with a wisp in -the other, or uses it as an accelerator on his haunches, holding on -meanwhile with a grip which the Kirk Alloway witches would have envied -when they brought about that _finale_ to “poor Maggy.” - -The streets through which we rode were quite narrow, and enclosed by -balconied houses of two stories, or stuccoed garden walls, over which -the graceful banana leaf bent, or a cornice of beautiful running -flowers was to be seen. From the nearly closed casement pretty dark -eyes peeped down upon you, pretty I fear, because scarcely any other -features were visible. The native women we met in the street walked -closely veiled, which none who met them desired to have done away -with, if a truant zephyr once gave a sight of their swarthy faces. -Your attention is attracted by the rather picturesque costume of the -natives, which consists of a loose shirt drawn at the waist, knee -breeches made full, _white_ boots which are regularly chalked, and -on the summit of their cranium they wear a cap of cloth bearing an -identical resemblance to an apothecary’s glass funnel inverted. The -manner in which the peasants retain these head coverings in their -place, has been as perplexing to strangers, as how the apple got -inside the dumpling was to England’s sovereign, but considering the -population, it would not be uncharitable to conclude that the tension -is induced by the vacuum in the noddles they surmount, on the principle -of the “sucker” with which philosophic juveniles raise a brick. The -continued “Boo-ah” resounding in the streets, as the driver of the -sleds with casks upon them spurs up the two poor little oxen, whom a -small boy leads with a string from the horn, soon convinces you that -you are in the land of the elevating “Tinta,” and generous “Serchal.” -Should the sled drag heavily over the stones, the small boy throws -down in front of it a wetted cloth, passing over which, the runner is -lubricated. - -On reaching the residence of the American consul, we dismounted and -partook of a lunch, which his hospitality invariably provides for his -visiting countrymen. It is unnecessary to tell with what gusto, men who -eighteen days before were gathered around a stove in their own land, -were now in the genial air of Madeira, windows open, and perfume coming -in all around from beautiful plants, partook of the rich treat of -guavas, the small banana, and the Mandarin orange just plucked from the -tree that thrust itself in the casement. The snack over, we ascended to -the consul’s observatory; a fine glass, mounted on a tripod, swept the -offing and anchorage, giving every object much nearness. Our old ship -lying stately at her anchors, was just saluting with twenty-one guns -the Portuguese flag floating at her fore, which was promptly returned -by the fort on Loo Rock. Around and below us were patches of green-vine -and trellis, amid an expanse of red tile roofs, on many of which were -placed wine-casks that they might sweeten in the sun. We then descended -to the wine-houses, where butt after butt of large dimensions, reached -by foot ladders, of Tinta and Serchal, and “Navy,” told how the -delightful grape of the island had swelled into fullness, and then been -crushed into wine. Ah! Clarence, thou shouldst have lived till now. - -We mounted and started for le Petite Coral, by the way of the church -_Nossa Senhora do Monte_. The angle of ascent of the road is over -twenty degrees, but the style of going up is usually to give your -horse his head and his rider’s heel, and if like Putnam’s he dashes -up, racketing it over the stones, and sending back fire from his -heels, why it’s the way. Being bantered for a dash up by one of my -messmates, and my friend the Borro Querro in the rear not being a party -thereto, I regret to remark, that the last I saw of that respected -individual after the start, he was engaged in performing some very -sudden gyrations proximate to the roadside hedge. However, a glass -of the country wine, on his joining me at the blowing place, about -half-way up, enabled me to make my entire peace with him for the -suddenness of my leaving. The way up was lined with vines and dogs, -peasant girls and chapels, mendicants and donkeys, which would knock -Mr. Laurence Sterne’s sentimental blubber all in the head. The clatter -of the approaching hoofs caused the dark browed senoritas to “come -unto the window,” but the horses appeared to hurry on the faster for -their presence. The descent of this mountain is generally made at -a rapid pace, on a rude sled, two boys riding behind and giving it -proper direction. The mode of movement about the streets, is, if a -foreigner and invalid, in a hammock suspended from a pole, and borne -on the shoulders of two men, steadying themselves as they walk with -quarter-staffs; if a native gentleman in a canopied sled drawn by -unsightly oxen, which _quick_ mode of movement will convey a very good -idea of the enterprise of the people who employ it. - -But we were on the way to the Church of the Lady of the Mount. It was -not very long before we dismounted at the foot of the long flight of -discolored stone steps that led to its front. On reaching the terrace -we looked down on the view below us. The town had dwindled into a -white-washed amphitheatre; the ships were not quite as much changed -as the objects to the sight of Edgar from the cliffs of Dover, but -appeared greatly reduced in proportion. I could scarcely believe that -the Mississippi, riding at her anchors in the bay, was the floating -home of over three hundred human beings! - -On entering the church, we were met at the door by a pussy snuff-taking -priest, whose besmeared outer garment looked as if it would have -been all the better for the application of a cake of brown soap in -connection with some of the clear water which coursed down the mountain -past his sanctuary. The interior of the edifice displayed the most -garish taste, and with its sickening amount of gilding, was embellished -in the most tawdry manner. There was the customary proportion of -relics, and the paintings around looked very old. Our stay was short, -and after leaving a small sum for our footing, as Jack would say, we -returned to our steeds, leaving the wax figure of the lady patroness -of the island in a glass case in the rear, looking as demure and as -indifferent to our presence as when we entered. The whilom legends of -the devout tell of her, at a time when breadstuffs were scarce, having -left her crystal enclosure and gone to hurry on cargoes of grain to -Funchal, which, like Buckingham, were “on the sea.” - -The descent to the Coral—a deep mountain gorge of singular and -circular formation—is by a narrow shelf of a road cut in the face of a -precipitous hill, and running in inclined planes. One does not entirely -fancy the task of going down; but then the horses are rough-shod, -with reference to such places, are remarkably sure footed, and move -instinctively with much caution. On getting to the bottom, the road by -which we had just come looked like a mere thread-line on the face of -the cliff that hung over us. Its depth is some sixteen hundred feet, -and you look up to the azure above you as from an immense pit. We -stopped at a small mill situated at the lowest point of the Coral, to -give our horses a little time to blow, and our borro querros a little -country wine, which was likewise patronized by ourselves. I noticed -around clumps of pines planted for fuel, and a number of exquisite -flowers growing spontaneously. We ascended from the Coral by a road -equally as narrow and precipitous as the one by which we had gone -down, only proving less clear; a large rock which had caved from the -bank nearly barricaded the path, and on reaching it my horse, whose -reputation I subsequently ascertained to be one for shying, came quite -near treating himself and rider to a Tarpean fate. On reaching the top, -we were refreshed by a breeze redolent with perfume, and turned into -a road enclosed on either side by hedges of bona fide geranium. It is -feeding on this sweet plant that imparts to the meat of the native -cattle, when eaten, a peculiar flavor; and the honey of the bee who -gathers his sweets from it, is strongly impregnated with its pleasant -odor. No wonder that the attenuated invalid should resort to thee, -beautiful Madeira, to revive his drooping spirits. We returned to the -city in the evening, by a road running past pleasant gardens, and by a -bridge that spans the canal which receives the quickly-swollen mountain -streams, and put ourselves in charge of mine host of Guilletti’s. - -The next day I landed near the governmental house, where was staying -as a guest the invalided empress mother of Brazil, who had, with a -broken constitution, gone to Madeira, since to die. I visited the -charitable hospital of the place, which fronts on the grand plaza. No -sight can be more loathsome than the one to be seen in the wards of a -Portuguese hospital, unless it be that of the dead mendicants that you -pass in the streets of some of the cities of China. The most terrible -ailments that flesh is heir to, and the greatest suffering that “age, -ache, and penury, can lay on nature,” were present all around. And then -there were others in whom the flame of life, after flickering lowly, -had just gone out. I was very willing to get away from the apartment, -and after descending to a dimly-lighted chapel below, where a solitary -priest was engaged in prayer for the repose of the dead and dying -above, and glancing at its characteristic decorations, I left the -building. The edifice itself is quite an extended one, though it has no -architectural beauty to attract attention. Over its main entrance, cut -elaborately in a massive block of stone, are the royal arms of Portugal. - -My next place of visit was to the local prison, through which I was -accompanied by a sergeant. The inmates, who were composed of both -sexes, confined for offences of smuggling a bar of soap, up to those -of a graver character, are allowed to indulge in any handiwork for -which they are competent, and the product of their hands, tied on -the ends of poles, is thrust through their prison-windows into the -street, of which they solicit the purchase by the passer-by. But not -even in the prisons are you exempt from the “_por sua suade_”—the -interminable solicitation for alms; and the distance which the prisoner -may be from you is no barrier, as he is provided with a small car -which, with a pole, he can push to his outer grating, and as quickly -withdraw. I can mention a circumstance to show with what little sense -of degradation or hesitancy this thing of alms-asking is indulged in by -a dago population. I was sitting in front of the consul’s, conversing -with some friends, when quite a genteel and tidily-dressed person, -rejoicing in a much better pair of patent-leathers than I could muster, -approached us and solicited alms, and was quite pertinacious in his -request. I had heard of the Spanish beggars on horseback, who solicited -aid of pedestrians on the ground that they had more need of assistance -than other people because they had to support their beast as well as -themselves, but I had never met with anything quite as deliberate until -I encountered my patent-leather-shoe friend at Madeira. - -And now we have been at Funchal two days, and the third, on which we -are to take our departure for St. Helena, has arrived. In taking leave -of the pleasant isle of vine and bower, the writer regrets that he can -not, for the benefit of those of a more sentimental mood than himself, -follow the example of others, and say something about the Santa Clara -convent, that stands embosomed by deep foliage on the hill, and tell -in touching tones about the fair and unhappy Donna Clementina, who, -besides being admired because Heaven had vouchsafed to her a visage -blonde, when those around were brunette, was also loved for other -qualities, for which _vide_ her devotees—how she “would be a nun,” and -how she “wouldn’t be a nun;” and how some “young Lochinvar,” who they -say came “out of the west,” once wished to do something both romantic -and desperate, and rescue the fair lady from the holy precincts where, -it was represented, she was most unwillingly detained; but, with Mr. -Aminadab Sleek, in the play, “we are really afraid we can’t.” - -Good-by, Madeira, whose tropical beauty was so fresh to me, and the -picture of whose loveliness will be ever in mind. - - “Long, long be my heart with such memories filled.” - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - -On the afternoon of the 15th of December, all hands being on board, -with coal dust, and wine for distinguished functionaries in the U. S. -on our decks, an orange and banana smell over the ship, and six little -Madeira bullocks, who, upon being hoisted in by the horns, no sooner -reached the decks, than they indulged in a series of cavortings, to the -no small amusement of the old shell-back denizens of the forecastle, -we lifted anchor, and steamed away from Funchal, to the south. At -nightfall Madeira’s lines of green, and basalt, and red soil, were lost -to view. - -We were now entering on the longest run we anticipated making during -the cruise. On the second morning out at an early hour we made Palma, -one of the westernmost of the Canary islands. When the sun came up from -behind it, defining its sharp peaks and irradiating the whole outline -of the island, I had the happy consciousness that it fully compensated -me for the rupture of my matinal slumbers, necessary to get a glimpse -of it. The celebrated peak of Teneriffe was wrapped in cloud when we -passed, and I did not see it; though others with “optics sharp,” at one -time, said they discerned it in the extreme distance. We subsequently -passed in sight of the Cape de Verde islands. During the day we ran -into what is termed the incipient northeast trades, and as our coal was -not deemed sufficient for the run before us, the engines were stopped, -twenty tons of water blown from the boilers, fires extinguished, -sufficient number of the paddles removed from the wheels, which were -lashed, the large smoke stack lowered on the hurricane deck, and the -ship put under sail. Many of us thought if the Japanese could only -get a sight of the funnel as it lay in its chocks like another huge -“peace-maker” when we reached their country, they would prove quite -accessible. The spars of the Mississippi being tall, she spread a great -deal of canvass, but the wind continuing quite light we made but little -progress for several days. A whale saluted us by tapping his head -against our port guard. On the 18th we tacked ship, and on the 21st we -got the trade-winds proper, and under studding-sails ran quite well. -Life on the ocean, monotonous, nearly, at all times, was rendered more -so to us, by the transition from a steamer to a sailing ship. To study -on shipboard, or even to read with profit, as I had heard before, is -next to impossible, unless it may be with an old sea-dog to whom for -some forty years the “ocean has been a dwelling-place.” Try it, and you -will find your eyes wandering from the type, and your thoughts bolting -from the subject, like a refractory quarter-horse over a track railing. -The weekly routine of the ship was comprised in going to quarters, -morning and evening, for inspection; and once a week the whole ship’s -company are beat to general quarters, when the magazines are open, the -powder-boys busy in passing and repassing cartridge-boxes, the guns -are cast loose and worked by their crews, boarders are called away, -pikemen are posted to repel boarders, marines are stationed near them, -&c.; the master gives his orders for sail-trimmers to put stoppers on -such portions of the rigging, as an active imagination suggests must -have been shot away, and all the evolutions of an actual engagement at -sea are gone through; together with exercise at fire-quarters, when -an alarm with the ship’s bell is rung, at which sentinels are placed -at the falls of each boat, so that in an actual emergency there could -be none of the inhuman desertion and infamous flight which marked -the sad catastrophe of the “Arctic.” All of these exercises, which -increase the discipline of a crew and the efficiency of a ship, are of -course possessed of more interest to those officers who have military -duties to perform on board, than others, who are too apt to experience -the indifference of the Emerald isle native, who being informed that -the house was on fire, replied it was nothing to him, he “was only a -boarder.” - -The weather we experienced in the trades was very pleasant, though it -became hot with much suddenness. Pretty white clouds trooped across the -sky like pilgrims in white, bound to Mecca. The regular waves as they -came chasing one another from the horizon, rolled the whitest caps, -and the sea was of the bluest, particularly as the lashed arms of our -wheels divided the water in their passage, and the wheel-houses keeping -off the direct rays of the sun, made it exquisitely transparent. Though -the dews at night were so heavy that the moisture would run like -rain off the awnings, yet the shadows of the big sails that had gone -to sleep from the steadiness of the wind, made deeper by the bright -moonlight and the illuminated image of the engine of our Savior’s -agony—the “southern cross”—with its twinkling stars looking down from -the sky, made one forget that the distance from the coast of Africa was -not the greatest, and that the wearing of a thick coat at night, was a -decided improvement on a thin one. Porpoises were almost in the daily -practice of thrusting their swinish nozzles upon public attention, -and innumerable graceful little flying-fish, disturbed by our passage -through the water, or chased by the dolphin, flew continually across -the waves ahead of us, like flocks of sparrows over briers. But then we -had the smallpox on board, on the person of a Portuguese boy shipped at -Funchal, and the possibility of contracting this loathsome disease, or -the possession of an arm rather sore from vaccination, did not make the -run more pleasurable. - -The events of Christmas day were, that we were in 13° 23′ north -latitude, and 23° 48′ west longitude; a very pleasant repast was spread -by the ward-room, where “home with all its endearments” was drunk in -Serchal; and a poor little bird very much resembling the partridge -of our own country, was blown aboard. This little representative of -Africa’s feathery race fell a victim to the taxidermist aboard. What he -thought previous to his demise, of the day, I know not, but to me it -was not Christmas; and no mental effort could “bring back the features -that joy used to wear” when the mistletoe was hung, and the back log -placed; nor could the defunct gobbler, who lately bestrode our coop, -sole tenant, now lying in very brown state on a festive table, even -provoke the pleasant memories. - -The next day, promulgated by Commodore M. C. Perry, and signed by the -then hiatus secretary of the navy, Mr. Swallow-Barn Kennedy, was read -on the quarter-deck, General Order, No. 1, which, it is said, had a -precedent in the expedition of Lieut. Wilkes, but which was as bad as -its precedent, and equally unjust, being based upon the ridiculous -premise that because a government may have claim upon your thews and -sinews, or your mental aptitude in the line of your profession, that -it likewise has property in the product of your brain, no matter in -what other way, out of your calling, it may be exercised. This order -was violated subsequently in China, in the grossest way, with the -tacit consent of the commander-in-chief who first issued it; as if -the prominent, in rule, or law, under our government were any more -exempt from its provisions, than that the humblest are not beneath its -control. I say in the grossest way, because he permitted, if he did not -personally supervise, the preparation of an account of the movements -of his squadron, for the colonial English newspapers at Hong-Kong, -in preference to our own; papers too, whose columns at other times -displayed the village squabbling, which marked the thunders, of the -“Eatanswill Gazette” in Pickwick, in response to the shafts of “The -Independent.” - -The following is the order:— - - “_U. S. Steam Frigate, Mississippi_, - “_At Sea, December 21st, 1852_. - -“GENERAL ORDER, NO. 1 - -“In promulgating the subjoined extract from the instructions addressed -to me by the honorable secretary of the navy, and bearing date 13th -ult., I have to enjoin upon all officers and other persons attached to -the vessels under my command, or in any other way connected with the -squadron, a most rigid adherence to all the requirements of said order. - -“Whatever notes or drawings may be prepared by the officers or other -persons before mentioned, whether by special order, or by their own -volition, will be endorsed by the respective parties, and transmitted -through the captain of the fleet to the commander-in-chief, who will -in due time lodge them at the navy department, from whence they may be -reclaimed as it may suit the convenience of the government. - -“All arms, curiosities, and specimens of natural history, are also -to become the property of the United States, unless voluntarily -relinquished by the commander-in-chief. - - “M. C. PERRY, - “_Commander of the U. S. Naval Forces_, - “_Stationed in the East India, China, and Japan Seas_.” - - -[EXTRACT.] - -“A subject of great importance to the success of the expedition, will -present itself to your mind in relation to communications to the prints -and newspapers, touching the movements of your squadron, as well as -in relation to all matters connected with the discipline and internal -regulations of the vessels composing it. You will therefore enjoin upon -all under your command to abstain from writing to friends and others -upon these subjects, the journals and private notes of the officers and -other persons in the expedition must be considered as belonging to the -government until permission be received from the navy department to -publish them.” - -The effect of this order was to cause officers to decline keeping -journals, and only note down their previous conceptions and present -impressions of things and places seen, in their letters to relatives. - -In 8° north of the equator we became becalmed, when the paddles were -put on and we steamed away about eight knots. Our drinking water -about this time showed a degree of _vitality_ which was not made more -agreeable by the fact that the naval regulations did not allow the -wearing of the mustache, even for straining purposes. - -About ten o’clock on the last night of ’52 there was a cry from the -poop-deck of “man overboard!” when the engines were stopped, and the -life-buoys suspended from either quarter of the ship were attempted to -be gotten away, but not going quickly, nor their matchlocks igniting -from some cause, gratings were hove overboard, lights sent up in -the mizzen-top, and a metallic boat, the 2d cutter, in which went -Lieutenant Webb, and Passed Midshipman K. R. Breese, was lowered and -went in search of the unfortunate man. There was much solicitude felt -for the poor fellow by those who stood on the poop peering into the -darkness astern, eager to hear the least sound that indicated the man -still afloat, but it was scarcely shown by the scene enacted during -the absence of the boat. Up came the commodore: “What’s the bearing -of that star?—Where did that man fall from?” _Voice_:—“Show the -Commodore where the man fell from!”—man goes over to port side—“Take -care of the paint!” “How does she head?” After a lapse of fifteen or -twenty minutes the boat was heard returning, when the following was -the hail:—“Mr. Webb?”—“Sir?”—“Have you got the buoy?”—“Yes, sir.”— -“Have you got that man?” _Answer_: “Yes, sir,” which was one of much -gratification, as every one regarded him as gone. The boat it appeared, -had passed him, and having given up the search, was returning, and -would have pulled over him, but for his being discovered in time by a -bow-oarsman. He was floating without effort on the surface, although -there was considerable sea on at the time. The poor fellow upon being -taken on board was found to have swallowed a great deal of water, and -it was thought that he might die from congestion of the lungs. He -had the antithetical name of Dry, and his mind being afterward found -affected, he was sent home in a merchant-ship from the Cape of Good -Hope. - -We crossed the equator on the 3d of January, in longitude 11° west, and -when the “sun came up on the left” on the morning of the 10th, right -ahead, perhaps in the very track of the Northumberland, looming sternly -up from out the ocean, like the dark high walls of an ocean-prison that -it is, we saw St. Helena. The tallest peak, that of Diana, is visible -in the clouds for a great distance. At mid-day we anchored in the -roadstead fronting James’ town, and shortly after saluted the flag of -England with twenty-one guns. At no time, during a cruise of two years -and over, did I hear any reverberation from our heavy pieces, half so -magnificent. The sound of each explosion, at first seemed to recoil -from the face of the immense rock which upreared itself in front, and -then as if gathering strength from the temporary rebuff, it broke, in -and up the wedge-shaped valley in which James’ town is situated, and -appearing for a moment to die away, again went on over gorge and peak, -tumbling, roaring, thundering in the distance, as if “Jura answered -through her misty shroud.” The salute was returned by one of the number -of forts that were looming away above us on the island. - -In shore of us lay a number of sharp rakish-looking little vessels, -slavers, that had been captured by the English cruisers, on the African -station, and brought to the island to be adjudged by a local court of -admiralty; better than our system where captor and prize have to return -frequently, great distances to the United States. - -The landing at St. Helena is made on a mole at one end of the small -beach that lies only immediately in front of James’ town. A few -minutes’ walk, and crossing a drawbridge, over a moat, you pass through -an embattled wall, from which some iron pieces frown down on you, by a -lofty gate, at which sentinels are always posted. On getting inside, -a triangular street made of rolled gravel is before you. On the left -are the guard quarters, the governor’s house and offices, and a public -garden; on the right a church, hotel, and the ascent to Ladder hill, -where is situated the highest fort of the place, reached by six hundred -and twenty-five steps. Right before you, running from the apex of the -triangle, is the road which leads to the spot which has made St. -Helena famous, and England infamous for ever. As you ascend this road, -you may look down on the settlements of the Chinese who have left the -flowery kingdom to dwell in this place of isolation and desolation; -also see the fine English soldier as he is being closely drilled from -company to battalion, not by duke of Cambridge, or Earl Cardigan, all -of whose bravery will not make up for want of tactical knowledge, but -by sergeants. - -Our stay at the island was to be only until we could get coal enough -aboard to take us to Cape Town, and so on the following morning I -started for Longwood and the now vacant tomb of Napoleon. I was not -aware when I started on foot, that I had to walk a distance before -returning to the town, of nine miles, and that too over a road of -lava formation, and under the burning rays of a vertical sun. The -ascent, at the first, is very great. Much fagged on reaching the summit -point I sat down to rest, and surveyed the scene around. Near me on a -road-stone, his bridleless and heavily-ladened little donkey cropping -thistles not far off, in his parti-colored dress sat a Lascar quietly -discussing his cigar. On the stone which he occupied, I read “1124 -distance: 1180 feet elevation.” The road in the direction in which I -was going was shut in by clumps of brushwood and some scrubby pines, -above which, far away—its ragged top currying away the bottoms of the -southeast trade-clouds which, blowing continually over the island, -ever and anon drop their genial drops on the arid earth beneath—rose -Diana’s peak hundreds of feet in air. But the view looking seaward: Sir -Joshua Reynolds said that the horizon-line of the great and wide sea in -mid-deep is one of the most striking emblems of the infinite and the -eternal to be found in all the works of the Almighty. This idea, of -all other places, arises in the mind when gazing from the eminences of -St. Helena; but then, as you look upon “the sea here, the sea there, -the sea all around,”—contrasted with the vast expanse, how small in -the imagination becomes the spot on which you stand, and how coffined -before death, must have felt the great spirit, to whom all Europe was -once a theatre,—_qui fait le tour du monde_! - -From where I sat, I could see in the gorge beneath, very plainly, the -“Briers,” the home and habitation of Napoleon until Longwood could be -gotten ready for his reception. It is situated behind a naked, stony -hill, and must have been a warm abode, but Napoleon liked it for its -quaintness and solitude; preferring it to better houses in the town, -where privacy would have been impossible. The place is enclosed by low -walls and rows of the prickly pear. On resuming my tramp, I passed some -swarthy-featured, black-haired, fine-formed young women, barefooted, -and lightly clad, carrying bundles of twigs on their heads, with which -they walked, with apparently perfect indifference, notwithstanding the -steepness of road and the intense rays of the sun. I soon reached and -went by an old cottage in decay, a rusty signal-gun, a wayside inn -with an embowered doorway, and then passing through a lane of trees, -I entered upon a level road, which, in the space of three quarters of -a mile, turned in crescent to the left. Some distance below, within -this crescent, a lot of fir, cypress, and other trees, with grassy -sod, terminated a small valley which commenced in desolation from the -seaside. This spot was enclosed by a low, straggling fence, having -a kind of sentry-box at its gate, and contains the vacant tomb of -Napoleon. I descended to the place, paid the shilling entrance required -of me, and entered the enclosure. The willow-tree which so invariably -figured in all drawings of the spot, is now gone. The grave is enclosed -by a plain iron railing, and, when I saw it, covered over with an -awning. Its present appearance is that of the strong foundation of an -elongated old spring-house, lined with cement. It is eight feet deep, -having at the bottom a small recess sunk below the general level, which -received the coffin, and about five feet wide. Desirous of getting the -exact measurement of so much greatness, one of our party stretched -himself at full length in this lower deep, but its chilliness soon -made him have as little desire to continue there, as the old hero of -New Orleans had to repose after death in the sarcophagus of one of -the Cæsars, which the very considerate kindness of a commodore had -brought for him. The whole surface of the plastering down in the tomb -is covered with scarcely-legible names, or petty ambition’s trashy -verses. The same very limited aspiration is to be seen in the pages -of a register kept at the place, where the national animosities of -visiting-strangers play shuttlecock and battledore. The obstinate and -collected Englishman repeats the commonplace of Sir Walter Scott, in -wishing you to behold the spot which held him for whom the earth was -once too small, or ethically informs you, that one life being taken -constitutes murder, but that of thousands makes a hero; then comes -the mercurial Frenchman, who, after relieving himself by a great big -“_sacre_” on the English nation generally and the island jailer in -particular, says Napoleon is avenged, for Hudson Lowe “_est mort_;” or -breaks out with “_J’ai vu: J’ai maudit!_” Next comes that peripatetic -philosopher, Jonathan, who, smacking as usual of the shop, furnishes -the edifying information that he belongs to the “Mary Brown, of New -Bedford, has bin out over two years, and hain’t got but four hundred -barrils of oil; hopes to be to ‘hum’ soon; and stopping at the island, -has just come out to see Boney’s tomb!” - -When the tomb contained the body of the great emperor, it was filled -to within one foot of the surface, with earth, and covered in mound -form with cement. The three slabs that closed the grave, were taken -from the kitchen hearth of the Longwood jail. A _cicerone_, in the -person of a gray-haired old negro woman, who saw both the interment and -the exhumation of the remains of Napoleon, tells you in an Ethiopic -vernacular, of the incidents of the spot; after enumerating the number -of coffins in which the body was placed, she said, “Dare, sir, laid -his head, and here was his feet.”—“He always used to drink at dat dare -spring, dare.”—“I’s seen him many a time come down dat hill dare wid -his snuff-box and one of General Bertram’s children.”—“When he used -to stop still, he’d do jest so”—folding her arms. She was also quite -minute in her mention of the “Prince de Jonnyville” in the “Belpooly.” - -The spot was pointed out to me where Bertrand, Gourgaud, Las Casas, -and Marchand, erected the tent to put the body under after exhumation, -which took place amid wind and rain. All around the tomb was wet and -miry; in times of heavy rains, now, the tomb is not unfrequently filled -with water. The work of disinterment was begun after midnight, and by -seven o’clock in the morning the stones that closed the lower vault -were raised. The anvil employed by the men engaged upon the work to -keep their tools in order, sank at every blow, and the men were ankle -deep in mud. I have nothing pathetic or philosophic to add, upon the -spot; - - “Si ta tombe est vide Napoleon? - Ton nom ne remplit il pas l’universe.” - -Ascending the hill on the other side, by a winding path which led up -through a pretty garden, I stopped at the little residence of “Hutt’s -gate,” formerly occupied by General Bertrand, with his family, previous -to moving out to the building in the vicinity of Longwood. After -resting here, I footed it a mile further, to the outer entrance to the -grounds of Longwood. The prospect before me during this walk was of the -dreariest and most desolate kind, presenting the most marked contrast -to the verdure at the tomb. It was along this road that Napoleon walked -to his favorite spring, and over which his Chinese coolies carried his -water from it. After passing a dilapidated wall and gate, you enter -upon a lawn of some hundred yards, on one side of which are straggling -fir-trees, bent down in the same direction by the continual pressure -of the southeast trade-winds, which are felt at this part of the -island very strongly, and the other side was hedged by a long row of -the stately aloe. In a few minutes you are in front of a dilapidated -low building, with a small verandah in front of one of its wings, and -partly enclosed in an old stone wall. This is Longwood as it now is. -When I reached it, the place looked abandoned in the extreme, with the -exception of the cows and a scrawny donkey that browsed around, or a -solitary turkey who broke the silence with his gobble. There was the -decayed and silent guard-house and signal-tower, its halyards rotted -away and pole tottering, from which the restless bunting was for ever -telling by day to the sedulous jailer at “Plantation House” how his -great prisoner at Longwood, after the mental exhaustion of dictation, -or the fatigues of a morning walk, now slept, or that, having slept, he -was now feeding his pet fishes in the little pond in the rear of his -cell abode. This quiet was soon broken; a dirty-faced, uncombed-haired -English girl approached, and informed us that the fee for admission -to the house was two shillings—Longwood, like the grounds around the -tomb, being leased by the government to others, for the purpose of -speculating on the interest of association connected with the great -emperor. If we are the “dollar people,” can any man who has ever -visited English domain say, that they are not entitled to the name of -“shilling nation!” - -The first room you enter on going into the house, is the one in which, -amid storm and rain, and when - - “Far along, - From peak to peak, the rattling crags among, - Leapt the live thunder,” - -its booming reaching the now drowsy ear which was once attuned to the -roar of cannon on a hundred fields, with the ejaculation of “_tête -d’armée_” on his nearly motionless lips, died Napoleon. The head of -his bed rested against the sill of a window, from underneath which -the French have removed the stone, and placed it in the Hospital des -Invalides as a precious relic. Through the sashless opening, the sun -now streams in on the floor of a room occupied by a thrashing-machine, -and with a manger overhead; while the room in which he mostly slept, -and ate, and read, is now paved with cobble-stones, and filled with -horse-stalls. The fish-pond is dry, and the grave of his favorite horse -you can not find. - -Just across the road I visited the new house of Longwood, its walls -sound, its porticoes and floors in a perfect state of preservation, and -its spacious rooms unoccupied. Napoleon visited it once, but feeling -that one jail was no less one for being better built than another, -spurned this offer of the English to conciliate him in his cage, as the -lion spurns the leavings of the jackal though he die in his den. - -On my way back to James’ town, I passed in sight of the grounds and -former mansion of - - “The paltry jailer and the prying spy”— - -“Plantation house”—but had no desire to visit it. - -At James’ town there is a very fine bust of Napoleon, said to have -been made from a plaster cast of the face, taken after death; the -nose is much more exquisitely chiselled and beautiful than any other -representation to be seen of his face. - -Before nightfall on the 11th of January, we were under way for the Cape -of Good Hope from St. Helena. - - “The fleets that sweep before the eastern blast, - Shall hear their sea-boys hail it from the mast; - When Victory’s Gallic column shall but rise, - Like Pompey’s pillar, in a desert’s skies, - The rocky isle, that holds, or held his dust, - Shall crown the Atlantic like the hero’s bust.” - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - -We reached Cape Town after a run of thirteen days. On the morning of -the 24th of January we made the long, low sandhills in the vicinity -of Saldanha bay, South Africa, and continuing our run in sight of -the coast during the day, anchored after nightfall, with bright -moonlight around, in Table bay. We encountered the whole way a strong -head wind and sea, and at one time doubted whether our coal would be -sufficient to enable us to reach our port. The men were exercised at -target practice, with pistol and musket. On the 15th, the sun being -_vertical_, the friendly wish “May your _shadow_ never be less,” would -have been superfluous, as on that day the thing was impossible. As we -neared the guano islands, lying off the harbor, we were surrounded -by booby-birds and sea-gulls innumerable; the “albatross” also “did -cross,” and very large birds they were. - -Cape Town, from the water, looks like a long, low, yellow -fortification. Its population is about thirty thousand, made up of -the representatives of nearly every nation. It was captured from the -Dutch by the English in 1806. Being the great stopping-place for -vessels bound round the Cape of Good Hope, or returning from Australia -and the East Indies, the occupations of the inhabitants are mostly -mercantile. The streets are wide and well laid out. They have a -number of fine churches, a botanical garden, and quite an extensive -library. High behind the town, flanked on either side by the conical -hills of the “Lion’s Rump” and “Devil’s hill,” rises that remarkable -formation, which is visible a great distance from the sea, called -_Table Mountain_, four thousand feet high, and level on the top. The -weather is nearly always unsettled, but a blow may be expected when the -inhabitants remind you that the “cloth is spread” on Table mountain, -which is suddenly covered with a thick white cloud, which curls over -the steep face of the mountain, and extends itself down it, as a deep -snow from the roof of a house when the melting begins. When this -continues, the ships in the harbor, which is a very unsafe one, look -to their moorings, and are frequently driven ashore. The day after our -arrival we were compelled to change our berth: the old Mississippi -reared and plunged at her anchors like an impatient steed endeavoring -to slip his rein, and at night the royal mail steamer Bosphorus -broke from her moorings and went ashore. We were unable to go to her -assistance because the weather had prevented our getting any coal -aboard. - -[Illustration: _LITH. OF SARONY & Co. NEW YORK._ - CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.] - -As your boat approaches the mole, you pass through large flocks of the -black gull and cormorant, and nearer the shore, groups of the pelican -are feeding. Should a southeast wind prevail when you reach the wharf, -you will scarcely be able to see the place. Dense clouds, not of dust, -but of coarse red sand, fill the streets, and are borne in fitful -eddies around the corners. It fills your eyes, if you are so rash as to -open them but for a second, your ears, nostrils, and insinuates itself -underneath every garment that you wear; you are doing the penance of -walking with gravel under your sock, although sandal-shoon be on. -The male residents who move about wear veils attached to their hats, -but to a stranger the annoyance is horrible. During the prevalence -of this wind, the houses are closed as well as they may be, but it -is insufficient to keep out the plague. In the parlor-windows of an -English hotel at which I dined, the dust had accumulated in a morning -to the thickness of velvet, and from the front of the house I saw a -Hottentot servant removing the sand piled on the pavement, as we would -a small snow-drift in our own country. - -But when you can open your eyes, strange-looking people and strange -things meet them. At the hotel, you were waited upon by Bengalese -servants, with their fantastically-wound turbans of cashmere nearly the -size of a market-basket, their blue gowns reaching to the knee, tied -with red riband in front, making their waist appear just under their -arms, and moving so stealthily with their bare feet, as they came and -went, that you were not conscious of their presence. In the streets -you see the high-cheeked-bone Malay, the emaciated-looking cooley, and -the red-capped, half-naked, simial-faced Hottentot, whom the mistaken -philanthropy of English law has removed from the authority of the -Dutch boor, that they may go lower in the scale of humanity. By you -wheels some lately-arrived cockney in one of the patent safety cabs -from London, the driver perched behind, and slowly following comes a -lumbering wagon, its tents covering some large casks, it may be, drawn -by sixteen or eighteen yoke of the enormous horned oxen of this colony, -who are ever reminded of the proximity of their Hottentot driver, by -his unceasing guttural calls and the continual application of his -immense whip, whose lash, after being whirled in air an instant, he can -cause to descend with unfailing accuracy on the back of any particular -ox in his team, though he be a leader. In the windows of the stores you -notice the graceful feathers of the ostrich, and its eggs; elephants’ -tusks, and those too of the wild boar left in the skull; and the skins -of the leopard and lion, remind you that you are where “Afric’s sunny,” -&c. Innumerable jargons salute your ear as you move about. - -On a bright Saturday morning, a Malay, with a good coach and four very -good horses, drove a party of us out to Constantia, famous for the -making of the celebrated wine of that name. The distance from town is -about nine miles, and the road a very good one. You pass through long -rows of the pine-tree, which I saw planted for ornamental effect for -the first time, and here and there you see the native silver-tree, its -bright leaves glistening prettily in the sun. The residences on the -route are very cosy-looking, and much taste is displayed in laying off -the approaches to them. A house not long before occupied by Sir Harry -Smith, while governor of the colony, was a very attractive place. - -The proprietors of the wine-producing establishments are very polite -in their receptions and show you over their places with pleasure. -We visited their brightly white-washed and steep-thatched roofed -wine-houses, in whose extended walls were seen the huge wine butts like -those of Madeira, but filled with the thicker-bodied and sweeter Pontac -and Frontenac. The wine-house of Mr. Cloete has on its front quite a -well-executed bacchanalian scene in _basso-relievo_, and was erected in -1793. The roofs of their houses are steep and smoothly thatched, which -covering is said to last for forty years, without the accident of fire, -of which they are very careful. The decorations of their grounds are -tasty, and the sire, bending outward the limbs of the oak when young, -leaves a canopied place for table and chairs in the centre of its -branches, for the son. - -The mode of cultivating the grape for the production of wine at -Constantia is peculiar. They use no arbor for the support of the -vines, but sustain them, a small distance from the ground, with sticks. -When the fruit has reached maturity, the leaves are cut away to permit -its being reached by the rays of the sun, and is only plucked for -pressing when it has become nearly as sweet as a raisin; hence the -taste of the wine, its high value, and its body. - -During our stay at Cape Town, the Kaffir war still continued, and on -our way back from Constantia, we drove to the little settlement of -Wynberg to take a look at the captive Kaffir chief Seyolo, whom the -English had confined in the prison at that place. We found the prisoner -in a small cell, a stalwart woolly-headed negro, not of the darkest -complexion, standing six feet one and three quarters inches high. His -dress consisted of a lit cigar, and a single blanket thrown round his -person. His wife, Niomese, with a good countenance and very small hands -and feet, was with him. In an adjoining cell was his chief counsellor -and his wife. They appeared quite cheerful and decidedly lazy. When -the unintelligent face and elongated heel of Seyolo, was considered, -it was a matter of surprise, how such a creature could have exercised -with any force the power of command, or displayed any strategic skill -to the annoyance of the English; but it was said that he had not been -anything like as troublesome to the colonists as a withered-legged -Kaffir chief named Sandilli, who having been once taken and turned -out on his parole, would be shot in obedience to the sentence of -a drum-head courtmartial, if again captured. The accounts from the -seat of hostilities, during the time we lay at Cape Town were very -unpropitious, owing to the severe fatigue and exhaustion which the -hale hearty soldiers in their illy-adapted uniform, were compelled to -undergo in bush-fighting or climbing steep places in pursuit of the -alert and fleet-footed Kaffir, while with the best protection that -could be extended to the kraals of the settlers, their cattle were -continually being driven off by the thieving enemy. - -A stroll through the botanical garden remunerates one very well. The -exotics are rare and tastefully displayed, while the Fuchias and the -Cape Jasmin laden the air with sweet perfume. The wheat of the colony -is ground in steam-mills situated in the midst of the city. - -Having had the good fortune to have such weather as we could coal ship -in, and also employed carpenters to build frames for the protection -of our fire-room hatches, against the water which might extinguish -our fires, should we have the misfortune to undergo one of the severe -gales that are so frequently met with in the ocean which we had to -traverse before reaching our next port, we sent our letter-bag to a -merchant-ship bound to Boston, raised anchor on the 3d of February, and -steamed away out, passing the Lion’s Rump, False Bay, and Cape Hanglip, -bound to the Isle of France, or as now called, the Mauritius. On -getting a short distance from the place we encountered a mountainous, -foamless swell, which did not break, but rolled up to a very great -height with regularity. Our ship was sluggish in the extreme, and when -we slid slowly down into the trough of the sea, the wave before and -behind us was apparently as high as our mizzen top. The colors of a -ship hoisted at her mizzen peak, but only a short way off, at times, -were entirely shut in from our view by the swell. If this sea had -only broken it would have proved the propriety of the old Dutch name -for the cape—“the Stormy cape.” In rounding the cape the fate of the -unfortunate “Birkenhead,” an English transport steamer, lost off it -some years ago by running on a sunken rock, came to mind; and we also -thought of the collected bravery of the large number of troops on board -of her. It is one thing to face death from the belching mouth of cannon -or the deadly rifle, for then a man is hurried on by the clangor and -excitement of the strife, and moves under the illusory belief that -makes more than half the soldiers of the world, that somebody else may -be killed, but that he will not. But what is to be said in praise of -the placid courage of the poor soldiers on the Birkenhead, who, with -death inevitable, not amid “the sulphurous canopy,” but death from the -yawning wave _facing them_, yet fell into rank at the roll of drum, as -if on a dress-parade, and sank into the yesty deep with the engulfed -vessel, patterns of discipline and martyrs to duty. - -We ran to the eastward for some days for the purpose of getting a -favorable wind and then headed northward for our port. The weather -continued rough and disagreeable. The anti-scorbutic notions of the -commander-in-chief—although we were not a sailing vessel liable to -be out of port for any considerable length of time, but a steamer -whose necessity for coal would require short runs, caused to be put on -board of us before leaving Cape Town, twelve of the large, wide horned -cape-bullocks, and a number of the cape-sheep with tails as wide as a -dinner plate. The stalls of the larger cattle were on the forecastle -and on the quarter-deck, tied up to the halyard racks. When the ship -rolled heavily, the noise of these poor animals endeavoring to conform -to her movement, or disturbed by the men in getting at the ropes which -their large horns covered, and their continued tramping over the heads -of those below deck, was of course increasing the comfort of shipboard -hugely. Then during a rough night although cleats had been nailed on -the deck to steady them, some steer would tumble down and dislocate his -thigh, requiring the butcher’s axe to despatch him next morning. On the -port side of the “quarter-deck,” y’clepted, I believe, in the time of -Drake, the “king’s walk,” the impromptu bleating of the sheep from a -fold made by lashing oars from the breach of one gun to another, was -quite mellifluous. - -If the necessity had arisen of fighting the ship, overboard would -have to go the beef-cattle: if the ship had been required to salute -a superior command met on the sea, the orders would have been given, -perhaps, as follows: “Starboard (look out for the bull) fire!” “Port -(you’ll get kicked) fire!” “Starboard (don’t hurt those sheep) fire!” -&c. The efficiency of the ship for war purposes was seriously impaired, -if not destroyed, during their presence. - -Two days from port, the anti-scurvy idea still predominant, punch made -with ship’s whiskey and lime juice, was served out to the crew, but -many an old shell-back as he took his tot, looked as if he would have -preferred the ardent minus the other ingredients. - -On the 14th of February we discovered a tant vessel to the windward of -us. It proved to be a steamer under sail alone, her engines out of gear -and dragging her wheels. She stood down in our direction as if desirous -of speaking us, and many expressed much surprise at our not stopping, -but all at once we had stopped, and the stranger shot across our -stern. In answer to the hail, “What ship is that?” the reply was: “Her -majesty’s steamer Styx, bound to the Mauritius; please report us under -sail.” Our stopping was involuntary, a screw of one of the “cut-offs” -to our engines having come out, which was promptly fixed with a block -of wood by one of the admirable engineers which it was the good fortune -of the Mississippi to have; so that we were ready to go ahead again in -a very few minutes. The Englishman, no doubt, was none the wiser for -the belief that we stopped in courtesy to him. - -The weather just before reaching Mauritius was much smoother than it -had been; the sun now came up upon the right, and his going down in the -Indian ocean at night, was a sight most beautiful to look upon, its -whole bosom bathed in fiery floods, and way above, tower above tower, -rose in radiance and glory illuminated clouds. When our band’s best -strains were filling the ship at evening and these sights preceded -night, we could hardly realize that we were in the Indian ocean—the -ocean of squalls, calms, heavy rains, gale, storm, and hurricane. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - -About 11 o’clock on our fifteenth morning out from the Cape of Good -Hope, the southwestern end of the island of Mauritius was visible -from the masthead, and we put on all our furnaces so as to reach -Port Louis before night. On approaching the land we ran for two -hours, past highly-tilled fields encompassing the cosy houses of the -planters, sloping to the water’s edge in living green. As we neared -the small crescent on which is built the little town of Port Louis, we -were boarded by two English harbor-masters, who conducted us to our -anchorage, and assisted in mooring the ship head and stern, as the -place is too contracted for a vessel of any size to swing in. Their -costume showed the philosophy which John Bull always carries into -torrid temperatures. They were dressed in white linen roundabouts, -pants and shoes, and on their heads were wide-brimmed hats, made of the -pith of a tree and covered with white. We had gotten the ship secured -just about the time a gun from one of the forts nigh us, announced -the hour to be 8 o’clock. I sat upon the wheel-house looking at the -necklace of lights that marked the town; the moon as if moved by the -notes of our band which was playing delightfully “Katy Darling,” and -the “Old Folks at Home,” seemed to rise more rapidly, and as it came it -displayed the lofty outline of Peter Botte mountain, of Penny Magazine -memory; the tall palms that fringed the beach on the right looked more -stately and graceful in the silver light, and the scene altogether was -so enchanting, that no one who looked upon it, could keep from feeling -Bernardin-St.-Pierreish. - -At daylight next morning we got a look at Port Louis. The town is not -extensive, though nestling prettily under tall volcanic hills. Its -suburbs are composed of the red-roofed huts of liberated Africans, -making long streets. In its bazar, like nearly all places in that -portion of the globe, your attention is first arrested by the -grotesque—the kaleidoscope of costume. Of course your ubiquitous -pig-tail friend “John Chinaman” is present. Here he attires himself in -dark nankeen clothes, wears his clumsy shoe without sock, twists his -plaited queue under a Manilla hat, and with his Paul Pry umbrella which -he seldom hoists, looks as much like another “John Chinaman” who passes -him, as two bricks in a house. You see the Arab with his head entirely -shorn, or the dark-haired Lascar most diminutive in loin wardrobe, -but gaudy in the vest that covers his fine-formed chest; the Parsee -clothed in his gown of white muslin, his turban and pointed shoes; the -Malayan women in very brief attire, their children strapped on their -backs, sitting on the wayside, chewing the areca-nut or the betel-leaf -that they may spit blood-red saliva, and none the better looking for -having a large ring fastened through the skin of their foreheads, or -hanging from one nostril. These people are all very graceful in their -movements. Their religions are comprised in Mohammedanism, Buddhism, -Hindoo, &c. They number some six thousand of the population of the -place. - -I had a pleasant drive into the country, over fine English roads, -Macadamized with volcanic stone by chain gangs. Our fancy-turbaned -Lascar driver kept up the while a noise like that of our -swamp-sparrows, to encourage his horses. We saw the large fields of -sugar-cane, rustling in their deep green, with here and there the -tall white chimneys of a sugar-house, or the painted roofs of the -chateaus of the Creole, who live very luxuriously, rising in the -midst of the promising crops, whose aggregate yield it was thought -would be one hundred and sixty millions of pounds of sugar. The -foliage that encroaches on the roadside with its luxuriance, or -stretches way back to the base of the steep volcanic hills in sight, -says “Tropical, tropical;” “the acacia waves her yellow hair,” you -have the wide-spreading banyan, the tall rough barked cocoa, the -cabbage-tree—its branches interlocked, the banana, the plantain, the -ever-graceful palm,— each one of its leaves large enough to make a -fan; and then too the traveller’s tree, which on being tapped, affords -the weary and athirst a substitute for water. Underneath this mass of -rank green, you notice the straight-stemmed aloe with its graceful -top-knot, and in the hedges that porcupine plant, the cactus, whose -prickly leaf and long thorn, prevent the hump-backed, or Hindoo cattle -of the country from getting in the fields of green cane. Then the -birds are beautiful to see: the pure white boatswain, the noisy little -paroquet, the black frigate bird, and the pretty little cardinal with -his feather cowl. - -The morning scene along the roads is at all times animated. With his -proverbial industry, in rope-harness, one John Chinaman is pulling and -another John Chinaman is pushing, heavy burdens in a small wagon; or, -footing it in a trot to the town, with his bamboo-baskets strapped -on shoulder, goes the chicken-merchant with his juvenile Shanghaes. -Walking past you in groups, their hands clasped one with another, or -stretched on their back, the rays of the sun kept off by the shady -branches of the palm, or sitting under a roof made of its leaves, -having his head shaved, or the hairs of his moustache plucked out here -and there, to make the outline more graceful, is the semi-denuded and -meat-hating Lascar. - -This is a very small picture. - -I visited the village of “_Pamplemouses_,” where is situated the -church—as the delightful story, hath it —in which worshipped the -mother of Paul and the mother of Virginia. Not far from this building, -in the grounds of a resident, placed on either side of an artificial -lake containing red and gold fish, are two square cemented pedestals, -surmounted by rude urns, entirely overgrown with the pretty “Pride -of Barbadoes.” These are the tombs of Paul and Virginia—so said the -good old lady who accompanied us to the sentimental spot, and called -our attention to the fact that they were drowned, when these cocoa, -palm, and camphor trees around, were not so large as now. Mauritius -being an English colony, of course we paid a shilling. Some sentimental -Laura Matilda perhaps “in tears and white muslin,” has striven for -affectionate immortality, by writing on the tomb of Virginia, in a -rather masculine hand, her name; and also lets admiring gazers know, -that when she is “to hum,” she is in Massachusetts. - -Next you have a view of Tomb Bay, where the young unfortunate went to -her death by shipwreck, and after thinking about the height of the -breakers, and the hardness of the coral reef, you soothe the fervid -mood by a stroll through one of the most attractive botanical gardens -that the whole East presents. The sun poured down his hottest rays, -but the lofty and strange trees that meet above your head, as a Gothic -archway, afford shade, and the great moisture produced under foot, by -this exclusion of the sun, brings up a thick green moss, so you walk -on a thick velvet carpet, while on both sides of you, rivulets of clear -water run gurgling all the time. Whether there was ever such people as -the two little loving recipients of morality, Paul and Virginia, or -not, or that the Saint Giran was ever wrecked, it is a beautiful spot -apart from the story. - -But there is reality as well as romance in the Isle of France; the -present owner, John Bull, supplies it. On the iron gateway under -which you pass, in landing, is “Victoria Regina,” and Victoria Regina -levies heavy taxes on the planters. A walk on the esplanade shows you -a fence of half-buried cannon—the trophies of the English when they -captured the island from the French. In front of the house of the -governor, who gets ten thousand dollars more salary than our president, -red-coats continually mount guard. Policemen throng the streets in the -same uniform I saw in Canada, and in the barrack is quartered a fine -regiment of fusiliers to keep the people in subjection. - -The island, like others in the Indian ocean, has suffered from -hurricanes; the cane may be most promising in the field, but destroyed -before garnered. The most violent hurricane they ever had, piled three -hundred houses of Port Louis in ruins, and stranded thirty ships in its -harbor. - -The Portuguese, the discoverers of the island, called it Cerni; the -Dutch who came afterward, “Mauritius,” after Prince Maurice of Holland; -and the French, Isle of France. In the Champ de Mars, a fine open -plain, where the regimental bands play, the troops drill, and the -pretty Creole women take their evening drives and promenades, I noticed -a very tasteful tomb of a French governor, Malartie, which was finished -by the munificence of Sir William Gomm, an English governor. - -Four days after our arrival, being the anniversary of the birthday of -the Father of our Country, our ship was appropriately dressed with -our national ensign, and at mid-day we fired a salute of twenty-one -guns, in which the English man-of-war, the “Styx,” which had reached -port, would have joined us, but an order from the admiralty forbids -the firing of salutes by their national vessels unless their battery -reaches a certain number of guns. - -We reached Mauritius just in time to enjoy its pleasant fruits, -consisting of the pine-apple, the banana, the plantain, the mangoe, and -the alligator pear, which could be plentifully obtained from the fruit -boats that flocked around the ship; and then, too, before breakfast, we -drained the cocoa’s milky bowl. - -With a pleasant remembrance of the hospitalities received from the -people of Mauritius, we left Port Louis for Point de Galle, on the 25th -of February. - -We had a run before us of two thousand five hundred miles, and expected -in the stormy ocean we had to traverse, to meet with rough weather -on the passage, perhaps one of those dreaded typhoons; and that its -approach might be indicated at the earliest possible moment, our -barometer had been compared with the standard one in the observatory -at Mauritius, whose able and persevering superintendent is devoting -himself to the advance of meteorological information in that quarter -of the globe, and the increase of nautical science, like our own -Maury. His name is Bosquet, and, at the time of our visit, he was -preparing a moveable index card, showing the various quadrants of a -revolving gale or cyclone, which must prove of great benefit to the -practical navigator in those seas. We had a smooth sea during the run, -hot weather, and a light head wind. When General Pierce was taking -the oath of office, on the 4th of March, our nine o’clock lights were -extinguished. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - -About nine o’clock of the night of the 10th of March, the lookout in -the top sang out, “Light, ho!” which we knew must be on the island -of Ceylon. The entrance to the harbor of Point de Galle, being quite -narrow, we endeavored to get such soundings as would enable us to come -to anchor until daybreak, but not succeeding in this, the ship’s head -was put off shore, and we lay-to for the night. - -That most ancient and quasi-veracious traveller, Sir John Mandeville, -who had great injustice wrought him by the wits of his day, I think it -was, who, in speaking of the approach to Ceylon said, that the spicy -odor therefrom could be smelt long before “the land thereof might be -discerned from the tallest masthead of a ship.” If this be true, Sir -John, great changes have taken place in these latter days. We did -not detect anything unusually odoriferous in the atmosphere; and I -subsequently found that one might walk through a cinnamon grove without -being attracted by the scent, as the cinnamon proper is hermetically -sealed by a kind of epidermis bark, which has to be removed before -it is gotten at. The nutmeg, with the mace around it, at first of a -deep-red color, is enveloped in a covering as thick as the enclosure of -the stone of the apricot, and on the tree resembles this fruit before -ripening. The “spicy breezes” blow very “softly o’er Ceylon’s isle.” - -[Illustration: _LITH. OF SARONY & Co. NEW YORK._ - CEYLON.] - -The next morning, having gotten a pilot, we ran into the harbor of -Point de Galle, which is a very contracted one, though quite secure, -surrounded by groves of the tall cocoa-tree, which nearly conceal the -town. The town, built by the Portuguese, is entirely walled in and -fortified; and since its capture by the English its defences have been -increased. It occupies a space equal in extent to Fortress Monroe, and -was garrisoned by a native rifle regiment, with English officers, and -a small number of royal artillery. These Ceylonese troops are said -to show a ferocity of courage when in battle, and the arms of their -light-complexioned commanders frequently have to be resorted to, to -make them cease firing when the order is given. Point de Galle is now -one of the stopping-places for the peninsula and oriental mail steamers -_en route_ to China, and the isthmus of Suez. There are two other ports -on the island: that of Colombo, celebrated for its pearl-fisheries and -white elephants, and that of Trincomalee, from which a great quantity -of the teak-wood is brought. - -We had scarcely anchored when the ship was surrounded by native canoes, -called d’honies, which, at a little distance, resemble planks edgewise -upon the water, fifteen or twenty feet in length. They are hollowed -out of logs so narrow, that the paddling occupant usually keeps one -leg dangling over the side. To prevent their capsizing, a solid log, -much less in size and length, pointed at both ends, is placed about ten -feet off and parallel with the boat. This is connected with the boat -by arched bamboo poles, and forms an out-rigger. A paddle propels them -very easily, and they sail quite fast. - -These boats were filled with Indiamen and Ceylonese, who would have -been dressed if they had only had some garment from the slice of cotton -about the loin, up to their neck or down to the heel. In a short time -our decks were filled with them; also Mussulmen and Arabs, with their -small oval caps and vests, exposing breast and arms, and others wearing -kerchiefs of all manner of gaudy colors wrapped about them and hanging -to the knees like a skirt. But the thing that strikes you with the most -singularity is, that the men whose heads are not shaved, wear their -hair in a knot like women, secured to the back of the head with a large -tortoise-shell comb. These fellows “salam” you, and their salutation -is extremely servile. Some of them come for your clothes—they are -washermen, and return your garments with remarkable quickness for the -East. Others pull out of their kummerbunds at the waist a lot of what -they call precious stones, and say, “Wantshee, me have got good mooney -stones—star stones, ruby, cat’s-eye stone, sapphire,” &c. - - “Where every prospect pleases, - And only man is vile!” - -The “prospect” of being cheated is not a pleasant one at any time; and -these men are very “vile.” The fellow will hold the precious jewel to -the light, and in the dark, vary its position, rub it, and praise it -with great earnestness and sincerity, but should you be verdant enough -to purchase the gem, even at half the estimate set upon it by him of -the land of Golconda, an ordinary rat-tail file will very soon assure -you that you have got a fine specimen of cut-glass. The genuine, or -precious stones, are bought up by agents and sent to London. Should -their sales grow very slack they are most desirous of trading for any -old clothes you may have—oriental and old clothes! - -I landed as soon as I could, after our salute, on the jutty, from which -Mr. Barnum’s elephants had been shipped, and passing through a walled -gate, entered the town, the sun shining down fiercely. The houses were -of a yellow stucco, very low, without glass in the windows, generally, -and their doors concealed behind mat screens. In my stroll in the -direction of a fine new lighthouse, terminating a picturesque point -where the sea continually breaks sullenly, my attention was attracted -by a very long, notched white flag, with a number of smaller ones on -the sides, hanging from a tall mast. On going toward it, I found it -was placed at the entrance of a walled enclosure, which contained a -mosque and Mussulman school. Fronting the door of the mosque was a pool -of not the clearest water, enclosed in handsome masonry. While I stood -there, many of the devout, among whom I saw a blind man, came in and -washed their hands and face, to say nothing of abluting their dentals, -previous to proceeding to their devotions inside the building; while -in the interior were a number kneeling on mats, then sitting back on -their bare feet, the palms of the hands meanwhile resting on the knees, -occasionally striking their forehead against the tesselated floor, -facing in the direction of Mecca. Their pointed, clog-like sandals -they had left outside. I was told I could enter if I would remove my -pedal covering, but I declined. Removing one’s boots after a long walk, -in a temperature of ninety odd, is not exactly the thing. I asked, -quizzically, a long-bearded old Mussulman standing by, who understood -English, whether he had any idols in his temple. He replied quickly: -“No; there is but one God: we worshipped your Savior and turned our -faces to Jerusalem, until Mahomet _our_ Savior came—now we turn our -faces to Mecca.” Pointing to a Hindoo temple, he remarked: “They have -idols over there, but we are not allowed even to eat or drink anything -when we are near these buildings.” - -In a low stone edifice adjacent to this mosque I glanced in at a -school, where fifteen or twenty infantile scholars of both sexes whose -wardrobe complete consisted of ankle, waist, and wrist rings, and -pendent little silver ornaments, squatted on mats. In their midst, -_a la_ Turk, sat a shaven-headed, long-bearded Mussulman, chewing -the betel-leaf and areca-nut, and uplifting at intervals the rod of -correction, which was more effective than the ferula of the Christian, -owing to the scanty costume of the juvenile recipients of Mohammedan -morality. The scholars were engaged in writing with bamboo pens, on -boards covered with a clay preparation, passages from the Koran, -which was lying open upon a little stand in front of the red-saliva -pedagogue. When he turned a leaf of his sacred book, he did it with -a portion of his white garment, never touching the page with the -naked hand. It appeared to be a free jabber on the part of the tender -nudes, in Arabic, but if a sentence was missed by one, down came the -Damocletian ratan, and the humanity of breeches rushed with full force -on the mind. The kind heart of Dame Partington would have been greatly -grieved, and she would have philanthropically exclaimed, “Bless the -inventor of clothing.” And “bless the inventor of clothing;” the -vitiated taste that can find nothing repulsive in an exact marble -nudity, which, in the flesh of the original would be thought with -Dogberry, “most tolerable and not to be endured,” would be most fully -satiated—gorged—after continually looking upon the half-clad and -garmentless people of the East, no matter how fine their figures. He -will certainly become of the opinion that dress is a part and parcel of -a woman, and that she is never so engaging in appearance as when clad -in Christian garments. “Greek slaves” in bronze don’t answer. - -One is struck with the fullness, beauty, and glossiness of the hair of -the natives, especially when he bears in mind, that those who do not -shave their heads, walk uncovered under the hot sun of their clime. I -had some curiosity to find out the secret of this. They use on their -hair twice a-week the juice of limes, obtained by boiling them, and -then dress it with an oil pressed cold from the queen cocoa, scented -with “citronella,” a very singular and powerful perfume which they -distil on the island. Sixty drops of the citronella is sufficient to -perfume a bottle of the oil of considerable size. - -Should you sleep ashore at the hotel, you are awoke at an early hour -and informed that “bathing” is ready. Accoutred in a Lazarus-like -robe, generally known as a sheet, you bid the heathen lead the way, -and you follow to an outhouse constructed of bamboo and mats. Here two -fellows pour cold water over you from copper “monkeys,” in such quick -succession, that the most inexorable disciple of Priessnitz, would be -soon forced to cry _peccavi_. Encased in the Lazarus garment you flee -into your chamber. You are pursued here by a heathen, who tells you -“me barber,” and proceeds to shave one side of the face at a time, -shampoos your head with lime-juice, and then withdraws in favor of -another idol-worshipping attendant, who mollifies you with a cup of -fine coffee. The pleasant persecution over, you sleep again. - -The news is conveyed from Point de Galle to Colombo by a -pigeon-express, none of your “fly away to my native land, sweet dove,” -business, with billet-doux, and riband around neck, but despatches, -which are tied to the feet of the bird, who in flying draws them up -under him, and in that way the paper is kept from a wetting, should it -rain. The birds from one point are sent to the other by a coach, and -not being fed in this strange cote, upon being turned out with their -despatch they fly home. They fly seventy-two miles in an hour and three -quarters. - -This is an outline of modern Ceylon. The men who “bow down to wood and -stone” here will tell you, that the footprints of a man, in stone, on -the top of a mountain, is the footprint of their God, where he stepped -over to the main land; but it is called Adam’s Peak, and the Mussulmen -say that Adam and Eve dwelt there. They will tell you that Paradise -was in the Seventh Heaven, and that Adam and Eve were expelled by the -command, “Get you down, the one of you an enemy to the other, and there -shall be a dwelling-place for you on earth.” Adam fell on Ceylon, or -Suendib, and Eve at Joddah on the Red sea, and after two hundred years -the angel Gabriel conducted Adam to where Eve was, and they came and -dwelt in Ceylon. - -Before leaving Point de Galle, a green boat came alongside, bearing an -elephant flag, out of which came the captain of a Siamese man-of-war, -to pay a visit of courtesy. He was quite a young-looking man, -dressed in a red jacket with a yellow silk skirt. Behind him walked -an attendant bearing a pearl box in his hand. One of our midshipmen -thought this must contain his “character.” As he spoke but Siamese, and -our commodore did not speak Siamese, the interview must have been quite -satisfactory. - -On the 15th of March we left Point de Galle, and headed across the bay -of Bengal, in the direction of the northwest end of Sumatra. We did -not take in our entire quantity of coal at Ceylon, but got on board -fifty tons of the wood of the place, to try the experiment of its -burning in our furnaces. It did not answer; the expense of consumption -per hour was twenty dollars, while coal would have been about six, -and producing less steam, while it induced greater danger of setting -fire to the ship. In our run across the bay of Bengal we had a smooth -sea, hot weather, and moonlight nights. In five days we were off the -island of Nicobar, and entered the straits of Malacca, the weather -changing to squally and rainy. Here we passed the English oriental -mail-steamer from China, having on board commodore Aulick, whose late -command of the East India squadron was soon to be assumed by the -commodore aboard of our ship. Our run through the straits of Malacca -was not signalized by any remarkable incidents. We saw the shore on -either hand at times; passed in sight of the English East India penal -settlement, Pulo-Penang, and close aboard of some most lovely tropical -islands, anchored at night, and caught some red fish; made lay to, -and frightened half to death, the captain of a Malay boat, called a -parrigue, who had been manœuvring very suspiciously about nine at -night, by firing a couple of muskets at him; and received and returned -a salute. This was the English frigate Cleopatra, in tow of an East -India Company’s steamer, one day’s run from Singapore. As they neared, -the frigate broke stops with an American flag at the fore, and let slip -with twenty-one guns. The old Mississippi was not to be caught napping, -and although we had to lower away our quarter boats to prevent their -injury by the concussion from our large guns, we soon had flying the -English ensign at the fore, and replied with twenty-one. It is not -the greater part of a century, that an American man-of-war would have -been allowed to pass without any such national courtesy being shown by -an Englishman. As the two vessels passed under our stern and stood on -their way, our band gave them in its best style, “God save the Queen!” - -At one o’clock in the day we were boarded by a native pilot, who -brought from the consul at Singapore a letter-bag for us. It was the -first news we had gotten directly, since leaving the United States, -then out eighty days, and almost antipodal to our homes, and no one but -he who has experienced it can appreciate fully the joy of getting a -letter at such a time. It was the first that had come to me away from -my own land, and I could have hallooed. - -In the afternoon we rounded in among some beautiful islands, standing -like verdure indexes to the harbor, and soon after anchored in the -English free port of Singapore, about two miles from the shore. - -And first the boats—yes, the boats. There are no more characteristic -things of a people than their water vehicles. The enormous “Himalaya” -steamship is the card that Great Britain sends out upon the ocean; the -magnificent clipper-ships of our own America, as they ride at anchor in -the “gorgeous East,” or the world over, as impatient steeds to break -their tether, not in comparison, but outstripping by contrast far the -naval architecture of any other people, do not evince the onward and -upward march of the United States, more fully than does the stupid, -cumbersome, unsightly junk, show the _inertia_ of the opinionated -Mongolian. - -The Malay boats around the ship soon after we arrived, were most -symmetrical in proportion, and pretty to look at. They are “dug-outs,” -rather crank, but beautifully and sharply modelled. The song of the -native rowers is quite strange, and far from unpleasing. The man who -sits behind you in the sharp stern, steering with a paddle, pitches his -voice, and gives the key-note of the “barbaric pearl” ditty (that is, -I supposed, it must have been something about barbaric pearls), goes -on with the burden, and the two rowers amidships, rather indifferent -to the fact that the unsteadiness of their boat does not suit you, -musically chorus, “A—lah! A—lah! El—lel—la!” Their larger boats -called prahus, with their graceful latine sails, move with great -rapidity through the water, and are said to be as elegantly modelled -as any yacht “America.” Indeed, some are of the opinion that the fast -modern pleasure-boat, owes its origin to the prahus of the Malay. - -Thackeray, in his “Cornhill to Cairo,” has most pleasantly and truly -described the keen relish which is afforded to travel if one could be -taken up, and suddenly translated—or immersed as it were—among a -people entirely different in complexion, habit, and costume, from his -own. Unfortunately you are deprived of this in the East; your arrival -at one place is continually anticipating another; and so at Singapore, -most unwillingly, you get too large a slice of the picture, too much -foretaste of the grand “central,” “celestial,” “flowery,” “middle -kingdom,” though in a few days’ run of China. The first thing that met -our gaze, laying in shore of us, their unsightly masts unshipped, their -large sails under cover, their high stems and decks in the shadow of -mats and bamboo, waiting for a change of the monsoon that they might -go back to Quangtung or Fungching, were moored the ungainly Chinese -junks. Of course, as is invariably the case, even on their smaller -boats, from either side of the square bow peers the big painted eye; -and if the stranger should be curious enough to inquire why they -are put there, the matter-of-fact Chinaman, with a “Hy-yah,”—more -expressive than the shoulder shrug of the Frenchman—would make answer, -“No hab eye, how can see?” - -On landing, the Chinese features of the place are found to predominate -over all others, though the population of the town is also composed -of English merchants, Malays, Arabs, Jews, Parsees, Hindoos, &c., -amounting in all to about forty thousand. You no sooner put foot on the -stairs that lead from the little bridged river, which equally divides -the city, than your ears are filled with the interminable banging of -gongs, more terrific than those which broke on the tympanum of Mr. -Benjamin Bowbell when he was going to be buried alive with an Eastern -princess. If a Chinese funeral is progressing, the gong is heard, if -some mart has just been opened, or a public sale is to take place, beat -the gong, and at sundown from the junk, “Joss” is “chin-chinn’d” by -gong-beating. The streets present a scene of much bustle and activity, -and traversing them are the most grotesque and picturesque oriental -costumes—the large tassel pendent from the Fez cap of the Parsee, of -as bright a scarlet, or his loose vest of as deep a blue, and the -handle of his pipe just as long, as others that I had seen at prior -places. - -On the eastern side of the town, fronting on a fine parade or drive, -are the residences principally of the Europeans, with the exception -of some who have their bungaloes near the suburbs. Here are also -situated government-offices, a very plain-looking Protestant church, -whose swinging fans mitigate the intense heat to the worshipping -congregation; a very fine hotel, under whose pleasant mahogany—located -in arbored buildings, kept cool by moving punkas—we so agreeably -placed our knees, to enjoy fine fruits, and for a time, keep from the -rays of a torrid sun; and a pyramidal column, whose inscription tells -in English, Arabic, and Hindostanee, how grateful the people there -resident are for the service rendered them, while a prominent member of -the East India Company’s government, by one Earl Dalhousie. He may be a -scion of Pope’s - - “Next comes Dalhousie,” &c. - -On the esplanade, when the sun pales his fire in the evening, a -tesselated group composed of the juvenile cockney, the Cingalese, the -Parsee, and, of course, “John Chinaman,” take their evening promenade, -while the wealthier natives who have been snoozing all day come out in -their gigs for a drive. Those of more moderate pretensions, who can -muster a halfrupee, get into a palanquin—pronounced _palankee_—for -the purpose. These are small four-wheeled vehicles with mat cushions, -capable of holding four persons. The turbaned and waist-scarfed -Lascar driver, though he has a seat apportioned him, and sufficient -reins, prefers coiling them over his arms, takes his little horse by -the cheek of the bit, and running beside him, continually encourages -him into a gallop. Some meddling English, with accompanying mistaken -philanthropy, endeavored to get an order passed by which the dear syces -should be made to save themselves fatigue and ride on their seats, -but the dear syces preferred their old custom, and protested strongly -against any such innovation. About a mile from the settlement are a -large collection of houses occupied by the Malays, who, although under -the protection of the English, still continue their custom of building -their houses over the water, elevated on posts and separately, that -they may feel freer from attack, or the visits of live animals. These -latter they have not much to dread now. Singapore is on an island -separated from the main land by a narrow strip of water, and tigers -sometimes swim over, but they are soon despatched, as the government -pays a reward of a hundred dollars for each one killed. On my ride to -this point I passed some tombs of former rajahs, and also saw a number -of wooden houses that were being fitted up for shipment to Australia. -We stopped at a factory where that pleasant farina, sago, was being -prepared. It is made from the pith of a tree; is first placed in vats -that it may become dissolved, then exposed to the sun to dry, after -which any foreign substance is removed by sifting, when it is packed, -ready for exportation, at three dollars and sixty cents per pecul. The -proprietor was a very polite and good-natured old Chinaman; by-the-by, -nearly all Chinamen are very good-natured: kick “John Chinaman,” and -smile as you do it, and he will smile too; do it with a frown, and he -becomes very indignant. The old fellow had the customary number of -hogs, whose quarters, whatever may be said of the want of cleanliness -of their celestial owner’s house, receive great attention. - -Not far from here we went through the ward of a hospital for English -sailors, and also another for Chinese, whose inmates were lying on -elevated and inclined shelves, the victims of every terrible disease of -the climate. - -The Joss-house at Singapore is as fine, though it may be not as -large, as any to be seen in China. An elaborately-designed and -gaudily-ornamented pagoda, of colored porcelain, rises from its centre; -its doorway is guarded by two gorgons dire, in a sitting posture, in -whose snarling mouths large balls have been ingeniously carved, so that -you may place your hand between the teeth and roll them about, yet the -whole is cut from a block of blue flinty granite. The court and alley -are paved with colored porcelain tiles, while the altar and the sleepy -idol that fills its rear, are decorated expensively and fantastically. -One of the wings of this temple, from which issued a more cook-shop -than savory smell, I noticed was appropriated as a kind of popular -restaurant, and filled with Chinamen down to the lower cooly, all -seated at small tables, uttering their mushy jargon, and bolting with -chop-sticks the boiled paddy. Their proximity to their “Joss-pigeon” -neither restrained their appetites nor their noisiness. “John Chinaman” -will tell you that “Joss” (a word which they are supposed to have -gotten by a corruption of “Dios” from their Portuguese neighbors at -Macao) is a very good man, but that there is no reason why he should -have a large temple all to himself. Opposite the temple I saw the first -Chinese “Sing-Song,” a street-theatre, made by the elevation of a -staging of bamboos covered with mats. Upon “these our players,” gaudily -attired, and accompanied by caterwauling instruments and “tom-toms,” -appear to the infinite delight of their street auditors, who guffaw -loud their approval, as they stand protected from the sun under their -paper umbrellas. - -At Singapore is the prison in which nearly all the convicts from -the possessions of the English are confined, and a collection of -more villanous visages could not be met with in the walls of any -other jail. Those who have been convicted of murder, have the word -“Doomga”—Hindostanee for their crime— branded on their forehead. -Those who have been guilty of lesser offences are put into chain-gangs, -and made to keep the road in order. There was one inmate, in the person -of a negro, from Long Island, who had been sentenced for fifteen years. - -Singapore was established by the English as a competitor for the trade -of the Dutch at Batavia, in the East Indian Archipelago, and being -declared a free port, has accomplished the desired result to a very -great degree. Numbers of prahus, that can play pirating or trading -as the opportunity presents, come there, bringing their commodities, -but principally that they may get powder and shot, to play Lambro -with neighboring Dyaks. It was founded in 1819, and settled with -the consent of the rajah of Johore, a part of whose possessions it -was. This rajah still receives a large annuity from the English, and -resides in the vicinity of the place. With a friend I drove out to his -place. The building was a plain one, fronted with a verandah, and the -entrance ornamented with two little brass howitzers. We were received -by the rajah’s son, who spoke a little English. He was gaudily attired -in turban made by wrapping a parti-colored kerchief about the head, -from his side hung a handsomely-mounted dagger, and he also sported -a fine gold watch. His features were quite handsome for a Malay. We -were ushered into an upper room, at one end of which, on a sofa, with -his feet drawn up under him, similarly attired with himself, sat his -father the rajah, and his brother whom we understood to be a “sultan” -of some neighboring province or country. On the table in front of them -lay their krisses, the hilts inlaid with costly jewels. They were -quite jolly-looking old fellows, and had a great many questions to ask -about the mission on which our ship was bound, &c., but the defective -translation of his son made the business of answering a slow one. -Before leaving him he caused tea and sweetmeats to be brought in, and -joined us quite sociably. The next day his son paid us a visit aboard -ship. - -On the 29th of March, we left Singapore, and in a short time were -heading our course in the China sea. On the 2d of April the heat became -very oppressive. What little breeze moved on the water was aft, and -the steamer moving faster than it, the windsails which led to the -lower quarters of the ship afforded no comfort, and hung collapsed -from their halyard. Some of our firemen; whose duties always severely -onerous, but particularly so in those burning latitudes, fainted as -they stood in the fire-room while feeding their furnaces. Such is the -exhausting effect of the climate on those engaged by the peninsular and -oriental steamers, that engineers and firemen, it is said, are rotated -at intervals, with those engaged on the more healthy part of the route -on the other side of the isthmus of Suez. The greatest mortality among -them arises from diseases of the liver. - -“All Fools’ Day” is not forgotten on shipboard. The better to remember -it in the younger messes, it is set apart for the celebration of the -caterer’s birthday (of course the caterer is born on that day); the -table is spread in the best way, and not until the caterer’s health -has been proposed in sherry—“a bumpers and no heel-taps”—and the -wine-glasses emptied, does the choking sensation remind the uninitiated -that he has bolted a wine-glass of rather strong whiskey. - -In two or three days the weather suddenly changed to blanket -temperature; we ran into a heavy head sea; the spray was chilly, and -the sun sank as if in the cold gray of autumn. On the morning of the -6th April, the Ladrone islands appeared in sight, and we ran into -a fleet of some three hundred Chinese fishing boats—we were off -the shores of the Middle Kingdom. The sight of these awkward boats, -with their build, showing what travellers to Cathay have called the -celestial propensity to “reverse” everything, was an interesting one. -But why say the Chinese reverse? They had a national existence, when -these our moderns were not even in embryo; their laws had an existence -long before the code of Lycurgus was promulged, and their hieroglyphic -record goes away back to a period which our own sacred revelation does -not compass, so it is we who reverse. John Chinaman knows that though -the stern of his boat is broad and high; that its bow runs wedge-like -and low; that his masts, instead of raking aft, lean forward; and if -his boat, under sail, look as if she was going to run under, still -that she has borne him safely when many a “ty-fung” blew. We wished -a pilot, but in answer to the inquiry whether any could furnish one, -they nodded assent, and held up fish and some rice. The weather being -thick we ran in under one of the Ladrones and anchored for the night -in thirty fathoms water, and fired a gun for a pilot. The next morning -at daybreak, we ran in and anchored in the roadstead of the old -Portuguese city of Macao, about four miles from the shore. Though the -turbid water all around, and the naked islands that encompassed the -anchorage, did not afford a prospect calculated to prepossess one with -his first glance at the “Flowery Kingdom,” still we had a feeling of -gladness that after an almost uninterrupted run of over four months we -had reached our goal, or the region which was to be the theatre of our -movements—yes, for months. - -Our stoppage was short; after communicating with the navy store-keeper -and the authorities ashore, receiving an official visit from the -Portuguese captain of the port, and procuring a Chinese pilot, we -lifted anchor, and stood over for the more flourishing English colonial -town of Hong Kong. We reached this place after doubling through denuded -steep islands, about seven o’clock in the evening. The ships of the -East India squadron lying in the harbor, who having had some intimation -of our proximity to the station by the mail-steamers from Ceylon, were -on the _qui vive_ for our approach. The old Mississippi, with the broad -pennant at her masthead, no sooner emerged from behind the western -point of the island, than the “Saratoga” and “Plymouth” sloops-of-war -hoisted their numbers and saluted. The storeship, “Supply,” we also -found there. Our ship was soon filled by brother American officers from -the other ships, come to salute and welcome old friends, and hoping -that the mail-bags we had from the United States, had brought each one -“good news from home.” The meetings were so joyous and so cordial that -we did not remember that they were taking place on the other side of -the globe. Officers from the English and French men-of-war also came -aboard to pay their respects. - -The oriental salute seldom consists of more than three guns, and -many of the natives of the East are unable to see why this number -should be fired; they can not comprehend why you should burn in -compliment the same material, which you would employ in sending deadly -missiles at them, if in anger. But we, Christian nations, manage -things differently; and the next day after our arrival told it: from -the rising to the setting of the sun nearly, it was powder burning. -Upon hoisting the colors at eight o’clock we saluted the town with -twenty-one guns, and twenty-one were returned by a water-battery; the -French saluted us and we saluted them; then came the admiral and -commodorial salutes, English and French, which were returned in the old -style by letting fall fore-top sails the while; and so that day the -noise of one hundred and seventy-nine guns, broke and tumbled along the -naked hills of Hong Kong, with nearly as splendid an effect as at St. -Helena. - -The harbor of Hong Kong is a very commodious and well-sheltered one, -in the shape of a half-moon, and its three entrances of Green Island, -Cap-sing-moon, and Lymoon passages, can not be seen from its centre. -On a shelf which makes a circular sweep, cut at the base of towering -volcanic hills, is built the town named in honor of the present -sovereign of Great Britain. Victoria, from the water, presents a fine -appearance, with its stuccoed warehouses, or “go-downs,” at the beach, -and the private residences and churches rising from plateaus made by -immense labor above; and the massive stone government offices and -barracks that appear on the left, tell how firmly the English plant -their foot in the East, and how triumph, with them, is synonymous -with occupancy of a slice of an enemy’s territory. This colony is the -result of their opium war in China. Our stay was short: the commodore -despatched the “Plymouth” to Shanghae, and, in the Mississippi, ran -over to Macao, an inland run of thirty-nine miles. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - -We anchored in Macao roads about mid-day, perhaps on the very spot, -where a sailor’s malice fired a magazine, and blew high in air, with -a noise like thunder, the atoms that composed the Portuguese frigate -_Donna Maria_, some years before. Macao, though in, is not of China; -instead of the low hut-like structures of unburnt blue brick and -fantastic tile of the Celestial, the eye, as it takes in the fine sweep -of the Praya, rests on large mansions whose verandahs exclude the -sun, whose portals are spacious and stylish, and whose stucco little -discolored by time, only appears all the more impressive, and sees -rising on the eminence behind venerable cathedrals; while garrisons, -crown batteries, and old-looking forts on either side, with the ensign -of Portugal, define its ownership, and make the picture more imposing. -It was here that the zeal of the Jesuit commenced the propagation -of his faith and questioned the ethics of Confucius; it was here -that the “glory and shame” of Portugal—one-eyed Camoens—disgusted -at the country which could neither appreciate his genius nor reward -his courage, spent in voluntary exile five years of his life and -completed the Lusiad—that poem which, when shipwrecked, he saved -from destruction by swimming and holding it above water, and that was -ultimately to meet with the worse fate of being rendered into another -language by Fanshaw. It was here that the English displayed the -surreptitious boldness of carrying away, by the power of arms, from -Portuguese custody, a missionary who had been guilty of the bad manners -and overt nonsense of offending people not his own, by a refusal of -compliance with a very ordinary custom, on the occasion of a catholic -procession, at a time when the authorities and the greater part of the -population were witnessing a boat regatta in their harbor; and it was -at the outer barrier of Macao, that its governor, a few years ago, -while taking an evening ride with one of his aids, was cut to pieces by -the revengeful Chinamen, because of his having caused a road to be made -through one of their burial-places in the vicinity. - -On anchoring, a number of us paid a visit to the shore, which was some -distance, in a Chinese “fast-boat,” the ship’s boats being seldom used -in those countries, both because of a sanitary regard for a ship’s -company, who would suffer from long rows under a new and sickly sun, -and because the Chinese conveyances are scarcely the tax of a song: a -“fast-boat,” with a crew of three or four rowers, which also serves -as the floating habitation of the owner and a family composed of as -many more, can be employed for constant attendance on a man-of-war for -a very small number of dollars per month. They are always at hand; -when not going they are made fast astern, and when triangulating -between Whampoa, Macao, and Hong-Kong, they follow with Ruth and Naomi -constancy. Will we forget you, old Ashing?—with your punctuality and -good-natured readiness, whether disturbed at your chow-chow, or called -at late hour of the night? Then, too, your ever equable philosophy; -the Irish pilot knew the rocks in the channel well, especially when he -thumped on top of one; but your foresight, far surpassing his, always -told us, in answer to the question, “Can you take us off?”—“Supposee -too much no good wind, no can catchee ship: Supposee no too muchee bad -wind, can catchee ship,”—which was so solacing. The name “fast-boat” -is a misnomer, except when chased by a good wind, and then they move -through the water, impelled by their large mat-sails, with great -rapidity. They are built in a wedge-like shape, generally some twenty -feet long, with a small indented place with seats under matting for -their passengers, and movable decks, below which the crew stretch -themselves to sleep. Since the days of the “old woman who lived in a -shoe,” nothing can be found which has been made to contain more human -beings in the same space than a Chinese fast, or tanka boat, besides -having room for cooking purposes, a watertank, a spare spar, and a -small altar, in whose front a joss-stick kept burning propitiates their -tutelar deity. Ye pampered denizens of the crowded city, upon whose -elbows the bricks and mortar of more plebeian neighbors crowd too -close, go and learn of those human bees of the world, economy of space. - -The water becomes so shoal before reaching the stone pier, that the -little vessel lowers sail and drops anchor—this shoalness is the -result of that want of force or energy, which, shown in the decline -of Goa, could not maintain the fortifications of Point de Galle after -building them, and which from sudden and unhealthy culmination, has -marked the downfall of all the Portuguese possessions in the East. - -We were encompassed by tanka-boats—so named from their resemblance -in shape to an egg—a great number of which they could scarcely -contain. Their maiden proprietors, with their pretty teeth, big nankeen -breeches, nicely-plaited hair, small bare feet and braceleted wrists, -at once set up the cry, “Takee my boatee!—takee my boatee!” Some one -having taken the cockle-shell barge of Atti, and some other that of -Aqui, a few moves of the powerful skull of the Celestial Charon at -the stern, as her small feet step back and forth on a neatly-scoured -miniature platform, and a few pulls at the sweep-oar of the Celestial -Charon in the bow, and the boat now is in the sand of the beach. One -of the maidens, with none of the aversion of the feline species, steps -over into the water, arranges a small cricket-bridge, and balance-pole -of bamboo, and with the right hand of fellowship helps you up on the -nice stone jutty. Up, you walk to Franck’s hotel, on the wide and -level praya, leading to the circular promenade on which the Rip Van -Winkle population, when the hot sun is nearly down, go to take their -ante-supper walk and evening airing. - -On the 18th of April we left the anchorage of the old Portuguese city, -and started for our first visit to the anchorage of Canton for ships -drawing twenty feet of water. We stood across the wide and turbid -estuary of the Pekiang, and about twelve o’clock we reached the Bocca -Tigris—the proper mouth of the Canton river—and passed the forts -of the Bogue, that the English ships Andromache, Imogen, and others, -handled so badly as they held on their way up to their great city. We -were detained some time before reaching here, by having towed under -an itinerant fast-boat who had made fast astern. It took some time to -right his boat, bail her, and take off the crew who huddled on her -keel. The fellow was attempting to smuggle salt which made his boat too -deep. He afterward fell into the hands of some of the river pirates who -infest the waters of China. We ran through fish-stakes innumerable, -passed pagodas—those lofty, circular, terraced piles of brick and -porcelain, which some of the Chinamen tell you were built to mark -the commencement of learning and civilization with them, and others -that they keep off evil spirits from the country visible from their -tops—and at three o’clock were moored in Whampoa Reach, surrounded by -merchant-ships of all nations; from the mountainous old East Indiaman, -to the (cynosure of all) magnificent American clippers. ’Tis here, of -all the world, in a limited space, that the alpha and omega of naval -architecture are to be seen—the “Flying Cloud,” the “Sea Serpent,” and -the Chinese salt-junk. - -After chartering a Peruvian-built bark as a coal-ship for the squadron, -and ordering two officers to her, allowing those of the Mississippi -to make a hurried visit to Canton, and shipping about forty Chinese -coolies, whose names puzzled the purser to enter, we returned to Macao -and then to Hong-Kong. On the 27th April we left the latter place for -the more northern port of Shanghae, where the steam-frigate Susquehanna -awaited the arrival of the commodore, who proposed making her his -flag-ship because of her noble spaciousness. We went out by the Lymoon -passage, and with the ship deeply laden with coal, staggered along up -the Formosa channel. For a few days we had a mist so thick that it -precipitated in rain, and afterward a fog so thick that we ran slowly -and cautiously not to go over Chinese fishermen, and also to take -soundings, for which purpose the engines were stopped at intervals. -Our band played at intervals: the English-coast pilot on board had a -Kanaka servant with him; this fellow would listen to the music with -much interest and seem delighted: the Chinese cooley would move about -the deck the while, apparently perfectly unconscious of, or indifferent -to the sweet strains, or if he observed at all, his smooth and sinister -face looked his disapproval of such a barbarian noise. - -Our first of May suggested anything else but floral association. It -was cold and raw; blowing fresh, and a heavy head-sea, which, during -the night, smashed in the port side of the head-rail of the ship; deck -wet, sky overcast; no observations, to determine our position could be -taken; poor little land-birds, ejected from domicil, were perched in -the rigging, too much benumbed to work their passage, and around were -small junks of the Chinaman, “laying-to,” with basket-drags from head -and stern, like floating anchors. - -On the 3d, we entered the mouth of the Yang-tse-kiang—it being -remembered that _kiang_ is the Chinese for river. The water is as muddy -as that of the Pekiang. Just inside of an island, bearing the euphonic -name of the orientalist and quasi-missionary, Gutzlaff, we got an -English pilot who gave us the first intelligence of the doings of the -rebel army, up the river, in the vicinity of Nanking. The navigation of -the Yang-tse is exceedingly intricate, owing to hard and shifting bars, -which rendered it necessary for a ship of our size to proceed with much -caution. The shores were low and white, and resembled the coast of -Florida. Shanghae is situated on the Woosung river, which empties into -the Yang-tse at the village of Woosung, and after reaching the village -and anchorage for opium-ships, you run off to the left and southwest -for Shanghae. Nothing can exceed the closeness and thoroughness of the -cultivation visible on the bank on both sides of this tortuous stream; -it looks like one great market-garden, and the wonderful industry of -its cultivators, says to the black soil, month in and month out, “Give! -give!” The unremitting toil, and the uninterrupted use of ammoniacal -fertilizers never allow the earth to be weary of well-doing. No wonder -agriculture is so fostered by the government, and that once a year the -imperial cousin, &c., to the planetary system, should, by holding the -plough in the field, attempt the impossibility of adding dignity to the -labors of the husbandman. - -A few hours’ run after entering the Woosung, enabled us to descry -the Susquehanna and the Plymouth, the bend of the river, and the low -and level paddy-fields, causing them to appear as if enclosed by dry -land. The salute of the former came to us over any quantity of waving -rice. The river, at the city, is quite narrow, and we anchored in the -Chow-chow water—which, with the upturned mud, curls and eddies and -turns back and runs on, causing the ships to swing every way at their -anchors—just opposite to the numerous houses of the foreign residents, -and a short row from a stone quay and level walk which imported -cockneyism calls “_the Bund_.” - -Below where we lay, across Suchow creek, was to be seen a neat little -protestant church, with a small tower, and the unpretending residences -of the missionaries of protestant churches, whose unremitting labors, -and social deprivation, deserve better reward than the mere partial -success with which they meet. Above the consulate and hongs, commences -the city, its walls approaching the water’s edge, and running some -distance back. A short walk through a crowded and muddy suburb and you -enter one of the gates. The imperial authority, the Taoutae, fearing -an attack from the adherents of the rebel chief, Thae-ping-Wang, -had fortified the place, and most of the silk and other stores were -closed. Previous to our arrival they had experienced the shock of -an earthquake, which had shaken down a wall or so. I passed through -the narrow, sloppy streets, but the scene was far from the animated -one that we had seen in Canton. The population, whose complexions -and persons are better than in the more southern districts, were -evidently apprehensive that there was soon to be “too muchee bobbery,” -or fighting. But nothing can restrain the lower classes from their -insatiate vice of gambling. In the tea-gardens, from morning to night, -it was to be seen going on; while the “sing-song” theatres were amusing -others. At the entrance to a joss-house, and along the streets, were -to be seen the horrible ghastly emaciation, and foamy mouths, of dead -and dying beggars, in filthy tattered rags, to whose presence the -passers-by seemed utterly indifferent. Some had dragged themselves -to die on the flag-stone crossing of a small stream, that they might -possibly get interment; it being said that any one who touched them, is -compelled to have this office performed. - -The occupants of the foreign hongs had formed a volunteer, or patrol -company, for the custody of their property, and under the protection -of the guns of quite a large English and American force, were having -their amusement, indifferent to Taontae, or Thae-ping-wang. Dinners -were given at the consulates, _a la Chinois_, at which the American -and English envoys were present; and at night parties were given by -these functionaries, and well attended; or a neatly-printed bill -with “Imperial Theatre, Shanghai, and _Vivant Regina and Princess_,” -requested the honor of your Company, to witness the dramatic doings of -“her majesty’s servants,” of the English brig “Lily.” Then, too, there -was the “spring meeting of the Shanghae races,” which were interesting, -and ridiculous too, at times. The course was not very extensive, but -quite well thronged, here and there a Tartar soldier being visible in -the crowd. The races, in which I noticed Mr. T’hën Tih had entered his -steed Qui-Qui, were:— - - 1.—THE GRIFFIN’S HANDICAP.—For _China Ponies_ that have run in the - _Griffin’s Plate_, and whose owners have subscribed to this Handicap; - the winner of the _Griffin’s Plate_ excluded.—Heats once round from - the Willows.—Ponies to be handicapped after the _Griffin’s Plate_ - is run for.—Subscribers may start two Ponies for one subscription. - Prizes from amount subscribed to be appropriated to 1st, 2d, and 3d - Ponies in six shares.—The winner of the race to receive 3 shares, - the second Pony 2, and the third 1 share.—The second and third - Ponies in the last heat to be the winners of the second and third - prizes.—Entrance $10, and half forfeit if declared on or before 8th - April. - - 2.—THE TSATLEE CUP,—Value $75, for all _Ponies_.—Entrance $3 each to - second Pony.—Weight for inches.—Winner of the _Manilla Cup_ to carry - 14 lbs. extra and of _Chaa-sée Cup_ 7 lbs. extra.—Twice round. - - 3.—THE PANG-KING-PANG STAKES,—Of $2 each with $20 from the fund for - _China Ponies_.—Weight for inches.—Once round from the Willows. - - 4.—THE LADIES’ PURSE AND PLATE,—Value $50 for all _Ponies_.—Entrance - $3 each.—Weight for inches.—Twice round. - - 5.—THE PERSIAN CUP,—Value $50.—Second Pony $15.—For _China Ponies_ - only.—Entrance $3 each.—Weight for Inches.—Once round from the - Willows. - - 6.—THE FORCED HANDICAP,—For all _Winning Ponies_ at this meeting to - be handicapped by the Stewards.—Entrance $3 each with $30 from the - fund.—Once round and a distance. - - 7.—THE CELESTIAL STAKES,—For all _Beaten China Ponies_ at this - meeting.—Entrance $3 with $30 from the fund. Weight for inches.—Once - round and a distance. - - 8.—THE NATIVE PURSE,—Value 15,000 cash, for all _Ponies_.—Indian and - Chinese riders.—Post entries to the clerk of the course. No entrance - fee.—Twice round. - -The native horses are small, and the native saddles clumsy in the -extreme, with their large iron-lever stirrups; and when John Chinaman, -perched like a monkey on his shoulders, pushed his pony for the purse, -the scene was exceedingly ludicrous. Fourteen cash make one cent, so -the amount won in the last race was not so great as one would think. - -On the 9th the commodore, with the customary manning of yards and -salute, shifted his broad pennant from the Mississippi to the -Susquehanna, and the British war-steamer “Hermes,” which had been -to take the English plenipotentiary to the camp of the rebel chief -below Nanking, returned with that functionary, whose mission had not -proven propitious. Her officers stated that on their way up the river, -near Cheang-foo, they were fired at by the rebel forces, and above -Nanking by the imperial troops, but without injury. In an interview -with them, the English assured them that their visit was both friendly -and neutral. The rebels expressed regret at the firing, and said they -would send down an order to prevent its recurrence. There being a -difficulty between Thae-ping-wang and the English embassador, Sir S. -George Bonham, as to the preliminaries of an interview, the “favorite -of Heaven” not willing to make any concessions, the steamer returned, -and was again fired at, one shot striking her hull, and another the -main-yard and backstay. The “Hermes” let slip at them, knocking over -some of their guns, and passed on. At a place called Silver island they -stopped to take a look at the idols the rebels had broken, when one of -their generals came down with an apologetic letter about the firing; it -was a mistake. This general said himself, and those united with him in -the struggle, were protestant Christians; that they did not tolerate -opium, tobacco, or profanity, and worshipped not idols, but the one -God. If they were successful they would open Nanking to all the world. -At that time a great deal of aid to the labors of the missionaries in -China, was predicted from their movements, which subsequent events have -not realized. - -The storeship “Supply,” of our squadron having gotten ashore at the -mouth of the Yang-tse on the “North bank,” we were suddenly despatched -to her assistance, but discovered she had gotten afloat before the -Mississippi reached her anchorage. Below Woosung we took in tow a -large teak-wood junk, manned by Chinamen, and laden with coal, which -we were to take aboard after getting over the bar. On the 18th, while -waiting for the Susquehanna, the tide changed, the old junk drifted -into us threatening to crush our quarter-boats, so she was cast off. -The ancient pig-tail mariner who presided over her crew and helm, -though conscious of drifting each moment on a dangerous bank, would not -cast his anchor, because, as it was afterward believed, he thought the -“fanquis” of the American steamer were going to tow him out to sea; the -consequence was, the wind and sea having increased, the junk struck, -and the tide soon falling, she was hard and fast. Boats were sent to -her assistance, but the breakers prevented her from being reached, -before a late hour of the night, when the officer sent with the boats -seeing it impossible to get her off, and seven feet water in her hold, -she was abandoned, and the crew brought aboard of the Mississippi. A -dismal looking set of Celestial scape-graces they were, and presented -a motley group as they sat around their pig-tail Falconer encased in -an antique fur cape, jabbering about their escape. Before our boats -were able to reach them, they had illuminated their cabin altar, burned -perfumed sticks and paper, and chin-chinned Joss with great vim, but -their stupid little tutelar deity not having responded to their prayers -for assistance, they became indignant, tossed Mr. Joss, altar, perfumed -sticks, and all, overboard, and betook themselves to the more sensible -thing of building a raft of bamboos and their huge mat sails, with -which they proposed, when the sea went down, to risk their safety. They -were sent back to Shanghae by the pilot-boat, having subjected Uncle -Sam to some three thousand dollars’ loss, besides nearly all of the -crew of the boat, that slept aboard of her, had the “junk fever,” and -one afterward died from it. - -The weather continuing very rough, the wind at times changing in five -minutes to the opposite point of the compass, we laid under Saddle -island for two or three days, when, with the “Supply” in tow, and in -company with the now flag-ship, “Susquehanna,” on the 23d of May, we -took our departure for the Loo-Choo islands. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - -The island of Great Loo-Choo appeared in sight after a run of three -days from China. Previous to reaching there, the commodore issued a -general order, requiring look-outs to be kept in port as at sea, during -the stay of the squadron among the Japanese islands, and all movements -of vessels or collections of boats were to be reported to the officer -of the deck, and by him to his superiors; sentinels with loaded musket -and six rounds of ball-cartridges; general and division exercises of -great guns and small arms, with artillery and infantry drills, were -to be prosecuted with increased diligence; and in navigating those -seas attention was to be given more to precautionary measures to -secure safety than to accomplish quick passages. Another general order -stated that the countries which our ships were then about to visit -were inhabited by a singular people, whose policy it had been, during -more than two centuries, to decline all intercourse with strangers, to -which end they had resorted to acts at variance and irreconcilable with -the practices of civilized nations; that one of the duties enjoined -upon the commodore, was to endeavor to overcome these prejudices by a -course of friendly and conciliatory measures, and to strive to convince -the Japanese that we went among them as friends, though assuring them -of our determination never to submit to insult or wrong, or desist -from claiming and securing those rights of hospitality justly due -from one nation to another. In pursuance of these objects, every -individual under his command should exercise the greatest prudence, -forbearance, and discretion, in their intercourse with all with whom -they came in contact. While distrustful of their apparent friendship -and sincerity, and guarding against treachery, they would extend toward -those oppressed and misgoverned people every kindness and protection, -and would be careful not to molest, injure, or maltreat them in any -manner; that it would be in time to resort to extreme measures when -every friendly demonstration should have been exhausted. The commodore -also stated that his instructions directed him to forbid in the most -positive manner the acceptance of presents or supplies, unless those -who proffered them, were prepared to receive adequate returns. - -That we might be the better prepared, in addition to the great-gun -exercises, drill, &c., when “friendly demonstrations should have been -exhausted,” the commander-in-chief provided himself with an octagonal -marquee made of red, white, and blue, caused ambulances to be made in -the different ships, and directed that all boats of the squadron when -prepared for distant or active service, were to be armed and provided, -so as to be ready at a sudden call, with anchor and cable, two spare -oars, masts, sails, and rigging, spun-yarn and seizing stuff, four -battle-axes, a hand-saw for each division, one wood-axe, spikes, bag -with hatchet, sheet-lead and nails, spy-glass for commanding officer -of division, musket, pistol, and cutlass for each man, cartouch-box -filled, screw-driver and nipple-wrench, cleaning rags and oil for each -boat, a crow-bar, two blue-lights, two rockets, candles primed, and -match-ropes in tin-box, lantern and materials for getting light, boat’s -colors and signals, compass, bread, water and provisions, oar-muffles, -bandages and laudanum for wounded, lead-lines, small cooking apparatus -for largest boat, flash-pans, and awnings. - -On getting to our anchorage we felt as if we had arrived at the outer -door of the hermetic empire that we had come so far to deal with, we -being then only about eight or nine days’ sail from the bay of Yedo. As -Loo-Choo had no doubt been selected as the base of operation, upon the -principle of reaching the old hen by first going at the chickens, it -will be as well to give an outline of its history. - -The Loo-Choo islands—pronounced in Japanese Lu Kiu—are a dependency -of the Japanese prince of Satsuma. There are thirty-six islands in all, -which are divided in three groups: the Northern or Sanbok, the Middle -or Tchusan, and the Southern or Sannan group. According to the belief -of the inhabitants, the origin of the people of these islands, like -that of nearly all the orientals, is divine, and nowise of the Lord -Monboddo theory. Their annals always commence with a series of gods, -then follow a race of demi-gods, and at last come human beings. To -their great veneration for their ancestors, may probably be ascribed -these conceits. A son reveres his father beyond everything else; this -father likewise revered his progenitor. So the grandfather gets all the -love of his son, with a large share of that of the grandson through the -grandson’s father. A thousand years in Loo-Choo chronology is a small -matter: they note the existence of their islands for seventeen thousand -years, that is agreeably to what the Chinaman would call their “fash;” -so compound interest for a thousand years in filial veneration gives -divinity of origin to their nation. - -The Chinese emperor, Kang-hy, in 1719, sent a man of great attainments -to Loo-Choo. The report of this learned pig-tail, upon what he saw -in the country, was translated by Father Gaubil of the French Jesuit -mission in China, whose records probably contain more data relative -to the ancient history of the East, than is to be found in any other -mission. - -The Chinese histories first make mention of Loo-Choo in the year 605. -In that year a party of Chinese visited the islands, and on their -return brought with them some of the natives, who were taken to Pekin. -Here they were recognised as Loo-Chooans by the Japanese embassador at -that court. They are described as being very ignorant and very poor. -The emperor Yang-ti, however, sent embassadors and interpreters to -claim sovereignty over the islands, but the king of Loo-Choo rejected -all proposals of the kind, whereupon the emperor sent ten thousand -men from Fokien to invade the islands. They landed on the island of -Great Loo-Choo, and were bravely met by the king at the head of his -army. A pitched battle was fought, in which the king was slain, when -the Chinese triumphed, taking five thousand prisoners, and sacking the -cities of Sheudi and Napa. The Chinese chronicle the fact that the -Loo-Chooans were so lamentably destitute that they did not even know -the use of “chop-sticks!” and also state that they sometimes sacrificed -human beings at their religious festival, which barbarous custom was at -once abolished. - -The Chinese emperors of the Ting dynasty, and also those of the -succeeding Song dynasty, did not exercise sovereign rights over the -islands. A trade had sprung up between the two countries, and all went -as well as a junk could sail, until 1291, when the emperor Chit-su, -of the Eeven dynasty, resolved upon their conquest. He fitted out -and despatched an armed expedition for this purpose, but the Tartars -and Chinese, both disgusted and disheartened by the recollection of -their terrible failure in a similar attempt on Japan, after a short -absence returned to the port of Fokien, not having gone in sight of -the islands. The history of the islands speaks of constant civil war, -and bloody battles. In 1372 the largest island was divided into three -kingdoms. Hong-u, the first of the Ming dynasty, sent an embassador -to Loo-Choo, whose diplomacy was such as to induce T’say-too, one -of the kings who resided at Sheudi, to declare himself tributary to -China. His example was followed by the two other kings, and peace was -restored. Thirty-six Chinese families, by order or with the consent -of the emperor, emigrated to the island, who received their “quarter -sections” from the king, and from that time dates the commencement -of civilization and Chinese influence. Young men from Loo-Choo were -annually sent to Nanking, to learn the Chinese language at the expense -of the emperor; and presents were exchanged by the sovereigns. At the -death of T’say-too the emperor sent his son to preside over the realm. -Loo-Choo then became prosperous, trade sprang up; and during the reign -of Chang-pat-shi, the great grandson of T’say-too, the three kingdoms -of the islands were re-united, and the royal family assumed the title -of Chang. - -Revolutions and civil wars raged from time to time, and a feudal -system was established. Commerce with China increased, and the Chinese -complained of the scarcity of silver and copper coin in the provinces -Tshe-kiang and Fokien, on account of the exportation of it to Loo-Choo. -In 1500, the Loo-Choo people sent a trading junk to Malacca, many -to the island of Formosa, and a great many to the southern ports of -Japan. During the reign of Chang-tching, Loo-Choo became the market -where Japanese and Chinese merchants met to exchange their goods. -Commerce became brisk, and the constant quarrels between the Chinese -and Japanese gave the king an opportunity to extend his influence. The -extensive piratical operations of the Japanese, about the year 1525, -having their headquarters at Ke-long-chan, on the island of Formosa, -compelled the emperor of China to have recourse to the king of Loo-Choo -as mediator between him and the emperor of Japan. The mediation did not -suppress the piracy complained of, though backed by large squadrons -sent to sea by the celestial emperor, to destroy the pirates, over whom -his imperial confrere of Japan professed to have no control; indeed, -the Japan monarch alleged that there were many Chinese among these -outlaws. - -The ascent of the throne of Japan by Taico Sama, proved an event of -great importance. He was a man of great ability and shrewdness, and -attained his high position by his own exertions, and not by birth. -He put an end to feudalism in his country, and ruled with an iron -hand. He conceived the idea of using to advantage the terror which -prevailed because of the Japanese pirates, and the prestige which -their daring acts had acquired. His ambition was as unbounded as his -belief in manifest destiny, and his object was the conquest of China. -He despatched officers to the king of Loo-Choo, ordering him to declare -his kingdom tributary to Japan; and similar pressing invitations were -sent to the governors of the Philippine islands, the king of Siam, &c. -The sovereign of Loo-Choo temporized, and finally refused to submit, -relying on Chinese protection. He informed the emperor of the plans -of Taico Sama; a league of all these princes was formed against him, -when Taico Sama invaded that fighting-ground between the Chinese and -Japanese—the peninsula of Corea. Taico’s main object was attained. -He reaped all the benefit proceeding from piracies licensed by him or -enlisted in his service, and thus giving it the character of a regular -warfare. He smothered civil war in its germ, and sent away his most -influential opponents to fight in the Corea, not Crimea. Corea was then -the safety-valve for ardent spirits against the government, as France -keeps its Algiers, or keeps up a foreign war. Taico “savaad” a great -deal. - -During the reign of Taico, Loo-Choo suffered severely; trade was -brought to a stand still, and, like a more modern nation that Americans -wot of, Japan proclaimed herself mistress of the sea. The king of the -islands, however, managed to send an embassador to China, who was -received with great magnificence by the emperor, both on account of the -dangers he had encountered from the voyage in the junk, and the risk -incurred of falling into the hands of the pirates who swarmed in those -seas. - -After the death of Taico, and during the regency of Iyeyas for his son, -in 1612, a Loo-Chooan chief, dissatisfied with his king, armed three -thousand men in Japan, with whom he returned to his own country and -made the kingdom by force tributary to Japan, that is, to the province -of Satsuma. He took back the king a prisoner. The fallen sovereign of -Loo-Choo behaved with so much dignity, that two years afterward he was -generously sent back, and reinstated on his throne, remaining still a -true friend to the emperor of China. - -Commercial relations, but on a small scale, existed with China and -Japan, when, in 1708, all the plagues came down on Loo-Choo: it was -desolated by the ravages of terrible typhoons; the crops failed; cattle -died; the king’s palace was entirely consumed by fire; and frightful -epidemics prevailed among the natives. Cang-hi, the emperor of China, -sent them assistance, and his embassador, Supas Kang, in his report, -according to the translation in French, says the language of these -people is so mixed up of Chinese and Japanese, that it forms almost -a distinct language. He finds no wild animals or venomous reptiles -or insects, but much fish. Their exports at that time consisted of -sulphur, a peculiar red dye stuff, dried fish, saki, and timber, -principally cedar-wood. - -The prospect, as you approach Great Loo-Choo island, clothed in masses -of deep green, is very delightful to the eye, after it has been resting -for days on the slate-colored ocean. We reached our anchorage late in -the afternoon in the midst of a heavy rain, on the 26th of May. The -roadstead off the city of Napa is enclosed by large fields of coral, -and the entrances through the reefs are quite narrow. When we had -gotten inside, large numbers of the natives appeared on the shore, -no doubt greatly astonished at the sight of the two large steamers; -and shortly after, the sloop-of-war “Saratoga,” from Hong Kong, also -arrived. In a short time a rude dug-out boat came off to our ship, -containing some officer, but as the flag-ship had previously made -signal forbidding any communication with shore, he was directed to that -ship—now the Susquehanna. He wished to know what we wanted in their -harbor; the answer to this was, “Ask no questions and I’ll tell you,” -&c. He was given to understand that he was rather too “small pigeon” -for our commodore to see, and that he must go back and send off their -“first chop” mandarin, as we could hold no intercourse with any other. -This was trying on the _dignitate_ early, but nothing else will answer -in the East; any concession of equality, or manifestation of too great -courtesy, would be at once construed by them into an admission of their -superiority. - -Our stripes and stars were a new sight to them, and the sudden advent -of our ships in their waters was more than they could comprehend. -At night their chief men took counsel together, and came to the -conclusion that we were in want of _kam-yum-muru_, or something to eat; -so the next morning off came, in a string of canoes, bullocks, pigs, -chickens, and vegetables, as presents. These were sent back with the -information that we could not receive presents. Become quite uneasy -about our presence, they consented to their prince regent’s coming off -to the flag-ship, which he did at an appointed hour, with a _suite_ -in their canoes. He was well received, and given the cheap salute of -three guns, which small compliment he would have preferred to dispense -with. They were shown over the ship: the engines were moved for their -observation, and they evinced immense surprise: some of the attendants, -however, when the great pistons moved, bolted up the hatchway and made -for their boats. The higher officers were quite dignified in appearance -and demeanor, but the lower class showed a simplicity most childish. -They giggled at a looking-glass, and continually felt behind it; a -sight through a spy-glass was most puzzling; a wine-glass they held -tightly with both hands, and elevated to the forehead before tasting -contents; a watch was most miraculous, and as they gathered round they -were all wonderment, and imitated its “tick tick;” when the works were -exposed to them, their exclamation of surprise was more like one of -pain. The contents of the purser’s chest when exposed to them they -seemed to think quite shiny and pretty, but evidently were unaware of -the value or use of eagles, dollar-pieces, &c. On a chart of the world, -in the cabin one day, I showed a number of them their country, and then -designating my own, traced the track by which we had come to their -island, which they appeared to comprehend. It was quite amusing to see -the rapidity with which they would let go the polar handles of a small -galvanic battery, which much persuasion and the example of some of the -men were first required to get them to take hold of, as soon as it was -slightly charged by pushing in the needles. They would drop their hands -and rub their wrists in amazement. - -The dress of the Loo-Chooans consists of a loose gown reaching to -the knees, with large sleeves, made of a species of grass-cloth, of -their own manufacture, and confined at the waist with a wide sash, -pendent from which they wear a tobacco-pouch and small pipe. After the -interchange of salutations, the pipe is always produced. On their feet, -which are generally bare, they wear a coarse straw sandal, secured by a -strap passing through next to the great toe, and one around the instep. -Like the Japanese, the better classes carry a fan; but only the high -officers wear a hat, made of crape, the first class yellow, and the -second red—more particularly as a badge of authority. Their hair is -brushed up all around the head, and its ends secured in a knot on the -summit of the head, transfixed by silver or brass pins. - -[Illustration: _LITH. OF SARONY & Co. NEW YORK._ - LOO CHOO.] - -We knew that Loo-Choo had been visited in 1846 by a French missionary, -Forcade, who had subsequently left, but were rather surprised on -anchoring abreast of a tall and singular formation, called in the -surveys of the “Alceste and Lyra,” “Capstan rock,” but which more -nearly resembles a large old barn, with dark thatched roof, and huge -projecting eaves—to see flying from its summit the English flag. We -afterward ascertained that it was a flag giving protection to Dr. -Bettelheim, a converted Hungarian Jew, who had married an English -lady, and had been sent by an English naval mission society, some -seven years before, as a missionary to Loo-Choo. He did not appear to -be a man whose disposition and temperament were calculated to afford -him success in his labors, although he had persevered in his study of -their language until he could preach to the natives in it, and had -occupied his lonely position for years, with no other Christian faces -than those of his wife and three children. The Loo-Chooans had tried -every way to get rid of him; they had addressed, through the Chinese, -to the English minister, Lord Palmerston, remonstrances against the -mission, which invariably closed with the petition that he would remove -Bettelheim. They may not have known Vattel, but they urged with much -energy his doctrine, that a missionary should leave a country when -his presence was not agreeable to its people. But the Dr. held his -ground, though he was made to undergo some rather rough treatment. -Himself, by his professional skill in the healing art, and his wife, -during the prevalence of the smallpox, had been very attentive to the -people, which caused the authorities to become quite jealous. They were -followed and hooted at in the streets, and finally, Mrs. B. during a -walk, was forcibly separated from her husband, and himself beaten. The -British war-steamer “Sphynx” happened to pay a visit to Napa not long -afterward, when the authorities made ample apology for the offence, -and promised better things in future. They removed his servants, or -constantly changed them. They erected spy-houses opposite the gate of -his residence, which were constantly attended. If he preached to a -crowd in the street, or market-place, at a signal from the Japanese -police on the island, his auditors all ran away. If he distributed -tracts in their language at night, the next morning, the police brought -them back to him, carefully tied up. - -They were much disturbed by our presence, and if our sails were -loosened to dry, they wondered why we did not sail away. We made a -reconnoissance of their harbor to ascertain or confirm the accuracy -of the surveys of Beechy, and the flag, or station staffs, we erected -on shore for this purpose, around which numbers would gather, sorely -perplexed them. - -The principal town of Napa, containing about twenty thousand -inhabitants, is located behind the rising beach, and can not be seen -well from the shipping. Its _kiang_, or river, forms a harbor for junks -from China, Japan, and their coasting trade, and small boats only. The -houses of the town which are low, are enclosed in walls of cyclopean -masonry, built mostly without any cement, of coral rock. Over these -the limbs of the banyan project, and they are mostly fringed on top by -a growth of cactus. The entrances to their dwellings are from narrow -alleys running from the streets, and concealed by an abrupt elbow turn, -so unless you notice close, you will scarcely observe the doorway. The -streets are narrow, and laid out like those of Peking, and unpaved, -and the reception that we met with on walking them, was anything -but sociable; not that the mass of the people, who, after getting a -little over the trepidation which our unexpected arrival produced, -were not inclined to be friendly, but because of the surveillance of -their suspicious and jealous officials. On our approach the shops were -closed, and the way in front entirely deserted, while as soon as you -had passed, there was a great throng gazing at you from the rear. Those -weaving in the open air with their rude looms seizing their children -did flee. Old women, awfully ugly, with tattoed hands, hair piled on -their heads like a greasy mop, invested with a single salt-sack-looking -garment of exceeding brevity, if you came upon them would betake -themselves to flight, leaving the sharks’ meat, or vegetables, which -they might have for sale, in the market-place, or else bury their -faces in their dirty bluish tattoed hands, and so remain until you had -passed. We were forced to conclude that our presence was as moving -as that of Mr. Nicodemus in the Spectre Bridegroom; or else that an -American naval officer, if he caused those old sycoraxes to shun him, -must be ugly enough to scare a horse from his oats. - -The origin of the married women tattoeing their hands, according to -Loo-Chooan story literally rendered, is this: A husband going on a -journey had an agreement with his wife for three years, but contrary -to the agreement, ten years passed before his return. Her parents -repeatedly proposed that she should change, and marry again, but she -earnestly defended her chastity, saying, “A woman should not marry two -husbands!” Still gainsaying, with blows they were forcing her to marry. -She invented a stratagem—she painted her fingers with ink; she spoiled -her beauty. Hence it must be, they say, that all women on marrying -tattoe their hands. - -In our walks we always had the unsolicited company of some government -deputies. If you motioned them about anything, they were exceedingly -addicted to salaaming, by bowing and raising their hands to their -heads, but they remained exactly where they were. A rare and beautiful -flower attracted your attention, and you wished to look closer at it, -your attendant functionary pantomimically trusts that you will not -enter, but passing through the gate, or scaling the coral wall, in a -few minutes he will present you with one of the novel flowers. Should -one of your company accidentally or intentionally slip out of the -sight of these impromptu attendants, they appear most mentally troubled -till he reappears. - -The policy pursued with these people was a mild but firm one. They were -asked for a house on shore that might be used as a place for our sick -to recruit. They declined; and a few days after one of our officers and -some men occupied one of their buildings in the town of Tumai, divided -from Napa by a small stream. This building had been used as a kind of -town-hall, where the chiefs assembled in council, carried thither in -sedan-chairs, encased in ratan lattices, and swung from a pole resting -on the shoulders of two serfs. The honesty of the natives was shown in -the security of clothes and everything else that might be left out; -even a boat’s anchor lost, and found by them, was returned to this -place, though they kept a spy upon its American inmates night and day. -Here, while dining with the young officer in charge, I “tried on,” with -some of the more intelligent natives, sentences in their language, from -a vocabulary which had been prepared for him, and with which he had -been able to negotiate for his daily supply of chow-chow, and eatables -for some of the ships. “Cha tooti kwoo”—tea bring to me; and “Midzoo -tooti kwoo”—water bring to me; and similar simple sentences they -understood readily; but the attempt at more complicate ones, in which -the vowel sound is dropped, rather awoke their risibles. - -The authorities sent off protests against the further occupancy of the -house at Tumai, and requested that we would vacate it. They stated it -was the place they had for assembling; it was the only place they had -for meeting together to debate their local affairs, and it was also the -place where their young were taught. They also took the opportunity -of mentioning that the fertility of their island was not equal to the -wants of its population; and that every draft upon them for live-stock, -&c., was an oppression. In this there was obvious dissimulation; -because they sent away to other countries a good deal of the produce -of their land, and a great deal as tribute, while we paid well for -whatever we got. The commodore had notified them of his intention of -going up to their capital, Sheudi, distant some four miles from the -anchorage, to pay his respects to the prince-regent at the palace; they -did not covet the honor; they trusted he would not confer it. - -Not far from Tumai are a number of the native tombs, beautifully -located on green hill-sides. They are large, built in the form of a -horse-shoe, with a cemented dome fronted by a little court, into which -you descend by a flight of stone steps, and are kept whitened with -great assiduity by the surviving relatives. The most attractive and -romantic spots are chosen for their location. Their reverence and care -for the homes of the dead, may well put to the blush, the wickedness -of Christian communities who make streets through graves and graveyards. - -In a grove of pines, at Tumai, not far from the landing-place, is a -secluded spot, which appears to have been set aside for the interment -of foreigners. Our ships buried some of our men and one officer there. -As soon as the graves are closed the authorities cause them to be well -built over, without charge, in a parallelogram, with coral rock and -cement, leaving an inclination toward the feet that the rain may run -off. Any inscription that the friends please, may either be imbedded -in the masonry or erected at the head, which will be respected and -preserved by the natives. On copper plates, tacked on wooden crosses at -the end of some of these tombs, I read:— - -“Wm. Hares, seaman in his Britannic majesty’s ship, ‘Alceste,’ aged 21 -years, lies buried here, October 16th, 1816. This monument was erected -by the king and inhabitants of this most hospitable island.” - -“Vive Jesus: † vive sa croix: Ci-Git Calland (Pierre Juler), second -chirurgien a bord de la corvette de Roi la _Victoriense_; mort a bord -le 16th Septembre, 1846.” - -“Ci-Git Le Corps Du R’d Mathieu Adnet, Pêre Miss’re Apostolique, Fréres -du Japon, Decedé le hier J’et, 1848.” - -The Loo-Chooan manner of making salt is peculiar. They clear acres of -ground in the vicinity of the water, and make it as level as possible. -During the extreme heat of the day men continue to throw into the air, -that it may descend on this level space, ladles full of salt-water. -Partial crystallization is thus produced, which unites with the sand -under foot, which, being allowed to dry, is piled up aside, and -afterward the saline matter is washed from it, filtered through straw -into earthen vessels, and then evaporated by heat. On these level -places our marine, and boat-howitzer divisions were usually landed for -drilling purposes. - -You see no wheeled vehicles on the island, and one in the shape of an -ambulance-cart which the commodore had built, and once ashore there, -is, no doubt, the first that a Loo-Chooan ever looked on. Small horses, -with their untrimmed fetlocks, are the only means of conveyance from -the junks to the interior, of whatever little merchandise they now -consume. The load is placed on a rude saddle secured by girth and a -crupper of rope enveloped in bamboo-rollers like strung necklace; -and the bridle, with its head-stall of rope, has two small pieces of -wood passing on either side of the nostrils of the horse, with a cord -through them, by which he is controlled in place of a bit. - -On the 6th of June, the commodore, with a suite of officers, determined -on paying an official visit to the prince-regent, at his palace at -Sheudi—a visit which the authorities had vainly endeavored to get -indefinitely postponed. They did not understand these attentions: -stretching wide their hands, they said “America was a great nation; -while Loo-Choo was no larger than the points of the fingers scarcely -separated—what does America want with Loo-Choo?” The escort, when -landed and formed at Tumai, consisted of two companies of marines -in full dress—to whom, for some purpose or other, six rounds of -ball-cartridges had been issued per man—two brass pieces and fixed -ammunition, manned by sailors, and two full bands from the Susquehanna -and Mississippi, while in front were three tall fellows carrying -the American ensign. The rear was brought up by servants carrying -some presents consisting of arms and calicoes sewed up in red cloth, -and others with chow-chow baskets. The march was over a well-paved -and graded road of coral rock. First we passed over a large terrace -overhung by enormous banyan-trees, which fronted a very thick arched -wall enclosing a temple and the tomb of some of the royal family. A -tablet standing on a large pedestal near the step of this terrace, -in native characters, warns the peasantry that when the sedan of any -high functionary rests here, that the lower classes must take the road -to the right. Sometimes we passed sugar-cane growing on one side of -the road, and on the other ingeniously-irrigated paddy-fields were -waving in green rice. The road then ascended by a grade of about seven -degrees, quite a high ridge, from which the extended prospect of -cultivation was very fine indeed. The sun came down hot, though at -times we walked under the shade of thick and pretty bamboo-hedges. The -sight was a rare one to the peasantry; some, attracted by the music and -the novelty of uniform, left their work in the fields and ran to the -eminences on the roadside, then others were alarmed and bolted; one -fellow I saw jump into a muddy stream, swim for it, and not look back -until he stood on the other side. - -We reached the street leading to the palace-grounds about twelve -o’clock. This was a wide one of nicely-rolled gravel, and on either -side were walls of much height and thickness, showing smooth and -expensive masonry. In marching along this approach, we passed under -three roofed and detached gateways, built at intervals across it. -They had three distinct entrances, the widest being in the centre, -over which a red sign, with Japanese characters in gilt, had this -announcement: “This is a small island, but observes the rules of -propriety; distinguished persons will pass through the centre opening, -others will go through those at the sides.” - -On arriving at the main gate of the palace, a number of the chiefs, -in their yellow and red caps, were there to receive us. Leaving the -escort outside, the commodore and suite of officers entered, and after -passing through successive courts, and up stone steps alternately to -the right and left, at a considerable elevation from the street, the -party was ushered into the hall of audience. Here were a number of -yellow and red-capped chiefs assembled. Chairs and tables for each one -of the guests were placed, and pipes, tea, and cakes, with lacquered -chop-sticks, served. When the regent—quite an old man, with long, -white beard—entered, with his councillors, he advanced and saluted the -commodore half way, insisting on rank or equality. The interview was -a short one; compliments were interchanged through Dr. Bettelheim and -Mr. S. W. Williams of Canton, when the regent was invited aboard of -the Susquehanna, when she should return to Napa, after a contemplated -absence of twelve days. The presents were then left in the middle of -the floor, and the visiting party retired. On reaching the street we -were conducted to a large hall in another part of the ground, where a -feast had been prepared for us, set out upon black lacquered tables. -The first course consisted of soups, of which there were nearly a -dozen different kinds furnished in succession, in small cup-bowls, -with porcelain spoons. There was nearly every kind from egg-soup -to “bird’s-nest.” The solids were pleasant to the taste but rather -suspicious in appearance, among which were slices of hard-boiled eggs, -so colored as to resemble sections of the uncooked tomato. Finding -that we were not able to make any progress with the black lacquered -chop-sticks which had been distributed at each one’s place, they -furnished us with little sharpened pieces of oak, with the aid of which -we did full justice to our hosts. - -After strange-looking cakes had been brought, tea removed, and pipes -handed, very small porcelain cups were placed, and our honorable -red-cap attendants, who according to their custom, wait themselves -upon their guests, kept them continually filled with SAKI from silver -vessels shaped like tea-pots. This was the first taste we had of this -colorless, celebrated Japanese national beverage. It was pleasant to -the taste, and yet the after-math was not; it had some of the _goût_ -of champagne, and then it was turnipy. Buckingham might be on the -seas, and then the seas might be on him; but a man could scarcely be -considered “in his cups” though a hundred cups were in him of _saki_. -Nor could he exclaim with Falstaff that the villain had put lime in his -“sack,” (did Shakespeare know Japanese?)—because the thimble-sized -tankard would not admit of it. - -The commodore, through the interpreter, toasted the queen and young -prince, and hoped Loo-Chooan man and American man would always be -friends. The chiefs of course salaamed considerably to this sentiment, -but I am quite dubious whether they did not regard it as an indication -of closer proximity with these Americans, who might disturb at a future -day the _nolli me tangere_ doctrines of their country. - -The feast over, the column of escort was again formed, and making the -march down to Tumai, in less time than up to Sheudi, by four o’clock, -all were aboard of their respective ships. - -No more beautiful place than Sheudi, so far as verdure, elevated -situation, and attractive foliage, is concerned. Our officers took many -a tramp up there, and always with pleasure. At cool springs well cared -for they could slake their thirst; under enormous trees they could -pic-nic or _siesta_ if they chose, and afterward bathe in a walled -lake all covered over with trees. What would the palace-grounds, the -Komooe of Sheudi, be worth in this country?—no more baronial domain -in England. Should you have gone unprovided with chow-chow on these -excursions, stop at a roadside _Kunkwa_, usually adjoining some place -of worship, and the occupants will promptly give you tea and cakes, and -the examination of your strange costume, and sage queries about your -ship, is their reward for their entertainment. If it should rain during -your walk, request one of your unbidden native officer associates to -procure a papyrus parasol. - -There are many things to interest an antiquarian taste, and provoke -conjecture, about Loo-Choo. At Napa there are stone-statues, eight -feet high, quite well executed, of their “far-seeing God”—there -are causeways of stone, breakwaters, forts constructed with good -engineering, and well designed and located for defence, though now -entirely disarmed; and you pass over well-arched bridges, with -neatly-cut stone balustrading, and in fine state of preservation. The -palace at Sheudi is a perfect fortress in wall and situation, and in -determined hands would laugh at a siege of many days. When were these -built?—when were these forts disarmed? As Basil Hall told Napoleon at -St. Helena, in speaking of this island, there are _point de fusils_ -there now. The invocation of the Ethiopic song, “Rise, old _Napa_, -rise!” would be now of no avail. - -Although a line of steamers from our Pacific coast to Shanghae, China, -on the arc of a great circle, would come nowhere nigh the group known -as the Bonin islands to the northeast of Loo-Choo, yet the commodore -still deemed it best to make a hasty reconnoissance of the harbor of -Port Lloyd, which had been surveyed some years ago by the English, who -claim sovereignty over Peel island by right of possession, though it -can be proven that it was first permanently settled by an American, -or one owing allegiance to our country; but as the whole policy of -our government has been opposed to foreign colonial possession, there -is scarcely any chance of there being any dispute about it. Mr. -English, under-secretary of state for foreign affairs, may make himself -comfortable. - -On the 9th of June the Susquehanna, with the sloop-of-war Saratoga -in tow, took their departure, leaving the Mississippi, and storeship -Supply in the harbor. A few days afterward the Plymouth arrived -from north China, bringing us papers containing an account of the -presidential inauguration. - -The Susquehanna and the Saratoga reached Peel island, after a pleasant -passage, on the 14th. After a stay there of four days, during which -the commodore sent parties of officers to explore the island, put a -quantity of live stock ashore in the custody of some American residents -at Port Lloyd, and also purchased an eligible lot for the government, -should it ever hereafter be required, for a coal depot, the ships -returned to Napa, bringing with them fish and turtle. They ascertained -that some twenty whalers had stopped at the island during the year for -refreshments. A parcel of long-nosed porkers turned loose by ships -passing, can only be reached by the aid of the rifle; but some of the -officers who took a crack at them, facetiously spoke in their letters -to the United States of their hunting the _wild boar_. - -Von Siebold, in his history of the discoveries in the Japan seas, -says the Bonin islands were first put down on a map published by the -Dutch hydrographer, Ortelius, in 1570, and are reported as having been -discovered in 1543, by Bernardo de Torres, who named them Malonbrigo -de los Hermanos. They were visited in 1595 by Captain Linschaten, of -the Dutch East India Company, and are on the map by Hondries in 1634. A -few years after they were visited by Captains Quast and Tasman of the -same company, who were in search of the Gen and Ken, or Gold and Silver -islands. These navigators determined their position with admirable -accuracy. Mention is made of them by Vris and Schaef, of the Dutch -East India Company in 1643. In 1650 on the map of Jansomous, and in -1680 by Van Kenlen. By later authorities they are omitted, and reappear -on charts in the following century as discovered by the Spanish Admiral -Cabrera Bueno, and are called Islas del Arzobispo. - -The Japanese history in the book San-kok-tou-ran-to-sito, mentions -these islands as discovered between 1592 and 1595. In 1675 a Japan -exploring expedition, specially authorized by the emperor, sailed -from Simoda, then an imperial and customhouse port, for the Bonin -islands. They were named by the Japanese the Munin Sima, and reported -as fit to be settled, and the importance of doing so was urged. The -Japanese counted more than eighty small rock islands. In 1826 they -were visited by an American whaler, Captain Coffin; in 1827, by the -Russian admiral, Lutke; and in 1828, by Capt. Beechy of the English -navy. The inhabitants at Port Lloyd, on Peel island, are about forty in -number; on the Bailey or Coffin group, there are living two families. -Nearly all these people are runaway sailors from whale-ships, who have -obtained wives from the Kanakas of the Sandwich islands, and so far as -their nationality is concerned, the Americans predominate. The oldest -settler at Port Lloyd is Nathaniel Savary, who acts as mayor of the -place, and carries out their self-made laws and regulations with the -assistance of two elders elected by a majority. - -As long as the Dutch held their fort Zeelandia, on Formosa, its -position and possession gave them great advantages in the eyes of the -Japanese, but its capture, after a prolonged siege, by the Chinese -pirate chief Coshinga, had a very injurious effect with the Japanese, -diminishing their prestige and weakening belief in their naval -supremacy. It is quite desirable to know the future prospects of the -Bonin islands. The adventitious aid of their possession would prove of -great advantage in a trade with Japan, being only a distance of two -days’ steaming from Yedo. - -On the 2d of July the squadron got under way for the bay of Yedo, -Japan, the “Susquehanna” towing the “Saratoga,” and the “Mississippi” -towing the “Plymouth.” The storeship “Supply” was left at the -anchorage, no doubt greatly to the regret of the natives, who, gazing -from the beach on our departure, hoped that they would not see us again. - -We rounded the southern end of the island with a heavy swell on, the -southwest monsoon prevailing at the time, and were soon heading up the -Pacific. - -Our patriotic remembrance of the return of our great national -anniversary was ahead of the people of our own native land; or is it -the “Fourth of July” to an American, until the sun of that day has -illumined forest, stream, and home, in his own country? At mid-day -then of our “Fourth,” when it was yet but eleven o’clock at night -of the third, in the United States the large old steamers, and the -sailing-vessels in their tow, going dead to windward, dressed with our -national ensigns, in latitude 28° 36′ north, and longitude 130° 42′ -east, running nearly abreast, fired seventeen guns each, in honor of -the day; and the “main-brace” being ordered to be spliced, “Jack” had -the opportunity of remembering it in a tot of grog. - -The next day, by signal from flag-ship, anchor-buoys were ordered -to be made of empty casks, the men were exercised with small arms -at target-firing, and ship’s company exercised at general and fire -quarters, previous to arriving at our port of destination. - -A believer in omens would have had an opportunity of indulging his -credulity, and interpreting, if he could, the meaning of a remarkable -meteor which shot athwart the sky on the morning of the 6th of July, -and was visible from the decks of the ships, when in two days’ run of -the bay of Yedo. It appeared as large in circumference as the crown of -a man’s hat. Its body was of the brilliancy and color of molten iron, -and glowed as if heated by incandescence, emitting all the while sparks -which trailed backward in its passage, like barbs of arrows. Its tail -was of a bluish transparency, which extended into an emerald-green hue, -terminating in a fiery, smoky bulb, resembling the flame of burning -tar. When first noticed, it seemed to shoot upward from a line on a -level with our quarter-hammock netting, in the southwest, and so near -did it appear to the ship, that for an instant it was imagined to be a -rocket from the sloop-of-war Plymouth—at the time in tow of us—and -designed to attract our attention. In its passage through the heavens, -which occupied the time in which one might count thirty, it described -a parabolic curve, illuminating as it went our hurricane-deck and -wheel-houses with astonishing clearness, and on reaching a point nearly -due north, occupied by a bank of dull roseate cloud, it burst like a -rocket and disappeared, leaving those who had the good fortune to see -it uttering exclamations of admiration and wonderment, and a rather -credulous corporal of marines who happened to be going his rounds at -the time, willing to take his “corporal” oath that the brilliant body -started within a few yards of our rail. The heat of the day preceding -was very great. - -Next day, being near the insular empire, target practice was continued; -old cartridges drawn, guns loaded and shotted, and preparations made -for removing the forward-rail for the clear working of our bow-guns. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - -When day broke on the morning of the 8th July we got our first sight -of the “_terra incognita_”—the hermetic land—the land which had been -invaded but never conquered—hence called the “virgin empire.” The -high, bold shores of Japan were before us—the “kingdom of the origin -of the sun.” - -Japan has been continually spoken of as the unknown land. It is -difficult to see with what correctness this designation should have -been given it, unless those countries only are known upon which the -physical eye of some numbers may have rested. Taking the extant -information at command, it can very properly be said, with Macfarlane, -that we “know more of the Japanese than we knew of the Turks a hundred -years ago;” and he might have added, than other nations knew of -America, though discovered half a century earlier than Japan. - -The works on the country are numerous; among them those of the Jesuits, -and the German and Swedish medical officers of the Dutch prison factory -at Dezima. The printed data of the former, and the archives of the -Jesuit headquarters at Rome and at other places, could furnish the -earliest and most thorough information. “_Les Lettres Edifiantes et -Curieuses_,” or the pages of Charlevoix, which tell of the labors -of the Jesuit pioneer missionary in Japan, Francis Xavier,—make it -anything but an unknown land. - -Then there are the books, whose size might well deter the stoutest, -but whose pages would well repay the industrious search of the -inquirer—the product of the close observation and assiduous -notation of Kœmpfer,[1] Thunberg, Siebold; and the Dezima -Opperhoofds—Titsinghe, Doeff, Meylan, and Warehouse Master Fischer, -in lesser size; the quaint accounts of old William Adams, pilot, and -Captain Saris, Englishmen; the work of the Russian Golownin, as far -as he could gather information, while undergoing his hard but perhaps -justly retributive imprisonment in Matsmai; the works of Sir Stamford -Raffles; Reports of the East India Company; the pages of the Asiatic -Journal, &c. - - [1] The work of Kœmpfer, to which reference, as to Japanese history, - is frequently made, singular to say, was never written by him. It was - written by one Camphay, governor-general of the Dutch East Indies, and - at one time the superintendent of the trade in Japan. The manuscript - was only given to Kœmpfer to bring home, and to place it in the - archives of the Dutch East India Company at Amsterdam; but instead of - complying with the trust, he took the pages with him to Germany, and - kept them until he died. After his death, more than a century ago, a - friend of his named Scheuchzer, residing in London, went immediately - to Germany, procured the manuscript, and it was first published in - Great Britain in English, and subsequently translated into other - languages. - - -With such sources of information as these, it would be a piece of -affectation to suppose the majority of the reading community without -some knowledge of the early and past history of Japan; but for such -as may possibly have not given it any attention, it may be well to -give a hurried glance at the early history of the country, as derived -from compilations of the before-cited authorities, and also down to -the condition of the empire at the time of our visit—which is to be -found in a fine synoptical article which appeared some time since in a -foreign Quarterly Review—without further acknowledgment. - -Well, then, to begin with the mythological. As the Japanese have it, -their origin was superhuman, and their primitive history is in this -wise: From primeval chaos arose a self-created supreme God, throned -in the highest heaven, to whom, with some brevity, is given the name, -_Ameno-mi-naka-nusimo-kami_. What then existed of a universe was -governed by seven celestial gods who next arose. The last of these, -not admiring the celibacy of his predecessors, with whom the goddesses -had dwelt as sisters, took unto himself a wife. The marital state, it -appears, had the effect of awakening his latent energy, and one day he -said to his spouse: “There should be somewhere a habitable earth; let -us seek it under the waters that are boiling beneath us.” - -Like Ithuriel, he possessed a spear, and thrusting it into the waters -he then withdrew it. The drops which fell from the spear—which, -perhaps, was weeping the puncture which he had given the aqueous -element—like the tears of Niobe, became solidified, and thus came into -existence the present insulated empire. - -Others, however, not having the fear of Japanese gods before their -eyes, have a perverseness in the belief, that the receding waters of -the deluge left bare Japan, or that it may have been since upheaved by -volcanic action from the mighty deep. - -The Adam of Japan was _Ten Sio Dai Dsin_. From him sprang the nation; -though _Syn Mou_ is represented as the founder of the empire. The -physical conformation of the Japanese indicates their Mongolian origin. - -The geography of the Japanese kingdom is included in a string of -islands on the northeast coast of Asia, not far distant from the main -land, commencing with the Kurile islands, a portion of which the empire -exercises sovereignty over, and extending to the straits of Van Diemen -on the south. The islands and uninhabited rocks are said to comprise -three thousand eight hundred and fifty; but Japan of the present day is -understood to include Yezo, Niphon, Kew Sew, and Sikok; among which the -principal is Niphon, Nipon, Zipon, Zipango, or Cipango, by which names -it has been called indifferently. It was for “Cipango” that Columbus -sailed from Palos, and from the masthead of the “Pinto” the western -world was first descried in 1492. Exactly fifty years afterward, -_Pinto_, a Portuguese first descried “Cipango,”—“the kingdom of the -origin of the sun.” - -The authentic history of Japan commences in 660, B. C., with the first -mortal ruler, surnamed the “Divine Conqueror.” In Niphon he built him -a _dairi_, or temple-palace dedicated to the sun goddess. From him all -the _mikados_, or sovereigns, claim to descend. - -These self-styled divine rulers, from ceasing to command their armies, -and intrusting military commands to kinsmen and others, came to -abdicating so early, that the heirs of their power were still mere -infants. These infants fell into the custody of others, who loved -them about as well as the Duke of Gloster did those of his brothers -he had conveyed to the Tower; and so the partisans of the legitimate -descent, and of usurpers, immersed the kingdom in a civil war. In favor -of the authority of an infant _mikado_, then threatened, came forth, -a champion named Yoritomo, who saved the throne, by his efforts, for -the imperiled juvenile sovereign, and for this service the regent -allowed the real power to remain in the hands of Yoritomo, under the -title of _sio-i-dai-ziogoon_, or “generalissimo fighting against the -barbarians.” Very soon these ziogoons, from generalissimos fighting -against barbarians, became generalissimos fighting against mikados. -They became tenants of power by will, not by courtesy; they saved -the spiritual head from overthrow, but they retained his temporal -kingdom for themselves; their offices of trust became offices of -power, and hereditarily so; and from Buddhist nunneries widows were -even called to govern for infant ziogoons. The spiritual emperor soon -became impotent in the hands of the military emperor, and the _dual_ -government gradually dwindled until the accession of the plebeian—the -self-made, the Napoleon of Japan—Taico Sama, to the ziogoonship, who -died in 1598, at the age of sixty-three, after having subdued _Corea_, -curtailed the power of the princes, abolished the feudal system, and -made the _mikado_, a mikado “about nothing!” - -It would, no doubt, be now entirely true to say, that the sceptre -wrenched from the mikado by the ziogoon, has in turn been wrested from -the ziogoon by a council of state, and the supreme authority of Japan -is now exercised by the president of the council, though the emperor is -the John Doe in whose name he speaks. - -Kublai-khan, when he ascended the Mongol throne, determined upon an -invasion of the Japanese empire from his dependency of Kaou-le. The -better to pave the way for this proceeding, he sent an embassador with -the following letter to Japan:— - -“The exalted emperor of the Mongols to the wang [king] of Niphon:— - -“I am the prince of a formerly small state, to which the adjacent lands -have united themselves, and my endeavor is to make inviolable truth -and friendship reign among us. What is more, my ancestors have, in -virtue of their splendid warrant from Heaven, taken possessions of Hia -dominions. The number of the distant countries, of the remote cities, -that fear our power and love our virtue, passes computation. When I -ascended the throne, the harmless people of Kaou-le were suffering -under the calamities of war. I immediately ordered a cessation of -hostilities, recalling the troops from beyond the frontiers to the -encampment of their colors. The prince of Kaou-le and his subjects -appeared at my court to give me thanks, and I treated them kindly, as -a father treats his children. So I intend that your servants shall be -treated. Kaou-le is my eastern frontier; Niphon lies near, and has from -the beginning held intercourse with the central empire. But during my -reign, not a single envoy has appeared to open a friendly intercourse -with me. I apprehend that the state of things is not, as yet, well -known in your country, whereupon I send envoys, with a letter, to make -you acquainted with my views, and I hope we may understand each other. -Already philosophers desire to see the whole world form one family. But -how may this one-family principle be carried into effect, if friendly -intercourse subsist not between the parties? I am resolved to call this -principle into existence, even should I be obliged to do so by force -of arms. It is now the business of the _wang_ of Niphon to decide what -course is most agreeable to him.” - -A contemptuous silence was the only answer that the Japanese returned -to this demand. The _ziogoon_ went immediately to work to put their -coasts in a state of defence, while the _mikado_ had stated prayers -offered up. - -The invaders, a hundred thousand strong, came as “the winds come when -forests are rended,” and by the winds, as they came, their “navies -were stranded.” The necks of those who escaped from shipwreck were -severed by the Japanese blades, and three alone were spared to bear -back to their country and the summer-state lord of Xanadu, the tale of -disaster, and the fate of his armada. This was in October of the year -1280. - -Of the advent of the Jesuits in Japan, three hundred years afterward, -and the simultaneous commencement of commercial intercourse by the -Portuguese; the butchery of the Christians at Simbara, (which, to -their eternal infamy be it said, was assisted by the Dutch,) and -the expulsion of the Portuguese; of the subsequent and continued -intercourse of the Dutch; and the repulse of other Europeans and -Americans, at later times, in their attempt to open a trade, down to -1837, there is no room to speak in these pages. In the introduction -to the “Voyages of the Morrison and Himmaleh,” by C. W. King, the -first of which ships was fired upon and driven from Japan in 1837, the -history of foreign intercourse is given in a succinct form; or more -elaborately in book i. of Macfarlane. - -The population of Japan has been both over and under estimated; -absurdly by the Russian captain Golownin, who estimated that of Yedo -alone, from what he heard, at eight millions. It can be but intelligent -speculation after all; and is no doubt most accurately stated when -it is put down as somewhat exceeding that of Great Britain. The best -information I could gain, as to the population of the city of Yedo, on -the occasion of the Mississippi’s third and last visit to Japan, was -that it numbered between fifteen and sixteen hundred thousand. - -I can not better close this hurried chapter than by giving short -extracts from two prominent English writers, published before our -sailing from the United States, and containing their speculations and -reflections, which it is well to contrast subsequently, with the result -of the American expedition. - -The first says:— - -“In every case we earnestly hope that the American expedition may -be conducted with firmness, but also with prudence and gentleness. -Should our very enterprising and energetic brethren begin with a too -free use of bowie-knives and Colt’s revolvers, the history of their -mission will all be written in characters of blood; slaughters and -atrocities will be committed, and an interesting people will be plunged -back into complete barbarity. Though unable to contend in the field -even with a small disciplined force well provided with artillery, and -good artillerymen, the Japanese, if we are correctly informed as to -their character, will brave death and die in heaps. We would not make -any positive assertion, but we apprehend the Americans will find that -little or nothing can be done by negotiation. Should force be resorted -to, the best means of proceeding would probably be to take possession -of one of the smaller islands, or of some peninsular or promontory that -might be easily fortified on the land side. A line of intrenchments -sufficiently strong to keep off any native force, might soon be made, -and easily strengthened afterward. On this strong basis negotiation -might probably be carried on with a better chance of success.” - -The latter says:— - -“Strange and singular as everything we have heard about Japan -undoubtedly is, nothing is so strange or so singular as the -determination of the inhabitants to resist all intercourse with their -fellow-creatures, except it be the fact that they have been able to -act upon the resolution with effect during two centuries. It is this -consideration which sheds a tinge of romance about the operations -of the American squadron. The attack upon Japan is more than an -expedition, it is an adventure. In the midst of the all-absorbing -prose of the every-day world we suddenly feel as if we were at once -transported to the domain of Ariosto and knight-errantry. The founders -of the system did ill to enlist against their cause the principle of -curiosity, the most constant and powerful impulse of frail humanity. -Let the plainest woman in the three kingdoms cover her face with a -thick brown veil, and appear to shun observation and she will soon be -followed by an inquisitive crowd. The flavor of forbidden fruit has -smacked racily on mortal lips from the days of Eve downward. Be the -impulse right or wrong it exists, and as it will most surely be acted -on, it must not be ignored. The affair, however, is one of far too -vital importance to be treated in a light or jesting spirit, for we -have every reason to suppose, and to fear, that the resistance of the -Japanese to the invaders will be of the most determined character. -Great bloodshed and great misery will probably precede the opening up -of Japan. However necessary, and however justifiable such a step may -be, we are not of those who can contemplate the slaughter of a gallant -people, however mistaken their cause, without a pang of regret.” - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - - -Before reaching the bay of Yedo, sounding-spars had been rigged out -from the end of the bowsprit of each steamer, from which depended -sounding-leads, that were kept constantly going as well as the leadsmen -in the “chains.” As previous knowledge of the water was rather -defective, the ships proceeded in with caution. The sweep of the bay is -a noble one, as you approach, and the morning being a clear and lovely -one, every object, from the strange-looking crafts coming continually -in sight, to the summits of the high shores, and bold bluffs, were -sharply defined. Then too, simultaneously with our first sight of -the _nolli me tangere_, we got our first sight of _the_ mountain of -Japan—_Foogee Yama_. - -Perhaps the incidents which transpired during our first short visit to -Japan, can be better conveyed by giving them as jotted down at the time. - -_July 8._—Ship cleared for action; fore and bow-rails and iron -stancheons taken down and stowed away; ports let down, guns -run out into position and shotted. Flag-ship made signal, -“Have no communication with shore; allow none from shore.” Nine -o’clock—standing up the outer bay of Yedo; a number of Japanese junks -in sight. Smaller boats, in considerable numbers, making for the -ships, and crossing their bows; but the sight of the revolving-wheels -makes them haul up, and they give us a wide berth as we hold our way -past them. To those in the boats who never before saw a steamship, -particularly two large war-steamers, towing sloops-of-war through the -water at a fast rate, how wonderful must be the sight! As the ships -approached the town of Uragawa, or Uraga (about three o’clock), a fort, -situated on a high hill, sent up a shell high into the air; and in -a little while after we heard the explosion of another. As they did -not appear to be aimed at us, but probably intended as signals, or to -warn us not to come to anchor in their bay, we kept on. A few moments -after stopping our wheels, long sharp-built boats of pine, fastened -with copper, and ornamented at the prow with a black tassel, that had -not been previously observed under the shadow of a high bluff, swarmed -off under oar and sail, and surrounded the ships. They were all fully -manned with men in uniform, and an old chap leaned over a rail in the -stern. One of the boats that reached us first, contained a mandarin -with two swords, who shook a letter at us, and then attempted to -board us on the port bow, but the presentation of a loaded musket, by -a sentinel, made him think a little while about it. He became much -enraged, turned almost white with anger, his crew keeping up the while -an awful pow-wow and noise; and, with them, he tries to board again, -where our rail was down, but a division of pikes staring them in the -face, and a steamer’s wheels kept revolving (rather ugly things for a -boat to get under), made them adjourn their determination. Drifting -aft to our port-gangway and finding the prospect no better, he put -off for shore, pointing to, and motioning that we must not let go our -anchor, drawing and sheathing his swords, and holding up a letter. -(One of these letters was thrown aboard of the Plymouth, written in -French and Dutch, warning us, if we anchored there, we did it at our -“peril.”) But our ships went in under their guns and let go their -anchors, forming a line broadside to shore, as previously ordered by -diagram from Commodore Perry. Boats continued to circle around us, the -occupants of some of them appearing to be making drawings of us, but -they took care to keep at a respectable distance. In the evening, the -lieutenant-governor of the province, Kayama Yesaimon, came off in a -boat with streamers, and his rank being announced, he was allowed to -come on board the flag-ship. The commodore would not receive him, but -turned him over to his flag-lieutenant. In the meantime they commenced -the formation of a cordon of boats around the ships. The Japanese -functionary was first asked why this was being done. He said it was -Japanese “custom.” He was at once told that it was an _American_ -“custom” not to allow any such thing; that these boats must be sent -away, not only from the flag, but the other ships; and if not away in -fifteen minutes, they would be fired into. The boats left for shore. -The governor wished to know what these ships had come there for. He was -told that our commodore had a letter from our chief magistrate to his -emperor. He said that their laws would only allow them to receive the -letter at Nangasaki; that he would inform the authorities at Yedo of -the arrival of the ships and of the letter; and that it would be four -days before any answer could be received. The commodore directed it to -be told him that he would wait three days and a half, and if, at the -end of that time, there was not some one to receive our president’s -letter, that with five hundred men he would land, and deliver the -letter himself. The governor then went ashore. In the evening the -steam-chimney was ordered to be kept protected; no coal to be taken -from the bunkers so as to expose the engines; steam to be kept up, and -every suitable person on board ship directed to stand strict guard -during the night, armed with cutlass, carbine, &c., and blue and red -signal lights agreed upon between the ships, to be hoisted upon the -appearance of any burning junks sent down upon us, or other danger -during the night. - -_July 9._—Still at anchor off the harbor and town of Uraga, each -ship with springs on her cable. Uraga is the seaport of Yedo, and -said to contain twenty thousand inhabitants. Innumerable junks, with -white-laced sails, have been continually arriving and departing since -we have been here, having to be examined by officers of the customs, -both going up and coming down. We can only see a portion of the town, -the remainder being shut in by the narrow entrance to its harbor. -During my mid-watch, last night, the Japanese ashore were striking, -at intervals, a sweet and deep-toned bell, probably as a tocsin; -while from the stern of each of the immense number of boats, anchored -side by side, in shore, shone bright lights through lanterns of every -color, making one long necklace of light, in front of the town of -Humai, situated in the midst of forts and water-batteries. At sunrise, -through a spy-glass could be discerned a number of fortifications along -shore, extending up to a point which marks the entrance to the inner -bay. There was also visible a number of long striped-cloth curtains, -containing armorial figures of the different princes of the empire, -the encampment of whose soldiers they are designed to mark out. The -soldiers, like those previously seen in the boats, wear loose sacks of -red, green, or blue, unconfined in front, and having in white on their -backs the insignia of the prince whom they serve. There was a great -deal of marching and countermarching, with gay banners, &c., between -the different forts. The calibre of the guns in the embrasures, could -not be made out, being kept under cover, or, as the sailors say, in -“petticoats.” On a very well-designed fort, circular in plan, intended -to protect the entrance to the harbor of Uraga, were a number of the -natives at work. About nine o’clock, boats well-armed were sent from -each ship, with lead-lines, to ascertain the depth of water between -the ships and the shore. These boats pulled as high as the upper fort, -where the uppermost one was surrounded by Japanese guard-boats, who -ordered them back, but did not attempt anything else, some of our oars -being trailed, and the curtains over the muskets raised up for their -edification. Our boats paid no further attention to them, but continued -to stand in and pull close down the shore, getting soundings as they -went, and at the same time making a rather bold reconnoissance of their -guns and forts, who did not fire upon them, as many watching from the -ships, at one time thought they would do. - -_July 10_—SUNDAY.—A number of boats came off and rowed around the -ship; troops, apparently, collecting on shore. Japanese at work on a -fort just opposite to us. Weather clear. The steep shores, well-wooded, -looking fine as they are brightened by the sun-light. Evening—A whale -blowed not far from the ship. Foogee Yama obscured by cloud. During the -day, the capstan having been dressed as usual, and books distributed, -the chaplain gave out the hymn, commencing commencing— - - “Before Jehovah’s awful throne, - Ye nations, bow with sacred joy,” - -and with the aid of many of the fine voices of the crew, and the -assistance of the bass instruments of the band, in sight of heathen -temples, and, perhaps, in the hearing of their worshippers, swelled up -“Old Hundred” like a deep diapason of old ocean. - -_July 11._—By order of the commodore, the Mississippi was ordered to -get under way, and stood up the straits, following slowly after our -boats sent to sound the inner bay, to ascertain the practicability of -reaching the capital, our present anchorage being twenty-five miles -from the city of Yedo. Passed close in under the chief fort, on the -point beyond which no “barbarian” ship had ever been permitted to go. -Fort did not fire. On debouching we entered a magnificent bay, of great -extent, bounded on its western side by picturesque slopes, bold bluffs, -with here and there a village between them, deeply indented coves, -and a well-wooded island, crowned with a three-gun battery, which -on our survey chart was called “Perry island.” Our boats continued -to sound ahead during the day, the Japanese guard-boats enveloping -them and attempting to impede their progress by getting across their -track, but attempted nothing further. Two little brass howitzers, on -each of our forward guards, loaded with grape and cannister, would -probably have caused some dancing among them if they had. On the east -of us, on a long low sand beach, through a spy-glass could be seen an -encampment of Japanese troops, near a breastwork, dressed in black -figured clothes, and surmounted with banners. This was probably an -“army of observation.” We continued to hold our way up the bay until -a late hour, as far as a high bluff of clay-stone, which was named -“Mississippi bluff,” as a token that it was nearer to the palace of -the ziogoon of Japan than any foreign ship had ventured to go before. -Our boats were then taken in tow, and we started on our return to the -anchorage we had left in the morning. A two-sworded mandarin attempted -to make his boat fast to one of our boats astern, that he might get -a tow back, and I was surprised to hear him ask in English, “Are you -going back?” The sailors in the boats were ordered to cut his line if -he made fast to them. He was much angered as our wheels left him in the -distance. We regarded his proposition for a tow, as cool as a fellow -who would play spy on you all day, and then ask you to take him home in -a carriage at night. On our way back we passed through a flotilla of -their boats, when our chief engineer opened our steam-whistle. Never -were human beings more astounded, when the unearthly noise reached -their ears, the fellows at the sculls dropped their oars and stood -aghast. To all of the day’s doings the inhabitants of the different -towns, and the troops strung along shore, have been constant and -watchful observers. They could not understand what our movements meant. -Jonathan’s boldness had dumbfounded them. - -_July 12._—Governor of Uraga came aboard and urged Nangasaki as the -proper place at which Japan could receive foreign communications. -Commodore Perry replied that his government had sent him to _Yedo_, -and that he would go nowhere else to deliver his letter. The Japanese -officials then pretended to hold a conference ashore, and afterward -brought off word that they would receive the letter at a point which -they would make known. It was afterward arranged that the reception -of the letter was to be by a high officer, sent from the capital for -the especial purpose; the place, a bay below the town of Uraga, and -that it would take two days for them to get up a building for the -ceremony. They said they had selected this spot for its privacy, -that their rabble population might not be present; and as the whole -thing was without precedent with them, and against their laws;—also, -probably, because they did not wish us to get a sight of their towns, -or a nearer view of their forts. The governor and his two interpreters -at this interview remained aboard some time, and were very observant -of everything, and evinced more information than could have been -expected. The engine-room astonished them, though with Japanese -self-possession they concealed much. They laughed, and were untiring -in their attention to cherry brandy. On being shown a daguerreotype, -they immediately called its name. On a globe they pointed out Boston, -New York, Philadelphia, New Orleans, &c.; gave the boundaries of -Mexico, and said our country had a part of Mexico; if our mission was -a peaceful one, why did we have _four_ ships-of-war to bring _one_ -letter? (Commodore told them that it was a greater compliment to their -emperor—probably!) Wished to know why the steam-vessel “Mississippi” -went up the inner bay so far? It was replied that the commodore had -more ships in these waters, and if they should render it necessary that -they would all come with him, the next time he came; he desired an -anchorage less exposed than the one we were then lying at. - -_July 13._—Some little suspicion of treachery ashore; much conference -going on among chief mandarins. Boats were sent from the ships to go -and sound off the mouth of the appointed place, to see whether any -of the ships could get in sufficiently near to cover and protect the -landing of the boats; orders issued prescribing who were to compose the -landing party; some will have to stay on board the ships; poor fellows! -Bad day for Japanese to-morrow, if they attempt with us the treacherous -game that they played upon Golownin:— - - “_The Americans must not quit their wooden walls._”—LONDON PRESS. - -_July 14._—Bright and beautiful day. Much activity and preparation for -the landing; boats being lowered away, percussion-caps distributed, -and twenty rounds of ball-cartridges delivered to each man; officers -rigging in undress uniforms, and arming mostly with cutlasses and -Colt’s six-shooters. Quartermasters fastening American ensigns on -pikes. General orders received early in the morning. The Susquehanna -and Mississippi will anchor in the position assigned them. The Plymouth -will retain her present position, and the Saratoga to get into her -berth if possible, but not to get out of range of the forts and town. -The ships will watch the proceedings on shore, having their guns primed -and pointed, and their remaining boats alongside, with arms in them, -ready in a moment to shove ashore, if the commanding officers think -there is need of them. The boats which carry the officers, sailors, -and marines on shore, are all to have anchors, and after landing their -respective crews, are to haul off about fifty feet from shore and -anchor, keeping their men at their arms and watching the proceedings on -shore, and if they are called on shore the officers of the boats will -land with all but two men, who are to be left as boat-keepers; bread -and water in the boats. At daybreak the Susquehanna and Mississippi -steam-frigates tripped their anchors, dropped down, and anchored -immediately across the entrance of the bay where we were to land, to -protect and cover the landing, having springs on their cables, that -their broadside of guns might be trained on the shore. The sloop-of-war -Plymouth commanded the town of Uraga, and the Saratoga, that of Humai, -and the forts surrounding it. At nine o’clock, our boats armed and -manned, went alongside of the flag-ship, where were the boats of the -Saratoga and Plymouth. After some delay the boats moved ashore. The -captain of the Susquehanna and officers, leading; Captain Walker of the -Saratoga and officers next, then the Mississippi’s boats, in the first -of which I was, under Lieutenant Taylor. Following in line came the -remaining boats of all the ships, with sailors, marines, two bands, &c. - -The place selected by the Japanese for the delivery of the letter, -was a bay of some mile and a quarter in depth, surrounded by an -amphitheatre of bold hills, its entrance being narrow, and defended -by forts on either side. At the head of this bay, following the line -of a crescent beach of black and white sand, ankle-deep, is the town -of Gorihama. In the distance, with its veil of blue, and patches of -snow, towering up fifteen thousand feet, shone the extinct volcano -of Foogee. The boats, as they pulled in, presented a fine sight; the -“flower-flag,” as the Chinese call it, waving gracefully from the -stern of each boat; the bright muskets shining in the sun, and the -epaulettes glistening. The landing was done in fine order, and with -great promptitude, under the command of Major Zeilen, of the marine -corps. Each man, as the boat touched the beach, jumped ashore, and -took his proper place in line, which, when formed, presented a bold -front, notwithstanding officers and men all told, it scarcely exceeded -four hundred men; and encircling them a few paces in rear, and as far -as one could see, on either hand, in horse-shoe form, were Japanese -troops, who had been collected there for the occasion, armed with -spears and bows, long bayonet brass-mounted muskets, and matchlocks, -with ready fuses, coiled on their right arms. In their front, -equi-distant, sat their officers on stools, armed with two swords. Near -by, not very large, were a number of horses richly caparisoned about -the head, and with gaudy housings, belonging to the officers. Extending -all around were canvass curtains supported by stakes driven in the -ground, with different insignias painted on the front, and festooned -with blue cords and tassels; at the termination of each one floated the -colored flag of each particular prince, whose men were present. The -shining and gilded lacquered broadbrims of the Japanese; the varied -costumes, brilliant colors, flapping flags, and curtain enclosures, all -overhung by a dense green of trees, as the eye took them in, made one -think that he had come to be a spectator of some joust or tourney. The -Japanese say they had five thousand men present, but I hardly think -there were as many, unless some were hid in the town, whose houses in -our direction were concealed behind temporary walls of thatching straw. - -A salute of thirteen guns from the flag-ship, which caused some little -stir among the Japanese troops, who did not seem exactly to understand -it, announced that the commodore and his immediate suite had left, -in his barge, for shore. In a little while he landed on a small -jutty, made of rice-straw and sand, passing through a street formed -of his own officers, to his place in line, when the squadron band -struck up “Hail Columbia” in a style, and with a force that made the -Japanese open their ears (they may have to listen to it again), and -the hills around sent each note of “Hail Columbia” back again. “Hail -Columbia” never sounded better. The column of escort with the marines -in front, a stalwart sailor with the broad pennant; commodore and -staff; suite of officers; boxes containing president’s letter, &c.; two -men over six feet high, each, with pikes upon which American ensigns -were fastened, with revolving rifles slung across their shoulders; -sailors with bronzed muskets; Mississippi’s band, &c.; and marines -then marched to the building for the ceremony; shown the way by two -Japanese officials. The sailors were in blue trousers and white frocks, -prettily bisected with the slings of their cartridge boxes, and wore -blue cloth caps, with bands of red, white, and blue, ornamented with -thirteen stars in white. The marines were in full uniform. The room -of ceremony was reached by passing through a small canopied court; -enclosed with primitive landscape screens, the floor of which was -covered with matting. The place of audience was a room in a thatched -building, limited in space, and entirely open in the direction of the -court, ornamented with gauze curtains as drapery. At the back of -the room were representations of shrubbery, and of cranes wheeling -in flight over it, while on the two remaining sides, were hung large -blue flags, having in the centre one large and eight smaller satellite -representations. Overhead you looked up to thatching, and each rafter -was marked with Japanese characters, as if the building had been -originally constructed at some other place, probably at Yedo, and sent -down for erection. On the left of the room as you entered by ascending -one step, was seated the chief Japanese functionary, appointed by the -emperor to receive the president’s letter, the prince of Idzoo; beside -him was the prince of the province of Iwami; behind him quite a number -of two-sworded mandarins. The chief man was attired in a maroon silk -robe, with an over-garment of red, blue cloth socks, with places left -for the great toe. On the back of the red over-garment, were figures -worked in white, some resembling cornucopias. His suite were attired in -the same manner with slight exceptions. On the other side of the room -were placed ornamental chairs, with well-designed arm-rests, in which -were seated Commodore Perry and suite. - -Dr. Williams, of Canton, was present as interpreter of the Japanese -language; although his services were not called into requisition. Mr. -A. L. C. Portman, the commodore’s clerk, as it was most agreeable to -the Japanese, acted as interpreter in the Dutch language. The floor -of the chamber was covered with mats, having spread over them in the -centre of the room, cloths resembling red felt blankets, indifferently -dyed. After the manner of the Japanese, two interpreters were in -attendance on the prince, one of them squatted on the floor near our -interpreter, partially facing the chief and another (Kayama Yesaimon, -governor of Uraga) on his haunches immediately in front of him. Midway, -in rear of the room, was placed a brightly-lacquered red chest, -resting upon eight feet, with its deep and projecting lid, confined by -tasselled cords of blue. The gilt ornamental design in front resembled -the rose of the Gothic style. The officers of the ships occupied the -court facing the platform. - -Everything being announced ready, and obeisance interchanged between -the prince and commodore, beautiful rosewood-boxes, hinged, clamped, -and clasped with gold, having inscriptions with German-text letters, -let in with gold on their tops, which had been carried by side-boys, -were then brought in, and displayed upon the chest. Mr. Portman opened -them to assure the Japanese of the presence of the letters; and the -interpreter was directed to inform the prince, which was done, one -interpreter whispering to the other, that in the boxes were also -translations of our president’s letter, in Dutch and Chinese. The -credentials from the emperor empowering the prince of Idzoo to receive -the letter, were then handed over by the prince, and taken charge of -by the flag-lieutenant, having been duly examined the day before on -shipboard. The letter of the president was as follows:— - - _MILLARD FILLMORE_, - PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, - TO HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY, - _THE EMPEROR OF JAPAN_. - - _Great and Good Friend!_ - - I send you this public letter by Commodore Matthew C. Perry, and - officer of highest rank in the Navy of the United States, and - commander of the squadron now visiting your Imperial Majesty’s - dominions. - - I have directed Commodore Perry to assure your Imperial Majesty that - I entertain the kindest feelings toward your Majesty’s person and - government; and that I have no other object in sending him to Japan, - but to propose to your Imperial Majesty that the United States and - Japan should live in friendship, and have commercial intercourse with - each other. - - The constitution and laws of the United States forbid all interference - with the religious or political concerns of other nations. I have - particularly charged Commodore Perry to abstain from every act which - could possibly disturb the tranquillity of your Imperial Majesty’s - dominions. - - The United States of America reach from ocean to ocean, and our - territory of Oregon and state of California lie directly opposite to - the dominions of your Imperial Majesty. Our steamships can go from - California to Japan in eighteen days. - - Our great state of California produces about sixty millions of dollars - in gold, every year, besides silver, quicksilver, precious stones, - and many other valuable articles. Japan is also a rich and fertile - country, and produces many very valuable articles. Your Imperial - Majesty’s subjects are skilled in many of the arts. I am desirous that - our two countries should trade with each other, for the benefit both - of Japan and the United States. - - We know that the ancient laws of your Imperial Majesty’s government do - not allow of foreign trade except with the Dutch. But as the state of - the world changes, and new governments are formed, it seems to be wise - from time to time to make new laws. There was a time when the ancient - laws of your Imperial Majesty’s government were first made. - - About the same time, America, which is sometimes called the New World, - was first discovered and settled by the Europeans. For a long time - there were but a few people, and they were poor. They have now become - quite numerous; their commerce is very extensive; and they think that - if your Imperial Majesty were so far to change the ancient laws as to - allow a free trade between the two countries, it would be extremely - beneficial to both. - - If your Imperial Majesty is not satisfied that it would be safe, - altogether, to abrogate the ancient laws which forbid foreign trade, - they might be suspended for five or ten years, so as to try the - experiment. If it does not prove as beneficial as was hoped, the - ancient laws can be restored. The United States often limit their - treaties with foreign states to a few years, and then renew them or - not, as they please. - - I have directed Commodore Perry to mention another thing to your - Imperial Majesty. Many of our ships pass every year from California to - China; and great numbers of our people pursue the whale fishery near - the shores of Japan. It sometimes happens in stormy weather that one - of our ships is wrecked on your Imperial Majesty’s shores. In all such - cases we ask and expect, that our unfortunate people should be treated - with kindness, and that their property should be protected, till we - can send a vessel and bring them away. We are very much in earnest in - this. - - Commodore Perry is also directed by me to represent to your Imperial - Majesty that we understand there is a great abundance of coal and - provisions in the empire of Japan. Our steamships, in crossing the - great ocean, burn a great deal of coal, and it is not convenient to - bring it all the way from America. We wish that our steamships and - other vessels should be allowed to stop in Japan and supply themselves - with coal, provisions, and water. They will pay for them, in money, - or anything else your Imperial Majesty’s subjects may prefer; and we - request your Imperial Majesty to appoint a convenient port in the - southern part of the empire, where our vessels may stop for this - purpose. We are very desirous of this. - - These are the only objects for which I have sent Commodore Perry with - a powerful squadron to pay a visit to your Imperial Majesty’s renowned - city of Yedo: friendship, commerce, a supply of coal, and provisions - and protection for our shipwrecked people. - - We have directed Commodore Perry to beg your Imperial Majesty’s - acceptance of a few presents. They are of no great value in - themselves, but some of them may serve as specimens of the articles - manufactured in the United States, and they are intended as tokens of - our sincere and respectful friendship. - - May the Almighty have your Imperial Majesty in his great and holy - keeping! - - In witness whereof I have caused the great seal of the United States - to be hereunto affixed, and have subscribed the same with my name, - at the city of Washington in America, the seat of my government, on - the thirteenth day of the month of November, in the year one thousand - eight hundred and fifty-two. - - _Your Good Friend_, - MILLARD FILLMORE. - _By the President._ - EDWARD EVERETT, - _Secretary of State_. - -Accompanying this letter was one from Commodore Perry, merely repeating -the language embraced in the instructions from the secretary of state:— - - TO HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY, - _THE EMPEROR OF JAPAN_. - - The undersigned, Commander-in-chief of all the naval forces of the - United States of North America, stationed in the East India, China, - and Japan seas, has been sent by his government to this country on a - friendly mission, with ample powers to negotiate with the government - of Japan, touching certain matters which have been fully set forth in - the letter of the President of the United States; copies of which, - together with copies of the letter of credence of the undersigned, in - the English, Dutch, and Chinese languages, are herewith transmitted. - - - The original of the President’s letter, and of the letter of credence, - prepared in a manner suited to the exalted station of your Imperial - Majesty, will be presented by the undersigned, in person, when it may - please your Majesty to appoint a day for his reception. - - The undersigned has been commanded to state that the President - entertains the most friendly feelings toward Japan, but has been - surprised and grieved to learn that when any of the people of the - United States go of their own accord, or are thrown by the perils - of the sea, within the dominions of your Imperial Majesty, they are - treated as if they were your worst enemies. The undersigned refers to - the cases of the American ships ‘Morrison,’‘Ladoga,’ and ‘Lawrence.’ - - With the Americans, as indeed with all Christian people, it is - considered a sacred duty to receive with kindness, and to succor and - protect all, of whatever nation, who may be cast upon their shores; - and such has been the course of the Americans, with respect to all - Japanese subjects who have fallen under their protection. - - The government of the United States desires to obtain from that of - Japan, some positive assurance that persons who may be hereafter - shipwrecked on the coast of Japan, or driven by stress of weather into - her ports, shall be treated with humanity. - - The undersigned is commanded to explain to the Japanese that the - United States are connected with no government in Europe, and that - their laws do not interfere with the religion of their own citizens, - much less with that of other nations. - - That they inhabit a great country which lies directly between Japan - and Europe, and which was discovered by the nations of Europe about - the same time that Japan herself was first visited by Europeans; - that the portion of the American continent lying nearest to Europe, - was first settled by emigrants from that part of the world; that its - population has rapidly spread through the country until it has reached - the shores of the Pacific ocean; that we have now large cities, from - which, with the aid of steam-vessels, we can reach Japan in eighteen - or twenty days; that our commerce with all this region of the globe is - rapidly increasing, and the Japanese seas will soon be covered with - our vessels. - - Therefore as the United States and Japan are becoming every day - nearer and nearer to each other, the President desires to live in - peace and friendship with your Imperial Majesty; but no friendship can - long exist unless Japan ceases to act toward Americans as if they were - her enemies. - - However wise this policy may originally have been, it is unwise and - impracticable, now that the intercourse between the two countries is - so much more easy and rapid than it formerly was. - - The undersigned holds out all these arguments, in the hope that the - Japanese government will see the necessity of averting unfriendly - collision between the two nations, by responding favorably to the - propositions of amity, which are now made in all sincerity. - - Many of the large ships-of-war destined to visit Japan, have not - yet arrived in these seas, though they are hourly expected; and the - undersigned, as an evidence of his friendly intentions, has brought - but four of the smaller ones, designing, should it become necessary, - to return to Yedo in the ensuing spring, with a much larger force. - - But it is expected that the government of your Imperial Majesty - will render such return unnecessary by acceding at once to the very - reasonable and pacific overtures contained in the President’s letter, - and which will be further explained by the undersigned on the first - fitting occasion. - - With the most profound respect for your Imperial Majesty, and - entertaining a sincere hope that you may long live to enjoy health and - happiness, the undersigned subscribes himself, - - (_Signed_) M. C. PERRY, - _Commander-in-chief of the United States Naval Forces - in the East India, China, and Japan seas._ - - U. S. Steam-Frigate Susquehanna, - Off the coast of Japan, July 7, 1853. - -A brief pause followed the delivery of the letters, the Japanese -appearing dispirited, and their prince as if the day’s doings might -result to him in being compelled to perform the “Happy Despatch” of -his country; the commodore directed the interpreter to say, that as -it would take some time to deliberate on the letter of the president, -he should not wait for an answer, but would return in the spring; that -he would leave in a few days for Canton, by way of the great Loo-Choo -island, and would be happy to take any commands they might have. Owing -to our pronunciation of the word “Loo-Choo,” perhaps, they did not -seem to understand the latter part of this. The interpreter was then -directed to tell them, that China was now in a state of revolution; -that the rebels had taken Nanking, Ningpo, Amoy, and Cheang-foo. The -Japanese interpreter, apparently for himself, asked what was the -cause of the revolution. The commodore commenced a reply by saying, -“Religion,” then correcting himself, said “Dissatisfaction with the -government on the part of the people.” The interpreter reflected -awhile, and then said he could not say anything to his prince about -revolutions, but could only speak about the letter. The governor of -Uraga then rose, placed the president’s letter in the lacquered chest, -and tied the cords; then, turning, bowed very low, intimating that the -audience was concluded; the prince rising and saluting as we retired. - -The column of escort then reformed, and returned to the beach where we -landed, in the same order in which we had come, passing down the front -of the line of Japanese soldiers, many a scowling fellow meanwhile -looking daggers at us; and their officers, affecting an indifference -to the scene, which they could not have felt, perhaps thinking how -agreeable a thing it would be, to hold one of those Americans on the -end of one of their blades, as a fork, and hack him with the other as a -knife; if they only dared to try. So closed the day that is to mark the -opening of Japan to the world. America has said, “Open, sesame!” - -I said to Major Zeilen, of the marine corps (a fine old soldier), -the day before we landed, “Well, major, they have our cages ashore?” -“No, sir; no caging to-morrow,” said he, “it will be fight to the -death!” Our men marched past the Japanese troops with the greatest -indifference, making such remarks as, “Jack, give us a chaw of -tobacco.” “Robinson,” said the officer of the deck to a six-foot -quartermaster who was to carry an American ensign, “don’t you let them -take that away from you, to-day.” Robinson said, “Well, sir, they may -do it, but the man who takes it _won’t be able to carry it after_ he -gets it.” - -In the afternoon, of the day of the landing, the steamers got underway, -passed the point or “Rubicon Fort,” as it was named, and went into -anchorage in the inner bay, which had been sounded out by boats under -cover of the Mississippi, three days before. In doing so we got the -best view of the line of fortifications, which extend from a point on -the western side, marking the narrowest part of the outer, or entrance -to the inner bay, down to the city of Uraga. The first fort, built -very well, was a kind of curtain-wall with four embrasures, fronted -by an artificial plateau sloping to the water’s edge, and protected -in the rear by a deep triangular excavation in high sandstone, whose -sides sloped to the area below, and must have been made after much -labor. This contained a barrack building, and the entrance was by a -narrow “grotto pausilipo,” cut through a hill behind. Next, in a small -indentation in the shore, was a circular fort, not very extensive, -containing houses for troops, and having guns in barbette. The third -was on a small circular promontory of some size. The space fortified -was mostly occupied by a steep wedge-shaped hill, and was pierced for -four guns. The fourth, divided from the third by a small town, as the -third was divided from the second, was a rampart of earth and masonry, -with a parapet, built across a narrow gorge, surmounted by a high -hill with a small crown-battery, from which the shells were fired on -our arrival. The principal and best fort, of some dimension, not yet -completed, was situated on the north side of the entrance to the harbor -of Uraga. This battery was placed some eighty feet above the water, -the Japanese having no doubt learned, from their Dutch _confreres_, -that during a calm, at this elevation, they might, by a ricochet-shot, -reach the ships of an enemy even seven hundred yards distant. They had -also cut into perpendicular steps the ground between this fort and the -water, that shot may be stopped in ricochet firing, and their effect -lessened if not destroyed. There were no crown batteries visible. Their -guns were under cover, and their calibre could not be ascertained, -but it is doubtful whether they were of the calibre to render harbor -defences efficient. - -As soon as the tide served, after our anchoring in the inner bay, the -Saratoga and Plymouth got underway, stood up and joined us. - -The next day the commodore came aboard of the Mississippi, when his -broad-pennant was hoisted, the anchor hove up, and with boats ahead -to make soundings, we stood up the bay, running nearer to the great -capital of the empire than ship of any foreigner had gone before. -The Japanese troops on shore kept watch on our movements, and their -guard-boats rowed up in company with ours, but did not attempt to -impede or molest them. Having gone up and made soundings, and a -reconnoissance, until the water began to shoal, we put the ship about -and returned to where we had left the Susquehanna. In the evening a -Japanese functionary who had been looking with much solicitude upon our -movements, went on board of the flag-ship, and said, “He hoped we would -not attempt to go up their bay any farther, if we did there would be -trouble.” He was told that if it became necessary to bring our whole -squadron into their waters, that it was necessary that the ships should -have a less exposed anchorage than the one we had occupied off Uraga, -and the only way that such an anchorage could be found out, was by -surveys and soundings. - -On the 16th boats were sent down to survey and ascertain the depth of -water in the cove which opens on the left hand just after entering the -inner bay in which is situated the Saru-Sima, by some called “Perry -island.” The steamers followed during the day down to this anchorage, -but the wind proving light and baffling, the sailing ships did not -get there until evening, one of them meanwhile having drifted afoul -of the other, on having to come suddenly to anchor, and carrying away -a flying-jib boom. Here, before dusk, a Japanese official, who spoke -Dutch, brought off as presents game-fowls which had beautiful plumage, -lacquered-ware, some of their small pipes and mild tobacco, and brocade -interwoven with gold thread. These were refused until they consented to -receive presents in return. They would not give one of their blades nor -receive one of our swords; such an exchange did not indicate friendship -according to their ideas, nor was the parting with any Japanese arms -allowed by their laws. They expressed great desire to know when we -should leave, and manifested much solicitude and anxiety about our -remaining. This curiosity was not gratified. - -We had now been in their waters about eight days, during which we -had only one opportunity of noticing things and people, near by on -shore, and then for not a very long time. But what we had been able -to observe, assured us that the Japanese were a superior race, though -they might belong to the same variety of the human family as their -pig-tail neighbors. Their complexions were better, their features -more regular, they had not a great obliquity of eye; their manners -were more collected and impressive, their bearing more dignified, -their costume less sacerdotal; and their crowns, instead of displaying -a patch of hair the size of a dinner-plate behind, with a pendent -plait, were shaven in an oval on the top, around which the hair was -brushed perpendicularly, and pomatumed, terminating in a tie, from -which the united ends, adhering together with the pomatum, laid like -a cheroot-cigar in form, the end pointing to the brow, in the centre -of the place that the razor has denuded. They look like the literary -gentlemen whose bald heads cause their foreheads to run back nearly -to their coat-collar. Certain it is that they can hardly be deemed -descendants of the son of Manoah, of whom it was prophesied—“_and no -razor shall come on his head_.” - -Their boats were sharp, and by the continued action of the -sculls—instead of rowing on their sides—were impelled with greater -speed than the boats of the celestials; while the nice bows to their -junks indicated great superiority, and the single white canvass sail, -stretched by a yard from their enormous mast, was far more pleasant to -the eye and sensible than the dingy mat-sail of the Chinaman. Their -plan of reducing sail is singular: instead of lessening the hoist of -the sail as other nations do, as in reefing, they reduce the width of -their sail by unlacing a cloth from either side. We did not on this -visit get in the vicinity of the large capital but could form some idea -of its consumption by the immense number of coasting-junks for ever -going up and returning, keeping white the bay, with their singular -sails, in centre of which black characters told the district they were -from, or it was indicated by strips of black cloth hanging on either -end of the yard. It was soon apparent, and the Japanese were no doubt -aware that we knew it, that if it should become necessary to resort to -offensive measures, that the blockading of the custom-port of Uraga, -and the stoppage of the passage of their junks with their supplies to -the immense city, would make them very effective. Their forts would not -have been able to have raised the blockade; we could have kept out of -the reach of their guns, and peppered them with the long range of our -own. - -On Sunday morning, July 17, at daybreak, we lifted anchor, and the -Susquehanna with the Saratoga in tow, and the Mississippi towing the -Plymouth, we proceeded down the outer bay, and left for a time the -waters of Japan, numbers on shore and the troops on the parapets of the -forts of Kami Saki looking at us, and apparently much pleased with the -movement. This time we kept down the opposite side of the bay from the -one by which we had arrived, and by eleven o’clock we were abreast of -Misaki Awa, or the southernmost point of the bay on the east, off which -we noticed swimming a number of seals. The natives in the small boats, -having gotten more confidence, on our approach, pulled as near to us -as the revolving-wheel would permit them. We ran in sight of the large -volcanic island, named on the Dutch charts as Vries, but called Oho -Sima, or Bird island, by the Japanese. Evening saw us threading our way -through a group of islands, whose barren surfaces presented a desolate -sight. One of them was Fatisisio, the penal settlement or Botany Bay of -Japan. - -On the 18th a man fell overboard from the Plymouth, but by cutting -away, promptly, a life-buoy which he struck out for and reached, and -promptly lowering away a boat, he was saved. I could not but recollect -that there was a man overboard from the same ship the day before, but -under different circumstances, as was told by the half-raised ensigns -at the peaks of the four ships. Poor Jack had died after we had gotten -to sea, and the ocean which had been his home during life, before -nightfall was to cover him with its waves. The boatswain’s call was not -“Heave-to,” as to-day, but piped, which was echoed through the ship by -each of his mates, “All hands bury the dead” and as the sun went down, -with two of the iron messengers, which he had been proud to have hurled -at the enemies of the star-flag, tied to his feet, and wrapped in the -hammock in which with stormy lullaby he had often swung, and swinging, -dreamed of home and its endearments, poor Jack was launched into the -sea, and soon sank “deeper than ever plummet sounded.” - -The next day we encountered a heavy swell and a stiff breeze, it then -became squally, and there was every indication about the horizon of -bad weather approaching. As it was getting quite rough, and there -being danger of parting the towing-hawsers, the sloops-of-war were -cast off from the steamers, the Saratoga being signaled to make the -best of her way to Shanghae, and the Plymouth to proceed to our next -place of rendezvous—Loo-Choo. By meridian of the 20th we had a strong -gale of wind on us; top-gallant masts were sent down, top-masts -housed, and storm-sails bent. At three o’clock the ship pitched -away her head-sounding spars, springing the bowsprit in the cap; -but the wreck of the spars was gotten on board, so as to give us no -trouble by becoming entangled in our wheels. The Susquehanna lost her -sounding-spars also, or cut them away. - -At night the sea having increased, both steamers having burnt out -a considerable portion of their coal, rolled deeply and heavily. -We lost, by being filled with the sea, the captain’s gig from our -stern-davits,—one of the prettiest and fastest boats in the squadron. -The next morning, from the port wheel-house a handsome whale-boat was -washed away with oars, sails, mast, and breaker. By mid-day it became -apparent, that we were in a cyclone, or revolving-gale, and both ships -were “wore” to stand out of it. On the 23d the gale having moderated, -though the barometer still continued low, we proceeded on our course. -This being the first very ugly weather that we had had since leaving -home, landsmen had a fine opportunity of enjoying the comforts of a -gale of wind—such as holding on to your basin with one hand, and -performing the ablution with the other; waking up in the morning, -with your shoes floating about, underneath your cot: at breakfast, -the delight of a sticky, salty atmosphere is increased, by your chair -sliding with you down to leeward with each roll, or, if attempting -to grapple the table with one hand, a cup of tea precipitates -itself inside of your vest, while you are attempting to secure your -nicely-prepared eggs, that in a moment fresco the deck under foot; the -saccharine is largely mixed with the saline, by the mingling contents -of the sugar-bowl and saltcellar. This is the pleasurable experience of -those, who “go down to the great deep in ships.” - -We reached the south end of Loo-Choo, on the evening of the 24th, but -the weather being thick and foggy, could not run into the roads, so -stood off during the night. This day we recorded the occurrence of the -first death—one of the men, who contracted a fever on board of the -Chinese junk lost at the mouth of the Yang-tse-kiang. He was buried -the next day in the foreigners’ grove at Tumai. - -On running into Napa-roads the next day, we had some hopes of finding -there the steam-frigate, Powhatan, of whose sailing from the United -States we had intelligence, but were disappointed. The Supply lay there -alone. From her officers we learned, that the cyclone, that we were in, -had been felt with great force at Loo-Choo. They had not only to let -go all their anchors, but had also slung some of their carronades to -prevent the ship’s dragging on the reefs. - -We found that there had been no increase in sociability, and no -improvement in the manners of our friends, the Loo-Chooans; and -probably with the view to reduce the length of our stay, they had -diminished the supply of provisions to the ships—although well paid -for them. They plead scarcity, even to sweet potatoes and watermelons, -though they might easily be seen growing in their fields. They -preferred our loving and leaving them, but the commodore had another -interview with his coy-friend, the regent, in which he desired to know, -why they wished to cut off supplies; also that their officers must -cease to dog our steps on shore, and that they must open their stores. -As a mouse in the talons of the eagle, they promised everything, and -promised a bazar on a subsequent day, at which the Americans might -purchase whatever they had to sell. While this forcible diplomatic -wooing was going on, the younger officers, who had the opportunity, -were enjoying the delightful walk to the Komooe at Sheudi, or killing -wild pigeons and curlew on shore—a delightful gastronomic episode, -after a stretch of salt-junk. - -At daybreak, on the 1st of August, in a public hall in Napa—the -mayor’s office, I believe—the Loo-Chooan bazar (!) was open. The -articles exposed for sale, were some Japanese fabrics, brought -there by the junks, some domestic cotton-cloth, and specimens -of Loo-Choo lacquer-ware, and chow-chow boxes. By nine o’clock, -A. M.—having “opened a trade” with Loo-Choo, all were aboard, when the -steam-frigates left for China, taking a look at the Amaccarima islands -as we passed, during the day. - -The next evening, we espied a sail, which proved to be the United -States sloop-of-war Vandalia, which saluted the commodore, and then -laid to for her captain to repair on board of the flag-ship. We had -hoped for some letters and papers from home by her, but she had none. - -After running separated for three days, in hopes of falling in with -the Powhatan, the steamers came in company again, near the southern -extremity of Formosa. At sundown on August 7th, the Mississippi and -Susquehanna, after an absence of three months and eleven days, dropped -anchor in the harbor of Hong Kong, China. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - - -The numerous publications upon China, from the large folios of the -Jesuits, which record their triangulation of the empire over a century -ago, down to the later books, which afford every detail of the strange -people occupying the “flowery kingdom,” render an account, of what came -under observation, during the time the Mississippi, lay in the waters -of China, almost superfluous. Yet during our stay, the state of the -Celestials was rather anomalous; owing to the efforts of a portion of -the immense population under the lead of an insurgent chief, Thaeping, -to overthrow the existing or Tartar government. This rebellion has been -continued so long now, that it threatens to become _chronic_. - -At the time of these intestine troubles, the great number of ladrones -or land-pirates, who infest the vicinity of the densely-populated -cities, whose desperate fortunes, make them indifferent to what -government they may be under, generally seize upon the opportunity of -plundering, and the foreign hongs, or factories of the American and -European merchants, are always an object of attack, from the quantity -of specie that is known, or believed to be within their vaults. The -existence of the rebellion, and the heavy freshets in the Pekiang -causing much loss and distress, had also made the ladrones in the -vicinity of Canton very threatening; and a few days after our return -from Japan, our ship was ordered to proceed to Blenheim Reach, to -communicate with the American consul, and to afford with our force, any -aid that we could in the protection of American property at Canton, -which, notwithstanding the representations made to our government, -has been indebted for some time past to the protection of the guns -of a little English brig-of-war, which lay off the factories. But -if one thinks of the un-American manner, and the cockneyism, which -marks nearly all of the United States merchants, who abide and much -do congregate near the walls of Canton, perhaps the protection, which -an English flag would give, is more to their taste, such at least -is my opinion. It occasions no effort to appreciate the hospitality -of these people. Should you be a merchant-man, and indebted to -their brokerage for the purchase of tea and silk, or the sale of -opium, their spacious-chambers are soon put at your disposal; but if -unfortunately an officer from some national vessel, your way to the -single China-hotel, with its pent-up rooms, infuriate musquitoes, and -pleasant fried-rat odors, will not be impeded by them in the slightest -degree. During an extended stay, they might patronise you, if having -the financiering of the ship to do, with an invitation to a dinner, or -one to a “tiffin;” but they will scarcely be heard from again, unless -when they anticipate an _emeute_ of the Ladrone population, when a -man-of-war would immediately get representations about the necessity -for some force to protect their coffers. - -Blenheim Reach is about ninety miles from Hong Kong, and fifteen from -Canton, whose port, together with Whampoa Reach, separated from it by -paddy-field islands, it may be called. It was up this passage that -the English ship “Blenheim” went to Canton, and was enabled to turn -the enemy’s flank during the late war. Ahead of us laid the huge old -East Indiamen, looking like line-of-battle ships, and waiting till -they got aboard their twenty thousand chests, and not far from them -the _Aberdeen clippers_, which may take rank as such only when the -_American_ clippers are away. At Whampoa, off a collection of most -forbidding-looking houses, built over the muddy water, composing the -Chinese town, there lay the foreign ships, the mandarin watch-boats, -the junks, the chop-hulks from which stores are supplied, the -protestant and catholic floating-bethels for the good of souls, and the -well-armed opium-schooners whose cargoes destroy bodies. - -We laid in Blenheim Reach under the whole, hissing, hot sun of August -and September. There being a heavy fresh in the river at the time of -our arrival, the banks were overflown, and our ship did not swing -at her anchors for some days. Old China street at Canton was a foot -under water, and you reached the entrance to the hongs through the -foreign garden, in a sedan-chair, or on the backs of wading coolies. -During the height of the swollen current, dead Chinamen floated down -and hung in our wheels; and when the water subsided, the exhalation of -fields of alluvial black mud, and the visits of furious flowery-kingdom -mosquitoes, who, like the ghostly breeches of Mickey Free’s father, -were ever going between us and sleep, neither contributed to the -healthfulness nor comfort of our anchorage. Our comforts were further -increased by looking upon scenery which was unrelieved except by a -litchee grove here and there. The weather was terribly hot, and if the -thermometer had been longer, it would have probably been hotter; with -ratan-mat and bamboo-pillow you sought a spot under the awnings of the -hurricane or poop deck, that you might half-restless and half-snoozing -pass the night, while during the day the windsails were of little -use, and drop and drop came down the tar from the rigging. Boils and -other cutaneous eruptions affected the crew, with annoyances greater -than those of Job, and yet they had not the salubrious climate of a -Palestine in which to endure them. The dislocating-jaw beef, and fowls, -and fresh food furnished us by the Chinamen, together with watery -vegetables, nearly destitute of any nutritious qualities, were only -partly compensated for by the half-fresh cherrymoya, custard-apple, -banana, or splendid persimmon—persimmons splendid! Sometimes we would -have a thunder-storm which would purify the atmosphere for a time, -but back would soon come the stagnated, sweltering temperature, which -neither _white_ slippers nor grass-cloth could make more comfortable, -and which made the staid, starched, stiff collar, soon bow its points, -and relax into the opaque, prostrate Byronic. Every one who could, like -the personator of _Minerva_ at Mrs. Leo Hunter’s _fétê champétre_, -carried a fan. Such weather we had for two months. - -Occasionally, during the month of August, we had requests for aid from -merchant-captains arriving, who represented their crews in a state of -mutiny. After the confinement of the men, a consular court is usually -held on board to adjudicate the difficulty. I attended one of these, -and was surprised to see what an entirely _ex-parte_ affair it is; -the examination is absurd. The captain’s testimony is mainly if not -entirely depended on, and if a bad man, may not only maltreat his crew, -without any one to confront him effectively with the fact, but after -having contracted with his men, for high wages perhaps, in California, -on arriving in China, for some insubordination, prefers a charge of -mutiny; the men are put in irons, the consul’s decision forfeits their -wages, and thus a speculation is made for the owners. If not this, for -the acts of one or two bad men in a ship, the whole crew are put in -irons and punished indiscriminately. One fellow brought aboard of the -Mississippi in irons, called a “mutineer,” and subsequently regularly -shipped, would not have mutinied against a sheep. - -We received almost daily rumors of contemplated attacks upon the hongs. -The latter part of August, the English brig-of-war “Lily” (_painted?_) -passed up the river to Canton, being of light draft. In the event of -troubles, the custody of specie and silver-plate on board of these -vessels, pays a handsome percentage to the commander. A survey of the -Macao passage of the river was made with the hope that our steamer -might be gotten up to Canton, but the collection of a bar at a barrier -which had been made in the river during the war, by the Chinese, made -the water too shoal to attempt it. We sent up a body of marines, -and howitzers in the storeship Supply, which vessel lay for a long -time off the city. The imperial authorities at the city were much -excited; fleets of war-junks passed up and down the river in search of -undiscoverable foes; and the governor of the city recommended to his -pig-tail community not to celebrate the “Feast of the Lanterns,” as it -might give the rebels an opportunity for outbreak, and also notified -that in the event of an attack, it must be a _sauve qui peut_ business -with them, as he could not extend them protection. - -Meanwhile the officers of the ship, in an armed fast-boat, paid -frequent visits to the city; at times for visits merely and purchases, -and at others, when emergency seemed to require, with armed cutters -and howitzers. The objects on the route all became familiar, as if -going up and down one of our own rivers—the pagodas, the water-side -joss-houses—the rows of the plantain-trees skirting the fields, -and the big-sailed craft going lazily along in the mud canals that -intersected them. We soon came and went through the huge water-craft -moored head and stern in the approach to the city, and through the -lanes of the innumerable small boats, with their three hundred thousand -water population, or noticed the small ferryboats, in which, at the -fourth of a cent each, thirty thousand people cross and re-cross daily, -without interest almost. You might stroll the streets beyond the -walls, and purchase the curiously-carved ivory and the many elegant -and ingeniously-made articles of China, but the shopkeeper was in -considerable trepidation and would speculate much on the “too muchee -bobbery,” as he called the anticipated fighting. - -I was there during the feast of the Lanterns. In going out from the -solitary hotel, kept by Acow—_compradore_ of one of our former -commissioners to China, from whom, I suppose, he learned the little -English he knew—you generally, through the volunteer aid of the -Jemmy-Twitcher Mongols, immediately part with your kerchief and -gloves, and it is no matter that you saw the celestial who took them, -for if he once mixes with the crowd you could no more undertake to -individualize him than you would be able to tell a particular spoke in -a revolving-wheel. By you, passes a fellow with as much timber locked -around his neck, for some offence, as a mortar-board would contain. Of -the innumerable gongs beating, one struck at intervals attracts your -attention. The fellow who strikes it is walking the street in front of -a bare-backed malefactor, whose queue is wrapped around his head, and -whose hands are tied behind him. As he walks, at each tap of the gong -from the man in front, a following attendant lashes him with split -ratan. It would take too long to enumerate the scenes witnessed in a -Chinese street. During the day the bonzes marched through the streets -attired in their yellow robes, stopping at intervals to chin-chin -joss, by beating on gongs. At night tall prosceniums and staging are -erected at the entrances of streets, just inside of their gates, -and extending up as high as the roofs of the houses. These are most -gorgeously and grotesquely decorated, and lit up with large fantastic -lanterns and small lamps, looking like hundreds of illuminated lemons; -adown either side of the streets are hung other lanterns in front of -each store-door. The expense of all this, and the compensation of the -performers, who represent the “sing-song” on the stage, and go on with -their horrible caterwauling to the great delight of the throng in the -narrow street below, is paid by subscription from the occupants of the -street. An old Chinaman, of whom we purchased chess-men, advised us not -to be away from our hotel too long, as there were many “two facee—no -good pigeon-men”—in the crowd, who had no love for foreigners. - -At the time of this visit, I saw many of the celebrities about Canton; -the remarkable and magnificent gardens of the old China millionaire -_Howqua_, where artificial landscapes, cascades, and plants, trained in -the exact image of all kinds of animals, are to be seen in perfection; -old Curiosity street, with its costly jade-stone spectacles, &c., and -by accident, the spot, where some young Englishmen, captured during the -war, were taken to, and beheaded by the Chinese. - -The last of September, we were relieved by the arrival of the -Susquehanna, when we ran down the river to Cum-sing-moon. As we -approached the anchorage, we discovered the storeship Southampton, not -long from Valparaiso. When she was about a thousand miles from Luzon, -she picked up a boat, containing three men and a boy. When brought -aboard, their long, black hair, high cheek-bones, and dusky complexion -indicated a Malayan origin. All they could say was “_Sallie Baboo_” -and they were most likely driven out to sea, from the group of that -name, while passing with vegetables in their frail shallop, between -the islands. A building having been rented at Macao, as an hospital -for the sick and infirm of our squadron, the _Sallie Baboos_ were kept -ashore there for some time. The boy, about twelve years old, evinced -some sprightliness, and got hold of some sentences in English, but the -confidence to speak a single word in our language, was a plant of the -slowest possible growth with the older ones. - -We found the Powhatan and Macedonian at anchor in the harbor. -They had been laying there for exercise in target-firing and in -squadron boat-sailing. Unfortunately one of the officers of the -Powhatan—Lieutenant Adams, from exposure to the intense heat of the -sun, while engaged in the latter duty—was taken very ill, and a very -few days after our arrival, our ship performed the melancholy office -of conveying his remains to Macao for interment. On our arrival in -the roads at that place, we found there the French surveying-frigate -Constantine, who, upon seeing our colors half-mast, in compliment -half-masted her own. The day of interment the weather was so rough, -that a Portuguese lorcha had to be employed to take the body and its -escort to the shore. His remains were followed to the grave by his -messmates, the officers of the French ship, those of the Portuguese -garrison ashore, and proper escort of marines with ship’s band. He was -buried in a beautiful spot in the English cemetry, adjoining the garden -“_Ubi Camoens opus egregium compossuisse fertur_,” and by the side of -a brother-officer—Lieutenant Campbell, of the United States schooner -Enterprise, and the grave of Edmond Roberts, special diplomatic agent -of the United States to several Asiatic courts, who died in the East in -1836. - -October the 31st, the Mississippi returned to _Cumsing-moon_, which in -the celestial dialect means, “Golden-sun-born-pass,” but the man who -could so call it, must be - - “—— of imagination all compact: - See Helen’s beauty in a brow of Egypt!” - -The most naked, barren, desolate prospect; a partly-cultivated -island, between which and the main-land, the muddy river sweeps in a -current—and a collection of Chinese hovels, which form nests for the -river-pirates, who rob fast and post boats on their way to Canton and -levy on the fortunes of the fishermen, compose the attractive picture, -which the _Golden-sun-born-pass_ presents. - -Here is the principal anchorage of the opium-hulks; and Great Britain, -a party to the “holy alliance,” that said that no member of the -Bonaparte family should sit on the throne of France, and yet has her -legions side by side with those of Louis Napoleon—who keeps a squadron -on the coast of Africa for the suppression of the slave-trade, here -displays more of her boasted consistency, and covers with her flag, -a traffic more iniquitous. It is nothing to England, that opium is -an article contraband of the laws of China; from the enticing poison -produced in her possessions, she gets a large income in revenue; her -ships bring the drug to China, and smuggle it in armed vessels along -its coasts; and with her protection, the vile poppy has medicined -thousands to a sleep that knows no waking. She cares for syce silver, -not for bodies or souls. But it must be said, that the Parsees with -their “Benares” opium, and even Jonathan, though he does not fly his -flag, have a share in the traffic; that some of the drug is even grown -in China, and that a trade thrust upon that country by the throats -of English cannon, is now connived at, and embarked in by corrupt -mandarins, who share in the profits of its smuggling, while their -duties require them to discover such offenders, and bring their heads -under the executioner’s sword. - -[Illustration: _LITH. OF SARONY & Co. NEW YORK._ - CHINA.] - -A considerable portion of the opium consumed in China, is produced -in its southern departments. Its growth is as much a violation of -the imperial law, as its introduction into the Cinque ports by -foreigners is violative of treaty stipulation. The bribed mandarin -governors derive a large income, by looking another way in their -official perambulations when a poppy-seed field is reached; or it may -be that the _papaver somniferum_ has such an effect upon them, that -they go past in a somnambulic state. There being no edict requiring -of mandarins a knowledge of botany, they have no desire to learn the -difference between a poppy-flower and any other. Add to this the -demoralized condition, or rather the moral-less condition, of a large -infanticide-practising population, who once having gotten the habit, -become willing victims of the drug, and its introduction and continued -consumption, becomes an easy matter;—they first endured, they now -embrace. - -There are Chinese who contend that opium is good for the health. It -may, like intoxicating liquors, be used in moderation, but its use once -acquired, its strides upon the appetite of its votary, are far more -speedy, and fatal in results. - -The story of opium-using—which is synonymous with its excessive use, -need hardly be repeated here; how, instead of the brains out, and -the man dying, the brain dies and the man may still live on; how the -robustness of youth is suddenly changed into the infirmity of old age; -the limbs shrivel, the chest sinks, the shoulders stoop, the bones -protrude—the sunken cheeks, the ghastly hue of the complexion, the -extreme attenuation of the neck, causing the head to sink between the -shoulders, and appear disproportionate, and the man to move about a -walking skeleton; or how the debauchee once accustomed to the use of -the drug, becomes as secure in its grasp as an ox in the coils of the -huge serpent of Brazil—the successive stages gone through, when in its -power; the victim wrapped in dreamy hallucination is fiendishly mocked -with the imaginary enjoyment of a seventh heaven;—the alternation to -a supernatural excitement; the eye glaring demoniacally, and all the -brutish passions of human nature possessing him, or the look changing -to the listless, leaden, dull, inane leer of idiocy, when the curtain -falls upon the death-rattles of agony. Two instances of the excessive -use of opium came more immediately under my observation; one a jeweller -at Macao, who was a hale, hearty-looking man upon the occasion of our -first visit, yet on our return from Japan, had undergone frightful -emaciation from its effects. The other was a Chinese teacher, who -had been employed for the purpose of putting communications into -the mandarin dialect. He was buried at sea, on the passage of the -Susquehanna from Loo-Choo to Bonin, and those who witnessed his death, -represent it as one of terrible contortion and suffering. - -The opium stored on the hulks at Cum-sing-moon, comprises the Benares, -the Patna, and Malwa. It is put up in balls and packed in chests. On -its receipt, the custodian of the hulk proceeds to assort it, and -with a view of testing its quality, and preparing its samples for the -examination of the purchaser, small quantities of each case are boiled -in water, strained through brown paper, and then, by the heat of a -fire, reduced to the consistency of thick paste or molasses, which it -somewhat resembles, when it is placed in little cups. - -The owners generally reside in Canton, where most of the sales are -made; and it is a specie business. A case may sometimes sell for six -hundred dollars, and there have been times, when it would sell for -double that amount. The article, like our most southern staple, is -liable to great fluctuation in price, and large fortunes have been made -and lost by it. - -The following extracts from some old letters, nearly obliterated, found -floating about the harbor, from houses in Canton to their agents on the -hulks at “the Moon,” as it is briefly called, will give an idea of the -business _operandi_:— - -“To-day I have passed two delivery letters on you, each for three (3) -chests of Malwa opium, both in favor of the Chinaman Ehing, wherefore -you will take no suspicion about the delivery. Both these letters are -drawn by me for six chests of Malwa. - -“I will also thank you to pass one of the two chests, Nos. 1 and 2; -pass one of them among the six.” - -Another ran: “We have before us your note of the 3d, relating to order -No. 852, for one chest Malwa, and note that you had retained the order, -the holder declining to take the opium. - -“Having now, however, agreed to take the drug under the same order, you -will please deliver it accordingly, but without reduction, as he must -take it, having already paid the money. We leave it to your judgment, -however, to allow a small reduction, should he insist upon it.” - -These ships are well armed and numerously manned, mostly with Lascars. -The living on them is very sumptuous. Some years ago Cum-sing-moon -was visited by a terrible typhoon, when these hulks broke from their -moorings; some were driven entirely out of the harbor, others came -in contact, stove and sunk. The United States sloop-of-war Plymouth -was lying there at the time, and got considerable salvage for property -saved. - -The river-pirates make this place their rendezvous during the night. -They would seize and rob boats just off the mouth of the harbor: -their boats are fast sailers. The fast-boat of our compradore, when -bringing us provisions from Macao, had to run a daily gauntlet of the -rascals. But a young Portuguese officer, in command of a small armed -lorcha, used to pursue them with much success. One night, about nine -o’clock, having got intelligence of their whereabouts, while we lay -at Cum-sing-moon, he ran quietly into the harbor, and putting his -men in Sampan-boats, he fell into a nest of them and peppered the -rascals right and left. Their crafts are then taken to Macao and sold, -furnishing a kind of prize-money. - -The long and fast-sailing mandarin-boats, that smuggle the opium, -usually get here in the evening. The captains of the hulks make them -anchor some distance from their ships, because of their carelessness -in the use of powder; some of them would quietly sit over an open tank -of it and smoke their pipes, believing that if they are blown up it -is a fatality which they can not prevent. These boats are armed, and -well manned, and when there is no wind to expand their large sails, -they pull as many as a hundred sweep-oars moving through the water -like great centipedes. After their large crews have had their paddy -chow-chow, in the most clamorous and discordant manner, they proceed to -chin-chin joss, as the sun goes down, by banging on gongs and tom-toms; -but before midnight they have paid down their pile of specie, gotten -their chests of the drug aboard, and are moving off up the river to -Canton. - -We left Cum-sing-moon and its enlivening prospects in the middle of -November, and went over to Hong Kong, and thence we triangulated, as -it were, to Macao and Whampoa, and so back. At Macao we spent our -time, when ashore, by promenades on the Praya, where, at eventide, -the dark-eyed daughters of the decayed Portuguese aristocracy cast -furtive glances at the stranger, and listened to the music of one of -our squadron-bands, which the commodore, who was living at Macao, -had ashore with him; or strolled through the barrier-gate and out -on the _campo_; or witnessed the wonderful nerve displayed by the -knife-throwing Chinese jugglers in the street. - -While laying in the roads at Macao, a young Russian officer who had, -with a squadron from his country, visited the port of Nangasaki, -brought the intelligence that the emperor of Japan had died after -our visit, and that the Japanese said they would have to mourn him -for _three_ years, during which time they could have no transactions -or negotiations with foreigners. We thought the demise might be -true—perhaps a _hari-kari_ hastened it, but that the latter thing was -all “leather and prunella;” the emperor might have died, but another, -like poor Pillicoddy, must turn up, when we next visited the country. - -About this time the Plymouth, which had been sent, on our departure -from Loo-Choo in August, to the Bonin islands, arrived at Macao, -bringing the sad intelligence that a boat from that ship containing one -of her lieutenants—Lieutenant Mathews, of New York—and fourteen men, -out on a fishing excursion, while the ship was lying at Peel island, -had been lost in a sudden typhoon on the 5th of October, and that all -hands had perished. - -Preparations being on foot for the return of the squadron to Japan, -as soon as the storeship Lexington should arrive, and the services of -the storeship Supply being needed for the transportation from China of -coal for the steamers, a small English steamer recently built at Hong -Kong, was chartered on behalf of the United States government, to take -her place off the factories at Canton. She was armed with four guns, -and a lieutenant, passed-midshipman, and one engineer ordered to her, -besides being manned from the squadron—the American flag waved over -the “Queen!” - -On the 19th of December we stood up the river with the Hon. Humphrey -Marshall, United States commissioner to China, on board, who was going -to take possession of his residence at Canton. We reached Whampoa at -three o’clock, and found there the British war-steamer Rattler, that -had not long before taken an active part in the capture of Rangoon. Her -officers had many a kriss and spear trophy of the enemy, and around her -engines were well-cut Buddhist idols in marble, which they had brought -away with them. - -The next day the commissioner left for Canton, and beside receiving -his salute of seventeen guns, was accompanied in barges by a suite of -officers, an escort of marines, and a band of music—a “grand function” -accompanying the movements of prominent foreign personages, always -has a great effect with the impressionable Celestials. The American -shipping in the Reach fired a number of guns as Mr. Marshall passed up, -and dipped their colors. The party accompanying remained in the city -some days; I availed myself of the opportunity of making the circuit of -the walls, and in company with the chaplain of the ship and a messmate, -we started in the morning, Rev. S. W. Bonney, a resident missionary, -most kindly acting as conductor. He has been in China eight years and -speaks the language. To take the tramp considerable perseverance is -necessary. You have to thread your way through streets so narrow, that -at times you can easily touch the houses on either side by extending -your hands, down into which the sun never comes, densely packed with -human beings, and over granite flagging, for ever kept muddy by the -innumerable feet in motion over them from day-dawn to midnight. Then -you must keep on the alert and quickly step aside to the sill of some -shopdoor, or you may be run into by one of the thousand porters—the -sole conveyances of Chinese cities—whose short grunt in your rear, as -he toddles beneath the burden suspended from the bamboo-pole on his -shoulder, warns you to get out of his way; or perhaps you may get a -punch in the rear from the ferruled shalves of some high functionary -or rich merchant’s sedan-chair, as they rest on the shoulders of the -coolies, who carry him along at a dog-trot. On our route we stopped -in a number of shops. In one there was seated an Albino-Chinese, -seventy-five years old. A rat-merchant informed us that his stock on -hand was rather light now, but would be larger in a day or two; while -in a turning-establishment, we were shown the Chinese lathe which only -turns half way. The perpendicular red and gilded signs to the shops -were read to us; such as “May the customers come from the west, like -clouds, and when they have purchased, may those from the east come.” We -visited a kind of aceldama—the Quan-tung province execution ground—a -filthy triangular square in the lower part of the suburbs, running -to the river; the place was repulsive in the extreme. On a cross, -suspended so that his feet just cleared the ground, had been strangled -a culprit, above his head an inscription telling the offence for which -he had suffered; while under a shed, near by, was a pile of heads, -their long queus matted in blood. The executions by decapitation, -during our stay, were very numerous; fifty-nine were to be executed -the next day. The culprits are made to kneel, a man stands behind them -and raises both of their arms backward, as you would a pump-handle, -which brings the neck comparatively horizontal, when one blow from -the cleaver-like sword of the practised executioner, severs the head -from the trunk. A woman who had killed her liege lord was to be cut to -pieces. The laws of China are very severe in the punishment of female -offenders—“Women’s Rights” are below par—and it is a land which would -not be adapted for the residence of the “strong-minded” women of our -own country, Chinese prophecy having foretold the downfall of their -empire by the machinations of women. - -We passed through one corner of the city proper, which, though -permitted by treaties, is still a risky business. We were quick in -our movements and were scarcely observed by the Tartar soldier on -the look-out for rebels. This gave us an opportunity of seeing the -thickness of the wall. We went in at the gate of the “Rising Sun,” -crossed a small hypotenuse, and came out at the gate of the “Tranquil -Ocean.” - -We next emerged into an open space on the north side of the city, -used for drilling their soldiers, and where archery is practised on -horseback at full speed, the most successful shot having as his prize, -his name recorded in a temple near by. We crossed the place with a -number of boys crying after us as we walked, “Fanqui! Fanqui!” (foreign -devil), and passed under a recent triumphal arch of granite, erected -by subscription and by imperial permission. The inscription would be -news to the English: it told in grandiloquent terms, how the outside -barbarians during the war, were repulsed by Chinese valor from their -walls. Not far from here we stopped at a refreshment-house, and got -tea and sweetmeats. Here, as at every other point, if we stopped for -a moment, a crowd collected around. One would hold up an infantile -“pig-tail” to the window, that he might see the “outside barbarian” -inside, eat; while an old fellow created considerable laughter by -pointing to my mustache—the wearing of the mustache among the Chinese -indicating a grandfather. There not being any house for some distance, -we walked close under the walls for some time. They were quite high, -built of stone, capped with brick, almost covered with creepers and -vines, and had at intervals projecting angles for look-out purposes. - -We were now out of the suburbs, having on our left a valley shaded -with the bamboo and banyan, and containing granite vat-shaped wells, -from which the water was being continually carried within the walls. -We ascended a high hill on which a number of goats were browsing, and -seated ourselves on the steps of a fort. This place was captured by -the English after much difficulty, being compelled to drag their guns a -long distance from the river, over rice-fields; and here it was that, -after getting possession, they got the mortifying intelligence that the -commodore had granted a truce. The inscription on the gateway told how -it had been placed there to guard the city, and to watch those who came -to plunder. From here you could see over the walls, and look down upon -the city within, the houses of which did not appear more numerous than -outside; and we could discern the consular-flags at the hongs, that we -had left some hours before, in the extreme distance to the east. - -It is almost to be regretted that the English should have consented -to treat with the enemy, and given up this fort, when they had the -whole city at their feet, and could have given these treacherous, -malignant, cruel, dictatorial, self-conceited, vain people, a lesson in -enlightenment, which would have lasted them a long time, and procured a -little more deference for the “rest of mankind.” - -Descending from here we had a sight of an old mosque, and also of a -dead-house, where the Chinese frequently allow their deceased relatives -to remain for six months at a time, until their bonzes shall designate -some _lucky_ spot in which, in their trunk-of-tree-looking coffin, they -may be buried. In a hill-side cemetery we saw persons worshipping at -the tombs of their relatives, and burning joss-paper; also noticed -a Chinese funeral, the mourners in white. We returned by the western -suburbs, and after stopping a while to take a look at the oil-mongers’ -hall—each calling in Canton having a similar building—a kind of -’change, we elbowed our way to the hongs which we reached about three -o’clock, having left them at ten in the morning, during the whole -of which time, Mr. Bonney, while very polite in his attentions and -explanations to us, like one properly imbued with the spirit of his -mission, as he is, distributed his “Yesoo” or Christian tracts to those -whom he would first ascertain, could read them in Chinese, being nearly -the only medium by which it may be hoped to introduce Christianity into -that country. - -A jaunt around the walls of Canton one is glad _to have_ taken; you are -subjected to annoyances and names, if not violence. Some called after -us, “Kill them as the brute,” and others made sign of throat-cutting, -mostly young people, who were reproved by Mr. Bonney in their language, -still it was best to keep on at a brisk pace, and obey fully the -injunction given to Lot’s wife. This was discreet. We escaped a shower -of the missiles with which those who adventure the tramp are sometimes -saluted; two only being thrown at us, one, not very large, taking me -back of the neck, and the other falling between one of my companions -and myself. - -In the evening we crossed the river and paid a visit to the pagan -temple of Honan, that large structure, where the disciples of Buddha -worship him with his three faces, representing the past, present, and -future. The buildings of this temple cover a space of thirty-five -acres, and an orange-garden, and place for burying the deceased priests -and the wealthy dead, fifteen acres more. The main building, whose -approach is under a noble growth of banyan-trees, is over, one hundred -feet square, filled with colossal demon images of wood and gilt, who -keep off evil spirits, together with twenty-four gods of pity. The -number of priests is between one and two hundred, all eating at the -same table, though vegetables and rice supply the place of black broth. -Then they show their porcine affinity; having there the sacred pigs—so -fat that their eyes may not be seen, and who are fattened till they -die. The time of our visit was after sundown. We visited the apartments -of the abbot of the establishment, who was evidently just recovering -from the effects of opium. This old fellow, once almost felt persuaded -to become a Christian; that is, he almost made up his mind to come -to the Christian country of the United States, but his infirmity and -the dislike to leave a certain support for the balance of his days, -prevented it. To say that he would have been willing to change his -creed, would be almost a negation of terms. What religious creed has -a Chinaman? If any, it is a bundle of negatives. He thinks nothing in -such a connection: he believes nothing. How can you change him from a -position, when you do not know where he stands? how can you change his -belief when he has none? You had as well beat the air. - -This old abbot desired Mr. Bonney to tell us that there was a Chinese -lady who had reached Canton from Peking, who was desirous of uniting -her fortunes for the balance of her days to a foreigner: her feet were -only some two and a half inches long. We desired him to be informed -that it “Was not at all in our way.” - -The next day I left Canton for the ship in one of the barges, which -came up for the purpose of carrying down specie for the use of the -squadron. They were all well armed; though the river-pirates are -always, by some fraternal telegraph, posted of the movements of -treasure to Whampoa, they will scarcely dare attack a man-of-war’s -boats, yet if not watched, they are willing to attempt, the apparently -accidental, running down of a boat with treasure, that they may -subsequently fish it up, knowing as they do every spot. - -The 25th of December—a drizzly, disagreeable Sunday, that was not -“Happy, happy Christmas, that can win us back to the delusion of our -childish days, and transport the sailor and the traveller, thousands -of miles away, back to his own fireside and his quiet home,”—saw -us passing the fortifications of the Bogue, which stupidly neglect -crown-batteries with admirable physical formation for them, by which -the rigging, tops, and spars of an enemy’s ship might be sorely -troubled, bound down through the Cap-sing-moon passage, back of Lantow -island, to Hong Kong. The next day the Lexington arrived. - -The news of the death of Vice-President King we had seen, but the -official intelligence we did not get for some time. On the 29th of -December, in honor of the deceased, each American man-of-war in the -harbor, fired minute guns at daybreak, mid-day, and sundown. In this -they were very courteously joined by the English flag-ship Winchester, -commanded by Admiral Sir Fleetwood Pellew, son of Lord Exmouth of naval -renown. - -The beginning of 1854 found us in the harbor of Hong Kong, preparing -for departure for Japan, and awaiting the arrival of the next oriental -mail-steamer. The intervening time was occupied in coaling the -storeships, and in an occasional dramatic performance on one of the -steamers; a thing not at all calculated to improve discipline; whose -burnt-cork and dramatic performances make “Rome howl” much oftener -than good sailors; besides, the lights employed not contributing to -the safety of a man-of-war from fire. At such times the quarter-deck -awnings are usually elevated, and draped with the numerous flags; -underneath, chandeliers of windsail-hoops and lashed bayonets and -suspended overhead, the guns rolled out of the way, the mainmast -decked with palm-branches; and when the music arises in the floating -ball-room, the guests flit in the mazes of the dance, and nothing -interrupts the twinkling feet of the _en-bon-point_ English women -save an occasional ring-bolt in the deck. Tables were spread in the -different messes. At such times, “H. E., Sir Samuel, K. C. B., governor -and commander-in-chief, and vice-admiral,” and the “major-general, K. -H., of the forces,” and the officers of the “59th,” and foreign naval -officers, were aboard. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - - -Six months precisely from the day of the first landing of the Americans -in Japan, the mail having arrived from Suez, and the other vessels of -the squadron having left in advance, we prepared to follow. On the -morning of the 14th of January, the black smoke rolling away from their -funnels, announced steam being gotten up on three as large war-steamers -as were to be seen in any waters—the Powhatan, the Susquehanna, and -the old Mississippi steam-frigates. Considering their size, it was a -sight that the harbor of Hong Kong had never before witnessed, and -will no doubt be many a day before it shall see again. At half-past -ten in the morning, everything being ready, agreeably to signal the -ships got under way, the Susquehanna leading out, and the Powhatan -and Mississippi following, with the Lexington and Southampton in tow. -As the flag-ship passed the Winchester, the English admiral manned -his rigging, cheered, and fired a parting salute, which was returned -promptly. - -The first part of the run we had fine steamingweather. We stood up to -Breaker Point on the China coast, and then headed across the channel -for the south end of the island of Formosa. In three days this land was -in sight, and we ran past it on a lovely evening, with the cultivation -and fine growth of trees in full view. The setting sun soon lit up -gorgeously the whole picture, and nature in its beauty having no -barbaric phase, one could scarcely realize that a spot so lovely to -the sight, was the home of a lot of throat-cutting, piratical Chinese -refugees. Before daylight disappeared, we saw the lonely spike-headed -_Velo Rete_ rocks, standing in mid-ocean, a dreaded thing to mariners, -and right ahead was visible the conical little island of _Botel Tobago_. - -At night we passed the island of Sammassama, inhabited by a peculiar -people. In two days more we had rough, stormy weather, and the ships -in tow were cast off to proceed under sail. The navigation among the -islands on the northeastern side of Formosa, owing to the currents, -becomes very intricate. - -On the night of the 19th we could hear the breakers, on the reef -surrounding the island of Typinsan, on which the Providence, English -twenty-gun ship, was wrecked in 1790. We passed the Amakarimas on the -21st, and in the evening the three steamers anchored in the roads of -Napa, Loo-Choo, where we found the razee Macedonian, the sloop-of-war -Vandalia, and the storeship Supply. In a few days the two other -storeships arrived, and the weather became very rough. The sea broke -and tumbled furiously in over the reefs, while the ships rolled at -their moorings, and communication by boat between them was almost -discontinued. - -About this time a young assistant engineer of the Susquehanna died, -and the boats that accompanied the body for burial ashore, had to row -through the heavy sea. Pity but that he had been left at Macao, from -which place he had written to his friends not to write him again as he -would soon be home. Poor fellow, it was his long home he soon went to. - -The boisterous weather continuing, the carpenters were unable to -transfer a deck cabin from the Susquehanna to the Powhatan, to which -vessel it was in contemplation to transfer the flag, or to discharge -the coal from the Supply and land it. - -The Mississippi having been as deep as usual with her coal, on leaving -Hong Kong, and rolling heavily in her run from that place, was found, -while laying at her anchors, to leak from twenty-two to twenty-four -inches of water, in twenty-four hours, which was deemed sufficient by -those on board, considering how flat a floor the ship had. - -On the 31st of January, the weather having become more favorable, -agreeably to order, the Macedonian, Vandalia, Southampton, and -Lexington, got under way and stood handsomely out of the harbor, bound -on their first visit to Japan. An exploration party by land, left, on -the same morning, for the northern part of the island, where it had -been said powder was manufactured, and that there was coal. The result -of the exploration was the bringing back some of the “coal _blossom_,” -from which some were sanguine, that there was coal on the island. It -will be many a day before any steamer will cross the Pacific in the -latitude of Loo-Choo; and Napa will never be the place selected for -coaling. - -During the night a poor devil of a Loo-Chooan paddled off to the -Susquehanna, soliciting safety, from some on shore, whom he motioned, -were going to kill him. Not having previously, “declared his intention -in the United States,” it was not possible to get up another Koszta -affair! His canoe was hoisted on board, and the man put under the -sentry’s charge. The converted missionary at Napa—Dr. Bettelheim, -expressed the belief, that the poor creature was a spy. This opinion -was not at all surprising from the Dr., who never displayed amiability -toward the population, and in answer to an inquiry about their history, -or their upper classes, his response was “They are all liars—not -a word of truth in them.” This feeling appeared to be entirely -reciprocated by the Loo-Chooans, to whom his presence appeared most -distasteful. - -When other mediums than himself were adopted for the procurement of -eatables, &c., we generally found, that we succeeded better. The -Loo-Chooans are not in a condition to receive gospel-truth, and -his efforts at proselyting were all well known in Japan, and any -protection, that we might appear to extend to him, or the slightest, -even apparent co-operation with him, were not at all calculated to -advance the desires of our government with the Japanese. Besides -this, it is said, that some, temporarily connected with the squadron, -distributed “Yesoo” or religious tracts among the people, during our -stay, which was not adventitious for our objects with a people, to whom -in his letter, to allay their ever-active suspicions, in the first -paragraph, the president had deemed it necessary to say, that the -envoy he had sent them was “no missionary of religion.” Certain it is -that no attempt at increasing the field of missionary labor, among the -jealous, tenacious, and suspicious Niphon race, who chiefly inhabit the -northwest islands of the Pacific, can ever go _pari passu_ with efforts -to establish treaty relations and commercial intercourse, unless like -Mohammed preaching against the idols of the Kaaba, the cimetar gleams -in one hand, while the Good Book is upheld by the other. - -Dr. Bettelheim having received intelligence from England, of being -superseded by another missionary, named Moreton, was with his family -tendered a passage in the Supply to China. He left behind more patients -than proselytes; poor patients, grateful for the physical assistance, -which his Esculapian art had enabled him to extend to them, when -afflicted with the noxious diseases of the island. This medicinal -aid was, no doubt, often extended under difficulty—the want of faith -in the remedy by the afflicted, and the sneers of the bystanding -native _Hippocrates_. I remember on one occasion, being attracted by a -group, who gathered around a white-headed old native, who had fallen -apparently in a fit. As he lay stretched upon the ground, some held -up his head at intervals, and attempted to give him chah or warm tea -to drink, while a native Sangrado, was leopardizing him with _mochsa_ -burning. Dr. Bettelheim, who was by, thought the man should be bled, -but he said, “If I bleed him, and he recovers, they will say, the -_mochsa_ cured him; if I bleed him and he dies, they will declare I -killed him.” - -It was understood that the commodore had purchased or procured from -the authorities, the place on shore at Tumai, where our coal had been -stored, and over which a shed had been erected. It was left in charge -of an acting master’s mate, who had command of a number of invalid -seamen, quartered in a building not far off. The American flag floated -over the coal shed, for the first time, on the 5th of February. - -During this visit the people appeared rather more friendly than usual. -We took our walks as formerly to the castellated and beautiful Sheudi. -The vernacular had been slightly acquired by the juveniles; a small -boy in a school counted twelve for me in English quite plainly, while -others desiring to display the activity peculiar to juvenility, when -scrambling for coppers, would say as you passed, “American—how do you -do?” - -On the 3d of February, the commodore with a suite and military escort -similar to the one of June 6th preceding, paid another official visit -to the palace at Sheudi: a proceeding anything else than devoutly -wished for by the prince-regent. The palace-gates were opened and we -were ushered into the former hall of audience. On this occasion a -number of American gold and silver coin were left with them, for which -they were informed, that on the return of the squadron, they were to -give an equivalent in similar metals of their currency. They would -gladly have avoided this, but they felt themselves the victims of a -gently-forcible suasion, that there was no getting around. - -A banquet was spread as before, and as each guest left the building, -an attendant functionary at the door handed him a red slip of paper -written on in the mandarin character, which proved to be kind of -hospitality shares, and on their presentation at the city of Napa, -entitled the holder to a “cumshaw” of a pipe and pouch, and bundle of -paper. - -On the 7th of February the three steamers left Loo-Choo for Japan. On -getting outside of the harbor a sail hove in sight, which proved to -be the sloop-of-war Saratoga from Shanghae. We lay to for an hour and -a half, getting from her in boats, bullocks and provisions that she -had brought. At five in the evening we were off the northern part -of Loo-Choo island—“Mellville,” which had been surveyed by Captain -Beechy, R. N., and resurveyed by boats from our squadron. - -We got, after leaving Loo-Choo, what the sailors call a good “slant” of -wind, and ran free under canvass as well as steam. On the night of the -11th it came on thick and chilly, and found us groping our way among -the chain of islands just southward of Ohosima. One steamer was unable -to discern the lights of another, and the midnight navigation was not -rendered any more pleasurable by the corybantic sea, or the reflection -that during the day we had discovered dangerous rocks poking their -points above the water, not laid down upon the charts, which would -punch a hole in the bottom of a ship with no compunction. But it is -remarkable what indifference or philosophy takes possession of those, -who are accustomed to plough the great deep, upon such occasions. They -may know the peril of the locality in which they are sailing, yet they -turn in as usual; sleep and snore, and reck not of what may come. - -The next morning was Sunday: we had left Japan on that day, and we were -now returning to it. The sun came up bright and clear, but the air had -become very cold, and penetrated the ear painfully as we stood upon -deck, because of the transition from the more genial temperature of -Loo-Choo, which we had left a few days before. On our right hand was -_Ohosima_—the smoke slowly ascending from its volcano like incense -from nature’s altar, while right ahead of us were the mountain ranges -of the shore of Japan wrapped in snow—yes snow, a thing we had not -laid eyes on for many a month before:— - - And as springs in deserts found, seem sweet, - “All brackish though they be,” - -so this even chilling remembrance, brought up a warmth of recollection -of our own country. - -Having drifted a good deal during the night, daylight found us opposite -the wrong bay—that of Kawatsoo, instead of Yedo. But lucky so it -was, for on approaching, two ships were descried in under the land. -On reaching signal distance we made out the numbers, flying at their -mast-heads, to be those of the Macedonian and Vandalia. The latter -vessel, being the nearest, soon telegraphed the flag-ship “ashore is -the Macedonian,” this vessel the night before, when thick and hazy, -having gotten on a reef. When we came up she had thrown over a number -of things to lighten her, and had slung and buoyed her guns too, to -let them go, if necessary. Signal was made for the three ships to come -to anchor. In the afternoon, the sea being smoother, the Mississippi -was directed to pull the Macedonian off the reef, which she did -finely, parting one hawser in the undertaking. The ships remained -at this anchorage for the night. Before sundown, most opportunely, -the Lexington hove in sight. The Southampton, more lucky than the -other sailing-vessels, had made the bay of Yedo, and her true, old -sailor-commander had run up it, as far as the sailing-chart furnished -him, laid down. The Japanese on shore, who knew of the grounding of the -Macedonian, had gone up to where the Southampton lay, and informed them -of an American ship with a white streak around her, being ashore, and -with a native chart, they pointed out the spot, where she was. Captain -Boyle despatched a launch with an officer to her assistance, though the -arrival of the steamers, rendered it unnecessary. - -No sight could have exceeded in magnificence the one presented by -_Foogee Yama_ at daylight, the next morning. The clouds that had -obscured it the evening before had disappeared with the night. The air -was clear; the mountain seemed to have moved nearer during darkness; -its mantle of snow, divided by rugged ravines, was more plain; and when -the moon was setting, and sharply defining one side with its chill, -cold rays, the sun, in all his state, came up upon the other, and -burnished with brilliant glory the huge cone as it swelled up into the -sky. - -We entered the bay of Yedo in the morning of the 13th of February, the -Susquehanna towing the Vandalia; the Powhatan, the Lexington; and the -Mississippi, having more towing-power from greater face of wheel and -immersion of paddle, the Macedonian. As before, the batteries were -ready, and guns shotted; but instead of proceeding cautiously, as on -the occasion of our former visit, the line of ships ran directly past -their forts and into their inner bay, not stopping until reaching what -had been called “American anchorage,” on our first reconnoissance, -about ten miles above the port of Uraga, off the island of Natse. -The storeship Southampton had arrived there some days before. We -had scarcely anchored when some Japanese officials came off to the -flag-ship to welcome the commodore and officers back to Japan. They -verified the intelligence we had received through the Russians before -leaving China—that of the death of the emperor _Minamoto Jyekosi_, -and the accession to the throne of his son, with the title _Minamoto -Yosisaki-sei-tai-seogun_. It was very soon discovered from them, to our -surprise, that their government was prepared to return an affirmative -response to the demands and requests contained in the letter of our -president. They informed the commodore that a building had been -erected, and preparations made to receive him at Uraga, where they said -was a high functionary who would deliver to him the imperial answer to -the president’s letter, and begged that he would move his squadron down -to that place. - -The commodore, through his captain of the fleet, peremptorily refused -to accede to this request, on the ground that the anchorage there was -too much exposed at that season of the year; and requested them to -inform their government that a suitable place for his interviews with -those appointed to confer with him, must be selected in the vicinity -of the then anchorage of his squadron, otherwise, if he moved at all, -it would be to ascend the bay in the direction of Yedo. - -Several days were allowed to elapse before the Japanese consented to -change the location for the negotiations. The weather proved quite -rough, but the boats of the squadron, under that most admirable officer -and gentleman, Lieutenant W. L. Maury, continued to make soundings and -cross-bearings in the direction of the city. On one day the weather -proved so rough, that the surveying-boats and their parties, unable to -get back to their own ships, remained with the Southampton all night, -which vessel had been moved further out and higher up to triangulate -upon. - -The Mississippi was heeled with her guns, and her shot and shell -temporarily transferred to the Susquehanna, to get at her leak. The -broad-pennant was transferred from the latter ship to the Powhatan; -state-department cherry cordial was freely set out for visiting -Japanese officers aboard of the flag-ship; and the Vandalia, with -Fleet-Captain Adams, was sent down to Uraga to have an interview with -the governor of the place, and to tender a passage up to the squadron, -to the high functionary with the imperial answer at that place. This -was declined. They said that thus far they had yielded to us, and it -was but right that we should do so in some things to them, especially -as they had already erected houses for reception and negotiation at -Uraga. - -It was well known that “nulla vestigia retrorsum,” should be the -motto in dealing with these people; and the Japanese finding that -the American “Mahomet would not come to the mountain,” decided that -the “mountain should go to Mahomet,” and so consented to the removal -of their buildings higher up the bay. It so happened, that just at -the time that the Vandalia appeared in sight on her return with the -declension of the Japanese, that the remainder of the squadron had -gotten underway to move ten or twelve miles higher up to the more -land-locked anchorage off Kana Gawa, or river Kana, and the Japanese -believing there to be an immediate concert of action, and our -surveying-boats having approached to within a very few miles of their -great capital, very readily acquiesced in our requests. - -On the 22d of February the different ships fired a salute in honor of -the day. The atmosphere was the purest, and it was a fit presence in -which to honor the memory of George Washington—_Foogee-Yama_, with -its mantle of snow, towered upon the sight, its ermine of the elements -typifying the purity of his character; and its great height, the -eminence which he attained in the eyes of the world. - -The spot selected for the erection of the buildings for the -conferences, was on the beach of the village of Yokohama, or compost -town, in the small bight of Kawa-saki, and separated from the city of -Kanagawa by the little river Kana. This place was quite sheltered by a -projecting bluff below. The Japanese, as could be seen through a glass -at two and a half miles distant, set to work in the erection of the -buildings on shore, with a Babel-like activity; and the ships of the -squadron moved in closer and formed a crescent line in their anchorage, -agreeably to buoys previously established. - -While the buildings were being gotten ready, a number of their -fast-sailing, sharp, copperplated and tassel-prowed boats, some quite -ornamentally painted, came off and moved round the ships, their inmates -not being allowed to come alongside by their government’s cruisers, -peering all they could. The sterns of these boats are open, or indented -to the distance of a foot or so in their build, they believing, -perhaps, that the eddying water at this point serves to propel the -craft. The tall, square masts of their boats, when not under sail, -rests on a kind of gallows at the stern. At one corner of the stern -is an upright bamboo-pole to which, like a tavern-keeper’s sign, is -attached by strips, a cotton or provincial flag; if it be a government -or customhouse boat, the flag is of white cotton with a horizontal -black stripe through the centre of it. On the other corner is a similar -arrangement, from which is suspended the universal paper lantern, -differing from the Chinese in lifting up, instead of opening out like -an umbrella. The rowers of these boats are athletic men, who appear -very indifferent to cold, and in the chilliest weather their cotton -garments are most epigrammatic in character. - -The Japanese officials, or gentlemen, who came off to the ships -were politely received and kindly entertained, at which they seemed -gratified, and, after the manner of their land, indicated their -appreciation by bringing from time to time little presents of -lacquered-ware, &c. I don’t remember to have seen anything else but -the most quiet and gentle manner in any of these visiters, except -in the case of an impertinent little officer of artillery, who it -would have been as well to have shown the gangway. This fussy little -animal, who rejoiced in a flaming pair of big brocade breeches, being -a consumptive, according to the Æsculapian theory of his country, -left all “the hair on the top of his head,” which according to our -theory is the “place where hair ought to be.” He had, however, the -cheroot-cigar-looking tuft of hair laying horizontal, and end pointing -forward. This fussy little person pryed into everything about the ship -with rude curiosity. He came and went from the cabin without decorum, -and examined huffily officers’ state-rooms, without solicitation. The -only point of interest in the diminutive animal was, that he appeared -to understand quite well, how a howitzer in battery should be worked. - -A dinner was given on the Susquehanna, by her commander, to Yezimon, -governor of the province of Uraga, and a suite of ten others, among -whom was the little peripatetic consumptive of the artillery. The -Japanese being accustomed to the use of the chop-sticks at their -meals—which are not of ivory as the Chinese, but lacquered black—were -a little awkward at first in the use of the Christian assistants of -knife and fork, but it did not take them long to acquire the requisite -facility, when they made up for lost time. The cherry cordial, of which -they are very fond, did not go untasted, and champaigne was by no means -neglected by them. Accustomed to the small saki-cup, they admired -the contents more than the size of our glasses. When any health was -proposed, the Japanese—as if using the staghead-pattern cup dug up at -Pompeii—turned their goblets upside down on the table, to show the -absence of heel-taps. - -The health of their emperor was drank, for which the governor, through -his interpreter, returned thanks and gave the health of the president -of the United States; and after his own health had been given, he -gave the health of the commodore (not present). This was all very -well apparently, but I shrewdly suspect that for the hint, they were -indebted to Mr. A. L. C. Portman, who was present and interpreted from -the Dutch, in which they preferred conversing at all times: he is too -conversant with the proper etiquette of such occasions, to let this -surmise go unindulged in. They remained at the table some two hours, -during which time one of their number present, “by request,” sang a -Japanese song—if a kind of a cross between the half wail, half-vocal -screech of the Chinese, a boy dragging a stick over the palings after -him, and a severe asthma, may be called a song. In return one of the -lieutenants of the ship present, sang “Ginger Blue.” “Ginger Blue” sang -in the hermetic empire! What impertinence, O Jonathan! to indulge in -such refrains before the potentate presence that once required knocking -of head from a Russian count! Thy good friend the _London Times_, will -“condemn thee to everlasting redemption for this,” and when it learns -it, how many additional articles will appear in its columns headed -“_More American Wit_.” - -Yezimon, on leaving the ship where he had been so handsomely -entertained, remarked that he hoped he would have the opportunity -of reciprocating the courtesies which had been shown them, when the -friendship (treaty) had been made; they would then see more of us, and -we more of them and their towns. As customary, they left a number of -little presents, consisting of confections in small wooden boxes, and -flowers, and little birds on miniature trees, made with shells. Their -specimens of spun-glass did not equal in whiteness and fineness what we -see at home. - -While at dinner, they laid aside their two swords. I had a very good -opportunity of examining them in the cabin of the Mississippi. The -Damascus may not equal them; but they evinced much surprise when I -showed them the temper of this far-famed blade, by an engraving, in -which the point of one appeared so bent as to be put through the guard. -The Japanese blade is of the most magnificent steel; it has the back -shaped like that of a razor, and the edge is equally as sharp, and so -highly polished that they look black instead of bright, and the breath -disappears from their surface, as from the face of the finest mirror. -The hilts were without “basket” of any kind, and about a foot in -length, intended to be grasped, when in use, with both hands. They were -covered with the skin of the shark, or the corrugated plaice, wrapped -in silk cord in diamond shapes, and ornamented with amulets in the -shape of small animals, made of gold, boxwood, red coral, or bronze. -The guard, which was a circle of bronze, was decussated, and frequently -had an image of a fly entangled in a web. The blade has little curve, -and is contained in a scabbard of wood finely lacquered, and ornamented -with purple cord. - -The Japanese interpreter present spoke English tolerably; said he -had learned it from an American at Nangasaki, but took good care not -to mention that this American was one of the sailors whom the United -States ship Preble took from them in 1849, who had been held by them in -captivity. They were very desirous of getting dictionaries and grammars -in English. They were offered a passage to the United States in one of -the steamers; they said “No; they would come when they could build -ships”—indicating the three masts with their fingers, and the yards by -crossing them. Two of the party ascended as high as the main-top. - -The houses on shore progressed, and were being built without any -palisade enclosure, as had been agreed on. On the 4th of March we had -a slight fall of snow, and the air was cool. The Japanese, with the -ships’ casks, brought off in their boats, from some place of their -river, water to fill our tanks. They brought two kinds, and desired us -to choose between them. Everything in Japan having any connection with -strangers, is deemed a matter of such importance, that the water-boats -were always accompanied by others with municipal officials. They were -entertained with cakes and tea and wine; and were quite curious in -examining each portion of the ship. They did not understand why we -should have brought so many vessels. They told us that the Russian -squadron had been at Nangasaki, and left there on the 12th of February. -At that time they declared their intention of making a treaty with -the “American States” alone. They would present their fans on which -they desired some sentiment to be written, and many of them took away -the marginal aphorisms of a pocket-dictionary. Their own cards were -presented, written perpendicularly on strips of paper, such as Mr. -Olee-ke-chay-suo, or Mr. To-ta-ro-sa-koo-ka. They were very polite in -writing names in Japanese characters in our books. I requested one -to write a name on the title-page of a Book of Common Prayer, which -happened to have a steel engraving of the cross upon it. He had dipped -his camel’s-hair pencil into his portable inkstand, passed the point -through his lips, and was about to write when his eye rested upon the -cross; he instantly shook his head, threw the book upon the table, nor -could he be induced to touch it again. - -Some of the officers who visited the shore near the buildings, brought -flowered branches of the wild Camellia Japonica, which is native here. -Upon being put on the table near a stove, they sent forth a pleasant -perfume. The leaf here is of the deepest and most lovely green; but the -flower, though as large, had not the same delicacy of petal—perhaps -owing to exposure to the cold winds—as the same flower, after -hot-house nurture, in the United States. - -On the 6th of March a mariner died on the Mississippi of an affection -of the brain. The sloop-of-war Saratoga, after a boisterous passage -from Shanghae, and being blown off from the mouth of the bay of Yedo, -arrived and anchored in the line. This dropping in of the ships and the -subsequent arrival of another, the Japanese did not understand, and -perhaps thought with Macbeth:— - - “Will the line stretch out to the crack o’doom.” - -The 8th of March had been selected for the landing of the commodore to -meet the Japanese commissioners at Yokohama, but there was very little -of the excitement or interest felt in this landing, that attached to -the first, in July preceding, except on the part of those from the -ships, that had not been to Japan on the previous occasion. Then there -was some doubt and uncertainty; the Japanese might or might not attempt -the Golownin game on us; they say now, they were prepared for us then -as enemies, they now receive us as friends: besides this we had now -taken exactly the measurement of their foot, and our force was treble -as great. - -The following memorandum order was issued:— - - On the first landing of the commodore to meet the Japanese - commissioners, he will be escorted by all the marines of the squadron, - who can be spared from duty. - - Major Zeilin will make the necessary arrangement. - - The bands of music from the Powhatan, Susquehanna, and Mississippi, - will be in attendance. - - _Four_ boats will be sent from each of the steamers and the - Macedonian, carrying forty seamen in addition to the boats’ crews, and - their proportion of marines and musicians. - - _Three_ boats from the Vandalia, to carry thirty men as above. - - _One_ boat from each of the storeships to assist in carrying the - marines, &c., on shore. - - Half of the captains to remain on aboard. Those who land will leave - the first lieutenant in charge of the ship. There will be subsequent - opportunities for all to land who wish it. - - _Three_ officers from each ship can join the escort. - - The officers to be in undress-uniform, frock-coats, cap, swords, - epaulets, and pistol. - - The men armed with musket, sword, and pistol, and dressed in blue - jackets and trowsers, and white frocks. - - The musicians armed with sword and pistol, and all to be provided with - musket or pistol cartridge-boxes. - - All boat-guns to be mounted and ammunition in boats. - - A list of the officers, who are to land, is to be furnished to the - captain of the fleet, by 10 A. M., on Monday 6th inst. - - Senior officer landing to take command and confer with captain of the - fleet. - - An officer to be in charge of the men from each ship, and one in - charge of each boat. These officers are not to leave the boats, nor - quit their divisions of men. - - If the boats are likely to be overcrowded, the numbers of the crew may - be reduced. - -About 11 o’clock in the morning of the 8th, preparation being complete, -twenty-nine boats of the different ships, with officers and crews -armed and equipped agreeably to the order, were formed in a line -abreast according to rank of commanders, and pulled ashore, presenting -a beautiful sight. The number landing, including officers, was about -five hundred. The commodore not long after, left the flag-ship in a -white barge, under a minister’s salute of seventeen great guns from the -Macedonian, he going ashore in the capacity of “Special Ambassador.” -On reaching the beach, as before, he was received by his officers, and -with American national airs from the bands. The column of escort was -then formed, and all marched to the reception-house—a short distance. -A large field around the buildings had been screened off with striped -cotton cloth, of black and white, while the common people of the -village were kept back by ropes, extending from a growth of fine trees -to the water’s edge. A Japanese guard of honor with lances, were drawn -up on the right in rear of our line of marines and sailors, and a -cordon of the sharp government boats lined the beach to the left. - -The high officers, who had been appointed to treat with Commodore -Perry, were: - -Hayashi Daigaku, no-kami; chief commissioner to form the treaty, and -member of council. - -Ido, Prince of Tsu-Sima, second commissioner. - -Izawa, Prince of Mima Saki, third commissioner. - -Tsudzuki Suruga, no-kami, Prince of Suruga, fourth commissioner. - -Udono, Mimbu Sheyoyu, member of board of revenue, fifth commissioner. - -Takenoüchi Shitaro, member of board of revenue, sixth commissioner. - -Matsusaki Michitaro, seventh commissioner. - -The chief Japanese interpreter was Moriyama Yenoske, and Hori -Tatsnoske, and Namura Gohachiro, were two other interpreters. “No-kami” -means a very learned man; one into whose head no more information can -be gotten. - -The first, second, third, fifth, and seventh commissioners acted. - -On entering the hall, the commodore was received by the five -commissioners. The party being seated, the flag of Japan was run up on -board the Powhatan, and saluted with twenty-one guns from the launches, -after which another salute of seventeen guns was given to the Japanese -high commissioners, which the Japanese say, they took as a great -compliment. - -The room of reception and audience was in a white pine-building, -unpainted. You entered by a flight of three steps. On either side the -room was lighted through white oiled paper in the place of glass, -placed in frames resembling sash-work. The extreme end of the room was -concealed by a large blue flag, having in its centre in white, the -Japanese coat-of-arms, composed of three quarter-moons, whose horns -unite so as to form a circle, around which at intervals, was entwined -a small wreath. The walls of the entrance were covered with paper -screens, having on them the Japanese deified or sacred bird, the crane, -perched on leafless trees. The floor was covered with mats, or rather -straw-cushions, they being some three inches thick, bound on the edges, -and very springy, when walked on. Along the entire length of the room, -were placed low benches for seats, in front of which nearly as low, -were narrow tables covered with red cotton cloth. The temperature of -the room was regulated by charcoal in full heat, placed in copper-pans -as “braziers,” resting in lacquered stands with gilt and ornamental -legs, distributed along the centre of the floor. The company being -seated—the Americans on the left and the Japanese functionaries on the -right, the Japanese interpreter received a message from his prince, -with his nose about two inches from the matting, and then dragging -or sliding himself _à la Turk_ by the use of his arms, to where the -commodore was seated, told Mr. Portman, his clerk, in Dutch, to say -to the commodore, that the prince was glad to see him, and hoped his -health was better. This civility was returned in like manner. They -then went to business: they desired to know what number of persons the -commodore wished to have retire with him in the conference: commodore -said, he wished a room for five, and named the captain of the fleet, -Mr. S. W. Williams of Canton, author of the “Middle kingdom,” his -son—his secretary, and Mr. Portman, who interpreted in Dutch. They -retired into another room in the rear, whose entrance was concealed by -a purple flag. The interview lasted some three hours, during which time -the following answer to the president’s letter was received:— - - The return of your Excellency as Ambassador from the United States to - this Empire, has been expected, according to the letter of his Majesty - the President; which letter your excellency delivered last year to - his Majesty the Emperor of Japan. It is quite impossible to give - satisfactory answers at once to all the proposals of your government, - since those points are most positively forbidden by the laws of our - imperial house; but for us to continue bigotedly attached to the - ancient laws, seems to misunderstand the spirit of the age, and we - wish rather to conform to what necessity requires. - - At the visit of your excellency last year, his Majesty, the former - Emperor, was sick, and is now dead. Since his Majesty, the present - Emperor, has ascended the throne, the many occupations demanding his - care, in consequence thereof are not yet finished, and there is no - time to settle other business thoroughly; moreover, his Majesty the - new Emperor, at his accession to the throne promises to the Princes - and high officers of the Empire to observe the laws. It is therefore - evident, that he can not now bring about any alteration in the ancient - laws. - - Last Autumn at the departure of the Dutch ship, the superintendent of - the Dutch trade in Japan, was requested to inform your government of - this event, and a reply in writing has been received. - - At Nangasaki, the Russian Ambassador recently arrived to communicate - a wish of his government; he has since left that place, because no - answer would be given to any nation that might communicate similar - wishes. - - However, we admit the urgency, and shall entirely comply with the - proposals of your government, concerning, wood, water, provisions, and - the saving of ships and their crews in distress. After being informed, - which harbor your Excellency has selected, that harbor shall be - prepared, and this preparation, it is estimated, will take about five - years. Meanwhile a commencement can be made with the coal at Nangasaki - by the beginning of the next Japanese year [10th of February, 1855]. - - Having no precedent with respect to coal, we request your Excellency - to furnish us with an estimate, and upon due consideration this will - be complied with, if not in opposition to our laws. What do you - understand by provisions? and how much coal? - - Finally, anything ships may be in want of, that can be furnished - from the productions of this Empire shall be supplied; the prices of - merchandise and articles of barter to be fixed by Kuro-kawa Kahei, - and Moriyama Yenoske. After settling the point before mentioned, the - treaty can be concluded, and signed at the next interview. - - Seal attached by order of the Imperial Commissioners. - - (L. S.) MORIYAMA YENOSKE. - Kayei, 7th year, 1st moon, 26th day. - [February 23d, 1854.] - -The commissioners expressed themselves prepared to commence discussions -upon the various points contained in the letter from the president, -presented last year, and also to receive any further propositions -that the commodore might wish to make—that in the determination of -the emperor to make some modification in their laws of seclusion, he -relied upon the friendly disposition of the Americans toward Japan; and -as such negotiations were entirely novel to them, they would trust with -confidence to the commodore’s superior experience, to his generosity, -and his sense of justice. - -Commodore Perry was fully satisfied on all points suggested by him, -which were in accordance with Mr. Webster’s letter of instructions -to Commodore Aulick, accompanying the first letter to the emperor. A -draft treaty, in English, Dutch, Chinese, and Japanese, was put into -the hands of the Japanese commissioners, who said that it would receive -due consideration; but the old emperor had died since Commodore Perry -was there last year, and his successor was a young man, who would -require to consult his council before coming to a determination, and -the commodore was reminded that the Japanese did not act with the same -rapidity as Americans did. - -After these preliminaries had been gotten through, the commodore made -known to the commissioners, that a man had been dead on the Mississippi -for two days, and he desired to know, whether he could not bury him on -an island lower down the bay, which we had already surveyed, and called -after the great statesman, “Webster Island.” They objected strongly to -this, and said, if we would deliver the body to them at Uraga, some -twenty-six miles below, that they would have it safely conveyed to -Nangasaki on the island of Kiusu, a distance of five hundred miles, -and there inter it in the burying-ground, which they have allowed the -Dutch. The commodore would not consent to this, when they agreed to -permit the burial on shore just abreast of our anchorage. They said, -they would have the spot fenced in; most probably because hereafter it -would be tabooed ground with them. - -When the commissioners and commodore retired, the officers of the -escort, who remained, were treated with tea and confections. After -these thin-cooked meats, some bearing great favor to fried snakes, -cut in slips so thin that the hinges of one’s jaw would become tired, -long before his appetite became satisfied, were placed before them -on lacquered plates. This repast produced much disappointment with -the officers; they had paid two official visits to the prince-regent -of Loo-Choo island—a dependency of Japan, and on one occasion were -entertained by him with as many as thirteen different soups at one -feast, and arguing from “man to master,” they anticipated twenty-six -different kinds of soups, when they got their knees under Japanese -pine. To those who were sharp-set, the entertainment of Timon of Athens -could not have been much less satisfactory. - -Equi-distant on the tables, were lacquered trays supported with feet, -on which were placed of the same material, heavy ornamental silver -“tea-pots,” containing saki, while the tea was served in thin-lacquered -cups, resting—to keep the heat from the hand—on circular pieces -of bamboo, resembling the dice-box of a backgammon-board. The Japan -lacquer—and this being a part of the “service” of royalty, must have -been a fair specimen of it, did not strike me as being incomparably -superior to that of the Chinese, as I had supposed. - -When the repast was concluded some Japanese amateur-artists from Yedo, -who had come down from the city in the suite of the commissioners, made -crayon sketches of many of the officers, and seemed to labor under -the impression, that the only thing necessary to make a good American -portrait was to draw a large nose, and sketch the balance of the -features around it. Their essays at representing flowers—the Japonica -for instance, were much better. - -While on shore, I took the opportunity of making a closer inspection -of the Japanese troops, who were standing in line in a neighboring -field. They did not present as good an appearance as when drawn up at -Gorihama, the year before. They did not seem as athletic as the Tartar -troops I saw at the fort back of Canton, or at Shanghae; and it appears -to me, that even if they were armed with the percussion-musket, or the -modern Minie rifle, instead of the antiquated matchlock, old Dutch -muskets, &c., as they are, still their unsoldierly costume, would -prevent, that freedom and quickness of movement, and celerity in the -use of offensive weapons, that now-a-days constitute effective troops. - -In my limited reconnoissance, I took occasion to pull some of the -family Camellia Japonicas, that were growing wild. One of the -two-sworded gentry seeing me standing near the beach, with a bunch in -my hand, desired to know the name of the flower in “American.” Upon -being told he repeated the word until he got our pronunciation quite -accurately, and then wrote it down in a small soft-paper book with a -camel’s hair pencil, they always going provided with these, together -with a small bronze ink-holder, and a handle to contain the pencil, -at a short distance not unlike a small pipe, with the bowl downward. -I retorted his question and requested the name of the flower in -“Nip-pon,” as they called their country. He said, “T’su-bi-ki.” The -“illustrious stranger”—wearied me more than himself with the number -of his queries. I had to catalogue nearly every article in my wardrobe -in English for him, which he invariably noted down. Upon showing him -my watch, he pronounced the word “chronometer” quite plainly; and on -espying when the case was opened, my name engraved on the back, he -wanted to know what it was. Touching myself I pronounced my name, which -he wrote down, but hardly succeeded in repeating. They can not say “l,” -but call it “r.” The word “glove,” which they call “grove,” is too much -for them. - -In the interview, the subject of supplying us with coal was broached, -which they gave a favorable response to, and promised to have some -specimen, of what coal they had, ready for inspection in a short -time. This contrasted strongly with the dissimulation practised by -them during the stay of the “Preble” at Nangasaki in 1849. Then, those -Japanese who came on board, affected the greatest curiosity in looking -at the coal in the armorer’s forge; they were much surprised at the -heated rocks, and one of them asked permission to take ashore a piece -of the coal, which he carefully wrapped in paper. - -The next day Japanese officials were aboard of the Mississippi, and -held interviews there with the captain of the fleet, with regard to -furnishing fresh provisions to the ships. - -During the forenoon, the mayor of Uraga, and the interpreter and -other officials came aboard, and accompanied the men sent to dig the -grave for the man who had died, to point out the spot on shore. The -burial, which took place some hours after, with the consent of the -authorities who were standing by, and in the presence of thousands of -the population, accompanied with the religious service of Christians, -was an event of much significance, when the inscription that was put by -the Japanese over the massacred Christians at Simabara is recollected: -“So long as the sun shall warm the earth, let no Christian be so bold -as to come to Japan; and let all know that the king of Spain himself, -or the Christian’s God, or the great God of all, if he violates this -command, shall pay for it with his head.” The settled oppugnation to -Christianity, of more than two hundred years, was broken through with -this burial from an American man-of-war. - -Not having been present at the interment, I am indebted, for an account -of it, to the chaplain of the Mississippi—a man of great energy -of character, and who, in addition to his clerical duties on board -ship, occupied himself with literary labor, and with an indomitable -perseverance and love for scientific discovery, during the whole -cruise, at every hour of the night, addressed himself to the task of -observing the various phases of what has been called the zodiacal -light; and to his midnight labor and zeal, the astronomical world may -yet be indebted for a solution of the vexed question about this light. - -“Our preparations were for an interment exactly after our usual -method upon the occasion of the burial of a marine. A great many of -the officers would have liked to have gone, and some applied for -permission; but it was thought best to give the occasion no unusual -eclat, while at the same time nothing was to be omitted. - -“About three o’clock, after ‘all hands’ had been called to ‘bury the -dead,’ and the chaplain had read from the gangway the customary passage -of the Scripture, we left the ship in two boats, with the flags at -half-mast; the first contained Captain Slack of the marine corps, -assistant-surgeon Lynah, and myself, in uniform and gown; and the -other boat having the dead body, with a guard of honor, consisting of a -corporal and six marines. We landed at a spot designated—a quarter of -a mile south of the landing-place of yesterday, and in front of a large -village—Yokohama, the whole shore being lined with villagers who had -come to gaze. The mayor of Uraga, interpreter, &c., received us there. -I had expected that on their seeing me in my official costume, and -first knowing that there was a Christian minister on their shore and -among them, that there would be a recoil, and that they would shrink -from me as from something poisonous. But there was no such thing. On -the contrary, they came up successively and gave me their hand for -a shake. (They have learned our salutation, and seem to be fond of -it). The interpreter, pointing to my prayer-book, asked if it was for -ceremonies over the dead, and smiled as before, when I told him that -it was. The marines were formed in line and received the body with -presented arms, when the procession was formed and moved on: marines -with reversed arms; fife and muffled-drum playing the Dead March; -the chaplain; coffin borne by four marines; their captain, surgeon, -hospital-steward, and six or eight sailors. Our way lay through the -village, and the occasion seemed to excite quite a holy-day among them; -everybody, men, women, and children, running and gaining good places -for seeing, and squatting down on the ground till we had passed, when -they would run and gain another place for observation if they could. -The street through which we passed was, however, kept clear, and at -intervals I noticed new boards stuck up, with inscriptions, probably to -warn people from intruding on our way. But the people, even women and -children, showed no fear nor any hesitation in coming near us, or in -being seen themselves; and some shops that we passed were kept open as -usual. I saw myself often pointed out, being doubtless recognised by -my gown and book as the clergyman of the party, but it was without any -exhibition of displeasure on their countenance; but as they would look -at any other curiosity. I saw one woman hold up her little child to see -me, and the thought passed through my mind that, if it should live to -maturity, it would probably see many wonderful changes in Japan. - -“Our way led quite through the village, at the further end of which, -on a wooded hill at our left, was a temple with two different flights -of steps leading up to it, and ornamented gateways below. Through -the further of these gateways, I now saw a Buddhist priest in his -officiating costume emerge, and perceived that he took his way toward -some fresh earth—the grave, a little beyond. - -“They had selected for the interment a very pretty spot about a hundred -yards from the village, and closely adjoining an old burying-ground of -their own. We found the Buddhist priest seated there, but he attempted -no interference with our religious ceremonies, which I commenced (all -uncovering), as we approached the grave. - -“The scene, at this time, was an exceedingly interesting one; even -apart from its being the first breaking through of the Japanese settled -opposition to Christianity. The hills here formed a semi-circular -sweep, and at one end of the semicircle we were standing. On the -opposite side, on the heights above, was the Buddhist temple. The sides -of these hills, and the whole sweep of the crest were covered with -people, quiet, and attentive spectators of what was going on. - -“Close to us stood the Japanese officials, just below the grave. The -marines in line on the other side, and near them on a mat sat the -old Buddhist priest, with a little table before him, on which were a -number of papers, &c., with incense burning in their midst. Everybody -was quiet and attentive while we went through our usual service for -the solemn burial of the dead. Then the marines fired three volleys -over the grave. As the first volley was given there was a half shout -on the hills around, as if giving vent to deep observation and pent-up -curiosity, the number of which was computed by one of our officers at -two thousand. - -“While they were filling up the grave, I asked permission to examine -their burying-ground, which they readily gave, the interpreter also -going with me and explaining the several parts. Against the side of -the hill is a range of sculptured stones, which he said were their -gods; some had bas-reliefs of figures like human beings on them. Across -the space were lines of small head-stones—some of these also with -human figures sculptured in bas-relief on their front, others with -inscriptions. These were commemorative of individuals buried below; and -when I observed to the interpreter that the space for each body was -very small, he replied that the dead in Japan were buried in a _sitting -posture_. - -“I then went down to the Buddhist priest, a venerable-looking man of -about seventy-five years of age, who was very friendly and showed me -his rosary, half of the beads in which were glass, and half wood; also -his book. - -“The interpreter opened the papers and showed us their contents, -and stated that the Buddhist had come there ‘as a compliment to Mr. -Williams’ (Williams having been the name of the deceased). On the -little table, in addition to the incense-box, and some rolls of unknown -material and paper, were also a bowl of cooked rice, a covered vessel -filled with saki, and a small gong. The priest now commenced his -ceremonies, sometimes touching the gong, sometimes stirring the saki; -while he thumbed his beads, and then muffling his hands in his robe and -bowing his head, he read some prayers in a low, unintelligible voice. -His outer dress was a pouch of very rich brocade silk covered with -fanciful figures. - -“After putting head and foot boards with inscription to the grave; -and covering it in our usual manner, we left the Buddhist priest -still engaged at his ceremonies and set out on our return, the crowds -gathering around as before, and all very civil and polite, so with drum -and fife playing we returned to our boats.” - -Conferences were now held daily, and negotiations progressed slowly, -but harmoniously. - -It was agreed that everything official, that transpired at these -interviews, should be committed to writing that nothing might be -misunderstood, nor retracted. - -On the days of assembling, an imperial barge with a canopy and gaudy -streamers, moving like the stately boat of some Doge, towed by a number -of boats, conveyed the high commissioner and suite from Kanagawa to the -place of meeting. - -Among the presents intended for the emperor was a small railroad-track, -with locomotive-tender, car, &c., and a magnetic telegraph, which were -erected and put in operation on shore. - -These excited a great deal of interest among the Japanese, particularly -the latter, when they were made to comprehend its utility in the -transmission of intelligence. Communications were made in their -presence in the English, Japanese, and Dutch languages. They were also -delighted with the railroad, when they saw the engine and car flying -round the track at the rate of twenty miles an hour, but thought it -would be impossible to construct them to advantage in Japan owing to -the very uneven surface of the country. - -Nearly two centuries ago, the Jesuits in China seeing how necessary the -protection of the government was for their propagandism, made a number -of things to amuse and excite the curiosity of the emperor _Kang-hi_. -One of their inventions resembled the modern locomotive, though on -the Ericsson plan; it was made, like the locomotive presented to the -emperor of Japan, at Yokohama, to run in a circle also. In the large -old folio history of China, from the French of Du Halde, printed in -London one hundred and nineteen years ago (a copy of which is in the -possession of John V. L. M’Mahon, Esq., of Baltimore), I find the -following:— - -“The Pneumatick Machines also, did not less excite the Emperor’s -curiosity: - -“They caused a Waggon to be made of light Wood about two Foot long: in -the middle of it they placed a Brazen Vessel full of _live_ coals, and -upon that an Æolipile, the wind of which came down through a little -Pipe upon a sort of a wheel made like the sails of a Wind mill; this -little wheel turned another with an Axle tree, and by that means set -the Waggon in Motion for two hours together. But lest room should -be wanting to proceed constantly forward it was contrived to move -circularly.” - -Negotiations having progressed harmoniously, on the 13th of March -launches were sent alongside of the storeships, and the presents for -the Japanese being put in them, the captain of the Macedonian with a -suite of officers, pulled ashore, and delivered them _pro forma_ to the -authorities. They were afterward pleasantly entertained by them. The -Japanese must have formed a rather exaggerated opinion of the quantity -of the presents intended for them by the Americans—judging from the -size of the room set apart for their reception. They were given to -understand that these were tokens of amity, not a tribute. - -The presents for the emperor consisted of, among other things:— - -A railway with steam-engine; a magnetic telegraph; a surf-boat; a -life-boat; a printing-press; a fine lorgnette; a set of Audubon’s -American Ornithology, splendidly bound; plates of American Indians; -maps of different states of America; agricultural implements, with all -the modern improvements; a piece of cloth; a bale of cotton; a stove; -rifles, pistols, and swords; champagne, cordials, and American whiskey. - -And for the empress (presuming there was one):— - -A telescope; a lorgnette in a gilded case; a lady’s toilet-box, -gilded; a scarlet velvet dress; a changeable silk dress flowered; a -splendid robe; Audubon’s illustrated works; a handsome set of China; -a mantelpiece clock; a parlor stove; a box of fine wines; a box of -perfumery; a box of fancy soaps. - -Among the presents, perhaps the one most valued, was a copy of -Webster’s complete dictionary, to the imperial interpreter. To the high -officers were given books, rifles, pistols, swords, wines, cloths, -maps, stoves, clocks, and cordials, the latter of which they fully -appreciated; and as regards clocks, when it was proposed to bring an -engineer from shipboard to set them agoing, the Japanese said there was -no occasion for that, for they had clockmakers in Yedo who understood -them perfectly. They were curious to know, however, if Ericsson’s -caloric engine, of which they had heard, had been successful. There -were also given them a quantity of Irish potatoes, and an hydraulic-ram. - -We had now been lying in their waters a month; the necessity for the -reference of many things to Yedo, caused the negotiations to drag -their weary length along. Diplomatizing may have been all very well -for those engaged in it, and getting a munch of something fresh the -while on shore, but the enchantment lent to those confined on board and -compelled to watch proceedings with a spy-glass, or take exercise on a -hurricane-deck, was very slight indeed. The supply of eatables brought -from China had disappeared; ship’s rations were ubiquitous upon the -table; and the appetite of an American exceeding, or at his ordinary -meals consuming as much as four Japanese, the scanty supply of watery -vegetables, a few pounds of fish, sweet potatoes, and chickens which -had attained their majority, and upon whose muscular thighs neither the -molars nor incisors of the most assiduous masculine chewer could make -any impression—which negotiation obtained from shore—when distributed -by signal from a storeship among a whole squadron, went but a little -way. We were undergoing all the annoyances of a state of siege, without -any of its excitements. And “Oh! it is sweet for one’s country to -die,”—but not of short commons. - -The Japanese said they had no objection to the officers going ashore -to walk about the towns of Yokohama and Kanagawa, but trusted they -would not for the present go further; the people had not become used -to strangers, and their presence might produce unnecessary excitement -among them. - -The chaplain of the Susquehanna was ashore on the 14th, and took a long -stroll, not getting aboard until ten o’clock at night. Had he made the -best of his time he might have had a sight of the city of Yedo, but he -spent some two or three hours in going to and fro in Kanagawa, and an -adjoining place, which enabled the wily Japanese authorities time to -communicate his whereabouts to the commodore, and to make complaint of -it. He visited the very populous city of Kanagawa, and also Kasacca. - -At a wave of the hand of the Japanese officials who accompanied him, -the crowds of people opened a clear passage in the centre of the street -for him. He entered some of the houses, which he found primitive in -their furniture and arrangements, but, compared with other oriental -dwellings of the same class, neat, clean, and comfortable. In some -of them he observed clocks of Japanese manufacture. He also visited -several temples, which though smaller than in China, have more gilding -on their walls, and ornaments on their idols, and generally are in -better order. The priests as well as the people were distinguished for -their courtesy. - -The cities thus visited were not only very extensive (estimated to -be six miles long), but had wide, well-formed streets. As he was -returning, a Japanese officer put into his hands an order from the -commodore for all officers to return on board, and shortly afterward -a courier, mounted on a splendid black horse, delivered a similar -despatch, and finding it was understood and acted on, turned round and -galloped back again to report the approach of the American officer, who -concluded his journey by torch-light, and found on his arrival that -everything that had occurred had been noted, even the number of buttons -on his coat being recorded. On his route he met the escort and train of -some high functionary, supposed to number some two thousand. They were -supposed to be conveying to Yokohama the few presents which they said -the emperor could only now send, for want of time to prepare others. - -The negotiations, which were interrupted by the equinoctial gale, -were resumed on the 17th of March. The commodore wished them to give -us three or four ports; his squadron was a powerful one; but if he -carried back an unsatisfactory answer to his government it would send -another and a larger one for a different purpose. The Japanese were -willing to give us one port then, and another in five years; they said -they could not grant a port in the island of Yezo—hitherto called -Matsmai—without consulting the prince of that department. To this, it -was replied, “Give the port in the island of Niphon, and the squadron -would go to see the prince of Matsmai.” - -On the 19th of March the squadron was increased by the arrival of -the storeship Supply, from China. She brought us the intelligence -of a naval engagement between the Russians and the Turks; but the -disappointment of many in not getting letters was great, and they -thought - - Oh the troubles that do espan, - The man who _will go_ to Japan! - -The Japanese having offered the harbor of Simoda, in the province -of Idzoo, as one of the ports for American ships to visit, the -Vandalia and Southampton were sent down to that place, to make a -reconnoissance, and to report upon its facilities of entrance, and -capacity. The weather was raw, rough, squally, and rainy. Agreeably -to instructions from the government, received before leaving China—a -wise thing, as naval commanders are always very chary, and not at -all disposed to render any more facilities to the foreign diplomatic -agents of the country, than they can help, on the 25th of the month, -the steam-frigate Susquehanna left Japan for Hong Kong, to convey the -new American commissioner to such of the Cinque ports as he desired to -visit. - -On the same day there was a landing, not for purposes of negotiation, -but for the reception of the presents from the Japanese, which -consisted of lacquered cabinets, desks, some silks, bags of rice, &c., -not very numerous or at all comparable in use or value to those given -them. On this occasion there was quite a number of officials present, -who were compelled to manifest curiosity, when they saw the beautiful -little locomotive, with its highly-finished rosewood car, complete in -all the customary furniture, driven by a charcoal-fire alone, at a rate -of a mile in three minutes, around a circular track of three hundred -feet. The Americans were entertained with the contests in the ring -of some Japanese athletes. These men were of great stature and much -obesity, but their limbs displayed none of the angular muscularity, of -a Monsieur Paul, lifting his cannon or resisting the draught of horses, -or the pugilistic activity of the American Tom Hyers and Sullivans, who -could no doubt whale them with little difficulty. These men are in the -pay of princes, and have such designations as “Giant of the North,” &c. -Their hair is gathered upon their head, as others of their country, -though not shorn, perhaps to prevent their Samsonian qualities being -affected. In front of their persons, which is otherwise unclothed, they -wear a scarf, with the insignia of the prince they serve upon it. They -commence with an exhibition of their strength, such as throwing with -each hand over the shoulder, or lying on the ground, and somerseting -with large straw-bags containing two hundred pounds of rice each. Then -came the trial of the ring, not more than eight feet in diameter, and -made of rice straw. Before commencing the combatants squatted and -rubbed their knees, as if to assure themselves of their strength, and -then rubbed a little dust under each arm, something like an infuriated -cow, when she throws it on her back, and then with a grunt they -closed, and though the claret was occasionally drawn, and great welts -were raised upon the shoulders, yet there did not appear much of that -belicosity, descriptions of which have graced some of the columns of -the papers of our own country, since the infusion into it of Bill Poole -blackguardism. The effort was rather to get one another out of the -ring, when the effort ends. After being sufficiently amused at this -_intellectual_ display, the commodore and party returned aboard. - -Nearly every day, some of the Japanese officials came off to the -flag-ship to arrange in the preparation of the treaty, that matters -might be facilitated during the formal interviews held ashore. Chief -at such times, on their part, was Moriyama Yenoske, the imperial -interpreter in the Dutch language; indeed he was _the_ man of the -treaty, so far as the Japanese were concerned; to his friendly regard -to the Americans, his clear appreciation of propositions, and the -accurate conveyance of them to the minds of the commissioners by his -translations, we are much indebted. - -On the 27th an entertainment was given to the commissioners on board of -the flag-ship. It was the first time that the Japanese imperial flag -floated from the mast-heads of foreign men-of-war. The guests came -off about three o’clock in the afternoon. On passing the Mississippi -they received a salute of seventeen great guns. They first went aboard -of the Macedonian, when her crew were beat to general quarters, and -the broadside-guns of the ship, together with her large “pivots,” -exercised before them. From here they went to the flag-ship Powhatan, -but some of them, who had changed from their steady-moving boats, -by invitation, to our buoyant and lively ones, did not have their -appetites for the repast that awaited them, improved by the qualmy -motion. On the Powhatan they were shown the exercise and rapid firing -of the twelve-pounder howitzers, in which they appeared to take much -interest. They then partook of a dinner, which had been spread for -them: the commissioners dining with the commodore, and the rest of the -company from tables spread under the awnings of the quarter-deck. The -Japanese did full justice to the dishes before them, and when partaken -to satiety, they aided the disappearance of the food, after the manner -of their country, by wrapping up and taking away an occasional pie or -sweetmeat of which they are very fond. Music from the band regaled the -occasion, and as the hermetics drained their draughts of champagne -and cordial down, they became very social, if not confidential, -and proposed frequent sentiments of friendship between “Nipong” -and America. With such a people, John Barleycorn is very potent: -particularly in treaty-making. At night on the forecastle the Japanese -witnessed a capital Ethiopic performance, at which they appeared much -amused. Indeed their stoic gravity had pretty well left them before -this hour, and one of them, during the evening, indulged in a polka -under the hurricane-deck with a very intelligent midshipman. They left -at an early hour for the shore, and after a salute from the Saratoga, -their flag was hauled down. One of the commissioners had a fancy for a -large cake, which was given him by the commodore, together with some -cordial, to be sent ashore the next day. During the night one of the -orderlies at the cabin-door stole and made away with the cake. Not -wishing to give the Japanese the bad idea of our men, that the mention -of this theft might produce, the diplomacy was resorted to of telling -the Japanese, when presenting the wine, that it was an American custom -to present cake in the evening; by which time, another one had been -made, and was sent ashore. - -On the last day of March, the ships having gotten back from Simoda, -and made their report as to that harbor, the commodore had his last -official interview ashore, with the commissioners, at Yokahama, -Kanagawa, when after much difficulty, and talking, and debate as to the -wording, the following treaty was signed:— - - The United States of America and the Empire of Japan, desiring to - establish firm, lasting, and sincere friendship between the two - nations have resolved to fix, in a manner clear and positive, by means - of a treaty or general convention of peace and amity, the rules which - shall in future be mutually observed in the intercourse of their - respective countries, for which most desirable object the President - of the United States has conferred full powers on his commissioner, - Matthew Calbraith Perry, special ambassador of the United States - to Japan, and the august sovereign of Japan has given similar full - powers to his commissioners, Hayashi, Daigaku-nokami, Ido, prince of - Tsus-Sima, Izawa, prince of Mimasaki, and Udono, member of the board - of revenue. And the said commissioners, after having exchanged their - said full powers, and duly considered the premises, have agreed to the - following articles: - - - ARTICLE I. - - There shall be a perfect, permanent, and universal peace and a sincere - and cordial amity between the United States of America on the one - part, and the empire of Japan on the other part, and between their - people respectively, without exceptions of persons or places. - - - ARTICLE II. - - The port of Simoda, in the principality of Idzu, and the port of - Hakodade, in the principality of Matsmai, are granted by the Japanese - as ports for the reception of American ships, where they can be - supplied with wood, water, provisions, coal, and other articles - their necessities may require, as far as the Japanese have them. The - time for opening the first-named port is immediately on signing this - treaty; the last-named port to be immediately after the same day in - the ensuing Japanese year. [_Note._—A tariff of prices shall be given - by the Japanese officers of the things which they can furnish, payment - for which shall be made in gold and silver coin.] - - - ARTICLE III. - - Whenever ships of the United States are thrown or wrecked on the coast - of Japan, the Japanese vessels will assist them, and carry their - crews to Simoda, or Hakodade, and hand them over to their countrymen - appointed to receive them; whatever articles the shipwrecked men may - have preserved shall likewise be restored, and the expenses incurred - in the rescue and support of Americans and Japanese who may thus be - thrown upon the shores of either nation are not to be refunded. - - - ARTICLE IV. - - Those shipwrecked persons and other citizens of the United States - shall be free as in other countries, and not subject to confinement, - but shall be amenable to just laws. - - - ARTICLE V. - - Shipwrecked men and other citizens of the United States, temporarily - living at Simoda and Hakodade, shall not be subject to such - restrictions and confinement as the Dutch and Chinese are at Nagasaki, - but shall be free at Simoda to go where they please within the limits - of seven Japanese miles (or _ri_) from a small island in the harbor of - Simoda, marked on the accompanying chart hereto appended; and shall in - like manner be free to go where they please at Hakodade, within limits - to be defined after the visit of the United States squadron to that - place. - - - ARTICLE VI. - - If there be any other sort of goods wanted, or any business which - shall require to be arranged, there shall be careful deliberation - between the parties in order to settle such matters. - - - ARTICLE VII. - - It is agreed that ships of the United States resorting to the ports - open to them shall be permitted to exchange gold and silver coin and - articles of goods for other articles of goods, under such regulations - as shall be temporarily established by the Japanese government for - that purpose. It is stipulated, however, that the ships of the United - States shall not be permitted to carry away whatever articles they are - unwilling to exchange. - - - ARTICLE VIII. - - Wood, water, provisions, coal, and goods required, shall only be - procured through the agency of Japanese officers appointed for that - purpose, and in no other manner. - - - ARTICLE IX. - - It is agreed that if at any future day the government of Japan shall - grant to any other nation or nations, privileges and advantages which - are not herein granted to the United States and the citizens thereof, - these same privileges and advantages shall be granted likewise to the - United States and to the citizens thereof, without any consultation or - delay. - - - ARTICLE X. - - Ships of the United States shall be permitted to resort to no other - ports in Japan but Simoda and Hakodade, unless in distress or forced - by stress of weather. - - - ARTICLE XI. - - There shall be appointed by the government of the United States - consuls or agents to reside in Simoda, at any time after the - expiration of eighteen months from the date of the signing of this - treaty; provided that either of the two governments deem such - arrangement necessary. - - - ARTICLE XII. - - The present convention having been concluded and duly signed, shall - be obligatory and faithfully observed by the United States of America - and Japan, and by the citizens and subjects of each respective power; - and it is to be ratified and approved by the President of the United - States, by and with the advice and consent of the Senate thereof, - and by the august sovereign of Japan, and the ratification shall - be exchanged within eighteen months from the date of the signature - thereof, or sooner if practicable. - - In faith whereof, we, the respective plenipotentiaries of the United - States of America and the empire of Japan aforesaid, have signed and - sealed these presents. - - Done at Kanagawa this thirty-first day of March, in the year of our - Lord Jesus Christ one thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, and of - Kayei, the seventh year, third month, and third day. - - M. C. PERRY. - -“The respective plenipotentiaries” did not sign. - -The night before the signing of the treaty, the officials were aboard -of the flag-ship until a very late hour, composing with great care -the various prepared copies of the treaty, as they had been enrolled. -In the Japanese copy they discovered an error in the formation of -one character, which they desired to be altered to prevent as they -said, any misconstruction hereafter. They did not understand the -“ratification” of treaties: with them an obligation once signed, -was full and complete, and they did not see any necessity for any -supplementary action by the contracting parties. - -After the signing of the treaty the commodore intimated his purpose -of going up to Yedo and saluting the emperor; if he could not reach -the city in his steamers, he could in the ship’s boats. To this they -objected. They were told if they had objections, they should have -included them in the treaty. - -This treaty, it will be seen, is not one of commerce, but of friendship -or amity. It is said that the Japanese had some objection to signing -their copy with the words “Lord Jesus Christ” in it. It was understood, -that Hakodade was not to be visited by the squadron, until fifty days -had elapsed from the date of signing. - -The Japanese were desirous of knowing from our fleet-captain, whether -the English and the French were coming up to Japan, when the American -squadron should have left: the answer was, we did not know. - -There was something rather mysterious about Yezimon, the little -deputy-governor of Uraga. At the time of our first visit, he took -quite a conspicuous part in all the intercourse, but on our return, it -appears, he had to pale his ineffectual fire before greater luminaries. -Very little was seen of him, indeed, if he was seen at all on our -return. The great familiarity and sociability that he had displayed -when on board of our ships had probably gotten him into trouble. The -officials declined saying anything about him; when he was asked for, -and one of the officers informed them that he had a Colt’s revolver -which he desired to present to Yezimon before leaving, they said they -had rather that it should not be done, and added, that they could not -speak about him. - -On the 4th of April, after an absence from the United States of over -four years, the sloop-of-war Saratoga left for home. In her went as -passenger Commander H. A. Adams, captain of the fleet—bearing to the -United States, by way of the Sandwich Islands and the Californian -route, copies of the treaty in English and Japanese, and three copies -in Dutch certified to by A. L. C. Portman, Esq., and Moriyama Yenoske, -intended to be the first intelligence home of the completion of the -treaty. There also went home in her a number of invalid officers who -had undergone the enervation and emaciation produced by the heat and -diseases of an East India climate. As the Saratoga passed out she fired -her parting salute, and was cheered by the remaining ships of the -squadron, the bands playing “Home, Sweet Home!” in a manner that caused -each heart to heave. Every one who thought of the long while she had -been out, wished fair winds to fill her sails, and Heaven speed her! - -The interpreter, and others, continued their friendly visits to the -ships, wearing when the weather was bad, a singular rain-cloak called -_meno_, made up of a number of tassels of a kind of mountain fern, -pendent from the junction of meshes knit from the same material, and -having outside a covering of green silk network. They would tell us -in answer to the question “Could we now see the emperor?” “No; too -young man.” They had told us that it would require some days before -they could arrange a bazar at Simoda, where we might be able to -procure specimens of their lacquer-ware, porcelain, &c.; and in the -meantime our surveying-boats, when the weather would permit, were kept -constantly going. - -The 10th of April, being the birthday of the commodore, I suppose -he wished to signalize it by a nearer approach to the city of Yedo, -and accordingly early in the morning a signal was thrown out for the -squadron to get under way, which was done, the Mississippi leading -up the bay, and the Powhatan and the sailing ships following, with -the exception of the Lexington, which got aground just as her anchor -was away. This movement being perceived from shore, the Japanese -interpreters Moriyama Yenoske, Hernyama, Gohara, and Namura Gohachiro, -third interpreter, at once rowed off under much excitement. The latter -came aboard of the Mississippi, the others went on board of the -flag-ship; where they ascertained the commodore’s intention of going -higher up the bay, Yenoske objected most strenuously, urging that the -lives of each of the commissioners, and himself, were in danger for -not preventing (?) it, or remonstrating against it; or previously -advising their government; they said they could not tell but it was not -possible to calculate the consequences. In reply, the commodore said -that his instructions from the president were to go up to Yedo, and -that he would have done so, but for the feelings of friendship that he -entertained for the commissioners who preferred Yokohama for holding -the conferences. They gave it to be understood that the anchoring of -the ships off Yedo, would at once require of them the performance of -the “Hari Kari,” or happy despatch—that they would be necessitated to -this, according to a custom which it was no use to argue against, to -save themselves and those related to them from dishonor; and that such -was the case with each of the commissioners. - -_Hari Kari_, meaning “happy despatch,” is the act of disembowelling -one’s self with a sword, among the Japanese. The young man, of -any family pretensions, is early indoctrinated in the art of -self-destruction. He is also instructed as to the occasions and -circumstances when this form of suicide is appropriate for a gentleman, -either to preserve himself or those connected with him from dishonor. -It is given him strictly in charge, to remember that the wearing of -the badge of his position—two swords—is also typical of his courage; -perhaps as Napoleon said, that he who cares nothing for his own life is -master of that of others; and that one of these swords, like the dagger -of Brutus, is for himself, when his country shall need his death. He -desires that it shall be said of him, what Malcolm says of Cawdor:— - - “Nothing in his life - Became him like the leaving it: he died - As one that had been studied in his death, - To throw away the dearest thing he owed, - As ’twere a careless trifle.” - -Or as Decitas said of Anthony:- - - “He is dead, - By that self hand, - Which writ his honor in the acts it did.” - -[Illustration: _LITH. OF SARONY & Co. NEW YORK._ - NEAR YEDO.] - -The commodore promised that the two steamers should only go up in -sight of Yedo, and without dropping anchor, return. This quieted their -apprehensions considerably. About twelve o’clock, when we had gotten -a distant view of the great city, the water suddenly shoaled so as to -prevent our further progress, when the boats that had been sounding -ahead were recalled, the steamers put about, and the whole squadron -proceeded directly down the bay to the anchorage off _Nati Sima_, or as -called by us, _Webster_ island, with the exception of the Mississippi -that was sent to the assistance of the Lexington, but that ship having -kedged off, we towed her to where the remaining ships had anchored. - -Poor Namura Gohachiro, the third interpreter, who was aboard of us -during the day’s movements, looked the while like a man whose time -had come. He evinced no interest in anything that was going on around -him, and during the day did not look over the side. He complained of -sickness, and Jamaica ginger gave him no relief; he put aside his two -swords, and lay on the cabin sofa; his great inquietude lasted until we -had dropped anchor off Webster island, when he experienced the greatest -relief, going over the side into his boat, which we had towed during -the day, looking like one from around whose neck the halter had been -taken. - -The yearly number of those who now commit the Hari Kari, or “happy -despatch,” in Japan, is estimated at four hundred. - -The principal cause of the alarm of the Japanese officers, on the -approach of the ships to Yedo, was in some anticipated outbreak on the -part of its rabble, who must comprise a great number in a city of over -fourteen hundred thousand inhabitants. These lazzaroni have more than -once threatened the stability of the government; a huge unmanageable -mob threatening destruction, and deaf to reason; a horrid hydra easily -moved, but controlled only with great power and force. The effect upon -such a population of the novel sight of two large steamers off their -city, who in addition to other engines of destruction, were believed to -have on board steam-guns, can be easily imagined, especially when the -mob never expected to see such a sight again. Then, too, they are more -eager after novelty because of having been kept in ignorance by the -stringent laws against foreigners; and they have been taught that they -are beneath laws. - -Such is the intense curiosity of the Japanese character, and the great -rush to gratify it, that at one time, before the signing of the treaty, -there was as many as seventy thousand people from all parts of the -country, congregated in Kanagawa and its immediate vicinity, eager -to get a look at our ships, and endeavoring to get aboard. To furnish -a pretext for their assemblage near the place of negotiations, many -resorted to the ruse of offering their services to the authorities, -in the event of the negotiations with the Americans, taking a hostile -turn. Many of the princes of the empire, anxious to see the ships and -not being able to get permission or authority to do so, resorted to the -plan of getting on board by going disguised in the suite of Moriyama -Yenoske, the chief interpreter. On one occasion—April 4th—a number -of Japanese gentlemen of rank, having obtained permission to visit the -ships, it was surmised, and upon very good authority, that the young -emperor himself had been aboard. His features would probably not be -known to one of his subjects outside of his immediate attendants or -council. The boldness and tact with which they manage _nayboen_ matters -is remarkable. The interpreters were always very cautious, and never -committed themselves by giving information. A great many of the better -class Japanese, who came aboard, were able to write, and sometimes -speak a little Dutch (Holland), and generally expressed themselves with -much correctness. - -The next morning, after anchoring off _Nati Sima_, the Macedonian was -despatched to the Bonin islands with some agricultural implements, and -to look after some men, with orders to join us at Simoda. - -While our surveying boats were running their line of soundings, and -triangulating in the vicinity of the anchorage, some of the officers, -in other boats, paid visits to Webster island, which afforded a fine -opportunity for exercise, besides being a very pretty view. Before -returning to the ships, we pulled into a number of little inlets and -small bays near by. The hill-sides were well wooded, and the deep green -of the thorough cultivation on terraces and steppes was delightful to -the eye. In some obscure coves, were built stone piers for landing, and -a number of junks had been beached, and their owners were preparing -them, or firing their bottoms, that the sea slime might be removed -and their speed increased. In others, the fronts of large quarries of -sandstone, and what appeared to be fuller’s earth, approach the edge of -the water. The latter was cut away in square blocks, leaving the face -of the hills like the smooth masonry of a curtain-wall and bastion. - -On the morning of the 18th of April, the Vandalia and Lexington having -preceded us, the Powhatan and Mississippi steamed slowly out of the -bay of Yedo, running a line of soundings from the ships as we went, -after passing Sagama cape, the two ships stood over in the direction -of Ohosima, that the bearings of that island might be taken, and then -headed off southward and westward, leaving the bay of Kawatsu on our -right hand. The volcano on Ohorima was not in a state of eruption, as -when we passed it three months before. We soon saw Cape Idzoo, and by -three o’clock were up with Rock island, that marks the mouth, and ran -into the harbor of Simoda. This place from having been visited in May, -1849, by the English man-of-war Mariner, our own sailing ships, which -preceded us, were no novelty to the people, but the approach of the -Powhatan and Mississippi running in a straight line through the narrow -entrance, filled the height on either side with a throng, looking for -the first time, and with wonder, on steamships. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - - -Simoda—in Japanese “Lowerfield”—situated in the principality of -Idzoo, which occupies about the same latitudinal, though not isothermal -lines—as our state of North Carolina, is a place containing a -population of twenty thousand. The streets are narrow, though regularly -laid out, and at their intersections have gates, which may be easily -closed in the event of any _emeute_. At their points are also placed -stone structures, surmounted by little roofs protecting copies of the -laws and municipal regulations so conspicuously posted, that all who -run, may read. The houses, which are usually and ornamentally stuccoed -in light blue and white diamond shapes, are nearly all of one story -with parapets, and without chimneys. Between the parapets wires are -stretched to prevent the bird, which “by the hoarseness of its note -doth indicate a crow,” from alighting on the roofs. The Japanese -certainly can’t regard them as a bird of evil omen, from the great -numbers that fill their streets. Perhaps they are kept from injury, -for sanitary purposes, like one more ungainly, found in our southern -cities. There are a number of temples in and near the place, dedicated -to different deities. Behind the town stretches a lovely level valley -for some miles, through which flows a little stream—Simoda gawa, -and surrounded on either side by towering bluff-hills, that make the -resemblance very great to the scenery on the Potomac, at Harper’s -Ferry. From this stream, junks and ships are supplied with fresh water, -and on its banks are built rice and grain mills, with undershot wheels, -to turn which, the water is diverted from its course by artificial -excavations. The amphitheatre of high hills that surround the place -in other directions, is very thickly wooded, and presents a green and -lovely prospect from the water. The town has about fifteen hundred -houses, and it is wonderful to see how many people a Japanese town will -hold. - -The harbor of Simoda, though of rather difficult access at times to -sailing vessels, and subject to quite a heavy swell, when the wind -blows from a southerly direction, is quite a secure one, after getting -in. The entrance is narrow between high bluffs, but on passing inside, -the water spreads into a fan-shaped bay, with a bight, on which the -principal town of Simoda is situated, on the left hand, which place -is not visible until reaching a central island. It is encompassed on -every hand by high hills, bleak and uninviting in some patches, and -others cultivated in terraced fields of rice and wheat, or clothed in -the deep verdure of the pine and other trees. Across the bay of Simoda -about half a mile round a sweep of white level-shiny beach, on which -the waves sullenly chafe, is a little fishing village, called Kakizaki, -which also has its temples. Here was a spring possessed of sulphurous -qualities; and on the beach the ship’s seines were hauled with some -success. - -Having to remain at Simoda some time, a party under Lieutenant Maury -was at once set at work to make a survey of the harbor. The officers -spent their time ashore in strolls through the town, visits to the -temples, rambles into the country, occasionally taking a gun, though -there was very little to kill. The people, when we landed, appeared -glad to see us, and were always inclined to be sociable, but for the -omnipresence of their police. They would gather around and examine -the cloth of our clothes with much curiosity—particularly the old -women—and the designs on our buttons. The remarkable and unremitting -espionage of the Japanese is everywhere shown. Should you give some -peasant a button, even while apparently out of sight of any one, it -will be most singular, if one of the officers does not return it to you -before or after you are on shipboard again. At first our steps were -dogged by the police wherever we went. This did not require much effort -in the town, but when we struck into the country and climbed hills with -thick and sharp undergrowth, these officers not being as well habited -as ourselves to withstand brier and thorn, their scratched legs -usually paid the penalty. Besides this, their lazy habits had made them -very indifferent pedestrians. In a walk of any length they generally -broke down; they would rub their legs and beg us to return, but as we -were not aware of having solicited the pleasure of their company, we -declined compliance with their requests. The commodore complained to -the acting chief magistrate, Kimakawa Kahei, of this practice of spying -upon the movements of his officers, and said, that if it were not -stopped, he should recommend them each to take a stick with them, and -stop it. They contended, that it was a precaution for our protection, -the people not yet being accustomed to the sight of us. They were -answered, that we felt ourselves quite competent for our own protection. - -After this, these gentry, if they attempted to follow, were driven back -at once, and if they spied upon our movements at all, it was at such -a distance, that their presence was not perceived by us. In a short -time, the officers moved as freely in the area of country granted by -the treaty—a radius of about sixteen English miles, as if they were -in the United States. The chief objects of interest ashore to visit, -are the Sintoo, Buddhist temples, and some smaller ones, dedicated to -the tutelar deities of the soldiers, and the marines. The Japanese -display great rural taste always in their locations, selecting the most -picturesque, and at times, the most elevated spots for their erection. -Attached to these temples are usually _kungwas_, or places, where the -weary traveller may rest for the night, and get some tea and eatables -from the attendant priests. A Sintoo temple just at the end of the -principal street from the landing at Simoda, was the chief place for -the holding of official interviews, and subsequently for bazars. It -stood in the midst of a cemetery overhung by large trees, and steep -boulders of granite. The spacious and level yard in front, was divided -with stone crossings smoothly cut, and in it stood alone, a tower of -cyclopean masonry, in which was hung one of their sweet-toned bells. -Their manner of striking, which is by a piece of green wood swung -horizontally on the outside of the bell, gives a delightful softness to -the sound, while the proximity to the earth increases the distance at -which it may be heard. The carving and frieze work about the columns -at the entrance to this temple are as elaborate and fantastic as can -be imagined, while the little hydras and animal images perched upon -the eaves and roof, are as numerous as on a Chinese Joss house. The -interior is very plain, and the Sintooist worships no idol. Living -here was a priest named Dosangee—his head entirely shorn. He was -quite polite to us, and in return used to expect us to give him the -pronunciation of some words in English, which he was endeavoring to -learn by the aid of an English and Dutch dictionary, which he had. He -accompanied me through the temple. - -In one part of the temple, the commodore, from the initials “M. C. P.” -on some boxes there seen, seemed to have had a room set apart. The -altar, in the place of worship was very plain, and had incense burning -on it. Its only ornaments consisted of bronze castings representing -their sacred crane on the back of a tortoise, and a small gilded -elephant. There, of course, was the invariable accompaniment of Sintoo -worship—a small mirror—an emblem of the soul’s perfect purity; or, -according to some, as plainly as the votary sees his own features in -that mirror, so plainly do the mediatory spirits to whom he prays, -see his spiritual and temporal wants. Such a style of worship would -scarcely answer for the belles of our land. As the devotee enters one -of these temples he first drops a few “cash” (about the fifteenth of a -cent) into a carefully-secured box at the door, then by shaking a lot -of sleigh-looking bells hanging from a beam, attracts to his prayers -the attention of his mediatory spirits, who only number some three -thousand—these are the _kami_, confreres of the spiritual emperor or -mikado, and analogous to the saints of the catholics. - -The Sintoo mythology also comprehends a god of war. On entering the -grounds where one of these temples were located, we passed through -a military barrack, where were a number of small stallions tethered -from either cheek, wrong end foremost in their stalls, who grew quite -indignant in their cavortings at our presence. On our approach they -turned out their guard—three or four stupid-looking soldiers, with -tin-basin looking hats, and the calves of their legs swathed in blue -cotton cloth, upholding the insignia of rank of their chief, which were -cruciform lances in coverings of shark-skin. In the building, we saw -on the walls, offerings of swords and bows, from those who had deemed -themselves miraculously preserved in battle. - -In the Mariners’ temple we saw suspended from boards on the walls small -_queues_ of the Japanese seamen, who had undergone the imminent peril -of shipwreck, together with details of the particular storm, pictures -of foundering junks, and the names of those who escaped. The parting -with this little pig-tail of hair, the Japanese sailor thinks is one of -the greatest sacrifices that he can make to his patron divinity. The -approach to this place was over a fine balustraded bridge, and under -a noble well-planted avenue of the yew-pine tree. Another _yasiro_, -on a mountain-side, is reached by a direct and continuous flight of -over a hundred steps. Over at _Kakisaki_, in one of the temples, is an -allegorical painting of some size, the subject of which is very nearly -an embodiment of “Pilgrim’s Progress,” and the hero is as defiant as -Saint George with the Dragon. The plan of the picture is a birds’-eye -view. A horrid ogre or devil dwells deep in a cavernous recess or hell, -and his daily food is women, many of whom are confined in the gloomy -precincts of his prison. A young prince prays for power to rescue them, -which is granted, and he is provided with a potent potion. Disguised -as a pedlar he crosses dangerous chasms and descends steep cliffs; at -last, arriving at the door of the devil’s abode, he gains admittance, -and gives the devil the potion, which he drinks and becomes drunk, -when the young champion despatches him, and sets at liberty all the -unfortunate victims that he has there confined. - -This explanation is from memory, and may not be entirely correct. - -At the first-named temple, a party of our officers, who taking a long -tramp on a hunt, during the day, did not get back until a late hour of -the night, desired to lay on the mats in the _kunqwa_ until morning, -and threw themselves down. The Japanese strongly objected to this, and -insisted upon their going off to their ships. This, on account of the -lateness of the hour, they declined doing. The officials went off and -came back with a lot of soldiers and a number of lanterns, and were -finally guilty of the rudeness of pulling them by the feet. At this, -our officers kicked over their lanterns, and cocked and capped their -pieces, when the valiant assailants vanished at once. Tatsnoske, one -of the chief officers of the place, at four o’clock in the morning, -then went off to the flag-ship, had the commodore woke up, and desired -him to order these officers off to the ship. The commodore refused to -do any such thing; and the next morning sent the same officers and a -captain of marines to demand an apology for their conduct from Karakaha -Kahai, which was given without delay. - -There being no treaty of commerce with the Japanese, preparatory to -such a result hereafter, a number of our coins had been delivered to -them before leaving the bay of Yedo, that they, might be assayed at the -capital, and the relative value, with their own, established. In the -meantime, it was no doubt intended, or thought on our side, that as -the people in the stores were willing to sell, and our officers were -continually offering to purchase little curiosities and other articles -of their handicraft that were to be found in their shops, that in this -way, things would find their level, and an impromptu trade, as it were, -spring up. This notion proved a mistaken one; things were purchased, -but they were paid for in silver dollars at the rate of twelve hundred -cash each, and not directly to the seller, but through a government -officer called _gayoshio_. - -In strolling the streets of Simoda you see old crones, arranging, in -the open air, their warp for weaving. The personal pulchritude of the -cadaverous-complexioned Japanese women, is not much under the best -circumstances, but when it is remembered that on marrying, they shave -off their eyebrows, and blacken their teeth with some iron rust and -acid, as a badge of the marital state, their appearance becomes most -repulsive. The younger women, with their elaborate arrangement of -hair, who have not yet undergone this process of disfigurement, though -rather ungainly in gait, owing to the use of clogs, and wearing about -the hips an awkward compressing scarf, are quite good-looking and with -lighter complexions, have also much better-shaped eyes than the Chinese. - -The only wheeled vehicle you may see is a rude hand-cart, the wheels -without tires. Should you meet a man on the back of an ox bringing to -town bundles of wood, the sight of your barbarian garments are very -apt to incense him greatly; and the rider, disturbed by his movements -dismounts, takes him by the tether, and leads him aside. - -The fronts of the shops are closed with sliding screens of paper, -oiled to admit the light, and the floors raised about two feet from -the ground are covered with mat-cushions, upon which, _a-la-Turk_, -sits the shopkeeper, who has left his straw sandals at the door. You -would scarcely be expected to remove your boots at every shopdoor -you entered, but if you stepped up on the platform the shopkeeper -would intimate that your leather shoon would mar the whiteness of -his mats. The plan of purchase was mostly pantomimic. Pointing to -the article, you ask, “How mutchee?” The shopkeeper repeating your -“how mutchee?” as he makes a mental calculation, proceeds to hold up -the fingers of one or both hands before you, each finger being one -hundred cash—estimating twelve hundred to the dollar. The purchase -completed, you do not pay the seller, but the articles with your name, -and his mark are sent to the government officer, _gayoshio_, when the -imperial paw is placed upon the specie you pay, and the seller is apt -to get the amount in copper coin. By an arbitrary decision they made -their itzeboo—a square piece of silver with the government stamp, -equal to a Spanish dollar—and as they could take this dollar and coin -nearly three itzeboos from it, it became a very good operation for the -imperial treasury, at no time suffering from over-filled coffers. - -The religion of the Japanese enjoins cleanliness of person upon its -votaries, but can scarcely divert the repulsive and indecent manner in -which it is obtained. At the bath-houses in Simoda the sexes of all -ages bathe indiscriminately together. - -The Japanese in their intercourse with us, were always pertinacious in -assuring us, that they were not Chinese; indeed they would have been -very indignant to be thought of a kindred race. They did not take long -to find out, that we were not Dutch. They would mention derisively -the fact of the length of intercourse the Chinese had had with other -countries, and yet, that they had never built square-rigged vessels -like ours; they intimated more enterprise than this for themselves. -After the signing of the treaty with us the imperial edict preventing -the building of their vessels, without open sterns, was repealed. The -larger junks usually laid in the bay of _Sirahama_, further northward: -those who came to Simoda, ran in to make a harbor, when the weather -became threatening, or were engaged in bringing copper ore, from some -neighboring province, and carrying back charcoal and wood. - -The Macedonian, after a little over two weeks absence, returned from -the Bonin islands, bringing the intelligence, that the man, that we had -previously left at Port Lloyd, had decamped from there on some whaler, -after regaling himself on Uncle Sam’s bullocks. We hailed her approach -with much gratification, as she brought sixty large sea-turtles—a -perfect God-send—an oasis in the desert of salt junk. “Soup! soup!” -resounded in the messes, louder than the “Beef! beef!” in the American -camp, that invoked the thunders of Henry. - -The Lexington was sent to Loo-Choo to look after things till the -return of the other ships; carrying out the recommendation contained -in the introduction to the work of Golownin: “Provided judicious means -shall be used and a foundation laid by a progressive acquaintance -through Loo-Choo.” The Macedonian, Vandalia, and Southampton, were -despatched to Hakodade, or as it was then spelt on Russian authority, -Chackodade, in the island of Yeso. A poor fellow, killed by falling -from the topsail yard of the Powhatan, was buried without difficulty or -objection in the ground of a temple, back of Kakizaki. - -On a fine sunshiny morning, in the latter part of April, I had landed, -according to previous appointment, to take a botanical tramp into the -country with the author of the “Middle Kingdom,” and with a gentleman -from South Carolina, our botanist. I reached the shore before them, -and, a number of the villagers around, stood on the glistening white -beach between Simoda and the fishing village of Kakizaki, watching the -lazy swell as it came in a roll against Centre Sima, or broke with a -low splash through its Gothic cavern, when I was approached by two -young Japanese, whose dress and address told, that they were gentlemen -in their land. They wore the rich brocade breeches; the handles of -their short and long swords were decorated with amulets, and the light -blue oval on the summit of their fresh shaven polls, shone far smoother -than “a stubble land at harvest home.” After the characteristic bended -and knee-pressing salutation, accompanied with the aspirated “Eh!” -which only a Japanese can do exactly, which I jocularly replied to with -“Abeyo!” they came quite close to me. Pointing to our different ships -in the harbor, they attempted to pronounce their names, but as they -scarcely succeeded, either in their sequence or their articulation, -particularly of Mississippi and Powhatan, I did it for them, and at -their request wrote all of their names down, with one of their camel’s -hair pencils. This done, they affected to examine with some interest -the chain attached to my “tokay,” or watch, and at the same time -slipped into the bosom of my vest an enveloped letter, which noticing, -I immediately attempted to withdraw, when they gently restrained my -hand, cast an anxious glance around, and gave a most imploring look -for secrecy. A moment’s thought, and I was willing to indulge them in -this, believing the document to have some reference to a matter which -had been mooted by the younger officers of the squadron, of which I -was one. Just after this, a couple of the resident officers came up -from the direction of Simoda, whose approach was the signal for the -scattering of the villagers, who are not permitted to stand and gaze -on a stranger. Between them and my incognito epistolary friends, -salutations were formally interchanged, when both parties moved off -in opposite directions. The examining look which accompanied these -otherwise very ordinary politenesses, on the part of those from Simoda, -caused the idea to pass through my mind that the others were from -another province. - -By this time, my friends from the flag-ship having joined me, we struck -into the country to the southward, to take what in the “pigeon” dialect -of the Chinaman, is called a “look see” at the botany of Japan, which -those who have more of this pleasant information than myself, represent -as being of much interest. - -Our path led through a very broken yet well-wooded and cultivated -country. We entered a small building used as a schoolhouse, and also -as a place of worship. In a room was a colossal figure of some female -deity in a sitting posture, which, not being a Buddhist representation, -must have been intended for a likeness of _Ten-sio-dai-zin_, the -especial deity of Japan. Officers who had seen it before us, looked -upon it as a fine specimen of their casting in bronze, but we found -it on examination to be of wood, painted in imitation. We had an -opportunity of seeing the little dwarfed trees which they are so -skilful in preserving; and in front of many of the houses, different -trees trained in the form of animals, with sea-shells to represent -the eyes. The cultivation, which is very close and clean, was mostly -in terraces and between hills. Occasionally we reached a level field, -which was being ploughed. This is done with a small plough, with a -single hand and beam, the share being like an iron scoop, not of much -diameter. It is drawn by an ox in traces, and with wooden saddle, -while a small boy leads him with a stick attached to a ring in the -nose, and a man holds the handle of the diminutive earth-scratcher. -Little pathway streams are turned to use by being made to fall into -wooden troughs on the end of balanced wooden levers, which filling and -precipitating at intervals, with a weight on the opposite end of the -beam, are made to pound rice in mortars. We encountered any number of -wayside shrines, mostly made by placing small stone images in little -coves: occasionally a short flight of steps led up to one. At these the -wayfarer prays. - -About two o’clock in the day we came upon a large urban Buddhist -temple. The grounds around were quite extensive and well cultivated. -You entered them under a number of steep-roofed gateways, guarded by a -number of little stone-lieutenants to Buddha, who seemed to be armed -with besoms to sweep away evil spirits when they should visit the -premises at the pale glimpses of the moon. The building was larger than -any I had seen in Simoda. The interior being unsealed overhead, you -could look up through rough hewn timbers to the thatching of the roof. -The floors, brightly polished, were covered with a white dust, as if -the building was neighbor to a flour-mill. The grain of the wood of the -large unpolished columns around the altar, was very beautiful. Buddhas -in any number were around the room. Black barrel-shaped “tom-toms” were -in the middle of the floor, the beating on which, by the shiny-headed -priests, is intended to attract the attention of their divinities to -their worship, as a daguerreotypist in taking your picture first tells -you, “Now it commences.” On one side of the main entrance there was a -native inscription: “The laws are ever revolving;” on the other, “The -period of Buddha is near: remember it.” To the beams inside were pasted -a number of strips of white paper, which when blank are called _gohir_, -and intended as emblems of purity; and when written upon, according -to some, are inscribed with moral and religious sentences. Those that -I noticed were covered with Japanese characters, which I was told -were the names of those buried in an adjoining cemetery, for whom -mass had been performed. In the cemetery near by were a great number -of tombs—little square stone columns very close together, because -their dead were buried in a sitting posture. On all of these you saw -a compound character, meaning “Returned to vacuity,” and underneath -the inscription told that Leu-tah-churo, or somebody else, had gone to -nothingness, in such a year of the reign of _Tairi_. - -Eight lascivious-looking priests resided at the temple, having the -receipts from the _kunqua_ attached, as a part of their revenue. - -The hour of the day having arrived, when that tocsin of man’s soul, the -dinner-bell, would have been heard, if at home, we seated ourselves on -the front steps of the temple to partake of a little “chow-chow.” While -thus engaged the incidents of the morning came to my recollection, and -I handed over my epistle “_extraordinaire_,” which I had gotten from -the two Japanese, to my friend our interpreter, to get an inkling of -what it was all about, at the same time giving him my surmises as to -its contents. It was of much more import; he thought the commodore -should see it, promising to return it to me. As there were a number -around us, no doubt indulging in the Japanese espionage, I only got at -the time, the superscription, which was: “A secret communication, for -the American men-of-war ships, to go up higher.” - -On leaving this place we clambered to the summit of high, bleak hills, -with a very white volcanic formation, at the top, so bright that at -a distance it might well have been taken for snow. The ascent was -anything but agreeable, as we were impeded by thick bushes, brier and -bramble. Two Japanese who attempted to play pilot, fared worst, but -upon getting up some distance had the “sava” to see that going ahead -were as well as going back. We rested at an abandoned quarry on the -summit, and from here had a fine view of the surrounding country. My -companions having filled the leaves of an old census-book with little -botanical specimens, comprising rare little plants and cosy little wild -flowers of every hue, together with what they thought were some new -specimens of the fern family, we descended into a pretty little valley -waving in wheat, and at sundown were at Simoda. - -That night the officer of the mid-watch of the Mississippi heard the -words “American! American!” pronounced in a low tone from the top -of the gangway-ladder, and immediately two young Japanese descended -to the deck. They made signs to him of great fatigue, held up their -tender though blistered hands, and desired to cast off their boat from -the ship, which they were not permitted to do. An attempt was made to -comprehend them by means of a Chinese servant, who was awoke for the -purpose, but the domestic celestial insisted that they had “rice for -sale.” The commander of the Mississippi directed them to be put on -board of the flag-ship. Here it was ascertained they were from Yedo; -that they were desirous of coming to our country, and that, unable -to effect that object or have communication with us when we lay off -Yokohama, they had followed us, at much risk, in an open boat, from -the bay of Yedo to our anchorage at Simoda. Their plan was, after -getting on board of us, to permit their boat to go adrift, allowing -their swords to remain in her, which family relics the Japanese regard -as very heir-looms, not to be parted with but in the last extremity, -and by this means to produce the belief that their owners had been -drowned when the boat should be picked up. Fearing there might be some -deception in the matter, perhaps a ruse to see in what faith we were -prepared to observe their laws, which we were aware prohibited any -of their people from leaving Japan for a foreign country, they were -ordered to be put ashore in a ship’s boat at a point where they would -not be liable to observation, which was done, the hour being nearly -two in the morning. On reaching the beach they soon disappeared in the -woods. - -A few days afterward, some of our officers in their strolls ashore, -ascertained that there were two Japanese confined in a cage at a little -barrack back of the town, and on going there they were found to be the -persons who had paid the midnight visit to our ships, and they also -proved to be my unfortunate friends of the letter. They did not appear -greatly down-cast by their situation, and one of them wrote in his -native character on a piece of board, and passed through the bars of -his cage, to one of our surgeons present, what follows:— - - When a hero fails in his purpose, his acts are then regarded as those - of a villain and robber. In public have we been seized and pinioned, - and darkly imprisoned for many days; the village elders and headmen - treat us disdainfully, their oppressions being grievous indeed; - therefore looking up while yet we have nothing wherewith to reproach - ourselves, it must now be seen whether a hero will prove himself to be - one indeed. - - Regarding the liberty of going through the sixty states (of Japan) as - not enough for our desires, we wished to make the circuit of the five - great continents; this was our heart’s wish for a long time. Suddenly - our plans are defeated, and we find ourselves in a half-sized house, - where eating, resting, sitting, and sleeping, are difficult, nor can - we find our exit from this place. Weeping we seem as fools, laughing - as rogues—alas! for us, silent we can only be. - - ISAGI KÓÓDA, - KWANSUCHI MANJI. - -The commodore, it is said, did not hear of their capture and -confinement, until the next morning, when he sent some officers ashore -to see what might be done in the way of intercession, but on reaching -the barrack, it was found that they had that morning been sent to the -city of Yedo, and as the attendant at the place made sign, for the -purpose of being beheaded. - -The following is the translation of the letter, which the unfortunate -aspirants, for a sight of the great world, beyond their hermetic -empire, placed in the breast of my vest, the neat and sharply-defined -characters of whose original, as it lies before me, would assure even -one, who did not comprehend their language, that it had been pencilled -by men of intelligence and taste. - - Two scholars of Yedo, in Japan, named Isagi Kóóda and Kwansuchi Manji, - present this letter to the high officers or others who manage affairs. - That which we have received is meager and trifling, as are our persons - insignificant, so that we are ashamed to come before distinguished - personages. We are ignorant of arms and their uses in battle, nor - do we know the rules of strategy and discipline. We have in short, - uselessly whiled away our months and years, and know nothing. We heard - a little of the customs and knowledge of the Europeans and Americans, - and have desired to travel about in the five great continents, but the - maritime prohibitions of our country are exceeding strict, so that for - the foreigners to enter the “inner land” or for natives to go to other - countries, are alike among the immutable regulations. Therefore our - desire to travel has been checked, and could only go to and fro in our - breasts, unable to find utterance, and our feet so hampered that we - could not stir. - - This had been the case many years, when happily the arrival of so many - of your ships anchoring in our waters, now for several days, and our - careful and repeated observation of the kind and humane conduct of - your officers, and their love for others, has revived the cherished - desire of years, which now struggles for its exit. We have decided on - a plan, which is, very privately to take us aboard of your ships and - carry us to sea, that we may travel over the five continents, even if, - by so doing, we disregard our laws. We hope you will not regard our - humble request with disdain, but rather enable us to carry it out. - Whatever we are able to do to serve, will be considered as an order so - soon as we hear it. - - When a lame man sees another walking, or a pedestrian sees another - riding, would he not be glad to be in his place? How much more to us, - who, for our whole lives, could not go beyond 30° E. and W., or 25° N. - to S., when we behold you come riding on the high wind, and careering - over the vast waves, with lightning speed coasting along the five - continents, does it appear as if the lame had a way to walk, or the - walker an opportunity to ride! - - We hope you who manage affairs will condescend to grant and regard - our request, for as the restrictions of our country are not yet - removed, if this matter becomes known, we shall have no place to flee, - and doubtless will suffer the extremest penalty, which result would - greatly grieve your kind and benevolent hearts toward your fellow-men. - - We trust to have our request granted, and also that you will secrete - us until you sail, so as to avoid all risk of endangering life. When - we return here at a future day, we are sure that what has passed will - not be very closely investigated. Though rude and unpractised in - speech, our desires are earnest, and we hope you will regard us in - compassion, nor doubt or oppose our request. April 11th. - -An additional note enclosed, was:— - - The enclosed letter contains the earnest request we have had for many - days, and which we tried in many ways to get off to you at Yokohama, - in a fishing boat by night, but the cruisers were too thick, and - none others were allowed to come alongside, so that we were in great - uncertainty what to do. Learning that the ships were coming here, we - have come to wait, intending to seize a punt and come off, but have - not succeeded. Trusting that your honors will consent, after people - are quiet to morrow night, we will be at Kakizaki in a punt, at a - place where there are no houses, near the beach. There we greatly - desire you to come and meet us, and thereby carry out our hopes to - their fruition. April 25th. - -The Japanese smaller ordnance is quite defective, some of their pieces -loading at the breech, by unscrewing. Many of their gentlemen, among -their other accomplishments, study the military art. To this number, -and their artillery officers, our handsome small pieces,—Lieutenant -Dalgren’s twelve-pounder brass howitzers—without a superfluous ounce -of metal, and probably as admirable guns as are to be found in use -among any nation—were always objects of great interest. The Japanese -were presented with one of these howitzers before we left the bay of -Yedo, but none of the lock-wafers, or boxes of canister, or other fixed -ammunition for them, were given, nor any instruction as to the manner -in which they were made. - -The following is a translation of a letter from a military man from -Yedo, who, for the single object of collecting information, had been -following the squadron, in the hope of meeting one of our officers. He -was a gentleman of some rank, and had influence with several men in -authority at Simoda, who visited him and never prevented his coming -aboard. The letter was written in Dutch, and as a specimen of progress -of military science in Japan, and search for other information, is not -uninteresting. - - -A GREAT SECRET. - - The law in Japan will not allow us to speak or to write with people - of another country. Yesterday, on my return from the ship, I found - that out, and it was not pleasant—Now you’ll be on shore to day, with - friendship; I can not control (check) my desire to speak in writing, - and shall follow up the prompting of my soul. - - At an early age I commenced studying the European and Chinese art of - war with the aid of my teachers at Yedo; the European is certainly - superior to the Chinese mode of warfare, I think and know more of it. - On the arrival of the American ships off Uraga, Kanagawa, Yokahama, - and Simoda, I went to and fro to those places, and on board of the - ships at every opportunity, I saw there several instruments and - machines, but don’t know enough about it. I could not speak with the - Americans for the persons who visit the ships in business, would not - allow it. - - Where is the island Borin,[2] and who lives there? Tell me, if you - please, the names of some great countries. - - [2] Probably Bonin island, known to the Japanese as Moninsoma. - - What are _Kanaka Wich_, to what country do they belong?[3] - - [3] Probably Kanaka, Sandwich island, he alludes to. - - What are the implements at the disposal of an officer, who commands - ten thousand soldiers in the field? - - What are the advantages of the steam-gun? - - Give me a recipe to make percussion-caps. - - In a Dutch book on military art I found, that for a newly-invented - gun or _musket_ the percussion-caps are attached to the cartridge by - a thread. Why don’t the Americans have such muskets, haven’t they yet - discovered how? - - Why do people from other countries live in Loo-Choo? - - Simoda on the horizon from the north pole in what degree? And in what - degree to the east from London? a few days ago the masters of the - Mississippi have been measuring, they must know. - - If you will be kind enough to give me the information, what is the - most useful and latest invention in America for military men. I shall - be obliged to you and be always ready to oblige you in return. - - It will worry your mind to read my letter and I find expressions for - what my soul suggests. - - B. N. M., or (X.) - - I hope you will answer my letter, I go on board of the ships in the - boats that take the water. I can not go on any other boat, and am - always in the hope that the boat will be sent to the ship where you - are. - - I shall go to Yedo and be back in Simoda on the return of the ships - from Hakodade, and hope to see you then in good health. - - Query. The great Mexico empire, which belongs to the powerful United - States, where is that situated? - - The authorities have notified me, that I was not allowed to receive - Americans at the house and converse with them. - - I therefore write this letter and shall be on board your ship - to-morrow and speak with you. - -The following day he was on board, according to promise, in the suite -of some Japanese officers. There was no opportunity to answer his -questions that day, and on the return of the ships from Hakodade he did -not make his appearance, retained by _illness_ or otherwise at Yedo, -that is all. The officers heard from him, but never saw him again after -that day, and his questions remained unanswered. “Give me a recipe to -make percussion-caps.” - -We noticed the number of matchlocks, that the Japanese were armed -with, when we landed first in Japan—at Gorihama. The Dutch writers -say, that they are aware of the superiority of the musket, but that a -deficiency of flints in the geological formation of their country, and -their determined aversion to dependence upon foreigners for anything -essential to their military equipment, prevents their adoption. Their -curiosity about the mode of making percussion-caps, and the “wafers” -for the howitzers, was very great at all times. - -It was well enough with the Japanese, as long as they remained -secluded, but when the visit of the American ships gave their military -men an opportunity of seeing what great improvements had been made in - - “——— the mortal engines, - Whose rude throats, Jove’s dread clamors conterfeit,” - -the contrast showed them the defectiveness of their defences, and with -an enterprise far ahead of their Cathayan neighbors, they at once -proceeded to cudgel their brains to see how their security might be -made greater. They at first thought of fortifying Simoda, but being -told that it could never become a great commercial place, they gave -that up. Izabavo, one of their most prominent engineers, was told to -make a report as to the fortification of Uraga, because with more -sagacity than that displayed by the Americans, they know its importance -with reference to their capital. Yedo is the London—the Paris of -Japan. When it falls, the empire goes with it. They know that the -supplies for this enormous place are gotten coastwise by the junks, who -come into the bay, and that the blockading of Uraga in the bay of Yedo, -easily reached, would stop the throat of the Japanese empire. - -Izabavo reported, that, as no two fortifications could protect Uraga, -and that the width and roughness of the bay at times, and the depth -of water, would make floating batteries impracticable, a gunboat -system, such as was once adopted by our own government, must be their -defence. These matters were discussed by the imperial council, as also -the reorganization of their army on the European plan, that is the -having a standing army, that would obey promptly, the behests of the -centralized government at Yedo, and quiet any refractory sentiment -of their thousands, like the _coup d’etat_ of the 2d of December -by Napoleon III., instead of each of the princes of the empire -contributing a quota of troops, as now. - -We had now lain nearly a month at Simoda, seeing more of Japan than -during the two months we lay in the bay of Yedo. We had enjoyed the -walks ashore, we had enjoyed baths from a fine spring, and picknicked -in the woods of Sarahama. But we had missed Foogee Yama, which at all -other points we thought ubiquitous. I had climbed the high hills back -of Kakizaki, to get another look at the mountain, but other and higher -hills more distant, obstructed the view. - -_Foogee Yama_ since our arrival in the waters of Japan, as the Howadjis -on the Nile tell of the great pyramid, seemed to follow us wherever we -went. When the cold clear morning of February found us running into -the bay of Kawatsoo, we saw over our bowsprit Foogee, looming up in -austere magnificence. When our colors were hauled down in the evening -at Yokohama, every one admired the majestic beauty of Foogee peering -like a ponderous pile of marble out of the furnace of sunset. If the -rains fell heavily during the night, when the curtain of cloud lifted -up in the morning, in patches here and there, Foogee appeared to -wear under its mantle of chilling cold, a garment of genial green; and -when the Mississippi lay at Webster island, from her hurricane-deck, -above the line of pines that covered the bold bluffs of the shore, -sometimes near, sometimes afar off, its summit clothed in fleecy clouds -of deferential beauty, grandly shone the towering mound; so now, -land-locked and our view shut in by the high hills around Simoda, we -missed Foogee Yama. - -[Illustration: _LITH. OF SARONY & Co. NEW YORK._ - FOOGEE YAMA.] - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - -On the 13th of May, the fifty days after the signing of the treaty -having nearly expired, the Powhatan and Mississippi started for -Hakodadi, leaving the storeship Supply at anchor at Simoda. Instead -of keeping in shore, the two steamers stood off and ran between _Oho -Sima_ and _Ja Sima_. The day being clear, _Foogee_ from his aerial -height was soon looking at us. We ran quite close to the southwestern -side, and had a good view of Oho Sima. The whole island appears to -have been upheaved by volcanic action from the sea. From the jaws -of a basin-shaped crater, issued white smoke and ashes. The side of -the mountain next to us was marked by large fissures, or streaked -with streams of lava. The vegetation on many of the slopes presented -a pretty picture, when contrasted with the dull-charred mass that -encompassed it. There are said to be three towns on the place. We saw -two quite plainly, but where their harbor is, or how the steep shores -are approached in rough weather, it was difficult to perceive. - -After rounding Oho Sima, we stood into the land, and during the day -ran in full sight of the shores of Niphon, running northward from the -entrance of the bay of Yedo. The fields of barley, just assuming its -yellow dress, were spread out as far as the vision extended inland. -Both ships stopped at intervals to make soundings. At one time, when we -had stopped for this purpose, and got bottom, at twenty-eight fathoms, -on what is called an “over-fall,” the opposition of current and wind -made a “chow-chow” sea, which swashed over our rail, while the fine -buoyant sea-boats of Japanese fishermen around, danced dryly like ducks. - -This day, I think it was, marked what may be considered a new item -in the history of typography. We had on board one of the little -engines, which from the days of Faustus have evolved more power, than -the ponderous ones, that revolved our paddles, and by its aid, in a -sea-way, an intelligent midshipman, familiar with the art preservative -of arts, “wet sheets,” and printer’s ink, caused to be struck off -copies of the commodore’s correspondence with the Japanese, and of the -surveys of Lieutenant Maury. That little press deserves a place in the -patent-office, near the one, from which came “Poor Richard’s Almanack.” - -After a run of three days, standing in for the shore during the day, -and off during the night, making soundings at intervals, seeing an -occasional school of whales, and our daily observations and reckonings -showing a strong current in our favor, going to prove—what has been -advanced by many—the existence of a continuous current on the coast -of Japan, similar in character and direction to the Gulf stream on -our coast, we made the entrance to the straits of Sangar. The land -on either side was quite notable. That on the northern or island of -Yeso side, bold and sharply defined, while a singular conformation -on the Niphon or southern side, looked exactly the profile of the -Leviathans that frequent the waters in its vicinity—“wery like a -whale.” On entering we found a strong eastwardly tide running through -and against us. By sundown we had run some distance in, under the high -shores of the northern side, when it came on thick, and the heads of -both steamers were put outward. We had made during the day a point -of longitude further to the east than any, that we had reached since -leaving the United States. Soundings were made every fifteen minutes -during the night, and daylight found us enveloped in one of the dense -fogs, from which the Japanese empire in this section, according to -Golownin, is seldom free during the entire year. Both ships had to -announce their proximity for some hours, to one another, by the use -of their steam-whistles and the striking of their bells. When the fog -lifted on the morning of the 17th, we found that the tidal current -during the night, had set us in, rather than out, and holding on -westwardly for a short time, we discovered over a low peninsula nearly -ahead, described by the Russian captain Ricord, in his voyages for the -liberation of Golownin, the Macedonian, Vandalia, and Southampton, -at anchor inside of the harbor of Hakodadi. We soon rounded a high -promontory, and stood into a magnificent bay. The distance we had -run from Simoda was six hundred and nine miles. About 11 o’clock we -anchored within gun-shot of the town; it may be near the spot, where -forty-one years before lay the imperial Russian brig Diana, to procure -the release from an imprisonment in stockade cages of three years, of -her former commander and his companions, by the Japanese—after three -voyages, in which she was successful. - -The temperature, on our arrival, we found very materially different -from what we had left at Simoda; the difference of latitude is about -seven degrees. The snow still lay on the mountains around, and the air -made thick boots and an overcoat comfortable. - -The bay of Hakodadi is most spacious and majestic in its sweep, and -for facility of entrance and security of anchorage, it can scarcely -be surpassed by any other in the world. The width at its mouth is so -great that no two fortifications could command or protect it, yet the -curvature of the high land around is such as to afford the greatest -shelter. For all the uses of Americans it is worth fifty Simodas; here -our enterprising whalers, after being buffeted about in the rude -seas of Ochotsk and Japan in its vicinity, may ere long repair to -recruit and refit, and procure supplies of wood and water, instead of -being compelled as hitherto, to make the long stretch to the Sandwich -Islands. Besides this, a line drawn on the arc of a great circle from -California to North China, passes through the straits of Sangar and by -Hakodadi; and here, and not at Simoda, which has been mentioned as a -depot, would coal have to be placed for the use of steamers between San -Francisco and Shanghae. - -It was agreed by all the old Mediterranean cruisers aboard, as we -dropped anchor, that the view around was the counterpart of Gibraltar -and its vicinity. The northern side from where we lay was the main land -of Spain; the low sandy peninsula, over which we could easily see the -water of Sangar, was the “neutral ground,” encircling Smugglers’ bay; -on our left hand lay a small fishing-village, which corresponded to the -Spanish town of Algeciras. The southern part of the hill under which -the town is, was Point Europa; the hill itself, in its high and rugged -isolation, was the frowning rock that enclosed the sulphurous engines, -while in the distance, across the straits, on the north end of Niphon, -now well discerned, or vaguely seen, as the sun shines out or the mists -vary, is the natural prototype of Ape’s hill, in Africa, whose simial -inhabitants are said to find their way most mysteriously across the -Mediterranean. To my eye, the place bore a great resemblance to Cape -Town, Cape of Good Hope, if the mount in the rear were little more -flattened on the summit, while an adjoining hill was the “Lion’s Rump.” - -The city—containing about four thousand houses, in which there is an -average of four persons—is built in a convex form reaching the water’s -edge, and at the base of a very high and abrupt circular hill, called -_Hakodadi Yama_. The most prominent objects are the temples, one of -which is some two hundred feet square, whose red tile roofs reflect -the sun, and suggest the idea of a Portuguese place. The principal -streets are wide, running parallel with the water, rolled with gravel, -and very cleanly kept. Those that intersect them are narrower, and -closed with gateways of wood. From walls at either end of the place, -and entrenchments dug on other sides, it must have been the object -to fortify it. The houses of wood, and with more stories and larger -than those of Simoda, have great projecting eaves. The clap-boards -making the covering of the roof are singularly confined in their -places by a number of cobble-stones: such a place would be hard to -take by street-fighting, for every roof would furnish missiles for the -annoyance of assailants. Every precaution seems to be taken against -fire—brooms and barrels of water surmounting each house and before -every door. At some places they have primitive little fire-engines, -which appear to be stationary. The streets are thronged with the police -who are very numerous, armed with sword, and organized as military, -and any number of miserable-looking curs, called _yenos_, resembling -shouds, or dogs bred between the wolf and the dog; meaner looking than -the _cayotes_ of California. - -Having no previous knowledge of our intended visit, a perfect panic -prevailed among the people of the place on the arrival of our sailing -ships in their bay, which was increased by the arrival of the two -fire-ships. The municipal authorities, it is said, were the first to -leave the place; and the women were sent after them. For several days -long lines of horses, packed with movables, could be seen leaving the -City and winding away over a long sandy plain, like a string of camels -in a desert. - -The cause of all this commotion was afterward found to be a belief -among the inhabitants, that our visit was to bring them to account -for having imprisoned some American seamen who had been shipwrecked -on their coast some years ago. A number of the junks in the harbor -also left, though there were some two hundred at anchor continually -during our stay. It required some time to pacify the people; although -six weeks had elapsed since the signing of the treaty, the authorities -protested that they had heard nothing of it, and consequently nothing -of the intended visit of the squadron. They said they could not -take the responsibility of having any communication with us, except -to furnish wood and water. They represented their position as -embarrassing, and hoped that we would not come ashore until the arrival -of higher officers than themselves. - -In the meantime a survey of the harbor was proceeded in; some very good -wild game was killed on the opposite shore from the town, and our seine -being hauled, yielded nice salmon and quantities of shellfish, which -were most acceptable. - -The second day after our arrival, the commodore—varying from his -usual rule of only seeing the highest officer of a place, who would -have been, in this instance, Prince Matsmai Idzee-no-kami, residing -at the city of Matsmai, not far distant—granted an interview on the -Mississippi, to Matsmai Kageyu, deputy of the prince of Matsmai, or -freely translated, “Prince’s family’s great officer,” and to Yendo -Matazaymon, an officer of Hakodadi. The boats in which they came off -were like others, but were the first and only ones that I saw _rowed_ -in Japan instead of sculled; and this was done by continually revolving -the oar as they pulled. The rowers, who were numerous, were dressed -in long, green gowns, and characters on the shoulders told whom they -served, like the inscription about the neck of the thrall of Cedric the -Saxon. - -These officers said, not being able to divine the cause of our visit, -they had concluded it to be a predatory one; and that the people -possessed of this idea had been leaving the place with their movables, -and that the stampede still continued. - -On delivering to them a letter from the commissioners, however, and -showing them the treaty, their anxiety was at once allayed. When told -that we would not be followed by their police when we came ashore for -a walk, they said very well, but that they thought that our officers -and theirs being seen in friendly intercourse, would have a good effect -with the people, and cause those who had left, to return. They said -they had nothing at Hakodadi to dispose of but fish-oil, dried fish, -and deerskins. The relative value of our currency and theirs, was -settled by weighing our dollar, which was a feather lighter than three -of their little square coins—the kana-its-evoo. The effect of this -rating was to make our dollar equal to 4,800 cash—their _its-evoo_ -being estimated at 1,600 cash. This was scarcely just when it was -recollected that in China our dollar was only taken for 1,200, or at -most, 1,600 cash. - -The wind blowing very fresh, these officers remained on board some -time, when they were entertained in the cabin, and shown over the ship. -When they came off they brought with them a present consisting of dried -fish, placed on a lacquered tray, and a quantity of sweet potatoes -contained in a straw-bag. - -The next day the officers of the squadron visited the shore, landing -at a neat flight of stone steps, which had been set apart by the -authorities for the purpose; no doubt—as things in Japan undergo -slight changes in forty years—the same flight that Golownin descended -from his captivity. Many desirous of getting some of the _curios_ -that the place possessed, indicated a most pressing propensity for -purchase, taking the shopkeepers, of a place generally dull, very much -by surprise. On this day there was exposed at the shop-fronts some of -their swords, an article forbidden to be sold out of the country by -Japanese laws; of the purchase of one or two, by some of our officers, -the authorities subsequently made complaint to the commodore, as well -as of other things not very creditable to our reputation. In doing -so, they said: “In general, when upright, cordial propriety marks -intercourse, then peace, good feeling, and harmony, are real between -the parties; but if harshness, violence, and grasping, characterize -it, then hate and distrust, with collision arise, and love will not be -found to bring the hearts of the people together. This is a rule of -heaven, concerning which, no one can have any doubt.” - -“In general,” the terms of this communication are rather extreme, -but that “cordial propriety” marked the conduct of some of our -officers—conduct which was not at all calculated to make “our name -great among the heathen”—it would be untrue to say. - -On landing I visited the large temple behind and above the town, having -a background of a dense grove of cypress, and very conspicuous from the -water. Its front, as we stepped it off, was eightyseven paces. The -interior exceeded in gilding, and elaborateness of unpainted carving, -anything I had yet seen in Japan. I would have taken it to be a Sintoo -temple, from a female image with an aureola, resembling the images in -catholic churches with the golden halo encircling the head, but in -another corner there was an image of a shaved-head Buddha in wood, -and brilliantly lacquered. Resembling very much some images I saw on -the British war-steamer Rattler, taken at the capture of Rangoon, I -concluded the image must have been brought to this remote point from -India, although religion is a matter upon which all persons visiting -Japan for a limited period as we did, are liable to fall into the -greatest errors. - -There are two accounts of the introduction of Buddhism into Japan; -according to Siebold, in 552, Sching-ming-whang, king of Petsi—a -Corean state, then a dependant and ally of Japan—sent to the court of -the _mikado_, a bronze image of the Sakya Buddha, with flags, books, -&c.; and a letter which said, “This doctrine is the best of any. -It reveals what was a riddle and a mystery even to Kung-foo-tse. It -promises us happiness and retribution, immeasurable and boundless; and -finally makes of us an unsurpassable Buddhi. It is, to use a simile, a -treasure containing all that human heart desires; affording all that -is for our good. And this treasure possesses a twofold value, because -it so completely adapts itself to the nature of our soul. Pray or make -vows according to the disposition of your mind, you will want for -nothing. The doctrine came to us from farther India. The king of Petsi -imparts it to the realm of the _mikado_, in order that it may be there -diffused, and that which is written in the book of Buddha be fulfilled. -My doctrine shall spread toward the East.” - -This temple may have been one dedicated to _Rioboo-Synsu_ -worship—Sintooism blended with Buddhism—and the female image was -that of Tensio-dai-zin. Buddhism is regarded as a kind of safeguard -against expelled and detested Christianity, and the lower order are all -Buddhists. - -The Sintoo and Buddhist priests or bonzes, who constitute the clergy of -Japan, are held in very little repute by the people, and this remote -regard seems to be reciprocated by the clericals. Both classes, so far -as I observed, lounge and gossip in their places of worship, attaching -little or no sanctity to it, except it may be, when immediately engaged -in their devotions. On one occasion I noticed a parcel of devotees in -a temple, with a kind of sack surplice about their shoulders, engaged -in their religious exercises, and while thus employed, some shaven-poll -junior priests were very deliberately sweeping the floor-mats in their -faces, as if giving them a practical illustration of throwing dust in -their eyes. In passing from the front of one altar to another they -invariably dropped the priests’ perquisite of copper cash in the -well-locked boxes. - -The bonzes of the orders of the blind, who may be seen walking the -streets in their gauze gowns and swinging sashes, appear to be in high -favor with the populace. The history of these orders is eminently -Japaneish. The first is called _Bussatz Sato_. Centuries are nothing -in Japanese chronology, and this was instituted many centuries ago, -by one Senmimar, the junior son of a _mikado_, who was a perfect -Japanese Adonis, in commemoration of his having wept himself blind for -the loss of his princess, whose good looks were equal to his own. The -first order had existed for ages, when the second appeared. Yoritomo, -the first _ziogoon_, of whom I have previously spoken, while leading -the _mikado’s_ troops, defeated the rebel prince Feki, who fell, and -his general Kakekigo captured. He was a general of great renown, and -Yoritomo strove to gain his prisoner’s friendship, by loading him with -kindness, and finally offering him his liberty. The captive Kakekigo -replied: “I can love none but my slain master. I owe you gratitude; but -you caused Prince Feki’s death, and never can I look upon you without -wishing to kill you. My best way to avoid such ingratitude, and to -reconcile my conflicting duties, is never to see you more; and thus -do I insure it.” He tore out his eyes, and presented them to Yoritomo -on a salver. The prince, struck with admiration, released him; and in -retirement Kakekigo founded the second order of the blind, called -after his former master, _Feki-sado_. - -The ascent to the _Hakodadi Yama_, a hill rising some fifteen hundred -feet back of the town, I made through fields of black, rich soil, not -yet dry from melting snow, which, a Japanese made sign, had been breast -deep. Wild grape-vines all around were budding out. The view from the -top of this hill was very commanding: across the straits in Niphon, and -on the mountain tops around, you saw “winter lingering,” &c. Below, -long trains of pack-horses loaded with charcoal were continually -traversing the plain; the fishing villages were busy with their seines; -the town showed like a narrow strip of houses, and our ships and the -three hundred junks in the harbor, went but a little way to fill up -the great water space around. Ours were no doubt the first Anglo-Saxon -feet, that ever trod this height. We found a look-out house up there, -where the movement of every ship passing through the straits of Sangar -into the sea of Japan is noted. It was counting the whalers passing -here, and the annual increase of the number bearing the American flag, -that tended to give the Japanese an exalted opinion of the greatness -of our country, though one of the look-outs did not show it in a very -flattering way. He desired the direction of America: I gave it to -him. He then very deliberately drew a large O with the point of his -sword-case on the ground, and said “Nipong;” and then drawing a small -o he said “America;” this was very well when the “Lion played painter,” -but not admiring his geographical scale, I permitted his “Nipong” chart -to remain, and drew one for “America” many times larger, whereat he -took no more interest in the comparison. - -On descending from the Yama, I spied an open gate leading into a -prison-yard enclosed by walls and stockade. The objections by the -attendant and the police to our entrance were strong, as those we -had first experienced in Simoda. They drew their finger across their -throats and held up their right thumb to show the penalty they might -undergo from the chief man, in not hindering our movements. But we had -seen enough of them not to be deterred by any such flimsiness. We knew -that, if we wished to sneeze in their territory, that they would shake -their head, hold up the chief-man finger, and say “Ni! ni!” On one -occasion two companions and myself had approached a small building with -a sliding door, to see whether it did not contain a cage. The officers -attempted to impede our progress, but on our getting close to it, they -looked horrified and shuddered; two of the party, who were smoking, -supposing that it was a powder-magazine, immediately threw away their -cigars. On sliding aside the door, there was visible an old mat in a -small vacant room. We made up our mind, in our movements to do only -what we ourselves would deem proper in our own country, and so went -ahead. - -In the town there are fire-proof magazines, built at intervals by the -government, for the storage of articles, and for the protection of -things during a fire. - -There are no forts in the vicinity of Hakodadi, unless a small -excavated one with two direct embrasures may be so called. This -place was without any garrison; you descended into it by an inclined -plane made with fascines. In its rear was a very well-constructed -magazine made with gabions, and covered with earth-works. The sides -were supported with stockade and fascine. The merlon was sustained by -flanking so clumsy that the range of the deep embrasures was quite -small. Its object must have been to bring ships to, but the reduced -size of the guns as shown by the houses built over them—if there were -any guns underneath—each crack being carefully stopped—would do -little damage. - -Not far from here are some wayside praying machines, and a cemetery in -which several of the poor fellows of the “Vandalia” were interred. On -the occasion of their burial by their messmates, preceded by drum and -fife, the streets were lined on either side by the Japanese police, who -kept every avenue clear. - -The Japanese had a bazar arranged at the place at which we landed, -where a number of purchases were made by the squadron, and the -officials saw more silver dollars than during their whole previous -lifetime. - -There are supposed to be twenty thousand hairy kuriles on the island of -Yeso, though we did not see any of them, there being none in Hakodadi -during our stay. The officers of the Southampton, which vessel was sent -around to Volcano bay to make a reconnoissance, enjoyed the opportunity -of taking a look at the Orsons or Esaus. - -On the last day of May, after we had entertained the Japanese -authorities aboard with the pleasant attitudinizing of “Jim Brown,” and -songs Ethiopan, the Macedonian left for Simoda, taking a look at the -Japanese penal island of Fatisisio on the way, if the weather would -permit, and the Vandalia was sent to Shanghae, China, by the way of -the Japan sea, to relieve the Plymouth, that had been looking after -American interests during the rebel-fights at that place. - -The long-expected functionaries from Yedo did not reach Hakodadi until -the 1st of June. The distance they had to come, including the passage -across the straits, in a direct line, was about four hundred miles, and -yet they had been fifty days in making the journey. The next day after -their arrival it was in contemplation to have a military _function_ -with sailors, music, marines, and artillery ashore, but continued rain -prevented it. - -The Russians, who hitherto had no port on the eastern side of their -empire contiguous to north China, had been compelled to carry on their -teatrade by inland caravans that had been stopped by the insurgent -fights, and who could only send supplies to their posts of Sitka and -Petropaulofski, near the Ochotsk sea, by Cape Horn, had, under Count -Muravieff, boldly seized on the mouth and fine harbor of the river -Amoor, in the Tartar territory, and fortified it. As the position was -weakened by the river emptying into the channel of Tartary, Muravieff, -to make assurance doubly sure, had seized that too. - -Intelligence of these doings having reached Yedo, one of the deputies -at Hakodadi, Hirayama Kenziro, was on his way to Saghalien to find out -whether the Russians were not coming the filibuster Chowstoff on them -again. - -These functionaries made some of their characteristic communications to -the commodore:— - - In the paper, sent his Excellency this morning, it was stated, that we - had received orders from Yedo to go to Karafto; that on the road we - heard, that your ships were at Hakodadi, and as the consultations at - Yokohama were not fully known on these distant frontier places, there - might some misunderstandings arise, and so we came here especially to - see you. If there are any points connected with the treaty, which need - deliberation and settlement, we desire that you will let us know them. - - * * * * * - - With regard to going through the streets and seeing shops and houses - shut, with neither women nor children in their ways, let it be here - observed, that at Yokohama this very matter was plainly spoken of by - Moriyama, the interpreter at that place. The customs of our country - are unlike yours, and the people have been unused to see persons from - foreign lands; though the authorities did what they could to pacify - them, and teach them better, they still were disinclined to believe, - and many absconded or hid themselves. - - If the commodore will recall to mind, the day, when he took a ramble - at Yokohama, in which some of us accompanied him, he will recollect, - that in the villages and houses we hardly saw a woman, during the - whole walk. If he saw more of them at Simoda as he went about, it was - because there the people were gradually accustomed to the Americans, - and their fears had been allayed, so that they felt no dread. - - On these remote frontiers, many hundred miles from Yedo, the usages - of the people are so fixed, that they are not easily influenced and - altered; but pray, how can the inhabitants here think of regarding - the Americans with inimical feelings? Even when they see their - officers, with the sight of whom they are not familiar, they also run - aside, and as if for fear, they seek to escape us. It is the custom - of our country, that officers should accompany visiters about; a - custom not to be so soon changed. Still the disposition of the men - here, is ingenuous, brave, upright, and good; and that of the women - retiring and modest—not gazing at men as if without bashfulness. Such - characteristics and such usages must be considered as estimable, and - we think that you also would not dislike them. - -There is a spring near the town, the water of which is strongly -impregnated with sulphur, and supposed to be highly medicinal; but what -of thy various supplies, O Hakodadi! An egg, like Cæsar’s wife, should -be above suspicion. The number gotten by our mess, like the swords -of the clan of Lochiel, was “a thousand;”—the good ones, were “one.” -Hakodadi, in Japanese, is “box-eating house;” in American memory it is -questionable eggs. - -On the 3d of June, the Powhatan and the Mississippi started on their -return to Simoda: we looked upon the departure from Hakodadi as the -culminating point of the cruise. When we reached the entrance to the -harbor, a sudden and dense fog settled on us— - - “The mist-like banners clasp’d the air, - As clouds with clouds embrace.” - -We ran a little distance, whistling for the want of sight, but at the -fog signal of one gun from the flag-ship, came to anchor. In an hour -the fog lifted like a blanket, and opened like a funnel, when both -steamers, with a stiff wind that enabled them also to make sail, ran -out of the straits. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - - -After a monotonous run of four days, _Foogee_, like a colossal cenotaph -to dead beauty, showed far up before us, and in three hours we were -again at anchor in Simoda harbor. We learned, that the commissioners -of the treaty were there awaiting the return of the commodore; that -Simoda by imperial edict had been declared an imperial city; that -Mimasaka-no-kami, prince of Mimasaka, had been appointed first, and -Tsusuki Suruga-no-kami, prince of Suruga, had been appointed second -governor of the place; also that the last-named, and Takeiro Utsi -Seitaro, imperial financier and member of the board of revenue, had -been added to the number of commissioners. - -Conferences with those functionaries were held in the temple ashore, -and the following articles as additional to those of the treaty of the -31st of March were agreed to:— - - _Additional regulations, agreed to between Commodore Matthew C. - Perry, special envoy to Japan from the United States of America, and - Hayashi Daigaku-no-kami; Ido, Prince of T’sus-sima; Izawa, Prince of - Mimasaki; Tsudzuki, Prince of Suruga; Udono, member of the board of - revenue; Take-no-uchi Sheitaro, and Matsusaki Michitaro, commissioners - of the Emperor of Japan, on behalf of their respective governments._ - - ARTICLE I.—The imperial governors of Simoda will place watch - stations wherever they deem best, to designate the limits of their - jurisdiction; but Americans are at liberty to go through them, - unrestricted, within the limits of seven Japanese ri, or miles; and - those who are found transgressing Japanese laws may be apprehended by - the police and taken on board their ships. - - ARTICLE II.—Three landing places shall be constructed for the boats - of merchant-ships and whale-ships resorting to this port; one at - Simoda, one at Kakizaki, and the third at the brook lying southeast - of Centre Island. The citizens of the United States will, of course, - treat the Japanese officers with proper respect. - - ARTICLE III.—Americans, when on shore, are not allowed access to - military establishments or private houses without leave; but they can - enter shops and visit temples as they please. - - ARTICLE IV.—Two temples, the Rioshen at Simoda, and the Yokushen at - Kakizaki, are assigned as resting-places for persons in their walks, - until public houses and inns are erected for their convenience. - - ARTICLE V.—Near the Temple Yokushen, at Kakizaki, a burial-ground has - been set apart for Americans, where their graves and tombs shall not - be molested. - - ARTICLE VI.—It is stipulated in the treaty of Kanagawa, that coal - will be furnished at Hakodadi; but as it is very difficult for the - Japanese to supply it at that port, Commodore Perry promises to - mention this to his government, in order that the Japanese government - may be relieved from the obligation of making that port a coal depot. - - ARTICLE VII.—It is agreed that henceforth the Chinese language - shall not be employed in official communications between the two - governments, except when there is no Dutch interpreter. - - ARTICLE VIII.—A harbor-master and three skilful pilots have been - appointed for the port of Simoda. - - ARTICLE IX.—Whenever goods are selected in the shops, they shall be - marked with the name of the purchaser and the price agreed upon, and - then be sent to the Goyoshi, or government office, where the money is - to be paid to Japanese officers, and the articles delivered by them. - - ARTICLE X.—The shooting of birds and animals is generally forbidden - in Japan, and this law is therefore to be observed by all Americans. - - ARTICLE XI.—It is hereby agreed that five Japanese ri, or miles, - be the limit allowed to Americans at Hakodadi, and the requirements - contained in Article I. of these regulations, are hereby made also - applicable to that port within that distance. - - ARTICLE XII.—His Majesty the Emperor of Japan is at liberty to - appoint whoever he pleases to receive the ratification of the treaty - of Kanagawa, and give an acknowledgment on his part. - - It is agreed that nothing herein contained shall in any way affect - or modify the stipulations of the treaty of Kanagawa, should that be - found to be contrary to these regulations. - - In witness whereof, copies of these additional regulations have - been signed and sealed in the English and Japanese languages by the - respective parties, and a certified translation in the Dutch language, - and exchanged by the commissioners of the United States and Japan. - - SIMODA, JAPAN, June 17, 1854. - - M. C. PERRY, - _Commander-in-Chief of the U. S. Naval Forces, East India, - China, and Japan Seas, and Special Envoy to Japan_. - -The question of port regulations and pilotage was also mooted and a -paper prepared and agreed to certifying:— - - That Yohatsi, Hikoyemon, and Dshirobe, had been appointed Pilots for - American vessels entering or departing from the port of Simoda, and, - - That the following rates for pilotage had been established by the - proper authorities, viz.:— - - For vessels drawing over eighteen American feet $15 00 - For vessels drawing over thirteen and less than eighteen feet $10 00 - For vessels drawing under thirteen feet $5 00 - - These rates shall be paid in gold or silver coin, or its equivalent in - goods; and the same shall be paid for piloting vessels out, as well as - into port. - - When vessels anchor in the outer roads and do not enter the inner - harbor, only half the above rates of compensation shall be paid to the - pilots. - -As the Japanese in all their interviews, and in their last -stipulations, had manifested a preference for articles of compact to be -in the Dutch language for a mutually clear understanding, rather than -in their own, or the Chinese, the above was also prepared in Dutch by -the consent of the American _opperbevelhebber_:— - - Dit dient on te verklaren, dat Yohatsi, Hikoyemon, en Dsirobe benoemd - zyn als loodsen voor schepenvan de Vereenigde Staten de haven van - Simoda binnenkomende, of uitgaande; en dat het loon voor de loodsen - door de bevoegde overheid is vastgesteld geworden als volgt: - - Voor schepen over 18 Amerikaansche voeten diep in het - water $15 00 - Voor schepen over 13 en minder dan 18 voeten diep $10 00 - Voor schepen under 13 Am: voeten diep $5 00 - - Dit loon zal betaald worden in gouden of zilveren munt of met eene - gelyke waarde in goederen; en hetzelfde zal betaald worden voor het - binnen komen als wel als voor het uitgaan. - - - Als schepen in den buitenhaven ankeren er niet naar binnen gaan, zal - alleen de helft van de hierboven vastgestelde loonen worden betaald. - - _Op last van den Opperbevelhebber_, - SILAS BENT, - _Liutenant Adjudant_. - _Goedgekeurd_ - - M. C. PERRY, - _Opperbevelhebber van de Oorlogsmagt van de Vereenigde Staten - in de zeeen van Oost Indie, China, en Japan_. - - _Eene ware vertaling_, - A. L. C. PORTMAN. - - V. S. Stoom Fregat Mississippi, - Simoda, Japan den 22sten Juny, 1854. - -It may be that the veneration, in which the memory of Iyeyas, is -held by the Japanese, had much to do with the making of the treaty. -Notwithstanding this Iyeyas, charged with the guardianship of the son -of Taico, who was the husband of his granddaughter, usurped his powers -and seized the ziogoonship for himself, still, barring his perfidy, he -may be considered the great Lycurgus of Japan. His laws and influence -endured longer than those of the ruler of Sparta. During his usurpation -he took the names of Daifusama and Ongonchio, and with the honors that -wait on success, about which it boots nothing to inquire,—at his death -he was _deified_ by impotent ziogoonship. Such was the reverence, in -which Iyeyas was and still is held, with a people, in whose annals, a -century is spoken of as yesterday, that his will was not only law, but -any wish, that he was known to have expressed, became sacred. He -it was who first granted the privilege of intercourse with the Dutch: -and that nation, instead of submitting to acts which would cause any -cheeks to tingle, but those of great moral obliquity or meerschaum -stupidity—instead of submitting to the durance vile of Dezima, and -trampling upon the symbol of a Savior’s sufferings—had it in their -power to exact anything, by expressing a wish or determination to leave -their fan-shaped prison factory: but they are old fogies, and their -course shows, that to stupidity they add stultification. - -[Illustration: _LITH. OF SARONY & Co. NEW YORK._ - DEZIMA.] - -The contempt for mercantile pursuits, and the revenue derived -therefrom, ascribed by the Dutch writers, to the “Japonicadom” of -Japan, is all leather and prunella. The exchequer of the princes at -times, is exceedingly limited and they are willing at such times to get -funds and a wife, by taking the daughter of some wealthy merchant as -_one_ of their better halves. The _quid pro quo_ to the father, for the -dimes, that the patrician son-in-law may take from his coffers, is the -privilege of wearing his coat-of-arms on the sleeve of his garments. - -But I have wandered from Iyeyas. This apotheosized usurper, enjoined -upon his people to have nothing to do with Europeans, and our country -not being known at the time of this injunction, and of course not -included in such a designation, the hermetics may have thought, they -could make a mere treaty of amity (and not of commerce, as has been -stated), without mental reservation, with the United States. Then, -too, the Japanese have an intelligent and excessive curiosity upon -all subjects of information, and they contend, that inventions and -discoveries are made now in such quick succession, that no nation may -keep pace with them, that has not access to the world. - -While it must remain on record, that as the Americans were the first -to deny one cent of tribute, and put an end to Tripolitan piracy, they -were also the first to break down the unsocial barrier, which the -“kingdom of the virgin of the sun” had hedged itself with, yet the -Japanese have now declared their purpose to make treaties, with all -nations similar to the one made with the United States, and they have -since done so with the English through Sir James Sterling, though his -compact is not as good as that of the Americans—the statements of the -London press to the contrary, because it contains no clause at once -granting to them any privilege, which any other nation may obtain from -the Japanese. - -The Japanese were much concerned about the siege of Silistria, and -knowing the vulnerability of their country, Russia from her proximity -to them, is the great bug-bear. They were told by the English at -Nangasaki, that the French were also coming up there, and knowing -that these two nations, and that of Chowstoff were at war, they were -much concerned for fear, these enemies should meet and have a fight -in their waters, and for the purpose of preserving and securing the -inviolability and neutrality of their country effectually, they make -treaties with all the parties, _maugre_ the injunction of the great -Iyeyas, and their declarations to us of a few months before. - -The Japanese were to have had a bazar opened at Simoda on our return -from Hakodadi, when our officers might procure the _curios_ of Japanese -lacquer, porcelain, crape, &c., but they were quite dilatory in getting -it ready, and urged as the cause, the non-arrival of some junks from -Osacca (pronounced like the city of Oaxaca in “Maheco,” or Mexico), -the seaport of Meaco. In the meantime, at the temple Leosenthsi, daily -conferences were held between some financial officers from Yedo, the -first lieutenant-governor, Kewakawa Kahei, and second lieutenant -governor, Isa Sintshiro, first and second presidents of the board of -revenue, on the part of the Japanese, and Pursers William Speiden of -the Mississippi, and J. C. Eldridge of the Powhatan, on the part of the -United States, to settle the very important question of the relative -value of the coins and currency of the two countries. The result was -anything but satisfactory. - -The Japanese commenced by stating that the _tael_ was their decimal -basis, in their system of weights and measures. As one of our cents was -ten mills, so one of their _taels_ is ten _mace_. Next to the _tael_ -comes the _canderine_, then the _cash_. But this is as to _weights_. -Their monetary system, while adopting the same nomenclature, is very -different. The coin denominated a _tael_ with them is equal to 1,000 -cash; a _tael weight_ of silver, is equal to two _taels_, and five -canderines, of currency; or 2.25 tael coin, or 2,250 cash. A tael -_weight_ of gold is equal to 19 _taels_, or 19,000 _cash_. - -They had no means of assaying the American, Mexican, and Spanish -dollar, but presuming them all to be of good silver, they proceeded to -determine the relative value with their coins by _weight_; a silver -dollar was found to be, by this standard, 7.12 mace—equivalent to a -little over 1,600 _cash_. Our twenty dollar goldpiece was of 8.8 mace -weight, and estimating the mace weight of gold at 1,900 _cash_, the -piece was deemed by them equal in value to 16,720 _cash_, or $10.45 of -our money. This made the gold dollar worth fifty-two cents; and silver -to bear the proportion to gold of 1 to 8.44. - -But little is known of the metaliferous history of Japan, further than -its territory, in many places, is very auriferous, and that the mining -of gold is an imperial monopoly. The Japanese founded their valuation -by the price of bullion as regulated by their law or imperial decree, -being assured that as long as Japan was excluded from all social -and commercial intercourse with other nations, and formed a little -world of its own, that a system of this kind might be carried on, -without prejudice to the rights of any; the Japanese government by -putting a fictitious value on their coin, or adopting the system of -seignorage, no doubt did so to take away the motive and inducement for -the exportation of their specie for purposes of profit. Their great -philosopher, _Arai Trikayo-no-kami_, compared the mineral production -of a country to its frame and bones, and the products of the soil to -the flesh of the body, which should always be in due proportion. The -bones, he said, once removed, could not be replaced. In addition to an -adherence to this doctrine, it has been a belief among the Japanese -ever since their intercourse with the Portuguese, who showed particular -avidity for the procurement of their bullion, that it was the policy -of foreigners to drain Japan of this resource, that it might fall an -easier prey to conquest when thus impoverished. - -The monetary system of Japan will require such almost radical -alteration, that it forms their objection, and presents the greatest -hinderance to commercial intercourse with others. The non-exportation -of bullion, must render trade a very difficult thing, and would have -the effect, as at Nangasaki with the Dutch and Chinese, of making the -government banker for both parties to a bargain, in buying and selling, -and all payments and receipts to pass through the hands of its officers. - -The government of Japan is now one of progress; and they admit their -willingness to make improvements in it; but these improvements -must not be hurried ones, but with due foresight and proper -precaution—slowly and gradually; fearing, to use their simile, that -unaccustomed to light, too much of its glare at one time, would dazzle -and produce blindness. - -After the survey of the harbor of Simoda, buoys were placed upon the -rocks discovered, surmounted with poles from which waved little flags -that we had made; and on one side of the entrance to the harbor had -been placed a large sign to indicate the locality of a dangerous rock -that lies in mid-channel of the entrance. The Japanese objected to the -presence of these flags, put there by us, on the grounds that it looked -as if we had taken possession of the place, and on their promising to -keep their places filled with their little customhouse-flag, they were -permitted to remove ours. - -They furnished a sample of their coal, which was brought aboard in -hampers. It was from the interior, and mere surface coal, they not -having any knowledge of how it should be mined. They might be able to -furnish it at thirty dollars per ton: it could be landed there from the -United States or England for twenty-five dollars. When they acquire the -knowledge of working their mines, and have the roads to convey it to -the seaboard, it may be different. - -Here, as at Hakodadi, after paying for them, stones of the requisite -size were procured for the Washington monument. Two of their long, -sharp, copper-fastened pine-boats, with their peculiar sculls, -ordered to be made previously, being completed, were hoisted on board -of the storeship Southampton to be sent to the United States. Our -band performed in the large temple-yard ashore. The governor of the -place allowed the poorer classes to come within the enclosure, and -the attention and delight with which they listened, and their asking -permission to present the musicians with fruit, showed that they were -both fonder and had more appreciation of pleasant strains than the -stolid Chinaman, who acknowledges no music save his horrible nasal -screech, or stupid tom-tom. - -A theatrical performance was given on board which was attended by the -commissioners. The body of the marine, Williams, was brought from -Yokohama in a Japanese boat in charge of some of his messmates, and -re-interred near the poor fellow killed on the Powhatan, in the spot -set apart in the Kakizaki temple ground, for an American cemetery. - -On the longest day in the year, the 21st of June, the bazar so long -looked for, was announced ready. The articles were arranged in the -temple Leosenthsi, money changing in a temple being a small thing -with the Japanese. The quantity of articles exposed, were not at all -proportioned to the number who wished to purchase, and there was -much disappointment. The Japanese made the excuse that they had not -sufficient time allowed them for the making of articles. The commodore -first visited the place, and found the articles ticketed with excessive -prices; particularly when seventeen cents per day may be regarded as -the average price of Japanese labor. He intimated to the commissioners -his displeasure at this, but these functionaries, who had no doubt thus -fixed things, very adroitly gave it to be understood that the reduction -of the prices of things at the vendue was a matter rather below their -position. The method in the madness of these official gentry was no -doubt this: there were a number of articles in this bazar similar -to those presented by their government to ours at Yokohama, and by -affixing these high prices they thought to give increased value to the -others, in our eyes. - -It was determined to dispose of the articles by lottery, so that all -might procure something. They were principally crapes and silks, and -specimens of porcelain and lacquered ware. The first-named fabrics, -I shrewdly suspect, may not have been of Japanese manufacture, but -probably were sent from Chapoo in China, by the junks to Loo-Choo, and -thence in their own to Japan. The amount of silks and crapes of the -finest texture made in their own country is not very great, and no -doubt entirely consumed by the higher castes. Siebold says, that their -most beautiful silks are woven by high-born criminals, who are confined -upon a small, rocky, unproductive island, deprived of their property, -and obliged to pay for the provisions with which they are supplied by -sea, with the produce of their manual labor; and that the exportation -of these silks is prohibited. - -The Japanese porcelain is of the purest, and surpasses in delicacy and -transparency any that France and England can offer. The finest, with -little raised images upon it, it is said, is made of a peculiar clay, -found in the vicinity of Meaco, and which is now nearly exhausted. Out -of little cups made of this ware, the saki is drunk. - -The specimens of lacquered ware, consisting of cabinets, bowls, cups, -trays, and despatch boxes, of different hues, were of great beauty, and -put many of us out of conceit with our purchases of similar things of -the Chinese. A most delicate-hued red appeared to be most prized by the -Japanese, but the American taste was for the black and a rich maroon -color. - -The process of lacquering is represented as being a slow and tedious -one. The workmen engaged over the lacquer in a boiling state, have -their nostrils protected from its fumes. The varnish is the resinous -product of a shrub called _verosino-ki_, or varnish-plant, and -requires a tedious preparation to fit it for use. The coloring matter -is mixed with it, by a long-continued rubbing on a copper plate; -and the operation of lacquering is as tedious as the preliminaries. -Five different coats, and sometimes more, are put on the article, -suffered to dry, and then finely pummiced, until the lacquer acquires -the requisite softness and brilliancy. Mother-of-pearl shells are -inlaid and subjected to the same polishing process. The lacquering -once thoroughly dry, it is impervious to the action of liquid heat, -and although not a very pleasant idea to us, who are accustomed to the -use of china-ware, the Japanese partake of hot soups and other dishes -from vessels thus made. Boiling water may be poured upon the Japanese -lacquer with impunity. - -The tea of Japan has been represented by some writers as being superior -to that of China, but what we saw at the entertainment, was not at all -comparable to that of Cathay. Before the warm water is poured on them, -the leaves have a very coarse appearance, and from the tea when made -there arises not that delightful aroma that salutes the nostrils when -you drink the fine beverage at Acow’s in Canton; indeed, they are no -doubt indebted to China for the finest teas they drink, and perhaps the -finest silks they wear. - -One does not observe, in going about in Japan, the propensity for -street-gambling which marks the towns of China—from the juvenile -pig-tail playing with the vendor for the fifth of an orange, upward. -The Japanese appear more elevated than this. When you notice playing it -is generally in the house, and not gaming, but with a board and pieces -resembling our chess. It was difficult to acquire much knowledge of -the contest by overlooking; indeed, the contestants generally desisted -very perversely during our presence. Our fleet-surgeon, Dr. Daniel S. -Green, however, with his taste for chess, and an obstinacy of study -which marks his investigation of every subject which he undertakes, -deciphered the game of the Japanese, and this is the doctor’s account -of it, from the best information he could obtain:— - -“The Japanese game of Sho-ho-ye corresponds to our game of chess. -This game is played by two persons, with forty pieces (twenty on -either side), and upon a chequer-board of eighty-one squares-nine on -each side. The board is of one uniform color, though the square might -be colored, as with us, for the sake of convenience. The pieces are -also of one uniform color, as they are used (at pleasure) by either -party, as his own, after being captured from the adversary. They are -of various sizes, are long and wedge-shaped, being at the same time -sharpened from side to side, in front, and the name of each piece is -inscribed upon it—both the original and the one assumed upon being -reversed—(as below). Each player distinguishes his men, or pieces by -always having the pointed and thin end forward. But they would be more -readily known if the back parts of all were painted with some decided -and striking color, as that part of his own men is seen by each player -only, and if the fronts of all the men were painted of some other -color, as that part of the adversary’s piece is seen by either player -only. They are laid flat upon the board (front forward), and thus their -names are plainly visible. They capture, as in chess, by occupying the -places of the captured pieces. The king, Oho-shio, being the chief -piece, can not remain in check—and when check-mated the game is lost. - -“The pieces are named, and are placed upon the board as follows:— - -“Oho-shio (king)—centre square, first row. - -“Kin-shio (gold), or chief counseller—upon first row, and on either -side of Oho-shio. - -“Gin-shio (silver, or sub-counseller)—upon first row, and one on each -square next outside Kin-shio. - -“Kiema (flying-horse)—upon first row, and one on each square next -outside Gin-shio. - -“Kioshia (fragrant chariot)—one upon each corner square, first row. - -“Hishia (flying chariot)—on second square, second row, right side of -the board. - -“Kakuko (the horn)—on second square, second row, left side of the -board. - -“Ho-hei (the soldiery)—on all the nine squares of the third row. - -“The moves and powers of the pieces are as below, only noting that in -capturing there is no deviation from them, as with us in the case of -pawns. - -“_Oho-shio_ moves and takes on one square in any direction. - -“_Kin-shio_ as the Oho-shio, except that he can not move diagonally -backward. - -“Neither of the above are ever reversed or acquire different powers; -but all the pieces below may be reversed (at the option of the player) -when they move _to_ and _from_ any square in any of the adversary’s -first three rows, and they do thereby acquire different powers, as well -as different names. - -“_Gin-shio_ moves and takes as the _Oho-shio_, except that he can -not move directly to either side, or directly backward. When he is -reversed, or turned over, he becomes a _Gin-Nari-Kin_, and acquires all -the powers (and those alone) of the _Kin-shio_. - -“_Kiema_ has the move of our knight, except that he is strictly -confined to two squares forward and one laterally, and can in no -case make more than four moves. When he is reversed he becomes a -_Kiema-Nari-Kin_, with all the powers (and those alone) of the -_Kin-shio_. - -“_Kioshia_ moves directly forward _only_, but that may be any number of -steps. He may be reversed up on either of the first three rows of the -adversary, and then becomes a _Kioshia-Nari-Kin_, with all the powers -(and those alone) of the _Kin-shio_. - -“_Hishia_ has the entire power of our castle, and when he is reversed -he assumes the name of _Rioho_ (the dragon), and acquires, in addition -to his former moves, all those of the _Oho-shio_. - -“_Kakuko_ has the entire powers of our bishop, and when reversed, -assumes the-name of _Riome_ (the dragoness), and acquires, in addition -to his former moves, all those of the _Oho-shio_. - -“_Ho_ moves forward one step only at a time, and may be reversed upon -either of the first three rows of the adversary; when so reversed, he -becomes a _Ho-Nari-Kin_, and acquires all the powers of the _Kin-shio_. - -“Besides the preceding moves and powers, any piece which has been -captured may be replaced upon the board, at the discretion of the -player—as follows, viz.: when it is his move, instead of moving one -of his men he can replace any one of the captured pieces upon any -unoccupied square whatever, observing to keep that side up which it was -entitled to originally; but it may be reversed at any move thereafter -if _to_ or _from_ any square in the before-mentioned first three rows -of the adversary—and observing, further, that he can not replace a -_Ho_ (or pawn) on any column upon which there is already one of his -own, i.e., he can not double a _Ho_ (or pawn). - -“It may be further stated, that no piece can pass over the head of any -other piece in its move, except the _Kiema_.” - -Preparations were made for taking what was then thought to be our final -departure from the Japanese empire. The commodore had transferred -his flag from the Powhatan to the Mississippi, like Byron, _not -precisely_ because he ever could write an address to the ocean, upon -whose bosom his stereotyped speeches say he has wasted the dearest -action of “some forty years of _my_ life,” but because Byron had a -weakness at Pisa for some mastiffs, cats, pea-fowls, &c.; and when -the American opperbevelhebber again had his broad pennant floating -over the Mississippi, her decks were ornamented with Tray, Blanche, -and Sweetheart, in the shape of Japanese dogs, presented him, with -pug-nosed, billiard-balled heads, and eyes so projecting and divided, -that some unfortunate estrangement seemed to have taken place between -them. The poop-deck was ornamented with no-tailed Japanese cats, or -their spinal columns extending to the point which would have pleased -Lord Monboddo, while under the break of the poop, in cages, swung -beautiful pheasants, mandarin ducks, and some graceful singing-birds. - -Agreeably to instructions from the government to make inquiries as to -some of our unfortunate countrymen who were supposed either to have -been lost at sea, or to be held in captivity on the island of Formosa, -it was ordered that the Macedonian should be sent to the harbor of -Keelong for that purpose, accompanied by the Supply; also to ascertain -the probability of the procurement of coal in that vicinity, and its -proximity to the seashore. This done, the Macedonian was to proceed to -Manilla, to leave there the three “Sally Baboo” men picked up by the -“Southampton” at sea, with the American consul, that they might be -sent back to their native land, which, by the chart, was not very far -distant from Luzon. - -On the 23d of June the Mississippi was gotten under way, and ran out to -anchor in what might be waggishly termed the “outer harbor” of Simoda, -a miserable roadstead off which a low rock island can not keep the sea, -where all next day we rolled and wallowed. - -On Sunday (we left Japan each time on Sunday) the 25th of June, -signal was made for the ships to weigh anchor. The Powhatan took the -Southampton in tow, and ran out of the port of Simoda. The Macedonian -and Supply endeavored to do the same, but the wind proving baffling, -they did not succeed. A long string of Japanese boats made fast to the -former and tried to tow her out, but were as successful as a June-bug -tied by a thread would be in trying to move the boy who held the other -end, so the noble razee had to let go her anchor to avoid going on -the rocks that encase the narrow entrance of the port of Simoda. The -Supply did the same. The Mississippi, after some delay, and a number -of gyrations, took her departure accompanied by the Powhatan with the -storeship. - -During the day, we were running down the westward side of the chain -of naked islands that extend to Loo-Choo. At four o’clock, Foogee -Yama, from his cloudy eyry, was seen like an angel’s wing, and then -withdrawn. Well, good-by, Foogee; admiration continued, is the most -tiresome of things, and one can tire of the brilliancy of Burke, with -his—“Around whose base things may moulder, but upon whose summit -eternity must play.” - -On the fourth day of the run, after those charming incidents of -sea-life—sky overhead and water all around—we were abreast of the -island of Oo, which the severe gale encountered in July, 1853, on our -return from our first visit to Japan, prevented an examination of, -that the correctness of a harbor laid down on a French chart, might -be ascertained. The ships laid off for three hours, during which time -Lieutenants Maury and Webb went ashore, taking with them bags of pork -and bread. The people on shore at first appeared quite alarmed at their -approach. Their dress was the same as those of the Loo-Chooans. Some -fowls and potatoes were obtained from them by giving them some pork and -bread in exchange; they refused money. It is supposed that we are the -first Christian people that ever had communication with these people; -rather an absurd supposition, considering the charts and surveys that -have been made in those seas by other nations, before we had either the -opportunity or desire to know anything about them. - -The next day, off the Great Loo-Choo island, the Southampton was cast -off, and proceeded to Hong Kong. That afternoon we saw quite a large -ship ahead. She was coming down before the wind with studding-sails -set. It was thought desirable to speak her, having had no mail -intelligence since March, in the bay of Yedo. Our colors were hoisted, -and the commodore directed a forward-gun to be fired, to attract -attention. The stranger, however, without appearing to notice it, -changed his course and then changed it again, declining to raise his -ensign, and keeping his nation to himself. Another gun was fired, -still no colors did he show. By this time the two steamers having -come up with him he lay to, and hoisted English colors. Upon sending -a boat to know what he meant by such conduct, it appeared that he -feared meeting the Russian squadron in that vicinity, and took us for -Russian steamers, and even after seeing the American ensign, thought -it might be designed to entrap him. The captain expressed regret for -the detention he had occasioned, and by newspapers from him we had the -first intelligence of England and France having united in hostilities -for the sultan. The ship was the Great Britain, from Shanghae, with a -valuable cargo of teas and silks, for London. She would have proved a -precious prize for Pontiatine. - -The next day we anchored in the roadstead of Napa, Loo-Choo. The first -intelligence from Captain Glasson, of the Lexington, was that a seaman -from his ship had been found in the waters of Junk harbor dead, and -expressed the belief that the man had come to his death by violence. -An investigation of the matter showed that the man had not only been -killed by the natives, but that he deserved to have been killed. The -poor Loo-Chooans being very much frightened about the occurrence, -and the local officers of Napa regarding the offence of the man as a -mortifying disgrace to their country, did not make a true report of the -circumstances to the prince-regent, and that high functionary, upon a -demand being made upon him by the commodore, himself misled, reported -that the man had fallen into the water when drunk and been drowned. -The commodore demanded a full investigation according to their laws, -though satisfied at the time that the man Board had been guilty of -a most heinous offence. From this it appeared that the man had been -first stoned by the crowd and badly wounded, and then fell into the -water and was drowned; after the commission of an offence—to use the -prince-regent’s language—that “All men detest and are angry at, and -would, without thinking, strike and wound the one guilty of it.” The -sentences adjudged by the Loo-Chooan tribunal, were to deprive the -mayor of Napa of his rank, and the deputy-magistrates of their offices, -for having made erroneous reports to the regent; Tokisi, the leader of -the mob who stoned, was banished to Pachung Sang for life, while five -others were banished to Taiping San for eight years. - -The severity of this punishment was very great, and it is to be -regretted that during the session of the tribunal that decreed it, the -commodore resorted to the menace of sending marine-officers ashore to -examine their forts, and then took possession, with some marines—the -United States bullying Loo-Choo! as Wise said to Bynum, “bullying a -fly!” The poor prince-regent was frightened nearly out of his senses; -he came off himself to the Mississippi with the poor devil Tokisi, with -a halter about his neck, offering to give him up to American custody, -prostrating himself before the commodore in his cabin—a pitiable -spectacle. He is next addressed by the American “Opperbevelhebber,” in -a communication commencing “Your Highness.” - -We ascertained from the master’s-mate who had been left in charge of -the invalids and coal-shed ashore in February, that a few days after -our departure for Japan, the Russian admiral Pontiatine, with the -frigate Diana (since lost by an earthquake at Simoda), a corvette, and -the steamer Vostock, visited Napa roads, staying some days, during -which time he drilled his men ashore, and grazed his cattle. He had -not then certain intelligence of England and France having gone to war -with his country, but notwithstanding his assurance of the proximity of -such a thing, as also of superior English and French naval forces, he -generously assisted the English ship Robena (which had been there to -bring the successor of Dr. Bettelheim) to get off the reef, taking the -while, her cargo of coolies aboard of his own ship. - -On Sunday, the Rev. E. H. Moreton, the successor of Dr. Bettelheim, a -pleasant-voiced little preacher, with mild face and cockney aspiration -of the letter _h_, read the English church-service, and delivered a -discourse on board of the Mississippi. He had come with his wife and -child from England to dwell in Napa, as spiritual teacher to a people -who are about as well prepared to receive Christianity, as they were -when his predecessor, six years before, went among them. The men and -officers of the squadron raised an amount of money for him before -leaving. - -The next Sunday on board, a sermon, blasphemous in character, was -preached by a missionary, in which the American commodore was likened -to another Jesus Christ, and a parallel deliberately instituted between -our Savior’s mission on earth and Commodore Perry’s mission to Japan. -That functionary sat on the quarter-deck, meanwhile listening to all -this without evincing, so far as any one could perceive, the slightest -displeasure. - -The steamers were coaled from shore by Loo-Chooan junks, during our -stay; the gunner of the Mississippi was sent to an island, called -Reef island, in a boat, to see whether it was used as a female penal -settlement as had been stated; and we saw the Japanese junks departing, -bearing away the rice of the island, some to Japan, some to Chapoo in -China, where the sons of the wealthy in Loo-Choo are educated without -cost. - -The American opperbevelhebber seems to have had a “would be a nun, and -a wouldn’t be a nun” idea of the _status_ of Loo-Choo: In a letter to -the secretary of the navy, as found in Senate-Document, No. 34 of the -XXXIIID Congress, he first says: “I am constantly obtaining information -confirmatory of the opinion that _Loo-Choo_, Meyaco-Sima, and the -Oho-Sima islands, are all dependencies of Japan.” - -On the 18th of June, 1854, he writes: “The opinions expressed in my -despatch, No. 41, _have been confirmed_ by subsequent observations, and -Loo-Choo, it appears, is in a measure an _independent_ sovereignty, -holding only slight allegiance either to Japan or China, but preferring -rather its relationship to the _latter_ empire; that the islands -stretching from Formosa to Kiusiu are all under its sovereignty, and -are in such intercourse with the parent island, Great Loo-Choo, as the -imperfect character of their means of navigation will allow.” - -In this despatch “No. 41,” he says—like Cowper’s bird perched upon -the church-steeple, “What says he?” “—— and are moreover told that -Loo-Choo is a royal fief of the empire of Japan, though it is asserted -by some writers, that it owes fealty only to the prince of Satsuma.” - -How does this “confirm” the statements contained in the despatch of -18th of June, 1854? - -In the Pickwickian Gazette, published in the English colony of Hong -Kong, y’clept “The China Mail,” of the 27th of July, 1854, the -demi-official announcement—of course in accordance with Secretary -Kennedy’s order—says:— - -“Having been assured by the commissioners at Yokohama, that Japan -exercised no jurisdiction whatever over Loo-Choo, the commodore -proposed making a treaty with the regent and drew up a sketch of what -he thought it desirable should be established by official sanction: -with some unimportant modifications, this was accepted.” - -According to Meylan, who was the Dutch opperhoofd, the president of -the factory at Desima, in his semi-annual audiences with the governor -of Nangasaki, among other things also takes upon himself an obligation -to respect all vessels “belonging to the Loo-Choo islands, they being -subject to Japan.” - -The American opperbevelhebber, however, after undergoing this pleasing -state of uncertainty, thought he would “make assurance doubly sure, and -take a bond” of the Loo-Chooans; so the following compact was agreed -to, very much on the part of the effeminate islanders, like the compact -of the poor chicken with the horse in the stable: that if he didn’t -tread on his toes, he wouldn’t tread on his toes:— - - _Compact between the United States and the Kingdom of Loo-Choo. - Signed at Napa, Great Loo-Choo, the 11th day of July, 1854._ - -Hereafter, whenever citizens of the United States come to Loo-Choo, -they shall be treated with great courtesy and friendship. Whatever -articles these persons ask for, whether from the officers or people, -which the country can furnish, shall be sold to them; nor shall the -authorities interpose any prohibitory regulations to the people -selling; and whatever either party may wish to buy, shall be exchanged -at reasonable prices. - -Whenever ships of the United States shall come into any harbor in -Loo-Choo, they shall be supplied with wood and water at reasonable -prices; but if they wish to get other articles, they shall be -purchasable only at Napa. - -If ships of the United States are wrecked on Great Loo-Choo, or on -islands under the jurisdiction of the royal government of Loo-Choo, the -local authorities shall despatch persons to assist in saving life and -property, and preserve what can be brought ashore till the ships of -that nation shall come to take away all that may have been saved; and -the expenses incurred in rescuing these unfortunate persons, shall be -refunded by the nation they belong to. - -Whenever persons from ships of the United States come ashore in -Loo-Choo, they shall be at liberty to ramble where they please, without -hinderance, or having officials sent to follow them, or to spy what -they do; but if they violently go into houses, or trifle with women, or -force people to sell them things, or do other such like illegal acts, -they shall be arrested by the local officers, but not maltreated, and -shall be reported to the captain of the ship to which they belong, for -punishment by him. - -At Tumai is a burial-ground for the citizens of the United States, -where their graves and tombs shall not be molested. - -The government of Loo-Choo shall appoint skilful pilots, who shall be -on the lookout for ships appearing off the island, and if one is seen -coming toward Napa, they shall go out in good boats beyond the reefs -to conduct her into a secure anchorage, for which service the captain -shall pay the pilot, five dollars; and the same for going out of the -harbor beyond the reefs. - -Whenever ships anchor at Napa, the local authorities shall furnish them -with wood at the rate of three thousand six hundred copper cash per -thousand catties; and with water at the rate of six hundred copper cash -(forty-three cents) for one thousand catties, or six barrels full, each -containing thirty American gallons. - - Signed in the English and Chinese languages by Commodore MATTHEW C. - PERRY, Commander-in-chief of the United States Naval Forces in the - East India, China, and Japan seas, and special envoy to Japan, for - the United States; and by SHO FU-FING, Superintendent of affairs, - (Tsu-li-kwan) in Loo-Choo; and BA RIO-SI, Treasurer of Loo-Choo at - Shui, for the government of Loo-Choo, and copies exchanged this 11th - day of July, 1854, or the reign HIEN-FUNG, 4th year, 6th moon, 17th - day, at the Town-Hall of Napa. - -On landing to sign this rather singular document, the customary -quantity of “boom-a-laddying” was indulged in, as per following order:— - - One large howitzer from the Mississippi. - One large howitzer from the Powhatan. - Twenty-four marines from the Mississippi. - Twenty-four marines from the Powhatan. - Band of music from the Mississippi. - Band of music from the Powhatan. - Each howitzer to be accompanied by a box of fixed ammunition, and - their crews armed with cutlasses. - The marines with muskets and twenty-four rounds of ball-cartridges. - The seamen to be dressed in white with straw hats. - The marines in fatigue summer-dress. - The officers in white pants, frock-coats, swords, epaulettes, and caps. - The bandsmen in white. - Two orderlies with their muskets to be detailed as an escort for the - broad pennant. - A flag-bearer and two seamen as a guard for the ensign. - -Our government should pay a little attention to the fantastic tricks, -which its commodorial gentry cut up in such countries, as Loo-Choo: -“fixed ammunition,” “cutlasses,” and “ball-cartridges,” taken ashore -among a people whose forts are disarmed; among whom not one offensive -weapon was noticed after months of intercourse; and whose nation, in -its present condition, reversing the remark of Chatham, might be driven -with a crutch. - -And then too, two orderlies with muskets escorting “_the_ broad -pennant”—a kind of an ark of the covenant carried before, and the -American “ensign” playing second fiddle behind!—just imagine such a -procession? It is equal to the swallow-tailed yellow flag, that I saw -one day carried behind a high functionary, as I passed his procession -coming down from Sheudi. - -If a broad pennant means anything, it means this: a piece of bunting to -designate an admiral’s ship or boat in squadron sailing, or in harbor: -a cynosure for all the other vessels, because from the ship that wears -it, orders are signaled and dispositions directed; but when it is -taken from a main-truck, or from the commander-in-chief’s boat, to be -boom-a-laddyed on shore in a procession, it becomes meaningless, if -not ridiculous; a land officer in the field had better fly a distinct -flag over his marquee; and an American commodore, who leaves his ship -to land in an enemy’s or friend’s country, had better be provided -by the navy department with a kind of “white plume,” like that of -“Harry of Navarre,” or “_the_ broad pennant” had better be declared an -_oriflamme_; but all true Americans have a weakness, which runs in -this wise: that the stars and stripes, are oriflamme enough. - -But it may be, that the commodore may be allowed to explain—to give -some reason for boom-a-laddying ashore with his broad pennant, and -having a sword-bearer to walk behind with his trusty blade in the -streets of Simoda. In his notes to the secretary of the navy, of his -second visit to Japan he says:— - -“I have adopted the two extremes—by an exhibition of great pomp, when -it could be properly displayed, and by avoiding it, when such pomp -would be inconsistent with the spirit of our institutions.” - -This pompatic paragraph appears rather a _non sequitur_; unless it can -be shown _when_ an exhibition of great pomp is consistent with the -spirit of our institutions. - -The _entente cordiale_ being established with the “kingdom of -Loo-Choo,” presents of agricultural implements and a hand cotton-gin, -were made to the authorities, who returned air-plants and birds. A -stone from the island was also procured for the Washington monument. - -The commodore having entertained the regent and the authorities -on board the flag-ship Mississippi with a supper and Ethiopian -performance, the Lexington sailed for Hong Kong on the 15th, and two -days after—the anniversary of our first departure from Japan—we bid -good-by to the Loo-Chooans, as much, no doubt, to their delight as our -own. - -In getting off the Amakarimas, the Powhatan parted company with us, -bound for Amoy and Ningpo, and in four days we had a Chinese pilot on -board, and the next dropped anchor in the harbor of Hong Kong, China, -from whose mail facilities we had been absent over half a year. - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - - -Letters: considering the rapid occurrence of events of moment -now-a-days, and the lightning transmission of intelligence, it was with -joy we got letters on our arrival at Hong Kong, having been for over -half a year, so far as news was concerned, inhumed in a remote country. -The official news was, that we were ordered home by way of California -and South America, at which all were overjoyed; and the commodore -was granted permission to return to the United States _via_ Europe, -at government expense. Many a poor fellow got letters that had been -waiting for him in Hong Kong a long time, and at the same time letters -from others of later date, that told that the writers of the former -ones could never write again. - -We found in the harbor the ships of the surveying squadron under -Commodore Ringgold, among which was the since ill-fated Porpoise. - -There had been no improvement in the intestine troubles. An American -captain had been murdered by the Chinese; and the dearly-beloved -occupants of the hongs of Canton, feeling insecure in the possession -of their “filthy lucre”—for if the “chop dollar” of China is not -filthy lucre, I know not what it is—the Mississippi proceeded to her -old anchorage at Whampoa, and sent men and howitzers, as before, up to -the city. The captain of the American ship Amity, having been murdered -by two of his foreign crew, the next morning after our arrival through -the intervention of “Judge Lynch,” their bodies were seen suspended -from either yard-arm of their vessel. - -The state of affairs in Canton being deemed imminent, the little -jolly-boat English steamer, called the Queen, which the commodore had -hired and left off the hongs, previous to our leaving for Japan in -January, ran down and took up another force to the city. A body of -rebels had captured the wealthy and populous city Fuhshan, about twenty -miles from Canton, and the mandarins were doing nothing to arrest their -progress. One morning, for this purpose, a detachment of a thousand -men under a brigadier, were quietly taking up their ground, when they -were surprised by a party of rebels, and before they could seize their -arms, some hundreds of them and their camp-followers were killed, and -the rest escaped pell-mell into the city. The tents, matchlocks, and -ammunition, were all carried off, and the brigadier was among the -missing. - -I had an opportunity during this visit of seeing the largest fleet of -the emperor, which had an immense number of streamers flying: and also -at an early hour of making a visit to the tea-packing establishments -at Honan, whose inmates appeared ready to decamp at short notice. - -Vessels going down the Pekiang were crowded with Chinese flying from -the place, and the river steamers were chartered at enormous rates; -so that the total emigration to Macao and Hong Kong was not much -under five thousand, including several men of distinction, such as -the brothers of Heu Chang-kwang, the provincial treasurer, and their -families, and of Puntingqua and his family, to Macao; and Howqua and -Eesing with their families to Hong Kong. - -On the 29th of July we were at Hong Kong, and the 11th of August -saw us again at Whampoa, together with that noble steam-frigate the -Susquehanna, that had not long been back from a very interesting trip -to Nanking. - -On the 15th of August, when taking our final departure from Whampoa, -we saw a Dutch ship fired upon from a rebel battery; also one of the -mandarin boats, running up powder, but the fleetness of their sailing, -and the bad gunnery of the Chinese, enabled them to go by unharmed. - -Having to wait the return of the Macedonian with Captain Abbott, to -whom the command of the three remaining ships was to be transferred, -the commodore fixed September 11th for the day of his departure by the -oriental steamer. In the meantime the Susquehanna, which with the -Mississippi, was to make the long stretch across the Pacific, departed -for Simoda, Japan—on her first and only visit to that place—towing -the Southampton, laden with coal, intended for the use of the two -steamers in their run from Japan of over three thousand miles to -Honolulu. The storeships Supply and Lexington were also despatched -homeward by the way of the Cape of Good Hope. It is scarcely necessary -to give the state of affairs in China at the time of the departure -of these ships. The fighting of the Chinese—if fighting it might -be called—continued, and we had reports one day how the city of -_Sling-Gin_ had been captured by the insurgents, and another day, that -the imperialists still held the city of _Gin-Sling_. - -The Chinese government insists upon its officers, saying, when required -to perform anything for it, what the Frenchman told the lady: “Madam, -if _possible_, it is done already; if _impossible_, it shall be -done”—though placing no means at their disposal for accomplishing the -desired result. - -The following being so very Chinese, I insert it. _T’sing-ling_ nor -_Tae-yung_ could not prevent the capture of _Woo-chang_. On reading -the report of its downfall, the emperor said: “It is impossible -to repress my grief and indignation. That Tae-yung, though charged -with two provinces, seems not to have had a single plan for their -defence. Formerly we deprived him of official rank, with the hope -that he would exert himself and make amends for previous errors; but -lo! he follows his old habits, and has thus brought disaster on a -large portion of the empire; this is most detestable and abominable. -Let Tae-yung be instantly deprived of office, and handed over to the -direction of Yang-pae. We also order Yang-pae to hasten to his new -appointment, and place himself at the head of all the troops in those -provinces, in order immediately to exterminate these rebels, and -recover the provincial capital out of their hands; afterward let him -sweep away this pestilence, in order to fulfil the object for which we -have intrusted him with this great command. Let him also endeavor to -ascertain what has become of all the officers both civil and military -who were formerly stationed at Woo-chang, and report. Respect this.” - -But the Macedonian having gotten back from Manilla, the time had -arrived when Opperbevelhebber Perry was to leave in the mail-steamer. -This interesting event took place on the 11th of September, one day -after the date of the great naval-battle of his Hyperion brother on -Lake Erie, and one before the battle of North Point, and three before -the allied armies landed in the Crimea. Previous to this important -epoch, the _American_ (_!_) merchants at Canton addressed him an -epistle as characteristic as the speech of the - - “—— men of Coventry, - Who came down to see - Her gracious majesty!” - -This _bijou_ of toadyism had this for a superscription:— - - His Excellency Commodore MATTHEW C. PERRY, - _Commander-in-Chief of the Naval Forces U. S., in the East India, - China, and Japan Seas, and late Envoy to Japan, &c., &c., &c._ - -They first acknowledged the promptitude with which he extended -protection to their interests, so much needed, during his command in -those seas. - -“Protection.” Commodore Perry arrived in the waters in the vicinity of -Canton, on the 7th of April, 1853, and on the 27th of the same month -he ran up to Shanghae, and after a short stay there, he bundled off -with all the ships he could to the island of Loo-Choo, where he lay -inert from the 26th of May to the 2d day of July; and did not return to -China until August. The gentlemen who much do congregate on the rialto -of Canton, address “His Excellency,” concerning the magnitude of the -interests, which requires protection, and the storeship Supply, like -the other ships, not being required until the next visit to Japan, she -is sent up to lay off the hongs. This tub to the mercantile whale, -satisfied for a time, but when the period arrived for the return to -Japan, luckily for “His Excellency,” the merchants suggested the -charter of a miserable little English steamer, and he not regarding -it his duty to inform the opium gentry, that the carronades of the -Supply would afford more protection than the penny-whistle battery of -the jolly-boat steamer, gladly withdrew the needed storeship, and -chartered the Queen. The puny craft when started in Hong Kong harbor, -was amusing. A Chinaman on one wheel-house with a bamboo-pole, prized -the wheel over the “centre,” and four or five men being required at her -“starting-bar,” when they got her going they did not like to stop her, -and she spun about the harbor like a chicken, _minus_ his head. The -arms of her wheels being wood, before getting over to Macao she broke -off several. Her pop-guns, only two of which were aside, had perhaps -never been “scaled,” - - “And like gun well aimed, at duck or plover, - Bear wide the mark and kick the owner over.” - -As Hon. Humphrey Marshall said, in speaking of the protection afforded -by the American opperbevelhebber:— - -“What are the means? A British steamer of one hundred and fifty tons, -manned by twenty sailors and ten Chinese, and carrying an armament of -four guns of four-pound calibre each. In the event of a disturbance, -the Queen may suffice to transport the women and children of American -citizens from the city, provided they reach her decks without -molestation; but to defend the lives or property of American citizens -here in the presence of an invading mob or a band of robbers, the -provision made is not equal to any exigency whatever.” - -After some vernacular of the shop—he went to Japan with their “best -wishes _freighted_,”—they indulge in wonderful erudition about -Columbus, De Gama, Cook, La Perouse, and Magellan, and they wind up -with the pleasant tangible, of requesting his acceptance of a durable -memorial of his visit to China, as a testimony of the estimation in -which they held his public services and private character. - - U. S. FLAG-SHIP MISSISSIPPI, - _Hong Kong_, September 7, 1854. - - GENTLEMEN: It is impossible for me to find words sufficiently - expressive of my profound thanks for the very flattering praise which - you, in your prodigal kindness and generosity, have bestowed upon me - in your communication of the 4th instant. - - In the execution of my duties as commander of the East India squadron, - and with special reference to the mission to Japan, I am unconscious - of having done more than might have been expected of me as a zealous - and loyal officer. - - The testimonial of which you speak will be received with the highest - gratification, and my children will be enjoined to treasure it as - a memorial of the many favors their father had received from his - fellow-countrymen in China. - - In separating myself from those with whom I have been so long and so - agreeably associated, I can not but hope that we shall all meet again - in our own happy country; and with this pleasant anticipation, I - subscribe myself, with every feeling of sincere friendship and respect, - - Your obliged and most obedient servant, - M. C. PERRY. - -The “durable memorial” was understood to be a service of silver, since -made in the United States, and perhaps none the less brilliant because -opium syce may have paid for it; and, as a change must have come over -the commodore’s dream, for on the 9th of October, 1853, he writes -to the secretary of the navy: “The most profitable branch of trade -carried on by many of the Americans, English, and other foreigners, is -of a clandestine character, in violation of the laws of China and the -stipulations of the Cushing treaty; and it is difficult for a naval -commander, in extending the protection of his ship, to distinguish -between the property engaged in the legal or illegal trade.” And in -concluding the same despatch, he says: “In my business with Japan, -where as yet there are no American merchants, or diplomatic agents, I -have the assurance of not being interfered with, and shall be able to -act with energy and promptitude, and without embarrassment, and whether -successful or otherwise, the responsibility will all rest upon myself.” - -Then comes an epistle from four little Malwa and Patna “tuft-hunters” -of Hong Kong, who also like to make Judy Fitzsimmons of themselves. -After giving “His Excellency” much that is fulsome and adulatory, they -speak of his having opened the “_commerce_” of Japan, “not only to us, -but to the world.” What nonsense. - -We have no _commercial_ treaty with Japan, but only one “of peace and -amity,” and strange that the newspapers will persist in saying so. -Mischief may come of it in inducing some Yankee trader to go there with -an assorted cargo, who will be very apt to have his labor for his pains. - -But for the seriousness of speech that marked the presentation to “His -Excellency,” by the governor of Rhode Island, on behalf of its general -assembly, of a splendid salver, having on it “in testimony of their -appreciation of his services to his country in negotiating a treaty -of amity _and commerce_ with Japan,” together with the commodore’s -teaching the heathen _the observance of the Sabbath_, that worthy -functionary would be deemed waggish. - -On the morning of the 11th of September, being the ninth day, of the -ninth moon, of the fourth year of the reign of Hien-fung, Commodore -Matthew Calbraith Perry left in the English mail-steamer Ganges for -home; the Mississippi and the Macedonian firing the parting salute, and -the men in the rigging giving three cheers. - -We were to have taken our final leave of the grand, celestial, central, -middle, flowery kingdom, on the same day, but it stormed, and we did -not leave until the next morning, and few, if any, saw the naked hills -of Hong Kong fade in the distance with regret. A few hours before us, -the poor Porpoise got under way and left the port—that port to which -her sail - - “Should never stretch again.” - -This was the last that was seen of her, and she no doubt foundered in -the typhoon of the 7th of October, encountered by the Mississippi, -which noble old ship struggled and maintained her existence for mortal -hours under the force of a hurricane, and received the terrific blows -of the infuriated sea more bravely than did the black knight under the -pounding of the stalwart friar—if “aught inanimate” can have bravery, -all honor to thee, old ship! and with more fervency than blesses the -bridge that carries us over, honor to thee, old ship, again! - -We stood up the Formosa channel, and in nine days were entering -again the harbor of Simoda. We found here the Susquehanna and the -Southampton. The former vessel left for the Sandwich Islands on -the 24th of September. The stormy season having commenced in that -latitude, it was too rough for us to commence coaling for several -days, from the storeship. We ascertained that the Susquehanna had -buried Surgeon Hamilton at Simoda, making the third interment in the -contracted American burial-place. The shafts over the tombs were well -proportioned, the letters of the inscriptions, with the imitative -art of the Mongolian race, cut with exactness, and gilded, and the -cap-stones, an original ornament, seeming to blend an urn and an acorn. - -Captain Lee, of the Mississippi, with a suite of officers, made an -official call on the lieutenant-governor of the now imperial city -of Simoda, and was received with marked courtesy, and entertained -in the Japanese style. The little strips resembling fried eel were -as attractive as fried snake, but the crystallized grapes, with -indifferent sugar, were rather palatable. There was handed around -a small berry, not unpleasant to the taste, resembling the haw -cultivated. The old Rip Van Winkle—_Yemanese Koso_—plied his guests -with the little thimbles of imperial saki, that he might unite with -them. - -Captain Lee returned these civilities with a collation on board of his -ship, and treated the Japanese to the music of the Mississippi’s fine -band, of which they are unaffectedly fond. He had a correspondence with -the authorities relative to the absence of the spar-buoys which had -been placed to mark dangerous rocks in the harbor. They replied that -they had been washed away by the severe gales preceding our arrival, -but that they would replace them, which they did. - -During this visit the Japanese displayed much willingness to trade with -us—that is, if trading means to sell everything you can for Spanish -dollars and takes nothing else in return. There was one instance only -to the contrary. An intelligent engineer of the ship had a revolver; -a Japanese officer wished it very much. He was told that he could -have it for so many _its-evoos_, which the penalty for permitting to -pass out of the country was very great. He offered a large amount in -silver dollars. No; at last his cupidity for the pistol overcame his -fear for the consequences, and he paid for it in the _its-evoos_, and -disappeared over the side. These were about the only Japanese coins -that were procured during our stay in the country. Were you to offer -one of the barbers of the country, “whose name is legion,” a piece of -silver for one of their cash—the twelfth of a cent—he would be glad -to have it, but the inexorable law is ever before his eyes. - -At Simoda we found a junk bound to Yedo with a large mortar aboard, -purchased from the Dutch; also the model of an English boat. - -We ascertained, that Kyama Yezimon, under the permission of the -emperor, had built a three-masted ship on the model of the Southampton, -they alleging, that she was our fastest sailing ship, or made the -shortest trips. Her trial-trip had given them much satisfaction, up the -bay from Uraga. They painted her red, with black stripes, and called -her the _Ho-o-maro_, meaning “sea-ship.” - -Captain Lee distributed among the imperial officers of the place, and -suite, a number of cotton-cloths of various kinds from New England. -They took them, because it was the part of politeness to take them, -rather than because they had any use for them. The upper class would -not use them, the scanty wardrobe of the poorer class does not need -them, unless they could be educated to breeches, nor could they -purchase them. There are times when they can not get enough to eat; -indeed it is said, that there was a famine in the land at the time of -the visit of the Morrison, in 1836. The fact is the Japanese are a -people of few wants, and no luxuries, and the great trade prophesied -with that country, should we ever get a commercial treaty, is a mere -myth and exists in the brain of visionaries alone. I deliberately -believe, that any clipper-ship, that would go there with the hopes of -a profitable venture, would rot at her anchors, before she disposed of -her cargo, or got anything profitable in return. - -The Mississippi took her final departure from Japan on the 1st of -October, towing the Southampton as far as Volcanic Oho Sima, where the -ships parted company. _Foogee_ was hid. - - * * * * * - -In February last, Commander H. A. Adams, visited Simoda in the Powhatan -and exchanged the ratification of our treaty with the Japanese, but not -without some delay and difficulty. The Japanese affected to be much -surprised at his early return, and contended, that the treaty said, -that the exchange of ratifications was to be _in_ eighteen months. -Captain Adams contended, that our copy said _within_ eighteen months, -and that we had a right to send it back as soon as we liked. After -some delay in getting the originals from Yedo and examining them, this -matter was settled. - -When they were asked for the signature of the emperor to accompany -that of the president, they said that was impossible: that he never -put his name to any document whatever. The captain then resorted to a -little bullying—the thing which had been so successfully practised -upon them by the _opperbevelhebber_—and told them, he would not like -to carry back such an answer to his country—that if we could have -imagined such a thing, our secretary of state only would have signed -the ratification, and not the president. They came down and gave the -signature of the emperor—that is a lot of snakes’ tails, flies’ legs, -and triangles, which for all we know, were but there by Tatsnoski, or -any other functionary. - -The appearance of Simoda after the frightful earthquake there in -December, was sad in the extreme. The town was piled in ruins, and -junks had been carried a distance of two miles into neighboring fields. - -The Russian admiral Pontiatine was at Simoda, during the terrible -convulsion, and seeing nothing desirable about the port, had been -insisting upon Oassacca, the seaport of the city of Meaco, as one of -the places to be granted his country, but the wrecking of his ship, the -Diana, by the earthquake, left him in no condition to insist upon his -point with force, so he was compelled to consent to Simoda. - -The implicit obedience to their laws, under whatever circumstances, by -the Japanese, was shown at the wrecking and sinking of a junk, that -drifted afoul of the Diana and was stove. Two of her crew only clung to -the Diana, the rest stolidly sunk with the junk. Those saved were asked -the cause of this strange conduct on the part of their late comrades. -They said it was, that their laws forbid them going on board of a -foreign vessel; nor did they know what would be done with themselves -for it. - -If it be the best government, which governs least, that is not the -government of Japan; like the law of gravitation it is always in -action: its Briarian arms are everywhere, and its subjects are a -community of Arguses. When storm is on the deep and its mariners are -clinging to their long tillers and shuddering at the yawning sea, each -lightning flash of heaven shows them an etiolating hand, that will -crush them, if they dare leave their craft, until half engulfed. - -The English and French squadrons visited Nangasaki, and negotiated -their treaty there; though their freedom of movement was greatly -restricted. Their masters were only allowed to land on a small barren -island to rate their chronometers; during the conferences some of their -officers were taken to task by the Japanese for spitting on their -matting. - - * * * * * - -The cruise of the United States steam-frigate Mississippi under the -command of a fine officer and estimable gentleman—Sydney Smith Lee, -during the years 1852, ’53, ’54, and ’55, was one full of interest. -She is the third war-steamer, that ever circumnavigated the globe, and -during her cruise sailed a distance more than twice its circumference. -She visited places, too, unusual. - -The writer wishes that the time had been afforded him to give -an outline of the terrible typhoon, which she encountered in -the North Pacific ocean on the 7th of October, 1854—how we saw -_two_ Mondays, or two 16ths of October, come together in the -same week—Honolulu—California—Taboga—stay at Valparaiso—the -brilliant dash of the old ship, with a chasing gale, into the straits -of Magellan: of her subsequent run through them “amid snow and -glacier”—the firing of the “22d of February” salute, which was heard -by the Patagonian—Rio Janeiro, &c., but this would make our narrative -of undue length. - - - - -APPENDIX. - - -SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR NAPA, ISLAND GREAT LOO-CHOO. - -BY LIEUTENANT S. BENT, U. S. NAVY. - -This is the principal seaport of the island, and perhaps the only one -possessing the privileges of a port of entry. - -Its inner, or Junk harbor, has a depth of water of from two to three -fathoms, and though small, is sufficiently large to accommodate with -ease, the fifteen or twenty moderate-sized junks which are usually -found moored in it. These are mostly Japanese, with a few Chinese and -some small coasting craft, which seem to carry on a sluggish trade with -the neighboring islands. - -The outer harbor is protected to the eastward and southward by the main -land, while in other directions it is surrounded by merely a chain of -coral reefs, which answer as a tolerable breakwater against a swell -from the northward or westward, but affords of course, no shelter from -the wind. The holding ground is so good, however, that a well-found -ship could ride out here almost any gale in safety. - -The clearest approach to Napa from the westward, is by passing to -the northward of the Amakarima islands and sighting Agenhu island, -whence steer a S. E. course for the harbor, passing on either side of -Reef islands, being careful, however, not to approach them too near -on the western and southern sides, as the reefs below water in these -directions, are said to be more extensive than is shown by the charts. - -After clearing Reef islands, bring Wood Hill to bear S. S. E., when -stand down for it, until getting upon the line of bearing for _South -channel_. This will carry you well clear of Blossom reef, yet not so -far off but that the White Tomb and clump of trees or bushes to the -southward of Tumai Head can be easily distinguished. An E. N. E. ½ E., -or E. N. E. course will now take you in clear of all dangers, and give -a good anchorage on or near the seven-fathom bank, about half a mile to -the northward and westward of False Capstan Head. This channel being -perfectly straight, is more desirable for a stranger entering the -harbor, than _Oar channel_, which, though wider, has the disadvantage -of its being necessary for a vessel to alter her course some four or -five points, just when she is in the midst of reefs, which are nearly -all below the surface of the water. - - -TO ENTER BY OAR CHANNEL. - -Bring the centre of the island in Junk harbor (known by the deep -verdure of its vegetation), to fill the gap between the forts at the -entrance of Junk harbor and steer a S. E. ½ E. course, until Capstan -Head bears east, when haul up to E. N. E. and anchor as before directed. - - -THE NORTH CHANNEL - -Is very much contracted by a range of detached rocks making out from -the reef on the west side, and should not under ordinary circumstances -be attempted by a stranger; as at high water the reefs are almost -entirely covered, and it is difficult to judge of your exact position, -unless familiar with the various localities and landmarks. To enter by -this (North) channel, bring a remarkable notch in the southern range -of hills, in line with a small hillock just to the eastward of False -Capstan Head and stand in on this range S. by E. ½ E. until Tumai Head -bears E. ½ N., when open a little to the southward, so as to give the -reef to the eastward a berth, and select your anchorage. - -There is a black spar-buoy anchored on Blossom reef _half way between -its eastern and western extremities_, a red spar-buoy on the point -of reef to the W. N. W’d of Abbey point, and a white spar-buoy on -the southeast extremity of Oar reef. Flags of corresponding colors -are attached to all these buoys, and they afford good guides for the -South and Oar channels. There are two large stakes on the reefs to the -eastward and westward of North channel, planted there by the natives, -this being the channel mostly used by junks trading to the northward. - -An abundance of water can always be obtained at the fountains in Junk -river, where there is excellent landing for boats. There is a good -spring near the tombs in Tumai bluff, but unless the water is perfectly -smooth the landing is impracticable, and under any circumstances it is -inconvenient from the want of sufficient depth, except at high tide. - -It is directed by the commander-in-chief that the vessels of the -squadron under his command, shall heave to, on approaching Napa, and -make signal for a pilot, when an officer familiar with the localities -and landmarks will be sent off from the vessel in port to pilot her in, -or point to her commander the position of the dangers to be avoided. - -Should there, however, be no vessel in port, then boats are to be sent -ahead, and anchored upon the extremities of the reefs, between which -the vessel intends to pass. - -MACAO, October 1, 1853. - - * * * * * - -NOTE.—The spar-buoys, above described, were securely moored at the -time they were placed in their respective positions, by order of -Commodore Perry, but may be displaced, or entirely removed by the heave -of the sea, or by the natives, and should therefore not be entirely -relied upon. - - -OONTING, OR PORT MELLVILLE, ISLAND GREAT LOO-CHOO. - -BY LIEUTENANT S. BENT, U. S. NAVY. - -Oonting harbor is on the N. W. side of Loo-Choo, and distant about -thirty-five miles from Napa. - -Sugar Loaf island, an excellent landmark, lies about twelve miles to -the W. N. W’d of the entrance. The island is low and flat, with the -exception of a sharp conical peak near its eastern extremity, which -rises to a height of several hundred feet. - -Passing to the northward of Sugar Loaf island, an E. S. easterly course -will bring you to the mouth of the harbor, and to the northward and -westward of Kooi island. It is advisable to heave to here, or anchor -in twenty or twenty-five fathoms water, until boats or buoys can be -placed along the edges of the reefs bordering the channel, for without -some such guides, it is difficult for a vessel of large draft to find -her way in between the reefs, which contract, in places, to within a -cable’s length of each other, and are at all times covered with water. - -The ranges and courses for the channel, are first: Hele rock in -range with double-topped mountain bearing south thirty-seven degrees -east. Steer this course, keeping the range on until Chimney rock -bears S. ½ E.; then for Chimney rock, until Point Conde bears south -forty-nine degrees east; then for Point Conde, until entering the -basin of Oonting, when anchor; giving your ship room to swing clear -of the reef making out to the northward of Point Conde, and you will -be as snug as if lying in dock; with good holding ground, completely -land-locked, and sheltered almost entirely from every wind. - -Good water is to be had at the village of Oonting. - - -SAILING DIRECTIONS AND OBSERVATIONS, UPON LLOYD HARBOR, BONIN ISLANDS. - -FROM REPORTS OF ACTING MASTERS MADIGAN AND BENNETT, OF THE U. S. SHIPS -SARATOGA AND SUSQUEHANNA. - -The entrance to the harbor of Port Lloyd, on the western side of -Peel island, one of the Bonin group, is well defined; so that it can -scarcely be mistaken. - -A ship bound in, would do well to place a boat on the shoal, that -makes off south from the eastern point of Square Rock, as it is called -on Beechy’s harbor chart. This shoal can be easily seen from aloft, -however, even when there is no swell on. It extends full two cables -length from Square Rock to the southward, and is steep. The centre -of the shoal is awash with a smooth sea. The tide rises about three -feet, and there is a coral rock about one cable’s length north from -the northern point of Southern Head, on which I found _eight feet -water_. But a ship entering the harbor would not be likely to approach -Southern Head so near as to be upon it. This island, as well as those -surrounding it, is chiefly visited by whale-ships, and its products, -therefore, are such as to suit their wants. - -Potatoes, yams, and other vegetables, fruits of various kinds, together -with wild hogs and goats can be procured from the few whites and -Sandwich-islanders—thirty five in all—settled there. Wood is good -and plentiful, and water can be had, though in limited quantities, and -slightly tainted by the coral rocks from which it springs. - -The anchorage is fair, though open to the south and west. The -reconnoissance made by order of the commander-in-chief, proved the -accuracy of Captain Beechy’s chart. - -Mr. Bennet, acting master of the Susquehanna, says in his report: -“Assuming the position of Napa in Great Loo-Choo island, as established -by Beechy, to be correct, I find by the mean of my chronometers, that -he has placed Ten-Fathom Hole, in Port Lloyd, five miles too far to the -westward, and consequently the whole group is placed that much to the -westward of its true position.” - - -SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE HARBOR OF SIMODA. - -BY LIEUTENANT WM. L. MAURY, U. S. NAVY. - - U. S. STEAM-FRIGATE MISSISSIPPI, - _Honolulu_, October 26, 1854. - -Vessels bound to the harbor of Simoda, to the southward and westward, -should make Cape Idzu, from which Rock island bears E. S. E. ¼ E., -distant about five miles; and if the weather is at all clear, the chain -of islands at the entrance of the gulf of Yedo will at the same time be -plainly visible. - -Between Rock island and the main land, there are a number of rocks -awash and above water, among which the Japanese junks freely pass, but -a ship should not attempt a passage inside of Rock island, unless in -case of urgent necessity, particularly as the northeasterly current, -which sweeps along this coast, seems to be, at this point, capricious, -both in direction and velocity. - -Giving Rock island a berth of a mile, the harbor of Simoda will be in -full view, bearing N. ¼ W., distant five miles. - -Vandalia Bluff, on the east side of the entrance, may be recognised -by a grove of pine-trees on the summit of the bluff, and the village -of Susaki, which lies about one third of the way between it and Cape -Diamond. Cape Diamond is a sharp point making out to the eastward of -the entrance of the harbor. - -Standing in from Rock island, you will probably pass through a number -of tide rips, but not get soundings with the hand lead, until near -the entrance of the harbor, when you will be in from fourteen to -twenty-seven fathoms. - -Should the wind be from the northward and fresh, a vessel should anchor -at the mouth of the harbor until it lulls or shifts, or until she can -conveniently warp in, as it is usually flawy and always baffling. - -Approaching from the northward and eastward, a vessel can pass on -either side of Oho Sima, from the centre, of which Cape Diamond bears -W. S. W. ¾ W., distant about twenty miles. - -Between Oho Sima and Simoda no dangers are known to exist; but the -northeasterly current must be borne constantly in mind—particularly -at night and in thick weather. Its general strength is from two to -three miles per hour; but as this, as well as its direction, is much -influenced by the local wind, headlands, islands, &c., neither can be -relied upon. - -Should Oho Sima be obscured by thick weather, before reaching Cape -Diamond, endeavor to sight Rock island, for there are no very -conspicuous objects on the main land, by which a stranger can recognise -the harbor at a distance, and the shore appears as one unbroken line. - -To the westward of the harbor there are several sand beaches, and three -or four sand banks, These can be plainly discerned when within six or -eight miles, and are good landmarks. - -A vessel from the southward and eastward should pass to the westward -of the island of Kozu Sima,[4] which may be known by a remarkable -snow-white cliff on its western side. There is also a white patch on -its summit, to the northward of the cliff. From this island the harbor -bears N. by W. ½ W., distant about twenty-eight miles. - - [4] This is the most southwestern island of the chain of islands lying - off the Gulf of Yedo. - -There are but two hidden dangers in the harbor; the first is the -Southampton rock, which lies in mid-channel, bearing N. ½ W. from -Vandalia bluff, about three fourths of the way between it and Centre -island. This rock is about twenty-five feet in diameter, and has two -fathoms water upon it. It is marked by a white spar-buoy. - -The second is the Supply rock. Bearing S. by W., a short distance from -Buisako islet, and is a sharp rock, with eleven feet water upon it. Its -position is designated by a red spar-buoy. - -Both of these buoys are securely moored, and the authorities of Simoda -have promised to replace them, should they by any cause be removed. - -Centre island, which receives its name from being the point from which -the treaty limits are measured, is high, conical, and covered with -trees. A cave passes entirely through it. - -In the outer roads, or mouth of the harbor, a disagreeable swell is -sometimes experienced; but inside of the Southampton rock and Centre -island, vessels are well sheltered, and the water comparatively smooth. -Moor with an open hawse to the southward and westward. - -There are good landings for boats in Simoda creek, and at the village -of Kakizaki. - -A harbor-master and three pilots have been appointed; wood, water, -fish, fowls, and eggs, also sweet potatoes and other vegetables may -be procured from the authorities. It is necessary to supply them with -casks to bring the water off. - - Latitude Centre island 34° 39′ 49″ N. - Longitude ” ” 138° 57′ 50″ E. - Variation 52′ westerly. - High Water, F. and C 5 hours. - Extreme rise of tide 5 ft. 7 in. - Mean ” ” 3 ft. - -To make the foregoing directions more easily comprehended, they -have been rendered as concise as possible, but to furnish further -information to navigators bound to, or passing the port, the following -additional remarks are appended:— - -The harbor of Simoda is near the southeastern extremity of the -peninsula of Idzu, which terminates at the cape of that name. To the -northward of the harbor, a high ridge intersects the peninsula, and -south of this, all the way to the cape, it is broken by innumerable -peaks of less elevation. - -The harbor bears S. W. by W. from Cape Sagami, at the entrance of Yedo -bay, distant about 45 miles. - -Rock island is about 120 feet high, and a third of a mile in length, -with precipitous shores and uneven outlines. It has a thick matting of -grass, weeds, moss, &c., on the top. - -From the summit of this island overfalls were seen, bearing N. ½ W., -distant a mile, or mile and a half. These may have been caused by a -rock or reef. An attempt was made to find it, but the strong current -and fresh wind prevented a satisfactory examination. The Japanese -fishermen, however, deny the existence of any such danger. - -N. by W. from Rock island, distant 2 miles, are the Ukona rocks. These -are two rocks, though they generally appear as one. The largest is -about 70 feet high. Between these and Rock island, the current was -found setting east-northeasterly, fully four miles an hour. - -Centre island bears from Rock island N. ½ E., distant 5½ miles, and -from Ukona rocks N. by E. ½ E., distant 3½ miles. - -Buisako islet lies N. N. E. from Centre island. It is about 40 feet -high, and covered with trees and shrubs. - -Should the buoy on Southampton rock be removed, the east end of Centre -island on with the west end of Buisako, will clear the rock to the -westward. - -Off the village of Susaki, and distant one third of a mile from the -shore, is a ledge of rocks, upon which the surf is always breaking; -give them a berth of two cables in passing. - -Approaching from the eastward, the harbor will not open until you get -well inside of Cape Diamond. - -To the northward of Cape Diamond is the bay of Sirahama, which is quite -deep, and as it has also several sand-beaches, it may be mistaken for -Simoda; but as you approach this bay, Cape Diamond will shut in the -Ukona rocks, and Rock island to the southward; while in the Simoda -roads they are visible from all points. - - Cape Idzu, latitude 34° 36′ 03″ N. - ” ” longitude 138° 52′ 32″ E. - Rock Island, latitude 34° 34′ 20″ N. - ” ” longitude 138° 57′ 10″ E. - -S. W. ½ W. from Kozu-Sima, distant about 20 miles, and south, a little -westerly, from Cape Idzu, distant about 40 miles, there are two patches -of dangerous rocks, 15 or 20 feet high, which have been named Redfield -rocks. They are in—Latitude 33° 56′ 13″ N., Longitude 138° 48′ 31″ -E.; and Latitude 33° 57′ 31″ N., Longitude 138° 49′ 13″ E. - -These positions may not be strictly correct, but it is believed they -are not much out of the way. - - Several errors in the first edition of these directions, published in - July last, have been corrected in the above.—W. L. M. - - -SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR YEDO. - -BY LIEUT. WM. L. MAURY, U. S. N. - -Vessels from the southward, bound to this bay, should pass up to the -westward of the chain of islands lying off the gulf of Yedo, and are -cautioned against mistaking the deep bight of Kawatsu bay for the -entrance of Uraga channel, for on the northeast side of this bay there -is a ledge of rocks several miles from the shore, bearing from Cape -Sagami about W. N. W., distant ten miles, upon which one of the vessels -of our squadron grounded. A stranger without a correct chart would -naturally make this mistake, as the opening of the channel is not seen -at a distance from this quarter, the shore appearing as an unbroken -line. - -The entrance to the channel bears from the centre of Oho-Sima N. E. by -N., distant about twenty miles. Stand in upon this line, and the Saddle -hill to the northward of Cape Sagami will be readily recognised, as -well as the round black knob on the eastern side of the channel. On -approaching Uraga, the Plymouth rocks will be plainly seen; give these -a berth of half a mile to clear the Ingersoll Patch, a sunken rock with -but one fathom on it, and which is the only known danger in the channel. - -Between Plymouth rocks and Cape Kami-Saki, the ground is clear and the -anchorage good, if care be taken to get pretty well in, so as to avoid -the strong tides which sweep round the latter with great rapidity. A -spit makes out a short distance to the southward of Kami-Saki; but to -the northward of the cape, the shore is bold, and the water very deep. - -On rounding Cape Kami-Saki, if bound for the city of Yedo, steer N. W. -by N., until Perry island bears S. by W. ¾ W., so as to clear Saratoga -spit, which extends well out from the eastern shore; then haul up, -keeping Perry island upon this bearing until the beacon on the low -point to the southward of Yedo bears W. N. W. This clears the shoal off -the point, and here there is good anchorage in about ten fathoms water, -in full view of the city of Yedo. - -At this point our survey terminated; the boats, however, found a clear -channel, with plenty of water for the largest vessels, several miles -farther to the northward, and within a few miles of the city. - -If bound to the American anchorage, from Cape Kami-Saki, steer N. W., -and anchor in eight or ten fathoms water, with Perry island bearing -S. S. E., and Webster island S. W. by S. - -To the southward of Webster island there is also good anchorage in six -and seven fathoms. Near this anchorage, there are two snug coves, very -accessible, in which vessels may conveniently repair and refit. - -Susquehanna bay, three miles W. N. W. from Cape Kami-Saki, is well -sheltered, but it contains a number of reefs and rocks, and is -therefore not recommended as an anchorage. - -Mississippi bay is four miles north of the American anchorage; it -is well sheltered from the prevailing winds. Upon anchoring it is -necessary to give the shore a wide berth, to avoid a shoal which -extends out from half to three quarters of a mile. The conspicuous -headland, or long yellow bluff, on the north side of this bay, is -called Treaty point; a shoal surrounds the point from two thirds of a -mile to a mile distant. - -Between the American anchorage and Treaty point, the soundings are -irregular, shoaling suddenly from twelve to five fathoms on a bank of -hard sand. - -To the northward of Treaty point, and N. N. W. from Cape Kami-Saki, -distant fourteen miles, is Yokuhama bay. To reach this anchorage, bring -the wooded bluff which terminates the high land on the north side of -the bay to bear N. by W. ½ W., and steer for it until Treaty point -bears S. W. by S.—(this clears the spit off the point); then haul up -about N. W. by N. for the bluff over the town of Kanagawa, and anchor -in five and a half or six fathoms, with the Haycock just open to the -eastward of Mandarin bluff. Mandarin is the steep bluff a mile to the -northward of Treaty point. - -A flat extends out from the northern shore of this bay, between -Kanagawa and Beacon point from one to two miles; off Mandarin bluff -there is also a shoal extending a mile to the northward. - -The bay of Yedo is about twelve miles wide, and thirty deep, with -excellent holding-ground, and capable of sheltering the fleets of the -world. - -Our survey embraced the western shore only, from Cape Kami-Saki to -Beacon point. We had no opportunity of examining the eastern side. -The soundings from Treaty point across in an E. S. E. direction are -regular, and three fathoms were found about a mile and a half from the -opposite shore. - -Of Uraga channel, a reconnoissance was made of the western shore only. - -During our stay in the bay, from the 17th February to the 18th April, -the weather was generally fine, being occasionally interrupted by -strong winds and heavy rain. The gales came up suddenly from the -southward and westward with a low barometer, and continued for a short -time, when the wind hauled round to the northward and westward, and -moderated. We had no easterly blows; in fact, the wind was rarely from -this quarter, except when hauling round from the northward (as it -invariably did) by east to the southward and westward. - -The tide is quite strong out in the bay; and off the tail of Saratoga -spit, Perry island, and Cape Kami-Saki, its velocity is much increased. -But at the anchorage in the bay of Yokuhama it was scarcely felt. At -Yokuhama the Japanese, authorities supplied us with wood and water, and -a few vegetables, fowls, eggs, oysters, and clams. - - Latitude, Cape Sagami 35° 06′ 30″ - Longitude, ” 139° 40′ - Latitude, Webster Island 35° 18′ 30″ - Longitude, ” ” 139° 40′ 34″ - Latitude of Treaty building, north end of - Yokuhama 35° 26′ 44″ - Longitude, ” ” 139° 40′ 23″ - Variation 25′ westerly. - High Water, F. and C 6 hours. - Rise and fall at Yokuhama 6 feet. - - -SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE PORT OF HAKODADI. - -BY LIEUTENANT WM. L. MAURY, U. S. N. - - UNITED STATES STEAM-FRIGATE MISSISSIPPI, - AT SEA, _July 20, 1854_. - -This splendid and beautiful bay, which for accessibility and safety is -one of the finest in the world, lies on the north side of the straits -of Sangar, which separate the Japanese islands of Nippon and Yeso, and -about midway between Cape SirijaSaki[5] (the N. E. point of Nippon), -and the city of Matsmai. It bears from the cape N. W. ½ W., distant -about 45 miles, and is about 4 miles wide at the entrance, and 5 miles -deep. - - [5] Saki, in the Japanese language, means Cape, consequently it should - more properly be called Cape Sirija; but to prevent mistakes it has - been thought advisable to adopt the Japanese names. - -The harbor is the southeastern arm of the bay, and is completely -sheltered, with regular soundings and excellent holding ground. It is -formed by a bold-peaked promontory, standing well out from the high -land of the main, with which it is connected by a low sandy isthmus, -and which, appearing at a distance as an island, may be easily -recognised. - -The town is situated on the northeast slope of the promontory, facing -the harbor, and contains about 6,000 inhabitants. - -Approaching from the eastward, after passing Cape Suwu Kubo, named on -our chart Cape Blunt, which is a conspicuous headland 12 miles E. by S. -from the town, the junks at anchor in the harbor will be visible over -the low isthmus. - - -FOR ENTERING THE HARBOR. - -Rounding the promontory of Hakodadi, and giving it a berth of a mile, -to avoid the calms under the high land, steer for the sharp peak of -Komaga daki, bearing about N., until the east peak of the Saddle, -bearing about N. E. by N., opens to the westward of the round knob on -the side of the mountain, then haul up to the northward and eastward, -keeping them open until the centre of the sandhills on the isthmus -bears S. E. by E. ¾ E.; these may be recognised by the dark knolls -upon them. This will clear a spit which makes out from the northwestern -point of the town in a north-northwesterly direction two thirds of -a mile; then bring the sandhills a point on the port bow, and stand -in until the northwestern point of the town bears S. W. ½ W., when -you will have the best berth, with 5½ or 6 fathoms water. If it is -desirable to get nearer in, haul up a little to the eastward of S., for -the low rocky peak which will be just visible over the sloping ridge to -the southward and eastward of the town. A vessel of moderate draught -may approach within a quarter of a mile of Tsuki point, where there -is a building-yard for junks. This portion of the harbor, however, is -generally crowded with vessels of this description; and, unless the -want of repairs, or some other cause, renders a close berth necessary, -it is better to remain outside. - -If the Peak or Saddle is obscured by clouds or fog, after doubling the -promontory, steer N. by E. ½ E., until the sandhills are brought upon -the bearing above given, when proceed as there directed. - -A short distance from the tail of the spit is a detached sandbank, -with 3½ fathoms on it. The outer edge of this is marked by a white -spar-buoy. Between this and the spit there is a narrow channel with 5 -or 6 fathoms water. Vessels may pass on either side of the buoy, but it -is most prudent to go to the northward of it. - -Should the wind fail before reaching the harbor, there is good -anchorage in the outer roads, in from 25 to 10 fathoms. - -Excellent wood and water may be procured from the authorities of the -town; or, if preferred, water can be easily obtained from Kamida creek, -which enters the harbor to the northward and eastward of the town. - -The season, at the time of our visit, was unfavorable for procuring -supplies; a few sweet and Irish potatoes, eggs, and fowls, however, -were obtained, and these articles, at a more favorable period of the -year, will no doubt be furnished in sufficient quantities to supply any -vessels that may in future visit the port. - -Our seine supplied us with fine salmon and a quantity of other fish, -and the shores of the bay abound with excellent shellfish. - -During our stay in this harbor, from the 17th May to 3d June, the -weather was generally pleasant until the 1st June, when the fog set in. -It was usually calm in the morning, but toward the middle of the day a -brisk breeze from S. W. sprung up. - - Latitude, mouth of Kamida creek 41° 49′ 22″ N. - Longitude, ” ” ” 140° 47′ 45″ E. - Variation 4° 30′ W. - High Water, F. and C 5 hours. - Extreme rise and fall of tide 3 feet. - -Our chronometers were rated at Napa Kiang, Loo-Choo, from the position -of that place as given by Captain Beechy, R. N. - - -THE CURRENCY QUESTION. - -[In the text is given an account of the negotiations relative to the -comparative value of the American and Japanese coin. It is thought -as well to give the report of the pursers appointed to arrange the -question, which will be found below.] - - UNITED STATES STEAM-FRIGATE POWHATAN, - SIMODA, _June 15, 1854_. - -SIR: The committee appointed by you, in your letter of the 12th -instant, to confer with a committee from the Japanese commissioners in -reference to the rate of exchange and currency between the two nations -in the trade at the ports opened, and to settle the price of coal to be -delivered at this port, beg leave to report:— - -The Japanese committee, it was soon seen, came to the conference with -their minds made up to adhere to the valuation they had already set -upon our coins, even if the alternative was the immediate cessation -of trade. The basis upon which they made their calculation was the -nominal rate at which the government sells bullion when it is purchased -from the mint, and which seems also to be that by which the metal -is received from the mines. The Japanese have a decimal system of -weight, like the Chinese, of catty, tael, mace, candareen, and cash, -by which articles in general are weighed; but gold and silver are not -reckoned above taels. In China a tael of silver in weight and one in -currency are the same, for the Chinese have no silver coin; but in -Japan, as in European countries, the standard of value-weight and -that of currency-weight differ. We were told that a tael weight of -silver has now come to be reckoned, when it is bullion, as equal to -225 candareens, or 2 taels, 2 mace, 5 candareens; but when coined, the -same amount in weight is held to be worth 6 taels, 4 mace. It is at the -bullion value that the government has decided to receive our dollar, -the same at which they take the silver from the mines; asserting that, -as its present die and assay give it no additional value, it is worth -no more to them. In proportion to a tael, a dollar weighs 7 mace, 1 1-5 -candareen, which, at the rates of bullion value, makes it worth 1 tael, -6 mace, or 1,600 cash. Thus the Japanese government will make a profit -of 66-2/3 per cent. on every dollar paid them of full weight, with the -trifling deduction of the expense of recoining it. The injustice of -this arrangement was shown, and the propriety of paying to the seller -himself the coin we gave at this depreciated rate urged, but in vain. - -For gold the rate is more, as the disparity between the value of -bullion and that of coin, among the Japanese, is not so great. A -tael weight of gold is valued at 19 taels in currency, and a mace at -1 tael, 9 mace. The gold dollar weighs almost 5 candareens, but the -Japanese have reckoned it as the twentieth part of a $20 piece, which -they give as 8 mace, 8 candareens; and, consequently, the dollar is -only 4 candareens, 4 cash. This weight brings the gold dollar, when -compared with the tael of bullion gold worth 19 taels, to be worth 836 -cash, and the $20 piece to be worth 16,720 cash, or 16 taels, 7 mace, -2 candareens. This, when converted into a silver value, makes a gold -dollar worth 52¼ cents, and a $20 piece worth $10 45, at which the -Japanese propose to take them. But this valuation of the gold dollar -at 52¼ cents, when reckoned at 836 cash, its assessed value by the -Japanese government, suffers the same depreciation as our silver; and -its real value, when compared with the inflated currency in use among -the people, is only about 17¼ cents. Consequently, by this estimate, -gold becomes 50 per cent. worse for us to pay in than silver. The -currency value of a gold dollar, taking the its-evoo as of equal -purity, and comparing them weight for weight, is only 1,045 cash, or -nearly 22 cents in silver; so that the actual depreciation on the part -of the Japanese is not so great as silver—being for the two metals, -when weighed with each other, for silver as 100 to 33-1/3, and for gold -as 22 to 17. The elements of this comparison are not quite certain, -and therefore its results are somewhat doubtful; but the extraordinary -discrepancy of both metals, compared with our coins and with their own -copper coins, shows how the government has inflated the whole monetary -system in order to benefit itself. - -The parties could come to no agreement, as we declined to consent to -the proposals of the Japanese, who were decided to adhere to their -valuation of a silver dollar at 1 tael, 6 mace, or 1,600 cash; neither -would they consent to do justly by us in relation to the moneys paid -them at this place before our departure for Hakodadi, at the rate of -only 1 tael, 2 mace, or 1,200 cash, to the dollar, by which they had -made a profit of 76 per cent. on each dollar, stating that the money -paid them at this rate had passed out of their hands; and, moreover, -that the prices placed upon the articles furnished had been charged at -reduced prices with reference to the low value placed upon the dollar. - -For the amount due and unsettled, for supplies received at Yokuhama, -and on account of which Purser Eldredge paid Moriyama Yenoske, imperial -interpreter, $350 in gold and silver, that they might be assayed and -tested at Yedo, they consent to receive the dollar at the valuation -now placed on them—that is, at the rate of 1,600 cash for the silver -dollar. - -We carefully investigated the price of the coal to be delivered to -vessels in this port. We learn that 10,000 catties or 100 piculs have -arrived; and this, at the rate of 1,680 catties to a ton of 2,240 -pounds, or 16 4-5 piculs, costs 262 taels, 6 mace, 5 candareens, 3 -cash, or $164 16; making the rate to be $27 91 per ton. The Japanese -state that the price of coal would be considerably reduced as the -demand for it increased, and their facilities for mining became more -perfect. - -In conclusion, we take pleasure in expressing our thanks to -Messrs. Williams and Portman, whose services as interpreters were -indispensable, and from whom we received important aid in our -investigations. - -We have the honor to be, respectfully, your obedient servants, - - WILLIAM SPEIDEN, - _Purser U. S. Navy_. - - J. C. ELDREDGE, - _Purser U. S. Navy_. - - Commodore M. C. PERRY, - _Commander-in-Chief U. S. Naval Forces - in the East India and China Seas_. - - -TABLE OF JAPANESE DISTANCES. - - Twenty-eight and one fifth Ree, make one degree. - One Ree is equal to thirty-six Tsho. - One Tsho is equal to sixty Ken. - One Ken is equal to one Meter, and nine hundred and nine thousandth of - a meter. - - A Meter is about 39⅓ inches. - - -_Japanese Measurement of the Heights of Foogee Yama._ - - Thirty-six Streets. - One Street, sixty Ikis. - One Iki, six Fans.[6] - Six Fans, five American feet. - - [6] The fans used by the officials of Japan, are of a uniform size, - and regulated by custom. - - -THE END. - - - - -POETRY AND THE DRAMA. - - - The Works of Shakespeare, reprinted from the newly-discovered copy - of the Folio of 1632, in the possession of J. PAYNE COLLIER, with - numerous Illustrations. One vol. Imperial 8vo. 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Japan and around the -world, by J. W. (J. Willett) Spalding - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Japan expedition. Japan and around the world - An account of three visits to the Japanese empire, with - sketches of Madeira, St. Helena, cape of Good Hope, - Mauritius, Ceylon, Singapore, China, and Loo-Choo - -Author: J. W. (J. Willett) Spalding - -Release Date: October 1, 2019 [EBook #60403] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE JAPAN EXPEDITION *** - - - - -Produced by MFR, Les Galloway and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="transnote"> -<h3> Transcriber’s Notes</h3> - -<p>Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. Variations -in hyphenation have been standardised but all other spelling and -punctuation remains unchanged. -</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<div class="figcenter" > -<img src="images/i_frontis.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">JAPANESE.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p class="center"> -<span class="u">THE JAPAN EXPEDITION</span></p> - -<h1>JAPAN<br /> - -<span class="xs">AND</span><br /> - -<small>AROUND THE WORLD</small></h1> - -<p class="center xs">AN ACCOUNT OF</p> - -<p class="center">THREE VISITS TO THE JAPANESE EMPIRE</p> - -<p class="center"><span class="xs">WITH SKETCHES OF</span><br /> - -<span class="small">MADEIRA, ST. HELENA, CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, MAURITIUS, -CEYLON, SINGAPORE, CHINA, AND LOO-CHOO</span></p> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">By</span> J. W. SPALDING<br /> - -<span class="xs">OF THE U. S. STEAM-FRIGATE MISSISSIPPI, FLAG SHIP OF THE EXPEDITION</span></p> - -<p class="center small">WITH EIGHT ILLUSTRATIONS IN TINT</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_title.jpg" alt="Publisher's Symbol" /> -</div> - -<p class="center">REDFIELD<br /> -<small>34 BEEKMAN STREET, NEW YORK<br /> -1855.</small></p> - - - -<div class="bt bb"> -<p class="center"><span class="xs"> -Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1855,<br /> -<span class="smcap">By</span> J. S. REDFIELD,<br /> -in the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States, in and for the<br /> -Southern District of New York.</span></p></div> - -<div class="bt bb"> -<p><span class="xs"> -SAVAGE & M<sup>c</sup>CREA, STEREOTYPERS,<br /> -13 Chambers Street, N. Y.</span></p></div> - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - - -<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE">PREFACE.</a></h2> - - -<p>The kindness and courtesy of that fine officer and -estimable gentleman, Commander Sydney Smith Lee, -in conferring upon the writer a position on the ship -under his command, gave him the opportunity of seeing -the “wonders of the world abroad,” in the Japan -Expedition.</p> - -<p>The following pages do not profess to be a history -of Japan, of which there are already a number extant, -but only embody observations of what came under -notice, in a cruise of nearly two and a half years. -They do not pretend to invariable accuracy, the writer -having kept no journal, and having had to depend -on scattered memoranda, jottings down to friends, and -to memory. He has endeavored to tell the tale of his -travels, as his eyes told it to him.</p> - -<p>He has indulged in no adjectives about the ocean, -because he believes that there has been more deliberate -nonsense written upon it, than upon any other -thing in all Nature.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Richmond, Va., 1855.</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">5</span></p> - - - - -<h2 id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS.</h2> - - -<div class="center small"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Leave the United States—“Old Ironsides” Mississippi—A Man-of-War -at Night—Gulf Stream—Music—First Foreign Land—The -Washerwomen—Funchal—Its Harbor—Cavalleros—The Wine—A -Consul—<i>Nossa Senhora do Monte</i>—The Coral—A Hospital—A -Prison—Dago Pauperism—Donna Clementina—Good-by, Madeira</td> -<td class="tdrb"><span class="xs">PAGE</span><span class="gap2">8</span></td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">At Sea again—The Canaries—The “Trades,” Incipient and Real—Man-of-War -Existence—Drills—Running down the “Trades”—Small-Pox—Christmas -that was not Christmas—First General Order -issued—Under Steam again—Man Overboard—Crossing the -Line—Arrival at the Ocean-Prison—St. Helena—Hot January—Reverberation—Slavers—James’ -Town—A View from a Summit—Tomb -of the Great Emperor—Jonathan—To Longwood—The New -House—Plantation House—A Bust of Napoleon—Departure from -St. Helena</td> - <td class="tdrb">27</td> -</tr> - - -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Cape of Good Hope—Shadows—Cape Town—Sights in the Street—Drive -to Constantia—The Wine—Kaffir War—Botanical—Leave -Cape Town—The Birkenhead—Cattle at Sea—Anti-Scorbutic—St. -Valentine’s Day, and the “Styx”—The Indian Ocean</td> - <td class="tdrb">45</td> -</tr> - - -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Isle of France—John Bull under a Torrid Sun—Port Louis and its -Bazar—Different Races and Religions—In the Country at Mauritius—John -Chinaman—Pamplemouses—Paul and Virginia—A -Botanical Garden—Reality as well as Romance—Hurricanes—History -of the Island—The “22d”—Fruits—Leave Mauritius—Difference -of Time</td> - <td class="tdrb">56 -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">6</span></td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">“Light, Ho!”—Ceylon’s Spicy Breezes, and Sir John Mandeville—Point -de Galle—Ceylonese Troops—d’honies—The Natives—Walled -Town—Sandal Shoon and Mohammedan Temple and -School—Greek Slaves in Bronze—Hirsute and Citronella—Priessnitz’ -Doings—Pigeon Express—Ceylon Historically—A Siamese -Captain—Departure from Point de Galle—Bay of Bengal—Straits -of Malacca—Pulo-Penang—The Cleopatra—Letters—Anchor at -Singapore—Malay Boats—The East by Anticipation—Junks—Gong-Beating—The -Esplanade—Malay Houses—Sago—Hospitals—Joss-House—Prison—Rajah -of Johore—Leave Singapore—First -of April—Intense Heat—Cathay—Macao-Hong Kong—Salute -of Welcome—Oriental Salute</td> - <td class="tdrb">64</td> -</tr> - - -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Macao—The <i>Donna Maria</i>—Cathedrals and Forts—Camoens—An -English Missionary—Death of the Governor—Fast and Tanka Boats—Bocca -Tigris—Clipper-Ships and Junks—Chartering a Tender—First -of May—The Yang-tse-kiang—Agriculture and the Chinese—Shanghai -and the Bund—The Missionaries—Sing-Song—Gambling—Dead -Beggars—Nautical Dramatics—The Shanghae Races—Shifting -the Flag—Supply Ashore—Wreck of a Junk—Bring the -Crew of the Junk Aboard—Left for Loo-Choo</td> - <td class="tdrb">87</td> -</tr> - - -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Great Loo-Choo Island—General Orders—Outer Door of the Hermetic -Empire—Historic Outline of the Loo-Choo Islands—Approach to -them—Loo-Chooan Simplicity—Dress—Bettelheim—Napa—Language—Foreign -Graves—Horse-Portage—The Prince Regent—To -Sheudi—Feast—International Sentiment—Sheudi-Cyclopean Masonry—“Old -Napa”—Bonin Group—Return to Napa—First Visit -to Japan—“<i>The</i> Fourth” on the Sea—A Meteor</td> - <td class="tdrb">100</td> -</tr> - - -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Cipango—Japan an “Unknown Land”—Works on Japan-Kœmpfer—Japanese -Mythology—Geography—History—Japanese “John -Doe”—Napoleon No. III. of the Mongols—Kublai-Khan—European -Intercourse—English Views about the Opening of Japan</td> - <td class="tdrb">132</td> -</tr> - - -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Sounding-Spars—<i>Foogee Yama</i>—Entrance to the Bay of Yedo—Precautionary -Measures—Uraga—Troops—“Old Hundred”—Sounding—Yezimon—Gorihama—<i>The</i> -Landing—Joust or Tourney—Audience—President’s Letter—Anecdotal—Fortifications—Sounding—Japanese -Presents—Costume—Junks—Leave Japan—A -Burial at Sea—A Cyclone—Loo-Choo </td> - <td class="tdrb">143 -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">7</span></td> -</tr> - - -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">China—The Rebellion—Hong Hospitality—Blenheim Reach—Torrid—Consular -Courts—Canton—Feast of the Lanterns—Howqua’s -Garden—Sallie Baboos—Cum-sing-Moon—Death of an Officer—Opium -Hulks—The Traffic—Effects of Opium—Its Sale—Smuggling—Emperor -of Japan Dead—Loss of Boat’s Crew of the Plymouth—The -American Commissioner—Around the Walls of Canton—Chance -for a Wife—Temple of Honan—Hong Kong </td> - <td class="tdrb">176</td> -</tr> - - -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Leave China for Second Visit to Japan—Formosa—Napa-Keang—A -Refugee not a Koszta—Proselyting—Dr. Bettelheim and a Loo-Chooan -Sangrado—Coal Dépôt—Sheudi—Cumshaws—Off for the -Bay of Yedo—Dangerous Navigation—Snow—Macedonian Ashore -Foogee Yama—Bay of Yedo—Where to Negotiate—22d of February—Japanese -Boats—Visiters—Japanese at Dinner—Swords—Aversion -to the Cross—The Landing—The Commissioners—The -Audience—Answer to the President’s Letter—A Japanese Repast—Their -Troops—“T’su-bi-ki”—Coal—A Christian Burial in Japan—American -Presents—An Ericsson Two Centuries Ago—A Chaplain—Negotiations—Japanese -Presents—Athletes—Entertainment -of Japanese Commissioners—Signing of the Treaty—Yezimon—Attempt -to reach Yedo—The “Happy Despatch”—Emperor in -Disguise—Leave Bay of Yedo for Simoda</td> - <td class="tdrb">204</td> -</tr> - - -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Simoda or Lower Field—Surveying—Japanese Spies—Temples—Sintooism—Another -Pilgrim’s Progress—A Night’s Lodging—Bargaining—Japanese -Women—Indiscriminate Bathing—Turtle Soup—An -Adventure—Buddhist Temple—Midnight Visiters—In a -Cage—Japanese Epistolarians—A Great Secret—Defences—Foogee -Yama</td> - <td class="tdrb">264</td> -</tr> - - -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Departure for Hakodadi—Ohosima—Printing at Sea—Straits of Sangar—Arrive -at Hakodadi—Magnificent Bay—The City—A Stampede—Interview -with the Authorities—Arranging the Currency—Purchasing—A -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">8</span>Large Temple—Bonzes—Worshipping—Order of -the Blind—A View from Hakodadi Yama—A Lion Playing Painter—Ni! -Ni!—A Fort—Burials from the Vandalia—Japanese and -Ethiopics—Arrival of Functionaries—Characteristic Communications—Hakodadi -Eggs—Leave Hakodadi—Fog </td> - <td class="tdrb">292</td> -</tr> - - -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Foogee—Return to Simoda—Additional Regulations—Veneration for -Iyeyas—The Dutch at Desima—Japanese Princes and Mercantile -Pursuits—Russia a Bugbear—The Currency Question—The Monetary -System of Japan—Buoys—Sample of Coal—Stones for the -Washington Monument—Taste for Music—Things by Lottery—Japanese -Lacquer and Porcelain—Tea—Japanese Game of Chess, -or “Sho-ho-ye”—A Second Robinson Crusoe—Leave Japan for -China—Macedonian to Keelong and Manilla—Island of Oo—A -Strange sail acting strangely—In Napa Roadstead—Man Deservedly -killed—His Highness the Prince-Regent—Russian Admiral -Pontiatine—Sermons on Shipboard—The Status of Loo-Choo—Compact -with Loo-Choo—Boom-a-Laddying with a Broad Pennant—Great -Pomp in our Institutions—Farewell to Loo-Choo</td> - <td class="tdrb">312</td> -</tr> - - -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Hong Kong Again—Letters—The Intestine Troubles—Triangulating -between Hong-Kong, Macao, and Whampoa—The Rebels—Chinese -Fighting—An Emperor’s Proclamation—Preparations for the Departure -of the American Opperbevelhebber—Daybook and Ledger -Epistolarians—A Title—Protection—A Jollyboat Steamer—Erudition -about Columbus, De Gama, and Others—A Letter from His -Excellency Perry—Syce Silver Service—More Mercantile Epistolarians -and Parvenuism—No Treaty of Commerce with Japan—Name -Great among the Heathen—Departure of Opperbevelhebber -in the English Mail-Steamer—Mississippi’s Third Visit to Japan—The -Last of the “Porpoise”—Arrive at Simoda again—Official Intercourse -of Captain Lee with the Authorities—Courtesies—Its-evoos -and a Revolver—The Ship Ho-o-maro—Cotton Cloths distributed—Chances -of a Trade with Japan—Final Departure from the Country—Supplemental—Exchange -of Ratifications of the Treaty—Simoda -after an Earthquake—Loss of the Russian Frigate Diana—The Inexorable -Laws of Japan—English and French at Nangasaki—The -Cruise of the Mississippi around the World</td> - <td class="tdrb">345</td> -</tr> - - -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap"><a href="#APPENDIX">Appendix</a></span></td> - <td class="tdr">363</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">9</span></p> - - - - -<p class="half-title">THE<br /> - -JAPAN EXPEDITION.</p> - - - -<hr class="small" /> -<h2 id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</h2> - - -<p>The cruel treatment which had long been practised -by that singular and secluded people, the Japanese, -toward American whalers who were thrown by the -misfortune of shipwreck upon their coasts, the incentive -of mercantile cupidity, and the urgency of -personal ambition, induced the government of the -United States, in 1852, to project an expedition to -Japan, to obtain some assurance from the government -of the country against a continuance or repetition of -the inhospitality and cruelty inflicted upon our unfortunate -citizens, and, if possible, to open the sources -of trade. The East India squadron was accordingly -augmented for this purpose, and Commodore Matthew -Calbraith Perry was invested with the command, -and charged with the performance of the duty.</p> - -<p>After almost conjugating delay in all its moods -and tenses, induced by the failure of the boilers of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">10</span> -the unfortunate “Princeton,” and other causes, his -flag-ship was ready for sea in November, 1852; and -on the 24th of this month and year, with a desire to -visit the hermetic empire, whetted by reading the -Dutch historians, I found myself, as commander’s -clerk, on board of her. At mid-day we had dropped, -not below the “kirk or hill,” but below the hospital -at Norfolk, and night found us ploughing deeply the -ocean in the direction of Madeira; and before a very -late hour the gleams from the Cape Henry lighthouse -disappeared altogether.</p> - -<p>The ship was the old steam-frigate “Mississippi,” -which, as her name is a synonyme for the “father of -waters,” may be termed the father of our war-steamers, -having been the consort of the pioneer ship, the -Missouri, destroyed by fire on her first cruise, under -the rock of Gibraltar. She had been engaged unremittingly -since she first slid from her ways. The power -of her engines had pulled from a reef in the Gulf -a large ship, and saved to the country the fine frigate -Cumberland. The shot and shell from one of her -sixty-eights, in the naval battery at Vera Cruz, had -contributed to the downfall of the castle of San Juan. -She had lain at her anchor near the site of once classic -Athens, and in full view of what now remains of -the once great city of Hannibal. She had once -sought shelter from a Levanter near Brundusium -that was, with its Appian way. Her paddle-wheels -churning up the water of the Black sea, announced<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">11</span> -the first appearance of an American man-of-war in -that stormy water; and on her decks, surrounded by -his late fellows in exile, Kossuth, fresh from the -damp of his Kutahia prison, addressed the seething -populace around in the harbor of Marseilles, with -a fervor and eloquence which almost extenuated so -indefensible a violation of the national hospitality -which our nation was then extending him; and now -the old Mississippi was leaving her own country, -bound to the other side of the great globe, bearing -the hopes of many, and embarked in a mission which -might be successful—which might, perhaps, come to -naught.</p> - -<p>I said she ploughed deeply on getting beyond the -Capes, because, with the considerate intelligence and -humanity which preside over our naval affairs, sending -boxes of guns to sea with national names, bringing -about such sad losses as those of the Albany and the -Porpoise, the Mississippi, designed by her constructor -to draw eighteen feet of water, and to carry four hundred -and fifty tons of coal, has her bunkers enlarged -to the capacity of six hundred tons, additional lines -of copper put upon her, and goes out drawing twenty-one -feet, her guards but a short distance from the -water. In this state we left the United States; her -decks not yet cleared of the stores hastily put aboard -for the different messes; the lengthened visages of -sad people all around, thinking whether they had -omitted anything in their notes of last adieu sent back<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">12</span> -by the Pilot; the mustering and stationing of a new -crew at their division and fire quarters; the making -everything ready for sea, all presented such a novel -scene to one who was on a man-of-war underway for -the first time, that he was too much engrossed in observing, -to tell his “native land good-night,” turning -to do which, he found that it had “faded,” not over -the “waters blue,” but behind an expanse of dull -slate-colored ocean, which the heavy striking of our -deeply-immersed paddles was slowly and drowsily -disturbing. There was none of the graceful undulatory -motion, and bellying out of the great white canvass -of the sailing-ship, which writers of much imagination -and nautical turn of mind, delight so much -to sing about. It was only the sturdy prose of a -warlike old steamer belching from the jaws of her -great funnel columns of thick black smoke, which -separated at her mainmast, or rolled away in dense -masses astern, perversely holding on her way to the -port of her destination. The “loguey” motion of the -ship, while it kept her decks wet from the swashing -of a cross sea over her head rail, at least had the advantage -to a landsman of enabling him to get on his -“sea-legs” all the sooner.</p> - -<p>The scene at night on a man-of-war, is one full of -interest to him who sees it for the first time. The -decks, busily thronged during the day by the men in -the performance of their duties, at an early hour of -the night, with the exception of the watch, are appa<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">13</span>rently -deserted; a number equal to the population -of a small village, crowded close together, swing in -their pendent beds in oblivious sleep, which the exertions -of the day makes more profound, leaving -nothing to disturb the quiet of the vessel, save the -half-hour striking of the ship’s bell, and the quick -responses of the different look-outs assuming their -watchfulness, or the drumming of the wheels as they -send the yesty water along the side.</p> - -<p>In a few days we crossed that great liquid fortification -of our coast—the Gulf-stream—when the temperature -became greatly moderated, our stoves were -taken down, the cloudy skies that we had had disappeared, -and we hailed the sun. The water had -changed from 41° to 71°, the sun came up magnificently -from the ocean, and the air felt like a balmy -spring morning; away off in the southeast floated -piles of clouds like inverted illuminated pearl-shells, -and for the first time since leaving Norfolk, we were -enabled to look upon the <i>deep</i> blue sea, and the blue -deep sea. Then, too, our fine band, composed of -twenty-three brass and reed instruments, discoursed -its most pleasant strains for the first time since we -had been out, under the leadership of a talented old -Italian musician—the only man I ever saw who, with -a nice “ear for music,” kept both of his auriculars -continually stopped with wool.</p> - -<p>The cry of “Land, ho!” on the evening of the 11th -of December, announced our vicinity to Madeira, after<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">14</span> -a rough and lonely passage from the United States -of eighteen days. The weather proving rough, we -wore ship and stood off during the night, and early -in the morning again stood for the island, and it was -not long before we were running under the lee of its -northern side. Madeira at a distance, wrapped in -its hazy robe of blue, presents the appearance of a -huge monster reposing on the water, but running in -under the land, the aspect is far more attractive. -Being the first foreign land on which my eyes had -ever rested, I gazed with increasing pleasure on the -parti-colored soil, on the graceful and silvery cascades -precipitating themselves down its steep shores, -presenting the appearance of tapering spires of -churches, while nestling here and there on the cliffs, -amid thick verdure, were the happy-looking quintas -and farmhouses. Toward evening, leaving the singular -formed rocks “Las Desertas” on our left, we -rounded the northeasternmost point of the island, and -Funchal, in its terraced beauty, came in full view. -We fired a gun and hoisted a jack for a pilot, but we -were permitted to approach without the aid of that -functionary. It being Sunday, perhaps they did not -officiate on that day. Just before sundown we came -to in the harbor, near the Pontinha, and immediately -on anchoring were boarded by the Portuguese health-officer, -who, finding we had no contagious disease -aboard, granted us <i>pratique</i>. The second promptest -visiters to welcome us were the washerwomen, who<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">15</span> -are all eager for the possession of the soiled linen, at -the same time evincing a wonder of recognition and -recollection perfectly satisfactory to themselves, but -not at all convincing to anybody else. One old shrivelled -dame of a laundress insisted that I had visited -the island before, and pretended to adhere to the -opinion with the tenacity of Dolly, in Oliver Twist, -when she called upon the good bystanders to make -her brother go home. This was old Madam Yesus, -and, as my poor battered garments subsequently -proved, she washed “not wisely, but too well.” -They were eminently communicative on general topics, -told us how “mucher pauvre” they were, gave us -the first news of the approaching famine, and to men -who had been tumbling about the ocean for over half -a month, the unsavory intelligence that wine, which -but a short time before could be bought for forty -cents per bottle, could now only be obtained for a -dollar.</p> - -<p>Funchal, from the water, presents a very attractive -appearance to the traveller who sees it for the first -time. I don’t know when I have been more impressed -with the beauty of any scene, than when from -the deck of our ship, with a delicious atmosphere that -obliterated all recollection of the month being December, -a setting sun more keenly defining and causing to -loom up each object, I looked upon its bright houses, -made more so by the deep red of their tiles, as they -rose in a terraced crescent, one above another, the con<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">16</span>vent -of Santa Clara, the deep-hued verdure that filled -up the interstices of the picture, the Loo Rock fort, -and the cathedral in the foreground, with just enough -of time-stain on its towers to make more venerable -its front, and the tortuous paved road, running up the -hills like an immense, stony serpent, terminating at -the church of our “Lady of the Mount,” elevated -nineteen hundred feet above the sea; and the vineyards -in the distance.</p> - -<p>Being an open roadstead, with the wind from a certain -direction a very heavy sea tumbles into the harbor, -and there is at all times a considerable surf breaking -on the beach. On going ashore you have to employ Portuguese -surf-boats, which are much better constructed -for purposes of landing than our own. On either side, -not far from the keel, they have projecting pieces resembling -the side-fins of a dolphin, which gives them -much steadiness in a sea-way, while head and stern -they have perpendicular handles as it were. As they -near the beach, one of the boatmen jumps over into -the water, and, seizing the piece at the prow, keeps -the boat head on, when the succeeding swell sets her -high, if not dry, upon the sand, and you are ashore. -Your way thither may only be delayed a short time, -by the officer contrabandista, who, pulling alongside, -touches his hat, and proceeds, by an inspection of -your boat, to see whether his aquatic countrymen are -not attempting to smuggle ashore such things as soap -and tobacco, which his most gracious sovereign of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">17</span> -Portugal has been pleased to reserve as a government -monopoly. When the weather is rather rough, the -customary place of landing is the Pontinha, a steep -rock terminating an arched causeway, or kind of -breakwater, from which the coal is usually embarked -for the steamers stopping at the island. The scene -presented, or the horrible clamor that salutes your -ears, is not particularly calculated to prolong the -pleasant illusion which the more distant sight of the -place gave you. You no sooner put your foot on the -stone stairs than your winding way of ascent is beset -by innumerable lazzaroni most offensive in habit and -appearance, whose rabid importunities for alms will -not permit you to say them nay. Once through this -crowd of “dago” pauperism—the most squalid and -effete of all pauperism, your movements on the causeway -are impeded by the boisterous calls of the Borro -Querros, with their horses already saddled and bridled -for “gentlemin” to ride. The bellowing guttural of -one fellow provokes your attention to his steed, in -whose praises he is loud, having gotten which, he digs -him in flank, and dashes off over the stony pavement, -to show you his paces. Your charger selected (I -had a weakness in the matter of a fine bay myself,) -the din ceases. Our party, consisting of five or six -well mounted, determined on a gallop to the “Petite -Coral,” calling on the polite and hospitable consul -on our way thither. One peculiarity strikes you on -starting, that is, that your dago friend, of whom you<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">18</span> -obtained your charger, acts as a kind of equerry during -your ride, and the better to enable him to accompany -you, when you are inclined to give your horse -the rein, he seizes that animal by the tail with one -hand, keeping off the flies with a wisp in the other, or -uses it as an accelerator on his haunches, holding on -meanwhile with a grip which the Kirk Alloway witches -would have envied when they brought about that <i>finale</i> -to “poor Maggy.”</p> - -<p>The streets through which we rode were quite narrow, -and enclosed by balconied houses of two stories, -or stuccoed garden walls, over which the graceful -banana leaf bent, or a cornice of beautiful running -flowers was to be seen. From the nearly closed casement -pretty dark eyes peeped down upon you, pretty -I fear, because scarcely any other features were visible. -The native women we met in the street walked -closely veiled, which none who met them desired -to have done away with, if a truant zephyr once -gave a sight of their swarthy faces. Your attention -is attracted by the rather picturesque costume -of the natives, which consists of a loose shirt drawn -at the waist, knee breeches made full, <i>white</i> boots -which are regularly chalked, and on the summit of -their cranium they wear a cap of cloth bearing an -identical resemblance to an apothecary’s glass funnel -inverted. The manner in which the peasants retain -these head coverings in their place, has been as perplexing -to strangers, as how the apple got inside the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">19</span> -dumpling was to England’s sovereign, but considering -the population, it would not be uncharitable to conclude -that the tension is induced by the vacuum in the -noddles they surmount, on the principle of the “sucker” -with which philosophic juveniles raise a brick. The -continued “Boo-ah” resounding in the streets, as the -driver of the sleds with casks upon them spurs up the -two poor little oxen, whom a small boy leads with a -string from the horn, soon convinces you that you are -in the land of the elevating “Tinta,” and generous -“Serchal.” Should the sled drag heavily over the -stones, the small boy throws down in front of it a -wetted cloth, passing over which, the runner is lubricated.</p> - -<p>On reaching the residence of the American consul, -we dismounted and partook of a lunch, which his hospitality -invariably provides for his visiting countrymen. -It is unnecessary to tell with what gusto, men -who eighteen days before were gathered around a -stove in their own land, were now in the genial air of -Madeira, windows open, and perfume coming in all -around from beautiful plants, partook of the rich treat -of guavas, the small banana, and the Mandarin orange -just plucked from the tree that thrust itself in the -casement. The snack over, we ascended to the consul’s -observatory; a fine glass, mounted on a tripod, -swept the offing and anchorage, giving every object -much nearness. Our old ship lying stately at her -anchors, was just saluting with twenty-one guns the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">20</span> -Portuguese flag floating at her fore, which was promptly -returned by the fort on Loo Rock. Around and below -us were patches of green-vine and trellis, amid -an expanse of red tile roofs, on many of which were -placed wine-casks that they might sweeten in the sun. -We then descended to the wine-houses, where butt -after butt of large dimensions, reached by foot ladders, -of Tinta and Serchal, and “Navy,” told how the delightful -grape of the island had swelled into fullness, -and then been crushed into wine. Ah! Clarence, thou -shouldst have lived till now.</p> - -<p>We mounted and started for le Petite Coral, by the -way of the church <i>Nossa Senhora do Monte</i>. The angle -of ascent of the road is over twenty degrees, but the -style of going up is usually to give your horse his head -and his rider’s heel, and if like Putnam’s he dashes -up, racketing it over the stones, and sending back -fire from his heels, why it’s the way. Being bantered -for a dash up by one of my messmates, and my friend -the Borro Querro in the rear not being a party thereto, -I regret to remark, that the last I saw of that respected -individual after the start, he was engaged in -performing some very sudden gyrations proximate to -the roadside hedge. However, a glass of the country -wine, on his joining me at the blowing place, about -half-way up, enabled me to make my entire peace -with him for the suddenness of my leaving. The way -up was lined with vines and dogs, peasant girls and -chapels, mendicants and donkeys, which would knock<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">21</span> -Mr. Laurence Sterne’s sentimental blubber all in the -head. The clatter of the approaching hoofs caused -the dark browed senoritas to “come unto the window,” -but the horses appeared to hurry on the faster for -their presence. The descent of this mountain is generally -made at a rapid pace, on a rude sled, two boys -riding behind and giving it proper direction. The -mode of movement about the streets, is, if a foreigner -and invalid, in a hammock suspended from a pole, -and borne on the shoulders of two men, steadying -themselves as they walk with quarter-staffs; if a native -gentleman in a canopied sled drawn by unsightly -oxen, which <i>quick</i> mode of movement will convey a -very good idea of the enterprise of the people who -employ it.</p> - -<p>But we were on the way to the Church of the Lady -of the Mount. It was not very long before we dismounted -at the foot of the long flight of discolored -stone steps that led to its front. On reaching the -terrace we looked down on the view below us. The -town had dwindled into a white-washed amphitheatre; -the ships were not quite as much changed as the objects -to the sight of Edgar from the cliffs of Dover, -but appeared greatly reduced in proportion. I could -scarcely believe that the Mississippi, riding at her -anchors in the bay, was the floating home of over three -hundred human beings!</p> - -<p>On entering the church, we were met at the door -by a pussy snuff-taking priest, whose besmeared outer<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">22</span> -garment looked as if it would have been all the better -for the application of a cake of brown soap in -connection with some of the clear water which -coursed down the mountain past his sanctuary. The -interior of the edifice displayed the most garish -taste, and with its sickening amount of gilding, was -embellished in the most tawdry manner. There was -the customary proportion of relics, and the paintings -around looked very old. Our stay was short, and -after leaving a small sum for our footing, as Jack -would say, we returned to our steeds, leaving the -wax figure of the lady patroness of the island in a -glass case in the rear, looking as demure and as indifferent -to our presence as when we entered. The -whilom legends of the devout tell of her, at a time -when breadstuffs were scarce, having left her crystal -enclosure and gone to hurry on cargoes of grain to -Funchal, which, like Buckingham, were “on the sea.”</p> - -<p>The descent to the Coral—a deep mountain gorge -of singular and circular formation—is by a narrow -shelf of a road cut in the face of a precipitous hill, -and running in inclined planes. One does not entirely -fancy the task of going down; but then the -horses are rough-shod, with reference to such places, -are remarkably sure footed, and move instinctively -with much caution. On getting to the bottom, the -road by which we had just come looked like a mere -thread-line on the face of the cliff that hung over us. -Its depth is some sixteen hundred feet, and you look<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">23</span> -up to the azure above you as from an immense pit. -We stopped at a small mill situated at the lowest -point of the Coral, to give our horses a little time to -blow, and our borro querros a little country wine, -which was likewise patronized by ourselves. I noticed -around clumps of pines planted for fuel, and a -number of exquisite flowers growing spontaneously. -We ascended from the Coral by a road equally as -narrow and precipitous as the one by which we had -gone down, only proving less clear; a large rock -which had caved from the bank nearly barricaded -the path, and on reaching it my horse, whose reputation -I subsequently ascertained to be one for shying, -came quite near treating himself and rider to a Tarpean -fate. On reaching the top, we were refreshed -by a breeze redolent with perfume, and turned into a -road enclosed on either side by hedges of bona fide -geranium. It is feeding on this sweet plant that imparts -to the meat of the native cattle, when eaten, a -peculiar flavor; and the honey of the bee who gathers -his sweets from it, is strongly impregnated with -its pleasant odor. No wonder that the attenuated -invalid should resort to thee, beautiful Madeira, to revive -his drooping spirits. We returned to the city -in the evening, by a road running past pleasant gardens, -and by a bridge that spans the canal which receives -the quickly-swollen mountain streams, and put -ourselves in charge of mine host of Guilletti’s.</p> - -<p>The next day I landed near the governmental<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">24</span> -house, where was staying as a guest the invalided -empress mother of Brazil, who had, with a broken -constitution, gone to Madeira, since to die. I visited -the charitable hospital of the place, which fronts on -the grand plaza. No sight can be more loathsome than -the one to be seen in the wards of a Portuguese hospital, -unless it be that of the dead mendicants that -you pass in the streets of some of the cities of China. -The most terrible ailments that flesh is heir to, and the -greatest suffering that “age, ache, and penury, can -lay on nature,” were present all around. And then -there were others in whom the flame of life, after -flickering lowly, had just gone out. I was very willing -to get away from the apartment, and after descending -to a dimly-lighted chapel below, where a -solitary priest was engaged in prayer for the repose -of the dead and dying above, and glancing at its -characteristic decorations, I left the building. The -edifice itself is quite an extended one, though it has -no architectural beauty to attract attention. Over -its main entrance, cut elaborately in a massive block -of stone, are the royal arms of Portugal.</p> - -<p>My next place of visit was to the local prison, -through which I was accompanied by a sergeant. -The inmates, who were composed of both sexes, confined -for offences of smuggling a bar of soap, up to -those of a graver character, are allowed to indulge in -any handiwork for which they are competent, and the -product of their hands, tied on the ends of poles, is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">25</span> -thrust through their prison-windows into the street, -of which they solicit the purchase by the passer-by. -But not even in the prisons are you exempt from the -“<i>por sua suade</i>”—the interminable solicitation for -alms; and the distance which the prisoner may be -from you is no barrier, as he is provided with a small -car which, with a pole, he can push to his outer grating, -and as quickly withdraw. I can mention a circumstance -to show with what little sense of degradation -or hesitancy this thing of alms-asking is indulged -in by a dago population. I was sitting in front of the -consul’s, conversing with some friends, when quite a -genteel and tidily-dressed person, rejoicing in a much -better pair of patent-leathers than I could muster, -approached us and solicited alms, and was quite pertinacious -in his request. I had heard of the Spanish -beggars on horseback, who solicited aid of pedestrians -on the ground that they had more need of assistance -than other people because they had to support their -beast as well as themselves, but I had never met with -anything quite as deliberate until I encountered my -patent-leather-shoe friend at Madeira.</p> - -<p>And now we have been at Funchal two days, and -the third, on which we are to take our departure for -St. Helena, has arrived. In taking leave of the -pleasant isle of vine and bower, the writer regrets -that he can not, for the benefit of those of a more -sentimental mood than himself, follow the example -of others, and say something about the Santa Clara<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">26</span> -convent, that stands embosomed by deep foliage on -the hill, and tell in touching tones about the fair and -unhappy Donna Clementina, who, besides being admired -because Heaven had vouchsafed to her a visage -blonde, when those around were brunette, was also -loved for other qualities, for which <i>vide</i> her devotees—how -she “would be a nun,” and how she “wouldn’t -be a nun;” and how some “young Lochinvar,” who -they say came “out of the west,” once wished to do -something both romantic and desperate, and rescue -the fair lady from the holy precincts where, it was -represented, she was most unwillingly detained; but, -with Mr. Aminadab Sleek, in the play, “we are really -afraid we can’t.”</p> - -<p>Good-by, Madeira, whose tropical beauty was so -fresh to me, and the picture of whose loveliness will -be ever in mind.</p> - -<p> -“Long, long be my heart with such memories filled.”<br /> -</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">27</span></p> - - - - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</h2> - - -<p>On the afternoon of the 15th of December, all hands -being on board, with coal dust, and wine for distinguished -functionaries in the U. S. on our decks, -an orange and banana smell over the ship, and six -little Madeira bullocks, who, upon being hoisted in -by the horns, no sooner reached the decks, than they -indulged in a series of cavortings, to the no small -amusement of the old shell-back denizens of the forecastle, -we lifted anchor, and steamed away from -Funchal, to the south. At nightfall Madeira’s lines -of green, and basalt, and red soil, were lost to -view.</p> - -<p>We were now entering on the longest run we anticipated -making during the cruise. On the second -morning out at an early hour we made Palma, one of -the westernmost of the Canary islands. When the -sun came up from behind it, defining its sharp peaks -and irradiating the whole outline of the island, I had -the happy consciousness that it fully compensated me -for the rupture of my matinal slumbers, necessary to -get a glimpse of it. The celebrated peak of Teneriffe<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">28</span> -was wrapped in cloud when we passed, and I did not -see it; though others with “optics sharp,” at one -time, said they discerned it in the extreme distance. -We subsequently passed in sight of the Cape de Verde -islands. During the day we ran into what is termed -the incipient northeast trades, and as our coal was -not deemed sufficient for the run before us, the engines -were stopped, twenty tons of water blown from -the boilers, fires extinguished, sufficient number of the -paddles removed from the wheels, which were lashed, -the large smoke stack lowered on the hurricane deck, -and the ship put under sail. Many of us thought if the -Japanese could only get a sight of the funnel as it -lay in its chocks like another huge “peace-maker” -when we reached their country, they would prove -quite accessible. The spars of the Mississippi being -tall, she spread a great deal of canvass, but the wind -continuing quite light we made but little progress for -several days. A whale saluted us by tapping his -head against our port guard. On the 18th we tacked -ship, and on the 21st we got the trade-winds proper, -and under studding-sails ran quite well. Life on -the ocean, monotonous, nearly, at all times, was rendered -more so to us, by the transition from a steamer -to a sailing ship. To study on shipboard, or even -to read with profit, as I had heard before, is next -to impossible, unless it may be with an old sea-dog -to whom for some forty years the “ocean has been a -dwelling-place.” Try it, and you will find your eyes<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">29</span> -wandering from the type, and your thoughts bolting -from the subject, like a refractory quarter-horse -over a track railing. The weekly routine of the ship -was comprised in going to quarters, morning and -evening, for inspection; and once a week the whole -ship’s company are beat to general quarters, when -the magazines are open, the powder-boys busy in -passing and repassing cartridge-boxes, the guns are -cast loose and worked by their crews, boarders are -called away, pikemen are posted to repel boarders, -marines are stationed near them, &c.; the master gives -his orders for sail-trimmers to put stoppers on such -portions of the rigging, as an active imagination suggests -must have been shot away, and all the evolutions -of an actual engagement at sea are gone through; -together with exercise at fire-quarters, when an alarm -with the ship’s bell is rung, at which sentinels are -placed at the falls of each boat, so that in an actual -emergency there could be none of the inhuman desertion -and infamous flight which marked the sad catastrophe -of the “Arctic.” All of these exercises, which -increase the discipline of a crew and the efficiency of -a ship, are of course possessed of more interest to -those officers who have military duties to perform on -board, than others, who are too apt to experience the -indifference of the Emerald isle native, who being informed -that the house was on fire, replied it was -nothing to him, he “was only a boarder.”</p> - -<p>The weather we experienced in the trades was very<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">30</span> -pleasant, though it became hot with much suddenness. -Pretty white clouds trooped across the sky like pilgrims -in white, bound to Mecca. The regular waves -as they came chasing one another from the horizon, -rolled the whitest caps, and the sea was of the bluest, -particularly as the lashed arms of our wheels divided -the water in their passage, and the wheel-houses keeping -off the direct rays of the sun, made it exquisitely -transparent. Though the dews at night were so -heavy that the moisture would run like rain off the awnings, -yet the shadows of the big sails that had gone -to sleep from the steadiness of the wind, made -deeper by the bright moonlight and the illuminated -image of the engine of our Savior’s agony—the -“southern cross”—with its twinkling stars looking -down from the sky, made one forget that the distance -from the coast of Africa was not the greatest, and that -the wearing of a thick coat at night, was a decided -improvement on a thin one. Porpoises were almost -in the daily practice of thrusting their swinish nozzles -upon public attention, and innumerable graceful -little flying-fish, disturbed by our passage through the -water, or chased by the dolphin, flew continually -across the waves ahead of us, like flocks of sparrows -over briers. But then we had the smallpox on board, -on the person of a Portuguese boy shipped at Funchal, -and the possibility of contracting this loathsome disease, -or the possession of an arm rather sore from -vaccination, did not make the run more pleasurable.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">31</span></p> - -<p>The events of Christmas day were, that we were in -13° 23′ north latitude, and 23° 48′ west longitude; -a very pleasant repast was spread by the ward-room, -where “home with all its endearments” was drunk in -Serchal; and a poor little bird very much resembling -the partridge of our own country, was blown aboard. -This little representative of Africa’s feathery race fell -a victim to the taxidermist aboard. What he thought -previous to his demise, of the day, I know not, but to -me it was not Christmas; and no mental effort could -“bring back the features that joy used to wear” when -the mistletoe was hung, and the back log placed; nor -could the defunct gobbler, who lately bestrode our -coop, sole tenant, now lying in very brown state on a -festive table, even provoke the pleasant memories.</p> - -<p>The next day, promulgated by Commodore M. C. -Perry, and signed by the then hiatus secretary of -the navy, Mr. Swallow-Barn Kennedy, was read on -the quarter-deck, General Order, No. 1, which, it is -said, had a precedent in the expedition of Lieut. -Wilkes, but which was as bad as its precedent, and -equally unjust, being based upon the ridiculous premise -that because a government may have claim upon -your thews and sinews, or your mental aptitude in -the line of your profession, that it likewise has property -in the product of your brain, no matter in what -other way, out of your calling, it may be exercised. -This order was violated subsequently in China, in the -grossest way, with the tacit consent of the commander<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">32</span>-in-chief -who first issued it; as if the prominent, in -rule, or law, under our government were any more -exempt from its provisions, than that the humblest are -not beneath its control. I say in the grossest way, -because he permitted, if he did not personally supervise, -the preparation of an account of the movements -of his squadron, for the colonial English newspapers -at Hong-Kong, in preference to our own; papers too, -whose columns at other times displayed the village -squabbling, which marked the thunders, of the “Eatanswill -Gazette” in Pickwick, in response to the shafts -of “The Independent.”</p> - -<p>The following is the order:—</p> - -<p class="right"> -“<i>U. S. Steam Frigate, Mississippi</i>,<br /> - -<span class="gap2r">“<i>At Sea, December 21st, 1852</i>.</span> -</p> - -<p class="center">“<span class="smcap">General Order, No. 1</span></p> - -<p>“In promulgating the subjoined extract from the instructions -addressed to me by the honorable secretary -of the navy, and bearing date 13th ult., I have to -enjoin upon all officers and other persons attached to -the vessels under my command, or in any other way -connected with the squadron, a most rigid adherence -to all the requirements of said order.</p> - -<p>“Whatever notes or drawings may be prepared by -the officers or other persons before mentioned, whether -by special order, or by their own volition, will be endorsed -by the respective parties, and transmitted -through the captain of the fleet to the commander<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">33</span>-in-chief, -who will in due time lodge them at the navy -department, from whence they may be reclaimed as it -may suit the convenience of the government.</p> - -<p>“All arms, curiosities, and specimens of natural -history, are also to become the property of the United -States, unless voluntarily relinquished by the commander-in-chief.</p> - -<p class="center"> -“<span class="smcap">M. C. Perry</span>,<br /> - -“<i>Commander of the U. S. Naval Forces</i>,<br /> - -“<i>Stationed in the East India, China, and Japan Seas</i>.”</p> - - -<p class="center">[<span class="smcap">Extract.</span>]</p> - -<p>“A subject of great importance to the success of -the expedition, will present itself to your mind in relation -to communications to the prints and newspapers, -touching the movements of your squadron, as well as -in relation to all matters connected with the discipline -and internal regulations of the vessels composing it. -You will therefore enjoin upon all under your command -to abstain from writing to friends and others -upon these subjects, the journals and private notes of -the officers and other persons in the expedition must -be considered as belonging to the government until -permission be received from the navy department to -publish them.”</p> - -<p>The effect of this order was to cause officers to decline -keeping journals, and only note down their previous -conceptions and present impressions of things -and places seen, in their letters to relatives.</p> - -<p>In 8° north of the equator we became becalmed,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">34</span> -when the paddles were put on and we steamed away -about eight knots. Our drinking water about this time -showed a degree of <i>vitality</i> which was not made more -agreeable by the fact that the naval regulations did -not allow the wearing of the mustache, even for -straining purposes.</p> - -<p>About ten o’clock on the last night of ’52 there was -a cry from the poop-deck of “man overboard!” when -the engines were stopped, and the life-buoys suspended -from either quarter of the ship were attempted to be -gotten away, but not going quickly, nor their matchlocks -igniting from some cause, gratings were hove -overboard, lights sent up in the mizzen-top, and a metallic -boat, the 2d cutter, in which went Lieutenant -Webb, and Passed Midshipman K. R. Breese, was -lowered and went in search of the unfortunate man. -There was much solicitude felt for the poor fellow by -those who stood on the poop peering into the darkness -astern, eager to hear the least sound that indicated -the man still afloat, but it was scarcely shown -by the scene enacted during the absence of the boat. -Up came the commodore: “What’s the bearing of -that star?—Where did that man fall from?” <i>Voice</i>:—“Show -the Commodore where the man fell from!”—man -goes over to port side—“Take care of the -paint!” “How does she head?” After a lapse of -fifteen or twenty minutes the boat was heard returning, -when the following was the hail:—“Mr. Webb?”—“Sir?”—“Have -you got the buoy?”—“Yes, sir.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">35</span>”— -“Have you got that man?” <i>Answer</i>: “Yes, sir,” -which was one of much gratification, as every one regarded -him as gone. The boat it appeared, had passed -him, and having given up the search, was returning, -and would have pulled over him, but for his being -discovered in time by a bow-oarsman. He was floating -without effort on the surface, although there was -considerable sea on at the time. The poor fellow -upon being taken on board was found to have swallowed -a great deal of water, and it was thought that -he might die from congestion of the lungs. He had -the antithetical name of Dry, and his mind being afterward -found affected, he was sent home in a merchant-ship -from the Cape of Good Hope.</p> - -<p>We crossed the equator on the 3d of January, in -longitude 11° west, and when the “sun came up on -the left” on the morning of the 10th, right ahead, -perhaps in the very track of the Northumberland, -looming sternly up from out the ocean, like the dark -high walls of an ocean-prison that it is, we saw St. -Helena. The tallest peak, that of Diana, is visible -in the clouds for a great distance. At mid-day we -anchored in the roadstead fronting James’ town, and -shortly after saluted the flag of England with twenty-one -guns. At no time, during a cruise of two years -and over, did I hear any reverberation from our heavy -pieces, half so magnificent. The sound of each explosion, -at first seemed to recoil from the face of the -immense rock which upreared itself in front, and then<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">36</span> -as if gathering strength from the temporary rebuff, it -broke, in and up the wedge-shaped valley in which -James’ town is situated, and appearing for a moment -to die away, again went on over gorge and peak, -tumbling, roaring, thundering in the distance, as if -“Jura answered through her misty shroud.” The -salute was returned by one of the number of forts that -were looming away above us on the island.</p> - -<p>In shore of us lay a number of sharp rakish-looking -little vessels, slavers, that had been captured by -the English cruisers, on the African station, and -brought to the island to be adjudged by a local court -of admiralty; better than our system where captor and -prize have to return frequently, great distances to the -United States.</p> - -<p>The landing at St. Helena is made on a mole at one -end of the small beach that lies only immediately in -front of James’ town. A few minutes’ walk, and crossing -a drawbridge, over a moat, you pass through an -embattled wall, from which some iron pieces frown -down on you, by a lofty gate, at which sentinels are always -posted. On getting inside, a triangular street -made of rolled gravel is before you. On the left are the -guard quarters, the governor’s house and offices, and a -public garden; on the right a church, hotel, and the ascent -to Ladder hill, where is situated the highest fort -of the place, reached by six hundred and twenty-five -steps. Right before you, running from the apex of -the triangle, is the road which leads to the spot<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">37</span> -which has made St. Helena famous, and England infamous -for ever. As you ascend this road, you may -look down on the settlements of the Chinese who -have left the flowery kingdom to dwell in this place -of isolation and desolation; also see the fine English -soldier as he is being closely drilled from company -to battalion, not by duke of Cambridge, or Earl Cardigan, -all of whose bravery will not make up for want -of tactical knowledge, but by sergeants.</p> - -<p>Our stay at the island was to be only until we -could get coal enough aboard to take us to Cape Town, -and so on the following morning I started for -Longwood and the now vacant tomb of Napoleon. I -was not aware when I started on foot, that I had to -walk a distance before returning to the town, of nine -miles, and that too over a road of lava formation, and -under the burning rays of a vertical sun. The ascent, -at the first, is very great. Much fagged on reaching -the summit point I sat down to rest, and surveyed -the scene around. Near me on a road-stone, -his bridleless and heavily-ladened little donkey cropping -thistles not far off, in his parti-colored dress sat -a Lascar quietly discussing his cigar. On the stone -which he occupied, I read “1124 distance: 1180 -feet elevation.” The road in the direction in which -I was going was shut in by clumps of brushwood and -some scrubby pines, above which, far away—its ragged -top currying away the bottoms of the southeast trade-clouds -which, blowing continually over the island,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">38</span> -ever and anon drop their genial drops on the arid -earth beneath—rose Diana’s peak hundreds of feet in -air. But the view looking seaward: Sir Joshua -Reynolds said that the horizon-line of the great and -wide sea in mid-deep is one of the most striking emblems -of the infinite and the eternal to be found in -all the works of the Almighty. This idea, of all other -places, arises in the mind when gazing from the -eminences of St. Helena; but then, as you look upon -“the sea here, the sea there, the sea all around,”—contrasted -with the vast expanse, how small in the -imagination becomes the spot on which you stand, -and how coffined before death, must have felt the -great spirit, to whom all Europe was once a theatre,—<i>qui -fait le tour du monde</i>!</p> - -<p>From where I sat, I could see in the gorge beneath, -very plainly, the “Briers,” the home and habitation -of Napoleon until Longwood could be gotten -ready for his reception. It is situated behind a naked, -stony hill, and must have been a warm abode, -but Napoleon liked it for its quaintness and solitude; -preferring it to better houses in the town, where privacy -would have been impossible. The place is enclosed -by low walls and rows of the prickly pear. -On resuming my tramp, I passed some swarthy-featured, -black-haired, fine-formed young women, barefooted, -and lightly clad, carrying bundles of twigs on -their heads, with which they walked, with apparently -perfect indifference, notwithstanding the steepness of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">39</span> -road and the intense rays of the sun. I soon reached -and went by an old cottage in decay, a rusty signal-gun, -a wayside inn with an embowered doorway, and -then passing through a lane of trees, I entered upon -a level road, which, in the space of three quarters of -a mile, turned in crescent to the left. Some distance -below, within this crescent, a lot of fir, cypress, and -other trees, with grassy sod, terminated a small valley -which commenced in desolation from the seaside. -This spot was enclosed by a low, straggling fence, -having a kind of sentry-box at its gate, and contains -the vacant tomb of Napoleon. I descended to the -place, paid the shilling entrance required of me, and -entered the enclosure. The willow-tree which so invariably -figured in all drawings of the spot, is now -gone. The grave is enclosed by a plain iron railing, -and, when I saw it, covered over with an awning. -Its present appearance is that of the strong -foundation of an elongated old spring-house, lined -with cement. It is eight feet deep, having at the bottom -a small recess sunk below the general level, -which received the coffin, and about five feet wide. -Desirous of getting the exact measurement of so -much greatness, one of our party stretched himself at -full length in this lower deep, but its chilliness soon -made him have as little desire to continue there, as -the old hero of New Orleans had to repose after -death in the sarcophagus of one of the Cæsars, which -the very considerate kindness of a commodore had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">40</span> -brought for him. The whole surface of the plastering -down in the tomb is covered with scarcely-legible -names, or petty ambition’s trashy verses. The same -very limited aspiration is to be seen in the pages of a -register kept at the place, where the national animosities -of visiting-strangers play shuttlecock and battledore. -The obstinate and collected Englishman -repeats the commonplace of Sir Walter Scott, in -wishing you to behold the spot which held him for -whom the earth was once too small, or ethically -informs you, that one life being taken constitutes -murder, but that of thousands makes a hero; then -comes the mercurial Frenchman, who, after relieving -himself by a great big “<i>sacre</i>” on the English nation -generally and the island jailer in particular, says Napoleon -is avenged, for Hudson Lowe “<i>est mort</i>;” or -breaks out with “<i>J’ai vu: J’ai maudit!</i>” Next -comes that peripatetic philosopher, Jonathan, who, -smacking as usual of the shop, furnishes the edifying -information that he belongs to the “Mary Brown, of -New Bedford, has bin out over two years, and hain’t -got but four hundred barrils of oil; hopes to be to -‘hum’ soon; and stopping at the island, has just -come out to see Boney’s tomb!”</p> - -<p>When the tomb contained the body of the great -emperor, it was filled to within one foot of the surface, -with earth, and covered in mound form with -cement. The three slabs that closed the grave, were -taken from the kitchen hearth of the Longwood jail.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">41</span> -A <i>cicerone</i>, in the person of a gray-haired old negro -woman, who saw both the interment and the exhumation -of the remains of Napoleon, tells you in an Ethiopic -vernacular, of the incidents of the spot; after -enumerating the number of coffins in which the body -was placed, she said, “Dare, sir, laid his head, and -here was his feet.”—“He always used to drink at -dat dare spring, dare.”—“I’s seen him many a time -come down dat hill dare wid his snuff-box and one -of General Bertram’s children.”—“When he used to -stop still, he’d do jest so”—folding her arms. She -was also quite minute in her mention of the “Prince -de Jonnyville” in the “Belpooly.”</p> - -<p>The spot was pointed out to me where Bertrand, -Gourgaud, Las Casas, and Marchand, erected the tent -to put the body under after exhumation, which took -place amid wind and rain. All around the tomb was -wet and miry; in times of heavy rains, now, the tomb -is not unfrequently filled with water. The work of -disinterment was begun after midnight, and by seven -o’clock in the morning the stones that closed the -lower vault were raised. The anvil employed by the -men engaged upon the work to keep their tools in -order, sank at every blow, and the men were ankle -deep in mud. I have nothing pathetic or philosophic -to add, upon the spot;</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">“Si ta tombe est vide Napoleon?</div> - <div class="verse">Ton nom ne remplit il pas l’universe.”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>Ascending the hill on the other side, by a winding<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">42</span> -path which led up through a pretty garden, I stopped -at the little residence of “Hutt’s gate,” formerly occupied -by General Bertrand, with his family, previous -to moving out to the building in the vicinity of -Longwood. After resting here, I footed it a mile -further, to the outer entrance to the grounds of Longwood. -The prospect before me during this walk was -of the dreariest and most desolate kind, presenting -the most marked contrast to the verdure at the tomb. -It was along this road that Napoleon walked to his -favorite spring, and over which his Chinese coolies -carried his water from it. After passing a dilapidated -wall and gate, you enter upon a lawn of some -hundred yards, on one side of which are straggling -fir-trees, bent down in the same direction by the continual -pressure of the southeast trade-winds, which -are felt at this part of the island very strongly, and -the other side was hedged by a long row of the -stately aloe. In a few minutes you are in front of a -dilapidated low building, with a small verandah in -front of one of its wings, and partly enclosed in an -old stone wall. This is Longwood as it now is. When -I reached it, the place looked abandoned in the extreme, -with the exception of the cows and a scrawny -donkey that browsed around, or a solitary turkey who -broke the silence with his gobble. There was the decayed -and silent guard-house and signal-tower, its -halyards rotted away and pole tottering, from which -the restless bunting was for ever telling by day to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">43</span> -sedulous jailer at “Plantation House” how his great -prisoner at Longwood, after the mental exhaustion -of dictation, or the fatigues of a morning walk, now -slept, or that, having slept, he was now feeding his -pet fishes in the little pond in the rear of his cell -abode. This quiet was soon broken; a dirty-faced, -uncombed-haired English girl approached, and informed -us that the fee for admission to the house was -two shillings—Longwood, like the grounds around -the tomb, being leased by the government to others, -for the purpose of speculating on the interest of association -connected with the great emperor. If we are -the “dollar people,” can any man who has ever visited -English domain say, that they are not entitled to -the name of “shilling nation!”</p> - -<p>The first room you enter on going into the house, is -the one in which, amid storm and rain, and when</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent30">“Far along,</div> - <div class="verse">From peak to peak, the rattling crags among,</div> - <div class="verse">Leapt the live thunder,”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>its booming reaching the now drowsy ear which was -once attuned to the roar of cannon on a hundred -fields, with the ejaculation of “<i>tête d’armée</i>” on his -nearly motionless lips, died Napoleon. The head of -his bed rested against the sill of a window, from underneath -which the French have removed the stone, -and placed it in the Hospital des Invalides as a precious -relic. Through the sashless opening, the sun -now streams in on the floor of a room occupied by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">44</span> -a thrashing-machine, and with a manger overhead; -while the room in which he mostly slept, and ate, and -read, is now paved with cobble-stones, and filled with -horse-stalls. The fish-pond is dry, and the grave of -his favorite horse you can not find.</p> - -<p>Just across the road I visited the new house of -Longwood, its walls sound, its porticoes and floors in -a perfect state of preservation, and its spacious rooms -unoccupied. Napoleon visited it once, but feeling -that one jail was no less one for being better built -than another, spurned this offer of the English to -conciliate him in his cage, as the lion spurns the -leavings of the jackal though he die in his den.</p> - -<p>On my way back to James’ town, I passed in sight -of the grounds and former mansion of</p> - -<p> -“The paltry jailer and the prying spy”—<br /> -</p> - -<p>“Plantation house”—but had no desire to visit it.</p> - -<p>At James’ town there is a very fine bust of Napoleon, -said to have been made from a plaster cast of -the face, taken after death; the nose is much more -exquisitely chiselled and beautiful than any other -representation to be seen of his face.</p> - -<p>Before nightfall on the 11th of January, we were under -way for the Cape of Good Hope from St. Helena.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">“The fleets that sweep before the eastern blast,</div> - <div class="verse">Shall hear their sea-boys hail it from the mast;</div> - <div class="verse">When Victory’s Gallic column shall but rise,</div> - <div class="verse">Like Pompey’s pillar, in a desert’s skies,</div> - <div class="verse">The rocky isle, that holds, or held his dust,</div> - <div class="verse">Shall crown the Atlantic like the hero’s bust.”</div> -</div></div></div> -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">45</span></p> - - - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</h2> - - -<p>We reached Cape Town after a run of thirteen -days. On the morning of the 24th of January we -made the long, low sandhills in the vicinity of Saldanha -bay, South Africa, and continuing our run in -sight of the coast during the day, anchored after -nightfall, with bright moonlight around, in Table -bay. We encountered the whole way a strong head -wind and sea, and at one time doubted whether our -coal would be sufficient to enable us to reach our -port. The men were exercised at target practice, -with pistol and musket. On the 15th, the sun being -<i>vertical</i>, the friendly wish “May your <i>shadow</i> never -be less,” would have been superfluous, as on that day -the thing was impossible. As we neared the guano -islands, lying off the harbor, we were surrounded by -booby-birds and sea-gulls innumerable; the “albatross” -also “did cross,” and very large birds they were.</p> - -<p>Cape Town, from the water, looks like a long, low, -yellow fortification. Its population is about thirty -thousand, made up of the representatives of nearly -every nation. It was captured from the Dutch by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">46</span> -the English in 1806. Being the great stopping-place -for vessels bound round the Cape of Good Hope, or -returning from Australia and the East Indies, the occupations -of the inhabitants are mostly mercantile. -The streets are wide and well laid out. They have -a number of fine churches, a botanical garden, and -quite an extensive library. High behind the town, -flanked on either side by the conical hills of the -“Lion’s Rump” and “Devil’s hill,” rises that remarkable -formation, which is visible a great distance -from the sea, called <i>Table Mountain</i>, four thousand -feet high, and level on the top. The weather is -nearly always unsettled, but a blow may be expected -when the inhabitants remind you that the “cloth is -spread” on Table mountain, which is suddenly covered -with a thick white cloud, which curls over the -steep face of the mountain, and extends itself down -it, as a deep snow from the roof of a house when the -melting begins. When this continues, the ships in -the harbor, which is a very unsafe one, look to their -moorings, and are frequently driven ashore. The -day after our arrival we were compelled to change -our berth: the old Mississippi reared and plunged at -her anchors like an impatient steed endeavoring to -slip his rein, and at night the royal mail steamer -Bosphorus broke from her moorings and went ashore. -We were unable to go to her assistance because the -weather had prevented our getting any coal aboard.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_046f.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">47</span></p> - -<p>As your boat approaches the mole, you pass through -large flocks of the black gull and cormorant, and -nearer the shore, groups of the pelican are feeding. -Should a southeast wind prevail when you reach the -wharf, you will scarcely be able to see the place. -Dense clouds, not of dust, but of coarse red sand, fill -the streets, and are borne in fitful eddies around the -corners. It fills your eyes, if you are so rash as to open -them but for a second, your ears, nostrils, and insinuates -itself underneath every garment that you wear; -you are doing the penance of walking with gravel -under your sock, although sandal-shoon be on. The -male residents who move about wear veils attached -to their hats, but to a stranger the annoyance is horrible. -During the prevalence of this wind, the houses -are closed as well as they may be, but it is insufficient -to keep out the plague. In the parlor-windows -of an English hotel at which I dined, the dust had -accumulated in a morning to the thickness of velvet, -and from the front of the house I saw a Hottentot -servant removing the sand piled on the pavement, as -we would a small snow-drift in our own country.</p> - -<p>But when you can open your eyes, strange-looking -people and strange things meet them. At the hotel, -you were waited upon by Bengalese servants, with -their fantastically-wound turbans of cashmere nearly -the size of a market-basket, their blue gowns reaching -to the knee, tied with red riband in front, making -their waist appear just under their arms, and moving -so stealthily with their bare feet, as they came and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">48</span> -went, that you were not conscious of their presence. -In the streets you see the high-cheeked-bone Malay, -the emaciated-looking cooley, and the red-capped, -half-naked, simial-faced Hottentot, whom the mistaken -philanthropy of English law has removed from -the authority of the Dutch boor, that they may go -lower in the scale of humanity. By you wheels -some lately-arrived cockney in one of the patent -safety cabs from London, the driver perched behind, -and slowly following comes a lumbering wagon, its -tents covering some large casks, it may be, drawn -by sixteen or eighteen yoke of the enormous horned -oxen of this colony, who are ever reminded of the -proximity of their Hottentot driver, by his unceasing -guttural calls and the continual application of -his immense whip, whose lash, after being whirled in -air an instant, he can cause to descend with unfailing -accuracy on the back of any particular ox in -his team, though he be a leader. In the windows of -the stores you notice the graceful feathers of the ostrich, -and its eggs; elephants’ tusks, and those too -of the wild boar left in the skull; and the skins of -the leopard and lion, remind you that you are where -“Afric’s sunny,” &c. Innumerable jargons salute -your ear as you move about.</p> - -<p>On a bright Saturday morning, a Malay, with a -good coach and four very good horses, drove a party -of us out to Constantia, famous for the making of -the celebrated wine of that name. The distance from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">49</span> -town is about nine miles, and the road a very good -one. You pass through long rows of the pine-tree, -which I saw planted for ornamental effect for the -first time, and here and there you see the native -silver-tree, its bright leaves glistening prettily in the -sun. The residences on the route are very cosy-looking, -and much taste is displayed in laying off the approaches -to them. A house not long before occupied -by Sir Harry Smith, while governor of the colony, -was a very attractive place.</p> - -<p>The proprietors of the wine-producing establishments -are very polite in their receptions and show -you over their places with pleasure. We visited -their brightly white-washed and steep-thatched roofed -wine-houses, in whose extended walls were seen the -huge wine butts like those of Madeira, but filled with -the thicker-bodied and sweeter Pontac and Frontenac. -The wine-house of Mr. Cloete has on its front -quite a well-executed bacchanalian scene in <i>basso-relievo</i>, -and was erected in 1793. The roofs of their -houses are steep and smoothly thatched, which covering -is said to last for forty years, without the accident -of fire, of which they are very careful. The -decorations of their grounds are tasty, and the sire, -bending outward the limbs of the oak when young, -leaves a canopied place for table and chairs in the -centre of its branches, for the son.</p> - -<p>The mode of cultivating the grape for the production -of wine at Constantia is peculiar. They use no<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">50</span> -arbor for the support of the vines, but sustain them, -a small distance from the ground, with sticks. When -the fruit has reached maturity, the leaves are cut -away to permit its being reached by the rays of the -sun, and is only plucked for pressing when it has become -nearly as sweet as a raisin; hence the taste of -the wine, its high value, and its body.</p> - -<p>During our stay at Cape Town, the Kaffir war still -continued, and on our way back from Constantia, we -drove to the little settlement of Wynberg to take a -look at the captive Kaffir chief Seyolo, whom the -English had confined in the prison at that place. -We found the prisoner in a small cell, a stalwart -woolly-headed negro, not of the darkest complexion, -standing six feet one and three quarters inches high. -His dress consisted of a lit cigar, and a single blanket -thrown round his person. His wife, Niomese, -with a good countenance and very small hands and -feet, was with him. In an adjoining cell was his chief -counsellor and his wife. They appeared quite cheerful -and decidedly lazy. When the unintelligent face -and elongated heel of Seyolo, was considered, it was -a matter of surprise, how such a creature could have -exercised with any force the power of command, or -displayed any strategic skill to the annoyance of the -English; but it was said that he had not been anything -like as troublesome to the colonists as a withered-legged -Kaffir chief named Sandilli, who having -been once taken and turned out on his parole, would<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">51</span> -be shot in obedience to the sentence of a drum-head -courtmartial, if again captured. The accounts from -the seat of hostilities, during the time we lay at Cape -Town were very unpropitious, owing to the severe -fatigue and exhaustion which the hale hearty soldiers -in their illy-adapted uniform, were compelled to undergo -in bush-fighting or climbing steep places in -pursuit of the alert and fleet-footed Kaffir, while -with the best protection that could be extended to the -kraals of the settlers, their cattle were continually -being driven off by the thieving enemy.</p> - -<p>A stroll through the botanical garden remunerates -one very well. The exotics are rare and tastefully displayed, -while the Fuchias and the Cape Jasmin laden -the air with sweet perfume. The wheat of the colony is -ground in steam-mills situated in the midst of the city.</p> - -<p>Having had the good fortune to have such weather -as we could coal ship in, and also employed carpenters -to build frames for the protection of our fire-room -hatches, against the water which might extinguish -our fires, should we have the misfortune to undergo -one of the severe gales that are so frequently met -with in the ocean which we had to traverse before -reaching our next port, we sent our letter-bag to -a merchant-ship bound to Boston, raised anchor on -the 3d of February, and steamed away out, passing -the Lion’s Rump, False Bay, and Cape Hanglip, bound -to the Isle of France, or as now called, the Mauritius. -On getting a short distance from the place we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">52</span> -encountered a mountainous, foamless swell, which did -not break, but rolled up to a very great height with -regularity. Our ship was sluggish in the extreme, -and when we slid slowly down into the trough of the -sea, the wave before and behind us was apparently -as high as our mizzen top. The colors of a ship -hoisted at her mizzen peak, but only a short way off, -at times, were entirely shut in from our view by the -swell. If this sea had only broken it would have -proved the propriety of the old Dutch name for the -cape—“the Stormy cape.” In rounding the cape -the fate of the unfortunate “Birkenhead,” an English -transport steamer, lost off it some years ago by -running on a sunken rock, came to mind; and we -also thought of the collected bravery of the large -number of troops on board of her. It is one thing -to face death from the belching mouth of cannon or -the deadly rifle, for then a man is hurried on by the -clangor and excitement of the strife, and moves -under the illusory belief that makes more than half -the soldiers of the world, that somebody else may be -killed, but that he will not. But what is to be said -in praise of the placid courage of the poor soldiers -on the Birkenhead, who, with death inevitable, not -amid “the sulphurous canopy,” but death from the -yawning wave <i>facing them</i>, yet fell into rank at the -roll of drum, as if on a dress-parade, and sank into -the yesty deep with the engulfed vessel, patterns of -discipline and martyrs to duty.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">53</span></p> - -<p>We ran to the eastward for some days for the purpose -of getting a favorable wind and then headed -northward for our port. The weather continued -rough and disagreeable. The anti-scorbutic notions -of the commander-in-chief—although we were not a -sailing vessel liable to be out of port for any considerable -length of time, but a steamer whose necessity -for coal would require short runs, caused to be -put on board of us before leaving Cape Town, twelve -of the large, wide horned cape-bullocks, and a number -of the cape-sheep with tails as wide as a dinner -plate. The stalls of the larger cattle were on the -forecastle and on the quarter-deck, tied up to the -halyard racks. When the ship rolled heavily, the -noise of these poor animals endeavoring to conform -to her movement, or disturbed by the men in getting -at the ropes which their large horns covered, and -their continued tramping over the heads of those -below deck, was of course increasing the comfort of -shipboard hugely. Then during a rough night although -cleats had been nailed on the deck to steady -them, some steer would tumble down and dislocate -his thigh, requiring the butcher’s axe to despatch him -next morning. On the port side of the “quarter-deck,” -y’clepted, I believe, in the time of Drake, the -“king’s walk,” the impromptu bleating of the sheep -from a fold made by lashing oars from the breach of -one gun to another, was quite mellifluous.</p> - -<p>If the necessity had arisen of fighting the ship,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">54</span> -overboard would have to go the beef-cattle: if the -ship had been required to salute a superior command -met on the sea, the orders would have been -given, perhaps, as follows: “Starboard (look out for -the bull) fire!” “Port (you’ll get kicked) fire!” -“Starboard (don’t hurt those sheep) fire!” &c. The -efficiency of the ship for war purposes was seriously -impaired, if not destroyed, during their presence.</p> - -<p>Two days from port, the anti-scurvy idea still predominant, -punch made with ship’s whiskey and lime -juice, was served out to the crew, but many an old -shell-back as he took his tot, looked as if he would -have preferred the ardent minus the other ingredients.</p> - -<p>On the 14th of February we discovered a tant -vessel to the windward of us. It proved to be a -steamer under sail alone, her engines out of gear and -dragging her wheels. She stood down in our direction -as if desirous of speaking us, and many expressed -much surprise at our not stopping, but all at -once we had stopped, and the stranger shot across -our stern. In answer to the hail, “What ship is -that?” the reply was: “Her majesty’s steamer -Styx, bound to the Mauritius; please report us under -sail.” Our stopping was involuntary, a screw of one -of the “cut-offs” to our engines having come out, -which was promptly fixed with a block of wood by -one of the admirable engineers which it was the good -fortune of the Mississippi to have; so that we were -ready to go ahead again in a very few minutes. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">55</span> -Englishman, no doubt, was none the wiser for the -belief that we stopped in courtesy to him.</p> - -<p>The weather just before reaching Mauritius was -much smoother than it had been; the sun now came -up upon the right, and his going down in the Indian -ocean at night, was a sight most beautiful to look -upon, its whole bosom bathed in fiery floods, and way -above, tower above tower, rose in radiance and glory -illuminated clouds. When our band’s best strains -were filling the ship at evening and these sights preceded -night, we could hardly realize that we were in -the Indian ocean—the ocean of squalls, calms, heavy -rains, gale, storm, and hurricane.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">56</span></p> - - - - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</h2> - - -<p>About 11 o’clock on our fifteenth morning out from -the Cape of Good Hope, the southwestern end of the -island of Mauritius was visible from the masthead, -and we put on all our furnaces so as to reach Port -Louis before night. On approaching the land we ran -for two hours, past highly-tilled fields encompassing -the cosy houses of the planters, sloping to the water’s -edge in living green. As we neared the small crescent -on which is built the little town of Port Louis, -we were boarded by two English harbor-masters, who -conducted us to our anchorage, and assisted in mooring -the ship head and stern, as the place is too contracted -for a vessel of any size to swing in. Their -costume showed the philosophy which John Bull always -carries into torrid temperatures. They were dressed -in white linen roundabouts, pants and shoes, and on -their heads were wide-brimmed hats, made of the -pith of a tree and covered with white. We had gotten -the ship secured just about the time a gun from one -of the forts nigh us, announced the hour to be 8 o’clock. -I sat upon the wheel-house looking at the necklace of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">57</span> -lights that marked the town; the moon as if moved -by the notes of our band which was playing delightfully -“Katy Darling,” and the “Old Folks at Home,” -seemed to rise more rapidly, and as it came it displayed -the lofty outline of Peter Botte mountain, -of Penny Magazine memory; the tall palms that -fringed the beach on the right looked more stately -and graceful in the silver light, and the scene altogether -was so enchanting, that no one who looked -upon it, could keep from feeling Bernardin-St.-Pierreish.</p> - -<p>At daylight next morning we got a look at Port -Louis. The town is not extensive, though nestling -prettily under tall volcanic hills. Its suburbs are -composed of the red-roofed huts of liberated Africans, -making long streets. In its bazar, like nearly all -places in that portion of the globe, your attention is -first arrested by the grotesque—the kaleidoscope of -costume. Of course your ubiquitous pig-tail friend -“John Chinaman” is present. Here he attires himself -in dark nankeen clothes, wears his clumsy shoe -without sock, twists his plaited queue under a Manilla -hat, and with his Paul Pry umbrella which he seldom -hoists, looks as much like another “John Chinaman” -who passes him, as two bricks in a house. You see -the Arab with his head entirely shorn, or the dark-haired -Lascar most diminutive in loin wardrobe, but -gaudy in the vest that covers his fine-formed chest; -the Parsee clothed in his gown of white muslin, his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">58</span> -turban and pointed shoes; the Malayan women in -very brief attire, their children strapped on their -backs, sitting on the wayside, chewing the areca-nut -or the betel-leaf that they may spit blood-red saliva, -and none the better looking for having a large ring -fastened through the skin of their foreheads, or hanging -from one nostril. These people are all very -graceful in their movements. Their religions are -comprised in Mohammedanism, Buddhism, Hindoo, &c. -They number some six thousand of the population -of the place.</p> - -<p>I had a pleasant drive into the country, over fine -English roads, Macadamized with volcanic stone by -chain gangs. Our fancy-turbaned Lascar driver kept -up the while a noise like that of our swamp-sparrows, -to encourage his horses. We saw the large fields of -sugar-cane, rustling in their deep green, with here -and there the tall white chimneys of a sugar-house, -or the painted roofs of the chateaus of the Creole, -who live very luxuriously, rising in the midst of the -promising crops, whose aggregate yield it was thought -would be one hundred and sixty millions of pounds of -sugar. The foliage that encroaches on the roadside -with its luxuriance, or stretches way back to the base -of the steep volcanic hills in sight, says “Tropical, -tropical;” “the acacia waves her yellow hair,” you -have the wide-spreading banyan, the tall rough barked -cocoa, the cabbage-tree—its branches interlocked, -the banana, the plantain, the ever-graceful palm,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">59</span>— -each one of its leaves large enough to make a fan; -and then too the traveller’s tree, which on being -tapped, affords the weary and athirst a substitute for -water. Underneath this mass of rank green, you -notice the straight-stemmed aloe with its graceful -top-knot, and in the hedges that porcupine plant, the -cactus, whose prickly leaf and long thorn, prevent -the hump-backed, or Hindoo cattle of the country -from getting in the fields of green cane. Then -the birds are beautiful to see: the pure white boatswain, -the noisy little paroquet, the black frigate bird, -and the pretty little cardinal with his feather cowl.</p> - -<p>The morning scene along the roads is at all times -animated. With his proverbial industry, in rope-harness, -one John Chinaman is pulling and another -John Chinaman is pushing, heavy burdens in a small -wagon; or, footing it in a trot to the town, with -his bamboo-baskets strapped on shoulder, goes the -chicken-merchant with his juvenile Shanghaes. Walking -past you in groups, their hands clasped one with -another, or stretched on their back, the rays of the -sun kept off by the shady branches of the palm, or -sitting under a roof made of its leaves, having his -head shaved, or the hairs of his moustache plucked -out here and there, to make the outline more graceful, -is the semi-denuded and meat-hating Lascar.</p> - -<p>This is a very small picture.</p> - -<p>I visited the village of “<i>Pamplemouses</i>,” where is -situated the church—as the delightful story, hath it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">60</span> -—in which worshipped the mother of Paul and the -mother of Virginia. Not far from this building, in -the grounds of a resident, placed on either side of an -artificial lake containing red and gold fish, are two -square cemented pedestals, surmounted by rude urns, -entirely overgrown with the pretty “Pride of Barbadoes.” -These are the tombs of Paul and Virginia—so -said the good old lady who accompanied us to the -sentimental spot, and called our attention to the fact -that they were drowned, when these cocoa, palm, and -camphor trees around, were not so large as now. -Mauritius being an English colony, of course we paid -a shilling. Some sentimental Laura Matilda perhaps -“in tears and white muslin,” has striven for -affectionate immortality, by writing on the tomb of -Virginia, in a rather masculine hand, her name; and -also lets admiring gazers know, that when she is “to -hum,” she is in Massachusetts.</p> - -<p>Next you have a view of Tomb Bay, where the -young unfortunate went to her death by shipwreck, and -after thinking about the height of the breakers, -and the hardness of the coral reef, you soothe the -fervid mood by a stroll through one of the most attractive -botanical gardens that the whole East presents. -The sun poured down his hottest rays, but -the lofty and strange trees that meet above your -head, as a Gothic archway, afford shade, and the -great moisture produced under foot, by this exclusion -of the sun, brings up a thick green moss, so you walk<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">61</span> -on a thick velvet carpet, while on both sides of you, -rivulets of clear water run gurgling all the time. -Whether there was ever such people as the two little -loving recipients of morality, Paul and Virginia, or -not, or that the Saint Giran was ever wrecked, it is -a beautiful spot apart from the story.</p> - -<p>But there is reality as well as romance in the Isle -of France; the present owner, John Bull, supplies it. -On the iron gateway under which you pass, in landing, -is “Victoria Regina,” and Victoria Regina levies -heavy taxes on the planters. A walk on the esplanade -shows you a fence of half-buried cannon—the -trophies of the English when they captured the island -from the French. In front of the house of the governor, -who gets ten thousand dollars more salary -than our president, red-coats continually mount guard. -Policemen throng the streets in the same uniform I -saw in Canada, and in the barrack is quartered a fine -regiment of fusiliers to keep the people in subjection.</p> - -<p>The island, like others in the Indian ocean, has -suffered from hurricanes; the cane may be most promising -in the field, but destroyed before garnered. The -most violent hurricane they ever had, piled three -hundred houses of Port Louis in ruins, and stranded -thirty ships in its harbor.</p> - -<p>The Portuguese, the discoverers of the island, called -it Cerni; the Dutch who came afterward, “Mauritius,” -after Prince Maurice of Holland; and the -French, Isle of France. In the Champ de Mars, a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">62</span> -fine open plain, where the regimental bands play, the -troops drill, and the pretty Creole women take their -evening drives and promenades, I noticed a very -tasteful tomb of a French governor, Malartie, which -was finished by the munificence of Sir William Gomm, -an English governor.</p> - -<p>Four days after our arrival, being the anniversary -of the birthday of the Father of our Country, our ship -was appropriately dressed with our national ensign, -and at mid-day we fired a salute of twenty-one guns, -in which the English man-of-war, the “Styx,” which -had reached port, would have joined us, but an order -from the admiralty forbids the firing of salutes by -their national vessels unless their battery reaches a -certain number of guns.</p> - -<p>We reached Mauritius just in time to enjoy its -pleasant fruits, consisting of the pine-apple, the banana, -the plantain, the mangoe, and the alligator pear, -which could be plentifully obtained from the fruit -boats that flocked around the ship; and then, too, -before breakfast, we drained the cocoa’s milky bowl.</p> - -<p>With a pleasant remembrance of the hospitalities -received from the people of Mauritius, we left Port -Louis for Point de Galle, on the 25th of February.</p> - -<p>We had a run before us of two thousand five hundred -miles, and expected in the stormy ocean we had -to traverse, to meet with rough weather on the passage, -perhaps one of those dreaded typhoons; and that -its approach might be indicated at the earliest pos<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">63</span>sible -moment, our barometer had been compared with -the standard one in the observatory at Mauritius, whose -able and persevering superintendent is devoting himself -to the advance of meteorological information in -that quarter of the globe, and the increase of nautical -science, like our own Maury. His name is Bosquet, -and, at the time of our visit, he was preparing a -moveable index card, showing the various quadrants -of a revolving gale or cyclone, which must prove of -great benefit to the practical navigator in those seas. -We had a smooth sea during the run, hot weather, -and a light head wind. When General Pierce was -taking the oath of office, on the 4th of March, our -nine o’clock lights were extinguished.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">64</span></p> - - - - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</h2> - - -<p>About nine o’clock of the night of the 10th of -March, the lookout in the top sang out, “Light, ho!” -which we knew must be on the island of Ceylon. The -entrance to the harbor of Point de Galle, being quite -narrow, we endeavored to get such soundings as -would enable us to come to anchor until daybreak, -but not succeeding in this, the ship’s head was put -off shore, and we lay-to for the night.</p> - -<p>That most ancient and quasi-veracious traveller, -Sir John Mandeville, who had great injustice wrought -him by the wits of his day, I think it was, who, in -speaking of the approach to Ceylon said, that the -spicy odor therefrom could be smelt long before “the -land thereof might be discerned from the tallest -masthead of a ship.” If this be true, Sir John, great -changes have taken place in these latter days. We -did not detect anything unusually odoriferous in the -atmosphere; and I subsequently found that one might -walk through a cinnamon grove without being attracted -by the scent, as the cinnamon proper is hermetically -sealed by a kind of epidermis bark, which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">65</span> -has to be removed before it is gotten at. The nutmeg, -with the mace around it, at first of a deep-red -color, is enveloped in a covering as thick as the enclosure -of the stone of the apricot, and on the tree -resembles this fruit before ripening. The “spicy -breezes” blow very “softly o’er Ceylon’s isle.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_064f.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">CEYLON.</div> -</div> - -<p>The next morning, having gotten a pilot, we ran -into the harbor of Point de Galle, which is a very -contracted one, though quite secure, surrounded by -groves of the tall cocoa-tree, which nearly conceal -the town. The town, built by the Portuguese, is entirely -walled in and fortified; and since its capture -by the English its defences have been increased. It -occupies a space equal in extent to Fortress Monroe, -and was garrisoned by a native rifle regiment, with -English officers, and a small number of royal artillery. -These Ceylonese troops are said to show a ferocity -of courage when in battle, and the arms of their -light-complexioned commanders frequently have to -be resorted to, to make them cease firing when the -order is given. Point de Galle is now one of the -stopping-places for the peninsula and oriental mail -steamers <i>en route</i> to China, and the isthmus of Suez. -There are two other ports on the island: that of -Colombo, celebrated for its pearl-fisheries and white -elephants, and that of Trincomalee, from which a -great quantity of the teak-wood is brought.</p> - -<p>We had scarcely anchored when the ship was surrounded -by native canoes, called d’honies, which, at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">66</span> -a little distance, resemble planks edgewise upon the -water, fifteen or twenty feet in length. They are -hollowed out of logs so narrow, that the paddling -occupant usually keeps one leg dangling over the -side. To prevent their capsizing, a solid log, much -less in size and length, pointed at both ends, is placed -about ten feet off and parallel with the boat. This is -connected with the boat by arched bamboo poles, and -forms an out-rigger. A paddle propels them very -easily, and they sail quite fast.</p> - -<p>These boats were filled with Indiamen and Ceylonese, -who would have been dressed if they had only -had some garment from the slice of cotton about the -loin, up to their neck or down to the heel. In a -short time our decks were filled with them; also -Mussulmen and Arabs, with their small oval caps and -vests, exposing breast and arms, and others wearing -kerchiefs of all manner of gaudy colors wrapped -about them and hanging to the knees like a skirt. -But the thing that strikes you with the most singularity -is, that the men whose heads are not shaved, -wear their hair in a knot like women, secured to the -back of the head with a large tortoise-shell comb. -These fellows “salam” you, and their salutation is -extremely servile. Some of them come for your -clothes—they are washermen, and return your garments -with remarkable quickness for the East. Others -pull out of their kummerbunds at the waist a lot of -what they call precious stones, and say,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">67</span> “Wantshee, -me have got good mooney stones—star stones, ruby, -cat’s-eye stone, sapphire,” &c.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">“Where every prospect pleases,</div> - <div class="verse">And only man is vile!”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>The “prospect” of being cheated is not a pleasant -one at any time; and these men are very “vile.” -The fellow will hold the precious jewel to the light, -and in the dark, vary its position, rub it, and praise it -with great earnestness and sincerity, but should you -be verdant enough to purchase the gem, even at half -the estimate set upon it by him of the land of Golconda, -an ordinary rat-tail file will very soon assure -you that you have got a fine specimen of cut-glass. -The genuine, or precious stones, are bought up by -agents and sent to London. Should their sales grow -very slack they are most desirous of trading for any -old clothes you may have—oriental and old clothes!</p> - -<p>I landed as soon as I could, after our salute, on the -jutty, from which Mr. Barnum’s elephants had been -shipped, and passing through a walled gate, entered -the town, the sun shining down fiercely. The houses -were of a yellow stucco, very low, without glass in -the windows, generally, and their doors concealed -behind mat screens. In my stroll in the direction of -a fine new lighthouse, terminating a picturesque -point where the sea continually breaks sullenly, my attention -was attracted by a very long, notched white flag, -with a number of smaller ones on the sides, hanging<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">68</span> -from a tall mast. On going toward it, I found it -was placed at the entrance of a walled enclosure, -which contained a mosque and Mussulman school. -Fronting the door of the mosque was a pool of not -the clearest water, enclosed in handsome masonry. -While I stood there, many of the devout, among -whom I saw a blind man, came in and washed their -hands and face, to say nothing of abluting their dentals, -previous to proceeding to their devotions inside -the building; while in the interior were a number -kneeling on mats, then sitting back on their bare feet, -the palms of the hands meanwhile resting on the -knees, occasionally striking their forehead against -the tesselated floor, facing in the direction of Mecca. -Their pointed, clog-like sandals they had left outside. -I was told I could enter if I would remove my pedal -covering, but I declined. Removing one’s boots after -a long walk, in a temperature of ninety odd, is not -exactly the thing. I asked, quizzically, a long-bearded -old Mussulman standing by, who understood English, -whether he had any idols in his temple. He replied -quickly: “No; there is but one God: we worshipped -your Savior and turned our faces to Jerusalem, until -Mahomet <i>our</i> Savior came—now we turn our faces -to Mecca.” Pointing to a Hindoo temple, he remarked: -“They have idols over there, but we are not -allowed even to eat or drink anything when we are -near these buildings.”</p> - -<p>In a low stone edifice adjacent to this mosque<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">69</span> -I glanced in at a school, where fifteen or twenty infantile -scholars of both sexes whose wardrobe complete -consisted of ankle, waist, and wrist rings, and -pendent little silver ornaments, squatted on mats. -In their midst, <i>a la</i> Turk, sat a shaven-headed, -long-bearded Mussulman, chewing the betel-leaf -and areca-nut, and uplifting at intervals the rod of -correction, which was more effective than the ferula -of the Christian, owing to the scanty costume of the -juvenile recipients of Mohammedan morality. The -scholars were engaged in writing with bamboo pens, -on boards covered with a clay preparation, passages -from the Koran, which was lying open upon a little -stand in front of the red-saliva pedagogue. When he -turned a leaf of his sacred book, he did it with a -portion of his white garment, never touching the page -with the naked hand. It appeared to be a free jabber -on the part of the tender nudes, in Arabic, but if a -sentence was missed by one, down came the Damocletian -ratan, and the humanity of breeches rushed -with full force on the mind. The kind heart of Dame -Partington would have been greatly grieved, and she -would have philanthropically exclaimed, “Bless the -inventor of clothing.” And “bless the inventor of -clothing;” the vitiated taste that can find nothing repulsive -in an exact marble nudity, which, in the flesh -of the original would be thought with Dogberry, -“most tolerable and not to be endured,” would be -most fully satiated—gorged—after continually look<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">70</span>ing -upon the half-clad and garmentless people of the -East, no matter how fine their figures. He will certainly -become of the opinion that dress is a part and -parcel of a woman, and that she is never so engaging -in appearance as when clad in Christian garments. -“Greek slaves” in bronze don’t answer.</p> - -<p>One is struck with the fullness, beauty, and glossiness -of the hair of the natives, especially when he -bears in mind, that those who do not shave their -heads, walk uncovered under the hot sun of their -clime. I had some curiosity to find out the secret of -this. They use on their hair twice a-week the juice -of limes, obtained by boiling them, and then dress -it with an oil pressed cold from the queen cocoa, -scented with “citronella,” a very singular and powerful -perfume which they distil on the island. Sixty -drops of the citronella is sufficient to perfume a bottle -of the oil of considerable size.</p> - -<p>Should you sleep ashore at the hotel, you are awoke -at an early hour and informed that “bathing” is -ready. Accoutred in a Lazarus-like robe, generally -known as a sheet, you bid the heathen lead the way, -and you follow to an outhouse constructed of bamboo -and mats. Here two fellows pour cold water over -you from copper “monkeys,” in such quick succession, -that the most inexorable disciple of Priessnitz, -would be soon forced to cry <i>peccavi</i>. Encased in the -Lazarus garment you flee into your chamber. You are -pursued here by a heathen, who tells you<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">71</span> “me barber,” -and proceeds to shave one side of the face at a time, -shampoos your head with lime-juice, and then withdraws -in favor of another idol-worshipping attendant, -who mollifies you with a cup of fine coffee. The pleasant -persecution over, you sleep again.</p> - -<p>The news is conveyed from Point de Galle to Colombo -by a pigeon-express, none of your “fly away to -my native land, sweet dove,” business, with billet-doux, -and riband around neck, but despatches, which are -tied to the feet of the bird, who in flying draws them -up under him, and in that way the paper is kept from -a wetting, should it rain. The birds from one point -are sent to the other by a coach, and not being fed in -this strange cote, upon being turned out with their -despatch they fly home. They fly seventy-two miles -in an hour and three quarters.</p> - -<p>This is an outline of modern Ceylon. The men -who “bow down to wood and stone” here will tell -you, that the footprints of a man, in stone, on the top -of a mountain, is the footprint of their God, where he -stepped over to the main land; but it is called Adam’s -Peak, and the Mussulmen say that Adam and Eve -dwelt there. They will tell you that Paradise was in -the Seventh Heaven, and that Adam and Eve were -expelled by the command, “Get you down, the one -of you an enemy to the other, and there shall be a -dwelling-place for you on earth.” Adam fell on -Ceylon, or Suendib, and Eve at Joddah on the Red -sea, and after two hundred years the angel Gabriel<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">72</span> -conducted Adam to where Eve was, and they came -and dwelt in Ceylon.</p> - -<p>Before leaving Point de Galle, a green boat came -alongside, bearing an elephant flag, out of which came -the captain of a Siamese man-of-war, to pay a visit of -courtesy. He was quite a young-looking man, dressed -in a red jacket with a yellow silk skirt. Behind him -walked an attendant bearing a pearl box in his hand. -One of our midshipmen thought this must contain his -“character.” As he spoke but Siamese, and our commodore -did not speak Siamese, the interview must -have been quite satisfactory.</p> - -<p>On the 15th of March we left Point de Galle, and -headed across the bay of Bengal, in the direction of -the northwest end of Sumatra. We did not take in -our entire quantity of coal at Ceylon, but got on -board fifty tons of the wood of the place, to try the -experiment of its burning in our furnaces. It did not -answer; the expense of consumption per hour was -twenty dollars, while coal would have been about -six, and producing less steam, while it induced greater -danger of setting fire to the ship. In our run across -the bay of Bengal we had a smooth sea, hot weather, -and moonlight nights. In five days we were off the -island of Nicobar, and entered the straits of Malacca, -the weather changing to squally and rainy. Here -we passed the English oriental mail-steamer from -China, having on board commodore Aulick, whose -late command of the East India squadron was soon to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">73</span> -be assumed by the commodore aboard of our ship. -Our run through the straits of Malacca was not signalized -by any remarkable incidents. We saw the -shore on either hand at times; passed in sight of the -English East India penal settlement, Pulo-Penang, -and close aboard of some most lovely tropical islands, -anchored at night, and caught some red fish; made -lay to, and frightened half to death, the captain of a -Malay boat, called a parrigue, who had been manœuvring -very suspiciously about nine at night, by firing -a couple of muskets at him; and received and returned -a salute. This was the English frigate Cleopatra, -in tow of an East India Company’s steamer, -one day’s run from Singapore. As they neared, the -frigate broke stops with an American flag at the fore, -and let slip with twenty-one guns. The old Mississippi -was not to be caught napping, and although we -had to lower away our quarter boats to prevent their -injury by the concussion from our large guns, we soon -had flying the English ensign at the fore, and replied -with twenty-one. It is not the greater part of a century, -that an American man-of-war would have been -allowed to pass without any such national courtesy -being shown by an Englishman. As the two vessels -passed under our stern and stood on their way, our -band gave them in its best style, “God save the -Queen!”</p> - -<p>At one o’clock in the day we were boarded by a -native pilot, who brought from the consul at Singa<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">74</span>pore -a letter-bag for us. It was the first news we -had gotten directly, since leaving the United States, -then out eighty days, and almost antipodal to our -homes, and no one but he who has experienced it can -appreciate fully the joy of getting a letter at such a -time. It was the first that had come to me away -from my own land, and I could have hallooed.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon we rounded in among some beautiful -islands, standing like verdure indexes to the -harbor, and soon after anchored in the English free -port of Singapore, about two miles from the shore.</p> - -<p>And first the boats—yes, the boats. There are no -more characteristic things of a people than their -water vehicles. The enormous “Himalaya” steamship -is the card that Great Britain sends out upon -the ocean; the magnificent clipper-ships of our own -America, as they ride at anchor in the “gorgeous -East,” or the world over, as impatient steeds to break -their tether, not in comparison, but outstripping by -contrast far the naval architecture of any other people, -do not evince the onward and upward march of the -United States, more fully than does the stupid, cumbersome, -unsightly junk, show the <i>inertia</i> of the opinionated -Mongolian.</p> - -<p>The Malay boats around the ship soon after we arrived, -were most symmetrical in proportion, and pretty -to look at. They are “dug-outs,” rather crank, but -beautifully and sharply modelled. The song of the native -rowers is quite strange, and far from unpleasing.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">75</span> -The man who sits behind you in the sharp stern, -steering with a paddle, pitches his voice, and gives -the key-note of the “barbaric pearl” ditty (that is, -I supposed, it must have been something about barbaric -pearls), goes on with the burden, and the two -rowers amidships, rather indifferent to the fact that -the unsteadiness of their boat does not suit you, musically -chorus, “A—lah! A—lah! El—lel—la!” -Their larger boats called prahus, with their graceful -latine sails, move with great rapidity through the -water, and are said to be as elegantly modelled as -any yacht “America.” Indeed, some are of the -opinion that the fast modern pleasure-boat, owes its -origin to the prahus of the Malay.</p> - -<p>Thackeray, in his “Cornhill to Cairo,” has most -pleasantly and truly described the keen relish which -is afforded to travel if one could be taken up, and -suddenly translated—or immersed as it were—among -a people entirely different in complexion, -habit, and costume, from his own. Unfortunately you -are deprived of this in the East; your arrival at one -place is continually anticipating another; and so at -Singapore, most unwillingly, you get too large a slice -of the picture, too much foretaste of the grand “central,” -“celestial,” “flowery,” “middle kingdom,” -though in a few days’ run of China. The first thing -that met our gaze, laying in shore of us, their unsightly -masts unshipped, their large sails under cover, -their high stems and decks in the shadow of mats<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">76</span> -and bamboo, waiting for a change of the monsoon -that they might go back to Quangtung or Fungching, -were moored the ungainly Chinese junks. Of course, -as is invariably the case, even on their smaller boats, -from either side of the square bow peers the big -painted eye; and if the stranger should be curious -enough to inquire why they are put there, the matter-of-fact -Chinaman, with a “Hy-yah,”—more expressive -than the shoulder shrug of the Frenchman—would -make answer, “No hab eye, how can see?”</p> - -<p>On landing, the Chinese features of the place are -found to predominate over all others, though the -population of the town is also composed of English -merchants, Malays, Arabs, Jews, Parsees, Hindoos, -&c., amounting in all to about forty thousand. You -no sooner put foot on the stairs that lead from the -little bridged river, which equally divides the city, -than your ears are filled with the interminable banging -of gongs, more terrific than those which broke on -the tympanum of Mr. Benjamin Bowbell when he was -going to be buried alive with an Eastern princess. -If a Chinese funeral is progressing, the gong is heard, -if some mart has just been opened, or a public sale is -to take place, beat the gong, and at sundown from -the junk, “Joss” is “chin-chinn’d” by gong-beating. -The streets present a scene of much bustle and activity, -and traversing them are the most grotesque and -picturesque oriental costumes—the large tassel pendent -from the Fez cap of the Parsee, of as bright a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">77</span> -scarlet, or his loose vest of as deep a blue, and the -handle of his pipe just as long, as others that I had -seen at prior places.</p> - -<p>On the eastern side of the town, fronting on a fine -parade or drive, are the residences principally of the -Europeans, with the exception of some who have -their bungaloes near the suburbs. Here are also -situated government-offices, a very plain-looking Protestant -church, whose swinging fans mitigate the intense -heat to the worshipping congregation; a very -fine hotel, under whose pleasant mahogany—located -in arbored buildings, kept cool by moving punkas—we -so agreeably placed our knees, to enjoy fine fruits, -and for a time, keep from the rays of a torrid sun; -and a pyramidal column, whose inscription tells in -English, Arabic, and Hindostanee, how grateful the -people there resident are for the service rendered -them, while a prominent member of the East India -Company’s government, by one Earl Dalhousie. He -may be a scion of Pope’s</p> - -<p> -“Next comes Dalhousie,” &c.<br /> -</p> - -<p>On the esplanade, when the sun pales his fire in the -evening, a tesselated group composed of the juvenile -cockney, the Cingalese, the Parsee, and, of course, -“John Chinaman,” take their evening promenade, -while the wealthier natives who have been snoozing -all day come out in their gigs for a drive. Those of -more moderate pretensions, who can muster a half<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">78</span>rupee, -get into a palanquin—pronounced <i>palankee</i>—for -the purpose. These are small four-wheeled vehicles -with mat cushions, capable of holding four persons. -The turbaned and waist-scarfed Lascar driver, -though he has a seat apportioned him, and sufficient -reins, prefers coiling them over his arms, takes his -little horse by the cheek of the bit, and running beside -him, continually encourages him into a gallop. -Some meddling English, with accompanying mistaken -philanthropy, endeavored to get an order passed by -which the dear syces should be made to save themselves -fatigue and ride on their seats, but the dear -syces preferred their old custom, and protested -strongly against any such innovation. About a mile -from the settlement are a large collection of houses -occupied by the Malays, who, although under the protection -of the English, still continue their custom of -building their houses over the water, elevated on -posts and separately, that they may feel freer from -attack, or the visits of live animals. These latter they -have not much to dread now. Singapore is on an -island separated from the main land by a narrow -strip of water, and tigers sometimes swim over, but -they are soon despatched, as the government pays a -reward of a hundred dollars for each one killed. On -my ride to this point I passed some tombs of former -rajahs, and also saw a number of wooden houses that -were being fitted up for shipment to Australia. We -stopped at a factory where that pleasant farina, sago,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">79</span> -was being prepared. It is made from the pith of a -tree; is first placed in vats that it may become dissolved, -then exposed to the sun to dry, after which -any foreign substance is removed by sifting, when it -is packed, ready for exportation, at three dollars and -sixty cents per pecul. The proprietor was a very -polite and good-natured old Chinaman; by-the-by, -nearly all Chinamen are very good-natured: kick -“John Chinaman,” and smile as you do it, and he will -smile too; do it with a frown, and he becomes very -indignant. The old fellow had the customary number -of hogs, whose quarters, whatever may be said of -the want of cleanliness of their celestial owner’s -house, receive great attention.</p> - -<p>Not far from here we went through the ward of a -hospital for English sailors, and also another for Chinese, -whose inmates were lying on elevated and inclined -shelves, the victims of every terrible disease -of the climate.</p> - -<p>The Joss-house at Singapore is as fine, though it -may be not as large, as any to be seen in China. An -elaborately-designed and gaudily-ornamented pagoda, -of colored porcelain, rises from its centre; its doorway -is guarded by two gorgons dire, in a sitting -posture, in whose snarling mouths large balls have -been ingeniously carved, so that you may place your -hand between the teeth and roll them about, yet the -whole is cut from a block of blue flinty granite. The -court and alley are paved with colored porcelain<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">80</span> -tiles, while the altar and the sleepy idol that fills its -rear, are decorated expensively and fantastically. -One of the wings of this temple, from which issued a -more cook-shop than savory smell, I noticed was -appropriated as a kind of popular restaurant, and -filled with Chinamen down to the lower cooly, all -seated at small tables, uttering their mushy jargon, -and bolting with chop-sticks the boiled paddy. Their -proximity to their “Joss-pigeon” neither restrained -their appetites nor their noisiness. “John Chinaman” -will tell you that “Joss” (a word which they are -supposed to have gotten by a corruption of “Dios” -from their Portuguese neighbors at Macao) is a very -good man, but that there is no reason why he should -have a large temple all to himself. Opposite the -temple I saw the first Chinese “Sing-Song,” a street-theatre, -made by the elevation of a staging of bamboos -covered with mats. Upon “these our players,” -gaudily attired, and accompanied by caterwauling instruments -and “tom-toms,” appear to the infinite delight -of their street auditors, who guffaw loud their -approval, as they stand protected from the sun under -their paper umbrellas.</p> - -<p>At Singapore is the prison in which nearly all the -convicts from the possessions of the English are confined, -and a collection of more villanous visages -could not be met with in the walls of any other jail. -Those who have been convicted of murder, have the -word “Doomga”—Hindostanee for their crime—<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">81</span> -branded on their forehead. Those who have been -guilty of lesser offences are put into chain-gangs, and -made to keep the road in order. There was one inmate, -in the person of a negro, from Long Island, -who had been sentenced for fifteen years.</p> - -<p>Singapore was established by the English as a -competitor for the trade of the Dutch at Batavia, in -the East Indian Archipelago, and being declared a -free port, has accomplished the desired result to a -very great degree. Numbers of prahus, that can -play pirating or trading as the opportunity presents, -come there, bringing their commodities, but principally -that they may get powder and shot, to play -Lambro with neighboring Dyaks. It was founded -in 1819, and settled with the consent of the rajah -of Johore, a part of whose possessions it was. This -rajah still receives a large annuity from the English, -and resides in the vicinity of the place. With a friend -I drove out to his place. The building was a plain -one, fronted with a verandah, and the entrance ornamented -with two little brass howitzers. We were received -by the rajah’s son, who spoke a little English. -He was gaudily attired in turban made by wrapping -a parti-colored kerchief about the head, from his -side hung a handsomely-mounted dagger, and he also -sported a fine gold watch. His features were quite -handsome for a Malay. We were ushered into an -upper room, at one end of which, on a sofa, with his -feet drawn up under him, similarly attired with him<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">82</span>self, -sat his father the rajah, and his brother whom -we understood to be a “sultan” of some neighboring -province or country. On the table in front of them -lay their krisses, the hilts inlaid with costly jewels. -They were quite jolly-looking old fellows, and had a -great many questions to ask about the mission on -which our ship was bound, &c., but the defective -translation of his son made the business of answering -a slow one. Before leaving him he caused tea and -sweetmeats to be brought in, and joined us quite -sociably. The next day his son paid us a visit aboard -ship.</p> - -<p>On the 29th of March, we left Singapore, and in a -short time were heading our course in the China sea. -On the 2d of April the heat became very oppressive. -What little breeze moved on the water was aft, and -the steamer moving faster than it, the windsails which -led to the lower quarters of the ship afforded no comfort, -and hung collapsed from their halyard. Some -of our firemen; whose duties always severely onerous, -but particularly so in those burning latitudes, fainted -as they stood in the fire-room while feeding their furnaces. -Such is the exhausting effect of the climate -on those engaged by the peninsular and oriental -steamers, that engineers and firemen, it is said, are -rotated at intervals, with those engaged on the more -healthy part of the route on the other side of the -isthmus of Suez. The greatest mortality among them -arises from diseases of the liver.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">83</span></p> - -<p>“All Fools’ Day” is not forgotten on shipboard. -The better to remember it in the younger messes, it -is set apart for the celebration of the caterer’s birthday -(of course the caterer is born on that day); the -table is spread in the best way, and not until the -caterer’s health has been proposed in sherry—“a bumpers -and no heel-taps”—and the wine-glasses emptied, -does the choking sensation remind the uninitiated that -he has bolted a wine-glass of rather strong whiskey.</p> - -<p>In two or three days the weather suddenly changed -to blanket temperature; we ran into a heavy head -sea; the spray was chilly, and the sun sank as if in -the cold gray of autumn. On the morning of the -6th April, the Ladrone islands appeared in sight, and -we ran into a fleet of some three hundred Chinese -fishing boats—we were off the shores of the Middle -Kingdom. The sight of these awkward boats, with -their build, showing what travellers to Cathay have -called the celestial propensity to “reverse” everything, -was an interesting one. But why say the Chinese -reverse? They had a national existence, when -these our moderns were not even in embryo; their -laws had an existence long before the code of Lycurgus -was promulged, and their hieroglyphic record -goes away back to a period which our own sacred -revelation does not compass, so it is we who reverse. -John Chinaman knows that though the stern of his -boat is broad and high; that its bow runs wedge-like -and low; that his masts, instead of raking aft, lean<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">84</span> -forward; and if his boat, under sail, look as if she -was going to run under, still that she has borne him -safely when many a “ty-fung” blew. We wished a -pilot, but in answer to the inquiry whether any could -furnish one, they nodded assent, and held up fish and -some rice. The weather being thick we ran in under -one of the Ladrones and anchored for the night in -thirty fathoms water, and fired a gun for a pilot. The -next morning at daybreak, we ran in and anchored -in the roadstead of the old Portuguese city of Macao, -about four miles from the shore. Though the turbid -water all around, and the naked islands that encompassed -the anchorage, did not afford a prospect calculated -to prepossess one with his first glance at the -“Flowery Kingdom,” still we had a feeling of gladness -that after an almost uninterrupted run of over four -months we had reached our goal, or the region which -was to be the theatre of our movements—yes, for -months.</p> - -<p>Our stoppage was short; after communicating with -the navy store-keeper and the authorities ashore, receiving -an official visit from the Portuguese captain -of the port, and procuring a Chinese pilot, we lifted -anchor, and stood over for the more flourishing English -colonial town of Hong Kong. We reached this -place after doubling through denuded steep islands, -about seven o’clock in the evening. The ships of the -East India squadron lying in the harbor, who having -had some intimation of our proximity to the station by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">85</span> -the mail-steamers from Ceylon, were on the <i>qui vive</i> -for our approach. The old Mississippi, with the -broad pennant at her masthead, no sooner emerged -from behind the western point of the island, than the -“Saratoga” and “Plymouth” sloops-of-war hoisted -their numbers and saluted. The storeship, “Supply,” -we also found there. Our ship was soon filled by -brother American officers from the other ships, come -to salute and welcome old friends, and hoping that -the mail-bags we had from the United States, had -brought each one “good news from home.” The -meetings were so joyous and so cordial that we did -not remember that they were taking place on the -other side of the globe. Officers from the English -and French men-of-war also came aboard to pay their -respects.</p> - -<p>The oriental salute seldom consists of more than -three guns, and many of the natives of the East are -unable to see why this number should be fired; they -can not comprehend why you should burn in compliment -the same material, which you would employ in -sending deadly missiles at them, if in anger. But we, -Christian nations, manage things differently; and the -next day after our arrival told it: from the rising -to the setting of the sun nearly, it was powder burning. -Upon hoisting the colors at eight o’clock we -saluted the town with twenty-one guns, and twenty-one -were returned by a water-battery; the French -saluted us and we saluted them; then came the ad<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">86</span>miral -and commodorial salutes, English and French, -which were returned in the old style by letting fall -fore-top sails the while; and so that day the noise of -one hundred and seventy-nine guns, broke and tumbled -along the naked hills of Hong Kong, with nearly -as splendid an effect as at St. Helena.</p> - -<p>The harbor of Hong Kong is a very commodious -and well-sheltered one, in the shape of a half-moon, -and its three entrances of Green Island, Cap-sing-moon, -and Lymoon passages, can not be seen from its -centre. On a shelf which makes a circular sweep, -cut at the base of towering volcanic hills, is built the -town named in honor of the present sovereign of Great -Britain. Victoria, from the water, presents a fine -appearance, with its stuccoed warehouses, or “go-downs,” -at the beach, and the private residences and -churches rising from plateaus made by immense labor -above; and the massive stone government offices and -barracks that appear on the left, tell how firmly the -English plant their foot in the East, and how triumph, -with them, is synonymous with occupancy of a slice -of an enemy’s territory. This colony is the result of -their opium war in China. Our stay was short: the -commodore despatched the “Plymouth” to Shanghae, -and, in the Mississippi, ran over to Macao, an inland -run of thirty-nine miles.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">87</span></p> - - - - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</h2> - - -<p>We anchored in Macao roads about mid-day, perhaps -on the very spot, where a sailor’s malice fired a -magazine, and blew high in air, with a noise like thunder, -the atoms that composed the Portuguese frigate -<i>Donna Maria</i>, some years before. Macao, though in, -is not of China; instead of the low hut-like structures -of unburnt blue brick and fantastic tile of the Celestial, -the eye, as it takes in the fine sweep of the Praya, -rests on large mansions whose verandahs exclude the -sun, whose portals are spacious and stylish, and whose -stucco little discolored by time, only appears all the -more impressive, and sees rising on the eminence -behind venerable cathedrals; while garrisons, crown -batteries, and old-looking forts on either side, with -the ensign of Portugal, define its ownership, and -make the picture more imposing. It was here that -the zeal of the Jesuit commenced the propagation of -his faith and questioned the ethics of Confucius; it -was here that the “glory and shame” of Portugal—one-eyed -Camoens—disgusted at the country which -could neither appreciate his genius nor reward his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">88</span> -courage, spent in voluntary exile five years of his -life and completed the Lusiad—that poem which, -when shipwrecked, he saved from destruction by swimming -and holding it above water, and that was ultimately -to meet with the worse fate of being rendered -into another language by Fanshaw. It was here that the -English displayed the surreptitious boldness of carrying -away, by the power of arms, from Portuguese custody, -a missionary who had been guilty of the bad -manners and overt nonsense of offending people not -his own, by a refusal of compliance with a very ordinary -custom, on the occasion of a catholic procession, -at a time when the authorities and the greater part -of the population were witnessing a boat regatta in -their harbor; and it was at the outer barrier of Macao, -that its governor, a few years ago, while taking -an evening ride with one of his aids, was cut to -pieces by the revengeful Chinamen, because of his -having caused a road to be made through one of their -burial-places in the vicinity.</p> - -<p>On anchoring, a number of us paid a visit to the -shore, which was some distance, in a Chinese “fast-boat,” -the ship’s boats being seldom used in those -countries, both because of a sanitary regard for a -ship’s company, who would suffer from long rows -under a new and sickly sun, and because the Chinese -conveyances are scarcely the tax of a song: a -“fast-boat,” with a crew of three or four rowers, -which also serves as the floating habitation of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">89</span> -owner and a family composed of as many more, can -be employed for constant attendance on a man-of-war -for a very small number of dollars per month. They -are always at hand; when not going they are made -fast astern, and when triangulating between Whampoa, -Macao, and Hong-Kong, they follow with Ruth -and Naomi constancy. Will we forget you, old Ashing?—with -your punctuality and good-natured readiness, -whether disturbed at your chow-chow, or called -at late hour of the night? Then, too, your ever -equable philosophy; the Irish pilot knew the rocks -in the channel well, especially when he thumped on -top of one; but your foresight, far surpassing his, -always told us, in answer to the question, “Can you -take us off?”—“Supposee too much no good wind, no -can catchee ship: Supposee no too muchee bad wind, -can catchee ship,”—which was so solacing. The -name “fast-boat” is a misnomer, except when chased -by a good wind, and then they move through the -water, impelled by their large mat-sails, with great -rapidity. They are built in a wedge-like shape, generally -some twenty feet long, with a small indented -place with seats under matting for their passengers, -and movable decks, below which the crew stretch -themselves to sleep. Since the days of the “old -woman who lived in a shoe,” nothing can be found -which has been made to contain more human beings -in the same space than a Chinese fast, or tanka boat, -besides having room for cooking purposes, a water<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">90</span>tank, -a spare spar, and a small altar, in whose front -a joss-stick kept burning propitiates their tutelar -deity. Ye pampered denizens of the crowded city, -upon whose elbows the bricks and mortar of more -plebeian neighbors crowd too close, go and learn of -those human bees of the world, economy of space.</p> - -<p>The water becomes so shoal before reaching the -stone pier, that the little vessel lowers sail and drops -anchor—this shoalness is the result of that want of -force or energy, which, shown in the decline of Goa, -could not maintain the fortifications of Point de Galle -after building them, and which from sudden and unhealthy -culmination, has marked the downfall of all -the Portuguese possessions in the East.</p> - -<p>We were encompassed by tanka-boats—so named -from their resemblance in shape to an egg—a great -number of which they could scarcely contain. Their -maiden proprietors, with their pretty teeth, big nankeen -breeches, nicely-plaited hair, small bare feet and -braceleted wrists, at once set up the cry, “Takee my -boatee!—takee my boatee!” Some one having taken -the cockle-shell barge of Atti, and some other that -of Aqui, a few moves of the powerful skull of the Celestial -Charon at the stern, as her small feet step back -and forth on a neatly-scoured miniature platform, and -a few pulls at the sweep-oar of the Celestial Charon -in the bow, and the boat now is in the sand of the -beach. One of the maidens, with none of the aversion -of the feline species, steps over into the water,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">91</span> -arranges a small cricket-bridge, and balance-pole of -bamboo, and with the right hand of fellowship helps -you up on the nice stone jutty. Up, you walk to -Franck’s hotel, on the wide and level praya, leading -to the circular promenade on which the Rip Van -Winkle population, when the hot sun is nearly down, -go to take their ante-supper walk and evening airing.</p> - -<p>On the 18th of April we left the anchorage of the -old Portuguese city, and started for our first visit to -the anchorage of Canton for ships drawing twenty -feet of water. We stood across the wide and turbid -estuary of the Pekiang, and about twelve o’clock we -reached the Bocca Tigris—the proper mouth of the -Canton river—and passed the forts of the Bogue, -that the English ships Andromache, Imogen, and -others, handled so badly as they held on their way -up to their great city. We were detained some time -before reaching here, by having towed under an itinerant -fast-boat who had made fast astern. It took -some time to right his boat, bail her, and take off the -crew who huddled on her keel. The fellow was -attempting to smuggle salt which made his boat too -deep. He afterward fell into the hands of some of -the river pirates who infest the waters of China. We -ran through fish-stakes innumerable, passed pagodas—those -lofty, circular, terraced piles of brick and -porcelain, which some of the Chinamen tell you were -built to mark the commencement of learning and civilization -with them, and others that they keep off<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">92</span> -evil spirits from the country visible from their tops—and -at three o’clock were moored in Whampoa Reach, -surrounded by merchant-ships of all nations; from the -mountainous old East Indiaman, to the (cynosure of -all) magnificent American clippers. ’Tis here, of all the -world, in a limited space, that the alpha and omega -of naval architecture are to be seen—the “Flying -Cloud,” the “Sea Serpent,” and the Chinese salt-junk.</p> - -<p>After chartering a Peruvian-built bark as a coal-ship -for the squadron, and ordering two officers to -her, allowing those of the Mississippi to make a hurried -visit to Canton, and shipping about forty Chinese -coolies, whose names puzzled the purser to enter, we -returned to Macao and then to Hong-Kong. On the -27th April we left the latter place for the more northern -port of Shanghae, where the steam-frigate Susquehanna -awaited the arrival of the commodore, who -proposed making her his flag-ship because of her noble -spaciousness. We went out by the Lymoon passage, -and with the ship deeply laden with coal, staggered -along up the Formosa channel. For a few days -we had a mist so thick that it precipitated in rain, -and afterward a fog so thick that we ran slowly and -cautiously not to go over Chinese fishermen, and also -to take soundings, for which purpose the engines were -stopped at intervals. Our band played at intervals: -the English-coast pilot on board had a Kanaka servant -with him; this fellow would listen to the music -with much interest and seem delighted: the Chinese<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">93</span> -cooley would move about the deck the while, apparently -perfectly unconscious of, or indifferent to the -sweet strains, or if he observed at all, his smooth and -sinister face looked his disapproval of such a barbarian -noise.</p> - -<p>Our first of May suggested anything else but floral -association. It was cold and raw; blowing fresh, and -a heavy head-sea, which, during the night, smashed in -the port side of the head-rail of the ship; deck wet, -sky overcast; no observations, to determine our position -could be taken; poor little land-birds, ejected -from domicil, were perched in the rigging, too much -benumbed to work their passage, and around were -small junks of the Chinaman, “laying-to,” with basket-drags -from head and stern, like floating anchors.</p> - -<p>On the 3d, we entered the mouth of the Yang-tse-kiang—it -being remembered that <i>kiang</i> is the Chinese -for river. The water is as muddy as that of the -Pekiang. Just inside of an island, bearing the euphonic -name of the orientalist and quasi-missionary, -Gutzlaff, we got an English pilot who gave us the first -intelligence of the doings of the rebel army, up the -river, in the vicinity of Nanking. The navigation of -the Yang-tse is exceedingly intricate, owing to hard -and shifting bars, which rendered it necessary for a -ship of our size to proceed with much caution. The -shores were low and white, and resembled the coast -of Florida. Shanghae is situated on the Woosung -river, which empties into the Yang-tse at the village<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">94</span> -of Woosung, and after reaching the village and anchorage -for opium-ships, you run off to the left and -southwest for Shanghae. Nothing can exceed the -closeness and thoroughness of the cultivation visible -on the bank on both sides of this tortuous stream; it -looks like one great market-garden, and the wonderful -industry of its cultivators, says to the black soil, -month in and month out, “Give! give!” The unremitting -toil, and the uninterrupted use of ammoniacal -fertilizers never allow the earth to be weary of well-doing. -No wonder agriculture is so fostered by the -government, and that once a year the imperial cousin, -&c., to the planetary system, should, by holding the -plough in the field, attempt the impossibility of adding -dignity to the labors of the husbandman.</p> - -<p>A few hours’ run after entering the Woosung, enabled -us to descry the Susquehanna and the Plymouth, -the bend of the river, and the low and level paddy-fields, -causing them to appear as if enclosed by dry -land. The salute of the former came to us over any -quantity of waving rice. The river, at the city, is -quite narrow, and we anchored in the Chow-chow -water—which, with the upturned mud, curls and eddies -and turns back and runs on, causing the ships -to swing every way at their anchors—just opposite -to the numerous houses of the foreign residents, and -a short row from a stone quay and level walk which -imported cockneyism calls “<i>the Bund</i>.”</p> - -<p>Below where we lay, across Suchow creek, was to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">95</span> -be seen a neat little protestant church, with a small -tower, and the unpretending residences of the missionaries -of protestant churches, whose unremitting -labors, and social deprivation, deserve better reward -than the mere partial success with which they meet. -Above the consulate and hongs, commences the city, -its walls approaching the water’s edge, and running -some distance back. A short walk through a crowded -and muddy suburb and you enter one of the gates. The -imperial authority, the Taoutae, fearing an attack -from the adherents of the rebel chief, Thae-ping-Wang, -had fortified the place, and most of the silk and other -stores were closed. Previous to our arrival they -had experienced the shock of an earthquake, which -had shaken down a wall or so. I passed through the -narrow, sloppy streets, but the scene was far from -the animated one that we had seen in Canton. The -population, whose complexions and persons are better -than in the more southern districts, were evidently -apprehensive that there was soon to be “too muchee -bobbery,” or fighting. But nothing can restrain the -lower classes from their insatiate vice of gambling. -In the tea-gardens, from morning to night, it was to -be seen going on; while the “sing-song” theatres -were amusing others. At the entrance to a joss-house, -and along the streets, were to be seen the horrible -ghastly emaciation, and foamy mouths, of dead -and dying beggars, in filthy tattered rags, to whose -presence the passers-by seemed utterly indifferent.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">96</span> -Some had dragged themselves to die on the flag-stone -crossing of a small stream, that they might possibly -get interment; it being said that any one who touched -them, is compelled to have this office performed.</p> - -<p>The occupants of the foreign hongs had formed a -volunteer, or patrol company, for the custody of -their property, and under the protection of the guns -of quite a large English and American force, were -having their amusement, indifferent to Taontae, or -Thae-ping-wang. Dinners were given at the consulates, -<i>a la Chinois</i>, at which the American and English -envoys were present; and at night parties were given -by these functionaries, and well attended; or a neatly-printed -bill with “Imperial Theatre, Shanghai, and -<i>Vivant Regina and Princess</i>,” requested the honor -of your Company, to witness the dramatic doings of -“her majesty’s servants,” of the English brig “Lily.” -Then, too, there was the “spring meeting of the -Shanghae races,” which were interesting, and ridiculous -too, at times. The course was not very extensive, -but quite well thronged, here and there a Tartar -soldier being visible in the crowd. The races, in -which I noticed Mr. T’hën Tih had entered his steed -Qui-Qui, were:—</p> - -<div class="less"> - -<p>1.—<span class="smcap">The Griffin’s Handicap.</span>—For <i>China Ponies</i> that have run -in the <i>Griffin’s Plate</i>, and whose owners have subscribed to this Handicap; -the winner of the <i>Griffin’s Plate</i> excluded.—Heats once round -from the Willows.—Ponies to be handicapped after the <i>Griffin’s Plate</i> -is run for.—Subscribers may start two Ponies for one subscription. -Prizes from amount subscribed to be appropriated to 1st, 2d, and 3d<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">97</span> -Ponies in six shares.—The winner of the race to receive 3 shares, the -second Pony 2, and the third 1 share.—The second and third Ponies -in the last heat to be the winners of the second and third prizes.—Entrance -$10, and half forfeit if declared on or before 8th April.</p> - -<p>2.—<span class="smcap">The Tsatlee Cup</span>,—Value $75, for all <i>Ponies</i>.—Entrance $3 -each to second Pony.—Weight for inches.—Winner of the <i>Manilla -Cup</i> to carry 14 lbs. extra and of <i>Chaa-sée Cup</i> 7 lbs. extra.—Twice -round.</p> - -<p>3.—<span class="smcap">The Pang-king-pang Stakes</span>,—Of $2 each with $20 from -the fund for <i>China Ponies</i>.—Weight for inches.—Once round from -the Willows.</p> - -<p>4.—<span class="smcap">The Ladies’ Purse and Plate</span>,—Value $50 for all <i>Ponies</i>.—Entrance -$3 each.—Weight for inches.—Twice round.</p> - -<p>5.—<span class="smcap">The Persian Cup</span>,—Value $50.—Second Pony $15.—For -<i>China Ponies</i> only.—Entrance $3 each.—Weight for Inches.—Once -round from the Willows.</p> - -<p>6.—<span class="smcap">The Forced Handicap</span>,—For all <i>Winning Ponies</i> at this -meeting to be handicapped by the Stewards.—Entrance $3 each with -$30 from the fund.—Once round and a distance.</p> - -<p>7.—<span class="smcap">The Celestial Stakes</span>,—For all <i>Beaten China Ponies</i> at -this meeting.—Entrance $3 with $30 from the fund. Weight for -inches.—Once round and a distance.</p> - -<p>8.—<span class="smcap">The Native Purse</span>,—Value 15,000 cash, for all <i>Ponies</i>.—Indian -and Chinese riders.—Post entries to the clerk of the course. -No entrance fee.—Twice round.</p></div> - -<p>The native horses are small, and the native saddles -clumsy in the extreme, with their large iron-lever -stirrups; and when John Chinaman, perched like a -monkey on his shoulders, pushed his pony for the -purse, the scene was exceedingly ludicrous. Fourteen -cash make one cent, so the amount won in the -last race was not so great as one would think.</p> - -<p>On the 9th the commodore, with the customary -manning of yards and salute, shifted his broad pennant<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">98</span> -from the Mississippi to the Susquehanna, and the -British war-steamer “Hermes,” which had been to -take the English plenipotentiary to the camp of the -rebel chief below Nanking, returned with that functionary, -whose mission had not proven propitious. -Her officers stated that on their way up the river, -near Cheang-foo, they were fired at by the rebel -forces, and above Nanking by the imperial troops, but -without injury. In an interview with them, the English -assured them that their visit was both friendly -and neutral. The rebels expressed regret at the -firing, and said they would send down an order to -prevent its recurrence. There being a difficulty between -Thae-ping-wang and the English embassador, -Sir S. George Bonham, as to the preliminaries of an interview, -the “favorite of Heaven” not willing to make -any concessions, the steamer returned, and was again -fired at, one shot striking her hull, and another the -main-yard and backstay. The “Hermes” let slip at -them, knocking over some of their guns, and passed -on. At a place called Silver island they stopped to -take a look at the idols the rebels had broken, when -one of their generals came down with an apologetic -letter about the firing; it was a mistake. This -general said himself, and those united with him in -the struggle, were protestant Christians; that they -did not tolerate opium, tobacco, or profanity, and -worshipped not idols, but the one God. If they were -successful they would open Nanking to all the world.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">99</span> -At that time a great deal of aid to the labors of -the missionaries in China, was predicted from their -movements, which subsequent events have not realized.</p> - -<p>The storeship “Supply,” of our squadron having -gotten ashore at the mouth of the Yang-tse -on the “North bank,” we were suddenly despatched -to her assistance, but discovered she had gotten -afloat before the Mississippi reached her anchorage. -Below Woosung we took in tow a large teak-wood -junk, manned by Chinamen, and laden with coal, -which we were to take aboard after getting over -the bar. On the 18th, while waiting for the Susquehanna, -the tide changed, the old junk drifted -into us threatening to crush our quarter-boats, so she -was cast off. The ancient pig-tail mariner who presided -over her crew and helm, though conscious of -drifting each moment on a dangerous bank, would not -cast his anchor, because, as it was afterward believed, -he thought the “fanquis” of the American -steamer were going to tow him out to sea; the consequence -was, the wind and sea having increased, the -junk struck, and the tide soon falling, she was hard -and fast. Boats were sent to her assistance, but the -breakers prevented her from being reached, before a -late hour of the night, when the officer sent with the -boats seeing it impossible to get her off, and seven -feet water in her hold, she was abandoned, and the -crew brought aboard of the Mississippi. A dismal -looking set of Celestial scape-graces they were, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">100</span> -presented a motley group as they sat around their -pig-tail Falconer encased in an antique fur cape, -jabbering about their escape. Before our boats were -able to reach them, they had illuminated their cabin -altar, burned perfumed sticks and paper, and chin-chinned -Joss with great vim, but their stupid little -tutelar deity not having responded to their prayers -for assistance, they became indignant, tossed Mr. Joss, -altar, perfumed sticks, and all, overboard, and betook -themselves to the more sensible thing of building a -raft of bamboos and their huge mat sails, with which -they proposed, when the sea went down, to risk their -safety. They were sent back to Shanghae by the -pilot-boat, having subjected Uncle Sam to some three -thousand dollars’ loss, besides nearly all of the crew -of the boat, that slept aboard of her, had the “junk -fever,” and one afterward died from it.</p> - -<p>The weather continuing very rough, the wind at -times changing in five minutes to the opposite point -of the compass, we laid under Saddle island for two -or three days, when, with the “Supply” in tow, and -in company with the now flag-ship, “Susquehanna,” -on the 23d of May, we took our departure for the -Loo-Choo islands.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">101</span></p> - - - - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</h2> - - -<p>The island of Great Loo-Choo appeared in sight -after a run of three days from China. Previous to -reaching there, the commodore issued a general order, -requiring look-outs to be kept in port as at sea, during -the stay of the squadron among the Japanese islands, -and all movements of vessels or collections of -boats were to be reported to the officer of the deck, -and by him to his superiors; sentinels with loaded -musket and six rounds of ball-cartridges; general -and division exercises of great guns and small arms, -with artillery and infantry drills, were to be prosecuted -with increased diligence; and in navigating -those seas attention was to be given more to precautionary -measures to secure safety than to accomplish -quick passages. Another general order stated -that the countries which our ships were then about to -visit were inhabited by a singular people, whose policy -it had been, during more than two centuries, to decline -all intercourse with strangers, to which end they -had resorted to acts at variance and irreconcilable -with the practices of civilized nations; that one of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">102</span> -the duties enjoined upon the commodore, was to endeavor -to overcome these prejudices by a course of -friendly and conciliatory measures, and to strive to -convince the Japanese that we went among them as -friends, though assuring them of our determination -never to submit to insult or wrong, or desist from -claiming and securing those rights of hospitality -justly due from one nation to another. In pursuance -of these objects, every individual under his command -should exercise the greatest prudence, forbearance, -and discretion, in their intercourse with all with whom -they came in contact. While distrustful of their apparent -friendship and sincerity, and guarding against -treachery, they would extend toward those oppressed -and misgoverned people every kindness and protection, -and would be careful not to molest, injure, or -maltreat them in any manner; that it would be in -time to resort to extreme measures when every friendly -demonstration should have been exhausted. The -commodore also stated that his instructions directed -him to forbid in the most positive manner the acceptance -of presents or supplies, unless those who proffered -them, were prepared to receive adequate returns.</p> - -<p>That we might be the better prepared, in addition -to the great-gun exercises, drill, &c., when “friendly -demonstrations should have been exhausted,” the -commander-in-chief provided himself with an octagonal -marquee made of red, white, and blue, caused -ambulances to be made in the different ships, and di<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">103</span>rected -that all boats of the squadron when prepared -for distant or active service, were to be armed and -provided, so as to be ready at a sudden call, with -anchor and cable, two spare oars, masts, sails, and -rigging, spun-yarn and seizing stuff, four battle-axes, -a hand-saw for each division, one wood-axe, spikes, bag -with hatchet, sheet-lead and nails, spy-glass for commanding -officer of division, musket, pistol, and cutlass -for each man, cartouch-box filled, screw-driver and -nipple-wrench, cleaning rags and oil for each boat, a -crow-bar, two blue-lights, two rockets, candles primed, -and match-ropes in tin-box, lantern and materials for -getting light, boat’s colors and signals, compass, -bread, water and provisions, oar-muffles, bandages and -laudanum for wounded, lead-lines, small cooking apparatus -for largest boat, flash-pans, and awnings.</p> - -<p>On getting to our anchorage we felt as if we had -arrived at the outer door of the hermetic empire that -we had come so far to deal with, we being then only -about eight or nine days’ sail from the bay of Yedo. -As Loo-Choo had no doubt been selected as the base -of operation, upon the principle of reaching the old -hen by first going at the chickens, it will be as well -to give an outline of its history.</p> - -<p>The Loo-Choo islands—pronounced in Japanese -Lu Kiu—are a dependency of the Japanese prince -of Satsuma. There are thirty-six islands in all, -which are divided in three groups: the Northern or -Sanbok, the Middle or Tchusan, and the Southern or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">104</span> -Sannan group. According to the belief of the inhabitants, -the origin of the people of these islands, like -that of nearly all the orientals, is divine, and nowise -of the Lord Monboddo theory. Their annals -always commence with a series of gods, then follow a -race of demi-gods, and at last come human beings. -To their great veneration for their ancestors, may -probably be ascribed these conceits. A son reveres -his father beyond everything else; this father likewise -revered his progenitor. So the grandfather gets all -the love of his son, with a large share of that of the -grandson through the grandson’s father. A thousand -years in Loo-Choo chronology is a small matter: they -note the existence of their islands for seventeen thousand -years, that is agreeably to what the Chinaman -would call their “fash;” so compound interest for a -thousand years in filial veneration gives divinity of -origin to their nation.</p> - -<p>The Chinese emperor, Kang-hy, in 1719, sent a -man of great attainments to Loo-Choo. The report of -this learned pig-tail, upon what he saw in the country, -was translated by Father Gaubil of the French -Jesuit mission in China, whose records probably contain -more data relative to the ancient history of the -East, than is to be found in any other mission.</p> - -<p>The Chinese histories first make mention of Loo-Choo -in the year 605. In that year a party of Chinese -visited the islands, and on their return brought -with them some of the natives, who were taken to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">105</span> -Pekin. Here they were recognised as Loo-Chooans -by the Japanese embassador at that court. They are -described as being very ignorant and very poor. The -emperor Yang-ti, however, sent embassadors and interpreters -to claim sovereignty over the islands, but -the king of Loo-Choo rejected all proposals of the -kind, whereupon the emperor sent ten thousand men -from Fokien to invade the islands. They landed on -the island of Great Loo-Choo, and were bravely met -by the king at the head of his army. A pitched battle -was fought, in which the king was slain, when the -Chinese triumphed, taking five thousand prisoners, -and sacking the cities of Sheudi and Napa. The Chinese -chronicle the fact that the Loo-Chooans were so -lamentably destitute that they did not even know the -use of “chop-sticks!” and also state that they sometimes -sacrificed human beings at their religious festival, -which barbarous custom was at once abolished.</p> - -<p>The Chinese emperors of the Ting dynasty, and -also those of the succeeding Song dynasty, did not -exercise sovereign rights over the islands. A trade -had sprung up between the two countries, and all -went as well as a junk could sail, until 1291, when -the emperor Chit-su, of the Eeven dynasty, resolved -upon their conquest. He fitted out and despatched -an armed expedition for this purpose, but the Tartars -and Chinese, both disgusted and disheartened by the -recollection of their terrible failure in a similar attempt -on Japan, after a short absence returned to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">106</span> -port of Fokien, not having gone in sight of the islands. -The history of the islands speaks of constant civil -war, and bloody battles. In 1372 the largest island -was divided into three kingdoms. Hong-u, the first -of the Ming dynasty, sent an embassador to Loo-Choo, -whose diplomacy was such as to induce T’say-too, -one of the kings who resided at Sheudi, to declare -himself tributary to China. His example was followed -by the two other kings, and peace was restored. -Thirty-six Chinese families, by order or with the -consent of the emperor, emigrated to the island, who -received their “quarter sections” from the king, and -from that time dates the commencement of civilization -and Chinese influence. Young men from Loo-Choo -were annually sent to Nanking, to learn the Chinese -language at the expense of the emperor; and presents -were exchanged by the sovereigns. At the -death of T’say-too the emperor sent his son to preside -over the realm. Loo-Choo then became prosperous, -trade sprang up; and during the reign of Chang-pat-shi, -the great grandson of T’say-too, the three kingdoms -of the islands were re-united, and the royal family -assumed the title of Chang.</p> - -<p>Revolutions and civil wars raged from time to time, -and a feudal system was established. Commerce with -China increased, and the Chinese complained of the -scarcity of silver and copper coin in the provinces -Tshe-kiang and Fokien, on account of the exportation -of it to Loo-Choo. In 1500, the Loo-Choo people<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">107</span> -sent a trading junk to Malacca, many to the island -of Formosa, and a great many to the southern ports -of Japan. During the reign of Chang-tching, Loo-Choo -became the market where Japanese and Chinese -merchants met to exchange their goods. Commerce -became brisk, and the constant quarrels between -the Chinese and Japanese gave the king an -opportunity to extend his influence. The extensive -piratical operations of the Japanese, about the year -1525, having their headquarters at Ke-long-chan, on -the island of Formosa, compelled the emperor of -China to have recourse to the king of Loo-Choo as -mediator between him and the emperor of Japan. -The mediation did not suppress the piracy complained -of, though backed by large squadrons sent to -sea by the celestial emperor, to destroy the pirates, -over whom his imperial confrere of Japan professed -to have no control; indeed, the Japan monarch -alleged that there were many Chinese among these -outlaws.</p> - -<p>The ascent of the throne of Japan by Taico Sama, -proved an event of great importance. He was a man -of great ability and shrewdness, and attained his -high position by his own exertions, and not by birth. -He put an end to feudalism in his country, and ruled -with an iron hand. He conceived the idea of using -to advantage the terror which prevailed because of -the Japanese pirates, and the prestige which their -daring acts had acquired. His ambition was as un<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">108</span>bounded -as his belief in manifest destiny, and his -object was the conquest of China. He despatched -officers to the king of Loo-Choo, ordering him to declare -his kingdom tributary to Japan; and similar -pressing invitations were sent to the governors of the -Philippine islands, the king of Siam, &c. The sovereign -of Loo-Choo temporized, and finally refused to -submit, relying on Chinese protection. He informed -the emperor of the plans of Taico Sama; a league of -all these princes was formed against him, when Taico -Sama invaded that fighting-ground between the Chinese -and Japanese—the peninsula of Corea. Taico’s -main object was attained. He reaped all the benefit -proceeding from piracies licensed by him or enlisted -in his service, and thus giving it the character of a -regular warfare. He smothered civil war in its -germ, and sent away his most influential opponents -to fight in the Corea, not Crimea. Corea was then -the safety-valve for ardent spirits against the government, -as France keeps its Algiers, or keeps up a -foreign war. Taico “savaad” a great deal.</p> - -<p>During the reign of Taico, Loo-Choo suffered severely; -trade was brought to a stand still, and, like -a more modern nation that Americans wot of, Japan -proclaimed herself mistress of the sea. The king of -the islands, however, managed to send an embassador -to China, who was received with great magnificence by -the emperor, both on account of the dangers he had -encountered from the voyage in the junk, and the risk<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">109</span> -incurred of falling into the hands of the pirates who -swarmed in those seas.</p> - -<p>After the death of Taico, and during the regency -of Iyeyas for his son, in 1612, a Loo-Chooan chief, -dissatisfied with his king, armed three thousand men -in Japan, with whom he returned to his own country -and made the kingdom by force tributary to Japan, -that is, to the province of Satsuma. He took back -the king a prisoner. The fallen sovereign of Loo-Choo -behaved with so much dignity, that two years -afterward he was generously sent back, and reinstated -on his throne, remaining still a true friend to the -emperor of China.</p> - -<p>Commercial relations, but on a small scale, existed -with China and Japan, when, in 1708, all the plagues -came down on Loo-Choo: it was desolated by the -ravages of terrible typhoons; the crops failed; cattle -died; the king’s palace was entirely consumed by -fire; and frightful epidemics prevailed among the -natives. Cang-hi, the emperor of China, sent them -assistance, and his embassador, Supas Kang, in his -report, according to the translation in French, says -the language of these people is so mixed up of Chinese -and Japanese, that it forms almost a distinct -language. He finds no wild animals or venomous -reptiles or insects, but much fish. Their exports at -that time consisted of sulphur, a peculiar red dye stuff, -dried fish, saki, and timber, principally cedar-wood.</p> - -<p>The prospect, as you approach Great Loo-Choo<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">110</span> -island, clothed in masses of deep green, is very delightful -to the eye, after it has been resting for days on -the slate-colored ocean. We reached our anchorage -late in the afternoon in the midst of a heavy rain, on -the 26th of May. The roadstead off the city of Napa -is enclosed by large fields of coral, and the entrances -through the reefs are quite narrow. When we had -gotten inside, large numbers of the natives appeared -on the shore, no doubt greatly astonished at the sight -of the two large steamers; and shortly after, the sloop-of-war -“Saratoga,” from Hong Kong, also arrived. -In a short time a rude dug-out boat came off to our -ship, containing some officer, but as the flag-ship had -previously made signal forbidding any communication -with shore, he was directed to that ship—now the -Susquehanna. He wished to know what we wanted -in their harbor; the answer to this was, “Ask no -questions and I’ll tell you,” &c. He was given to -understand that he was rather too “small pigeon” -for our commodore to see, and that he must go back -and send off their “first chop” mandarin, as we could -hold no intercourse with any other. This was trying -on the <i>dignitate</i> early, but nothing else will answer -in the East; any concession of equality, or manifestation -of too great courtesy, would be at once construed -by them into an admission of their superiority.</p> - -<p>Our stripes and stars were a new sight to them, -and the sudden advent of our ships in their waters -was more than they could comprehend. At night<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">111</span> -their chief men took counsel together, and came to -the conclusion that we were in want of <i>kam-yum-muru</i>, -or something to eat; so the next morning off -came, in a string of canoes, bullocks, pigs, chickens, -and vegetables, as presents. These were sent back -with the information that we could not receive presents. -Become quite uneasy about our presence, they -consented to their prince regent’s coming off to the -flag-ship, which he did at an appointed hour, with a -<i>suite</i> in their canoes. He was well received, and -given the cheap salute of three guns, which small -compliment he would have preferred to dispense -with. They were shown over the ship: the engines -were moved for their observation, and they -evinced immense surprise: some of the attendants, -however, when the great pistons moved, bolted up -the hatchway and made for their boats. The higher -officers were quite dignified in appearance and demeanor, -but the lower class showed a simplicity most -childish. They giggled at a looking-glass, and continually -felt behind it; a sight through a spy-glass -was most puzzling; a wine-glass they held tightly -with both hands, and elevated to the forehead before -tasting contents; a watch was most miraculous, and -as they gathered round they were all wonderment, -and imitated its “tick tick;” when the works were -exposed to them, their exclamation of surprise was -more like one of pain. The contents of the purser’s -chest when exposed to them they seemed to think quite<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">112</span> -shiny and pretty, but evidently were unaware of the -value or use of eagles, dollar-pieces, &c. On a chart -of the world, in the cabin one day, I showed a number -of them their country, and then designating my -own, traced the track by which we had come to their -island, which they appeared to comprehend. It was -quite amusing to see the rapidity with which they -would let go the polar handles of a small galvanic -battery, which much persuasion and the example of -some of the men were first required to get them to -take hold of, as soon as it was slightly charged by -pushing in the needles. They would drop their hands -and rub their wrists in amazement.</p> - -<p>The dress of the Loo-Chooans consists of a loose -gown reaching to the knees, with large sleeves, made -of a species of grass-cloth, of their own manufacture, -and confined at the waist with a wide sash, pendent -from which they wear a tobacco-pouch and small pipe. -After the interchange of salutations, the pipe is always -produced. On their feet, which are generally -bare, they wear a coarse straw sandal, secured by a -strap passing through next to the great toe, and one -around the instep. Like the Japanese, the better -classes carry a fan; but only the high officers wear a -hat, made of crape, the first class yellow, and the -second red—more particularly as a badge of authority. -Their hair is brushed up all around the head, -and its ends secured in a knot on the summit of the -head, transfixed by silver or brass pins.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_112f.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">LOO CHOO.</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">113</span></p> - -<p>We knew that Loo-Choo had been visited in 1846 -by a French missionary, Forcade, who had subsequently -left, but were rather surprised on anchoring -abreast of a tall and singular formation, called in the -surveys of the “Alceste and Lyra,” “Capstan rock,” -but which more nearly resembles a large old barn, -with dark thatched roof, and huge projecting eaves—to -see flying from its summit the English flag. We -afterward ascertained that it was a flag giving protection -to Dr. Bettelheim, a converted Hungarian Jew, -who had married an English lady, and had been sent by -an English naval mission society, some seven years before, -as a missionary to Loo-Choo. He did not appear -to be a man whose disposition and temperament were -calculated to afford him success in his labors, although -he had persevered in his study of their language until -he could preach to the natives in it, and had occupied -his lonely position for years, with no other Christian -faces than those of his wife and three children. The -Loo-Chooans had tried every way to get rid of him; -they had addressed, through the Chinese, to the English -minister, Lord Palmerston, remonstrances against -the mission, which invariably closed with the petition -that he would remove Bettelheim. They may not -have known Vattel, but they urged with much energy -his doctrine, that a missionary should leave a country -when his presence was not agreeable to its people. -But the Dr. held his ground, though he was made to -undergo some rather rough treatment. Himself, by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">114</span> -his professional skill in the healing art, and his wife, -during the prevalence of the smallpox, had been very -attentive to the people, which caused the authorities -to become quite jealous. They were followed and -hooted at in the streets, and finally, Mrs. B. during a -walk, was forcibly separated from her husband, and -himself beaten. The British war-steamer “Sphynx” -happened to pay a visit to Napa not long afterward, -when the authorities made ample apology for the offence, -and promised better things in future. They -removed his servants, or constantly changed them. -They erected spy-houses opposite the gate of his residence, -which were constantly attended. If he preached -to a crowd in the street, or market-place, at a signal -from the Japanese police on the island, his auditors -all ran away. If he distributed tracts in their language -at night, the next morning, the police brought -them back to him, carefully tied up.</p> - -<p>They were much disturbed by our presence, and if -our sails were loosened to dry, they wondered why -we did not sail away. We made a reconnoissance of -their harbor to ascertain or confirm the accuracy of -the surveys of Beechy, and the flag, or station staffs, -we erected on shore for this purpose, around which -numbers would gather, sorely perplexed them.</p> - -<p>The principal town of Napa, containing about twenty -thousand inhabitants, is located behind the rising beach, -and can not be seen well from the shipping. Its <i>kiang</i>, -or river, forms a harbor for junks from China, Japan,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">115</span> -and their coasting trade, and small boats only. The -houses of the town which are low, are enclosed in -walls of cyclopean masonry, built mostly without any -cement, of coral rock. Over these the limbs of the -banyan project, and they are mostly fringed on top -by a growth of cactus. The entrances to their dwellings -are from narrow alleys running from the streets, -and concealed by an abrupt elbow turn, so unless you -notice close, you will scarcely observe the doorway. -The streets are narrow, and laid out like those of -Peking, and unpaved, and the reception that we met with -on walking them, was anything but sociable; not that -the mass of the people, who, after getting a little over -the trepidation which our unexpected arrival produced, -were not inclined to be friendly, but because of the -surveillance of their suspicious and jealous officials. -On our approach the shops were closed, and the way -in front entirely deserted, while as soon as you had -passed, there was a great throng gazing at you from -the rear. Those weaving in the open air with their -rude looms seizing their children did flee. Old women, -awfully ugly, with tattoed hands, hair piled on their -heads like a greasy mop, invested with a single salt-sack-looking -garment of exceeding brevity, if you -came upon them would betake themselves to flight, -leaving the sharks’ meat, or vegetables, which they -might have for sale, in the market-place, or else bury -their faces in their dirty bluish tattoed hands, and so -remain until you had passed. We were forced to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">116</span> -conclude that our presence was as moving as that of -Mr. Nicodemus in the Spectre Bridegroom; or else -that an American naval officer, if he caused those old -sycoraxes to shun him, must be ugly enough to scare -a horse from his oats.</p> - -<p>The origin of the married women tattoeing their -hands, according to Loo-Chooan story literally rendered, -is this: A husband going on a journey had -an agreement with his wife for three years, but contrary -to the agreement, ten years passed before his -return. Her parents repeatedly proposed that she -should change, and marry again, but she earnestly -defended her chastity, saying, “A woman should not -marry two husbands!” Still gainsaying, with blows -they were forcing her to marry. She invented a -stratagem—she painted her fingers with ink; she -spoiled her beauty. Hence it must be, they say, that -all women on marrying tattoe their hands.</p> - -<p>In our walks we always had the unsolicited company -of some government deputies. If you motioned them -about anything, they were exceedingly addicted to -salaaming, by bowing and raising their hands to their -heads, but they remained exactly where they were. -A rare and beautiful flower attracted your attention, -and you wished to look closer at it, your attendant -functionary pantomimically trusts that you will not -enter, but passing through the gate, or scaling the -coral wall, in a few minutes he will present you with -one of the novel flowers. Should one of your company<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">117</span> -accidentally or intentionally slip out of the sight of -these impromptu attendants, they appear most mentally -troubled till he reappears.</p> - -<p>The policy pursued with these people was a mild -but firm one. They were asked for a house on shore -that might be used as a place for our sick to recruit. -They declined; and a few days after one of our officers -and some men occupied one of their buildings in -the town of Tumai, divided from Napa by a small -stream. This building had been used as a kind of -town-hall, where the chiefs assembled in council, carried -thither in sedan-chairs, encased in ratan lattices, -and swung from a pole resting on the shoulders of -two serfs. The honesty of the natives was shown in -the security of clothes and everything else that might -be left out; even a boat’s anchor lost, and found by -them, was returned to this place, though they kept a -spy upon its American inmates night and day. Here, -while dining with the young officer in charge, I -“tried on,” with some of the more intelligent natives, -sentences in their language, from a vocabulary -which had been prepared for him, and with which he -had been able to negotiate for his daily supply of -chow-chow, and eatables for some of the ships. “Cha -tooti kwoo”—tea bring to me; and “Midzoo tooti -kwoo”—water bring to me; and similar simple sentences -they understood readily; but the attempt at -more complicate ones, in which the vowel sound is -dropped, rather awoke their risibles.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">118</span></p> - -<p>The authorities sent off protests against the further -occupancy of the house at Tumai, and requested that -we would vacate it. They stated it was the place -they had for assembling; it was the only place they -had for meeting together to debate their local affairs, -and it was also the place where their young were -taught. They also took the opportunity of mentioning -that the fertility of their island was not equal to -the wants of its population; and that every draft -upon them for live-stock, &c., was an oppression. In -this there was obvious dissimulation; because they -sent away to other countries a good deal of the produce -of their land, and a great deal as tribute, while -we paid well for whatever we got. The commodore -had notified them of his intention of going up to their -capital, Sheudi, distant some four miles from the anchorage, -to pay his respects to the prince-regent at -the palace; they did not covet the honor; they trusted -he would not confer it.</p> - -<p>Not far from Tumai are a number of the native -tombs, beautifully located on green hill-sides. They -are large, built in the form of a horse-shoe, with a cemented -dome fronted by a little court, into which you -descend by a flight of stone steps, and are kept -whitened with great assiduity by the surviving relatives. -The most attractive and romantic spots are -chosen for their location. Their reverence and care -for the homes of the dead, may well put to the blush,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">119</span> -the wickedness of Christian communities who make -streets through graves and graveyards.</p> - -<p>In a grove of pines, at Tumai, not far from the -landing-place, is a secluded spot, which appears to -have been set aside for the interment of foreigners. -Our ships buried some of our men and one officer -there. As soon as the graves are closed the authorities -cause them to be well built over, without charge, -in a parallelogram, with coral rock and cement, -leaving an inclination toward the feet that the rain -may run off. Any inscription that the friends please, -may either be imbedded in the masonry or erected at -the head, which will be respected and preserved by -the natives. On copper plates, tacked on wooden -crosses at the end of some of these tombs, I read:—</p> - -<p>“Wm. Hares, seaman in his Britannic majesty’s -ship, ‘Alceste,’ aged 21 years, lies buried here, October -16th, 1816. This monument was erected by the -king and inhabitants of this most hospitable island.”</p> - -<p>“Vive Jesus: † vive sa croix: Ci-Git Calland -(Pierre Juler), second chirurgien a bord de la corvette -de Roi la <i>Victoriense</i>; mort a bord le 16th Septembre, -1846.”</p> - -<p>“Ci-Git Le Corps Du R’d Mathieu Adnet, Pêre -Miss’re Apostolique, Fréres du Japon, Decedé le hier -J’et, 1848.”</p> - -<p>The Loo-Chooan manner of making salt is peculiar. -They clear acres of ground in the vicinity of the -water, and make it as level as possible. During the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">120</span> -extreme heat of the day men continue to throw into -the air, that it may descend on this level space, ladles -full of salt-water. Partial crystallization is thus produced, -which unites with the sand under foot, which, -being allowed to dry, is piled up aside, and afterward -the saline matter is washed from it, filtered through -straw into earthen vessels, and then evaporated by -heat. On these level places our marine, and boat-howitzer -divisions were usually landed for drilling -purposes.</p> - -<p>You see no wheeled vehicles on the island, and one -in the shape of an ambulance-cart which the commodore -had built, and once ashore there, is, no doubt, -the first that a Loo-Chooan ever looked on. Small -horses, with their untrimmed fetlocks, are the only -means of conveyance from the junks to the interior, of -whatever little merchandise they now consume. The -load is placed on a rude saddle secured by girth and -a crupper of rope enveloped in bamboo-rollers like -strung necklace; and the bridle, with its head-stall -of rope, has two small pieces of wood passing on -either side of the nostrils of the horse, with a cord -through them, by which he is controlled in place of -a bit.</p> - -<p>On the 6th of June, the commodore, with a suite -of officers, determined on paying an official visit to -the prince-regent, at his palace at Sheudi—a visit -which the authorities had vainly endeavored to get -indefinitely postponed. They did not understand<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">121</span> -these attentions: stretching wide their hands, they -said “America was a great nation; while Loo-Choo -was no larger than the points of the fingers scarcely -separated—what does America want with Loo-Choo?” -The escort, when landed and formed at Tumai, consisted -of two companies of marines in full dress—to -whom, for some purpose or other, six rounds of ball-cartridges -had been issued per man—two brass -pieces and fixed ammunition, manned by sailors, and -two full bands from the Susquehanna and Mississippi, -while in front were three tall fellows carrying the -American ensign. The rear was brought up by servants -carrying some presents consisting of arms and -calicoes sewed up in red cloth, and others with chow-chow -baskets. The march was over a well-paved and -graded road of coral rock. First we passed over a -large terrace overhung by enormous banyan-trees, -which fronted a very thick arched wall enclosing a -temple and the tomb of some of the royal family. A -tablet standing on a large pedestal near the step of -this terrace, in native characters, warns the peasantry -that when the sedan of any high functionary rests -here, that the lower classes must take the road to the -right. Sometimes we passed sugar-cane growing on -one side of the road, and on the other ingeniously-irrigated -paddy-fields were waving in green rice. The -road then ascended by a grade of about seven degrees, -quite a high ridge, from which the extended prospect -of cultivation was very fine indeed. The sun came<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">122</span> -down hot, though at times we walked under the shade -of thick and pretty bamboo-hedges. The sight was -a rare one to the peasantry; some, attracted by the -music and the novelty of uniform, left their work in -the fields and ran to the eminences on the roadside, -then others were alarmed and bolted; one fellow I -saw jump into a muddy stream, swim for it, and not -look back until he stood on the other side.</p> - -<p>We reached the street leading to the palace-grounds -about twelve o’clock. This was a wide one of nicely-rolled -gravel, and on either side were walls of much -height and thickness, showing smooth and expensive -masonry. In marching along this approach, we passed -under three roofed and detached gateways, built at -intervals across it. They had three distinct entrances, -the widest being in the centre, over which a red sign, -with Japanese characters in gilt, had this announcement: -“This is a small island, but observes the rules -of propriety; distinguished persons will pass through -the centre opening, others will go through those at -the sides.”</p> - -<p>On arriving at the main gate of the palace, a number -of the chiefs, in their yellow and red caps, were -there to receive us. Leaving the escort outside, the -commodore and suite of officers entered, and after -passing through successive courts, and up stone steps -alternately to the right and left, at a considerable -elevation from the street, the party was ushered into -the hall of audience. Here were a number of yellow<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">123</span> -and red-capped chiefs assembled. Chairs and tables -for each one of the guests were placed, and pipes, -tea, and cakes, with lacquered chop-sticks, served. -When the regent—quite an old man, with long, white -beard—entered, with his councillors, he advanced -and saluted the commodore half way, insisting on -rank or equality. The interview was a short one; -compliments were interchanged through Dr. Bettelheim -and Mr. S. W. Williams of Canton, when the -regent was invited aboard of the Susquehanna, when -she should return to Napa, after a contemplated absence -of twelve days. The presents were then left in -the middle of the floor, and the visiting party retired. -On reaching the street we were conducted to a large -hall in another part of the ground, where a feast had -been prepared for us, set out upon black lacquered -tables. The first course consisted of soups, of which -there were nearly a dozen different kinds furnished -in succession, in small cup-bowls, with porcelain spoons. -There was nearly every kind from egg-soup to “bird’s-nest.” -The solids were pleasant to the taste but -rather suspicious in appearance, among which were -slices of hard-boiled eggs, so colored as to resemble -sections of the uncooked tomato. Finding that we -were not able to make any progress with the black -lacquered chop-sticks which had been distributed at -each one’s place, they furnished us with little sharpened -pieces of oak, with the aid of which we did full justice -to our hosts.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">124</span></p> - -<p>After strange-looking cakes had been brought, tea -removed, and pipes handed, very small porcelain cups -were placed, and our honorable red-cap attendants, -who according to their custom, wait themselves upon -their guests, kept them continually filled with <span class="smcap lowercase">SAKI</span> -from silver vessels shaped like tea-pots. This was -the first taste we had of this colorless, celebrated -Japanese national beverage. It was pleasant to the -taste, and yet the after-math was not; it had some of -the <i>goût</i> of champagne, and then it was turnipy. -Buckingham might be on the seas, and then the seas -might be on him; but a man could scarcely be considered -“in his cups” though a hundred cups were in -him of <i>saki</i>. Nor could he exclaim with Falstaff -that the villain had put lime in his “sack,” (did -Shakespeare know Japanese?)—because the thimble-sized -tankard would not admit of it.</p> - -<p>The commodore, through the interpreter, toasted -the queen and young prince, and hoped Loo-Chooan -man and American man would always be friends. -The chiefs of course salaamed considerably to this -sentiment, but I am quite dubious whether they did -not regard it as an indication of closer proximity with -these Americans, who might disturb at a future day -the <i>nolli me tangere</i> doctrines of their country.</p> - -<p>The feast over, the column of escort was again -formed, and making the march down to Tumai, in less -time than up to Sheudi, by four o’clock, all were aboard -of their respective ships.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">125</span></p> - -<p>No more beautiful place than Sheudi, so far as verdure, -elevated situation, and attractive foliage, is concerned. -Our officers took many a tramp up there, -and always with pleasure. At cool springs well cared -for they could slake their thirst; under enormous trees -they could pic-nic or <i>siesta</i> if they chose, and afterward -bathe in a walled lake all covered over -with trees. What would the palace-grounds, the -Komooe of Sheudi, be worth in this country?—no more -baronial domain in England. Should you have gone -unprovided with chow-chow on these excursions, stop -at a roadside <i>Kunkwa</i>, usually adjoining some place -of worship, and the occupants will promptly give you -tea and cakes, and the examination of your strange -costume, and sage queries about your ship, is their reward -for their entertainment. If it should rain during -your walk, request one of your unbidden native -officer associates to procure a papyrus parasol.</p> - -<p>There are many things to interest an antiquarian -taste, and provoke conjecture, about Loo-Choo. At -Napa there are stone-statues, eight feet high, quite -well executed, of their “far-seeing God”—there are -causeways of stone, breakwaters, forts constructed -with good engineering, and well designed and located -for defence, though now entirely disarmed; and you -pass over well-arched bridges, with neatly-cut stone -balustrading, and in fine state of preservation. The -palace at Sheudi is a perfect fortress in wall and -situation, and in determined hands would laugh<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">126</span> -at a siege of many days. When were these built?—when -were these forts disarmed? As Basil Hall -told Napoleon at St. Helena, in speaking of this -island, there are <i>point de fusils</i> there now. The invocation -of the Ethiopic song, “Rise, old <i>Napa</i>, rise!” -would be now of no avail.</p> - -<p>Although a line of steamers from our Pacific coast -to Shanghae, China, on the arc of a great circle, -would come nowhere nigh the group known as the -Bonin islands to the northeast of Loo-Choo, yet the -commodore still deemed it best to make a hasty reconnoissance -of the harbor of Port Lloyd, which had -been surveyed some years ago by the English, who -claim sovereignty over Peel island by right of possession, -though it can be proven that it was first permanently -settled by an American, or one owing allegiance -to our country; but as the whole policy -of our government has been opposed to foreign colonial -possession, there is scarcely any chance of there being -any dispute about it. Mr. English, under-secretary -of state for foreign affairs, may make himself comfortable.</p> - -<p>On the 9th of June the Susquehanna, with the -sloop-of-war Saratoga in tow, took their departure, -leaving the Mississippi, and storeship Supply in -the harbor. A few days afterward the Plymouth -arrived from north China, bringing us papers containing -an account of the presidential inauguration.</p> - -<p>The Susquehanna and the Saratoga reached Peel<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">127</span> -island, after a pleasant passage, on the 14th. After a -stay there of four days, during which the commodore -sent parties of officers to explore the island, put a -quantity of live stock ashore in the custody of some -American residents at Port Lloyd, and also purchased -an eligible lot for the government, should it ever -hereafter be required, for a coal depot, the ships returned -to Napa, bringing with them fish and turtle. -They ascertained that some twenty whalers had -stopped at the island during the year for refreshments. -A parcel of long-nosed porkers turned loose by ships -passing, can only be reached by the aid of the rifle; -but some of the officers who took a crack at them, -facetiously spoke in their letters to the United States -of their hunting the <i>wild boar</i>.</p> - -<p>Von Siebold, in his history of the discoveries in the -Japan seas, says the Bonin islands were first put -down on a map published by the Dutch hydrographer, -Ortelius, in 1570, and are reported as having been -discovered in 1543, by Bernardo de Torres, who -named them Malonbrigo de los Hermanos. They -were visited in 1595 by Captain Linschaten, of the -Dutch East India Company, and are on the map by -Hondries in 1634. A few years after they were -visited by Captains Quast and Tasman of the same -company, who were in search of the Gen and Ken, or -Gold and Silver islands. These navigators determined -their position with admirable accuracy. Mention -is made of them by Vris and Schaef, of the Dutch<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">128</span> -East India Company in 1643. In 1650 on the map of -Jansomous, and in 1680 by Van Kenlen. By later authorities -they are omitted, and reappear on charts in -the following century as discovered by the Spanish -Admiral Cabrera Bueno, and are called Islas del -Arzobispo.</p> - -<p>The Japanese history in the book San-kok-tou-ran-to-sito, -mentions these islands as discovered between -1592 and 1595. In 1675 a Japan exploring expedition, -specially authorized by the emperor, sailed from -Simoda, then an imperial and customhouse port, -for the Bonin islands. They were named by the -Japanese the Munin Sima, and reported as fit to be -settled, and the importance of doing so was urged. -The Japanese counted more than eighty small rock -islands. In 1826 they were visited by an American -whaler, Captain Coffin; in 1827, by the Russian admiral, -Lutke; and in 1828, by Capt. Beechy of the English -navy. The inhabitants at Port Lloyd, on Peel -island, are about forty in number; on the Bailey or -Coffin group, there are living two families. Nearly all -these people are runaway sailors from whale-ships, who -have obtained wives from the Kanakas of the Sandwich -islands, and so far as their nationality is concerned, -the Americans predominate. The oldest -settler at Port Lloyd is Nathaniel Savary, who acts as -mayor of the place, and carries out their self-made -laws and regulations with the assistance of two elders -elected by a majority.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">129</span></p> - -<p>As long as the Dutch held their fort Zeelandia, on -Formosa, its position and possession gave them great -advantages in the eyes of the Japanese, but its capture, -after a prolonged siege, by the Chinese pirate -chief Coshinga, had a very injurious effect with the -Japanese, diminishing their prestige and weakening -belief in their naval supremacy. It is quite desirable -to know the future prospects of the Bonin islands. -The adventitious aid of their possession would prove -of great advantage in a trade with Japan, being only -a distance of two days’ steaming from Yedo.</p> - -<p>On the 2d of July the squadron got under way for -the bay of Yedo, Japan, the “Susquehanna” towing -the “Saratoga,” and the “Mississippi” towing the -“Plymouth.” The storeship “Supply” was left at -the anchorage, no doubt greatly to the regret of the -natives, who, gazing from the beach on our departure, -hoped that they would not see us again.</p> - -<p>We rounded the southern end of the island with a -heavy swell on, the southwest monsoon prevailing at -the time, and were soon heading up the Pacific.</p> - -<p>Our patriotic remembrance of the return of our great -national anniversary was ahead of the people of our -own native land; or is it the “Fourth of July” to an -American, until the sun of that day has illumined forest, -stream, and home, in his own country? At mid-day -then of our “Fourth,” when it was yet but eleven -o’clock at night of the third, in the United States the -large old steamers, and the sailing-vessels in their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">130</span> -tow, going dead to windward, dressed with our national -ensigns, in latitude 28° 36′ north, and longitude -130° 42′ east, running nearly abreast, fired seventeen -guns each, in honor of the day; and the -“main-brace” being ordered to be spliced, “Jack” -had the opportunity of remembering it in a tot of -grog.</p> - -<p>The next day, by signal from flag-ship, anchor-buoys -were ordered to be made of empty casks, the -men were exercised with small arms at target-firing, -and ship’s company exercised at general and fire -quarters, previous to arriving at our port of destination.</p> - -<p>A believer in omens would have had an opportunity -of indulging his credulity, and interpreting, if he -could, the meaning of a remarkable meteor which shot -athwart the sky on the morning of the 6th of July, -and was visible from the decks of the ships, when in -two days’ run of the bay of Yedo. It appeared as -large in circumference as the crown of a man’s hat. -Its body was of the brilliancy and color of molten -iron, and glowed as if heated by incandescence, emitting -all the while sparks which trailed backward in -its passage, like barbs of arrows. Its tail was of a -bluish transparency, which extended into an emerald-green -hue, terminating in a fiery, smoky bulb, resembling -the flame of burning tar. When first noticed, it -seemed to shoot upward from a line on a level with -our quarter-hammock netting, in the southwest, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">131</span> -so near did it appear to the ship, that for an instant -it was imagined to be a rocket from the sloop-of-war -Plymouth—at the time in tow of us—and designed -to attract our attention. In its passage through the -heavens, which occupied the time in which one might -count thirty, it described a parabolic curve, illuminating -as it went our hurricane-deck and wheel-houses -with astonishing clearness, and on reaching a point -nearly due north, occupied by a bank of dull roseate -cloud, it burst like a rocket and disappeared, leaving -those who had the good fortune to see it uttering exclamations -of admiration and wonderment, and a -rather credulous corporal of marines who happened -to be going his rounds at the time, willing to take -his “corporal” oath that the brilliant body started -within a few yards of our rail. The heat of the day -preceding was very great.</p> - -<p>Next day, being near the insular empire, target -practice was continued; old cartridges drawn, guns -loaded and shotted, and preparations made for removing -the forward-rail for the clear working of our -bow-guns.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">132</span></p> - - - - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</h2> - - -<p>When day broke on the morning of the 8th July -we got our first sight of the “<i>terra incognita</i>”—the -hermetic land—the land which had been invaded but -never conquered—hence called the “virgin empire.” -The high, bold shores of Japan were before us—the -“kingdom of the origin of the sun.”</p> - -<p>Japan has been continually spoken of as the unknown -land. It is difficult to see with what correctness -this designation should have been given it, unless -those countries only are known upon which the -physical eye of some numbers may have rested. -Taking the extant information at command, it can -very properly be said, with Macfarlane, that we -“know more of the Japanese than we knew of the -Turks a hundred years ago;” and he might have -added, than other nations knew of America, though -discovered half a century earlier than Japan.</p> - -<p>The works on the country are numerous; among -them those of the Jesuits, and the German and Swedish -medical officers of the Dutch prison factory at -Dezima. The printed data of the former, and the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">133</span> -archives of the Jesuit headquarters at Rome and -at other places, could furnish the earliest and most -thorough information. “<i>Les Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses</i>,” -or the pages of Charlevoix, which tell of -the labors of the Jesuit pioneer missionary in Japan, -Francis Xavier,—make it anything but an unknown -land.</p> - -<p>Then there are the books, whose size might well -deter the stoutest, but whose pages would well repay -the industrious search of the inquirer—the product -of the close observation and assiduous notation of -Kœmpfer,<a id="FNanchor_1_1" href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">1</a> Thunberg, Siebold; and the Dezima Opperhoofds—Titsinghe, -Doeff, Meylan, and Warehouse -Master Fischer, in lesser size; the quaint accounts -of old William Adams, pilot, and Captain Saris, Englishmen; -the work of the Russian Golownin, as far -as he could gather information, while undergoing his -hard but perhaps justly retributive imprisonment in -Matsmai; the works of Sir Stamford Raffles; Reports -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">134</span>of the East India Company; the pages of the Asiatic -Journal, &c.</p> - -<p>With such sources of information as these, it would -be a piece of affectation to suppose the majority of the -reading community without some knowledge of the -early and past history of Japan; but for such as may -possibly have not given it any attention, it may be -well to give a hurried glance at the early history of -the country, as derived from compilations of the before-cited -authorities, and also down to the condition -of the empire at the time of our visit—which is to be -found in a fine synoptical article which appeared some -time since in a foreign Quarterly Review—without -further acknowledgment.</p> - -<p>Well, then, to begin with the mythological. As -the Japanese have it, their origin was superhuman, -and their primitive history is in this wise: From -primeval chaos arose a self-created supreme God, -throned in the highest heaven, to whom, with some -brevity, is given the name, <i>Ameno-mi-naka-nusimo-kami</i>. -What then existed of a universe was governed -by seven celestial gods who next arose. The last of -these, not admiring the celibacy of his predecessors, -with whom the goddesses had dwelt as sisters, took -unto himself a wife. The marital state, it appears, -had the effect of awakening his latent energy, and one -day he said to his spouse:<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">135</span> “There should be somewhere -a habitable earth; let us seek it under the -waters that are boiling beneath us.”</p> - -<p>Like Ithuriel, he possessed a spear, and thrusting -it into the waters he then withdrew it. The drops -which fell from the spear—which, perhaps, was weeping -the puncture which he had given the aqueous -element—like the tears of Niobe, became solidified, -and thus came into existence the present insulated -empire.</p> - -<p>Others, however, not having the fear of Japanese -gods before their eyes, have a perverseness in the belief, -that the receding waters of the deluge left bare -Japan, or that it may have been since upheaved by -volcanic action from the mighty deep.</p> - -<p>The Adam of Japan was <i>Ten Sio Dai Dsin</i>. From -him sprang the nation; though <i>Syn Mou</i> is represented -as the founder of the empire. The physical -conformation of the Japanese indicates their Mongolian -origin.</p> - -<p>The geography of the Japanese kingdom is included -in a string of islands on the northeast coast of Asia, -not far distant from the main land, commencing with -the Kurile islands, a portion of which the empire exercises -sovereignty over, and extending to the straits -of Van Diemen on the south. The islands and uninhabited -rocks are said to comprise three thousand -eight hundred and fifty; but Japan of the present day -is understood to include Yezo, Niphon, Kew Sew, and -Sikok; among which the principal is Niphon, Nipon, -Zipon, Zipango, or Cipango, by which names it has -been called indifferently. It was for “Cipango” that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">136</span> -Columbus sailed from Palos, and from the masthead of -the “Pinto” the western world was first descried in -1492. Exactly fifty years afterward, <i>Pinto</i>, a Portuguese -first descried “Cipango,”—“the kingdom of -the origin of the sun.”</p> - -<p>The authentic history of Japan commences in 660, -B. C., with the first mortal ruler, surnamed the “Divine -Conqueror.” In Niphon he built him a <i>dairi</i>, or -temple-palace dedicated to the sun goddess. From -him all the <i>mikados</i>, or sovereigns, claim to descend.</p> - -<p>These self-styled divine rulers, from ceasing to -command their armies, and intrusting military commands -to kinsmen and others, came to abdicating so -early, that the heirs of their power were still mere -infants. These infants fell into the custody of others, -who loved them about as well as the Duke of Gloster -did those of his brothers he had conveyed to the -Tower; and so the partisans of the legitimate descent, -and of usurpers, immersed the kingdom in a civil war. -In favor of the authority of an infant <i>mikado</i>, then -threatened, came forth, a champion named Yoritomo, -who saved the throne, by his efforts, for the imperiled -juvenile sovereign, and for this service the -regent allowed the real power to remain in the -hands of Yoritomo, under the title of <i>sio-i-dai-ziogoon</i>, -or “generalissimo fighting against the barbarians.” -Very soon these ziogoons, from generalissimos fighting -against barbarians, became generalissimos fighting -against mikados. They became tenants of power<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">137</span> -by will, not by courtesy; they saved the spiritual -head from overthrow, but they retained his temporal -kingdom for themselves; their offices of trust became -offices of power, and hereditarily so; and from -Buddhist nunneries widows were even called to -govern for infant ziogoons. The spiritual emperor -soon became impotent in the hands of the military -emperor, and the <i>dual</i> government gradually dwindled -until the accession of the plebeian—the self-made, -the Napoleon of Japan—Taico Sama, to the -ziogoonship, who died in 1598, at the age of sixty-three, -after having subdued <i>Corea</i>, curtailed the power -of the princes, abolished the feudal system, and -made the <i>mikado</i>, a mikado “about nothing!”</p> - -<p>It would, no doubt, be now entirely true to say, -that the sceptre wrenched from the mikado by the -ziogoon, has in turn been wrested from the ziogoon -by a council of state, and the supreme authority of -Japan is now exercised by the president of the council, -though the emperor is the John Doe in whose -name he speaks.</p> - -<p>Kublai-khan, when he ascended the Mongol throne, -determined upon an invasion of the Japanese empire -from his dependency of Kaou-le. The better to pave -the way for this proceeding, he sent an embassador -with the following letter to Japan:—</p> - -<p>“The exalted emperor of the Mongols to the wang -[king] of Niphon:—</p> - -<p>“I am the prince of a formerly small state, to which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">138</span> -the adjacent lands have united themselves, and my -endeavor is to make inviolable truth and friendship -reign among us. What is more, my ancestors have, -in virtue of their splendid warrant from Heaven, -taken possessions of Hia dominions. The number -of the distant countries, of the remote cities, that -fear our power and love our virtue, passes computation. -When I ascended the throne, the harmless -people of Kaou-le were suffering under the calamities -of war. I immediately ordered a cessation of hostilities, -recalling the troops from beyond the frontiers -to the encampment of their colors. The prince of -Kaou-le and his subjects appeared at my court to give -me thanks, and I treated them kindly, as a father -treats his children. So I intend that your servants -shall be treated. Kaou-le is my eastern frontier; -Niphon lies near, and has from the beginning held -intercourse with the central empire. But during my -reign, not a single envoy has appeared to open a -friendly intercourse with me. I apprehend that the -state of things is not, as yet, well known in your -country, whereupon I send envoys, with a letter, to -make you acquainted with my views, and I hope we -may understand each other. Already philosophers -desire to see the whole world form one family. But -how may this one-family principle be carried into -effect, if friendly intercourse subsist not between the -parties? I am resolved to call this principle into -existence, even should I be obliged to do so by force<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">139</span> -of arms. It is now the business of the <i>wang</i> of -Niphon to decide what course is most agreeable to -him.”</p> - -<p>A contemptuous silence was the only answer that -the Japanese returned to this demand. The <i>ziogoon</i> -went immediately to work to put their coasts in a -state of defence, while the <i>mikado</i> had stated prayers -offered up.</p> - -<p>The invaders, a hundred thousand strong, came -as “the winds come when forests are rended,” and -by the winds, as they came, their “navies were -stranded.” The necks of those who escaped from -shipwreck were severed by the Japanese blades, and -three alone were spared to bear back to their country -and the summer-state lord of Xanadu, the tale of disaster, -and the fate of his armada. This was in October -of the year 1280.</p> - -<p>Of the advent of the Jesuits in Japan, three hundred -years afterward, and the simultaneous commencement -of commercial intercourse by the Portuguese; -the butchery of the Christians at Simbara, -(which, to their eternal infamy be it said, was assisted -by the Dutch,) and the expulsion of the Portuguese; -of the subsequent and continued intercourse -of the Dutch; and the repulse of other Europeans and -Americans, at later times, in their attempt to open -a trade, down to 1837, there is no room to speak in -these pages. In the introduction to the “Voyages of -the Morrison and Himmaleh,” by C. W. King, the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">140</span> -first of which ships was fired upon and driven from -Japan in 1837, the history of foreign intercourse is -given in a succinct form; or more elaborately in -book i. of Macfarlane.</p> - -<p>The population of Japan has been both over and -under estimated; absurdly by the Russian captain -Golownin, who estimated that of Yedo alone, from -what he heard, at eight millions. It can be but intelligent -speculation after all; and is no doubt most -accurately stated when it is put down as somewhat -exceeding that of Great Britain. The best information -I could gain, as to the population of the city of -Yedo, on the occasion of the Mississippi’s third and -last visit to Japan, was that it numbered between -fifteen and sixteen hundred thousand.</p> - -<p>I can not better close this hurried chapter than by -giving short extracts from two prominent English -writers, published before our sailing from the United -States, and containing their speculations and reflections, -which it is well to contrast subsequently, with -the result of the American expedition.</p> - -<p>The first says:—</p> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">141</span></p> -<p>“In every case we earnestly hope that the American -expedition may be conducted with firmness, but -also with prudence and gentleness. Should our very -enterprising and energetic brethren begin with a too -free use of bowie-knives and Colt’s revolvers, the -history of their mission will all be written in characters -of blood; slaughters and atrocities will be committed, -and an interesting people will be plunged -back into complete barbarity. Though unable to -contend in the field even with a small disciplined -force well provided with artillery, and good artillerymen, -the Japanese, if we are correctly informed as to -their character, will brave death and die in heaps. -We would not make any positive assertion, but we -apprehend the Americans will find that little or nothing -can be done by negotiation. Should force be -resorted to, the best means of proceeding would probably -be to take possession of one of the smaller -islands, or of some peninsular or promontory that -might be easily fortified on the land side. A line of -intrenchments sufficiently strong to keep off any native -force, might soon be made, and easily strengthened -afterward. On this strong basis negotiation -might probably be carried on with a better chance of -success.”</p> - -<p>The latter says:—</p> - -<p>“Strange and singular as everything we have -heard about Japan undoubtedly is, nothing is so -strange or so singular as the determination of the -inhabitants to resist all intercourse with their fellow-creatures, -except it be the fact that they have been -able to act upon the resolution with effect during -two centuries. It is this consideration which sheds a -tinge of romance about the operations of the American -squadron. The attack upon Japan is more than -an expedition, it is an adventure. In the midst of -the all-absorbing prose of the every-day world we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">142</span> -suddenly feel as if we were at once transported to the -domain of Ariosto and knight-errantry. The founders -of the system did ill to enlist against their cause -the principle of curiosity, the most constant and powerful -impulse of frail humanity. Let the plainest -woman in the three kingdoms cover her face with a -thick brown veil, and appear to shun observation and -she will soon be followed by an inquisitive crowd. -The flavor of forbidden fruit has smacked racily on -mortal lips from the days of Eve downward. Be the -impulse right or wrong it exists, and as it will most -surely be acted on, it must not be ignored. The affair, -however, is one of far too vital importance to be -treated in a light or jesting spirit, for we have every -reason to suppose, and to fear, that the resistance of -the Japanese to the invaders will be of the most determined -character. Great bloodshed and great misery -will probably precede the opening up of Japan. -However necessary, and however justifiable such a -step may be, we are not of those who can contemplate -the slaughter of a gallant people, however mistaken -their cause, without a pang of regret.”</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">143</span></p> -<h2 id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</h2> - - -<p>Before reaching the bay of Yedo, sounding-spars -had been rigged out from the end of the bowsprit of -each steamer, from which depended sounding-leads, -that were kept constantly going as well as the leadsmen -in the “chains.” As previous knowledge of the -water was rather defective, the ships proceeded in -with caution. The sweep of the bay is a noble one, -as you approach, and the morning being a clear and -lovely one, every object, from the strange-looking -crafts coming continually in sight, to the summits of -the high shores, and bold bluffs, were sharply defined. -Then too, simultaneously with our first sight of the -<i>nolli me tangere</i>, we got our first sight of <i>the</i> mountain -of Japan—<i>Foogee Yama</i>.</p> - -<p>Perhaps the incidents which transpired during our -first short visit to Japan, can be better conveyed by -giving them as jotted down at the time.</p> - -<p><i>July 8.</i>—Ship cleared for action; fore and bow-rails -and iron stancheons taken down and stowed -away; ports let down, guns run out into position -and shotted. Flag-ship made signal,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">144</span> “Have no communication -with shore; allow none from shore.” -Nine o’clock—standing up the outer bay of Yedo; a -number of Japanese junks in sight. Smaller boats, -in considerable numbers, making for the ships, and -crossing their bows; but the sight of the revolving-wheels -makes them haul up, and they give us a wide -berth as we hold our way past them. To those in -the boats who never before saw a steamship, particularly -two large war-steamers, towing sloops-of-war -through the water at a fast rate, how wonderful must -be the sight! As the ships approached the town of -Uragawa, or Uraga (about three o’clock), a fort, -situated on a high hill, sent up a shell high into the -air; and in a little while after we heard the explosion -of another. As they did not appear to be aimed at -us, but probably intended as signals, or to warn us -not to come to anchor in their bay, we kept on. A -few moments after stopping our wheels, long sharp-built -boats of pine, fastened with copper, and ornamented -at the prow with a black tassel, that had not -been previously observed under the shadow of a high -bluff, swarmed off under oar and sail, and surrounded -the ships. They were all fully manned with men in -uniform, and an old chap leaned over a rail in the -stern. One of the boats that reached us first, contained -a mandarin with two swords, who shook a letter -at us, and then attempted to board us on the port -bow, but the presentation of a loaded musket, by a -sentinel, made him think a little while about it. He<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">145</span> -became much enraged, turned almost white with anger, -his crew keeping up the while an awful pow-wow -and noise; and, with them, he tries to board again, -where our rail was down, but a division of pikes staring -them in the face, and a steamer’s wheels kept -revolving (rather ugly things for a boat to get under), -made them adjourn their determination. Drifting -aft to our port-gangway and finding the prospect -no better, he put off for shore, pointing to, and motioning -that we must not let go our anchor, drawing -and sheathing his swords, and holding up a letter. -(One of these letters was thrown aboard of the Plymouth, -written in French and Dutch, warning us, if we -anchored there, we did it at our “peril.”) But our -ships went in under their guns and let go their anchors, -forming a line broadside to shore, as previously -ordered by diagram from Commodore Perry. Boats -continued to circle around us, the occupants of some -of them appearing to be making drawings of us, but -they took care to keep at a respectable distance. In -the evening, the lieutenant-governor of the province, -Kayama Yesaimon, came off in a boat with streamers, -and his rank being announced, he was allowed to -come on board the flag-ship. The commodore would -not receive him, but turned him over to his flag-lieutenant. -In the meantime they commenced the formation -of a cordon of boats around the ships. The -Japanese functionary was first asked why this was -being done. He said it was Japanese “custom.” He<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">146</span> -was at once told that it was an <i>American</i> “custom” -not to allow any such thing; that these boats must -be sent away, not only from the flag, but the other -ships; and if not away in fifteen minutes, they would -be fired into. The boats left for shore. The governor -wished to know what these ships had come there for. He -was told that our commodore had a letter from our chief -magistrate to his emperor. He said that their laws -would only allow them to receive the letter at Nangasaki; -that he would inform the authorities at Yedo -of the arrival of the ships and of the letter; and that -it would be four days before any answer could be -received. The commodore directed it to be told him -that he would wait three days and a half, and if, at -the end of that time, there was not some one to receive -our president’s letter, that with five hundred -men he would land, and deliver the letter himself. -The governor then went ashore. In the evening the -steam-chimney was ordered to be kept protected; no -coal to be taken from the bunkers so as to expose the -engines; steam to be kept up, and every suitable -person on board ship directed to stand strict guard -during the night, armed with cutlass, carbine, &c., -and blue and red signal lights agreed upon between -the ships, to be hoisted upon the appearance of any -burning junks sent down upon us, or other danger -during the night.</p> - -<p><i>July 9.</i>—Still at anchor off the harbor and town -of Uraga, each ship with springs on her cable.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">147</span> -Uraga is the seaport of Yedo, and said to contain -twenty thousand inhabitants. Innumerable junks, -with white-laced sails, have been continually arriving -and departing since we have been here, having to be -examined by officers of the customs, both going up -and coming down. We can only see a portion of -the town, the remainder being shut in by the narrow -entrance to its harbor. During my mid-watch, last -night, the Japanese ashore were striking, at intervals, -a sweet and deep-toned bell, probably as a tocsin; -while from the stern of each of the immense number -of boats, anchored side by side, in shore, shone bright -lights through lanterns of every color, making one -long necklace of light, in front of the town of Humai, -situated in the midst of forts and water-batteries. At -sunrise, through a spy-glass could be discerned a -number of fortifications along shore, extending up to -a point which marks the entrance to the inner bay. -There was also visible a number of long striped-cloth -curtains, containing armorial figures of the different -princes of the empire, the encampment of -whose soldiers they are designed to mark out. The -soldiers, like those previously seen in the boats, wear -loose sacks of red, green, or blue, unconfined in front, -and having in white on their backs the insignia of -the prince whom they serve. There was a great -deal of marching and countermarching, with gay banners, -&c., between the different forts. The calibre -of the guns in the embrasures, could not be made out,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">148</span> -being kept under cover, or, as the sailors say, in -“petticoats.” On a very well-designed fort, circular -in plan, intended to protect the entrance to the harbor -of Uraga, were a number of the natives at work. -About nine o’clock, boats well-armed were sent from -each ship, with lead-lines, to ascertain the depth of -water between the ships and the shore. These boats -pulled as high as the upper fort, where the uppermost -one was surrounded by Japanese guard-boats, -who ordered them back, but did not attempt anything -else, some of our oars being trailed, and the curtains -over the muskets raised up for their edification. Our -boats paid no further attention to them, but continued -to stand in and pull close down the shore, getting -soundings as they went, and at the same time making -a rather bold reconnoissance of their guns and forts, -who did not fire upon them, as many watching from -the ships, at one time thought they would do.</p> - -<p><i>July 10</i>—<span class="smcap">Sunday</span>.—A number of boats came off -and rowed around the ship; troops, apparently, collecting -on shore. Japanese at work on a fort just -opposite to us. Weather clear. The steep shores, -well-wooded, looking fine as they are brightened by -the sun-light. Evening—A whale blowed not far -from the ship. Foogee Yama obscured by cloud. -During the day, the capstan having been dressed as -usual, and books distributed, the chaplain gave out -the hymn, commencing commencing—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">“Before Jehovah’s awful throne,</div> - <div class="verse">Ye nations, bow with sacred joy,”</div> -</div></div></div> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">149</span></p> -<p>and with the aid of many of the fine voices of the crew, -and the assistance of the bass instruments of the -band, in sight of heathen temples, and, perhaps, in -the hearing of their worshippers, swelled up “Old -Hundred” like a deep diapason of old ocean.</p> - -<p><i>July 11.</i>—By order of the commodore, the Mississippi -was ordered to get under way, and stood up the -straits, following slowly after our boats sent to sound -the inner bay, to ascertain the practicability of -reaching the capital, our present anchorage being -twenty-five miles from the city of Yedo. Passed -close in under the chief fort, on the point beyond -which no “barbarian” ship had ever been permitted -to go. Fort did not fire. On debouching we -entered a magnificent bay, of great extent, bounded -on its western side by picturesque slopes, bold bluffs, -with here and there a village between them, deeply -indented coves, and a well-wooded island, crowned -with a three-gun battery, which on our survey chart -was called “Perry island.” Our boats continued to -sound ahead during the day, the Japanese guard-boats -enveloping them and attempting to impede their -progress by getting across their track, but attempted -nothing further. Two little brass howitzers, on each -of our forward guards, loaded with grape and cannister, -would probably have caused some dancing -among them if they had. On the east of us, on a -long low sand beach, through a spy-glass could be -seen an encampment of Japanese troops, near a breast<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">150</span>work, -dressed in black figured clothes, and surmounted -with banners. This was probably an “army of observation.” -We continued to hold our way up the -bay until a late hour, as far as a high bluff of clay-stone, -which was named “Mississippi bluff,” as a -token that it was nearer to the palace of the ziogoon -of Japan than any foreign ship had ventured to go -before. Our boats were then taken in tow, and we -started on our return to the anchorage we had left in -the morning. A two-sworded mandarin attempted to -make his boat fast to one of our boats astern, that he -might get a tow back, and I was surprised to hear -him ask in English, “Are you going back?” The -sailors in the boats were ordered to cut his line if he -made fast to them. He was much angered as our -wheels left him in the distance. We regarded his -proposition for a tow, as cool as a fellow who would -play spy on you all day, and then ask you to take -him home in a carriage at night. On our way back -we passed through a flotilla of their boats, when our -chief engineer opened our steam-whistle. Never were -human beings more astounded, when the unearthly -noise reached their ears, the fellows at the sculls -dropped their oars and stood aghast. To all of the -day’s doings the inhabitants of the different towns, -and the troops strung along shore, have been constant -and watchful observers. They could not understand -what our movements meant. Jonathan’s boldness -had dumbfounded them.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">151</span></p> - -<p><i>July 12.</i>—Governor of Uraga came aboard and -urged Nangasaki as the proper place at which Japan -could receive foreign communications. Commodore -Perry replied that his government had sent him to -<i>Yedo</i>, and that he would go nowhere else to deliver -his letter. The Japanese officials then pretended to -hold a conference ashore, and afterward brought off -word that they would receive the letter at a point -which they would make known. It was afterward -arranged that the reception of the letter was to be by -a high officer, sent from the capital for the especial -purpose; the place, a bay below the town of Uraga, -and that it would take two days for them to get up a -building for the ceremony. They said they had selected -this spot for its privacy, that their rabble population -might not be present; and as the whole thing -was without precedent with them, and against their -laws;—also, probably, because they did not wish us -to get a sight of their towns, or a nearer view of -their forts. The governor and his two interpreters -at this interview remained aboard some time, and -were very observant of everything, and evinced more -information than could have been expected. The -engine-room astonished them, though with Japanese -self-possession they concealed much. They laughed, -and were untiring in their attention to cherry brandy. -On being shown a daguerreotype, they immediately -called its name. On a globe they pointed out Boston, -New York, Philadelphia, New Orleans, &c.; gave<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">152</span> -the boundaries of Mexico, and said our country had -a part of Mexico; if our mission was a peaceful -one, why did we have <i>four</i> ships-of-war to bring -<i>one</i> letter? (Commodore told them that it was a -greater compliment to their emperor—probably!) -Wished to know why the steam-vessel “Mississippi” -went up the inner bay so far? It was replied that -the commodore had more ships in these waters, and -if they should render it necessary that they would all -come with him, the next time he came; he desired an -anchorage less exposed than the one we were then -lying at.</p> - -<p><i>July 13.</i>—Some little suspicion of treachery ashore; -much conference going on among chief mandarins. -Boats were sent from the ships to go and sound off -the mouth of the appointed place, to see whether any -of the ships could get in sufficiently near to cover and -protect the landing of the boats; orders issued prescribing -who were to compose the landing party; some -will have to stay on board the ships; poor fellows! -Bad day for Japanese to-morrow, if they attempt -with us the treacherous game that they played upon -Golownin:—</p> - -<div class="less"> - -<p>“<i>The Americans must not quit their wooden walls.</i>”—<span class="smcap">London Press.</span></p></div> - -<p><i>July 14.</i>—Bright and beautiful day. Much activity -and preparation for the landing; boats being lowered -away, percussion-caps distributed, and twenty -rounds of ball-cartridges delivered to each man; of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">153</span>ficers -rigging in undress uniforms, and arming mostly -with cutlasses and Colt’s six-shooters. Quartermasters -fastening American ensigns on pikes. General -orders received early in the morning. The Susquehanna -and Mississippi will anchor in the position -assigned them. The Plymouth will retain her present -position, and the Saratoga to get into her berth -if possible, but not to get out of range of the forts and -town. The ships will watch the proceedings on shore, -having their guns primed and pointed, and their remaining -boats alongside, with arms in them, ready in -a moment to shove ashore, if the commanding officers -think there is need of them. The boats which carry -the officers, sailors, and marines on shore, are all to -have anchors, and after landing their respective crews, -are to haul off about fifty feet from shore and anchor, -keeping their men at their arms and watching the -proceedings on shore, and if they are called on shore -the officers of the boats will land with all but two men, -who are to be left as boat-keepers; bread and water -in the boats. At daybreak the Susquehanna and Mississippi -steam-frigates tripped their anchors, dropped -down, and anchored immediately across the entrance -of the bay where we were to land, to protect and cover -the landing, having springs on their cables, that their -broadside of guns might be trained on the shore. -The sloop-of-war Plymouth commanded the town of -Uraga, and the Saratoga, that of Humai, and the -forts surrounding it. At nine o’clock, our boats<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">154</span> -armed and manned, went alongside of the flag-ship, -where were the boats of the Saratoga and Plymouth. -After some delay the boats moved ashore. The -captain of the Susquehanna and officers, leading; -Captain Walker of the Saratoga and officers next, -then the Mississippi’s boats, in the first of which I -was, under Lieutenant Taylor. Following in line came -the remaining boats of all the ships, with sailors, -marines, two bands, &c.</p> - -<p>The place selected by the Japanese for the delivery -of the letter, was a bay of some mile and a -quarter in depth, surrounded by an amphitheatre of -bold hills, its entrance being narrow, and defended -by forts on either side. At the head of this bay, following -the line of a crescent beach of black and white -sand, ankle-deep, is the town of Gorihama. In the -distance, with its veil of blue, and patches of snow, -towering up fifteen thousand feet, shone the extinct -volcano of Foogee. The boats, as they pulled in, presented -a fine sight; the “flower-flag,” as the Chinese -call it, waving gracefully from the stern of each boat; -the bright muskets shining in the sun, and the -epaulettes glistening. The landing was done in fine -order, and with great promptitude, under the command -of Major Zeilen, of the marine corps. Each -man, as the boat touched the beach, jumped ashore, -and took his proper place in line, which, when formed, -presented a bold front, notwithstanding officers and men -all told, it scarcely exceeded four hundred men; and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">155</span> -encircling them a few paces in rear, and as far as -one could see, on either hand, in horse-shoe form, were -Japanese troops, who had been collected there for -the occasion, armed with spears and bows, long -bayonet brass-mounted muskets, and matchlocks, -with ready fuses, coiled on their right arms. In their -front, equi-distant, sat their officers on stools, armed -with two swords. Near by, not very large, were a -number of horses richly caparisoned about the head, -and with gaudy housings, belonging to the officers. -Extending all around were canvass curtains supported -by stakes driven in the ground, with different insignias -painted on the front, and festooned with blue cords -and tassels; at the termination of each one floated the -colored flag of each particular prince, whose men were -present. The shining and gilded lacquered broadbrims -of the Japanese; the varied costumes, brilliant -colors, flapping flags, and curtain enclosures, all overhung -by a dense green of trees, as the eye took them -in, made one think that he had come to be a spectator -of some joust or tourney. The Japanese say they -had five thousand men present, but I hardly think -there were as many, unless some were hid in the -town, whose houses in our direction were concealed -behind temporary walls of thatching straw.</p> - -<p>A salute of thirteen guns from the flag-ship, which -caused some little stir among the Japanese troops, who -did not seem exactly to understand it, announced that -the commodore and his immediate suite had left, in his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">156</span> -barge, for shore. In a little while he landed on a -small jutty, made of rice-straw and sand, passing -through a street formed of his own officers, to his -place in line, when the squadron band struck up -“Hail Columbia” in a style, and with a force that -made the Japanese open their ears (they may have -to listen to it again), and the hills around sent each -note of “Hail Columbia” back again. “Hail Columbia” -never sounded better. The column of escort -with the marines in front, a stalwart sailor with the -broad pennant; commodore and staff; suite of officers; -boxes containing president’s letter, &c.; two -men over six feet high, each, with pikes upon which -American ensigns were fastened, with revolving rifles -slung across their shoulders; sailors with bronzed -muskets; Mississippi’s band, &c.; and marines then -marched to the building for the ceremony; shown the -way by two Japanese officials. The sailors were in -blue trousers and white frocks, prettily bisected with -the slings of their cartridge boxes, and wore blue -cloth caps, with bands of red, white, and blue, ornamented -with thirteen stars in white. The marines -were in full uniform. The room of ceremony was -reached by passing through a small canopied court; -enclosed with primitive landscape screens, the floor -of which was covered with matting. The place of -audience was a room in a thatched building, limited -in space, and entirely open in the direction of the -court, ornamented with gauze curtains as drapery.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">157</span> -At the back of the room were representations of -shrubbery, and of cranes wheeling in flight over it, -while on the two remaining sides, were hung large -blue flags, having in the centre one large and eight -smaller satellite representations. Overhead you -looked up to thatching, and each rafter was marked -with Japanese characters, as if the building had been -originally constructed at some other place, probably -at Yedo, and sent down for erection. On the left -of the room as you entered by ascending one step, -was seated the chief Japanese functionary, appointed -by the emperor to receive the president’s letter, the -prince of Idzoo; beside him was the prince of the -province of Iwami; behind him quite a number of -two-sworded mandarins. The chief man was attired -in a maroon silk robe, with an over-garment of red, -blue cloth socks, with places left for the great toe. -On the back of the red over-garment, were figures -worked in white, some resembling cornucopias. His -suite were attired in the same manner with slight -exceptions. On the other side of the room were placed -ornamental chairs, with well-designed arm-rests, in -which were seated Commodore Perry and suite.</p> - -<p>Dr. Williams, of Canton, was present as interpreter -of the Japanese language; although his services -were not called into requisition. Mr. A. L. C. Portman, -the commodore’s clerk, as it was most agreeable to -the Japanese, acted as interpreter in the Dutch language. -The floor of the chamber was covered with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">158</span> -mats, having spread over them in the centre of the -room, cloths resembling red felt blankets, indifferently -dyed. After the manner of the Japanese, two -interpreters were in attendance on the prince, one of -them squatted on the floor near our interpreter, partially -facing the chief and another (Kayama Yesaimon, -governor of Uraga) on his haunches immediately -in front of him. Midway, in rear of the room, -was placed a brightly-lacquered red chest, resting -upon eight feet, with its deep and projecting lid, confined -by tasselled cords of blue. The gilt ornamental -design in front resembled the rose of the Gothic style. -The officers of the ships occupied the court facing the -platform.</p> - -<p>Everything being announced ready, and obeisance -interchanged between the prince and commodore, -beautiful rosewood-boxes, hinged, clamped, and clasped -with gold, having inscriptions with German-text -letters, let in with gold on their tops, which had been -carried by side-boys, were then brought in, and displayed -upon the chest. Mr. Portman opened them to -assure the Japanese of the presence of the letters; -and the interpreter was directed to inform the prince, -which was done, one interpreter whispering to the -other, that in the boxes were also translations of our -president’s letter, in Dutch and Chinese. The credentials -from the emperor empowering the prince of -Idzoo to receive the letter, were then handed over by -the prince, and taken charge of by the flag-lieutenant,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">159</span> -having been duly examined the day before on shipboard. -The letter of the president was as follows:—</p> - -<div class="less"> -<p class="pind"> -<i>MILLARD FILLMORE</i>,</p> -<p class="center"> -<span class="smcap">President of the United States of America</span>,</p> -<p class="center"> -<span class="smcap">To his Imperial Majesty</span>,</p> -<p class="pind"> -<i>THE EMPEROR OF JAPAN</i>.</p> -<p class="pnind"> -<i>Great and Good Friend!</i></p> - - -<p class="pind">I send you this public letter by Commodore Matthew -C. Perry, and officer of highest rank in the Navy of the United -States, and commander of the squadron now visiting your Imperial -Majesty’s dominions.</p> - -<p>I have directed Commodore Perry to assure your Imperial Majesty -that I entertain the kindest feelings toward your Majesty’s person and -government; and that I have no other object in sending him to Japan, -but to propose to your Imperial Majesty that the United States and -Japan should live in friendship, and have commercial intercourse with -each other.</p> - -<p>The constitution and laws of the United States forbid all interference -with the religious or political concerns of other nations. I have -particularly charged Commodore Perry to abstain from every act -which could possibly disturb the tranquillity of your Imperial Majesty’s -dominions.</p> - -<p>The United States of America reach from ocean to ocean, and our -territory of Oregon and state of California lie directly opposite to the -dominions of your Imperial Majesty. Our steamships can go from -California to Japan in eighteen days.</p> - -<p>Our great state of California produces about sixty millions of dollars -in gold, every year, besides silver, quicksilver, precious stones, -and many other valuable articles. Japan is also a rich and fertile -country, and produces many very valuable articles. Your Imperial -Majesty’s subjects are skilled in many of the arts. I am desirous -that our two countries should trade with each other, for the benefit -both of Japan and the United States.</p> - -<p>We know that the ancient laws of your Imperial Majesty’s government -do not allow of foreign trade except with the Dutch. But as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">160</span> -the state of the world changes, and new governments are formed, it -seems to be wise from time to time to make new laws. There was a -time when the ancient laws of your Imperial Majesty’s government -were first made.</p> - -<p>About the same time, America, which is sometimes called the New -World, was first discovered and settled by the Europeans. For a -long time there were but a few people, and they were poor. They -have now become quite numerous; their commerce is very extensive; -and they think that if your Imperial Majesty were so far to change -the ancient laws as to allow a free trade between the two countries, it -would be extremely beneficial to both.</p> - -<p>If your Imperial Majesty is not satisfied that it would be safe, altogether, -to abrogate the ancient laws which forbid foreign trade, they -might be suspended for five or ten years, so as to try the experiment. -If it does not prove as beneficial as was hoped, the ancient laws can -be restored. The United States often limit their treaties with foreign -states to a few years, and then renew them or not, as they please.</p> - -<p>I have directed Commodore Perry to mention another thing to -your Imperial Majesty. Many of our ships pass every year from -California to China; and great numbers of our people pursue the -whale fishery near the shores of Japan. It sometimes happens in -stormy weather that one of our ships is wrecked on your Imperial -Majesty’s shores. In all such cases we ask and expect, that our unfortunate -people should be treated with kindness, and that their property -should be protected, till we can send a vessel and bring them -away. We are very much in earnest in this.</p> - -<p>Commodore Perry is also directed by me to represent to your Imperial -Majesty that we understand there is a great abundance of coal -and provisions in the empire of Japan. Our steamships, in crossing -the great ocean, burn a great deal of coal, and it is not convenient to -bring it all the way from America. We wish that our steamships -and other vessels should be allowed to stop in Japan and supply -themselves with coal, provisions, and water. They will pay for them, -in money, or anything else your Imperial Majesty’s subjects may -prefer; and we request your Imperial Majesty to appoint a convenient -port in the southern part of the empire, where our vessels -may stop for this purpose. We are very desirous of this.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">161</span></p> - -<p>These are the only objects for which I have sent Commodore Perry -with a powerful squadron to pay a visit to your Imperial Majesty’s -renowned city of Yedo: friendship, commerce, a supply of coal, and -provisions and protection for our shipwrecked people.</p> - -<p>We have directed Commodore Perry to beg your Imperial Majesty’s -acceptance of a few presents. They are of no great value in -themselves, but some of them may serve as specimens of the articles -manufactured in the United States, and they are intended as tokens -of our sincere and respectful friendship.</p> - -<p>May the Almighty have your Imperial Majesty in his great and -holy keeping!</p> - -<p>In witness whereof I have caused the great seal of the United -States to be hereunto affixed, and have subscribed the same with my -name, at the city of Washington in America, the seat of my government, -on the thirteenth day of the month of November, in the year -one thousand eight hundred and fifty-two.</p> - -<p class="psig"><span class="gap4r"><i>Your Good Friend</i>,</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Millard Fillmore</span>.</p> - -<p><span class="gap2"> -<i>By the President.</i></span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Edward Everett</span>,<br /> -<span class="gap4"> -<i>Secretary of State</i>.</span></p></div> - -<p>Accompanying this letter was one from Commodore -Perry, merely repeating the language embraced in -the instructions from the secretary of state:—</p> - -<div class="less"> -<p class="pnb"> -<span class="smcap">To His Imperial Majesty</span>,</p> - -<p class="center"><i>THE EMPEROR OF JAPAN</i>.</p> - -<p>The undersigned, Commander-in-chief of all the naval forces of -the United States of North America, stationed in the East India, -China, and Japan seas, has been sent by his government to this country -on a friendly mission, with ample powers to negotiate with the government -of Japan, touching certain matters which have been fully set -forth in the letter of the President of the United States; copies of -which, together with copies of the letter of credence of the undersigned, -in the English, Dutch, and Chinese languages, are herewith -transmitted.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">162</span></p> - -<p>The original of the President’s letter, and of the letter of credence, -prepared in a manner suited to the exalted station of your Imperial -Majesty, will be presented by the undersigned, in person, when it -may please your Majesty to appoint a day for his reception.</p> - -<p>The undersigned has been commanded to state that the President -entertains the most friendly feelings toward Japan, but has been -surprised and grieved to learn that when any of the people of the -United States go of their own accord, or are thrown by the perils of -the sea, within the dominions of your Imperial Majesty, they are -treated as if they were your worst enemies. The undersigned refers -to the cases of the American ships ‘Morrison,’‘Ladoga,’ and ‘Lawrence.’</p> - -<p>With the Americans, as indeed with all Christian people, it is considered -a sacred duty to receive with kindness, and to succor and -protect all, of whatever nation, who may be cast upon their shores; -and such has been the course of the Americans, with respect to all -Japanese subjects who have fallen under their protection.</p> - -<p>The government of the United States desires to obtain from that -of Japan, some positive assurance that persons who may be hereafter -shipwrecked on the coast of Japan, or driven by stress of weather -into her ports, shall be treated with humanity.</p> - -<p>The undersigned is commanded to explain to the Japanese that the -United States are connected with no government in Europe, and that -their laws do not interfere with the religion of their own citizens, -much less with that of other nations.</p> - -<p>That they inhabit a great country which lies directly between Japan -and Europe, and which was discovered by the nations of Europe -about the same time that Japan herself was first visited by Europeans; -that the portion of the American continent lying nearest to -Europe, was first settled by emigrants from that part of the world; -that its population has rapidly spread through the country until it -has reached the shores of the Pacific ocean; that we have now large -cities, from which, with the aid of steam-vessels, we can reach Japan -in eighteen or twenty days; that our commerce with all this region -of the globe is rapidly increasing, and the Japanese seas will soon be -covered with our vessels.</p> - -<p>Therefore as the United States and Japan are becoming every day<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">163</span> -nearer and nearer to each other, the President desires to live in -peace and friendship with your Imperial Majesty; but no friendship -can long exist unless Japan ceases to act toward Americans as if they -were her enemies.</p> - -<p>However wise this policy may originally have been, it is unwise -and impracticable, now that the intercourse between the two countries -is so much more easy and rapid than it formerly was.</p> - -<p>The undersigned holds out all these arguments, in the hope that -the Japanese government will see the necessity of averting unfriendly -collision between the two nations, by responding favorably to the -propositions of amity, which are now made in all sincerity.</p> - -<p>Many of the large ships-of-war destined to visit Japan, have not -yet arrived in these seas, though they are hourly expected; and the -undersigned, as an evidence of his friendly intentions, has brought -but four of the smaller ones, designing, should it become necessary, -to return to Yedo in the ensuing spring, with a much larger force.</p> - -<p>But it is expected that the government of your Imperial Majesty -will render such return unnecessary by acceding at once to the very -reasonable and pacific overtures contained in the President’s letter, -and which will be further explained by the undersigned on the first -fitting occasion.</p> - -<p>With the most profound respect for your Imperial Majesty, and -entertaining a sincere hope that you may long live to enjoy health -and happiness, the undersigned subscribes himself,</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="gap2r"> -(<i>Signed</i>)</span><span class="gap2r"><span class="smcap">M. C. Perry</span>,</span><br /> -<i>Commander-in-chief of the United States Naval Forces<br /> -<span class="gap2r">in the East India, China, and Japan seas.</span></i></p> - -<p>U. S. Steam-Frigate Susquehanna,<br /> -Off the coast of Japan, July 7, 1853. -</p></div> - -<p>A brief pause followed the delivery of the letters, the -Japanese appearing dispirited, and their prince as if -the day’s doings might result to him in being compelled -to perform the “Happy Despatch” of his country; -the commodore directed the interpreter to say, that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">164</span> -as it would take some time to deliberate on the letter -of the president, he should not wait for an answer, -but would return in the spring; that he would leave -in a few days for Canton, by way of the great Loo-Choo -island, and would be happy to take any commands -they might have. Owing to our pronunciation -of the word “Loo-Choo,” perhaps, they did not seem -to understand the latter part of this. The interpreter -was then directed to tell them, that China was -now in a state of revolution; that the rebels had -taken Nanking, Ningpo, Amoy, and Cheang-foo. -The Japanese interpreter, apparently for himself, -asked what was the cause of the revolution. The -commodore commenced a reply by saying, “Religion,” -then correcting himself, said “Dissatisfaction with -the government on the part of the people.” The interpreter -reflected awhile, and then said he could not -say anything to his prince about revolutions, but -could only speak about the letter. The governor of -Uraga then rose, placed the president’s letter in -the lacquered chest, and tied the cords; then, turning, -bowed very low, intimating that the audience -was concluded; the prince rising and saluting as we -retired.</p> - -<p>The column of escort then reformed, and returned -to the beach where we landed, in the same order in -which we had come, passing down the front of the -line of Japanese soldiers, many a scowling fellow -meanwhile looking daggers at us; and their officers,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">165</span> -affecting an indifference to the scene, which they -could not have felt, perhaps thinking how agreeable -a thing it would be, to hold one of those Americans -on the end of one of their blades, as a fork, and hack -him with the other as a knife; if they only dared to -try. So closed the day that is to mark the opening -of Japan to the world. America has said, “Open, -sesame!”</p> - -<p>I said to Major Zeilen, of the marine corps (a fine -old soldier), the day before we landed, “Well, major, -they have our cages ashore?” “No, sir; no caging -to-morrow,” said he, “it will be fight to the death!” -Our men marched past the Japanese troops with the -greatest indifference, making such remarks as, “Jack, -give us a chaw of tobacco.” “Robinson,” said the -officer of the deck to a six-foot quartermaster who -was to carry an American ensign, “don’t you let -them take that away from you, to-day.” Robinson -said, “Well, sir, they may do it, but the man who -takes it <i>won’t be able to carry it after</i> he gets it.”</p> - -<p>In the afternoon, of the day of the landing, the -steamers got underway, passed the point or “Rubicon -Fort,” as it was named, and went into anchorage in -the inner bay, which had been sounded out by boats -under cover of the Mississippi, three days before. In -doing so we got the best view of the line of fortifications, -which extend from a point on the western side, -marking the narrowest part of the outer, or entrance -to the inner bay, down to the city of Uraga. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">166</span> -first fort, built very well, was a kind of curtain-wall -with four embrasures, fronted by an artificial plateau -sloping to the water’s edge, and protected in the rear -by a deep triangular excavation in high sandstone, -whose sides sloped to the area below, and must have -been made after much labor. This contained a barrack -building, and the entrance was by a narrow -“grotto pausilipo,” cut through a hill behind. Next, -in a small indentation in the shore, was a circular -fort, not very extensive, containing houses for troops, -and having guns in barbette. The third was on a -small circular promontory of some size. The space -fortified was mostly occupied by a steep wedge-shaped -hill, and was pierced for four guns. The fourth, divided -from the third by a small town, as the third -was divided from the second, was a rampart of earth -and masonry, with a parapet, built across a narrow -gorge, surmounted by a high hill with a small crown-battery, -from which the shells were fired on our arrival. -The principal and best fort, of some dimension, -not yet completed, was situated on the north side of -the entrance to the harbor of Uraga. This battery -was placed some eighty feet above the water, the -Japanese having no doubt learned, from their Dutch -<i>confreres</i>, that during a calm, at this elevation, they -might, by a ricochet-shot, reach the ships of an enemy -even seven hundred yards distant. They had -also cut into perpendicular steps the ground between -this fort and the water, that shot may be stopped in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">167</span> -ricochet firing, and their effect lessened if not destroyed. -There were no crown batteries visible. -Their guns were under cover, and their calibre could -not be ascertained, but it is doubtful whether they -were of the calibre to render harbor defences efficient.</p> - -<p>As soon as the tide served, after our anchoring in -the inner bay, the Saratoga and Plymouth got underway, -stood up and joined us.</p> - -<p>The next day the commodore came aboard of the -Mississippi, when his broad-pennant was hoisted, the -anchor hove up, and with boats ahead to make soundings, -we stood up the bay, running nearer to the great -capital of the empire than ship of any foreigner had -gone before. The Japanese troops on shore kept watch -on our movements, and their guard-boats rowed up -in company with ours, but did not attempt to impede -or molest them. Having gone up and made soundings, -and a reconnoissance, until the water began to -shoal, we put the ship about and returned to where -we had left the Susquehanna. In the evening a Japanese -functionary who had been looking with much -solicitude upon our movements, went on board of the -flag-ship, and said, “He hoped we would not attempt -to go up their bay any farther, if we did there would -be trouble.” He was told that if it became necessary -to bring our whole squadron into their waters, that it -was necessary that the ships should have a less exposed -anchorage than the one we had occupied off<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">168</span> -Uraga, and the only way that such an anchorage -could be found out, was by surveys and soundings.</p> - -<p>On the 16th boats were sent down to survey and -ascertain the depth of water in the cove which opens -on the left hand just after entering the inner bay in -which is situated the Saru-Sima, by some called -“Perry island.” The steamers followed during the -day down to this anchorage, but the wind proving -light and baffling, the sailing ships did not get there -until evening, one of them meanwhile having drifted -afoul of the other, on having to come suddenly to -anchor, and carrying away a flying-jib boom. Here, -before dusk, a Japanese official, who spoke Dutch, -brought off as presents game-fowls which had beautiful -plumage, lacquered-ware, some of their small -pipes and mild tobacco, and brocade interwoven with -gold thread. These were refused until they consented -to receive presents in return. They would not give -one of their blades nor receive one of our swords; -such an exchange did not indicate friendship according -to their ideas, nor was the parting with any Japanese -arms allowed by their laws. They expressed -great desire to know when we should leave, and manifested -much solicitude and anxiety about our remaining. -This curiosity was not gratified.</p> - -<p>We had now been in their waters about eight days, -during which we had only one opportunity of noticing -things and people, near by on shore, and then for not -a very long time. But what we had been able to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">169</span> -observe, assured us that the Japanese were a superior -race, though they might belong to the same variety -of the human family as their pig-tail neighbors. -Their complexions were better, their features more -regular, they had not a great obliquity of eye; their -manners were more collected and impressive, their -bearing more dignified, their costume less sacerdotal; -and their crowns, instead of displaying a patch of -hair the size of a dinner-plate behind, with a pendent -plait, were shaven in an oval on the top, around -which the hair was brushed perpendicularly, and -pomatumed, terminating in a tie, from which the -united ends, adhering together with the pomatum, -laid like a cheroot-cigar in form, the end pointing to -the brow, in the centre of the place that the razor -has denuded. They look like the literary gentlemen -whose bald heads cause their foreheads to run back -nearly to their coat-collar. Certain it is that they -can hardly be deemed descendants of the son of -Manoah, of whom it was prophesied—“<i>and no razor -shall come on his head</i>.”</p> - -<p>Their boats were sharp, and by the continued action -of the sculls—instead of rowing on their sides—were -impelled with greater speed than the boats of -the celestials; while the nice bows to their junks indicated -great superiority, and the single white canvass -sail, stretched by a yard from their enormous -mast, was far more pleasant to the eye and sensible -than the dingy mat-sail of the Chinaman. Their plan<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">170</span> -of reducing sail is singular: instead of lessening the -hoist of the sail as other nations do, as in reefing, -they reduce the width of their sail by unlacing a -cloth from either side. We did not on this visit get -in the vicinity of the large capital but could form -some idea of its consumption by the immense number -of coasting-junks for ever going up and returning, -keeping white the bay, with their singular sails, in -centre of which black characters told the district they -were from, or it was indicated by strips of black -cloth hanging on either end of the yard. It was -soon apparent, and the Japanese were no doubt aware -that we knew it, that if it should become necessary -to resort to offensive measures, that the blockading -of the custom-port of Uraga, and the stoppage of the -passage of their junks with their supplies to the immense -city, would make them very effective. Their -forts would not have been able to have raised the -blockade; we could have kept out of the reach of -their guns, and peppered them with the long range -of our own.</p> - -<p>On Sunday morning, July 17, at daybreak, we -lifted anchor, and the Susquehanna with the Saratoga -in tow, and the Mississippi towing the Plymouth, we -proceeded down the outer bay, and left for a time -the waters of Japan, numbers on shore and the troops -on the parapets of the forts of Kami Saki looking at -us, and apparently much pleased with the movement. -This time we kept down the opposite side of the bay<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">171</span> -from the one by which we had arrived, and by eleven -o’clock we were abreast of Misaki Awa, or the southernmost -point of the bay on the east, off which we -noticed swimming a number of seals. The natives in -the small boats, having gotten more confidence, on -our approach, pulled as near to us as the revolving-wheel -would permit them. We ran in sight of the -large volcanic island, named on the Dutch charts as -Vries, but called Oho Sima, or Bird island, by the -Japanese. Evening saw us threading our way through -a group of islands, whose barren surfaces presented a -desolate sight. One of them was Fatisisio, the penal -settlement or Botany Bay of Japan.</p> - -<p>On the 18th a man fell overboard from the Plymouth, -but by cutting away, promptly, a life-buoy -which he struck out for and reached, and promptly -lowering away a boat, he was saved. I could not -but recollect that there was a man overboard from -the same ship the day before, but under different -circumstances, as was told by the half-raised ensigns -at the peaks of the four ships. Poor Jack had died -after we had gotten to sea, and the ocean which had -been his home during life, before nightfall was to -cover him with its waves. The boatswain’s call was -not “Heave-to,” as to-day, but piped, which was -echoed through the ship by each of his mates, “All -hands bury the dead” and as the sun went down, -with two of the iron messengers, which he had been -proud to have hurled at the enemies of the star-flag,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">172</span> -tied to his feet, and wrapped in the hammock in -which with stormy lullaby he had often swung, and -swinging, dreamed of home and its endearments, poor -Jack was launched into the sea, and soon sank -“deeper than ever plummet sounded.”</p> - -<p>The next day we encountered a heavy swell and a -stiff breeze, it then became squally, and there was every -indication about the horizon of bad weather approaching. -As it was getting quite rough, and there being danger -of parting the towing-hawsers, the sloops-of-war -were cast off from the steamers, the Saratoga being -signaled to make the best of her way to Shanghae, and -the Plymouth to proceed to our next place of rendezvous—Loo-Choo. -By meridian of the 20th we had -a strong gale of wind on us; top-gallant masts were -sent down, top-masts housed, and storm-sails bent. -At three o’clock the ship pitched away her head-sounding -spars, springing the bowsprit in the cap; -but the wreck of the spars was gotten on board, so as -to give us no trouble by becoming entangled in our -wheels. The Susquehanna lost her sounding-spars -also, or cut them away.</p> - -<p>At night the sea having increased, both steamers -having burnt out a considerable portion of their coal, -rolled deeply and heavily. We lost, by being filled -with the sea, the captain’s gig from our stern-davits,—one -of the prettiest and fastest boats in the squadron. -The next morning, from the port wheel-house a handsome -whale-boat was washed away with oars, sails,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">173</span> -mast, and breaker. By mid-day it became apparent, -that we were in a cyclone, or revolving-gale, and both -ships were “wore” to stand out of it. On the 23d -the gale having moderated, though the barometer still -continued low, we proceeded on our course. This -being the first very ugly weather that we had had -since leaving home, landsmen had a fine opportunity -of enjoying the comforts of a gale of wind—such as -holding on to your basin with one hand, and performing -the ablution with the other; waking up in -the morning, with your shoes floating about, underneath -your cot: at breakfast, the delight of a sticky, -salty atmosphere is increased, by your chair sliding -with you down to leeward with each roll, or, if attempting -to grapple the table with one hand, a cup -of tea precipitates itself inside of your vest, while -you are attempting to secure your nicely-prepared -eggs, that in a moment fresco the deck under foot; -the saccharine is largely mixed with the saline, by -the mingling contents of the sugar-bowl and saltcellar. -This is the pleasurable experience of those, -who “go down to the great deep in ships.”</p> - -<p>We reached the south end of Loo-Choo, on the -evening of the 24th, but the weather being thick and -foggy, could not run into the roads, so stood off during -the night. This day we recorded the occurrence of -the first death—one of the men, who contracted a -fever on board of the Chinese junk lost at the mouth<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">174</span> -of the Yang-tse-kiang. He was buried the next day -in the foreigners’ grove at Tumai.</p> - -<p>On running into Napa-roads the next day, we had -some hopes of finding there the steam-frigate, Powhatan, -of whose sailing from the United States we -had intelligence, but were disappointed. The Supply -lay there alone. From her officers we learned, -that the cyclone, that we were in, had been felt with -great force at Loo-Choo. They had not only to -let go all their anchors, but had also slung some of -their carronades to prevent the ship’s dragging on -the reefs.</p> - -<p>We found that there had been no increase in sociability, -and no improvement in the manners of our -friends, the Loo-Chooans; and probably with the -view to reduce the length of our stay, they had diminished -the supply of provisions to the ships—although -well paid for them. They plead scarcity, even -to sweet potatoes and watermelons, though they -might easily be seen growing in their fields. They -preferred our loving and leaving them, but the commodore -had another interview with his coy-friend, the -regent, in which he desired to know, why they wished -to cut off supplies; also that their officers must cease -to dog our steps on shore, and that they must open -their stores. As a mouse in the talons of the eagle, -they promised everything, and promised a bazar on a -subsequent day, at which the Americans might purchase -whatever they had to sell. While this forcible<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">175</span> -diplomatic wooing was going on, the younger officers, -who had the opportunity, were enjoying the delightful -walk to the Komooe at Sheudi, or killing wild -pigeons and curlew on shore—a delightful gastronomic -episode, after a stretch of salt-junk.</p> - -<p>At daybreak, on the 1st of August, in a public hall -in Napa—the mayor’s office, I believe—the Loo-Chooan -bazar (!) was open. The articles exposed -for sale, were some Japanese fabrics, brought there -by the junks, some domestic cotton-cloth, and specimens -of Loo-Choo lacquer-ware, and chow-chow boxes. -By nine o’clock, A. M.—having “opened a trade” -with Loo-Choo, all were aboard, when the steam-frigates -left for China, taking a look at the Amaccarima -islands as we passed, during the day.</p> - -<p>The next evening, we espied a sail, which proved -to be the United States sloop-of-war Vandalia, -which saluted the commodore, and then laid to for -her captain to repair on board of the flag-ship. We -had hoped for some letters and papers from home by -her, but she had none.</p> - -<p>After running separated for three days, in hopes -of falling in with the Powhatan, the steamers came -in company again, near the southern extremity of -Formosa. At sundown on August 7th, the Mississippi -and Susquehanna, after an absence of three -months and eleven days, dropped anchor in the harbor -of Hong Kong, China.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">176</span></p> - - - - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.</h2> - - -<p>The numerous publications upon China, from the -large folios of the Jesuits, which record their triangulation -of the empire over a century ago, down to -the later books, which afford every detail of the -strange people occupying the “flowery kingdom,” -render an account, of what came under observation, -during the time the Mississippi, lay in the waters -of China, almost superfluous. Yet during our stay, -the state of the Celestials was rather anomalous; -owing to the efforts of a portion of the immense -population under the lead of an insurgent chief, Thaeping, -to overthrow the existing or Tartar government. -This rebellion has been continued so long now, that -it threatens to become <i>chronic</i>.</p> - -<p>At the time of these intestine troubles, the great -number of ladrones or land-pirates, who infest the -vicinity of the densely-populated cities, whose desperate -fortunes, make them indifferent to what government -they may be under, generally seize upon the -opportunity of plundering, and the foreign hongs, or -factories of the American and European merchants,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">177</span> -are always an object of attack, from the quantity of -specie that is known, or believed to be within their -vaults. The existence of the rebellion, and the heavy -freshets in the Pekiang causing much loss and distress, -had also made the ladrones in the vicinity of -Canton very threatening; and a few days after our -return from Japan, our ship was ordered to proceed -to Blenheim Reach, to communicate with the American -consul, and to afford with our force, any aid that -we could in the protection of American property at -Canton, which, notwithstanding the representations -made to our government, has been indebted for some -time past to the protection of the guns of a little -English brig-of-war, which lay off the factories. But -if one thinks of the un-American manner, and the -cockneyism, which marks nearly all of the United -States merchants, who abide and much do congregate -near the walls of Canton, perhaps the protection, -which an English flag would give, is more to their -taste, such at least is my opinion. It occasions no -effort to appreciate the hospitality of these people. -Should you be a merchant-man, and indebted to their -brokerage for the purchase of tea and silk, or the -sale of opium, their spacious-chambers are soon put -at your disposal; but if unfortunately an officer from -some national vessel, your way to the single China-hotel, -with its pent-up rooms, infuriate musquitoes, -and pleasant fried-rat odors, will not be impeded by -them in the slightest degree. During an extended<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">178</span> -stay, they might patronise you, if having the financiering -of the ship to do, with an invitation to a dinner, -or one to a “tiffin;” but they will scarcely be -heard from again, unless when they anticipate an -<i>emeute</i> of the Ladrone population, when a man-of-war -would immediately get representations about the necessity -for some force to protect their coffers.</p> - -<p>Blenheim Reach is about ninety miles from Hong -Kong, and fifteen from Canton, whose port, together -with Whampoa Reach, separated from it by paddy-field -islands, it may be called. It was up this passage -that the English ship “Blenheim” went to Canton, -and was enabled to turn the enemy’s flank during -the late war. Ahead of us laid the huge old East -Indiamen, looking like line-of-battle ships, and waiting -till they got aboard their twenty thousand chests, -and not far from them the <i>Aberdeen clippers</i>, which -may take rank as such only when the <i>American</i> -clippers are away. At Whampoa, off a collection of -most forbidding-looking houses, built over the muddy -water, composing the Chinese town, there lay the -foreign ships, the mandarin watch-boats, the junks, -the chop-hulks from which stores are supplied, the -protestant and catholic floating-bethels for the good -of souls, and the well-armed opium-schooners whose -cargoes destroy bodies.</p> - -<p>We laid in Blenheim Reach under the whole, hissing, -hot sun of August and September. There being a -heavy fresh in the river at the time of our arrival,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">179</span> -the banks were overflown, and our ship did not swing -at her anchors for some days. Old China street at -Canton was a foot under water, and you reached the -entrance to the hongs through the foreign garden, in -a sedan-chair, or on the backs of wading coolies. -During the height of the swollen current, dead Chinamen -floated down and hung in our wheels; and when -the water subsided, the exhalation of fields of alluvial -black mud, and the visits of furious flowery-kingdom -mosquitoes, who, like the ghostly breeches of Mickey -Free’s father, were ever going between us and sleep, -neither contributed to the healthfulness nor comfort -of our anchorage. Our comforts were further increased -by looking upon scenery which was unrelieved -except by a litchee grove here and there. The -weather was terribly hot, and if the thermometer had -been longer, it would have probably been hotter; -with ratan-mat and bamboo-pillow you sought a spot -under the awnings of the hurricane or poop deck, -that you might half-restless and half-snoozing pass the -night, while during the day the windsails were of -little use, and drop and drop came down the tar from -the rigging. Boils and other cutaneous eruptions -affected the crew, with annoyances greater than those -of Job, and yet they had not the salubrious climate -of a Palestine in which to endure them. The dislocating-jaw -beef, and fowls, and fresh food furnished -us by the Chinamen, together with watery vegetables, -nearly destitute of any nutritious qualities, were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">180</span> -only partly compensated for by the half-fresh cherrymoya, -custard-apple, banana, or splendid persimmon—persimmons -splendid! Sometimes we would -have a thunder-storm which would purify the atmosphere -for a time, but back would soon come the stagnated, -sweltering temperature, which neither <i>white</i> -slippers nor grass-cloth could make more comfortable, -and which made the staid, starched, stiff collar, soon -bow its points, and relax into the opaque, prostrate -Byronic. Every one who could, like the personator -of <i>Minerva</i> at Mrs. Leo Hunter’s <i>fétê champétre</i>, carried -a fan. Such weather we had for two months.</p> - -<p>Occasionally, during the month of August, we had -requests for aid from merchant-captains arriving, who -represented their crews in a state of mutiny. After -the confinement of the men, a consular court is usually -held on board to adjudicate the difficulty. I attended -one of these, and was surprised to see what an entirely -<i>ex-parte</i> affair it is; the examination is absurd. -The captain’s testimony is mainly if not entirely -depended on, and if a bad man, may not only -maltreat his crew, without any one to confront him -effectively with the fact, but after having contracted -with his men, for high wages perhaps, in California, -on arriving in China, for some insubordination, prefers -a charge of mutiny; the men are put in irons, -the consul’s decision forfeits their wages, and thus a -speculation is made for the owners. If not this, for -the acts of one or two bad men in a ship, the whole<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">181</span> -crew are put in irons and punished indiscriminately. -One fellow brought aboard of the Mississippi in irons, -called a “mutineer,” and subsequently regularly -shipped, would not have mutinied against a sheep.</p> - -<p>We received almost daily rumors of contemplated -attacks upon the hongs. The latter part of August, -the English brig-of-war “Lily” (<i>painted?</i>) passed up -the river to Canton, being of light draft. In the -event of troubles, the custody of specie and silver-plate -on board of these vessels, pays a handsome percentage -to the commander. A survey of the Macao -passage of the river was made with the hope that our -steamer might be gotten up to Canton, but the collection -of a bar at a barrier which had been made in the -river during the war, by the Chinese, made the water -too shoal to attempt it. We sent up a body of marines, -and howitzers in the storeship Supply, which -vessel lay for a long time off the city. The imperial -authorities at the city were much excited; fleets of -war-junks passed up and down the river in search of -undiscoverable foes; and the governor of the city recommended -to his pig-tail community not to celebrate -the “Feast of the Lanterns,” as it might give the rebels -an opportunity for outbreak, and also notified that in -the event of an attack, it must be a <i>sauve qui peut</i> -business with them, as he could not extend them protection.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile the officers of the ship, in an armed -fast-boat, paid frequent visits to the city; at times for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">182</span> -visits merely and purchases, and at others, when -emergency seemed to require, with armed cutters and -howitzers. The objects on the route all became -familiar, as if going up and down one of our own -rivers—the pagodas, the water-side joss-houses—the -rows of the plantain-trees skirting the fields, and the -big-sailed craft going lazily along in the mud canals -that intersected them. We soon came and went through -the huge water-craft moored head and stern in the -approach to the city, and through the lanes of the innumerable -small boats, with their three hundred -thousand water population, or noticed the small ferryboats, -in which, at the fourth of a cent each, thirty -thousand people cross and re-cross daily, without -interest almost. You might stroll the streets beyond -the walls, and purchase the curiously-carved ivory -and the many elegant and ingeniously-made articles -of China, but the shopkeeper was in considerable -trepidation and would speculate much on the “too -muchee bobbery,” as he called the anticipated fighting.</p> - -<p>I was there during the feast of the Lanterns. In -going out from the solitary hotel, kept by Acow—<i>compradore</i> -of one of our former commissioners to -China, from whom, I suppose, he learned the little -English he knew—you generally, through the volunteer -aid of the Jemmy-Twitcher Mongols, immediately -part with your kerchief and gloves, and it is no matter -that you saw the celestial who took them, for if<span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">183</span> -he once mixes with the crowd you could no more undertake -to individualize him than you would be able -to tell a particular spoke in a revolving-wheel. By -you, passes a fellow with as much timber locked -around his neck, for some offence, as a mortar-board -would contain. Of the innumerable gongs beating, -one struck at intervals attracts your attention. The -fellow who strikes it is walking the street in front of -a bare-backed malefactor, whose queue is wrapped -around his head, and whose hands are tied behind -him. As he walks, at each tap of the gong from the -man in front, a following attendant lashes him with -split ratan. It would take too long to enumerate the -scenes witnessed in a Chinese street. During the -day the bonzes marched through the streets attired in -their yellow robes, stopping at intervals to chin-chin -joss, by beating on gongs. At night tall prosceniums -and staging are erected at the entrances of streets, -just inside of their gates, and extending up as high as -the roofs of the houses. These are most gorgeously -and grotesquely decorated, and lit up with large fantastic -lanterns and small lamps, looking like hundreds -of illuminated lemons; adown either side of -the streets are hung other lanterns in front of each -store-door. The expense of all this, and the compensation -of the performers, who represent the “sing-song” -on the stage, and go on with their horrible -caterwauling to the great delight of the throng in the -narrow street below, is paid by subscription from the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">184</span> -occupants of the street. An old Chinaman, of whom -we purchased chess-men, advised us not to be away -from our hotel too long, as there were many “two -facee—no good pigeon-men”—in the crowd, who -had no love for foreigners.</p> - -<p>At the time of this visit, I saw many of the celebrities -about Canton; the remarkable and magnificent -gardens of the old China millionaire <i>Howqua</i>, where -artificial landscapes, cascades, and plants, trained in -the exact image of all kinds of animals, are to be seen -in perfection; old Curiosity street, with its costly jade-stone -spectacles, &c., and by accident, the spot, where -some young Englishmen, captured during the war, -were taken to, and beheaded by the Chinese.</p> - -<p>The last of September, we were relieved by the -arrival of the Susquehanna, when we ran down the -river to Cum-sing-moon. As we approached the anchorage, -we discovered the storeship Southampton, -not long from Valparaiso. When she was about a -thousand miles from Luzon, she picked up a boat, containing -three men and a boy. When brought aboard, -their long, black hair, high cheek-bones, and dusky -complexion indicated a Malayan origin. All they -could say was “<i>Sallie Baboo</i>” and they were most -likely driven out to sea, from the group of that name, -while passing with vegetables in their frail shallop, -between the islands. A building having been rented -at Macao, as an hospital for the sick and infirm of -our squadron, the <i>Sallie Baboos</i> were kept ashore<span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">185</span> -there for some time. The boy, about twelve years -old, evinced some sprightliness, and got hold of some -sentences in English, but the confidence to speak a -single word in our language, was a plant of the slowest -possible growth with the older ones.</p> - -<p>We found the Powhatan and Macedonian at anchor -in the harbor. They had been laying there for -exercise in target-firing and in squadron boat-sailing. -Unfortunately one of the officers of the Powhatan—Lieutenant -Adams, from exposure to the intense heat -of the sun, while engaged in the latter duty—was -taken very ill, and a very few days after our arrival, -our ship performed the melancholy office of conveying -his remains to Macao for interment. On our arrival -in the roads at that place, we found there the -French surveying-frigate Constantine, who, upon seeing -our colors half-mast, in compliment half-masted -her own. The day of interment the weather was so -rough, that a Portuguese lorcha had to be employed -to take the body and its escort to the shore. His -remains were followed to the grave by his messmates, -the officers of the French ship, those of the Portuguese -garrison ashore, and proper escort of marines -with ship’s band. He was buried in a beautiful spot -in the English cemetry, adjoining the garden “<i>Ubi -Camoens opus egregium compossuisse fertur</i>,” and -by the side of a brother-officer—Lieutenant Campbell, -of the United States schooner Enterprise, and -the grave of Edmond Roberts, special diplomatic<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">186</span> -agent of the United States to several Asiatic courts, -who died in the East in 1836.</p> - -<p>October the 31st, the Mississippi returned to <i>Cumsing-moon</i>, -which in the celestial dialect means, -“Golden-sun-born-pass,” but the man who could so -call it, must be</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">“—— of imagination all compact:</div> - <div class="verse">See Helen’s beauty in a brow of Egypt!”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>The most naked, barren, desolate prospect; a partly-cultivated -island, between which and the main-land, -the muddy river sweeps in a current—and a collection -of Chinese hovels, which form nests for the river-pirates, -who rob fast and post boats on their way to -Canton and levy on the fortunes of the fishermen, -compose the attractive picture, which the <i>Golden-sun-born-pass</i> -presents.</p> - -<p>Here is the principal anchorage of the opium-hulks; -and Great Britain, a party to the “holy alliance,” -that said that no member of the Bonaparte -family should sit on the throne of France, and yet -has her legions side by side with those of Louis Napoleon—who -keeps a squadron on the coast of Africa -for the suppression of the slave-trade, here displays -more of her boasted consistency, and covers with her -flag, a traffic more iniquitous. It is nothing to England, -that opium is an article contraband of the laws -of China; from the enticing poison produced in her -possessions, she gets a large income in revenue; her -ships bring the drug to China, and smuggle it in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">187</span> -armed vessels along its coasts; and with her protection, -the vile poppy has medicined thousands to a -sleep that knows no waking. She cares for syce -silver, not for bodies or souls. But it must be said, -that the Parsees with their “Benares” opium, and -even Jonathan, though he does not fly his flag, have -a share in the traffic; that some of the drug is even -grown in China, and that a trade thrust upon that -country by the throats of English cannon, is now connived -at, and embarked in by corrupt mandarins, -who share in the profits of its smuggling, while their -duties require them to discover such offenders, and -bring their heads under the executioner’s sword.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_186f.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">CHINA.</div> -</div> - -<p>A considerable portion of the opium consumed in -China, is produced in its southern departments. Its -growth is as much a violation of the imperial law, as -its introduction into the Cinque ports by foreigners -is violative of treaty stipulation. The bribed mandarin -governors derive a large income, by looking another -way in their official perambulations when a -poppy-seed field is reached; or it may be that the -<i>papaver somniferum</i> has such an effect upon them, -that they go past in a somnambulic state. There being -no edict requiring of mandarins a knowledge of -botany, they have no desire to learn the difference -between a poppy-flower and any other. Add to this -the demoralized condition, or rather the moral-less -condition, of a large infanticide-practising population, -who once having gotten the habit, become<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">188</span> -willing victims of the drug, and its introduction and -continued consumption, becomes an easy matter;—they -first endured, they now embrace.</p> - -<p>There are Chinese who contend that opium is good -for the health. It may, like intoxicating liquors, be -used in moderation, but its use once acquired, its -strides upon the appetite of its votary, are far more -speedy, and fatal in results.</p> - -<p>The story of opium-using—which is synonymous -with its excessive use, need hardly be repeated here; -how, instead of the brains out, and the man dying, -the brain dies and the man may still live on; how -the robustness of youth is suddenly changed into the -infirmity of old age; the limbs shrivel, the chest -sinks, the shoulders stoop, the bones protrude—the -sunken cheeks, the ghastly hue of the complexion, -the extreme attenuation of the neck, causing the head -to sink between the shoulders, and appear disproportionate, -and the man to move about a walking skeleton; -or how the debauchee once accustomed to the use of -the drug, becomes as secure in its grasp as an ox in -the coils of the huge serpent of Brazil—the successive -stages gone through, when in its power; the victim -wrapped in dreamy hallucination is fiendishly -mocked with the imaginary enjoyment of a seventh -heaven;—the alternation to a supernatural excitement; -the eye glaring demoniacally, and all the brutish -passions of human nature possessing him, or the look -changing to the listless, leaden, dull, inane leer of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">189</span> -idiocy, when the curtain falls upon the death-rattles -of agony. Two instances of the excessive use of -opium came more immediately under my observation; -one a jeweller at Macao, who was a hale, hearty-looking -man upon the occasion of our first visit, yet on our -return from Japan, had undergone frightful emaciation -from its effects. The other was a Chinese teacher, -who had been employed for the purpose of putting -communications into the mandarin dialect. He was -buried at sea, on the passage of the Susquehanna -from Loo-Choo to Bonin, and those who witnessed his -death, represent it as one of terrible contortion and -suffering.</p> - -<p>The opium stored on the hulks at Cum-sing-moon, -comprises the Benares, the Patna, and Malwa. It is -put up in balls and packed in chests. On its receipt, -the custodian of the hulk proceeds to assort it, and -with a view of testing its quality, and preparing its -samples for the examination of the purchaser, small -quantities of each case are boiled in water, strained -through brown paper, and then, by the heat of a fire, -reduced to the consistency of thick paste or molasses, -which it somewhat resembles, when it is placed in -little cups.</p> - -<p>The owners generally reside in Canton, where most -of the sales are made; and it is a specie business. -A case may sometimes sell for six hundred dollars, -and there have been times, when it would sell for -double that amount. The article, like our most south<span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">190</span>ern -staple, is liable to great fluctuation in price, and -large fortunes have been made and lost by it.</p> - -<p>The following extracts from some old letters, nearly -obliterated, found floating about the harbor, from -houses in Canton to their agents on the hulks at “the -Moon,” as it is briefly called, will give an idea of the -business <i>operandi</i>:—</p> - -<p>“To-day I have passed two delivery letters on you, -each for three (3) chests of Malwa opium, both in -favor of the Chinaman Ehing, wherefore you will -take no suspicion about the delivery. Both these -letters are drawn by me for six chests of Malwa.</p> - -<p>“I will also thank you to pass one of the two -chests, Nos. 1 and 2; pass one of them among the six.”</p> - -<p>Another ran: “We have before us your note of -the 3d, relating to order No. 852, for one chest -Malwa, and note that you had retained the order, -the holder declining to take the opium.</p> - -<p>“Having now, however, agreed to take the drug -under the same order, you will please deliver it accordingly, -but without reduction, as he must take it, -having already paid the money. We leave it to your -judgment, however, to allow a small reduction, should -he insist upon it.”</p> - -<p>These ships are well armed and numerously manned, -mostly with Lascars. The living on them is very -sumptuous. Some years ago Cum-sing-moon was visited -by a terrible typhoon, when these hulks broke -from their moorings; some were driven entirely out<span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">191</span> -of the harbor, others came in contact, stove and -sunk. The United States sloop-of-war Plymouth was -lying there at the time, and got considerable salvage -for property saved.</p> - -<p>The river-pirates make this place their rendezvous -during the night. They would seize and rob boats -just off the mouth of the harbor: their boats are fast -sailers. The fast-boat of our compradore, when -bringing us provisions from Macao, had to run a -daily gauntlet of the rascals. But a young Portuguese -officer, in command of a small armed lorcha, -used to pursue them with much success. One night, -about nine o’clock, having got intelligence of their -whereabouts, while we lay at Cum-sing-moon, he ran -quietly into the harbor, and putting his men in Sampan-boats, -he fell into a nest of them and peppered -the rascals right and left. Their crafts are then -taken to Macao and sold, furnishing a kind of prize-money.</p> - -<p>The long and fast-sailing mandarin-boats, that -smuggle the opium, usually get here in the evening. -The captains of the hulks make them anchor some -distance from their ships, because of their carelessness -in the use of powder; some of them would quietly -sit over an open tank of it and smoke their pipes, -believing that if they are blown up it is a fatality which -they can not prevent. These boats are armed, and -well manned, and when there is no wind to expand -their large sails, they pull as many as a hundred<span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">192</span> -sweep-oars moving through the water like great centipedes. -After their large crews have had their -paddy chow-chow, in the most clamorous and discordant -manner, they proceed to chin-chin joss, as the -sun goes down, by banging on gongs and tom-toms; -but before midnight they have paid down their pile -of specie, gotten their chests of the drug aboard, and -are moving off up the river to Canton.</p> - -<p>We left Cum-sing-moon and its enlivening prospects -in the middle of November, and went over -to Hong Kong, and thence we triangulated, as it -were, to Macao and Whampoa, and so back. At -Macao we spent our time, when ashore, by promenades -on the Praya, where, at eventide, the dark-eyed -daughters of the decayed Portuguese aristocracy -cast furtive glances at the stranger, and listened -to the music of one of our squadron-bands, which the -commodore, who was living at Macao, had ashore -with him; or strolled through the barrier-gate and -out on the <i>campo</i>; or witnessed the wonderful nerve -displayed by the knife-throwing Chinese jugglers in -the street.</p> - -<p>While laying in the roads at Macao, a young -Russian officer who had, with a squadron from his -country, visited the port of Nangasaki, brought the -intelligence that the emperor of Japan had died after -our visit, and that the Japanese said they would have -to mourn him for <i>three</i> years, during which time -they could have no transactions or negotiations with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">193</span> -foreigners. We thought the demise might be true—perhaps -a <i>hari-kari</i> hastened it, but that the latter -thing was all “leather and prunella;” the emperor -might have died, but another, like poor Pillicoddy, -must turn up, when we next visited the country.</p> - -<p>About this time the Plymouth, which had been sent, -on our departure from Loo-Choo in August, to the -Bonin islands, arrived at Macao, bringing the sad intelligence -that a boat from that ship containing one -of her lieutenants—Lieutenant Mathews, of New -York—and fourteen men, out on a fishing excursion, -while the ship was lying at Peel island, had been lost -in a sudden typhoon on the 5th of October, and that -all hands had perished.</p> - -<p>Preparations being on foot for the return of the -squadron to Japan, as soon as the storeship Lexington -should arrive, and the services of the storeship -Supply being needed for the transportation from -China of coal for the steamers, a small English -steamer recently built at Hong Kong, was chartered -on behalf of the United States government, to take -her place off the factories at Canton. She was armed -with four guns, and a lieutenant, passed-midshipman, -and one engineer ordered to her, besides being manned -from the squadron—the American flag waved over -the “Queen!”</p> - -<p>On the 19th of December we stood up the river -with the Hon. Humphrey Marshall, United States -commissioner to China, on board, who was going<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">194</span> -to take possession of his residence at Canton. We -reached Whampoa at three o’clock, and found there -the British war-steamer Rattler, that had not long -before taken an active part in the capture of Rangoon. -Her officers had many a kriss and spear trophy of the -enemy, and around her engines were well-cut Buddhist -idols in marble, which they had brought away with -them.</p> - -<p>The next day the commissioner left for Canton, and -beside receiving his salute of seventeen guns, was -accompanied in barges by a suite of officers, an escort -of marines, and a band of music—a “grand function” -accompanying the movements of prominent foreign -personages, always has a great effect with the impressionable -Celestials. The American shipping in -the Reach fired a number of guns as Mr. Marshall -passed up, and dipped their colors. The party accompanying -remained in the city some days; I availed -myself of the opportunity of making the circuit of the -walls, and in company with the chaplain of the ship -and a messmate, we started in the morning, Rev. S. -W. Bonney, a resident missionary, most kindly acting -as conductor. He has been in China eight years and -speaks the language. To take the tramp considerable -perseverance is necessary. You have to thread -your way through streets so narrow, that at times -you can easily touch the houses on either side by extending -your hands, down into which the sun never -comes, densely packed with human beings, and over<span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">195</span> -granite flagging, for ever kept muddy by the innumerable -feet in motion over them from day-dawn to midnight. -Then you must keep on the alert and quickly -step aside to the sill of some shopdoor, or you may -be run into by one of the thousand porters—the sole -conveyances of Chinese cities—whose short grunt in -your rear, as he toddles beneath the burden suspended -from the bamboo-pole on his shoulder, warns you to -get out of his way; or perhaps you may get a punch -in the rear from the ferruled shalves of some high -functionary or rich merchant’s sedan-chair, as they -rest on the shoulders of the coolies, who carry him -along at a dog-trot. On our route we stopped in a -number of shops. In one there was seated an Albino-Chinese, -seventy-five years old. A rat-merchant informed -us that his stock on hand was rather light -now, but would be larger in a day or two; while in a -turning-establishment, we were shown the Chinese -lathe which only turns half way. The perpendicular -red and gilded signs to the shops were read to us; -such as “May the customers come from the west, like -clouds, and when they have purchased, may those from -the east come.” We visited a kind of aceldama—the -Quan-tung province execution ground—a filthy triangular -square in the lower part of the suburbs, running -to the river; the place was repulsive in the extreme. -On a cross, suspended so that his feet just cleared the -ground, had been strangled a culprit, above his head -an inscription telling the offence for which he had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">196</span> -suffered; while under a shed, near by, was a pile of -heads, their long queus matted in blood. The executions -by decapitation, during our stay, were very -numerous; fifty-nine were to be executed the next -day. The culprits are made to kneel, a man stands -behind them and raises both of their arms backward, -as you would a pump-handle, which brings the neck -comparatively horizontal, when one blow from the -cleaver-like sword of the practised executioner, severs -the head from the trunk. A woman who had killed -her liege lord was to be cut to pieces. The laws of -China are very severe in the punishment of female -offenders—“Women’s Rights” are below par—and -it is a land which would not be adapted for the residence -of the “strong-minded” women of our own -country, Chinese prophecy having foretold the downfall -of their empire by the machinations of women.</p> - -<p>We passed through one corner of the city proper, -which, though permitted by treaties, is still a risky -business. We were quick in our movements and -were scarcely observed by the Tartar soldier on the -look-out for rebels. This gave us an opportunity of -seeing the thickness of the wall. We went in at the -gate of the “Rising Sun,” crossed a small hypotenuse, -and came out at the gate of the “Tranquil -Ocean.”</p> - -<p>We next emerged into an open space on the north -side of the city, used for drilling their soldiers, and -where archery is practised on horseback at full<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">197</span> -speed, the most successful shot having as his prize, -his name recorded in a temple near by. We crossed -the place with a number of boys crying after us as we -walked, “Fanqui! Fanqui!” (foreign devil), and -passed under a recent triumphal arch of granite, -erected by subscription and by imperial permission. -The inscription would be news to the English: it told -in grandiloquent terms, how the outside barbarians -during the war, were repulsed by Chinese valor from -their walls. Not far from here we stopped at a refreshment-house, -and got tea and sweetmeats. Here, -as at every other point, if we stopped for a moment, -a crowd collected around. One would hold up an -infantile “pig-tail” to the window, that he might see -the “outside barbarian” inside, eat; while an old -fellow created considerable laughter by pointing to -my mustache—the wearing of the mustache among -the Chinese indicating a grandfather. There not -being any house for some distance, we walked close -under the walls for some time. They were quite -high, built of stone, capped with brick, almost covered -with creepers and vines, and had at intervals -projecting angles for look-out purposes.</p> - -<p>We were now out of the suburbs, having on our left -a valley shaded with the bamboo and banyan, and -containing granite vat-shaped wells, from which the -water was being continually carried within the walls. -We ascended a high hill on which a number of goats -were browsing, and seated ourselves on the steps of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">198</span> -a fort. This place was captured by the English after -much difficulty, being compelled to drag their guns -a long distance from the river, over rice-fields; and -here it was that, after getting possession, they got the -mortifying intelligence that the commodore had granted -a truce. The inscription on the gateway told how -it had been placed there to guard the city, and to -watch those who came to plunder. From here you -could see over the walls, and look down upon the city -within, the houses of which did not appear more numerous -than outside; and we could discern the consular-flags -at the hongs, that we had left some hours -before, in the extreme distance to the east.</p> - -<p>It is almost to be regretted that the English should -have consented to treat with the enemy, and given up -this fort, when they had the whole city at their feet, -and could have given these treacherous, malignant, -cruel, dictatorial, self-conceited, vain people, a lesson -in enlightenment, which would have lasted them a -long time, and procured a little more deference for -the “rest of mankind.”</p> - -<p>Descending from here we had a sight of an old -mosque, and also of a dead-house, where the Chinese -frequently allow their deceased relatives to remain for -six months at a time, until their bonzes shall designate -some <i>lucky</i> spot in which, in their trunk-of-tree-looking -coffin, they may be buried. In a hill-side -cemetery we saw persons worshipping at the tombs -of their relatives, and burning joss-paper; also noticed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">199</span> -a Chinese funeral, the mourners in white. We returned -by the western suburbs, and after stopping a -while to take a look at the oil-mongers’ hall—each -calling in Canton having a similar building—a kind -of ’change, we elbowed our way to the hongs which -we reached about three o’clock, having left them at -ten in the morning, during the whole of which time, -Mr. Bonney, while very polite in his attentions and explanations -to us, like one properly imbued with the -spirit of his mission, as he is, distributed his “Yesoo” -or Christian tracts to those whom he would first ascertain, -could read them in Chinese, being nearly the -only medium by which it may be hoped to introduce -Christianity into that country.</p> - -<p>A jaunt around the walls of Canton one is glad <i>to -have</i> taken; you are subjected to annoyances and -names, if not violence. Some called after us, “Kill -them as the brute,” and others made sign of throat-cutting, -mostly young people, who were reproved by -Mr. Bonney in their language, still it was best to keep -on at a brisk pace, and obey fully the injunction given -to Lot’s wife. This was discreet. We escaped a -shower of the missiles with which those who adventure -the tramp are sometimes saluted; two only being -thrown at us, one, not very large, taking me back -of the neck, and the other falling between one of my -companions and myself.</p> - -<p>In the evening we crossed the river and paid a visit -to the pagan temple of Honan, that large structure,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">200</span> -where the disciples of Buddha worship him with his -three faces, representing the past, present, and future. -The buildings of this temple cover a space of thirty-five -acres, and an orange-garden, and place for -burying the deceased priests and the wealthy dead, -fifteen acres more. The main building, whose approach -is under a noble growth of banyan-trees, is -over, one hundred feet square, filled with colossal -demon images of wood and gilt, who keep off evil -spirits, together with twenty-four gods of pity. The -number of priests is between one and two hundred, -all eating at the same table, though vegetables and -rice supply the place of black broth. Then they show -their porcine affinity; having there the sacred pigs—so -fat that their eyes may not be seen, and who are -fattened till they die. The time of our visit was after -sundown. We visited the apartments of the abbot -of the establishment, who was evidently just recovering -from the effects of opium. This old fellow, once -almost felt persuaded to become a Christian; that is, -he almost made up his mind to come to the Christian -country of the United States, but his infirmity and -the dislike to leave a certain support for the balance -of his days, prevented it. To say that he would have -been willing to change his creed, would be almost a -negation of terms. What religious creed has a Chinaman? -If any, it is a bundle of negatives. He -thinks nothing in such a connection: he believes nothing. -How can you change him from a position,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">201</span> -when you do not know where he stands? how can -you change his belief when he has none? You had -as well beat the air.</p> - -<p>This old abbot desired Mr. Bonney to tell us that -there was a Chinese lady who had reached Canton -from Peking, who was desirous of uniting her fortunes -for the balance of her days to a foreigner: her feet -were only some two and a half inches long. We desired -him to be informed that it “Was not at all -in our way.”</p> - -<p>The next day I left Canton for the ship in one of -the barges, which came up for the purpose of carrying -down specie for the use of the squadron. They -were all well armed; though the river-pirates are -always, by some fraternal telegraph, posted of the -movements of treasure to Whampoa, they will scarcely -dare attack a man-of-war’s boats, yet if not watched, -they are willing to attempt, the apparently accidental, -running down of a boat with treasure, that -they may subsequently fish it up, knowing as they do -every spot.</p> - -<p>The 25th of December—a drizzly, disagreeable -Sunday, that was not “Happy, happy Christmas, -that can win us back to the delusion of our childish -days, and transport the sailor and the traveller, thousands -of miles away, back to his own fireside and his -quiet home,”—saw us passing the fortifications of the -Bogue, which stupidly neglect crown-batteries with -admirable physical formation for them, by which the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">202</span> -rigging, tops, and spars of an enemy’s ship might be -sorely troubled, bound down through the Cap-sing-moon -passage, back of Lantow island, to Hong Kong. -The next day the Lexington arrived.</p> - -<p>The news of the death of Vice-President King we -had seen, but the official intelligence we did not get -for some time. On the 29th of December, in honor -of the deceased, each American man-of-war in the -harbor, fired minute guns at daybreak, mid-day, and -sundown. In this they were very courteously joined -by the English flag-ship Winchester, commanded by -Admiral Sir Fleetwood Pellew, son of Lord Exmouth -of naval renown.</p> - -<p>The beginning of 1854 found us in the harbor of -Hong Kong, preparing for departure for Japan, and -awaiting the arrival of the next oriental mail-steamer. -The intervening time was occupied in coaling the -storeships, and in an occasional dramatic performance -on one of the steamers; a thing not at all calculated -to improve discipline; whose burnt-cork and dramatic -performances make “Rome howl” much oftener than -good sailors; besides, the lights employed not contributing -to the safety of a man-of-war from fire. At -such times the quarter-deck awnings are usually elevated, -and draped with the numerous flags; underneath, -chandeliers of windsail-hoops and lashed bayonets -and suspended overhead, the guns rolled out of -the way, the mainmast decked with palm-branches; -and when the music arises in the floating ball-room,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">203</span> -the guests flit in the mazes of the dance, and nothing -interrupts the twinkling feet of the <i>en-bon-point</i> English -women save an occasional ring-bolt in the deck. -Tables were spread in the different messes. At such -times, “H. E., Sir Samuel, K. C. B., governor and -commander-in-chief, and vice-admiral,” and the “major-general, -K. H., of the forces,” and the officers of -the “59th,” and foreign naval officers, were aboard.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">204</span></p> - - - - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</h2> - - -<p>Six months precisely from the day of the first -landing of the Americans in Japan, the mail having -arrived from Suez, and the other vessels of the -squadron having left in advance, we prepared to follow. -On the morning of the 14th of January, the -black smoke rolling away from their funnels, announced -steam being gotten up on three as large war-steamers -as were to be seen in any waters—the -Powhatan, the Susquehanna, and the old Mississippi -steam-frigates. Considering their size, it was a sight -that the harbor of Hong Kong had never before witnessed, -and will no doubt be many a day before it -shall see again. At half-past ten in the morning, -everything being ready, agreeably to signal the ships -got under way, the Susquehanna leading out, and the -Powhatan and Mississippi following, with the Lexington -and Southampton in tow. As the flag-ship passed -the Winchester, the English admiral manned his -rigging, cheered, and fired a parting salute, which -was returned promptly.</p> - -<p>The first part of the run we had fine steaming<span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">205</span>weather. -We stood up to Breaker Point on the -China coast, and then headed across the channel for -the south end of the island of Formosa. In three -days this land was in sight, and we ran past it on a -lovely evening, with the cultivation and fine growth -of trees in full view. The setting sun soon lit up gorgeously -the whole picture, and nature in its beauty having -no barbaric phase, one could scarcely realize that -a spot so lovely to the sight, was the home of a lot of -throat-cutting, piratical Chinese refugees. Before -daylight disappeared, we saw the lonely spike-headed -<i>Velo Rete</i> rocks, standing in mid-ocean, a dreaded -thing to mariners, and right ahead was visible the -conical little island of <i>Botel Tobago</i>.</p> - -<p>At night we passed the island of Sammassama, inhabited -by a peculiar people. In two days more we -had rough, stormy weather, and the ships in tow -were cast off to proceed under sail. The navigation -among the islands on the northeastern side of Formosa, -owing to the currents, becomes very intricate.</p> - -<p>On the night of the 19th we could hear the breakers, -on the reef surrounding the island of Typinsan, -on which the Providence, English twenty-gun ship, -was wrecked in 1790. We passed the Amakarimas -on the 21st, and in the evening the three steamers -anchored in the roads of Napa, Loo-Choo, where we -found the razee Macedonian, the sloop-of-war Vandalia, -and the storeship Supply. In a few days the two -other storeships arrived, and the weather became very<span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">206</span> -rough. The sea broke and tumbled furiously in over -the reefs, while the ships rolled at their moorings, and -communication by boat between them was almost discontinued.</p> - -<p>About this time a young assistant engineer of the -Susquehanna died, and the boats that accompanied -the body for burial ashore, had to row through the -heavy sea. Pity but that he had been left at Macao, -from which place he had written to his friends not to -write him again as he would soon be home. Poor -fellow, it was his long home he soon went to.</p> - -<p>The boisterous weather continuing, the carpenters -were unable to transfer a deck cabin from the Susquehanna -to the Powhatan, to which vessel it was in -contemplation to transfer the flag, or to discharge the -coal from the Supply and land it.</p> - -<p>The Mississippi having been as deep as usual with -her coal, on leaving Hong Kong, and rolling heavily -in her run from that place, was found, while laying at -her anchors, to leak from twenty-two to twenty-four -inches of water, in twenty-four hours, which was -deemed sufficient by those on board, considering how -flat a floor the ship had.</p> - -<p>On the 31st of January, the weather having become -more favorable, agreeably to order, the Macedonian, -Vandalia, Southampton, and Lexington, got -under way and stood handsomely out of the harbor, -bound on their first visit to Japan. An exploration -party by land, left, on the same morning, for the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">207</span> -northern part of the island, where it had been said -powder was manufactured, and that there was coal. -The result of the exploration was the bringing back -some of the “coal <i>blossom</i>,” from which some were -sanguine, that there was coal on the island. It will -be many a day before any steamer will cross the -Pacific in the latitude of Loo-Choo; and Napa will -never be the place selected for coaling.</p> - -<p>During the night a poor devil of a Loo-Chooan -paddled off to the Susquehanna, soliciting safety, -from some on shore, whom he motioned, were going -to kill him. Not having previously, “declared his intention -in the United States,” it was not possible to -get up another Koszta affair! His canoe was hoisted -on board, and the man put under the sentry’s charge. -The converted missionary at Napa—Dr. Bettelheim, -expressed the belief, that the poor creature was a -spy. This opinion was not at all surprising from the -Dr., who never displayed amiability toward the population, -and in answer to an inquiry about their -history, or their upper classes, his response was “They -are all liars—not a word of truth in them.” This -feeling appeared to be entirely reciprocated by the -Loo-Chooans, to whom his presence appeared most -distasteful.</p> - -<p>When other mediums than himself were adopted -for the procurement of eatables, &c., we generally -found, that we succeeded better. The Loo-Chooans -are not in a condition to receive gospel-truth, and his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">208</span> -efforts at proselyting were all well known in Japan, -and any protection, that we might appear to extend -to him, or the slightest, even apparent co-operation -with him, were not at all calculated to advance the -desires of our government with the Japanese. Besides -this, it is said, that some, temporarily connected -with the squadron, distributed “Yesoo” -or religious tracts among the people, during our -stay, which was not adventitious for our objects -with a people, to whom in his letter, to allay their -ever-active suspicions, in the first paragraph, the -president had deemed it necessary to say, that the -envoy he had sent them was “no missionary of -religion.” Certain it is that no attempt at increasing -the field of missionary labor, among the jealous, -tenacious, and suspicious Niphon race, who chiefly inhabit -the northwest islands of the Pacific, can ever -go <i>pari passu</i> with efforts to establish treaty relations -and commercial intercourse, unless like Mohammed -preaching against the idols of the Kaaba, the cimetar -gleams in one hand, while the Good Book is upheld by -the other.</p> - -<p>Dr. Bettelheim having received intelligence from -England, of being superseded by another missionary, -named Moreton, was with his family tendered a passage -in the Supply to China. He left behind more -patients than proselytes; poor patients, grateful for -the physical assistance, which his Esculapian art had -enabled him to extend to them, when afflicted with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">209</span> -the noxious diseases of the island. This medicinal -aid was, no doubt, often extended under difficulty—the -want of faith in the remedy by the afflicted, and -the sneers of the bystanding native <i>Hippocrates</i>. I -remember on one occasion, being attracted by a -group, who gathered around a white-headed old native, -who had fallen apparently in a fit. As he lay -stretched upon the ground, some held up his head at -intervals, and attempted to give him chah or warm -tea to drink, while a native Sangrado, was leopardizing -him with <i>mochsa</i> burning. Dr. Bettelheim, who -was by, thought the man should be bled, but he said, -“If I bleed him, and he recovers, they will say, the -<i>mochsa</i> cured him; if I bleed him and he dies, they -will declare I killed him.”</p> - -<p>It was understood that the commodore had purchased -or procured from the authorities, the place on -shore at Tumai, where our coal had been stored, and -over which a shed had been erected. It was left in -charge of an acting master’s mate, who had command -of a number of invalid seamen, quartered in a building -not far off. The American flag floated over the -coal shed, for the first time, on the 5th of February.</p> - -<p>During this visit the people appeared rather more -friendly than usual. We took our walks as formerly to -the castellated and beautiful Sheudi. The vernacular -had been slightly acquired by the juveniles; a small -boy in a school counted twelve for me in English -quite plainly, while others desiring to display the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">210</span> -activity peculiar to juvenility, when scrambling for -coppers, would say as you passed, “American—how -do you do?”</p> - -<p>On the 3d of February, the commodore with a -suite and military escort similar to the one of June -6th preceding, paid another official visit to the palace -at Sheudi: a proceeding anything else than devoutly -wished for by the prince-regent. The palace-gates were -opened and we were ushered into the former hall of -audience. On this occasion a number of American -gold and silver coin were left with them, for which -they were informed, that on the return of the squadron, -they were to give an equivalent in similar metals -of their currency. They would gladly have avoided -this, but they felt themselves the victims of a gently-forcible -suasion, that there was no getting around.</p> - -<p>A banquet was spread as before, and as each guest -left the building, an attendant functionary at the -door handed him a red slip of paper written on in -the mandarin character, which proved to be kind of -hospitality shares, and on their presentation at the city -of Napa, entitled the holder to a “cumshaw” of a -pipe and pouch, and bundle of paper.</p> - -<p>On the 7th of February the three steamers left -Loo-Choo for Japan. On getting outside of the harbor -a sail hove in sight, which proved to be the sloop-of-war -Saratoga from Shanghae. We lay to for an -hour and a half, getting from her in boats, bullocks -and provisions that she had brought. At five in the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">211</span> -evening we were off the northern part of Loo-Choo -island—“Mellville,” which had been surveyed by -Captain Beechy, R. N., and resurveyed by boats from -our squadron.</p> - -<p>We got, after leaving Loo-Choo, what the sailors -call a good “slant” of wind, and ran free under canvass -as well as steam. On the night of the 11th it -came on thick and chilly, and found us groping our -way among the chain of islands just southward of -Ohosima. One steamer was unable to discern the -lights of another, and the midnight navigation was -not rendered any more pleasurable by the corybantic -sea, or the reflection that during the day we had discovered -dangerous rocks poking their points above -the water, not laid down upon the charts, which would -punch a hole in the bottom of a ship with no compunction. -But it is remarkable what indifference or -philosophy takes possession of those, who are accustomed -to plough the great deep, upon such occasions. -They may know the peril of the locality in -which they are sailing, yet they turn in as usual; sleep -and snore, and reck not of what may come.</p> - -<p>The next morning was Sunday: we had left Japan -on that day, and we were now returning to it. The -sun came up bright and clear, but the air had become -very cold, and penetrated the ear painfully as we -stood upon deck, because of the transition from the -more genial temperature of Loo-Choo, which we had -left a few days before. On our right hand was <i>Oho<span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">212</span>sima</i>—the -smoke slowly ascending from its volcano -like incense from nature’s altar, while right ahead of -us were the mountain ranges of the shore of Japan -wrapped in snow—yes snow, a thing we had not laid -eyes on for many a month before:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">And as springs in deserts found, seem sweet,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">“All brackish though they be,”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>so this even chilling remembrance, brought up a -warmth of recollection of our own country.</p> - -<p>Having drifted a good deal during the night, daylight -found us opposite the wrong bay—that of -Kawatsoo, instead of Yedo. But lucky so it was, for -on approaching, two ships were descried in under the -land. On reaching signal distance we made out the -numbers, flying at their mast-heads, to be those of the -Macedonian and Vandalia. The latter vessel, being -the nearest, soon telegraphed the flag-ship “ashore is -the Macedonian,” this vessel the night before, when -thick and hazy, having gotten on a reef. When we -came up she had thrown over a number of things to -lighten her, and had slung and buoyed her guns too, -to let them go, if necessary. Signal was made for -the three ships to come to anchor. In the afternoon, -the sea being smoother, the Mississippi was directed -to pull the Macedonian off the reef, which she did -finely, parting one hawser in the undertaking. The -ships remained at this anchorage for the night. Before -sundown, most opportunely, the Lexington hove -in sight. The Southampton, more lucky than the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">213</span> -other sailing-vessels, had made the bay of Yedo, and -her true, old sailor-commander had run up it, as far -as the sailing-chart furnished him, laid down. The -Japanese on shore, who knew of the grounding of -the Macedonian, had gone up to where the Southampton -lay, and informed them of an American ship -with a white streak around her, being ashore, and -with a native chart, they pointed out the spot, where -she was. Captain Boyle despatched a launch with an -officer to her assistance, though the arrival of the -steamers, rendered it unnecessary.</p> - -<p>No sight could have exceeded in magnificence the -one presented by <i>Foogee Yama</i> at daylight, the next -morning. The clouds that had obscured it the evening -before had disappeared with the night. The air -was clear; the mountain seemed to have moved -nearer during darkness; its mantle of snow, divided -by rugged ravines, was more plain; and when the -moon was setting, and sharply defining one side with -its chill, cold rays, the sun, in all his state, came up -upon the other, and burnished with brilliant glory the -huge cone as it swelled up into the sky.</p> - -<p>We entered the bay of Yedo in the morning of the -13th of February, the Susquehanna towing the Vandalia; -the Powhatan, the Lexington; and the Mississippi, -having more towing-power from greater face of -wheel and immersion of paddle, the Macedonian. As -before, the batteries were ready, and guns shotted; -but instead of proceeding cautiously, as on the occa<span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">214</span>sion -of our former visit, the line of ships ran directly -past their forts and into their inner bay, not stopping -until reaching what had been called “American anchorage,” -on our first reconnoissance, about ten miles -above the port of Uraga, off the island of Natse. -The storeship Southampton had arrived there some -days before. We had scarcely anchored when some Japanese -officials came off to the flag-ship to welcome the -commodore and officers back to Japan. They verified -the intelligence we had received through the Russians -before leaving China—that of the death of the emperor -<i>Minamoto Jyekosi</i>, and the accession to the -throne of his son, with the title <i>Minamoto Yosisaki-sei-tai-seogun</i>. -It was very soon discovered from -them, to our surprise, that their government was -prepared to return an affirmative response to the demands -and requests contained in the letter of our -president. They informed the commodore that a -building had been erected, and preparations made to -receive him at Uraga, where they said was a high -functionary who would deliver to him the imperial -answer to the president’s letter, and begged that he -would move his squadron down to that place.</p> - -<p>The commodore, through his captain of the fleet, -peremptorily refused to accede to this request, on the -ground that the anchorage there was too much exposed -at that season of the year; and requested them -to inform their government that a suitable place for -his interviews with those appointed to confer with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">215</span> -him, must be selected in the vicinity of the then anchorage -of his squadron, otherwise, if he moved at -all, it would be to ascend the bay in the direction of -Yedo.</p> - -<p>Several days were allowed to elapse before the -Japanese consented to change the location for the -negotiations. The weather proved quite rough, but -the boats of the squadron, under that most admirable -officer and gentleman, Lieutenant W. L. Maury, continued -to make soundings and cross-bearings in the -direction of the city. On one day the weather proved -so rough, that the surveying-boats and their parties, -unable to get back to their own ships, remained with -the Southampton all night, which vessel had been -moved further out and higher up to triangulate -upon.</p> - -<p>The Mississippi was heeled with her guns, and her -shot and shell temporarily transferred to the Susquehanna, -to get at her leak. The broad-pennant was -transferred from the latter ship to the Powhatan; -state-department cherry cordial was freely set out for -visiting Japanese officers aboard of the flag-ship; and -the Vandalia, with Fleet-Captain Adams, was sent -down to Uraga to have an interview with the governor -of the place, and to tender a passage up to the -squadron, to the high functionary with the imperial -answer at that place. This was declined. They said -that thus far they had yielded to us, and it was but -right that we should do so in some things to them,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">216</span> -especially as they had already erected houses for reception -and negotiation at Uraga.</p> - -<p>It was well known that “nulla vestigia retrorsum,” -should be the motto in dealing with these people; -and the Japanese finding that the American “Mahomet -would not come to the mountain,” decided -that the “mountain should go to Mahomet,” and so -consented to the removal of their buildings higher up -the bay. It so happened, that just at the time that -the Vandalia appeared in sight on her return with -the declension of the Japanese, that the remainder of -the squadron had gotten underway to move ten or -twelve miles higher up to the more land-locked anchorage -off Kana Gawa, or river Kana, and the Japanese -believing there to be an immediate concert of -action, and our surveying-boats having approached -to within a very few miles of their great capital, very -readily acquiesced in our requests.</p> - -<p>On the 22d of February the different ships fired a -salute in honor of the day. The atmosphere was the -purest, and it was a fit presence in which to honor -the memory of George Washington—<i>Foogee-Yama</i>, -with its mantle of snow, towered upon the sight, its -ermine of the elements typifying the purity of his -character; and its great height, the eminence which -he attained in the eyes of the world.</p> - -<p>The spot selected for the erection of the buildings -for the conferences, was on the beach of the village -of Yokohama, or compost town, in the small bight of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">217</span> -Kawa-saki, and separated from the city of Kanagawa -by the little river Kana. This place was quite -sheltered by a projecting bluff below. The Japanese, -as could be seen through a glass at two and a half -miles distant, set to work in the erection of the buildings -on shore, with a Babel-like activity; and the -ships of the squadron moved in closer and formed a -crescent line in their anchorage, agreeably to buoys -previously established.</p> - -<p>While the buildings were being gotten ready, a -number of their fast-sailing, sharp, copperplated and -tassel-prowed boats, some quite ornamentally painted, -came off and moved round the ships, their inmates -not being allowed to come alongside by their government’s -cruisers, peering all they could. The sterns -of these boats are open, or indented to the distance -of a foot or so in their build, they believing, perhaps, -that the eddying water at this point serves to propel -the craft. The tall, square masts of their boats, when -not under sail, rests on a kind of gallows at the stern. -At one corner of the stern is an upright bamboo-pole -to which, like a tavern-keeper’s sign, is attached by -strips, a cotton or provincial flag; if it be a government -or customhouse boat, the flag is of white cotton -with a horizontal black stripe through the centre of -it. On the other corner is a similar arrangement, -from which is suspended the universal paper lantern, -differing from the Chinese in lifting up, instead of -opening out like an umbrella. The rowers of these<span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">218</span> -boats are athletic men, who appear very indifferent to -cold, and in the chilliest weather their cotton garments -are most epigrammatic in character.</p> - -<p>The Japanese officials, or gentlemen, who came off -to the ships were politely received and kindly entertained, -at which they seemed gratified, and, after the -manner of their land, indicated their appreciation by -bringing from time to time little presents of lacquered-ware, -&c. I don’t remember to have seen anything -else but the most quiet and gentle manner in any of -these visiters, except in the case of an impertinent -little officer of artillery, who it would have been as -well to have shown the gangway. This fussy little -animal, who rejoiced in a flaming pair of big brocade -breeches, being a consumptive, according to the -Æsculapian theory of his country, left all “the hair -on the top of his head,” which according to our theory -is the “place where hair ought to be.” He -had, however, the cheroot-cigar-looking tuft of hair -laying horizontal, and end pointing forward. This -fussy little person pryed into everything about the -ship with rude curiosity. He came and went from -the cabin without decorum, and examined huffily officers’ -state-rooms, without solicitation. The only point -of interest in the diminutive animal was, that he appeared -to understand quite well, how a howitzer in -battery should be worked.</p> - -<p>A dinner was given on the Susquehanna, by her -commander, to Yezimon, governor of the province of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">219</span> -Uraga, and a suite of ten others, among whom was -the little peripatetic consumptive of the artillery. The -Japanese being accustomed to the use of the chop-sticks -at their meals—which are not of ivory as the -Chinese, but lacquered black—were a little awkward -at first in the use of the Christian assistants of knife -and fork, but it did not take them long to acquire the -requisite facility, when they made up for lost time. -The cherry cordial, of which they are very fond, did -not go untasted, and champaigne was by no means -neglected by them. Accustomed to the small saki-cup, -they admired the contents more than the size of our -glasses. When any health was proposed, the Japanese—as -if using the staghead-pattern cup dug up at -Pompeii—turned their goblets upside down on the -table, to show the absence of heel-taps.</p> - -<p>The health of their emperor was drank, for which -the governor, through his interpreter, returned thanks -and gave the health of the president of the United -States; and after his own health had been given, he -gave the health of the commodore (not present). -This was all very well apparently, but I shrewdly -suspect that for the hint, they were indebted to Mr. -A. L. C. Portman, who was present and interpreted -from the Dutch, in which they preferred conversing -at all times: he is too conversant with the proper -etiquette of such occasions, to let this surmise go unindulged -in. They remained at the table some two -hours, during which time one of their number present,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">220</span> -“by request,” sang a Japanese song—if a kind of a -cross between the half wail, half-vocal screech of the -Chinese, a boy dragging a stick over the palings after -him, and a severe asthma, may be called a song. In -return one of the lieutenants of the ship present, sang -“Ginger Blue.” “Ginger Blue” sang in the hermetic -empire! What impertinence, O Jonathan! to -indulge in such refrains before the potentate presence -that once required knocking of head from a Russian -count! Thy good friend the <i>London Times</i>, will -“condemn thee to everlasting redemption for this,” -and when it learns it, how many additional articles -will appear in its columns headed “<i>More American -Wit</i>.”</p> - -<p>Yezimon, on leaving the ship where he had been so -handsomely entertained, remarked that he hoped he -would have the opportunity of reciprocating the courtesies -which had been shown them, when the friendship -(treaty) had been made; they would then see -more of us, and we more of them and their towns. As -customary, they left a number of little presents, consisting -of confections in small wooden boxes, and -flowers, and little birds on miniature trees, made with -shells. Their specimens of spun-glass did not equal -in whiteness and fineness what we see at home.</p> - -<p>While at dinner, they laid aside their two swords. -I had a very good opportunity of examining them in -the cabin of the Mississippi. The Damascus may not -equal them; but they evinced much surprise when I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">221</span> -showed them the temper of this far-famed blade, by -an engraving, in which the point of one appeared so -bent as to be put through the guard. The Japanese -blade is of the most magnificent steel; it has the back -shaped like that of a razor, and the edge is equally -as sharp, and so highly polished that they look black -instead of bright, and the breath disappears from -their surface, as from the face of the finest mirror. -The hilts were without “basket” of any kind, and -about a foot in length, intended to be grasped, when -in use, with both hands. They were covered with the -skin of the shark, or the corrugated plaice, wrapped -in silk cord in diamond shapes, and ornamented with -amulets in the shape of small animals, made of gold, -boxwood, red coral, or bronze. The guard, which -was a circle of bronze, was decussated, and frequently -had an image of a fly entangled in a web. The blade -has little curve, and is contained in a scabbard of -wood finely lacquered, and ornamented with purple -cord.</p> - -<p>The Japanese interpreter present spoke English -tolerably; said he had learned it from an American -at Nangasaki, but took good care not to mention that -this American was one of the sailors whom the United -States ship Preble took from them in 1849, who had -been held by them in captivity. They were very -desirous of getting dictionaries and grammars in English. -They were offered a passage to the United -States in one of the steamers; they said “No; they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">222</span> -would come when they could build ships”—indicating -the three masts with their fingers, and the yards -by crossing them. Two of the party ascended as high -as the main-top.</p> - -<p>The houses on shore progressed, and were being -built without any palisade enclosure, as had been -agreed on. On the 4th of March we had a slight fall -of snow, and the air was cool. The Japanese, with -the ships’ casks, brought off in their boats, from some -place of their river, water to fill our tanks. They -brought two kinds, and desired us to choose between -them. Everything in Japan having any connection -with strangers, is deemed a matter of such importance, -that the water-boats were always accompanied -by others with municipal officials. They were entertained -with cakes and tea and wine; and were -quite curious in examining each portion of the ship. -They did not understand why we should have brought -so many vessels. They told us that the Russian -squadron had been at Nangasaki, and left there on -the 12th of February. At that time they declared -their intention of making a treaty with the “American -States” alone. They would present their fans -on which they desired some sentiment to be written, -and many of them took away the marginal aphorisms -of a pocket-dictionary. Their own cards were presented, -written perpendicularly on strips of paper, -such as Mr. Olee-ke-chay-suo, or Mr. To-ta-ro-sa-koo-ka. -They were very polite in writing names in Jap<span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">223</span>anese -characters in our books. I requested one to -write a name on the title-page of a Book of Common -Prayer, which happened to have a steel engraving of -the cross upon it. He had dipped his camel’s-hair -pencil into his portable inkstand, passed the point -through his lips, and was about to write when his -eye rested upon the cross; he instantly shook his -head, threw the book upon the table, nor could he be -induced to touch it again.</p> - -<p>Some of the officers who visited the shore near the -buildings, brought flowered branches of the wild Camellia -Japonica, which is native here. Upon being -put on the table near a stove, they sent forth a pleasant -perfume. The leaf here is of the deepest and -most lovely green; but the flower, though as large, -had not the same delicacy of petal—perhaps owing -to exposure to the cold winds—as the same flower, -after hot-house nurture, in the United States.</p> - -<p>On the 6th of March a mariner died on the Mississippi -of an affection of the brain. The sloop-of-war -Saratoga, after a boisterous passage from Shanghae, -and being blown off from the mouth of the bay of -Yedo, arrived and anchored in the line. This dropping -in of the ships and the subsequent arrival of another, -the Japanese did not understand, and perhaps -thought with Macbeth:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">“Will the line stretch out to the crack o’doom.”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>The 8th of March had been selected for the landing -of the commodore to meet the Japanese commis<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">224</span>sioners -at Yokohama, but there was very little of the -excitement or interest felt in this landing, that attached -to the first, in July preceding, except on the -part of those from the ships, that had not been to -Japan on the previous occasion. Then there was -some doubt and uncertainty; the Japanese might -or might not attempt the Golownin game on us; -they say now, they were prepared for us then as -enemies, they now receive us as friends: besides this -we had now taken exactly the measurement of their -foot, and our force was treble as great.</p> - -<p>The following memorandum order was issued:—</p> - -<div class="less"> - -<p>On the first landing of the commodore to meet the Japanese commissioners, -he will be escorted by all the marines of the squadron, -who can be spared from duty.</p> - -<p>Major Zeilin will make the necessary arrangement.</p> - -<p>The bands of music from the Powhatan, Susquehanna, and Mississippi, -will be in attendance.</p> - -<p><i>Four</i> boats will be sent from each of the steamers and the Macedonian, -carrying forty seamen in addition to the boats’ crews, and their -proportion of marines and musicians.</p> - -<p><i>Three</i> boats from the Vandalia, to carry thirty men as above.</p> - -<p><i>One</i> boat from each of the storeships to assist in carrying the -marines, &c., on shore.</p> - -<p>Half of the captains to remain on aboard. Those who land will -leave the first lieutenant in charge of the ship. There will be subsequent -opportunities for all to land who wish it.</p> - -<p><i>Three</i> officers from each ship can join the escort.</p> - -<p>The officers to be in undress-uniform, frock-coats, cap, swords, -epaulets, and pistol.</p> - -<p>The men armed with musket, sword, and pistol, and dressed in -blue jackets and trowsers, and white frocks.</p> - -<p>The musicians armed with sword and pistol, and all to be provided -with musket or pistol cartridge-boxes.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">225</span></p> - -<div class="less"> - -<p>All boat-guns to be mounted and ammunition in boats.</p> - -<p>A list of the officers, who are to land, is to be furnished to the -captain of the fleet, by 10 A. M., on Monday 6th inst.</p> - -<p>Senior officer landing to take command and confer with captain of -the fleet.</p> - -<p>An officer to be in charge of the men from each ship, and one in -charge of each boat. These officers are not to leave the boats, nor -quit their divisions of men.</p> - -<p>If the boats are likely to be overcrowded, the numbers of the crew -may be reduced.</p></div> - -<p>About 11 o’clock in the morning of the 8th, preparation -being complete, twenty-nine boats of the different -ships, with officers and crews armed and equipped -agreeably to the order, were formed in a line -abreast according to rank of commanders, and pulled -ashore, presenting a beautiful sight. The number -landing, including officers, was about five hundred. -The commodore not long after, left the flag-ship in a -white barge, under a minister’s salute of seventeen -great guns from the Macedonian, he going ashore in -the capacity of “Special Ambassador.” On reaching -the beach, as before, he was received by his officers, -and with American national airs from the bands. The -column of escort was then formed, and all marched -to the reception-house—a short distance. A large -field around the buildings had been screened off with -striped cotton cloth, of black and white, while the -common people of the village were kept back by -ropes, extending from a growth of fine trees to the -water’s edge. A Japanese guard of honor with lances, -were drawn up on the right in rear of our line of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">226</span> -marines and sailors, and a cordon of the sharp government -boats lined the beach to the left.</p> - -<p>The high officers, who had been appointed to treat -with Commodore Perry, were:</p> - -<p>Hayashi Daigaku, no-kami; chief commissioner to -form the treaty, and member of council.</p> - -<p>Ido, Prince of Tsu-Sima, second commissioner.</p> - -<p>Izawa, Prince of Mima Saki, third commissioner.</p> - -<p>Tsudzuki Suruga, no-kami, Prince of Suruga, fourth -commissioner.</p> - -<p>Udono, Mimbu Sheyoyu, member of board of revenue, -fifth commissioner.</p> - -<p>Takenoüchi Shitaro, member of board of revenue, -sixth commissioner.</p> - -<p>Matsusaki Michitaro, seventh commissioner.</p> - -<p>The chief Japanese interpreter was Moriyama -Yenoske, and Hori Tatsnoske, and Namura Gohachiro, -were two other interpreters. “No-kami” means -a very learned man; one into whose head no more -information can be gotten.</p> - -<p>The first, second, third, fifth, and seventh commissioners -acted.</p> - -<p>On entering the hall, the commodore was received -by the five commissioners. The party being seated, -the flag of Japan was run up on board the Powhatan, -and saluted with twenty-one guns from the launches, -after which another salute of seventeen guns was -given to the Japanese high commissioners, which the -Japanese say, they took as a great compliment.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">227</span></p> - -<p>The room of reception and audience was in a white -pine-building, unpainted. You entered by a flight of -three steps. On either side the room was lighted -through white oiled paper in the place of glass, -placed in frames resembling sash-work. The extreme -end of the room was concealed by a large blue flag, -having in its centre in white, the Japanese coat-of-arms, -composed of three quarter-moons, whose horns unite -so as to form a circle, around which at intervals, was -entwined a small wreath. The walls of the entrance -were covered with paper screens, having on them -the Japanese deified or sacred bird, the crane, perched -on leafless trees. The floor was covered with mats, -or rather straw-cushions, they being some three -inches thick, bound on the edges, and very springy, -when walked on. Along the entire length of the room, -were placed low benches for seats, in front of which -nearly as low, were narrow tables covered with red -cotton cloth. The temperature of the room was -regulated by charcoal in full heat, placed in copper-pans -as “braziers,” resting in lacquered stands with -gilt and ornamental legs, distributed along the centre -of the floor. The company being seated—the Americans -on the left and the Japanese functionaries on -the right, the Japanese interpreter received a message -from his prince, with his nose about two inches -from the matting, and then dragging or sliding himself -<i>à la Turk</i> by the use of his arms, to where the commodore -was seated, told Mr. Portman, his clerk, in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">228</span> -Dutch, to say to the commodore, that the prince was -glad to see him, and hoped his health was better. -This civility was returned in like manner. They then -went to business: they desired to know what number -of persons the commodore wished to have retire with -him in the conference: commodore said, he wished a -room for five, and named the captain of the fleet, Mr. -S. W. Williams of Canton, author of the “Middle -kingdom,” his son—his secretary, and Mr. Portman, -who interpreted in Dutch. They retired into -another room in the rear, whose entrance was concealed -by a purple flag. The interview lasted some -three hours, during which time the following answer -to the president’s letter was received:—</p> - -<div class="less"> - -<p>The return of your Excellency as Ambassador from the United -States to this Empire, has been expected, according to the letter of -his Majesty the President; which letter your excellency delivered -last year to his Majesty the Emperor of Japan. It is quite impossible -to give satisfactory answers at once to all the proposals of your -government, since those points are most positively forbidden by the -laws of our imperial house; but for us to continue bigotedly attached -to the ancient laws, seems to misunderstand the spirit of the -age, and we wish rather to conform to what necessity requires.</p> - -<p>At the visit of your excellency last year, his Majesty, the former -Emperor, was sick, and is now dead. Since his Majesty, the present -Emperor, has ascended the throne, the many occupations demanding -his care, in consequence thereof are not yet finished, and there is no -time to settle other business thoroughly; moreover, his Majesty the -new Emperor, at his accession to the throne promises to the Princes -and high officers of the Empire to observe the laws. It is therefore -evident, that he can not now bring about any alteration in the ancient -laws.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">229</span></p> - -<div class="less"> - -<p>Last Autumn at the departure of the Dutch ship, the superintendent -of the Dutch trade in Japan, was requested to inform your government -of this event, and a reply in writing has been received.</p> - -<p>At Nangasaki, the Russian Ambassador recently arrived to communicate -a wish of his government; he has since left that place, because -no answer would be given to any nation that might communicate -similar wishes.</p> - -<p>However, we admit the urgency, and shall entirely comply with the -proposals of your government, concerning, wood, water, provisions, -and the saving of ships and their crews in distress. After being informed, -which harbor your Excellency has selected, that harbor shall -be prepared, and this preparation, it is estimated, will take about five -years. Meanwhile a commencement can be made with the coal at -Nangasaki by the beginning of the next Japanese year [10th of February, -1855].</p> - -<p>Having no precedent with respect to coal, we request your Excellency -to furnish us with an estimate, and upon due consideration this -will be complied with, if not in opposition to our laws. What do -you understand by provisions? and how much coal?</p> - -<p>Finally, anything ships may be in want of, that can be furnished -from the productions of this Empire shall be supplied; the prices of -merchandise and articles of barter to be fixed by Kuro-kawa Kahei, -and Moriyama Yenoske. After settling the point before mentioned, -the treaty can be concluded, and signed at the next interview.</p> - -<p>Seal attached by order of the Imperial Commissioners.</p> - -<p class="psig"> -(L. S.) <span class="smcap gap4">Moriyama Yenoske</span>.</p> - -<p>Kayei, 7th year, 1st moon, 26th day.<br /> -<span class="gap2"> -[February 23d, 1854.]</span> -</p></div> - -<p>The commissioners expressed themselves prepared -to commence discussions upon the various points contained -in the letter from the president, presented -last year, and also to receive any further propositions -that the commodore might wish to make—that in -the determination of the emperor to make some<span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">230</span> -modification in their laws of seclusion, he relied upon -the friendly disposition of the Americans toward -Japan; and as such negotiations were entirely novel -to them, they would trust with confidence to the commodore’s -superior experience, to his generosity, and -his sense of justice.</p> - -<p>Commodore Perry was fully satisfied on all points -suggested by him, which were in accordance with -Mr. Webster’s letter of instructions to Commodore -Aulick, accompanying the first letter to the emperor. -A draft treaty, in English, Dutch, Chinese, and Japanese, -was put into the hands of the Japanese commissioners, -who said that it would receive due consideration; -but the old emperor had died since Commodore -Perry was there last year, and his successor -was a young man, who would require to consult his -council before coming to a determination, and the -commodore was reminded that the Japanese did not -act with the same rapidity as Americans did.</p> - -<p>After these preliminaries had been gotten through, -the commodore made known to the commissioners, -that a man had been dead on the Mississippi for two -days, and he desired to know, whether he could not -bury him on an island lower down the bay, which we -had already surveyed, and called after the great -statesman, “Webster Island.” They objected strongly -to this, and said, if we would deliver the body to -them at Uraga, some twenty-six miles below, that they -would have it safely conveyed to Nangasaki on the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">231</span> -island of Kiusu, a distance of five hundred miles, -and there inter it in the burying-ground, which they -have allowed the Dutch. The commodore would not -consent to this, when they agreed to permit the burial -on shore just abreast of our anchorage. They said, -they would have the spot fenced in; most probably because -hereafter it would be tabooed ground with them.</p> - -<p>When the commissioners and commodore retired, -the officers of the escort, who remained, were treated -with tea and confections. After these thin-cooked -meats, some bearing great favor to fried snakes, cut -in slips so thin that the hinges of one’s jaw would -become tired, long before his appetite became satisfied, -were placed before them on lacquered plates. -This repast produced much disappointment with the -officers; they had paid two official visits to the prince-regent -of Loo-Choo island—a dependency of Japan, -and on one occasion were entertained by him with as -many as thirteen different soups at one feast, and -arguing from “man to master,” they anticipated -twenty-six different kinds of soups, when they got their -knees under Japanese pine. To those who were sharp-set, -the entertainment of Timon of Athens could not -have been much less satisfactory.</p> - -<p>Equi-distant on the tables, were lacquered trays -supported with feet, on which were placed of the -same material, heavy ornamental silver “tea-pots,” -containing saki, while the tea was served in thin-lacquered -cups, resting—to keep the heat from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">232</span> -the hand—on circular pieces of bamboo, resembling -the dice-box of a backgammon-board. The Japan -lacquer—and this being a part of the “service” of -royalty, must have been a fair specimen of it, did not -strike me as being incomparably superior to that of -the Chinese, as I had supposed.</p> - -<p>When the repast was concluded some Japanese -amateur-artists from Yedo, who had come down from -the city in the suite of the commissioners, made crayon -sketches of many of the officers, and seemed to labor -under the impression, that the only thing necessary -to make a good American portrait was to draw a -large nose, and sketch the balance of the features -around it. Their essays at representing flowers—the -Japonica for instance, were much better.</p> - -<p>While on shore, I took the opportunity of making -a closer inspection of the Japanese troops, who were -standing in line in a neighboring field. They did not -present as good an appearance as when drawn up at -Gorihama, the year before. They did not seem as -athletic as the Tartar troops I saw at the fort back -of Canton, or at Shanghae; and it appears to me, -that even if they were armed with the percussion-musket, -or the modern Minie rifle, instead of the antiquated -matchlock, old Dutch muskets, &c., as they are, -still their unsoldierly costume, would prevent, that -freedom and quickness of movement, and celerity in -the use of offensive weapons, that now-a-days constitute -effective troops.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">233</span></p> - -<p>In my limited reconnoissance, I took occasion to -pull some of the family Camellia Japonicas, that -were growing wild. One of the two-sworded gentry -seeing me standing near the beach, with a bunch in -my hand, desired to know the name of the flower in -“American.” Upon being told he repeated the word -until he got our pronunciation quite accurately, and -then wrote it down in a small soft-paper book with a -camel’s hair pencil, they always going provided with -these, together with a small bronze ink-holder, and a -handle to contain the pencil, at a short distance not unlike -a small pipe, with the bowl downward. I retorted -his question and requested the name of the flower in -“Nip-pon,” as they called their country. He said, -“T’su-bi-ki.” The “illustrious stranger”—wearied -me more than himself with the number of his queries. -I had to catalogue nearly every article in my wardrobe -in English for him, which he invariably noted -down. Upon showing him my watch, he pronounced -the word “chronometer” quite plainly; and on espying -when the case was opened, my name engraved -on the back, he wanted to know what it was. -Touching myself I pronounced my name, which he -wrote down, but hardly succeeded in repeating. They -can not say “l,” but call it “r.” The word “glove,” -which they call “grove,” is too much for them.</p> - -<p>In the interview, the subject of supplying us with -coal was broached, which they gave a favorable -response to, and promised to have some specimen,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">234</span> -of what coal they had, ready for inspection in a short -time. This contrasted strongly with the dissimulation -practised by them during the stay of the -“Preble” at Nangasaki in 1849. Then, those Japanese -who came on board, affected the greatest -curiosity in looking at the coal in the armorer’s -forge; they were much surprised at the heated rocks, -and one of them asked permission to take ashore -a piece of the coal, which he carefully wrapped in -paper.</p> - -<p>The next day Japanese officials were aboard of the -Mississippi, and held interviews there with the captain -of the fleet, with regard to furnishing fresh provisions -to the ships.</p> - -<p>During the forenoon, the mayor of Uraga, and the -interpreter and other officials came aboard, and accompanied -the men sent to dig the grave for the -man who had died, to point out the spot on shore. -The burial, which took place some hours after, with -the consent of the authorities who were standing by, -and in the presence of thousands of the population, -accompanied with the religious service of Christians, -was an event of much significance, when the inscription -that was put by the Japanese over the massacred -Christians at Simabara is recollected:<span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">235</span> “So long as -the sun shall warm the earth, let no Christian be so -bold as to come to Japan; and let all know that the -king of Spain himself, or the Christian’s God, or the -great God of all, if he violates this command, shall -pay for it with his head.” The settled oppugnation -to Christianity, of more than two hundred years, was -broken through with this burial from an American -man-of-war.</p> - -<p>Not having been present at the interment, I am indebted, -for an account of it, to the chaplain of the -Mississippi—a man of great energy of character, -and who, in addition to his clerical duties on board -ship, occupied himself with literary labor, and with -an indomitable perseverance and love for scientific -discovery, during the whole cruise, at every hour -of the night, addressed himself to the task of observing -the various phases of what has been called the -zodiacal light; and to his midnight labor and zeal, -the astronomical world may yet be indebted for a -solution of the vexed question about this light.</p> - -<p>“Our preparations were for an interment exactly -after our usual method upon the occasion of the burial -of a marine. A great many of the officers would have -liked to have gone, and some applied for permission; -but it was thought best to give the occasion no unusual -eclat, while at the same time nothing was to be -omitted.</p> - -<p>“About three o’clock, after ‘all hands’ had been -called to ‘bury the dead,’ and the chaplain had read -from the gangway the customary passage of the -Scripture, we left the ship in two boats, with the -flags at half-mast; the first contained Captain Slack of -the marine corps, assistant-surgeon Lynah, and myself,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">236</span> -in uniform and gown; and the other boat having the -dead body, with a guard of honor, consisting of a corporal -and six marines. We landed at a spot designated—a -quarter of a mile south of the landing-place -of yesterday, and in front of a large village—Yokohama, -the whole shore being lined with villagers who -had come to gaze. The mayor of Uraga, interpreter, -&c., received us there. I had expected that on their -seeing me in my official costume, and first knowing -that there was a Christian minister on their shore -and among them, that there would be a recoil, and -that they would shrink from me as from something -poisonous. But there was no such thing. On the -contrary, they came up successively and gave me -their hand for a shake. (They have learned our salutation, -and seem to be fond of it). The interpreter, -pointing to my prayer-book, asked if it was for ceremonies -over the dead, and smiled as before, when I -told him that it was. The marines were formed in -line and received the body with presented arms, when -the procession was formed and moved on: marines -with reversed arms; fife and muffled-drum playing -the Dead March; the chaplain; coffin borne by four -marines; their captain, surgeon, hospital-steward, and -six or eight sailors. Our way lay through the village, -and the occasion seemed to excite quite a holy-day -among them; everybody, men, women, and children, -running and gaining good places for seeing, and -squatting down on the ground till we had passed,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">237</span> -when they would run and gain another place for observation -if they could. The street through which -we passed was, however, kept clear, and at intervals -I noticed new boards stuck up, with inscriptions, -probably to warn people from intruding on our way. -But the people, even women and children, showed no -fear nor any hesitation in coming near us, or in being -seen themselves; and some shops that we passed -were kept open as usual. I saw myself often pointed -out, being doubtless recognised by my gown and book -as the clergyman of the party, but it was without any -exhibition of displeasure on their countenance; but -as they would look at any other curiosity. I saw one -woman hold up her little child to see me, and the -thought passed through my mind that, if it should -live to maturity, it would probably see many wonderful -changes in Japan.</p> - -<p>“Our way led quite through the village, at the further -end of which, on a wooded hill at our left, was a -temple with two different flights of steps leading up -to it, and ornamented gateways below. Through -the further of these gateways, I now saw a Buddhist -priest in his officiating costume emerge, and perceived -that he took his way toward some fresh earth—the -grave, a little beyond.</p> - -<p>“They had selected for the interment a very pretty -spot about a hundred yards from the village, and -closely adjoining an old burying-ground of their own. -We found the Buddhist priest seated there, but he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">238</span> -attempted no interference with our religious ceremonies, -which I commenced (all uncovering), as we approached -the grave.</p> - -<p>“The scene, at this time, was an exceedingly interesting -one; even apart from its being the first breaking -through of the Japanese settled opposition to -Christianity. The hills here formed a semi-circular -sweep, and at one end of the semicircle we were -standing. On the opposite side, on the heights above, -was the Buddhist temple. The sides of these hills, and -the whole sweep of the crest were covered with -people, quiet, and attentive spectators of what was -going on.</p> - -<p>“Close to us stood the Japanese officials, just below -the grave. The marines in line on the other side, -and near them on a mat sat the old Buddhist priest, -with a little table before him, on which were a number -of papers, &c., with incense burning in their -midst. Everybody was quiet and attentive while we -went through our usual service for the solemn burial -of the dead. Then the marines fired three volleys -over the grave. As the first volley was given there -was a half shout on the hills around, as if giving -vent to deep observation and pent-up curiosity, the -number of which was computed by one of our officers -at two thousand.</p> - -<p>“While they were filling up the grave, I asked permission -to examine their burying-ground, which they -readily gave, the interpreter also going with me and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">239</span> -explaining the several parts. Against the side of the -hill is a range of sculptured stones, which he said -were their gods; some had bas-reliefs of figures like -human beings on them. Across the space were lines -of small head-stones—some of these also with human -figures sculptured in bas-relief on their front, others -with inscriptions. These were commemorative of -individuals buried below; and when I observed to -the interpreter that the space for each body was very -small, he replied that the dead in Japan were buried -in a <i>sitting posture</i>.</p> - -<p>“I then went down to the Buddhist priest, a venerable-looking -man of about seventy-five years of age, -who was very friendly and showed me his rosary, half -of the beads in which were glass, and half wood; also -his book.</p> - -<p>“The interpreter opened the papers and showed us -their contents, and stated that the Buddhist had come -there ‘as a compliment to Mr. Williams’ (Williams -having been the name of the deceased). On -the little table, in addition to the incense-box, and -some rolls of unknown material and paper, were also -a bowl of cooked rice, a covered vessel filled with -saki, and a small gong. The priest now commenced -his ceremonies, sometimes touching the gong, sometimes -stirring the saki; while he thumbed his beads, -and then muffling his hands in his robe and bowing -his head, he read some prayers in a low, unintelligi<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">240</span>ble -voice. His outer dress was a pouch of very rich -brocade silk covered with fanciful figures.</p> - -<p>“After putting head and foot boards with inscription -to the grave; and covering it in our usual manner, we -left the Buddhist priest still engaged at his ceremonies -and set out on our return, the crowds gathering -around as before, and all very civil and polite, so -with drum and fife playing we returned to our -boats.”</p> - -<p>Conferences were now held daily, and negotiations -progressed slowly, but harmoniously.</p> - -<p>It was agreed that everything official, that transpired -at these interviews, should be committed to -writing that nothing might be misunderstood, nor -retracted.</p> - -<p>On the days of assembling, an imperial barge with -a canopy and gaudy streamers, moving like the stately -boat of some Doge, towed by a number of boats, conveyed -the high commissioner and suite from Kanagawa -to the place of meeting.</p> - -<p>Among the presents intended for the emperor was -a small railroad-track, with locomotive-tender, car, -&c., and a magnetic telegraph, which were erected -and put in operation on shore.</p> - -<p>These excited a great deal of interest among the -Japanese, particularly the latter, when they were -made to comprehend its utility in the transmission of -intelligence. Communications were made in their -presence in the English, Japanese, and Dutch lan<span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">241</span>guages. -They were also delighted with the railroad, -when they saw the engine and car flying round the -track at the rate of twenty miles an hour, but thought -it would be impossible to construct them to advantage -in Japan owing to the very uneven surface of the -country.</p> - -<p>Nearly two centuries ago, the Jesuits in China seeing -how necessary the protection of the government -was for their propagandism, made a number of things -to amuse and excite the curiosity of the emperor -<i>Kang-hi</i>. One of their inventions resembled the -modern locomotive, though on the Ericsson plan; it -was made, like the locomotive presented to the emperor -of Japan, at Yokohama, to run in a circle also. -In the large old folio history of China, from the -French of Du Halde, printed in London one hundred -and nineteen years ago (a copy of which is in the -possession of John V. L. M’Mahon, Esq., of Baltimore), -I find the following:—</p> - -<p>“The Pneumatick Machines also, did not less excite -the Emperor’s curiosity:</p> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">242</span></p> -<p>“They caused a Waggon to be made of light Wood -about two Foot long: in the middle of it they placed -a Brazen Vessel full of <i>live</i> coals, and upon that an -Æolipile, the wind of which came down through a -little Pipe upon a sort of a wheel made like the sails -of a Wind mill; this little wheel turned another with -an Axle tree, and by that means set the Waggon in -Motion for two hours together. But lest room should -be wanting to proceed constantly forward it was contrived -to move circularly.”</p> - -<p>Negotiations having progressed harmoniously, on -the 13th of March launches were sent alongside of the -storeships, and the presents for the Japanese being -put in them, the captain of the Macedonian with a -suite of officers, pulled ashore, and delivered them -<i>pro forma</i> to the authorities. They were afterward -pleasantly entertained by them. The Japanese must -have formed a rather exaggerated opinion of the -quantity of the presents intended for them by the -Americans—judging from the size of the room set -apart for their reception. They were given to understand -that these were tokens of amity, not a tribute.</p> - -<p>The presents for the emperor consisted of, among -other things:—</p> - -<p>A railway with steam-engine; a magnetic telegraph; -a surf-boat; a life-boat; a printing-press; a -fine lorgnette; a set of Audubon’s American Ornithology, -splendidly bound; plates of American Indians; -maps of different states of America; agricultural -implements, with all the modern improvements; -a piece of cloth; a bale of cotton; a stove; rifles, -pistols, and swords; champagne, cordials, and American -whiskey.</p> - -<p>And for the empress (presuming there was one):—</p> - -<p>A telescope; a lorgnette in a gilded case; a lady’s -toilet-box, gilded; a scarlet velvet dress; a changeable -silk dress flowered; a splendid robe; Audubon’s<span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">243</span> -illustrated works; a handsome set of China; a mantelpiece -clock; a parlor stove; a box of fine wines; -a box of perfumery; a box of fancy soaps.</p> - -<p>Among the presents, perhaps the one most valued, -was a copy of Webster’s complete dictionary, to the -imperial interpreter. To the high officers were given -books, rifles, pistols, swords, wines, cloths, maps, -stoves, clocks, and cordials, the latter of which they -fully appreciated; and as regards clocks, when it was -proposed to bring an engineer from shipboard to set -them agoing, the Japanese said there was no occasion -for that, for they had clockmakers in Yedo who understood -them perfectly. They were curious to know, -however, if Ericsson’s caloric engine, of which they -had heard, had been successful. There were also -given them a quantity of Irish potatoes, and an hydraulic-ram.</p> - -<p>We had now been lying in their waters a month; -the necessity for the reference of many things to -Yedo, caused the negotiations to drag their weary -length along. Diplomatizing may have been all very -well for those engaged in it, and getting a munch of -something fresh the while on shore, but the enchantment -lent to those confined on board and compelled -to watch proceedings with a spy-glass, or take exercise -on a hurricane-deck, was very slight indeed. -The supply of eatables brought from China had disappeared; -ship’s rations were ubiquitous upon the -table; and the appetite of an American exceeding, or at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">244</span> -his ordinary meals consuming as much as four Japanese, -the scanty supply of watery vegetables, a few -pounds of fish, sweet potatoes, and chickens which -had attained their majority, and upon whose muscular -thighs neither the molars nor incisors of the most -assiduous masculine chewer could make any impression—which -negotiation obtained from shore—when -distributed by signal from a storeship among a whole -squadron, went but a little way. We were undergoing -all the annoyances of a state of siege, without -any of its excitements. And “Oh! it is sweet -for one’s country to die,”—but not of short commons.</p> - -<p>The Japanese said they had no objection to the officers -going ashore to walk about the towns of Yokohama -and Kanagawa, but trusted they would not for -the present go further; the people had not become -used to strangers, and their presence might produce -unnecessary excitement among them.</p> - -<p>The chaplain of the Susquehanna was ashore on the -14th, and took a long stroll, not getting aboard until -ten o’clock at night. Had he made the best of his -time he might have had a sight of the city of Yedo, -but he spent some two or three hours in going to and -fro in Kanagawa, and an adjoining place, which enabled -the wily Japanese authorities time to communicate -his whereabouts to the commodore, and to make -complaint of it. He visited the very populous city -of Kanagawa, and also Kasacca.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">245</span></p> - -<p>At a wave of the hand of the Japanese officials who -accompanied him, the crowds of people opened a clear -passage in the centre of the street for him. He entered -some of the houses, which he found primitive in -their furniture and arrangements, but, compared with -other oriental dwellings of the same class, neat, clean, -and comfortable. In some of them he observed clocks -of Japanese manufacture. He also visited several -temples, which though smaller than in China, have -more gilding on their walls, and ornaments on their -idols, and generally are in better order. The priests -as well as the people were distinguished for their -courtesy.</p> - -<p>The cities thus visited were not only very extensive -(estimated to be six miles long), but had wide, -well-formed streets. As he was returning, a Japanese -officer put into his hands an order from the commodore -for all officers to return on board, and shortly -afterward a courier, mounted on a splendid black -horse, delivered a similar despatch, and finding it was -understood and acted on, turned round and galloped -back again to report the approach of the American -officer, who concluded his journey by torch-light, and -found on his arrival that everything that had occurred -had been noted, even the number of buttons on his -coat being recorded. On his route he met the escort -and train of some high functionary, supposed to number -some two thousand. They were supposed to be -conveying to Yokohama the few presents which they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_246">246</span> -said the emperor could only now send, for want of -time to prepare others.</p> - -<p>The negotiations, which were interrupted by the -equinoctial gale, were resumed on the 17th of March. -The commodore wished them to give us three or four -ports; his squadron was a powerful one; but if he -carried back an unsatisfactory answer to his government -it would send another and a larger one for a -different purpose. The Japanese were willing to give -us one port then, and another in five years; they said -they could not grant a port in the island of Yezo—hitherto -called Matsmai—without consulting the -prince of that department. To this, it was replied, -“Give the port in the island of Niphon, and the -squadron would go to see the prince of Matsmai.”</p> - -<p>On the 19th of March the squadron was increased -by the arrival of the storeship Supply, from China. -She brought us the intelligence of a naval engagement -between the Russians and the Turks; but the -disappointment of many in not getting letters was -great, and they thought</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">Oh the troubles that do espan,</div> - <div class="verse">The man who <i>will go</i> to Japan!</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>The Japanese having offered the harbor of Simoda, -in the province of Idzoo, as one of the ports for -American ships to visit, the Vandalia and Southampton -were sent down to that place, to make a reconnoissance, -and to report upon its facilities of entrance, -and capacity. The weather was raw, rough, squally,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">247</span> -and rainy. Agreeably to instructions from the government, -received before leaving China—a wise thing, -as naval commanders are always very chary, and not -at all disposed to render any more facilities to the -foreign diplomatic agents of the country, than they -can help, on the 25th of the month, the steam-frigate -Susquehanna left Japan for Hong Kong, to convey -the new American commissioner to such of the Cinque -ports as he desired to visit.</p> - -<p>On the same day there was a landing, not for purposes -of negotiation, but for the reception of the -presents from the Japanese, which consisted of lacquered -cabinets, desks, some silks, bags of rice, &c., -not very numerous or at all comparable in use or -value to those given them. On this occasion there -was quite a number of officials present, who were -compelled to manifest curiosity, when they saw the -beautiful little locomotive, with its highly-finished -rosewood car, complete in all the customary furniture, -driven by a charcoal-fire alone, at a rate of a mile in -three minutes, around a circular track of three hundred -feet. The Americans were entertained with -the contests in the ring of some Japanese athletes. -These men were of great stature and much obesity, -but their limbs displayed none of the angular muscularity, -of a Monsieur Paul, lifting his cannon or -resisting the draught of horses, or the pugilistic -activity of the American Tom Hyers and Sullivans, -who could no doubt whale them with little difficulty.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">248</span> -These men are in the pay of princes, and have such -designations as “Giant of the North,” &c. Their -hair is gathered upon their head, as others of their -country, though not shorn, perhaps to prevent their -Samsonian qualities being affected. In front of their -persons, which is otherwise unclothed, they wear a -scarf, with the insignia of the prince they serve upon it. -They commence with an exhibition of their strength, -such as throwing with each hand over the shoulder, -or lying on the ground, and somerseting with large -straw-bags containing two hundred pounds of rice -each. Then came the trial of the ring, not more -than eight feet in diameter, and made of rice straw. -Before commencing the combatants squatted and -rubbed their knees, as if to assure themselves of -their strength, and then rubbed a little dust under -each arm, something like an infuriated cow, when -she throws it on her back, and then with a grunt -they closed, and though the claret was occasionally -drawn, and great welts were raised upon the shoulders, -yet there did not appear much of that belicosity, -descriptions of which have graced some of the columns -of the papers of our own country, since the infusion -into it of Bill Poole blackguardism. The -effort was rather to get one another out of the ring, -when the effort ends. After being sufficiently amused -at this <i>intellectual</i> display, the commodore and party -returned aboard.</p> - -<p>Nearly every day, some of the Japanese officials<span class="pagenum" id="Page_249">249</span> -came off to the flag-ship to arrange in the preparation -of the treaty, that matters might be facilitated -during the formal interviews held ashore. Chief at -such times, on their part, was Moriyama Yenoske, the -imperial interpreter in the Dutch language; indeed -he was <i>the</i> man of the treaty, so far as the Japanese -were concerned; to his friendly regard to the Americans, -his clear appreciation of propositions, and the -accurate conveyance of them to the minds of the -commissioners by his translations, we are much indebted.</p> - -<p>On the 27th an entertainment was given to the -commissioners on board of the flag-ship. It was the -first time that the Japanese imperial flag floated from -the mast-heads of foreign men-of-war. The guests came -off about three o’clock in the afternoon. On passing -the Mississippi they received a salute of seventeen -great guns. They first went aboard of the Macedonian, -when her crew were beat to general quarters, and the -broadside-guns of the ship, together with her large -“pivots,” exercised before them. From here they -went to the flag-ship Powhatan, but some of them, -who had changed from their steady-moving boats, by -invitation, to our buoyant and lively ones, did not -have their appetites for the repast that awaited them, -improved by the qualmy motion. On the Powhatan -they were shown the exercise and rapid firing of the -twelve-pounder howitzers, in which they appeared to -take much interest. They then partook of a dinner,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_250">250</span> -which had been spread for them: the commissioners -dining with the commodore, and the rest of the -company from tables spread under the awnings of the -quarter-deck. The Japanese did full justice to the -dishes before them, and when partaken to satiety, -they aided the disappearance of the food, after the -manner of their country, by wrapping up and taking -away an occasional pie or sweetmeat of which they -are very fond. Music from the band regaled the occasion, -and as the hermetics drained their draughts -of champagne and cordial down, they became very -social, if not confidential, and proposed frequent sentiments -of friendship between “Nipong” and America. -With such a people, John Barleycorn is very potent: -particularly in treaty-making. At night on the forecastle -the Japanese witnessed a capital Ethiopic performance, -at which they appeared much amused. -Indeed their stoic gravity had pretty well left them -before this hour, and one of them, during the evening, -indulged in a polka under the hurricane-deck with a -very intelligent midshipman. They left at an early -hour for the shore, and after a salute from the Saratoga, -their flag was hauled down. One of the commissioners -had a fancy for a large cake, which was -given him by the commodore, together with some -cordial, to be sent ashore the next day. During the -night one of the orderlies at the cabin-door stole and -made away with the cake. Not wishing to give the -Japanese the bad idea of our men, that the mention<span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">251</span> -of this theft might produce, the diplomacy was resorted -to of telling the Japanese, when presenting -the wine, that it was an American custom to present -cake in the evening; by which time, another one had -been made, and was sent ashore.</p> - -<p>On the last day of March, the ships having gotten -back from Simoda, and made their report as to that -harbor, the commodore had his last official interview -ashore, with the commissioners, at Yokahama, Kanagawa, -when after much difficulty, and talking, and -debate as to the wording, the following treaty was -signed:—</p> - -<div class="less"> - -<p class="hang"> -The United States of America and the Empire of Japan, desiring to -establish firm, lasting, and sincere friendship between the two nations -have resolved to fix, in a manner clear and positive, by means -of a treaty or general convention of peace and amity, the rules -which shall in future be mutually observed in the intercourse of -their respective countries, for which most desirable object the -President of the United States has conferred full powers on his -commissioner, Matthew Calbraith Perry, special ambassador of the -United States to Japan, and the august sovereign of Japan has -given similar full powers to his commissioners, Hayashi, Daigaku-nokami, -Ido, prince of Tsus-Sima, Izawa, prince of Mimasaki, -and Udono, member of the board of revenue. And the said -commissioners, after having exchanged their said full powers, -and duly considered the premises, have agreed to the following -articles:</p> - -<p class="center">ARTICLE I.</p> - -<p>There shall be a perfect, permanent, and universal peace and a -sincere and cordial amity between the United States of America on -the one part, and the empire of Japan on the other part, and between -their people respectively, without exceptions of persons or places.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">252</span></p> - - -<p class="center">ARTICLE II.</p> - -<p>The port of Simoda, in the principality of Idzu, and the port of -Hakodade, in the principality of Matsmai, are granted by the Japanese -as ports for the reception of American ships, where they can -be supplied with wood, water, provisions, coal, and other articles their -necessities may require, as far as the Japanese have them. The time -for opening the first-named port is immediately on signing this treaty; -the last-named port to be immediately after the same day in the -ensuing Japanese year. [<i>Note.</i>—A tariff of prices shall be given by -the Japanese officers of the things which they can furnish, payment -for which shall be made in gold and silver coin.]</p> - - -<p class="center">ARTICLE III.</p> - -<p>Whenever ships of the United States are thrown or wrecked on -the coast of Japan, the Japanese vessels will assist them, and carry -their crews to Simoda, or Hakodade, and hand them over to their -countrymen appointed to receive them; whatever articles the shipwrecked -men may have preserved shall likewise be restored, and the -expenses incurred in the rescue and support of Americans and Japanese -who may thus be thrown upon the shores of either nation are not -to be refunded.</p> - - -<p class="center">ARTICLE IV.</p> - -<p>Those shipwrecked persons and other citizens of the United States -shall be free as in other countries, and not subject to confinement, but -shall be amenable to just laws.</p> - - -<p class="center">ARTICLE V.</p> - -<p>Shipwrecked men and other citizens of the United States, temporarily -living at Simoda and Hakodade, shall not be subject to such -restrictions and confinement as the Dutch and Chinese are at Nagasaki, -but shall be free at Simoda to go where they please within the -limits of seven Japanese miles (or <i>ri</i>) from a small island in the harbor -of Simoda, marked on the accompanying chart hereto appended; -and shall in like manner be free to go where they please at Hakodade, -within limits to be defined after the visit of the United States squadron -to that place.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">253</span></p> - -<p class="center">ARTICLE VI.</p> - -<p>If there be any other sort of goods wanted, or any business which -shall require to be arranged, there shall be careful deliberation between -the parties in order to settle such matters.</p> - - -<p class="center">ARTICLE VII.</p> - -<p>It is agreed that ships of the United States resorting to the ports -open to them shall be permitted to exchange gold and silver coin and -articles of goods for other articles of goods, under such regulations -as shall be temporarily established by the Japanese government for -that purpose. It is stipulated, however, that the ships of the United -States shall not be permitted to carry away whatever articles they -are unwilling to exchange.</p> - - -<p class="center">ARTICLE VIII.</p> - -<p>Wood, water, provisions, coal, and goods required, shall only be -procured through the agency of Japanese officers appointed for that -purpose, and in no other manner.</p> - - -<p class="center">ARTICLE IX.</p> - -<p>It is agreed that if at any future day the government of Japan -shall grant to any other nation or nations, privileges and advantages -which are not herein granted to the United States and the citizens -thereof, these same privileges and advantages shall be granted likewise -to the United States and to the citizens thereof, without any consultation -or delay.</p> - - -<p class="center">ARTICLE X.</p> - -<p>Ships of the United States shall be permitted to resort to no other -ports in Japan but Simoda and Hakodade, unless in distress or forced -by stress of weather.</p> - - -<p class="center">ARTICLE XI.</p> - -<p>There shall be appointed by the government of the United States -consuls or agents to reside in Simoda, at any time after the expiration -of eighteen months from the date of the signing of this treaty; -provided that either of the two governments deem such arrangement -necessary.</p> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">254</span></p> - -<p class="center">ARTICLE XII.</p> - -<p>The present convention having been concluded and duly signed, -shall be obligatory and faithfully observed by the United States of -America and Japan, and by the citizens and subjects of each respective -power; and it is to be ratified and approved by the President of -the United States, by and with the advice and consent of the Senate -thereof, and by the august sovereign of Japan, and the ratification -shall be exchanged within eighteen months from the date of the -signature thereof, or sooner if practicable.</p> - -<p>In faith whereof, we, the respective plenipotentiaries of the United -States of America and the empire of Japan aforesaid, have signed -and sealed these presents.</p> - -<p>Done at Kanagawa this thirty-first day of March, in the year of -our Lord Jesus Christ one thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, and -of Kayei, the seventh year, third month, and third day.</p> - -<p class="psig"> -M. C. PERRY.</p></div> - -<p>“The respective plenipotentiaries” did not sign.</p> - -<p>The night before the signing of the treaty, the officials -were aboard of the flag-ship until a very late -hour, composing with great care the various prepared -copies of the treaty, as they had been enrolled. In -the Japanese copy they discovered an error in the -formation of one character, which they desired to be -altered to prevent as they said, any misconstruction -hereafter. They did not understand the “ratification” -of treaties: with them an obligation once -signed, was full and complete, and they did not see -any necessity for any supplementary action by the -contracting parties.</p> - -<p>After the signing of the treaty the commodore intimated -his purpose of going up to Yedo and saluting -the emperor; if he could not reach the city in his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">255</span> -steamers, he could in the ship’s boats. To this they -objected. They were told if they had objections, -they should have included them in the treaty.</p> - -<p>This treaty, it will be seen, is not one of commerce, -but of friendship or amity. It is said that -the Japanese had some objection to signing their copy -with the words “Lord Jesus Christ” in it. It was -understood, that Hakodade was not to be visited by -the squadron, until fifty days had elapsed from the -date of signing.</p> - -<p>The Japanese were desirous of knowing from our -fleet-captain, whether the English and the French were -coming up to Japan, when the American squadron -should have left: the answer was, we did not know.</p> - -<p>There was something rather mysterious about Yezimon, -the little deputy-governor of Uraga. At the -time of our first visit, he took quite a conspicuous part -in all the intercourse, but on our return, it appears, -he had to pale his ineffectual fire before greater luminaries. -Very little was seen of him, indeed, if he -was seen at all on our return. The great familiarity -and sociability that he had displayed when on board -of our ships had probably gotten him into trouble. -The officials declined saying anything about him; -when he was asked for, and one of the officers informed -them that he had a Colt’s revolver which he -desired to present to Yezimon before leaving, they -said they had rather that it should not be done, and -added, that they could not speak about him.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_256">256</span></p> - -<p>On the 4th of April, after an absence from the -United States of over four years, the sloop-of-war -Saratoga left for home. In her went as passenger -Commander H. A. Adams, captain of the fleet—bearing -to the United States, by way of the Sandwich -Islands and the Californian route, copies of the treaty -in English and Japanese, and three copies in Dutch -certified to by A. L. C. Portman, Esq., and Moriyama -Yenoske, intended to be the first intelligence home of -the completion of the treaty. There also went home -in her a number of invalid officers who had undergone -the enervation and emaciation produced by the heat -and diseases of an East India climate. As the Saratoga -passed out she fired her parting salute, and was -cheered by the remaining ships of the squadron, the -bands playing “Home, Sweet Home!” in a manner -that caused each heart to heave. Every one who -thought of the long while she had been out, wished -fair winds to fill her sails, and Heaven speed her!</p> - -<p>The interpreter, and others, continued their friendly -visits to the ships, wearing when the weather was -bad, a singular rain-cloak called <i>meno</i>, made up of a -number of tassels of a kind of mountain fern, pendent -from the junction of meshes knit from the same material, -and having outside a covering of green silk network. -They would tell us in answer to the question -“Could we now see the emperor?” “No; too young -man.” They had told us that it would require some -days before they could arrange a bazar at Simoda,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">257</span> -where we might be able to procure specimens of their -lacquer-ware, porcelain, &c.; and in the meantime -our surveying-boats, when the weather would permit, -were kept constantly going.</p> - -<p>The 10th of April, being the birthday of the commodore, -I suppose he wished to signalize it by a -nearer approach to the city of Yedo, and accordingly -early in the morning a signal was thrown out for the -squadron to get under way, which was done, the Mississippi -leading up the bay, and the Powhatan and -the sailing ships following, with the exception of the -Lexington, which got aground just as her anchor was -away. This movement being perceived from shore, -the Japanese interpreters Moriyama Yenoske, Hernyama, -Gohara, and Namura Gohachiro, third interpreter, -at once rowed off under much excitement. -The latter came aboard of the Mississippi, the others -went on board of the flag-ship; where they ascertained -the commodore’s intention of going higher up -the bay, Yenoske objected most strenuously, urging -that the lives of each of the commissioners, and himself, -were in danger for not preventing (?) it, or remonstrating -against it; or previously advising their -government; they said they could not tell but it was -not possible to calculate the consequences. In reply, -the commodore said that his instructions from the -president were to go up to Yedo, and that he would -have done so, but for the feelings of friendship that -he entertained for the commissioners who preferred<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">258</span> -Yokohama for holding the conferences. They gave it -to be understood that the anchoring of the ships off -Yedo, would at once require of them the performance -of the “Hari Kari,” or happy despatch—that they -would be necessitated to this, according to a custom -which it was no use to argue against, to save themselves -and those related to them from dishonor; and -that such was the case with each of the commissioners.</p> - -<p><i>Hari Kari</i>, meaning “happy despatch,” is the act -of disembowelling one’s self with a sword, among the -Japanese. The young man, of any family pretensions, -is early indoctrinated in the art of self-destruction. -He is also instructed as to the occasions and circumstances -when this form of suicide is appropriate for a -gentleman, either to preserve himself or those connected -with him from dishonor. It is given him -strictly in charge, to remember that the wearing of -the badge of his position—two swords—is also typical -of his courage; perhaps as Napoleon said, that -he who cares nothing for his own life is master of that -of others; and that one of these swords, like the dagger -of Brutus, is for himself, when his country shall -need his death. He desires that it shall be said of -him, what Malcolm says of Cawdor:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent10">“Nothing in his life</div> - <div class="verse">Became him like the leaving it: he died</div> - <div class="verse">As one that had been studied in his death,</div> - <div class="verse">To throw away the dearest thing he owed,</div> - <div class="verse">As ’twere a careless trifle.”</div> -</div></div></div> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_259">259</span></p> -<p>Or as Decitas said of Anthony:-</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent14">“He is dead,</div> - <div class="verse">By that self hand,</div> - <div class="verse">Which writ his honor in the acts it did.”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_259f.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">NEAR YEDO.</div> -</div> - -<p>The commodore promised that the two steamers -should only go up in sight of Yedo, and without dropping -anchor, return. This quieted their apprehensions -considerably. About twelve o’clock, when we -had gotten a distant view of the great city, the water -suddenly shoaled so as to prevent our further progress, -when the boats that had been sounding ahead -were recalled, the steamers put about, and the whole -squadron proceeded directly down the bay to the anchorage -off <i>Nati Sima</i>, or as called by us, <i>Webster</i> -island, with the exception of the Mississippi that was -sent to the assistance of the Lexington, but that ship -having kedged off, we towed her to where the remaining -ships had anchored.</p> - -<p>Poor Namura Gohachiro, the third interpreter, who -was aboard of us during the day’s movements, looked -the while like a man whose time had come. He evinced -no interest in anything that was going on around -him, and during the day did not look over the side. -He complained of sickness, and Jamaica ginger gave -him no relief; he put aside his two swords, and lay -on the cabin sofa; his great inquietude lasted until -we had dropped anchor off Webster island, when he -experienced the greatest relief, going over the side -into his boat, which we had towed during the day,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">260</span> -looking like one from around whose neck the halter -had been taken.</p> - -<p>The yearly number of those who now commit the -Hari Kari, or “happy despatch,” in Japan, is estimated -at four hundred.</p> - -<p>The principal cause of the alarm of the Japanese -officers, on the approach of the ships to Yedo, was in -some anticipated outbreak on the part of its rabble, -who must comprise a great number in a city of over -fourteen hundred thousand inhabitants. These lazzaroni -have more than once threatened the stability -of the government; a huge unmanageable mob threatening -destruction, and deaf to reason; a horrid hydra -easily moved, but controlled only with great power -and force. The effect upon such a population of the -novel sight of two large steamers off their city, who -in addition to other engines of destruction, were believed -to have on board steam-guns, can be easily -imagined, especially when the mob never expected to -see such a sight again. Then, too, they are more -eager after novelty because of having been kept in -ignorance by the stringent laws against foreigners; -and they have been taught that they are beneath -laws.</p> - -<p>Such is the intense curiosity of the Japanese character, -and the great rush to gratify it, that at one -time, before the signing of the treaty, there was as -many as seventy thousand people from all parts of -the country, congregated in Kanagawa and its im<span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">261</span>mediate -vicinity, eager to get a look at our ships, and -endeavoring to get aboard. To furnish a pretext for -their assemblage near the place of negotiations, many -resorted to the ruse of offering their services to the -authorities, in the event of the negotiations with the -Americans, taking a hostile turn. Many of the -princes of the empire, anxious to see the ships and -not being able to get permission or authority to do -so, resorted to the plan of getting on board by going -disguised in the suite of Moriyama Yenoske, the -chief interpreter. On one occasion—April 4th—a -number of Japanese gentlemen of rank, having obtained -permission to visit the ships, it was surmised, -and upon very good authority, that the young emperor -himself had been aboard. His features would probably -not be known to one of his subjects outside of -his immediate attendants or council. The boldness -and tact with which they manage <i>nayboen</i> matters -is remarkable. The interpreters were always very -cautious, and never committed themselves by giving -information. A great many of the better class Japanese, -who came aboard, were able to write, and sometimes -speak a little Dutch (Holland), and generally -expressed themselves with much correctness.</p> - -<p>The next morning, after anchoring off <i>Nati Sima</i>, -the Macedonian was despatched to the Bonin islands -with some agricultural implements, and to look after -some men, with orders to join us at Simoda.</p> - -<p>While our surveying boats were running their line<span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">262</span> -of soundings, and triangulating in the vicinity of the -anchorage, some of the officers, in other boats, paid -visits to Webster island, which afforded a fine opportunity -for exercise, besides being a very pretty -view. Before returning to the ships, we pulled into -a number of little inlets and small bays near by. -The hill-sides were well wooded, and the deep green -of the thorough cultivation on terraces and steppes -was delightful to the eye. In some obscure coves, -were built stone piers for landing, and a number of -junks had been beached, and their owners were -preparing them, or firing their bottoms, that the sea -slime might be removed and their speed increased. -In others, the fronts of large quarries of sandstone, -and what appeared to be fuller’s earth, approach the -edge of the water. The latter was cut away in -square blocks, leaving the face of the hills like the -smooth masonry of a curtain-wall and bastion.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 18th of April, the Vandalia -and Lexington having preceded us, the Powhatan -and Mississippi steamed slowly out of the bay -of Yedo, running a line of soundings from the ships -as we went, after passing Sagama cape, the two -ships stood over in the direction of Ohosima, that -the bearings of that island might be taken, and then -headed off southward and westward, leaving the bay -of Kawatsu on our right hand. The volcano on Ohorima -was not in a state of eruption, as when we -passed it three months before. We soon saw Cape<span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">263</span> -Idzoo, and by three o’clock were up with Rock island, -that marks the mouth, and ran into the harbor of Simoda. -This place from having been visited in May, -1849, by the English man-of-war Mariner, our own -sailing ships, which preceded us, were no novelty to -the people, but the approach of the Powhatan and -Mississippi running in a straight line through the narrow -entrance, filled the height on either side with a -throng, looking for the first time, and with wonder, -on steamships.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_264">264</span></p> - - - - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.</h2> - - -<p>Simoda—in Japanese “Lowerfield”—situated in -the principality of Idzoo, which occupies about the same -latitudinal, though not isothermal lines—as our state -of North Carolina, is a place containing a population -of twenty thousand. The streets are narrow, though -regularly laid out, and at their intersections have -gates, which may be easily closed in the event of any -<i>emeute</i>. At their points are also placed stone structures, -surmounted by little roofs protecting copies of -the laws and municipal regulations so conspicuously -posted, that all who run, may read. The houses, -which are usually and ornamentally stuccoed in light -blue and white diamond shapes, are nearly all of one -story with parapets, and without chimneys. Between -the parapets wires are stretched to prevent the bird, -which “by the hoarseness of its note doth indicate a -crow,” from alighting on the roofs. The Japanese -certainly can’t regard them as a bird of evil omen, -from the great numbers that fill their streets. Perhaps -they are kept from injury, for sanitary purposes, -like one more ungainly, found in our southern cities.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_265">265</span> -There are a number of temples in and near the place, -dedicated to different deities. Behind the town -stretches a lovely level valley for some miles, through -which flows a little stream—Simoda gawa, and surrounded -on either side by towering bluff-hills, that -make the resemblance very great to the scenery on -the Potomac, at Harper’s Ferry. From this stream, -junks and ships are supplied with fresh water, and -on its banks are built rice and grain mills, with undershot -wheels, to turn which, the water is diverted -from its course by artificial excavations. The amphitheatre -of high hills that surround the place in -other directions, is very thickly wooded, and presents -a green and lovely prospect from the water. The -town has about fifteen hundred houses, and it is wonderful -to see how many people a Japanese town will -hold.</p> - -<p>The harbor of Simoda, though of rather difficult -access at times to sailing vessels, and subject to quite -a heavy swell, when the wind blows from a southerly -direction, is quite a secure one, after getting in. The -entrance is narrow between high bluffs, but on passing -inside, the water spreads into a fan-shaped bay, with -a bight, on which the principal town of Simoda is -situated, on the left hand, which place is not visible -until reaching a central island. It is encompassed -on every hand by high hills, bleak and uninviting in -some patches, and others cultivated in terraced fields -of rice and wheat, or clothed in the deep verdure of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_266">266</span> -the pine and other trees. Across the bay of Simoda -about half a mile round a sweep of white level-shiny -beach, on which the waves sullenly chafe, is a little -fishing village, called Kakizaki, which also has its -temples. Here was a spring possessed of sulphurous -qualities; and on the beach the ship’s seines were -hauled with some success.</p> - -<p>Having to remain at Simoda some time, a party -under Lieutenant Maury was at once set at work to -make a survey of the harbor. The officers spent -their time ashore in strolls through the town, visits to -the temples, rambles into the country, occasionally -taking a gun, though there was very little to kill. -The people, when we landed, appeared glad to see -us, and were always inclined to be sociable, but for -the omnipresence of their police. They would gather -around and examine the cloth of our clothes with -much curiosity—particularly the old women—and -the designs on our buttons. The remarkable and unremitting -espionage of the Japanese is everywhere -shown. Should you give some peasant a button, even -while apparently out of sight of any one, it will be -most singular, if one of the officers does not return -it to you before or after you are on shipboard again. -At first our steps were dogged by the police wherever -we went. This did not require much effort in the town, -but when we struck into the country and climbed hills -with thick and sharp undergrowth, these officers not -being as well habited as ourselves to withstand brier<span class="pagenum" id="Page_267">267</span> -and thorn, their scratched legs usually paid the penalty. -Besides this, their lazy habits had made them -very indifferent pedestrians. In a walk of any length -they generally broke down; they would rub their -legs and beg us to return, but as we were not aware -of having solicited the pleasure of their company, -we declined compliance with their requests. The -commodore complained to the acting chief magistrate, -Kimakawa Kahei, of this practice of spying upon -the movements of his officers, and said, that if it -were not stopped, he should recommend them each to -take a stick with them, and stop it. They contended, -that it was a precaution for our protection, the people -not yet being accustomed to the sight of us. They -were answered, that we felt ourselves quite competent -for our own protection.</p> - -<p>After this, these gentry, if they attempted to follow, -were driven back at once, and if they spied -upon our movements at all, it was at such a distance, -that their presence was not perceived by us. In a -short time, the officers moved as freely in the area -of country granted by the treaty—a radius of about -sixteen English miles, as if they were in the United -States. The chief objects of interest ashore to visit, -are the Sintoo, Buddhist temples, and some smaller -ones, dedicated to the tutelar deities of the soldiers, -and the marines. The Japanese display great rural -taste always in their locations, selecting the most picturesque, -and at times, the most elevated spots for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_268">268</span> -their erection. Attached to these temples are usually -<i>kungwas</i>, or places, where the weary traveller -may rest for the night, and get some tea and eatables -from the attendant priests. A Sintoo temple just at -the end of the principal street from the landing at -Simoda, was the chief place for the holding of official -interviews, and subsequently for bazars. It stood in -the midst of a cemetery overhung by large trees, and -steep boulders of granite. The spacious and level -yard in front, was divided with stone crossings -smoothly cut, and in it stood alone, a tower of cyclopean -masonry, in which was hung one of their sweet-toned -bells. Their manner of striking, which is by -a piece of green wood swung horizontally on the outside -of the bell, gives a delightful softness to the -sound, while the proximity to the earth increases the -distance at which it may be heard. The carving and -frieze work about the columns at the entrance to this -temple are as elaborate and fantastic as can be imagined, -while the little hydras and animal images -perched upon the eaves and roof, are as numerous as -on a Chinese Joss house. The interior is very plain, -and the Sintooist worships no idol. Living here was a -priest named Dosangee—his head entirely shorn. He -was quite polite to us, and in return used to expect us -to give him the pronunciation of some words in English, -which he was endeavoring to learn by the aid -of an English and Dutch dictionary, which he had. -He accompanied me through the temple.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_269">269</span></p> - -<p>In one part of the temple, the commodore, from the -initials “M. C. P.” on some boxes there seen, seemed -to have had a room set apart. The altar, in the place -of worship was very plain, and had incense burning -on it. Its only ornaments consisted of bronze castings -representing their sacred crane on the back of a -tortoise, and a small gilded elephant. There, of -course, was the invariable accompaniment of Sintoo -worship—a small mirror—an emblem of the soul’s perfect -purity; or, according to some, as plainly as the -votary sees his own features in that mirror, so plainly -do the mediatory spirits to whom he prays, see his -spiritual and temporal wants. Such a style of worship -would scarcely answer for the belles of our land. -As the devotee enters one of these temples he first -drops a few “cash” (about the fifteenth of a cent) -into a carefully-secured box at the door, then by -shaking a lot of sleigh-looking bells hanging from a -beam, attracts to his prayers the attention of his -mediatory spirits, who only number some three thousand—these -are the <i>kami</i>, confreres of the spiritual -emperor or mikado, and analogous to the saints of the -catholics.</p> - -<p>The Sintoo mythology also comprehends a god of -war. On entering the grounds where one of these -temples were located, we passed through a military -barrack, where were a number of small stallions tethered -from either cheek, wrong end foremost in their -stalls, who grew quite indignant in their cavortings<span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">270</span> -at our presence. On our approach they turned out -their guard—three or four stupid-looking soldiers, -with tin-basin looking hats, and the calves of their legs -swathed in blue cotton cloth, upholding the insignia -of rank of their chief, which were cruciform lances in -coverings of shark-skin. In the building, we saw on -the walls, offerings of swords and bows, from those -who had deemed themselves miraculously preserved -in battle.</p> - -<p>In the Mariners’ temple we saw suspended from boards -on the walls small <i>queues</i> of the Japanese seamen, who -had undergone the imminent peril of shipwreck, together -with details of the particular storm, pictures -of foundering junks, and the names of those who escaped. -The parting with this little pig-tail of hair, -the Japanese sailor thinks is one of the greatest sacrifices -that he can make to his patron divinity. The -approach to this place was over a fine balustraded -bridge, and under a noble well-planted avenue of the -yew-pine tree. Another <i>yasiro</i>, on a mountain-side, is -reached by a direct and continuous flight of over a -hundred steps. Over at <i>Kakisaki</i>, in one of the temples, -is an allegorical painting of some size, the subject -of which is very nearly an embodiment of “Pilgrim’s -Progress,” and the hero is as defiant as Saint -George with the Dragon. The plan of the picture is -a birds’-eye view. A horrid ogre or devil dwells deep -in a cavernous recess or hell, and his daily food is -women, many of whom are confined in the gloomy<span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">271</span> -precincts of his prison. A young prince prays for -power to rescue them, which is granted, and he is -provided with a potent potion. Disguised as a pedlar -he crosses dangerous chasms and descends steep -cliffs; at last, arriving at the door of the devil’s -abode, he gains admittance, and gives the devil the -potion, which he drinks and becomes drunk, when the -young champion despatches him, and sets at liberty -all the unfortunate victims that he has there confined.</p> - -<p>This explanation is from memory, and may not be -entirely correct.</p> - -<p>At the first-named temple, a party of our officers, -who taking a long tramp on a hunt, during the day, -did not get back until a late hour of the night, desired -to lay on the mats in the <i>kunqwa</i> until morning, -and threw themselves down. The Japanese strongly -objected to this, and insisted upon their going off -to their ships. This, on account of the lateness of the -hour, they declined doing. The officials went off and -came back with a lot of soldiers and a number of lanterns, -and were finally guilty of the rudeness of pulling -them by the feet. At this, our officers kicked -over their lanterns, and cocked and capped their -pieces, when the valiant assailants vanished at once. -Tatsnoske, one of the chief officers of the place, at -four o’clock in the morning, then went off to the flag-ship, -had the commodore woke up, and desired him -to order these officers off to the ship. The commodore -refused to do any such thing; and the next morn<span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">272</span>ing -sent the same officers and a captain of marines -to demand an apology for their conduct from Karakaha -Kahai, which was given without delay.</p> - -<p>There being no treaty of commerce with the Japanese, -preparatory to such a result hereafter, a number -of our coins had been delivered to them before -leaving the bay of Yedo, that they, might be -assayed at the capital, and the relative value, with -their own, established. In the meantime, it was no -doubt intended, or thought on our side, that as the -people in the stores were willing to sell, and our officers -were continually offering to purchase little curiosities -and other articles of their handicraft that were -to be found in their shops, that in this way, things -would find their level, and an impromptu trade, -as it were, spring up. This notion proved a mistaken -one; things were purchased, but they were paid -for in silver dollars at the rate of twelve hundred -cash each, and not directly to the seller, but through -a government officer called <i>gayoshio</i>.</p> - -<p>In strolling the streets of Simoda you see old crones, -arranging, in the open air, their warp for weaving. -The personal pulchritude of the cadaverous-complexioned -Japanese women, is not much under the best -circumstances, but when it is remembered that on -marrying, they shave off their eyebrows, and blacken -their teeth with some iron rust and acid, as a badge -of the marital state, their appearance becomes most -repulsive. The younger women, with their elaborate<span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">273</span> -arrangement of hair, who have not yet undergone this -process of disfigurement, though rather ungainly in -gait, owing to the use of clogs, and wearing about the -hips an awkward compressing scarf, are quite good-looking -and with lighter complexions, have also much -better-shaped eyes than the Chinese.</p> - -<p>The only wheeled vehicle you may see is a rude -hand-cart, the wheels without tires. Should you meet -a man on the back of an ox bringing to town bundles -of wood, the sight of your barbarian garments are -very apt to incense him greatly; and the rider, disturbed -by his movements dismounts, takes him by the -tether, and leads him aside.</p> - -<p>The fronts of the shops are closed with sliding -screens of paper, oiled to admit the light, and the -floors raised about two feet from the ground are covered -with mat-cushions, upon which, <i>a-la-Turk</i>, sits -the shopkeeper, who has left his straw sandals at the -door. You would scarcely be expected to remove -your boots at every shopdoor you entered, but if you -stepped up on the platform the shopkeeper would intimate -that your leather shoon would mar the whiteness -of his mats. The plan of purchase was mostly -pantomimic. Pointing to the article, you ask, “How -mutchee?” The shopkeeper repeating your “how -mutchee?” as he makes a mental calculation, proceeds -to hold up the fingers of one or both hands before you, -each finger being one hundred cash—estimating -twelve hundred to the dollar. The purchase com<span class="pagenum" id="Page_274">274</span>pleted, -you do not pay the seller, but the articles with -your name, and his mark are sent to the government -officer, <i>gayoshio</i>, when the imperial paw is placed -upon the specie you pay, and the seller is apt to get -the amount in copper coin. By an arbitrary decision -they made their itzeboo—a square piece of silver -with the government stamp, equal to a Spanish dollar—and -as they could take this dollar and coin -nearly three itzeboos from it, it became a very good -operation for the imperial treasury, at no time suffering -from over-filled coffers.</p> - -<p>The religion of the Japanese enjoins cleanliness -of person upon its votaries, but can scarcely divert -the repulsive and indecent manner in which it is obtained. -At the bath-houses in Simoda the sexes of -all ages bathe indiscriminately together.</p> - -<p>The Japanese in their intercourse with us, were always -pertinacious in assuring us, that they were not -Chinese; indeed they would have been very indignant -to be thought of a kindred race. They did not take -long to find out, that we were not Dutch. They -would mention derisively the fact of the length of -intercourse the Chinese had had with other countries, -and yet, that they had never built square-rigged vessels -like ours; they intimated more enterprise than -this for themselves. After the signing of the treaty -with us the imperial edict preventing the building of -their vessels, without open sterns, was repealed. The -larger junks usually laid in the bay of <i>Sirahama</i>,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">275</span> -further northward: those who came to Simoda, ran in -to make a harbor, when the weather became threatening, -or were engaged in bringing copper ore, from -some neighboring province, and carrying back charcoal -and wood.</p> - -<p>The Macedonian, after a little over two weeks absence, -returned from the Bonin islands, bringing the -intelligence, that the man, that we had previously -left at Port Lloyd, had decamped from there on some -whaler, after regaling himself on Uncle Sam’s bullocks. -We hailed her approach with much gratification, as -she brought sixty large sea-turtles—a perfect God-send—an -oasis in the desert of salt junk. “Soup! -soup!” resounded in the messes, louder than the -“Beef! beef!” in the American camp, that invoked -the thunders of Henry.</p> - -<p>The Lexington was sent to Loo-Choo to look after -things till the return of the other ships; carrying out -the recommendation contained in the introduction to -the work of Golownin: “Provided judicious means -shall be used and a foundation laid by a progressive -acquaintance through Loo-Choo.” The Macedonian, -Vandalia, and Southampton, were despatched to Hakodade, -or as it was then spelt on Russian authority, -Chackodade, in the island of Yeso. A poor fellow, -killed by falling from the topsail yard of the Powhatan, -was buried without difficulty or objection in -the ground of a temple, back of Kakizaki.</p> - -<p>On a fine sunshiny morning, in the latter part of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_276">276</span> -April, I had landed, according to previous appointment, -to take a botanical tramp into the country with -the author of the “Middle Kingdom,” and with a -gentleman from South Carolina, our botanist. I reached -the shore before them, and, a number of the villagers -around, stood on the glistening white beach between -Simoda and the fishing village of Kakizaki, watching -the lazy swell as it came in a roll against Centre -Sima, or broke with a low splash through its Gothic -cavern, when I was approached by two young Japanese, -whose dress and address told, that they were -gentlemen in their land. They wore the rich brocade -breeches; the handles of their short and long swords -were decorated with amulets, and the light blue oval -on the summit of their fresh shaven polls, shone far -smoother than “a stubble land at harvest home.” -After the characteristic bended and knee-pressing -salutation, accompanied with the aspirated “Eh!” -which only a Japanese can do exactly, which I jocularly -replied to with “Abeyo!” they came quite close -to me. Pointing to our different ships in the harbor, -they attempted to pronounce their names, but as they -scarcely succeeded, either in their sequence or their -articulation, particularly of Mississippi and Powhatan, -I did it for them, and at their request wrote -all of their names down, with one of their camel’s -hair pencils. This done, they affected to examine -with some interest the chain attached to my “tokay,” -or watch, and at the same time slipped into the bosom<span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">277</span> -of my vest an enveloped letter, which noticing, I immediately -attempted to withdraw, when they gently -restrained my hand, cast an anxious glance around, -and gave a most imploring look for secrecy. A -moment’s thought, and I was willing to indulge them -in this, believing the document to have some reference -to a matter which had been mooted by the -younger officers of the squadron, of which I was one. -Just after this, a couple of the resident officers came -up from the direction of Simoda, whose approach -was the signal for the scattering of the villagers, -who are not permitted to stand and gaze on a stranger. -Between them and my incognito epistolary friends, -salutations were formally interchanged, when both -parties moved off in opposite directions. The examining -look which accompanied these otherwise very -ordinary politenesses, on the part of those from Simoda, -caused the idea to pass through my mind that the -others were from another province.</p> - -<p>By this time, my friends from the flag-ship having -joined me, we struck into the country to the southward, -to take what in the “pigeon” dialect of the -Chinaman, is called a “look see” at the botany of -Japan, which those who have more of this pleasant -information than myself, represent as being of much -interest.</p> - -<p>Our path led through a very broken yet well-wooded -and cultivated country. We entered a small -building used as a schoolhouse, and also as a place of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_278">278</span> -worship. In a room was a colossal figure of some -female deity in a sitting posture, which, not being a -Buddhist representation, must have been intended for -a likeness of <i>Ten-sio-dai-zin</i>, the especial deity of -Japan. Officers who had seen it before us, looked -upon it as a fine specimen of their casting in bronze, -but we found it on examination to be of wood, painted -in imitation. We had an opportunity of seeing the -little dwarfed trees which they are so skilful in preserving; -and in front of many of the houses, different -trees trained in the form of animals, with sea-shells -to represent the eyes. The cultivation, which is very -close and clean, was mostly in terraces and between -hills. Occasionally we reached a level field, which -was being ploughed. This is done with a small -plough, with a single hand and beam, the share being -like an iron scoop, not of much diameter. It is drawn -by an ox in traces, and with wooden saddle, while -a small boy leads him with a stick attached to a ring -in the nose, and a man holds the handle of the diminutive -earth-scratcher. Little pathway streams are -turned to use by being made to fall into wooden -troughs on the end of balanced wooden levers, which -filling and precipitating at intervals, with a weight on -the opposite end of the beam, are made to pound rice -in mortars. We encountered any number of wayside -shrines, mostly made by placing small stone images in -little coves: occasionally a short flight of steps led -up to one. At these the wayfarer prays.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_279">279</span></p> - -<p>About two o’clock in the day we came upon a large -urban Buddhist temple. The grounds around were -quite extensive and well cultivated. You entered -them under a number of steep-roofed gateways, guarded -by a number of little stone-lieutenants to Buddha, -who seemed to be armed with besoms to sweep away -evil spirits when they should visit the premises at the -pale glimpses of the moon. The building was larger -than any I had seen in Simoda. The interior being -unsealed overhead, you could look up through rough -hewn timbers to the thatching of the roof. The floors, -brightly polished, were covered with a white dust, as -if the building was neighbor to a flour-mill. The -grain of the wood of the large unpolished columns -around the altar, was very beautiful. Buddhas in -any number were around the room. Black barrel-shaped -“tom-toms” were in the middle of the floor, -the beating on which, by the shiny-headed priests, is -intended to attract the attention of their divinities to -their worship, as a daguerreotypist in taking your -picture first tells you, “Now it commences.” On one -side of the main entrance there was a native inscription: -“The laws are ever revolving;” on the other, -“The period of Buddha is near: remember it.” To -the beams inside were pasted a number of strips -of white paper, which when blank are called <i>gohir</i>, -and intended as emblems of purity; and when written -upon, according to some, are inscribed with moral -and religious sentences. Those that I noticed were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_280">280</span> -covered with Japanese characters, which I was told -were the names of those buried in an adjoining cemetery, -for whom mass had been performed. In the -cemetery near by were a great number of tombs—little -square stone columns very close together, because -their dead were buried in a sitting posture. -On all of these you saw a compound character, meaning -“Returned to vacuity,” and underneath the inscription -told that Leu-tah-churo, or somebody else, -had gone to nothingness, in such a year of the reign -of <i>Tairi</i>.</p> - -<p>Eight lascivious-looking priests resided at the temple, -having the receipts from the <i>kunqua</i> attached, as -a part of their revenue.</p> - -<p>The hour of the day having arrived, when that tocsin -of man’s soul, the dinner-bell, would have been -heard, if at home, we seated ourselves on the front -steps of the temple to partake of a little “chow-chow.” -While thus engaged the incidents of the -morning came to my recollection, and I handed over -my epistle “<i>extraordinaire</i>,” which I had gotten from -the two Japanese, to my friend our interpreter, to get -an inkling of what it was all about, at the same time -giving him my surmises as to its contents. It was -of much more import; he thought the commodore -should see it, promising to return it to me. As there -were a number around us, no doubt indulging in the -Japanese espionage, I only got at the time, the superscription, -which was:<span class="pagenum" id="Page_281">281</span> “A secret communication, -for the American men-of-war ships, to go up -higher.”</p> - -<p>On leaving this place we clambered to the summit -of high, bleak hills, with a very white volcanic formation, -at the top, so bright that at a distance it -might well have been taken for snow. The ascent -was anything but agreeable, as we were impeded by -thick bushes, brier and bramble. Two Japanese who -attempted to play pilot, fared worst, but upon getting -up some distance had the “sava” to see that going -ahead were as well as going back. We rested at an -abandoned quarry on the summit, and from here had -a fine view of the surrounding country. My companions -having filled the leaves of an old census-book -with little botanical specimens, comprising rare little -plants and cosy little wild flowers of every hue, together -with what they thought were some new specimens -of the fern family, we descended into a pretty -little valley waving in wheat, and at sundown were -at Simoda.</p> - -<p>That night the officer of the mid-watch of the Mississippi -heard the words “American! American!” -pronounced in a low tone from the top of the gangway-ladder, -and immediately two young Japanese descended -to the deck. They made signs to him of -great fatigue, held up their tender though blistered -hands, and desired to cast off their boat from the -ship, which they were not permitted to do. An attempt -was made to comprehend them by means of a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">282</span> -Chinese servant, who was awoke for the purpose, but -the domestic celestial insisted that they had “rice -for sale.” The commander of the Mississippi directed -them to be put on board of the flag-ship. Here it -was ascertained they were from Yedo; that they -were desirous of coming to our country, and that, unable -to effect that object or have communication with -us when we lay off Yokohama, they had followed us, -at much risk, in an open boat, from the bay of Yedo -to our anchorage at Simoda. Their plan was, after -getting on board of us, to permit their boat to go -adrift, allowing their swords to remain in her, which -family relics the Japanese regard as very heir-looms, -not to be parted with but in the last extremity, and -by this means to produce the belief that their owners -had been drowned when the boat should be picked -up. Fearing there might be some deception in the -matter, perhaps a ruse to see in what faith we were -prepared to observe their laws, which we were aware -prohibited any of their people from leaving Japan for -a foreign country, they were ordered to be put ashore -in a ship’s boat at a point where they would not be -liable to observation, which was done, the hour being -nearly two in the morning. On reaching the beach -they soon disappeared in the woods.</p> - -<p>A few days afterward, some of our officers in their -strolls ashore, ascertained that there were two Japanese -confined in a cage at a little barrack back of -the town, and on going there they were found to be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_283">283</span> -the persons who had paid the midnight visit to our -ships, and they also proved to be my unfortunate -friends of the letter. They did not appear greatly -down-cast by their situation, and one of them wrote -in his native character on a piece of board, and passed -through the bars of his cage, to one of our surgeons -present, what follows:—</p> - -<div class="less"> - -<p>When a hero fails in his purpose, his acts are then regarded as -those of a villain and robber. In public have we been seized and -pinioned, and darkly imprisoned for many days; the village elders -and headmen treat us disdainfully, their oppressions being grievous -indeed; therefore looking up while yet we have nothing wherewith -to reproach ourselves, it must now be seen whether a hero will prove -himself to be one indeed.</p> - -<p>Regarding the liberty of going through the sixty states (of -Japan) as not enough for our desires, we wished to make the circuit -of the five great continents; this was our heart’s wish for a long time. -Suddenly our plans are defeated, and we find ourselves in a half-sized -house, where eating, resting, sitting, and sleeping, are difficult, -nor can we find our exit from this place. Weeping we seem as fools, -laughing as rogues—alas! for us, silent we can only be.</p> - -<p class="psig"> -<span class="smcap">Isagi Kóóda</span>,<br /> -<span class="smcap">Kwansuchi Manji</span>. -</p></div> - -<p>The commodore, it is said, did not hear of their -capture and confinement, until the next morning, -when he sent some officers ashore to see what might -be done in the way of intercession, but on reaching -the barrack, it was found that they had that morning -been sent to the city of Yedo, and as the attendant -at the place made sign, for the purpose of being beheaded.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_284">284</span></p> - -<p>The following is the translation of the letter, which -the unfortunate aspirants, for a sight of the great -world, beyond their hermetic empire, placed in the -breast of my vest, the neat and sharply-defined characters -of whose original, as it lies before me, would -assure even one, who did not comprehend their language, -that it had been pencilled by men of intelligence -and taste.</p> - -<div class="less"> - -<p>Two scholars of Yedo, in Japan, named Isagi Kóóda and Kwansuchi -Manji, present this letter to the high officers or others who -manage affairs. That which we have received is meager and trifling, -as are our persons insignificant, so that we are ashamed to come before -distinguished personages. We are ignorant of arms and their -uses in battle, nor do we know the rules of strategy and discipline. -We have in short, uselessly whiled away our months and years, and -know nothing. We heard a little of the customs and knowledge of -the Europeans and Americans, and have desired to travel about in -the five great continents, but the maritime prohibitions of our country -are exceeding strict, so that for the foreigners to enter the “inner -land” or for natives to go to other countries, are alike among the immutable -regulations. Therefore our desire to travel has been checked, -and could only go to and fro in our breasts, unable to find utterance, -and our feet so hampered that we could not stir.</p> - -<p>This had been the case many years, when happily the arrival of so -many of your ships anchoring in our waters, now for several days, -and our careful and repeated observation of the kind and humane -conduct of your officers, and their love for others, has revived the -cherished desire of years, which now struggles for its exit. We have -decided on a plan, which is, very privately to take us aboard of your -ships and carry us to sea, that we may travel over the five continents, -even if, by so doing, we disregard our laws. We hope you will not -regard our humble request with disdain, but rather enable us to carry -it out. Whatever we are able to do to serve, will be considered as an -order so soon as we hear it.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_285">285</span></p> - -<p>When a lame man sees another walking, or a pedestrian sees another -riding, would he not be glad to be in his place? How much -more to us, who, for our whole lives, could not go beyond 30° E. and -W., or 25° N. to S., when we behold you come riding on the high -wind, and careering over the vast waves, with lightning speed coasting -along the five continents, does it appear as if the lame had a way -to walk, or the walker an opportunity to ride!</p> - -<p>We hope you who manage affairs will condescend to grant and regard -our request, for as the restrictions of our country are not yet -removed, if this matter becomes known, we shall have no place to -flee, and doubtless will suffer the extremest penalty, which result -would greatly grieve your kind and benevolent hearts toward your -fellow-men.</p> - -<p>We trust to have our request granted, and also that you will secrete -us until you sail, so as to avoid all risk of endangering life. When -we return here at a future day, we are sure that what has passed will -not be very closely investigated. Though rude and unpractised in -speech, our desires are earnest, and we hope you will regard us in -compassion, nor doubt or oppose our request. April 11th.</p></div> - -<p>An additional note enclosed, was:—</p> - -<div class="less"> - -<p>The enclosed letter contains the earnest request we have had for -many days, and which we tried in many ways to get off to you at -Yokohama, in a fishing boat by night, but the cruisers were too thick, -and none others were allowed to come alongside, so that we were in -great uncertainty what to do. Learning that the ships were coming -here, we have come to wait, intending to seize a punt and come off, -but have not succeeded. Trusting that your honors will consent, -after people are quiet to morrow night, we will be at Kakizaki in a -punt, at a place where there are no houses, near the beach. There -we greatly desire you to come and meet us, and thereby carry out our -hopes to their fruition. April 25th.</p></div> - -<p>The Japanese smaller ordnance is quite defective, -some of their pieces loading at the breech, by unscrewing. -Many of their gentlemen, among their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_286">286</span> -other accomplishments, study the military art. To -this number, and their artillery officers, our handsome -small pieces,—Lieutenant Dalgren’s twelve-pounder -brass howitzers—without a superfluous ounce of -metal, and probably as admirable guns as are to be -found in use among any nation—were always objects -of great interest. The Japanese were presented -with one of these howitzers before we left the bay of -Yedo, but none of the lock-wafers, or boxes of canister, -or other fixed ammunition for them, were given, -nor any instruction as to the manner in which they -were made.</p> - -<p>The following is a translation of a letter from a -military man from Yedo, who, for the single object of -collecting information, had been following the squadron, -in the hope of meeting one of our officers. He -was a gentleman of some rank, and had influence with -several men in authority at Simoda, who visited him -and never prevented his coming aboard. The letter -was written in Dutch, and as a specimen of progress -of military science in Japan, and search for other information, -is not uninteresting.</p> - - -<p class="center">A GREAT SECRET.</p> - -<div class="less"> - -<p>The law in Japan will not allow us to speak or to write with people -of another country. Yesterday, on my return from the ship, I found -that out, and it was not pleasant—Now you’ll be on shore to day, -with friendship; I can not control (check) my desire to speak in -writing, and shall follow up the prompting of my soul.</p> - -<p>At an early age I commenced studying the European and Chinese -art of war with the aid of my teachers at Yedo; the European is cer<span class="pagenum" id="Page_287">287</span>tainly -superior to the Chinese mode of warfare, I think and know -more of it. On the arrival of the American ships off Uraga, Kanagawa, -Yokahama, and Simoda, I went to and fro to those places, and -on board of the ships at every opportunity, I saw there several instruments -and machines, but don’t know enough about it. I could not -speak with the Americans for the persons who visit the ships in business, -would not allow it.</p> - -<p>Where is the island Borin,<a id="FNanchor_2_2" href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">2</a> and who lives there? Tell me, if you -please, the names of some great countries.</p> - -<p>What are <i>Kanaka Wich</i>, to what country do they belong?<a id="FNanchor_3_3" href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">3</a></p> - -<p>What are the implements at the disposal of an officer, who commands -ten thousand soldiers in the field?</p> - -<p>What are the advantages of the steam-gun?</p> - -<p>Give me a recipe to make percussion-caps.</p> - -<p>In a Dutch book on military art I found, that for a newly-invented -gun or <i>musket</i> the percussion-caps are attached to the cartridge by a -thread. Why don’t the Americans have such muskets, haven’t they -yet discovered how?</p> - -<p>Why do people from other countries live in Loo-Choo?</p> - -<p>Simoda on the horizon from the north pole in what degree? And -in what degree to the east from London? a few days ago the masters -of the Mississippi have been measuring, they must know.</p> - -<p>If you will be kind enough to give me the information, what is the -most useful and latest invention in America for military men. I -shall be obliged to you and be always ready to oblige you in return.</p> - -<p>It will worry your mind to read my letter and I find expressions -for what my soul suggests.</p> - -<p class="psig"> -B. N. M., or (X.) -</p> - -<p>I hope you will answer my letter, I go on board of the ships in the -boats that take the water. I can not go on any other boat, and am -always in the hope that the boat will be sent to the ship where you -are.</p> - -<p>I shall go to Yedo and be back in Simoda on the return of the -ships from Hakodade, and hope to see you then in good health.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_288">288</span></p> - -<p>Query. The great Mexico empire, which belongs to the powerful -United States, where is that situated?</p> - -<p>The authorities have notified me, that I was not allowed to receive -Americans at the house and converse with them.</p> - -<p>I therefore write this letter and shall be on board your ship to-morrow -and speak with you.</p></div> - -<p>The following day he was on board, according to -promise, in the suite of some Japanese officers. -There was no opportunity to answer his questions -that day, and on the return of the ships from Hakodade -he did not make his appearance, retained by <i>illness</i> -or otherwise at Yedo, that is all. The officers -heard from him, but never saw him again after that -day, and his questions remained unanswered. “Give -me a recipe to make percussion-caps.”</p> - -<p>We noticed the number of matchlocks, that the -Japanese were armed with, when we landed first in -Japan—at Gorihama. The Dutch writers say, that -they are aware of the superiority of the musket, but -that a deficiency of flints in the geological formation -of their country, and their determined aversion to -dependence upon foreigners for anything essential to -their military equipment, prevents their adoption. -Their curiosity about the mode of making percussion-caps, -and the “wafers” for the howitzers, was very -great at all times.</p> - -<p>It was well enough with the Japanese, as long as -they remained secluded, but when the visit of the -American ships gave their military men an oppor<span class="pagenum" id="Page_289">289</span>tunity -of seeing what great improvements had been -made in</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent6">“——— the mortal engines,</div> - <div class="verse">Whose rude throats, Jove’s dread clamors conterfeit,”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>the contrast showed them the defectiveness of their -defences, and with an enterprise far ahead of their -Cathayan neighbors, they at once proceeded to cudgel -their brains to see how their security might be made -greater. They at first thought of fortifying Simoda, -but being told that it could never become a great -commercial place, they gave that up. Izabavo, one -of their most prominent engineers, was told to make -a report as to the fortification of Uraga, because with -more sagacity than that displayed by the Americans, -they know its importance with reference to their -capital. Yedo is the London—the Paris of Japan. -When it falls, the empire goes with it. They know -that the supplies for this enormous place are gotten -coastwise by the junks, who come into the bay, and -that the blockading of Uraga in the bay of Yedo, -easily reached, would stop the throat of the Japanese -empire.</p> - -<p>Izabavo reported, that, as no two fortifications -could protect Uraga, and that the width and roughness -of the bay at times, and the depth of water, -would make floating batteries impracticable, a gunboat -system, such as was once adopted by our own government, -must be their defence. These matters were -discussed by the imperial council, as also the reorgani<span class="pagenum" id="Page_290">290</span>zation -of their army on the European plan, that is the -having a standing army, that would obey promptly, -the behests of the centralized government at Yedo, -and quiet any refractory sentiment of their thousands, -like the <i>coup d’etat</i> of the 2d of December by Napoleon III., -instead of each of the princes of the empire -contributing a quota of troops, as now.</p> - -<p>We had now lain nearly a month at Simoda, seeing -more of Japan than during the two months we -lay in the bay of Yedo. We had enjoyed the walks -ashore, we had enjoyed baths from a fine spring, and -picknicked in the woods of Sarahama. But we had -missed Foogee Yama, which at all other points we -thought ubiquitous. I had climbed the high hills -back of Kakizaki, to get another look at the mountain, -but other and higher hills more distant, obstructed -the view.</p> - -<p><i>Foogee Yama</i> since our arrival in the waters of -Japan, as the Howadjis on the Nile tell of the great -pyramid, seemed to follow us wherever we went. -When the cold clear morning of February found us -running into the bay of Kawatsoo, we saw over our -bowsprit Foogee, looming up in austere magnificence. -When our colors were hauled down in the evening at -Yokohama, every one admired the majestic beauty of -Foogee peering like a ponderous pile of marble out -of the furnace of sunset. If the rains fell heavily -during the night, when the curtain of cloud lifted up -in the morning, in patches here and there, Foogee ap<span class="pagenum" id="Page_291">291</span>peared -to wear under its mantle of chilling cold, a -garment of genial green; and when the Mississippi -lay at Webster island, from her hurricane-deck, above -the line of pines that covered the bold bluffs of the -shore, sometimes near, sometimes afar off, its summit -clothed in fleecy clouds of deferential beauty, grandly -shone the towering mound; so now, land-locked and -our view shut in by the high hills around Simoda, we -missed Foogee Yama.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_290f.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">FOOGEE YAMA.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_292">292</span></p> - - - - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII.</h2> - - -<p>On the 13th of May, the fifty days after the signing -of the treaty having nearly expired, the Powhatan -and Mississippi started for Hakodadi, leaving -the storeship Supply at anchor at Simoda. Instead -of keeping in shore, the two steamers stood off and -ran between <i>Oho Sima</i> and <i>Ja Sima</i>. The day -being clear, <i>Foogee</i> from his aerial height was soon -looking at us. We ran quite close to the southwestern -side, and had a good view of Oho Sima. -The whole island appears to have been upheaved by -volcanic action from the sea. From the jaws of a -basin-shaped crater, issued white smoke and ashes. -The side of the mountain next to us was marked by -large fissures, or streaked with streams of lava. The -vegetation on many of the slopes presented a pretty -picture, when contrasted with the dull-charred mass -that encompassed it. There are said to be three -towns on the place. We saw two quite plainly, but -where their harbor is, or how the steep shores are -approached in rough weather, it was difficult to perceive.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_293">293</span></p> - -<p>After rounding Oho Sima, we stood into the land, -and during the day ran in full sight of the shores of -Niphon, running northward from the entrance of the -bay of Yedo. The fields of barley, just assuming -its yellow dress, were spread out as far as the vision -extended inland. Both ships stopped at intervals to -make soundings. At one time, when we had stopped -for this purpose, and got bottom, at twenty-eight -fathoms, on what is called an “over-fall,” the opposition -of current and wind made a “chow-chow” -sea, which swashed over our rail, while the fine -buoyant sea-boats of Japanese fishermen around, -danced dryly like ducks.</p> - -<p>This day, I think it was, marked what may be considered -a new item in the history of typography. -We had on board one of the little engines, which -from the days of Faustus have evolved more power, -than the ponderous ones, that revolved our paddles, -and by its aid, in a sea-way, an intelligent midshipman, -familiar with the art preservative of arts, -“wet sheets,” and printer’s ink, caused to be struck -off copies of the commodore’s correspondence with -the Japanese, and of the surveys of Lieutenant -Maury. That little press deserves a place in the -patent-office, near the one, from which came “Poor -Richard’s Almanack.”</p> - -<p>After a run of three days, standing in for the shore -during the day, and off during the night, making -soundings at intervals, seeing an occasional school<span class="pagenum" id="Page_294">294</span> -of whales, and our daily observations and reckonings -showing a strong current in our favor, going to prove—what -has been advanced by many—the existence -of a continuous current on the coast of Japan, similar -in character and direction to the Gulf stream on our -coast, we made the entrance to the straits of Sangar. -The land on either side was quite notable. That on -the northern or island of Yeso side, bold and sharply -defined, while a singular conformation on the Niphon -or southern side, looked exactly the profile of the -Leviathans that frequent the waters in its vicinity—“wery -like a whale.” On entering we found a strong -eastwardly tide running through and against us. By -sundown we had run some distance in, under the -high shores of the northern side, when it came on -thick, and the heads of both steamers were put outward. -We had made during the day a point of longitude -further to the east than any, that we had reached -since leaving the United States. Soundings were -made every fifteen minutes during the night, and daylight -found us enveloped in one of the dense fogs, -from which the Japanese empire in this section, according -to Golownin, is seldom free during the -entire year. Both ships had to announce their proximity -for some hours, to one another, by the use of -their steam-whistles and the striking of their bells. -When the fog lifted on the morning of the 17th, we -found that the tidal current during the night, had set -us in, rather than out, and holding on westwardly for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_295">295</span> -a short time, we discovered over a low peninsula -nearly ahead, described by the Russian captain Ricord, -in his voyages for the liberation of Golownin, -the Macedonian, Vandalia, and Southampton, at anchor -inside of the harbor of Hakodadi. We soon -rounded a high promontory, and stood into a magnificent -bay. The distance we had run from Simoda -was six hundred and nine miles. About 11 o’clock -we anchored within gun-shot of the town; it may be -near the spot, where forty-one years before lay the -imperial Russian brig Diana, to procure the release -from an imprisonment in stockade cages of three -years, of her former commander and his companions, -by the Japanese—after three voyages, in which she -was successful.</p> - -<p>The temperature, on our arrival, we found very -materially different from what we had left at Simoda; -the difference of latitude is about seven degrees. The -snow still lay on the mountains around, and the air -made thick boots and an overcoat comfortable.</p> - -<p>The bay of Hakodadi is most spacious and majestic -in its sweep, and for facility of entrance and security -of anchorage, it can scarcely be surpassed by any -other in the world. The width at its mouth is so -great that no two fortifications could command or -protect it, yet the curvature of the high land around -is such as to afford the greatest shelter. For all the -uses of Americans it is worth fifty Simodas; here our -enterprising whalers, after being buffeted about in the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_296">296</span> -rude seas of Ochotsk and Japan in its vicinity, may -ere long repair to recruit and refit, and procure supplies -of wood and water, instead of being compelled -as hitherto, to make the long stretch to the Sandwich -Islands. Besides this, a line drawn on the arc of a -great circle from California to North China, passes -through the straits of Sangar and by Hakodadi; and -here, and not at Simoda, which has been mentioned -as a depot, would coal have to be placed for the use -of steamers between San Francisco and Shanghae.</p> - -<p>It was agreed by all the old Mediterranean cruisers -aboard, as we dropped anchor, that the view -around was the counterpart of Gibraltar and its -vicinity. The northern side from where we lay was -the main land of Spain; the low sandy peninsula, -over which we could easily see the water of Sangar, -was the “neutral ground,” encircling Smugglers’ -bay; on our left hand lay a small fishing-village, -which corresponded to the Spanish town of Algeciras. -The southern part of the hill under which the town -is, was Point Europa; the hill itself, in its high and -rugged isolation, was the frowning rock that enclosed -the sulphurous engines, while in the distance, across -the straits, on the north end of Niphon, now well discerned, -or vaguely seen, as the sun shines out or the -mists vary, is the natural prototype of Ape’s hill, in -Africa, whose simial inhabitants are said to find their -way most mysteriously across the Mediterranean. To -my eye, the place bore a great resemblance to Cape<span class="pagenum" id="Page_297">297</span> -Town, Cape of Good Hope, if the mount in the rear -were little more flattened on the summit, while an adjoining -hill was the “Lion’s Rump.”</p> - -<p>The city—containing about four thousand houses, -in which there is an average of four persons—is -built in a convex form reaching the water’s edge, and -at the base of a very high and abrupt circular hill, -called <i>Hakodadi Yama</i>. The most prominent objects -are the temples, one of which is some two hundred -feet square, whose red tile roofs reflect the sun, and -suggest the idea of a Portuguese place. The principal -streets are wide, running parallel with the water, -rolled with gravel, and very cleanly kept. Those -that intersect them are narrower, and closed with -gateways of wood. From walls at either end of the -place, and entrenchments dug on other sides, it must -have been the object to fortify it. The houses of -wood, and with more stories and larger than those of -Simoda, have great projecting eaves. The clap-boards -making the covering of the roof are singularly confined -in their places by a number of cobble-stones: -such a place would be hard to take by street-fighting, -for every roof would furnish missiles for the annoyance -of assailants. Every precaution seems to be -taken against fire—brooms and barrels of water surmounting -each house and before every door. At -some places they have primitive little fire-engines, -which appear to be stationary. The streets are -thronged with the police who are very numerous,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_298">298</span> -armed with sword, and organized as military, and any -number of miserable-looking curs, called <i>yenos</i>, resembling -shouds, or dogs bred between the wolf and -the dog; meaner looking than the <i>cayotes</i> of California.</p> - -<p>Having no previous knowledge of our intended -visit, a perfect panic prevailed among the people of -the place on the arrival of our sailing ships in their -bay, which was increased by the arrival of the two -fire-ships. The municipal authorities, it is said, were -the first to leave the place; and the women were sent -after them. For several days long lines of horses, -packed with movables, could be seen leaving the City -and winding away over a long sandy plain, like a -string of camels in a desert.</p> - -<p>The cause of all this commotion was afterward -found to be a belief among the inhabitants, that our -visit was to bring them to account for having imprisoned -some American seamen who had been shipwrecked -on their coast some years ago. A number -of the junks in the harbor also left, though there -were some two hundred at anchor continually during -our stay. It required some time to pacify the people; -although six weeks had elapsed since the signing of -the treaty, the authorities protested that they had -heard nothing of it, and consequently nothing of the -intended visit of the squadron. They said they could -not take the responsibility of having any communication -with us, except to furnish wood and water.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_299">299</span> -They represented their position as embarrassing, and -hoped that we would not come ashore until the arrival -of higher officers than themselves.</p> - -<p>In the meantime a survey of the harbor was proceeded -in; some very good wild game was killed on -the opposite shore from the town, and our seine being -hauled, yielded nice salmon and quantities of shellfish, -which were most acceptable.</p> - -<p>The second day after our arrival, the commodore—varying -from his usual rule of only seeing the highest -officer of a place, who would have been, in this instance, -Prince Matsmai Idzee-no-kami, residing at the -city of Matsmai, not far distant—granted an interview -on the Mississippi, to Matsmai Kageyu, deputy of -the prince of Matsmai, or freely translated, “Prince’s -family’s great officer,” and to Yendo Matazaymon, an -officer of Hakodadi. The boats in which they came -off were like others, but were the first and only ones -that I saw <i>rowed</i> in Japan instead of sculled; and -this was done by continually revolving the oar as -they pulled. The rowers, who were numerous, were -dressed in long, green gowns, and characters on the -shoulders told whom they served, like the inscription -about the neck of the thrall of Cedric the Saxon.</p> - -<p>These officers said, not being able to divine the -cause of our visit, they had concluded it to be a predatory -one; and that the people possessed of this -idea had been leaving the place with their movables, -and that the stampede still continued.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_300">300</span></p> - -<p>On delivering to them a letter from the commissioners, -however, and showing them the treaty, their -anxiety was at once allayed. When told that we -would not be followed by their police when we came -ashore for a walk, they said very well, but that they -thought that our officers and theirs being seen in -friendly intercourse, would have a good effect with -the people, and cause those who had left, to return. -They said they had nothing at Hakodadi to dispose -of but fish-oil, dried fish, and deerskins. The relative -value of our currency and theirs, was settled by -weighing our dollar, which was a feather lighter -than three of their little square coins—the kana-its-evoo. -The effect of this rating was to make our dollar -equal to 4,800 cash—their <i>its-evoo</i> being estimated -at 1,600 cash. This was scarcely just when it -was recollected that in China our dollar was only -taken for 1,200, or at most, 1,600 cash.</p> - -<p>The wind blowing very fresh, these officers remained -on board some time, when they were entertained in -the cabin, and shown over the ship. When they -came off they brought with them a present consisting -of dried fish, placed on a lacquered tray, and a quantity -of sweet potatoes contained in a straw-bag.</p> - -<p>The next day the officers of the squadron visited -the shore, landing at a neat flight of stone steps, -which had been set apart by the authorities for the -purpose; no doubt—as things in Japan undergo -slight changes in forty years—the same flight that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_301">301</span> -Golownin descended from his captivity. Many desirous -of getting some of the <i>curios</i> that the place -possessed, indicated a most pressing propensity for -purchase, taking the shopkeepers, of a place generally -dull, very much by surprise. On this day there was -exposed at the shop-fronts some of their swords, an -article forbidden to be sold out of the country by Japanese -laws; of the purchase of one or two, by some of -our officers, the authorities subsequently made complaint -to the commodore, as well as of other things -not very creditable to our reputation. In doing so, -they said: “In general, when upright, cordial propriety -marks intercourse, then peace, good feeling, and -harmony, are real between the parties; but if harshness, -violence, and grasping, characterize it, then hate -and distrust, with collision arise, and love will not be -found to bring the hearts of the people together. -This is a rule of heaven, concerning which, no one -can have any doubt.”</p> - -<p>“In general,” the terms of this communication -are rather extreme, but that “cordial propriety” -marked the conduct of some of our officers—conduct -which was not at all calculated to make “our -name great among the heathen”—it would be untrue -to say.</p> - -<p>On landing I visited the large temple behind and -above the town, having a background of a dense -grove of cypress, and very conspicuous from the -water. Its front, as we stepped it off, was eighty<span class="pagenum" id="Page_302">302</span>seven -paces. The interior exceeded in gilding, and -elaborateness of unpainted carving, anything I had -yet seen in Japan. I would have taken it to be a -Sintoo temple, from a female image with an aureola, -resembling the images in catholic churches with the -golden halo encircling the head, but in another corner -there was an image of a shaved-head Buddha in -wood, and brilliantly lacquered. Resembling very -much some images I saw on the British war-steamer -Rattler, taken at the capture of Rangoon, I concluded -the image must have been brought to this remote -point from India, although religion is a matter -upon which all persons visiting Japan for a limited -period as we did, are liable to fall into the greatest -errors.</p> - -<p>There are two accounts of the introduction of -Buddhism into Japan; according to Siebold, in 552, Sching-ming-whang, -king of Petsi—a Corean state, -then a dependant and ally of Japan—sent to the -court of the <i>mikado</i>, a bronze image of the Sakya -Buddha, with flags, books, &c.; and a letter which -said,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_303">303</span> “This doctrine is the best of any. It reveals -what was a riddle and a mystery even to Kung-foo-tse. -It promises us happiness and retribution, immeasurable -and boundless; and finally makes of us an unsurpassable -Buddhi. It is, to use a simile, a treasure -containing all that human heart desires; affording -all that is for our good. And this treasure possesses -a twofold value, because it so completely adapts itself -to the nature of our soul. Pray or make vows -according to the disposition of your mind, you will -want for nothing. The doctrine came to us from -farther India. The king of Petsi imparts it to the -realm of the <i>mikado</i>, in order that it may be there -diffused, and that which is written in the book of -Buddha be fulfilled. My doctrine shall spread toward -the East.”</p> - -<p>This temple may have been one dedicated to -<i>Rioboo-Synsu</i> worship—Sintooism blended with -Buddhism—and the female image was that of Tensio-dai-zin. -Buddhism is regarded as a kind of safeguard -against expelled and detested Christianity, and the -lower order are all Buddhists.</p> - -<p>The Sintoo and Buddhist priests or bonzes, who -constitute the clergy of Japan, are held in very little -repute by the people, and this remote regard seems -to be reciprocated by the clericals. Both classes, so -far as I observed, lounge and gossip in their places -of worship, attaching little or no sanctity to it, except -it may be, when immediately engaged in their devotions. -On one occasion I noticed a parcel of devotees -in a temple, with a kind of sack surplice about their -shoulders, engaged in their religious exercises, and -while thus employed, some shaven-poll junior priests -were very deliberately sweeping the floor-mats in -their faces, as if giving them a practical illustration -of throwing dust in their eyes. In passing from the -front of one altar to another they invariably dropped<span class="pagenum" id="Page_304">304</span> -the priests’ perquisite of copper cash in the well-locked -boxes.</p> - -<p>The bonzes of the orders of the blind, who may be -seen walking the streets in their gauze gowns and -swinging sashes, appear to be in high favor with the -populace. The history of these orders is eminently -Japaneish. The first is called <i>Bussatz Sato</i>. Centuries -are nothing in Japanese chronology, and this -was instituted many centuries ago, by one Senmimar, -the junior son of a <i>mikado</i>, who was a perfect Japanese -Adonis, in commemoration of his having wept -himself blind for the loss of his princess, whose good -looks were equal to his own. The first order had -existed for ages, when the second appeared. Yoritomo, -the first <i>ziogoon</i>, of whom I have previously -spoken, while leading the <i>mikado’s</i> troops, defeated -the rebel prince Feki, who fell, and his general Kakekigo -captured. He was a general of great renown, -and Yoritomo strove to gain his prisoner’s friendship, -by loading him with kindness, and finally offering him -his liberty. The captive Kakekigo replied: “I can -love none but my slain master. I owe you gratitude; -but you caused Prince Feki’s death, and never can I -look upon you without wishing to kill you. My best -way to avoid such ingratitude, and to reconcile my -conflicting duties, is never to see you more; and thus -do I insure it.” He tore out his eyes, and presented -them to Yoritomo on a salver. The prince, struck -with admiration, released him; and in retirement<span class="pagenum" id="Page_305">305</span> -Kakekigo founded the second order of the blind, -called after his former master, <i>Feki-sado</i>.</p> - -<p>The ascent to the <i>Hakodadi Yama</i>, a hill rising -some fifteen hundred feet back of the town, I made -through fields of black, rich soil, not yet dry from -melting snow, which, a Japanese made sign, had been -breast deep. Wild grape-vines all around were budding -out. The view from the top of this hill was -very commanding: across the straits in Niphon, and -on the mountain tops around, you saw “winter lingering,” -&c. Below, long trains of pack-horses loaded -with charcoal were continually traversing the plain; -the fishing villages were busy with their seines; the -town showed like a narrow strip of houses, and our -ships and the three hundred junks in the harbor, went -but a little way to fill up the great water space -around. Ours were no doubt the first Anglo-Saxon -feet, that ever trod this height. We found a look-out -house up there, where the movement of every -ship passing through the straits of Sangar into the -sea of Japan is noted. It was counting the whalers -passing here, and the annual increase of the number -bearing the American flag, that tended to give the -Japanese an exalted opinion of the greatness of our -country, though one of the look-outs did not show it -in a very flattering way. He desired the direction of -America: I gave it to him. He then very deliberately -drew a large O with the point of his sword-case -on the ground, and said “Nipong;” and then drawing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_306">306</span> -a small o he said “America;” this was very well -when the “Lion played painter,” but not admiring his -geographical scale, I permitted his “Nipong” chart -to remain, and drew one for “America” many times -larger, whereat he took no more interest in the comparison.</p> - -<p>On descending from the Yama, I spied an open gate -leading into a prison-yard enclosed by walls and -stockade. The objections by the attendant and the -police to our entrance were strong, as those we had -first experienced in Simoda. They drew their finger -across their throats and held up their right thumb to -show the penalty they might undergo from the chief -man, in not hindering our movements. But we had -seen enough of them not to be deterred by any such -flimsiness. We knew that, if we wished to sneeze in -their territory, that they would shake their head, -hold up the chief-man finger, and say “Ni! ni!” On -one occasion two companions and myself had approached -a small building with a sliding door, to see -whether it did not contain a cage. The officers attempted -to impede our progress, but on our getting -close to it, they looked horrified and shuddered; two -of the party, who were smoking, supposing that it -was a powder-magazine, immediately threw away -their cigars. On sliding aside the door, there was -visible an old mat in a small vacant room. We made -up our mind, in our movements to do only what we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_307">307</span> -ourselves would deem proper in our own country, and -so went ahead.</p> - -<p>In the town there are fire-proof magazines, built at -intervals by the government, for the storage of articles, -and for the protection of things during a fire.</p> - -<p>There are no forts in the vicinity of Hakodadi, unless -a small excavated one with two direct embrasures -may be so called. This place was without any -garrison; you descended into it by an inclined plane -made with fascines. In its rear was a very well-constructed -magazine made with gabions, and covered -with earth-works. The sides were supported with -stockade and fascine. The merlon was sustained by -flanking so clumsy that the range of the deep embrasures -was quite small. Its object must have been to -bring ships to, but the reduced size of the guns as -shown by the houses built over them—if there were -any guns underneath—each crack being carefully -stopped—would do little damage.</p> - -<p>Not far from here are some wayside praying machines, -and a cemetery in which several of the poor -fellows of the “Vandalia” were interred. On the -occasion of their burial by their messmates, preceded -by drum and fife, the streets were lined on either side -by the Japanese police, who kept every avenue clear.</p> - -<p>The Japanese had a bazar arranged at the place at -which we landed, where a number of purchases were -made by the squadron, and the officials saw more silver -dollars than during their whole previous lifetime.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_308">308</span></p> - -<p>There are supposed to be twenty thousand hairy -kuriles on the island of Yeso, though we did not see -any of them, there being none in Hakodadi during -our stay. The officers of the Southampton, which -vessel was sent around to Volcano bay to make a reconnoissance, -enjoyed the opportunity of taking a -look at the Orsons or Esaus.</p> - -<p>On the last day of May, after we had entertained -the Japanese authorities aboard with the pleasant -attitudinizing of “Jim Brown,” and songs Ethiopan, -the Macedonian left for Simoda, taking a look at the -Japanese penal island of Fatisisio on the way, if the -weather would permit, and the Vandalia was sent -to Shanghae, China, by the way of the Japan sea, to -relieve the Plymouth, that had been looking after -American interests during the rebel-fights at that -place.</p> - -<p>The long-expected functionaries from Yedo did not -reach Hakodadi until the 1st of June. The distance -they had to come, including the passage across the -straits, in a direct line, was about four hundred miles, -and yet they had been fifty days in making the journey. -The next day after their arrival it was in contemplation -to have a military <i>function</i> with sailors, -music, marines, and artillery ashore, but continued -rain prevented it.</p> - -<p>The Russians, who hitherto had no port on the -eastern side of their empire contiguous to north -China, had been compelled to carry on their tea<span class="pagenum" id="Page_309">309</span>trade -by inland caravans that had been stopped -by the insurgent fights, and who could only send -supplies to their posts of Sitka and Petropaulofski, -near the Ochotsk sea, by Cape Horn, had, under -Count Muravieff, boldly seized on the mouth and -fine harbor of the river Amoor, in the Tartar territory, -and fortified it. As the position was weakened -by the river emptying into the channel of Tartary, -Muravieff, to make assurance doubly sure, had seized -that too.</p> - -<p>Intelligence of these doings having reached Yedo, -one of the deputies at Hakodadi, Hirayama Kenziro, -was on his way to Saghalien to find out whether the -Russians were not coming the filibuster Chowstoff on -them again.</p> - -<p>These functionaries made some of their characteristic -communications to the commodore:—</p> - -<div class="less"> - -<p>In the paper, sent his Excellency this morning, it was stated, -that we had received orders from Yedo to go to Karafto; that on the -road we heard, that your ships were at Hakodadi, and as the consultations -at Yokohama were not fully known on these distant frontier -places, there might some misunderstandings arise, and so we came -here especially to see you. If there are any points connected with -the treaty, which need deliberation and settlement, we desire that you -will let us know them.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>With regard to going through the streets and seeing shops and -houses shut, with neither women nor children in their ways, let it be -here observed, that at Yokohama this very matter was plainly spoken -of by Moriyama, the interpreter at that place. The customs of our -country are unlike yours, and the people have been unused to see -persons from foreign lands; though the authorities did what they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_310">310</span> -could to pacify them, and teach them better, they still were disinclined -to believe, and many absconded or hid themselves.</p> - -<p>If the commodore will recall to mind, the day, when he took a -ramble at Yokohama, in which some of us accompanied him, he will -recollect, that in the villages and houses we hardly saw a woman, -during the whole walk. If he saw more of them at Simoda as he -went about, it was because there the people were gradually accustomed -to the Americans, and their fears had been allayed, so that they -felt no dread.</p> - -<p>On these remote frontiers, many hundred miles from Yedo, the -usages of the people are so fixed, that they are not easily influenced -and altered; but pray, how can the inhabitants here think of regarding -the Americans with inimical feelings? Even when they see their -officers, with the sight of whom they are not familiar, they also run -aside, and as if for fear, they seek to escape us. It is the custom of -our country, that officers should accompany visiters about; a custom -not to be so soon changed. Still the disposition of the men here, is -ingenuous, brave, upright, and good; and that of the women retiring -and modest—not gazing at men as if without bashfulness. Such -characteristics and such usages must be considered as estimable, and -we think that you also would not dislike them.</p></div> - -<p>There is a spring near the town, the water of which -is strongly impregnated with sulphur, and supposed -to be highly medicinal; but what of thy various supplies, -O Hakodadi! An egg, like Cæsar’s wife, -should be above suspicion. The number gotten by -our mess, like the swords of the clan of Lochiel, was -“a thousand;”—the good ones, were “one.” Hakodadi, -in Japanese, is “box-eating house;” in American -memory it is questionable eggs.</p> - -<p>On the 3d of June, the Powhatan and the Mississippi -started on their return to Simoda: we looked -upon the departure from Hakodadi as the culmina<span class="pagenum" id="Page_311">311</span>ting -point of the cruise. When we reached the entrance -to the harbor, a sudden and dense fog settled -on us—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">“The mist-like banners clasp’d the air,</div> - <div class="verse">As clouds with clouds embrace.”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>We ran a little distance, whistling for the want of -sight, but at the fog signal of one gun from the flag-ship, -came to anchor. In an hour the fog lifted like -a blanket, and opened like a funnel, when both steamers, -with a stiff wind that enabled them also to make -sail, ran out of the straits.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_312">312</span></p> - - - - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV.</h2> - - -<p>After a monotonous run of four days, <i>Foogee</i>, -like a colossal cenotaph to dead beauty, showed far -up before us, and in three hours we were again at anchor -in Simoda harbor. We learned, that the commissioners -of the treaty were there awaiting the return -of the commodore; that Simoda by imperial -edict had been declared an imperial city; that Mimasaka-no-kami, -prince of Mimasaka, had been appointed -first, and Tsusuki Suruga-no-kami, prince of -Suruga, had been appointed second governor of the -place; also that the last-named, and Takeiro Utsi -Seitaro, imperial financier and member of the board -of revenue, had been added to the number of commissioners.</p> - -<p>Conferences with those functionaries were held in -the temple ashore, and the following articles as additional -to those of the treaty of the 31st of March -were agreed to:—</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_313">313</span></p> - -<div class="less"> - -<p class="hang"> -<i>Additional regulations, agreed to between Commodore Matthew C. Perry, -special envoy to Japan from the United States of America, and Hayashi -Daigaku-no-kami; Ido, Prince of T’sus-sima; Izawa, Prince -of Mimasaki; Tsudzuki, Prince of Suruga; Udono, member of the -board of revenue; Take-no-uchi Sheitaro, and Matsusaki Michitaro, -commissioners of the Emperor of Japan, on behalf of their respective -governments.</i></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Article I.</span>—The imperial governors of Simoda will place watch -stations wherever they deem best, to designate the limits of their -jurisdiction; but Americans are at liberty to go through them, unrestricted, -within the limits of seven Japanese ri, or miles; and those -who are found transgressing Japanese laws may be apprehended by -the police and taken on board their ships.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Article II.</span>—Three landing places shall be constructed for the -boats of merchant-ships and whale-ships resorting to this port; one -at Simoda, one at Kakizaki, and the third at the brook lying southeast -of Centre Island. The citizens of the United States will, of -course, treat the Japanese officers with proper respect.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Article III.</span>—Americans, when on shore, are not allowed access -to military establishments or private houses without leave; but they -can enter shops and visit temples as they please.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Article IV.</span>—Two temples, the Rioshen at Simoda, and the -Yokushen at Kakizaki, are assigned as resting-places for persons in -their walks, until public houses and inns are erected for their convenience.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Article V.</span>—Near the Temple Yokushen, at Kakizaki, a burial-ground -has been set apart for Americans, where their graves and -tombs shall not be molested.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Article VI.</span>—It is stipulated in the treaty of Kanagawa, that -coal will be furnished at Hakodadi; but as it is very difficult for the -Japanese to supply it at that port, Commodore Perry promises to -mention this to his government, in order that the Japanese government -may be relieved from the obligation of making that port a coal -depot.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Article VII.</span>—It is agreed that henceforth the Chinese language<span class="pagenum" id="Page_314">314</span> -shall not be employed in official communications between the two -governments, except when there is no Dutch interpreter.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Article VIII.</span>—A harbor-master and three skilful pilots have -been appointed for the port of Simoda.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Article IX.</span>—Whenever goods are selected in the shops, they -shall be marked with the name of the purchaser and the price agreed -upon, and then be sent to the Goyoshi, or government office, where -the money is to be paid to Japanese officers, and the articles delivered -by them.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Article X.</span>—The shooting of birds and animals is generally forbidden -in Japan, and this law is therefore to be observed by all Americans.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Article XI.</span>—It is hereby agreed that five Japanese ri, or miles, -be the limit allowed to Americans at Hakodadi, and the requirements -contained in Article I. of these regulations, are hereby made -also applicable to that port within that distance.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Article XII.</span>—His Majesty the Emperor of Japan is at liberty -to appoint whoever he pleases to receive the ratification of the treaty -of Kanagawa, and give an acknowledgment on his part.</p> - -<p>It is agreed that nothing herein contained shall in any way affect -or modify the stipulations of the treaty of Kanagawa, should that be -found to be contrary to these regulations.</p> - -<p>In witness whereof, copies of these additional regulations have -been signed and sealed in the English and Japanese languages by -the respective parties, and a certified translation in the Dutch language, -and exchanged by the commissioners of the United States -and Japan.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Simoda, Japan</span>, June 17, 1854.</p> - -<p class="right"> -<span class="gap2r">M. C. PERRY,</span><br /> - -<i>Commander-in-Chief of the U. S. Naval Forces, East India,<br /> -China, and Japan Seas, and Special Envoy to Japan</i>. -</p></div> - -<p>The question of port regulations and pilotage was -also mooted and a paper prepared and agreed to certifying:—</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_315">315</span></p> - -<div class="less"> - -<p>That Yohatsi, Hikoyemon, and Dshirobe, had been appointed Pilots -for American vessels entering or departing from the port of Simoda, -and,</p> - -<p>That the following rates for pilotage had been established by the -proper authorities, viz.:—</p> - -<div class="center small"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td class="tdl">For vessels drawing over eighteen American feet</td><td class="tdr">$15 00</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl">For vessels drawing over thirteen and less than eighteen feet</td><td class="tdr">$10 00</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl">For vessels drawing under thirteen feet</td><td class="tdr">$5 00</td></tr> -</table></div> - -<p>These rates shall be paid in gold or silver coin, or its equivalent in -goods; and the same shall be paid for piloting vessels out, as well as -into port.</p> - -<p>When vessels anchor in the outer roads and do not enter the inner -harbor, only half the above rates of compensation shall be paid to -the pilots.</p></div> - -<p>As the Japanese in all their interviews, and in -their last stipulations, had manifested a preference -for articles of compact to be in the Dutch language -for a mutually clear understanding, rather than in -their own, or the Chinese, the above was also prepared -in Dutch by the consent of the American <i>opperbevelhebber</i>:—</p> - -<div class="less"> - -<p>Dit dient on te verklaren, dat Yohatsi, Hikoyemon, en Dsirobe -benoemd zyn als loodsen voor schepenvan de Vereenigde Staten de -haven van Simoda binnenkomende, of uitgaande; en dat het loon -voor de loodsen door de bevoegde overheid is vastgesteld geworden -als volgt:</p> - - - -<div class="center small"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td class="tdl">Voor schepen over 18 Amerikaansche voeten diep in het water</td><td class="tdr">$15 00</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl">Voor schepen over 13 en minder dan 18 voeten diep</td><td class="tdr">$10 00</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl">Voor schepen under 13 Am: voeten diep</td><td class="tdr">$5 00</td></tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Dit loon zal betaald worden in gouden of zilveren munt of met -eene gelyke waarde in goederen; en hetzelfde zal betaald worden -voor het binnen komen als wel als voor het uitgaan.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_316">316</span></p> - -<p>Als schepen in den buitenhaven ankeren er niet naar binnen gaan, -zal alleen de helft van de hierboven vastgestelde loonen worden betaald.</p> - -<p class="right"> -<span class="gap4r"><i>Op last van den Opperbevelhebber</i>,</span><br /> -<span class="smcap gap2r">Silas Bent</span>,<br /> -<span class="gap4r"><i>Liutenant Adjudant</i>.</span></p> - -<p><i>Goedgekeurd</i></p> - -<p class="right"> -<span class="smcap gap2r">M. C. Perry</span>,<br /> -<i>Opperbevelhebber van de Oorlogsmagt van de Vereenigde Staten</i><br /> -<span class="gap2r"><i>in de zeeen van Oost Indie, China, en Japan</i>.</span></p> - -<p class="pind"><i>Eene ware vertaling</i>,<br /> -<span class="smcap gap4">A. L. C. Portman</span>.</p> - -<p>V. S. Stoom Fregat Mississippi,<br /> -Simoda, Japan den 22sten Juny, 1854. -</p></div> - -<p>It may be that the veneration, in which the memory -of Iyeyas, is held by the Japanese, had much to do -with the making of the treaty. Notwithstanding -this Iyeyas, charged with the guardianship of the son -of Taico, who was the husband of his granddaughter, -usurped his powers and seized the ziogoonship for -himself, still, barring his perfidy, he may be considered -the great Lycurgus of Japan. His laws and -influence endured longer than those of the ruler of -Sparta. During his usurpation he took the names of -Daifusama and Ongonchio, and with the honors that -wait on success, about which it boots nothing to inquire,—at -his death he was <i>deified</i> by impotent ziogoonship. -Such was the reverence, in which Iyeyas was -and still is held, with a people, in whose annals, a -century is spoken of as yesterday, that his will was -not only law, but any wish, that he was known to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_317">317</span> -have expressed, became sacred. He it was who first -granted the privilege of intercourse with the Dutch: -and that nation, instead of submitting to acts which -would cause any cheeks to tingle, but those of great -moral obliquity or meerschaum stupidity—instead -of submitting to the durance vile of Dezima, and -trampling upon the symbol of a Savior’s sufferings—had -it in their power to exact anything, by expressing -a wish or determination to leave their fan-shaped -prison factory: but they are old fogies, and -their course shows, that to stupidity they add stultification.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_317f.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">DEZIMA.</div> -</div> - -<p>The contempt for mercantile pursuits, and the revenue -derived therefrom, ascribed by the Dutch writers, -to the “Japonicadom” of Japan, is all leather and -prunella. The exchequer of the princes at times, is exceedingly -limited and they are willing at such times to -get funds and a wife, by taking the daughter of some -wealthy merchant as <i>one</i> of their better halves. The -<i>quid pro quo</i> to the father, for the dimes, that the -patrician son-in-law may take from his coffers, is the -privilege of wearing his coat-of-arms on the sleeve of -his garments.</p> - -<p>But I have wandered from Iyeyas. This apotheosized -usurper, enjoined upon his people to have -nothing to do with Europeans, and our country not -being known at the time of this injunction, and of -course not included in such a designation, the hermetics -may have thought, they could make a mere treaty<span class="pagenum" id="Page_318">318</span> -of amity (and not of commerce, as has been stated), -without mental reservation, with the United States. -Then, too, the Japanese have an intelligent and excessive -curiosity upon all subjects of information, and -they contend, that inventions and discoveries are -made now in such quick succession, that no nation -may keep pace with them, that has not access to the -world.</p> - -<p>While it must remain on record, that as the Americans -were the first to deny one cent of tribute, and -put an end to Tripolitan piracy, they were also the -first to break down the unsocial barrier, which the -“kingdom of the virgin of the sun” had hedged itself -with, yet the Japanese have now declared their purpose -to make treaties, with all nations similar to the -one made with the United States, and they have since -done so with the English through Sir James Sterling, -though his compact is not as good as that of the -Americans—the statements of the London press to -the contrary, because it contains no clause at once -granting to them any privilege, which any other nation -may obtain from the Japanese.</p> - -<p>The Japanese were much concerned about the siege -of Silistria, and knowing the vulnerability of their -country, Russia from her proximity to them, is the -great bug-bear. They were told by the English at -Nangasaki, that the French were also coming up -there, and knowing that these two nations, and that -of Chowstoff were at war, they were much concerned<span class="pagenum" id="Page_319">319</span> -for fear, these enemies should meet and have a fight in -their waters, and for the purpose of preserving and -securing the inviolability and neutrality of their -country effectually, they make treaties with all the -parties, <i>maugre</i> the injunction of the great Iyeyas, -and their declarations to us of a few months before.</p> - -<p>The Japanese were to have had a bazar opened at -Simoda on our return from Hakodadi, when our officers -might procure the <i>curios</i> of Japanese lacquer, -porcelain, crape, &c., but they were quite dilatory in -getting it ready, and urged as the cause, the non-arrival -of some junks from Osacca (pronounced like -the city of Oaxaca in “Maheco,” or Mexico), the seaport -of Meaco. In the meantime, at the temple Leosenthsi, -daily conferences were held between some -financial officers from Yedo, the first lieutenant-governor, -Kewakawa Kahei, and second lieutenant -governor, Isa Sintshiro, first and second presidents -of the board of revenue, on the part of the Japanese, -and Pursers William Speiden of the Mississippi, and -J. C. Eldridge of the Powhatan, on the part of the -United States, to settle the very important question -of the relative value of the coins and currency of the -two countries. The result was anything but satisfactory.</p> - -<p>The Japanese commenced by stating that the <i>tael</i> -was their decimal basis, in their system of weights -and measures. As one of our cents was ten mills, so -one of their <i>taels</i> is ten <i>mace</i>. Next to the <i>tael</i> comes<span class="pagenum" id="Page_320">320</span> -the <i>canderine</i>, then the <i>cash</i>. But this is as to <i>weights</i>. -Their monetary system, while adopting the same -nomenclature, is very different. The coin denominated -a <i>tael</i> with them is equal to 1,000 cash; a <i>tael -weight</i> of silver, is equal to two <i>taels</i>, and five canderines, -of currency; or 2.25 tael coin, or 2,250 cash. -A tael <i>weight</i> of gold is equal to 19 <i>taels</i>, or 19,000 -<i>cash</i>.</p> - -<p>They had no means of assaying the American, -Mexican, and Spanish dollar, but presuming them all -to be of good silver, they proceeded to determine the -relative value with their coins by <i>weight</i>; a silver -dollar was found to be, by this standard, 7.12 mace—equivalent -to a little over 1,600 <i>cash</i>. Our twenty -dollar goldpiece was of 8.8 mace weight, and estimating -the mace weight of gold at 1,900 <i>cash</i>, the piece -was deemed by them equal in value to 16,720 <i>cash</i>, or -$10.45 of our money. This made the gold dollar -worth fifty-two cents; and silver to bear the proportion -to gold of 1 to 8.44.</p> - -<p>But little is known of the metaliferous history of -Japan, further than its territory, in many places, is -very auriferous, and that the mining of gold is an -imperial monopoly. The Japanese founded their valuation -by the price of bullion as regulated by their -law or imperial decree, being assured that as long as -Japan was excluded from all social and commercial -intercourse with other nations, and formed a little -world of its own, that a system of this kind might be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_321">321</span> -carried on, without prejudice to the rights of any; -the Japanese government by putting a fictitious value -on their coin, or adopting the system of seignorage, -no doubt did so to take away the motive and inducement -for the exportation of their specie for purposes -of profit. Their great philosopher, <i>Arai Trikayo-no-kami</i>, -compared the mineral production of a country -to its frame and bones, and the products of the soil -to the flesh of the body, which should always be in -due proportion. The bones, he said, once removed, -could not be replaced. In addition to an adherence -to this doctrine, it has been a belief among the Japanese -ever since their intercourse with the Portuguese, -who showed particular avidity for the procurement -of their bullion, that it was the policy of foreigners to -drain Japan of this resource, that it might fall an -easier prey to conquest when thus impoverished.</p> - -<p>The monetary system of Japan will require such -almost radical alteration, that it forms their objection, -and presents the greatest hinderance to commercial -intercourse with others. The non-exportation of -bullion, must render trade a very difficult thing, and -would have the effect, as at Nangasaki with the Dutch -and Chinese, of making the government banker for -both parties to a bargain, in buying and selling, and -all payments and receipts to pass through the hands -of its officers.</p> - -<p>The government of Japan is now one of progress; -and they admit their willingness to make improve<span class="pagenum" id="Page_322">322</span>ments -in it; but these improvements must not be hurried -ones, but with due foresight and proper precaution—slowly -and gradually; fearing, to use their -simile, that unaccustomed to light, too much of its -glare at one time, would dazzle and produce blindness.</p> - -<p>After the survey of the harbor of Simoda, buoys -were placed upon the rocks discovered, surmounted -with poles from which waved little flags that we had -made; and on one side of the entrance to the harbor -had been placed a large sign to indicate the locality -of a dangerous rock that lies in mid-channel of the -entrance. The Japanese objected to the presence of -these flags, put there by us, on the grounds that it -looked as if we had taken possession of the place, -and on their promising to keep their places filled -with their little customhouse-flag, they were permitted -to remove ours.</p> - -<p>They furnished a sample of their coal, which was -brought aboard in hampers. It was from the interior, -and mere surface coal, they not having any knowledge -of how it should be mined. They might be able to -furnish it at thirty dollars per ton: it could be landed -there from the United States or England for twenty-five -dollars. When they acquire the knowledge of -working their mines, and have the roads to convey it -to the seaboard, it may be different.</p> - -<p>Here, as at Hakodadi, after paying for them, -stones of the requisite size were procured for the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_323">323</span> -Washington monument. Two of their long, sharp, -copper-fastened pine-boats, with their peculiar sculls, -ordered to be made previously, being completed, were -hoisted on board of the storeship Southampton to be -sent to the United States. Our band performed in -the large temple-yard ashore. The governor of the -place allowed the poorer classes to come within the -enclosure, and the attention and delight with which -they listened, and their asking permission to present -the musicians with fruit, showed that they were both -fonder and had more appreciation of pleasant strains -than the stolid Chinaman, who acknowledges no -music save his horrible nasal screech, or stupid tom-tom.</p> - -<p>A theatrical performance was given on board which -was attended by the commissioners. The body of the -marine, Williams, was brought from Yokohama in a -Japanese boat in charge of some of his messmates, -and re-interred near the poor fellow killed on the -Powhatan, in the spot set apart in the Kakizaki temple -ground, for an American cemetery.</p> - -<p>On the longest day in the year, the 21st of June, -the bazar so long looked for, was announced ready. -The articles were arranged in the temple Leosenthsi, -money changing in a temple being a small thing with -the Japanese. The quantity of articles exposed, were -not at all proportioned to the number who wished to -purchase, and there was much disappointment. The -Japanese made the excuse that they had not sufficient<span class="pagenum" id="Page_324">324</span> -time allowed them for the making of articles. The -commodore first visited the place, and found the articles -ticketed with excessive prices; particularly when -seventeen cents per day may be regarded as the -average price of Japanese labor. He intimated to -the commissioners his displeasure at this, but these -functionaries, who had no doubt thus fixed things, -very adroitly gave it to be understood that the reduction -of the prices of things at the vendue was a matter -rather below their position. The method in the -madness of these official gentry was no doubt this: -there were a number of articles in this bazar similar -to those presented by their government to ours at -Yokohama, and by affixing these high prices they -thought to give increased value to the others, in our -eyes.</p> - -<p>It was determined to dispose of the articles by lottery, -so that all might procure something. They were -principally crapes and silks, and specimens of porcelain -and lacquered ware. The first-named fabrics, -I shrewdly suspect, may not have been of Japanese -manufacture, but probably were sent from Chapoo in -China, by the junks to Loo-Choo, and thence in their -own to Japan. The amount of silks and crapes of the -finest texture made in their own country is not very -great, and no doubt entirely consumed by the higher -castes. Siebold says, that their most beautiful silks are -woven by high-born criminals, who are confined upon -a small, rocky, unproductive island, deprived of their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_325">325</span> -property, and obliged to pay for the provisions with -which they are supplied by sea, with the produce of -their manual labor; and that the exportation of -these silks is prohibited.</p> - -<p>The Japanese porcelain is of the purest, and surpasses -in delicacy and transparency any that France -and England can offer. The finest, with little raised -images upon it, it is said, is made of a peculiar clay, -found in the vicinity of Meaco, and which is now -nearly exhausted. Out of little cups made of this -ware, the saki is drunk.</p> - -<p>The specimens of lacquered ware, consisting of -cabinets, bowls, cups, trays, and despatch boxes, of -different hues, were of great beauty, and put many -of us out of conceit with our purchases of similar -things of the Chinese. A most delicate-hued red appeared -to be most prized by the Japanese, but the -American taste was for the black and a rich maroon -color.</p> - -<p>The process of lacquering is represented as being -a slow and tedious one. The workmen engaged over -the lacquer in a boiling state, have their nostrils protected -from its fumes. The varnish is the resinous -product of a shrub called <i>verosino-ki</i>, or varnish-plant, -and requires a tedious preparation to fit it for use. -The coloring matter is mixed with it, by a long-continued -rubbing on a copper plate; and the operation -of lacquering is as tedious as the preliminaries. -Five different coats, and sometimes more, are put<span class="pagenum" id="Page_326">326</span> -on the article, suffered to dry, and then finely pummiced, -until the lacquer acquires the requisite softness -and brilliancy. Mother-of-pearl shells are inlaid -and subjected to the same polishing process. The -lacquering once thoroughly dry, it is impervious to -the action of liquid heat, and although not a very -pleasant idea to us, who are accustomed to the use -of china-ware, the Japanese partake of hot soups and -other dishes from vessels thus made. Boiling water -may be poured upon the Japanese lacquer with impunity.</p> - -<p>The tea of Japan has been represented by some -writers as being superior to that of China, but what -we saw at the entertainment, was not at all comparable -to that of Cathay. Before the warm water is -poured on them, the leaves have a very coarse appearance, -and from the tea when made there arises -not that delightful aroma that salutes the nostrils -when you drink the fine beverage at Acow’s in Canton; -indeed, they are no doubt indebted to China for -the finest teas they drink, and perhaps the finest silks -they wear.</p> - -<p>One does not observe, in going about in Japan, the -propensity for street-gambling which marks the towns -of China—from the juvenile pig-tail playing with the -vendor for the fifth of an orange, upward. The Japanese -appear more elevated than this. When you notice -playing it is generally in the house, and not gaming, -but with a board and pieces resembling our chess. It<span class="pagenum" id="Page_327">327</span> -was difficult to acquire much knowledge of the contest -by overlooking; indeed, the contestants generally -desisted very perversely during our presence. -Our fleet-surgeon, Dr. Daniel S. Green, however, with -his taste for chess, and an obstinacy of study which -marks his investigation of every subject which he -undertakes, deciphered the game of the Japanese, and -this is the doctor’s account of it, from the best information -he could obtain:—</p> - -<p>“The Japanese game of Sho-ho-ye corresponds to -our game of chess. This game is played by two persons, -with forty pieces (twenty on either side), and -upon a chequer-board of eighty-one squares-nine on -each side. The board is of one uniform color, though -the square might be colored, as with us, for the sake -of convenience. The pieces are also of one uniform -color, as they are used (at pleasure) by either party, -as his own, after being captured from the adversary. -They are of various sizes, are long and wedge-shaped, -being at the same time sharpened from side to side, -in front, and the name of each piece is inscribed upon -it—both the original and the one assumed upon being -reversed—(as below). Each player distinguishes -his men, or pieces by always having the pointed and -thin end forward. But they would be more readily -known if the back parts of all were painted with -some decided and striking color, as that part of his -own men is seen by each player only, and if the -fronts of all the men were painted of some other<span class="pagenum" id="Page_328">328</span> -color, as that part of the adversary’s piece is seen by -either player only. They are laid flat upon the board -(front forward), and thus their names are plainly visible. -They capture, as in chess, by occupying the -places of the captured pieces. The king, Oho-shio, -being the chief piece, can not remain in check—and -when check-mated the game is lost.</p> - -<p>“The pieces are named, and are placed upon the -board as follows:—</p> - -<p>“Oho-shio (king)—centre square, first row.</p> - -<p>“Kin-shio (gold), or chief counseller—upon first -row, and on either side of Oho-shio.</p> - -<p>“Gin-shio (silver, or sub-counseller)—upon first -row, and one on each square next outside Kin-shio.</p> - -<p>“Kiema (flying-horse)—upon first row, and one -on each square next outside Gin-shio.</p> - -<p>“Kioshia (fragrant chariot)—one upon each corner -square, first row.</p> - -<p>“Hishia (flying chariot)—on second square, second -row, right side of the board.</p> - -<p>“Kakuko (the horn)—on second square, second -row, left side of the board.</p> - -<p>“Ho-hei (the soldiery)—on all the nine squares -of the third row.</p> - -<p>“The moves and powers of the pieces are as below, -only noting that in capturing there is no deviation -from them, as with us in the case of pawns.</p> - -<p>“<i>Oho-shio</i> moves and takes on one square in any -direction.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_329">329</span></p> - -<p>“<i>Kin-shio</i> as the Oho-shio, except that he can not -move diagonally backward.</p> - -<p>“Neither of the above are ever reversed or acquire -different powers; but all the pieces below may be -reversed (at the option of the player) when they -move <i>to</i> and <i>from</i> any square in any of the adversary’s -first three rows, and they do thereby acquire -different powers, as well as different names.</p> - -<p>“<i>Gin-shio</i> moves and takes as the <i>Oho-shio</i>, except -that he can not move directly to either side, or directly -backward. When he is reversed, or turned -over, he becomes a <i>Gin-Nari-Kin</i>, and acquires all -the powers (and those alone) of the <i>Kin-shio</i>.</p> - -<p>“<i>Kiema</i> has the move of our knight, except that he -is strictly confined to two squares forward and one -laterally, and can in no case make more than four -moves. When he is reversed he becomes a <i>Kiema-Nari-Kin</i>, -with all the powers (and those alone) of -the <i>Kin-shio</i>.</p> - -<p>“<i>Kioshia</i> moves directly forward <i>only</i>, but that may -be any number of steps. He may be reversed up on -either of the first three rows of the adversary, and -then becomes a <i>Kioshia-Nari-Kin</i>, with all the powers -(and those alone) of the <i>Kin-shio</i>.</p> - -<p>“<i>Hishia</i> has the entire power of our castle, and -when he is reversed he assumes the name of <i>Rioho</i> -(the dragon), and acquires, in addition to his former -moves, all those of the <i>Oho-shio</i>.</p> - -<p>“<i>Kakuko</i> has the entire powers of our bishop, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_330">330</span> -when reversed, assumes the-name of <i>Riome</i> (the -dragoness), and acquires, in addition to his former -moves, all those of the <i>Oho-shio</i>.</p> - -<p>“<i>Ho</i> moves forward one step only at a time, and -may be reversed upon either of the first three rows -of the adversary; when so reversed, he becomes a -<i>Ho-Nari-Kin</i>, and acquires all the powers of the -<i>Kin-shio</i>.</p> - -<p>“Besides the preceding moves and powers, any piece -which has been captured may be replaced upon the -board, at the discretion of the player—as follows, -viz.: when it is his move, instead of moving one of -his men he can replace any one of the captured pieces -upon any unoccupied square whatever, observing to -keep that side up which it was entitled to originally; -but it may be reversed at any move thereafter if <i>to</i> -or <i>from</i> any square in the before-mentioned first three -rows of the adversary—and observing, further, that -he can not replace a <i>Ho</i> (or pawn) on any column -upon which there is already one of his own, i.e., he -can not double a <i>Ho</i> (or pawn).</p> - -<p>“It may be further stated, that no piece can pass -over the head of any other piece in its move, except -the <i>Kiema</i>.”</p> - -<p>Preparations were made for taking what was then -thought to be our final departure from the Japanese -empire. The commodore had transferred his flag -from the Powhatan to the Mississippi, like Byron, -<i>not precisely</i> because he ever could write an address<span class="pagenum" id="Page_331">331</span> -to the ocean, upon whose bosom his stereotyped -speeches say he has wasted the dearest action of -“some forty years of <i>my</i> life,” but because Byron had -a weakness at Pisa for some mastiffs, cats, pea-fowls, -&c.; and when the American opperbevelhebber again -had his broad pennant floating over the Mississippi, -her decks were ornamented with Tray, Blanche, and -Sweetheart, in the shape of Japanese dogs, presented -him, with pug-nosed, billiard-balled heads, and eyes so -projecting and divided, that some unfortunate estrangement -seemed to have taken place between them. The -poop-deck was ornamented with no-tailed Japanese -cats, or their spinal columns extending to the point -which would have pleased Lord Monboddo, while -under the break of the poop, in cages, swung beautiful -pheasants, mandarin ducks, and some graceful -singing-birds.</p> - -<p>Agreeably to instructions from the government to -make inquiries as to some of our unfortunate countrymen -who were supposed either to have been lost at -sea, or to be held in captivity on the island of Formosa, -it was ordered that the Macedonian should be -sent to the harbor of Keelong for that purpose, accompanied -by the Supply; also to ascertain the probability -of the procurement of coal in that vicinity, and -its proximity to the seashore. This done, the Macedonian -was to proceed to Manilla, to leave there the -three “Sally Baboo” men picked up by the “Southampton” -at sea, with the American consul, that they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_332">332</span> -might be sent back to their native land, which, by the -chart, was not very far distant from Luzon.</p> - -<p>On the 23d of June the Mississippi was gotten under -way, and ran out to anchor in what might be -waggishly termed the “outer harbor” of Simoda, a -miserable roadstead off which a low rock island can -not keep the sea, where all next day we rolled and -wallowed.</p> - -<p>On Sunday (we left Japan each time on Sunday) -the 25th of June, signal was made for the ships to -weigh anchor. The Powhatan took the Southampton -in tow, and ran out of the port of Simoda. The -Macedonian and Supply endeavored to do the same, -but the wind proving baffling, they did not succeed. -A long string of Japanese boats made fast to the -former and tried to tow her out, but were as successful -as a June-bug tied by a thread would be in trying -to move the boy who held the other end, so the noble -razee had to let go her anchor to avoid going on the -rocks that encase the narrow entrance of the port of -Simoda. The Supply did the same. The Mississippi, -after some delay, and a number of gyrations, -took her departure accompanied by the Powhatan -with the storeship.</p> - -<p>During the day, we were running down the westward -side of the chain of naked islands that extend -to Loo-Choo. At four o’clock, Foogee Yama, from -his cloudy eyry, was seen like an angel’s wing, and -then withdrawn. Well, good-by, Foogee; admiration<span class="pagenum" id="Page_333">333</span> -continued, is the most tiresome of things, and one can -tire of the brilliancy of Burke, with his—“Around -whose base things may moulder, but upon whose -summit eternity must play.”</p> - -<p>On the fourth day of the run, after those charming -incidents of sea-life—sky overhead and water all -around—we were abreast of the island of Oo, which -the severe gale encountered in July, 1853, on our return -from our first visit to Japan, prevented an examination -of, that the correctness of a harbor laid -down on a French chart, might be ascertained. The -ships laid off for three hours, during which time Lieutenants -Maury and Webb went ashore, taking with -them bags of pork and bread. The people on shore -at first appeared quite alarmed at their approach. -Their dress was the same as those of the Loo-Chooans. -Some fowls and potatoes were obtained from them by -giving them some pork and bread in exchange; they -refused money. It is supposed that we are the first -Christian people that ever had communication with -these people; rather an absurd supposition, considering -the charts and surveys that have been made in -those seas by other nations, before we had either the -opportunity or desire to know anything about them.</p> - -<p>The next day, off the Great Loo-Choo island, the -Southampton was cast off, and proceeded to Hong -Kong. That afternoon we saw quite a large ship -ahead. She was coming down before the wind with -studding-sails set. It was thought desirable to speak<span class="pagenum" id="Page_334">334</span> -her, having had no mail intelligence since March, in -the bay of Yedo. Our colors were hoisted, and the -commodore directed a forward-gun to be fired, to attract -attention. The stranger, however, without appearing -to notice it, changed his course and then -changed it again, declining to raise his ensign, and -keeping his nation to himself. Another gun was fired, -still no colors did he show. By this time the two -steamers having come up with him he lay to, and -hoisted English colors. Upon sending a boat to know -what he meant by such conduct, it appeared that he -feared meeting the Russian squadron in that vicinity, -and took us for Russian steamers, and even after -seeing the American ensign, thought it might be designed -to entrap him. The captain expressed regret -for the detention he had occasioned, and by newspapers -from him we had the first intelligence of England -and France having united in hostilities for the -sultan. The ship was the Great Britain, from Shanghae, -with a valuable cargo of teas and silks, for London. -She would have proved a precious prize for -Pontiatine.</p> - -<p>The next day we anchored in the roadstead of -Napa, Loo-Choo. The first intelligence from Captain -Glasson, of the Lexington, was that a seaman from -his ship had been found in the waters of Junk harbor -dead, and expressed the belief that the man had -come to his death by violence. An investigation of -the matter showed that the man had not only been<span class="pagenum" id="Page_335">335</span> -killed by the natives, but that he deserved to have -been killed. The poor Loo-Chooans being very much -frightened about the occurrence, and the local officers -of Napa regarding the offence of the man as a mortifying -disgrace to their country, did not make a true -report of the circumstances to the prince-regent, and -that high functionary, upon a demand being made -upon him by the commodore, himself misled, reported -that the man had fallen into the water when drunk -and been drowned. The commodore demanded a -full investigation according to their laws, though satisfied -at the time that the man Board had been guilty -of a most heinous offence. From this it appeared -that the man had been first stoned by the crowd and -badly wounded, and then fell into the water and was -drowned; after the commission of an offence—to use -the prince-regent’s language—that “All men detest -and are angry at, and would, without thinking, strike -and wound the one guilty of it.” The sentences adjudged -by the Loo-Chooan tribunal, were to deprive -the mayor of Napa of his rank, and the deputy-magistrates -of their offices, for having made erroneous reports -to the regent; Tokisi, the leader of the mob -who stoned, was banished to Pachung Sang for life, -while five others were banished to Taiping San for -eight years.</p> - -<p>The severity of this punishment was very great, and -it is to be regretted that during the session of the -tribunal that decreed it, the commodore resorted to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_336">336</span> -the menace of sending marine-officers ashore to examine -their forts, and then took possession, with some -marines—the United States bullying Loo-Choo! as -Wise said to Bynum, “bullying a fly!” The poor -prince-regent was frightened nearly out of his senses; -he came off himself to the Mississippi with the poor -devil Tokisi, with a halter about his neck, offering to -give him up to American custody, prostrating himself -before the commodore in his cabin—a pitiable spectacle. -He is next addressed by the American “Opperbevelhebber,” -in a communication commencing -“Your Highness.”</p> - -<p>We ascertained from the master’s-mate who had -been left in charge of the invalids and coal-shed -ashore in February, that a few days after our departure -for Japan, the Russian admiral Pontiatine, with -the frigate Diana (since lost by an earthquake at -Simoda), a corvette, and the steamer Vostock, visited -Napa roads, staying some days, during which -time he drilled his men ashore, and grazed his cattle. -He had not then certain intelligence of England and -France having gone to war with his country, but -notwithstanding his assurance of the proximity of -such a thing, as also of superior English and French -naval forces, he generously assisted the English ship -Robena (which had been there to bring the successor -of Dr. Bettelheim) to get off the reef, taking the while, -her cargo of coolies aboard of his own ship.</p> - -<p>On Sunday, the Rev. E. H. Moreton, the successor<span class="pagenum" id="Page_337">337</span> -of Dr. Bettelheim, a pleasant-voiced little preacher, -with mild face and cockney aspiration of the letter <i>h</i>, -read the English church-service, and delivered a discourse -on board of the Mississippi. He had come -with his wife and child from England to dwell in -Napa, as spiritual teacher to a people who are about -as well prepared to receive Christianity, as they were -when his predecessor, six years before, went among -them. The men and officers of the squadron raised -an amount of money for him before leaving.</p> - -<p>The next Sunday on board, a sermon, blasphemous -in character, was preached by a missionary, in which -the American commodore was likened to another -Jesus Christ, and a parallel deliberately instituted -between our Savior’s mission on earth and Commodore -Perry’s mission to Japan. That functionary sat -on the quarter-deck, meanwhile listening to all this -without evincing, so far as any one could perceive, -the slightest displeasure.</p> - -<p>The steamers were coaled from shore by Loo-Chooan -junks, during our stay; the gunner of the Mississippi -was sent to an island, called Reef island, in a -boat, to see whether it was used as a female penal -settlement as had been stated; and we saw the Japanese -junks departing, bearing away the rice of the -island, some to Japan, some to Chapoo in China, -where the sons of the wealthy in Loo-Choo are educated -without cost.</p> - -<p>The American opperbevelhebber seems to have had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_338">338</span> -a “would be a nun, and a wouldn’t be a nun” idea -of the <i>status</i> of Loo-Choo: In a letter to the secretary -of the navy, as found in Senate-Document, No. 34 -of the <span class="smcap">XXXIIId</span> Congress, he first says: “I am -constantly obtaining information confirmatory of the -opinion that <i>Loo-Choo</i>, Meyaco-Sima, and the Oho-Sima -islands, are all dependencies of Japan.”</p> - -<p>On the 18th of June, 1854, he writes: “The opinions -expressed in my despatch, No. 41, <i>have been confirmed</i> -by subsequent observations, and Loo-Choo, it -appears, is in a measure an <i>independent</i> sovereignty, -holding only slight allegiance either to Japan or -China, but preferring rather its relationship to the -<i>latter</i> empire; that the islands stretching from Formosa -to Kiusiu are all under its sovereignty, and are -in such intercourse with the parent island, Great Loo-Choo, -as the imperfect character of their means of -navigation will allow.”</p> - -<p>In this despatch “No. 41,” he says—like Cowper’s -bird perched upon the church-steeple, “What -says he?” “—— and are moreover told that Loo-Choo -is a royal fief of the empire of Japan, though -it is asserted by some writers, that it owes fealty only -to the prince of Satsuma.”</p> - -<p>How does this “confirm” the statements contained -in the despatch of 18th of June, 1854?</p> - -<p>In the Pickwickian Gazette, published in the English -colony of Hong Kong, y’clept “The China Mail,” -of the 27th of July, 1854, the demi-official announce<span class="pagenum" id="Page_339">339</span>ment—of -course in accordance with Secretary Kennedy’s -order—says:—</p> - -<p>“Having been assured by the commissioners at -Yokohama, that Japan exercised no jurisdiction whatever -over Loo-Choo, the commodore proposed making a -treaty with the regent and drew up a sketch of what -he thought it desirable should be established by official -sanction: with some unimportant modifications, -this was accepted.”</p> - -<p>According to Meylan, who was the Dutch opperhoofd, -the president of the factory at Desima, in his -semi-annual audiences with the governor of Nangasaki, -among other things also takes upon himself an -obligation to respect all vessels “belonging to the -Loo-Choo islands, they being subject to Japan.”</p> - -<p>The American opperbevelhebber, however, after -undergoing this pleasing state of uncertainty, thought -he would “make assurance doubly sure, and take a -bond” of the Loo-Chooans; so the following compact -was agreed to, very much on the part of the -effeminate islanders, like the compact of the poor -chicken with the horse in the stable: that if he -didn’t tread on his toes, he wouldn’t tread on his -toes:—</p> - -<div class="less"> - -<p class="hang"> -<i>Compact between the United States and the Kingdom of Loo-Choo. -Signed at Napa, Great Loo-Choo, the 11th day of July, 1854.</i></p> - -<p>Hereafter, whenever citizens of the United States come to Loo-Choo, -they shall be treated with great courtesy and friendship. -Whatever articles these persons ask for, whether from the officers or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_340">340</span> -people, which the country can furnish, shall be sold to them; nor -shall the authorities interpose any prohibitory regulations to the people -selling; and whatever either party may wish to buy, shall be exchanged -at reasonable prices.</p> - -<p>Whenever ships of the United States shall come into any harbor -in Loo-Choo, they shall be supplied with wood and water at reasonable -prices; but if they wish to get other articles, they shall be purchasable -only at Napa.</p> - -<p>If ships of the United States are wrecked on Great Loo-Choo, or -on islands under the jurisdiction of the royal government of Loo-Choo, -the local authorities shall despatch persons to assist in saving -life and property, and preserve what can be brought ashore till the -ships of that nation shall come to take away all that may have been -saved; and the expenses incurred in rescuing these unfortunate persons, -shall be refunded by the nation they belong to.</p> - -<p>Whenever persons from ships of the United States come ashore in -Loo-Choo, they shall be at liberty to ramble where they please, without -hinderance, or having officials sent to follow them, or to spy what -they do; but if they violently go into houses, or trifle with women, -or force people to sell them things, or do other such like illegal acts, -they shall be arrested by the local officers, but not maltreated, and -shall be reported to the captain of the ship to which they belong, for -punishment by him.</p> - -<p>At Tumai is a burial-ground for the citizens of the United States, -where their graves and tombs shall not be molested.</p> - -<p>The government of Loo-Choo shall appoint skilful pilots, who -shall be on the lookout for ships appearing off the island, and if one -is seen coming toward Napa, they shall go out in good boats beyond -the reefs to conduct her into a secure anchorage, for which service -the captain shall pay the pilot, five dollars; and the same for going -out of the harbor beyond the reefs.</p> - -<p>Whenever ships anchor at Napa, the local authorities shall furnish -them with wood at the rate of three thousand six hundred copper -cash per thousand catties; and with water at the rate of six hundred -copper cash (forty-three cents) for one thousand catties, or six barrels -full, each containing thirty American gallons.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_341">341</span></p> - -<p class="hang">Signed in the English and Chinese languages by Commodore <span class="smcap">Matthew -C. Perry</span>, Commander-in-chief of the United States Naval -Forces in the East India, China, and Japan seas, and special envoy -to Japan, for the United States; and by <span class="smcap">Sho Fu-fing</span>, Superintendent -of affairs, (Tsu-li-kwan) in Loo-Choo; and <span class="smcap">Ba Rio-si</span>, -Treasurer of Loo-Choo at Shui, for the government of Loo-Choo, -and copies exchanged this 11th day of July, 1854, or the reign -<span class="smcap">Hien-fung</span>, 4th year, 6th moon, 17th day, at the Town-Hall of -Napa.</p></div> - -<p>On landing to sign this rather singular document, -the customary quantity of “boom-a-laddying” was -indulged in, as per following order:—</p> -<div class="less"> -<ul><li>One large howitzer from the Mississippi.</li> - -<li>One large howitzer from the Powhatan.</li> - -<li>Twenty-four marines from the Mississippi.</li> - -<li>Twenty-four marines from the Powhatan.</li> - -<li>Band of music from the Mississippi.</li> - -<li>Band of music from the Powhatan.</li> - -<li>Each howitzer to be accompanied by a box of fixed ammunition, -and their crews armed with cutlasses.</li> - -<li>The marines with muskets and twenty-four rounds of ball-cartridges.</li> - -<li>The seamen to be dressed in white with straw hats.</li> - -<li>The marines in fatigue summer-dress.</li> - -<li>The officers in white pants, frock-coats, swords, epaulettes, and caps.</li> - -<li>The bandsmen in white.</li> - -<li>Two orderlies with their muskets to be detailed as an escort for the -broad pennant.</li> - -<li>A flag-bearer and two seamen as a guard for the ensign.</li> -</ul></div> - -<p>Our government should pay a little attention to the -fantastic tricks, which its commodorial gentry cut up -in such countries, as Loo-Choo:<span class="pagenum" id="Page_342">342</span> “fixed ammunition,” -“cutlasses,” and “ball-cartridges,” taken ashore among -a people whose forts are disarmed; among whom not -one offensive weapon was noticed after months of -intercourse; and whose nation, in its present condition, -reversing the remark of Chatham, might be -driven with a crutch.</p> - -<p>And then too, two orderlies with muskets escorting -“<i>the</i> broad pennant”—a kind of an ark of the -covenant carried before, and the American “ensign” -playing second fiddle behind!—just imagine such -a procession? It is equal to the swallow-tailed yellow -flag, that I saw one day carried behind a high -functionary, as I passed his procession coming down -from Sheudi.</p> - -<p>If a broad pennant means anything, it means this: -a piece of bunting to designate an admiral’s ship or -boat in squadron sailing, or in harbor: a cynosure -for all the other vessels, because from the ship that -wears it, orders are signaled and dispositions directed; -but when it is taken from a main-truck, or from the -commander-in-chief’s boat, to be boom-a-laddyed on -shore in a procession, it becomes meaningless, if not -ridiculous; a land officer in the field had better fly a -distinct flag over his marquee; and an American -commodore, who leaves his ship to land in an enemy’s -or friend’s country, had better be provided by the -navy department with a kind of “white plume,” like -that of “Harry of Navarre,” or “<i>the</i> broad pennant” -had better be declared an <i>oriflamme</i>; but all true<span class="pagenum" id="Page_343">343</span> -Americans have a weakness, which runs in this wise: -that the stars and stripes, are oriflamme enough.</p> - -<p>But it may be, that the commodore may be allowed -to explain—to give some reason for boom-a-laddying -ashore with his broad pennant, and having a -sword-bearer to walk behind with his trusty blade in -the streets of Simoda. In his notes to the secretary -of the navy, of his second visit to Japan he says:—</p> - -<p>“I have adopted the two extremes—by an exhibition -of great pomp, when it could be properly displayed, -and by avoiding it, when such pomp would -be inconsistent with the spirit of our institutions.”</p> - -<p>This pompatic paragraph appears rather a <i>non sequitur</i>; -unless it can be shown <i>when</i> an exhibition -of great pomp is consistent with the spirit of our institutions.</p> - -<p>The <i>entente cordiale</i> being established with the -“kingdom of Loo-Choo,” presents of agricultural -implements and a hand cotton-gin, were made to the -authorities, who returned air-plants and birds. A -stone from the island was also procured for the Washington -monument.</p> - -<p>The commodore having entertained the regent and -the authorities on board the flag-ship Mississippi with -a supper and Ethiopian performance, the Lexington -sailed for Hong Kong on the 15th, and two days -after—the anniversary of our first departure from -Japan—we bid good-by to the Loo-Chooans, as much, -no doubt, to their delight as our own.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_344">344</span></p> - -<p>In getting off the Amakarimas, the Powhatan -parted company with us, bound for Amoy and Ningpo, -and in four days we had a Chinese pilot on board, -and the next dropped anchor in the harbor of Hong -Kong, China, from whose mail facilities we had been -absent over half a year.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_345">345</span></p> - - - - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV.</h2> - - -<p>Letters: considering the rapid occurrence of events -of moment now-a-days, and the lightning transmission -of intelligence, it was with joy we got letters on our -arrival at Hong Kong, having been for over half a -year, so far as news was concerned, inhumed in a remote -country. The official news was, that we were -ordered home by way of California and South America, -at which all were overjoyed; and the commodore -was granted permission to return to the United -States <i>via</i> Europe, at government expense. Many -a poor fellow got letters that had been waiting for -him in Hong Kong a long time, and at the same time -letters from others of later date, that told that the -writers of the former ones could never write again.</p> - -<p>We found in the harbor the ships of the surveying -squadron under Commodore Ringgold, among which -was the since ill-fated Porpoise.</p> - -<p>There had been no improvement in the intestine -troubles. An American captain had been murdered -by the Chinese; and the dearly-beloved occupants of -the hongs of Canton, feeling insecure in the posses<span class="pagenum" id="Page_346">346</span>sion -of their “filthy lucre”—for if the “chop dollar” -of China is not filthy lucre, I know not what it -is—the Mississippi proceeded to her old anchorage -at Whampoa, and sent men and howitzers, as before, -up to the city. The captain of the American ship -Amity, having been murdered by two of his foreign -crew, the next morning after our arrival through the -intervention of “Judge Lynch,” their bodies were -seen suspended from either yard-arm of their vessel.</p> - -<p>The state of affairs in Canton being deemed imminent, -the little jolly-boat English steamer, called the -Queen, which the commodore had hired and left off -the hongs, previous to our leaving for Japan in January, -ran down and took up another force to the city. -A body of rebels had captured the wealthy and -populous city Fuhshan, about twenty miles from Canton, -and the mandarins were doing nothing to arrest -their progress. One morning, for this purpose, a -detachment of a thousand men under a brigadier, were -quietly taking up their ground, when they were surprised -by a party of rebels, and before they could -seize their arms, some hundreds of them and their -camp-followers were killed, and the rest escaped pell-mell -into the city. The tents, matchlocks, and ammunition, -were all carried off, and the brigadier was -among the missing.</p> - -<p>I had an opportunity during this visit of seeing the -largest fleet of the emperor, which had an immense -number of streamers flying: and also at an early hour<span class="pagenum" id="Page_347">347</span> -of making a visit to the tea-packing establishments -at Honan, whose inmates appeared ready to decamp -at short notice.</p> - -<p>Vessels going down the Pekiang were crowded -with Chinese flying from the place, and the river -steamers were chartered at enormous rates; so that -the total emigration to Macao and Hong Kong was -not much under five thousand, including several men -of distinction, such as the brothers of Heu Chang-kwang, -the provincial treasurer, and their families, -and of Puntingqua and his family, to Macao; and -Howqua and Eesing with their families to Hong -Kong.</p> - -<p>On the 29th of July we were at Hong Kong, and -the 11th of August saw us again at Whampoa, together -with that noble steam-frigate the Susquehanna, -that had not long been back from a very interesting -trip to Nanking.</p> - -<p>On the 15th of August, when taking our final departure -from Whampoa, we saw a Dutch ship fired -upon from a rebel battery; also one of the mandarin -boats, running up powder, but the fleetness of their -sailing, and the bad gunnery of the Chinese, enabled -them to go by unharmed.</p> - -<p>Having to wait the return of the Macedonian with -Captain Abbott, to whom the command of the three -remaining ships was to be transferred, the commodore -fixed September 11th for the day of his departure -by the oriental steamer. In the meantime the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_348">348</span> -Susquehanna, which with the Mississippi, was to make -the long stretch across the Pacific, departed for Simoda, -Japan—on her first and only visit to that -place—towing the Southampton, laden with coal, -intended for the use of the two steamers in their run -from Japan of over three thousand miles to Honolulu. -The storeships Supply and Lexington were also despatched -homeward by the way of the Cape of Good -Hope. It is scarcely necessary to give the state of -affairs in China at the time of the departure of these -ships. The fighting of the Chinese—if fighting it -might be called—continued, and we had reports one -day how the city of <i>Sling-Gin</i> had been captured by -the insurgents, and another day, that the imperialists -still held the city of <i>Gin-Sling</i>.</p> - -<p>The Chinese government insists upon its officers, -saying, when required to perform anything for it, -what the Frenchman told the lady: “Madam, if <i>possible</i>, -it is done already; if <i>impossible</i>, it shall be -done”—though placing no means at their disposal -for accomplishing the desired result.</p> - -<p>The following being so very Chinese, I insert it. -<i>T’sing-ling</i> nor <i>Tae-yung</i> could not prevent the capture -of <i>Woo-chang</i>. On reading the report of its -downfall, the emperor said:<span class="pagenum" id="Page_349">349</span> “It is impossible to -repress my grief and indignation. That Tae-yung, -though charged with two provinces, seems not to have -had a single plan for their defence. Formerly we -deprived him of official rank, with the hope that he -would exert himself and make amends for previous -errors; but lo! he follows his old habits, and has -thus brought disaster on a large portion of the empire; -this is most detestable and abominable. Let -Tae-yung be instantly deprived of office, and handed -over to the direction of Yang-pae. We also order -Yang-pae to hasten to his new appointment, and place -himself at the head of all the troops in those provinces, -in order immediately to exterminate these rebels, -and recover the provincial capital out of their hands; -afterward let him sweep away this pestilence, in -order to fulfil the object for which we have intrusted -him with this great command. Let him also endeavor -to ascertain what has become of all the officers -both civil and military who were formerly stationed -at Woo-chang, and report. Respect this.”</p> - -<p>But the Macedonian having gotten back from Manilla, -the time had arrived when Opperbevelhebber -Perry was to leave in the mail-steamer. This interesting -event took place on the 11th of September, -one day after the date of the great naval-battle of his -Hyperion brother on Lake Erie, and one before the -battle of North Point, and three before the allied -armies landed in the Crimea. Previous to this important -epoch, the <i>American</i> (<i>!</i>) merchants at Canton -addressed him an epistle as characteristic as the -speech of the</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">“—— men of Coventry,</div> - <div class="verse">Who came down to see</div> - <div class="verse">Her gracious majesty!”</div> -</div></div></div> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_350">350</span></p> -<p>This <i>bijou</i> of toadyism had this for a superscription:—</p> - -<p class="center"> -His Excellency Commodore <span class="smcap">Matthew C. Perry</span>,<br /> -<i>Commander-in-Chief of the Naval Forces U. S., in the East India, China,<br /> -and Japan Seas, and late Envoy to Japan, &c., &c., &c.</i><br /> -</p> - -<p>They first acknowledged the promptitude with -which he extended protection to their interests, so -much needed, during his command in those seas.</p> - -<p>“Protection.” Commodore Perry arrived in the -waters in the vicinity of Canton, on the 7th of April, -1853, and on the 27th of the same month he ran up -to Shanghae, and after a short stay there, he bundled -off with all the ships he could to the island of Loo-Choo, -where he lay inert from the 26th of May to -the 2d day of July; and did not return to China until -August. The gentlemen who much do congregate -on the rialto of Canton, address “His Excellency,” -concerning the magnitude of the interests, which requires -protection, and the storeship Supply, like the -other ships, not being required until the next visit -to Japan, she is sent up to lay off the hongs. This -tub to the mercantile whale, satisfied for a time, but -when the period arrived for the return to Japan, -luckily for “His Excellency,” the merchants suggested -the charter of a miserable little English steamer, and -he not regarding it his duty to inform the opium -gentry, that the carronades of the Supply would afford -more protection than the penny-whistle battery -of the jolly-boat steamer, gladly withdrew the needed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_351">351</span> -storeship, and chartered the Queen. The puny craft -when started in Hong Kong harbor, was amusing. -A Chinaman on one wheel-house with a bamboo-pole, -prized the wheel over the “centre,” and four or five -men being required at her “starting-bar,” when they -got her going they did not like to stop her, and she -spun about the harbor like a chicken, <i>minus</i> his head. -The arms of her wheels being wood, before getting -over to Macao she broke off several. Her pop-guns, -only two of which were aside, had perhaps never -been “scaled,”</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">“And like gun well aimed, at duck or plover,</div> - <div class="verse">Bear wide the mark and kick the owner over.”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>As Hon. Humphrey Marshall said, in speaking of -the protection afforded by the American opperbevelhebber:—</p> - -<p>“What are the means? A British steamer of one -hundred and fifty tons, manned by twenty sailors and -ten Chinese, and carrying an armament of four guns -of four-pound calibre each. In the event of a disturbance, -the Queen may suffice to transport the women -and children of American citizens from the city, provided -they reach her decks without molestation; but -to defend the lives or property of American citizens -here in the presence of an invading mob or a band -of robbers, the provision made is not equal to any -exigency whatever.”</p> - -<p>After some vernacular of the shop—he went to -Japan with their “best wishes <i>freighted</i>,”—they in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_352">352</span>dulge -in wonderful erudition about Columbus, De -Gama, Cook, La Perouse, and Magellan, and they -wind up with the pleasant tangible, of requesting his -acceptance of a durable memorial of his visit to -China, as a testimony of the estimation in which they -held his public services and private character.</p> - -<div class="less"> -<p class="right"> -<span class="smcap gap2r">U. S. Flag-ship Mississippi,</span><br /> -<i>Hong Kong</i>, September 7, 1854.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Gentlemen</span>: It is impossible for me to find words sufficiently -expressive of my profound thanks for the very flattering praise which -you, in your prodigal kindness and generosity, have bestowed upon -me in your communication of the 4th instant.</p> - -<p>In the execution of my duties as commander of the East India -squadron, and with special reference to the mission to Japan, I am -unconscious of having done more than might have been expected of -me as a zealous and loyal officer.</p> - -<p>The testimonial of which you speak will be received with the -highest gratification, and my children will be enjoined to treasure it -as a memorial of the many favors their father had received from his -fellow-countrymen in China.</p> - -<p>In separating myself from those with whom I have been so long -and so agreeably associated, I can not but hope that we shall all meet -again in our own happy country; and with this pleasant anticipation, -I subscribe myself, with every feeling of sincere friendship and respect,</p> - -<p class="right"> -Your obliged and most obedient servant,<br /> -<span class="smcap">M. C. Perry</span>.</p></div> - -<p>The “durable memorial” was understood to be a -service of silver, since made in the United States, -and perhaps none the less brilliant because opium -syce may have paid for it; and, as a change must have -come over the commodore’s dream, for on the 9th of -October, 1853, he writes to the secretary of the navy:<span class="pagenum" id="Page_353">353</span> -“The most profitable branch of trade carried on by -many of the Americans, English, and other foreigners, -is of a clandestine character, in violation of the laws -of China and the stipulations of the Cushing treaty; -and it is difficult for a naval commander, in extending -the protection of his ship, to distinguish between the -property engaged in the legal or illegal trade.” And -in concluding the same despatch, he says: “In my -business with Japan, where as yet there are no American -merchants, or diplomatic agents, I have the assurance -of not being interfered with, and shall be -able to act with energy and promptitude, and without -embarrassment, and whether successful or otherwise, -the responsibility will all rest upon myself.”</p> - -<p>Then comes an epistle from four little Malwa and -Patna “tuft-hunters” of Hong Kong, who also like to -make Judy Fitzsimmons of themselves. After giving -“His Excellency” much that is fulsome and adulatory, -they speak of his having opened the “<i>commerce</i>” -of Japan, “not only to us, but to the world.” What -nonsense.</p> - -<p>We have no <i>commercial</i> treaty with Japan, but only -one “of peace and amity,” and strange that the newspapers -will persist in saying so. Mischief may come -of it in inducing some Yankee trader to go there with -an assorted cargo, who will be very apt to have his -labor for his pains.</p> - -<p>But for the seriousness of speech that marked the -presentation to “His Excellency,” by the governor<span class="pagenum" id="Page_354">354</span> -of Rhode Island, on behalf of its general assembly, -of a splendid salver, having on it “in testimony of -their appreciation of his services to his country in -negotiating a treaty of amity <i>and commerce</i> with Japan,” -together with the commodore’s teaching the -heathen <i>the observance of the Sabbath</i>, that worthy -functionary would be deemed waggish.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 11th of September, being -the ninth day, of the ninth moon, of the fourth year -of the reign of Hien-fung, Commodore Matthew Calbraith -Perry left in the English mail-steamer Ganges -for home; the Mississippi and the Macedonian firing -the parting salute, and the men in the rigging giving -three cheers.</p> - -<p>We were to have taken our final leave of the grand, -celestial, central, middle, flowery kingdom, on the -same day, but it stormed, and we did not leave until -the next morning, and few, if any, saw the naked -hills of Hong Kong fade in the distance with regret. -A few hours before us, the poor Porpoise got under -way and left the port—that port to which her sail</p> - -<p> -“Should never stretch again.”<br /> -</p> - -<p>This was the last that was seen of her, and she no -doubt foundered in the typhoon of the 7th of October, -encountered by the Mississippi, which noble old -ship struggled and maintained her existence for mortal -hours under the force of a hurricane, and received -the terrific blows of the infuriated sea more bravely<span class="pagenum" id="Page_355">355</span> -than did the black knight under the pounding of the -stalwart friar—if “aught inanimate” can have bravery, -all honor to thee, old ship! and with more fervency -than blesses the bridge that carries us over, -honor to thee, old ship, again!</p> - -<p>We stood up the Formosa channel, and in nine -days were entering again the harbor of Simoda. -We found here the Susquehanna and the Southampton. -The former vessel left for the Sandwich Islands -on the 24th of September. The stormy season having -commenced in that latitude, it was too rough for -us to commence coaling for several days, from the -storeship. We ascertained that the Susquehanna had -buried Surgeon Hamilton at Simoda, making the third -interment in the contracted American burial-place. -The shafts over the tombs were well proportioned, -the letters of the inscriptions, with the imitative art -of the Mongolian race, cut with exactness, and gilded, -and the cap-stones, an original ornament, seeming -to blend an urn and an acorn.</p> - -<p>Captain Lee, of the Mississippi, with a suite of officers, -made an official call on the lieutenant-governor -of the now imperial city of Simoda, and was received -with marked courtesy, and entertained in the Japanese -style. The little strips resembling fried eel were -as attractive as fried snake, but the crystallized -grapes, with indifferent sugar, were rather palatable. -There was handed around a small berry, not unpleasant -to the taste, resembling the haw cultivated. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_356">356</span> -old Rip Van Winkle—<i>Yemanese Koso</i>—plied his -guests with the little thimbles of imperial saki, that -he might unite with them.</p> - -<p>Captain Lee returned these civilities with a collation -on board of his ship, and treated the Japanese -to the music of the Mississippi’s fine band, of which -they are unaffectedly fond. He had a correspondence -with the authorities relative to the absence of the -spar-buoys which had been placed to mark dangerous -rocks in the harbor. They replied that they had -been washed away by the severe gales preceding our -arrival, but that they would replace them, which -they did.</p> - -<p>During this visit the Japanese displayed much willingness -to trade with us—that is, if trading means -to sell everything you can for Spanish dollars and -takes nothing else in return. There was one instance -only to the contrary. An intelligent engineer of the -ship had a revolver; a Japanese officer wished it very -much. He was told that he could have it for so many -<i>its-evoos</i>, which the penalty for permitting to pass out -of the country was very great. He offered a large -amount in silver dollars. No; at last his cupidity for -the pistol overcame his fear for the consequences, and -he paid for it in the <i>its-evoos</i>, and disappeared over -the side. These were about the only Japanese coins -that were procured during our stay in the country. -Were you to offer one of the barbers of the country, -“whose name is legion,” a piece of silver for one of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_357">357</span> -their cash—the twelfth of a cent—he would be glad -to have it, but the inexorable law is ever before his eyes.</p> - -<p>At Simoda we found a junk bound to Yedo with a -large mortar aboard, purchased from the Dutch; -also the model of an English boat.</p> - -<p>We ascertained, that Kyama Yezimon, under the -permission of the emperor, had built a three-masted -ship on the model of the Southampton, they alleging, -that she was our fastest sailing ship, or made the -shortest trips. Her trial-trip had given them much -satisfaction, up the bay from Uraga. They painted -her red, with black stripes, and called her the <i>Ho-o-maro</i>, -meaning “sea-ship.”</p> - -<p>Captain Lee distributed among the imperial officers -of the place, and suite, a number of cotton-cloths of -various kinds from New England. They took them, -because it was the part of politeness to take them, -rather than because they had any use for them. -The upper class would not use them, the scanty wardrobe -of the poorer class does not need them, unless -they could be educated to breeches, nor could they -purchase them. There are times when they can not -get enough to eat; indeed it is said, that there was -a famine in the land at the time of the visit of the -Morrison, in 1836. The fact is the Japanese are a -people of few wants, and no luxuries, and the great -trade prophesied with that country, should we ever -get a commercial treaty, is a mere myth and exists -in the brain of visionaries alone. I deliberately be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_358">358</span>lieve, -that any clipper-ship, that would go there with -the hopes of a profitable venture, would rot at her -anchors, before she disposed of her cargo, or got -anything profitable in return.</p> - -<p>The Mississippi took her final departure from -Japan on the 1st of October, towing the Southampton -as far as Volcanic Oho Sima, where the ships -parted company. <i>Foogee</i> was hid.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>In February last, Commander H. A. Adams, visited -Simoda in the Powhatan and exchanged the ratification -of our treaty with the Japanese, but not without -some delay and difficulty. The Japanese affected -to be much surprised at his early return, and contended, -that the treaty said, that the exchange of -ratifications was to be <i>in</i> eighteen months. Captain -Adams contended, that our copy said <i>within</i> eighteen -months, and that we had a right to send it back as -soon as we liked. After some delay in getting the -originals from Yedo and examining them, this matter -was settled.</p> - -<p>When they were asked for the signature of the -emperor to accompany that of the president, they -said that was impossible: that he never put his name -to any document whatever. The captain then resorted -to a little bullying—the thing which had been -so successfully practised upon them by the <i>opperbevelhebber</i>—and -told them, he would not like to -carry back such an answer to his country—that if<span class="pagenum" id="Page_359">359</span> -we could have imagined such a thing, our secretary -of state only would have signed the ratification, -and not the president. They came down and gave -the signature of the emperor—that is a lot of -snakes’ tails, flies’ legs, and triangles, which for all -we know, were but there by Tatsnoski, or any other -functionary.</p> - -<p>The appearance of Simoda after the frightful earthquake -there in December, was sad in the extreme. -The town was piled in ruins, and junks had been carried -a distance of two miles into neighboring fields.</p> - -<p>The Russian admiral Pontiatine was at Simoda, -during the terrible convulsion, and seeing nothing -desirable about the port, had been insisting upon Oassacca, -the seaport of the city of Meaco, as one of -the places to be granted his country, but the wrecking -of his ship, the Diana, by the earthquake, left -him in no condition to insist upon his point with force, -so he was compelled to consent to Simoda.</p> - -<p>The implicit obedience to their laws, under whatever -circumstances, by the Japanese, was shown at -the wrecking and sinking of a junk, that drifted afoul -of the Diana and was stove. Two of her crew only -clung to the Diana, the rest stolidly sunk with the -junk. Those saved were asked the cause of this -strange conduct on the part of their late comrades. -They said it was, that their laws forbid them going -on board of a foreign vessel; nor did they know what -would be done with themselves for it.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_360">360</span></p> - -<p>If it be the best government, which governs least, -that is not the government of Japan; like the law of -gravitation it is always in action: its Briarian arms -are everywhere, and its subjects are a community of -Arguses. When storm is on the deep and its mariners -are clinging to their long tillers and shuddering -at the yawning sea, each lightning flash of heaven -shows them an etiolating hand, that will crush them, -if they dare leave their craft, until half engulfed.</p> - -<p>The English and French squadrons visited Nangasaki, -and negotiated their treaty there; though their -freedom of movement was greatly restricted. Their -masters were only allowed to land on a small barren -island to rate their chronometers; during the conferences -some of their officers were taken to task by the -Japanese for spitting on their matting.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The cruise of the United States steam-frigate Mississippi -under the command of a fine officer and -estimable gentleman—Sydney Smith Lee, during -the years 1852, ’53, ’54, and ’55, was one full of -interest. She is the third war-steamer, that ever circumnavigated -the globe, and during her cruise sailed -a distance more than twice its circumference. She -visited places, too, unusual.</p> - -<p>The writer wishes that the time had been afforded -him to give an outline of the terrible typhoon, which -she encountered in the North Pacific ocean on the 7th -of October, 1854—how we saw <i>two</i> Mondays, or two<span class="pagenum" id="Page_361">361</span> -16ths of October, come together in the same week—Honolulu—California—Taboga—stay -at Valparaiso—the -brilliant dash of the old ship, with a chasing -gale, into the straits of Magellan: of her subsequent -run through them “amid snow and glacier”—the -firing of the “22d of February” salute, which was -heard by the Patagonian—Rio Janeiro, &c., but this -would make our narrative of undue length.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_363">363</span></p> - - - - -<h2 id="APPENDIX">APPENDIX.</h2> - -<hr class="small" /> - -<h3>SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR NAPA, ISLAND GREAT LOO-CHOO.<br /> - -<span class="smcap"><small>By Lieutenant S. Bent, U. S. Navy.</small></span></h3> - -<p>This is the principal seaport of the island, and perhaps the only -one possessing the privileges of a port of entry.</p> - -<p>Its inner, or Junk harbor, has a depth of water of from two to -three fathoms, and though small, is sufficiently large to accommodate -with ease, the fifteen or twenty moderate-sized junks which are usually -found moored in it. These are mostly Japanese, with a few -Chinese and some small coasting craft, which seem to carry on a sluggish -trade with the neighboring islands.</p> - -<p>The outer harbor is protected to the eastward and southward by -the main land, while in other directions it is surrounded by merely a -chain of coral reefs, which answer as a tolerable breakwater against -a swell from the northward or westward, but affords of course, no -shelter from the wind. The holding ground is so good, however, that -a well-found ship could ride out here almost any gale in safety.</p> - -<p>The clearest approach to Napa from the westward, is by passing -to the northward of the Amakarima islands and sighting Agenhu -island, whence steer a S. E. course for the harbor, passing on -either side of Reef islands, being careful, however, not to approach -them too near on the western and southern sides, as the reefs below -water in these directions, are said to be more extensive than is shown -by the charts.</p> - -<p>After clearing Reef islands, bring Wood Hill to bear S. S. E., when<span class="pagenum" id="Page_364">364</span> -stand down for it, until getting upon the line of bearing for <i>South -channel</i>. This will carry you well clear of Blossom reef, yet not so -far off but that the White Tomb and clump of trees or bushes to the -southward of Tumai Head can be easily distinguished. An E. N. -E. ½ E., or E. N. E. course will now take you in clear of all dangers, -and give a good anchorage on or near the seven-fathom bank, -about half a mile to the northward and westward of False Capstan -Head. This channel being perfectly straight, is more desirable for -a stranger entering the harbor, than <i>Oar channel</i>, which, though -wider, has the disadvantage of its being necessary for a vessel to -alter her course some four or five points, just when she is in the midst -of reefs, which are nearly all below the surface of the water.</p> - - -<p class="center">TO ENTER BY OAR CHANNEL.</p> - -<p>Bring the centre of the island in Junk harbor (known by the deep -verdure of its vegetation), to fill the gap between the forts at the -entrance of Junk harbor and steer a S. E. ½ E. course, until Capstan -Head bears east, when haul up to E. N. E. and anchor as before -directed.</p> - - -<p class="center">THE NORTH CHANNEL</p> - -<p>Is very much contracted by a range of detached rocks making out -from the reef on the west side, and should not under ordinary circumstances -be attempted by a stranger; as at high water the reefs -are almost entirely covered, and it is difficult to judge of your exact -position, unless familiar with the various localities and landmarks. -To enter by this (North) channel, bring a remarkable notch in the -southern range of hills, in line with a small hillock just to the eastward -of False Capstan Head and stand in on this range S. by E. ½ E. -until Tumai Head bears E. ½ N., when open a little to the southward, -so as to give the reef to the eastward a berth, and select your -anchorage.</p> - -<p>There is a black spar-buoy anchored on Blossom reef <i>half way between -its eastern and western extremities</i>, a red spar-buoy on the point -of reef to the W. N. W’d of Abbey point, and a white spar-buoy on -the southeast extremity of Oar reef. Flags of corresponding colors -are attached to all these buoys, and they afford good guides for the -South and Oar channels. There are two large stakes on the reefs to -the eastward and westward of North channel, planted there by the -natives, this being the channel mostly used by junks trading to the -northward.</p> - -<p>An abundance of water can always be obtained at the fountains in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_365">365</span> -Junk river, where there is excellent landing for boats. There is a -good spring near the tombs in Tumai bluff, but unless the water is -perfectly smooth the landing is impracticable, and under any circumstances -it is inconvenient from the want of sufficient depth, except -at high tide.</p> - -<p>It is directed by the commander-in-chief that the vessels of the -squadron under his command, shall heave to, on approaching Napa, -and make signal for a pilot, when an officer familiar with the localities -and landmarks will be sent off from the vessel in port to pilot -her in, or point to her commander the position of the dangers to be -avoided.</p> - -<p>Should there, however, be no vessel in port, then boats are to be -sent ahead, and anchored upon the extremities of the reefs, between -which the vessel intends to pass.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Macao</span>, October 1, 1853.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Note.</span>—The spar-buoys, above described, were securely moored at -the time they were placed in their respective positions, by order of -Commodore Perry, but may be displaced, or entirely removed by the -heave of the sea, or by the natives, and should therefore not be entirely -relied upon.</p> - -<hr /> -<h3>OONTING, OR PORT MELLVILLE, ISLAND GREAT LOO-CHOO.<br /> - -<span class="smcap"><small>By Lieutenant S. Bent, U. S. Navy.</small></span></h3> - -<p>Oonting harbor is on the N. W. side of Loo-Choo, and distant -about thirty-five miles from Napa.</p> - -<p>Sugar Loaf island, an excellent landmark, lies about twelve miles -to the W. N. W’d of the entrance. The island is low and flat, with -the exception of a sharp conical peak near its eastern extremity, -which rises to a height of several hundred feet.</p> - -<p>Passing to the northward of Sugar Loaf island, an E. S. easterly -course will bring you to the mouth of the harbor, and to the northward -and westward of Kooi island. It is advisable to heave to here, or anchor -in twenty or twenty-five fathoms water, until boats or buoys can -be placed along the edges of the reefs bordering the channel, for without -some such guides, it is difficult for a vessel of large draft to find -her way in between the reefs, which contract, in places, to within a -cable’s length of each other, and are at all times covered with water.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_366">366</span></p> - -<p>The ranges and courses for the channel, are first: Hele rock in -range with double-topped mountain bearing south thirty-seven -degrees east. Steer this course, keeping the range on until Chimney -rock bears S. ½ E.; then for Chimney rock, until Point Conde -bears south forty-nine degrees east; then for Point Conde, until entering -the basin of Oonting, when anchor; giving your ship room -to swing clear of the reef making out to the northward of Point -Conde, and you will be as snug as if lying in dock; with good -holding ground, completely land-locked, and sheltered almost entirely -from every wind.</p> - -<p>Good water is to be had at the village of Oonting.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SAILING DIRECTIONS AND OBSERVATIONS, UPON -LLOYD HARBOR, BONIN ISLANDS.<br /> - -<span class="smcap"><small>From Reports of Acting Masters Madigan and Bennett, -of the U. S. Ships Saratoga and Susquehanna.</small></span></h3> - -<p>The entrance to the harbor of Port Lloyd, on the western side of -Peel island, one of the Bonin group, is well defined; so that it can -scarcely be mistaken.</p> - -<p>A ship bound in, would do well to place a boat on the shoal, that -makes off south from the eastern point of Square Rock, as it is called -on Beechy’s harbor chart. This shoal can be easily seen from aloft, -however, even when there is no swell on. It extends full two cables -length from Square Rock to the southward, and is steep. The centre -of the shoal is awash with a smooth sea. The tide rises about three -feet, and there is a coral rock about one cable’s length north from the -northern point of Southern Head, on which I found <i>eight feet water</i>. -But a ship entering the harbor would not be likely to approach Southern -Head so near as to be upon it. This island, as well as those surrounding -it, is chiefly visited by whale-ships, and its products, therefore, -are such as to suit their wants.</p> - -<p>Potatoes, yams, and other vegetables, fruits of various kinds, together -with wild hogs and goats can be procured from the few whites -and Sandwich-islanders—thirty five in all—settled there. Wood is -good and plentiful, and water can be had, though in limited quantities, -and slightly tainted by the coral rocks from which it springs.</p> - -<p>The anchorage is fair, though open to the south and west. The -reconnoissance made by order of the commander-in-chief, proved the -accuracy of Captain Beechy’s chart.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_367">367</span></p> - -<p>Mr. Bennet, acting master of the Susquehanna, says in his report: -“Assuming the position of Napa in Great Loo-Choo island, as established -by Beechy, to be correct, I find by the mean of my chronometers, -that he has placed Ten-Fathom Hole, in Port Lloyd, five -miles too far to the westward, and consequently the whole group is -placed that much to the westward of its true position.”</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE HARBOR OF SIMODA.<br /> - -<span class="smcap"><small>By Lieutenant Wm. L. Maury, U. S. Navy.</small></span></h3> - -<p class="right"> -<span class="smcap">U. S. Steam-Frigate Mississippi</span>,<br /> -<span class="gap2r"><i>Honolulu</i>, October 26, 1854.</span> -</p> - -<p>Vessels bound to the harbor of Simoda, to the southward and -westward, should make Cape Idzu, from which Rock island bears E. -S. E. ¼ E., distant about five miles; and if the weather is at all -clear, the chain of islands at the entrance of the gulf of Yedo will at -the same time be plainly visible.</p> - -<p>Between Rock island and the main land, there are a number of -rocks awash and above water, among which the Japanese junks freely -pass, but a ship should not attempt a passage inside of Rock island, -unless in case of urgent necessity, particularly as the northeasterly -current, which sweeps along this coast, seems to be, at this point, -capricious, both in direction and velocity.</p> - -<p>Giving Rock island a berth of a mile, the harbor of Simoda will -be in full view, bearing N. ¼ W., distant five miles.</p> - -<p>Vandalia Bluff, on the east side of the entrance, may be recognised -by a grove of pine-trees on the summit of the bluff, and the village -of Susaki, which lies about one third of the way between it and -Cape Diamond. Cape Diamond is a sharp point making out to the -eastward of the entrance of the harbor.</p> - -<p>Standing in from Rock island, you will probably pass through a -number of tide rips, but not get soundings with the hand lead, until -near the entrance of the harbor, when you will be in from fourteen to -twenty-seven fathoms.</p> - -<p>Should the wind be from the northward and fresh, a vessel should -anchor at the mouth of the harbor until it lulls or shifts, or until -she can conveniently warp in, as it is usually flawy and always baffling.</p> - -<p>Approaching from the northward and eastward, a vessel can pass -on either side of Oho Sima, from the centre, of which Cape Diamond -bears W. S. W. ¾ W., distant about twenty miles.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_368">368</span></p> - -<p>Between Oho Sima and Simoda no dangers are known to exist; -but the northeasterly current must be borne constantly in mind—particularly -at night and in thick weather. Its general strength is -from two to three miles per hour; but as this, as well as its direction, -is much influenced by the local wind, headlands, islands, &c., neither -can be relied upon.</p> - -<p>Should Oho Sima be obscured by thick weather, before reaching -Cape Diamond, endeavor to sight Rock island, for there are no very -conspicuous objects on the main land, by which a stranger can recognise -the harbor at a distance, and the shore appears as one unbroken -line.</p> - -<p>To the westward of the harbor there are several sand beaches, and -three or four sand banks, These can be plainly discerned when within -six or eight miles, and are good landmarks.</p> - -<p>A vessel from the southward and eastward should pass to the westward -of the island of Kozu Sima,<a id="FNanchor_4_4" href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">4</a> which may be known by a remarkable -snow-white cliff on its western side. There is also a white -patch on its summit, to the northward of the cliff. From this island -the harbor bears N. by W. ½ W., distant about twenty-eight miles.</p> - -<p>There are but two hidden dangers in the harbor; the first is the -Southampton rock, which lies in mid-channel, bearing N. ½ W. from -Vandalia bluff, about three fourths of the way between it and -Centre island. This rock is about twenty-five feet in diameter, and -has two fathoms water upon it. It is marked by a white spar-buoy.</p> - -<p>The second is the Supply rock. Bearing S. by W., a short distance -from Buisako islet, and is a sharp rock, with eleven feet water -upon it. Its position is designated by a red spar-buoy.</p> - -<p>Both of these buoys are securely moored, and the authorities of -Simoda have promised to replace them, should they by any cause be -removed.</p> - -<p>Centre island, which receives its name from being the point from -which the treaty limits are measured, is high, conical, and covered -with trees. A cave passes entirely through it.</p> - -<p>In the outer roads, or mouth of the harbor, a disagreeable swell is -sometimes experienced; but inside of the Southampton rock and -Centre island, vessels are well sheltered, and the water comparatively -smooth. Moor with an open hawse to the southward and westward.</p> - -<p>There are good landings for boats in Simoda creek, and at the village -of Kakizaki.</p> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_369">369</span></p> -<p>A harbor-master and three pilots have been appointed; wood, -water, fish, fowls, and eggs, also sweet potatoes and other vegetables -may be procured from the authorities. It is necessary to supply them -with casks to bring the water off.</p> - - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Latitude Centre island</td> - <td class="tdr">34° 39′ 49″ N.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Longitude Centre island</td> - <td class="tdr">138° 57′ 50″ E.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Variation</td> - <td class="tdr">52′ westerly.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">High Water, F. and C</td> - <td class="tdr">5 hours.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Extreme rise of tide</td> - <td class="tdr">5 ft. 7 in.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Mean rise of tide</td> - <td class="tdr">3 ft.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>To make the foregoing directions more easily comprehended, they -have been rendered as concise as possible, but to furnish further information -to navigators bound to, or passing the port, the following -additional remarks are appended:—</p> - -<p>The harbor of Simoda is near the southeastern extremity of the -peninsula of Idzu, which terminates at the cape of that name. To -the northward of the harbor, a high ridge intersects the peninsula, and -south of this, all the way to the cape, it is broken by innumerable -peaks of less elevation.</p> - -<p>The harbor bears S. W. by W. from Cape Sagami, at the entrance -of Yedo bay, distant about 45 miles.</p> - -<p>Rock island is about 120 feet high, and a third of a mile in length, -with precipitous shores and uneven outlines. It has a thick matting -of grass, weeds, moss, &c., on the top.</p> - -<p>From the summit of this island overfalls were seen, bearing N. -½ W., distant a mile, or mile and a half. These may have been caused -by a rock or reef. An attempt was made to find it, but the strong -current and fresh wind prevented a satisfactory examination. The -Japanese fishermen, however, deny the existence of any such danger.</p> - -<p>N. by W. from Rock island, distant 2 miles, are the Ukona rocks. -These are two rocks, though they generally appear as one. The -largest is about 70 feet high. Between these and Rock island, the -current was found setting east-northeasterly, fully four miles an hour.</p> - -<p>Centre island bears from Rock island N. ½ E., distant 5½ miles, -and from Ukona rocks N. by E. ½ E., distant 3½ miles.</p> - -<p>Buisako islet lies N. N. E. from Centre island. It is about 40 feet -high, and covered with trees and shrubs.</p> - -<p>Should the buoy on Southampton rock be removed, the east end -of Centre island on with the west end of Buisako, will clear the rock -to the westward.</p> - -<p>Off the village of Susaki, and distant one third of a mile from the -shore, is a ledge of rocks, upon which the surf is always breaking; -give them a berth of two cables in passing.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_370">370</span></p> - -<p>Approaching from the eastward, the harbor will not open until you -get well inside of Cape Diamond.</p> - -<p>To the northward of Cape Diamond is the bay of Sirahama, which -is quite deep, and as it has also several sand-beaches, it may be -mistaken for Simoda; but as you approach this bay, Cape Diamond -will shut in the Ukona rocks, and Rock island to the southward; -while in the Simoda roads they are visible from all points.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Cape Idzu,</td> - <td class="tdl">latitude</td> - <td class="tdr">34° 36′ 03″ N.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td>”</td> - <td class="tdl">longitude</td> - <td class="tdr">138° 52′ 32″ E.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Rock Island,</td> - <td class="tdl">latitude</td> - <td class="tdr">34° 34′ 20″ N.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td>”</td> - <td class="tdl">longitude</td> - <td class="tdr">138° 57′ 10″ E.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>S. W. ½ W. from Kozu-Sima, distant about 20 miles, and south, a -little westerly, from Cape Idzu, distant about 40 miles, there are two -patches of dangerous rocks, 15 or 20 feet high, which have been named -Redfield rocks. They are in—Latitude 33° 56′ 13″ N., Longitude -138° 48′ 31″ E.; and Latitude 33° 57′ 31″ N., Longitude 138° -49′ 13″ E.</p> - -<p>These positions may not be strictly correct, but it is believed they -are not much out of the way.</p> - -<div class="less"> - -<p>Several errors in the first edition of these directions, published in July last, -have been corrected in the above.—W. L. M.</p></div> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR YEDO.<br /> - -<span class="smcap"><small>By Lieut. Wm. L. Maury, U. S. N.</small></span></h3> - -<p>Vessels from the southward, bound to this bay, should pass up to -the westward of the chain of islands lying off the gulf of Yedo, and -are cautioned against mistaking the deep bight of Kawatsu bay for -the entrance of Uraga channel, for on the northeast side of this bay -there is a ledge of rocks several miles from the shore, bearing from -Cape Sagami about W. N. W., distant ten miles, upon which one of -the vessels of our squadron grounded. A stranger without a correct -chart would naturally make this mistake, as the opening of the channel -is not seen at a distance from this quarter, the shore appearing as -an unbroken line.</p> - -<p>The entrance to the channel bears from the centre of Oho-Sima N. -E. by N., distant about twenty miles. Stand in upon this line, and -the Saddle hill to the northward of Cape Sagami will be readily recognised, -as well as the round black knob on the eastern side of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_371">371</span> -channel. On approaching Uraga, the Plymouth rocks will be plainly -seen; give these a berth of half a mile to clear the Ingersoll Patch, -a sunken rock with but one fathom on it, and which is the only known -danger in the channel.</p> - -<p>Between Plymouth rocks and Cape Kami-Saki, the ground is clear -and the anchorage good, if care be taken to get pretty well in, so as -to avoid the strong tides which sweep round the latter with great -rapidity. A spit makes out a short distance to the southward of -Kami-Saki; but to the northward of the cape, the shore is bold, and -the water very deep.</p> - -<p>On rounding Cape Kami-Saki, if bound for the city of Yedo, steer -N. W. by N., until Perry island bears S. by W. ¾ W., so as to clear -Saratoga spit, which extends well out from the eastern shore; then -haul up, keeping Perry island upon this bearing until the beacon on -the low point to the southward of Yedo bears W. N. W. This clears -the shoal off the point, and here there is good anchorage in about ten -fathoms water, in full view of the city of Yedo.</p> - -<p>At this point our survey terminated; the boats, however, found a -clear channel, with plenty of water for the largest vessels, several miles -farther to the northward, and within a few miles of the city.</p> - -<p>If bound to the American anchorage, from Cape Kami-Saki, steer -N. W., and anchor in eight or ten fathoms water, with Perry island -bearing S. S. E., and Webster island S. W. by S.</p> - -<p>To the southward of Webster island there is also good anchorage -in six and seven fathoms. Near this anchorage, there are two snug -coves, very accessible, in which vessels may conveniently repair and -refit.</p> - -<p>Susquehanna bay, three miles W. N. W. from Cape Kami-Saki, is -well sheltered, but it contains a number of reefs and rocks, and is -therefore not recommended as an anchorage.</p> - -<p>Mississippi bay is four miles north of the American anchorage; it -is well sheltered from the prevailing winds. Upon anchoring it is -necessary to give the shore a wide berth, to avoid a shoal which -extends out from half to three quarters of a mile. The conspicuous -headland, or long yellow bluff, on the north side of this bay, is called -Treaty point; a shoal surrounds the point from two thirds of a mile -to a mile distant.</p> - -<p>Between the American anchorage and Treaty point, the soundings -are irregular, shoaling suddenly from twelve to five fathoms on a -bank of hard sand.</p> - -<p>To the northward of Treaty point, and N. N. W. from Cape Kami-Saki, -distant fourteen miles, is Yokuhama bay. To reach this anchorage, -bring the wooded bluff which terminates the high land on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_372">372</span> -the north side of the bay to bear N. by W. ½ W., and steer for it until -Treaty point bears S. W. by S.—(this clears the spit off the point); -then haul up about N. W. by N. for the bluff over the town of Kanagawa, -and anchor in five and a half or six fathoms, with the Haycock -just open to the eastward of Mandarin bluff. Mandarin is the steep -bluff a mile to the northward of Treaty point.</p> - -<p>A flat extends out from the northern shore of this bay, between -Kanagawa and Beacon point from one to two miles; off Mandarin -bluff there is also a shoal extending a mile to the northward.</p> - -<p>The bay of Yedo is about twelve miles wide, and thirty deep, with -excellent holding-ground, and capable of sheltering the fleets of the -world.</p> - -<p>Our survey embraced the western shore only, from Cape Kami-Saki -to Beacon point. We had no opportunity of examining the -eastern side. The soundings from Treaty point across in an E. S. E. -direction are regular, and three fathoms were found about a mile and -a half from the opposite shore.</p> - -<p>Of Uraga channel, a reconnoissance was made of the western shore -only.</p> - -<p>During our stay in the bay, from the 17th February to the 18th -April, the weather was generally fine, being occasionally interrupted -by strong winds and heavy rain. The gales came up suddenly from -the southward and westward with a low barometer, and continued for -a short time, when the wind hauled round to the northward and westward, -and moderated. We had no easterly blows; in fact, the wind -was rarely from this quarter, except when hauling round from the -northward (as it invariably did) by east to the southward and westward.</p> - -<p>The tide is quite strong out in the bay; and off the tail of Saratoga -spit, Perry island, and Cape Kami-Saki, its velocity is much increased. -But at the anchorage in the bay of Yokuhama it was scarcely felt. At -Yokuhama the Japanese, authorities supplied us with wood and water, -and a few vegetables, fowls, eggs, oysters, and clams.</p> - - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Latitude,</td> - <td class="tdl">Cape Sagami</td> - <td class="tdr">35° 06′ 30″</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Longitude,</td> - <td>”</td> - <td class="tdr">139° 40′</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Latitude,</td> - <td class="tdl">Webster Island</td> - <td class="tdr">35° 18′ 30″</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Longitude,</td> - <td>”</td> - <td class="tdr">139° 40′ 34″</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Latitude</td> - <td class="tdl">of Treaty building, north end of Yokuhama</td> - <td class="tdr">35° 26′ 44″</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Longitude,</td> - <td>”</td> - <td class="tdr">139° 40′ 23″</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Variation</td> - <td class="tdl"></td> - <td class="tdr">25′ westerly.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">High Water, F. and C</td> - <td class="tdl"></td> - <td class="tdr">6 hours.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Rise and fall at Yokuhama</td> - <td class="tdl"></td> - <td class="tdr">6 feet.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_373">373</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE PORT OF HAKODADI.<br /> - -<span class="smcap"><small>By Lieutenant Wm. L. Maury, U. S. N.</small></span></h3> - -<p class="right"> -<span class="smcap">United States Steam-Frigate Mississippi</span>,<br /> -<span class="gap2"><span class="smcap">At Sea</span>, <i>July 20, 1854</i>.</span> -</p> - -<p>This splendid and beautiful bay, which for accessibility and safety -is one of the finest in the world, lies on the north side of the straits -of Sangar, which separate the Japanese islands of Nippon and Yeso, -and about midway between Cape SirijaSaki<a id="FNanchor_5_5" href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">5</a> (the N. E. point of Nippon), -and the city of Matsmai. It bears from the cape N. W. ½ W., -distant about 45 miles, and is about 4 miles wide at the entrance, and -5 miles deep.</p> - -<p>The harbor is the southeastern arm of the bay, and is completely -sheltered, with regular soundings and excellent holding ground. It -is formed by a bold-peaked promontory, standing well out from the -high land of the main, with which it is connected by a low sandy isthmus, -and which, appearing at a distance as an island, may be easily -recognised.</p> - -<p>The town is situated on the northeast slope of the promontory, -facing the harbor, and contains about 6,000 inhabitants.</p> - -<p>Approaching from the eastward, after passing Cape Suwu Kubo, -named on our chart Cape Blunt, which is a conspicuous headland 12 -miles E. by S. from the town, the junks at anchor in the harbor will -be visible over the low isthmus.</p> - - -<p class="center">FOR ENTERING THE HARBOR.</p> - -<p>Rounding the promontory of Hakodadi, and giving it a berth of a -mile, to avoid the calms under the high land, steer for the sharp peak -of Komaga daki, bearing about N., until the east peak of the Saddle, -bearing about N. E. by N., opens to the westward of the round knob -on the side of the mountain, then haul up to the northward and eastward, -keeping them open until the centre of the sandhills on the isthmus -bears S. E. by E. ¾ E.; these may be recognised by the dark -knolls upon them. This will clear a spit which makes out from the -northwestern point of the town in a north-northwesterly direction -two thirds of a mile; then bring the sandhills a point on the port bow, -and stand in until the northwestern point of the town bears S. W. ½ W., -when you will have the best berth, with 5½ or 6 fathoms water. If it -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_374">374</span>is desirable to get nearer in, haul up a little to the eastward of S., for -the low rocky peak which will be just visible over the sloping ridge -to the southward and eastward of the town. A vessel of moderate -draught may approach within a quarter of a mile of Tsuki point, -where there is a building-yard for junks. This portion of the harbor, -however, is generally crowded with vessels of this description; and, -unless the want of repairs, or some other cause, renders a close berth -necessary, it is better to remain outside.</p> - -<p>If the Peak or Saddle is obscured by clouds or fog, after doubling -the promontory, steer N. by E. ½ E., until the sandhills are brought -upon the bearing above given, when proceed as there directed.</p> - -<p>A short distance from the tail of the spit is a detached sandbank, -with 3½ fathoms on it. The outer edge of this is marked by a white -spar-buoy. Between this and the spit there is a narrow channel with -5 or 6 fathoms water. Vessels may pass on either side of the buoy, -but it is most prudent to go to the northward of it.</p> - -<p>Should the wind fail before reaching the harbor, there is good anchorage -in the outer roads, in from 25 to 10 fathoms.</p> - -<p>Excellent wood and water may be procured from the authorities of -the town; or, if preferred, water can be easily obtained from Kamida -creek, which enters the harbor to the northward and eastward of the -town.</p> - -<p>The season, at the time of our visit, was unfavorable for procuring -supplies; a few sweet and Irish potatoes, eggs, and fowls, however, -were obtained, and these articles, at a more favorable period of the -year, will no doubt be furnished in sufficient quantities to supply any -vessels that may in future visit the port.</p> - -<p>Our seine supplied us with fine salmon and a quantity of other fish, -and the shores of the bay abound with excellent shellfish.</p> - -<p>During our stay in this harbor, from the 17th May to 3d June, the -weather was generally pleasant until the 1st June, when the fog set -in. It was usually calm in the morning, but toward the middle of the -day a brisk breeze from S. W. sprung up.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td class="tdl" colspan="2">Latitude, mouth of Kamida creek</td> - <td class="tdr">41° 49′ 22″ N.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Longitude,</td> - <td>”</td> - <td class="tdr">140° 47′ 45″ E.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl" colspan="2">Variation</td> - <td class="tdr">4° 30′ W.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl" colspan="2">High Water, F. and C</td> - <td class="tdr">5 hours.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl" colspan="2">Extreme rise and fall of tide</td> - <td class="tdr">3 feet.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Our chronometers were rated at Napa Kiang, Loo-Choo, from the -position of that place as given by Captain Beechy,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_375">375</span> R. N.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE CURRENCY QUESTION.</h3> - -<p>[In the text is given an account of the negotiations relative to the -comparative value of the American and Japanese coin. It is thought -as well to give the report of the pursers appointed to arrange the question, -which will be found below.]</p> - -<p class="right"> -<span class="smcap">United States Steam-Frigate Powhatan</span>,<br /> -<span class="gap2r"><span class="smcap">Simoda</span>, <i>June 15, 1854</i>.</span> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Sir</span>: The committee appointed by you, in your letter of the 12th -instant, to confer with a committee from the Japanese commissioners -in reference to the rate of exchange and currency between the two -nations in the trade at the ports opened, and to settle the price of coal -to be delivered at this port, beg leave to report:—</p> - -<p>The Japanese committee, it was soon seen, came to the conference -with their minds made up to adhere to the valuation they had already -set upon our coins, even if the alternative was the immediate cessation -of trade. The basis upon which they made their calculation was -the nominal rate at which the government sells bullion when it is purchased -from the mint, and which seems also to be that by which the -metal is received from the mines. The Japanese have a decimal system -of weight, like the Chinese, of catty, tael, mace, candareen, and -cash, by which articles in general are weighed; but gold and silver -are not reckoned above taels. In China a tael of silver in weight and -one in currency are the same, for the Chinese have no silver coin; but -in Japan, as in European countries, the standard of value-weight and -that of currency-weight differ. We were told that a tael weight of -silver has now come to be reckoned, when it is bullion, as equal to -225 candareens, or 2 taels, 2 mace, 5 candareens; but when coined, -the same amount in weight is held to be worth 6 taels, 4 mace. It is -at the bullion value that the government has decided to receive our -dollar, the same at which they take the silver from the mines; asserting -that, as its present die and assay give it no additional value, it is -worth no more to them. In proportion to a tael, a dollar weighs 7 -mace, 1 1-5 candareen, which, at the rates of bullion value, makes it -worth 1 tael, 6 mace, or 1,600 cash. Thus the Japanese government -will make a profit of 66-2/3 per cent. on every dollar paid them of full -weight, with the trifling deduction of the expense of recoining it. -The injustice of this arrangement was shown, and the propriety of -paying to the seller himself the coin we gave at this depreciated rate -urged, but in vain.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_376">376</span></p> - -<p>For gold the rate is more, as the disparity between the value of -bullion and that of coin, among the Japanese, is not so great. A tael -weight of gold is valued at 19 taels in currency, and a mace at 1 tael, -9 mace. The gold dollar weighs almost 5 candareens, but the Japanese -have reckoned it as the twentieth part of a $20 piece, which they -give as 8 mace, 8 candareens; and, consequently, the dollar is only 4 -candareens, 4 cash. This weight brings the gold dollar, when compared -with the tael of bullion gold worth 19 taels, to be worth 836 -cash, and the $20 piece to be worth 16,720 cash, or 16 taels, 7 mace, -2 candareens. This, when converted into a silver value, makes a -gold dollar worth 52¼ cents, and a $20 piece worth $10 45, at which -the Japanese propose to take them. But this valuation of the gold -dollar at 52¼ cents, when reckoned at 836 cash, its assessed value by -the Japanese government, suffers the same depreciation as our silver; -and its real value, when compared with the inflated currency in use -among the people, is only about 17¼ cents. Consequently, by this -estimate, gold becomes 50 per cent. worse for us to pay in than silver. -The currency value of a gold dollar, taking the its-evoo as of equal -purity, and comparing them weight for weight, is only 1,045 cash, or -nearly 22 cents in silver; so that the actual depreciation on the part -of the Japanese is not so great as silver—being for the two metals, -when weighed with each other, for silver as 100 to 33-1/3, and for gold -as 22 to 17. The elements of this comparison are not quite certain, -and therefore its results are somewhat doubtful; but the extraordinary -discrepancy of both metals, compared with our coins and with their -own copper coins, shows how the government has inflated the whole -monetary system in order to benefit itself.</p> - -<p>The parties could come to no agreement, as we declined to consent -to the proposals of the Japanese, who were decided to adhere to their -valuation of a silver dollar at 1 tael, 6 mace, or 1,600 cash; neither -would they consent to do justly by us in relation to the moneys paid -them at this place before our departure for Hakodadi, at the rate of -only 1 tael, 2 mace, or 1,200 cash, to the dollar, by which they had -made a profit of 76 per cent. on each dollar, stating that the money -paid them at this rate had passed out of their hands; and, moreover, -that the prices placed upon the articles furnished had been charged -at reduced prices with reference to the low value placed upon the -dollar.</p> - -<p>For the amount due and unsettled, for supplies received at Yokuhama, -and on account of which Purser Eldredge paid Moriyama Yenoske, -imperial interpreter, $350 in gold and silver, that they might be -assayed and tested at Yedo, they consent to receive the dollar at the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_377">377</span> -valuation now placed on them—that is, at the rate of 1,600 cash for -the silver dollar.</p> - -<p>We carefully investigated the price of the coal to be delivered to -vessels in this port. We learn that 10,000 catties or 100 piculs have -arrived; and this, at the rate of 1,680 catties to a ton of 2,240 pounds, -or 16 4-5 piculs, costs 262 taels, 6 mace, 5 candareens, 3 cash, or $164 16; -making the rate to be $27 91 per ton. The Japanese state that the -price of coal would be considerably reduced as the demand for it increased, -and their facilities for mining became more perfect.</p> - -<p>In conclusion, we take pleasure in expressing our thanks to Messrs. -Williams and Portman, whose services as interpreters were indispensable, -and from whom we received important aid in our investigations.</p> - -<p>We have the honor to be, respectfully, your obedient servants,</p> - -<p class="right"> -<span class="smcap gap2r">William Speiden</span>,<br /> -<i>Purser U. S. Navy</i>.<br /> - -<span class="smcap gap2r">J. C. Eldredge</span>,<br /> -<i>Purser U. S. Navy</i>.</p> - -<p>Commodore <span class="smcap gap2">M. C. Perry</span>,<br /> -<i>Commander-in-Chief U. S. Naval Forces<br /> -in the East India and China Seas</i>.</p> - - -<h3>TABLE OF JAPANESE DISTANCES.</h3> - -<ul><li>Twenty-eight and one fifth Ree, make one degree.</li> - -<li>One Ree is equal to thirty-six Tsho.</li> - -<li>One Tsho is equal to sixty Ken.</li> - -<li>One Ken is equal to one Meter, and nine hundred and nine thousandth -of a meter.</li> -</ul> - -<div class="less"> - -<p>A Meter is about 39⅓ inches.</p></div> - - -<p class="center"><i>Japanese Measurement of the Heights of Foogee Yama.</i></p> - - -<ul><li>Thirty-six Streets.</li> -<li>One Street, sixty Ikis.</li> -<li>One Iki, six Fans.<a id="FNanchor_6_6" href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">6</a></li> -<li>Six Fans, five American feet.</li> -</ul> - - -<p class="center">THE END.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - - -<h3>POETRY AND THE DRAMA.</h3> - - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p>The Works of Shakespeare, <small>reprinted from the newly-discovered -copy of the Folio of 1632, in the possession of <span class="smcap">J. Payne -Collier</span>, with numerous Illustrations. One vol. Imperial 8vo. Cloth, -$4; sheep, $4 25; half morocco, plain, $5 00; marble edges, $5 50; half -calf, or morocco extra, $6 00; full morocco, antique, $7 00.</small></p> - -<p><small>Same as above, cheap edition, cloth, $3 00; sheep, $3 50; imitation morocco, -full gilt, $4 00.</small></p> - -<p>The Works of Shakespeare, <small>same as above. Uniform in -size with the celebrated Chiswick Edition, 8 vols. 16mo, cloth, $6 00; -half calf or morocco, plain, $10 00; half calf or morocco, extra, $12 00.</small></p> - -<p>Notes and Emendations of Shakespeare. <small>Notes and -Emendations to the Text of Shakespeare’s Plays, from the Early Manuscript -Corrections in a copy of the folio of 1632, in the possession of <span class="smcap">John -Payne Collier</span>, F. S. A. Third edition, with a fac-simile of the Manuscript -Corrections. 1 vol., 12mo., cloth. Price $1 50.</small></p> - -<p>Lilian, and other Poems. <small>By <span class="smcap">Winthrop Mackworth -Praed</span>. Now first collected. 1 vol., 12mo. Price $1 00.</small></p> - -<p>Lays of the Scottish Cavaliers. <small>By <span class="smcap">William E. Aytoun</span>, -Professor of Literature and Belles-Lettres in the University of Edinburgh, -and Editor of Blackwood’s Magazine. 1 vol., 12mo, cloth. Price $1 00.</small></p> - -<p>Firmilian; a Spasmodic Tragedy. <small>By <span class="smcap">T. Percy Jones</span> -[W. E. Aytoun]. Price 50 cents.</small></p> - -<p>The Book of Ballads. <small>By <span class="smcap">Bon Gaultier</span>. 1 vol. 12mo, -cloth. Price 75 cents.</small></p> - -<p>Poetical Works of Fitz-Greene Halleck.<small> New and only -Complete Edition, containing several New Poems, together with many -now first collected. 1 vol., 12mo. Price $1 00.</small></p> - -<p>Simms’ Poetical Works. <small>Poems: Descriptive, Dramatic, -Legendary, and Contemplative. 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Price $1 00.</small></p></div> - - - - -<h3>HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY.</h3> - - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p>Ancient Egypt under the Pharaohs. <small>By <span class="smcap">John Kenrick</span>, -M. A. In 2 vols., 12mo. Price $2 50.</small></p> - -<p>Newman’s Regal Rome. <small>An Introduction to Roman -History. By <span class="smcap">Francis W. Newman</span>, Professor of Latin in the University -College, London. 12mo, cloth. Price 63 cents</small>.</p> - -<p>The Catacombs of Rome,<small> as Illustrating the Church of -the First Three Centuries. By the Right Rev. <span class="smcap">W. Ingraham Kip</span>, D.D., -Missionary Bishop of California. Author of “Christmas Holidays in -Rome,” “Early Conflicts of Christianity,” &c., &c. With over 100 Illustrations. -12mo, cloth. Price 75 cents.</small></p> - -<p>The History of the Crusades. <small>By <span class="smcap">Joseph François -Michaud</span>. Translated by W. Robson. 3 vols., 12mo, Maps. 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Price $1 00.</small></p> - -<p>Las Cases’ Napoleon, <small>Memoirs of the Life, Exile, and -Conversations of the Emperor Napoleon. By the Count <span class="smcap">Las Cases</span>. -With Portraits on steel woodcuts, &c. 4 vols., 12mo, cloth, $4 00; half -calf or morocco extra $8 00.</small></p></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<h3> FOOTNOTES</h3> - -<div class="footnotes"> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_1_1" href="#FNanchor_1_1" class="label">1</a> -The work of Kœmpfer, to which reference, as to Japanese history, -is frequently made, singular to say, was never written by him. It -was written by one Camphay, governor-general of the Dutch East -Indies, and at one time the superintendent of the trade in Japan. -The manuscript was only given to Kœmpfer to bring home, and to -place it in the archives of the Dutch East India Company at Amsterdam; -but instead of complying with the trust, he took the pages with -him to Germany, and kept them until he died. After his death, -more than a century ago, a friend of his named Scheuchzer, residing -in London, went immediately to Germany, procured the manuscript, -and it was first published in Great Britain in English, and subsequently -translated into other languages.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_2_2" href="#FNanchor_2_2" class="label">2</a> -Probably Bonin island, known to the Japanese as Moninsoma.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_3_3" href="#FNanchor_3_3" class="label">3</a> -Probably Kanaka, Sandwich island, he alludes to.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_4_4" href="#FNanchor_4_4" class="label">4</a> -This is the most southwestern island of the chain of islands lying off the -Gulf of Yedo.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_5_5" href="#FNanchor_5_5" class="label">5</a> -Saki, in the Japanese language, means Cape, consequently it should more -properly be called Cape Sirija; but to prevent mistakes it has been thought advisable -to adopt the Japanese names.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_6_6" href="#FNanchor_6_6" class="label">6</a> -The fans used by the officials of Japan, are of a uniform size, and regulated by -custom.</p></div> -</div> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Japan expedition. 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