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diff --git a/old/60328-8.txt b/old/60328-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 7bdbc93..0000000 --- a/old/60328-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16247 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's The Boy Travellers on the Congo, by Thomas W. Knox - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll -have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using -this ebook. - - - -Title: The Boy Travellers on the Congo - Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey with Henry M. Stanley - "Through the Dark Continent" - -Author: Thomas W. Knox - -Release Date: September 19, 2019 [EBook #60328] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE BOY TRAVELLERS ON THE CONGO *** - - - - -Produced by Annie R. McGuire - - - - - - - - -[Illustration: Book Cover] - - - - -[Illustration: MAP OF CENTRAL AFRICA] - - - - -[Illustration] - - - - -THE BOY TRAVELLERS ON - -THE CONGO - -ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY WITH - -HENRY M. STANLEY - -"THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT" - -By THOMAS W. KNOX - -AUTHOR OF - -"THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE FAR EAST" "IN SOUTH AMERICA" AND "IN RUSSIA" - -"THE YOUNG NIMRODS" "THE VOYAGE OF THE 'VIVIAN'" ETC. - -Illustrated - -NEW YORK - -HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE - -1888 - - - - -By THOMAS W. KNOX. - - * * * * * - -THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE FAR EAST. Five Volumes. Copiously Illustrated. -8vo, Cloth, $3.00 each. The volumes sold separately. Each volume -complete in itself. - - I. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO JAPAN AND CHINA. - II. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO SIAM AND JAVA. With - Descriptions of Cochin China, Cambodia, Sumatra, and the Malay - Archipelago. - III. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO CEYLON AND INDIA. With - Descriptions of Borneo, the Philippine Islands, and Burmah. - IV. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO EGYPT AND PALESTINE. - V. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY THROUGH AFRICA. - -THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN SOUTH AMERICA. Adventures of Two Youths in a -Journey through Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Brazil, Paraguay, Argentine -Republic, and Chili; with Descriptions of Patagonia and Tierra del -Fuego, and Voyages upon the Amazon and La Plata Rivers. Copiously -Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $3.00. - -THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE. Adventures of Two Youths in a -Journey in European and Asiatic Russia, with Accounts of a Tour across -Siberia, Voyages on the Amoor, Volga, and other Rivers, a Visit to -Central Asia, Travels Among the Exiles, and a Historical Sketch of the -Empire from its Foundation to the Present Time. Copiously Illustrated. -8vo, Cloth, $3.00. - -THE BOY TRAVELLERS ON THE CONGO. Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey -with Henry M. Stanley "Through the Dark Continent." Copiously -Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $3.00. - -THE VOYAGE OF THE "VIVIAN" TO THE NORTH POLE AND BEYOND. Adventures of -Two Youths in the Open Polar Sea. Copiously Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, -$2.50. - -HUNTING ADVENTURES ON LAND AND SEA. Two Volumes. Copiously Illustrated. -8vo, Cloth, $2.50 each. The volumes sold separately. Each volume -complete in itself. - - I. THE YOUNG NIMRODS IN NORTH AMERICA. - II. THE YOUNG NIMRODS AROUND THE WORLD. - - * * * * * - -PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK. - -_Any of the above volumes sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of -the United States or Canada, on receipt of the price._ - - * * * * * - -Copyright, 1887, by HARPER & BROTHERS.--_All rights reserved._ - - - - -PREFACE - - -As indicated on the title-page, "The Boy Travellers on the Congo" is -condensed from that remarkable narrative, "Through the Dark Continent," -by one of the most famous explorers that the century has produced. The -origin of the present volume is sufficiently explained in the following -letter: - - "EVERETT HOUSE, NEW YORK, _December_ 1, 1886. - - "MY DEAR COLONEL KNOX,--It is a gift to be able to write to - interest boys, and no one who has read your several volumes in the - 'Boy Traveller' series can doubt that you possess this gift to an - eminent degree. While reading those interesting and valuable books - of yours, I have regretted that they were not issued in the time of - my own youth, so that I might have enjoyed as a boy the treat of - their perusal. Now, the Harpers desire a condensation of my two - volumes, 'Through the Dark Continent,' to be made for young folks, - but I have neither the time, nor the experience in juvenile - writing, for performing the work. I suggest that you shall produce - a volume for your series of 'Boy Travellers,' and assure you that - it would delight me greatly to have you take your boys, who have - followed you through so many lands, on the journey that I made from - Zanzibar to the mouth of the Congo. - - "There is too much in my work in its present form for their mental - digestion; but, narrated in that chaste and forcible style which - has proved so entertaining to them, they would certainly find the - journey through Africa of exceeding interest when made in your - company. By all means take Frank and Fred to the wilds of Africa; - let them sail the equatorial lakes, travel through Uganda, Unyoro, - and other countries ruled by dark-skinned monarchs, descend the - magnificent and perilous Congo, see the strange tribes and people - of that wonderful land, and repeat the adventures and discoveries - that made my journey so eventful. You have my full permission, my - dear friend, to use the material in any way you deem proper in - adapting it to the requirements of the 'Boy Travellers.' - - "Sincerely yours, as always, - HENRY M. STANLEY. - "TO COLONEL THOS. W. KNOX." - -The preparation of this book has been a double pleasure--first, to -comply with the wishes of an old friend, and secondly, to carry the boys -and girls of the present day to the wonderful region that, until very -recently, was practically unknown. I have the fullest confidence that -they will greatly enjoy the journey across equatorial Africa from the -eastern to the western sea, and eagerly peruse every line of Mr. -Stanley's narrative of discovery and adventure. - -The portrait of Mr. Stanley is from a photograph taken early in 1886. -The maps on the inside of the covers were specially drawn for this work, -and the publishers, with their customary liberality, have allowed the -use of wood-cuts selected from several volumes of African travel and -exploration, in addition to those which originally appeared in "Through -the Dark Continent." - -In the hope that "The Boy Travellers on the Congo" will be as cordially -received as were its predecessors in the series, the work is herewith -submitted to press and public for perusal and comment. - - T. W. K. - NEW YORK, _May_, 1887. - - - - -CONTENTS - - - CHAPTER I. - - CROSSING THE ATLANTIC OCEAN WITH STANLEY.--"THROUGH THE DARK - CONTINENT."--AN IMPROMPTU GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY.--PERSONAL - APPEARANCE OF STANLEY.--COMMENTS UPON HIM BY FRANK AND - FRED.--HOW THE GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY WAS ORGANIZED.--READING - STANLEY'S BOOK.--STANLEY'S DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND FOR - ZANZIBAR.--JOINT ENTERPRISE OF TWO NEWSPAPERS.--PREPARATIONS - FOR THE EXPEDITION.--THE "LADY ALICE."--BARKER AND THE - POCOCKS.--ZANZIBAR.--PRINCE BARGHASH.--INHABITANTS OF - ZANZIBAR.--THE WANGWANA. Page 13 - - CHAPTER II. - - TRANSPORTATION IN AFRICA.--MEN AS BEASTS OF BURDEN.--PORTERS, - AND THEIR PECULIARITIES.--ENGAGING MEN FOR THE EXPEDITION.--A - "SHAURI."--TROUBLES WITH THE "LADY ALICE."--AGREEMENT BETWEEN - STANLEY AND HIS MEN.--DEPARTURE FROM ZANZIBAR.--BAGAMOYO.--THE - UNIVERSITIES MISSION.--DEPARTURE OF THE EXPEDITION.--DIFFICULTIES - WITH THE PORTERS.--SUFFERINGS ON THE MARCH.--NATIVE SUSPENSION - BRIDGES.--SHOOTING A ZEBRA.--LOSSES BY DESERTION. 32 - - CHAPTER III. - - RETARDED BY RAINS AND OTHER MISHAPS.--GENERAL DESPONDENCY.--DEATH - OF EDWARD POCOCK.--A CHANGE FOR THE BETTER.--A LAND OF - PLENTY.--ARRIVAL AT VICTORIA LAKE.--NATIVE SONG.--AFLOAT ON THE - GREAT LAKE.--TERRIBLE TALES OF THE INHABITANTS.--ENCOUNTERS WITH - THE NATIVES.--THE VICTORIA NILE.--RIPON FALLS.--SPEKE'S - EXPLORATIONS.--THE ALEXANDRA NILE.--ARRIVAL AT KING MTESA'S - COURT.--A MAGNIFICENT RECEPTION.--IN THE MONARCH'S - PRESENCE.--STANLEY'S FIRST OPINIONS OF MTESA. 53 - - CHAPTER IV. - - PERSONAL APPEARANCE OF KING MTESA.--HIS RECEPTION OF MR. - STANLEY.--A NAVAL REVIEW.--STANLEY'S MARKSMANSHIP.--THE KING'S - PALACE.--RUBAGA, THE KING'S CAPITAL.--RECEPTION AT THE - PALACE.--MEETING COLONEL LINANT DE BELLEFONDS.--CONVERTING MTESA - TO CHRISTIANITY.--APPEAL FOR MISSIONARIES TO BE SENT TO - MTESA.--DEPARTURE FOR USUKUMA.--FIGHT WITH THE NATIVES AT BUMBIREH - ISLAND.--SUFFERINGS OF STANLEY AND HIS COMPANIONS ON LAKE - VICTORIA.--A NARROW ESCAPE.--RETURN TO KAGEHYI.--DEATH OF FRED - BARKER.--EMBARKING THE EXPEDITION.--KING LUKONGEH AND HIS PEOPLE. 76 - - CHAPTER V. - - DEPARTURE FOR REFUGE ISLAND.--ARRIVAL IN UGANDA.--MTESA AT - WAR.--STANLEY JOINS HIM AT RIPON FALLS.--A NAVAL BATTLE ON AN - AFRICAN LAKE.--THE WAGANDA REPULSED.--CAPTURE OF A WAVUMA - CHIEF.--STANLEY SAVES THE CHIEF'S LIFE.--HOW STANLEY BROUGHT THE - WAR TO AN END.--HIS WONDERFUL MACHINE FOR DESTROYING THE - WAVUMA.--RETIREMENT OF THE ARMY.--STANLEY'S RETURN TO HIS - CAMP.--EXPEDITION TO MUTA NZEGE.--HOW IT FAILED.--THE EXPEDITION - MARCHES SOUTHWARD.--IN KING RUMANIKA'S COUNTRY.--ARAB TRADERS IN - AFRICA.--HAMED IBRAHIM.--KAFURRO AND LAKE WINDERMERE.--INTERVIEWS - WITH KING RUMANIKA.--EXPLORING LAKE WINDERMERE.--AN UNHAPPY - NIGHT.--IHEMA ISLAND. 102 - - CHAPTER VI. - - STANLEY TELLS ABOUT KING RUMANIKA.--THE KARAGWÉ GEOGRAPHICAL - SOCIETY.--THE KING'S TREASURE-HOUSE.--GOOD-BYE TO HIS - MAJESTY.--HOSTILITY BETWEEN ELEPHANT AND RHINOCEROS.--PLUNDERED - IN USUI.--THE SOURCES OF THE ALEXANDRA NILE.--RETROSPECTION.-- - QUESTIONS OF TOPOGRAPHY.--INSOLENCE OF MANKORONGO.--DEATH OF - "BULL."--TROUBLES WITH THE PETTY KINGS.--INTERVIEW WITH THE - FAMOUS MIRAMBO.--GENERAL APPEARANCE OF THE RENOWNED - AFRICAN.--AN IMPOSING CEREMONY.--BLOOD-BROTHERHOOD.--HOW - GRANT'S CARAVAN WAS PLUNDERED.--MYONGA'S THREATS.--A - COMPROMISE.--AMONG THE WATUTA.--IN SIGHT OF LAKE TANGANIKA.-- - ARRIVAL AT UJIJI. 124 - - CHAPTER VII. - - MR. STANLEY TAKES THE CHAIR.--DESCRIPTION OF UJIJI.--THE ARAB - AND OTHER INHABITANTS.--MARKET SCENES.--LOCAL CURRENCY.--THE - WAJIJI.--LAKE TANGANIKA.--STANLEY'S VOYAGE ON THE LAKE.--RISING - OF THE WATERS.--THE LEGEND OF THE WELL.--HOW THE LAKE WAS - FORMED.--DEPARTURE OF THE EXPEDITION.--SCENERY OF THE COAST.-- - MOUNTAINS WHERE THE SPIRITS DWELL.--SEEKING THE OUTLET OF THE - LAKE.--THE LUKUGA RIVER.--EXPERIMENTS TO FIND A CURRENT.--CURIOUS - HEAD-DRESSES.--RETURN TO UJIJI.--LENGTH AND EXTENT OF LAKE - TANGANIKA. 152 - - CHAPTER VIII. - - STANLEY CONTINUES THE READING.--BAD NEWS AT UJIJI.--SMALL-POX - AND ITS RAVAGES.--DESERTIONS BY WHOLESALE.--DEPARTURE OF THE - EXPEDITION.--CROSSING LAKE TANGANIKA.--TRAVELLERS' TROUBLES.-- - TERRIFYING RUMORS.--PEOPLE WEST OF THE LAKE.--SINGULAR - HEAD-DRESSES--CANNIBALISM.--DESCRIPTION OF AN AFRICAN - VILLAGE.--APPEARANCE OF THE INHABITANTS.--IN MANYEMA.--STORY - ABOUT LIVINGSTONE.--MANYEMA HOUSES.--DONKEYS AS CURIOSITIES.-- - KITETÉ AND HIS BEARD.--THE LUAMA AND THE LUALABA.--ON THE BANKS - OF THE LIVINGSTONE. 174 - - CHAPTER IX. - - DIFFICULTIES OF LIVINGSTONE AND CAMERON WITH THEIR - FOLLOWERS.--PERSONAL APPEARANCE OF TIPPU-TIB.--NEGOTIATIONS - FOR AN ESCORT.--TIPPU-TIB ARRANGES TO GO WITH STANLEY.--THE - WONDERS OF UREGGA.--GORILLAS AND BOA-CONSTRICTORS.--THEIR - REMARKABLE PERFORMANCES.--A NATION OF DWARFS.--HOW STANLEY - DECIDED WHAT ROUTE TO FOLLOW.--HEADS OR TAILS?--"SHALL IT BE - SOUTH OR NORTH?"--SIGNING THE CONTRACT WITH TIPPU-TIB.--A - REMARKABLE ACCIDENT.--ENTERING NYANGWÉ.--LOCATION AND - IMPORTANCE OF THE PLACE.--ITS ARAB RESIDENTS.--MARKET SCENES - AT NYANGWÉ.--READY FOR THE START. 201 - - CHAPTER X. - - DEPARTURE FROM NYANGWÉ.--THE DARK UNKNOWN.--IN THE PRIMEVAL - FOREST.--AN AFRICAN WILDERNESS.--SAVAGE FURNITURE.--TIPPU-TIB'S - DEPENDANTS.--A TOILSOME MARCH.--THE DENSE JUNGLE.--A DEMORALIZED - COLUMN.--AFRICAN WEAPONS.--A VILLAGE BLACKSMITH.--SKULLS OF - SOKOS.--STANLEY'S LAST PAIR OF SHOES.--SNAKES IN THE WAY.--THE - TERRIBLE UNDERGROWTH.--NATIVES OF UREGGA AND THEIR - CHARACTERISTICS.--SKULLS AS STREET ORNAMENTS.--AMONG THE - CANNIBALS.--ON THE RIVER'S BANK.--A SUDDEN INSPIRATION.--THE - TRUE ROAD TO THE SEA.--TIPPU-TIB'S DISCOURAGEMENTS.--ENCOUNTERING - THE NATIVES.--SUCCESSFUL NEGOTIATIONS.--THE EXPEDITION FERRIED - OVER THE RIVER.--CAMPING IN THE WENYA. 221 - - CHAPTER XI. - - HOW STANLEY OBTAINED CANOES.--THE PEOPLE OF UKUSU.--THEIR - HOSTILITY.--A FIGHT AND TERMS OF PEACE.--SEPARATION FROM - TIPPU-TIB.--DEPARTURE "TOWARDS THE UNKNOWN."--A SAD FAREWELL.-- - AMONG THE VINYA-NARA.--THE NATIVES AT STANLEY FALLS.--A FIERCE - BATTLE.--DEFENDING A STOCKADE.--BOATS CAPSIZED IN A TEMPEST AND - MEN DROWNED.--BEGINNING OF THE NEW YEAR.--A BATTLE ON THE - WATER.--MONSTER CANOES.--AMONG THE MWANA NTABA.--THE NATIVES ARE - DEFEATED.--FIRST CATARACT OF STANLEY FALLS.--CAMPED IN A - FORTIFICATION. 243 - - CHAPTER XII. - - ATTACKED BY THE COMBINED FORCES OF THE MWANA NTABA AND BASWA - TRIBES.--THEY ARE REPULSED.--EXPLORING THE FIRST CATARACT.-- - CARRYING AND DRAGGING THE BOATS THROUGH THE FOREST AND AROUND - THE FALLS.--AN ISLAND CAMP.--NATIVE WEAPONS AND UTENSILS.-- - ANOTHER BATTLE.--HOW ZAIDI WAS SAVED FROM A PERILOUS POSITION.-- - CAUGHT IN A NET.--HOW THE NET WAS BROKEN.--FISHES IN THE GREAT - RIVER.--HOW THE OTHER CATARACTS WERE PASSED.--AFLOAT ON SMOOTH - WATER.--A HOSTILE VILLAGE.--ANOTHER BATTLE.--ATTACKED BY A LARGE - FLOTILLA.--A MONSTER BOAT.--A TEMPLE OF IVORY.--NO MARKET FOR - ELEPHANTS' TUSKS.--EVIDENCES OF CANNIBALISM.--FRIENDLY NATIVES - OF RUBUNGA.--PORTUGUESE MUSKETS IN THE HANDS OF THE NATIVES. 259 - - CHAPTER XIII. - - IN URANGI.--A NOISY RECEPTION.--WONDERFUL HEAD-DRESSES.--A - TREACHEROUS ATTACK.--ANIMAL LIFE ALONG THE RIVER.--BIRDS AND - BEASTS OF THE GREAT STREAM.--A BATTLE WITH THE BANGALA.-- - FIRE-ARMS IN THE HANDS OF THE NATIVES.--THE SAVAGES, ALTHOUGH IN - SUPERIOR NUMBERS, ARE REPULSED.--HIGH WINDS AND STORMS.--EFFECT - OF THE CLIMATE ON MR. STANLEY'S HEALTH.--A GREAT TRIBUTARY - RIVER.--FRIENDLY PEOPLE OF IKENGO.--PROVISIONS IN ABUNDANCE.-- - ISLANDS IN THE RIVER.--DEATH OF AMINA.--A MOURNFUL SCENE.--THE - LEVY HILLS.--HIPPOPOTAMUS CREEK.--BOLOBO.--THE KING OF - CHUMBIRI.--A CRAFTY POTENTATE.--HIS DRESS, PIPE, WIVES, AND - SONS.--INCONVENIENT COLLARS.--CURIOUS CUSTOMS. 277 - - CHAPTER XIV. - - TREACHERY OF THE KING'S SONS.--THE GREATEST RASCAL OF AFRICA.--A - PYTHON IN CAMP.--STANLEY POOL.--DOVER CLIFFS.--MANKONEH.--FIRST - SOUND OF THE FALLS.--BARGAINING FOR FOOD.--LOSS OF THE BIG - GOAT.--EXCHANGING CHARMS.--FALL OF THE CONGO FROM NYANGWÉ TO - STANLEY POOL.--GOING AROUND THE GREAT FALL.--DRAGGING THE BOATS - OVERLAND.--GORDON-BENNET RIVER.--"THE CALDRON."--LOSS OF THE - "LONDON TOWN."--POOR KALULU.--HIS DEATH IN THE RIVER.--LOSS OF - MEN BY DROWNING.--SAD SCENES IN CAMP. 300 - - CHAPTER XV. - - THE FRIENDLY BATEKÉ.--GREAT SNAKES.--SOUDI'S STRANGE ADVENTURES.-- - CAPTURED BY HOSTILE NATIVES.--DESCENDING RAPIDS AND FALLS.--LOSS - OF A CANOE.--"WHIRLPOOL RAPIDS."--THE "LADY ALICE" IN PERIL.-- - GAVUBU'S COVE.--"LADY ALICE" RAPIDS.--A PERILOUS DESCENT.--ALARM - OF STANLEY'S PEOPLE.--TRIBUTARY STREAMS.--PANIC AMONG THE - CANOE-MEN.--NATIVE VILLAGES.--INKISI FALLS.--TUCKEY'S CATARACT.-- - A ROAD OVER A MOUNTAIN.--AMONG THE BABWENDÉ.--AFRICAN MARKETS.-- - TRADING AMONG THE TRIBES.--SHOELESS TRAVELLERS.--EXPERIMENTS IN - COOKING.--LIMITED STOCK OF PROVISIONS.--CENTRAL AFRICAN ANTS.-- - "JIGGAS."--DANGERS OF UNPROTECTED FEET. 317 - - CHAPTER XVI. - - A DISAPPOINTMENT.--NOT TUCKEY'S FURTHEST.--BUILDING NEW CANOES.-- - THE "LIVINGSTONE," "STANLEY," AND "JASON."--FALLS BELOW INKISI.-- - FRANK POCOCK DROWNED.--STANLEY'S GRIEF.--"IN MEMORIAM."--MUTINY - IN CAMP.--HOW IT WAS QUELLED.--LOSS OF THE "LIVINGSTONE."--THE - CHIEF CARPENTER DROWNED.--ISANGILA CATARACT.--TUCKEY'S SECOND - SANGALLA.--ABANDONING THE BOATS.--OVERLAND TO BOMA.--THE - EXPEDITION STARVING.--A LETTER ASKING HELP.--VOLUNTEER COURIERS.-- - DELAYS AT STARTING.--VAIN EFFORTS TO BUY FOOD.--A DREARY MARCH.-- - SUFFERINGS OF STANLEY'S PEOPLE.--THE LEADER'S ANXIETY. 335 - - CHAPTER XVII. - - THE WEARY MARCH RESUMED.--RETURN OF THE MESSENGERS.--ARRIVAL OF - RELIEF.--SCENE IN CAMP.--DISTRIBUTION OF PROVISIONS.--THE SONG OF - JOY.--A WELCOME LETTER.--"ENOUGH NOW: FALL TO."--PERSONAL - LUXURIES FOR THE LEADER.--"PALE ALE! SHERRY! PORT WINE! CHAMPAGNE! - TEA! COFFEE! WHITE SUGAR! WHEATEN BREAD!"--STANLEY'S REPLY TO THE - GENEROUS STRANGERS.--SUMMARY PUNISHMENT FOR THEFT.--GREETING - CIVILIZATION.--RECEPTION BY WHITE MEN.--THE FREEDOM OF BOMA.-- - LIFTED INTO THE HAMMOCK.--CHARACTERISTICS OF BOMA.--A BANQUET AND - FAREWELL.--PONTA DA LENHA.--OUT ON THE OCEAN.--ADIEU TO THE CONGO. 351 - - CHAPTER XVIII. - - ARRIVAL AT KABINDA.--WEST AFRICAN MERCHANTS.--DEATH AMONG THE - WANGWANA.--ILLNESS AMONG THE PEOPLE OF THE EXPEDITION.--STANLEY'S - ANXIETY FOR HIS FOLLOWERS.--THEIR FAILING HEALTH.--ENCOURAGING - THEM WITH WORDS AND KIND TREATMENT.--THE BANE OF IDLENESS.-- - LEAVING KABINDA.--SAN PAULO DE LOANDA.--KINDNESS OF THE PORTUGUESE - OFFICIALS.--H. B. MAJESTY'S SHIP "INDUSTRY."--CARRIED TO THE CAPE - OF GOOD HOPE.--THE WANGWANA SEE A "FIRE-CARRIAGE."--TO NATAL AND - ZANZIBAR.--RECEPTION.--DISBANDING THE EXPEDITION.--AFFECTING - SCENES.--STANLEY'S TRIBUTE TO HIS FOLLOWERS. 365 - - CHAPTER XIX. - - THE LAST MEETING ON BOARD THE "EIDER."--FOUNDING THE FREE STATE OF - CONGO.--MR. STANLEY'S LATER WORK ON THE GREAT RIVER.--BUILDING - ROADS AND ESTABLISHING STATIONS.--MAKING PEACE WITH THE NATIVES.-- - BULA MATARI.--RESOURCES OF THE CONGO VALLEY.--STANLEY'S LATEST - BOOK.--STEAMERS ON THE RIVER.--THE CONGO RAILWAY.--STANLEY'S - PRESENT MISSION IN AFRICA.--EMIN PASHA AND HIS WORK.--HOW STANLEY - PROPOSES TO RELIEVE HIM.--DR. SCHNITZLER.--BEY OR PASHA?--MWANGA, - KING OF UGANDA.--HIS HOSTILITY TO WHITE MEN.--KILLING BISHOP - HANNINGTON.--THE EGYPTIAN EQUATORIAL PROVINCE.--LETTER FROM - STANLEY.--HIS PLANS FOR THE RELIEF EXPEDITION.--TIPPU-TIB AND HIS - MEN.--FROM ZANZIBAR TO THE CONGO. 381 - - CHAPTER XX. - - MORE AFRICAN STUDIES.--MASAI LAND.--EARLY HISTORY OF THE MOMBASA - COAST.--MOUNT KILIMANJARO.--ITS DISCOVERERS AND EXPLORERS.-- - REBMANN'S UMBRELLA.--THOMSON'S EXPEDITION AND ITS OBJECT.--FRERE - TOWN AND MOMBASA.--JOURNEY TO MASAI LAND.--HOSTILITY OF THE - NATIVES.--NARROW ESCAPES.--MASAI WARRIORS AND THEIR OCCUPATIONS.-- - MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE PEOPLE.--THOMSON AS A MAGICIAN.-- - JOHNSTON'S KILIMANJARO EXPEDITION.--HEIGHT AND PECULIARITIES OF - THE GREAT MOUNTAIN.--MANDARA AND HIS COURT.--SLAVE-TRADING.--MASAI - WOMEN.--SURROUNDED BY LIONS.--BISHOP HANNINGTON.--STORY OF HIS - DEATH IN UGANDA. 410 - - CHAPTER XXI. - - STANLEY'S HUNTING ADVENTURES.--AFRICA THE FIELD FOR THE - SPORTSMAN.--HUNTING IN SOUTH AFRICA.--NIGHT-SHOOTING AT - WATER-HOLES AND SPRINGS.--ABUNDANCE OF GAME.--DANGER OF THIS KIND - OF SPORT.--LIONS AND ELEPHANTS.--MAN-EATING LIONS.--IN THE JAWS - OF A LION.--DR. LIVINGSTONE'S NARROW ESCAPE.--THE HOPO, OR - GAME-TRAP ON A LARGE SCALE.--DU CHAILLU AND HIS ADVENTURES.-- - SHOOTING THE GORILLA.--RESEMBLANCE OF THE GORILLA TO MAN.-- - PRODIGIOUS STRENGTH OF THE GORILLA.--HOW HE IS HUNTED.--THE END. 442 - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS. - - - A Scene on the Congo _Frontispiece._ - Map of Africa showing Route from Zanzibar to Boma _Front Cover._ - Map of Emin Pasha's Province and the Congo Routes _Back Cover._ - Portrait of Henry M. Stanley 12 - Sandy Hook from Navesink Light-house 13 - Stanley in Abyssinia 15 - Musicians of the Dark Continent 16 - Village where Dr. Livingstone Died 18 - James Gordon Bennett 19 - The _Lady Alice_, in Sections 20 - Candidates for Service with Stanley 21 - View of a Portion of the Sea-front of Zanzibar, from the Water - Battery to Shangani Point 23 - Zanzibar, from the Sea 23 - Red Cliffs behind Universities Mission, Zanzibar 24 - View from the Roof of Mr. Augustus Sparhawk's House 25 - The British Consulate at Zanzibar 26 - Seyyid Barghash 27 - A Zanzibar Nurse-maid 28 - Lady of Zanzibar Reading an Arabic Manuscript 29 - Native Water-carrier, Zanzibar 30 - Hindoo Merchant of Zanzibar 31 - Negro Nurse-maid, Zanzibar 33 - A Zanzibar Bride 34 - Window of an Arab House, Zanzibar 35 - Coxswain Uledi, and Manwa Sera, Chief Captain 36 - A Merchant of Zanzibar 37 - Tarya Topan 39 - Universities Mission at Mbwenni, Zanzibar 40 - Harem in the House of the Secretary of the Sultan of Zanzibar 41 - "Towards the Dark Continent." 42 - Scene in Bagamoyo 43 - Wife of Manwa Sera 45 - A Leading Citizen of Bagamoyo 46 - The Expedition at Rosako 47 - View from the Village of Mamboya 49 - Our Camp at Mpwapwa 50 - Detective and Assistants 51 - An African Belle 52 - An African Blacksmith's-shop 53 - Funeral of Edward Pocock: View of Our Camp 55 - In Memoriam of Edward Pocock 56 - An African Lamb 56 - Unyamwezi Porter 57 - View of Kagehyi from the Edge of the Lake 59 - Frank Pocock 60 - African Arms and Ornaments 61 - View near Victoria Lake 62 - Dwellers on the Shore of the Lake 63 - The _Lady Alice_ at Bridge Island, Victoria Nyanza 64 - View of the Bay leading to Rugedzi Channel from Kigoma, near - Kisorya, South Side of Ukerewé, Coast of Speke Gulf 65 - View of Ripon Falls from the Uganda Side 67 - Dressed for Cold Weather 68 - The Victoria Nile, North of Ripon Falls, Rushing towards Unyoro, - from the Usoga Side of the Falls 69 - Reception by King Mtesa's Body-guard at Usavara 71 - Waiting Orders 72 - Sekebobo, Chief of Chagwé. Mtesa, the Emperor of Uganda. - Chambarango, the Chief. Pokino, the Prime-minister. Other - Chiefs. 73 - Dwarf at the King's Court 74 - The King's Dinner-dish 76 - Fish found in Lake Victoria 78 - Rubaga, the Capital of the King of Uganda 79 - Fleet of the King of Uganda, Ready for War 81 - Audience-hall of the Palace at Rubaga 82 - Wooden Kettle-drum 83 - African Hatchet, Spade, and Adze 83 - Head of a "Madoqua"--Species of Antelope 85 - Shugrangu House, an African Mission Station, with Grave of Mrs. - Livingstone 87 - Warriors of the Upper Nile Region 89 - Reception at Bumbireh Island, Victoria Nyanza 91 - Hut and Granary on the Island 93 - A Woman of the Island 94 - Village Enclosing Cattle 95 - Heads of Spears 96 - Central African Goat 97 - Cairn Erected to the Memory of Frederick Barker: Majita and Ururi - Mountains in the Distance, across Speke Gulf 98 - At the Landing-place of Msossi, King Lukongeh's Capital 99 - Store-house for Grain 99 - Wakerewé Stool 100 - Wakerewé Dwelling-house 100 - Fish-nets 100 - Wakerewé Canoes 100 - Wakerewé Warrior 100 - Strange Granite Rocks of Wezi Island, Midway between Usukuma and - Ukerewé 101 - Usukuma Canoe 102 - Island called Elephant Rock 103 - Mtesa's Camp, Ingira 104 - One of the Great Naval Battles between the Waganda and the Wavuma, - in the Channel between Ingira Island and Cape Nakaranga 105 - Small Canoe 106 - View of Country near Mtesa's Camp 106 - The Floating Fortlet Moving towards Ingira 107 - Uganda War Canoe 109 - Wangwana Hut in Camp. Hut at Jinja 110 - Head of Central African Hartebeest 110 - The Camp of the Expedition 111 - Mount Edwin Arnold 112 - Marching towards Muta Nzege: Mount Gordon-Bennett in the Distance 113 - Grass-roofed Hut, Unyoro 114 - Native Hut, Karagwé 114 - View near Kafurro 115 - Central African Antelope, Karagwé 116 - View of Ufumbiro Mountains from Mount near Mtagata Hot Springs 117 - Rumanika's Treasure-house 118 - A Spearman of Karagwé 119 - Mountain Scene in Karagwé 119 - Boat on Lake Windermere 120 - Kagera Skiff 121 - Native Woman of Fashion 121 - Ihema Hut 122 - A Native of Uhha 122 - Boat of Lake Ihema 122 - Hut of Uganda 123 - Small Tembé of Ugogo 123 - House of an Arab Merchant near Rumanika's Village 124 - On the Way to the Meeting 125 - Ground-plan of King's House 126 - Treasure-house, Arms, and Treasures of Rumanika 127 - The Expedition Traversing the Valley 129 - Pottery in Usui 130 - A Village in Western Usui 132 - Camp of an Arab Merchant 133 - "Bull." 135 - A Hut and its Frame 136 - View in the Interior of an African Village 137 - Serombo Huts 138 - War-Drum and Idol 139 - A "Ruga-Ruga," one of Mirambo's Patriots 139 - Hillside House in Mirambo's Country 140 - Unyamwezi Chief and his Wife 141 - Shield and Drum 142 - Color-party of an English Expedition in Africa 143 - Mountains along the Route of the Expedition 145 - Fashionable Hair-dressing 147 - One of the Watuta 148 - Bow, Spears, Hatchets, and Arrow-Heads 149 - Idols Sheltered from the Rain 150 - Arab House near Ujiji 150 - Whistle, Pillow, and Hatchet 151 - Head of Uguhha Woman 152 - Ujiji, looking North from the Market-place, Viewed from the Roof - of our Tembé at Ujiji 153 - Arab Dhow at Ujiji 154 - A Native of Rua, who was a Visitor at Ujiji 155 - Dress and Tattooing of a Native of Uguhha 156 - Charms Worn by the Wajiji 157 - A River Ferry-boat 158 - Heads of Natives 158 - The Wazaramo Tribe 159 - Rawlinson Mountains 161 - Head-dress and Hatchet 162 - Brother Rocks 163 - The Extreme Southern Reach of Lake Tanganika 164 - Mtombwa 165 - Kungwé Peaks 166 - The "High Places" of the Spirit Mtombwa: View of Mtombwa Urungu 167 - Mount Murumbi, near Lukuga Creek 168 - Ubujwé Head-dress 170 - Uguha Head-dress 170 - Village Scene.--Dwellings and Grain-houses 171 - A Woman of Uguha 172 - Uhyeya Head-dress 172 - Spirit Island, Lake Tanganika 172 - Sketch Near Ujiji 173 - In Council: The Courtyard of Our Tembé at Ujiji 175 - Central African Goat 176 - M'Sehazy Haven and Camp, at the Mouth of M'Sehazy River 177 - Huts and Store-house 179 - Sub-Chief, West of Lake Tanganika 180 - Heads of Men of Manyema 181 - Natives of Ubujwé 181 - A Native of Uhyeya 182 - One of the Wahyeya of Uhombo. (Back View) 182 - A Valley among the Hills 183 - Going a-fishing 184 - Village Forge and Idol 185 - Ready for Fighting 186 - African Owls 188 - A Village in Manyema 189 - A Youth of East Manyema 190 - A Manyema Adult 190 - The Valley of Mabaro 191 - A Young Woman of East Manyema 192 - Village Scene in Southeast Manyema 193 - House of an Arab Merchant 195 - House of a Manyema Chief 196 - Kiteté, The Chief of Mpungu 198 - Village near Kabungwé 199 - Native Houses at Mtuyu 200 - Ants'-nest in Manyema 200 - Hill and Village on the Road to Nyangwé 201 - Waiting to be Photographed 203 - A Young "Soko" (Gorilla) 204 - Blacksmiths at Work 205 - Native Trap for Game 206 - Canoes on the River 207 - "Heads for the North and the Lualaba; Tails for the South and - Katanga." 208 - A Follower of Tippu-Tib 209 - A Canoe of the Wenya, or Wagenya, Fishermen 210 - Pot-pourri 211 - View in Nyangwé 212 - A Bowman 213 - Camp Scene 214 - Escort of Gunners and Spearmen 215 - Slave Offered in the Market 217 - Nyangwé Heads 217 - Nyangwé Pottery 218 - Muini Dugumbi's Followers Attacking Nyangwé 219 - Antelope of the Nyangwé Region 220 - Near Nyangwé 221 - Open Country before Reaching the Forest 223 - Tippu-Tib's Body Servants 224 - Jumah 225 - The Edge of the Forest 227 - Water-bottles 228 - Stool of Uregga 229 - Uregga House 229 - Spoons of Uregga 229 - Uregga Spear 229 - Cane Settee 229 - Bench 230 - Back-rest 230 - An African Fez of Leopard-skin 230 - Prickles of the Acacia Plant 231 - An African Ant 231 - Marabouts, Storks, and Pelicans in the Forest Lakes 232 - A Forge and Smithy at Wane-Kirumbu, Uregga 233 - A Young "Soko" Sitting for his Portrait 235 - Head of the Gorilla 236 - Backgammon Tray 236 - In Full Style 237 - A Tributary River 239 - Wangwana Women 240 - Some of the People on Shore 241 - Canoes in the Mouth of the Ruiki River 243 - War-hatchet of Ukusu 244 - Stool of Ukusu 244 - Stew-pot of the Wahika 244 - Encounter with a Gorilla 245 - A House of Two Rooms 246 - Canoe Scoop 247 - Scoops 247 - "Towards the Unknown." 247 - Coil of Plaited Rope, Central Africa 248 - War-drums of the Tribes of the Upper Livingstone 249 - Village Scene 250 - Musical Instruments and Mode of Playing 251 - Gorillas and Nest 253 - Native Pipe 254 - Scene on a Tributary of the Great River--Launching a Canoe 255 - Mwana Ntaba Canoe (The "Crocodile") 256 - Village near the Forest 257 - Native Corn-magazine 258 - African Stool 259 - Spear-head 260 - The Kooloo-Kamba, or Long-eared Soko 261 - A Baswa Knife 262 - Style of Knives 262 - Baswa Basket and Cover 262 - Shooting a Crocodile at the Rapids 263 - Cavern near Stanley Falls 264 - The Desperate Situation of Zaidi, and his Rescue by Uledi, the - Coxswain of the Boat 265 - The Seventh Cataract, Stanley Falls 266 - Pike--Stanley Falls 266 - An African Suspension-bridge 267 - Fish--Seventh Cataract, Stanley Falls 268 - Baswa Palm-oil Jar and Palm-wine Cooler 268 - Mouth of Drum 269 - Wooden Signal-drum of the Wenya, or Wagenya, and the Tribes on - the Livingstone 269 - Drumsticks--Knobs being of India-rubber 269 - Shields of Ituka People 269 - Fish--Stanley Falls 270 - Monster Canoe 271 - Native Spade 272 - The Fight below the Confluence of the Aruwimi and the Livingstone - Rivers 273 - Spear, Isangi 274 - Knives, Rubunga 274 - Rings for Protecting the Arm 275 - Rubunga Blacksmiths 276 - Double Iron Bells of Urangi 277 - Beak of the Balinæceps Rex 278 - The Balinæceps Rex 279 - A Cannibal Chief 281 - The Attack of the Sixty-three Canoes of the Piratical Bangala 283 - Poisoned Arrows 284 - A Crocodile Hunt 285 - Elephant Hunters on the Congo 287 - African Knife and Axes 288 - Spears, and Shield of Elephant-hide 289 - Spectators among the Trees 291 - Encounter with a Hippopotamus 295 - A Present from Chumbiri 296 - The King of Chumbiri 296 - Great Pipe of King of Chumbiri 297 - One of the King's Wives at Chumbiri 298 - A Bowman 299 - Son of the King of Chumbiri 300 - A Python in an African Forest 301 - The Northern End of Stanley Pool 302 - Map of Stanley Pool 303 - One of the King's Warriors 304 - African Reclining-Chair 305 - A Present from Itsi 306 - Floating Island in Stanley Pool 308 - Village in the Valley of the Congo 309 - Native Pottery 310 - View of the Right Branch, First Cataract, of the Livingstone - Falls, from Four Miles below Juemba Island 311 - Over Rocky Point close to Gampa's 312 - At Work Passing the Lower End of the First Cataract of the - Livingstone Falls, near Rocky Island 313 - African Pipes 314 - Death of Kalulu 315 - One of Gampa's Men 316 - Village Idols 317 - Hilly Regions back from the River 319 - _Lady Alice_ over the Falls 321 - Native Mill for Grinding Corn 322 - Falls on a Tributary Stream 323 - An Upland Stream and Native Bridge 324 - The Nkenké River Entering the Livingstone below the _Lady Alice_ - Rapids 325 - Mode of Passing Boats over the Falls 327 - Village on the Table-land 329 - A Figure in the Market-place 330 - African Market Scene 331 - View in the Babwendé Country 332 - Nyitti, an African Potato 333 - Ugogo Cooking-pot 334 - Wild Bull of Equatorial Africa 334 - The New Canoes, the _Livingstone_ and the _Stanley_ 336 - Cutting out the New _Livingstone_ Canoe 337 - In Memoriam: Francis John Pocock 338 - Fall of the Edwin Arnold River into the Pocock Basin 339 - The Chief Carpenter Carried over Zinga Fall 340 - The Masassa Falls, and the Entrance into Pocock Basin, or - Bolobolo Pool 341 - Camp at Kilolo, above Isangila Falls 342 - View from the Table-land 343 - "I want Rum." 345 - Village Scene, with Granary in Foreground 346 - In the Valley 347 - Ant-hills on the Road to Boma 348 - One of the Guides 349 - Catching Ants for Food 350 - Mbinda Cemetery 351 - In the Suburbs of Boma 352 - Outbuildings of an African Factory 353 - Escort of the Caravan 354 - Outside the Village 356 - View in the Open Country 357 - Wooden Idol 358 - The White-fronted Wild Hog of Central Africa 359 - The Hammock on the West Coast of Africa 360 - The Circumnavigators of the Victoria Nyanza and Lake Tanganika, - and Explorers of the Alexandra Nile and Livingstone (Congo) - River 361 - Native Belles on the West Coast 362 - Native Blacksmiths near Boma 363 - At Rest: Stanley's Quarters at Kabinda by the Sea 365 - Expedition at Kabinda 366 - Group of Mr. Stanley's Followers at Kabinda, West Coast of - Africa, just after Crossing the "Dark Continent." 367 - Scenery on the West Coast of Africa 368 - A Dandy of San Paulo de Loanda 369 - View of San Paulo de Loanda--The Fort of San Miguel on the Right 371 - Dhows in the Harbor of Zanzibar 372 - The Recuperated and Reclad Expedition as it Appeared at Admiralty - House, Simon's Town, after our Arrival on H. M. S. _Industry_ 373 - The Women of the Expedition 377 - Stanley, as he Left England for Africa in 1874 378 - Stanley, as he Reached Zanzibar in 1877 379 - Ngahma, a Congo Chief 382 - View of Vivi, from the Isangila Road 383 - Port of Leopoldville 384 - A Photograph 385 - A Congo House 386 - The Effect of Civilization 387 - A Native of the Lower Congo 388 - Emin Pasha 391 - Blacksmith's Forge and Bellows 392 - Some of Emin Pasha's Irregular Troops 393 - Ivory-eating Squirrel, Central Africa 394 - Battle between Native Warriors and Egyptian Troops 395 - Native Warrior in Emin Pasha's Province 396 - The King of Unyora and his Great Chiefs 397 - Native War-dance 399 - Breed of Cattle in Emin Pasha's Province 400 - Lado, Capital of Egyptian Equatorial Province 401 - Schooli Warrior, Egyptian Equatorial Province 402 - Fortified Village near Lado 403 - Ismaen Abou Hatab, Trusted Officer of Emin Pasha 404 - Village in the Valley of the Bengo 405 - A Traveller's Caravan near Wadelay 407 - A Dyoor, Subject of Emin Pasha 408 - Chief of Coast Tribe in Portuguese Territory 409 - Tattooing among the Coast Natives 410 - Doorway of a House at Mombasa 411 - Heads of Coast Natives 413 - View of Mombasa 415 - Camp of an English Explorer in Africa 417 - Slave Caravans on the Road 419 - Slaves Left to Die 421 - A Spring in the Desert 423 - A Wedding-dance 424 - Mandara's Left Ear 426 - A Corner of Mr. Johnston's Settlement 427 - View of Kilimanjaro 429 - Camp Scene 430 - African Adjutants 432 - A Well-stocked Hunting-ground 433 - Plain and Mountains in Masai Land 434 - Ear-stretchers and Ear-ornaments 436 - A Masai Warrior 437 - Masai Married Woman, with Painted Face 438 - Uganda Head-dress 440 - Place where Bishop Hannington was Imprisoned and Killed 441 - African Oryx, or Gemsbok 442 - South African Hunting--in Camp 443 - Night Hunting--Elephants Coming to Drink 445 - An African Serenade 446 - Close Shave by an Elephant 447 - Death-grapple with a Lion 448 - Rhinoceros and Dogs 450 - Dr. Livingstone in the Lion's Grasp 451 - The Hopo, or Trap for Driving Game 453 - Paul du Chaillu in Africa 454 - Gorilla Hunting--Mother and Young at Play 455 - Du Chaillu's First Gorilla 457 - Head of Kooloo-Kamba 458 - Ear of Kooloo-Kamba 458 - Du Chaillu Ascending an African River 459 - Gorilla Skull 461 - Human Skull 461 - Skeletons of Man and the Gorilla 462 - A Young Gorilla--Du Chaillu's Captive 463 - - - - -[Illustration: Henry Stanley] - - - - -THE BOY TRAVELLERS - -ON - -THE CONGO. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -CROSSING THE ATLANTIC OCEAN WITH STANLEY.--"THROUGH THE DARK -CONTINENT."--AN IMPROMPTU GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY.--PERSONAL APPEARANCE OF -STANLEY.--COMMENTS UPON HIM BY FRANK AND FRED.--HOW THE GEOGRAPHICAL -SOCIETY WAS ORGANIZED.--READING STANLEY'S BOOK.--STANLEY'S -DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND FOR ZANZIBAR.--JOINT ENTERPRISE OF TWO -NEWSPAPERS.--PREPARATIONS FOR THE EXPEDITION.--THE _LADY ALICE_.--BARKER -AND THE POCOCKS.--ZANZIBAR.--PRINCE BARGHASH.--INHABITANTS OF -ZANZIBAR.--THE WANGWANA. - - -At eight o'clock on the morning of December 15, 1886, the magnificent -steamer _Eider_, of the North German Lloyds, left her dock in New York -harbor for a voyage to Southampton and Bremen. Among the passengers that -gathered on her deck to wave farewell to friends on shore was one whose -name has become famous throughout the civilized world for the great work -he has performed in exploring the African continent and opening it to -commerce and Christianizing influences. - -That man, it is hardly necessary to say, was HENRY M. STANLEY. - -Near him stood a group of three individuals who will be recognized by -many of our readers. They were Doctor Bronson and his nephews, Frank -Bassett and Fred Bronson, whose adventures have been recorded in -previous volumes.[1] - -[1] "The Boy Travellers in the Far East," in China, Japan, Siam, Java, -Ceylon, India, Egypt, the Holy Land, Africa; "The Boy Travellers in -South America;" "The Boy Travellers in the Russian Empire." Seven -volumes, published by Harper & Brothers, New York. - -[Illustration: SANDY HOOK FROM NAVESINK LIGHT-HOUSE.] - -Slowly the great steamer made her way among the ships at anchor in the -harbor. She passed the Narrows, then entered the Lower Bay, and, winding -through the channel between Sandy Hook and Coney Island, was soon upon -the open ocean. Near the Sandy Hook light-ship she stopped her engines -sufficiently long to discharge her pilot, and then, with her prow turned -to the eastward, she dashed away on her course at full speed. Day by day -and night by night the tireless engines throbbed and pulsated, but never -for a moment ceased their toil till the _Eider_ was off Southampton, -more than three thousand miles from her starting-point. - -Doctor Bronson was acquainted with Mr. Stanley, and soon after the -steamer left the dock the two gentlemen were in conversation. After a -little while the doctor introduced his nephews, who were warmly greeted -by the great explorer; he had read of their journeys in the far East and -in other lands, and expressed his pleasure at meeting them personally. - -As for Frank and Fred, they were overjoyed at the introduction and the -cordial manner in which they were received. They thanked Mr. Stanley for -the kind words he had used in speaking of their travels, which had been -of little consequence compared with his own. Frank added that he hoped -some day to be able to cross the African continent; the way had been -opened by Mr. Stanley, and, with the facilities which the latter had -given to travellers, the journey would be far easier of accomplishment -than it was twenty or even ten years ago. - -Then followed a desultory conversation, of which no record has been -preserved; other passengers came up to speak to Mr. Stanley, and the -party separated. As the steamer passed into the open ocean most of the -people on deck disappeared below for the double reason that there was a -cold wind from the eastward and--breakfast was on the table. - -"What a charming man Mr. Stanley is!" Fred remarked, as soon as they had -withdrawn from the group. - -"Yes," replied his cousin, "and so different from what I expected he -would be. He is dignified without being haughty, and friendly without -familiarity. Before the introduction I was afraid to meet him, but found -myself quite at ease before we had been talking a minute. I'm not -surprised to hear how much those who know him are attached to him, nor -at the influence he possesses over the people among whom his great work -has been performed." - -[Illustration: STANLEY IN ABYSSINIA.] - -"Just think what a career he has had," continued Frank. "After various -adventures as a newspaper correspondent in Spain, Abyssinia, Ashantee, -and other countries, he was sent by the editor of the New York _Herald_ -to find Dr. Livingstone in the interior of Africa. He found the famous -missionary; but when he came back, and told the story of what he had -done, a great many people refused to believe him, because they -considered the feat impossible for a newspaper correspondent. He came -out of Africa at the same point where he entered it, and it was said by -some that he had never ventured farther than a few miles from the coast. -This made him angry, and the next time he went on a tour of exploration -in Africa he made sure that the same criticism would be impossible." - -"Yes, indeed!" responded Fred. "He went into the African wilderness at -Bagomoya, on the east side of the continent, and came out at the mouth -of the Congo, away over on the other side. He descended that great -river, which no white man had ever done before him, and passed through -dangers and difficulties such as few travellers of modern times have -known. And, besides--" - -Before Fred could finish the sentence he had begun the Doctor joined -them, and asked Frank where he had put the parcel of books that they had -selected to read during the voyage. - -"It is in our room," the youth replied, "and ready to be opened whenever -we want any of the books. We will arrange our things this forenoon, and -I will open the parcel at once." - -"You selected Mr. Stanley's book, 'Through the Dark Continent,' I -believe," Doctor Bronson continued, "and I think you had better bring -that out first. Now that Mr. Stanley is with us, you will read it again -with much greater interest than before." - -The youths were pleased with the suggestion, which they accepted at -once. Fred laughingly remarked that there might be danger of a quarrel -between them as to who should have the first privilege of reading the -book. Frank thought they could get over the difficulty by dividing the -two volumes between them, but he admitted that the one who read the -second volume in advance of the first would be likely to have his mind -confused as to the exact course of the exploration which the book -described. - -[Illustration: MUSICIANS OF THE DARK CONTINENT.] - -Doctor Bronson said he was reminded of an anecdote he once heard about -a man who always read books with a mark, which he carefully inserted at -the end of each reading. He was going through the "Life of Napoleon" at -one time, and for three evenings in succession his room-mate slyly set -back the mark to the starting-point. At the end of the third evening he -asked the reader what he thought of Napoleon. - -"He was a most wonderful man," was the reply; "in three days he crossed -the Alps three times with his whole army, and went the same way every -time." - -While the party were laughing over the anecdote Mr. Stanley came up, and -said he wished to have a share in the fun. The Doctor repeated the -story, and explained how it had been called to his mind. - -"Well," said Mr. Stanley, "it would be very unfortunate for Masters -Frank and Fred to get the story of the Dark Continent doubled up in the -manner you suggest. I propose that they shall study it together, one -reading aloud to the other, and, as the entire book is too much for the -limited time of this voyage, they will be obliged to omit portions of -chapters here and there. The readings can take place daily during the -afternoon and evening, and the youth who is to read can devote the -forenoon to selecting the parts of the chapters he will suppress and -those which are to be given to the listeners. I will assist him in his -selections from time to time, and, with due diligence, the book will be -finished before we reach Southampton." - -It was unanimously voted that the plan was an excellent one, and the -boys immediately proceeded to carry it out. The volumes were brought -forth, and Frank retired to a corner of the saloon to make a selection -for the first afternoon's reading. Mr. Stanley sat with him a short -time, marking several pages and paragraphs, and then went on deck, where -he joined Doctor Bronson in a brief promenade. Meantime Fred busied -himself with an examination of several other books of African travel; he -was evidently familiar with their contents, as he ran through the pages -with great rapidity, and marked numerous passages, with the evident -intention of referring to them in the course of the time devoted to what -we may call the public readings. - -There was an intermission of labor towards the middle of the day, and at -this time Frank and Fred made the acquaintance of two or three other -youths of about their age. When the latter learned of the proposed -scheme, they asked permission to be allowed to hear how the Dark -Continent was traversed, and their request was readily granted. -Consequently the audience that assembled in the afternoon comprised some -six or eight persons, including Mr. Stanley and Doctor Bronson. Neither -of the gentlemen remained there through the whole afternoon, partly for -the reason that they were both familiar with the narrative and partly -because they did not wish to seem otherwise than confident that the boys -knew how to manage matters for themselves. This kind of work was not -altogether new to Frank and Fred, as many of our readers are aware; and -in all their previous experiences they had acquitted themselves -admirably. - -When everything was ready Frank began with the opening chapter of -"Through the Dark Continent" and read as follows: - - "While returning to England in April, 1874, from the Ashantee War, - the news reached me that Livingstone was dead--that his body was on - its way to England! - - [Illustration: VILLAGE WHERE DR. LIVINGSTONE DIED.] - - "Livingstone had then fallen! He was dead! He had died by the - shores of Lake Bemba, on the threshold of the dark region he had - wished to explore! The work he had promised me to perform was only - begun when death overtook him! - - "The effect which this news had upon me, after the first shock had - passed away, was to fire me with a resolution to complete his work, - to be, if God willed it, the next martyr to geographical science, - or, if my life was to be spared, to clear up not only the secrets - of the Great River throughout its course, but also all that - remained still problematic and incomplete of the discoveries of - Burton and Speke, and Speke and Grant. - - "The solemn day of the burial of the body of my great friend - arrived. I was one of the pall-bearers in Westminster Abbey, and - when I had seen the coffin lowered into the grave, and had heard - the first handful of earth thrown over it, I walked away sorrowing - over the fate of David Livingstone. - - "Soon after this I was passing by an old book-shop, and observed a - volume bearing the singular title of 'How to Observe.' Upon opening - it, I perceived it contained tolerably clear instructions of 'how - and what to observe.' It was very interesting, and it whetted my - desire to know more; it led me to purchase quite an extensive - library of books upon Africa, its geography, geology, botany, and - ethnology. I thus became possessed of over one hundred and thirty - books upon Africa, which I studied with the zeal of one who had a - living interest in the subject, and with the understanding of one - who had been already four times on that continent. I knew what had - been accomplished by African explorers, and I knew how much of the - dark interior was still unknown to the world. Until late hours I - sat up, inventing and planning, sketching out routes, laying out - lengthy lines of possible exploration, noting many suggestions - which the continued study of my project created. I also drew up - lists of instruments and other paraphernalia that would be required - to map, lay out, and describe the new regions to be traversed. - - "I had strolled over one day to the office of the _Daily - Telegraph_, full of the subject. While I was discussing - journalistic enterprise in general with one of the staff, the - editor entered. We spoke of Livingstone and the unfinished task - remaining behind him. In reply to an eager remark which I made, he - asked: - - "'Could you, and would you, complete the work? And what is there to - do?' - - "I answered: - - "The outlet of Lake Tanganika is undiscovered. We know nothing - scarcely--except what Speke has sketched out--of Lake Victoria; we - do not even know whether it consists of one or many lakes, and - therefore the sources of the Nile are still unknown. Moreover, the - western half of the African continent is still a white blank.' - - "'Do you think you can settle all this, if we commission you?' - - "'While I live there will be something done. If I survive the time - required to perform all the work, all shall be done.' - - [Illustration: JAMES GORDON BENNETT.] - - "The matter was for the moment suspended, because Mr. James Gordon - Bennett, of the New York _Herald_, had prior claims on my services. - - "A telegram was despatched to New York to him: 'Would he join the - _Daily Telegraph_ in sending Stanley out to Africa, to complete the - discoveries of Speke, Burton, and Livingstone?' and, within - twenty-four hours, my 'new mission' to Africa was determined on as - a joint expedition, by the laconic answer which the cable flashed - under the Atlantic: 'Yes; Bennett.' - - "A few days before I departed for Africa, the _Daily Telegraph_ - announced in a leading article that its proprietors had united with - Mr. James Gordon Bennett in organizing an expedition of African - discovery, under the command of Mr. Henry M. Stanley. 'The purpose - of the enterprise,' it said, 'is to complete the work left - unfinished by the lamented death of Dr. Livingstone; to solve, if - possible, the remaining problems of the geography of Central - Africa; and to investigate and report upon the haunts of the - slave-traders.... He will represent the two nations whose common - interest in the regeneration of Africa was so well illustrated when - the lost English explorer was rediscovered by the energetic - American correspondent. In that memorable journey, Mr. Stanley - displayed the best qualities of an African traveller; and with no - inconsiderable resources at his disposal to reinforce his own - complete acquaintance with the conditions of African travel, it may - be hoped that very important results will accrue from this - undertaking to the advantage of science, humanity, and - civilization.' - - "Two weeks were allowed me for purchasing boats--a yawl, a gig, and - a barge--for giving orders for pontoons, and purchasing equipment, - guns, ammunition, rope, saddles, medical stores, and provisions; - for making investments in gifts for native chiefs; for obtaining - scientific instruments, stationery, etc., etc. The barge was an - invention of my own. - - [Illustration: THE "LADY ALICE" IN SECTIONS.] - - "It was to be forty feet long, six feet beam, and thirty inches - deep, of Spanish cedar three eighths of an inch thick. When - finished, it was to be separated into five sections, each of which - should be eight feet long. If the sections should be overweight, - they were to be again divided into halves for greater facility of - carriage. The construction of this novel boat was undertaken by Mr. - James Messenger, boat-builder, of Teddington, near London. The - pontoons were made by Cording, but though the workmanship was - beautiful, they were not a success, because the superior efficiency - of the boat for all purposes rendered them unnecessary. However, - they were not wasted. Necessity compelled us, while in Africa, to - employ them for far different purposes from those for which they - had originally been designed. - - "There lived a clerk at the Langham Hotel, of the name of Frederick - Barker, who, smitten with a desire to go to Africa, was not to be - dissuaded by reports of its unhealthy climate, its dangerous - fevers, or the uncompromising views of exploring life given to him. - 'He would go, he was determined to go,' he said. - - "Mr. Edwin Arnold, of the _Daily Telegraph_, also suggested that I - should be accompanied by one or more young English boatmen of good - character, on the ground that their river knowledge would be - extremely useful to me. He mentioned his wish to a most worthy - fisherman, named Henry Pocock, of Lower Upnor, Kent, who had kept - his yacht for him, and who had fine stalwart sons, who bore the - reputation of being honest and trustworthy. Two of these young men - volunteered at once. Both Mr. Arnold and myself warned the Pocock - family repeatedly that Africa had a cruel character, that the - sudden change from the daily comforts of English life to the - rigorous one of an explorer would try the most perfect - constitution; would most likely be fatal to the uninitiated and - unacclimatized. But I permitted myself to be overborne by the eager - courage and devotion of these adventurous lads, and Francis John - Pocock and Edward Pocock, two very likely-looking young men, were - accordingly engaged as my assistants. - - [Illustration: CANDIDATES FOR SERVICE WITH STANLEY.] - - "Soon after the announcement of the 'New Mission,' applications by - the score poured into the offices of the _Daily Telegraph_ and New - York _Herald_ for employment. Before I sailed from England, over - twelve hundred letters were received from 'generals,' 'colonels,' - 'captains,' 'lieutenants,' 'mid-shipmen,' 'engineers,' - 'commissioners of hotels,' mechanics, waiters, cooks, servants, - somebodies and nobodies, spiritual mediums and magnetizers, etc., - etc. They all knew Africa, were perfectly acclimatized, were quite - sure they would please me, would do important services, save me - from any number of troubles by their ingenuity and resources, take - me up in balloons or by flying carriages, make us all invisible by - their magic arts, or by the 'science of magnetism' would cause all - savages to fall asleep while we might pass anywhere without - trouble. Indeed, I feel sure that, had enough money been at my - disposal at that time, I might have led 5000 Englishmen, 5000 - Americans, 2000 Frenchmen, 2000 Germans, 500 Italians, 250 Swiss, - 200 Belgians, 50 Spaniards, and 5 Greeks, or 15,005 Europeans, to - Africa. But the time had not arrived to depopulate Europe, and - colonize Africa on such a scale, and I was compelled to - respectfully decline accepting the valuable services of the - applicants, and to content myself with Francis John and Edward - Pocock, and Frederick Barker--whose entreaties had been seconded by - his mother. - - "I was agreeably surprised also, before departure, at the great - number of friends I possessed in England, who testified their - friendship substantially by presenting me with useful 'tokens of - their regard' in the shape of canteens, watches, water-bottles, - pipes, pistols, knives, pocket-companions, manifold writers, - cigars, packages of medicine, Bibles, prayer-books, English tracts - for the dissemination of religious knowledge among the black - pagans, poems, tiny silk banners, gold rings, etc., etc. A lady for - whom I have a reverent respect presented me also with a magnificent - prize mastiff named Castor, an English officer presented me with - another, and at the Dogs' Home at Battersea I purchased a - retriever, a bull-dog, and a bull-terrier, called respectively by - the Pococks, Nero, Bull, and Jack. - - "On the 15th of August, 1874, having shipped the Europeans, boats, - dogs, and general property of the expedition, I left England for - the east coast of Africa to begin my explorations." - -Here Frank paused and informed his listeners that he would not read in -full the chapter which followed, as they could not readily comprehend it -without the aid of a map. "It contains," he said, "a summary of the -history of the expeditions that have sought to find the sources of the -Nile from the days of Herodotus to the present time, the accounts of the -discoveries of the Central African lakes and of the Nile flowing from -the northern end of Lake Victoria, together with a statement of the -knowledge which Dr. Livingstone possessed concerning the Congo River and -its course. At the end of the chapter Mr. Stanley repeats his proposal -to solve the problems concerning the extent of Lakes Tanganika and -Victoria, to find the outlet of the former, and determine whether the -great river which Livingston saw was the Nile, the Niger, or the Congo. -And now we will see," continued the youth, "how Mr. Stanley entered the -African continent on his great exploration." - -With these words he referred again to the book, and read as follows: - - "Twenty-eight months had elapsed between my departure from Zanzibar - after the discovery of Livingstone and my rearrival on that island, - September 21, 1874. - - [Illustration: VIEW OF A PORTION OF THE SEA-FRONT OF ZANZIBAR, FROM - THE WATER BATTERY TO SHANGANI POINT.] - - "The well-remembered undulating ridges, and the gentle slopes clad - with palms and mango-trees bathed in warm vapor, seemed in that - tranquil, drowsy state which at all times any portion of tropical - Africa presents at first appearance. A pale-blue sky covered the - hazy land and sleeping sea as we steamed through the strait that - separates Zanzibar from the continent. Every stranger, at first - view of the shores, proclaims his pleasure. The gorgeous verdure, - the distant purple ridges, the calm sea, the light gauzy - atmosphere, the semi-mysterious silence which pervades all nature, - evoke his admiration. For it is probable that he has sailed through - the stifling Arabian Sea, with the grim, frowning mountains of - Nubia on the one hand, and on the other the drear, ochreous-colored - ridges of the Arab peninsula; and perhaps the aspect of the - thirsty volcanic rocks of Aden and the dry, brown bluffs of - Guardafui is still fresh in his memory. - - [Illustration: ZANZIBAR, FROM THE SEA.] - - "The stranger, of course, is intensely interested in the life - existing near the African equator, now first revealed to him, and - all that he sees and hears of figures and faces and sounds is being - freshly impressed on his memory. Figures and faces are picturesque - enough. Happy, pleased-looking men of black, yellow, or tawny - color, with long, white cotton shirts, move about with quick, - active motion, and cry out, regardless of order, to their friends - or mates in the Swahili or Arabic language, and their friends or - mates respond with equally loud voice and lively gesture, until, - with fresh arrivals, there appears to be a Babel created, wherein - English, French, Swahili, and Arabic accents mix with Hindi, and, - perhaps, Persian. - - [Illustration: RED CLIFFS BEHIND UNIVERSITIES MISSION, ZANZIBAR.] - - "In the midst of such a scene I stepped into a boat to be rowed to - the house of my old friend, Mr. Augustus Sparhawk, of the Bertram - Agency. I was welcomed with all the friendliness and hospitality of - my first visit, when, three years and a half previously, I arrived - at Zanzibar to set out for the discovery of Livingstone. - - "With Mr. Sparhawk's aid I soon succeeded in housing comfortably my - three young Englishmen, Francis John and Edward Pocock and - Frederick Barker, and my five dogs, and in stowing safely on shore - the yawl _Wave_, the gig, and the tons of goods, provisions, and - stores I had brought. - - [Illustration: VIEW FROM THE ROOF OF MR. AUGUSTUS SPARHAWK'S HOUSE. - - Frank Pocock. Frederick Barker. A Zanzibar boy. Edward Pocock. - Kalula. - - Bull-terrier "Jack." "Bull." Retriever "Nero." Mastiff "Captain." - Prize Mastiff "Castor." - - (_From a Photograph by Mr. Stanley._)] - - "Life at Zanzibar is a busy one to the intending explorer. Time - flies rapidly, and each moment of daylight must be employed in the - selection and purchase of the various kinds of cloth, beads, and - wire in demand by the different tribes of the mainland through - whose countries he purposes journeying. Strong, half-naked porters - come in with great bales of unbleached cottons, striped and colored - fabrics, handkerchiefs and red caps, bags of blue, green, red, - white, and amber-colored beads, small and large, round and oval, - and coils upon coils of thick brass wire. These have to be - inspected, assorted, arranged, and numbered separately, have to be - packed in portable bales, sacks, or packages, or boxed, according - to their character and value. The house-floors are littered with - cast-off wrappings and covers, box-lids, and a medley of rejected - paper, cloth, zinc covers, and broken boards, sawdust, and other - _débris_. Porters and servants and masters, employees and - employers, pass backward and forward, to and fro, amid all this - litter, roll bales over, or tumble about boxes; and a rending of - cloth or paper, clattering of hammers, demands for the - marking-pots, or the number of bale and box, with quick, hurried - breathing and shouting, are heard from early morning until night. - - [Illustration: THE BRITISH CONSULATE AT ZANZIBAR.] - - "During the day the beach throughout its length is alive with the - moving figures of porters, bearing clove and cinnamon bags, ivory, - copal and other gums, and hides, to be shipped in the lighters - waiting along the water's edge, with sailors from the shipping, and - black boatmen discharging the various imports on the sand. In the - evening the beach is crowded with the naked forms of workmen and - boys from the 'go-downs,' preparing to bathe and wash the dust of - copal and hides off their bodies in the surf. Some of the Arab - merchants have ordered chairs on the piers, or bunders, to chat - sociably until the sun sets, and prayer-time has come. Boats hurry - by with their masters and sailors returning to their respective - vessels. Dhows move sluggishly past, hoisting as they go the - creaking yards of their lateen sails, bound for the mainland ports. - Zanzibar canoes and 'matepes' are arriving with wood and produce, - and others of the same native form and make are squaring their mat - sails, outward bound. Sunset approaches, and after sunset silence - follows soon. For as there are no wheeled carriages with the - eternal rumble of their traffic in Zanzibar, with the early evening - comes early peace and rest. - - [Illustration: SEYYID BARGHASH.] - - "Barghash bin Sayid, the Sultan of Zanzibar, heartily approved the - objects of the expedition and gave it practical aid. It is - impossible not to feel a kindly interest in Prince Barghash, and to - wish him complete success in the reforms he is now striving to - bring about in his country. Here we see an Arab prince, educated in - the strictest school of Islam, and accustomed to regard the black - natives of Africa as the lawful prey of conquest or lust, and fair - objects of barter, suddenly turning round at the request of - European philanthropists and becoming one of the most active - opponents of the slave-trade--and the spectacle must necessarily - create for him many well-wishers and friends. - - "The prince must be considered as an independent sovereign. His - territories include, besides the Zanzibar, Pemba, and Mafia - islands, nearly 1000 miles of coast, and extend probably over an - area of 20,000 square miles, with a population of half a million. - The products of Zanzibar have enriched many Europeans who traded in - them. Cloves, cinnamon, tortoise-shell, pepper, copal gum, ivory, - orchilla weed, india-rubber, and hides have been exported for - years; but this catalogue does not indicate a tithe of what might - be produced by the judicious investment of capital. Those intending - to engage in commercial enterprises would do well to study works on - Mauritius, Natal, and the Portuguese territories, if they wish to - understand what these fine, fertile lands are capable of. The - cocoa-nut palm flourishes at Zanzibar and on the mainland, the oil - palm thrives luxuriantly in Pemba, and sugar-cane will grow - everywhere. Caoutchouc remains undeveloped in the maritime belts of - woodland, and the acacia forests, with their wealth of gums, are - nearly untouched. Rice is sown on the Rufiji banks, and yields - abundantly; cotton would thrive in any of the rich river bottoms; - and then there are, besides, the grains, millet, Indian corn, and - many others, the cultivation of which, though only in a languid - way, the natives understand. The cattle, coffee, and goats of the - interior await also the energetic man of capital and the commercial - genius. - - "Those whom we call the Arabs of Zanzibar are either natives of - Muscat who have immigrated thither to seek their fortunes, or - descendants of the conquerors of the Portuguese; many of them are - descended from the Arab conquerors who accompanied Seyyid Sultan, - the grandfather of the present Seyyid Barghash. While many of these - descendants of the old settlers still cling to their homesteads, - farms, and plantations, and acquire sufficient competence by the - cultivation of cloves, cinnamon, oranges, cocoa-nut palms, - sugar-cane, and other produce, a great number have emigrated into - the interior to form new colonies. Hamed Ibrahim has been eighteen - years in Karagwé, Muini Kheri has been thirty years in Ujiji, - Sultan bin Ali has been twenty-five years in Unyanyembé, Muini - Dugumbi has been eight years in Nyangwé, Juma Merikani has been - seven years in Rua, and a number of other prominent Arabs may be - cited to prove that, though they themselves firmly believe that - they will return to the coast some day, there are too many reasons - for believing that they never will. - - "The Arabs of Zanzibar, whether from more frequent intercourse with - Europeans or from other causes, are undoubtedly the best of their - race. More easily amenable to reason than those of Egypt, or the - shy, reserved, and bigoted fanatics of Arabia, they offer no - obstacles to the European traveller, but are sociable, frank, - good-natured, and hospitable. In business they are keen traders, - and of course will exact the highest percentage of profit out of - the unsuspecting European if they are permitted. They are stanch - friends and desperate haters. Blood is seldom satisfied without - blood, unless extraordinary sacrifices are made. The conduct of an - Arab gentleman is perfect. Impertinence is hushed instantly by the - elders, and rudeness is never permitted. - - [Illustration: A ZANZIBAR NURSE-MAID.] - - "After the Arabs let us regard the Wangwana, or negro natives of - Zanzibar, just as in Europe, after studying the condition and - character of the middle-classes, we might turn to reflect upon that - of the laboring population. - - "After nearly seven years' acquaintance with the Wangwana, I have - come to perceive that they represent in their character much of the - disposition of a large portion of the negro tribes of the - continent. I find them capable of great love and affection, and - possessed of gratitude and other noble traits of human nature; I - know, too, that they can be made good, obedient servants, that many - are clever, honest, industrious, docile, enterprising, brave, and - moral; that they are, in short, equal to any other race or color on - the face of the globe, in all the attributes of manhood. But to be - able to perceive their worth, the traveller must bring an - unprejudiced judgment, a clear, fresh, and patient observation, and - must forget that lofty standard of excellence upon which he and his - race pride themselves, before he can fairly appreciate the - capabilities of the Zanzibar negro. The traveller should not forget - the origin of his own race, the condition of the Briton before St. - Augustine visited his country, but should rather recall to mind the - first state of the 'wild Caledonian,' and the original - circumstances and surroundings of primitive man. - - "Being, I hope, free from prejudices of caste, color, race, or - nationality, and endeavoring to pass what I believe to be a just - judgment upon the negroes of Zanzibar, I find that they are a - people just emerged into the Iron Epoch, and now thrust forcibly - under the notice of nations who have left them behind by the - improvements of over four thousand years. They possess beyond doubt - all the vices of a people still fixed deeply in barbarism, but they - understand to the full what and how low such a state is; it is, - therefore, a duty imposed upon us by the religion we profess, and - by the sacred command of the Son of God, to help them out of the - deplorable state they are now in. At any rate, before we begin to - hope for the improvement of races so long benighted, let us leave - off this impotent bewailing of their vices, and endeavor to - discover some of the virtues they possess as men, for it must be - with the aid of their virtues, and not by their vices, that the - missionary of civilization can ever hope to assist them. - - [Illustration: LADY OF ZANZIBAR READING AN ARABIC MANUSCRIPT.] - - "It is to the Wangwana that Livingstone, Burton, Speke, and Grant - owe, in great part, the accomplishment of their objects, and while - in the employ of those explorers, this race rendered great services - to geography. From a considerable distance north of the equator - down to the Zambezi and across Africa to Benguella and the mouth of - the Congo, or Livingstone, they have made their names familiar to - tribes who, but for the Wangwana, would have remained ignorant to - this day of all things outside their own settlements. They possess, - with many weaknesses, many fine qualities. While very - superstitious, easily inclined to despair, and readily giving ear - to vague, unreasonable fears, they may also, by judicious - management, be induced to laugh at their own credulity and roused - to a courageous attitude, to endure like stoics, and fight like - heroes. It will depend altogether upon the leader of a body of - such men whether their worst or best qualities shall prevail. - - [Illustration: NATIVE WATER-CARRIER, ZANZIBAR.] - - "There is another class coming into notice from the interior of - Africa, who, though of a sterner nature, will, I am convinced, as - they are better known, become greater favorites than the Wangwana. - I refer to the Wanyamwezi, or the natives of Unyamwezi, and the - Wasukuma, or the people of Usukuma. Naturally, being a grade less - advanced towards civilization than the Wangwana, they are not so - amenable to discipline as the latter. While explorers would in the - present state of acquaintance prefer the Wangwana as escort, the - Wanyamwezi are far superior as porters. Their greater freedom from - diseases, their greater strength and endurance, the pride they take - in their profession of porters, prove them born travellers of - incalculable use and benefit to Africa. If kindly treated, I do not - know more docile and good-natured creatures. Their skill in war, - tenacity of purpose, and determination to defend the rights of - their elected chief against foreigners, have furnished themes for - song to the bards of Central Africa. The English discoverer of - Lake Tanganika and, finally, I myself have been equally indebted to - them, both on my first and last expeditions. - - "From their numbers, and their many excellent qualities, I am led - to think that the day will come when they will be regarded as - something better than the 'best of pagazis;' that they will be - esteemed as the good subjects of some enlightened power, who will - train them up as the nucleus of a great African nation, as powerful - for the good of the Dark Continent, as they threaten, under the - present condition of things, to be for its evil." - -Here Frank paused and announced an intermission of ten minutes, to -enable the reader to rest a little. During the intermission the youths -discussed what they had heard, and agreed unanimously that the -description of Zanzibar and its people and their ruler was very -interesting. - -[Illustration: HINDOO MERCHANT OF ZANZIBAR.] - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -TRANSPORTATION IN AFRICA.--MEN AS BEASTS OF BURDEN.--PORTERS, AND THEIR -PECULIARITIES.--ENGAGING MEN FOR THE EXPEDITION.--A _SHAURI_.--TROUBLES -WITH THE _LADY ALICE_.--AGREEMENT BETWEEN STANLEY AND HIS -MEN.--DEPARTURE FROM ZANZIBAR.--BAGAMOYO.--THE UNIVERSITIES -MISSION.--DEPARTURE OF THE EXPEDITION.--DIFFICULTIES WITH THE -PORTERS.--SUFFERINGS ON THE MARCH.--NATIVE SUSPENSION-BRIDGES.--SHOOTING -A ZEBRA.--LOSSES BY DESERTION. - - -Before the reading was resumed, one of the youths asked if Zanzibar was -the usual starting-point for expeditions for the exploration of Africa. -Mr. Stanley was absent at the moment the question was asked, but the -answer was readily given by Doctor Bronson. - -"Zanzibar is the usual starting-point," said the Doctor, "but it is by -no means the only one. Livingstone's expedition for exploring the -Zambesi River set out from Zanzibar, and so did other expeditions of the -great missionary. Burton and Speke started from there in 1856, when they -discovered Lake Tanganika; and, four years later, Speke and Grant set -out from the same place. Lieutenant Cameron, in his journey across -Africa, made Zanzibar his starting point; and the expedition of Mr. -Johnson to the Kilimandjaro Mountain was chiefly outfitted there, though -it left the coast at Mombasa. - -"Zanzibar," continued Doctor Bronson, "is the best point of departure -for an inland expedition anywhere along the east coast of Africa, for -the reason that it is the largest and most important place of trade. Its -shops are well supplied with the goods that an explorer needs for his -journey, and its merchants have a better reputation than those of other -African ports. Everything in the interior of Africa must be carried on -the backs of men, there being, as yet, no other system of -transportation. Horses cannot live in certain parts of the interior of -Africa, owing to the tsetse-fly, which kills them with its bites; and -even were it not for this fly, it is likely that the heat of the climate -would render them of little use. Occasionally, a traveller endeavors to -use donkeys as beasts of burden, but these animals are scarce and dear, -and of much less use than in other lands. Until Africa is provided with -railways--and that will not be for a long while yet--the transportation -must be done by men. Every caravan that leaves the coast for the -interior of the continent requires a large number of porters; and the -difficulty of obtaining them is one of the greatest annoyances to -merchants and travellers." - -[Illustration: NEGRO NURSE-MAID, ZANZIBAR.] - -One of the youths said he supposed it was because the demand was so -great that there was not a sufficient number of men. - -"Not at all," replied the Doctor. "There are plenty of men in Africa, -but they are not particularly anxious to work. Their wants are few, and -they can live upon very little; consequently they are not over-desirous -to go on a journey of several hundred miles and carry heavy burdens on -their shoulders or heads. Added to their laziness is a lack of a feeling -of responsibility or of honor. After engaging to go on a journey they -fail to appear at the appointed time, and whenever they are weary of -their work they coolly drop their burdens at the side of the road and -make off into the bushes. In the first few days of a journey a traveller -is always deserted by many of his porters, and it is only when he gets -far from the coast and has possibly entered an enemy's country that he -can keep his men together. All travellers have the same story to tell, -and they all agree that the Zanzibari porters are the most faithful of -all in keeping their engagements, or, to say it better, the least -unfaithful. For this reason, also, Zanzibar is a favorite starting-point -for explorers. Frank will now read to us about the difficulties which -Mr. Stanley encountered in outfitting his expedition." - -[Illustration: A ZANZIBAR BRIDE.] - -Acting upon this hint, Frank opened the book and read as follows: - - "It is a most sobering employment, the organizing of an African - expedition. You are constantly engaged, mind and body; now in - casting up accounts, and now travelling to and fro hurriedly to - receive messengers, inspecting purchases, bargaining with - keen-eyed, relentless Hindi merchants, writing memoranda, haggling - over extortionate prices, packing up a multitude of small - utilities, pondering upon your lists of articles, wanted, - purchased, and unpurchased, groping about in the recesses of a - highly exercised imagination for what you ought to purchase, and - can not do without, superintending, arranging, assorting, and - packing. And this under a temperature of 95° Fahr. - - "In the midst of all this terrific, high-pressure exercise arrives - the first batch of applicants for employment. For it has long ago - been bruited abroad that I am ready to enlist all able-bodied human - beings willing to carry a load. Ever since I arrived at Zanzibar I - have had a very good reputation among Arabs and Wangwana. They have - not forgotten that it was I who found the 'old white - man'--Livingstone--in Ujiji, nor that liberality and kindness to my - men were my special characteristics. They have also, with the true - Oriental spirit of exaggeration, proclaimed that I was but a few - months absent; and that, after this brief excursion, they returned - to their homes to enjoy the liberal pay awarded them, feeling - rather the better for the trip than otherwise. This unsought-for - reputation brought on me the laborious task of selecting proper men - out of an extraordinary number of applicants. Almost all the - cripples, the palsied, the consumptive, and the superannuated that - Zanzibar could furnish applied to be enrolled on the muster-list, - but these, subjected to a searching examination, were refused. Hard - upon their heels came all the roughs, rowdies, and ruffians of the - island, and these, schooled by their fellows, were not so easily - detected. Slaves were also refused, as being too much under the - influence and instruction of their masters, and yet many were - engaged of whose character I had not the least conception, until, - months afterwards, I learned from their quarrels in the camp how I - had been misled by the clever rogues. - - [Illustration: WINDOW OF AN ARAB HOUSE, ZANZIBAR.] - - "All those who bore good characters on the Search Expedition, and - had been despatched to the assistance of Livingstone in 1872, were - employed without delay. Out of these the chiefs were selected: - these were Manwa Sera, Chowpereh, Wadi Rehani, Kachéché, Zaidi, - Chakanja, Farjalla, Wadi Safeni, Bukhet, Mabruki Manyapara, Mabruki - Unyanyembé, Muini Pembé, Ferahan, Bwana Muri, Khamseen, Mabruki - Speke, Simba, Gardner, Hamoidah, Zaidi Mganda, and Ulimengo. - - [Illustration: COXSWAIN ULEDI, AND MANWA SERA, CHIEF CAPTAIN. - - (_From a Photograph._)] - - "All great enterprises require a preliminary deliberative palaver, - or, as the Wangwana call it, 'Shauri.' In East Africa, - particularly, shauris are much in vogue. Precipitate, energetic - action is dreaded. '_Poli, poli!_' or 'Gently!' is the warning - word of caution given. - - "The chiefs arranged themselves in a semicircle on the day of the - shauri, and I sat _à la Turque_ fronting them. 'What is it, my - friends? Speak your minds.' They hummed and hawed, looked at one - another, as if on their neighbor's faces they might discover the - purport of their coming, but, all hesitating to begin, finally - broke down in a loud laugh. - - "Manwa Sera, always grave, unless hit dexterously with a joke, - hereupon affected anger, and said, '_You_ speak, son of Safeni; - verily we act like children! Will the master eat us?' - - "Wadi, son of Safeni, thus encouraged to perform the spokesman's - duty, hesitates exactly two seconds, and then ventures with - diplomatic blandness and _graciosity_. 'We have come, master, with - words. Listen. It is well we should know every step before we leap. - A traveller journeys not without knowing whither he wanders. We - have come to ascertain what lands you are bound for.' - - "Imitating the son of Safeni's gracious blandness, and his low tone - of voice, as though the information about to be imparted to the - intensely interested and eagerly listening group were too important - to speak it loud, I described in brief outline the prospective - journey, in broken Kiswahili. As country after country was - mentioned of which they had hitherto had but vague ideas, and river - after river, lake after lake named, all of which I hoped with their - trusty aid to explore carefully, various ejaculations expressive of - wonder or joy, mixed with a little alarm, broke from their lips, - but when I concluded, each of the group drew a long breath, and - almost simultaneously they uttered, admiringly, 'Ah, fellows, this - is a journey worthy to be called a journey!' - - [Illustration: A MERCHANT OF ZANZIBAR.] - - "'But, master,' said they, after recovering themselves, 'this long - journey will take years to travel--six, nine, or ten years.' - 'Nonsense,' I replied. 'Six, nine, or ten years! What can you be - thinking of? It takes the Arabs nearly three years to reach Ujiji, - it is true, but, if you remember, I was but sixteen months from - Zanzibar to Ujiji and back. Is it not so?' 'Ay, true,' they - answered. 'Very well, and I assure you I have not come to live in - Africa. I have come simply to see those rivers and lakes, and after - I have seen them to return home. You remember while going to Ujiji - I permitted the guide to show the way, but when we were returning - who was it that led the way? Was it not I, by means of that little - compass which could not lie like the guide?' 'Ay, true, master, - true every word!' 'Very well, then, let us finish the shauri, and - go. To-morrow we will make a proper agreement before the consul;' - and, in Scriptural phrase, 'they forthwith arose and did as they - were commanded.' - - "Upon receiving information from the coast that there was a very - large number of men waiting for me, I became still more fastidious - in my choice. But with all my care and gift of selection, I was - mortified to discover that many faces and characters had baffled - the rigorous scrutiny to which I had subjected them, and that some - scores of the most abandoned and depraved characters on the island - had been enlisted by me on the expedition. One man, named Msenna, - imposed upon me by assuming such a contrite, penitent look, and - weeping such copious tears, when I informed him that he had too bad - a character to be employed, that my good-nature was prevailed upon - to accept his services, upon the understanding that, if he indulged - his murderous propensities in Africa, I should return him chained - the entire distance to Zanzibar, to be dealt with by his prince. He - delivered his appeal with impassioned accents and lively gestures, - which produced a great effect upon the mixed audience who listened - to him, and, gathering from their faces more than from my own - convictions that he had been much abused and very much - misunderstood, his services were accepted, and as he appeared to be - an influential man, he was appointed a junior captain with - prospects of promotion and higher pay. - - "Subsequently, however, on the shores of Lake Victoria it was - discovered--for in Africa people are uncommonly communicative--that - Msenna had murdered eight people, that he was a ruffian of the - worst sort, and that the merchants of Zanzibar had experienced - great relief when they heard that the notorious Msenna was about to - bid farewell for a season to the scene of so many of his wild - exploits. Msenna was only one of many of his kind, but I have given - in detail the manner of his enlistment that my position may be - better understood. - - "The weight of a porter's load should not exceed sixty pounds. On - the arrival of the sectional exploring boat _Lady Alice_, great - were my vexation and astonishment when I discovered that four of - the sections weighed two hundred and eighty pounds each, and that - one weighed three hundred and ten pounds! She was, it is true, a - marvel of workmanship, and an exquisite model of a boat, such, - indeed, as few builders in England or America could rival, but in - her present condition her carriage through the jungles would - necessitate a pioneer force a hundred strong to clear the - impediments and obstacles on the road. - - [Illustration: TARYA TOPAN.] - - "I found an English carpenter named Ferris, to whom I showed the - boat and explained that the narrowness of the path would make her - portage absolutely impossible, for since the path was often only - eighteen inches wide in Africa, and hemmed in on each side with - dense jungle, any package six feet broad could by no means be - conveyed along it. It was therefore necessary that each of the four - sections should be subdivided, by which means I should obtain eight - portable sections, each three feet wide. Mr. Ferris, perfectly - comprehending his instructions, and with the aid given by the young - Pococks, furnished me within two weeks with the newly modelled - _Lady Alice_. Meantime I was busy purchasing cloth, beads, wire, - and other African goods, the most of them coming from the - establishment of Tarya Topan, one of the millionaire merchants of - Zanzibar. I made Tarya's acquaintance in 1871, and the righteous - manner in which he then dealt by me caused me now to proceed to him - again for the same purpose as formerly. - - "The total weight of goods, cloth, beads, wire, stores, medicine, - bedding, clothes, tents, ammunition, boat, oars, rudders and - thwarts, instruments and stationery, photographic apparatus, dry - plates, and miscellaneous articles too numerous to mention, weighed - a little over eighteen thousand pounds, or rather more than eight - tons, divided as nearly as possible into loads weighing sixty - pounds each, and requiring therefore the carrying capacity of - three hundred men. The loads were made more than usually light, in - order that we might travel with celerity, and not fatigue the - people. - - "But still further to provide against sickness and weakness, a - supernumerary force of forty men were recruited at Bagamoyo, - Konduchi, and the Rufiji delta, who were required to assemble in - the neighborhood of the first-mentioned place. Two hundred and - thirty men, consisting of Wangwana, Wanyamwezi, and coast people - from Mombasa, Tanga, and Saadani, affixed their marks opposite - their names before the American consul, for wages varying from two - to ten dollars per month and rations, according to their capacity, - strength, and intelligence, with the understanding that they were - to serve for two years, or until such time as their services should - be no longer required in Africa, and were to perform their duties - cheerfully and promptly. - - "On the day of 'signing' the contract each adult received an - advance of twenty dollars, or four months' pay, and each youth ten - dollars, or four months' pay. Ration money was also paid them from - the time of first enlistment, at the rate of one dollar per week, - up to the day we left the coast. The entire amount disbursed in - cash for advances of pay and rations at Zanzibar and Bagamoyo was - $6260, or nearly thirteen hundred pounds. - - "The obligations, however, were not all on one side. Besides the - due payment to them of their wages, I was compelled to bind myself - to them, on the word of an 'honorable white man,' to observe the - following conditions as to conduct towards them: - - "1st. That I should treat them kindly, and be patient with them. - - "2d. That in cases of sickness, I should dose them with proper - medicine, and see them nourished with the best the country - afforded. That if patients were unable to proceed, they should be - conveyed to such places as should be considered safe for their - persons and their freedom, and convenient for their return, on - convalescence, to their friends. That, with all patients thus left - behind, I should leave sufficient cloth or beads to pay the native - practitioner for his professional attendance, and for the support - of the patient. - - "3d. That in cases of disagreement between man and man, I should - judge justly, honestly, and impartially. That I should do my utmost - to prevent the ill-treatment of the weak by the strong, and never - permit the oppression of those unable to resist. - - [Illustration: UNIVERSITIES MISSION AT MBWENNI, ZANZIBAR.] - - "That I should act like a 'father and mother' to them, and to the - best of my ability resist all violence offered to them by 'savage - natives, and roving and lawless banditti.' - - "They also promised, upon the above conditions being fulfilled, - that they would do their duty like men, would honor and respect my - instructions, giving me their united support, and endeavoring to - the best of their ability to be faithful servants, and would never - desert me in the hour of need. In short, that they would behave - like good and loyal children, and 'may the blessing of God,' said - they 'be upon us.' - - "How we kept this bond of mutual trust and forbearance will be best - seen in the following chapters, which record the strange and - eventful story of our journeys. - - "The fleet of six Arab vessels which were to bear us away to the - west across the Zanzibar Sea were at last brought to anchor a few - yards from the wharf of the American Consulate. The Wangwana, true - to their promise that they would be ready, appeared with their - bundles and mats, and proceeded to take their places in the vessels - waiting for them. As fast as each dhow was reported to be filled, - the _nakhuda_, or captain, was directed to anchor farther off shore - to await the signal to sail. By 5 P.M., of the 12th of November, - 224 men had responded to their names, and five of the Arab vessels, - laden with the _personnel_, cattle, and _matériel_ of the - expedition, were impatiently waiting, with anchor heaved short, the - word of command. One vessel still lay close ashore, to convey - myself, and Frederick Barker--in charge of the personal - servants--our baggage, and dogs. Turning round to my constant and - well-tried friend, Mr. Augustus Sparhawk, I fervently clasped his - hand, and with a full heart, though halting tongue, attempted to - pour out my feelings of gratitude for his kindness and - long-sustained hospitality, my keen regret at parting, and hopes of - meeting again. But I was too agitated to be eloquent, and all my - forced gayety could not carry me through the ordeal. So we parted - in almost total silence, but I felt assured that he would judge my - emotions by his own feelings. - - [Illustration: HAREM IN THE HOUSE OF THE SECRETARY OF THE SULTAN OF - ZANZIBAR.] - - "A wave of my hand, and the anchors were hove up and laid within - ship, and then, hoisting our lateen sails, we bore away westward to - launch ourselves into the arms of Fortune. Many wavings of - kerchiefs and hats, parting signals from white hands, and last long - looks at friendly white faces, final confused impressions of the - grouped figures of our well-wishers, and then the evening breeze - had swept us away into mid-sea, beyond reach of recognition. - - [Illustration: "TOWARDS THE DARK CONTINENT."] - - "The parting is over! We have said our last words for years, - perhaps forever, to kindly men! The sun sinks fast to the western - horizon, and gloomy is the twilight that now deepens and darkens. - Thick shadows fall upon the distant land and over the silent sea, - and oppress our throbbing, regretful hearts, as we glide away - through the dying light towards the Dark Continent. - - "Upon landing at Bagamoyo, on the morning of the 13th of November, - we marched to occupy the old house where we had stayed so long to - prepare the first expedition. The goods were stored, the dogs - chained up, the riding asses tethered, the rifles arrayed in the - store-room, and the sectional boat laid under a roof close by, on - rollers, to prevent injury from the white ants--a precaution which, - I need hardly say, we had to observe throughout our journey. Then - some more ration money, sufficient for ten days, had to be - distributed among the men, the young Pococks were told off to - various camp duties, to initiate them to exploring life in Africa, - and then, after the first confusion of arrival had subsided, I - began to muster the new _engagés_. - - "There is an institution at Bagamoyo which ought not to be passed - over without remark, but the subject cannot be properly dealt with - until I have described the similar institution, of equal - importance, at Zanzibar: viz., the Universities Mission. Besides, I - have three pupils of the Universities Mission who are about to - accompany me into Africa--Robert Feruzi, Andrew, and Dallington. - Robert is a stout lad of eighteen years old, formerly a servant to - one of the members of Lieutenant Cameron's expedition. Andrew is a - strong youth of nineteen years, rather reserved, and, I should say, - not of a very bright disposition. Dallington is much younger, - probably only fifteen, with a face strongly pitted with traces of a - violent attack of small-pox, but as bright and intelligent as any - boy of his age, white or black. - - "The Universities Mission is the result of the sensation caused in - England by Livingstone's discoveries on the Zambezi and of Lakes - Nyassa and Shirwa. It was despatched by the universities of Oxford - and Cambridge in the year 1860, and consisted of Bishop Mackenzie, - formerly Archdeacon of Natal, and the Rev. Messrs. Proctor, - Scudamore, Burrup, and Rowley. It was established at first in the - Zambesi country, but was moved, a few years later, to Zanzibar. - Several of the reverend gentlemen connected with it have died at - their post of duty, Bishop Mackenzie being the first to fall, but - the work goes on. The mission at Bagamoyo is in charge of four - French priests, eight brothers, and twelve sisters, with ten lay - brothers employed in teaching agriculture. The French fathers - superintend the tuition of two hundred and fifty children, and give - employment to about eighty adults. One hundred and seventy freed - slaves were furnished from the slave captures made by British - cruisers. They are taught to earn their own living as soon as they - arrive of age, and are furnished with comfortable lodgings, - clothing, and household utensils. - - [Illustration: SCENE IN BAGAMOYO.] - - "'Notre Dame de Bagamoyo' is situated about a mile and a half north - of Bagamoyo, overlooking the sea, which washes the shores just at - the base of the tolerably high ground on which the mission - buildings stand. Thrift, order, and that peculiar style of neatness - common to the French are its characteristics. The cocoa-nut palm, - orange, and mango flourish in this pious settlement, while a - variety of garden vegetables and grain are cultivated in the - fields; and broad roads, cleanly kept, traverse the estate. During - the superior's late visit to France he obtained a considerable sum - for the support of the mission, and he has lately established a - branch mission at Kidudwe. It is evident that, if supported - constantly by his friends in France, the superior will extend his - work still farther into the interior, and it is therefore safe to - predict that the road to Ujiji will in time possess a chain of - mission stations affording the future European trader and traveller - safe retreats with the conveniences of civilized life.[2] - - [2] Mr. Stanley's words were prophetic. Since the above was written - a mission has been established at Ujiji and several other missions - at points along the road between Lake Tanganika and Bagamoyo. - - "There are two other missions on the east coast of Africa: that of - the Church Missionary Society, and the Methodist Free Church at - Mombasa. The former has occupied this station for over thirty - years, and has a branch establishment at Rabbai Mpia, the home of - the Dutch missionaries, Krapf, Rebmann, and Erhardt. But these - missions have not obtained the success which such long - self-abnegation and devotion to the pious service deserved. - - "On the morning of the 17th of November, 1874, the first bold step - for the interior was taken. The bugle mustered the people to rank - themselves before our quarters, and each man's load was given to - him according as we judged his power of bearing burden. To the man - of strong, sturdy make, with a large development of muscle, the - cloth bale of sixty pounds was given, which would in a couple of - months, by constant expenditure, be reduced to fifty pounds, in six - months perhaps to forty pounds, and in a year to about thirty - pounds, provided that all his comrades were faithful to their - duties; to the short, compactly-formed man, the bead-sack, of fifty - pounds' weight; to the light youth of eighteen or twenty years old, - the box of forty pounds, containing stores, ammunition, and - sundries. To the steady, respectable, grave-looking men of advanced - years, the scientific instruments, thermometers, barometers, - watches, sextant, mercury-bottles, compasses, pedometers, - photographic apparatus, dry plates, stationery, and scientific - books, all packed in forty-pound cases, were distributed; while the - man most highly recommended for steadiness and cautious tread was - intrusted with the carriage of the three chronometers, which were - stowed in balls of cotton, in a light case weighing not more than - twenty-five pounds. The twelve Kirangozis, or guides, tricked out - this day in flowing robes of crimson blanket-cloth, demanded the - privilege of conveying the several loads of brass-wire coils; and - as they form the second advanced guard, and are active, bold - youths--some of whom are to be hereafter known as the boat's crew, - and to be distinguished by me above all others except the - chiefs--they are armed with Snider rifles, with their respective - accoutrements. The boat-carriers are herculean in figure and - strength, for they are practised bearers of loads, having resigned - their ignoble profession of hamal in Zanzibar to carry sections of - the first Europe-made boat that ever floated on Lakes Victoria and - Tanganika and the extreme sources of the Nile and the Livingstone. - To each section of the boat there are four men, to relieve one - another in couples. They get higher pay than even the chiefs, - except the chief captain, Manwa Sera, and, besides receiving double - rations, have the privilege of taking their wives along with them. - There are six riding asses also in the expedition, all saddled, one - for each of the Europeans--the two Pococks, Barker, and myself--and - two for the sick; for the latter there are also three of Seydel's - net hammocks, with six men to act as a kind of ambulance party. - - [Illustration: WIFE OF MANWA SERA. - - (_From a Photograph._)] - - "At nine A.M. we file out of Bagamoyo in the following order: Four - chiefs a few hundred yards in front; next the twelve guides, clad - in red robes of Jobo, bearing the wire coils; then a long file of - two hundred and seventy strong, bearing cloth, wire, beads, and - sections of the _Lady Alice_; after them thirty-six women and ten - boys, children of some of the chiefs and boat-bearers, following - their mothers and assisting them with trifling loads of utensils, - followed by the riding asses, Europeans, and gun-bearers; the long - line closed by sixteen chiefs who act as rear-guard, and whose - duties are to pick up stragglers, and act as supernumeraries until - other men can be procured; in all, three hundred and fifty-six - souls connected with the Anglo-American expedition. The lengthy - line occupies nearly half a mile of the path which, at the present - day, is the commercial and exploring highway into the lake regions. - - "Edward Pocock acts as bugler, and he has familiarized Hamadi, the - chief guide, with its notes, so that, in case of a halt being - required, Hamadi may be informed immediately. The chief guide is - also armed with a prodigiously long horn of ivory, his favorite - instrument, and one that belongs to his profession, which he has - permission to use only when approaching a suitable camping-place, - or to notify to us danger in the front. Before Hamadi strides a - chubby little boy with a native drum, which he is to beat only when - in the neighborhood of villages, to warn them of the advance of a - caravan, a caution most requisite, for many villages are situated - in the midst of a dense jungle, and the sudden arrival of a large - force of strangers before they had time to hide their little - belongings might awaken jealousy and distrust. - - "In this manner we begin our long journey, full of hopes. There is - noise and laughter along the ranks, and a hum of gay voices - murmuring through the fields, as we rise and descend with the waves - of the land and wind with the sinuosities of the path. Motion had - restored us all to a sense of satisfaction. We had an intensely - bright and fervid sun shining above us, the path was dry, hard, and - admirably fit for travel, and during the commencement of our first - march nothing could be conceived in better order than the lengthy, - thin column about to confront the wilderness. - - [Illustration: A LEADING CITIZEN OF BAGAMOYO.] - - "Presently, however, the fervor of the dazzling sun grows - overpowering as we descend into the valley of the Kingani River. - The ranks become broken and disordered; stragglers are many; the - men complain of the terrible heat; the dogs pant in agony. Even we - ourselves, under our solah topees, with flushed faces and - perspiring brows, with handkerchiefs ever in use to wipe away the - drops which almost blind us, and our heavy woollens giving us a - feeling of semi-asphyxiation, would fain rest, were it not that the - sun-bleached levels of the tawny, thirsty valley offer no - inducements. The veterans of travel push on towards the river, - three miles distant, where they may obtain rest and shelter, but - the inexperienced are lying prostrate on the ground, exclaiming - against the heat, and crying for water, bewailing their folly in - leaving Zanzibar. We stop to tell them to rest awhile, and then to - come on to the river, where they will find us; we advise, - encourage, and console the irritated people as best we can, and - tell them that it is only the commencement of a journey that is so - hard; that all this pain and weariness are always felt by - beginners, but that by and by it is shaken off, and that those who - are steadfast emerge out of the struggle heroes. - - "Frank and his brother Edward, despatched to the ferry at the - beginning of these delays, have now got the sectional boat _Lady - Alice_ all ready, and the ferrying of men, goods, asses, and dogs - across the Kingani is prosecuted with vigor, and at 3.30 P.M. the - boat is again in pieces, slung on the bearing-poles, and the - expedition has resumed its journey to Kikoka, the first - halting-place. - - "But before we reach camp we have acquired a fair idea as to how - many of our people are stanch and capable, and how many are too - feeble to endure the fatigues of bearing loads. The magnificent - prize mastiff dog Castor died of heat apoplexy within two miles of - Kikoka, and the other mastiff, Captain, seems likely to follow - soon, and only Nero, Bull, and Jack, though prostrate and breathing - hard, show any signs of life. - - "At Kikoka, then, we rest the next day. We discharge two men, who - have been taken seriously ill, and several new recruits, who arrive - at camp during the night preceding and this day, are engaged. - - "As there are so many subjects to be touched upon along the seven - thousand miles of explored lines, I propose to be brief with the - incidents and descriptive sketches of our route to Ituru, because - the country for two thirds of the way has been sufficiently - described in 'How I Found Livingstone' and elsewhere. - - [Illustration: THE EXPEDITION AT ROSAKO.] - - "At Rosako the route began to diverge from that which led to Msuwa - and Simba-Mwenni, and opened out on a stretch of beautiful park - land, green as an English lawn, dipping into lovely vales, and - rising into gentle ridges. Thin, shallow threads of water, in - furrow-like beds or in deep, narrow ditches, which expose the - sandstone strata on which the fat, ochreous soil rests, run in mazy - curves round forest clumps or through jungle tangles, and wind - about among the higher elevations, on their way towards the Wami - River. We followed this river for some distance, crossing it - several times at fords where the water was about two and a half - feet deep. At one of the fords there was a curious - suspension-bridge over the river, constructed of llianes, with - great ingenuity, by the natives. The banks were at this point - sixteen feet high above the river, and from bank to bank the - distance was only thirty yards; it was evident, therefore, that the - river must be a dangerous torrent during the rainy season. - - "On the 3d of December we came to the Mkundi River, a tributary of - the Wami, which divides Nguru country from Usagara. - Simba-Mwenni--the Lion Lord--owns five villages in this - neighborhood. He was generous, and gratified us with a gift of a - sheep, some flour, and plantains, accepting with pleasure some - cloth in return. - - "The Wa-Nguru are fond of black and white beads and brass wire. - They split the lobes of their ears, and introduce such curious - things as the necks of gourds or round disks of wood to extend the - gash. A medley of strange things are worn round the neck, such as - tiny goats' horns, small brass chains, and large, egglike beads. - Blue Kaniki and the red-barred Barsati are the favorite cloths in - this region. The natives dye their faces with ochre, and, probably - influenced by the example of the Wanyamwezi, dress their hair in - long ringlets, which are adorned with pendicles of copper, or white - or red beads of the large Sam-sam pattern. - - "Grand and impressive scenery meets the eye as we march to - Makubika, where we attain an altitude of two thousand six hundred - and seventy-five feet above the ocean. Peaks and knolls rise in all - directions, for we are now ascending to the eastern front of the - Kaguru Mountains. The summits of Ukamba are seen to the north, its - slopes famous for the multitude of elephants. Farther inland we - reached the spine of a hill at four thousand four hundred and - ninety feet, and beheld an extensive plain, stretching northwest - and west, with browsing herds of noble game. Camping on its verge, - between a humpy hill and some rocky knolls, near a beautiful pond - of crystal-clear water, I proceeded with my gun-bearer, Billali, - and the notorious Msenna, in the hope of bringing down something - for the Wangwana. - - "The plain was broader than I had judged it by the eye from the - crest of the hill whence we had first sighted it. It was not until - we had walked briskly over a long stretch of tawny grass, crushed - by sheer force through a brambly jungle, and trampled down a path - through clumps of slender cane-stalks, that we came at last in view - of a small herd of zebras. These animals are so quick of scent and - ear, and so vigilant with their eyes, that, across an open space, - it is most difficult to stalk them. But, by dint of tremendous - exertion, I contrived to approach within two hundred and fifty - yards, taking advantage of every thin tussock of grass, and, almost - at random, fired. One of the herd leaped from the ground, galloped - a few short, maddened strides, and then, on a sudden, staggered, - kneeled, trembled, and fell over, its legs kicking the air. Its - companions whinnied shrilly for their mate, and presently, wheeling - in circles with graceful motion, advanced nearer, still whinnying, - until I dropped another, with a crushing ball through the - head--much against my wish, for I think zebras were created for - better purpose than to be eaten. The remnant of the herd vanished. - - [Illustration: VIEW FROM THE VILLAGE OF MAMBOYA.] - - "Billali, requested to run to camp to procure Wangwana to carry the - meat, was only too happy, knowing what brave cheers and hearty - congratulations would greet him. Msenna was already busy skinning - one of the animals, some three hundred yards from me, when, turning - my head, I made out the form of some tawny animal, that was - advancing with a curious long step, and I recognized it to be a - lion. I motioned to Msenna, who happened to be looking up, and - beckoned him. 'What do you think it is, Msenna?' I asked. 'Simba [a - lion], master,' he answered. - - "The animal approached slowly, while I made ready to receive him - with an explosive bullet from the elephant rifle. When within three - hundred yards he paused, and then turned and trotted off into a bit - of scrubby jungle, about eight hundred yards away. Ten minutes - elapsed, and then as many animals emerged from the same spot into - which the other had disappeared, and approached us in stately - column. But it being now dusk I could not discern them very - clearly. We both were, however, quite sure in our own minds that - they were lions, or at any rate some animals so like them in the - twilight that we could not imagine them to be anything else. When - the foremost had come within one hundred yards I fired. It sprang - up and fell, and the others disappeared with a dreadful rush. We - now heard shouts behind us, for the Wangwana had come; so, taking - one or two with me, I endeavored to discover what I felt sure to be - a prostrate lion, but it could not be found. - - "The next day Manwa Sera went out to hunt for the lion-skin, but - returned after a long search with only a strong doubt in his mind - as to its having been a lion, and a few reddish hairs to prove - that it was something which had been eaten by hyenas. This day I - succeeded in shooting a small antelope of the springbok kind. - - "On the 12th of December, twenty-five days' march from Bagamoyo, we - arrived at Mpwapwa. - - [Illustration: OUR CAMP AT MPWAPWA. - - (_From a Photograph._)] - - "Mpwapwa has also some fine trees, but no forest; the largest being - the tamarind, sycamore, cottonwood, and baobab. The collection of - villages denominated by this title lies widely scattered on either - side of the Mpwapwa stream, at the base of the southern slope of a - range of mountains that extends in a sinuous line from Chunyu to - Ugombo. I call it a range, because it appeared to be one from - Mpwapwa; but in reality it is simply the northern flank of a deep - indentation in the great mountain chain that extends from - Abyssinia, or even Suez, down to the Cape of Good Hope. At the - extreme eastern point of this indentation from the western side - lies Lake Ugombo, just twenty-four miles from Mpwapwa. - - "Desertions from the expedition had been frequent. At first, - Kachéché, the chief detective, and his gang of four men, who had - received their instructions to follow us a day's journey behind, - enabled me to recapture sixteen of the deserters; but the cunning - Wangwana and Wanyamwezi soon discovered this resource of mine - against their well-known freaks, and, instead of striking east in - their departure, absconded either south or north of the track. We - then had detectives posted long before dawn, several hundred yards - away from the camp, who were bidden to lie in wait in the bush - until the expedition had started, and in this manner we succeeded - in repressing to some extent the disposition to desert, and - arrested very many men on the point of escaping; but even this was - not adequate. Fifty had abandoned us before reaching Mpwapwa, - taking with them the advances they had received, and often their - guns, on which our safety might depend. - - [Illustration: DETECTIVE AND ASSISTANTS.] - - "Several feeble men and women also had to be left behind, and it - was evident that the very wariest methods failed to bind the people - to their duties. The best of treatment and abundance of provisions - daily distributed were alike insufficient to induce such faithless - natures to be loyal. However, we persisted, and as often as we - failed in one way we tried another. Had all these men remained - loyal to their contract and promises, we should have been too - strong for any force to attack us, as our numbers must necessarily - have commanded respect in lands and among tribes where only power - is respected. - - "One day's march from Mpwapwa brought us to Chunyu--an exposed and - weak settlement, overlooking the desert or wilderness separating - Usagara from Ugogo. Close to our right towered the Usagara - Mountains, and on our left stretched the inhospitable arm of the - wilderness. Fifteen or twenty miles distant to the south rose the - vast cluster of Rubeho's cones and peaks. - - "The water at Chunyu is nitrous and bitter to the taste. The - natives were once prosperous, but repeated attacks from the Wahehé - to the south and the Wahumba to the north have reduced them in - numbers, and compelled them to seek refuge on the hill-summits. - - "On the 16th of December, at early dawn, we struck camp, and at an - energetic pace descended into the wilderness, and at 7 P.M. the - vanguard of the expedition entered Ugogo, camping two or three - miles from the frontier village of Kikombo. The next day, at a - more moderate pace, we entered the populated district, and took - shelter under a mighty baobab a few hundred yards distant from the - chief's village." - -Here Frank announced that it was late in the afternoon, and he wished to -take a promenade on deck. With the permission of his auditors he would -postpone the narrative until evening. The proposal was accepted, but -before the youth could retire he was warmly thanked by those whom he had -so agreeably entertained. - -[Illustration: AN AFRICAN BELLE.] - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -RETARDED BY RAINS AND OTHER MISHAPS.--GENERAL DESPONDENCY.--DEATH OF -EDWARD POCOCK.--A CHANGE FOR THE BETTER.--A LAND OF PLENTY.--ARRIVAL AT -VICTORIA LAKE.--NATIVE SONG.--AFLOAT ON THE GREAT LAKE.--TERRIBLE TALES -OF THE INHABITANTS.--ENCOUNTERS WITH THE NATIVES.--THE VICTORIA -NILE.--RIPON FALLS.--SPEKE'S EXPLORATIONS.--THE ALEXANDRA NILE.--ARRIVAL -AT KING MTESA'S COURT.--A MAGNIFICENT RECEPTION.--IN THE MONARCH'S -PRESENCE.--STANLEY'S FIRST OPINIONS OF MTESA. - - -When the audience assembled in the evening Frank turned rapidly several -pages of the book and said that Mr. Stanley's expedition was greatly -retarded by the heavy rains which fell frequently and converted the -ground into a water-soaked marsh, through which it was very difficult to -proceed. Christmas day was a day of gloom, as everybody was wet and cold -and hungry; the natives had little grain to sell, and the expedition was -reduced to half-rations of food. - -[Illustration: AN AFRICAN BLACKSMITH'S-SHOP.] - -Mr. Stanley wrote in his diary that he weighed one hundred and eighty -pounds when he left Zanzibar, but his sufferings and lack of nourishing -food had brought him down to one hundred and thirty-four pounds in -thirty-eight days; and the young Englishmen that accompanied him were -similarly reduced. In every new territory they entered they were -obliged to pay tribute to the ruler, according to the custom of Africa, -and the settlement of the question of tribute required a great deal of -bargaining. There were frequent desertions of men, and in many instances -they had not the honesty to leave behind them their loads and guns. At -one place it was discovered that fifty men had formed a conspiracy to -desert in a body, but the scheme was stopped by arresting the -ringleaders and disarming their followers. - -"Some twenty or more men were on the sick-list and too ill to walk," -said Frank, "several were carried in hammocks, and others were left at -the native villages, in accordance with the arrangements made at -Zanzibar. The expedition halted four days at Suna, in the Warimi -country, where grain was purchased at a high price, and the people -seemed inclined to make trouble. The leader of the expedition was -obliged to use a great deal of tact to conciliate the chiefs of this -people, who are numerous and well-armed, so that an attack would have -been no easy matter to resist. Edward Pocock was taken seriously ill at -Suna, and carried in a hammock to Chiwyu--four hundred miles from the -coast, and at an elevation of five thousand four hundred feet above the -sea. In spite of all the attentions he received, he died soon after -their arrival at the latter place. I will read Stanley's account of the -burial of his faithful companion and friend: - -[Illustration: FUNERAL OF EDWARD POCOCK: VIEW OF OUR CAMP.] - - "We excavated a grave, four feet deep, at the foot of a hoary - acacia with wide-spreading branches; and on its ancient trunk Frank - engraved a deep cross, the emblem of the faith we all believe in; - and, when folded in its shroud, we laid the body in its final - resting-place, during the last gleams of sunset. We read the - beautiful prayers of the church-service for the dead, and, out of - respect for the departed--whose frank, sociable, and winning - manners had won their friendship and regard--nearly all the - Wangwana were present, to pay a last tribute of sighs to poor - Edward Pocock. - - "When the last solemn prayer had been read, we retired to our - tents, to brood, in sorrow and silence, over our irreparable loss." - -[Illustration] - -"By the 21st of January," said Frank, "eighty-nine men had deserted, -twenty had died, and there were many sick or disabled. Mr. Stanley would -have been justified in fearing that he would be obliged to abandon his -expedition and retreat to the coast. The loads were reduced as much as -possible, every article that could in any way be spared being thrown out -and destroyed. On the 24th the natives attacked the camp, but were -driven back; and another battle followed on the 25th, with the same -result. On the 26th the march was resumed, and the hostile region was -left behind. New men were engaged at some of the villages, the weather -improved, provisions were abundant, and in the early days of February -the halting-places of the expedition presented a marked contrast to -those of a month earlier. - -[Illustration: AN AFRICAN LAMB.] - -"The country in which they were now travelling," Frank continued, "was a -fertile region, with broad pastures, and occasional stretches of -forest--a land of plenty and promise. The natives had an abundance of -cattle, sheep, goats, and chickens, which they sold at low prices; they -were entirely friendly to the travellers, and whenever the expedition -moved away from its camps, it was urged to come again. Mr. Stanley gives -the following list of prices, which he paid in this land of abundance: - - "1 ox 6 yards of sheeting. - 1 goat 2 yards of sheeting. - 1 sheep 2 yards of sheeting. - 1 chicken 1 necklace. - 6 chickens 2 yards of sheeting." - -"On the 26th of February it was reported that another day's march would -bring them to the shore of the Great Nyanza, the Victoria Lake. I will -now read you what Mr. Stanley says about this march, and his first view -of the lake. - - "On the morning of the 27th of February we rose up early, and - braced ourselves for the long march of nineteen miles, which - terminated at 4 P.M. at the village of Kagehyi. - - "The people were as keenly alive to the importance of this day's - march, and as fully sensitive to what this final journey to Kagehyi - promised their wearied frames, as we Europeans. They, as well as - ourselves, looked forward to many weeks of rest from our labors and - to an abundance of good food. - - "When the bugle sounded the signal to 'Take the road,' the - Wanyamwezi and Wangwana responded to it with cheers, and loud cries - of 'Ay indeed, ay indeed, please God;' and their good-will was - contagious. The natives, who had mustered strongly to witness our - departure, were affected by it, and stimulated our people by - declaring that the lake was not very far off--'but two or three - hours' walk.' - - "We dipped into the basins and troughs of the land, surmounted - ridge after ridge, crossed water-courses and ravines, passed by - cultivated fields, and through villages smelling strongly of - cattle, by good-natured groups of natives, until, ascending a long, - gradual slope, we heard, on a sudden, hurrahing in front, and then - we too, with the lagging rear, knew that those in the van were in - view of the Great Lake! the lake which Speke discovered in 1858. - - [Illustration: UNYAMWEZI PORTER.] - - "Frank Pocock impetuously strode forward until he gained the brow - of the hill. He took a long, sweeping look at something, waved his - hat, and came down towards us, his face beaming with joy, as he - shouted out enthusiastically, with the fervor of youth and high - spirits, 'I have seen the lake, sir, and it is grand!' Frederick - Barker, riding painfully on an ass, and sighing wearily from - illness and the length of the journey, lifted his head to smile his - thanks to his comrade. - - "Presently we also reached the brow of the hill, where we found the - expedition halted, and the first quick view revealed to us a long, - broad arm of water, which a dazzling sun transformed into silver, - some six hundred feet below us, at the distance of three miles. - - "A more careful and detailed view of the scene showed us that the - hill on which we stood sloped gradually to the broad bay or gulf - edged by a line of green, wavy reeds and thin groves of umbrageous - trees scattered along the shore, on which stood several small - villages of conical huts. Beyond these, the lake stretched like a - silvery plain far to the eastward, and away across to a boundary of - dark-blue hills and mountains, while several gray, rocky islets - mocked us at first with an illusion of Arab dhows with white sails. - The Wanyamwezi struck up the song of triumph: - - "'Sing, O friends, sing; the journey is ended: - Sing aloud, O friends, sing to the great Nyanza. - Sing all, sing loud, O friends, sing to the great sea; - Give your last look to the lands behind and then turn to the sea. - - "'Long time ago you left your lands, - Your wives and children, your brothers and your friends: - Tell me, have you seen a sea like this - Since you left the great salt sea? - - "CHORUS. - - "'Then sing, O friends, sing; the journey is ended: - Sing aloud, O friends: sing to this great sea. - This sea is fresh, is good, and sweet; - Your sea is salt, and bad, unfit to drink. - This sea is like wine to drink for thirsty men; - The salt sea--bah! it makes men sick.' - - "I have in the above (as literal a translation as I can render it) - made no attempt at rhyme--nor, indeed, did the young, handsome, and - stalwart Corypheus who delivered the harmonious strains with such - startling effect. The song, though extemporized, was eminently - dramatic, and when the chorus joined in it made the hills ring with - a wild and strange harmony. Reanimated by the cheerful music, we - flung the flags to the breeze, and filed slowly down the slopes - towards the fields of Kagehyi. - - "About half a mile from the villages we were surprised by seeing - hundreds of warriors decked with feathered head-dresses and armed - to the teeth, advancing on the run towards us, and exhibiting, as - they came, their dexterity with bows and arrows and spears. They - had at first been alarmed at the long procession filing down the - hill, supposing we were bent on hostilities, but, though - discovering their error, they still thought it too good an - opportunity to be lost for showing their bravery, and therefore - amused us with this by-play. Sungoro Tarib, an Arab resident at - Kagehyi, also despatched a messenger with words of welcome, and an - invitation to us to make Kagehyi our camp, as Prince Kaduma, chief - of Kagehyi, was his faithful ally. - - [Illustration: VIEW OF KAGEHYI FROM THE EDGE OF THE LAKE. - - (_From a Photograph._)] - - "In a short time we had entered the wretched-looking village, and - Kaduma was easily induced by Sungoro to proffer hospitalities to - the strangers. A small conical hut, about twenty feet in diameter, - badly lighted, and with a strong smell of animal matter--its roof - swarmed with bold rats, which, with a malicious persistence, kept - popping in and out of their nests in the straw roof, and rushing - over the walls--was placed at my disposal as a store-room. Another - small hut was presented to Frank Pocock and Fred Barker as their - quarters. - - "In summing up, during the evening of our arrival at this rude - village on the Nyanza, the number of statute miles travelled by us, - as measured by two rated pedometers and pocket watch, I ascertained - it to be seven hundred and twenty. The time occupied--from November - 17, 1874, to February 27, 1875, inclusive--was one hundred and - three days, divided into seventy marching and thirty-three halting - days, by which it will be perceived that our marches averaged a - little over ten miles per day. But as halts are imperative, the - more correct method of ascertaining the rate of travel would be to - include the time occupied by halts and marches, and divide the - total distance by the number of days occupied. This reduces the - rate to seven miles per diem. - - "We all woke on the morning of the 28th of February with a feeling - of intense relief. There were no more marches, no more bugle-calls - to rouse us up for another fatiguing day, no more fear of - hunger--at least for a season. - - "At 9 A.M. a _burzah_, or levee, was held. First came Frank and - Fred--now quite recovered from fever--to bid me good-morning, and - to congratulate themselves and me upon the prospective rest before - us. Next came the Wangwana and Wanyamwezi chiefs, to express a hope - that I had slept well, and after them the bold youths of the - expedition; then came Prince Kaduma and Sungoro, to whom we were - bound this day to render an account of the journey and to give the - latest news from Zanzibar; and, lastly, the princess and her - principal friends--for introductions have to be undergone in this - land as in others. The _burzah_ lasted two hours, after which my - visitors retired to pursue their respective avocations, which I - discovered to be principally confined, on the part of the natives, - to gossiping, making or repairing fishing-nets, hatchets, canoes, - food-troughs, village fences, and huts, and on the part of our - people to arranging plans for building their own grass-huts, being - perfectly content to endure a long stay at Kagehyi. - - [Illustration: FRANK POCOCK. - - (_From a Photograph taken at Kagehyi._)] - - "Though the people had only their own small domestic affairs to - engage their attentions, and Frank and Fred were for this day - relieved from duty, I had much to do--observations to take to - ascertain the position of Kagehyi, and its altitude above the sea; - to prepare paper, pens, and ink for the morrow's report to the - journals which had despatched me to this remote and secluded part - of the globe; to make calculations of the time likely to be - occupied in a halt at Kagehyi, in preparing and equipping the _Lady - Alice_ for sea, and in circumnavigating the great 'Nianja,' as the - Wasukuma call the lake.[3] It was also incumbent upon me to - ascertain the political condition of the country before leaving - the port and the camp, that my mind might be at rest about its - safety during my contemplated absence. Estimates were also to be - entered upon as to the quantity of cloth and beads likely to be - required for the provisioning of the expeditionary force during my - absence, and as to the amount of tribute and presents to be - bestowed upon the King of Uchambi--of which Kagehyi was only a - small district, and to whom Prince Kaduma was only a subordinate - and tributary. In brief, my own personal work was but begun, and - pages would not suffice to describe in detail the full extent of - the new duties now devolving upon me. - - [3] Captain Speke spelled it "Nyanza," which means "lake," or - "great water." Out of regard to the work of the great explorer the - name has been retained. - - [Illustration: AFRICAN ARMS AND ORNAMENTS.] - - "The village of Kagehyi, in the Uchambi district and country of - Usukuma, became after our arrival a place of great local - importance. It attracted an unusual number of native traders from - all sides within a radius of twenty or thirty miles. Fishermen from - Ukerewé, whose purple hills we saw across the arm of the lake, came - in their canoes, with stores of dried fish; the people of Igusa, - Sima, and Magu, east of us in Usukuma, brought their cassava, or - manioc, and ripe bananas; the herdsmen of Usmau, thirty miles south - of Kagehyi, sent their oxen; and the tribes of Muanza--famous - historically as being the point whence Speke first saw this broad - gulf of Lake Victoria--brought their hoes, iron wire, and salt, - besides great plenty of sweet potatoes and yams. - - "Within seven days the _Lady Alice_ was ready, and strengthened for - a rough sea-life. Provisions of flour and dried fish, bales of - cloth and beads of various kinds, odds and ends of small possible - necessaries were boxed, and she was declared at last to be only - waiting for her crew. 'Would any one volunteer to accompany me?' A - dead silence ensued. 'Not for rewards and extra pay?' Another dead - silence: no one would volunteer. - - "'Yet I must,' said I, 'depart. Will you let me go alone?' - - "'No.' - - "'What then? Show me my braves--those men who freely enlist to - follow their master round the sea.' - - "All were again dumb. Appealed to individually, each said he knew - nothing of sea life; each man frankly declared himself a terrible - coward on water. - - "'Then what am I to do?' - - "Manwa Sera said: - - "'Master, have done with these questions. Command your party. All - your people are your children, and they will not disobey you. While - you ask them as a friend, no one will offer his services. Command - them, and they will all go.' - - [Illustration: VIEW NEAR VICTORIA LAKE.] - - "So I selected a chief, Wadi Safeni--the son of Safeni--and told - him to pick out the elect of the young men. Wadi Safeni chose men - who knew nothing of boat-life. Then I called Kachéché, the - detective, and told him to ascertain the names of those young men - who were accustomed to sea-life, upon which Kachéché informed me - that the young guides first selected by me at Bagamoyo were the - sailors of the expedition. After reflecting upon the capacities of - the younger men, as they had developed themselves on the road, I - made a list of ten sailors and a steersman, to whose fidelity I was - willing to intrust myself and fortunes while coasting round the - Victoria sea. - - "Accordingly, after drawing up instructions for Frank Pocock and - Fred Barker, on about a score of matters concerning the well-being - of the expedition during my absence, and enlisting for them, by an - adequate gift, the good-will of Sungoro and Prince Kaduma, I set - sail on the 8th of March, 1875, eastward along the shores of the - broad arm of the lake which we first sighted, and which - henceforward is known, in honor of its first discoverer, as 'Speke - Gulf.' - - [Illustration: DWELLERS ON THE SHORE OF THE LAKE.] - - "The reluctance of my followers to venture upon Lake Victoria was - due to what they had heard about it from Prince Kaduma's people. - 'There were,' they said, 'a people dwelling on its shores who were - gifted with tails; another who trained enormous and fierce dogs for - war; another a tribe of cannibals, who preferred human flesh to all - other kinds of meat. The lake was so large it would take years to - trace its shores, and who then at the end of that time would remain - alive?' Its opposite shores, from their very vagueness of outline, - and its people, from the distorting fogs of misrepresentation - through which we saw them, only heightened the fears of my men as - to the dangers which filled the prospect." - -"Mr. Stanley explored the shores of Speke Gulf," said Frank, after a -short pause, "and then proceeded to follow the eastern shore of the -great lake, which stretched out to the east and north apparently as -limitless as the ocean. On the islands of Speke Gulf he found great -numbers of crocodiles, and at almost every step he took among the reeds, -on the shore of one of the islands, a huge crocodile rushed past him -into the water. Hippopotami were numerous, some of them coming -disagreeably near to his boat, and evidently desiring to make his -acquaintance. The natives around the gulf were not hostile, but caused -despondency in the hearts of Stanley's men by predicting that it would -take him eight years to circumnavigate the lake. - -"But on the shores of the lake itself the people showed signs of -hostility, and came to the water's edge with their spears and shields. -On such occasions the party kept away from land and parleyed at a safe -distance. Once a war-canoe carrying some forty men armed with spears and -slings came close alongside the _Lady Alice_; the men in the canoe were -insolent and evidently wanted to fight. Before beginning, however, they -exhibited their skill by throwing stones with their slings, and whenever -they made good shots the strangers applauded and smiled. In fact, they -had been smiling all the time since the canoe came alongside. - -"When he considered the time had come to put an end to their insolence, -Mr. Stanley drew his revolver and fired rapidly into the water in the -direction where the last stone had been flung. The effect was ludicrous -in the extreme, as none of the fellows had ever before heard the sound -of a firearm. They sprang into the water and swam away for dear life, -leaving their canoe in the hands of the strangers. They were finally -coaxed back, but were more respectful in their demeanor. - -"At another time," said Frank, "the natives came with a large fleet of -canoes and attacked the _Lady Alice_, but were driven off without -serious difficulty. Mr. Stanley's plan was, in fights of this sort, to -use his large rifle with explosive shells, which he aimed just at the -water-line of the canoes. The craft would thus be sunk or disabled, -while the crew, who are all good swimmers, ran no risk of being drowned. -Pursuit would thus be stopped, and the _Lady Alice_ have plenty of time -to escape. - -[Illustration: THE "LADY ALICE" AT BRIDGE ISLAND, VICTORIA NYANZA.] - -"Without accident, the adventurous party reached the outlet of the lake -and visited Ripon Falls, the head of the Victoria Nile, which flows -into the Albert Nyanza. The latter lake is the source of the White -Nile--the Nile of Egypt, and one of the historic rivers of the world." - -[Illustration: VIEW OF THE BAY LEADING TO RUGEDZI CHANNEL FROM KIGOMA, -NEAR KISORYA, SOUTH SIDE OF UKEREWÉ, COAST OF SPEKE GULF. - -(_From a Photograph by Mr. Stanley._)] - -One of the youths asked how the Ripon Falls received that name. - -"The name was given by Captain Speke, the first white man who ever saw -the falls," replied Frank. "He may be called their discoverer, as the -visit to the falls was made during his exploration of the Victoria -Nyanza. At the time his expedition was fitted out, the Marquis of Ripon -was the president of the Royal Geographical Society, and hence the name -that Captain Speke gave to the falls." - -"I suppose, then, that the Victoria Nyanza, or Victoria Lake, is the -source of the Nile," another of Frank's auditors remarked. - -Frank looked inquiringly at Doctor Bronson, who immediately came to the -youth's assistance. - -"For all practical purposes," said the Doctor, "Captain Speke's claim -that he had discovered the source of the Nile when he found the stream -which drained the lake, was a just one. But by common consent of -geographers the source of a river is the brook or rivulet, however tiny, -that rises farthest from its mouth. Adopting this as a rule, the source -of the Nile was not the Victoria Lake itself, but its longest affluent, -and this is a question not yet fully determined, though it is fairly -well settled that the honor belongs to the Alexandra Nile, or Kagera -River, which is certainly the longest affluent of the lake. The Kagera -River flows from Alexandra Lake, which lies nearly due west from the -southern end of Victoria Lake; the distance is about one hundred and -fifty miles in a direct line, but much greater according to the African -routes of travel." - -"Did Mr. Stanley visit Alexandra Lake and find out what streams flowed -into it?" one of the youths inquired, as Doctor Bronson paused. - -"He was unable to do so," was the reply, "and no other traveller has yet -completed the exploration. Some geographers think that the longest -affluent of Lake Victoria will yet prove to be one of the streams coming -in from the eastward, and having its source at the base of Mount -Kilima-Njaro; but until this is shown to be an established fact, we may -assume that the Alexandra Nile is the head of the great river of Egypt, -as it certainly is the largest stream that flows into Victoria Lake." - -[Illustration: VIEW OF RIPON FALLS FROM THE UGANDA SIDE. - -(_From a Photograph by Mr. Stanley._)] - -"Are there any other falls on the Victoria Nile besides the Ripon Falls -just mentioned?" was the next inquiry from the audience. - -"There are several falls and rapids on the stream," the Doctor answered, -"the most important being Murchison Falls, not far from where the -Victoria Nile emerges into Albert Lake. Lake Albert is more than a -thousand feet below the level of Lake Victoria, and therefore you may -expect a rapid descent of the river that connects these two bodies of -water. - -[Illustration: DRESSED FOR COLD WEATHER.] - -"During the time that Egypt had partial control of the lake region of -Central Africa, its government established a military station at -Foueira, on the Victoria Nile, just above the Kuruma Falls. The river -was explored from one end to the other, and it was ascertained that, -though there were several places where for many miles the current was -comparatively placid, there were so many falls and rapids that -navigation was practically impossible. Consequently no use was made of -the stream, and all expeditions through that region travel by land. -Unless an expedition is sufficiently powerful to force its way, -travellers avoid the villages and keep as much as possible in the -wilderness, to escape the extortionate demands of its petty chiefs, who -invariably demand a high tribute. Whatever they see they want, and it -requires a great deal of diplomacy to escape from them without being -stripped of everything of any value. - -"But we are wandering from the route where we left Mr. Stanley," said -Doctor Bronson, "and will now turn back to see where he went after -visiting Ripon Falls. Frank will inform us." - -Under this hint Frank continued: - -"Where the lake narrows at the head of the Victoria Nile, or just above -the falls, there is a V-shaped bay which is called Napoleon Channel. On -the east of this channel is the country of Usoga, and on the west that -of Uganda. The latter is the territory of the famous King Mtesa, or -rather it was his territory at the time of Mr. Stanley's visit, as he -has since died and left the kingdom to his son. - -"Mr. Stanley found the people of Uganda friendly; and by one of the -local chiefs he sent a message to the king to announce his coming. Then -he waited at one of the islands until the chief returned with Mtesa's -reply, which was that Stanley should come and see him. Escorted by a -small fleet of war-canoes, commanded by a native named Magassa, he -proceeded on his journey to Usavara, the port of Mtesa's capital, about -ten miles farther inland. I will read Mr. Stanley's account of his -reception. - - "When about two miles from Usavara we saw what we estimated to be - thousands of people arranging themselves in order on a gently - rising ground. When about a mile from the shore Magassa gave the - order to signal our advance upon it with firearms, and was at once - obeyed by his dozen musketeers. Half a mile off I saw that the - people on the shore had formed themselves into two dense lines, at - the ends of which stood several finely-dressed men, arrayed in - crimson and black and snowy white. As we neared the beach volleys - of musketry burst out from the long lines. Magassa's canoes steered - outward to right and left, while two or three hundred - heavily-loaded guns announced to all around that the white man had - landed. Numerous kettle and bass drums sounded a noisy welcome, and - flags, banners, and bannerets waved, and the people gave a great - shout. Very much amazed at all this ceremonious and pompous - greeting, I strode up towards the great standard, near which stood - a short young man, dressed in a crimson robe, which covered an - immaculately white dress of bleached cotton, before whom Magassa, - who had hurried ashore, kneeled reverently, and turning to me - begged me to understand that this short young man was the - _katekiro_. Not knowing very well who the "katekiro" was, I only - bowed, which, strange to say, was imitated by him, only that his - bow was far more profound and stately than mine. I was perplexed, - confused, embarrassed, and I believe I blushed inwardly at this - regal reception, though I hope I did not betray any embarrassment. - - [Illustration: THE VICTORIA NILE, NORTH OF RIPON FALLS, RUSHING - TOWARDS UNYORO, FROM THE USOGO SIDE OF THE FALLS. - - (_From a Photograph by Mr. Stanley._)] - - "A dozen well-dressed people now came forward, and grasping my hand - declared in the Swahili language that I was welcome to Uganda. The - _katekiro_ motioned with his head, and amid a perfect concourse of - beaten drums, which drowned all conversation, we walked side by - side, and followed by curious thousands, to a courtyard, and a - circle of grass-thatched huts surrounding a larger house, which I - was told were my quarters. - - [Illustration: RECEPTION BY KING MTESA'S BODY-GUARD AT USAVARA.] - - "The _katekiro_ and several of the chiefs accompanied me to my new - hut, and a very sociable conversation took place. There was present - a native of Zanzibar, named Tori, whom I shortly discovered to be - chief drummer, engineer, and general jack-of-all-trades for the - _kabaka_ (king). From this clever, ingenious man I obtained the - information that the _katekiro_ was the prime-minister or the - _kabaka_'s deputy, and that the titles of the other chiefs were - Chambarango, Kangau, Mkwenda, Sekebobo, Kitunzi, Sabaganzi, Kauta, - Saruti. There were several more present, but I must defer mention - of them to other chapters. - - "Waganda,[4] as I found subsequently, are not in the habit of - remaining incurious before a stranger. Hosts of questions were - fired off at me about my health, my journey and its aim, Zanzibar, - Europe and its people, the seas and the heavens, sun, moon, and - stars, angels and devils, doctors, priests, and craftsmen in - general; in fact, as the representative of nations who 'know - everything,' I was subjected to a most searching examination, and - in one hour and ten minutes it was declared unanimously that I - had 'passed.' Forthwith, after the acclamation, the stately bearing - became merged into a more friendly one, and long, thin, nervous - black hands were pushed into mine enthusiastically, from which I - gathered that they applauded me as though I had won the honors of a - senior wrangler. Some proceeded direct to the _kabaka_ and informed - him that the white man was a genius, knew everything, and was - remarkably polite and sociable, and the _kabaka_ was said to have - 'rubbed his hands as though he had just come into the possession of - a treasure.' - - [4] Waganda signifies "people of Uganda." The prefix Ki, as in - Ki-Swahili or Ki-Sagara, denotes language of Swahili or Sagara. The - prefix U represents country; Wa, a plural, denoting people; M, - singular, for a person, thus: - - U-Sagara. Country of Sagara. - - Wa-Sagara. People of Sagara. - - M-Sagara. A person of Sagara. - - Ki-Sagara. Language of Sagara, or after the custom, manner, or - style of Sagara, as English stands in like manner for anything - relating to England. - - "The fruits of the favorable verdict passed upon myself and merits - were seen presently in fourteen fat oxen, sixteen goats and sheep, - a hundred bunches of bananas, three dozen fowls, four wooden jars - of milk, four baskets of sweet potatoes, fifty cars of green Indian - corn, a basket of rice, twenty fresh eggs, and ten pots of mararaba - wine. Kauta, Mtesa's steward or butler, at the head of the drovers - and bearers of these various provisions, fell on his knees before - me and said: - - "'The _kabaka_ sends salaams unto his friend who has travelled so - far to see him. The _kabaka_ cannot see the face of his friend - until he has eaten and is satisfied. The _kabaka_ has sent his - slave with these few things to his friend that he may eat, and at - the ninth hour, after his friend has rested, the _kabaka_ will send - and call for him to appear at the _burzah_. I have spoken. - _Twi-yanzi-yanzi-yanzi!_' (thanks, thanks, thanks). - - "I replied suitably, though my politeness was not so excessive as - to induce me to kneel before the courtly butler and thank him for - permission to say I thanked him. - - [Illustration: WAITING ORDERS.] - - "The ninth hour of the day approached. We had bathed, brushed, - cleaned ourselves, and were prepared externally and mentally for - the memorable hour when we should meet the foremost man of - equatorial Africa. Two of the _kabaka_'s pages, clad in a costume - semi-Kingwana and semi-Kiganda, came to summon us--the Kingwana - part being the long white shirt of Zanzibar, folded with a belt or - band about the loins, the Kiganda part being the Sohari doti cloth - depending from the right shoulder to the feet. 'The _kabaka_ - invites you to the _burzah_,' said they. Forthwith we issue from - our courtyard, five of the boat's crew on each side of me, armed - with Snider rifles. We reach a short, broad street, at the end of - which is a hut. Here the _kabaka_ is seated with a multitude of - chiefs, Wakungu[5] and Watongoleh, ranked from the throne in two - opposing kneeling or seated lines, the ends being closed in by - drummers, guards, executioners, pages, etc., etc. As we approached - the nearest group it opened and the drummers beat mighty sounds, - Tori's drumming being conspicuous from its sharper beat. The - foremost man of equatorial Africa rises and advances, and all the - kneeling and seated lines rise--generals, colonels, chiefs, cooks, - butlers, pages, executioners, etc., etc. - - [5] Wakungu is the plural of _mkungu_, a rank equivalent to - "general." Watongoleh is the plural of _mtongoleh_, or "colonel." - - [Illustration: SEKEBOBO, CHIEF OF CHAGWÉ. POKINO, THE - PRIME-MINISTER. MTESA, THE EMPEROR OF UGANDA. CHAMBARANGO, THE - CHIEF. - - OTHER CHIEFS. - - (_From a Photograph by Mr. Stanley._)] - - "The _kabaka_, a tall, clean-faced, large-eyed, nervous-looking, - thin man, clad in a tarbush, black robe, with a white shirt belted - with gold, shook my hands warmly and impressively, and, bowing not - ungracefully, invited me to be seated on an iron stool. I waited - for him to show the example, and then I and all the others seated - ourselves. - - "He first took a deliberate survey of me, which I returned with - interest, for he was as interesting to me as I was to him. His - impression of me was that I was younger than Speke, not so tall, - but better dressed. This I gathered from his criticisms, as - confided to his chiefs and favorites. - - "My impression of him was that he and I would become better - acquainted, that I should make a convert of him, and make him - useful to Africa--but what other impressions I had may be gathered - from the remarks I wrote that evening in my diary: - - [Illustration: DWARF AT THE KING'S COURT.] - - "'As I had read Speke's book for the sake of its geographical - information, I retained but a dim remembrance of his description of - his life in Uganda. If I remember rightly, Speke described a - youthful prince, vain and heartless, a wholesale murderer and - tyrant, one who delighted in fat women. Doubtless he described what - he saw, but it is far from being the state of things now. Mtesa has - impressed me as being an intelligent and distinguished prince, who, - if aided in time by virtuous philanthropists, will do more for - Central Africa than fifty years of gospel teaching, unaided by such - authority, can do. I think I see in him the light that shall - lighten the darkness of this benighted region; a prince well worthy - the most hearty sympathies that Europe can give him. In this man I - see the possible fruition of Livingstone's hopes, for with his aid - the civilization of equatorial Africa becomes feasible. I remember - the ardor and love which animated Livingstone when he spoke of - Sekeletu; had he seen Mtesa, his ardor and love for him had been - tenfold, and his pen and tongue would have been employed in calling - all good men to assist him.' - - "Five days later I wrote the following entry: - - "'I see that Mtesa is a powerful emperor, with great influence over - his neighbors. I have to-day seen the turbulent Mankorongo, King of - Usui, and Mirambo, that terrible phantom who disturbs men's minds - in Unyamwezi, through their embassies kneeling and tendering their - tribute to him. I saw over three thousand soldiers of Mtesa nearly - half civilized. I saw about a hundred chiefs who might be classed - in the same scale as the men of Zanzibar and Oman, clad in as rich - robes and armed in the same fashion, and have witnessed with - astonishment such order and law as is obtainable in semi-civilized - countries. All this is the result of a poor Muslim's labor; his - name is Muley bin Salim. He it was who first began teaching here - the doctrines of Islam. False and contemptible as these doctrines - are, they are preferable to the ruthless instincts of a savage - despot, whom Speke and Grant left wallowing in the blood of women, - and I honor the memory of Muley bin Salim--Muslim and slave-trader - though he be--the poor priest who has wrought this happy change. - With a strong desire to improve still more the character of Mtesa, - I shall begin building on the foundation-stones laid by Muley bin - Salim. I shall destroy his belief in Islam, and teach the doctrines - of Jesus of Nazareth.' - - "It may easily be gathered from these entries that a feeling of - admiration for Mtesa must have begun very early, and that either - Mtesa is a very admirable man, or that I am a very impressionable - traveller, or that Mtesa is so perfect in the art of duplicity and - acted so clever a part, that I became his dupe." - -Here Frank paused, and suggested that they would leave Mr. Stanley with -the King of Uganda until the next day, when Fred would take up the -reading during the afternoon and evening. As it was near the time for -retiring, no one made any objection to adjournment, and in a very few -minutes the members of the impromptu geographical society had -dispersed. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -PERSONAL APPEARANCE OF KING MTESA.--HIS RECEPTION OF MR. STANLEY.--A -NAVAL REVIEW.--STANLEY'S MARKSMANSHIP.--THE KING'S PALACE.--RUBAGA, THE -KING'S CAPITAL.--RECEPTION AT THE PALACE.--MEETING COLONEL LINANT DE -BELLEFONDS.--CONVERTING MTESA TO CHRISTIANITY.--APPEAL FOR MISSIONARIES -TO BE SENT TO MTESA.--DEPARTURE FOR USUKUMU.--FIGHT WITH THE NATIVES AT -BUMBIREH ISLAND.--SUFFERINGS OF STANLEY AND HIS COMPANIONS ON LAKE -VICTORIA.--A NARROW ESCAPE.--RETURN TO KAGEHYI.--DEATH OF FRED -BARKER.--EMBARKING THE EXPEDITION.--KING LUKONGEH AND HIS PEOPLE. - - -It was Fred's turn to read on the second day of the voyage, and early in -the morning he began his preparations. With the aid of Mr. Stanley he -marked the portions of the chapters that he would read and those that -could be omitted in view of the brief time at their disposal. At the -opening of the afternoon session of his geographical society Fred -announced that he would begin the day's work by reading the description -of King Mtesa's personal appearance as Mr. Stanley has recorded it. - -[Illustration: THE KING'S DINNER-DISH.] - - "In person Mtesa is tall, probably six feet one inch, and slender. - He has very intelligent and agreeable features, reminding me of - some of the faces of the great stone images at Thebes, and of the - statues in the museum at Cairo. He has the same fulness of lips, - but their grossness is relieved by the general expression of - amiability blended with dignity that pervades his face, and the - large, lustrous, lambent eyes that lend it a strange beauty, and - are typical of the race from which I believe him to have sprung. - His color is of a dark red-brown, of a wonderfully smooth surface. - When not engaged in council he throws off unreservedly the bearing - that characterizes him when on the throne, and gives rein to his - humor, indulging in hearty peals of laughter. He seems to be - interested in the discussion of the manners and customs of - European courts, and to be enamoured of hearing of the wonders of - civilization. He is ambitious to imitate, as much as lies in his - power, the ways of the white man. When any piece of information is - given him, he takes upon himself the task of translating it to his - wives and chiefs, though many of the latter understand the Swahili - language as well as he does himself." - -"Mr. Stanley writes that the king treated him with great courtesy," said -Fred, after a short pause, "and they evidently liked each other's -acquaintance. One day the king invited him to witness a naval review on -the waters of Murchison Bay, on which Usavara is situated; at a signal -from Mtesa forty magnificent canoes, each rowed by thirty men, swept -around a point of land and drew up in front of the shore where the king -and his guest and attendants were stationed. The captain of each canoe -was dressed in a white cotton shirt and a cloth head-cover, neatly -folded turban fashion, while the admiral wore over his shirt a crimson -jacket, profusely decorated with gold braid, and on his head the red fez -of Zanzibar. Each captain, as he passed the king, seized shield and -spear, and went through the performance of defence and attack by water. - -"When the review was over the king asked Stanley, whom he called -Stamlee, to show him how the white men could shoot. It was a heavy -responsibility to be thus the representative of the shooting abilities -of the whole white race, but there was no way of escaping it. A young -crocodile was asleep on the rocks, and Stanley nearly severed its head -from its body at the distance of one hundred yards with a three-ounce -ball, an act which was accepted as conclusive proof that all white men -are dead-shots. - -"And now," said Fred, "I will read the account of Mr. Stanley's visit to -Rubaga, the capital city of Uganda. It is about ten miles from Usavara, -the place where Mr. Stanley met the king, as has just been described. -His majesty was on a hunting excursion at Usavara at the time of the -explorer's arrival; he was accompanied by his court, after the manner of -the kings of other countries under similar circumstances. - - "On the 10th of April the court broke up its hunting-lodges at - Usavara, on Murchison Bay, and moved to the capital, whither I was - strongly urged to follow. Mtesa, escorted by about two hundred - musketeers and the great Wakungu and their armed retainers, - travelled quickly; but owing to my being obliged to house my boat - from the hot sun, I did not reach the capital until 1 P.M. - - "The road had been prepared for his Imperial Majesty's hunting - excursion, and was eight feet wide, through jungle and garden, - forest and field. Beautiful landscapes were thus enjoyed of rolling - land and placid lake, of gigantic tamarinds and gum-trees, of - extensive banana groves and plantations of the ficus, from the - bark of which the national dress, or _mbugu_, is made. The - peculiar domelike huts, each with an attempt at a portico, were - buried deep in dense bowers of plantains which filled the air with - the odor of their mellow rich fruit. - - [Illustration: FISH FOUND IN LAKE VICTORIA. - - Sama-Moa, in the Nyassa tongue; round, open-mouthed, scaled, and - pig-headed-looking creature, twenty inches long.] - - "The road wound upward to the summits of green hills which - commanded exquisite prospects, and down again into the sheltered - bosoms of woody nooks and vales and tree-embowered ravines. Streams - of clear water murmured through these depressions, as they flowed - towards Murchison Bay. The verdure was of a brilliant green, - freshened by the unfailing rains of the equator; the sky was of the - bluest, and the heat, though great, was tempered by the hill - breezes, and frequently by the dense foliage overhead. - - "Within three hours' march from Usavara, we saw the capital - crowning the summit of a smooth, rounded hill--a large cluster of - tall, conical grass huts, in the centre of which rose a spacious, - lofty, barnlike structure. The large building, we were told, was - the palace! the hill, Rubaga; the cluster of huts, the imperial - capital! - - "From each side of the tall cane fence enclosing the grass huts on - Rubaga hill radiated very broad avenues, imperial enough in width. - Arriving at the base of the hill, and crossing by a 'corduroy' road - over a broad slimy ooze, we came up to one of these avenues, the - ground of which was a reddish clay strongly mixed with the detritus - of hematite. It gave a clear breadth of one hundred feet of - prepared ground, and led by a gradual ascent to the circular road - which made the circuit of the hill outside the palace enclosure. - Once on the domelike height, we saw that we had arrived by the back - avenue, for the best view of this capital of magnificent distances - was that which was obtained by looking from the _burzah_ of the - palace, and carrying the eye over the broad front highway, on each - side of which, as far as could be defined from the shadows of the - _burzah_, the Wakungu had their respective courts and houses, - embowered in gardens of banana and fig. Like the enclosure round - the palace courts and quarters, each avenue was fenced with tall - _mateté_ (water cane) neatly set very close together in uniform - rows. The by-streets leading from one avenue to another were narrow - and crooked. - - [Illustration: RUBAGA, THE CAPITAL OF THE KING OF UGANDA.] - - "While I stood admiring the view, a page came up, and, kneeling, - announced that he had been despatched by the emperor to show me my - house. Following him, I was ushered within a corner lot of the - fenced square, between two avenues, into what I might appropriately - term a 'garden villa' of Uganda. My house, standing in the centre - of a plantain garden about one hundred feet square, was twenty feet - long, and of a marquee shape, with a miniature portico or eave - projecting like a bonnet over the doorway, and was divided into two - apartments. Close by, about thirty feet off, were three domelike - huts for the boat's crew and the kitchen, and in a corner of the - garden was a railed space for our bullocks and goats. Were it not - that I was ever anxious about my distant camp in Usukuma, I - possessed almost everything requisite to render a month's stay very - agreeable, and for the time I was as proud of my tiny villa as a - London merchant is of his country-house. - - "In the afternoon I was invited to the palace. A number of people - in brown robes, or white dresses, some with white goat-skins over - their brown robes, others with cords folded like a turban round - their heads, which I heard were distinguishing marks of the - executioners, were also ascending to the _burzah_. Court after - court was passed until we finally stood upon the level top in front - of the great house of cane and straw which the Waganda fondly term - _kibuga_, or the palace. The space at least was of aulic extent, - and the prospect gained at every point was also worthy of the - imperial eyes of the African monarch. - - "On all sides rolled in grand waves a voluptuous land of sunshine - and plenty and early summer verdure, cooled by soft breezes from - the great equatorial fresh-water sea. Isolated hill-cones, similar - to that of Rubaga, or square tabular masses, rose up from the - beautiful landscape to attract, like mysteries, the curious - stranger's observation, and villages and banana groves of still - fresher green, far removed on the crest of distant swelling ridges, - announced that Mtesa owned a land worth loving. Dark, sinuous lines - traced the winding courses of deep ravines filled with trees, and - grassy extents of gently undulating ground marked the pastures; - broader depressions suggested the cultivated gardens and the grain - fields, while on the far verge of the horizon we saw the beauty and - the charm of the land melting into the blues of distance. - - "The drums sounded. Mtesa had seated himself on the throne, and we - hastened to take our seats. - - [Illustration: FLEET OF THE KING OF UGANDA, READY FOR WAR.] - - "Since the 5th of April, I had enjoyed ten interviews with Mtesa, - and during all I had taken occasion to introduce topics which would - lead up to the subject of Christianity. Nothing occurred in my - presence but I contrived to turn it towards effecting that which - had become an object to me, viz., his conversion. There was no - attempt made to confuse him with the details of any particular - doctrine. I simply drew for him the image of the Son of God - humbling himself for the good of all mankind, white and black, and - told him how, while he was in man's disguise, he was seized and - crucified by wicked people who scorned his divinity, and yet out of - his great love for them, while yet suffering on the cross, he asked - his great Father to forgive them. I showed the difference in - character between him whom white men love and adore, and Mohammed, - whom the Arabs revere; how Jesus endeavored to teach mankind that - we should love all men, excepting none, while Mohammed taught his - followers that the slaying of the pagan and the unbeliever was an - act that merited Paradise. I left it to Mtesa and his chiefs to - decide which was the worthier character. I also sketched in brief - the history of religious belief from Adam to Mohammed. I had also - begun to translate to him the Ten Commandments, and Idi, the - emperor's writer, transcribed in Kiganda the words of the Law as - given to him in choice Swahili by Robert Feruzi, one of my boat's - crew, and a pupil of the Universities Mission at Zanzibar. - - [Illustration: AUDIENCE-HALL OF THE PALACE AT RUBAGA.] - - "The enthusiasm with which I launched into this work of teaching - was soon communicated to Mtesa and some of his principal chiefs, - who became so absorbingly interested in the story as I gave it to - them that little of other business was done. The political _burzah_ - and seat of justice had now become an alcove, where only the moral - and religious laws were discussed. - - "Before we broke up our meeting Mtesa informed me that I should - meet a _white man_ at his palace the next day. - - "'A white man, or a Turk?' - - "'A white man like yourself,' repeated Mtesa. - - "'No; impossible." - - "'Yes, you will see. He comes from Masr (Cairo), from Gordoom - (Gordon) Pasha.' - - "'Ah, very well, I shall be glad to see him, and if he is really a - white man, I may probably stay with you four or five days longer,' - said I to Mtesa, as I shook hands with him, and bade him - good-night. - - "The 'white man,' reported to be coming the next day, arrived at - noon with great _éclat_ and flourishes of trumpets, the sounds of - which could be heard all over the capital. Mtesa hurried off a page - to invite me to his _burzah_. I hastened up by a private entrance. - Mtesa and all his chiefs, guards, pages, executioners, claimants, - guests, drummers, and fifers were already there, _en grande - tenue_. - - "Mtesa was in a fever, as I could see by the paling of the color - under his eyes and his glowing eyeballs. The chiefs shared their - master's excitement. - - "'What shall we do,' he asked, 'to welcome him?' - - "'Oh, form your troops in line from the entrance to the _burzah_ - down to the gate of the outer court, and present arms, and as he - comes within the gate let your drums and fifes sound a loud - welcome.' - - [Illustration: WOODEN KETTLE-DRUM.] - - "'Beautiful!' said Mtesa. 'Hurry Tori, Chambarango, Sekebobo; form - them in two lines just as Stamlee says. Oh, that is beautiful! And - shall we fire guns, Stamlee?' - - "'No, not until you shake hands with him; and, as he is a soldier, - let the guards fire, then they will not injure any one.' - - "Mtesa's flutter of excitement on this occasion made me think that - there must have been a somewhat similar scene before my landing at - Usavara, and that Tori must have been consulted frequently upon the - form of ceremony to be adopted. - - "What followed upon the arrival of the white man at the outer gate - had best be told as an interlude by the stranger himself. - - [Illustration: AFRICAN HATCHET, SPADE, AND ADZE.] - - "'At two o'clock, the weather having cleared up, Mtesa sent a - messenger to inform me that he was ready to receive me. Notice is - given in the camp; every one puts on his finest clothes; at last we - are ready; my brave Soudanians look quite smart in their red - jackets and white trousers. I place myself at their head; trumpets - flourish and drums sound as we follow an avenue from eighty-five to - a hundred yards wide, running direct north and south, and - terminating at Mtesa's palace.... - - "'On entering this court, I am greeted with a frightful uproar; a - thousand instruments, each one more outlandish than the other, - produce the most discordant and deafening sounds. Mtesa's - body-guard carrying guns present arms on my appearance; the king is - standing at the entrance of the reception-hall, I approach and bow - to him _à la turque_. He holds out his hand, which I press; I - immediately perceive a sunburnt European to the left of the king, a - traveller, whom I imagine to be Cameron. We exchange glances - without speaking. - - "'Mtesa enters the reception-room, and we follow him. It is a - narrow hall about sixty feet long by fifteen feet wide, the ceiling - of which, sloping down at the entrance, is supported by a double - row of wooden pillars which divide the room into two aisles. The - principal and central room is unoccupied, and leads to the king's - throne; the two aisles are filled with the great dignitaries and - chief officers. At each pillar stands one of the king's guard, - wearing a long red mantle, a white turban ornamented with - monkey-skin, white trousers and black blouse with a red band. All - are armed with guns. - - "'Mtesa takes his place on his throne, which is a wooden seat in - the shape of an office arm-chair; his feet rest upon a cushion; the - whole placed on a leopard's skin spread over a Smyrna carpet. - Before the king is a highly-polished elephant's tusk, and at his - feet are two boxes containing fetiches; on either side the throne - is a lance (one copper, the other steel), each held by a guard; - these are the insignia of Uganda; the dog which Speke mentions has - been done away with. Crouching at the foot of the king are the - vizier and two scribes. - - "'Mtesa is dignified in his manner, and does not lack a certain - natural air of distinction; his dress is elegant--a white _couftan_ - finished with a red band, stockings, slippers, vest of black cloth - embroidered with gold, and a _tarbouche_ with a silver plate on the - top. He wears a sword with ivory-inlaid hilt (a Zanzibar weapon), - and a staff. - - "'I exhibited my presents, which Mtesa scarcely pretended to see, - his dignity forbidding him to show any curiosity. - - "'I address the traveller, who sits in front of me, on the left of - the king: "Have I the honor of speaking to Mr. Cameron?" - - "'STANLEY. "No, sir; Mr. Stanley." - - "'MYSELF. "M. Linant de Bellefonds, member of the Gordon-Pasha - Expedition." - - "'We bow low to each other, as though we had met in a drawing-room, - and our conversation is at an end for the moment. - - "'This meeting with Mr. Stanley greatly surprises me. Stanley was - far from my thoughts; I was totally ignorant of the object of his - expedition. - - "'I take leave of the king, who meanwhile has been amusing himself - by making my unlucky soldiers parade and flourish their trumpets. I - shake hands with Mr. Stanley, and ask him to honor me with his - presence at dinner.' - - "Colonel Linant de Bellefonds having thus described our meeting, - there remains but little for me to add. - - "As soon as I saw him approaching the _burzah_, I recognized him to - be a Frenchman. Not being introduced to him--and as I was then but - a mere guest of Mtesa, with whom it was M. Linant's first desire - to converse--I simply bowed to him, until he had concluded - addressing the emperor, when our introduction took place as he has - described. - - [Illustration: HEAD OF A "MADOQUA"--SPECIES OF ANTELOPE.] - - "I was delighted at seeing him, and much more delighted when I - discovered that M. Linant was a very agreeable man. I observed that - there was a vast difference between his treatment of his men and - the manner in which I treated mine, and that his intercourse with - the Waganda was conducted after exactly opposite principles to - those which governed my conduct. He adopted a half-military style - which the Waganda ill brooked, and many things uncomplimentary to - him were uttered by them. He stationed guards at the entrance to - his courtyard to keep the Waganda at a distance, except those - bearing messages from Mtesa, while my courtyard was nearly full of - Watongolehs, soldiers, pages, children, with many a dark-brown - woman listening with open ears to my conversation with the Waganda. - In fact, my courtyard from morning to night swarmed with all - classes, for I loved to draw the natives to talk, so that perfect - confidence might be established between us, and I might gain an - insight into their real natures. By this freer converse with them I - became, it seemed, a universal favorite, and obtained information - sufficient to fill two octavo volumes. - - "M. Linant passed many pleasant hours with me. Though he had started - from Cairo previous to my departure from Zanzibar, and consequently - could communicate no news from Europe, I still felt that for a - brief period I enjoyed civilized life. The religious conversations - which I had begun with Mtesa were maintained in the presence of M. - Linant de Bellefonds; when questioned by Mtesa about the facts - which I had uttered, and which had been faithfully transcribed, M. - Linant, to Mtesa's astonishment, employed nearly the same words, - and delivered the same responses. The remarkable fact that two - white men, who had never met before, one having arrived from the - southeast, the other having emerged from the north, should - nevertheless both know the same things, and respond in the same - words, charmed the popular mind without the _burzah_ as a wonder, - and was treasured in Mtesa's memory as being miraculous. - - "The period of my stay with Mtesa drew to a close, and I requested - leave to depart, begging the fulfilment of a promise he had made to - me that he would furnish me with transport sufficient to convey the - expedition by water from Kagehyi in Usukuma to Uganda. Nothing - loath, since one white man would continue his residence with him - till my return, and being eager to see the gifts I told him were - safe at Usukuma, he gave his permission, and commanded Magassa to - collect thirty canoes, and to accompany me to my camp. On the 15th - of April, then, escorted by Magassa and his Watongolehs, and also - by M. Linant and ten of his Nubian soldiers, we left Rubaga and - arrived at Usavara. - - "In the evening I concluded my letters dated 14th of April, 1875, - which were sent to the _Daily Telegraph_ and the New York _Herald_, - the English and American journals I represented here, appealing for - a Christian mission to be sent to Mtesa. - - "The appeal, written hurriedly, and included in the letter left at - Usavara, was as follows: - - "'I have, indeed, undermined Islamism so much here that Mtesa has - determined henceforth, until he is better informed, to observe the - Christian Sabbath as well as the Moslem Sabbath, and the great - captains have unanimously consented to this. He has further caused - the Ten Commandments of Moses to be written on a board for his - daily perusal--for Mtesa can read Arabic--as well as the Lord's - Prayer and the golden commandment of our Saviour, "Thou shalt love - thy neighbor as thyself." This is great progress for the few days - that I have remained with him, and, though I am no missionary, I - shall begin to think that I might become one if such success is - feasible. But, oh! that some pious, practical missionary would come - here! What a field and harvest ripe for the sickle of civilization! - Mtesa would give him anything he desired--houses, lands, cattle, - ivory, etc.; he might call a province his own in one day. It is not - the mere preacher, however, that is wanted here. The bishops of - Great Britain collected, with all the classic youth of Oxford and - Cambridge, would effect nothing by mere talk with the intelligent - people of Uganda. It is the practical Christian tutor, who can - teach people how to become Christians, cure their diseases, - construct dwellings, understand and exemplify agriculture, and turn - his hand to anything, like a sailor--this is the man who is wanted. - Such a one, if he can be found, would become the saviour of Africa. - He must be tied to no church or sect, but profess God and his Son - and the moral law, and live a blameless Christian, inspired by - liberal principles, charity to all men, and devout faith in Heaven. - He must belong to no nation in particular, but to the entire white - race. Such a man, or men, Mtesa, Emperor of Uganda, Usoga, Unyoro, - and Karagwé--an empire three hundred and sixty geographical miles - in length, by fifty in breadth--invites to repair to him. He has - begged me to tell the white men that, if they will only come to - him, he will give them all they want. Now, where is there in all - the pagan world a more promising field for a mission than Uganda? - Colonel Linant de Bellefonds is my witness that I speak the - truth, and I know he will corroborate all I say. The colonel, - though a Frenchman, is a Calvinist, and has become as ardent a - well-wisher for the Waganda as I am. Then why further spend - needlessly vast sums upon black pagans of Africa who have no - example of their own people becoming Christians before them? I - speak to the Universities Mission at Zanzibar and to the Free - Methodists at Mombasa, to the leading philanthropists and the pious - people of England. "Here, gentlemen, is your opportunity--embrace - it! The people on the shores of the Nyanza call upon you. Obey your - own generous instincts, and listen to them; and I assure you that - in one year you will have more converts to Christianity than all - other missionaries united can number. The population of Mtesa's - kingdom is very dense; I estimate the number of his subjects at two - millions. You need not fear to spend money upon such a mission, as - Mtesa is sole ruler, and will repay its cost tenfold with ivory, - coffee, otter-skins of a very fine quality, or even in cattle, for - the wealth of this country in all these products is immense. The - road here is by the Nile, or _via_ Zanzibar, Ugogo, and Unyanyembé. - The former route, so long as Colonel Gordon governs the countries - of the Upper Nile, seems the most feasible."' - - [Illustration: SHUGRANGU HOUSE, AN AFRICAN MISSION STATION, WITH - GRAVE OF MRS. LIVINGSTONE.] - - "When the letters were written and sealed I committed them to the - charge of Colonel Linant. My friend promised he would await my - return from Usukuma; meanwhile he lent me a powerful field-glass, - as mine, being considerably injured, had been given to Mtesa. - - "The parting between M. Linant and myself I shall allow him to - describe: - - "'At 5 A.M. drums are beaten; the boats going with Stanley are - collecting together. - - "'Mr. Stanley and myself are soon ready. The _Lady Alice_ is - unmoored; luggage, sheep, goats, and poultry are already stowed - away in their places. There is nothing to be done except to hoist - the American flag and head the boat southward. I accompany Stanley - to his boat; we shake hands and commend each other to the care of - God. Stanley takes the helm; the _Lady Alice_ immediately swerves - like a spirited horse, and bounds forward lashing the water of the - Nyanza into foam. The starry flag is hoisted, and floats proudly in - the breeze; I immediately raise a loud hurrah with such hearty - good-will as perhaps never before greeted the traveller's ears. - - "'The _Lady Alice_ is already far away. We wave our handkerchiefs - as a last farewell; my heart is full; I have just lost a brother. I - had grown used to seeing Stanley, the open-hearted, sympathetic man - and friend and admirable traveller. With him I forgot my fatigue; - this meeting had been like a return to my own country. His - engaging, instructive conversation made the hours pass like - minutes. I hope I may see him again, and have the happiness of - spending several days with him.'" - -One of the youthful auditors asked at this point what became of Colonel -Linant de Bellefonds. Fred replied as follows to the inquiry: - -"He remained about six weeks at Mtesa's court, looking for the return of -Mr. Stanley. The latter was delayed in various ways, and finally Colonel -Linant started on his return to Gondokoro, to report to his superior -officer, Gordon Pasha. He had a severe battle with the natives of -Unyoro; it lasted several hours, but he managed to escape and reach -Gordon Pasha's headquarters. In the following August he was sent on an -expedition among the Bari tribe, and, at a place called Labore, he and -all the men accompanying him were killed. He was an efficient officer, -and was greatly liked by those with whom he served. - -[Illustration: WARRIORS OF THE UPPER NILE REGION.] - -"Mr. Stanley was greatly delayed on his return to Usukuma," Fred -continued, "by the inefficiency of Magassa and his habits of -procrastination. He did not assemble the required number of canoes which -Mtesa had promised, and when Stanley sent him for more he returned -without them. His whole course of action was one of duplicity, and -caused a great deal of trouble and delay to the expedition. Stanley was -not sufficiently powerful to force him to obey, and he was too far away -from Mtesa's capital to inform the king of the bad conduct of his -lieutenant. - -"On the way down the coast Mr. Stanley explored the Alexandra Nile for a -short distance. He reported it about five hundred yards wide at its -mouth, and narrowed to a width of one hundred yards about two miles -above. Its current was so strong that the _Lady Alice_ breasted it with -difficulty, and, after an ascent of three miles, the attempt to go -farther was abandoned. In one place a depth of eighty-five feet was -obtained with the sounding-line, and it was evident that the volume of -water discharged by the river is very large. The people residing in the -valley of the Alexandra Nile call it 'the mother of the river at Jinga,' -or the Ripon Falls. - -"At Bumbireh Island the expedition stopped to purchase food, of which -they had run short, but the natives proved to be unfriendly. Bumbireh is -about eleven miles long by two in width, and has a population estimated -at four thousand, scattered in some fifty villages. Here is Mr. -Stanley's account of his experiences at this island. - - "At 9 A.M. we discovered a cove near the southeast end of the long - island, and pulled slowly into it. Immediately the natives rushed - down the slopes, shouting war-cries and uttering fierce - ejaculations. When about fifty yards from the shore I bade the men - cease rowing, but Safeni and Baraka became eloquent, and said, 'It - is almost always the case, master, with savages. They cry out and - threaten and look big, but you will see that all that noise will - cease as soon as they hear us speak. Besides, if we leave here - without food, where shall we obtain it?' - - "The last argument was unanswerable, and though I gave no orders to - resume their oars, four of the men impelled the boat on slowly, - while Safeni and Baraka prepared themselves to explain to the - natives, who were now close within hearing, as they came rushing to - the water's edge. I saw some lift great stones, while others - prepared their bows. - - "We were now about ten yards from the beach, and Safeni and Baraka - spoke, earnestly pointing to their mouths, and by gestures - explaining that their bellies were empty. They smiled with - insinuating faces; uttered the words 'brothers,' 'friends,' 'good - fellows,' most volubly; cunningly interpolated the words Mtesa--the - _kabaka_--Uganda, and Antari, King of Ihangiro, to whom Bumbireh - belongs. Safeni and Baraka's pleasant volubility seemed to have - produced a good effect, for the stones were dropped, the bows were - unstrung, and the lifted spears lowered to assist the steady, - slow-walking pace with which they now advanced. - - [Illustration: RECEPTION AT BUMBIREH ISLAND, VICTORIA NYANZA.] - - "Safeni and Baraka turned to me triumphantly, and asked, 'What did - we say, master?' and then, with engaging frankness, invited the - natives, who were now about two hundred in number, to come closer. - The natives consulted a little while, and several--now smiling - pleasantly themselves--advanced leisurely into the water until they - touched the boat's prow. They stood a few seconds talking sweetly, - when suddenly, with a rush, they ran the boat ashore; and then all - the others, seizing hawser and gunwale, dragged her about twenty - yards over the rocky beach high and dry, leaving us almost - stupefied with astonishment! - - "Then ensued a scene which beggars description. A forest of spears - was levelled; thirty or forty bows were drawn taut; as many barbed - arrows seemed already on the wing; thick, knotty clubs waved above - our heads; two hundred screaming black demons jostled with each - other, and struggled for room to vent their fury, or for an - opportunity to deliver one crushing blow or thrust at us. - - "In the meantime, as soon as the first symptoms of this - manifestation of violence had been observed, I had sprung to my - feet, each hand armed with a loaded self-cocking revolver. But the - apparent hopelessness of inflicting much injury upon such a large - crowd restrained me, and Safeni turned to me, though almost cowed - to dumbness by the loud fury around us, and pleaded with me to be - patient. I complied, seeing that I should get no aid from my crew; - but, while bitterly blaming myself for my imprudence in having - yielded--against my instincts--to placing myself in the power of - such savages, I vowed that, if I escaped this once, my own judgment - should guide my actions for the future. - - "I assumed a resigned air, though I still retained my revolvers. My - crew also bore the first outburst of the tempest of shrieking rage - which assailed them with almost sublime imperturbability. Safeni - crossed his arms with the meekness of a saint. Baraka held his - hands palms outward, asking, with serene benignity, 'What, my - friends, ails you? Do you fear empty hands and smiling people like - us? We are friends; we came, as friends, to buy food, two or three - bananas, a few mouthfuls of grain or potatoes or muhogo (cassava), - and, if you permit us, we shall depart as friends.' - - "Our demeanor had a great effect. The riot and noise seemed to be - subsiding, when some fifty new-comers rekindled the smouldering - fury. Again the forest of spears swayed on the launch, again the - knotty clubs were whirled aloft, again the bows were drawn, and - again the barbed arrows seemed flying. Safeni received a push which - sent him tumbling; little Kirango received a blow on the head with - a spear-staff; Saramba gave a cry as a club descended on his back. - - "I sprang up this time to remonstrate, with the two revolvers in my - left hand. I addressed myself to an elder, who seemed to be - restraining the people from proceeding too far. I showed him beads, - cloth, wire, and invoked the names of Mtesa, and Antari their king. - - "The sight of the heaps of beads and cloth I exposed awakened, - however, the more deliberate passions of selfishness and greed in - each heart. An attempt at massacre, they began to argue, would - certainly entail the loss of some of themselves. 'Guns might be - seized, and handled with terrible effect, even by dying men, and - who knows what those little iron things in the white man's hands - are?' they seemed to be asking themselves. The elder, whatever he - thought, responded with an affectation of indignation, raised his - stick, and to the right and left of him drove back the demoniac - crowd. Other prominent men now assisted this elder, whom we - subsequently discovered to be Shekka, the King of Bumbireh. - - "Shekka then, having thus bestirred himself, beckoned to half a - dozen men, and walked away a few yards behind the mass. Half the - crowd followed the king and his council, while the other half - remained to indulge their tongues on us, and to continually menace - us with either club or spear. - - [Illustration: HUT AND GRANARY ON THE ISLAND.] - - "The issue had surely arrived. There had been just one brief moment - of agony when I reflected how unlovely death appears in such guise - as that in which it then threatened me. What would my people think - as they anxiously waited for the never-returning master! What would - Pocock and Barker say when they heard of the tragedy of Bumbireh! - And my friends in America and Europe! - - "A messenger from the king and the council arrives, and beckons - Safeni. I said to him, 'Safeni, use your wit.' 'Please God, - master,' he replied. - - "Safeni drew nearly all the crowd after him, for curiosity is - strong in the African. I saw him pose himself. A born diplomatist - was Safeni. His hands moved up and down, outward and inward; a - cordial frankness sat naturally on his face; his gestures were - graceful; the man was an orator, pleading for mercy and justice. - - "Safeni returned, his face radiant. 'It is all right, master, there - is no fear. They say we must stop here until to-morrow.' - - "'Will they sell us food?' - - "'Oh, yes, as soon as they settle their shauri.' - - "While Safeni was speaking six men rushed up and seized the oars. - - "Safeni, though hitherto politic, lost temper at this, and - endeavored to prevent them. They raised their clubs to strike him. - I shouted out, 'Let them go, Safeni.' - - "'A loud cheer greeted the seizure of the oars. I became convinced - now that this one little act would lead to others; for man is the - same all over the world. If a man submit once, he must be prepared - to submit again. - - "The 'shauri' proceeded. Another messenger came, demanding five - cloths and five fundo of necklaces. They were delivered. But as it - was now near noon, and they were assured we could not escape, the - savages withdrew to their nearest village to refresh themselves - with wine and food. - - "After the warriors had departed some women came to look at us. We - spoke kindly to them, and in return they gave us the consoling - assurance that we should be killed, but they said that if we could - induce Shekka to make blood-brotherhood, or to eat honey with one - of us, we should be safe. If we failed, there was only flight or - death. We thanked them, but we would wait. - - [Illustration: A WOMAN OF THE ISLAND.] - - "About 3 P.M. we heard a number of drums beaten. Safeni was told - that if the natives collected again he must endeavor to induce - Shekka with gifts to go through the process of blood-brotherhood. - - "A long line of natives in full war costume appeared on the crest - of the terrace, on which the banana grove and village of Kajurri - stood. Their faces were smeared with black and white pigments. - Almost all of them bore the peculiar shields of Usongora. Their - actions were such as the dullest-witted of us recognized as - indicating hostilities. - - "Even Safeni and Baraka were astounded, and their first words were - 'Prepare, master. Truly, this is trouble.' - - "'Never mind me,' I replied, 'I have been ready these three hours. - Are you ready, your guns and revolvers loaded, and your ears open - this time?' - - "'We are,' they all firmly answered. - - "'Don't be afraid; be quite cool. We will try, while they are - collecting together, the women's suggestion. Go frankly and - smilingly, Safeni, up to Shekka, on the top of that hill, and offer - him these three fundo of beads, and ask him to exchange blood with - you.' - - "Safeni proceeded readily on his errand, for there was no danger to - him bodily while we were there within one hundred and fifty yards, - and their full power as yet unprepared. For ten minutes he - conversed with them, while the drums kept beating, and numbers of - men bepainted for war were increasing Shekka's force. Some of them - entertained us by demonstrating with their spears how they fought. - Their gestures were wild, their voices were shrill and fierce, they - were kindling themselves into a fighting fever. - - "Safeni returned. Shekka had refused the pledge of peace. The - natives now mustered over three hundred. - - "Presently fifty bold fellows came rushing down, uttering a shrill - cry. Without hesitation they came straight to the boat, and, - hissing something to us, seized our Kiganda drum. It was such a - small affair, we did not resist; still the manner in which it was - taken completely undeceived us, if any small hope of peace - remained. Loud applause greeted the act of gallantry. - - "Then two men came down towards us, and began to drive some cows - away that were grazing between us and the men on the hill. Safeni - asked of one of them, 'Why do you do that?' - - [Illustration: VILLAGE ENCLOSING CATTLE.] - - "'Because we are going to begin fighting presently, and if you are - men, you may begin to prepare yourselves,' he said, scornfully. - - "'Thanks, my bold friend,' I muttered to myself. 'Those are the - truest words we have heard to-day.' - - "The two men were retiring up the hill. 'Here, Safeni,' I said, - 'take these two fine red cloths in your hand; walk slowly up after - them a little way, and the minute you hear my voice run back; and - you, my boys, this is for life and death, mind; range yourselves on - each side of the boat, lay your hands on it carelessly, but with a - firm grip, and when I give the word, push it with the force of a - hundred men down the hill into the water. Are you all ready, and do - you think you can do it? Otherwise we might as well begin fighting - where we are.' - - 'Yes, Inshallah Master,' they cried out with one voice. - - [Illustration: HEADS OF SPEARS.] - - "'Go, Safeni!' - - "I waited until he had walked fifty yards away, and saw that he - acted precisely as I had instructed him. - - "'Push, my boys; push for your lives!" - - "The crew bent their heads and strained their arms; the boat began - to move, and there was a hissing, grinding noise below me. I seized - my double-barrelled elephant rifle and shouted, 'Safeni! Safeni, - return!' - - "The natives were quick-eyed. They saw the boat moving, and with - one accord they swept down the hill uttering the most fearful - cries. - - "My boat was at the water's edge. 'Shoot her into the lake, my men; - never mind the water;' and, clear of all obstruction, she darted - out upon the lake. - - "Safeni stood for an instant on the water's edge, with the cloths - in his hand. The foremost of a crowd of natives was about twenty - yards from him. He raised his spear and balanced himself. - - "'Spring into the water, man, head first,' I cried. - - "The balanced spear was about to fly, and another man was preparing - his weapon for a deadly cast, when I raised my gun and the bullet - ploughed through him and through the second. The bowmen halted and - drew their bows. I sent two charges of duck-shot into their midst, - and the natives retreated from the beach on which the boat had - lately lain. - - "Having checked the natives, I assisted one of my men into the - boat, and ordered him to lend a hand to the others, while I - reloaded my big guns, keeping my eyes on the natives. There was a - point about one hundred yards in length on the east, which - sheltered the cove. Some of the natives made a rush for this, but - my guns commanded the exposed position, and they were obliged to - retire. - - "The crew seized their rifles, but I told them to leave them alone, - and to tear the bottom-boards out of the boat and use them as - paddles; for there were two hippopotami advancing upon us - open-mouthed, and it seemed as if we were to be crushed in the - water after such a narrow escape from the ferocious people ashore. - I permitted one of the hippos to approach within ten yards, and, - aiming between his eyes, perforated his skull with a three-ounce - ball, and the second received such a round that we were not - molested by him. - - "It was 5 P.M. We had only four bananas in the boat, and we were - twelve hungry men. If we had a strong fair breeze, a day and a - night would suffice to enable us to reach our camp. But if we had - head-winds, the journey might occupy a month. Meanwhile, where - should we apply for food? Fresh water we had in abundance, - sufficient to satisfy the thirst of all the armies of the - world for a century. But food? Whither should we turn for it?" - -[Illustration: CENTRAL AFRICAN GOAT.] - -Fred paused a few moments while his auditors waited in breathless -anxiety for the continuation of the story. - -"At night a storm came on," said Fred, "and the _Alice_ drifted -helplessly, while her occupants, weakened by nearly fifty hours without -food and drenched by the rain that fell in torrents, felt that they were -about to 'die in the Nyanza' as they had been told to do by the cruel -natives of Bumbireh. In the morning the storm abated, and they reached -an uninhabited island which Mr. Stanley appropriately named Refuge -Island. The men gathered bananas, cherries, and other fruits, while -their leader shot some ducks, so that they had an abundant supper, -which, you may be sure, was eagerly devoured. They remained two days at -Refuge Island to rest and gain strength, and also to make oars to -replace those lost at Bumbireh. Then they continued their voyage and -reached their old camp at Kagehyi without further molestation or -suffering. - -"The party was welcomed most joyously by Frank Pocock and the men in -camp, but the news that greeted the explorer was full of sadness. When -he inquired for Fred Barker, young Pocock pointed to a cairn of stones -near the shore, and in a low voice said Barker had died twelve days -before, and was buried under the cairn. Several of the Zanzibaris had -died, including three of the most trustworthy men of the expedition, -while some of the worst spirits in the camp were on the verge of mutiny. -The natives had continued friendly, and the camp was so well supplied -with provisions that those who had preserved their health were in -excellent condition. - -[Illustration: CAIRN ERECTED TO THE MEMORY OF FREDERICK BARKER: - -MAJITA AND URURI MOUNTAINS IN THE DISTANCE, ACROSS SPEKE GULF.] - -"Mr. Stanley and those who accompanied him on the boat expedition were -greatly reduced by their privations and exposure, Stanley weighing only -one hundred and fifteen pounds, or sixty-three pounds less than when he -left Zanzibar. Rest was imperative, and in Stanley's case it was -accompanied by fever which reduced him to a weight of one hundred and -eight pounds in a few days. On the fifth day he had conquered the fever -by liberal doses of quinine, but found himself very weak and pale." - -One of the youths asked what became of Magassa and his fleet of canoes. - -"That was what worried Mr. Stanley," replied Fred, "and during the -delirium of his fever he was constantly asking for the canoes. They -never came, and it was necessary to obtain other boats or make the -journey by land. After much bargaining and diplomacy twenty-one canoes -were purchased from Lukongeh, King of Ukerewé, a large island which -separates Speke Gulf from the waters of the lake. They were in poor -condition, but, by much patching and calking, were made available for -transporting the expedition to Refuge Island, where the boat party -retreated after its encounter with the natives of Bumbireh. - -"Mr. Stanley gives some interesting details concerning the king and -people of Ukerewé. - - "The king, Lukongeh, was a handsome, open-faced, light-colored man - about twenty-seven years old; he is supposed to be endowed with - supernatural power, and seizes every opportunity to heighten this - belief. He is believed to be enabled to create a drought at - pleasure, and to cause the land to be drenched with rain. It was - fortunate that, since his accession to power, rain had been regular - and copious in its season. The king had not been slow to point out - this immense advantage which Ukerewé had gained since he succeeded - his father; he was therefore beloved and feared. - - [Illustration: AT THE LANDING-PLACE OF MSOSSI, KING LUKONGEH's - CAPITAL.] - - "Aware of the value of a reputation as rain-maker, he was ambitious - to add to it that of 'great medicine man,' and he besought me to - impart to him some of the grand secrets of Europe--such as how to - transform men into lions and leopards, to cause the rains to fall - or cease, the winds to blow, and trees to produce fruit. Demands of - this character are commonly made by African chiefs. When I stated - my inability to comply with these requests, the king whispered to - his chiefs: - - "'He will not give me what I ask, because he is afraid that he will - not get the canoes; but you will see when my men return from - Uganda, he will give me all I ask.' - - [Illustration: STOW-HOUSE FOR GRAIN.] - - "Many stories were current about the witchcraft practised by the - people of Ukara Island, proving that those islanders have been at - pains to spread abroad a good repute for themselves, that they are - cunning, and, aware that superstition is a weakness of human - nature, have sought to thrive upon it. Their power--according to - the Wakerew--over the amphibiæ is wonderful. They had crocodiles - which were trained to do anything they were told to do, and their - king had a hippopotamus which came to him each morning to be - milked! - - [Illustration: WAKEREWÉ STOOL.] - - "Coils of brass wire are much coveted by the Wakerewé, for the - adornment of their wives, who wear it in such numerous circlets - round their necks as to give them at a distance an appearance of - wearing ruffs. Wristlets of copper and brass and iron, and anklets - of the same metal, besides armlets of ivory, are the favorite - decorations of the men. - -"Owing to the size of the expedition and the limited capacity of the -canoes, it required two journeys of the flotilla to transport the entire -party, with its baggage, from Kagehyi to Refuge Island. The work was -safely accomplished, friendly terms were made with the natives in the -vicinity; and now," said Fred, as he closed the book, "we will leave the -entire party until we assemble again in the evening." - -[Illustration: WAKEREWÉ DWELLING-HOUSE.] - -[Illustration: FISH-NETS.] - -[Illustration: WAKEREWÉ CANOES.] - -[Illustration: WAKEREWÉ WARRIOR.] - -[Illustration: STRANGE GRANITE ROCKS OF UZUI ISLAND, MIDWAY BETWEEN -USUKUMA AND UKEREWÉ. - -(_From a Photograph by Mr. Stanley._)] - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -DEPARTURE FROM REFUGE ISLAND.--ARRIVAL IN UGANDA.--MTESA AT -WAR.--STANLEY JOINS HIM AT RIPON FALLS.--A NAVAL BATTLE ON AN AFRICAN -LAKE.--THE WAGANDA REPULSED.--CAPTURE OF A WAVUMA CHIEF.--STANLEY SAVES -THE CHIEF'S LIFE.--HOW STANLEY BROUGHT THE WAR TO AN END.--HIS WONDERFUL -MACHINE FOR DESTROYING THE WAVUMA.--RETIREMENT OF THE ARMY.--STANLEY'S -RETURN TO HIS CAMP.--EXPEDITION TO MUTA NZEGE.--HOW IT FAILED.--THE -EXPEDITION MARCHES SOUTHWARD.--IN KING RUMANIKA'S COUNTRY.--ARAB TRADERS -IN AFRICA.--HAMED IBRAHIM.--KAFURRO AND LAKE WINDERMERE.--INTERVIEWS -WITH KING RUMANIKA.--EXPLORING LAKE WINDERMERE.--AN UNHAPPY -NIGHT.--IHEMA ISLAND. - - -When the party assembled in the evening Fred was promptly in his place -and ready for work. By way of testing the memories of his auditors he -asked them where they left Mr. Stanley's expedition at the end of the -afternoon's reading. - -"We left it at Refuge Island," replied one of the youths. "The canoes -had made two journeys each way, between Kagehyi and Refuge Island, to -bring up the men and baggage." - -[Illustration: USUKUMA CANOE.] - -"Quite right," said Fred, "and at Refuge Island they remained for -several days, negotiating for a peaceful passage by the island of -Bumbireh. A search expedition, which was sent by King Mtesa to ascertain -what had become of his friend 'Stamlee,' joined them, and together there -was a sufficient number of canoes to carry the whole party to Uganda. - -"But on arriving in Uganda," Fred continued, "Mr. Stanley found that -Mtesa had gone to war with the Wavuma, who dwell on the farther shore of -the lake, and beyond the Victoria Nile. He had marched to Usoga and -fought a battle with the Wavuma, and was then preparing a naval -expedition on a grand scale. Stanley was inclined to turn back when he -heard this news, as he feared the delay which the war would cause. After -due consideration he decided to go on, as the greater ease with which he -could travel to the Muta Nzege would offset any delay caused by Mtesa's -war. - -[Illustration: ISLAND CALLED ELEPHANT ROCK.] - -"He found Mtesa with his army at Ripon Falls, on the Usoga side of the -river. Warriors, women, camp-followers, and all numbered nearly two -hundred and fifty thousand, and, besides, he had a flotilla of three -hundred and twenty-five canoes, large and small. The enemy was in great -strength, though less numerous. They had a strong position on an island, -and everything promised a severely contested battle, with the chances in -favor of Mtesa. The army remained several days at Ripon Falls after -Stanley's arrival, and then marched to a point of land near Ingira, the -island where the Wavuma had their stronghold. During the delay in camp -the king and his guest were often together, and Stanley embraced the -opportunity to renew his religious instruction of Mtesa. He made an -abstract of the Scriptures, which were translated into Swahili, and thus -the king had all the principal events of the Bible, from the Creation to -the Crucifixion, in a language he could read. Finally the king declared -that he would renounce the faith of Islam, and accept Christianity, as -he believed its principles were the best. - -"'Stamlee,' said Mtesa, as they parted, 'say to the white people when -you write to them, that I am like a man sitting in darkness, or born -blind, and that all I ask is that I may be taught how to see, and I -shall continue a Christian while I live.' - -[Illustration: MTESA'S CAMP INGIRA.] - -"The fleets of Mtesa and the Wavuma people had several encounters, but -without any decisive results. Mr. Stanley thus describes one of these -naval battles: - - "The drums sounded from the water-side, and soon the beautiful - canoes of Uganda appeared in view. The entire war-fleet of two - hundred and thirty vessels rode gracefully on the calm gray waters - of the channel. - - "The line of battle was formed by Chambarango, in command of the - right flank, with fifty canoes; Sambuzi, Mukavya, Chikwata, and - Saruti, all sub-chiefs, were ranged with one hundred canoes, under - the command of Kauta, the imperial steward, to form the centre; the - left flank was in charge of the gallant Mkwenda, who had eighty - canoes. Tori commanded a force of musketeers, and with his four - howitzers was stationed on the causeway, which was by this time two - hundred yards from the shore. - - "In the above manner the fleet of vessels, containing some sixteen - thousand men, moved to the attack upon Ingira. The centre, defended - by the flanks, which were to menace the rear of the Wavuma should - they approach near the causeway, resolutely advanced to within - thirty yards of Ingira, and poured in a most murderous fire among - the slingers of the island, who, imagining that the Waganda meant - to carry the island by storm, boldly stood exposed, resolved to - fight. But they were unable to maintain that courageous behavior - long. Mkwenda then moved up from the left, and attacked with his - musketeers the Wavuma on the right, riddling their canoes, and - making matters specially hot for them in that quarter. - - [Illustration: ONE OF THE GREAT NAVAL BATTLES BETWEEN THE WAGANDA - AND THE WAVUMA, IN THE CHANNEL BETWEEN INGIRA ISLAND AND CAPE - NAKARANGA.] - - "The Wavuma, seeing matters approaching a crisis, and not wishing - to die tamely, manned their canoes, and one hundred and ninety-six - dashed impetuously, as at first, from the rushes of Ingira with - loud, shrill yells, and the Waganda lines moved backward to the - centre of the channel, where they bravely and coolly maintained - their position. As the centre of the Uganda line parted in front of - the causeway and disclosed the hotly advancing enemy, Tori aimed - the howitzers and fired at a group of about twenty canoes, - completely shattering more than half of them, and, reloading one - quickly, he discharged several bolts of iron three inches long - among them with terrible effect. Before this cool bearing of the - Waganda the Wavuma retired to their island again, and we saw - numbers of canoes discharging their dead and wounded, and the - Waganda were summoned to Nakaranga shore to receive the - congratulations of the emperor and the applause of the vast - multitude. Mtesa went down to the water's edge to express his - satisfaction at their behavior. - - [Illustration: SMALL CANOE.] - - "'Go at them again,' said he, 'and show them what fighting is.' And - the line of battle was again formed, and again the Wavuma darted - from the cover of the reeds and water-cane with the swiftness of - hungry sharks, beating the water into foam with their paddles, and - rending the air with their piercing yells. It was one of the most - exciting and animating scenes I ever beheld. The Waganda - distinguished themselves for coolness and method, and the Wavuma, - as on a former occasion, for intrepidity and desperate courage." - -[Illustration: VIEW OF THE COUNTRY NEAR MTESA'S CAMP.] - -"Mtesa did not make any progress in his war upon the Wavuma," said Fred, -"and became very ill-natured in consequence. One day he captured a -Wavuma chief, whom he proposed to burn to death. The man was bound to a -stake, and fagots were piled around him ready to be lighted, when -Stanley interfered. With great difficulty, and only upon the threat of -going away immediately, he succeeded in persuading Mtesa not to carry -out his intention. Mtesa had repeatedly asked Stanley's advice and -assistance. Stanley was anxious to end the war, and continue his -journey, and at the same time he wished to prevent bloodshed. So he -proposed to the king that in return for granting his request to spare -the life of the Wavuma chief he would build something that would strike -terror to the Wavuma and force them to submit. Let us hear his story of -what he did: - - "'You must give me plenty of men to help me, and in three days I - shall be ready,' I said to Mtesa. 'Meantime shout out to the Wavuma - from the causeway that you have something which will be so terrible - that it will finish the war at once.' - - "'Take everybody, do anything you like; I will give you Sekebobo - and all his men.' - - "The next morning Sekebobo brought about two thousand men before my - quarters, and requested to know my will. I told him to despatch one - thousand men to cut long poles one inch thick, three hundred to cut - poles three inches thick and seven feet long, one hundred to cut - straight long trees four inches thick, and one hundred to disbark - all these and make bark rope. Himself and five hundred men I wished - to assist me at the beach. The chief communicated my instructions - and urged them to be speedy, as it was the emperor's command, and - himself accompanied me to the canoe fleet. - - "I selected three of the strongest-built canoes, each seventy feet - long and six and a half feet wide, and, after preparing a space of - ground near the water's edge, had them drawn up parallel with one - another, and four feet apart from each other. With these three - canoes I began to construct a floating platform, laying the tall - trees across the canoes, and lashing them firmly to the thwarts, - and as fast as the seven-foot poles came I had them lashed in an - upright position to the thwarts of the outer canoes, and as fast as - the inch poles arrived I had them twisted in among these uprights, - so that when completed it resembled an oblong stockade, seventy - feet long by twenty-seven feet wide, which the spears of the enemy - could not penetrate. - - [Illustration: THE FLOATING FORTLET MOVING TOWARDS INGIRA.] - - "On the afternoon of the second day the floating fort was finished, - and Mtesa and his chiefs came down to the beach to see it launched - and navigated for a trial trip. The chiefs, when they saw it, began - to say it would sink, and communicated their fears to Mtesa, who - half believed them. But the emperor's women said to him: 'Leave - Stamlee alone; he would not make such a thing if he did not know - that it would float.' - - "On receiving orders to launch it, I selected sixty paddlers, and - one hundred and fifty musketeers of the body-guard to stand by to - embark as soon as it should be afloat, and appointed Tori and one - of my own best men to superintend its navigation, and told them to - close the gate of the fort as soon as they pushed off from the - land. About one thousand men were then set to work to launch it, - and soon it was floating in the water, and when the crew and - garrison, two hundred and fourteen souls, were in it, it was - evident to all that it rode the waves of the lake easily and - safely-- - - "'The invention all admired, and each how he - To be the inventor missed, so easy it seemed - Once found, which yet unfound most would have thought - Impossible'-- - - "and a burst of applause from the army rewarded the inventor. - - "Several long blue Kaniki and white and red cloths were hoisted - above this curious structure, which, when closed up all round, - appeared to move of its own accord in a very mysterious manner, and - to conceal within its silent and impenetrable walls some dread - thing, well calculated to strike terror into the mind of the - ignorant savage. - - "At eight o'clock, on the morning of the 13th of October, the army - was assembled at Nakaranga with unusual display, and it was - proclaimed across the strait from the extremity of the causeway, - that a terrible thing was approaching which would blow them into - atoms if they did not make peace at once, and acknowledge the power - of Mtesa; and I believe that they declared that all the Muzimus and - the charms of Uganda were within, for I heard something said about - Muzimu and Uganda. The old Mvuma chief was also placed in prominent - view, and induced to urge them to accept the terms which Mtesa - offered, viz., pardon to all, provided they went through the form - of submission. After this announcement, which was made with all - gravity, the awful mysterious structure appeared, while the drums - beat a tremendous sound, and the multitude of horns blew a - deafening blast. - - "It was a moment of anxiety to me, for manifold reasons. The fort, - perfectly defensible in itself against the most furious assaults by - men armed with spears, steadily approached the point, then steered - direct for the island of Ingira, until it was within fifty yards. - - "'Speak,' said a stentorian voice, amid a deathly silence within. - 'What will you do? Will you make peace and submit to Mtesa, or - shall we blow up the island? Be quick and answer.' - - "There was a moment's consultation among the awe-stricken Wavuma. - Immediate decision was imperative. The structure was vast, totally - unlike anything that was ever visible on the waters of their sea. - There was no person visible, yet a voice spoke clear and loud. Was - it a spirit, the Wazimu of all Uganda, more propitious to their - enemy's prayers than those of the Wavuma? It might contain some - devilish, awful thing, something similar to the evil spirits which - in their hours of melancholy and gloom their imagination invoked. - There was an audacity and confidence in its movements that was - perfectly appalling. - - "'Speak,' repeated the stern voice; 'we cannot wait longer.' - - "Immediately, to our relief, a man, evidently a chief, answered, - 'Enough; let Mtesa be satisfied. We will collect the tribute - to-day, and will come to Mtesa. Return, O spirit, the war is - ended!' At which the mysterious structure solemnly began its return - back to the cove where it had been constructed, and the quarter of - a million of savage human beings, spectators of the extraordinary - scene, gave a shout that seemed to split the very sky, and Ingira's - bold height repeated the shock of sound back to Nakaranga. - - [Illustration: UGANDA WAR CANOE.] - - "Three hours afterwards, a canoe came from Ingira Island, bearing - fifty men, some of whom were chiefs. They brought with them several - tusks of ivory, which were delivered over to the charge of the - steward. The old Mvuma chief was surrendered to his tribe, and thus - the long war terminated on the evening of the 13th of October, - 1875. - - "Glad shouts from both sides announced all parties equally pleased. - The same afternoon, the canoe fleet of Uganda, which had by this - time been reduced to two hundred and seventy-five in number, was - escorted as far as Jinja by twenty Wavuma canoes, and after it had - departed and rounded Namagongo Point, releasing their late foe from - all fear of treachery, the Wavuma canoes presented us with a - peaceful exhibition of their dexterity, and gave us an opportunity - of viewing them more distinctly than we had previously been able to - do through the smoke of gunpowder." - -[Illustration: WANGWANA HUT IN CAMP.] - -"As soon as peace was declared," said Fred, after a pause, "the king -returned to his capital, and the army was dispersed. Mr. Stanley -accompanied the king, and, after resting a few days, reminded Mtesa of -his promise to give him a powerful escort to take the expedition to the -Muta Nzege, a lake lying to the south of Albert Lake, and about two -hundred miles west of Victoria Lake. Mtesa did as he had agreed, and -sent an escort of about two thousand warriors under command of a -general named Sambuzi. Escorted by several war-canoes, Stanley went to -Dumo, where his camp had been established during the time the leader was -absent with Mtesa in the war against the Wavuma. Frank Pocock had -remained at the camp, and Stanley was greatly pleased to find everything -in order and his men in excellent condition. - -[Illustration: HUT AT JINJA.] - -"The men had built comfortable huts and were abundantly supplied with -food. The natives all around them were friendly in obedience to the -orders they received from the king; altogether the Zanzibaris were -having such a good time that they were in no hurry to leave. - -[Illustration: HEAD OF CENTRAL AFRICAN HARTEBEEST.] - -"On the seventh day after his return to Dumo, Stanley began his march -towards the Katonga River, where he was to meet the Waganda escort under -Sambuzi for the journey to Muta Nzege. He was obliged to halt several -days at a place called Kikoma to wait for Sambuzi; the country was full -of wild animals, and Stanley took advantage of the halt to shoot game to -supply meat for the expedition. In five days he killed fifty-seven -hartebeest, two zebra, and one water-buck. Lions and leopards were said -to be abundant, but he did not get a shot at them. - -[Illustration: THE CAMP OF THE EXPEDITION.] - -"On New Year's day, 1876, the expedition crossed the boundary between -Uganda and Unyoro. The king of the latter country was at war with the -Egyptians who had established themselves on Albert Lake, and it was very -soon evident that he would oppose the invasion of his territory by -Stanley's expedition. Mr. Stanley sent out scouts to ascertain the state -of affairs, and their interviews with the natives showed that the latter -intended to fight. A mission to the king failed to secure permission to -proceed, but during the time required for the mission Stanley had -reached a point only a few miles from the lake. - -"Much of the country on the line of march was rough and picturesque, and -Mr. Stanley names it the Switzerland of Africa. Mount Edwin Arnold is -near the site of one of the camps of the expedition; it is estimated to -be nine thousand feet above the level of the sea. - -[Illustration: MOUNT EDWIN ARNOLD.] - -"The courage of the Waganda disappeared when there was a prospect of -fighting, and in spite of all the arguments which Mr. Stanley advanced -they determined to return to their own country. He reached the shore of -the lake, but finding the king bent upon war, and the Waganda refusing -to remain with him, he was forced to leave without making the desired -exploration. He was bitterly disappointed at the failure of this part of -his expedition, but there was no help for it." - -"Did he go back to King Mtesa's capital," asked one of the listeners, -"or continue his journey another way?" - -[Illustration: MARCHING TOWARDS MUTA NZEGE: MOUNT GORDON-BENNETT IN THE -DISTANCE.] - -"He went to the frontier of Uganda, but not to the capital," replied -Fred. "There he parted with Sambuzi and decided to travel southward to -Lake Tanganika with no other escort than his own men. Mtesa sent to him -the offer of an escort of fifty thousand or one hundred thousand men to -Muta Nzege, but after his experiences with Waganda soldiers he declined -the offer with many thanks, and presents of cloth, beads, and other -valuable things. Then he marched southward into Karagwé, the country of -King Rumanika, where he was hospitably received. Here is his account of -his reception: - -[Illustration: GRASS-ROOFED HUT, UNYORO.] - -[Illustration: NATIVE HUT, KARAGWÉ.] - - "On the 25th of February we entered the Arab depot of Kafurro, in - Karagwé. The place owes its importance to being a settlement of two - or three rich Arab traders, Hamed Ibrahim, Sayid bin Sayf, and - Sayid the Muscati. It is situated within a deep hollow or valley - fully twelve hundred feet below the tops of the surrounding - mountains, and at the spring source of a stream flowing east and - afterwards north to the Alexandra Nile. - - "Hamed Ibrahim is rich in cattle, slaves, and ivory. Assuming his - own figures to be correct, he possesses one hundred and fifty - cattle, bullocks, and milch cows, forty goats, one hundred slaves, - and four hundred and fifty tusks of ivory, the greater part of - which last is reported to be safely housed in the safe-keeping of - his friend the chief of Urangwa in Unyamwezi. - - "Hamed has a spacious and comfortable gable-roofed house. He is a - fine, gentlemanly-looking Arab, of a light complexion, generous and - hospitable to friends, liberal to his slaves, and kind to - everybody. He has lived eighteen years in Africa, twelve of which - have been spent in Karagwé. He knew Suna, the warlike Emperor of - Uganda, and father of Mtesa. He has travelled to Uganda frequently, - and several times made the journey between Unyanyembé and Kafurro. - Having lived so long in Karagwé, he is friendly with Rumanika, who, - like Mtesa, loves to attract strangers to his court. - - [Illustration: VIEW NEAR KAFURRO.] - - "Hamed has endeavored several times to open trade with the powerful - Empress of Ruanda, but has each time failed. Though some of his - slaves succeeded in reaching the imperial court, only one or two - managed to effect their escape from the treachery and - extraordinary guile practised there. Nearly all perished by poison. - - [Illustration: CENTRAL AFRICAN ANTELOPE, KARAGWÉ.] - - "'All these people,' said he, 'about here are as different from the - ordinary Washensi--pagans--as I am different from them. When you go - to see Rumanika, you will see some Wanya-Ruanda, and you may then - judge for yourself. The people of that country are not cowards. - They have taken Kishakka, Muvari, and have lately conquered - Mpororo. The Waganda measured their strength with them, and were - obliged to retreat. The Wanya-Ruanda are a great people, but they - are covetous, malignant, treacherous, and utterly untrustworthy. - They have never yet allowed an Arab to trade in their country, - which proves them to be a bad lot. There is plenty of ivory there, - and during the last eight years Khamis bin Abdullah, Tippu-Tib, - Sayid bin Habib, and I myself have attempted frequently to enter - there, but none of us has ever succeeded. Even Rumanika's people - are not allowed to penetrate far, though he permits everybody to - come into his country, and he is a man of their own blood and their - own race, and speaks with little difference their own language.' - - "Hamed Ibrahim was not opening out very brilliant prospects before - me, nevertheless I resolved to search out in person some known road - to this strange country that I might make a direct course to - Nyangwé. - - "On the third day after arrival, the king having been informed of - my intended visit, Hamed Ibrahim and Sayid bin Sayf accompanied me - on an official visit to Rumanika, King of Karagwé, and a tributary - of Mtesa, Emperor of Uganda. - - "Kafurro, according to aneroid barometer, is 3950 feet above the - ocean. Ascending the steep slope of the mountain west of Kafurro, - we gained an altitude of 5150 feet, and half an hour afterwards - stood upon a ridge 5350 feet above the sea, whence we obtained a - most grand and imposing view. Some six hundred feet below us was a - grassy terrace overlooking the small Windermere Lake, one thousand - feet below, its placid surface rivalling in color the azure of the - cloudless heaven. Across a narrow ridge we looked upon the broad - and papyrus-covered valley of the Alexandra, while many fair blue - lakelets north and south, connected by the winding silver line of - the Alexandra Nile, suggested that here exploring work of a most - interesting character was needed to understand the complete - relations of lake, river, and valley to one another. - - "Beyond the broad valley rose ridge after ridge, separated from - each other by deep parallel basins or valleys, and behind these, - receding into dim and vague outlines, towered loftier ridges. About - sixty miles off, to the northwest, rose a colossal sugar-loaf clump - of enormous altitude, which I was told was the Ufumbiro Mountains. - From their northern base extended Mpororo country and South Ruanda. - - [Illustration: VIEW OF UFUMBIRO MOUNTAINS FROM MOUNT NEAR MTAGATA - HOT SPRINGS.] - - "On the grassy terrace below us was situated Rumanika's village, - fenced round by a strong and circular stockade, to which we now - descended after having enjoyed a noble and inspiriting prospect. - - "Our procession was not long in attracting hundreds of persons, - principally youths, all the latter being perfectly nude. - - "'Who are these?' I inquired of Sheik Hamed. - - "'Some of the youngest are sons of Rumanika, others are young - Wanya-Ruanda,' he replied. - - "The sons of Rumanika, nourished on a milk diet, were in remarkably - good condition. Their unctuous skins shone as though the tissues of - fat beneath were dissolving in the heat, and their rounded bodies - were as taut as a drum-head. Their eyes were large, and beaming and - lustrous with life, yet softened by an extreme gentleness of - expression. The sculptor might have obtained from any of these - royal boys a dark model for another statue to rival the classic - Antinous. - - "As we were followed by the youths, who welcomed us with a graceful - courtesy, the appropriate couplet came to my mind-- - - "Thrice happy race! that, innocent of blood, - From milk innoxious seek their simple food." - - "We were soon ushered into the hut wherein Rumanika sat expectant, - with one of the kindliest, most paternal smiles it would be - possible to conceive. - - [Illustration: RUMANIKA'S TREASURE-HOUSE.] - - "I confess to have been as affected by the first glance at this - venerable and gentle pagan as though I gazed on the serene and - placid face of some Christian patriarch or saint of old, whose - memory the Church still holds in reverence. His face reminded me of - a deep, still well; the tones of his voice were so calm that, - unconsciously, they compelled me to imitate him, while the quick, - nervous gestures and the bold voice of Sheik Hamed, seeming - entirely out of place, jarred upon me. - - "It was no wonder that the peremptory and imperious, vivid-eyed - Mtesa respected and loved this sweet-tempered pagan. Though they - had never met, Mtesa's pages had described him, and with their - powers of mimicry had brought the soft, modulated tones of Rumanika - to his ears as truly as they had borne his amicable messages to - him. - - "Nature, which had endowed Mtesa with a nervous and intense - temperament, had given Rumanika the placid temper, the soft voice, - the mild benignity, and pleasing character of a gentle father. - - "The king appeared to me, clad as he was in red blanket-cloth, when - seated, a man of middle size; but when he afterwards stood up he - rose to the gigantic stature of six feet six inches, or - thereabouts, for the top of my head, as we walked side by side, - only reached near his shoulders. His face was long, and his nose - somewhat Roman in shape; the profile showed a decidedly refined - type. - - "Our interview was very pleasing, and he took excessive interest in - every question I addressed to him. When I spoke he imposed silence - on his friends, and leaned forward with eager attention. If I - wished to know anything about the geography of the country, he - immediately sent for some particular person who was acquainted - with that portion, and inquired searchingly of him as to his - knowledge. He chuckled when he saw me use my note-book, as though - he had some large personal interest in the number of notes I took. - He appeared to be more and more delighted as their bulk increased, - and triumphantly pointed out to the Arabs the immense superiority - of the whites to them. - - [Illustration: A SPEARMAN OF KARAGWÉ.] - - "He expressed himself as only too glad that I should explore his - country. It was a land, he said, that white men ought to know. It - possessed many lakes and rivers, and mountains and hot springs, and - many other things which no other country could boast of. - - "'Which do you think best, Stamlee--Karagwé or Uganda?' - - "'Karagwé is grand; its mountains are high, and its valleys deep. - The Kagera is a grand river, and the lakes are very pretty. There - are more cattle in Karagwé than in Uganda, except Uddu and Koki; - and game is abundant. But Uganda is beautiful and rich; its banana - plantations are forests, and no man need to fear starvation, and - Mtesa is good--and so is Father Rumanika,' I replied, smiling, to - him. - - [Illustration: MOUNTAIN SCENE IN KARAGWÉ.] - - "'Do you hear him, Arabs? Does he not speak well? Yes, Karagwé is - beautiful,' he sighed, contentedly. 'But bring your boat up, and - place it on the Rweru (lake), and you can go up the river as far as - Kishakka, and down to Morongo (the falls), where the water is - thrown against a big rock and leaps over it, and then goes down to - the Nianja of Uganda. Verily, my river is a great one; it is the - mother of the river at Jinja (Ripon Falls).' - - [Illustration: BOAT ON LAKE WINDERMERE.] - - "By the 6th of March Frank had launched the boat from the landing - at Kazinga village, on the waters of the Windermere Lake,[6] or the - Rweru of Rumanika, and the next day Rumanika accompanied me in - state to the water. Half a dozen heavy anklets of bright copper - adorned his legs, bangles of the same metal encircled his wrists, - and a robe of crimson flannel was suspended from his shoulders. His - walking-staff was seven feet in length, and his stride was a yard - long. Drummers and fifers discoursing a wild music, and fifty - spearmen, besides his sons and relatives, Wanya-Ruanda, Waganda, - Wasui, Wanyamwezi, Arabs, and Wangwana, followed us in a mixed - multitude. - - [6] This lake received its name from Captain Speke, because Colonel - Grant, his companion, thought it resembled the Windermere Lake in - England. - - "Four canoes, manned by Wamyambu, were at hand to race with our - boat, while we took our seats on the grassy slopes of Kazinga to - view the scene. I enjoined Frank and the gallant boat's crew to - exert themselves for the honor of us Children of the Ocean, and not - to permit the Children of the Lakes to excel us. - - "A boat and canoe race on the Windermere of Karagwé, with twelve - hundred gentle-mannered natives gazing on! An African international - affair! Rumanika was in his element; every fibre of him tingled - with joy at the prospective fun. His sons, seated around him, - looked up into their father's face, their own reflecting his - delight. The curious natives shared in the general gratification. - - "The boat-race was soon over; it was only for about eight hundred - yards, to Kankorogo Point. There was not much difference in the - speed, but it gave immense satisfaction. The native canoe-men, - standing up with their long paddles, strained themselves with all - their energy, stimulated by the shouts of their countrymen, while - the Wangwana on the shore urged the boat's crew to their utmost - power. - - "The next day we began the circumnavigation of the Windermere. The - extreme length of the lake during the rainy season is about eight - miles, and its extreme breadth two and a half. It lies north and - south, surrounded by grass-covered mountains, which rise from - twelve hundred to fifteen hundred feet above it. There is one - island, called Kankorogo, situated midway between Mount Isossi and - the extreme southern end. The soil of the shores is highly - ferruginous in color, and, except in the vicinity of the villages, - produces only euphorbia, thorny gum, acacia, and aloetic plants. - - "On the 9th we pulled abreast of Kankorogo Island, and, through a - channel from five hundred to eight hundred yards wide, directed our - course to the Kagera, up which we had to contend against a current - of two knots and a half an hour. - - "The breadth of the river varied from fifty to one hundred yards. - The average depth of all the ten soundings we made on this day was - fifty-two feet along the middle; close to the papyrus walls, which - grew like a forest above us, was a depth of nine feet. Sometimes we - caught a view of hippopotamus creeks running up for hundreds of - yards on either side through the papyrus. At Kagayyo, on the left - bank, we landed for a short time to take a view of the scene - around, as, while in the river, we could see nothing except the - papyrus, the tops of the mountain ridges of Karagwé, and the sky. - - "We then learned for the first time the true character of what we - had imagined to be a valley when we gazed upon it from the summit - of the mountain between Kafurro and Rumanika's capital. - - [Illustration: KAGERA SKIFF.] - - "The Ingezi, as the natives called it, embraces the whole space - from the base of the Mountains of Muvari to that of the Karagwé - ridges with the river called Kagera, the Funzo or the papyrus, and - the Rwerus or lakes, of which there are seventeen, inclusive of - Windermere. Its extreme width between the bases of the opposing - mountains is nine miles; the narrowest part is about a mile, while - the entire acreage covered by it from Morongo or the falls in - Iwanda, north, to Uhimba, south, is about three hundred and fifty - square miles. The Funzo or papyrus covers a depth of from nine feet - to fourteen feet of water. Each of the several lakes has a depth of - from twenty to sixty-five feet, and they are all connected, as also - is the river, underneath the papyrus. - - "When about three miles north of Kizinga, at 5 P.M., we drew our - boat close to the papyrus, and prepared for our night's rest, and - the Wanyambu did the same. - - [Illustration: NATIVE WOMAN OF FASHION.] - - "The boat's crew crushed down some of the serest papyrus, and, - cutting off the broom-like tops, spread their mats upon the heap - thus made, flattering themselves that they were going to have a - cosey night of it. Their fires they kindled between three stalks, - which sustained their cooking-pots. It was not a very successful - method, as the stalks had to be replaced frequently; but, finally, - their bananas were done to a turn. At night, however, mosquitoes of - a most voracious species attacked them in dense multitudes, and - nothing but the constant flip-flap of the papyrus tops, mingled - with complaints that they were unable to sleep, were heard for an - hour or two. They then began to feel damp, and finally wet, for - their beds were sinking into the depths below the papyrus, and they - were compelled at last to come into the boat, where they passed a - most miserable night, for the mosquitoes swarmed and attacked them - until morning with all the pertinacity characteristic of these - hungry blood-suckers. - - "The next day we ascended the Kagera about ten miles, and, - returning fourteen miles, entered Ihema Lake, a body of water about - fifty square miles, and camped on Ihema Island, about a mile from - Muvari. - - [Illustration: IHEMA HUT.] - - "The natives of Ihema Island stated to me that Lake Muta Nzege was - only eleven days' journey from the Muvari shores, and that the - Wanya-Ruanda frequently visited them to obtain fish in exchange for - milk and vegetables. They were a genial people, those islanders of - Ihema, but they were subject to two painful diseases, leprosy and - elephantiasis. The water of the Lake Ihema was good and sweet to - the taste, though, like all the waters of the Alexandra Nile, - distinguished for its dull, brown, iron color. - - "We began from the extreme south end of the lake the next day to - coast along the Muvari or Ruanda coast, and near a small village - attempted to land, but the natives snarled like so many spiteful - dogs, and drew their bows, which compelled us--being guests of - Rumanika--to sheer off, and leave them in their ferocious - exclusiveness. - - [Illustration: A NATIVE OF UHHA.] - - "On the 11th we rowed into the Kagera, and descended the river as - far as Ugoi, and on the evening of the 12th returned once more to - our camp on Windermere." - -[Illustration: BOAT ON LAKE IHEMA.] - -Here Fred regarded his watch, and said he would adjourn the reading -until next day, when his place would be taken by Frank. The usual vote -of thanks was passed unanimously, and then the little band of -geographical students separated for the night. - -[Illustration: HUT OF UGANDA. SMALL TEMBÉ OF UGOGO.] - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -STANLEY TELLS ABOUT KING RUMANIKA.--THE KARAGWÉ GEOGRAPHICAL -SOCIETY.--THE KING'S TREASURE-HOUSE.--GOOD-BYE TO HIS -MAJESTY.--HOSTILITY BETWEEN ELEPHANT AND RHINOCEROS.--PLUNDERED IN -USUI.--THE SOURCES OF THE ALEXANDRA NILE.--RETROSPECTION.--QUESTIONS OF -TOPOGRAPHY.--INSOLENCE OF MANKORONGO.--DEATH OF "BULL."--TROUBLES WITH -THE PETTY KINGS.--INTERVIEW WITH THE FAMOUS MIRAMBO.--GENERAL APPEARANCE -OF THE RENOWNED AFRICAN.--AN IMPOSING CEREMONY.--BLOOD-BROTHERHOOD.--HOW -GRANT'S CARAVAN WAS PLUNDERED.--MYONGA'S THREATS.--A COMPROMISE.--AMONG -THE WATUTA.--IN SIGHT OF LAKE TANGANIKA.--ARRIVAL AT UJIJI. - - -During all the forenoon of the following day Frank was busy preparing -his matter for the work of the afternoon. When the party of youths had -assembled Mr. Stanley came among them and asked at what point in the -story of the Dark Continent they stopped on the previous evening. - -"We were in the country of King Rumanika, I believe it is called -Karagwé," said one of the auditors; "and you had just returned from -exploring Lake Windermere." - -[Illustration: HOUSE OF ARAB MERCHANT NEAR RUMANIKA'S VILLAGE.] - -"Ah, yes," replied Mr. Stanley, "he was a charming old man, that -Rumanika, and very fond of strangers. After I had explored the lake he -sent for me, and wanted to have a talk on geographical subjects. Of -course I went to meet him." - -"Did he know anything about geography outside of his own country?" was -the very natural inquiry of Fred. - -"Not much," was the reply; "and what he did know was very hazy. But he -pretended to know a great deal about Africa, and gave me some startling -information, which I gravely put down in my note-book. The sight of that -note-book always seemed to inspire him to tell the wildest stories about -his country, and I presume he thought I would spread them before my -countrymen as the most solemn truths. - -"For example," continued Mr. Stanley, "he said at one of our meetings: - - "'Mkinyaga is at the end of Ruanda, and its lake is Muta Nzege, on - which you can go to Unyoro. There is a race of dwarfs, somewhere - west of Mkinyaga, called the Mpundu, and another called the Batwa, - or Watwa, who are only two feet high. In Uriambwa is a race of - small people with tails. - - "'Uitwa, or Batwa--Watwa--is at the extreme south end of Uzongora. - - "'From Butwa, at the end of a point of land in Ruanda, you can see - Uitwa Usongora. - - "'From Butwa, Mkinyaga is to the left of you about three days' - journey. - - [Illustration: ON THE WAY TO THE MEETING.] - - "'Some of the Waziwa saw a strange people in one of those far-off - lands who had long ears descending to their feet; one ear formed a - mat to sleep on, the other served to cover him from the cold, like - a dressed hide! They tried to coax one of them to come and see me, - but the journey was long, and he died on the way.' - -"Another time he said: - - "'Stamlee, how is it, will you tell me, that all white men have - long noses, and all their dogs have very short noses, while almost - all black men have short noses but their dogs have very long - noses?' - -"He had observed the broad, short nose of my British bull-dog, and -hastily arrived at the conclusion that all white men's dogs were -pug-nosed. - -[Illustration: GROUND-PLAN OF KING'S HOUSE.] - -"Rumanika propounded a great many other questions, which I answered to -the best of my ability, and generally to his satisfaction. I was -somewhat puzzled about his question regarding the noses, but finally -explained that originally the white men and their dogs had noses of the -same length. The men had lengthened theirs by constantly smelling the -good things they had to eat, while the dogs had shortened their noses by -using them to push open the doors of the houses. - -"Another day," continued Mr. Stanley, quoting from his work: - - "Rumanika requested Hamed Ibrahim to exhibit the treasures, - trophies, and curiosities in the king's museum or armory, which - Hamed was most anxious to do, as he had frequently extolled the - rare things there. - - "The armory was a circular hut, resembling externally a dome, - thatched neatly with straw. It was about thirty feet in diameter. - - "The weapons and articles of brass, and copper, and iron, were in - perfect order, and showed that Rumanika did not neglect his - treasures. - - [Illustration: TREASURE-HOUSE, ARMS, AND TREASURES OF RUMANIKA.] - - "There were about sixteen rude brass figures of ducks with copper - wings, ten curious things of the same metal, which were meant to - represent elands, and ten headless cows of copper. Bill-hooks of - iron, of really admirable make, double-bladed spears, several - gigantic blades of exceedingly keen edge, eight inches across and - eighteen inches in length; exquisite spears, some with blades and - staves of linked iron; others with chain-shaped staves, and several - with a cluster of small rigid rings massed at the bottom of the - blade and the end of the staff; others, copper-bladed, had curious - inter-twisted iron rods for the staff. There were also great - fly-flaps set in iron, the handles of which were admirable - specimens of native art; massive cleaver-looking knives, with - polished blades, and a kedge-anchor-shaped article with four hooked - iron prongs, projecting out of a brass body. Some exquisite native - cloths, manufactured of delicate grass, were indeed so fine as to - vie with cotton sheeting, and were colored black and red, in - patterns and stripes. The royal stool was a masterpiece of native - turnery, being carved out of a solid log of cottonwood. Besides - these specimens of native art were drinking-cups, goblets, - trenchers, and milk-dishes of wood, all beautifully clean. The - fireplace was a circular hearth in the centre of the building, very - tastefully constructed. Ranged round the wall along the floor were - other gifts from Arab friends, massive copper trays, with a few - tureen-lids of Britannia-ware, evidently from Birmingham. Nor must - the revolving rifle given to him by Captain Speke be forgotten, for - it had an honored place, and Rumanika loves to look at it, for it - recalls to his memory the figures of his genial white friends, - Speke and Grant. - - "The enormous drums, fifty-two in number, ranged outside, enabled - us, from their very appearance, to guess at the deafening sounds - which celebrate the new moon or deliver the signals for war. - - "My parting with the genial old man was very affecting. He shook my - hands many times, saying each time that he was sorry that my visit - must be so short. He strictly charged his sons to pay me every - attention until I should arrive at Kibogora's, the king of western - Usui, who, he was satisfied, would be glad to see me as a friend of - Rumanika. - - "On the 26th of March the expedition, after its month's rest at - Kafurro, the whole of which period I had spent in exploration of - western Karagwé, resumed its journey, and after a march of five - miles camped at Nakawanga, near the southern base of Kibonga - Mountain. - - "On the 27th I had the good-fortune to shoot three rhinoceroses, - from the bodies of which we obtained ample supplies of meat for our - journey through the wilderness of Uhimba. One of these enormous - brutes possessed a horn two feet long, with a sharp, dagger-like - point below a stunted horn, nine inches in length. He appeared to - have had a tussle with some wild beast, for a hand's-breadth of - hide was torn from his rump. - - "The Wangwana and Wanyambu informed me, with the utmost gravity, - that the elephant maltreats the rhinoceros frequently, because of a - jealousy that the former entertains of his fiery cousin. - - "Should a rhinoceros meet an elephant he must observe the rule of - the road, and walk away, for the latter brooks no rivalry; but the - former is sometimes head-strong, and the elephant then despatches - him with his tusks by forcing him against a tree and goring him, or - by upsetting him, and leisurely crushing him. - - "During the next two days we travelled twenty-seven miles south - through a depression, or a longitudinal valley, parallel to Uhimba - Lake and the course of the Alexandra, with only an intervening - ridge excluding the latter from our view. Tall, truncated - hill-cones rise every now and then, with a singular resemblance to - each other, to the same altitude as the grassy ridges which flank - them. Their summits are flat, but the iron-stone faithfully - indicates by its erosions the element which separated them from the - ridges, and first furrowed the valley. - -"And now," said Mr. Stanley, "having told you about King Rumanika, and -how I left him, I will lapse into silence and let you hear from Frank." - -With this hint, Frank opened the volume before him and read: - -[Illustration: THE EXPEDITION TRAVERSING THE VALLEY.] - - "Uhimba, placed by Rumanika in the charge of his sons, Kakoko, - Kananga, and Ruhinda, is sixty-eight miles south of his capital, - and consists of a few settlements of herdsmen. I was courteously - received by Kakoko, and remained there two days. The next day we - entered western Usui, and camped at Kafurra's. In Usui there was a - famine, and it required thirty-two doti of cloth to purchase four - days' rations. Kibogora, King of Usui, demanded and obtained thirty - doti, one coil of wire, and forty necklaces of beads as tribute; - Kafurra, his principal chief, demanded ten doti and a quantity of - beads; another chief required five doti; the queen required a - supply of cloth to wear; the princes put in a claim; the guides - were loud for their reward. Thus in four days we were compelled to - disburse two bales out of twenty-two--all that were left of the - immense store we had departed with from Zanzibar. Under such - circumstances what prospect of exploration had we? Were we to - continue our journey through Uhha, that land which, in 1871, had - consumed at the rate of two bales of cloth per diem? Twenty days of - such experience in Uhha would reduce us to beggary. Its 'esurient' - Mutwarés and rapacious Mkamas and other extortionate people can - only be quieted with cloth and beads disbursed with a princely - hand. One hundred bales of cloth would only suffice to sustain a - hundred men in Uhha about six weeks. Beyond Uhha lay the - impenetrable countries of Urundi and Ruanda, the inhabitants of - which were hostile to strangers. - - [Illustration: POTTERY IN USUI.] - - "Kibogora and Kafurra were sufficiently explicit and amiably - communicative, for my arrival in their country had been under the - very best auspices, viz., an introduction from the gentle and - beloved Rumanika. - - "I turned away with a sigh from the interesting land, but with a - resolution gradually being intensified, that the third time I - sought a road west, nothing should deter me. - - "On the 7th of April we reluctantly resumed our journey in a - southerly direction, and travelled five miles along a ravine, at - the bottom of which murmured the infant stream Lohugati. On coming - to its source, we ascended a steep slope until we stood upon the - summit of a grassy ridge at the height of five thousand six hundred - feet by aneroid. - - "Not until we had descended about a mile to the valley of Uyagoma, - did I recognize the importance of this ridge as the water-parting - between one of the feeders of Lake Victoria and the source of the - Malagarazi, the principal affluent of Lake Tanganika. - - "Though by striking across Uhha due west, or to the southwest, we - should again have reached the Alexandra Nile and the affluents of - the Alexandra Lake, our future course was destined never to cross - another stream or rivulet that supplied the great river which flows - through the land of Egypt into the Mediterranean Sea. - - "From the 17th of January, 1875, up to the 7th of April, 1876, we - had been engaged in tracing the extreme southern sources of the - Nile, from the marshy plains and cultivated uplands where they are - born, down to the mighty reservoir called the Victoria Nyanza. We - had circumnavigated the entire expanse; penetrated to every bay, - inlet, and creek; become acquainted with almost every variety of - wild human nature--the mild and placable, the ferocious and - impracticably savage, the hospitable and the inhospitable, the - generous-souled as well as the ungenerous; we had viewed their - methods of war, and had witnessed them imbruing their hands in each - other's blood with savage triumph and glee; we had been five times - sufferers by their lust for war and murder, and had lost many men - through their lawlessness and ferocity; we had travelled hundreds - of miles to and fro on foot along the northern coast of the - Victorian Sea, and, finally, had explored with a large force the - strange countries lying between the two lakes Muta Nzege and the - Victoria, and had been permitted to gaze upon the arm of the lake - named by me 'Beatrice Gulf,' and to drink of its sweet waters. We - had then returned from further quest in that direction, unable to - find a peaceful resting-place on the lake shores, and had struck - south from the Katonga lagoon down to the Alexandra Nile, the - principal affluent of the Victoria Lake, which drains nearly all - the waters from the west and southwest. We had made a patient - survey of over one half of its course, and then, owing to want of - the means to feed the rapacity of the churlish tribes which dwell - in the vicinity of the Alexandra Nyanza, and to our reluctance to - force our way against the will of the natives, opposing - unnecessarily our rifles to their spears and arrows, we had been - compelled, on the 7th of April, to bid adieu to the lands which - supply the Nile, and to turn our faces towards the Tanganika. - - "I have endeavored to give a faithful portrayal of nature, animate - and inanimate, in all its strange, peculiar phases, as they were - unfolded to us. I am conscious that I have not penetrated to the - depths; but then, I have not ventured beyond the limits assigned - me, viz., the Exploration of the Southern Sources of the Nile, and - the solution of the problem left unsolved by Speke and Grant--Is - the Victoria Nyanza one lake, or does it consist of five lakes, as - reported by Livingstone, Burton, and others? This problem has been - satisfactorily solved, and Speke has now the full glory of having - discovered the largest inland sea on the continent of Africa, also - its principal affluent, as well as the outlet. I must also give him - credit for having understood the geography of the countries he - travelled through better than any of those who so persistently - assailed his hypothesis, and I here record my admiration of the - geographical genius that, from mere native report, first sketched - with such a masterly hand the bold outlines of the Victoria Nyanza. - Speke's hypothetic sketch made this lake twenty-nine thousand - square miles in extent. My survey of it has reduced it to - twenty-one thousand five hundred square miles. - - "Along the Valley of Uyagoma, in western Usui, stretches east and - west a grass-covered ridge, beautiful in places with rock-strewn - dingles, tapestried with ferns and moss, and bright with vivid - foliage. From two such fair nooks, half-way down either slope, the - northern and the southern, drip in great rich drops the sources of - two impetuous rivers--on the southern the Malagarazi, on the other - the Lohugati. Though nurtured in the same cradle, and issuing - within two thousand yards of one another, the twin streams are - strangers throughout their lives. Through the thick ferns and - foliage the rivulets trickle each down his appointed slope, - murmuring as they gather strength to run their destined course--the - Lohugati to the Victoria Lake, and the Malagarazi to distant - Tanganika. - - [Illustration: A VILLAGE IN WESTERN USUI.] - - "While the latter river is in its infancy, collecting its first - tribute of waters from the rills that meander down from the - mountain folds round the basin of Uyagoma, and is so shallow that - tiny children can paddle through it, the people of Usui call it the - Meruzi. When we begin our journey from Uyagoma, we follow its - broadening course for a couple of hours, through the basin, and by - that time it has become a river _nomine dignum_, and, plunging - across it, we begin to breast the mountains, which, rising in - diagonal lines of ridges from northeast to southwest across Usui, - run in broken series into northern Uhha, and there lose themselves - in a confusion of complicated masses and clumps. - - [Illustration: CAMP OF AN ARAB MERCHANT.] - - "The Meruzi wanders round and through these mountain masses in mazy - curves, tumbles from height to height, from terrace to terrace, - receiving as it goes the alliance of myriads of petty rivulets and - threads of clear water, until, arriving at the grand forest lands - of Unyamwezi, it has assumed the name of Lukoke, and serves as a - boundary between Unyamwezi and Uhha. - - "Meanwhile, we have to cross a series of mountain ridges clothed - with woods; and at a road leading from Kibogora's land to the - territory of the turbulent and vindictive Mankorongo, we meet an - embassy, which demands, in a most insolent tone, that we should - pass by his village. This means, of course, that we must permit - ourselves to be defrauded of two or three bales of cloth, half a - dozen guns, a sack or two of beads, and such other property as he - may choose to exact, for the privilege of lengthening our journey - some forty miles, and a delay of two or three weeks. - - "The insolent demand is therefore not to be entertained, and we - return a decided refusal. They are not satisfied with the answer, - and resort to threats. Threats in the free, uninhabited forest - constitute a _casus belli_. So the chiefs are compelled to depart - without a yard of cloth on the instant, and after their departure - we urge our pace until night, and from dawn next morning to 3 P.M. - we continue the journey with unabated speed, until we find - ourselves in Nyambarri, Usambiro, rejoiced to find that we have - foiled the dangerous king. - - "On the 13th of April we halted to refresh the people. Usambiro, - like all Unyamwezi, produces sufficient grain, sesamum, millet, - Indian corn, and vetches, besides beans and pease, to supply all - caravans and expeditions. I have observed that lands producing - grain are more easy of access than pastoral countries, or those - which only supply milk, bananas, and potatoes to their inhabitants. - - "At Nyambarri we met two Arab caravans fresh from Mankorongo, of - whom they gave fearful accounts, from which I inferred that the - extortionate chief would be by no means pleased when he came to - understand how he had been baffled in his idea of spoliating our - expedition. - - "During the march from Nyambarri to Gambawagao, the chief village - of Usambiro, ancient "Bull," the last of all the canine companions - which left England with me, borne down by weight of years and a - land journey of about fifteen hundred miles, succumbed. With - bull-dog tenacity he persisted in following the receding figures of - the gun-bearers, who were accustomed to precede him in the narrow - way. Though he often staggered and moaned, he made strenuous - efforts to keep up, but at last, lying down in the path, he - plaintively bemoaned the weakness of body that had conquered his - will, and soon after died--his eyes to the last looking _forward_ - along the track he had so bravely tried to follow. - - [Illustration: "BULL." - - (_From a Photograph by Mr Stanley._)] - - "Poor dog! Good and faithful service had he done me! Who more - rejoiced than he to hear the rifle-shot ringing through the deep - woods! Who more loudly applauded success than he with his deep, - mellow bark! What long forest-tracts of tawny plains, and series of - mountain ranges had he not traversed! How he plunged through jungle - and fen, morass and stream! In the sable blackness of the night his - voice warned off marauders and prowling beasts from the sleeping - camp. His growl responded to the hideous jabber of the greedy - hyena, and the snarling leopard did not dismay him. He amazed the - wondering savages with his bold eyes and bearing, and by his - courageous front caused them to retreat before him; and right - bravely did he help us to repel the Wanyaturu from our camp in - Ituru. Farewell, thou glory of thy race! Rest from thy labors in - the silent forest! Thy feet shall no more hurry up the hill or - cross mead and plain; thy form shall rustle no more through the - grasses, or be plunging to explore the brake; thou shalt no longer - dash after me across the savannahs, for thou art gone to the grave, - like the rest of thy companions! - - "The king of Usambiro exchanged gifts with us, and appeared to be a - clever, agreeable young man. His people, though professing to be - Wanyamwezi, are a mixture of Wahha and Wazinja. He has constructed - a strong village, and surrounded it with a fosse four feet deep and - six feet wide, with a stockade and 'marksmen's nests' at intervals - round it. The population of the capital is about two thousand. - - "Boma Kiengo, or Msera, lies five miles south-southeast from the - capital, and its chief, seeing that we had arrived at such a good - understanding with the king, also exerted himself to create a - favorable impression. - - "Musonga lies twelve miles south-southeast of Boma Kiengo, and is - the most northerly village of the country of Urangwa. On the 18th - of April a march of fifteen miles enabled us to reach the capital, - Ndeverva, another large stockaded village, also provided with - 'marksmen's nests,' and surrounded by a fosse. - - "We were making capital marches. The petty kings, though they - exacted a small interchange of gifts, which compelled me to - disburse cloth a little more frequently than was absolutely - necessary, were not insolent, nor so extortionate as to prevent - our intercourse being of the most friendly character. But on the - day we arrived at Urangwa, lo! there came up in haste, while we - were sociably chatting together, a messenger to tell us that the - phantom, the bugbear, the terror whose name silences the children - of Unyamwezi and Usukuma, and makes women's hearts bound with fear, - that Mirambo himself was coming--that he was only two camps, or - about twenty miles, away--that he had an immense army of Ruga-Ruga - (bandits) with him! - - "The consternation at this news, the dismay and excitement, the - discussion and rapid interchange of ideas suggested by terror - throughout the capital, may be conceived. Barricades were prepared, - sharp-shooters' platforms, with thick bulwarks of logs, were - erected. The women hastened to prepare their charms, the Waganda - consulted their spirits, each warrior and elder examined his guns - and loaded them, ramming the powder down the barrels of their - Brummagem muskets with desperately vengeful intentions, while the - king hastened backward and forward with streaming robes of cotton - behind him, animated by an hysterical energy. - - "I had one hundred and seventy-five men under my command, and forty - of the Arabs' people were with me, and we had many boxes of - ammunition. The king recollected these facts, and said, 'You will - stop to fight Mirambo, will you not?' - - "'Not I, my friend; I have no quarrel with Mirambo, and we cannot - join every native to fight his neighbor. If Mirambo attacks the - village while I am here, and will not go away when I ask him, we - will fight, but we cannot stop here to wait for him.' - - "The poor king was very much distressed when we left the next - morning. We despatched our scouts ahead, as we usually did when - traversing troublous countries, and omitted no precaution to guard - against surprise. - - [Illustration: A HUT AND ITS FRAME.] - - "On the 19th we arrived at one of the largest villages or towns in - Unyamwezi, called Serombo or Sorombo. It was two miles and a half - in circumference, and probably contained over a thousand large - and small huts, and a population of about five thousand. - - [Illustration: VIEW IN THE INTERIOR OF AN AFRICAN VILLAGE.] - - "The present king's name is Ndega, a boy of sixteen, the son of - Makaka, who died about two years ago. Too young himself to govern - the large settlement and the country round, two elders, or - Manyapara, act as regents during his minority. - - "We were shown to a peculiar-shaped hut, extremely like an - Abyssinian dwelling. The height of the doorway was seven feet, and - from the floor to the top of the conical roof it was twenty feet. - The walls were of interwoven sticks, plastered over neatly with - brown clay. The king's house was thirty feet high from the ground - to the tip of the cone, and forty feet in diameter within; but the - total diameter, including the circular fence or palisade that - supported the broad eaves and enclosed a gallery which ran round - the house, was fifty-four feet. - - [Illustration: SEROMBO HUTS.] - - "Owing to this peculiar construction a desperate body of one - hundred and fifty men might from the circular gallery sustain a - protracted attack from a vastly superior foe, and probably repel - it. - - "Ndega is a relative of Mirambo by marriage, and he soon quieted - all uneasy minds by announcing that the famous man who was now - advancing upon Serombo had just concluded a peace with the Arabs, - and that therefore no trouble was to be apprehended from his visit, - it being solely a friendly visit to his young relative. - - "Naturally we were all anxious to behold the 'Mars of Africa,' who - since 1871 has made his name feared by both native and foreigner - from Usui to Urori, and from Uvinza to Ugogo, a country embracing - ninety thousand square miles; who, from the village chieftainship - over Uyoweh, has made for himself a name as well known as that of - Mtesa throughout the eastern half of equatorial Africa, a household - word from Nyangwé to Zanzibar, and the theme of many a song of the - bards of Unyamwezi, Ukimbu, Ukonongo, Uzinja, and Uvinza. - - "On the evening of our arrival at Serombo's we heard his Brown - Besses--called by the natives Gumeh-Gumeh--announcing to all that - the man with the dread name lay not far from our vicinity. - - "At dusk the huge drums of Serombo signalled silence for the - town-criers, whose voices, preceded by the sound of iron bells, - were presently heard crying out: - - "'Listen, O men of Serombo. Mirambo, the brother of Ndega, cometh - in the morning. Be ye prepared, therefore, for his young men are - hungry. Send your women to dig potatoes, dig potatoes. Mirambo - cometh. Dig potatoes, potatoes, dig potatoes, to-morrow!' - - [Illustration: WAR-DRUM AND IDOL.] - - "At 10 A.M. the Brown Besses, heavily charged and fired off by - hundreds, loudly heralded Mirambo's approach, and nearly all my - Wangwana followed the inhabitants of Serombo outside to see the - famous chieftain. Great war-drums and the shouts of admiring - thousands proclaimed that he had entered the town, and soon little - Mabruki, the chief of the tent-boys, and Kachéché, the detective, - on whose intelligence I could rely, brought an interesting budget - to me. - - [Illustration: A "RUGA-RUGA," ONE OF MIRAMBO'S PATRIOTS.] - - "Mabruki said: 'We have seen Mirambo. He has arrived. We have - beheld the Ruga-Ruga, and there are many of them, and all are armed - with Gumeh-Gumeh. About a hundred are clothed in crimson cloth and - white shirts, like our Wangwana. Mirambo is not an old man.' - - "Kachéché said: 'Mirambo is not old, he is young: I must be older - than he is. He is a very nice man, well dressed, quite like an - Arab. He wears the turban, fez, and cloth coat of an Arab, and - carries a scimitar. He also wears slippers, and his clothes under - his coat are very white. I should say he has about a thousand and a - half men with him, and they are all armed with muskets or - double-barrelled guns. Mirambo has three young men carrying his - guns for him. Truly, Mirambo is a great man!' - - "The shrill Lu-lu-lu's, prolonged and loud, were still maintained - by the women, who entertained a great respect for the greatest king - in Unyamwezi. - - "Presently Manwa Sera, the chief captain of the Wangwana, came to - my hut, to introduce three young men--Ruga-Ruga (bandits), as we - called them, but must do so no more, lest we give - offence--handsomely dressed in fine red and blue cloth coats, and - snowy white shirts, with ample turbans around their heads. They - were confidential captains of Mirambo's body-guard. - - "'Mirambo sends his salaams to the white man,' said the principal - of them. 'He hopes the white man is friendly to him, and that he - does not share the prejudices of the Arabs, and believe Mirambo a - bad man. If it is agreeable to the white man, will he send words of - peace to Mirambo?' - - "'Tell Mirambo,' I replied, 'that I am eager to see him, and would - be glad to shake hands with so great a man; and as I have made - strong friendship with Mtesa, Rumanika, and all the kings along the - road from Usoga to Unyamwezi, I shall be rejoiced to make strong - friendship with Mirambo also. Tell him I hope he will come and see - me as soon as he can.' - - "The next day Mirambo, having despatched a Ruga-Ruga--no, a - patriot, I should have said--to announce his coming, appeared with - about twenty of his principal men. - - [Illustration: HILLSIDE HOUSE IN MIRAMBO'S COUNTRY.] - - "I shook hands with him with fervor, which drew a smile from him as - he said, 'The white man shakes hands like a strong friend.' - - "His person quite captivated me, for he was a thorough African - _gentleman_ in appearance, very different from my conception of the - terrible bandit who had struck his telling blows at native chiefs - and Arabs with all the rapidity of a Frederick the Great environed - by foes. - - "I entered the following notes in my journal on April 22, 1876: - - "'This day will be memorable to me for the visit of the famous - Mirambo. He was the reverse of all my conceptions of the - redoubtable chieftain, and the man I had styled the "terrible - bandit." - - "'He is a man about five feet eleven inches in height, and about - thirty-five years old, with not an ounce of superfluous flesh about - him. A handsome, regular-featured, mild-voiced, soft-spoken man, - with what one might call a "meek" demeanor, very generous and - open-handed. The character was so different from that which I had - attributed to him that for some time a suspicion clung to my mind - that I was being imposed upon, but Arabs came forward who testified - that this quiet-looking man was indeed Mirambo. I had expected to - see something of the Mtesa type, a man whose exterior would - proclaim his life and rank; but this unpresuming, mild-eyed man, of - inoffensive, meek exterior, whose action was so calm, without a - gesture, presented to the eye nothing of the Napoleonic genius - which he has for five years displayed in the heart of Unyamwezi, to - the injury of Arabs and commerce, and the doubling of the price of - ivory. I said there was _nothing_; but I must except the eyes, - which had the steady, calm gaze of a master. - - [Illustration: UNYAMWEZI CHIEF AND HIS WIFE.] - - "'During the conversation I had with him, he said he preferred boys - or young men to accompany him to war; he never took middle-aged or - old men, as they were sure to be troubled with wives or children, - and did not fight half so well as young fellows who listened to his - words. Said he, "They have sharper eyes, and their young limbs - enable them to move with the ease of serpents or the rapidity of - zebras, and a few words will give them the hearts of lions. In all - my wars with the Arabs, it was an army of youths that gave me - victory, boys without beards. Fifteen of my young men died one day - because I said I must have a certain red cloth that was thrown down - as a challenge. No, no; give me youths for war in the open field, - and men for the stockaded village." - - "'"What was the cause of your war, Mirambo, with the Arabs?" I - asked. - - "'"There was a good deal of cause. The Arabs got the big head" - (proud), "and there was no talking with them. Mkasiwa of Unyanyembé - lost his head too, and thought I was his vassal, whereas I was not. - My father was king of Uyoweh, and I was his son. What right had - Mkasiwa or the Arabs to say what I ought to do? But the war is now - over--the Arabs know what I can do, and Mkasiwa knows it. We will - not fight any more, but we will see who can do the best trade, and - who is the smartest man. Any Arab or white man who would like to - pass through my country is welcome. I will give him meat and drink, - and a house, and no man shall hurt him."' - - "Mirambo retired, and in the evening I returned his visit with ten - of the principal Wangwana. I found him in a bell-tent twenty feet - high, and twenty-five feet in diameter, with his chiefs around him. - - "Manwa Sera was requested to seal our friendship by performing the - ceremony of blood brotherhood between Mirambo and myself. Having - caused us to sit fronting each other on a straw carpet, he made an - incision in each of our right legs, from which he extracted blood, - and, interchanging it, he exclaimed aloud: - - "'If either of you break this brotherhood now established between - you, may the lion devour him, the serpent poison him, bitterness be - in his food, his friends desert him, his gun burst in his hands and - wound him, and everything that is bad do wrong to him until death.' - - "My new brother then gave me fifteen cloths to be distributed among - my chiefs, while he would accept only three from me. But, not - desirous of appearing illiberal, I presented him with a revolver - and two hundred rounds of ammunition, and some small curiosities - from England. Still ambitious to excel me in liberality, he charged - five of his young men to proceed to Urambo, and to select three - milch-cows with their calves, and three bullocks, to be driven to - Ubagwé to meet me. He also gave me three guides to take me along - the frontier of the predatory Watuta. - - [Illustration: SHIELD AND DRUM.] - - "On the morning of the 23d he accompanied me outside Serombo, where - we parted on the very best terms with each other. An Arab in his - company, named Sayid bin Mohammed, also presented me with a bar of - Castile soap, a bag of pepper, and some saffron. A fine riding-ass, - purchased from Sayid, was named Mirambo by me, because the - Wangwana, who were also captivated by Mirambo's agreeable manners, - insisted on it. - - "We halted on the 23d at Mayangira, seven miles and a half from - Serombo, and on the 24th, after a protracted march of eleven miles - south-southeast over flooded plains, arrived at Ukombeh. - - "Through similar flooded plains, with the water hip-deep in most - places, and after crossing an important stream flowing - west-southwest towards the Malagarazi, we arrived at Myonga's - village, the capital of southern Masumbwa. - - [Illustration: COLOR-PARTY OF AN ENGLISH EXPEDITION IN AFRICA.] - - "This Myonga is the same valorous chief who robbed Colonel Grant as - he was hurrying with an undisciplined caravan after Speke. (See - Speke's Journal, page 159, for the following graphic letter: - - "'IN THE JUNGLES, NEAR MYONGA'S, _16th September, 1861_. - - "'MY DEAR SPEKE,--The caravan was attacked, plundered, and the men - driven to the winds, while marching this morning into Myonga's - country. - - "'Awaking at cock-crow, I roused the camp, all anxious to rejoin - you; and while the loads were being packed, my attention was drawn - to an angry discussion between the head men and seven or eight - armed fellows sent by Sultan Myonga to insist on my putting up for - the day in his village. They were summarily told that as _you_ had - already made him a present, he need not expect a visit from _me_. - Adhering, I doubt not, to their master's instructions, they - officiously constituted themselves our guides till we chose to - strike off their path, when, quickly heading our party, they - stopped the way, planted their spears, and _dared_ our advance! - - "'This menace made us firmer in our determination, and we swept - past the spears. After we had marched unmolested for some seven - miles, a loud yelping from the woods excited our attention, and a - sudden rush was made upon us by, say, two hundred men, who came - down _seemingly_ in great glee. In an instant, at the caravan's - centre, they fastened upon the poor porters. The struggle was - short; and with the threat of an arrow or spear at their breasts, - men were robbed of their cloths and ornaments, loads were yielded - and run away with before resistance could be organized; only three - men of a hundred stood by me; the others, whose only _thought_ was - their lives, fled into the woods, where I went shouting for them. - One man, little Rahan, stood with cocked gun, defending his load - against five savages with uplifted spears. No one else could be - seen. Two or three were reported killed, some were wounded. Beads, - boxes, cloths, etc., lay strewed about the woods. In fact, I felt - wrecked. My attempt to go and demand redress from the sultan was - resisted, and, in utter despair, I seated myself among a mass of - rascals jeering round me, and insolent after the success of the - day. Several were dressed in the very cloths, etc., they had stolen - from my men. - - "'In the afternoon about fifteen men and loads were brought me, - with a message from the sultan, that the attack had been a - _mistake_ of his subjects--that one man had had a hand cut off for - it, and that all the property would be restored! - - "'Yours sincerely, - "'J. A. GRANT.') - - "Age had not lessened the conceit of Myonga, increased his modesty, - or moderated his cupidity. He asserted the rights and privileges of - his royalty with a presumptuous voice and a stern brow. He demanded - tribute! Twenty-five cloths. A gun and five fundo of beads! The - Arabs, my friends, were requested to do the same! - - "'Impossible, Myonga!' I replied, yet struck with admiration at the - unparalleled audacity of the man. - - "'People have been obliged to pay what I ask,' the old man said, - with a cunning twinkle in his eyes. - - "'Perhaps,' I answered; 'but whether they have or not, I cannot pay - you so much, and, what is more, I will not. As a sign that we pass - through your country, I give you one cloth, and the Arabs shall - only give you one cloth.' - - "Myonga blustered and stormed, begged and threatened, and some of - his young men appeared to be getting vicious, when, rising, I - informed him that to talk loudly was to act like a scolding woman, - and that, when his elder should arrive at our camp, he would - receive two cloths, one from me and one from the Arabs, as - acknowledgment of his right to the country. - - "The drum of Myonga's village at once beat to arms, but the affair - went no further, and the elder received the reasonable and just - tribute of two cloths, with a gentle hint that it would be - dangerous to intercept the expedition on the road when on the - march, as the guns were loaded. - - [Illustration: MOUNTAINS ALONG THE ROUTE OF THE EXPEDITION.] - - "Phunze, chief of Mkumbiro, a village ten miles south by east from - Myonga, and the chief of Ureweh, fourteen miles and a half from - Phunze's, were equally bold in their demands, but they did not - receive an inch of cloth; but neither of these three chiefs were - half so extortionate as Ungomirwa, king of Ubagwé, a large town of - three thousand people. - - "We met at Ubagwé an Arab trader _en route_ to Uganda, and he gave - us a dismal tale of robbery and extortion practised on him by - Ungomirwa. He had been compelled to pay one hundred and fifty - cloths, five kegs, or fifty pounds, of gunpowder, five guns - double-barrelled, and thirty-five pounds of beads, the whole being - of the value of $625, or £125, for the privilege of passing - unmolested through the district of Ubagwé. - - "When the chief came to see me, I said to him, - - "'Why is it, my friend, that your name goes about the country as - being that of a bad man? How is it that this poor Arab has had to - pay so much for going through Ubagwé? Is Ubagwé Unyamwezi, that - Ungomirwa demands so much from the Arabs? The Arab brings cloths, - powder, guns into Unyamwezi. If you rob him of his property, I must - send letters to stop people coming here, then Ungomirwa will become - poor, and have neither powder, guns, nor cloths to wear. What has - Ungomirwa to say to his friend?' - - "'Ungomirwa,' replied he, 'does no more than Ureweh, Phunze, - Myonga, Ndega, Urangwa, and Mankorongo--he takes what he can. If - the white man thinks it is wrong, and will be my friend, I will - return it all to the Arab.' - - "'Ungomirwa is good. Nay, do not return it all; retain one gun, - five cloths, two fundo of beads, and one keg of powder; that will - be plenty, and nothing but right. I have many Wanyamwezi with me, - whom I have made good men. I have two from Ubagwé, and one man who - was born at Phunze's. Let Ungomirwa call the Wanyamwezi, and ask - them how the white man treats Wanyamwezi, and let him try to make - them run away, and see what they will say. They will tell him that - all white men are very good to those who are good.' - - "Ungomirwa called the Wanyamwezi to him, and asked them why they - followed the white man to wander about the world, leaving their - brothers and sisters. The question elicited the following reply: - - "'The white people know everything. They are better than the black - people in heart. We have abundance to eat, plenty to wear, and - silver for ourselves. All we give to the white man is our strength. - We carry his goods for him, and he bestows a father's care on his - black children. Let Ungomirwa make friends with the white man, and - do as he says, and it will be good for the land of Unyamwezi.' - - "To whatever cause it was owing, Ungomirwa returned the Arab nearly - all his property, and presented me with three bullocks; and during - all the time that I was his guest at Ubagwé, he exhibited great - friendship for me, and boasted of me to several Watuta visitors who - came to see him during that time; indeed, I can hardly remember a - more agreeable stay at any village in Africa than that which I made - in Ubagwé. - - "Unyamwezi is troubled with a vast number of petty kings, whose - paltriness and poverty have so augmented their pride that each of - them employs more threats, and makes more demands, than Mtesa, - emperor of Uganda. - - "The adage that 'Small things make base men proud' holds true in - Africa as in other parts of the world. Sayid bin Sayf, one of the - Arabs at Kafurro, begged me, as I valued my property and peace of - mind, not to march through Unyamwezi to Ujiji, but to travel - through Uhha. I attribute these words of Sayid's to a desire on his - part to hear of my being mulcted by kings Khanza, Iwanda, and Kiti - in the same proportion that he was. He confessed that he had paid - to Kiti sixty cloths, to Iwanda sixty cloths, and to king Khanza - one hundred and thirty-eight, which amounted in value to $516, and - this grieved the gentle merchant's soul greatly. - - [Illustration: FASHIONABLE HAIR-DRESSING.] - - "On my former journey in search of Livingstone, I tested - sufficiently the capacity of the chiefs of Uhha to absorb property, - and I vowed then to give them a wide berth for all future time. - Sayid's relation of his experiences, confirmed by Hamed Ibrahim, - and my own reverses, indicated but too well the custom in vogue - among the Wahha. So far, between Kibogora's capital and Ubagwé, I - had only disbursed thirty cloths as gifts to nine kings of - Unyamwezi, without greater annoyance than the trouble of having to - reduce their demands by negotiation. - - "On the 4th of May, having received the milch-cows, calves, and - bullocks from my new brother Mirambo, we marched in a - south-southwest direction, skirting the territory of the Watuta, to - Ruwinga, a village occupying a patch of cleared land, and ruled by - a small chief who is a tributary to his dreaded neighbors. - - "The next day, in good order, we marched across a portion of the - territory of the Watuta. No precaution was omitted to insure our - being warned in time of the presence of the enemy, nor did we make - any delay on the road, as a knowledge of their tactics of attack - assured us that this was our only chance of avoiding a conflict - with them. Msené, after a journey of twenty miles, was reached - about 2 P.M., and the king, Mulagwa, received us with open arms. - - "The population of the three villages under Mulagwa probably - numbers about thirty-five hundred. The king of the Watuta - frequently visits Mulagwa's district; but his strongly-fenced - villages and large number of muskets have been sufficient to check - the intentions of the robbers, though atrocious acts are often - committed upon the unwary. - - "Ten miles southwest of Msené is Kawangira, a district about ten - miles square, governed by the chief Nyambu, a rival of Mulagwa. - Relics of the ruthlessness and devastating attacks of the Watuta - are visible between the two districts, and the once populous land - is rapidly resuming its original appearance of a tenantless waste. - - [Illustration: ONE OF THE WATUTA.] - - "The next village, Nganda, ten miles southwest from Kawangira, was - reached on the 9th of May. From this place, as far as Usenda - (distant fourteen miles south-southwest), extended a plain, - inundated with from two to five feet of water from the flooded - Gombé, which rises about forty miles southeast of Unyanyembé. Where - the Gombé meets with the Malagarazi, there is a spacious plain, - which during each rainy season is converted into a lake. - - "We journeyed to the important village of Usagusi on the 12th, in a - south-southwest direction. Like Serombo, Myonga's, Urangwa, Ubagwé, - and Msené, it is strongly stockaded, and the chief, conscious that - the safety of his principal village depends upon the care he - bestows upon its defences, exacts heavy fines upon those of his - people who manifest any reluctance to repair the stockade; and this - vigilant prudence has hitherto baffled the wolflike marauders of - Ugomba. - - "Twenty-five miles in a westerly direction through a depopulated - land brought us to Zegi, in Uvinza, where we found a large caravan, - under an Arab in the employ of Sayid bin Habib. Among these natives - of Zanzibar was a man who had accompanied Cameron and Tippu-Tib to - Utatera. Like other Munchausens of his race, he informed me upon - oath that he had seen a ship upon a lake west of Utatera, manned by - black Wazungu, or black Europeans! - - [Illustration: BOW, SPEARS, HATCHETS, AND ARROW-HEADS.] - - "Before reaching Zegi, we saw Sivué Lake, a body of water fed by - the Sagala River; it is about seven miles wide by fourteen miles - long. Through a broad bed, choked by reeds and grass and tropical - plants, it empties into the Malagarazi River near Kiala. - - "Zegi swarmed with a reckless number of lawless men, and was not a - comfortable place to dwell in. The conduct of these men was another - curious illustration of how 'small things make base men proud.' - Here were a number of youths suffering under that strange disease - peculiar to vain youth in all lands, which Mirambo had called 'big - head.' The manner in which they strutted about, their big looks and - bold staring, their enormous feathered head-dresses and martial - stride, were most offensive. Having adopted, from bravado, the name - of Ruga-Ruga, they were compelled in honor to imitate the bandits' - custom of smoking banghi (wild hemp), and my memory fails to remind - me of any similar experience to the wild screaming and stormy - sneezing, accompanied day and night by the monotonous droning of - the one-string guitar (another accomplishment with the complete - bandit) and the hiccoughing, snorting, and vocal extravagances - which we had to bear in the village of Zegi. - - [Illustration: IDOLS SHELTERED FROM THE RAIN.] - - "For the next few days there were no incidents of importance, our - march being pressed with as little delay as possible. At noon of - the 27th of May the bright waters of the Tanganika broke upon the - view, and compelled me to linger admiringly for a while, as I did - on the day I first beheld them. By 3 P.M. we were in Ujiji. Muini - Kheri, Mohammed bin Gharib, Sultan bin Kassim, and Khamis the - Baluch greeted me kindly. Mohammed bin Sali was dead. Nothing was - changed much, except the ever-changing mud tembés of the Arabs. The - square or plaza where I met David Livingstone in November, 1871, is - now occupied by large tembés. The house where he and I lived has - long ago been burned down, and in its place there remain only a few - embers and a hideous void. The lake expands with the same grand - beauty before the eyes as we stand in the market-place. The - opposite mountains of Goma have the same blue-black color, for they - are everlasting, and the Liuché River continues its course as brown - as ever just east and south of Ujiji. The surf is still as - restless, and the sun as bright; the sky retains its glorious - azure, and the palms all their beauty; but the grand old hero, - whose presence once filled Ujiji with such absorbing interest for - me, was gone!" - -[Illustration: ARAB HOUSE NEAR UJIJI.] - -"And here at Ujiji," said Frank, "we will pause for the present. We have -read the first volume of Mr. Stanley's very interesting work, and this -evening we'll begin reading the second. The story it contains is even -more exciting than that which you have just heard; it carries us among -new people and into new lands, and introduces us to a part of the -continent unknown to Europeans until Mr. Stanley made his remarkable -journey through it." - -A motion to adjourn was carried unanimously, and very soon the party was -dispersed over the steamer's deck. Some of them looked around for Mr. -Stanley, and were disappointed to hear that he had not been visible -about the deck or saloon for several hours. - -[Illustration: WHISTLE, PILLOW, AND HATCHET.] - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -MR. STANLEY TAKES THE CHAIR.--DESCRIPTION OF UJIJI.--THE ARAB AND OTHER -INHABITANTS.--MARKET SCENES.--LOCAL CURRENCY.--THE WAJIJI.--LAKE -TANGANIKA.--STANLEY'S VOYAGE ON THE LAKE.--RISING OF THE WATERS.--THE -LEGEND OF THE WELL.--HOW THE LAKE WAS FORMED.--DEPARTURE OF THE -EXPEDITION.--SCENERY OF THE COAST.--MOUNTAINS WHERE THE SPIRITS -DWELL.--SEEKING THE OUTLET OF THE LAKE.--THE LUKUGA RIVER.--EXPERIMENTS -TO FIND A CURRENT.--CURIOUS HEAD-DRESSES.--RETURN TO UJIJI.--LENGTH AND -EXTENT OF LAKE TANGANIKA. - - -When the party assembled in the evening, Frank was not in the place -where the others expected to find him; he was among the auditors, and -his former seat was occupied by Mr. Stanley. The latter said he had been -sleeping during most of the afternoon, and would atone for his indolence -by telling the story of a portion of his work after the arrival of the -expedition at Ujiji. - -[Illustration: HEAD OF UGUHHA WOMAN.] - -"As you have assembled to hear the story of the Dark Continent," said -Mr. Stanley, as soon as all were seated, "you shall not be disappointed. -You can imagine that I am reading from the book, and I will keep it in -my hands to assist your imaginations." - -Without further preliminary the distinguished explorer plunged at once -into the midst of his subject and carried his audience, as on the -enchanted carpet of the "Arabian Nights," straight to the shores of Lake -Tanganika. - -[Illustration: UJIJI, LOOKING NORTH FROM THE MARKET-PLACE, VIEWED FROM -THE ROOF OF OUR TEMBÉ AT UJIJI. - -(_From a Photograph by Mr. Stanley._)] - - "The best view of Ujiji is to be obtained from the flat roof of one - of the Arab tembés or houses. Here is a photograph presenting a - view north from my tembé, which fronted the market-place. It - embraces the square and conical huts of the Wangwana, Wanyamwezi, - and Arab slaves, the Guinea palms from the golden-colored nuts of - which the Wajiji obtain the palm-oil, the banana and plantain - groves, with here and there a graceful papaw-tree rising among - them, and, beyond, the dark-green woods which line the shore and - are preserved for shade by the fishermen. - - "South of the market-place are the tembés of the Arabs, solid, - spacious, flat-roofed structures, built of clay, with broad, cool - verandas fronting the public roads. Palms and papaws, pomegranates - and plantains, raise graceful branch and frond above them, in - pleasing contrast to the gray-brown walls, enclosures, and houses. - - "The port of Ujiji is divided into two districts--Ugoy, occupied by - the Arabs, and Kawelé, inhabited by the Wangwana, slaves, and - natives. The market-place is in Ugoy, in an open space which has - been lately contracted to about twelve hundred square yards. In - 1871 it was nearly three thousand square yards. On the beach before - the market-place are drawn up the huge Arab canoes, which, - purchased in Goma on the western shore, have had their gunwales - raised up with heavy teak planking. The largest canoe, belonging to - Sheik Abdullah bin Sulieman, is forty-eight feet long, nine feet in - the beam, and five feet high, with a poop for the nakhuda - (captain), and a small forecastle. - - [Illustration: ARAB DHOW AT UJIJI.] - - "Sheik Abdullah, by assuming the air of an opulent ship-owner, has - offended the vanity of the governor, Muini Kheri, who owns nine - canoes. Abdullah christened his 'big ship' by some very proud name; - the governor nicknamed it the _Lazy_. The Arabs and Wajiji, by the - way, all give names to their canoes. - - "The hum and bustle of the market-place, filled with a - miscellaneous concourse of representatives from many tribes, woke - me up at early dawn. Curious to see the first market-place we had - come to since leaving Kagehyi, I dressed myself and sauntered among - the buyers and sellers and idlers. - - "Here we behold all the wealth of the Tanganika shores. The Wajiji, - who are sharp, clever traders, having observed that the Wangwana - purchased their supplies of sweet potatoes, yams, sugar-cane, - ground-nuts, oil-nuts, palm-oil and palm-wine, butter, and pombé, - to retail them at enormous profits to their countrymen, have raised - their prices on some things a hundred per cent. over what they were - when I was in Ujiji last. This has caused the Wangwana and slaves - to groan in spirit, for the Arabs are unable to dole out to them - rations in proportion to the prices now demanded. The governor, - supplied by the Mutwaré of the lake district of Ujiji, will not - interfere, though frequently implored to do so, and, consequently, - there are frequent fights, when the Wangwana rush on the natives - with clubs, in much the same manner as the apprentices of London - used to rush to the rescue or succor of one of their bands. - - [Illustration: A NATIVE OF RUA, WHO WAS A VISITOR AT UJIJI.] - - "Except the Wajiji, who have become rich in cloths, the rural - natives retain the primitive dress worn by the Wazinja and other - tribes, a dressed goat-skin covering the loins, and hanging down to - within six inches above the knees, with long depending tags of the - same material. All these tribes are related to each other, and - their language shows only slight differences in dialect. Moreover, - many of those inhabiting the countries contiguous to Unyamwezi and - Uganda have lost those special characteristics which distinguish - the pure unmixed stock from the less favored and less refined types - of Africans. - - "Uhha daily sends to the market of Ujiji its mtama, grain (millet), - sesamum, beans, fowls, goats, and broad-tailed sheep, butter, and - sometimes oxen; Urundi, its goats, sheep, oxen, butter, palm-oil - and palm-nuts, fowls, bananas, and plantains; Uzigé--now and then - only--its oxen and palm-oil; Uvira, its iron, in wire of all sizes, - bracelets, and anklets; Ubwari, its cassava or manioc, dried, and - enormous quantities of grain, Dogara or whitebait, and dried fish; - Uvinza, its salt; Uguha, its goats and sheep, and grain, especially - Indian corn; rural Wajiji bring their buttermilk, ground-nuts, - sweet potatoes, tomatoes, bananas and plantains, yams, beans, - vetches, garden herbs, melons, cucumbers, sugar-cane, palm-wine, - palm-nuts, palm-oil, goats, sheep, bullocks, eggs, fowls, and - earthenware; the lake-coast Wajiji bring their slaves, whitebait, - fresh fish, ivory, baskets, nets, spears, bows and arrows; the - Wangwana and Arab slaves bring fuel, ivory, wild fruit, eggs, rice, - sugar-cane, and honey from the Ukaranga forest. - - [Illustration: DRESS AND TATTOOING OF A NATIVE OF UGUHHA.] - - "The currency employed consists of cloths, blue 'Kaniki,' white - sheeting 'Merikani' from Massachusetts mills, striped or barred - prints, or checks, blue or red, from Manchester, Muscat, or Cutch, - and beads, principally 'Sofi,' which are like black-and-white - clay-pipe stems broken into pieces half an inch long. One piece is - called a _Masaro_, and is the lowest piece of currency that will - purchase anything. The Sofi beads are strung in strings of twenty - Masaro, which is then called a _Kheté_, and is sufficient to - purchase rations for two days for a slave, but suffices the freeman - or Mgwana but one day. The red beads, called Sami-sami, the - Mutanda, small blue, brown, and white, will also readily be - bartered in the market for provisions, but a discount will be - charged on them, as the established and universal currency with all - classes of natives attending the market is the Sofi. - - "The prices at the market of Ujiji in 1876 were as follows: - - Sheeting cloths - of four yards long. - - Ivory per lb. 1 - 1 goat 2 - 1 sheep 1-1/2 - 12 fowls 1-1/2 - 1 bullock 10 - 60 lbs. of grain--Mtama 1 - 90 lbs. of grain--Indian corn 1 - 1/2-gal. potful of honey in the comb 1 - 1 slave boy between 10 and 13 years old 16 - 1 slave girl between 10 and 13 years old 50 to 80 - 1 slave woman between 18 and 30 years old 80 to 130 - 1 slave boy between 13 and 18 years old 16 to 50 - 1 slave man between 18 and 50 years old 10 to 50 - - "The country of Ujiji extends between the Liuché River, along the - Tanganika, north to the Mshala River, which gives it a length of - forty-five miles. The former river separates it from Ukaranga on - the south, while the latter river acts as a boundary between it and - Urundi. As Ujiji is said to border upon Uguru, a district of Uhha, - it may be said to have a breadth of twenty miles. Thus the area of - Ujiji is not above nine hundred square miles. The Mtemi, or king, - is called Mgassa, who entertains a superstitious fear of the lake. - His residence is in a valley among the mountains bordering upon - Uguru, and he believes that in the hour he looks upon the lake he - dies. - - "I should estimate the population of the country to be very fairly - given at forty to the square mile, which will make it thirty-six - thousand souls. The Liuché valley is comparatively populous, and - the port of Ujiji--consisting of Ugoy and Kawelé districts--has - alone a population of three thousand. Kigoma and Kasimbu are other - districts patronized by Arabs and Wangwana. - - "The Wajiji are a brave tribe, and of very independent spirit, but - not quarrelsome. When the moderate fee demanded by the Mutwaré of - Ugoy, Kawelé, and Kasimbu is paid, the stranger has the liberty of - settling in any part of the district; and, as an excellent - understanding exists between the Mutwaré and the Arab governor, - Muini Kheri, there is no fear of ill-usage. The Mgwana or the Mjiji - applying to either of them is certain of receiving fair justice, - and graver cases are submitted to an international commission of - Arabs and Wajiji elders, because it is perfectly understood by both - parties that many moneyed interests would be injured if open - hostilities were commenced. - - "The Wajiji are the most expert canoe-men of all the tribes around - the Tanganika. They have visited every country, and seem to know - each headland, creek, bay, and river. Sometimes they meet with - rough treatment, but they are as a rule so clever, wide-awake, - prudent, commercially politic, and superior in tact, that only - downright treachery can entrap them to death. They have so many - friends also that they soon become informed of danger, and - dangerous places are tabooed. - - [Illustration: CHARMS WORN BY THE WAJIJI.] - - "The governor of the Arab colony of Ujiji, having been an old - friend, was, as may be supposed, courteous and hospitable to me, - and Mohammed bin Gharib, who was so good to Livingstone between - Marungu and Ujiji, as far as Manyema, did his best to show me - friendly attention. Such luxuries as sweetmeats, wheaten bread, - rice, and milk were supplied so freely by Muini Kheri and Sheik - Mohammed that both Frank and myself began to increase rapidly in - weight. - - "Judging from their rotundity of body, it may fairly be said that - both the friends enjoy life. The governor is of vast girth, and - Mohammed is nearly as large in the waist. The preceding governor, - Mohammed bin Sali, was also of ample circumference, from which I - conclude that the climate of Ujiji agrees with the Arab - constitution. It certainly did not suit mine while I was with - Livingstone, for I was punished with remittent and intermittent - fever of such severe type and virulence that in three months I was - reduced in weight to ninety-eight pounds. - - [Illustration: A RIVER FERRY-BOAT.] - - "Muini Kheri's whole wealth consists of about one hundred and - twenty slaves, eighty guns, eighty frasilah of ivory, two tembés, - or houses, a wheat and rice field, nine canoes with oars and sails, - forty head of cattle, twenty goats, thirty bales of cloth, and - twenty sacks of beads, three hundred and fifty pounds of brass - wire, and two hundred pounds of iron wire, all of which, appraised - in the Ujiji market, might perhaps realize $18,000. His friend - Mohammed is probably worth $3000 only! Sultan bin Kassim may - estimate the value of his property at $10,000; Abdullah bin - Suliman, the owner of the _Great Eastern_ of Lake Tanganika, at - $15,000. Other Arabs of Ujiji may be rated at from $100 to $3000. - - "Sheik Mohammed bin Gharib is the owner of the finest house. It is - about one hundred feet long by twenty-five feet in width and - fourteen feet in height. A broad veranda, ten feet wide and forty - feet long, runs along a portion of the front, and affords ample - space for the accommodation of his visitors on the luxurious - carpets. The building is constructed of sun-dried brick plastered - over neatly with clay. The great door is a credit to his carpenter, - and his latticed windows are a marvel to the primitive native - trader from Uhha or Uvinza. The courtyard behind the house contains - the huts of the slaves, kitchens, and cow-house. - - [Illustration: HEADS OF NATIVES.] - - "There is a good deal of jealousy between the Arabs of Ujiji, which - sometimes breaks out into bloodshed. When Sayid bin Habib enters - Ujiji trouble is not far off. The son of Habib has a large number - of slaves, and there are some fiery souls among them, who resent - the least disparagement of their master. A bitter reproach is soon - followed by a vengeful blow, and then the retainers and the chiefs - of the Montagues and Capulets issue forth with clubs, spears, and - guns, and Ujiji is all in an uproar, not to be quieted until the - respective friends of the two rivals carry them bodily away to - their houses. On Arabs, Wangwana, and slaves alike I saw the scars - of feuds. - - [Illustration: THE WAZARAMO TRIBE.] - - "Life in Ujiji begins soon after dawn, and, except on moonlight - nights, no one is abroad after sunset. With the Arabs--to whom - years are as days to Europeans--it is a languid existence, mostly - spent in gossip, the interchange of dignified visits, ceremonies of - prayer, an hour or two of barter, and small household affairs. - - "There were no letters for either Frank or myself after our - seventeen months' travels around and through the lake regions. From - Kagehyi, on Lake Victoria, I had despatched messages to Sayid bin - Salim, governor of Unyanyembé, praying him to send all letters - addressed to me to Muini Kheri, governor of Ujiji, promising him a - noble reward. Not that I was sure that I should pass by Ujiji, but - I knew that, if I arrived at Nyangwé, I should be able to send a - force of twenty men to Muini Kheri for my letters. Though Sayid - bin Salim had over twelve months' time to comply with my moderate - request, not a scrap or word of news or greeting refreshed us after - the long blank interval! Both of us, having eagerly looked forward - with certainty to receiving a bagful of letters, were therefore - much disappointed. - - "As I was about to circumnavigate the Tanganika with my boat, and - would probably be absent two or three months, I thought there might - still be a chance of obtaining them before setting out westward, by - despatching messengers to Unyanyembé. Announcing my intentions to - the governor, I obtained a promise that he would collect other men, - as he and several Arabs at Ujiji were also anxious to communicate - with their friends. Manwa Sera therefore selected five of the most - trustworthy men, the Arabs also selected five of their confidential - slaves, and the ten men started for Unyanyembé on the 3d of June. - - "My five trustworthy men arrived at Unyanyembé within fifteen days, - but from some cause they never returned to the expedition. We - halted at Ujiji for seventy days after their departure, and when we - turned our faces towards Nyangwé, we had given up all hopes of - hearing from civilization. - - "Before departing on the voyage of circumnavigation of Lake - Tanganika, many affairs had to be provided for, such as the - well-being of the expedition during my absence, distribution of - sufficient rations, provisioning for the cruise, the engagement of - guides, etc. - - "The two guides I obtained for the lake were Para, who had - accompanied Cameron in March and April, 1874, and Ruango, who - accompanied Livingstone and myself in December, 1871, to the north - end of Lake Tanganika. - - "The most interesting point connected with this lake was its - outlet. Before starting from Zanzibar, I had heard that Cameron had - discovered the outlet to Lake Tanganika in the Lukuga River, which - ran through Uguha to the west, and was therefore an affluent of - Livingstone's great river. - - "I made many inquiries among the Arabs and natives, but could learn - nothing about an outlet of the lake. The guide who accompanied - Cameron declared that no such outlet had been found while he was - with that officer, and, furthermore, all the streams he knew of - flowed into and not from Tanganika. All this testimony inspired me - with the resolution to explore the phenomenon thoroughly, and to - examine the entire coast minutely. At the same time, a suspicion - that there was no present outlet to the Tanganika had crept into my - mind, when I observed that three palm-trees, which had stood in the - market-place of Ujiji in November, 1871, were now about one hundred - feet in the lake, and that the sand beach over which Livingstone - and I took our morning walks was over two hundred feet in the lake. - - "I asked of Muini Kheri and Sheik Mohammed if my impressions were - not correct about the palm-trees, and they both replied readily in - the affirmative. Muini Kheri said also, as corroborative of the - increase of the Tanganika, that thirty years ago the Arabs were - able to ford the channel between Bangwé Island and the mainland; - that they then cultivated rice-fields three miles farther west than - the present beach; that every year the Tanganika encroaches upon - their shores and fields; and that they are compelled to move every - five years farther inland. In my photograph of Ujiji, an inlet may - be seen on a site which was dry land, occupied by fishing-nets and - pasture-ground, in 1871. - - [Illustration: RAWLINSON MOUNTAINS, LAKE TANGANIKA.] - - "The Wajiji lake-traders and fishermen have an interesting legend - respecting the origin of the Tanganika. Ruango, the veteran guide, - who showed Livingstone and myself the Rusizi River in 1871, and - whose version is confirmed by Para, the other guide, related it as - follows: - - "'Years and years ago, where you see this great lake, was a wide - plain, inhabited by many tribes and nations, who owned large herds - of cattle and flocks of goats, just as you see Uhha to-day. - - "'On this plain there was a very large town, fenced round with - poles strong and high. As was the custom in those days, the people - of the town surrounded their houses with tall hedges of cane, - enclosing courts, where their cattle and goats were herded at night - from the wild beasts and from thieves. In one of these enclosures - lived a man and his wife, who possessed a deep well, from which - water bubbled up and supplied a beautiful little stream, at which - the cattle of their neighbors slaked their thirst. - - "'Strange to say, this well contained countless fish, which - supplied both the man and his wife with an abundant supply for - their wants; but as their possession of these treasures depended - upon the secrecy which they preserved respecting them, no one - outside their family circle knew anything of them. A tradition was - handed down for ages, through the family, from father to son, that - on the day they showed the well to strangers they would be ruined - and destroyed. - - "'One day, while the husband was absent, a stranger called at the - house and talked so pleasantly that the wife forgot all about the - tradition, and showed him the well. The man had never seen such - things in his life, for there were no rivers in the neighborhood - except that which was made by this fountain. His delight was very - great, and he sat for some time watching the fish leaping and - chasing each other, showing their white bellies and beautiful - bright sides, and coming up to the surface and diving swiftly down - to the bottom. He had never enjoyed such pleasure; but when one of - the boldest of the fish came near to where he was sitting he - suddenly put forth his hand to catch it. Ah, that was the end of - all!--for the Muzimu, the spirit, was angry. And the world cracked - asunder, the plain sank down and down and down--the bottom cannot - now be reached by our longest lines--and the fountain overflowed - and filled the great gap that was made by the earthquake, and now - what do you see? The Tanganika! All the people of that great plain - perished, and all the houses and fields and gardens, the herds of - cattle and flocks of goats and sheep, were swallowed in the - waters.' - - [Illustration: HEAD-DRESS AND HATCHET.] - - "I made many attempts to discover whether the Wajiji knew why the - lake was called Tanganika. A rational definition I could not obtain - until one day, while translating some English words into their - language, I came to the word 'plain,' for which I obtained _nika_ - as being the term in Kijiji. As Africans are accustomed to - describe large bodies of water as being like plains, 'it spreads - out like a plain,' I think that a satisfactory signification of the - term has finally been obtained, in 'the plain-like lake.' - - [Illustration: BROTHER ROCKS.] - - "Westward from Ujiji the lake spreads to a distance of about - thirty-five miles, where it is bounded by the lofty mountain range - of Goma, and it is when looking northwest that one comprehends, as - he follows that vague and indistinct mountain line, ever paling as - it recedes, the full magnificence of this inland sea. The low - island of Bangwé on the eastern side terminates the bay of Ujiji, - which rounds with a crescent curve from the market-place towards - it. - - "The saucy English-built boat which had made the acquaintance of - all the bays and inlets of the Victoria Nyanza, and been borne on - the shoulders of sturdy men across the plains and through the - ravines of Unyoro, is about to explore the mountain barriers which - enfold Lake Tanganika, for the discovery of some gap which lets - out, or is supposed to let out, the surplus water of rivers which, - from a dim and remote period, have been pouring into it from all - sides. - - "She has a consort now, a lumbering, heavy, but stanch mate, a - canoe cut out from an enormous teak-tree which once grew in some - wooded gorge in the Goma Mountains. The canoe is called the - _Meofu_, and is the property of Muini Kheri, Governor of Ujiji, who - has kindly lent it to me. As he is my friend, he says he will not - charge me anything for the loan. But the governor and I know each - other pretty well, and I know that when I return from the voyage I - shall have to make him a present. In Oriental and African lands, - remuneration, hire, compensation, guerdon, and present are terms - nearly related to one another. - - "The boat and her consort are ready on the 11th of June, 1876. The - boat's crew have been most carefully selected. They are all young, - agile, faithful creatures. Their names and ages are as follows: - Uledi, the coxswain, 25 years; Saywa, his cousin, 17; Shumari, his - brother, 18; Murabo, 20; Mpwapwa, 22; Marzouk, 23; Akida, 20; - Mambu, 20; Wadi Baraka, 24; Zaidi Rufiji, 27; Matiko, 19. Two - supernumeraries are the boy gun-bearers, Billali and Mabruki, 17 - and 15 years respectively. After eighteen months' experience with - them it has been decided by all that these are the elect of the - expedition for boat-work, though they are by no means the champions - of the march. But as they have only light loads, there has never - been reason to complain of them. - - "There is much handshaking, many cries of 'Take care of - yourselves,' and then both boat and canoe hoist sail, turning their - heads along the coast to the south. - - "We followed along this coast to the southern extremity of the - lake, examining every river with the greatest care, in the full - determination of finding the outlet if any existed. Then we - followed the western coast in the same way, examining the rivers - and studying the picturesque shores, which were bounded in many - places by lofty hills or mountains. Many of these hills are - supposed to be the dwelling-places of spirits who have control over - the lake in various ways. - - [Illustration: THE EXTREME SOUTHERN REACH OF LAKE TANGANIKA.] - - "That part of the western coast which extends from Mbeté or - Mombeté, to the south, as far as the Rufuvu River, is sacred ground - in the lore of the ancients of Urungu. Each crag and grove, each - awful mountain brow and echoing gorge, has its solemn associations - of spirits. Vague and indescribable beings, engendered by fear and - intense superstition, govern the scene. Any accident that may - befall, any untoward event or tragedy that may occur, before the - sanctuaries of these unreal powers, is carefully treasured in the - memories of the people with increased awe and dread of the Spirits - of the Rocks. - - "Such associations cling to the strange tabular mounts or natural - towers, called Mtombwa, of which a sketch is annexed. The height of - these is about twelve hundred feet above the lake. They once - formed parts of the plateau of Urungu, though now separated from it - by the same agency which created the fathomless gulf of the - Tanganika. - - [Illustration: MTOMBWA.] - - "Within a distance of two miles are three separate mounts, which - bear a resemblance to one another. The first is called Mtombwa, the - next Kateye, the third Kapembwa. Their three spirits are also - closely akin to one another, for they all rule the wave and the - wind, and dwell on summits. Kateye is, I believe, the son of - Kapembwa, the Jupiter, and Mtombwa, the Juno, of Tanganika - tradition. - - "As we row past, close to their base, we look up to admire the - cliffy heights rising in terraces one above another; each - terrace-ledge is marked by a thin line of scrubby bush. Beyond - Kateye, the gray front of the paternal Kapembwa looms up with an - extraordinary height and massive grandeur. - - "The peaks of Kungwé are probably from two thousand five hundred to - three thousand feet above the lake. They are not only interesting - from their singular appearance, but also as being a refuge for the - last remaining families of the aborigines of Kawendi. On the - topmost and most inaccessible heights dwells the remnant of the - once powerful nation which in old times--so tradition - relates--overran Uhha and Uvinza, and were a terror to the - Wakalaganza. They cultivate the slopes of their strongholds, which - amply repay them for their labor. Fuel is found in the gorges - between the peaks, and means of defence are at hand in the huge - rocks which they have piled up ready to repel the daring intruder. - Their elders retain the traditions of the race whence they sprang; - and in their charge are the Lares and Penates of old Kawendi--the - Muzimu. In the home of the eagles they find a precarious existence, - as a seed to reproduce another nation, or as a short respite before - complete extermination. - - [Illustration: KUNGWÉ PEAKS. - - (_From a sketch near the entrance to the Luwulungu torrent bed._)] - - "The best view of this interesting clump of mountain heights is to - be had off the mouth of the torrent Luwulungu. - - "Everywhere we went we could see that the lake was rising. In - places where I had camped with Livingstone in 1871 there were now - several feet of water, and the guides repeatedly called my - attention to low islands and beaches that were now submerged. One - of the most interesting points we visited was Lukuga Creek, where - Cameron thought he discovered the outlet of the lake. We reached it - on July 16th, and made a careful survey. - - "The mouth of the Lukuga, which was about two thousand five hundred - yards wide, narrowed after a mile to eight hundred yards, and after - another mile to four or five hundred yards. Upon rounding the point - of land on which Mkampemba stands, and where there is a - considerable tract under tillage, I observed that the water changed - its color to a reddish brown, owing to the ferruginous conglomerate - of which the low bluffs on either side are composed. This was also - a proof to me that there was no outflowing river here. Clear water - outflowing from the Tanganika, only two miles from the lake, ought - never to be so deeply discolored. - - "Wherever there were indentations in the bluffs that banked it in, - or a dip in the low, grass-covered _débris_ beneath, a growth of - mateté, or water-cane, and papyrus filled up these bits of still - water, but mid-channel was clear, and maintained a breadth of open - white water ranging from ninety to four hundred and fifty yards. - - [Illustration: THE "HIGH PLACES" OF THE SPIRIT MTOMBWA: VIEW OF - MTOMBWA URUNGU.] - - "Within an hour we arrived at the extremity of the open water, - which had gradually been narrowed in width, by the increasing - abundance of papyrus, from two hundred and fifty yards to forty - yards. We ceased rowing, and gently glided up to the barrier of - papyrus, which had now completely closed up the creek from bank - to bank, like a luxuriant field of tall Indian corn. We sounded at - the base of these reeds along a breadth of forty yards, and - obtained from seven to eleven feet of water! With a portable level - I attempted to ascertain a current; the level indicated none! Into - a little pool, completely sheltered by the broadside of the boat, - we threw a chip or two, and some sticks. In five minutes the chips - had moved towards the reeds about a foot! We then crushed our way - through about twenty yards of the papyrus, and came to impassable - mud-banks, black as pitch, and seething with animal life. Returning - to the boat, I asked four men to stand close together, and, - mounting their shoulders with an oar for support, I endeavored, - with a glass, to obtain a general view. I saw a broad belt, some - two hundred and fifty or three hundred yards wide, of a - papyrus-grown depression, lying east and west between - gently-sloping banks, thinly covered with scrubby acacia. Here and - there were pools of open water, and beyond were a few trees - growing, as it seemed to me, right in the bed. I caused some of my - men to attempt to cross from one bank to the other, but the muddy - ooze was not sufficiently firm to bear the weight of a man. - - [Illustration: MOUNT MURUMBI, NEAR LUKUGA CREEK.] - - "I then cut a disk of wood a foot in diameter, drove a nail in, and - folded cotton under its head. I then rove a cord five feet in - length through this, suspending to one end an earthenware pot, with - which I tried an experiment. Along the hedge of papyrus I measured - one thousand feet with a tape-line, both ends of the track marked - by a broad ribbon of sheeting tied to a papyrus reed. Then, - proceeding to the eastern or lake end of the track, I dropped the - earthenware pot, which, after filling, sank, and drew the wooden - disk level with the water. I noted the chronometer instantly, - while the boat was rowed away from the scene. The wind from the - lake blew strong at the time. - - "The board floated from lakeward towards the papyrus eight hundred - and twenty-two feet in one hour and forty seconds. - - "In the afternoon, wind calm and water tranquil, the disk floated - in the opposite direction, or towards the lake, one hundred and - fifty-nine feet in nineteen minutes and thirty seconds, which is at - the rate of about six hundred feet in the hour. - - "This was of itself conclusive proof that there was no current at - this date (July 16, 1876). Still I was curious to see the river - flowing out. The next day, therefore, accompanied by the chief and - fifteen men of the expedition, we started overland along the banks - of this rush and mud choked depression for three or four miles. The - trend of the several streams we passed was from northwest to - southeast--that is, towards the lake. At Elwani village we came to - the road from Monyi's, which is used by people proceeding to - Unguvwa, Luwelezi, or Marungu, on the other side of the Lukuga. Two - men from the village accompanied us to the Lukuga ford. When we - reached the foot of the hill we first came to the dry bed of the - Kibamba. In the rainy season this stream drains the eastern slopes - of the Kiyanja ridge with a southeast trend. The grass-stalks, - still lying down from the force of the water, lay with their tops - pointing lakeward. - - "From the dry mud-bed of the Kibamba to the cane-grass-choked bed - of Lukuga was but a step. Daring the wet season the Kibamba - evidently overflowed broadly, and made its way among the mateté of - the Lukuga. - - "We tramped on along a path leading over prostrate reeds and cane, - and came at length to where the ground began to be moist. The reeds - on either side of it rose to the height of ten or twelve feet, - their tops interlacing, and the stalks, therefore, forming the - sides of a narrow tunnel. The path sank here and there into - ditchlike hollows filled with cool water from nine inches to three - feet deep, with transverse dykes of mud raised above it at - intervals. - - "Finally, after proceeding some two hundred yards, we came to the - centre of this reed-covered depression--called by the natives - "Mitwanzi"--and here the chief, trampling a wider space among the - reeds, pointed out in triumph water indisputably flowing westward! - The water felt cold, but it was only 68° Fahr., or 7° cooler than - the Lukuga. - - "I am of the opinion, after taking all things into consideration, - that Kahangwa Cape was, at a remote period, connected with Kungwé - Cape on the east coast--that the Lukuga was the affluent of the - lake as it stood then, that the lake was at that period at a much - higher altitude than it is at present, that the northern half of - the lake is of a later formation, and that, owing to the subsidence - of that portion and the collapsing of the barrier or the Kahangwa - Cape and Kungwé Cape ridge, the waters south emptied into that of - the deep gulf north, and left the channel of the Lukuga to be - employed as the bed of the affluents Kibamba and Lumba, or the - eastern slope of the Kiyanja ridge, to feed the lake. But now that - the extension of the profound bed--created by some great - earthquake, which fractured and disparted the plateau of Uhha, - Urundi, Ubembé, Goma, etc.--is on the eve of being filled up, the - ancient affluent is about to resume its old duties of conveying the - surplus waters of the Tanganika down into the valley of the - Livingstone, and thence, along its majestic winding course, to the - Atlantic Ocean. - - "At present there are only a few inches of mud-banks and a frail - barrier of papyrus and reeds to interpose between the waters of the - lake and its destiny, which it is now, year by year, steadily - approaching. When the Tanganika has risen three feet higher there - will be no surf at the mouth of the Lukuga, no sill of sand, no - oozing mud-banks, no rush-covered old river-course, but the - accumulated waters of over a hundred rivers will sweep through the - ancient gap with the force of a cataclysm, bearing away on its - flood all the deposits of organic _débris_ at present in the Lukuga - Creek down the steep incline to swell the tribute due to the mighty - Livingstone. - - "On the 21st of July we sailed from the mouth of the future outlet - Lukuga to the Arab crossing-place near Kasengé Island. - - "The Waguha, along whose country we had voyaged for some days, are - an unusually ceremonious people. They are the first specimens of - those nations among whom we are destined to travel in our - exploration of the western regions. - - [Illustration: UBUJWÉ HEAD DRESS.] - - [Illustration: UGUHA HEAD-DRESS.] - - "The art of the coiffeur is better known here than in any portion - of Africa east of Lake Tanganika. The 'waterfall' and 'back-hair' - styles are superb, and the constructions are fastened with carved - wooden or iron pins. Full dress includes a semicircle of finely - plaited hair over the forehead painted red, ears well ochred, the - rest of the hair drawn up taut at the back of the head, overlaid - and secured by a cross-shaped flat board, or with a skeleton-crown - of iron; the head is then covered with a neatly tasselled and - plaited grass-cloth, like a lady's breakfast-cap, to protect it - from dust. In order to protect such an elaborate construction from - being disordered, they carry a small head-rest of wood stuck in the - girdle. - - [Illustration: VILLAGE SCENE--DWELLINGS AND GRAIN-HOUSES.] - - "Their mode of salutation is as follows: - - "A man appears before a party seated; he bends, takes up a handful - of earth or sand with his right hand, and throws a little into his - left--the left hand rubs the sand or earth over the right elbow and - the right side of the stomach, while the right hand performs the - same operation for the left parts of the body, the mouth meanwhile - uttering rapidly words of salutation. To his inferiors, however, - the new-comer slaps his hand several times, and after each slap - lightly taps the region of his heart. - - [Illustration: A WOMAN OF UGUHA.] - - [Illustration: UHYEYA HEAD-DRESS.] - - "On the 28th of July we skirted the low land which lies at the foot - of the western mountains, and by noon had arrived at the little - cove in Masansi, near the Rubumba, or the Luvumba, River, at which - Livingstone and I terminated our exploration of the northern shores - of Lake Tanganika in 1871. I had thus circumnavigated Lake - Tanganika from Ujiji up the eastern coast, along the northern head, - and down the western coast as far as Rubumba River in 1871; and in - June-July, 1876, had sailed south from Ujiji along the eastern - coast to the extreme south end of the lake, round each inlet of the - south, and up the western coast to Panza Point, in Ubwari, round - the shores of Burton Gulf, and to Rubumba River. The north end of - the lake was located by Livingstone in south latitude 3° 18'; the - extreme south end I discovered to be in south latitude 8° 47', - which gives it a length of three hundred and twenty-nine - geographical miles. Its breadth varies from ten to forty-five - miles, averaging about twenty-eight miles, and its superficial area - covers a space of nine thousand two hundred and forty square miles. - - [Illustration: SPIRIT ISLAND, LAKE TANGANIKA.] - - "In mid-lake, I sounded, using a three-and-a-half-pound - sounding-lead with one thousand two hundred and eighty feet of - cord, and found no bottom. I devoted an hour to this work, and - tried a second time a mile nearer the Urundi coast, with the same - results--no bottom. The strain at such a great depth on the - whip-cord was enormous, but we met with no accident. - - "On the 31st we arrived at Ujiji, after an absence of fifty-one - days, during which time we had sailed without disaster or illness a - distance of over eight hundred and ten miles. The entire coast-line - of the Tanganika is about nine hundred and thirty miles. - - [Illustration: SKETCH NEAR UJIJI.] - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -STANLEY CONTINUES THE READING.--BAD NEWS AT UJIJI.--SMALL-POX AND -ITS RAVAGES.--DESERTIONS BY WHOLESALE.--DEPARTURE OF THE -EXPEDITION.--CROSSING LAKE TANGANIKA.--TRAVELLERS' TROUBLES.--TERRIFYING -RUMORS.--PEOPLE WEST OF THE LAKE.--SINGULAR -HEAD-DRESSES.--CANNIBALISM.--DESCRIPTION OF AN AFRICAN -VILLAGE.--APPEARANCE OF THE INHABITANTS.--IN MANYEMA.--STORY ABOUT -LIVINGSTONE.--MANYEMA HOUSES.--DONKEYS AS CURIOSITIES.--KITETÉ AND HIS -BEARD.--THE LUAMA AND THE LUALABA.--ON THE BANKS OF THE LIVINGSTONE. - - -Mr. Stanley was heartily applauded as he paused at the end of what we -have recorded in the previous chapter. Under the stimulus of the -applause, and with a reassuring glance at his watch, he continued the -story of his march through the Dark Continent, occasionally reading from -the book, but for the greater portion of the time holding the volume -closed in his hands. - - "The sky was of a stainless blue, and the slumbering lake - faithfully reflected its exquisite tint, for not a breath of wind - was astir to vex its surface. With groves of palms and the - evergreen fig-trees on either hand, and before us a fringe of tall - cane-grass along the shores, all juicy with verdure, the square - tembés of Ugoy and the conical cotes of Kawelé, embowered by banana - and plantain, we emerged into the bay of Ujiji from the channel of - Bangwé. - - "The cheery view of the port lent strength to our arms. An - animating boat-song was struck up, the sounds of which, carried far - on the shore, announced that a proud, joyous crew was returning - homeward. - - "Long-horned cattle are being driven to the water to drink; asses - are galloping about, braying furiously; goats and sheep and dogs - are wandering in the market-place--many familiar scenes recur to us - as we press forward to the shore. - - "Our Wangwana hurry to the beach to welcome us. The usual - congratulations follow--hand-shakings, smiles, and glad - expressions. Frank, however, is pale and sickly; a muffler is round - his neck, and he wears a greatcoat. He looks very different from - the strong, hearty man to whom I gave the charge of the camp during - my absence. In a few words he informs me of his sufferings from the - fever of Ujiji. - - [Illustration: IN COUNCIL: THE COURTYARD OF OUR TEMBÉ AT UJIJI. - - (_From a Photograph by Mr. Stanley._)] - - "'I am so glad you have come, sir. I was beginning to feel very - depressed. I have been down several times with severe attacks of - the horrible fever. Yesterday is the first time I got up after - seven days' weary illness, and people are dying round me so fast - that I was beginning to think I must soon die too. Now I am all - right, and shall soon get strong again.' - - [Illustration: CENTRAL AFRICAN GOAT.] - - "The news, when told to me in detail, was grievous. Five of our - Wangwana were dead from small-pox; six others were seriously ill - from the same cause. Among the Arab slaves, neither inoculated nor - vaccinated, the mortality had been excessive from this fearful - pest. - - "At Rosako, the second camp from Bagamoyo, I had foreseen some such - event as this, and had vaccinated, as I had thought, all hands; but - it transpired, on inquiry now, that there were several who had not - responded to the call, through some silly prejudice against it. - Five of those unvaccinated were dead, and five were ill, as also - was one who had received the vaccine. When I examined the - medicine-chest, I found the tubes broken and the lymph dried up. - - "The Arabs were dismayed at the pest and its dreadful havoc among - their families and slaves. Every house was full of mourning and - woe. There were no more agreeable visits and social converse; each - kept himself in strict seclusion, fearful of being stricken with - it. Khamis the Baluch was dead, his house was closed, and his - friends were sorrowing. Mohammed bin Gharib had lost two children; - Muini Kheri was lamenting the deaths of three children. The - mortality was increasing; it was now from fifty to seventy-five - daily among a population of about three thousand. Bitter were the - complainings against the hot season and close atmosphere, and - fervent the prayers for rain! - - "Frank had been assiduous in his assistance to our friends. He had - elevated himself in their opinion by his devotion and sympathy, - until sickness had laid its heavy hand on him. The Wangwana were - now his sincere admirers, and the chiefs were his friends. - Formerly, while ignorant of the language, he and they were, perhaps - of necessity, mutually distant; they now fraternized warmly. - - "Our messengers had not returned with our letters from Unyanyembé, - but, to escape the effects of the epidemic, it was necessary to - move and resume our journey westward. The Wangwana were therefore - ordered to prepare, and my last letters were written; but, though I - hoped to be ready on the 17th to strike camp, I was attacked by a - serious fever. This delayed me until the evening of the 25th. - - "When, on the morning of the 25th of August, the drum and bugle - announced that our travels were to be resumed, I had cause to - congratulate myself that I had foreseen that many desertions would - take place, and that I was prepared in a measure for it by having - discarded many superfluities. But I was not prepared to hear that - thirty-eight men had deserted. Thirty-eight out of one hundred and - seventy was a serious reduction of strength. I was also told by the - chiefs of the expedition, who were almost beside themselves with - fear, that this wholesale desertion threatened an entire and - complete dissolution of our force; that many more would desert _en - route_ to Kabogo, as the people were demoralized by the prospect of - being eaten by Manyema cannibals. As neither Frank nor I relished - the idea of being compelled to return to Zanzibar before we had - obtained a view of the Lualaba, I mustered as many as would answer - to their names; and out of these, selecting such as appeared - unstable and flighty, I secured thirty-two, and surrounded our - house with guards. - - [Illustration: M'SEHAZY HAVEN AND CAMP, AT THE MOUTH OF M'SEHAZY - RIVER.] - - "After preparing the canoes and getting the boat ready, those who - did not bear a good character for firmness and fidelity were - conducted under guard to the transport canoes; the firm and - faithful, and those believed to be so, were permitted to march on - land with myself towards Kabogo Cape, or M'sehazy Creek, whence the - crossing of the Tanganika was to be effected. Out of the one - hundred and thirty-two men, of whom the expedition now consisted, - only thirty were intrusted with guns, as my faith in the stability - of the Wangwana was utterly destroyed, despite their protestations - to the contrary. I could afford to lose weak, fearful, and unworthy - men; but I could not afford to lose one gun. Though we had such a - show of strength left, I was only too conscious that there were - barely forty reliable and effective in a crisis, or in the presence - of danger; the rest were merely useful as bearers of burdens, or - porters. - - "When we resumed our journey the second day from Ukaranga, three - more were missing, which swelled the number of desertions to - forty-one, and reduced our force to one hundred and twenty-nine. - After we had crossed the Tanganika and arrived in Uguha, two more - disappeared, one of whom was young Kalulu, whom I had taken to - England and the United States, and whom I had placed in an English - school for eighteen months. - - "Induced to do so by the hope that I should secure their attachment - to the cause of the expedition, I had purchased from Sultan bin - Kassim six bales of cloth at an enormous price, £350, and had - distributed them all among the people gratuitously. This wholesale - desertion, at the very period when their services were about to be - most needed, was my reward! The desertion and faithless conduct of - Kalulu did not, as may be imagined, augment my hopes, or increase - my faith in the fidelity of my people. But it determined me to - recover some of the deserters. Francis Pocock and the detective of - the expedition, the ever faithful and gallant Kachéché, were - therefore sent back with a squad to Ujiji, with instructions how to - act; and one night Kachéché pounced upon six fellows, who, after a - hard and tough resistance, were secured; and after his return to - Uguha with these he successfully recovered the runaway Kalulu on - Kasengé Island. These seven, along with a few others arrested in - the act of desertion, received merited punishments, which put an - end to misconduct and faithlessness, and prevented the wreck of the - expedition. - - "It must not be supposed that I was more unfortunate than other - travellers; for to the faithlessness of his people may be - attributed principally the long wanderings of poor Livingstone. - Cameron also lost a great number at Unyanyembé, as well as at - Ujiji. Experience had taught me on my first journey to Central - Africa that Wangwana would desert at every opportunity, especially - in the vicinity of the Arab depots. It was to lessen these - opportunities for desertion that I had left the Unyanyembé road, - and struck through Ituru and Iramba; and though my losses in men - were great from famine, the ferocity of the natives, and sickness, - they did not amount to half of what they certainly would have been - had I touched at Unyanyembé. By adopting this route, despite the - calamities that we were subjected to for a short season, I had - gained time, and opened new countries hitherto unexplored. - - "Unless the traveller in Africa exerts himself to keep his force - intact, he cannot hope to perform satisfactory service. If he - relaxes his watchfulness, it is instantly taken advantage of by the - weak-minded and the indolent. Livingstone lost at least six years - of time, and finally his life, by permitting his people to desert. - If a follower left his service, he even permitted him to remain in - the same village with him, without attempting to reclaim him, or to - compel that service which he had bound himself to render at - Zanzibar. The consequence of this excessive mildness was that he - was left at last with only seven men, out of nearly seventy. His - noble character has won from us a tribute of affection and esteem, - but it has had no lasting good effect on the African. At the same - time, over-severity is as bad as over-gentleness in dealing with - these men. What is required is pure, simple justice between man and - man. - - [Illustration: HUTS AND STORE-HOUSE.] - - "The general infidelity and instability of the Wangwana arises, in - great part, from their weak minds becoming a prey to terror of - imaginary dangers. Thus, the Johanna men deserted Livingstone - because they heard the terrible Mafitté were in the way; my - runaways of Ujiji fled from the danger of being eaten by the - Manyema. - - "The slaves of Sungoro, the coast trader at Kagehyi, Usukuma, - informed my people that Lake Victoria spread as far as the Salt - Sea, that it had no end, and that the people on its shores loved - the flesh of man better than that of goats. This foolish report - made it a most difficult matter to man the exploring boat, and over - a hundred swore by Allah that they knew nothing of rowing. - - "A similar scene took place when about to circumnavigate the - Tanganika, for the Arab slaves had spread such reports of Muzimus, - hobgoblins, fiery meteors, terrible spirits, such as Kabogo, - Katavi, Kateye, and Wanpembé, that the teeth of Wanyamwezi and - Wangwana chattered with fright. But no reports exercised such a - terrible effect on their weak minds as the report of the Manyema - cannibals; none were so greedily listened to, none more readily - believed. - - "The path which traders and their caravans follow to Manyema begins - at Mtowa, in Uguha, and, continuing south a few miles over a series - of hills, descends into the plain of the Rugumba River about - half-way between the Lukuga River and the traders' crossing-place. - - "The conduct of the first natives to whom we were introduced - pleased us all. They showed themselves in a very amiable light, - sold their corn cheaply and without fuss, behaved themselves - decently and with propriety, though their principal men, - entertaining very strange ideas of the white men, carefully - concealed themselves from view, and refused to be tempted to - expose themselves within view or hearing of us. - - [Illustration: SUB-CHIEF, WEST OF LAKE TANGANIKA.] - - "Their doubts of our character were reported to us by a friendly - young Arab as follows: 'Kassanga, chief of Ruanda, says, "How can - the white men be good when they come for no trade, whose feet one - never sees, who always go covered from head to foot with clothes? - Do not tell me they are good and friendly. There is something very - mysterious about them; perhaps wicked. Probably they are magicians; - at any rate, it is better to leave them alone, and to keep close - until they are gone."' - - "From Ruanda, where we halted only for a day, we began in earnest - the journey to Manyema, thankful that the Tanganika was safely - crossed, and that the expedition had lost no more of its strength. - - "On the third day, after gradually ascending to a height of eight - hundred feet above the lake, across a series of low hilly ridges - and scantily wooded valleys, which abound with buffalo, we reached - the crest of a range which divides the tributaries of the Lualaba - from those of Lake Tanganika. This range also serves as a boundary - between Uguha and Ubujwé, a country adjoining the former - northwesterly. The western portions of Uguha, and southeastern - Ubujwé, are remarkable for their forests of fruit-trees, of which - there are several varieties, called the Masuku, Mbembu (or - wood-apple), Singwé (wild African damson), the Matonga (or - nux-vomica), custard-apple, etc. A large quantity of honey was also - obtained; indeed, an army might subsist for many weeks in this - forest on the various luscious fruits it contains. Our people - feasted on them, as also on the honey and buffalo meat which I was - fortunate in obtaining. - - [Illustration: HEADS OF MEN OF MANYEMA.] - - "Our acquaintance with the Wabujwé commenced at Lambo, or - Mulolwa's, situated at the confluence of the Rugumba with the - Rubumba. In these people we first saw the mild, amiable, - unsophisticated innocence of this part of Central Africa, and their - behavior was exactly the reverse of the wild, ferocious, - cannibalistic races the Arabs had described to us. - - "From our experience of them, the natives of Rua, Uguha, and Ubujwé - appear to be the _élite_ of the hair-dressed fashionables of - Africa. Hair-dressing is, indeed, carried to an absurd perfection - throughout all this region, and among the various styles I have - seen, some are surpassing in taste and neatness, and almost - pathetic from the carefulness with which poor, wild nature has done - its best to decorate itself. - - [Illustration: NATIVES OF UBUJWÉ.] - - "The Waguha and Wabujwé, among other characteristics, are very - partial to the arts of sculpture and turning. They carve statues in - wood, which they set up in their villages. Their house doors often - exhibit carvings resembling the human face; and the trees in the - forest between the two countries frequently present specimens of - their ingenuity in this art. Some have also been seen to wear - wooden medals, whereon a rough caricature of a man's features was - represented. At every village in Ubujwé excellent wooden bowls and - basins of a very light wood (Rubiaceæ), painted red, are offered - for sale. - - "Beyond Kundi our journey lay across chains of hills, of a conical - or rounded form, which enclosed many basins or valleys. While the - Rugumba, or Rubumba, flows northwesterly to the east of Kundi, as - far as Kizambala on the Luama River, we were daily, sometimes - hourly, fording or crossing the tributaries of the Luama. - - [Illustration: A NATIVE OF UHYEYA.] - - "Adjoining Ubujwé is Uhyeya, inhabited by a tribe who are decidedly - a scale lower in humanity than their ingenious neighbors. What - little merit they possess seems to have been derived from commerce - with the Wabujwé. The Wahyeya are also partial to ochre, black - paints, and a composition of black mud, which they mould into the - form of a plate, and attach to the back part of the head. Their - upper teeth are filed, 'out of regard to custom,' they say, and not - from any taste for human flesh. - - "When questioned as to whether it was their custom to eat of the - flesh of people slain in battle, they were positive in their - denial, and protested great repugnance to such a diet, though they - eat the flesh of all animals except that of dogs. - - "Simple and dirt-loving as these poor people were, they were - admirable for the readiness with which they supplied all our wants, - voluntarily offering themselves, moreover, as guides to lead us to - Uvinza, the next country we had to traverse. - - "Uvinza now seems to be nothing more than a name of a small - district which occupies a small basin of some few miles square. At - a former period it was very populous, as the many ruined villages - we passed through proved. The slave-traders, when not manfully - resisted, leave broad traces wherever they go. - - [Illustration: ONE OF THE WAHYEYA OF UHOMBO. - - (BACK VIEW.)] - - "A very long march from Kagongwé in Uvinza brought us to the - pleasant basin of Uhombo, remarkable for its fertility, its groves - of Guinea-palms, and its beauty. This basin is about six miles - square, but within this space there is scarcely a two-acre plot of - level ground to be seen. The whole forms a picture of hilltops, - slopes, valleys, hollows, and intersecting ridges in happy - diversity. Myriads of cool, clear streams course through, in time - united by the Lubangi into a pretty little river, flowing westerly - to the Luama. It was the most delightful spot that we had seen. As - the people were amiable, and disposed to trade, we had soon an - abundance of palm-butter for cooking, sugar-cane, fine goats and - fat chickens, sweet potatoes, beans, pease, nuts, and manioc, - millet and other grain for flour, ripe bananas for dessert, - plantain and palm wines for cheer, and an abundance of soft, cool, - clear water to drink! - - [Illustration: A VALLEY AMONG THE HILLS.] - - "Subsequently we had many such pleasant experiences; but as it was - the first, it deserves a more detailed description. - - "Travellers from Africa have often written about African villages, - yet I am sure few of those at home have ever comprehended the - reality. I now propose to lay it before them in this sketch of a - village in the district of Uhombo. The village consists of a number - of low, conical grass huts, ranged round a circular common, in the - centre of which are three or four fig-trees, kept for the double - purpose of supplying shade to the community, and bark-cloth to the - chief. The doorways to the huts are very low, scarcely thirty - inches high. The common fenced round by the grass huts shows - plainly the ochreous color of the soil, and it is so well trodden - that not a grass blade thrives upon it. - - [Illustration: GOING A-FISHING.] - - "On presenting myself in the common, I attracted out of doors the - owners and ordinary inhabitants of each hut, until I found myself - the centre of quite a promiscuous population of men, women, - children, and infants. Though I had appeared here for the purpose - of studying the people of Uhombo, and making a treaty of friendship - with the chief, the villagers seemed to think I had come merely to - make a free exhibition of myself as some natural monstrosity. - - "I saw before me over a hundred beings of the most degraded, - unpresentable type it is possible to conceive, and though I knew - quite well that some thousands of years ago the beginning of this - wretched humanity and myself were one and the same, a sneaking - disinclination to believe it possessed me strongly, and I would - even now willingly subscribe some small amount of silver money for - him who could but assist me to controvert the discreditable fact. - - "But common-sense tells me not to take into undue consideration - their squalor, their ugliness, or nakedness, but to gauge their - true position among the human race by taking a view of the - cultivated fields and gardens of Uhombo, and I am compelled to - admit that these debased specimens of humanity only plant and sow - such vegetables and grain as I myself should cultivate were I - compelled to provide for my own sustenance. I see, too, that their - huts, though of grass, are almost as well made as the materials - will permit, and, indeed, I have often slept in worse. Speak with - them in their own dialect of the law of _meum_ and _tuum_, and it - will soon appear that they are intelligent enough upon that point. - Moreover, the muscles, tissues, and fibres of their bodies, and all - the organs of sight, hearing, smell, or motion, are as well - developed as in us. Only in taste and judgment, based upon larger - experience, in the power of expression, in morals and intellectual - culture, are we superior. - - "I strive, therefore, to interest myself in my gross and - rudely-shaped brothers and sisters. Almost bursting into a laugh at - the absurdity, I turn towards an individual whose age marks him out - as one to whom respect is due, and say to him, after the common - manner of greeting: - - "My brother, sit you down by me on this mat, and let us be friendly - and sociable and as I say it I thrust into his wide-open hand - twenty cowries, the currency of the land. One look at his hand as - he extended it, made me think I could carve a better-looking hand - out of a piece of rhinoceros-hide. - - "While speaking I look at his face, which is like an ugly and - extravagant mask, clumsily manufactured from some strange, - dark-brown, coarse material. The lips proved the thickness of skin - which nature had endowed him with, and by the obstinacy with which - they refused to meet each other the form of the mouth was but - ill-defined, though capacious and garnished with its full - complement of well-preserved teeth. - - "His nose was so flat that I inquired in a perfectly innocent - manner as to the reason for such a feature. - - [Illustration: VILLAGE FORGE AND IDOL.] - - "'Ah,' said he, with a sly laugh, 'it is the fault of my mother, - who, when I was young, bound me too tight to her back.' - - "His hair had been compelled to obey the capricious fashion of his - country, and was therefore worked up into furrows and ridges and - central cones, bearing a curious resemblance to the formation of - the land around Uhombo. I wonder if the art grew by perceiving - nature's fashion and mould of his country? - - "Descending from the face, which, crude, large-featured, rough-hewn - as it was, bore witness to the possession of much sly humor and a - kindly disposition, my eyes fastened on his naked body. Through the - ochreous daubs I detected strange freaks of pricking on it, circles - and squares and crosses, and traced with wonder the many hard lines - and puckers created by age, weather, ill-usage, and rude keeping. - - "His feet were monstrous abortions, with soles as hard as hoofs, - and his legs, as high up as the knees, were plastered with - successive strata of dirt; his loin-cover or the queer 'girding - tackle' need not be described. They were absolutely appalling to - good taste, and the most ragged British beggar or Neapolitan - lazzarone is sumptuously, nay, regally, clothed in comparison to - this 'king' in Uhombo. - - "If the old chief appeared so unprepossessing, how can I paint - without offence my humbler brothers and sisters who stood round us? - As I looked at the array of faces, I could only comment to - myself--ugly--uglier--ugliest. - - "And what shall I say of the hideous and queer appendages that they - wear about their waists; the tags of monkey-skin, and bits of - gorilla-bone, goat-horn, shells--strange tags to stranger tackle? - and of the things around their necks--brain of mice, skin of viper, - 'adder's fork, and blind worm's sting?' And how strangely they - smell, all these queer, manlike creatures who stand regarding me! - Not silently; on the contrary, there is a loud interchange of - comments upon the white's appearance; a manifestation of broad - interest to know whence I come, whither I am going, and what is my - business. And no sooner are the questions asked than they are - replied to by such as pretend to know. The replies were followed by - long-drawn ejaculations of 'Wa-a-a-antu!' ('Men!') 'Eha-a, and - these are men!' - - "Now imagine this! While we whites are loftily disputing among - ourselves as to whether the beings before us are human, here were - these creatures actually expressing strong doubts as to whether we - whites are men! - - [Illustration: READY FOR FIGHTING.] - - "A dead silence prevailed for a short time, during which all the - females dropped their lower jaws far down, and then cried out again - 'Wa-a-a-a-a-antu!' ('Men!') The lower jaws, indeed, dropped so low - that, when, in a posture of reflection, they put their hands up to - their chins, it really looked as if they had done so to lift the - jaws up to their proper place and to sustain them there. And in - that position they pondered upon the fact that there were men - 'white all over' in this queer, queer world! - - "The open mouths gave one a chance to note the healthy state and - ruby color of the tongues, palates, and gums, and, above all, the - admirable order and brilliant whiteness of each set of teeth. - - "'Great events from trivial causes spring'--and while I was trying - to calculate how many Kubaba (measure of two pounds) of millet-seed - would be requisite to fill all these hutch-oven mouths, and how - many cowries would be required to pay for such a large quantity of - millet, and wondering at the antics of the juveniles of the - population, whose uncontainable, irrepressible wonder seemed to - find its natural expression in hopping on one leg, thrusting their - right thumbs into their mouths to repress the rising scream, and - slapping their thighs to express or give emphasis to what was - speechless--while thus engaged, and just thinking it was time to - depart, it happened that one of the youthful innocents already - described, more restless than his brothers, stumbled across a long, - heavy pole which was leaning insecurely against one of the trees. - The pole fell, striking one of my men severely on the head. And all - at once there went up from the women a genuine and unaffected cry - of pity, and their faces expressed so lively a sense of tender - sympathy with the wounded man, that my heart, keener than my eyes, - saw, through the disguise of filth, nakedness, and ochre, the human - heart beating for another's suffering, and I then recognized and - hailed them as indeed my own poor and degraded sisters. - - "Under the new light which had dawned on me, I reflected that I had - done some wrong to my dusky relatives, and that they might have - been described less harshly, and introduced to the world with less - disdain. - - "Before I quitted the village they made me still more regret my - former haughty feelings, for the chief and his subjects loaded my - men with bounties of bananas, chickens, Indian corn, and malafu - (palm-wine), and escorted me respectfully far beyond the precincts - of the village and their fields, parting from me at last with the - assurance that, should I ever happen to return by their country, - they would endeavor to make my second visit to Uhombo much more - agreeable than my first had been. - - "On the 5th of October our march from Uhombo brought us to the - frontier village of Manyema, which is called Riba-Riba. It is - noteworthy as the starting-point of another order of African - architecture. The conical style of hut is exchanged for the square - hut with more gradually-sloping roof, wattled, and sometimes neatly - plastered with mud; especially those in Manyema. Here, too, the - thin-bodied and long-limbed goat, to which we had been accustomed, - gave place to the short-legged, large bodied, and capacious-uddered - variety of Manyema. The gray parrots with crimson tails here also - first began to abound, and the hoarse growl of the fierce and shy - 'soko' (gorilla?) was first heard. - - "From the day we cross the watershed that divides the affluents of - the Tanganika from the head-waters of the Luama, there is observed - a gradual increase in the splendor of Nature. By slow degrees she - exhibits to us, as we journey westward, her rarest beauties, her - wealth, and all the profligacy of her vegetation. In the forests of - Miketo, and on the western slopes of the Goma Mountains, she - scatters with liberal hand her luxuries of fruits, and along the - banks of streams we see revealed the wild profusion of her - bounties. - - "As we increase the distance from the Tanganika we find the land - disposed in graceful lines and curves; ridges heave up, separating - valley from valley, hills lift their heads in the midst of the - basins and mountain-ranges, at greater distances apart, bound wide - prospects, wherein the lesser hill-chains, albeit of dignified - proportions, appear but as agreeable diversities of scenery. - - "Over the whole, Nature has flung a robe of verdure of the most - fervid tints. She has bidden the mountains loose their streamlets, - has commanded the hills and ridges to bloom, filled the valleys - with vegetation breathing perfume; for the rocks she has woven - garlands of creepers, and the stems of trees she has draped with - moss; and sterility she has banished from her domain. - - "Yet Nature has not produced a soft, velvety, smiling England in - the midst of Africa. Far from it. She is here too robust and - prolific. Her grasses are coarse, and wound like knives and - needles; her reeds are tough and tall as bamboos; her creepers and - convolvuli are of cable thickness and length; her thorns are books - of steel; her trees shoot up to a height of a hundred feet. We find - no pleasure in straying in search of wild-flowers, and game is left - undisturbed, because of the difficulty of moving about, for, once - the path is left, we find ourselves over head among thick, tough, - unyielding, lacerating grass. - - "At Manyema the beauty of Nature becomes terrible, and in the - expression of her powers she is awful. The language of Swahili has - words to paint her in every mood. English, rich as it is, is found - insufficient. In the former we have the word Pori for a forest, an - ordinary thickly-wooded tract; but for the forests of Manyema it - has four special words--Mohuro, Mwitu, Mtambani, and Msitu. For - Mohuro we might employ the words jungly forest; for Mwitu, dense - woods; but for Msitu and Mtambani we have no single equivalent, nor - could we express their full meaning without a series of epithets - ending with 'tangled jungle' or 'impervious underwood, in the midst - of a dense forest'--for such is in reality the nature of a Manyema - Msitu. - - "I am of opinion that Manyema owes its fertility to the mountains - west of the Tanganika, which by their altitude suddenly cool and - liquefy the vapors driven over their tops by the southeast monsoon; - for while Uguha west was robed in green, its lake front was black - with the ashes of burned grass. - - "We left Riba-Riba's old chief, and his numerous progeny of boys - and girls, and his wonderful subjects, encamped on their - mountain-top, and journeyed on with rapid pace through tall - forests, and along the crests of wooded ridges, down into the - depths of gloomy dingles, and up again to daylight into view of - sweeping circles of bearded ridges and solemn woods, to - Ka-Bambarré. - - [Illustration: AFRICAN OWLS.] - - "Even though this place had no other associations, it would be - attractive and alluring for its innocent wildness; but, associated - as it is with Livingstone's sufferings, and that self-sacrificing - life he led here, I needed only to hear from Mwana Ngoy, son of - Mwana Kusu,[7] 'Yes, this is the place where the old white man - stopped for many moons,' to make up my mind to halt. - - [7] Mwana, _lord_; Kusu, _parrot_. - - [Illustration: A VILLAGE IN MANYEMA.] - - "'Ah! he lived here, did he?' - - "'Yes.' - - "By this time the population of Ka-Bambarré, seeing their chief in - conversation with the white stranger, had drawn round us under a - palm-tree, and mats were spread for us to seat ourselves. - - "'Did you know the old white man? Was he your father?' - - "'He was not my father; but I knew him well.' - - "'Eh, do you hear that?' he asked his people. 'He says he knew him. - Was he not a good man?' - - "'Yes; very good.' - - "'You say well. He was good to me, and he saved me from the Arabs - many a time. The Arabs are hard men, and often he would step - between them and me when they were hard on me. He was a good man, - and my children were fond of him. I hear he is dead?' - - "'Yes, he is dead.' - - "'Where has he gone to?' - - "'Above, my friend,' said I, pointing to the sky. - - "'Ah,' said he, breathlessly, and looking up, 'did he come from - above?' - - "'No; but good men like him go above when they die.' - - "We had many conversations about him. The sons showed me the house - he had lived in for a long time, when prevented from further - wandering by the ulcers in his feet. In the village his memory is - cherished, and will be cherished forever. - - "It was strange what a sudden improvement in the physiognomy of the - native had occurred. In the district of Uhombo we had seen a truly - debased negro type. Here we saw people of the Ethiopic negro type, - worthy to rank next the more refined Waganda. Mwana Ngoy himself - was nothing very remarkable. Age had deprived him of his good - looks; but there were about him some exceedingly pretty women, with - winsome ways about them that were quite charming. - - [Illustration: A YOUTH OF EAST MAMYEMA.] - - [Illustration: A MANYEMA ADULT.] - - "Mwana Ngoy, I suppose, is one of the vainest of vain men. I fancy - I can see him now, strutting about his village with his sceptral - staff, an amplitude of grass-cloth about him, which, when measured, - gives exactly twenty-four square yards, drawn in double folds - about his waist, all tags, tassels, and fringes, and painted in - various colors, bronze and black and white and yellow, and on his - head a plumy head-dress. - - [Illustration: THE VALLEY OF MABARO.] - - "What charms lurk in feathers! From the grand British dowager down - to Mwana Ngoy of Ka-Bambarré, all admit the fascination of - feathers, whether plucked from ostriches or barn-door fowl. - - "Mwana Ngoy's plumes were the tribute of the village chanticleers, - and his vanity was so excited at the rustle of his feathered crest - that he protruded his stomach to such a distance that his head was - many degrees from the perpendicular. - - "On the 10th of October we arrived at Kizambala, presided over by - another chief called Mwana Ngoy, a relative of him of Ka-Bambarré. - - "Up to this date we had seen some twenty villages, and probably - four thousand natives, of Manyema, and may therefore be permitted - some generalizations. - - "The Manyema, then, have several noteworthy peculiarities. Their - arms are a short sword scabbarded with wood, to which are hung - small brass and iron bells, a light, beautifully balanced - spear--probably, next to the spear of Uganda, the most perfect in - the world. Their shields were veritable wooden doors. Their dress - consisted of a narrow apron of antelope-skin, or finely-made - grass-cloth. They wore knobs, cones, and patches of mud attached to - their beards, back hair, and behind the ears. Old Mwana Ngoy had - rolled his beard in a ball of dark mud; his children wore their - hair in braids, with mud fringes. His drummer had a great - crescent-shaped patch of mud at the back of the head. At Kizambala - the natives had horns and cones of mud on the tops of their heads. - Others, more ambitious, covered the entire head with a crown of - mud. - - "The women, blessed with an abundance of hair, manufactured it with - a stiffening of light cane into a bonnet-shaped head-dress, - allowing the back hair to flow down to the waist in masses of - ringlets. They seemed to do all the work of life, for at all hours - they might be seen, with their large wicker baskets behind them, - setting out for the rivers or creeks to catch fish, or returning - with their fuel baskets strapped on across their foreheads. - - [Illustration: A YOUNG WOMAN OF EAST MANYEMA.] - - "Their villages consist of one or more broad streets, from one - hundred to one hundred and fifty feet wide, flanked by low, square - huts, arranged in tolerably straight lines, and generally situated - on swells of land, to secure rapid drainage. At the end of one of - these streets is the council and gossip house, overlooking the - length of the avenue. In the centre is a platform of tamped clay, - with a heavy tree-trunk sunk into it, and in the wood have been - scooped out a number of troughs, so that several women may pound - grain at once. It is a substitute for the village mill. - - "The houses are separated into two or more apartments, and on - account of the compact nature of the clay and tamped floor are - easily kept clean. The roofs are slimy with the reek of smoke, as - though they had been painted with coal-tar. The household - chattels or furniture are limited to food-baskets, earthenware - pots, an assortment of wickerwork dishes, the family shields, - spears, knives, swords, and tools, and the fish-baskets lying - outside. - - [Illustration: VILLAGE SCENE IN SOUTHEAST MANYEMA.] - - "They are tolerably hospitable, and permit strangers the free use - of their dwellings. The bananas and plantains are very luxuriant, - while the Guinea palms supply the people with oil and wine; the - forests give them fuel, the rivers fish, and the gardens cassava, - ground-nuts, and Indian corn. - - "The chiefs enact strict laws, and, though possessed of but little - actual power either of wealth or retinue, exact the utmost - deference, and are exceedingly ceremonious, being always followed - by a drummer, who taps his drum with masterly skill born of long - and continued practice. - - "On the 11th we crossed the Luama River--a stream two hundred yards - wide and eight feet deep in the centre at the ferry--called the - Rugumba in Ubujwé. Below the ford, as far as the Lualaba, its - current is from three to six knots an hour, and about five feet - deep, flowing over a shaly bed. - - "On the western side of the Luama the women at once fled upon the - approach of our caravan--a certain sign that there had been trouble - between them and Arabs. - - "My predecessors, Livingstone and Cameron, had, after crossing the - stream, proceeded west, but I preferred to follow the Luama to its - junction with the Lualaba, and thence to Nyangwé. - - "The Luama valley is about twenty miles wide, furrowed with many - water-courses; the soil is poor, abounding with yellow quartz, but - resting upon soft shale. The ridges are formed of dykes of granite, - which peep out frequently in large masses from among the foliage of - trees. - - "The people appeared to be very timid, but behaved amiably. Over - fifty followed us, and carried loads most willingly. Three - volunteered to follow us wherever we should go, but we declined - their offer. - - "Our riding-donkeys were the first ever seen in Manyema, and - effected a striking demonstration in our favor. They obtained more - admiration than even we Europeans. Hundreds of natives ran up to us - at each village in the greatest excitement to behold the strange, - long-eared animals, and followed us long distances from their homes - to observe the donkeys' motions. - - "One donkey, known by the name of Muscati, a high-spirited animal - from Arabia, possessed braying powers which almost equalled the - roar of a lion in volume, and really appeared to enjoy immensely - the admiration he excited. His asinine soul took great delight in - braying at the unsophisticated Africans of the trans-Luama, for his - bray sent them flying in all directions. Scores of times during a - day's march we were asked the name of the beast, and, having - learned it, they were never tired of talking about the 'Mpunda.' - - "One must not rashly impute all the blame to the Arabs and - Wa-Swahili of the Zanzibar coast for their excesses in Manyema, for - the natives are also in a way to blame. Just as the Saxon and Dane - and Jute, invited by the Britons, became their masters, so the - Arabs, invited by the Manyema to assist them against one another, - have become their tyrants. - - [Illustration: HOUSE OF AN ARAB MERCHANT, CENTRAL AFRICA.] - - "Bribes were offered to us three times by Manyema chiefs to assist - them in destroying their neighbors, to whom they are of near kin, - and with whom they have almost daily intimate relations. Our - refusal of ivory and slaves appeared to surprise the chiefs, and - they expressed the opinion that we white men were not as good as - the Arabs, for--though it was true we did not rob them of their - wives and daughters, enslave their sons, or despoil them of a - single article--the Arabs would have assisted them. - - [Illustration: HOUSE OF A MANYEMA CHIEF.] - - "One really does not know whether to pity or to despise the natives - of Manyema. Many are amiable enough to deserve good and kind - treatment, but others are hardly human. They fly to the woods upon - the approach of strangers, leaving their granaries[8] of Indian - corn, erected like screens across the streets, or just outside the - villages, in tempting view of hungry people. If the strangers - follow them into the woods to persuade them to return and sell - food, the purpose of the visit is mistaken, and they are assailed - from behind depths of bush and tall trees. They are humble and - liberal to the strong-armed Arab, savage and murderous and - cannibalistic to small bands, and every slain man provides a - banquet of meat for the forest-natives of Manyema. Livingstone's - uniform gentle treatment of all classes deserved a better return - than to have his life attempted four times. His patience finally - exhausted, and his life in danger, he gave the order to his men, - 'Fire upon them, these men are wicked.' - - [8] These granaries consist of tall poles--like telegraph - poles--planted at a distance of about ten feet from each other, to - which are attached about a dozen lines of lliane, or creepers, at - intervals, from top to bottom. On these several lines are suspended - the maize, point downwards, by the shucks of the cob. Their - appearance suggests lofty screens built up of corn. - - "On the 13th, after a march of thirteen miles in a west-southwest - direction, along a very crooked path, we arrived at Kabungwé. - - "At this settlement we observed for the first time spears all of - wood, having their points sharp and hardened in fire and shafts - eight to ten feet long. As each warrior possesses a sheaf of these - weapons, besides a vast wooden shield, he is sufficiently armed - against a native enemy, and might, by a little boldness, become a - dangerous foe to an Arab. - - "The currency throughout Manyema consists of cowries. Six cowries - formed the ration money of the Wangwana, three cowries purchased a - chicken, two procured ten maize-ears, one cowrie obtained the - service of a native to grind the grain, two cowries were a day's - hire for a porter; so that the Wangwana and Wanyamwezi were - enjoying both abundance and relief from labor while we were - travelling through Manyema. - - "At Kabungwé I was alarmed at an insufferable odor that pervaded - the air we breathed, for, whether in the house or without, the - atmosphere seemed loaded with an intolerable stench. On inquiring - of the natives whether there was any dead animal putrefying in the - neighborhood, they pointed to the firewood that was burning, and to - a tree--a species of laurel--as that which emitted the smell. Upon - examination I found it was indeed due to this strange wood, which, - however, only becomes offensive under the action of fire. - - "Between Kabungwé and Mtuyu, our next camp, the country is - extremely populous. Were all the villages we passed inhabited by - brave men, a brigade of European troops could not move without - precaution. The people, however, did not attempt to molest us, - though an enormous number came out to stare at us and our donkeys. - - "The natives are quick to adopt nicknames. In some places the Arabs - were known by the name of Mwana Ngombé, 'lords of cows.' - - "The Sarmeen of my first expedition received from his comrades, for - his detective qualities, the name of Kachéché, or the 'weasel.' - - "Sambuzi received the title of Mta-uza, or the 'spoiler;' and one - of his subordinates was called Kiswaga, or 'fleet-foot.' - - "Kalulu's name was formerly Ndugu Mali, 'brother of money.' - - "Wadi Safeni had a young relative in the expedition entitled Akili - Mali, or 'one who is wise with his money.' - - "In the same manner countries receive appellations distinctive of - peculiarities, such as, - - Unya-Nyembé, land of hoes. - U-Yofu, land of elephants. - Unya-Mbewa, land of goats. - Unya-Nkondo, land of sheep. - U-Konongo, land of travellers. - Unya-Nguruwé, land of hogs. - U-Nguru, land of mountains. - U-Kusu, land of parrots. - U-Ganda, land of drums. - U-Lungu or U-Rungu, plain land. - Ma-Rungu, plateau land. - U-Kutu, land of ears (long ears?). - U-Karanga, land of ground nuts. - U-Lua, or U-Rua, land of lakes. - U-Emba, lake land. - U-Bwari, land of food. - - "Mtuyu is the easternmost settlement of the country of Uzura. On - arrival we perceived that all their women were absent, and - naturally inquired what had become of them. They replied, in - pathetic strains, 'Oh, they are all dead; all cut off, every one. - It was the small-pox!' - - "We sympathized with them, of course, because of such a terrible - loss, and attempted to express our concern. But one of our - enterprising people, while endeavoring to search out a good market - for his cowries, discovered several dozen of the women in a wooded - ravine! They had been concealed under the supposition that we were - slave-hunters. - - "Skirting the range of hills which bounds the Luama valley on the - north, we marched to Mpungu, which is fifteen miles west of Mtuyu. - Kiteté, its chief, is remarkable for a plaited beard twenty inches - long, decorated at the tips with a number of blue glass beads. His - hair was also trussed up on the crown of his head in a shapely - mass. His brother possessed a beard six inches long; there were - half a dozen others with beards of three or four inches long. - Kiteté's symbol of royalty was a huge truncheon, or Hercules club, - blackened and hardened by fire. His village was neat, and the - architecture of the huts peculiar, as the picture below shows. - - [Illustration: KITETÉ, THE CHIEF OF MPUNGU.] - - "The Luama valley at Uzura at this season presents a waving extent - of grass-grown downs, and while crossing over the higher swells of - land we enjoyed uninterrupted views of thirty or forty miles to the - west and south. - - [Illustration: VILLAGE NEAR KABUNGWÉ.] - - "From Mpungu we travelled through an interesting country (a - distance of four miles), and suddenly from the crest of a low ridge - saw the confluence of the Luama with the majestic Lualaba. The - former appeared to have a breadth of four hundred yards at the - mouth; the latter was about fourteen hundred yards wide, a broad - river of a pale gray color winding slowly from south and by east. - - "We hailed its appearance with shouts of joy, and rested on the - spot to enjoy the view. Across the river, beyond a tawny, grassy - stretch towards the south-southwest, is Mount Kijima; about one - thousand feet above the valley, to the south-southeast, across the - Luama, runs the Luhye-ya ridge; from its base the plain slopes to - the swift Luama. In the bed of the great river are two or three - small islands, green with the verdure of trees and sedge. I likened - it even here to the Mississippi, as it appears before the - impetuous, full-volumed Missouri pours its rusty-brown water into - it. - - "A secret rapture filled my soul as I gazed upon the majestic - stream. The great mystery that for all these centuries nature had - kept hidden away from the world of science was waiting to be - solved. For two hundred and twenty miles I had followed one of - the sources of the Livingstone to the confluence, and now before me - lay the superb river itself! My task was to follow it to the - ocean." - -[Illustration: NATIVE HOUSES AT MTUYU.] - -"It is getting late," said Mr. Stanley, glancing at his watch, "and I -will leave you at this point where you can dream of the great river and -its course to the sea. To-morrow you shall hear about some of the -difficulties we encountered in going forward with the expedition." - -As Mr. Stanley retired he was loudly applauded, and it was evident that -the little audience were greatly pleased to hear from his own lips the -account of his journey through the African wilderness. - -[Illustration: ANTS'-NEST IN MANYEMA.] - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -DIFFICULTIES OF LIVINGSTONE AND CAMERON WITH THEIR FOLLOWERS.--PERSONAL -APPEARANCE OF TIPPU-TIB.--NEGOTIATIONS FOR AN ESCORT.--TIPPU-TIB -ARRANGES TO GO WITH STANLEY.--THE WONDERS OF UREGGA.--GORILLAS AND -BOA-CONSTRICTORS.--THEIR REMARKABLE PERFORMANCES.--A NATION OF -DWARFS.--HOW STANLEY DECIDED WHAT ROUTE TO FOLLOW.--HEADS OR -TAILS?--"SHALL IT BE SOUTH OR NORTH?"--SIGNING THE CONTRACT WITH -TIPPU-TIB.--A REMARKABLE ACCIDENT.--ENTERING NYANGWÉ.--LOCATION AND -IMPORTANCE OF THE PLACE.--ITS ARAB RESIDENTS.--MARKET SCENES AT -NYANGWÉ.--READY FOR THE START. - - -The forenoon of the next day was passed as usual; and in the afternoon -the party assembled for the continuation of the story of the journey -across the Dark Continent. It was Fred's turn to read, and the young man -was promptly in his place at the table, and with the open volume before -him. - -[Illustration: HILL AND VILLAGE ON THE ROAD TO NYANGWÉ.] - -"Mr. Stanley left us, last evening," said Fred, "on the banks of the -great river which he called the Livingstone, but which is more familiar -to us as the Congo. Early the next day after his arrival he resumed his -march, pressing forward in the direction of Nyangwé, the farthest point -reached by Livingstone and afterwards by Cameron. Both these travellers -greatly desired to explore the mysterious river which flowed past -Nyangwé, but were unable to do so. Neither could induce his men to -advance beyond that point; they tried to purchase or hire canoes with -which to descend the river, but none could be obtained. - -"The same fate threatened to fall upon Stanley, and compel him to turn -back to Ujiji just as had been the case with Livingstone. But it was his -good-fortune to meet one Hamed bin Mohammed, or Tippu-Tib, an Arab -trader of great influence, who is well known throughout Central Africa. -He has a large force of Arabs under his control, and is a sort of -migratory king among the people where he moves. He can easily assemble a -thousand Arab fighting-men at a few days' notice, and at almost any -moment he can command the services of two or three hundred of them. Here -is a description of him as given by Mr. Stanley: - - "He was a tall, black-bearded man, of negroid complexion, in the - prime of life, straight, and quick in his movements, a picture of - energy and strength. He had a fine, intelligent face, with a - nervous twitching of the eyes, and gleaming white and perfectly - formed teeth. He was attended by a large retinue of young Arabs, - who looked up to him as chief, and a score of Wangwana and - Wanyamwezi followers whom he had led over thousands of miles - through Africa. - - "With the air of a well-bred Arab, and almost courtier-like in his - manner, he welcomed me to the village, and his slaves being ready - at hand with mat and bolster, he reclined _vis-à-vis_, while a buzz - of admiration of his style was perceptible from the on-lookers. - After regarding him for a few minutes, I came to the conclusion - that this Arab was a remarkable man--the most remarkable man I had - met among Arabs, Wa-Swahili, and half-castes in Africa. He was neat - in his person, his clothes were of a spotless white, his fez-cap - brand-new, his waist was encircled by a rich dowlé, his dagger was - splendid with silver filigree, and his _tout ensemble_ was that of - an Arab gentleman in very comfortable circumstances. - - "The person above described was the Arab who had escorted Cameron - across the Lualaba as far as Utotera, south latitude 5°, and east - longitude 25° 54'. Naturally, therefore, there was no person at - Nyangwé whose evidence was more valuable than Tippu-Tib's as to the - direction that my predecessor at Nyangwé had taken. The information - he gave me was sufficiently clear--and was, moreover, confirmed by - other Arabs--that the greatest problem of African geography was - left untouched at the exact spot where Dr. Livingstone had felt - himself unable to prosecute his travels, and whence he had retraced - his steps to Ujiji never to return to Nyangwé." - -"After a long conference," said Fred, "Mr. Stanley asked Tippu-Tib if he -would accompany the expedition in the exploration of the great river. -The Arab at first declined the proposal, but after several interviews -and a considerable amount of negotiation, it was arranged that, in -consideration of five thousand dollars, Tippu-Tib with one hundred and -fifty of his followers would accompany Mr. Stanley for a distance of -sixty marches from Nyangwé in any direction the latter should choose to -take. The contract between them was very carefully drawn, and a -considerable time was spent in arranging it. - -[Illustration: WAITING TO BE PHOTOGRAPHED.] - -"While these negotiations were in progress Mr. Stanley obtained all the -information possible from Arabs and others relative to the region he -proposed to visit. One Arab who claimed to have followed the course of -the river for a great distance said it flowed 'to the north, to the -north, always to the north, and there is no end to it till it reaches -the salt sea.' He had, he declared, travelled to the north along the -banks of the river till he reached the country of the dwarfs, a journey -of nine months. They were a powerful people, although they were so -small; the men were only a yard high, with big heads and long beards. -His party had a terrible fight with these dwarfs, who fought with -poisoned arrows that cause death almost instantly by the slightest -scratch. Every man that was killed was immediately eaten by the dwarfs, -who have the reputation of being the worst cannibals in all Africa. Out -of two or three hundred Arabs that went on this expedition, only about -thirty remained to return to Nyangwé. - -"After listening to this wonderful story Mr. Stanley asked the Arab if -he saw any other curious things on his journey. - -[Illustration: A YOUNG SOKO (GORILLA).] - -"'Oh, yes!' he answered. 'There are monstrous large boa-constrictors in -the forest of Uregga, suspended by their tails to the branches, waiting -for the passer-by or for a stray antelope. The ants in that forest are -not to be despised. You cannot travel without your body being covered -with them, when they sting you like wasps. The leopards are so numerous -that you cannot go very far without seeing one. Almost every native -wears a leopard-skin cap. The sokos (gorillas) are in the woods, and woe -befall the man or woman met alone by them; for they run up to you and -seize your hands, and bite the fingers off one by one, and as fast as -they bite one off, they spit it out. The Wasongora Meno and Waregga are -cannibals, and unless the force is very strong, they never let strangers -pass. It is nothing but constant fighting. Only two years ago a party -armed with three hundred guns started north of Usongora Meno; they only -brought sixty guns back, and no ivory. If one tries to go by the river, -there are falls after falls, which carry the people over and drown them. -A party of thirty men, in three canoes, went down the river half a day's -journey from Nyangwé, when the old white man (Livingstone) was living -there. They were all drowned, and that was the reason he did not go on. -Had he done so, he would have been eaten, for what could he have done? -Ah, no. Master, the country is bad, and the Arabs have given it up. They -will not try the journey into that country again, after trying it three -times and losing nearly five hundred men altogether.' - -"Before closing his contract with Tippu-Tib Mr. Stanley consulted Frank -Pocock, his only remaining white companion, in order to obtain his views -of the matter. I will read his account of the consultation and what -followed it. - - "At 6 P.M. a couple of saucers, filled with palm-oil and fixed with - cotton-wick, were lit. It was my after-dinner hour, the time for - pipes and coffee, which Frank was always invited to share. - - "When he came in the coffee-pot was boiling, and little Mabruki was - in waiting to pour out. The tobacco-pouch, filled with the - choicest production of Africa--that of Masansi, near Uvira--was - ready. Mabruki poured out the coffee, and retired, leaving us - together. - - "'Now Frank, my son,' I said, 'sit down. I am about to have a long - and serious chat with you. Life and death--yours as well as mine, - and those of all the expedition--hang on the decision I make - to-night.' - - [Illustration: BLACKSMITHS AT WORK.] - - "And then I reminded him of his friends at home, and also of the - dangers before him; of the sorrow his death would cause, and also - of the honors that would greet his success; of the facility of - returning to Zanzibar, and also of the perilous obstacles in the - way of advance--thus carefully alternating the _pro_ with the - _con_, so as not to betray my own inclinations. I reminded him of - the hideous scenes we had already been compelled to witness and to - act in, pointing out that other wicked tribes, no doubt, lay before - us; but also recalling to his memory how treachery, cunning, and - savage courage had been baulked by patience and promptitude; and - how we still possessed the power to punish those who threatened us - or murdered our friends. And I ended with words something like - these: - - "'There is, no doubt, some truth in what the Arabs say about the - ferocity of these natives before us. Livingstone, after fifteen - thousand miles of travel, and a lifetime of experience among - Africans, would not have yielded the brave struggle without strong - reasons; Cameron, with his forty-five Snider rifles, would never - have turned away from such a brilliant field if he had not - sincerely thought that they were insufficient to resist the - persistent attacks of countless thousands of wild men. But while we - grant that there may be a modicum of truth in what the Arabs say, - it is in their ignorant, superstitious nature to exaggerate what - they have seen. A score of times have we proved them wrong. Yet - their reports have already made a strong impression on the minds of - the Wangwana and Wanyamwezi. They are already trembling with fear, - because they suspect that I am about to attempt the cannibal lands - beyond Nyangwé. On the day that we propose to begin our journey, we - shall have no expedition. - - [Illustration: NATIVE TRAP FOR GAME.] - - "'On the other hand, I am confident that, if I am able to leave - Nyangwé with the expedition intact, and to place a breadth of wild - country between our party and the Arab depot, I shall be able to - make men of them. There are good stuff, heroic qualities, in them; - but we must get free from the Arabs, or they will be very soon - demoralized. It is for this purpose I am negotiating with - Tippu-Tib. If I can arrange with him and leave Nyangwé without the - dreadful loss we experienced at Ujiji, I feel sure that I can - inspire my men to dare anything with me. - - "'The difficulty of transport, again, is enormous. We cannot obtain - canoes at Nyangwé. Livingstone could not, Cameron failed. No doubt - I shall fail. I shall not try to obtain any. But we might buy up - all the axes that we can see between here and Nyangwé, and - travelling overland on this side the Lualaba, we might, before - Tippu-Tib's contract is at an end, come across a tribe which would - sell their canoes. We have sufficient stores to last a long time, - and I shall purchase more at Nyangwé. If the natives will not sell, - we can make our own canoes, if we possess a sufficient number of - axes to set all hands at work. - - "'Now, what I wish you to tell me, Frank, is your opinion as to - what we ought to do.' - - "Frank's answer was ready. - - "'I say, "Go on, sir."' - - "'Think well, my dear fellow; don't be hasty; life and death hang - on our decision. Don't you think we could explore to the east of - Cameron's road?' - - "'But there is nothing like this great river, sir.' - - "'What do you say to Lake Lincoln, Lake Kamolondo, Lake Bemba, and - all that part, down to the Zambezi?' - - "'Ah! that is a fine field, sir; and perhaps the natives would not - be so ferocious. Would they?' - - "'Yet, as you said just now, it would be nothing to the great - river, which for all these thousands of years has been flowing - steadily to the north through hundreds, perhaps thousands, of - miles, of which no one has ever heard a word.' - - [Illustration: CANOES ON THE RIVER.] - - "'Let us follow the river, sir.' - - "'Yet, my friend, think yet again. Look at all these faithful - fellows whose lives depend on our word; think of our own, for we - are yet young and strong and active. Why should we throw them away - for a barren honor, or if we succeed have every word we said - doubted, and carped at, and our motives misconstrued by malicious - minds, who distort everything to our injury?' - - "'Ah, true, sir. I was one of those who doubted that you had ever - found Livingstone. I don't mind telling you now. Until I came to - Zanzibar, and saw your people, I did not believe it, and there are - hundreds in Rochester who shared my opinion.' - - "'And do you believe, Frank, that you are in Manyema now?' - - "'I am obliged to, sir.' - - "'Are you not afraid, should you return to England, that when men - say you have never been to Africa, as no doubt they will, you will - come to disbelieve it yourself?' - - "'Ah, no, sir,' he replied. 'I can never forget Ituru; the death of - my brother in that wild land; the deaths of so many Wangwana there; - the great lake; Uganda; our march to Muta Nzege; Rumanika; my life - in Ujiji; the Tanganika; and our march here.' - - "'But what do you think, Frank? Had we not better explore northeast - of here, until we reach Muta Nzege, circumnavigate that lake, and - strike across to Uganda again, and return to Zanzibar by way of - Kagehyi?' - - "'That would be a fine job, sir, if we could do it.' - - "'Yet, if you think of it, Frank, this great river which - Livingstone first saw, and which broke his heart almost to turn - away from and leave a mystery, is a noble field too. Fancy, by and - by, after buying or building canoes, our floating down the river - day by day, either to the Nile or to some vast lake in the far - north, or to the Congo and the Atlantic Ocean! Think what a benefit - our journey will be to Africa. Steamers from the mouth of the Congo - to Lake Bemba, and to all the great rivers which run into it!' - - "'I say, sir, let us toss up; best two out of three to decide it.' - - "'Toss away. Here is a rupee.' - - "'Heads for the north and the Lualaba; tails for the south and - Katanga.' - - "Frank stood up, his face beaming. He tossed the rupee high up. The - coin dropped. - - "'What is it?' I asked. - - "'Tails, sir!' said Frank, with a face expressive of strong - disapproval. - - "'Toss again.' - - "He tossed again, and 'tails' was again announced--and six times - running 'tails' won. - - [Illustration: "HEADS FOR THE NORTH AND THE LUALABA; TAILS FOR THE - SOUTH AND KATANGA."] - - "We then tried straws--the short straws for the south, the long - straws for the River Lualaba--and again we were disappointed, for - Frank persisted in drawing out the short straws, and in leaving the - long straws in my hands. - - "'It is of no use, Frank. Well face our destiny, despite the rupee - and straws. With your help, my dear fellow, I will follow the - river.' - - "'Mr. Stanley, have no fear of me. I shall stand by you. The last - words of my dear old father were, "Stick by your master." And there - is my hand, sir; you shall never have cause to doubt me.' - - "'Good; I shall go on, then. I will finish this contract with - Tippu-Tib, for the Wangwana, on seeing him accompany us, will - perhaps be willing to follow me. We may also recruit others at - Nyangwé. And then, if the natives will allow peaceful passage - through their countries, so much the better. If not, our duty says, - "Go on."' - - [Illustration: A FOLLOWER OF TIPPU-TIB.] - - "The next night Tippu-Tib and his friends visited me again. The - contract was written, and signed by the respective parties and - their witnesses. The Wangwana chiefs were then called, and it was - announced to them that Tippu-Tib, with one hundred and forty guns - and seventy Wanyamwezi spearmen, would escort us a distance of - sixty camps, when, if we found the countries hostile to us, and no - hopes of meeting other traders, we should return with him to - Nyangwé. If we met Portuguese or Turkish traders, a portion of us - would continue the journey with them, and the remainder would - return with Tippu-Tib to Nyangwé. This announcement was received - with satisfaction, and the chiefs said that, owing to Tippu-Tib's - presence, no Arab at Nyangwé would dare to harbor a runaway from - the expedition. - - "Cowries and beads were then counted out and given that evening to - Tippu-Tib, as ration money for ten days from the day of his - departure from Mwana Mamba. - - "The next morning, being the 24th of October, the expedition left - Mwana Mamba in high spirits. The good effect of the contract with - Tippu-Tib had already brought us recruits, for on the road I - observed several strange faces of men who, on our arrival at the - first camp, Marimbu, eleven miles northwest from Mwana Mamba, - appeared before my tent, and craved to be permitted to follow us. - They received an advance in cloth, and their names were entered on - the muster-list of the expedition at the same rate of pay as the - other Wanyamwezi and Wangwana. - - "Through a fine rolling country, but depopulated, with every mile - marked by ruined villages, we marched in a northwesterly direction, - and on the 25th of October arrived at Kankumba, crossing the Mshama - stream by the way. - - "About one mile from our camp was the marshy valley of the Kunda - River, another tributary of the Lualaba, which rises in Uzimba; to - the east-northeast of us, about eight miles off, rose some hilly - cones, spurs of the Manyema hills; on the west stretched a rolling - grassy land extending to the Lualaba. - - "The grass (genus _Panicum_) of Manyema is like other things in - this prolific land, of gigantic proportions, and denser than the - richest field of corn. The stalks are an inch in diameter, and - about eight feet high. In fact, what I have called 'grassy land' is - more like a waving country planted with young bamboo. - - "Young Kalulu, who, since his recapture at the Uguha port on Lake - Tanganika, had been well behaved, and was in high favor again, met - with a serious and very remarkable accident at Kankumba. A chief, - called Mabruki the elder, had retained a cartridge in his Snider, - contrary to orders, and, leaving it carelessly on the stacked - goods, a hurrying Mgwana kicked it down with his foot, which caused - it to explode. Kalulu, who was reclining on his mat near a fire, - was wounded in no fewer than _eight_ places, the bullet passing - through the outer part of his lower legs, the upper part of his - thigh, and, glancing over his right ribs, through the muscles of - his left arm. - - "Though the accident had caused severe wounds, there was no danger, - and, by applying a little arnica, lint, and bandages, we soon - restored him to a hopeful view of his case. - - "On the morning of the 27th we descended from our camp at Kankumba - to the banks of the Kunda, a river about forty yards wide, and ten - feet deep at the ferry. The canoe-men were Wagenya, or Wenya, - fishermen under the protection of Sheik Abed bin Salim, alias - 'Tanganika.' - - [Illustration: A CANOE OF THE WENYA, OR WAGENYA, FISHERMEN.] - - "A rapid march of four miles brought us to the outskirts of - Nyangwé, where we were met by Abed bin Salim, an old man of - sixty-five years of age, Mohammed bin Sayid, a young Arab with a - remarkably long nose and small eyes, Sheik Abed's fundis or - elephant-hunters, and several Wangwana, all dressed in spotless - white shirts, crimson fezzes, and sandals. - - "Sheik Abed was pleased to monopolize me, by offering me a house in - his neighborhood. - - [Illustration: POT-POURRI. - - 1. Fish-spear. 2,3. Spears. 4,5,6. Arrow-heads. 7,8,9. Modes of - stringing bows. 10,11,12. Knives. 13,14. Walking-sticks. 15. Charm. - 16,17,18. Drums. 19. Iron gong. 20,21. Iron bells. 22. Musical - instrument. 23. Marimba. 24. Sticks for playing marimba. 25. - Rattle.] - - "The manner that we entered Nyangwé appeared, from subsequent - conversation, to have struck Sheik Abed, who, from his long - residence there, had witnessed the arrival and departure of very - many caravans. There was none of the usual firing of guns and wild - shouting and frenzied action; and the order and steadiness of - veterans, the close files of a column which tolerably well - understood by this time the difference between discipline and - lawlessness with its stragglers and slovenly laggards, made a - marked impression upon the old Arab. - - "Another thing that surprised him was the rapidity of the journey - from the Tanganika--three hundred and thirty-eight miles in - forty-three days, inclusive of all halts. He said that the usual - period occupied by Arabs was between three and four months. Yet the - members of the expedition were in admirable condition. They had - never enjoyed better health, and we had not one sick person; the - only one incapacitated for work was Kalulu, and he had been - accidentally wounded only the very night before. Between the - Tanganika and the Arab depot of Nyangwé neither Frank nor I had - suffered the slightest indisposition. - - [Illustration: VIEW IN NYANGWÉ.] - - "Nyangwé is the extreme westernmost locality inhabited by the Arab - traders from Zanzibar. It stands in east longitude 26° 16', south - latitude 4° 15', on the right or eastern side of the Lualaba, on - the verge of a high and reddish bank rising some forty feet above - the river, with clear open country north along the river for a - distance of three miles, east some ten miles, south over seventy - miles, or as far as the confluence of the Luama with the Lualaba. - The town called Nyangwé is divided into two sections. The northern - section has for its centre the quarters of Muini Dugumbi, the first - Arab arrival here (in 1868); and around his house are the - commodious quarters of his friends, their families and slaves--in - all, perhaps, three hundred houses. The southern section is - separated from its neighbor by a broad hollow, cultivated and sown - with rice for the Arabs. When the Lualaba rises to its full - amplitude, this hollow is flooded. The chief house of the southern - half of Nyangwé is the large and well-built clay _banda_ of Sheik - Abed bin Salim. In close neighborhood to this are the houses and - huts of those Arab Wangwana who prefer the company of Abed bin - Salim to Muini Dugumbi. - - "Between the two foreign chiefs of Nyangwé there is great jealousy. - Each endeavors to be recognized by the natives as being the most - powerful. Dugumbi is an east-coast trader of Sa'adani, a - half-caste, a vulgar, coarse-minded old man of probably seventy - years of age, with a negroid nose and a negroid mind. Sheik Abed is - a tall, thin old man, white-bearded, patriarchal in aspect, - narrow-minded, rather peevish and quick to take offence, a thorough - believer in witchcraft, and a fervid Muslim. - - "Close to Abed's elbows of late years has been the long-nosed young - Arab, Mohammed bin Sayid, superstitious beyond measure, of enormous - cunning and subtlety, a pertinacious beggar, of keen trading - instincts, but in all matters outside trade as simple as a child. - He offered, for a consideration and on condition that I would read - the Arabic Koran, to take me up and convey me to any part of Africa - within a day. By such unblushing falsehoods he has acquired - considerable influence over the mind of Sheik Abed. The latter told - me that he was half afraid of him, and that he believed Mohammed - was an extraordinary man. I asked the silly old sheik if he had - lent him any ivory. No; but he was constantly being asked for the - loan of ten frasilah (three hundred and fifty pounds) of ivory, for - which he was promised fifteen frasilah, or five hundred and - twenty-five pounds, within six months. - - "Mohammed, during the very first day of my arrival, sent one of his - favorite slaves to ask first for a little writing-paper, then for - needles and thread, and, a couple of hours afterwards, for white - pepper and a bar of soap; in the evening, for a pound or two of - sugar and a little tea, and, if I could spare it, he would be much - obliged for some coffee. The next day petitions, each very prettily - worded--for Mohammed is an accomplished reader of the Koran--came, - first for medicine, then for a couple of yards of red cloth, then - for a few yards of fine white sheeting, etc. I became quite - interested in him--for was he not a lovable, genial character, as - he sat there chewing betel-nut and tobacco to excess, twinkling his - little eyes with such malicious humor in them that, while talking - with him, I could not withdraw mine from watching their quick - flashes of cunning, and surveying the long, thin nose, with its - impenetrable mystery and classic lines? I fear Mohammed did not - love me, but my admiration was excessive for Mohammed. - - [Illustration: A BOWMAN.] - - "'La il Allah--il Allah!' he was heard to say to Sheik Abed, 'that - old white man Daoud (Livingstone) never gave much to any man; this - white man gives _nothing_.' Certainly not, Mohammed. My admiration - is great for thee, my friend; but thou liest so that I am - disgusted with thee, and thou hast such a sweet, plausible, - villainous look in thy face, I could punch thee heartily. - - "The next morning Muini (Lord) Dugumbi and following came--a gang - of veritable freebooters, chiefest of whom was the famous - Mtagamoyo--the butcher of women and fusillader of children. - Tippu-Tib, when I asked him, a few weeks after, what he thought of - Mtagamoyo, turned up his nose and said, 'He is brave, no doubt, but - he is a man whose heart is as big as the end of my little finger. - He has no feeling; he kills a native as though he were a - serpent--it matters not of what sex.' - - "This man is about forty-four years of age, of middle stature and - swarthy complexion, with a broad face, black beard just graying, - and thin-lipped. He spoke but little, and that little courteously. - He did not appear very formidable, but he might be deadly, - nevertheless. The Arabs of Nyangwé regard him as their best - fighter. - - "Dugumbi the patriarch, or, as he is called by the natives, - Molemba-Lemba, had the rollicking look of a prosperous and - coarse-minded old man, who was perfectly satisfied with the - material aspect of his condition. He deals in humor of the coarsest - kind--a vain, frivolous old fellow, ignorant of everything but the - art of collecting ivory, who has contrived to attach to himself a - host of nameless half-castes of inordinate pride, savage spirit, - and immeasurable greed. - - [Illustration: CAMP SCENE.] - - "The Arabs of Nyangwé, when they first heard of the arrival of - Tippu-Tib at Imbarri from the south, were anxious to count him as - their fellow-settler; but Tippu-Tib had no ambition to become the - chief citizen of a place which could boast of no better settlers - than vain old Dugumbi, the butcher Mtagamoyo, and silly Sheik Abed; - he therefore proceeded to Mwana Mamba's, where he found better - society with Mohammed bin Sayid, Sayid bin Sultan, Msé Ani, and - Sayid bin Mohammed el Mezrui. Sayid bin Sultan, in features, is a - rough copy of Abdul Aziz, late Sultan of Turkey. - - [Illustration: AN ESCORT OF GUNNERS AND SPEARMEN.] - - "One of the principal institutions at Nyangwé is the Kituka, or the - market, with the first of which I made acquaintance in 1871, in - Ujiji and Urundi. One day it is held in the open plaza in front of - Sheik Abed's house; on the next day in Dugumbi's section, half a - mile from the other; and on the third at the confluence of the - Kunda and the Lualaba; and so on in turn. - - "In this market everything becomes vendible and purchasable, from - an ordinary earthenware pot to a slave. From one thousand to three - thousand natives gather here from across the Lualaba and from the - Kunda banks, from the islands up the river, and from the villages - of the Mitamba, or forest. Nearly all are clad in the fabrics of - Manyema, fine grass-cloths, which are beautifully colored and very - durable. The articles sold here for cowries, beads, copper and iron - wire, and lambas, or squares of palm-cloth,[9] represent the - productions of Manyema. I went round the market and made out the - following list: - - [9] Made from the fibre of the _Raphia vinifera_ palm. - - Sweet potatoes. Eggs. Basket-work. - Yams. Fowls. Cassava bread. - Maize. Black pigs. Cassava flour. - Sesamum. Goats. Copper bracelets. - Millet. Sheep. Iron wire. - Beans. Parrots. Iron knobs. - Cucumbers. Palm-wine (Malofu). Hoes. - Melons Pombé (beer). Spears. - Cassava. Mussels and oysters from Bows and arrows. - Ground-nuts. the river. Hatchets. - Bananas. Fresh fish. Rattan-cane staves. - Sugar-cane. Dried fish. Stools. - Pepper (in berries). Whitebait. Crockery. - Vegetables for broths. Snails (dried). Powdered camwood. - Wild fruit. Salt. Grass cloths. - Palm-butter. White ants. Grass mats. - Oil-palm nuts. Grasshoppers. Fuel. - Pineapples. Tobacco (dried leaf). Ivory. - Honey. Pipes. Slaves. - Fishing-nets. - - "From this it will be perceived that the wants of Nyangwé are very - tolerably supplied. And how like any other market place it was! - with its noise and murmur of human voices. The same rivalry in - extolling their wares, the eager, quick action, the emphatic - gesture, the inquisitive look, the facial expressions of scorn and - triumph, anxiety, joy, plausibility, were all there. I discovered, - too, the surprising fact that the aborigines of Manyema possess - just the same inordinate ideas in respect to their wares as London, - Paris, and New York shopkeepers. Perhaps the Manyema people are not - so voluble, but they compensate for lack of language by gesture and - action, which are unspeakably eloquent. - - [Illustration: SLAVE OFFERED IN THE MARKET.] - - "During this month of the year the Lualaba reached its lowest - level. Our boat, the _Lady Alice_, after almost being rebuilt, was - launched in the river, and with sounding-line and sextant on board, - my crew and I, eager to test the boat on the gray-brown waters of - the great river, pushed off at 11 A.M., and rowed for an island - opposite, eight hundred yards distant, taking soundings as we went. - The soundings showed a mean depth of eighteen feet nine inches. - - [Illustration: NYANGWÉ HEADS.] - - "The easternmost island in mid-river is about one hundred yards - across at its widest part, and between it and another island is a - distance of from two hundred and fifty to three hundred yards. From - the second island to the low shore opposite Nyangwé is about two - hundred and fifty yards, and these channels have a slightly swifter - flow than the main river. The mean depth of the central channel was - twelve and a half feet, the westernmost eleven feet, and the entire - width of clear water flow was about thirteen hundred yards. During - the months of April, May, and June, and the early part of July, the - Lualaba is full, and overspreads the low lands westward for nearly - a mile and a half. The Lualaba then may be said to be from four - thousand to five thousand yards wide opposite Nyangwé. - - "The Arabs, wherever they settle throughout Africa, endeavor to - introduce the seeds of the vegetables and fruit-trees which grow in - their beloved island of Zanzibar. At Unyanyembé, therefore, they - have planted papaws, sweet limes, mangoes, lemons, custard-apples, - pomegranates, and have sown wheat and rice in abundance. At Ujiji, - also, they have papaws, sweet limes, pomegranates, lemons, wheat, - rice, and onions. At Nyangwé their fruit consists of pineapples, - papaws, and pomegranates. They have succeeded admirably in their - rice, both at Nyangwé, Kasongo's, and Mwana Mamba's. - - [Illustration: NYANGWÉ POTTERY.] - - "The Wagenya, as the Arabs call them, or Wenya--pronounced - Wainya--as they style themselves, are a remarkable tribe of - fishers, who inhabit both banks of the Lualaba, from the confluence - of the Kamalondo, on the left bank, down to the sixth cataract of - the Stanley Falls, and on the right bank, from the confluence of - the Luama down to Ubwiré, or Usongora Meno. - - "The Wenya were the aborigines of Nyangwé, when the advanced party - of Muini Dugumbi appeared on the scene--precursors of ruin, terror, - and depopulation, to the inhabitants of seven hundred square miles - of Manyema. Considering that the fertile open tract of country - between the Luama and Nyangwé was exceedingly populous, as the - ruins of scores of villages testify, sixty inhabitants to the - square mile would not be too great a proportion. The river border, - then, of Manyema, from the Luama to Nyangwé, may be said to have - had a population of forty-two thousand souls, of which there remain - probably only twenty thousand. The others have been deported, or - massacred, or have fled to the islands or emigrated down the river. - - "Tippu-Tib arrived at Nyangwé on the 2d of November, with a much - larger force than I anticipated, for he had nearly seven hundred - people with him. However, he explained that he was about to send - some three hundred of them to a country called Tata, which lies to - the east of Usongora Meno. - - [Illustration: MUINI DUJAMBI'S FOLLOWERS ATTACKING NYANGWÉ.] - - "On the 4th of November the members of the expedition were - mustered, and we ascertained that they numbered one hundred and - fifty-four, and that we possessed the following arms: Sniders, 29; - percussion-lock muskets, 32; Winchesters, 2; double-barrelled guns, - 2; revolvers, 10; axes, 68. Out of this number of sixty-four guns - only forty were borne by trustworthy men; the others were mere - pagazis, who would prefer becoming slaves to fighting for their - freedom and lives. At the same time they were valuable as - porters, and faithful to their allotted duties and their contract, - when not enticed away by outside influences or fear. The enormous - force that Tippu-Tib brought to Nyangwé quite encouraged them; and - when I asked them if they were ready to make good their promise to - me at Zanzibar and Muta Nzege Lake, they replied unanimously in the - affirmative. - - "'Then to-night, my friends,' said I, 'you will pack up your goods, - and to-morrow morning, at the first hour, let me see you in line - before my house ready to start.'" - - [Illustration: ANTELOPE OF THE NYANGWÉ REGION.] - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -DEPARTURE FROM NYANGWÉ.--THE DARK UNKNOWN.--IN THE PRIMEVAL FOREST.--AN -AFRICAN WILDERNESS.--SAVAGE FURNITURE.--TIPPU-TIB'S DEPENDANTS.--A -TOILSOME MARCH.--THE DENSE JUNGLE.--A DEMORALIZED COLUMN.--AFRICAN -WEAPONS.--A VILLAGE BLACKSMITH.--SKULLS OF SOKOS.--STANLEY'S LAST PAIR -OF SHOES.--SNAKES IN THE WAY.--THE TERRIBLE UNDER-GROWTH.--NATIVES OF -UREGGA AND THEIR CHARACTERISTICS.--SKULLS AS STREET ORNAMENTS.--AMONG -THE CANNIBALS.--ON THE RIVER'S BANK.--A SUDDEN INSPIRATION.--THE TRUE -ROAD TO THE SEA.--TIPPU-TIB'S DISCOURAGEMENTS.--ENCOUNTERING THE -NATIVES.--SUCCESSFUL NEGOTIATIONS.--THE EXPEDITION FERRIED OVER THE -RIVER.--CAMPING IN THE WENYA. - - -After a brief pause Fred continued to read from the book which lay -before him: - - "When, on the 5th of November, 1876, we had left Nyangwé behind us, - and had attended an elevated grassy ridge, we saw before us a - black, curving wall of forest, which, beginning from the river - bank, extended southeast, until hills and distance made it - indistinct. - - [Illustration: NEAR NYANGWÉ.] - - "I turned round to look at Nyangwé, which we were leaving. How - lovable and cheerful it appeared as it crowned the shoulder of one - of those lengthy grassy undulations overlooking the gray-brown - Livingstone! How bright and warm appeared the plain border of the - river as the sun shone over its wind-fanned waves of grass! Even - the hill-cones of Uzura and western Manyema ranked in line between - the forest and the grassy plain, which were now purpling and - becoming like cloud-forms, seemed to me to have a more friendly and - brighter appearance than the cold blackness of the dense forest - which rose before us to the north! - - "What a forbidding aspect had the Dark Unknown which confronted us! - I could not comprehend in the least what lay before us. Even the - few names which I had heard from the Arabs conveyed no definite - impression to my understanding. What were Tata, Meginna, Uregga, - Usongora Meno, and such uncouth names to me? They conveyed no idea, - and signified no object; they were barren names of either - countries, villages, or peoples, involved in darkness, savagery, - ignorance, and fable. - - "Yet it is our destiny to move on, whatever direction it may be - that that narrow winding path, running among tall grasses and down - into gullies and across small streams, takes us, until we penetrate - that cold, dark, still horizon before us, and emerge whithersoever - the narrow path will permit us--a distance of two hundred and forty - hours' travel. - - "The object of the desperate journey is to flash a torch of light - across the western half of the Dark Continent. For from Nyangwé - east, along the fourth parallel of south latitude, are some eight - hundred and thirty geographical miles, discovered, explored, and - surveyed; but westward to the Atlantic Ocean, along the same - latitude, are nine hundred and fifty-six miles--over nine hundred - geographical miles of which are absolutely unknown. Instead, - however, of striking direct west, we are about to travel north on - the eastern side of the river, to prevent it bending easterly to - Muta Nzege, or Nilewards, unknown to us, and to ascertain, if the - river really runs westward, what affluents flow to it from the - east; and to deduce from their size and volume some idea of the - extent of country which they drain, and the locality of their - sources. - - [Illustration: OPEN COUNTRY BEFORE REACHING THE FOREST.] - - "A thousand things may transpire to prevent the accomplishment of - our purpose: hunger, disease, and savage hostility may crush us; - perhaps, after all, the difficulties may daunt us, but our hopes - run high, and our purpose is lofty; then, in the name of God let us - set on, and as he pleases, so let him rule our destinies! - - "After journeying a distance of nine miles and a half northeast, - over a rolling plain covered with grass, we arrived at the villages - of Nakasimbi; Tippu-Tib, with seven hundred people--men, women and - children--occupying two villages, while our expedition occupied - another, overlooking a depression drained by a sluggish affluent of - the Kunda River. - - "Tippu-Tib is accompanied by about a dozen Arabs, young or - middle-aged, who have followed him in the hope of being rewarded by - him or myself at the end of a prosperous journey. - - "One of them is called Sheik Abdallah, alias Muini Kibwana--a name - adopted solely for Manyema. He is very ignorant, can neither read - nor write, but has a vast regard for those who have mastered the - secrets of literature, like Tippu-Tib. He is armed with a - flint-lock Brummagem musket, for which he has considerable - affection, because--according to him--it has saved his life many a - time. 'It never lies.' - - [Illustration: TIPPU-TIB'S BODY SERVANTS.] - - "The next is Muini Ibrahim, a Mrima (coast) man, of Arab descent, - though ruder and unpolished. Americans would have very little to do - with him, because the negroid evidences are so great that he would - be classed as a full-blooded negro. Yet he speaks Arabic well, and - is a fervid Muslim, but withal as superstitious as any primitive - African. He affects to be religious, and consequently is not - blood-thirsty, having some regard for the lives of human beings, - and for this receiving due praise from me. He is also armed with a - flint-lock musket. Sheik Abdallah and he are bosom friends, and - each possesses from thirty to forty slaves, likewise armed with - flint-locks. - - "Tippu-Tib's Arab dependants, who dip their hands in the same - porridge and meat-dish with the independent Sheik Abdallah and - Muini Ibrahim, consist of Muini Jumah (Master Friday), a nervous, - tall young man; Chéché (Weasel), a short, light-complexioned young - man of twenty-five years of age; Bwana Abed bin Jumah, the author - of the dwarf story, who has consented to act as our guide; Muini - Hamadi, a half-caste man of sturdy form and resolute appearance; - and six or seven others of no special individuality or importance, - except as so many dependants of Tippu-Tib. - - "The seven hundred people who follow our expedition at present - consist of two parties: one party composed of three hundred men, - women, and children, and commanded by Bwana Shokka (master of the - axe), the confidential man of Tippu-Tib's staff, of great strength, - tall and gaunt of person, and a renowned traveller; a man of great - tact, and worth a fortune to his master, as he is exceedingly cool, - speaks slowly, and by some rare gift conciliates the savages (when - not actually attacked on the road) and makes them friends. In a few - days he is to part from us, striking northeasterly for some dozen - marches, the utmost reach of Arab intercourse. - - [Illustration: JUMAH.] - - "The four hundred who are to accompany us for a distance of sixty - camps consist of about two hundred and fifty men--Arabs, - half-castes, Wangwana, one hundred Wanyamwezi, Ruga-Ruga--mostly - armed with spears and bows and arrows; others possess flint-locks. - One hundred men consist of Barua, Manyema, Bakusu, Ba-Samha, and - Utotera slaves; most of these slaves are armed with flint-locks, - the others with formidable spears and shields. There are also about - fifty youths, ranging from ten to eighteen years of age, being - trained by Tippu-Tib as gun-bearers, house-servants, scouts, cooks, - carpenters, house-builders, blacksmiths, and leaders of trading - parties. Meanwhile such young fellows are useful to him; they are - more trustworthy than adults, because they look up to him as their - father; and know that if they left him they would inevitably be - captured by a less humane man. The remainder of this motley force - consists of women, the wives of Tippu-Tib and his followers. - - "Two hundred and ten out of the four hundred I have pledged to - support until they shall return to Nyangwé, at the same rate of - ration currency that may be distributed to the members of our - expedition. - - "On the 6th of November we drew nearer to the dreaded black and - chill forest called Mitamba, and at last, bidding farewell to - sunshine and brightness, entered it. - - "We had made one mistake--we had not been up early enough. - Tippu-Tib's heterogeneous column of all ages was ahead of us, and - its want of order and compactness became a source of trouble to us - in the rear. - - "We, accustomed to rapid marching, had to stand in our places - minutes at a time waiting patiently for an advance of a few yards, - after which would come another halt, and another short advance, to - be again halted. And all this time the trees kept shedding their - dew upon us, like rain, in great round drops. Every leaf seemed - weeping. Down the boles and branches, creepers and vegetable cords, - the moisture trickled and fell on us. Overhead the wide-spreading - branches, in many interlaced strata, each branch heavy with broad, - thick leaves, absolutely shut out the daylight. We knew not whether - it was a sunshiny day or a dull, foggy, gloomy day; for we marched - in a feeble, solemn twilight, such as you may experience in - temperate climes an hour after sunset. The path soon became a - stiff, clayey paste, and at every step we splashed water over the - legs of those in front and on either side of us. - - "To our right and left, to the height of about twenty feet, towered - the undergrowth, the lower world of vegetation. The soil on which - this thrives is a dark-brown vegetable humus, the _débris_ of ages - of rotting leaves and fallen branches, a very forcing-bed of - vegetable life, which, constantly fed with moisture, illustrates in - an astonishing degree the prolific power of the warm, moist shades - of the tropics. - - "The stiff clay lying under this mould, being impervious, retains - the moisture which constantly supplies the millions of tiny roots - of herb, plant, and bush. The innumerable varieties of plants which - spring up with such marvellous rapidity, if exposed to the gale, - would soon be laid prostrate. But what rude blast can visit these - imprisoned shades? The tempest might roar without the leafy world, - but in its deep bosom there is absolute stillness. One has but to - tug at a sapling to know that the loose mould has no retentive - power, and that the sapling's roots have not penetrated the clays. - Even the giants of the forest have not penetrated very deeply, as - one may see by the half-exposed roots; they appear to retain their - upright positions more by breadth of base than by their grasp of - earth. - - "Every few minutes we found ourselves descending into ditches, with - streams trending towards the Kunda River, discharged out of leafy - depths of date-palms, Amoma, Carpodinæ, and Phrynia. Climbing out - from these streams, up their steep banks, our faces were brushed by - the broad leaves of the Amomum, or the wild banana, ficus of - various kinds, and climbing, crawling, obstructing lengths of wild - vines. - - [Illustration: THE EDGE OF THE FOREST.] - - "Naturally our temper was not improved by this new travelling. The - dew dropped and pattered on us incessantly until about 10 A.M. Our - clothes were heavily saturated with it. My white sun-helmet and - puggaree appeared to be weighted with lead. Being too heavy, and - having no use for it in the cool, dank shades, I handed it to my - gun-bearer, for my clothes, gaiters, and boots, which creaked - loudly with the water that had penetrated them, were sufficient - weight for me to move with. Added to this vexation was the - perspiration which exuded from every pore, for the atmosphere was - stifling. The steam from the hot earth could be seen ascending - upward and settling like a gray cloud above our heads. In the early - morning it had been so dense that we could scarcely distinguish the - various trees by their leafage. - - "At 3 P.M. we had reached Mpotira, in the district of Uzimba, - Manyema, twenty-one miles and a half from the Arab depot on the - Lualaba. - - "The poor boatmen did not arrive until evening, for the boat - sections--dreadful burdens--had to be driven like blunted ploughs - through the depths of foliage. The men complained bitterly of - fatigue, and for their sake we rested at Mpotira. - - [Illustration: WATER-BOTTLES.] - - "The nature of the next two days' experiences through the forest - may be gathered by reading the following portions of entries in my - journal: - - "'_November_ 8.--N. one half W., nine miles to district of Karindi, - or Kionga, Uregga. - - "'We have had a fearful time of it to-day in these woods, and Bwana - Shokka, who has visited this region before, declares with superior - pride that what we have experienced as yet is only a poor beginning - to the weeks upon weeks which we shall have to endure. Such - crawling, scrambling, tearing through the damp, dank jungles, and - such height and depth of woods!... Once we obtained a sidelong - view, from a tree on the crown of a hill, over the wild woods on - our left, which swept in irregular waves of branch and leaf down to - the valley of the Lualaba. Across the Lualaba, on the western bank, - we looked with wistful eyes on what appeared to be green, grassy - plains. Ah! what a contrast to that which we had to endure! It was - a wild and weird scene, this outlook we obtained of the top of the - leafy world!... It was so dark sometimes in the woods that I could - not see the words, recording notes of the track, which I pencilled - in my note-book. At 3.30 P.M. we arrived in camp, quite worn out - with the struggle through the intermeshed bush, and almost - suffocated with the heavy atmosphere. Oh, for a breath of mountain - air! - - "'_November_ 9, 1876.--N. one half W., ten and a half miles' march - to Kiussi, Uregga. - - [Illustration: STOOL OF UREGGA.] - - "'Another difficult day's work in the forest and jungle. Our - expedition is no longer the compact column which was my pride. It - is utterly demoralized. Every man scrambles as he best may through - the woods; the path, being over a clayey soil, is so slippery that - every muscle is employed to assist our progress. The toes grasp the - path, the head bears the load, the hand clears the obstructing - bush, the elbow puts aside the sapling. Yesterday the boatmen - complained so much that I organized all the chiefs into a pioneer - party, with axes, to clear the path. Of course we could not make a - wide road. There were many prostrate giants fallen across the - path, each with a mountain of twigs and branches, compelling us to - cut roads through the bush a long distance to get round them. My - boat-bearers are utterly wearied out.' - - [Illustration: UREGGA HOUSE.] - - [Illustration: SPOONS OF UREGGA.] - - "On the 10th we halted for a well-deserved rest. We were now in - Uregga--the forest country. Fenced round by their seldom-penetrated - woods, the Waregga have hitherto led lives as secluded as the - troops of chimpanzees in their forest. Their villages consist of - long rows of houses, all connected together in one block from fifty - yards to three hundred yards in length. The doorways are square - apertures in the walls, only two feet square, and cut at about - eighteen inches above the ground. Within the long block is divided - into several apartments for the respective families. Like the - Manyema houses, the roofs glisten as though smeared with coal-tar. - There are shelves for fuel, and netting for swinging their - crockery; into the roof are thrust the various small knick-knacks - which such families need--the pipe and bunch of tobacco-leaves, the - stick of dried snails, various mysterious compounds wrapped in - leaves of plants, pounded herbs, and what not. Besides these we - noted, as household treasures, the skins of goats, mongoose or - civet, weasel, wild cat, monkey, and leopard, shells of - land-snails, very large and prettily marked, and necklaces of the - _Achatina monetaria_. There is also quite a store of powdered - camwood, besides curiously carved bits of wood, supposed to be - talismans against harm, and handsome spoons, while over the door - are also horns of goats and small forest deer, and, occupying - conspicuous places, the gaudy war head-dress of feathers of the - gray-bodied and crimson-tailed parrots, the drum, and some heavy, - broad-bladed spears with ironwood staffs. - - [Illustration: UREGGA SPEAR.] - - [Illustration: CANE SETTEE.] - - "In the 'arts and sciences' of savage life, these exceedingly - primitive Africans, buried though they have been from all - intercourse with others, are superior in some points to many tribes - more favorably situated. For instance, until the day I arrived at - Kiussi village, I had not observed a settee. Yet in the depths of - this forest of Uregga every family possessed a neatly made - water-cane settee, which would seat comfortably three persons. - - [Illustration: BENCH.] - - "Another very useful article of furniture was the bench four or - five feet long, cut out of a single log of the white soft wood of - one of the Rubiaceæ, and significant as showing a more sociable - spirit than that which seems to govern Eastern Africans, among whom - the rule is, 'Every man to his own stool.' - - [Illustration: BACK-REST.] - - "Another noteworthy piece of furniture is the fork of a tree, cut - off where the branches begin to ramify. This, when trimmed and - peeled, is placed in an inverted position. The branches, sometimes - three, or even four, serve as legs of a singular back-rest. - - [Illustration: AN AFRICAN FEZ OF LEOPARD-SKIN.] - - "All the adult males wear skull-caps of goat or monkey-skin, except - the chief and elders, whose heads were covered with the - aristocratic leopard-skin, with the tail of the leopard hanging - down the back like a tassel. - - "The women were weighted with massive and bright iron rings. One of - them, who was probably a lady of importance, carried at least - twelve pounds of iron and five pounds of copper rings on her arms - and legs, besides a dozen necklaces of the indigenous _Achatina - monetaria_. - - "From Kiussi, through the same dense jungle and forest, with its - oppressive atmosphere and its soul-wearying impediments, we made a - journey of fourteen miles to Mirimo. It is a populous settlement, - and its people are good-natured. - - "For several days we struggled on through the terrible forest. The - Wangwana began to murmur loudly, while the boatmen, though assisted - by a dozen supernumeraries and preceded by a gang of pioneers, were - becoming perfectly savage; but the poor fellows had certainly cause - for discontent. I pitied them from my soul, yet I dared not show - too great a solicitude, lest they should have presumed upon it, and - requested me either to return to Nyangwé or to burn my boat. - - "Even Tippu-Tib, whom I anxiously watched, as on him I staked all - my hopes and prospects, murmured. The evil atmosphere created - sickness in the Arab escort, but all my people maintained their - health, if not their temper. The constant slush and reek which the - heavy dews caused in the forest had worn my shoes out, and half of - the march on the fifteenth of November I travelled with naked feet. - I had then to draw out of my store my last pair of shoes. Frank was - already using his last pair. Yet we were still in the very centre - of the continent. What should we do when all were gone? was a - question which we asked of each other often. - - "The faces of the people, Arabs, Wangwana, Wanyamwezi, and the - escort, were quite a study at the camp. All their courage was - oozing out, as day by day we plodded through the doleful, dreary - forest. We saw a python ten feet long, a green viper, and a - monstrous puff-adder on this march, besides scores of monkeys, of - the white-necked or glossy-black species, as also the small gray, - and the large howling baboons. We heard also the 'soko,' or - chimpanzee, and saw one 'nest' belonging to it in the fork of a - tall bombax. A lemur was also observed; its loud, harsh cries made - each night hideous. - - [Illustration: PRICKLES OF THE ACACIA PLANT.] - - "The path presented myriapedes, black and brown, six inches in - length; while beetles were innumerable, and armies of the - deep-brown 'hot-water' ants compelled us to be cautious how we - stepped. - - [Illustration: AN AFRICAN ANT.] - - "The difficulties of such travel as we had now commenced may be - imagined when a short march of six miles and a half occupied the - twenty-four men who were carrying the boat-sections an entire day, - and so fatigued them that we had to halt a day to recruit their - exhausted strength. - - "The terrible undergrowth that here engrossed all the space under - the shade of the pillared bombax and mastlike mvulé was a miracle - of vegetation. It consisted of ferns, spear-grass, water-cane, and - orchidaceous plants, mixed with wild vines, cable thicknesses of - the _Ficus elastica_, and a sprinkling of mimosas, acacias, - tamarinds; llianes, palms of various species, wild date, _Raphia - vinifera_, the elais, the fan, rattans, and a hundred other - varieties, all struggling for every inch of space, and swarming - upward with a luxuriance and density that only this extraordinary - hothouse atmosphere could nourish. We had certainly seen forests - before, but this scene was an epoch in our lives ever to be - remembered for its bitterness; the gloom enhanced the dismal misery - of our life; the slopping moisture, the unhealthy reeking - atmosphere, and the monotony of the scenes; nothing but the eternal - interlaced branches, the tall aspiring stems, rising from a tangle - through which we had to burrow and crawl like wild animals, on - hands and feet. - - "One morning, when we were encamped at a village called - Wane-Kirumbu, Tippu-Tib and the Arabs came to my hut. After a long - preamble, wherein he described the hardships of the march, - Tippu-Tib concluded by saying that he had come to announce his wish - that our contract should be dissolved! - - [Illustration: MARABOUTS, STORKS, AND PELICANS IN THE FOREST - LAKES.] - - "In a moment it flashed on my mind that a crisis had arrived. Was - the expedition to end here? I urged with all my powers the - necessity for keeping engagements so deliberately entered into. - - "For two hours I plied him with arguments, and at last, when I was - nearly exhausted, Tippu-Tib consented to accompany me twenty - marches farther, beginning from the camp we were then in. It was a - fortunate thing indeed for me that he agreed to this, as his return - so close to Nyangwé in the present dispirited condition of my - people's minds would have undoubtedly insured the destruction of - all my hopes. - - "The natives of Uregga are not liberally disposed. Wane-Kirumbu's - chief was the first who consented to exchange gifts with me. He - presented me with a chicken and some bananas, and I reciprocated - the gift with five cowries, which he accepted without a murmur. On - witnessing this pleasing and most uncommon trait of moderation, I - presented him with ten more, which appeared to him so bounteous - that he left my presence quite affected, indeed almost overcome by - his emotions of gratitude. - - "The men of these forest communities of Uregga, upon the decease of - their wives, put on symbols of mourning, namely, a thick daub of - charcoal paste over the face, which they retain for five - 'years'--two and a half European years. Widows also mourn for their - husbands a like period, with the same disfigurement of features, - but with the addition of bands of sere leaf of the banana round the - forehead. - - [Illustration: A FORGE AND SMITHY AT WANE-KIRUMBU, UREGGA.] - - At Wane-Kirumbu we found a large native forge and smithy, where - there were about a dozen smiths busily at work. The iron ore is - very pure. Here were the broad-bladed spears of southern Uregga, - and the equally broad knives of all sizes, from the small - waist-knife, an inch and a half in length, to the heavy Roman - swordlike cleaver. The bellows for the smelting-furnace are four in - number, double-handled, and manned by four men, who, by a quick - up-and-down motion, supply a powerful blast, the noise of which is - heard nearly half a mile from the scent. The furnace consists of - tamped clay, raised into a mound about four feet high. A hollow is - then excavated in it, two feet in diameter and two feet deep. From - the middle of the slope four apertures are excavated into the base - of the furnace, into which are fitted funnel-shaped earthenware - pipes to convey the blasts to the fire. At the base of the mound a - wide aperture for the hearth is excavated, penetrating below the - furnace. The hearth receives the dross and slag. - - "Close by stood piled up mat-sacks of charcoal, with a couple of - boys ready to supply the fuel, and about two yards off was a - smaller smithy, where the iron was shaped into hammers, axes, - war-hatchets, spears, knives, swords, wire, iron balls with spikes, - leglets, armlets, iron beads, etc. The art of the blacksmith is of - a high standard in these forests, considering the loneliness of the - inhabitants. The people have much traditional lore, and it appears - from the immunity which they have enjoyed in these dismal retreats - that from one generation to another something has been communicated - and learned, showing that even the jungle man is a progressive and - improvable animal. - - "On the 17th of November we crossed several lofty, hilly ridges, - and after a march of eleven miles northwesterly through the dank, - dripping forests, arrived at Kampunzu, in the district of Uvinza, - where dwell the true aborigines of the forest country. - - "Kampunzu village is about five hundred yards in length, formed of - one street thirty feet wide, flanked on each side by a straight, - symmetrical, and low block of houses, gable-roofed. Several small - villages in the neighborhood are of the same pattern. - - "The most singular feature of Kampunzu village were two rows of - skulls ten feet apart, running along the entire length of the - village, imbedded about two inches deep in the ground, the - 'cerebral hemispheres' uppermost, bleached, and glistening white - from weather. The skulls were one hundred and eighty-six in number - in this one village. To me they appeared to be human, though many - had an extraordinary projection of the posterior lobes, others of - the parietal bones, and the frontal bones were unusually low and - retreating; yet the sutures and the general aspect of the greatest - number of them were so similar to what I believed to be human that - it was almost with an indifferent air that I asked my chiefs and - Arabs what these skulls were. They replied, - 'sokos'--chimpanzees(?). - - "'Sokos from the forest?' - - "'Certainly,' they all replied. - - "'Bring the chief of Kampunzu to me immediately,' I said, much - interested now because of the wonderful reports of them that - Livingstone had given me, as also the natives of Manyema. - - "The chief of Kampunzu--a tall, strongly-built man of about - thirty-five years of age--appeared, and I asked, - - "'My friend, what are those things with which you adorn the street - of your village?' - - "He replied, 'Nyama' (meat). - - "'Nyama! Nyama of what?' - - "'Nyama of the forest.' - - "'Of the forest! What kind of thing is this Nyama of the forest?' - - "'It is about the size of this boy,' pointing to Mabruki, my - gun-bearer, who was four feet ten inches in height. 'He walks like - a man, and goes about with a stick, with which he beats the trees - in the forest, and makes hideous noises. The Nyama eat our bananas, - and we hunt them, kill them, and eat them. - - "'Are they good eating?' I asked. - - "He laughed, and replied that they were very good. - - "'Would you eat one if you had one now?' - - "'Indeed I would. Shall a man refuse meat?' - - "'Well, look here. I have one hundred cowries here. Take your men - and catch one, and bring him to me, alive or dead. I only want his - skin and head. You may have the meat.' - - "Kampunzu's chief, before he set out with his men, brought me a - portion of the skin of one, which probably covered the back. The - fur was dark gray, an inch long, with the points inclined to white; - a line of darker hair marked the spine. This, he assured me, was a - portion of the skin of a 'soko.' He also showed me a cap made out - of it, which I purchased. - - [Illustration: A YOUNG "SOKO" SITTING FOR HIS PORTRAIT.] - - "The chief returned about evening unsuccessful from the search. He - wished us to remain two or three days, that he might set traps for - the 'sokos,' as they would be sure to visit the bananas at night. - Not being able to wait so many days, I obtained for a few cowries - the skull of a male and another of a female. - - "These two skulls were safely brought to England and shown to - Professor Huxley, who passed judgment upon them as follows: - - [Illustration: HEAD OF THE GORILLA.] - - "'Of the two skulls submitted to me for examination, the one is - that of a man probably somewhat under thirty years of age, and the - other that of a woman over fifty. Nothing in these skulls justifies - the supposition that their original possessors differed in any - sensible degree from the ordinary African negro.' - - "Professor Huxley thus startles me with the proof that Kampunzu's - people were cannibals, for at least one half the number of skulls - seen by me bore the mark of a hatchet, which had been driven into - the head while the victims were alive. - - "In this village were also observed those carved benches cut out of - the Rubiaceæ already mentioned, backgammon trays, and stools carved - in the most admirable manner, all being decorated around the edges - of the seats with brass tacks and 'soko' teeth. - - [Illustration: BACKGAMMON TRAY.] - - "The women of Uregga wear only aprons, of bark or grass-cloth, - fastened by cords of palm fibre. The men wear skins of civet, or - monkey, in front and rear, the tails downward. It may have been - from a hasty glance of a rapidly disappearing form of one of these - people in the wild woods that native travellers in the lake regions - felt persuaded that they had seen 'men with tails.' - - "On the 19th a march of five miles through the forest west from - Kampunzu brought us to the Lualaba, in south latitude 3° 35', just - forty-one geographical miles north of the Arab depot Nyangwé. An - afternoon observation for longitude showed east longitude 25° 49'. - The name Lualaba terminates here. I mean to speak of it henceforth - as THE LIVINGSTONE. - - "The Livingstone was twelve hundred yards wide from bank to bank - opposite the landing-place of Kampunzu. As there were no people - dwelling within a mile of the right bank, we prepared to encamp. My - tent was pitched about thirty feet from the river, on a grassy - spot; Tippu-Tib and his Arabs were in the bushes; while the five - hundred and fifty people of whom the expedition consisted began to - prepare a site for their huts, by enlarging the open space around - the landing place. - - "While my breakfast (for noon) was cooking, and my tent was being - drawn taut and made trim, a mat was spread on a bit of short grass, - soft as an English lawn, a few yards from the water. Some sedgy - reeds obstructed my view, and as I wished while resting to watch - the river gliding by, I had them all cropped off short. - - "Frank and the Wangwana chiefs were putting the boat-sections - together in the rear of the camp; I was busy thinking, planning a - score of things--what time it would be best to cross the river, how - we should commence our acquaintance with the warlike tribes on the - left bank, what our future would be, how I should succeed in - conveying our large force across, and, in the event of a determined - resistance, what we should do, etc. - - "Gentle as a summer's dream, the brown wave of the great - Livingstone flowed by, broad and deep. On the opposing bank loomed - darkly against the sky another forest, similar to the one which had - harrowed our souls. I obtained from my seat a magnificent view of - the river, flanked by black forests, gliding along, with a serene - grandeur and an unspeakable majesty of silence about it that caused - my heart to yearn towards it. - - "Downward it flows to the unknown! to night-black clouds of mystery - and fable, mayhap past the lands of the anthropoids, the pigmies, - and the blanket-eared men of whom the gentle pagan king of Karagwé - spoke, by leagues upon leagues of unexplored lands, populous with - scores of tribes, of whom not a whisper has reached the people of - other continents; perhaps that fabulous being, the dread Macoco, of - whom Bartolomeo Diaz, Cada Mosto, and Dapper have written, is still - represented by one who inherits his ancient kingdom and power, and - surrounded by barbarous pomp. Something strange must surely lie in - the vast space occupied by total blankness on our maps between - Nyangwé and "Tuckey's Farthest!" - - "'I seek a road to connect these two points. We have labored - through the terrible forest, and manfully struggled through the - gloom. My people's hearts have become faint. I seek a road. Why, - here lies a broad watery avenue cleaving the Unknown to some sea, - like a path of light! Here are woods all around, sufficient for a - thousand fleets of canoes. Why not build them?' - - "I sprang up; told the drummer to call to muster. The people - responded wearily to the call. Frank and the chiefs appeared. The - Arabs and their escort came also, until a dense mass of expectant - faces surrounded me. I turned to them and said, - - [Illustration: IN FULL STYLE.] - - "Arabs! sons of Unyamwezi! children of Zanzibar! listen to words. - We have seen the Mitamba of Uregga. We have tasted its bitterness, - and have groaned in spirit. We seek a road. We seek something by - which we may travel. I seek a path that shall take me to the sea. I - have found it.' - - "Ah! ah--h!' and murmurs and inquiring looks at one another. - - "'Yes! El hamd ul Illah. I have found it. Regard this mighty river. - From the beginning it has flowed on thus, as you see it flow - to-day. It has flowed on in silence and darkness. Whither? To the - salt sea, as all rivers go! By that salt sea, on which the great - ships come and go, live my friends and your friends. Do they not? - - "Cries of 'Yes! yes!' - - "'Yet, my people, though this river is so great, so wide and deep, - no man has ever penetrated the distance lying between this spot on - which we stand and our white friends who live by the salt sea. Why? - Because it was left for us to do.' - - "'Ah, no! no! no!' and desponding shakes of the head. - - "'Yes,' I continued, raising my voice; 'I tell you, my friends, it - has been left from the beginning of time until to-day for us to do. - It is our work, and no other. It is the voice of Fate! The One God - has written that this year the river shall be known throughout its - length! We will have no more Mitambas; we will have no more panting - and groaning by the wayside; we will have no more hideous darkness; - we will take to the river, and keep to the river. To-day I shall - launch my boat on that stream, and it shall never leave it until I - finish my work. I swear it. - - "'Now, you Wangwana! You who have followed me through Turu, and - sailed around the great lakes with me; you, who have followed me, - like children following their father, through Unyoro, and down to - Ujiji, and as far as this wild, wild land, will you leave me here? - Shall I and my white brother go alone? Will you go back and tell my - friends that you left me in this wild spot, and cast me adrift to - die? Or will you, to whom I have been so kind, whom I love as I - would love my children, will you bind me, and take me back by - force? Speak, Arabs? Where are my young men, with hearts of lions? - Speak, Wangwana, and show me those who dare follow me?' - - "Uledi, the coxswain, leaped upward, and then sprang towards me, - and kneeling grasped my knees, and said, 'Look on me, my master! I - am one! I will follow you to death!' 'And I,' Kachéché cried; 'and - I, and I, and I,' shouted the boat's crew. - - "'It is well. I knew I had friends. You, then, who have cast your - lot with me stand on one side, and let me count you.' - - "There were thirty-eight! Ninety-five stood still, and said - nothing. - - "'I have enough. Even with you, my friends, I shall reach the sea. - But there is plenty of time. We have not yet made our canoes. We - have not yet parted with the Arabs. We have yet a long distance to - travel with Tippu-Tib. We may meet with good people, from whom we - may buy canoes. And by the time we part I am sure that the - ninety-five men now fearing to go with us will not leave their - brothers, and their master and his white brother, to go down the - river without them. Meantime I give you many thanks, and shall not - forget your names.' - - [Illustration: A TRIBUTARY RIVER.] - - "The assembly broke up, and each man proceeded about his special - duties. Tippu-Tib, Sheik Abdallah, and Muini Ibrahim sat on the - mat, and commenced to try to persuade me not to be so rash, and to - abandon all idea of descending the river. In my turn I requested - them not to speak like children, and, however they might think, not - to disclose their fears to the Wangwana; but rather to encourage - them to do their duty, and share the dangers with me, because the - responsibility was all my own, and the greatest share of danger - would be mine; and that I would be in front to direct and guide, - and save, and for my own sake as well as for their sake would be - prudent. - - "In reply, they spoke of cataracts and cannibals and warlike - tribes. They depreciated the spirit of the Wangwana, and declaimed - against men who were once slaves; refused to concede one virtue to - them, either of fidelity, courage, or gratitude, and predicted that - the end would be death to all. - - [Illustration: WANGWANA WOMEN.] - - "'Speak no more, Tippu-Tib. You who have travelled all your life - among slaves have not yet learned that there lies something good in - the heart of every man that God made. Men were not made all bad, as - you say. For God is good, and he made all men. I have studied my - people; I know them and their ways. It will be my task to draw the - good out of them while they are with me; and the only way to do it - is to be good to them, for good produces good. As you value my - friendship, and hope to receive money from me, be silent. Speak not - a word of fear to my people, and when we part I shall make known my - name to you. To you, and to all who are my friends, I shall be "the - white man with the open hand." But if not, then I shall be - "Kipara-moto."' - - "While I had been speaking, a small canoe with two men was seen - advancing from the opposite bank. One of the interpreters was - called, and told to speak to them quietly, and to ask them to bring - canoes to take us across. - - "We had a long parley, but it resulted in nothing. The natives - refused to ferry us over the river at any price, and on the way - back they set up a war-cry which resounded through the forest, and - was repeated from many points. Meantime my people were putting the - _Lady Alice_ in readiness, and by the time I had finished my - breakfast the _Lady Alice_ was in the river, and a loud shout of - applause greeted her appearance on the water. - - "The boat's crew, with Uledi as coxswain, and Tippu-Tib, Sheik - Abdallah, Muini Ibrahim, Bwana Abed (the guide), Muni Jumah, and - two interpreters and myself as passengers, entered the boat. We - were rowed up the river for half an hour, and then struck across to - a small island in mid-stream. With the aid of a glass I examined - the shores, which from our camp appeared to be dense forest. We saw - that there were about thirty canoes tied to the bank, and among the - trees I detected several houses. The bank was crowded with human - beings, who were observing our movements. - - "We re-entered our boat and pulled straight across to the left - bank, then floated down slowly with the current, meantime - instructing the interpreters as to what they should say to the - Wenya. - - "When we came opposite, an interpreter requested them to take a - look at the white man who had come to visit their country, who - wished to make friends with them, who would give them abundance of - shells, and allow none of his men to appropriate a single banana, - or do violence to a single soul; not a leaf would be taken, nor a - twig burned, without being paid for. - - "The natives, gazing curiously at me, promised, after a - consultation, that if we made blood-brotherhood with them there - should be no trouble, and that for this purpose the white chief, - accompanied by ten men, should proceed early next morning to the - island, where he would be met by the chief of the Wenya and his ten - men; and that, after the ceremony, all the canoes should cross and - assist to carry our people to their country. - - "After thanking them, we returned to camp, highly elated with our - success. At 4 A.M., however, the boat secretly conveyed twenty men - with Kachéché, who had orders to hide in the brushwood, and, - returning to camp at 7 A.M., conveyed Frank and ten men, who were - to perform the ceremony of brotherhood, to the island. On its - return I entered the boat, and was rowed a short way up stream - along the right bank, so that, in case of treachery, I might be - able to reach the island within four minutes to lend assistance. - - [Illustration: SOME OF THE PEOPLE ON SHORE.] - - "About 9 A.M. six canoes full of men were seen to paddle to the - island. We saw them arrive before it, and finally draw near. - Earnestly and anxiously I gazed through my glass at every movement. - Other canoes were seen advancing to the island. A few seconds after - the latest arrivals had appeared on the scene, I saw great - animation, and almost at once those curious cries came pealing up - the river. There were animated shouts, and a swaying of bodies, - and, unable to wait longer, we dashed towards the island, and the - natives on seeing us approach paddled quickly to their - landing-place. - - "'Well, Frank, what was the matter?' I asked. - - "'I never saw such wretches in my life, sir. When that last batch - of canoes came, their behavior, which was decent before, changed. - They surrounded us. Half of them remained in the canoes; those on - land began to abuse us violently, handling their spears, and acting - so furiously that if we had not risen with our guns ready they - would have speared us as we were sitting down waiting to begin the - ceremony. But Kachéché, seeing their wild behavior and menacing - gestures, advanced quietly from the brushwood with his men, on - seeing which they ran to their canoes, where they held their spears - ready to launch when you came.' - - "'Well, no harm has been done yet,' I replied; 'so rest where you - are, while I take Kachéché and his men across to their side, where - a camp will be formed; because, if we delay to-day crossing, we - shall have half of the people starving by to-morrow morning.' - - "After embarking Kachéché, we steered for a point in the woods - above the native village, and, landing thirty men with axes, - proceeded to form a small camp, which might serve as a nucleus - until we should be enabled to transport the expedition. We then - floated down river opposite the village, and, with the aid of an - interpreter, explained to them that as we had already landed thirty - men in their country, it would be far better that they should - assist us in the ferriage, for which they might feel assured that - they would be well paid. At the same time I tossed a small bag of - beads to them. In a few minutes they consented, and six canoes, - with two men in each, accompanied us to camp. The six canoes and - the boat conveyed eighty people safely to the left bank; and then - other canoes, animated by the good understanding that seemed to - prevail between us, advanced to assist, and by night every soul - associated with our expedition was rejoicing by genial camp-fires - in the villages of the Wenya." - -It was now time to adjourn the meeting of the _Eider_'s Geographical -Society. Fred briefly announced that the reading would be continued in -the evening, and immediately the little party proceeded to a promenade -on deck, where they discussed the narrative to which they had just -listened, and wondered what happened next. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -HOW STANLEY OBTAINED CANOES.--THE PEOPLE OF UKUSU.--THEIR HOSTILITY.--A -FIGHT AND TERMS OF PEACE.--SEPARATION FROM TIPPU-TIB.--DEPARTURE -"TOWARDS THE UNKNOWN."--A SAD FAREWELL.--AMONG THE VINYA-NARA.--THE -NATIVES AT STANLEY FALLS.--A FIERCE BATTLE.--DEFENDING A -STOCKADE.--BOATS CAPSIZED IN A TEMPEST AND MEN DROWNED.--BEGINNING OF -THE NEW YEAR.--A BATTLE ON THE WATER.--MONSTER CANOES.--AMONG THE MWANA -NTABA.--THE NATIVES ARE DEFEATED.--FIRST CATARACT OF STANLEY -FALLS.--CAMPED IN A FORTIFICATION. - - -"Mr. Stanley's hope of obtaining canoes was soon realized," said Fred, -when the party assembled in the evening, "but he suffered greatly before -he secured them. Small-pox and other diseases carried off many of his -people; the natives at first refused all offers of peace, and would sell -no provisions. At the rapids of Ukassa, near the mouth of the Ruiki -River, a fleet of canoes came to attack him, but the savages retreated -when they found the strangers were ready to fight. - -[Illustration: CANOES IN THE MOUTH OF THE RUIKI RIVER.] - -"He found some old and abandoned canoes which his men repaired; and with -these canoes and the _Lady Alice_ he transported a part of his force, -while the remainder went by land. The banks of the river were densely -peopled, and the houses in the villages showed a considerable advance -towards civilization. Many of the villages were built in regular -streets, and some of these streets were fully two miles long. From a -native, who was made prisoner, Mr. Stanley learned that he was in the -district called Ukusu, and that the people would not permit strangers to -pass along the river. The river was about seventeen hundred yards wide, -and thickly studded in many places with islands densely covered with -trees and undergrowth. - -[Illustration: WAR-HATCHET OF UKUSU.] - -"The houses were of various patterns, but all of a single story in -height. Most of them were mere double cages, made very elegantly of the -panicum grass cane, seven feet long by five feet wide and six feet high, -separated, as regards the main building, but connected by the roof, so -that the central apartments were common to both cages, and in these the -families meet and perform their household duties, or receive their -friends for social chat. Near each village was the burial-place or vault -of its preceding kings, roofed over, with the leaves of the _Phrynium -ramosissimum_, which appears to be as useful a plant for many reasons as -the banana to the Waganda. - -[Illustration: STOOL OF UKUSU.] - -"At one of the villages a large number of natives attacked the -expedition, which had taken position and built a stockade close to the -river's bank. Thousands of poisoned arrows came whizzing into the -stockade, and hundreds of spears were thrown, but the rifles of the -expedition held the savages at bay. When the day ended, the negroes -retired to the opposite side of the river, where they tied their canoes -to the bank. During the night Mr. Stanley and Frank Pocock crossed the -river with the _Lady Alice_ and their large canoe; one by one the canoes -of the natives were silently secured and taken away to the number of -thirty-eight, and when the natives woke in the morning, they were -probably never more astonished in their lives. - -[Illustration: STEW-POT OF THE WAHIKA.] - -"A peace was negotiated, and terms of blood-brotherhood were made. Mr. -Stanley returned fifteen of the canoes, and retained twenty-three as an -equivalent for the losses he had sustained in the attack. He had a -sufficient number of boats now for his purpose. - -[Illustration: ENCOUNTER WITH A GORILLA.] - -"Tippu-Tib announced that he would go no farther. Mr. Stanley released -him from his engagement, on condition that he would use his influence -with the members of the expedition to remain with it. A satisfactory -settlement was made with Tippu-Tib and his people; farewell feasts were -given, and everything seemed favorable for the future. Provisions for -twenty days were prepared, the men were assigned to the boats, and, to -make the fleet as much like a civilized one as possible, each boat -received a name. Here is the list: - - 1. The exploring boat, Lady Alice. 13. London Town. - 2. Ocean, commanded by Frank. 14. America. - 3. Livingstone. 15. Hart. - 4. Stanley. 16. Daphne. - 5. Telegraph. 17. Lynx. - 6. Herald. 18. Nymph. - 7. Jason. 19. Vulture. - 8. Argo. 20. Shark. - 9. Penguin. 21. Arab. - 10. Wolverine. 22. Mirambo. - 11. Fawn. 23. Mtesa. - 12. Glasgow (flag-ship, commanded by Manwa Sera). - -[Illustration: A HOUSE OF TWO ROOMS.] - -"And now," said Fred, "we will hear Mr. Stanley's story of how they set -out on their adventurous voyage: - - "The crisis drew nigh when the 28th of December dawned. A gray mist - hung over the river, so dense that we could not see even the palmy - banks on which Vinya-Njara was situated. It would have been - suicidal to begin our journey on such a gloomy morning. The people - appeared as cheerless and dismal as the foggy day. We cooked our - breakfasts in order to see if, by the time we had fortified the - soul by satisfying the cravings of the stomach, the river and its - shores might not have resumed their usual beautiful outlines, and - their striking contrasts of light and shadow. - - [Illustration: CANOE SCOOP.] - - "Slowly the breeze wafted the dull and heavy mists away until the - sun appeared, and bit by bit the luxuriantly wooded banks rose up - solemn and sad. Finally the gray river was seen, and at 9 A.M. its - face gleamed with the brightness of a mirror. - - [Illustration: SCOOPS.] - - "'Embark, my friends! Let us at once away! and a happy voyage to - us.' - - [Illustration: "TOWARD THE UNKNOWN."] - - "The drum and trumpet proclaimed to Tippu-Tib's expectant ears that - we were ascending the river. In half an hour we were pulling across - to the left bank, and when we reached it, a mile above Vinya-Njara, - we rested on our oars. The strong brown current soon bore us down - within hearing of a deep and melodious diapason of musical voices - chanting the farewell song. How beautiful it sounded to us as we - approached them! The dense jungle and forest seemed to be - penetrated with the vocal notes, and the river to bear them - tenderly towards us. Louder the sad notes swelled on our ears, full - of a pathetic and mournful meaning. With bated breath we listened - to the rich music which spoke to us unmistakably of parting, of - sundered friendship, a long, perhaps an eternal, farewell. We came - in view of them, as, ranged along the bank in picturesque costume, - the sons of Unyamwezi sang their last song. We waved our hands to - them. Our hearts were so full of grief that we could not speak. - Steadily the brown flood bore us by, and fainter and fainter came - the notes down the water, till finally they died away, leaving us - all alone on the great river. - - [Illustration: COIL OF PLAITED ROPE, CENTRAL AFRICA.] - - "But, looking up, I saw the gleaming portal to the Unknown: wide - open to us and away down, for miles and miles, the river lay - stretched with all the fascination of its mystery. I stood up and - looked at the people. How few they appeared to dare the region of - fable and darkness! They were nearly all sobbing. They were leaning - forward, bowed, as it seemed, with grief and heavy hearts. - - "'Sons of Zanzibar,' I shouted, 'the Arabs and the Wanyemwezi are - looking at you. They are now telling one another what brave fellows - you are. Lift up your heads and be men. What is there to fear? All - the world is smiling with joy. Here we are all together like one - family, with hearts united, all strong with the purpose to reach - our homes. See this river; it is the road to Zanzibar. When saw you - a road so wide? When did you journey along a path like this? Strike - your paddles deep, cry out Bismillah! and let us forward.' - - "Poor fellows! with what wan smiles they responded to my words! How - feebly they paddled! But the strong flood was itself bearing us - along, and the Vinya-Njara villages were fast receding into - distance. - - "Then I urged my boat's crew, knowing that thus we should tempt the - canoes to quicker pace. Three or four times Uledi, the coxswain, - gallantly attempted to sing, in order to invite a cheery chorus, - but his voice soon died into such piteous hoarseness that the very - ludicrousness of the tones caused his young friends to smile even - in the midst of their grief. - - "We knew that the Vinya-Njara district was populous from the - numbers of natives that fought with us by land and water, but we - had no conception that it was so thickly populated as the long row - of villages we now saw indicated. I counted fourteen separate - villages, each with its respective growth of elais palm and banana, - and each separated from the other by thick bush. - - "Every three or four miles there were small villages visible on - either bank, but we met with no disturbance, fortunately. At 5 P.M. - we made for a small village called Kali-Karero, and camped there, - the natives having retired peacefully. In half an hour they - returned, and the ceremony of brotherhood was entered upon, which - insured a peaceful night. The inhabitants of Rukura, opposite us, - also approached us with confidence, and an interchange of small - gifts served us as a healthy augury for the future. - - "On the morning of the 29th, accompanied by a couple of natives in - a small fishing-canoe, we descended the river along the left bank, - and, after about four miles, arrived at the confluence of the - Kasuku, a dark-water stream of a hundred yards' width at the mouth. - Opposite the mouth, at the southern end of Kaimba--a long wooded - island on the right bank, and a little above the confluence--stands - the important village of Kisanga-Sanga. - - "Below Kaimba Island and its neighbor, the Livingstone assumes a - breadth of eighteen hundred yards. The banks are very populous: the - villages of the left bank comprise the district of Luavala. We - thought for some time we should be permitted to pass by quietly, - but soon the great wooden drums, hollowed out of huge trees, - thundered the signal along the river that there were strangers. In - order to lessen all chances of a rupture between us, we sheered off - to the middle of the river, and quietly lay on our paddles. But - from both banks at once, in fierce concert, the natives, with their - heads gayly feathered, and armed with broad black wooden shields - and long spears, dashed out towards us. - - [Illustration: WAR-DRUMS OF THE TRIBES OF THE UPPER LIVINGSTONE.] - - "Tippu-Tib before our departure had hired to me two young men of - Ukusu--cannibals--as interpreters. These were now instructed to cry - out the word 'Sennenneh' ('Peace!'), and to say that we were - friends. - - "But they would not reply to our greeting, and in a bold, - peremptory manner told us to return. - - "'But we are doing no harm, friends. It is the river that takes us - down, and the river will not stop, or go back.' - - "'This is our river.' - - "'Good. Tell it to take us back, and we will go.' - - "'If you do not go back, we will fight you.' - - "'No, don't; we are friends.' - - "'We don't want you for our friends; we will eat you.' - - "But we persisted in talking to them, and, as their curiosity was - so great, they persisted in listening, and the consequence was that - the current conveyed us near to the right bank; and in such near - neighborhood to another district that our discourteous escort had - to think of themselves, and began to skurry hastily up river, - leaving us unattacked. - - "The villages on the right bank also maintained a tremendous - drumming and blowing of war-horns, and their wild men hurried up - with menace towards us, urging their sharp-prowed canoes so swiftly - that they seemed to skim over the water like flying fish. Unlike - the Luavala villagers, they did not wait to be addressed, but as - soon as they came within fifty or sixty yards they shot out their - spears, crying out, 'Meat! meat! Ah! ha! We shall have plenty of - meat!' - - "There was a fat-bodied wretch in a canoe, whom I allowed to crawl - within spear-throw of me; who, while he swayed the spear with a - vigor far from assuring to one who stood within reach of it, leered - with such a clever hideousness of feature that I felt, if only - within arm's-length of him, I could have bestowed upon him a - hearty thump on the back, and cried out applaudingly, 'Bravo, old - boy! You do it capitally!' - - [Illustration: VILLAGE SCENE.] - - "Yet not being able to reach him, I was rapidly being fascinated by - him. The rapid movements of the swaying spear, the steady, - wide-mouthed grin, the big square teeth, the head poised on one - side with the confident pose of a practised spear-thrower, the - short brow and square face, hair short and thick. Shall I ever - forget him? It appeared to me as if the spear partook of the same - cruel, inexorable look as the grinning savage. Finally, I saw him - draw his right arm back, and his body incline backward, with still - that same grin on his face, and I felt myself begin to count, one, - two, three, four--and _whiz_! The spear flew over my back, and - hissed as it pierced the water. The spell was broken. - - "It was only five minutes' work clearing the river. We picked up - several shields, and I gave orders that all shields should be - henceforth religiously preserved, for the idea had entered my head - that they would answer capitally as bulwarks for our canoes. An - hour after this we passed close to the confluence of the Urindi--a - stream four hundred yards in width at the mouth, and deep with - water of a light color, and tolerably clear. - - "We continued down river along the right bank, and at 4 P.M. camped - in a dense low jungle, the haunt of the hippopotamus and elephant - during the dry season. When the river is in flood a much larger - tract must be under water. - - "The traveller's first duty in lands infested by lions and leopards - is to build a safe corral, kraal, or boma, for himself, his oxen, - horses, servants; and in lands infested like Usongora Meno and - Kasera--wherein we now were--by human lions and leopards, the duty - became still more imperative. We drew our canoes, therefore, - half-way upon the banks, and our camp was in the midst of an - impenetrable jungle. - - "At dawn we embarked, and descended about two miles, close to the - right bank, when, lo! the broad mouth of the magnificent Lowwa, or - Rowwa, River burst upon the view. It was over a thousand yards - wide, and its course by compass was from the southeast, or - east-southeast true. A sudden rain-storm compelled us to camp on - the north bank, and here we found ourselves under the shadows of - the primeval forest. - - [Illustration: MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS AND MODE OF PLAYING.] - - "About ten o'clock, as we cowered in most miserable condition under - the rude, leafy shelters we had hastily thrown up, the people of - the wooded bluffs of Iryamba, opposite the Lowwa confluence, came - over to see what strange beings were those who had preferred the - secrecy of the uninhabited grove to their own loud, roystering - society. Stock-still we sat cowering in our leafy coverts, but the - mild, reproachful voice of Katembo, our cannibal interpreter, was - heard laboring in the interests of peace, brotherhood, and - good-will. The rain pattered so incessantly that I could from my - position only faintly hear Katembo's voice pleading, earnestly yet - mildly, with his unsophisticated brothers of Iryamba, but I felt - convinced from the angelic tones that they would act as a sedative - on any living creature except a rhinoceros or a crocodile. The - long-drawn bleating sound of the word 'Sen-nen-neh,' which I heard - frequently uttered by Katembo, I studied until I became quite as - proficient in it as he himself. - - "Peace was finally made between Katembo on the one hand and the - canoe-men of Iryamba on the other, and they drew near to gaze at - their leisure at one of the sallow white men, who with great hollow - eyes peered from under the visor of his cap, on the well-fed, - bronze-skinned aborigines. - - "At 2 P.M. we left our camp in the forest of Luru, and pulled - across to the Iryamba side of the Livingstone. But as soon as the - rain had ceased a strong breeze had risen, which, when we were in - mid-river, increased to a tempest from the north, and created - great, heavy waves, which caused the foundering of two of our - canoes, the drowning of two of our men, Farjalla Baraka, and Nasib, - and the loss of four muskets and one sack of beads. Half a dozen - other canoes were in great danger for a time, but no more fatal - accidents occurred. - - "I feared lest this disaster might cause the people to rebel and - compel me to return, for it had shocked them greatly; but I was - cheered; to hear them remark that the sudden loss of their comrades - had been ordained by fate, and that no precautions would have - availed to save them. But though omens and auguries were delivered - by the pessimists among us, not one hazarded aloud the belief that - we ought to relinquish our projects; yet they were all evidently - cowed by our sudden misfortune. - - "On the 31st, the last day of the year 1876, we resumed our voyage. - The morning was beautiful, the sky blue and clear, the tall forest - still and dark, the river flowed without a ripple, like a solid - mass of polished silver. Everything promised fair. But from the - island below, the confluence of the Lowwa and the Livingstone, the - warning drum sounded loudly over the river, and other drums soon - echoed the dull boom. - - "'Keep together, my men,' I cried, 'there may be hot work for us - below.' - - "We resolved to keep in mid-stream, because both the island and the - left bank appeared to be extremely populous, and to paddle slowly - and steadily down river. The canoes of the natives darted from - either shore, and there seemed to be every disposition made for a - furious attack; but as we drew near we shouted out to them, - 'Friends, Sennenneh! Keep away from us. We shall not hurt you; but - don't lift your spears, or we'll fight.' - - "There was a moment's hesitation, wherein spears were clashed - against shields, and some fierce words uttered, but finally the - canoes drew back, and as we continued to paddle, the river with its - stiff current soon bore us down rapidly past the populous district - and island. - - "At noon we came to the southern end of an uninhabited low and - sandy island, where I ascertained the latitude to be south 1° 20' - 3". The altitude, above sea level, of the river at this place is - 1729 feet. After descending some five miles we formed our camp in - the woods on the right bank. - - "The beginning of the new year, 1877, commenced, the first three - hours after sunrise, with a delicious journey past an uninhabited - tract, when my mind, wearied with daily solicitude, found rejoice - in dwelling musingly upon the deep slumber of nature. Outwardly the - forest was all beauty, solemn peace, and soft, dreamy rest, - tempting one to sentiment and mild melancholy. Though it was in - vain to endeavor to penetrate with our eyes into the dense wall of - forest--black and impervious to the sunlight which almost seemed - to burn up the river--what could restrain the imagination? These - were my calm hours; periods when my heart, oblivious of the dark - and evil days we had passed, resolutely closed itself against all - dismal forebodings, and revelled in the exquisite stillness of the - uninhabited wilderness. - - [Illustration: GORILLAS AND NEST.] - - "But soon after nine o'clock we discovered we were approaching - settlements, both on islands and on the banks, and again the hoarse - war-drums awakened the echoes of the forest, boomed along the - river, and quickened our pulses. - - "We descend in close order as before, and steadily pursue our way. - But, heading us off, about ten long canoes dart out from the shadow - of palmy banks, and the wild crews begin to chant their war-songs, - and now and then, in attitudes of bravado and defiance, raise - spears and shields aloft and bring them downward with sounding - clash. - - "As we approached them we shouted out 'Sen-nen-neh'--our Sesame and - Shibboleth, our watchword and countersign. But they would not - respond. - - "Hitherto they had called us Wasambye; we were now called Wajiwa - (people of the sun?); our guns were called Katadzi, while before - they were styled Kibongeh, or lightning. Katembo was implored to be - eloquent, mild of voice, pacific in gesture. - - "They replied, 'We shall eat Wajiwa meat to-day. Oho, we shall eat - Wajiwa meat!' and then an old chief gave some word of command, and - at once one hundred paddles beat the water into foam, and the - canoes darted at us. But the contest was short, and we were - permitted to pursue our voyage. - - [Illustration: NATIVE PIPE.] - - "Farther down we met some friendly natives, who told us that we - should soon come to the territory of the Mwana Ntaba, with whom we - should have to fight; that the Mwana Ntaba people occupied the - country as far as the falls; that below the falls were several - islands inhabited by the Baswa, who were friends of the Mwana - Ntaba. It would be impossible, they said, to go over the falls, as - the river swept against a hill, and rolled over it, and tumbled - down, down, down, with whirl and uproar, and we should inevitably - get lost. It would be far better, they said, for us to return. - - "About two o'clock, in the afternoon of January 4th, as we were - proceeding quietly, our vessels being only about thirty yards from - the right bank, eight men with shields darted into view from behind - a bush-clump, and, shouting their war-cries, launched their wooden - spears. Some of them struck and dinted the boat deeply, others flew - over it. We shoved off instantly, and getting into mid-stream found - that we had heedlessly exposed ourselves to the watchful tribe of - Mwana Ntaba, who immediately sounded their great drums, and - prepared their numerous canoes for battle. - - [Illustration: SCENE ON A TRIBUTARY OF THE GREAT RIVER--LAUNCHING A - CANOE.] - - "Up to this time we had met with no canoes over fifty feet long, - but those which now issued from the banks and the shelter of bends - in the banks were monstrous. The natives were in full war-paint, - one half of their bodies being daubed white, the other half red, - with broad black bars, the _tout ensemble_ being unique and - diabolical. There was a crocodilian aspect about these lengthy - vessels which was far from assuring, while the fighting-men, - standing up alternately with the paddlers, appeared to be animated - with a most ferocious cat-o'-mountain spirit. Horn-blasts, which - reverberated from bank to bank, sonorous drums, and a chorus of - loud yells, lent a fierce _éclat_ to the fight in which we were now - about to be engaged. - - [Illustration: MWANA NTABA CANOE (THE "CROCODILE").] - - "We formed line, and having arranged all our shields as bulwarks - for the non-combatants, awaited the first onset with apparent - calmness. One of the largest canoes, which we afterwards found to - be eighty-five feet three inches in length, rashly made the mistake - of singling out the _Lady Alice_ for its victim; but we reserved - our fire until it was within fifty feet of us, and after pouring a - volley into the crew charged the canoe with the boat, and the crew, - unable to turn her round sufficiently soon to escape, precipitated - themselves into the river and swam to their friends, while we made - ourselves masters of the _Great Eastern_ of the Livingstone. We - soon exchanged two of our smaller canoes and manned the monster - with thirty men, and resumed our journey in line, the boat in front - acting as a guide. This early disaster to the Mwana Ntaba caused - them to hurry down river, blowing their horns, and alarming with - their drums both shores of the river, until about forty canoes were - seen furiously dashing down stream, no doubt bent on mischief. - - "At 4 P.M. we came opposite a river about two hundred yards wide, - which I have called the Leopold River, in honor of His Majesty - Leopold II., King of the Belgians, and which the natives called - either the Kankora, Mikonju, or Munduku. - - "Soon after passing by the confluence, the Livingstone, which above - had been two thousand five hundred yards wide, perceptibly - contracted, and turned sharply to the east-northeast, because of a - hill which rose on the left bank about three hundred feet above the - river. Close to the elbow of the bend on the right bank we passed - by some white granite rocks, from one to six feet above the water, - and just below these we heard the roar of the first cataract of the - Stanley Falls series. - - [Illustration: VILLAGE NEAR THE FOREST.] - - "But louder than the noise of the falls rose the piercing yells of - the savage Mwana Ntaba from both sides of the great river. We now - found ourselves confronted by the inevitable necessity of putting - into practice the resolution which we had formed before setting out - on the wild voyage--to conquer or die. What shall we do? Shall we - turn and face the fierce cannibals, who with hideous noise drown - the solemn roar of the cataract, or shall we cry out, 'Mambu Kwa - Mungu' 'Our fate is in the hands of God'--and risk the cataract - with its terrors? - - "Meanwhile we are sliding smoothly to our destruction, and a - decision must therefore be arrived at instantly. God knows, I and - my fellows would rather have it not to do, because possibly it is - only a choice of deaths, by cruel knives or drowning. If we do not - choose the knives, which are already sharpened for our throats, - death by drowning is certain. So, finding ourselves face to face - with the inevitable, we turn to the right bank upon the savages, - who are in the woods and on the water. We drop our anchors and - begin the fight, but after fifteen minutes of it find that we - cannot force them away. We then pull up anchors and ascend stream - again, until, arriving at the elbow above mentioned, we strike - across the river and divide our forces. Mwana Sera is to take four - canoes and to continue up stream a little distance, and, while we - occupy the attention of the savages in front, is to lead his men - through the woods and set upon them in rear. At 5.30 P.M. we make - the attempt, and keep them in play for a few minutes, and on - hearing a shot in the woods dash at the shore, and under a shower - of spears and arrows effect a landing. From tree to tree the fight - is continued until sunset, when, having finally driven the enemy - off, we have earned peace for the night. - - "Until about 10 P.M. we are busy constructing an impenetrable - stockade or boma of brushwood, and then at length we lay our sorely - fatigued bodies down to rest, without comforts of any kind and - without fires, but (I speak for myself only) with a feeling of - gratitude to Him who has watched over us in our trouble, and a - humble prayer that His protection may be extended to us for the - terrible days that may yet be to come." - - [Illustration: NATIVE CORN-MAGAZINE.] - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -ATTACKED BY THE COMBINED FORCES OF THE MWANA NTABA AND BASWA -TRIBES.--THEY ARE REPULSED.--EXPLORING THE FIRST CATARACT.--CARRYING AND -DRAGGING THE BOATS THROUGH THE FOREST AND AROUND THE FALLS.--AN ISLAND -CAMP.--NATIVE WEAPONS AND UTENSILS.--ANOTHER BATTLE.--HOW ZAIDI WAS -SAVED FROM A PERILOUS POSITION.--CAUGHT IN A NET.--HOW THE NET WAS -BROKEN.--FISHES IN THE GREAT RIVER.--HOW THE OTHER CATARACTS WERE -PASSED.--AFLOAT ON SMOOTH WATER.--A HOSTILE VILLAGE.--ANOTHER -BATTLE.--ATTACKED BY A LARGE FLOTILLA.--A MONSTER BOAT.--A TEMPLE OF -IVORY.--NO MARKET FOR ELEPHANTS' TUSKS.--EVIDENCES OF -CANNIBALISM.--FRIENDLY NATIVES OF RUBUNGA.--PORTUGUESE MUSKETS IN THE -HANDS OF THE NATIVES. - - -Fred paused a few moments and then resumed the narrative: - - "At 4 A.M. of the 5th of January we were awake, cooking betimes the - food that was to strengthen us for the task that lay before us, - while the screaming lemur and the soko still alarmed the dark - forest with their weird cries. - - [Illustration: AFRICAN STOOL.] - - "We were left undisturbed until 8 A.M., when the canoes of the - Mwana Ntaba were observed to cross over to the left bank, and in - response to their signals the forest behind our camp was soon alive - with wild men. Frank distributed thirty rounds to each of the - forty-three guns which now remained to us. Including my own guns, - we possessed only forty-eight altogether, as Manwa Sera had lost - four Sniders in the Ukassa Rapid, and by the capsizing of the two - canoes in the tempest which struck us as we crossed the Livingstone - below its confluence with the Lowwa, we had lost four muskets. But - more terrible for our enemies than Sniders or muskets was the - courage of despair that now nerved every heart and kept cool and - resolute every head. - - "By river the cannibals had but little chance of success, and this - the Mwana Ntaba after a very few rounds from our guns discovered; - they therefore allied themselves with the Baswa tribe, which during - the night had crossed over from its islands, below the first falls. - Until 10 A.M. we held our own safely in the camp, but then, - breaking out of it, we charged on the foe, and until 3 P.M. were - incessantly at work. Ten of our men received wounds, and two were - killed. To prevent them becoming food for the cannibals, we - consigned them to the swift brown flood of the Livingstone. - - "The Mwana Ntaba and the Baswas at length retired, and though we - momentarily expected a visit from them each day, for the next two - or three days we were unmolested. - - "Early on the morning of the 6th I began to explore the first - cataract of the Stanley Falls. I found a small stream about two - hundred yards wide, separated by a lateral dyke of igneous rocks - from the main stream, which took the boat safely down for a couple - of miles. Then presently other dykes appeared, some mere low, - narrow ridges of rock, and others, much larger and producing tall - trees, inhabited by the Baswa tribe. Among these islets the left - stream rushed down in cascades or foamy sheets, over low terraces, - with a fall of from one foot to ten feet. The Baswas, no doubt, had - recently fled to these islets to seek refuge from some powerful - tribe situated inland west of the river. - - "The main stream, nine hundred yards wide, rushed towards the - east-northeast, and, after a mile of rapids, tilted itself against - a hilly ridge that lay north and south, the crest of which was - probably three hundred feet above the river. With my glass, from - the fork of a tree twenty feet above the ground, I saw at once that - a descent by the right side was an impossibility, as the waves were - enormous, and the slope so great that the river's face was all - a-foam; and that at the base of the hilly ridge which obstructed - its course the river seemed piling itself into a watery bank, - whence it escaped into a scene of indescribable confusion down to - the horror of whirling pools and a mad confluence of tumbling, - rushing waters. - - "I decided, therefore, to go down along the left stream, overland, - and to ascertain the best route I took eight men with me, leaving - five to guard the boat. Within two hours we had explored the - jungle, and 'blazed' a path below the falls--a distance of two - miles. - - "Then, returning to camp, I sent Frank off with a detachment of - fifty men with axes to clear the path, and a musket-armed guard of - fifteen men, to be stationed in the woods parallel with the - projected land route, and, leaving a guard of twenty men to protect - the camp, I myself rowed up river along the left bank, a distance - of three miles. - - [Illustration: SPEAR-HEAD.] - - "By noon of the 7th, having descended with the canoes as near as - prudence would permit to the first fall of the left stream, we were - ready for hauling the canoes overland. A road, fifteen feet in - width, had been cut through the tangle of rattan, palms, vines, - creepers, and brushwood, tolerably straight except where great - forest monarchs stood untouched, and whatever brushwood had been - cut from the jungle had been laid across the road in thick piles. A - rude camp had also been constructed half-way on the river side of - the road, into which everything was conveyed. By 8 P.M. we had - hauled the canoes over one mile of ground. - - [Illustration: THE KOOLOO-KAMBA, OR LONG EARED SOKO.] - - "The next day, while the people were still fresh, we buckled on to - the canoes, and by 3 P.M. of the 8th had passed the falls and - rapids of the first cataract, and were afloat in a calm creek - between Baswa Island and the left bank! - - [Illustration: A BASWA KNIFE.] - - "Not wishing to stay in such a dangerous locality longer than was - absolutely necessary, we re-embarked, and, descending cautiously - down the creek, came in a short time to the great river, with every - prospect of a good stretch of serene water. But soon we heard the - roar of another cataract, and had to hug the left bank closely. - Then we entered other creeks, which wound lazily by jungle-covered - islets, and, after two miles of meanderings among most dismal - islands and banks, emerged in view of the great river, with the - cataract's roar sounding solemnly and terribly near. As it was near - evening, and our position was extremely unpleasant, we resolved to - camp for the night at an island which lay in mid-stream. The - inhabitants fled as we approached. - - [Illustration: STYLE OF KNIVES.] - - "During the morning of the 9th we explored the island of Cheandoah, - where we were encamped, and found it much longer than we at first - supposed. It was extremely populous, and contained five villages. - We discovered an abundance of spears here and iron-ware of all - kinds used by the natives, such as knives, hammers, hatchets, - tweezers, anvils of iron, or, in other words, inverted hammers, - borers, pole-burners, fish-hooks, darts, iron rods; all the spears - possessed broad points, and were the first of this style I had - seen. Almost all the knives, large and small, were encased in - sheaths of wood covered with goat-skin, and ornamented with - polished iron bands. They varied in size, from a butcher's cleaver - to a lady's dirk, and belts of undressed goat-skin, of red buffalo - or antelope hide, were attached to them for suspension from the - shoulders. There were also iron bells, like our cow and goat bells, - curiously carved whistles, fetiches or idols of wood, uncouth and - rudely cut figures of human beings, brightly painted in vermilion, - alternating with black; baskets made of palm fibre, large wooden - and dark clay pipes, iron rings for arms and legs, numerous - treasures of necklaces of the _Achatina monetaria_, the black seeds - of a species of plantain, and the crimson berries of the _Abrus - precatorius_; copper, iron, and wooden pellets. The houses were all - of the gable-roofed pattern, which we had first noticed on the - summit of the hills on which Riba-Riba, Manyema, is situate; the - shields of the Baswa were also after the same type. - - [Illustration: BASWA BASKET AND COVER.] - - "The vegetation of the island consisted of almost every variety of - plant and tree found in this region, and the banana, plantain, - castor-bean, sugar-cane, cassava, and maize flourished; nor must - the oil-palm be forgotten, for there were great jars of its - dark-red butter in many houses." - -[Illustration: SHOOTING A CROCODILE AT THE RAPIDS.] - -"The natives on the mainland," said Fred, raising his eyes from the book -for a few moments, "opposed the explorers, and a sharp fight followed, -with the same result as at the first cataract. The boats were dragged -overland around the worst of the falls, and then lowered through the -last rapid by means of ropes. This rapid was separated by an islet from -a steep fall which was impassable by the boats. A canoe was swept over -this fall and one of its crew drowned; the rest were rescued by Frank -Pocock and some of the land party who were below the fall. - -[Illustration: CAVERN NEAR STANLEY FALLS.] - -"Just before the boat made its leap over the fall, Zaidi, its captain, -sprang into the water and caught upon a rock where he clung until Mr. -Stanley devised and executed a plan for his rescue. Strong cables were -made from rattans cut in the forest; two cables were attached to a -canoe, one at its bow and the other at the stern, and then the canoe, -manned by Uledi, the coxswain of the _Lady Alice_, and a youth named -Marzouk, was lowered carefully down the current until the unhappy man -was reached. It was a position of great peril, and the rescue of the -poor fellow was due to the skill of the leader of the expedition and the -bravery of Uledi and Marzouk. - -[Illustration: THE DESPERATE SITUATION OF ZAIDI, AND HIS RESCUE BY -ULEDI, THE COXSWAIN OF THE BOAT.] - -"Seven cataracts in all were passed," said Fred, "some of them by -lowering the boats through rapids and others by cutting roads through -the forest and dragging the craft overland. Some of the natives along -the route were peaceable, but the majority of the tribes and villages -were hostile. Mr. Stanley always exhausted all possible efforts at -peace, and never fought them until the natives themselves struck the -first blow. A short battle was usually sufficient to convince the -savages of the futility of opposition. At one place a strong net was -drawn around the camp by the natives during the night, in the same -manner that nets are drawn for hunting game in various parts of Africa. -But the savages found that the plan so effective against wild animals -did not work well against the expedition, as the net was cut to pieces -by those whom it enclosed. - -[Illustration: THE SEVENTH CATARACT, STANLEY FALLS.] - -"The passage of the cataracts and rapids which comprise the Stanley -Falls occupied twenty-two days. At the seventh cataract there was a -fish-weir, and Mr. Stanley made drawings of several fishes that were -caught there. Below Stanley Falls the river spread out again and -presented no obstacles to navigation until Stanley Pool was reached, a -distance of several hundred miles. - -[Illustration: PIKE--STANLEY FALLS.] - -"And now," said Fred, "you shall hear from Mr. Stanley about this part -of the great river: - -[Illustration: AN AFRICAN SUSPENSION BRIDGE.] - - "We hastened away down river in a hurry, to escape the noise of the - cataracts which, for many days and nights, had almost stunned us - with their deafening sound. - - "The Livingstone now deflected to the west-northwest, between hilly - banks-- - - "'Where highest woods, impenetrable - To star, or sunlight, spread their umbrage broad - And brown as evening.' - - [Illustration: FISH--SEVENTH CATARACT, STANLEY FALLS. - - 28 inches long; 16 inches round body; round snout; no teeth; broad - tail; large scales; color, pale brown.] - - "We are once again afloat upon a magnificent stream, whose broad - and gray-brown waters woo us with their mystery. We are not a whit - dejected after our terrible experiences; we find our reward in - being alive to look upon wild nature, and a strange elasticity - comes over us. The boat-boys amuse me by singing their most - animating song, to which every member of our expedition responds - with enthusiasm. The men, women, and children are roused to - maintain that reckless, exuberant spirit which assisted me to drive - through the cannibal region of the Stanley Falls, for otherwise - they might lose that dash and vigor on which depends our success. - They are apt, if permitted thinking-time, to brood upon our - situation, to become disquieted and melancholy, to reflect on the - fate of those who have already been lost, and to anticipate a like - dolorous ending to their own lives. - - [Illustration: BASWA PALM-OIL JAR AND PALM-WINE COOLER.] - - "At noon, on the 29th, when approaching a large village, we were - again assaulted by the aborigines. We drove them back, and obtained - a peaceful passage past them, until 1 P.M. From 1 P.M. we were - engaged with a new tribe, which possessed very large villages, and - maintained a running fight with us until 4 P.M., when, observing - the large village of Ituka below us, and several canoes cutting - across river to head us off, we resolved to make our stand on the - shore. Material for constructing a boma was soon discovered in the - outlying houses of the village, and by five o'clock we were - tolerably secure on the edge of the steep banks--all obstructions - cleared away on the land side, and a perfect view of the river - front and shore below us. - - [Illustration: MOUTH OF DRUM.] - - "The savages were hideously bepainted for war, one half of their - bodies being white, the other ochreous. Their shields were oblong - squares, beautifully made of rattan-cane, light, tough, and, to - spears and knives, impenetrable. A square slab of ebony wood with a - cleat, and one long thin board placed lengthways, and another - crossways, sufficed to stiffen them. Shouting their - war-cries--'Ya-Mariwa! Ya-Mariwa!'--they rushed on our boma fences - like a herd of buffaloes several times, in one of which charges - Muftah Rufiji was killed, and another man received a wound from a - spear, which glanced along his back. As the heavy spears hurtled - through the boma, or flew over it, very many of us had extremely - narrow escapes. Frank, for instance, avoided one by giving his body - a slight jerk on one side. We, of course, had the advantage, being - protected by doors, roofs of houses, poles, brushwood, and our - great Mwana Ntaba shields, which had been of invaluable use to us, - and had often in the heat of fights saved us and made us almost - invulnerable. - - [Illustration: WOODEN SIGNAL-DRUM OF THE WENYA, OR WAGENYA, AND THE - TRIBES ON THE LIVINGSTONE.] - - "From the Ruiki River up to this afternoon of the 29th of January - we had fought twenty-four times, and out of these struggles we had - obtained sixty-five doorlike shields, which upon the commencement - of a fight on the river at all times had been raised by the women, - children, and non-combatants as bulwarks before the riflemen, from - behind which, cool and confident, the forty-three guns were of more - avail than though there were one hundred and fifty riflemen - unprotected. The steersmen, likewise protected, were enabled to - steer their vessels with the current while we were engaged in these - running fights. Against the spears and arrows the shields were - impervious. - - [Illustration: DRUMSTICKS, KNOBS BEING OF INDIA-RUBBER.] - - "About ten o'clock of the 30th another conflict began, in the usual - way, by a determined assault on us in canoes. By charging under - cover of our shields we captured one canoe and eight men, and - withdrew to a low grassy islet opposite Yangambi, a settlement - consisting of five populous villages. We had discovered by this - that nothing cowed the natives so much as a capture, and as it was - the most bloodless mode of settling what might have been a - protracted affair, I had adopted it. Through our captives we were - enabled to negotiate for an unmolested passage, though it involved - delay and an expenditure of lung force that was very trying; still, - as it ended satisfactorily in many ways, it was preferable to - continued fighting. It also increased our opportunities of knowing - who our antagonists were, and to begin an acquaintance with these - long-buried peoples. - - [Illustration: SHIELDS OF ITUKA PEOPLE.] - - "When the natives observed us preparing to halt on the grassy islet - directly opposite their villages, with their unfortunate friends in - our power, they withdrew to their villages to consult. The distance - between our grassy islet and the right bank was only five hundred - yards, and, as it was the eastern bank, the sun shone direct on - them, enabling me, with the aid of a field-glass, to perceive even - the differences of feature between one man and another. - - [Illustration: FISH--STANLEY FALLS. - - Fine scales; weight, 23 lbs.; thick, broad snout; 26 small teeth in - upper jaw, 23 teeth in lower jaw; broad tongue; head, 11 inches - long.] - - "We placed our captives in their canoe, and, giving each a few - shells, motioned them to depart. As the warriors on the bank saw - their friends return, they all gathered round the landing-place, - and, as they landed, asked scores of questions, the replies to - which elicited loud grunts of approval and wonder. The drumming - gradually ceased, the war-cries were heard no more, the people left - their processions to crowd round their countrymen, and the enormous - spear-blades no longer flashed their brightness on us. We waited - about an hour, and, taking it for granted that after such a signal - instance of magnanimity they would not resume their hostile - demeanor, we quietly embarked, and glided down river unopposed. - - "At a little after noon, on February 1st, we were attacked by a - larger force of canoes than on any previous occasion. We were - passing the mouth of the Aruwimi River, where there was a great - concourse of canoes hovering about some islets which stud the - middle of the stream. The canoe-men, standing up, give a loud shout - as they discern us, and blow their horns louder than ever. We pull - briskly on to gain the right bank, when, looking up stream, we see - a sight that sends the blood tingling through every nerve and fibre - of the body, arouses not only our most lively interest, but also - our most lively apprehensions--a flotilla of gigantic canoes - bearing down upon us, which both in size and numbers utterly - eclipse anything encountered hitherto! Instead of aiming for the - right bank, we form in line, and keep straight down river, the boat - taking position behind. Yet after a moment's reflection, as I note - the numbers of the savages, and the daring manner of the pursuit, - and the apparent desire of our canoes to abandon the steady, - compact line, I give the order to drop anchor. Four of our canoes - affect not to listen, until I chase them, and threaten them with my - guns. This compelled them to return to the line, which is formed of - eleven double canoes, anchored ten yards apart. The boat moves up - to the front, and takes position fifty yards above them. The - shields are next lifted by the non-combatants, men, women, and - children, in the bows and along the outer lines, as well as astern, - and from behind these the muskets and rifles are aimed. - - "We have sufficient time to take a view of the mighty force bearing - down on us, and to count the number of the war-vessels which have - been collected from the Livingstone and its great affluent. There - are fifty-four of them! A monster canoe leads the way, with two - rows of upstanding paddles, forty men on a side, their bodies - bending and swaying in unison as with a swelling barbarous chorus - they drive her down towards us. In the bow, standing on what - appears to be a platform, are ten prime young warriors, their heads - gay with feathers of the parrot, crimson and gray; at the stern, - eight men, with long paddles, whose tops are decorated with ivory - balls, guide the monster vessel; and dancing up and down from stem - to stern are ten men, who appear to be chiefs. All the paddles are - headed with ivory balls, every head bears a feather crown, every - arm shows gleaming white ivory armlets. From the bow of the canoe - streams a thick fringe of the long white fibre of the Hyphene palm. - The crashing sound of large drums, a hundred blasts from ivory - horns, and a thrilling chant from two thousand human throats, do - not tend to soothe our nerves or to increase our confidence. - However, it is 'neck or nothing.' We have no time to pray, or to - take sentimental looks at the savage world, or even to breathe a - sad farewell to it. So many other things have to be done speedily - and well. - - "As the foremost canoe comes rushing down, its consorts on either - side beating the water into foam and raising their jets of water - with their sharp prows, I turn to take a last look at our people, - and say to them: - - "'Boys, be firm as iron; wait until you see the first spear, and - then take good aim. Don't fire all at once. Keep aiming until you - are sure of your man. Don't think of running away, for only your - guns can save you.' - - "Frank is with the _Ocean_ on the right flank, and has a choice - crew, and a good bulwark of black wooden shields. Manwa Sera has - the _London Town_--which he has taken in charge instead of the - _Glasgow_--on the left flank, the sides of the canoe bristling with - guns, in the hands of tolerably steady men. - - [Illustration: MONSTER CANOE.] - - "The monster canoe aims straight for my boat, as though it would - run us down; but, when within fifty yards off, swerves aside, and, - when nearly opposite, the warriors above the manned prow let fly - their spears, and on either side there is a noise of rushing - bodies. But every sound is soon lost in the ripping, crackling - musketry. For five minutes we are so absorbed in firing that we - take no note of anything else; but at the end of that time we are - made aware that the enemy is re-forming about two hundred yards - above us. - - "Our blood is up now. It is a murderous world, and we feel for the - first time that we hate the filthy, vulturous ghouls who inhabit - it. We therefore lift our anchors, and pursue them up-stream along - the right bank, until, rounding a point, we see their villages. We - make straight for the banks, and continue the fight in the village - streets with those who have landed, hunt them out into the woods, - and there only sound the retreat, having returned the daring - cannibals the compliment of a visit. - - "While mustering my people for re-embarkation, one of the men came - forward and said that in the principal village there was a - 'Meskiti,' a 'pembé'--a church, or temple--of ivory, and that ivory - was 'as abundant as fuel.' In a few moments I stood before the - ivory temple, which was merely a large circular roof supported by - thirty-three tusks of ivory, erected over an idol four feet high, - painted with camwood dye a bright vermilion, with black eyes and - beard and hair. The figure was very rude, still it was an - unmistakable likeness of a man. The tusks being wanted by the - Wangwana, they received permission to convey them into the canoes. - One hundred other pieces of ivory were collected, in the shape of - log wedges, long ivory war-horns, ivory pestles to pound cassava - into meal, and herbs for spinach, ivory armlets and balls, and - ivory mallets to beat the fig-bark into cloth. - - [Illustration: NATIVE SPADE.] - - "The stores of beautifully carved paddles, ten feet in length, some - of which were iron-pointed, the enormous six-feet-long spears, - which were designed more for ornament than use, the splendid long - knives, like Persian kummars, and bright iron-mounted sheaths with - broad belts of red buffalo and antelope hide, barbed spears, from - the light assegai to the heavy double-handed sword-spear, the - tweezers, hammers, prickers, hole-burners, hairpins, fish-hooks, - hammers, arm and leg-rings of iron and copper, iron beads and - wrist-bands, iron bells, axes, war-hatchets, adzes, hoes, dibbers, - etc., proved the people on the banks of this river to be clever, - intelligent, and more advanced in the arts than any hitherto - observed since we commenced our descent of the Livingstone. The - architecture of their huts, however, was the same, except the - conical structure they had erected over their idol. Their canoes - were much larger than those of the Mwana Ntaba, above the Stanley - Falls, which had crocodiles and lizards carved on them. Their - skull-caps of basket-work, leopard, civet, and monkey skins, were - similar to those that we had observed in Uregga. Their shields were - like those of the Wariwa. There were various specimens of African - wood-carving in great and small idols, stools of ingenious pattern, - double benches, walk-staffs, spear-staffs, paddles, flutes, - grain-mortars, mallets, drums, clubs, troughs, scoops and - canoe-balers, paddles, porridge-spoons, etc. Gourds also exhibited - taste in ornamentation. Their earthenware was very superior, their - pipes of an unusual pattern--in short, everything that is of use to - a well-found African village exhibited remarkable intelligence and - prosperity. - - [Illustration: THE FIGHT BELOW THE CONFLUENCE OF THE ARUWIMI AND - THE LIVINGSTONE RIVERS.] - - "Evidences of cannibalism were numerous in the human and 'soko' - skulls that grinned on many poles, and the bones that were freely - scattered in the neighborhood, near the village garbage heaps and - the river banks, where one might suppose hungry canoe-men to have - enjoyed a cold collation on an ancient matron's arm. As the most - positive and downright evidence, in my opinion, of this hideous - practice, was the thin forearm of a person that was picked up near - a fire, with certain scorched ribs which might have been tossed - into the fire after being gnawed. It is true that it is but - circumstantial evidence, yet we accepted them as indubitable - proofs. Besides, we had been taunted with remarks that we would - furnish them with meat supplies--for the words _meat_ and _to-day_ - have but slight dialectic difference in many languages. - - [Illustration: SPEAR, ISANGI.] - - "We embarked in our canoes at 5 P.M., and, descending the affluent, - came to the confluence again, and then, hugging the right bank, - appeared before other villages; but after our successful resistance - to such a confederation of chiefs and the combined strength of - three or four different tribes, it was not likely that one small - settlement would risk an encounter. For several days after this - battle we had little opposition. We avoided the villages as much as - possible, and by the 8th of February we were entirely out of - provisions. On the 9th we camped on a grassy islet in front of a - village called Rubunga, where, after a great deal of parleying, we - bought a plentiful supply of bananas and other food. We made - brotherhood with the chief, and had no trouble during our stay. - - [Illustration: KNIVES, RUBUNGA.] - - "The people of Rubunga carry knives which are singular specimens of - the African smith's art, being principally of a waving - sickle-shaped pattern, while the principal men carried - brass-handled weapons, eighteen inches long, double-edged, and - rather wide-pointed, with two blood channels along the centre of - the broad blade, while near the hilt the blade was pierced by two - quarter-circular holes, while the top of the haft was ornamented - with the fur of the otter. - - "The aborigines dress their hair with an art peculiar to the Warua - and Waguha, which consists in wearing it in tufts on the back of - the head, and fastening it with elegantly shaped iron hairpins--a - fashion which also obtains among many kitchen maids in England. - Tattooing is carried to excess, every portion of the skin bearing - punctured marks, from the roots of the hair down to the knees. - Their breasts are like hieroglyphic parchment charts, marked with - _raised_ figures, ledges, squares, circles, wavy lines, tuberose - knots, rosettes, and every conceivable design. No coloring - substance had been introduced into these incisions and punctures; - the cuticle had simply been tortured and irritated by the injection - of some irritants or air. Indeed, some of the glossy tubercles, - which contained air, were as large as hens' eggs. As many as six - thin ledges marked the foreheads from temple to temple, as many ran - down each cheek, while from lower eyelid to base of septum curved - wavy lines; the chin showed rosettes, the neck seemed goitrous with - the large vesicular protuberances, while the front parts of their - bodies afforded broad fields upon which the native artist had - displayed the exuberant fertility of his genius. To such an extent - is this fashion carried that the people are hideously deformed, - many of them having quite unnatural features and necks. - - [Illustration: RINGS FOR PROTECTING THE ARM.] - - "To add to the atrocious bad taste of these aborigines, their - necklaces consisted of human, gorilla, and crocodile teeth, in such - quantity in many cases that little or nothing could be seen of the - neck. A few possessed polished boars' tusks, with the points made - to meet from each side. - - "The most curious objects we discovered at Rubunga were four - ancient Portuguese muskets, at the sight of which the people of the - expedition raised a glad shout. These appeared to them certain - signs that we had not lost the road, that the great river did - really reach the sea, and that their master was not deluding them - when he told them that some day they would see the sea. - - "In reply to our questions as to where they had obtained them, they - said from men in canoes from Bankaro, Bangaro, Mangara, or, as the - word finally settled down, from Mangala, who came once a year to - buy ivory. These traders were black men, and they had never heard - of white men or of Arabs." - -"We will now," said Fred, "leave you to pass the night among the people -of Rubunga, who seem friendly enough to warrant my trusting you with -them." The eager listeners took the hint thus conveyed and there was a -concerted movement towards the doorway. - -[Illustration: RUBUNGA BLACKSMITHS.] - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - -IN URANGI.--A NOISY RECEPTION.--WONDERFUL HEAD-DRESSES.--A TREACHEROUS -ATTACK.--ANIMAL LIFE ALONG THE RIVER.--BIRDS AND BEASTS OF THE GREAT -STREAM.--A BATTLE WITH THE BANGALA.--FIRE-ARMS IN THE HANDS OF THE -NATIVES.--THE SAVAGES, ALTHOUGH IN SUPERIOR NUMBERS, ARE REPULSED.--HIGH -WINDS AND STORMS.--EFFECT OF THE CLIMATE ON MR. STANLEY'S HEALTH.--A -GREAT TRIBUTARY RIVER.--FRIENDLY PEOPLE OF IKENGO.--PROVISIONS IN -ABUNDANCE.--ISLANDS IN THE RIVER.--DEATH OF AMINA.--A MOURNFUL -SCENE.--THE LEVY HILLS.--HIPPOPOTAMUS CREEK.--BOLOBO.--THE KING OF -CHUMBIRI.--A CRAFTY POTENTATE.--HIS DRESS, PIPE, WIVES, AND -SONS.--INCONVENIENT COLLARS.--CURIOUS CUSTOMS. - - -It was Frank's turn to read on the next day, and, promptly at the -appointed hour, the reader and his audience were in their places. -Without any preliminary remarks, the youth plunged at once into the -midst of his subject. - -[Illustration: DOUBLE IRON BELLS OF URANGI.] - - "On the morning of the 10th of February natives from down river - appeared to escort us, and our friends of Rubunga also despatched a - canoe and five men to introduce us to Urangi. In about two hours we - arrived at the very populous settlement of Urangi, consisting of - several villages almost joining one another. I doubt whether the - people of Urangi and Rubunga are cannibals, though we obtained - proof sufficient that human life is not a subject of concern with - them, and the necklaces of human teeth which they wore were by no - means assuring--they provoked morbid ideas. - - "We received a noisy and demonstrative welcome. In the afternoon - the great chief of Urangi made his presence known by sounding his - double iron gong. This gong consisted of two long, iron, - bell-shaped instruments, connected above by an iron handle, which, - when beaten with a short stick with a ball of india-rubber at the - end, produced very agreeable musical sounds. He had a kindly - reception, and though he manifested no desire or declared any - intention of reciprocating our gift, he did not leave our camp - dissatisfied with his present. He loudly proclaimed to the assembly - in the river something to the effect that I was his brother; that - peace and good-will should prevail, and that everybody should - behave, and 'make plenty of trade.' But on his departure his people - became roguish and like wild children. Scores of canoes flitted - here and there, up and down, along the front of the camp, which - gave us opportunities of observing that every person was tattooed - in the most abominable manner; that the coiffeur's art was carried - to perfection; that human teeth were popular ornaments for the - neck; that their own teeth were filed; that brass wire to an - astonishing quantity had been brought to them by the Bangala; as - they had coils of it upon their arms and legs, and ruffs of it - resting upon their shoulders; that while the men wore ample - loin-coverings of grass-cloth, their women went naked; that ivory - was to be purchased here to any amount, and that palm-wine had - affected the heads of a great many. We also discovered that Urangi - possessed about a dozen muskets. - - "During the night we heard drumming and the report of muskets, but - were not otherwise disturbed. As we departed down the river in the - morning we were treacherously attacked by a fleet of canoes, and - had a hard fight to beat them off. Hitherto, on the river, we had - only the arrows and spears of the natives to fear, but now they - were using muskets. - - [Illustration: BEAK OF THE BALINÆCEPS REX.] - - "There was an abundance of animal life along the river. On the - islands we saw several elephants; the river was full of crocodiles - and hippopotami, and along the islands and banks there were flocks - of storks, cranes, ducks, egrets, flamingoes, spur-winged geese, - and other aquatic birds. We saw many fine specimens of the - Balinæceps Rex, identical with the one inhabiting the Upper Nile. - He makes his home among the lotus-flowers and papyrus-plants, and - is noticeable for his enormous beak. - - [Illustration: THE BALINÆCEPS REX.] - - "During the forenoon of the 14th of February, while anxiously - looking out lest we should be taken by some erratic channels in - view of other villages, we arrived at the end of an island, which, - after some hesitation, we followed along the right. Two islands - were to the right of us, and prevented us from observing the - mainland. But after descending two miles we came in full view of a - small settlement on the right bank. Too late to return, we crept - along down river, hugging the island as closely as possible, in - order to arrive at a channel before the natives should sight us. - But, alas! even in the midst of our prayers for deliverance, sharp, - quick taps on a native kettle-drum sent our blood bounding to the - heart, and we listened in agony for the response. Presently one - drum after another sounded the alarm, until the Titanic drums of - war thundered the call to arms. - - "In very despair I sprang to my feet, and, addressing my distressed - and long-suffering followers, said, 'It is of no use, my friends, - to hope to escape these blood-thirsty pagans. Those drums mean war. - Yet it is very possible these are the Bangala, in which case, being - traders, they will have heard of the men by the sea, and a little - present may satisfy the chiefs. Now, while I take the sun you - prepare your guns, your powder and bullets; see that every shield - is ready to lift at once, as soon as you see or hear one gun-shot. - It is only in that way I can save you, for every pagan now, from - here to the sea, is armed with a gun, and they are black like you, - and they have a hundred guns to your one. If we must die, we will - die with guns in our hands, like men. While I am speaking, and - trying to make friendship with them, let no one speak or move.' - - "We drew ashore at the little island, opposite the highest village, - and at noon I obtained by observation north latitude 1° 7' 0". - Meanwhile savage madness was being heated by the thunder of drums, - canoes were mustering, guns were being loaded, spears and - broadswords were being sharpened, all against us, merely because we - were strangers, and afloat on their waters. Yet we had the will and - the means to purchase amity. We were ready to submit to any tax, - imposition, or insolent demand for the privilege of a peaceful - passage. Except life, or one drop of our blood, we would sacrifice - anything. - - "Slowly and silently we withdrew from the shelter of the island and - began the descent of the stream. The boat took position in front, - Frank's canoe, the _Ocean_, on the right, Manwa Sera's, _London - Town_, to the left. Beyond Manwa Sera's canoe was the uninhabited - island, the great length of which had ensnared us and hedged us in - to the conflict. From our right the enemy would appear with muskets - and spears and an unquenchable ferocity, unless we could mollify - him. - - "We had left Observation Island about half a mile behind us when - the prows of many canoes were seen to emerge out of the creek. I - stood up and edged towards them, holding a long piece of red cloth - in one hand and a coil of brass wire in the other. We rested on our - oars, and the men quietly placed their paddles in their canoes, and - sat up, watchful, but ready for contingencies. As we floated down, - numbers of canoes advanced. - - "I hailed the natives, who were the most brilliantly decorated of - any yet seen. At a distance they all appeared to wear something - like English University caps, though of a white color. There was a - great deal of glitter and flash of metal, shining brass, copper, - and bright steel among them. - - "The natives returned no answer to my hail; still I persisted, with - the same artfulness of manner that had been so successful at - Rubunga. I observed three or four canoes approaching Frank's vessel - with a most suspicious air about them, and several of their canoes - menacing him, at which Frank stood up and menaced them with his - weapon. I thought the act premature, and ordered him to sit down - and to look away from them. I again raised the crimson cloth and - wire, and by pantomime offered to give it to those in front, whom I - was previously addressing; but almost immediately those natives who - had threatened Frank fired into my boat, wounding three of my young - crew--Mambu, Murabo, and Jaffari--and two more natives fired into - Frank's canoe, wounding two--Hatib and Muftah. The missiles fired - into us were jagged pieces of iron and copper ore precisely similar - to those which the Ashantees employed. After this murderous outrage - there was no effort made to secure peace. The shields were lifted, - and proved capital defences against the hail of slugs. Boat, - shields, and canoes were pitted, but only a few shields were - perforated. - - [Illustration: A CANNIBAL CHIEF.] - - "The conflict began in earnest, and lasted so long that ammunition - had to be redistributed. We perceived that, as the conflict - continued, every village sent out its quota. About two o'clock a - canoe advanced with a swaggering air, its crew evidently - intoxicated, and fired at us when within thirty yards. The boat - instantly swept down to it and captured it, but the crew sprang - into the river, and, being capital swimmers, were saved by a timely - arrival of their friends. At three o'clock I counted sixty-three - opposed to us. Some of the Bangala distinguished themselves by an - audacity and courage that, for our own sakes, I was glad to see was - not general. Especially one young chief, distinguished by his - head-dress of white goat-skin and a short mantle of the same - material, and wreaths of thick brass wire on neck, arms, and legs, - sufficient, indeed, to have protected those parts from slugs, and - proving him to be a man of consequence. His canoe-mates were ten in - number; and his steersman, by his adroitness and dexterity, managed - the canoe so well that, after he and his mates had fired their - guns, he instantly presented its prow and only a thin line of - upright figures to our aim. Each time he dashed up to deliver his - fire all the canoes of his countrymen seemed stimulated by his - example to emulate him. And, allowing five guns on an average to - each of the sixty-three canoes, there were three hundred and - fifteen muskets opposed to our forty-four. Their mistake was in - supposing their slugs to have the same penetrative effect and long - range as our missiles had. Only a few of the boldest approached, - after they had experienced our fire, within a hundred yards. The - young chief already mentioned frequently charged to within fifty - yards, and delivered a smashing charge of missiles, almost all of - which were either too low or too high. Finally Manwa Sera wounded - him with a Snider bullet in the thigh. The brave fellow coolly, and - in presence of us all, took a piece of cloth and deliberately - bandaged it, and then calmly retreated towards shore. The action - was so noble and graceful that orders were given to let him - withdraw unmolested. After his departure the firing became - desultory, and at 5.30 P.M. our antagonists retired, leaving us to - attend to our wounded, and to give three hearty cheers at our - success. This was our thirty-first fight on the terrible river--the - last but one--and certainly the most determined conflict that we - had endured. - - "The Bangala may be said to be the Ashantees of the Livingstone - River, though their country has comparatively but a small populated - river front. Their villages cover--at intervals of a mile or half a - mile--a line of ten miles. They trade with Ikengo and Irebu down - the river all the ivory they have purchased from Upoto, Gunji, - Mpisa, Ukeré, Rubunga, Urangi, Mpakiwana, and Marunja. I observed - soon after the fight began that many canoes emerged out of a river - coming from a northerly direction. For a long period the river of - Bangala has appeared on West African maps as the Bancaro River. The - word Bangala, which may be pronounced Bangara, Bankara, or Bankaro, - signifies the people of Mangala or Mangara, Mankara or Mankaro. I - have simply adopted the more popular term. - - [Illustration: THE ATTACK OF THE SIXTY-THREE CANOES OF THE - PIRATICAL BANGALA.] - - "We continued our journey on this eventful day until an hour after - sunset, when we proceeded to establish a camp at the head of a - narrow, tortuous channel, which lost itself amid the clusters of - small islets. - - "On the 15th, at noon, we reached north latitude 0° 58' 0". The - strong winds which at this season blow daily up river impeded our - journey greatly. They generally began at 8 A.M., and lasted until 3 - P.M. When narrow channels were open to us we were enabled to - proceed without interruption, but when exposed to broad open - streams the waves rose as high as two feet, and were a source of - considerable danger. Indeed, from the regularity and increased - force of the winds, I half suspected at the time that the - Livingstone emptied into some vast lake such as the Victoria - Nyanza. The mean temperature in the shade seldom exceeded 74° - Fahrenheit, and the climate, though not dry, was far more agreeable - than the clammy humidity characteristic of the east coast. The - difference between the heat in this elevated region and that of the - east coast was such that, while it was dangerous to travel in the - sun without a sun-umbrella, near the sea on the east coast a light - double-cotton cloth cap saved me from feeling any inconvenience - when standing up in the boat under a bright glaring sun and - cloudless sky. While sitting down in the boat, a few minutes was - sufficient to convince me it was dangerous, without an umbrella, - even here. While at work at the Stanley Falls the umbrella was not - used. The nights were uncomfortable without a blanket, and - sometimes even two were desirable. - - [Illustration: POISONED ARROWS.] - - "The winds which prevail at this season of the year are from the - southwest, or south, which means from the temperate latitude of the - South Atlantic, and slightly chilled in their passage over the - western ranges. In the early morning the thermometer was often as - low as 64°. From 10 A.M. to 4 P.M. it ranged from 75° to 85° - Fahrenheit in the shade; from 4 P.M. to sunset it ranged from 72° - to 80°. From the 12th of January until the 5th of March we - experienced no rain. - - "One remarkable fact connected with our life in this region is, - that though we endured more anxiety of mind and more strain on the - body, were subject to constant peril, and fared harder (being - compelled for weeks to subsist on green bananas, cassava, and - sugarless tea, and those frequently in scanty quantities), - we--Frank and I--enjoyed better health on the Livingstone than at - any other period of the journey; but whether this unusual health - might not be attributed to having become more acclimatized is a - question. - - "The mirage on the Livingstone was often ludicrously deceptive, - playing on our fears at a most trying period, in a manner which - plunged us from a temporary enjoyment of our immunity from attack - into a state of suspicion and alarm, which probably, in nine cases - out of ten, arose out of the exaggerated proportions given to a - flock of pelicans or wild geese, which to our nerves, then in a - high state of tension, appeared to be a very host of tall warriors. - A young crocodile basking on a sandy spit appeared to be as large - as a canoe, and an ancient and bleached tree a ship. - - [Illustration: A CROCODILE HUNT.] - - "At noon of the 17th we had reached north latitude 0° 18' 41", our - course during the 16th and 17th having been southwest, but a - little before sunset the immense river was gradually deflecting to - south. - - "I quote the following from my note-book: - - "'_February_ 18, 1877.--For three days we have been permitted, - through the mercy of God, to descend this great river uninterrupted - by savage clamor or ferocity. Winds during two days seriously - impeded us, and were a cause for anxiety, but yesterday was fine - and calm, and the river like a sheet of burnished glass; we - therefore made good progress. In the afternoon we encountered a - native trading expedition from Ikengo in three canoes, one of which - was manned by fifteen paddlers, clothed in robes of crimson - blanket-cloth. We hailed them, but they refused to answer us. This - sight makes me believe the river must be pretty free of cataracts, - and it may be that there are no more than the Sundi cataract, and - the Falls of Yellalla reported by Tuckey in 1816, otherwise I - cannot account for the ascent of three trading vessels, and such - extensive possession of cloths and guns, so far up the river. - - "'Since the 10th of February we have been unable to purchase food, - or indeed approach a settlement for any amicable purpose. The - aborigines have been so hostile that even fishing-canoes have fired - at us as though we were harmless game. God alone knows how we shall - prosper below. But let come what may, I have purposed to attempt - communicating with the natives to-morrow. A violent death will be - preferable to death by starvation. - - "'_February_ 19, 1877.--This morning we regarded each other as - fated victims of protracted famine, or the rage of savages, like - those of Mangala. But as we feared famine most, we resolved to - confront the natives again. At 10 A.M., while we were descending - the Livingstone along the left bank, we discovered an enormous - river, considerably over a thousand yards wide, with a strong - current, and deep, of the color of black tea. This is the largest - influent yet discovered, and after joining the Livingstone it - appeared to command the left half to itself--it strangely refuses - to amalgamate with the Livingstone, and the divisional line between - them is plainly marked by a zigzag ripple, as though the two great - streams contended with one another for the mastery. Even the - Aruwimi and the Lowwa united would not greatly exceed this giant - influent. Its strong current and black water contrast very strongly - with the whitey-brown Livingstone. On the upper side of the - confluence is situate Ibonga, but the natives, though not openly - hostile, replied to us with the peculiar war-cries "Yaha-ha-ha!" - - "'We continued our journey, though grievously hungry, past Bwena - and Inguba, doing our utmost to induce the staring fishermen to - communicate with us, without any success. They became at once - officiously busy with guns, and dangerously active. We arrived at - Ikengo, and as we were almost despairing we proceeded to a small - island opposite this settlement and prepared to encamp. Soon a - canoe with seven men came dashing across, and we prepared our - moneys for exhibition. They unhesitatingly advanced, and ran their - canoe alongside us. We were rapturously joyful, and returned them a - most cordial welcome, as the act was a most auspicious sign of - confidence. We were liberal, and the natives fearlessly accepted - our presents, and from this giving of gifts we proceeded to seal - this incipient friendship with our blood with all due ceremony. - - [Illustration: ELEPHANT HUNTERS ON THE CONGO.] - - "'After an hour's stay with us they returned to communicate with - their countrymen, leaving one young fellow with us, which was - another act of grace. Soon from a village below Ikengo two more - canoes came up with two chiefs, who were extremely insolent and - provoking, though after nearly two and a half years' experience of - African manners we were not to be put out of temper because two - drunken savages chose to be overbearing. - - [Illustration: AFRICAN KNIFE AND AXES.] - - "'By and by they cooled down. We got them to sit and talk, and we - laughed together, and were apparently the best of friends. Of all - the things which struck their fancy, my note-book, which they - called "tara-tara," or looking-glass, appeared to them to be the - most wonderful. They believed it possessed manifold virtues, and - that it came from above. Would I, could I, sell it to them? It - would have found a ready sale. But as it contained records of - disaster by flood and fire, charts of rivers and creeks and - islands, sketches of men and manners, notes upon a thousand - objects, I could not part with it even for a tusk of ivory. - - "'They got angry and sulky again. It was like playing with and - coaxing spoiled children. We amused them in various ways, and they - finally became composed, and were conquered by good-nature. With a - generous scorn of return gifts, they presented me with a gourdful - of palm-wine. But I begged so earnestly for food that they sent - their canoes back, and, while they sat down by my side, it devolved - upon me until their return to fascinate and charm them with - benignant gestures and broken talk. About 3 P.M. provisions came in - basketfuls of cassava tubers, bananas, and long plantains, and the - two chiefs made me rich by their liberality, while the people began - also to thaw from that stupor into which impending famine had - plunged them. At sunset our two friends, with whom I had labored - with a zealot's enthusiasm, retired, each leaving with me a spear - as a pledge that they would return to-morrow, and renew our - friendly intercourse, with canoe-loads of provisions. - - [Illustration: SPEARS, AND SHIELD OF ELEPHANT-HIDE.] - - "'_February_ 20, 1877.--My two friends brought most liberal - supplies with them of cassava tubers, cassava loaves, flour, maize, - plantains, and bananas, and two small goats, besides two large - gourdfuls of palm-wine, and, what was better, they had induced - their countrymen to respond to the demand for food. We held a - market on Mwangangala Island, at which there was no scarcity of - supplies; black pigs, goats, sheep, bananas, plantains, cassava - bread, flour, maize, sweet potatoes, yams, and fish being the - principal things brought for sale. - - "'The tall chief of Bwena and the chief of Inguba, influenced by - the two chiefs of Ikengo, also thawed, and announced their coming - by sounding those curious double bell-gongs, and blowing long horns - of ivory, the notes of which distance made quite harmonious. During - the whole of this day life was most enjoyable, intercourse - unreservedly friendly, and though most of the people were armed - with guns there was no manifestation of the least desire to be - uncivil, rude, or hostile, which inspired us once more with a - feeling of security to which we had been strangers since leaving - Urangi. - - "'From my friends I learned that the name of the great river above - Bwena is called Ikelemba. When I asked them which was the largest - river, that which flowed by Mangala, or that which came from the - southeast, they replied, that though Ikelemba River was very large, - it was not equal to the "big river." They said it would take me - thirty days to reach the cataracts of the lower part of the river. - - "'Every weapon these natives possess is decorated with fine brass - wire and brass tacks. Their knives are beautiful weapons, of a - bill-hook pattern, the handles of which are also profusely - decorated with an amount of brass-work and skill that places them - very high among the clever tribes. These knives are carried in - broad sheaths of red buffalo-hide, and are suspended by a belt of - the same material. Besides an antique flint-lock musket, each - warrior is armed with from four to five light and long assegais, - with staves of the _Curtisia faginea_, and a bill-hook sword. They - are a finely formed people, of a chocolate brown, very partial to - camwood powder and palm-oil. Snuff is very freely taken, and their - tobacco is most pungent. - - "'_February_ 21.--This afternoon at 2 P.M. we continued our - journey. Eight canoes accompanied us some distance, and then parted - from us, with many demonstrations of friendship. The river flows - from Ikengo southwesterly, the flood of the Ikelemba retaining its - dark color, and spreading over a breadth of three thousand yards; - the Livingstone's pure, whitey-gray waters flow over a breadth of - about five thousand yards, in many broad channels.' - - "From the left bank we crossed to the right, on the morning of the - 22d, and, clinging to the wooded shores of Ubangi, had reached at - noon south latitude 0° 51' 13". Two hours later we came to where - the great river contracted to a breadth of three thousand yards, - flowing between two low, rocky points, both of which were populous, - well cultivated, and rich with banana plantations. Below these - points the river slowly widened again, and islands well wooded, - like those farther up the river, rose into view, until by their - number they formed once more intricate channels and winding creeks. - - [Illustration: SPECTATORS AMONG THE TREES.] - - "Desirous of testing the character of the natives, we pulled across - to the left bank, until, meeting with a small party of fishermen, - we were again driven by their ferocity to seek the untravelled and - unpopulated island wildernesses. It was rather amusing than - otherwise to observe the readiness of the savages of Irebu to - fire their guns at us. They appeared to think that we were human - waifs without parentage, guardianship, or means of protection, for - their audacity was excessive. One canoe with only four men dashed - down at us from behind an island close to the left bank, and fired - point-blank from a distance of one hundred yards. Another party ran - along a spit of sand and coolly waited our approach on their knees, - and, though we sheered off to a distance of two hundred yards from - them, they poured a harmless volley of slugs towards us, at which - Baraka, the humorist, said that the pagans caused us to 'eat more - iron than grain.' - - "Such frantic creatures, however, could not tempt us to fight them. - The river was wide enough, channels innumerable afforded us means - of escaping from their mad ferocity, and if poor purblind nature - was so excessively arrogant, Providence had kindly supplied us with - crooked by-ways and unfrequented paths of water which we might - pursue unmolested. - - "At noon of the 23d we had reached 1° 22' 15" south latitude. - Strong gales met us during each day. The islands were innumerable, - creeks and channels winding in and out among the silent scenes. But - though their general appearance was much the same, almost uniform - in outline and size, the islands never became commonplace. Was it - from gratitude at the security they afforded us from the ruthless - people of these regions? I do not know, but every bosky island into - whose dark depths, shadowed by impervious roofs of foliage, we - gazed had about it something kindly and prepossessing. Did we love - them because, from being hunted by our kind, and ostracized from - communities of men, we had come to regard them as our homes? I - cannot tell, but I shall ever and forever remember them. Ah, had I - but space, how I would revel in descriptions of their treasures and - their delights! Even with their gad-flies and their tsetsé, their - mosquitoes and their ants, I love them. There was no treachery or - guile in their honest depths; the lurking assassin feared their - twilight gloom; the savage dared not penetrate their shades without - a feeling of horror; but to us they were refuges in our distress, - and their solitudes healed our woes. How true the words, - 'Affliction cometh not out of the dust, nor doth trouble spring out - of the ground.' Innocence and peace dwelt in the wilderness alone. - Outside of these retreats glared the fierce-eyed savage, with - malice and rage in his heart, and deadly weapons in his hand. - - "To us, then, these untenanted islets, with their 'breadths of - tropic shade, and palms in clusters,' seemed verily 'knots of - paradise.' Like hunted beasts of the chase, we sought the gloom and - solitudes of the wilds. Along the meandering and embowered creeks, - hugging the shadows of the o'erarching woods, we sought for that - safety which man refused us. - - "The great river grew sealike in breadth below Irebu on the morning - of the 24th; indeed, it might have been one hundred miles in - breadth for aught we knew, deep-buried as we were among the - islands. Yet there were broad and deep channels on every side of - us, as well as narrow creeks between lengthy islands. The volume of - water appeared exhaustless, though distributed over such an - enormous width. There was water sufficient to float the most - powerful steamers that float in the Mississippi. Here and there - among the verdured isles gleamed broad humps of white sand, but on - either side were streams several hundred yards wide, with as much - as three fathoms' depth of water in the channels. - - "At noon we reached south latitude 1° 37' 22". The Mompurengi - natives appeared on an island and expressed their feelings by - discharging two guns at us, which we did not resent, but steadily - held on our way. An hour afterwards faithful Amina, wife of - Kachéché, breathed her last, making a most affecting end. - - "Being told by Kachéché that his poor wife was dying, I drew my - boat alongside of the canoe she was lying in. She was quite - sensible, but very weak. 'Ah, master,' she said, 'I shall never see - the sea again. Your child Amina is dying. I have so wished to see - the cocoanuts and the mangoes; but no; Amina is dying--dying in a - pagan land. She will never see Zanzibar. The master has been good - to his children, and Amina remembers it. It is a bad world, master, - and you have lost your way in it. Good-bye, master; do not forget - poor little Amina!' - - "While floating down we dressed Amina in her shroud, and laid her - tenderly out, and at sunset consigned her body to the depths of the - silent river. - - "The morning of the 25th saw us once again on the broad stream - floating down. We got a view of the mainland to the right, and - discovered it to be very low. We hurried away into the island - creeks, and floated down among many reedy, grassy islets, the haunt - of bold hippopotami, one of which made a rush at a canoe with open - mouth, but contented himself fortunately with a paddle, which he - crunched into splinters. - - "On the 26th the grassy islets became more frequent, inhabited by - the flamingo, pelican, stork, whydahs, ibis, geese, ducks, etc. The - salt-makers find a great source of wealth in the grasses, and the - smoke of their fires floated over the country in clouds. - - "At 10 A.M. the Levy Hills rose into view about two miles beyond - the river, on the left bank, which as we neared Kutumpuku - approached the river, and formed a ridge. Instantly the sight of - the approaching hills suggested cataracts, and the memories of the - terrible struggles we had undergone in passing the Stanley Falls - were then brought vividly to our mind. What should we do with our - sadly weakened force, were we to experience the same horrible - scenes again? - - "At noon I took an observation, and ascertained that we were in - south latitude 2° 23' 14". Edging off towards the right bank, we - came to a creek, which, from the immense number of those amphibious - animals, I have called 'Hippopotamus Creek.' Grass-covered islets, - innumerable to us as we passed by them, were on either side. When - about half-way through this creek we encountered seven canoes, - loaded with men, about to proceed to their fishing haunts. Our - sudden meeting occasioned a panic among the natives, and as man had - hitherto been a dreaded object, it occasioned us also not a little - uneasiness. Fortunately, however, they retreated in haste, uttering - their fearful 'Yaha-ha-has,' and we steadily pursued our way down - river, and about 3 P.M. emerged in view of the united stream, four - thousand yards wide, contracted by the steep cultivated slopes of - Bolobo on the left, and by a beautiful high upland--which had - gradually been lifting from the level plains--on the right bank. - - "For a moment, as we issued in view of the stream, with scores of - native canoes passing backward and forward, either fishing or - proceeding to the grassy islets to their fish-sheds and - salt-making, we feared that we should have another conflict; but - though they looked at us wonderingly, there was no demonstration of - hostility. One man in a canoe, in answer to our question, replied - that the bold heights two hundred feet above the river, which - swarmed with villages, was Bolobo. Being so near the border of the - savage lands above, we thought it safer to wait yet one more day - before attempting further intercourse with them. - - "On the 27th, during the morning, we were still among islets and - waving branches, but towards the afternoon the islets had - disappeared, and we were in view of a magnificent breadth of four - miles of clear water. On our left the cultivated uplands of Bolobo - had become elevated into a line of wooded hills, and on our right - the wall of the brown, grassy upland rose high and steep, broken - against the sky-line into cones. - - "Gradually the shores contracted, until at 3 P.M. the right bank - deflected to a southeast course, and finally shot out a long rocky - point, which to us, accustomed to an enormous breadth of river, - appeared as though it were the commencement of a cataract. We - approached it with the utmost caution, but on arriving near it we - discovered that the mirage had exaggerated its length and height, - for between it and the left bank were at least two thousand five - hundred yards of deep water. - - "The time had now come when we could no longer sneak among reedy - islets, or wander in secret among wildernesses of water; we must - once more confront man. The native, as we had ascertained opposite - Bolobo, was not the destructive infuriate of Irebu or Mompurengi, - or the frantic brute of Mangala and Marunja. He appeared to be - toning down into the MAN, and to understand that others of his - species inhabited this globe. At least, we hoped so. We wished to - test the accuracy of this belief, and now eagerly searched for - opportunities to exchange greetings, and to claim kindred with him. - As we had industriously collected a copious vocabulary of African - languages, we felt a certain confidence that we had been - sufficiently initiated into the science of aboriginal language to - be able to begin practising it. - - "Behind the rocky point were three natives fishing for minnows with - hand-nets. We lay to on our oars and accosted them. They replied to - us clearly and calmly. There was none of that fierce fluster and - bluster and wild excitement that we had come to recognize as the - preliminary symptoms of a conflict. The word _ndu_--brother--was - more frequent. To our overtures of friendship there was a visible - inclination of assent; there was a manifest desire to accept our - conciliatory sentiments; for we received conciliatory responses. - Who could doubt a pacific conclusion to the negotiations? Our tact - and diplomacy had been educated in a rough school of adversity. - Once the attention of the natives had been arrested, and their - confidence obtained, we had never failed to come to a friendly - understanding. - - [Illustration: ENCOUNTER WITH A HIPPOPOTAMUS.] - - "They showed us a camping-place at the base of the brown, grassy - upland, in the midst of a thin grove of trees. They readily - subscribed to all the requirements of friendship, - blood-brotherhood, and an exchange of a few small gifts. Two of - them then crossed the river to Chumbiri, whose green, wooded slopes - and fields, and villages and landing-place, were visible, to tell - the King of Chumbiri that peaceable strangers desired friendship - with him. They appeared to have described us to him as most - engaging people, and to have obtained his cordial co-operation and - sympathy in a very short time, for soon three canoes appeared - conveying about forty men, under three of his sons, who bore to us - the royal spear, and several royal gifts, such as palm-wine, a - goat, bananas, and a chicken for myself, and a hearty welcome - from the old king, their father, with the addition of a promise - that he would call himself the next day. - - [Illustration: A PRESENT FROM CHUMBIRI.] - - "About 9 A.M. of the 28th, the king of Chumbiri appeared with - _éclat_. Five canoes filled with musketeers escorted him. - - [Illustration: THE KING OF CHUMBIRI.] - - "Though the sketch below is an admirable likeness of him, it may be - well also to append a verbal description. A small-eyed man of fifty - years or thereabout, with a well-formed nose, but wide nostrils and - thin lips, clean shaved--or rather clean-plucked--with a quiet yet - sociable demeanor, ceremonious and mild-voiced, with the instincts - of a greedy trader cropping out of him at all points, and cunning - beyond measure. The type of his curious hat may be seen on the head - of any Armenian priest. It was formed out of close-plaited - hyphene-palm fibre, sufficiently durable to outlast his life though - he might live a century. From his left shoulder, across his chest, - was suspended the sword of the bill-hook pattern, already described - in the passages about Ikengo. Above his shoulder stood upright the - bristles of an elephant's tail. His hand was armed with a buffalo's - tail, made into a fly-flapper, to whisk mosquitoes and gnats off - the royal face. To his wrist were attached the odds and ends which - the laws of superstition had enjoined upon him, such as - charm-gourds, charm-powders in bits of red and black flannel, and a - collection of wooden antiquities, besides a snuff-gourd and a - parcel of tobacco-leaves. - - [Illustration: GREAT PIPE OF KING OF CHUMBIRI.] - - "The king's people were apparently very loyal and devoted to him, - and his sons showed remarkable submissiveness. The little - snuff-gourd was in constant requisition, and he took immoderate - quantities, inhaling a quarter of a teaspoonful at a time from the - palm of his hand, to which he pressed his poor nose until it seemed - to be forced into his forehead. Immediately after, one of his - filially affectionate children would fill his long chibouque, which - was six feet in length, decorated with brass tacks and tassels of - braided cloth. The bowl was of iron, and large enough to contain - half an ounce of tobacco. He would then take two or three - long-drawn whiffs, until his cheeks were distended like two - hemispheres, and fumigate his charms thoroughly with the smoke. His - sons then relieved him of the pipe--at which he snapped his - fingers--and distended their cheeks into hemispherical - protuberances in like manner, and also in the same way fumigated - their little charms; and so the chibouque of peace and sociability - went the round of the circle, as though it were a council of Sioux - about to hold a pow-wow, and as the pipe passed round there was an - interchange of finger-snaps in a decorous, grave, and ceremonious - style. - - "Our intercourse with the king was very friendly, and it was - apparent that we were mutually pleased. The only fault that I, as a - stranger, could find in him was an excessive cunning, which - approached to the sublime. He had evidently cultivated fraud and - duplicity as an art, yet he was suave and wheedling. Could I - complain? Never were people so willing to be victimized. Had we - been warned that he would victimize us, I do not think that we - should have refused his friendship. - - "An invitation was extended to us to make his own village our home. - We were hungry; and no doubt we were approaching cataracts. It - would be welcome knowledge to know what to expect below in that - broad defile filled by the great river; what peoples, countries, - tribes, villages, rivers we should see; if the tribes were amenable - to reason in the unknown country; if white men had ever been heard - of; if there were cataracts below, and if they were passable. We - accepted the invitation, and crossed the river, drums and double - bell-gongs sounding the peaceful advance of our flotilla upon - Chumbiri. - - "We were proud of our reception by the dames of Chumbiri. Loyal and - submissive to their king, they exhibited kindly attentions to the - strangers. We held a grand market, and won the natives' hearts by - our liberality. Back rations for several days were due to our - people, and, filled with an extravagant delight--even as Frank and - I were--they expended their ration moneys with a recklessness of - consequences which only the novelty of the situation explained. We - had arrived at port, and weather-beaten voyagers are generally free - with their moneys upon such occasions. - - [Illustration: ONE OF THE KING'S WIVES AT CHUMBIRI.] - - "The dames of Chumbiri were worth seeing, even to us, who were - sated with the thousand curious things we had met in our long - travels. They were also pretty, of a rich brown color many of them, - large-eyed, and finely formed, with a graceful curve of shoulder I - had not often observed. But they were slaves of fashion. Six tenths - of the females wore brass collars two inches in diameter; three - tenths had them two and a half inches in diameter; one tenth were - oppressed with collars three inches in diameter; which completely - covered the neck, and nearly reached the shoulder ends. Fancy the - weight of thirty pounds of brass, soldered permanently round the - neck! Yet these oppressed women were the favorite wives of - Chumbiri! And they rejoiced in their oppression! - - "I believe that Chumbiri--who, as I said, was a keen and - enterprising trader, the first aboriginal African that might be - compared to a Parsee--as soon as he obtained any brass wire, melted - it and forged it into brass collars for his wives. That the collars - were not larger may be attributed, perhaps, to his poverty. He - boasted to me he possessed 'four tens' of wives, and each wife was - collared permanently in thick brass. I made a rough calculation, - and I estimated that his wives bore about their necks until death - at least eight hundred pounds of brass; his daughters--he had - six--one hundred and twenty pounds; his favorite female slaves - about two hundred pounds. Add six pounds of brass wire to each wife - and daughter for arm and leg ornaments, and one is astonished to - discover that Chumbiri possesses a portable store of one thousand - three hundred and ninety-six pounds of brass. - - "I asked of Chumbiri what he did with the brass on the neck of a - dead wife. Chumbiri smiled. Cunning rogue; he regarded me - benevolently, as though he loved me for the searching question. - Significantly he drew his finger across his throat. - - "The warriors and young men are distinguished for a characteristic - style of hair-dressing, which belongs to Uyanzi alone. It is - arranged into four separate plaits, two of which overhang the - forehead like lovers' curls. Another special mark of Uyanzi are two - tattooed lines over the forehead. In whatever part of the lower - Livingstone these peculiarities of style may be seen, they are - indubitably Wy-yanzi, or natives of Uyanzi. - - "The country of Uyanzi embraces many small districts, and extends - along the left bank of the great river, from Bolobo, in south - latitude 2° 23' 14", to the confluence of the Ibari Nkutu, or river - of Nkutu, and the Livingstone, in 3° 14' south latitude. The - principal districts are Bolobo, Isangu, Chumbiri, Musevoka, - Misongo, and Ibaka. Opposite is the country of the Bateké, a wilder - tribe than the Wy-yanzi, some of the more eastern of whom are - professed cannibals. To the north is the cannibal tribe of the - Wanfuninga, of ferocious repute, and dreaded by the Wy-yanzi and - Bateké. - - "On the 7th of March we parted from the friendly king of Chumbiri, - with an escort of forty-five men, in three canoes, under the - leadership of his eldest son, who was instructed by his father to - accompany us as far as the pool, now called Stanley Pool, because - of an incident which will be described hereafter. - - "For some reason we crossed the river, and camped on the right - bank, two miles below Chumbiri. At midnight the Wy-yanzi awoke us - all by the fervor with which they employed their fetishes to guide - us safely from camp to camp, which they named. As they had been - very successful in charming away the rain with which we had been - threatened the evening before, our people were delighted to hear - them pray for success, having implicit faith in them." - - [Illustration: A BOWMAN.] - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - -TREACHERY OF THE KING'S SONS.--THE GREATEST RASCAL OF AFRICA.--A PYTHON -IN CAMP.--STANLEY POOL.--DOVER CLIFFS.--MANKONEH.--FIRST SOUND OF THE -FALLS.--BARGAINING FOR FOOD.--LOSS OF THE BIG GOAT.--EXCHANGING -CHARMS.--FALL OF THE CONGO FROM NYANGWÉ TO STANLEY POOL.--GOING AROUND -THE GREAT FALL.--DRAGGING THE BOATS OVERLAND.--GORDON-BENNET -RIVER.--"THE CALDRON."--LOSS OF THE _LONDON TOWN_.--POOR KALULU.--HIS -DEATH IN THE RIVER.--LOSS OF MEN BY DROWNING.--SAD SCENES IN CAMP. - - -"The sons of the King of Chumbiri," said Frank, "proved treacherous. -Soon after starting they lagged behind, and the explorers continued -without them. Nothing of importance occurred during the day, and the -camp was made for the night in a dense forest near the bank of the -river. Hardly had the explorers landed before loud shrieks were heard -from a boy who narrowly escaped being eaten by a python. Half an hour -later the same python, or another, was found in another part of the camp -trying to throw his folds about one of the women. There was great -excitement, and the snake was promptly killed. He measured thirteen feet -six inches in length, and was fifteen inches around the thickest part of -the body. - -[Illustration: SON OF THE KING OF CHUMBIRI.] - -"The next morning, just as they were preparing breakfast, they were -attacked by a party of savages who opened fire upon them with muskets. -Fourteen of Mr. Stanley's men were wounded before the assailants were -put to flight; when the expedition continued on its journey it was found -that their camping-place had been about two miles above the village to -which their assailants belonged. All the warriors of the village came -out to the bank of the river with their muskets and spears, but the -travellers kept at a safe distance and were not harmed. The sons of the -king came up with them shortly afterwards, but made such extraordinary -demands for escorting the party to the falls that the explorer concluded -to go along without them. He gives it as his opinion that this -oily-tongued king is the greatest rascal in all Africa. - -[Illustration: A PYTHON IN AN AFRICAN FOREST.] - -"And now," said Frank, "I will read to you about the approach to the -famous falls of the lower Congo. - - "About 11 A.M. of the 12th the river gradually expanded from - fourteen hundred to twenty-five hundred yards, which admitted us in - view of a mighty breadth of river, which the men at once, with - happy appropriateness, termed 'a pool.' Sandy islands rose in front - of us like a sea-beach, and on the right towered a long row of - cliffs, white and glistening, so like the cliffs of Dover that - Frank at once exclaimed that it was a bit of England. The grassy - table-land above the cliffs appeared as green as a lawn, and so - much reminded Frank of Kentish Downs that he exclaimed - enthusiastically, 'I feel we are nearing home.' - - "While I was taking an observation at noon of the position, Frank, - with my glass in his hand, ascended the highest part of the large - sandy dune that had been deposited by the mighty river, and took a - survey of its strange and sudden expansion, and after he came back - he said, 'Why, I declare, sir, this place is just like a pool; as - broad as it is long. There are mountains all round it, and it - appears to me almost circular.'[10] - - [10] "Frank described the crater of an extinct volcano, which is - six miles in length and four miles wide, as set forth more in - detail subsequently." - - "'Well, if it is a pool, we must distinguish it by some name. Give - me a suitable name for it, Frank.' - - "'Why not call it "Stanley Pool," and these cliffs Dover Cliffs? - For no traveller who may come here again will fail to recognize the - cliffs by that name.' - - [Illustration: THE NORTHERN END OF STANLEY POOL.] - - "Subsequent events brought these words vividly to my recollection, - and in accordance with Frank's suggestion I have named this - lakelike expansion of the river from Dover Cliffs to the first - cataract of the Livingstone Falls--embracing about thirty square - miles--the Stanley Pool. The latitude of the entrance from above to - the pool was ascertained to be 4° 3' south. - - "The left shore is occupied by the populous settlements of Nshasa, - Nkunda, and Ntamo. The right is inhabited by the wild Bateké, who - are generally accused of being cannibals. - - [Illustration: MAP OF STANLEY POOL.] - - "Soon after we began our descent of the pool, skirting the right - shore, we observed a chalky mount, near which were two or three - columns of the same material. From a cove just below emerged two or - three Bateké canoes, the crews of which, after collecting their - faculties, consented to show us the cataract, the noise of which, - as they attempted to describe it, elicited roars of laughter from - the members of the expedition. This outburst of loud merriment - conquered all reluctance on the part of the Bateké to accompany us. - - "After winding in and out of many creeks which were very shallow, - we approached the village of Mankoneh, the chief of the Bateké. His - people during the daytime are generally scattered over these sandy - dunes of the Stanley Pool attending to their nets and fish-snares, - and to protect themselves from the hot sun always take with them - several large mats to form sheds. Mankoneh, to our great delight, - was a bluff, hearty, genial soul, who expressed unbounded pleasure - at seeing us; he also volunteered to guide us to the falls. He was - curious to know how we proposed travelling after arriving near - them, for it was impossible, he said, to descend the falls. By a - ludicrous pantomime he led us to understand that they were - something very fearful. - - "A few hundred yards below his village the pool sharply contracted, - and the shore of Ntamo--a projecting point from the crescent-shaped - ridge beyond--appeared at a distance of two thousand yards. It was - then that we heard for the first time the low and sullen thunder of - the first cataract of the Livingstone Falls. - - "Slowly Mankoneh, in his canoe, glided down towards it, and louder - it grew on the ears, until when within one hundred yards of the - first line of broken water, he pointed forward and warned us not to - proceed farther. We made for the shore, and found ourselves on a - narrow, ledgelike terrace bristling with great blocks of granite, - amid a jungly tangle, which grew at the base of high hills. Here, - after a short busy period with axe and machete, we constructed a - rude camp. The only level spot was not six feet square. - - "Mankoneh, the Bateké chief, pointed out to us the village of Itsi, - the chief of Ntamo, which is situated on the left bank, in a line - with the beginning of the first cataract, and spoke of Itsi with - great respect, as though he were very powerful. - - "About 5 P.M. a small canoe was observed to cross over to our side - from the left bank, a mile above the falls. The canoe-men, through - the representations of our hearty friend Mankoneh, were soon - induced to land in our camp to converse with the white men, and - before long we had succeeded in making them feel quite at home with - us. As they were in a quiver of anxious desire to impart to the - chief Itsi all the wonderful things they had witnessed with us, - they departed about sunset, solemnly promising we should see the - famous Itsi of Ntamo next morning. - - "Lashing our canoes firmly lest an accident should happen during - the night, we turned to our rude huts to sleep in peace. We were - all very hungry, as we had been able to purchase nothing from the - natives since leaving Chumbiri five days before, and we had been - more than usually improvident, having placed far too much reliance - on the representations so profusely made to us by the mild-voiced - but cunning king of Chumbiri. From very shame I refrain from - publishing the stores of goods with which I purchased the glib - promises of assistance from Chumbiri, not one of which was - realized. - - [Illustration: ONE OF THE KING'S WARRIORS.] - - "Morning of the 13th of March found us, from the early hours of - dawn, anxiously waiting the arrival of Itsi of Ntamo and the - reappearance of Mankoneh. From our camp we might easily with a - glass note any movement on the other bank. At 9 A.M.--Itsi - evidently was not an early riser--a large canoe and two consorts, - laden with men, were seen propelled up stream along the left bank, - and, a mile above the landing-place, to cross the river at a - furious pace. The rows of upright figures, with long paddles, - bending their bodies forward in unison, and their voices rising in - a swelling chorus to the sound of the steady beat of a large drum, - formed a pretty and inspiring sight. Arriving at the right bank, - with a perfect recklessness of the vicinity of the falls, they - dashed down towards our camp at the rate of six knots an hour. The - large war-canoe, though not quite equal to the monster of the - Aruwimi in size, was a noble vessel, and Itsi, who was seated in - state 'midship,' with several gray-headed elders near him, was - conscious, when he saw our admiration, that he had created a - favorable impression. She measured eighty-five feet seven inches in - length, four feet in width, and was three feet three inches deep. - Her crew consisted of sixty paddlers and four steersmen, and she - carried twenty-two passengers, close-packed, besides, making a - total of eighty-six persons. The other two canoes carried - ninety-two persons altogether. - - "We cordially invited Itsi and his people to our camp, to which - they willingly responded. Some grass, fresh cut, in anticipation of - the visit of our honorable friends, had been strewn over a cleared - space close to the stream, and our best mats spread over it. - - [Illustration: AFRICAN RECLINING-CHAIR.] - - "There were four or five gray-headed elders present, one of whom - was introduced as Itsi. He laughed heartily, and it was not long - before we were on a familiar footing. They then broached the - subject of blood-brotherhood. We were willing, but they wished to - defer the ceremony until they had first shown their friendly - feelings to us. Accordingly the old man handed over to me ten - loaves of cassava bread, or cassava pudding, fifty tubers of - cassava, three bunches of bananas, a dozen sweet potatoes, some - sugar-cane, three fowls, and a diminutive goat. A young man of - about twenty-six years made Frank's acquaintance by presenting to - him double the quantity I received. This liberality drew my - attention to him. His face was dotted with round spots of - soot-and-oil mixture. From his shoulders depended a long cloth of - check pattern, while over one shoulder was a belt, to which was - attached a queer medley of small gourds containing snuff and - various charms, which he called his Inkisi. In return for the - bounteous store of provisions given to Frank and myself, as they - were cotton or grass-cloth-wearing people, we made up a bundle of - cloths for each of the principals, which they refused, to our - surprise. We then begged to know what they desired, that we might - show our appreciation of their kindness, and seal the bond of - brotherhood with our blood. - - "The young man now declared himself to be Itsi, the King of Ntamo; - the elder, who had previously been passed off for the king, being - only an ancient councillor. It was a surprise, but not an - unpleasant one, though there was nothing very regal or majestic - about him, unless one may so call his munificent bounty to Frank as - compared to the old man's to me. We finally prevailed upon Itsi to - inform us what gift would be pleasing to him. - - "He said, 'I want only that big goat; if you give me that, I shall - want nothing more.' - - [Illustration: A PRESENT FROM ITSI.] - - "The 'big goat' which he so earnestly required was the last of six - couples I had purchased in Uregga for the purpose of presentation - to an eminent English lady, in accordance with a promise I had made - to her four years previously. All the others had perished from heat - apoplexy, sickness, and want of proper care, which the terrible - life we had led had prevented us from supplying. This 'big goat' - and a lionlike ram, gigantic specimens of the domestic animals of - Manyema and Uregga, were all that survived. They had both become - quite attached to us, and were valued companions of a most eventful - journey of eleven hundred miles. I refused it, but offered to - double the cloths. Whereupon Itsi sulked, and prepared to depart; - not, however, before hinting that we should find it difficult to - obtain food if he vetoed the sale of provisions. We coaxed him back - again to his seat, and offered him one of the asses. The possession - of such a 'gigantic' animal as an ass, which was to him of all - domestic animals a veritable Titanosaurus, was a great temptation; - but the shuddering women, who feared being eaten by it, caused him - to decline the honor of the gift. He now offered three goats for - what appeared to him to be the 'largest' goat in Africa, and - boasted of his goodness, and how his friendship would be - serviceable to me; whereas, if he parted in anger, why, we should - be entirely at his mercy. The goat was therefore transferred to his - canoe, and Itsi departed for Ntamo, as though he were in possession - of a new wonder. - - "Our provisions were only sufficient to prove what appetites we - possessed, and not to assuage them; all were consumed in a few - minutes, and we were left with only hopes of obtaining a little - more on the next day. - - "On the 14th Itsi appeared with his war-canoe at 9 A.M., bringing - three goats and twenty loaves of cassava bread and a few tubers, - and an hour afterwards Nchuvira, King of Nkunda, Mankoneh, chief of - the Bateké fishermen near the Stanley Pool, and the King of Nshasa, - at the southeast end of the Stanley Pool, arrived at our camp with - several canoe crews. Each of the petty sovereigns of the districts - in our neighborhood contributed a little, but altogether we were - only able to distribute to each person two pounds of eatable - provisions. Every chief was eager for a present, with which he was - gratified, and solemn covenants of peace were entered into between - the whites and the blacks. The treaty with Itsi was exceedingly - ceremonious, and involved the exchange of charms. Itsi transferred - to me, for my protection through life, a small gourdful of a - curious powder, which had rather a saline taste, and I delivered - over to him, as the white man's charm against all evil, a - half-ounce vial of magnesia; further, a small scratch in Frank's - arm, and another in Itsi's arm, supplied blood sufficient to unite - us in one and indivisible bond of fraternity. After this we were - left alone. - - "An observation by boiling-point, above the first cataract of - Livingstone Falls, disclosed to us an altitude of 1147 feet above - the ocean. At Nyangwé the river was 2077 feet. In twelve hundred - and thirty-five miles, therefore, there had been only a reduction - of 930 feet, divided as follows: - - Distance - Feet. in miles. Fall per mile. - - Nyangé 2077 } - Four miles below seventh cataract, } - Stanley Falls 1511 } - ---- } 337 20 inches. - Feet, 566 } - - Four miles below seventh cataract, - Stanley Falls 1511 } - River at Ntamo, above first cataract, } - Livingstone Falls 1147 } 898 5 inches, - ---- } River nearly. - Feet, 364 } uninterrupted." - -Frank paused a few moments, and, at the request of one of his auditors, -repeated the figures he had just given. Then he continued the narrative -as follows: - - "The wide wild land which, by means of the greatest river of - Africa, we have pierced, is now about to be presented in a milder - aspect than that which has filled the preceding pages with records - of desperate conflicts and furious onslaughts of savage men. The - people no longer resist our advance. Trade has tamed their natural - ferocity, until they no longer resent our approach with the fury of - beasts of prey. - - [Illustration: FLOATING ISLAND IN STANLEY POOL.] - - "It is the dread river itself of which we shall have now to - complain. It is no longer the stately stream, whose mystic beauty, - noble grandeur, and gentle, uninterrupted flow along a course of - nearly nine hundred miles ever fascinated us, despite the savagery - of its peopled shores, but a furious river, rushing down a steep - bed obstructed by reefs of lava, projected barriers of rock, lines - of immense boulders, winding in crooked course through deep chasms, - and dropping down over terraces in a long series of falls, - cataracts, and rapids. Our frequent contests with the savages - culminated in tragic struggles with the mighty river as it rushed - and roared through the deep, yawning pass that leads from the broad - table-land down to the Atlantic Ocean. - - "Those voiceless and lone streams meandering between the thousand - isles of the Livingstone; those calm and silent wildernesses of - water over which we had poured our griefs and wailed in our sorrow; - those woody solitudes where nightly we had sought to soothe our - fevered brows, into whose depths we breathed our vows; that sealike - amplitude of water which had proved our refuge in distress, weird - in its stillness, and solemn in its mystery, are now exchanged for - the cliff-lined gorge, through which with inconceivable fury the - Livingstone sweeps with foaming billows into the broad Congo, - which, at a distance of only one hundred and fifty-five - geographical miles, is nearly eleven hundred feet below the summit - of the first fall. - - [Illustration: VILLAGE IN THE VALLEY OF THE CONGO.] - - "On the 16th of March, having explored as far as the Gordon-Bennett - River, and obtained a clear idea of our situation during the 15th, - we began our labors with energy. Goods, asses, women, and children, - with the guard under Frank, first moved overland to a temporary - halting-place near the confluence. Then, manning the boat, I led - the canoe-men from point to point along the right bank, over the - first rapids. We had some skilful work to perform to avoid being - swept away by the velocity of the current; but whenever we came to - rocks we held the rattan hawsers in our hands, and, allowing the - stream to take them beyond these dangerous points, brought them - into the sheltered lee. Had a hawser parted nothing could have - saved the canoe or the men in it, for at the confluence of the - Gordon-Bennett with the great river the entire river leaps headlong - into an abysm of waves and foam. Arriving in the Gordon-Bennett, - we transported the expedition across, and then our labors ended at - 5 P.M. for the day. - - [Illustration: NATIVE POTTERY.] - - "Itsi of Ntamo had informed us there were only three cataracts, - which he called the 'Child,' the 'Mother,' and the 'Father.' The - 'Child' was a two hundred yards' stretch of broken water; and the - 'Mother,' consisting of half a mile of dangerous rapids, we had - succeeded in passing, and had pushed beyond it by crossing the - upper branch of the Gordon-Bennett, which was an impetuous stream, - seventy-five yards wide, with big cataracts of its own higher up. - But the 'Father' is the wildest stretch of river that I have ever - seen. Take a strip of sea blown over by a hurricane, four miles in - length and half a mile in breadth, and a pretty accurate conception - of its leaping waves may be obtained. Some of the troughs were one - hundred yards in length, and from one to the other the mad river - plunged. There was first a rush down into the bottom of an immense - trough, and then, by its sheer force, the enormous volume would - lift itself upward steeply until, gathering itself into a ridge, it - suddenly hurled itself twenty or thirty feet straight upward, - before rolling down into another trough. If I looked up or down - along this angry scene, every interval of fifty or one hundred - yards of it was marked by wave-towers--their collapse into foam and - spray, the mad clash of watery hills, bounding mounds, and heaving - billows, while the base of either bank, consisting of a long line - of piled boulders of massive size, was buried in the tempestuous - surf. The roar was tremendous and deafening. I can only compare it - to the thunder of an express train through a rock tunnel. To speak - to my neighbor, I had to bawl in his ear. - - "The most powerful ocean steamer, going at full speed on this - portion of the river, would be as helpless as a cockle-boat. I - attempted three times, by watching some tree floated down from - above, to ascertain the rate of the wild current by observing the - time it occupied in passing between two given points, from which I - estimate it to be about thirty miles an hour! - - [Illustration: VIEW OF THE RIGHT BRANCH, FIRST CATARACT, OF THE - LIVINGSTONE FALLS, FROM FOUR MILES BELOW JUMBA ISLAND.] - - "On the 17th, after cutting brushwood and laying it over a path of - eight hundred yards in length, we crossed from the upper branch of - the Gordon-Bennett to the lower branch, which was of equal breadth, - but twenty feet below it. This enabled us the next day to float - down to the confluence of the lower branch with the Livingstone. - We could do no more on this day; the people were fainting from lack - of food. - - "On the 18th, through the good-will of Mankoneh, the chief of the - Bateké, we were enabled to trade with the aborigines, a wild and - degraded tribe, subsisting principally on fish and cassava. A goat - was not to be obtained at any price, and for a chicken they - demanded a gun! Cassava, however, was abundant. - - "From the confluence we formed another brush-covered road, and - hauled the canoes over another eight hundred yards into a creek, - which enabled us to reach, on the 20th, a wide sand-bar that - blocked its passage into the great river. The sand-bar, in its - turn, enabled us to reach the now moderated stream, below the - influence of the roaring 'Father,' and to proceed by towing and - punting half a mile below to an inlet in the rocky shore. - - "Gampa, the young chief of this district, became very friendly, and - visited us each day with small gifts of cassava bread, a few - bananas, and a small gourd of palm-wine. - - "On the 21st and the two days following we were engaged in hauling - our vessels overland, a distance of three quarters of a mile, over - a broad rocky point, into a baylike formation. Gampa and his people - nerved us to prosecute our labors by declaring that there was only - one small cataract below. Full of hope, we halted on the 24th to - rest the wearied people, and in the meantime to trade for food. - - [Illustration: OVER ROCKY POINT CLOSE TO GAMPA'S.] - - "The 25th saw us at work at dawn in a bad piece of river, which is - significantly styled the 'Caldron.' Our best canoe, seventy-five - feet long, three feet wide, by twenty-one inches deep, the famous - _London Town_, commanded by Manwa Sera, was torn from the hands of - fifty men, and swept away in the early morning down to destruction. - In the afternoon, the _Glasgow_, parting her cables, was swept - away, drawn nearly into mid-river, returned up river half a mile, - again drawn into the depths, ejected into a bay near where Frank - was camped, and, to our great joy, finally recovered. Accidents - were numerous; the glazed trap-rocks, washed by the ever-rising - tidal-like waves, were very slippery, occasioning dangerous falls - to the men. One man dislocated his shoulder, another was bruised on - the hips, and another had a severe contusion of the head. Too - careless of my safety in my eagerness and anxiety, I fell down, - feet first, into a chasm thirty feet deep between two enormous - boulders, but fortunately escaped with only a few rib bruises, - though for a short time I was half stunned. - - [Illustration: AT WORK PASSING THE LOWER END OF THE FIRST CATARACT - OF THE LIVINGSTONE FALLS, NEAR ROCKY ISLAND.] - - "On the 27th we happily succeeded in passing the fearful Caldron, - but during our last efforts the _Crocodile_, eighty-five feet three - inches long, was swept away into the centre of the Caldron, heaved - upward, whirled round with quick gyrations, and finally shot into - the bay north of Rocky Island, where it was at last secured. The - next day we dropped down stream, and reached the western end of the - bay above Rocky Island Falls. - - "Leaving Frank Pocock as usual in charge of the camp and goods, I - mustered ninety men--most of the others being stiff from wounds - received in the fight at Mwana Ibaka and other places--and - proceeded, by making a wooden tramway with sleepers and rollers, to - pass Rocky Island Falls. Mpwapwa and Shumari, of the boat's crew, - were sent to explore, meanwhile, for another inlet or recess in the - right bank. By 2 P.M. we were below the falls, and my two young men - had returned, reporting that a mile or so below there was a fine - camp, with a broad strip of sand lining a bay. This animated us to - improve the afternoon hours by attemtping to reach it. The - seventeen canoes now left to us were manned according to their - capacity. As I was about to embark in my boat to lead the way, I - turned to the people to give my last instructions--which were, to - follow me, clinging to the right bank, and by no means to venture - into mid-river into the current. While delivering my instructions, - I observed Kalulu in the _Crocodile_, which was made out of the - _Bassia Parkii_ tree, a hard, heavy wood, but admirable for canoes. - When I asked him what he wanted in the canoe, he replied, with a - deprecating smile and an expostulating tone, 'I can pull, sir; - see!' 'Ah, very well,' I answered. - - "The boat-boys took their seats, and, skirting closely the cliffy - shore, we rowed down stream, while I stood in the bow of the boat, - guiding the coxswain, Uledi, with my hand. The river was not more - than four hundred and fifty yards wide; but one cast of the - sounding-lead close to the bank obtained a depth of one hundred and - thirty-eight feet. The river was rapid, with certainly a seven-knot - current, with a smooth, greasy surface, now and then an eddy, a - gurgle, and gentle heave, but not dangerous to people in possession - of their wits. In a very few moments we had descended the mile - stretch, and before us, six hundred yards off, roared the furious - falls since distinguished by the name 'Kalulu.' - - [Illustration: AFRICAN PIPES.] - - "With a little effort we succeeded in rounding the point and - entering the bay above the falls, and reaching a pretty - camping-place on a sandy beach. The first, second, and third canoes - arrived soon after me, and I was beginning to congratulate myself - on having completed a good day's work, when to my horror I saw the - _Crocodile_ in mid-river far below the point which we had rounded, - gliding with the speed of an arrow towards the falls over the - treacherous calm water. Human strength availed nothing now, and we - watched in agony, for I had three favorites in her--Kalulu, - Mauredi, and Ferajji; and of the others, two, Rehani Makua and Wadi - Jumah, were also very good men. It soon reached the island which - cleft the falls, and was swept down the left branch. We saw it - whirled round three or four times, then plunged down into the - depths, out of which the stern presently emerged pointed upward, - and we knew then that Kalulu and his canoe-mates were no more. - - [Illustration: DEATH OF KALULU.] - - "Fast upon this terrible catastrophe, before we could begin to - bewail their loss, another canoe with two men in it darted past the - point, borne by irresistibly on the placid but swift current to - apparent, nay, almost certain destruction. I despatched my boat's - crew up along the cliffs to warn the forgetful people that in - mid-stream was certain death, and shouted out commands for the two - men to strike for the left shore. The steersman by a strange chance - shot his canoe over the falls, and, dexterously edging it towards - the left shore a mile below, he and his companion contrived to - spring ashore and were saved. As we observed them clamber over the - rocks to approach a point opposite us, and finally sit down - regarding us in silence across the river, our pity and love gushed - strong towards them, but we could utter nothing of it. The roar of - the falls completely mocked and overpowered the feeble human voice. - - "Before the boat's crew could well reach the descending canoes, the - boulders being very large and offering great obstacles to rapid - progress, a third canoe--but a small and light one--with only one - man, the brave lad Soudi, who escaped from the spears of the - Wanyaturu assassins in 1875, darted by, and cried out, as he - perceived himself to be drifting helplessly towards the falls, 'La - il Allah, il Allah'--There is but one God--'I am lost! Master!' He - was then seen to address himself to what fate had in store for him. - We watched him for a few moments, and then saw him drop. Out of the - shadow of the fall he presently emerged, dropping from terrace to - terrace, precipitated down, then whirled round, caught by great - heavy waves, which whisked him to right and left and struck madly - at him, and yet his canoe did not sink, but he and it were swept - behind the lower end of the island, and then darkness fell upon the - day of horror. Nine men lost in one afternoon! - - "This last accident, I was told, was caused by the faithlessness of - the crew. One man, utterly unnerved by his fear of the river, ran - away and hid in the bushes; the two others lost their hold of the - tow-ropes, and thus their comrade was carried into the swift - centre." - -Frank stopped at this incident, and said he would resume the story in -the evening. His audience had listened with breathless interest to the -sad story of the death of Kalulu and his companions, and when the party -assembled for the evening session, all were eager to hear the -continuation of the account of Stanley's perilous descent of the Congo. - -[Illustration: ONE OF GAMPA'S MEN.] - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - -THE FRIENDLY BATEKÉ.--GREAT SNAKES.--SOUDI'S STRANGE -ADVENTURES.--CAPTURED BY HOSTILE NATIVES.--DESCENDING RAPIDS AND -FALLS.--LOSS OF A CANOE.--"WHIRLPOOL RAPIDS."--THE _LADY ALICE_ IN -PERIL.--GAVUBU'S COVE.--"LADY ALICE" RAPIDS.--A PERILOUS DESCENT.--ALARM -OF STANLEY'S PEOPLE.--TRIBUTARY STREAMS.--PANIC AMONG THE -CANOE-MEN.--NATIVE VILLAGES.--INKISI FALLS.--TUCKEY'S CATARACT.--A ROAD -OVER A MOUNTAIN.--AMONG THE BABWENDÉ.--AFRICAN MARKETS.--TRADING AMONG -THE TRIBES.--SHOELESS TRAVELLERS.--EXPERIMENTS IN COOKING.--LIMITED -STOCK OF PROVISIONS.--CENTRAL AFRICAN ANTS.--"JIGGAS."--DANGERS OF -UNPROTECTED FEET. - - -Promptly at the hour all were in their places. Frank was ready with the -opened book, from which he read: - - "On the 30th of March a messenger was despatched to Frank to - superintend the transport of the goods overland to where I had - arrived with the boat. The natives continued to be very amiable, - and food was abundant and cheap. They visited our camp from morning - to night, bringing their produce from a great distance. They are a - very gentle and harmless tribe, the western Bateké, and - distinguishable by four cicatrices down each cheek. They are also - remarkable for their numerous bird-snares--bird-lime being - furnished by the _Ficus sycamorus_--and traps. About sunset a - wide-spreading flock of large birds like parrots passed northeast - over our camp, occupying nearly half an hour in passing. They were - at too great an altitude to be recognized. Lead-colored - water-snakes were very numerous, the largest being about seven feet - in length and two and one half inches in diameter. - - [Illustration: VILLAGE IDOLS.] - - "Confined within the deep, narrow valley of the river, the hills - rising to the height of about eight hundred feet above us, and - exposed to the continued uproar of the river, we became almost - stunned during our stay of the 31st. - - "On the 1st of April we cleared the Kalulu Fulls, and camped on the - right bank below them. Our two absentees on the left side had - followed us, and were signalling frequently to us, but we were - helpless. The next day we descended a mile and a half of rapids, - and in the passage one more canoe was lost, which reduced our - flotilla to thirteen vessels. - - "About 2 P.M., to the general joy, appeared young Soudi and our two - absentees who the day before had been signalling us from the - opposite side of the river! - - "Soudi's adventures had been very strange. He had been swept down - over the upper and lower Kalulu Falls and the intermediate rapids, - and had been whirled round so often that he became confused. 'But - clinging to my canoe,' he said, 'the wild river carried me down and - down and down, from place to place, sometimes near a rock, and - sometimes near the middle of the stream, until an hour after dark, - when I saw it was near a rock; I jumped out, and, catching my - canoe, drew it on shore. I had scarcely finished when my arms were - seized, and I was bound by two men, who hurried me up to the top of - the mountain, and then for an hour over the high land, until we - came to a village. They then pushed me into a house, where they lit - a fire, and when it was bright they stripped me naked and examined - me. Though I pretended not to understand them, I knew enough to - know that they were proud of their prize. They spoke kindly to me, - and gave me plenty to eat; and while one of them slept, the other - watched sharp lest I should run away. In the morning it was rumored - over the village that a handsome slave was captured from a strange - tribe, and many people came to see me, one of whom had seen us at - Ntamo, and recognized me. This man immediately charged the two men - with having stolen one of the white man's men, and he drew such a - picture of you, master, with large eyes of fire and long hair, who - owned a gun that shot all day, that all the people became - frightened, and compelled the two men to take me back to where they - had found me. They at once returned me my clothes, and brought me - to the place near where I had tied my canoe. They then released me, - saying, "Go to your king; here is food for you; and do not tell him - what we have done to you; but tell him you met friends who saved - you, and it shall be well with us."' - - "The other two men, seeking for means to cross the river, met Soudi - sitting by his canoe. The three became so much encouraged at one - another's presence that they resolved to cross the river rather - than endure further anxiety in a strange land. Despair gave them - courage, and though the river was rapid, they succeeded in - crossing, a mile below the place they had started from, without - accident. - - "On the 3d of April we descended another mile and a half of - dangerous rapids, during which several accidents occurred. One - canoe was upset which contained fifty tusks of ivory and a sack of - beads. Four men had narrow escapes from drowning, but Uledi, my - coxswain, saved them. I myself tumbled headlong into a small basin, - and saved myself with difficulty from being swept away by the - receding tide. - - [Illustration: HILLY REGION BACK FROM THE RIVER.] - - "Our system of progress was to begin each day with Frank leading - the expedition overland to a camp at the head of some inlet, cove, - or recess, near rapids or falls, where, with the older men, women, - and children, he constructed a camp; the working party, consisting - of the younger men, returning to assist me with the canoes down - to the new camp. Anxious for the safety of the people, I - superintended the river work myself, and each day led the way in - the boat. On approaching rapids I selected three or four of the - boat's crew (and always Uledi, the coxswain), and clambered along - the great rocks piled along the base of the steeply sloping hills, - until I had examined the scene. If the rapids or fall were deemed - impassable by water, I planned the shortest and safest route across - the projecting points, and then, mustering the people, strewed a - broad track with bushes, over which, as soon as completed, we set - to work to haul our vessels beyond the dangerous water, when we - lowered them into the river, and pursued our way to camp, where - Frank would be ready to give me welcome, and such a meal as the - country afforded. - - "At Gamfwé's the natives sold us abundance of bread, or rolls of - pudding, of cassava flour, maize, cassava leaves, water-cresses, - and the small Strychnos fruit, and, for the first time, lemons. - Fowls were very dear, and a goat was too expensive a luxury in our - now rapidly impoverishing state. - - "On the 8th we descended from Gamfwé's to 'Whirlpool Narrows,' - opposite Umvilingya. When near there we perceived that the eddy - tides, which rushed up river along the bank, required very delicate - and skilful manoeuvring. I experimented on the boat first, and - attempted to haul her by cables round a rocky point from the bay - near Whirlpool Narrows. Twice they snapped ropes and cables, and - the second time the boat flew up river, borne on the crests of - brown waves, with only Uledi and two men in her. Presently she - wheeled into the bay, following the course of the eddy, and Uledi - brought her in-shore. The third time we tried the operation with - six cables of twisted rattan, about two hundred feet in length, - with five men to each cable. The rocks rose singly in precipitous - masses fifty feet above the river, and this extreme height - increased the difficulty and rendered footing precarious, for - furious eddies of past ages had drilled deep circular pits, like - ovens, in them, four, six, even ten feet deep. However, with the - utmost patience we succeeded in rounding these enormous blocks, and - hauling the boat against the uneasy eddy tide to where the river - resumed its natural downward flow. Below this, as I learned, were - some two miles of boisterous water; but mid-river, though foaming - in places, was not what we considered dangerous. We therefore - resolved to risk it in mid-stream, and the boat's crew, never - backward when they knew what lay in front of them, manned the boat, - and in fifteen minutes we had taken her into a small creek near - Umvilingya's landing, which ran up river between a ridge of rocks - and the right bank. This act instilled courage into the canoe-men, - and the boat-boys having volunteered to act as steersmen, with - Frank as leader, all manned the canoes next morning, and succeeded - in reaching my camp in good time without accident, though one canoe - was taken within two hundred yards of Round Island Falls, between - Isameh's and Umvilingya's. - - "At this place Frank and I treated ourselves to a pig, which we - purchased from the chief Umvilingya for four cloths, we having been - more than two weeks without meat. - - [Illustration: "LADY ALICE" OVER THE FALLS.] - - "On the 10th, having, because of illness, intrusted the boat to - Manwa Sera and Uledi, they managed to get her jammed between two - rocks near the entrance to Gavubu's Cove, and, as the after-section - was sunk for a time, it appeared that the faithful craft would be - lost here after her long and wonderful journey. Springing from my - bed upon hearing of the threatened calamity, I mustered twenty - active men and hastened to the scene, and soon, by inspiring every - man to do his best, we were able to lift her out of her dangerous - position, and take her to camp apparently uninjured. - - [Illustration: NATIVE MILL FOR GRINDING CORN.] - - "The lower end of Gavubu's Cove was reached on the 11th, and the - next day by noon the land party and canoes were taken safely to the - lower end of Garafwé's Bay. As our means were rapidly diminishing - in this protracted struggle we maintained against the natural - obstacles to our journey, we could only hope to reach the sea by - resolute and continual industry during every hour of daylight. I - accordingly instructed the canoe-men to be ready to follow me, as - soon as they should be informed by a messenger that the boat had - safely arrived in camp. - - "The commencement of "Lady Alice" Rapids was marked by a broad - fall, and an interruption to the rapidly rushing river by a narrow - ridgy islet of great rocks, which caused the obstructed stream to - toss its waters in lateral waves against the centre, where they met - waves from the right bank, and overlapping formed a lengthy dyke of - foaming water. - - "Strong cane cables were lashed to the bow and stern, and three men - were detailed to each, while five men assisted me in the boat. A - month's experience of this kind of work had made us skilful and - bold. But the rapids were more powerful, the river was much more - contracted, and the impediments were greater than usual. On our - right was an upright wall of massive boulders terminating in a - narrow terrace three hundred feet high; behind the terrace, at a - little distance, rose the rude hills to the height of twelve - hundred feet above the river; above the hills rolled the - table-land. On our left, four hundred yards from the bouldery wall, - rose a lengthy and stupendous cliff line topped by a broad belt of - forest, and at its base rose three rocky islets, one below another, - against which the river dashed itself, disparting with a roaring - surge. - - "We had scarcely ventured near the top of the rapids when, by a - careless slackening of the stern cable, the current swept the boat - from the hands of that portion of her crew whose duty it was to - lower her carefully and cautiously down the fall, to the narrow - line of ebb-flood below the rocky projection. Away into the centre - of the angry, foaming, billowy stream the boat darted, dragging one - man into the maddened flood, to whom, despite our awful position, - I was able to lend a hand and lift into the boat. - - [Illustration: FALLS ON A TRIBUTARY STREAM.] - - "'Oars, my boys, and be steady! Uledi, to the helm!' were all the - instructions I was able to shout, after which, standing at the bow - of the boat, I guided the coxswain with my hand; for now, as we - rode downward furiously on the crests of the proud waves, the human - voice was weak against the overwhelming thunder of the angry river. - Oars were only useful to assist the helm, for we were flying at a - terrific speed past the series of boulders which strangled the - river. Never did the rocks assume such hardness, such solemn - grimness and bigness, never were they invested with such terrors - and such grandeur of height, as while we were the cruel sport and - prey of the brown-black waves, which whirled us round like a - spinning-top, swung us aside, almost engulfed us in the rapidly - subsiding troughs, and then hurled us upon the white, rageful - crests of others. Ah! with what feelings we regarded this awful - power which the great river had now developed! How we cringed under - its imperious, compelling, and irresistible force! What lightning - retrospects we cast upon our past lives! How impotent we felt - before it! - - "'La il Allah, il Allah!' screamed young Mabruki. 'We are lost! - yes, we are lost!' - - [Illustration: AN UPLAND STREAM AND NATIVE BRIDGE.] - - "After two miles we were abreast of the bay, or indentation, at - which we had hoped to camp, but the strong river mocked our efforts - to gain it. The flood was resolved we should taste the bitterness - of death. A sudden rumbling noise, like the deadened sound of an - earthquake, caused us to look below, and we saw the river heaved - bodily upward, as though a volcano were about to belch around us. - Up to the summit of this watery mound we were impelled; and then, - divining what was about to take place, I shouted out, 'Pull, men, - for your lives!' - - "A few frantic strokes drove us to the lower side of the mound, and - before it had finished subsiding, and had begun its usual fatal - circling, we were precipitated over a small fall, and sweeping down - towards the inlet into which the Nkenké Cataract tumbled, below the - lowest lines of breakers of the Lady Alice Rapids. Once or twice we - were flung scornfully aside, and spun around contemptuously, as - though we were too insignificant to be wrecked; then, availing - ourselves of a calm moment, we resumed our oars, and soon entering - the ebb-tide, rowed up river and reached the sandy beach at the - junction of the Nkenké with the Livingstone. Arriving on shore, I - despatched Uledi and young Shumari to run to meet the despairing - people above, who had long before this been alarmed by the - boat-boys, whose carelessness had brought about this accident, and - by the sympathizing natives who had seen us, as they reported, sink - in the whirlpools. In about an hour a straggling line of anxious - souls appeared; and all that love of life and living things, with - the full sense of the worth of living, returned to my heart, as my - faithful followers rushed up one after another with their exuberant - welcome to life, which gushed out of them in gesture, feature, and - voice. And Frank, my amiable and trusty Frank, was neither last nor - least in his professions of love and sympathy, and gratitude to Him - who had saved us from a watery grave. - - [Illustration: THE NKENKÉ RIVER ENTERING THE LIVINGSTONE BELOW THE - LADY ALICE RAPIDS.] - - "The land party then returned with Frank to remove the goods to our - new camp, and by night my tent was pitched within a hundred yards - of the cataract mouth of the Nkenké. We had four cataracts in view - of us: the great river which emptied itself into the baylike - expanse from the last line of the Lady Alice Rapids; two miles - below, the river fell again, in a foamy line of waves; from the - tall cliff south of us tumbled a river four hundred feet into the - great river; and on our right, one hundred yards off, the Nkenké - rushed down steeply like an enormous cascade from the height of one - thousand feet. - - "Very different was this scene of towering cliffs and lofty - mountain walls, which daily discharged the falling streams from the - vast uplands above and buried us within the deafening chasm, to - that glassy flow of the Livingstone by the black, eerie forests of - Usongora, Meno, and Kasera, and through the upper lands of the - cannibal Wenya, where a single tremulous wave was a rarity. We now, - surrounded by the daily terrors and hope-killing shocks of these - apparently endless cataracts, and the loud boom of their baleful - fury, remembered, with regretful hearts, the Sabbath stillness and - dreamy serenity of those days. Beautiful was it then to glide among - the lazy creeks of the spicy and palm-growing isles, where the - broad-leafed Amomum vied in greenness with the drooping fronds of - the Phrynium, where the myrrh and bdellium shrubs exhaled their - fragrance side by side with the wild cassia, where the capsicum - with its red-hot berries rose in embowering masses, and the - Ipomoea's purple buds gemmed with color the tall stem of some - sturdy tree. Environed by most dismal prospects, forever dinned by - terrific sound, at all points confronted by the most hopeless - outlook, we think that an Eden which we have left behind, and this - a watery hell wherein we now are. - - "Though our involuntary descent of the Lady Alice Rapids from - Gamfwé's Bay to Nkenké River Bay--a distance of three - miles--occupied us but fifteen minutes, it was a work of four days - to lower the canoes by cables. Experience of the vast force of the - flood, and the brittleness of the rattan cables, had compelled us - to fasten eight cables to each canoe, and to detail five men to - each cable for the passage of the rapids. Yet, with all our - precautions, almost each hour was marked with its special accident - to man or canoe. One canoe, with a man named Nubi in it, was torn - from the hands of forty men, swept down two miles, and sunk in the - great whirlpool. Nubi clung to his vessel until taken down a second - time, when he and the canoe were ejected fifty yards apart, but, - being an expert swimmer, he regained it in the Nkenké basin, and - astride of its keel was circling round with the strong ebb-tide, - when he was saved by the dashing Uledi and his young brother - Shumari. - - "While returning to my labors along the bouldery heap which lined - the narrow terrace opposite the islets, I observed another canoe, - which contained the chief Waldi Rehani and two of my boat-bearers, - Chiwonda and Muscati, drifting down helplessly near the verge of - some slack water. The three men were confused, and benumbed with - terror at the roar and hissing of the rapids. Being comparatively - close to them, on the edge of a high crag, I suddenly shot out my - voice with the full power of my lungs, in sharp, quick accents of - command to paddle ashore, and the effect was wonderful. It awoke - them like soldiers to the call of duty, and after five minutes' - energetic use of their paddles they were saved. I have often been - struck at the power of a quick, decisive tone. It appears to have - an electric effect, riding rough-shod over all fears, indecision, - and tremor, and, just as in this instance, I had frequently up - river, when the people were inclined to get panic-stricken, or to - despair, restored them to a sense of duty by affecting the - sharp-cutting, steel-like, and imperious tone of voice, which - seemed to be as much of a compelling power as powder to a bullet. - But it should be remembered that a too frequent use of it spoils - its effect. - - [Illustration: MODE OF PASSING BOATS OVER THE FALLS.] - - "From the 18th to the 21st we were busy among rapids and - whirlpools, which brought us into Babwendé territory, where we - encamped. Nsangu, a village of the Basessé, was opposite our - camp, crowning with its palms and fields a hilly terrace projected - from the mountain range, at whose richly wooded slopes or cliffy - front, based with a long line of great boulders, we each day looked - from the right bank of the river. The villagers sent a deputation - to us with palm-wine and a small gift of cassava tubers. Upon - asking them if there were any more cataracts, they replied that - there was only one, and they exaggerated it so much that the very - report struck terror and dismay into our people. They described it - as falling from a height greater than the position on which their - village was situated, which drew exclamations of despair from my - followers. I, on the other hand, rather rejoiced at this, as I - believed it might be 'Tuckey's Cataract,' which seemed to be - eternally receding as we advanced. While the Bateké above had - constantly held out flattering prospects of 'only one more' - cataract, I had believed that one to be Tuckey's Cataract, because - map-makers have laid down a great navigably reach of river between - Tuckey's upper cataract and the Yellala Falls--hence our object in - clinging to the river, despite all obstacles, until that - ever-receding cataract was reached. The distance we had labored - through from the 16th of March to the 21st of April inclusive, a - period of thirty-seven days, was only thirty-four miles! - - "On the 26th we reached the terrific fall described by the Basessé - people. The falls are called Inkisi, or the 'Charm;' they have no - clear drop, but the river, being forced through a chasm only five - hundred yards wide, is flanked by curling waves of destructive - fury, which meet in the centre, overlap, and strike each other, - while below is an absolute chaos of mad waters, leaping waves, deep - troughs, contending watery ridges, tumbling and tossing for a - distance of two miles. The commencement of this gorge is a lengthy - island which seems to have been a portion or slice of the - table-land fallen flat, as it were, from a height of one thousand - feet. - - "The natives above Inkisi descended from their breezy homes on the - table-land to visit the strangers. I asked if there was another - cataract below. 'No,' said they, 'at least only a little one, which - you can pass without trouble.' - - "'Ah,' thought I to myself, 'this great cataract then must be - Tuckey's Cataract, and the "little one," I suppose, was too - contemptible an affair to be noticed, or perhaps it was covered - over by high water, for map-makers have a clear, wide--three miles - wide--stream to the Falls of Yellala. Good! I will haul my canoes - up the mountain and pass over the table-land, as I must now cling - to this river to the end, having followed it so long.' - - "My resolution was soon communicated to my followers, who looked - perfectly blank at the proposition. The natives heard me, and, - seeing the silence and reluctance of the people, they asked the - cause, and I told them it was because I intended to drag our - vessels up the mountain. - - "Having decided upon the project, it only remained to make a road - and to begin, but in order to obtain the assistance of the - aborigines, which I was anxious for, in order to relieve my people - from much of the fatigue, the first day all hands were mustered for - road-making. Our numerous axes, which we had purchased in Manyema - and in Uregga, came into very efficient use now, for, by night, a - bush-strewn path fifteen hundred yards in length had been - constructed. - - [Illustration: VILLAGE ON THE TABLE-LAND.] - - "By 8 A.M. of the 26th our exploring-boat and a small canoe were on - the summit of the table-land at a new camp we had formed. As the - feat was performed without ostentation, the native chiefs were in a - state of agreeable wonder. After an hour's 'talk' and convivial - drinking of palm-wine they agreed, for a gift of forty cloths, to - bring six hundred men to assist us to haul up the monster canoes we - possessed, two or three of which were of heavy teak, over seventy - feet in length, and weighing over three tons. A large number of my - men were then detailed to cut rattan canes as a substitute for - ropes, and as many were brittle and easily broken, this involved - frequent delays. Six men under Kachéché were also despatched - overland to a distance of ten miles to explore the river, and to - prepare the natives for our appearance. - - "By the evening of the 28th all our vessels were safe on the - highest part of the table-land. Having become satisfied that all - was going well in camp, and that Manwa Sera and his men were - capable of superintending it, with the aid of the natives, I - resolved to take Frank and the boat's crew, women, and children, - and goods of the expedition, to the frontier of Nzabi, and - establish a camp near the river, at a point where we should again - resume our toil in the deep defile through which the mighty river - stormed along its winding course. - - [Illustration: A FIGURE IN THE MARKET-PLACE.] - - "The Babwendé natives were exceedingly friendly, even more so than - the amiable Bateké. Gunpowder was abundant with them, and every - male capable of carrying a gun possessed one, often more. Delft - ware and British crockery were also observed in their hands, such - as plates, mugs, shallow dishes, wash-basins, galvanized iron - spoons, Birmingham cutlery, and other articles of European - manufacture obtained through the native markets, which are held in - an open space between each district. For example, Nzabi district - holds a market on a Monday, and Babwendé from Zinga, Mowa farther - down, and Inkisi, and Basessé, from across the river attend, as - there is a ferry below Zinga, and articles such as European salt, - gunpowder, guns, cloth, crockery, glass, and iron ware, of which - the currency consists, are bartered for produce such as - ground-nuts, palm-oil, palm-nuts, palm-wine, cassava bread and - tubers, yams, maize, sugar-cane, beans, native earthenware, onions, - lemons, bananas, guavas, sweet limes, pineapples, black pigs, - goats, fowls, eggs, ivory, and a few slaves, who are generally - Bateké or Northern Basundi. On Tuesday the district above Inkisi - Falls holds its market, at which Mowa, Nzabi, and the district - above Inkisi attend. On Wednesday the Umvilingya, Lemba, and Nsangu - districts hold a market. On Thursday most of the Babwendé cross the - river over to Nsangu, and the Basessé have the honor of holding a - market on their own soil. On Friday the market is again held at - Nzabi, and the series runs its course in the same order. Thus, - without trading caravans or commercial expeditions, the aborigines - of these districts are well supplied with almost all they require - without the trouble and danger of proceeding to the coast. From - district to district, market to market, and hand to hand, European - fabrics and wares are conveyed along both sides of the river, and - along the paths of traffic. By this mode of traffic a keg of powder - landed at Funta, Ambriz, Ambrizette, or Kinsembo, requires about - five years to reach the Bangala. The first musket was landed in - Angola in about the latter part of the fifteenth century, for Diogo - Cão only discovered the mouth of the Congo in 1485. It has taken - three hundred and ninety years for four muskets to arrive at - Rubunga in Nganza, nine hundred and sixty-five miles from Point de - Padrão, where Diogo Cão erected his memorial column in honor of the - discovery of the Congo. - - [Illustration: AFRICAN MARKET SCENE.] - - "We discovered cloth to be so abundant among the Babwendé that it - was against our conscience to purchase even a fowl, for, naturally, - the nearer we approached civilization cloth became cheaper in - value, until finally a fowl cost four yards of our thick sheeting! - Frank and I therefore lived upon the same provisions as our - people. Our store of sugar had run out in Uregga, our coffee was - finished at Vinya Njara, and at Inkisi Falls our tea, alas! alas! - came to an end. - - [Illustration: VIEW IN THE BABWENDÉ COUNTRY.] - - "What would we not have given for a pair of shoes apiece? Though I - had kept one pair of worn-out shoes by me, my last new pair had - been put on in the jungles of doleful Uregga, and now six weeks' - rough wear over the gritty iron and clink-stone, trap, and granite - blocks along the river had ground through soles and uppers, until I - began to feel anxious. Frank had been wearing sandals made out of - my leather portmanteaus, and slippers out of our gutta-percha - pontoon; but climbing over the rocks and rugged steeps wore them to - tatters in such quick succession, that it was with the utmost - difficulty that I was enabled, by appealing to the pride of the - white man, to induce him to persevere in the manufacture of sandals - for his own use. Frequently, on suddenly arriving in camp from my - wearying labors, I would discover him with naked feet, and would - reprove him for shamelessly exposing his white feet to the vulgar - gaze of the aborigines! In Europe this would not be considered - indelicate, but in barbarous Africa the feet should be covered as - much as the body; for there is a small modicum of superiority shown - even in clothing the feet. Not only on moral grounds did I urge him - to cover his feet, but also for his own comfort and health; for the - great cataract gorge and table-land above it, besides abounding in - ants, mosquitoes, and vermin, are infested with three dangerous - insects, which prey upon the lower limbs of man--the 'jigga' from - Brazil, the guinea-worm, and an entozoon, which, depositing its - eggs in the muscles, produces a number of short, fat worms and - severe tumors. I also discovered, from the examples in my camp, - that the least abrasion of the skin was likely, if not covered, to - result in an ulcer. My own person testified to this, for an injury - to the thumb of my left hand, injured by a fall on the rocks at - Gamfwé's, had culminated in a painful wound, which I daily - cauterized; but though bathed, burned, plastered, and bandaged - twice a day, I had been at this time a sufferer for over a month. - - "In the absence of positive knowledge as to how long we might be - toiling in the cataracts, we were all compelled to be extremely - economical. Goat and pig meat were such luxuries that we declined - to think of them as being possible with our means; tea, coffee, - sugar, sardines, were fast receding into the memory-land of past - pleasures, and chickens had reached such prices that they were rare - in our camp. We possessed one ram from far Uregga, and Mirambo, the - black riding-ass--the other two asses had died a few weeks - before--but we should have deserved the name of cannibals had we - dared to think of sacrificing the pets of the camp. Therefore--by - the will of the gods--contentment had to be found in boiled 'duff,' - or cold cassava bread, ground-nuts, or peanuts, yams, and green - bananas. To make such strange food palatable was an art that we - possessed in a higher degree than our poor comrades. They were - supplied with the same materials as we ourselves, but the - preparation was different. My dark followers simply dried their - cassava, and then, pounding it, made the meal into porridge. - Ground-nuts they threw into the ashes, and when sufficiently baked - ate them like hungry men. - - [Illustration: NYITTI, AN AFRICAN POTATO.] - - "For me such food was too crude; besides, my stomach, called to - sustain a brain and body strained to the utmost by - responsibilities, required that some civility should be shown to - it. Necessity roused my faculties, and a jaded stomach goaded my - inventive powers to a high pitch. I called my faithful cook, told - him to clean and wash mortar and pestle for the preparation of a - 'high art' dish. Frank approached also to receive instruction, so - that, in my absence, he might remind Marzouk, the cook, of each - particular. First we rinsed in clear, cold brook-water from the - ravines some choice cassava, or manioc tops, and these were placed - in the water to be bruised. Marzouk understood this part very well, - and soon pounded them to the consistence of a green porridge. To - this I then added fifty shelled nuts of the _Arachis hypogoea_, - three small specimens of the _Dioscorea alata_, boiled and sliced - cold; a tablespoonful of oil extracted from the _Arachis - hypogoea_; a tablespoonful of wine of the _Elais Guineensis_, a - little salt, and sufficient powdered capsicum. This imposing and - admirable mixture was pounded together, fried, and brought into the - tent, along with toasted cassava pudding, hot and steaming, on the - only Delft plate we possessed. Within a few minutes our breakfast - was spread out on the medicine-chest which served me for a table, - and at once a keen appetite was inspired by the grateful smell of - my artful compound. After invoking a short blessing Frank and I - rejoiced our souls and stomachs with the savory mess, and flattered - ourselves that, though British paupers and Sing-Sing convicts might - fare better, perhaps, thankful content crowned our hermit repast." - - [Illustration: UGOGO COOKING-POT.] - -"That will do for this evening," said Frank, as he closed the book at -the end of the chapter. "We will leave Mr. Stanley and his only white -companion at their frugal feast, and congratulate them on their -ingenuity in making the most that was possible out of the limited -supplies which the native markets afforded them." - -[Illustration: WILD BULL OF EQUATORIAL AFRICA.] - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - -A DISAPPOINTMENT.--NOT TUCKEY'S FURTHEST.--BUILDING NEW CANOES.--THE -_LIVINGSTONE_, _STANLEY_, AND _JASON_.--FALLS BELOW INKISI.--FRANK -POCOCK DROWNED.--STANLEY'S GRIEF.--_IN MEMORIAM_.--MUTINY IN CAMP.--HOW -IT WAS QUELLED.--LOSS OF THE _LIVINGSTONE_.--THE CHIEF CARPENTER -DROWNED.--ISANGILA CATARACT.--TUCKEY'S SECOND SANGALLA.--ABANDONING THE -BOATS.--OVERLAND TO BOMA.--THE EXPEDITION STARVING.--A LETTER ASKING -HELP.--VOLUNTEER COURIERS.--DELAYS AT STARTING.--VAIN EFFORTS TO BUY -FOOD.--A DREARY MARCH.--SUFFERINGS OF STANLEY'S PEOPLE.--THE LEADER'S -ANXIETY. - - -Fred took the chair the next day, and resumed the narrative at the point -where it was dropped by his cousin. He turned several leaves of the book -in slow succession, and said as he did so: - -"Mr. Stanley was destined to be greatly disappointed. In passing Inkisi -Falls, he felt certain that he had at last reached Tuckey's Cataract, -and henceforth would have an uninterrupted passage to the sea. But he -soon found that there were other and larger cataracts to be passed, and -as he had lost nine of his canoes he was in great need of an addition to -his fleet. While the transport party and the natives were busy hauling -the canoes around Inkisi Falls, taking them first to the table-land, -twelve hundred feet high, and then down again, the carpenters were set -to cutting down two of the largest trees and hollowing them out for -boats. Two boats, the _Livingstone_ and the _Stanley_, were then made; -the former, hewn from a single log of teak, was fifty-four feet long, -two feet four inches deep, and three feet two inches wide. The _Stanley_ -was not so large, but she proved an excellent boat, and was a credit to -her builders. Afterwards a third boat was completed, to take the place -of the _Jason_, which was lost at Kalulu Falls. - -"The country around Inkisi Falls was covered with fine timber. Mr. -Stanley tells us that many of the trees were twelve feet and upwards in -circumference, and their trunks were without branches for forty or fifty -feet. The teak tree from which the _Livingstone_ was made was thirteen -feet three inches in circumference, and when prostrate on the ground -gave a branchless log fifty-five feet in length. - -[Illustration: THE NEW CANOES, THE "LIVINGSTONE" AND THE "STANLEY."] - -"The work of descending the various rapids and falls below Inkisi," said -Fred, "was much like what had engaged the time and attention of the -explorers since their departure from Stanley Pool. In some instances the -boats were run through the rapids where it was thought they could be -carried safely; in others they were lowered by means of cables, and at -the worst falls they were dragged overland in the manner already -described. In the passage of the Mowa Rapids the _Lady Alice_ struck the -rocks, and was so severely injured that the repair of the boat took an -entire day's labor by Mr. Stanley and Frank Pocock. Even then she took -water badly, and with their limited materials it was found impossible to -stop the leak properly. They were finally able to do so, with some -beeswax which was brought to them by the natives. - -"The third of June was a melancholy day for Mr. Stanley, as it was -marked by the drowning of Frank Pocock, his last remaining white -companion. The circumstances were these: - -[Illustration: CUTTING OUT THE NEW "LIVINGSTONE" CANOE.] - -"Frank had been suffering from ulcers upon his feet and was unable to -walk. Mr. Stanley had gone from the camp at Mowa to establish a new camp -above the falls of Zinga, three miles lower down the Congo. Orders had -been given for the boats to be lowered carefully down the rapids, while -Frank was to be carried in a hammock. The hammock-bearers did not arrive -as soon as expected, and as the _Jason_, under the command of the -skilful Uledi, was starting to descend the rapids, Frank insisted upon -being taken on board. In the rapids the boat was overturned in a -whirlpool, and out of its eleven occupants three were drowned, among -them "the little master," as Frank was called by the men of the -expedition. His body was found by a fisherman, four or five days later, -floating in the water below the rapids. Mr. Stanley gave the locality -the name of Pocock Basin, in memory of the friend and companion whose -loss he so deeply mourned that for some days he was hardly able to -attend to the pressing duties of his position. - -[Illustration: FRANCIS JOHN POCOCK. - -Drowned June 3, 1877.] - -"Of his feelings on this sad occasion Mr. Stanley says: - - "As I looked at the empty tent and the dejected, woe-stricken - servants, a choking sensation of unutterable grief filled me. The - sorrow-laden mind fondly recalled the lost man's inestimable - qualities, his extraordinary gentleness, his patient temper, his - industry, cheerfulness, and his tender friendship; it dwelt upon - the pleasure of his society, his general usefulness, his piety, and - cheerful trust in our success, with which he had renewed our hope - and courage; and each new virtue that it remembered only served to - intensify my sorrow for his loss, and to suffuse my heart with pity - and regret, that after the exhibition of so many admirable - qualities and such long, faithful service, he should depart this - life so abruptly, and without reward. - - "When curtained about by anxieties, and the gloom created by the - almost insurmountable obstacles we encountered, his voice had ever - made music in my soul. When grieving for the hapless lives that - were lost, he consoled me. But now my friendly comforter and - true-hearted friend was gone! Ah, had some one then but relieved me - from my cares, and satisfied me that my dark followers would see - their Zanjian homes again, I would that day have gladly ended the - struggle, and, crying out, 'Who dies earliest dies best,' have - embarked in my boat and dropped calmly over the cataracts into - eternity." - -[Illustration: FALL OF THE EDWIN ARNOLD RIVER INTO THE POCOCK BASIN.] - -"A few days after the death of Frank Pocock," continued Fred, there was -a mutinous outbreak in the camp, many of the men refusing to work. They -said they would rather be slaves to the natives than stay where almost -every day some of their number were drowned in the river. Thirty-one of -the men packed up their property and left the camp. Mr. Stanley sent -Kachéché, the detective, after them, and he also interested the chiefs -of the tribes around Zinga to arrest the mutineers and bring them back -to camp. - -[Illustration: THE CHIEF CARPENTER CARRIED OVER ZINGA FALL.] - -"Diplomacy and force combined secured the return of the rebellious men, -and they were fully pardoned for their defection. Mr. Stanley pointed -out to them the necessity of pushing forward, and on the morning after -they came back everybody went at work with a will to pass the dreaded -Zinga Fall. - -"Assisted by one hundred and fifty Zinga natives whom Mr. Stanley had -hired, three of the boats were drawn up to the level of the rocky point -above Zinga Fall on the morning of June 23d. The fourth boat was the -_Livingstone_, whose construction has been described; it weighed about -three tons, and when only a short distance above the shore the cable -snapped and the boat slid back into the river. The chief carpenter of -the expedition clung to it, and in the excitement of the moment he -sprang into it just as it left the shore. Being unable to swim, he could -not save himself, and was carried over the fall. Neither the carpenter -nor the boat were ever seen again. It is supposed that the boat was -jammed and caught among the rocks at the bottom of the river, where it -was driven by the terrible force of the cataract. - -[Illustration: THE MASASSA FALLS, AND THE ENTRANCE INTO POCOCK BASIN, OR -BOLOBOLO POOL.] - -"For another month and more the steadily diminishing band of explorers -toiled among the rapids and cataracts of the Congo, and on the 30th of -July drew their boats into a little cove about fifty yards above the -Isangila cataract, the 'Second Sangalla' of Captain Tuckey. Here Mr. -Stanley learned that Embomma, or Boma, was only five days away by land, -and that there were three other cataracts, besides several rapids, -before permanently smooth water could be reached. And here," said Fred, -"I will turn to the book and read Mr. Stanley's account of how the -explorers reached the sea." - -[Illustration: CAMP AT KILOLO, ABOVE ISANGILA FALLS.] - - "There was not the slightest doubt in my mind that the Isangila - cataract was the second Sangalla of Captain Tuckey and Professor - Smith, and that the Sanga Yellala of Tuckey and the Sanga Jelalla - of Smith was the Nsongo Yellala, though I could not induce the - natives to pronounce the words as the members of the unfortunate - Congo Expedition of 1816 spelled them. - - "As the object of the journey had now been attained, and the great - river of Livingstone had been connected with the Congo of Tuckey, I - saw no reason to follow it farther, or to expend the little - remaining vitality we possessed in toiling through the last four - cataracts. - - "I announced, therefore, to the gallant but wearied Wangwana that - we should abandon the river and strike overland for Embomma. The - delight of the people manifested itself in loud and fervid - exclamations of gratitude to Allah! Quadruple ration-money was also - distributed to each man, woman, and child; but, owing to the - excessive poverty of the country, and the keen trading instincts - and avaricious spirit of the aborigines, little benefit did the - long-enduring, famine-stricken Wangwana derive from my liberality. - - "Fancy knick-knacks, iron spears, knives, axes, copper, brass wire, - were then distributed to them, and I emptied the medicine out of - thirty vials, and my private clothes-bags, blankets, waterproofs, - every available article of property that might be dispensed with, - were also given away, without distinction of rank or merit, to - invest in whatever eatables they could procure. The 31st of July - was consequently a busy day, devoted to bartering, but few Wangwana - were able to boast at evening that they had obtained a tithe of the - value of the articles they had sold, and the character of the food - actually purchased was altogether unfit for people in such poor - condition of body. - - "At sunset we lifted the brave boat, after her adventurous journey - across Africa, and carried her to the summit of some rocks about - five hundred yards north of the fall, to be abandoned to her fate. - Three years before, Messenger of Teddington had commenced her - construction; two years previous to this date she was coasting the - bluffs of Uzongora on Lake Victoria; twelve months later she was - completing her last twenty miles of the circumnavigation of Lake - Tanganika, and on the 31st of July, 1877, after a journey of nearly - seven thousand miles up and down broad Africa, she was consigned to - her resting-place above the Isangili cataract, to bleach and to rot - to dust! - - * * * * * - - "A wayworn, feeble, and suffering column were we when, on the 1st - of August, we filed across the rocky terrace of Isangila and - sloping plain, and strode up the ascent to the table-land. Nearly - forty men filled the sick-list with dysentery, ulcers, and scurvy, - and the victims of the latter disease were steadily increasing. - Yet withal I smiled proudly when I saw the brave hearts cheerily - respond to my encouraging cries. A few, however, would not believe - that within five or six days they should see Europeans. They - disdained to be considered so credulous, but at the same time they - granted that the 'master' was quite right to encourage his people - with promises of speedy relief. - - [Illustration: VIEW FROM THE TABLE-LAND.] - - "So we surmounted the table-land, but we could not bribe the - wretched natives to guide us to the next village. 'Mirambo,' the - riding-ass, managed to reach half-way up the table-land, but he - also was too far exhausted through the miserable attenuation which - the poor grass of the western region had wrought in his frame to - struggle farther. We could only pat him on the neck and say, - 'Good-bye, old boy; farewell, old hero! A bad world this for you - and for us. We must part at last.' The poor animal appeared to know - that we were leaving him, for he neighed after us--a sickly, - quavering neigh, that betrayed his excessive weakness. When we last - turned to look at him he was lying on the path, but looking up the - hill with pointed ears, as though he were wondering why he was left - alone, and whither his human friends and companions by flood and - field were wandering. - - "After charging the chief of Mbinda to feed him with cassava leaves - and good grass from his fields, I led the caravan over the serried - levels of the lofty upland. - - "At the end of this district, about a mile from Mwato Wandu, we - appeared before a village whose inhabitants permitted us to pass on - for a little distance, when they suddenly called out to us with - expostulatory tones at an almost shrieking pitch. The old chief, - followed by about fifty men, about forty of whom carried guns, - hurried up to me and sat down in the road. - - "In a composed and consequential tone he asked, 'Know you I am the - king of this country?' - - "I answered, mildly, 'I knew it not, my brother.' - - "'I am the king, and how can you pass through my country without - paying me?' - - "'Speak, my friend; what is it the Mundelé can give you?' - - "'Rum. I want a big bottle of rum, and then you can pass on.' - - "'Rum?' - - "'Yes, rum, for I am the king of this country!' - - "'Rum!' I replied, wonderingly. - - "'Rum; rum is good. I love rum,' he said, with a villainous leer. - - "Uledi, coming forward, impetuously asked, 'What does this old man - want, master?' - - "'He wants rum, Uledi. Think of it!' - - [Illustration: "I WANT RUM."] - - "'There's rum for him,' he said, irreverently slapping his majesty - over the face, who, as the stool was not very firm, fell over - prostrate. Naturally this was an affront, and I reproved Uledi for - it. Yet it seemed that he had extricated us from a difficult - position by his audacity, for the old chief and his people hurried - off to their village, where there was great excitement and - perturbation, but we could not stay to see the end. - - "Ever and anon, as we rose above the ridged swells, we caught a - glimpse of the wild river on whose bosom we had so long floated. - Still white and foaming, it rushed on impetuously seaward through - the sombre defile. Then we descended into a deep ravine, and - presently, with uneasy, throbbing hearts, we breasted a steep slope - rough with rock, and from its summit we looked abroad over a - heaving, desolate, and ungrateful land. The grass was tall and - ripe, and waved and rustled mournfully before the upland breezes. - Soon the road declined into a valley, and we were hid in a deep - fold, round which rose the upland, here to the west shagged with a - thin forest, to the north with ghastly sere grass, out of which - rose a few rocks, gray and sad. On our left was furze, with scrub. - At the bottom of this, sad and desolate, ran a bright, crystal - clear brook. Up again to the summit we strove to gain the crest of - a ridge, and then, down once more the tedious road wound in crooked - curves to the depth of another ravine, on the opposite side of - which rose sharply and steeply, to the wearying height of twelve - hundred feet, the range called Yangi-Yangi. At 11 A.M. we in the - van had gained the lofty summit, and fifteen minutes afterwards we - descried a settlement and its cluster of palms. An hour afterwards - we were camped on a bit of level plateau to the south of the - villages of Ndambi Mbongo. - - "The chiefs appeared, dressed in scarlet military coats of a past - epoch. We asked for food for beads. 'Cannot.' 'For wire?' 'We don't - want wire!' 'For cowries?' 'Are we bushmen?' 'For cloth?' 'You must - wait three days for a market'. If you have got rum you can have - plenty!!' Rum! Heavens! Over two years and eight months ago we - departed from the shores of the Eastern Ocean, and they ask us for - rum! - - "Yet they were not insolent, but unfeeling; they were not rude, but - steely selfish. We conversed with them sociably enough, and - obtained encouragement. A strong, healthy man would reach Embomma - in three days. Three days! Only three days off from food--from - comforts--luxuries even! Ah me! - - "The next day, when morning was graying, we lifted our weakened - limbs for another march. And such a march!--the path all thickly - strewn with splinters of suet-colored quartz, which increased the - fatigue and pain. The old men and the three mothers, with their - young infants born at the cataracts of Masassa and Zinga, and - another near the market-town of Manyanga, in the month of June, - suffered greatly. Then might be seen that affection for one another - which appealed to my sympathies, and endeared them to me still - more. Two of the younger men assisted each of the old, and the - husbands and fathers lifted their infants on their shoulders and - tenderly led their wives along. - - [Illustration: VILLAGE SCENE, WITH GRANARY IN FOREGROUND.] - - "Up and down the desolate and sad land wound the poor, hungry - caravan. Bleached whiteness of ripest grass, gray rock-piles here - and there, looming up solemn and sad in their grayness, a thin - grove of trees now and then visible on the heights and in the - hollows--such were the scenes that with every uplift of a ridge or - rising crest of a hill met our hungry eyes. Eight miles our - strength enabled us to make, and then we camped in the middle of an - uninhabited valley, where we were supplied with water from the - pools which we discovered in the course of a dried-up stream. - - "Our march on the third day was a continuation of the scenes of the - day preceding until about ten o'clock, when we arrived at the - summit of a grassy and scrub-covered ridge, which we followed until - three in the afternoon. The van then appeared before the miserable - settlement of Nsanda, or, as it is sometimes called, Banza (town) - N'sanda N'sanga. Marching through the one street of the first - village in melancholy and silent procession, voiceless as sphinxes, - we felt our way down into a deep gully, and crawled up again to the - level of the village site, and camped about two hundred yards away. - It was night before all had arrived. - - [Illustration: IN THE VALLEY.] - - "After we had erected our huts and lifted the tent into its usual - place, the chief of Nsanda appeared. He was kindly, - sociable--laughed, giggled, and was amusing. Of course he knew - Embomma, had frequently visited there, and carried thither large - quantities of _Nguba_, ground-nuts, which he had sold for rum. We - listened, as in duty bound, with a melancholy interest. Then I - suddenly asked him if he would carry a _makanda_, or letter, to - Embomma, and allow three of my men to accompany him. He was too - great to proceed himself, but he would despatch two of his young - men the next day. His consent I obtained only after four hours of - earnest entreaty. It was finally decided that I should write a - letter, and the two young natives would be ready next day. After my - dinner--three fried bananas, twenty roasted ground-nuts, and a cup - of muddy water, my usual fare now--by a lamp made out of a piece of - rotten sheeting steeped in a little palm-butter I wrote the - following letter: - - "'VILLAGE OF NSANDA, _August_ 4, 1877. - - "'_To any Gentleman who speaks English at Embomma:_ - - "DEAR SIR,--I have arrived at this place from Zanzibar with one - hundred and fifteen souls, men, women, and children. We are now in - a state of imminent starvation. We can buy nothing from the - natives, for they laugh at our kinds of cloth, beads, and wire. - There are no provisions in the country that may be purchased, - except on market-days, and starving people cannot afford to wait - for these markets. I, therefore, have made bold to despatch three - of my young men, natives of Zanzibar, with a boy named Robert - Feruzi, of the English Mission at Zanzibar, with this letter, - craving relief from you. I do not know you; but I am told there is - an Englishman at Embomma, and as you are a Christian and a - gentleman, I beg you not to disregard my request. The boy Robert - will be better able to describe our lone condition than I can tell - you in this letter. We are in a state of the greatest distress; but - if your supplies arrive in time, I may be able to reach Embomma - within four days. I want three hundred cloths, each four yards - long, of such quality as you trade with, which is very different - from that we have; but better than all would be ten or fifteen - man-loads of rice or grain to fill their pinched bellies - immediately, as even with the cloths it would require time to - purchase food, and starving people cannot wait. The supplies must - arrive within two days, or I may have a fearful time of it among - the dying. Of course I hold myself responsible for any expense you - may incur in this business. What is wanted is immediate relief; and - I pray you to use your utmost energies to forward it at once. For - myself, if you have such little luxuries as tea, coffee, sugar, and - biscuits by you, such as one man can easily carry, I beg you on my - own behalf that you will send a small supply, and add to the great - debt of gratitude due to you upon the timely arrival of the - supplies for my people. Until that time I beg you to believe me, - - "'Yours sincerely, - "'H. M. STANLEY, - "'_Commanding Anglo-American Expedition_ - _for Exploration of Africa._ - - "'_P.S._--You may not know me by name; I therefore add, I am the - person that discovered Livingstone in 1871.--H. M. S.' - - "I also wrote a letter in French, and another in Spanish as a - substitute for Portuguese, as I heard at Nsanda that there was one - Englishman, one Frenchman, and three Portuguese at Embomma; but - there were conflicting statements, some saying that there was no - Englishman, but a Dutchman. However, I imagined I was sure to - obtain provisions--for most European merchants understand either - English, French, or Spanish. - - [Illustration: ANT-HILLS ON THE ROAD TO BOMA.] - - "The chiefs and boat's crew were called to my tent. I then told - them that I had resolved to despatch four messengers to the white - men at Embomma, with letters asking for food, and wished to know - the names of those most likely to travel quickly and through - anything that interposed to prevent them; for it might be possible - that so small a number of men might be subjected to delays and - interruptions, and that the guides might loiter on the way, and so - protract the journey until relief would arrive too late. - - "The response was not long coming, for Uledi sprang up and said, - 'Oh, master, don't talk more; I am ready now. See, I will only - buckle on my belt, and I shall start at once, and nothing will - stop me. I will follow on the track like a leopard.' - - "'And I am one,' said Kachéché. 'Leave us alone, master. If there - are white men at Embomma, we will find them out. We will walk, and - walk, and when we cannot walk we will crawl.' - - "'Leave off talking, men,' said Muini Pembé, 'and allow others to - speak, won't you? Hear me, my master. I am your servant. I will - outwalk the two. I will carry the letter, and plant it before the - eyes of the white men.' - - [Illustration: ONE OF THE GUIDES.] - - "'I will go, too, sir,' said Robert. - - "'Good. It is just as I should wish it; but, Robert, you cannot - follow these three men. You will break down, my boy.' - - "'Oh, we will carry him if he breaks down,' said Uledi. 'Won't we - Kachéché?' - - "'Inshallah!' responded Kachéché, decisively. 'We must have Robert - along with us, otherwise the white men won't understand us.' - - "Early the next day the two guides appeared, but the whole of the - morning was wasted in endeavoring to induce them to set off. Uledi - waxed impatient, and buckled on his accoutrements, drawing his - belt so tight about his waist that it was perfectly painful to - watch him, and said, 'Give us the letters, master; we will not - wait for the pagans. Our people will be dead before we start. - Regard them, will you! They are sprawling about the camp without - any life in them. Goee--Go-ee--Go-ee.' Finally, at noon, the - guides and messengers departed in company. - - "Meanwhile a bale of cloth and a sack of beads were distributed, - and the strongest and youngest men despatched abroad in all - directions to forage for food. Late in the afternoon they arrived - in camp weakened and dispirited, having, despite all efforts, - obtained but a few bundles of the miserable ground-nuts and - sufficient sweet potatoes to give three small ones to each person, - though they had given twenty times their value for each one. The - heartless reply of the spoiled aborigines was, 'Wait for the - zandu,' or market, which was to be held in two days at Nsanda; - for, as among the Babwendé, each district has its respective days - for marketing. Still what we had obtained was a respite from - death; and, on the morning of the 5th, the people were prepared to - drag their weary limbs nearer to the expected relief." - - [Illustration: CATCHING ANTS FOR FOOD.] - - - - -CHAPTER XVII. - -THE WEARY MARCH RESUMED.--RETURN OF THE MESSENGERS.--ARRIVAL OF -RELIEF.--SCENE IN CAMP.--DISTRIBUTION OF PROVISIONS.--THE SONG OF -JOY.--A WELCOME LETTER.--"ENOUGH NOW; FALL TO."--PERSONAL LUXURIES FOR -THE LEADER.--"PALE ALE! SHERRY! PORT WINE! CHAMPAGNE! TEA! COFFEE! WHITE -SUGAR! WHEATEN BREAD!"--STANLEY'S REPLY TO THE GENEROUS -STRANGERS.--SUMMARY PUNISHMENT FOR THEFT.--GREETING -CIVILIZATION.--RECEPTION BY WHITE MEN.--THE FREEDOM OF BOMA.--LIFTED -INTO THE HAMMOCK.--CHARACTERISTICS OF BOMA.--A BANQUET AND -FAREWELL.--PONTA DA LENHA.--OUT ON THE OCEAN.--ADIEU TO THE CONGO. - - -After a pause of a few minutes, Fred continued the story of the weary -march of the next day, and the formation of the camp near Mbinda, close -to a cemetery where the graves were decorated with the property of their -occupants. Many pitchers, bowls, mugs, and other articles of European -manufacture were displayed there, and indicated the free intercourse of -the natives with the merchants of Embomma. - -[Illustration: MBINDA CEMETERY.] - -"The natives," said Fred, "continued indifferent to the sufferings of -the starving travellers, and persistently refused to sell any food. -Early on the morning of the 6th of August the party moved out, and after -toiling painfully over the flinty path went into camp near Banza Mbuko -about 9 A.M. In despair the people flung themselves on the ground, and -some of them appeared ready to welcome death as a relief from their -misery. And now," continued the youth, "let us turn again to Mr. -Stanley's narrative: - - "Suddenly the shrill voice of a little boy was heard saying, 'Oh! I - see Uledi and Kachéché coming down the hill, and there are plenty - of men following them!' - - "'What! what! what!' broke out eagerly from several voices, and - dark forms were seen springing up from among the bleached grass, - and from under the shade, and many eyes were directed at the - whitened hill-slope. - - "'Yes; it is true! it is true! La il Allah, il Allah! Yes; el hamd - ul Illah! Yes, it is food! food! food at last! Ah, that Uledi! he - is a lion, truly! We are saved, thank God!' - - [Illustration: IN THE SUBURBS OF BOMA.] - - "Before many minutes, Uledi and Kachéché were seen tearing through - the grass, and approaching us with long springing strides, holding - a letter up to announce to us that they had been successful. And - the gallant fellows, hurrying up, soon placed it in my hands, and - in the hearing of all who were gathered to hear the news I - translated the following letter: - - "'EMBOMMA, - "'ENGLISH FACTORY. - "'6.30 A.M., - "'BOMA, _6th August_, 1877. - - "'H. M. STANLEY, Esq.: - - "DEAR SIR,--Your welcome letter came to hand yesterday, at 7 P.M. - As soon as its contents were understood, we immediately arranged - to despatch to you such articles as you requested, as much as our - stock on hand would permit, and other things that we deemed would - be suitable in that locality. You will see that we send fifty - pieces of cloth, each twenty-four yards long, and some sacks - containing sundries for yourself; several sacks of rice, sweet - potatoes, also a few bundles of fish, a bundle of tobacco, and one - demijohn of rum. The carriers are all paid, so that you need not - trouble yourself about them. That is all we need say about - business. We are exceedingly sorry to hear that you have arrived - in such piteous condition, but we send our warmest congratulations - to you, and hope that you will soon arrive in Boma (this place is - called Boma by us, though on the map it is Embomma). Again hoping - that you will soon arrive, and that you are not suffering in - health. - - "'Believe us to remain, your sincere friends, - - "'_(Signed)_ - "'HATTON & COOKSON. - "'A. DA MOTTA VEIGA. - "'J. W. HARRISON.' - - [Illustration: OUTBUILDINGS OF AN AFRICAN FACTORY.] - - "Uledi and Kachéché then delivered their budget. Their guides had - accompanied them half-way, when they became frightened by the - menaces of some of the natives of Mbinda, and deserted them. The - four Wangwana, however, undertook the journey alone, and, - following a road for several hours, they appeared at Bibbi after - dark. The next day (the 5th), being told by the natives that Boma - (to which Embomma was now changed) was lower down river, and - unable to obtain guides, the brave fellows resolved upon following - the Congo along its banks. About an hour after sunset, after a - fatiguing march over many hills, they reached Boma, and, asking a - native for the house of the 'Ingreza' (English), were shown to the - factory of Messrs. Hatton & Cookson, which was superintended by a - Portuguese gentleman, Mr. A. da Motta Veiga, and Mr. John W. - Harrison, of Liverpool. Kachéché, who was a better narrator than - Uledi, then related that a short white man, wearing spectacles, - opened the letter, and, after reading awhile, asked which was - Robert Feruzi, who answered for himself in English, and, in answer - to many questions, gave a summary of our travels and adventures, - but not before the cooks were set to prepare an abundance of food, - which they sadly needed, after a fast of over thirty hours. - - [Illustration: ESCORT OF THE CARAVAN.] - - "By this time the procession of carriers from Messrs. Hatton & - Cookson's factory had approached, and all eyes were directed at - the pompous old 'capitan' and the relief caravan behind him. - Several of the Wangwana officiously stepped forward to relieve the - fatigued and perspiring men, and with an extraordinary vigor - tossed the provisions--rice, fish, and tobacco bundles--on the - ground, except the demijohn of rum, which they called pombé, and - handled most carefully. The 'capitan' was anxious about my private - stores, but the scene transpiring about the provisions was so - absorbingly interesting that I could pay no attention as yet to - them. While the captains of the messes were ripping open the sacks - and distributing the provisions in equal quantities, Murabo, the - boat-boy, struck up a glorious, loud-swelling chant of triumph and - success, into which he deftly, and with a poet's license, - interpolated verses laudatory of the white men of the second sea. - The bard, extemporizing, sang much about the great cataracts, - cannibals, and pagans, hunger, the wide wastes, great inland seas, - and niggardly tribes, and wound up by declaring that the journey - was over, that we were even then smelling the breezes of the - western ocean, and his master's brothers had redeemed them from - the 'hell of hunger.' And at the end of each verse the voices rose - high and clear to the chorus-- - - "'Then sing, O friends, sing; the journey is ended; - Sing aloud, O friends, sing to this great sea.' - - "'Enough now; fall to,' said Manwa Sera, at which the people - nearly smothered him by their numbers. Into each apron, bowl, and - utensil held out, the several captains expeditiously tossed full - measures of rice and generous quantities of sweet potatoes and - portions of fish. The younger men and women hobbled after water, - and others set about gathering fuel, and the camp was all - animation, where but half an hour previously all had been listless - despair. Many people were unable to wait for the food to be - cooked, but ate the rice and the fish raw. But when the provisions - had all been distributed, and the noggin of rum had been equitably - poured into each man's cup, and the camp was in a state of genial - excitement, and groups of dark figures discussed with animation - the prospective food which the hospitable fires were fast - preparing, then I turned to my tent, accompanied by Uledi, - Kachéché, the capitan, and the tent-boys, who were, I suppose, - eager to witness my transports of delight. - - "With profound tenderness Kachéché handed to me the mysterious - bottles, watching my face the while with his sharp detective eyes - as I glanced at the labels, by which the cunning rogue read my - pleasure. Pale ale! Sherry! Port wine! Champagne! Several loaves - of bread, wheaten bread, sufficient for a week! Two pots of - butter! A packet of tea! Coffee! White loaf-sugar! Sardines and - salmon! Plum-pudding! Currant, gooseberry, and raspberry jam! - - "The gracious God be praised forever! The long war we had - maintained against famine and the siege of woe were over, and my - people and I rejoiced in plenty! Only an hour before this we had - been living on the recollections of the few peanuts and green - bananas we had consumed in the morning, but now, in an instant, we - were transported into the presence of the luxuries of - civilization. Never did gaunt Africa appear so unworthy and so - despicable before my eyes as now, when imperial Europe rose before - me and showed her boundless treasures of life, and blessed me with - her stores. - - "When we all felt refreshed, the cloth bales were opened, and - soon, instead of the venerable and tattered relics of Manchester, - Salem, and Nashua manufacture, which were hastily consumed by the - fire, the people were reclad with white cloths and gay prints. The - nakedness of want, the bare ribs, the sharp, protruding bones were - thus covered; but months must elapse before the hollow, sunken - cheeks and haggard faces would again resume the healthy bronze - color which distinguishes the well-fed African. - - [Illustration: OUTSIDE THE VILLAGE.] - - "My condition of mind in the evening of the eventful day which was - signalized by the happy union which we had made with the merchants - of the west coast, may be guessed by the following letter: - - "'BANZA MBUKO, _August_ 6, 1877. - - "'MESSRS. A. DA MOTTA VEIGA AND J. W. HARRISON, EMBOMMA, CONGO - RIVER: - - "'GENTLEMEN,--I have received your very welcome letter, but better - than all, and more welcome, your supplies. I am unable to express - just at present how grateful I feel. We are all so overjoyed and - confused with our emotions, at the sight of the stores exposed to - our hungry eyes--at the sight of the rice, the fish, and the rum, - and for me--wheaten bread, butter, sardines, jam, peaches, grapes, - beer (ye gods! just think of it--three bottles pale ale!) besides - tea and sugar--that we cannot restrain ourselves from falling to - and enjoying this sudden bounteous store--and I beg you will - charge our apparent want of thankfulness to our greediness. If we - do not thank you sufficiently in words, rest assured we feel what - volumes could not describe. - - "'For the next twenty-four hours we shall be too busy eating to - think of anything else much; but I may say that the people cry out - joyfully, while their mouths are full of rice and fish, "Verily, - our master has found the sea, and his brothers, but we did not - believe him until he showed us the rice and the pombé (rum). We - did not believe there was any end to the great river; but, God be - praised forever, we shall see white people to-morrow, and our wars - and troubles will be over." - - "'Dear Sirs, though strangers, I feel we shall be great friends, - and it will be the study of my lifetime to remember my feelings of - gratefulness when I first caught sight of your supplies, and my - poor, faithful, and brave people cried out, "Master, we are - saved!--food is coming!" The old and the young--the men, the - women, the children--lifted their wearied and worn-out frames, and - began to chant lustily an extemporaneous song, in honor of the - white people by the great salt sea (the Atlantic) who had listened - to their prayers. I had to rush to my tent to hide the tears that - would issue, despite all my attempts at composure. - - "'Gentlemen, that the blessing of God may attend your footsteps - whithersoever you go, is the very earnest prayer of - - "'Yours faithfully, HENRY M. STANLEY, - "'_Commanding Anglo-American Expedition_.' - - "At the same hour on the morning of the 7th that we resumed the - march, Kachéché and Uledi were despatched to Boma with the above - letter. Then surmounting a ridge, we beheld a grassy country - barred with seams of red clay in gullies, ravines, and slopes, the - effects of rain, dipping into basins with frequently broad masses - of plateau and great dykelike ridges between, and in the distance - southwest of us a lofty, tree-clad hill-range, which we were told - we should have to climb before descending to N'lamba N'lamba, - where we proposed camping. - - [Illustration: VIEW IN THE OPEN COUNTRY.] - - "Half an hour's march brought us to a market-place, where a - tragedy had been enacted a short time before the relief caravan - had passed it the day previous. Two thieves had robbed a woman of - salt, and, according to the local custom which ordains the - severest penalties for theft in the public mart, the two felons - had been immediately executed, and their bodies laid close to the - path to deter others evilly disposed from committing like crimes. - - "At noon we surmounted the lofty range which we had viewed near - Banza Mbuko, and the aneroid indicated a height of fifteen hundred - feet. A short distance from its base, on two grassy hills, is - situate N'lamba N'lamba, a settlement comprising several villages, - and as populous as Mbinda. The houses and streets were very clean - and neat; but, as of old, the natives are devoted to idolatry, and - their passion for carving wooden idols was illustrated in every - street we passed through. - - "On the 8th we made a short march of five miles to N'safu, over a - sterile, bare, and hilly country, but the highest ridge passed was - not over eleven hundred feet above the sea. Uledi and Kachéché - returned at this place with more cheer for us, and a note - acknowledging my letter of thanks. - - "In a postscript to this note, Mr. Motta Veiga prepared me for a - reception which was to meet me on the road half-way between N'safu - and Boma; it also contained the census of the European population, - as follows: - - "'Perhaps you do not know that in Boma there are only eleven - Portuguese, one Frenchman, one Dutchman, one gentleman from St. - Helena, and ourselves (Messrs. Motta Veiga and J. W. Harrison), - Messrs. Hatton and Cookson being in Liverpool, and the two - signatures above being names of those in charge of the English - factory there.' - - "On the 9th of August, 1877, 999th day from the date of our - departure from Zanzibar, we prepared to greet the van of - civilization. - - "From the bare rocky ridges of N'safu there is a perceptible - decline to the Congo valley, and the country becomes, in - appearance, more sterile--a sparse population dwelling in a mere - skeleton village in the centre of bleakness. Shingly rocks strewed - the path and the waste, and thin, sere grass waved mournfully on - level and spine, on slope of ridge and crest of hill; in the - hollows it was somewhat thicker; in the bottoms it had a slight - tinge of green. - - "We had gradually descended some five hundred feet along declining - spurs when we saw a scattered string of hammocks appearing, and - gleams of startling whiteness, such as were given by fine linen - and twills. - - "A buzz of wonder ran along our column. - - "Proceeding a little farther, we stopped, and in a short time I - was face to face with four white--ay, truly white men! - - "As I looked into their faces, I blushed to find that I was - wondering at their paleness. Poor pagan Africans--Rwoma of Uzinja, - and man-eating tribes of the Livingstone! The whole secret of - their wonder and curiosity flashed upon me at once. What arrested - the twanging bow and the deadly trigger of the cannibals? What but - the weird pallor of myself and Frank! In the same manner the sight - of the pale faces of the Embomma merchants gave me the slightest - suspicion of an involuntary shiver. The pale color, after so long - gazing on rich black and richer bronze, had something of an - unaccountable ghastliness. I could not divest myself of the - feeling that they must be sick; yet, as I compare their - complexions to what I now view, I should say they were olive, - sunburned, dark. - - [Illustration: WOODEN IDOL.] - - "Yet there was something very self-possessed about the carriage of - these white men. It was grand; a little self-pride mixed with - cordiality. I could not remember just then that I had witnessed - such bearing among any tribe throughout Africa. They spoke well - also; the words they uttered hit the sense pat; without gesture, - they were perfectly intelligible. How strange! It was quite - delightful to observe the slight nods of the head; the intelligent - facial movements were admirably expressive. They were completely - clothed, and neat also; I ought to say immaculately clean. Jaunty - straw hats, colored neckties, patent-leather boots, well-cut - white clothes, virtuously clean! I looked from them to my people, - and then I fear I felt almost like being grateful to the Creator - that I was not as black as they, and that these finely dressed, - well-spoken whites claimed me as friend and kin. Yet I did not - dare to place myself upon an equality with them as yet; the calm - blue and gray eyes rather awed me, and the immaculate purity of - their clothes dazzled me. I was content to suppose myself a kind - of connecting link between the white and the African for the time - being. Possibly familiarity would beget greater confidence. - - [Illustration: THE WHITE-FRONTED WILD HOG OF CENTRAL AFRICA.] - - "They expressed themselves delighted to see me; congratulated me - with great warmth of feeling, and offered to me the 'Freedom of - Boma!' We travelled together along the path for a mile, and came - to the frontier village of Boma, or Embomma, where the 'king' was - at hand to do the honors. My courteous friends had brought a - hamper containing luxuries. Hock and champagne appeared to be - cheap enough where but a few hours previous a cup of palm-wine was - as precious as nectar; rare dainties of Paris and London abundant, - though a short time ago we were stinted of even ground-nuts. Nor - were the Wangwana forgotten, for plenty had also been prepared for - them. - - [Illustration: THE HAMMOCK ON THE WEST COAST OF AFRICA.] - - "My friends who thus welcomed me among the descendants of Japhet - were Mr. A. da Motta Veiga, Senhores Luiz Pinto Maroo, João - Chaves, Henrique Germano Faro, and Mr. J. F. Müller, of the Dutch - factory. They had brought a hammock with them, and eight sturdy, - well-fed bearers. They insisted on my permitting them to lift me - into the hammock. I declined. They said it was a Portuguese - custom. To custom, therefore, I yielded, though it appeared very - effeminate. - - [Illustration: THE CIRCUMNAVIGATORS OF THE VICTORIA NYANZA AND - LAKE TANGANIKA, AND EXPLORERS OF THE ALEXANDRA NILE AND - LIVINGSTONE (CONGO) RIVER.] - - "It was a gradual slope through a valley, which soon opened into a - low alluvial plain, seamed here and there with narrow gullies, and - then over the heads of the tall grass as I lay in the hammock I - caught a glimpse of the tall square box of a frame-house, with a - steep roof, erected on rising ground. It brought back a host of - old recollections; for everywhere on the frontiers of civilization - in America one may see the like. It approached nearer and larger - to the view, and presently the hammock was halted by whitewashed - palings, above which the square two-storied box rose on piles with - a strangeness that was almost weird. It was the residence of those - in charge of the English factory. - - [Illustration: NATIVE BELLES ON THE WEST COAST.] - - "Looking from the house, my eyes rested on the river. Ah! the - hateful, murderous river, now so broad and proud and majestically - calm, as though it had not bereft me of a friend, and of many - faithful souls, and as though we had never heard it rage and - whiten with fury, and mock the thunder. What a hypocritical river! - But just below the landing a steamer was ascending--the _Kabinda_, - John Petherbridge, master. How civilization was advancing on me! - Not a moment even to lie down and rest! Full-blooded, eager, - restless, and aggressive, it pressed on me, and claimed me for its - own, without allowing me even the time to cast one retrospective - glance at the horrors left behind. While still overwhelmed by the - thought, the people of the expedition appeared, pressing forward - to admire and gaze wide-eyed at the strange 'big iron canoe,' - driven by fire on _their_ river; for there were several - Wanyamwezi, Waganda, and east-coast men who would not believe that - there was anything more wonderful than the _Lady Alice_. - - "Our life at Boma, which lasted only from 11 A.M. of the 9th to - noon of the 11th, passed too quickly away; but throughout it was - intensest pleasure and gayety. - - [Illustration: NATIVE BLACKSMITHS NEAR BOMA.] - - "There are some half-dozen factories at Boma, engaging the - attention of about eighteen whites. The houses are all constructed - of wooden boards, with, as a rule, corrugated zinc roofs. The - residences line the river front; the Dutch, French, and Portuguese - factories being west of an isolated high square-browed hill, - which, by-the-bye, is a capital site for a fortlet; and the - English factory being a few hundred yards above it. Each factory - requires an ample courtyard for its business, which consists in - the barter of cotton fabrics, glass-ware, crockery, iron-ware, - gin, rum, guns and gunpowder, for palm-oil, ground-nuts, and - ivory. The merchants contrive to exist as comfortably as their - means will allow. Some of them plant fruits and garden vegetables, - and cultivate grape-vines. Pineapples, guavas, and limes may be - obtained from the market, which is held on alternate days a short - distance behind the European settlement. - - "Though Boma is comparatively ancient, and Europeans have had - commercial connections with this district and the people for over - a century, yet Captain Tuckey's description of the people, - written in 1816--their ceremonies and modes of life, their - suspicion of strangers and intolerance, their greed for rum and - indolence, the scarcity of food--is as correct as though written - to-day. The name 'Boma,' however, has usurped that of 'Lombee,' - which Captain Tuckey knew; the _banza_ of Embomma being a little - distance inland. In his day it was a village of about one hundred - huts, in which was held the market of the _banza_, or king's town. - - "The view inland is dreary, bleak, and unpromising, consisting of - grassy hills, and of a broken country, its only boast the sturdy - baobab, which relieves the nakedness of the land. But, fresh from - the hungry wilderness and the land of selfish men, from the storm - and stress of the cataracts, the solemn rock defiles of the - Livingstone, and the bleak table-land--I heeded it not. The - glowing, warm life of Western civilization, the hospitable - civilities and gracious kindnesses which the merchants of Boma - showered on myself and people, were as dews of Paradise, grateful, - soothing, and refreshing. - - "On the 11th, at noon, after a last little banquet and songs, - hearty cheers, innumerable toasts, and fervid claspings of - friendly hands, we embarked. An hour before sunset the 'big iron - canoe,' after a descent of about thirty-five miles, hauled - in-shore, on the right bank, and made fast to the pier of another - of Hatton & Cookson's factories at Ponta da Lenha, or Wooded - Point. Two or three other Portuguese factories are in close - neighborhood to it, lightening the gloom of the background of - black mangrove and forest. - - "After a very agreeable night with our hospitable English host, - the _Kabinda_ was again under way. - - "The puissant river below Boma reminded me of the scenes above - Uyanzi; the color of the water, the numerous islands, and the - enormous breadth recalled those days when we had sought the liquid - wildernesses of the Livingstone, to avoid incessant conflicts with - the human beasts of prey in the midst of primitive Africa, and at - the sight my eyes filled with tears at the thought that I could - not recall my lost friends, and bid them share the rapturous joy - that now filled the hearts of all those who had endured and - survived. - - "A few hours later and we were gliding through the broad portal - into the ocean, the blue domain of civilization! - - "Turning to take a farewell glance at the mighty river on whose - brown bosom we had endured so greatly, I saw it approach, awed and - humbled, the threshold of the watery immensity, to whose - immeasurable volume and illimitable expanse, awful as had been its - power, and terrible as had been its fury, its flood was but a - drop. And I felt my heart suffused with purest gratitude to Him - whose hand had protected us, and who had enabled us to pierce the - Dark Continent from east to west, and to trace its mightiest river - to its ocean bourne." - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - -ARRIVAL AT KABINDA.--WEST AFRICAN MERCHANTS.--DEATH AMONG THE -WANGWANA.--ILLNESS AMONG THE PEOPLE OF THE EXPEDITION.--STANLEY'S -ANXIETY FOR HIS FOLLOWERS.--THEIR FAILING HEALTH.--ENCOURAGING THEM WITH -WORDS AND KIND TREATMENT.--THE BANE OF IDLENESS.--LEAVING KABINDA.--SAN -PAULO DE LOANDA.--KINDNESS OF THE PORTUGUESE OFFICIALS.--H. B. MAJESTY'S -SHIP _INDUSTRY_.--CARRIED TO THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.--THE WANGWANA SEE A -"FIRE-CARRIAGE."--TO NATAL AND ZANZIBAR.--RECEPTION.--DISBANDING THE -EXPEDITION.--AFFECTING SCENES.--STANLEY'S TRIBUTE TO HIS FOLLOWERS. - - -[Illustration: AT REST: STANLEY'S QUARTERS AT KABINDA BY THE SEA.] - - "After steaming northward from the mouth of the Congo for a few - hours, we entered the fine bay of Kabinda, on the southern shores - of which the native town of that name in the country of Ngoyo is - situate. On the southern point of the bay stands a third factory of - the enterprising firm of Messrs. Hatton & Cookson, under the - immediate charge of their principal agent, Mr. John Phillips. A - glance at the annexed photograph will sufficiently show the - prosperous appearance of the establishment, and the comfortable - houses that have been constructed. The expedition received a - cordial welcome from Messrs. Phillips, Wills, Price, and Jones, and - I was housed in a cottage surrounded by gardens and overlooking - the glorious sea, while the people were located in a large shed - fronting the bay. - - [Illustration: EXPEDITION AT KABINDA. - - (_From a Photograph by Mr. Phillips._)] - - "The next morning when I proceeded to greet the people, I - discovered that one of the Wangwana had died at sunrise; and when I - examined the condition of the other sufferers it became apparent - that there was to be yet no rest for me, and that, to save life, I - should have to be assiduous and watchful. But for this, I should - have surrendered myself to the joys of life, without a thought for - myself or for others, and no doubt I should have suffered in the - same degree as the Wangwana from the effects of the sudden - relaxation from care, trouble, or necessity for further effort. - There were also other claims on my energies: I had to write my - despatches to the journals, and to re-establish those bonds of - friendship and sympathetic communion that had been severed by the - lapse of dark years and long months of silence. My poor people, - however, had no such incentives to rouse themselves from the stupor - of indifference, as fatal to them as the cold to a benighted man in - a snowy wilderness. Housed together in a comfortable, barrack-like - building, with every convenience provided for them, and supplied - with food, raiment, fuel, water, and an excess of luxuries, nothing - remained for them to do; and the consequence was, that the abrupt - dead-stop to all action and movement overwhelmed them, and plunged - them into a state of torpid brooding from which it was difficult to - arouse them. - - "The words of the poet-- - - "'What's won is done: Joy's soul lies in the doing--' - - "or, as Longfellow has it-- - - "'The reward is in the doing, - And the rapture of pursuing - Is the prize'-- - - "recurred to me, as explaining why it was that the people - abandoned themselves to the dangerous melancholy created by - inactivity. I was charmed by it myself; the senses were fast - relapsing into a drowsy state, that appeared to be akin to the - drowsiness of delirium. No novel or romance interested me, though - Mr. Phillips's cottage possessed a complete library of fiction and - light reading. Dickens seemed rubbish, and the finest poems flat. - Frequently, even at meals, I found myself subsiding into sleep, - though I struggled against it heroically; wine had no charm for - me; conversation fatigued me. Yet the love of society, and what - was due to my friendly hosts, acted as a wholesome restraint and a - healthy stimulant; but what had the poor, untutored black - strangers, whose homes were on the east side of the continent, to - rouse them and to stimulate them into life? - - [Illustration: GROUP OF MR. STANLEY'S FOLLOWERS AT KABINA, WEST - COAST OF AFRICA, JUST AFTER CROSSING THE "DARK CONTINENT." - - (_From a Photograph by Mr. Phillips, of Kabinda._)] - - "'Do you wish to see Zanzibar, boys?' I asked. - - "'Ah, it is far. Nay, speak not, master. We shall never see it,' - they replied. - - "'But you will die if you go on in this way. Wake up--shake - yourselves--show yourselves to be men.' - - "'Can a man contend with God? Who fears death? Let us die - undisturbed, and be at rest forever,' they answered. - - [Illustration: SCENERY ON THE WEST COAST OF AFRICA.] - - "Brave, faithful, loyal souls! They were, poor fellows, - surrendering themselves to the benumbing influences of a - listlessness and fatal indifference to life! Four of them died in - consequence of this strange malady at Loanda, three more on board - H.M.S. _Industry_, and one woman breathed her last the day after - we arrived at Zanzibar. But in their sad death they had one - consolation, in the words which they kept constantly repeating to - themselves: - - "'We have brought our master to the great sea, and he has seen his - white brothers, La il Allah, il Allah! There is no God but God!' - they said--and died. - - "It is not without an overwhelming sense of grief, a choking in - the throat, and swimming eyes, that I write of those days, for my - memory is still busy with the worth and virtues of the dead. In a - thousand fields of incident, adventure, and bitter trials they had - proved their stanch heroism and their fortitude; they had lived - and endured nobly. I remember the enthusiasm with which they - responded to my appeals; I remember their bold bearing during the - darkest days; I remember the Spartan pluck, the indomitable - courage with which they suffered in the days of our adversity. - Their voices again loyally answer me, and again I hear them - address each other upon the necessity of standing by the 'master.' - Their boat-song, which contained sentiments similar to the - following-- - - "'The pale-faced stranger, lonely here, - In cities afar, where his name is dear, - Your Arab truth and strength shall show; - He trusts in us, row, Arabs, row-- - - "despite all the sounds which now surround me, still charms my - listening ear. - - [Illustration: A DANDY OF SAN PAULO DE LOANDA.] - - "The expedition, after a stay of eight days at Kabinda, was kindly - taken on board the Portuguese gunboat _Taméga_, Commander José - Marquez, to San Paulo de Loanda. The Portuguese officers - distinguished themselves by a superb banquet, and an exhibition of - extraordinary courtesy towards myself, and great sympathy towards - my followers. Two gentlemen, Major Serpa Pinto and Senhor José - Avelino Fernandez, who were on board, extended their hospitalities - so far as to persuade me to accompany them to their residence in - the capital of Angola. To house the one hundred and fourteen - Wangwana who accompanied me was a great task on the liberality of - these gentlemen, but the Portuguese Governor-General of Angola - nobly released them and myself from all obligations, and all the - expenses incurred by us from the 21st of August to the 27th of - September were borne by the colony. One of the first acts of - Governor-General Albuquerque was to despatch his aide-de-camp with - offers of assistance, money, and a gunboat to convey me to Lisbon, - which received, as it deserved, my warmest thanks. The Portuguese - commodore gave a banquet to the Portuguese explorers. Major Serpa - Pinto, Commander Brito Capello, and Lieutenant Roberto Ivens, who - were about setting out for the exploration of the Kunené or Noursé - River, as far as Bihé, thence to Lake Nyassa and Mozambique, and - upon the festive occasion they honored me. The Board of Works at - Loanda also banqueted us royally; as also did Mr. Michael Tobin, - the banker, while Mr. Hubert Newton was unceasing in his - hospitalities. - - "The government hospital at Luanda was open to the sick strangers; - Doctor Lopez and his assistants daily visited the sick-ward of - our residence, and a trained nurse was detailed to attend the - suffering. Pure Samaritanism animated the enthusiastic Senhor - Capello, and free, unselfish charity inspired my friend Avelino - Fernandez to watch and tend the ailing, desponding, and exhausted - travellers. - - "Nor must the English officers of the Royal Navy be forgotten for - their chivalrous kindness. When I was wondering whether I should - be compelled to lead the Wangwana across the continent to their - homes, they solved my doubts and anxieties by offering the - expedition a passage to Cape Town in H.M.S. _Industry_. The offer - of the Portuguese governor-general to convey me in a gunboat to - Lisbon, and the regular arrivals of the Portuguese mail steamers, - were very tempting, but the condition of my followers was such - that I found it impossible to leave them. - - "The cordial civilities that were accorded to us at Loanda were - succeeded by equally courteous treatment on board the _Industry_. - Her officers, Captain Dyer, Assistant-Surgeon William Brown, and - Paymaster Edwin Sandys, assisted me to the utmost of their ability - in alleviating the sufferings of the sick and reviving the vigor - of the desponding. But the accomplished surgeon found his patients - most difficult cases. The flame of life flickered and spluttered, - and to fan it into brightness required in most of the cases - patience and tact more than medicine. Yet there was a little - improvement in them, though they were still heavy-eyed. - - "Upon arriving at Simon's Bay, Cape of Good Hope, on the 21st of - October, I was agreeably surprised by a most genial letter, signed - by Commodore Francis William Sullivan, who invited me to the - Admiralty House as his guest, and from whom during the entire - period of our stay at the Cape we met with the most hearty - courtesy and hospitality. He had also made preparations for - transporting the expedition to Zanzibar, when a telegram from the - Lords of the British Admiralty was received, authorizing him to - provide for the transmission of my followers to their homes, an - act of gracious kindness for which I have recorded elsewhere my - most sincere thanks. - - "Had we been able to accept all the invitations that were showered - upon us by the kind-hearted colonists of South Africa, from Cape - Town to Natal, it is possible we might still be enjoying our - holiday at that remote end of Africa, but her Majesty's ship could - not be delayed for our pleasure and gratification. But during the - time she was refitting, the authorities of Cape Town and - Stellenbosch, through the influence of Lady Frere, Commodore - Sullivan, and Captain Mills, Colonial Secretary, exerted - themselves so zealously to gratify and honor us, that I attribute - a large share of the recovery in health of my followers to the - cordial and unmistakable heartiness of the hospitalities they - there enjoyed. Here the Wangwana saw for the first time the - 'fire-carriage,' and, accompanied by Commodore Sullivan, the Dean - of Cape Town, and several of the leading residents of the Cape, - the expedition was whirled to Stellenbosch at the rate of thirty - miles an hour, which, of all the wonders they had viewed, seemed - to them the most signal example of the wonderful enterprise and - superior intelligence of the European. - - "I ought not to omit describing a little episode that occurred - soon after our arrival in Simon's Bay. For the first three days - after landing at Simon's Town, blustering gales prevented me from - returning to the ship. The people thereupon became anxious, and - wondered whether this distant port was to terminate my connection - with them. On returning to the ship, therefore, I found them even - more melancholy than when I had left them. I asked the reason. - - [Illustration: VIEW OF SAN PAULO DE LOANDA--THE FORT OF SAN MIGUEL - ON THE RIGHT.] - - "'You will return to Ulyah' (Europe), 'of course, now.' - - "'Why?' - - "'Oh, do we not see that you have met your friends, and all these - days we have felt that you will shortly leave us?' - - "'Who told you so?' I asked, smiling at the bitterness visible in - their faces. - - "'Our hearts; and they are very heavy.' - - "'Ah! and would it please you if I accompanied you to Zanzibar?' - - "'Why should you ask, master? Are you not our father?' - - "'Well, it takes a long time to teach you to rely upon the promise - of your father. I have told you, over and over again, that nothing - shall cause me to break my promise to you that I would take you - home. You have been true to me, and I shall be true to you. If we - can get no ship to take us, I will walk the entire distance with - you until I can show you to your friends at Zanzibar.' - - "'Now we are grateful, master.' - - [Illustration: DHOWS IN THE HARBOR OF ZANZIBAR.] - - "I observed no sad faces after this day, and Captain Dyer and his - officers noticed how they visibly improved and brightened up from - this time. - - "On the 6th of November H.M.S. _Industry_ was equipped and ready - for her voyage to Zanzibar. On the twelfth of the month she - dropped anchor in the harbor of Natal to coal, and fourteen days - after her departure from Natal the palmy island of Zanzibar rose - into sight, and in the afternoon we were bearing straight for - port. - - [Illustration: THE RECUPERATED AND RECLAD EXPEDITION AS IT - APPEARED AT ADMIRALTY HOUSE, SIMON'S TOWN, AFTER OUR ARRIVAL ON - H.M.S. "INDUSTRY."] - - "As I looked on the Wangwana, and saw the pleasure which now - filled every soul, I felt myself amply rewarded for sacrificing - several months to see them home. The sick had, all but one, - recovered, and they had improved so much in appearance that few, - ignorant of what they had been, could have supposed that these - were the living skeletons that had reeled from sheer weakness - through Boma. - - "The only patient who had baffled our endeavors to restore her to - health was the woman Muscati, unfortunate Safeni's wife. Singular - to relate, she lived to be embraced by her father, and the next - morning died in his arms, surrounded by her relatives and friends. - But all the others were blessed with redundant health--robust, - bright, and happy. - - "And now the well-known bays and inlets, and spicy shores and - red-tinted bluffs of Mbwenni enraptured them. Again they saw what - they had often despaired of seeing: the rising ridge of Wilezu, at - the foot of which they knew were their homes and their tiny - gardens; the well-known features of Shangani and Melindi; the tall - square mass of the sultan's palace. Each outline, each house, from - the Sandy Point to their own Ngambu, each well-remembered bold - swell of land, with its glories of palm and mango-tree, was to - them replete with associations of bygone times. - - "The captain did not detain them on board. The boats were all - lowered at once, and they crowded the gangway and ladder. I - watched the first boat-load. - - "To those on the beach it was a surprise to see so many - white-shirted, turbaned men making for shore from an English - man-of-war. Were they slaves--or what? No; slaves they could not - be, for they were too well dressed. Yet what could they be? - - "The boat-keel kissed the beach, and the impatient fellows leaped - out and upward, and danced in ecstasy on the sands of their - island; they then kneeled down, bowed their faces to the dear - soil, and cried out, with emotion, their thanks to Allah! To the - full they now taste the sweetness of the return home. The glad - tidings ring out along the beach, 'It is Bwana Stanley's - expedition that has returned.' - - "Then came bounding towards them their friends, acquaintances, - countrymen, asking ever so many questions, all burning to know all - about it. Where had they been? How came they to be on board the - man-of-war? What had they seen? Who was dead? Where is So-and-so? - You have gone beyond Nyangwé to the other sea? Mashallah! - - "The boats come and go. - - "More of the returned braves land, jump and frisk about, shake - hands, embrace firmly and closely; they literally _leap_ into each - other's arms, and there are many wet eyes there, for some terrible - tales are told of death, disaster, and woe by the most voluble of - the narrators, who seem to think it incumbent on them to tell all - the news at once. The minor details, which are a thousand and a - thousand, shall be told to-morrow and the next day, and the next, - and for days and years to come. - - "The ship was soon emptied of her strange passengers. Captain - Sullivan, of the _London_, came on board, and congratulated me on - my safe arrival, and then I went on shore to my friend Mr. - Augustus Sparhawk's house. We will pass over whatever may have - transpired among the reunited friends, relatives, acquaintances, - etc., but I will give substantially what Mabruki, a stout, - bright-eyed lad, the Nestor of the youths during the expedition, - related of his experiences the next day. - - "'Well, Mabruki, tell me, did you see your mother?' Mabruki, - knowing I have a lively curiosity to know all about the meeting, - because he had been sometimes inclined to despair of seeing poor - old 'mamma' again, relaxes the severe tightness of his face, and - out of his eyes there gushes such a flood of light as shows him to - be brimful of happiness, and he hastens to answer, with a slight - bob of the head, - - "'Yes, master.' - - "'Is she quite well? How does she look? What did she say when she - saw her son such a great strong lad? Come, tell me all about it.' - - "'I will tell you--but ah! she is old now. She did not know me at - first, because I burst open the door of our house, and I was one - of the foremost to land, and I ran all the way from the boat to - the house. She was sitting talking with a friend. When the door - opened she cried out, "Who?" - - "'"Mi-mi, ma-ma. It is I, mother. It is I--Mabruki, mother. It is - I, returned from the continent." - - "'"What! Mabruki, my son!" - - "'"Verily it is I, mother." - - "'She could scarcely believe I had returned, for she had heard no - news. But soon all the women round about gathered together near - the door, while the house was full to hear the news; and they were - all crying and laughing and talking so fast, which they kept up - far into the night. She is very proud of me, master. When the - dinner was ready over twenty sat down to share with us. "Oh!" they - all said, "you are a man indeed, now that you have been farther - than any Arab has ever been."' - - "Four days of grace I permitted myself to procure the thousands of - rupees required to pay off the people for their services. Messages - had also been sent to the relatives of the dead, requesting them - to appear at Mr. Sparhawk's, prepared to make their claims good by - the mouths of three witnesses. - - "On the fifth morning the people--men, women, and children--of the - Anglo-American Expedition, attended by hundreds of friends, who - crowded the street and the capacious rooms of the Bertram Agency, - began to receive their well-earned dues. - - "The women, thirteen in number, who had borne the fatigues of the - long, long journey, who had transformed the stern camp in the - depths of the wilds into something resembling a village in their - own island, who had encouraged their husbands to continue in their - fidelity despite all adversity, were all rewarded. - - "The children of the chiefs who had accompanied us from Zanzibar - to the Atlantic, and who, by their childish, careless prattle, had - often soothed me in mid-Africa, and had often caused me to forget - my responsibilities for the time, were not forgotten. Neither - were the tiny infants--ushered into the world amid the dismal and - tragic scenes of the cataract lands, and who, with their eyes wide - open with wonder, now crowed and crooned at the gathering of happy - men and elated women about them--omitted in this final account and - reckoning. - - "The second pay-day was devoted to hearing the claims for wages - due to the faithful dead. Poor faithful souls! With an ardor and a - fidelity unexpected, and an immeasurable confidence, they had - followed me to the very death. True, negro nature had often - asserted itself, but it was after all but human nature. They had - never boasted that they were heroes, but they exhibited truly - heroic stuff while coping with the varied terrors of the hitherto - untrodden and apparently endless wilds of broad Africa. - - [Illustration: - - 1. Wife of Murabo. - 2. Wife of Robert. - 3. Wife of Mana Koko. - 4. Half-caste of Ganbaragara, whom Wadi Rehani married. - 5. Zaidi's wife. - 6. Wife of Wadi Baraka. - 7. Wife of Manwa Sera. - 8. Wife of Chowpereh. - 9. Wife of Muini Pembé. - 10. Wife of Muscati. - 11. Wife of Chiwonda. - 12. Wife of Mufta. - - THE WOMEN OF THE EXPEDITION.] - - "The female relatives filed in. With each name of the dead, old - griefs were remembered. The poignant sorrow I felt--as the fallen - were named after each successive conflict in those dark days never - to be forgotten by me--was revived. Sad and subdued were the faces - of those I saw; as sad and subdued as my own feelings. With such - sympathies between us we soon arrived at a satisfactory - understanding. Each woman was paid without much explanation - required--one witness was sufficient. There were men, however, who - were put to great shifts. They appeared to have no identity. None - of my own people would vouch for the relationship; no respectable - man knew them. Several claimed money upon the ground that they - were acquaintances; that they had been slaves under one master, - and had become freemen together on their master's death. Parents - and brothers were not difficult to identify. The settlement of the - claims lasted five days, and then--the Anglo-American Expedition - was no more. - - "On the 13th of December the British India Steam Navigation - Company's steamer _Pachumba_ sailed from Zanzibar for Aden, on - board which Mr. William Mackinnon had ordered a state-room for me. - My followers through Africa had all left their homes early, that - they might be certain to arrive in time to witness my departure. - They were there now, every one of them arrayed in the picturesque - dress of their countrymen. The fulness of the snowy dishdasheh and - the amplitude of the turban gave a certain dignity to their forms, - and each sported a light cane. Upon inquiring I ascertained that - several had already purchased handsome little properties--houses - and gardens--with their wages, proving that the long journey had - brought, with its pains and rough experience, a good deal of - thrift and wisdom. - - "When I was about to step into the boat, the brave, faithful - fellows rushed before me and shot the boat into the sea, and then - lifted me up on their heads and carried me through the surf into - the boat. - - "We shook hands twenty times twenty, I think, and then at last the - boat started. - - "I saw them consult together, and presently saw them run down the - beach and seize a great twenty-ton lighter, which they soon manned - and rowed after me. They followed me thus to the steamer, and a - deputation of them came on board, headed by the famous Uledi, the - coxswain; Kachéché, the chief detective; Robert, my indispensable - factotum; Zaidi, the chief, and Wadi Rehani, the storekeeper, to - inform me that they still considered me as their master, and that - they would not leave Zanzibar until they received a letter from me - announcing my safe arrival in my own country. I had, they said, - taken them round all Africa to bring them back to their homes, and - they must know that I had reached my own land before they would go - to seek new adventures on the continent, and--simple, generous - souls!--that if I wanted their help to reach my country they would - help me! - - [Illustration: STANLEY, AS HE LEFT ENGLAND FOR AFRICA IN 1874.] - - "They were sweet and sad moments, those of parting. What a long, - long and true friendship was here sundered! Through what strange - vicissitudes of life had they not followed me! What wild and - varied scenes had we not seen together! What a noble fidelity - these untutored souls had exhibited! The chiefs were those who had - followed me to Ujiji in 1871; they had been witnesses of the joy - of Livingstone at the sight of me; they were the men to whom I - intrusted the safeguard of Livingstone on his last and fatal - journey, who had mourned by his corpse at Muilala, and borne the - illustrious dead to the Indian Ocean. - - [Illustration: STANLEY, AS HE REACHED ZANZIBAR IN 1877.] - - "And in a flood of sudden recollection, all the stormy period here - ended rushed in upon my mind; the whole panorama of danger and - tempest through which these gallant fellows had so stanchly stood - by me--these gallant fellows now parting from me. Rapidly, as in - some apocalyptic vision, every scene of strife with man and nature - through which these poor men and women had borne me company, and - solaced me by the simple sympathy of common suffering, came - hurrying across my memory; for each face before me was associated - with some adventure or some peril, reminded me of some triumph or - of some loss. What a wild, weird retrospect it was, that mind's - flash over the troubled past! So like a troublous dream! - - "And for years and years to come, in many homes in Zanzibar, will - be told the great story of our journey, and the actors in it will - be heroes among their kith and kin. For me, too, they are heroes, - these poor, ignorant children of Africa; for, from the first - deadly struggle in savage Ituru to the last staggering rush into - Embomma, they had rallied to my voice like veterans, and in the - hour of need they had never failed me. And thus, aided by their - willing hands and by their loyal hearts, the expedition had been - successful, and the three great problems of the Dark Continent's - geography had been fairly solved." - -Fred paused and closed the book. The young gentleman's voice was husky; -in fact it had been so at several points in his reading, and there were -tears in his eyes as a natural accompaniment of the huskiness. He had -been compelled to stop two or three times while reading Mr. Stanley's -letter appealing "to any gentleman who speaks English at Embomma" to -send relief to his starving companions, and also when he read the -account of the arrival of the caravan with provisions for the suffering, -dying people. Fred's auditors were equally affected by this touching -narrative, and not one of them ventured to utter a word for fear he -should break down before completing a single sentence. For two or three -minutes no one moved or spoke. Finally Doctor Bronson made a remark that -"broke the ice," and the formalities of the occasion came to an end. - -"That story of the suffering and relief in the last days of the journey -through the Dark Continent always brings tears to my eyes," said the -Doctor, as the party separated. "In Paris, in 1878, I was at a dinner -party at which Stanley was the principal guest. He was then fresh from -Africa, and when pressed to tell us something of his experience there he -gave the story which you have just heard. When he repeated the contents -of his letter, which he did from memory, and told of the prompt and -generous response to his appeal, every cheek at that table was wet, and -every one of the twenty or more men that composed the party pronounced -it the most affecting story he had ever heard." - -And with this little incident the members of the _Eider_ Geographical -Society adjourned to the open air. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX. - -THE LAST MEETING ON BOARD THE _EIDER_.--FOUNDING THE FREE STATE OF -CONGO.--MR. STANLEY'S LATER WORK ON THE GREAT RIVER.--BUILDING ROADS AND -ESTABLISHING STATIONS.--MAKING PEACE WITH THE NATIVES.--BULA -MATARI.--RESOURCES OF THE CONGO VALLEY.--STANLEY'S LATEST -BOOK.--STEAMERS ON THE RIVER.--THE CONGO RAILWAY.--STANLEY'S PRESENT -MISSION IN AFRICA.--EMIN PASHA AND HIS WORK.--HOW STANLEY PROPOSES TO -RELIEVE HIM.--DR. SCHNITZLER.--BEY OR PASHA?--MWANGA, KING OF -UGANDA.--HIS HOSTILITY TO WHITE MEN.--KILLING BISHOP HANNINGTON.--THE -EGYPTIAN EQUATORIAL PROVINCE.--LETTER FROM STANLEY.--HIS PLANS FOR THE -RELIEF EXPEDITION.--TIPPU-TIB AND HIS MEN.--FROM ZANZIBAR TO THE CONGO. - - -On the next day there was another meeting of the geographical society, -at which votes of thanks were given to Frank and Fred for their -successful effort to interest and amuse their fellow-voyagers. One of -the latter suggested that it would be a good plan to ask the author of -the "Boy Traveller Series" to make a book for young people by condensing -the two volumes of "Through the Dark Continent" into one, just as Frank -and Fred had condensed them for the readings they had given on board the -steamer. The suggestion was unanimously approved, and in compliance with -it this book has been prepared. - -Doctor Bronson said they would be pleased to know that "Through the Dark -Continent" was simultaneously issued in nine languages, an honor never -before shown to a book on its first publication. One of the youths said -he believed Mr. Stanley had published another book about the Congo -country; he wished to know its title so that he could get a copy, as he -was sure it would be interesting. - -"I'll tell you about that book," said the Doctor, "and why it was -written. While Mr. Stanley was making his journey which is described in -"Through the Dark Continent," an association was formed in Belgium for -the purpose of developing trade and pushing civilization in Africa. It -was under the patronage of Leopold II., King of the Belgians, and soon -after Mr. Stanley returned to Europe King Leopold engaged him to go to -Africa and manage the affairs of the International African Association, -as the new enterprise was called. He went to the Congo valley in 1879 -and remained there nearly six years. He made two or three trips to -Europe during the period of his engagement, and one trip to Zanzibar; -with the exception of the time spent on these journeys, he was occupied -with personally supervising the work of developing trade and -civilization on the Congo." - -[Illustration: NGAHMA, A CONGO CHIEF.] - -"How did he do it?" was the very natural interrogatory that followed. - -"He employed a large number of natives from the coast, Zanzibaris and -others, and established stations at various points along the river. His -first station is at the foot of the last cataracts on the Congo, and is -called Vivi; steamboats and ships of light draft can land at its wharves -and deliver or receive merchandise without difficulty. From Vivi he -built a wagon-road among the hills and across the plains on the north -bank of the Congo to the Isangila cataract, where he established -Isangila station. Along the road he carried steamboats which had been so -built that they could be readily taken apart, and put together again -when navigable water was reached. Above Isangila there is a distance of -ninety miles where the Congo is navigable, and here the steamboats were -used for purposes of transportation until falls were reached again. Then -another station (Manyanga) was established, more road was built, and so -on step by step Mr. Stanley reached Stanley Pool, at the head of the -group of cataracts that obstruct the navigation of the Lower Congo. Here -he established a station and started the town of Leopoldville, the name -being given in honor of the illustrious patron of the enterprise. - -[Illustration: VIEW OF VIVI, FROM THE ISANGILA ROAD.] - -"It was slow work building roads, transporting material, goods, and -provisions, establishing stations, negotiating with the local chiefs, -and in other ways performing the work of permanent colonization along -the great river. The expedition landed at Vivi in September, 1879; it -was not until June, 1881, that it reached Stanley Pool, above the -highest of the cataracts. To say that the Africans were astonished at -the enterprise is to state the case very feebly. They gave Stanley the -name of Bula Matari (Rock Breaker), in consequence of his cutting -through the rocks in his work of road-making. Such a thing had never -before been known in Africa, and as Bula Matari he is known there to -this day and will long be remembered. - -[Illustration: PORT OF LEOPOLDVILLE.] - -"From Stanley Pool the Congo is navigable to Stanley Falls, a distance -of nearly one thousand miles. As soon as the steamers could be put -together and affairs at Leopoldville were in a tranquil condition, Mr. -Stanley proceeded up the river and established stations at various -points. Then he explored some of the tributaries of the great river, -discovered a lake which he named Leopold II., established peaceable -relations with the native tribes, opened trade wherever trade was -possible, and learned as much as he could about the country and its -sources. On his first expedition, described in 'Through the Dark -Continent,' he learned enough to convince him that the resources of the -Congo were very great; what he ascertained during his later explorations -confirmed in every way his earlier impressions and made him an -enthusiastic advocate of the settlement and development of the Congo -basin. - -"I haven't time to give you more than a bare outline of the work he -performed there. The story is told in his later book, 'The Congo, and -the Founding of its Free State,' a work in two volumes, which, like the -'Dark Continent,' has been published in several languages. Mr. Stanley -returned from Africa in season to take part in the Congress or -Conference of nations at Berlin in the latter part of 1884, where the -affairs of the Congo State were discussed and an international treaty -was made establishing the relations of the new state with the rest of -the world. The country was opened to the commerce of all nations on the -principle of free trade; a large territory on the north of the Congo -State was given to France, while the right of Portugal to a large area -on the south was established. Previous to the Conference there was a -threat of trouble with both France and Portugal, but all was made smooth -when the plenipotentiaries met and talked matters over. - -"The progress of civilization on the Congo has been very rapid," Doctor -Bronson continued. "Before Mr. Stanley's adventurous journey in 1877 no -white man had looked upon the Congo between Nyangwé and the lower -cataracts; now there are permanent stations and trading posts all the -way along the great stream from its mouth to Stanley Falls, and several -stations have been established on the tributaries of the Congo wherever -there is a promise of commerce. The route to Nyangwé is as safe as any -part of Africa, and from thence to Tanganika Lake and Zanzibar there are -no obstacles to traffic and travel. Recently a young officer of the -Swedish navy crossed the African continent by way of the Congo, Nyangwé, -and Lake Tanganika, and thence by the usual route to Zanzibar. He made -the entire journey in seven months, or in two months less time than was -taken by Stanley for his descent of the Congo from Nyangwé to Boma." - -One of the youths asked how many steamboats are now on the Congo and its -tributaries. - -[Illustration: A PHOTOGRAPH.] - -"Mr. Stanley told me this morning," replied the Doctor, "that there are -eight steamers running above Leopoldville and Stanley Pool, and two on -the ninety-mile strip of navigable water between the Isangila Fall and -Manyanga. Several new steamers will be placed on the Congo during 1887, -some by the Congo State, others by an American trading company, and -others by the missionaries. By the end of 1887 it is probable that not -fewer than twenty steamers will be established on the Congo, at least -fifteen of them above the lower series of falls. It is in contemplation -to place steamers above Stanley Falls, so that navigation can be -continued to Nyangwé and thus shorten the time of transit from the lower -Congo to Lake Tanganika. The whole valley of the Congo is open to the -commerce of the world only ten years after Mr. Stanley's famous journey -'Through the Dark Continent.'" - -[Illustration: A CONGO HOUSE.] - -The Doctor paused a moment to glance at a slip which had been cut from a -newspaper, and then continued: - -"At its mouth the Congo River is of enormous depth, but only one hundred -miles or so above Stanley Pool, Captain Braconnier said, a year or two -ago, that 'steam-launches drawing barely two and a half feet of water -have to be dragged along by our men.' H. H. Johnston mentions the same -fact in his description of the Congo. 'Our boat is constantly running -aground on sand-banks,' he wrote. 'It has an extraordinary effect to see -men walking half-way over a great branch of the river, with water only -up to their ankles, tracing the course of some hidden sand-bank.' -Stanley, Johnston, and others attributed the remarkable shallowness of -the river to its great breadth in this part of its course; but none of -them knew how wide the river really is above the Kassai River. - -"We now have some new light on this question, which is a very -interesting one, because the Congo is next to the greatest river in the -world, and new discoveries with regard to it are apt to be on a large -scale. Captain Rouvier has been surveying this part of the river, and -he finds that for a distance of about fifty miles the Congo is much -wider than was supposed. Its width, in fact, is from fifteen to twenty -miles, a circumstance that has not been discovered before on account of -many long islands, some of which have always been taken for one shore of -the river. It follows, therefore, that there is an expanse on the upper -Congo similar to and very much larger than Stanley Pool. Steamboats have -passed each other in this enlargement of the river without knowing of -each other's proximity. - -[Illustration: THE EFFECT OF CIVILIZATION.] - -"It is easy to understand, therefore, how it happens that the Congo is -in this place so very shallow, while in narrow portions of the lower -river no plummet-line has ever yet touched bottom. Navigation in this -part of the Congo would be almost impossible were it not that here and -there soundings are revealing channels deep and wide enough for all the -requirements of steamboat traffic. - -"The great explorer has planned a railway from Vivi to Leopoldville, so -that the lower series of falls on the river will no longer be a -hinderance to commerce. This railway will be about two hundred and -thirty-five miles long, and Mr. Stanley estimates its cost and equipment -at something less than five millions of dollars, or one million pounds -sterling. He estimates its annual revenue from freight alone at one and -a half million dollars, while the passenger business would not be an -unimportant item. The up-freights would consist of cotton cloth, beads, -wire, muskets, gunpowder, cutlery, china-ware, iron, and other African -'trade-goods,' while the down-freights would include ivory, palm-oil, -ground-nuts, hippopotamus teeth and hides, rubber, beeswax, gum copal, -monkey and other skins, and several kinds of fine woods used in -cabinet-making. Doubtless other products of Central Africa would come -into market which are now unknown in consequence of the high cost of -transportation. - -[Illustration: A NATIVE OF THE LOWER CONGO.] - -"Mr. Stanley says the navigable waters of the Congo basin that would -have their outlet through the Congo railway are more than five thousand -miles in length, draining a country of more than a million square miles, -much of which is well peopled. The free State of Congo, as defined by -the Berlin Conference, includes a territory of one million five hundred -and eight thousand square miles, with a population estimated at -forty-two million six hundred and eight thousand. North of the Congo -State is the French possession of sixty-two thousand square miles and -two million one hundred and twenty-one thousand six hundred inhabitants, -and on the south is the Portuguese territory of thirty thousand seven -hundred square miles and three hundred thousand inhabitants. So you see -the Congo State, which our friend has created, is one third the area of -the United States and more than one half its population. - -"And here," said the Doctor, "is a speech made by Mr. Stanley at a -dinner which was given to him by the Lotos Club of New York, in -November, 1886. I will read an extract from it, with your permission." - -Everybody signified a desire to hear it, whereupon Doctor Bronson read -as follows: - - "I set out to Africa intending to complete Livingstone's - explorations, also to settle the Nile problem as to where the - head-waters of the Nile were, as to whether Lake Victoria consisted - of one lake, one body of water, or a number of shallow lakes; to - throw some light on Sir Samuel Baker's Albert Nyanza, and also to - discover the outlet of Lake Tanganika, and then to find out what - strange, mysterious river this was which Livingstone saw at - Nyangwé--whether it were the Nile, the Niger, or the Congo. Edwin - Arnold, the author of 'The Light of Asia,' said, 'Do you think you - can do all this?' 'Don't ask me such a conundrum as that. Put down - the funds and tell me to go. That's all.' And he induced Lawson, - the proprietor, to consent. The funds were had, and I went. - - "First of all we settled the problem of the Victoria; that it was - one body of water; that instead of being a cluster of shallow lakes - or marshes, it was one body of water, twenty-one thousand five - hundred square miles in extent. While endeavoring to throw light - upon Sir Samuel Baker's Albert Nyanza, we discovered a new lake, a - much superior lake to the Albert Nyanza--the Dead Locust Lake--and - at the same time Gordon Pasha sent his lieutenant to discover and - circumnavigate the Albert Nyanza, and he found it to be only a - miserable one hundred and forty miles, because Baker, in a fit of - enthusiasm, had stood on the brow of a high plateau and, looking - down on the dark-blue waters of Albert Nyanza, cried, romantically: - 'I see it extending indefinitely towards the southwest!' - 'Indefinitely' is not a geographical expression, gentlemen. - - "We found that there was no outlet to the Tanganika, although it - was a sweet-water lake. After settling that problem, day after day, - as we glided down the strange river that had lured and bewildered - Livingstone, we were in as much doubt as Livingstone had been when - he wrote his last letter and said: 'I will never be made black - man's meat for anything less than the classic Nile.' After - travelling four hundred miles we came to the Stanley Falls, and - beyond them we saw the river deflect from its Nileward course - towards the northwest. Then it turned west, and visions of towers - and towns and strange tribes and strange nations broke upon our - imagination, and we wondered what we were going to see, when the - river suddenly took a decided turn towards the southwest, and our - dreams were terminated. We saw then that it was aiming directly for - the Congo, and when we had propitiated some natives whom we - encountered by showing them crimson beads and polished wire that - had been polished for the occasion, we said: 'This for your answer. - What river is this?' 'Why, it is _the_ river, of course.' That was - not an answer, and it required some persuasion before the chief, - bit by bit, digging into his brain, managed to roll out sonorously - the words: 'It is the Ko-to-yah Congo'--'It is the river of - Congoland.' - - "Alas for our classic dreams! Alas for Crophi and Mophi, the fabled - fountains of Herodotus! Alas for the banks of the river where Moses - was found by the daughter of Pharaoh! This is the parvenu Congo! - Then we glided on and on, past strange nations and cannibals--not - past those nations which have their heads under their arms--for - eleven hundred miles, until we arrived at a circular extension of - the river, and my last remaining white companion called it the - Stanley Pool, and then, five months after that, our journey ended. - - "After that I had a very good mind to come back to America and say, - like the Queen of Uganda, 'There, what did I tell you?' But you - know the fates would not permit me to come over in 1878. The very - day I landed in Europe, the King of Italy gave me an express train - to convey me to France, and the very moment I descended from it at - Marseilles, there were three ambassadors from the King of the - Belgians, asking me to go back to Africa. - - "'What! Back to Africa? Never! I have come for civilization. I have - come for enjoyment. I have come for love, for life, for pleasure. - Not I. Go and ask some of those people you know who have never yet - been to Africa. I have had enough of it.' 'Well, perhaps, by and - by--' 'Ah, I don't know what will happen by and by, but just now, - never, never! Not for Rothschild's wealth!' - - "I was received by the Paris Geographical Society, and it was then - I began to feel, 'Well, after all, I have done something, haven't - I?' I felt superb. But you know I have always considered myself a - republican. I have those bullet-riddled flags and those arrow-torn - flags, the Stars and Stripes, that I carried in Africa for the - discovery of Livingstone, and that crossed Africa, and I venerate - those old flags. I have them in London, now jealously guarded in - the secret recesses of my cabinet. I allow only my best friends to - look at them, and if any of you gentlemen ever happen in at my - quarters, I will show them to you. - - "After I had written my book, 'Through the Dark Continent,' I began - to lecture, using these words: 'I have passed through a land - watered by the largest river of the African continent, and that - land knows no owner. A word to the wise is sufficient. You have - cloths and hardware and glass-ware and gunpowder, and those - millions of natives have ivory and gums and rubber and dyestuffs, - and in barter there is good profit. - - "'The King of the Belgians commissioned me to go to that country. - My expedition when we started from the coast numbered three hundred - colored people and fourteen Europeans. We returned with three - thousand trained black men and three hundred Europeans. The first - sum allowed to me was $50,000 per year, but it has ended at - something like $700,000 a year. Thus you see the progress of - civilization. We found the Congo having only canoes. To-day there - are eight steamers. It was said at first that King Leopold was a - dreamer. He dreamed he could unite the barbarians of Africa into a - confederacy and call it a free state; but on February 25, 1885, the - powers of Europe, and America also, ratified an act recognizing the - territories acquired by us to be the free and independent State of - the Congo.' - - "Perhaps when the members of the Lotos Club have reflected a little - more upon the value of what Livingstone and Leopold have been - doing, they will also agree that these men have done their duty in - this world, and in the age that they live, and that their labor has - not been in vain, on account of the great sacrifices they have - made, to the benighted millions of dark Africa." - -Here the Doctor paused to enable his listeners to ponder a few moments -on the magnitude of the work which their hero had accomplished, and also -to wait for any question which might be asked. The first interrogatory -referred to Mr. Stanley's present mission to Africa, for which he had -abandoned his lecturing tour in America. - -"What is he going to Africa for now?" said one of the youths. "I have -read that it is to relieve somebody who is shut up in the middle of the -country and can't get out." - -"You are quite right," was the reply, "but in order to have you -comprehend the situation I must give you a little explanation. - -[Illustration: EMIN PASHA.] - -"Most of you know," the Doctor continued, "about the rebellion in the -Soudan country several years ago by which Egypt lost her possessions in -Central Africa, and her power was completely overthrown in a region that -she had held for more than sixty years, or had conquered since that -time. Khartoum was captured, General Gordon was killed, and the -provinces of the Soudan became independent of the khedive. Many of the -white men in the country were forced to enter the service of the rebels -in order to save their lives, as escape was next to impossible. - -"This was the case in the northern part of the Soudan, and it was -generally supposed that the same state of affairs prevailed farther -south. The equatorial province of the Egyptian Soudan was entirely cut -off from communication with the outer world, and the belief was general -that its governor, Emin Bey, had been killed by the rebels. But in the -latter part of 1886 news came that he was still alive, and had -maintained his position in a hostile country through the fidelity of the -Egyptian troops that remained with him. He was short of ammunition and -destitute of many other things necessary for the support of his people, -his soldiers were in rags, and he feared that he would not be able to -hold out much longer unless relief was sent to him." - -[Illustration: BLACKSMITH'S FORGE AND BELLOWS.] - -One of the youths asked how the news was brought from Emin's province so -that the rest of the world could get it. - -"It was brought," was the reply, "by Dr. Junker, a Russian scientist, -who was with Emin at the time of the insurrection. You remember King -Mtesa of Uganda, whom Mr. Stanley converted to Christianity and who -asked that missionaries should be sent to instruct his people? Well, the -missionaries went there and were well received, but before they had -accomplished anything of consequence Mtesa died and was succeeded by his -son Mwanga. The son was opposed to the new religion, and very soon after -he was raised to the throne he imprisoned the missionaries and ordered -all of his people who had embraced Christianity to be put to death. -Bishop Hannington, who had gone from England to take charge of the -mission work in Central Africa, was killed by orders of Mwanga, and all -white men were forbidden to set foot in the country. Dr. Junker came -through Uganda on his way to the sea-coast, but he was brought -ostensibly as a slave by an Arab trader. Mwanga heard that there was a -white man in the Arab merchant's caravan, but when the merchant told him -that it was a slave he had bought, and exhibited the captive tied with -the rest of the slaves, the king made no objection. He was, no doubt, so -greatly rejoiced to see the white man in captivity and disgrace that he -did not wish to disturb him."[11] - -[11] Since the above was written a telegram has been received from -Zanzibar, April 15th, which says: "A Somali trader from the Uganda -country has arrived here bearing advices from Emin Bey. He was -established, when the trader left, at Wadelai, north of the Albert -Nyanza. He had two small steamers plying on the White Nile and on the -lake. In November, which was four months later than the advices brought -by Dr. Junker, Emin Bey visited the King of Unyoro, who was a six days' -journey from Uganda. Emin Bey was accompanied on this journey by Dr. -Vita Hassan, ten Egyptian officers, three Greeks, and four negroes. -Subsequently he asked Mwanga, the King of Uganda, to receive him. The -king said he would willingly receive him if he came without followers. -Emin Bey thereupon went to King Mwanga, accompanied by Dr. Vita and -three Greeks. He and his companions remained with the king seventeen -days. Emin asked the king for permission to pass through his territory -towards Zanzibar. The king, upon hearing this request, ordered the -visitors to return the way they came, and declared he would have nothing -more to do with Europeans. King Mwanga is a youth only eighteen years of -age. He has a thousand wives. Sometimes he wears a Turkish and at other -times an Arab costume, and often reverts to the native simplicity in the -matter of dress. Emin Bey, when the king ordered him to return the way -he came, went back to Wadelai, and was glad to escape from Mwanga's -country. The Somali states that the messengers despatched from Zanzibar -to carry information to Emin Bey that Mr. Stanley had gone with an -expedition by way of the Congo River to effect his rescue were detained -in Unyanyembé by the king, who was indisposed to allow them to proceed." - -[Illustration: SOME OF EMIN PASHA'S IRREGULAR TROOPS.] - -"What is the nationality of Emin?" queried Fred; "and why is he -sometimes called Emin Bey and sometimes Emin Pasha?" - -[Illustration: IVORY-EATING SQUIRREL, CENTRAL AFRICA.] - -"Emin is his Egyptian name," answered Doctor Bronson, "but the gentleman -is of Austrian birth and his real name is Dr. Schnitzler. He was an -Austrian physician at the Turkish court at one time; afterwards he went -to Egypt, and in 1877 was appointed to the command of the equatorial -province of Egypt. He is about forty-two years old, tall and thin, very -near-sighted, and a most accomplished linguist; he speaks German, -French, English, Italian, Arabic, Turkish, and several African -languages, is a great scientist and a prudent and careful commander of -his people. At last accounts he had with him ten white Egyptian -officers, fifteen black non-commissioned officers, twenty Coptish -clerks, and three hundred Egyptian soldiers with their families. - -[Illustration: BATTLE BETWEEN NATIVE WARRIORS AND EGYPTIAN TROOPS.] - -"The rank of bey in the Turkish and Egyptian service corresponds to that -of colonel in our language, while pasha or pacha is the equivalent of -general. Since he was appointed to the command of the province Emin has -been promoted; he was then Emin Bey and is now Emin Pasha. It is the -Oriental custom to put the title after the name instead of before it; -just as we might say Smith General, or Brown Major." - -[Illustration: NATIVE WARRIOR IN EMIN PASHA'S PROVINCE.] - -"And can't Emin Pasha get away from where he is?" one of the youths -asked. - -"Certainly, if he came with a small body of picked men and with reliable -guides," was the reply. "But he could not get away with all his people -and their families, and he absolutely refuses to desert them. They have -been faithful to him, and he believes in rewarding fidelity with -fidelity. - -"He cannot come away through Uganda," Doctor Bronson explained, "because -the new king, Mwanga, would not let him pass. He cannot go through -Unyoro because the king of that country is leagued with Mwanga to keep -out all white men, and kill them if they persist in entering his -territory. There is a route through Masai land, north of Lake Victoria, -but it would be unsafe, as the King of Uganda would be sure to hear of -an expedition there and take measures to stop it. He might travel -westward to the Congo or one of its tributaries without much danger of -interference, but he has no provisions and too little ammunition to -defend himself and his people in case of hostility." - -"And I suppose Mr. Stanley is going to carry ammunition, trade goods, -and money to Emin Pasha," said one of the young auditors. - -"He has been engaged for that object," replied the Doctor. "The cost of -the expedition is to be paid partly by the Egyptian government and -partly by liberal gentlemen in Great Britain. Mr. William Mackinnon, a -wealthy Scotchman, has contributed one hundred thousand dollars for the -enterprise, and other gentlemen have given freely to the good work. - -[Illustration: THE KING OF UNYORO AND HIS GREAT CHIEFS.] - -"I call it good work," he continued, "because, according to all -accounts, Emin Pasha has created a model government in the middle of -Africa, and greatly benefited the people under his charge. He has -suppressed slavery and slave-trading, taught many useful employments to -the natives, developed agriculture, the raising of cattle and other -industries, and almost entirely put an end to crime of all sorts. The -province is divided into districts, each of which has a military station -in its centre, where the taxes in grain and cattle are paid. Lado, the -capital, is a well-built town, with a fortification for its defence, and -the sanitary arrangements are of the most perfect character. Everything -at Lado is under the personal supervision of Emin Pasha, and his -subjects have learned to love him for the good he has done them. - -"If Emin Pasha should be forced to flee or surrender, the country would -speedily fall into its old ways, and all the horrors of the slave-trade -would be renewed; consequently Mr. Stanley's mission is in the nature of -a missionary enterprise, and we should all hope for its complete -success. We shall know more about it after we have been awhile in -England, as Mr. Stanley is naturally reticent about his plans, and, in -fact, cannot make them very definitely until he arrives there. So we -will drop the subject for the present, and, if there is no further -business, it will be well for us to adjourn." - -In accordance with this suggestion, the society made its final -adjournment, but we may be sure that its sessions will long be -remembered by those who attended them. - -On the arrival of the steamer at Southampton our friends said good-bye -to Mr. Stanley, with many wishes for his success in his new journey to -the Dark Continent. In response to their friendly words Mr. Stanley made -cordial expression of his pleasure at having made their acquaintance, -which he hoped to renew about a year later, if all should go well with -him and his expedition. - - * * * * * - -Mr. Stanley remained about three weeks in England, busily occupied with -preparations for his journey, and making a hasty trip to Brussels to -confer with King Leopold, who placed the Congo fleet and the property of -the Congo State generally at the explorer's disposal. The supplies, -ammunition, and other material were shipped from England direct to the -Congo, and Mr. Stanley proceeded to Zanzibar, by way of Cairo, to engage -men for the expedition. What he accomplished there is best told in the -following letter from his pen: - -[Illustration: NATIVE WAR DANCE.] - - "On arriving at Zanzibar I found our agent, Mr. Mackenzie, had - managed everything so well, with the good offices of Mr. Holmwood, - the acting consul-general, that the expedition was almost ready for - embarkation. The steamer _Madura_, of the British India Steam - Navigation Company, was in the harbor, provisioned and watered for - the voyage. The goods for barter and transport animals were on - board. There were a few things to be done, however; such as - arranging with the famous Tippu-Tib about our line of conduct - towards one another. Tippu-Tib is a much greater man to-day than he - was in the year 1877, when he escorted my caravan, preliminary to - our voyage down the Congo. He has invested his hard-earned fortune - in guns and powder. Adventurous Arabs have flocked to his standard - until he is now an uncrowned king of the region between Stanley - Falls and Tanganika Lake, commanding many thousands of men inured - to fighting and wild equatorial life. If I discovered hostile - intentions in him my idea was to give him a wide berth, for the - ammunition I had to convoy to Emin Pasha, if captured and employed - by him, would endanger the existence of the infant State of the - Congo, and imperil all our hopes. Between Tippu-Tib and Mwanga, - King of Uganda, there was only a choice of the frying-pan and the - fire. It was with due caution that I sounded Tippu-Tib on the first - day of my arrival, and I found him fully prepared for any - eventuality, to fight or to be employed. I chose the latter, and we - proceeded to business. You will please understand that his aid was - not required to enable me to reach Emin Pasha, or to show the road - to Wadelay, or Lake Albert, which is a region he knows nothing - about. There are four roads available from the Congo; two of them - were in Tippu-Tib's power to close, the remaining two were clear of - his influence. But Dr. Junker informed me at our Cairo interview - that Emin Pasha had about seventy-five tons of ivory with him. So - much ivory would amount to £60,000, at eight shillings per pound. - The subscription of Egypt to the Emin Pasha Relief Fund is large - for her present state of depressed finances. In this ivory we have - a possible means of recouping the sum paid out of her treasury, - with a large sum left towards defraying expenses, and perhaps - leaving a handsome balance. Why not attempt the carriage of this - ivory to the Congo? Accordingly I wished to engage Tippu-Tib and - his people to assist me in conveying this ivory. After a good deal - of bargaining I entered into a contract with him, by which he - agreed to supply six hundred carriers at £6 per loaded head each - round trip, from Stanley Falls to Lake Albert and back. Thus, if - each carrier carries seventy pounds weight of ivory, one round trip - will bring to the fund £13,200 net at Stanley Falls. - - [Illustration: BREED OF CATTLE IN EMIN PASHA'S PROVINCE.] - - "On the conclusion of this contract, which was entered into in the - presence of the British consul-general, I broached another subject - with Tippu-Tib in the name of his majesty, King Leopold. Stanley - Falls station was established by me in December, 1883. Various - Europeans have since commanded this station, and Lieutenant Wester, - of the Swedish army, had succeeded in making it a well-ordered and - presentable station. Captain Deane, his successor, however, - quarrelled with the Arabs, and at his forced departure from the - scene set fire to the station and blew up the Krupps. The object - for which the station was established was the prevention of the - Arabs from pursuing their devastating career below the falls--not - so much by force as by tact, or, rather, the happy combination of - both. By the retreat of the officers of the State from Stanley - Falls the flood-gates were opened and the Arabs pressed down the - river. Tippu-Tib being, of course, the guiding-spirit of the Arabs - west of Tanganika Lake, it was advisable to see how far his aid - might be secured to check this stream of Arabs from destroying the - country. After the interchange of messages by cable with Brussels, - on the second day of my stay at Zanzibar, I signed an engagement - with Tippu-Tib by which he was appointed Governor of Stanley Falls, - at a regular salary, paid monthly at Zanzibar to the British - consul-general's hands. His duties will be principally to defend - Stanley Falls in the name of the State against all Arabs and - natives. The flag of the station will be that of the State. At all - hazards he is to defeat and capture all persons raiding the - territory for slaves, and to disperse all bodies of men who may be - justly suspected of violent designs. He is to abstain from all - slave-traffic below the falls himself, and to prevent all in his - command from trading in slaves. In order to insure a faithful - performance of his engagements with the State, a European officer - is to be appointed Resident at the falls. A breach of any article - in the contract being reported, the salary is to cease. - - [Illustration: LADO, CAPITAL OF EGYPTIAN EQUATORIAL PROVINCE.] - - "Meantime, while I was engaged in these negotiations, Mr. Mackenzie - had paid four months' advance wages to six hundred and twenty men - and boys enlisted in the relief expedition, and as fast as each - batch of fifty men was satisfactorily paid, a barge was hauled - alongside, the men were duly embarked, and a steam-launch towed the - barge to the transport. By three P.M. all hands were on board, and - the steamer moved off to a more distant anchorage. By midnight - Tippu-Tib and his people and every person connected with the - expedition were on board, and at day-break next day, the 25th of - February, the anchor was lifted, and we steamed away towards the - Cape of Good Hope. - - [Illustration: SCHOOLI WARRIOR, EGYPTIAN EQUATORIAL PROVINCE.] - - "So far there has not been a hitch in any arrangement. Difficulties - have been smoothed as if by magic. Everybody has shown the utmost - sympathy and been prompt with the assistance required. The officers - of the expedition were kept fully employed from morning to evening - at laborious tasks connected with the repacking of the ammunition - for Emin Pasha's force. Letters were also sent by myself to Emin - Pasha, acquainting him with our mission and the probable time of - our arrival at Lake Albert, with directions as to the locality we - should aim for. Tippu-Tib likewise sent couriers to Stanley Falls - to acquaint his people of his departure by sea round the Cape to - the Congo, with orders to concentrate in readiness at the falls." - -[Illustration: FORTIFIED VILLAGE NEAR LADO.] - -Before leaving Cairo, where he had an interview with Dr. Junker, Mr. -Stanley wrote to the chairman of the relief committee in London, in -which he explained the objects of the expedition as follows: - -[Illustration: ISMAEN ABOU HATAB, TRUSTED OFFICER OF EMIN PASHA.] - - "The expedition is non-military--that is to say, its purpose is not - to fight, destroy, or waste; its purpose is to save, to relieve - distress, and to carry comfort. Emin Pasha may be a good man, a - brave officer, and a gallant fellow, deserving of a strong effort - of relief; but I decline to believe, and I have not been able to - gather from any one in England an impression that his life, or the - lives of the few hundreds under him, would overbalance the lives of - thousands of natives, and the devastation of immense tracts of - country which an expedition strictly military would naturally - cause. The expedition is a mere powerful caravan, armed with rifles - for the purpose of insuring the safe conduct of the ammunition to - Emin Pasha, and for the more certain protection of this people - during the retreat home. But it also has means of purchasing the - friendship of tribes and chiefs, of buying food, and paying its way - liberally." - -[Illustration: VILLAGE IN THE VALLEY OF THE BENGO.] - -The point where he expects to meet Emin Pasha is purposely kept secret, -but it will probably be at the southern end of Lake Albert, unless King -Mwanga threatens trouble, in which case the march may be directed to -Wadelay, on the White Nile. Stanley's fighting force, in case he is -opposed by hostile natives, will consist of sixty Soudanese soldiers, in -addition to the Zanzibaris, Somalis, and other east and west coast -natives, enlisted in his expedition. When he went to Cairo he specially -requested that a small force of Soudanese should be placed at his -command. Volunteers were called for, and out of a large number who -offered their services sixty picked men were chosen. These men are fine -specimens of the soldiers who composed the larger part of the force with -which Egypt held her Central African provinces. It was of such soldiers -as these that Emin Pasha wrote these words last year: - - "Deprived of the most necessary things, for a long time without any - pay, my men fought valiantly, and when at last hunger weakened - them, when, after nineteen days of incredible privations and - sufferings, their strength was exhausted, and when the last torn - leather of the last boot had been eaten, then they cut a way - through the midst of their enemies and succeeded in saving - themselves. If ever I had any doubts of the negro, the history of - the siege of Amadi would have proved to me that the black race is - in valor and courage inferior to no other, while in devotion and - self-denial it is superior to many. Without any orders from capable - officers, these men performed miracles, and it will be very - difficult for the Egyptian government worthily to show its - gratitude to my soldiers and officers." - -[Illustration: A TRAVELLER'S CARAVAN NEAR WADELAY.] - -On the long march between Stanley Falls and Lake Albert, or Wadelay, -these soldiers will perform guard and police duty for the expedition, -and will defend it if attacked. Stanley also carries a machine-gun of -the Maxim pattern, which was specially constructed so as to be carried -by porters. If the explorer has occasion to show the natives that the -gun will fire six hundred shots a minute, and that it will kill a -hippopotamus or sink a canoe at a distance of a mile, he thinks the -weapon will acquire a prestige which will make the savage glad to -renounce any idea of attempting to impede his party with their poor -spears and arrows. Lieutenant Stairns, an officer in the Engineer Corps -of the British army, who accompanies Stanley, has special charge of the -Maxim gun. - -[Illustration: A DYOOR, SUBJECT OF EMIN PASHA.] - -Two members of Stanley's party, who have been among King Leopold's -agents on the Congo, went directly from Liverpool to the Congo for the -purpose of hiring about three hundred porters to assist in transporting -the goods around the Livingstone cataract to Stanley Pool, where the -Upper Congo fleet was ordered to be in readiness to receive the -expedition. Mr. Stanley estimates that his progress on the land march -will not be greater than six to ten miles a day. - -The expedition reached Banana Point, at the mouth of the Congo, on the -18th of March, and on the same day re-embarked on vessels belonging to -the International Association, which were awaiting the expedition. On -the 19th the expedition anchored at Boma, the seat of the general -administration of the Congo Free State, and a cordial reception was -given the whole body. Mr. Stanley was confident of the success of his -enterprise, and hoped that by June or July he would be able to render -effectual assistance to Emin Pasha. The Congo Association had arranged -to victual the expedition from Matada to Leopoldville. The expedition -left Boma on March 21, arrived at Matada on the 22d, and there -disembarked, the river being unnavigable thence to Leopoldville, on -account of the Livingstone Falls. The expedition was to proceed on foot -for eighteen days along the falls to Leopoldville, where Mr. Stanley was -to be met by four steamers belonging to the Congo State. The English and -French mission stations of the Upper Congo had also been requested to -place their steamers at his service. - -Mr. Stanley's plans for a railway around the Livingstone Falls, on the -Lower Congo, have aroused the Portuguese, who fear the effects of the -new line of commerce. They have begun the construction of a railway from -San Paulo de Loanda up the valley of the Bengo River to Ambaca, a -distance of about two hundred and fifty miles. English and American -engineers are in charge of the work, and they hope to complete the line -in about three years. The railway can hardly be called a rival of Mr. -Stanley's, as it is a long way south of the Congo, and its principal -uses will be to preserve the local trade which centres at Ambaca, and -prevent its diversion to the stations of the Congo State. The surveys -for the Congo railway are in progress while these pages are in the -printer's hands. - -[Illustration: CHIEF OF COAST TRIBE IN PORTUGUESE TERRITORY.] - - - - -CHAPTER XX. - -MORE AFRICAN STUDIES.--MASAI LAND.--EARLY HISTORY OF THE MOMBASA -COAST.--MOUNT KILIMANJARO.--ITS DISCOVERERS AND EXPLORERS.--REBMANN'S -UMBRELLA.--THOMSON'S EXPEDITION AND ITS OBJECT.--FRERE TOWN AND -MOMBASA.--JOURNEY TO MASAI LAND.--HOSTILITY OF THE NATIVES.--NARROW -ESCAPES.--MASAI WARRIORS AND THEIR OCCUPATIONS.--MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF -THE PEOPLE.--THOMSON AS A MAGICIAN.--JOHNSTON'S KILIMANJARO -EXPEDITION.--HEIGHT AND PECULIARITIES OF THE GREAT MOUNTAIN.--MANDARA -AND HIS COURT.--SLAVE-TRADING.--MASAI WOMEN.--SURROUNDED BY -LIONS.--BISHOP HANNINGTON.--STORY OF HIS DEATH IN UGANDA. - - -It was mentioned in the first chapter of this volume that Frank and Fred -had provided themselves with a parcel of books which were to constitute -the reading-matter for the voyage, "Through the Dark Continent" being of -the number. Transatlantic travellers generally carry four or five times -as many books as they can possibly read during their transit over the -ocean, and our young friends were no exceptions to the rule. They were -so absorbed with the readings which have just been described, and the -presence of Mr. Stanley on the steamer, that they gave little attention -to books other than the interesting volume under consideration. - -[Illustration: TATTOOING AMONG THE COAST NATIVES.] - -But they were not to be thwarted in their determination to inform -themselves about Africa, and, after the voyage was over, devoted all the -time they could spare to the perusal of the books which had been left -unopened during the voyage. Frank busied himself with "Through Masai -Land," a journey of exploration among the snow-clad volcanic mountains -and strange tribes of eastern equatorial Africa, while Fred perused the -life of Bishop Hannington and the account of his mission to the people -of Uganda. As for Doctor Bronson, he contented himself with keeping an -eye on the progress of the youths in their readings and in turning the -leaves of "The Kilimanjaro Expedition," a volume which describes the -work of an expedition of the Royal Geographical Society for the study of -the region around Mount Kilimanjaro in eastern Africa, between the -Indian Ocean and the Victoria Nyanza. - -[Illustration: DOORWAY OF A HOUSE AT MOMBASA.] - -"What can you tell us about Masai Land?" said the Doctor to Frank, one -morning while they were at breakfast. - -"It's a remarkable country," was the reply, "and though one of the parts -of Africa earliest known to travellers, so far as its coast is -concerned, it was one of the latest to be explored. The routes from -Zanzibar to Lakes Tanganika, Victoria, and Nyassa, and the Zambezi -country are now pretty well known and almost as familiar to the reading -public as the road from London to Brighton, but Masai Land was until -very recently practically unknown." - -"Please tell us exactly where Masai Land is," said the doctor, "so that -we shall know what you are describing." - -"It is that part of Africa east of the Victoria Nyanza," was the reply, -"and of a line drawn through that lake perhaps a hundred miles each way -north and south of it. Vasco di Gama, who first sailed around the Cape -of Good Hope, landed on the coast of this region and was near being -wrecked on the reefs of Mombasa, which is its principal port. The place -is mentioned in a Portuguese book published in 1530, and a curious fact -is that there was even at that early date a rumor of the existence of -the snow-clad mountains that were never seen by a white man until 1848. -In fact, from the time of Vasco di Gama down to 1842 hardly anything was -added to our knowledge of that part of the world." - -"Are you sure about the mention of the high mountains in that Portuguese -book?" - -"Entirely so," was the reply. "Mr. Thomson, the author of 'Through Masai -Land,' quotes from it as follows: 'West of Mombasa is the Mount Olympus -of Ethiopia, which is exceedingly high, and beyond it are the Mountains -of the Moon, in which are the sources of the Nile.' The Mount Olympus -which is thus mentioned is quite likely Kilimanjaro; the Mountains of -the Moon are not yet easy to locate, as they have not thus far been -found by explorers. They may possibly exist in some of the hitherto -untraversed regions on the southern borders of Abyssinia." - -Fred wished to know who was the first white man to find the snow-clad -mountains of Central Africa. - -"A German missionary named Krapf came to Mombasa in 1842 in search of a -way to open Eastern Africa to Christianity. He began studying the tribes -and people in the neighborhood, and was aided in that work by his -colleague, Mr. Rebmann. In 1847 the latter, accompanied by only eight -men, made an expedition from the coast as far as the desert region -beyond the rich littoral belt, and reached the broken country in the -direction of Kilimanjaro. In 1848 he made another journey and for the -first time saw the famous mountain, though he was compelled to turn back -when still forty miles from its summit. The good man was accompanied by -only nine porters, and his only weapon was an umbrella." - -"Only an umbrella!" exclaimed Fred, in astonishment. - -"Yes, only an umbrella, as he thought it quite enough for a peace-loving -missionary to carry. But he seems to have changed his mind later on, as -we find him arming his porters with guns and increasing their numbers, -though he still adhered to the old weapon of his first trip. In one part -of his journal, on his third expedition, he says: 'It often rained the -livelong night, with myself and people lying in the open air without any -other shelter than my solitary umbrella.' But it is noticeable that as -soon as he began to arm his men he got into trouble, as his third -expedition was robbed of everything it possessed and Rebmann was forced -to retreat in great distress to the coast. - -[Illustration: HEADS OF COAST NATIVES.] - -"This is the last we hear of Rebmann in exploration," continued Frank, -"but his work was followed up by his companion, Dr. Krapf. The latter -started in 1851 to found a mission in the interior, but was driven back -with a narrow escape from death. He tells how at one time he was -attacked by robbers who did not stop at the gunshots fired at them. They -pressed on and on, and finally, when the situation was becoming -desperate, the doctor opened his umbrella, which so frightened the -scoundrels that they fled in terror. - -"Several explorers, missionaries, and others penetrated into the country -as far as Kilimanjaro, but rarely beyond it, in the thirty years -following 1851, and each of them found the journey more difficult than -had been the case with his predecessor, on account of the hostility of -the natives and the Arab traders. In 1882 the Royal Geographical -Society sent an expedition under command of Mr. Joseph Thomson, who had -recently returned from Central Africa, where he had made some extensive -explorations. The object of the expedition was purely geographical, Mr. -Thomson being instructed to ascertain if a practicable direct route for -European travellers could be found from any one of the ports of East -Africa to Lake Victoria, to examine Mount Kenia, to gather all possible -data for a map of the region, and obtain general information concerning -the country and its character, people, animal and vegetable life. The -story of what he did on this expedition is told in 'Through Masai -Land.'" - -"Of course he went first to Zanzibar," said Fred; "that seems to be the -starting-point for nearly every expedition for exploring Eastern -Africa." - -[Illustration: VIEW OF MOMBASA.] - -"Yes," was the reply, "he not only went first to Zanzibar, but he -outfitted his expedition at that point and hired most of his porters -among the Zanzibaris. Then he went up the coast to Mombasa, which he -made his starting-point for the land journey; he took a few of the coast -natives from Mombasa as porters, but did not find them as satisfactory -as the Zanzibaris. Among the head men that he engaged for his expedition -were several who had served with Stanley in his journey across the -continent, including Manwa Sera and Kachéché, the detective. He was -greatly disappointed with the former, as he proved altogether lazy and -indifferent to his duties; he prided himself so much on his service with -Stanley that he regarded himself as a purely ornamental personage while -with Mr. Thomson. Kachéché was somewhat better, and as chief of the -commissary department he did very well. Mr. Thomson's chief assistant -was a Maltese sailor named James Martin, who was unable to read or -write, but he had a liberal amount of common-sense that served him in -place of education. During the whole journey there was never a single -unpleasantness between Mr. Thomson and Martin, which is an exceedingly -rare thing in African travel." - -"How did they go from Zanzibar to Mombasa?" Fred inquired. - -"They went in Arab dhows," Frank answered, "and had a very uncomfortable -voyage. But as the distance is only one hundred and twenty miles, or two -degrees of latitude, it did not last long, and the whole party was -landed safely. Mombasa is on an island; on the other side of the creek -which separates it from the mainland is a settlement known as Frere -Town." - -"I've read about that place," said Fred. "It was founded in accordance -with a suggestion of Sir Bartle Frere, when he went to Zanzibar in -1873 to try to suppress the slave-trade. The Church Missionary Society -of England supplied the money, and the station was established and put -in charge of several missionaries. Liberated slaves taken by British -cruisers along the coast were sent to Frere Town, and in less than a -year after the settlement was made not less than five hundred had been -sent there. The natives of the neighborhood were attracted to the place, -the population increased, and Frere Town may now be considered the -principal station of the Church Missionary Society in Africa. At least -that's what I've read in the life of Bishop Hannington." - -"You're quite right," said Frank, "and Mr. Thomson received more help -from the missionaries in setting out for Masai Land than he did from the -Arab authorities of Zanzibar. Several of the men that he hired at -Zanzibar had failed to appear when the expedition started, and he -managed to fill their places with men from Frere Town. In addition to -his assistant, head men, cooks, and personal attendants, he had one -hundred and thirteen porters laden with the goods and belongings of the -expedition. Twenty-nine carried beads, thirty-four iron, brass, and -copper wire, fourteen cloth, fifteen personal stores, nine books, boots, -etc., six scientific instruments, photographic apparatus and the like, -and ten were laden with tents and tent furniture, cooking utensils, and -articles for the table. Then there were ten Askari, or soldiers, and -several boys who were expected to be useful in various ways. - -"He had the usual trouble with his porters for the first few days on the -road, and his soldiers were very busy hunting up deserters and keeping -the lines in order. The men engaged at Mombasa and Frere Town were worse -than the Zanzibaris, the latter being more accustomed to this kind of -work, and besides they were already a good distance from home. Every -morning the bugle was sounded and the procession started, the English -flag being carried in front to denote its nationality to all whom they -might meet on the way. At night the camp was made in open ground, where -no one could leave without being seen, and the guards had orders to -shoot any one who should try to get away. These orders were given in a -loud voice in the hearing of all the porters, with the object of -frightening them rather than with any intention of killing them. The -order had a good effect, and the men were kept under control." - -"I can't understand how it is," said Fred, "that men will engage to go -on an expedition and then run away from it at the first chance. Of -course I know there are timid persons who are brave at a distance and -cowardly when danger is near, but this wholesale desire to desert I -cannot comprehend." - -[Illustration: CAMP OF AN ENGLISH EXPLORER IN AFRICA.] - -"Evidently that is peculiar of Africans more than of any other people," -the youth replied, "since all explorers tell the same story. You -remember how it was with Mr. Stanley, both when he left Zanzibar and -later when he started from Ujiji and Nyangwé. In the first place many -scoundrelly fellows enlist solely to get the advance pay and not with -any intention of keeping their agreement. Then, secondly, all sorts of -wild stories are told by the natives of the towns and villages through -which a caravan passes, or where it stops for a day or two, so that the -fears of the ignorant men are wrought upon. In Mr. Thomson's case the -people at Mombasa and Frere Town filled the heads of his porters with -the most horrible stories of the cruelties of the inhabitants of Masai -Land, and said they were going to certain death. This alarmed them very -greatly, and even a white man would have had good reason to hesitate. It -is a fact that most of the Arab caravans that had ventured into the -interior for the ten years previous to this expedition had met with -disaster; all of them had lost men or been robbed of at least a portion -of their goods, and one caravan lost no less than one hundred men, or -one third its entire strength. - -"Mr. Thomson found that the Masai warriors came quite near the coast in -their marauding expeditions, and several of the Wa-kamba villages in the -region back of Frere Town had been plundered. The Wa-kamba people have -large herds of cattle, goats, and sheep; they drive these herds into -zeribas or stockades, at night, to prevent their capture, in raids by -the Masai. The stories of these raids continued to alarm Mr. Thomson's -porters, and, in spite of all his watchfulness, two of his men managed -to get away. The attempts at desertion were effectually stopped by the -circulation of a report that the Masai had occupied the road in the -rear, so that all stragglers and deserters would meet certain death. -From that time forward the men were kept in their places through fear of -being massacred, if once out of protection of the fighting-men of the -expedition." - -Frank paused a few moments, and gave Fred an opportunity for another -question. - -"You remarked," said Fred, "that the early explorers of the country in -the direction of Mount Kilimanjaro met with little opposition, Rebmann -being accompanied by only eight porters and weaponed with an umbrella. -How does it happen that later travellers have found the country so much -more difficult of access?" - -[Illustration: SLAVE CARAVANS ON THE ROAD.] - -"I forgot to explain that part of it," was the reply. "When Rebmann and -Krapf made their journeys the Arabs had not penetrated the country -with their slave-hunting expeditions, and consequently the people had -not been called to practise the art of war. In the last thirty years the -Arabs have pushed far into the interior of Masai Land, just as they have -pushed beyond Lake Tanganika and down the valley of the Congo. They have -made war upon the natives, burning their villages, devastating their -fields, killing those who opposed them and carrying their captives into -slavery. The terrible scenes described by Dr. Livingstone, in the -accounts of his work and travels, have been repeated over and over again -in the region which has Mombasa for its seaport, and thousands of slaves -have been shipped from that place to points where they could find a -market. The English cruisers along the coast keep a sharp watch for the -Arab slave-dhows, and when any slaves are liberated they are taken to -Frere Town, as you already know." - -"The Arabs set the various tribes to warring against each other," said -the Doctor, who had been a listener to the colloquy between the youths, -"and were always ready to buy prisoners no matter from which side they -were taken. It was estimated that for every slave that reached a market, -at least four persons were killed or perished in one way or another. -Many were killed in the attacks upon the villages, many of those who -escaped captivity perished of hunger in the forest or deserts where they -fled for refuge, and of those carried away as slaves, not half ever -reached the coast. They died on the road, of hunger or fatigue, or were -killed by their owners in consequence of their inability to travel." - -"Did the Arabs sometimes leave the weak and sickly ones by the roadside, -when they were unable to keep up with the caravans, or did they always -kill them?" Fred inquired. - -"Sometimes they left them to die or recover, as best they might, and Dr. -Livingstone tells how he saw groups of dying people with slave-yokes -about their necks, near the road where he travelled. Some of the -slave-traders were tender-hearted enough not to take life wantonly, but -this was not always the case. Those who looked upon the dreadful traffic -purely in the light of business made it a rule to kill every slave who -could not keep up with the caravan. They did so not from any special -delight in the killing, but because it spurred the survivors on to -endure the hardships of the march, and never to yield as long as there -was power to drag one foot before the other. Sometimes they tied the -unfortunate ones to trees and left them to perish; Dr. Livingstone came -frequently upon instances of this barbarity of the Arab slave-dealers." - -[Illustration: SLAVES LEFT TO DIE.] - -"The people had thus a double incentive to learn how to make war," the -Doctor continued, "as soon as the Arabs began to come among them. They -endeavored to capture each other, as a matter of gain, and then they -wanted to defend their homes and themselves. They became very jealous of -the advent of strangers, and thus it came about that travellers needed -much larger escorts than formerly. Strange to say, they had no -particular desire to stop the slave-trade, and they readily listened to -the Arabs, who told them that the presence of Englishmen in the country -would interfere with the traffic. Of course the weak and small tribes -suffered most by the Arab devastation; the strong tribes found the -slave-trade profitable, and thus all the influence was in favor of its -continuance. Along the coast towns of Africa, and in the interior -districts, you will find many a chief who mourns the day when the -foreigners put a stop to the slave-trade, and thus interfered with an -industry which he had found profitable. - -"And now," he remarked, "we will return to Mr. Thomson and his journey -into Masai Land. Frank has the floor." - -Thus appealed to, Frank went on with his story. - -"After passing the fertile belt along the coast, the expedition entered -a desert region where the sun was so hot, shade so scanty, and water so -scarce, that it was necessary to make all the marches during the night. -The men suffered terribly from thirst, as the most of them, with -characteristic African improvidence, drank up in an hour or so the -supply of water which had been intended for two days. One night Mr. -Thomson started out to find water, as his people were in a desperate -condition. He found no water, but lost his way and was unable to return -to camp. He says it was the first time he was ever lost in the desert; a -feeling of awe took possession of him and he saw lions in every bush. -Very soon he heard the roar of a lion, and then his sensations were -exceedingly uncomfortable. He wandered aimlessly about; he fired his gun -repeatedly, but heard no response. At last he was about to lie down, in -despair, when he heard the sound of a gun to which he responded with his -last remaining cartridge. Following the direction whence the sound came, -he met a search-party that had gone to find him. When he reached camp he -had been eighteen hours on his feet, without food and with very little -water." - -"And what did his people do without water?" Fred inquired. - -"Water was found the next day," Frank explained, "but not until some of -the men had so broken down that they could not go farther, and it was -necessary to send water to revive them. After passing the desert belt -they entered a mountain region, where water was abundant and the -natives were friendly. It is the region of the Wa-teita, and consists of -a series of slopes around the Ndara Mountain. The Wa-teita have herds of -cattle, sheep, and goats, they raise Indian corn, sugar-cane, bananas, -sweet potatoes, and similar articles, and have been able to resist the -attacks of the Masai, chiefly through the security of their position and -their skill in the use of the bow and arrow. The Church Missionary -Society has a station among this people, and the natives appear to take -kindly to his instruction. - -[Illustration: A SPRING IN THE DESERT.] - -"Mr. Thomson gives an interesting account of the Wa-teita women, who -anoint themselves with oil, from head to foot, and would consider their -toilet incomplete without it. They pull out their eyelashes and -eyebrows, file their teeth into points, and then cover their necks with -string upon string of beads, so that they can hardly turn their heads. -On neck, shoulders, and waist, a belle of the Wa-teita carries from -twenty to thirty pounds' weight of beads, and it is needless to say that -beads are an important article of commerce among the traders who go from -the coast to that country. - -"When a man of the Wa-teita wishes to marry he arranges the -preliminaries with the girl's father, and agrees to pay a certain number -of cows. As soon as the bargain is completed the girl runs away, and -hides among distant relatives until such time as her betrothed can find -her hiding-place, and catch her. Then he engages some of his friends, -who carry her home on their shoulders, with a great deal of singing and -dancing. When they reach home the bridal couple are shut up in their -house for three days, without food; at the end of that time the bride is -carried to her father's house by a party of girls, and after a while -returns to the home of her husband and the ceremonies are over. - -[Illustration: A WEDDING-DANCE.] - -"Leaving this region, the expedition passed through a belt of forest, -and came, at length, near the base of Mount Kilimanjaro, the famous -Mount Olympus of Africa, already mentioned. Perhaps Doctor Bronson will -tell us something about it, as he has been reading Mr. Johnston's book, -describing the exploration to it." - -"A very interesting book it is, though less so to the general reader -than to the scientific one. Mr. Johnston is, as you know, a naturalist, -and the principal part of the book is devoted to his special line of -study. The English Royal Geographical Society paid the expenses of the -expedition, and instructed Mr. Johnston to reside in the vicinity of the -mountain for at least six months, and make collections of the floral, -animal, and other products of the region, as close to the snow-line as -was conveniently possible." - -"From that I suppose that the mountain is capped with snow," Fred -remarked, as the doctor paused a moment. - -"Yes," was the reply, "Kilimanjaro has an elevation of 18,880 feet, and -is covered with snow throughout the year. The mountain has two peaks; -Kibo, the higher of these peaks, has the elevation I mentioned, while -the other--Kimawenzi--attains an altitude of 16,250 feet. These peaks -are in the centre of a mass of surrounding mountains, but none of the -others reach above the snow-line. Both Kibo and Kimawenzi are the -craters of extinct volcanoes, and the whole region round about was -evidently thrown up by volcanic or earthquake action, ages and ages ago. -In a direct line the great mountain is about one hundred and -seventy-five miles from the coast, but by the tortuous lines of African -travel the distance is considerably more than two hundred miles. - -"Mr. Johnston arrived in Zanzibar on his way to Kilimanjaro in April, -1884, and after some delay in outfitting his expedition took the route -by way of Mombasa. His troubles with porters and natives were similar to -those of Mr. Thomson, so that a repetition of his story is unnecessary. -He relates that on several occasions his camp was surrounded with lions -at night, and though the brutes did no damage, they kept up a tremendous -roaring which effectually prevented all sleeping. One night the roar was -continuous, and the voices of no less than ten of these animals were -counted; on the next morning the tracks in the soft earth around the -camp indicated that a whole troop of lions had been present. Mr. -Johnston noticed that whenever a lion was approaching the camp, and -before he had given warning of his presence by a roar, the birds in the -trees set up a nervous twittering. The approach of other wild beasts at -night was notified in the same way. - -"The slopes of Kilimanjaro between the elevations of three thousand and -seven thousand feet are occupied by an agricultural people; their chief -is called Mandara and the name of the country is Chaga. Through his -intimacy with the Arab slave-dealers Mandara had become avaricious, and -exacted a heavy tribute from Mr. Johnston, as he had from previous -visitors. The explorer described the monarch as about five feet eleven -inches in height, of dignified bearing and fine figure. He looked more -like a North American Indian than a native-born African, as his -cheek-bones were high and his nose hooked, while his mouth was broad and -thin-lipped and his chin rounded and resolute. The lobes of his ears had -been bored and distended so that each contained a ring of wood three or -four inches in diameter. The custom of boring the ears and subsequently -distending them prevails in Chaga, and very often the distended lobe -almost touches the shoulder of its owner. - -"Mr. Johnston purchased a site for his plantation after some bargaining, -and then settled down to work. Mandara presented the stranger with a cow -and some goats and sheep, the Zanzibari porters built houses, a kitchen -garden was started with a great variety of seeds of the tropical and -temperate zones, and before a week had passed the explorer was eating a -salad of his own growing. At first he was greatly annoyed by the -attendants of Mandara's court, who came daily to him on begging -excursions. He suspected that they were sent by the chief, but assumed -in an interview with that dignitary that such was not the case. By a -little diplomacy he managed to win the monarch's favor, at least for a -time, and compel his annoyers to stay away. - -[Illustration: MANDARA'S LEFT EAR.] - -"He found the nights cool at the elevation where his plantation was -situated; at daylight the temperature was a little above fifty degrees, -but it rose steadily with the sun as the day advanced. The air was pure -and dry, and Mr. Johnston says that but for the occasional troubles with -his neighbors the life on the mountain slope would have been delightful. -On certain days the natives held markets, at which he bought various -supplies for his people; he rarely did any purchasing himself, but left -the business to his head men, as the natives invariably sought to cheat -him in bargaining. - -"Mr. Johnston had brought two men from Zanzibar to assist him in -collecting birds and plants, but they proved of no use, and had to be -discharged and sent back to the coast. Consequently all the labor of -collecting fell upon himself, and he was very actively employed during -every day of his stay in Chaga. He had a great deal of trouble with -Mandara, who begged constantly for anything he wanted, and would have -soon reduced his visitor to a condition of beggary. At one time he cut -off all supplies of food, forbidding his people to sell anything to the -strangers, and placing a cordon of fighting-men around Mr. Johnston's -settlement to make sure that his orders were obeyed. He finally became -so troublesome that the explorer moved his camp to another district, -where the chief was more amiable, though not less inclined to beg." - -[Illustration: A CORNER OR MR. JOHNSTON'S SETTLEMENT.] - -"Did he get to the summit of the mountain?" one of the youths inquired. - -"No," said the Doctor, "he was unable to ascend to the top, but on two -occasions he reached the snow-line, at a height of 16,315 feet, which -was higher than any of the natives had ever been. As the height by -survey is estimated at 18,880 feet, he was within about twenty-five -hundred feet of the desired point. Vegetation ends at 15,000 feet, and -from that point to the snow-line the mountain consists of large -boulders, broken rocks, and sand. Mr. Johnston says the ascent as far as -he went is quite easy when compared with that of other great mountains -of the world, but he was not properly equipped for the effort, and his -men were unwilling to tempt the demons that are supposed to occupy the -peak. He was bitterly disappointed at his inability to gaze into the -extinct crater of Kilimanjaro, and was obliged to leave that honor for -some future traveller. - -"By the end of six months in the country around the great mountain he -was out of funds, and, as money is needed for living in Africa quite as -much as in any other part of the world, he was obliged to return to -Zanzibar. On the road to the coast he encountered a band of the dreaded -Masai warriors, and for a short time was in great danger of an attack. -How he prevented it is best told in his own words: - - "They called on two or three of our men to advance and confer with - them, so Kiongwé, Ibrahim, and Bakari went. After asking various - questions as to who I was, where I came from, and whither I was - going, the Masai leader inquired, 'Had we any sickness?' This query - aroused a happy but sadly unveracious thought in my mind. 'Tell - him,' I said to Kiongwé, in Swahili, a language the Masai do not - understand, 'tell him we have small-pox.' Kiongwé grasped the idea - and said to the Masai captain, with well-feigned vexation, 'Yes, we - have a man suffering from the white disease' (the Masai name for - small-pox). 'Show him,' the leader replied, at the same time moving - several yards off. I immediately dragged forward an Albino, who was - a porter in my caravan--a wretched pink-and-white creature, with - tow-colored hair and mottled skin. The Masai at once exclaimed, - 'Oh, this is a bad disease--look! it has turned the poor man - white!' Then he shouted out that he had no wish to interfere with - us, nor would they take anything from our infected goods. One - concession alone they asked, and this we readily granted, which was - that we would not follow too closely on their footsteps lest they - might get our 'wind' and catch the disease. And with this they - turned around, rejoined their fellows, called up their herd of cows - and donkeys, and slowly wended their way up the hilly path. In half - an hour's time the last Masai had disappeared, and we saw no more - of them." - -"And now," remarked the Doctor, "as we have seen Mr. Johnston safely on -his return from the exploration of Kilimanjaro and the ascent of that -famous mountain, let us return to Mr. Thomson and his journey to Masai -Land." - -Under this hint Frank proceeded: - -[Illustration: VIEW OF KILIMANJARO.] - -"We left Mr. Thomson among the Wa-teita people near the base of Mount -Kilimanjaro," said the youth, "and from there he went to Chaga and to -the court of the chief Mandara. Very unwisely he showed his property to -Mandara, who immediately coveted nearly everything, and managed to -squeeze out a great deal by way of tribute. The explorer did not tarry -long with this exacting ruler, but pushed on as speedily as possible in -the direction of the Masai. On the threshold of their country he met a -band of warriors and, somewhat to his surprise, was hospitably received, -though not until he had gone through an elaborate ceremony by which he -and the chief of the band were made blood brothers. The amount of -tribute he was to pay was then negotiated, and, unhappily for him, it -proved very heavy. - -"The good feeling only lasted a short time, as the news was received -that a German expedition which had entered the country a few days before -had had a fight with the Masai, and blood had been shed on both sides. -The whole country rose in arms against the Englishman, and he was forced -to retreat across the border. In the middle of the night he left his -camp, his men moving in perfect silence and very fearful lest one of -their donkeys should bray and thus show that the caravan was stealing -away. Fortunately the animals followed the silent example of their -masters, and the retreat was safely accomplished. - -[Illustration: CAMP SCENE.] - -"Leaving his men in camp in a safe place, Mr. Thomson returned to the -coast to obtain a fresh stock of goods with which to attempt again a -journey through Masai Land. On his return he had the good-fortune to -find a large caravan belonging to some coast traders who were going in -his direction, and after a little negotiation he arranged to join his -forces with theirs. Thus he was comparatively secure from danger of -attack by the Masai, but on the other hand his movements were dependent -on those of the traders, who are never in a hurry as long as there is -anything to be made by remaining in camp. On such occasions he devoted -himself to hunting, and as the country abounded in game he found enough -to do. Elephants, zebras, several varieties of antelopes, lions, -leopards, and smaller game fell before his rifle, together with several -rhinoceroses and buffaloes. He emphatically avows that he shot these -animals only for food and not for the mere sport of killing. The meat -thus obtained frequently kept his camp supplied for days and days -together. - -"Mr. Thomson," Fred continued, "is enthusiastic in his description of -the Masai warriors whom he first encountered. The elders of the tribe -came fearlessly into camp notwithstanding that in the previous year they -had attacked nearly every caravan that entered the country, and on one -occasion stabbed about forty porters without the least provocation. He -says they were magnificent specimens of their race, considerably over -six feet in height, and with an aristocratic dignity that filled the -Englishman with admiration. They referred to the attacks upon the -caravans as the most trivial circumstances, and said it was only because -the young warriors wanted to taste blood just to keep themselves in -practice. Their language was equivalent to the old adage that 'boys will -be boys, and their wild oats must be sown.' The debate ended peacefully -and, luckily for the strangers, nearly all the fighting-men were at that -time away on a cattle-stealing expedition. - -"The Masai people had a great horror of being photographed, as they -supposed the camera was a bewitching machine which would work them great -harm. Mr. Thomson came near getting into trouble by shooting a marabout -stork which he saw near the camp. It seems that storks and adjutants are -looked upon as sacred; as they, along with the hyenas, are the -grave-diggers, or rather the graves of the Masai. These people do not -bury or burn their dead, but simply throw out the corpses to be -devoured, in much the same way as the Parsees of Bombay carry their dead -to the Towers of Silence on Malabar Hill to be eaten by vultures. - -"The hunting was so good in the neighborhood of this camp that in one -day our friend 'bagged' four rhinoceroses, one giraffe, four zebras, -and four antelopes, all within six hours. He saw the tracks of elephants -and buffaloes, but did not kill any; though a hunter from the traders' -camp managed to kill an elephant whose tusks weighed a little short of -two hundred pounds. The Masai people proved to be inveterate thieves, -and, in spite of the greatest precautions, not a day passed without the -loss of more or less property which the light-fingered scoundrels -managed to lay their hands on. Mr. Thomson was looked upon as a -wonderful worker of magic, but even the respect that was due him as a -magician did not prevent the people from stealing his goods. - -[Illustration: AFRICAN ADJUTANTS.] - -"On the road the Masai used to rush up to the caravan singly or in twos -or threes and attempt to carry off the loads from the porters' heads; if -they failed no effort was made to punish them; and if they succeeded -they were not pursued to any great distance, as their friends would be -sure to come to their rescue. At night the camp was surrounded by a -stockade or a fence of thorns, and several times the Masai attempted to -enter the stockades and stampede the animals belonging to the caravan. -Hostile demonstrations were numerous, and escapes from fights -exceedingly narrow. - -[Illustration: A WELL-STOCKED HUNTING-GROUND.] - -"At a convenient point on the road Mr. Thomson left the caravan -temporarily, to make a flying trip to Mount Kenia with a selected party -of his best men. He kept up his character of magician, and, by an -ingenious ruse with his teeth (two of which were false), he carried -conviction with his assertion. 'Come to me,' he said to one of the -wondering warriors, 'and I will cut off your nose and put it on again. -Just look at my teeth; see how firm they are,' and as he said so he -tapped them with his knuckles. 'Now I turn my head and, see, the teeth -are gone;' and the crowd shrank back in dismay and was on the point of -seeking safety in flight. 'Hold on a moment,' said the white magician, -and with another turn of the head he put the teeth in place and stood -smiling before the petrified spectators. - -"He says his artificial teeth were perfect treasures to him, and -doubtless to their aid he owed his safety. But he was obliged to keep up -his exhibition so frequently that it soon became a nuisance. His man -Martin pretended also to be a magician, and told one of the Masai women -that he could cut off his finger and restore it immediately. As he -extended the finger the woman suddenly seized it and half bit it off, -which raised a howl from Martin, and caused him for the future to make -no further boasts of his magical skill. - -[Illustration: PLAIN AND MOUNTAINS IN MASAI LAND.] - -"The expedition reached the foot of Mount Kenia, but all thought of -ascending it had to be given up, as the Masai were very troublesome and -food was scarce. The mountain is thought to be a little more than -eighteen thousand feet high, and its summit is covered with snow. Like -its great neighbor to the south, it is believed to be an extinct -volcano. In fact, the proofs of its former character are clearly shown -in beds of lava and frequent traces of volcanic action. Up to a height -of fifteen thousand feet its slope is very gentle, but after that it -rises in a sharp cone almost like a sugar-loaf, and would be exceedingly -difficult of ascent. The slope of the peak is so steep that the snow -slides off in places and reveals the rocks, and to this circumstance -Kenia owes its Masai name of Donyo Egéré or 'Speckled Mountain.' - -"With various adventures and narrow escapes Mr. Thomson pushed his -exploration to the shore of the Victoria Nyanza, which he reached about -forty miles to the east of the outlet of the lake. Near the lake he -found a people unlike the Masai, as they had a decidedly negro type of -countenance. The Masai have very little to identify them with the negro, -and Mr. Thomson says they can in no sense be called negroes. In their -cranial development, as in their language, they are widely different -from the natives of Central and Southern Africa, and occupy a far higher -position in the scale of humanity. - -"The Masai people are divided into some ten or twelve tribes, and these -tribes or clans have many smaller divisions. Some are more aristocratic -than others, and there is hardly a time when two or more of them are not -indulging in war. Some of these wars have resulted in the almost -complete destruction of the defeated tribes, and the expulsion of the -remnant from the country; the defeated ones becoming peaceful and -orderly, and the victors more insolent than ever. The boys in all the -fighting tribes are trained to war; they live apart from the families -and are under the control of a leader who is elected by ballot, has the -power of life and death over his subjects, settles disputes, and may be -turned out of office whenever he becomes unpopular with the majority. - -"The clothing of a Masai boy consists of a coating of grease and clay -rubbed over his skin. When he becomes old enough he is equipped with a -bow and arrows with which he practises upon small animals, and -occasionally upon his playmates. Great care is taken in the distension -of the lobes of his ears, which are nursed as carefully as the budding -mustache of more civilized lands. A slender stick is thrust through the -lobe, then a larger one is inserted, and the process is continued until -a piece of ivory six inches long can be inserted endwise. - -"When the boy blossoms into a warrior he is equipped with a spear having -a blade thirty inches long, a short sword, and a knob-stick; the latter -intended for throwing at an advancing enemy, or crushing the skull of a -disabled one on the ground. All these weapons are made by an inferior -tribe that lives in the land of the Masai, and is compelled to do their -menial work; from another tribe of the same low grade the Masai purchase -their shields, as they never make their own. The markings and adornments -on a shield show to what tribe or clan its owner belongs. - -"When going to war a Masai removes the stretchers from his ears and -substitutes a tassel of iron rings, or something of the sort; covers his -shoulders with a mantle of kite's feathers; winds a strip of cotton -about his neck, and allows it to wave behind him as he runs; places his -sword and knob-stick in his belt; anoints his body with grease and clay; -decorates his legs with streamers of the long hair of the colobus -monkey, so that he suggests the Winged Mercury. On his head is a -remarkable contrivance formed of ostrich feathers, stuck into a band of -leather and fastened around the face in an elliptical shape. His -armament is completed by his spear and shield, and thus arrayed he is -ready for business, and a very troublesome fellow he is, according to -all accounts. - -[Illustration: EAR-STRETCHERS AND EAR-ORNAMENTS.] - -"Making war, stealing cattle from other tribes, plundering caravans, and -similar predatory performances make up the life of a Masai warrior. When -a man marries he gives up fighting and settles down into domestic ways, -and thus it happens that all the warriors in Masai land are single men. -Mr. Thomson says the Masai women are the handsomest of their sex in all -Africa; they are slender and graceful, and distinctly ladylike both in -manner and physique. They are dressed in bullock's hides, from which the -hair has been scraped; their heads are shaved smooth, and sometimes -their faces are painted white." - -"I have read somewhere," said Fred, "that they wear great quantities of -wire, the same as did the women of Chumbiri described by Mr. Stanley on -the Congo." - -[Illustration: A MASAI WARRIOR.] - -"That is true," Frank replied, "and the amount of wire worn by the Masai -women is something wonderful. Telegraph wire is coiled around the lower -limbs from the knees to the ankles, and around the arms both above and -below the elbow. Round the neck more wire is coiled; it is arranged in a -horizontal shape, so that the head seems to be sticking up through an -inverted platter. The wire is put on when the women are young and is -never removed, consequently the limbs present a withered appearance, the -legs being of a uniform size from the ankle to the knee. The weight of -iron wire worn by a Masai woman varies from ten to thirty pounds; in -addition to this, she carries great quantities of beads and iron chains -around her neck. - -[Illustration: MASAI MARRIED WOMAN, WITH PAINTED FACE.] - -"It seems almost a wonder," Frank continued, "that Mr. Thomson with his -small party was able to make his way safely through Masai Land and back -to the coast, as he did." - -"Perhaps it is a greater wonder," said Fred, "that Bishop Hannington, -whose life I have been reading, a man of the most amiable disposition, -went through Masai Land unharmed, to meet his death at the hands of -Mwanga, the King of Uganda." - -"How did it happen that he ventured there?" - -"Because," was the reply, "he had been once to Uganda by the same route -that Mr. Stanley followed, and the bishop found that route very -unhealthy, and became so ill that he was sent back before reaching -Rubaga. When he started again for Uganda, in the early part of 1885, he -decided upon going through Masai Land, as the route was much shorter and -the country far less swampy and pestiferous. The only perils were from -the terrible Masai; they repeatedly barred his way, and several times -were on the point of attacking his caravan, but, by a determined but -gentle bearing, he managed to prevent actual hostilities. Some of his -property was stolen in spite of all watchfulness, but there was no -bloodshed on either side. - -"When the caravan was within fifty miles of Lake Victoria and all danger -was supposed to be passed, Bishop Hannington decided to leave the -caravan in camp and proceed with fifty of his followers to the lake, -whence he would send word to the king of his approach. When he was near -the Ripon Falls of the Victoria Nile he was imprisoned by a band of -armed men and kept a close prisoner in a hut until word could be sent to -the king. After an imprisonment of eight days he was killed in -compliance with the king's orders." - -"Why did the king wish to put him to death?" Frank inquired. - -"The king, who had but recently succeeded to the throne of his father -Mtesa, was only eighteen years of age, and easily swayed by his -councillors. The latter were afraid of the influence of the Europeans, -as they foresaw the ultimate destruction of their power through the -advent of the strangers; they worked upon the young king and aroused his -jealousy, and easily persuaded him to take severe measures. The natives -who had become converted to Christianity were put to death or otherwise -maltreated, no less than thirty being bound together and placed on a -pile of wood where they were burned alive on account of their religion. -The missionaries were imprisoned, all teaching of religion was -prohibited, and the prospect was gloomy. - -"The old king, Mtesa, was always opposed to the exploration of Masai -Land, and did not like the idea of Europeans coming to his dominions -from that direction. His son and all the councillors had the same -feeling, and it is now known that when Mr. Thomson reached the shore of -the lake by that route he was in greater danger than he had supposed. -The chief of the region bordering the lake was severely reprimanded and -removed from office because he failed to bind the white man and send him -a prisoner to Rubaga. - -"Just as the bishop was approaching Uganda by the Masai route, news came -to the king that the Germans had seized some ports on the east coast of -Africa and were about to take possession of all the country up to the -shores of Lake Victoria. This information created great alarm, as it -foreboded an advance of the white men in that direction; while it was -under discussion Bishop Hannington reached the shore of the lake, and -notice of his arrival was sent to the king. - -"From the Ugandan point of view all white men were alike, and all were -at that time dangerous to the liberties of the country. After a short -deliberation with his councillors the king gave orders that the bishop -should be put to death; he had advocated sending him back to the coast, -but was easily persuaded to the severer course. - -"The manner of his death is thus told by his biographer: - - "He was conducted to an open space without the village, and found - himself surrounded once more by his own men. With a wild shout the - warriors fell upon his helpless caravan men, and their flashing - spears soon covered the ground with the dead and dying. In that - supreme moment we have the happiness of knowing that the bishop - faced his destiny like a Christian and a man. As the soldiers told - off to murder him closed round he made one last use of that - commanding mien which never failed to secure for him the respect of - the most savage. Drawing himself up he looked around, and as they - momentarily hesitated with poised weapons he spoke a few words - which graved themselves upon their memories and which they - afterwards repeated just as they were heard. He bade them tell the - king that he was about to die for the B-a-ganda, and that he had - purchased the road to Buganda with his life. Then, as they still - hesitated, he pointed to his own gun, which one of them discharged, - and the great and noble spirit leaped forth from its broken house - of clay and entered with exceeding joy into the presence of the - King." - -[Illustration: UGANDA HEAD-DRESS.] - -"The death of Bishop Hannington and the imprisonment of the missionaries -at the capital of Uganda has by no means stopped the work of the London -mission societies," the Doctor remarked, as Fred concluded the reading -of the foregoing quotation. "For a time it has been suspended in Uganda, -but the effort at Christianizing Africa is being vigorously pushed -elsewhere. New stations are being opened every year, and I have just -read in a newspaper that a small steamboat will soon be placed on the -Victoria Nyanza. It is to be called the _James Hannington_, in memory of -the hero missionary, and will no doubt be of great use in bringing the -people of Central Africa to a knowledge of the ways and works of -civilization." - -[Illustration: PLACE WHERE BISHOP HANNINGTON WAS IMPRISONED AND -KILLED.] - - - - -CHAPTER XXI. - -STANLEY'S HUNTING ADVENTURES.--AFRICA THE FIELD FOR THE -SPORTSMAN.--HUNTING IN SOUTH AFRICA.--NIGHT-SHOOTING AT WATER-HOLES AND -SPRINGS.--ABUNDANCE OF GAME.--DANGER OF THIS KIND OF SPORT.--LIONS AND -ELEPHANTS.--MAN-EATING LIONS.--IN THE JAWS OF A LION.--DR. LIVINGSTONE'S -NARROW ESCAPE.--THE HOPO, OR GAME-TRAP ON A LARGE SCALE.--DU CHAILLU AND -HIS ADVENTURES.--SHOOTING THE GORILLA.--RESEMBLANCE OF THE GORILLA TO -MAN.--PRODIGIOUS STRENGTH OF THE GORILLA.--HOW HE IS HUNTED.--THE END. - - -[Illustration: AFRICAN ORYX, OR GEMSBOK.] - -One day while our friends were discussing "Through the Dark Continent" -and considering its admirable qualities as a book of travel, Frank -remarked that there were few volumes of African exploration which had so -little to say about hunting adventures. "I suppose the reason may be -found," he continued, "in the fact that Mr. Stanley was too busy with -his work of ascertaining the characteristics of the country and people -to give time to hunting. Occasionally he shot game to supply his people -with meat, but in telling the story of his few shooting experiences he -is exceedingly brief." - -[Illustration: SOUTH AFRICAN HUNTING--IN CAMP.] - -"Not only was he greatly occupied with his work as an explorer," replied -the Doctor, "but he had a positive aversion to shedding the blood of -animals, not even excepting the noxious ones. If a lion came in his way -or threatened the safety of his camp he was ready enough to shoot it, -but he did not have the craving for slaughter that leads a man to tramp -all day through a forest or over hills, or sit through the night in a -desolate spot for the mere pleasure of taking a shot at anything that -happens along. Many African explorers have more to say about their -hunting experiences than anything else, and I have now in mind the book -of an explorer who gives minute details concerning all the large animals -that fell before his rifle, but has very little to say about the country -and its inhabitants. - -"For the hunter in search of large game Africa is now the best field, -but owing to the rapid increase in the number of hunters, the growing -use of firearms by the natives, and the colonization of hitherto -unsettled regions, the great animals are becoming shy and scarce. South -Africa was and still is a favorite resort of sportsmen, but every year -they must go farther and farther into the wilderness before finding what -they seek." - -"How do they get up their hunting expeditions?" Fred asked. - -"The usual plan," replied the Doctor, "is to fit out one or two wagons -with provisions, guns, ammunition, and trade goods for several months, -and then strike into the wilderness away from all settlements. Two or -three saddle-horses, together with donkeys, oxen, cows, and sheep, -constitute the live-stock of the expedition. In Central Africa it would -be impossible to travel with wagons, owing to the dense vegetation and -the condition of the country, which is full of swamps and morasses, but -in South Africa the circumstances are different. The country is not -densely wooded, and in many parts it is absolutely treeless. Sometimes -water is found there with difficulty, and every volume of hunting -adventures in South Africa contains stories of the sufferings of men and -animals through scarcity or absence of water. But this scarcity of water -greatly facilitates the work of the hunter." - -"How is that?" - -"Where the springs and water-holes are far apart the wild animals must -go long distances to drink, and if the hunter watches in their -neighborhood he will have plenty of what he calls 'sport.' A favorite -plan of these African hunters is to conceal themselves near a spring and -shoot the elephants, lions, and other large beasts as they come for -water." - -"That ought to be very easy," said one of the youths. - -"Not as easy as you might suppose," was the reply, "nor is it without -danger. In the first place very few of the animals visit the springs in -the daytime, their drinking being done at night. Furthermore, they -choose the hours when there is no moon, and thus reduce the chance of -being seen. In the moonless part of a month they come at any hour -between darkness and daylight, but usually about midnight; on the nights -when the moon shines they select the hours when it is below the horizon. -Thus if the moon rises early they wait until it has set, and if it rises -late they come to drink before it is above the horizon. One hunter says -that if it had not been for this habit there is many a lion, rhinoceros, -or elephant now roaming the forests of South Africa that would have -fallen before his rifle. He says he has frequently heard a lion lapping -the water within a dozen paces of him when the night was so dark that he -could not get a sight of the brute." - -"Do all the wild animals of Africa observe this rule?" - -"None of them do so absolutely, and some are more observant of it than -others. But all seem to know that there is danger near their -drinking-places, and they conduct themselves accordingly. - -[Illustration: NIGHT HUNTING. ELEPHANTS COMING TO DRINK.] - -"A great deal depends upon the selection of the spot for concealment, -and in making his selection the hunter has many things to think of. He -must carefully observe the direction of the wind and make sure that it -blows towards him from the places whence the animals approach the -drinking-spot. Then, if possible, he must so station himself that -elephants, giraffes, and other large animals will be outlined against -the sky as they come within his range. He digs a pit three or four feet -deep and surrounds it with brushwood so that the change of the ground is -not likely to be noticed. Sometimes there is a convenient ant-hill close -to the drinking-place, and if so this forms an excellent shooting-box, -as the animals are familiar with its appearance and therefore are not -likely to suspect that it conceals anything dangerous. - -[Illustration: AN AFRICAN SERENADE.] - -"One famous hunter, Andersson, gives it as his opinion that a night -ambush beside an African pool, frequented by large animals, is worth all -other modes of enjoying a gun put together. Other hunters express the -same opinion, though some of them admit that it is a cruel sort of -sport, as it takes the prey wholly unawares and with little chance for -defence or escape. The peril of this sort of hunting is that sometimes -an elephant, rhinoceros, or lion discovers whence came the shot that -wounded him, and charges directly at the spot. In such a case the -hunter in his pit is at a disadvantage, and his chief hope of safety is -by a well-directed bullet when his assailant is within short range. -Sometimes a wounded or frightened elephant runs straight to the spot, in -his terror, and is liable to kill the hunter by tumbling upon him. There -is one instance I have read of, wherein an elephant ran directly over -the hunter, who was lying flat on the ground; the great feet of the -animal grazed the head of his would-be slayer, but did not harm him. Had -the elephant been less frightened he would have made short work of the -man." - -"Is a lion more dangerous than an elephant in a case of this kind?" -asked one of the youths. - -[Illustration: CLOSE SHAVE BY AN ELEPHANT.] - -"There is not much to choose between them," Doctor Bronson answered, "as -both are to be dreaded, perhaps the lion more than the larger animal. -Neither the lion nor the elephant will attack man without provocation, -but when wounded they are very likely to turn upon their assailants. The -courage of the lion has been greatly overrated in story-books, and also -his noble conduct. The hunters who have made his intimate acquaintance, -and written about him, say his characteristics are much like those of -the hyena, and, like the latter beast, he is a skulking rather than an -honorable foe. The female accompanied by her young is apt to be -dangerous, but as for the male lion it can be set down as pretty certain -that he will retire from danger if he has a chance to do so, even at the -expense of his dignity." - -"Haven't I read of lions watching by the roadside and killing men and -women without provocation?" said Fred. - -[Illustration: DEATH-GRAPPLE WITH A LION.] - -"Undoubtedly you have," was the reply. "The lions thus described are the -dreaded man-eaters, who rank with the man-eating tigers of India. Having -once tasted human flesh and learned how easily it is procured, they lie -in wait by the roads and paths, and spring upon the unfortunates who -come within their reach. A man-eating lion will pass through an entire -herd of cattle to get at one of the herdsmen; his movements are as -stealthy as those of the cat, and the victim never has the least warning -of his enemy's approach. Very properly he is the subject of dread, and -when a man-eater appears in the neighborhood of a settlement, large -rewards are offered for his head. Sometimes there is an entire -suspension of work and business until the man-eater has been killed or -driven away. These man-eaters have been known to come into a camp, -spring upon a man asleep by the side of his companions, drag him into -the bushes, and deliberately kill and devour him under protection of the -darkness. While the lion, under ordinary circumstances, is not an object -of any especial dread on the part of hunters, all have a terror of the -man-eater. - -"You never know, when you attack a lion, whether he will slink away or -turn upon you; and every African hunter can tell stories of narrow -escapes. As an illustration I will repeat one that was told to Mr. -Andersson by the hero of it. - -"He had gone out with some of his friends in search of five lions that -had broken into his cattle-enclosure the previous night. The lions were -tracked to a thicket of reeds, which were set on fire, the hunters being -stationed around the thicket to intercept the animals as they came out. -One lion took the direction in which two of the hunters were stationed, -one of them being the narrator of the story. - -"He fired, inflicting only a slight wound. Immediately the lion sprang -upon him; he thrust his gun into the lion's mouth, but the weapon was -demolished in an instant. 'At that moment,' said he, 'the other hunter -fired and the lion fell with a broken shoulder, so that I was able to -rise and scamper away. But the lion was not done with me; in spite of -his crippled condition he came after me, and my foot catching in a -creeper, I fell to the ground. He was upon me again, tearing my clothing -with his claws and grazing the skin in his efforts to grasp my hip. He -laid hold of my left wrist and crushed it, and he tore my right hand so -that I was totally helpless. Just as he had done this my friend came up -again, accompanied by his dog, which seized the lion by the leg and thus -drew his attention from me. My friend watched his chance and fired at -very close range; the ball crashed through the lion's skull and -stretched him on the ground by my side.' The mutilated hunter was -carried to camp, and eventually recovered from his wounds, but his left -wrist was permanently crippled. - -"Doctor Livingstone was once in a similar peril," continued Doctor -Bronson, as he opened the account of the famous missionary's travels and -researches in South Africa. "Here is his account of the occurrence: - - "It is well known that if one of a troop of lions is killed the - others take the hint and leave that part of the country. So, the - next time the herds were attacked I went with the people in order - to encourage them to rid themselves of the annoyance by destroying - one of the marauders. We found the lions on a small hill, about a - quarter of a mile in length and covered with trees. A circle of men - was formed round it, and they gradually closed up, ascending pretty - near each other. Being down below on the plain, with a native - schoolmaster named Mebalwe, a most excellent man, I saw one of the - lions sitting on a rock, within the now closed circle of men. - Mebalwe fired at him before I could, and the ball struck the rock - on which the animal was sitting. He bit at the spot struck, as a - dog does at a stick or stone thrown at him; then, leaping away, - broke through the opening circle and escaped unhurt. The men were - afraid to attack him, perhaps on account of their belief in - witchcraft. - - [Illustration: RHINOCEROS AND DOGS.] - - "When the circle was re-formed we saw two other lions in it; but we - were afraid to fire lest we should strike the men, and they allowed - the beasts to burst through also. Seeing we could not get the - people to kill one of the lions we bent our steps towards the - village; in going round the end of the hill, however, I saw one of - the beasts sitting on a piece of rock as before, but he had a - little bush in front. Being about thirty yards off, I took a good - aim at his body, through the bush, and fired both barrels into it. - The men then called out, 'He is shot! he is shot!' I saw the lion's - tail erected in anger behind the bush, and, turning to the people, - said, 'Stop a little, till I load again.' When in the act of - ramming down the bullets I heard a shout. - - [Illustration: DR. LIVINGSTONE IN THE LION'S GRASP.] - - "Starting and looking half round, I saw the lion just in the act of - springing upon me. I was upon a little height; he caught my - shoulder as he sprang, and we both came to the ground below - together. Growling horribly, he shook me as a terrier dog does a - rat. The shock produced a stupor similar to that which seems to be - felt by a mouse after the first shake of a cat. It caused a sort of - dreaminess in which there was no sense of pain nor feeling of - terror, though quite conscious of all that was happening. It was - like what patients partially under the influence of chloroform - describe, who see all the operation but feel not the knife. This - singular condition was not the result of any mental process. The - shake annihilated fear, and allowed no sense of horror in looking - around at the beast. This peculiar state is probably produced in - all animals killed by the carnivora; and, if so, it is a merciful - provision by our benevolent Creator for lessening the pain of - death. - - "Turning round to relieve myself of the weight, as he had one paw - on the back of my head, I saw his eyes directed to Mebalwe, who was - trying to shoot him at a distance of twelve or fifteen yards. His - gun, a flint one, missed fire in both barrels; the lion immediately - left me and, attacking Mebalwe, bit his thigh. Another man whose - life I had saved before, after he had been tossed by a buffalo, - attempted to spear the lion while he was biting Mebalwe. He left - Mebalwe and caught this man by the shoulder, but at that moment the - bullets he had received took effect, and he fell down dead. The - whole was the work of a few moments, and must have been the - paroxysms of his dying rage. Besides crushing the bone into - splinters, he left eleven teeth wounds in the upper part of my - arm." - -"Dr. Livingstone resembled Mr. Stanley in having no special fondness for -hunting," continued Doctor Bronson, "and he has given us comparatively -few hunting adventures in the record of his explorations. He gives an -interesting account of the way the people of South Africa hunt game by -driving, in the seasons when water is scarce and the wild animals -congregate near the places where they can drink. They arrange two hedges -in the shape of the letter V, each hedge being a mile or two in length -and fully a mile across at the entrance. Then a large party of men go -out quietly, and move so as to drive the game into the opening. The -hedges are low at first, but as they approach each other they are -increased in strength, so that the animals cannot break through them. -The enclosure is called a 'hopo;' at its end there is a pit with a fall -of six or eight feet from the end of the hopo, so that the animals which -jump in cannot easily spring out again. Buffaloes, zebras, giraffes, -hartebeests, gnus, antelopes, oryxes, and similar animals are caught in -these pits; sometimes lions are driven in, but they can easily spring -over the hedges, and no attempt is made to stop them." - -"That kind of hunting is not confined to South Africa, I believe," said -Frank. - -[Illustration: THE HOPO, OR TRIP FOR DRIVING GAME.] - -"Not by any means," was the reply; "it is known over pretty nearly the -whole world. It is used in India and Ceylon for trapping elephants, in -Australia for capturing kangaroos, and in other parts of the world for -other animals. Hunting by _battue_, or beating, is as old almost as man -himself, and has been practised in all ages; the chief difference -between the ordinary hunt by _battue_ and the capture of game in a hopo -is that in the latter instance the game is caught in a pit or enclosure, -while usually it is shot or otherwise killed as the lines of men are -drawn closely together. In many hunts of this sort the use of firearms -is forbidden on account of the danger of accidents, and where they are -permitted it is generally the rule to fire towards the outside of the -cordon of men and not towards the inside. - -[Illustration: PAUL DU CHAILLU IN AFRICA.] - -"One of the most famous hunters in Africa," said Doctor Bronson, after a -pause, "was Paul du Chaillu, who has written several books, interesting -alike to young and old. When he first published the account of his -adventures his stories were received with incredulity, but as Africa has -become better known the truth of his assertions has been made manifest. -He was the first white man to hunt the gorilla, and probably the first -who ever saw one of those animals. In the course of his explorations he -travelled some eight thousand miles, nearly always on foot and -unaccompanied by a white man. - -[Illustration: GORILLA HUNTING--MOTHER AND YOUNG AT PLAY.] - -"Nearly everywhere that he went he managed to get on friendly terms with -the natives, who had not then been contaminated by contact with the Arab -slave-hunters. Once his cook, whom he had brought from the coast, -attempted to poison him, and with this object put two spoonfuls of -arsenic in Du Chaillu's soup. The great overdose caused it to act as an -emetic, and thus the explorer's life was saved. The cook fled to the -woods when charged with the attempt to kill his master, but was caught -by the natives and sentenced to death. Du Chaillu interfered and saved -the fellow's life, and he was delivered in chains to the custody of his -brothers, who came to intercede for him. - -"Du Chaillu tells of one tribe of natives on the African coast who -choose their chief or king by election, and may therefore be called -republicans. When a king dies his body is secretly buried, and there is -mourning for six days. During this time the old men meet to choose a new -king; the choice is made in private, and neither the people nor the new -king are informed of the result until the morning of the seventh day. -The information is kept from the man of their selection until the very -last. - -"As soon as it is known who has been chosen the people surround him, -pound him with their fists or with sticks, throw all sorts of disgusting -objects at him, spit in his face, kick him, roll him on the ground, and -otherwise maltreat and abuse him. Those who cannot get at him by reason -of the crowd utter all sorts of uncomplimentary phrases, and they -anathematize not only him but all his relatives in every generation. Du -Chaillu thought the man's life was in real danger; but the secret of the -whole business was shown by some of the men occasionally shouting out, -'You are not our king yet; for a little while we will do what we please -with you. By and by we shall have to obey your will.' - -"He is expected to endure all this with a smiling face and to keep his -temper throughout. When it has gone on for an hour or so he is taken to -the old king's house, where he is seated, and for a little while -receives a torrent of abuse, but this time it is entirely in words. Then -all become silent, the elders rise and say, the people repeating after -them: - -"'Now we choose you for our king; we engage to listen to you and to obey -you.' - -"Then the emblems of royalty are brought out, and the ceremonies of -coronation take place with the most profound dignity. The king is -dressed in a red gown and receives every mark of respect from those who -so lately abused him. After the coronation he must remain for six days -in the house, and during all this period there are loud rejoicings, and -all his subjects come to pay their respects. The old king was mourned -for six days, and it is considered nothing more than proper that the new -one should have six days of rejoicing. The fact is, the new one is -pretty nearly half dead at the end of the festival, as he is obliged to -receive all comers at any hour of day or night, and sit down and eat and -drink with them. Doubtless he is thoroughly happy when the festival is -over, and he can walk out and view his dominions. - -[Illustration: DU CHAILLU'S FIRST GORILLA.] - -"The explorer gives an interesting account of the gorilla, and his first -meeting with the animal makes a dramatic scene in his story. He had just -shot a snake, which his men devoured with delight, but our friend, -though very hungry, could not venture upon this sort of food. -Noticing some sugar-canes growing near, he proceeded to cut them, in -order to suck the juice and satisfy the cravings of his appetite. - -[Illustration: HEAD OF KOOLOO-KAMBA.] - -"As he was cutting the canes, assisted by his men, the latter called his -attention to several that had been broken down and chewed into fragments -while others had been torn up by the roots. It was evidently the work of -gorillas, and threw the whole party into a state of great excitement. -The tracks in the soft earth showed that there were several gorillas in -company, and immediately Du Chaillu proceeded to hunt them. - -[Illustration: EAR OF KOOLOO-KAMBA.] - -"He divided his men into two parties, one led by himself and the other -by an attendant named Makinda. The animals were supposed to be behind a -large rock, and the two parties moved so as to encircle it. Suddenly -there was a cry which had a very human sound, and four young gorillas -ran from the concealment of the rock towards the forest. He says they -ran on their hind-legs and looked wonderfully like hairy men as they -inclined their bodies forward, held their heads down, and to all -appearances were like men running for their lives to escape from danger. -Du Chaillu fired at them, but hit nothing, and the animals made good -their escape. The party ran after them till all were out of breath and -then returned to camp. He says he felt very much like a murderer, as the -animals had so nearly the appearance of humanity. - -"Some days later he was more successful in hunting the gorilla. He was -out with his party, when suddenly the sound of the breaking of a branch -of a tree was heard. The natives intimated that they were near a -gorilla, and very cautiously all proceeded; soon they came in sight of -the huge beast breaking down the limbs and branches of the trees to get -at the berries. They stood still, as he was moving in their direction, -and in a little while he was right in front of them. He had moved -through the jungle on all fours, but as he came in sight of the party he -stood erect like a man. - -[Illustration: DU CHAILLU ASCENDING AN AFRICAN RIVER.] - -"Then he gave vent to a tremendous barking roar which is very difficult -to describe, and beat his breasts with his huge fists till they -resounded like drums. This is the gorilla's mode of offering defiance, -roaring and beating the breast at the same time. The roar begins with a -sharp bark, like that of an angry dog, then glides into a deep bass -roll, which literally and closely resembles the roll of distant thunder, -so that it is sometimes taken for it when the animal is not in sight. - -"The gorilla was about twelve yards from Du Chaillu when he first -appeared; he advanced a few steps, then stopped and roared and beat his -breasts again, then made another advance and stopped about six yards -away. As he stopped a second time, Du Chaillu fired and killed him. The -shot was well aimed, and death was almost instantaneous. Measurement -showed that the animal was five feet eight inches in height, but when -standing erect, at his first appearance, he seemed to be fully six feet. - -"During his wanderings in Africa Mr. Du Chaillu killed several gorillas, -whose skins and skeletons he preserved and sent to England and America, -where they attracted much attention in the scientific world. On two or -three occasions he was fortunate enough to capture some young gorillas -alive, but found it impossible to tame them. They showed the most -furious temper and bit at everybody who came near them; at first they -refused food, but after a while their hunger got the best of their -obstinacy and they ate the berries and leaves that were gathered for -them from their native forests. But all sickened and died, and I believe -that no one has ever succeeded in taming one of these animals." - -"Was nothing known about the gorilla until Mr. Du Chaillu hunted him?" -Fred asked, as Doctor Bronson paused. - -"Something was known about him," was the reply, "but not a great deal; -he had been heard of for several centuries, but no white man had ever -seen a living or even a dead gorilla. Dr. Wilson, a missionary on the -west coast of Africa, discovered the skull of a gorilla in 1846, and a -year later he found the skull and part of the skeleton of another. These -relics were sent, one to Dr. Savage, of Boston, and the other--the -second discovery--to the Boston Society of Natural History. - -"Wonderful stories were told about this animal by the negroes. It was -said that he lurked upon trees, by the roadside or overhanging the -paths, drew up unsuspecting passers-by with his paws, and then choked -them to death. He was said to carry a stick or staff when walking, and -to use it as a weapon of defence; troops of gorillas thus attacked -elephants and beat them to death; the gorilla built himself a house of -leaves and twigs among the trees and sat on the roof; and sometimes -whole armies of gorillas banded together for purposes of war. All these -stories proved to be fables; almost the only truthful account of the -gorilla's prowess was that he was a terrible fighter and more than a -match for a lion. Mr. Du Chaillu says that the lion does not inhabit the -same region with the gorilla, and there is little doubt that the latter -can whip the lion in ordinary combat. - -[Illustration: GORILLA SKULL.] - -"The strength of this creature is prodigious. A young one, two or three -years old, requires four strong men to hold it, and even then in its -struggles it is likely to bite one or more of them severely. It can dent -a musket-barrel with its teeth, and an adult gorilla will bend a musket -as though it were made of the softest wood. It can break off trees three -or four inches in diameter, and a single blow of one of its fists will -smash a man's skull like a sledge-hammer. It fights with arms and teeth, -and does terrible execution with both." - -[Illustration: HUMAN SKULL.] - -"Does the gorilla walk erect like man, or on all-fours like the other -members of the ape family?" Frank inquired. - -"Ordinarily it walks on all-fours," the Doctor answered, "but under -certain circumstances it stands erect. When it advances to meet an -assailant, or when desiring to look around, it rises to an erect -position, and then assumes its greatest resemblance to man. If you look -at the human and the gorilla skeletons side by side, you will perceive a -great difference in their structure and readily understand how the -locomotion of the gorilla on his hind-feet alone would not be altogether -convenient. The fore-legs, or arms, of the gorilla are very much longer -than those of man, and also very much stronger. A man unarmed could -offer no practical resistance to a gorilla, and all who have hunted him -understand this fact." - -"Do they hunt him with anything else than guns?" - -[Illustration: SKELETONS OF MAN AND THE GORILLA.] - -"No; or, at any rate, they only do so on very rare occasions. The rule -of the gorilla-hunter is to wait until the animal is quite near, say -within twenty feet, before firing. Unless the first shot is fatal or can -be immediately followed by another from a repeating rifle or a gun in -the hands of others standing near, the man who fired the first shot is -almost certain to be killed. The gorilla rushes upon him, and there is -no chance for defence or flight. A single blow from the animal's fist -generally terminates the struggle. One of Du Chaillu's companions was -killed in this way, and the great hunter himself had a narrow escape. He -said it was very trying to his nerves to stand and wait five minutes or -more while the gorilla was advancing slowly, halting occasionally to -beat its breast and utter its cries, until he was in the very short -range desired." - -"What do you think of the relation of the gorilla to man?" Fred asked, -with a smile developed on his face. - -[Illustration: A YOUNG GORILLA--DU CHAILLU'S CAPTIVE.] - -"That is a question I hesitate to discuss, as I am not versed in the -arguments that have been advanced by the scientists. Perhaps we'll talk -that over some other time, when we have more light on the subject. Du -Chaillu says that the gorilla skeleton, the skull excepted, resembles -the bony frame of man more than does that of any other anthropoid ape. -The form and proportion of the pelvis, the number of ribs, the length of -the arm, the width of the hand, and the structure and arches of the -feet--all these characteristics and some of its habits, appeared to the -hunter and explorer to place the gorilla nearer to man than any other -anthropoid ape is placed." - -Doctor Bronson paused and looked at his watch; and his action was taken -as a signal for suspending the talk about the wild animals of Africa. -Frank and Fred thanked their mentor for the information he had given -them, and especially about the gorilla; their curiosity had been roused -by the repeated mention of the Soko in Mr. Stanley's story of his -journey "through the Dark Continent," and consequently the account of -this strange beast was heard with interest. - -And as their conversation comes to an end we will return our thanks to -the trio of travellers, Doctor Bronson, Frank, and Fred, and express the -hope that we shall meet them again. - -THE END. - - - - -INTERESTING BOOKS FOR BOYS. - - * * * * * - -BOUND VOLUMES OF HARPER'S YOUNG PEOPLE for 1883, 1884, and 1885. -Handsomely Bound in Illuminated Cloth, $3.00 per vol. _Bound Volumes -for_ 1880, 1881, 1882, _and_ 1886, _are out of stock_. - -THE BOY TRAVELLERS ON THE CONGO. 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