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<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 60009 ***</div>
<div class='figcenter id001'>
<img src='images/cover.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' />
</div>
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<hr class='pb c000' />
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<div class='nf-center-c0'>
<div class='nf-center c001'>
<div>PRICE ONE SHILLING.</div>
</div>
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<hr class='c002' />
<div>
<h1 class='c003'><span class='xxlarge'>The Philosophy of Beards.</span></h1>
</div>
<hr class='c004' />
<div class='nf-center-c0'>
<div class='nf-center'>
<div><span class='xlarge'>Physiological, Artistic & Historical.</span></div>
<div class='c000'>by</div>
<div class='c000'><span class='large'>T. S. Gowing.</span></div>
</div>
</div>
<div class='blackletter'>
<div class='nf-center-c0'>
<div class='nf-center'>
<div>Ipswich.</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class='nf-center-c0'>
<div class='nf-center'>
<div>Published by <span class='large'>J. Haddock.</span></div>
</div>
</div>
<div class='blackletter'>
<div class='nf-center-c0'>
<div class='nf-center'>
<div><span class="gs4">Londo</span>n:</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class='nf-center-c0'>
<div class='nf-center'>
<div>T. T. Lamare, 2, Oxford Arms Passage.</div>
<div>Paternoster Row</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class='pbb'>
<hr class='pb c005' />
</div>
<div class='figcenter id002'>
<img src='images/frontis.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' />
<div class='ic002'>
<p>The Ape and the Goat</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class='pbb'>
<hr class='pb c005' />
</div>
<div class='figcenter id003'>
<img src='images/title.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' />
</div>
<div class='pbb'>
<hr class='pb c005' />
</div>
<div class='blackletter'>
<div class='chapter'>
<h2 class='c006'><span class='xlarge'>Preface.</span></h2>
</div>
</div>
<hr class='c007' />
<p class='drop-capa0_3_0_65 c008'>THE following Lecture, the first I believe on the
specific subject, met with a warm reception from a
numerous and good-humoured auditory; and received long
and flattering notices from the local papers, “the Ipswich
Journal,” and “the Suffolk Chronicle.” My enterprising
and liberal publisher, has thought it worthy of more extended
circulation. May the public think with him, and
take it off his hands as freely as he has taken it off mine!</p>
<p class='c009'>I have modified the passages which referred to the
illustrations; the greater portion of which it would, independently
of expense, have been impossible to give with
any effect on a small scale. Mr. F. B. Russel, (to whom
with his worthy brother artist, Mr. Thomas Smyth, I was
indebted for the original design,) has, with a kindness I
can better appreciate than acknowledge, anastaticized the
humorous drawing of the ape and the goat, (page 21,)
with which their joint talents enriched my Lecture. Mr.
Russel has also very skilfully introduced into the title
page, reduced copies of the three view’s of the Greek head
of Jupiter, referred to at page 14.</p>
<p class='c009'>Since its delivery, many notes have been added to the
Lecture, which it is hoped will afford both amusement and
information. It now only remains for me to make my bow,
wish my “<i>fratres barbati</i>,” long life to their Beards, and
shout</p>
<div class='blackletter'>
<div class='nf-center-c0'>
<div class='nf-center c005'>
<div>Vivat Regina!</div>
<div class='c000'>Floreat Barba!</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class='figcenter id004'>
<img src='images/i012.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' />
</div>
<div class='pbb'>
<hr class='pb c005' />
</div>
<div class='nf-center-c0'>
<div class='nf-center c005'>
<div><span class='xxlarge'>The Philosophy of Beards.</span></div>
</div>
</div>
<hr class='c010' />
<div class='chapter'>
<h2 class='c006'>INTRODUCTION.</h2>
</div>
<div class='c011'>
<img class='drop-capi' src='images/i001.jpg' width='50' height='50' alt='' />
</div><p class='drop-capi1_1'>
OUR most universal and most imaginative Poet,
whose single lines are often abstracts and epitomes
of poems, makes Hamlet exclaim—“What a piece of work
is man! How noble in reason! how infinite in faculties!
in form and moving, how express and admirable! in
action, how like an angel! in apprehension, how like a
God! the beauty of the world! the paragon of animals!”
And yet this same glorious creature, thus worthily praised,
is, with singular contradiction, so forgetful of his higher attributes,
that he can despise his reason! ignore his infinite
faculties! deliberately deface that form so express and
admirable! descend to actions that smack rather of the
demon than the angel! Drown his godlike apprehension
in drink! Shave off his majestic beauty! and become,
instead of the paragon—the parody of animals!</p>
<p class='c009'>O Fashion! most mighty, but most capricious of goddesses!
what strange vagaries playest thou with the sons
and daughters of men! What is there so lovely, that thou
canst not, with a word, transform into an object of disgust
and abhorrence? What so ugly and repulsive, but thou
hast the art to exalt it into a golden image for thy slaves
to worship, on pain of the fiery furnace of ridicule? Could
a collection be made of the forms and figures, modes and
mummeries, which thou hast imposed on thy ofttimes too
willing votaries, it would task the most vivid imagination,
the most fantastic stretch of fancy, to furnish a description
of the incongruous contents!</p>
<p class='c009'>Perhaps no human feature has been more the subject of
Fashion’s changeable humours than the <span class='sc'>Beard</span>, of which it
is purposed to night to render some account, in the hope
of being able to prove that in no instance has she been
guilty of more deliberate offences against nature and reason!
With this object in view, the structure, intention,
and uses of the Beard will be examined, and its artistic
relations indicated; its history will next be traced; and a
reply will then be briefly given to some objections against
wearing the Beard, not embraced in the preceding matter.</p>
<div class='figcenter id004'>
<img src='images/i002.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' />
</div>
<div class='pbb'>
<hr class='pb c005' />
</div>
<div class='chapter'>
<h2 class='c006'>I. PHYSIOLOGY.</h2>
</div>
<hr class='c007' />
<div class='c011'>
<img class='drop-capi' src='images/i003.jpg' width='50' height='50' alt='' />
</div><p class='drop-capi1_1'>
A QUAINT old Latin author asks, “What is a Beard?
Hair? and what is Hair? a Beard?” Perhaps a
Beard may be defined more clearly by stating, that in its
full extent it comprehends all hair visible on the countenance
below the eyes, naturally growing down the sides of
the face, crossing the cheeks by an inverted arch, fringing
the upper and lower lips, covering the chin above and below,
and hanging down in front of the neck and throat:—moustaches
and whiskers being merely parts of a general
whole. The hair of the head differs from that of the
Beard. In an enlarged microscopical view, the former is
seen to resemble a flattened cylinder, tapering off towards
the extremity. It has a rough outer bark, and a finer
inner coat; and contains, like a plant, its central pith, consisting
of oil and coloring matters. At the lower part it is
bulbous, and the pith vessels rest on a large vesicle. The
bulb is enclosed in a fold of the skin, and imbedded in the
sebaceous glands. The root is usually inserted obliquely
to the surface. Avoiding further detail, let me at once
direct your attention to the circumstance, that whereas
the hair of the head is only furnished with one pith tube,
that of the Beard, is provided with two.<a id='r1' /><a href='#f1' class='c012'><sup>[1]</sup></a> Is not this a
striking fact to commence with? and does it not at once
suggest that this extra provision must have a special purpose?
It has, as we shall presently see; and only now
add, that the hairs of the Beard are more deeply inserted
and more durable; flatter, and hence more disposed to curl.</p>
<p class='c009'>As the Beard makes its appearance simultaneously with
one of the most important natural changes in man’s constitution,
it has in all ages been regarded as the ensign
of manliness. All the leading races of men, whether of
warm or cold climates, who have stamped their character
on history—Egyptians, Indians, Jews, Assyrians, Babylonians,
Persians, Arabs, Greeks, Romans, Celts, Turks,
Scandinavians, Sclaves—were furnished with an abundant
growth of this natural covering. Their enterprizes were
accordingly distinguished by a corresponding vigour and
daring. The fact, too, is indisputable, that their hardiest
efforts were cotemporaneous with the existence of their
Beards; and a closer investigation would show that the
rise and fall of this natural feature has had more influence
on the progress and decline of nations, than has hitherto
been suspected. Though there are <i>individual</i> exceptions,
the absence of Beard is usually a sign of physical and
moral weakness; and in degenerate tribes wholly without,
or very deficient, there is a conscious want of manly
dignity, and contentedness with a low physical, moral,
and intellectual condition. Such tribes have to be sought
for by the physiologist and ethnologist; the <i>historian</i> is
never called upon to do honor to their deeds. Nor is it
without significance that the effeminate Chinese have
signalized their present attempt to become once more free
men, instead of tartar tools—by a formal resolve to have
done with pigtails, and let their hair take its natural course
over head and chin.<a id='r2' /><a href='#f2' class='c012'><sup>[2]</sup></a></p>
<p class='c009'>But the hair does not merely act as an external sign;
it has, or it would not be there, its own proper and distinct
functions to perform. The most important of these is the
protection of some of the most susceptible portions of
our frame from cold and moisture—those fruitful sources
of painful, and often fatal, disease. And what more
admirable contrivance could be thought of for this purpose
than a free and graceful veil of hair—a substance possessing
the important properties of power to repel moisture,
and to serve as a non-conductor of heat and electricity.</p>
<p class='c009'>Let me now show you what lies underneath the surface
naturally covered by the Beard. We have first that
ganglion or knot, the seat of the exquisitely painful affection
tic doloureux. From it you will perceive white threads of
nerves radiating to the jaws precisely in the line protected
by the Beard. As you contemplate it, you can hardly
fail to be struck with the fact, that in shaving may sometimes
originate that local paralysis which disfigures the
corners of the mouth. Next we have the nerves of the
teeth, which all know to be so affected by changes of
temperature.</p>
<p class='c009'>Glance now, if you please, at those glands which secrete
and elaborate the lymph which is to form part of the circulating
fluid, and in which scrofula often has its origin,
and some say its name. They are peculiarly liable to be
affected by cold and moisture, presenting then those well-known
unsightly swellings about the neck: they therefore
receive an extra protection, the hair usually growing much
more thickly on the parts where they are met with than
elsewhere.</p>
<p class='c009'>There are another set of glands, the sebaceous, which
are thickly concentrated on the chin. Now shaving is the
cause that the hairs on this part are liable to a peculiar
and very irritating disease, which imparts a kind of foretaste
of purgatory to many unfortunate victims of that
unnatural practice. Those with strong beards most righteously
suffer the most; for the more efficient the natural
protection is, the greater is also the folly of its removal.</p>
<p class='c009'>Lastly, there are the tonsils, and the glands of the
throat and larynx. Few require to be told how common
at present are acute and chronic affections of these parts.</p>
<p class='c009'>That the Beard was intended as a protection to the
whole of them, any one may satisfy himself by wearing it
and then shaving it off in cold or damp weather. If not
inclined to try this experiment, and mind I do not recommend
it, perhaps the following evidence will be sufficiently
convincing. Firstly, the historical fact that the Russian
soldiers, when compelled to shave by Peter the Great,
suffered most severely. Secondly, the medical testimony
extracted from the Professional Dictionary of Dr. Copeland,
one of the first Physicians of the day, where it is stated,
“Persons in the habit of wearing long Beards, have often
been affected with rheumatic pains in the face, or with
sore throat on shaving them off. In several cases of
chronic sore throat, wearing the Beard under the chin, or
upon the throat, has prevented a return of the complaint.”
Thirdly, the fact that several persons in this town (Ipswich)
have been so cured. And lastly, this brief but important
testimony of the men of the Scottish Central
Railway, dated Perth, 24th August, 1853.</p>
<p class='c013'>“We, the servants of the Scottish Central Railway, beg
to inform you, that having last summer seen a circular
recommending the men employed upon railways to cultivate
the growth of their Beards, as the best protection
against the inclemency of the weather, have been induced
to follow this advice; and the benefit we have derived
from it, induces us to recommend it to the general adoption
of our brothers in similar circumstances throughout
the kingdom. We can assure them, from our own experience,
that they will by this means be saved from the bad
colds and sore throats of such frequent occurrence without
this natural protection.”</p>
<div class='c014'>Signed by 5 Guards, 1 Inspector of Police,</div>
<div class='c014'>2 Engine Men, and 1 Fireman.</div>
<p class='c015'>Let us next see, for it is a highly interesting point in a
consumption-breeding climate like ours, where thousands
of victims annually die, <i>how</i> the entrances to the air passages
and lungs are protected by the upper part of the
beard—the moustache. We draw air in commonly
through the nose, and breathe it out through the mouth:
though occasionally the two passages exchange functions.
In a section of the nose, the interior of the nostril is seen
to communicate, by a slightly curved passage, with the
back entrance to the mouth and throat. Now as the
incoming air must follow the direction of the draught, you
will readily perceive that any air entering by the nostrils
must pass through or over the hair of the moustache, and
be warmed in the passage: and when the air makes its
way by the mouth, it must pass under the moustache and
be warmed, like that under the eaves of a thatched roof.</p>
<p class='c009'>The moustache, however, not merely warms the inspired
air, but filters it from superfluous moisture, dirt, dust, and
smoke; and soon we trust it will be deemed as rational to
deprive the upper lip of its protecting fringe, as to shave
the eyebrows or pluck out the eyelashes.<a id='r3' /><a href='#f3' class='c012'><sup>[3]</sup></a></p>
<p class='c009'>Those to whom the extent of preventible disease among
our artizans—disease arising solely from their employments
is unknown, I must refer to Mr. Thackrah’s book
on that specific subject. Scientific ingenuity had long
attempted to devise contrivances to relieve the men from
some of these diseases; but the schemes were found too
cumbrous, or otherwise impracticable. As so often happens,
what <i>men</i> were profoundly searching for, <i>nature</i> had
placed directly under their noses. Mr. Chadwick, to whom
the public are indebted for much valuable information on
questions connected with the public health, and Dr.
Alison, of Glasgow, one of whom had seen the particles
of iron settling on and staining the Beards of foreign
smiths; and the other had noticed the dusty Beards of
foreign masons when at work, were led to the conclusion,
independently of each other, that the iron and stone dust
were much better deposited on the Beard (whence they
could be washed), than in the lungs, where they would be
sure to cause disease. The lungs of a mason for instance
are preserved in Edinburgh, which are one concrete mass
of stone. These gentlemen published their convictions;
and through the beneficial agency of the press, that information,
aided by papers in the “Builder,” and in
“Dickens’s Household Words,” soon found its way to our
artizans, many of whom have tried the experiment, and
borne testimony to its satisfactory results. At this
juncture, let us also hope that the reiterated opinions of
eminent Army Surgeons will at length be listened to, and
the British Soldier be freed from the apoplectic leathern
stock, and allowed to wear that protection which nature
endowed him with. To the latter the most rigid economist
cannot object, since it will add nothing to the estimates,
while it will enable the soldier to offer, if not a
bolder, at least a more formidable front, to the foe, and
save him from many of the hazards of the march in which
more die than on the field of battle!</p>
<p class='c009'>Though the subject has as yet received too little scientific
attention, there can be no doubt that the hair generally
has a further important function to perform in regulating
the electricity which is so intimately connected with the
condition of the nerves.</p>
<p class='c009'>I have reserved to the last the curious fact, which in
itself is perfectly conclusive as to the protecting office of
the Beard, and explains why its hair has additional provision
for its nourishment; and this fact is, that while the
hair of the head usually falls off with the approach of age,
that of the Beard, on the contrary, continues to <i>grow</i> and
<i>thicken</i> to the latest period of life. He must be indeed insensible
to all evidence of design, who does not acknowledge
in this a wise and beneficent provision, especially
when he connects with it the other well-known fact, that
the skull becomes denser, and the brain less sensitive, while
the parts shielded by the Beard are more susceptible than
ever, and have less vitality to contend with prejudicial
influences.</p>
<p class='c009'>Before proceeding further it may be as well briefly to
answer the question, why, if Beards be so necessary for
men, women have no provision of the kind? The reason I
take to be this, that they are women, and were consequently
never intended to be exposed to the hardships and difficulties
men are called upon to undergo. Woman was made
a help meet for man, and it was designed that man should
in return, protect her to the utmost of his power from those
external circumstances which it is his duty boldly to encounter.
Her hair grows naturally longer, and in the
savage state she is accustomed to let it fall over the neck
and shoulders. The ancient Athenian and Lombard
women are even said to have accompanied their husbands
to the battle-field with their hair so arranged as to imitate
the Beard. In more civilized society, various contrivances
are resorted to by the gentler sex for protection,
which would be utterly unsuitable to the sterner. In saying
this I do not include the present absurd bonnet, which
seems purposely contrived to expose rather than shield the
fair, and to excite our pity and cause us to tremble while
we cannot but admire!</p>
<p class='c009'>Two curious exceptional cases of bearded women must
not be passed over; one, that of a female soldier in the
army of Charles XII, who was taken at the battle of Pultowa,
where she had fought with a courage worthy of her
Beard: the other, that of Margaret of Parma, the celebrated
Regent of the Netherlands, who conceived that her
Beard imparted such dignity to her appearance, that she
would never allow a hair of it to be touched.</p>
<div class='figcenter id004'>
<img src='images/i012.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' />
</div>
<div class='pbb'>
<hr class='pb c005' />
</div>
<div class='chapter'>
<h2 class='c006'>II. ARTISTIC DIVISION.</h2>
</div>
<div class='c011'>
<img class='drop-capi' src='images/i013.jpg' width='50' height='50' alt='' />
</div><p class='drop-capi1_1'>
NOT only was the Beard intended to serve the important
purposes just described; but, combining
beauty with utility, to impart manly grace and free finish
to the male face. To its picturesqueness Poets and Painters,
the most competent judges, have borne universal testimony.
It is indeed impossible to view a series of bearded
portraits, however indifferently executed, without feeling
that they possess dignity, gravity, freedom, vigour, and
completeness; while in looking on a row of razored faces,
however illustrious the originals, or skilful the artists, a
sense of artificial conventional bareness is experienced.</p>
<p class='c009'>Addison gives vent to the same notion, when he makes
Sir Roger de Coverley point to a venerable bust in Westminster
Abbey, and ask “whether our forefathers did not
look much wiser in their Beards, than we without them?”
and say, “for my part, when I am in my gallery in the
country, and see my ancestors, who many of them died
before they were of my age, I cannot forbear regarding
them as so many old Patriarchs, and at the same time
looking upon myself as an idle smock-faced young fellow.
I love to see your Abrahams, your Isaacs, and your Jacobs,
as we have them in the old pieces of tapestry, with Beards
below their girdles that cover half the hangings.” The
knight added, “if I would recommend Beards in one of
my papers, and endeavour to restore human faces to their
ancient dignity, upon a month’s warning he would undertake
to lead up the fashion himself in a pair of whiskers.”
In reference to this last allusion it may be as well to state,
that the word whisker is frequently used by earlier authors
to denote the moustache, and that in Addison’s time, a mass
of false hair was worn, and the head and face close shaven.</p>
<p class='c009'>To shew that it is the Beard alone that causes the sensation
we have alluded to, look at two drawings on exactly
the same original outline, of a Greek head of Jupiter, the
one with, the other without the Beard! What say you?
Is not the experiment a sort of “occular demonstration”
in favor of nature, and a justification of art and artists?
See how the forehead of the bearded one rises like a well-supported
dome—what depth the eyes acquire—how firm
the features become—how the muscular angularity is modified—into
what free flowing lines the lower part of the oval
is resolved, and what gravity the increased length given to
the face imparts.</p>
<p class='c009'>As amusing and instructive pendants, take two drawings
of the head of a lion, one with and the other without the
mane. You will see how much of the majesty of the king
of the woods, as well as that of the lord of the earth,
dwells in this free flowing appendage. By comparing
these drawings with those of Jupiter, you will detect, I
think, in the head of the lion whence the Greek sculptor
drew his ideal of this noble type of godlike humanity.</p>
<p class='c009'>Since this idea struck me, Mr. John Marshall, in a
lecture at the Government School of Practical Art, has
remarked, “that nature leaves nothing but what is beautiful
uncovered, and that the masculine chin is seldom sightly,
because it was <i>designed to be covered</i>, while the chins of
women are generally beautiful.” This view he supported
by instancing, “that the bear, the rabbit, the cat, and the
bird, are hideous to look upon when deprived of their
hairy and feathery decorations: but the horse, the greyhound,
and other animals so sparingly covered that the
shape remains unaltered by the fur, are beautiful even in
their naked forms.” This argument, it seems to me,
applies with greater force to the various ages of man. In
the babe, the chin is exceedingly soft, and its curve blends
into those of the face and neck: in the boy it still retains
a feminine gentleness of line, but as he advances to the
youth, the bones grow more and more prominent, and the
future character begins to stamp itself upon the form: at
the approach of manhood, the lines combining with those
of the mouth become more harsh, angular, and decided;
in middle age, various ugly markings establish themselves
about both, which in age are rendered not only deeper,
but increased in number by the loss of the teeth and the
falling in of the lips, which of course distorts all the
muscles connected with the mouth. Such, however, is the
force of prejudice founded on custom, that people who
sink themselves to the ears in deep shirt collars, and to
the chin in starched cravat and stiffened stock, muffle
themselves in comforters till their necks are as big as their
waists; nay do not demur some of them to be seen in
that abomination of ugliness—that huge black patch of
deformity—a respirator, have still sufficient face left to
tell us that the expression of the countenance would be
injured by restoring the Beard!</p>
<p class='c009'>A word, therefore, on the expression of Bearded faces.
The works of the Greeks,<a id='r4' /><a href='#f4' class='c012'><sup>[4]</sup></a> the paintings of the old
Masters, but above all the productions of the pencil of
Raphael, justly styled “the Painter of Expression,” is a
sufficient general answer to this ill-considered charge. It
would indeed be strange if He who made the male face,
and fixed the laws of every feature—clothing it with hair,
as with a garment, should in this last particular have made
an elaborate provision to mar the excellency of His own
work! Nothing indeed but the long effeminizing of our
faces could have given rise to the present shaven ideal—to
the forgetfulness of the true standard of masculine
beauty of expression, which is naturally as antipodal as the
magnetic north and south poles, to that of female loveliness,
where delicacy of line, blushing changeable colour,
and eyes that win by seeming not to wish it, are charms
we all feel, and at the same time understand how inappropriate
they are when applied to the opposite sex; where
the bold enterprizing brow—the deep penetrating eye—the
daring, sagacious nose, and the fleshy but firm mouth,
well supported on the decided projecting chin, proclaim a
being who has an appointed path to tread, and hard rough
work to do, in this world of difficulties and ceaseless transition.</p>
<p class='c009'>So much for the general charge; if we examine the
separate features, there can be no question that the upper
part of the face—the most godlike portion—where the
mind sits enthroned, gains in expression by the addition
of and contrast with the Beard; the nose also is thrown
into higher relief, while the eyes acquire both depth and
brilliancy. The mouth, which is especially the seat of the
affections, its surrounding muscles rendering it the reflex
of every passing emotion, owes its general expression to
the line between the lips—the key to family likeness; and
this line is more sharply defined by the shadow cast by the
moustache, from which the teeth also acquire additional
whiteness, and the lips a brighter red. Neither the mouth
nor chin are, as we have said, unsightly in early life, but at
a later period the case is otherwise. There is scarcely indeed
a more <i>naturally</i> disgusting object than a beardless
old man (compared by the Turks to a “plucked pigeon,”)
with all the deep-ploughed lines of effete passions, grasping
avarice, disappointed ambition, the pinchings of
poverty, the swollen lines of self-indulgence, and the distortions
of disease and decay! Now the Beard, which, as
the Romans phrased it, “buds” on the face of youth in a
soft downiness in harmony with immature manliness, and
lengthens and thickens with the progress of life, keeps
gradually covering, varying, and beautifying, as the
“mantling ivy” the rugged oak, or the antique tower, and
by playing with its light free forms over the harsher characteristics,
imparts new graces even to decay, by heightening
all that is still pleasing, veiling all that is repulsive.</p>
<p class='c009'>The colour of the Beard is usually warmer than that of
the hair of the head, and reflection soon suggests the
reason. The latter comes into contact chiefly with the
forehead, which has little colour; but the Beard grows out
of the face where there is always more or less. Now
nature makes use of the colours of the face in painting
the Beard—a reason by the bye for not attempting to alter
the original hue, and carries off her warm and cold colours
by that means. Never shall I forget the circumstance of
a gentleman with high colour, light brown hair, full whiskers
of a warm brown, deepening into a warm black, and
good looking, though his features, especially the nose, were
not regular—taking a whim into his head to shave off his
whiskers. Deprived of this fringe, the colour of his cheeks
looked spotty, his nose forlorn and wretched, and his whole
face like a house on a hill-top exposed to the north east,
from which the sheltering plantations had been ruthlessly
removed.</p>
<p class='c009'>The following singular fact in connection with the colour
of the Beard, I learnt in chance conversation with a hairdresser.
Observing that persons like him with high complexion
and dark hair, had usually a purple black beard:
he said, “that’s true, sir,” and told me he had “found in
his own Beard, and in those of his customers, distinct red
hairs intermingled with the black,” just as it is stated that
in the grey fur of animals there are distinct rings of white
and black hairs. This purplish bloom of a black Beard is
much admired by the Persians; and curiously enough
they produce the effect by a red dye of henna paste, followed
by a preparation of indigo.</p>
<p class='c009'>There is one other point connected with colour which
ought not to be omitted. All artists know the value of
white in clearing up colours. Now let any one look at an
old face surrounded by white hair, whether in man or
woman, and he will perceive a harmonizing beauty in it,
that no artificial imitation of more youthful colours can
possibly impart. In this, as in other cases, the natural is
the most becoming.</p>
<p class='c009'>Permit me to conclude this section of my lecture by
reminding all who wish to let their Beards grow, that there
is a law above fashion, and that each individual face is
endowed with its individual Beard, the form and colour of
which is determined by similar laws to those which regulate
the tint of the skin, the form and colour of the hair
of the head, eyebrows, and eyelashes; and therefore the
most becoming, even if ugly in itself, to their respective
physiognomies. What suits a square face, will not suit
an oval, and a high forehead demands a different Beard to
a low one. Leave the matter therefore to nature, and in
due season the fitting form and colour will manifest themselves.
And here parties who have never shaved have this
great advantage over those who have yielded to the unnatural
custom, that hair will only be visible, even when
present, in its proper place, be better in character and
colour, and more graceful in its form.</p>
<p class='c009'>And now, ladies and gentlemen, as all history we are
told grew out of fable, allow me, as a sort of intermezzo,
to preface my history by “a Fable for the Times.”</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>An Ape, one day, said to a Goat,</div>
<div class='line'>“Why wear that nasty ugly Beard?</div>
<div class='line'>I’ll shave you for a quarter groat</div>
<div class='line'>Cleaner than Sheep was ever shear’d.”</div>
</div>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>“Thank you, Sir Ape!” the Goat replied,</div>
<div class='line'>“I’ll think of it.” To court he ran,</div>
<div class='line'>Where he the foplings busy spied</div>
<div class='line'>Effacing ev’ry mark of man:</div>
</div>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>Thinking to win the softer sex</div>
<div class='line'>By making themselves <i>softer</i> still.</div>
<div class='line'>“Ah!” says our Goat, “ah! ah! I’feggs,</div>
<div class='line'>I’ll be in fashion, that I will!”</div>
</div>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>He seats himself, the Ape’s not slow,</div>
<div class='line'>But tucks the cloth in, and then lathers;</div>
<div class='line'>When lo! stalk’d by a goodly row,</div>
<div class='line'>A solemn train of old Church Fathers!</div>
</div>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>With these came Doctors of each Art,</div>
<div class='line'>And each one pointed to his Beard!</div>
<div class='line'>Our Goat sprang up, with sudden start,</div>
<div class='line'>Like one whom conscience makes afeard.</div>
</div>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>“O Ape! this man’s a creature brave,</div>
<div class='line'>To whom we all like slaves submit;</div>
<div class='line'>Bearded to-day—t’morrow he’ll shave,</div>
<div class='line'>Then where’s the good of his boasted wit!</div>
</div>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>“There’s your apron! take your basin!</div>
<div class='line'>’Tis best to abide by nature’s rule:</div>
<div class='line'>His Beard no Goat will see disgrace in,</div>
<div class='line'>Whom nature did not make a fool!”</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class='nf-center-c0'>
<div class='nf-center c000'>
<div>MORAL.</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>Let your Beards grow in their natural shapes,</div>
<div class='line'>God made you all <i>Men</i>, don’t make yourselves <i>Apes</i>!</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class='figcenter id004'>
<img src='images/i021.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' />
</div>
<div class='pbb'>
<hr class='pb c005' />
</div>
<div class='chapter'>
<h2 class='c006'>III. HISTORICAL SURVEY.</h2>
</div>
<hr class='c007' />
<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Egyptians.</span></h3>
<div class='c011'>
<img class='drop-capi' src='images/i022.jpg' width='50' height='50' alt='' />
</div><p class='drop-capi1_1'>
HAVING seen that the Beard is a natural feature of
the male face, and that the Creator intended it for
distinction, protection, and ornament, let us turn lightly
over the pages of history and examine the estimation in
which it has been held at various times among the leading
people, ancient and modern.</p>
<p class='c009'>The first nation which suggests itself is the Egyptian,
and very peculiar forms of Beard were assigned by them
on their monuments to their gods, kings, and common
people. That of the gods is curled and the length of the
oval of the face: that of the kings is shaped like an Egyptian
doorway, and three fourths of the same standard: of
which the people’s is one fourth and nearly square. This
appendage seems from the appearance of an attaching
band to have been frequently artificial, and probably the
Egyptians, who, as you may see by the wig in the British
Museum, wore false hair, also wore false Beards. Some
have supposed the forms alluded to, to be mere symbols of
the male sex on the monuments; but this notion is disproved
by male persons being represented without them.
That they were occasionally so used, however, is clear from
the kingly Beard on that symbol of royalty the Sphynx.</p>
<p class='c009'>The priests of this ancient nation are stated to have
removed every hair from the body thrice a week; and they
ultimately compelled the people to shave both their heads
and faces; and all slaves and servants, though foreigners,
were obliged to do the same. That this arose from some
superstitious notion of cleanliness, is confirmed by the
remark of Herodotus, “that no Egyptian of either sex,
would on any account kiss the lips of a bearded Greek, or
make use of his knife, spit, or cauldron, or taste the meat
of an animal which had been slaughtered by his hand.”</p>
<p class='c009'>In times of mourning, however, the Egyptians allowed
the hair of the head and Beard to grow in token of grief.</p>
<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Jews.</span></h3>
<p class='c015'>Such was the practice of the Egyptians; and it is
highly important to take the Jews next, because at the
period of our first knowledge of them as a people, they
appear in bondage to the former nation; and it is now
generally believed that most of the usages established by
Moses had more or less reference to Egyptian customs,
from which he was desirous of weaning them. As might
be expected from the inspired Lawgiver, whose sublime
books start with the grand assertion, that man was made
“in the express image of God,” any attempt to alter
the natural features of the “human face divine,” was denounced
and emphatically interdicted. Twice is the commandment
issued—first to the whole people, “thou shalt
not mar the corners of thy Beard,” in other words, thou shalt
not alter the form thereof, which I thy God have appointed!
Then to the Priests, with the addition, that they
should not make baldness upon their heads. It is of the
utmost consequence to recall the superstitious practice of
the Egyptian Priests, and to remember that Moses issued
this command to the Aaronites, fresh from Egypt, because
it most convincingly shews that the practice of shaving,
even when resorted to with the view of pleasing the Deity,
by an extreme degree of external purity, in approaching
His mysterious presence, was directly and most absolutely
forbidden. It is as if God had said, “What art thou, O
man! who thinkest in thy vain imagination that I, thy
Creator, knew not how to fashion thee! and blasphemously
supposest that thou canst please me, by superstitiously
sacrificing what I, in my Almighty wisdom, had endowed
thee with, for protection and ornament!” And, as if to
mark the distinction more strongly, Moses enjoined in the
strictest manner every ordinary and natural method of
purifying the person.</p>
<p class='c009'>It cannot but be instructive to note, that thus on the very
threshold of history, we have two customs so opposite
brought into contrast—the one strongly condemned, the
other most awfully sanctioned. And it is the more necessary
to mark this, because there are many religious persons
who have by custom acquired the Egyptian notion, and
forgotten its emphatic condemnation. There are many
who, though told that certain diseases to which the more
active of the clergy are specially liable, might be prevented
and may be cured, by simply wearing the Beard, will still
insist upon their ministers paying the penalty invariably
attaching to a violation of God’s laws, because their prejudices
lead them to fancy a smooth face rather than a
manly one.</p>
<p class='c009'>As further confirmation of our idea that the object of
this law of Moses was to prevent any of the natural features
from being materially altered—he objected not to
trimming the Beard, which was a common Jewish practice—is
to be found in the first verse of the 14th chapter of
Deuteronomy, where the people are commanded not to
shave their eyebrows; which was a customary mark of grief
among some bearded nations. The Jews too, unlike the
Persians and others, instead of shaving the Beard in time
of mourning—though in the violence of oriental grief they
sometimes plucked it—usually left it merely untrimmed or
veiled, till the days of mourning were passed.</p>
<p class='c009'>You all remember the fearful vengeance David took
when his ambassadors were disgraced by shaving their
Beards.</p>
<p class='c009'>The Beard continued to be worn in all its glory by these
chosen people, and it would be impossible for us to imagine
to ourselves the appearance of any of their patriarchs,
judges, priests, prophets, or mature kings—or of the
sublime founder of our religion—or of the chosen twelve—save
the youthful John, without this venerable and
venerated feature. What painter would dare such an
offence to our most sacred associations, as to represent any
of these with the smirking smoothness of razored neatness!</p>
<p class='c009'>That in Mahomet’s time, the Jews still held to their
primitive custom, is evident from that lawgiver’s command
to his followers to clip the whiskers and Beard,
in order to distinguish themselves from the Jews. Indeed
the latter, in every way most remarkable people, have clung
to the prescribed custom with all the force of religious feeling
and firm conviction. And however in modern times
some of the laity, impelled by a desire to mix unobserved
amongst the populations of Western Europe, may have
sacrificed conviction to convenience, their Rabbies have
remained invariably consistent in their testimony to truth
and nature; and one of the most enduring impressions of
my youth is the remembrance of the Chief Rabbi Herschel
treading the streets of London, like the last of the prophets,
in dark robes, with long pale face and flowing
Beard,</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>And eyes, whose deep mysterious glow,</div>
<div class='line'>Disdainful of each fleeting show,</div>
<div class='line'>Dwelt in the old and sacred past,</div>
<div class='line'>Or Seer-like scann’d the future, vast.</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Assyrians and Babylonians.</span></h3>
<p class='c015'>The Assyrians and Babylonians, as we know from the
researches and discoveries of Layard and others, wore
highly ornamental Beards, in which they were followed by
the ancient Persians, and the bands appearing on them
were of gold.</p>
<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Persians, Arabs, and Turks.</span></h3>
<p class='c015'>The ancient Arabs, like their kindred, the Jews, were
Bearded, and like them also they have preserved their
Beards intact, though their faith has more than once
changed. From Mahomet’s time we may class them for
our purpose with the Turks and Persians, since all have
manifested the same respect for the Beard, looking upon
it as the perfection and completion of man’s countenance
and the type of freedom; and shaving as a mark of debasement
and slavery.<a id='r5' /><a href='#f5' class='c012'><sup>[5]</sup></a> Mahomet, who sanctioned dyeing
the Beard, preferred that it should be of a cane colour,
which was the hue assigned by tradition to Abraham’s.
One of the points of Persian heresy is preferring a black
Beard, and a particular cut; and about this hair-splitting
difference, they once waged a cruel war with the Uzbec
Tartars, in which they were accustomed to lay their enemies’
Beards as trophies at the feet of the Shah.</p>
<p class='c009'>As instances of respect paid to the Beard, we may cite
the common Mahomedan oath “by the Beard of the Prophet!”
and the form of supplication, “by your Beard, or
the life of your Beard.” The Turks will point to theirs
and say, “do you think this venerable Beard could lie?”
And a man’s testimony used to be so much measured by
his Beard, that in hiring a witness, length of this appendage
was an indispensable qualification. To touch another’s
Beard, unless to kiss it respectfully, is considered
by all these people a great insult. When two friends meet,
to kiss it, sometimes on both sides, answers to our shake
of the hand—how are you? and “may God preserve your
Beard!” is a form of invoking a blessing on a friend. In
the bosoms of their families the Beard is treated as an
object of reverential fondness—wife and children kissing
it with the most tender and respectful affection. To express
high value for a thing, they say, “it is worth more
than one’s Beard.”<a id='r6' /><a href='#f6' class='c012'><sup>[6]</sup></a></p>
<p class='c009'>“Shame on your Beard!” is a term of reproach, and
“I spit on your Beard!” an expression of the most profound
contempt. When the Shah of Persia, in 1826, was
speaking to our Ambassador, (Sir J. Malcolm,) concerning
the Russians, to shew how low he esteemed them, he
exclaimed, “I spit on their Beards!”<a id='r7' /><a href='#f7' class='c012'><sup>[7]</sup></a></p>
<p class='c009'>To cut off the Beard is considered a deep disgrace and
degradation. The noted Wahahee Chief Saoud was accustomed
to shave the Beard as a punishment for the
gravest offences. He had long wished to purchase the
mare of a Sheikh of the Shahmanny tribe, but all his
offers were rejected. A Sheikh of the Kahtans, however,
having been sentenced to lose his hairy honors, when the
barber appeared, exclaimed, “O Saoud, take the mare of
the Shahmanny as a ransom for my Beard!” The offer
was accepted, and a bargain struck with the owner of the
mare for 2,500 dollars, which he declared he would not
have taken, nor any other sum, had it not been to save
the Beard of a noble Kahtan.</p>
<p class='c009'>Even when disease or accident renders necessary the
removal of the whole or part of the Beard, it is only at
the last extremity that an Arab will yield; and then he
lives secluded, or if obliged to go out, wears a thick black
veil, until his chin can reappear “with all its pristine
honours blushing thick upon it.”</p>
<p class='c009'>Almost every Mahomedan carries a comb with him for
the sole purpose of arranging his Beard: this is often
done, especially after prayers; when the devotee usually
remains sitting on his heels and industriously using the
comb. The hairs which fall are carefully collected, to be
either buried with the owner, or deposited previously in
his tomb, after having been first separately broken in order
to release the guardian angels.</p>
<p class='c009'>To perfume and fumigate the Beard with incense is a
common eastern custom.</p>
<p class='c009'>In mourning, the Persians shave themselves; and
Herodotus relates one instance when they also cropped the
manes and tails of their horses in honor of their leader
Mardonius.</p>
<p class='c009'>One wiseacre of a Sultan is said to have shaved his
Beard, saying “his councillors should never lead him by
it, as they had done his forefathers!” forgetting that he
had still left them the convenient handle of his nose—by
which, as you know, ladies and gentlemen, people have
been led from time immemorial. Let me hope, therefore,
no one will cite this as an historical precedent for shaving.</p>
<p class='c009'>He was fortunately succeeded by wiser men, and the
Sultan is yet distinguished by a goodly Beard:<a id='r8' /><a href='#f8' class='c012'><sup>[8]</sup></a> as is also
the Shah of Persia, and all the Arabs and their Chiefs.</p>
<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Greeks.</span></h3>
<p class='c015'>The ancient Greeks were world-famous for their Beards.
All Homer’s heroes are bearded, and Nestor the Sage is
described as stroking his as a graceful prelusion to an
oration. Saturn, Jupiter, Neptune, Pluto, Mars, Vulcan,
Mercury, are represented with Beards. Apollo is without,
as an emblem of perpetual youth. Hercules and the demigods
are also well furnished. And Æsculapius the God
of Health,—significant fact!—is most abundantly endowed.
The mother of Achilles, when supplicating Jupiter, touches
his Beard with one hand, with the other his knee.</p>
<p class='c009'>As might be supposed from their hardy characteristics,
the Spartans especially cherished the Beard. When one
Nicander was asked why? he replied, “because we esteem
it the ornament that preeminently distinguishes man.” It
being demanded of another why he wore so <i>long</i> a Beard?
his noble reply was, “Since it is grown white, it incessantly
reminds me not to dishonor my old age.”<a id='r9' /><a href='#f9' class='c012'><sup>[9]</sup></a> Plutarch,
after mentioning the bushy hair and Beard of the
Spartan commander Lysander, says, “that Lycurgus was of
opinion that abundance of hair and Beard made those who
were fair, more so, and those who were ugly, more terrible
to their enemies.” Regarding shaving as a mark of slavish
servitude, they compelled their chief magistrates to shave
their upper lips during their term of office, to remind
them that though administrators of the laws, they were
still subject to them.</p>
<p class='c009'>The Greeks in general continued to wear the Beard till
the decay of Athenian virtue brought that free state into
subjection to the Macedonian Conqueror, who, according
to Plutarch, ordered his soldiers to shave, lest their Beards
should afford a handle to their enemies. This must have
been when he was in one of his drunken fits, or he might
have had them trimmed like the old Greek warriors.<a id='r10' /><a href='#f10' class='c012'><sup>[10]</sup></a> Be
that as it may, Greek freedom and Greek Beards expired
together.</p>
<p class='c009'>Diogenes, cotemporary with Alexander, once asked a
smooth-chinned voluptuary whether he quarrelled with nature
for making him a man instead of a woman? And Phocion
rebuking one who courted the people and affected a long
Spartan Beard, said to him, “if thou needs must flatter,
why didst thou not clip thy Beard?”</p>
<p class='c009'>It is a curious fact for those who resolve civilization
into shaving, that the only parties in ancient Greece
who retained their Beards under all changes were the
Philosophers, or lovers of wisdom—they with whom all
that distinguished Greek intellect was a special study and
profession; who were in fact the most civilized portion of
the community.</p>
<p class='c009'>From the time of the Emperor Justinian the Greeks
resumed the Beard, which was worn by all the Greek
Emperors down to the last, the unfortunate Paleologus,
who died fighting bravely at the taking of Constantinople
by the Turks. It was by these Emperors regarded as an
ensign of royalty—an attribute of kingly majesty.</p>
<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Etruscans—Romans.</span></h3>
<p class='c015'>The Etruscans represented their gods with Beards, and
wore them themselves; as did the Romans. Every schoolboy
recollects the awe inspired to the invading Gauls when,
on entering the Senate-house, they saw the conscript
Fathers sitting calm and immovable as the gods, for which
the Barbarians at first view took them, till one bolder than
the rest plucked at the Beard of the noble Marcus Papirius,
who by indignantly raising his staff, unconsciously gave
the signal for the murder of himself, and his venerable
compatriots.</p>
<p class='c009'>During all the best ages of the Republic, while the old
Roman virtue retained something of its original vigour,
and before it had been sapped and undermined by the imported
vices and effeminate customs of conquered nations,
Rome’s statesmen, heroes, priests and people all wore, and
all reverenced, the virile glories of the Beard!</p>
<p class='c009'>It was not till the year of Rome 454, about three centuries
before our era, that one of those corrupt Prætors,
who usually returned laden with foreign gold, and pampered
with foreign luxury, imported a stock of Barbers
from Sicily; and that credulous gossip Pliny libels the
younger Scipio Africanus by stating—calumnious on dit!—“that
he was the first who shaved his whole Beard.” This
is just one of those instances where a foolish custom, like
a bad piece of wit, is sought to be fathered on some world-renowned
name.</p>
<p class='c009'>Long after the above date, the Beard was only partially
shaved or trimmed; and the same word (tondere) is
sometimes used to mean either. Of course when once the
fashion had set in, it was, as with us, considered
unbecoming to wear a Beard; and Marcus Livius on his return
from banishment, was compelled by the Censors to shave,
before appearing in the Senate.</p>
<p class='c009'>With the increasing growth of vice and effeminacy
among this once hardy race, the decreasing Beard kept
pace.<a id='r11' /><a href='#f11' class='c012'><sup>[11]</sup></a> Cæsar, the real founder of the empire, by whom
every kind of foppery and debauchery was indulged in as
a mask to deep schemes of ambition, of course shaved;<a id='r12' /><a href='#f12' class='c012'><sup>[12]</sup></a>
and having done so, shaving continued to be the imperial
fashion down to the time of Hadrian, (whose bold Roman
head I exhibited, as the first restorer of manly beauty.)
From his time most of the Emperors<a id='r13' /><a href='#f13' class='c012'><sup>[13]</sup></a> wore it till Constantine,
who shaved out of superstition. His father had a
noble Beard.</p>
<p class='c009'>Even after the custom of shaving was introduced, the
first appearance of the Beard was hailed with joy, and
usually about the time of assuming the toga; the “first
fruits” of hair were solemnly consecrated—relict of previous
respect—to some god, as in the case of Nero,<a id='r14' /><a href='#f14' class='c012'><sup>[14]</sup></a> who
presented his in a golden box, set with jewels, to the Capitoline
Jupiter.<a id='r15' /><a href='#f15' class='c012'><sup>[15]</sup></a></p>
<p class='c009'>Shaving in token of grief was the custom of the early
Romans; when, however, that which had been considered
a deprivation became a general fashion, the Beard was
allowed to grow in time of sorrow, to denote personal
neglect.</p>
<p class='c009'>The Roman Philosophers, like the Greek, cherished a
long Beard as the emblem of wisdom. The following
anecdote shews that it was sometimes a fallacious sign.
One of the Emperors being pestered by a man in a long
robe and Beard, asked him what he was. “Do you not
see that I am a philosopher?” was the reply. “The cloak
I see, and the Beard I see,” said the Emperor, “but the
philosopher, where is he?”</p>
<p class='c009'>I must not conclude this notice of Roman customs
without mentioning the instructive fact, that the slaves of
the early Romans were shaved as a mark of servitude, and
not allowed to wear the distinctive sign of a free man
until emancipated. At a later period the slaves, as the
most manly, wore the Beard, and only shaved when entitled
to be put on a level with their debased and vicious
masters!</p>
<div class='figcenter id004'>
<img src='images/i012.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' />
</div>
<div class='pbb'>
<hr class='pb c005' />
</div>
<div class='chapter'>
<h2 class='c006'>ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.</h2>
</div>
<div class='c011'>
<img class='drop-capi' src='images/i042.jpg' width='50' height='50' alt='' />
</div><p class='drop-capi1_2'>
A BRIEF glance at Ecclesiastical History will
furnish one or two interesting matters. Most of the
Fathers of the Church both wore and approved of the
Beard. Clement, of Alexandria, says, “nature adorned man
like the lion, with a Beard, as the index of strength and
empire.” Lactantius, Theodoret, St. Augustine, and St.
Cyprian, are all eloquent in praise of this natural feature:
about which many discussions were raised in the early
ages of the Church, when matters of discipline necessarily
engaged much of the attention of its leaders. To settle
these disputes, at the 4th Council of Carthage, held A.D.
252, canon 44, it was enacted “that a clergyman shall
<i>not cherish his hair nor shave his Beard</i>.” (Clericus nec
comam nutriat nec barbam radat.) And Bingham quotes
an early letter, in which it is said of one who from a layman
had become a clergyman, “his habit, gait, modesty,
countenance, and discourse, were all <i>religious</i>, and <i>agreeably
to these his hair was short and his Beard long</i>;”
shewing that in those early times St. Paul was better
understood than at a later date.</p>
<p class='c009'>Subsequently the Beard was alternately commended to
the clergy for its becoming gravity, or condemned from
the ascetic notion that pride was apt to lurk in a fine
Beard. In some of the monasteries lay members wore the
Beard, while those in orders were shaved, and the hairs,
remnant of an earlier superstition, devoutly consecrated to
God with special prayers and imposing ceremonies.</p>
<p class='c009'>One order of the Cistercians were specially allowed to
wear their Beards, and were hence called “fratres barbati”
or Bearded brethren.</p>
<p class='c009'>The military orders of the Church, as the Knights of
St. John and the Templars, were always full Bearded.</p>
<p class='c009'>To touch the Beard, was at one time a solemnity by
which a godfather acknowledged the child of his adoption.</p>
<p class='c009'>One of the fertile sources of dispute between the Roman
and Greek Churches has been this subject of wearing or
not wearing the Beard. The Greek Church, with a firm
faithfulness which does credit to its orthodoxy, has stood
manfully by the early Church decisions and refused to
admit any shaven saint into its calendar, heartily despising
the Romish Church for its weakness in this respect. On
the other hand, the Popes, to mark the distinction between
Eastern and Western christianity, early introduced statutes
“de radendis barbis,” or concerning shaving the Beard.
Here and there, however, a manly old fellow, like Pope
Julius II, who made Michael Angelo sculpture him with
a drawn sword in his hand, or a Cardinal, like Pole or
Allen, and many Bishops, managed to believe that faith
and nature might be reconciled by taking a comprehensive
and truly Catholic view of both.</p>
<p class='c009'>The leading English and German Reformers wore their
Beards; (if Luther confined himself to a moustache, it was
because his Monkish habit of shaving was too strong for
him,) and most of the Martyrs to the Protestant Faith were
burnt in their Beards.</p>
<div class='figcenter id004'>
<img src='images/i012.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' />
</div>
<div class='pbb'>
<hr class='pb c005' />
</div>
<div class='chapter'>
<h2 class='c006'>MODERN HISTORY.</h2>
</div>
<hr class='c007' />
<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Britons.</span></h3>
<div class='c011'>
<img class='drop-capi' src='images/i013.jpg' width='50' height='50' alt='' />
</div><p class='drop-capi1_2'>
THE Britons “like their neighbours the Gauls”<a id='r16' /><a href='#f16' class='c012'><sup>[16]</sup></a> (two
of whose heads were shewn copied from Roman
monuments,) were Bearded, though, probably, for some
purpose of distinction, their Chiefs, as stated by Cæsar
and others, had merely an enormous twisted moustache.
The Druids and their successors, the native British Clergy,
regarded this natural covering as adding to their dignity
and gracing their office and their age.<a id='r17' /><a href='#f17' class='c012'><sup>[17]</sup></a></p>
<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Saxons.</span></h3>
<p class='c015'>The Anglo-Saxons brought their Beards with them
which they preferred of the forked shape, and this again
might be either two-pronged, or three-pronged, or
plutonian and neptunian.</p>
<p class='c009'>St. Augustine is figured with his Beard on his appearance
to convert these Islands in the sixth century. His
followers must soon have shaved, because a writer of the
seventh century, complains that “the Clergy had grown
so corrupt as to be distinguished from the Laity less by
their actions than by their want of Beards.” The illustrious
Alfred was so careful of the Beards of his subjects,
that he inflicted the then heavy fine of twenty shillings on
any one maliciously injuring the Beard of another. The
Danes who invaded this country were Bearded. Fosbrooke
says, some of them wore Beards with six forks, and history
mentions Sueno the fork-beard.<a id='r18' /><a href='#f18' class='c012'><sup>[18]</sup></a></p>
<p class='c009'>During this period, the French monarchy was growing.
Its first kings held the Beard as sacred, and ornamented
it with gold. Their subjects were proud of it as marking
them out to be free men in contradistinction to the
degenerate Roman population. Alaric touched the Beard of
Clovis as a solemn mode of confirming a treaty, and acknowledging
Clovis as his godfather. The Merovingian
Dynasty were Bearded. Then came Charlemagne who
swore by his Beard, as did Otho the Great and Barbarossa,
Emperors of Germany, after him. The following story
shows the faith of those early times in the sacredness of
this form of adjuration. A peasant, who had sworn a
false oath on the relics of two holy Martyrs, having taken
hold of his Beard, as further confirmation, heaven to
punish him, caused the whole to come off in his hand!</p>
<p class='c009'>Charlemagne also enacted that any one who should
call another red beard or red-fox, should pay a heavy fine;
a law explained by a prejudice embodied in two German
proverbs.<a id='r19' /><a href='#f19' class='c012'><sup>[19]</sup></a></p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>Of red beard no good heard</div>
<div class='line'>Red beard—a knave to be feared;</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class='c018'>and carried to its climax in the anecdote of a Spanish
nobleman, who, having accused a man of some crime,
and the latter being proved innocent, exclaimed, “if he
did not do it he was plotting it, for the rascal has a
red beard!” Those who need consolation under this
calumny, traceable probably to an old notion, derived from
his name, that Judas Iscariot had a red beard, I am fortunately
able to refer to a sermon<a id='r20' /><a href='#f20' class='c012'><sup>[20]</sup></a> on that Arch-Traitor, full
of wit, humor, pathos, and imagination, by the celebrated
Abraham St. Clara, where red beards are nobly vindicated,
and the following noted instances cited:—</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line in2'>Several illustrious Romans,</div>
<div class='line in2'>The Emperor Barbarossa;</div>
<div class='line in2'>Hanquinus Rufus, King of the Goths;</div>
<div class='line in2'>Bishops Gaudentius and Gandulfius;</div>
<div class='line'>The Martyrs Dominicus, Maurinus, and Savinianus.</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class='c015'>During the distractions to which Charlemagne’s empire
was subject after his decease, the Northmen appeared, and
a band, under Rollo, having been converted and settled in
what is now Normandy, became known in English History
as the Normans; with whom an increasing intimacy
having sprung up in the reign of Edward the Confessor,
(whose head was shewn from the Bayeux tapestry,) a
Norman party was gradually formed at court and Norman
customs, one of which was shaving, partially adopted.
Harold, as representative of the real old English party, wore
his Beard as shown by a cotemporary MSS. illuminator;
but William the Conqueror, and most of his followers, are
figured only with a moustache and their back hair close
cropped or shaven. It was this <i>barbarous</i> fashion that
induced Harold’s spies to report to their master that the
invaders were an army of Priests.</p>
<p class='c009'>William is said to have attempted to compel the sturdy
Saxons to shave, but many of them left the kingdom
rather than part with their Beards. In this, as in other
matters, Anglo-Saxon firmness ultimately conquered the
conquerors, and the Norman sovereigns gave in to the
national custom. As early as Henry I, that is <i>only 44
years from William’s landing</i>, we learn that Bishop Serlo
met that monarch on his arrival in Normandy, and made
a long harangue on the enormities of the times, especially
long hair and bushy Beards, which he said they would not
clip, lest the stumps should wound the ladies’ faces. Henry,
with repentant obedience, submitted his hairy honors to
the Bishop, who with pious zeal, taking a pair of shears
from his trunk, trimmed king and nobles with his own
hand. This conduct of the Bishop is curiously illustrated
by a cotemporary decree of the Senate of Venice, of the
year 1102, commanding all long Beards to be cut off in
consequence of a Bull of Pope Paschal II, denouncing
the vanity of long hair, founded on a misinterpretation of
1st Corinthians, xii, 14,<a id='r21' /><a href='#f21' class='c012'><sup>[21]</sup></a> which applies only to the hair of
the head. On this text a sermon might be written though
scarcely preached, which would “a tale unfold, would
harrow up the soul.”<a id='r22' /><a href='#f22' class='c012'><sup>[22]</sup></a></p>
<p class='c009'>The stout king Stephen wore his Beard, and a Saxon
chronicler complains that in the civil wars of his time, in
order to extort the wealth of peaceable people, they were
“hung up by their Beards;” a proof the latter were long
and strong. Stephen’s cotemporary, Frederick the 1st of
Germany, to prevent quarrelling, laid a very heavy fine on
any one who pulled another’s Beard.</p>
<p class='c009'>Henry II, is said to have had a vision in which all
classes of his subjects reproached him in his sleep for his
tyranny and oppression. A cotemporary MSS. illuminator,
having fortunately designed several cartoons, really
much more expressive than some in the New Houses of
Parliament, from which we learn that the faces of all classes
of the people and of the Clergy then appeared as nature
made them, I selected one, representing the leaders
of the distressed agriculturalists of that remote period,
because while it illustrated my subject, it seemed to
possess great interest for that patient and much enduring
class. One could almost imagine the stout fellow with the
one-sided Saxon spade, to be urging on the heroes with
the pitchfork and scythe, nearly in the words of Marmion,</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>“Charge, Sibthorp,<a id='r23' /><a href='#f23' class='c012'><sup>[23]</sup></a> charge! On, Stanley, on!”</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class='c015'>Henry’s Queen Eleanor had been previously the wife of
Louis VII, of France, who having been persuaded by his
Priests to shave off his Beard, so disgusted Eleanor that
she obtained a divorce.<a id='r24' /><a href='#f24' class='c012'><sup>[24]</sup></a></p>
<p class='c009'>Richard the Lion-hearted was Bearded like a lion, and
though he was so absorbed in the Crusades that he did
not redress, yet he acknowledged the justice of the complaints
of the celebrated Longbeard, “Earl of London
and King of the Poor,” who did honor to his Beard by
resisting oppression, and perished, after an heroic struggle,
the victim of cowardice and treachery. The monuments
of Roger, Bishop of Sarum, and Andrew, Abbot of Peterborough,
shew that Bishops wore the Beard, and Abbots
and Monks shaved in this reign.</p>
<p class='c009'>John had what was called “a Judas’ Beard,” of which
his actions were every way worthy. Fortunately, the bold
Barons outbearded him, and Magna Charta was the result.
His son, Henry III, had a moderate Beard, and the longest
reign till George III. Edward I, shewed the Scots what
a long Beard could do with long shanks, and a long head
to back it.<a id='r25' /><a href='#f25' class='c012'><sup>[25]</sup></a> This king has been called the English Justinian,
both he and the Roman Emperor being noted for
improving the laws, and cherishing their Beards. Edward
the 2nd’s Beard, like his character, was more ornamental
than strong, and his reign is chiefly memorable for the
composition of that favorite old song quoted by Shakspeare,
“’Tis merry in hall, when Beards wag all!”</p>
<p class='c009'>Edward the 3rd’s bold Beard spread terror in Scotland and
France, and that of his son, the Black Prince—young as he
died—was an apt type of his “prowess in the tented field.”</p>
<p class='c009'>Richard the 2nd, with all his faults, was neither
deficient in Beard nor in courage—the latter shewn in his
meeting with Wat Tyler, and his defence against his
assassins. Henry IV, the crafty Bolingbroke, had a chin
cover, in whose every curl lurked an intrigue, of which
his son, Henry V, who was made of other metal, was so
ashamed, we presume, that he wore in penitence a shaven
chin throughout his ten years’ reign, as may be seen by
his monument in Westminster Abbey, the remains of
which still exist.</p>
<p class='c009'>Shaving continued partially in fashion in Henry the
6th’s reign, who himself in later life was Bearded like a
Philosopher, accustomed to moralize over the ups and
downs of life, of which he had no common share. Edward
the 4th shaved out of foppery; as did that smooth-faced
rascal, Richard III, who “could smile and smile and be a
villain.” Henry the 7th shaved himself and fleeced his
people.</p>
<p class='c009'>As may be seen in MSS. illuminations, and as we read
in Chaucer and elsewhere, the majority of the people
stuck to their Beards, uninfluenced by the fluctuations of
court fashions. The poet, who was born in Edward the
3rd’s time, and died in Henry the 4th’s, speaks of “the
merchant’s forked Beard;” “the Franklin’s white as a
daisy;” “the shipman’s shaken by many a tempest;” “the
miller’s red as a fox, and broad as though it were a spade;”
the Reeve’s close trimmed; the Sompnour’s piled; and
ends by a contemptuous allusion to the Pardonere with his
small voice:</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>“No Beard had he, nor never none should have,</div>
<div class='line'>As smooth it was as it were newe shave, &c.”</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class='c015'>Henry VIII, as you may still see on many sign boards,
for which his bluff, bloated face is so well adapted, had his
Beard close clipped. Once he swore to Francis the 1st
that he would never cut it till he had visited the latter,
who swore the same; and when long Beards had become
the fashion at the French Court, Sir Thomas Bulleyn was
obliged to excuse Henry’s bad faith, by alleging that the
Queen of England felt an insuperable antipathy to a bushy
chin, which, from the known considerate conduct of Henry
to his wives, must have been a very plausible plea! Sir T.
Moore shaved previous to his imprisonment. His Beard
being then allowed to grow, he conceived such an affection
for it, that before he laid his head on the block he carefully
put it on one side, remarking “that it at least was guiltless
of treason, and ought not to be punished.”</p>
<p class='c009'>Although Francis I, and his Court, cherished their
Beards, the Chancellor Duprat advised the imposition of
a tax on the Beards of the clergy, and promised the king
a handsome revenue. The bishops and wealthier clergy
paid the tax and saved their Beards; but the poorer
ministers were not so fortunate. In the succeeding reign,
the clergy determined on revenge; so when Duprat (son
of the Chancellor) was returning in triumph from the
council of Trent, to take possession of the bishopric of
Claremont, the dean and canons closed the brass gates of
the chancel, through which they were seen armed with
shears and razor, soap and basin, and pointing to the
statutes, “de radendis barbis.” Notwithstanding his remonstrances,
they refused to induct him unless he sacrificed
his Beard, which was the handsomest of his time.
He is said to have retired to his castle, and died of
vexation.</p>
<p class='c009'>In the same reign, John de Morillers was also objected
to by the Chapter of Orleans; but the cunning fellow
produced a letter from the king stating, that the statutes
must be dispensed with in his case, as his majesty intended
to employ him in countries where he could not appear
without a Beard.</p>
<p class='c009'>At the court of the rival of Francis, Charles the 5th,
who had himself a right royal covering to his chin,
lived John Mayo, his painter, a very tall man, but
with a Beard so long, that he could stand upon it; and in
which he took much pride, suspending it by ribbons to
his button-hole. Sometimes this mass of hair, by command
of the Emperor, was unfastened at table, and doors
and windows being thrown open, the imperial mind took
intense delight in seeing it blown into the faces of his
grimacing courtiers. Another noted German Beard was
that of a merchant of Braunau in Bavaria, which was so
long, that it would have draggled on the ground, had it
not been incased by its proud owner in a beautiful velvet
bag.<a id='r26' /><a href='#f26' class='c012'><sup>[26]</sup></a></p>
<p class='c009'>The promising Edward the 6th died before his Beard
developed; his sister Mary’s husband had one of the true
Spanish cut.</p>
<p class='c009'>In the time of “good Queen Bess,” when</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>“The grave Lord Chancellor<a id='r27' /><a href='#f27' class='c012'><sup>[27]</sup></a> led the dance,</div>
<div class='line'>And seal and mace tripped down before him,”</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class='c018'>she, who was no prude, and had a right royal sympathy
with every thing manly and becoming, surrounded herself
with men, who to the most punctilious courtesy, joined
the most adventurous spirit; and the Beard, as might have
been expected, grew and flourished mightily. Hence we
are not surprised at the wonderful efforts made by her
subjects in arms, and arts, and literature, so as to make
her reign an era to which we look back with patriotic
pride, and from which our best writers still draw as from
a well of deep perennial flow.<a id='r28' /><a href='#f28' class='c012'><sup>[28]</sup></a></p>
<p class='c009'>A feeble reflection of some of the heads of this period
were exhibited on the walls of the lecture room, as the
sagacious Burleigh; the adventurous Raleigh; the rash but
brave Essex; Nottingham, the High Admiral who scattered
the Armada; Gresham the Merchant Prince, who found
his Beard no hindrance to business; and the Poet of
Poets, whether ancient or modern, Shakspeare.</p>
<p class='c009'>As might be expected, the dramatic literature of the
time is full of allusions to that feature which men still
honored and admired. Lear can find no more pathetic
outburst of insulted majesty, in addressing his vile
daughter Goneril, than the words—</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>“Art not ashamed to look upon this Beard?”</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class='c018'>and when Regan insults the faithful Gloster, the latter
exclaims—</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>“By the kind Gods! ’Tis most ignobly done</div>
<div class='line'>To pluck me by the Beard!”</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class='c015'>In a more mocking humour, Shakspeare makes Cressida
say of Troilus’s chin, “alas poor chin! many a wart is
richer!” And Rosalind to Orlando, “I will pardon you
for not having a neglected Beard, for truly your having in
Beard is a younger brother’s revenue.”</p>
<p class='c009'>Then as characteristics, we have the black, white, straw-colored,
orange-tawney, purple-in-grain, and perfect yellow.
The soldier Bearded like a pard; the justice with
Beard of formal cut; the sexton’s hungry Beard; and the
Beard of the general’s cut; and that fine passage, which
you will pardon my quoting, if only to supply an obvious
correction naturally lost sight of by <i>Beardless</i> commentators.
If instead of the puerile conceit, <i>stairs</i> of sand, we
read <i>layers</i> of sand, we not only restore metaphorical
beauty but literal truth; for what is more deceitful than a
layer of sand, and the Beard is “a layer of hair.”</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>“There is no one so simple but assumes</div>
<div class='line'>Some mark of virtue on his outward parts;</div>
<div class='line'>How many cowards, whose hearts are all as false</div>
<div class='line'>As <i>layers</i> of sand, wear yet upon their chins</div>
<div class='line'>The Beards of Hercules and frowning Mars,</div>
<div class='line'>Who, inward searched, have livers white as milk:</div>
<div class='line'>And these assume but valour’s excrement</div>
<div class='line'>To make themselves redoubted.”<a id='r29' /><a href='#f29' class='c012'><sup>[29]</sup></a></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class='c015'>The witty Robert Green, published in 1592, a curious
dialogue,<a id='r30' /><a href='#f30' class='c012'><sup>[30]</sup></a> from which we get a glimpse into a Barber’s
shop of Queen Elizabeth’s time. Cloth-breeches complains
of the Barber’s attention to Velvet-breeches in these
terms. “His head being once dressed, which requires in
combing and brushing some two hours; then being curiously
washed with no worse than a camphor ball, you
descend as low as his Beard, and ask whether he please to
be shaven or no? whether he will have his peake cut short
and sharp, amiable like an innamorato, or broad pendant
like a spade, or le terrible, like a warrior or soldado?
whether he will have his crates cut low like a juniper
bush, or his subercles taken away with a razor? If it be
his pleasure to have his appendices pruned, or his moustaches
fostered to turn about his ears like the branches of a
vine, or cut down to the lip with the Italian lash, to make
him look like a half-faced bauby in brass. These quaint
terms Master Barber, you greet Master Velvet-breeches
withal, and at every word a snap with your scissors and a
cringe with your knee; whereas, when you come to poor
Cloth-breeches, you either cut his Beard at your own
pleasure, or else in disdain ask him if he will be trimmed
with Christ’s cut, round like the half of a Holland cheese,
mocking both Christ and us.”<a id='r31' /><a href='#f31' class='c012'><sup>[31]</sup></a></p>
<p class='c009'>In the reign of James the 1st, Beards continued in
fashion, and I extract two out of many passages from
Beaumont and Fletcher’s plays; the first being, not excepting
even that of Butler’s Hudibras, the most humourous
description of a Beard in the language. A banished
prince in disguise, having been elected “King of the
Beggars” on account of his Beard; Higgen the Orator of
the Troop proceeds in this fashion:—</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line in2'>“I then presaged thou shortly wouldst be king,</div>
<div class='line'>And now thou art so. But what need presage</div>
<div class='line'>To us, that might have read it in thy Beard,</div>
<div class='line'>As well as he that chose thee! By the Beard</div>
<div class='line'>Thou wert found out and marked for sovereignty.</div>
<div class='line'>O happy Beard! but happier Prince, whose Beard</div>
<div class='line'>Was so remarked as marked out our Prince</div>
<div class='line'>Not bating us a hair. Long may it grow,</div>
<div class='line'>And thick and fair, that who lives under it</div>
<div class='line'>May live as safe as under Beggar’s Bush,</div>
<div class='line'>Of which <i>it</i> is the thing—<i>that</i> but the type.</div>
<div class='line'>This is the Beard—the bush—or bushy Beard,</div>
<div class='line'>Under whose gold and silver reign ’twas said,</div>
<div class='line'>So many ages since, we all should smile!</div>
<div class='line'>No impositions, taxes, grievances,</div>
<div class='line'>Knots in a state, and whips unto a subject,</div>
<div class='line'>Lie lurking in this Beard, but all combed out.”</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class='c015'>In his Queen of Corinth we learn that—</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>“The Roman T, your T-Beard is the fashion,</div>
<div class='line'>And twifold doth express the enamoured courtier</div>
<div class='line'>As full as your <i>fork carving</i> doth the traveller.”</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class='c015'>The last line alluding to Coryate the traveller’s recent
introduction of the dinner-fork from Italy.</p>
<p class='c009'>Of this Roman T-Beard another writer humorously
says—</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line in2'>“The Roman T,</div>
<div class='line in2'>In its bravery,</div>
<div class='line'>Doth first itself disclose:</div>
</div>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line in2'>But so high it turns,</div>
<div class='line in2'>That oft it burns</div>
<div class='line'>With the flame of a torrid nose.”</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class='c018'>and then adds—</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line in2'>“The soldier’s Beard</div>
<div class='line in2'>Doth match in this herd</div>
<div class='line'>In figure like a spade;</div>
</div>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line in2'>With which he will make</div>
<div class='line in2'>His enemies quake</div>
<div class='line'>To think their grave is made.”</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class='c015'>In 1610, died Henry IV, of France, whose Beard is
said “to have diffused over his countenance a majestic
sweetness and amiable openness;” his son Louis XIII,<a id='r33' /><a href='#f33' class='c012'><sup>[33]</sup></a>
ascending the throne while yet a minor, the courtiers and
others, to keep him in countenance, began to shave,
leaving merely the tuft called a mouche or royal. Sully,
however, the famous minister of Henry, stoutly refused to
adopt the effeminate custom. Being sent for to court, and
those about the king having mocked at his old-fashioned
Beard, the duke indignantly turned to Louis and said,
“Sire! when your father of glorious memory did me the
honor to hold a consultation on grave and important business,
the first thing he did was to order out of the room all
the buffoons and stage dancers of his court!” About this
time also, Marshal Bassompierre having been released from
a long imprisonment, declared the chief alteration he
found was, “that the men had lost their Beards and the
horses their tails.”</p>
<p class='c009'>Under our first Charles,<a id='r34' /><a href='#f34' class='c012'><sup>[34]</sup></a> the sides of the face were often
shaven, and the Beard reduced to the moustache, and a
long chin-tuft, as in the portrait of that monarch, retaining
however still some of its former gracefulness. As the
contest grew hotter between Cavalier and Roundhead,
doubtless some of the latter cropped chin as well as head;
though others are said to have been so careful of their
Beards, as to provide them with pasteboard night-caps to
prevent the hairs being rumpled.</p>
<p class='c009'>In one instance it was worn long for a sign, as we see
by the following verse—</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>“This worthy knight was one that swore</div>
<div class='line in2'>He would not cut his Beard,</div>
<div class='line'>’Till this ungodly nation was</div>
<div class='line in2'>From kings and bishops cleared:</div>
</div>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line in1'>Which holy vow he firmly kept,</div>
<div class='line in2'>And most devoutly wore</div>
<div class='line in1'>A grizzly meteor on his face,</div>
<div class='line in2'>’Till they were both no more.”<a id='r35' /><a href='#f35' class='c012'><sup>[35]</sup></a></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class='c015'>Under Charles the 2nd, the Beard dwindled into the
mere moustache, and then vanished. And when we consider
the French apery of that un-English court, it is no
wonder the Beard appeared too bold and manly an ensign
to be tolerated. It went out first among the upper classes
in London, and by slow degrees the sturdy country squires
and yeomen also yielded their free honors to the slavish
effeminate fashion, which, by the force of example, descended
even to the working classes, on whom it imposed
new burdens and some bodily diseases from which their
hardy frames had been hitherto exempt. It is to be
hoped, that when any one for the future talks about the
Beard being a <i>foreign</i> fashion, he will be reminded that
it is a good old English natural fashion, and that the
present custom of shaving was borrowed from France, at
a time when we had no credit to borrow anything else,
seeing that king, courtiers, and patriots, were all the pensioned
dependents of the French monarch! The sooner
therefore we cease to shave, the sooner shall we wipe out
the remembrance of a disgraceful period of our history!</p>
<p class='c009'>One amusing proof that the Beard continued to be worn
by the country people after its decline about the court, is
afforded by an anecdote of the notorious Judge Jeffries,
who, in his browbeating way, thus addressed a party before
him. “If your conscience be as large as your Beard, fellow!
it must be a swinging one.” To which the witness
replied, “If consciences be measured by Beards, I am
afraid your lordship has none at all.”</p>
<p class='c009'>In 1700, Charles V ascended the throne of Spain, with
a smooth chin; and his example was gradually followed,
though the popular feeling has been condensed into the
proverb—“Since we have lost our Beards, we have lost
our souls;” and no one can question that loss of Beard
and empire in that country have singularly coincided.</p>
<p class='c009'>Two brief anecdotes will shew the sense of honor which
formerly resided in Spanish and Portuguese Beards.</p>
<p class='c009'>Cid Rai Diaz dying, a spiteful Jew stole into the room
to do what he durst not when Diaz was alive—pluck the
noble Spaniard’s Beard! As he stooped for the purpose,
the body started up and drew the sword lying in state by
its side. The Jew fled horror-struck; the corpse smiled
grimly, and resumed its repose; and the Jew turned
Christian.</p>
<p class='c009'>When the brave John de Castro had taken the Indian
fortress of Dieu, being in want of supplies, he pledged
one of his moustaches for a thousand pistoles, saying “all
the gold in the world cannot equal the value of this natural
ornament of my valour.” The inhabitants of Goa,
especially the ladies, were so struck with this magnaminous
sacrifice, that they raised the money and redeemed the
pledge.</p>
<p class='c009'>The last European nation to lay aside the Beard was
the Russian, in whose ancient code it was enacted that
whoever plucks hair from another’s Beard shall be fined
four times as much as for cutting off a finger. Peter the
Great, (who always remained a semi-savage), like many
other half-informed reformers, sought to accomplish his
objects by arbitrary measures rather than by moral persuasion.
Having, when in the west, seen unbearded faces,
he jumped to the conclusion that absence of Beard was a
necessary part of civilization; forgetting that a shaven
savage is a savage still. He therefore ordered all his
subjects to shave, imposing a tax of one hundred roubles
on all nobles, gentlemen, tradesmen, and artizans, and a
copeck on the lower classes. Great commotions were the
result; but Peter was obstinate and made a crusade with
scissors and razor, much resembling a Franco-African
Razzia, which you know means a clean shave of everything
with very dirty hands! Some, to avoid disgrace,
parted with their Beards voluntarily, but all preserved the
hairs to be buried in their coffins; the more superstitious
believing that unless they could present theirs to St.
Nicholas, he would refuse them admission to heaven as
Beardless Christians.</p>
<p class='c009'>One of the most difficult tasks was to deal with the
army; in this, Peter proceeded with characteristic cunning.
Through the agency of the priests, the soldiers were told
that they were going to fight the Turks, who wore Beards,
and that their patron saint St. Nicholas would not be able
to protect his beloved Russians, unless they consented to
distinguish themselves by removing their Beards! You see
how stale are the Czar’s late tricks! Convinced by this
pious fraud, the credulous soldiers obeyed the imperial
mandate. The next war, however, was against the Swedes,
and the soldiers, who had suffered severely from shaving,
turned the tables upon the priests, and said, “the Swedes
have no Beards, we must therefore let ours grow again,
lest, as you say, the holy Nicholas should not know us!”</p>
<p class='c009'>It is a note-worthy historical fact, which shews the
danger arising from discarding the natural for the artificial,
that as <i>Beards died out, false hair came in</i>. A mountain
of womanish curls rested on the head, and was made to
fall in effeminate ringlets over neck and shoulders, while
the whole face was kept as smooth, and smug, and characterless
as razor could make it. This renders it so disagreeable
a task to look through a series of Kneller’s portraits,
who, clever as he was, could not impart the freedom and
vigour of nature to this absurd fashion. A portrait of
Addison,<a id='r37' /><a href='#f37' class='c012'><sup>[37]</sup></a> was shewn as an illustration, because, as has
been seen, though he complied with the mode, he was
occasionally favored with visions of better times, past and
to come.<a id='r38' /><a href='#f38' class='c012'><sup>[38]</sup></a></p>
<p class='c009'>To the reign of false curls, succeeded that still more
egregious outrage—that climax of coxcombry—powder,
pomatum, and pigtails! The former to give the snows of
age to the ruddy face of youth; the latter being, I suppose,
an attempt of some bright genius to outdo nature,</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>By hanging a stiff black tail behind,</div>
<div class='line'>Instead of a flowing beard before,</div>
<div class='line'>As if, by this ensign, the world to remind,</div>
<div class='line'>How wise it had grown since old father Noah.</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class='c015'>This was the period when every breeze was a Zephyr,
every maid a Chlöe, every woman a Venus, and every fat
squinting child a Cupid! Later German critics even christen
the writers of this school, “the Pigtail Poets.”<a id='r39' /><a href='#f39' class='c012'><sup>[39]</sup></a></p>
<p class='c009'>The first French Revolution made an end of all this
trumpery, and though Alison and other professed historians
have not classed the event among the good things
flowing from that fearful flood of blood and blasphemy,
it was not one of the least, and society cannot rejoice too
much at being delivered from the example of systematic
frippery, frivolity, and tricked-out vice of the later French
Sovereigns, imitated as they were by most of the petty
puppet Princes of Germany—</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>Each lesser ape in his small way,</div>
<div class='line'>Playing his antics like the greater.</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class='c015'>About the rise of the first Napoleon to power, a more
simple, severe, and classic taste, was beginning to prevail,
and this dictated a return to the Beard. Under the
military despotism, however, of that Emperor, moustaches
were forbidden to civilians, and the Beard restrained to
that petty, hairy imitation of a reversed triangle—called
after its reviver, who never personally wore it—the <i>imperial</i>,
as if to denote to the people that they were to
have the smallest possible share in the <i>empire</i>.</p>
<p class='c009'>With every attempt at freedom on the Continent, the
Beard re-appears; it was one of the most effective standards
in the war of freedom, when Germany rose against
Napoleon. In 1830, it was partially revived in France,
and later still it has made many a perjured continental
monarch<a id='r40' /><a href='#f40' class='c012'><sup>[40]</sup></a> “quake and tremble in his capital,” and reminded
him that in spite of neglected promises and false
oaths, the reign of injustice “hangs but on a hair,” of
which the police will not always be able to check the free
growth.</p>
<p class='c009'>I have now merely to notice very briefly, four modern
objections to the Beard.</p>
<p class='c009'>I. “<i>That it is less cleanly than shaving.</i>” To this, the
answer is, that depends upon the wearer; and it will take
less time to keep clean, than to shave, especially where, as
in England, every one washes the face more than once a
day. Besides, if this were an argument, we had better
shave the head and eyebrows as well.</p>
<p class='c009'>II. “<i>That it would take as much time to keep the
Beard in order, as to shave.</i>” Supposing even it did, still
there is a most important difference both in the two operations
and in their results. For the process of combing
and brushing the Beard, instead of being tedious, uncertain,
and often painful, like shaving,<a id='r41' /><a href='#f41' class='c012'><sup>[41]</sup></a> confers a positively
delightful sensation, similar to that which one may imagine
a cat to experience,</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>When smoothing gently down its fur,</div>
<div class='line'>It answers with a purr, purr, purr;</div>
<div class='line'>And in its drooping half-shut eye,</div>
<div class='line'>A dreamy pleasure we espy.</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class='c015'>And while the result of shaving is a mere negation, depriving
us of a natural protection, and exposing us to disease,
the other process, consume what time we will, is natural
and instinctive, and attended with the satisfaction of adding
the grace of neatness to nature’s stamp of man’s nobility.</p>
<p class='c009'>III. “<i>That the ladies dont like it!</i>” This Professor
Burdach and Dr. Elliotson, pronounce a foul libel.<a id='r42' /><a href='#f42' class='c012'><sup>[42]</sup></a>
Ladies by their very nature like every thing manly; and
though from custom the Beard may at first sight have a
strange look, they will soon be reconciled to it, and think,
with Beatrice, that a man without, “<i>is only fit to be their
waiting gentlewoman</i>.”<a id='r43' /><a href='#f43' class='c012'><sup>[43]</sup></a> I have already mentioned one
instance of a queen despising her husband, because he
was priest-ridden enough to shave; and here I present you
with a second in this veritable portrait (shewing it) of a
painter in the reign of George I, of the name of Liotard,
who having returned from his travels in the East, with this
fine flow of curling comeliness, was irresistible. He followed
his fate, and married, but then, alas, unhappy wretch!
took one day the whim to shave off his Eastern glory.
Directly his wife saw him, the charm of that ideal which
every true woman forms of her lover, was broken; for
instead of a dignified manly countenance, her eyes fell
upon a small pinched face, with nose celestial and mouth
most animally terrestial,</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>And such a little perking chin,</div>
<div class='line'>To kiss it seemed almost a sin!</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class='c015'>IV. “<i>That a Beard may be very comfortable in Winter
but too hot in Summer!</i>” The better races of the sons
of torrid Africa wear Beards, as did the ancient Numidians,
and Tyro-African Carthaginians before them. The Arab
in the arid parching desert cherishes his! Are we afraid of
being warmer than these in an English Summer? Besides,
as we have already shewn, the Beard is a non-conductor of
heat as well as cold.<a id='r44' /><a href='#f44' class='c012'><sup>[44]</sup></a></p>
<p class='c009'>Having now, ladies and gentlemen, offered proofs that
the Beard is a natural feature of the male face, and designed
by Providence for distinction, protection, and ornament,
and shewn you historically, that while there was
never any sufficient reason alleged for leaving it off, unless
a heaven condemned superstition, or the capricious dictates
of fops and profligates, afford to any sound mind reasonable
motives of action, need I ask you not to oppose the efforts
of those who, reverencing the Creator’s laws as above the
dictates of man, conceive themselves justified in returning
to the more natural course. On our part we will, notwithstanding
all that we have said, freely allow any one to
continue the practice of shaving, who will be content with
the same plea as a certain Duke de Brissac, who was often
overheard uttering the following soliloquy while adjusting
his razor to the proper angle. “Timoleon de Cosse, God
hath made thee a Gentleman, and the King hath made
thee a Duke; it is right and fit, however, that thou
shouldst have something to do, therefore thou shalt shave
thyself!”</p>
<hr class='c019' />
<div class='nf-center-c0'>
<div class='nf-center'>
<div>HADDOCK, (LATE PAWSEY,) PRINTER, IPSWICH.</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class='figcenter id004'>
<img src='images/i041.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' />
</div>
<div class='pbb'>
<hr class='pb c005' />
</div>
<div class='chapter'>
<h2 class='c006'>Footnotes.</h2>
</div>
<hr class='c020' />
<div class='footnote c021' id='f1'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r1'>1</a>. </span>Vide Hassell’s Microscopic Anatomy. Haller says “Withof
calculated that the hair of the Beard grows at the rate of 1½ line
in the week, which is 6½ inches in the year, and by the time a man
reaches eighty, 27 feet will have fallen under the edge of the razor.”</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f2'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r2'>2</a>. </span>The whiskers of Confucius are said to be preserved as relics
in China.</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f3'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r3'>3</a>. </span>I can from personal experience state, that being subject
when younger to swelling of the upper lip from cold, previous to
entering Switzerland I allowed my moustache to grow. During
six weeks excursion on foot, exposed to all weathers and stopping
for none, being at one moment in warm valleys and a few hours
afterwards at the top of ice-clad mountains, I never felt the least
uncomfortableness about the mouth. When on returning home,
however, I was foolish enough to shave, I paid dearly for the
operation.</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f4'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r4'>4</a>. </span>Elmes says, “The Beard in Art has an ideal character as an
attribute, and distinguished by its undulating curl the Beard of
Jupiter Olympius from that of Jupiter Serapis (who has a longer
and straighter Beard) the lank Beard of Neptune and the river
Gods, from the short and frizzly Beards of Hercules, Ajax, Diomede,
Ulysses, &c.”</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f5'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r5'>5</a>. </span>“It is customary to shave the Ottoman Princes as a mark of
subjection to the reigning Sultan; and those who serve in the Seraglio
have their Beards shaven as a sign of servitude, and do not
suffer it to grow till the Sultan has set them at liberty.”—<i>Burder’s
Oriental Customs.</i> Volney says, “At length Ibrahim Bey suffered
Ali his page to let his Beard grow, <i>i.e.</i>, gave him his freedom, for
among the Turks to want the Beard is thought only fit for slaves
and women.”</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f6'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r6'>6</a>. </span>Dr. Wolff says, Mahomed Effendi told him “that the Mahomedans
believed that though Noah lived 1000 years, no hair of his
blessed Beard fell off, or became white; while that of the Devil consists
only of one long hair;” and the same Mahomed, wishing to
compliment two midshipmen, “hoped they would some day have
fine long Beards like himself.”</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f7'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r7'>7</a>. </span>Niebuhr says, “I once saw, in a caravan, an Arab highly
offended at a man who had accidentally bespattered his Beard. It
was with difficulty he could be appeased, even though the offender
humbly asked his pardon, and kissed his Beard in token of submission.”
Though I avoided breaking the argument by its insertion
under the account of the Jews, it may be interesting to state, that
Moses, in Numbers, orders a man to be considered unclean for
seven days, whose Beard has been defiled in this way: and that
David could scarcely have devised a more efficient means to convince
Achish of his madness, than the expedient he adopted of
allowing his saliva to descend upon his Beard.</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f8'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r8'>8</a>. </span>It used to be considered one of the almost impossible feats of
Chivalry to pluck a hair from the Sultan’s Beard.—(May the Russians
find it quite so!) The romance of Oberon is founded on this
notion, and Shakspeare makes Benedict say in a spirit of bravado,
“I’ll fetch you a hair off the great Cham’s Beard.” (<i>i.e.</i> Khan of
Tartary’s Beard.)</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f9'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r9'>9</a>. </span>The Rev. John More, of Norwich, a worthy clergyman in
Elizabeth’s reign, who is said to have had the longest and largest
Beard of any Englishman of his time, seems to have chosen this
Spartan for his model; since when asked to give a reason for it he
replied, “that no act of his life might be unworthy of the gravity
of his appearance.” And Baudinus, quoted by Pagenstecher, says,
Frederick Taubman, the celebrated German wit, humourist, and
theologian, being asked the same question answered, “in order that
whenever I behold these hairs, I may remember that I am no vile
coward or old woman, but a man, called Frederick Taubman.”</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f10'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r10'>10</a>. </span>That the Beard, however, sometimes afforded a handle to an
enemy in ancient times, when swords, especially the Greek, were
very short, is admitted. And I possess an engraving from one of
Raphael’s Vatican Cartoons, where one soldier is represented in the
act of cutting down another whom he has seized by the Beard.
He must be a poor master of his weapon, however, who in modern
times would allow a man to grasp his Beard without being hewn
down or run through in the process.</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f11'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r11'>11</a>. </span>Suetonius says, “he was excessively nice about his body,
that he was not only sheered and shaved, but plucked.”</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f12'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r12'>12</a>. </span>Besides shaving, the Romans as they progressed in luxurious
effeminacy, used depilatories, tweezers and all sorts of contrivances
to make themselves as little like men and as much like women as
possible; and their satirists abound with passages impossible to
quote with decency on the causes and consequences of this abrogation
of the distinctive peculiarities of the two sexes.</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f13'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r13'>13</a>. </span>Pagenstecher says, “one of the Emperors of Rome refused to
admit to an audience certain Ambassadors of the Veneti, because
they had no Beards.”</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f14'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r14'>14</a>. </span>The branch of the Roman family to which Nero belonged
was called Enobarbus, copper-coloured or red Beard; and the
legend of the family was, that the Dioscuri announced to one of
their ancestors a victory, and to confirm the truth of what was said,
stroked his black hair and Beard, and turned them red. Cn.
Domitius, who was Censor with L. Crassus the orator, “took” says
Pagenstecher, “too much pride in his,” and Crassus fired away the
following epigram upon it. “Quid mirum si barbam habet aeneam
Domitius cum et os ferreum et cor habet plumbeum.” (Where’s
the wonder Domitius has a brazen Beard, when he has bones of
iron and a heart of lead.) Shakspeare (the <i>unlearned</i>!) who never
loses a characteristic, makes his Enobarbus, (who was great grandfather
of Nero, wore a Beard, as seen on his medals, and was a fine
bold warrior,) speak thus of Antony, under the fascination of
Cleopatra:—</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'><span class='sc'>Lep.</span> “Good Enobarbus, ’Tis a worthy deed,</div>
<div class='line in5'>And shall become you well, to entreat your Captain</div>
<div class='line in5'>To soft and gentle speech.”</div>
</div>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'><span class='sc'>Enob.</span> “I shall entreat him</div>
<div class='line in6'>To answer like himself: if Cæsar move him,</div>
<div class='line in6'>Let Antony look over Cæsar’s head,</div>
<div class='line in6'>And speak as loud as Mars. <i>By Jupiter,</i></div>
<div class='line in6'><i>Were I the wearer of Antonius’ Beard,</i></div>
<div class='line in6'><i>I would not shave’t to-day.</i>”</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class='c015'>This passage evidently associates the Beard with manly determination,
and shaving with the want of it, for subsequently Enobarbus
speaks of Antony’s effeminacy in these words:—</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line in6'>“Our courteous Antony,</div>
<div class='line'>Whom ne’er the word of No woman heard speak,</div>
<div class='line'><i>Being barber’d ten times o’er</i>, goes to the feast,</div>
<div class='line'>And for his ordinary pays his heart</div>
<div class='line'>For what his eyes eat only.”</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f15'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r15'>15</a>. </span>Arcite in Chaucer’s Knight’s Tale thus devotes his Beard to
Mars:—</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>“And eke to this avow I wol me bind,</div>
<div class='line in1'>My Berd, my here that hangeth low adoun,</div>
<div class='line in1'>That never yet felt non offensioun</div>
<div class='line in1'>Of rasour, ne of shere, I wol thee yeve.”</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f16'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r16'>16</a>. </span>The Goths and Dacians, as seen on the Roman monuments,
were Bearded; and the ancient Hungarians, Raumer states, wore
long Beards adorned with gold and jewels. The Catti also were
accustomed not to trim the hair of the head or Beard till they had
proved their manliness by slaying an enemy in battle.</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f17'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r17'>17</a>. </span>One of the Legends of King Arthur mentions a giant who
made “a great exhibition of domestic manufacture,” consisting of a
“cloak fringed with the Beards of kings.”</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f18'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r18'>18</a>. </span>Many princes have borne the title of Bearded—as the Greek
Emperor Constantine Pogonatus, Count Godfrey, the Emperor
Barbarossa, and Eberhard Duke of Wirtemberg in the reign of
Maximilian, whose wisdom might truly be said to have grown with
his Beard, and on whom the following verse was made:—</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>“Hic situs est cui <i>barba</i> dedit cognomina Princeps,</div>
<div class='line'>Princeps Teutonici gloria magna soli.”</div>
<div class='line'>(Here is a Prince whose Beard gave his surname,</div>
<div class='line'>A Prince the glory of the land Almayne.)</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f19'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r19'>19</a>. </span></p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>Rothbart nie gut wart</div>
<div class='line'>Rothbart Schelmen art.</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f20'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r20'>20</a>. </span>Judas der Ertz. Schelm.</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f21'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r21'>21</a>. </span>A writer in Dickens’ Household Words says Pope Anacletus,
(query 1st or 2nd) was the first who introduced the custom of shaving.</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f22'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r22'>22</a>. </span>In this and in other places I am obliged to leave under a veil
of obscure allusion, arguments of thrilling force, not only from
ancient but from our own history: matters not to be met with in
ordinary histories; but too abundant in the pages of satirists and
moralists, who were hardy enough to lash the prevalent follies and
vices of the times in which they lived.</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f23'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r23'>23</a>. </span>I trust my honest and uncompromising brother Beard will
pardon the liberty I have taken with his name. No one can be a
more sincere admirer than myself of the manly way in which he
maintains his opinions on all occasions, and the humorous kindness
of disposition which renders him beloved in private and in public.
I should always esteem him as a public man, were it only for his
long and single-handed fight against that economical iniquity—that
suicidal tax on prudence and foresight, and bounty on improvidence—the
Fire Insurance Duty!</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f24'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r24'>24</a>. </span>“She had,” says D’Israeli, “for her marriage dower the rich
province of Poitou and Guyenne; and this was the origin of those
wars which for 300 years ravaged France, and cost the French three
million of men. All which probably had never occurred had Louis
VII not been so rash as to crop his head and shave his Beard, by
which he became so disgustful in the eyes of our Queen Eleanor.”</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f25'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r25'>25</a>. </span>No true Scotchman would pardon me if I omitted to note
that the brave Wallace had “a most brave Beard.”</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f26'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r26'>26</a>. </span>Southey in “The Doctor” mentions the Beard of Dominico
d’Ancona, as the crown or King of Beards,</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>A Beard the most singular</div>
<div class='line'>Man ever described in verse or prose;</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class='c018'>and of which Berni says, “that the Barber ought to have felt less
reluctance in cutting the said Dominico’s throat, than in cutting
off so incomparable a Beard.” But Southey is outdone by a story
told by Dr. Ehle in his work on the hair, where mention is made
of two seven-foot giants with Beards down to their toes, at the
court of one of the German sovereigns. They both fell in love
with the same woman, and their master decided that whichever
should succeed in putting his rival into a sack, should have the
maiden. One of them sacked the other after a long duel before
the whole court, and married the girl. That the pair lived happily
afterwards, as the Novelists say, is proved by their having as many
signs of affection as there are in the Zodiac; and it is worthy of
remark, both physiologically and astrologically, that the whole
twelve were born under one sign, Gemini.</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f27'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r27'>27</a>. </span>It surely will not be denied by any Judge of taste, that the
Chancellor and other legal dignitaries would look more dignified
in their own hair and with Beards of “reverend grey,” than in the
present absurd, fantastic, unnatural and unbecoming frosted ivy
bushes, with a black crow’s nest in the centre, in which Minerva
might more readily mistake them for stray specimens of her favorite
bird, the owl, than for learned, intelligent, and logical “sages of
the law.”</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f28'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r28'>28</a>. </span>Although an attempt was made in this reign to restrain the
growth of legal Beards by some pragmatical heads of Lincoln’s Inn,
who passed a resolution “that no fellow of that house should wear
a Beard of above a fortnight’s growth;” and although transgression
was punished with fine, loss of commons, and final expulsion, such
was the vigorous resistance to this act of tyranny, that in the following
year all previous orders respecting Beards were repealed. <i>Percy
Anecdotes.</i></p>
<p class='c022'>About the same time also in Germany the moustache was partially
substituted for the Beard, as appears by Berckemej’s Europ.
Antiq. p. 294, who under the year 1564 says, the Archbishop Sigismund
introduced in Magdeburgh the custom of shaving off the full
Beard and wearing instead a moustache. The year in which this
Beard-reformation (de-formation?) happened, was contained in this
pentameter—</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>“Longa sIgIsMVnDo barba IVbente perIt.”</div>
<div class='line'>“Sigismund commanding, the long Beard perished in</div>
<div class='line in1'>MDLVV (= X) IIII. or 1564.”</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f29'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r29'>29</a>. </span>Pagenstecher asks “which was the city where Beard and foot made the magistrate?”
and then proceeds gravely to relate that the inhabitants of Hardenberg had
formerly the singular custom of electing their mayors or burgomasters by assembling
at a round table, where while some of the town council were employed in inspecting
their Beards, others were engaged in estimating their feet—the biggest
Beard and largest foot being “called to the scarlet.” And rightly too! for the Beard
denoted authority and wisdom, and the large foot an understanding likely to take
grave steps when needed. As containing a valuable hint to modern corporations to
look well to the essential points of a mayor—too often overlooked—I trust, this note
upon note will be pardoned.</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f30'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r30'>30</a>. </span>“Quip for an Upstart Courtier.”</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f31'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r31'>31</a>. </span>A Ben Jonson, among other allusions to the Beard, has the following:—</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>I am heartily grieved a Beard of your grave length</div>
<div class='line'>Should be so over-reach’d. (“The Fox.”)</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class='c018'>In his Alchemist <i>Subtle</i> telling <i>Drugger’s</i> fortune says—</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line in6'>——“This summer</div>
<div class='line'>He will be of the clothing of his company,</div>
<div class='line'>And next spring called to the scarlet.”</div>
</div>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'><span class='sc'>Face.</span> <i>What and so little Beard!</i><a id='r32' /><a href='#f32' class='c012'><sup>[32]</sup></a></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f32'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r32'>32</a>. </span>Lilly in one of his Dramas makes a Barber say to his customer,
“How, sir, will you be trimmed? Will you have a Beard
like a spade or a bodkin? A penthouse on your upper lip or an
ally on your chin? Your moustaches sharp at the ends like shoemaker’s
awls, or hanging down to your mouth like goat’s flakes?”</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f33'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r33'>33</a>. </span>“In this reign, whiskers however attained to a high degree of
favour at the expense of the expiring Beard, and continued so
under Louis XIV, who, with all the great men of his court, took a
great pride in wearing them. In those days of gallantry, it was no
uncommon thing for a lover to have his whiskers turned up, combed
and pomatumed by his mistress; and a man of fashion was always
provided with every necessary article for this purpose, especially
whisker wax.” <i>Percy Anecdotes.</i></p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f34'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r34'>34</a>. </span>D’Israeli quotes an author of this reign, who in his “Elements
of Education” says, “I have a favourable opinion of that young
gentleman who is <i>curious in fine moustachios</i>. The time he employs
in adjusting, dressing and curling them, is no lost time; <i>for the
more he contemplates his moustachios, the more his mind will cherish
and be animated by masculine and courageous notions</i>.”</p>
<p class='c022'>D’Israeli also states, that the grandfather of Mrs. Thomas, the
“Corinna of Dryden,” was very nice in the mode of that age, his
valet being some hours every morning in <i>starching his Beard and
curling his whiskers</i>, during which time he was always read to.</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f35'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r35'>35</a>. </span>Taylor, the Water Poet, who lived from the end of Elizabeth
to nearly the end of the Commonwealth, thus humorously describes
the various fashions of this appendage.</p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>“Now a few lines to paper I will put,</div>
<div class='line'>Of men’s Beards strange and variable cut,</div>
<div class='line'>In which there’s some that take as vain a pride,</div>
<div class='line'>As almost in all other things beside:</div>
<div class='line'>Some are reaped most substantial like a brush,</div>
<div class='line'>Which makes a natural wit known by the bush;</div>
<div class='line'>And in my time of some men I have heard,</div>
<div class='line'>Whose wisdom hath been only wealth and Beard:</div>
<div class='line'>Many of these the proverb well doth fit,</div>
<div class='line'>Which says <i>bush</i> natural more hair than wit:</div>
<div class='line'>Some seem as they were starched stiff and fine,</div>
<div class='line'>Like to the bristles of some angry swine;</div>
<div class='line'>And some, to set their loves’ desire on edge,</div>
<div class='line'>Are cut and prun’d like to a quickset hedge.</div>
<div class='line'>Some like a spade, some like a fork, some square,</div>
<div class='line'>Some round, some mow’d like stubble, some stark bare,</div>
<div class='line'>Some sharp, stiletto-fashion,<a id='r36' /><a href='#f36' class='c012'><sup>[36]</sup></a> dagger-like,</div>
<div class='line'>That may, with whispering, a man’s eyes outpike.</div>
<div class='line'>Some with the hammer cut or Roman T,</div>
<div class='line'>Their Beards extravagant reform’d must be;</div>
<div class='line'>Some with the quadrate, some triangle-fashion,</div>
<div class='line'>Some circular, some oval in translation;</div>
<div class='line'>Some perpendicular in longitude,</div>
<div class='line'>Some like a thicket for their crassitude.</div>
<div class='line'>The heighths, depths, breadths, triform, square, oval, round,</div>
<div class='line'>And rules geometrical in Beards are found.”</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f36'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r36'>36</a>. </span></p>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>“The stiletto Beard</div>
<div class='line in1'>It makes me afeard</div>
<div class='line in1'>It is so sharp beneath:</div>
</div>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line in1'>For he that doth wear</div>
<div class='line in1'>A dagger in his face,</div>
<div class='line in1'>What must he wear in his sheath.”</div>
<div class='c023'><i>Old Author.</i></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
<div class='linegroup'>
<div class='group'>
<div class='line'>“Who make sharp Beards and little breeches Deities.”</div>
<div class='c023'><i>Beaumont and Fletcher.</i></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f37'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r37'>37</a>. </span>I cannot refrain from alluding in a note to a curious fact.
On the day this Lecture was given, a little boy was brought to look
at the portraits just after they were hung. I said to him, “Edward,
which face do you like best?” He instantly touched the portrait of
Addison, and said, “that’s the best woman,” and “that’s the best
man!” pointing to the well-bearded face of Leonardo da Vinci.</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f38'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r38'>38</a>. </span>That Southey had the same compunctious visitings as Addison,
appears clearly enough, for while in his Doctor he compares
“shaving at home” with “slavery abroad;” states that “a good
razor is more difficult to meet with, than a good wife;” denounces
the practice “as preposterous and irrational,” as “troublesome, inconvenient,”
and attended with “discomfort, especially in frosty
weather and March winds;” places it on an equality with the curse
pronounced on Eve; and concludes with the opinion that “if the
daily shavings of one year could be put into one shave, the operation
would be more than flesh and blood could bear;” he has
nothing to say in favour of shaving, but that it encourages
Barbers, compels the shaver to some moments of calm thought
and reflection, and enables him to draw lessons from the looking
glass that nobody with razor in hand ever thought of. These words
in another place give a key to his real opinion. “If I wore a
Beard,” he writes, “I would cherish it as the Cid Campeador did
his, for my pleasure. I would regale it on a Summer’s day with
rose-water, and without making it an idol, I should sometimes offer
incense to it with a pastille, or with lavender and sugar. My children,
when they were young enough for such blandishments, would
have delighted to comb and stroke and curl it, and my grandchildren
in their time would have succeeded to the same course of
mutual endearment.”</p>
<p class='c022'>See also Leigh Hunt’s humourous paper on Lie-abeds in the
Indicator, where he calls “shaving a villainous and unnecessary
custom.”</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f39'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r39'>39</a>. </span>Seume, a German poet of a better school, in his travels says,
“To-day I threw my powder apparatus out of window, when will the
day come that I can send my shaving apparatus after it!”</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f40'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r40'>40</a>. </span>One hardly knows which is the most detestable, the canting
hypocrisy of Prussian constitutional pretence,—the more open poltroonery
of Neapolitan despotism—or the paternal care to prevent
even the buddings of free thought as in Austria, where I can state
from my own knowledge that Schiller’s works were seized as contraband
on the Hungarian frontier, and a party in the Austrian service
who had attempted to defend the conduct of the government at a
Table d’Hôte was sent for by the head of the police, and when to
excuse himself he alleged he was speaking for the government, was
replied to—“Young man, the government want no defence—no discussion—and
your wisest course is to be silent!”</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f41'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r41'>41</a>. </span>There is something in the operation of shaving which, besides
its painfulness, ought to make it repulsive to those who do not
shave themselves—such as having the face bedaubed with lather
and rubbed with a brush, which has done the same office for hundreds
of chins. It is amusing to hear a knot of free and independent
Englishmen roaring “Britons never will be slaves;” most of
whom will give their chins to be mown and their noses to be pulled
by any common Barber, and pay him too for the pulling. Even
when the party is a self-shaver, to say nothing of the waste of time,
what a number of petty annoyances and exercises of temper
does it involve! Notwithstanding the boasts of cold water shavers,
depend upon it in rigorous weather most people prefer hot to cold
water, which renders them slaves to their servants; next, razors,
as we know from puff advertisements and our own experience,
are the most uncertain of articles; then there is the state of
the nerves, that even the strongest cannot always control, causing
the unsteady hand to gash and hack the chin, or cover it with
blood from the beheading of those pimply eruptions of which the
razor has been ofttimes the originator.</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f42'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r42'>42</a>. </span>Old Burton in his Anatomy of Melancholy adds his quaint
testimony. “No sooner doth a young man see his sweetheart coming,
than he smugs up himself, pulls up his cloak, ties his garter
points, sets his band and cuffs, sticks his hair, <i>twires his Beard</i>,” &c.</p>
<p class='c022'>D’Israeli also says, “when the fair sex were accustomed to behold
their lovers with Beards, the sight of a shaved chin excited feelings
of horror and aversion; as much indeed as in this less heroic age
would a gallant whose luxuriant Beard should ‘Stream like a
meteor to the troubled air.’”</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f43'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r43'>43</a>. </span>The whole dialogue from whence this phrase is taken, is suggestive
of the contempt with which the ladies of Elizabeth and
James the 1st’s time regarded a hairless chin. And there are
numerous passages in our old Dramatists which might be quoted to
the same effect, but that some of the allusions do not square with
modern notions of delicacy.</p>
</div>
<div class='footnote c021' id='f44'>
<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r44'>44</a>. </span>It is scarcely conceivable what strange remarks have been
made to me on the subject of the Beard. One party very gravely
enquired whether I really thought that Adam had a Beard? Another
was remonstrating with me on the first manifestations of my
moustache; against whom I wickedly urged the argumentum ad
feminam—you don’t object to it in the military? when the daughter
naively chimed in, “why you know, Sir, <i>it is natural to them</i>!”
Two or three acute persons, one of them a lawyer, have objected,
“but you have your hair cut!” To which I have replied, “yes!
but I don’t shave it off; and I trim my Beard instead of removing
it. You also pare your nails; but you don’t think of plucking
them out, do you?”</p>
</div>
<div class='pbb'>
<hr class='pb c005' />
</div>
<p class='c009'> </p>
<div class='tnbox'>
<ul class='ul_1 c005'>
<li>Transcriber’s Notes:
<ul class='ul_2'>
<li>The footnotes were gathered into one section at the end of the text.
</li>
<li>Some of the text on the title page was illegible, and was omitted.
</li>
<li>Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected.
</li>
<li>Typographical errors were silently corrected.
</li>
<li>Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only when a predominant
form was found in this book.
</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
</div>
<p class='c009'> </p>
<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 60009 ***</div>
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