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-Project Gutenberg's Grand Moving Diorama of Hindostan, by Fanny Parks
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: Grand Moving Diorama of Hindostan
- Displaying the Scenery of the Hoogly, the Bhagirathi, and
- the Ganges, from Fort William, Bengal, to Gangoutri, in
- the Himalaya
-
-Author: Fanny Parks
-
-Release Date: July 29, 2019 [EBook #60006]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GRAND MOVING DIORAMA OF HINDOSTAN ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Richard Tonsing, Chris Curnow and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
-file was produced from images generously made available
-by The Internet Archive)
-
-
-
-
-
-
- Asiatic Gallery,
-
- BAKER STREET BAZĀR, PORTMAN SQUARE.
-
-
-
-
- GRAND MOVING DIORAMA OF
- HINDOSTĀN,
- DISPLAYING THE SCENERY OF THE HOOGLY, THE BHĀGĪRATHĪ, AND THE GANGES,
- FROM FORT WILLIAM, BENGAL, TO GANGOUTRĪ,
- IN THE HIMALAYA.
-
-
- BY
-
-[Illustration]
-
- _Visitors to the Diorama are allowed to inspect_
- THE MUSEUM.
-
- London:
- PUBLISHED AT THE ASIATIC GALLERY, BAKER STREET BAZĀR.
- _Price One Shilling._
-
-
-
-
- Entered at Stationers’ Hall.
-
-
-
-
- THE DIORAMA OF HINDOSTĀN
-
-
- Has been Painted by
-
- Mr. PHILIP PHILLIPS;
-
- The FIGURES and ANIMALS by Mr. LOUIS HAGHE;
-
- The SHIPPING by Mr. KNELL.
-
-The whole of the Scenes of the Diorama have been arranged by Lieutenant
-Colonel LUARD, from his own original and unpublished sketches, taken
-during a residence of fourteen years in India; aided by the kindness of
-friends, who have placed at his disposal the original sketches of
-
- The late Sir CHARLES D’OYLY, Bart.,
- The late JAMES PRINSEP, Esq.,
- The late Captain PRINSEP,
- The late Colonel EDWARD SMITH,
- Major WHITE,
- WILLIAM PRINSEP, Esq.,
- GEORGE CHINNERY, Esq.,
- WELBY JACKSON, Esq.,
-
-and the Author of “Wanderings of a Pilgrim, during Four-and-Twenty
-Years, in the East.”
-
-
-
-
- LIST OF PLATES.
-
-
- NO. PAGE
-
- 1 Fort William, Bengal 9
-
- 2 Prinsep’s Ghāt 11
-
- 3 The Fakīr 16
-
- 4 Barrackpore 24
-
- 5 The Elephant Establishment 27
-
- 6 Sīckrī-Galī 32
-
- 7 The Foolish Fakīr 35
-
- 8 The Minarets 42
-
- 9 The Satī 58
-
- 10 Hurdwar 62
-
- 11 Simla—The Conical Hill 65
-
- 12 Gangoutrī 67
-
-
-
-
- INTRODUCTION.
-
-
-In the month of October, 1589, a body of English merchants addressed a
-memorial to her majesty, Queen Elizabeth, requesting licence to equip
-three ships for the purpose of trading to the East Indies: this request
-appears to have been favourably received, and in 1591 the first English
-commercial voyage was commenced in three vessels. It proved a disastrous
-one; but considerable experience was obtained, and the ardour of the
-English merchants was but little damped by the result.
-
-In 1599 an association of merchant adventurers was formed in London,
-with a capital of 30,000_l._, for the purpose of trading “_to the East
-Indies and countries thereabout_;” and the royal assent was applied for
-and obtained to this project, “_intended for the honour of their native
-country, and the advancement of trade and merchandise within the realm
-of England_.” The Charter was dated, 31st December, 1600. This
-association, which may be looked upon as the foundation of the present
-East India Company, led to a succession of voyages more or less
-fortunate, which, before long, resulted in the Company obtaining
-establishments at various places on the coast of the Peninsula, as well
-as among the eastern islands. The Presidencies of Madras and Bombay were
-first established; but that of Bengal, although the latest, was soon
-rendered by circumstances the most important of the three, and is now
-the seat of the supreme government of India.
-
-On the 20th December, 1687, Mr. Job Charnock, the agent for the
-Kossimbazār factory on the Hoogly, finding it no longer safe to remain
-at that place, moved down to the village of Chuttanuttee, on the present
-site of Calcutta, with all the ships, troops, and property, where they
-commenced to intrench themselves. They were afterwards forced to move
-down the river to Ingellee, in which pestilential climate the whole
-force would have been carried off, had not the Emperor Aurungzebe made
-overtures to Mr. Charnock and allowed him to return to Chuttanuttee. In
-1691 they were allowed to form a settlement there: it increased rapidly,
-and was permanently fixed upon as the head-quarters of the Company’s
-establishments in Bengal.
-
-Chuttanuttee occupied the site of the present native portion of the
-city; Govindpoor stood where the new Fort William is erected; and the
-European part of the city, including the site of the old Fort, is built
-within the precincts of Kalleeghatta, hence originated the modern
-appellation of Calcutta; and as the founder of that city, Mr. Job
-Charnock’s name will probably be remembered as long as the British
-Empire in India shall exist. He died in 1692, and was buried in the old
-Cemetery, where his tomb is yet to be seen in the old burying-ground of
-St. John’s Cathedral, being one of the few allowed to remain when that
-building was erected.
-
-In 1695, a rebellion having broken out in Bengal, the local government
-applied to the Nawāb for permission to put their factories in a state of
-defence, and on the request not being positively refused, they hastened
-to erect walls of masonry, with bastions or flanking towers at the
-angles, round their several factories, and thus originated the
-fortifications of Calcutta. In 1699, Sir Charles Eyre was re-appointed
-to the charge of Bengal, which was then for the first time raised to the
-rank of a Presidency. Orders were issued that the fortifications should
-be strengthened and rendered regular, so as to afford a safe retreat for
-all their servants and property; and it was recommended to give the
-outline of the buildings the form of a pentagon, if possible, that being
-at the time considered the strongest figure of defence. In 1701–2, the
-court issued orders that the Fort should be made a regular pentagon with
-bastions, and the works be made extensive enough to accommodate all the
-establishments of the out-factories. In the year 1707–8, the rival
-interests of the “Old London” and the new “English Company” were merged
-into “The United Company of Merchants trading to the East Indies.”
-
-In 1742, the Mahrattas devastated the whole province, and sacked the
-town of Hoogly. On this occasion, the English applied for and obtained
-permission to dig a ditch and throw up an intrenchment round their
-settlement, which, if completed, would have extended more than seven
-miles. When little more than three miles of the ditch were completed,
-finding that the Mahrattas did not advance, the work was discontinued:
-it was, however, always known afterwards as the Mahratta Ditch; some
-traces of which still remain—hence the people of Calcutta are sometimes
-called the Ditchers.
-
-The Nawāb Sooraj-oo-Dowlah succeeded to the government of Bengal in
-1756. He entertained the greatest dislike to the English, and
-determined, if possible, to expel them from the country. In June, 1756,
-he appeared before the factory at Kossimbazār, and the place not being
-tenable, it surrendered. The Nawāb advanced with expedition and attacked
-Calcutta, which surrendered on the 20th. Mr. Holwell, with a party
-amounting to 146 persons, were thrown into the Black Hole—the history of
-which is too well known to need repetition. The Nawāb having ransacked
-Calcutta, changed its name to Alīnuggur, and flattering himself he had
-for ever extirpated the English power, thought it unnecessary to follow
-up the small party of refugees assembled at Fultah. In December, 1756,
-an armament, under the command of Colonel Robert Clive, arrived at
-Fultah, and recaptured Calcutta, where they found the greater part of
-the merchandise that had been left there, it having been reserved for
-the use of the Nawāb.
-
-
-
-
- DIORAMA OF HINDOSTĀN.
-
-
-The subject of the Diorama which we shall have the honour to explain, is
-the course of the Ganges from its source to Fort William, Bengal:—its
-picturesque scenery, the towns and temples on its banks, the religious
-ceremonies, and the customs of the inhabitants, both Hindū and Musalmān,
-will be pourtrayed. This noble river, considered the most sacred in
-Hindostān, takes its rise at Gangoutrī, in the Himalaya, and issues from
-the mountains upon the plains near Hurdwar. It passes within a few miles
-of Meerut, flowing on to Furrackabad, Cawnpore, and Allahabad; at the
-latter, it joins the Jumna, the first river of importance with which it
-unites. Hence its course becomes more winding, its bed wider, and the
-united streams flow past Mirzapūr, Chunar, Benares, and Ghazipūr. A
-little above Chupra, the River Ghogra falls into the Ganges on the left
-bank; and below Arrah, on the opposite bank, is its junction with the
-Soane. At Hājīpūr, the Gunduk increases the powerful stream, which flows
-on and passes Patna, Monghir, Bhagulpūr, Colgong, and Rajmahal, until it
-reaches Gopalgunj, at which place a branch of the Ganges quits the main
-stream, and flowing by Sooty and Moorshedabad is called the Bhāgīrathī,
-until it reaches Nuddea. The main stream of the Ganges running to the
-eastward, joins the Berhampootra, and after its union with that river,
-falls into the Bay of Bengal. This, the main stream of the Ganges, is
-not looked upon with equal veneration by the Hindūs as the branch
-before-mentioned, which, flowing by Sooty and Moorshedabad, is called
-the Bhāgīrathī, until it reaches Nuddea, at which place it is joined by
-the Jellinghy, and the united currents flow on, passing Calcutta, to the
-island of Sāgar, under the name of the Hoogly. Prior to the commencement
-of the nineteenth century, the Ganges had been traced by Hindū pilgrims
-from Hindostān into the snowy mountains that run in a direction
-north-west to south-east on the frontiers of India. We will now ascend
-the stream, stopping, as is the custom with pilgrims, at the junction of
-rivers, and other sacred places, considered peculiarly holy by the
-Hindūs, until we reach the last shrine, Gangoutrī, the source of the
-Holy River.
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
- FORT WILLIAM.
-
-Fort William, the citadel of Calcutta, is situated on the left bank of
-the Hoogly, about a quarter of a mile below the town; it is a European
-fortification, and was called Fort William in honour of his majesty King
-William the Third. This Citadel was commenced by Lord Clive soon after
-the Battle of Plassey, which was fought in 1757; it is capable of
-containing 15,000 men, and the works are so extensive, that 10,000 would
-be required to defend them efficiently. The works do not make an
-imposing appearance from without, nor are they perceptible until closely
-approached: this excites great surprise in the natives coming from the
-interior, who always connect the idea of great strength with great
-elevation. It is of octagonal form; five of the faces are regular, while
-the forms of the other three next the river are according to local
-circumstances.
-
-The Esplanade, Chowringhee, and the site of Fort William were, so late
-as 1756, a complete jungle, interspersed with a few huts, and small
-pieces of grazing and arable land.
-
-The view now presented shows a part of the rampart of Fort William; the
-Hoogly flows beneath, Calcutta appears in the distance, stretching from
-Chandpaul Ghāt to Chowringhee Road; the situation of the Ghāt is marked
-by the high chimney of the building, containing a steam engine for
-raising water.
-
-The next building in the back ground is the Bank of Bengal; the long
-colonnade is in front of the Supreme Court of Judicature; and to the
-right is the Cathedral of St. John, which stands partly on the site of
-the old Cemetery. In clearing away the ground for its foundation, the
-tomb of Mr. Job Charnock, the founder of Calcutta, was discovered: he
-died in 1692. The tomb of Mr. Hamilton was also found, and is now placed
-in the same building with that of Mr. Charnock. Mr. Hamilton was surgeon
-to the embassy sent to the court of the Emperor Furrookhseer, and the
-Company are indebted to him for having induced the Emperor to grant them
-many privileges, and to confirm all former ones: he died in 1717. Mr.
-Speke was also buried in the old Cemetery, and his tomb, with those
-before-mentioned, is one of the few allowed to remain there on the
-erection of St. John’s Cathedral, where they are still to be seen. The
-first stone of St. John’s Cathedral, in Council House Street, was laid
-on the 6th of April, 1781. On a plate of copper, graved in the stone, is
-the following inscription:—“The first stone of this sacred building,
-raised by the liberal and voluntary subscription of British subjects and
-others, was laid, under the auspices of the Honourable Warren Hastings,
-Esq., Governor-General of India, on the 6th day of April, 1784, and the
-thirteenth year of his Government.”
-
-The architect was Lieutenant James Agg, of the Engineer Corps. On the
-24th of June, 1787, the Church was consecrated and dedicated to St.
-John. Sir John Zoffani, the celebrated artist, bestowed the altar-piece,
-representing the Last Supper.
-
-The Town Hall, a fine building, is rendered conspicuous by its Doric
-portico; it was erected by the inhabitants of Calcutta in 1804: the
-Government Treasury succeeds it, and in the distance is the spire of St.
-Andrew’s Church, in the Lall Bazār.
-
-The Government House, the principal building in Calcutta, was erected
-about the year 1804, during the administration of the Marquis Wellesley;
-the architect was Captain Wyatt, of the Engineers. The entrances, or
-great gateways, are each crowned by a lion, and are continually the
-resting-places of the _Hargīla_, the gigantic crane, commonly called the
-Adjutant.
-
-The Column on the right was erected to the memory of Major-General Sir
-David Auchterlony, on account of his distinguished services. It is 160
-feet in height, and stands on the Esplanade in front of the town.
-
-_Hargīlas_ or Adjutants are numerous in the Fort, and so tame, that they
-will allow men to pass very near them and show no signs of fear; they
-stalk about the Esplanade, and rest in the most picturesque manner on
-the highest buildings in the city.
-
-The officer, with his bearer holding a _chatr_, or native umbrella, to
-protect him from the sun, is watching some monkeys; and a _griffin_, as
-a young cadet is called for the first year, is amusing himself with
-teazing one.
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
- PRINSEP’S GHĀT.
-
-The audience are now requested to imagine they have embarked upon the
-Hoogly, off Prinsep’s Ghāt, the first landing-place of importance that
-is met with on approaching the City of Palaces. James Prinsep, Esq.,
-died in 1840, and his fellow-citizens in Calcutta erected this ghāt to
-his memory, as having been one of the leaders of science in India, the
-promoter of every good work, a faithful and useful public servant, and a
-warm and true friend. The building in the distance is St. Peter’s, the
-garrison Church in the Fort, and the vessel passing up the river is
-complimented by a salute from its battery. Beyond the flag-staff is the
-Semaphore, or telegraph, a high tower from which intelligence is
-conveyed by signals.
-
-
- THE WATER GATE.
-
-The Water Gate of Fort William is now before you, and the horsemen are
-on the Esplanade,—a road extending by the river side, from Chandpaul
-Ghāt, to Garden Reach. This is the favourite ride and drive, during the
-early morning and in the cool of the evening, of all the inhabitants of
-Calcutta. A _dinghī_, a native boat covered with matting, is going up
-the river, filled with _gharas_, or jars of coarse, red earthenware,
-used for holding water.
-
-The Governor-General’s pleasure boat, called the _Sona makhī_, or golden
-fly, is moored beyond; she has beautiful accommodations, and is
-perfectly suited to the river and the climate. From this point is seen
-the Government House: the edifice is a noble one, and particularly well
-adapted in its plan and interior arrangements to the climate. The
-external view is grand and imposing, and it is a fit and proper
-residence for the supreme ruler of our Indian possessions. Its two
-entrances or gateways are shown, and the line of houses, inhabited by
-Europeans, in Esplanade Row, in front of which is the Auchterlony
-Monument.
-
-The long line of vessels so closely moored off the bank, are boats,
-called Budjerows; they are commanded by a native called a _Sarhang_ or
-_Mānghī_, and carry 12, 14, 16, or 18 oars, and are generally used by
-persons going to the upper provinces.
-
-
- BĀBŪ GHĀT.
-
-This building was erected by a wealthy native gentleman, and therefore
-termed _Bābū_ Ghāt—the title _Bābū_, given by Hindūs, is equivalent to
-Mr. or to Esq., and is now as common as the latter terms are among us.
-Numerous small boats are crowding by the steps, and a _dinghī_ has just
-put off. A ferry boat with passengers is crossing from the opposite side
-of the river, in which a _chaukidār_, or native policeman, is
-conspicuous, with his sword and shield. The Bengālīs generally carry
-_chatrs_ (umbrellas) during the heat of the day, made of matting, or
-covered with red calico.
-
-The street now visible is Esplanade Row, which runs from Chandpaul Ghāt
-by the Government House to Chowringhee Road; it is full of fine houses
-belonging to Europeans.
-
-
- CHANDPAUL GHĀT.
-
-The people are seen crowding on Chandpaul Ghāt; and the low,
-semicircular building at the summit, is the Police Station. The
-octagonal building with its long chimney contains a steam-engine, used
-for raising water from the river, for the supply of the town, watering
-the roads, &c.; but the water used for drinking and culinary purposes,
-is brought from the tanks by water-carriers. It is believed that this
-was the first steam-engine set up in Bengal. The water passes from the
-engine-well into a large brick-built reservoir, and from it into
-aqueducts constructed on one side of the road. The Bank of Bengal is on
-the other side of the road called the Strand, and the high pillars of
-its verandahs face the Esplanade.
-
-Colvin’s Buildings appear to great advantage; they are lofty and
-spacious. Three merchant vessels are anchored off the Strand, and to
-each of their chain cables a piece of wood is attached, in a manner that
-prevents the water-rats from getting up them into the vessels. A native
-fishing-boat with her immense net fixed upon two bamboos, is making for
-the ghāt—perhaps bearing a freight of _Tapsi Mach_, or mango fish (so
-called because they come in with the mango season); hence the Hindustanī
-proverb, “Mangoes and fish meet of necessity.” They are the great luxury
-of the Calcutta epicures, who make parties to Budge-budge down the river
-to enjoy the mango fish, as those of London resort to Blackwall for
-white-bait.
-
-From the Bankshall a red boat (No. 7) is going out with a pilot to some
-vessel in the river. Bankshall is said to be a Dutch name for the chief
-landing-place, which was afterwards converted into the East India
-Company’s marine and pilot depôt.
-
-
- THE STEAM MILLS.
-
-The fine buildings that now meet the eye are the Strand Mills, the
-property of the late Mr. Smithson, who erected them for the purpose of
-grinding corn by means of steam engines. It is said the speculation
-proved a failure, because the natives will not send their wheat to be
-ground in a mill in which it is mixed with the wheat of people of
-another caste, and with that sent by Europeans. It is the custom in
-Hindostan for each family to grind its own corn at home between two
-circular stones called _chakkī_, and this work is usually performed by
-the women. It was proposed to the King of Oude to erect steam mills for
-grinding corn in his dominions; but he refused to comply with the
-request, because it would throw the old women with their _chakkīs_ out
-of work.
-
-On the right is a _daunā_ or donī, a country vessel, a coaster and
-trader, commanded by a _Sarhang_;—the crew are natives; the vessel is
-short, thick, clumsy, and marvellously ugly.
-
-
- THE MINT.
-
-The _Taksāl_, or Mint, a fine edifice of the Doric order, was planned
-and erected by Colonel Forbes, the present Mint master. The wide-ranging
-buildings of the new Mint, with their tall chimneys, appear to great
-advantage when viewed from the river. The Bengal Government set the
-first example of introducing extensive machinery, in the erection of the
-new Mint of Calcutta, which is filled with the best specimens of the
-skill and genius of Messrs. Watt and Co.; and the politeness of the Mint
-and Assay masters insures easy access to view the fine and ample
-machinery.
-
-A Chinese junk on the right adds greatly to the picturesque beauty of
-the river, on which Arab _grabs_, and vessels from all parts of the
-world, are crowded together. An eye is painted on each side the bows of
-the Chinese junk, to enable the spirit of the vessel to see her way
-across the deep.
-
-In the foreground is the hulk of a country ship under repair, beyond
-which are three vessels from Malacca.
-
-
- BENGAL COTTAGE SCENERY.
-
-The scene now changes to the right bank, the opposite side of the river,
-at sunset. On the landing-place are natives bathing, and every where the
-margin of the water is studded with human beings. One man is filling his
-_gharas_ (earthen water vessels), which he carries suspended by ropes
-from a bamboo poised on his shoulder. Bengalī women are bringing empty
-water jars to fill at the river side, and in the shade a woman is
-returning from the holy stream on her way to some idol, bearing on her
-hand a brass tray containing a small vessel filled with water, and oil,
-and rice, and flowers for _pūjā_—that is, worship. A _Dhobī_ is washing
-clothes by dipping them in the river, and beating them on a rough piece
-of slanting board, the custom of the washermen in the East.
-
-The shop of a _Modī_, a grain merchant and seller of fruit, is now
-before you. Oranges, melons, limes, jackfruit, pummelos, pine-apples,
-all that is offered for sale in such abundance and at so small a price
-in this country are displayed at various seasons most invitingly. The
-fruit-seller is a very pious man, if we may judge from the pictures of
-the Hindū deities stuck on the wall of his shop, but which are too much
-in the shade to be very distinct. On the bamboo support of his thatch is
-a painting of Hūnūmān, the monkey god, in which he is represented
-bearing off on his shoulders the god Rām, and Sīta the beloved, from
-Ceylon: a fac-simile of this painting is in the Pilgrim’s Museum, being
-one of 32 paintings of the gods purchased at the Great Fair at Allahabad
-for one rupee!
-
-The natives are particularly fond of pigeons: they roost during the day
-on a frame-work, supported on a bamboo, as here pourtrayed; and the
-great delight of the pigeon-fancier is to fly his flock against that of
-another, making his birds wheel and turn, ascend and descend, and obey
-his every wish, by directing their course with a long thin bamboo. You
-continually see men and boys of an evening standing on the house-tops,
-amusing themselves with flying their pigeons.
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
- THE FAKĪR.
-
-The group in the foreground represents a _Bābū_, a native gentleman,
-awaiting the cool of the evening before he enters his palanquin; an
-attendant is supporting a _chatr_, or native umbrella, over his head,
-and the bearers with the palanquin are in attendance.
-
-In front is a Muhammadan _Fakīr_ leading a white bull fancifully adorned
-with peacocks’ feathers, cowrie shells, coloured worsted tassels, bits
-of brightly-coloured cloth, and brass bells; the plume on the top of his
-neck is the tail of the _yāk_, the cow of Tartary, much used in
-Hindostān in the adornment of holy bulls and of horses. In the
-back-ground is an Hindū temple, gilded by the rays of the setting sun.
-
-The portico or entrance to the house of an opulent _Bābū_, a Bengalī
-gentleman, now appears; it is of native architecture, singular and
-handsome; the ornaments of some of the pillars are most elaborate, and
-it is remarkable that each has a separate design.
-
-
- THE NĀCH.
-
-The scene now represents the interior of the building during the
-celebration of the festival of the _Dūrga-pūjā_, or _Dasera_, held in
-honour of the goddess Dūrga, and the performance of a _nāch_ by the
-dancing-girls of Hindostān. During the _Dūrga-pūjā_ holidays, which last
-eight or ten days, the Hindūs lay aside all kind of business, save what
-necessity renders indispensable to pursue, and shops and offices are
-shut up while that great religious ceremonial is in course of being
-observed.
-
-The house, as is generally the case, is a four-sided building, having an
-area in the middle, on one side of which the image of the goddess is
-raised on a throne, and some Brahmans are in attendance. The area is
-open to the sky, and a temporary ceiling is formed by fastening ropes
-across from wall to wall, over which a cotton carpet of native
-manufacture, called _shatranjī_, is spread, thus forming a roof; the
-floor is also covered with a gay cloth of the same manufacture, and a
-Persian carpet.
-
-The goddess Dūrga, in whose honour this festival is held, derives her
-name from the giant Dūrgŭ, whom she is represented in the act of slaying
-with a trident as he issues from the neck of a buffalo, whose head she
-has cut off. The image is that of a yellow woman with ten arms, which
-are stretched out and filled with instruments of war. This goddess has a
-thousand names, and has assumed innumerable forms.
-
-The bright half of the month _Aswina_, the first of the Hindū lunar
-year, is peculiarly devoted to Dūrga. The first nine nights are allotted
-to her decoration; on the sixth she is awakened; on the seventh she is
-invited to a bower formed of the leaves of nine plants, of which the
-_bilwa_ is the chief. The seventh, eighth, and ninth are the great days;
-on the last, the victims which are immolated to her honour must be
-killed with one blow only from a sharp sword or axe. The next day the
-goddess is reverently dismissed, and her image is cast into the river,
-which finishes the festival of the _Dasera_.
-
-The black figure at the side of the goddess is that of Krishnŭ, one of
-the most popular gods of the Hindū Pantheon; he is greatly worshipped in
-Bengal, as well as in all parts of Hindostān, a great proportion of the
-Hindū population being devoted to him, and he is especially beloved by
-the women. A black marble figure of this popular deity stands in the
-Pilgrim’s Museum, as well as a small brazen one of Dūrga; the latter is
-very ancient. Immense sums are expended by wealthy Bengalīs during the
-_Dūrga-pūjā_.
-
-The _Bābū_ is conversing with his European guests, and offering flowers
-to one of the ladies, who, seated on a sofa, is talking to those around
-her, and witnessing the _nāch_. The dancing-girls wear a very full
-petticoat of fine-coloured muslin, trimmed with deep borders of gold and
-silver, full satin trowsers which all but cover their naked and jewelled
-feet; and the _dopatta_, a large veil worn over the head, is highly
-embroidered. Various ornaments of native jewellery adorn their persons;
-their anklets are formed of numerous small brass bells that sound in
-time with their steps in the measured dance, and rings adorn their toes.
-In the thumb ring, which is about two inches in diameter, a bit of
-looking-glass is inserted, in which the nāch-girl often looks to see if
-her tresses are in order, and to adjust her flowing drapery. They dance,
-or rather move in a circle, attitudinizing and making the small brass
-bells fastened to their ankles sound in unison with their movements.
-Several men, the musicians of the party, attend each set of nāch-girls;
-they play on divers curiously-shaped native instruments.
-
-In the hands of one of the native servants, standing near the steps, is
-a silver tray containing a _gulab-dānī_ (a gold or silver vessel used in
-sprinkling rose-water on departing guests), and the smaller vessel at
-its side, of elegant form, contains the _’atr_ of roses, which is placed
-on their hands at the same time.
-
-Before the temples of Dūrga thousands of animals are annually
-slaughtered and offered to her image. In the portico is represented the
-sacrifice of a goat; the officiating Brahman, after bathing it, either
-in the river or in the house, puts his left hand on its forehead, marks
-its horns and forehead with red-lead, and repeats an invocation, in
-which he offers it up to the goddess thus: “O goddess, I sacrifice this
-goat to thee, that I may live in thy heaven to the end of ten years.” He
-then reads an incantation in its ear, and puts flowers and sprinkles
-water on its head. The instrument with which the animal is to be killed
-is next consecrated; the goat’s head is then put into an upright post,
-excavated at the top so as to admit the neck between its forks, the body
-remaining on one side the post and the head on the other; after which
-the executioner cuts off the head with one blow. After all the animals
-have been thus killed, and some of the flesh and the heads carried
-before the image, the officiating Brahman repeats certain prayers over
-these offerings and presents them to the goddess.
-
-The square pillars of the building are of pure Hindostānī architecture,
-very singular, and elaborately carved.
-
-
- OFFERING OF LIGHTS TO THE RIVER.
-
-Having witnessed the _nāch_ and some of the ceremonies of the
-_Dūrga-pūjā_ festival, we now quit the illuminated area, and pass into
-the beautiful, the delicious moonlight of the East. Some Bengalī huts
-are beneath the trees; a _chaukīdar_, or native watchman, is standing
-before his hut, formed of straw and bamboo, on which his shield is hung;
-and a native beyond is cooking his evening meal.
-
-The soft moonlight falls upon the river, and upon its bank several
-Bengalī women are sending off little paper boats, each containing a
-lamp. With what earnestness they watch these little fire-fly boats, in
-which they have adventured their happiness, as they float down the
-stream! If at the moment the paper boat disappears in the distance the
-lamp is still burning, the wish of the votary will be crowned with
-success; but, if the lamp be extinguished, the hope for which the
-offering was made will be doomed to disappointment. With what eagerness
-does the mother watch the little light, to know if her child will or
-will not recover from sickness! At times, the river is covered with
-fleets of these little lamps, hurried along by the rapid stream. Even
-when it is not in honour of any particular festival, natives may be seen
-offering lamps to Ganga (the Ganges), the sacred river.
-
-A _pataīla_ (a country vessel), and two _oolāks_ are now in view; the
-natives always moor their vessels during the night, it being dangerous
-to proceed on the river during the hours of darkness.
-
-
- THE MURDA GHĀT.
-
-We now cross to the opposite side, the left bank of the Hoogly, to a
-_murda ghāt_, a spot where the funeral rites of the Hindūs are
-performed. The nearest relative, as is the custom, is stirring up the
-body, and pushing it into the flames with a long pole; much oil and
-_ghī_ (clarified butter) is poured over the wood, to make it burn
-fiercely: in all probability the son of the deceased is performing the
-ceremony. We read of the Romans burning their dead, regard it in a
-classical light, and think of it without disgust; but when we see the
-ceremony really performed, it is very painful: nevertheless, a sort of
-absurdity is mixed with it in the mind, as “Stir him up with the long
-pole” flashes across the memory. On the conclusion of the ceremony, the
-relatives bathe and return to their homes. The _charpāī_, or native bed,
-on which the corpse is carried down to the river side, being reckoned
-unclean, is generally thrown into the stream, or left on the bank. If a
-large quantity of wood and _ghī_ be consumed, we may imagine the
-deceased to have been a rich man; the relatives of the very poor
-scarcely do more than scorch the body, and throw it into the river,
-where it floats swollen and scorched—a horrible sight. The burning of
-the body is one of the first ceremonies the Hindūs perform for the help
-of the dead in a future state. If this ceremony have not been attended
-to, the rites for the repose of the soul cannot be performed.
-
-Perched on the house-top are three vultures, and an _hargīla_, or
-adjutant, awaiting the time that they may pounce upon the remains of the
-corpse, when it is consigned to the holy river. These insatiate birds of
-prey perch upon the abutting walls, waiting their opportunity to
-descend; whilst others, repulsed by the attendants of the funeral fires,
-fly heavily across the river, passing across the native boats, through
-the tattered sails of which you might almost mark their flight. It is a
-sickening sight, rendered infinitely more sickening by the abominable
-effluvium which issues from the bank of death, in spite of the scented
-wood and other odoriferous substances, that are placed upon the funeral
-pile of a rich Hindū, and burnt with the body. This custom illustrates
-the text, “So shall they burn odours for thee.” (Jeremiah xxxiv. 5.) The
-Hindūs believe, that persons for whom funeral rites have not been
-performed, wander as ghosts, and find no rest.
-
-An English gentleman travelling _dāk_ is standing on the bank; he has
-just crossed over, and is watching the bearers who are getting his
-palanquin out of the boat. _Dāk_ journeys are usually performed, during
-the hot weather, by night, and the traveller rests at some house during
-the day. Of a moonlight night a _dāk_ trip is far from being
-disagreeable.
-
-
- THE PĪPAL TREE.
-
-A Bengali village now appears beneath a group of cocoa-nut trees, beyond
-which the _Pīpal_-tree (ficus religiosa) is seen, with its roots
-exposed, the earth having been washed from them during the rains by the
-rising of the river. This tree is particularly venerated by the Hindūs;
-they believe its sacred branches to be the residence of the gods, and
-will never cut a branch to the injury of the tree. In front, a Hindū is
-sitting at worship by the side of the river; a _charpāī_, on which
-probably a corpse has been brought to be burned, is near the spot, also
-a skull and some bones: skulls are continually seen on the banks of the
-river.
-
-
- PANHUTTĪ.
-
-The picturesque and singular group of Bengalī temples that now open on
-our view are at Panhuttī—a spot well known to the English as the Grove;
-it is about half way between Calcutta and Barrackpore.
-
-The Budjerow which is coming down the stream is apparently tenanted by a
-European gentleman; his _khidmutgar_ (a servant who waits at table) is
-in the forepart of the vessel, and the cook-boat is astern—the sails of
-the latter in the torn and worn-out state in which they are so
-continually seen.
-
-
- THE WELL, AND PALM TREES.
-
-The bamboo stage is erected for the purpose of watering the land. The
-river water is collected in a deep pool, between two brick walls, across
-which a small stage is fixed, on which a man stands, and his business is
-to empty the leathern skin which comes up full of water into the
-reservoir above, prepared for its reception. A long bamboo, with a large
-weight of earth attached to it at one end, is poised on a stage above,
-on which a native stands and causes the end towards the river to sink by
-the weight of his foot; when the skin below, which is attached to a thin
-bamboo from above, is filled with water, he removes his foot, which
-causes the water-bag to rise to the height of the reservoir, when the
-man below empties it and lets it fall again. In some parts, instead of a
-skin, a basket is used, which is rendered waterproof inside by a coating
-of clay and mud. Water is thus conveyed to a very great distance from
-the banks of a river. The fields in India are irrigated with as much
-care as is bestowed upon a garden, and three harvests are often
-obtained.
-
-The Bengalī _jantŭ_ for watering the land happily illustrates this
-passage of Scripture, “Where thou sowedst thy seed, and wateredst it
-with thy foot, as a garden of herbs.” (Deut. xi. 10.)
-
-The palm trees next to the well are remarkably beautiful; they are
-portraits. The one displaying the broad leaves is the fan-palm, from
-which the large _pankhas_ are made—one leaf alone forms the _pankha_, or
-fan, of which three specimens are to be seen in the Museum.
-
-
- THE RATHJATTRA.
-
-The scene represents the _Rathjattra_, or festival of the chariot, as it
-took place near Serampore, on the right bank of the Hoogly; and in this
-manner the ceremonies are performed in innumerable towns and villages in
-Hindostān; but the place most celebrated for this worship is the Temple
-of Jaganāth, in Orissa. In the scene representing a _nāch_, in the house
-of a Bengalī _bābū_, you beheld the figure of “Krishnŭ the Beloved”
-playing on a flute, standing by the side of the goddess Dūrga. At the
-_Rathjattra_, Krishnŭ is worshipped as _Jaganāth_ or lord of the
-universe. In some period of Hindū history he was accidentally killed by
-a hunter, who left the body to rot under a tree where it fell. Some
-pious person, however, collected the bones of Krishnŭ, and placed them
-in a box, where they remained: a king who was performing religious
-austerities, to obtain some favour of Vishnū, was directed by the latter
-to form the image of Jaganāth and put inside these bones of Krishnŭ, by
-which means he should obtain the fruit of his religious austerities. The
-king inquired who should make this image, and was commanded to pray to
-Vishnŭ-Kŭrmŭ, the architect of the gods. He did so, and obtained his
-request; but the architect at the same time declared, that if any one
-disturbed him while preparing the image, he would leave it in an
-unfinished state. He then began, and in one night built a temple upon
-the blue mountain in Orissa, and proceeded to prepare the image in the
-temple; but the impatient king, after waiting fifteen days, went to the
-spot; on which the architect of the gods desisted from his work, and
-left the image without hands or feet. The king was very much
-disconcerted; but on praying to Brŭmha, he promised to make the image
-famous in its present shape. The king now invited all the gods to be
-present at the setting up of this image: Brŭmha himself acted as high
-priest, and gave eyes and soul to the god, which completely established
-the fame of Jaganāth. In the Museum is a small fac-simile of this god,
-which was brought from Pooree, in Orissa; and at its side is the seal
-with which the Brahmans stamp the worshippers on the breast and arms,
-and also a figure in black marble of Krishnŭ, highly ornamented. The
-height of the _ruth_, or chariot, is forty-two feet, supported on
-sixteen wheels, and the horses in front are of wood. Ropes are attached
-to the bars below; and the car, with the monstrous idol within it, is
-drawn by thousands of frantic devotees. Looking out from the top is seen
-the head of Jaganāth. The Brahmans adorn him during the festivals with
-silver or golden hands—an offering of a pair of golden ones is
-considered an act of great devotion.
-
-One of the Hindū poets, in answer to the question, “Why has Vishnŭ
-assumed a wooden shape?” (alluding to the image of Jaganāth) says, “The
-troubles of his family have turned Vishnŭ into wood: in the first place,
-he has two wives, one of whom (the goddess of learning) is constantly
-talking, and the other (the goddess of prosperity) never remains in one
-place: to increase his troubles, he sits on a snake, his dwelling is in
-the water, and he rides on a bird.” All the Hindūs acknowledge it is a
-great misfortune for a man to have two wives, especially if both live in
-one house.
-
-After many ceremonies have been performed, the god is drawn forth in his
-car, and at the expiration of eight days he is conveyed back to the
-place whence he came. The natives dance before the car, and the
-procession is accompanied with drums, tom-toms, horns, and all sorts of
-discordant native music.
-
-Dancing is considered a religious ceremony among the Hindūs. The
-Brahmans consider it an act of devotion to the god.
-
-
- WATER CARRIERS.
-
-The natives of India carry water long distances in a couple of leathern
-bags prepared for the purpose and hung across a bullock; the _behishtī_,
-or water-carrier, by the side of the stream, is filling the skins from
-his _mashk_, or water-bag, and another man is bringing up his leathern
-bag for the same purpose.
-
-An Hindū girl is taking down a large net to the fisherman in the river,
-where he has just spread his own net. On the top of his head a small
-basket is fixed, into which he puts whatever he may catch; and floating
-on the water, attached to his waist by a long string, is a _gharā_, an
-earthen vessel, also used as a depository for the fish.
-
-The _oolāk_ is floating timber to Calcutta, secured to her by ropes over
-the side. She is ornamented by a border of impressions of the human hand
-in white paint on the side of the stern, and has also an eye painted on
-each side of her bows; which the Hindūs, like the Chinese, consider
-necessary, to enable the spirit of the vessel to see its way upon the
-waters.
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
- BARRACKPORE.
-
-We now cross the Hoogly to Barrackpore, called by the natives
-_Achánuck_, corrupted from Charnock, the founder of Calcutta, who lived
-here. In the park is the country-house of the Governor-General; and the
-military cantonment affords accommodation to six regiments of native
-infantry. There is nothing remarkable about the Government House; it is
-a plain edifice of one story in height, with lofty rooms; the aviary,
-the menagerie, the garden, and a pleasant promenade, where the society
-of the station assemble, are the most attractive features of the place.
-The regiments here, with the Artillery at Dum-Dum (seven miles from
-Calcutta), and the troops in Fort William, constitute the presidency
-division of the army, which is commanded by a general officer, who
-resides at Barrackpore.
-
-The Governor-General having come up the river in his yacht, the
-_Sona-makhī_, towed by a steamer, is represented as quitting the vessel
-to land at Barrackpore. The troops are drawn out awaiting his arrival;
-the elephants are ready to convey him to the house; the aid-de-camps are
-in attendance; and each of their horses is held by a _sāīs_, or groom,
-who carries in his hand a _chaurī_, to keep flies from the animal.
-
-In the back-ground is a _shutur-sawār_, a man armed, and mounted on a
-camel, for the purpose of carrying messages express. This animal, of a
-much lighter description than the camel of burthen, can trot exceedingly
-fast, and will go from sixty to eighty miles a day, without distress:
-the pace is very rough, and the riders are not considered long lived.
-The camel’s neck is ornamented with small brass bells—a common appendage
-to couriers in many countries: it is also adorned with blue beads,
-cowrie shells, and gaily-coloured cloth and tassels: a small piece of
-wood is inserted in the animal’s nostrils, to which is attached a thin
-cord, by which it is guided.
-
-The Mausoleum in the Park, of the Corinthian order, to the left of the
-Government House, was erected by Lord Minto, at his own cost, to
-commemorate the names of the officers who fell at Java and the
-Mauritius.
-
-
- THE TRAVELLER’S PALM.
-
-Some cows and a buffalo are beneath a _pīpal_ tree in the park. On the
-bank is the _sarput_, or _sirkī_, high jungle-grass that often rises to
-the height of sixteen feet; the bloom waves gracefully, bending to the
-wind, and elegantly recovers its position.
-
-The next is the castor-oil plant (ricinus communis), much cultivated in
-Bengal; the oil extracted from the seeds being used medicinally, as well
-as for burning in lamps.
-
-The tree with the broad and singular leaves is called the Traveller’s
-Palm: if a knife is stuck into the stem a pure water gushes out. It
-grows in the most sandy tracts where no water is to be found; hence it
-is called the Traveller’s Palm. Dr. Wallich mentioned this circumstance,
-and at the same time he struck his knife into the tree, of which the one
-before you is a portrait.
-
-The cart is the common _hackerī_ of the country, and the natives
-belonging to it are asleep beneath it; a _chadda_, or cloth, is drawn
-over their heads to protect them from the musquitoes, and their slippers
-are laid on one side.
-
-The Muhammadan Fakīr, a religious mendicant, in front of the group, is a
-picturesque personage; he wanders over the country, and supports himself
-on alms.
-
-
- PLASSEY.
-
-The high walls of the Nawāb’s hunting-house at Plassey are now before
-you, and we cannot but regard the spot with feelings of the deepest
-interest, as it is the house in which Colonel, afterwards Lord Clive
-rested for a short time during the engagement. The famous battle of
-Plassey, which may be said to have decided the fate of India, was fought
-on the 23rd June, 1757, on the plains of Plassey, about thirty miles
-south of Moorshedabad; near the spot selected for the Nawāb
-Sooraj-oo-Dowlah’s entrenched camp, the river at that period made a
-remarkable bend, in shape like a horse-shoe. In a mango _top_, or grove,
-a little more than a mile from the enemy, Colonel Clive had taken up his
-position: the trees were planted in regular rows, as is usual in the
-country, and all around the _top_ was a bank of earth, which afforded a
-good breast-work for the troops, and also a ditch beyond. One detachment
-was stationed at Plassey House, which was made use of by Colonel Clive
-during the conflict. About eight o’clock A.M. the battle commenced; and
-at eleven, Colonel Clive held a conference with his officers at the
-drum-head, when it was decided to maintain the cannonade during the day,
-and at midnight to make an attack on the Nawāb’s camp. The fate of
-Sooraj-oo-Dowlah was sealed by his flight towards the capital, mounted
-on a fleet _sawārī_ camel, accompanied by about 2000 horsemen. By five
-o’clock the English had taken possession of the whole intrenchment and
-camp, with no other obstacle than was presented by the enormous mass of
-baggage, stores, camp-equipage, and cattle, scattered around them.
-
-The lofty stage of bamboos in the field is erected sufficiently high to
-be a refuge from wild beasts; it is thatched, and the native farmer
-places a servant there to keep watch, especially during the night, at
-the time the corn is nearly ripe. When a buffalo, or wild hog, comes
-into the field, the keeper takes a wisp of lighted straw in one hand,
-and in the other a dried skin containing broken bricks, pots, &c., bound
-up on all sides; and in this manner he approaches the animal, shaking
-his lighted straw and making a loud noise, on which it immediately runs
-away. “The boar out of the wood doth waste it, and the wild beast of the
-field doth devour it.” (Psalm lxxx. 13.) The wild hogs and buffaloes
-make great havoc in the fields of the Hindūs.
-
-Below the stage is a domestic buffalo and a group of Bengalī cows. The
-buffalo is a very useful beast of burthen, yields a rich but strong
-milk, which is generally made into _ghī_ (clarified butter). This animal
-has no hump—a fact not universally known by those who have not visited
-India; on the contrary, the buffalo is generally supposed to have the
-hump. Those sold under the denomination of buffalo humps are from the
-common bull or cow of Hindostan.
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
- THE ELEPHANT ESTABLISHMENT.
-
-Not far distant from Plassey is the Company’s _Fīl-khana_, or Elephant
-establishment, whence the animals are coming down to the side of the
-river. One of the elephants in the distance is raising his _mahout_, or
-driver, with his trunk, to enable him to gain his seat on his neck:
-another is drinking, taking up the water with his proboscis and pouring
-it into his own mouth; a third is lying in the river enjoying the
-coolness, whilst his attendants are scrubbing and cleaning him.
-
-A group of natives, attendants on the elephants, are sitting round a
-fire, baking the large cakes that form the repast of these animals,
-added to a small dinner of half a _pīpul-tree_, or a hundred-weight of
-grass! A _mahout_, or driver, is very fond of whispering to his elephant
-some superstitious tale; which, if the animal does not understand, it is
-amongst the few things this most wonderful of God’s creatures does not
-comprehend.
-
-
- MOSQUE NEAR MOORSHEDABAD.
-
-A beautiful _Masjid_, or Mosque (a Muhammadan place of worship), which
-is on the bank forms a picturesque object; beyond which is a _ghāt_ and
-some houses, near Moorshedabad, as also a long range of buildings,
-belonging to the palace of the Nawāb.
-
-
- MOORSHEDABAD—THE PALACE.
-
-Moorshedabad became the seat of the Bengal Government A.D. 1704. It was
-transferred to this place from Dacca, by the Nawāb Jaffier Khan, who was
-appointed Soubadar of Bengal by Aurungzebe. The City of Moorshedabad
-continued to be the seat of the British Government until A.D. 1771, when
-it was transferred to Calcutta. During the reign of Aliverdi Khan, a
-palace was erected at Moorshedabad, which was ornamented with pillars of
-black marble, brought from the ruins of Gour; this building is still in
-existence. The new palace of the Nawāb erected by the government, is a
-magnificent edifice, and reflects the highest honour on the architect,
-General Macleod, C.B.: it was commenced in the time of Humaioon Jah, the
-late _nizām_, who died in 1838, and was succeeded by his son, the
-present Nawāb. This splendid building, which is in the European style,
-and of dazzling whiteness, is a beautiful object from the river, of
-which it commands a fine prospect, rendered peculiarly interesting by
-the variety and elegance of the native vessels, so numerous at this
-station.
-
-The _Mor-pankhī_, as the Nawāb’s state-barge is called, is used during
-certain festivals at Moorshedabad: boats of this description are
-numerous, and of different forms, some towering very high, displaying
-all the colours of the peacock, and all are brilliantly painted and
-highly gilt. A band of native musicians follow the state-barge in
-another tastefully-decorated boat, and the scene on the river during the
-festival is highly picturesque.
-
-Here also are seen the snake-boats: they shoot past you with great
-swiftness when rowed by twenty men, from their amazing length and
-extreme narrowness.
-
-Through the influence of Mr. Hamilton, surgeon to the Embassy sent by
-the local government to the Emperor Furrookhseer, in the year 1713, the
-use of the Mint at Moorshedabad was placed at the disposal of the
-Government of India.
-
-The great object of dread to the Nawāb Sooraj-oo-Dowlah, in 1757, was
-the fire of the English vessels of war, of the effects of whose
-broadsides he had received exaggerated accounts; and, in the excess of
-his timidity, he conceived it possible that they might proceed up the
-great branch of the Ganges, and then come down the Kossimbazar river to
-Moorshedabad; to guard against which, he caused large piles to be sunk
-across that stream, opposite to Sooty, about twenty miles above the
-city. A toll is now levied at Jungipūr for keeping open the entrance of
-the Bhagirathī, as this branch of the Ganges is called.
-
-
- THE WRECK.
-
-The scene now opens on the right bank of the Ganges. We quitted the
-Bhagruttī (a branch of the sacred river) at Sooty, and have now entered
-upon the main stream, at a point where it is of amazing breadth, the
-view of it only terminating with the horizon: the waves roar, and roll,
-and foam like those at sea; whilst a _tūfān_ (one of the heavy storms of
-India) is blowing fiercely, accompanied by thunder, lightning, heavy
-rain, and utter darkness. The impetuous stream, rushing with the force
-of a torrent, undermines the banks of the river, and tears up forest
-trees by their roots. A voyage at this time is particularly dangerous;
-native vessels are swept along with amazing velocity, and when a _tūfān_
-is encountered, like the one now blowing, they are frequently wrecked.
-
-Three _dāndīs_ (native boatmen) have been swept by the violence of the
-waves from the mast of their sinking vessel; they are striving to regain
-their hold: the rest of the crew have sunk to rise no more. These men
-are admirable swimmers; they may possibly be carried along by the
-current and rescued on some turn of the river, unless from the violence
-of the storm they are carried out into the middle of the stream, and
-swept onwards, until, overcome by exhaustion, they sink beneath the
-waves.
-
-During some periods of the year, a voyage on the Ganges is attended with
-great risk. The natives quote the Persian saying as a consolation under
-misfortune, “‘What is the use of taking precautions, since what has been
-ordained must happen.’ Truly saith the proverb, ‘If the diver were to
-think of the jaws of the crocodile, he would never gather precious
-pearls.’”
-
-
- A TŪFĀN.
-
-The Budjerow is taking in her sails; and the _sahib_, or gentleman on
-board, is likely to go without his dinner, as his cook-boat, with her
-torn sails, will most likely be unable to come alongside, and hand it
-over to the servants.
-
-A voyage up the Ganges may be performed in boats, as various in shape as
-in size: a Pinnace is a first-class vessel; the next is a Budjerow,
-which draws very little water, and is divided into two commodious rooms,
-which may be furnished according to the taste of the traveller: a
-complete establishment consists of a horse-boat, a washerman’s-boat, and
-a cook-boat; in this country the cooking is always performed in a
-separate vessel.
-
-The _dinghī_, or wherry, now making for the land, is generally manned by
-two rowers and a steersman: these boats are of slight construction, with
-a circular awning of bamboo-work and matting, under which a person can
-sit, and though in general well managed, are by no means to be
-considered safe conveyances.
-
-
- RAJMAHAL.
-
-The ruins of the palace of Rajmahal are on the bank. During the reign of
-Akbar, about 1591, Raja Maun Singh fixed upon this city as the capital
-of Bengal, and changed its name to Raja-Mahul—the Raja erected the
-palace, and surrounded the town with a rampart of brick and other
-fortifications. In 1608, the seat of government was removed hence to
-Dacca, by Islam Khan; but in 1639, the Sultan Shah Shuja brought it back
-again, and strengthened the fortifications, of which, however, few
-traces are now to be seen.
-
-Prior to 1638 this town was the residence of the Sultan Shah Shuja, the
-brother of Aurunzebe; but few vestiges of its ancient magnificence now
-remain. The ruins of his palace are still standing, but have been much
-injured by the encroachments of the Ganges. Cows now ruminate quietly
-beneath the black marble arches that overlook the river, or seek for
-shelter in its empty halls, which still present images of their former
-grandeur. The marble floor of the Mosque remains, and a fine old _bāolī_
-(a large well). Around Rajmahal is a beautiful _jangal_ of magnificent
-bamboos, fine clumps interspersed with date-palm trees overshadowing the
-cottages, around which are a number of small cows and fowls of a
-remarkably good breed: every thing has an air of comfort, and the walks
-in all directions are cool and pleasant. The steamers from Calcutta take
-in their coal a mile below, and therefore do not destroy the beauty of
-the old ruins with their smoke, and noise, and Birmingham appearance.
-The Rajmahal hills are distant about five miles inland.
-
-Sooraj-oo-Dowlah, after his flight from Plassey, reached Rajmahal, and
-took shelter in the buildings of a deserted garden, where he was
-discovered by a _Fakīr_ named Dana Shah, whose nose and ears he had
-ordered to be cut off thirteen months before. This man recognized him,
-made the circumstance known, and the Nawāb was carried a prisoner back
-to Moorshedabad, where he was murdered by order of Meerun, the son of
-the new Nawāb Meer Jaffier Khan. His mangled remains were placed on an
-elephant, exposed throughout the city, and finally interred. Thus
-perished Sooraj-oo-Dowlah, in the twentieth year of his age, and the
-fifteenth month of his reign; a prince whose short career was connected
-in a most important manner with the British interests in India, both for
-good and evil.
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
- SĪCKRĪ-GALĪ.
-
-A country vessel is being towed by her crew round a rocky point; each
-man has his own _gūn_, or track-rope, fastened to a short, thick piece
-of bamboo, which he carries over his shoulder. A Pinnace, or budjerow,
-tracks, with ten or twelve men, upon one rope only.
-
-The Sīckrī-galī pass, during the Hindū and Muhammadan Governments, was
-the commanding entrance from Bahar into Bengal, and was fortified with a
-strong wall; however, in 1742, a Mahratta army of cavalry passed into
-Bengal through the hills above Colgong. The village of Sīckrī-galī is
-eighteen miles above Rajmahal at the base of a high rocky eminence,
-commanding a fine view of two ranges of hills. There is here the tomb of
-a celebrated Muhammadan Saint, Pīr Pointī, and a cave in limestone rock;
-and higher up, at a place called Pīr Pointī, now a mass of ruins, is
-another tomb of the saint.
-
-This pass is close upon the Rajmahal hills, and the only European
-inhabitant lives in the _Bangla_, commonly called Bungalow, the house at
-the foot of the hill. Wild beasts sometimes come to this place at night,
-and the footmarks of the tiger are often to be seen in the garden.
-Jackals roam howling through the village; bears, tigers, rhinoceroses,
-leopards, hogs, deer of all kinds, abound here, and feathered game in
-the hills. Elephants are absolutely necessary to enable a man to enjoy
-shooting amidst the high grass and thorny thickets. The place is so much
-disturbed by the people who go into the hills for wood, that the game
-retreat farther into the _jangal_. When a gentleman goes out shooting on
-foot, the _dandīs_ accompany him with long poles, to beat the bushes. In
-the marshy plains under the hills of this pass good shooting is to be
-found, but on account of tigers it is dangerous.
-
-
- THE RAJMAHAL HILLS.
-
-Beyond the heavy rain which is pouring down, the hills of Rajmahal are
-seen in the distance; they are beautifully wooded, and full of game of
-every description. No scenes can be more picturesque than those in the
-interior. The wild climbers hang from the forest trees in luxuriant
-beauty, especially that magnificent one, the _cachnar_ (bauhinia
-scandens)—a specimen of its leaves gathered in these hills is in the
-Museum.
-
-The _dandīs_ from the boats that anchor at Sīckrī-galī go up the hills
-in gangs to cut wood for firing, and bring it down in great quantities.
-
-The _byā_ birds hang their long nests from the extreme end of the slight
-branches of the delicate _bābul_-tree pendant over a pool or stream for
-security. The Museum also contains nests of this little bird suspended
-on the broad leaf of the fan-palm. The fable declares that the “Old
-birds put a fire-fly into their nests every night to act as a lamp.” For
-a further account of these interesting little creatures, see “Wanderings
-of a Pilgrim,” (vol. I. 220, 221, and vol. II. 74). The marshes at the
-foot of the hills are full of leeches the low-lands abound with wild
-fowl, hares, and partridges of a peculiar sort, said to be found only at
-Rajmahal, and one other station in India.
-
-The hill-men are a most singular race of people; they are about five
-feet high, very active, remarkable for lightness and suppleness of limb,
-with the piercing and restless eye, said to be peculiar to savages. They
-wear their hair drawn tight up in a knot on the very top of their head,
-the ends fastened in with a wooden comb. They are good-natured,
-gay-looking people. Their principal food is Indian corn, boiled and
-mashed. They kill wild hogs with a poisoned arrow, taking the precaution
-to cut out the flesh around the wound before they eat the animal. Their
-bows and arrows are rough and wild-looking; the strips of feather on the
-latter are from the wing of the vulture. They assert that they procure
-the poison, into which they dip their arrows, from a remote hill-tribe,
-and are ignorant of its nature: it appears to be a carefully guarded
-secret. Three of these arrows are in the Museum. At the proper season
-the hill-men descend into the plains to gather in the crops of uncut
-rice.
-
-A country boat filled with bales of cotton is floating down the stream;
-and the crew of a Dacca _oolāk_, which is aground, are striving to shove
-her into deeper water.
-
-A native, sitting on the bank, is quietly watching the noisy scene, and
-smoking his _nāriyal_, or cocoa-nut pipe, by the side of his _charpāī_,
-or bed, which is on the bank. Native vessels are towed by the _dāndīs_,
-or boatmen, most part of the way, except during the rains. These men
-work from daylight till sunset in the most laborious way, frequently in
-the water for hours, up to their middles, towing the vessel or shoving
-it with their backs over sand banks: their labour does not cease until
-the boats are _lugāo’d_ (moored) at night; then they cook on shore and
-eat their daily meal of boiled rice and curry, or flour cakes, called
-_chappatīs_. Occasionally, when a fair wind blows, they get some rest;
-for then an immense square sail is hoisted, tacks, sheets, and
-haul-yards are fast belayed: they all go to sleep except the steersman,
-and the safety of the boat depends upon the rotten state of the cordage
-and sails: frequently very strong and sudden squalls come on, and,
-before a single rope is let go, every thing is blown to ribbons.
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
- THE FOOLISH FAKĪR.
-
-Beneath a group of beautiful palm-trees, a half-witted young _Fakīr_,
-adorned with peacocks’ feathers, is sitting and talking to the men
-around him, who regard as prophetic whatever his wandering and unsettled
-mind induces him to utter, and look upon him as the favourite of
-heaven—the natives treat persons thus afflicted with the greatest
-kindness, and supply them with food. A leaf of the fan palm, here
-represented, may be seen in the Museum. The whole group, as well as the
-trees, are portraits.
-
-On the sands below and close to the edge of the river, is an Hindū in
-the last stage of illness. His friends have carried him down to the
-sacred stream on a _charpāī_, (a rude native bed,) and are in the act of
-making him drink the Ganges water, ere they half immerse his body in the
-sacred stream. His wife, on the edge of the bed, is weeping, and her
-_dopatta_ (or veil), is drawn over her face; the Brahman is offering the
-prayers usual on this occasion.
-
-The Hindūs are extremely anxious to die in sight of the Ganges, that
-their sins may be washed away in their last moments. A person in his
-last agonies is frequently carried on his bed, by his friends or
-relatives, in the coldest or in the hottest weather, from whatever
-distance, to the river-side, where he lies, if a poor man, without a
-covering day and night, until he expires. With the pains of death upon
-him, he is placed up to the middle in water and drenched with it; leaves
-of the shrub goddess, the sacred _tulsī_ plant, are also put into his
-mouth, the marks on the pebble god, the _Salagram_ are shown to him, and
-his relations call upon him to repeat, and repeat for him, the names of
-Rām, Hurī, Ganga, &c. In some cases the family priest repeats some
-prayers, and makes an offering to Voitŭrŭnēē, the river over which, they
-say, the soul is ferried, after leaving the body. The relations of the
-dying man spread the sediment of the river on his forehead and breast,
-and afterwards with the finger write on this sediment the name of some
-deity. If a person should die in his house, and not by the river-side,
-it is considered as a great misfortune, as he thereby loses the help of
-the goddess in his last moments. If a person choose to die at home, his
-memory becomes infamous.
-
-If these unfortunate people recover, after having been exposed by their
-relatives to die on the banks of the river, they take refuge in the
-village of Chagdah on the left bank of the Matabangah, forty-six miles
-from Calcutta, of which people who ought to be _corpses_, are the sole
-inhabitants. They are considered to prefer a debased existence to a
-righteous end, agreeing therein with the highest authorities. Pope’s
-Homer makes Achilles in the Elysian fields say:—
-
- “Rather I’d choose laboriously to bear
- A weight of woes, and breathe the vital air,
- A slave to some poor hind that toils for bread,
- Than reign the scepter’d monarch of the dead.”
-
-Solomon deems it better to be a live dog than a dead lion; and Job,
-called by Byron “the Respectable,” says, “Why should a living man
-complain?” to which Byron adds, “For no other reason that I can see,
-except that a dead man cannot.” In the face of these grave authorities
-the Hindostanī proverb is of a different opinion, which asserts “it is
-better to die with honour, than live with infamy.”
-
-The passage in the Psalms, “They shall be a portion for foxes,” appears
-obscure; but give it the probable rendering, “they shall be a portion
-for jackals;” and then the anathema becomes plain and striking to an
-Hindū, in whose country the disgusting sight of jackals, devouring human
-bodies, may be seen every day. The dying who are left by the side of the
-Ganges, are sometimes devoured alive by these animals in the night.
-
-_Lugāo’d_, or moored off a sand-bank, is a budjerow, her baggage, and
-her cook-boat. The crews are cooking and eating their dinners on the
-sand-bank, and will not recommence their voyage until daybreak, the
-river being too dangerous to allow of their proceeding further during
-the hours of darkness. On a clean dry bank in the centre of the Ganges,
-covered with the finest and most sparkling sand, it is far more
-agreeable to _lugāo_ your vessel for the night, than on the banks of the
-river: it is cooler, and you are better defended against thieves;
-nevertheless a look-out must be kept during the night.
-
-“Shall be likened unto a foolish man, which built his house upon the
-sand,” &c., (Matt. vii. 26.) The fishermen in Bengal build their huts in
-the dry season on the beds of sand, from which the river has retired.
-When the rains set in, which they often do very suddenly, accompanied
-with violent north-west winds, and the waters pour down in torrents from
-the mountains, a fine illustration is given of our Lord’s parable: “the
-rains descended, the floods came, and the winds blew, and beat upon that
-house, and it fell.” In one night multitudes of these huts are
-frequently swept away, and the place where they stood is, the next
-morning, undiscoverable. On one of these occasions a Hindū child was
-carried down the stream, seated on a part of the roof of a hut, and
-rescued from destruction at Allahabad. The child could not tell whence
-she had been carried away by the force of the torrent, nor could the
-little creature remember the names of her parents.
-
-In some parts of Bengal, whole villages are every now and then swept
-away by the Ganges when it changes its course. This river frequently
-runs over districts, from which, a few years before, it was several
-miles distant. “A nation whose land the rivers have spoiled.” (Isa.
-xvii. 2.)
-
-The rocky islands of Colgong in the distance are singular and beautiful,
-there are four of them, of unequal size. Rocks on rocks, covered with
-fine foliage, they rise in the centre of the river which runs like a
-mill-sluice, and is extremely broad. They say that no one lives upon
-these rocks; that a _Fakīr_ formerly took up his abode there, but having
-been eaten by a snake (an _ajgar_), one of enormous size, and an eater
-of human flesh, the people became alarmed; and no holy or unholy person
-has since taken up their residence on these rocky islands. Small boats
-fish under the rocks, and snakes, they say, abound upon them: when a gun
-is fired the echoes awaken and startle the myriads of birds that inhabit
-them. The proverb says, “The hypocrites of Bhagulpur, the _Thags_ of
-Kuhulgaon (Colgong), and the bankrupts of Patna are famous.”
-
-
- SUNSET—A WILD SCENE.
-
-The Ganges now presents an extraordinary picture, the expanse of water
-is very great, interspersed with low sand-banks; the sun is going down,
-and flocks of wild geese are passing to the other side the river. No
-human habitations are to be seen, nothing but the expanse of the broad
-river and its distant banks. After the heat of a day in India the
-coolness of the evening is most refreshing: the traveller quits his
-boats, and wanders on the banks of the Ganges, enjoying the wild, the
-strange beauty, and the quietude of the scene around him, until his
-attention is aroused by the yells of jackals, and the savage cry of
-pariah dogs, contesting with vultures, who shriek and flap their heavy
-wings, to scare the animals from their feast on some dead bullock.
-Beasts of the forest and birds of prey
-
- “Hold o’er the dead their carnival:
- Gorging and growling o’er carcase and limb,
- They are too busy to look at him!”
-
-they eye the traveller askance: they are too busy to look at him: but
-when the shades of evening fall, and the friends have left the dead, it
-may be the dying Hindū, on the banks of the river, trusting, that Ganga
-will receive him to eternal beatitude, then, in that solitary, that
-awful hour, the dying man may be awakened from his trance by the sharp
-tooth of the jackal, and the fierce beak of the vulture! Such is the
-power of superstition, that the Hindū might rejoice, even at this
-fearful moment, to end his days by the side of the sacred river, and
-escape the infamy of seeking refuge at the village of Chagdah.
-
- “On Ganga’s brink it is fearful to tread
- By the fest’ring side of the tombless dead,
- And see worms of the earth, and fowls of the air,
- Beasts of the forest all gathering there;
- All regarding man as their prey,
- All rejoicing in his decay.”
-
-“Wheresoever the body is, thither will the eagles (or rather the
-vultures) be gathered together.” (Luke xvii. 37.) The vulture is equally
-ravenous after dead bodies as the jackal; and it is very remarkable how
-suddenly these birds appear after the death of an animal in the open
-field, though a single one may not have been seen on the spot a long
-time before.
-
-The jackal is considered an incarnation of Dūrga, when she carried the
-child Krishna over the Jumna, in his flight from King Kansa. The
-worshippers of the female deities adore the jackal as a form of this
-goddess, and present offerings to him daily. Every worshipper lays the
-offering on a clean place in his house, and calls the god to come and
-partake of it. As this is done at the hour when jackals leave their
-lurking places, one of these animals sometimes comes and eats the food.
-In temples dedicated to Dūrga and other deities, a stone image of the
-jackal is placed on a pedestal and daily worshipped. When a Hindū passes
-a jackal, he must bow to it; and if it passes on the left hand, it is a
-most lucky circumstance.
-
-Crocodiles are very numerous in this part of the Ganges: they show
-themselves continually, swimming low in the water, peering over the edge
-of a sand-bank, or basking in the sun upon it. Near this place is a
-village full of a caste of people who live on the flesh of the
-crocodile; the _dāndīs_ say they understand it smells rank and is very
-hard. In the evening you sometimes hear a shrill peculiar scream, which
-the men declare is the cry of the crocodile. When fired at, they slink
-quietly into the water. The long-nosed crocodile is not so formidable as
-the snub-nosed alligator: it is said the latter will attack men, the
-former avoids them if possible. Human bones and ornaments are sometimes
-found in the interior of these animals. To disagree with a superior,
-under whose command you may be, is, the natives assert, “To live in the
-river and be at enmity with the crocodile.”
-
-
- BENARES—RAJ GHĀT.
-
-The appearance of Benares, from the Ganges, is very beautiful. It is
-covered with buildings to the water’s edge: the architecture of some is
-Hindū, of others Muhammadan; many of them are of imposing appearance and
-great picturesque beauty. The magnificent flights of steps called
-_Ghāts_, which descend deep into the river, are thronged at all times
-with people; some fetching water, others washing, and most performing
-their ablutions in the sacred stream. The view is surprisingly
-picturesque, and so singular, that no city in Europe can convey an idea
-of Benares.
-
-For a detailed account of Benares or _Bunarus_, deriving its name from
-two streams, the Burna and the Ussee, you may refer to a beautiful work
-by the late James Prinsep, Esq., who states that the ancient
-denomination of this city was _Kashi_, “The splendid,” whereof the
-fabulous wonders are fully detailed in the _Kashi-Khund_, one of the
-chapters of the _Skundu-Poorana_. According to this mythological
-history, Kashi is a place of most profound antiquity, sanctity, and
-splendour: it has survived in age a hundred lives of Brahma, each of
-whose days is equal to 4,320,000,000 of years; it stands raised from the
-ground, supported upon the _trisūl_ or trident of Mahadēo, and is never
-shaken by earthquakes: the whole city was once of pure gold, but has
-since degenerated into stone and brick.
-
-Bunarus (Sanscrit, _Bàrànusee_) quasi _Burna-Ussee_, or from Raja Bunar,
-who founded the town A.D. 1000. It contains about 600,000
-souls—one-fourth Musalmans. The city stands on a high ridge of _kankar_
-(nodules of lime stone), free from the floods which sometimes cover all
-its suburbs. The houses are of stone, from two to six stories high, with
-terraces on the summit, and open interior courts. The streets are very
-narrow, from four and a half to nine feet wide, with low doors on each
-side. The trade is in sugar, cotton, indigo, opium, _kimkhwab_, jewels,
-&c.
-
-No building in the town now standing can be traced to a higher antiquity
-than the time of Man Singh, who was Rāja of Jypoor in the reign of
-Akbar. Both the temple and the _man mundil_, or observatory, described
-by Tavernier, were erected by him. The astronomical instruments were not
-added until the time of Jy Singh, 1680, more than a century later.
-
-The scene now before you on the left bank of the Ganges represents the
-holy city commencing from Raj Ghāt, the place at which the steamers from
-Calcutta are moored, as well as pinnaces and budjerows. The distance
-from the latter place via the Bhagirathī is 696 miles, and by land or
-_dāk_, 428. The civil and military station is about four miles inland.
-Native merchants bring goods of all descriptions for sale to the
-steamers and vessels anchored off this ghāt; jewellery, shawls,
-portraits of the natives, &c. Provisions of all sorts, with wine and
-beer, are procurable in the city.
-
-The house situated above Raj Ghāt is the hotel that was so recently
-destroyed, when the fleet of magazine boats containing gunpowder was
-blown up, the vessels having been moored off this ghāt.
-
-Bruhma Ghāt is ancient, and of irregular form; it derives its name from
-a temple of Siva, under the title of Brumeswur, “the Lord of Brumha.”
-The temple and ghāt were repaired (perhaps built) 200 years ago, by the
-Marhattas, and again recently by the ex-Peshwa Baji Rāo. From the number
-of Marhatta families residing in the neighbourhood, and the comparative
-privacy of the spot, it is by courtesy set apart as a bathing-place for
-their women. They resort hither in groups, with their children and
-female servants. Their wet garments are shifted with dexterity under a
-large wrapper, which is also worn over their silk dresses, in passing
-through the streets. The Brahman of the ghāt is of course a privileged
-person; he receives a small gratuity for taking care of the clothes, and
-brass or silver water vessels; he also affixes the _tiluk_ (frontal
-mark) and pronounces the _muntra_ or morning benediction upon his
-spiritual daughters.
-
-On this ghāt wood is collected in large piles for sale: “Our wood is
-sold to us.” (Lamentations v. 4.) The poor Hindū, living in the country
-never purchases wood for fuel. When such a person removes to a large
-town, he speaks of it as a great hardship, that he is obliged to buy his
-very fire-wood.
-
-Benares is considered as the most holy city of India, and it is
-certainly one of the most picturesque. “A little to eat and to live at
-Bunarus” is the wish of a pious Hindū; but a residence at this place is
-rather dangerous to any one inclined to violate the laws.
-
-“Kala-Bhoirāva the Tremendous, is a naked Siva, smeared with ashes;
-having three eyes, riding on a dog, holding in one hand a horn, and in
-another a drum. In several places in Bengal this image is daily
-worshipped. Siva, under this name, is regent of Kāshī (Bunarus). All
-persons dying at Bunarus are entitled to a place in Siva’s heaven; but
-if any one violate the laws of the shastrŭ during his residence there,
-Kalŭ-Bhoirŭvŭ after death grinds him between two millstones.”
-
-The dog carries Kalŭ-Bhoirŭvŭ, a form of Siva, and therefore receives
-the worship of many Hindūs, whenever his master is worshipped; still he
-is considered as an unclean animal: every offering which he approaches
-is considered unacceptable to the gods, and every one who touches him
-must purify himself by bathing.
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
- THE MINARETS.
-
-The Madhoray Ghāt and _musjid_ or mosque, are now before you—the mosque
-was erected by Aurunzebe, on the site and with the materials of the
-temple of Vishnū. The mosque has little architectural beauty to boast
-of, but the _minars_ have been deservedly admired for their simplicity
-and boldness of execution. They are only eight and a half feet in
-diameter at the base, and the breadth decreases to seven and a half
-feet, while they have an altitude of 147 feet 2 inches, from the
-terraced floor of the _musjid_ to the _kalsā_ or pinnacle. The terrace
-is elevated about eighty feet above the river at low water level.
-
-The musjid and the minars were repaired by Mr. James Prinsep—a hazardous
-undertaking as regarded the latter, for they were both found to incline
-outwards fifteen inches from the perpendicular. One of them was struck
-by lightning the very day the scaffolding was removed, but it escaped
-with the displacement of a stone in the upper cornice. Several instances
-have occurred of men throwing themselves from the top of the southern
-minaret. One of them, a man who had gambled away his money and his wife
-during the _Diwâlī_:—another, a sailor, who was killed on the
-spot:—another, a _Fakīr_, who, falling through the tiles and mat-work of
-a roof, scraping the flesh from his sides, alighted on the floor
-beneath, with every bone safe. Such an escape was deemed miraculous; and
-crowds attended to minister to one so favoured by heaven. The _Fakīr_
-disappeared immediately on recovering from his bruises, and sundry solid
-moveables of his host disappeared with him.
-
-Men, women, and children bathe together, uniting the worship of the
-Ganges or of the gods with their ablutions, washing their long hair with
-mud, making clay images for _pūjā_, (worship), or pouring out libations
-to their deceased ancestors, whilst the children gambol in the water, or
-collect clay to assist in making the great image of Bhīm Singh the
-giant, which is so frequently seen on the side of a ghāt, or that of
-Hunumān the monkey god. The Hindūs pour out water to the sun, three
-times a day; and to the moon at the time of worshipping her, which
-illustrates a passage in Scripture, “To pour out drink-offerings to the
-queen of heaven.” (Jer. xliv. 17.)
-
-Ghoosla Ghāt unites great solidity with a graceful and appropriate
-elevation: the double-arched door case in front of the gate has a very
-rich effect under the strong shadows of midday, giving an artificial
-magnitude to the entrance, in just proportion to the dimensions of the
-front. The river rises above the top of the doorway, entering the
-staircase, and affording a comfortable bath within, where there are
-convenient recesses on the sides of the steps for the accommodation of
-bathers.
-
-The ferry-boat is crossing the river laden with camels, buffaloes, and
-cows.
-
-
- RAJRAJESWURREE GHĀT.
-
-On the sands in the foreground is the hut of a _Baniyā_, or grain
-merchant, from whom the _dandīs_ procure _chabenī_, the parched grain of
-Indian corn (maize), also flour for their _chappatīs_. A group of
-pilgrims are seated on one side of the hut.
-
-Rajrajeswurree Ghāt, which is seen in the distance, takes its name from
-an ancient temple of _Devī_, under the appellation of _Rajrajeswurree_
-(“queen of queens”). The title _Devī_, is usually applied to Bhawanī.
-The façade of this building is a good specimen of the mixed style of
-Hindū and Moresque architecture; the former is observable in the lower
-half of the central compartment; while the projecting stone gallery,
-with its parapet, _tukya mootukka_, and the domed octagonal _buruj_ at
-the two corners, giving relief to the rectangular pavilion in the
-centre, are seen to be essentially Moorish, from the character of the
-pillar, and scalloped arch (_mehrab_).
-
-The man in green is one of a very fine corps of men, called Gardner’s
-Horse; they were raised by the late Colonel Win. Linnæus Gardner, a most
-highly distinguished and gallant officer: they are such masters of their
-horses and weapons, that it is said, single-handed, nothing can resist
-them; and one of these men, well known in the up-country, was considered
-to be the finest horseman in India. For an account of Colonel Gardner’s
-romantic, adventurous, and distinguished life, we refer you to a work
-lately published, the “Wanderings of a Pilgrim during Four and Twenty
-Years in the East.”
-
-The two men who next appear belong to Skinner’s Horse, a most efficient
-irregular corps, taking its name from its gallant colonel, by whom it
-was raised and stationed at Delhi. Skinner’s Horse rendered important
-services in the Mahratta and Pindaree campaigns. They are well mounted
-and appointed, and are an intelligent, fine body of men: with a lance of
-great length, they are exceedingly expert, and excellent shots with the
-matchlock, a most unwieldy fire-arm.
-
-A native carriage, called a _bilī_, drawn by two bullocks, stands in the
-rear: these decorated carriages are principally used by women in the
-higher ranks of life; and within the curtains, which are closely drawn
-and fastened down, a lady is completely protected from the profane gaze
-of man.
-
-In the distance you now behold the Dusaswumed Ghāt. The mythological
-legends which give rise to the name of this ghāt and temple, are
-connected with the story of Divadas’s usurpation of Siva’s kingly
-authority in _Kashī_. Siva having sent from heaven the _yoginis_, or
-heavenly nymphs, and tried various other stratagems in vain, to turn the
-earthly monarch aside from virtue, next deputed Brumha himself, who
-entered the place, disguised as an old Brahman, and obtaining access to
-the king, received permission from him to perform ten (_dus_)
-_aswumedha_, or horse sacrifices, upon the spot here represented. The
-horse sacrifice, as described in the _purans_, is a very curious
-ceremony. A horse having peculiar colours and qualities is selected, and
-after a course of _pūja_ (worship), is turned loose upon the world,
-followed by the sacrificing party, with an armed retinue: if stopped by
-the sovereign of another country through which the animal may pass, war
-must be declared, and the interrupter of the sacrifice subdued:—in this
-way, after traversing the world, the horse returns, and is put to death
-by suffocation.
-
-
- THE SNAKE CHARMERS.
-
-The group of natives seated on the ground are a particular cast of
-Hindūs, who profess to charm serpents, to reduce them to subjection, and
-to prevent their poison from proving fatal. They roam about the country,
-carrying a boa constrictor in a basket, which they twine around their
-necks and display to the passers by. They have also a number of the
-cobra di capello, which, being placed on the ground, rear themselves up,
-and, spreading out their hoods, sway themselves about in a fashion which
-the men call dancing, accompanied by the noise of a little hand-drum.
-The snake charmers strike the reptiles with their hands, and the snakes
-bite them repeatedly on their hands as well as on their arms, bringing
-blood at every bite: although the venomous fangs have been carefully
-removed, the bite itself must be disagreeable; nevertheless the natives
-appear not to mind it in the least. At the conclusion of the _tamāshā_
-(fun), they catch the cobras and cram them all into _gharās_ (earthen
-vessels), and carry the boas off in a basket. The snake charmers remind
-us of the text, “They are like the deaf adder, that stoppeth her ear;
-which will not hearken to the voice of charmers, charming never so
-wisely.” (Psalm lviii. 4, 5.)
-
-The two men on the left are pilgrims with holy water. In the cold season
-of the year, Hindūs from all parts of Upper India, perform pilgrimages
-to the sacred places on the Ganges: although the stream throughout is
-considered holy, there are parts of peculiar sanctity, such as Hurdwar,
-Benares, Allahabad, &c. The roads swarm with devotees; they proceed in
-large groups, generally well dressed, carrying on their shoulders a
-large bamboo, supporting at each end a covered basket, containing small
-stumpy bottles of the thinnest green glass, having long necks: they are
-filled with Ganges water at the sacred places, and sealed with the seal
-of the Brahman. These people travel all over the country, selling the
-sacred water at a high price at the distant stations. Some of the
-bottles contain a quart; others are not above two inches high; they are
-of all sizes, and the price varies accordingly. The salutation of these
-people on passing is, “_Ram ram_,” or “_Bom bom Mahadēo_,”—a pilgrim of
-this class is called a _Kanwar-wālā_. The men come for this water to
-place it in their houses for religious and medicinal uses, and sometimes
-perform a journey on the occasion of five or six months; it is also used
-in the English courts of justice, in administering an oath to an Hindū.
-The frames in which the baskets are carried are decorated with feathers
-of the sacred peacock and small red flags; and every party appears to
-have one amongst them more ornamented than the rest, with a large arched
-cover, and numerous bells attached to it.
-
-A _jumna-pār_ goat, so called because these goats are bred on the other
-side the Junma, is lying on the ground—they are of enormous size, with
-very broad, long, thin, and silky ears, as soft as velvet. These animals
-are better adapted for marching than the small Bengalī goat; but unless
-they can go into the _jangal_ and browse, they become thin and lose
-their milk.
-
-On the opposite side of the river is the Jellinghy flat and her steamer,
-returning from Allahabad to Calcutta. The steamer herself is not the
-vessel in which passengers live; but attached to, and towed by her, is a
-vessel as large as the steamer herself, called a flat, built expressly
-to convey passengers and government treasure. It is divided into cabins,
-with one large cabin in the centre, in which the passengers dine
-together. The deck is covered with an awning.
-
-The view on the left of the native vessel exemplifies the structure of
-the ghāts on the water’s edge. The continuity of the line of steps is
-interrupted by hundreds of stone piers of various forms, which may be
-classed under three distinct heads: some are merely intended to give
-solidity to the masonry; others are built for the accommodation of the
-_ghātiyās_ (ghāt attendants), and _gangā-putras_ (sons of the Ganges),
-who enjoy hereditary possession of most of the ground between high and
-low water mark, and whose ancestors have resided on the spot from time
-immemorial in hereditary attendance upon pilgrims; the third sort
-consists of _mut’hs_ or small temples, erected at the expense of
-pilgrims and others: they generally have a flat roof, which serves the
-_ghātiyā_ as a _chabūtāra_ or terrace to sit and converse upon. The
-large _chatrs_, or umbrellas, so numerous on the ghāts, are fixtures, to
-protect the people from the intense heat of the sun in India.
-
-On the river’s edge are seen one or two _murhīs_—chambers into which the
-sick are removed when at the point of death, that their sins, to the
-last moment of existence, may be washed away by the holy stream.
-
-In the midst of hundreds and hundreds of temples and ghāts, piled one
-above another on the high cliff, or rising out of the Ganges, the mind
-is perfectly bewildered: it turns from beauty to beauty, anxious to
-preserve the memory of each; and the sketcher throws down the pencil in
-despair. Each ghāt presents a study: the intricate architecture, the
-elaborate workmanship, the elegance and lightness of form, and the
-picturesque groups of natives that crowd to their devotions, form as
-fine a subject for a picture as an artist could select.
-
-How soon Benares, or rather the glory of Benares—its picturesque
-beauty—will be no more! Since the year 1836 many ghāts and temples have
-sunk, undermined by the rapid stream which now sets full upon the most
-beautiful cluster of the temples on its banks: some have been engulphed,
-some are falling; and ere long, if the Ganges encroach at an equal rate,
-but little will remain of the glory of the most holy of the Hindū
-cities.
-
-In the rains, some of the temples are submerged to the cornice; many
-Hindūs, notwithstanding, are bold enough to swim through an impetuous
-current, and to dive under the porch and doorway, for the honour of
-continuing their customary worship despite of perils and personal
-inconvenience.
-
-
- JULSYN GHĀT.
-
-Julsyn _Ghāt_ and Raj Bulubh Shīwala are now before you. On the terrace
-of the latter is a brahmanī bull: these animals walk about the buildings
-with seeming indifference, ascending the steps, mixing with the crowd,
-and constantly attending for their food. They are seldom disturbed; but
-when molested they are vicious, and will use their horns. The rice and
-flowers offered to the idols are swept up, and for the greater part
-eaten by the brahmanī bulls. The proverb says:—“At Benares you should be
-on guard against the women, the sacred bulls, the steps, and the
-devotees.”
-
-The principal Hindū temples in Benares are crowded with people of both
-sexes and of all ages, who daily assemble to pay their devotions to the
-deity of the place, from the hour of eight in the morning until nearly
-four in the afternoon. The form of worship is very simple: the votary
-enters the temple and prostrates himself, praying aloud; he then rises
-and strikes a bell suspended over a form of _Mahadēo_, thrice repeating
-the word _bom_, or hail, at each stroke; then putting a few grains of
-boiled rice, and a small quantity of milk or oil, or Ganges water, on
-the Mahadēo, he strews a few flowers over it, and, repeating the same,
-sometimes adorns the head of the idol with a chaplet of flowers. This
-ceremony being over, the votary lays down a few cowries, and retires to
-make room for others. The women generally enter with their garments
-quite wet, after having performed their ablutions in the Ganges. The
-quantity of milk, oil, water, and flowers, thrown about the place,
-renders it dirty and wet until the evening, when, the crowd retiring,
-the Brahmans clean the temple for the next day.
-
-The music and bells of a hundred temples strike the ear amidst the buzz
-of human voices; at the same time the eye rests on the vivid colours of
-different groups of male and female bathers, with their sparkling brass
-vessels, or follows the holy bulls as they wander in the crowds munching
-the chaplets of flowers liberally presented to them. Then, as night
-steals on, the scene changes, and the twinkling of lamps along the
-water’s edge, and the funeral fires and white curling smoke, and the
-stone buildings lit up by the moon, present features of variety and
-blended images of animation, which it is out of the artist’s power to
-embody.
-
-The large building that now appears is on Oomraogir’s _pushta_ or
-_ghāt_. On the exterior of the building is a _mut’h_, an Hindu temple,
-dedicated to Ganesh, the god of wisdom, and the patron of literature. In
-_pūja_ this idol is invoked ere any other god is worshipped. Ere a pious
-Hindū commence any sort of writing he makes the sign of Ganesh at the
-top of the page. With the simplicity of the child he unites the wisdom
-of the elephant: his writing is beautiful, “Behold! he writes like
-Ganesh!” Who can say more? He is called two mothered, uniting the
-elephant’s head to his natural body, therefore having a second mother in
-the elephant. The worshippers pour oil and the holy Ganges water over
-the head of this god, who is thus bathed daily; and offerings of boiled
-rice and flowers are made at the time of prayer. Around the idol are
-placed the vessels used in _pūja_, brass bells, the conch shell, the
-holy spoons, flowers, &c. In the Museum is a solid white marble image of
-Ganesh, which weighs 3¼ cwt. For a further account of this idol, see the
-frontispiece, and the Introduction to the “Wanderings of a Pilgrim
-during Four and Twenty Years in the East.”
-
-The Fākir seated on the ghāt is one in the highest stage of exaltation,
-in which clothing is almost dispensed with, and his only _garment_ is a
-_chatr_, an umbrella made of basket work: his long hair and his beard,
-matted with cow-dung and ashes, hang in stiff straight locks to his
-waist, his body is smeared with ashes; he always remains on the same
-spot, and when suffering from illness, a bit of tattered blanket is
-thrown over him. Passers by throw cowries and grains of boiled rice at
-his feet, he remains speechless, disregards all visible objects, asks
-for nothing, but subsists on alms. He will not answer any question
-addressed to him, which elucidates the proverb: “Talking to a man in
-ecstasy (of a religious nature) is like beating curds with a pestle.”
-Persons in this state affirm that their minds do not wander after
-worldly things, that they live in a state of pleasure, abstraction, and
-joy, and that they have attained to that state of perfection required by
-the _shastrs_. His red flag is displayed from a bamboo, below which is a
-small lantern made of coloured _ubruk_ or talc; sometimes the lamp is
-formed of clay, pierced through with fret-work in remarkably pretty
-patterns. The Hindūs suspend lamps in the air on bamboos in honour of
-the gods during a particular month, and in obedience to the _shastrs_.
-The offering of lamps to particular gods is an act of merit, so this
-offering to all the gods, during the auspicious month, is supposed to
-secure many benefits to the giver. Lamps suspended from bamboos are also
-indicative of the ceremony in honour of Ananta, the great serpent.
-
-On another bamboo is displayed the _trisūl_ or trident of Mahadēo, and a
-small double-headed hand-drum, shaped like an hour-glass, called
-_damaru_, used by _Fakīrs_; and in front by the side of the Devotee, is
-an altar, or pillar, hollowed at the top, containing the sacred _tulsī_
-plant (ocimum sanctum) purple stalked basil. This plant is worshipped in
-honour of a religious female who requested Vishnu to allow her to become
-his wife. Lukshmī, the goddess of beauty, and wife of Vishnu, cursed the
-woman on account of the pious request she had preferred to her lord, and
-changed her into a _tulsī_ plant. Vishnu, in consideration of the
-religious austerities long practised by the enamoured devotee, made her
-a promise that he would assume the form of the _shalgram_, and always
-continue with her. If one of these sacred plants die, it is committed in
-due form to _Ganga-jee_: and when a person is brought to die by the side
-of the sacred river, a branch of the _tulsī_, the shrub-goddess, is
-planted near the dying man’s head, and the marks upon the _shalgram_ are
-shown to him. This pebble god is a small heavy black circular stone,
-rather flattened on one side, with the _cornu ammonis_ strongly marked
-upon it. Devotees walk round the sacred plant, pour water upon it, and
-make _salām_. Of an evening a little _chirāgh_, a small lamp, is burned
-before it. In the courts of justice the Hindū swears by the Ganges water
-on which is placed a branch of the _tulsī_.
-
-
- MANIKURNĪKA GHĀT.
-
-A brahmanī bull is going up to the idol Ganesh, expecting a share of the
-flowers that are offered to the image. In the distance a band of
-pilgrims are coming down to fill their baskets with holy water; and in
-the foreground is a picturesque figure, also a carrier of holy water,
-which is put into small sealed bottles placed in baskets suspended from
-a bamboo poised on his shoulder, over which is a covering of red cloth.
-
-A tank of peculiar sanctity is now before you, on the steps of which men
-are ascending and descending: it is called the _Chakra kunda_, and its
-history is as follows:—“After one of the periodical destructions and
-renovations of the world, Siva and his bride were alone in the
-_ananda-vana_, or happy forest, occupying the present site of
-Munikarniká, they found, as man and wife may sometimes do, that their
-tête á tête was growing dull, and to vary the party, Siva created
-Vishnu. After a while, the married pair wished again for privacy and
-withdrew into the forest, desiring Vishnu to amuse himself by doing what
-was fit and proper; which, after some consideration, he judged to be a
-supply of water for the irrigation of the trees, and with his _chakra_,
-or discus, he dug a hole, which he filled with the ambrosial
-perspiration from his body, induced by his hard work; and the pool so
-dug and filled, has remained a spot of peculiar sanctity, termed, from
-the _chakra_, or discus, _chakra kunda_, or _chakra puskkarnī_,
-discus-pond. When Siva returned and saw what Vishnu had done, he nodded
-his head in approbation so energetically, that the jewel (_mani_) of one
-of his ear-rings (_karniká_) fell off, and the place was thenceforth
-called _Manikarnika_.” (See _Kasi Khand_, Part I. chap. 26).
-
-A Brahman sitting beneath a porch is reading aloud, with his book on his
-knees, and bending his body backwards and forwards as he reads.
-
-Beneath the shade of a fine _pīpal_ tree (ficus religiosa) is a
-four-headed and holy piece of sculpture, with the bull (_nandī_)
-reposing before it; also another singularly sculptured stone
-representing two heads, their bodies formed of snakes entwined. The
-_pīpal_ is universally sacred: the Hindūs are seen in the early morning
-putting flowers in _pūja_ at the foot of the tree, and pouring water on
-its roots. They worship the idols placed beneath it in a similar manner,
-and they believe that a god resides in every leaf, who delights in the
-music of their rustling, and their tremulous motion.
-
-Near this place is the spot on which the dead are burned; it is
-dedicated to Vishnu, as _Jalsāī_, or “sleeper on the waters;” and there,
-many a Hindu widow has devoted herself to the flames with the corpse of
-her husband. In the Museum is a brazen image of _Jalsāī_ floating on
-Anantā, the great serpent.
-
-
- THE HINDŪ SCHOOL.
-
-In the Bengalī schools a boy learns his letters by writing them, never
-by pronouncing the alphabet, as in Europe; he first writes them on the
-ground with a stick, or his fingers; next with an iron style, or a reed,
-on a palm-leaf; and next on a green plantain-leaf. The Bengalī
-schoolmasters punish with a cane, or a rod made of the branch of a tree;
-sometimes a truant is compelled to stand on one leg, holding up a brick
-in each hand, or to have his arms stretched out, until he is completely
-tired. Almost all the villages contain common schools. The allowance to
-the schoolmasters is very small: for the first year’s education, about a
-penny a month, and a day’s provisions; when a boy writes on the
-palm-leaf, twopence a month; after this, as the boy advances in
-learning, as much as fourpence or eightpence a month is given. There are
-no schools for girls among the Hindūs. “Jesus stooped down, and with his
-finger wrote upon the ground.” (John viii. 6). Schools for children are
-frequently held under trees in Bengal, and the children who are
-beginning to learn, write the letters of the alphabet in the dust. This
-saves pens, ink, and paper. “The sin of Judah is written with a pen of
-iron.” (Jeremiah xvii. 1). The letters are formed by making incisions on
-the palm-leaf: these books are very durable.
-
-The scene now represents the _gyan-bapī_, or the well of knowledge,
-which is regarded as peculiarly sacred by the Hindūs, and it is related
-that it was dug by Isana with his _trisūl_, or trident, when he was
-wandering about Kashī. One of the officiating Brahmans is seen receiving
-the offerings of rice, &c. from a party of pilgrims, just about to
-commence the circuit of the temples. If a rich Hindū present any thing
-to an inferior, the latter, as a mark of respect, puts it on his head.
-An offering of cloth, for instance, received at a temple, the receiver
-not only places on his head, but binds it there. The rice and flowers
-were formerly thrown into the well; but they rendered the water so
-putrid, that a defence of planks has been since put up to prevent it.
-The man near the _gyan-bapī_ carrying a staff, is a _dŭndī fakīr_. This
-name is given because these devotees receive a staff (_dŭndŭ_) when they
-first enter this order. The Brahmans, on meeting one, prostrate
-themselves before him. The _dŭndī_ shaves his head and beard every four
-months. He travels with a staff in one hand, and an alms-dish in the
-other; he does not beg or cook his food, but is a guest at the houses of
-the Brahmans. The ceremonies to which this order attend, are, repeating
-the names of Vishnŭ, bathing once a day, and, with closed eyes,
-meditating on the attributes of the god by the side of the river. When
-about to bathe, they besmear themselves all over with the mud of the
-Ganges. The _dŭndīs_ do not burn, but bury their dead, repeating certain
-forms of prayer.
-
-
- THE BALANCING GOAT.
-
-In front of a beautiful Muhammadan Mosque a group is assembled around an
-Hindostanī juggler, with his goat, two monkeys, and several bits of
-wood, made in the shape of an hour-glass. The first piece he places on
-the ground, the goat ascends it, and balances herself on the top: the
-man by degrees places another bit of wood on the edge of the former; the
-goat ascends and retains her balance: a third piece, in like manner, is
-placed on the top of the former two pieces; the goat ascends from the
-two former, a monkey is placed on her back, and she still preserves her
-balance. The man keeps time with a sort of musical instrument, which he
-holds in his right hand, and sings a wild song to aid the goat: without
-the song and the measured time, they say the goat could not perform the
-balance. A grass-cutter is looking on: he has just returned from cutting
-a bundle of _dūb_-grass: every horse in India has his _sāīs_, or groom,
-and his grass-cutter. When a beautiful _begam_ (a native princess) is
-suffering from the pangs of jealousy, she often exclaims, “I wish I were
-married to a grass-cutter!” because a man of that class is too poor to
-be able to keep two wives.
-
-The man on the right is a religious mendicant, a disciple of Siva. When
-this portrait was taken, his long black hair, matted with cow-dung, was
-twisted like a turban round his head: he was dreadfully lean, almost a
-skeleton. His left arm had been held erect so long, that the flesh had
-withered, and the skin clung round the bones most frightfully; the nails
-of the hand, which had been kept immoveably clenched, had pierced
-through the palm, and grew out at the back of the hand, like the long
-claws of a bird of prey. His skeleton arm was encircled by a twisted
-stick, the stem perhaps of a thick creeper, the end of which was cut
-into the shape of the head of the cobra di capello, with its hood
-displayed; and the twisted withy looked like the body of the reptile
-wreathed around his horrible arm. His only garment was the skin of a
-tiger, thrown over his shoulders, and a bit of rag and rope. He was of a
-dirty ashen colour from mud and paint; perhaps in imitation of Siva,
-who, when he appeared on earth as a naked mendicant of an ashy colour,
-was recognized as Mahadēo, the great god. This man was considered a very
-holy person. His right hand contained an empty gourd and a small rosary,
-and two long rosaries were around his neck of the rough beads called
-_mundrāsī_. Acts of severity towards the body, practised by religious
-mendicants, are not done as penances for sin, but as works of
-extraordinary merit, promising large rewards in a future state. The
-_Byragī_ is not a penitent, but a proud ascetic.
-
-A very small and beautifully-formed _ginī_ (a dwarf cow) was with him.
-She was decorated with crimson cloth, embroidered with cowrie shells,
-and a plume of peacocks’ feathers as a _jika_, rose from the top of her
-head. A brass bell was on her neck, and around her legs were anklets of
-the same metal. Many _Fakīrs_ lead these little dwarf cows about the
-country, they are fat and sleek, and considered so holy that they will
-not sell them.
-
-A barber sitting on a ghāt, is shaving an Hindū, he makes use of water,
-but not of soap, while he shaves all round the head, leaving a tuft of
-hair in the middle of the back of the head, which is commonly tied in a
-knot. Shaving is usually done under a small shed or a tree, very often
-in the street or road.
-
-We have now given as many views of Benares as it is possible to
-introduce within the limits of our Diorama, and we take leave of the
-holy city with regret. The _Vedas_ and _Shastrs_ all testify that
-“Viswaswara is the first of _Devas_, _Kashī_ (Benares) the first of
-cities, _Gangā_ the first of rivers, and charity the first of virtues.”
-Vishveshvur, “Lord of the Universe,” is one of the most exalted titles
-of Siva.
-
-
- THE FORTRESS OF CHUNAR.
-
-The scene now represents Chunar, a fortress of considerable natural
-strength, situated on an insulated rock, about 150 feet high, forming
-the extremity of a low range of hills, on the right bank of the Ganges,
-about eighteen miles from Benares. In December, 1765, the Company’s
-troops, commanded by Major Pemble, stormed the place, and were repulsed
-with severe loss. The defences were irregular, following the outline of
-the eminence on which they were erected: several heavy batteries were
-mounted on the ramparts; but the native garrison trusted more to the
-inaccessible nature of the approach, and to the facilities it possessed
-for rolling down stones upon any assailants,—of which missiles, a large
-supply was always held in readiness on the ramparts. The fortress was
-again invested, and on the 8th of February, 1765, the _Killadar_ of the
-Fort surrendered the keys to Major Stibbert. It is an invalid station,
-although not reckoned a healthy spot, owing to the great heat arising
-from the stone: it completely commands the river, and is used as a place
-of confinement for state-prisoners. Snakes are numerous, and boys bring
-the cobra di capello for sale to boats. In the Magazine is a large black
-slab, on which the deity of the Fort is said to be ever present, with
-the exception of from daybreak until the hour of nine A.M., during which
-time he is at Benares. Tradition asserts, that the Fort would never have
-been taken by the English, but for the absence of their god Burtreenath.
-
-A little above the Fort is a temple: tradition states it to contain a
-chest, which cannot be opened, unless the party opening it lose his
-hand—four thieves having so suffered once in an attempt upon it. It is
-also recorded, that the deified giant Bhīm Singh, built the fortress of
-Chunar in one day, and rendered it impregnable.
-
-A native has just succeeded in crossing the river on a bundle of reeds;
-his clothes placed on the top of his head are safe from wet, and with
-one hand he paddles along. On the outskirts of the village is seen a
-remarkably ancient Banyan-tree, the Ficus Indica.
-
-In front of the tomb of a _Pīr_ (a Muhammadan saint), three followers of
-the prophet are at their devotions. A _Shāmiyāna_, or awning, screens
-the tomb from the sun and rain: the standards of Hussan and Hussein are
-displayed, and daily coloured lanterns are suspended from the top of
-high bamboos.
-
-
- THE PERSIAN WHEEL.
-
-A woman is sticking cakes of cow-dung on the wall to dry for fuel. This
-article, called _oplā_, is generally used by the poorer classes; 1280
-cakes are sold for a rupee: when well prepared and dried it blazes like
-wood. On the right is a fine Persian wheel: the water is brought up in
-_gharas_, red earthen vessels fastened round its circumference; it is
-worked by two bullocks, and gives an abundant supply. A wheel of this
-sort is perhaps superior to any other method of drawing water.
-
-
- MIRZAPŪR.
-
-Mirzapūr is a military cantonment, famous for its beautiful ghāts, and
-noted for its carpet manufactory and cotton mart. Some remarkably
-picturesque Hindū temples are on the _ghāts_, with fine trees in the
-back ground. The cliff is abrupt, and the river is always crowded with
-vessels full of merchandise: steamers having plenty of cargo to land are
-generally detained here four or five hours. Mirzapūr is from Calcutta,
-_via_ Bhagirathī, 748 miles, and by dāk route, 455.
-
-The scene before you is very singular; it represents the finale of the
-_Kalī-pūjā_ festival: the goddess is seen on a platform in the boat in
-the foreground, covered by an awning, and adorned with flags: on the
-steps of the _ghāt_, a similar image is being put into a boat, and from
-every part of the city the worshippers are bringing forth the idols. One
-of the boats is towed by a _dinghī_, in which they are firing a _feu de
-joie_ from a matchlock.
-
-In the house of the Bengalī _babū_ you beheld a _nāch_, and the worship
-of the goddess Dūrga, a yellow woman, with ten arms. You have now before
-you another form of the same Hindū deity, under the name of Kalī, the
-black, the terrific. When this goddess is worshipped in the month of
-May, it is called the _Phuluharī_ festival, on account of the quantity
-of fruits and flowers offered to the idol at this particular season:
-animals are sacrificed in her honour, and jack fruit and mangoes are
-presented to her in that particular month.
-
-The day after the worship, the people carry the goddess in state to the
-river, and place the image on a platform, between two boats; the
-worshippers, attended by the discordant music of tom-toms (native drums)
-and horns, row the image out into the stream, and sink her in the deep
-waters: the women weep and utter lamentations on parting with the idol.
-
-This goddess is represented as a black woman, with four arms: in one
-hand she carries a scimitar, one is bestowing a blessing, another
-forbids fear, and the fourth holds the head of the giant whom she slew.
-
-She wears a necklace of skulls, her tongue hangs out of her mouth, her
-jet-black hair falls to her heels. Having drunk the blood of the giants
-she slew, her eyebrows are bloody, and the blood is falling in a stream
-down her breast: her eyes are red, like those of a drunkard: she stands
-trampling on her husband Siva. Kālī had a contest with the giant Ravŭna,
-which lasted ten years: having conquered him, she became mad with joy,
-and her dancing shook the earth to its centre. To restore the peace of
-the world, Siva, her husband, threw himself amongst the dead bodies at
-her feet. She continued her dancing, and trampled upon him. When she
-discovered her husband, she stood still, horror-struck and ashamed, and
-threw out her tongue to an uncommon length; by this means Siva stopped
-her frantic dancing, and saved the universe. “The Philistine cursed
-David by his gods.” A Hindū sometimes in a fit of anger, says to his
-enemy, “The goddess Kalī shall devour thee; may Dūrga destroy thee!”
-
-
- THE TIMBER RAFT.
-
-The picturesque _ghāt_ of Sirsya is in the distance, in front of which
-is an enormous boat, called a _Kutcher_, or _Kutchuā_; the bows and the
-stern are both square. A vessel of this description has frequently two
-rudders, like the one before you. It is laden with bales of cotton,
-which extend, supported on bamboos, far beyond each side of the boat.
-The next vessel is a large _patailī_, called a _ghor-daul_, or
-_ghora-wal_, because the bows are ornamented with a horse’s head. She is
-laden with salt.
-
-In the foreground is a timber raft, one of the most picturesque objects
-to be seen on the Ganges. The men who accompany the raft have a
-strangely wild appearance; fresh from the _jangal_, they come down with
-the floating timber for scarcely any payment, just enough to feed them.
-They are small in stature, their skins are very dark, they shave the
-head completely, and their bodies are all but naked. They direct the
-course of the raft with long bamboos; a small thatch is erected upon
-her, under which they creep, and there they sleep. A picture in itself
-is the wild, strange-looking timber raft, which is generally decorated
-with two or three small red flags, and is always accompanied by a very
-small, narrow canoe, hollowed out of the trunk of a tree.
-
-
- ALLAHABAD.
-
-The fortress of Allahabad was built by Akbar Shah in 1581. On the 11th
-February, 1765, the governor of the fort, Alī Beg Khan, surrendered it
-to the Company’s troops, under the command of Major Fletcher, and
-marched out with his garrison, under safe conduct. Thus in one week
-Chunar and Allahabad, the two most important fortresses in
-Shuja-oo-Dowlah’s possession, fell without loss into the hands of the
-English.
-
-The fortress is erected upon a point of land, stretching out into the
-waters at the junction of the sacred rivers. One of the holiest places
-on the Ganges is pointed out by numerous flags at the spot where it
-joins the Jumna, just below the fort. The Saraswati is supposed to unite
-with them _underground_, whence the junction is called _Trivenī_, or
-_Tribenī_. This spot is so holy, that a person dying there is certain of
-immediate _moskh_, or beatitude, without risk of further transmigration.
-The blue waters of the Jumna contrast strongly at the junction with the
-muddy hue of the waters of the Ganges. On the sands below the fort, the
-_Bura Mela_, or great fair, is held annually; it lasts about two months,
-and attracts devotees and merchants from all parts of India. At that
-period, also, _lākhs_ and _lākhs_ of natives come to Prag; they make
-_pūja_, shave, give money to the _Fakīrs_, and bathe at the sacred
-junction. Suicide committed at the _Benī_ is meritorious in persons of a
-certain caste, but a _sin_ for a Brahman! The ancient city of Prag,
-acquired the name of Allahabad from the Musalmān conquerors of India.
-
-The buildings occupied by Shah Allum when he resided in the fort, still
-retain traces of their former grandeur, and some of the apartments
-command a fine view of the Jumna that flows beneath. An enormous pillar,
-formerly prostrate near the gateway in the fort, has been set up on a
-pedestal, under the superintendence of the late Colonel Edward Smith.
-The natives call it _Bhīm Singh ké lāt_, that is, Bhīm Singh’s
-walking-stick: some of the inscriptions on the _lāt_ are in unknown
-characters—those of the mighty dead, who have disappeared from the
-earth, leaving records imperishable, but incomprehensible.
-
-The steam vessels and tugs which navigate the Ganges from Calcutta
-terminate their voyage at Allahabad.
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
- THE SATĪ.
-
-The scene now before you represents a _Satī_, the burning of a Hindū
-widow with the corpse of her husband. The event here represented took
-place on the 7th November, 1828, near Raj ghāt, under the Mahratta
-_bund_ (an embankment raised to prevent the encroachment of the Ganges).
-The woman was the wife of a rich _buniyā_ (a corn-chandler), and she
-determined to burn on his funeral-pile. The magistrate sent for her,
-used every argument to dissuade her, and offered her money. Her only
-answer was, dashing her head against the floor, and saying, “If you will
-not let me burn with my husband, I will hang myself in your court of
-justice.” If a widow touch either food or water from the time her
-husband expires until she ascend the pile, she cannot, by Hindū law, be
-burned with the body; therefore the magistrate kept the corpse
-_forty-eight_ hours, in the hope that hunger would compel the woman to
-eat. Guards were set over her; but she never touched any thing. A
-procession of people accompanied the widow from her dwelling to the
-river-side; she walked in the midst, dressed in a red garment, and the
-corpse, placed on a charpaī, fixed on long bamboos, was carried on men’s
-shoulders. About 5000 people were collected together on the banks of the
-Ganges: the pile was built, and the putrid body placed upon it.
-
-After having bathed in the river, the widow lighted a brand, walked
-round the pile, set it on fire, and then mounted cheerfully: the flame
-caught and blazed up instantly; she sat down, placing the head of the
-corpse on her lap, and repeated several times the usual form, “_Ram,
-Ram, sātī; Ram, Ram, sātī_;” _i.e._ “God, God, I am chaste.” As the wind
-drove the fierce fire upon her, she shook her arms and limbs as if in
-agony; at length she started up, and approached the side to escape. An
-Hindū—one of the police who had been placed near the pile to see that
-she had fair play, and should not be burned by force—raised his sword to
-strike her, and the poor wretch shrank back into the flames. The
-magistrate seized and committed him to prison. The woman again
-approached the side of the blazing pile, sprang fairly out, and ran into
-the Ganges, which was within a few yards. When the crowd and the
-brothers of the dead man saw this, they called out, “Cut her down! knock
-her on the head with a bamboo! tie her hands and feet, and throw her in
-again!” They rushed down to execute their murderous intentions, when
-some English gentlemen and the police drove them back. The woman drank
-some water, and having extinguished the fire on her red garment, said
-she would mount the pile again and be burned. The magistrate placed his
-hand upon her shoulder (which rendered her impure), and said, “By your
-own law, having once quitted the pile, you cannot ascend again; I forbid
-it.” He sent her in a palanquin, under a guard, to the hospital. The
-crowd made way, shrinking from her with signs of horror, but returned
-peacefully to their homes; the Hindūs annoyed at her escape, the
-Musalmāns, saying, “It was better that she should escape, but it was a
-pity we should have lost the _tamāshā_ (amusement) of seeing her burnt
-to death.” The woman said, “I have transmigrated six times, and have
-been burned six times with six different husbands; if I do not burn the
-seventh time, it will prove unlucky for me!” “What good will burning do
-you?” asked a bystander: she replied, “The women of my husband’s family
-have all been _satīs_: why should I bring disgrace upon them? I shall go
-to heaven, and afterwards re-appear on earth, and be married to a very
-rich man.”
-
-The woman was about 25 years of age, and possessed some property: had
-she performed _satī_, her relatives would have raised a little cenotaph,
-or a mound of earth, by the side of the river; and every Hindū who
-passed the place returning from bathing, would have made _salām_ to it—a
-high honour to the family. The _shastrs_ say, “There is no greater
-virtue than a chaste woman burning herself with her husband.” Mothers
-collect the cowries, strewn by a satī as she walks round the pile, ere
-she fires it, and hang them round the necks of their sick children, as a
-cure for disease.
-
-The woman became an outcast: her own and her husband’s family would lose
-caste, if they were to speak to her; no Hindū will eat with her, enter
-her house, or give her assistance; and when she appears, they will point
-at her, and give her abuse. Many years after this event took place, the
-woman regained caste by giving large feasts and donations to the
-Brahmans.
-
-In the Museum are five _kalsas_, or crowns of unglazed pottery, some of
-which formerly decorated the _satī_ mounds in Alopee Bagh, near
-Allahabad, and the rest were brought from Ghazipūr. There are also two
-black stones, apparently very ancient, on which figures are carved,
-brought from the _satī_ mound of the widow of a Brahman, at Barrah.
-
-About two years after this event at Allahabad, the practice of _satī_
-was abolished, by order of government.
-
-The fine building here represented is a _dhrum-sala_, or place to
-distribute alms, at Benī Māhadēo Ghāt; it is dedicated to a form of
-Māhadēo, which stands in the _shiwālā_, or little temple above. Under
-the arches in the lower part, by the side of the Ganges, is an enormous
-figure of Ganesh; the worshippers pour oil and Ganges water over the
-image, with rice and flowers, and hang chaplets of flowers around its
-neck: the idol is generally dripping with oil. The red flag, at the end
-of a long bamboo displayed from the _pīpul_ tree, denotes the residence
-of a _Fakīr_. The temple is very picturesque, and the foliage adds to
-the beauty of the scene.
-
-
- SULTAN KHUSRŪ’S MAUSOLEUM.
-
-The _sarā’e_, or caravansary, at Allahabad, built by Sultan Khusrū, is a
-noble one, and the gateway through which you pass to the _bāghīcha_, or
-garden bearing his name, is very fine. The garden is a large space of
-ground, enclosed by a high wall, containing three tombs and a
-_baithakhāna_, or pavilion. These palace-like tombs, amongst which is
-that of Sultan Khusrū’s, are splendid mausoleums. Tho first and largest
-monument is that of the Sultan, in which he is buried; it is a handsome
-building, and within it is deposited a beautifully-illuminated kurān.
-Sultan Khusrū married a daughter of the Wuzeer Azim Khan; he was the son
-of Jehāngīr, and his mother was the daughter of the Rajpūt Prince
-Bagwandas, of Amber. The other monuments are those of Noorjahān and the
-Jodh Bā’ī; the fourth building is a pavilion, in which visitors are
-allowed to live for a short time, during a visit to the garden. Around
-the tombs are some of the finest and most beautiful tamarind-trees.
-These trees, called by the natives _imlī_, are generally found around or
-sheltering the tombs of revered or sacred characters. The natives are
-impressed with a notion that it is dangerous to sleep under the
-tamarind-tree, especially during the night.
-
-Just beyond the gates of the _sarā’e_, is a _bāolī_, a magnificent well,
-with underground apartments; it is a most remarkable and curious place,
-and the well is a noble one.
-
-A company of pilgrims, carriers of holy water, are _en route_ to the
-junction, to fill their bottles at the _benī_, or bathing-place. They
-are passing some of the tombs of the faithful.
-
-In the foreground are some aloes. In India the hedges are full of this
-plant, and it flowers annually.
-
-
- THE GRAM GRINDER.
-
-In front of a native village a woman is spinning, and on the right is
-another Hindū woman, a gram grinder. Gram (_chāna_, _cicer arietinum_,
-chick pea) is used for the food of horses in India. It is ground in a
-_chakkī_, or mill, which is formed of two flat circular stones, the
-lower of which is generally fixed in the earth, and from its centre a
-peg passes through a hole in the upper stone, and forms a pivot on which
-the upper stone works. The gram is put in through this hole in the upper
-stone, and the flour works out at the edges between the two stones. When
-there is much work to be done, two women will sit on the ground and
-grind the same mill, which is placed between their legs. This is the
-sort of mill spoken of in Scripture: “Two women were grinding at the
-mill, the one shall be taken and the other left.” Matt. xxiv. 41.
-
-Two children are playing with some meal in a basket; one of them is
-adorned with a number of charms, fastened on a string. The _ta’wīz_, or
-charm, is an armlet, to ward off evil spirits, and all misfortune. The
-native beds, resting against the wall on the right, serve as beds by
-night, and as resting-places by day.
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
- HURDWAR.
-
-Hurdwar, on the right bank of the Ganges, a place of great sanctity, is
-celebrated as the resort of Hindū pilgrims, in amazing numbers. Hurdwar,
-or _Hurīdwar_, (the gate of Hurī, or Vishnū,) is also called
-_Gangū-dwāra_—as at this place the Ganges, having traversed 150 miles
-from its secluded mountain birth-place, and having forced a passage
-through the last barrier or gate (_dwāra_), emerges in a broad clear
-stream upon the plains. Hurdwar contains many fine buildings parallel
-with the course of the river, some of which have their foundations in
-the sacred waters. They are generally of brick, but many are of very
-fine white freestone. The bed of the river is intersected with low woody
-islands, and is a full mile broad in the rainy season.
-
-A fair takes place annually at Hurdwar, in the month of April, lasting
-nearly a fortnight; that being the period chosen by pilgrims, who flock
-from all parts of India to perform their ablutions in the Ganges: it is
-held in the bed of the river, which at that period is nearly dry. Two or
-three hundred thousand people are attracted to this fair, and every
-twelfth year, it is supposed a million of people assemble at this place.
-The scene is interesting in the highest degree. Merchants from Calcutta
-meet with others from Osbeck Tartary, and Cabul; and thousands of Seiks
-attend the fair. Horse merchants from Bokhara and Cabul occupy the
-central parts of the dry bed of the river; those from Tūrkistān encamp
-at the back of the town. Elephant dealers traverse the roads of the fair
-with their animals, morning and evening; and the place is crowded with
-camels, mules, and shawl and jewel merchants; in fact, merchandise of
-every description is collected at the fair from every part of the
-Eastern world, and it is difficult to convey even a faint idea of the
-swarms of living creatures, men and beasts of every description, which
-occupy every foot of ground during the fair.
-
-The Hindūs receive from the Brahmans a certificate of having performed
-the pilgrimage; and carriers of holy water attend in great numbers to
-bring away the sacred stream in bottles, carefully sealed and stamped.
-
-
- THE BATHING GHĀT.
-
-The principal bathing ghāt has been lately rebuilt in a most splendid
-manner by the Government of Bengal, under the superintendence of an
-officer of engineers; it is now both elegant and commodious, and will
-prevent the destruction of so many human beings, which so often occurred
-by the sudden rush of the devotees through the old and narrow ghāt to
-reach the water at the propitious moment, which was often at midnight.
-The auspicious moment is calculated by the Brahmans, who aver that a
-great increase in the efficacy of the rite is derivable from its
-performance, when Jupiter is in Aquarius, which happens every twelfth
-year, or when the sun enters Aries.
-
-A wandering mendicant in the foreground is playing on an _ektara_, a
-one-stringed instrument, formed of a gourd, surmounted by peacocks’
-feathers—the Paganini of the East!
-
-
- BARH.
-
-The scene before you represents the encampment of the Commander-in-chief
-at Barh, at the foot of the hills, distant about thirty miles from
-Simla. Here the baggage elephants, and camels, deposit their loads, a
-part of which are carried up the mountains by the hill men; the
-remainder, with the carriages, palanquins, and tents, are either sent
-back to the plains, or placed in _godowns_ belonging to a Simla firm at
-Barh. The ladies of the party are sitting in _jampāns_, ready to ascend
-“The Hills,” as these mountains are called, from being at the foot of
-the Himalaya. The _jampān_ is a sort of arm-chair, with a top and
-curtains to it, to afford shelter from the sun or rain; long poles are
-affixed to it, and it is carried by four _Paharīs_, singular-looking
-little black, hill fellows, harnessed between the poles after their
-fashion. A group of them are sitting near the _jampāns_. They are little
-fellows, with flat ugly faces, like the Tartar race, dressed in black
-woollen coarse trowsers, a blanket of the same over their shoulders, and
-a rope round their waists; a black greasy round leather cap on their
-heads, sometimes decorated all round the face with bunches of freshly
-gathered hill flowers. They are very honest, and very idle; moreover,
-most exceedingly dirty. The women are good-looking and strong. Polyandry
-is a common institution. Gentlemen ascend the hills either in a _jampān_
-or on a _gūnth_, a hill-poncy, a most sure-footed, sagacious animal, who
-will carry you safely round the most dangerous places, where you have a
-wall of rock on the one side, and a precipice on the other. A
-_jumna-par_ goat, with its long silky ears, is lying on the ground near
-a shawl goat from Cashmere. Some men of a corps of irregular horse are
-in attendance on the Commander-in-Chief, and the _tom-tom wālā_, with
-his drum, is seated on his blanket, on which the people throw cowries,
-and sometimes _paisā_, small copper coins: a _tom-tom wālā_ is a
-constant attendant on every camp.
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
- SIMLA—THE CONICAL HILL.
-
-The view now before you represents the conical hill at Simla; it was
-taken by Lieutenant-Colonel Luard from his house, called The Craigs.
-Simla is about 7000 feet above the level of the sea; it is not many
-miles from Rampore, the chief town in the valley of the Sutledge, and is
-one of the favourite places of resort of Europeans during the hot
-season.
-
-As the chosen retreat of Governors-General and Commanders-in-Chief, from
-the burning plains of India, the place has enjoyed for some years past
-many considerable advantages. A great number of residences have been
-built on the hills; the roads are good; there is a church, a school, an
-observatory, an amateur theatre, &c. You have a glimpse of the snowy
-ranges in the distance. The conical hill is crowned by Stirling Castle;
-and the house below it was then inhabited by Colonel Birch, the Judge
-Advocate General. The flag-staff points out the residence of his
-Excellency the Commander-in-Chief, and the houses below, on the left,
-are those occupied by the Aid-de-camps. Two hill men are in the
-foreground, with the baskets in which they carry provisions on their
-backs.
-
-
- SIMLA.
-
-The view is a continuation of Simla; and one of the residences now
-before you is that of Mr. Gubbins, of the Bengal Civil Service.
-
-The hills are covered with the finest vegetation, and the views are
-beautiful. The evergreen oak flourishes in magnificence, the deodar fir
-rises to enormous height, and the bright crimson-flowered rhododendron
-is a _forest tree_, not a shrub, as you have it in England. Violets are
-under every rock, the wild notes of the hill birds are heard in every
-direction, and health, strength, and spirits are imparted by the pure,
-delicious, and bracing mountain air.
-
-
- FAGOO.
-
-On the Hill of Fagoo, here represented, is a Traveller’s Bungalow,
-constructed of wood. A group of _Paharīs_, or hill men, are on the
-right, and in the distance are the snowy ranges of the Himalaya. Water
-is procured from the _khuds_, as the deep narrow valleys between the
-hills are called, where it is found in little rills.
-
-
- THE GANGES.
-
-This mountainous and picturesque scene represents the force with which
-the holy river rushes downwards from the deep recesses in the mountains,
-until it passes the last barrier of rocks, and emerges on the plains
-near Hurdwar.
-
-The _dēodar_, Pinus dēodara, rises to a magnificent height in these
-regions, sometimes measuring 100 feet: its oil, called _dēodar_, is used
-by the natives as a powerful remedy in rheumatic attacks. Leopards and
-bears inhabit the forests, and the musk deer is sometimes, though but
-rarely found. The black and the golden eagles of the Himalaya swoop over
-the precipices, and a great variety of remarkably beautiful pheasants
-are found here. Specimens of all these birds may be seen in the Museum.
-
-
- THE SNOWY REGIONS.
-
-As you approach Gangoutrī, you enter on the snowy regions; and in the
-scene before you, the hill men, with baskets of provisions, are toiling
-up the steep ascent, for which their stout and sinewy limbs are well
-adapted; and pilgrims are ascending the mountain. An English gentleman,
-seated beneath a small tent, is resting, refreshing himself, and
-enjoying the warmth of the fire his attendants have kindled, ere he
-re-commences the toilsome ascent of the snowy mountains.
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
- GANGOUTRĪ.
-
-Gangoutrī, the source of the most sacred river in Hindostan, is now
-before you. The pious Hindū believes, that in this awful solitude
-Mahadēo sits enthroned in clouds and mist, amid rocks that defy the
-approach of living thing, and snows that make desolation more awful.
-Surrounded by gigantic peaks entirely cased in snow, and almost beyond
-the regions of animal and vegetable life, an awful silence prevails,
-except when broken by the thundering peals of falling avalanches. Cold,
-wild, and stupendous, the dazzling brilliancy of the snow is rendered
-more striking by its contrast with the dark blue colour of the sky; and
-at night the stars shine with a lustre they have not in a denser
-atmosphere. Gangoutrī (_Gangā avatārī_), marked 10,319 feet above the
-sea, is the celebrated place of pilgrimage, near to which the Ganges
-issues: its course has not been traced beyond Gangoutrī; for the stream,
-a little farther, is entirely concealed under a glacier or iceberg, and
-is supposed to be inaccessible. The _mandap_, or Hindū temple, built by
-a Ghoorka chief, is of stone, and contains small statues of Bhāgīrath,
-Gangā, and other local deities. It stands on a piece of rock about
-twenty feet higher than the bed of the Ganges; and at a little distance
-there is a rough wooden building to shelter travellers. The last day of
-his journey the pilgrim fasts, and on his arrival at the sacred spot, he
-has his whole body shaved; after which he bathes, performs funeral
-obsequies in honour of his deceased ancestors, and makes presents to the
-Brahmans.
-
-To perish by cold in the mountains during a pilgrimage, forms one of the
-methods by which the Hindūs may meritoriously put a period to their
-existence; it is also one of the Hindū atonements for great offences.
-The pilgrim must remain seven days at Gangoutrī: when he is about to
-return, he obtains some of the offerings which have been presented to
-the idol or idols, and brings them home to give to his friends; these
-consist of sweet-meats, _tulsī_ leaves, the ashes of cow-dung, &c. To
-obtain its full benefit, the pilgrimage must be performed on foot. A
-trifle is paid to the Brahman for the privilege of taking the water,
-which the Hindūs believe is so pure as neither to evaporate nor become
-corrupted by being kept and transported to distant places.
-Notwithstanding the great efficacy attributed to this pilgrimage,
-Gangoutrī is but little frequented, owing to the hardships to be
-endured, and the great difficulties that are met with on the route; the
-accomplishment of it is supposed to redeem the performer from many
-troubles in this world, and ensure a happy transit through all the
-stages of transmigration he may have to undergo.
-
-The snowy peaks of Gangoutrī rise in glittering whiteness high above the
-clouds. Look on those mountains of eternal snow,—the rose tints linger
-on them, the white clouds roll below, and their peaks are sharply set
-upon a sky of the brightest, clearest, and deepest blue. Who may
-describe the solitary loveliness, the speaking quietude that wraps these
-forest scenes? Who can look unmoved on the coronets of snow that crown
-the eternal Himalaya?
-
-“Our fathers worshipped in this mountain.” (John iv. 20.) In these awful
-solitudes, where eternity is throned in “icy halls of cold sublimity,”
-the Hindūs think “men ought to worship.” The pilgrim gazes with delight
-on the aërial mountains that pour down Gangā and Yamunā from their
-snow-formed caves, and enjoys those solemn feelings of natural piety
-with which the spirit of solitude imbues the soul.
-
-We have now traced the course of the Ganges, from the branch called the
-Hoogly, which flows past Fort William, Bengal, to Gangoutrï, its source
-in the Himalaya. The Diorama is concluded, and we trust that
-satisfaction and pleasure have been experienced by the audience who have
-accompanied us on the pilgrimage.
-
-
- THE MUSEUM
-
-is open for the inspection of those who have honoured with their
-presence the DIORAMA OF HINDOSTAN.
-
-
- THE END.
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-
-
- LONDON:
-
- GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS,
-
- ST. JOHN’S SQUARE.
-
-
-
-
- Prospectus.
-
- In the Spring of 1852 will be published, in One Vol., royal 8vo,
- handsomely bound in cloth,
-
-
- A HISTORY
-
- OF THE
-
- DRESS OF THE BRITISH SOLDIER,
-
- FROM THE EARLIEST PERIOD TO THE PRESENT TIME.
-
- Illustrated with Fifty Drawings.
-
- BY
-
- LIEUT.-COLONEL JOHN LUARD.
-
- _Price_ 30_s._ 0_d._ _To Subscribers_, 25_s._ 0_d._
- _On India Paper_, 32_s._ 6_d._ _To Subscribers_, 27_s._ 6_d._
-
-
-The object of this work is to describe the numerous changes, which have
-taken place in the Dress of Military Men; first, during the time when
-armour was worn, but more particularly since it has been left off; with
-a view, by accurately delineating the various changes, to induce British
-Officers to reflect without prejudice on this important subject, and to
-form a just estimate of what is useful, desirable, and ornamental for a
-soldier’s equipment, at the smallest expense, both for officers and
-privates,—taking into consideration the best mode of ensuring freedom of
-action for the different arms of the service, and for health and
-comfort, while enduring the various climates of our colonies.
-
-
-
-
- Opinions of the Press.
-
-
- WANDERINGS OF A PILGRIM,
-
- During Four-and-Twenty Years in the East; with Revelations of Life in
- the Zenana.
-
- BY
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
- THE ENGLISH REVIEW.
-
-“The tone of bold and careless frankness in which this interesting and
-instructive work is written, is singularly attractive. ‘Les Indoos
-peints par eux-mêmes’ might be its title.”
-
-
- WESTMINSTER AND FOREIGN QUARTERLY REVIEW.
-
-“But we must here take leave of a work in which we have felt a more than
-ordinary interest; the spirit with which the various events of a
-prolonged residence in the East are delineated, the beautiful
-illustrations, and the graphic descriptions of scenery, will ensure for
-the book a favourable reception from every reader.”
-
-
- NAVAL AND MILITARY GAZETTE.
-
-“If we admire the book much for its external beauty, we admire it still
-more for its internal merit—for the infinite variety, curiosity, and
-interest of its contents.”
-
-
- THE COURT JOURNAL.
-
-“To the authoress of the twenty-four years’ ‘Wanderings’ has been
-reserved the honour of superseding the vivacious correspondent of
-Alexander Pope, and of taking the first rank as the chronicler of the
-scenes of the Zenana. Nothing of the kind can rival the portraiture of
-the ‘Pilgrim.’ It is fresh, intelligent, and minutely interesting.”
-
-
- BLACKWOOD’S LADY’S MAGAZINE.
-
-“We affirm, without fear of contradiction, that so graphic, picturesque,
-and thoroughly _real_ a delineation of India as a country, and its
-inhabitants as a people, has never before appeared.”
-
-
- THE ASIATIC AND COLONIAL QUARTERLY JOURNAL.
-
-“This, in all its phases, is a very splendid, very attractive work, and
-amply meriting the exceeding favour with which it has been received;
-exciting and achieving, as it assuredly has, an extended interest and
-popularity throughout the reading communities of Europe and Asia; the
-while, receiving Her Majesty of England’s gracious patronage, along with
-that, _to its fullest extent_, of those mighty Kings of the East, the
-Directors of the East India Company.”
-
-
- THE BRITANNIA AND CONSERVATIVE JOURNAL.
-
-“Now, the great charm and recommendation of the ‘Wanderings’ is their
-clear and perfect _truth_.”
-
-
- THE WEEKLY NEWS.
-
-“She has gone forth with a determination of purpose which none of the
-perils of Life in India could shake, and in a zealous pursuit of the
-truth which no sophistry could check; and grasping alike at the loftiest
-and minutest objects, has contrived to accumulate a mass of information
-never before comprehended in a single work.”
-
-[Illustration]
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-
-
- TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES
-
-
- 1. P. 24, changed “each side her bows” to “each side of her bows”.
- 2. P. 44, changed “one side the hut” to “one side of the hut”.
- 3. Silently corrected typographical errors and variations in spelling.
- 4. Retained anachronistic, non-standard, and uncertain spellings as
- printed.
- 5. Enclosed italics font in _underscores_.
-
-
-
-
-
-End of Project Gutenberg's Grand Moving Diorama of Hindostan, by Fanny Parks
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