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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/5992-h.zip b/5992-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2f0ae37 --- /dev/null +++ b/5992-h.zip diff --git a/5992-h/5992-h.htm b/5992-h/5992-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f7632c2 --- /dev/null +++ b/5992-h/5992-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,6439 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="us-ascii"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en"> + <head> + <title> + Station Amusements in New Zealand, by Lady Barker + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal; + margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%; + text-align: right;} + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Station Amusements, by Lady Barker + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Station Amusements + +Author: Lady Barker + +Release Date: June 4, 2009 [EBook #5992] +Last Updated: February 1, 2013 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STATION AMUSEMENTS *** + + + + +Produced by P. J. Riddick, and David Widger + + + + + + +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h1> + STATION AMUSEMENTS IN NEW ZEALAND + </h1> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h2> + By Lady Barker + </h2> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h2> + Contents + </h2> + <p> + <a href="#link2H_PREF"> Preface. </a><br /> + </p> + <table summary="" style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto"> + <tr> + <td> + <a href="#link2HCH0001"> Chapter I. </a> + </td> + <td> + A Bush picnic + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + <a href="#link2HCH0002"> Chapter II. </a> + </td> + <td> + Eel-fishing + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + <a href="#link2HCH0003"> Chapter III. </a> + </td> + <td> + Pig-stalking + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + <a href="#link2HCH0004"> Chapter IV. </a> + </td> + <td> + Skating in the back country + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + <a href="#link2HCH0005"> Chapter V. </a> + </td> + <td> + Toboggon-ing + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + <a href="#link2HCH0006"> Chapter VI. </a> + </td> + <td> + Buying a run + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + <a href="#link2HCH0007"> Chapter VII. </a> + </td> + <td> + "Buying a run"—continued + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + <a href="#link2HCH0008"> Chapter VIII. </a> + </td> + <td> + Looking for a congregation + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + <a href="#link2HCH0009"> Chapter IX. </a> + </td> + <td> + Another shepherd's hut + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + <a href="#link2HCH0010"> Chapter X. </a> + </td> + <td> + Swaggers + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + <a href="#link2HCH0011"> Chapter X. </a> + </td> + <td> + Changing servants + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + <a href="#link2HCH0012"> Chapter XII. </a> + </td> + <td> + Culinary troubles + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + <a href="#link2HCH0013"> Chapter XIII. </a> + </td> + <td> + Amateur Servants + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + <a href="#link2HCH0014"> Chapter XIV. </a> + </td> + <td> + Our pets + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + <a href="#link2HCH0015"> Chapter XV. </a> + </td> + <td> + A feathered pet + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + <a href="#link2HCH0016"> Chapter XVI. </a> + </td> + <td> + Doctoring without a diploma + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + <a href="#link2HCH0017"> Chapter XVII. </a> + </td> + <td> + Odds and ends + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + </td> + </tr> + </table> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_PREF" id="link2H_PREF"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <h2> + Preface. + </h2> + <p> + The interest shown by the public in the simple and true account of + every-day life in New Zealand, published by the author three years ago, + has encouraged her to enlarge upon the theme. This volume is but a + continuation of "Station Life," with this difference: that whereas that + little book dwelt somewhat upon practical matters, these pages are + entirely devoted to reminiscences of the idler hours of a settler's life. + </p> + <p> + Many readers have friends and relations out in those beautiful distant + islands, and though her book should possess no wider interest, the author + hopes that these at least will care to know exactly what sort of life + their absent dear ones are leading. One thing is certain: that few books + can ever have afforded so much pleasure to their authors, or can have + appeared more completely to write themselves, than "Station Life," and + this, its sequel. + </p> + <p> + M. A. B. <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <h2> + Chapter I: A Bush picnic. + </h2> + <p> + Since my return to England, two years ago, I have been frequently asked by + my friends and acquaintances, "How did you amuse yourself up at the + station?" I am generally tempted to reply, "We were all too busy to need + amusement;" but when I come to think the matter over calmly and + dispassionately, I find that a great many of our occupations may be + classed under the head of play rather than work. But that would hardly + give a fair idea of our lives there, either. It would be more correct to + say perhaps, that most of our simple pleasures were composed of a solid + layer of usefulness underneath the froth of fun and frolic. I purpose + therefore in these sketches to describe some of the pursuits which + afforded us a keen enjoyment at the time,—an enjoyment arising from + perfect health, simple tastes, and an exquisite climate. + </p> + <p> + It will be as well to begin with the description of one of the picnics, + which were favourite amusements in our home, nestled in a valley of the + Malvern Hills of Canterbury. These hills are of a very respectable height, + and constitute in fact the lowest slopes of the great Southern Alps, which + rise to snow-clad peaks behind them. Our little wooden homestead stood at + the head of a sunny, sheltered valley, and around it we could see the + hills gradually rolling into downs, which in their turn were smoothed out, + some ten or twelve miles off, into the dead level of the plains. The only + drawback to the picturesque beauty of these lower ranges is the absence of + forest, or as it is called there, bush. Behind the Malvern Hills, where + they begin to rise into steeper ascents, lies many and many a mile of + bush-clad mountain, making deep blue shadows when the setting sun brings + the grand Alpine range into sharp white outline against the background of + dazzling Italian sky. But just here, where my beloved antipodean home + stood, we had no trees whatever, except those which we had planted + ourselves, and whose growth we watched with eager interest. I dwell a + little upon this point, to try to convey to any one who may glance at + these pages, how we all,—dwellers among tree-less hills as we were,—longed + and pined for the sights and sounds of a "bush." + </p> + <p> + Quite out of view from the house or garden, and about seven miles away, + lay a mountain pass, or saddle, over a range, which was densely wooded, + and from whose highest peak we could see a wide extent of timbered + country. Often in our evening rides we have gone round by that saddle, in + spite of a break-neck track and quicksands and bogs, just to satisfy our + constant longing for green leaves, waving branches, and the twitter of + birds. Whenever any wood was wanted for building a stockyard, or slabbing + a well, or making a post-and-rail fence around a new paddock, we were + obliged to take out a Government license to cut wood in this splendid + bush. Armed with the necessary document the next step was to engage + "bushmen," or woodcutters by profession, who felled and cut the timber + into the proper lengths, and stacked it neatly in a clearing, where it + could get dry and seasoned. These stacks were often placed in such + inaccessible and rocky parts of the steep mountain side, that they had to + be brought down to the flat in rude little sledges, drawn by a bullock, + who required to be trained to the work, and to possess so steady and + equable a disposition as to be indifferent to the annoyance of great logs + of heavy wood dangling and bumping against his heels as the sledge pursued + its uneven way down the bed of a mountain torrent, in default of a better + road. + </p> + <p> + Imagine, then, a beautiful day in our early New Zealand autumn. For a week + past, a furious north-westerly gale had been blowing down the gorges of + the Rakaia and the Selwyn, as if it had come out of a funnel, and sweeping + across the great shelterless plains with irresistible force. We had been + close prisoners to the house all those days, dreading to open a door to go + out for wood or water, lest a terrific blast should rush in and whip the + light shingle roof off. Not an animal could be seen out of doors; they had + all taken shelter on the lee-side of the gorse hedges, which are always + planted round a garden to give the vegetables a chance of coming up. On + the sky-line of the hills could be perceived towards evening, mobs of + sheep feeding with their heads <i>up</i>-wind, and travelling to the high + camping-grounds which they always select in preference to a valley. The + yellow tussocks were bending all one way, perfectly flat to the ground, + and the shingle on the gravel walk outside rattled like hail against the + low latticed windows. The uproar from the gale was indescribable, and the + little fragile house swayed and shook as the furious gusts hurled + themselves against it. Inside its shelter, the pictures were blowing out + from the walls, until I expected them to be shaken off their hooks even in + those rooms which had plank walls lined with papered canvas; whilst in the + kitchen, store-room, etc., whose sides were made of cob, the dust blew in + fine clouds from the pulverized walls, penetrating even to the dairy, and + settling half an inch thick on my precious cream. At last, when our skin + felt like tightly drawn parchment, and our ears and eyes had long been + filled with powdered earth, the wind dropped at sunset as suddenly as it + had risen five days before. We ventured out to breathe the dust-laden + atmosphere, and to look if the swollen creeks (swollen because snow-fed) + had done or threatened to do any mischief, and saw on the south-west + horizon great fleecy masses of cloud driving rapidly up before a chill icy + breeze. Hurrah, here comes a sou'-wester! The parched-up earth, the + shrivelled leaves, the dusty grass, all needed the blessed damp air. In an + hour it was upon us. We had barely time to house the cows and horses, to + feed the fowls, and secure them in their own shed, and to light a roaring + coal (or rather lignite, for it is not true coal) fire in the + drawing-room, when, with a few warning splashes, the deluge of cold rain + came steadily down, and we went to sleep to the welcome sound of its + refreshing patter. + </p> + <p> + All that I have been describing was the weather of the past week. + Disagreeable as it might have been, it was needed in both its hot and + cold, dry and wet extremes, to make a true New Zealand day. The furious + nor'-wester had blown every fleck of cloud below the horizon, and dried + the air until it was as light as ether. The "s'utherly buster," on the + other hand, had cooled and refreshed everything in the most delicious way, + and a perfect day had come at last. What words can describe the pleasure + it is to inhale such an atmosphere? One feels as if old age or sickness or + even sorrow, could hardly exist beneath such a spotless vault of blue as + stretched out above our happy heads. I have often been told that this + feeling of intense pleasure on a fine day, which is peculiar to New + Zealand, is really a very low form of animal enjoyment. It may be so, but + I only know that I never stood in the verandah early in the morning of + such a day as I am trying to sketch in pen and ink now, without feeling + the highest spiritual joy, the deepest thankfulness to the loving Father + who had made His beautiful world so fair, and who would fain lead us + through its paths of pleasantness to a still more glorious, home, which + will be free from the shadows brooding from beneath sin's out-stretched + wings over this one. As I stood in the porch I have often fancied I could + seethe animals and even the poultry expressing in dumb brute fashion, + their joy and gratitude to the God from whom all blessings flow. + </p> + <p> + But to return to the verandah, although we have never left it. Presently F—— + came out, and I said with a sigh, born of deep content and happiness, + "What a day!" "Yes," answered F——: "a heavenly day indeed: + well worth waiting for. I want to go and see how the men are getting on in + the bush. Will you like to come too?" "Of course I will. What can be more + enchanting than the prospect of spending such sunny hours in that glorious + bush?" So after breakfast I give my few simple orders to the cook, and + prepare, to pack a "Maori kit," or flat basket made of flax, which could + be fastened to my side-saddle, with the preparations for our luncheon. + First some mutton chops had to be trimmed and prepared, all ready to be + cooked when we got there. These were neatly folded up in clean paper; and + a little packet of tea, a few lumps of white sugar, a tiny wooden + contrivance for holding salt and pepper, and a couple of knives and forks, + were added to the parcel. + </p> + <p> + So much for the contents of the basket. They needed to be carefully packed + so as not to rattle in any way, or Helen, my pretty bay mare, would soon + have got rid of the luncheon—and me. I wrapped up three or four + large raw potatoes in separate bits of paper, and slipped them into F——'s + pockets when he was looking another way, and then began the real + difficulty of my picnic: how was the little tin tea-pot and an odd delf + cup to be carried? F—— objected to put them also in his + pocket, assuring me that I could make very good tea by putting my packet + of the fragrant leaves into the bushmen's kettle, and drinking it + afterwards out of one of their pannikins. He tried to bribe me to this + latter piece of simplicity by promising to wash the tin pannikin out for + me first. Now I was not dainty or over particular; I could not have + enjoyed my New Zealand life so thoroughly if I had been either; but I did + not like the idea of using the bushmen's tea equipage. In the first place, + the tea never tastes the same when made in their way, and allowed to boil + for a moment or two after the leaves have been thrown in, before the + kettle is taken off the fire; and in the next place, it is very difficult + to drink tea out of a pannikin; for it becomes so hot directly we put the + scalding liquid into it, that long after the tea is cool enough to drink, + the pannikin still continues too hot to touch. But I said so pathetically, + "You know how wretched I am without my tea," that F——'s heart + relented, and he managed to stow away the little teapot and the cup. That + cup bore a charmed life. It accompanied me on all my excursions, escaping + unbroken; and is, I believe, in existence now, spending its honoured old + age in the recesses of a cupboard. + </p> + <p> + After the luncheon, the next question to be decided is, which of the dogs + are to join the expedition. Hector, of course; he is the master's colley, + and would no more look at a sheep, except in the way of business, than he + would fly. Rose, a little short-haired terrier, was the most fascinating + of dog companions, and I pleaded hard for her, as she was an especial pet; + though there were too many lambs belonging to a summer lambing (in New + Zealand the winter is the usual lambing season) in the sheltered paddocks + beneath the bush, to make it quite safe for her to be one of the party. + She would not kill or hurt a lamb on any account, but she always appeared + anxious to play with the little creatures; and as her own spotless coat + was as white as theirs, she often managed to get quite close to a flock of + sheep before they perceived that she belonged to the dreaded race of dogs. + When the timid animals found out their mistake, a regular stampede used to + ensue; and it was not supposed to be good for the health of the old or + young sheep to hurry up the hill-sides in such wild fashion as that in + which they rushed away from Rose's attempts to intrude on their society. + Nettle may come, for he is but a tiny terrier, and so fond of his mistress + that he never strays a yard away from her horse's heels. Brisk, my + beautiful, stupid water-spaniel, is also allowed an outing. He is perfect + to look at, but not having had any educational advantages in his youth, is + an utter fool; amiable, indeed, but not the less a fool. Garibaldi, + another colley, is suffering a long penal sentence of being tied up to his + barrel, on account of divers unlawful chases after sheep which were not + wanted; and dear old Jip, though she pretends to be very anxious to + accompany us; is far too fat and too rheumatic to keep pace with our long + stretching gallop up the valley. + </p> + <p> + At last we were fairly off about eleven o'clock, and an hour's easy + canter, intersected by many "flat-jumps," or rather "water-jumps," across + the numerous creeks, brought unto the foot of the bush-clad mountain. + After that our pace became a very sober one, as the track resembled a + broken rocky staircase more than a bridle-path. But such as it was, our + sure-footed horses carried us safely up and down its rugged steeps, + without making a single false step. No mule can be more sure-footed than a + New Zealand horse. He will carry his rider anywhere, if only that rider + trusts entirely to him, nor attempts to guide him in any way. During the + last half-hour of our slow and cat-like climb, we could hear the ring of + the bushmen's axes, and the warning shouts preceding the crashing fall of + a Black Birch. Fallen logs and deep ruts made by the sledges in their + descent, added to the difficulties of the track; and I was so + faint-hearted as to entreat piteously, on more than one occasion, when + Helen paused and shook her head preparatory to climbing over a barricade, + to be "taken off." But F—— had been used to these dreadful + roads for too many years to regard them in the same light as I did, and + would answer carelessly, "Nonsense: you're as safe as if you were sitting + in an arm-chair." All I can say is, it might have been so, but I did not + feel at all like it. + </p> + <p> + However, the event proved him to have been right, and we reached the + clearing in safety. Here we dismounted, and led the horses to a place + where they could nibble some grass, and rest in the cool shade. The + saddles and bridles were soon removed, and halters improvised out of the + New Zealand flax, which can be turned to so many uses. Having provided for + the comfort of our faithful animals, our next step was to look for the + bushmen. The spot which we had reached was their temporary home in the + heart of the forest, but their work was being carried on elsewhere. I + could not have told from which side the regular ringing axe-strokes + proceeded, so confusing were the echoes from the cliffs around us; but + after a moment's silent pause F—— said, "If we follow that + track (pointing to a slightly cleared passage among the trees) we shall + come upon them." So I kilted up my linsey skirt, and hung up my little + jacket, necessary for protection against the evening air, on a bough out + of the wekas' reach, whilst I followed F—— through tangled + creepers, "over brake, over brier," towards the place from whence the + noise of falling trees proceeded. By the time we reached it, our scratched + hands and faces bore traces of the thorny undergrowth which had barred our + way; but all minor discomforts were forgotten in the picturesque beauty of + the spot. Around us lay the forest-kings, majestic still in their + overthrow, whilst substantial stacks of cut-up and split timber witnessed + to the skill and industry of the stalwart figures before us, who reddened + through their sunburn with surprise and shyness at seeing a lady. They + need not have been afraid of me, for I had long ago made friends with + them, and during the preceeding winter had established a sort of + night-school in my dining-room, for all the hands employed on the station, + and these two men had been amongst my most constant pupils. One of them, a + big Yorkshire-man, was very backward in his "larning," and though he + plodded on diligently, never got beyond the simplest words in the largest + type. Small print puzzled him at once, and he had a habit of standing or + sitting with his back to me whilst repeating his lessons. Nothing would + induce him to face me. The moment it became his turn to go on with the + chapter out of the Bible, with which we commenced our studies, that + instant he turned his broad shoulders towards me, and I could only, hear + the faintest murmurs issuing from the depths of a great beard. + Remonstrance would have scared my shy pupil away, so I was fain to put up + with his own method of instruction. + </p> + <p> + But this is a digression, and I want to make you see with my eyes the + beautiful glimpses of distant country lying around the bold wooded cliff + on which we were standing. The ground fell away from our feet so + completely in some places, that we could see over the tops of the high + trees around us, whilst in others the landscape appeared framed in an arch + of quivering foliage. A noisy little creek chattered and babbled as it + hurried along to join its big brother down below, and kept a fringe of + exquisite ferns, which grew along its banks, brightly green by its + moisture. Each tree, if taken by itself, was more like an umbrella than + anything else to English eyes, for in these primitive forests, where no + kind pruning hand has ever touched them, they shoot up, straight and + branchless, into the free air above, where they spread a leafy crown out + to the sunbeams. Beneath the dense shade of these matted branches grew a + luxuriant shrubbery, whose every leaf was a marvel of delicate beauty, and + ferns found here a home such as they might seek elsewhere in vain. Flowers + were very rare, and I did not observe many berries, but these conditions + vary in different parts of the beautiful middle island. + </p> + <p> + That was a fair and fertile land stretching out before us, intersected by + the deep banks of the Rakaia, with here and there a tiny patch of emerald + green and a white dot, representing the house and English grass paddock of + a new settler. In the background the bush-covered mountains rose ever + higher and higher in bolder outline, till they shook off their leafy + clothing, and stood out in steep cliffs and scaurs from the snow-clad + glacier region of the mountain range running from north to south, and + forming the back bone of the island. I may perhaps make you see the + yellow, river-furrowed plains, and the great confusion of rising ground + behind them, but cannot make you see, still less feel, the atmosphere + around, quivering in a summer haze in the valley beneath, and stirred to + the faintest summer wind-sighs as it moved among the pines and birches + overhead. Its lightness was its most striking peculiarity. You felt as if + your lungs could never weary of inhaling deep breaths of such an air. Warm + without oppression, cool without a chill. I can find nothing but paradoxes + to describe it. As for fatigue, one's muscles might get tired, and need + rest, but the usual depression and weariness attending over-exertion could + not exist in such an atmosphere. One felt like a happy child; pleased at + nothing, content to exist where existence was a pleasure. + </p> + <p> + You could not find more favourable specimens of New Zealand colonists than + the two men, Trew and Domville, who stood before us in their working dress + of red flannel shirts and moleskin trousers, "Cookham" boots and digger's + plush hats. Three years before this day they had landed at Port Lyttleton, + with no other capital than their strong, willing arms, and their sober, + sensible heads. Very different is their appearance to-day from what it was + on their arrival; and the change in their position and circumstances is as + great. Their bodily frames have filled out and developed under the + influence of the healthy climate and abundance of mutton, until they look + ten years younger and twice as strong, and each man owns a cottage and + twenty acres of freehold land, at which he works in spare time, as well as + having more pounds than he ever possessed pence in the old country, put + safely away in the bank. There can be no doubt about the future of any + working man or woman in our New Zealand colonies. It rests in their own + hands, under God's blessing, and the history of the whole human race shows + us that He always has blessed honest labour and rightly directed efforts + to do our duty in this world. Sobriety and industry are the first + essentials to success. Possessing these moral qualifications, and a pair + of hands, a man may rear up his children in those beautiful distant lands + in ignorance of what hunger; or thirst, or grinding poverty means. + Hitherto the want of places of worship, and schools for the children, have + been a sad drawback to the material advantages of colonization at the + Antipodes; but these blessings are increasing every day, and the need of + them creates the supply. + </p> + <p> + The great mistake made in England, next to that of sending out worthless + idle paupers, who have never done a hand's turn for themselves here, and + are still less likely to do it elsewhere, is for parents and guardians to + ship off to New Zealand young men who have received the up-bringing and + education of gentlemen, without a shilling in their pockets, under the + vague idea that something will turn up for them in a new place. There is + nothing which can turn up, for the machinery of civilization is reduced to + the most primitive scale in these countries; and I have known 500 pounds + per annum regarded as a monstrous salary to be drawn by a hard-worked + official of some twenty years standing and great experience in the colony. + From this we may judge of the chances of remunerative employment for a raw + unfledged youth, with a smattering of classical learning. At first they + simply "loaf" (as it is called there) on their acquaintances and friends. + At the end of six months their clothes are beginning to look shabby; they + feel they <i>ought</i> to do something, and they make day by day the + terrible discovery that there is nothing for them to do in their own rank + of life. Many a poor clergyman's son, sooner than return to the home which + has been so pinched to furnish forth his passage money and outfit, takes a + shepherd's billet, though he generally makes a very bad shepherd for the + first year or two; or drives bullocks, or perhaps wanders vaguely over the + country, looking for work, and getting food and lodging indeed, for + inhospitality is unknown, but no pay. Sometimes they go to the diggings, + only to find that money is as necessary there as anywhere, and that they + are not fitted to dig in wet holes for eight or ten hours a day. Often + these poor young men go home again, and it is the best thing they can do, + for at least they have gained some knowledge of life, on its dark as well + as its brighter side. But still oftener, alas, they go hopelessly to the + bad, degenerating into billiard markers, piano players at dancing saloons, + cattle drivers, and their friends probably lose sight of them. + </p> + <p> + Once I was riding with my husband up a lovely gulley, when we heard the + crack of a stockwhip, sounding strangely through the deep eternal silence + of a New Zealand valley, and a turn of the track showed us a heavy, + timber-laden bullock-waggon labouring slowly along. At the head of the + long team sauntered the driver, in the usual rough-and-ready costume, with + his soft plush hat pulled low over his face, and pulling vigorously at a + clay pipe. In spite of all the outer surroundings, something in the man's + walk and dejected attitude struck my imagination, and I made some remark + to my companion. The sound of my voice reached the bullock-driver's ears; + he looked up, and on seeing a lady, took his pipe out of his mouth, his + hat off his head, and forcing his beasts a little aside, stood at their + head to let us pass. I smiled and nodded, receiving in return a perfect + and profound bow, and the most melancholy glance I have ever seen in human + eyes. "Good gracious, F——," I cried, when we had passed, "who + is that man?" "That is Sir So-and-So's third son," he replied: "they sent + him out here without a shilling, five years ago, and that is what he has + come to: a working man, living with working men. He looks heart-broken, + poor fellow, doesn't he?" I, acting upon impulse, as any woman would have + done, turning back and rode up to him, finding it very difficult to frame + my pity and sympathy in coherent words. "No thank you, ma'am," was all the + answer I could get, in the most refined, gentlemanly tone of voice: "I'm + very well as I am. I should only have the struggle all over again if I + made any change now. It is the truest kindness to leave me alone." He + would not even shake hands with me; so I rode back; discomfited, to hear + from F—— that he had made many attempts to befriend him, but + without success. "In fact," concluded F——, with some + embarrassment, "he drinks dreadfully, poor fellow. Of course that is the + secret of all his wretchedness, but I believe despair drove him to it in + the first instance." + </p> + <p> + I have also known an ex-dragoon officer working as a clerk in an + attorney's office at fifteen shillings a week, who lived like a mechanic, + and yet spake and stepped like his old self; one listened involuntarily + for the clink of the sabre and spur whenever he moved across the room. + </p> + <p> + This has been a terrible digression, almost a social essay in fact; but I + have it so much at heart to dissuade fathers and mothers from sending + their sons so far away without any certainty of employment. Capitalists, + even small ones, do well in New Zealand: the labouring classes still + better; but there is no place yet for the educated gentleman without + money, and with hands unused to and unfit for manual labour and the + downward path is just as smooth and pleasant at first there, as anywhere + else. + </p> + <p> + Trew and Domville soon got over their momentary shyness, and answered my + inquiries about their families. Then I had a short talk with them, but on + the principle that it is "ill speaking to a fasting man," we agreed to + adjourn to the clearing, where they had built a rough log hut for + temporary shelter, and have our dinner. They had provided themselves with + some bacon; but were very glad to accept of F——'s offer of + mutton, to be had for the trouble of fetching it. When we reached the + little shanty, Trew produced some capital bread, he had baked the evening + before in a camp-oven; F——'s pockets were emptied of their + load of potatoes, which were put to roast in the wood embers; rashers of + bacon and mutton chops spluttered and fizzed side-by-side on a monster + gridiron with tall feet, so as to allow it to stand by itself over the + clear fire, and we turned our chops from time to time by means of a fork + extemporized out of a pronged stick. + </p> + <p> + Over another fire, a little way to leeward, hung the bushmen's kettle on + an iron tripod, and, so soon as it boiled, my little teapot was filled + before Domville threw in his great fist-full of tea. I had brought a tiny + phial of cream in the pocket of my saddle, but the men thought it spoiled + the flavour of the tea, which they always drink "<i>neat</i>," as they + call it. The Temperance Society could draw many interesting statistics + from the amount of hard work which is done in New Zealand on tea. Now, I + am sorry to say, beer is creeping up to the stations, and is served out at + shearing time and so on; but in the old days all the hard work used to be + done on tea, and tea alone, the men always declaring they worked far + better on it than on beer. "When we have as much good bread and mutton as + we can eat," they would say, "we don't feel to miss the beer we used to + drink in England;" and at the end of a year or two of tea and + water-drinking, their bright eyes and splendid physical condition showed + plainly enough which was the best kind of beverage to work, and work hard + too, upon. + </p> + <p> + So there we sat round the fire: F—— with the men, and I, a + little way off, out of the smoke, with the dogs. Overhead, the sunlight + streamed down on the grass which had sprung up, as it always does in a + clearing; the rustle among the lofty tree tops made a delicious murmur + high up in the air; a waft of cool breeze flitted past us laden with the + scent of newly-cut wood (and who does not know that nice, <i>clean</i> + perfume?); innumerable paroquets almost brushed us with their + emerald-green wings, whilst the tamer robin or the dingy but melodious + bell-bird came near to watch the intruders. The sweet clear whistle of the + tui or parson-bird—so called from his glossy black suit and white + wattles curling exactly where a clergy-man's bands would be,—could + be heard at a distance; whilst overhead the soft cooing of the wild + pigeons, and the hoarse croak of the ka-ka or native parrot, made up the + music of the birds' orchestra. Ah, how delicious it all was,—the + Robinson Crusoe feel of the whole thing; the heavenly air, the fluttering + leaves, the birds' chirrups and whistle, and the foreground of happy, + healthy men! + </p> + <p> + Rose and I had enough to do, even with Nettle's assistance, in acting as + police to keep off those bold thieves, the wekas, who are as impudent as + they are tame and fearless. In appearance they resemble exactly a stout + hen pheasant, without its long tail; but they belong to the apterix + family, and have no wings, only a tiny useless pinion at each shoulder, + furnished with a claw like a small fish-hook: what is the use of this claw + I was never able to discover. When startled or hunted, the weka glides, + for it can scarcely be called running, with incredible swiftness and in + perfect silence, to the nearest cover. A tussock, a clump of flax, a tuft + of tall tohi grass, all serve as hiding-places; and, wingless as she is, + the weka can hold her own very well against her enemies, the dogs. I + really believe the great desire of Brisk's life was to catch a weka. He + started many, but used to go sniffing and barking round the flax bush + where it had taken refuge at first, long after the clever, cunning bird + had glided from its shelter to another cover further off. + </p> + <p> + After dinner was over and Domville had brought back the tin plates and + pannikins from the creek where he had washed them up, pipes were lighted, + and a few minutes smoking served to rest and refresh the men, who had been + working since their six o'clock breakfast. The daylight hours were too + precious however to be wasted in smoking. Trew and Domville would not have + had that comfortable nest-egg standing in their name at the bank in + Christchurch, if they had spent much time over their pipes; so after a + very short "spell" they got up from the fallen log of wood which had + served them for a bench, and suggested that F—— should + accompany them back to where their work lay. "You don't mind being left?" + asked F——. "Certainly not," replied I. "I have got the dogs + for company, and a book in my pocket. I daresay I shall not read much, + however, for it is so beautiful to sit here and watch the changing lights + and shadows." + </p> + <p> + And so it was, most beautiful and thoroughly delightful. I sat on the + short sweet grass, which springs upon the rich loam of fallen leaves the + moment sunlight is admitted into the heart of a bush. No one plants it; + probably the birds carry the seeds; yet it grows freely after a clearing + has been made. Nature lays down a green sward directly on the rich virgin + mould, and sets to work besides to cover up the unsightly stems and holes + of the fallen timber with luxuriant tufts of a species of hart's-tongue + fern, which grows almost as freely as an orchid on decayed timber. I was + so still and silent that innumerable forest birds came about me. A wood + pigeon alighted on a branch close by, and sat preening her radiant plumage + in a bath of golden sunlight. The profound stillness was stirred now and + then by a soft sighing breeze which passed over the tree tops, and made + the delicate foliage of the undergrowth around me quiver and rustle. I had + purposely scattered the remains of our meal in a spot where the birds + could see the crumbs, and it was not long before the clever little + creatures availed themselves of the unexpected feast. So perfectly tame + and friendly were they, that I felt as if I were the intruder, and bound + by all the laws of aerial chivalry to keep the peace. But this was no easy + matter where Rose and Nettle were concerned, for when an imprudent weka + appeared on the sylvan scene, looking around-as if to say, "Who's afraid?" + it was more than I could do to keep the little terriers from giving chase. + Brisk, too, blundered after them, but I had no fear of his destroying the + charm of the day by taking even a weka's life. + </p> + <p> + Thus the delicious afternoon wore on, until it was time to boil the kettle + once more, and make a cup of tea before setting out homewards. The + lengthening shadows added fresh tenderness and beauty to the peaceful + scene, and the sky began to paint itself in its exquisite sunset hues. It + has been usual to praise the tints of tropic skies when the day is + declining; but never, in any of my wanderings to East and West Indies, + have I seen such gorgeous evening colours as those which glorify New + Zealand skies. + </p> + <p> + A loud coo-ee summoned F—— to tea, and directly afterwards the + horses were re-saddled, the now empty flax basket filled with the + obnoxious teapot and cup, wrapped in many layers of flax leaves, to + prevent their rattling, and we bade good night to the tired bushmen. We + left them at their tea, and I was much struck to observe that though they + looked like men who had done a hard day's work, there was none of the + exhaustion we often see in England depicted on the labouring man's face. + Instead of a hot crowded room, these bushmen were going to sleep in their + log hut, where the fresh pure air could circulate through every nook and + cranny. They had each their pair of red blankets, one to spread over a + heap of freshly cut tussocks, which formed a delicious elastic mattrass, + and the other to serve as a coverlet. During the day these blankets were + always hung outside on a tree, out of the reach of the most investigating + weka. You may be sure I had not come empty-handed in the way of books and + papers, and my last glance as I rode away rested on Trew opening a number + of <i>Good Words</i> [Note: <i>Evening Hours</i> was not in existence at + that time, or else its pages are just what those simple God-fearing men + would have appreciated and enjoyed. <i>Good Words</i> and the <i>Leisure + Hour</i> used to be their favourite periodicals, and the kindness of + English friends kept me also well supplied with copies of Miss Marsh's + little books, which were read with the deepest and most eager interest.] + with the pleased-expression of a child examining a packet of toys. + </p> + <p> + And so we rode slowly home through the delicious gloaming, with the + evening air cooled to freshness so soon as the sun had sunk below the + great mountains to the west, from behind which he shot up glorious rays of + gold and crimson against the blue ethereal sky, causing the snowy peaks to + look more exquisitely pure from the background of gorgeous colour. During + the flood of sunlight all day, we had not perceived a single fleck of + cloud; but now lovely pink wreaths, floating in mid-air, betrayed that + here and there a "nursling of the sky" lingered behind the cloud-masses + which we thought had all been blown away yesterday. + </p> + <p> + The short twilight hour was over, and the stars were filtering their soft + radiance on our heads by the time we heard the welcoming barks of the + homestead, and saw the glimmer of the lighted lamp in our sitting-room, + shining out of the distant gloom. And so ended, in supper and a night of + deep dreamless sleep, one of the many happy picnic days of my New Zealand + life. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter II: Eel-fishing. + </h2> + <p> + One of the greatest drawbacks in an English gentleman's eyes to living in + New Zealand is the want of sport. There is absolutely none. There used to + be a few quails, but they are almost extinct now; and during four years' + residence in very sequestered regions I only saw one. Wild ducks abound on + some of the rivers, but they are becoming fewer and shyer every year. The + beautiful Paradise duck is gradually retreating to those inland lakes + lying at the foot of the Southern Alps, amid glaciers and boulders which + serve as a barrier to keep back his ruthless foe. Even the heron, once so + plentiful on the lowland rivers, is now seldom seen. As I write these + lines a remorseful recollection comes back upon me of overhanging cliffs, + and of a bend in a swirling river, on whose rapid current a beautiful + wounded heron—its right wing shattered—drifts helplessly round + and round with the eddying water, each circle bringing it nearer in-shore + to our feet. I can see now its bright fearless eye, full of suffering, but + yet unconquered: its slender neck proudly arched, and bearing up the small + graceful head with its coronal or top-knot raised in defiance, as if to + protest to the last against the cruel shot which had just been fired. I + was but a spectator, having merely wandered that far to look at my + eel-lines, yet I felt as guilty as though my hand had pulled the trigger. + Just as the noble bird drifted to our feet,—for I could not help + going down to the river's edge, where Pepper (our head shepherd) stood, + looking very contrite,—it reared itself half out of the water, with + a hissing noise and threatening bill, resolved to sell its liberty as + dearly as it could; but the effort only spread a brighter shade of crimson + on the waters surface for a brief moment, and then, with glazing eye and + drooping crest, the dying creature turned over on its side and was borne + helpless to our feet. By the time Pepper extended his arm and drew it in, + with the quaint apology, "I'm sorry I shot yer, old feller! I, am, + indeed," the heron was dead; and that happened to be the only one I ever + came across during my mountain life. Once I saw some beautiful red-shanks + flying down the gorge of the Selwyn, and F—— nearly broke his + neck in climbing the crag from whence one of them rose in alarm at the + noise of our horses' feet on the shingle. There were three eggs in the + inaccessible cliff-nest, and he brought me one, which I tried in vain to + hatch under a sitting duck. Betty would not admit the intruder among her + own eggs, but resolutely pushed it out of her nest twenty times a day, + until at last I was obliged to blow it and send it home to figure in a + little boy's collection far away in Kent. + </p> + <p> + I have seen very good blue duck shooting on the Waimakiriri river, but 50 + per cent. of the birds were lost for want of a retriever bold enough to + face that formidable river. Wide as was the beautiful reach, on whose + shore the sportsmen stood, and calmly as the deep stream seemed to glide + beneath its high banks, the wounded birds, flying low on the water, had + hardly dropped when they disappeared, sucked beneath by the strong + current, and whirled past us in less time than it takes one to write a + line. We had retrievers with us who would face the waves of an inland lake + during a nor'-wester,—which is giving a dog very high praise indeed; + but there was no canine Bayard at hand to brave those treacherous depths, + and bring out our game, so the sport soon ceased; for what was the good of + shooting the beautiful, harmless creatures when we could not make use of + them as food? + </p> + <p> + I often accompanied F—— on his eel-fishing expeditions, but + more for the sake of companionship than from any amusement I found in the + sport. I may here confess frankly that I cannot understand anyone being an + inveterate eel-fisher, for of all monotonous pursuits, it is the most + self-repeating in its forms. Even the first time I went out I found it + delightful only in anticipation; and this is the one midnight excursion + which I shall attempt to re-produce for you. + </p> + <p> + It had been a broiling midsummer day, too hot to sit in the verandah, too + hot to stroll about the garden, or go for a ride, or do anything in fact, + except bask like a lizard in the warm air. New Zealand summer weather, + however high the thermometer, is quite different from either tropical or + English heat. It is intensely hot in the sun, but always cool in the + shade. I never heard of an instance of sun-stroke from exposure to the + mid-day sun, for there always was a light air—often scarcely + perceptible until you were well out in the open,—to temper the + fierce vertical rays. It sometimes happened that I found myself obliged, + either for business or pleasure, to take a long ride in the middle of a + summer's day, and my invariable reflection used to be, "It is not nearly + so hot out of doors as one fancies it would be." Then there is none of the + stuffiness so often an accompaniment to our brief summers, bringing + lassitude and debility in its train. The only disadvantage of an unusually + hot season with us was, that our already embrowned complexions took a + deeper shade of bronze; but as we were all equally sun-burnt there was no + one to throw critical stones. + </p> + <p> + What surprised me most was the utter absence of damp or miasma. After a + blazing day, instead of hurrying in out of reach of poisonous vapours as + the tropic-dweller must needs do, we could linger bare-headed, lightly + clad, out of doors, listening to the distant roar of a river, or watching + the exquisite tints of the evening sky. I dwell on this to explain that in + almost any other country there would have been risk in remaining out at + night after such still, hot days. + </p> + <p> + On this particular evening, during my first summer in the New Zealand + Malvern Hills, after we had watered my pet flowers near the house, and + speculated a good deal as to whether the mignonette seed had all been + blown out of the ground by the last nor'-wester or not, F—— + said, "I shall go eel-fishing to-night to the creek, down the flat. Why + don't you come too? I am sure you would like it." Now, I am sorry to say + that I am such a thorough gipsy in my tastes that any pursuit which serves + as an excuse for spending hours in the open air, is full of attraction for + me; consequently, I embraced the proposal with ardour, and set about + gathering, under F——'s directions, what seemed to bid fair to + rival the collection of an old rag-and-bottle merchant. First of all, + there was a muster of every empty tin match-box in the little house; these + were to hold the bait-bits of mutton and worms. Then I was desired to hunt + up all the odds and ends of worsted which lurked in the scrap-basket. A + forage next took place in search of string, but as no parcels were ever + delivered in that sequestered valley, twine became a precious and rare + treasure. In default of any large supply being obtainable, my lamp and + candle-wick material was requisitioned by F—— (who, by the + way, is a perfect Uhlan for getting what he wants, when bent on a sporting + expedition); and lastly, one or two empty flour-sacks were called for. You + will see the use of this heterogeneous collection presently. + </p> + <p> + It was of no use starting until the twilight had darkened into a cloudy, + moonless night; so, after our seven o'clock supper, we adjourned into the + verandah to watch F—— make a large round ball, such as + children play with, out of the scraps of worsted with which I had + furnished him. Instead of cutting the wool into lengths, however, it was + left in loops; and I learned that this is done to afford a firm hold for + the sharp needle-like teeth of an inquisitive eel, who might be tempted to + find out if this strange round thing, floating near his hole, would be + good to eat. I was impatient as a child,—remember it was my first + eel-fishing expedition,—and I thought nine o'clock would never come, + for I had been told to go and dress at that hour; that is to say, I was to + change my usual station-costume, a pretty print gown, for a short linsey + skirt, strong boots and kangaroo-skin gaiters. F——, and our + cadet, Mr. U——, soon appeared, clad in shooting coats instead + of their alpaca costumes, and their trousers stuffed into enormous boots, + the upper leathers of which came beyond their knees. + </p> + <p> + "Are we going into the water?" I timidly inquired. + </p> + <p> + "Oh, no,—not at all: it is on account of the Spaniards." + </p> + <p> + No doubt this sounds very unintelligible to an English reader; but every + colonist who may chance to see my pages will shiver at the recollection of + those vegetable defenders of an unexplored region in New Zealand. Imagine + a gigantic artichoke with slender instead of broad leaves, set round in + dense compact order. They vary, of course, in size, but in our part of the + world four or six feet in circumference and a couple of feet high was the + usual growth to which they attained, though at the back of the run they + were much larger. Spaniards grow in clusters, or patches, among the + tussocks on the plains, and constitute a most unpleasant feature of the + vegetation of the country. Their leaves are as firm as bayonets, and taper + at the point to the fineness of a needle, but are not nearly so easily + broken as a needle would be. No horse will face them, preferring a jump at + the cost of any exertion, to the risk of a stab from the cruel points. The + least touch of this green bayonet draws blood, and a fall <i>into</i> a + Spaniard is a thing to be remembered all one's life. Interspersed with the + Spaniards are generally clumps of "wild Irishman," a straggling sturdy + bramble, ready to receive and scratch you well if you attempt to avoid the + Spaniard's weapons. Especially detrimental to riding habits are wild + Irishmen; and there are fragments of mine, of all sorts of materials and + colours, fluttering now on their thorny branches in out-of-the-way places + on our run. It is not surprising, therefore, that we guarded our legs as + well as we could against these foes to flesh and blood. + </p> + <p> + "We are rather early," said the gentlemen, as I appeared, ready and eager + to start; "but perhaps it is all the better to enable you to see the + track." They each flung an empty sack over their shoulders, felt in their + pockets to ascertain whether the matches, hooks, boxes of bait, etc., were + all there, and then we set forth. + </p> + <p> + At first it appeared as if we had stepped from the brightness of the + drawing-room into utter and pitchy blackness; but after we had groped for + a few steps down the familiar garden path, our eyes became accustomed to + the subdued light of the soft summer night. Although heavy banks of cloud,—the + general precursors of wind,—were moving slowly between us and the + heavens, the stars shone down through their rifts, and on the western + horizon a faint yellowish tinge told us that daylight was in no hurry to + leave our quiet valley. The mountain streams or creeks, which water so + well the grassy plains among the Malvern Hills, are not affected to any + considerable extent by dry summer weather. They are snow-fed from the high + ranges, and each nor'-wester restores many a glacier or avalanche to its + original form, and sends it flowing down the steep sides of yonder distant + beautiful mountains to join the creeks, which, like a tangled skein of + silver threads, ensure a good water supply to the New Zealand + sheep-farmer. In the holes, under steep overhanging banks, the eels love + to lurk, hiding from the sun's rays in cool depths, and coming out at + night to feed. There are no fish whatever in the rivers, and I fear that + the labours of the Acclimatization Society will be thrown away until they + can persuade the streams themselves to remain in their beds like more + civilised waters. At present not a month passes that one does not hear of + some eccentric proceeding on the part of either rivers or creeks. Unless + the fish are prepared to shift their liquid quarters at a moment's notice + they will find themselves often left high and dry on the deserted + shingle-bed. But eels are proverbially accustomed to adapt themselves to + circumstances, and a fisherman may always count on getting some if he be + patient. + </p> + <p> + About a mile down the flat, between very high banks, our principal creek + ran, and to a quiet spot among the flax-bushes we directed our steps. By + the fast-fading light the gentlemen set their lines in very primitive + fashion. On the crumbling, rotten earth the New Zealand flax, the <i>Phormium + tenax</i>, loves to grow, and to its long, ribbon-like leaves the + eel-fishers fastened their lines securely, baiting each alternate hook + with mutton and worms. I declared this was too cockney a method of + fishing, and selected a tall slender flax-stick, the stalk of last year's + spike of red honey-filled blossoms, and to this extempore rod I fastened + my line and bait. When one considers that the old whalers were accustomed + to use ropes made in the rudest fashion, from the fibre of this very + plant, in their deep-sea fishing for very big prey, it is not surprising + that we found it sufficiently strong for our purpose. I picked out, + therefore, a comfortable spot,—that is to say, well in the centre of + a young flax-bush, whose satiny leaves made the most elastic cushions + around me; with my flax-stick held out over what was supposed to be a + favourite haunt of the eels, and with Nettle asleep at my feet and a warm + shawl close to my hand, prepared for my vigil. "Don't speak or move," were + the gentlemen's last words: "the eels are all eyes and ears at this hour; + they can almost hear you breathe." Each man then took up his position a + few hundred yards away from me, so that I felt, to all intents and + purposes, absolutely alone. I am "free to confess," as our American + cousins say, that it was a very eerie sensation. It was now past ten + o'clock; the darkness was intense, and the silence as deep as the + darkness. + </p> + <p> + Hot as the day had been, the night air felt chill, and a heavy dew began + to fall, showing me the wisdom of substituting woollen for cotton + garments. I could see the dim outlines of the high hills, which shut in + our happy valley on all sides, and the smell of the freshly-turned earth + of a paddock near the house, which was in process of being broken up for + English grass, came stealing towards me on the silent air. The melancholy + cry of a bittern, or the shrill wail of the weka, startled me from time to + time, but there was no other sound to break the eternal silence. + </p> + <p> + As I waited and watched, I thought, as every one must surely think, with + strange paradoxical feelings, of one's own utter insignificance in + creation, mingled with the delightful consciousness of our individual + importance in the eyes of the Maker and Father of all. An atom among + worlds, as one feels, sitting there at such an hour and in such a spot, + still we remember with love and pride, that not a hair of our head falls + to the ground unnoticed by an Infinite Love and an Eternal Providence. The + soul tries to fly into the boundless regions of space and eternity, and to + gaze upon other worlds, and other beings equally the object of the Great + Creator's care; but her mortal wing soon droops and tires, and she is fain + to nestle home again to her Saviour's arms, with the thought, "I am my + Beloved's, and He is mine." That is the only safe beginning and end of all + speculation. It was very solemn and beautiful, that long dark night,—a + pause amid the bustle of every day cares and duties,—hours in which + one takes counsel with one's own heart, and is still. + </p> + <p> + Midnight had come and gone, when the sputter and snap of striking a match, + which sounded almost like a pistol shot amid the profound silence, told me + that one of the sportsmen had been successful. I got up as softly as + possible, wrapped my damp shawl round my still damper shoulders, and, + fastening the flax-stick securely in the ground, stole along the bank of + the creek towards the place where a blazing tussock, serving as a torch, + showed the successful eel-fisher struggling with his prize. Through the + gloom I saw another weird-looking figure running silently in the same + direction; for the fact was, we were all so cramped and cold, and, weary + of sitting waiting for bites which never came, that we hailed with delight + a break in the monotony of our watch. It did not matter now how much noise + we made (within moderate limits), for the peace of that portion of the + creek was destroyed for the night. Half-a-dozen eels must have banded + themselves together, and made a sudden and furious dash at the worsted + ball, which Mr. U—— had been dangling in front of their mud + hall-door for the last two hours. Just as he had intended, their long + sharp teeth became entangled in the worsted loops, and although he + declared some had broken away and escaped, three or four good-sized ones + remained, struggling frantically. + </p> + <p> + It would have been almost impossible for one man to lift such a weight + straight out of the water by a string; and as we came up and saw Mr. U——'s + agitated face in the fantastic flickering light of the blazing tussock, + which he had set on fire as a signal of distress, I involuntarily thought + of the old Joe Miller about the Tartar: "Why don't you let him go?" + "Because he has caught <i>me.</i>" It looked just like that. The furious + splashing in the water below, and Mr. U—— grasping his line + with desperate valour, but being gradually drawn nearer to the edge of the + steep bank each instant. "Keep up a good light, but not too much," cried F—— + to me, in a regular stage-whisper, as he rushed to the rescue. So I pulled + up one tussock after another by its roots,—an exertion which + resulted in upsetting me each time,—and lighted one as fast as its + predecessor burned out. They were all rather damp, so they did not flare + away too quickly. By the blaze of my grassy torches I saw F——first + seize Mr. U—— round the waist and drag him further from the + bank; but the latter called out, "It's my hands,—they have no skin + left: do catch hold, there's a good fellow." So the "good fellow" did + catch hold, but he was too experienced an eel-fisher to try to lift a + couple of dozen pounds weight of eels out of the water by a perpendicular + string; so he tied it to a flax-bush near, and, stooping down in order to + get some leverage over the bank, very soon drew the ball, with its slimy, + wriggling captives, out of the water. Just as he jerked it far on shore, + one or two of the creatures broke loose and escaped, leaving quite enough + to afford a most disgusting and horrible sight as they were shuffled and + poked into the empty flour-sack. + </p> + <p> + The sportsmen were delighted however, and departed to a fresh bend of the + creek, leaving me to find my way back to my original post. This would have + been difficult indeed, had not Nettle remained behind to guard my gloves, + which I had left in his custody. As I passed, not knowing I was so near + the spot, the little dog gave a low whimper of greeting, sufficient to + attract my attention and guide me to where he was keeping his faithful + watch and ward. I felt for my flax-stick and moved it ever so gently. A + sudden jerk and splash startled me horribly, and warned me that I had + disturbed an eel who was in the act of supping off my bait. In the + momentary surprise I suppose I let go, for certain it is that the next + instant my flax-stick was rapidly towed down the stream. + </p> + <p> + Instead of feeling provoked or mortified, it was the greatest relief to + know that my eel-fishing was over for the night, and that now I had + nothing to do except "wait till called for." So I took Nettle on my lap + and tried to abide patiently, but I had not been long enough in New + Zealand to have any confidence in the climate, and as I felt how damp my + clothes were, and recollected with horror my West Indian experiences of + the consequences of exposure to night air and heavy dew, my mind <i>would</i> + dwell gloomily on the prospect of a fever, at least. It seemed a long and + weary while before I perceived a figure coming towards me; and I am afraid + I was both cross and cold and sleepy by the time we set our faces + homewards. "I have only caught three," said F——. "How many + have you got?" "None, I am happy to say," I answered peevishly, "What + could Nettle and I have done with the horrible things if we had caught + any?" + </p> + <p> + The walk, or rather the stumble home, proved to be the worst part of the + expedition. Not a ray of starlight had we to guide us,—nothing but + inky blackness around and over us. We tried to make Nettle go first, + intending to follow his lead, and trusting to his keeping the track; but + Nettle's place was at my heels, and neither coaxing nor scolding would + induce him to forego it. A forlorn hope was nothing to the dangers of each + footstep. First one and then the other volunteered to lead the way, + declaring they could find the track. All this time we were trying to + strike the indistinct road among the tussocks, made by occasional wheels + to our house, but the marks, never very distinct in daylight, became + perfect will-o'-the-wisps at night. If we crossed a sheep-track we + joyfully announced that we had found the way, but only to be undeceived + the next moment by discovering that we were returning to the creek. + </p> + <p> + From time to time we fell into and over Spaniards, and what was left of + our clothes and our flesh the wild Irishmen devoured. We must have got + home somehow, or I should not be writing an account of it, at this moment, + but really I hardly know how we reached the house. I recollect that the + next day there was a great demand for gold-beater's skin, and + court-plaster, and that whenever F—— and Mr. U—— + had a spare moment during the ensuing week, they devoted themselves to + performing surgical operations on each other with a needle; and that I + felt very subdued and tired for a day or two. But there was no question of + fever or cold, and I was stared at when I inquired whether it was not + dangerous to be out all night in heavy dew after a broiling day. + </p> + <p> + We had the eels made into a pie by our shepherd, who assured me that if I + entrusted them to my cook she would send me up such an oily dish that I + should never be able to endure an eel again. He declared that the Maoris, + who seem to have rather a horror of grease, had taught him how to cook + both eels and wekas in such a way as to eliminate every particle of fat + from both. I had no experience of the latter dish, but he certainly kept + his word about the eels, for they were excellent. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter III: Pig-stalking. + </h2> + <p> + It was much too hot in summer to go after wild pigs. That was our winter's + amusement, and very good sport it afforded us, besides the pleasure of + knowing that we were really doing good service to the pastoral interest, + by ridding the hills around us of almost the only enemies which the sheep + have. If the squatter goes to look after his mob of ewes and lambs in the + sheltered slopes at the back of his run, he is pretty nearly certain to + find them attended by an old sow with a dozen babies at her heels. She + will follow the sheep patiently from one camping ground to another, + watching for a new-born and weakly lamb to linger behind the rest, and + then she will seize and devour it. Besides this danger, the presence of + pigs on the run keeps the sheep in an excited state. They have an uneasy + consciousness that their foes are looking after them, and they move + restlessly up and down the hills, not stopping to feed sufficiently to get + fat. If a sheep-farmer thinks his sheep are not in good condition, one of + the first questions he asks his shepherd is, "Are there any pigs about?" + Our run had a good many of these troublesome visitors on it, especially in + the winter, when they would travel down from the back country to grub up + acres on acres of splendid sheep pasture in search of roots. The only good + they do is to dig up the Spaniards for the sake of their delicious white + fibres, and the fact of their being able to do this will give a better + idea of the toughness of a wild pig's snout than anything else I can say. + </p> + <p> + It may be strange to English ears to hear a woman of tolerably peaceful + disposition, and as the advertisements in the <i>Times</i> so often state, + "thoroughly domesticated," aver that she found great pleasure in going + after wild pigs; but the circumstances of the ease must be taken into + consideration before I am condemned. First of all, it seemed terribly + lonely at home if F—— was out with his rifle all day. Next, + there was the temptation to spend those delicious hours of a New Zealand + winter's day, between ten and four, out of doors, wandering over hills and + exploring new gullies. And lastly, I had a firm idea that I was taking + care of F——. And so I was in a certain sense, for if his rifle + had burst, or any accident had happened to him, and he had been unable to + reach the homestead, we should never have known where to find him, and + days would probably have passed before every nook and corner of a run + extending over many thousand acres could have been thoroughly searched. + </p> + <p> + I had heard terrible stories of shepherds slipping down and injuring + themselves so that they could not move, and of their dead bodies being + only found after weeks of careful seeking. F—— himself + delighted to terrify me by descriptions of narrow escapes; and, as the + pigs had to be killed, I resolved to follow in the hunter's train. The + sport is conducted exactly like deer stalking, only it is much harder + work, and a huge boar is not so picturesque an object as a stag of many + tines, when you do catch sight of him. There is just the same accurate + knowledge needed of the animal's habits and customs, and the same untiring + patience. It is quite as necessary to be a good shot, for a grey pig + standing under the lee of a boulder of exactly his own colour is a much + more difficult object to hit from the opposite side of a ravine than a + stag; and a wild boar is every whit as keen of scent and sharp of eye and + ear as any antlered "Monarch of the Glen." + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> +Imagine then a beautiful winter's morning without wind or rain. There +has been perhaps a sharp frost over-night, but after a couple of hours +of sunshine the air is as warm and bright as midsummer. We used to be +glad enough of a wood fire at breakfast; but after that meal had been +eaten we went into the verandah, open to the north-east (our warm +quarter), which made a delicious winter parlour, and basked in the +blazing sunshine. I used often to bring out a chair and a table, and +work and read there all the morning, without either hat or jacket. But +it sometimes happened that once or twice a week, on just such a lovely +morning, F—— would proclaim his intention of going out to look for +pigs, and, sooner than be left behind, I nearly always begged to be +allowed to come too. There was no fear of my getting tired or lagging +behind; and as I was willing to make myself generally useful, by +carrying the telescope, a revolver for close quarters, and eke a few +sandwiches, the offer of my company used to be graciously accepted. We +could seldom procure the loan of a good pig-dog, and after one excursion +with a certain dog of the name of "Pincher," I preferred going out by +ourselves. + + On that occasion F—— did not take his rifle, as there was no +chance of getting a long shot at our game; for the dog would surely +bring the pig to bay, and then the hunter must trust to a revolver or +the colonial boar-spear, half a pair of shears (I suppose it should be +called <i>a shear</i>) bound firmly on a flax stick by green flax-leaves. We +had heard of pigs having been seen by our out-station shepherd at the +back of the run, and as we were not encumbered by the heavy rifle, we +mounted our horses and rode as far as we could towards the range where +the pigs had been grubbing up the hill sides in unmolested security for +some time past. Five miles from home the ground became so rough that +our horses could go no further; we therefore jumped off, tied them to +a flax-bush, taking off the saddles in case they broke loose, and +proceeded on foot over the jungly, over-grown saddle. On the other side +we came upon a beautiful gully, with a creek running through it, whose +banks were so densely fringed with scrub that we could not get through +to the stream, which we heard rippling amid the tangled shrubs. If we +could only have reached the water our best plan would have been to get +into it and follow its windings up the ravine; but even Pincher could +hardly squeeze and burrow through the impenetrable fence of matapo and +goi, which were woven together by fibres of a thorny creeper called "a +lawyer" by the shepherds. +</pre> + <p> + It was very tantalising, for in less than five minutes we heard trusty + Pincher "speaking" to a boar, and knew that he had baled it up against a + tree, and was calling to us to come and help him. F——ran about + like a lunatic, calling out; "Coming Pincher: round him up, good dog!" and + so forth; but they were all vain promises, for he could not get in. I did + my best in searching for an opening, and gave many false hopes of having + found one. At last I said, "If I run up the mountain side, and look down + on that mass of scrub, perhaps I may see some way into it from above." + "No: do you stay here, and see, if the pig breaks cover, which way he + goes." Up the steep hill, therefore, F—— rushed, as swiftly + and lightly as one of his own mountain sheep; and in a minute or two I saw + him standing, revolver in hand, on an overhanging rock, peering anxiously + down on the leafy mass below. + </p> + <p> + Pincher and the creek made such a noise between them that I could not hear + what F—— said, and only guessed from his despairing gestures + that there was no trap door visible in the green roof. I signalled as well + as I could that he was to come down directly, for his-standing-place + looked most insecure. Insecure indeed it proved. As I spoke the great + fragment of rock loosely embedded in earth on the mountain side gave way + with a crash, and came tumbling majestically down on the top of the scrub. + As for F——, he described a series of somersaults in the air, + which however agreeable in themselves, were very trying to the nerves of + the spectatrix below. My first dread was least the rock should crush him, + but to my great joy I saw at once that it was rolling slowly down the + hill, whilst F——'s vigorous bound off it as it gave way, had + carried him well into the middle of the leafy cushion beneath him, where + he presently landed flat on his back! + </p> + <p> + I expected every moment to hear the revolver go off, but mercifully it did + not do so; and as his thorny bed was hardly to be endured, F—— + soon kicked himself off it, and before I could realize that he was unhurt, + had scrambled to his feet, and was rushing off, crying in school-boy glee, + "That will fetch him out" That (the rock) certainly did fetch him (the + pig) out in a moment, and Pincher availed himself of the general confusion + to seize hold of his enemy's hind leg, which he never afterwards let go. + The boar kept snapping and champing his great tusks; but Pincher, even + with the leg in his mouth, was too active to be caught: so as the boar + found that it was both futile and undignified to try to run away with a + dog hanging on his hind-quarters, he tried another plan. Making for a + clump of Ti-ti palms he went to bay, and contrived to take up a very good + defensive position. Pincher would have never given up his mouthful of leg + if F—— had not called him off, for it seemed impossible to + fire the revolver whilst the dog held on. This change of tactics was much + against Pincher's judgment, and he kept rushing furiously in between F—— + and the boar. As for me, I prudently retired behind a big boulder, on + which I could climb if the worst came to the worst, and called out from + time to time, to both dog and man, "Oh, don't!" + </p> + <p> + They did not even hear me, for the din of battle was loud. The pig dodged + about so fast, that although F——'s bullets lodged in the palm + tree at his back, not one struck a vulnerable part, and at last F——, + casting his revolver behind him for me to pick up and reload, closed with + his foe, armed only with the shear-spear. Pincher considered this too + dangerous, and rushed in between them to distract the boar's attention. + Just as F—— aimed a thrust at his chest,—for it was of + no use trying to penetrate his hide,—the boar lowered his head, + caught poor faithful Pincher's exposed flank, and tore it open with his + razor-like tusk; but in the meantime the spear had gone well home into his + brawny chest, exactly beneath the left shoulder, and his life-blood came + gushing out. I was so infuriated at the sight of Pincher's frightful wound + that I felt none of my usual pity for the victim; and rushing up to F—— + with the revolver, of which only a couple of chambers were loaded, thrust + it into his hand with an entreaty to "kill him quickly." This F—— + was quite willing to do for his own sake, as a wounded boar is about the + most dangerous beast on earth; and although the poor brute kept snapping + at the broken flax-stick sticking in his heart, he fired a steady shot + which brought the pig on his knees, only to roll over dead the next + moment. + </p> + <p> + I cannot help pausing to say that I sewed up Pincher's wound then and + there, with some of the contents of my Cambusmore house-wife; which always + accompanied me on my sporting expeditions, and we carried him between us + down to where the horses were fastened. There I mounted; and F—— + lifting the faithful creature on my lap, we rode slowly home, dipping our + handkerchiefs in cold water at every creek we crossed, and laying them on + his poor flank. He was as patient and brave as possible, and bore his + sufferings and weakness for days afterwards in a way which was a lesson to + one, so grateful and gentle was he. His brave and sensible behaviour met + its due reward in a complete though slow recovery. + </p> + <p> + I have only left myself space for one little sketch more; but it comes so + vividly before me that I cannot shut it out. After a long day's walking, + over the hills and vallies, so beautiful beneath our azure winter-sky, + walking which was delightful as an expedition, but unsuccessful as to + sport, we crossed the track of a large boar. We knew he was old by his + being alone, and it was therefore very certain that he would show fight if + we came up with him. Patiently we followed the track over a low saddle, + through a clump of brushwood menuka, the broken twigs of which showed how + large an animal had just passed by. Here and there a freshly grubbed-up + Spaniard showed where he had paused for a snack; but at length we dropped + down on the river bed, with its wide expanse of shingle, and there we lost + all clue to our game. + </p> + <p> + After a little hesitation, F—— decided on climbing a high + cliff on the right bank of the river, and trying to catch a glimpse of + him. The opposite hill-side was gaunt and bare; a southern aspect shut out + the sun in winter, and for all its rich traces of copper ore, "Holkam's + Head" found no favour in the eyes of either shepherds or master. Grass + would not grow there except in summer, and its gray, shingly sides were an + eye-sore to its owner. We sat down on the cliff, and looked around + carefully. Presently F—— said, in a breathless whisper of + intense delight, "I see him." In vain I looked and looked, but nothing + could my stupid eyes discover. "Lie down," said F—— to me, + just as if I had been a dog. I crouched as low as possible, whilst F——settled + himself comfortably flat on his stomach, and prepared to take a careful + aim at the opposite side of the hill. + </p> + <p> + After what seemed a long time, he pulled his rifle's trigger, and the + flash and crack was followed apparently by one of the gray boulders + opposite leaping up, and then rolling heavily down the hill. F—— + jumped up in triumph crying, "Come along, and don't forget the revolver." + When we had crossed the river, reckless of getting wet to our waists in + icy-cold water, F—— took the revolver from me and went first; + but, after an instant's examination, he called out, "Dead as a door-nail! + come and look at him." So I came, with great caution, and a more repulsive + and disgusting sight cannot be imagined than the huge carcass of our + victim already stiffening in death. The shot had been a fortunate one, for + only an inch away from the hole the bullet had made his shoulders were + regularly plated with thick horny scales, off which a revolver bullet + would have glanced harmlessly, and he bore marks of having fought many and + many a battle with younger rivals. His huge tusks were notched and broken, + and he had evidently been driven out from among his fellows as a + quarrelsome member of their society. Already the keen-eyed hawks were + hovering above the great monster, and we left him to his fate in the + solitary river gorge, where all was bleak and cold and gloomy,—a + fitting death-place for the fierce old warrior. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter IV: Skating in the back country. + </h2> + <p> + I do not believe that even in Canada the skating can be better than that + which was within our reach in the Malvern Hills. Among our sheltered + valleys an sunny slopes the hardest frost only lasted a few hour after + dawn; but twenty-five miles further back, on the border of the glacier + region, the mountain tarns could boast of ice several feet thick all the + winter. We heard rumours of far-inland lakes, across which heavily-laden + bullock-teams could pass in perfect safety for three months of the year, + and we grumbled at the light film over our own large ponds, which would + not bear even my little terrier's weight after mid-day: and yet it was + cold enough at night, during our short bright winters, to satisfy the most + icy-minded person. I think I have mentioned before that the wooden houses + in New Zealand, especially those roughly put together up-country, are by + no means weather-tight. Disagreeable as this may be, it is doubtless the + reason of the extraordinary immunity from colds and coughs which we + hill-dwellers enjoyed. Living between walls formed by inch-boards + over-lapping each other, and which can only be made to resemble English + rooms by being canvassed and papered inside, the pure fresh air finds its + way in on all sides. A hot room in winter is an impossibility, in spite of + drawn curtains and blazing fires, therefore the risk of sudden changes of + temperature is avoided. + </p> + <p> + Some such theory as this is absolutely necessary to account for the + wonderfully good health enjoyed by all, in the most capricious and trying + climate I have ever come across. When a strong nor'-wester was howling + down the glen, I have seen the pictures on my drawing-room walls blowing + out to an angle of 45 degrees, although every door and window in the + little low wooden structure had been carefully closed for hours. It has + happened to me more than once, on getting up in the morning, to find my + clothes, which had been laid on a chair beneath my bedroom window + overnight, completely covered by powdered snow, drifting in through the + ill-fitting casement. This same window was within a couple of feet of my + bed, and between me and it was neither curtain nor shelter of any sort. Of + a winter's evening I have often been obliged to wrap myself up in a big + Scotch maud, as I sat, dressed in a high linsey gown, by a blazing fire, + so hard was the frost outside; but by ten o'clock next morning I would be + loitering about the verandah, basking in the sunshine, and watching the + light flecks of cloud-wreaths and veils floating against an Italian-blue + sky. Yet such is the inherent discontent of the human heart, that instead + of rejoicing in this lovely mid-day sunshine, we actually mourned over the + vanished ice which at daylight had been found, by a much-envied early + riser, strong enough to slide on for half an hour. It seemed almost + impossible to believe that any one had been sliding that morning within a + few feet of where I sat working in a blaze of sunshine, with my pretty + grey and pink Australian parrot pluming itself on the branch of a silver + wattle close by, and "Joey," the tiny monkey from Panama, sitting on the + skirt of my gown, with a piece of its folds arranged by himself shawl-wise + over his glossy black shoulders. If either of these tropical pets had been + left out after four o'clock that sunny day, they, would have been frozen + to death before our supper time. + </p> + <p> + It was just on such a day as this, and in just such a bright mid-day hour, + that a distant neighbour of ours rode up to the garden gate, leading a + pack horse. Outside the saddle-bags, with which this animal was somewhat + heavily laden, could be plainly seen a beautiful new pair of Oxford + skates, glinting in the sunshine; and it must have been the sight of these + beloved implements which called forth the half-envious remark from one of + the gentlemen, "I suppose you have lots of skating up at your place?" + </p> + <p> + "Well, not exactly at my station, but there is a capital lake ten miles + from my house where I am sure of a good day's skating any time between + June and August," answered Mr. C. H——, our newly arrived + guest. + </p> + <p> + We all looked at each other. I believe I heaved a deep sigh, and dropped + my thimble, which "Joey" instantly seized, and with a low chirrup of + intense delight, commenced to poke down between the boards of the + verandah. It was too bad of us to give such broad hints by looks if not by + words. Poor Mr. C. H—— was a bachelor in those days: he had + not been at his little out-of-the-way homestead for some weeks, and was + ignorant of its resources in the way of firing (always an important matter + at a station), or even of tea and mutton. He had no woman-servant, and was + totally unprepared for an incursion of skaters; and yet,—New Zealand + fashion,—no sooner did he perceive that we were all longing and + pining for some skating, than he invited us all most cordially to go up to + his back-country run the very next day, with him, and skate as long as we + liked. This was indeed a delightful prospect, the more especially as it + happened to be only Monday, which gave us plenty of time to be back again + by Sunday, for our weekly service. We made it a rule never to be away from + home on that day, lest any of our distant congregation should ride their + twenty miles or so across country and find us absent. + </p> + <p> + When the host is willing and the guests eager, it does not take long to + arrange a plan, so the next morning found three of us, besides Mr. C. H—— + mounted and ready to start directly after breakfast. I have often been + asked how I managed in those days about toilette arrangements, when it was + impossible to carry any luggage except a small "swag," closely packed in a + waterproof case and fastened on the same side as the saddle-pocket. First + of all I must assure my lady readers that I prided myself on turning out + as neat and natty as possible at the end of the journey, and yet I rode + not only in my every-day linsey gown, which could be made long or short at + pleasure, but in my crinoline. This was artfully looped up on the right + side and tied by a ribbon, in such a way that when I came out ready + dressed to mount, no one in the world could have guessed that I had on any + <i>cage</i> beneath my short riding habit with a loose tweed jacket over + the body of the dress. Within the "swag" was stowed a brush and comb, + collar, cuffs and handkerchiefs, a little necessary linen, a pair of + shoes, and perhaps a ribbon for my hair if I meant to be very smart. On + this occasion we all found that our skates occupied a terribly large + proportion both of weight and space in our modest kits, but still we were + much too happy to grumble. + </p> + <p> + Where could you find a gayer quartette than started at an easy canter up + the valley that fresh bracing morning? From the very first our faces were + turned to the south-west, and before us rose the magnificent chain of the + Southern Alps, with their bold snowy peaks standing out in a glorious + dazzle against the cobalt sky. A stranger, or colonially speaking, a "new + chum," would have thought we must needs cross that barrier-range before we + could penetrate any distance into the back country, but we knew of long + winding vallies and gullies running up between the giant slopes, which + would lead us, almost without our knowing how high we had climbed, up to + the elevated but sheltered plateau among the back country ranges where Mr. + C. H——'s homestead stood. There was only one steep saddle to + be crossed, and that lay between us and Rockwood, six miles off. It was + the worst part of the journey for the horses, so we had easy consciences + in dismounting and waiting an hour when we reached that most charming and + hospitable of houses. I had just time for one turn round the beautiful + garden, where the flowers and shrubs of old England grew side by side with + the wild and lovely blossoms of our new island home, when the expected + coo-e rang out shrill and clear from the rose-covered porch. It was but + little past mid-day when we made our second start, and set seriously to + work over fifteen miles of fairly good galloping ground. This distance + brought us well up to the foot of a high range, and the last six miles of + the journey had to be accomplished in single file, and with great care and + discretion, for the track led through bleak desolate vallies, round the + shoulder of abutting spurs, through swamps, and up and down rocky + staircases. Mr. C. H—— and his cob both knew the way well + however, and my bay mare Helen had the cleverest legs and the wisest as + well as prettiest head of her race. If left to herself she seldom made a + mistake, and the few tumbles she and I ever had together, took place only + when she found herself obliged to go my way instead of her own. We entered + the gorges of the high mountains between us and the west, and soon lost + the sun; even the brief winter twilight faded away more swiftly than usual + amid those dark defiles; and it was pitch dark, though only five o'clock, + when we heard a sudden and welcome clamour of dog voices. + </p> + <p> + These deep-mouthed tones invariably constitute the first notes of a + sheep-station's welcome; and a delightful sound it is to the belated and + bewildered traveller, for besides guiding his horse to the right spot, the + noise serves to bring out some one to see who the traveller may be. On + this occasion we heard one man say to the other, "It's the boss:" so + almost before we had time to dismount from our tired horses (remember they + had each carried a heavy "swag" besides their riders), lights gleamed from + the windows of the little house, and a wood fire sparkled and sputtered on + the open hearth. Mr. C. H—— only just guided me to the door of + the sitting-room, making an apology and injunction together,—"Its + very rough I am afraid: but you can do what you like;"—before he + hastened back to assist his guests in settling their horses comfortably + for the night. Labour used to be so dear and wages so high, especially in + the back country of New Zealand, that the couple of men,—one for + indoor work, to saw wood, milk, cook, sweep, <i>wash</i>, etc., and the + other to act as gardener, groom, ploughman, and do all the numerous odd + jobs about a place a hundred miles and more from the nearest shop,—represented + a wage-expenditure of at least 200 pounds a year. Every gentleman + therefore as a matter of course sees to his own horse when he arrives + unexpectedly at a station, and I knew I should have at least half an hour + to myself. + </p> + <p> + The first thing to do was to let down my crinoline, for I could only walk + like a crab in it when it was fastened up for riding, kilt up my linsey + gown, take off my hat and jacket, and set to work The curtains must be + drawn close, and the chairs moved out from their symmetrical positions + against the wall; then I made an expedition into the kitchen, and won the + heart of the stalwart cook, who was already frying chops over the fire, by + saying in my best German, "I have come to help you with the tea." Poor + man! it was very unfair, for Mr. C. H—— had told me during our + ride that his servitor was a German, and I had employed the last long hour + of the journey in rubbing up my exceedingly rusty knowledge of that + language, and arranging one or two effective sentences. Poor Karl's + surprise and delight knew no bounds, and he burst forth into a long + monologue, to which I could find no readier answers than smiles and nods, + hiding my inability to follow up my brilliant beginning under the pretence + of being very busy. By the time the gentlemen had stabled and fed the + horses and were ready, Karl and I between us had arranged a bright cosy + little apartment with a capital tea-dinner on the table. After this meal + there were pipes and toddy, and as I could not retire, like Mrs. Micawber + at David Copperfield's supper party, into the adjoining bedroom and sit by + myself in the cold, I made the best of the somewhat dense clouds of smoke + with which I was soon surrounded, and listened to the fragmentary plans + for the next day. Then we all separated for the night, and in two minutes + I was fast asleep in a little room no bigger than the cabin of a ship, + with an opossum rug on a sofa for my bed and bedding. + </p> + <p> + It was cold enough the next morning, I assure you: so cold that it was + difficult to believe the statement that all the gentlemen had been down at + daybreak to bathe in the great lake which spread like an inland sea before + the bay-window of the little sitting room. This lake, the largest of the + mountain chain, never freezes, on account partly of its great depth, and + also because of its sunny aspect. Our destination lay far inland, and if + we meant to have a good long day's skating we must start at once. Such a + perfect day as it was! I felt half inclined to beg off the first day on + the ice, and to spend my morning wandering along the rata-fringed shores + of Lake Coleridge, with its glorious enclosing of hills which might fairly + be called mountains; but I feared to seem capricious or lazy, when really + my only difficulty was in selecting a pleasure. The sun had climbed well + over the high barriers which lay eastwards, and was shining brightly down + through the quivering blue ether overhead; the frost sparkled on every + broad flax-blade or slender tussock-spine, as if the silver side of earth + were turned outwards that winter morning. + </p> + <p> + No sooner had we mounted (with no "swag" except our skates this time) than + Mr. C. H—— set spurs to his horse, and bounded over the + slip-rail of the paddock before Karl could get it down. We were too + primitive for gates in those parts: they only belonged to the civilization + nearer Christchurch; and I had much ado to prevent my pony from following + his lead, especially as the other gentlemen were only too delighted to get + rid of some of their high spirits by a jump. However Karl got the top rail + down for me, and "Mouse" hopped over the lower one gaily, overtaking the + leader of the expedition in a very few strides. We could not keep up our + rapid pace long; for the ground became terribly broken and cut up by + swamps, quicksands, blind creeks, and all sorts of snares and pit-falls. + Every moment added to the desolate grandeur of the scene. Bleak hills rose + up on either hand, with still bleaker and higher peaks appearing beyond + them again. An awful silence, unbroken by the familiar cheerful sound of + the sheep calling to each other,—for even the hardy merino cannot + live in these ranges during the winter months,—brooded around us, + and the dark mass of a splendid "bush," extending over many hundred acres, + only added to the lonely grandeur of the scene. We rode almost the whole + time in a deep cold shade, for between us and the warm sun-rays were such + lofty mountains that it was only for a few brief noontide moments he could + peep over their steep sides. + </p> + <p> + After two hour's riding, at the best pace which we could keep up through + these terrible gorges, a sharp turn of the track brought us full in view + of our destination. I can never forget that first glimpse of Lake Ida. In + the cleft of a huge, gaunt, bare hill, divided as if by a giant hand, lay + a large <i>black</i> sheet of ice. No ray of sunshine ever struck it from + autumn until spring, and it seemed impossible to imagine our venturing to + skate merrily in such a sombre looking spot. But New-Zealand sheep farmers + are not sentimental I am afraid. Beyond a rapid thought of + self-congratulation that such "cold country" was not on <i>their</i> run, + they did not feel affected by its eternal silence and gloom. The ice would + bear, and what more could skater's heart desire? At the end of the dark + tarn, nearest to the track by which we had approached it, stood a neat + little hut; and judge of my amazement when, as we rode up to it, a young + gentleman, looking as if he was just going out for a day's deer-stalking, + opened the low door and came out to greet us. Yes, here was one of those + strange anomalies peculiar to the colonies. A young man, fresh from his + University, of refined tastes and cultivated intellect, was leading here + the life of a boor, without companionship or appreciation of any sort. His + "mate" seemed to be a rough West countryman, honest and well meaning + enough, but utterly unsuited to Mr. K——. It was the old story, + of wild unpractical ideas hastily carried out. Mr. K—— had + arrived in New Zealand a couple of years before, with all his worldly + wealth,—1,000 pounds. Finding this would not go very far in the + purchase of a good sheep-run, and hearing some calculations about the + profit to be derived from breeding cattle, based upon somebody's lucky + speculation, he eagerly caught at one of the many offers showered upon + unfortunate "new chums," and bought the worst and bleakest bit of one of + the worst and bleakest runs in the province. The remainder of his money + was laid out in purchasing stock; and now he had sat down patiently to + await, in his little hut, until such time as his brilliant expectations + would be realized. I may say here they became fainter and fainter year by + year, and at last faded away altogether; leaving him at the end of three + lonely, dreadful years with exactly half his capital, but double his + experience. However this has nothing to do with my story, except that I + can never think of our skating expedition to that lonely lake, far back + among those terrible hills, without a thrill of compassion for the only + living human being, who dwelt among them. + </p> + <p> + It was too cold to dawdle about, however, that day. The frost lay white + and hard upon the ground, and we felt that we were cruel in leaving our + poor horses standing to get chilled whilst we amused ourselves. Although + my beloved Helen was not there, having been exchanged for the day in + favour of Master Mouse, a shaggy pony, whose paces were as rough as its + coat, I begged a red blanket from Mr. K——, and covered up + Helen's stable companion, whose sleek skin spoke of a milder temperature + than that on Lake Ida's "gloomy shore." Our simple arrangements were soon + made. Mr. K—— left directions to his mate to prepare a repast + consisting of tea, bread, and mutton for us, and, each carrying our + skates, we made the best of our way across the frozen tussocks to the + lake. Mr. K—— proved an admirable guide over its surface, for + he was in the habit during the winter of getting all his firewood out of + the opposite "bush," and bringing it across the lake on sledges drawn by + bullocks. We accused him of having cut up our ice dreadfully by these + means; but he took us to a part of the vast expanse where an unbroken + field of at least ten acres of ice stretched smoothly before us. Here were + no boards marked "DANGEROUS," nor any intimation of the depth of water + beneath. The most timid person could feel no apprehension on ice which + seemed more solid than the earth; so accordingly in a few moments we had + buckled and strapped on our skates, and were skimming and gliding—and + I must add, falling—in all directions. We were very much out of + practice at first, except Mr. K——, who skated every day, + taking short cuts across the lake to track a stray heifer or explore a + blind gully. + </p> + <p> + I despair of making my readers see the scene as I saw it, or of conveying + any adequate idea of the intense, the appalling loneliness of the spot. It + really seemed to me as if our voices and laughter, so far from breaking + the deep eternal silence, only brought it out into stronger relief. On + either hand rose up, shear from the waters edge, a great, barren, shingly + mountain; before us loomed a dark pine forest, whose black shadows crept + up until they merged in the deep <i>crevasses</i> and fissures of the + Snowy Range. Behind us stretched the winding gullies by which we had + climbed to this mountain tarn, and Mr. K——'s little hut and + scrap of a garden and paddock gave the one touch of life, or possibility + of life, to this desolate region. In spite of all scenic wet blankets we + tried hard to be gay, and no one but myself would acknowledge that we + found the lonely grandeur of our "rink" too much for us. We skated away + perseveringly until we were both tired and hungry, when we returned to Mr. + K——'s hut, took a hasty meal, and mounted our chilled steeds. + Mr. C. H—— insisted on bringing poor Mr. K—— back + with us, though he was somewhat reluctant to come, alleging that a few + days spent in the society of his kind made the solitude of his + weather-board hut all the more dreary. The next day and yet the next we + returned to our gloomy skating ground, and when I turned round in my + saddle as we rode away on Friday evening, for a last look at Lake Ida + lying behind us in her winter black numbness, her aspect seemed more + forbidding than ever, for only the bare steep hill-sides could be seen; + the pine forest and white distant mountains were all blotted and blurred + out of sight by a heavy pall of cloud creeping slowly up. + </p> + <p> + "Let us ride fast," cried Mr. K——, "or we shall have a + sou'-wester upon us;" so we galloped home as quickly as we could, over + ground that I don't really believe I could summon courage to walk across, + ever so slowly, to-day,—but then one's nerves and courage are in + very different order out in New Zealand to the low standard which rules + for ladies in England, who "live at home in ease!" Long before we reached + home the storm was pelting us: my little jacket was like a white board + when I took it off, for the sleet and snow had frozen as it fell. I was + wet to the skin, and so numb with cold I could hardly stand when we + reached home at last in the dark and down-pour. I could only get my things + very imperfectly dried, and had to manage as best I could, but yet no one + even thought of making the inquiry next morning when I came out to + breakfast, "Have you caught cold?" It would have seemed a ridiculous + question. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter V: Toboggon-ing. + </h2> + <p> + I cannot resist the temptation to touch upon one of the winter amusements + which came to us two years later. Yet the word "amusement" seems out of + place, no one in the Province having much heart to amuse themselves, for + the great snow storm of August, 1867, had just taken place, and we were in + the first days of bewilderment at the calamity which had befallen us all. + A week's incessant snow-fall, accompanied by a fierce and freezing + south-west wind, had not only covered the whole of the mountains from base + to brow with shining white, through which not a single dark rock jutted, + but had drifted on the plains for many feet deep. Gullies had been filled + up by the soft, driving flakes, creeks were bridged over, and for three + weeks and more all communication between the stations and the various + townships was cut off. The full extent of our losses was unknown to us, + and dreary as were our forebodings of misfortune, none of us guessed that + snow to be the winding sheet of half a million of sheep. The magnificent + semi-circle of the Southern Alps stood out, for a hundred miles from north + to south, in appalling white distinctness, and no one in the whole Colony + had ever seen the splendid range thus free from fleck or flaw. We had done + all we could within working distance, but what was, the use of digging in + drifts thirty feet deep? Amidst, and almost above, the terrible anxiety + about our own individual safety,—for the snow was over the roof of + many of the station-houses,—came the pressing question, "Where are + the sheep?" A profound silence unbroken by bleat of lamb, or bark of dog, + or any sound of life, had reigned for many days, when a merciful + north-westerly gale sprung, up, and releasing the heavily-laden earth from + its white bondage, freed the miserable remnant of our flocks and herds. At + least, I should say, it freed those sheep which had travelled down to the + vallies, driven before the first pitiless gusts, but we knew that many + hundreds, if not thousands, of wethers must have been surprised and + imprisoned far back among the hills. + </p> + <p> + Such knowledge could not be acted upon, however, for no human being could + hope to plunge through the drifts around us. Old shepherds who had lived + on the run for fifteen years, confessed that they did not know their way + fifty yards from the homestead. The vallies were filled up, so that one + gully looked precisely like its fellow; rocks, scrub, Ti-ti palms, all our + local land-marks had disappeared; not a fence or gate could be seen in all + the country side. Here and there a long wave-like line in the smooth mass + would lead us to suppose that a wire fence lay buried beneath its curves, + but we had no means of knowing for certain. Near the house every shrub and + out-building, every hay-stack or wood-heap, had all been covered up, and + no man might even guess where they lay. + </p> + <p> + This had been the terrible state of things, and although the blessed warm + wind had removed our immediate and pressing fear of starvation, we could + not hope to employ ourselves in searching for our missing sheep for many + days to come. None of us had been able to take any exercise for more than + a fortnight, and having done all that could possibly be done near at hand, + F—— set to work to manufacture some sledges out of old + packing-cases. Quite close to the house, a hill sloped smoothly for about + 300 yards, at an angle of 40 degrees; along its side lay a perfectly level + and deep drift, which did not show any signs of thawing for more than a + month, and we resolved to use this as a natural <i>Montagne Russe</i>. The + construction of a suitable sledge was the first difficulty to be + surmounted, and many were the dismal failures and break-neck catastrophes + which preceded what we considered a safe and successful vehicle. Not only + was it immensely difficult to make, without either proper materials or + tools, a sledge which could hold two people (for F—— declared + it was no fun sleighing alone), but his "patent brakes" proved the most + broken of reeds to lean upon when the sledge was dashing down the steep + incline at the rate of a thousand miles an hour. + </p> + <p> + We nearly broke our necks more than once, and I look back now with + amazement to our fool-hardiness. How well I remember one expedition, when + F——, who had been hammering away in a shed all the morning, + came to find me sitting in the sun in the verandah, and to inform me that + at last he had perfected a conveyance which would combine speed with + safety. Undaunted by previous mishaps, I sallied forth, and in company + with Mr. U—— and F——, climbed painfully up the + high hill I have mentioned, by some steps which they had cut in the frozen + snow. Without some such help we could not have kept our footing for a + moment, and as long as I live I shall never forget the sensation of + leaving my friendly Alpenstock planted in the snow, and of seating myself + on that frail sledge. Perhaps I ought to describe it here. A board, about + six feet long by one foot broad, with sheet-iron nailed beneath it, and + curved upwards in front; on its upper surface a couple of battens were + fixed, one quite at the foremost end, and one half-way. That was F——'s + new patent sledge, warranted to go faster down an incline than any other + conveyance on the surface of the earth. I was the wretched "passenger," as + he called me, on more than one occasion, and I will briefly describe my + experiences. "Why did you go?" is a very natural question to arise in my + reader's mind; and sitting here at my writing-table, I feel as if I must + have been a lunatic to venture. But in those delicious wild days, no + enterprise seemed too rash or dangerous to engage in, from mounting a + horse which had never seen or felt the fluttering of a habit, to embarking + on the conveyance I have described above, and starting down a + mountain-side at the risk of a broken neck. + </p> + <p> + Well, to return to that terrible moment. I see the whole scene now. The + frail, rude sledge, with its breaks made out of a couple of standards from + a wire fence, connected by a strong iron chain; F——seated at + the back of the precious contrivance, firmly grasping a standard in each + hand; Mr. U—— clinging desperately to his Alpen-stock with one + hand, whilst with the other he helps me on to the board; and Nettle, my + dear little terrier, standing shivering on three legs, sniffing + distrustfully at the sledge. It is extremely difficult even to take one's + place on a board a dozen inches wide. My petticoats have to be firmly + wrapped around me, and care taken that no fold projects beyond the sledge, + or I should be soon dragged out of my frail seat. I fix my feet firmly + against the batten, and F—— cries, "Are you ready?" "Oh, not + yet!" I gasp, clinging to Mr. U——'s hand as if I never meant + to let it go. "Hold tight!" he shouts. Now what a mockery this injunction + was. I had nothing to hold on to except my own knees, and I clasped them + convulsively. Mr. U—— says, "You're all right now," and before + I can realize that he has let go my hand, before my courage is half-way up + to the necessary height, we are off. The breaks are slightly depressed for + the first few yards, in order to regulate our pace, and because there is a + tremendously steep pitch just at first. Once we have safely passed that he + tilts up the standards, and our sledge shoots like a meteor down the + perfectly smooth incline. I cannot draw my breath, we are going at such a + pace through the keen air; I give myself up for lost. We come to another + steep pitch near the bottom of the hill; F—— is laughing to + such a degree at me that he does not put down his breaks soon enough, and + loses control of the sledge. We appear to leap down the dip, and then the + sledge turns first one way and then the other, its zinc prow being + sometimes up-hill and some-times down. It seems wonderful that we keep on + the sledge, for we have no means of holding on except by pressing our feet + against the battens; yet in the grand and final upset at the bottom of the + hill, the sledge is there too, and we find we have never parted company + from it. + </p> + <p> + Will any one believe that after such a perilous journey, I could actually + be persuaded to try again? But so it was. At first the fright (for I was + really terrified) used to make me very cross, and I declared that I was + severely hurt, if not "kilt entirely;" but after I had shaken the snow out + of my linsey skirt, and discovered that beyond the damage to my nerves I + was uninjured, F—— was quite sure to try to persuade me to + make another attempt, and I was equally sure to yield to the temptation. + As well as my memory serves me, we only made one really successful + journey, and that was on an occasion when we kept the breaks down the + whole way. But I never could insure similar precautions being taken again, + and we consequently experienced every variety of mishaps possible to + sledge travellers. I persevered however for some days until the + north-westerly wind, which was blowing softly all the time, began to lay + bare the sharpest points of the rocks, and then I gave in at once, and + would not be a "passenger" any more. It was rather too much to strike + one's head against a jagged fragment of rock, or to dislocate one's thumb + against a concealed stump of a palm tree. Then the sharp points of the + Spaniards began to stick up through the softening snow, and nothing would + induce me to run the risk of touching their green bayonets. Besides which, + the fast-thawing snow made it very difficult to climb up to the top of our + hill, for the carefully-cut steps had disappeared long ago. So I gave up + sledge journeys on my own account, and used only to look at F—— + and Mr. U—— taking them. + </p> + <p> + These two persevered so long as an inch of snow remained on the hill-side. + Some of their adventures were very alarming, and certainly rather + dangerous. One afternoon I had been watching them for more than an hour, + and had seen them go through every variety of disaster, and capsize with + no further effect than increasing their desire for "one more" trial. On + the blind-side of the hill,—that is to say the side which gets + scarcely any sun in winter,—a deep drift of snow still lingered, + filling up a furrow made in former years by a shingle-slip. Thither the + two adventurous climbers dragged their sledge, and down the steep incline + they performed their perilous descent many a time. I became tired of + watching the board shoot swiftly over the white streak; and I strolled + round the shoulder of the hill, to see if there was any appearance of the + snow-fall lessening in the back country. + </p> + <p> + I must have been away about half an hour, and had made the circuit of the + little knoll which projected from the mountain side, returning to where I + expected to find sleigh and sleighers starting perhaps on just "one more" + journey. But no one was there, and a dozen yards or so from the usual + starting-point, the snow was a good deal ploughed up and stained in large + patches by blood. Here was an alarming spectacle, though the only wonder + was that a bad accident had not occurred before. I saw the sledge, + deserted and broken, near the end of the drift: of the passengers there + was neither sign nor token. I must say I was terribly frightened, but it + is useless in New Zealand to scream or faint; the only thing to do in an + emergency is to <i>coo-e</i>; and so, although my heart was thumping + loudly in my ears, and at first I could not produce a sound, I managed at + last, after many attempts, to muster up a loud clear <i>coo-e</i>. There + was the usual pause, whilst the last sharp note rang back from the + hill-sides, and vibrated through the clear silent air; and then, oh, + welcome sound! I heard a vigorous answer from our own flat where the + homestead stood. I set off down-hill as fast as I could, and had the joy, + when I turned the slope which had hidden our little house from my view, to + see F—— and Mr. U—— walking about; but even from + that distance I could see that poor Mr. U——'s head was + bandaged up, and as soon as I got near enough to hear, F——shouted + "I have broken my neck!" adding, "I am very hungry: let us go in to + supper." + </p> + <p> + Under the circumstances these words were consolatory; and when I came to + hear the story, this was the way the accident happened. As I mentioned + before, even this drift had thawed till it was soft at the surface and + worn away almost to the rocks. During a rapid descent the nose of the + sledge dipped through the snow, and stopped dead against a rock. Mr. U—— + was instantly buried in the snow, falling into a young but prickly + Spaniard, which assaulted him grievously; but F—— shot over + his head some ten yards, turned a somersault, and alit on his feet. This + sounds a harmless performance enough, but it requires practice; and F—— + declared that for weeks afterwards his neck felt twisted. The accident + must have looked very ridiculous: the sledge one moment gliding smoothly + along at the rate of forty miles an hour,—the next a dead stop, and + F——flying through the air over his passenger's head, finishing + feet first plump down in the soft snow. + </p> + <p> + Looking back on that time, I can remember how curiously soon the external + traces of the great snow-storm disappeared. For some weeks after the + friendly nor-wester, the air of the whole neighbourhood was tainted by + dead and decaying sheep and lambs; and the wire fences, stock-yard rails, + and every "coign of vantage," had to be made useful but ghastly by a + tapestry of sheep-skins. The only wonder was that a single sheep had + survived a storm severe enough to kill wild pigs. Great boars, cased in + hides an inch thick, had perished through sheer stress of weather; while + thin-skinned animals, with only a few months growth of fine merino wool on + their backs, had endured it all. It was well known that the actual + destruction of sheep was mainly owing to the two days of heavy rain which + succeeded the snow. Out of a flock of 13,000 of all ages, we lost, on the + lowest calculation, 1,000 grown sheep and nearly 3,000 lambs; and yet our + loss was small by comparison with that of our neighbours, whose runs were + further back among the hill, and less sheltered than our own. + </p> + <p> + Long before midsummer our cloud-shadowed hills were green once more; and I + think I see again their beautiful outlines, their steep sides planted with + semi-tropical palms and grasses, whilst the more distant peaks are veiled + in a sultry haze. During that peculiarly bright and lovely summer we often + ask each other, Could it have been true that no one knew one mountain from + the other, and that hills had been apparently levelled and vallies filled + up by the heaviest snow-fall ever known. But whilst the words were on our + lips, we could see a group of palm-trees, ten feet high, with their + topmost leaves gnawed to the stump by starving sheep, that must have been + standing on at least seven feet of snow to reach them; and there was + scarcely a creek on the run whose banks were not strewn, for many a long + day, by bare and bleaching bones. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter VI: Buying a run. + </h2> + <p> + Like many other people in the world, I have occasionally built castles in + the air, and equally of course they have invariably tumbled down in due + time with a crash This particular castle however, not only attained to a + great elevation in the visionary builder's eyes, but it covered so vast an + area of land, that the story of its rise and fall deserves to be placed on + record, as a warning to aerial architects and also as a beacon-light to + young colonists. + </p> + <p> + This was exactly the way it all happened. The new year of 186-found us + living very quietly and happily on a small compact sheep-farm, at the foot + of the Malvern Hills, in the province of Canterbury, New Zealand. As runs + went, its dimensions were small indeed; for we only measured it at 12,000 + acres, all told. The great tidal wave of prosperity, which sets once in a + while towards the shores of all colonies, had that year swelled and risen + to its full force; but this we did not know. Borne aloft upon its + unsubstantial crest we could not, from that giddy height, discern any + water-valleys of adversity or clouds of change and storm along the shining + horizon of the new world around us. All our calculations were based on the + assumption that the existing prices for sheep, wool, cattle, and all + farm-produce, would rule for many a long day; and the delightful part of + this royal road to wealth was, that its travellers need not exert + themselves in any way: they had only to sit still with folded hands whilst + their sheep increased, and it was well known that a flock doubled itself + in three short years. The obvious deduction from this agreeable numerical + fact was, that in an equally short period your agent's payments to your + bank account would also be doubled. In the meantime the drays were busy + carting the wool to the seaports as fast as they could be loaded, whilst + speculative drovers rode all about the country buying up the fat cattle + and wethers from every run. These were wanted to supply the West Coast + Diggings which had just "broken out" (as the curious phrase goes there), + and so was every description of grain and dairy produce. + </p> + <p> + We squatters were not the only inhabitants of this fool's paradise. The + local Government began planning extensive works: railways were laid out in + every direction, bridges planned across rivers, which proved the despair + of engineers; whilst a tunnel, the wonder of the Southern Hemisphere, was + commenced through a range of hills lying between Port Lyttleton and + Christchurch. All this work was undertaken on a scale of pay which made + the poor immigrants who thronged to the place by every ship, rub their + eyes and believe they must be dreaming, and that they would presently wake + up and find themselves back again in the old country, at the old + starvation rate of wages. Small capitalists, with perhaps only one or two + hundred pounds in the world, bid against each other as purchasers of + quarter-acre sections in the fast-springing townships, or of fifty-acre + lots of arable land in the projected suburbs. Subscriptions were raised + for building a Cathedral in Christchurch; but so dear was both labour and + material, that 7,000 pounds barely sufficed to lay its foundations. + </p> + <p> + The paramount anxiety in men's minds seemed to be to secure land. + Sheep-runs in sheltered accessible parts of the country commanded enormous + prices, and were bought in the most complicated way. The first comers had + taken up vast tracts of land in all directions from the Government, at an + almost nominal rental. This had happened quite in the dark and remote ages + of the history of the colony, at least ten or twelve years before the date + of which I write. As speculators with plenty of hard cash came down from + Australia, these original tenants sold, as it were, the good-will and + stock of their run at enormous prices; but what always seemed to me so + hard was, that after you had paid any number of thousand pounds for your + run, you might have to buy it all, or at any rate, some portion of it, + over again. Land could only be purchased freehold from the Government, for + 2 pounds an acre; and if a "cockatoo" (i.e., a small farmer), or a + speculator in mines, fancied any part of your property, he had only to go + to the land office, and challenge your pre-emptive rights. The officials + gave you notice of the challenge, and six weeks' grace in which to raise + the money, and buy it freehold yourself; but few sheep-farmers could + afford to pay a good many hundred pounds unexpectedly to secure even their + best "flats" or vallies. Hence it often happened that large runs in the + most favourable situations were cut up by small investors, "free + selectors" as they are called in Australia, and it used to be rather + absurd the way one grew to distrust any stranger who was descried riding + about the run. The poor man might be looking for a stray horse, or have + lost his way, but we always fancied he must be "prospecting" for either + gold or coals, or else be a "cockatoo" disguised as a traveller. + </p> + <p> + Such was the state of things when my story opens. Shearing was just over, + and we knew to a lamb how rapidly our flocks and herds were increasing. A + succession of mild winters and early genial springs had got the flock into + capital order. The wool had all been sent off to Christchurch by drays, + the sheep were turned out on the beautiful green hills for ten months of + perfect rest and peace; whilst the dogs, who had barked themselves quite + hoarse, were enabled to desist from their labours in mustering and + watching the yet unshorn mobs on the vallies. Although our run was as well + grassed and watered as any in the province, still it could not possibly + carry more than a certain number of sheep, and to that total our returns + showed that we were rapidly approaching. The most careful calculations + warned us that by next shearing we should hardly know what to do with our + sheep. It is always better to be under than overstocked, for the merino + gets out of condition immediately, and even the staple of the wool + deteriorates if its wearer be at all crowded on his feeding-grounds. + </p> + <p> + "You must take up more country directly," was the invariable formula of + the advice we, comparatively "new chums," received on all sides. This was + easier to say than to do. Turn which ever way we would, far back beyond + our own lovely vallies and green hills, back up to the bleak region of + glaciers, where miles of bush and hundreds of acres of steep hill-side, + formed the <i>back-est</i> of "back country," every inch of land was taken + up. No fear had those distant Squatters of "cockatoos," or even of miners; + for no one came their way who could possibly help it. Still we should have + been comparatively glad to buy such a run fifty or sixty miles further + back,—at the foot, in fact of the great Southern Alps,—just as + a summer feeding-ground for the least valuable portion of our flock. But + no one was inclined to part with a single acre, and we were forced to turn + our eyes in a totally different direction. + </p> + <p> + If my readers will refer to the accompanying map of New Zealand, and look + at the Middle or South Island, they will notice a long seaboard on the + eastern side of the island, stretching SS.W. for many hundred leagues. It + extends beyond the Province of Canterbury to that of Otago, and embraces + some of the most magnificent pastoral land in the settlement. Not only is + the soil rich and productive, but the climate is rather less windy than + with us in the northern portion of the island; and the capital of Otago + (Dunedin) had risen into comparative position and importance before + Christchurch,—was in short an elder sister of that pretty little + town. Most of the settlers in Otago were Scotchmen, and as there are no + better colonists anywhere, its prosperity had attained to a very + flourishing height. Gold-digging had also broken out at the foot of the + Dunstan range, so that Otago held her head quite as high, if not higher, + than her neighbour Canterbury. Of course all the first-class pasture-land + "down south," as it was called, had been taken up long before; but we + heard rumours of splendid sheep country, yet unappropriated, far back + towards the west coast of Otago, just where its boundary joined + Canterbury. + </p> + <p> + With our minds in this state of desire for what poor Mazzini used to + denounce as "territorial aggrandisement," we paid our usual post-shearing + visit to Christchurch. F—— had his agent's accounts to + examine, a nice little surplus of wool-money to receive, and many other + squatting interests to attend to; whilst I had to lay in chests of tea, + barrels of sugar and rice, hundreds of yards of candle-wick, flower-seeds, + reels of cotton, and many other miscellaneous articles. But through all + our pleasant, happy little bustle ran the constant thought: "What shall we + do for more country?" A day or two before the expiration of the week's + leave of absence which we always gave ourselves, F—— came into + my sitting-room at the hotel, flung down his hat on the table with an air + of triumph, and cried, "I've heard of such a splendid run! One hundred + thousand acres of beautiful sheep-country, and going for a mere song!" Now + I had lived long enough in the world to discover that one sometimes danced + on the wrong foot to the tune of these "mere songs," so I cautiously + inquired, "Where is it?" F—— seemed a little dashed that the + only question which he could not answer favourably should be the first I + asked, and he replied vaguely, "Well, it is rather a long way off, but I + am sure we can manage it." A little more sifting elicited the fact that + this "desirable investment" stretched along the shores of Lake Wanaka, + famous for its beautiful scenery, and was to be had for what certainly + seemed a ridiculously small sum;—only a few hundred pounds. "Of + course it has no sheep on it," added F——; "but that is all the + better. I'll burn it this year, and then turn some cattle on it, and after + next shearing we'll have a good mob of sheep to draft out and stock it." + He further added, that he had invited his man of business and the + individual who owned this magnificent property to dine with us that + evening, and that then I should hear all about it And I may truly say that + I <i>did</i> hear about it, for my brain reeled with figures and + calculations. By bedtime I was wondering if we could possibly spend the + enormous fortune which would be quite certain to accrue to us in a few + years if only we could make up our minds to invest the modest balance at + our bankers in this tempting bargain. I remember well that I found myself + wishing we were not going to be <i>quite</i> so rich; half our promised + income would have been ample, I thought. My anxieties on that score turned + out to have been, to say the least, premature. + </p> + <p> + Not to make my story too long, I may briefly say that after making due + allowance for the natural exaggeration of the owner, the run on Lake + Wanaka's shores seemed certainly to offer many attractions. Besides + thousands of acres of beautiful sheltered sheep country, it was said to + possess a magnificent bush, in which sawyers were already hard at work. Of + course all this timber would become our own, and we were to make so much a + year by selling it. "How about the carriage?" inquired F—— + cautiously, having visions of costly bullock-drays, and teams and drivers + at fabulous wages. "Oh, the lake is your highway," replied the would-be + seller, airily; "you have nothing to do but lash your felled trees + together, as they do in the mahogany-growing countries, and set them + afloat on the lake, they will thus form a natural raft, and cost you + little or nothing to get down to a good market. You know the Dunstan + diggings are just at the foot of the lake, and they haven't a stick there; + timber is very badly wanted in those parts, not only for fuel and + building, but also for slabbing the shafts which the miners sink." + </p> + <p> + By the time the coffee was served F—— had made up his mind to + buy the Lake Wanaka run; his business agent urging him strongly not to + hesitate for a moment in securing such a chance. The negotiations reached + thus far without the least hitch, but at this point F——said, + "Well, I'll tell you what I'll do: we will start in a day or two and go + straight up to this run and look round it, and if I find it anything like + so good as you both make it out, I'll buy it on the spot." + </p> + <p> + Never did that sociable little word "we" sound so delightful to my ears! + "Then I am to come too," I thought to myself, but I prudently concealed + from the company that I had ever had any misgivings on that point. + However, the company did not concern themselves with my doubts and fears, + for our two guests seemed much taken aback at this very matter-of-fact + proposal of F——'s. "That won't do at all, my dear fellow," + said the owner of the run; "I am going to England by the next mail + steamer, which you know sails next week, and the reason I am literally + giving away my property is that I don't want any suspense or bother. Take + it or leave it, just as you like. There's Wilkinson and Fairwright and a + lot of others all clamouring for the refusal of it, and I've only waited + to see if you really wanted it before closing with Fairwright. He is + walking about with a cheque all ready filled up in his pocket, and only + begging and praying me to let him have the run on my own terms. Why you + might be weather-bound or kept there for a month, and what shall I do + then? No, its all just as I've told you, and you can call it your own + to-morrow, but I can't possibly wait for you to go and look at it." No + words of mine can give any idea of the tone of scorn in which our guest + pronounced these last three words; as if looking at an intended purchase + was at once the meanest and most absurd thing in-the world. F—— + seemed half ashamed of himself for his proposal, but still he urged that + he never liked to take a leap in the dark, backing up his opinion by + several world-revered adages. "That's all very fine," chimed in our + precious business adviser," but this transaction can hardly be said to be + in the dark; here are the plans and the Government lease and the transfer + deeds, all regular and ready." With this he produced the plans, and then + it was all up with us. Who does not know the peculiar <i>smell</i> of + tracing-paper, with its suggestions of ownership? When these fresh and + crackling drawings were opened before us they resembled nothing so much as + a veritable paradise. There shone the lake—a brilliant patch of + cobalt blue, bordered by outlines of vivid green pasture and belts of + timber. Here and there, on the outskirts, we read the words, "proposed + township," "building lots," "probable gold fields," "saw mills." F—— + laid his hand down over a large wash of light green paint and asked," Now + what sort of country is this; really and truly, you know?" "First class + sheep country, I give you my word," replied the owner eagerly, "only wants + to be stocked for a year or two." + </p> + <p> + Why need I go on? It was the old, old story of misplaced confidence. + Neither F—— nor I could believe that our friends would + wilfully over-reach us, so it was settled that the first thing next + morning the money should be handed over and the Government lease + transferred to us. We decided that as we were so far on the way to our new + property, we would go and look at it before returning to the Malvern + Hills, and the next few days were very busy ones, as we had to arrange our + small domestic affairs, send up the dray, etc., etc. I felt rather anxious + at the postponement of our return home, for I had left several "clutches" + of eggs on the point of being hatched, and I had grave misgivings as to + the care my expected ducklings and chickens would receive at the lands of + my scatter-brained maid servants, to say nothing of the dangers besetting + them from hawks and rats. However, small interests must give way to great + ones, and F—— and I were already tasting the cares of + proprietorship. Our friend, the former owner of our new property, sailed + for England in the mail steamer, in high spirits, saying cordially as he + shook F——'s hand at parting, "Well you <i>have</i> got your + fortune cut out for you, and no mistake; I feel half sorry already to + think that I've parted with that run." About two days after his departure, + F—— who had registered his name at the land office as the + present tenant of 100,000 acres in the Lake Wanaka district, received a + polite request from official quarters to pay up the annual rent, just due, + amounting to 100 pounds or so. We had effected our brilliant negotiations + about a week too soon it seemed, but that was our own fault, so we had + nothing to do but pay the money with as good a grace as possible. I am + "free to confess" that this second cheque ran our banker's account very + fine indeed, but still in those palmy days of the past this was no subject + of uneasiness to a squatter. His credit was almost unlimited, and he could + always raise as much money as he liked on an hypothecation of next year's + wool. But we had not come to that yet. The weather was delightful; the + customary week of heavy rain just after our midsummer Christmas, had + cooled the air and laid the dust, besides bringing out a fresh spring-like + green tint over the willows and poplars, and causing even the leaves of + the gums to lose their leather-like look for a few days. + </p> + <p> + After much consultation we decided to go by coach as far as Timaru, and + then trust to circumstances to decide our future means of transport. Not + only were we obliged to pay a large sum for our places but our luggage was + charged for by the pound, so we found it necessary to reduce our kit to + the most modest dimensions, and only to take what was absolutely + necessary. The journey was a long and weary one, the only variety being + caused by a strong spice of danger at each river. At some streams we were + transferred bodily to a large raft-like ferry boat, and so taken across. + At others the passengers and luggage only were put into the boat, the + lumbering coach with its leathern springs left behind, whilst the horses + swam in our wake across the wide and rushing river, to be re-harnessed to + another coach on the opposite shore. The Rakaia, Ashburton, and Rangitata + had been crossed in this way, and we had reached the Otaio, a smaller + river, when we found a new mode of transport awaiting us. A large dray + with a couple of powerful horses was in readiness, and into this + springless vehicle we were unceremoniously bundled. The empty coach and + horses was driven over at another part of the stream. I shall never forget + the jolting: the river must have been at least a quarter of a mile wide at + that reach, and over its bed of boulders and rocks we bumped In the middle + stretched a long strip of shingle, which seemed as smooth as turf by + contrast with the first half of the river-bed. When we charged into the + water again our driver removed his pipe from his mouth, looked over his + shoulder and remarked, "River's come down since mornin'; best tuck up your + feet, marms all." I can answer for this "marm" tucking up her feet with + great agility, and not a moment too soon either, for as a light wind was + blowing, a playful wave came rippling over and through the planked floor + of the dray, floating all the smaller parcels about. But no one could + speak, we were so jolted: it literally seemed as if our spines <i>must</i> + come through the crown of our heads, and I expected all my teeth to tumble + out. + </p> + <p> + In the midst of my fright and suffering, a laugh was jolted out of me by + the absurd behaviour of one of our fellow-passengers. He was what is + called a bush carpenter: i.e., a wandering carpenter, who travels from + station to station, doing any little odd rough jobs wanted. This man had + been working for us some time before, and had often amused me with his + quaint ways. On this occasion he was on his oppressively good behaviour, + and sat quite silent and solemn on the opposite ledge of the dray. But + when for the second time the water came swirling through our rude + conveyance with a force which threatened to upset it altogether, Dale + fumbled in his pocket, as if he were seeking for a life-belt, produced an + enormous pair of green goggle spectacles, which might have made part of + Moses Primrose's purchases at the fair, and adjusting them on his nose as + steadily as he could, said gravely, "This must be looked to!" He continued + to stare at the wash of water during the remainder of our perilous and + rough transit without vouchsafing any explanation of his meaning, but + after we had safely landed he replaced his spectacles, first in their huge + shagreen case, and next in his pocket, with an air which seemed to say, + "The danger is now over: thanks to my precautions." + </p> + <p> + Timaru was reached very late, and the best accommodation at the inn placed + at our disposal. Still, in those distant days there was no such thing as a + private sitting room, and we had all to eat our supper in the same + rough-boarded little apartment. But in all my varied wanderings in + different parts of the world, when the accidents of travel have thrown me + for a time among the class whom we foolishly speak of as the lower orders, + I have never yet had to complain of the slightest inconvenience or + disagreeableness from my fellow-travellers. On the contrary, I have always + received the most chivalrous politeness at their hands, and have noticed + how ready they were to forego their usual tastes and habits lest they + should cause me any annoyance. I wonder whether fine gentlemen in their + splendid clubs would be quite so willing to spoil the pleasure of their + evening if any accident were to throw an unwelcome lady amongst them? At + all events, they could not be <i>more</i> self-sacrificing than my friends + in fustian jackets have always proved themselves, and on this particular + evening the landlord of the inn was so amazed at the orders for tea and + coffee instead of the usual "nips" of spirits, that he was constrained to + inquire the reason. A stalwart drover who was sitting opposite to me at + the rude table, murmured from the depths of his great beard, in an + oracular whisper, "The smell of speerits might'nt be agreeble like to the + lady." In vain I protested that I did not mind it in the least; tea and + coffee was the order of the evening, and solemn silence and good + behaviour. No smoking, no songs, no conviviality of any sort. I would fain + have shown my appreciation of their courtesy by talking to them; but alas, + I was one vast ache all over! Although the road had been a dead level, + sixteen hours of jolting and bumping had reduced me to a limp, + black-and-blue creature, with out a word or a smile. Of course I retired + to what was literally a pallet, and a very hard pallet too, as early as + possible, but even after I had vanished behind the thin wooden partition + which formed my bedroom, the greatest silence and decorum continued to + reign among my fellow-travellers. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter VII: "Buying a run."—continued. + </h2> + <p> + Early the next morning we all breakfasted together, and then separated + with most polite adieux. We sallied forth to look for a couple of riding + horses. There were none to be hired, so we had to buy two good-looking + nags for 45 pounds a-piece. Now-a-days the same horses would not fetch + more than 10 pounds and I have been told that in Australia you can buy a + horse for a shilling, but ours in New Zealand have never sunk lower than a + couple of pounds, if they had any legs at all. It seemed to the + horse-dealer quite a superfluous question when I timidly inquired if my + horse had ever carried a lady. "No: I can't just say as he has, mum, as + you see there aint no ladies in these parts for him to carry. But," he + added magnanimously, "I'll try him with a blanket fust, if you're at all + oneasy about him." We did not start until the next day, as we had to hunt + up side-saddles, and I had to sew a few yards of grey linsey into a + riding-skirt; but by the following day we were all ready, and our "swags" + packed and strapped to the saddles by nine o'clock. F——'s + horse looked a very nice one in every respect; mine was evidently uneasy + in his mind at the strange shape of his saddle, and I was recommended to + mount outside the little enclosure, on a patch of open ground, where my + steed would not be able to brush me off. The moment I mounted, the + "Hermit" as he was called, made for a dry ditch and tried to lie down, but + a sharp cut from a stock-whip brought him out of it, and then he laid his + ears well back and started for a good gallop, to endeavour to get rid of + his strange rider. However, his head was turned in the right direction; + there were no obstacles in the way, and before he got tired of his pace we + had left Timaru a good many miles behind us. F—— looked + complacently at the "Hermit," and observed, "He'll carry you very nicely, + I think." I could only breathe a sincere hope that he might. + </p> + <p> + It was a beautiful day, warm but not oppressive, and delightfully calm. + Our road lay at first along the sea-shore. Ever since we had left + Christchurch the ground had been almost level, and the road consisted + merely of a track cleared from tussocks. On our left extended the vast + strip known as the Ninety-miles Beach, whilst far on our right, between us + and the west coast, the Southern Alps, rose in all their might and beauty, + sometimes lightly veiled by a summer haze, at others cutting our + Italian-blue sky sharp and clear with their grand outlines. Our horses + were a trifle too fat for good condition, and we feared to hurry them the + first day, so we made an early halt at Mahiki, only a twenty miles stage; + but the next day they took us on to Waitaki Ferry, past a splendid bush, + and so into the heart of the hill country. + </p> + <p> + Between the ranges, beautiful fertile valleys extended; when I say + fertile, I mean that the soil was excellent, and the land well-grassed. + But there was no cultivation. Not a sod had ever been turned there since + the creation of the world, and the whole country wore the peculiar yellow + tinge caught from the tall waving tussocks, which is the prevailing + feature of New Zealand scenery <i>au naturel</i>. Every acre had been + "taken up," but as yet the runs were rather understocked. Our fourth day's + ride was the longest,—fifty-five miles in all, though we halted for + a couple of hours at a miserable accommodation house. Our bivouac that + night was close to Lake Wanaka, at the Molyneux Ferry-house, and there I + was kept awake all night by the attentions of a cat. I never saw such a + ridiculous animal. Prince, for that was his name, took the greatest fancy + to me, or rather to my woollen skirt I suppose, and found a linsey lap + much more comfortable than the corduroy knees on which he took his usual + evening nap. At all events he followed me into my room, which only boasted + of a mattress, stuffed with tussock-grass by the way, on the floor. Here I + should have slept very well after my long journey, if Prince would have + permitted it. In vain I put him out of the window, not always very gently; + he returned in five minutes, bringing a palpitating, just-caught bird or + mouse, which he softly dropped on my face, and purred loudly with delight + at his own gallantry. Twenty times did I strike a match that night and try + to restore the victims to life; only one recovered sufficiently to be + released, and Prince brought it in again, quite dead, five minutes later. + I shut the little casement window, but the room became so hot and stuffy, + and suspicious fumes of stale beer and tobacco began to assert their + presence, so that I found myself obliged to open it again. Sometimes the + victim's bones were crunched close to my ear, and I found more than one + feather in my hair in the morning. Never was any one so persecuted by a + cat as I was by Prince that weary night. + </p> + <p> + The next day we got to a station known as "Johnson's." It was just at the + head of the lake, and as we arrived tolerably early in the forenoon we + embarked, after the usual station dinner of mutton, tea, and damper, on + Lake Wanaka. Alas for those treacherous blue waters! We had only a little + pair-oared boat, in which I took my place as coxwain, and after pulling + for a mile or two under a blazing sun, over short chopping waves, with a + head-wind, we all became so deadly sea-sick that we had to turn back! As + soon as we had rested and recovered, a council of war was held as to our + movements, and we decided, in spite of our recent experiences, to turn our + horses, who had done quite enough for the present, out on the run, and so + make our way down the lake by boat. Already F—— was beginning + to look anxious, for he perceived that, even after the head of the lake + had been reached, the wool would cost an enormous sum to cart down to + either Oamaru or Timaru, from whence alone it could be shipped. + </p> + <p> + The mile or two of the run which lay along the shore of the lake showed us + frightfully rough country. A dense jungle of tussocks and thorny bushes + choked up the feed, and made it impossible to drive any animals through + it, even supposing that good pasturage lay beyond. Still we hoped that we + might be looking at the worst portion of our purchase, and deter mined to + persevere in the attempt to penetrate to the furthest end of our new + property. Accordingly we hired a safe old tub of a boat which, though too + heavy to pull, was warranted to sail steadily, and with a couple of men, + some cold mutton, bread, tea, and sugar, started valiantly on our cruise. + But the "blue, unclouded weather," in which we had hitherto basked, was at + an end for the present. We had already enjoyed a longer succession of calm + days than usually falls to the lot of the travellers in that windy middle + island, and it was now quite time for the imprisoned "nor'-wester" to have + his turn over the surface of the domain. + </p> + <p> + Accordingly the first day's sail was against a light, ominously warm + head-wind, and we only made any way at all by keeping up a complicated + system of tacking. The start had not been an early one, so darkness found + us but little advanced on our voyage, and we passed the night in a rough + shanty, on beds of fern-leaves, wrapped in our red blankets. Tired as we + were, none of us could sleep much. The air was dry and parched; every now + and then a sough of the rising hot gale swept through our crazy shelter + without cooling us, and warned us to prepare for what was coming. Our only + chance of getting on was to make an early start, for fortunately a true + "nor'-wester" is somewhat of a sluggard. The skies wore their peculiar + chrysoprase green tint, except towards the weather quarter, where heavy + banks of lurid cloud showed that the enemy was collecting in force. Even + the hour of dawn, usually so crisp and cool, brought no sense of + refreshment to our languid limbs, and we embarked with the direst + forebodings. A few miles further up the lake we reached an out-station + hut, built by our host Mr. Johnson when he first "took up" his country and + intended to push his boundary as far as this. He soon drew in his lines + however on account of the rough nature of the ground. The hut was in a + most picturesque spot, and although deserted, remained still in good + repair. The little scrap of garden ground was a tangle of gooseberry and + currant bushes among which potatoes flourished at their own sweet will. + </p> + <p> + We had only time to beach the boat, that is to say F—— and the + two men did so, whilst I ran backwards and forwards with the blankets and + provisions, before the hurricane was upon us. Henceforth there was no + stirring out of doors until the gale had blown itself out. We dragged in + some driftwood, barricaded the door, and prepared to pass the time as well + as we could. Oh, the fleas in the hut! The ground was literally alive with + them, and their audacity and appetite was unparalleled. Our boatmen sat + tranquilly by the tiny window and played cribbage incessantly with very + dirty cards and a board made out of a small bar of soap. As for me, I + turned an empty box up on its end, so as to get out of the way of the + fleas, and perched myself on it, finding ample occupation in defending my + position from the attacks of the active little wretches. Sometimes I felt + as if I must rush out into the lake and drown myself and my tormentors + together. It was very bad for everybody. The poor boatmen doubtless wished + to smoke, but were too polite to do anything of the sort. F—— + had nothing whatever to read, except a torn piece of an old <i>Times</i>, + at least two years old, which we had brought to wrap up some of our + provisions; whilst I was still more idle and wretched. Two weary + interminable days dragged, or perhaps I should say, blew, themselves along + in this miserable fashion, but at sundown on the evening of the third day + the wind dropped suddenly, and we did not lose a moment in darting out of + our prison and embarking once more. For the first time since we started we + could perceive the grandeur of the surrounding country; but grand scenery + is not necessary nor indeed desirable in a sheep run. Splendid mountains + ran down in steep spurs to the very shore of the enormous lake. Behind + them, piled in snowy steeps, rose the distant Alps of the Antipodes; great + masses of native bush made dark purple shadows among the clefts of the + hills, whilst the lake rippled in and out of many a graceful bay and quiet + harbour. Not a fleck or film of cloud floated between us and the serene + and darkening sky; a profound, delightful calm brooded over land and + water. Although there was no moon, the stars served us as lights and + compass until two o'clock in the morning, by which time we had reached the + head of the lake (which is thirty-five miles in length), where we landed, + extemporized a tent out of the boat sail, and turned in for a refreshing + flea-less sleep. + </p> + <p> + The next day was beautifully still, with a light air from the opposite + point, just sufficient to cool the parched atmosphere; and we made our way + along the head of the lake to a place were a couple of sawyers were at + work. One of them had brought his wife with him, and her welcome to me was + the most touching thing in the world. She took me entirely under her care, + and would hardly let me out of her sight. I must say it was very nice to + be waited on so faithfully, and I gave myself up to the unaccustomed + luxury. All she required of me in exchange for her incessant toil on my + behalf was "news." It did not matter of what kind, every scrap of + intelligence was welcome to her, and she refused to tell me to what date + her "latest advices" extended. During the three days of our stay in that + clearing among the great pines of the Wanaka Bush, I gave my hostess a + complete abridgment of the history of England—political, social, and + moral, beginning from my earliest recollections. Then we ran over + contemporary foreign affairs, dwelt minutely on every scrap of colonial + news, and finally wound up with a full, true, and particular account of + myself and all my relations and friends. When I paused for breath she + would cease her washing and cooking on my behalf, and say entreatingly, + "Go on now, do!" until I felt quite desperate. + </p> + <p> + All this time whilst I was being "interviewed" nearly to death, F——employed + himself in making excursions to different parts of the run. One of the + sawyers lent him a miserable half-starved little pony; and he penetrated + to another sawyer's hut, seven miles distant up the Matukituki river. But + no matter whether he turned his steps to north or south, east or west, he + met with the same disheartening report. There was the ground indeed, but + it was perfectly useless. Not only was there was <i>no</i> pasturage, but + if there had been, the nature of the country would have rendered it + valueless, on account of the way it was overgrown. It would be tedious to + explain more minutely why this was the case. Sufficient must it be to say + that whilst F—— was only too anxious to keep his eyes shut as + to the ground he had alighted on after his leap in the dark, and the + sawyers were equally anxious to induce settlers to come there, and so + bring a market for their labour close to their hand nothing could make our + purchase appear anything except a dead loss. As for the plans, they were + purely imaginary. The blue lake was about the only part true to nature; + and even that should have had a foot-note to state that it was generally + lashed into high, unnavigable waves, by a chronic nor'-wester. + </p> + <p> + No: there was nothing for it but to go home again to the little run which + had seemed such a mere paddock in our eyes, whilst we indulged in + castle-building over 100,000 acres of country. It was of no use lingering + amid such disappointment and discomfort; besides which my listener, the + sawyer's wife, had turned her husband and herself out of their hut, and + were sleeping under a red blanket tent. Poor woman, she was most anxious + to get away; and the lovely sylvan scene, with the tall trees standing + like sentinels over their prostrate brethren, the wealth of beauteous + greenery, springing through fronds of fern and ground creepers, the + bright-winged flight of paroquets and other bush birds, even the vast + expanse of the lake which stretched almost from their threshold for so + many miles, all would have been gladly exchanged for a dusty high street + in any country town-ship. Her last words were, "Can't you send me a paper + or hany thing printed, mam?" I faithfully promised to do my best, and + carried out my share of the bargain by despatching to her a large packet + of miscellaneous periodicals and newspapers; but whether she ever received + them is more than I can say. + </p> + <p> + We were afraid of lingering too long, lest another nor'-wester should + become due; and we therefore started as soon as F—— had + decided that it was of no use exploring our wretched purchase any further. + We had a stiff breeze from the north-west all the way down the lake; but + as it was right a-stern it helped us along to such good purpose, that one + day's sailing before it brought us back to Mr. Johnson's homestead and + comparative civilization. The little parlour and the tiny bed-room beyond, + into which I could only get access by climbing through a window (for the + architect had forgotten to put a door), appeared like apartments in a + spacious palace, so great was the contrast between their snug comfort and + the desolate misery of our hut life. Of course nothing else was talked of + except our disappointment at our new run; and although Mr. Johnson had + indulged in forebodings, which were only too literally fulfilled, he had + the good taste never to remind us of his prophecies. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Of all the forms of human woe, + Defend me from that dread, 'I told you so.'" +</pre> + <p> + After a day's halt and rest we mounted our much refreshed horses, and set + our faces straight across country for Dunedin. This is very easy to write, + but it was not quite so easy to do. We could only ride for the first + fifty-two miles, which we accomplished in two days. These stages brought + us to the foot of the Dunstan Range, and near the gold-diggings of that + name. I would fain have turned aside to see them, but we had not time. + However, we felt the auriferous influence of the locality; for a perfect + stranger came up to us, whilst we were baiting at another place, called + the Kaiwarara diggings, and offered to buy our horses from us for 30 + pounds each, and also to purchase our saddles and bridles at a fair price. + This was exactly what we wanted, as we had intended to sell them at + Dunedin; and I was no ways disinclined to part with the Hermit; who + retained the sulky, misanthropical temper which had earned him his name. + He was now pronounced "fit to carry a lady," and purchased to be sold + again at the diggings. Whether there were any ladies there or not I cannot + tell. Of course, before parting with our nags we ascertained that the + ubiquitous "Cobb's coach" started from our resting place for Dunedin next + day, and we made the rest of our journey in one of that well-known line. + Its leathern springs, whilst not so liable to break by sudden jolts, + impart a swinging rocking motion to the body of the vehicle, which is most + disagreeable; but rough and rude as they are, they deserve to be looked + upon with respect as the pioneers of civilization. All over America, + Australia, and now New Zealand, the moment half-a-dozen passengers are + forthcoming, that moment the enterprising firm starts a coach, and the + vehicle runs until it is ousted by a railway. All previous tracks which I + had journeyed over seemed smooth turnpike roads, compared to that terrible + tussocky track which led to Dunedin. + </p> + <p> + But that bright little town was reached at last, the hotel welcomed us, + tired and bruised travellers that we were, and next evening we started in + the <i>Geelong</i> for Port Lyttleton. This little coasting steamer seemed + to touch at every hamlet along the coast, and after each pause I had to + begin afresh my agonies of sea-sickness. There was no such thing as + getting one's sea-legs; for we were seldom more than a few hours outside, + and had no chance of getting used to the horrible motion. Timaru was + reached next day, but we had suffered so frightfully during the night from + a chopping sea and an open roadstead, that we went on shore, and entrusted + ourselves once more to the old coach. It seemed better to endure the + miseries we knew of, than to make experiments in wretchedness. So we went + through the old jolting and jumbling until we were dropped at an + accommodation house, fifteen miles from Christchurch, where we slept that + night, and at daylight despatched a messenger to the next station for our + own horses. He had only thirty-five miles to ride, and about mid-day we + started to meet him on hired horses, which we were very glad to exchange + for better nags a stage further on. + </p> + <p> + And so we rode quietly home in the gloaming, winding up the lovely, + tranquil valley, at whose head stood our own snug little homestead. At + first we were so glad to be safely at hone again that we scarcely gave a + thought to our fruitless enterprise; but as our bruised bodies became + rested and restored, our hearts began to ache when we thought of the money + we had so rashly flung away in BUYING A RUN. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter VIII: Looking for a congregation. + </h2> + <p> + It is to be hoped and expected that such a good understanding has been + established between my readers and myself by this time, that they will not + find the general title of these papers unsuitable to the heading of this + particular chapter. Indeed, I may truly say, that, looking back upon the + many happy memories of my three years life in that lovely and beloved + Middle Island, no pleasures stand out more vividly than my evening rides + up winding gullies or across low hill-ranges in search of a shepherd's + hut, or a <i>cockatoo's</i> nest. A peculiar brightness seems to rest on + those sun-lit peaks of memory's landscape; and it is but fitting that it + should be so, for other excursions or expeditions used to be undertaken + merely for business or pleasure, but these delicious wanderings were in + search of scattered dwellings whose lonely inhabitants—far removed + from Church privileges for many a long year past—might be bidden, + nay, entreated, to come to us on Sunday afternoons, and attend the Service + we held at home weekly. + </p> + <p> + And here I feel constrained to say a word to those whose eyes may haply + rest on my pages, and who may find themselves in the coming years in + perhaps the same position as I did a short time ago. A new comer to a new + country is sure to be discouraged if he or she (particularly <i>she</i>, I + fancy) should attempt to revive or introduce any custom which has been + neglected or overlooked. This is especially the case with religious + observances. At every turn one is met by disheartening warnings. "Oh, the + people here are very different to those in the old country; they would + look upon it as impertinence if you suggested they should come to church." + "You will find a few may come just at first, and then when the novelty + wears off and they have seen all the pretty things in your drawing room, + not a soul will ever come near the place." + </p> + <p> + "If even the men don't say something very free and easy to you when you + invite them to your house on Sunday afternoons, you may depend upon it + that after two or three weeks you will not know how to keep them in + order." + </p> + <p> + Such, and many more, were the discouraging remarks made when I consulted + my neighbours about my plan for collecting the shepherds from the + surrounding runs, and holding a Church of England Service every Sunday + afternoon at our own little homestead. To my mind, the distances seemed + the greatest obstacle, as many of the men I wanted to reach lived + twenty-five or even thirty miles away, with very rough country between. I + had no fear of impertinence, for it is unknown to me, and seldom comes, I + fancy, unprovoked; whilst with regard to the novelty wearing off and the + men ceasing to attend, that must be left in God's hands. We could only + endeavour to plant the good seed, and trust to Him to give the increase. + It was a great comfort to me in those early days that F——, who + had been many years in the colony, never joined in the disheartening + prophecies I have alluded to. Although as naturally averse to reading + aloud before strangers as a man who had lived a solitary life would be + sure to be, he promised at once, with a good grace, to read the Evening + Service and a sermon afterwards, and thus smoothed one difficulty over + directly. His advice to me was precisely what I would fain repeat: "Try, + by all means: if you fail you will at least feel you have made the + attempt." May all who try succeed, as we did! I believe firmly they will, + for it is an undertaking on which God's blessing is sure to rest, and + there are no such fertilizing dews as those which fall from heaven. The + mists arising from earth are only miasmic vapours after all! + </p> + <p> + But I fear to linger too long on the end, instead of telling you about the + means. + </p> + <p> + It was May when we were fairly settled in our new home at the head of a + hill-encircled valley. With us that month answers to your November, but + fogs are unknown in that breezy Middle Island, and my first winter in + Canterbury was a beautiful season, heralded in by an exquisite autumn. How + crisp the mornings and evenings were, with ever so light a film of hoar + frost, making a splendid sparkle on every blade of waving tussock-grass! + Then in the middle of the day the delicious warmth of the sun tempted one + to linger all day in the open air, and I never wearied of gazing at the + strange purple shadows cast by a passing cloud; or up, beyond the floating + vapourous wreath, to the heaven of brilliant blue which smiled upon us. + And yet, when I come to think of it, I don't know that I had much time to + spare for glancing at either hills or skies, for we were just settling + ourselves in a new place, and no one knows what <i>that</i> means unless + they have tried it, fifty miles away from the nearest shop. The yeast + alone was a perpetual anxiety to me,—it would not keep beyond a + certain time, and had a tendency to explode its confining bottles in the + middle of the night, so it became necessary to make it in smaller + quantities every ten days or so. If by any chance I forgot to remind my + scatter-brained damsels to replenish the yeast bottles, they used up the + last drop, and then would come smilingly to me with the remark, "There + aint not a drop o' yeast, about, anywhere, mum." This entailed flap-jacks, + or scones, or soda bread, or some indigestible compound for at least three + days, as it was of no use attempting to make proper bread until the yeast + had worked. Then the well needed to be deepened, a kitchen garden had to + be made, shelter to be provided for the fowls and pigs; a shed to be put + up for coals; a thousand things which entailed thought and trouble, had to + be done. + </p> + <p> + It is true these rough jobs were not exactly in my line, but indoors I was + just as busy trying to make big things fit into little spaces and <i>vice + versa</i>. We could not afford to take things coolly and do a little every + day, for at that time of year an hour's change in the wind might have + brought a heavy fall of snow, or a sharp frost, or a; deluge of rain down + upon the uncovered and defenceless heads of our live stock. The poor dear + sheep, the source of our income, were after all the least well-cared for + creatures on the Station. A well grassed and watered run, with sunny + vallies for winter feeding, and green hills for summer pasturage, had been + provided by antipodean Nature for them, and to these advantages we only + added some twenty or twenty-five miles of wire fencing, and then they were + left to themselves, with a couple of shepherds to look after fifteen + thousand sheep all the year round. + </p> + <p> + But yet, busy as we were, we found time to look up a congregation. The + very first Sunday afternoon, whilst we were still in the midst of a chaos + of chips and big boxes and straw and empty china-barrels, our own + shepherds came over, by invitation, and the only very near neighbours we + had—a Scotch head-shepherd and his charming young wife,—and we + held a Service in the half-furnished drawing room. After it was ended we + had a long talk with the men, and they confessed that they had enjoyed it + very much, and would like to come regularly. When questioned as to the + feasibility of inducing others to join, they said that it might be + suggested to more than one distant, lonely hill-shepherd, but his + uncontrollable shyness would probably prevent his attendance. + </p> + <p> + "Jim Salter, and Joe Bennett, and a lot more on 'em, would be glad enow to + come, if so be they could feel as how they was truly wellcombe," said our + shepherd, Pepper, who prided himself on the elegance and correctness of + his phraseology. He added, after a reflective pause, turning bashfully + away, "If so be as the lady would just look round and give 'em a call, + they'd be to be persuaded belike." + </p> + <p> + So the scheme was Pepper's after all, you see. But this "looking round," + to which he alluded so airily, meant scrambling rides, varying from ten to + twenty-eight miles in length, over break-neck country, and this on the + slender chance of finding the men in-doors. Now a New Zealand shepherd + almost lives out on the hills, so the prospect of finding any of our + congregation at home was slight indeed. However, as I said before, F—— + stood by me, and although we neither of us could well spare the time, we + agreed to devote two afternoons every week, so long as the fine open + autumn weather, lasted, to making excursions in search of back-country + huts. There are no roads or finger posts or guides of any sort in those + distant places. When we inquired what was the name of "Mills" shepherd + (the masters are always plain Smith or Jones, and the shepherds Mr.——, + in the colonies) the answer was generally very vague. "Wiry Bill, we + mostly calls 'im; but I think I've heerd say his rightful name was Mr. + Pellet, mum. He's a little chap, as strong as the 'ouse," explained + Pepper, who was an incorrigible cockney, "and he lives over there," + pointing with his thumb to a mountain range behind us. "He's in one of + them blind gullies. You go along the gorge of the river till you come to a + saddle all over fern, and you drop down that, and follow the best o' three + or four tracts till you come to a swamp." + </p> + <p> + Here Pepper paused, in consideration of my face of horror; for if there + was one thing I dreaded more than another in those early days, it was a + swamp. Steep hill sides, wide creeks, honey-combed flats, all came in, the + day's ride,—but a swamp! Ugh! the horrible treacherous thing, so + green and innocent looking, with here and there a quicksand or a peaty + morass, in which, without a moment's warning, your horse sank up to his + withers! It was dreadful, and when we came to such a place Helen used to + stop dead short, prick her pretty ears well forward, and, trembling with + fear and excitement, put her nose close to the ground, smelling every + inch, before she would place her fore foot down on it, jumping off it like + a goat if it proved insecure. Generally she crossed a swamp, by a series + of bounds in and out of flax bushes; and hopeless indeed would a morass be + without those green cities of refuge! + </p> + <p> + Horrible as a large swamp is however to a timid horsewoman, it is dear to + the heart of a cockatoo. He gladly buys a freehold of fifty acres in the + midst of one, burns it, makes a sod fence, sown with gorse seed a-top, all + round his section, drains it in a rough and ready fashion, and then the + splendid fertile soil which has been waiting for so many thousand years, + "brings forth fruit abundantly." Such enormous fields of wheat and oats + and barley as you come upon sometimes,—with, alas, never a market + near enough to enable the plenteous crop to return sevenfold into its + master's bosom! + </p> + <p> + I shall not inflict upon you a description of all our rides in search of + members for our congregation. Two, in widely differing directions, will + serve as specimens of such excursions. In consideration of my + new-chumishness, F—— selected a comparatively easy track for + our first ride. And yet, "bad was the best," might surely be said of that + breakneck path. What would an English horse, or an English lady say, to + riding for miles over a slippery winding ledge on a rocky hill side, where + a wall of solid mountain rose up perpendicularly on the right hand, and on + the left a very respectable sized river hurried over its boulders far + beneath the aerial path; yet this was comparatively a safe track, and + presented but one serious obstacle, over which I was ruthlessly taken. It + is perhaps needless to say we were riding in single file, and equally + unnecessary to state that I was the last; for certainly we should never + have made much progress otherwise. Helen, my bay mare, would follow her + stable companion, on which F—— was mounted, so that was the + way we got on at all. + </p> + <p> + A sudden sharp turn showed me what appeared to be a low stone wall running + own the spur of the mountain, right across our track, and I had already + begun to disquiet myself about the possibility of turning back on such a + narrow ledge, when I saw F——'s powerful black horse, with his + ears well forward, and his reins, lying loose on his neck, make a sort of + rush at the obstacle, climb up it as a cat would, stand for an instant, + exactly like a performing goat, with all four legs drawn closely together + under him, and then with a spring disappear on the other side. "This + wall", I thought, "must be but loosely built, for <i>Leo</i> has displaced + some of the stones from its coping." Helen, pretty dear, hurried after her + friend and leader; and before I had time to realize what she was going to + do, she was balancing herself on the crumbling summit of this stone wall + (which was only the freak of a landslip), and as it proved impossible to + remain there, perched like a bird on a very insecure branch, nothing + remained except to gather herself well together and jump off. But what a + jump! the ground fell sheer away at the foot of the wall, and left a chasm + many feet wide, which the horse could not see until it had climbed to the + top of the wall, and as turning back was out of the question, the only + alternative was to give a vigorous bound on to the narrow ledge beyond. + Terrified as I felt, I luckily refrained from jerking Helen's head, or + attempting to guide her in any way. The only chance of safety over New + Zealand tracks, or New Zealand creeks, is to leave your horse <i>entirely</i> + to itself. I have seen men who were reckoned good riders in England, get + the most ignominious tumbles from a disregard of this advice. An + up-country horse knows perfectly well the only sound spots in a swamp; or + the only sound part of a creek's banks. If his rider persists in taking + him over the latter, where he himself thinks it narrowest and safest, he + is pretty sure to find the earth rotten and crumbling, and to pay for his + obstinacy by a wetting; whilst in the case of a swamp the consequences are + even more serious, and the horse often gets badly strained in floundering + out of a quagmire. + </p> + <p> + But it was not all danger and difficulty, and the many varieties of scene + in the course of a long ride constituted some of its chief charms. At + first, perhaps, after we had left our own fair valley behind, the track + would wind through the gorge of a river, with lofty mountains rising sheer + up from the water side. All here was sad and grey, and very solemn in its + eternal silence, only made more intense by the ceaseless monotonous roar + of the ever-rushing water. Then we would emerge on acres and acres of + softly rolling downs, higher than the hillocks we call by that name at + home, but still marvellously beautiful in their swelling curves all + folding so softly into each other, and dotted with mobs of sheep, making + pastoral music to a flock-owner's ear. Over this sort of ground we could + canter gaily along, with "Hector," F——'s pet colley, keeping + close to the heels of his master's horse,—for it is the worst of bad + manners in a colley to look at a neighbour's sheep. The etiquette in + passing through a strange run is for the dog to go on the off side of his + master's horse, so that the sheep shall not even see him; and this piece + of courtly politeness Hector always practised of his own accord. + </p> + <p> + A wire fence always proved a very tiresome obstacle, for horses have a + great dread of them, and will not be induced to jump them on any account. + If we could find out where the gate was, well and good; but as it might be + half a dozen miles off, on one side or the other, we seldom lost time or + patience in seeking it. When there was no help for it, and such a fence + had to be crossed, the proceedings were, always the same. F——dismounted, + and unfastened one of his stirrup leathers; with this he strapped the + wires as firmly as possible together, but if the fence had been lately + fresh-strained, it was sometimes a difficult task. Still he generally made + one spot lower than the rest, and over this he proceeded to adjust his + coat very carefully; he then vaulted lightly over himself, and calling + upon me to aid by sundry flicks on Leo's flank, the horse would be induced + to jump over it. This was always a work of time and trouble, for Leo hated + doing it, and would rather have leaped the widest winter creek, than + jumped the lowest coat-covered wire fence. Helen had to jump with me on + her back, and without any friendly whip to urge her, but except once, when + she caught her hind leg in the sleeve of the coat which was hanging over + the fence, and tore it completely out, she got over very well. Upon that + occasion F—— had to carry his sleeve in his pocket until we + reached the neat little out-station hut, where Jim Salter lived, and where + we were pretty sure to find a housewife, for shepherds are as handy as + sailors with a needle and thread. + </p> + <p> + I shall always believe that some bird of the air had "carried the matter" + to Salter, because not only was he at home, and in his Sunday clothes, but + he had made a cake the evening before, and that was a very suspicious + circumstance. However we pretended not to imagine that we were expected, + and Jim pretended with equal success to be much surprised at our visit, so + both sides were satisfied. Nothing could be neater than the inside of the + little hut; its cob walls papered with, old Illustrated London News,—not + only pictures but letter-press,—its tiny window as clean as + possible, a new sheep-skin rug laid down before the open fireplace, where + a bright wood fire was sputtering and cracking cheerily, and the + inevitable kettle suspended from a hook half-way up the low chimney. + Outside, the dog-kennels had been newly thatched with tohi grass, the + garden weeded and freshly dug, the chopping-block and camp-oven as clean + as scrubbing could make them. It was too late in the year for fruit, but + Salter's currant, raspberry, and gooseberry bushes gave us a good idea of + how well he must have fared in the summer. The fowls were just devouring + the last of the green-pea shoots, and the potatoes had been blackened by + our first frosts. + </p> + <p> + It was all very nice and trim and comfortable, except the loneliness; that + must have been simply awful. It is difficult to realise how completely cut + off from the society of his kind a New Zealand up-country shepherd is, + especially at an out-station like this. Once in every three months he goes + down to the homestead, borrows the pack horse, and leads it up to his hut, + with a quarter's rations of flour, tea, sugar and salt; of course he + provides himself with mutton and firewood, and his simple wants are thus + supplied. After shearing, about January, his wages are paid, varying from + 75 pounds to 100 pounds a year, according to the locality, and then he + gets a week's leave to go down to the nearest town. If he be a prudent + steady man, as our friend Salter was, he puts his money in the bank, or + lends it out on a freehold mortgage at ten per cent., only deducting a few + pounds from his capital for a suit of clothes, a couple of pair of Cookham + boots for hill walking, and above all, some new books. + </p> + <p> + Without any exception, the shepherds I came across in New Zealand were all + passionately fond of reading; and they were also well-informed men, who + often expressed themselves in excellent, through superfine, language. + Their libraries chiefly consisted of yellow-covered novels, and out of my + visits in search of a congregation grew a scheme for a book-club to supply + something better in the way of literature, which was afterwards most + successfully carried out. But of this I need not speak here, for we are + still seated inside Salter's hut,—so small in its dimensions that it + could hardly have held another guest. Womanlike, my eyes were everywhere, + and I presently spied out an empty bottle, labelled "Worcestershire + Sauce." + </p> + <p> + "Dear me, Salter," I cried, "I had no idea you were so grand as to have + sauces up here: why we hardly ever use them." "Well, mum," replied Salter, + bashfully, and stroking his long black beard to gain time to select the + grandest words he could think of, "it is hardly to be regarded in the + light of happetite, that there bottle, it is more in the nature of + remedies." Then, seeing that I still looked mystified, he added, "You see, + mum, although we gets our 'elth uncommon well in these salubrious + mountings, still a drop of physic is often handy-like, and in a general + way I always purchase myself a box of Holloway's Pills (of which you do + get such a lot for your money), and also a bottle of pain-killer; but last + shearing they was out o' pain-killer, they said, so they put me up a + bottle o' Cain pepper, and likewise that 'ere condiment, which was werry + efficacious, 'specially towards the end o' the bottle!" "And do you really + mean to say you drank it, Salter?" I inquired with horror. + </p> + <p> + "Certainly I do, mum, whenever I felt out o' sorts. It always took my mind + off the loneliness, and cheered me up wonderful, especial if I hadded a + little red pepper to it," said Salter, getting up from his log of wood and + making me a low bow. All this time F—— and I were seated + amicably side by side on poor Salter's red blanket-covered "bunk," or + wooden bedstead, made of empty flour-sacks nailed between rough poles, and + other sacks filled with tussock grass for a mattress and pillow. + </p> + <p> + The word loneliness gave me a good opening to broach the subject of our + Sunday gatherings, and my suspicions of Jim's having been told of our + visit were confirmed by the alacrity with which he said, "I have much + pleasure in accepting your kind invitation, mum, if so be as I am not + intruding." + </p> + <p> + "No, indeed Salter," F—— said; "you'd be very welcome, and you + could always turn Judy into the paddock whilst we were having service." + </p> + <p> + Now if there was one thing dearer to Salter's heart than another, it was + his little roan mare Judy: her excellent condition, and jaunty little + hog-mane and tail, testified to her master's loving care. So it was all + happily settled, and after paying a most unfashionably long visit to the + lonely man, we rode away with many a farewell nod and smile. I may say + here that Salter was one of the most regular of our congregation for more + than two years, besides being a member of the book club. In time, its more + sensible volumes utterly displaced the yellow paper rubbish in his but + library, and I never can forget the poor man's emotion when he came to bid + me good-bye. + </p> + <p> + At my request he made the rough little pen and ink sketches which are here + given, and as he held my offered hand (not knowing quite what else to do + with it) when I took leave of him after our last home-service, when my + face was set towards England, he could not say a word. The great burly + creature's heart must have been nearly as big as his body, and he seemed + hardly to know that large tears were rolling down his sunburnt face and + losing themselves in his bushy beard. I tried to be cheerful myself, but + he kept repeating, "It is only natural you should be glad to go, yet it is + very rough upon us." In vain I assured him I was not at all glad to go,—very, + very sorry, in fact: all he would say was, "To England, home and beauty, + in course any one would be pleased to return." I can't tell you what he + meant, and he had no voice to waste on explanations; I only give poor dear + Jim's valedictory sentences as they fell from his white and trembling + lips. + </p> + <p> + Very different was Ned Palmer, the most diminutive and wiry of hill + shepherds, with a tongue which seemed never tired, and a good humoured + smile for every one. Ned used to try my gravity sorely by stepping up to + me half a dozen times during the service, to find his place for him in his + Prayer-book, and always saying aloud, "Thank you kindly, m'm." + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter IX: Another shepherd's hut. + </h2> + <p> + To get to Ned's hut—which was not nearly so trim or comfortable as + Salter's, and stood out in the midst of a vast plain covered with waving + yellow tussocks,—we had to cross a low range of hills, and pick our + way through nearly a mile of swampy ground on the other side. The + sure-footed horses zig-zagged their way up the steep hill-side with + astonishing ease, availing themselves here and there of a sheep track, for + sheep are the best engineers in the world, and always hit off the safest + and easiest line of country. I did not feel nervous going <i>up</i> the + hill, although we must have appeared, had there been any one to look at + us, more like flies on a wall than a couple of people on horse back, but + when we came to the ridge and looked down on the descent beneath us, my + heart fairly gave way. + </p> + <p> + Not a blade of grass, or a leaf of a shrub, was to be seen on all the + steep slope, or rather precipice, for there was very little slope about + it; nothing but grey loose shingle, which the first hoof-fall of the + leading horse invariably sent slipping and sliding, in a perfect avalanche + of rubble, down into the soft bright green morass beneath. Of all the bad + "tracks" I encountered in my primitive rides, I really believe I suffered + more real terror and anguish on that particular hill-side than on any + other. My companion's conduct too, used to be heartless in the extreme. He + let the reins fall loosely on his horse's neck, merely holding their + extreme ends, settled himself comfortably in his saddle, leaning well + back, and turning round laughingly to me, observed, "Aren't you coming?" + "Oh, not there," I cried in true melo-dramatic tones of horror; but it was + all in vain, F—— merely remarked "You have nothing to do but + fancy you are sitting in an arm-chair at home, you are quite as safe." + "What nonsense," I gasped. "I only wish I <i>was</i> at home: never, never + will I come out riding again." All this time the leading horse was slowly + and carefully edging himself down hill a few steps to the right, then a + few to the left, just as he thought best, displacing tons of loose stone + and even small rocks at every movement. Helen, nothing daunted, was eager + to follow, and although she quivered with excitement at the noise, echoed + back from the opposite hills, lost no time in preparing to descend. Her + first movement sent such showers of rubble down upon F—— and + his horse, that I really thought the latter would have been knocked off + his legs. "If you <i>could</i> keep a little more to the right, so as to + send the stones clear of me, I should be very grateful," shouted F——, + who was actually near the bottom of the hill already, so sharp had been + the angles of his horse's descent. I felt afraid of attempting to guide + Helen, lest the least check should send us both head over heels into the + quagmire below, and yet it seemed dreadful to cause the death of one's + husband by rolling down cart loads of stones upon him. It could not have + been more than five minutes before Helen and I stood side by side with + Leo, on the only bit of firm ground at the edge of the morass. I believe I + was as white as my pocket handkerchief; and if fright could turn a + person's hair grey, I had been sufficiently alarmed to make myself + eligible for any quantity of walnut pomade. + </p> + <p> + Fortunately the summer had proved rather a dry one, and the swamp was not + so wet as it would have been after a heavy rain-fall. The horses stepped + carefully from flax bushes to "nigger heads" (as the very old blackened + grass stumps are called), resting hardly a moment anywhere, and avoiding + all the most seductive looking spots. I thought my companion must have + gone suddenly mad, when, a hawk rising up almost from beneath our horses' + feet, he flung himself off his saddle and cried out, "A late hawk's nest, + I declare!" And so it proved, for a little searching in a sheltered and + tolerably dry spot revealed a couple of eggs, precisely like hens' eggs, + until broken, when their delicate pale green inner membrane betrayed their + dangerous origin. It is chiefly owing to this practice of laying in swamps + that the various kinds of hawk increase and thrive as they do, for if it + were possible to get at them, the shepherds would soon exterminate the + sworn foe of their chickens and pigeons. They are also the great drawback + to the introduction of pheasants and partridges, for the young birds have + not a chance in the open against even a sparrow-hawk. + </p> + <p> + Although it is a digression, I must tell you here how, one beautiful early + winter's day, I was standing in the verandah at my own home, when one of + our pigeons, chased by a hawk, flew right into my face and its pursuer was + so close and so heated by the chase, that it flung itself also with great + violence against my head, with a scream of rage and triumph, hurting me a + good deal as it dug its cruel, armed heel into my cheek. The pigeon had + fluttered, stunned and exhausted to the ground, and, quick as lightning I + stooped to pick it up; so great had been the impetus of the hawk's final + charge that he had never perceived his victim had escaped him. The cunning + of these birds must be seen to be believed. I have often watched a wary + old hawk perched most impudently on the stock-yard rails, waiting until a + rash chicken or duckling should, in spite of its mother's warning clucks + of terror, insist on coming out from under her sheltering wings. If I took + an umbrella, or a croquet mallet, or a walking stick, and went out, the + bird would remain quite unmoved, even if I held my weapon pointed gun-wise + towards him. But let anyone take a real gun and hold it ever so well + hidden behind their back, and emerge ever so cautiously from the shelter + of the shrubs, my fine gentleman was off directly, mounting out of sight + with a few strokes of his powerful wings, and uttering a shriek of + derision as he departed. Nothing is so rare as a successful shot at a + hawk. + </p> + <p> + We consoled ourselves however on this occasion, by reflecting that we had + annihilated two young hawks before they had commenced their lives of + rapine and robbery, and rode on our way rejoicing, to find Ned Palmer + sitting outside his but door on a log of drift wood, making, candles. In + the more primitive days of the settlement, the early settlers must have + been as badly off for light, during the long dark winter evenings, as are + even now the poorer inhabitants of Greenland or of Iceland, for their sole + substitute for candles consisted of a pannikin half filled with melted + tallow, in which a piece of cork and an apology for a wick floated. But by + my time all this had long been past and over, and even a back-country + shepherd had a nice tin mould in which he could make a dozen candles of + the purest tallow at a time. + </p> + <p> + Ned was just running a slender piece of wood through the loops of his + twisted cotton wicks, so as to keep them above the rim of the mould, and + the strong odour of melted mutton fat was tainting the lovely fresh air. + But New Zealand run-holders have often to put up with queer smells as well + as sights and sounds, therefore we only complimented Ned on being + provident enough to make a good stock of candles before-hand, for home + consumption, during the coming dark days. After we had dismounted and + hobbled our horses with the stirrup leathers, so that they could move + about and nibble the sweet blue grass growing under each sheltering + tussock, I sat down on a large stone near, and began to tell Ned how often + I had watched the negroes in Jamaica making candles after a similar + fashion, only they use the wax from the wild bee nests instead of tallow, + which was a rare and scarce thing in that part of the world. I described + to him the thick orange-coloured wax candles which used to be the delight + of my childhood, giving out a peculiar perfuming odour after they had been + burning for an hour or two,—an odour made up of honey and the scent + of heavy tropic flowers. + </p> + <p> + Ned listened to my little story with much politeness, and then, feeling it + incumbent on him to contribute to the conversation, remarked, "I never + makes candles ma'am without I thinks of frost-bites." + </p> + <p> + "How is that, Palmer?" I asked, laughingly. "What in the world have they + to do with each other?" + </p> + <p> + "Well, ma'am, you see it was just in this way. It was afore I come here, + which is quite a lively, sociable place compared to Dodson's back country + out-station, at the foot o' those there ranges beyond. I give you my word, + ma'am, it used always to make me feel as if I was dead, and living in a + lonely eternity. Them clear, bright-blue <i>glassers</i> (glaciers, he + meant, I presume) was awful lonesome, and as for a human being they never + come a-nigh the place. Well as I was saying, ma'am, one day I finds I had + run out o' candles, and as the long dark evenings (for it was the height + o' winter) was bad enough, even with a dip burning, to show me old Spot's + face for company, I set to work, hot haste, to make some more. It was + bitter, biting cold, you bet, ma'am; and I was hard at work—just + after I had had my bit o' breakfast, before I went out for to look round + my boundary—melting and making my dips, so that they might be fine + and hard for night. I ought praps to mention that Spot used to get so + close to the fire-place, that as often as not, I dropped a mossel of the + hot grease on the dog; and if it touched a thin place in his coat, he + would jump up howling. Well, ma'am, I was pouring a pannikin full o' + biling tallow into the mould, when poor old Spot he gives a sudden howl + and yell, and runs to the door. I paid no attention to him at the time, + for I was so busy; but he went on leaping up and howling as if he had gone + mad. As soon as I could put down the pannikin out o' my hand, I went to + the door meaning to open it and,—sorry am I to say it,—kick + the poor beast out for making such a row about a drop o' hot grease. But + the dog turned his face round on me, and gave me a look as much as to say, + 'Make haste, do; there's a good chap: I ought to be outside there.' And + what with the sense shinin' in his eyes, and a curious kind o' sound + outside, I takes down the bar (for the door wouldn't stay shut otherwise), + and looks out. Never until my dyin' day, and not even then, I expect, + shall I forget what the dog and I saw lying on the ground, which was all + white and hard with frost, the sun not having got over the East range yet. + The dog he had more sense and a deal more pluck than I had, for he knows + there aint a moment to be lost; and he runs up to the flat, tumbled-down + heap o' clothes, gets on its back (for no face could I see), so as to be + doing something, and not losing time, and begins licking. Not very far off + there was a lean horse standing, but he didn't seem to like to come + through the slip-rail o' the paddock fence. + </p> + <p> + "In coorse I couldn't stand gaping there all day, so I went and stooped + down to the man, who was lying flat on his face, with his arms straight + out. He wasn't sensibleless (Palmer's favourite word for senseless), for + he opened his eyes, and said, "For God's sake, mate, take me in." "So I + will, mate," I makes reply "and welcome you are. Can you get on your legs, + think you?" With that he groans awful, and says, "My legs is friz." Well, + I looks at his legs, and sees he was dressed in what had been good + moleskins, and high jack riding-boots, coming up to his knees; but sure + enough they was as hard as a board, and actially, if you'll believe me, + ma'am, there was a rim o' solid hice round the tops of his boots. As for + standing, he couldn't do it: his legs was no more use to him than they was + to me, and he was a tall, high fellow besides. Cold as it was, I felt hot + enough by the time I had lugged that poor man inside my place, and got him + up on my bunk. He could speak, though his voice was weak as weak could be, + and he helped me as well as he could by catching hold with his arms, but + his legs was stone dead. I had to get the tommy (<i>anglice</i>-tomahawk), + and <i>chop</i> his boots off, and that's the gospel truth, ma'am. I broke + my knife, first try, and the axe was too big. He told me, poor fellow, + that two days before, as he was returning from prospecting up towards the + back ranges, his horse got away, and he <i>couldn't</i> catch him. No: he + tried with all his might and main, for in his swag, which was strapped to + the D's of his saddle, was not only his blanket, but his baccy, and tea, + and damper, and a glass o' grog. The curious thing, too, was that the + horse didn't bolt right away, as they generally do: he jest walked a-head, + knowing his master was bound to follow wherever he led, for in coorse he + had hopes to catch him every moment. That ere brute, he never laid down + nor rested,—jest kep slowly moving on, as if he was a Lunnon + street-boy, with a bobby at his heels. Through creeks and rivers and + swamps he led that poor fellow. His boots got chuck full o' cold water, + and when the sun went down it friz into solid hice; and that misfortnit + man he felt his legs—which was his life, you see, ma'am—gradially + dyin' under him. Yet he was a well-plucked one, if ever there was such a + party on this airth. He told me he had took <i>five</i> mortial hours to + come the last mile, the horse walkin' slowly afore him, and guiding him + like. And how do you think he did it, with two pillars of hice for legs? + Why he lifted up just one leg and then the other with both his hands, and + put them afore him, and took his steps that way." + </p> + <p> + Here honest Ned, his eyes glistening, and his ugly little face glowing + with emotion through its coating of sunburn, paused, as if he did not like + to go on. + </p> + <p> + I was more touched and interested than I could avoid showing, and cried, + "Oh, <i>do</i> tell me, Palmer, what became of the poor fellow! Did he + die?" + </p> + <p> + Ned cleared his throat, and moved so as to get between me and the light + from the door, as he said huskily, "He came very nigh to it, ma'am. I + never did set eyes on such a decent patient chap as that man was. I did + the very wust thing I could a' done, the town doctors told me, for I + brought him into the hut, instead o' keeping him outdoors and rubbing his + poor black legs with snow. 'Stead o' that, I wrapped him up warm in my own + blankets, after I had chipped his boots and the hice off of 'em, and I + made up a roarin' fire. Good Lord, how the poor fellow groaned when he + begun to get warm! I gave him a pannikin full o' hot tea, with a drop o' + grog in it, and that seemed to make him awful bad. At last he said, with + the sweat from sheer agony pouring down his face, "Look here, matey: + couldn't you hump me out in the snow again? for it aint nigh so bad to + bear it cold as it is to bear it hot." Not a bad word did he say, ma'am, + and he tried not to give in more nor he could help; but he was clean druv + wild with the hanguish in his legs. + </p> + <p> + "Presently I remembers, quite sudden like, that a bush doctor, name of + Tomkins, was likely to be round by Simmons, cos' o' his missus. So I got + on my 'oss in a minnit, and I rides off and fetches him, for sure enough + he was there; and though Simmons' missis wasn't to say over her troubles, + she spoke up from behind the curtain of red blanket she had put up in her + tidy little hut, and bade old Tomkins go with me. May God bless her and + hers for that same, say I! Well, ma'am, when Tomkins come back with me and + saw the poor fellow (he was fair shoutin' with the pain in his legs by + then), he said nothin' could be done. "They'll mortify by morrow mornin'," + says he, "and then he'll die easy." So with that he goes back with the + first light next day, to Simmons. Sure enough, the poor fellow did get a + bit easier next day, and I felt clear mad to think he was goin' to die + before my very eyes. "Not if I can help it!" I cries, quite savage like. + But he only smiled a patient smile, and said, "God's will be done, mate. + He knows best, and I aint in any pain to speak of, now." + </p> + <p> + "By and bye I hears a rumbling and a creaking, and cracking of whips; and + when I looks out, what do I see but the bullock-dray from Simmons' coming + up the flat. It was the only thing on wheels within forty mile, and + Simmons had brought it his own self to see if we couldn't manage to get + the poor fellow down to the nighest town. I won't make my yarn no longer + than I can help, ma'am, so I'll only mention that we made a lot o' the + strongest mutton broth you ever tasted; we slung a hammock of red blankets + in the dray, and we got the poor fellow down by evening to a gentleman's + station. There they made us kindly welcome, did all they could for him, + and transhipped the hammock into a pair-horse dray, which went quicker and + was easier. We got on as fast as we could every step of the way, and by + midnight that poor fellow was tucked into a clean bed in the hospital at + Christchurch, with both his legs neatly cut off just above the knee, for + there wasn't a minute to lose." + </p> + <p> + I was almost afraid to inquire how the sufferer fared, for Ned's eyes were + fairly swimming with unshed tears; but he smiled brightly, and said, "The + ladies and gentlemen in the town, they set up a <i>subscribetion</i>, and + bought the poor chap a first-rate pair o' wooden legs, and he could even + manage to ride about after a bit; and instead o' wandering about looking + for country, or gold, or what not, he settled down as a carrier, and + throve and did well. And I was thinking, ma'am, as how I'd like to return + thanks for that poor fellow's wonderful recovery, for I've never had a + chance of going to Church since, and its nigh upon two years ago that it + happened." + </p> + <p> + "So you shall, Ned: so you shall!" we said with one voice. And so at our + first Church gathering at our dear little antipodean home, F——, + who acted as our minister, paused in the beautiful Thanksgiving Service, + after he had read solemnly and slowly the simple words, "Especially for + Thy late mercies vouchsafed to ——," and Ned Palmer chimed in + with an "Amen,"—misplaced, indeed, but none the less hearty, and + delightful to hear. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter X: Swaggers. + </h2> + <p> + Dr. Johnson did not know the somewhat vulgar word which heads this paper. + At least he did not know it as a noun, but gives "swagger: v.n., to + bluster, bully, brag;" but the Slang Dictionary admits it as a word, + springing indeed from the thieves' vocabulary: "one who carries a swag." + Neither of these books however give the least idea of the true meaning of + the expression, which is as fully recognised as an honest word in both + Australia and New Zealand as any other combination of letters in the + English language. A swagger is the very antithesis then of a swaggerer, + for, whereas, the one is full of pretension and abounds in unjust claims + on our notice, the swagger is humility and civility itself. He knows, poor + weary tramp, that on the favourable impression he makes upon the "boss," + depends his night's lodging and food, as well as a job of work in the + future. We will leave then the ideal swaggerer to some other biographer + who may draw glowing word-pictures of him in all his jay's splendour, and + we will confine ourselves to describing the real swagger, clad in flannel + shirt, moleskin trowsers, and what were once thick boots, but might now be + used as sieves. + </p> + <p> + Nothing astonished me so much in my New Zealand Station Life as these + visitors. Even Sir Roger de Coverley himself would have looked with + distrust upon most of our swagger-guests, and yet I never heard of an + instance in our part of the country where the unhesitating, ungrudging + hospitality extended by the rich squatters to their poorer compatriots was + ever abused. I say "in our part," because unfortunately, wherever gold is + discovered, either in quartz or riverbed, the good old primitive customs + and ways die out of themselves in a few weeks, and each mammon-seeker + looks with distrust on a stranger. Only fifty or sixty miles from us, as + the crow might fly across the snowy range, where an immense Bush clothes + the banks of the Hokitika river right down to its sand-filled mouth on the + West Coast, the great gold diggings broke out seven or eight years ago, + and changed the face of society in that district in a few days. <i>There</i> + a swagger meant a man who might rob or murder you in your sleep after you + had fed and lodged him; or—under the most favourable circumstances + supposing him to be a "milder mannered man,"—a "fossicker," who + would not hesitate to "jump your claim," or hang about when you are + prospecting, to watch how much of the colour you found, and then go off + stealthily to return next day at the head of a "rush" of a thousand + diggers. + </p> + <p> + Even before the famous Maungatapu murders in 1866, swaggers were looked + upon with distrust on the West Coast, and after that date hardly any one + travelled in those parts without carrying a small revolver in his + breast-pocket. Nothing is more tantalising than an allusion to a + circumstance which is not well-known; and as I feel certain that very few + of my readers have ever heard of what may be called the first great crime + committed in the Middle Island, a brief account of that terrible tragedy + may not be out of place. Gold of course was at the bottom of it, but the + canvas-bags full of the glittering flakes were red with blood by the time + they reached the bank at Nelson. The diggings on the West Coast were only + two years old at that date, and although it was not uncommon for + prospecting parties cutting their way, axe in hand, through the thick + bush, to come upon skeletons of men in lonely places, still it might be + taken for granted that these were the remains of early explorers or + travellers who had got lost and starved to death within the green tangled + walls of this impenetrable forest. The scenery of that part of the Middle + Island is far more beautiful than in the agricultural or pastoral + districts. Giant Alps clothed half up their steep sides with evergreen + pines,—whose dark forms end abruptly where snow and ice begin,—stand + out against a pure sky of more than Italian blue, and only when a cleared + saddle is reached can the traveller look down over the wooded hills and + vallies rolling away inland before him, or turn his eyes sea-ward to the + bold coast with its many rivers, whose wide mouths foam right out to where + the great Pacific waves are heaving under the bright winter sun. + </p> + <p> + Such, and yet still more fair must have been the prospect on which + Burgess, Kelly, Levy, and Sullivan's eyes rested one June morning in the + mid-winter of 1866. They were, one and all, originally London thieves, and + had been transported years before to the early penal settlements of + Australia. From thence they had managed, by fair means and foul, to work + their way to other places, and had latterly been living in the Middle + Island, earning what they could by horse-breaking and divers odd jobs. But + your true convict hates work with a curiously deadly hatred, and these + four men agreed to go and look round them at the new West Coast diggings. + They found, however, that there, as elsewhere, it would be necessary to + work hard, so in disgust at seeing the nuggets and dust which rewarded the + toil of more industrious men, they left Hokitika and reached Nelson on + their way to Picton, the chief town of the adjoining province of + Marlborough. Most of the gold found its way under a strongly armed escort + to the banks in both these towns, but it was well-known that fortunate + diggers occasionally travelled together, unarmed, and laden with "dust." + So safe had been the roads hitherto, that the commonest precautions were + not taken, nor the least secrecy observed about travellers' movements. + </p> + <p> + It was therefore no mystery that four unarmed diggers, carrying a + considerable number of ounces of gold-dust with them, were going to start + from the Canvas-town diggings for Nelson on a certain day, and the men I + have mentioned set out to meet them. One part of their long journey led + them over the Maungatapu range by a saddle, which in its lowest part is + 2,700 feet above the sea-level. The night before the murder, the victims + and their assassins camped out with only ten miles between them. So lonely + and deserted was the rough mountain track, that the appearance of a poor + old man named Battle alarmed Burgess and his gang dreadfully, and they + immediately murdered him, in order that he should not report having passed + them on the road. Between the commission of this act of precaution and the + arrival of the little band of travellers, no one else was seen. Burgess + appears to have shown some of the qualities of a good general; for he + selected a spot where the only path wound along a steep side-cutting, less + than six feet wide, with an unbroken forest on the upper, and a mass of + tangled bush on the lower side. As the doomed men approached the murderers + sprang out, and each thrusting a revolver close to their faces, called on + them "to hold up their hands." This is an old bushranger challenge, and is + meant to ensure perfect quiescence on the part of the victim. The + travellers mechanically complied, and in this way were instantly + separated, led to different spots, and ruthlessly shot dead. + </p> + <p> + It was all over in a moment: Burgess and his men flung the bodies down + among the tangled bush, and returned to Nelson rejoicing exceedingly over + the simple and easy means by which they had possessed themselves of + several hundred pounds. Of course they calculated on the usual supine + indifference to other people's affairs, which prevails in busy + gold-seeking communities; but in this instance the public seemed to be + suddenly seized by a violent and inconvenient curiosity to find out what + had become of the four men who were known to have started from Canvas-town + two or three days before. No one ever dreamed of a murder having been + committed, not even when another "swagger" reached Nelson and stated that + he had followed the diggers on the road, only a mile or so behind, had + suddenly lost sight of them at the spot I have mentioned, and had never + been able to overtake them. Instead of leaving the now excited little + town, or keeping quiet, Burgess, Kelly, Levy, and Sullivan, may truly be + said to have become "swaggerers;" for they loitered about the place, + ostentatiously displaying their bags of gold dust. Unsuspicious as the + Nelson people were, they acted upon a sort of instinct,—that + instinct within us which answers so mysteriously to the cry of blood from + the earth,—and arrested these four men. Still, the matter might have + ended there for lack of a clue, if one of the party, Sullivan, had not + suddenly turned informer, and led the horrified town's-people to the + jungle which concealed the bodies. Here my dreadful story may end; for we + need not follow the course of the trial, which resulted in the complete + conviction of the three other men. I have only dwelt on so horrible a + theme in order to make my readers understand how natural it was that I + should feel nervous, when it became apparent to my understanding that the + custom of the country demanded that you should ask no questions, but + simply tell any travellers who claimed your hospitality where they were to + sleep, and send them in large supplies of mutton, flour, and tea. + </p> + <p> + On one occasion it chanced that F——, our stalwart cadet Mr. A——, + and the man who did odd jobs about the place, were all on the point of + setting out upon some expedition, when a party of four swaggers made their + appearance just at sundown. No true swagger ever appears earlier, lest he + might be politely requested to "move on" to the next station; whereas if + he times his arrival exactly when "the shades of night are falling fast," + no boss could be hard-hearted enough to point to mist-covered hills and + valleys, which are a net-work of deep creeks and swamps, and desire the + wayfarer to go on further. Once, and only once, did I know of such a thing + being done; but I will not say more about that unfortunate at this moment, + for I want to claim the pity of all my lady readers for the very + unprotected position I am trying to depict. F—— could not + understand my nervousness, and did not reassure me by saying, as he + mounted his horse, "I've told them to sleep in the stable. I am pretty + sure they are run-away sailors, they seem so footsore. Good-bye! don't + expect me until you see me!" + </p> + <p> + Now I was a very new chum in those days, and had just heard of the + Maungatapu murders. These guests of mine looked most disreputable, and + were all powerful young men. I do not believe there was a single lock or + bolt or bar on any door in the whole of the little wooden house: the large + plate-chest stood outside in the verandah, and my dressing-case could have + been carried off through the ever-open bedroom window by an enterprising + thief of ten years old. As for my two maids,—the only human beings + within reach,—they were as perfectly useless on any emergency as if + they had been wax dolls. One of them had the habit of fainting if anything + happened, and the other used to tend her until she revived, when they both + sat still and shrieked. Their nerves had once been tested by a carpenter, + who was employed about the house, and cut his hand badly; on another + occasion by the kitchen chimney which took fire; and that was the way they + behaved each time. So it was useless to look upon their presence as any + safeguard; indeed one of them speedily detected a fancied likeness to + Burgess in one of the poor swaggers, and shrieked every time she saw him. + </p> + <p> + We were indeed three "lone, 'lorn women," all through that weary night. I + could not close my eyes; but laid awake listening to the weka's shrill + call, or the melancholy cry of the bitterns down in the swamp. With the + morning light came hope and courage; and I must say I felt ashamed of my + suspicions when my cook came to announce that the "swaggers was just + agoin' off, and wishful to say good-bye. They've been and washed up the + tin plates and pannikins and spoons as clean as clean can be; and the one + I thought favoured Burgess so much, mum, he's been and draw'd water from + the well, all that we shall want to-day; and they're very civil, + well-spoken chaps, if you please, mum!" F—— was right in his + surmise, I fancy; for there were plenty of tattooed pictures of anchors + and ships on the brawny bare arms of my departing guests. They seemed much + disappointed to find there was no work to be had on our station; but + departed, with many thanks and blessings, "over the hills and far away." + </p> + <p> + Latterly, with increasing civilization and corresponding social economy, + there have been many attempts made by new-fangled managers of runs, more + than by the run-holders themselves, to induce these swaggers to work for + their tucker,—to use pure colonial phraseology. Several devices have + been tried, such as taking away their swags (<i>i.e.</i>, their red + blankets rolled tightly into a sort of pack, which they carry on their + backs, and derive their name from), and locking them up until they had + chopped a small quantity of wood, or performed some other trifling + domestic duty. But the swagger will be led, though not driven, and what he + often did of his own accord for the sake of a nod or a smile of thanks + from my pretty maid-servants, he would not do for the hardest words which + ever came out of a boss's mouth. There are also strict rules of honesty + observed among these men, and if one swagger were to purloin the smallest + article from a station which had fed and sheltered him, every other + swagger in all the country side would immediately become an amateur + detective to make the thief give up his spoil. A pair of old boots was + once missing from a neighbouring station, and suspicion fell upon a + swagger. Justice was perhaps somewhat tardy in this instance, as it rested + entirely in the hands of every tramp who passed that way; but at the end + of some months the boots were found at home, and the innocence of the + swaggers, individually and collectively, triumphantly established. + </p> + <p> + The only instance of harshness to a swagger which came under my notice + during three years residence in New Zealand, is the one I have alluded to + above, and contains so much dramatic interest in its details, that it may + not be out of place here. + </p> + <p> + Although I have naturally dwelt in these papers more upon our bright sunny + weather, our clear, bracing winter days, and our balmy spring and autumn + evenings, let no intending traveller think that he will not meet with bad + weather at the Antipodes! I can only repeat what I have said with pen and + voice a hundred times before. New Zealand possesses a very capricious and + disagreeable climate: disagreeable from its constant high winds: but it is + perhaps the most singularly and remarkably healthy place in the world. + This must surely arise from the very gales which I found so trying to my + temper, for damp is a word without meaning; as for mildew or miasma, the + generation who are growing up there will not know the meaning of the + words; and in spite of a warm, bright day often turning at five minutes + warning into a snowy or wet afternoon, colds and coughs are almost + unknown. People who go out there with delicate lungs recover in the most + surprising manner; surprising, because one expects the sudden changes of + temperature, the unavoidable exposure to rain and even snow, to kill + instead of curing invalids. But the practice is very unlike the theory in + this case, and people thrive where they ought to die. + </p> + <p> + During my first winter in Canterbury we had only one week of <i>really</i> + bad weather, but I felt at that time as if I had never realized before + what bad weather meant. A true "sou'-wester" was blowing from the first to + the second Monday in that July, without one moment's lull. The bitter, + furious blast swept down the mountain gorges, driving sheets of blinding + rain in a dense wall before it. Now and then the rain turned into large + snow-flakes, or the wind rose into such a hurricane that the falling water + appeared to be flashing over the drenched earth without actually touching + it. Indoors we could hardly hear ourselves speak for the noise of the wind + and rain against the shingle roof. It became a service of danger, almost + resembling a forlorn hope, to go out and drag in logs of wet wood, or draw + water from the well,—for, alas, there were no convenient taps or + snug coal-holes in our newly-erected little wooden house. We husbanded + every scrap of mutton, in very different fashion to our usual reckless + consumption, the consumption of a household which has no butcher's bill to + pay; for we knew not when the shepherd might be able to fight his way + through the storm, with half a sheep packed before him, on sturdy little + "Judy's" back. The creeks rose and poured over their banks in angry yellow + floods. Every morning casualties in the poultry yard had to be reported, + and that week cost me almost as many fowls and ducks as my great + christening party did. The first thing every morning when I opened my eyes + I used to jump up and look out of the different windows with eager + curiosity, to see if there were any signs of a break in the weather, for I + was quite unaccustomed to be pent up like a besieged prisoner for so many + succeeding days. We did not boast of shutters in those regions, and even + blinds were a luxury which were not wasted in the little hall. + Consequently, when my unsatisfactory wanderings about the silent house—for + no one else was up—led me that dreadful stormy morning into the + narrow passage called the back-hall, I easily saw through its glass-door + what seemed to me one of the most pathetic sights my eyes had ever rested + upon. + </p> + <p> + Just outside the verandah, which is the invariable addition to New Zealand + houses, stood, bareheaded, a tall, gaunt figure, whose rain-sodden + garments clung closely to its tottering limbs. A more dismal morning could + not well be imagined: the early dawn struggling to make itself apparent + through a downpour of sleet and rain, the howling wind (which one could + almost see as it drove the vapour wall before it), and the profound + solitude and silence of all except the raging storm. + </p> + <p> + At first I thought I must be dreaming, so silent and hopeless stood that + weird figure. My next impulse, without staying to consider my dishevelled + hair and loose wrapper, was to open the door and beckon the poor man + within the shelter of the verandah. When once I had got him there I did + not exactly know what to do with my guest, for neither fire nor food could + be procured quite so early. He crouched like a stray dog down on the + dripping mat outside the door, and murmured some unintelligible words. In + this dilemma I hastened to wake up poor F——, who found it + difficult to understand why I wanted him to get up at daylight during a + "sou'-wester." But I entreated him to go to the hall door, whilst I flew + off to get my lazy maids out of their warm beds. With all their faults, + they did not need much rousing on that occasion. I suppose I used very + forcible words to convey the misery of the object standing outside, for I + know that Mary was in floods of tears, and had fastened her gown on over + her night-gear, whilst I was still speaking; and the cook had tumbled out + of bed, and was kneeling before the kitchen fire with her eyes shut, + kindling a blaze, apparently, in her sleep. + </p> + <p> + As soon as things were in this forward state, I returned to the verandah, + and found our swagger guest drawing a very long breath after a good nip of + pure whisky which F—— had promptly administered to him. "I'm + fair clemmed wi' cold and wet," the swagger said, still bundled up in his + comparatively sheltered corner. "I've been out on the hills the whole + night, and I am deadbeat. Might I stop here for a bit?" He asked this very + doubtfully, for it is quite against swagger etiquette to demand shelter in + the morning. For all answer he was taken by the shoulder, and helped up. I + never shall forget the poor tramp's deprecating face, as he looked back at + me, whilst he was being led through the pretty little dining-room, with + its bright carpet, on which his clay-clogged boots and dripping garments + left a muddy, as well as a watery track. "All right," I said, with + colonial brevity; and so we escorted our strange guest through the house + into the kitchen, where the ever-ready kettle and gridiron were busy + preparing tea and chops over a blazing fire. Of course the maids screamed + when they saw us, and I do not wonder at their doing so, for neither F—— + nor I looked very respectable, with huddled on dressing-gowns and towzled + hair; whilst our foot-sore, drenched guest subsided into a chair by the + door, covered his wretched pinched face with two bony hands, and burst + into tears. I certainly never expected to see a swagger cry, and F—— + declared the sight was quite as new to him as to me. However, the poor + man's tears and helplessness gave fresh energy to my maids' treacherous + nerves, and they even suggested dry clothes. Our good-natured cadet, who + at this moment appeared on the scene, was only too happy to find some + outlet for <i>his</i> superfluous benevolence, and hastened off, to return + in a moment or two with an old flannel shirt, dry and whole, in spite of + its faded stripes, a pair of moleskin trousers, and a huge pair of canvas + cricketing shoes. It was no time for ceremony, so we women retreated for a + few minutes into the store-room, whilst F—— and Mr. A—— + made the swagger's toilette, getting so interested in their task as even + to part his dripping hair out of his eyes. He had no swag, poor fellow, + having lost his roll of red blankets in one of the treacherous bog-holes + across the range. + </p> + <p> + That man was exactly like a lost, starving dog. He ate an enormous + breakfast, curled himself upon some empty flour-sacks in a dry corner of + the kitchen, and slept till dinner time; then another sleep until the + supper hour, and so on, the round of he clock. All this time he never + spoke, though we were dying to hear how he had come into such a plight. + The "sou'-wester" still raged furiously out of doors without a moment's + cessation, and we were obliged to have recourse to the tins of meat kept + in the store-room for such an emergency. The shepherd told us afterwards + he had ventured out to look for some wethers, his own supply being + exhausted, but the whole mob had hidden themselves so cleverly that + neither man nor dog could discover their place of shelter. On the Monday + night, exactly a week after the outbreak of bad weather; the skies showed + signs of having exhausted themselves, and nature began to wear a sulky + air, as if her temper were but slowly recovering herself. The learned in + such matters, however, took a cheerful view of affairs, and declared the + worst to be over,—"for this bout,"—as they cautiously added. + </p> + <p> + Whether it was the three days of rest, warmth, and good food which + unlocked the swagger's heart, or not, I do not pretend to decide; but that + evening, over a pipe in the kitchen, he confided to Mr. A——that + he had been working his way down to the sea-coast from a station where he + had been employed, very far back in the hill ranges. The "sou'-wester" had + overtaken him about twenty miles from us, but only five from another + station, where he had applied towards the evening for shelter, being even + then drenched with rain, and worn out by struggling through such a + tremendous storm. There, for some reason which I confess did not seem very + clear, he had been refused the unvarying hospitality extended in New + Zealand to all travellers, rich or poor, squatter or swagger, and had been + directed to take a short cut across the hills to our station, which he was + assured could easily be reached in an hour or two more. The track, a + difficult one enough to strike in summer weather, became, indeed, + impossible to discover amid rushing torrents and driving wind and rain; + besides which, as the poor fellow repeated more than once during his + story, "I was fair done up when I set out, for I'd been travelling all + day." Mr. A—— told us what the man had been saying, before we + all went to bed, adding, "He seems an odd, surly kind of creature, for + although he declares he is going away the first thing to-morrow, if the + rain be over, I noticed he never said a word approaching to thanks." + </p> + <p> + The rain was indeed over next morning, and a flood of brilliant sunshine + awoke me "bright and early," as the country people say. It seemed + impossible to stop in bed, so I jumped up, thrust my feet into slippers, + and my arms into a warm dressing-gown, and sallied forth, opening window + after window, so as to let the sunshine into rooms which not even a week's + steady down-pour could render damp. What a morning it was, and for + mid-winter too! No haze, or fog, or vapour on all the green hills, whose + well-washed sides were glistening in a bright glow of sunlight. For the + first time, too, since the bad weather had set in, was to be heard the + incessant bleat which is music to the ears of a New Zealand sheep-farmer. + White, moving, calling patches on the hillsides told that the sheep were + returning to their favourite pastures, and a mob of horses could be + descried quietly feeding on the sunny flat. + </p> + <p> + But I had no eyes for beauties of mountain or sky. I could do nothing but + gaze on the strange figure of the silent swagger, who knelt yes, + positively knelt, on the still wet and shining shingle which formed an + apology for a gravel path up to the back-door of the little wooden + homestead. His appearance was very different to what it had been three + days before. Now his clothes were dry and clean and mended,—my Irish + maids doing; bless their warm hearts! He had cobbled up his boots himself, + and his felt hat, which had quite recovered from its drenching, lay at his + side. The perfect rest and warmth and good food had filled up his hollow + cheeks, but still his countenance was a curious one; and never, until my + dying day, can I forget the rapture of entreaty on that man's upturned + face. It brings the tears into my own eyes now to recollect its beseeching + expression. I do not think I ever <i>saw</i> prayer before or since. He + did not perceive me, for I had hidden behind a sheltering curtain, to + listen to his strange, earnest petitions; so he could not know that + anybody in the house was stirring, for he knelt at the back, and all my + fussings had taken place in the front, and he could not, therefore, have + been doing anything for effect. + </p> + <p> + There, exactly where he had crouched a wretched, way-worn tramp in pouring + rain, he knelt now with the flood of sunshine streaming down on his + uplifted face, whilst he prayed for the welfare and happiness, + individually and collectively, of every living creature within the house. + Then he stood up and lifted his hat from the ground; but before he + replaced it on his head, he turned, with a gesture which would have made + the fortune of any orator,—a gesture of mingled love and farewell, + and solemnly blessed the roof-tree which had sheltered him in his hour of + need. I could not help being struck by the extraordinarily good language + in which he expressed his fervent desires, and his whole bearing seemed + quite different to that of the silent, half-starved man we had kept in the + kitchen these last three days. I watched him turn and go, noiselessly + closing the garden gate after him, and—shall I confess it?—my + heart has always felt light whenever I think of that swagger's blessing. + When we all met at breakfast I had to take his part, and tell of the scene + I had witnessed; for everybody was inclined to blame him for having stolen + away, scarcely without saying good-bye, or expressing a word of thanks for + the kindness he had received. But I knew better. + </p> + <p> + From the sublime to the ridiculous we all know the step is but short, + especially in the human mind; and to my tender mood succeeds the + recollection of an absurd panic we once suffered from, about swaggers. + Exaggerated stories had reached us, brought by timid fat men on horseback, + with bulky pocket-books, who came to buy our wethers for the Hokitika + market, of "sticking up" having broken out on the west land. I fear my + expressions are often unintelligible to an English reader, but in this + instance I will explain. "Sticking up" is merely a concise colonial + rendering of "Your money or your life," and was originally employed by + Australian bushrangers, those terrible freebooters whose ranks used to be + always recruited from escaped convicts. Fortunately we had no community of + that class, only a few prisoners kept in a little ricketty wooden house in + Christchurch, from which an enterprising baby might easily have escaped. I + dare say as we get more civilized out there, we shall build ourselves + handsome prisons and penitentiaries; but in those early days a story was + current of a certain jailor who let all his captives out on some festal + occasion, using the tremendous threat, that whoever had not returned by + eight o'clock should be "<i>locked out!</i>" + </p> + <p> + But to return to that particular winter evening. We had been telling each + other stories which we had heard or read of bushranging exploits, until we + were all as nervous as possible. Ghosts, or even burglar stories, are + nothing to the horror of a true bushranger story, and F—— had + made himself particularly ghastly and disagreeable by giving a minute + account of an adventure which had been told to him by one of the + survivors. + </p> + <p> + We listened, with the wind howling outside, to F——'s horrid + second-hand story, of how one fine day up country, eight or ten men,—station + hands,—were "stuck up" by one solitary bushranger, armed to the + teeth. He tied them up one by one, and seated them all on a bench in the + sun, and deliberately fired at and wounded the youngest of the party; + then, seized with compunction, he unbound one of the captives, and stood + over him, revolver in hand, whilst he saddled and mounted a horse, to go + for a doctor to set the poor boy's broken leg. Before the messenger had + gone "a league, a league, but barely twa',"—the freebooter + recollected that he might bring somebody else back with him besides the + doctor, and flinging himself across his horse, rode after the affrighted + man, and coolly shot him dead. I really don't know how the story ended: I + believe everybody perished; but at this juncture I declared it to be + impossible to sit up any longer to listen to such tragedies, and went to + bed. + </p> + <p> + Exactly at midnight,—the proper hour for ghosts; burglars, and + bushrangers, and such "small deer" to be about, everybody was awakened + simultaneously by a loud irregular knocking, which sounded with hollow + reverberations all through the wooden house. "Bushrangers!" we all + thought, every one of us; for although burglars may not usually knock at + hall-doors in England, it is by no means uncommon for their bolder + brethren to do so at the other end of the world. It is such a comfort to + me now, looking back on that scene to remember that our stalwart cadet was + as frightened as anybody. <i>He</i> stood six feet one in his stockings, + and was a match for any two in the country side, and yet, I am happy to + think, he was as bad as any one. As for me, to say that my heart became + like water and my knees like soft wax, is to express in mild words my + state of abject terror. There was no need to inquire what the maids + thought, for smothered shrieks, louder and louder as each peal of knocks + vibrated through the little house, proclaimed sufficiently their + sentiments on the subject. + </p> + <p> + Dear me, how ridiculous it all must have been! In one corner of the + ceiling of our bedroom was a little trap-door which opened into an attic + adjoining that where the big cadet slept. Now whilst F—— was + hurriedly taking down his double-barrelled gun from its bracket just below + this aperture, and I held the candlestick with so shaky a hand that the + extinguisher clattered like a castanet, this door was slowly lifted up, + and a large white face, with dishevelled stubbly hair and wide-open blue + eyes, looked down through the cobwebs, saying in a husky whisper, "Could + you let me have a rifle, or any thing?" This was our gallant cadet, who + had no idea of presenting himself at a disadvantage before the foe. I had + desperately seized a revolver, but F—— declared that if I + persisted in carrying it I certainly should go first, as he did not wish + to be shot in the back. + </p> + <p> + We held a hurried council of war,—Mr. A—— assisting + through the trap door, and the maids breathing suggestions through the + partition-planks,—but the difficulty consisted in determining at + which door the knocking was going on. Some said one, and some another (for + there were many modes of egress from the tiny dwelling); but at last F—— + cried decidedly, "We must try them all in succession," and shouldering his + gun, with the revolver sticking in the girdle of his dressing-gown, + sallied valiantly forth. I don't know what became of Mr. A——: + I believe he took up a position with the rifle pointing downwards; the + maids retreated beneath their blankets, and I (too frightened to stay + behind) followed closely, armed with an Indian boar-spear. F—— + flung the hall door wide open, and called out, "Who's there?" but no one + answered. The silence was intense, and so was the cold; therefore we + returned speedily indoors to consult. "It must be at the back door," I + urged; adding, "that is the short cut down the valley, where bushrangers + would be most likely to come." "Bushrangers, you silly child!" laughed F——. + "It's most likely a belated swagger, or else somebody who is playing us a + trick." However as he spoke a succession of fierce and loud knocks + resounded through the whole house. "It must be at the kitchen door," F—— + said. "Come along, and stand well behind me when I open the door." + </p> + <p> + But we never opened the door; for on our way through the kitchen, with its + high-pitched and unceiled roof,—a very cavern for echoes,—we + discovered the source of the noise, and of our fright. Within a large + wooden packing-case lay a poor little lamb, and its dying throes had + wakened us all up, as it kicked expiring kicks violently against the side + of the box. It was my doing bringing it indoors, for I never <i>could</i> + find it in my heart to leave a lamb out on the hills if we came across a + dead ewe with her baby bleating desolately and running round her body. F—— + always said, "You cannot rear a merino lamb indoors; the poor little thing + will only die all the same in a day or two;" and then I am sorry to say he + added in an unfeeling manner, "They are not worth much now," as if that + could make any difference! I had brought this, as I had brought scores of + others, home in my arms from a long distance off; fed it out of a baby's + bottle, rubbed it dry, and put it to sleep in a warm bed of hay at the + bottom of this very box. They had all died quietly, after a day or two, in + spite of my devotion and nursing, but this little foundling kicked herself + out of the world with as much noise as would have sufficed to summon a + garrison to surrender. It is all very well to laugh at it now, but we + were, five valiant souls in all, as thoroughly frightened at the time as + we could well be. + </p> + <p> + The only real harm a swagger did me was to carry off one of my best + maidservants as his wife, but as he had 300 pounds in the bank at + Christchurch, and was only travelling about looking for work, and they + have lived in great peace and prosperity ever since, I suppose I ought not + to complain. This swagger was employed in deepening our well, and Mary was + always going to see how he was getting on, so he used to make love to her, + looking up from the bottom of a deep shaft, and shouting compliments to + her from a depth of sixty feet. What really won her Irish heart, though, + was his calmly putting a rival, a shepherd, into a water-butt. She could + not resist that, so they were married, and are doing well. + </p> + <p> + Let no one despise swaggers. They are merely travelling workmen, and would + pay for their lodging if it was the custom to do so. I am told that even + now they are fast becoming things of the past; for one could not "swagger" + by railroad, and most of our beautiful happy vallies will soon have a line + of rails laid down throughout its green and peaceful length. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter X: Changing servants. + </h2> + <p> + To the eyes of an English housewife the title of this chapter must appear + a very bad joke indeed, and the amusement what the immortal Mrs. Poyser + would call "a poor tale." Far be it from me to make light of the misery of + a tolerably good servant coming to you after three months' service, just + as you were beginning to feel settled and comfortable, and announcing with + a smile that she was going to be married; or, with a flood of tears, that + she found it "lonesome." Either of these two contingencies was pretty sure + to arise at least four times a year on a station. + </p> + <p> + At first I determined to do all I could to make their new home so + attractive to my two handmaidens that they would not wish to leave it + directly. In one of Wilkie Collins' books an upholsterer is represented as + saying that if you want to domesticate a woman, you should surround her + with bird's-eye maple and chintz. That must have been exactly my idea, for + the two rooms which I prepared for my maidservants were small, indeed, yet + exquisitely pretty. Of course I should not have been so foolish as to buy + any of the unnecessary and dainty fittings with which they were decorated, + but as all the furniture and belongings of an English house, a good deal + larger than our station home, had been taken out to it, there were sundry + toilet tables, etc., whose destination would have been a loft over the + stable, if I had not used them for my maids. + </p> + <p> + I had seen and chosen two very respectable young women in Christchurch, + one as a cook, and the other as a housemaid. The cook, Euphemia by name, + was a tall, fat, flabby woman, with a pasty complexion, but a nice + expression of face, and better manners than usual. She turned out to be + very good natured, perfectly ignorant though willing to learn, and was + much admired by the neighbouring <i>cockatoos</i>, or small farmers. Lois + the housemaid, was the smallest and skimpiest and most angular girl I ever + beheld. At first I regarded her with deep compassion, imagining that she + was about fifteen years of age, and had been cruelly ill-treated and + starved. How she divined what was passing in my mind I cannot tell, but + during our first interview she suddenly fired up, and informed me that she + was twenty-two years old, that she was the seventh child of a seventh + child, and therefore absolutely certain to achieve some wonderful piece of + good luck; and furthermore, that she had been much admired in her own part + of the country, and was universally allowed to be "the flower of the + province." This statement, delivered with great volubility and defiant + jerkiness of manner, rather took my breath away; but it was a case of + "Hobson's choice" just then about servants, and as I was assured she was a + respectable girl, I closed with her terms (25 pounds a year and all found) + on the spot. The fat pale cook was to get 35 pounds. Now-a-days I hear + that wages are somewhat lower, but the sums I have named were the average + figures of six or seven years ago, especially "up-country." + </p> + <p> + Here I feel impelled to repeat the substance of what I have stated + elsewhere,—that these rough, queer servants were, as a general rule, + perfectly honest, and of irreproachable morals, besides working, in their + own curious fashion, desperately hard. Our family was an exceptionally + small one, and the "place" was considered "light, you bet," but even then + it seemed to me as if both my domestics worked very hard. In the first + place there was the washing; two days severe work, under difficulties + which they thought nothing of. All the clothes had to be taken to a boiler + fixed in the side of a hill, for the convenience of the creek, and washed + and rinsed under a blazing sun (for of course it never was attempted on a + wet day) and amid clouds of sand-flies. Not until evening was this really + hard day's work over, and the various garments fluttering in the breeze up + a valley behind the house. The chances were strongly in favour of a + tremendous nor'-wester coming down this said valley during the night, and + in that case there would not be a sign next morning of any of the clothes. + Heavy things, such as sheets or table cloths, might be safely looked for + under lee of the nearest gorse hedge, but it would be impossible even to + guess where the lighter and more diaphanous articles had been whisked to. + A week afterwards the shepherds used to bring in stray cuffs and collars, + and upon one occasion "Judy," the calf, was discovered in a paddock hard + by, breakfasting off my best pocket handkerchiefs with an excellent + appetite. Of course everything was dirty, and needed to be washed over + again. We had a mangle, which greatly simplified matters on the second + day, but it used not to be uncommon on back-country stations to get up the + fine things with a flat stone, heated in the wood ashes, for an iron. + After the washing operations had been brought to a more or less successful + ending, there came the yeast making and the baking, followed by the + brewing of sugar beer, preserves had to be made, bacon cured, all sorts of + things to be done, besides the daily duties of scrubbing and cleaning, and + cooking at all hours for stray visitors or "swaggers." + </p> + <p> + But I am overcome with contrition at perceiving into what a digression I + have wandered; having strayed from my maids' rooms to their duties. They + arrived as usual on a dray late in the evening, tired and wearied enough, + poor souls. In those early days I had not yet plucked up courage to try my + hand in the kitchen, and our meals had been left to the charge of F——, + who, whatever he may be in other relations of life, is a vile cook; and + our good-natured cadet Mr. U——, who was exceedingly willing, + but profoundly ignorant of the elements of cookery. For fear of being + tempted into another digression, I will briefly state that during that + week I lived in a chronic state of hunger and heartburn, and sought + forgetfulness from repeated attacks of indigestion, by decorating my + servants' rooms. They opened into each other, and it would have been hard + to find two prettier little nests. Each had its shining brass bedstead + with chintz hangings, its muslin-draped toilette table, and its daintily + curtained window, besides a pretty carpet. I can remember now the sort of + dazed look with which Euphemia regarded a room such as she had never seen; + whilst Lois considered it to be an instalment of her good luck, and + proceeded to contemplate her sharp and elfish countenance in her + looking-glass, pronouncing it as her opinion that she wanted more colour. + That she certainly did, and she might have added, more flesh and + youthfulness, while she was about it. However, they were greatly + delighted, and Euphemia who was of a grateful and affectionate + disposition, actually thanked me, for having with my own hands arranged + such pretty rooms for them. + </p> + <p> + This was a very good beginning. They were both hard-working, civil girls, + and got on very well together, leaving me plenty of leisure to attend to + the quantities of necessary arrangements which have to be made when you + are settling yourself for good, fifty miles from a shop, and on a spot + where no other human being has ever lived before. F—— + congratulated myself in private on my exceptional good luck, and + attributed it partly to my having followed the Upholsterer's advice in + that book of Mr. Wilkie Collins. But as it turned out, F—— was + dwelling in a fool's paradise. In vain had it been pointed out to me that + a certain stalwart north countryman, whose shyness could only be equalled + by his appetite, had been a most regular attendant for some weeks past at + our Sunday evening services, accepting the offer of tea in the kitchen, + afterwards, with great alacrity. I scouted these insinuations, appealing + to the general sense of the public as to whether Moffatt had <i>ever</i> + been known to refuse a meal anywhere, or under any circumstances, and + declaring that, if he was "courting," it was being done in solemn silence, + for never a sound filtered through the thin wooden planks between the + kitchen and the dining room, except the clatter of a vigorously plied + knife and fork, for Moffatt's teas always included a shoulder of mutton. + </p> + <p> + But I was wrong and others were right. Early in October, our second spring + month, I chanced to get up betimes one delicious, calm morning, a morning + when it seemed a new and exquisite pleasure to open each window in + succession, and fill one's lungs with a deep, deep breath of that heavenly + atmosphere, at once so fresh and so pure. + </p> + <p> + Quiet as the little homestead lay, nestled among the hills, there were too + many morning noises stirring among the animals for any one to feel lonely + or dull, I should have thought. From a distance came a regular, + monotonous, lowing sound. That was "Hetty," the pretty little yellow + Alderney, announcing from the swamps that she and her two female friends + were quite ready to be milked. Their calves answered them dutifully from + the English grass paddock, and between the two I could see Mr. U——'s + tall figure stalking down the flat with his cattle dog at his heels, and + hear his merry whistle shrilling through the silent air. Then all the + ducks and fowls about the place were inquiring, in noisy cackle, how long + it would be before breakfast was ready, whilst "Helen's" whinneying made + me turn my head to see her, with a mob of horses at her heels, coming over + the nearest ridge on the chance of a stray carrot or two going begging. + All the chained-up dogs were pulling at the staples of their fastenings, + and entreating by short, joyous barks, to be allowed just one good frisk + and roll in the sparkling dewy grass around. But even I, universal spoiler + of animals that I am, was obliged to harden my heart against their noisy + appeals; for quite close to the stable, on the nearest hill-side, an + immense mob of sheep and young lambs were feeding. That steep incline had + been burnt six weeks before, and was now as green as the clover field at + its base, affording a delicious pasturage to these nursing mothers and + their frisky infants. I think I see and hear it all now. The moving white + patches on the hill-side, the incessant calling and answering, the racing + and chasing among the curly little merino lambs, and above all the fair + earth the clear vault of an almost cloudless sky bent itself in a deep + blue dome. Just over the eastern hills the first long lances of the sun + lay in bright shafts of silver sheen on the dew-laden tussocks, and that + peculiar morning fragrance rose up from the moist ground, which is as much + the reward of the early riser as the early worm is of the bird. + </p> + <p> + Was it a morning for low spirits or sobs and sighs? Surely not; and yet as + I turned the handle of the kitchen door those melancholy sounds struck my + ear. I had intended to make my entrance with a propitiatory smile, + suitable to such a glorious morning, proceed to pay my damsels a graceful + compliment on their somewhat unusual early rising, and wind up with a + request for a cup of tea. But all these friendly purposes went out of my + head when I beheld Euphemia seated on the rude wooden settle, with its + chopped tussock mattrass, which had been covered with a bright cotton + damask, and was now called respectfully, "the kitchen sofa." Her arm was + round Lois's waist, and she had drawn that young lady's shock head of red + curls down on her capacious bosom. Both were crying as if their hearts + would break, and startled as I felt to see these floods of tears, it + struck me how incongruous their attitude looked against the background of + the large window through which all nature looked so smiling and sparkling. + The kettle was singing on the fire, everything seemed bright and snug and + comfortable indoors. "What in the world has happened?" I gasped, really + frightened. + </p> + <p> + "Nothing, mem: its only them sheep," sobbed Euphemia, "calling like. They + always makes me cry. Your tea 'll be ready directly, mem" (this last with + a deep sigh.) + </p> + <p> + "Is it possible you are crying about that?" I inquired. "Yes, mem, yes," + said Euphemia, in heart-broken accents, clasping Lois, who was positively + howling, closer to her sympathetic heart. "Its terrible to hear 'em. They + keeps calling and answering each other, and that makes us think of our + home and friends." Now both these women had starved as factory "hands" all + their lives, and I used to feel much more inclined to cry when they told + me, all unconscious of the pathos, stories of their baby work and + hardships. Certainly they had never seen a sheep until they came to New + Zealand, and as they had particularly mentioned the silence which used to + reign supreme at the manufactory during work hours, I could not trace the + connection between a dingy, smoky, factory, and a bright spring morning in + this delightful valley. "What nonsense!" I cried, half laughing and half + angry. "You can't be in earnest. Why you must both be ill: let me give you + each a good dose of medicine." I said this encouragingly, for there was + nothing in the world Euphemia liked so much as good substantial physic, + and the only thing I ever needed to keep locked up from her was the + medicine drawer. + </p> + <p> + Euphemia seemed touched and grateful, and her face brightened up directly, + but Lois looked up with her frightful little face more ugly than usual, as + she said, spitefully, "Physic won't make them nasty sheep hold their + tongues. I'm sure <i>this</i> isn't the place for me to find my luck, so + I'd rather go, if you please, mem. I've prospected-up every one o' them + gullies and never seen the colour yet, so it ain't any good my stopping." + </p> + <p> + This was quite a fresh light thrown upon the purpose of Lois's long lonely + rambles. She used to be off and away, over the hills whenever she had + finished her daily work, and I encouraged her rambles, thinking the fresh + air and exercise must do her a world of good. Never had I guessed that the + sordid little puss was turning over every stone in the creek in her search + for the shining flakes. + </p> + <p> + "Why did you think you should find gold here?" I asked. + </p> + <p> + "Because they do say it lies in all these mountain streams," she answered + sullenly; "and I'm always dreaming of nuggets. Not that a girl with my + face and figure wants 'dust' to set her off, however. But if its all the + same to you, mem, I'd rather leave when Euphemia does." + </p> + <p> + "Are <i>you</i> going, then?" I inquired, turning reproachfully to my + pale-faced cook, who actually coloured a little as she answered, "Well, + mem, you see Moffatt says he's got his window frames in now, and he'll + glass them the very first chance, and I think it'll be more company for me + on Saddler's Flat. So if you'll please to send me down in the dray, I + should be obliged." + </p> + <p> + Here was a pretty upset, and I went about my poultry-feeding with a heavy + heart. How was I to get fresh servants, and above all, what was I to do + for cooking during the week they were away? These questions fortunately + settled themselves in rather an unexpected manner. I heard of a very nice + willing girl who was particularly anxious to come up as housemaid, to my + part of the world, on condition that I should also engage as cook her + sister, who was leaving a place on the opposite side of a range of high + hills to the south. I shall only briefly say that all inquiries about + these damsels proved satisfactory, and I could see Euphemia and Lois + depart, with tolerable equanimity. The former wept, and begged for a box + of Cockles' pills; but Lois tossed her elfish head, and gave me to + understand that she had never been properly admired or appreciated whilst + in my service. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XII: Culinary troubles. + </h2> + <p> + I want to lodge a formal complaint against all cookery books. They are not + the least use in the world, until you know how to cook! and then you can + do without them. Somebody ought to write a cookery book which would tell + an unhappy beginner whether the water in which she proposes to put her + potatoes is to be hot or cold; how long such water is to boil; how she is + to know whether the potatoes are done enough; how to dry them after they + have boiled, and similar things, which make all the difference in the + world. + </p> + <p> + To speak like Mr. Brooke for a moment. "Rice now: I have dabbled in that a + good deal myself, and found it wouldn't do at all." + </p> + <p> + Of course in time, and after many failures, I did learn to boil a potato + which would not disgrace me, and to bake bread, besides in time attaining + to puddings and cakes, of which I don't mind confessing I was modestly + proud. It used to be a study, I am told, to watch my face when a cake had + turned out as it ought. Gratified vanity at the lavish encomiums bestowed + on it, and horrified dismay at the rapidity with which a good sized cake + disappeared down the throats of the company, warred together in the most + artless fashion. The reflection would arise that it was almost a pity it + should be eaten up so very fast; yet was it not a fine thing to be able to + make such a cake! and oh, would the next be equally good? + </p> + <p> + One lesson I leaned in my New Zealand kitchen,—and that was not to + be too hard on the point of breakages; for no one knows, unless from + personal experience, how true was the Irish cook's apology for breaking a + dish, when she said that it let go of her hand. I declare that I used, at + last, to regard my plates and dishes, cups and saucers, yea, even the + pudding basons, not as so much china and delf, but as troublesome imps, + possessed with an insane desire to dash themselves madly on the kitchen + floor upon the least provocation. Every woman knows what a slippery thing + to hold is a baby in its tub. I am in a position to pronounce that wet + plates and dishes are far more difficult to keep hold of. They have a way + of leaping out of your fingers, which must be felt to be believed. After + my first week in my kitchen I used to wonder, not at the breakages, but at + anything remaining unbroken. + </p> + <p> + My maids had a very ingenious method of disposing of the fragments of + their pottery misfortunes. At the back of the house an open patch of + ground, thickly covered with an under-growth of native grass, and the + usual large proportion of sheltering tussocks stretched away to the foot + of the nearest hill. This was burned every second year or so, and when the + fire had passed away the sight it revealed was certainly very curious. + Beneath each tussock had lain concealed a small heap of broken china, + which must have been placed there in the dead of the night. The + delinquents had evidently been at the pains to perfect their work of + destruction by reducing the china articles in question, to the smallest + imaginable fragments, for fear of a protruding corner betraying the clever + <i>cache</i>; and the contrast afforded to the blackened ground on which + they lay, by the gay patches of tiny fragments huddled together, was droll + indeed. That was the moment for recognising the remains of a favourite jug + or plate, or even a beloved tea-cup. There they were all laid in neat + little heaps, and the best of it was that the existing cook always + declared loudly her astonishment at the base ingenuity of such conduct, + although I could not fail to recognise many a plate or dish which had + disappeared from the land of the living during her reign. + </p> + <p> + All housekeepers will sympathise with my feelings at seeing an amateur + scullion, who had distinguished himself greatly in the Balaklava charge, + but who appeared to have no idea that boiling water would scald his + fingers,—drop the top plate of a pile which he had placed in a tub + before him. In spite of my entreaties to be allowed to "wash-up" myself, + he gallantly declared that he could do it beautifully, and that the great + thing was to have the water very hot. In pursuance of this theory he + poured the contents of a kettle of boiling water over his plates, plunged + his hand in, and dropped the top plate, with a shriek of dismay, on those + beneath it. Out of consideration for that well-meaning emigrant's + feelings, I abstain from publishing the list of the killed and wounded, + briefly stating that he might almost as well have fired a shot among my + poor plates. A perfect fountain of water and chips and bits of china flew + up into the air, and I really believe that hardly one plate remained + uncracked. So much for one's friends. I must candidly state that although + the servants broke a good deal, we destroyed twice as much amongst us + during the week which must needs elapse between their departure and, the + arrival of the new ones. + </p> + <p> + Shall I ever forget the guilty pallor which overspread the bronzed and + bearded countenance of one of my guests, who particularly wished to dust + the drawing-room ornaments, when on hearing a slight crash I came into the + room and found him picking up the remains of a china shepherdess? + Considering everything, I kept my temper remarkably well, merely observing + that he had better go into the verandah and sit down with a book and his + pipe, and send Joey in to help me. Joey was a little black monkey from + Panama, who had to be provided with broken bits of delf or china in order + that he might amuse himself by breaking them ingeniously into smaller + fragments. + </p> + <p> + But the real object of this chapter was to relate some of my own private + misfortunes in the cooking line. Once, when Alice S—— was + staying with me and we had no servants, she and I undertook to bake a very + infantine and unweaned pig. It was all properly arranged for us, and, + making up a good fire, we proceeded to cook the little monster. + </p> + <p> + Hours passed by; all the rest of the dinner got itself properly cooked at + the right time, but the pig presented exactly the same appearance at dewy + eve as it had done in the early morn. We looked rather crest-fallen at its + pale condition when one o'clock struck, but I said cheerfully, "Oh, I + daresay it will be ready by supper!" But it was not: not a bit of it. Of + course we searched in those delusive cookery books, but they only told us + what sauces to serve with a roasted pig, or how to garnish it, entering + minutely into a disquisition upon whether a lemon or an orange had better + be stuck into its mouth. We wanted to know how to cook it, and why it + would not get itself baked. About an hour before supper-time I grew + desperate at the anticipation of the "chaff" Alice and I would certainly + have to undergo if this detestable animal could not be produced in a + sufficiently cooked state by evening. We took it out of the oven and + contemplated it with silence and dismay. Fair as ever did that pig appear, + and as if it had no present intention of being cooked at all. A sudden + idea came into our heads at the same moment, but it was Alice who first + whispered, "Let us cut off its head." "Yes," I cried; "I am sure that + prevents its roasting or baking, or whatever it is." So we got out the big + carving knife and cut off the piggy's head. Far be it from me to offer any + solution of the theory why the head should have interfered with the baking + process, but all I know is, that, like the old woman in the nursery song, + everything began to go right, and we got our supper that night. + </p> + <p> + Has anybody ever reflected on how difficult it must be to get a chimney + swept without ever a sweep or even a brush? Luckily our chimneys were + short and wide, and we used a good deal of wood; so in three years the + kitchen chimney only needed to be cleansed twice. The first time it was + cleared of soot by the simple process of being set on fire, but as a light + nor'-wester was blowing, the risk to the wooden roof became very great and + could only be met by spreading wet blankets over the shingles. We had a + very narrow escape of losing our little wooden house, and it was fortunate + it happened just at the men's dinner hour when there was plenty of help + close at hand. However great my satisfaction at feeling that at last my + chimney had been thoroughly swept, there was evidently too much risk about + the performance to admit of its being repeated, so about a year afterwards + I asked an "old chum" what I was to do with my chimney. "Sweep it with a + furze-bush, to be sure," she replied. I mentioned this primitive receipt + at home, and the idea was carried out a day or two later by one man + mounting on the roof of the house whilst another remained in the kitchen; + the individual on the roof threw down a rope to the one below, who + fastened a large furze-bush in the middle, they each held an end of this + rope, and so pulled it up and down the chimney until the man below was as + black as any veritable sweep, and had to betake himself, clothes and all, + to a neighbouring creek. As for the kitchen, its state cannot be better + described than in my Irish cook's words, who cried, "Did mortial man ever + see sich a ridiklous mess? Arrah, why couldn't ye let it be thin?" But for + all that she set bravely to work and got everything clean and nice once + more, merely stipulating that the next time we were going to sweep chimney + we should let her know beforehand, that she might go somewhere "right + away." + </p> + <p> + I feel, however, that in all these reminiscences I am straying widely from + the point which was before my mind when I began this chapter, and that is + the delusiveness of a cookery book. No book which I have ever seen tells + you, for instance, how to boil rice properly. They all insist that the + grains must be white and dry and separate, but they omit to describe the + process by which these results can be attained. They tell you what you are + to do with your rice after it is boiled, but not how to boil it. The fact + is, I suppose, that the people who write such books began so early to be + cooks themselves, that they forget there ever was a time when such simple + things were unknown to them. + </p> + <p> + Even when I had, after many failures, mastered the art of boiling rice, + and also of making an excellent curry,—for which accomplishment I + was indebted to the practical teaching of a neighbour,—there used + still to be misfortunes in store for me. One of these caused me such a + bitter disappointment that I have never quite forgotten it. This was the + manner of it. We were without servants. My readers must not suppose that + such was our chronic condition, but when you come to change your servants + three or four times a year, and have to "do" for yourself each time during + the week which must elapse before the arrival of new ones, there is an + ample margin for every possible domestic misadventure. If any doubt me, + let them try for themselves. + </p> + <p> + On this special occasion, which proved to be nearly the last, my mind was + easy, for the simple reason that I was now independent of cookery books. I + had puzzled out all the elementary parts of the science for myself, and + had no misgivings on the subject of potatoes or even peas. So confident + was I, and vain, that I volunteered to make a curry for breakfast. Such a + savoury curry as it was, and it turned out to be all that the heart of a + hungry man could desire; so did the rice: I really felt proud of that + rice; each grain kept itself duly apart from its fellow, and was as soft + and white and plump as possible. Everything went well, and I had plenty of + assistants to carry in the substantial breakfast as fast as it was ready: + the coffee, toast, all the other things had gone in; even the curry had + been borne off amid many compliments, and now it only remained for me to + dish up the rice. + </p> + <p> + Imagine the scene. The bright pretty kitchen, with its large window + through which you could see the green hills around dotted with sheep; the + creek chattering along just outside, whilst close to the back door + loitered a crowd of fowls and ducks on the chance of fate sending them + something extra to eat. Beneath the large window, and just in front of it, + stood a large deal table, and it used to be my custom to transfer the + contents of the saucepans to the dishes at that convenient place. Well, I + emptied the rice into its dish, and gazed fondly at it for a moment: any + cook might have been proud of that beautiful heap of snow-white grains. I + had boiled a great quantity, more than necessary it seemed, for although + the dish was piled up almost as high as it would hold, some rice yet + remained in the saucepan. + </p> + <p> + Oh, that I had been content to leave it there! But no: with a certain + spasmodic frugality which has often been my bane, I shook the saucepan + vehemently, in order to dislodge some more of its contents into my already + full dish. As I did so, my treacherous wrist, strained by the weight of + the saucepan, gave way, and with the rapidity of a conjurer's trick I + found the great black saucepan seated,—yes, that is the only word + for it,—seated in the midst of my heap of rice, which was now + covered by fine black powder from its sooty outside. All the rice was + utterly and completely spoiled. I don't believe that five clean grains + were left in the dish There was nothing for it but to leave it to get cold + and then throw it all out for the fowls, who don't mind <i>riz au noir</i> + it seems. Although I feel more than half ashamed to confess it, I am by no + means sure I did not retire into the store-room and shed a tear over the + fate of that rice. Everybody else laughed, but I was dreadfully mortified + and vexed. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XIII: Amateur Servants. + </h2> + <p> + I flattered myself on a certain occasion that I had made some very artful + arrangements to provide the family with something to eat during the + servants' absence. I had been lamenting the week of experiments in food + which would be sure to ensue so soon as the dray should leave, in the + hearing of a gallant young ex-dragoon, who had come out to New Zealand to + try and see if one could gratify tastes, requiring, say a thousand a year + to provide for, on an income of 120 pounds. He was just finding out that + it was quite as difficult to manage this in the Southern as in the + Northern Hemisphere, but his hearty cheery manner, and enormous stock of + hope, kept him up for some time. + </p> + <p> + "I'll come and cook for you," he cried. "I can cook like a bird. But I + can't wash up. No, no: it burns too much. If you can get somebody to wash + up, I'll cook. And just look here: it would be very nice if we could have + some music after dinner. You've got a piano, haven't you? That's right. + Well, now, don't you ask that pretty Miss A——, who has just + come out from England, to come and stop with you, and then we could have + some music?" + </p> + <p> + "Where did you learn to cook?" I inquired, suspiciously; for F——had + also assured me <i>he</i> could cook, and this had upset my confidence. + </p> + <p> + "On the west coast; to be sure! Ask Vere, and Williams and Taylor, and + everybody, if they <i>ever</i> tasted such pies as I used to make them." + My countenance must have still looked rather doubtful, because I well + remember sundry verbal testimonials of capability being produced; and as I + was still very ignorant of the rudiments of the science of cookery, I + shrank from assuming the whole responsibility of the family meals. So the + household was arranged in this way:—Captain George, head cook; Mr. U——, + scullery-maid; Miss A——, housemaid; myself, + lady-superintendent; Mr. Forsyth (a young naval officer), butler. On the + principle of giving honour to whom honour is due, this gallant lieutenant + deserves special mention for the way he cleaned glass. He did not pay much + attention to his silver, but his glass would have passed muster at a club. + The only drawback was the immense time he took over each glass, and the + way he followed either Miss A—— or me all about the house, + holding a tumbler in one hand, and a long, clean glass-cloth in the other, + calling upon us to admire the polish of the crystal. To clean two tumblers + would be a good day's work for him. From Monday to Saturday (when the dray + returned), this state of things went on. Of course I had taken the + precaution of having a good supply of bread made beforehand, besides cakes + and biscuits, tarts and pies; everything to save trouble. But it was not + of much use, for, alleging that they were working so hard, the young men, + F—— at their head, though I was always telling him he was + married and ought to know better, set to work and ate up everything + immediately, as completely as if they had been locusts. And then, they + were all so dreadfully wild and unmanageable! Mine was by far the hardest + task of all, the keeping them in any sort of order. For instance, Captain + George declared one day, that if there was one thing he did better than + another, it was to make jam. Consequently a fatigue party was ordered out + to gather strawberries, and, after more than half had been eaten on the + way to the house, a stewpan was filled. I had to do most of the skimming, + as Captain George wanted to practice a duet with Miss A——. I + may as well mention here that we never had any opportunity of seeing how + the jam kept, because the smell pervaded the whole house to such an + extent, that, declaring they felt like schoolboys again, the gentlemen + fell on my half dozen pots of preserves in a body, carried them off, and + ate them all up then and there, announcing afterwards, there had just been + a pot a-piece. + </p> + <p> + It was really a dreadful time, although we got well cooked <i>plats</i>, + for Captain George wasted quite as much as he used. The pigs fed + sumptuously that week on his failures, in sauces, minces; puddings, and + what not. He had insisted on our making him a paper cap and a linen apron, + or rather a dozen linen aprons, for he was perpetually blackening his + apron and casting it aside. Then, he used suddenly to cease to take any + interest in his occupation, and, seating himself sideways on the kitchen + dresser, begin to whistle through a whole opera, or repeat pages of + poetry. I tried the experiment of banishing Miss A—— from the + kitchen during cooking hours, but a few bars played on the piano were + quite enough to distract my cook from his work. My only quiet time was the + afternoon, when about four o'clock, my amateur servants all went out for a + ride, and left me in peace for a couple of hours. I had enough to do + during that short time to tidy up; to collect the scattered books and + music, and prepare the tea-supper, for which they came back in tearing + spirits, and frantically hungry, between seven and eight o'clock. After + this meal had been cleared away, and Mr. U—— and I had washed + up (the others declaring they were too tired to stir), we all used to + adjourn to the verandah. It happened to be an exceptionally <i>still</i> + week, no dry, hot nor'-westers, nor cold, wet sou'-westers, and it was + perfectly delicious to sit out in the verandah and rest, after the labours + of the day, in our cane easy-chairs. The balmy air was so soft and fresh, + and the intense silence all around so profound. Unfortunately there was a + full moon. I say "unfortunately," because the flood of pale light + suggested to these dreadful young men the feasibility of having what they + called a "servant's ball." In vain I declared that the housekeeper was + never expected to dance. "Oh, yes!" laughed Captain George. "I've often + danced with a housekeeper, and very jolly it was too. Come along! F——, + <i>make</i> her dance." And I was forced to gallopade up and down that + verandah till I felt half dead with fatigue. The boards had a tremendous + spring, and the verandah (built by F——, by the way), was very + wide and roomy, so it made an excellent ball-room. As for the trifling + difficulty about music, that was supplied by Captain George and Mr. U—— + whistling in turn, time being kept by clapping the top and bottom of my + silver butter dish together, cymbal-wise. Oh, dear! It takes my breath + away now even to think of those evenings! I see Alice A—— + flitting about in her white dress and fern-leaf wreath, dancing like the + slender sylph she really was, but never can I forget the odd effect of the + gentlemen's feet! No one had their dress boots up at the station, and as + Alice and I firmly declined to dance with anybody who wore "Cookham" boots + (great heavy things with nails in the soles), they had no other course + open to them except to wear their smart slippers. There were slippers of + purple velvet, embroidered with gold; others of blue kid, delicately + traced in crimson lines; foxes heads stared at us in startling perspective + from a scarlet ground; or black jim-crow figures disported themselves on + orange tent-stitch. Then these slippers were all more or less of an easy + fit, and had a way of flying out on the lawn suddenly, startling my dear + dog Nettle out of his first sleep. + </p> + <p> + Ah, well! that may be an absurd bit of one's life to look back upon, but + its days were bright and innocent enough. Health was so perfect that the + mere sensation of being alive became happiness, and all the noise of the + eager, bustling, pushing world, seemed shut away by those steep hills + which folded our quiet valley in their green arms. People have often said + to me since, "Surely you would not like to have lived there for ever?" + Perhaps not. I can only say that three years of that calm, idyllic life, + held no weary hour for me, and I am quite sure that quiet time was a great + blessing to me in many ways. First of all, in health, for a person must be + in a very bad way indeed for New Zealand air not to do them a world of + good; next, in teaching me, amid a great deal of fun and laughter, sundry + useful accomplishments, not easily learned in our luxurious civilization; + and, lastly, those few years of seclusion from the turmoil of life brought + leisure to think out one's own thoughts, and to sift them from other + peoples' ideas. Under such circumstances, it is hard if "the unregarded + river of our life," as Matthew Arnold so finely call it be not perceived, + for one then + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "—— Becomes aware of his life's flow + And bears its winding murmur, and he sees + The meadows where it glides, the sun, the breeze; + And there arrives a lull in the hot race, + Wherein he doth for ever chase + That flying and elusive shadow, rest." +</pre> + <p> + One good effect of my sufferings with a house full of unruly volunteers, + was that during the brief stay (only two months), of my next cook, I set + to work assiduously to learn as many kitchen mysteries as she could teach + me, and so became independent of Captain George or F——, or any + other amateur, good, bad, or indifferent. + </p> + <p> + Nothing could be more extraordinary than the way in which the two + affectionate sisters, mentioned [earlier] and who succeeded Euphemia and + Lois, quarrelled. They were very unlike each other in appearance, and one + fruitful source of bickering arose from their respective styles of beauty. + Not only did they wrangle and rave at each other all the day long, during + every moment of their spare time, but after they had gone to bed, we could + hear them quite plainly calling out to each other from their different + rooms. If I begged them to be quiet, there might be silence for a moment, + but it would shortly be broken by Maria, calling out, "I say, Dinah, don't + you go for to wear green, my girl. I only tell you friendly, but you're a + deal too yellow for that. It suits <i>me</i>, 'cause I'm so fresh and + rosy, but you never <i>will</i> have my 'plexion, not if you live to be + eighty. Good night. I thought I'd just mention it while I remembered." + This used to aggravate Dinah dreadfully, and she would retaliate by + repeating some complimentary speech of Old Ben's, or Long Tom's, the + stockman, and then there would be no peace for an hour. + </p> + <p> + Their successors were Clarissa and Eunice. Eunice wept sore for a whole + month, over her sweeping and cleaning. To this day I have not the dimmest + idea <i>why</i>. She gave me warning, amid floods of tears, directly she + arrived, though I could not make out any other tangible complaint than + that "the dray had jolted as never was;" and to Clarissa, I gave warning + the first day I came into the kitchen. + </p> + <p> + She received me seated on the kitchen table, swinging her legs, which did + not nearly touch the floor. She had carefully arranged her position so as + to turn her back towards me, and she went on picking her teeth with a + hair-pin. I stood aghast at this specimen of colonial manners, which was + the more astonishing as I knew the girl had lived in the service of a + gentleman's family in the North of England for some time before she + sailed. + </p> + <p> + "Dear me, Clarissa," I cried, "is that the way you behaved at Colonel St. + John's?" + </p> + <p> + Clarissa looked at me very coolly over her shoulder (I must mention she + was a very pretty girl, blue-eyed and rosy-cheeked, but with <i>such</i> a + temper!) and, giving her plump shoulders a little shrug, said, "No, in + course not: <i>they</i> was gentlefolks, they was." + </p> + <p> + I confess I felt rather nettled at this, and yet it was difficult to be + angry with a girl who looked like a grown up and very pretty baby. I + restrained my feelings and said, "Well, I should like you to behave here + as you did there. Suppose you get off the table and come and look what we + can find in the store room." + </p> + <p> + "I <i>have</i> looked round," she declared: "there 'aint much to be seen." + My patience began to run short, and I said very firmly, "You must get off + the table directly, Clarissa, and stand and speak properly; or I shall + send you down to Christchurch again." I suppose that was exactly what the + damsel wished, for she made no movement; whereat I said in great wrath, + "Very well, then you shall leave at the end of a month." And so she did, + having bullied everybody out of their lives during that time. + </p> + <p> + Whilst we are on the subject of manners, it may not be out of place to + relate a little episode of my early days "up country." I think I have + alluded [in "Station Life in New Zealand"] to our book club; but I don't + know that it has been explained that I used to change the books on Sunday + afternoon, after our little evening service. It would have been impossible + to induce the men to come from an immense distance twice a week, and it + was therefore necessary that they should be able to get a fresh book after + service. Nothing could have been better than the behaviour of my little + congregation: they made it a point of giving no trouble whatever with + their horses or dogs, and they were so afraid of being supposed to come + for what they could get, that I had some difficulty in inducing those who + travelled from a distance to have a cup of tea in the kitchen before they + mounted, to set off on their long solitary ride homewards. They were also + exceedingly quiet and well-behaved; for if even a dozen men or more were + standing outside in fine weather, or waiting within the kitchen if it were + wet or windy, not a sound could be heard. If they spoke to each other, it + was in the lowest whisper, and they would no more have thought of lighting + their pipes anywhere near the house than they would of flying. + </p> + <p> + This innate tact and true gentlemanly feeling which struck me so much in + the labouring man as he appears in New Zealand, made the lapse of good + manners, to which I am coming, all the more remarkable. Of course they + never touched their hats to me: they would make me a bow or take their + hats <i>off</i>, but they never touched them. I have often seen a hand + raised involuntarily to the soft felt hat, which every one wears there, + but the mechanical action would be arrested by the recollection of the + first article of the old colonial creed, "Jack is as good as his master." + I never minded this in the least, and got so completely out of the habit + of expecting any salutations, that it seemed quite odd to me to receive + them again on my return. No, what I objected to was, that when I used to + go into my kitchen, about ten minutes or so after the service had been + concluded, with the list of club books in my hand, not a single man rose + from his seat. They seemed to make it a point to sit down somewhere; on a + table or window seat if all the chairs were occupied, but at all events + not to be found standing. They would bend their heads and blush, and + glance shyly at each other for encouragement as I came in, but no one got + up, or took his hat off. This went on for a few weeks, until I felt sure + that this curious behaviour did not spring from forgetfulness, or + inattention. When I mentioned my grievance in the drawing-room to the + gentlemen, I only got laughed at for my pains, and I was asked what else I + expected? To this question used to be added sundry anecdotes of earlier + colonial life, intended to reconcile me to the manners of these later + days. I remember particularly a legend of a man cook, who was said to have + walked into the sitting-room of the station where the master was + practising tunes on an accordion, and exclaimed, "Now, look here, boss, if + you don't leave off that there noise, which perwents me gettin' a wink o' + sleep, I'll clear out o' this, sharp, to-morrow mornin'. So now yer know," + and with that remark he returned to his bunk. + </p> + <p> + At last I was goaded to declare I felt sure that the men only behaved in + that way from crass ignorance, and that if they knew how much my feelings + were hurt, they would alter their manners directly. This opinion was + received with such incredulity that I felt roused to declare I should try + the experiment next Sunday afternoon. The only warning which at all + daunted me was the assurance that I should affront my congregation and + scare them away. It was the dread of this which made my heart beat so + fast, and my hands turn so cold as I opened the kitchen-door the next + Sunday afternoon. There were exactly the same attitudes, every body + perfectly civil and respectful, but every body seated. Luckily my courage + rose at the right moment, and I came forward as usual with a smile, and + said, "Look here, my men, there is one little thing I want to ask you. Do + you know that it is not the custom anywhere, in any civilized country, for + gentlemen to remain seated and covered when a lady comes into the room? If + I were to go into a room in England, where the Prince of Wales, or any of + the finest gentlemen of the land were sitting, just as you are now, they + would all get up, the Prince first, most likely, and they would certainly + take off their hats! Now why can't you all do the same, here?" + </p> + <p> + The effect of my little speech was magical. Pepper glanced at McQuhair, + Moffatt crimsoned and nudged McKenzie, Wiry Ben slipped off the + window-seat and shyed his hat across the kitchen, whilst Long Tom, the + bullock-driver, "thanked me kindly for mentioning of it;" and every body + got up directly and took their hats off. I felt immensely proud of my + success, and hastened the moment of my return to the drawing room, where I + announced my triumph. I repeated my little speech as concisely as + possible; but, alas, it was not nearly so well received as it had been in + the kitchen! "Have you ever gone to see a London club?" one person + inquired. "Ah: I thought not! I don't know about the Prince, because he + always <i>does</i> do the prettiest things at the right moment, but I + doubt very much about all the others. I fear you have made a very wild + assertion to get your own way." I need hardly say I sulked at that + incredulous individual for many days but he always stuck firmly to his own + opinion. However, my men never required another hint. They came just as + regularly as usual to church, and we all lived happily ever after. + </p> + <p> + I feel that my chapter should end here; but any record of my New Zealand + servants would be incomplete without mention of my "bearded cook." Every + body thinks, when I say this, that I am going to tell them about a man, + but it is nothing of the sort. Isabella Lyon, in spite of her pronounced + beard, was a very fine woman; exceedingly good-humoured looking and + fresh-coloured, with most amiable prepossessing manners. She had not long + arrived, and had been at once snapped up for an hotel, but she applied for + my place, saying she wished for quiet and a country life. Could any thing + be more propitious? I thought, like Lois, that my luck, so long in + turning, was improving, and that at last I was to have a cook who knew her + business. And so she did, thoroughly and delightfully. For one brief + fortnight we lived on dainties. Never could I have believed that such a + variety of dishes could have been produced out of mutton. In fact we + seemed to have everything at table except the staple dish. Unlike the cook + who actually sent me in a roast shoulder of mutton for breakfast one + morning, Isabella prided herself on eliminating the monotonous animal from + her bills of fare. Certainly she was rather heavy on the sauces, etc., and + I was trying to pluck up courage to remonstrate, as it would not be easy + or cheap to replace them before a certain time of year. And then she was + so clean, so smiling, and so good-tempered. She seemed to treat us all as + if we were a parcel of children for whom she was never weary of preparing + surprises. As for me, I felt miserable if any shepherd or well-to-do + handsome young bachelor cockatoo came near the place, dreading lest the + wretch should have designs on my cook's heart and hand. I rejoiced in her + beard, and would not have had her without it for worlds, as I selfishly + hoped it might stand in her matrimonial path. + </p> + <p> + This Arcadian state of kitchen affairs went on for exactly a fortnight. + One evening, at the end of that time, we had been out riding, and returned + as usual very hungry. "What are we going to have for supper?" inquired F——. + I told him what had been ordered; but when that meal made its appearance, + lo, there was not a single dish which I had named! The things were not + exactly nasty, but they were queer. For instance, pears are not usually + stewed in gravy; but they were by no means bad, and we took it for granted + it was something quite new. The housemaid, Sarah, looked very nervous and + scared, and glanced at me from time to time with a very wistful look; but + I was so delightfully tired and sleepy—one never seemed to get + beyond the pleasant stage of those sensations—that I did not ask any + questions. + </p> + <p> + Next morning, when we came out to breakfast, imagine my astonishment at + seeing a tureen of half cold soup on the table, and nothing else! I could + hardly believe my eyes, and hastened to the kitchen to explain that this + was rather too much of a novelty in the gastronomic line. If I live to be + a hundred years old, I shall never forget the sight—at once terrible + and absurd—which met my eyes. Before the kitchen fire stood + Isabella, having evidently slept in her clothes all night. She looked + wretched and bloated, and quite curiously dirty, as black as if she had + been up the chimney; and even I could see that, early as was the hour, she + was hopelessly drunk. Between both of her nerveless, black hands, she held + a poker, with which she struck, from time to time, a feeble blow on a + piled-up heap of plates, which she persisted in considering a lump of + coal. The fire was nearly out, but she hastened to assure me that if she + could only break this lump of coal it would soon burn up. Need I say that + I rescued my plates at once, and marched the bearded one off to her own + apartment. + </p> + <p> + Oh, how dimmed its dainty freshness had become since even yesterday! Sarah + was summoned, and confessed that she had known last night that "Hisabella" + had gone on the "burst," having bought, for some fabulous sum, a bottle of + rum from a passing swagger. It was all very dreadful, and worst of all was + the scene of tears and penitence I had to endure when the rum was + finished. The dray, however, relieved me of the incubus of her presence; + and that was the only instance of drunkenness I came across among my + domestic changes and chances. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XIV: Our pets. + </h2> + <p> + One of the first things which struck me when I came to know a little more + about the feelings and ways of my neighbours in the Malvern Hills, was the + good understanding which existed between man and beast. I am afraid I must + except the poor sheep, for I never heard them spoken of with affection, + nor do I consider that they were the objects of any special humanity even + on their owners' parts. This must surely arise from their enormous + numbers. "How can you be fond of thousands of anything?" said a shepherd + once to me, in answer to some sentimental inquiry of mine respecting his + feelings towards his flock. That is the fact. There were too many sheep in + our "happy Arcadia" for any body to value or pet them. On a large scale + they were looked after carefully. Water, and sheltered feed, and + undisturbed camping grounds, all these good things were provided for them, + and in return they were expected to yield a large percentage of lambs and + a good "clip." Even the touching patience of the poor animals beneath the + shears, or amid the dust and noise of the yards, was generally despised as + stupidity. + </p> + <p> + Far different is the feeling of the New Zealander, whether he be squatter + or cockatoo, towards his horse and his dog. They are the faithful friends, + and often the only companions of the lonely man. Of course there will soon + be no "lonely men" anywhere, but a few years ago there were plenty of + unwilling Robinson Crusoes in the Middle Island; and whenever I came upon + one of these pastoral hermits, I was sure to find a dog or a horse, a cat, + or even a hen, established as "mate" to some poor solitary, from whom all + human companionship was shut out by mountain, rock, or river. + </p> + <p> + "Are you not <i>very</i> lonely here?" was often my first instinctive + question, as I have dismounted at the door of a shepherd's hut in the back + country, and listened to the eternal roar of the river which formed his + boundary, or the still more oppressive silence which seemed to have + reigned ever since the creation. + </p> + <p> + "Well, mum, it aint very lively; but I've got Topsy (producing a black + kitten from his pocket), and there's the dogs, and I shall have some fowls + next year, p'raps." + </p> + <p> + But my object in beginning this chapter was not to enter into a + disquisition on other people's pets, with which after all one can have but + a distant acquaintance, but to introduce some of my own especial + favourites to those kind and sympathetic readers who take pleasure in + hearing of my own somewhat solitary existence in that distant land. I am + quite ready to acknowledge that I never thoroughly comprehended the + individuality of animals, even of fowls and ducks, until I lived up at the + Station. Perhaps, like their masters, they really get to possess more + independence of character under those free and easy skies; for where would + you meet with such a worldly and selfish cat as "Sandy," or so fastidious + and intelligent a smooth terrier as "Rose"? Sandy was an old bachelor of a + sleek appearance, red in colour, but with a good deal of white shirt-front + and wristbands, as to the get-up of which he was most particular. It was + easy to imagine Sandy sitting in a club window; and I am <i>sure</i> he + had a slight tendency to gout and reading French novels. Sandy's + selfishness was quite open and above-board. He liked you very much until + somebody else came whom he liked better, and then he would desert his + oldest friend without hesitation. I don't suppose the wildest young + colley-pup ever dreamed of chasing or worrying Sandy, who would not have + stirred from his warm corner by the fire for Snarleyow himself. Every now + and then Sandy must have felt alarmed about his health or his figure, for + he ate less, and walked gravely and sulkily up and down the verandah for + hours, but as soon as he considered himself out of danger, he relapsed + into all his self-indulgent ways. No one ventured to offer Sandy anything + but the choicest meats, and he was wont to sit up and beg like a dog for a + savoury tit-bit. But he would revenge himself on you afterwards for the + humiliation, you might be sure. + </p> + <p> + What always appeared to me so odd, was that in spite of his known and + unblushing selfishness, Sandy used to be a great favourite, and we all + vied with each other for the honour of his notice. Now why was this? If + boundless time and space were at our disposal, we might go deeply into the + question and work it out, but as the dimensions of this volume are not + elastic, the impending social essay shall be postponed, and we will + confine ourselves to a brief description of Sandy's outer cat. He was of a + pure breed, far removed from the long-legged, lanky race of ordinary + station-cats, who from time to time disappeared into the bush and + contracted alliances with the still more degraded specimens of their class + who had long been wild among the scrub. No: Sandy came of "pur sang," and + held his small square head erect, with a haughty carriage as beseemed his + ancestry. His fur was really beautiful, a sort of tortoiseshell red, the + lighter stripes repeating exactly the different golden tints of a + fashionable chignon. In early youth, though it is difficult to imagine + Sandy ever a playful kitten, his tail had been curtailed to the length of + three inches, and this short, flexible stump gave an air of great decision + to Sandy's movements. But his chief peculiarity, and I must add, + attraction, in my opinion, was the perfume of his sleek coat. When Sandy + condescended to take his evening doze on my linsey lap, I never smelt + anything so strange and so agreeable as the odour of his fur, specially + that on the top of his head. It was like the most delicate musk, but + without any of the sickly smell common to that scent. I believe Sandy knew + of this personal peculiarity, and felt proud of it. + </p> + <p> + A far more unselfish and agreeable personage was Rose, the white terrier, + whose name often finds a loving place in these pages. She and Sandy dwelt + together in peace and amity, although the little doggie never could have + felt any affection for her selfish companion. Rose's nerves were of a + delicate and high-strung order, and there was nothing she hated so much as + uproarious noise. Every now and then it chanced that during a few days of + wet or windy weather, our little house had been filled by passing guests: + gentlemen who had called in to ask for supper and a bed, intending to go + on next day. In a country where inns or accommodation-houses are fifty + miles apart, this is a common incident, and it sometimes happens that the + resources of station hospitality are taxed to the utmost in this way. I + have known our own little wooden box to be so closely packed, that besides + a guest on each sofa in the drawing-room, there would be another on a sort + of portable couch in the dining-room. This was after the spare room had + been filled to the utmost. A delicate "new chum," who required to be + pampered, had retired to rest on the hard kitchen sofa described + elsewhere; whilst a couple of sturdy travellers were sleeping soundly in + the saddle room. After that, there could be nothing for the last comer + except a shake-down in red blankets. + </p> + <p> + It <i>always</i> happened I observed that everybody arrived together. For + weeks we would be alone. I lived once for eight months without seeing a + lady; and then, some fine evening, half a dozen acquaintances would "turn + up,"—there really is no other word for it. Well, on these occasions, + when, instead of departing next morning, our impromptu guests have + sometimes been forced to wait until such time as the rain or the wind + should cease; their pent-up animal spirits became often too much for them, + and they would feel an irresistible impulse to get rid of some of their + superfluous health and strength by violent exercise. I set my face at once + against "athletic sports" or "feats of strength" being performed in my + little drawing-room, although they were always very anxious to secure me + for the solitary spectator; and I forget who hit upon the happy thought of + turning the empty wool-shed into a temporary gymnasium. There these wild + boys—for, in spite of stalwart frames and bushy beards, the Southern + Colonist's heart keeps very fresh and young—used to adjourn, and hop + and leap, wrestle and box, fence and spar, to their active young limbs' + content. They seemed very happy, and loud were the joyous shouts and peals + of laughter over the failures; but after seeing the performance once or + twice, I generally became tired and bored, and used to slip away to the + house and my quiet corner by the fire. Rose considered it her duty to + remain at her master's heels as long as possible, but after a time she too + would creep back to silence and warmth, though she never deserted her post + until the noise grew altogether too much for her nerves; and then, with a + despairing whimper, sometimes swelling to a howl, poor little Rose would + tuck her tail between her legs, and dash out, through the storm, to seek + shelter and quiet with me. + </p> + <p> + Whenever Rose appeared thus suddenly in my quiet retreat, I felt sure some + greater uproar than usual was going on down at the wool-shed, and, more + than once, on inquiry, I found Rose's nerves must have been tried to the + utmost before she turned and fled. + </p> + <p> + As for the intelligence of sheep-dogs, a volume could be written on the + facts concerning them, and a still more entertaining book on the fictions, + for a New Zealand shepherd will always consider it a point of honour to + cap his neighbour's anecdote of <i>his</i> dog's sagacity, by a yet + stronger proof of canine intelligence. I shall only, briefly allude to one + dog, whose history will probably be placed in the colonial archives,—a + colley, who knows his master's brand; and who will, when the sheep get + boxed, that is mixed together, pick out; with unfailing accuracy, all the + bleating members of his own flock from amid the confused, terrified mass. + As for the patience of a good dog in crossing sheep over a river, I have + witnessed that myself, and been forced to draw conclusions very much in + favour of the dog over the human beings who were directing the operation. + Some dogs again, who are perfectly helpless with sheep, are unrivalled + with cattle, and I have stood on the edge of a swamp more than once, and + seen a dog go after a couple of milch cows, and fetch them out of a herd + of bullocks, returning for the second "milky mother" after the first had + been brought right up within reach of the stockman's lash. + </p> + <p> + Then among my horse friends was a certain Suffolk "Punch," who had been + christened the "Artful Dodger," from his trick of counterfeiting lameness + the moment he was put in the shafts of a dray. That is to say if the dray + was loaded; so long as it was empty, or the load was light, the "Dodger" + stepped out gaily, but if he found the dray at all heavy, he affected to + fall dead lame. The old strain of staunch blood was too strong in his + veins to allow him to refuse or jib, or stand still. Oh, no! The "Dodger" + arranged a compromise with his conscience, and though he pulled manfully, + he resorted to this lazy subterfuge. More than once with a "new chum" it + had succeeded to perfection, and the "Dodger" found himself back again in + his stable with a rack of hay before him, whilst his deluded owner or + driver was running all over the place to find a substitute in the shafts. + If I had not seen it myself, I could not have believed it. In order to + induce the "Dodger" to act his part thoroughly, a drayman was appointed + whom the horse had never seen, and therefore imagined could be easily + imposed upon. The moment the signal was given to start, the "Dodger," + after a glance round, which plainly said, "I wonder if I may try it upon + you," took a step forward and almost fell down, so desperate was his + lameness. The driver, who was well instructed in his part, ran round, and + lifted up one sturdy bay leg after the other, with every appearance of the + deepest concern. This encouraged the "Dodger," who uttered a groan, but + still seemed determined to do his best, and limped and stumbled a yard or + two further on. I confess it seemed impossible to believe the horse to be + quite sound, and if it had depended on me, the "Dodger" would instantly + have been unharnessed and put back in his stable. But the moment had come + to unmask him. His master stepped forward, and pulling first one cunning + ear, on the alert for every word, and then the other; cried, "It wont do, + sir! step out directly, and don't let us have any nonsense." The "Dodger" + groaned again, this time from his heart probably, shook himself, and, + leaning well forward in his big collar, stepped out without a murmur. The + lameness had disappeared by magic, nor was there even the slightest return + of it until he saw a new driver, and considered it safe to try his + oft-successful "dodge" once more. + </p> + <p> + Very different was "Star," poor, wilful, beauty, whose name and fate will + long be remembered among the green hills, where her short life was passed. + Born and bred on the station, she was the pride and joy of her owner's + heart. Slender without being weedy, compact without clumsiness, her small + head well set on her graceful neck, and her fine legs, with their sinews + like steel, she attracted the envy of all the neighbouring squatters. + "What will you take for that little grey filly when she is broken?" was a + constant question. "She's not for sale," her owner used to answer. "I'll + break her myself, and make her as gentle as a dog, and she'll do for my + wife when I get one." But this proved a castle in the air, so far as Star + was concerned. The wife was not so mythical. In due time <i>she</i> + appeared in that sheltered valley, and, standing at the head of a mound + marked by a stake whereon a star was rudely carved, heard the story of the + poor creature's fate. From the first week of her life, Star (so-called + from a black, five-pointed mark on her forehead), showed signs of + possessing a strange wild nature. Unlike her sire or dam, she evidently + had a violent temper,—and not to put too fine a point on it,—was + as vicious a grey mare as ever flung up her heels in a New Zealand valley. + </p> + <p> + When her second birthday was passed, Star's education commenced. The + process called "gentling," was a complete misnomer for the series of buck + jumps, of bites and kicks, with which the young lady received the + slightest attempt to touch her. She had a horrible habit also of + shrieking, really almost like a human being in a frantic rage; she would + rush at you with a wild scream of fury, and after striking at you with her + front hoofs, would wheel round like lightning, and dash her hind legs in + your face. The stoutest stockman declined to have anything whatever to do + with Star; the most experienced breaker "declined her, with thanks;" + generally adding a long bill for repairs of rack and manger, and breaking + tackle, and not unfrequently a hospital report of maimed and wounded + stablemen. Amateur horsemen of celebrity arrived at the station to look at + the beautiful fiend, and departed, saying they would rather not have + anything to say to her. At last, she was given over in despair, to lead + her own free life, never having endured the indignity of bit or bridle for + more than two minutes. + </p> + <p> + Months passed away, and Star and her tantrums had been nearly forgotten, + when one mild winter evening the stockman came in to report that,—wonder + of wonders,—Star was standing meekly outside, whinnying, and as + "quiet as a dog." Her master went out to find the man's report exact: Star + walked straight up to him, and rubbed her soft nose confidingly against + his sleeve. The mystery explained itself at a glance: she was on the point + of having her first foal, and, with some strange and pathetic instinct, + she bethought herself of the kind hands whose caresses she had so often + rejected, and came straight to them for help and succour. Her shy and + touching advances were warmly responded to, and in a few minutes the poor + beast was safely housed in the warm shed which then represented the + present row of neat stables long since on that very spot. A warm mash was + eagerly swallowed, and the good-hearted stockman volunteered to remain up + until all should be happily over; but his courage failed him at the sight + of her horrible sufferings, and in the early dawn he came to rouse up his + master, and beg him to come and see if anything more could be done. There + lay Star, all her fierce spirit quenched, with an appealing look in her + large black eyes, which seemed positively human in their capacity for + expressing suffering. It was many hours before a dead foal was born, and + there is no doubt that if she had been out on the bleak hills, the poor + exhausted young mother must have perished from weakness. She appeared to + understand thoroughly the motive of all that was being done for her, and + submitted with patience to all the remedies. Gradually, but slowly, her + strength returned; and, alas, her evil nature, tamed by anguish, returned + also! Day by day she became shyer of even the hand which had fed and + succoured her; and, as this is a true chronicle, it must be stated that + the very first use Mrs. Star made of her convalescence was, to kick her + nurse on the leg, break her halter into fragments, and gallop off to the + hills with a loud neigh of defiance. Whenever the topic of feminine + ingratitude came on the carpet at that station, this, which Star had done, + used always to be told as an instance in point. + </p> + <p> + Two years later, exactly the same thing happened again. The dreaded hour + of suffering found the wayward beauty once more under the roof which had + sheltered her in her former time of trial, and once more she rested her + head in penitence and appeal against her owner's shoulder. Who could bear + malice in the presence of such dreadful pain? Not Star's owner, certainly. + Besides the home resources, a man on horseback was sent off to fetch a + famous veterinary who chanced to be staying at a neighbouring station, and + they both returned before Star's worst sufferings began. All that skill + and experience could do was done that night; but the morning light found + the poor little grey mare dying from exhaustion, with another dead foal + lying by her side. She only lived a few hours later, in spite of + stimulants and the utmost care, and died gently and peacefully, with those + human hands whose lightest touch she had so flouted, ministering tenderly + to her great needs. The stockman had become so fond of the wayward beauty, + in spite of her ingratitude, that the only solace he could find for his + regret at her early death, lay in digging a deep grave for her, and + carving the emblem of her pretty name on the rude stake which still marks + the spot. + </p> + <p> + No account of station pets would be complete without a brief allusion to + my numerous and unsuccessful attempts to rear merino lambs in the house. + It never was of any use advising me to leave the poor little creatures out + on the bleak hill-side, if, in the course of my rambles after ferns or + creepers, I came upon a dead ewe with her half-starved baby running round + and round her. How could I turn my back on the little orphan, who, instead + of bounding off up the steep hill, used to run confidingly up to me, and + poke its black muzzle into my hand, as if it would say, "Here is a friend + at last"? And then merino lambs are so much prettier than any I have seen + in England. Their snow-white wool is as tightly screwed up in small curls + as any Astracan fleece, and from being of so much more active a race, they + are smaller and more compact than English lambs, and not so awkward and + leggy. A merino lamb of a couple of hours old is far better fitted to take + care of itself up a mountain than a civilized and helpless lamb of a month + old, besides these latter being so weak about the knees always. I only + mention this, not out of any desire to "blow" about our sheep, but because + I want to account for my tender-heartedness on the subject of desolate + orphans. The ewes scarcely ever died of disease, unless by a rare chance + it happened to be a very old lady whose constitution gave way at last + before a severe winter. We oftenest found that the dead mother was a fine + fat young ewe; who had slipped up on a hill-side and could not recover + herself, but had died of exhaustion and fatigue from her violent efforts + to kick herself up again. If we chanced to be in time to rescue her by the + simple process of setting her on her legs again, it would be all right, + but sometimes the poor creature had been cold and stiff for hours before + we found her, and her lamb had bleated itself hoarse and hungry, and was + as tame as a pet dog. Now <i>who</i> could turn away from a little + helpless thing like that, who positively leaped into your arms and cuddled + itself up in delight, sucking vigorously away at your glove, or anything + handy? Not I, for one,—though I might as well have left it alone, so + far as its ultimate fate was concerned; but I always hoped for better luck + next time, and carried it off in my arms. + </p> + <p> + The first thing to be do be on arrival at home, was to give the starving + little creature a good meal out of a tea-pot, and the next, to put it to + sleep in a box of hay in a warm corner of the kitchen. What always seemed + to me so extraordinary, was that the lambs, one and all, preserved the + most cheerful demeanour, ate and drank and slept well,—and yet died + within a month. Some lingered until quite four weeks had passed, others + succumbed to my treatment in a week. I varied their food, mixing oatmeal + with the milk; some I fed often, others seldom; to some I gave sugar in + the milk, others had new milk. There was abundance of grass just outside + the house for them to eat, if they could. Some did mumble feebly at it, I + remember, but the mortality continued uninterrupted. It must have been + very ridiculous to a visitor, to see my dear little snowy pets going down + on their front knees before me, and wagging their long tails furiously the + moment the tea-pot was brought out. They were far too sensible to do this + if my hands were empty. Gentle, affectionate little creatures, they used + to be wonderfully well-behaved, though now and then they would wander + through the verandah, and so into my bedroom, where the drapery of my + dressing-table afforded them endless amusement and occupation. They gnawed + and sucked all my "daisy" fringe, until the first thing that had to be + done when a lamb arrived at the house, was to take off muslins and fringes + from that, the only trimmed table in the house. + </p> + <p> + Often and often, of a cold night (for we must remember that New Zealand + lambing used always to come off in winter), we would all become suddenly + aware of a strong smell of burning pervading the whole house; which, on + being traced to its source, was often found to proceed from the rosette of + wool on the forehead of a chilly lamb. The creature drew nearer and nearer + to the genial warmth of the kitchen fire, until at last it used to lean + its brow pensively against the red hot bars. Hence arose the powerful + odour gradually filling the whole of the little wooden house. Of course I + used to rush to the rescue, and draw my bewildered pet away from the fatal + warmth, but not until it had usually singed the wool off down to the bone, + and there was often a bad burn on its forehead as well. But still, in + spite of stupidity and an insatiable appetite, I always grieved very + sincerely for each of my orphan lambs as it in turn sank into its early + grave. I used to be well laughed at for attaching any sentiment to an + animal which had sunk so disgracefully low in the money-market as a New + Zealand lamb, but the abundant supply of my little pets never made it + easier for me to lose the particular one which I had set my heart on + rearing. It certainly did afford me some comfort to hear that merino lambs + had always been difficult, if not impossible to bring up, like so many + "pups," by hand; and among all the statistics I carefully collected, I + could only find one well-authenticated instance of a foundling having been + reared indoors. My informant tried to comfort me by tales of the tyranny + that stout and tame sheep exercised over the household which had sheltered + it, but I fear that the stories of its delightful impudence only made me + more anxious to succeed in my own baby-farming experiments among the + lambs. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0015" id="link2HCH0015"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XV: A feathered pet. + </h2> + <p> + No record of those dear, distant days would be complete without a short + memoir of "Kitty." She was only a grey Dorking hen, but no heroine in fact + or fiction, no Lady Rachel Russell or <i>Fleurange,</i> ever exceeded + Kitty in unswerving devotion to a beloved object, or rather objects. + </p> + <p> + To see Kitty was to admire her, at least as I saw her one beautiful spring + evening in a grassy paddock on the banks of the Horarata. We had ridden + over there to visit our kind and friendly neighbours, the C——'s; + we had enjoyed a delicious cup of tea in the passion-flower-covered + verandah, which looked on the whole range, from East to West, of the + glorious Southern Alps, their shining white summits sharply cut against + our own peculiarly beautiful sky; we had strolled round the charming, + unformal garden, on either sloping side of a wide creek, and had admired, + with just a tinge of envy, the fruits and flowers, the standard apple and + rose trees, the tangle of fern and creepers, the wealth of the old and new + worlds heaped together in floral profusion; we had done all this, I say, + and very pleasant we had found it. Now we were trying to say goodbye: not + so easy a task, let me tell you, when there are so many temptations to + linger, and when you are greatly pressed to stay. The last device of our + hospitable hostess to keep us consisted in offering to show me her + poultry-yard. Now I was a young beginner in that line myself, and + tormented my ducks and fowls to death by my incessant care: at least that + is the conclusion I have arrived at since; but at that time, I considered + it as necessary to look after them as if they had been so many children. + The consequence was,—as I pathetically complained to Mrs. C——, + that my hens sat furiously for a week, and then took to lingering outside, + where perpetual feeding was going on, until their eggs grew cold; that my + ducks neglected their offspring and allowed the rats to decimate them, and + that every variety of epidemic and misfortune assailed in turns my unhappy + poultry yard. Kind Mrs. C—— listened as gravely as she could, + hinting <i>very</i> gently, that perhaps I took too much trouble about + them; then, fearing least she might have wounded my feelings, she hastened + to suggest that I should try the introduction of a different breed. + </p> + <p> + As a preliminary step to this reformation, she offered to bestow upon me + one of her best Dorking hens. It was too tempting an offer to be refused, + and I forthwith bestowed my affections on a beautiful grey pullet, whose + dignified carriage and speckled exterior bespoke her high lineage. "That's + Kitty," said Mrs. C——. "I am so glad you fancy her; she is one + of my nicest young hens. We'll catch her for you in a moment." I must + pause to mention here, that it struck me as being very odd in New Zealand + the way in which <i>every</i> creature has a name, excepting always the + poor sheep. If one sees a cock strutting proudly outside a shepherd's + door; you are sure to hear it is either Nelson or Wellington; every hen + has a pet name, and answers to it; so have the ducks and geese,—at + least, up-country; of course, dogs, horses, cows and bullocks, each + rejoice in the most inflated appellations, but I don't remember ever + hearing ducks and fowls answer to their names in any other country. + </p> + <p> + But this is only by the way. I gratefully and gladly accepted the transfer + of the fair Kitty, and only wondered how I was to convey her to her new + home, fifteen miles away. Kitty was soon caught, and carried off into the + house to be packed up for her first ride. Accustomed as I am to ridiculous + things happening to me, still I never felt in so absurd a position as + when, having mounted "Helen," who seemed in a particularly playful mood + after a good feed of oats, Kitty was handed to me neatly tied up in a + pillow-case with her tufted head protruding from a hole in the seam at the + side. Although very anxious to carry her home immediately, my heart died + within me at the prospect of a long gallop on a skittish mare with a plump + Dorking hen tied up in a bag on my lap. + </p> + <p> + There was no help for it, however, and I tried to put my bravest face on + the matter. The difficulties commenced at the very point of departure, for + it is not easy to say farewell cordially with your hands full of reins, + whip, and poultry. But it proved comparatively easy going whilst we only + cantered over the plains. It was not until the first creek had been + reached, that I really perceived what lay before me. Helen distrusted the + contents of the bag, and kept trying to look round and see what it + contained; and her fears of something uncanny might well have been + confirmed when she took off at her first flat jump. Kitty screamed, or + shrieked, or whatever name best expresses her discordant and piercing + yells. I more than suspect I shrieked too, partly at the difficulty of + keeping both Kitty and Helen in any sort of order, and partly at my own + insecurity. No sooner had Helen landed on the other side, than she fled + homewards as if a tin kettle were tied to her tail. The speed at which we + dashed through the fragrant summer air completely took away Kitty's + breath, and the poor creature appeared more dead than alive by the time I + dismounted, trembling myself in every limb for her safety as well as my + own, at the garden gate. + </p> + <p> + However, next morning brought a renewed delight in existence to both Kitty + and me, and our night's sleep had made us forget our agitation and peril. + After breakfast I introduced her to the poultry yard, and she adapted + herself to her new home with a tact and good humour most edifying to + behold. Months passed away. Kitty had made herself a nest in a place, the + selection of which did equal honour to her head and heart, and she + gladdened my eyes one fine morning by appearing with a lovely brood of + chicks around her. Who so proud as the young mother? She exhibited them to + me, and after I had duly admired them, used to carry them off to a nursery + of her own, which she had established among the tussocks just outside the + stable door. Mrs. C—— had impressed upon me that Kitty could + be safely trusted to manage her own affairs. No fear of her dragging her + fluffy babies out among the wet grass too early in the morning, or losing + them among the flax bushes on the hill-side. No: Kitty came of a race who + were model mothers, and was to be left to take care of herself and her + chickens. + </p> + <p> + About a week after Kitty had first shown me her large, small family, a + friend of ours arrived unexpectedly to stop the night. Next morning, when + he was going away, he apologised for asking leave to mount at the stables, + saying his led horse was so vicious, and the one he was riding so gay, + that it was quite possible their legs might find themselves within the + verandah, or do some mischief to the young shrubs which were the pride and + joy of my heart. This gentleman rode beautifully, and I used to like to + see the courage and patience with which he always conquered the most + unruly horse. + </p> + <p> + "We will come up to the stable and see you mount," I cried, seizing my + hat. Of course every one followed my lead, and it was to the sound of + mingled jeers and compliments that poor Mr. T—— mounted his + fiery steed, and seized hold of the leading rein of his pack-horse. But + this animal had no intention of taking his departure with propriety or + tranquillity: he pranced and shied, flinging out his heels as he wildly + danced round to every point of the compass, in a circle. Gradually he drew + Mr. T—— and his chestnut a dozen yards away from the stable, + and it was just then that I perceived poor Kitty sitting close under a + tussock. It chanced to be the hour for the chickens' siesta, and they were + all folded away beneath her ample brooding wings. Perhaps the danger had + come too near to be avoided before I perceived it, but at all events my + loud shriek of warning was too late to save the pretty crouching head from + the flourish of the pack-horse's glancing heels. Swift indeed was the + blow; for scarcely ten seconds could have passed between my first glimpse + of poor Kitty's bright black eye looking out, with such mortal terror in + its expression, from beneath the yellow tuft of grass, and my seeing the + horse's heel lay her head right open. The brave little mother never + dreamed of saving herself at the cost of her nestlings. She crouched as + low as possible, and when the horse had jumped over her I flew to see if + she had escaped. No. There lay my pretty pet, with her wings still + outspread and her chickens unhurt. But she seemed dead: her head had been + actually cut clean open, and I never expected that she would have lived a + moment. Yet she did. I took her at once to the well hard by, and bound up + her split head with my pocket handkerchief, keeping it well wetted with + cold water. Later on I put forth all the surgical art I possessed, and + dressed the wound in the most scientific manner, nursing poor Kitty + tenderly in the kitchen, and feeding her with my own hands every two + hours. She was for a long time incapable of feeding herself and; even when + all danger was over, required most careful nursing. However, the end of + the story is that, she recovered entirely her bodily health, but her poor + little brain remained clouded for ever. She never took any more notice of + her chickens, who had to be brought up by hand, and she never mixed again + with the society of the poultry-yard. At night she roosted apart in the + coalshed, and she never seemed to hear my voice or distinguish me from + others, though she was perfectly tame to everybody. Kitty's end was very + tragical. She grew exceedingly fat, and at last, one time when we were all + snowed up and could not afford to be sentimental, my cook laid hold of + poor Kitty, who was moping in her usual corner, and converted her into a + savoury stew without telling me, until I had actually dined off her. I was + very angry; but Eliza only repeated by way of consolation, "She had no + wits, only flesh, consequently she was better in my stew-pot nor anywhere + else, mum, if you'll only look at it calm like." But it was very hard to + be made to eat one's patient, especially when I was so proud of the way + her poor head had healed. + </p> + <p> + If anybody wanted to teaze me, they suggested that I had omitted to + replace my dear Kitty's brains before closing that cruel wound in her + skull. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0016" id="link2HCH0016"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XVI: Doctoring without a diploma. + </h2> + <p> + So many reminiscences come crowding into my mind,—some grave and + others gay,—as I sit down to write these final chapters, that I + hardly know where to begin. + </p> + <p> + The most clamorous of the fast-thronging memories, the one which pushes + its way most vividly to the front, is of a little amateur doctoring of + mine; and as my patient luckily did not die of my remedies, I need not + fear that I shall be asked for my diploma. + </p> + <p> + Shearing was just over; over only that very evening in fact. We had been + leading a sort of uncomfortable picnic life at the home station for more + than ten days, and had returned to our own pretty little home up the + valley, late on Saturday night, in time for the supper-dinner I have so + often described. It was my doing, that fortnight's picnic at the home + station, and I may as well candidly confess it was a mistake; although, + made, like most mistakes in life, with good intentions. Our partner had + gone to England, our manager had just left us to set up sheep-farming on + his own account, and all the responsibility of shearing a good many + thousand sheep devolved on F——. And not only the shearing; the + flock had to be carefully draughted, the ewes, wethers, and hoggets, to be + branded, ear-marked, and turned out on their several ranges; the wethers + for home consumption, which consisted of a good-sized flock of many + hundred sheep, turned into the home-paddock,—an enclosure of some + five or six hundred acres,—and various other minute details to be + seen to; the wool to be sent down to Christchurch, and the stores brought + up by the return drays. + </p> + <p> + My motives for the plan I formed for us to go over, bag and baggage, to + the home station, the evening before the shearing began, and live there + till it was over, were varied. We will put the most unselfish first, for + the sake of appearances. I knew it would be very hard work for poor F—— + all that time, and I thought it would add to his fatigue if he had to go + backwards and forwards to his own house every day, getting up at five in + the morning and returning late at night, besides having no comfortable + meals. The next motive was that I wanted very much to see the whole + process of shearing, and all the rest of it, myself; and as it turned out, + though I little dreamed of it at the time, this proved to be my only + chance. Every body tried to dissuade me from carrying out the scheme, by + urging that I should be very uncomfortable; but I did not care in the + least for that, and insisted on being allowed at all events to see how I + liked it. + </p> + <p> + Accordingly one evening we set forth: such a ridiculous cavalcade. I would + not hear of riding, for it was only a short two miles walk; and as we did + not start until after our last meal, the sun had dipped behind Flag-pole's + tall peak, and nearly the whole of our happy valley lay in deep, cool + shadow. Besides which, it looked more like the real thing to walk, and + that was half the battle with me. The "real thing" in this case, though I + did not stop to explain it to myself, must have meant emigrants, Mormons, + soldiers on the march, what you will; any thing which expresses all one's + belongings being packed into a little cart, with a huge tin bath secured + on the top of all. Such a miscellaneous assortment of dry goods as that + cart held! A couple of mattresses (for my courage failed me at the idea of + sleeping on chopped tussocks for a fortnight), a couple of folding-up + arm-chairs, though, as it turned out, one would have been enough, for poor + F—— never sat down from the time he got up until he went to + bed again; a large hamper of provisions, some books, our clothes, and + various little matters which were indispensable if one had to live in an + empty house for a fortnight. I had sent my two maids over one morning a + few days before, with pails and mops and brushes, and they had given the + couple of rooms which we were to inhabit, a thorough good cleaning and + scouring, so my mind was easy on that point. It would not have answered, + for many reasons, to have encumbered ourselves with these damsels during + our stay at the home station. In the first place, there was really no + accommodation for them; in the next, it would have entailed more luggage + than the little cart could hold; and, finally, we should have been obliged + to leave them behind at the last moment: for only the evening before we + started, a couple of friends arrived, in true New Zealand fashion, from + Christchurch, to pay us a month's visit. It was too late to alter our + plans then, so we told them to, make themselves thoroughly at home, and + took our departure next day in the way I have alluded to. + </p> + <p> + We had plenty of escort as far as the first swamp. When that treacherous + and well-known spot had been reached, everybody suddenly remembered that + they had forgotten something or the other which obliged them to return + directly, so our farewells had to be exchanged from the centre of a flax + bush. The cart meanwhile was nearly out of sight, so wide a <i>detour</i> + had its driver been forced to make in order to find a place sound enough + to bear its weight. But we caught it up again after we had happily crossed + the quagmire which used always to be my bug-bear, and in due time we made + our appearance, in the gloaming, at the tiny house belonging to the home + station. Early as was the hour, not later than half-past eight, the place + lay silent and still under the balmy summer haze. All the shearers were + fast asleep in the men's hut, whilst every available nook and corner was + filled with the spare hands; the musterers, branders, yard-keepers, and + many others, whose duties were less-defined. Far down the flat we could + dimly discern a white patch,—the fleecy outlines of the large mob + destined to fill the skillions at day-break to-morrow morning; and, + although we could not see them distinctly, close by, watchful and vigilant + all through that and many subsequent summer nights, Pepper and his two + beautiful colleys kept watch and ward over the sheep. + </p> + <p> + Writing in the heavy atmosphere of this vast London world, I look back + upon that, and such evenings as that, with a desperate craving to breathe + once more he delicious air unsoiled by human lungs, and stirred into fresh + fragrance by every summer sigh of those distant New Zealand valleys. No + wonder people were always well in such a pure, clear, light atmosphere. I + try to feel again in fancy the exquisite enjoyment of merely drawing a + deep breath, the thrilling sensation of health and strength it sent + tingling down to your finger ends. No fleck or film of vapour or miasma + could be seen or smelt, though the day had been burning hot, and, as I + have said, there were plenty of creeks and swamps hard by. Damp is unknown + in those valleys, and we might have lingered bareheaded even after the + heavy dew began to fall, without risk of cold, or fever, or any other + ailment. But we could not afford to linger a moment out of doors that + lovely tempting evening. F—— and the driver of the cart, who + had some important part to take in the morrow's proceedings (I forget + exactly what), soon tossed out my little stores, which looked very + insignificant as they lay in a heap in the verandah, and departed to see + that all was in train for next day's work. I had no time to enjoy the + evening's soft beauty: the beds had to be made; clothes to be unpacked and + hung up; stores must be arranged on the shelves in the sitting-room,—for + the house only consisted of two small rooms in front, with a wide + verandah, and a sort of lean-to at the back, which was divided into a + small kitchen and store-room. This last was empty. I confess I thought + rather regretfully of my pretty, comfortable, English-looking bed-room at + the other house, with its curtains and carpet, its wardrobes and + looking-glasses, when I found myself surveying the scene of my completed + labours. Two station <i>bunks</i>,—i.e., wooden bed-frames of the + simplest and rudest construction, with a sacking bottom,—a couple of + empty boxes, one for a dressing-table and the other for a wash-stand, a + tin basin and a bucket of water, being the paraphernalia of the latter, + whilst some nails behind the door served to hang our clothes on, such was + my station bedroom and all my own doing too! Certainly it looked + uncomfortable enough to satisfy any one, but I would not have complained + of it for the world, lest I might have been ordered home directly. + </p> + <p> + Hard as was my bed that night, I slept soundly, and it appeared only five + minutes before I heard a tremendous noise outside the verandah. The + bleating of hundreds of sheep announced that the mob were slowly + advancing, before a perfect army of men and dogs, up to the sheep yards. + What a din they all made! F—— was wide awake, and up in a + moment. I, anxious to show <i>why</i> I had insisted on coming over, got + up too, and made my way into the little kitchen, where I found a charming + surprise awaiting me in the shape of some faggots of neatly-stacked wood, + cut into exactly, the right lengths for the American stove; and also a + heap of dry Menuka bushes, which make the best touchwood for lighting + fires in the whole world. The tiny kitchen and stove were both + scrupulously clean, and so were my three saucepans and kettle. This had + been, of course, my maids' doing, but the fuel was a delicate little + attention on Pepper's part. How he blushed and grinned with delight when I + thanked him before all his mates! This was indeed station-life made easy! + It did not take two minutes to light my fire, and in five more I had a + delicious cup of tea and some bread-and-butter all ready for F——. + It was nearly cold, however, by the time I could catch him and make him + drink it. Of course, being a man, instead of saying, "Thank you," or + anything of that sort, he merely remarked, "What nonsense!" but equally of + course, he was very glad to get it, and ate and drank it all up, returning + instantly to his shed. + </p> + <p> + After this little episode, I set to work to unpack a little, and make the + sitting-room look the least bit more home-like; then I laid the cloth for + breakfast, put out the pie and potted meat, etc. (no words can say how + heartily tired of pies we both were before the week was over), and + arranged everything for breakfast. Then I waylaid one of the numerous + stray "hands" which hang about a station at shearing time, and got him to + fetch me a couple of buckets of water as far as the verandah. These I + conveyed myself into the little sleeping-room, and finished my toilette at + my leisure: tidying it all up afterwards. I wonder if any one has any idea + what hot work it is making a bed? So hot, in fact, that I resolved in + future to be wise enough to finish all these domestic occupations before I + had my bath. The worst of getting up so early proved to be that by nine + o'clock I was very tired, and had nothing else to do for the remainder of + the long, noisy day. As for the meals, they were wretchedly unsociable; + for F—— only came in to snatch a mouthful or two, standing, + and it was of little use trying to make things comfortable for him. I must + confess here, what I would not acknowledge at the time, that I found it a + very long and dull visit. My husband never had time to speak to me, and + when he did, it was only about sheep. I grew weary of living on cold meat, + for it was really too hot to cook; and my servants used to send me over, + every second day, cold fowls or pies; besides, one seemed to live in a + whirl and confusion of dust, and bleating, and barking. After the day's + work was fairly over, F—— used to rush in, seize a big + bath-towel, cry "I am off for a bathe in the creek," and only return in + time for supper and bed. The weather was all that a sheep-farmer could + desire. Bright, sunny, and clear, one lovely summer day followed another; + hot, almost to tropical warmth, without any risk or fear of sun-stroke or + head-ache, and a delicious lightness in the atmosphere all the time, which + merged into a cool bracing air the moment the sun had slowly travelled + behind the high hills to the westward. + </p> + <p> + But all these details, though necessary to make you understand what I had + been doing, are not the story itself, so to that we will hurry on. The + shearing was over; Saturday evening had come, as welcome to poor + imprisoned me as to any one, and the great work of the New Zealand year + had been most successfully accomplished. F—— was in such good + humour that he even deigned to admit that his own comfort had been + somewhat increased by my living at the home station, so I felt quite + rewarded for my many dreary hours. The shearers had been paid, and were + even then picking their way over the hills in little groups of two and + three; some, I grieve to say, bound for the nearest accommodation-house or + wayside inn, and others for the next station, across the river, where the + skillions were full, and waiting for them to begin on Monday morning. Only + half-a-dozen people, instead of thirty, were left at our place, and there + would not even have been so many if it had not been thought well to keep a + few there until the bale-loft was empty. Generally it was arranged for the + wool-drays to follow each other every two days with a load down to + Christchurch; for the greatest risk a sheep-farmer runs is from his shed + taking fire whilst it is full of bales of wool. This had happened often + enough in the colony, and even in our neighbourhood, to make us more and + more careful every year; and, as I have said, amongst our precautions, was + that of keeping as little wool as possible in the shed. Most flock-owners + waited until the shearing should be quite over before they carted the wool + away; but in that case, a spark from a pipe, a match carelessly dropped in + a tussock outside, when a nor'-wester was blowing,—and the slight + wooden building would be blazing like a torch, and your year's income + vanishing in the smoke! + </p> + <p> + Even at the last moment, when the cart had already started homewards, with + the tin bath balanced once more on the top of the mattresses and boxes; + when the house was empty, and I was waiting, my hat and jacket on, and + flax-stick in hand, eager to set out, a doubt arose about the expediency + of our return home. Some accidental delay had prevented the dray from + arriving in time to start for Christchurch with the last load, and between + two and three hundred pounds worth of wool still remained in the shed,—packed + and labelled indeed, but neither insured nor protected from the risk of + fire in any way. F—— was very loath to leave them there; but, + yielding to my entreaties, he called Pepper, the head shepherd, and + solemnly gave the wool-shed and its contents over into his charge, with + many and many a caution about fire. Pepper was as trustworthy and steady a + shepherd as any in the colony, and promised to "keep his weather-eye + open," as he phrased it, in nautical slang picked up from some run-away + sailor. + </p> + <p> + All the way home F—— said from time to time, anxiously, "I + wish the shed was empty;" but I cheered him up, and told him he was + over-tired and unreasonably nervous, and so forth, but with a great + longing myself for Monday morning to come, and for the dray to take its + load and start. I need not dwell on how delicious it was to return home, + where everything seemed so comfortable and nice, and the bed felt + especially soft and welcome to tired limbs. Early were our hours, you may + be sure, and we slept the sleep of the hard-worked until between two and + three o'clock the next morning. Then we were roused up by some one + knocking loudly against our wide-open latticed window. + </p> + <p> + I was the first to hear the noise, and cried, "Who's there? what is it?" + all in a breath. + </p> + <p> + "The wool-shed on fire," murmured F——, in a tone of agonized + conviction. + </p> + <p> + "It's you that's wanted, please mum, this moment, over at the home + station!" I heard Pepper say, in impatient tones. + </p> + <p> + "It's the wool-shed," repeated F——, more than half asleep, and + with only room for that one idea in his dreamy mind. + </p> + <p> + "Nonsense!" I cried, jumping out of bed. "I should not be wanted if the + wool-shed were on fire. Don't you hear Pepper say he wants me?" + </p> + <p> + "All right, then," said F——, actually turning over and + proposing to go to sleep again. But there was no more sleep for either of + us that night. Whilst I hastily put on my riding-habit, Pepper told me, + through the window; an incoherent tale of some one being at the point of + death, and wanting me to cure him, and the master to bring over pen and + ink, to make a will, and dying speeches and cold shivers, all mixed up + together in a tangle of words. F—— took some minutes to + understand that it was Fenwick, a gigantic Yorkshireman, who had been + seized with what Pepper would call the "choleraics," and who, in spite of + having swallowed all the mustard and rum and "pain-killer" left on the + premises, grew worse and worse every moment. "He's dying, safe enough," + concluded Pepper, "but he's main anxious to see you, mum, and the master; + and he wants a Bible brought to swear him, and he's powerful uneasy to + make his will." I knew quite as little of medicine as my husband did of + law, but of course we decided instantly that we ought both to go and see + what could be done in any way to relieve either the body or mind of the + sufferer. + </p> + <p> + We said to each other while we were hastily dressing, "How shall we ever + catch the horses? They have all been turned out, of course, as no one + thought they would be wanted until Monday; and who knows where they have + gone to?—miles away, perhaps; and it's pitch dark." Judge, then, of + our delighted surprise, when, on going out into the verandah, preparatory + to starting off to look for our steeds, we found them standing at the + gate, ready saddled and bridled. It seemed like magic, but the good + fairies in this case had been the two guests to whom I have alluded as + having arrived just as we were starting for our picnic life. They were + both "old chums," and understood the situation instantly. Whilst we were + questioning Pepper (you can hear every word all over a New Zealand house), + they had jumped up, huddled on their clothes, and gone over the brow of + the hill to look for the horses. By great good fortune the whole mob was + found quietly camping in the sheltered valley full of sweet grass, on its + further side. To walk up to my pretty bay mare Helen, and lay hold of her + mane, and then, vaulting on her back, ride the rest of the mob back into + the stockyard, was, even in the deep darkness of a midsummer night, no + difficult task for eyes so practised to catching horses under all + circumstances. So here was one obstacle suddenly smoothed, and as I + hastily collected my few simple remedies, consisting chiefly of flannel, + chlorodyne, and brandy, I could only trust and pray that poor Fenwick's + case might not be so desperate as Pepper represented it. + </p> + <p> + To our impatience, the difficult track, with its swamps and holes, its + creeks to be jumped, and morasses to be avoided, seemed long indeed; but + to judge from the continued profound darkness,—that inky blackness + of the sky which is the immediate forerunner of daylight,—the dawn + could not be far off. How well I remember the whole scene! F—— + tied his white handkerchief on his arm, that Helen and I might have a + faint speck of light by which to guide ourselves. Pepper rode close to me, + pouring into my ears dismal predictions of Fenwick's end; whilst I, amid + all my anxiety, could only think of the dangers of the track, and whether, + in the pitchy darkness, we should ever get to the home station. The dew + fell so heavily that more than once I thought it must be raining, but + those were only wind-clouds brooding in the great dark vault above us. + More welcome than ever sounded the bark of the dogs, which told us we had + reached the end of our stumbling ride; and the moment their tongues woke + up the silence, a lantern showed a ray of light to guide us to the hut + door. + </p> + <p> + I jumped off my horse instantly, and went in. At first I thought my + patient was dead, for he lay, rigid and grey, in his bunk. At a glance I + perceived that nothing could really be done to help him whilst he was + lying on a high shelf, almost out of my reach, in a small hut filled with + bewildered men, who kept offering him from time to time a "pull" at a + particularly good pipe, having previously poured all the grog they could + muster down his throat, or rather over his pillow (his saddle performed + that duty by night), for he had been unable to swallow for some hours. I + remembered that there were the bedsteads we had used at the house, and + also some firewood still left in the kitchen. Explaining to Pepper how he + was to wrap poor Fenwick in every available blanket in the place, and + carry him across the open space into the parlour, I hastily ran on before, + got some one to help me to drag one of the light frames into the + sitting-room, laced it before the fireplace, and then made up a good + blazing fire on the open hearth. By the time the dry wood was crackling + and sparkling out its cheery welcome, my patient arrived, and was laid + down, blankets and all, on the rude little bedstead, before the blaze. By + its fitful and uncertain light I proceeded to examine the enormous frame + stretched so helplessly before me, feeling half afraid to touch him at + all. F—— was very trying as an assistant, for he looked on + without making any suggestions, and only said from time to time, "Take + care: the man is dead." To my inexperienced eyes he indeed seemed past all + human help. His skin was icy cold, and as wet as if he had been lying out + in the dew. No flutter of pulse, nor sign of breath, could my trembling + efforts discover; but I fancied there was the least little sign of + pulsation about his heart. Of course I had not the vaguest notion of what + was the matter with the man, for all Pepper could tell me was that + "Fenwick's been powerful bad, you bet." This does not sound a minute + diagnosis to go on, and the only remedies which presented themselves to my + mind were those I had studied as being useful for the recovery of drowned + persons. So to work I set, as if the poor fellow had just been fished out + of the creek; and whenever any one wanted to teaze me afterwards they + would declare I had insisted on Fenwick's being held up by his heels. But + of course that was all nonsense. What I did really do was this, and a + doctor in Christchurch, whom I afterwards consulted as to my treatment, + assured me, laughingly, that it was "capital." + </p> + <p> + I made Pepper and another man both rub the cold clammy body, as hard as + they could with mustard and hot flannel. I got some bottles filled with + hot water (for it did not take five minutes to boil the kettle) and placed + to his icy-cold feet and under his arms, then I mixed a little very strong + and hot brandy and water, to which I added a few drops of chlorodyne, and + gave him a teaspoonful every five minutes. For the first half-hour there + was no sign of life to be detected, and the same horrible bluish pallor + made poor Fenwick's really handsome face look ghastly in the flickering + light. My two assistants were getting exhausted, and Pepper had more than + once murmured, with the recollection of the past fortnight's work strong + upon him, "Spell, oh!" or else "Shears!" [Note: the shearer's demand for a + few minutes rest] whilst his companion inquired pathetically, "What was + the use of flaying a dead man?" To these hints I paid no attention, though + my damp riding habit was steaming from the heat of the fire and I felt + dreadfully tired; for certainly there seemed to my eyes a healthier tinge + stealing over the rigid features, and it could not be my fancy which + detected a stronger effort to swallow the last spoonful of brandy. + </p> + <p> + I need not go into the details of my jumbled-up remedies; probably I + should bring upon myself serious remonstrances from the Royal Humane + Society, if my treatment of that unhappy man were made public. It is + enough to say that I "exhibited" mustard by the pound and brandy by the + quart, that I roasted him first on one side and then on the other, that + his true skin was rubbed off, that I chlorodyned him until he slept for + nearly a week, and that when he finally recovered he declared he felt "as + if he'd been dead:" "And no wonder," as Pepper always remarked. The only + clue I could get to the cause of his illness was a shy confession, about a + week afterwards, that he had eaten a few mushrooms. Fenwick's idea of a + few of anything was generally a liberal notion. I questioned him narrowly + as to what he had had for supper the night he was taken ill, and this was + his bill of fare:— + </p> + <p> + "Well, you see, mum, I wasn't rightly hungry: it must have been them + gripses coming on. So I only had a shoulder (of mutton, <i>bien entendu</i>; + when Fenwick had really a good appetite he regarded anything less than a + whole leg of a sheep as an insult) that night, half-a-dozen slap jacks, + and a trifle of mushrooms." "How big were the mushrooms?" I asked. "Oh, + they was rather fine ones, mum, I won't deny: they might have been the + bigness of a plate." Now even supposing them to have been perfectly + wholesome, a few dozen mushrooms of that size, eaten half raw with a whole + shoulder of mutton, are quite enough to my ignorant mind to account for so + severe a fit of the "choleraics." + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0017" id="link2HCH0017"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XVII: Odds and ends. + </h2> + <p> + My nerves had hardly recovered the shock of having the care of such a huge + patient thrust on me; for, seriously speaking, Fenwick took a good deal of + nursing and attention before he got well again, when we had another night + alarm. Our beautiful summer weather was breaking up; high nor'-westers had + blown down the gorges for days, and now a cold wet gale was coming up in + heavy banks of fleecy clouds from the sou'-west. Everything looked cold + and wretched out of doors, but the sheep-farmers were thankful and + pleased. Their "mobs" could find excellent shelter for themselves, for it + takes <i>very</i> bad weather to hurt a Merino sheep, and the creeks had + been running rather low. "We shall have a splendid autumn after this is + over," said all the squatters gleefully, "with lots of feed: there's + Tyler's creek coming down beautifully." + </p> + <p> + So I was fain to be content, though my fowls looked draggled and wretched, + and my pet patch of mignonette became a miniature desert, its fragrance + being all blown and rain-beaten away. Good fires of lignite and wood made + the house cheery, and we went to bed, hoping for fine weather next day. In + the middle of the night everyone was awakened by a tremendous, echoing + noise outside, whilst the frail wooden house vibrated perceptibly. It + could not be caused by the wind: for, although the rain kept pouring + steadily down, the furious sou'-west gusts had long ago been beaten into a + sullen silence by the descending torrents. For a moment, and half-awake, + an old tropical reminiscence floated through my sleepy, startled mind: + "Can it be an earthquake?" I dreamily wondered. But, no earthquake of my + acquaintance was ever yet so resounding and noisy, for all its crumbling + horror: yet, the house was certainly shaking. "What is it? What are you + doing?" rang in shouts through the little dwelling, as its dwellers came + thronging, one after another, to our door. Frightened as I was, I can + perfectly remember how indignant I felt, when it became clear to my mind + that they all thought <i>we</i> were making such an uproar. How could we + do it, if even we had wished to get out of our warm beds, and create a + disturbance on such a wild night. + </p> + <p> + "Good gracious! the house is coming down," I cried, as a fresh shudder ran + through the slight framework of, our little wooden home. "Pray go out, and + see what is the matter." Thus urged, F—— opened a casement on + the sheltered side,—if any side could be said to be sheltered in + such weather,—and cautiously put his head out. I peered over his + shoulder, and never can I forget the ridiculous sight which met our eyes. + There, dripping and forlorn, huddled together under the wide roof of our + summer parlour, as the verandah used to be often called, the whole mob of + horses had gathered themselves. The garden gate chanced to have been left + open, and, evidently under old Jack's' guidance, they had all walked into + the verandah, wandered disconsolately up and down its boarded floor, and + after partaking of a slight refreshment in the shape of my best creepers, + had proceeded to make themselves at home by rubbing their wet sides + against the pillars and the wooden sides of the house itself. + </p> + <p> + No wonder the noise had aroused us all. Ironshod hoofs clattering up and + down a boarded verandah is riot a silent performance; and Jack was so cool + and impudent about it, positively refusing to stir from the sheltered + corner by the silver-pheasants' aviary, which he had chosen for himself. + The other horses evidently felt they were intruders, and were glad enough, + on the flapping of a handkerchief, to hurry out of their impromptu + stables, making the best of their way through the narrow garden gate, and + so out upon the bleak hills again. But Jack's conduct was very trying; he + found himself perfectly comfortable, and evidently intended to remain so; + neither for wishing nor coaxing, for fair words nor foul, would he stir. + It seemed so horrid to have to dress and go out in such a downpour of + rain, that we weakly deliberated on the expediency of letting the cunning + old stock-horse remain; but fortunately, at that moment he began to + scratch his ear with his hind foot, waking up a thousand echoes against + the side of the house as he did so, and making the pictures dance again on + the canvas and paper walls. "This will never do," cried we all, + desperately: "he sure must be taken to the stable or he'll come back + again." That was exactly what Jack meant and wanted: so to the stable he + went, under poor shivering Mr. U——'s guidance, and the old + rogue spent a dry, warm night under its roof. + </p> + <p> + It was the more absurd Jack pretending to be afraid of a wet night, when + he had walked many and many a weary mile over the rough mountain passes + towards the West-Coast, with a heavy pack on his back and in all sorts of + weather. A tradition existed in our neighbourhood that Jack had once been + met crossing the Amuri Downs with a small barrel-organ, an American + cooking stove, and a sow with a litter of young ones, all packed on his + back, "and stepping out bravely under them all," as my informant added. + But I cannot vouch for the truth of the items of this load. Jack's fame as + a stock-horse, as well as a pack-horse, stood high in the Malvern Hills, + but his conduct in the shafts was eccentric, to say the least of it. He + could not bear to be guided by his driver, and was always squinting over + his blinkers in the most ridiculous manner. If he perceived a mob of + cattle or horses on a distant flat, he would set off to have a look at + them and determine whether they were strangers or friends, dragging the + gig after him "over bank, bush, and scaur." + </p> + <p> + Once when we were in great despair for a cart-horse, Jack was elected to + the post, but long before we had come to the journey's end we regretted + our choice. It was during the first summer of my life in the Malvern + Hills, and whilst the nor'-westers were still steadily setting their + breezy faces against such a new fangled idea as a lawn. I had wearied of + sowing grass seed at, a guinea a bag, long before those extremely rude + zephyrs got tired of blowing it all out of the ground. There was my + beautiful set of croquet, fresh from Jacques, lying idle in its box in the + verandah, and there was my charming friend, Alice S——, longing + for a game of croquet. When pretty young ladies wish for anything very + much, and the house is full of gentlemen, it goes hard, but that they get + the desire of their innocent hearts. So it was in this case. One fine + afternoon Alice wandered into the verandah and peeped for the hundredth + time into the box. "What beautiful things," she sighed, "and how hard it + is we can't have a game." "I know a patch of self-sown grass," sang one of + the party, "whereon we might play a game." "Where: oh, where?" we asked, + in eager chorus. "About two miles from this, near a deserted shepherd's + hut; it is as thick and soft as green velvet, and the sheep keep it quite + short." "Is the ground level?" we inquired. "As flat as this table," was + the satisfactory answer. + </p> + <p> + Of course we wanted to start immediately, but how were we to get the + croquet things there, to say nothing of the delightful excuse for tea out + of doors which immediately presented itself to my ever-thirsty mind. A + dray was suggested (carriages we had none; there being no roads for them + if we had possessed such vehicles); but alas, and alas! the proper dray + and driver and horse were all away, on an expedition up a distant gulley + getting out some brush-wood for fires. "There's Jack," some one said, + doubtfully. He had never even drawn a dray in his life, so far as we knew, + but at the same time we felt sure that when once Jack understood what was + required of him, he would do his best to help us to get to our croquet + ground. So we flew off to our different duties. Alice to see that the + balls, hoops, and mallets were all right in numbers and colours, &c.; + I to pack a large open basket with the materials for my favourite form of + dissipation—an out-door tea; and the gentlemen to catch Jack and + harness him into the cart. + </p> + <p> + Peals of laughter announced the setting forth of the expedition; and no + wonder! Inside the dray, which was a very light and crazy old affair, was + seated Alice on an empty flour-sack; by her side I crouched on an old + sugar bag, one of my arms keeping tight hold of my beloved tea-basket with + its jingling contents, whilst the other was desperately clutching at the + side of the dray. On a board across the front three gentlemen were + perched, each wanting to drive, exactly like so many small children in a + goat carriage, and like them, one holding the reins, the other the whip, + and the third giving good advice. In the shafts stood poor shaggy old + Jack, looking over his blinkers as much as to say, "What do you want me to + do now?" Our good humoured and stalwart cadet Mr. U——, walked + backwards, holding out a carrot and calling Jack to come and eat it. + </p> + <p> + In this extraordinary fashion we proceeded down the flat for two or three + hundred yards, one carrot succeeding the other in Jack's jaws rapidly. Mr. + U—— was just beginning to say "Look here: don't you think we + ought to take turns at this?" when Jack caught sight of a creek right + before him. He only knew of one way of crossing such obstacles, and that + was to jump them. No one calculated on the sudden rush and high bound into + the air with which he triumphantly cleared the water; knocking Mr. U—— + over, and scattering his three drivers like summer leaves on the track. As + for Alice and me, the inside passengers, we found the sensation of jumping + a creek in a dray most unpleasant. All the croquet balls leapt wildly up + into the air to fall like a wooden hailstorm around us. The mallets and + hoops bruised us from our head to our feet; and the contents of my basket + were utterly ruined. Not only had my tea-cups and saucers come together in + one grand smash, but the kettle broke the bottle of cream, which in its + turn absorbed all the sugar. Jack looked coolly round at us with an air of + mild satisfaction, as if he thought he had done something very clever, + whilst our shrieks were rending the air. + </p> + <p> + What a merry, light-hearted time of one's life was that! We all had to + work hard, and our amusements were so simple and Arcadian that I often + wonder if they really did amuse us so much as we thought they did at the + moment. Let all New Zealanders who doubt this, look into those perhaps + closed chapters of their lives, and as memory turns over the leaves one by + one, and pictures like the sketches I try to reproduce in pen and ink, + grow into distinctness out of the dim past, it will indeed "surprise me + very much," if they do not say, as I do,—my pleasant task ended,—"Ah, + those were happy days indeed!" ended,—"Ah, those were happy days + indeed!" <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Station Amusements, by Lady Barker + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STATION AMUSEMENTS *** + +***** This file should be named 5992-h.htm or 5992-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/5/9/9/5992/ + +Produced by P. J. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Station Amusements + +Author: Lady Barker + +Release Date: June, 2004 [EBook #5992] +Posting Date: June 4, 2009 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STATION AMUSEMENTS *** + + + + +Produced by P. J. Riddick + + + + + +STATION AMUSEMENTS IN NEW ZEALAND + + +By Lady Barker + + + + +Preface. + + +The interest shown by the public in the simple and true account of +every-day life in New Zealand, published by the author three years +ago, has encouraged her to enlarge upon the theme. This volume is but a +continuation of "Station Life," with this difference: that whereas +that little book dwelt somewhat upon practical matters, these pages +are entirely devoted to reminiscences of the idler hours of a settler's +life. + +Many readers have friends and relations out in those beautiful distant +islands, and though her book should possess no wider interest, the +author hopes that these at least will care to know exactly what sort of +life their absent dear ones are leading. One thing is certain: that few +books can ever have afforded so much pleasure to their authors, or can +have appeared more completely to write themselves, than "Station Life," +and this, its sequel. + +M. A. B. + + + +Chapter I: A Bush picnic. + + +Since my return to England, two years ago, I have been frequently asked +by my friends and acquaintances, "How did you amuse yourself up at the +station?" I am generally tempted to reply, "We were all too busy to +need amusement;" but when I come to think the matter over calmly and +dispassionately, I find that a great many of our occupations may be +classed under the head of play rather than work. But that would hardly +give a fair idea of our lives there, either. It would be more correct to +say perhaps, that most of our simple pleasures were composed of a solid +layer of usefulness underneath the froth of fun and frolic. I purpose +therefore in these sketches to describe some of the pursuits which +afforded us a keen enjoyment at the time,--an enjoyment arising from +perfect health, simple tastes, and an exquisite climate. + +It will be as well to begin with the description of one of the picnics, +which were favourite amusements in our home, nestled in a valley of +the Malvern Hills of Canterbury. These hills are of a very respectable +height, and constitute in fact the lowest slopes of the great Southern +Alps, which rise to snow-clad peaks behind them. Our little wooden +homestead stood at the head of a sunny, sheltered valley, and around it +we could see the hills gradually rolling into downs, which in their turn +were smoothed out, some ten or twelve miles off, into the dead level of +the plains. The only drawback to the picturesque beauty of these lower +ranges is the absence of forest, or as it is called there, bush. Behind +the Malvern Hills, where they begin to rise into steeper ascents, lies +many and many a mile of bush-clad mountain, making deep blue shadows +when the setting sun brings the grand Alpine range into sharp white +outline against the background of dazzling Italian sky. But just here, +where my beloved antipodean home stood, we had no trees whatever, except +those which we had planted ourselves, and whose growth we watched with +eager interest. I dwell a little upon this point, to try to convey +to any one who may glance at these pages, how we all,--dwellers among +tree-less hills as we were,--longed and pined for the sights and sounds +of a "bush." + +Quite out of view from the house or garden, and about seven miles away, +lay a mountain pass, or saddle, over a range, which was densely wooded, +and from whose highest peak we could see a wide extent of timbered +country. Often in our evening rides we have gone round by that saddle, +in spite of a break-neck track and quicksands and bogs, just to satisfy +our constant longing for green leaves, waving branches, and the twitter +of birds. Whenever any wood was wanted for building a stockyard, or +slabbing a well, or making a post-and-rail fence around a new paddock, +we were obliged to take out a Government license to cut wood in this +splendid bush. Armed with the necessary document the next step was to +engage "bushmen," or woodcutters by profession, who felled and cut the +timber into the proper lengths, and stacked it neatly in a clearing, +where it could get dry and seasoned. These stacks were often placed in +such inaccessible and rocky parts of the steep mountain side, that they +had to be brought down to the flat in rude little sledges, drawn by +a bullock, who required to be trained to the work, and to possess so +steady and equable a disposition as to be indifferent to the annoyance +of great logs of heavy wood dangling and bumping against his heels as +the sledge pursued its uneven way down the bed of a mountain torrent, in +default of a better road. + +Imagine, then, a beautiful day in our early New Zealand autumn. For +a week past, a furious north-westerly gale had been blowing down the +gorges of the Rakaia and the Selwyn, as if it had come out of a funnel, +and sweeping across the great shelterless plains with irresistible +force. We had been close prisoners to the house all those days, dreading +to open a door to go out for wood or water, lest a terrific blast should +rush in and whip the light shingle roof off. Not an animal could be seen +out of doors; they had all taken shelter on the lee-side of the gorse +hedges, which are always planted round a garden to give the vegetables +a chance of coming up. On the sky-line of the hills could be perceived +towards evening, mobs of sheep feeding with their heads _up_-wind, +and travelling to the high camping-grounds which they always select in +preference to a valley. The yellow tussocks were bending all one way, +perfectly flat to the ground, and the shingle on the gravel walk outside +rattled like hail against the low latticed windows. The uproar from the +gale was indescribable, and the little fragile house swayed and shook as +the furious gusts hurled themselves against it. Inside its shelter, the +pictures were blowing out from the walls, until I expected them to be +shaken off their hooks even in those rooms which had plank walls lined +with papered canvas; whilst in the kitchen, store-room, etc., whose +sides were made of cob, the dust blew in fine clouds from the pulverized +walls, penetrating even to the dairy, and settling half an inch thick +on my precious cream. At last, when our skin felt like tightly drawn +parchment, and our ears and eyes had long been filled with powdered +earth, the wind dropped at sunset as suddenly as it had risen five days +before. We ventured out to breathe the dust-laden atmosphere, and +to look if the swollen creeks (swollen because snow-fed) had done or +threatened to do any mischief, and saw on the south-west horizon great +fleecy masses of cloud driving rapidly up before a chill icy breeze. +Hurrah, here comes a sou'-wester! The parched-up earth, the shrivelled +leaves, the dusty grass, all needed the blessed damp air. In an hour it +was upon us. We had barely time to house the cows and horses, to feed +the fowls, and secure them in their own shed, and to light a roaring +coal (or rather lignite, for it is not true coal) fire in the +drawing-room, when, with a few warning splashes, the deluge of cold rain +came steadily down, and we went to sleep to the welcome sound of its +refreshing patter. + +All that I have been describing was the weather of the past week. +Disagreeable as it might have been, it was needed in both its hot and +cold, dry and wet extremes, to make a true New Zealand day. The furious +nor'-wester had blown every fleck of cloud below the horizon, and dried +the air until it was as light as ether. The "s'utherly buster," on the +other hand, had cooled and refreshed everything in the most delicious +way, and a perfect day had come at last. What words can describe the +pleasure it is to inhale such an atmosphere? One feels as if old age +or sickness or even sorrow, could hardly exist beneath such a spotless +vault of blue as stretched out above our happy heads. I have often +been told that this feeling of intense pleasure on a fine day, which is +peculiar to New Zealand, is really a very low form of animal enjoyment. +It may be so, but I only know that I never stood in the verandah early +in the morning of such a day as I am trying to sketch in pen and ink +now, without feeling the highest spiritual joy, the deepest thankfulness +to the loving Father who had made His beautiful world so fair, and who +would fain lead us through its paths of pleasantness to a still more +glorious, home, which will be free from the shadows brooding from +beneath sin's out-stretched wings over this one. As I stood in the +porch I have often fancied I could seethe animals and even the poultry +expressing in dumb brute fashion, their joy and gratitude to the God +from whom all blessings flow. + +But to return to the verandah, although we have never left it. Presently +F---- came out, and I said with a sigh, born of deep content and +happiness, "What a day!" "Yes," answered F----: "a heavenly day indeed: +well worth waiting for. I want to go and see how the men are getting on +in the bush. Will you like to come too?" "Of course I will. What can be +more enchanting than the prospect of spending such sunny hours in that +glorious bush?" So after breakfast I give my few simple orders to the +cook, and prepare, to pack a "Maori kit," or flat basket made of flax, +which could be fastened to my side-saddle, with the preparations for our +luncheon. First some mutton chops had to be trimmed and prepared, all +ready to be cooked when we got there. These were neatly folded up in +clean paper; and a little packet of tea, a few lumps of white sugar, +a tiny wooden contrivance for holding salt and pepper, and a couple of +knives and forks, were added to the parcel. + +So much for the contents of the basket. They needed to be carefully +packed so as not to rattle in any way, or Helen, my pretty bay mare, +would soon have got rid of the luncheon--and me. I wrapped up three or +four large raw potatoes in separate bits of paper, and slipped them into +F----'s pockets when he was looking another way, and then began the real +difficulty of my picnic: how was the little tin tea-pot and an odd +delf cup to be carried? F---- objected to put them also in his pocket, +assuring me that I could make very good tea by putting my packet of the +fragrant leaves into the bushmen's kettle, and drinking it afterwards +out of one of their pannikins. He tried to bribe me to this latter piece +of simplicity by promising to wash the tin pannikin out for me first. +Now I was not dainty or over particular; I could not have enjoyed my New +Zealand life so thoroughly if I had been either; but I did not like the +idea of using the bushmen's tea equipage. In the first place, the tea +never tastes the same when made in their way, and allowed to boil for a +moment or two after the leaves have been thrown in, before the kettle is +taken off the fire; and in the next place, it is very difficult to +drink tea out of a pannikin; for it becomes so hot directly we put +the scalding liquid into it, that long after the tea is cool enough +to drink, the pannikin still continues too hot to touch. But I said so +pathetically, "You know how wretched I am without my tea," that F----'s +heart relented, and he managed to stow away the little teapot and +the cup. That cup bore a charmed life. It accompanied me on all my +excursions, escaping unbroken; and is, I believe, in existence now, +spending its honoured old age in the recesses of a cupboard. + +After the luncheon, the next question to be decided is, which of the +dogs are to join the expedition. Hector, of course; he is the master's +colley, and would no more look at a sheep, except in the way of +business, than he would fly. Rose, a little short-haired terrier, was +the most fascinating of dog companions, and I pleaded hard for her, as +she was an especial pet; though there were too many lambs belonging to +a summer lambing (in New Zealand the winter is the usual lambing season) +in the sheltered paddocks beneath the bush, to make it quite safe for +her to be one of the party. She would not kill or hurt a lamb on +any account, but she always appeared anxious to play with the little +creatures; and as her own spotless coat was as white as theirs, she +often managed to get quite close to a flock of sheep before they +perceived that she belonged to the dreaded race of dogs. When the timid +animals found out their mistake, a regular stampede used to ensue; and +it was not supposed to be good for the health of the old or young sheep +to hurry up the hill-sides in such wild fashion as that in which they +rushed away from Rose's attempts to intrude on their society. Nettle may +come, for he is but a tiny terrier, and so fond of his mistress that he +never strays a yard away from her horse's heels. Brisk, my beautiful, +stupid water-spaniel, is also allowed an outing. He is perfect to look +at, but not having had any educational advantages in his youth, is an +utter fool; amiable, indeed, but not the less a fool. Garibaldi, another +colley, is suffering a long penal sentence of being tied up to his +barrel, on account of divers unlawful chases after sheep which were +not wanted; and dear old Jip, though she pretends to be very anxious +to accompany us; is far too fat and too rheumatic to keep pace with our +long stretching gallop up the valley. + +At last we were fairly off about eleven o'clock, and an hour's easy +canter, intersected by many "flat-jumps," or rather "water-jumps," +across the numerous creeks, brought unto the foot of the bush-clad +mountain. After that our pace became a very sober one, as the track +resembled a broken rocky staircase more than a bridle-path. But such as +it was, our sure-footed horses carried us safely up and down its +rugged steeps, without making a single false step. No mule can be more +sure-footed than a New Zealand horse. He will carry his rider anywhere, +if only that rider trusts entirely to him, nor attempts to guide him in +any way. During the last half-hour of our slow and cat-like climb, +we could hear the ring of the bushmen's axes, and the warning shouts +preceding the crashing fall of a Black Birch. Fallen logs and deep ruts +made by the sledges in their descent, added to the difficulties of the +track; and I was so faint-hearted as to entreat piteously, on more +than one occasion, when Helen paused and shook her head preparatory to +climbing over a barricade, to be "taken off." But F---- had been used to +these dreadful roads for too many years to regard them in the same light +as I did, and would answer carelessly, "Nonsense: you're as safe as if +you were sitting in an arm-chair." All I can say is, it might have been +so, but I did not feel at all like it. + +However, the event proved him to have been right, and we reached the +clearing in safety. Here we dismounted, and led the horses to a place +where they could nibble some grass, and rest in the cool shade. The +saddles and bridles were soon removed, and halters improvised out of the +New Zealand flax, which can be turned to so many uses. Having provided +for the comfort of our faithful animals, our next step was to look for +the bushmen. The spot which we had reached was their temporary home in +the heart of the forest, but their work was being carried on elsewhere. +I could not have told from which side the regular ringing axe-strokes +proceeded, so confusing were the echoes from the cliffs around us; +but after a moment's silent pause F---- said, "If we follow that track +(pointing to a slightly cleared passage among the trees) we shall +come upon them." So I kilted up my linsey skirt, and hung up my little +jacket, necessary for protection against the evening air, on a bough out +of the wekas' reach, whilst I followed F---- through tangled creepers, +"over brake, over brier," towards the place from whence the noise of +falling trees proceeded. By the time we reached it, our scratched hands +and faces bore traces of the thorny undergrowth which had barred our +way; but all minor discomforts were forgotten in the picturesque beauty +of the spot. Around us lay the forest-kings, majestic still in their +overthrow, whilst substantial stacks of cut-up and split timber +witnessed to the skill and industry of the stalwart figures before us, +who reddened through their sunburn with surprise and shyness at seeing +a lady. They need not have been afraid of me, for I had long ago made +friends with them, and during the preceeding winter had established a +sort of night-school in my dining-room, for all the hands employed on +the station, and these two men had been amongst my most constant pupils. +One of them, a big Yorkshire-man, was very backward in his "larning," +and though he plodded on diligently, never got beyond the simplest words +in the largest type. Small print puzzled him at once, and he had a habit +of standing or sitting with his back to me whilst repeating his lessons. +Nothing would induce him to face me. The moment it became his turn to +go on with the chapter out of the Bible, with which we commenced our +studies, that instant he turned his broad shoulders towards me, and I +could only, hear the faintest murmurs issuing from the depths of a great +beard. Remonstrance would have scared my shy pupil away, so I was fain +to put up with his own method of instruction. + +But this is a digression, and I want to make you see with my eyes the +beautiful glimpses of distant country lying around the bold wooded +cliff on which we were standing. The ground fell away from our feet so +completely in some places, that we could see over the tops of the high +trees around us, whilst in others the landscape appeared framed in an +arch of quivering foliage. A noisy little creek chattered and babbled as +it hurried along to join its big brother down below, and kept a fringe +of exquisite ferns, which grew along its banks, brightly green by its +moisture. Each tree, if taken by itself, was more like an umbrella than +anything else to English eyes, for in these primitive forests, where +no kind pruning hand has ever touched them, they shoot up, straight and +branchless, into the free air above, where they spread a leafy crown out +to the sunbeams. Beneath the dense shade of these matted branches grew +a luxuriant shrubbery, whose every leaf was a marvel of delicate beauty, +and ferns found here a home such as they might seek elsewhere in vain. +Flowers were very rare, and I did not observe many berries, but these +conditions vary in different parts of the beautiful middle island. + +That was a fair and fertile land stretching out before us, intersected +by the deep banks of the Rakaia, with here and there a tiny patch of +emerald green and a white dot, representing the house and English grass +paddock of a new settler. In the background the bush-covered mountains +rose ever higher and higher in bolder outline, till they shook off +their leafy clothing, and stood out in steep cliffs and scaurs from the +snow-clad glacier region of the mountain range running from north to +south, and forming the back bone of the island. I may perhaps make you +see the yellow, river-furrowed plains, and the great confusion of +rising ground behind them, but cannot make you see, still less feel, the +atmosphere around, quivering in a summer haze in the valley beneath, and +stirred to the faintest summer wind-sighs as it moved among the pines +and birches overhead. Its lightness was its most striking peculiarity. +You felt as if your lungs could never weary of inhaling deep breaths of +such an air. Warm without oppression, cool without a chill. I can find +nothing but paradoxes to describe it. As for fatigue, one's muscles +might get tired, and need rest, but the usual depression and weariness +attending over-exertion could not exist in such an atmosphere. One felt +like a happy child; pleased at nothing, content to exist where existence +was a pleasure. + +You could not find more favourable specimens of New Zealand colonists +than the two men, Trew and Domville, who stood before us in their +working dress of red flannel shirts and moleskin trousers, "Cookham" +boots and digger's plush hats. Three years before this day they had +landed at Port Lyttleton, with no other capital than their strong, +willing arms, and their sober, sensible heads. Very different is their +appearance to-day from what it was on their arrival; and the change in +their position and circumstances is as great. Their bodily frames have +filled out and developed under the influence of the healthy climate +and abundance of mutton, until they look ten years younger and twice as +strong, and each man owns a cottage and twenty acres of freehold land, +at which he works in spare time, as well as having more pounds than he +ever possessed pence in the old country, put safely away in the bank. +There can be no doubt about the future of any working man or woman +in our New Zealand colonies. It rests in their own hands, under God's +blessing, and the history of the whole human race shows us that He +always has blessed honest labour and rightly directed efforts to do our +duty in this world. Sobriety and industry are the first essentials to +success. Possessing these moral qualifications, and a pair of hands, +a man may rear up his children in those beautiful distant lands in +ignorance of what hunger; or thirst, or grinding poverty means. Hitherto +the want of places of worship, and schools for the children, have been +a sad drawback to the material advantages of colonization at the +Antipodes; but these blessings are increasing every day, and the need of +them creates the supply. + +The great mistake made in England, next to that of sending out worthless +idle paupers, who have never done a hand's turn for themselves here, and +are still less likely to do it elsewhere, is for parents and guardians +to ship off to New Zealand young men who have received the up-bringing +and education of gentlemen, without a shilling in their pockets, under +the vague idea that something will turn up for them in a new place. +There is nothing which can turn up, for the machinery of civilization is +reduced to the most primitive scale in these countries; and I have known +500 pounds per annum regarded as a monstrous salary to be drawn by a +hard-worked official of some twenty years standing and great experience +in the colony. From this we may judge of the chances of remunerative +employment for a raw unfledged youth, with a smattering of classical +learning. At first they simply "loaf" (as it is called there) on their +acquaintances and friends. At the end of six months their clothes are +beginning to look shabby; they feel they _ought_ to do something, and +they make day by day the terrible discovery that there is nothing for +them to do in their own rank of life. Many a poor clergyman's son, +sooner than return to the home which has been so pinched to furnish +forth his passage money and outfit, takes a shepherd's billet, though he +generally makes a very bad shepherd for the first year or two; or drives +bullocks, or perhaps wanders vaguely over the country, looking for work, +and getting food and lodging indeed, for inhospitality is unknown, but +no pay. Sometimes they go to the diggings, only to find that money is as +necessary there as anywhere, and that they are not fitted to dig in wet +holes for eight or ten hours a day. Often these poor young men go home +again, and it is the best thing they can do, for at least they have +gained some knowledge of life, on its dark as well as its brighter side. +But still oftener, alas, they go hopelessly to the bad, degenerating +into billiard markers, piano players at dancing saloons, cattle drivers, +and their friends probably lose sight of them. + +Once I was riding with my husband up a lovely gulley, when we heard +the crack of a stockwhip, sounding strangely through the deep eternal +silence of a New Zealand valley, and a turn of the track showed us a +heavy, timber-laden bullock-waggon labouring slowly along. At the head +of the long team sauntered the driver, in the usual rough-and-ready +costume, with his soft plush hat pulled low over his face, and pulling +vigorously at a clay pipe. In spite of all the outer surroundings, +something in the man's walk and dejected attitude struck my imagination, +and I made some remark to my companion. The sound of my voice reached +the bullock-driver's ears; he looked up, and on seeing a lady, took his +pipe out of his mouth, his hat off his head, and forcing his beasts a +little aside, stood at their head to let us pass. I smiled and nodded, +receiving in return a perfect and profound bow, and the most melancholy +glance I have ever seen in human eyes. "Good gracious, F----," I cried, +when we had passed, "who is that man?" "That is Sir So-and-So's third +son," he replied: "they sent him out here without a shilling, five years +ago, and that is what he has come to: a working man, living with working +men. He looks heart-broken, poor fellow, doesn't he?" I, acting upon +impulse, as any woman would have done, turning back and rode up to him, +finding it very difficult to frame my pity and sympathy in coherent +words. "No thank you, ma'am," was all the answer I could get, in the +most refined, gentlemanly tone of voice: "I'm very well as I am. I +should only have the struggle all over again if I made any change now. +It is the truest kindness to leave me alone." He would not even shake +hands with me; so I rode back; discomfited, to hear from F---- that he +had made many attempts to befriend him, but without success. "In fact," +concluded F----, with some embarrassment, "he drinks dreadfully, poor +fellow. Of course that is the secret of all his wretchedness, but I +believe despair drove him to it in the first instance." + +I have also known an ex-dragoon officer working as a clerk in an +attorney's office at fifteen shillings a week, who lived like a +mechanic, and yet spake and stepped like his old self; one listened +involuntarily for the clink of the sabre and spur whenever he moved +across the room. + +This has been a terrible digression, almost a social essay in fact; but +I have it so much at heart to dissuade fathers and mothers from sending +their sons so far away without any certainty of employment. Capitalists, +even small ones, do well in New Zealand: the labouring classes still +better; but there is no place yet for the educated gentleman without +money, and with hands unused to and unfit for manual labour and the +downward path is just as smooth and pleasant at first there, as anywhere +else. + +Trew and Domville soon got over their momentary shyness, and answered my +inquiries about their families. Then I had a short talk with them, but +on the principle that it is "ill speaking to a fasting man," we agreed +to adjourn to the clearing, where they had built a rough log hut for +temporary shelter, and have our dinner. They had provided themselves +with some bacon; but were very glad to accept of F----'s offer of +mutton, to be had for the trouble of fetching it. When we reached +the little shanty, Trew produced some capital bread, he had baked the +evening before in a camp-oven; F----'s pockets were emptied of their +load of potatoes, which were put to roast in the wood embers; rashers of +bacon and mutton chops spluttered and fizzed side-by-side on a monster +gridiron with tall feet, so as to allow it to stand by itself over the +clear fire, and we turned our chops from time to time by means of a fork +extemporized out of a pronged stick. + +Over another fire, a little way to leeward, hung the bushmen's kettle on +an iron tripod, and, so soon as it boiled, my little teapot was filled +before Domville threw in his great fist-full of tea. I had brought a +tiny phial of cream in the pocket of my saddle, but the men thought it +spoiled the flavour of the tea, which they always drink "_neat_," +as they call it. The Temperance Society could draw many interesting +statistics from the amount of hard work which is done in New Zealand on +tea. Now, I am sorry to say, beer is creeping up to the stations, and is +served out at shearing time and so on; but in the old days all the hard +work used to be done on tea, and tea alone, the men always declaring +they worked far better on it than on beer. "When we have as much good +bread and mutton as we can eat," they would say, "we don't feel to miss +the beer we used to drink in England;" and at the end of a year or +two of tea and water-drinking, their bright eyes and splendid physical +condition showed plainly enough which was the best kind of beverage to +work, and work hard too, upon. + +So there we sat round the fire: F---- with the men, and I, a little way +off, out of the smoke, with the dogs. Overhead, the sunlight streamed +down on the grass which had sprung up, as it always does in a clearing; +the rustle among the lofty tree tops made a delicious murmur high up in +the air; a waft of cool breeze flitted past us laden with the scent +of newly-cut wood (and who does not know that nice, _clean_ perfume?); +innumerable paroquets almost brushed us with their emerald-green wings, +whilst the tamer robin or the dingy but melodious bell-bird came near +to watch the intruders. The sweet clear whistle of the tui or +parson-bird--so called from his glossy black suit and white wattles +curling exactly where a clergy-man's bands would be,--could be heard at +a distance; whilst overhead the soft cooing of the wild pigeons, and +the hoarse croak of the ka-ka or native parrot, made up the music of +the birds' orchestra. Ah, how delicious it all was,--the Robinson Crusoe +feel of the whole thing; the heavenly air, the fluttering leaves, the +birds' chirrups and whistle, and the foreground of happy, healthy men! + +Rose and I had enough to do, even with Nettle's assistance, in acting as +police to keep off those bold thieves, the wekas, who are as impudent as +they are tame and fearless. In appearance they resemble exactly a stout +hen pheasant, without its long tail; but they belong to the apterix +family, and have no wings, only a tiny useless pinion at each shoulder, +furnished with a claw like a small fish-hook: what is the use of this +claw I was never able to discover. When startled or hunted, the weka +glides, for it can scarcely be called running, with incredible swiftness +and in perfect silence, to the nearest cover. A tussock, a clump of +flax, a tuft of tall tohi grass, all serve as hiding-places; and, +wingless as she is, the weka can hold her own very well against her +enemies, the dogs. I really believe the great desire of Brisk's life was +to catch a weka. He started many, but used to go sniffing and barking +round the flax bush where it had taken refuge at first, long after +the clever, cunning bird had glided from its shelter to another cover +further off. + +After dinner was over and Domville had brought back the tin plates +and pannikins from the creek where he had washed them up, pipes were +lighted, and a few minutes smoking served to rest and refresh the men, +who had been working since their six o'clock breakfast. The daylight +hours were too precious however to be wasted in smoking. Trew and +Domville would not have had that comfortable nest-egg standing in their +name at the bank in Christchurch, if they had spent much time over their +pipes; so after a very short "spell" they got up from the fallen log of +wood which had served them for a bench, and suggested that F---- should +accompany them back to where their work lay. "You don't mind being +left?" asked F----. "Certainly not," replied I. "I have got the dogs +for company, and a book in my pocket. I daresay I shall not read much, +however, for it is so beautiful to sit here and watch the changing +lights and shadows." + +And so it was, most beautiful and thoroughly delightful. I sat on the +short sweet grass, which springs upon the rich loam of fallen leaves the +moment sunlight is admitted into the heart of a bush. No one plants it; +probably the birds carry the seeds; yet it grows freely after a clearing +has been made. Nature lays down a green sward directly on the rich +virgin mould, and sets to work besides to cover up the unsightly stems +and holes of the fallen timber with luxuriant tufts of a species of +hart's-tongue fern, which grows almost as freely as an orchid on decayed +timber. I was so still and silent that innumerable forest birds came +about me. A wood pigeon alighted on a branch close by, and sat preening +her radiant plumage in a bath of golden sunlight. The profound stillness +was stirred now and then by a soft sighing breeze which passed over the +tree tops, and made the delicate foliage of the undergrowth around me +quiver and rustle. I had purposely scattered the remains of our meal in +a spot where the birds could see the crumbs, and it was not long before +the clever little creatures availed themselves of the unexpected feast. +So perfectly tame and friendly were they, that I felt as if I were +the intruder, and bound by all the laws of aerial chivalry to keep the +peace. But this was no easy matter where Rose and Nettle were concerned, +for when an imprudent weka appeared on the sylvan scene, looking +around-as if to say, "Who's afraid?" it was more than I could do to keep +the little terriers from giving chase. Brisk, too, blundered after them, +but I had no fear of his destroying the charm of the day by taking even +a weka's life. + +Thus the delicious afternoon wore on, until it was time to boil the +kettle once more, and make a cup of tea before setting out homewards. +The lengthening shadows added fresh tenderness and beauty to the +peaceful scene, and the sky began to paint itself in its exquisite +sunset hues. It has been usual to praise the tints of tropic skies when +the day is declining; but never, in any of my wanderings to East and +West Indies, have I seen such gorgeous evening colours as those which +glorify New Zealand skies. + +A loud coo-ee summoned F---- to tea, and directly afterwards the horses +were re-saddled, the now empty flax basket filled with the obnoxious +teapot and cup, wrapped in many layers of flax leaves, to prevent their +rattling, and we bade good night to the tired bushmen. We left them at +their tea, and I was much struck to observe that though they looked like +men who had done a hard day's work, there was none of the exhaustion we +often see in England depicted on the labouring man's face. Instead of +a hot crowded room, these bushmen were going to sleep in their log hut, +where the fresh pure air could circulate through every nook and cranny. +They had each their pair of red blankets, one to spread over a heap of +freshly cut tussocks, which formed a delicious elastic mattrass, and the +other to serve as a coverlet. During the day these blankets were always +hung outside on a tree, out of the reach of the most investigating weka. +You may be sure I had not come empty-handed in the way of books and +papers, and my last glance as I rode away rested on Trew opening a +number of _Good Words_ [Note: _Evening Hours_ was not in existence at +that time, or else its pages are just what those simple God-fearing men +would have appreciated and enjoyed. _Good Words_ and the _Leisure Hour_ +used to be their favourite periodicals, and the kindness of English +friends kept me also well supplied with copies of Miss Marsh's little +books, which were read with the deepest and most eager interest.] with +the pleased-expression of a child examining a packet of toys. + +And so we rode slowly home through the delicious gloaming, with the +evening air cooled to freshness so soon as the sun had sunk below the +great mountains to the west, from behind which he shot up glorious rays +of gold and crimson against the blue ethereal sky, causing the snowy +peaks to look more exquisitely pure from the background of gorgeous +colour. During the flood of sunlight all day, we had not perceived a +single fleck of cloud; but now lovely pink wreaths, floating in mid-air, +betrayed that here and there a "nursling of the sky" lingered behind the +cloud-masses which we thought had all been blown away yesterday. + +The short twilight hour was over, and the stars were filtering their +soft radiance on our heads by the time we heard the welcoming barks +of the homestead, and saw the glimmer of the lighted lamp in our +sitting-room, shining out of the distant gloom. And so ended, in supper +and a night of deep dreamless sleep, one of the many happy picnic days +of my New Zealand life. + + + +Chapter II: Eel-fishing. + + +One of the greatest drawbacks in an English gentleman's eyes to living +in New Zealand is the want of sport. There is absolutely none. There +used to be a few quails, but they are almost extinct now; and during +four years' residence in very sequestered regions I only saw one. Wild +ducks abound on some of the rivers, but they are becoming fewer and +shyer every year. The beautiful Paradise duck is gradually retreating to +those inland lakes lying at the foot of the Southern Alps, amid glaciers +and boulders which serve as a barrier to keep back his ruthless foe. +Even the heron, once so plentiful on the lowland rivers, is now seldom +seen. As I write these lines a remorseful recollection comes back upon +me of overhanging cliffs, and of a bend in a swirling river, on +whose rapid current a beautiful wounded heron--its right wing +shattered--drifts helplessly round and round with the eddying water, +each circle bringing it nearer in-shore to our feet. I can see now its +bright fearless eye, full of suffering, but yet unconquered: its slender +neck proudly arched, and bearing up the small graceful head with its +coronal or top-knot raised in defiance, as if to protest to the last +against the cruel shot which had just been fired. I was but a spectator, +having merely wandered that far to look at my eel-lines, yet I felt as +guilty as though my hand had pulled the trigger. Just as the noble bird +drifted to our feet,--for I could not help going down to the river's +edge, where Pepper (our head shepherd) stood, looking very contrite,--it +reared itself half out of the water, with a hissing noise and +threatening bill, resolved to sell its liberty as dearly as it could; +but the effort only spread a brighter shade of crimson on the waters +surface for a brief moment, and then, with glazing eye and drooping +crest, the dying creature turned over on its side and was borne helpless +to our feet. By the time Pepper extended his arm and drew it in, with +the quaint apology, "I'm sorry I shot yer, old feller! I, am, indeed," +the heron was dead; and that happened to be the only one I ever came +across during my mountain life. Once I saw some beautiful red-shanks +flying down the gorge of the Selwyn, and F---- nearly broke his neck in +climbing the crag from whence one of them rose in alarm at the noise +of our horses' feet on the shingle. There were three eggs in the +inaccessible cliff-nest, and he brought me one, which I tried in vain to +hatch under a sitting duck. Betty would not admit the intruder among her +own eggs, but resolutely pushed it out of her nest twenty times a day, +until at last I was obliged to blow it and send it home to figure in a +little boy's collection far away in Kent. + +I have seen very good blue duck shooting on the Waimakiriri river, but +50 per cent. of the birds were lost for want of a retriever bold enough +to face that formidable river. Wide as was the beautiful reach, on whose +shore the sportsmen stood, and calmly as the deep stream seemed to glide +beneath its high banks, the wounded birds, flying low on the water, +had hardly dropped when they disappeared, sucked beneath by the strong +current, and whirled past us in less time than it takes one to write a +line. We had retrievers with us who would face the waves of an inland +lake during a nor'-wester,--which is giving a dog very high praise +indeed; but there was no canine Bayard at hand to brave those +treacherous depths, and bring out our game, so the sport soon ceased; +for what was the good of shooting the beautiful, harmless creatures when +we could not make use of them as food? + +I often accompanied F---- on his eel-fishing expeditions, but more for +the sake of companionship than from any amusement I found in the sport. +I may here confess frankly that I cannot understand anyone being an +inveterate eel-fisher, for of all monotonous pursuits, it is the most +self-repeating in its forms. Even the first time I went out I found it +delightful only in anticipation; and this is the one midnight excursion +which I shall attempt to re-produce for you. + +It had been a broiling midsummer day, too hot to sit in the verandah, +too hot to stroll about the garden, or go for a ride, or do anything +in fact, except bask like a lizard in the warm air. New Zealand summer +weather, however high the thermometer, is quite different from either +tropical or English heat. It is intensely hot in the sun, but always +cool in the shade. I never heard of an instance of sun-stroke from +exposure to the mid-day sun, for there always was a light air--often +scarcely perceptible until you were well out in the open,--to temper the +fierce vertical rays. It sometimes happened that I found myself obliged, +either for business or pleasure, to take a long ride in the middle of a +summer's day, and my invariable reflection used to be, "It is not nearly +so hot out of doors as one fancies it would be." Then there is none of +the stuffiness so often an accompaniment to our brief summers, bringing +lassitude and debility in its train. The only disadvantage of an +unusually hot season with us was, that our already embrowned complexions +took a deeper shade of bronze; but as we were all equally sun-burnt +there was no one to throw critical stones. + +What surprised me most was the utter absence of damp or miasma. After a +blazing day, instead of hurrying in out of reach of poisonous vapours as +the tropic-dweller must needs do, we could linger bare-headed, lightly +clad, out of doors, listening to the distant roar of a river, or +watching the exquisite tints of the evening sky. I dwell on this to +explain that in almost any other country there would have been risk in +remaining out at night after such still, hot days. + +On this particular evening, during my first summer in the New Zealand +Malvern Hills, after we had watered my pet flowers near the house, and +speculated a good deal as to whether the mignonette seed had all been +blown out of the ground by the last nor'-wester or not, F---- said, "I +shall go eel-fishing to-night to the creek, down the flat. Why don't you +come too? I am sure you would like it." Now, I am sorry to say that I am +such a thorough gipsy in my tastes that any pursuit which serves as an +excuse for spending hours in the open air, is full of attraction for +me; consequently, I embraced the proposal with ardour, and set about +gathering, under F----'s directions, what seemed to bid fair to rival +the collection of an old rag-and-bottle merchant. First of all, there +was a muster of every empty tin match-box in the little house; these +were to hold the bait-bits of mutton and worms. Then I was desired +to hunt up all the odds and ends of worsted which lurked in the +scrap-basket. A forage next took place in search of string, but as no +parcels were ever delivered in that sequestered valley, twine became +a precious and rare treasure. In default of any large supply being +obtainable, my lamp and candle-wick material was requisitioned by F---- +(who, by the way, is a perfect Uhlan for getting what he wants, when +bent on a sporting expedition); and lastly, one or two empty flour-sacks +were called for. You will see the use of this heterogeneous collection +presently. + +It was of no use starting until the twilight had darkened into a cloudy, +moonless night; so, after our seven o'clock supper, we adjourned into +the verandah to watch F---- make a large round ball, such as children +play with, out of the scraps of worsted with which I had furnished him. +Instead of cutting the wool into lengths, however, it was left in loops; +and I learned that this is done to afford a firm hold for the sharp +needle-like teeth of an inquisitive eel, who might be tempted to find +out if this strange round thing, floating near his hole, would be +good to eat. I was impatient as a child,--remember it was my first +eel-fishing expedition,--and I thought nine o'clock would never come, +for I had been told to go and dress at that hour; that is to say, I was +to change my usual station-costume, a pretty print gown, for a short +linsey skirt, strong boots and kangaroo-skin gaiters. F----, and our +cadet, Mr. U----, soon appeared, clad in shooting coats instead of their +alpaca costumes, and their trousers stuffed into enormous boots, the +upper leathers of which came beyond their knees. + +"Are we going into the water?" I timidly inquired. + +"Oh, no,--not at all: it is on account of the Spaniards." + +No doubt this sounds very unintelligible to an English reader; but every +colonist who may chance to see my pages will shiver at the recollection +of those vegetable defenders of an unexplored region in New Zealand. +Imagine a gigantic artichoke with slender instead of broad leaves, set +round in dense compact order. They vary, of course, in size, but in our +part of the world four or six feet in circumference and a couple of feet +high was the usual growth to which they attained, though at the back of +the run they were much larger. Spaniards grow in clusters, or patches, +among the tussocks on the plains, and constitute a most unpleasant +feature of the vegetation of the country. Their leaves are as firm as +bayonets, and taper at the point to the fineness of a needle, but are +not nearly so easily broken as a needle would be. No horse will face +them, preferring a jump at the cost of any exertion, to the risk of a +stab from the cruel points. The least touch of this green bayonet draws +blood, and a fall _into_ a Spaniard is a thing to be remembered all +one's life. Interspersed with the Spaniards are generally clumps of +"wild Irishman," a straggling sturdy bramble, ready to receive and +scratch you well if you attempt to avoid the Spaniard's weapons. +Especially detrimental to riding habits are wild Irishmen; and there are +fragments of mine, of all sorts of materials and colours, fluttering now +on their thorny branches in out-of-the-way places on our run. It is +not surprising, therefore, that we guarded our legs as well as we could +against these foes to flesh and blood. + +"We are rather early," said the gentlemen, as I appeared, ready and +eager to start; "but perhaps it is all the better to enable you to see +the track." They each flung an empty sack over their shoulders, felt in +their pockets to ascertain whether the matches, hooks, boxes of bait, +etc., were all there, and then we set forth. + +At first it appeared as if we had stepped from the brightness of the +drawing-room into utter and pitchy blackness; but after we had +groped for a few steps down the familiar garden path, our eyes became +accustomed to the subdued light of the soft summer night. Although heavy +banks of cloud,--the general precursors of wind,--were moving slowly +between us and the heavens, the stars shone down through their rifts, +and on the western horizon a faint yellowish tinge told us that daylight +was in no hurry to leave our quiet valley. The mountain streams or +creeks, which water so well the grassy plains among the Malvern Hills, +are not affected to any considerable extent by dry summer weather. They +are snow-fed from the high ranges, and each nor'-wester restores many a +glacier or avalanche to its original form, and sends it flowing down the +steep sides of yonder distant beautiful mountains to join the creeks, +which, like a tangled skein of silver threads, ensure a good water +supply to the New Zealand sheep-farmer. In the holes, under steep +overhanging banks, the eels love to lurk, hiding from the sun's rays in +cool depths, and coming out at night to feed. There are no fish whatever +in the rivers, and I fear that the labours of the Acclimatization +Society will be thrown away until they can persuade the streams +themselves to remain in their beds like more civilised waters. At +present not a month passes that one does not hear of some eccentric +proceeding on the part of either rivers or creeks. Unless the fish are +prepared to shift their liquid quarters at a moment's notice they will +find themselves often left high and dry on the deserted shingle-bed. But +eels are proverbially accustomed to adapt themselves to circumstances, +and a fisherman may always count on getting some if he be patient. + +About a mile down the flat, between very high banks, our principal creek +ran, and to a quiet spot among the flax-bushes we directed our steps. +By the fast-fading light the gentlemen set their lines in very primitive +fashion. On the crumbling, rotten earth the New Zealand flax, the +_Phormium tenax_, loves to grow, and to its long, ribbon-like leaves the +eel-fishers fastened their lines securely, baiting each alternate hook +with mutton and worms. I declared this was too cockney a method of +fishing, and selected a tall slender flax-stick, the stalk of last +year's spike of red honey-filled blossoms, and to this extempore rod I +fastened my line and bait. When one considers that the old whalers were +accustomed to use ropes made in the rudest fashion, from the fibre of +this very plant, in their deep-sea fishing for very big prey, it is +not surprising that we found it sufficiently strong for our purpose. I +picked out, therefore, a comfortable spot,--that is to say, well in the +centre of a young flax-bush, whose satiny leaves made the most elastic +cushions around me; with my flax-stick held out over what was supposed +to be a favourite haunt of the eels, and with Nettle asleep at my feet +and a warm shawl close to my hand, prepared for my vigil. "Don't speak +or move," were the gentlemen's last words: "the eels are all eyes and +ears at this hour; they can almost hear you breathe." Each man then took +up his position a few hundred yards away from me, so that I felt, to all +intents and purposes, absolutely alone. I am "free to confess," as our +American cousins say, that it was a very eerie sensation. It was now +past ten o'clock; the darkness was intense, and the silence as deep as +the darkness. + +Hot as the day had been, the night air felt chill, and a heavy dew +began to fall, showing me the wisdom of substituting woollen for cotton +garments. I could see the dim outlines of the high hills, which shut in +our happy valley on all sides, and the smell of the freshly-turned earth +of a paddock near the house, which was in process of being broken up +for English grass, came stealing towards me on the silent air. The +melancholy cry of a bittern, or the shrill wail of the weka, startled +me from time to time, but there was no other sound to break the eternal +silence. + +As I waited and watched, I thought, as every one must surely think, +with strange paradoxical feelings, of one's own utter insignificance in +creation, mingled with the delightful consciousness of our individual +importance in the eyes of the Maker and Father of all. An atom among +worlds, as one feels, sitting there at such an hour and in such a spot, +still we remember with love and pride, that not a hair of our head falls +to the ground unnoticed by an Infinite Love and an Eternal Providence. +The soul tries to fly into the boundless regions of space and eternity, +and to gaze upon other worlds, and other beings equally the object of +the Great Creator's care; but her mortal wing soon droops and tires, +and she is fain to nestle home again to her Saviour's arms, with the +thought, "I am my Beloved's, and He is mine." That is the only safe +beginning and end of all speculation. It was very solemn and beautiful, +that long dark night,--a pause amid the bustle of every day cares and +duties,--hours in which one takes counsel with one's own heart, and is +still. + +Midnight had come and gone, when the sputter and snap of striking +a match, which sounded almost like a pistol shot amid the profound +silence, told me that one of the sportsmen had been successful. I got +up as softly as possible, wrapped my damp shawl round my still damper +shoulders, and, fastening the flax-stick securely in the ground, stole +along the bank of the creek towards the place where a blazing tussock, +serving as a torch, showed the successful eel-fisher struggling with +his prize. Through the gloom I saw another weird-looking figure running +silently in the same direction; for the fact was, we were all so cramped +and cold, and, weary of sitting waiting for bites which never came, that +we hailed with delight a break in the monotony of our watch. It did +not matter now how much noise we made (within moderate limits), for +the peace of that portion of the creek was destroyed for the night. +Half-a-dozen eels must have banded themselves together, and made a +sudden and furious dash at the worsted ball, which Mr. U---- had been +dangling in front of their mud hall-door for the last two hours. Just as +he had intended, their long sharp teeth became entangled in the worsted +loops, and although he declared some had broken away and escaped, three +or four good-sized ones remained, struggling frantically. + +It would have been almost impossible for one man to lift such a weight +straight out of the water by a string; and as we came up and saw Mr. +U----'s agitated face in the fantastic flickering light of the +blazing tussock, which he had set on fire as a signal of distress, I +involuntarily thought of the old Joe Miller about the Tartar: "Why don't +you let him go?" "Because he has caught _me._" It looked just like that. +The furious splashing in the water below, and Mr. U---- grasping his +line with desperate valour, but being gradually drawn nearer to the +edge of the steep bank each instant. "Keep up a good light, but not too +much," cried F---- to me, in a regular stage-whisper, as he rushed to +the rescue. So I pulled up one tussock after another by its roots,--an +exertion which resulted in upsetting me each time,--and lighted one as +fast as its predecessor burned out. They were all rather damp, so they +did not flare away too quickly. By the blaze of my grassy torches I saw +F----first seize Mr. U---- round the waist and drag him further from +the bank; but the latter called out, "It's my hands,--they have no skin +left: do catch hold, there's a good fellow." So the "good fellow" did +catch hold, but he was too experienced an eel-fisher to try to lift +a couple of dozen pounds weight of eels out of the water by a +perpendicular string; so he tied it to a flax-bush near, and, stooping +down in order to get some leverage over the bank, very soon drew the +ball, with its slimy, wriggling captives, out of the water. Just as +he jerked it far on shore, one or two of the creatures broke loose and +escaped, leaving quite enough to afford a most disgusting and horrible +sight as they were shuffled and poked into the empty flour-sack. + +The sportsmen were delighted however, and departed to a fresh bend of +the creek, leaving me to find my way back to my original post. This +would have been difficult indeed, had not Nettle remained behind to +guard my gloves, which I had left in his custody. As I passed, not +knowing I was so near the spot, the little dog gave a low whimper of +greeting, sufficient to attract my attention and guide me to where he +was keeping his faithful watch and ward. I felt for my flax-stick and +moved it ever so gently. A sudden jerk and splash startled me horribly, +and warned me that I had disturbed an eel who was in the act of supping +off my bait. In the momentary surprise I suppose I let go, for certain +it is that the next instant my flax-stick was rapidly towed down the +stream. + +Instead of feeling provoked or mortified, it was the greatest relief +to know that my eel-fishing was over for the night, and that now I had +nothing to do except "wait till called for." So I took Nettle on my +lap and tried to abide patiently, but I had not been long enough in New +Zealand to have any confidence in the climate, and as I felt how damp my +clothes were, and recollected with horror my West Indian experiences of +the consequences of exposure to night air and heavy dew, my mind _would_ +dwell gloomily on the prospect of a fever, at least. It seemed a long +and weary while before I perceived a figure coming towards me; and I am +afraid I was both cross and cold and sleepy by the time we set our faces +homewards. "I have only caught three," said F----. "How many have you +got?" "None, I am happy to say," I answered peevishly, "What could +Nettle and I have done with the horrible things if we had caught any?" + +The walk, or rather the stumble home, proved to be the worst part of the +expedition. Not a ray of starlight had we to guide us,--nothing but +inky blackness around and over us. We tried to make Nettle go first, +intending to follow his lead, and trusting to his keeping the track; but +Nettle's place was at my heels, and neither coaxing nor scolding would +induce him to forego it. A forlorn hope was nothing to the dangers of +each footstep. First one and then the other volunteered to lead the way, +declaring they could find the track. All this time we were trying to +strike the indistinct road among the tussocks, made by occasional wheels +to our house, but the marks, never very distinct in daylight, became +perfect will-o'-the-wisps at night. If we crossed a sheep-track we +joyfully announced that we had found the way, but only to be undeceived +the next moment by discovering that we were returning to the creek. + +From time to time we fell into and over Spaniards, and what was left of +our clothes and our flesh the wild Irishmen devoured. We must have +got home somehow, or I should not be writing an account of it, at this +moment, but really I hardly know how we reached the house. I recollect +that the next day there was a great demand for gold-beater's skin, and +court-plaster, and that whenever F---- and Mr. U---- had a spare moment +during the ensuing week, they devoted themselves to performing surgical +operations on each other with a needle; and that I felt very subdued and +tired for a day or two. But there was no question of fever or cold, and +I was stared at when I inquired whether it was not dangerous to be out +all night in heavy dew after a broiling day. + +We had the eels made into a pie by our shepherd, who assured me that if +I entrusted them to my cook she would send me up such an oily dish that +I should never be able to endure an eel again. He declared that the +Maoris, who seem to have rather a horror of grease, had taught him how +to cook both eels and wekas in such a way as to eliminate every particle +of fat from both. I had no experience of the latter dish, but he +certainly kept his word about the eels, for they were excellent. + + + +Chapter III: Pig-stalking. + + +It was much too hot in summer to go after wild pigs. That was our +winter's amusement, and very good sport it afforded us, besides the +pleasure of knowing that we were really doing good service to the +pastoral interest, by ridding the hills around us of almost the only +enemies which the sheep have. If the squatter goes to look after his mob +of ewes and lambs in the sheltered slopes at the back of his run, he is +pretty nearly certain to find them attended by an old sow with a dozen +babies at her heels. She will follow the sheep patiently from one +camping ground to another, watching for a new-born and weakly lamb to +linger behind the rest, and then she will seize and devour it. Besides +this danger, the presence of pigs on the run keeps the sheep in an +excited state. They have an uneasy consciousness that their foes are +looking after them, and they move restlessly up and down the hills, not +stopping to feed sufficiently to get fat. If a sheep-farmer thinks his +sheep are not in good condition, one of the first questions he asks +his shepherd is, "Are there any pigs about?" Our run had a good many of +these troublesome visitors on it, especially in the winter, when they +would travel down from the back country to grub up acres on acres of +splendid sheep pasture in search of roots. The only good they do is to +dig up the Spaniards for the sake of their delicious white fibres, and +the fact of their being able to do this will give a better idea of the +toughness of a wild pig's snout than anything else I can say. + +It may be strange to English ears to hear a woman of tolerably peaceful +disposition, and as the advertisements in the _Times_ so often state, +"thoroughly domesticated," aver that she found great pleasure in going +after wild pigs; but the circumstances of the ease must be taken into +consideration before I am condemned. First of all, it seemed terribly +lonely at home if F---- was out with his rifle all day. Next, there was +the temptation to spend those delicious hours of a New Zealand winter's +day, between ten and four, out of doors, wandering over hills and +exploring new gullies. And lastly, I had a firm idea that I was taking +care of F----. And so I was in a certain sense, for if his rifle had +burst, or any accident had happened to him, and he had been unable to +reach the homestead, we should never have known where to find him, and +days would probably have passed before every nook and corner of a run +extending over many thousand acres could have been thoroughly searched. + +I had heard terrible stories of shepherds slipping down and injuring +themselves so that they could not move, and of their dead bodies being +only found after weeks of careful seeking. F---- himself delighted to +terrify me by descriptions of narrow escapes; and, as the pigs had to +be killed, I resolved to follow in the hunter's train. The sport is +conducted exactly like deer stalking, only it is much harder work, and a +huge boar is not so picturesque an object as a stag of many tines, when +you do catch sight of him. There is just the same accurate knowledge +needed of the animal's habits and customs, and the same untiring +patience. It is quite as necessary to be a good shot, for a grey pig +standing under the lee of a boulder of exactly his own colour is a much +more difficult object to hit from the opposite side of a ravine than a +stag; and a wild boar is every whit as keen of scent and sharp of eye +and ear as any antlered "Monarch of the Glen." + +Imagine then a beautiful winter's morning without wind or rain. There +has been perhaps a sharp frost over-night, but after a couple of hours +of sunshine the air is as warm and bright as midsummer. We used to be +glad enough of a wood fire at breakfast; but after that meal had been +eaten we went into the verandah, open to the north-east (our warm +quarter), which made a delicious winter parlour, and basked in the +blazing sunshine. I used often to bring out a chair and a table, and +work and read there all the morning, without either hat or jacket. But +it sometimes happened that once or twice a week, on just such a lovely +morning, F---- would proclaim his intention of going out to look for +pigs, and, sooner than be left behind, I nearly always begged to be +allowed to come too. There was no fear of my getting tired or lagging +behind; and as I was willing to make myself generally useful, by +carrying the telescope, a revolver for close quarters, and eke a few +sandwiches, the offer of my company used to be graciously accepted. We +could seldom procure the loan of a good pig-dog, and after one excursion +with a certain dog of the name of "Pincher," I preferred going out by +ourselves. + + On that occasion F---- did not take his rifle, as there was no +chance of getting a long shot at our game; for the dog would surely +bring the pig to bay, and then the hunter must trust to a revolver or +the colonial boar-spear, half a pair of shears (I suppose it should be +called _a shear_) bound firmly on a flax stick by green flax-leaves. We +had heard of pigs having been seen by our out-station shepherd at the +back of the run, and as we were not encumbered by the heavy rifle, we +mounted our horses and rode as far as we could towards the range where +the pigs had been grubbing up the hill sides in unmolested security for +some time past. Five miles from home the ground became so rough that +our horses could go no further; we therefore jumped off, tied them to +a flax-bush, taking off the saddles in case they broke loose, and +proceeded on foot over the jungly, over-grown saddle. On the other side +we came upon a beautiful gully, with a creek running through it, whose +banks were so densely fringed with scrub that we could not get through +to the stream, which we heard rippling amid the tangled shrubs. If we +could only have reached the water our best plan would have been to get +into it and follow its windings up the ravine; but even Pincher could +hardly squeeze and burrow through the impenetrable fence of matapo and +goi, which were woven together by fibres of a thorny creeper called "a +lawyer" by the shepherds. + + +It was very tantalising, for in less than five minutes we heard trusty +Pincher "speaking" to a boar, and knew that he had baled it up against a +tree, and was calling to us to come and help him. F----ran about like a +lunatic, calling out; "Coming Pincher: round him up, good dog!" and so +forth; but they were all vain promises, for he could not get in. I did +my best in searching for an opening, and gave many false hopes of having +found one. At last I said, "If I run up the mountain side, and look down +on that mass of scrub, perhaps I may see some way into it from above." +"No: do you stay here, and see, if the pig breaks cover, which way +he goes." Up the steep hill, therefore, F---- rushed, as swiftly and +lightly as one of his own mountain sheep; and in a minute or two I +saw him standing, revolver in hand, on an overhanging rock, peering +anxiously down on the leafy mass below. + +Pincher and the creek made such a noise between them that I could not +hear what F---- said, and only guessed from his despairing gestures that +there was no trap door visible in the green roof. I signalled as well as +I could that he was to come down directly, for his-standing-place looked +most insecure. Insecure indeed it proved. As I spoke the great fragment +of rock loosely embedded in earth on the mountain side gave way with a +crash, and came tumbling majestically down on the top of the scrub. +As for F----, he described a series of somersaults in the air, which +however agreeable in themselves, were very trying to the nerves of the +spectatrix below. My first dread was least the rock should crush him, +but to my great joy I saw at once that it was rolling slowly down the +hill, whilst F----'s vigorous bound off it as it gave way, had carried +him well into the middle of the leafy cushion beneath him, where he +presently landed flat on his back! + +I expected every moment to hear the revolver go off, but mercifully it +did not do so; and as his thorny bed was hardly to be endured, F---- +soon kicked himself off it, and before I could realize that he was +unhurt, had scrambled to his feet, and was rushing off, crying in +school-boy glee, "That will fetch him out" That (the rock) certainly did +fetch him (the pig) out in a moment, and Pincher availed himself of the +general confusion to seize hold of his enemy's hind leg, which he never +afterwards let go. The boar kept snapping and champing his great tusks; +but Pincher, even with the leg in his mouth, was too active to be +caught: so as the boar found that it was both futile and undignified +to try to run away with a dog hanging on his hind-quarters, he tried +another plan. Making for a clump of Ti-ti palms he went to bay, and +contrived to take up a very good defensive position. Pincher would have +never given up his mouthful of leg if F---- had not called him off, for +it seemed impossible to fire the revolver whilst the dog held on. This +change of tactics was much against Pincher's judgment, and he kept +rushing furiously in between F---- and the boar. As for me, I prudently +retired behind a big boulder, on which I could climb if the worst came +to the worst, and called out from time to time, to both dog and man, +"Oh, don't!" + +They did not even hear me, for the din of battle was loud. The pig +dodged about so fast, that although F----'s bullets lodged in the palm +tree at his back, not one struck a vulnerable part, and at last F----, +casting his revolver behind him for me to pick up and reload, closed +with his foe, armed only with the shear-spear. Pincher considered +this too dangerous, and rushed in between them to distract the boar's +attention. Just as F---- aimed a thrust at his chest,--for it was of +no use trying to penetrate his hide,--the boar lowered his head, +caught poor faithful Pincher's exposed flank, and tore it open with his +razor-like tusk; but in the meantime the spear had gone well home into +his brawny chest, exactly beneath the left shoulder, and his life-blood +came gushing out. I was so infuriated at the sight of Pincher's +frightful wound that I felt none of my usual pity for the victim; +and rushing up to F---- with the revolver, of which only a couple of +chambers were loaded, thrust it into his hand with an entreaty to "kill +him quickly." This F---- was quite willing to do for his own sake, as +a wounded boar is about the most dangerous beast on earth; and although +the poor brute kept snapping at the broken flax-stick sticking in his +heart, he fired a steady shot which brought the pig on his knees, only +to roll over dead the next moment. + +I cannot help pausing to say that I sewed up Pincher's wound then and +there, with some of the contents of my Cambusmore house-wife; which +always accompanied me on my sporting expeditions, and we carried him +between us down to where the horses were fastened. There I mounted; +and F---- lifting the faithful creature on my lap, we rode slowly home, +dipping our handkerchiefs in cold water at every creek we crossed, and +laying them on his poor flank. He was as patient and brave as possible, +and bore his sufferings and weakness for days afterwards in a way +which was a lesson to one, so grateful and gentle was he. His brave +and sensible behaviour met its due reward in a complete though slow +recovery. + +I have only left myself space for one little sketch more; but it comes +so vividly before me that I cannot shut it out. After a long day's +walking, over the hills and vallies, so beautiful beneath our azure +winter-sky, walking which was delightful as an expedition, but +unsuccessful as to sport, we crossed the track of a large boar. We knew +he was old by his being alone, and it was therefore very certain that he +would show fight if we came up with him. Patiently we followed the track +over a low saddle, through a clump of brushwood menuka, the broken twigs +of which showed how large an animal had just passed by. Here and there a +freshly grubbed-up Spaniard showed where he had paused for a snack; but +at length we dropped down on the river bed, with its wide expanse of +shingle, and there we lost all clue to our game. + +After a little hesitation, F---- decided on climbing a high cliff on +the right bank of the river, and trying to catch a glimpse of him. The +opposite hill-side was gaunt and bare; a southern aspect shut out the +sun in winter, and for all its rich traces of copper ore, "Holkam's +Head" found no favour in the eyes of either shepherds or master. Grass +would not grow there except in summer, and its gray, shingly sides were +an eye-sore to its owner. We sat down on the cliff, and looked around +carefully. Presently F---- said, in a breathless whisper of intense +delight, "I see him." In vain I looked and looked, but nothing could +my stupid eyes discover. "Lie down," said F---- to me, just as if I had +been a dog. I crouched as low as possible, whilst F----settled himself +comfortably flat on his stomach, and prepared to take a careful aim at +the opposite side of the hill. + +After what seemed a long time, he pulled his rifle's trigger, and the +flash and crack was followed apparently by one of the gray boulders +opposite leaping up, and then rolling heavily down the hill. F---- +jumped up in triumph crying, "Come along, and don't forget the +revolver." When we had crossed the river, reckless of getting wet to +our waists in icy-cold water, F---- took the revolver from me and went +first; but, after an instant's examination, he called out, "Dead as a +door-nail! come and look at him." So I came, with great caution, and +a more repulsive and disgusting sight cannot be imagined than the huge +carcass of our victim already stiffening in death. The shot had been a +fortunate one, for only an inch away from the hole the bullet had made +his shoulders were regularly plated with thick horny scales, off which +a revolver bullet would have glanced harmlessly, and he bore marks of +having fought many and many a battle with younger rivals. His huge tusks +were notched and broken, and he had evidently been driven out from +among his fellows as a quarrelsome member of their society. Already the +keen-eyed hawks were hovering above the great monster, and we left him +to his fate in the solitary river gorge, where all was bleak and cold +and gloomy,--a fitting death-place for the fierce old warrior. + + + +Chapter IV: Skating in the back country. + + +I do not believe that even in Canada the skating can be better than that +which was within our reach in the Malvern Hills. Among our sheltered +valleys an sunny slopes the hardest frost only lasted a few hour after +dawn; but twenty-five miles further back, on the border of the glacier +region, the mountain tarns could boast of ice several feet thick all the +winter. We heard rumours of far-inland lakes, across which heavily-laden +bullock-teams could pass in perfect safety for three months of the year, +and we grumbled at the light film over our own large ponds, which would +not bear even my little terrier's weight after mid-day: and yet it was +cold enough at night, during our short bright winters, to satisfy the +most icy-minded person. I think I have mentioned before that the wooden +houses in New Zealand, especially those roughly put together up-country, +are by no means weather-tight. Disagreeable as this may be, it is +doubtless the reason of the extraordinary immunity from colds and +coughs which we hill-dwellers enjoyed. Living between walls formed +by inch-boards over-lapping each other, and which can only be made to +resemble English rooms by being canvassed and papered inside, the pure +fresh air finds its way in on all sides. A hot room in winter is an +impossibility, in spite of drawn curtains and blazing fires, therefore +the risk of sudden changes of temperature is avoided. + +Some such theory as this is absolutely necessary to account for the +wonderfully good health enjoyed by all, in the most capricious and +trying climate I have ever come across. When a strong nor'-wester was +howling down the glen, I have seen the pictures on my drawing-room walls +blowing out to an angle of 45 degrees, although every door and window in +the little low wooden structure had been carefully closed for hours. It +has happened to me more than once, on getting up in the morning, to find +my clothes, which had been laid on a chair beneath my bedroom window +overnight, completely covered by powdered snow, drifting in through the +ill-fitting casement. This same window was within a couple of feet of my +bed, and between me and it was neither curtain nor shelter of any sort. +Of a winter's evening I have often been obliged to wrap myself up in a +big Scotch maud, as I sat, dressed in a high linsey gown, by a blazing +fire, so hard was the frost outside; but by ten o'clock next morning +I would be loitering about the verandah, basking in the sunshine, and +watching the light flecks of cloud-wreaths and veils floating against +an Italian-blue sky. Yet such is the inherent discontent of the human +heart, that instead of rejoicing in this lovely mid-day sunshine, we +actually mourned over the vanished ice which at daylight had been found, +by a much-envied early riser, strong enough to slide on for half an +hour. It seemed almost impossible to believe that any one had been +sliding that morning within a few feet of where I sat working in a blaze +of sunshine, with my pretty grey and pink Australian parrot pluming +itself on the branch of a silver wattle close by, and "Joey," the tiny +monkey from Panama, sitting on the skirt of my gown, with a piece of its +folds arranged by himself shawl-wise over his glossy black shoulders. If +either of these tropical pets had been left out after four o'clock that +sunny day, they, would have been frozen to death before our supper time. + +It was just on such a day as this, and in just such a bright mid-day +hour, that a distant neighbour of ours rode up to the garden gate, +leading a pack horse. Outside the saddle-bags, with which this animal +was somewhat heavily laden, could be plainly seen a beautiful new pair +of Oxford skates, glinting in the sunshine; and it must have been the +sight of these beloved implements which called forth the half-envious +remark from one of the gentlemen, "I suppose you have lots of skating up +at your place?" + +"Well, not exactly at my station, but there is a capital lake ten miles +from my house where I am sure of a good day's skating any time between +June and August," answered Mr. C. H----, our newly arrived guest. + +We all looked at each other. I believe I heaved a deep sigh, and dropped +my thimble, which "Joey" instantly seized, and with a low chirrup +of intense delight, commenced to poke down between the boards of the +verandah. It was too bad of us to give such broad hints by looks if not +by words. Poor Mr. C. H---- was a bachelor in those days: he had not +been at his little out-of-the-way homestead for some weeks, and was +ignorant of its resources in the way of firing (always an important +matter at a station), or even of tea and mutton. He had no +woman-servant, and was totally unprepared for an incursion of skaters; +and yet,--New Zealand fashion,--no sooner did he perceive that we were +all longing and pining for some skating, than he invited us all most +cordially to go up to his back-country run the very next day, with him, +and skate as long as we liked. This was indeed a delightful prospect, +the more especially as it happened to be only Monday, which gave us +plenty of time to be back again by Sunday, for our weekly service. We +made it a rule never to be away from home on that day, lest any of our +distant congregation should ride their twenty miles or so across country +and find us absent. + +When the host is willing and the guests eager, it does not take long to +arrange a plan, so the next morning found three of us, besides Mr. C. +H---- mounted and ready to start directly after breakfast. I have often +been asked how I managed in those days about toilette arrangements, when +it was impossible to carry any luggage except a small "swag," closely +packed in a waterproof case and fastened on the same side as the +saddle-pocket. First of all I must assure my lady readers that I prided +myself on turning out as neat and natty as possible at the end of the +journey, and yet I rode not only in my every-day linsey gown, which +could be made long or short at pleasure, but in my crinoline. This was +artfully looped up on the right side and tied by a ribbon, in such a way +that when I came out ready dressed to mount, no one in the world could +have guessed that I had on any _cage_ beneath my short riding habit with +a loose tweed jacket over the body of the dress. Within the "swag" +was stowed a brush and comb, collar, cuffs and handkerchiefs, a little +necessary linen, a pair of shoes, and perhaps a ribbon for my hair if +I meant to be very smart. On this occasion we all found that our skates +occupied a terribly large proportion both of weight and space in our +modest kits, but still we were much too happy to grumble. + +Where could you find a gayer quartette than started at an easy canter +up the valley that fresh bracing morning? From the very first our faces +were turned to the south-west, and before us rose the magnificent chain +of the Southern Alps, with their bold snowy peaks standing out in +a glorious dazzle against the cobalt sky. A stranger, or colonially +speaking, a "new chum," would have thought we must needs cross that +barrier-range before we could penetrate any distance into the back +country, but we knew of long winding vallies and gullies running up +between the giant slopes, which would lead us, almost without our +knowing how high we had climbed, up to the elevated but sheltered +plateau among the back country ranges where Mr. C. H----'s homestead +stood. There was only one steep saddle to be crossed, and that lay +between us and Rockwood, six miles off. It was the worst part of the +journey for the horses, so we had easy consciences in dismounting and +waiting an hour when we reached that most charming and hospitable of +houses. I had just time for one turn round the beautiful garden, where +the flowers and shrubs of old England grew side by side with the wild +and lovely blossoms of our new island home, when the expected coo-e rang +out shrill and clear from the rose-covered porch. It was but little past +mid-day when we made our second start, and set seriously to work over +fifteen miles of fairly good galloping ground. This distance brought +us well up to the foot of a high range, and the last six miles of the +journey had to be accomplished in single file, and with great care and +discretion, for the track led through bleak desolate vallies, round +the shoulder of abutting spurs, through swamps, and up and down rocky +staircases. Mr. C. H---- and his cob both knew the way well however, +and my bay mare Helen had the cleverest legs and the wisest as well +as prettiest head of her race. If left to herself she seldom made a +mistake, and the few tumbles she and I ever had together, took place +only when she found herself obliged to go my way instead of her own. We +entered the gorges of the high mountains between us and the west, +and soon lost the sun; even the brief winter twilight faded away more +swiftly than usual amid those dark defiles; and it was pitch dark, +though only five o'clock, when we heard a sudden and welcome clamour of +dog voices. + +These deep-mouthed tones invariably constitute the first notes of a +sheep-station's welcome; and a delightful sound it is to the belated and +bewildered traveller, for besides guiding his horse to the right spot, +the noise serves to bring out some one to see who the traveller may be. +On this occasion we heard one man say to the other, "It's the boss:" so +almost before we had time to dismount from our tired horses (remember +they had each carried a heavy "swag" besides their riders), lights +gleamed from the windows of the little house, and a wood fire sparkled +and sputtered on the open hearth. Mr. C. H---- only just guided me +to the door of the sitting-room, making an apology and injunction +together,--"Its very rough I am afraid: but you can do what you +like;"--before he hastened back to assist his guests in settling their +horses comfortably for the night. Labour used to be so dear and wages so +high, especially in the back country of New Zealand, that the couple of +men,--one for indoor work, to saw wood, milk, cook, sweep, _wash_, +etc., and the other to act as gardener, groom, ploughman, and do all +the numerous odd jobs about a place a hundred miles and more from the +nearest shop,--represented a wage-expenditure of at least 200 pounds a +year. Every gentleman therefore as a matter of course sees to his own +horse when he arrives unexpectedly at a station, and I knew I should +have at least half an hour to myself. + +The first thing to do was to let down my crinoline, for I could only +walk like a crab in it when it was fastened up for riding, kilt up my +linsey gown, take off my hat and jacket, and set to work The curtains +must be drawn close, and the chairs moved out from their symmetrical +positions against the wall; then I made an expedition into the kitchen, +and won the heart of the stalwart cook, who was already frying chops +over the fire, by saying in my best German, "I have come to help you +with the tea." Poor man! it was very unfair, for Mr. C. H---- had told +me during our ride that his servitor was a German, and I had employed +the last long hour of the journey in rubbing up my exceedingly +rusty knowledge of that language, and arranging one or two effective +sentences. Poor Karl's surprise and delight knew no bounds, and he burst +forth into a long monologue, to which I could find no readier answers +than smiles and nods, hiding my inability to follow up my brilliant +beginning under the pretence of being very busy. By the time the +gentlemen had stabled and fed the horses and were ready, Karl and I +between us had arranged a bright cosy little apartment with a capital +tea-dinner on the table. After this meal there were pipes and toddy, and +as I could not retire, like Mrs. Micawber at David Copperfield's supper +party, into the adjoining bedroom and sit by myself in the cold, I made +the best of the somewhat dense clouds of smoke with which I was soon +surrounded, and listened to the fragmentary plans for the next day. Then +we all separated for the night, and in two minutes I was fast asleep in +a little room no bigger than the cabin of a ship, with an opossum rug on +a sofa for my bed and bedding. + +It was cold enough the next morning, I assure you: so cold that it was +difficult to believe the statement that all the gentlemen had been down +at daybreak to bathe in the great lake which spread like an inland sea +before the bay-window of the little sitting room. This lake, the largest +of the mountain chain, never freezes, on account partly of its great +depth, and also because of its sunny aspect. Our destination lay far +inland, and if we meant to have a good long day's skating we must start +at once. Such a perfect day as it was! I felt half inclined to beg off +the first day on the ice, and to spend my morning wandering along the +rata-fringed shores of Lake Coleridge, with its glorious enclosing +of hills which might fairly be called mountains; but I feared to seem +capricious or lazy, when really my only difficulty was in selecting +a pleasure. The sun had climbed well over the high barriers which lay +eastwards, and was shining brightly down through the quivering blue +ether overhead; the frost sparkled on every broad flax-blade or slender +tussock-spine, as if the silver side of earth were turned outwards that +winter morning. + +No sooner had we mounted (with no "swag" except our skates this time) +than Mr. C. H---- set spurs to his horse, and bounded over the slip-rail +of the paddock before Karl could get it down. We were too primitive +for gates in those parts: they only belonged to the civilization nearer +Christchurch; and I had much ado to prevent my pony from following his +lead, especially as the other gentlemen were only too delighted to get +rid of some of their high spirits by a jump. However Karl got the +top rail down for me, and "Mouse" hopped over the lower one gaily, +overtaking the leader of the expedition in a very few strides. We could +not keep up our rapid pace long; for the ground became terribly broken +and cut up by swamps, quicksands, blind creeks, and all sorts of snares +and pit-falls. Every moment added to the desolate grandeur of the scene. +Bleak hills rose up on either hand, with still bleaker and higher peaks +appearing beyond them again. An awful silence, unbroken by the familiar +cheerful sound of the sheep calling to each other,--for even the hardy +merino cannot live in these ranges during the winter months,--brooded +around us, and the dark mass of a splendid "bush," extending over many +hundred acres, only added to the lonely grandeur of the scene. We rode +almost the whole time in a deep cold shade, for between us and the warm +sun-rays were such lofty mountains that it was only for a few brief +noontide moments he could peep over their steep sides. + +After two hour's riding, at the best pace which we could keep up through +these terrible gorges, a sharp turn of the track brought us full in view +of our destination. I can never forget that first glimpse of Lake Ida. +In the cleft of a huge, gaunt, bare hill, divided as if by a giant hand, +lay a large _black_ sheet of ice. No ray of sunshine ever struck it from +autumn until spring, and it seemed impossible to imagine our venturing +to skate merrily in such a sombre looking spot. But New-Zealand sheep +farmers are not sentimental I am afraid. Beyond a rapid thought of +self-congratulation that such "cold country" was not on _their_ run, +they did not feel affected by its eternal silence and gloom. The ice +would bear, and what more could skater's heart desire? At the end of the +dark tarn, nearest to the track by which we had approached it, stood a +neat little hut; and judge of my amazement when, as we rode up to it, +a young gentleman, looking as if he was just going out for a day's +deer-stalking, opened the low door and came out to greet us. Yes, here +was one of those strange anomalies peculiar to the colonies. A young +man, fresh from his University, of refined tastes and cultivated +intellect, was leading here the life of a boor, without companionship +or appreciation of any sort. His "mate" seemed to be a rough West +countryman, honest and well meaning enough, but utterly unsuited to Mr. +K----. It was the old story, of wild unpractical ideas hastily carried +out. Mr. K---- had arrived in New Zealand a couple of years before, with +all his worldly wealth,--1,000 pounds. Finding this would not go very +far in the purchase of a good sheep-run, and hearing some calculations +about the profit to be derived from breeding cattle, based upon +somebody's lucky speculation, he eagerly caught at one of the many +offers showered upon unfortunate "new chums," and bought the worst and +bleakest bit of one of the worst and bleakest runs in the province. The +remainder of his money was laid out in purchasing stock; and now he had +sat down patiently to await, in his little hut, until such time as his +brilliant expectations would be realized. I may say here they became +fainter and fainter year by year, and at last faded away altogether; +leaving him at the end of three lonely, dreadful years with exactly half +his capital, but double his experience. However this has nothing to do +with my story, except that I can never think of our skating expedition +to that lonely lake, far back among those terrible hills, without a +thrill of compassion for the only living human being, who dwelt among +them. + +It was too cold to dawdle about, however, that day. The frost lay white +and hard upon the ground, and we felt that we were cruel in leaving our +poor horses standing to get chilled whilst we amused ourselves. Although +my beloved Helen was not there, having been exchanged for the day in +favour of Master Mouse, a shaggy pony, whose paces were as rough as +its coat, I begged a red blanket from Mr. K----, and covered up Helen's +stable companion, whose sleek skin spoke of a milder temperature than +that on Lake Ida's "gloomy shore." Our simple arrangements were +soon made. Mr. K---- left directions to his mate to prepare a repast +consisting of tea, bread, and mutton for us, and, each carrying our +skates, we made the best of our way across the frozen tussocks to the +lake. Mr. K---- proved an admirable guide over its surface, for he was +in the habit during the winter of getting all his firewood out of the +opposite "bush," and bringing it across the lake on sledges drawn by +bullocks. We accused him of having cut up our ice dreadfully by these +means; but he took us to a part of the vast expanse where an unbroken +field of at least ten acres of ice stretched smoothly before us. Here +were no boards marked "DANGEROUS," nor any intimation of the depth of +water beneath. The most timid person could feel no apprehension on ice +which seemed more solid than the earth; so accordingly in a few moments +we had buckled and strapped on our skates, and were skimming and +gliding--and I must add, falling--in all directions. We were very much +out of practice at first, except Mr. K----, who skated every day, taking +short cuts across the lake to track a stray heifer or explore a blind +gully. + +I despair of making my readers see the scene as I saw it, or of +conveying any adequate idea of the intense, the appalling loneliness of +the spot. It really seemed to me as if our voices and laughter, so +far from breaking the deep eternal silence, only brought it out into +stronger relief. On either hand rose up, shear from the waters edge, a +great, barren, shingly mountain; before us loomed a dark pine forest, +whose black shadows crept up until they merged in the deep _crevasses_ +and fissures of the Snowy Range. Behind us stretched the winding gullies +by which we had climbed to this mountain tarn, and Mr. K----'s little +hut and scrap of a garden and paddock gave the one touch of life, or +possibility of life, to this desolate region. In spite of all scenic +wet blankets we tried hard to be gay, and no one but myself would +acknowledge that we found the lonely grandeur of our "rink" too much for +us. We skated away perseveringly until we were both tired and hungry, +when we returned to Mr. K----'s hut, took a hasty meal, and mounted our +chilled steeds. Mr. C. H---- insisted on bringing poor Mr. K---- back +with us, though he was somewhat reluctant to come, alleging that a +few days spent in the society of his kind made the solitude of his +weather-board hut all the more dreary. The next day and yet the next +we returned to our gloomy skating ground, and when I turned round in my +saddle as we rode away on Friday evening, for a last look at Lake Ida +lying behind us in her winter black numbness, her aspect seemed more +forbidding than ever, for only the bare steep hill-sides could be seen; +the pine forest and white distant mountains were all blotted and blurred +out of sight by a heavy pall of cloud creeping slowly up. + +"Let us ride fast," cried Mr. K----, "or we shall have a sou'-wester +upon us;" so we galloped home as quickly as we could, over ground that +I don't really believe I could summon courage to walk across, ever so +slowly, to-day,--but then one's nerves and courage are in very different +order out in New Zealand to the low standard which rules for ladies in +England, who "live at home in ease!" Long before we reached home the +storm was pelting us: my little jacket was like a white board when I +took it off, for the sleet and snow had frozen as it fell. I was wet +to the skin, and so numb with cold I could hardly stand when we reached +home at last in the dark and down-pour. I could only get my things very +imperfectly dried, and had to manage as best I could, but yet no one +even thought of making the inquiry next morning when I came out to +breakfast, "Have you caught cold?" It would have seemed a ridiculous +question. + + + +Chapter V: Toboggon-ing. + +I cannot resist the temptation to touch upon one of the winter +amusements which came to us two years later. Yet the word "amusement" +seems out of place, no one in the Province having much heart to amuse +themselves, for the great snow storm of August, 1867, had just taken +place, and we were in the first days of bewilderment at the calamity +which had befallen us all. A week's incessant snow-fall, accompanied by +a fierce and freezing south-west wind, had not only covered the whole of +the mountains from base to brow with shining white, through which not +a single dark rock jutted, but had drifted on the plains for many feet +deep. Gullies had been filled up by the soft, driving flakes, creeks +were bridged over, and for three weeks and more all communication +between the stations and the various townships was cut off. The +full extent of our losses was unknown to us, and dreary as were our +forebodings of misfortune, none of us guessed that snow to be the +winding sheet of half a million of sheep. The magnificent semi-circle of +the Southern Alps stood out, for a hundred miles from north to south, +in appalling white distinctness, and no one in the whole Colony had ever +seen the splendid range thus free from fleck or flaw. We had done all +we could within working distance, but what was, the use of digging in +drifts thirty feet deep? Amidst, and almost above, the terrible anxiety +about our own individual safety,--for the snow was over the roof of +many of the station-houses,--came the pressing question, "Where are the +sheep?" A profound silence unbroken by bleat of lamb, or bark of dog, +or any sound of life, had reigned for many days, when a merciful +north-westerly gale sprung, up, and releasing the heavily-laden earth +from its white bondage, freed the miserable remnant of our flocks and +herds. At least, I should say, it freed those sheep which had travelled +down to the vallies, driven before the first pitiless gusts, but we +knew that many hundreds, if not thousands, of wethers must have been +surprised and imprisoned far back among the hills. + +Such knowledge could not be acted upon, however, for no human being +could hope to plunge through the drifts around us. Old shepherds who +had lived on the run for fifteen years, confessed that they did not know +their way fifty yards from the homestead. The vallies were filled up, +so that one gully looked precisely like its fellow; rocks, scrub, Ti-ti +palms, all our local land-marks had disappeared; not a fence or gate +could be seen in all the country side. Here and there a long wave-like +line in the smooth mass would lead us to suppose that a wire fence lay +buried beneath its curves, but we had no means of knowing for certain. +Near the house every shrub and out-building, every hay-stack or +wood-heap, had all been covered up, and no man might even guess where +they lay. + +This had been the terrible state of things, and although the blessed +warm wind had removed our immediate and pressing fear of starvation, we +could not hope to employ ourselves in searching for our missing sheep +for many days to come. None of us had been able to take any exercise for +more than a fortnight, and having done all that could possibly be done +near at hand, F---- set to work to manufacture some sledges out of old +packing-cases. Quite close to the house, a hill sloped smoothly for +about 300 yards, at an angle of 40 degrees; along its side lay a +perfectly level and deep drift, which did not show any signs of +thawing for more than a month, and we resolved to use this as a natural +_Montagne Russe_. The construction of a suitable sledge was the first +difficulty to be surmounted, and many were the dismal failures and +break-neck catastrophes which preceded what we considered a safe and +successful vehicle. Not only was it immensely difficult to make, without +either proper materials or tools, a sledge which could hold two people +(for F---- declared it was no fun sleighing alone), but his "patent +brakes" proved the most broken of reeds to lean upon when the sledge was +dashing down the steep incline at the rate of a thousand miles an hour. + +We nearly broke our necks more than once, and I look back now with +amazement to our fool-hardiness. How well I remember one expedition, +when F----, who had been hammering away in a shed all the morning, came +to find me sitting in the sun in the verandah, and to inform me that +at last he had perfected a conveyance which would combine speed with +safety. Undaunted by previous mishaps, I sallied forth, and in company +with Mr. U---- and F----, climbed painfully up the high hill I have +mentioned, by some steps which they had cut in the frozen snow. Without +some such help we could not have kept our footing for a moment, and as +long as I live I shall never forget the sensation of leaving my friendly +Alpenstock planted in the snow, and of seating myself on that frail +sledge. Perhaps I ought to describe it here. A board, about six feet +long by one foot broad, with sheet-iron nailed beneath it, and curved +upwards in front; on its upper surface a couple of battens were fixed, +one quite at the foremost end, and one half-way. That was F----'s new +patent sledge, warranted to go faster down an incline than any other +conveyance on the surface of the earth. I was the wretched "passenger," +as he called me, on more than one occasion, and I will briefly describe +my experiences. "Why did you go?" is a very natural question to arise in +my reader's mind; and sitting here at my writing-table, I feel as if I +must have been a lunatic to venture. But in those delicious wild days, +no enterprise seemed too rash or dangerous to engage in, from mounting +a horse which had never seen or felt the fluttering of a habit, to +embarking on the conveyance I have described above, and starting down a +mountain-side at the risk of a broken neck. + +Well, to return to that terrible moment. I see the whole scene now. The +frail, rude sledge, with its breaks made out of a couple of standards +from a wire fence, connected by a strong iron chain; F----seated at the +back of the precious contrivance, firmly grasping a standard in each +hand; Mr. U---- clinging desperately to his Alpen-stock with one hand, +whilst with the other he helps me on to the board; and Nettle, my dear +little terrier, standing shivering on three legs, sniffing distrustfully +at the sledge. It is extremely difficult even to take one's place on +a board a dozen inches wide. My petticoats have to be firmly wrapped +around me, and care taken that no fold projects beyond the sledge, or +I should be soon dragged out of my frail seat. I fix my feet firmly +against the batten, and F---- cries, "Are you ready?" "Oh, not yet!" +I gasp, clinging to Mr. U----'s hand as if I never meant to let it go. +"Hold tight!" he shouts. Now what a mockery this injunction was. I +had nothing to hold on to except my own knees, and I clasped them +convulsively. Mr. U---- says, "You're all right now," and before I can +realize that he has let go my hand, before my courage is half-way up to +the necessary height, we are off. The breaks are slightly depressed for +the first few yards, in order to regulate our pace, and because there +is a tremendously steep pitch just at first. Once we have safely passed +that he tilts up the standards, and our sledge shoots like a meteor down +the perfectly smooth incline. I cannot draw my breath, we are going at +such a pace through the keen air; I give myself up for lost. We come to +another steep pitch near the bottom of the hill; F---- is laughing to +such a degree at me that he does not put down his breaks soon enough, +and loses control of the sledge. We appear to leap down the dip, and +then the sledge turns first one way and then the other, its zinc prow +being sometimes up-hill and some-times down. It seems wonderful that +we keep on the sledge, for we have no means of holding on except by +pressing our feet against the battens; yet in the grand and final upset +at the bottom of the hill, the sledge is there too, and we find we have +never parted company from it. + +Will any one believe that after such a perilous journey, I could +actually be persuaded to try again? But so it was. At first the fright +(for I was really terrified) used to make me very cross, and I declared +that I was severely hurt, if not "kilt entirely;" but after I had shaken +the snow out of my linsey skirt, and discovered that beyond the damage +to my nerves I was uninjured, F---- was quite sure to try to persuade +me to make another attempt, and I was equally sure to yield to the +temptation. As well as my memory serves me, we only made one really +successful journey, and that was on an occasion when we kept the breaks +down the whole way. But I never could insure similar precautions being +taken again, and we consequently experienced every variety of mishaps +possible to sledge travellers. I persevered however for some days until +the north-westerly wind, which was blowing softly all the time, began to +lay bare the sharpest points of the rocks, and then I gave in at once, +and would not be a "passenger" any more. It was rather too much to +strike one's head against a jagged fragment of rock, or to dislocate +one's thumb against a concealed stump of a palm tree. Then the sharp +points of the Spaniards began to stick up through the softening snow, +and nothing would induce me to run the risk of touching their green +bayonets. Besides which, the fast-thawing snow made it very difficult +to climb up to the top of our hill, for the carefully-cut steps had +disappeared long ago. So I gave up sledge journeys on my own account, +and used only to look at F---- and Mr. U---- taking them. + +These two persevered so long as an inch of snow remained on the +hill-side. Some of their adventures were very alarming, and certainly +rather dangerous. One afternoon I had been watching them for more than +an hour, and had seen them go through every variety of disaster, and +capsize with no further effect than increasing their desire for "one +more" trial. On the blind-side of the hill,--that is to say the side +which gets scarcely any sun in winter,--a deep drift of snow still +lingered, filling up a furrow made in former years by a shingle-slip. +Thither the two adventurous climbers dragged their sledge, and down +the steep incline they performed their perilous descent many a time. I +became tired of watching the board shoot swiftly over the white streak; +and I strolled round the shoulder of the hill, to see if there was any +appearance of the snow-fall lessening in the back country. + +I must have been away about half an hour, and had made the circuit of +the little knoll which projected from the mountain side, returning to +where I expected to find sleigh and sleighers starting perhaps on just +"one more" journey. But no one was there, and a dozen yards or so from +the usual starting-point, the snow was a good deal ploughed up and +stained in large patches by blood. Here was an alarming spectacle, +though the only wonder was that a bad accident had not occurred before. +I saw the sledge, deserted and broken, near the end of the drift: of the +passengers there was neither sign nor token. I must say I was terribly +frightened, but it is useless in New Zealand to scream or faint; the +only thing to do in an emergency is to _coo-e_; and so, although my +heart was thumping loudly in my ears, and at first I could not produce a +sound, I managed at last, after many attempts, to muster up a loud clear +_coo-e_. There was the usual pause, whilst the last sharp note rang +back from the hill-sides, and vibrated through the clear silent air; +and then, oh, welcome sound! I heard a vigorous answer from our own flat +where the homestead stood. I set off down-hill as fast as I could, and +had the joy, when I turned the slope which had hidden our little house +from my view, to see F---- and Mr. U---- walking about; but even from +that distance I could see that poor Mr. U----'s head was bandaged up, +and as soon as I got near enough to hear, F----shouted "I have broken my +neck!" adding, "I am very hungry: let us go in to supper." + +Under the circumstances these words were consolatory; and when I came to +hear the story, this was the way the accident happened. As I mentioned +before, even this drift had thawed till it was soft at the surface and +worn away almost to the rocks. During a rapid descent the nose of the +sledge dipped through the snow, and stopped dead against a rock. Mr. +U---- was instantly buried in the snow, falling into a young but prickly +Spaniard, which assaulted him grievously; but F---- shot over his head +some ten yards, turned a somersault, and alit on his feet. This sounds +a harmless performance enough, but it requires practice; and F---- +declared that for weeks afterwards his neck felt twisted. The accident +must have looked very ridiculous: the sledge one moment gliding smoothly +along at the rate of forty miles an hour,--the next a dead stop, and +F----flying through the air over his passenger's head, finishing feet +first plump down in the soft snow. + +Looking back on that time, I can remember how curiously soon the +external traces of the great snow-storm disappeared. For some weeks +after the friendly nor-wester, the air of the whole neighbourhood was +tainted by dead and decaying sheep and lambs; and the wire fences, +stock-yard rails, and every "coign of vantage," had to be made useful +but ghastly by a tapestry of sheep-skins. The only wonder was that a +single sheep had survived a storm severe enough to kill wild pigs. Great +boars, cased in hides an inch thick, had perished through sheer stress +of weather; while thin-skinned animals, with only a few months growth of +fine merino wool on their backs, had endured it all. It was well known +that the actual destruction of sheep was mainly owing to the two days +of heavy rain which succeeded the snow. Out of a flock of 13,000 of all +ages, we lost, on the lowest calculation, 1,000 grown sheep and nearly +3,000 lambs; and yet our loss was small by comparison with that of +our neighbours, whose runs were further back among the hill, and less +sheltered than our own. + +Long before midsummer our cloud-shadowed hills were green once more; and +I think I see again their beautiful outlines, their steep sides planted +with semi-tropical palms and grasses, whilst the more distant peaks are +veiled in a sultry haze. During that peculiarly bright and lovely summer +we often ask each other, Could it have been true that no one knew one +mountain from the other, and that hills had been apparently levelled and +vallies filled up by the heaviest snow-fall ever known. But whilst the +words were on our lips, we could see a group of palm-trees, ten feet +high, with their topmost leaves gnawed to the stump by starving sheep, +that must have been standing on at least seven feet of snow to reach +them; and there was scarcely a creek on the run whose banks were not +strewn, for many a long day, by bare and bleaching bones. + + + +Chapter VI: Buying a run. + + +Like many other people in the world, I have occasionally built castles +in the air, and equally of course they have invariably tumbled down in +due time with a crash This particular castle however, not only attained +to a great elevation in the visionary builder's eyes, but it covered so +vast an area of land, that the story of its rise and fall deserves to +be placed on record, as a warning to aerial architects and also as a +beacon-light to young colonists. + +This was exactly the way it all happened. The new year of 186-found us +living very quietly and happily on a small compact sheep-farm, at the +foot of the Malvern Hills, in the province of Canterbury, New Zealand. +As runs went, its dimensions were small indeed; for we only measured +it at 12,000 acres, all told. The great tidal wave of prosperity, which +sets once in a while towards the shores of all colonies, had that year +swelled and risen to its full force; but this we did not know. Borne +aloft upon its unsubstantial crest we could not, from that giddy height, +discern any water-valleys of adversity or clouds of change and +storm along the shining horizon of the new world around us. All our +calculations were based on the assumption that the existing prices for +sheep, wool, cattle, and all farm-produce, would rule for many a long +day; and the delightful part of this royal road to wealth was, that its +travellers need not exert themselves in any way: they had only to sit +still with folded hands whilst their sheep increased, and it was well +known that a flock doubled itself in three short years. The obvious +deduction from this agreeable numerical fact was, that in an equally +short period your agent's payments to your bank account would also be +doubled. In the meantime the drays were busy carting the wool to the +seaports as fast as they could be loaded, whilst speculative drovers +rode all about the country buying up the fat cattle and wethers from +every run. These were wanted to supply the West Coast Diggings which had +just "broken out" (as the curious phrase goes there), and so was every +description of grain and dairy produce. + +We squatters were not the only inhabitants of this fool's paradise. The +local Government began planning extensive works: railways were laid +out in every direction, bridges planned across rivers, which proved +the despair of engineers; whilst a tunnel, the wonder of the Southern +Hemisphere, was commenced through a range of hills lying between Port +Lyttleton and Christchurch. All this work was undertaken on a scale of +pay which made the poor immigrants who thronged to the place by every +ship, rub their eyes and believe they must be dreaming, and that they +would presently wake up and find themselves back again in the old +country, at the old starvation rate of wages. Small capitalists, with +perhaps only one or two hundred pounds in the world, bid against each +other as purchasers of quarter-acre sections in the fast-springing +townships, or of fifty-acre lots of arable land in the projected +suburbs. Subscriptions were raised for building a Cathedral in +Christchurch; but so dear was both labour and material, that 7,000 +pounds barely sufficed to lay its foundations. + +The paramount anxiety in men's minds seemed to be to secure land. +Sheep-runs in sheltered accessible parts of the country commanded +enormous prices, and were bought in the most complicated way. The first +comers had taken up vast tracts of land in all directions from the +Government, at an almost nominal rental. This had happened quite in +the dark and remote ages of the history of the colony, at least ten +or twelve years before the date of which I write. As speculators with +plenty of hard cash came down from Australia, these original tenants +sold, as it were, the good-will and stock of their run at enormous +prices; but what always seemed to me so hard was, that after you had +paid any number of thousand pounds for your run, you might have to buy +it all, or at any rate, some portion of it, over again. Land could only +be purchased freehold from the Government, for 2 pounds an acre; and if +a "cockatoo" (i.e., a small farmer), or a speculator in mines, fancied +any part of your property, he had only to go to the land office, and +challenge your pre-emptive rights. The officials gave you notice of the +challenge, and six weeks' grace in which to raise the money, and buy it +freehold yourself; but few sheep-farmers could afford to pay a good +many hundred pounds unexpectedly to secure even their best "flats" or +vallies. Hence it often happened that large runs in the most favourable +situations were cut up by small investors, "free selectors" as they are +called in Australia, and it used to be rather absurd the way one grew +to distrust any stranger who was descried riding about the run. The poor +man might be looking for a stray horse, or have lost his way, but we +always fancied he must be "prospecting" for either gold or coals, or +else be a "cockatoo" disguised as a traveller. + +Such was the state of things when my story opens. Shearing was just +over, and we knew to a lamb how rapidly our flocks and herds were +increasing. A succession of mild winters and early genial springs had +got the flock into capital order. The wool had all been sent off to +Christchurch by drays, the sheep were turned out on the beautiful green +hills for ten months of perfect rest and peace; whilst the dogs, who +had barked themselves quite hoarse, were enabled to desist from their +labours in mustering and watching the yet unshorn mobs on the vallies. +Although our run was as well grassed and watered as any in the province, +still it could not possibly carry more than a certain number of sheep, +and to that total our returns showed that we were rapidly approaching. +The most careful calculations warned us that by next shearing we should +hardly know what to do with our sheep. It is always better to be under +than overstocked, for the merino gets out of condition immediately, and +even the staple of the wool deteriorates if its wearer be at all crowded +on his feeding-grounds. + +"You must take up more country directly," was the invariable formula of +the advice we, comparatively "new chums," received on all sides. This +was easier to say than to do. Turn which ever way we would, far back +beyond our own lovely vallies and green hills, back up to the bleak +region of glaciers, where miles of bush and hundreds of acres of steep +hill-side, formed the _back-est_ of "back country," every inch of land +was taken up. No fear had those distant Squatters of "cockatoos," or +even of miners; for no one came their way who could possibly help it. +Still we should have been comparatively glad to buy such a run fifty or +sixty miles further back,--at the foot, in fact of the great Southern +Alps,--just as a summer feeding-ground for the least valuable portion +of our flock. But no one was inclined to part with a single acre, and we +were forced to turn our eyes in a totally different direction. + +If my readers will refer to the accompanying map of New Zealand, and +look at the Middle or South Island, they will notice a long seaboard +on the eastern side of the island, stretching SS.W. for many hundred +leagues. It extends beyond the Province of Canterbury to that of +Otago, and embraces some of the most magnificent pastoral land in the +settlement. Not only is the soil rich and productive, but the climate +is rather less windy than with us in the northern portion of the island; +and the capital of Otago (Dunedin) had risen into comparative position +and importance before Christchurch,--was in short an elder sister of +that pretty little town. Most of the settlers in Otago were Scotchmen, +and as there are no better colonists anywhere, its prosperity had +attained to a very flourishing height. Gold-digging had also broken out +at the foot of the Dunstan range, so that Otago held her head quite as +high, if not higher, than her neighbour Canterbury. Of course all the +first-class pasture-land "down south," as it was called, had been taken +up long before; but we heard rumours of splendid sheep country, yet +unappropriated, far back towards the west coast of Otago, just where its +boundary joined Canterbury. + +With our minds in this state of desire for what poor Mazzini used +to denounce as "territorial aggrandisement," we paid our usual +post-shearing visit to Christchurch. F---- had his agent's accounts to +examine, a nice little surplus of wool-money to receive, and many other +squatting interests to attend to; whilst I had to lay in chests of +tea, barrels of sugar and rice, hundreds of yards of candle-wick, +flower-seeds, reels of cotton, and many other miscellaneous articles. +But through all our pleasant, happy little bustle ran the constant +thought: "What shall we do for more country?" A day or two before +the expiration of the week's leave of absence which we always gave +ourselves, F---- came into my sitting-room at the hotel, flung down his +hat on the table with an air of triumph, and cried, "I've heard of such +a splendid run! One hundred thousand acres of beautiful sheep-country, +and going for a mere song!" Now I had lived long enough in the world +to discover that one sometimes danced on the wrong foot to the tune +of these "mere songs," so I cautiously inquired, "Where is it?" F---- +seemed a little dashed that the only question which he could not answer +favourably should be the first I asked, and he replied vaguely, "Well, +it is rather a long way off, but I am sure we can manage it." A +little more sifting elicited the fact that this "desirable investment" +stretched along the shores of Lake Wanaka, famous for its beautiful +scenery, and was to be had for what certainly seemed a ridiculously +small sum;--only a few hundred pounds. "Of course it has no sheep on +it," added F----; "but that is all the better. I'll burn it this year, +and then turn some cattle on it, and after next shearing we'll have a +good mob of sheep to draft out and stock it." He further added, that +he had invited his man of business and the individual who owned this +magnificent property to dine with us that evening, and that then I +should hear all about it And I may truly say that I _did_ hear about +it, for my brain reeled with figures and calculations. By bedtime I was +wondering if we could possibly spend the enormous fortune which would +be quite certain to accrue to us in a few years if only we could make up +our minds to invest the modest balance at our bankers in this tempting +bargain. I remember well that I found myself wishing we were not going +to be _quite_ so rich; half our promised income would have been ample, I +thought. My anxieties on that score turned out to have been, to say the +least, premature. + +Not to make my story too long, I may briefly say that after making due +allowance for the natural exaggeration of the owner, the run on Lake +Wanaka's shores seemed certainly to offer many attractions. Besides +thousands of acres of beautiful sheltered sheep country, it was said to +possess a magnificent bush, in which sawyers were already hard at work. +Of course all this timber would become our own, and we were to make +so much a year by selling it. "How about the carriage?" inquired F---- +cautiously, having visions of costly bullock-drays, and teams and +drivers at fabulous wages. "Oh, the lake is your highway," replied the +would-be seller, airily; "you have nothing to do but lash your felled +trees together, as they do in the mahogany-growing countries, and set +them afloat on the lake, they will thus form a natural raft, and cost +you little or nothing to get down to a good market. You know the Dunstan +diggings are just at the foot of the lake, and they haven't a stick +there; timber is very badly wanted in those parts, not only for fuel and +building, but also for slabbing the shafts which the miners sink." + +By the time the coffee was served F---- had made up his mind to buy the +Lake Wanaka run; his business agent urging him strongly not to hesitate +for a moment in securing such a chance. The negotiations reached thus +far without the least hitch, but at this point F----said, "Well, I'll +tell you what I'll do: we will start in a day or two and go straight up +to this run and look round it, and if I find it anything like so good as +you both make it out, I'll buy it on the spot." + +Never did that sociable little word "we" sound so delightful to my ears! +"Then I am to come too," I thought to myself, but I prudently concealed +from the company that I had ever had any misgivings on that point. +However, the company did not concern themselves with my doubts +and fears, for our two guests seemed much taken aback at this very +matter-of-fact proposal of F----'s. "That won't do at all, my dear +fellow," said the owner of the run; "I am going to England by the +next mail steamer, which you know sails next week, and the reason I am +literally giving away my property is that I don't want any suspense or +bother. Take it or leave it, just as you like. There's Wilkinson and +Fairwright and a lot of others all clamouring for the refusal of it, +and I've only waited to see if you really wanted it before closing with +Fairwright. He is walking about with a cheque all ready filled up in his +pocket, and only begging and praying me to let him have the run on my +own terms. Why you might be weather-bound or kept there for a month, +and what shall I do then? No, its all just as I've told you, and you can +call it your own to-morrow, but I can't possibly wait for you to go and +look at it." No words of mine can give any idea of the tone of scorn in +which our guest pronounced these last three words; as if looking at an +intended purchase was at once the meanest and most absurd thing in-the +world. F---- seemed half ashamed of himself for his proposal, but still +he urged that he never liked to take a leap in the dark, backing up his +opinion by several world-revered adages. "That's all very fine," chimed +in our precious business adviser," but this transaction can hardly be +said to be in the dark; here are the plans and the Government lease and +the transfer deeds, all regular and ready." With this he produced the +plans, and then it was all up with us. Who does not know the peculiar +_smell_ of tracing-paper, with its suggestions of ownership? When +these fresh and crackling drawings were opened before us they resembled +nothing so much as a veritable paradise. There shone the lake--a +brilliant patch of cobalt blue, bordered by outlines of vivid green +pasture and belts of timber. Here and there, on the outskirts, we read +the words, "proposed township," "building lots," "probable gold fields," +"saw mills." F---- laid his hand down over a large wash of light green +paint and asked," Now what sort of country is this; really and truly, +you know?" "First class sheep country, I give you my word," replied the +owner eagerly, "only wants to be stocked for a year or two." + +Why need I go on? It was the old, old story of misplaced confidence. +Neither F---- nor I could believe that our friends would wilfully +over-reach us, so it was settled that the first thing next morning the +money should be handed over and the Government lease transferred to us. +We decided that as we were so far on the way to our new property, we +would go and look at it before returning to the Malvern Hills, and +the next few days were very busy ones, as we had to arrange our small +domestic affairs, send up the dray, etc., etc. I felt rather anxious at +the postponement of our return home, for I had left several "clutches" +of eggs on the point of being hatched, and I had grave misgivings as to +the care my expected ducklings and chickens would receive at the lands +of my scatter-brained maid servants, to say nothing of the dangers +besetting them from hawks and rats. However, small interests must give +way to great ones, and F---- and I were already tasting the cares of +proprietorship. Our friend, the former owner of our new property, sailed +for England in the mail steamer, in high spirits, saying cordially as he +shook F----'s hand at parting, "Well you _have_ got your fortune cut out +for you, and no mistake; I feel half sorry already to think that I've +parted with that run." About two days after his departure, F---- who had +registered his name at the land office as the present tenant of 100,000 +acres in the Lake Wanaka district, received a polite request from +official quarters to pay up the annual rent, just due, amounting to 100 +pounds or so. We had effected our brilliant negotiations about a week +too soon it seemed, but that was our own fault, so we had nothing to +do but pay the money with as good a grace as possible. I am "free to +confess" that this second cheque ran our banker's account very fine +indeed, but still in those palmy days of the past this was no subject of +uneasiness to a squatter. His credit was almost unlimited, and he could +always raise as much money as he liked on an hypothecation of +next year's wool. But we had not come to that yet. The weather was +delightful; the customary week of heavy rain just after our midsummer +Christmas, had cooled the air and laid the dust, besides bringing out a +fresh spring-like green tint over the willows and poplars, and causing +even the leaves of the gums to lose their leather-like look for a few +days. + +After much consultation we decided to go by coach as far as Timaru, and +then trust to circumstances to decide our future means of transport. Not +only were we obliged to pay a large sum for our places but our luggage +was charged for by the pound, so we found it necessary to reduce our +kit to the most modest dimensions, and only to take what was absolutely +necessary. The journey was a long and weary one, the only variety being +caused by a strong spice of danger at each river. At some streams we +were transferred bodily to a large raft-like ferry boat, and so taken +across. At others the passengers and luggage only were put into the +boat, the lumbering coach with its leathern springs left behind, whilst +the horses swam in our wake across the wide and rushing river, to +be re-harnessed to another coach on the opposite shore. The Rakaia, +Ashburton, and Rangitata had been crossed in this way, and we had +reached the Otaio, a smaller river, when we found a new mode of +transport awaiting us. A large dray with a couple of powerful horses was +in readiness, and into this springless vehicle we were unceremoniously +bundled. The empty coach and horses was driven over at another part of +the stream. I shall never forget the jolting: the river must have been +at least a quarter of a mile wide at that reach, and over its bed of +boulders and rocks we bumped In the middle stretched a long strip of +shingle, which seemed as smooth as turf by contrast with the first +half of the river-bed. When we charged into the water again our driver +removed his pipe from his mouth, looked over his shoulder and remarked, +"River's come down since mornin'; best tuck up your feet, marms all." I +can answer for this "marm" tucking up her feet with great agility, and +not a moment too soon either, for as a light wind was blowing, a playful +wave came rippling over and through the planked floor of the dray, +floating all the smaller parcels about. But no one could speak, we were +so jolted: it literally seemed as if our spines _must_ come through the +crown of our heads, and I expected all my teeth to tumble out. + +In the midst of my fright and suffering, a laugh was jolted out of me +by the absurd behaviour of one of our fellow-passengers. He was what is +called a bush carpenter: i.e., a wandering carpenter, who travels from +station to station, doing any little odd rough jobs wanted. This man had +been working for us some time before, and had often amused me with his +quaint ways. On this occasion he was on his oppressively good behaviour, +and sat quite silent and solemn on the opposite ledge of the dray. +But when for the second time the water came swirling through our rude +conveyance with a force which threatened to upset it altogether, Dale +fumbled in his pocket, as if he were seeking for a life-belt, produced +an enormous pair of green goggle spectacles, which might have made part +of Moses Primrose's purchases at the fair, and adjusting them on his +nose as steadily as he could, said gravely, "This must be looked to!" +He continued to stare at the wash of water during the remainder of our +perilous and rough transit without vouchsafing any explanation of his +meaning, but after we had safely landed he replaced his spectacles, +first in their huge shagreen case, and next in his pocket, with an air +which seemed to say, "The danger is now over: thanks to my precautions." + +Timaru was reached very late, and the best accommodation at the inn +placed at our disposal. Still, in those distant days there was no such +thing as a private sitting room, and we had all to eat our supper in the +same rough-boarded little apartment. But in all my varied wanderings in +different parts of the world, when the accidents of travel have thrown +me for a time among the class whom we foolishly speak of as the lower +orders, I have never yet had to complain of the slightest inconvenience +or disagreeableness from my fellow-travellers. On the contrary, I have +always received the most chivalrous politeness at their hands, and have +noticed how ready they were to forego their usual tastes and habits lest +they should cause me any annoyance. I wonder whether fine gentlemen in +their splendid clubs would be quite so willing to spoil the pleasure of +their evening if any accident were to throw an unwelcome lady amongst +them? At all events, they could not be _more_ self-sacrificing than my +friends in fustian jackets have always proved themselves, and on this +particular evening the landlord of the inn was so amazed at the orders +for tea and coffee instead of the usual "nips" of spirits, that he was +constrained to inquire the reason. A stalwart drover who was sitting +opposite to me at the rude table, murmured from the depths of his +great beard, in an oracular whisper, "The smell of speerits might'nt be +agreeble like to the lady." In vain I protested that I did not mind it +in the least; tea and coffee was the order of the evening, and solemn +silence and good behaviour. No smoking, no songs, no conviviality of +any sort. I would fain have shown my appreciation of their courtesy by +talking to them; but alas, I was one vast ache all over! Although the +road had been a dead level, sixteen hours of jolting and bumping had +reduced me to a limp, black-and-blue creature, with out a word or a +smile. Of course I retired to what was literally a pallet, and a very +hard pallet too, as early as possible, but even after I had vanished +behind the thin wooden partition which formed my bedroom, the greatest +silence and decorum continued to reign among my fellow-travellers. + + + +Chapter VII: "Buying a run."--continued. + + +Early the next morning we all breakfasted together, and then separated +with most polite adieux. We sallied forth to look for a couple of riding +horses. There were none to be hired, so we had to buy two good-looking +nags for 45 pounds a-piece. Now-a-days the same horses would not fetch +more than 10 pounds and I have been told that in Australia you can buy a +horse for a shilling, but ours in New Zealand have never sunk lower +than a couple of pounds, if they had any legs at all. It seemed to the +horse-dealer quite a superfluous question when I timidly inquired if my +horse had ever carried a lady. "No: I can't just say as he has, mum, as +you see there aint no ladies in these parts for him to carry. But," he +added magnanimously, "I'll try him with a blanket fust, if you're at +all oneasy about him." We did not start until the next day, as we had to +hunt up side-saddles, and I had to sew a few yards of grey linsey into +a riding-skirt; but by the following day we were all ready, and our +"swags" packed and strapped to the saddles by nine o'clock. F----'s +horse looked a very nice one in every respect; mine was evidently uneasy +in his mind at the strange shape of his saddle, and I was recommended to +mount outside the little enclosure, on a patch of open ground, where +my steed would not be able to brush me off. The moment I mounted, the +"Hermit" as he was called, made for a dry ditch and tried to lie down, +but a sharp cut from a stock-whip brought him out of it, and then he +laid his ears well back and started for a good gallop, to endeavour to +get rid of his strange rider. However, his head was turned in the right +direction; there were no obstacles in the way, and before he got tired +of his pace we had left Timaru a good many miles behind us. F---- +looked complacently at the "Hermit," and observed, "He'll carry you very +nicely, I think." I could only breathe a sincere hope that he might. + +It was a beautiful day, warm but not oppressive, and delightfully +calm. Our road lay at first along the sea-shore. Ever since we had left +Christchurch the ground had been almost level, and the road consisted +merely of a track cleared from tussocks. On our left extended the vast +strip known as the Ninety-miles Beach, whilst far on our right, between +us and the west coast, the Southern Alps, rose in all their might and +beauty, sometimes lightly veiled by a summer haze, at others cutting our +Italian-blue sky sharp and clear with their grand outlines. Our horses +were a trifle too fat for good condition, and we feared to hurry them +the first day, so we made an early halt at Mahiki, only a twenty +miles stage; but the next day they took us on to Waitaki Ferry, past a +splendid bush, and so into the heart of the hill country. + +Between the ranges, beautiful fertile valleys extended; when I say +fertile, I mean that the soil was excellent, and the land well-grassed. +But there was no cultivation. Not a sod had ever been turned there +since the creation of the world, and the whole country wore the +peculiar yellow tinge caught from the tall waving tussocks, which is the +prevailing feature of New Zealand scenery _au naturel_. Every acre +had been "taken up," but as yet the runs were rather understocked. Our +fourth day's ride was the longest,--fifty-five miles in all, though we +halted for a couple of hours at a miserable accommodation house. +Our bivouac that night was close to Lake Wanaka, at the Molyneux +Ferry-house, and there I was kept awake all night by the attentions of +a cat. I never saw such a ridiculous animal. Prince, for that was his +name, took the greatest fancy to me, or rather to my woollen skirt I +suppose, and found a linsey lap much more comfortable than the corduroy +knees on which he took his usual evening nap. At all events he followed +me into my room, which only boasted of a mattress, stuffed with +tussock-grass by the way, on the floor. Here I should have slept very +well after my long journey, if Prince would have permitted it. In vain +I put him out of the window, not always very gently; he returned in five +minutes, bringing a palpitating, just-caught bird or mouse, which he +softly dropped on my face, and purred loudly with delight at his own +gallantry. Twenty times did I strike a match that night and try to +restore the victims to life; only one recovered sufficiently to be +released, and Prince brought it in again, quite dead, five minutes +later. I shut the little casement window, but the room became so hot and +stuffy, and suspicious fumes of stale beer and tobacco began to assert +their presence, so that I found myself obliged to open it again. +Sometimes the victim's bones were crunched close to my ear, and I found +more than one feather in my hair in the morning. Never was any one so +persecuted by a cat as I was by Prince that weary night. + +The next day we got to a station known as "Johnson's." It was just at +the head of the lake, and as we arrived tolerably early in the forenoon +we embarked, after the usual station dinner of mutton, tea, and damper, +on Lake Wanaka. Alas for those treacherous blue waters! We had only a +little pair-oared boat, in which I took my place as coxwain, and after +pulling for a mile or two under a blazing sun, over short chopping +waves, with a head-wind, we all became so deadly sea-sick that we had to +turn back! As soon as we had rested and recovered, a council of war +was held as to our movements, and we decided, in spite of our recent +experiences, to turn our horses, who had done quite enough for the +present, out on the run, and so make our way down the lake by boat. +Already F---- was beginning to look anxious, for he perceived that, +even after the head of the lake had been reached, the wool would cost an +enormous sum to cart down to either Oamaru or Timaru, from whence alone +it could be shipped. + +The mile or two of the run which lay along the shore of the lake showed +us frightfully rough country. A dense jungle of tussocks and thorny +bushes choked up the feed, and made it impossible to drive any animals +through it, even supposing that good pasturage lay beyond. Still we +hoped that we might be looking at the worst portion of our purchase, and +deter mined to persevere in the attempt to penetrate to the furthest +end of our new property. Accordingly we hired a safe old tub of a boat +which, though too heavy to pull, was warranted to sail steadily, and +with a couple of men, some cold mutton, bread, tea, and sugar, started +valiantly on our cruise. But the "blue, unclouded weather," in which +we had hitherto basked, was at an end for the present. We had already +enjoyed a longer succession of calm days than usually falls to the lot +of the travellers in that windy middle island, and it was now quite time +for the imprisoned "nor'-wester" to have his turn over the surface of +the domain. + +Accordingly the first day's sail was against a light, ominously warm +head-wind, and we only made any way at all by keeping up a complicated +system of tacking. The start had not been an early one, so darkness +found us but little advanced on our voyage, and we passed the night in a +rough shanty, on beds of fern-leaves, wrapped in our red blankets. Tired +as we were, none of us could sleep much. The air was dry and parched; +every now and then a sough of the rising hot gale swept through our +crazy shelter without cooling us, and warned us to prepare for what was +coming. Our only chance of getting on was to make an early start, for +fortunately a true "nor'-wester" is somewhat of a sluggard. The skies +wore their peculiar chrysoprase green tint, except towards the weather +quarter, where heavy banks of lurid cloud showed that the enemy was +collecting in force. Even the hour of dawn, usually so crisp and cool, +brought no sense of refreshment to our languid limbs, and we embarked +with the direst forebodings. A few miles further up the lake we reached +an out-station hut, built by our host Mr. Johnson when he first "took +up" his country and intended to push his boundary as far as this. He +soon drew in his lines however on account of the rough nature of the +ground. The hut was in a most picturesque spot, and although deserted, +remained still in good repair. The little scrap of garden ground was a +tangle of gooseberry and currant bushes among which potatoes flourished +at their own sweet will. + +We had only time to beach the boat, that is to say F---- and the two +men did so, whilst I ran backwards and forwards with the blankets and +provisions, before the hurricane was upon us. Henceforth there was no +stirring out of doors until the gale had blown itself out. We dragged +in some driftwood, barricaded the door, and prepared to pass the time +as well as we could. Oh, the fleas in the hut! The ground was literally +alive with them, and their audacity and appetite was unparalleled. +Our boatmen sat tranquilly by the tiny window and played cribbage +incessantly with very dirty cards and a board made out of a small bar of +soap. As for me, I turned an empty box up on its end, so as to get +out of the way of the fleas, and perched myself on it, finding ample +occupation in defending my position from the attacks of the active +little wretches. Sometimes I felt as if I must rush out into the +lake and drown myself and my tormentors together. It was very bad for +everybody. The poor boatmen doubtless wished to smoke, but were too +polite to do anything of the sort. F---- had nothing whatever to read, +except a torn piece of an old _Times_, at least two years old, which we +had brought to wrap up some of our provisions; whilst I was still more +idle and wretched. Two weary interminable days dragged, or perhaps I +should say, blew, themselves along in this miserable fashion, but at +sundown on the evening of the third day the wind dropped suddenly, and +we did not lose a moment in darting out of our prison and embarking once +more. For the first time since we started we could perceive the grandeur +of the surrounding country; but grand scenery is not necessary nor +indeed desirable in a sheep run. Splendid mountains ran down in steep +spurs to the very shore of the enormous lake. Behind them, piled in +snowy steeps, rose the distant Alps of the Antipodes; great masses of +native bush made dark purple shadows among the clefts of the hills, +whilst the lake rippled in and out of many a graceful bay and quiet +harbour. Not a fleck or film of cloud floated between us and the serene +and darkening sky; a profound, delightful calm brooded over land and +water. Although there was no moon, the stars served us as lights and +compass until two o'clock in the morning, by which time we had reached +the head of the lake (which is thirty-five miles in length), where we +landed, extemporized a tent out of the boat sail, and turned in for a +refreshing flea-less sleep. + +The next day was beautifully still, with a light air from the opposite +point, just sufficient to cool the parched atmosphere; and we made our +way along the head of the lake to a place were a couple of sawyers were +at work. One of them had brought his wife with him, and her welcome to +me was the most touching thing in the world. She took me entirely under +her care, and would hardly let me out of her sight. I must say it was +very nice to be waited on so faithfully, and I gave myself up to +the unaccustomed luxury. All she required of me in exchange for her +incessant toil on my behalf was "news." It did not matter of what kind, +every scrap of intelligence was welcome to her, and she refused to tell +me to what date her "latest advices" extended. During the three days of +our stay in that clearing among the great pines of the Wanaka Bush, +I gave my hostess a complete abridgment of the history of +England--political, social, and moral, beginning from my earliest +recollections. Then we ran over contemporary foreign affairs, dwelt +minutely on every scrap of colonial news, and finally wound up with a +full, true, and particular account of myself and all my relations +and friends. When I paused for breath she would cease her washing and +cooking on my behalf, and say entreatingly, "Go on now, do!" until I +felt quite desperate. + +All this time whilst I was being "interviewed" nearly to death, +F----employed himself in making excursions to different parts of the +run. One of the sawyers lent him a miserable half-starved little pony; +and he penetrated to another sawyer's hut, seven miles distant up the +Matukituki river. But no matter whether he turned his steps to north or +south, east or west, he met with the same disheartening report. There +was the ground indeed, but it was perfectly useless. Not only was there +was _no_ pasturage, but if there had been, the nature of the country +would have rendered it valueless, on account of the way it was +overgrown. It would be tedious to explain more minutely why this was +the case. Sufficient must it be to say that whilst F---- was only too +anxious to keep his eyes shut as to the ground he had alighted on after +his leap in the dark, and the sawyers were equally anxious to induce +settlers to come there, and so bring a market for their labour close to +their hand nothing could make our purchase appear anything except a dead +loss. As for the plans, they were purely imaginary. The blue lake was +about the only part true to nature; and even that should have had a +foot-note to state that it was generally lashed into high, unnavigable +waves, by a chronic nor'-wester. + +No: there was nothing for it but to go home again to the little run +which had seemed such a mere paddock in our eyes, whilst we indulged +in castle-building over 100,000 acres of country. It was of no use +lingering amid such disappointment and discomfort; besides which my +listener, the sawyer's wife, had turned her husband and herself out of +their hut, and were sleeping under a red blanket tent. Poor woman, she +was most anxious to get away; and the lovely sylvan scene, with the tall +trees standing like sentinels over their prostrate brethren, the wealth +of beauteous greenery, springing through fronds of fern and ground +creepers, the bright-winged flight of paroquets and other bush birds, +even the vast expanse of the lake which stretched almost from their +threshold for so many miles, all would have been gladly exchanged for a +dusty high street in any country town-ship. Her last words were, "Can't +you send me a paper or hany thing printed, mam?" I faithfully promised +to do my best, and carried out my share of the bargain by despatching +to her a large packet of miscellaneous periodicals and newspapers; but +whether she ever received them is more than I can say. + +We were afraid of lingering too long, lest another nor'-wester should +become due; and we therefore started as soon as F---- had decided that +it was of no use exploring our wretched purchase any further. We had a +stiff breeze from the north-west all the way down the lake; but as it +was right a-stern it helped us along to such good purpose, that one +day's sailing before it brought us back to Mr. Johnson's homestead +and comparative civilization. The little parlour and the tiny bed-room +beyond, into which I could only get access by climbing through a +window (for the architect had forgotten to put a door), appeared like +apartments in a spacious palace, so great was the contrast between their +snug comfort and the desolate misery of our hut life. Of course nothing +else was talked of except our disappointment at our new run; and +although Mr. Johnson had indulged in forebodings, which were only too +literally fulfilled, he had the good taste never to remind us of his +prophecies. + + "Of all the forms of human woe, + Defend me from that dread, 'I told you so.'" + +After a day's halt and rest we mounted our much refreshed horses, and +set our faces straight across country for Dunedin. This is very easy to +write, but it was not quite so easy to do. We could only ride for the +first fifty-two miles, which we accomplished in two days. These stages +brought us to the foot of the Dunstan Range, and near the gold-diggings +of that name. I would fain have turned aside to see them, but we had not +time. However, we felt the auriferous influence of the locality; for a +perfect stranger came up to us, whilst we were baiting at another place, +called the Kaiwarara diggings, and offered to buy our horses from us for +30 pounds each, and also to purchase our saddles and bridles at a fair +price. This was exactly what we wanted, as we had intended to sell them +at Dunedin; and I was no ways disinclined to part with the Hermit; who +retained the sulky, misanthropical temper which had earned him his name. +He was now pronounced "fit to carry a lady," and purchased to be sold +again at the diggings. Whether there were any ladies there or not I +cannot tell. Of course, before parting with our nags we ascertained that +the ubiquitous "Cobb's coach" started from our resting place for Dunedin +next day, and we made the rest of our journey in one of that well-known +line. Its leathern springs, whilst not so liable to break by sudden +jolts, impart a swinging rocking motion to the body of the vehicle, +which is most disagreeable; but rough and rude as they are, they deserve +to be looked upon with respect as the pioneers of civilization. All +over America, Australia, and now New Zealand, the moment half-a-dozen +passengers are forthcoming, that moment the enterprising firm starts +a coach, and the vehicle runs until it is ousted by a railway. All +previous tracks which I had journeyed over seemed smooth turnpike roads, +compared to that terrible tussocky track which led to Dunedin. + +But that bright little town was reached at last, the hotel welcomed us, +tired and bruised travellers that we were, and next evening we started +in the _Geelong_ for Port Lyttleton. This little coasting steamer seemed +to touch at every hamlet along the coast, and after each pause I had +to begin afresh my agonies of sea-sickness. There was no such thing +as getting one's sea-legs; for we were seldom more than a few hours +outside, and had no chance of getting used to the horrible motion. +Timaru was reached next day, but we had suffered so frightfully during +the night from a chopping sea and an open roadstead, that we went on +shore, and entrusted ourselves once more to the old coach. It seemed +better to endure the miseries we knew of, than to make experiments in +wretchedness. So we went through the old jolting and jumbling until we +were dropped at an accommodation house, fifteen miles from Christchurch, +where we slept that night, and at daylight despatched a messenger to the +next station for our own horses. He had only thirty-five miles to ride, +and about mid-day we started to meet him on hired horses, which we were +very glad to exchange for better nags a stage further on. + +And so we rode quietly home in the gloaming, winding up the lovely, +tranquil valley, at whose head stood our own snug little homestead. At +first we were so glad to be safely at hone again that we scarcely gave +a thought to our fruitless enterprise; but as our bruised bodies became +rested and restored, our hearts began to ache when we thought of the +money we had so rashly flung away in BUYING A RUN. + + + +Chapter VIII: Looking for a congregation. + + +It is to be hoped and expected that such a good understanding has been +established between my readers and myself by this time, that they will +not find the general title of these papers unsuitable to the heading +of this particular chapter. Indeed, I may truly say, that, looking back +upon the many happy memories of my three years life in that lovely +and beloved Middle Island, no pleasures stand out more vividly than my +evening rides up winding gullies or across low hill-ranges in search of +a shepherd's hut, or a _cockatoo's_ nest. A peculiar brightness seems to +rest on those sun-lit peaks of memory's landscape; and it is but fitting +that it should be so, for other excursions or expeditions used to +be undertaken merely for business or pleasure, but these delicious +wanderings were in search of scattered dwellings whose lonely +inhabitants--far removed from Church privileges for many a long +year past--might be bidden, nay, entreated, to come to us on Sunday +afternoons, and attend the Service we held at home weekly. + +And here I feel constrained to say a word to those whose eyes may haply +rest on my pages, and who may find themselves in the coming years in +perhaps the same position as I did a short time ago. A new comer to a +new country is sure to be discouraged if he or she (particularly _she_, +I fancy) should attempt to revive or introduce any custom which has +been neglected or overlooked. This is especially the case with religious +observances. At every turn one is met by disheartening warnings. "Oh, +the people here are very different to those in the old country; they +would look upon it as impertinence if you suggested they should come to +church." "You will find a few may come just at first, and then when +the novelty wears off and they have seen all the pretty things in your +drawing room, not a soul will ever come near the place." + +"If even the men don't say something very free and easy to you when you +invite them to your house on Sunday afternoons, you may depend upon +it that after two or three weeks you will not know how to keep them in +order." + +Such, and many more, were the discouraging remarks made when I consulted +my neighbours about my plan for collecting the shepherds from the +surrounding runs, and holding a Church of England Service every Sunday +afternoon at our own little homestead. To my mind, the distances seemed +the greatest obstacle, as many of the men I wanted to reach lived +twenty-five or even thirty miles away, with very rough country between. +I had no fear of impertinence, for it is unknown to me, and seldom +comes, I fancy, unprovoked; whilst with regard to the novelty wearing +off and the men ceasing to attend, that must be left in God's hands. We +could only endeavour to plant the good seed, and trust to Him to give +the increase. It was a great comfort to me in those early days that +F----, who had been many years in the colony, never joined in the +disheartening prophecies I have alluded to. Although as naturally averse +to reading aloud before strangers as a man who had lived a solitary life +would be sure to be, he promised at once, with a good grace, to read +the Evening Service and a sermon afterwards, and thus smoothed one +difficulty over directly. His advice to me was precisely what I would +fain repeat: "Try, by all means: if you fail you will at least feel you +have made the attempt." May all who try succeed, as we did! I believe +firmly they will, for it is an undertaking on which God's blessing is +sure to rest, and there are no such fertilizing dews as those which fall +from heaven. The mists arising from earth are only miasmic vapours after +all! + +But I fear to linger too long on the end, instead of telling you about +the means. + +It was May when we were fairly settled in our new home at the head of a +hill-encircled valley. With us that month answers to your November, but +fogs are unknown in that breezy Middle Island, and my first winter in +Canterbury was a beautiful season, heralded in by an exquisite autumn. +How crisp the mornings and evenings were, with ever so light a film +of hoar frost, making a splendid sparkle on every blade of waving +tussock-grass! Then in the middle of the day the delicious warmth of the +sun tempted one to linger all day in the open air, and I never wearied +of gazing at the strange purple shadows cast by a passing cloud; or up, +beyond the floating vapourous wreath, to the heaven of brilliant blue +which smiled upon us. And yet, when I come to think of it, I don't know +that I had much time to spare for glancing at either hills or skies, for +we were just settling ourselves in a new place, and no one knows what +_that_ means unless they have tried it, fifty miles away from the +nearest shop. The yeast alone was a perpetual anxiety to me,--it would +not keep beyond a certain time, and had a tendency to explode its +confining bottles in the middle of the night, so it became necessary to +make it in smaller quantities every ten days or so. If by any chance +I forgot to remind my scatter-brained damsels to replenish the yeast +bottles, they used up the last drop, and then would come smilingly to me +with the remark, "There aint not a drop o' yeast, about, anywhere, mum." +This entailed flap-jacks, or scones, or soda bread, or some indigestible +compound for at least three days, as it was of no use attempting to +make proper bread until the yeast had worked. Then the well needed to +be deepened, a kitchen garden had to be made, shelter to be provided +for the fowls and pigs; a shed to be put up for coals; a thousand things +which entailed thought and trouble, had to be done. + +It is true these rough jobs were not exactly in my line, but indoors I +was just as busy trying to make big things fit into little spaces and +_vice versa_. We could not afford to take things coolly and do a little +every day, for at that time of year an hour's change in the wind might +have brought a heavy fall of snow, or a sharp frost, or a; deluge of +rain down upon the uncovered and defenceless heads of our live stock. +The poor dear sheep, the source of our income, were after all the least +well-cared for creatures on the Station. A well grassed and watered +run, with sunny vallies for winter feeding, and green hills for summer +pasturage, had been provided by antipodean Nature for them, and to +these advantages we only added some twenty or twenty-five miles of +wire fencing, and then they were left to themselves, with a couple of +shepherds to look after fifteen thousand sheep all the year round. + +But yet, busy as we were, we found time to look up a congregation. The +very first Sunday afternoon, whilst we were still in the midst of a +chaos of chips and big boxes and straw and empty china-barrels, our own +shepherds came over, by invitation, and the only very near neighbours we +had--a Scotch head-shepherd and his charming young wife,--and we held a +Service in the half-furnished drawing room. After it was ended we had a +long talk with the men, and they confessed that they had enjoyed it +very much, and would like to come regularly. When questioned as to +the feasibility of inducing others to join, they said that it might +be suggested to more than one distant, lonely hill-shepherd, but his +uncontrollable shyness would probably prevent his attendance. + +"Jim Salter, and Joe Bennett, and a lot more on 'em, would be glad enow +to come, if so be they could feel as how they was truly wellcombe," said +our shepherd, Pepper, who prided himself on the elegance and correctness +of his phraseology. He added, after a reflective pause, turning +bashfully away, "If so be as the lady would just look round and give 'em +a call, they'd be to be persuaded belike." + +So the scheme was Pepper's after all, you see. But this "looking round," +to which he alluded so airily, meant scrambling rides, varying from ten +to twenty-eight miles in length, over break-neck country, and this +on the slender chance of finding the men in-doors. Now a New Zealand +shepherd almost lives out on the hills, so the prospect of finding +any of our congregation at home was slight indeed. However, as I said +before, F---- stood by me, and although we neither of us could well +spare the time, we agreed to devote two afternoons every week, so long +as the fine open autumn weather, lasted, to making excursions in search +of back-country huts. There are no roads or finger posts or guides of +any sort in those distant places. When we inquired what was the name of +"Mills" shepherd (the masters are always plain Smith or Jones, and the +shepherds Mr.----, in the colonies) the answer was generally very vague. +"Wiry Bill, we mostly calls 'im; but I think I've heerd say his rightful +name was Mr. Pellet, mum. He's a little chap, as strong as the 'ouse," +explained Pepper, who was an incorrigible cockney, "and he lives over +there," pointing with his thumb to a mountain range behind us. "He's in +one of them blind gullies. You go along the gorge of the river till you +come to a saddle all over fern, and you drop down that, and follow the +best o' three or four tracts till you come to a swamp." + +Here Pepper paused, in consideration of my face of horror; for if there +was one thing I dreaded more than another in those early days, it was a +swamp. Steep hill sides, wide creeks, honey-combed flats, all came in, +the day's ride,--but a swamp! Ugh! the horrible treacherous thing, so +green and innocent looking, with here and there a quicksand or a peaty +morass, in which, without a moment's warning, your horse sank up to his +withers! It was dreadful, and when we came to such a place Helen used to +stop dead short, prick her pretty ears well forward, and, trembling with +fear and excitement, put her nose close to the ground, smelling every +inch, before she would place her fore foot down on it, jumping off it +like a goat if it proved insecure. Generally she crossed a swamp, by a +series of bounds in and out of flax bushes; and hopeless indeed would a +morass be without those green cities of refuge! + +Horrible as a large swamp is however to a timid horsewoman, it is dear +to the heart of a cockatoo. He gladly buys a freehold of fifty acres +in the midst of one, burns it, makes a sod fence, sown with gorse seed +a-top, all round his section, drains it in a rough and ready fashion, +and then the splendid fertile soil which has been waiting for so many +thousand years, "brings forth fruit abundantly." Such enormous fields of +wheat and oats and barley as you come upon sometimes,--with, alas, never +a market near enough to enable the plenteous crop to return sevenfold +into its master's bosom! + +I shall not inflict upon you a description of all our rides in search of +members for our congregation. Two, in widely differing directions, +will serve as specimens of such excursions. In consideration of my +new-chumishness, F---- selected a comparatively easy track for our +first ride. And yet, "bad was the best," might surely be said of that +breakneck path. What would an English horse, or an English lady say, +to riding for miles over a slippery winding ledge on a rocky hill side, +where a wall of solid mountain rose up perpendicularly on the right +hand, and on the left a very respectable sized river hurried over its +boulders far beneath the aerial path; yet this was comparatively a +safe track, and presented but one serious obstacle, over which I was +ruthlessly taken. It is perhaps needless to say we were riding in +single file, and equally unnecessary to state that I was the last; for +certainly we should never have made much progress otherwise. Helen, my +bay mare, would follow her stable companion, on which F---- was mounted, +so that was the way we got on at all. + +A sudden sharp turn showed me what appeared to be a low stone wall +running own the spur of the mountain, right across our track, and I had +already begun to disquiet myself about the possibility of turning back +on such a narrow ledge, when I saw F----'s powerful black horse, with +his ears well forward, and his reins, lying loose on his neck, make a +sort of rush at the obstacle, climb up it as a cat would, stand for +an instant, exactly like a performing goat, with all four legs drawn +closely together under him, and then with a spring disappear on the +other side. "This wall", I thought, "must be but loosely built, for +_Leo_ has displaced some of the stones from its coping." Helen, pretty +dear, hurried after her friend and leader; and before I had time to +realize what she was going to do, she was balancing herself on the +crumbling summit of this stone wall (which was only the freak of a +landslip), and as it proved impossible to remain there, perched like +a bird on a very insecure branch, nothing remained except to gather +herself well together and jump off. But what a jump! the ground fell +sheer away at the foot of the wall, and left a chasm many feet wide, +which the horse could not see until it had climbed to the top of the +wall, and as turning back was out of the question, the only alternative +was to give a vigorous bound on to the narrow ledge beyond. Terrified as +I felt, I luckily refrained from jerking Helen's head, or attempting to +guide her in any way. The only chance of safety over New Zealand tracks, +or New Zealand creeks, is to leave your horse _entirely_ to itself. I +have seen men who were reckoned good riders in England, get the most +ignominious tumbles from a disregard of this advice. An up-country horse +knows perfectly well the only sound spots in a swamp; or the only sound +part of a creek's banks. If his rider persists in taking him over the +latter, where he himself thinks it narrowest and safest, he is pretty +sure to find the earth rotten and crumbling, and to pay for his +obstinacy by a wetting; whilst in the case of a swamp the consequences +are even more serious, and the horse often gets badly strained in +floundering out of a quagmire. + +But it was not all danger and difficulty, and the many varieties of +scene in the course of a long ride constituted some of its chief charms. +At first, perhaps, after we had left our own fair valley behind, the +track would wind through the gorge of a river, with lofty mountains +rising sheer up from the water side. All here was sad and grey, and very +solemn in its eternal silence, only made more intense by the ceaseless +monotonous roar of the ever-rushing water. Then we would emerge on acres +and acres of softly rolling downs, higher than the hillocks we call by +that name at home, but still marvellously beautiful in their swelling +curves all folding so softly into each other, and dotted with mobs of +sheep, making pastoral music to a flock-owner's ear. Over this sort of +ground we could canter gaily along, with "Hector," F----'s pet colley, +keeping close to the heels of his master's horse,--for it is the worst +of bad manners in a colley to look at a neighbour's sheep. The etiquette +in passing through a strange run is for the dog to go on the off side of +his master's horse, so that the sheep shall not even see him; and this +piece of courtly politeness Hector always practised of his own accord. + +A wire fence always proved a very tiresome obstacle, for horses have +a great dread of them, and will not be induced to jump them on any +account. If we could find out where the gate was, well and good; but as +it might be half a dozen miles off, on one side or the other, we seldom +lost time or patience in seeking it. When there was no help for it, and +such a fence had to be crossed, the proceedings were, always the same. +F----dismounted, and unfastened one of his stirrup leathers; with this +he strapped the wires as firmly as possible together, but if the fence +had been lately fresh-strained, it was sometimes a difficult task. +Still he generally made one spot lower than the rest, and over this he +proceeded to adjust his coat very carefully; he then vaulted lightly +over himself, and calling upon me to aid by sundry flicks on Leo's +flank, the horse would be induced to jump over it. This was always a +work of time and trouble, for Leo hated doing it, and would rather have +leaped the widest winter creek, than jumped the lowest coat-covered wire +fence. Helen had to jump with me on her back, and without any friendly +whip to urge her, but except once, when she caught her hind leg in +the sleeve of the coat which was hanging over the fence, and tore it +completely out, she got over very well. Upon that occasion F---- had +to carry his sleeve in his pocket until we reached the neat little +out-station hut, where Jim Salter lived, and where we were pretty sure +to find a housewife, for shepherds are as handy as sailors with a needle +and thread. + +I shall always believe that some bird of the air had "carried the +matter" to Salter, because not only was he at home, and in his Sunday +clothes, but he had made a cake the evening before, and that was a very +suspicious circumstance. However we pretended not to imagine that we +were expected, and Jim pretended with equal success to be much surprised +at our visit, so both sides were satisfied. Nothing could be neater +than the inside of the little hut; its cob walls papered with, old +Illustrated London News,--not only pictures but letter-press,--its tiny +window as clean as possible, a new sheep-skin rug laid down before the +open fireplace, where a bright wood fire was sputtering and cracking +cheerily, and the inevitable kettle suspended from a hook half-way up +the low chimney. Outside, the dog-kennels had been newly thatched with +tohi grass, the garden weeded and freshly dug, the chopping-block and +camp-oven as clean as scrubbing could make them. It was too late in the +year for fruit, but Salter's currant, raspberry, and gooseberry bushes +gave us a good idea of how well he must have fared in the summer. The +fowls were just devouring the last of the green-pea shoots, and the +potatoes had been blackened by our first frosts. + +It was all very nice and trim and comfortable, except the loneliness; +that must have been simply awful. It is difficult to realise how +completely cut off from the society of his kind a New Zealand up-country +shepherd is, especially at an out-station like this. Once in every three +months he goes down to the homestead, borrows the pack horse, and leads +it up to his hut, with a quarter's rations of flour, tea, sugar and +salt; of course he provides himself with mutton and firewood, and his +simple wants are thus supplied. After shearing, about January, his wages +are paid, varying from 75 pounds to 100 pounds a year, according to +the locality, and then he gets a week's leave to go down to the nearest +town. If he be a prudent steady man, as our friend Salter was, he puts +his money in the bank, or lends it out on a freehold mortgage at ten +per cent., only deducting a few pounds from his capital for a suit of +clothes, a couple of pair of Cookham boots for hill walking, and above +all, some new books. + +Without any exception, the shepherds I came across in New Zealand were +all passionately fond of reading; and they were also well-informed +men, who often expressed themselves in excellent, through superfine, +language. Their libraries chiefly consisted of yellow-covered novels, +and out of my visits in search of a congregation grew a scheme for a +book-club to supply something better in the way of literature, which was +afterwards most successfully carried out. But of this I need not speak +here, for we are still seated inside Salter's hut,--so small in its +dimensions that it could hardly have held another guest. Womanlike, +my eyes were everywhere, and I presently spied out an empty bottle, +labelled "Worcestershire Sauce." + +"Dear me, Salter," I cried, "I had no idea you were so grand as to +have sauces up here: why we hardly ever use them." "Well, mum," replied +Salter, bashfully, and stroking his long black beard to gain time +to select the grandest words he could think of, "it is hardly to be +regarded in the light of happetite, that there bottle, it is more in +the nature of remedies." Then, seeing that I still looked mystified, he +added, "You see, mum, although we gets our 'elth uncommon well in these +salubrious mountings, still a drop of physic is often handy-like, and +in a general way I always purchase myself a box of Holloway's Pills +(of which you do get such a lot for your money), and also a bottle of +pain-killer; but last shearing they was out o' pain-killer, they said, +so they put me up a bottle o' Cain pepper, and likewise that 'ere +condiment, which was werry efficacious, 'specially towards the end o' +the bottle!" "And do you really mean to say you drank it, Salter?" I +inquired with horror. + +"Certainly I do, mum, whenever I felt out o' sorts. It always took my +mind off the loneliness, and cheered me up wonderful, especial if I +hadded a little red pepper to it," said Salter, getting up from his log +of wood and making me a low bow. All this time F---- and I were seated +amicably side by side on poor Salter's red blanket-covered "bunk," or +wooden bedstead, made of empty flour-sacks nailed between rough poles, +and other sacks filled with tussock grass for a mattress and pillow. + +The word loneliness gave me a good opening to broach the subject of our +Sunday gatherings, and my suspicions of Jim's having been told of our +visit were confirmed by the alacrity with which he said, "I have much +pleasure in accepting your kind invitation, mum, if so be as I am not +intruding." + +"No, indeed Salter," F---- said; "you'd be very welcome, and you could +always turn Judy into the paddock whilst we were having service." + +Now if there was one thing dearer to Salter's heart than another, it was +his little roan mare Judy: her excellent condition, and jaunty little +hog-mane and tail, testified to her master's loving care. So it was all +happily settled, and after paying a most unfashionably long visit to the +lonely man, we rode away with many a farewell nod and smile. I may say +here that Salter was one of the most regular of our congregation for +more than two years, besides being a member of the book club. In time, +its more sensible volumes utterly displaced the yellow paper rubbish in +his but library, and I never can forget the poor man's emotion when he +came to bid me good-bye. + +At my request he made the rough little pen and ink sketches which are +here given, and as he held my offered hand (not knowing quite what else +to do with it) when I took leave of him after our last home-service, +when my face was set towards England, he could not say a word. The great +burly creature's heart must have been nearly as big as his body, and he +seemed hardly to know that large tears were rolling down his sunburnt +face and losing themselves in his bushy beard. I tried to be cheerful +myself, but he kept repeating, "It is only natural you should be glad +to go, yet it is very rough upon us." In vain I assured him I was not +at all glad to go,--very, very sorry, in fact: all he would say was, "To +England, home and beauty, in course any one would be pleased to +return." I can't tell you what he meant, and he had no voice to waste on +explanations; I only give poor dear Jim's valedictory sentences as they +fell from his white and trembling lips. + +Very different was Ned Palmer, the most diminutive and wiry of hill +shepherds, with a tongue which seemed never tired, and a good humoured +smile for every one. Ned used to try my gravity sorely by stepping up to +me half a dozen times during the service, to find his place for him in +his Prayer-book, and always saying aloud, "Thank you kindly, m'm." + + + +Chapter IX: Another shepherd's hut. + + +To get to Ned's hut--which was not nearly so trim or comfortable as +Salter's, and stood out in the midst of a vast plain covered with waving +yellow tussocks,--we had to cross a low range of hills, and pick our +way through nearly a mile of swampy ground on the other side. The +sure-footed horses zig-zagged their way up the steep hill-side with +astonishing ease, availing themselves here and there of a sheep track, +for sheep are the best engineers in the world, and always hit off the +safest and easiest line of country. I did not feel nervous going _up_ +the hill, although we must have appeared, had there been any one to look +at us, more like flies on a wall than a couple of people on horse back, +but when we came to the ridge and looked down on the descent beneath us, +my heart fairly gave way. + +Not a blade of grass, or a leaf of a shrub, was to be seen on all the +steep slope, or rather precipice, for there was very little slope about +it; nothing but grey loose shingle, which the first hoof-fall of +the leading horse invariably sent slipping and sliding, in a perfect +avalanche of rubble, down into the soft bright green morass beneath. +Of all the bad "tracks" I encountered in my primitive rides, I really +believe I suffered more real terror and anguish on that particular +hill-side than on any other. My companion's conduct too, used to be +heartless in the extreme. He let the reins fall loosely on his horse's +neck, merely holding their extreme ends, settled himself comfortably +in his saddle, leaning well back, and turning round laughingly to +me, observed, "Aren't you coming?" "Oh, not there," I cried in true +melo-dramatic tones of horror; but it was all in vain, F---- merely +remarked "You have nothing to do but fancy you are sitting in an +arm-chair at home, you are quite as safe." "What nonsense," I gasped. "I +only wish I _was_ at home: never, never will I come out riding again." +All this time the leading horse was slowly and carefully edging himself +down hill a few steps to the right, then a few to the left, just as he +thought best, displacing tons of loose stone and even small rocks +at every movement. Helen, nothing daunted, was eager to follow, and +although she quivered with excitement at the noise, echoed back from the +opposite hills, lost no time in preparing to descend. Her first movement +sent such showers of rubble down upon F---- and his horse, that I really +thought the latter would have been knocked off his legs. "If you _could_ +keep a little more to the right, so as to send the stones clear of me, +I should be very grateful," shouted F----, who was actually near the +bottom of the hill already, so sharp had been the angles of his horse's +descent. I felt afraid of attempting to guide Helen, lest the least +check should send us both head over heels into the quagmire below, and +yet it seemed dreadful to cause the death of one's husband by rolling +down cart loads of stones upon him. It could not have been more than +five minutes before Helen and I stood side by side with Leo, on the only +bit of firm ground at the edge of the morass. I believe I was as white +as my pocket handkerchief; and if fright could turn a person's hair +grey, I had been sufficiently alarmed to make myself eligible for any +quantity of walnut pomade. + +Fortunately the summer had proved rather a dry one, and the swamp was +not so wet as it would have been after a heavy rain-fall. The horses +stepped carefully from flax bushes to "nigger heads" (as the very old +blackened grass stumps are called), resting hardly a moment anywhere, +and avoiding all the most seductive looking spots. I thought my +companion must have gone suddenly mad, when, a hawk rising up almost +from beneath our horses' feet, he flung himself off his saddle and cried +out, "A late hawk's nest, I declare!" And so it proved, for a little +searching in a sheltered and tolerably dry spot revealed a couple of +eggs, precisely like hens' eggs, until broken, when their delicate pale +green inner membrane betrayed their dangerous origin. It is chiefly +owing to this practice of laying in swamps that the various kinds of +hawk increase and thrive as they do, for if it were possible to get +at them, the shepherds would soon exterminate the sworn foe of +their chickens and pigeons. They are also the great drawback to the +introduction of pheasants and partridges, for the young birds have not a +chance in the open against even a sparrow-hawk. + +Although it is a digression, I must tell you here how, one beautiful +early winter's day, I was standing in the verandah at my own home, when +one of our pigeons, chased by a hawk, flew right into my face and its +pursuer was so close and so heated by the chase, that it flung itself +also with great violence against my head, with a scream of rage and +triumph, hurting me a good deal as it dug its cruel, armed heel into my +cheek. The pigeon had fluttered, stunned and exhausted to the ground, +and, quick as lightning I stooped to pick it up; so great had been +the impetus of the hawk's final charge that he had never perceived his +victim had escaped him. The cunning of these birds must be seen to be +believed. I have often watched a wary old hawk perched most impudently +on the stock-yard rails, waiting until a rash chicken or duckling +should, in spite of its mother's warning clucks of terror, insist on +coming out from under her sheltering wings. If I took an umbrella, or a +croquet mallet, or a walking stick, and went out, the bird would remain +quite unmoved, even if I held my weapon pointed gun-wise towards him. +But let anyone take a real gun and hold it ever so well hidden behind +their back, and emerge ever so cautiously from the shelter of the +shrubs, my fine gentleman was off directly, mounting out of sight with a +few strokes of his powerful wings, and uttering a shriek of derision as +he departed. Nothing is so rare as a successful shot at a hawk. + +We consoled ourselves however on this occasion, by reflecting that we +had annihilated two young hawks before they had commenced their lives +of rapine and robbery, and rode on our way rejoicing, to find Ned Palmer +sitting outside his but door on a log of drift wood, making, candles. In +the more primitive days of the settlement, the early settlers must have +been as badly off for light, during the long dark winter evenings, as +are even now the poorer inhabitants of Greenland or of Iceland, for +their sole substitute for candles consisted of a pannikin half filled +with melted tallow, in which a piece of cork and an apology for a wick +floated. But by my time all this had long been past and over, and even +a back-country shepherd had a nice tin mould in which he could make a +dozen candles of the purest tallow at a time. + +Ned was just running a slender piece of wood through the loops of his +twisted cotton wicks, so as to keep them above the rim of the mould, and +the strong odour of melted mutton fat was tainting the lovely fresh air. +But New Zealand run-holders have often to put up with queer smells as +well as sights and sounds, therefore we only complimented Ned on being +provident enough to make a good stock of candles before-hand, for home +consumption, during the coming dark days. After we had dismounted and +hobbled our horses with the stirrup leathers, so that they could move +about and nibble the sweet blue grass growing under each sheltering +tussock, I sat down on a large stone near, and began to tell Ned how +often I had watched the negroes in Jamaica making candles after a +similar fashion, only they use the wax from the wild bee nests instead +of tallow, which was a rare and scarce thing in that part of the world. +I described to him the thick orange-coloured wax candles which used to +be the delight of my childhood, giving out a peculiar perfuming odour +after they had been burning for an hour or two,--an odour made up of +honey and the scent of heavy tropic flowers. + +Ned listened to my little story with much politeness, and then, feeling +it incumbent on him to contribute to the conversation, remarked, "I +never makes candles ma'am without I thinks of frost-bites." + +"How is that, Palmer?" I asked, laughingly. "What in the world have they +to do with each other?" + +"Well, ma'am, you see it was just in this way. It was afore I come +here, which is quite a lively, sociable place compared to Dodson's back +country out-station, at the foot o' those there ranges beyond. I give +you my word, ma'am, it used always to make me feel as if I was dead, +and living in a lonely eternity. Them clear, bright-blue _glassers_ +(glaciers, he meant, I presume) was awful lonesome, and as for a human +being they never come a-nigh the place. Well as I was saying, ma'am, one +day I finds I had run out o' candles, and as the long dark evenings (for +it was the height o' winter) was bad enough, even with a dip burning, to +show me old Spot's face for company, I set to work, hot haste, to make +some more. It was bitter, biting cold, you bet, ma'am; and I was hard at +work--just after I had had my bit o' breakfast, before I went out for to +look round my boundary--melting and making my dips, so that they might +be fine and hard for night. I ought praps to mention that Spot used to +get so close to the fire-place, that as often as not, I dropped a mossel +of the hot grease on the dog; and if it touched a thin place in his +coat, he would jump up howling. Well, ma'am, I was pouring a pannikin +full o' biling tallow into the mould, when poor old Spot he gives a +sudden howl and yell, and runs to the door. I paid no attention to him +at the time, for I was so busy; but he went on leaping up and howling as +if he had gone mad. As soon as I could put down the pannikin out o' +my hand, I went to the door meaning to open it and,--sorry am I to say +it,--kick the poor beast out for making such a row about a drop o' hot +grease. But the dog turned his face round on me, and gave me a look +as much as to say, 'Make haste, do; there's a good chap: I ought to +be outside there.' And what with the sense shinin' in his eyes, and +a curious kind o' sound outside, I takes down the bar (for the door +wouldn't stay shut otherwise), and looks out. Never until my dyin' day, +and not even then, I expect, shall I forget what the dog and I saw lying +on the ground, which was all white and hard with frost, the sun not +having got over the East range yet. The dog he had more sense and a deal +more pluck than I had, for he knows there aint a moment to be lost; and +he runs up to the flat, tumbled-down heap o' clothes, gets on its back +(for no face could I see), so as to be doing something, and not losing +time, and begins licking. Not very far off there was a lean horse +standing, but he didn't seem to like to come through the slip-rail o' +the paddock fence. + +"In coorse I couldn't stand gaping there all day, so I went and stooped +down to the man, who was lying flat on his face, with his arms straight +out. He wasn't sensibleless (Palmer's favourite word for senseless), for +he opened his eyes, and said, "For God's sake, mate, take me in." "So +I will, mate," I makes reply "and welcome you are. Can you get on your +legs, think you?" With that he groans awful, and says, "My legs is +friz." Well, I looks at his legs, and sees he was dressed in what had +been good moleskins, and high jack riding-boots, coming up to his knees; +but sure enough they was as hard as a board, and actially, if you'll +believe me, ma'am, there was a rim o' solid hice round the tops of his +boots. As for standing, he couldn't do it: his legs was no more use to +him than they was to me, and he was a tall, high fellow besides. Cold as +it was, I felt hot enough by the time I had lugged that poor man inside +my place, and got him up on my bunk. He could speak, though his voice +was weak as weak could be, and he helped me as well as he could by +catching hold with his arms, but his legs was stone dead. I had to get +the tommy (_anglice_-tomahawk), and _chop_ his boots off, and that's the +gospel truth, ma'am. I broke my knife, first try, and the axe was too +big. He told me, poor fellow, that two days before, as he was returning +from prospecting up towards the back ranges, his horse got away, and he +_couldn't_ catch him. No: he tried with all his might and main, for in +his swag, which was strapped to the D's of his saddle, was not only his +blanket, but his baccy, and tea, and damper, and a glass o' grog. The +curious thing, too, was that the horse didn't bolt right away, as they +generally do: he jest walked a-head, knowing his master was bound to +follow wherever he led, for in coorse he had hopes to catch him every +moment. That ere brute, he never laid down nor rested,--jest kep slowly +moving on, as if he was a Lunnon street-boy, with a bobby at his heels. +Through creeks and rivers and swamps he led that poor fellow. His boots +got chuck full o' cold water, and when the sun went down it friz into +solid hice; and that misfortnit man he felt his legs--which was +his life, you see, ma'am--gradially dyin' under him. Yet he was a +well-plucked one, if ever there was such a party on this airth. He told +me he had took _five_ mortial hours to come the last mile, the horse +walkin' slowly afore him, and guiding him like. And how do you think he +did it, with two pillars of hice for legs? Why he lifted up just one leg +and then the other with both his hands, and put them afore him, and took +his steps that way." + +Here honest Ned, his eyes glistening, and his ugly little face glowing +with emotion through its coating of sunburn, paused, as if he did not +like to go on. + +I was more touched and interested than I could avoid showing, and +cried, "Oh, _do_ tell me, Palmer, what became of the poor fellow! Did he +die?" + +Ned cleared his throat, and moved so as to get between me and the light +from the door, as he said huskily, "He came very nigh to it, ma'am. I +never did set eyes on such a decent patient chap as that man was. I did +the very wust thing I could a' done, the town doctors told me, for I +brought him into the hut, instead o' keeping him outdoors and rubbing +his poor black legs with snow. 'Stead o' that, I wrapped him up warm in +my own blankets, after I had chipped his boots and the hice off of 'em, +and I made up a roarin' fire. Good Lord, how the poor fellow groaned +when he begun to get warm! I gave him a pannikin full o' hot tea, with +a drop o' grog in it, and that seemed to make him awful bad. At last he +said, with the sweat from sheer agony pouring down his face, "Look here, +matey: couldn't you hump me out in the snow again? for it aint nigh so +bad to bear it cold as it is to bear it hot." Not a bad word did he say, +ma'am, and he tried not to give in more nor he could help; but he was +clean druv wild with the hanguish in his legs. + +"Presently I remembers, quite sudden like, that a bush doctor, name of +Tomkins, was likely to be round by Simmons, cos' o' his missus. So I got +on my 'oss in a minnit, and I rides off and fetches him, for sure +enough he was there; and though Simmons' missis wasn't to say over her +troubles, she spoke up from behind the curtain of red blanket she had +put up in her tidy little hut, and bade old Tomkins go with me. May God +bless her and hers for that same, say I! Well, ma'am, when Tomkins come +back with me and saw the poor fellow (he was fair shoutin' with the pain +in his legs by then), he said nothin' could be done. "They'll mortify +by morrow mornin'," says he, "and then he'll die easy." So with that he +goes back with the first light next day, to Simmons. Sure enough, the +poor fellow did get a bit easier next day, and I felt clear mad to +think he was goin' to die before my very eyes. "Not if I can help it!" I +cries, quite savage like. But he only smiled a patient smile, and said, +"God's will be done, mate. He knows best, and I aint in any pain to +speak of, now." + +"By and bye I hears a rumbling and a creaking, and cracking of whips; +and when I looks out, what do I see but the bullock-dray from Simmons' +coming up the flat. It was the only thing on wheels within forty mile, +and Simmons had brought it his own self to see if we couldn't manage to +get the poor fellow down to the nighest town. I won't make my yarn no +longer than I can help, ma'am, so I'll only mention that we made a lot +o' the strongest mutton broth you ever tasted; we slung a hammock of red +blankets in the dray, and we got the poor fellow down by evening to a +gentleman's station. There they made us kindly welcome, did all they +could for him, and transhipped the hammock into a pair-horse dray, which +went quicker and was easier. We got on as fast as we could every step of +the way, and by midnight that poor fellow was tucked into a clean bed +in the hospital at Christchurch, with both his legs neatly cut off just +above the knee, for there wasn't a minute to lose." + +I was almost afraid to inquire how the sufferer fared, for Ned's eyes +were fairly swimming with unshed tears; but he smiled brightly, +and said, "The ladies and gentlemen in the town, they set up a +_subscribetion_, and bought the poor chap a first-rate pair o' wooden +legs, and he could even manage to ride about after a bit; and instead +o' wandering about looking for country, or gold, or what not, he settled +down as a carrier, and throve and did well. And I was thinking, ma'am, +as how I'd like to return thanks for that poor fellow's wonderful +recovery, for I've never had a chance of going to Church since, and its +nigh upon two years ago that it happened." + +"So you shall, Ned: so you shall!" we said with one voice. And so at our +first Church gathering at our dear little antipodean home, F----, who +acted as our minister, paused in the beautiful Thanksgiving Service, +after he had read solemnly and slowly the simple words, "Especially for +Thy late mercies vouchsafed to ----," and Ned Palmer chimed in with an +"Amen,"--misplaced, indeed, but none the less hearty, and delightful to +hear. + + + +Chapter X: Swaggers. + + +Dr. Johnson did not know the somewhat vulgar word which heads this +paper. At least he did not know it as a noun, but gives "swagger: v.n., +to bluster, bully, brag;" but the Slang Dictionary admits it as a word, +springing indeed from the thieves' vocabulary: "one who carries a swag." +Neither of these books however give the least idea of the true meaning +of the expression, which is as fully recognised as an honest word in +both Australia and New Zealand as any other combination of letters +in the English language. A swagger is the very antithesis then of a +swaggerer, for, whereas, the one is full of pretension and abounds +in unjust claims on our notice, the swagger is humility and civility +itself. He knows, poor weary tramp, that on the favourable impression he +makes upon the "boss," depends his night's lodging and food, as well as +a job of work in the future. We will leave then the ideal swaggerer to +some other biographer who may draw glowing word-pictures of him in all +his jay's splendour, and we will confine ourselves to describing the +real swagger, clad in flannel shirt, moleskin trowsers, and what were +once thick boots, but might now be used as sieves. + +Nothing astonished me so much in my New Zealand Station Life as these +visitors. Even Sir Roger de Coverley himself would have looked with +distrust upon most of our swagger-guests, and yet I never heard of an +instance in our part of the country where the unhesitating, ungrudging +hospitality extended by the rich squatters to their poorer compatriots +was ever abused. I say "in our part," because unfortunately, wherever +gold is discovered, either in quartz or riverbed, the good old primitive +customs and ways die out of themselves in a few weeks, and each +mammon-seeker looks with distrust on a stranger. Only fifty or sixty +miles from us, as the crow might fly across the snowy range, where an +immense Bush clothes the banks of the Hokitika river right down to its +sand-filled mouth on the West Coast, the great gold diggings broke +out seven or eight years ago, and changed the face of society in that +district in a few days. _There_ a swagger meant a man who might rob or +murder you in your sleep after you had fed and lodged him; or--under +the most favourable circumstances supposing him to be a "milder mannered +man,"--a "fossicker," who would not hesitate to "jump your claim," or +hang about when you are prospecting, to watch how much of the colour you +found, and then go off stealthily to return next day at the head of a +"rush" of a thousand diggers. + +Even before the famous Maungatapu murders in 1866, swaggers were looked +upon with distrust on the West Coast, and after that date hardly any +one travelled in those parts without carrying a small revolver in +his breast-pocket. Nothing is more tantalising than an allusion to a +circumstance which is not well-known; and as I feel certain that very +few of my readers have ever heard of what may be called the first great +crime committed in the Middle Island, a brief account of that terrible +tragedy may not be out of place. Gold of course was at the bottom of it, +but the canvas-bags full of the glittering flakes were red with blood by +the time they reached the bank at Nelson. The diggings on the West Coast +were only two years old at that date, and although it was not uncommon +for prospecting parties cutting their way, axe in hand, through the +thick bush, to come upon skeletons of men in lonely places, still +it might be taken for granted that these were the remains of early +explorers or travellers who had got lost and starved to death within +the green tangled walls of this impenetrable forest. The scenery of that +part of the Middle Island is far more beautiful than in the agricultural +or pastoral districts. Giant Alps clothed half up their steep sides +with evergreen pines,--whose dark forms end abruptly where snow and ice +begin,--stand out against a pure sky of more than Italian blue, and only +when a cleared saddle is reached can the traveller look down over the +wooded hills and vallies rolling away inland before him, or turn his +eyes sea-ward to the bold coast with its many rivers, whose wide mouths +foam right out to where the great Pacific waves are heaving under the +bright winter sun. + +Such, and yet still more fair must have been the prospect on which +Burgess, Kelly, Levy, and Sullivan's eyes rested one June morning in the +mid-winter of 1866. They were, one and all, originally London thieves, +and had been transported years before to the early penal settlements of +Australia. From thence they had managed, by fair means and foul, to work +their way to other places, and had latterly been living in the Middle +Island, earning what they could by horse-breaking and divers odd jobs. +But your true convict hates work with a curiously deadly hatred, and +these four men agreed to go and look round them at the new West Coast +diggings. They found, however, that there, as elsewhere, it would be +necessary to work hard, so in disgust at seeing the nuggets and dust +which rewarded the toil of more industrious men, they left Hokitika and +reached Nelson on their way to Picton, the chief town of the adjoining +province of Marlborough. Most of the gold found its way under a strongly +armed escort to the banks in both these towns, but it was well-known +that fortunate diggers occasionally travelled together, unarmed, +and laden with "dust." So safe had been the roads hitherto, that the +commonest precautions were not taken, nor the least secrecy observed +about travellers' movements. + +It was therefore no mystery that four unarmed diggers, carrying a +considerable number of ounces of gold-dust with them, were going to +start from the Canvas-town diggings for Nelson on a certain day, and +the men I have mentioned set out to meet them. One part of their long +journey led them over the Maungatapu range by a saddle, which in its +lowest part is 2,700 feet above the sea-level. The night before the +murder, the victims and their assassins camped out with only ten miles +between them. So lonely and deserted was the rough mountain track, that +the appearance of a poor old man named Battle alarmed Burgess and his +gang dreadfully, and they immediately murdered him, in order that he +should not report having passed them on the road. Between the commission +of this act of precaution and the arrival of the little band of +travellers, no one else was seen. Burgess appears to have shown some of +the qualities of a good general; for he selected a spot where the only +path wound along a steep side-cutting, less than six feet wide, with an +unbroken forest on the upper, and a mass of tangled bush on the lower +side. As the doomed men approached the murderers sprang out, and each +thrusting a revolver close to their faces, called on them "to hold +up their hands." This is an old bushranger challenge, and is meant to +ensure perfect quiescence on the part of the victim. The travellers +mechanically complied, and in this way were instantly separated, led to +different spots, and ruthlessly shot dead. + +It was all over in a moment: Burgess and his men flung the bodies down +among the tangled bush, and returned to Nelson rejoicing exceedingly +over the simple and easy means by which they had possessed themselves +of several hundred pounds. Of course they calculated on the usual +supine indifference to other people's affairs, which prevails in busy +gold-seeking communities; but in this instance the public seemed to be +suddenly seized by a violent and inconvenient curiosity to find out +what had become of the four men who were known to have started from +Canvas-town two or three days before. No one ever dreamed of a murder +having been committed, not even when another "swagger" reached Nelson +and stated that he had followed the diggers on the road, only a mile or +so behind, had suddenly lost sight of them at the spot I have mentioned, +and had never been able to overtake them. Instead of leaving the +now excited little town, or keeping quiet, Burgess, Kelly, Levy, and +Sullivan, may truly be said to have become "swaggerers;" for they +loitered about the place, ostentatiously displaying their bags of gold +dust. Unsuspicious as the Nelson people were, they acted upon a sort of +instinct,--that instinct within us which answers so mysteriously to the +cry of blood from the earth,--and arrested these four men. Still, the +matter might have ended there for lack of a clue, if one of the party, +Sullivan, had not suddenly turned informer, and led the horrified +town's-people to the jungle which concealed the bodies. Here my dreadful +story may end; for we need not follow the course of the trial, which +resulted in the complete conviction of the three other men. I have only +dwelt on so horrible a theme in order to make my readers understand how +natural it was that I should feel nervous, when it became apparent to +my understanding that the custom of the country demanded that you +should ask no questions, but simply tell any travellers who claimed your +hospitality where they were to sleep, and send them in large supplies of +mutton, flour, and tea. + +On one occasion it chanced that F----, our stalwart cadet Mr. A----, +and the man who did odd jobs about the place, were all on the point of +setting out upon some expedition, when a party of four swaggers made +their appearance just at sundown. No true swagger ever appears earlier, +lest he might be politely requested to "move on" to the next station; +whereas if he times his arrival exactly when "the shades of night +are falling fast," no boss could be hard-hearted enough to point to +mist-covered hills and valleys, which are a net-work of deep creeks and +swamps, and desire the wayfarer to go on further. Once, and only once, +did I know of such a thing being done; but I will not say more about +that unfortunate at this moment, for I want to claim the pity of all my +lady readers for the very unprotected position I am trying to depict. +F---- could not understand my nervousness, and did not reassure me by +saying, as he mounted his horse, "I've told them to sleep in the stable. +I am pretty sure they are run-away sailors, they seem so footsore. +Good-bye! don't expect me until you see me!" + +Now I was a very new chum in those days, and had just heard of the +Maungatapu murders. These guests of mine looked most disreputable, and +were all powerful young men. I do not believe there was a single lock +or bolt or bar on any door in the whole of the little wooden house: the +large plate-chest stood outside in the verandah, and my dressing-case +could have been carried off through the ever-open bedroom window by +an enterprising thief of ten years old. As for my two maids,--the +only human beings within reach,--they were as perfectly useless on any +emergency as if they had been wax dolls. One of them had the habit of +fainting if anything happened, and the other used to tend her until she +revived, when they both sat still and shrieked. Their nerves had once +been tested by a carpenter, who was employed about the house, and cut +his hand badly; on another occasion by the kitchen chimney which took +fire; and that was the way they behaved each time. So it was useless to +look upon their presence as any safeguard; indeed one of them speedily +detected a fancied likeness to Burgess in one of the poor swaggers, and +shrieked every time she saw him. + +We were indeed three "lone, 'lorn women," all through that weary night. +I could not close my eyes; but laid awake listening to the weka's shrill +call, or the melancholy cry of the bitterns down in the swamp. With the +morning light came hope and courage; and I must say I felt ashamed of +my suspicions when my cook came to announce that the "swaggers was just +agoin' off, and wishful to say good-bye. They've been and washed up the +tin plates and pannikins and spoons as clean as clean can be; and the +one I thought favoured Burgess so much, mum, he's been and draw'd water +from the well, all that we shall want to-day; and they're very civil, +well-spoken chaps, if you please, mum!" F---- was right in his surmise, +I fancy; for there were plenty of tattooed pictures of anchors and +ships on the brawny bare arms of my departing guests. They seemed much +disappointed to find there was no work to be had on our station; but +departed, with many thanks and blessings, "over the hills and far away." + +Latterly, with increasing civilization and corresponding social economy, +there have been many attempts made by new-fangled managers of runs, more +than by the run-holders themselves, to induce these swaggers to work for +their tucker,--to use pure colonial phraseology. Several devices have +been tried, such as taking away their swags (_i.e._, their red blankets +rolled tightly into a sort of pack, which they carry on their backs, and +derive their name from), and locking them up until they had chopped a +small quantity of wood, or performed some other trifling domestic duty. +But the swagger will be led, though not driven, and what he often did of +his own accord for the sake of a nod or a smile of thanks from my pretty +maid-servants, he would not do for the hardest words which ever came out +of a boss's mouth. There are also strict rules of honesty observed among +these men, and if one swagger were to purloin the smallest article from +a station which had fed and sheltered him, every other swagger in all +the country side would immediately become an amateur detective to make +the thief give up his spoil. A pair of old boots was once missing from +a neighbouring station, and suspicion fell upon a swagger. Justice was +perhaps somewhat tardy in this instance, as it rested entirely in the +hands of every tramp who passed that way; but at the end of some +months the boots were found at home, and the innocence of the swaggers, +individually and collectively, triumphantly established. + +The only instance of harshness to a swagger which came under my notice +during three years residence in New Zealand, is the one I have alluded +to above, and contains so much dramatic interest in its details, that it +may not be out of place here. + +Although I have naturally dwelt in these papers more upon our bright +sunny weather, our clear, bracing winter days, and our balmy spring and +autumn evenings, let no intending traveller think that he will not meet +with bad weather at the Antipodes! I can only repeat what I have said +with pen and voice a hundred times before. New Zealand possesses a very +capricious and disagreeable climate: disagreeable from its constant +high winds: but it is perhaps the most singularly and remarkably healthy +place in the world. This must surely arise from the very gales which I +found so trying to my temper, for damp is a word without meaning; as for +mildew or miasma, the generation who are growing up there will not +know the meaning of the words; and in spite of a warm, bright day often +turning at five minutes warning into a snowy or wet afternoon, colds and +coughs are almost unknown. People who go out there with delicate lungs +recover in the most surprising manner; surprising, because one expects +the sudden changes of temperature, the unavoidable exposure to rain and +even snow, to kill instead of curing invalids. But the practice is very +unlike the theory in this case, and people thrive where they ought to +die. + +During my first winter in Canterbury we had only one week of _really_ +bad weather, but I felt at that time as if I had never realized before +what bad weather meant. A true "sou'-wester" was blowing from the +first to the second Monday in that July, without one moment's lull. The +bitter, furious blast swept down the mountain gorges, driving sheets of +blinding rain in a dense wall before it. Now and then the rain turned +into large snow-flakes, or the wind rose into such a hurricane that the +falling water appeared to be flashing over the drenched earth without +actually touching it. Indoors we could hardly hear ourselves speak for +the noise of the wind and rain against the shingle roof. It became a +service of danger, almost resembling a forlorn hope, to go out and drag +in logs of wet wood, or draw water from the well,--for, alas, there were +no convenient taps or snug coal-holes in our newly-erected little wooden +house. We husbanded every scrap of mutton, in very different fashion to +our usual reckless consumption, the consumption of a household which +has no butcher's bill to pay; for we knew not when the shepherd might be +able to fight his way through the storm, with half a sheep packed before +him, on sturdy little "Judy's" back. The creeks rose and poured over +their banks in angry yellow floods. Every morning casualties in the +poultry yard had to be reported, and that week cost me almost as many +fowls and ducks as my great christening party did. The first thing every +morning when I opened my eyes I used to jump up and look out of the +different windows with eager curiosity, to see if there were any signs +of a break in the weather, for I was quite unaccustomed to be pent up +like a besieged prisoner for so many succeeding days. We did not boast +of shutters in those regions, and even blinds were a luxury which were +not wasted in the little hall. Consequently, when my unsatisfactory +wanderings about the silent house--for no one else was up--led me that +dreadful stormy morning into the narrow passage called the back-hall, +I easily saw through its glass-door what seemed to me one of the most +pathetic sights my eyes had ever rested upon. + +Just outside the verandah, which is the invariable addition to +New Zealand houses, stood, bareheaded, a tall, gaunt figure, whose +rain-sodden garments clung closely to its tottering limbs. A more dismal +morning could not well be imagined: the early dawn struggling to make +itself apparent through a downpour of sleet and rain, the howling wind +(which one could almost see as it drove the vapour wall before it), and +the profound solitude and silence of all except the raging storm. + +At first I thought I must be dreaming, so silent and hopeless stood +that weird figure. My next impulse, without staying to consider my +dishevelled hair and loose wrapper, was to open the door and beckon the +poor man within the shelter of the verandah. When once I had got him +there I did not exactly know what to do with my guest, for neither fire +nor food could be procured quite so early. He crouched like a stray +dog down on the dripping mat outside the door, and murmured some +unintelligible words. In this dilemma I hastened to wake up poor F----, +who found it difficult to understand why I wanted him to get up at +daylight during a "sou'-wester." But I entreated him to go to the hall +door, whilst I flew off to get my lazy maids out of their warm beds. +With all their faults, they did not need much rousing on that occasion. +I suppose I used very forcible words to convey the misery of the object +standing outside, for I know that Mary was in floods of tears, and had +fastened her gown on over her night-gear, whilst I was still speaking; +and the cook had tumbled out of bed, and was kneeling before the kitchen +fire with her eyes shut, kindling a blaze, apparently, in her sleep. + +As soon as things were in this forward state, I returned to the +verandah, and found our swagger guest drawing a very long breath after +a good nip of pure whisky which F---- had promptly administered to him. +"I'm fair clemmed wi' cold and wet," the swagger said, still bundled up +in his comparatively sheltered corner. "I've been out on the hills the +whole night, and I am deadbeat. Might I stop here for a bit?" He asked +this very doubtfully, for it is quite against swagger etiquette to +demand shelter in the morning. For all answer he was taken by the +shoulder, and helped up. I never shall forget the poor tramp's +deprecating face, as he looked back at me, whilst he was being led +through the pretty little dining-room, with its bright carpet, on which +his clay-clogged boots and dripping garments left a muddy, as well as +a watery track. "All right," I said, with colonial brevity; and so we +escorted our strange guest through the house into the kitchen, where the +ever-ready kettle and gridiron were busy preparing tea and chops over +a blazing fire. Of course the maids screamed when they saw us, and I +do not wonder at their doing so, for neither F---- nor I looked very +respectable, with huddled on dressing-gowns and towzled hair; whilst our +foot-sore, drenched guest subsided into a chair by the door, covered +his wretched pinched face with two bony hands, and burst into tears. I +certainly never expected to see a swagger cry, and F---- declared the +sight was quite as new to him as to me. However, the poor man's tears +and helplessness gave fresh energy to my maids' treacherous nerves, and +they even suggested dry clothes. Our good-natured cadet, who at this +moment appeared on the scene, was only too happy to find some outlet for +_his_ superfluous benevolence, and hastened off, to return in a moment +or two with an old flannel shirt, dry and whole, in spite of its +faded stripes, a pair of moleskin trousers, and a huge pair of canvas +cricketing shoes. It was no time for ceremony, so we women retreated for +a few minutes into the store-room, whilst F---- and Mr. A---- made the +swagger's toilette, getting so interested in their task as even to part +his dripping hair out of his eyes. He had no swag, poor fellow, having +lost his roll of red blankets in one of the treacherous bog-holes across +the range. + +That man was exactly like a lost, starving dog. He ate an enormous +breakfast, curled himself upon some empty flour-sacks in a dry corner +of the kitchen, and slept till dinner time; then another sleep until the +supper hour, and so on, the round of he clock. All this time he never +spoke, though we were dying to hear how he had come into such a plight. +The "sou'-wester" still raged furiously out of doors without a moment's +cessation, and we were obliged to have recourse to the tins of meat kept +in the store-room for such an emergency. The shepherd told us afterwards +he had ventured out to look for some wethers, his own supply being +exhausted, but the whole mob had hidden themselves so cleverly that +neither man nor dog could discover their place of shelter. On the Monday +night, exactly a week after the outbreak of bad weather; the skies +showed signs of having exhausted themselves, and nature began to wear +a sulky air, as if her temper were but slowly recovering herself. The +learned in such matters, however, took a cheerful view of affairs, and +declared the worst to be over,--"for this bout,"--as they cautiously +added. + +Whether it was the three days of rest, warmth, and good food which +unlocked the swagger's heart, or not, I do not pretend to decide; but +that evening, over a pipe in the kitchen, he confided to Mr. A----that +he had been working his way down to the sea-coast from a station +where he had been employed, very far back in the hill ranges. The +"sou'-wester" had overtaken him about twenty miles from us, but only +five from another station, where he had applied towards the evening for +shelter, being even then drenched with rain, and worn out by struggling +through such a tremendous storm. There, for some reason which I confess +did not seem very clear, he had been refused the unvarying hospitality +extended in New Zealand to all travellers, rich or poor, squatter or +swagger, and had been directed to take a short cut across the hills to +our station, which he was assured could easily be reached in an hour or +two more. The track, a difficult one enough to strike in summer weather, +became, indeed, impossible to discover amid rushing torrents and driving +wind and rain; besides which, as the poor fellow repeated more than +once during his story, "I was fair done up when I set out, for I'd been +travelling all day." Mr. A---- told us what the man had been saying, +before we all went to bed, adding, "He seems an odd, surly kind of +creature, for although he declares he is going away the first thing +to-morrow, if the rain be over, I noticed he never said a word +approaching to thanks." + +The rain was indeed over next morning, and a flood of brilliant sunshine +awoke me "bright and early," as the country people say. It seemed +impossible to stop in bed, so I jumped up, thrust my feet into slippers, +and my arms into a warm dressing-gown, and sallied forth, opening window +after window, so as to let the sunshine into rooms which not even a +week's steady down-pour could render damp. What a morning it was, and +for mid-winter too! No haze, or fog, or vapour on all the green hills, +whose well-washed sides were glistening in a bright glow of sunlight. +For the first time, too, since the bad weather had set in, was to be +heard the incessant bleat which is music to the ears of a New Zealand +sheep-farmer. White, moving, calling patches on the hillsides told +that the sheep were returning to their favourite pastures, and a mob of +horses could be descried quietly feeding on the sunny flat. + +But I had no eyes for beauties of mountain or sky. I could do nothing +but gaze on the strange figure of the silent swagger, who knelt yes, +positively knelt, on the still wet and shining shingle which formed +an apology for a gravel path up to the back-door of the little wooden +homestead. His appearance was very different to what it had been three +days before. Now his clothes were dry and clean and mended,--my Irish +maids doing; bless their warm hearts! He had cobbled up his boots +himself, and his felt hat, which had quite recovered from its drenching, +lay at his side. The perfect rest and warmth and good food had filled +up his hollow cheeks, but still his countenance was a curious one; and +never, until my dying day, can I forget the rapture of entreaty on +that man's upturned face. It brings the tears into my own eyes now to +recollect its beseeching expression. I do not think I ever _saw_ prayer +before or since. He did not perceive me, for I had hidden behind a +sheltering curtain, to listen to his strange, earnest petitions; so he +could not know that anybody in the house was stirring, for he knelt at +the back, and all my fussings had taken place in the front, and he could +not, therefore, have been doing anything for effect. + +There, exactly where he had crouched a wretched, way-worn tramp in +pouring rain, he knelt now with the flood of sunshine streaming down +on his uplifted face, whilst he prayed for the welfare and happiness, +individually and collectively, of every living creature within the +house. Then he stood up and lifted his hat from the ground; but before +he replaced it on his head, he turned, with a gesture which would have +made the fortune of any orator,--a gesture of mingled love and farewell, +and solemnly blessed the roof-tree which had sheltered him in his hour +of need. I could not help being struck by the extraordinarily good +language in which he expressed his fervent desires, and his whole +bearing seemed quite different to that of the silent, half-starved man +we had kept in the kitchen these last three days. I watched him turn and +go, noiselessly closing the garden gate after him, and--shall I confess +it?--my heart has always felt light whenever I think of that swagger's +blessing. When we all met at breakfast I had to take his part, and tell +of the scene I had witnessed; for everybody was inclined to blame him +for having stolen away, scarcely without saying good-bye, or expressing +a word of thanks for the kindness he had received. But I knew better. + +From the sublime to the ridiculous we all know the step is but short, +especially in the human mind; and to my tender mood succeeds the +recollection of an absurd panic we once suffered from, about swaggers. +Exaggerated stories had reached us, brought by timid fat men on +horseback, with bulky pocket-books, who came to buy our wethers for the +Hokitika market, of "sticking up" having broken out on the west land. I +fear my expressions are often unintelligible to an English reader, +but in this instance I will explain. "Sticking up" is merely a concise +colonial rendering of "Your money or your life," and was originally +employed by Australian bushrangers, those terrible freebooters whose +ranks used to be always recruited from escaped convicts. Fortunately we +had no community of that class, only a few prisoners kept in a little +ricketty wooden house in Christchurch, from which an enterprising baby +might easily have escaped. I dare say as we get more civilized out +there, we shall build ourselves handsome prisons and penitentiaries; but +in those early days a story was current of a certain jailor who let all +his captives out on some festal occasion, using the tremendous threat, +that whoever had not returned by eight o'clock should be "_locked out!_" + +But to return to that particular winter evening. We had been telling +each other stories which we had heard or read of bushranging exploits, +until we were all as nervous as possible. Ghosts, or even burglar +stories, are nothing to the horror of a true bushranger story, and +F---- had made himself particularly ghastly and disagreeable by giving a +minute account of an adventure which had been told to him by one of the +survivors. + +We listened, with the wind howling outside, to F----'s horrid +second-hand story, of how one fine day up country, eight or ten +men,--station hands,--were "stuck up" by one solitary bushranger, armed +to the teeth. He tied them up one by one, and seated them all on a bench +in the sun, and deliberately fired at and wounded the youngest of the +party; then, seized with compunction, he unbound one of the captives, +and stood over him, revolver in hand, whilst he saddled and mounted a +horse, to go for a doctor to set the poor boy's broken leg. Before +the messenger had gone "a league, a league, but barely twa',"--the +freebooter recollected that he might bring somebody else back with him +besides the doctor, and flinging himself across his horse, rode after +the affrighted man, and coolly shot him dead. I really don't know how +the story ended: I believe everybody perished; but at this juncture +I declared it to be impossible to sit up any longer to listen to such +tragedies, and went to bed. + +Exactly at midnight,--the proper hour for ghosts; burglars, and +bushrangers, and such "small deer" to be about, everybody was awakened +simultaneously by a loud irregular knocking, which sounded with hollow +reverberations all through the wooden house. "Bushrangers!" we all +thought, every one of us; for although burglars may not usually knock +at hall-doors in England, it is by no means uncommon for their bolder +brethren to do so at the other end of the world. It is such a comfort to +me now, looking back on that scene to remember that our stalwart cadet +was as frightened as anybody. _He_ stood six feet one in his stockings, +and was a match for any two in the country side, and yet, I am happy to +think, he was as bad as any one. As for me, to say that my heart became +like water and my knees like soft wax, is to express in mild words my +state of abject terror. There was no need to inquire what the maids +thought, for smothered shrieks, louder and louder as each peal of +knocks vibrated through the little house, proclaimed sufficiently their +sentiments on the subject. + +Dear me, how ridiculous it all must have been! In one corner of the +ceiling of our bedroom was a little trap-door which opened into an attic +adjoining that where the big cadet slept. Now whilst F---- was hurriedly +taking down his double-barrelled gun from its bracket just below this +aperture, and I held the candlestick with so shaky a hand that the +extinguisher clattered like a castanet, this door was slowly lifted up, +and a large white face, with dishevelled stubbly hair and wide-open blue +eyes, looked down through the cobwebs, saying in a husky whisper, "Could +you let me have a rifle, or any thing?" This was our gallant cadet, who +had no idea of presenting himself at a disadvantage before the foe. +I had desperately seized a revolver, but F---- declared that if I +persisted in carrying it I certainly should go first, as he did not wish +to be shot in the back. + +We held a hurried council of war,--Mr. A---- assisting through the +trap door, and the maids breathing suggestions through the +partition-planks,--but the difficulty consisted in determining at which +door the knocking was going on. Some said one, and some another (for +there were many modes of egress from the tiny dwelling); but at last +F---- cried decidedly, "We must try them all in succession," and +shouldering his gun, with the revolver sticking in the girdle of his +dressing-gown, sallied valiantly forth. I don't know what became of +Mr. A----: I believe he took up a position with the rifle pointing +downwards; the maids retreated beneath their blankets, and I (too +frightened to stay behind) followed closely, armed with an Indian +boar-spear. F---- flung the hall door wide open, and called out, "Who's +there?" but no one answered. The silence was intense, and so was the +cold; therefore we returned speedily indoors to consult. "It must be at +the back door," I urged; adding, "that is the short cut down the valley, +where bushrangers would be most likely to come." "Bushrangers, you silly +child!" laughed F----. "It's most likely a belated swagger, or else +somebody who is playing us a trick." However as he spoke a succession of +fierce and loud knocks resounded through the whole house. "It must be +at the kitchen door," F---- said. "Come along, and stand well behind me +when I open the door." + +But we never opened the door; for on our way through the kitchen, with +its high-pitched and unceiled roof,--a very cavern for echoes,--we +discovered the source of the noise, and of our fright. Within a large +wooden packing-case lay a poor little lamb, and its dying throes had +wakened us all up, as it kicked expiring kicks violently against the +side of the box. It was my doing bringing it indoors, for I never +_could_ find it in my heart to leave a lamb out on the hills if we came +across a dead ewe with her baby bleating desolately and running round +her body. F---- always said, "You cannot rear a merino lamb indoors; the +poor little thing will only die all the same in a day or two;" and then +I am sorry to say he added in an unfeeling manner, "They are not worth +much now," as if that could make any difference! I had brought this, +as I had brought scores of others, home in my arms from a long distance +off; fed it out of a baby's bottle, rubbed it dry, and put it to sleep +in a warm bed of hay at the bottom of this very box. They had all died +quietly, after a day or two, in spite of my devotion and nursing, but +this little foundling kicked herself out of the world with as much noise +as would have sufficed to summon a garrison to surrender. It is all +very well to laugh at it now, but we were, five valiant souls in all, as +thoroughly frightened at the time as we could well be. + +The only real harm a swagger did me was to carry off one of my best +maidservants as his wife, but as he had 300 pounds in the bank at +Christchurch, and was only travelling about looking for work, and they +have lived in great peace and prosperity ever since, I suppose I ought +not to complain. This swagger was employed in deepening our well, and +Mary was always going to see how he was getting on, so he used to make +love to her, looking up from the bottom of a deep shaft, and shouting +compliments to her from a depth of sixty feet. What really won her +Irish heart, though, was his calmly putting a rival, a shepherd, into +a water-butt. She could not resist that, so they were married, and are +doing well. + +Let no one despise swaggers. They are merely travelling workmen, and +would pay for their lodging if it was the custom to do so. I am told +that even now they are fast becoming things of the past; for one could +not "swagger" by railroad, and most of our beautiful happy vallies will +soon have a line of rails laid down throughout its green and peaceful +length. + + + +Chapter X: Changing servants. + + +To the eyes of an English housewife the title of this chapter must +appear a very bad joke indeed, and the amusement what the immortal Mrs. +Poyser would call "a poor tale." Far be it from me to make light of the +misery of a tolerably good servant coming to you after three months' +service, just as you were beginning to feel settled and comfortable, +and announcing with a smile that she was going to be married; or, with +a flood of tears, that she found it "lonesome." Either of these two +contingencies was pretty sure to arise at least four times a year on a +station. + +At first I determined to do all I could to make their new home so +attractive to my two handmaidens that they would not wish to leave it +directly. In one of Wilkie Collins' books an upholsterer is represented +as saying that if you want to domesticate a woman, you should surround +her with bird's-eye maple and chintz. That must have been exactly my +idea, for the two rooms which I prepared for my maidservants were small, +indeed, yet exquisitely pretty. Of course I should not have been so +foolish as to buy any of the unnecessary and dainty fittings with which +they were decorated, but as all the furniture and belongings of an +English house, a good deal larger than our station home, had been taken +out to it, there were sundry toilet tables, etc., whose destination +would have been a loft over the stable, if I had not used them for my +maids. + + +I had seen and chosen two very respectable young women in Christchurch, +one as a cook, and the other as a housemaid. The cook, Euphemia by +name, was a tall, fat, flabby woman, with a pasty complexion, but a nice +expression of face, and better manners than usual. She turned out to be +very good natured, perfectly ignorant though willing to learn, and was +much admired by the neighbouring _cockatoos_, or small farmers. Lois the +housemaid, was the smallest and skimpiest and most angular girl I ever +beheld. At first I regarded her with deep compassion, imagining that +she was about fifteen years of age, and had been cruelly ill-treated and +starved. How she divined what was passing in my mind I cannot tell, but +during our first interview she suddenly fired up, and informed me +that she was twenty-two years old, that she was the seventh child of +a seventh child, and therefore absolutely certain to achieve some +wonderful piece of good luck; and furthermore, that she had been much +admired in her own part of the country, and was universally allowed to +be "the flower of the province." This statement, delivered with great +volubility and defiant jerkiness of manner, rather took my breath away; +but it was a case of "Hobson's choice" just then about servants, and as +I was assured she was a respectable girl, I closed with her terms (25 +pounds a year and all found) on the spot. The fat pale cook was to get +35 pounds. Now-a-days I hear that wages are somewhat lower, but the +sums I have named were the average figures of six or seven years ago, +especially "up-country." + +Here I feel impelled to repeat the substance of what I have stated +elsewhere,--that these rough, queer servants were, as a general rule, +perfectly honest, and of irreproachable morals, besides working, +in their own curious fashion, desperately hard. Our family was an +exceptionally small one, and the "place" was considered "light, you +bet," but even then it seemed to me as if both my domestics worked very +hard. In the first place there was the washing; two days severe work, +under difficulties which they thought nothing of. All the clothes had to +be taken to a boiler fixed in the side of a hill, for the convenience of +the creek, and washed and rinsed under a blazing sun (for of course it +never was attempted on a wet day) and amid clouds of sand-flies. Not +until evening was this really hard day's work over, and the various +garments fluttering in the breeze up a valley behind the house. The +chances were strongly in favour of a tremendous nor'-wester coming down +this said valley during the night, and in that case there would not be a +sign next morning of any of the clothes. Heavy things, such as sheets or +table cloths, might be safely looked for under lee of the nearest gorse +hedge, but it would be impossible even to guess where the lighter and +more diaphanous articles had been whisked to. A week afterwards the +shepherds used to bring in stray cuffs and collars, and upon one +occasion "Judy," the calf, was discovered in a paddock hard by, +breakfasting off my best pocket handkerchiefs with an excellent +appetite. Of course everything was dirty, and needed to be washed over +again. We had a mangle, which greatly simplified matters on the second +day, but it used not to be uncommon on back-country stations to get +up the fine things with a flat stone, heated in the wood ashes, for an +iron. After the washing operations had been brought to a more or less +successful ending, there came the yeast making and the baking, followed +by the brewing of sugar beer, preserves had to be made, bacon cured, all +sorts of things to be done, besides the daily duties of scrubbing and +cleaning, and cooking at all hours for stray visitors or "swaggers." + +But I am overcome with contrition at perceiving into what a digression I +have wandered; having strayed from my maids' rooms to their duties. +They arrived as usual on a dray late in the evening, tired and wearied +enough, poor souls. In those early days I had not yet plucked up courage +to try my hand in the kitchen, and our meals had been left to the charge +of F----, who, whatever he may be in other relations of life, is a vile +cook; and our good-natured cadet Mr. U----, who was exceedingly willing, +but profoundly ignorant of the elements of cookery. For fear of being +tempted into another digression, I will briefly state that during that +week I lived in a chronic state of hunger and heartburn, and sought +forgetfulness from repeated attacks of indigestion, by decorating my +servants' rooms. They opened into each other, and it would have been +hard to find two prettier little nests. Each had its shining brass +bedstead with chintz hangings, its muslin-draped toilette table, and its +daintily curtained window, besides a pretty carpet. I can remember now +the sort of dazed look with which Euphemia regarded a room such as she +had never seen; whilst Lois considered it to be an instalment of her +good luck, and proceeded to contemplate her sharp and elfish countenance +in her looking-glass, pronouncing it as her opinion that she wanted more +colour. That she certainly did, and she might have added, more flesh +and youthfulness, while she was about it. However, they were greatly +delighted, and Euphemia who was of a grateful and affectionate +disposition, actually thanked me, for having with my own hands arranged +such pretty rooms for them. + +This was a very good beginning. They were both hard-working, civil +girls, and got on very well together, leaving me plenty of leisure to +attend to the quantities of necessary arrangements which have to be made +when you are settling yourself for good, fifty miles from a shop, and +on a spot where no other human being has ever lived before. F---- +congratulated myself in private on my exceptional good luck, and +attributed it partly to my having followed the Upholsterer's advice +in that book of Mr. Wilkie Collins. But as it turned out, F---- was +dwelling in a fool's paradise. In vain had it been pointed out to me +that a certain stalwart north countryman, whose shyness could only be +equalled by his appetite, had been a most regular attendant for some +weeks past at our Sunday evening services, accepting the offer of tea +in the kitchen, afterwards, with great alacrity. I scouted these +insinuations, appealing to the general sense of the public as to whether +Moffatt had _ever_ been known to refuse a meal anywhere, or under any +circumstances, and declaring that, if he was "courting," it was being +done in solemn silence, for never a sound filtered through the thin +wooden planks between the kitchen and the dining room, except the +clatter of a vigorously plied knife and fork, for Moffatt's teas always +included a shoulder of mutton. + +But I was wrong and others were right. Early in October, our second +spring month, I chanced to get up betimes one delicious, calm morning, a +morning when it seemed a new and exquisite pleasure to open each window +in succession, and fill one's lungs with a deep, deep breath of that +heavenly atmosphere, at once so fresh and so pure. + +Quiet as the little homestead lay, nestled among the hills, there were +too many morning noises stirring among the animals for any one to feel +lonely or dull, I should have thought. From a distance came a regular, +monotonous, lowing sound. That was "Hetty," the pretty little yellow +Alderney, announcing from the swamps that she and her two female friends +were quite ready to be milked. Their calves answered them dutifully from +the English grass paddock, and between the two I could see Mr. U----'s +tall figure stalking down the flat with his cattle dog at his heels, and +hear his merry whistle shrilling through the silent air. Then all the +ducks and fowls about the place were inquiring, in noisy cackle, how +long it would be before breakfast was ready, whilst "Helen's" whinneying +made me turn my head to see her, with a mob of horses at her heels, +coming over the nearest ridge on the chance of a stray carrot or two +going begging. All the chained-up dogs were pulling at the staples of +their fastenings, and entreating by short, joyous barks, to be allowed +just one good frisk and roll in the sparkling dewy grass around. But +even I, universal spoiler of animals that I am, was obliged to harden my +heart against their noisy appeals; for quite close to the stable, on the +nearest hill-side, an immense mob of sheep and young lambs were feeding. +That steep incline had been burnt six weeks before, and was now as green +as the clover field at its base, affording a delicious pasturage to +these nursing mothers and their frisky infants. I think I see and hear +it all now. The moving white patches on the hill-side, the incessant +calling and answering, the racing and chasing among the curly little +merino lambs, and above all the fair earth the clear vault of an almost +cloudless sky bent itself in a deep blue dome. Just over the eastern +hills the first long lances of the sun lay in bright shafts of silver +sheen on the dew-laden tussocks, and that peculiar morning fragrance +rose up from the moist ground, which is as much the reward of the early +riser as the early worm is of the bird. + +Was it a morning for low spirits or sobs and sighs? Surely not; and +yet as I turned the handle of the kitchen door those melancholy sounds +struck my ear. I had intended to make my entrance with a propitiatory +smile, suitable to such a glorious morning, proceed to pay my damsels a +graceful compliment on their somewhat unusual early rising, and wind up +with a request for a cup of tea. But all these friendly purposes went +out of my head when I beheld Euphemia seated on the rude wooden settle, +with its chopped tussock mattrass, which had been covered with a bright +cotton damask, and was now called respectfully, "the kitchen sofa." Her +arm was round Lois's waist, and she had drawn that young lady's shock +head of red curls down on her capacious bosom. Both were crying as if +their hearts would break, and startled as I felt to see these floods of +tears, it struck me how incongruous their attitude looked against +the background of the large window through which all nature looked so +smiling and sparkling. The kettle was singing on the fire, everything +seemed bright and snug and comfortable indoors. "What in the world has +happened?" I gasped, really frightened. + +"Nothing, mem: its only them sheep," sobbed Euphemia, "calling like. +They always makes me cry. Your tea 'll be ready directly, mem" (this +last with a deep sigh.) + +"Is it possible you are crying about that?" I inquired. "Yes, mem, +yes," said Euphemia, in heart-broken accents, clasping Lois, who was +positively howling, closer to her sympathetic heart. "Its terrible to +hear 'em. They keeps calling and answering each other, and that makes +us think of our home and friends." Now both these women had starved as +factory "hands" all their lives, and I used to feel much more inclined +to cry when they told me, all unconscious of the pathos, stories of +their baby work and hardships. Certainly they had never seen a sheep +until they came to New Zealand, and as they had particularly mentioned +the silence which used to reign supreme at the manufactory during work +hours, I could not trace the connection between a dingy, smoky, factory, +and a bright spring morning in this delightful valley. "What nonsense!" +I cried, half laughing and half angry. "You can't be in earnest. Why you +must both be ill: let me give you each a good dose of medicine." I said +this encouragingly, for there was nothing in the world Euphemia liked +so much as good substantial physic, and the only thing I ever needed to +keep locked up from her was the medicine drawer. + +Euphemia seemed touched and grateful, and her face brightened up +directly, but Lois looked up with her frightful little face more ugly +than usual, as she said, spitefully, "Physic won't make them nasty sheep +hold their tongues. I'm sure _this_ isn't the place for me to find my +luck, so I'd rather go, if you please, mem. I've prospected-up every one +o' them gullies and never seen the colour yet, so it ain't any good my +stopping." + +This was quite a fresh light thrown upon the purpose of Lois's long +lonely rambles. She used to be off and away, over the hills whenever she +had finished her daily work, and I encouraged her rambles, thinking the +fresh air and exercise must do her a world of good. Never had I guessed +that the sordid little puss was turning over every stone in the creek in +her search for the shining flakes. + +"Why did you think you should find gold here?" I asked. + +"Because they do say it lies in all these mountain streams," she +answered sullenly; "and I'm always dreaming of nuggets. Not that a girl +with my face and figure wants 'dust' to set her off, however. But if its +all the same to you, mem, I'd rather leave when Euphemia does." + +"Are _you_ going, then?" I inquired, turning reproachfully to my +pale-faced cook, who actually coloured a little as she answered, "Well, +mem, you see Moffatt says he's got his window frames in now, and he'll +glass them the very first chance, and I think it'll be more company for +me on Saddler's Flat. So if you'll please to send me down in the dray, I +should be obliged." + +Here was a pretty upset, and I went about my poultry-feeding with a +heavy heart. How was I to get fresh servants, and above all, what was +I to do for cooking during the week they were away? These questions +fortunately settled themselves in rather an unexpected manner. I heard +of a very nice willing girl who was particularly anxious to come up +as housemaid, to my part of the world, on condition that I should also +engage as cook her sister, who was leaving a place on the opposite side +of a range of high hills to the south. I shall only briefly say that +all inquiries about these damsels proved satisfactory, and I could see +Euphemia and Lois depart, with tolerable equanimity. The former wept, +and begged for a box of Cockles' pills; but Lois tossed her elfish head, +and gave me to understand that she had never been properly admired or +appreciated whilst in my service. + + + +Chapter XII: Culinary troubles. + + +I want to lodge a formal complaint against all cookery books. They are +not the least use in the world, until you know how to cook! and then you +can do without them. Somebody ought to write a cookery book which would +tell an unhappy beginner whether the water in which she proposes to put +her potatoes is to be hot or cold; how long such water is to boil; how +she is to know whether the potatoes are done enough; how to dry +them after they have boiled, and similar things, which make all the +difference in the world. + +To speak like Mr. Brooke for a moment. "Rice now: I have dabbled in that +a good deal myself, and found it wouldn't do at all." + +Of course in time, and after many failures, I did learn to boil a +potato which would not disgrace me, and to bake bread, besides in time +attaining to puddings and cakes, of which I don't mind confessing I was +modestly proud. It used to be a study, I am told, to watch my face +when a cake had turned out as it ought. Gratified vanity at the lavish +encomiums bestowed on it, and horrified dismay at the rapidity with +which a good sized cake disappeared down the throats of the company, +warred together in the most artless fashion. The reflection would arise +that it was almost a pity it should be eaten up so very fast; yet was it +not a fine thing to be able to make such a cake! and oh, would the next +be equally good? + +One lesson I leaned in my New Zealand kitchen,--and that was not to +be too hard on the point of breakages; for no one knows, unless from +personal experience, how true was the Irish cook's apology for breaking +a dish, when she said that it let go of her hand. I declare that I used, +at last, to regard my plates and dishes, cups and saucers, yea, even the +pudding basons, not as so much china and delf, but as troublesome imps, +possessed with an insane desire to dash themselves madly on the kitchen +floor upon the least provocation. Every woman knows what a slippery +thing to hold is a baby in its tub. I am in a position to pronounce that +wet plates and dishes are far more difficult to keep hold of. They have +a way of leaping out of your fingers, which must be felt to be +believed. After my first week in my kitchen I used to wonder, not at the +breakages, but at anything remaining unbroken. + +My maids had a very ingenious method of disposing of the fragments of +their pottery misfortunes. At the back of the house an open patch of +ground, thickly covered with an under-growth of native grass, and the +usual large proportion of sheltering tussocks stretched away to the foot +of the nearest hill. This was burned every second year or so, and +when the fire had passed away the sight it revealed was certainly very +curious. Beneath each tussock had lain concealed a small heap of broken +china, which must have been placed there in the dead of the night. The +delinquents had evidently been at the pains to perfect their work of +destruction by reducing the china articles in question, to the smallest +imaginable fragments, for fear of a protruding corner betraying the +clever _cache_; and the contrast afforded to the blackened ground on +which they lay, by the gay patches of tiny fragments huddled together, +was droll indeed. That was the moment for recognising the remains of a +favourite jug or plate, or even a beloved tea-cup. There they were all +laid in neat little heaps, and the best of it was that the existing cook +always declared loudly her astonishment at the base ingenuity of such +conduct, although I could not fail to recognise many a plate or dish +which had disappeared from the land of the living during her reign. + +All housekeepers will sympathise with my feelings at seeing an amateur +scullion, who had distinguished himself greatly in the Balaklava charge, +but who appeared to have no idea that boiling water would scald his +fingers,--drop the top plate of a pile which he had placed in a tub +before him. In spite of my entreaties to be allowed to "wash-up" myself, +he gallantly declared that he could do it beautifully, and that the +great thing was to have the water very hot. In pursuance of this theory +he poured the contents of a kettle of boiling water over his plates, +plunged his hand in, and dropped the top plate, with a shriek of +dismay, on those beneath it. Out of consideration for that well-meaning +emigrant's feelings, I abstain from publishing the list of the killed +and wounded, briefly stating that he might almost as well have fired +a shot among my poor plates. A perfect fountain of water and chips and +bits of china flew up into the air, and I really believe that hardly +one plate remained uncracked. So much for one's friends. I must candidly +state that although the servants broke a good deal, we destroyed twice +as much amongst us during the week which must needs elapse between their +departure and, the arrival of the new ones. + +Shall I ever forget the guilty pallor which overspread the bronzed and +bearded countenance of one of my guests, who particularly wished to dust +the drawing-room ornaments, when on hearing a slight crash I came into +the room and found him picking up the remains of a china shepherdess? +Considering everything, I kept my temper remarkably well, merely +observing that he had better go into the verandah and sit down with a +book and his pipe, and send Joey in to help me. Joey was a little black +monkey from Panama, who had to be provided with broken bits of delf or +china in order that he might amuse himself by breaking them ingeniously +into smaller fragments. + +But the real object of this chapter was to relate some of my own private +misfortunes in the cooking line. Once, when Alice S---- was staying with +me and we had no servants, she and I undertook to bake a very infantine +and unweaned pig. It was all properly arranged for us, and, making up a +good fire, we proceeded to cook the little monster. + +Hours passed by; all the rest of the dinner got itself properly cooked +at the right time, but the pig presented exactly the same appearance at +dewy eve as it had done in the early morn. We looked rather crest-fallen +at its pale condition when one o'clock struck, but I said cheerfully, +"Oh, I daresay it will be ready by supper!" But it was not: not a bit of +it. Of course we searched in those delusive cookery books, but they only +told us what sauces to serve with a roasted pig, or how to garnish it, +entering minutely into a disquisition upon whether a lemon or an orange +had better be stuck into its mouth. We wanted to know how to cook it, +and why it would not get itself baked. About an hour before supper-time +I grew desperate at the anticipation of the "chaff" Alice and I would +certainly have to undergo if this detestable animal could not be +produced in a sufficiently cooked state by evening. We took it out of +the oven and contemplated it with silence and dismay. Fair as ever did +that pig appear, and as if it had no present intention of being cooked +at all. A sudden idea came into our heads at the same moment, but it was +Alice who first whispered, "Let us cut off its head." "Yes," I cried; "I +am sure that prevents its roasting or baking, or whatever it is." So we +got out the big carving knife and cut off the piggy's head. Far be it +from me to offer any solution of the theory why the head should have +interfered with the baking process, but all I know is, that, like the +old woman in the nursery song, everything began to go right, and we got +our supper that night. + +Has anybody ever reflected on how difficult it must be to get a chimney +swept without ever a sweep or even a brush? Luckily our chimneys were +short and wide, and we used a good deal of wood; so in three years the +kitchen chimney only needed to be cleansed twice. The first time it was +cleared of soot by the simple process of being set on fire, but as a +light nor'-wester was blowing, the risk to the wooden roof became very +great and could only be met by spreading wet blankets over the shingles. +We had a very narrow escape of losing our little wooden house, and it +was fortunate it happened just at the men's dinner hour when there was +plenty of help close at hand. However great my satisfaction at feeling +that at last my chimney had been thoroughly swept, there was evidently +too much risk about the performance to admit of its being repeated, so +about a year afterwards I asked an "old chum" what I was to do with +my chimney. "Sweep it with a furze-bush, to be sure," she replied. I +mentioned this primitive receipt at home, and the idea was carried out +a day or two later by one man mounting on the roof of the house whilst +another remained in the kitchen; the individual on the roof threw down +a rope to the one below, who fastened a large furze-bush in the middle, +they each held an end of this rope, and so pulled it up and down the +chimney until the man below was as black as any veritable sweep, and had +to betake himself, clothes and all, to a neighbouring creek. As for the +kitchen, its state cannot be better described than in my Irish cook's +words, who cried, "Did mortial man ever see sich a ridiklous mess? +Arrah, why couldn't ye let it be thin?" But for all that she set bravely +to work and got everything clean and nice once more, merely stipulating +that the next time we were going to sweep chimney we should let her know +beforehand, that she might go somewhere "right away." + +I feel, however, that in all these reminiscences I am straying widely +from the point which was before my mind when I began this chapter, and +that is the delusiveness of a cookery book. No book which I have ever +seen tells you, for instance, how to boil rice properly. They all insist +that the grains must be white and dry and separate, but they omit to +describe the process by which these results can be attained. They tell +you what you are to do with your rice after it is boiled, but not how +to boil it. The fact is, I suppose, that the people who write such books +began so early to be cooks themselves, that they forget there ever was a +time when such simple things were unknown to them. + +Even when I had, after many failures, mastered the art of boiling rice, +and also of making an excellent curry,--for which accomplishment I was +indebted to the practical teaching of a neighbour,--there used still +to be misfortunes in store for me. One of these caused me such a bitter +disappointment that I have never quite forgotten it. This was the manner +of it. We were without servants. My readers must not suppose that such +was our chronic condition, but when you come to change your servants +three or four times a year, and have to "do" for yourself each time +during the week which must elapse before the arrival of new ones, there +is an ample margin for every possible domestic misadventure. If any +doubt me, let them try for themselves. + +On this special occasion, which proved to be nearly the last, my mind +was easy, for the simple reason that I was now independent of cookery +books. I had puzzled out all the elementary parts of the science for +myself, and had no misgivings on the subject of potatoes or even peas. +So confident was I, and vain, that I volunteered to make a curry for +breakfast. Such a savoury curry as it was, and it turned out to be all +that the heart of a hungry man could desire; so did the rice: I really +felt proud of that rice; each grain kept itself duly apart from its +fellow, and was as soft and white and plump as possible. Everything +went well, and I had plenty of assistants to carry in the substantial +breakfast as fast as it was ready: the coffee, toast, all the other +things had gone in; even the curry had been borne off amid many +compliments, and now it only remained for me to dish up the rice. + +Imagine the scene. The bright pretty kitchen, with its large window +through which you could see the green hills around dotted with sheep; +the creek chattering along just outside, whilst close to the back door +loitered a crowd of fowls and ducks on the chance of fate sending them +something extra to eat. Beneath the large window, and just in front of +it, stood a large deal table, and it used to be my custom to transfer +the contents of the saucepans to the dishes at that convenient place. +Well, I emptied the rice into its dish, and gazed fondly at it for +a moment: any cook might have been proud of that beautiful heap of +snow-white grains. I had boiled a great quantity, more than necessary +it seemed, for although the dish was piled up almost as high as it would +hold, some rice yet remained in the saucepan. + +Oh, that I had been content to leave it there! But no: with a certain +spasmodic frugality which has often been my bane, I shook the saucepan +vehemently, in order to dislodge some more of its contents into my +already full dish. As I did so, my treacherous wrist, strained by the +weight of the saucepan, gave way, and with the rapidity of a conjurer's +trick I found the great black saucepan seated,--yes, that is the only +word for it,--seated in the midst of my heap of rice, which was now +covered by fine black powder from its sooty outside. All the rice was +utterly and completely spoiled. I don't believe that five clean grains +were left in the dish There was nothing for it but to leave it to get +cold and then throw it all out for the fowls, who don't mind _riz au +noir_ it seems. Although I feel more than half ashamed to confess it, I +am by no means sure I did not retire into the store-room and shed a tear +over the fate of that rice. Everybody else laughed, but I was dreadfully +mortified and vexed. + + + +Chapter XIII: Amateur Servants. + + +I flattered myself on a certain occasion that I had made some very +artful arrangements to provide the family with something to eat during +the servants' absence. I had been lamenting the week of experiments in +food which would be sure to ensue so soon as the dray should leave, +in the hearing of a gallant young ex-dragoon, who had come out to New +Zealand to try and see if one could gratify tastes, requiring, say a +thousand a year to provide for, on an income of 120 pounds. He was +just finding out that it was quite as difficult to manage this in the +Southern as in the Northern Hemisphere, but his hearty cheery manner, +and enormous stock of hope, kept him up for some time. + +"I'll come and cook for you," he cried. "I can cook like a bird. But +I can't wash up. No, no: it burns too much. If you can get somebody +to wash up, I'll cook. And just look here: it would be very nice if we +could have some music after dinner. You've got a piano, haven't you? +That's right. Well, now, don't you ask that pretty Miss A----, who has +just come out from England, to come and stop with you, and then we could +have some music?" + +"Where did you learn to cook?" I inquired, suspiciously; for F----had +also assured me _he_ could cook, and this had upset my confidence. + +"On the west coast; to be sure! Ask Vere, and Williams and Taylor, and +everybody, if they _ever_ tasted such pies as I used to make them." +My countenance must have still looked rather doubtful, because I well +remember sundry verbal testimonials of capability being produced; and as +I was still very ignorant of the rudiments of the science of cookery, +I shrank from assuming the whole responsibility of the family meals. So +the household was arranged in this way:--Captain George, head cook; +Mr. U----, scullery-maid; Miss A----, housemaid; myself, +lady-superintendent; Mr. Forsyth (a young naval officer), butler. On +the principle of giving honour to whom honour is due, this gallant +lieutenant deserves special mention for the way he cleaned glass. He did +not pay much attention to his silver, but his glass would have passed +muster at a club. The only drawback was the immense time he took over +each glass, and the way he followed either Miss A---- or me all about +the house, holding a tumbler in one hand, and a long, clean glass-cloth +in the other, calling upon us to admire the polish of the crystal. To +clean two tumblers would be a good day's work for him. From Monday to +Saturday (when the dray returned), this state of things went on. Of +course I had taken the precaution of having a good supply of bread made +beforehand, besides cakes and biscuits, tarts and pies; everything to +save trouble. But it was not of much use, for, alleging that they were +working so hard, the young men, F---- at their head, though I was always +telling him he was married and ought to know better, set to work and ate +up everything immediately, as completely as if they had been locusts. +And then, they were all so dreadfully wild and unmanageable! Mine was by +far the hardest task of all, the keeping them in any sort of order. For +instance, Captain George declared one day, that if there was one thing +he did better than another, it was to make jam. Consequently a fatigue +party was ordered out to gather strawberries, and, after more than half +had been eaten on the way to the house, a stewpan was filled. I had to +do most of the skimming, as Captain George wanted to practice a duet +with Miss A----. I may as well mention here that we never had any +opportunity of seeing how the jam kept, because the smell pervaded the +whole house to such an extent, that, declaring they felt like schoolboys +again, the gentlemen fell on my half dozen pots of preserves in a +body, carried them off, and ate them all up then and there, announcing +afterwards, there had just been a pot a-piece. + +It was really a dreadful time, although we got well cooked _plats_, for +Captain George wasted quite as much as he used. The pigs fed sumptuously +that week on his failures, in sauces, minces; puddings, and what not. He +had insisted on our making him a paper cap and a linen apron, or rather +a dozen linen aprons, for he was perpetually blackening his apron and +casting it aside. Then, he used suddenly to cease to take any interest +in his occupation, and, seating himself sideways on the kitchen dresser, +begin to whistle through a whole opera, or repeat pages of poetry. I +tried the experiment of banishing Miss A---- from the kitchen during +cooking hours, but a few bars played on the piano were quite enough to +distract my cook from his work. My only quiet time was the afternoon, +when about four o'clock, my amateur servants all went out for a ride, +and left me in peace for a couple of hours. I had enough to do during +that short time to tidy up; to collect the scattered books and music, +and prepare the tea-supper, for which they came back in tearing spirits, +and frantically hungry, between seven and eight o'clock. After this meal +had been cleared away, and Mr. U---- and I had washed up (the others +declaring they were too tired to stir), we all used to adjourn to the +verandah. It happened to be an exceptionally _still_ week, no dry, hot +nor'-westers, nor cold, wet sou'-westers, and it was perfectly delicious +to sit out in the verandah and rest, after the labours of the day, +in our cane easy-chairs. The balmy air was so soft and fresh, and the +intense silence all around so profound. Unfortunately there was a full +moon. I say "unfortunately," because the flood of pale light suggested +to these dreadful young men the feasibility of having what they called +a "servant's ball." In vain I declared that the housekeeper was never +expected to dance. "Oh, yes!" laughed Captain George. "I've often danced +with a housekeeper, and very jolly it was too. Come along! F----, _make_ +her dance." And I was forced to gallopade up and down that verandah till +I felt half dead with fatigue. The boards had a tremendous spring, and +the verandah (built by F----, by the way), was very wide and roomy, so +it made an excellent ball-room. As for the trifling difficulty about +music, that was supplied by Captain George and Mr. U---- whistling in +turn, time being kept by clapping the top and bottom of my silver butter +dish together, cymbal-wise. Oh, dear! It takes my breath away now even +to think of those evenings! I see Alice A---- flitting about in her +white dress and fern-leaf wreath, dancing like the slender sylph she +really was, but never can I forget the odd effect of the gentlemen's +feet! No one had their dress boots up at the station, and as Alice and +I firmly declined to dance with anybody who wore "Cookham" boots (great +heavy things with nails in the soles), they had no other course open to +them except to wear their smart slippers. There were slippers of purple +velvet, embroidered with gold; others of blue kid, delicately traced in +crimson lines; foxes heads stared at us in startling perspective from a +scarlet ground; or black jim-crow figures disported themselves on orange +tent-stitch. Then these slippers were all more or less of an easy fit, +and had a way of flying out on the lawn suddenly, startling my dear dog +Nettle out of his first sleep. + +Ah, well! that may be an absurd bit of one's life to look back upon, but +its days were bright and innocent enough. Health was so perfect that the +mere sensation of being alive became happiness, and all the noise of the +eager, bustling, pushing world, seemed shut away by those steep hills +which folded our quiet valley in their green arms. People have often +said to me since, "Surely you would not like to have lived there for +ever?" Perhaps not. I can only say that three years of that calm, +idyllic life, held no weary hour for me, and I am quite sure that quiet +time was a great blessing to me in many ways. First of all, in health, +for a person must be in a very bad way indeed for New Zealand air not to +do them a world of good; next, in teaching me, amid a great deal of fun +and laughter, sundry useful accomplishments, not easily learned in our +luxurious civilization; and, lastly, those few years of seclusion from +the turmoil of life brought leisure to think out one's own thoughts, and +to sift them from other peoples' ideas. Under such circumstances, it is +hard if "the unregarded river of our life," as Matthew Arnold so finely +call it be not perceived, for one then + + "---- Becomes aware of his life's flow + And bears its winding murmur, and he sees + The meadows where it glides, the sun, the breeze; + And there arrives a lull in the hot race, + Wherein he doth for ever chase + That flying and elusive shadow, rest." + +One good effect of my sufferings with a house full of unruly volunteers, +was that during the brief stay (only two months), of my next cook, I +set to work assiduously to learn as many kitchen mysteries as she could +teach me, and so became independent of Captain George or F----, or any +other amateur, good, bad, or indifferent. + +Nothing could be more extraordinary than the way in which the two +affectionate sisters, mentioned [earlier] and who succeeded Euphemia and +Lois, quarrelled. They were very unlike each other in appearance, and +one fruitful source of bickering arose from their respective styles of +beauty. Not only did they wrangle and rave at each other all the day +long, during every moment of their spare time, but after they had gone +to bed, we could hear them quite plainly calling out to each other from +their different rooms. If I begged them to be quiet, there might be +silence for a moment, but it would shortly be broken by Maria, calling +out, "I say, Dinah, don't you go for to wear green, my girl. I only +tell you friendly, but you're a deal too yellow for that. It suits _me_, +'cause I'm so fresh and rosy, but you never _will_ have my 'plexion, +not if you live to be eighty. Good night. I thought I'd just mention it +while I remembered." This used to aggravate Dinah dreadfully, and she +would retaliate by repeating some complimentary speech of Old Ben's, or +Long Tom's, the stockman, and then there would be no peace for an hour. + +Their successors were Clarissa and Eunice. Eunice wept sore for a +whole month, over her sweeping and cleaning. To this day I have not the +dimmest idea _why_. She gave me warning, amid floods of tears, directly +she arrived, though I could not make out any other tangible complaint +than that "the dray had jolted as never was;" and to Clarissa, I gave +warning the first day I came into the kitchen. + +She received me seated on the kitchen table, swinging her legs, which +did not nearly touch the floor. She had carefully arranged her position +so as to turn her back towards me, and she went on picking her teeth +with a hair-pin. I stood aghast at this specimen of colonial manners, +which was the more astonishing as I knew the girl had lived in the +service of a gentleman's family in the North of England for some time +before she sailed. + +"Dear me, Clarissa," I cried, "is that the way you behaved at Colonel +St. John's?" + +Clarissa looked at me very coolly over her shoulder (I must mention she +was a very pretty girl, blue-eyed and rosy-cheeked, but with _such_ a +temper!) and, giving her plump shoulders a little shrug, said, "No, in +course not: _they_ was gentlefolks, they was." + +I confess I felt rather nettled at this, and yet it was difficult to +be angry with a girl who looked like a grown up and very pretty baby. I +restrained my feelings and said, "Well, I should like you to behave here +as you did there. Suppose you get off the table and come and look what +we can find in the store room." + +"I _have_ looked round," she declared: "there 'aint much to be seen." My +patience began to run short, and I said very firmly, "You must get off +the table directly, Clarissa, and stand and speak properly; or I shall +send you down to Christchurch again." I suppose that was exactly what +the damsel wished, for she made no movement; whereat I said in great +wrath, "Very well, then you shall leave at the end of a month." And so +she did, having bullied everybody out of their lives during that time. + +Whilst we are on the subject of manners, it may not be out of place to +relate a little episode of my early days "up country." I think I have +alluded [in "Station Life in New Zealand"] to our book club; but I +don't know that it has been explained that I used to change the books on +Sunday afternoon, after our little evening service. It would have been +impossible to induce the men to come from an immense distance twice a +week, and it was therefore necessary that they should be able to get +a fresh book after service. Nothing could have been better than the +behaviour of my little congregation: they made it a point of giving no +trouble whatever with their horses or dogs, and they were so afraid +of being supposed to come for what they could get, that I had some +difficulty in inducing those who travelled from a distance to have a +cup of tea in the kitchen before they mounted, to set off on their +long solitary ride homewards. They were also exceedingly quiet and +well-behaved; for if even a dozen men or more were standing outside in +fine weather, or waiting within the kitchen if it were wet or windy, +not a sound could be heard. If they spoke to each other, it was in the +lowest whisper, and they would no more have thought of lighting their +pipes anywhere near the house than they would of flying. + +This innate tact and true gentlemanly feeling which struck me so much in +the labouring man as he appears in New Zealand, made the lapse of good +manners, to which I am coming, all the more remarkable. Of course they +never touched their hats to me: they would make me a bow or take their +hats _off_, but they never touched them. I have often seen a hand raised +involuntarily to the soft felt hat, which every one wears there, but +the mechanical action would be arrested by the recollection of the first +article of the old colonial creed, "Jack is as good as his master." I +never minded this in the least, and got so completely out of the habit +of expecting any salutations, that it seemed quite odd to me to receive +them again on my return. No, what I objected to was, that when I used to +go into my kitchen, about ten minutes or so after the service had been +concluded, with the list of club books in my hand, not a single man rose +from his seat. They seemed to make it a point to sit down somewhere; +on a table or window seat if all the chairs were occupied, but at all +events not to be found standing. They would bend their heads and blush, +and glance shyly at each other for encouragement as I came in, but no +one got up, or took his hat off. This went on for a few weeks, until I +felt sure that this curious behaviour did not spring from forgetfulness, +or inattention. When I mentioned my grievance in the drawing-room to the +gentlemen, I only got laughed at for my pains, and I was asked what +else I expected? To this question used to be added sundry anecdotes of +earlier colonial life, intended to reconcile me to the manners of these +later days. I remember particularly a legend of a man cook, who was said +to have walked into the sitting-room of the station where the master was +practising tunes on an accordion, and exclaimed, "Now, look here, boss, +if you don't leave off that there noise, which perwents me gettin' a +wink o' sleep, I'll clear out o' this, sharp, to-morrow mornin'. So now +yer know," and with that remark he returned to his bunk. + +At last I was goaded to declare I felt sure that the men only behaved +in that way from crass ignorance, and that if they knew how much my +feelings were hurt, they would alter their manners directly. This +opinion was received with such incredulity that I felt roused to declare +I should try the experiment next Sunday afternoon. The only warning +which at all daunted me was the assurance that I should affront my +congregation and scare them away. It was the dread of this which made +my heart beat so fast, and my hands turn so cold as I opened the +kitchen-door the next Sunday afternoon. There were exactly the same +attitudes, every body perfectly civil and respectful, but every body +seated. Luckily my courage rose at the right moment, and I came forward +as usual with a smile, and said, "Look here, my men, there is one little +thing I want to ask you. Do you know that it is not the custom anywhere, +in any civilized country, for gentlemen to remain seated and covered +when a lady comes into the room? If I were to go into a room in England, +where the Prince of Wales, or any of the finest gentlemen of the land +were sitting, just as you are now, they would all get up, the Prince +first, most likely, and they would certainly take off their hats! Now +why can't you all do the same, here?" + +The effect of my little speech was magical. Pepper glanced at McQuhair, +Moffatt crimsoned and nudged McKenzie, Wiry Ben slipped off the +window-seat and shyed his hat across the kitchen, whilst Long Tom, the +bullock-driver, "thanked me kindly for mentioning of it;" and every body +got up directly and took their hats off. I felt immensely proud of my +success, and hastened the moment of my return to the drawing room, where +I announced my triumph. I repeated my little speech as concisely as +possible; but, alas, it was not nearly so well received as it had been +in the kitchen! "Have you ever gone to see a London club?" one person +inquired. "Ah: I thought not! I don't know about the Prince, because he +always _does_ do the prettiest things at the right moment, but I +doubt very much about all the others. I fear you have made a very wild +assertion to get your own way." I need hardly say I sulked at that +incredulous individual for many days but he always stuck firmly to his +own opinion. However, my men never required another hint. They came just +as regularly as usual to church, and we all lived happily ever after. + +I feel that my chapter should end here; but any record of my New Zealand +servants would be incomplete without mention of my "bearded cook." Every +body thinks, when I say this, that I am going to tell them about a man, +but it is nothing of the sort. Isabella Lyon, in spite of her pronounced +beard, was a very fine woman; exceedingly good-humoured looking and +fresh-coloured, with most amiable prepossessing manners. She had not +long arrived, and had been at once snapped up for an hotel, but she +applied for my place, saying she wished for quiet and a country life. +Could any thing be more propitious? I thought, like Lois, that my luck, +so long in turning, was improving, and that at last I was to have a cook +who knew her business. And so she did, thoroughly and delightfully. For +one brief fortnight we lived on dainties. Never could I have believed +that such a variety of dishes could have been produced out of mutton. +In fact we seemed to have everything at table except the staple dish. +Unlike the cook who actually sent me in a roast shoulder of mutton +for breakfast one morning, Isabella prided herself on eliminating the +monotonous animal from her bills of fare. Certainly she was rather +heavy on the sauces, etc., and I was trying to pluck up courage to +remonstrate, as it would not be easy or cheap to replace them before +a certain time of year. And then she was so clean, so smiling, and so +good-tempered. She seemed to treat us all as if we were a parcel of +children for whom she was never weary of preparing surprises. As for me, +I felt miserable if any shepherd or well-to-do handsome young bachelor +cockatoo came near the place, dreading lest the wretch should have +designs on my cook's heart and hand. I rejoiced in her beard, and would +not have had her without it for worlds, as I selfishly hoped it might +stand in her matrimonial path. + +This Arcadian state of kitchen affairs went on for exactly a fortnight. +One evening, at the end of that time, we had been out riding, and +returned as usual very hungry. "What are we going to have for supper?" +inquired F----. I told him what had been ordered; but when that meal +made its appearance, lo, there was not a single dish which I had named! +The things were not exactly nasty, but they were queer. For instance, +pears are not usually stewed in gravy; but they were by no means bad, +and we took it for granted it was something quite new. The housemaid, +Sarah, looked very nervous and scared, and glanced at me from time +to time with a very wistful look; but I was so delightfully tired and +sleepy--one never seemed to get beyond the pleasant stage of those +sensations--that I did not ask any questions. + +Next morning, when we came out to breakfast, imagine my astonishment +at seeing a tureen of half cold soup on the table, and nothing else! +I could hardly believe my eyes, and hastened to the kitchen to explain +that this was rather too much of a novelty in the gastronomic line. If I +live to be a hundred years old, I shall never forget the sight--at once +terrible and absurd--which met my eyes. Before the kitchen fire stood +Isabella, having evidently slept in her clothes all night. She looked +wretched and bloated, and quite curiously dirty, as black as if she had +been up the chimney; and even I could see that, early as was the hour, +she was hopelessly drunk. Between both of her nerveless, black hands, +she held a poker, with which she struck, from time to time, a feeble +blow on a piled-up heap of plates, which she persisted in considering +a lump of coal. The fire was nearly out, but she hastened to assure me +that if she could only break this lump of coal it would soon burn up. +Need I say that I rescued my plates at once, and marched the bearded one +off to her own apartment. + +Oh, how dimmed its dainty freshness had become since even yesterday! +Sarah was summoned, and confessed that she had known last night that +"Hisabella" had gone on the "burst," having bought, for some fabulous +sum, a bottle of rum from a passing swagger. It was all very dreadful, +and worst of all was the scene of tears and penitence I had to endure +when the rum was finished. The dray, however, relieved me of the incubus +of her presence; and that was the only instance of drunkenness I came +across among my domestic changes and chances. + + + +Chapter XIV: Our pets. + + +One of the first things which struck me when I came to know a little +more about the feelings and ways of my neighbours in the Malvern Hills, +was the good understanding which existed between man and beast. I am +afraid I must except the poor sheep, for I never heard them spoken of +with affection, nor do I consider that they were the objects of any +special humanity even on their owners' parts. This must surely arise +from their enormous numbers. "How can you be fond of thousands of +anything?" said a shepherd once to me, in answer to some sentimental +inquiry of mine respecting his feelings towards his flock. That is the +fact. There were too many sheep in our "happy Arcadia" for any body to +value or pet them. On a large scale they were looked after carefully. +Water, and sheltered feed, and undisturbed camping grounds, all these +good things were provided for them, and in return they were expected to +yield a large percentage of lambs and a good "clip." Even the touching +patience of the poor animals beneath the shears, or amid the dust and +noise of the yards, was generally despised as stupidity. + +Far different is the feeling of the New Zealander, whether he be +squatter or cockatoo, towards his horse and his dog. They are the +faithful friends, and often the only companions of the lonely man. Of +course there will soon be no "lonely men" anywhere, but a few years ago +there were plenty of unwilling Robinson Crusoes in the Middle Island; +and whenever I came upon one of these pastoral hermits, I was sure to +find a dog or a horse, a cat, or even a hen, established as "mate" to +some poor solitary, from whom all human companionship was shut out by +mountain, rock, or river. + +"Are you not _very_ lonely here?" was often my first instinctive +question, as I have dismounted at the door of a shepherd's hut in the +back country, and listened to the eternal roar of the river which formed +his boundary, or the still more oppressive silence which seemed to have +reigned ever since the creation. + +"Well, mum, it aint very lively; but I've got Topsy (producing a black +kitten from his pocket), and there's the dogs, and I shall have some +fowls next year, p'raps." + +But my object in beginning this chapter was not to enter into a +disquisition on other people's pets, with which after all one can have +but a distant acquaintance, but to introduce some of my own especial +favourites to those kind and sympathetic readers who take pleasure in +hearing of my own somewhat solitary existence in that distant land. I +am quite ready to acknowledge that I never thoroughly comprehended the +individuality of animals, even of fowls and ducks, until I lived up at +the Station. Perhaps, like their masters, they really get to possess +more independence of character under those free and easy skies; for +where would you meet with such a worldly and selfish cat as "Sandy," or +so fastidious and intelligent a smooth terrier as "Rose"? Sandy was an +old bachelor of a sleek appearance, red in colour, but with a good deal +of white shirt-front and wristbands, as to the get-up of which he was +most particular. It was easy to imagine Sandy sitting in a club window; +and I am _sure_ he had a slight tendency to gout and reading French +novels. Sandy's selfishness was quite open and above-board. He liked +you very much until somebody else came whom he liked better, and then he +would desert his oldest friend without hesitation. I don't suppose the +wildest young colley-pup ever dreamed of chasing or worrying Sandy, who +would not have stirred from his warm corner by the fire for Snarleyow +himself. Every now and then Sandy must have felt alarmed about his +health or his figure, for he ate less, and walked gravely and sulkily +up and down the verandah for hours, but as soon as he considered himself +out of danger, he relapsed into all his self-indulgent ways. No one +ventured to offer Sandy anything but the choicest meats, and he was wont +to sit up and beg like a dog for a savoury tit-bit. But he would revenge +himself on you afterwards for the humiliation, you might be sure. + +What always appeared to me so odd, was that in spite of his known and +unblushing selfishness, Sandy used to be a great favourite, and we all +vied with each other for the honour of his notice. Now why was this? If +boundless time and space were at our disposal, we might go deeply into +the question and work it out, but as the dimensions of this volume are +not elastic, the impending social essay shall be postponed, and we will +confine ourselves to a brief description of Sandy's outer cat. He was of +a pure breed, far removed from the long-legged, lanky race of ordinary +station-cats, who from time to time disappeared into the bush and +contracted alliances with the still more degraded specimens of their +class who had long been wild among the scrub. No: Sandy came of "pur +sang," and held his small square head erect, with a haughty carriage +as beseemed his ancestry. His fur was really beautiful, a sort of +tortoiseshell red, the lighter stripes repeating exactly the different +golden tints of a fashionable chignon. In early youth, though it is +difficult to imagine Sandy ever a playful kitten, his tail had been +curtailed to the length of three inches, and this short, flexible +stump gave an air of great decision to Sandy's movements. But his chief +peculiarity, and I must add, attraction, in my opinion, was the perfume +of his sleek coat. When Sandy condescended to take his evening doze on +my linsey lap, I never smelt anything so strange and so agreeable as the +odour of his fur, specially that on the top of his head. It was like the +most delicate musk, but without any of the sickly smell common to that +scent. I believe Sandy knew of this personal peculiarity, and felt proud +of it. + +A far more unselfish and agreeable personage was Rose, the white +terrier, whose name often finds a loving place in these pages. She and +Sandy dwelt together in peace and amity, although the little doggie +never could have felt any affection for her selfish companion. Rose's +nerves were of a delicate and high-strung order, and there was nothing +she hated so much as uproarious noise. Every now and then it chanced +that during a few days of wet or windy weather, our little house had +been filled by passing guests: gentlemen who had called in to ask for +supper and a bed, intending to go on next day. In a country where +inns or accommodation-houses are fifty miles apart, this is a common +incident, and it sometimes happens that the resources of station +hospitality are taxed to the utmost in this way. I have known our own +little wooden box to be so closely packed, that besides a guest on each +sofa in the drawing-room, there would be another on a sort of portable +couch in the dining-room. This was after the spare room had been filled +to the utmost. A delicate "new chum," who required to be pampered, had +retired to rest on the hard kitchen sofa described elsewhere; whilst a +couple of sturdy travellers were sleeping soundly in the saddle +room. After that, there could be nothing for the last comer except a +shake-down in red blankets. + +It _always_ happened I observed that everybody arrived together. For +weeks we would be alone. I lived once for eight months without seeing +a lady; and then, some fine evening, half a dozen acquaintances would +"turn up,"--there really is no other word for it. Well, on these +occasions, when, instead of departing next morning, our impromptu guests +have sometimes been forced to wait until such time as the rain or the +wind should cease; their pent-up animal spirits became often too much +for them, and they would feel an irresistible impulse to get rid of some +of their superfluous health and strength by violent exercise. I set +my face at once against "athletic sports" or "feats of strength" being +performed in my little drawing-room, although they were always very +anxious to secure me for the solitary spectator; and I forget who hit +upon the happy thought of turning the empty wool-shed into a temporary +gymnasium. There these wild boys--for, in spite of stalwart frames +and bushy beards, the Southern Colonist's heart keeps very fresh and +young--used to adjourn, and hop and leap, wrestle and box, fence and +spar, to their active young limbs' content. They seemed very happy, and +loud were the joyous shouts and peals of laughter over the failures; but +after seeing the performance once or twice, I generally became tired +and bored, and used to slip away to the house and my quiet corner by +the fire. Rose considered it her duty to remain at her master's heels as +long as possible, but after a time she too would creep back to silence +and warmth, though she never deserted her post until the noise grew +altogether too much for her nerves; and then, with a despairing whimper, +sometimes swelling to a howl, poor little Rose would tuck her tail +between her legs, and dash out, through the storm, to seek shelter and +quiet with me. + +Whenever Rose appeared thus suddenly in my quiet retreat, I felt sure +some greater uproar than usual was going on down at the wool-shed, and, +more than once, on inquiry, I found Rose's nerves must have been tried +to the utmost before she turned and fled. + +As for the intelligence of sheep-dogs, a volume could be written on +the facts concerning them, and a still more entertaining book on the +fictions, for a New Zealand shepherd will always consider it a point of +honour to cap his neighbour's anecdote of _his_ dog's sagacity, by a yet +stronger proof of canine intelligence. I shall only, briefly allude +to one dog, whose history will probably be placed in the colonial +archives,--a colley, who knows his master's brand; and who will, when +the sheep get boxed, that is mixed together, pick out; with unfailing +accuracy, all the bleating members of his own flock from amid the +confused, terrified mass. As for the patience of a good dog in crossing +sheep over a river, I have witnessed that myself, and been forced to +draw conclusions very much in favour of the dog over the human beings +who were directing the operation. Some dogs again, who are perfectly +helpless with sheep, are unrivalled with cattle, and I have stood on +the edge of a swamp more than once, and seen a dog go after a couple of +milch cows, and fetch them out of a herd of bullocks, returning for the +second "milky mother" after the first had been brought right up within +reach of the stockman's lash. + +Then among my horse friends was a certain Suffolk "Punch," who had +been christened the "Artful Dodger," from his trick of counterfeiting +lameness the moment he was put in the shafts of a dray. That is to say +if the dray was loaded; so long as it was empty, or the load was light, +the "Dodger" stepped out gaily, but if he found the dray at all heavy, +he affected to fall dead lame. The old strain of staunch blood was too +strong in his veins to allow him to refuse or jib, or stand still. Oh, +no! The "Dodger" arranged a compromise with his conscience, and though +he pulled manfully, he resorted to this lazy subterfuge. More than once +with a "new chum" it had succeeded to perfection, and the "Dodger" found +himself back again in his stable with a rack of hay before him, whilst +his deluded owner or driver was running all over the place to find a +substitute in the shafts. If I had not seen it myself, I could not have +believed it. In order to induce the "Dodger" to act his part thoroughly, +a drayman was appointed whom the horse had never seen, and therefore +imagined could be easily imposed upon. The moment the signal was given +to start, the "Dodger," after a glance round, which plainly said, "I +wonder if I may try it upon you," took a step forward and almost fell +down, so desperate was his lameness. The driver, who was well instructed +in his part, ran round, and lifted up one sturdy bay leg after the +other, with every appearance of the deepest concern. This encouraged +the "Dodger," who uttered a groan, but still seemed determined to do +his best, and limped and stumbled a yard or two further on. I confess it +seemed impossible to believe the horse to be quite sound, and if it had +depended on me, the "Dodger" would instantly have been unharnessed +and put back in his stable. But the moment had come to unmask him. His +master stepped forward, and pulling first one cunning ear, on the alert +for every word, and then the other; cried, "It wont do, sir! step out +directly, and don't let us have any nonsense." The "Dodger" groaned +again, this time from his heart probably, shook himself, and, leaning +well forward in his big collar, stepped out without a murmur. The +lameness had disappeared by magic, nor was there even the slightest +return of it until he saw a new driver, and considered it safe to try +his oft-successful "dodge" once more. + +Very different was "Star," poor, wilful, beauty, whose name and fate +will long be remembered among the green hills, where her short life was +passed. Born and bred on the station, she was the pride and joy of her +owner's heart. Slender without being weedy, compact without clumsiness, +her small head well set on her graceful neck, and her fine legs, with +their sinews like steel, she attracted the envy of all the neighbouring +squatters. "What will you take for that little grey filly when she is +broken?" was a constant question. "She's not for sale," her owner used +to answer. "I'll break her myself, and make her as gentle as a dog, and +she'll do for my wife when I get one." But this proved a castle in the +air, so far as Star was concerned. The wife was not so mythical. In due +time _she_ appeared in that sheltered valley, and, standing at the head +of a mound marked by a stake whereon a star was rudely carved, heard the +story of the poor creature's fate. From the first week of her life, +Star (so-called from a black, five-pointed mark on her forehead), showed +signs of possessing a strange wild nature. Unlike her sire or dam, she +evidently had a violent temper,--and not to put too fine a point on +it,--was as vicious a grey mare as ever flung up her heels in a New +Zealand valley. + +When her second birthday was passed, Star's education commenced. The +process called "gentling," was a complete misnomer for the series of +buck jumps, of bites and kicks, with which the young lady received +the slightest attempt to touch her. She had a horrible habit also of +shrieking, really almost like a human being in a frantic rage; she would +rush at you with a wild scream of fury, and after striking at you with +her front hoofs, would wheel round like lightning, and dash her hind +legs in your face. The stoutest stockman declined to have anything +whatever to do with Star; the most experienced breaker "declined her, +with thanks;" generally adding a long bill for repairs of rack and +manger, and breaking tackle, and not unfrequently a hospital report of +maimed and wounded stablemen. Amateur horsemen of celebrity arrived at +the station to look at the beautiful fiend, and departed, saying they +would rather not have anything to say to her. At last, she was given +over in despair, to lead her own free life, never having endured the +indignity of bit or bridle for more than two minutes. + +Months passed away, and Star and her tantrums had been nearly +forgotten, when one mild winter evening the stockman came in to report +that,--wonder of wonders,--Star was standing meekly outside, whinnying, +and as "quiet as a dog." Her master went out to find the man's report +exact: Star walked straight up to him, and rubbed her soft nose +confidingly against his sleeve. The mystery explained itself at a +glance: she was on the point of having her first foal, and, with some +strange and pathetic instinct, she bethought herself of the kind hands +whose caresses she had so often rejected, and came straight to them for +help and succour. Her shy and touching advances were warmly responded +to, and in a few minutes the poor beast was safely housed in the warm +shed which then represented the present row of neat stables long +since on that very spot. A warm mash was eagerly swallowed, and the +good-hearted stockman volunteered to remain up until all should be +happily over; but his courage failed him at the sight of her horrible +sufferings, and in the early dawn he came to rouse up his master, and +beg him to come and see if anything more could be done. There lay Star, +all her fierce spirit quenched, with an appealing look in her large +black eyes, which seemed positively human in their capacity for +expressing suffering. It was many hours before a dead foal was born, and +there is no doubt that if she had been out on the bleak hills, the poor +exhausted young mother must have perished from weakness. She appeared to +understand thoroughly the motive of all that was being done for her, and +submitted with patience to all the remedies. Gradually, but slowly, +her strength returned; and, alas, her evil nature, tamed by anguish, +returned also! Day by day she became shyer of even the hand which had +fed and succoured her; and, as this is a true chronicle, it must be +stated that the very first use Mrs. Star made of her convalescence +was, to kick her nurse on the leg, break her halter into fragments, +and gallop off to the hills with a loud neigh of defiance. Whenever the +topic of feminine ingratitude came on the carpet at that station, this, +which Star had done, used always to be told as an instance in point. + +Two years later, exactly the same thing happened again. The dreaded hour +of suffering found the wayward beauty once more under the roof which had +sheltered her in her former time of trial, and once more she rested her +head in penitence and appeal against her owner's shoulder. Who could +bear malice in the presence of such dreadful pain? Not Star's owner, +certainly. Besides the home resources, a man on horseback was sent off +to fetch a famous veterinary who chanced to be staying at a neighbouring +station, and they both returned before Star's worst sufferings began. +All that skill and experience could do was done that night; but the +morning light found the poor little grey mare dying from exhaustion, +with another dead foal lying by her side. She only lived a few hours +later, in spite of stimulants and the utmost care, and died gently +and peacefully, with those human hands whose lightest touch she had +so flouted, ministering tenderly to her great needs. The stockman had +become so fond of the wayward beauty, in spite of her ingratitude, that +the only solace he could find for his regret at her early death, lay in +digging a deep grave for her, and carving the emblem of her pretty name +on the rude stake which still marks the spot. + +No account of station pets would be complete without a brief allusion to +my numerous and unsuccessful attempts to rear merino lambs in the house. +It never was of any use advising me to leave the poor little creatures +out on the bleak hill-side, if, in the course of my rambles after ferns +or creepers, I came upon a dead ewe with her half-starved baby running +round and round her. How could I turn my back on the little orphan, who, +instead of bounding off up the steep hill, used to run confidingly up to +me, and poke its black muzzle into my hand, as if it would say, "Here is +a friend at last"? And then merino lambs are so much prettier than any I +have seen in England. Their snow-white wool is as tightly screwed up +in small curls as any Astracan fleece, and from being of so much more +active a race, they are smaller and more compact than English lambs, and +not so awkward and leggy. A merino lamb of a couple of hours old is far +better fitted to take care of itself up a mountain than a civilized and +helpless lamb of a month old, besides these latter being so weak about +the knees always. I only mention this, not out of any desire to "blow" +about our sheep, but because I want to account for my tender-heartedness +on the subject of desolate orphans. The ewes scarcely ever died of +disease, unless by a rare chance it happened to be a very old lady whose +constitution gave way at last before a severe winter. We oftenest found +that the dead mother was a fine fat young ewe; who had slipped up on a +hill-side and could not recover herself, but had died of exhaustion and +fatigue from her violent efforts to kick herself up again. If we chanced +to be in time to rescue her by the simple process of setting her on her +legs again, it would be all right, but sometimes the poor creature had +been cold and stiff for hours before we found her, and her lamb had +bleated itself hoarse and hungry, and was as tame as a pet dog. Now +_who_ could turn away from a little helpless thing like that, who +positively leaped into your arms and cuddled itself up in delight, +sucking vigorously away at your glove, or anything handy? Not I, for +one,--though I might as well have left it alone, so far as its ultimate +fate was concerned; but I always hoped for better luck next time, and +carried it off in my arms. + +The first thing to be do be on arrival at home, was to give the starving +little creature a good meal out of a tea-pot, and the next, to put it +to sleep in a box of hay in a warm corner of the kitchen. What always +seemed to me so extraordinary, was that the lambs, one and all, +preserved the most cheerful demeanour, ate and drank and slept +well,--and yet died within a month. Some lingered until quite four weeks +had passed, others succumbed to my treatment in a week. I varied their +food, mixing oatmeal with the milk; some I fed often, others seldom; to +some I gave sugar in the milk, others had new milk. There was abundance +of grass just outside the house for them to eat, if they could. Some +did mumble feebly at it, I remember, but the mortality continued +uninterrupted. It must have been very ridiculous to a visitor, to see +my dear little snowy pets going down on their front knees before me, and +wagging their long tails furiously the moment the tea-pot was brought +out. They were far too sensible to do this if my hands were empty. +Gentle, affectionate little creatures, they used to be wonderfully +well-behaved, though now and then they would wander through the +verandah, and so into my bedroom, where the drapery of my dressing-table +afforded them endless amusement and occupation. They gnawed and sucked +all my "daisy" fringe, until the first thing that had to be done when +a lamb arrived at the house, was to take off muslins and fringes from +that, the only trimmed table in the house. + +Often and often, of a cold night (for we must remember that New Zealand +lambing used always to come off in winter), we would all become suddenly +aware of a strong smell of burning pervading the whole house; which, on +being traced to its source, was often found to proceed from the rosette +of wool on the forehead of a chilly lamb. The creature drew nearer and +nearer to the genial warmth of the kitchen fire, until at last it used +to lean its brow pensively against the red hot bars. Hence arose the +powerful odour gradually filling the whole of the little wooden house. +Of course I used to rush to the rescue, and draw my bewildered pet away +from the fatal warmth, but not until it had usually singed the wool +off down to the bone, and there was often a bad burn on its forehead +as well. But still, in spite of stupidity and an insatiable appetite, I +always grieved very sincerely for each of my orphan lambs as it in turn +sank into its early grave. I used to be well laughed at for attaching +any sentiment to an animal which had sunk so disgracefully low in the +money-market as a New Zealand lamb, but the abundant supply of my little +pets never made it easier for me to lose the particular one which I had +set my heart on rearing. It certainly did afford me some comfort to hear +that merino lambs had always been difficult, if not impossible to +bring up, like so many "pups," by hand; and among all the statistics I +carefully collected, I could only find one well-authenticated instance +of a foundling having been reared indoors. My informant tried to comfort +me by tales of the tyranny that stout and tame sheep exercised over the +household which had sheltered it, but I fear that the stories of its +delightful impudence only made me more anxious to succeed in my own +baby-farming experiments among the lambs. + + + +Chapter XV: A feathered pet. + + +No record of those dear, distant days would be complete without a short +memoir of "Kitty." She was only a grey Dorking hen, but no heroine in +fact or fiction, no Lady Rachel Russell or _Fleurange,_ ever exceeded +Kitty in unswerving devotion to a beloved object, or rather objects. + +To see Kitty was to admire her, at least as I saw her one beautiful +spring evening in a grassy paddock on the banks of the Horarata. We +had ridden over there to visit our kind and friendly neighbours, +the C----'s; we had enjoyed a delicious cup of tea in the +passion-flower-covered verandah, which looked on the whole range, from +East to West, of the glorious Southern Alps, their shining white summits +sharply cut against our own peculiarly beautiful sky; we had strolled +round the charming, unformal garden, on either sloping side of a wide +creek, and had admired, with just a tinge of envy, the fruits and +flowers, the standard apple and rose trees, the tangle of fern and +creepers, the wealth of the old and new worlds heaped together in floral +profusion; we had done all this, I say, and very pleasant we had found +it. Now we were trying to say goodbye: not so easy a task, let me tell +you, when there are so many temptations to linger, and when you are +greatly pressed to stay. The last device of our hospitable hostess to +keep us consisted in offering to show me her poultry-yard. Now I was a +young beginner in that line myself, and tormented my ducks and fowls +to death by my incessant care: at least that is the conclusion I have +arrived at since; but at that time, I considered it as necessary to +look after them as if they had been so many children. The consequence +was,--as I pathetically complained to Mrs. C----, that my hens sat +furiously for a week, and then took to lingering outside, where +perpetual feeding was going on, until their eggs grew cold; that my +ducks neglected their offspring and allowed the rats to decimate them, +and that every variety of epidemic and misfortune assailed in turns my +unhappy poultry yard. Kind Mrs. C---- listened as gravely as she could, +hinting _very_ gently, that perhaps I took too much trouble about them; +then, fearing least she might have wounded my feelings, she hastened to +suggest that I should try the introduction of a different breed. + +As a preliminary step to this reformation, she offered to bestow upon +me one of her best Dorking hens. It was too tempting an offer to be +refused, and I forthwith bestowed my affections on a beautiful grey +pullet, whose dignified carriage and speckled exterior bespoke her high +lineage. "That's Kitty," said Mrs. C----. "I am so glad you fancy +her; she is one of my nicest young hens. We'll catch her for you in a +moment." I must pause to mention here, that it struck me as being +very odd in New Zealand the way in which _every_ creature has a name, +excepting always the poor sheep. If one sees a cock strutting proudly +outside a shepherd's door; you are sure to hear it is either Nelson or +Wellington; every hen has a pet name, and answers to it; so have the +ducks and geese,--at least, up-country; of course, dogs, horses, cows +and bullocks, each rejoice in the most inflated appellations, but I +don't remember ever hearing ducks and fowls answer to their names in any +other country. + +But this is only by the way. I gratefully and gladly accepted the +transfer of the fair Kitty, and only wondered how I was to convey her to +her new home, fifteen miles away. Kitty was soon caught, and carried off +into the house to be packed up for her first ride. Accustomed as I am +to ridiculous things happening to me, still I never felt in so absurd a +position as when, having mounted "Helen," who seemed in a particularly +playful mood after a good feed of oats, Kitty was handed to me neatly +tied up in a pillow-case with her tufted head protruding from a hole +in the seam at the side. Although very anxious to carry her home +immediately, my heart died within me at the prospect of a long gallop on +a skittish mare with a plump Dorking hen tied up in a bag on my lap. + +There was no help for it, however, and I tried to put my bravest face on +the matter. The difficulties commenced at the very point of departure, +for it is not easy to say farewell cordially with your hands full of +reins, whip, and poultry. But it proved comparatively easy going whilst +we only cantered over the plains. It was not until the first creek +had been reached, that I really perceived what lay before me. Helen +distrusted the contents of the bag, and kept trying to look round and +see what it contained; and her fears of something uncanny might well +have been confirmed when she took off at her first flat jump. Kitty +screamed, or shrieked, or whatever name best expresses her discordant +and piercing yells. I more than suspect I shrieked too, partly at the +difficulty of keeping both Kitty and Helen in any sort of order, and +partly at my own insecurity. No sooner had Helen landed on the other +side, than she fled homewards as if a tin kettle were tied to her tail. +The speed at which we dashed through the fragrant summer air completely +took away Kitty's breath, and the poor creature appeared more dead than +alive by the time I dismounted, trembling myself in every limb for her +safety as well as my own, at the garden gate. + +However, next morning brought a renewed delight in existence to both +Kitty and me, and our night's sleep had made us forget our agitation +and peril. After breakfast I introduced her to the poultry yard, and +she adapted herself to her new home with a tact and good humour most +edifying to behold. Months passed away. Kitty had made herself a nest in +a place, the selection of which did equal honour to her head and heart, +and she gladdened my eyes one fine morning by appearing with a lovely +brood of chicks around her. Who so proud as the young mother? She +exhibited them to me, and after I had duly admired them, used to carry +them off to a nursery of her own, which she had established among the +tussocks just outside the stable door. Mrs. C---- had impressed upon me +that Kitty could be safely trusted to manage her own affairs. No fear of +her dragging her fluffy babies out among the wet grass too early in +the morning, or losing them among the flax bushes on the hill-side. No: +Kitty came of a race who were model mothers, and was to be left to take +care of herself and her chickens. + +About a week after Kitty had first shown me her large, small family, +a friend of ours arrived unexpectedly to stop the night. Next morning, +when he was going away, he apologised for asking leave to mount at the +stables, saying his led horse was so vicious, and the one he was riding +so gay, that it was quite possible their legs might find themselves +within the verandah, or do some mischief to the young shrubs which were +the pride and joy of my heart. This gentleman rode beautifully, and +I used to like to see the courage and patience with which he always +conquered the most unruly horse. + +"We will come up to the stable and see you mount," I cried, seizing my +hat. Of course every one followed my lead, and it was to the sound of +mingled jeers and compliments that poor Mr. T---- mounted his fiery +steed, and seized hold of the leading rein of his pack-horse. But +this animal had no intention of taking his departure with propriety or +tranquillity: he pranced and shied, flinging out his heels as he wildly +danced round to every point of the compass, in a circle. Gradually he +drew Mr. T---- and his chestnut a dozen yards away from the stable, +and it was just then that I perceived poor Kitty sitting close under a +tussock. It chanced to be the hour for the chickens' siesta, and they +were all folded away beneath her ample brooding wings. Perhaps the +danger had come too near to be avoided before I perceived it, but at +all events my loud shriek of warning was too late to save the pretty +crouching head from the flourish of the pack-horse's glancing heels. +Swift indeed was the blow; for scarcely ten seconds could have passed +between my first glimpse of poor Kitty's bright black eye looking out, +with such mortal terror in its expression, from beneath the yellow tuft +of grass, and my seeing the horse's heel lay her head right open. The +brave little mother never dreamed of saving herself at the cost of +her nestlings. She crouched as low as possible, and when the horse +had jumped over her I flew to see if she had escaped. No. There lay my +pretty pet, with her wings still outspread and her chickens unhurt. But +she seemed dead: her head had been actually cut clean open, and I never +expected that she would have lived a moment. Yet she did. I took her +at once to the well hard by, and bound up her split head with my pocket +handkerchief, keeping it well wetted with cold water. Later on I put +forth all the surgical art I possessed, and dressed the wound in the +most scientific manner, nursing poor Kitty tenderly in the kitchen, and +feeding her with my own hands every two hours. She was for a long +time incapable of feeding herself and; even when all danger was over, +required most careful nursing. However, the end of the story is that, +she recovered entirely her bodily health, but her poor little brain +remained clouded for ever. She never took any more notice of her +chickens, who had to be brought up by hand, and she never mixed again +with the society of the poultry-yard. At night she roosted apart in the +coalshed, and she never seemed to hear my voice or distinguish me from +others, though she was perfectly tame to everybody. Kitty's end was very +tragical. She grew exceedingly fat, and at last, one time when we were +all snowed up and could not afford to be sentimental, my cook laid hold +of poor Kitty, who was moping in her usual corner, and converted her +into a savoury stew without telling me, until I had actually dined off +her. I was very angry; but Eliza only repeated by way of consolation, +"She had no wits, only flesh, consequently she was better in my stew-pot +nor anywhere else, mum, if you'll only look at it calm like." But it +was very hard to be made to eat one's patient, especially when I was so +proud of the way her poor head had healed. + +If anybody wanted to teaze me, they suggested that I had omitted to +replace my dear Kitty's brains before closing that cruel wound in her +skull. + + + +Chapter XVI: Doctoring without a diploma. + + +So many reminiscences come crowding into my mind,--some grave and others +gay,--as I sit down to write these final chapters, that I hardly know +where to begin. + +The most clamorous of the fast-thronging memories, the one which pushes +its way most vividly to the front, is of a little amateur doctoring of +mine; and as my patient luckily did not die of my remedies, I need not +fear that I shall be asked for my diploma. + +Shearing was just over; over only that very evening in fact. We had been +leading a sort of uncomfortable picnic life at the home station for more +than ten days, and had returned to our own pretty little home up the +valley, late on Saturday night, in time for the supper-dinner I have so +often described. It was my doing, that fortnight's picnic at the home +station, and I may as well candidly confess it was a mistake; although, +made, like most mistakes in life, with good intentions. Our partner had +gone to England, our manager had just left us to set up sheep-farming +on his own account, and all the responsibility of shearing a good many +thousand sheep devolved on F----. And not only the shearing; the flock +had to be carefully draughted, the ewes, wethers, and hoggets, to be +branded, ear-marked, and turned out on their several ranges; the wethers +for home consumption, which consisted of a good-sized flock of many +hundred sheep, turned into the home-paddock,--an enclosure of some five +or six hundred acres,--and various other minute details to be seen to; +the wool to be sent down to Christchurch, and the stores brought up by +the return drays. + +My motives for the plan I formed for us to go over, bag and baggage, to +the home station, the evening before the shearing began, and live there +till it was over, were varied. We will put the most unselfish first, +for the sake of appearances. I knew it would be very hard work for poor +F---- all that time, and I thought it would add to his fatigue if he had +to go backwards and forwards to his own house every day, getting up +at five in the morning and returning late at night, besides having no +comfortable meals. The next motive was that I wanted very much to see +the whole process of shearing, and all the rest of it, myself; and as it +turned out, though I little dreamed of it at the time, this proved to +be my only chance. Every body tried to dissuade me from carrying out +the scheme, by urging that I should be very uncomfortable; but I did not +care in the least for that, and insisted on being allowed at all events +to see how I liked it. + +Accordingly one evening we set forth: such a ridiculous cavalcade. I +would not hear of riding, for it was only a short two miles walk; and +as we did not start until after our last meal, the sun had dipped behind +Flag-pole's tall peak, and nearly the whole of our happy valley lay in +deep, cool shadow. Besides which, it looked more like the real thing +to walk, and that was half the battle with me. The "real thing" in this +case, though I did not stop to explain it to myself, must have meant +emigrants, Mormons, soldiers on the march, what you will; any thing +which expresses all one's belongings being packed into a little cart, +with a huge tin bath secured on the top of all. Such a miscellaneous +assortment of dry goods as that cart held! A couple of mattresses (for +my courage failed me at the idea of sleeping on chopped tussocks for a +fortnight), a couple of folding-up arm-chairs, though, as it turned out, +one would have been enough, for poor F---- never sat down from the time +he got up until he went to bed again; a large hamper of provisions, some +books, our clothes, and various little matters which were indispensable +if one had to live in an empty house for a fortnight. I had sent my +two maids over one morning a few days before, with pails and mops +and brushes, and they had given the couple of rooms which we were to +inhabit, a thorough good cleaning and scouring, so my mind was easy +on that point. It would not have answered, for many reasons, to have +encumbered ourselves with these damsels during our stay at the home +station. In the first place, there was really no accommodation for them; +in the next, it would have entailed more luggage than the little cart +could hold; and, finally, we should have been obliged to leave them +behind at the last moment: for only the evening before we started, +a couple of friends arrived, in true New Zealand fashion, from +Christchurch, to pay us a month's visit. It was too late to alter our +plans then, so we told them to, make themselves thoroughly at home, and +took our departure next day in the way I have alluded to. + +We had plenty of escort as far as the first swamp. When that treacherous +and well-known spot had been reached, everybody suddenly remembered that +they had forgotten something or the other which obliged them to return +directly, so our farewells had to be exchanged from the centre of a flax +bush. The cart meanwhile was nearly out of sight, so wide a _detour_ had +its driver been forced to make in order to find a place sound enough to +bear its weight. But we caught it up again after we had happily crossed +the quagmire which used always to be my bug-bear, and in due time we +made our appearance, in the gloaming, at the tiny house belonging to the +home station. Early as was the hour, not later than half-past eight, the +place lay silent and still under the balmy summer haze. All the shearers +were fast asleep in the men's hut, whilst every available nook and +corner was filled with the spare hands; the musterers, branders, +yard-keepers, and many others, whose duties were less-defined. Far down +the flat we could dimly discern a white patch,--the fleecy outlines +of the large mob destined to fill the skillions at day-break to-morrow +morning; and, although we could not see them distinctly, close by, +watchful and vigilant all through that and many subsequent summer +nights, Pepper and his two beautiful colleys kept watch and ward over +the sheep. + +Writing in the heavy atmosphere of this vast London world, I look +back upon that, and such evenings as that, with a desperate craving to +breathe once more he delicious air unsoiled by human lungs, and stirred +into fresh fragrance by every summer sigh of those distant New Zealand +valleys. No wonder people were always well in such a pure, clear, light +atmosphere. I try to feel again in fancy the exquisite enjoyment of +merely drawing a deep breath, the thrilling sensation of health and +strength it sent tingling down to your finger ends. No fleck or film of +vapour or miasma could be seen or smelt, though the day had been burning +hot, and, as I have said, there were plenty of creeks and swamps +hard by. Damp is unknown in those valleys, and we might have lingered +bareheaded even after the heavy dew began to fall, without risk of cold, +or fever, or any other ailment. But we could not afford to linger a +moment out of doors that lovely tempting evening. F---- and the driver +of the cart, who had some important part to take in the morrow's +proceedings (I forget exactly what), soon tossed out my little stores, +which looked very insignificant as they lay in a heap in the verandah, +and departed to see that all was in train for next day's work. I had +no time to enjoy the evening's soft beauty: the beds had to be made; +clothes to be unpacked and hung up; stores must be arranged on the +shelves in the sitting-room,--for the house only consisted of two small +rooms in front, with a wide verandah, and a sort of lean-to at the back, +which was divided into a small kitchen and store-room. This last was +empty. I confess I thought rather regretfully of my pretty, comfortable, +English-looking bed-room at the other house, with its curtains and +carpet, its wardrobes and looking-glasses, when I found myself surveying +the scene of my completed labours. Two station _bunks_,--i.e., wooden +bed-frames of the simplest and rudest construction, with a sacking +bottom,--a couple of empty boxes, one for a dressing-table and the +other for a wash-stand, a tin basin and a bucket of water, being the +paraphernalia of the latter, whilst some nails behind the door served +to hang our clothes on, such was my station bedroom and all my own doing +too! Certainly it looked uncomfortable enough to satisfy any one, but +I would not have complained of it for the world, lest I might have been +ordered home directly. + +Hard as was my bed that night, I slept soundly, and it appeared only +five minutes before I heard a tremendous noise outside the verandah. +The bleating of hundreds of sheep announced that the mob were slowly +advancing, before a perfect army of men and dogs, up to the sheep yards. +What a din they all made! F---- was wide awake, and up in a moment. I, +anxious to show _why_ I had insisted on coming over, got up too, and +made my way into the little kitchen, where I found a charming surprise +awaiting me in the shape of some faggots of neatly-stacked wood, cut +into exactly, the right lengths for the American stove; and also a heap +of dry Menuka bushes, which make the best touchwood for lighting fires +in the whole world. The tiny kitchen and stove were both scrupulously +clean, and so were my three saucepans and kettle. This had been, of +course, my maids' doing, but the fuel was a delicate little attention +on Pepper's part. How he blushed and grinned with delight when I thanked +him before all his mates! This was indeed station-life made easy! It +did not take two minutes to light my fire, and in five more I had a +delicious cup of tea and some bread-and-butter all ready for F----. It +was nearly cold, however, by the time I could catch him and make him +drink it. Of course, being a man, instead of saying, "Thank you," or +anything of that sort, he merely remarked, "What nonsense!" but equally +of course, he was very glad to get it, and ate and drank it all up, +returning instantly to his shed. + +After this little episode, I set to work to unpack a little, and make +the sitting-room look the least bit more home-like; then I laid the +cloth for breakfast, put out the pie and potted meat, etc. (no words can +say how heartily tired of pies we both were before the week was over), +and arranged everything for breakfast. Then I waylaid one of the +numerous stray "hands" which hang about a station at shearing time, and +got him to fetch me a couple of buckets of water as far as the verandah. +These I conveyed myself into the little sleeping-room, and finished my +toilette at my leisure: tidying it all up afterwards. I wonder if any +one has any idea what hot work it is making a bed? So hot, in fact, +that I resolved in future to be wise enough to finish all these domestic +occupations before I had my bath. The worst of getting up so early +proved to be that by nine o'clock I was very tired, and had nothing else +to do for the remainder of the long, noisy day. As for the meals, they +were wretchedly unsociable; for F---- only came in to snatch a mouthful +or two, standing, and it was of little use trying to make things +comfortable for him. I must confess here, what I would not acknowledge +at the time, that I found it a very long and dull visit. My husband +never had time to speak to me, and when he did, it was only about sheep. +I grew weary of living on cold meat, for it was really too hot to cook; +and my servants used to send me over, every second day, cold fowls or +pies; besides, one seemed to live in a whirl and confusion of dust, and +bleating, and barking. After the day's work was fairly over, F---- used +to rush in, seize a big bath-towel, cry "I am off for a bathe in the +creek," and only return in time for supper and bed. The weather was all +that a sheep-farmer could desire. Bright, sunny, and clear, one lovely +summer day followed another; hot, almost to tropical warmth, without any +risk or fear of sun-stroke or head-ache, and a delicious lightness in +the atmosphere all the time, which merged into a cool bracing air +the moment the sun had slowly travelled behind the high hills to the +westward. + +But all these details, though necessary to make you understand what I +had been doing, are not the story itself, so to that we will hurry on. +The shearing was over; Saturday evening had come, as welcome to poor +imprisoned me as to any one, and the great work of the New Zealand year +had been most successfully accomplished. F---- was in such good humour +that he even deigned to admit that his own comfort had been somewhat +increased by my living at the home station, so I felt quite rewarded +for my many dreary hours. The shearers had been paid, and were even +then picking their way over the hills in little groups of two and three; +some, I grieve to say, bound for the nearest accommodation-house or +wayside inn, and others for the next station, across the river, where +the skillions were full, and waiting for them to begin on Monday +morning. Only half-a-dozen people, instead of thirty, were left at our +place, and there would not even have been so many if it had not +been thought well to keep a few there until the bale-loft was empty. +Generally it was arranged for the wool-drays to follow each other every +two days with a load down to Christchurch; for the greatest risk a +sheep-farmer runs is from his shed taking fire whilst it is full of +bales of wool. This had happened often enough in the colony, and even in +our neighbourhood, to make us more and more careful every year; and, as +I have said, amongst our precautions, was that of keeping as little wool +as possible in the shed. Most flock-owners waited until the shearing +should be quite over before they carted the wool away; but in that case, +a spark from a pipe, a match carelessly dropped in a tussock outside, +when a nor'-wester was blowing,--and the slight wooden building would be +blazing like a torch, and your year's income vanishing in the smoke! + +Even at the last moment, when the cart had already started homewards, +with the tin bath balanced once more on the top of the mattresses and +boxes; when the house was empty, and I was waiting, my hat and jacket +on, and flax-stick in hand, eager to set out, a doubt arose about the +expediency of our return home. Some accidental delay had prevented the +dray from arriving in time to start for Christchurch with the last load, +and between two and three hundred pounds worth of wool still remained in +the shed,--packed and labelled indeed, but neither insured nor protected +from the risk of fire in any way. F---- was very loath to leave them +there; but, yielding to my entreaties, he called Pepper, the head +shepherd, and solemnly gave the wool-shed and its contents over into +his charge, with many and many a caution about fire. Pepper was as +trustworthy and steady a shepherd as any in the colony, and promised to +"keep his weather-eye open," as he phrased it, in nautical slang picked +up from some run-away sailor. + +All the way home F---- said from time to time, anxiously, "I wish the +shed was empty;" but I cheered him up, and told him he was over-tired +and unreasonably nervous, and so forth, but with a great longing myself +for Monday morning to come, and for the dray to take its load and +start. I need not dwell on how delicious it was to return home, where +everything seemed so comfortable and nice, and the bed felt especially +soft and welcome to tired limbs. Early were our hours, you may be sure, +and we slept the sleep of the hard-worked until between two and three +o'clock the next morning. Then we were roused up by some one knocking +loudly against our wide-open latticed window. + +I was the first to hear the noise, and cried, "Who's there? what is it?" +all in a breath. + +"The wool-shed on fire," murmured F----, in a tone of agonized +conviction. + +"It's you that's wanted, please mum, this moment, over at the home +station!" I heard Pepper say, in impatient tones. + +"It's the wool-shed," repeated F----, more than half asleep, and with +only room for that one idea in his dreamy mind. + +"Nonsense!" I cried, jumping out of bed. "I should not be wanted if the +wool-shed were on fire. Don't you hear Pepper say he wants me?" + +"All right, then," said F----, actually turning over and proposing to go +to sleep again. But there was no more sleep for either of us that night. +Whilst I hastily put on my riding-habit, Pepper told me, through the +window; an incoherent tale of some one being at the point of death, and +wanting me to cure him, and the master to bring over pen and ink, to +make a will, and dying speeches and cold shivers, all mixed up together +in a tangle of words. F---- took some minutes to understand that it was +Fenwick, a gigantic Yorkshireman, who had been seized with what Pepper +would call the "choleraics," and who, in spite of having swallowed all +the mustard and rum and "pain-killer" left on the premises, grew worse +and worse every moment. "He's dying, safe enough," concluded Pepper, +"but he's main anxious to see you, mum, and the master; and he wants a +Bible brought to swear him, and he's powerful uneasy to make his will." +I knew quite as little of medicine as my husband did of law, but of +course we decided instantly that we ought both to go and see what could +be done in any way to relieve either the body or mind of the sufferer. + +We said to each other while we were hastily dressing, "How shall we ever +catch the horses? They have all been turned out, of course, as no one +thought they would be wanted until Monday; and who knows where they have +gone to?--miles away, perhaps; and it's pitch dark." Judge, then, of our +delighted surprise, when, on going out into the verandah, preparatory to +starting off to look for our steeds, we found them standing at the gate, +ready saddled and bridled. It seemed like magic, but the good fairies +in this case had been the two guests to whom I have alluded as having +arrived just as we were starting for our picnic life. They were both +"old chums," and understood the situation instantly. Whilst we were +questioning Pepper (you can hear every word all over a New Zealand +house), they had jumped up, huddled on their clothes, and gone over the +brow of the hill to look for the horses. By great good fortune the whole +mob was found quietly camping in the sheltered valley full of sweet +grass, on its further side. To walk up to my pretty bay mare Helen, and +lay hold of her mane, and then, vaulting on her back, ride the rest of +the mob back into the stockyard, was, even in the deep darkness of a +midsummer night, no difficult task for eyes so practised to catching +horses under all circumstances. So here was one obstacle suddenly +smoothed, and as I hastily collected my few simple remedies, consisting +chiefly of flannel, chlorodyne, and brandy, I could only trust and pray +that poor Fenwick's case might not be so desperate as Pepper represented +it. + +To our impatience, the difficult track, with its swamps and holes, its +creeks to be jumped, and morasses to be avoided, seemed long indeed; but +to judge from the continued profound darkness,--that inky blackness of +the sky which is the immediate forerunner of daylight,--the dawn could +not be far off. How well I remember the whole scene! F---- tied his +white handkerchief on his arm, that Helen and I might have a faint speck +of light by which to guide ourselves. Pepper rode close to me, pouring +into my ears dismal predictions of Fenwick's end; whilst I, amid all my +anxiety, could only think of the dangers of the track, and whether, in +the pitchy darkness, we should ever get to the home station. The dew +fell so heavily that more than once I thought it must be raining, but +those were only wind-clouds brooding in the great dark vault above us. +More welcome than ever sounded the bark of the dogs, which told us we +had reached the end of our stumbling ride; and the moment their tongues +woke up the silence, a lantern showed a ray of light to guide us to the +hut door. + +I jumped off my horse instantly, and went in. At first I thought my +patient was dead, for he lay, rigid and grey, in his bunk. At a glance +I perceived that nothing could really be done to help him whilst he was +lying on a high shelf, almost out of my reach, in a small hut filled +with bewildered men, who kept offering him from time to time a "pull" +at a particularly good pipe, having previously poured all the grog they +could muster down his throat, or rather over his pillow (his saddle +performed that duty by night), for he had been unable to swallow for +some hours. I remembered that there were the bedsteads we had used at +the house, and also some firewood still left in the kitchen. Explaining +to Pepper how he was to wrap poor Fenwick in every available blanket +in the place, and carry him across the open space into the parlour, I +hastily ran on before, got some one to help me to drag one of the light +frames into the sitting-room, laced it before the fireplace, and then +made up a good blazing fire on the open hearth. By the time the dry wood +was crackling and sparkling out its cheery welcome, my patient arrived, +and was laid down, blankets and all, on the rude little bedstead, before +the blaze. By its fitful and uncertain light I proceeded to examine the +enormous frame stretched so helplessly before me, feeling half afraid to +touch him at all. F---- was very trying as an assistant, for he looked +on without making any suggestions, and only said from time to time, +"Take care: the man is dead." To my inexperienced eyes he indeed seemed +past all human help. His skin was icy cold, and as wet as if he had been +lying out in the dew. No flutter of pulse, nor sign of breath, could +my trembling efforts discover; but I fancied there was the least little +sign of pulsation about his heart. Of course I had not the vaguest +notion of what was the matter with the man, for all Pepper could tell me +was that "Fenwick's been powerful bad, you bet." This does not sound +a minute diagnosis to go on, and the only remedies which presented +themselves to my mind were those I had studied as being useful for the +recovery of drowned persons. So to work I set, as if the poor fellow had +just been fished out of the creek; and whenever any one wanted to teaze +me afterwards they would declare I had insisted on Fenwick's being held +up by his heels. But of course that was all nonsense. What I did really +do was this, and a doctor in Christchurch, whom I afterwards consulted +as to my treatment, assured me, laughingly, that it was "capital." + +I made Pepper and another man both rub the cold clammy body, as hard as +they could with mustard and hot flannel. I got some bottles filled with +hot water (for it did not take five minutes to boil the kettle) and +placed to his icy-cold feet and under his arms, then I mixed a little +very strong and hot brandy and water, to which I added a few drops of +chlorodyne, and gave him a teaspoonful every five minutes. For the +first half-hour there was no sign of life to be detected, and the same +horrible bluish pallor made poor Fenwick's really handsome face +look ghastly in the flickering light. My two assistants were getting +exhausted, and Pepper had more than once murmured, with the recollection +of the past fortnight's work strong upon him, "Spell, oh!" or else +"Shears!" [Note: the shearer's demand for a few minutes rest] whilst +his companion inquired pathetically, "What was the use of flaying a dead +man?" To these hints I paid no attention, though my damp riding habit +was steaming from the heat of the fire and I felt dreadfully tired; for +certainly there seemed to my eyes a healthier tinge stealing over the +rigid features, and it could not be my fancy which detected a stronger +effort to swallow the last spoonful of brandy. + +I need not go into the details of my jumbled-up remedies; probably I +should bring upon myself serious remonstrances from the Royal Humane +Society, if my treatment of that unhappy man were made public. It is +enough to say that I "exhibited" mustard by the pound and brandy by the +quart, that I roasted him first on one side and then on the other, that +his true skin was rubbed off, that I chlorodyned him until he slept for +nearly a week, and that when he finally recovered he declared he felt +"as if he'd been dead:" "And no wonder," as Pepper always remarked. The +only clue I could get to the cause of his illness was a shy confession, +about a week afterwards, that he had eaten a few mushrooms. Fenwick's +idea of a few of anything was generally a liberal notion. I questioned +him narrowly as to what he had had for supper the night he was taken +ill, and this was his bill of fare:-- + +"Well, you see, mum, I wasn't rightly hungry: it must have been them +gripses coming on. So I only had a shoulder (of mutton, _bien entendu_; +when Fenwick had really a good appetite he regarded anything less than a +whole leg of a sheep as an insult) that night, half-a-dozen slap jacks, +and a trifle of mushrooms." "How big were the mushrooms?" I asked. "Oh, +they was rather fine ones, mum, I won't deny: they might have been the +bigness of a plate." Now even supposing them to have been perfectly +wholesome, a few dozen mushrooms of that size, eaten half raw with +a whole shoulder of mutton, are quite enough to my ignorant mind to +account for so severe a fit of the "choleraics." + + + +Chapter XVII: Odds and ends. + + +My nerves had hardly recovered the shock of having the care of such a +huge patient thrust on me; for, seriously speaking, Fenwick took a good +deal of nursing and attention before he got well again, when we had +another night alarm. Our beautiful summer weather was breaking up; high +nor'-westers had blown down the gorges for days, and now a cold wet +gale was coming up in heavy banks of fleecy clouds from the sou'-west. +Everything looked cold and wretched out of doors, but the sheep-farmers +were thankful and pleased. Their "mobs" could find excellent shelter for +themselves, for it takes _very_ bad weather to hurt a Merino sheep, and +the creeks had been running rather low. "We shall have a splendid autumn +after this is over," said all the squatters gleefully, "with lots of +feed: there's Tyler's creek coming down beautifully." + +So I was fain to be content, though my fowls looked draggled and +wretched, and my pet patch of mignonette became a miniature desert, its +fragrance being all blown and rain-beaten away. Good fires of lignite +and wood made the house cheery, and we went to bed, hoping for fine +weather next day. In the middle of the night everyone was awakened by +a tremendous, echoing noise outside, whilst the frail wooden house +vibrated perceptibly. It could not be caused by the wind: for, although +the rain kept pouring steadily down, the furious sou'-west gusts had +long ago been beaten into a sullen silence by the descending torrents. +For a moment, and half-awake, an old tropical reminiscence floated +through my sleepy, startled mind: "Can it be an earthquake?" I dreamily +wondered. But, no earthquake of my acquaintance was ever yet so +resounding and noisy, for all its crumbling horror: yet, the house was +certainly shaking. "What is it? What are you doing?" rang in shouts +through the little dwelling, as its dwellers came thronging, one after +another, to our door. Frightened as I was, I can perfectly remember how +indignant I felt, when it became clear to my mind that they all thought +_we_ were making such an uproar. How could we do it, if even we had +wished to get out of our warm beds, and create a disturbance on such a +wild night. + + +"Good gracious! the house is coming down," I cried, as a fresh shudder +ran through the slight framework of, our little wooden home. "Pray go +out, and see what is the matter." Thus urged, F---- opened a casement on +the sheltered side,--if any side could be said to be sheltered in such +weather,--and cautiously put his head out. I peered over his shoulder, +and never can I forget the ridiculous sight which met our eyes. There, +dripping and forlorn, huddled together under the wide roof of our summer +parlour, as the verandah used to be often called, the whole mob of +horses had gathered themselves. The garden gate chanced to have been +left open, and, evidently under old Jack's' guidance, they had all +walked into the verandah, wandered disconsolately up and down its +boarded floor, and after partaking of a slight refreshment in the shape +of my best creepers, had proceeded to make themselves at home by rubbing +their wet sides against the pillars and the wooden sides of the house +itself. + +No wonder the noise had aroused us all. Ironshod hoofs clattering up and +down a boarded verandah is riot a silent performance; and Jack was +so cool and impudent about it, positively refusing to stir from the +sheltered corner by the silver-pheasants' aviary, which he had chosen +for himself. The other horses evidently felt they were intruders, and +were glad enough, on the flapping of a handkerchief, to hurry out of +their impromptu stables, making the best of their way through the narrow +garden gate, and so out upon the bleak hills again. But Jack's conduct +was very trying; he found himself perfectly comfortable, and evidently +intended to remain so; neither for wishing nor coaxing, for fair words +nor foul, would he stir. It seemed so horrid to have to dress and go out +in such a downpour of rain, that we weakly deliberated on the expediency +of letting the cunning old stock-horse remain; but fortunately, at +that moment he began to scratch his ear with his hind foot, waking up a +thousand echoes against the side of the house as he did so, and making +the pictures dance again on the canvas and paper walls. "This will never +do," cried we all, desperately: "he sure must be taken to the stable or +he'll come back again." That was exactly what Jack meant and wanted: so +to the stable he went, under poor shivering Mr. U----'s guidance, and +the old rogue spent a dry, warm night under its roof. + +It was the more absurd Jack pretending to be afraid of a wet night, when +he had walked many and many a weary mile over the rough mountain passes +towards the West-Coast, with a heavy pack on his back and in all sorts +of weather. A tradition existed in our neighbourhood that Jack had once +been met crossing the Amuri Downs with a small barrel-organ, an American +cooking stove, and a sow with a litter of young ones, all packed on his +back, "and stepping out bravely under them all," as my informant added. +But I cannot vouch for the truth of the items of this load. Jack's fame +as a stock-horse, as well as a pack-horse, stood high in the Malvern +Hills, but his conduct in the shafts was eccentric, to say the least +of it. He could not bear to be guided by his driver, and was always +squinting over his blinkers in the most ridiculous manner. If he +perceived a mob of cattle or horses on a distant flat, he would set +off to have a look at them and determine whether they were strangers or +friends, dragging the gig after him "over bank, bush, and scaur." + +Once when we were in great despair for a cart-horse, Jack was elected to +the post, but long before we had come to the journey's end we regretted +our choice. It was during the first summer of my life in the Malvern +Hills, and whilst the nor'-westers were still steadily setting their +breezy faces against such a new fangled idea as a lawn. I had wearied of +sowing grass seed at, a guinea a bag, long before those extremely rude +zephyrs got tired of blowing it all out of the ground. There was my +beautiful set of croquet, fresh from Jacques, lying idle in its box in +the verandah, and there was my charming friend, Alice S----, longing for +a game of croquet. When pretty young ladies wish for anything very much, +and the house is full of gentlemen, it goes hard, but that they get +the desire of their innocent hearts. So it was in this case. One fine +afternoon Alice wandered into the verandah and peeped for the hundredth +time into the box. "What beautiful things," she sighed, "and how hard it +is we can't have a game." "I know a patch of self-sown grass," sang one +of the party, "whereon we might play a game." "Where: oh, where?" we +asked, in eager chorus. "About two miles from this, near a deserted +shepherd's hut; it is as thick and soft as green velvet, and the sheep +keep it quite short." "Is the ground level?" we inquired. "As flat as +this table," was the satisfactory answer. + +Of course we wanted to start immediately, but how were we to get the +croquet things there, to say nothing of the delightful excuse for tea +out of doors which immediately presented itself to my ever-thirsty mind. +A dray was suggested (carriages we had none; there being no roads for +them if we had possessed such vehicles); but alas, and alas! the proper +dray and driver and horse were all away, on an expedition up a distant +gulley getting out some brush-wood for fires. "There's Jack," some one +said, doubtfully. He had never even drawn a dray in his life, so far +as we knew, but at the same time we felt sure that when once Jack +understood what was required of him, he would do his best to help us to +get to our croquet ground. So we flew off to our different duties. Alice +to see that the balls, hoops, and mallets were all right in numbers and +colours, &c.; I to pack a large open basket with the materials for my +favourite form of dissipation--an out-door tea; and the gentlemen to +catch Jack and harness him into the cart. + +Peals of laughter announced the setting forth of the expedition; and no +wonder! Inside the dray, which was a very light and crazy old affair, +was seated Alice on an empty flour-sack; by her side I crouched on +an old sugar bag, one of my arms keeping tight hold of my beloved +tea-basket with its jingling contents, whilst the other was desperately +clutching at the side of the dray. On a board across the front three +gentlemen were perched, each wanting to drive, exactly like so many +small children in a goat carriage, and like them, one holding the reins, +the other the whip, and the third giving good advice. In the shafts +stood poor shaggy old Jack, looking over his blinkers as much as to say, +"What do you want me to do now?" Our good humoured and stalwart cadet +Mr. U----, walked backwards, holding out a carrot and calling Jack to +come and eat it. + +In this extraordinary fashion we proceeded down the flat for two or +three hundred yards, one carrot succeeding the other in Jack's jaws +rapidly. Mr. U---- was just beginning to say "Look here: don't you think +we ought to take turns at this?" when Jack caught sight of a creek right +before him. He only knew of one way of crossing such obstacles, and that +was to jump them. No one calculated on the sudden rush and high bound +into the air with which he triumphantly cleared the water; knocking Mr. +U---- over, and scattering his three drivers like summer leaves on +the track. As for Alice and me, the inside passengers, we found the +sensation of jumping a creek in a dray most unpleasant. All the croquet +balls leapt wildly up into the air to fall like a wooden hailstorm +around us. The mallets and hoops bruised us from our head to our feet; +and the contents of my basket were utterly ruined. Not only had my +tea-cups and saucers come together in one grand smash, but the kettle +broke the bottle of cream, which in its turn absorbed all the sugar. +Jack looked coolly round at us with an air of mild satisfaction, as if +he thought he had done something very clever, whilst our shrieks were +rending the air. + +What a merry, light-hearted time of one's life was that! We all had to +work hard, and our amusements were so simple and Arcadian that I often +wonder if they really did amuse us so much as we thought they did at the +moment. Let all New Zealanders who doubt this, look into those perhaps +closed chapters of their lives, and as memory turns over the leaves one +by one, and pictures like the sketches I try to reproduce in pen +and ink, grow into distinctness out of the dim past, it will indeed +"surprise me very much," if they do not say, as I do,--my pleasant task +ended,--"Ah, those were happy days indeed!" + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Station Amusements, by Lady Barker + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STATION AMUSEMENTS *** + +***** This file should be named 5992.txt or 5992.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/5/9/9/5992/ + +Produced by P. J. 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Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: Station Amusements + +Author: Lady Barker + +Release Date: June, 2004 [EBook #5992] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on October 9, 2002] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STATION AMUSEMENTS *** + + + + +Produced by P J Riddick + + + + + + + +STATION AMUSEMENTS IN NEW ZEALAND + +by + +Lady Barker + + + +Preface. + + +The interest shown by the public in the simple and true account of +every-day life in New Zealand, published by the author three years +ago, has encouraged her to enlarge upon the theme. This volume is +but a continuation of "Station Life," with this difference: that +whereas that little book dwelt somewhat upon practical matters, +these pages are entirely devoted to reminiscences of the idler hours +of a settler's life. + +Many readers have friends and relations out in those beautiful +distant islands, and though her book should possess no wider +interest, the author hopes that these at least will care to know +exactly what sort of life their absent dear ones are leading. One +thing is certain: that few books can ever have afforded so much +pleasure to their authors, or can have appeared more completely to +write themselves, than "Station Life," and this, its sequel. +M. A. B. + + + +Chapter I: A Bush picnic. + + +Since my return to England, two years ago, I have been frequently +asked by my friends and acquaintances, "How did you amuse yourself +up at the station?" I am generally tempted to reply, "We were all +too busy to need amusement;" but when I come to think the matter +over calmly and dispassionately, I find that a great many of our +occupations may be classed under the head of play rather than work. +But that would hardly give a fair idea of our lives there, either. +It would be more correct to say perhaps, that most of our simple +pleasures were composed of a solid layer of usefulness underneath +the froth of fun and frolic. I purpose therefore in these sketches +to describe some of the pursuits which afforded us a keen enjoyment +at the time,--an enjoyment arising from perfect health, simple +tastes, and an exquisite climate. + +It will be as well to begin with the description of one of the +picnics, which were favourite amusements in our home, nestled in a +valley of the Malvern Hills of Canterbury. These hills are of a +very respectable height, and constitute in fact the lowest slopes of +the great Southern Alps, which rise to snow-clad peaks behind them. +Our little wooden homestead stood at the head of a sunny, sheltered +valley, and around it we could see the hills gradually rolling into +downs, which in their turn were smoothed out, some ten or twelve +miles off, into the dead level of the plains. The only drawback to +the picturesque beauty of these lower ranges is the absence of +forest, or as it is called there, bush. Behind the Malvern Hills, +where they begin to rise into steeper ascents, lies many and many a +mile of bush-clad mountain, making deep blue shadows when the +setting sun brings the grand Alpine range into sharp white outline +against the background of dazzling Italian sky. But just here, +where my beloved antipodean home stood, we had no trees whatever, +except those which we had planted ourselves, and whose growth we +watched with eager interest. I dwell a little upon this point, to +try to convey to any one who may glance at these pages, how we all, +--dwellers among tree-less hills as we were,--longed and pined for +the sights and sounds of a "bush." + +Quite out of view from the house or garden, and about seven miles +away, lay a mountain pass, or saddle, over a range, which was +densely wooded, and from whose highest peak we could see a wide +extent of timbered country. Often in our evening rides we have gone +round by that saddle, in spite of a break-neck track and quicksands +and bogs, just to satisfy our constant longing for green leaves, +waving branches, and the twitter of birds. Whenever any wood was +wanted for building a stockyard, or slabbing a well, or making a +post-and-rail fence around a new paddock, we were obliged to take +out a Government license to cut wood in this splendid bush. Armed +with the necessary document the next step was to engage "bushmen," +or woodcutters by profession, who felled and cut the timber into the +proper lengths, and stacked it neatly in a clearing, where it could +get dry and seasoned. These stacks were often placed in such +inaccessible and rocky parts of the steep mountain side, that they +had to be brought down to the flat in rude little sledges, drawn by +a bullock, who required to be trained to the work, and to possess so +steady and equable a disposition as to be indifferent to the +annoyance of great logs of heavy wood dangling and bumping against +his heels as the sledge pursued its uneven way down the bed of a +mountain torrent, in default of a better road. + +Imagine, then, a beautiful day in our early New Zealand autumn. For +a week past, a furious north-westerly gale had been blowing down the +gorges of the Rakaia and the Selwyn, as if it had come out of a +funnel, and sweeping across the great shelterless plains with +irresistible force. We had been close prisoners to the house all +those days, dreading to open a door to go out for wood or water, +lest a terrific blast should rush in and whip the light shingle roof +off. Not an animal could be seen out of doors; they had all taken +shelter on the lee-side of the gorse hedges, which are always +planted round a garden to give the vegetables a chance of coming up. +On the sky-line of the hills could be perceived towards evening, +mobs of sheep feeding with their heads _up_-wind, and travelling to +the high camping-grounds which they always select in preference to a +valley. The yellow tussocks were bending all one way, perfectly +flat to the ground, and the shingle on the gravel walk outside +rattled like hail against the low latticed windows. The uproar from +the gale was indescribable, and the little fragile house swayed and +shook as the furious gusts hurled themselves against it. Inside its +shelter, the pictures were blowing out from the walls, until I +expected them to be shaken off their hooks even in those rooms which +had plank walls lined with papered canvas; whilst in the kitchen, +store-room, etc., whose sides were made of cob, the dust blew in +fine clouds from the pulverized walls, penetrating even to the +dairy, and. settling half an inch thick on my precious cream. At +last, when our skin felt like tightly drawn parchment, and our ears +and eyes had long been filled with powdered earth, the wind dropped +at sunset as suddenly as it had risen five days before. We ventured +out to breathe the dust-laden atmosphere, and to look if the swollen +creeks (swollen because snow-fed) had done or threatened to do any +mischief, and saw on the south-west horizon great fleecy masses of +cloud driving rapidly up before a chill icy breeze. Hurrah, here +comes a sou'-wester! The parched-up earth, the shrivelled leaves, +the dusty grass, all needed the blessed damp air. In an hour it was +upon us. We had barely time to house the cows and horses, to feed +the fowls, and secure them in their own shed, and to light a roaring +coal (or rather lignite, for it is not true coal) fire in the +drawing-room, when, with a few warning splashes, the deluge of cold +rain came steadily down, and we went to sleep to the welcome sound +of its refreshing patter. + +All that I have been describing was the weather of the past week. +Disagreeable as it might have been, it was needed in both its hot +and cold, dry and wet extremes, to make a true New Zealand day. The +furious nor'-wester had blown every fleck of cloud below the +horizon, and dried the air until it was as light as ether. The +"s'utherly buster," on the other hand, had cooled and refreshed +everything in the most delicious way, and a perfect day had come at +last. What words can describe the pleasure it is to inhale such an +atmosphere? One feels as if old age or sickness or even sorrow, +could hardly exist beneath such a spotless vault of blue as +stretched out above our happy heads. I have often been told that +this feeling of intense pleasure on a fine day, which is peculiar to +New Zealand, is really a very low form of animal enjoyment. It may +be so, but I only know that I never stood in the verandah early in +the morning of such a day as I am trying to sketch in pen and ink +now, without feeling the highest spiritual joy, the deepest +thankfulness to the loving Father who had made His beautiful world +so fair, and who would fain lead us through its paths of +pleasantness to a still more glorious, home, which will be free from +the shadows brooding from beneath sin's out-stretched wings over +this one. As I stood in the porch I have often fancied I could +seethe animals and even the poultry expressing in dumb brute +fashion, their joy and gratitude to the God from whom all blessings +flow. + +But to return to the verandah, although we have never left it. +Presently F--- came out, and I said with a sigh, born of deep +content and happiness, "What a day!" "Yes," answered F---: "a +heavenly day indeed: well worth waiting for. I want to go and see +how the men are getting on in the bush. Will you like to come too?" +"Of course I will. What can be more enchanting than the prospect of +spending such sunny hours in that glorious bush?" So after +breakfast I give my few simple orders to the cook, and prepare, to +pack a "Maori kit," or flat basket made of flax, which could be +fastened to my side-saddle, with the preparations for our luncheon. +First some mutton chops had to be trimmed and prepared, all ready to +be cooked when we got there. These were neatly folded up in clean +paper; and a little packet of tea, a few lumps of white sugar, a +tiny wooden contrivance for holding salt and pepper, and a couple of +knives and forks, were added to the parcel. + +So much for the contents of the basket. They needed to be carefully +packed so as not to rattle in any way, or Helen, my pretty bay mare, +would soon have got rid of the luncheon--and me. I wrapped up three +or four large raw potatoes in separate bits of paper, and slipped +them into F---'s pockets when he was looking another way, and then +began the real difficulty of my picnic: how was the little tin +tea-pot and an odd delf cup to be carried? F--- objected to put +them also in his pocket, assuring me that I could make very good tea +by putting my packet of the fragrant leaves into the bushmen's +kettle, and drinking it afterwards out of one of their pannikins. +He tried to bribe me to this latter piece of simplicity by promising +to wash the tin pannikin out for me first. Now I was not dainty or +over particular; I could not have enjoyed my New Zealand life so +thoroughly if I had been either; but I did not like the idea of +using the bushmen's tea equipage. In the first place, the tea never +tastes the same when made in their way, and allowed to boil for a +moment or two after the leaves have been thrown in, before the +kettle is taken off the fire; and in the next place, it is very +difficult to drink tea out of a pannikin; for it becomes so hot +directly we put the scalding liquid into it, that long after the tea +is cool enough to drink, the pannikin still continues too hot to +touch. But I said so pathetically, "You know how wretched I am +without my tea," that F---'s heart relented, and he managed to stow +away the little teapot and the cup. That cup bore a charmed life. +It accompanied me on all my excursions, escaping unbroken; and is, I +believe, in existence now, spending its honoured old age in the +recesses of a cupboard. + +After the luncheon, the next question to be decided is, which of the +dogs are to join the expedition. Hector, of course; he is the +master's colley, and would no more look at a sheep, except in the +way of business, than he would fly. Rose, a little short-haired +terrier, was the most fascinating of dog companions, and I pleaded +hard for her, as she was an especial pet; though there were too many +lambs belonging to a summer lambing (in New Zealand the winter is +the usual lambing season) in the sheltered paddocks beneath the +bush, to make it quite safe for her to be one of the party. She +would not kill or hurt a lamb on any account, but she always +appeared anxious to play with the little creatures; and as her own +spotless coat was as white as theirs, she often managed to get quite +close to a flock of sheep before they perceived that she belonged to +the dreaded race of dogs. When the timid animals found out their +mistake, a regular stampede used to ensue; and it was not supposed +to be good for the health of the old or young sheep to hurry up the +hill-sides in such wild fashion as that in which they rushed away +from Rose's attempts to intrude on their society. Nettle may come, +for he is but a tiny terrier, and so fond of his mistress that he +never strays a yard away from her horse's heels. Brisk, my +beautiful, stupid water-spaniel, is also allowed an outing. He is +perfect to look at, but not having had any educational advantages in +his youth, is an utter fool; amiable, indeed, but not the less a +fool. Garibaldi, another colley, is suffering a long penal sentence +of being tied up to his barrel, on account of divers unlawful chases +after sheep which were not wanted; and dear old Jip, though she +pretends to be very anxious to accompany us; is far too fat and too +rheumatic to keep pace with our long stretching gallop up the +valley. + +At last we were fairly off about eleven o'clock, and an hour's easy +canter, intersected by many "flat-jumps," or rather "water-jumps," +across the numerous creeks, brought unto the foot of the bush-clad +mountain. After that our pace became a very sober one, as the. +track resembled a broken rocky staircase more than a bridle-path. +But such as it was, our sure-footed horses carried us safely up and +down its rugged steeps, without making a single false step. No mule +can be more sure-footed than a New Zealand horse. He will carry his +rider anywhere, if only that rider trusts entirely to him, nor +attempts to guide him in any way. During the last half-hour of our +slow and cat-like climb, we could hear the ring of the bushmen's +axes, and the warning shouts preceding the crashing fall of a Black +Birch. Fallen logs and deep ruts made by the sledges in their +descent, added to the difficulties of the track; and I was so +faint-hearted as to entreat piteously, on more than one occasion, +when Helen paused and shook her head preparatory to climbing over a +barricade, to be "taken off." But F--- had been used to these +dreadful roads for too many years to regard them in the same light +as I did, and would answer carelessly, "Nonsense: you're as safe as +if you were sitting in an arm-chair." All I can say is, it might +have been so, but I did not feel at all like it. + +However, the event proved him to have been right, and we reached the +clearing in safety. Here we dismounted, and led the horses to a +place where they could nibble some grass, and rest in the cool +shade. The saddles and bridles were soon removed, and halters +improvised out of the New Zealand flax, which can be turned to so +many uses. Having provided for the comfort of our faithful animals, +our next step was to look for the bushmen. The spot which we had +reached was their temporary home in the heart of the forest, but +their work was being carried on elsewhere. I could not have told +from which side the regular ringing axe-strokes proceeded, so +confusing were the echoes from the cliffs around us; but after a +moment's silent pause F--- said, "If we follow that track (pointing +to a slightly cleared passage among the trees) we shall come upon +them." So I kilted up my linsey skirt, and hung up my little +jacket, necessary for protection against the evening air, on a bough +out of the wekas' reach, whilst I followed F--- through tangled +creepers, "over brake, over brier," towards the place from whence +the noise of falling trees proceeded. By the time we reached it, +our scratched hands and faces bore traces of the thorny undergrowth +which had barred our way; but all minor discomforts were forgotten +in the picturesque beauty of the spot. Around us lay the +forest-kings, majestic still in their overthrow, whilst substantial +stacks of cut-up and split timber witnessed to the skill and +industry of the stalwart figures before us, who reddened through +their sunburn with surprise and shyness at seeing a lady. They need +not have been afraid of me, for I had long ago made friends with +them, and during the preceeding winter had established a sort of +night-school in my dining-room, for all the hands employed on the +station, and these two men had been amongst my most constant pupils. +One of them, a big Yorkshire-man, was very backward in his +"larning," and though he plodded on diligently, never got beyond the +simplest words in the largest type. Small print puzzled him at +once, and he had a habit of standing or sitting with his back to me +whilst repeating his lessons. Nothing would induce him to face me. +The moment it became his turn to go on with the chapter out of the +Bible, with which we commenced our studies, that instant he turned +his broad shoulders towards me, and I could only, hear the faintest +murmurs issuing from the depths of a great beard. Remonstrance +would have scared my shy pupil away, so I was fain to put up with +his own method of instruction. + +But this is a digression, and I want to make you see with my eyes +the beautiful glimpses of distant country lying around the bold +wooded cliff on which we were standing. The ground fell away from +our feet so completely in some places, that we could see over the +tops of the high trees around us, whilst in others the landscape +appeared framed in an arch of quivering foliage. A noisy little +creek chattered and babbled as it hurried along to join its big +brother down below, and kept a fringe of exquisite ferns, which grew +along its banks, brightly green by its moisture. Each tree, if +taken by itself, was more like an umbrella than anything else to +English eyes, for in these primitive forests, where no kind pruning +hand has ever touched them, they shoot up, straight and branchless, +into the free air above, where they spread a leafy crown out to the +sunbeams. Beneath the dense shade of these matted branches grew a +luxuriant shrubbery, whose every leaf was a marvel of delicate +beauty, and ferns found here a home such as they might seek +elsewhere in vain. Flowers were very rare, and I did not observe +many berries, but these conditions vary in different parts of the +beautiful middle island. + +That was a fair and fertile land stretching out before us, +intersected by the deep banks of the Rakaia, with here and there a +tiny patch of emerald green and a white dot, representing the house +and English grass paddock of a new settler. In the background the +bush-covered mountains rose ever higher and higher in bolder +outline, till they shook off their leafy clothing, and stood out in +steep cliffs and scaurs from the snow-clad glacier region of the +mountain range running from north to south, and forming the back +bone of the island. I may perhaps make you see the yellow, +river-furrowed plains, and the great confusion of rising ground +behind them, but cannot make you see, still less feel, the +atmosphere around, quivering in a summer haze in the valley beneath, +and stirred to the faintest summer wind-sighs as it moved among the +pines and birches overhead. Its lightness was its most striking +peculiarity. You felt as if your lungs could never weary of +inhaling deep breaths of such an air. Warm without oppression, cool +without a chill. I can find nothing but paradoxes to describe it. +As for fatigue, one's muscles might get tired, and need rest, but +the usual depression and weariness attending over-exertion could not +exist in such an atmosphere. One felt like a happy child; pleased +at nothing, content to exist where existence was a pleasure. + +You could not find more favourable specimens of New Zealand +colonists than the two men, Trew and Domville, who stood before us +in their working dress of red flannel shirts and moleskin trousers, +"Cookham" boots and digger's plush hats. Three years before this +day they had landed at Port Lyttleton, with no other capital than +their strong, willing arms, and their sober, sensible heads. Very +different is their appearance to-day from what it was on their +arrival; and the change in their position and circumstances is as +great. Their bodily frames have filled out and developed under the +influence of the healthy climate and abundance of mutton, until they +look ten years younger and twice as strong, and each man owns a +cottage and twenty acres of freehold land, at which he works in +spare time, as well as having more pounds than he ever possessed +pence in the old country, put safely away in the bank. There can be +no doubt about the future of any working man or woman in our New +Zealand colonies. It rests in their own hands, under God's +blessing, and the history of the whole human race shows us that He +always has blessed honest labour and rightly directed efforts to do +our duty in this world. Sobriety and industry are the first +essentials to success. Possessing these moral qualifications, and a +pair of hands, a man may rear up his children in those beautiful +distant lands in ignorance of what hunger; or thirst, or grinding +poverty means. Hitherto the want of places of worship, and schools +for the children, have been a sad drawback to the material +advantages of colonization at the Antipodes; but these blessings are +increasing every day, and the need of them creates the supply. + +The great mistake made in England, next to that of sending out +worthless idle paupers, who have never done a hand's turn for +themselves here, and are still less likely to do it elsewhere, is +for parents and guardians to ship off to New Zealand young men who +have received the up-bringing and education of gentlemen, without a +shilling in their pockets, under the vague idea that something will +turn up for them in a new place. There is nothing which can turn +up, for the machinery of civilization is reduced to the most +primitive scale in these countries; and I have known 500 pounds per +annum regarded as a monstrous salary to be drawn by a hard-worked +official of some twenty years standing and great experience in the +colony. From this we may judge of the chances of remunerative +employment for a raw unfledged youth, with a smattering of classical +learning. At first they simply "loaf" (as it is called there) on +their acquaintances and friends. At the end of six months their +clothes are beginning to look shabby; they feel they _ought_ to do +something, and they make day by day the terrible discovery that +there is nothing for them to do in their own rank of life. Many a +poor clergyman's son, sooner than return to the home which has been +so pinched to furnish forth his passage money and outfit, takes a +shepherd's billet, though he generally makes a very bad shepherd for +the first year or two; or drives bullocks, or perhaps wanders +vaguely over the country, looking for work, and getting food and +lodging indeed, for inhospitality is unknown, but no pay. Sometimes +they go to the diggings, only to find that money is as necessary +there as anywhere, and that they are not fitted to dig in wet holes +for eight or ten hours a day. Often these poor young men go home +again, and it is the best thing they can do, for at least they have +gained some knowledge of life, on its dark as well as its brighter +side. But still oftener, alas, they go hopelessly to the bad, +degenerating into billiard markers, piano players at dancing +saloons, cattle drivers, and their friends probably lose sight of +them. + +Once I was riding with my husband up a lovely gulley, when we heard +the crack of a stockwhip, sounding strangely through the deep +eternal silence of a New Zealand valley, and a turn of the track +showed us a heavy, timber-laden bullock-waggon labouring slowly +along. At the head of the long team sauntered the driver, in the +usual rough-and-ready costume, with his soft plush hat pulled low +over his face, and pulling vigorously at a clay pipe. In spite of +all the outer surroundings, something in the man's walk and dejected +attitude struck my imagination, and I made some remark to my +companion. The sound of my voice reached the bullock-driver's ears; +he looked up, and on seeing a lady, took his pipe out of his mouth, +his hat off his head, and forcing his beasts a little aside, stood +at their head to let us pass. I smiled and nodded, receiving in +return a perfect and profound bow, and the most melancholy glance I +have ever seen in human eyes. "Good gracious, F---," I cried, when +we had passed, "who is that man?" "That is Sir So-and-So's third +son," he replied: "they sent him out here without a shilling, five +years ago, and that is what he has come to: a working man, living +with working men. He looks heart-broken, poor fellow, doesn't he?" +I, acting upon impulse, as any woman would have done, turning back +and rode up to him, finding it very difficult to frame my pity and +sympathy in coherent words. "No thank you, ma'am," was all the +answer I could get, in the most refined, gentlemanly tone of voice: +"I'm very well as I am. I should only have the struggle all over +again if I made any change now. It is the truest kindness to leave +me alone." He would not even shake hands with me; so I rode back; +discomfited, to hear from F--- that he had made many attempts to +befriend him, but without success. "In fact," concluded F---, with +some embarrassment, "he drinks dreadfully, poor fellow. Of course +that is the secret of all his wretchedness, but I believe despair +drove him to it in the first instance." + +I have also known an ex-dragoon officer working as a clerk in an +attorney's office at fifteen shillings a week, who lived like a +mechanic, and yet spake and stepped like his old self; one listened +involuntarily for the clink of the sabre and spur whenever he moved +across the room. + +This has been a terrible digression, almost a social essay in fact; +but I have it so much at heart to dissuade fathers and mothers from +sending their sons so far away without any certainty of employment. +Capitalists, even small ones, do well in New Zealand: the labouring +classes still better; but there is no place yet for the educated +gentleman without money, and with hands unused to and unfit for +manual labour and the downward path is just as smooth and pleasant +at first there, as anywhere else. + +Trew and Domville soon got over their momentary shyness, and +answered my inquiries about their families. Then I had a short talk +with them, but on the principle that it is "ill speaking to a +fasting man," we agreed to adjourn to the clearing, where they had +built a rough log hut for temporary shelter, and have our dinner. +They had provided themselves with some bacon; but were very glad to +accept of F---'s offer of mutton, to be had for the trouble of +fetching it. When we reached the little shanty, Trew produced some +capital bread, he had baked the evening before in a camp-oven; F---'s +pockets were emptied of their load of potatoes, which were put to +roast in the wood embers; rashers of bacon and mutton chops +spluttered and fizzed side-by-side on a monster gridiron with tall +feet, so as to allow it to stand by itself over the clear fire, and +we turned our chops from time to time by means of a fork +extemporized out of a pronged stick. + +Over another fire, a little way to leeward, hung the bushmen's +kettle on an iron tripod, and, so soon as it boiled, my little +teapot was filled before Domville threw in his great fist-full of +tea. I had brought a tiny phial of cream in the pocket of my +saddle, but the men thought it spoiled the flavour of the tea, which +they always drink "_neat_," as they call it. The Temperance Society +could draw many interesting statistics from the amount of hard work +which is done in New Zealand on tea. Now, I am sorry to say, beer +is creeping up to the stations, and is served out at shearing time +and so on; but in the old days all the hard work used to be done on +tea, and tea alone, the men always declaring they worked far better +on it than on beer. "When we have as much good bread and mutton as +we can eat," they would say, "we don't feel to miss the beer we used +to drink in England;" and at the end of a year or two of tea and +water-drinking, their bright eyes and splendid physical condition +showed plainly enough which was the best kind of beverage to work, +and work hard too, upon. + +So there we sat round the fire: F--- with the men, and I, a little +way off, out of the smoke, with the dogs. Overhead, the sunlight +streamed down on the grass which had sprung up, as it always does in +a clearing; the rustle among the lofty tree tops made a delicious +murmur high up in the air; a waft of cool breeze flitted past us +laden with the scent of newly-cut wood (and who does not know that +nice, _clean_ perfume?); innumerable paroquets almost brushed us +with their emerald-green wings, whilst the tamer robin or the dingy +but melodious bell-bird came near to watch the intruders. The sweet +clear whistle of the tui or parson-bird--so called from his glossy +black suit and white wattles curling exactly where a clergy-man's +bands would be,--could be heard at a distance; whilst overhead the +soft cooing of the wild pigeons, and the hoarse croak of the ka-ka +or native parrot, made up the music of the birds' orchestra. Ah, +how delicious it all was,--the Robinson Crusoe feel of the whole +thing; the heavenly air, the fluttering leaves, the birds' chirrups +and whistle, and the foreground of happy, healthy men! + +Rose and I had enough to do, even with Nettle's assistance, in +acting as police to keep off those bold thieves, the wekas, who are +as impudent as they are tame and fearless. In appearance they +resemble exactly a stout hen pheasant, without its long tail; but +they belong to the apterix family, and have no wings, only a tiny +useless pinion at each shoulder, furnished with a claw like a small +fish-hook: what is the use of this claw I was never able to +discover. When startled or hunted, the weka glides, for it can +scarcely be called running, with incredible swiftness and in perfect +silence, to the nearest cover. A tussock, a clump of flax, a tuft +of tall tohi grass, all serve as hiding-places; and, wingless as she +is, the weka can hold her own very well against her enemies, the +dogs. I really believe the great desire of Brisk's life was to +catch a weka. He started many, but used to go sniffing and barking +round the flax bush where it had taken refuge at first, long after +the clever, cunning bird had glided from its shelter to another +cover further off. + +After dinner was over and Domville had brought back the tin plates +and pannikins from the creek where he had washed them up, pipes were +lighted, and a few minutes smoking served to rest and refresh the +men, who had been working since their six o'clock breakfast. The +daylight hours were too precious however to be wasted in smoking. +Trew and Domville would not have had that comfortable nest-egg +standing in their name at the bank in Christchurch, if they had +spent much time over their pipes; so after a very short "spell" they +got up from the fallen log of wood which had served them for a +bench, and suggested that F--- should accompany them back to where +their work lay. "You don't mind being left?" asked F---. "Certainly +not," replied I. "I have got the dogs for company, and a book in my +pocket. I daresay I shall not read much, however, for it is so +beautiful to sit here and watch the changing lights and shadows." + +And so it was, most beautiful and thoroughly delightful. I sat on +the short sweet grass, which springs upon the rich loam of fallen +leaves the moment sunlight is admitted into the heart of a bush. No +one plants it; probably the birds carry the seeds; yet it grows +freely after a clearing has been made. Nature lays down a green +sward directly on the rich virgin mould, and sets to work besides to +cover up the unsightly stems and holes of the fallen timber with +luxuriant tufts of a species of hart's-tongue fern, which grows +almost as freely as an orchid on decayed timber. I was so still and +silent that innumerable forest birds came about me. A wood pigeon +alighted on a branch close by, and sat preening her radiant plumage +in a bath of golden sunlight. The profound stillness was stirred +now and then by a soft sighing breeze which passed over the tree +tops, and made the delicate foliage of the undergrowth around me +quiver and rustle. I had purposely scattered the remains of our +meal in a spot where the birds could see the crumbs, and it was not +long before the clever little creatures availed themselves of the +unexpected feast. So perfectly tame and friendly were they, that I +felt as if I were the intruder, and bound by all the laws of aerial +chivalry to keep the peace. But this was no easy matter where Rose +and Nettle were concerned, for when an imprudent weka appeared on +the sylvan scene, looking around-as if to say, "Who's afraid?" it +was more than I could do to keep the little terriers from giving +chase. Brisk, too, blundered after them, but I had no fear of his +destroying the charm of the day by taking even a weka's life. + +Thus the delicious afternoon wore on, until it was time to boil the +kettle once more, and make a cup of tea before setting out +homewards. The lengthening shadows added fresh tenderness and +beauty to the peaceful scene, and the sky began to paint itself in +its exquisite sunset hues. It has been usual to praise the tints of +tropic skies when the day is declining; but never, in any of my +wanderings to East and West Indies, have I seen such gorgeous +evening colours as those which glorify New Zealand skies. + +A loud coo-ee summoned F--- to tea, and directly afterwards the +horses were re-saddled, the now empty flax basket filled with the +obnoxious teapot and cup, wrapped in many layers of flax leaves, to +prevent their rattling, and we bade good night to the tired bushmen. +We left them at their tea, and I was much struck to observe that +though they looked like men who had done a hard day's work, there +was none of the exhaustion we often see in England depicted on the +labouring man's face. Instead of a hot crowded room, these bushmen +were going to sleep in their log hut, where the fresh pure air could +circulate through every nook and cranny. They had each their pair +of red blankets, one to spread over a heap of freshly cut tussocks, +which formed a delicious elastic mattrass, and the other to serve as +a coverlet. During the day these blankets were always hung outside +on a tree, out of the reach of the most investigating weka. You may +be sure I had not come empty-handed in the way of books and papers, +and my last glance as I rode away rested on Trew opening a number of +_Good Words_ [Note: _Evening Hours_ was not in existence at that +time, or else its pages are just what those simple God-fearing men +would have appreciated and enjoyed. _Good Words_ and the _Leisure +Hour_ used to be their favourite periodicals, and the kindness of +English friends kept me also well supplied with copies of Miss +Marsh's little books, which were read with the deepest and most +eager interest.] with the pleased-expression of a child examining a +packet of toys. + +And so we rode slowly home through the delicious gloaming, with the +evening air cooled to freshness so soon as the sun had sunk below +the great mountains to the west, from behind which he shot up +glorious rays of gold and crimson against the blue ethereal sky, +causing the snowy peaks to look more exquisitely pure from the +background of gorgeous colour. During the flood of sunlight all +day, we had not perceived a single fleck of cloud; but now lovely +pink wreaths, floating in mid-air, betrayed that here and there a +"nursling of the sky" lingered behind the cloud-masses which we +thought had all been blown away yesterday. + +The short twilight hour was over, and the stars were filtering their +soft radiance on our heads by the time we heard the welcoming barks +of the homestead, and saw the glimmer of the lighted lamp in our +sitting-room, shining out of the distant gloom. And so ended, in +supper and a night of deep dreamless sleep, one of the many happy +picnic days of my New Zealand life. + + + +Chapter II: Eel-fishing. + + +One of the greatest drawbacks in an English gentleman's eyes to +living in New Zealand is the want of sport. There is absolutely +none. There used to be a few quails, but they are almost extinct +now; and during four years' residence in very sequestered regions I +only saw one. Wild ducks abound on some of the rivers, but they are +becoming fewer and shyer every year. The beautiful Paradise duck is +gradually retreating to those inland lakes lying at the foot of the +Southern Alps, amid glaciers and boulders which serve as a barrier +to keep back his ruthless foe. Even the heron, once so plentiful on +the lowland rivers, is now seldom seen. As I write these lines a +remorseful recollection comes back upon me of overhanging cliffs, +and of a bend in a swirling river, on whose rapid current a +beautiful wounded heron--its right wing shattered--drifts helplessly +round and round with the eddying water, each circle bringing it +nearer in-shore to our feet. I can see now its bright fearless eye, +full of suffering, but yet unconquered: its slender neck proudly +arched, and bearing up the small graceful head with its coronal or +top-knot raised in defiance, as if to protest to the last against +the cruel shot which had just been fired. I was but a spectator, +having merely wandered that far to look at my eel-lines, yet I felt +as guilty as though my hand had pulled the trigger. Just as the +noble bird drifted to our feet,--for I could not help going down to +the river's edge, where Pepper (our head shepherd) stood, looking +very contrite,--it reared itself half out of the water, with a +hissing noise and threatening bill, resolved to sell its liberty as +dearly as it could; but the effort only spread a brighter shade of +crimson on the waters surface for a brief moment, and then, with +glazing eye and drooping crest, the dying creature turned over on +its side and was borne helpless to our feet. By the time Pepper +extended his arm and drew it in, with the quaint apology, "I'm sorry +I shot yer, old feller! I, am, indeed," the heron was dead; and that +happened to be the only one I ever came across during my mountain +life. Once I saw some beautiful red-shanks flying down the gorge of +the Selwyn, and F--- nearly broke his neck in climbing the crag from +whence one of them rose in alarm at the noise of our horses' feet on +the shingle. There were three eggs in the inaccessible cliff-nest, +and he brought me one, which I tried in vain to hatch under a +sitting duck. Betty would not admit the intruder among her own +eggs, but resolutely pushed it out of her nest twenty times a day, +until at last I was obliged to blow it and send it home to figure in +a little boy's collection far away in Kent. + +I have seen very good blue duck shooting on the Waimakiriri river, +but 50 per cent. of the birds were lost for want of a retriever bold +enough to face that formidable river. Wide as was the beautiful +reach, on whose shore the sportsmen stood, and calmly as the deep +stream seemed to glide beneath its high banks, the wounded birds, +flying low on the water, had hardly dropped when they disappeared, +sucked beneath by the strong current, and whirled past us in less +time than it takes one to write a line. We had retrievers with us +who would face the waves of an inland lake during a nor'-wester, +--which is giving a dog very high praise indeed; but there was no +canine Bayard at hand to brave those treacherous depths, and bring +out our game, so the sport soon ceased; for what was the good of +shooting the beautiful, harmless creatures when we could not make +use of them as food? + +I often accompanied F--- on his eel-fishing expeditions, but more +for the sake of companionship than from any amusement I found in the +sport. I may here confess frankly that I cannot understand anyone +being an inveterate eel-fisher, for of all monotonous pursuits, it +is the most self-repeating in its forms. Even the first time I went +out I found it delightful only in anticipation; and this is the one +midnight excursion which I shall attempt to re-produce for you. + +It had been a broiling midsummer day, too hot to sit in the +verandah, too hot to stroll about the garden, or go for a ride, or +do anything in fact, except bask like a lizard in the warm air. New +Zealand summer weather, however high the thermometer, is quite +different from either tropical or English heat. It is intensely hot +in the sun, but always cool in the shade. I never heard of an +instance of sun-stroke from exposure to the mid-day sun, for there +always was a light air--often scarcely perceptible until you were +well out in the open,--to temper the fierce vertical rays. It +sometimes happened that I found myself obliged, either for business +or pleasure, to take a long ride in the middle of a summer's day, +and my invariable reflection used to be, "It is not nearly so hot +out of doors as one fancies it would be." Then there is none of the +stuffiness so often an accompaniment to our brief summers, bringing +lassitude and debility in its train. The only disadvantage of an +unusually hot season with us was, that our already embrowned +complexions took a deeper shade of bronze; but as we were all +equally sun-burnt there was no one to throw critical stones. + +What surprised me most was the utter absence of damp or miasma. +After a blazing day, instead of hurrying in out of reach of +poisonous vapours as the tropic-dweller must needs do, we could +linger bare-headed, lightly clad, out of doors, listening to the +distant roar of a river, or watching the exquisite tints of the +evening sky. I dwell on this to explain that in almost any other +country there would have been risk in remaining out at night after +such still, hot days. + +On this particular evening, during my first summer in the New +Zealand Malvern Hills, after we had watered my pet flowers near the +house, and speculated a good deal as to whether the mignonette seed +had all been blown out of the ground by the last nor'-wester or not, +F--- said, "I shall go eel-fishing to-night to the creek, down the +flat. Why don't you come too? I am sure you would like it." Now, +I am sorry to say that I am such a thorough gipsy in my tastes that +any pursuit which serves as an excuse for spending hours in the open +air, is full of attraction for me; consequently, I embraced the +proposal with ardour, and set about gathering, under F---'s +directions, what seemed to bid fair to rival the collection of an +old rag-and-bottle merchant. First of all, there was a muster of +every empty tin match-box in the little house; these were to hold +the bait-bits of mutton and worms. Then I was desired to hunt up +all the odds and ends of worsted which lurked in the scrap-basket. +A forage next took place in search of string, but as no parcels were +ever delivered in that sequestered valley, twine became a precious +and rare treasure. In default of any large supply being obtainable, +my lamp and candle-wick material was requisitioned by F--- (who, by +the way, is a perfect Uhlan for getting what he wants, when bent on +a sporting expedition); and lastly, one or two empty flour-sacks +were called for. You will see the use of this heterogeneous +collection presently. + +It was of no use starting until the twilight had darkened into a +cloudy, moonless night; so, after our seven o'clock supper, we +adjourned into the verandah to watch F--- make a large round ball, +such as children play with, out of the scraps of worsted with which +I had furnished him. Instead of cutting the wool into lengths, +however, it was left in loops; and I learned that this is done to +afford a firm hold for the sharp needle-like teeth of an inquisitive +eel, who might be tempted to find out if this strange round thing, +floating near his hole, would be good to eat. I was impatient as a +child,--remember it was my first eel-fishing expedition,--and I +thought nine o'clock would never come, for I had been told to go and +dress at that hour; that is to say, I was to change my usual +station-costume, a pretty print gown, for a short linsey skirt, +strong boots and kangaroo-skin gaiters. F---, and our cadet, Mr. +U---, soon appeared, clad in shooting coats instead of their alpaca +costumes, and their trousers stuffed into enormous boots, the upper +leathers of which came beyond their knees. + +"Are we going into the water?" I timidly inquired. + +"Oh, no,--not at all: it is on account of the Spaniards." + +No doubt this sounds very unintelligible to an English reader; but +every colonist who may chance to see my pages will shiver at the +recollection of those vegetable defenders of an unexplored region in +New Zealand. Imagine a gigantic artichoke with slender instead of +broad leaves, set round in dense compact order. They vary, of +course, in size, but in our part of the world four or six feet in +circumference and a couple of feet high was the usual growth to +which they attained, though at the back of the run they were much +larger. Spaniards grow in clusters, or patches, among the tussocks +on the plains, and constitute a most unpleasant feature of the +vegetation of the country. Their leaves are as firm as bayonets, and +taper at the point to the fineness of a needle, but are not nearly +so easily broken as a needle would be. No horse will face them, +preferring a jump at the cost of any exertion, to the risk of a stab +from the cruel points. The least touch of this green bayonet draws +blood, and a fall _into_ a Spaniard is a thing to be remembered all +one's life. Interspersed with the Spaniards are generally clumps of +"wild Irishman," a straggling sturdy bramble, ready to receive and +scratch you well if you attempt to avoid the Spaniard's weapons. +Especially detrimental to riding habits are wild Irishmen; and there +are fragments of mine, of all sorts of materials and colours, +fluttering now on their thorny branches in out-of-the-way places on +our run. It is not surprising, therefore, that we guarded our legs +as well as we could against these foes to flesh and blood. + +"We are rather early," said the gentlemen, as I appeared, ready and +eager to start; "but perhaps it is all the better to enable you to +see the track." They each flung an empty sack over their shoulders, +felt in their pockets to ascertain whether the matches, hooks, boxes +of bait, etc., were all there, and then we set forth. + +At first it appeared as if we had stepped from the brightness of the +drawing-room into utter and pitchy blackness; but after we had +groped for a few steps down the familiar garden path, our eyes +became accustomed to the subdued light of the soft summer night. +Although heavy banks of cloud,--the general precursors of wind,-- +were moving slowly between us and the heavens, the stars shone down +through their rifts, and on the western horizon a faint yellowish +tinge told us that daylight was in no hurry to leave our quiet +valley. The mountain streams or creeks, which water so well the +grassy plains among the Malvern Hills, are not affected to any +considerable extent by dry summer weather. They are snow-fed from +the high ranges, and each nor'-wester restores many a glacier or +avalanche to its original form, and sends it flowing down the steep +sides of yonder distant beautiful mountains to join the creeks, +which, like a tangled skein of silver threads, ensure a good water +supply to the New Zealand sheep-farmer. In the holes, under steep +overhanging banks, the eels love to lurk, hiding from the sun's rays +in cool depths, and coming out at night to feed. There are no fish +whatever in the rivers, and I fear that the labours of the +Acclimatization Society will be thrown away until they can persuade +the streams themselves to remain in their beds like more civilised +waters. At present not a month passes that one does not hear of +some eccentric proceeding on. the part of either rivers or creeks. +Unless the fish are prepared to shift their liquid quarters at a +moment's notice they will find themselves often left high and dry on +the deserted shingle-bed. But eels are proverbially accustomed to +adapt themselves to circumstances, and a fisherman may always count +on getting some if he be patient. + +About a mile down the flat, between very high banks, our principal +creek ran, and to a quiet spot among the flax-bushes we directed our +steps. By the fast-fading light the gentlemen set their lines in +very primitive fashion. On the crumbling, rotten earth the New +Zealand flax, the _Phormium tenax_, loves to grow, and to its long, +ribbon-like leaves the eel-fishers fastened their lines securely, +baiting each alternate hook with mutton and worms. I declared this +was too cockney a method of fishing, and selected a tall slender +flax-stick, the stalk of last year's spike of red honey-filled +blossoms, and to this extempore rod I fastened my line and bait. +When one considers that the old whalers were accustomed to use ropes +made in the rudest fashion, from the fibre of this very plant, in +their deep-sea fishing for very big prey, it is not surprising that +we found it sufficiently strong for our purpose. I picked out, +therefore, a comfortable spot,--that is to say, well in the centre +of a young flax-bush, whose satiny leaves made the most elastic +cushions around me; with my flax-stick held out over what was +supposed to be a favourite haunt of the eels, and with Nettle asleep +at my feet and a warm shawl close to my hand, prepared for my vigil. +"Don't speak or move," were the gentlemen's last words: "the eels +are all eyes and ears at this hour; they can almost hear you +breathe." Each man then took up his position a few hundred yards +away from me, so that I felt, to all intents and purposes, +absolutely alone. I am "free to confess," as our American cousins +say, that it was a very eerie sensation. It was now past ten +o'clock; the darkness was intense, and the silence as deep as the +darkness. + +Hot as the day had been, the night air felt chill, and a heavy dew +began to fall, showing me the wisdom of substituting woollen for +cotton garments. I could see the dim outlines of the high hills, +which shut in our happy valley on all sides, and the smell of the +freshly-turned earth of a paddock near the house, which was in +process of being broken up for English grass, came stealing towards +me on the silent air. The melancholy cry of a bittern, or the +shrill wail of the weka, startled me from time to time, but there +was no other sound to break the eternal silence. + +As I waited and watched, I thought, as every one must surely think, +with strange paradoxical feelings, of one's own utter insignificance +in creation, mingled with the delightful consciousness of our +individual importance in the eyes of the Maker and Father of all. +An atom among worlds, as one feels, sitting there at such an hour +and in such a spot, still we remember with love and pride, that not +a hair of our head falls to the ground unnoticed by an Infinite Love +and an Eternal Providence. The soul tries to fly into the boundless +regions of space and eternity, and to gaze upon other worlds, and +other beings equally the object of the Great Creator's care; but her +mortal wing soon droops and tires, and she is fain to nestle home +again to her Saviour's arms, with the thought, "I am my Beloved's, +and He is mine." That is the only safe beginning and end of all +speculation. It was very solemn and beautiful, that long dark +night,--a pause amid the bustle of every day cares and duties,-- +hours in which one takes counsel with one's own heart, and is still. + +Midnight had come and gone, when the sputter and snap of striking a +match, which sounded almost like a pistol shot amid the profound +silence, told me that one of the sportsmen had been successful. I +got up as softly as possible, wrapped my damp shawl round my still +damper shoulders, and, fastening the flax-stick securely in the +ground, stole along the bank of the creek towards the place where a +blazing tussock, serving as a torch, showed the successful +eel-fisher struggling with his prize. Through the gloom I saw +another weird-looking figure running silently in the same direction; +for the fact was, we were all so cramped and cold, and, weary of +sitting waiting for bites which never came, that we hailed with +delight a break in the monotony of our watch. It did not matter now +how much noise we made (within moderate limits), for the peace of +that portion of the creek was destroyed for the night. Half-a-dozen +eels must have banded themselves together, and made a sudden and +furious dash at the worsted ball, which Mr. U--- had been dangling +in front of their mud hall-door for the last two hours. Just as he +had intended, their long sharp teeth became entangled in the worsted +loops, and although he declared some had broken away and escaped, +three or four good-sized ones remained, struggling frantically. + +It would have been almost impossible for one man to lift such a +weight straight out of the water by a string; and as we came up and +saw Mr. U---'s agitated face in the fantastic flickering light of +the blazing tussock, which he had set on fire as a signal of +distress, I involuntarily thought of the old Joe Miller about the +Tartar: "Why don't you let him go?" "Because he has caught _me._" +It looked just like that. The furious splashing in the water below, +and Mr. U--- grasping his line with desperate valour, but being +gradually drawn nearer to the edge of the steep bank each instant. +"Keep up a good light, but not too much," cried F--- to me, in a +regular stage-whisper, as he rushed to the rescue. So I pulled up +one tussock after another by its roots,--an exertion which resulted +in upsetting me each time,--and lighted one as fast as its +predecessor burned out. They were all rather damp, so they did not +flare away too quickly. By the blaze of my grassy torches I saw F--- +first seize Mr. U--- round the waist and drag him further from the +bank; but the latter called out, "It's my hands,--they have no skin +left: do catch hold, there's a good fellow." So the "good fellow" +did catch hold, but he was too experienced an eel-fisher to try to +lift a couple of dozen pounds weight of eels out of the water by a +perpendicular string; so he tied it to a flax-bush near, and, +stooping down in order to get some leverage over the bank, very soon +drew the ball, with its slimy, wriggling captives, out of the water. +Just as he jerked it far on shore, one or two of the creatures broke +loose and escaped, leaving quite enough to afford a most disgusting +and horrible sight as they were shuffled and poked into the empty +flour-sack. + +The sportsmen were delighted however, and departed to a fresh bend +of the creek, leaving me to find my way back to my original post. +This would have been difficult indeed, had not Nettle remained +behind to guard my gloves, which I had left in his custody. As I +passed, not knowing I was so near the spot, the little dog gave a +low whimper of greeting, sufficient to attract my attention and +guide me to where he was keeping his faithful watch and ward. I +felt for my flax-stick and moved it ever so gently. A sudden jerk +and splash startled me horribly, and warned me that I had disturbed +an eel who was in the act of supping off my bait. In the momentary +surprise I suppose I let go, for certain it is that the next instant +my flax-stick was rapidly towed down the stream. + +Instead of feeling provoked or mortified, it was the greatest relief +to know that my eel-fishing was over for the night, and that now I +had nothing to do except "wait till called for." So I took Nettle +on my lap and tried to abide patiently, but I had not been long +enough in New Zealand to have any confidence in the climate, and as +I felt how damp my clothes were, and recollected with horror my West +Indian experiences of the consequences of exposure to night air and +heavy dew, my mind _would_ dwell gloomily on the prospect of a +fever, at least. It seemed a long and weary while before I +perceived a figure coming towards me; and I am afraid I was both +cross and cold and sleepy by the time we set our faces homewards. +"I have only caught three," said F---. "How many have you got?" +"None, I am happy to say," I answered peevishly, "What could Nettle +and I have done with the horrible things if we had caught any?" + +The walk, or rather the stumble home, proved to be the worst part of +the expedition. Not a ray of starlight had we to guide us,--nothing +but inky blackness around and over us. We tried to make Nettle go +first, intending to follow his lead, and trusting to his keeping the +track; but Nettle's place was at my heels, and neither coaxing nor +scolding would induce him to forego it. A forlorn hope was nothing +to the dangers of each footstep. First one and then the other +volunteered to lead the way, declaring they could find the track. +All this time we were trying to strike the indistinct road among the +tussocks, made by occasional wheels to our house, but the marks, +never very distinct in daylight, became perfect will-o'-the-wisps at +night. If we crossed a sheep-track we joyfully announced that we +had found the way, but only to be undeceived the next moment by +discovering that we were returning to the creek. + +From time to time we fell into and over Spaniards, and what was left +of our clothes and our flesh the wild Irishmen devoured. We must +have got home somehow, or I should not be writing an account of it, +at this moment, but really I hardly know how we reached the house. +I recollect that the next day there was a great demand for +gold-beater's skin, and court-plaster, and that whenever F--- and +Mr. U--- had a spare moment during the ensuing week, they devoted +themselves to performing surgical operations on each other with a +needle; and that I felt very subdued and tired for a day or two. +But there was no question of fever or cold, and I was stared at when +I inquired whether it was not dangerous to be out all night in heavy +dew after a broiling day. + +We had the eels made into a pie by our shepherd, who assured me that +if I entrusted them to my cook she would send me up such an oily +dish that I should never be able to endure an eel again. He +declared that the Maoris, who seem to have rather a horror of +grease, had taught him how to cook both eels and wekas in such a way +as to eliminate every particle of fat from both. I had no +experience of the latter dish, but he certainly kept his word about +the eels, for they were excellent. + + + +Chapter III: Pig-stalking. + + +It was much too hot in summer to go after wild pigs. That was our +winter's amusement, and very good sport it afforded us, besides the +pleasure of knowing that we were really doing good service to the +pastoral interest, by ridding the hills around us of almost the only +enemies which the sheep have. If the squatter goes to look after +his mob of ewes and lambs in the sheltered slopes at the back of his +run, he is pretty nearly certain to find them attended by an old sow +with a dozen babies at her heels. She will follow the sheep +patiently from one camping ground to another, watching for a +new-born and weakly lamb to linger behind the rest, and then she +will seize and devour it. Besides this danger, the presence of pigs +on the run keeps the sheep in an excited state. They have an uneasy +consciousness that their foes are looking after them, and they move +restlessly up and down the hills, not stopping to feed sufficiently +to get fat. If a sheep-farmer thinks his sheep are not in good +condition, one of the first questions he asks his shepherd is, "Are +there any pigs about?" Our run had a good many of these troublesome +visitors on it, especially in the winter, when they would travel +down from the back country to grub up acres on acres of splendid +sheep pasture in search of roots. The only good they do is to dig +up the Spaniards for the sake of their delicious white fibres, and +the fact of their being able to do this will give a better idea of +the toughness of a wild pig's snout than anything else I can say. + +It may be strange to English ears to hear a woman of tolerably +peaceful disposition, and as the advertisements in the _Times_ so +often state, "thoroughly domesticated," aver that she found great +pleasure in going after wild pigs; but the circumstances of the ease +must be taken into consideration before I am condemned. First of +all, it seemed terribly lonely at home if F--- was out with his +rifle all day. Next, there was the temptation to spend those +delicious hours of a New Zealand winter's day, between ten and. +four, out of doors, wandering over hills and exploring new gullies. +And lastly, I had a firm idea that I was taking care of F---. And +so I was in a certain sense, for if his rifle had burst, or any +accident had happened to him, and he had been unable to reach the +homestead, we should never have known where to find him, and days +would probably have passed before every nook and corner of a run +extending over many thousand acres could have been thoroughly +searched. + +I had heard terrible stories of shepherds slipping down and injuring +themselves so that they could not move, and of their dead bodies +being only found after weeks of careful seeking. F--- himself +delighted to terrify me by descriptions of narrow escapes; and, as +the pigs had to be killed, I resolved to follow in the hunter's +train. The sport is conducted exactly like deer stalking, only it +is much harder work, and a huge boar is not so picturesque an object +as a stag of many tines, when you do catch sight of him. There is +just the same accurate knowledge needed of the animal's habits and +customs, and the same untiring patience. It is quite as necessary +to be a good shot, for a grey pig standing under the lee of a +boulder of exactly his own colour is a much more difficult object to +hit from the opposite side of a ravine than a stag; and a wild boar +is every whit as keen of scent and sharp of eye and ear as any +antlered "Monarch of the Glen." + +Imagine then a beautiful winter's morning without wind or rain. +There has been perhaps a sharp frost over-night, but after a couple +of hours of sunshine the air is as warm and bright as midsummer. We +used to be glad enough of a wood fire at breakfast; but after that +meal had been eaten we went into the verandah, open to the +north-east (our warm quarter), which made a delicious winter +parlour, and basked in the blazing sunshine. I used often to bring +out a chair and a table, and work and read there all the morning, +without either hat or jacket. But it sometimes happened that once +or twice a week, on just such a lovely morning, F--- would proclaim +his intention of going out to look for pigs, and, sooner than be +left behind, I nearly always begged to be allowed to come too. +There was no fear of my getting tired or lagging behind; and as I +was willing to make myself generally useful, by carrying the +telescope, a revolver for close quarters, and eke a few sandwiches, +the offer of my company used to be graciously accepted. We could +seldom procure the loan of a good pig-dog, and after one excursion +with a certain dog of the name of "Pincher," I preferred going out +by ourselves. + + On that occasion F--- did not take his rifle, as there was no +chance of getting a long shot at our game; for the dog would surely +bring the pig to bay, and then the hunter must trust to a revolver +or the colonial boar-spear, half a pair of shears (I suppose it +should be called _a shear_) bound firmly on a flax stick by green +flax-leaves. We had heard of pigs having been seen by our +out-station shepherd at the back of the run, and as we were not +encumbered by the heavy rifle, we mounted our horses and rode as far +as we could towards the range where the pigs had been grubbing up +the hill sides in unmolested security for some time past. Five +miles from home the ground became so rough that our horses could go +no further; we therefore jumped off, tied them to a flax-bush, +taking off the saddles in case they broke loose, and proceeded on +foot over the jungly, over-grown saddle. On the other side we came +upon a beautiful gully, with a creek running through it, whose banks +were so densely fringed with scrub that we could not get through to +the stream, which we heard rippling amid the tangled shrubs. If we +could only have reached the water our best plan would have been to +get into it and follow its windings up the ravine; but even Pincher +could hardly squeeze and burrow through the impenetrable fence of +matapo and goi, which were woven together by fibres of a thorny +creeper called "a lawyer" by the shepherds. + + +It was very tantalising, for in less than five minutes we heard +trusty Pincher "speaking" to a boar, and knew that he had baled it +up against a tree, and was calling to us to come and help him. F--- +ran about like a lunatic, calling out; "Coming Pincher: round him +up, good dog!" and so forth; but they were all vain promises, for he +could not get in. I did my best in searching for an opening, and +gave many false hopes of having found one. At last I said, "If I +run up the mountain side, and look down on that mass of scrub, +perhaps I may see some way into it from above." "No: do you stay +here, and see, if the pig breaks cover, which way he goes." Up the +steep hill, therefore, F--- rushed, as swiftly and lightly as one of +his own mountain sheep; and in a minute or two I saw him standing, +revolver in hand, on an overhanging rock, peering anxiously down on +the leafy mass below. + +Pincher and the creek made such a noise between them that I could +not hear what F--- said, and only guessed from his despairing +gestures that there was no trap door visible in the green roof. I +signalled as well as I could that he was to come down directly, for +his-standing-place looked most insecure. Insecure indeed it proved. +As I spoke the great fragment of rock loosely embedded in earth on +the mountain side gave way with a crash, and came tumbling +majestically down on the top of the scrub. As for F---, he +described a series of somersaults in the air, which however +agreeable in themselves, were very trying to the nerves of the +spectatrix below. My first dread was least the rock should crush +him, but to my great joy I saw at once that it was rolling slowly +down the hill, whilst F---'s vigorous bound off it as it gave way, +had carried him well into the middle of the leafy cushion beneath +him, where he presently landed flat on his back! + +I expected every moment to hear the revolver go off, but mercifully +it did not do so; and as his thorny bed was hardly to be endured, +F--- soon kicked himself off it, and before I could realize that he +was unhurt, had scrambled to his feet, and was rushing off, crying +in school-boy glee, "That will fetch him out" That (the rock) +certainly did fetch him (the pig) out in a moment, and Pincher +availed himself of the general confusion to seize hold of his +enemy's hind leg, which he never afterwards let go. The boar kept +snapping and champing his great tusks; but Pincher, even with the +leg in his mouth, was too active to be caught: so as the boar found +that it was both futile and undignified to try to run away with a +dog hanging on his hind-quarters, he tried another plan. Making for +a clump of Ti-ti palms he went to bay, and contrived to take up a +very good defensive position. Pincher would have never given up his +mouthful of leg if F--- had not called him off, for it seemed +impossible to fire the revolver whilst the dog held on. This change +of tactics was much against Pincher's judgment, and he kept rushing +furiously in between F--- and the boar. As for me, I prudently +retired behind a big boulder, on which I could climb if the worst +came to the worst, and called out from time to time, to both dog and +man, "Oh, don't!" + +They did not even hear me, for the din of battle was loud. The pig +dodged about so fast, that although F---'s bullets lodged in the +palm tree at his back, not one struck a vulnerable part, and at last +F---, casting his revolver behind him for me to pick up and reload, +closed with his foe, armed only with the shear-spear. Pincher +considered this too dangerous, and rushed in between them to +distract the boar's attention. Just as F--- aimed a thrust at his +chest,--for it was of no use trying to penetrate his hide,--the boar +lowered his head, caught poor faithful Pincher's exposed flank, and +tore it open with his razor-like tusk; but in the meantime the spear +had gone well home into his brawny chest, exactly beneath the left +shoulder, and his life-blood came gushing out. I was so infuriated +at the sight of Pincher's frightful wound that I felt none of my +usual pity for the victim; and rushing up to F--- with the revolver, +of which only a couple of chambers were loaded, thrust it into his +hand with an entreaty to "kill him quickly." This F--- was quite +willing to do for his own sake, as a wounded boar is about the most +dangerous beast on earth; and although the poor brute kept snapping +at the broken flax-stick sticking in his heart, he fired a steady +shot which brought the pig on his knees, only to roll over dead the +next moment. + +I cannot help pausing to say that I sewed up Pincher's wound then +and there, with some of the contents of my Cambusmore house-wife; +which always accompanied me on my sporting expeditions, and we +carried him between us down to where the horses were fastened. +There I mounted; and F--- lifting the faithful creature on my lap, +we rode slowly home, dipping our handkerchiefs in cold water at +every creek we crossed, and laying them on his poor flank. He was +as patient and brave as possible, and bore his sufferings and +weakness for days afterwards in a way which was a lesson to one, so +grateful and gentle was he. His brave and sensible behaviour met +its due reward in a complete though slow recovery. + +I have only left myself space for one little sketch more; but it +comes so vividly before me that I cannot shut it out. After a long +day's walking, over the hills and vallies, so beautiful beneath our +azure winter-sky, walking which was delightful as an expedition, but +unsuccessful as to sport, we crossed the track of a large boar. We +knew he was old by his being alone, and it was therefore very +certain that he would show fight if we came up with him. Patiently +we followed the track over a low saddle, through a clump of +brushwood menuka, the broken twigs of which showed how large an +animal had just passed by. Here and there a freshly grubbed-up +Spaniard showed where he had paused for a snack; but at length we +dropped down on the river bed, with its wide expanse of shingle, and +there we lost all clue to our game. + +After a little hesitation, F--- decided on climbing a high cliff on +the right bank of the river, and trying to catch a glimpse of him. +The opposite hill-side was gaunt and bare; a southern aspect shut +out the sun in winter, and. for all its rich traces of copper ore, +"Holkam's Head" found no favour in the eyes of either shepherds or +master. Grass would not grow there except in summer, and its gray, +shingly sides were an eye-sore to its owner. We sat down on the +cliff, and looked around carefully. Presently F--- said, in a +breathless whisper of intense delight, "I see him." In vain I +looked and looked, but nothing could my stupid eyes discover. "Lie +down," said F--- to me, just as if I had been a dog. I crouched as +low as possible, whilst F---settled himself comfortably flat on his +stomach, and prepared to take a careful aim at the opposite side of +the hill. + +After what seemed a long time, he pulled his rifle's trigger, and +the flash and crack was followed apparently by one of the gray +boulders opposite leaping up, and then rolling heavily down the +hill. F--- jumped up in triumph crying, "Come along, and don't +forget the revolver." When we had crossed the river, reckless of +getting wet to our waists in icy-cold water, F--- took the revolver +from me and went first; but, after an instant's examination, he +called out, "Dead as a door-nail! come and look at him." So I came, +with great caution, and a more repulsive and disgusting sight cannot +be imagined than the huge carcass of our victim already stiffening +in death. The shot had been a fortunate one, for only an inch away +from the hole the bullet had made his shoulders were regularly +plated with thick horny scales, off which a revolver bullet would +have glanced harmlessly, and he bore marks of having fought many and +many a battle with younger rivals. His huge tusks were notched and +broken, and he had evidently been driven out from among his fellows +as a quarrelsome member of their society. Already the keen-eyed +hawks were hovering above the great monster, and we left him to his +fate in the solitary river gorge, where all was bleak and cold and +gloomy,--a fitting death-place for the fierce old warrior. + + + +Chapter IV: Skating in the back country. + + +I do not believe that even in Canada the skating can be better than +that which was within our reach in the Malvern Hills. Among our +sheltered valleys an sunny slopes the hardest frost only lasted a +few hour after dawn; but twenty-five miles further back, on the +border of the glacier region, the mountain tarns could boast of ice +several feet thick all the winter. We heard rumours of far-inland +lakes, across which heavily-laden bullock-teams could pass in +perfect safety for three months of the year, and we grumbled at the +light film over our own large ponds, which would not bear even my +little terrier's weight after mid-day: and yet it was cold enough at +night, during our short bright winters, to satisfy the most +icy-minded person. I think I have mentioned before that the wooden +houses in New Zealand, especially those roughly put together +up-country, are by no means weather-tight. Disagreeable as this may +be, it is doubtless the reason of the extraordinary immunity from +colds and coughs which we hill-dwellers enjoyed. Living between +walls formed by inch-boards over-lapping each other, and which can +only be made to resemble English rooms by being canvassed and +papered inside, the pure fresh air finds its way in on all sides. A +hot room in winter is an impossibility, in spite of drawn curtains +and blazing fires, therefore the risk of sudden changes of +temperature is avoided. + +Some such theory as this is absolutely necessary to account for the +wonderfully good health enjoyed by all, in the most capricious and +trying climate I have ever come across. When a strong nor'-wester +was howling down the glen, I have seen the pictures on my +drawing-room walls blowing out to an angle of 45 degrees, although +every door and window in the little low wooden structure had been +carefully closed for hours. It has happened to me more than once, +on getting up in the morning, to find my clothes, which had been +laid on a chair beneath my bedroom window overnight, completely +covered by powdered snow, drifting in through the ill-fitting +casement. This same window was within a couple of feet of my bed, +and between me and it was neither curtain nor shelter of any sort. +Of a winter's evening I have often been obliged to wrap myself up in +a big Scotch maud, as I sat, dressed in a high linsey gown, by a +blazing fire, so hard was the frost outside; but by ten o'clock next +morning I would be loitering about the verandah, basking in the +sunshine, and watching the light flecks of cloud-wreaths and veils +floating against an Italian-blue sky. Yet such is the inherent +discontent of the human heart, that instead of rejoicing in this +lovely mid-day sunshine, we actually mourned over the vanished ice +which at daylight had been found, by a much-envied early riser, +strong enough to slide on for half an hour. It seemed almost +impossible to believe that any one had been sliding that morning +within a few feet of where I sat working in a blaze of sunshine, +with my pretty grey and pink Australian parrot pluming itself on the +branch of a silver wattle close by, and "Joey," the tiny monkey from +Panama, sitting on the skirt of my gown, with a piece of its folds +arranged by himself shawl-wise over his glossy black shoulders. If +either of these tropical pets had been left out after four o'clock +that sunny day, they, would have been frozen to death before our +supper time. + +It was just on such a day as this, and in just such a bright mid-day +hour, that a distant neighbour of ours rode up to the garden gate, +leading a pack horse. Outside the saddle-bags, with which this +animal was somewhat heavily laden, could be plainly seen a beautiful +new pair of Oxford skates, glinting in the sunshine; and it must +have been the sight of these beloved implements which called forth +the half-envious remark from one of the gentlemen, "I suppose you +have lots of skating up at your place?" + +"Well, not exactly at my station, but there is a capital lake ten +miles from my house where I am sure of a good day's skating any time +between June and August," answered Mr. C. H---, our newly arrived +guest. + +We all looked at each other. I believe I heaved a deep sigh, and +dropped my thimble, which "Joey" instantly seized, and with a low +chirrup of intense delight, commenced to poke down between the +boards of the verandah. It was too bad of us to give such broad +hints by looks if not by words. Poor Mr. C. H--- was a bachelor in +those days: he had not been at his little out-of-the-way homestead +for some weeks, and was ignorant of its resources in the way of +firing (always an important matter at a station), or even of tea and +mutton. He had no woman-servant, and was totally unprepared for an +incursion of skaters; and yet,--New Zealand fashion,--no sooner did +he perceive that we were all longing and pining for some skating, +than he invited us all most cordially to go up to his back-country +run the very next day, with him, and skate as long as we liked. +This was indeed a delightful prospect, the more especially as it +happened to be only Monday, which gave us plenty of time to be back +again by Sunday, for our weekly service. We made it a rule never to +be away from home on that day, lest any of our distant congregation +should ride their twenty miles or so across country and find us +absent. + +When the host is willing and the guests eager, it does not take long +to arrange a plan, so the next morning found three of us, besides +Mr. C. H--- mounted and ready to start directly after breakfast. I +have often been asked how I managed in those days about toilette +arrangements, when it was impossible to carry any luggage except a +small "swag," closely packed in a waterproof case and fastened on +the same side as the saddle-pocket. First of all I must assure my +lady readers that I prided myself on turning out as neat and natty +as possible at the end of the journey, and yet I rode not only in my +every-day linsey gown, which could be made long or short at +pleasure, but in my crinoline. This was artfully looped up on the +right side and tied by a ribbon, in such a way that when I came out +ready dressed to mount, no one in the world could have guessed that +I had on any _cage_ beneath my short riding habit with a loose tweed +jacket over the body of the dress. Within the "swag" was stowed a +brush and comb, collar, cuffs and handkerchiefs, a little necessary +linen, a pair of shoes, and perhaps a ribbon for my hair if I meant +to be very smart. On this occasion we all found that our skates +occupied a terribly large proportion both of weight and space in our +modest kits, but still we were much too happy to grumble. + +Where could you find a gayer quartette than started at an easy +canter up the valley that fresh bracing morning? From the very +first our faces were turned to the south-west, and before us rose +the magnificent chain of the Southern Alps, with their bold snowy +peaks standing out in a glorious dazzle against the cobalt sky. A +stranger, or colonially speaking, a "new chum," would have thought +we must needs cross that barrier-range before we could penetrate any +distance into the back country, but we knew of long winding vallies +and gullies running up between the giant slopes, which would lead +us, almost without our knowing how high we had climbed, up to the +elevated but sheltered plateau among the back country ranges where +Mr. C. H---'s homestead stood. There was only one steep saddle to +be crossed, and that lay between us and Rockwood, six miles off. It +was the worst part of the journey for the horses, so we had easy +consciences in dismounting and waiting an hour when we reached that +most charming and hospitable of houses. I had just time for one +turn round the beautiful garden, where the flowers and shrubs of old +England grew side by side with the wild and lovely blossoms of our +new island home, when the expected coo-e rang out shrill and clear +from the rose-covered porch. It was but little past mid-day when we +made our second start, and set seriously to work over fifteen miles +of fairly good galloping ground. This distance brought us well up +to the foot of a high range, and the last six miles of the journey +had to be accomplished in single file, and with great care and +discretion, for the track led through bleak desolate vallies, round +the shoulder of abutting spurs, through swamps, and up and down +rocky staircases. Mr. C. H--- and his cob both knew the way well +however, and my bay mare Helen had the cleverest legs and the wisest +as well as prettiest head of her race. If left to herself she +seldom made a mistake, and the few tumbles she and I ever had +together, took place only when she found herself obliged to go my +way instead of her own. We entered the gorges of the high mountains +between us and the west, and soon lost the sun; even the brief +winter twilight faded away more swiftly than usual amid those dark +defiles; and it was pitch dark, though only five o'clock, when we +heard a sudden and welcome clamour of dog voices. + +These deep-mouthed tones invariably constitute the first notes of a +sheep-station's welcome; and a delightful sound it is to the belated +and bewildered traveller, for besides guiding his horse to the right +spot, the noise serves to bring out some one to see who the +traveller may be. On this occasion we heard one man say to the +other, "It's the boss:" so almost before we had time to dismount +from our tired horses (remember they had each carried a heavy "swag" +besides their riders), lights gleamed from the windows of the little +house, and a wood fire sparkled and sputtered on the open hearth. +Mr. C. H--- only just guided me to the door of the sitting-room, +making an apology and injunction together,--"Its very rough I am +afraid: but you can do what you like;"--before he hastened back to +assist his guests in settling their horses comfortably for the +night. Labour used to be so dear and wages so high, especially in +the back country of New Zealand, that the couple of men,--one for +indoor work, to saw wood, milk, cook, sweep, _wash_, etc., and the +other to act as gardener, groom, ploughman, and do all the numerous +odd jobs about a place a hundred miles and more from the nearest +shop,--represented a wage-expenditure of at least 200 pounds a year. +Every gentleman therefore as a matter of course sees to his own +horse when he arrives unexpectedly at a station, and I knew I should +have at least half an hour to myself. + +The first thing to do was to let down my crinoline, for I could only +walk like a crab in it when it was fastened up for riding, kilt up +my linsey gown, take off my hat and jacket, and set to work The +curtains must be drawn close, and the chairs moved out from their +symmetrical positions against the wall; then I made an expedition +into the kitchen, and won the heart of the stalwart cook, who was +already frying chops over the fire, by saying in my best German," I +have come to help you with the tea." Poor man! it was very unfair, +for Mr. C. H--- had told me during our ride that his servitor was a +German, and I had employed the last long hour of the journey in +rubbing up my exceedingly rusty knowledge of that language, and +arranging one or two effective sentences. Poor Karl's surprise and +delight knew no bounds, and he burst forth into a long monologue, to +which I could find no readier answers than smiles and nods, hiding +my inability to follow up my brilliant beginning under the pretence +of being very busy. By the time the gentlemen had stabled and fed +the horses and were ready, Karl and I between us had arranged a +bright cosy little apartment with a capital tea-dinner on the table. +After this meal there were pipes and toddy, and as I could not +retire, like Mrs. Micawber at David Copperfield's supper party, into +the adjoining bedroom and sit by myself in the cold, I made the best +of the somewhat dense clouds of smoke with which I was soon +surrounded, and listened to the fragmentary plans for the next day. +Then we all separated for the night, and in two minutes I was fast +asleep in a little room no bigger than the cabin of a ship, with an +opossum rug on a sofa for my bed and bedding. + +It was cold enough the next morning, I assure you: so cold that it +was difficult to believe the statement that all the gentlemen had +been down at daybreak to bathe in the great lake which spread like +an inland sea before the bay-window of the little sitting room. +This lake, the largest of the mountain chain, never freezes, on +account partly of its great depth, and also because of its sunny +aspect. Our destination lay far inland, and if we meant to have a +good long day's skating we must start at once. Such a perfect day +as it was! I felt half inclined to beg off the first day on the +ice, and to spend my morning wandering along the rata-fringed shores +of Lake Coleridge, with its glorious enclosing of hills which might +fairly be called mountains; but I feared to seem capricious or lazy, +when really my only difficulty was in selecting a pleasure. The sun +had climbed well over the high barriers which lay eastwards, and was +shining brightly down through the quivering blue ether overhead; the +frost sparkled on every broad flax-blade or slender tussock-spine, +as if the silver side of earth were turned outwards that winter +morning. + +No sooner had we mounted (with no "swag" except our skates this +time) than Mr. C. H--- set spurs to his horse, and bounded over the +slip-rail of the paddock before Karl could get it down. We were too +primitive for gates in those parts: they only belonged to the +civilization nearer Christchurch; and I had much ado to prevent my +pony from following his lead, especially as the other gentlemen were +only too delighted to get rid of some of their high spirits by a +jump. However Karl got the top rail down for me, and "Mouse" hopped +over the lower one gaily, overtaking the leader of the expedition in +a very few strides. We could not keep up our rapid pace long; for +the ground became terribly broken and cut up by swamps, quicksands, +blind creeks, and all sorts of snares and pit-falls. Every moment +added to the desolate grandeur of the scene. Bleak hills rose up on +either hand, with still bleaker and higher peaks appearing beyond +them again. An awful silence, unbroken by the familiar cheerful +sound of the sheep calling to each other,--for even the hardy merino +cannot live in these ranges during the winter months,--brooded +around us, and the dark mass of a splendid "bush," extending over +many hundred acres, only added to the lonely grandeur of the scene. +We rode almost the whole time in a deep cold shade, for between us +and the warm sun-rays were such lofty mountains that it was only for +a few brief noontide moments he could peep over their steep sides. + +After two hour's riding, at the best pace which we could keep up +through these terrible gorges, a sharp turn of the track brought us +full in view of our destination. I can never forget that first +glimpse of Lake Ida. In the cleft of a huge, gaunt, bare hill, +divided as if by a giant hand, lay a large _black_ sheet of ice. No +ray of sunshine ever struck it from autumn until spring, and it +seemed impossible to imagine our venturing to skate merrily in such +a sombre looking spot. But New-Zealand sheep farmers are not +sentimental I am afraid. Beyond a rapid thought of self- +congratulation that such "cold country" was not on _their_ run, they +did not feel affected by its eternal silence and gloom. The ice +would bear, and what more could skater's heart desire? At the end +of the dark tarn, nearest to the track by which we had approached +it, stood a neat little hut; and judge of my amazement when, as we +rode up to it, a young gentleman, looking as if he was just going +out for a day's deer-stalking, opened the low door and came out to +greet us. Yes, here was one of those strange anomalies peculiar to +the colonies. A young man, fresh from his University, of refined +tastes and cultivated intellect, was leading here the life of a +boor, without companionship or appreciation of any sort. His "mate" +seemed to be a rough West countryman, honest and well meaning +enough, but utterly unsuited to Mr. K---. It was the old story, of +wild unpractical ideas hastily carried out. Mr. K--- had arrived in +New Zealand a couple of years before, with all his worldly wealth,-- +1,000 pounds. Finding this would not go very far in the purchase of +a good sheep-run, and hearing some calculations about the profit to +be derived from breeding cattle, based upon somebody's lucky +speculation, he eagerly caught at one of the many offers showered +upon unfortunate "new chums," and bought the worst and bleakest bit +of one of the worst and bleakest runs in the province. The +remainder of his money was laid out in purchasing stock; and now he +had sat down patiently to await, in his little hut, until such time +as his brilliant expectations would be realized. I may say here +they became fainter and fainter year by year, and at last faded away +altogether; leaving him at the end of three lonely, dreadful years +with exactly half his capital, but double his experience. However +this has nothing to do with my story, except that I can never think +of our skating expedition to that lonely lake, far back among those +terrible hills, without a thrill of compassion for the only living +human being, who dwelt among them. + +It was too cold to dawdle about, however, that day. The frost lay +white and hard upon the ground, and we felt that we were cruel in +leaving our poor horses standing to get chilled whilst we amused +ourselves. Although my beloved Helen was not there, having been +exchanged for the day in favour of Master Mouse, a shaggy pony, +whose paces were as rough as its coat, I begged a red blanket from +Mr. K---, and covered up Helen's stable companion, whose sleek skin +spoke of a milder temperature than that on Lake Ida's "gloomy +shore." Our simple arrangements were soon made. Mr. K--- left +directions to his mate to prepare a repast consisting of tea, bread, +and mutton for us, and, each carrying our skates, we made the best +of our way across the frozen tussocks to the lake. Mr. K--- proved +an admirable guide over its surface, for he was in the habit during +the winter of getting all his firewood out of the opposite "bush," +and bringing it across the lake on sledges drawn by bullocks. We +accused him of having cut up our ice dreadfully by these means; but +he took us to a part of the vast expanse where an unbroken field of +at least ten acres of ice stretched smoothly before us. Here were +no boards marked "DANGEROUS," nor any intimation of the depth of +water beneath. The most timid person could feel no apprehension on +ice which seemed more solid than the earth; so accordingly in a few +moments we had buckled and strapped on our skates, and were skimming +and gliding--and I must add, falling--in all directions. We were +very much out of practice at first, except Mr. K---, who skated +every day, taking short cuts across the lake to track a stray heifer +or explore a blind gully. + +I despair of making my readers see the scene as I saw it, or of +conveying any adequate idea of the intense, the appalling loneliness +of the spot. It really seemed to me as if our voices and laughter, +so far from breaking the deep eternal silence, only brought it out +into stronger relief. On either hand rose up, shear from the waters +edge, a great, barren, shingly mountain; before us loomed a dark +pine forest, whose black shadows crept up until they merged in the +deep _crevasses_ and fissures of the Snowy Range. Behind us +stretched the winding gullies by which we had climbed to this +mountain tarn, and Mr. K---'s little hut and scrap of a garden and +paddock gave the one touch of life, or possibility of life, to this +desolate region. In spite of all scenic wet blankets we tried hard +to be gay, and no one but myself would acknowledge that we found the +lonely grandeur of our "rink" too much for us. We skated away +perseveringly until we were both tired and hungry, when we returned +to Mr. K---'s hut, took a hasty meal, and mounted our chilled +steeds. Mr. C. H--- insisted on bringing poor Mr. K--- back with +us, though he was somewhat reluctant to come, alleging that a few +days spent in the society of his kind made the solitude of his +weather-board hut all the more dreary. The next day and yet the +next we returned to our gloomy skating ground, and when I turned +round in my saddle as we rode away on Friday evening, for a last +look at Lake Ida lying behind us in her winter black numbness, her +aspect seemed more forbidding than ever, for only the bare steep +hill-sides could be seen; the pine forest and white distant +mountains were all blotted and blurred out of sight by a heavy pall +of cloud creeping slowly up. + +"Let us ride fast," cried Mr. K---, "or we shall have a sou'-wester +upon us;" so we galloped home as quickly as we could, over ground +that I don't really believe I could summon courage to walk across, +ever so slowly, to-day,--but then one's nerves and courage are in +very different order out in New Zealand to the low standard which +rules for ladies in England, who "live at home in ease!" Long +before we reached home the storm was pelting us: my little jacket +was like a white board when I took it off, for the sleet and snow +had frozen as it fell. I was wet to the skin, and so numb with cold +I could hardly stand when we reached home at last in the dark and +down-pour. I could only get my things very imperfectly dried, and +had to manage as best I could, but yet no one even thought of making +the inquiry next morning when I came out to breakfast, "Have you +caught cold?" It would have seemed a ridiculous question. + + + +Chapter V: Toboggon-ing. + +I cannot resist the temptation to touch upon one of the winter +amusements which came to us two years later. Yet the word +"amusement" seems out of place, no one in the Province having much +heart to amuse themselves, for the great snow storm of August, 1867, +had just taken place, and we were in the first days of bewilderment +at the calamity which had befallen us all. A week's incessant +snow-fall, accompanied by a fierce and freezing south-west wind, had +not only covered the whole of the mountains from base to brow with +shining white, through which not a single dark rock jutted, but had +drifted on the plains for many feet deep. Gullies had been filled +up by the soft, driving flakes, creeks were bridged over, and for +three weeks and more all communication between the stations and the +various townships was cut off. The full extent of our losses was +unknown to us, and dreary as were our forebodings of misfortune, +none of us guessed that snow to be the winding sheet of half a +million of sheep. The magnificent semi-circle of the Southern Alps +stood out, for a hundred miles from north to south, in appalling +white distinctness, and no one in the whole Colony had ever seen the +splendid range thus free from fleck or flaw. We had done all we +could within working distance, but what was, the use of digging in +drifts thirty feet deep? Amidst, and almost above, the terrible +anxiety about our own individual safety,--for the snow was over the +roof of many of the station-houses,--came the pressing question, +"Where are the sheep?" A profound silence unbroken by bleat of +lamb, or bark of dog, or any sound of life, had reigned for many +days, when a merciful north-westerly gale sprung, up, and releasing +the heavily-laden earth from its white bondage, freed the miserable +remnant of our flocks and herds. At least, I should say, it freed +those sheep which had travelled down to the vallies, driven before +the first pitiless gusts, but we knew that many hundreds, if not +thousands, of wethers must have been surprised and imprisoned far +back among the hills. + +Such knowledge could not be acted upon, however, for no human being +could hope to plunge through the drifts around us. Old shepherds +who had lived on the run for fifteen years, confessed that they did +not know their way fifty yards from the homestead. The vallies were +filled up, so that one gully looked precisely like its fellow; +rocks, scrub, Ti-ti palms, all our local land-marks had disappeared; +not a fence or gate could be seen in all the country side. Here and +there a long wave-like line in the smooth mass would lead us to +suppose that a wire fence lay buried beneath its curves, but we had +no means of knowing for certain. Near the house every shrub and +out-building, every hay-stack or wood-heap, had all been covered up, +and no man might even guess where they lay. + +This had been the terrible state of things, and although the blessed +warm wind had removed our immediate and pressing fear of starvation, +we could not hope to employ ourselves in searching for our missing +sheep for many days to come. None of us had been able to take any +exercise for more than a fortnight, and having done all that could +possibly be done near at hand, F--- set to work to manufacture some +sledges out of old packing-cases. Quite close to the house, a hill +sloped smoothly for about 300 yards, at an angle of 40 degrees; +along its side lay a perfectly level and deep drift, which did not +show any signs of thawing for more than a month, and we resolved to +use this as a natural _Montagne Russe_. The construction of a +suitable sledge was the first difficulty to be surmounted, and many +were the dismal failures and break-neck catastrophes which preceded +what we considered a safe and successful vehicle. Not only was it +immensely difficult to make, without either proper materials or +tools, a sledge which could hold two people (for F--- declared it +was no fun sleighing alone), but his "patent brakes" proved the most +broken of reeds to lean upon when the sledge was dashing down the +steep incline at the rate of a thousand miles an hour. + +We nearly broke our necks more than once, and I look back now with +amazement to our fool-hardiness. How well I remember one +expedition, when F---, who had been hammering away in a shed all the +morning, came to find me sitting in the sun in the verandah, and to +inform me that at last he had perfected a conveyance which would +combine speed with safety. Undaunted by previous mishaps, I sallied +forth, and in company with Mr. U--- and F---, climbed painfully up +the high hill I have mentioned, by some steps which they had cut in +the frozen snow. Without some such help we could not have kept our +footing for a moment, and as long as I live I shall never forget the +sensation of leaving my friendly Alpenstock planted in the snow, and +of seating myself on that frail sledge. Perhaps I ought to describe +it here. A board, about six feet long by one foot broad, with +sheet-iron nailed beneath it, and curved upwards in front; on its +upper surface a couple of battens were fixed, one quite at the +foremost end, and one half-way. That was F---'s new patent sledge, +warranted to go faster down an incline than any other conveyance on +the surface of the earth. I was the wretched "passenger," as he +called me, on more than one occasion, and I will briefly describe my +experiences. "Why did you go?" is a very natural question to arise +in my reader's mind; and sitting here at my writing-table, I feel as +if I must have been a lunatic to venture. But in those delicious +wild days, no enterprise seemed too rash or dangerous to engage in, +from mounting a horse which had never seen or felt the fluttering of +a habit, to embarking on the conveyance I have described above, and +starting down a mountain-side at the risk of a broken neck. + +Well, to return to that terrible moment. I see the whole scene now. +The frail, rude sledge, with its breaks made out of a couple of +standards from a wire fence, connected by a strong iron chain; F--- +seated at the back of the precious contrivance, firmly grasping a +standard in each hand; Mr. U--- clinging desperately to his +Alpen-stock with one hand, whilst with the other he helps me on to +the board; and Nettle, my dear little terrier, standing shivering on +three legs, sniffing distrustfully at the sledge. It is extremely +difficult even to take one's place on a board a dozen inches wide. +My petticoats have to be firmly wrapped around me, and care taken +that no fold projects beyond the sledge, or I should be soon dragged +out of my frail seat. I fix my feet firmly against the batten, and +F--- cries, "Are you ready?" "Oh, not yet!" I gasp, clinging to Mr. +U---'s hand as if I never meant to let it go. "Hold tight!" he +shouts. Now what a mockery this injunction was. I had nothing to +hold on to except my own knees, and I clasped them convulsively. +Mr. U--- says, "You're all right now," and before I can realize that +he has let go my hand, before my courage is half-way up to the +necessary height, we are off. The breaks are slightly depressed for +the first few yards, in order to regulate our pace, and because +there is a tremendously steep pitch just at first. Once we have +safely passed that he tilts up the standards, and our sledge shoots +like a meteor down the perfectly smooth incline. I cannot draw my +breath, we are going at such a pace through the keen air; I give +myself up for lost. We come to another steep pitch near the bottom +of the hill; F--- is laughing to such a degree at me that he does +not put down his breaks soon enough, and loses control of the +sledge. We appear to leap down the dip, and then the sledge turns +first one way and then the other, its zinc prow being sometimes +up-hill and some-times down. It seems wonderful that we keep on the +sledge, for we have no means of holding on except by pressing our +feet against the battens; yet in the grand and final upset at the +bottom of the hill, the sledge is there too, and we find we have +never parted company from it. + +Will any one believe that after such a perilous journey, I could +actually be persuaded to try again? But so it was. At first the +fright (for I was really terrified) used to make me very cross, and +I declared that I was severely hurt, if not "kilt entirely;" but +after I had shaken the snow out of my linsey skirt, and discovered +that beyond the damage to my nerves I was uninjured, F--- was quite +sure to try to persuade me to make another attempt, and I was +equally sure to yield to the temptation. As well as my memory +serves me, we only made one really successful journey, and that was +on an occasion when we kept the breaks down the whole way. But I +never could insure similar precautions being taken again, and we +consequently experienced every variety of mishaps possible to sledge +travellers. I persevered however for some days until the +north-westerly wind, which was blowing softly all the time, began to +lay bare the sharpest points of the rocks, and then I gave in at +once, and would not be a "passenger" any more. It was rather too +much to strike one's head against a jagged fragment of rock, or to +dislocate one's thumb against a concealed stump of a palm tree. Then +the sharp points of the Spaniards began to stick up through the +softening snow, and nothing would induce me to run the risk of +touching their green bayonets. Besides which, the fast-thawing snow +made it very difficult to climb up to the top of our hill, for the +carefully-cut steps had disappeared long ago. So I gave up sledge +journeys on my own account, and used only to look at F--- and +Mr. U--- taking them. + +These two persevered so long as an inch of snow remained on the +hill-side. Some of their adventures were very alarming, and +certainly rather dangerous. One afternoon I had been watching them +for more than an hour, and had seen them go through every variety of +disaster, and capsize with no further effect than increasing their +desire for "one more" trial. On the blind-side of the hill,--that +is to say the side which gets scarcely any sun in winter,--a deep +drift of snow still lingered, filling up a furrow made in former +years by a shingle-slip. Thither the two adventurous climbers +dragged their sledge, and down the steep incline they performed +their perilous descent many a time. I became tired of watching the +board shoot swiftly over the white streak; and I strolled round the +shoulder of the hill, to see if there was any appearance of the +snow-fall lessening in the back country. + +I must have been away about half an hour, and had made the circuit +of the little knoll which projected from the mountain side, +returning to where I expected to find sleigh and sleighers starting +perhaps on just "one more" journey. But no one was there, and a +dozen yards or so from the usual starting-point, the snow was a good +deal ploughed up and stained in large patches by blood. Here was an +alarming spectacle, though the only wonder was that a bad accident +had not occurred before. I saw the sledge, deserted and broken, +near the end of the drift: of the passengers there was neither sign +nor token. I must say I was terribly frightened, but it is useless +in New Zealand to scream or faint; the only thing to do in an +emergency is to _coo-e_; and so, although my heart was thumping +loudly in my ears, and at first I could not produce a sound, I +managed at last, after many attempts, to muster up a loud clear +_coo-e_. There was the usual pause, whilst the last sharp note rang +back from the hill-sides, and vibrated through the clear silent air; +and then, oh, welcome sound! I heard a vigorous answer from our own +flat where the homestead stood. I set off down-hill as fast as I +could, and had the joy, when I turned the slope which had hidden our +little house from my view, to see F--- and Mr. U--- walking about; +but even from that distance I could see that poor Mr. U---'s head +was bandaged up, and as soon as I got near enough to hear, F--- +shouted "I have broken my neck!" adding, "I am very hungry: let us +go in to supper." + +Under the circumstances these words were consolatory; and when I +came to hear the story, this was the way the accident happened. As +I mentioned before, even this drift had thawed till it was soft at +the surface and worn away almost to the rocks. During a rapid +descent the nose of the sledge dipped through the snow, and stopped +dead against a rock. Mr. U--- was instantly buried in the snow, +falling into a young but prickly Spaniard, which assaulted him +grievously; but F--- shot over his head some ten yards, turned a +somersault, and alit on his feet. This sounds a harmless +performance enough, but it requires practice; and F--- declared that +for weeks afterwards his neck felt twisted. The accident must have +looked very ridiculous: the sledge one moment gliding smoothly along +at the rate of forty miles an hour,--the next a dead stop, and F--- +flying through the air over his passenger's head, finishing feet +first plump down in the soft snow. + +Looking back on that time, I can remember how curiously soon the +external traces of the great snow-storm disappeared. For some weeks +after the friendly nor-wester, the air of the whole neighbourhood +was tainted by dead and decaying sheep and lambs; and the wire +fences, stock-yard rails, and every "coign of vantage," had to be +made useful but ghastly by a tapestry of sheep-skins. The only +wonder was that a single sheep had survived a storm severe enough to +kill wild pigs. Great boars, cased in hides an inch thick, had +perished through sheer stress of weather; while thin-skinned +animals, with only a few months growth of fine merino wool on their +backs, had endured it all. It was well known that the actual +destruction of sheep was mainly owing to the two days of heavy rain +which succeeded the snow. Out of a flock of 13,000 of all ages, we +lost, on the lowest calculation, 1,000 grown sheep and nearly 3,000 +lambs; and yet our loss was small by comparison with that of our +neighbours, whose runs were further back among the hill, and less +sheltered than our own. + +Long before midsummer our cloud-shadowed hills were green once more; +and I think I see again their beautiful outlines, their steep sides +planted with semi-tropical palms and grasses, whilst the more +distant peaks are veiled in a sultry haze. During that peculiarly +bright and lovely summer we often ask each other, Could it have been +true that no one knew one mountain from the other, and that hills +had been apparently levelled and vallies filled up by the heaviest +snow-fall ever known. But whilst the words were on our lips, we +could see a group of palm-trees, ten feet high, with their topmost +leaves gnawed to the stump by starving sheep, that must have been +standing on at least seven feet of snow to reach them; and there was +scarcely a creek on the run whose banks were not strewn, for many a +long day, by bare and bleaching bones. + + + +Chapter VI: Buying a run. + + +Like many other people in the world, I have occasionally built +castles in the air, and equally of course they have invariably +tumbled down in due time with a crash This particular castle +however, not only attained to a great elevation in the visionary +builder's eyes, but it covered so vast an area of land, that the +story of its rise and fall deserves to be placed on record, as a +warning to aerial architects and also as a beacon-light to young +colonists. + +This was exactly the way it all happened. The new year of 186- +found us living very quietly and happily on a small compact +sheep-farm, at the foot of the Malvern Hills, in the province of +Canterbury, New Zealand. As runs went, its dimensions were small +indeed; for we only measured it at 12,000 acres, all told. The +great tidal wave of prosperity, which sets once in a while towards +the shores of all colonies, had that year swelled and risen to its +full force; but this we did not know. Borne aloft upon its +unsubstantial crest we could not, from that giddy height, discern +any water-valleys of adversity or clouds of change and storm along +the shining horizon of the new world around us. All our +calculations were based on the assumption that the existing prices +for sheep, wool, cattle, and all farm-produce, would rule for many a +long day; and the delightful part of this royal road to wealth was, +that its travellers need not exert themselves in any way: they had +only to sit still with folded hands whilst their sheep increased, +and it was well known that a flock doubled itself in three short +years. The obvious deduction from this agreeable numerical fact +was, that in an equally short period your agent's payments to your +bank account would also be doubled. In the meantime the drays were +busy carting the wool to the seaports as fast as they could be +loaded, whilst speculative drovers rode all about the country buying +up the fat cattle and wethers from every run. These were wanted to +supply the West Coast Diggings which had just "broken out" (as the +curious phrase goes there), and so was every description of grain +and dairy produce. + +We squatters were not the only inhabitants of this fool's paradise. +The local Government began planning extensive works: railways were +laid out in every direction, bridges planned across rivers, which +proved the despair of engineers; whilst a tunnel, the wonder of the +Southern Hemisphere, was commenced through a range of hills lying +between Port Lyttleton and Christchurch. All this work was +undertaken on a scale of pay which made the poor immigrants who +thronged to the place by every ship, rub their eyes and believe they +must be dreaming, and that they would presently wake up and find +themselves back again in the old country, at the old starvation rate +of wages. Small capitalists, with perhaps only one or two hundred +pounds in the world, bid against each other as purchasers of +quarter-acre sections in the fast-springing townships, or of +fifty-acre lots of arable land in the projected suburbs. +Subscriptions were raised for building a Cathedral in Christchurch; +but so dear was both labour and material, that 7,000 pounds barely +sufficed to lay its foundations. + +The paramount anxiety in men's minds seemed to be to secure land. +Sheep-runs in sheltered accessible parts of the country commanded +enormous prices, and were bought in the most complicated way. The +first comers had taken up vast tracts of land in all directions from +the Government, at an almost nominal rental. This had happened +quite in the dark and remote ages of the history of the colony, at +least ten or twelve years before the date of which I write. As +speculators with plenty of hard cash came down from Australia, these +original tenants sold, as it were, the good-will and stock of their +run at enormous prices; but what always seemed to me so hard was, +that after you had paid any number of thousand pounds for your run, +you might have to buy it all, or at any rate, some portion of it, +over again. Land could only be purchased freehold from the +Government, for 2 pounds an acre; and if a "cockatoo" (i.e., a small +farmer), or a speculator in mines, fancied any part of your +property, he had only to go to the land office, and challenge your +pre-emptive rights. The officials gave you notice of the challenge, +and six weeks' grace in which to raise the money, and buy it +freehold yourself; but few sheep-farmers could afford to pay a good +many hundred pounds unexpectedly to secure even their best "flats" +or vallies. Hence it often happened that large runs in the most +favourable situations were cut up by small investors, "free +selectors" as they are called in Australia, and it used to be rather +absurd the way one grew to distrust any stranger who was descried +riding about the run. The poor man might be looking for a stray +horse, or have lost his way, but we always fancied he must be +"prospecting" for either gold or coals, or else be a "cockatoo" +disguised as a traveller. + +Such was the state of things when my story opens. Shearing was just +over, and we knew to a lamb how rapidly our flocks and herds were +increasing. A succession of mild winters and early genial springs +had got the flock into capital order. The wool had all been sent +off to Christchurch by drays, the sheep were turned out on the +beautiful green hills for ten months of perfect rest and peace; +whilst the dogs, who had barked themselves quite hoarse, were +enabled to desist from their labours in mustering and watching the +yet unshorn mobs on the vallies. Although our run was as well +grassed and watered as any in the province, still it could not +possibly carry more than a certain number of sheep, and to that +total our returns showed that we were rapidly approaching. The most +careful calculations warned us that by next shearing we should +hardly know what to do with our sheep. It is always better to be +under than overstocked, for the merino gets out of condition +immediately, and even the staple of the wool deteriorates if its +wearer be at all crowded on his feeding-grounds. + +"You must take up more country directly," was the invariable formula +of the advice we, comparatively "new chums," received on all sides. +This was easier to say than to do. Turn which ever way we would, +far back beyond our own lovely vallies and green hills, back up to +the bleak region of glaciers, where miles of bush and hundreds of +acres of steep hill-side, formed the _back-est_ of "back country," +every inch of land was taken up. No fear had those distant +Squatters of "cockatoos," or even of miners; for no one came their +way who could possibly help it. Still we should have been +comparatively glad to buy such a run fifty or sixty miles further +back,--at the foot, in fact of the great Southern Alps,--just as a +summer feeding-ground for the least valuable portion of our flock. +But no one was inclined to part with a single acre, and we were +forced to turn our eyes in a totally different direction. + +If my readers will refer to the accompanying map of New Zealand, and +look at the Middle or South Island, they will notice a long seaboard +on the eastern side of the island, stretching SS.W. for many hundred +leagues. It extends beyond the Province of Canterbury to that of +Otago, and embraces some of the most magnificent pastoral land in +the settlement. Not only is the soil rich and productive, but the +climate is rather less windy than with us in the northern portion of +the island; and the capital of Otago (Dunedin) had risen into +comparative position and importance before Christchurch,--was in +short an elder sister of that pretty little town. Most of the +settlers in Otago were Scotchmen, and as there are no better +colonists anywhere, its prosperity had attained to a very +flourishing height. Gold-digging had also broken out at the foot of +the Dunstan range, so that Otago held her head quite as high, if not +higher, than her neighbour Canterbury. Of course all the +first-class pasture-land "down south," as it was called, had been +taken up long before; but we heard rumours of splendid sheep +country, yet unappropriated, far back towards the west coast of +Otago, just where its boundary joined Canterbury. + +With our minds in this state of desire for what poor Mazzini used to +denounce as "territorial aggrandisement," we paid our usual +post-shearing visit to Christchurch. F--- had his agent's accounts +to examine, a nice little surplus of wool-money to receive, and many +other squatting interests to attend to; whilst I had to lay in +chests of tea, barrels of sugar and rice, hundreds of yards of +candle-wick, flower-seeds, reels of cotton, and many other +miscellaneous articles. But through all our pleasant, happy little +bustle ran the constant thought: "What shall we do for more +country?" A day or two before the expiration of the week's leave of +absence which we always gave ourselves, F--- came into my +sitting-room at the hotel, flung down his hat on the table with an +air of triumph, and cried, "I've heard of such a splendid run! One +hundred thousand acres of beautiful sheep-country, and going for a +mere song!" Now I had lived long enough in the world to discover +that one sometimes danced on the wrong foot to the tune of these +"mere songs," so I cautiously inquired, "Where is it?" F--- seemed +a little dashed that the only question which he could not answer +favourably should be the first I asked, and he replied vaguely, +"Well, it is rather a long way off, but I am sure we can manage it." +A little more sifting elicited the fact that this "desirable +investment" stretched along the shores of Lake Wanaka, famous for +its beautiful scenery, and was to be had for what. certainly seemed +a ridiculously small sum;--only a few hundred pounds. "Of course it +has no sheep on it," added F---; "but that is all the better. I'll +burn it this year, and then turn some cattle on it, and after next +shearing we'll have a good mob of sheep to draft out and stock it." +He further added, that he had invited his man of business and the +individual who owned this magnificent property to dine with us that +evening, and that then I should hear all about it And I may truly +say that I _did_ hear about it, for my brain reeled with figures and +calculations. By bedtime I was wondering if we could possibly spend +the enormous fortune which would be quite certain to accrue to us in +a few years if only we could make up our minds to invest the modest +balance at our bankers in this tempting bargain. I remember well +that I found myself wishing we were not going to be _quite_ so rich; +half our promised income would have been ample, I thought. My +anxieties on that score turned out to have been, to say the least, +premature. + +Not to make my story too long, I may briefly say that after making +due allowance for the natural exaggeration of the owner, the run on +Lake Wanaka's shores seemed certainly to offer many attractions. +Besides thousands of acres of beautiful sheltered sheep country, it +was said to possess a magnificent bush, in which sawyers were +already hard at work. Of course all this timber would become our +own, and we were to make so much a year by selling it. "How about +the carriage?" inquired F--- cautiously, having visions of costly +bullock-drays, and teams and drivers at fabulous wages. "Oh, the +lake is your highway," replied the would-be seller, airily; "you +have nothing to do but lash your felled trees together, as they do +in the mahogany-growing countries, and set them afloat on the lake, +they will thus form a natural raft, and cost you little or nothing +to get down to a good market. You know the Dunstan diggings are +just at the foot of the lake, and they haven't a stick there; timber +is very badly wanted in those parts, not only for fuel and building, +but also for slabbing the shafts which the miners sink." + +By the time the coffee was served F--- had made up his mind to buy +the Lake Wanaka run; his business agent urging him strongly not to +hesitate for a moment in securing such a chance. The negotiations +reached thus far without the least hitch, but at this point F--- +said, "Well, I'll tell you what I'll do: we will start in a day or +two and go straight up to this run and look round it, and if I find +it anything like so good as you both make it out, I'll buy it on the +spot." + +Never did that sociable little word "we" sound so delightful to my +ears! "Then I am to come too," I thought to myself, but I prudently +concealed from the company that I had ever had any misgivings on +that point. However, the company did not concern themselves with my +doubts and fears, for our two guests seemed much taken aback at this +very matter-of-fact proposal of F---'s. "That won't do at all, my +dear fellow," said the owner of the run; "I am going to England by +the next mail steamer, which you know sails next week, and the +reason I am literally giving away my property is that I don't want +any suspense or bother. Take it or leave it, just as you like. +There's Wilkinson and Fairwright and a lot of others all clamouring +for the refusal of it, and I've only waited to see if you really +wanted it before closing with Fairwright. He is walking about with +a cheque all ready filled up in his pocket, and only begging and +praying me to let him have the run on my own terms. Why you might +be weather-bound or kept there for a month, and what shall I do +then? No, its all just as I've told you, and you can call it your +own to-morrow, but I can't possibly wait for you to go and look at +it." No words of mine can give any idea of the tone of scorn in +which our guest pronounced these last three words; as if looking at +an intended purchase was at once the meanest and most absurd thing +in-the world. F--- seemed half ashamed of himself for his proposal, +but still he urged that he never liked to take a leap in the dark, +backing up his opinion by several world-revered adages. "That's all +very fine," chimed in our precious business adviser," but this +transaction can hardly be said to be in the dark; here are the plans +and the Government lease and the transfer deeds, all regular and +ready." With this he produced the plans, and then it was all up +with us. Who does not know the peculiar _smell_ of tracing-paper, +with its suggestions of ownership? When these fresh and crackling +drawings were opened before us they resembled nothing so much as a +veritable paradise. There shone the lake--a brilliant patch of +cobalt blue, bordered by outlines of vivid green pasture and belts +of timber. Here and there, on the outskirts, we read the words, +"proposed township," "building lots," "probable gold fields," "saw +mills." F--- laid his hand down over a large wash of light green +paint and asked," Now what sort of country is this; really and +truly, you know?" "First class sheep country, I give you my word," +replied the owner eagerly, "only wants to be stocked for a year or +two." + +Why need I go on? It was the old, old story of misplaced confidence. +Neither F--- nor I could believe that our friends would wilfully +over-reach us, so it was settled that the first thing next morning +the money should be handed over and the Government lease transferred +to us. We decided that as we were so far on the way to our new +property, we would go and look at it before returning to the Malvern +Hills, and the next few days were very busy ones, as we had to +arrange our small domestic affairs, send up the dray, etc., etc. I +felt rather anxious at the postponement of our return home, for I +had left several "clutches" of eggs on the point of being hatched, +and I had grave misgivings as to the care my expected ducklings and +chickens would receive at the lands of my scatter-brained maid +servants, to say nothing of the dangers besetting them from hawks +and rats. However, small interests must give way to great ones, and +F--- and I were already tasting the cares of proprietorship. Our +friend, the former owner of our new property, sailed for England in +the mail steamer, in high spirits, saying cordially as he shook F---'s +hand at parting, "Well you _have_ got your fortune cut out for you, +and no mistake; I feel half sorry already to think that I've +parted with that run." About two days after his departure, F--- who +had registered his name at the land office as the present tenant of +100,000 acres in the Lake Wanaka district, received a polite request +from official quarters to pay up the annual rent, just due, +amounting to 100 pounds or so. We had effected our brilliant +negotiations about a week too soon it seemed, but that was our own +fault, so we had nothing to do but pay the money with as good a +grace as possible. I am "free to confess" that this second cheque +ran our banker's account very fine indeed, but still in those palmy +days of the past this was no subject of uneasiness to a squatter. +His credit was almost unlimited, and he could always raise as much +money as he liked on an hypothecation of next year's wool. But we +had not come to that yet. The weather was delightful; the customary +week of heavy rain just after our midsummer Christmas, had cooled +the air and laid the dust, besides bringing out a fresh spring-like +green tint over the willows and poplars, and causing even the leaves +of the gums to lose their leather-like look for a few days. + +After much consultation we decided to go by coach as far as Timaru, +and then trust to circumstances to decide our future means of +transport. Not only were we obliged to pay a large sum for our +places but our luggage was charged for by the pound, so we found it +necessary to reduce our kit to the most modest dimensions, and only +to take what was absolutely necessary. The journey was a long and +weary one, the only variety being caused by a strong spice of danger +at each river. At some streams we were transferred bodily to a +large raft-like ferry boat, and so taken across. At others the +passengers and luggage only were put into the boat, the lumbering +coach with its leathern springs left behind, whilst the horses swam +in our wake across the wide and rushing river, to be re-harnessed to +another coach on the opposite shore. The Rakaia, Ashburton, and +Rangitata had been crossed in this way, and we had reached the +Otaio, a smaller river, when we found a new mode of transport +awaiting us. A large dray with a couple of powerful horses was in +readiness, and into this springless vehicle we were unceremoniously +bundled. The empty coach and horses was driven over at another part +of the stream. I shall never forget the jolting: the river must +have been at least a quarter of a mile wide at that reach, and over +its bed of boulders and rocks we bumped In the middle stretched a +long strip of shingle, which seemed as smooth as turf by contrast +with the first half of the river-bed. When we charged into the +water again our driver removed his pipe from his mouth, looked over +his shoulder and remarked, "River's come down since mornin'; best +tuck up your feet, marms all." I can answer for this "marm" tucking +up her feet with great agility, and not a moment too soon either, +for as a light wind was blowing, a playful wave came rippling over +and through the planked floor of the dray, floating all the smaller +parcels about. But no one could speak, we were so jolted: it +literally seemed as if our spines _must_ come through the crown of +our heads, and I expected all my teeth to tumble out. + +In the midst of my fright and suffering, a laugh was jolted out of +me by the absurd behaviour of one of our fellow-passengers. He was +what is called a bush carpenter: i.e., a wandering carpenter, who +travels from station to station, doing any little odd rough jobs +wanted. This man had been working for us some time before, and had +often amused me with his quaint ways. On this occasion he was on +his oppressively good behaviour, and sat quite silent and solemn on +the opposite ledge of the dray. But when for the second time the +water came swirling through our rude conveyance with a force which +threatened to upset it altogether, Dale fumbled in his pocket, as if +he were seeking for a life-belt, produced an enormous pair of green +goggle spectacles, which might have made part of Moses Primrose's +purchases at the fair, and adjusting them on his nose as steadily as +he could, said gravely, "This must be looked to!" He continued to +stare at the wash of water during the remainder of our perilous and +rough transit without vouchsafing any explanation of his meaning, +but after we had safely landed he replaced his spectacles, first in +their huge shagreen case, and next in his pocket, with an air which +seemed to say, "The danger is now over: thanks to my precautions." + +Timaru was reached very late, and the best accommodation at the inn +placed at our disposal. Still, in those distant days there was no +such thing as a private sitting room, and we had all to eat our +supper in the same rough-boarded little apartment. But in all my +varied wanderings in different parts of the world, when the +accidents of travel have thrown me for a time among the class whom +we foolishly speak of as the lower orders, I have never yet had to +complain of the slightest inconvenience or disagreeableness from my +fellow-travellers. On the contrary, I have always received the most +chivalrous politeness at their hands, and have noticed how ready +they were to forego their usual tastes and habits lest they should +cause me any annoyance. I wonder whether fine gentlemen in their +splendid clubs would be quite so willing to spoil the pleasure of +their evening if any accident were to throw an unwelcome lady +amongst them? At all events, they could not be _more_ +self-sacrificing than my friends in fustian jackets have always +proved themselves, and on this particular evening the landlord of +the inn was so amazed at the orders for tea and coffee instead of +the usual "nips" of spirits, that he was constrained to inquire the +reason. A stalwart drover who was sitting opposite to me at the +rude table, murmured from the depths of his great beard, in an +oracular whisper, "The smell of speerits might'nt be agreeble like +to the lady." In vain I protested that I did not mind it in the +least; tea and coffee was the order of the evening, and solemn +silence and good behaviour. No smoking, no songs, no conviviality +of any sort. I would fain have shown my appreciation of their +courtesy by talking to them; but alas, I was one vast ache all over! +Although the road had been a dead level, sixteen hours of jolting +and bumping had reduced me to a limp, black-and-blue creature, with +out a word or a smile. Of course I retired to what was literally a +pallet, and a very hard pallet too, as early as possible, but even +after I had vanished behind the thin wooden partition which formed +my bedroom, the greatest silence and decorum continued to reign +among my fellow-travellers. + + + +Chapter VII: "Buying a run."--continued. + + +Early the next morning we all breakfasted together, and then +separated with most polite adieux. We sallied forth to look for a +couple of riding horses. There were none to be hired, so we had to +buy two good-looking nags for 45 pounds a-piece. Now-a-days the +same horses would not fetch more than 10 pounds and I have been told +that in Australia you can buy a horse for a shilling, but ours in +New Zealand have never sunk lower than a couple of pounds, if they +had any legs at all. It seemed to the horse-dealer quite a +superfluous question when I timidly inquired if my horse had ever +carried a lady. "No: I can't just say as he has, mum, as you see +there aint no ladies in these parts for him to carry. But," he +added magnanimously, "I'll try him with a blanket fust, if you're at +all oneasy about him." We did not start until the next day, as we +had to hunt up side-saddles, and I had to sew a few yards of grey +linsey into a riding-skirt; but by the following day we were all +ready, and our "swags" packed and strapped to the saddles by nine +o'clock. F---'s horse looked a very nice one in every respect; mine +was evidently uneasy in his mind at the strange shape of his saddle, +and I was recommended to mount outside the little enclosure, on a +patch of open ground, where my steed would not be able to brush me +off. The moment I mounted, the "Hermit" as he was called, made for +a dry ditch and tried to lie down, but a sharp cut from a stock-whip +brought him out of it, and then he laid his ears well back and +started for a good gallop, to endeavour to get rid of his strange +rider. However, his head was turned in the right direction; there +were no obstacles in the way, and before he got tired of his pace we +had left Timaru a good many miles behind us. F--- looked +complacently at the "Hermit," and observed, "He'll carry you very +nicely, I think." I could only breathe a sincere hope that he +might. + +It was a beautiful day, warm but not oppressive, and delightfully +calm. Our road lay at first along the sea-shore. Ever since we had +left Christchurch the ground had been almost level, and the road +consisted merely of a track cleared from tussocks. On our left +extended the vast strip known as the Ninety-miles Beach, whilst far +on our right, between us and the west coast, the Southern Alps, rose +in all their might and beauty, sometimes lightly veiled by a summer +haze, at others cutting our Italian-blue sky sharp and clear with +their grand outlines. Our horses were a trifle too fat for good +condition, and we feared to hurry them the first day, so we made an +early halt at Mahiki, only a twenty miles stage; but the next day +they took us on to Waitaki Ferry, past a splendid bush, and so into +the heart of the hill country. + +Between the ranges, beautiful fertile valleys extended; when I say +fertile, I mean that the soil was excellent, and the land +well-grassed. But there was no cultivation. Not a sod had ever been +turned there since the creation of the world, and the whole country +wore the peculiar yellow tinge caught from the tall waving tussocks, +which is the prevailing feature of New Zealand scenery _au naturel_. +Every acre had been "taken up," but as yet the runs were rather +understocked. Our fourth day's ride was the longest,--fifty-five +miles in all, though we halted for a couple of hours at a miserable +accommodation house. Our bivouac that night was close to Lake +Wanaka, at the Molyneux Ferry-house, and there I was kept awake all +night by the attentions of a cat. I never saw such a ridiculous +animal. Prince, for that was his name, took the greatest fancy to +me, or rather to my woollen skirt I suppose, and found a linsey lap +much more comfortable than the corduroy knees on which he took his +usual evening nap. At all events he followed me into my room, which +only boasted of a mattress, stuffed with tussock-grass by the way, +on the floor. Here I should have slept very well after my long +journey, if Prince would have permitted it. In vain I put him out +of the window, not always very gently; he returned in five minutes, +bringing a palpitating, just-caught bird or mouse, which he softly +dropped on my face, and purred loudly with delight at his own +gallantry. Twenty times did I strike a match that night and try to +restore the victims to life; only one recovered sufficiently to be +released, and Prince brought it in again, quite dead, five minutes +later. I shut the little casement window, but the room became so +hot and stuffy, and suspicious fumes of stale beer and tobacco began +to assert their presence, so that I found myself obliged to open it +again. Sometimes the victim's bones were crunched close to my ear, +and I found more than one feather in my hair in the morning. Never +was any one so persecuted by a cat as I was by Prince that weary +night. + +The next day we got to a station known as "Johnson's." It was just +at the head of the lake, and as we arrived tolerably early in the +forenoon we embarked, after the usual station dinner of mutton, tea, +and damper, on Lake Wanaka. Alas for those treacherous blue waters! +We had only a little pair-oared boat, in which I took my place as +coxwain, and after pulling for a mile or two under a blazing sun, +over short chopping waves, with a head-wind, we all became so deadly +sea-sick that we had to turn back! As soon as we had rested and +recovered, a council of war was held as to our movements, and we +decided, in spite of our recent experiences, to turn our horses, who +had done quite enough for the present, out on the run, and so make +our way down the lake by boat. Already F--- was beginning to look +anxious, for he perceived that, even after the head of the lake had +been reached, the wool would cost an enormous sum to cart down to +either Oamaru or Timaru, from whence alone it could be shipped. + +The mile or two of the run which lay along the shore of the lake +showed us frightfully rough country. A dense jungle of tussocks and +thorny bushes choked up the feed, and made it impossible to drive +any animals through it, even supposing that good pasturage lay +beyond. Still we hoped that we might be looking at the worst +portion of our purchase, and deter mined to persevere in the attempt +to penetrate to the furthest end of our new property. Accordingly +we hired a safe old tub of a boat which, though too heavy to pull, +was warranted to sail steadily, and with a couple of men, some cold +mutton, bread, tea, and sugar, started valiantly on our cruise. But +the "blue, unclouded weather," in which we had hitherto basked, was +at an end for the present. We had already enjoyed a longer +succession of calm days than usually falls to the lot of the +travellers in that windy middle island, and it was now quite time +for the imprisoned "nor'-wester" to have his turn over the surface +of the domain. + +Accordingly the first day's sail was against a light, ominously warm +head-wind, and we only made any way at all by keeping up a +complicated system of tacking. The start had not been an early one, +so darkness found us but little advanced on our voyage, and we +passed the night in a rough shanty, on beds of fern-leaves, wrapped +in our red blankets. Tired as we were, none of us could sleep much. +The air was dry and parched; every now and then a sough of the +rising. hot gale swept through our crazy shelter without cooling us, +and warned us to prepare for what was coming. Our only chance of +getting on was to make an early start, for fortunately a true +"nor'-wester" is somewhat of a sluggard. The skies wore their +peculiar chrysoprase green tint, except towards the weather quarter, +where heavy banks of lurid cloud showed that the enemy was +collecting in force. Even the hour of dawn, usually so crisp and +cool, brought no sense of refreshment to our languid limbs, and we +embarked with the direst forebodings. A few miles further up the +lake we reached an out-station hut, built by our host Mr. Johnson +when he first "took up" his country and intended to push his +boundary as far as this. He soon drew in his lines however on +account of the rough nature of the ground. The hut was in a most +picturesque spot, and although deserted, remained still in good +repair. The little scrap of garden ground was a tangle of +gooseberry and currant bushes among which potatoes flourished at +their own sweet will. + +We had only time to beach the boat, that is to say F--- and the two +men did so, whilst I ran backwards and forwards with the blankets +and provisions, before the hurricane was upon us. Henceforth there +was no stirring out of doors until the gale had blown itself out. We +dragged in some driftwood, barricaded the door, and prepared to pass +the time as well as we could. Oh, the fleas in the hut! The ground +was literally alive with them, and their audacity and appetite was +unparalleled. Our boatmen sat tranquilly by the tiny window and +played cribbage incessantly with very dirty cards and a board made +out of a small bar of soap. As for me, I turned an empty box up on +its end, so as to get out of the way of the fleas, and perched +myself on it, finding ample occupation in defending my position from +the attacks of the active little wretches. Sometimes I felt as if I +must rush out into the lake and drown myself and my tormentors +together. It was very bad for everybody. The poor boatmen +doubtless wished to smoke, but were too polite to do anything of the +sort. F--- had nothing whatever to read, except a torn piece of an +old _Times_, at least two years old, which we had brought to wrap up +some of our provisions; whilst I was still more idle and wretched. +Two weary interminable days dragged, or perhaps I should say, blew, +themselves along in this miserable fashion, but at sundown on the +evening of the third day the wind dropped suddenly, and we did not +lose a moment in darting out of our prison and embarking once more. +For the first time since we started we could perceive the grandeur +of the surrounding country; but grand scenery is not necessary nor +indeed desirable in a sheep run. Splendid mountains ran down in +steep spurs to the very shore of the enormous lake. Behind them, +piled in snowy steeps, rose the distant Alps of the Antipodes; great +masses of native bush made dark purple shadows among the clefts of +the hills, whilst the lake rippled in and out of many a graceful bay +and quiet harbour. Not a fleck or film of cloud floated between us +and the serene and darkening sky; a profound, delightful calm +brooded over land and water. Although there was no moon, the stars +served us as lights and compass until two o'clock in the morning, by +which time we had reached the head of the lake (which is thirty-five +miles in length), where we landed, extemporized a tent out of the +boat sail, and turned in for a refreshing flea-less sleep. + +The next day was beautifully still, with a light air from the +opposite point, just sufficient to cool the parched atmosphere; and +we made our way along the head of the lake to a place were a couple +of sawyers were at work. One of them had brought his wife with him, +and her welcome to me was the most touching thing in the world. She +took me entirely under her care, and would hardly let me out of her +sight. I must say it was very nice to be waited on so faithfully, +and I gave myself up to the unaccustomed luxury. All she required +of me in exchange for her incessant toil on my behalf was "news." It +did not matter of what kind, every scrap of intelligence was welcome +to her, and she refused to tell me to what date her "latest advices" +extended. During the three days of our stay in that clearing among +the great pines of the Wanaka Bush, I gave my hostess a complete +abridgment of the history of England--political, social, and moral, +beginning from my earliest recollections. Then we ran over +contemporary foreign affairs, dwelt minutely on every scrap of +colonial news, and finally wound up with a full, true, and +particular account of myself and all my relations and friends. When +I paused for breath she would cease her washing and cooking on my +behalf, and say entreatingly, "Go on now, do!" until I felt quite +desperate. + +All this time whilst I was being "interviewed" nearly to death, F--- +employed himself in making excursions to different parts of the run. +One of the sawyers lent him a miserable half-starved little pony; +and he penetrated to another sawyer's hut, seven miles distant up +the Matukituki river. But no matter whether he turned his steps to +north or south, east or west, he met with the same disheartening +report. There was the ground indeed, but it was perfectly useless. +Not only was there was _no_ pasturage, but if there had been, the +nature of the country would have rendered it valueless, on account +of the way it was overgrown. It would be tedious to explain more +minutely why this was the case. Sufficient must it be to say that +whilst F--- was only too anxious to keep his eyes shut as to the +ground he had alighted on after his leap in the dark, and the +sawyers were equally anxious to induce settlers to come there, and +so bring a market for their labour close to their hand nothing could +make our purchase appear anything except a dead loss. As for the +plans, they were purely imaginary. The blue lake was about the only +part true to nature; and even that should have had a foot-note to +state that it was generally lashed into high, unnavigable waves, by +a chronic nor'-wester. + +No: there was nothing for it but to go home again to the little run +which had seemed such a mere paddock in our eyes, whilst we indulged +in castle-building over 100,000 acres of country. It was of no use +lingering amid such disappointment and discomfort; besides which my +listener, the sawyer's wife, had turned her husband and herself out +of their hut, and were sleeping under a red blanket tent. Poor +woman, she was most anxious to get away; and the lovely sylvan +scene, with the tall trees standing like sentinels over their +prostrate brethren, the wealth of beauteous greenery, springing +through fronds of fern and ground creepers, the bright-winged flight +of paroquets and other bush birds, even the vast expanse of the lake +which stretched almost from their threshold for so many miles, all +would have been gladly exchanged for a dusty high street in any +country town-ship. Her last words were, "Can't you send me a paper +or hany thing printed, mam?" I faithfully promised to do my best, +and carried out my share of the bargain by despatching to her a +large packet of miscellaneous periodicals and newspapers; but +whether she ever received them is more than I can say. + +We were afraid of lingering too long, lest another nor'-wester +should become due; and we therefore started as soon as F--- had +decided that it was of no use exploring our wretched purchase any +further. We had a stiff breeze from the north-west all the way down +the lake; but as it was right a-stern it helped us along to such +good purpose, that one day's sailing before it brought us back to +Mr. Johnson's homestead and comparative civilization. The little +parlour and the tiny bed-room beyond, into which I could only get +access by climbing through a window (for the architect had forgotten +to put a door), appeared like apartments in a spacious palace, so +great was the contrast between their snug comfort and the desolate +misery of our hut life. Of course nothing else was talked of except +our disappointment at our new run; and although Mr. Johnson had +indulged in forebodings, which were only too literally fulfilled, he +had the good taste never to remind us of his prophecies. + "Of all the forms of human woe, + Defend me from that dread, 'I told you so.'" + +After a day's halt and rest we mounted our much refreshed horses, +and set our faces straight across country for Dunedin. This is very +easy to write, but it was not quite so easy to do. We could only +ride for the first fifty-two miles, which we accomplished in two +days. These stages brought us to the foot of the Dunstan Range, and +near the gold-diggings of that name. I would fain have turned aside +to see them, but we had not time. However, we felt the auriferous +influence of the locality; for a perfect stranger came up to us, +whilst we were baiting at another place, called the Kaiwarara +diggings, and offered to buy our horses from us for 30 pounds each, +and also to purchase our saddles and bridles at a fair price. This +was exactly what we wanted, as we had intended to sell them at +Dunedin; and I was no ways disinclined to part with the Hermit; who +retained the sulky, misanthropical temper which had earned him his +name. He was now pronounced "fit to carry a lady," and purchased to +be sold again at the diggings. Whether there were any ladies there +or not I cannot tell. Of course, before parting with our nags we +ascertained that the ubiquitous "Cobb's coach" started from our +resting place for Dunedin next day, and we made the rest of our +journey in one of that well-known line. Its leathern springs, +whilst not so liable to break by sudden jolts, impart a swinging +rocking motion to the body of the vehicle, which is most +disagreeable; but rough and rude as they are, they deserve to be +looked upon with respect as the pioneers of civilization. All over +America, Australia, and now New Zealand, the moment half-a-dozen +passengers are forthcoming, that moment the enterprising firm starts +a coach, and the vehicle runs until it is ousted by a railway. All +previous tracks which I had journeyed over seemed smooth turnpike +roads, compared to that terrible tussocky track which led to +Dunedin. + +But that bright little town was reached at last, the hotel welcomed +us, tired and bruised travellers that we were, and next evening we +started in the _Geelong_ for Port Lyttleton. This little coasting +steamer seemed to touch at every hamlet along the coast, and after +each pause I had to begin afresh my agonies of sea-sickness. There +was no such thing as getting one's sea-legs; for we were seldom more +than a few hours outside, and had no chance of getting used to the +horrible motion. Timaru was reached next day, but we had suffered +so frightfully during the night from a chopping sea and an open. +roadstead, that we went on shore, and entrusted ourselves once more +to the old coach. It seemed better to endure the miseries we knew +of, than to make experiments in wretchedness. So we went through +the old jolting and jumbling until we were dropped at an +accommodation house, fifteen miles from Christchurch, where we slept +that night, and at daylight despatched a messenger to the next +station for our own horses. He had only thirty-five miles to ride, +and about mid-day we started to meet him on hired horses, which we +were very glad to exchange for better nags a stage further on. + +And so we rode quietly home in the gloaming, winding up the lovely, +tranquil valley, at whose head stood our own snug little homestead. +At first we were so glad to be safely at hone again that we scarcely +gave a thought to our fruitless enterprise; but as our bruised +bodies became rested and restored, our hearts began to ache when we +thought of the money we had so rashly flung away in BUYING A RUN. + + + +Chapter VIII: Looking for a congregation. + + +It is to be hoped and expected that such a good understanding has +been established between my readers and myself by this time, that +they will not find the general title of these papers unsuitable to +the heading of this particular chapter. Indeed, I may truly say, +that, looking back upon the many happy memories of my three years +life in that lovely and beloved Middle Island, no pleasures stand +out more vividly than my evening rides up winding gullies or across +low hill-ranges in search of a shepherd's hut, or a _cockatoo's_ +nest. A peculiar brightness seems to rest on those sun-lit peaks of +memory's landscape; and it is but fitting that it should be so, for +other excursions or expeditions used to be undertaken merely for +business or pleasure, but these delicious wanderings were in search +of scattered dwellings whose lonely inhabitants--far removed from +Church privileges for many a long year past--might be bidden, nay, +entreated, to come to us on Sunday afternoons, and attend the +Service we held at home weekly. + +And here I feel constrained to say a word to those whose eyes may +haply rest on my pages, and who may find themselves in the coming +years in perhaps the same position as I did a short time ago. A new +comer to a new country is sure to be discouraged if he or she +(particularly _she_, I fancy) should attempt to revive or introduce +any custom which has been neglected or overlooked. This is +especially the case with religious observances. At every turn one is +met by disheartening warnings. "Oh, the people here are very +different to those in the old country; they would look upon it as +impertinence if you suggested they should come to church." "You +will find a few may come just at first, and then when the novelty +wears off and they have seen all the pretty things in your drawing +room, not a soul will ever come near the place." + +"If even the men don't say something very free and easy to you when +you invite them to your house on Sunday afternoons, you may depend +upon it that after two or three weeks you will not know how to keep +them in order." + +Such, and many more, were the discouraging remarks made when I +consulted my neighbours about my plan for collecting the shepherds +from the surrounding runs, and holding a Church of England Service +every Sunday afternoon at our own little homestead. To my mind, the +distances seemed the greatest obstacle, as many of the men I wanted +to reach lived twenty-five or even thirty miles away, with very +rough country between. I had no fear of impertinence, for it is +unknown to me, and seldom comes, I fancy, unprovoked; whilst with +regard to the novelty wearing off and the men ceasing to attend, +that must be left in God's hands. We could only endeavour to plant +the good seed, and trust to Him to give the increase. It was a +great comfort to me in those early days that F---, who had been many +years in the colony, never joined in the disheartening prophecies I +have alluded to. Although as naturally averse to reading aloud +before strangers as a man who had lived a solitary life would be +sure to be, he promised at once, with a good grace, to read the +Evening Service and a sermon afterwards, and thus smoothed one +difficulty over directly. His advice to me was precisely what I +would fain repeat: "Try, by all means: if you fail you will at least +feel you have made the attempt." May all who try succeed, as we +did! I believe firmly they will, for it is an undertaking on which +God's blessing is sure to rest, and there are no such fertilizing +dews as those which fall from heaven. The mists arising from earth +are only miasmic vapours after all! + +But I fear to linger too long on the end, instead of telling you +about the means. + +It was May when we were fairly settled in our new home at the head +of a hill-encircled valley. With us that month answers to your +November, but fogs are unknown in that breezy Middle Island, and my +first winter in Canterbury was a beautiful season, heralded in by an +exquisite autumn. How crisp the mornings and evenings were, with +ever so light a film of hoar frost, making a splendid sparkle on +every blade of waving tussock-grass! Then in the middle of the day +the delicious warmth of the sun tempted one to linger all day in the +open air, and I never wearied of gazing at the strange purple +shadows cast by a passing cloud; or up, beyond the floating +vapourous wreath, to the heaven of brilliant blue which smiled upon +us. And yet, when I come to think of it, I don't know that I had +much time to spare for glancing at either hills or skies, for we +were just settling ourselves in a new place, and no one knows what +_that_ means unless they have tried it, fifty miles away from the +nearest shop. The yeast alone was a perpetual anxiety to me,--it +would not keep beyond a certain time, and had a tendency to explode +its confining bottles in the middle of the night, so it became +necessary to make it in smaller quantities every ten days or so. If +by any chance I forgot to remind my scatter-brained damsels to +replenish the yeast bottles, they used up the last drop, and then +would come smilingly to me with the remark, "There aint not a drop +o' yeast, about, anywhere, mum." This entailed flap-jacks, or +scones, or soda bread, or some indigestible compound for at least +three days, as it was of no use attempting to make proper bread +until the yeast had worked. Then the well needed to be deepened, a +kitchen garden had to be made, shelter to be provided for the fowls +and pigs; a shed to be put up for coals; a thousand things which +entailed thought and trouble, had to be done. + +It is true these rough jobs were not exactly in my line, but indoors +I was just as busy trying to make big things fit into little spaces +and _vice versa_. We could not afford to take things coolly and do +a little every day, for at that time of year an hour's change in the +wind might have brought a heavy fall of snow, or a sharp frost, or +a; deluge of rain down upon the uncovered and defenceless heads of +our live stock. The poor dear sheep, the source of our income, were +after all the least well-cared for creatures on the Station. A well +grassed and watered run, with sunny vallies for winter feeding, and +green hills for summer pasturage, had been provided by antipodean +Nature for them, and to these advantages we only added some twenty +or twenty-five miles of wire fencing, and then they were left to +themselves, with a couple of shepherds to look after fifteen +thousand sheep all the year round. + +But yet, busy as we were, we found time to look up a congregation. +The very first Sunday afternoon, whilst we were still in the midst +of a chaos of chips and big boxes and straw and empty china-barrels, +our own shepherds came over, by invitation, and the only very near +neighbours we had--a Scotch head-shepherd and his charming young +wife,--and we held a Service in the half-furnished drawing room. +After it was ended we had a long talk with the men, and they +confessed that they had enjoyed it very much, and would like to come +regularly. When questioned as to the feasibility of inducing others +to join, they said that it might be suggested to more than one +distant, lonely hill-shepherd, but his uncontrollable shyness would +probably prevent his attendance. + +"Jim Salter, and Joe Bennett, and a lot more on 'em, would be glad +enow to come, if so be they could feel as how they was truly +wellcombe," said our shepherd, Pepper, who prided himself on the +elegance and correctness of his phraseology. He added, after a +reflective pause, turning bashfully away, "If so be as the lady +would just look round and give 'em a call, they'd be to be persuaded +belike." + +So the scheme was Pepper's after all, you see. But this "looking +round," to which he alluded so airily, meant scrambling rides, +varying from ten to twenty-eight miles in length, over break-neck +country, and this on the slender chance of finding the men in-doors. +Now a New Zealand shepherd almost lives out on the hills, so the +prospect of finding any of our congregation at home was slight +indeed. However, as I said before, F--- stood by me, and although +we neither of us could well spare the time, we agreed to devote two +afternoons every week, so long as the fine open autumn weather, +lasted, to making excursions in search of back-country huts. There +are no roads or finger posts or guides of any sort in those distant +places. When we inquired what was the name of "Mills" shepherd (the +masters are always plain Smith or Jones, and the shepherds Mr.---, +in the colonies) the answer was generally very vague. "Wiry Bill, +we mostly calls 'im; but I think I've heerd say his rightful name +was Mr. Pellet, mum. He's a little chap, as strong as the 'ouse," +explained Pepper, who was an incorrigible cockney, "and he lives +over there," pointing with his thumb to a mountain range behind us. +"He's in one of them blind gullies. You go along the gorge of the +river till you come to a saddle all over fern, and you drop down +that, and follow the best o' three or four tracts till you come to a +swamp." + +Here Pepper paused, in consideration of my face of horror; for if +there was one thing I dreaded more than another in those early days, +it was a swamp. Steep hill sides, wide creeks, honey-combed flats, +all came in, the day's ride,--but a swamp! Ugh! the horrible +treacherous thing, so green and innocent looking, with here and +there a quicksand or a peaty morass, in which, without a moment's +warning, your horse sank up to his withers! It was dreadful, and +when we came to such a place Helen used to stop dead short, prick +her pretty ears well forward, and, trembling with fear and +excitement, put her nose close to the ground, smelling every inch, +before she would place her fore foot down on it, jumping off it like +a goat if it proved insecure. Generally she crossed a swamp, by a +series of bounds in and out of flax bushes; and hopeless indeed +would a morass be without those green cities of refuge! + +Horrible as a large swamp is however to a timid horsewoman, it is +dear to the heart of a cockatoo. He gladly buys a freehold of fifty +acres in the midst of one, burns it, makes a sod fence, sown with +gorse seed a-top, all round his section, drains it in a rough and +ready fashion, and then the splendid fertile soil which has been +waiting for so many thousand years, "brings forth fruit abundantly." +Such enormous fields of wheat and oats and barley as you come upon +sometimes,--with, alas, never a market near enough to enable the +plenteous crop to return sevenfold into its master's bosom! + +I shall not inflict upon you a description of all our rides in +search of members for our congregation. Two, in widely differing +directions, will serve as specimens of such excursions. In +consideration of my new-chumishness, F--- selected a comparatively +easy track for our first ride. And yet, "bad was the best," might +surely be said of that breakneck path. What would an English horse, +or an English lady say, to riding for miles over a slippery winding +ledge on a rocky hill side, where a wall of solid mountain rose up +perpendicularly on the right hand, and on the left a very +respectable sized river hurried over its boulders far beneath the +aerial path; yet this was comparatively a safe track, and presented +but one serious obstacle, over which I was ruthlessly taken. It is +perhaps needless to say we were riding in single file, and equally +unnecessary to state that I was the last; for certainly we should +never have made much progress otherwise. Helen, my bay mare, would +follow her stable companion, on which F--- was mounted, so that was +the way we got on at all. + +A sudden sharp turn showed me what appeared to be a low stone wall +running own the spur of the mountain, right across our track, and I +had already begun to disquiet myself about the possibility of +turning back on such a narrow ledge, when I saw F---'s powerful +black horse, with his ears well forward, and his reins, lying loose +on his neck, make a sort of rush at the obstacle, climb up it as a +cat would, stand for an instant, exactly like a performing goat, +with all four legs drawn closely together under him, and then with a +spring disappear on the other side. "This wall", I thought, "must +be but loosely built, for _Leo_ has displaced some of the stones +from its coping." Helen, pretty dear, hurried after her friend and +leader; and before I had time to realize what she was going to do, +she was balancing herself on the crumbling summit of this stone wall +(which was only the freak of a landslip), and as it proved +impossible to remain there, perched like a bird on a very insecure +branch, nothing remained except to gather herself well together and +jump off. But what a jump! the ground fell sheer away at the foot +of the wall, and left a chasm many feet wide, which the horse could +not see until it had climbed to the top of the wall, and as turning +back was out of the question, the only alternative was to give a +vigorous bound on to the narrow ledge beyond. Terrified as I felt, +I luckily refrained from jerking Helen's head, or attempting to +guide her in any way. The only chance of safety over New Zealand +tracks, or New Zealand creeks, is to leave your horse _entirely_ to +itself. I have seen men who were reckoned good riders in England, +get the most ignominious tumbles from a disregard of this advice. +An up-country horse knows perfectly well the only sound spots in a +swamp; or the only sound part of a creek's banks. If his rider +persists in taking him over the latter, where he himself thinks it +narrowest and safest, he is pretty sure to find the earth rotten and +crumbling, and to pay for his obstinacy by a wetting; whilst in the +case of a swamp the consequences are even more serious, and the +horse often gets badly strained in floundering out of a quagmire. + +But it was not all danger and difficulty, and the many varieties of +scene in the course of a long ride constituted some of its chief +charms. At first, perhaps, after we had left our own fair valley +behind, the track would wind through the gorge of a river, with +lofty mountains rising sheer up from the water side. All here was +sad and grey, and very solemn in its eternal silence, only made more +intense by the ceaseless monotonous roar of the ever-rushing water. +Then we would emerge on acres and acres of softly rolling downs, +higher than the hillocks we call by that name at home, but still +marvellously beautiful in their swelling curves all folding so +softly into each other, and dotted with mobs of sheep, making +pastoral music to a flock-owner's ear. Over this sort of ground we +could canter gaily along, with "Hector," F---'s pet colley, keeping +close to the heels of his master's horse,--for it is the worst of +bad manners in a colley to look at a neighbour's sheep. The +etiquette in passing through a strange run is for the dog to go on +the off side of his master's horse, so that the sheep shall not even +see him; and this piece of courtly politeness Hector always +practised of his own accord. + +A wire fence always proved a very tiresome obstacle, for horses have +a great dread of them, and will not be induced to jump them on any +account. If we could find out where the gate was, well and good; +but as it might be half a dozen miles off, on one side or the other, +we seldom lost time or patience in seeking it. When there was no +help for it, and such a fence had to be crossed, the proceedings +were, always the same. F---dismounted, and unfastened one of his +stirrup leathers; with this he strapped the wires as firmly as +possible together, but if the fence had been lately fresh-strained, +it was sometimes a difficult task. Still he generally made one spot +lower than the rest, and over this he proceeded to adjust his coat +very carefully; he then vaulted lightly over himself, and calling +upon me to aid by sundry flicks on Leo's flank, the horse would be +induced to jump over it. This was always a work of time and +trouble, for Leo hated doing it, and would rather have leaped the +widest winter creek, than jumped the lowest coat-covered wire fence. +Helen had to jump with me on her back, and without any friendly whip +to urge her, but except once, when she caught her hind leg in the +sleeve of the coat which was hanging over the fence, and tore it +completely out, she got over very well. Upon that occasion F--- had +to carry his sleeve in his pocket until we reached the neat little +out-station hut, where Jim Salter lived, and where we were pretty +sure to find a housewife, for shepherds are as handy as sailors with +a needle and thread. + +I shall always believe that some bird of the air had "carried the +matter" to Salter, because not only was he at home, and in his +Sunday clothes, but he had made a cake the evening before, and that +was a very suspicious circumstance. However we pretended not to +imagine that we were expected, and Jim pretended with equal success +to be much surprised at our visit, so both sides were satisfied. +Nothing could be neater than the inside of the little hut; its cob +walls papered with, old Illustrated London News,--not only pictures +but letter-press,--its tiny window as clean as possible, a new +sheep-skin rug laid down before the open fireplace, where a bright +wood fire was sputtering and cracking cheerily, and the inevitable +kettle suspended from a hook half-way up the low chimney. Outside, +the dog-kennels had been newly thatched with tohi grass, the garden +weeded and freshly dug, the chopping-block and camp-oven as clean as +scrubbing could make them. It was too late in the year for fruit, +but Salter's currant, raspberry, and gooseberry bushes gave us a +good idea of how well he must have fared in the summer. The fowls +were just devouring the last of the green-pea shoots, and the +potatoes had been blackened by our first frosts. + +It was all very nice and trim and comfortable, except the +loneliness; that must have been simply awful. It is difficult to +realise how completely cut off from the society of his kind a New +Zealand up-country shepherd is, especially at an out-station like +this. Once in every three months he goes down to the homestead, +borrows the pack horse, and leads it up to his hut, with a quarter's +rations of flour, tea, sugar and salt; of course he provides himself +with mutton and firewood, and his simple wants are thus supplied. +After shearing, about January, his wages are paid, varying from 75 +pounds to 100 pounds a year, according to the locality, and then he +gets a week's leave to go down to the nearest town. If he be a +prudent steady man, as our friend Salter was, he puts his money in +the bank, or lends it out on a freehold mortgage at ten per cent., +only deducting a few pounds from his capital for a suit of clothes, +a couple of pair of Cookham boots for hill walking, and above all, +some new books. + +Without any exception, the shepherds I came across in New Zealand +were all passionately fond of reading; and they were also +well-informed men, who often expressed themselves in excellent, +through superfine, language. Their libraries chiefly consisted of +yellow-covered novels, and out of my visits in search of a +congregation grew a scheme for a book-club to supply something +better in the way of literature, which was afterwards most +successfully carried out. But of this I need not speak here, for we +are still seated inside Salter's hut,--so small in its dimensions +that it could hardly have held another guest. Womanlike, my eyes +were everywhere, and I presently spied out an empty bottle, labelled +"Worcestershire Sauce." + +"Dear me, Salter," I cried, "I had no idea you were so grand as to +have sauces up here: why we hardly ever use them." "Well, mum," +replied Salter, bashfully, and stroking his long black beard to gain +time to select the grandest words he could think of, "it is hardly +to be regarded in the light of happetite, that there bottle, it is +more in the nature of remedies." Then, seeing that I still looked +mystified, he added, "You see, mum, although we gets our 'elth +uncommon well in these salubrious mountings, still a drop of physic +is often handy-like, and in a general way I always purchase myself a +box of Holloway's Pills (of which you do get such a lot for your +money), and also a bottle of pain-killer; but last shearing they was +out o' pain-killer, they said, so they put me up a bottle o' Cain +pepper, and likewise that 'ere condiment, which was werry +efficacious, 'specially towards the end o' the bottle!" "And do you +really mean to say you drank it, Salter?" I inquired with horror. + +"Certainly I do, mum, whenever I felt out o' sorts. It always took +my mind off the loneliness, and cheered me up wonderful, especial if +I hadded a little red pepper to it," said Salter, getting up from +his log of wood and making me a low bow. All this time F--- and I +were seated amicably side by side on poor Salter's red +blanket-covered "bunk," or wooden bedstead, made of empty +flour-sacks nailed between rough poles, and other sacks filled with +tussock grass for a mattress and pillow. + +The word loneliness gave me a good opening to broach the subject of +our Sunday gatherings, and my suspicions of Jim's having been told +of our visit were confirmed by the alacrity with which he said, "I +have much pleasure in accepting your kind invitation, mum, if so be +as I am not intruding." + +"No, indeed Salter," F--- said; "you'd be very welcome, and you +could always turn Judy into the paddock whilst we were having +service." + +Now if there was one thing dearer to Salter's heart than another, it +was his little roan mare Judy: her excellent condition, and jaunty +little hog-mane and tail, testified to her master's loving care. So +it was all happily settled, and after paying a most unfashionably +long visit to the lonely man, we rode away with many a farewell nod +and smile. I may say here that Salter was one of the most regular +of our congregation for more than two years, besides being a member +of the book club. In time, its more sensible volumes utterly +displaced the yellow paper rubbish in his but library, and I never +can forget the poor man's emotion when he came to bid me good-bye. + +At my request he made the rough little pen and ink sketches which +are here given, and as he held my offered hand (not knowing quite +what else to do with it) when I took leave of him after our last +home-service, when my face was set towards England, he could not say +a word. The great burly creature's heart must have been nearly as +big as his body, and he seemed hardly to know that large tears were +rolling down his sunburnt face and losing themselves in his bushy +beard. I tried to be cheerful myself, but he kept repeating, "It is +only natural you should be glad to go, yet it is very rough upon +us." In vain I assured him I was not at all glad to go,--very, very +sorry, in fact: all he would say was, "To England, home and beauty, +in course any one would be pleased to return." I can't tell you +what he meant, and he had no voice to waste on explanations; I only +give poor dear Jim's valedictory sentences as they fell from his +white and trembling lips. + +Very different was Ned Palmer, the most diminutive and wiry of hill +shepherds, with a tongue which seemed never tired, and a good +humoured smile for every one. Ned used to try my gravity sorely by +stepping up to me half a dozen times during the service, to find his +place for him in his Prayer-book, and always saying aloud, "Thank +you kindly, m'm." + + + +Chapter IX: Another shepherd's hut. + + +To get to Ned's hut--which was not nearly so trim or comfortable as +Salter's, and stood out in the midst of a vast plain covered with +waving yellow tussocks,--we had to cross a low range of hills, and +pick our way through nearly a mile of swampy ground on the other +side. The sure-footed horses zig-zagged their way up the steep +hill-side with astonishing ease, availing themselves here and there +of a sheep track, for sheep are the best engineers in the world, and +always hit off the safest and easiest line of country. I did not +feel nervous going _up_ the hill, although we must have appeared, +had there been any one to look at us, more like flies on a wall than +a couple of people on horse back, but when we came to the ridge and +looked down on the descent beneath us, my heart fairly gave way. + +Not a blade of grass, or a leaf of a shrub, was to be seen on all +the steep slope, or rather precipice, for there was very little +slope about it; nothing but grey loose shingle, which the first +hoof-fall of the leading horse invariably sent slipping and sliding, +in a perfect avalanche of rubble, down into the soft bright green +morass beneath. Of all the bad "tracks" I encountered in my +primitive rides, I really believe I suffered more real terror and +anguish on that particular hill-side than on any other. My +companion's conduct too, used to be heartless in the extreme. He +let the reins fall loosely on his horse's neck, merely holding their +extreme ends, settled himself comfortably in his saddle, leaning +well back, and turning round laughingly to me, observed, "Aren't you +coming?" "Oh, not there," I cried in true melo-dramatic tones of +horror; but it was all in vain, F--- merely remarked "You have +nothing to do but fancy you are sitting in an arm-chair at home, you +are quite as safe." "What nonsense," I gasped. "I only wish I +_was_ at home: never, never will I come out riding again." All this +time the leading horse was slowly and carefully edging himself down +hill a few steps to the right, then a few to the left, just as he +thought best, displacing tons of loose stone and even small rocks at +every movement. Helen, nothing daunted, was eager to follow, and +although she quivered with excitement at the noise, echoed back from +the opposite hills, lost no time in preparing to descend. Her first +movement sent such showers of rubble down upon F--- and his horse, +that I really thought the latter would have been knocked off his +legs. "If you _could_ keep a little more to the right, so as to +send the stones clear of me, I should be very grateful," shouted +F---, who was actually near the bottom of the hill already, so sharp +had been the angles of his horse's descent. I felt afraid of +attempting to guide Helen, lest the least check should send us both +head over heels into the quagmire below, and yet it seemed dreadful +to cause the death of one's husband by rolling down cart loads of +stones upon him. It could not have been more than five minutes +before Helen and I stood side by side with Leo, on the only bit of +firm ground at the edge of the morass. I believe I was as white as +my pocket handkerchief; and if fright could turn a person's hair +grey, I had been sufficiently alarmed to make myself eligible for +any quantity of walnut pomade. + +Fortunately the summer had proved rather a dry one, and the swamp +was not so wet as it would have been after a heavy rain-fall. The +horses stepped carefully from flax bushes to "nigger heads" (as the +very old blackened grass stumps are called), resting hardly a moment +anywhere, and avoiding all the most seductive looking spots. I +thought my companion must have gone suddenly mad, when, a hawk +rising up almost from beneath our horses' feet, he flung himself off +his saddle and cried out, "A late hawk's nest, I declare!" And so +it proved, for a little searching in a sheltered and tolerably dry +spot revealed a couple of eggs, precisely like hens' eggs, until +broken, when their delicate pale green inner membrane betrayed their +dangerous origin. It is chiefly owing to this practice of laying in +swamps that the various kinds of hawk increase and thrive as they +do, for if it were possible to get at them, the shepherds would soon +exterminate the sworn foe of their chickens and pigeons. They are +also the great drawback to the introduction of pheasants and +partridges, for the young birds have not a chance in the open +against even a sparrow-hawk. + +Although it is a digression, I must tell you here how, one beautiful +early winter's day, I was standing in the verandah at my own home, +when one of our pigeons, chased by a hawk, flew right into my face +and its pursuer was so close and so heated by the chase, that it +flung itself also with great violence against my head, with a scream +of rage and triumph, hurting me a good deal as it dug its cruel, +armed heel into my cheek. The pigeon had fluttered, stunned and +exhausted to the ground, and, quick as lightning I stooped to pick +it up; so great had been the impetus of the hawk's final charge that +he had never perceived his victim had escaped him. The cunning of +these birds must be seen to be believed. I have often watched a +wary old hawk perched most impudently on the stock-yard rails, +waiting until a rash chicken or duckling should, in spite of its +mother's warning clucks of terror, insist on coming out from under +her sheltering wings. If I took an umbrella, or a croquet mallet, +or a walking stick, and went out, the bird would remain quite +unmoved, even if I held my weapon pointed gun-wise towards him. But +let anyone take a real gun and hold it ever so well hidden behind +their back, and emerge ever so cautiously from the shelter of the +shrubs, my fine gentleman was off directly, mounting out of sight +with a few strokes of his powerful wings, and uttering a shriek of +derision as he departed. Nothing is so rare as a successful shot at +a hawk. + +We consoled ourselves however on this occasion, by reflecting. that +we had annihilated two young hawks before they had commenced their +lives of rapine and robbery, and rode on our way rejoicing, to find +Ned Palmer sitting outside his but door on a log of drift wood, +making, candles. In the more primitive days of the settlement, the +early settlers must have been as badly off for light, during the +long dark winter evenings, as are even now the poorer inhabitants of +Greenland or of Iceland, for their sole substitute for candles +consisted of a pannikin half filled with melted tallow, in which a +piece of cork and an apology for a wick floated. But by my time all +this had long been past and over, and even a back-country shepherd +had a nice tin mould in which he could make a dozen candles of the +purest tallow at a time. + +Ned was just running a slender piece of wood through the loops of +his twisted cotton wicks, so as to keep them above the rim of the +mould, and the strong odour of melted mutton fat was tainting the +lovely fresh air. But New Zealand run-holders have often to put up +with queer smells as well as sights and sounds, therefore we only +complimented Ned on being provident enough to make a good stock of +candles before-hand, for home consumption, during the coming dark +days. After we had dismounted and hobbled our horses with the +stirrup leathers, so that they could move about and nibble the sweet +blue grass growing under each sheltering tussock, I sat down on a +large stone near, and began to tell Ned how often I had watched the +negroes in Jamaica making candles after a similar fashion, only they +use the wax from the wild bee nests instead of tallow, which was a +rare and scarce thing in that part of the world. I described to him +the thick orange-coloured wax candles which used to be the delight +of my childhood, giving out a peculiar perfuming odour after they +had been burning for an hour or two,--an odour made up of honey and +the scent of heavy tropic flowers. + +Ned listened to my little story with much politeness, and then, +feeling it incumbent on him to contribute to the conversation, +remarked, "I never makes candles ma'am without I thinks of +frost-bites." + +"How is that, Palmer?" I asked, laughingly. "What in the world have +they to do with each other?" + +"Well, ma'am, you see it was just in this way. It was afore I come +here, which is quite a lively, sociable place compared to Dodson's +back country out-station, at the foot o' those there ranges beyond. +I give you my word, ma'am, it used always to make me feel as if I +was dead, and living in a lonely eternity. Them clear, bright-blue +_glassers_ (glaciers, he meant, I presume) was awful lonesome, and +as for a human being they never come a-nigh the place. Well as I +was saying, ma'am, one day I finds I had run out o' candles, and as +the long dark evenings (for it was the height o' winter) was bad +enough, even with a dip burning, to show me old Spot's face for +company, I set to work, hot haste, to make some more. It was +bitter, biting cold, you bet, ma'am; and I was hard at work--just +after I had had my bit o' breakfast, before I went out for to look +round my boundary--melting and making my dips, so that they might be +fine and hard for night. I ought praps to mention that Spot used to +get so close to the fire-place, that as often as not, I dropped a +mossel of the hot grease on the dog; and if it touched a thin place +in his coat, he would jump up howling. Well, ma'am, I was pouring a +pannikin full o' biling tallow into the mould, when poor old Spot he +gives a sudden howl and yell, and runs to the door. I paid no +attention to him at the time, for I was so busy; but he went on +leaping up and howling as if he had gone mad. As soon as I could +put down the pannikin out o' my hand, I went to the door meaning to +open it and,--sorry am I to say it,--kick the poor beast out for +making such a row about a drop o' hot grease. But the dog turned +his face round on me, and gave me a look as much as to say, "Make +haste, do; there's a good chap: I ought to be outside there." And +what with the sense shinin' in his eyes, and a curious kind o' sound +outside, I takes down the bar (for the door wouldn't stay shut +otherwise), and looks out. Never until my dyin' day, and not even +then, I expect, shall I forget what the dog and I saw lying on the +ground, which was all white and hard with frost, the sun not having +got over the East range yet. The dog he had more sense and a deal +more pluck than I had, for he knows there aint a moment to be lost; +and he runs up to the flat, tumbled-down heap o' clothes, gets on +its back (for no face could I see), so as to be doing something, and +not losing time, and begins licking. Not very far off there was a +lean horse standing, but he didn't seem to like to come through the +slip-rail o' the paddock fence. + +"In coorse I couldn't stand gaping there all day, so I went and +stooped down to the man, who was lying flat on his face, with his +arms straight out. He wasn't sensibleless (Palmer's favourite word +for senseless), for he opened his eyes, and said, "For God's sake, +mate, take me in." "So I will, mate," I makes reply "and welcome +you are. Can you get on your legs, think you?" With that he groans +awful, and says, "My legs is friz." Well, I looks at his legs, and +sees he was dressed in what had been good moleskins, and high jack +riding-boots, coming up to his knees; but sure enough they was as +hard as a board, and actially, if you'll believe me, ma'am, there +was a rim o' solid hice round the tops of his boots. As for +standing, he couldn't do it: his legs was no more use to him than +they was to me, and he was a tall, high fellow besides. Cold as it +was, I felt hot enough by the time I had lugged that poor man inside +my place, and got him up on my bunk. He could speak, though his +voice was weak as weak could be, and he helped me as well as he +could by catching hold with his arms, but his legs was stone dead. +I had to get the tommy (_anglice_-tomahawk), and _chop_ his boots +off, and that's the gospel truth, ma'am. I broke my knife, first +try, and the axe was too big. He told me, poor fellow, that two +days before, as he was returning from prospecting up towards the +back ranges, his horse got away, and he _couldn't_ catch him. No: +he tried with all his might and main, for in his swag, which was +strapped to the D's of his saddle, was not only his blanket, but his +baccy, and tea, and damper, and a glass o' grog. The curious thing, +too, was that the horse didn't bolt right away, as they generally +do: he jest walked a-head, knowing his master was bound to follow +wherever he led, for in coorse he had hopes to catch him every +moment. That ere brute, he never laid down nor rested,--jest kep +slowly moving on, as if he was a Lunnon street-boy, with a bobby at +his heels. Through creeks and rivers and swamps he led that poor +fellow. His boots got chuck full o' cold water, and when the sun +went down it friz into solid hice; and that misfortnit man he felt +his legs--which was his life, you see, ma'am--gradially dyin' under +him. Yet he was a well-plucked one, if ever there was such a party +on this airth. He told me he had took _five_ mortial hours to come +the last mile, the horse walkin' slowly afore him, and guiding him +like. And how do you think he did it, with two pillars of hice for +legs? Why he lifted up just one leg and then the other with both +his hands, and put them afore him, and took his steps that way." + +Here honest Ned, his eyes glistening, and his ugly little face +glowing with emotion through its coating of sunburn, paused, as if +he did not like to go on. + +I was more touched and interested than I could avoid. showing, and +cried, "Oh, _do_ tell me, Palmer, what became of the poor fellow! +Did he die?" + +Ned cleared his throat, and moved so as to get between me and the +light from the door, as he said huskily, "He came very nigh to it, +ma'am. I never did set eyes on such a decent patient chap as that +man was. I did the very wust thing I could a' done, the town +doctors told me, for I brought him into the hut, instead o' keeping +him outdoors and rubbing his poor black legs with snow. 'Stead o' +that, I wrapped him up warm in my own blankets, after I had chipped +his boots and the hice off of 'em, and I made up a roarin' fire. +Good Lord, how the poor fellow groaned when he begun to get warm! I +gave him a pannikin full o' hot tea, with a drop o' grog in it, and +that seemed to make him awful bad. At last he said, with the sweat +from sheer agony pouring down his face, "Look here, matey: couldn't +you hump me out in the snow again? for it aint nigh so bad to bear +it cold as it is to bear it hot." Not a bad word did he say, ma'am, +and he tried not to give in more nor he could help; but he was clean +druv wild with the hanguish in his legs. + +"Presently I remembers, quite sudden like, that a bush doctor, name +of Tomkins, was likely to be round by Simmons, cos' o' his missus. +So I got on my 'oss in a minnit, and I rides off and fetches him, +for sure enough he was there; and though Simmons' missis wasn't to +say over her troubles, she spoke up from behind the curtain of red +blanket she had put up in her tidy little hut, and bade old Tomkins +go with me. May God bless her and hers for that same, say I! Well, +ma'am, when Tomkins come back with me and saw the poor fellow (he +was fair shoutin' with the pain in his legs by then), he said +nothin' could be done. "They'll mortify by morrow mornin'," says +he, "and then he'll die easy." So with that he goes back with the +first light next day, to Simmons. Sure enough, the poor fellow did +get a bit easier next day, and I felt clear mad to think he was +goin' to die before my very eyes. "Not if I can help it!" I cries, +quite savage like. But he only smiled a patient smile, and said, +"God's will be done, mate. He knows best, and I aint in any pain to +speak of, now." + +"By and bye I hears a rumbling and a creaking, and cracking of +whips; and when I looks out, what do I see but the bullock-dray from +Simmons' coming up the flat. It was the only thing on wheels within +forty mile, and Simmons had brought it his own self to see if we +couldn't manage to get the poor fellow down to the nighest town. I +won't make my yarn no longer than I can help, ma'am, so I'll only +mention that we made a lot o' the strongest mutton broth you ever +tasted; we slung a hammock of red blankets in the dray, and we got +the poor fellow down by evening to a gentleman's station. There +they made us kindly welcome, did all they could for him, and +transhipped the hammock into a pair-horse dray, which went quicker +and was easier. We got on as fast as we could every step of the +way, and by midnight that poor fellow was tucked into a clean bed in +the hospital at Christchurch, with both his legs neatly cut off just +above the knee, for there wasn't a minute to lose." + +I was almost afraid to inquire how the sufferer fared, for Ned's +eyes were fairly swimming with unshed tears; but he smiled brightly, +and said, "The ladies and gentlemen in the town, they set up a +_subscribetion_, and bought the poor chap a first-rate pair o' +wooden legs, and he could even manage to ride about after a bit; and +instead o' wandering about looking for country, or gold, or what +not, he settled down as a carrier, and throve and did well. And I +was thinking, ma'am, as how I'd like to return thanks for that poor +fellow's wonderful recovery, for I've never had a chance of going to +Church since, and its nigh upon two years ago that it happened." + +"So you shall, Ned: so you shall!" we said with one voice. And so +at our first Church gathering at our dear little antipodean home, +F---, who acted as our minister, paused in the beautiful Thanksgiving +Service, after he had read solemnly and slowly the simple words, +"Especially for Thy late mercies vouchsafed to --- ," and Ned Palmer +chimed in with an "Amen,"--misplaced, indeed, but none the less +hearty, and delightful to hear. + + + +Chapter X: Swaggers. + + +Dr. Johnson did not know the somewhat vulgar word which heads this +paper. At least he did not know it as a noun, but gives "swagger: +v.n., to bluster, bully, brag;" but the Slang Dictionary admits it +as a word, springing indeed from the thieves' vocabulary: "one who +carries a swag." Neither of these books however give the least idea +of the true meaning of the expression, which is as fully recognised +as an honest word in both Australia and New Zealand as any other +combination of letters in the English language. A swagger is the +very antithesis then of a swaggerer, for, whereas, the one is full +of pretension and abounds in unjust claims on our notice, the +swagger is humility and civility itself. He knows, poor weary +tramp, that on the favourable impression he makes upon the "boss," +depends his night's lodging and food, as well as a job of work in +the future. We will leave then the ideal swaggerer to some other +biographer who may draw glowing word-pictures of him in all his +jay's splendour, and we will confine ourselves to describing the +real swagger, clad in flannel shirt, moleskin trowsers, and what +were once thick boots, but might now be used as sieves. + +Nothing astonished me so much in my New Zealand Station Life as +these visitors. Even Sir Roger de Coverley himself would have +looked with distrust upon most of our swagger-guests, and yet I +never heard of an instance in our part of the country where the +unhesitating, ungrudging hospitality extended by the rich squatters +to their poorer compatriots was ever abused. I say "in our part," +because unfortunately, wherever gold is discovered, either in quartz +or riverbed, the good old primitive customs and ways die out of +themselves in a few weeks, and each mammon-seeker looks with +distrust on a stranger. Only fifty or sixty miles from us, as the +crow might fly across the snowy range, where an immense Bush clothes +the banks of the Hokitika river right down to its sand-filled mouth +on the West Coast, the great gold diggings broke out seven or eight +years ago, and changed the face of society in that district in a few +days. _There_ a swagger meant a man who might rob or murder you in +your sleep after you had fed and lodged him; or--under the most +favourable circumstances supposing him to be a "milder mannered +man,"--a "fossicker," who would not hesitate to "jump your claim," +or hang about when you are prospecting, to watch how much of the +colour you found, and then go off stealthily to return next day at +the head of a "rush" of a thousand diggers. + +Even before the famous Maungatapu murders in 1866, swaggers were +looked upon with distrust on the West Coast, and after that date +hardly any one travelled in those parts without carrying a small +revolver in his breast-pocket. Nothing is more tantalising than an +allusion to a circumstance which is not well-known; and as I feel +certain that very few of my readers have ever heard of what may be +called the first great crime committed in the Middle Island, a brief +account of that terrible tragedy may not be out of place. Gold of +course was at the bottom of it, but the canvas-bags full of the +glittering flakes were red with blood by the time they reached the +bank at Nelson. The diggings on the West Coast were only two years +old at that date, and although it was not uncommon for prospecting +parties cutting their way, axe in hand, through the thick bush, to +come upon skeletons of men in lonely places, still it might be taken +for granted that these were the remains of early explorers or +travellers who had got lost and starved to death within the green +tangled walls of this impenetrable forest. The scenery of that part +of the Middle Island is far more beautiful than in the agricultural +or pastoral districts. Giant Alps clothed half up their steep sides +with evergreen pines,--whose dark forms end abruptly where snow and +ice begin,--stand out against a pure sky of more than Italian blue, +and only when a cleared saddle is reached can the traveller look +down over the wooded hills and vallies rolling away inland before +him, or turn his eyes sea-ward to the bold coast with its many +rivers, whose wide mouths foam right out to where the great Pacific +waves are heaving under the bright winter sun. + +Such, and yet still more fair must have been the prospect on which +Burgess, Kelly, Levy, and Sullivan's eyes rested one June morning in +the mid-winter of 1866. They were, one and all, originally London +thieves, and had been transported years before to the early penal +settlements of Australia. From thence they had managed, by fair +means and foul, to work their way to other places, and had latterly +been living in the Middle Island, earning what they could by +horse-breaking and divers odd jobs. But your true convict hates +work with a curiously deadly hatred, and these four men agreed to go +and look round them at the new West Coast diggings. They found, +however, that there, as elsewhere, it would be necessary to work +hard, so in disgust at seeing the nuggets and dust which rewarded +the toil of more industrious men, they left Hokitika and reached +Nelson on their way to Picton, the chief town of the adjoining +province of Marlborough. Most of the gold found its way under a +strongly armed escort to the banks in both these towns, but it was +well-known that fortunate diggers occasionally travelled together, +unarmed, and laden with "dust." So safe had been the roads +hitherto, that the commonest precautions were not taken, nor the +least secrecy observed about travellers' movements. + +It was therefore no mystery that four unarmed diggers, carrying a +considerable number of ounces of gold-dust with them, were going to +start from the Canvas-town diggings for Nelson on a certain day, and +the men I have mentioned set out to meet them. One part of their +long journey led them over the Maungatapu range by a saddle, which +in its lowest part is 2,700 feet above the sea-level. The night +before the murder, the victims and their assassins camped out with +only ten miles between them. So lonely and deserted was the rough +mountain track, that the appearance of a poor old man named Battle +alarmed Burgess and his gang dreadfully, and they immediately +murdered him, in order that he should not report having passed them +on the road. Between the commission of this act of precaution and +the arrival of the little band of travellers, no one else was seen. +Burgess appears to have shown some of the qualities of a good +general; for he selected a spot where the only path wound along a +steep side-cutting, less than six feet wide, with an unbroken forest +on the upper, and a mass of tangled bush on the lower side. As the +doomed men approached the murderers sprang out, and each thrusting a +revolver close to their faces, called on them "to hold up their +hands." This is an old bushranger challenge, and is meant to ensure +perfect quiescence on the part of the victim. The travellers +mechanically complied, and in this way were instantly separated, led +to different spots, and ruthlessly shot dead. + +It was all over in a moment: Burgess and his men flung the bodies +down among the tangled bush, and returned to Nelson rejoicing +exceedingly over the simple and easy means by which they had +possessed themselves of several hundred pounds. Of course they +calculated on the usual supine indifference to other people's +affairs, which prevails in busy gold-seeking communities; but in +this instance the public seemed to be suddenly seized by a violent +and inconvenient curiosity to find out what had become of the four +men who were known to have started from Canvas-town two or three +days before. No one ever dreamed of a murder having been committed, +not even when another "swagger" reached Nelson and stated that he +had followed the diggers on the road, only a mile or so behind, had +suddenly lost sight of them at the spot I have mentioned, and had +never been able to overtake them. Instead of leaving the now +excited little town, or keeping quiet, Burgess, Kelly, Levy, and +Sullivan, may truly be said to have become "swaggerers;" for they +loitered about the place, ostentatiously displaying their bags of +gold dust. Unsuspicious as the Nelson people were, they acted upon +a sort of instinct,--that instinct within us which answers so +mysteriously to the cry of blood from the earth,--and arrested these +four men. Still, the matter might have ended there for lack of a +clue, if one of the party, Sullivan, had not suddenly turned +informer, and led the horrified town's-people to the jungle which +concealed the bodies. Here my dreadful story may end; for we need +not follow the course of the trial, which resulted in the complete +conviction of the three other men. I have only dwelt on so horrible +a theme in order to make my readers understand how natural it was +that I should feel nervous, when it became apparent to my +understanding that the custom of the country demanded that you +should ask no questions, but simply tell any travellers who claimed +your hospitality where they were to sleep, and send them in large +supplies of mutton, flour, and tea. + +On one occasion it chanced that F---, our stalwart cadet Mr. A---, +and the man who did odd jobs about the place, were all on the point +of setting out upon some expedition, when a party of four swaggers +made their appearance just at sundown. No true swagger ever appears +earlier, lest he might be politely requested to "move on" to the +next station; whereas if he times his arrival exactly when "the +shades of night are falling fast," no boss could be hard-hearted +enough to point to mist-covered hills and valleys, which are a +net-work of deep creeks and swamps, and desire the wayfarer to go on +further. Once, and only once, did I know of such a thing being done; +but I will not say more about that unfortunate at this moment, for I +want to claim the pity of all my lady readers for the very +unprotected position I am trying to depict. F--- could not +understand my nervousness, and did not reassure me by saying, as he +mounted his horse, "I've told them to sleep in the stable. I am +pretty sure they are run-away sailors, they seem so footsore. +Good-bye! don't expect me until you see me!" + +Now I was a very new chum in those days, and had just heard of the +Maungatapu murders. These guests of mine looked most disreputable, +and were all powerful young men. I do not believe there was a +single lock or bolt or bar on any door in the whole of the little +wooden house: the large plate-chest stood outside in the verandah, +and my dressing-case could have been carried off through the +ever-open bedroom window by an enterprising thief of ten years old. +As for my two maids,--the only human beings within reach,--they were +as perfectly useless on any emergency as if they had been wax dolls. +One of them had the habit of fainting if anything happened, and the +other used to tend her until she revived, when they both sat still +and shrieked. Their nerves had once been tested by a carpenter, who +was employed about the house, and cut his hand badly; on another +occasion by the kitchen chimney which took fire; and that was the +way they behaved each time. So it was useless to look upon their +presence as any safeguard; indeed one of them speedily detected a +fancied likeness to Burgess in one of the poor swaggers, and +shrieked every time she saw him. + +We were indeed three "lone, 'lorn women," all through that weary +night. I could not close my eyes; but laid awake listening to the +weka's shrill call, or the melancholy cry of the bitterns down in +the swamp. With the morning light came hope and courage; and I must +say I felt ashamed of my suspicions when my cook came to announce +that the "swaggers was just agoin' off, and wishful to say good-bye. +They've been and washed up the tin plates and pannikins and spoons +as clean as clean can be; and the one I thought favoured Burgess so +much, mum, he's been and draw'd water from the well, all that we +shall want to-day; and they're very civil, well-spoken chaps, if you +please, mum!" F--- was right in his surmise, I fancy; for there +were plenty of tattooed pictures of anchors and ships on the brawny +bare arms of my departing guests. They seemed much disappointed to +find there was no work to be had on our station; but departed, with +many thanks and blessings, "over the hills and far away." + +Latterly, with increasing civilization and corresponding social +economy, there have been many attempts made by new-fangled managers +of runs, more than by the run-holders themselves, to induce these +swaggers to work for their tucker,--to use pure colonial +phraseology. Several devices have been tried, such as taking away +their swags (_i.e._, their red blankets rolled tightly into a sort +of pack, which they carry on their backs, and derive their name +from), and locking them up until they had chopped a small quantity +of wood, or performed some other trifling domestic duty. But the +swagger will be led, though not driven, and what he often did of his +own accord for the sake of a nod or a smile of thanks from my pretty +maid-servants, he would not do for the hardest words which ever came +out of a boss's mouth. There are also strict rules of honesty +observed among these men, and if one swagger were to purloin the +smallest article from a station which had fed and sheltered him, +every other swagger in all the country side would immediately become +an amateur detective to make the thief give up his spoil. A pair of +old boots was once missing from a neighbouring station, and +suspicion fell upon a swagger. Justice was perhaps somewhat tardy +in this instance, as it rested entirely in the hands of every tramp +who passed that way; but at the end of some months the boots were +found at home, and the innocence of the swaggers, individually and +collectively, triumphantly established. + +The only instance of harshness to a swagger which came under my +notice during three years residence in New Zealand, is the one I +have alluded to above, and contains so much dramatic interest in its +details, that it may not be out of place here. + +Although I have naturally dwelt in these papers more upon our bright +sunny weather, our clear, bracing winter days, and our balmy spring +and autumn evenings, let no intending traveller think that he will +not meet with bad weather at the Antipodes! I can only repeat what +I have said with pen and voice a hundred times before. New Zealand +possesses a very capricious and disagreeable climate: disagreeable +from its constant high winds: but it is perhaps the most singularly +and remarkably healthy place in the world. This must surely arise +from the very gales which I found so trying to my temper, for damp +is a word without meaning; as for mildew or miasma, the generation +who are growing up there will not know the meaning of the words; and +in spite of a warm, bright day often turning at five minutes warning +into a snowy or wet afternoon, colds and coughs are almost unknown. +People who go out there with delicate lungs recover in the most +surprising manner; surprising, because one expects the sudden +changes of temperature, the unavoidable exposure to rain and even +snow, to kill instead of curing invalids. But the practice is very +unlike the theory in this case, and people thrive where they ought +to die. + +During my first winter in Canterbury we had only one week of +_really_ bad weather, but I felt at that time as if I had never +realized before what bad weather meant. A true "sou'-wester" was +blowing from the first to the second Monday in that July, without +one moment's lull. The bitter, furious blast swept down the +mountain gorges, driving sheets of blinding rain in a dense wall +before it. Now and then the rain turned into large snow-flakes, or +the wind rose into such a hurricane that the falling water appeared +to be flashing over the drenched earth without actually touching it. +Indoors we could hardly hear ourselves speak for the noise of the +wind and rain against the shingle roof. It became a service of +danger, almost resembling a forlorn hope, to go out and drag in logs +of wet wood, or draw water from the well,--for, alas, there were no +convenient taps or snug coal-holes in our newly-erected little +wooden house. We husbanded every scrap of mutton, in very different +fashion to our usual reckless consumption, the consumption of a +household which has no butcher's bill to pay; for we knew not when +the shepherd might be able to fight his way through the storm, with +half a sheep packed before him, on sturdy little "Judy's" back. The +creeks rose and poured over their banks in angry yellow floods. +Every morning casualties in the poultry yard had to be reported, and +that week cost me almost as many fowls and ducks as my great +christening party did. The first thing every morning when I opened +my eyes I used to jump up and look out of the different windows with +eager curiosity, to see if there were any signs of a break in the +weather, for I was quite unaccustomed to be pent up like a besieged +prisoner for so many succeeding days. We did not boast of shutters +in those regions, and even blinds were a luxury which were not +wasted in the little hall. Consequently, when my unsatisfactory +wanderings about the silent house--for no one else was up--led me +that dreadful stormy morning into the narrow passage called the +back-hall, I easily saw through its glass-door what seemed to me one +of the most pathetic sights my eyes had ever rested upon. + +Just outside the verandah, which is the invariable addition to New +Zealand houses, stood, bareheaded, a tall, gaunt figure, whose +rain-sodden garments clung closely to its tottering limbs. A more +dismal morning could not well be imagined: the early dawn struggling +to make itself apparent through a downpour of sleet and rain, the +howling wind (which one could almost see as it drove the vapour wall +before it), and the profound solitude and silence of all except the +raging storm. + +At first I thought I must be dreaming, so silent and hopeless stood +that weird figure. My next impulse, without staying to consider my +dishevelled hair and loose wrapper, was to open the door and beckon +the poor man within the shelter of the verandah. When once I had +got him there I did not exactly know what to do with my guest, for +neither fire nor food could be procured quite so early. He crouched +like a stray dog down on the dripping mat outside the door, and +murmured some unintelligible words. In this dilemma I hastened to +wake up poor F---, who found it difficult to understand why I wanted +him to get up at daylight during a "sou'-wester." But I entreated +him to go to the hall door, whilst I flew off to get my lazy maids +out of their warm beds. With all their faults, they did not need +much rousing on that occasion. I suppose I used very forcible words +to convey the misery of the object standing outside, for I know that +Mary was in floods of tears, and had fastened her gown on over her +night-gear, whilst I was still speaking; and the cook had tumbled +out of bed, and was kneeling before the kitchen fire with her eyes +shut, kindling a blaze, apparently, in her sleep. + +As soon as things were in this forward state, I returned to the +verandah, and found our swagger guest drawing a very long breath +after a good nip of pure whisky which F--- had promptly administered +to him. "I'm fair clemmed wi' cold and wet," the swagger said, +still bundled up in his comparatively sheltered corner. "I've been +out on the hills the whole night, and I am deadbeat. Might I stop +here for a bit?" He asked this very doubtfully, for it is quite +against swagger etiquette to demand shelter in the morning. For all +answer he was taken by the shoulder, and helped up. I never shall +forget the poor tramp's deprecating face, as he looked back at me, +whilst he was being led through the pretty little dining-room, with +its bright carpet, on which his clay-clogged boots and dripping +garments left a muddy, as well as a watery track. "All right," I +said, with colonial brevity; and so we escorted our strange guest +through the house into the kitchen, where the ever-ready kettle and +gridiron were busy preparing tea and chops over a blazing fire. Of +course the maids screamed when they saw us, and I do not wonder at +their doing so, for neither F--- nor I looked very respectable, with +huddled on dressing-gowns and towzled hair; whilst our foot-sore, +drenched guest subsided into a chair by the door, covered his +wretched pinched face with two bony hands, and burst into tears. I +certainly never expected to see a swagger cry, and F--- declared the +sight was quite as new to him as to me. However, the poor man's +tears and helplessness gave fresh energy to my maids' treacherous +nerves, and they even suggested dry clothes. Our good-natured +cadet, who at this moment appeared on the scene, was only too happy +to find some outlet for _his_ superfluous benevolence, and hastened +off, to return in a moment or two with an old flannel shirt, dry and +whole, in spite of its faded stripes, a pair of moleskin trousers, +and a huge pair of canvas cricketing shoes. It was no time for +ceremony, so we women retreated for a few minutes into the +store-room, whilst F--- and Mr. A--- made the swagger's toilette, +getting so interested in their task as even to part his dripping +hair out of his eyes. He had no swag, poor fellow, having lost his +roll of red blankets in one of the treacherous bog-holes across the +range. + +That man was exactly like a lost, starving dog. He ate an enormous +breakfast, curled himself upon some empty flour-sacks in a dry +corner of the kitchen, and slept till dinner time; then another +sleep until the supper hour, and so on, the round of he clock. All +this time he never spoke, though we were dying to hear how he had +come into such a plight. The "sou'-wester" still raged furiously +out of doors without a moment's cessation, and we were obliged to +have recourse to the tins of meat kept in the store-room for such an +emergency. The shepherd told us afterwards he had ventured out to +look for some wethers, his own supply being exhausted, but the whole +mob had hidden themselves so cleverly that neither man nor dog could +discover their place of shelter. On the Monday night, exactly a +week after the outbreak of bad weather; the skies showed signs of +having exhausted themselves, and nature began to wear a sulky air, +as if her temper were but slowly recovering herself. The learned in +such matters, however, took a cheerful view of affairs, and declared +the worst to be over,--"for this bout,"--as they cautiously added. + +Whether it was the three days of rest, warmth, and good food which +unlocked the swagger's heart, or not, I do not pretend to decide; +but that evening, over a pipe in the kitchen, he confided to Mr. A--- +that he had been working his way down to the sea-coast from a +station where he had been employed, very far back in the hill +ranges. The "sou'-wester" had overtaken him about twenty miles from +us, but only five from another station, where he had applied towards +the evening for shelter, being even then drenched with rain, and +worn out by struggling through such a tremendous storm. There, for +some reason which I confess did not seem very clear, he had been +refused the unvarying hospitality extended in New Zealand to all +travellers, rich or poor, squatter or swagger, and had been directed +to take a short cut across the hills to our station, which he was +assured could easily be reached in an hour or two more. The track, +a difficult one enough to strike in summer weather, became, indeed, +impossible to discover amid rushing torrents and driving wind and +rain; besides which, as the poor fellow repeated more than once +during his story, "I was fair done up when I set out, for I'd been +travelling all day." Mr. A--- told us what the man had been saying, +before we all went to bed, adding, "He seems an odd, surly kind of +creature, for although he declares he is going away the first thing +to-morrow, if the rain be over, I noticed he never said a word +approaching to thanks." + +The rain was indeed over next morning, and a flood of brilliant +sunshine awoke me "bright and early," as the country people say. It +seemed impossible to stop in bed, so I jumped up, thrust my feet +into slippers, and my arms into a warm dressing-gown, and sallied +forth, opening window after window, so as to let the sunshine into +rooms which not even a week's steady down-pour could render damp. +What a morning it was, and for mid-winter too! No haze, or fog, or +vapour on all the green hills, whose well-washed sides were +glistening in a bright glow of sunlight. For the first time, too, +since the bad weather had set in, was to be heard the incessant +bleat which is music to the ears of a New Zealand sheep-farmer. +White, moving, calling patches on the hillsides told that the sheep +were returning to their favourite pastures, and a mob of horses +could be descried quietly feeding on the sunny flat. + +But I had no eyes for beauties of mountain or sky. I could do +nothing but gaze on the strange figure of the silent swagger, who +knelt yes, positively knelt, on the still wet and shining shingle +which formed an apology for a gravel path up to the back-door of the +little wooden homestead. His appearance was very different to what +it had been three days before. Now his clothes were dry and clean +and mended,--my Irish maids doing; bless their warm hearts! He had +cobbled up his boots himself, and his felt hat, which had quite +recovered from its drenching, lay at his side. The perfect rest and +warmth and good food had filled up his hollow cheeks, but still his +countenance was a curious one; and never, until my dying day, can I +forget the rapture of entreaty on that man's upturned face. It +brings the tears into my own eyes now to recollect its beseeching +expression. I do not think I ever _saw_ prayer before or since. He +did not perceive me, for I had hidden behind a sheltering curtain, +to listen to his strange, earnest petitions; so he could not know +that anybody in the house was stirring, for he knelt at the back, +and all my fussings had taken place in the front, and he could not, +therefore, have been doing anything for effect. + +There, exactly where he had crouched a wretched, way-worn tramp in +pouring rain, he knelt now with the flood of sunshine streaming down +on his uplifted face, whilst he prayed for the welfare and +happiness, individually and collectively, of every living creature +within the house. Then he stood up and lifted his hat from the +ground; but before he replaced it on his head, he turned, with a +gesture which would have made the fortune of any orator,--a gesture +of mingled love and farewell, and solemnly blessed the roof-tree +which had sheltered him in his hour of need. I could not help being +struck by the extraordinarily good language in which he expressed +his fervent desires, and his whole bearing seemed quite different to +that of the silent, half-starved man we had kept in the kitchen +these last three days. I watched him turn and go, noiselessly +closing the garden gate after him, and--shall I confess it?--my +heart has always felt light whenever I think of that swagger's +blessing. When we all met at breakfast I had to take his part, and +tell of the scene I had witnessed; for everybody was inclined to +blame him for having stolen away, scarcely without saying good-bye, +or expressing a word of thanks for the kindness he had received. +But I knew better. + +From the sublime to the ridiculous we all know the step is but +short, especially in the human mind; and to my tender mood succeeds +the recollection of an absurd panic we once suffered from, about +swaggers. Exaggerated stories had reached us, brought by timid fat +men on horseback, with bulky pocket-books, who came to buy our +wethers for the Hokitika market, of "sticking up" having broken out +on the west land. I fear my expressions are often unintelligible to +an English reader, but in this instance I will explain. "Sticking +up" is merely a concise colonial rendering of "Your money or your +life," and was originally employed by Australian bushrangers, those +terrible freebooters whose ranks used to be always recruited from +escaped convicts. Fortunately we had no community of that class, +only a few prisoners kept in a little ricketty wooden house in +Christchurch, from which an enterprising baby might easily have +escaped. I dare say as we get more civilized out there, we shall +build ourselves handsome prisons and penitentiaries; but in those +early days a story was current of a certain jailor who let all his +captives out on some festal occasion, using the tremendous threat, +that whoever had not returned by eight o'clock should be "_locked +out!_" + +But to return to that particular winter evening. We had been +telling each other stories which we had heard or read of bushranging +exploits, until we were all as nervous as possible. Ghosts, or even +burglar stories, are nothing to the horror of a true bushranger +story, and F--- had made himself particularly ghastly and +disagreeable by giving a minute account of an adventure which had +been told to him by one of the survivors. + +We listened, with the wind howling outside, to F---'s horrid +second-hand story, of how one fine day up country, eight or ten +men,--station hands,--were "stuck up" by one solitary bushranger, +armed to the teeth. He tied them up one by one, and seated them all +on a bench in the sun, and deliberately fired at and wounded the +youngest of the party; then, seized with compunction, he unbound one +of the captives, and stood over him, revolver in hand, whilst he +saddled and mounted a horse, to go for a doctor to set the poor +boy's broken leg. Before the messenger had gone "a league, a +league, but barely twa',"--the freebooter recollected that he might +bring somebody else back with him besides the doctor, and flinging +himself across his horse, rode after the affrighted man, and coolly +shot him dead. I really don't know how the story ended: I believe +everybody perished; but at this juncture I declared it to be +impossible to sit up any longer to listen to such tragedies, and +went to bed. + +Exactly at midnight,--the proper hour for ghosts; burglars, and +bushrangers, and such "small deer" to be about, everybody was +awakened simultaneously by a loud irregular knocking, which sounded +with hollow reverberations all through the wooden house. +"Bushrangers!" we all thought, every one of us; for although +burglars may not usually knock at hall-doors in England, it is by no +means uncommon for their bolder brethren to do so at the other end +of the world. It is such a comfort to me now, looking back on that +scene to remember that our stalwart cadet was as frightened as +anybody. _He_ stood six feet one in his stockings, and was a match +for any two in the country side, and yet, I am happy to think, he +was as bad as any one. As for me, to say that my heart became like +water and my knees like soft wax, is to express in mild words my +state of abject terror. There was no need to inquire what the maids +thought, for smothered shrieks, louder and louder as each peal of +knocks vibrated through the little house, proclaimed sufficiently +their sentiments on the subject. + +Dear me, how ridiculous it all must have been! In one corner of the +ceiling of our bedroom was a little trap-door which opened into an +attic adjoining that where the big cadet slept. Now whilst F--- was +hurriedly taking down his double-barrelled gun from its bracket just +below this aperture, and I held the candlestick with so shaky a hand +that the extinguisher clattered like a castanet, this door was +slowly lifted up, and a large white face, with dishevelled stubbly +hair and wide-open blue eyes, looked down through the cobwebs, +saying in a husky whisper, "Could you let me have a rifle, or any +thing?" This was our gallant cadet, who had no idea of presenting +himself at a disadvantage before the foe. I had desperately seized +a revolver, but F--- declared that if I persisted in carrying it I +certainly should go first, as he did not wish to be shot in the +back. + +We held a hurried council of war,--Mr. A--- assisting through the +trap door, and the maids breathing suggestions through the +partition-planks,--but the difficulty consisted in determining at +which door the knocking was going on. Some said one, and some +another (for there were many modes of egress from the tiny +dwelling); but at last F--- cried decidedly, "We must try them all +in succession," and shouldering his gun, with the revolver sticking +in the girdle of his dressing-gown, sallied valiantly forth. I +don't know what became of Mr. A---: I believe he took up a position +with the rifle pointing downwards; the maids retreated beneath their +blankets, and I (too frightened to stay behind) followed closely, +armed with an Indian boar-spear. F--- flung the hall door wide +open, and called out, "Who's there?" but no one answered. The +silence was intense, and so was the cold; therefore we returned +speedily indoors to consult. "It must be at the back door," I +urged; adding, "that is the short cut down the valley, where +bushrangers would be most likely to come." "Bushrangers, you silly +child!" laughed F---. "It's most likely a belated swagger, or else +somebody who is playing us a trick." However as he spoke a +succession of fierce and loud knocks resounded through the whole +house. "It must be at the kitchen door," F--- said. "Come along, +and stand well behind me when I open the door." + +But we never opened the door; for on our way through the kitchen, +with its high-pitched and unceiled roof,--a very cavern for echoes,-- +we discovered the source of the noise, and of our fright. Within a +large wooden packing-case lay a poor little lamb, and its dying +throes had wakened us all up, as it kicked expiring kicks violently +against the side of the box. It was my doing bringing it indoors, +for I never _could_ find it in my heart to leave a lamb out on the +hills if we came across a dead ewe with her baby bleating desolately +and running round her body. F--- always said, "You cannot rear a +merino lamb indoors; the poor little thing will only die all the +same in a day or two;" and then I am sorry to say he added in an +unfeeling manner, "They are not worth much now," as if that could +make any difference! I had brought this, as I had brought scores of +others, home in my arms from a long distance off; fed it out of a +baby's bottle, rubbed it dry, and put it to sleep in a warm bed of +hay at the bottom of this very box. They had all died quietly, +after a day or two, in spite of my devotion and nursing, but this +little foundling kicked herself out of the world with as much noise +as would have sufficed to summon a garrison to surrender. It is all +very well to laugh at it now, but we were, five valiant souls in +all, as thoroughly frightened at the time as we could well be. + +The only real harm a swagger did me was to carry off one of my best +maidservants as his wife, but as he had 300 pounds in the bank at +Christchurch, and was only travelling about looking for work, and +they have lived in great peace and prosperity ever since, I suppose +I ought not to complain. This swagger was employed in deepening our +well, and Mary was always going to see how he was getting on, so he +used to make love to her, looking up from the bottom of a deep +shaft, and shouting compliments to her from a depth of sixty feet. +What really won her Irish heart, though, was his calmly putting a +rival, a shepherd, into a water-butt. She could not resist that, so +they were married, and are doing well. + +Let no one despise swaggers. They are merely travelling workmen, +and would pay for their lodging if it was the custom to do so. I am +told that even now they are fast becoming things of the past; for +one could not "swagger" by railroad, and most of our beautiful happy +vallies will soon have a line of rails laid down throughout its +green and peaceful length. + + + +Chapter X: Changing servants. + + +To the eyes of an English housewife the title of this chapter must +appear a very bad joke indeed, and the amusement what the immortal +Mrs. Poyser would call "a poor tale." Far be it from me to make +light of the misery of a tolerably good servant coming to you after +three months' service, just as you were beginning to feel settled +and comfortable, and announcing with a smile that she was going to +be married; or, with a flood of tears, that she found it "lonesome." +Either of these two contingencies was pretty sure to arise at least +four times a year on a station. + +At first I determined to do all I could to make their new home so +attractive to my two handmaidens that they would not wish to leave +it directly. In one of Wilkie Collins' books an upholsterer is +represented as saying that if you want to domesticate a woman, you +should surround her with bird's-eye maple and chintz. That must +have been exactly my idea, for the two rooms which I prepared for my +maidservants were small, indeed, yet exquisitely pretty. Of course +I should not have been so foolish as to buy any of the unnecessary +and dainty fittings with which they were decorated, but as all the +furniture and belongings of an English house, a good deal larger +than our station home, had been taken out to it, there were sundry +toilet tables, etc., whose destination would have been a loft over +the stable, if I had not used them for my maids. + + +I had seen and chosen two very respectable young women in +Christchurch, one as a cook, and the other as a housemaid. The +cook, Euphemia by name, was a tall, fat, flabby woman, with a pasty +complexion, but a nice expression of face, and better manners than +usual. She turned out to be very good natured, perfectly ignorant +though willing to learn, and was much admired by the neighbouring +_cockatoos_, or small farmers. Lois the housemaid, was the smallest +and skimpiest and most angular girl I ever beheld. At first I +regarded her with deep compassion, imagining that she was about +fifteen years of age, and had been cruelly ill-treated and starved. +How she divined what was passing in my mind I cannot tell, but +during our first interview she suddenly fired up, and informed me +that she was twenty-two years old, that she was the seventh child of +a seventh child, and therefore absolutely certain to achieve some +wonderful piece of good luck; and furthermore, that she had been +much admired in her own part of the country, and was universally +allowed to be "the flower of the province." This statement, +delivered with great volubility and defiant jerkiness of manner, +rather took my breath away; but it was a case of "Hobson's choice" +just then about servants, and as I was assured she was a respectable +girl, I closed with her terms (25 pounds a year and all found) on +the spot. The fat pale cook was to get 35 pounds. Now-a-days I +hear that wages are somewhat lower, but the sums I have named were +the average figures of six or seven years ago, especially +"up-country." + +Here I feel impelled to repeat the substance of what I have stated +elsewhere,--that these rough, queer servants were, as a general +rule, perfectly honest, and of irreproachable morals, besides +working, in their own curious fashion, desperately hard. Our family +was an exceptionally small one, and the "place" was considered +"light, you bet," but even then it seemed to me as if both my +domestics worked very hard. In the first place there was the +washing; two days severe work, under difficulties which they thought +nothing of. All the clothes had to be taken to a boiler fixed in +the side of a hill, for the convenience of the creek, and washed and +rinsed under a blazing sun (for of course it never was attempted on +a wet day) and amid clouds of sand-flies. Not until evening was +this really hard day's work over, and the various garments +fluttering in the breeze up a valley behind the house. The chances +were strongly in favour of a tremendous nor'-wester coming down this +said valley during the night, and in that case there would not be a +sign next morning of any of the clothes. Heavy things, such as +sheets or table cloths, might be safely looked for under lee of the +nearest gorse hedge, but it would be impossible even to guess where +the lighter and more diaphanous articles had been whisked to. A +week afterwards the shepherds used to bring in stray cuffs and +collars, and upon one occasion "Judy," the calf, was discovered in a +paddock hard by, breakfasting off my best pocket handkerchiefs with +an excellent appetite. Of course everything was dirty, and needed +to be washed over again. We had a mangle, which greatly simplified +matters on the second day, but it used not to be uncommon on +back-country stations to get up the fine things with a flat stone, +heated in the wood ashes, for an iron. After the washing operations +had been brought to a more or less successful ending, there came the +yeast making and the baking, followed by the brewing of sugar beer, +preserves had to be made, bacon cured, all sorts of things to be +done, besides the daily duties of scrubbing and cleaning, and +cooking at all hours for stray visitors or "swaggers." + +But I am overcome with contrition at perceiving into what a +digression I have wandered; having strayed from my maids' rooms to +their duties. They arrived as usual on a dray late in the evening, +tired and wearied enough, poor souls. In those early days I had not +yet plucked up courage to try my hand in the kitchen, and our meals +had been left to the charge of F---, who, whatever he may be in +other relations of life, is a vile cook; and our good-natured cadet +Mr. U---, who was exceedingly willing, but profoundly ignorant of +the elements of cookery. For fear of being tempted into another +digression, I will briefly state that during that week I lived in a +chronic state of hunger and heartburn, and sought forgetfulness from +repeated attacks of indigestion, by decorating my servants' rooms. +They opened into each other, and it would have been hard to find two +prettier little nests. Each had its shining brass bedstead with +chintz hangings, its muslin-draped toilette table, and its daintily +curtained window, besides a pretty carpet. I can remember now the +sort of dazed look with which Euphemia regarded a room such as she +had never seen; whilst Lois considered it to be an instalment of her +good luck, and proceeded to contemplate her sharp and elfish +countenance in her looking-glass, pronouncing it as her opinion that +she wanted more colour. That she certainly did, and she might have +added, more flesh and youthfulness, while she was about it. +However, they were greatly delighted, and Euphemia who was of a +grateful and affectionate disposition, actually thanked me, for +having with my own hands arranged such pretty rooms for them. + +This was a very good beginning. They were both hard-working, civil +girls, and got on very well together, leaving me plenty of leisure +to attend to the quantities of necessary arrangements which have to +be made when you are settling yourself for good, fifty miles from a +shop, and on a spot where no other human being has ever lived +before. F--- congratulated myself in private on my exceptional good +luck, and attributed it partly to my having followed the +Upholsterer's advice in that book of Mr. Wilkie Collins. But as it +turned out, F--- was dwelling in a fool's paradise. In vain had it +been pointed out to me that a certain stalwart north countryman, +whose shyness could only be equalled by his appetite, had been a +most regular attendant for some weeks past at our Sunday evening +services, accepting the offer of tea in the kitchen, afterwards, +with great alacrity. I scouted these insinuations, appealing to the +general sense of the public as to whether Moffatt had _ever_ been +known to refuse a meal anywhere, or under any circumstances, and +declaring that, if he was "courting," it was being done in solemn +silence, for never a sound filtered through the thin wooden planks +between the kitchen and the dining room, except the clatter of a +vigorously plied knife and fork, for Moffatt's teas always included +a shoulder of mutton. + +But I was wrong and others were right. Early in October, our second +spring month, I chanced to get up betimes one delicious, calm +morning, a morning when it seemed a new and exquisite pleasure to +open each window in succession, and fill one's lungs with a deep, +deep breath of that heavenly atmosphere, at once so fresh and so +pure. + +Quiet as the little homestead lay, nestled among the hills, there +were too many morning noises stirring among the animals for any one +to feel lonely or dull, I should have thought. From a distance came +a regular, monotonous, lowing sound. That was "Hetty," the pretty +little yellow Alderney, announcing from the swamps that she and her +two female friends were quite ready to be milked. Their calves +answered them dutifully from the English grass paddock, and between +the two I could see Mr. U---'s tall figure stalking down the flat +with his cattle dog at his heels, and hear his merry whistle +shrilling through the silent air. Then all the ducks and fowls +about the place were inquiring, in noisy cackle, how long it would +be before breakfast was ready, whilst "Helen's" whinneying made me +turn my head to see her, with a mob of horses at her heels, coming +over the nearest ridge on the chance of a stray carrot or two going +begging. All the chained-up dogs were pulling at the staples of +their fastenings, and entreating by short, joyous barks, to be +allowed just one good frisk and roll in the sparkling dewy grass +around. But even I, universal spoiler of animals that I am, was +obliged to harden my heart against their noisy appeals; for quite +close to the stable, on the nearest hill-side, an immense mob of +sheep and young lambs were feeding. That steep incline had been +burnt six weeks before, and was now as green as the clover field at +its base, affording a delicious pasturage to these nursing mothers +and their frisky infants. I think I see and hear it all now. The +moving white patches on the hill-side, the incessant calling and +answering, the racing and chasing among the curly little merino +lambs, and above all the fair earth the clear vault of an almost +cloudless sky bent itself in a deep blue dome. Just over the +eastern hills the first long lances of the sun lay in bright shafts +of silver sheen on the dew-laden tussocks, and that peculiar morning +fragrance rose up from the moist ground, which is as much the reward +of the early riser as the early worm is of the bird. + +Was it a morning for low spirits or sobs and sighs? Surely not; and +yet as I turned the handle of the kitchen door those melancholy +sounds struck my ear. I had intended to make my entrance with a +propitiatory smile, suitable to such a glorious morning, proceed to +pay my damsels a graceful compliment on their somewhat unusual early +rising, and wind up with a request for a cup of tea. But all these +friendly purposes went out of my head when I beheld Euphemia seated +on the rude wooden settle, with its chopped tussock mattrass, which +had been covered with a bright cotton damask, and was now called +respectfully, "the kitchen sofa." Her arm was round Lois's waist, +and she had drawn that young lady's shock head of red curls down on +her capacious bosom. Both were crying as if their hearts would +break, and startled as I felt to see these floods of tears, it +struck me how incongruous their attitude looked against the +background of the large window through which all nature looked so +smiling and sparkling. The kettle was singing on the fire, +everything seemed bright and snug and comfortable indoors. "What in +the world has happened?" I gasped, really frightened. + +"Nothing, mem: its only them sheep," sobbed Euphemia, "calling like. +They always makes me cry. Your tea 'll be ready directly, mem" +(this last with a deep sigh.) + +"Is it possible you are crying about that?" I inquired. "Yes, mem, +yes," said Euphemia, in heart-broken accents, clasping Lois, who was +positively howling, closer to her sympathetic heart. "Its terrible +to hear 'em. They keeps calling and answering each other, and that +makes us think of our home and friends." Now both these women had +starved as factory "hands" all their lives, and I used to feel much +more inclined to cry when they told me, all unconscious of the +pathos, stories of their baby work and hardships. Certainly they +had never seen a sheep until they came to New Zealand, and as they +had particularly mentioned the silence which used to reign supreme +at the manufactory during work hours, I could not trace the +connection between a dingy, smoky, factory, and a bright spring +morning in this delightful valley. "What nonsense!" I cried, half +laughing and half angry. "You can't be in earnest. Why you must +both be ill: let me give you each a good dose of medicine." I said +this encouragingly, for there was nothing in the world Euphemia +liked so much as good substantial physic, and the only thing I ever +needed to keep locked up from her was the medicine drawer. + +Euphemia seemed touched and grateful, and her face brightened up +directly, but Lois looked up with her frightful little face more +ugly than usual, as she said, spitefully, "Physic won't make them +nasty sheep hold their tongues. I'm sure _this_ isn't the place for +me to find my luck, so I'd rather go, if you please, mem. I've +prospected-up every one o' them gullies and never seen the colour +yet, so it ain't any good my stopping." + +This was quite a fresh light thrown upon the purpose of Lois's long +lonely rambles. She used to be off and away, over the hills +whenever she had finished her daily work, and I encouraged her +rambles, thinking the fresh air and exercise must do her a world of +good. Never had I guessed that the sordid little puss was turning +over every stone in the creek in her search for the shining flakes. + +"Why did you think you should find gold here?" I asked. + +"Because they do say it lies in all these mountain streams," she +answered sullenly; "and I'm always dreaming of nuggets. Not that a +girl with my face and figure wants 'dust' to set her off, however. +But if its all the same to you, mem, I'd rather leave when Euphemia +does." + +"Are _you_ going, then?" I inquired, turning reproachfully to my +pale-faced cook, who actually coloured a little as she answered, +"Well, mem, you see Moffatt says he's got his window frames in now, +and he'll glass them the very first chance, and I think it'll be +more company for me on Saddler's Flat. So if you'll please to send +me down in the dray, I should be obliged." + +Here was a pretty upset, and I went about my poultry-feeding with a +heavy heart. How was I to get fresh servants, and above all, what +was I to do for cooking during the week they were away? These +questions fortunately settled themselves in rather an unexpected +manner. I heard of a very nice willing girl who was particularly +anxious to come up as housemaid, to my part of the world, on +condition that I should also engage as cook her sister, who was +leaving a place on the opposite side of a range of high hills to the +south. I shall only briefly say that all inquiries about these +damsels proved satisfactory, and I could see Euphemia and Lois +depart, with tolerable equanimity. The former wept, and begged for +a box of Cockles' pills; but Lois tossed her elfish head, and gave +me to understand that she had never been properly admired or +appreciated whilst in my service. + + + +Chapter XII: Culinary troubles. + + +I want to lodge a formal complaint against all cookery books. They +are not the least use in the world, until you know how to cook! and +then you can do without them. Somebody ought to write a cookery +book which would tell an unhappy beginner whether the water in which +she proposes to put her potatoes is to be hot or cold; how long such +water is to boil; how she is to know whether the potatoes are done +enough; how to dry them after they have boiled, and similar things, +which make all the difference in the world. + +To speak like Mr. Brooke for a moment. "Rice now: I have dabbled in +that a good deal myself, and found it wouldn't do at all." + +Of course in time, and after many failures, I did learn to boil a +potato which would not disgrace me, and to bake bread, besides in +time attaining to puddings and cakes, of which I don't mind +confessing I was modestly proud. It used to be a study, I am told, +to watch my face when a cake had turned out as it ought. Gratified +vanity at the lavish encomiums bestowed on it, and horrified dismay +at the rapidity with which a good sized cake disappeared down the +throats of the company, warred together in the most artless fashion. +The reflection would arise that it was almost a pity it should be +eaten up so very fast; yet was it not a fine thing to be able to +make such a cake! and oh, would the next be equally good? + +One lesson I leaned in my New Zealand kitchen,--and that was not to +be too hard on the point of breakages; for no one knows, unless from +personal experience, how true was the Irish cook's apology for +breaking a dish, when she said that it let go of her hand. I +declare that I used, at last, to regard my plates and dishes, cups +and saucers, yea, even the pudding basons, not as so much china and +delf, but as troublesome imps, possessed with an insane desire to +dash themselves madly on the kitchen floor upon the least +provocation. Every woman knows what a slippery thing to hold is a +baby in its tub. I am in a position to pronounce that wet plates +and dishes are far more difficult to keep hold of. They have a way +of leaping out of your fingers, which must be felt to be believed. +After my first week in my kitchen I used to wonder, not at the +breakages, but at anything remaining unbroken. + +My maids had a very ingenious method of disposing of the fragments +of their pottery misfortunes. At the back of the house an open +patch of ground, thickly covered with an under-growth of native +grass, and the usual large proportion of sheltering tussocks +stretched away to the foot of the nearest hill. This was burned +every second year or so, and when the fire had passed away the sight +it revealed was certainly very curious. Beneath each tussock had +lain concealed a small heap of broken china, which must have been +placed there in the dead of the night. The delinquents had +evidently been at the pains to perfect their work of destruction by +reducing the china articles in question, to the smallest imaginable +fragments, for fear of a protruding corner betraying the clever +_cache_; and the contrast afforded to the blackened ground on which +they lay, by the gay patches of tiny fragments huddled together, was +droll indeed. That was the moment for recognising the remains of a +favourite jug or plate, or even a beloved tea-cup. There they were +all laid in neat little heaps, and the best of it was that the +existing cook always declared loudly her astonishment at the base +ingenuity of such conduct, although I could not fail to recognise +many a plate or dish which had disappeared from the land of the +living during her reign. + +All housekeepers will sympathise with my feelings at seeing an +amateur scullion, who had distinguished himself greatly in the +Balaklava charge, but who appeared to have no idea that boiling +water would scald his fingers,--drop the top plate of a pile which +he had placed in a tub before him. In spite of my entreaties to be +allowed to "wash-up" myself, he gallantly declared that he could do +it beautifully, and that the great thing was to have the water very +hot. In pursuance of this theory he poured the contents of a kettle +of boiling water over his plates, plunged his hand in, and dropped +the top plate, with a shriek of dismay, on those beneath it. Out of +consideration for that well-meaning emigrant's feelings, I abstain +from publishing the list of the killed and wounded, briefly stating +that he might almost as well have fired a shot among my poor plates. +A perfect fountain of water and chips and bits of china flew up into +the air, and I really believe that hardly one plate remained +uncracked. So much for one's friends. I must candidly state that +although the servants broke a good deal, we destroyed twice as much +amongst us during the week which must needs elapse between their +departure and, the arrival of the new ones. + +Shall I ever forget the guilty pallor which overspread the bronzed +and bearded countenance of one of my guests, who particularly wished +to dust the drawing-room ornaments, when on hearing a slight crash I +came into the room and found him picking up the remains of a china +shepherdess? Considering everything, I kept my temper remarkably +well, merely observing that he had better go into the verandah and +sit down with a book and his pipe, and send Joey in to help me. +Joey was a little black monkey from Panama, who had to be provided +with broken bits of delf or china in order that he might amuse +himself by breaking them ingeniously into smaller fragments. + +But the real object of this chapter was to relate some of my own +private misfortunes in the cooking line. Once, when Alice S--- was +staying with me and we had no servants, she and I undertook to bake +a very infantine and unweaned pig. It was all properly arranged for +us, and, making up a good fire, we proceeded to cook the little +monster. + +Hours passed by; all the rest of the dinner got itself properly +cooked at the right time, but the pig presented exactly the same +appearance at dewy eve as it had done in the early morn. We looked +rather crest-fallen at its pale condition when one o'clock struck, +but I said cheerfully, "Oh, I daresay it will be ready by supper!" +But it was not: not a bit of it. Of course we searched in those +delusive cookery books, but they only told us what sauces to serve +with a roasted pig, or how to garnish it, entering minutely into a +disquisition upon whether a lemon or an orange had better be stuck +into its mouth. We wanted to know how to cook it, and why it would +not get itself baked. About an hour before supper-time I grew +desperate at the anticipation of the "chaff" Alice and I would +certainly have to undergo if this detestable animal could not be +produced in a sufficiently cooked state by evening. We took it out +of the oven and contemplated it with silence and dismay. Fair as +ever did that pig appear, and as if it had no present intention of +being cooked at all. A sudden idea came into our heads at the same +moment, but it was Alice who first whispered, "Let us cut off its +head." "Yes," I cried; "I am sure that prevents its roasting or +baking, or whatever it is." So we got out the big carving knife and +cut off the piggy's head. Far be it from me to offer any solution +of the theory why the head should have interfered with the baking +process, but all I know is, that, like the old woman in the nursery +song, everything began to go right, and we got our supper that +night. + +Has anybody ever reflected on how difficult it must be to get a +chimney swept without ever a sweep or even a brush? Luckily our +chimneys were short and wide, and we used a good deal of wood; so in +three years the kitchen chimney only needed to be cleansed twice. +The first time it was cleared of soot by the simple process of being +set on fire, but as a light nor'-wester was blowing, the risk to the +wooden roof became very great and could only be met by spreading wet +blankets over the shingles. We had a very narrow escape of losing +our little wooden house, and it was fortunate it happened just at +the men's dinner hour when there was plenty of help close at hand. +However great my satisfaction at feeling that at last my chimney had +been thoroughly swept, there was evidently too much risk about the +performance to admit of its being repeated, so about a year +afterwards I asked an "old chum" what I was to do with my chimney. +"Sweep it with a furze-bush, to be sure," she replied. I mentioned +this primitive receipt at home, and the idea was carried out a day +or two later by one man mounting on the roof of the house whilst +another remained in the kitchen; the individual on the roof threw +down a rope to the one below, who fastened a large furze-bush in the +middle, they each held an end of this rope, and so pulled it up and +down the chimney until the man below was as black as any veritable +sweep, and had to betake himself, clothes and all, to a neighbouring +creek. As for the kitchen, its state cannot be better described +than in my Irish cook's words, who cried, "Did mortial man ever see +sich a ridiklous mess? Arrah, why couldn't ye let it be thin?" But +for all that she set bravely to work and got everything clean and +nice once more, merely stipulating that the next time we were going +to sweep chimney we should let her know beforehand, that she might +go somewhere "right away." + +I feel, however, that in all these reminiscences I am straying +widely from the point which was before my mind when I began this +chapter, and that is the delusiveness of a cookery book. No book +which I have ever seen tells you, for instance, how to boil rice +properly. They all insist that the grains must be white and dry and +separate, but they omit to describe the process by which these +results can be attained. They tell you what you are to do with your +rice after it is boiled, but not how to boil it. The fact is, I +suppose, that the people who write such books began so early to be +cooks themselves, that they forget there ever was a time when such +simple things were unknown to them. + +Even when I had, after many failures, mastered the art of boiling +rice, and. also of making an excellent curry,--for which +accomplishment I was indebted to the practical teaching of a +neighbour,--there used still to be misfortunes in store for me. One +of these caused me such a bitter disappointment that I have never +quite forgotten it. This was the manner of it. We were without +servants. My readers must not suppose that such was our chronic +condition, but when you come to change your servants three or four +times a year, and have to "do" for yourself each time during the +week which must elapse before the arrival of new ones, there is an +ample margin for every possible domestic misadventure. If any doubt +me, let them try for themselves. + +On this special occasion, which proved to be nearly the last, my +mind was easy, for the simple reason that I was now independent of +cookery books. I had puzzled out all the elementary parts of the +science for myself, and had no misgivings on the subject of potatoes +or even peas. So confident was I, and vain, that I volunteered to +make a curry for breakfast. Such a savoury curry as it was, and it +turned out to be all that the heart of a hungry man could desire; so +did the rice: I really felt proud of that rice; each grain kept +itself duly apart from its fellow, and was as soft and white and +plump as possible. Everything went well, and I had plenty of +assistants to carry in the substantial breakfast as fast as it was +ready: the coffee, toast, all the other things had gone in; even the +curry had been borne off amid many compliments, and now it only +remained for me to dish up the rice. + +Imagine the scene. The bright pretty kitchen, with its large window +through which you could see the green hills around dotted with +sheep; the creek chattering along just outside, whilst close to the +back door loitered a crowd of fowls and ducks on the chance of fate +sending them something extra to eat. Beneath the large window, and +just in front of it, stood a large deal table, and it used to be my +custom to transfer the contents of the saucepans to the dishes at +that convenient place. Well, I emptied the rice into its dish, and +gazed fondly at it for a moment: any cook might have been proud of +that beautiful heap of snow-white grains. I had boiled a great +quantity, more than necessary it seemed, for although the dish was +piled up almost as high as it would hold, some rice yet remained in +the saucepan. + +Oh, that I had been content to leave it there! But no: with a +certain spasmodic frugality which has often been my bane, I shook +the saucepan vehemently, in order to dislodge some more of its +contents into my already full dish. As I did so, my treacherous +wrist, strained by the weight of the saucepan, gave way, and with +the rapidity of a conjurer's trick I found the great black saucepan +seated,--yes, that is the only word for it,--seated in the midst of +my heap of rice, which was now covered by fine black powder from its +sooty outside. All the rice was utterly and completely spoiled. I +don't believe that five clean grains were left in the dish There +was nothing for it but to leave it to get cold and then throw it all +out for the fowls, who don't mind _riz au noir_ it seems. Although +I feel more than half ashamed to confess it, I am by no means sure I +did not retire into the store-room and shed a tear over the fate of +that rice. Everybody else laughed, but I was dreadfully mortified +and vexed. + + + +Chapter XIII: Amateur Servants. + + +I flattered myself on a certain occasion that I had made some very +artful arrangements to provide the family with something to eat +during the servants' absence. I had been lamenting the week of +experiments in food which would be sure to ensue so soon as the dray +should leave, in the hearing of a gallant young ex-dragoon, who had +come out to New Zealand to try and see if one could gratify tastes, +requiring, say a thousand a year to provide for, on an income of 120 +pounds. He was just finding out that it was quite as difficult to +manage this in the Southern as in the Northern Hemisphere, but his +hearty cheery manner, and enormous stock of hope, kept him up for +some time. + +"I'll come and cook for you," he cried. "I can cook like a bird. +But I can't wash up. No, no: it burns too much. If you can get +somebody to wash up, I'll cook. And just look here: it would be +very nice if we could have some music after dinner. You've got a +piano, haven't you? That's right. Well, now, don't you ask that +pretty Miss A---, who has just come out from England, to come and +stop with you, and then we could have some music?" + +"Where did you learn to cook?" I inquired, suspiciously; for F--- +had also assured me _he_ could cook, and this had upset my +confidence. + +"On the west coast; to be sure! Ask Vere, and Williams and Taylor, +and everybody, if they _ever_ tasted such pies as I used to make +them." My countenance must have still looked rather doubtful, +because I well remember sundry verbal testimonials of capability +being produced; and as I was still very ignorant of the rudiments of +the science of cookery, I shrank from assuming the whole +responsibility of the family meals. So the household was arranged +in this way:--Captain George, head cook; Mr. U---, scullery-maid; +Miss A---, housemaid; myself, lady-superintendent; Mr. Forsyth (a +young naval officer), butler. On the principle of giving honour to +whom honour is due, this gallant lieutenant deserves special mention +for the way he cleaned glass. He did not pay much attention to his +silver, but his glass would have passed muster at a club. The only +drawback was the immense time he took over each glass, and the way +he followed either Miss A--- or me all about the house, holding a +tumbler in one hand, and a long, clean glass-cloth in the other, +calling upon us to admire the polish of the crystal. To clean two +tumblers would be a good day's work for him. From Monday to +Saturday (when the dray returned), this state of things went on. Of +course I had taken the precaution of having a good supply of bread +made beforehand, besides cakes and biscuits, tarts and pies; +everything to save trouble. But it was not of much use, for, +alleging that they were working so hard, the young men, F--- at +their head, though I was always telling him he was married and ought +to know better, set to work and ate up everything immediately, as +completely as if they had been locusts. And then, they were all so +dreadfully wild and unmanageable! Mine was by far the hardest task +of all, the keeping them in any sort of order. For instance, +Captain George declared one day, that if there was one thing he did +better than another, it was to make jam. Consequently a fatigue +party was ordered out to gather strawberries, and, after more than +half had been eaten on the way to the house, a stewpan was filled. +I had to do most of the skimming, as Captain George wanted to +practice a duet with Miss A---. I may as well mention here that we +never had any opportunity of seeing how the jam kept, because the +smell pervaded the whole house to such an extent, that, declaring +they felt like schoolboys again, the gentlemen fell on my half dozen +pots of preserves in a body, carried them off, and ate them all up +then and there, announcing afterwards, there had just been a pot +a-piece. + +It was really a dreadful time, although we got well cooked _plats_, +for Captain George wasted quite as much as he used. The pigs fed +sumptuously that week on his failures, in sauces, minces; puddings, +and what not. He had insisted on our making him a paper cap and a +linen apron, or rather a dozen linen aprons, for he was perpetually +blackening his apron and casting it aside. Then, he used suddenly +to cease to take any interest in his occupation, and, seating +himself sideways on the kitchen dresser, begin to whistle through a +whole opera, or repeat pages of poetry. I tried the experiment of +banishing Miss A--- from the kitchen during cooking hours, but a few +bars played on the piano were quite enough to distract my cook from +his work. My only quiet time was the afternoon, when about four +o'clock, my amateur servants all went out for a ride, and left me in +peace for a couple of hours. I had enough to do during that short +time to tidy up; to collect the scattered books and music, and +prepare the tea-supper, for which they came back in tearing spirits, +and frantically hungry, between seven and eight o'clock. After this +meal had been cleared away, and Mr. U--- and I had washed up (the +others declaring they were too tired to stir), we all used to +adjourn to the verandah. It happened to be an exceptionally _still_ +week, no dry, hot nor'-westers, nor cold, wet sou'-westers, and it +was perfectly delicious to sit out in the verandah and rest, after +the labours of the day, in our cane easy-chairs. The balmy air was +so soft and fresh, and the intense silence all around so profound. +Unfortunately there was a full moon. I say "unfortunately," because +the flood of pale light suggested to these dreadful young men the +feasibility of having what they called a "servant's ball." In vain +I declared that the housekeeper was never expected to dance. "Oh, +yes! "laughed Captain George. "I've often danced with a +housekeeper, and very jolly it was too. Come along! F---, _make_ +her dance." And I was forced to gallopade up and down that verandah +till I felt half dead with fatigue. The boards had a tremendous +spring, and the verandah (built by F---, by the way), was very wide +and roomy, so it made an excellent ball-room. As for the trifling +difficulty about music, that was supplied by Captain George and Mr. +U--- whistling in turn, time being kept by clapping the top and +bottom of my silver butter dish together, cymbal-wise. Oh, dear! +It takes my breath away now even to think of those evenings! I see +Alice A--- flitting about in her white dress and fern-leaf wreath, +dancing like the slender sylph she really was, but never can I +forget the odd effect of the gentlemen's feet! No one had their +dress boots up at the station, and as Alice and I firmly declined to +dance with anybody who wore "Cookham" boots (great heavy things with +nails in the soles), they had no other course open to them except to +wear their smart slippers. There were slippers of purple velvet, +embroidered with gold; others of blue kid, delicately traced in +crimson lines; foxes heads stared at us in startling perspective +from a scarlet ground; or black jim-crow figures disported +themselves on orange tent-stitch. Then these slippers were all more +or less of an easy fit, and had a way of flying out on the lawn +suddenly, startling my dear dog Nettle out of his first sleep. + +Ah, well! that may be an absurd bit of one's life to look back upon, +but its days were bright and innocent enough. Health was so perfect +that the mere sensation of being alive became happiness, and all the +noise of the eager, bustling, pushing world, seemed shut away by +those steep hills which folded our quiet valley in their green arms. +People have often said to me since, "Surely you would not like to +have lived there for ever?" Perhaps not. I can only say that three +years of that calm, idyllic life, held no weary hour for me, and I +am quite sure that quiet time was a great blessing to me in many +ways. First of all, in health, for a person must be in a very bad +way indeed for New Zealand air not to do them a world of good; next, +in teaching me, amid a great deal of fun and laughter, sundry useful +accomplishments, not easily learned in our luxurious civilization; +and, lastly, those few years of seclusion from the turmoil of life +brought leisure to think out one's own thoughts, and to sift them +from other peoples' ideas. Under such circumstances, it is hard if +"the unregarded river of our life," as Matthew Arnold so finely call +it be not perceived, for one then + + "--- Becomes aware of his life's flow + And bears its winding murmur, and be sees + The meadows where it glides, the sun, the breeze; + And there arrives a lull in the hot race, + Wherein he doth for ever chase + That flying and elusive shadow, rest." + +One good effect of my sufferings with a house full of unruly +volunteers, was that during the brief stay (only two months), of my +next cook, I set to work assiduously to learn as many kitchen +mysteries as she could teach me, and so became independent of +Captain George or F---, or any other amateur, good, bad, or +indifferent. + +Nothing could be more extraordinary than the way in which the two +affectionate sisters, mentioned [earlier] and who succeeded Euphemia +and Lois, quarrelled. They were very unlike each other in +appearance, and one fruitful source of bickering arose from their +respective styles of beauty. Not only did they wrangle and rave at +each other all the day long, during every moment of their spare +time, but after they had gone to bed, we could hear them quite +plainly calling out to each other from their different rooms. If I +begged them to be quiet, there might be silence for a moment, but it +would shortly be broken by Maria, calling out, "I say, Dinah, don't +you go for to wear green, my girl. I only tell you friendly, but +you're a deal too yellow for that. It suits _me_, 'cause I'm so +fresh and rosy, but you never _will_ have my 'plexion, not if you +live to be eighty. Good night. I thought I'd just mention it while +I remembered." This used to aggravate Dinah dreadfully, and she +would retaliate by repeating some complimentary speech of Old Ben's, +or Long Tom's, the stockman, and then there would be no peace for an +hour. + +Their successors were Clarissa and Eunice. Eunice wept sore for a +whole month, over her sweeping and cleaning. To this day I have not +the dimmest idea _why_. She gave me warning, amid floods of tears, +directly she arrived, though I could not make out any other tangible +complaint than that "the dray had jolted as never was;" and to +Clarissa, I gave warning the first day I came into the kitchen. + +She received me seated on the kitchen table, swinging her legs, +which did not nearly touch the floor. She had carefully arranged +her position so as to turn her back towards me, and she went on +picking her teeth with a hair-pin. I stood aghast at this specimen +of colonial manners, which was the more astonishing as I knew the +girl had lived in the service of a gentleman's family in the North +of England for some time before she sailed. + +"Dear me, Clarissa," I cried, "is that the way you behaved at +Colonel St. John's?" + +Clarissa looked at me very coolly over her shoulder (I must mention +she was a very pretty girl, blue-eyed and rosy-cheeked, but with +_such_ a temper!) and, giving her plump shoulders a little shrug, +said, "No, in course not: _they_ was gentlefolks, they was." + +I confess I felt rather nettled at this, and yet it was difficult to +be angry with a girl who looked like a grown up and very pretty +baby. I restrained my feelings and said, "Well, I should like you +to behave here as you did there. Suppose you get off the table and +come and look what we can find in the store room." + +"I _have_ looked round," she declared: "there 'aint much to be +seen." My patience began to run short, and I said very firmly, "You +must get off the table directly, Clarissa, and stand and speak +properly; or I shall send you down to Christchurch again." I +suppose that was exactly what the damsel wished, for she made no +movement; whereat I said in great wrath, "Very well, then you shall +leave at the end of a month." And so she did, having bullied +everybody out of their lives during that time. + +Whilst we are on the subject of manners, it may not be out of place +to relate a little episode of my early days "up country." I think I +have alluded [in "Station Life in New Zealand"] to our book club; +but I don't know that it has been explained that I used to change +the books on Sunday afternoon, after our little evening service. It +would have been impossible to induce the men to come from an immense +distance twice a week, and it was therefore necessary that they +should be able to get a fresh book after service. Nothing could +have been better than the behaviour of my little congregation: they +made it a point of giving no trouble whatever with their horses or +dogs, and they were so afraid of being supposed to come for what +they could get, that I had some difficulty in inducing those who +travelled from a distance to have a cup of tea in the kitchen before +they mounted, to set off on their long solitary ride homewards. +They were also exceedingly quiet and well-behaved; for if even a +dozen men or more were standing outside in fine weather, or waiting +within the kitchen if it were wet or windy, not a sound could be +heard. If they spoke to each other, it was in the lowest whisper, +and they would no more have thought of lighting their pipes anywhere +near the house than they would of flying. + +This innate tact and true gentlemanly feeling which struck me so +much in the labouring man as he appears in New Zealand, made the +lapse of good manners, to which I am coming, all the more +remarkable. Of course they never touched their hats to me: they +would make me a bow or take their hats _off_, but they never touched +them. I have often seen a hand raised involuntarily to the soft +felt hat, which every one wears there, but the mechanical action +would be arrested by the recollection of the first article of the +old colonial creed, "Jack is as good as his master." I never minded +this in the least, and got so completely out of the habit of +expecting any salutations, that it seemed quite odd to me to receive +them again on my return. No, what I objected to was, that when I +used to go into my kitchen, about ten minutes or so after the +service had been concluded, with the list of club books in my hand, +not a single man rose from his seat. They seemed to make it a point +to sit down somewhere; on a table or window seat if all the chairs +were occupied, but at all events not to be found standing. They +would bend their heads and blush, and glance shyly at each other for +encouragement as I came in, but no one got up, or took his hat off. +This went on for a few weeks, until I felt sure that this curious +behaviour did not spring from forgetfulness, or inattention. When I +mentioned my grievance in the drawing-room to the gentlemen, I only +got laughed at for my pains, and I was asked what else I expected? +To this question used to be added sundry anecdotes of earlier +colonial life, intended to reconcile me to the manners of these +later days. I remember particularly a legend of a man cook, who was +said to have walked into the sitting-room of the station where the +master was practising tunes on an accordion, and exclaimed, "Now, +look here, boss, if you don't leave off that there noise, which +perwents me gettin' a wink o' sleep, I'll clear out o' this, sharp, +to-morrow mornin'. So now yer know," and with that remark he +returned to his bunk. + +At last I was goaded to declare I felt sure that the men only +behaved in that way from crass ignorance, and that if they knew how +much my feelings were hurt, they would alter their manners directly. +This opinion was received with such incredulity that I felt roused +to declare I should try the experiment next Sunday afternoon. The +only warning which at all daunted me was the assurance that I should +affront my congregation and scare them away. It was the dread of +this which made my heart beat so fast, and my hands turn so cold as +I opened the kitchen-door the next Sunday afternoon. There were +exactly the same attitudes, every body perfectly civil and +respectful, but every body seated. Luckily my courage rose at the +right moment, and I came forward as usual with a smile, and said, +"Look here, my men, there is one little thing I want to ask you. Do +you know that it is not the custom anywhere, in any civilized +country, for gentlemen to remain seated and covered when a lady +comes into the room? If I were to go into a room in England, where +the Prince of Wales, or any of the finest gentlemen of the land were +sitting, just as you are now, they would all get up, the Prince +first, most likely, and they would certainly take off their hats! +Now why can't you all do the same, here?" + +The effect of my little speech was magical. Pepper glanced at +McQuhair, Moffatt crimsoned and nudged McKenzie, Wiry Ben slipped +off the window-seat and shyed his hat across the kitchen, whilst +Long Tom, the bullock-driver, "thanked me kindly for mentioning of +it;" and every body got up directly and took their hats off. I felt +immensely proud of my success, and hastened the moment of my return +to the drawing room, where I announced my triumph. I repeated my +little speech as concisely as possible; but, alas, it was not nearly +so well received as it had been in the kitchen! "Have you ever gone +to see a London club?" one person inquired. "Ah: I thought not! I +don't know about the Prince, because he always _does_ do the +prettiest things at the right moment, but I doubt very much about +all the others. I fear you have made a very wild assertion to get +your own way." I need hardly say I sulked at that incredulous +individual for many days but he always stuck firmly to his own +opinion. However, my men never required another hint. They came +just as regularly as usual to church, and we all lived happily ever +after. + +I feel that my chapter should end here; but any record of my New +Zealand servants would be incomplete without mention of my "bearded +cook." Every body thinks, when I say this, that I am going to tell +them about a man, but it is nothing of the sort. Isabella Lyon, in +spite of her pronounced beard, was a very fine woman; exceedingly +good-humoured looking and fresh-coloured, with most amiable +prepossessing manners. She had not long arrived, and had been at +once snapped up for an hotel, but she applied for my place, saying +she wished for quiet and a country life. Could any thing be more +propitious? I thought, like Lois, that my luck, so long in turning, +was improving, and that at last I was to have a cook who knew her +business. And so she did, thoroughly and delightfully. For one +brief fortnight we lived on dainties. Never could I have believed +that such a variety of dishes could have been produced out of +mutton. In fact we seemed to have everything at table except the +staple dish. Unlike the cook who actually sent me in a roast +shoulder of mutton for breakfast one morning, Isabella prided +herself on eliminating the monotonous animal from her bills of fare. +Certainly she was rather heavy on the sauces, etc., and I was trying +to pluck up courage to remonstrate, as it would not be easy or cheap +to replace them before a certain time of year. And then she was so +clean, so smiling, and so good-tempered. She seemed to treat us all +as if we were a parcel of children for whom she was never weary of +preparing surprises. As for me, I felt miserable if any shepherd or +well-to-do handsome young bachelor cockatoo came near the place, +dreading lest the wretch should have designs on my cook's heart and +hand. I rejoiced in her beard, and would not have had her without +it for worlds, as I selfishly hoped it might stand in her +matrimonial path. + +This Arcadian state of kitchen affairs went on for exactly a +fortnight. One evening, at the end of that time, we had been out +riding, and returned as usual very hungry. "What are we going to +have for supper?" inquired F---. I told him what had been ordered; +but when that meal made its appearance, lo, there was not a single +dish which I had named! The things were not exactly nasty, but they +were queer. For instance, pears are not usually stewed in gravy; +but they were by no means bad, and we took it for granted it was +something quite new. The housemaid, Sarah, looked very nervous and +scared, and glanced at me from time to time with a very wistful +look; but I was so delightfully tired and sleepy--one never seemed +to get beyond the pleasant stage of those sensations--that I did not +ask any questions. + +Next morning, when we came out to breakfast, imagine my astonishment +at seeing a tureen of half cold soup on the table, and nothing else! +I could hardly believe my eyes, and hastened to the kitchen to +explain that this was rather too much of a novelty in the +gastronomic line. If I live to be a hundred years old, I shall +never forget the sight--at once terrible and absurd--which met my +eyes. Before the kitchen fire stood Isabella, having evidently +slept in her clothes all night. She looked wretched and bloated, +and quite curiously dirty, as black as if she had been up the +chimney; and even I could see that, early as was the hour, she was +hopelessly drunk. Between both of her nerveless, black hands, she +held a poker, with which she struck, from time to time, a feeble +blow on a piled-up heap of plates, which she persisted in +considering a lump of coal. The fire was nearly out, but she +hastened to assure me that if she could only break this lump of coal +it would soon burn up. Need I say that I rescued my plates at once, +and marched the bearded one off to her own apartment. + +Oh, how dimmed its dainty freshness had become since even yesterday! +Sarah was summoned, and confessed that she had known last night that +"Hisabella" had gone on the "burst," having bought, for some +fabulous sum, a bottle of rum from a passing swagger. It was all +very dreadful, and worst of all was the scene of tears and penitence +I had to endure when the rum was finished. The dray, however, +relieved me of the incubus of her presence; and that was the only +instance of drunkenness I came across among my domestic changes and +chances. + + + +Chapter XIV: Our pets. + + +One of the first things which struck me when I came to know a little +more about the feelings and ways of my neighbours in the Malvern +Hills, was the good understanding which existed between man and +beast. I am afraid I must except the poor sheep, for I never heard +them spoken of with affection, nor do I consider that they were the +objects of any special humanity even on their owners' parts. This +must surely arise from their enormous numbers. "How can you be fond +of thousands of anything?" said a shepherd once to me, in answer to +some sentimental inquiry of mine respecting his feelings towards his +flock. That is the fact. There were too many sheep in our "happy +Arcadia" for any body to value or pet them. On a large scale they +were looked after carefully. Water, and sheltered feed, and +undisturbed camping grounds, all these good things were provided for +them, and in return they were expected to yield a large percentage +of lambs and a good "clip." Even the touching patience of the poor +animals beneath the shears, or amid the dust and noise of the yards, +was generally despised as stupidity. + +Far different is the feeling of the New Zealander, whether he be +squatter or cockatoo, towards his horse and his dog. They are the +faithful friends, and often the only companions of the lonely man. +Of course there will soon be no "lonely men" anywhere, but a few +years ago there were plenty of unwilling Robinson Crusoes in the +Middle Island; and whenever I came upon one of these pastoral +hermits, I was sure to find a dog or a horse, a cat, or even a hen, +established as "mate" to some poor solitary, from whom all human +companionship was shut out by mountain, rock, or river. + +"Are you not _very_ lonely here?" was often my first instinctive +question, as I have dismounted at the door of a shepherd's hut in +the back country, and listened to the eternal roar of the river +which formed his boundary, or the still more oppressive silence +which seemed to have reigned ever since the creation. + +"Well, mum, it aint very lively; but I've got Topsy (producing a +black kitten from his pocket), and there's the dogs, and I shall +have some fowls next year, p'raps." + +But my object in beginning this chapter was not to enter into a +disquisition on other people's pets, with which after all one can +have but a distant acquaintance, but to introduce some of my own +especial favourites to those kind and sympathetic readers who take +pleasure in hearing of my own somewhat solitary existence in that +distant land. I am quite ready to acknowledge that I never +thoroughly comprehended the individuality of animals, even of fowls +and ducks, until I lived up at the Station. Perhaps, like their +masters, they really get to possess more independence of character +under those free and easy skies; for where would you meet with such +a worldly and selfish cat as "Sandy," or so fastidious and +intelligent a smooth terrier as "Rose"? Sandy was an old bachelor +of a sleek appearance, red in colour, but with a good deal of white +shirt-front and wristbands, as to the get-up of which he was most +particular. It was easy to imagine Sandy sitting in a club window; +and I am _sure_ he had a slight tendency to gout and reading French +novels. Sandy's selfishness was quite open and above-board. He +liked you very much until somebody else came whom he liked better, +and then he would desert his oldest friend without hesitation. I +don't suppose the wildest young colley-pup ever dreamed of chasing +or worrying Sandy, who would not have stirred from his warm corner +by the fire for Snarleyow himself. Every now and then Sandy must +have felt alarmed about his health or his figure, for he ate less, +and walked gravely and sulkily up and down the verandah for hours, +but as soon as he considered himself out of danger, he relapsed into +all his self-indulgent ways. No one ventured to offer Sandy +anything but the choicest meats, and he was wont to sit up and beg +like a dog for a savoury tit-bit. But he would revenge himself on +you afterwards for the humiliation, you might be sure. + +What always appeared to me so odd, was that in spite of his known +and unblushing selfishness, Sandy used to be a great favourite, and +we all vied with each other for the honour of his notice. Now why +was this? If boundless time and space were at our disposal, we +might go deeply into the question and work it out, but as the +dimensions of this volume are not elastic, the impending social +essay shall be postponed, and we will confine ourselves to a brief +description of Sandy's outer cat. He was of a pure breed, far +removed from the long-legged, lanky race of ordinary station-cats, +who from time to time disappeared into the bush and contracted +alliances with the still more degraded specimens of their class who +had long been wild among the scrub. No: Sandy came of "pur sang," +and held his small square head erect, with a haughty carriage as +beseemed his ancestry. His fur was really beautiful, a sort of +tortoiseshell red, the lighter stripes repeating exactly the +different golden tints of a fashionable chignon. In early youth, +though it is difficult to imagine Sandy ever a playful kitten, his +tail had been curtailed to the length of three inches, and this +short, flexible stump gave an air of great decision to Sandy's +movements. But his chief peculiarity, and I must add, attraction, +in my opinion, was the perfume of his sleek coat. When Sandy +condescended to take his evening doze on my linsey lap, I never +smelt anything so strange and so agreeable as the odour of his fur, +specially that on the top of his head. It was like the most +delicate musk, but without any of the sickly smell common to that +scent. I believe Sandy knew of this personal peculiarity, and felt +proud of it. + +A far more unselfish and agreeable personage was Rose, the white +terrier, whose name often finds a loving place in these pages. She +and Sandy dwelt together in peace and amity, although the little +doggie never could have felt any affection for her selfish +companion. Rose's nerves were of a delicate and high-strung order, +and there was nothing she hated so much as uproarious noise. Every +now and then it chanced that during a few days of wet or windy +weather, our little house had been filled by passing guests: +gentlemen who had called in to ask for supper and a bed, intending +to go on next day. In a country where inns or accommodation-houses +are fifty miles apart, this is a common incident, and it sometimes +happens that the resources of station hospitality are taxed to the +utmost in this way. I have known our own little wooden box to be so +closely packed, that besides a guest on each sofa in the +drawing-room, there would be another on a sort of portable couch in +the dining-room. This was after the spare room had been filled to +the utmost. A delicate "new chum," who required to be pampered, had +retired to rest on the hard kitchen sofa described elsewhere; whilst +a couple of sturdy travellers were sleeping soundly in the saddle +room. After that, there could be nothing for the last comer except +a shake-down in red blankets. + +It _always_ happened I observed that everybody arrived together. +For weeks we would be alone. I lived once for eight months without +seeing a lady; and then, some fine evening, half a dozen +acquaintances would "turn up,"--there really is no other word for +it. Well, on these occasions, when, instead of departing next +morning, our impromptu guests have sometimes been forced to wait +until such time as the rain or the wind should cease; their pent-up +animal spirits became often too much for them, and they would feel +an irresistible impulse to get rid of some of their superfluous +health and strength by violent exercise. I set my face at once +against "athletic sports" or "feats of strength" being performed in +my little drawing-room, although they were always very anxious to +secure me for the solitary spectator; and I forget who hit upon the +happy thought of turning the empty wool-shed into a temporary +gymnasium. There these wild boys--for, in spite of stalwart frames +and bushy beards, the Southern Colonist's heart keeps very fresh and +young--used to adjourn, and hop and leap, wrestle and box, fence and +spar, to their active young limbs' content. They seemed very happy, +and loud were the joyous shouts and peals of laughter over the +failures; but after seeing the performance once or twice, I +generally became tired and bored, and used to slip away to the house +and my quiet corner by the fire. Rose considered it her duty to +remain at her master's heels as long as possible, but after a time +she too would creep back to silence and warmth, though she never +deserted her post until the noise grew altogether too much for her +nerves; and then, with a despairing whimper, sometimes swelling to a +howl, poor little Rose would tuck her tail between her legs, and +dash out, through the storm, to seek shelter and quiet with me. + +Whenever Rose appeared thus suddenly in my quiet retreat, I felt +sure some greater uproar than usual was going on down at the +wool-shed, and, more than once, on inquiry, I found Rose's nerves +must have been tried to the utmost before she turned and fled. + +As for the intelligence of sheep-dogs, a volume could be written on +the facts concerning them, and a still more entertaining book on the +fictions, for a New Zealand shepherd will always consider it a point +of honour to cap his neighbour's anecdote of _his_ dog's sagacity, +by a yet stronger proof of canine intelligence. I shall only, +briefly allude to one dog, whose history will probably be placed in +the colonial archives,--a colley, who knows his master's brand; and +who will, when the sheep get boxed, that is mixed together, pick +out; with unfailing accuracy, all the bleating members of his own +flock from amid the confused, terrified mass. As for the patience +of a good dog in crossing sheep over a river, I have witnessed that +myself, and been forced to draw conclusions very much in favour of +the dog over the human beings who were directing the operation. +Some dogs again, who are perfectly helpless with sheep, are +unrivalled with cattle, and I have stood on the edge of a swamp more +than once, and seen a dog go after a couple of milch cows, and fetch +them out of a herd of bullocks, returning for the second "milky +mother" after the first had been brought right up within reach of +the stockman's lash. + +Then among my horse friends was a certain Suffolk "Punch," who had +been christened the "Artful Dodger," from his trick of +counterfeiting lameness the moment he was put in the shafts of a +dray. That is to say if the dray was loaded; so long as it was +empty, or the load was light, the "Dodger" stepped out gaily, but if +he found the dray at all heavy, he affected to fall dead lame. The +old strain of staunch blood was too strong in his veins to allow him +to refuse or jib, or stand still. Oh, no! The "Dodger" arranged a +compromise with his conscience, and though he pulled manfully, he +resorted to this lazy subterfuge. More than once with a "new chum" +it had succeeded to perfection, and the "Dodger" found himself back +again in his stable with a rack of hay before him, whilst his +deluded owner or driver was running all over the place to find a +substitute in the shafts. If I had not seen it myself, I could not +have believed it. In order to induce the "Dodger" to act his part +thoroughly, a drayman was appointed whom the horse had never seen, +and therefore imagined could be easily imposed upon. The moment the +signal was given to start, the "Dodger," after a glance round, which +plainly said, "I wonder if I may try it upon you," took a step +forward and almost fell down, so desperate was his lameness. The +driver, who was well instructed in his part, ran round, and lifted +up one sturdy bay leg after the other, with every appearance of the +deepest concern. This encouraged the "Dodger," who uttered a groan, +but still seemed determined to do his best, and limped and stumbled +a yard or two further on. I confess it seemed impossible to believe +the horse to be quite sound, and if it had depended on me, the +"Dodger" would instantly have been unharnessed and put back in his +stable. But the moment had come to unmask him. His master stepped +forward, and pulling first one cunning ear, on the alert for every +word, and then the other; cried, "It wont do, sir! step out +directly, and don't let us have any nonsense." The "Dodger" groaned +again, this time from his heart probably, shook himself, and, +leaning well forward in his big collar, stepped out without a +murmur. The lameness had disappeared by magic, nor was there even +the slightest return of it until he saw a new driver, and considered +it safe to try his oft-successful "dodge" once more. + +Very different was "Star," poor, wilful, beauty, whose name and fate +will long be remembered among the green hills, where her short life +was passed. Born and bred on the station, she was the pride and joy +of her owner's heart. Slender without being weedy, compact without +clumsiness, her small head well set on her graceful neck, and her +fine legs, with their sinews like steel, she attracted the envy of +all the neighbouring squatters. "What will you take for that little +grey filly when she is broken?" was a constant question. "She's not +for sale," her owner used to answer. "I'll break her myself, and +make her as gentle as a dog, and she'll do for my wife when I get +one." But this proved a castle in the air, so far as Star was +concerned. The wife was not so mythical. In due time _she_ appeared +in that sheltered valley, and, standing at the head of a mound +marked by a stake whereon a star was rudely carved, heard the story +of the poor creature's fate. From the first week of her life, Star +(so-called from a black, five-pointed mark on her forehead), showed +signs of possessing a strange wild nature. Unlike her sire or dam, +she evidently had a violent temper,--and not to put too fine a point +on it,--was as vicious a grey mare as ever flung up her heels in a +New Zealand valley. + +When her second birthday was passed, Star's education commenced. +The process called "gentling," was a complete misnomer for the +series of buck jumps, of bites and kicks, with which the young lady +received the slightest attempt to touch her. She had a horrible +habit also of shrieking, really almost like a human being in a +frantic rage; she would rush at you with a wild scream of fury, and +after striking at you with her front hoofs, would wheel round like +lightning, and dash her hind legs in your face. The stoutest +stockman declined to have anything whatever to do with Star; the +most experienced breaker "declined her, with thanks;" generally +adding a long bill for repairs of rack and manger, and breaking +tackle, and not unfrequently a hospital report of maimed and wounded +stablemen. Amateur horsemen of celebrity arrived at the station to +look at the beautiful fiend, and departed, saying they would rather +not have anything to say to her. At last, she was given over in +despair, to lead her own free life, never having endured the +indignity of bit or bridle for more than two minutes. + +Months passed away, and Star and her tantrums had been nearly +forgotten, when one mild winter evening the stockman came in to +report that,--wonder of wonders,--Star was standing meekly outside, +whinnying, and as "quiet as a dog." Her master went out to find the +man's report exact: Star walked straight up to him, and rubbed her +soft nose confidingly against his sleeve. The mystery explained +itself at a glance: she was on the point of having her first foal, +and, with some strange and pathetic instinct, she bethought herself +of the kind hands whose caresses she had so often rejected, and came +straight to them for help and succour. Her shy and touching +advances were warmly responded to, and in a few minutes the poor +beast was safely housed in the warm shed which then represented the +present row of neat stables long since on that very spot. A warm +mash was eagerly swallowed, and the good-hearted stockman +volunteered to remain up until all should be happily over; but his +courage failed him at the sight of her horrible sufferings, and in +the early dawn he came to rouse up his master, and beg him to come +and see if anything more could be done. There lay Star, all her +fierce spirit quenched, with an appealing look in her large black +eyes, which seemed positively human in their capacity for expressing +suffering. It was many hours before a dead foal was born, and there +is no doubt that if she had been out on the bleak hills, the poor +exhausted young mother must have perished from weakness. She +appeared to understand thoroughly the motive of all that was being +done for her, and submitted with patience to all the remedies. +Gradually, but slowly, her strength returned; and, alas, her evil +nature, tamed by anguish, returned also! Day by day she became +shyer of even the hand which had fed and succoured her; and, as this +is a true chronicle, it must be stated that the very first use Mrs. +Star made of her convalescence was, to kick her nurse on the leg, +break her halter into fragments, and gallop off to the hills with a +loud neigh of defiance. Whenever the topic of feminine ingratitude +came on the carpet at that station, this, which Star had done, used +always to be told as an instance in point. + +Two years later, exactly the same thing happened again. The dreaded +hour of suffering found the wayward beauty once more under the roof +which had sheltered her in her former time of trial, and once more +she rested her head in penitence and appeal against her owner's +shoulder. Who could bear malice in the presence of such dreadful +pain? Not Star's owner, certainly. Besides the home resources, a +man on horseback was sent off to fetch a famous veterinary who +chanced to be staying at a neighbouring station, and they both +returned before Star's worst sufferings began. All that skill and +experience could do was done that night; but the morning light found +the poor little grey mare dying from exhaustion, with another dead +foal lying by her side. She only lived a few hours later, in spite +of stimulants and the utmost care, and died gently and peacefully, +with those human hands whose lightest touch she had so flouted, +ministering tenderly to her great needs. The stockman had become so +fond of the wayward beauty, in spite of her ingratitude, that the +only solace he could find for his regret at her early death, lay in +digging a deep grave for her, and carving the emblem of her pretty +name on the rude stake which still marks the spot. + +No account of station pets would be complete without a brief +allusion to my numerous and unsuccessful attempts to rear merino +lambs in the house. It never was of any use advising me to leave +the poor little creatures out on the bleak hill-side, if, in the +course of my rambles after ferns or creepers, I came upon a dead ewe +with her half-starved baby running round and round her. How could I +turn my back on the little orphan, who, instead of bounding off up +the steep hill, used to run confidingly up to me, and poke its black +muzzle into my hand, as if it would say, "Here is a friend at last"? +And then merino lambs are so much prettier than any I have seen in +England. Their snow-white wool is as tightly screwed up in small +curls as any Astracan fleece, and from being of so much more active +a race, they are smaller and more compact than English lambs, and +not so awkward and leggy. A merino lamb of a couple of hours old is +far better fitted to take care of itself up a mountain than a +civilized and helpless lamb of a month old, besides these latter +being so weak about the knees always. I only mention this, not out +of any desire to "blow" about our sheep, but because I want to +account for my tender-heartedness on the subject of desolate +orphans. The ewes scarcely ever died of disease, unless by a rare +chance it happened to be a very old lady whose constitution gave way +at last before a severe winter. We oftenest found that the dead +mother was a fine fat young ewe; who had slipped up on a hill-side +and could not recover herself, but had died of exhaustion and +fatigue from her violent efforts to kick herself up again. If we +chanced to be in time to rescue her by the simple process of setting +her on her legs again, it would be all right, but sometimes the poor +creature had been cold and stiff for hours before we found her, and +her lamb had bleated itself hoarse and hungry, and was as tame as a +pet dog. Now _who_ could turn away from a little helpless thing +like that, who positively leaped into your arms and cuddled itself +up in delight, sucking vigorously away at your glove, or anything +handy? Not I, for one,--though I might as well have left it alone, +so far as its ultimate fate was concerned; but I always hoped for +better luck next time, and carried it off in my arms. + +The first thing to be do be on arrival at home, was to give the +starving little creature a good meal out of a tea-pot, and the next, +to put it to sleep in a box of hay in a warm corner of the kitchen. +What always seemed to me so extraordinary, was that the lambs, one +and all, preserved the most cheerful demeanour, ate and drank and +slept well,--and yet died within a month. Some lingered until quite +four weeks had passed, others succumbed to my treatment in a week. +I varied their food, mixing oatmeal with the milk; some I fed often, +others seldom; to some I gave sugar in the milk, others had new +milk. There was abundance of grass just outside the house for them +to eat, if they could. Some did mumble feebly at it, I remember, +but the mortality continued uninterrupted. It must have been very +ridiculous to a visitor, to see my dear little snowy pets going down +on their front knees before me, and wagging their long tails +furiously the moment the tea-pot was brought out. They were far too +sensible to do this if my hands were empty. Gentle, affectionate +little creatures, they used to be wonderfully well-behaved, though +now and then they would wander through the verandah, and so into my +bedroom, where the drapery of my dressing-table afforded them +endless amusement and occupation. They gnawed and sucked all my +"daisy" fringe, until the first thing that had to be done when a +lamb arrived at the house, was to take off muslins and fringes from +that, the only trimmed table in the house. + +Often and often, of a cold night (for we must remember that New +Zealand lambing used always to come off in winter), we would all +become suddenly aware of a strong smell of burning pervading the +whole house; which, on being traced to its source, was often found +to proceed from the rosette of wool on the forehead of a chilly +lamb. The creature drew nearer and nearer to the genial warmth of +the kitchen fire, until at last it used to lean its brow pensively +against the red hot bars. Hence arose the powerful odour gradually +filling the whole of the little wooden house. Of course I used to +rush to the rescue, and draw my bewildered pet away from the fatal +warmth, but not until it had usually singed the wool off down to the +bone, and there was often a bad burn on its forehead as well. But +still, in spite of stupidity and an insatiable appetite, I always +grieved very sincerely for each of my orphan lambs as it in turn +sank into its early grave. I used to be well laughed at for +attaching any sentiment to an animal which had sunk so disgracefully +low in the money-market as a New Zealand lamb, but the abundant +supply of my little pets never made it easier for me to lose the +particular one which I had set my heart on rearing. It certainly +did afford me some comfort to hear that merino lambs had always been +difficult, if not impossible to bring up, like so many "pups," by +hand; and among all the statistics I carefully collected, I could +only find one well-authenticated instance of a foundling having been +reared indoors. My informant tried to comfort me by tales of the +tyranny that stout and tame sheep exercised over the household which +had sheltered it, but I fear that the stories of its delightful +impudence only made me more anxious to succeed in my own +baby-farming experiments among the lambs. + + + +Chapter XV: A feathered pet. + + +No record of those dear, distant days would be complete without a +short memoir of "Kitty." She was only a grey Dorking hen, but no +heroine in fact or fiction, no Lady Rachel Russell or _Fleurange,_ +ever exceeded Kitty in unswerving devotion to a beloved object, or +rather objects. + +To see Kitty was to admire her, at least as I saw her one beautiful +spring evening in a grassy paddock on the banks of the Horarata. We +had ridden over there to visit our kind and friendly neighbours, the +C---'s; we had enjoyed a delicious cup of tea in the +passion-flower-covered verandah, which looked on the whole range, +from East to West, of the glorious Southern Alps, their shining +white summits sharply cut against our own peculiarly beautiful sky; +we had strolled round the charming, unformal garden, on either +sloping side of a wide creek, and had admired, with just a tinge of +envy, the fruits and flowers, the standard apple and rose trees, the +tangle of fern and creepers, the wealth of the old and new worlds +heaped together in floral profusion; we had done all this, I say, +and very pleasant we had found it. Now we were trying to say +goodbye: not so easy a task, let me tell you, when there are so many +temptations to linger, and when you are greatly pressed to stay. +The last device of our hospitable hostess to keep us consisted in +offering to show me her poultry-yard. Now I was a young beginner in +that line myself, and tormented my ducks and fowls to death by my +incessant care: at least that is the conclusion I have arrived at +since; but at that time, I considered it as necessary to look after +them as if they had been so many children. The consequence was,--as +I pathetically complained to Mrs. C---, that my hens sat furiously +for a week, and then took to lingering outside, where perpetual +feeding was going on, until their eggs grew cold; that my ducks +neglected their offspring and allowed the rats to decimate them, and +that every variety of epidemic and misfortune assailed in turns my +unhappy poultry yard. Kind Mrs. C--- listened as gravely as she +could, hinting _very_ gently, that perhaps I took too much trouble +about them; then, fearing least she might have wounded my feelings, +she hastened to suggest that I should try the introduction of a +different breed. + +As a preliminary step to this reformation, she offered to bestow +upon me one of her best Dorking hens. It was too tempting an offer +to be refused, and I forthwith bestowed my affections on a beautiful +grey pullet, whose dignified carriage and speckled exterior bespoke +her high lineage. "That's Kitty," said Mrs. C---. "I am so glad you +fancy her; she is one of my nicest young hens. We'll catch her for +you in a moment." I must pause to mention here, that it struck me +as being very odd in New Zealand the way in which _every_ creature +has a name, excepting always the poor sheep. If one sees a cock +strutting proudly outside a shepherd's door; you are sure to hear it +is either Nelson or Wellington; every hen has a pet name, and +answers to it; so have the ducks and geese,--at least, up-country; +of course, dogs, horses, cows and bullocks, each rejoice in the most +inflated appellations, but I don't remember ever hearing ducks and +fowls answer to their names in any other country. + +But this is only by the way. I gratefully and gladly accepted the +transfer of the fair Kitty, and only wondered how I was to convey +her to her new home, fifteen miles away. Kitty was soon caught, and +carried off into the house to be packed up for her first ride. +Accustomed as I am to ridiculous things happening to me, still I +never felt in so absurd a position as when, having mounted "Helen," +who seemed in a particularly playful mood after a good feed of oats, +Kitty was handed to me neatly tied up in a pillow-case with her +tufted head protruding from a hole in the seam at the side. +Although very anxious to carry her home immediately, my heart died +within me at the prospect of a long gallop on a skittish mare with a +plump Dorking hen tied up in a bag on my lap. + +There was no help for it, however, and I tried to put my bravest +face on the matter. The difficulties commenced at the very point of +departure, for it is not easy to say farewell cordially with your +hands full of reins, whip, and poultry. But it proved comparatively +easy going whilst we only cantered over the plains. It was not +until the first creek had been reached, that I really perceived what +lay before me. Helen distrusted the contents of the bag, and kept +trying to look round and see what it contained; and her fears of +something uncanny might well have been confirmed when she took off +at her first flat jump. Kitty screamed, or shrieked, or whatever +name best expresses her discordant and piercing yells. I more than +suspect I shrieked too, partly at the difficulty of keeping both +Kitty and Helen in any sort of order, and partly at my own +insecurity. No sooner had Helen landed on the other side, than she +fled homewards as if a tin kettle were tied to her tail. The speed +at which we dashed through the fragrant summer air completely took +away Kitty's breath, and the poor creature appeared more dead than +alive by the time I dismounted, trembling myself in every limb for +her safety as well as my own, at the garden gate. + +However, next morning brought a renewed delight in existence to both +Kitty and me, and our night's sleep had made us forget our agitation +and peril. After breakfast I introduced her to the poultry yard, +and she adapted herself to her new home with a tact and good humour +most edifying to behold. Months passed away. Kitty had made +herself a nest in a place, the selection of which did equal honour +to her head and heart, and she gladdened my eyes one fine morning by +appearing with a lovely brood of chicks around her. Who so proud as +the young mother? She exhibited them to me, and after I had duly +admired them, used to carry them off to a nursery of her own, which +she had established among the tussocks just outside the stable door. +Mrs. C--- had impressed upon me that Kitty could be safely trusted +to manage her own affairs. No fear of her dragging her fluffy +babies out among the wet grass too early in the morning, or losing +them among the flax bushes on the hill-side. No: Kitty came of a +race who were model mothers, and was to be left to take care of +herself and her chickens. + +About a week after Kitty had first shown me her large, small family, +a friend of ours arrived unexpectedly to stop the night. Next +morning, when he was going away, he apologised for asking leave to +mount at the stables, saying his led horse was so vicious, and the +one he was riding so gay, that it was quite possible their legs +might find themselves within the verandah, or do some mischief to +the young shrubs which were the pride and joy of my heart. This +gentleman rode beautifully, and I used to like to see the courage +and patience with which he always conquered the most unruly horse. + +"We will come up to the stable and see you mount," I cried, seizing +my hat. Of course every one followed my lead, and it was to the +sound of mingled jeers and compliments that poor Mr. T--- mounted +his fiery steed, and seized hold of the leading rein of his +pack-horse. But this animal had no intention of taking his +departure with propriety or tranquillity: he pranced and shied, +flinging out his heels as he wildly danced round to every point of +the compass, in a circle. Gradually he drew Mr. T--- and his +chestnut a dozen yards away from the stable, and it was just then +that I perceived poor Kitty sitting close under a tussock. It +chanced to be the hour for the chickens' siesta, and they were all +folded away beneath her ample brooding wings. Perhaps the danger +had come too near to be avoided before I perceived it, but at all +events my loud shriek of warning was too late to save the pretty +crouching head from the flourish of the pack-horse's glancing heels. +Swift indeed was the blow; for scarcely ten seconds could have +passed between my first glimpse of poor Kitty's bright black eye +looking out, with such mortal terror in its expression, from beneath +the yellow tuft of grass, and my seeing the horse's heel lay her +head right open. The brave little mother never dreamed of saving +herself at the cost of her nestlings. She crouched as low as +possible, and when the horse had jumped over her I flew to see if +she had escaped. No. There lay my pretty pet, with her wings still +outspread and her chickens unhurt. But she seemed dead: her head +had been actually cut clean open, and I never expected that she +would have lived a moment. Yet she did. I took her at once to the +well hard by, and bound up her split head with my pocket +handkerchief, keeping it well wetted with cold water. Later on I +put forth all the surgical art I possessed, and dressed the wound in +the most scientific manner, nursing poor Kitty tenderly in the +kitchen, and feeding her with my own hands every two hours. She was +for a long time incapable of feeding herself and; even when all +danger was over, required most careful nursing. However, the end of +the story is that, she recovered entirely her bodily health, but her +poor little brain remained clouded for ever. She never took any +more notice of her chickens, who had to be brought up by hand, and +she never mixed again with the society of the poultry-yard. At +night she roosted apart in the coalshed, and she never seemed to +hear my voice or distinguish me from others, though she was +perfectly tame to everybody. Kitty's end was very tragical. She +grew exceedingly fat, and at last, one time when we were all snowed +up and could not afford to be sentimental, my cook laid hold of poor +Kitty, who was moping in her usual corner, and converted her into a +savoury stew without telling me, until I had actually dined off her. +I was very angry; but Eliza only repeated by way of consolation, +"She had no wits, only flesh, consequently she was better in my +stew-pot nor anywhere else, mum, if you'll only look at it calm +like." But it was very hard to be made to eat one's patient, +especially when I was so proud of the way her poor head had healed. + +If anybody wanted to teaze me, they suggested that I had omitted to +replace my dear Kitty's brains before closing that cruel wound in +her skull. + + + +Chapter XVI: Doctoring without a diploma. + + +So many reminiscences come crowding into my mind,--some grave and +others gay,--as I sit down to write these final chapters, that I +hardly know where to begin. + +The most clamorous of the fast-thronging memories, the one which +pushes its way most vividly to the front, is of a little amateur +doctoring of mine; and as my patient luckily did not die of my +remedies, I need not fear that I shall be asked for my diploma. + +Shearing was just over; over only that very evening in fact. We had +been leading a sort of uncomfortable picnic life at the home station +for more than ten days, and had returned to our own pretty little +home up the valley, late on Saturday night, in time for the +supper-dinner I have so often described. It was my doing, that +fortnight's picnic at the home station, and I may as well candidly +confess it was a mistake; although, made, like most mistakes in +life, with good intentions. Our partner had gone to England, our +manager had just left us to set up sheep-farming on his own account, +and all the responsibility of shearing a good many thousand sheep +devolved on F---. And not only the shearing; the flock had to be +carefully draughted, the ewes, wethers, and hoggets, to be branded, +ear-marked, and turned out on their several ranges; the wethers for +home consumption, which consisted of a good-sized flock of many +hundred sheep, turned into the home-paddock,--an enclosure of some +five or six hundred acres,--and various other minute details to be +seen to; the wool to be sent down to Christchurch, and the stores +brought up by the return drays. + +My motives for the plan I formed for us to go over, bag and baggage, +to the home station, the evening before the shearing began, and live +there till it was over, were varied. We will put the most unselfish +first, for the sake of appearances. I knew it would be very hard +work for poor F--- all that time, and I thought it would add to his +fatigue if he had to go backwards and forwards to his own house +every day, getting up at five in the morning and returning late at +night, besides having no comfortable meals. The next motive was +that I wanted very much to see the whole process of shearing, and +all the rest of it, myself; and as it turned out, though I little +dreamed of it at the time, this proved to be my only chance. Every +body tried to dissuade me from carrying out the scheme, by urging +that I should be very uncomfortable; but I did not care in the least +for that, and insisted on being allowed at all events to see how I +liked it. + +Accordingly one evening we set forth: such a ridiculous cavalcade. +I would not hear of riding, for it was only a short two miles walk; +and as we did not start until after our last meal, the sun had +dipped behind Flag-pole's tall peak, and nearly the whole of our +happy valley lay in deep, cool shadow. Besides which, it looked +more like the real thing to walk, and that was half the battle with +me. The "real thing" in this case, though I did not stop to explain +it to myself, must have meant emigrants, Mormons, soldiers on the +march, what you will; any thing which expresses all one's belongings +being packed into a little cart, with a huge tin bath secured on the +top of all. Such a miscellaneous assortment of dry goods as that +cart held! A couple of mattresses (for my courage failed me at the +idea of sleeping on chopped tussocks for a fortnight), a couple of +folding-up arm-chairs, though, as it turned out, one would have been +enough, for poor F--- never sat down from the time he got up until +he went to bed again; a large hamper of provisions, some books, our +clothes, and various little matters which were indispensable if one +had to live in an empty house for a fortnight. I had sent my two +maids over one morning a few days before, with pails and mops and +brushes, and they had given the couple of rooms which we were to +inhabit, a thorough good cleaning and scouring, so my mind was easy +on that point. It would not have answered, for many reasons, to +have encumbered ourselves with these damsels during our stay at the +home station. In the first place, there was really no accommodation +for them; in the next, it would have entailed more luggage than the +little cart could hold; and, finally, we should have been obliged to +leave them behind at the last moment: for only the evening before we +started, a couple of friends arrived, in true New Zealand fashion, +from Christchurch, to pay us a month's visit. It was too late to +alter our plans then, so we told them to, make themselves thoroughly +at home, and took our departure next day in the way I have alluded +to. + +We had plenty of escort as far as the first swamp. When that +treacherous and well-known spot had been reached, everybody suddenly +remembered that they had forgotten something or the other which +obliged them to return directly, so our farewells had to be +exchanged from the centre of a flax bush. The cart meanwhile was +nearly out of sight, so wide a _detour_ had its driver been forced +to make in order to find a place sound enough to bear its weight. +But we caught it up again after we had happily crossed the quagmire +which used always to be my bug-bear, and in due time we made our +appearance, in the gloaming, at the tiny house belonging to the home +station. Early as was the hour, not later than half-past eight, the +place lay silent and still under the balmy summer haze. All the +shearers were fast asleep in the men's hut, whilst every available +nook and corner was filled with the spare hands; the musterers, +branders, yard-keepers, and many others, whose duties were +less-defined. Far down the flat we could dimly discern a white +patch,--the fleecy outlines of the large mob destined to fill the +skillions at day-break to-morrow morning; and, although we could not +see them distinctly, close by, watchful and vigilant all through +that and many subsequent summer nights, Pepper and his two beautiful +colleys kept watch and ward over the sheep. + +Writing in the heavy atmosphere of this vast London world, I look +back upon that, and such evenings as that, with a desperate craving +to breathe once more he delicious air unsoiled by human lungs, and +stirred into fresh fragrance by every summer sigh of those distant +New Zealand valleys. No wonder people were always well in such a +pure, clear, light atmosphere. I try to feel again in fancy the +exquisite enjoyment of merely drawing a deep breath, the thrilling +sensation of health and strength it sent tingling down to your +finger ends. No fleck or film of vapour or miasma could be seen or +smelt, though the day had been burning hot, and, as I have said, +there were plenty of creeks and swamps hard by. Damp is unknown in +those valleys, and we might have lingered bareheaded even after the +heavy dew began to fall, without risk of cold, or fever, or any +other ailment. But we could not afford to linger a moment out of +doors that lovely tempting evening. F--- and the driver of the +cart, who had some important part to take in the morrow's +proceedings (I forget exactly what), soon tossed out my little +stores, which looked very insignificant as they lay in a heap in the +verandah, and departed to see that all was in train for next day's +work. I had no time to enjoy the evening's soft beauty: the beds +had to be made; clothes to be unpacked and hung up; stores must be +arranged on the shelves in the sitting-room,--for the house only +consisted of two small rooms in front, with a wide verandah, and a +sort of lean-to at the back, which was divided into a small kitchen +and store-room. This last was empty. I confess I thought rather +regretfully of my pretty, comfortable, English-looking bed-room at +the other house, with its curtains and carpet, its wardrobes and +looking-glasses, when I found myself surveying the scene of my +completed labours. Two station _bunks_,--i.e., wooden bed-frames of +the simplest and rudest construction, with a sacking bottom,--a +couple of empty boxes, one for a dressing-table and the other for a +wash-stand, a tin basin and a bucket of water, being the +paraphernalia of the latter, whilst some nails behind the door +served to hang our clothes on, such was my station bedroom and all +my own doing too! Certainly it looked uncomfortable enough to +satisfy any one, but I would not have complained of it for the +world, lest I might have been ordered home directly. + +Hard as was my bed that night, I slept soundly, and it appeared only +five minutes before I heard a tremendous noise outside the verandah. +The bleating of hundreds of sheep announced that the mob were slowly +advancing, before a perfect army of men and dogs, up to the sheep +yards. What a din they all made! F--- was wide awake, and up in a +moment. I, anxious to show _why_ I had insisted on coming over, got +up too, and made my way into the little kitchen, where I found a +charming surprise awaiting me in the shape of some faggots of +neatly-stacked wood, cut into exactly, the right lengths for the +American stove; and also a heap of dry Menuka bushes, which make the +best touchwood for lighting fires in the whole world. The tiny +kitchen and stove were both scrupulously clean, and so were my three +saucepans and kettle. This had been, of course, my maids' doing, +but the fuel was a delicate little attention on Pepper's part. How +he blushed and grinned with delight when I thanked him before all +his mates! This was indeed station-life made easy! It did not take +two minutes to light my fire, and in five more I had a delicious cup +of tea and some bread-and-butter all ready for F---. It was nearly +cold, however, by the time I could catch him and make him drink it. +Of course, being a man, instead of saying, "Thank you," or anything +of that sort, he merely remarked, "What nonsense!" but equally of +course, he was very glad to get it, and ate and drank it all up, +returning instantly to his shed. + +After this little episode, I set to work to unpack a little, and +make the sitting-room look the least bit more home-like; then I laid +the cloth for breakfast, put out the pie and potted meat, etc. (no +words can say how heartily tired of pies we both were before the +week was over), and arranged everything for breakfast. Then I +waylaid one of the numerous stray "hands" which hang about a station +at shearing time, and got him to fetch me a couple of buckets of +water as far as the verandah. These I conveyed myself into the +little sleeping-room, and finished my toilette at my leisure: +tidying it all up afterwards. I wonder if any one has any idea what +hot work it is making a bed? So hot, in fact, that I resolved in +future to be wise enough to finish all these domestic occupations +before I had my bath. The worst of getting up so early proved to be +that by nine o'clock I was very tired, and had nothing else to do +for the remainder of the long, noisy day. As for the meals, they +were wretchedly unsociable; for F--- only came in to snatch a +mouthful or two, standing, and it was of little use trying to make +things comfortable for him. I must confess here, what I would not +acknowledge at the time, that I found it a very long and dull visit. +My husband never had time to speak to me, and when he did, it was +only about sheep. I grew weary of living on cold meat, for it was +really too hot to cook; and my servants used to send me over, every +second day, cold fowls or pies; besides, one seemed to live in a +whirl and confusion of dust, and bleating, and barking. After the +day's work was fairly over, F--- used to rush in, seize a big +bath-towel, cry "I am off for a bathe in the creek," and only return +in time for supper and bed. The weather was all that a sheep-farmer +could desire. Bright, sunny, and clear, one lovely summer day +followed another; hot, almost to tropical warmth, without any risk +or fear of sun-stroke or head-ache, and a delicious lightness in the +atmosphere all the time, which merged into a cool bracing air the +moment the sun had slowly travelled behind the high hills to the +westward. + +But all these details, though necessary to make you understand what +I had been doing, are not the story itself, so to that we will hurry +on. The shearing was over; Saturday evening had come, as welcome to +poor imprisoned me as to any one, and the great work of the New +Zealand year had been most successfully accomplished. F--- was in +such good humour that he even deigned to admit that his own comfort +had been somewhat increased by my living at the home station, so I +felt quite rewarded for my many dreary hours. The shearers had been +paid, and were even then picking their way over the hills in little +groups of two and three; some, I grieve to say, bound for the +nearest accommodation-house or wayside inn, and others for the next +station, across the river, where the skillions were full, and +waiting for them to begin on Monday morning. Only half-a-dozen +people, instead of thirty, were left at our place, and there would +not even have been so many if it had not been thought well to keep a +few there until the bale-loft was empty. Generally it was arranged +for the wool-drays to follow each other every two days with a load +down to Christchurch; for the greatest risk a sheep-farmer runs is +from his shed taking fire whilst it is full of bales of wool. This +had happened often enough in the colony, and even in our +neighbourhood, to make us more and more careful every year; and, as +I have said, amongst our precautions, was that of keeping as little +wool as possible in the shed. Most flock-owners waited until the +shearing should be quite over before they carted the wool away; but +in that case, a spark from a pipe, a match carelessly dropped in a +tussock outside, when a nor'-wester was blowing,--and the slight +wooden building would be blazing like a torch, and your year's +income vanishing in the smoke! + +Even at the last moment, when the cart had already started +homewards, with the tin bath balanced once more on the top of the +mattresses and boxes; when the house was empty, and I was waiting, +my hat and jacket on, and flax-stick in hand, eager to set out, a +doubt arose about the expediency of our return home. Some +accidental delay had prevented the dray from arriving in time to +start for Christchurch with the last load, and between two and three +hundred pounds worth of wool still remained in the shed,--packed and +labelled indeed, but neither insured nor protected from the risk of +fire in any way. F--- was very loath to leave them there; but, +yielding to my entreaties, he called Pepper, the head shepherd, and +solemnly gave the wool-shed and its contents over into his charge, +with many and many a caution about fire. Pepper was as trustworthy +and steady a shepherd as any in the colony, and promised to "keep +his weather-eye open," as he phrased it, in nautical slang picked up +from some run-away sailor. + +All the way home F--- said from time to time, anxiously, "I wish the +shed was empty;" but I cheered him up, and told him he was +over-tired and unreasonably nervous, and so forth, but with a great +longing myself for Monday morning to come, and for the dray to take +its load and start. I need not dwell on how delicious it was to +return home, where everything seemed so comfortable and nice, and +the bed felt especially soft and welcome to tired limbs. Early were +our hours, you may be sure, and we slept the sleep of the +hard-worked until between two and three o'clock the next morning. +Then we were roused up by some one knocking loudly against our wide- +open latticed window. + +I was the first to hear the noise, and cried, "Who's there? what is +it?" all in a breath. + +"The wool-shed on fire," murmured F---, in a tone of agonized +conviction. + +"It's you that's wanted, please mum, this moment, over at the home +station!" I heard Pepper say, in impatient tones. + +"It's the wool-shed," repeated F---, more than half asleep, and with +only room for that one idea in his dreamy mind. + +"Nonsense!" I cried, jumping out of bed. "I should not be wanted if +the wool-shed were on fire. Don't you hear Pepper say he wants me?" + +"All right, then," said F---, actually turning over and proposing to +go to sleep again. But there was no more sleep for either of us +that night. Whilst I hastily put on my riding-habit, Pepper told +me, through the window; an incoherent tale of some one being at the +point of death, and wanting me to cure him, and the master to bring +over pen and ink, to make a will, and dying speeches and cold +shivers, all mixed up together in a tangle of words. F--- took some +minutes to understand that it was Fenwick, a gigantic Yorkshireman, +who had been seized with what Pepper would call the "choleraics," +and who, in spite of having swallowed all the mustard and rum and +"pain-killer" left on the premises, grew worse and worse every +moment. "He's dying, safe enough," concluded Pepper, "but he's main +anxious to see you, mum, and the master; and he wants a Bible +brought to swear him, and he's powerful uneasy to make his will." I +knew quite as little of medicine as my husband did of law, but of +course we decided instantly that we ought both to go and see what +could be done in any way to relieve either the body or mind of the +sufferer. + +We said to each other while we were hastily dressing, "How shall we +ever catch the horses? They have all been turned out, of course, as +no one thought they would be wanted until Monday; and who knows +where they have gone to?--miles away, perhaps; and it's pitch dark." +Judge, then, of our delighted surprise, when, on going out into the +verandah, preparatory to starting off to look for our steeds, we +found them standing at the gate, ready saddled and bridled. It +seemed like magic, but the good fairies in this case had been the +two guests to whom I have alluded as having arrived just as we were +starting for our picnic life. They were both "old chums," and +understood the situation instantly. Whilst we were questioning +Pepper (you can hear every word all over a New Zealand house), they +had jumped up, huddled on their clothes, and gone over the brow of +the hill to look for the horses. By great good fortune the whole +mob was found quietly camping in the sheltered valley full of sweet +grass, on its further side. To walk up to my pretty bay mare Helen, +and lay hold of her mane, and then, vaulting on her back, ride the +rest of the mob back into the stockyard, was, even in the deep +darkness of a midsummer night, no difficult task for eyes so +practised to catching horses under all circumstances. So here was +one obstacle suddenly smoothed, and as I hastily collected my few +simple remedies, consisting chiefly of flannel, chlorodyne, and +brandy, I could only trust and pray that poor Fenwick's case might +not be so desperate as Pepper represented it. + +To our impatience, the difficult track, with its swamps and holes, +its creeks to be jumped, and morasses to be avoided, seemed long +indeed; but to judge from the continued profound darkness,--that +inky blackness of the sky which is the immediate forerunner of +daylight,--the dawn could not be far off. How well I remember the +whole scene! F--- tied his white handkerchief on his arm, that +Helen and I might have a faint speck of light by which to guide +ourselves. Pepper rode close to me, pouring into my ears dismal +predictions of Fenwick's end; whilst I, amid all my anxiety, could +only think of the dangers of the track, and whether, in the pitchy +darkness, we should ever get to the home station. The dew fell so +heavily that more than once I thought it must be raining, but those +were only wind-clouds brooding in the great dark vault above us. +More welcome than ever sounded the bark of the dogs, which told us +we had reached the end of our stumbling ride; and the moment their +tongues woke up the silence, a lantern showed a ray of light to +guide us to the hut door. + +I jumped off my horse instantly, and went in. At first I thought my +patient was dead, for he lay, rigid and grey, in his bunk. At a +glance I perceived that nothing could really be done to help him +whilst he was lying on a high shelf, almost out of my reach, in a +small hut filled with bewildered men, who kept offering him from +time to time a "pull" at a particularly good pipe, having previously +poured all the grog they could muster down his throat, or rather +over his pillow (his saddle performed that duty by night), for he +had been unable to swallow for some hours. I remembered that there +were the bedsteads we had used at the house, and also some firewood +still left in the kitchen. Explaining to Pepper how he was to wrap +poor Fenwick in every available blanket in the place, and carry him +across the open space into the parlour, I hastily ran on before, got +some one to help me to drag one of the light frames into the +sitting-room, laced it before the fireplace, and then made up a good +blazing fire on the open hearth. By the time the dry wood was +crackling and sparkling out its cheery welcome, my patient arrived, +and was laid down, blankets and all, on the rude little bedstead, +before the blaze. By its fitful and uncertain light I proceeded to +examine the enormous frame stretched so helplessly before me, +feeling half afraid to touch him at all. F--- was very trying as an +assistant, for he looked on without making any suggestions, and only +said from time to time, "Take care: the man is dead." To my +inexperienced eyes he indeed seemed past all human help. His skin +was icy cold, and as wet as if he had been lying out in the dew. No +flutter of pulse, nor sign of breath, could my trembling efforts +discover; but I fancied there was the least little sign of pulsation +about his heart. Of course I had not the vaguest notion of what was +the matter with the man, for all Pepper could tell me was that +"Fenwick's been powerful bad, you bet." This does not sound a +minute diagnosis to go on, and the only remedies which presented +themselves to my mind were those I had studied as being useful for +the recovery of drowned persons. So to work I set, as if the poor +fellow had just been fished out of the creek; and whenever any one +wanted to teaze me afterwards they would declare I had insisted on +Fenwick's being held up by his heels. But of course that was all +nonsense. What I did really do was this, and a doctor in +Christchurch, whom I afterwards consulted as to my treatment, +assured me, laughingly, that it was "capital." + +I made Pepper and another man both rub the cold clammy body, as hard +as they could with mustard and hot flannel. I got some bottles +filled with hot water (for it did not take five minutes to boil the +kettle) and placed to his icy-cold feet and under his arms, then I +mixed a little very strong and hot brandy and water, to which I +added a few drops of chlorodyne, and gave him a teaspoonful every +five minutes. For the first half-hour there was no sign of life to +be detected, and the same horrible bluish pallor made poor Fenwick's +really handsome face look ghastly in the flickering light. My two +assistants were getting exhausted, and Pepper had more than once +murmured, with the recollection of the past fortnight's work strong +upon him, "Spell, oh!" or else "Shears!" [Note: the shearer's demand +for a few minutes rest] whilst his companion inquired pathetically, +"What was the use of flaying a dead man?" To these hints I paid no +attention, though my damp riding habit was steaming from the heat of +the fire and I felt dreadfully tired; for certainly there seemed to +my eyes a healthier tinge stealing over the rigid features, and it +could not be my fancy which detected a stronger effort to swallow +the last spoonful of brandy. + +I need not go into the details of my jumbled-up remedies; probably I +should bring upon myself serious remonstrances from the Royal Humane +Society, if my treatment of that unhappy man were made public. It +is enough to say that I "exhibited" mustard by the pound and brandy +by the quart, that I roasted him first on one side and then on the +other, that his true skin was rubbed off, that I chlorodyned him +until he slept for nearly a week, and that when he finally recovered +he declared he felt "as if he'd been dead:" "And no wonder," as +Pepper always remarked. The only clue I could get to the cause of +his illness was a shy confession, about a week afterwards, that he +had eaten a few mushrooms. Fenwick's idea of a few of anything was +generally a liberal notion. I questioned him narrowly as to what he +had had for supper the night he was taken ill, and this was his bill +of fare:-- + +"Well, you see, mum, I wasn't rightly hungry: it must have been them +gripses coming on. So I only had a shoulder (of mutton, _bien +entendu_; when Fenwick had really a good appetite he regarded +anything less than a whole leg of a sheep as an insult) that night, +half-a-dozen slap jacks, and a trifle of mushrooms." "How big were +the mushrooms?" I asked. "Oh, they was rather fine ones, mum, I +won't deny: they might have been the bigness of a plate." Now even +supposing them to have been perfectly wholesome, a few dozen +mushrooms of that size, eaten half raw with a whole shoulder of +mutton, are quite enough to my ignorant mind to account for so +severe a fit of the "choleraics." + + + +Chapter XVII: Odds and ends. + + +My nerves had hardly recovered the shock of having the care of such +a huge patient thrust on me; for, seriously speaking, Fenwick took a +good deal of nursing and attention before he got well again, when we +had another night alarm. Our beautiful summer weather was breaking +up; high nor'-westers had blown down the gorges for days, and now a +cold wet gale was coming up in heavy banks of fleecy clouds from the +sou'-west. Everything looked cold and wretched out of doors, but +the sheep-farmers were thankful and pleased. Their "mobs" could +find excellent shelter for themselves, for it takes _very_ bad +weather to hurt a Merino sheep, and the creeks had been running +rather low. "We shall have a splendid autumn after this is over," +said all the squatters gleefully, "with lots of feed: there's +Tyler's creek coming down beautifully." + +So I was fain to be content, though my fowls looked draggled and +wretched, and my pet patch of mignonette became a miniature desert, +its fragrance being all blown and rain-beaten away. Good fires of +lignite and wood made the house cheery, and we went to bed, hoping +for fine weather next day. In the middle of the night everyone was +awakened by a tremendous, echoing noise outside, whilst the frail +wooden house vibrated perceptibly. It could not be caused by the +wind: for, although the rain kept pouring steadily down, the furious +sou'-west gusts had long ago been beaten into a sullen silence by +the descending torrents. For a moment, and half-awake, an old +tropical reminiscence floated through my sleepy, startled mind: "Can +it be an earthquake?" I dreamily wondered. But, no earthquake of my +acquaintance was ever yet so resounding and noisy, for all its +crumbling horror: yet, the house was certainly shaking. "What is +it? What are you doing?" rang in shouts through the little +dwelling, as its dwellers came thronging, one after another, to our +door. Frightened as I was, I can perfectly remember how indignant I +felt, when it became clear to my mind that they all thought _we_ +were making such an uproar. How could we do it, if even we had +wished to get out of our warm beds, and create a disturbance on such +a wild night. + + +"Good gracious! the house is coming down," I cried, as a fresh +shudder ran through the slight framework of, our little wooden home. +"Pray go out, and see what is the matter." Thus urged, F--- opened +a casement on the sheltered side,--if any side could be said to be +sheltered in such weather,--and cautiously put his head out. I +peered over his shoulder, and never can I forget the ridiculous +sight which met our eyes. There, dripping and forlorn, huddled +together under the wide roof of our summer parlour, as the verandah +used to be often called, the whole mob of horses had gathered +themselves. The garden gate chanced to have been left open, and, +evidently under old Jack's' guidance, they had all walked into the +verandah, wandered disconsolately up and down its boarded floor, and +after partaking of a slight refreshment in the shape of my best +creepers, had proceeded to make themselves at home by rubbing their +wet sides against the pillars and the wooden sides of the house +itself. + +No wonder the noise had aroused us all. Ironshod hoofs clattering +up and down a boarded verandah is riot a silent performance; and +Jack was so cool and impudent about it, positively refusing to stir +from the sheltered corner by the silver-pheasants' aviary, which he +had chosen for himself. The other horses evidently felt they were +intruders, and were glad enough, on the flapping of a handkerchief, +to hurry out of their impromptu stables, making the best of their +way through the narrow garden gate, and so out upon the bleak hills +again. But Jack's conduct was very trying; he found himself +perfectly comfortable, and evidently intended to remain so; neither +for wishing nor coaxing, for fair words nor foul, would he stir. It +seemed so horrid to have to dress and go out in such a downpour of +rain, that we weakly deliberated on the expediency of letting the +cunning old stock-horse remain; but fortunately, at that moment he +began to scratch his ear with his hind foot, waking up a thousand +echoes against the side of the house as he did so, and making the +pictures dance again on the canvas and paper walls. "This will +never do," cried we all, desperately: "he sure must be taken to the +stable or he'll come back again." That was exactly what Jack meant +and wanted: so to the stable he went, under poor shivering Mr. U---'s +guidance, and the old rogue spent a dry, warm night under its roof. + +It was the more absurd Jack pretending to be afraid of a wet night, +when he had walked many and many a weary mile over the rough +mountain passes towards the West-Coast, with a heavy pack on his +back and in all sorts of weather. A tradition existed in our +neighbourhood that Jack had once been met crossing the Amuri Downs +with a small barrel-organ, an American cooking stove, and a sow with +a litter of young ones, all packed on his back, "and stepping out +bravely under them all," as my informant added. But I cannot vouch +for the truth of the items of this load. Jack's fame as a +stock-horse, as well as a pack-horse, stood high in the Malvern +Hills, but his conduct in the shafts was eccentric, to say the least +of it. He could not bear to be guided by his driver, and was always +squinting over his blinkers in the most ridiculous manner. If he +perceived a mob of cattle or horses on a distant flat, he would set +off to have a look at them and determine whether they were strangers +or friends, dragging the gig after him "over bank, bush, and scaur." + +Once when we were in great despair for a cart-horse, Jack was +elected to the post, but long before we had come to the journey's +end we regretted our choice. It was during the first summer of my +life in the Malvern Hills, and whilst the nor'-westers were still +steadily setting their breezy faces against such a new fangled idea +as a lawn. I had wearied of sowing grass seed at, a guinea a bag, +long before those extremely rude zephyrs got tired of blowing it all +out of the ground. There was my beautiful set of croquet, fresh +from Jacques, lying idle in its box in the verandah, and there was +my charming friend, Alice S---, longing for a game of croquet. When +pretty young ladies wish for anything very much, and the house is +full of gentlemen, it goes hard, but that they get the desire of +their innocent hearts. So it was in this case. One fine afternoon +Alice wandered into the verandah and peeped for the hundredth time +into the box. "What beautiful things," she sighed, "and how hard it +is we can't have a game." "I know a patch of self-sown grass," sang +one of the party, "whereon we might play a game." "Where: oh, +where?" we asked, in eager chorus. "About two miles from this, near +a deserted shepherd's hut; it is as thick and soft as green velvet, +and the sheep keep it quite short." "Is the ground level?" we +inquired. "As flat as this table," was the satisfactory answer. + +Of course we wanted to start immediately, but how were we to get the +croquet things there, to say nothing of the delightful excuse for +tea out of doors which immediately presented itself to my +ever-thirsty mind. A dray was suggested (carriages we had none; +there being no roads for them if we had possessed such vehicles); +but alas, and alas! the proper dray and driver and horse were all +away, on an expedition up a distant gulley getting out some +brush-wood for fires. "There's Jack," some one said, doubtfully. +He had never even drawn a dray in his life, so far as we knew, but +at the same time we felt sure that when once Jack understood what +was required of him, he would do his best to help us to get to our +croquet ground. So we flew off to our different duties. Alice to +see that the balls, hoops, and mallets were all right in numbers and +colours, &c.; I to pack a large open basket with the materials for +my favourite form of dissipation--an out-door tea; and the gentlemen +to catch Jack and harness him into the cart. + +Peals of laughter announced the setting forth of the expedition; and +no wonder! Inside the dray, which was a very light and crazy old +affair, was seated Alice on an empty flour-sack; by her side I +crouched on an old sugar bag, one of my arms keeping tight hold of +my beloved tea-basket with its jingling contents, whilst the other +was desperately clutching at the side of the dray. On a board +across the front three gentlemen were perched, each wanting to +drive, exactly like so many small children in a goat carriage, and +like them, one holding the reins, the other the whip, and the third +giving good advice. In the shafts stood poor shaggy old Jack, +looking over his blinkers as much as to say, "What do you want me to +do now?" Our good humoured and stalwart cadet Mr. U---, walked +backwards, holding out a carrot and calling Jack to come and eat it. + +In this extraordinary fashion we proceeded down the flat for two or +three hundred yards, one carrot succeeding the other in Jack's jaws +rapidly. Mr. U--- was just beginning to say "Look here: don't you +think we ought to take turns at this?" when Jack caught sight of a +creek right before him. He only knew of one way of crossing such +obstacles, and that was to jump them. No one calculated on the +sudden rush and high bound into the air with which he triumphantly +cleared the water; knocking Mr. U--- over, and scattering his three +drivers like summer leaves on the track. As for Alice and me, the +inside passengers, we found the sensation of jumping a creek in a +dray most unpleasant. All the croquet balls leapt wildly up into +the air to fall like a wooden hailstorm around us. The mallets and +hoops bruised us from our head to our feet; and the contents of my +basket were utterly ruined. Not only had my tea-cups and saucers +come together in one grand smash, but the kettle broke the bottle of +cream, which in its turn absorbed all the sugar. Jack looked coolly +round at us with an air of mild satisfaction, as if he thought he +had done something very clever, whilst our shrieks were rending the +air. + +What a merry, light-hearted time of one's life was that! We all had +to work hard, and our amusements were so simple and Arcadian that I +often wonder if they really did amuse us so much as we thought they +did at the moment. Let all New Zealanders who doubt this, look into +those perhaps closed chapters of their lives, and as memory turns +over the leaves one by one, and pictures like the sketches I try to +reproduce in pen and ink, grow into distinctness out of the dim +past, it will indeed "surprise me very much," if they do not say, as +I do,--my pleasant task ended,--"Ah, those were happy days indeed!" + + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Station Amusements, by Lady Barker + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STATION AMUSEMENTS *** + +This file should be named stnms10.txt or stnms10.zip +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, stnms11.txt +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, stnms10a.txt + +Produced by P J Riddick + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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