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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 59381 ***
+
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+
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+Transcribers Note
+
+Text emphasis denoted as _Italics_ and =Bold=.
+
+
+
+
+SIMPLE PLUMBING REPAIRS
+
+for the Home and Farmstead
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+Farmers' Bulletin No. 2202
+
+U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                         Page
+
+  Repairing water faucets and valves        1
+  Frostproof hydrants                       4
+  Repairing leaks in pipes and tanks        5
+    Pipes                                   5
+    Tanks                                   7
+  Water hammer                              8
+  Frozen water pipes                        8
+    Preventing freezing                     8
+    Thawing                                 8
+  Repairing water closets                   9
+    Flushing mechanism                      9
+    Bowl removal                           10
+    Tank "sweating"                        12
+  Clearing clogged drains                  12
+    Fixture and floor drains               12
+    Outside drains                         13
+  Tools and spare parts                    13
+  Emergencies                              14
+
+
+=Prepared by
+
+Northeastern Region
+
+Agricultural Research Service=
+
+
+
+This bulletin supersedes Farmers' Bulletin 1460, "Simple Plumbing
+Repairs in the Home."
+
+
+=Washington, D.C.=
+
+=Revised December 1972=
+
+=For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government
+Printing: Office, Washington, D.C. 20402 - Price 15 cents Stock Number
+0100-02684=
+
+
+
+
+SIMPLE PLUMBING REPAIRS
+
+for the Home and Farmstead
+
+
+
+You can save money and avoid delays by making minor plumbing repairs
+yourself.
+
+Jobs that a farmer or homeowner can do with a few basic tools include:
+
+  Repairing water faucets and valves.
+
+  Repairing leaks in pipes and tanks.
+
+  Thawing frozen pipes.
+
+  Repairing water closets.
+
+  Cleaning clogged drains.
+
+Extensive plumbing repairs or alterations in the plumbing system
+usually require authorization from local authorities and possibly
+inspection of the completed work. Therefore such work should be done by
+a qualified or licensed plumber.
+
+
+
+REPAIRING WATER FAUCETS AND VALVES
+
+Faucets and globe valves, the type of shutoff valves commonly used
+in home water systems, are very similar in construction (fig. 1) and
+repair instructions given below apply to both. Your faucets or valves
+may differ somewhat in general design from the one shown in figure 1,
+because both faucets and valves come in a wide variety of styles.
+
+Mixing faucets, which are found on sinks, laundry trays, and bathtubs,
+are actually two separate units with a common spout. Each unit is
+independently repaired.
+
+Dripping faucets are the most common plumbing problem. Normally a new
+washer is all that is required. If water leaks around the stem, either
+the packing is loose or needs replacing. To repair the faucet, first
+shut off the water at the shutoff valve nearest the particular faucet.
+
+Disassemble the faucet by removing the handle, packing nut, packing,
+and stem in that order. You may have to set the handle back on the stem
+and use it to unscrew and remove the stem.
+
+Remove the screw and worn washer from the stem. Clean the washer cup
+and install a new washer of the proper size and type.
+
+Reassemble the faucet. Handles of mixing faucets should be in matched
+positions.
+
+If a washer requires frequent replacement, it may be the wrong type or
+the seat may be rough and scoring the washer. Flat washers are used
+on seats having a crown or round ridge for the washer seat. Tapered
+or rounded washers are used with tapered seats. These seats may be
+replaced if worn or damaged.
+
+Replaceable seats have either a square or hex shaped water passage
+for the seat removal tool. Seat dressing tools are available for
+non-replaceable seats.
+
+Occasionally a faucet will be noisy when water is flowing. This may
+be due to a loose washer or worn threads on the stem and receiver,
+permitting the stem to vibrate or chatter. Pressing down on the handle
+will stop stem vibration but will not affect a loose washer.
+
+[Illustration: _Figure 1._--Globe type angle valve. Faucets are similar
+in construction.]
+
+Replacement stems are available; however, if the receiving threads are
+worn excessively a new stem would not eliminate the problem completely.
+In some faucets it is possible to replace the stem receiver, the stem,
+and the seat, thus restoring all normal wearing parts within the faucet.
+
+Several new faucet designs aimed at easier operation, eliminating drip,
+and promoting long service life, are on the market. Instructions for
+repair may be obtained from dealers.
+
+If a shower head drips, the supply valve has not been fully closed, or
+the valve needs repair.
+
+After extended use and several repairs, some valves will no longer give
+tight shutoff and must be replaced. When this becomes necessary, it
+may be advisable to upgrade the quality with equipment having better
+flow characteristics and longer-life design and materials. In some
+cases, ball valves will deliver more water than globe valves. Some
+globe valves deliver more flow than others for identical pipe sizes.
+Y-pattern globe valves, in straight runs of pipe, have better flow
+characteristics than straight stop valves. Figure 2 shows the features
+of different types of valves.
+
+[Illustration: _Figure 2._--Different types of valves: _A_, Glove
+valve; note large passages of water. _B_, Y-pattern globe valve; the
+flow is almost straight. _C_, Ball valve, straight flow; some makes are
+available with the port in the ball the same diameter as the pipe.]
+
+
+PRECAUTIONS
+
+
+Polluted water or sewage may carry such diseases as typhoid fever and
+amoebic dysentery. If you do your own plumbing work, be sure that--
+
+  There are no leaks in drainpipes through which sewage or sewage gases
+    can escape.
+
+  There are no cross connections between piping carrying water from
+    different sources unless there can be reasonable certainty that all
+    sources are safe and will remain safe.
+
+  There can be no back siphonage of water from plumbing fixtures or
+    other containers into the water-supply system.
+
+Once a pipe has become polluted, it may be difficult to free it of
+the pollution. For this reason, building codes do not permit the use
+of second-hand pipe. All initial piping and parts and subsequent
+replacements should be new.
+
+Since a plumbing system will require service from time to time,
+shutoff valves should be installed at strategic locations so that
+an affected portion can be isolated (water flow to it cut off) with
+minimum disturbance to service in the rest of the system. Shutoff
+valves are usually provided on the water closet supply line, on the
+hot- and cold-water supply line to each sink, tub, and lavatory, and on
+the water heater supply line. Drain valves are usually installed for
+water-supply piping systems and for hot-water storage tanks.
+
+A pressure-relief valve should be installed for the water heater
+storage tank to relieve pressure buildup in case of overheating.
+
+[Illustration: _Figure 3._--Frostproof hydrant; _A_, Closed; _B_,
+opened. As soon as the hydrant is closed, water left in the riser
+drains out the drain tube as shown in _A_. This prevents water from
+freezing in the hydrant in cold weather.]
+
+
+
+
+FROSTPROOF HYDRANTS
+
+
+Frostproof hydrants are basically faucets, although they may differ
+somewhat in design from ordinary faucets.
+
+Two important features of a frostproof hydrant are: (1) The valve is
+installed under ground--below the frostline--to prevent freezing, and
+(2) the valve is designed to drain the water from the hydrant when the
+valve is closed.
+
+Figure 3 shows one type of frostproof hydrant. It works as follows:
+When the handle is raised, the piston rises, opening the valve. Water
+flows from the supply pipe into the cylinder, up through the riser,
+and out the spout. When the handle is pushed down, the piston goes
+down, closing the valve and stopping the flow of water. Water left in
+the hydrant flows out the drain tube into a small gravel-filled dry
+well or drain pit.
+
+[Illustration: _Figure 4._--Vacuum breaker arrangement for outside hose
+hydrant.]
+
+As with ordinary faucets, leakage will probably be the most common
+trouble encountered with frostproof hydrants. Worn packing, gaskets,
+and washers can cause leakage. Disassemble the hydrant as necessary to
+replace or repair these and other parts.
+
+Frostproof yard hydrants having buried drains can be health hazards.
+The vacuum created by water flowing from the hydrant may draw in
+contaminated water standing above the hydrant drain level. Such
+hydrants should be used only where positive drainage can be provided.
+
+Frostproof wall hydrants (fig. 4) are the preferred type. For servicing
+sprayers using hazardous chemicals, hydrants having backflow protection
+should be used (fig. 5).
+
+
+
+
+REPAIRING LEAKS IN PIPES AND TANKS
+
+
+Pipes
+
+Leaks in pipes usually result from corrosion or from damage to the
+pipe. Pipes may be damaged by freezing, by vibration caused by
+machinery operating nearby, by water hammer, or by animals bumping into
+the pipe. (Water hammer is discussed on P. 8)
+
+[Illustration: _Figure 5._--Protected wall hydrant suitable for filling
+agricultural sprayers.]
+
+_Corrosion_
+
+Occasionally waters are encountered that corrode metal pipe and tubing.
+(Some acid soils also corrode metal pipe and tubing.)
+
+The corrosion usually occurs, in varying degrees, along the entire
+length of pipe rather than at some particular point. An exception would
+be where dissimilar metals, such as copper and steel, are joined.
+
+Treatment of the water may solve the problem of corrosion.[1]
+Otherwise, you may have to replace the piping with a type made of
+material that will be less subject to the corrosive action of the water.
+
+[Footnote 1: For information about water treatment, see FB 2248,
+"Treating Farmstead and Rural Home Water Systems." You can get a
+free copy from your county agricultural agent or write the Office of
+Information, U.S. Department of Agriculture, Washington, D.C. 20250.
+Include your ZIP Code in your return address.]
+
+It is good practice to get a chemical analysis of the water before
+selecting materials for a plumbing system. Your State college or
+university may be equipped to make an analysis; if not, you can have it
+done by a private laboratory.
+
+_Repairing Leaks_
+
+Pipes that are split by hard freezing must be replaced.
+
+A leak at a threaded connection can often be stopped by unscrewing the
+fitting and applying a pipe joint compound that will seal the joint
+when the fitting is screwed back together.
+
+Small leaks in a pipe can often be repaired with a rubber patch and
+metal clamp or sleeve. This must be considered as an emergency repair
+job and should be followed by permanent repair as soon as practicable.
+
+Large leaks in a pipe may require cutting out the damaged section and
+installing a new piece of pipe. At least one union will be required
+unless the leak is near the end of the pipe. You can make a temporary
+repair with plastic or rubber tubing. The tubing must be strong enough
+to withstand the normal water pressure in the pipe. It should be
+slipped over the open ends of the piping and fastened with pipe clamps
+or several turns of wire.
+
+Vibration sometimes breaks solder joints in copper tubing, causing
+leaks. If the joint is accessible, clean and resolder it. The tubing
+must be dry before it can be heated to soldering temperature. Leaks in
+places not readily accessible usually require the services of a plumber
+and sometimes of both a plumber and a carpenter.
+
+
+Tanks
+
+Leaks in tanks are usually caused by corrosion. Sometimes, a safety
+valve may fail to open and the pressure developed will spring a leak.
+
+While a leak may occur at only one place in the tank wall, the wall may
+also be corroded thin in other places. Therefore, any repair should be
+considered as temporary, and the tank should be replaced as soon as
+possible.
+
+A leak can be temporarily repaired with a toggle bolt, rubber gasket,
+and brass washer, as shown in figure 6. You may have to drill or ream
+the hole larger to insert the toggle bolt. Draw the bolt up tight to
+compress the rubber gasket against the tank wall.
+
+[Illustration: _Figure 6._--Closing a hole in a tank: _A_, The link
+of the toggle bolt is passed through the hole in the tank (hole is
+enlarged if necessary). _B_, Side view of tank edge (nut is drawn up
+tightly to compress washer and gasket against tank). _C_, Outside view
+of completed repair.]
+
+
+
+
+WATER HAMMER
+
+
+Water hammer sometimes occurs when a faucet is suddenly closed. When
+the flow of water is suddenly stopped, its kinetic energy is expended
+against the walls of the piping. This causes the piping to vibrate, and
+leaks or other damage may result.
+
+Water hammer may be prevented or its severity reduced by installing an
+air chamber just ahead of the faucet. The air chamber may be a piece of
+air-filled pipe or tubing, about 2 feet long, extending vertically from
+the pipe. It must be airtight. Commercial devices designed to prevent
+water hammer are also available.
+
+An air chamber requires occasional replenishing of the air to prevent
+it from becoming water-logged--that is, full of water instead of air.
+
+A properly operating hydropneumatic tank, such as the type used in
+individual water systems, serves as an air chamber, preventing or
+reducing water hammer.
+
+
+
+
+FROZEN WATER PIPES
+
+
+In cold weather, water may freeze in underground pipes laid above the
+frostline or in pipes in unheated buildings, in open crawl spaces under
+buildings, or in outside walls.
+
+When water freezes it expands. Unless a pipe can also expand, it may
+rupture when the water freezes. Iron pipe and steel pipe do not expand
+appreciably. Copper pipe will stretch some, but does not resume its
+original dimensions when thawed out; repeated freezings will cause it
+to fail eventually. Flexible plastic tubing can stand repeated freezes,
+but it is good practice to prevent it from freezing.
+
+
+Preventing Freezing
+
+Pipes may be insulated to prevent freezing, but this is not a
+completely dependable method. Insulation does not stop the loss of heat
+from the pipe--merely slows it down--and the water may freeze if it
+stands in the pipe long enough at below-freezing temperature. Also, if
+the insulation becomes wet, it may lose its effectiveness.
+
+Electric heating cable can be used to prevent pipes from freezing. The
+cable should be wrapped around the pipe and covered with insulation.
+
+
+Thawing
+
+Use of electric heating cable is a good method of thawing frozen pipe,
+because the entire heated length of the pipe is thawed at one time.
+
+Thawing pipe with a blowtorch can be dangerous. The water may get hot
+enough at the point where the torch is applied to generate sufficient
+steam under pressure to rupture the pipe. Steam from the break could
+severely scald you.
+
+Thawing pipe with hot water is safer than thawing with a blowtorch.
+One method is to cover the pipe with rags and then pour the hot water
+over the rags.
+
+When thawing pipe with a blowtorch, hot water, or similar methods, open
+a faucet and start thawing at that point. The open faucet will permit
+steam to escape, thus reducing the chance of the buildup of dangerous
+pressure. Do not allow the steam to condense and refreeze before it
+reaches the faucet.
+
+Underground metal pipes can be thawed by passing a low-voltage electric
+current through them. The current will heat the entire length of pipe
+through which it passes. Both ends of the pipe must be open to prevent
+the buildup of steam pressure.
+
+CAUTION: This method of thawing frozen pipe can be dangerous and should
+be done by an experienced person only. It cannot be used to thaw
+plastic tubing or other non-electricity-conducting pipe or tubing.
+
+
+
+
+REPAIRING WATER CLOSETS
+
+
+Water closets (commonly called toilets) vary in general design and in
+the design of the flushing mechanism. But they are enough alike that
+general repair instructions can suffice for all designs.
+
+
+Flushing Mechanism
+
+Figure 7 shows a common type of flushing mechanism. Parts that usually
+require repair are the flush valve, the intake (float) valve, and the
+float ball.
+
+In areas of corrosive water, the usual copper flushing mechanism may
+deteriorate in a comparatively short time. In such cases, it may be
+advisable to replace the corroded parts with plastic parts. You can
+even buy plastic float balls.
+
+_Flush Valve_
+
+The rubber ball of the flush valve may get soft or out of shape and
+fail to seat properly. This causes the valve to leak. Unscrew the ball
+from the lift wire and install a new one.
+
+The trip lever or lift wire may corrode and fail to work smoothly,
+or the lift wire may bind in the guides. Disassemble and clean off
+corrosion or replace parts as necessary.
+
+Most plumbing codes require a cutoff valve in the supply line to the
+flush tank, which makes it unnecessary to close down the whole system
+(fig. 7). If this valve was not installed, you can stop the flow of
+water by propping up the float with a piece of wood. Be careful not to
+bend the float rod out of alignment.
+
+_Intake (Float) Valve_
+
+A worn plunger washer in the supply valve will cause the valve to leak.
+To replace the washer--
+
+  Shut off the water and drain the tank.
+
+  Unscrew the two thumb-screws that hold the levers and push out the
+    levers.
+
+  Lift out the plunger, unscrew the cup on the bottom, and insert a new
+    washer. The washer is made of material such as rubber or leather.
+
+  Examine the washer seat. If nicked or rough, it may need refacing.
+
+If the float-valve assembly is badly corroded, replace it.
+
+[Illustration: _Figure 7._--Water closet (toilet) flush tank.]
+
+_Float Ball_
+
+The float ball may develop a leak and fail to rise to the proper
+position. (Correct water level is about 1 inch below the top of the
+overflow tube or enough to give a good flush.) If the ball fails to
+rise, the intake valve will remain open and water will continue to
+flow. Brass float balls can sometimes be drained and the leak soldered.
+Other types must be replaced. When working on the float ball, be
+careful to keep the rod aliened so that the ball will float freely and
+close the valve properly.
+
+
+Bowl Removal
+
+An obstruction in the water closet trap or leakage around the bottom
+of the water-closet bowl may require removal of the bowl. Follow this
+procedure:
+
+  Shut off the water.
+
+  Empty the tank and bowl by siphoning or sponging out the water.
+
+  Disconnect the water pipes to the tank (see fig. 7).
+
+  Disconnect the tank from the bowl if the water closet is a two-piece
+    unit. Set the tank where it cannot be damaged. Handle tank and bowl
+    carefully; they are made of vitreous china or porcelain and are
+    easily chipped or broken.
+
+  Remove the seat and cover from the bowl.
+
+  Carefully pry loose the bolt covers and remove the bolts holding the
+    bowl to the floor flange (fig. 8). Jar the bowl enough to break the
+    seal at the bottom. Set the bowl upside down on something that will
+    not chip or break it.
+
+  Remove the obstruction from the discharge opening.
+
+  Place a new wax seal around the bowl horn and press it into
+    place. A wax seal (or gasket) may be obtained from hardware or
+    plumbing-supply stores.
+
+  Set the bowl in place and press it down firmly. Install the bolts
+    that hold it to the floor flange. Draw the bolts up snugly, but not
+    too tight because the bowl may break. The bowl must be level. Keep
+    a carpenter's level on it while drawing up the bolts. If the house
+    has settled, leaving the floor sloping, it may be necessary to use
+    shims to make the bowl set level. Replace the bolt covers.
+
+  Install the tank and connect the water pipes to it. It is advisable
+    to replace all gaskets, after first cleaning the surfaces
+    thoroughly.
+
+  Test for leaks by flushing a few times.
+
+  Install the seat and cover.
+
+[Illustration: _Figure 8._--Connection of water closet to floor and
+soil pipe.]
+
+Tank "Sweating"
+
+When cold water enters a water closet tank, it may chill the tank
+enough to cause "sweating" (condensation of atmospheric moisture on the
+outer surface of the tank). This can be prevented by insulating the
+tank to keep the temperature of the outer surface above the dew point
+temperature of surrounding air. Insulating jackets or liners that fit
+inside water-closet tanks and serve to keep the outer surface warm are
+available from plumbing-supply dealers.
+
+
+
+
+CLEARING CLOGGED DRAINS
+
+
+Drains may become clogged by objects dropped into them or by
+accumulations of grease, dirt, or other matter.
+
+
+Fixture and Floor Drains
+
+If the obstruction is in a fixture trap, usually the trap can be
+removed and cleared. If the obstruction is elsewhere in the pipe other
+means must be used.
+
+Cleanout augers--long, flexible, steel cables commonly called
+"snakes"--may be run down drainpipes to break up obstructions or to
+hook onto and pull out objects. Augers are made in various lengths and
+diameters and are available at hardware and plumbing-supply stores. (In
+some cases, you may have to call a plumber, who will probably have a
+power-driven auger.)
+
+Small obstructions can sometimes be forced down or drawn up by use of
+an ordinary rubber force cup (plunger or "plumber's friend").
+
+Grease and soap clinging to a pipe can sometimes be removed by flushing
+with hot water. Lye or lye mixed with a small amount of aluminum
+shavings may also be used. When water is added to the mixture, the
+violent gas-forming reaction and production of heat that takes place
+loosens the grease and soap so that they can be flushed away. Use cold
+water only. Chemical cleaners should not be used in pipes that are
+completely stopped up, because they must be brought into direct contact
+with the stoppage to be effective. Handle the material with extreme
+care and follow directions on the container. If lye spills on the hands
+or clothing, wash with cold water immediately. If any gets into the
+eyes, flush with cold water and call a doctor.
+
+Sand, dirt, or clothing lint sometimes clogs floor drains. Remove the
+strainer and ladle out as much of the sediment as possible. You may
+have to carefully chip away the concrete around the strainer to free
+it. Flush the drain with clean water.
+
+When drains have become partially clogged due to lack of water to
+transport all solids through them, large buckets or other containers
+should be used to flush them. Water should be poured fast enough to
+nearly fill the drain.
+
+Occasional flushing of floor drains may prevent clogging.
+
+=CAUTION: Augers, rubber force cups, and other tools used in direct
+contact with sewage are subject to contamination. Do not later use them
+for work on your potable water supply system unless they have been
+properly sterilized.=
+
+
+Outside Drains
+
+Roots growing through cracks or defective joints sometimes clog outside
+drains or sewers. You can clear the stoppage temporarily by using a
+root-cutting tool. However, to prevent future trouble, you should
+re-lay the defective portion of the line, using sound pipe and making
+sure that all joints are watertight.[2]
+
+[Footnote 2: For information on laying sewers, see Agriculture
+Information Bulletin 274, "Farmstead Sewage and Refuse Disposal."
+For a free copy, send a post card to the Office of Information, U.S.
+Department of Agriculture, Washington, D.C. 20250. Include your ZIP
+Code in your return address.]
+
+If possible, sewer lines should be laid out of the reach of roots. But
+if this is impossible or impracticable, consider using impregnated
+fiber pipe which tends to repel roots.
+
+
+
+
+TOOLS AND SPARE PARTS
+
+
+Basic tools that you should have on hand to make simple plumbing
+repairs include:
+
+  Wrenches, including pipe wrenches, in a range of sizes to fit the
+    pipe, fittings, fixtures, equipment, and appliances in the system.
+
+  Screwdrivers in a range of sizes to fit the faucets, valves, and
+    other parts of the system.
+
+  Ball peen hammer or a 12- or 16-ounce clawhammer.
+
+  Rubber force cup (plunger or "plumber's friend").
+
+  Cold chisel and center punch.
+
+  Cleanout auger ("snake").
+
+  Friction tape.
+
+  Adjustable pliers.
+
+Additional tools required for more extensive plumbing repairs include:
+
+  Pipe vise.
+
+  Set of pipe threading dies and stocks.
+
+  Hacksaw and blades (blades should have 32 teeth per inch).
+
+  Pipe cutter, roller type.
+
+  Tapered reamer or half-round file.
+
+  Carpenter's brace.
+
+  Set of wood bits.
+
+  Gasoline blowtorch.
+
+  Lead pot and ladle.
+
+  Calking tools.
+
+  Copper tube cutter with reamer (if you have copper tubing).
+
+Always use the proper size wrench or screwdriver. Do not use pipe
+wrenches on nuts with flat surfaces; use an adjustable or open-end
+wrench. Do not use pipe wrenches on polished-surface tubings or
+fittings, such as found on plumbing fixtures; use a strap wrench. Tight
+nuts or fittings can sometimes be loosened by tapping lightly with a
+hammer or mallet.
+
+It should not be necessary to stock a large number of spare parts. Past
+plumbing troubles may give some indication as to the kind of parts most
+likely to be needed. Spare parts should include:
+
+ Faucet washers and packing.
+
+ One or two lengths of the most common type and size of piping in the
+ plumbing system.
+
+ Several unions and gaskets or unions with ground surfaces.
+
+ Several couplings and elbows.
+
+ A few feet of pipe strap.
+
+ An extra hose connection.
+
+
+
+
+EMERGENCIES
+
+
+Grouped below are emergencies that may occur and the action to take.
+The name, address, and phone number of a plumber who offers 24-hour
+service should be posted in a conspicuous place.
+
+_Burst pipe or tank._--Immediately cut off the flow of water by closing
+the shutoff valve nearest to the break. Then arrange for repair.
+
+_Water closet overflow._--Do not use water closet until back in working
+order. Check for and remove stoppage in closet bowl outlet, drain line
+from closet to sewer, or sewer or septic tank. If stoppage is due to
+root entry into pipe, repair of pipe at that point is recommended.
+
+_Rumbling noise in hot water tank._--This is likely a sign of
+overheating which could lead to the development of explosive pressure
+(Another indication of overheating is hot water backing up in the
+cold-water supply pipe.) Cut off the burner immediately. Be sure that
+the pressure-relief valve is operative. Then check (with a thermometer)
+the temperature of the water at the nearest outlet. If above that
+for which the gage is set, check the thermostat that controls burner
+cutoff. If you cannot correct the trouble, call a plumber.
+
+_Cold house._--If the heating system fails (or if you close the house
+and turn off the heat) when there is a chance of subfreezing weather,
+completely drain the plumbing system. A drain valve is usually provided
+at the low point of the water supply piping for this purpose. A pump,
+storage tank, hot-water tank, water closet tank, water-treatment
+apparatus, and other water-system appliances or accessories should also
+be drained. Put antifreeze in all fixture and drain traps.
+
+Hot-water and steam heating systems should also be drained when the
+house temperature may drop below freezing.
+
+
+U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1972 O-478-903
+
+
+Transcriber Note
+
+Produced from material made available from the Internet Archive
+and is placed in the Public Domain.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of USDA Farmers' Bulletin No. 2202:
+Simple Plumbing for the Home, by Anonymous
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 59381 ***