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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of On Horseback Through Asia Minor, Volume 1
+of 2, by Fred Burnaby
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
+most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
+whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
+of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
+www.gutenberg.org.  If you are not located in the United States, you'll
+have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using
+this ebook.
+
+
+
+Title: On Horseback Through Asia Minor, Volume 1 of 2
+
+Author: Fred Burnaby
+
+Release Date: January 25, 2019 [EBook #58768]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note:
+
+  Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have
+  been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.
+
+  Italic text is denoted by _underscores_.
+
+  The Errata listed at the end of the volume have been corrected in
+  the text.
+
+  Footnote 10 is missing.
+
+  This volume contains references to Volume I. of this work. It can be
+  found at
+    http://www.gutenberg.org/files/58738/53738-h/53738-h.HTM
+
+
+
+
+     ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR.
+     VOL. I.
+
+
+
+
+     LONDON:
+     GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS,
+     ST. JOHN'S SQUARE.
+
+
+
+
+  [Illustration: Photographed from Life by LOCK AND WHITFIELD.]
+
+
+
+
+     ON HORSEBACK THROUGH
+     ASIA MINOR.
+
+     BY
+     CAPTAIN FRED BURNABY,
+
+     AUTHOR OF "A RIDE TO KHIVA."
+
+     WITH PORTRAIT AND MAPS.
+
+     IN TWO VOLUMES.
+
+     VOL. I.
+
+     London:
+     SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON,
+     CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET.
+
+     1877.
+
+     [All rights reserved.]
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+It has been said that a man often writes his book first, his preface
+last. The author of this work is no exception to the general rule.
+These volumes contain an account of a journey on horseback through Asia
+Minor. I was five months in that country, and traversed a district
+extending over 2000 miles. My limited leave of absence prevented me
+from staying more than a few days at the important towns which lay on
+the route.
+
+Although unable to learn so much as was to be desired of the ways
+and mode of life of the various inhabitants of Anatolia, I had the
+opportunity of talking to every class of society with reference to the
+questions of the day—the Conference, and the impending war with Russia.
+Pachas, farmers, peasants, all of them had something to say about these
+subjects.
+
+I met people of many different races: Turks, Armenians, Greeks,
+Turkomans, Circassians, Kurds, and Persians. They almost invariably
+received me very hospitably.
+
+The remarks which were made by the Mohammedans about the Christians,
+and by the Armenians about the Turks and Russians, sometimes interested
+me. I have thought that they might interest the public.
+
+The impression formed in my own mind as to the probable result of the
+war between Russia and Turkey was decidedly unfavourable to the latter
+power. Since this work has been written the soldiers of the Crescent
+have gallantly withstood their foe. My reasons for arriving at the
+above-mentioned opinion will be found in these volumes. They merely
+contain a sort of verbal photograph—if the reader will allow me to use
+the expression—of what I saw and heard during the journey.
+
+A few official reports, referring to the treatment of the members of
+the United Greek Christians by the Russian authorities will be seen in
+the Appendices, and amongst other matter a document brought to England
+by two Circassian Chiefs. It relates to the invasion of Circassia by
+the Russians. There are also some march routes and descriptions of
+various districts, taken and translated from different military works.
+
+     THE AUTHOR.
+
+     SOMERBY HALL, LEICESTERSHIRE,
+     September, 1877.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+It was the autumn of 1876: I had not as yet determined where to spend
+my winter leave of absence. There was a great deal of excitement in
+England; the news of some terrible massacres in Bulgaria had thoroughly
+aroused the public. The indignation against the perpetrators of these
+awful crimes became still more violent, when it was remembered that
+the Turkish Government had repudiated its loans, and that more than
+a hundred millions sterling had gone for ever from the pockets of the
+British tax-payer. This was very annoying.
+
+We were on the eve of an important election.[1] Some people declared
+that our Government might have prevented the massacres in Bulgaria;
+others, that an ostentatious protection had been shown to Turkey, and
+that Europe had been wantonly disturbed through the instrumentality of
+our Ministry.
+
+Illustrious statesmen, who were solacing themselves after the toils of
+the session, by meandering through the rural districts on bicycles, or
+by felling timber in sylvan groves, hurried up to town.
+
+Two letters appeared in the columns of the leading journal signed by
+gentlemen belonging to the Church of England, saying that they had seen
+Christians impaled by the Turks.
+
+Pamphlets were written and speeches made in which the subjects of the
+Sultan were held up to universal execration. Several distinguished
+Russians, who happened at that time to be in England, threw oil on the
+flames which had been kindled.
+
+Ladies, like Madame de Lievens, of whom the late Duke of Wellington
+wrote,[2] went from _salon_ to _salon_ and extolled the Christian
+motives of the Tzar. This feminine eloquence proved too much for a few
+of our legislators, who, like Lord Grey in the year 1829, entertained
+some old opposition opinions of Mr. Fox's, that "the Turks ought to be
+driven out of Europe."
+
+It was difficult to arrive at the truth amidst all the turmoil
+which prevailed. Were the Turks such awful scoundrels? Had the
+reverend gentlemen, to whom I have already alluded, really seen
+Christians impaled, or were these clergymen under the influence of a
+hallucination? There was one way to satisfy my own mind as to whether
+the subjects of the Porte were so cruel as they had been described. I
+determined to travel in Asia Minor; for there I should be with Turks
+who are far removed from any European supervision. Should I not behold
+Christians impaled and wriggling like worms on hooks in every high
+road of Armenia, or find an Inquisition and a weekly _auto da fé_ the
+amusement of the Mohammedans at Van?
+
+Judging from the pamphlets which were continually being written about
+the inhuman nature of the Turks, this was not at all improbable. I
+should also have the opportunity of seeing something of the country
+between the Russo-Turkish frontier and Scutari.
+
+It was the beginning of November. My leave of absence would commence
+towards the middle of the month. It was time to make preparations for
+the journey. On this occasion I determined to take an English servant,
+a faithful fellow, who had been with me in many parts of the world.
+
+Before leaving London I thought that it might be as well to write to
+the Turkish Ambassador, and ask him if there would be any objection on
+the part of the authorities in Constantinople to my proposed journey in
+Asia Minor, at the same time saying that in the event of my obtaining
+the permission to travel in Anatolia, I should be much obliged to His
+Excellency if he could supply me with the requisite passport. To this
+letter I received, by return of post, the most courteous reply. I
+was informed that every Englishman could travel where he liked in the
+Turkish Empire, and that nothing was required but the ordinary foreign
+office passport, one of which His Excellency enclosed.
+
+In the meantime I read all the books I could find which treated of
+Asia Minor. According to the works of those travellers who have been to
+Armenia in the winter, the cold would be very great. Indeed Tournefort
+found the wells in Erzeroum frozen over in July. Milner in his "History
+of the Turkish Empire," remarks of the mountainous district in Armenia,
+"Throughout this high region no one thinks, except under most urgent
+necessity, of travelling for eight months in the year, owing to the
+snow, ice, and intense cold."
+
+Regimental duty detained me in England during the summer. I could
+only avail myself of the winter for my journey. I had experienced
+the cold of the Kirghiz steppes in December and January, 1876, and
+was of opinion that the clothes which would keep a man alive in the
+deserts of Tartary, would more than protect him against the climate of
+Kurdistan. For shooting purposes I determined to take a little single
+Express rifle, made by Henry, and a No. 12 smooth-bore. A small stock
+of medicines was put in my saddle-bags in the event of any illness on
+the road.
+
+My arrangements were completed. I was ready to start.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+PAGE
+
+     The start—Cartridges and medicine bottles—The
+     obese Englishman and the Yankee's cook—The
+     refreshment-room at Dijon—"Ne vous pressez pas,
+     messieurs"—Fellow-passengers—The silk-merchant—The
+     pretty Greek girl who was a friend of Madame
+     Ignatieff—The doctor—The respective merits of medicine
+     and Christianity—The Bay of Smyrna—The Greek ladies
+     are not shy—Come along and smoke a Nargileh—A café in
+     Smyrna—The Italian prima donna—The Christians and Turks
+     in Smyrna—Newspapers believed to be in Russian pay—The
+     Pacha's seraglio—A comely dame—Five hundred recruits—A
+     doleful melody—To die for the sake of Islam—People so
+     silly as to think that Gortschakoff wishes for peace—The
+     fat woman—The eunuch in difficulties                            1
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+     The Bosphorus—The commissionnaires—Nothing
+     like the Hôtel de Luxembourg—Perdrix aux
+     truffes—Baksheesh—Officials in the custom-house—A
+     rickety old carriage—A Turkish Café Chantant—A
+     vocalist—Sultan Abdul Aziz—His kismet—We are all
+     under the influence of destiny—"Great Sultan, rest in
+     peace!"—Did Sultan Abdul Aziz really kill himself?—The
+     popular belief—He had agreed to sell the fleet to
+     Russia—A Russian force to garrison Constantinople—Two
+     of the secret police—The other verse—The audience—Too
+     much liberty in Constantinople—English newspapers,
+     hostile to Turkey, sold at every bookstall—An English
+     army of occupation in Constantinople—No gold;
+     nothing but paper—Trade paralyzed—In search of a
+     servant—A Mohammedan servant; his costume—A coachman
+     to a Pacha—Buffaloes as a means of locomotion—Mr.
+     Schuyler—Mr. Gallenga—Our consul at Belgrade—Mr.
+     Sala—The stations along the Russian line crowded with
+     troops—Mr. McGahan very popular with the Christians—The
+     Turkish newspapers—A ruse on the part of England—An
+     English officer—A strategic position—Some influential
+     Armenians—"We have no wish to become Russian
+     subjects"—The Catholics in Poland—Similar treatment
+     required for all sects—The word of a Christian in a
+     court of law—An Armenian priest—From Scutari to Kars—The
+     road blocked by snow—The dread of being seen speaking to
+     a European                                                     12
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+     The porter at the hotel—A little persuasive
+     force—Trains in Turkey are not very punctual—Two
+     Englishmen—Snipe-shooting—The railroad takes a
+     circuitous course—Krupp guns—The Christians are
+     too much for the Turks in a bargain—Hadem Kui—No
+     horse waiting—The station-master—A lanky, overgrown
+     lad—Buyuk Checkmedge and Kara Bournu—A branch railway
+     required—A station-master's salary—The horse—Attacked
+     by a dog—The defence of Constantinople—A song in
+     which the Turks delighted—Good-looking Hungarian
+     girls—The handsome Italian—"I am not a barrel"—The
+     song about the Turcos—Spontaneous combustion—A special
+     Correspondent—Algeria is not Turkey, but it does not
+     much signify                                                   27
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+     Osman—Five horses for sale—An industrious man—A
+     cemetery—A wall-eyed Turk—A little black—"He
+     ain't got no shoulders"—A horse with a sore back—A
+     roarer—The blind beggars hear him coming—A Turkish
+     horseshoe—Provisions for the journey—A prince belonging
+     to the Russian Embassy in the hospital—A prince a
+     boot-cleaner—Osman's relatives—The Hôtel Royal—A
+     stirrup-cup—Osman's religious scruples—The boat for
+     Scutari—Shipping our horses—Jealous husbands—A Turk's
+     seraglio—Was it a Torpedo?—The panels of the Bey's
+     carriage—An explosion of cartridges—Readjusting the
+     luggage—A torrent of expletives                                39
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+     Scutari—The resting-place of departed Turks—A frightened
+     horse—Obadiah—Tea and sugar in the mud—A _rahvan_,
+     or ambler—A runaway steed—Osman always praying
+     whenever there is work to be done—The grave-digger—The
+     Hammall—Radford—Through the swamp—The Khan at Moltape—A
+     _mungo_                                                        54
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+     The proprietor of the establishment—_Lingua
+     franca_—Gold, not paper—Gold a charm to the Greek—No
+     rooms—The Onbashee—His costume—The guard-house—A queer
+     place—"_At gitdi!_ the horse has gone!"—The Pacha
+     at Scutari—The corporal's demeanour when offered a
+     tip—A beautiful country—The bay of Ismid—A goose
+     plump as a Georgian woman—A Zaptieh—The chief of
+     the telegraph department in Ismid—A grievance—The
+     appearance of Ismid—Washing-day—The Pacha of Ismid—Mr.
+     Gladstone—"Gladstone is what you call a Liberal, is he
+     not?"—The Turkish debt—Russian agents bring about the
+     massacres of Christians                                        63
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+     An Armenian Bishop—An economical
+     refreshment—Ramazan—Smoking in the streets—The Turkish
+     Government is not so bad—The Koran and a Christian
+     witness—A telegram from the Pacha at Scutari—A
+     post-horse to Sabanja—Two Zaptieh—Turkish swords—A
+     horse lost—Four feet of mud—An ox-cart upset in the
+     mud—Woe-begone drivers—A priest during the Carlist
+     war—Turks and Christians have an extreme dislike to the
+     dread ordeal—Circassian Bashi Bazouks—Women ravished and
+     then butchered by the Russians—Sabanja—Scenery—There was
+     to have been a railway—A mule under difficulties               75
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+     Camels—The Sakaria—Geiweh—Yakoob Khan—Kashgar—The
+     Greeks in league with the Tzar—The Kara Su—A strategic
+     position—Terekli—Bashi Bazouks firing at a target—The
+     river Goonook—A black slave—Gondokoro—Abou Saood—How
+     to become rich—Set a slave to catch a slave—_Sharab_
+     makes one gay—Mudurlu—Absence of shops—_Toujours
+     poulet_—English manufactures in Anatolia—A Circassian
+     Zaptieh—A precipice—A baggage-horse upset                      86
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+     Nalihan—Armenian, Turkish, and Circassian visitors—The
+     state of the roads—Will there be war?—The Imaum—The
+     Servians—A bellicose old farmer—The Armenians friends
+     with the Russians—Sunnites and Shiites—Scenery near
+     Nalihan—Alatai river—A Turkish counterpane—Turkish
+     beds—Osman's _Yorgan_—Osman's wife—A girl with eyes
+     like a hare, and plump as a turkey—The farmer's nuptial
+     couch—An uncultivated district—An old Khan—A refuge for
+     travellers—An invalid soldier—A Christian would have let
+     me die like a dog—The votaries of Christianity in the
+     East                                                           95
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+     Radford and Osman—The quarrel—Do the Roossians
+     kiss each other?—Bei Bazar—The pig tobacco—Osman's
+     honesty—Forage for five horses—It is a good sign in
+     a horse to be always hungry—The Tchechmet river—The
+     Mudir at Istanos—The Cadi's mule—The tradition about
+     Istanos—Caverns formerly inhabited by marauders—A
+     chasm—The entrance to the caverns—A levee of the
+     inhabitants—No newspapers in the villages—An Armenian
+     priest—The furniture of the room—Has the Conference
+     commenced?—What is it all about?—Russia is strong and
+     we are weak—The other Powers are afraid of Russia—Will
+     England be our ally?—Are the Christians tortured?—Here
+     we get on very well with the Mussulmans—The pack-saddle       104
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+     One lives and learns even from Turks—The Mudir's two
+     sons—They like your nation—They remember the Crimean
+     War—Suleiman Effendi—The Vice-Consul—The town of
+     Angora was to be illuminated—The telegram about the
+     Constitution—What does the Constitution mean?—Suleiman
+     Effendi on education, and on religious matters—So many
+     roads to heaven—American missionaries—The massacres in
+     Bulgaria—The intrigues of Russia—The Circassians hate
+     the Russians—Circassian women butchered and ravished by
+     the Russians—An English priest—The impalement story—The
+     Vice-Consul's wife—A piano in Angora—Turkish ladies—A
+     visit to the Pacha—The audience-room—The Pacha's
+     son—Only one cannon in Angora—Twenty-five thousand men
+     gone to the war—The clerk—The Bey's library—The new
+     Constitution—The Bey's opinion about it—Turkey requires
+     roads and railways—The only carriage in Angora                116
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+     The Pacha's carriage—The coachman an Irishman—Christmas
+     day in Angora—The celebrities of the town—A society
+     of thieves—Fire in Sivrisa—The Turks and the
+     Armenians—So-called fanaticism—Ten Pachas in Angora
+     in four years—Cases of litigation—Arrears—The firman
+     of November, 1875—The famine in Angora—Deaths during
+     the famine—The goats died—A Mohammedan divine—The
+     Russian Ambassador and the secret societies—The English
+     newspapers and the Bulgarian atrocities—A Turk values
+     his nose quite as much as a Christian—Suleiman Effendi's
+     wife—The Turkish law about property—A dinner with a
+     Turkish gentleman—A mixture of nationalities—My host and
+     his digestion—Spirits refresh the stomach—The Prophet
+     and the old woman in Mecca—There are no old women in
+     heaven                                                        129
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+     The band—Turkish melodies—Turkish music like a
+     Turkish dinner; it is a series of surprises—Turkish
+     etiquette at dinner—The pack-horse is lame—The people
+     ask for many liras—The Postmaster is in bed—The
+     chief of the police—Horse-copers in Aleppo—The
+     fair sex in that city—A test for lovers—We burn our
+     fingers soon enough after marriage—Domestic life in
+     the harems in Angora—The immorality in Yuzgat—Mr.
+     Gasparini—Turkish hospitality—Armenians dress like
+     Turks—Christian women—Great harmony between Turks and
+     Christians—Armenian testimony doubtful—The prison
+     at Sivas—Hearsay evidence—A Turkish veterinary
+     surgeon—Horse-dealers—Two pounds offered for the
+     horse—History of the Ottoman Empire—The Bey's
+     present—Generosity of the Turks—The devil is not so
+     black as he is painted                                        139
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+     Leave Angora—The Effendi wants a turkey—A very
+     old cock—The cooking-pot—An Armenian woman on
+     horseback—Baggage upset in the river—Cartridges in
+     the water—Osman castigating the delinquent—Delayed on
+     the road—Asra Yuzgat—How the inhabitants build their
+     houses—The Caimacan—His house—His servants undress
+     him—He goes to bed—All the cartridges spoiled                 153
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+     The Kizil Ermak—No bridge in the neighbourhood—How
+     to cross the river—The triangular-shaped barge—The
+     current—Can my brother swim?—How to embark the
+     horses—Osman's expostulation—Bandaging the horse's
+     eyes—Yakshagan—Fresh post-horses—An uncivil
+     official—Madeh—Silver-mines—Water in the pits—Proper
+     machinery wanted—Engineers required—Kowakoli—Vines—How
+     to preserve grapes—Sugar very dear—A farmer—The Angora
+     famine—The late Sultan—Russian assessors—We do not
+     wish to be tortured to change our religion—Allah is
+     always on the side of justice—Sekili—The pace of a
+     _Rahvan_—Marble hovels—Hospitality—Foreign settlers—A
+     Kurdish encampment—The tax-collectors—The wealth of the
+     Kurdish Sheiks—The Delidsche Ermak—Fording the river—A
+     district abounding in salt—Turkoman girls—The many
+     languages spoken in Anatolia—A lunch under difficulties       163
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+     A victim to the famine—Daili—A conversation with some
+     Turkomans—The massacre of the Teke Turkomans by the
+     Russians—Women violated—Little boys and girls abused
+     and murdered—The Muscovite is a beast—Should not you
+     like to cut the throats of all the Russians?—What
+     is the best way to get rid of a wasp's nest?—A war
+     of extermination—Yuzgat—A cavalcade of horsemen—Mr.
+     Vankovitch—The telegram—Our reception—Old friends of
+     the Crimea—Some visitors—Things have altered for the
+     better—The Christians at Yuzgat—Armenians and Turks
+     dine together—Mr. Vankovitch's experiences—The Polish
+     insurrection—General Muravieff—Brutality to the women at
+     Vilna                                                         177
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+     M. Perrot—Armenian customs—Man and wife—We keep
+     our wives for ourselves—My host's niece—Law about
+     divorce—Shutting up the wives—Turkish husbands—How to
+     get a divorce—Marrying a divorced woman—Population of
+     Yuzgat—Crime—Mines in neighbourhood—Tax paid in lieu of
+     military service—The Circassians—Their promise to the
+     Turkish Government—Tax on land; on house-property; on
+     corn—Cattle—Collectors of taxes—Jealousy about religious
+     matters—Dissensions amongst Christians—American
+     Missionaries—A loyal address—The market—A bazaar two
+     stories high—A walk through the town—Gipsy women—An
+     elderly dame—Obstreperous young ladies—The old woman
+     dances                                                        187
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+     The Mosque—The interior of the building—The lamps
+     of different-coloured crystal—The Turks engaged
+     in prayer—Comparison between Christians and
+     Mussulmans—Daravish Bey—A wonderful shot—_Djerrid_—A
+     strange request—The chase—A Bosnian lady—Her costume—A
+     side-saddle—Even their women go out hunting—Daravish
+     Bey dressed for the chase—A long shot—The price of a
+     horse's forage—Most servants rob their masters—A Russian
+     officer—The Armenian schools—The girls' school—Perhaps
+     you would like to ask the boys some questions?—An
+     amateur setter of questions—Mr. Marillier of Harrow
+     school—A sum—The schoolboys of Yuzgat—A half-holiday          199
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+     A visit to some Greeks—The Turkish administration—The
+     impalement story—The law equally bad for Turks
+     and Christians—Peculiarity about the Armenians and
+     Greeks in Yuzgat—The outskirts of the town—An immense
+     crowd—Women clad in long white sheets—Throwing the
+     Djerrid—The game—We rode better in our time—A marriage
+     procession—Women riding donkeys—The head of the
+     Mohammedan religion at Yuzgat—The respective merits
+     of the Turkish and Christian faith—Allah is very kind
+     to all true believers—What is the good of insuring?—An
+     Armenian church—A raised platform enclosed by trellis
+     work—The occupants of the gallery—The women will
+     stare at the men—Ladies distract the attention of the
+     congregation—The Pole's house—A cheap servant                 211
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+     The gipsies—A fearful instrument—The musicians—The
+     dancers—The chief of the gipsy women—Her
+     attire—Vankovitch's wife—A glass of raki—The fat
+     woman—The man with the bagpipes—The dance—The two
+     girls—The old lady accompanies them—The castanets—What
+     is the good of dancing?—The Lord Chamberlain, who
+     is he?—The marriage festivals in a harem—The old
+     woman dances a _pas seul_—Osman's interview with
+     Vankovitch—Oh, Osman! thou descendant of a line of
+     thieves!—What is the meaning of this?—The Effendi's
+     horses—The people at the Khans—An undulating
+     country—Mostaphas—Unwillingness to fight their country's
+     battles—Several inhabitants killed in Servia—Industrious
+     insects—A country like the Saxon Switzerland—A district
+     abounding with pine forests—The telegraph wire to
+     Sivas—Saw-mills—Gogderi Soo—A house with two rooms—The
+     stable—The fire—The harem—My host and his wives—Two
+     shots in the air—The ladies—Their legs—The discomfort of
+     the proprietor                                                220
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+     Sileh Zela—Its position—The old citadel—The soil in the
+     neighbourhood—A battalion of infantry—The Caimacan—The
+     audience-chamber—The Cadi—The battalion going to
+     Samsoun—The local authorities—The Colonel—England
+     would be neutral—What, desert her old friend of the
+     Crimea?—An ally in Austria—Andrassy—An Imaum—Propensity
+     for fighting—A Christian Bishop—The most welcome members
+     of society—Yakoob Khan of Kashgar—The Russians and
+     the Chinese—The Khivans, Bokharians, and Turkomans—A
+     rising of the Poles—The Armenians in Sileh—The ancient
+     city—A secret passage—My tea and sugar—Osman had a
+     sweet tooth—My lord's liberality praised—Osman to kneel
+     on his own coat—Tartars—Lazy husbands—A plain planted
+     with tobacco—Mountains covered with vines—Many-coloured
+     sand-hills—A wonderful phenomenon—Bazar—Pacha
+     Williams—Teesdale—Kars—Is Pacha Williams still alive?         231
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+     Tokat—The Caimacan of the town—The battalion is to
+     march to Samsoun—A naturalized Englishman—The road
+     from Tokat to Sivas—The population of Tokat—The rich
+     inhabitants bribe the gendarmes—The want of funds—The
+     officials' salaries in arrear—Armenian schools in
+     Tokat—The Greeks; not much reliance to be placed upon
+     them—Khiva—Tashkent—Samarcand—Mussulmans in India—The
+     Black Sea and the Russian Fleet—Old soldiers in
+     Tokat—The Armenians and Greeks to be supplied with
+     fire-arms—Good governors—Osman Bey—A Circassian
+     on Russian atrocities—A statement by the Russian
+     authorities—Seven hundred families near Labinsky—Men,
+     women, and children at the breast butchered—English
+     sympathizers with Russia—The Russians sow the seeds of
+     dissension amongst the Circassians—Yonn Bek—Many gold
+     imperials offered to him                                      242
+
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+     The servant of the house—The Onbashee—Five
+     piastres—Osman detected—The guilty man—Vankovitch's
+     remarks—The sentence—May I put Osman in prison?—The
+     barracks—Two old Khans—The women weeping—Immense
+     enthusiasm—Numbers of volunteers—Parading for the
+     march—Men crying—We shall eat the Russians—The
+     Sergeant—The Major of the battalion—The Dervish—A
+     Circassian—The Imaum of the regiment—The
+     Muleteer—Baggage animals required for the regiment—A
+     bitter cry—The women's wail—The old Major—The soldiers'
+     hymn—The standard of the battalion—Go in safety—God be
+     with you!                                                     253
+
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+     Osman Bey—A Circassian feud—Will there be a rising in
+     the Caucasus?—If England were to help us—A wonderful
+     servant—Mohammed—His Captain—An Armenian doctor—Business
+     is flat—The Christian population to be armed—Visitors
+     asking favours—Your reward will be in heaven—A
+     subscription—Promotion through favouritism—A sad story—A
+     cruel father—A servant arrested for debt—Failure of
+     justice                                                       264
+
+CHAPTER XXV.
+
+     Mohammed's horse—The Effendi's barley—The road from
+     Tokat to Sivas—A very pretty girl—Tchiflik—Complaints
+     made against the Circassians—Highly cultivated soil—The
+     Tchamlay Bel mountain—A Turk killed—A wonderful
+     gun—Yenihan—The Yeldez Ermak—The Kizil Ermak—Sivas—A
+     ruined citadel—The importance of Sivas from a military
+     point of view—My entry into Sivas—The guard—An Italian
+     engineer—Three American missionaries—A house pillaged         275
+
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+     The prison in Sivas—Christian prisoners—The gaoler—Kurds
+     and Circassians—A few Armenians—False statement made
+     to me by Christians—The old murderer—The firman for
+     his execution—Kept in suspense—Our Governor dislikes
+     shedding blood—Issek Pacha—He may die—His residence—The
+     law in Turkey about murder—Mercenary dealings—Lax
+     justice                                                       284
+
+CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+     The Governor calls—A great honour—The Khedive's
+     treasurer—The Pacha's carriage—The Turks and
+     Christians—The Russian Government—The Armenian
+     subjects of the Porte—The seeds of disaffection—General
+     Ignatieff—The treasurer—The Italian lady—Erzingan—The
+     Governor's invitation—The cold in the country—The
+     Pacha was nearly frozen to death—His march from
+     Kars to Erzeroum—Deep chasms along the track—The
+     Conference is over—The Missionaries' home—American
+     hospitality—The ladies—A Turkish woman in the streets
+     of New York—A Chinese lad—New Orleans—The Anglo-Indian
+     telegraph—The Franco-German War—The potato plant—The
+     Armenians more deceitful than the Turks—The converts to
+     Protestantism—The Tzar's Government does not tolerate
+     any religion save its own—The superstitions attached to
+     the Greek faith                                               295
+
+CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+     An Armenian Monastery—A large garden—Farms belonging to
+     the Monks—The Bishop—A fast day—The Turkish finance—The
+     Armenian merchants in Sivas—The telegraph employed
+     by them—The rise and fall in _caime_—The breath of
+     scandal—A former Governor of Sivas—A suspicious case—His
+     Eminence cannot marry—Are Protestant Bishops allowed
+     to marry?—The chapels belonging to the Monastery—A
+     curious altar—A strange tradition—The martyrs of Sivas—A
+     picture of one of the Kings of Armenia—The Kings and
+     the Church—Things are very different now—Privileges
+     of the Monks—The Russian war with Persia—An Armenian
+     General—Hassan, Khan of Persia—Sugar—How to make a large
+     fortune                                                       307
+
+CHAPTER XXIX.
+
+     The principal mosque—An ostrich egg—Curious custom—The
+     dancing dervishes—A regiment of cavalry leaves Sivas—The
+     arms of the men—Appearance of the horses—A short
+     route to Erzeroum—Dudusa—The Kizil Ermak—Scenery—Glass
+     replaced by alabaster—A raid on an Armenian village—The
+     robbers caught—Women said to have been outraged—Kotnu—An
+     accident—The Zaptiehs out of temper—Mohammed's
+     appetite—A comparison between Mohammed and Osman              316
+
+CHAPTER XXX.
+
+     Snow—The path covered by it—The scenery—Upset in a
+     snowdrift—Nearly down a chasm—Probing the ground—A
+     consultation—Teaching my followers manners—May he die
+     of the plague—A baggage-horse knocked up—Yarbasan—A
+     dirty village—The farmer committing himself to
+     Providence—Visiting his friends—The Zaptiehs—Their
+     remarks—The Giaour threatened to beat us—The Inglis
+     giaour is different to the Armenian giaour                    325
+
+CHAPTER XXXI.
+
+     The river Dumrudja—How to cross the river?—A waterfall
+     in the neighbourhood—Thanksgivings—Crossing the
+     mountain—A house of refuge—Divriki—Its appearance—The
+     number of houses—The river Tchalt Tchai—The Captain—His
+     evolutions—Lor! what a cropper—Serve him right,
+     sir—A Astley's performance—My host—Mines in the
+     neighbourhood—People with brains—Houses formerly built
+     of hewn stone—Cause of the decline of the Turkish
+     power—Wives chosen for their looks—How to breed a
+     good foal—A Turk's opinion of European women—They
+     uncover their faces—What ridiculous creatures they must
+     be—The Citadel—The Persians—The Greek fire—The view of
+     Divriki—Sport—A rifle used as a shot gun—One of your
+     best shots—The Kurds—Gunpowder—It is manufactured by
+     the Kurds—All Powder is sent from Constantinople—Cost
+     to the Government of cartridges—The Pacha of Sivas—His
+     astrologer—Christians who are usurers—Turkish families
+     ruined                                                        333
+
+CHAPTER XXXII.
+
+     Usury laws in Turkey—An Armenian in prison for debt—The
+     Caimacan—The Turkish creditor—Hanistan Ereek's father—A
+     Government cannot be imprisoned for debt—The redif
+     soldiers—Their unwillingness to serve—The Armenians
+     not to be trusted—Yanoot—A picture of desolation—A
+     Jordan road—Turkish soldiers do not grumble—Arabkir—A
+     silk-merchant—My host—His library—Pretty covers—A
+     Russian servant—He was taken prisoner during the Crimean
+     war                                                           344
+
+
+  [Illustration:  A MAP OF CAPT. BURNABY'S ROUTE
+
+     Stanford's Geogl. Estabt., Charing Cross.
+
+     London: Sampson Low, Marston, Searle & Rivington.]
+
+
+
+
+ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+     The start—Cartridges and medicine bottles—The obese
+     Englishman and the Yankee's cook—The refreshment-room at
+     Dijon—"Ne vous pressez pas, messieurs"—Fellow-passengers—The
+     silk-merchant—The pretty Greek girl who was a friend of
+     Madame Ignatieff—The doctor—The respective merits of
+     medicine and Christianity—The bay of Smyrna—The Greek
+     ladies are not shy—Come along and smoke a Nargileh—A café in
+     Smyrna—The Italian prima donna—The Christians and Turks in
+     Smyrna—Newspapers believed to be in Russian pay—The Pacha's
+     seraglio—A comely dame—Five hundred recruits—A doleful
+     melody—To die for the sake of Islam—People so silly as to
+     think that Gortschakoff wishes for peace—The fat woman—The
+     eunuch in difficulties.
+
+
+"Be quick, sir; you have no time to lose!" cried an officious porter
+in the Charing Cross Station, as he bustled me into a first-class
+carriage; and I found myself in the same compartment with a Queen's
+messenger bound for St. Petersburg. Time fled rapidly by, and I had
+hardly realized to myself that London was left behind, ere I was
+walking down those very uncomfortable steps which lead to the Calais
+boat. A rough passage with a number of Gauls, who all talked loud
+at starting, but whose conversation gradually died away in mournful
+strains, and we steamed into Calais harbour; five hours later I was
+having my luggage examined in the waiting-room in Paris.
+
+"Sir, they ain't found the cartridges, for I took good care to mix them
+up with the medicine bottles," whispered my servant Radford, as he
+mounted the box of our fiacre, and I drove away to a hotel, somewhat
+relieved in my mind, as I was not quite sure whether carrying loaded
+cartridges is permitted on the Chemin de Fer du Nord. I did not remain
+long in Paris. The 2000 miles ride which lay before me across Asia
+Minor would take up every day of my leave. There was no time to lose,
+and in a very few hours I was in a railway station taking tickets for
+Marseilles. The night mail was just about to start. There were none but
+first-class carriages. The result was that servants and masters had to
+travel together.
+
+"You will sit in that carriage," said an obese and rubicund
+Englishman to his groom, pointing to my compartment; "I cannot go with
+servants;"—and he entered another carriage. Farther on I saw the portly
+personage in the refreshment-room at Dijon. He was talking to a little
+Frenchman, and apparently on the best of terms with him. The sound of
+their voices was mingled with the jingling of glasses and the clinking
+of knives and forks. Every one was eating as fast as he could. The
+waiters were serving the different travellers with lightning rapidity,
+and the proprietor of the buffet was calling out from time to time in
+a deep bass voice,—
+
+"Ne vous pressez pas, messieurs. Il y a encore 10 minutes avant le
+départ du train."
+
+"Who is the little man?" I inquired of a talkative Yankee who was
+sitting by my side during the _table d'hôte_.
+
+"He, sir? He is my cook, and I am taking him with me to Nice."
+
+The obese Englishman heard the remark, and became more rubicund than
+before.
+
+"I reckon I have collapsed him," muttered the American. "If I have to
+travel with his darned servant, I don't see why he should not travel
+with mine."
+
+The train rattled on. Each man in our crowded compartment tried to
+compose himself to sleep; the red light from the American's cigar
+gradually died away, and the individual himself, coolly lolling his
+head on his neighbour's shoulder, sank into semi-unconsciousness.
+
+The morn broke bright and glorious. Winter was left behind; we were in
+the land of orange-trees and olives.
+
+The steamer for Constantinople started at four o'clock that afternoon,
+so we drove straight from the station in Marseilles to the harbour.
+Here I found a splendid vessel belonging to Les Messageries Maritimes,
+and which was already getting up steam. The captain was bustling about,
+giving orders. The crew were hauling in the ponderous anchors.
+
+There were not many passengers on board; only a silk merchant from
+Lyons, a rabid republican, and a pretty Greek girl,—a friend of Madame
+Ignatieff, the wife of the Russian ambassador at Constantinople,—who,
+after paying a visit to some friends in Paris, was again on her way
+to Constantinople. Our vessel was soon steaming ahead. She ploughed
+her way splendidly through the waters, and hardly a motion could be
+perceived inside the spacious saloon which formed the dining-room
+of the passengers. We were but a small party. The captain, a cheery
+tar who had been in every part of the world, and knew more stories
+about the unguardedness of the fair sex than perhaps any other mortal
+living. The doctor, a somewhat bilious and elderly gentleman, who
+became easily excited on all religious questions, and gave short
+dissertations between the courses on the respective merits of medicine
+and Christianity. The silk-merchant, who cursed the empire, and
+then informed us that trade had never been so flourishing as under
+Napoleon's rule. Presently he told me in a whisper that some Frenchmen
+wished for another Emperor, and he concluded, with an oath, that if
+there were, he would head a revolution and sacrifice his own life—yes,
+his own life!—sooner than that the Prince Imperial should sit upon the
+throne of France.
+
+We steam into the bay of Smyrna; the picturesque and undulating coast
+is shaded in a framework of azure clouds; the sea, blue as lapis
+lazuli, is dotted with numerous vessels; flags of almost every nation
+in the world float in the balmy air; the clean white houses, with their
+many-coloured wooden shutters, brighten up the glorious landscape; and
+boatmen, dressed in garbs of many hues and fashions, throng the sides
+of our vessel.
+
+"I am going on shore," said the silk-merchant, who was surrounded by
+a crowd of vociferous Greeks. "Our steamer will not start for several
+hours. Let us dine in a café, and see if the fair sex in this part of
+Turkey is as beautiful as some travellers would have us believe."
+
+I accepted his proposal, and we walked through the streets of Smyrna.
+The town, clean as it looked from the harbour, proved to be a hideous
+deception. The streets were narrow and dirty, and the odour which
+everywhere met our olfactory nerves, was strongly suggestive of typhus.
+Women were seated in the _patios_ or open courts of the houses, and
+the Greek ladies in Smyrna are evidently not shy. They boldly returned
+the inquisitive glances of my companion and myself, and appeared rather
+pleased than otherwise at our curiosity.
+
+"Well, I can't say much for their beauty," observed my companion. "They
+have good eyes and hair, but all of them look as if they had not washed
+their faces for at least a fortnight. Come along and smoke a Nargileh.
+If there is one thing I love, it is a Nargileh, and when I am inhaling
+the tobacco I imagine myself to be a Pacha surrounded by my seraglio."
+
+We turned into a café; it was surrounded by a large garden. Some Greek
+merchants were playing at dominoes; an Italian prima donna, who might
+have been any age from seventy to a hundred, was singing a popular
+air; men with game and fish for sale walked up and down, regardless
+of interrupting the ancient vocalist, and offered their wares to the
+visitors. Presently my companion moved uneasily in his chair; some
+drops of perspiration stood on his forehead, and his face was becoming
+rapidly green under the influence of the Turkish Nargileh.
+
+"I think I have had enough," he remarked. "The room is very hot. _Au
+revoir._" And he returned to our vessel.
+
+In the meantime I proceeded to call upon a friend in the town. This
+gentleman informed me that the Christians and Turks in Smyrna were on
+the best of terms; however, he added that certain papers, believed to
+be in Russian pay, were constantly announcing that there would shortly
+be a massacre of the Christians; it was said that this was done to
+excite bad blood between the two sects.
+
+The shrill sound of the steamer's whistle announced that she was
+getting up steam. Hastily retracing my steps, I arrived on board just
+as the crew were weighing anchor. The original number of passengers
+had by this time received a considerable addition. Greeks, Armenians,
+and Turks were walking about or lying stretched along the deck. Women
+and children were huddled up in close proximity with the men. A Babel
+of different languages was going on around me, and an old Greek woman
+was having an animated squabble with one of the ship's officers, the
+subject of discussion being as to whether the ancient female had paid
+the proper fare. The French officer could speak but little Greek,
+and the shrill-voiced dame no French; in consequence of this it was
+difficult for them to arrive at any satisfactory solution of the
+matter.
+
+A Pacha, his son, and the chief of the telegraphs, were the only
+first-class passengers. However, four ladies, the Pacha's seraglio, had
+been accommodated on the deck; they were reclining on some cushions
+in close juxtaposition with their attendant—a negro. The voice of
+this sable gentleman was pitched in a feminine key, and he was busily
+engaged in arranging some pillows beneath the stoutest of the ladies—a
+comely dame who would have turned the scale at probably sixteen
+stone. Two pointer dogs in a large hamper, which was directed to a
+Bey in Constantinople, added their barking to the general clamour, and
+some horses, bound to Stamboul, were fastened by head-collars to the
+bulwarks, no horse-boxes being provided. Farther on, and towards the
+steerage end of the vessel, were 500 recruits, on their way to Servia,
+and in high spirits at the idea of shortly encountering the Russians.
+
+It was a lovely evening, and I walked along the deck with the captain,
+gazing curiously at his motley passengers. The stars shone bright, as
+became an Eastern clime; a gradually freshening breeze for the moment
+had cleared the horizon.
+
+"We shall have an easy passage," I remarked.
+
+"Yes, for good sailors," was the reply; "but it will be a little rough
+for those poor women,"—pointing to the pacha's harem—"and for the
+half-clad recruits yonder."
+
+The latter did not seem to anticipate the treat that was in store
+for them. They were scattered in groups about the deck, many of them
+squatting upon their haunches, and attired for the most part in rags
+and many-coloured patchwork.
+
+Presently a doleful melody was heard; the dirge which reached our ears
+told us of the readiness of these embryo warriors to meet the foe and
+die for the sake of Islam.
+
+"They will die quite soon enough," remarked the captain drily, as the
+last verse died away. "Look down there," he added, pointing to the
+ship's hold; "our vessel is laden with 300 tons of lead, and once a
+week for several months past the steamers belonging to the Messageries
+Maritimes have been freighted with a similar cargo. This is all going
+to Odessa. It will be odd if some of the lead does not soon find its
+way back to the true believers, in the shape of bullets."
+
+"The Russian Government is putting itself to great expense," he
+continued; "however, there are people so silly as to think that
+Gortschakoff wishes for peace; and in spite of all his preparations
+they actually believe in the Conference!"
+
+The captain now left me, but I remained on deck. The freshening gale
+gradually imparted an oscillating movement to our steamer. The rain
+fell in large drops. Some of the sailors covered the ladies of the
+harem with an awning. The horses began to kick, and the dogs in the
+hamper to bark. A melancholy groan could be heard from that part of
+the vessel appropriated by the soldiers. The first to succumb was
+the fat woman; in despairing tones she called for assistance. The
+black attendant rushed to the rescue and convulsively grasped the
+lady's head. It was a funny spectacle—that enormous pumpkin-shaped
+face supported by two black hands. The now hazy moon cast a shadowy
+beam on the negro's countenance: from black it changed to green;
+it assumed a diabolical expression. The vessel lurched; he lost his
+balance; dropping his mistress's head, he fell down upon the pointers.
+They set up a savage growl. The eunuch started to his feet; his hair
+bristled with alarm; he felt himself all over. However, there was no
+damage done, and with a sorrowful mien he returned to the side of his
+mistress.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+     The Bosphorus—The commissionnaires—Nothing like the Hôtel
+     de Luxembourg—Perdrix aux truffes—Baksheesh—Officials in the
+     custom-house—A rickety old carriage—A Turkish Café Chantant—A
+     vocalist—Sultan Abdul Aziz—His kismet—We are all under the
+     influence of destiny—"Great Sultan, rest in peace!"—Did
+     Sultan Abdul Aziz really kill himself?—The popular belief—He
+     had agreed to sell the fleet to Russia—A Russian force to
+     garrison Constantinople—Two of the secret police—The other
+     verse—The audience—Too much liberty in Constantinople—English
+     newspapers, hostile to Turkey, sold at every bookstall—An
+     English army of occupation in Constantinople—No gold; nothing
+     but paper—Trade paralyzed—In search of a servant—A Mohammedan
+     servant; his costume—A coachman to a Pacha—Buffaloes as a
+     means of locomotion—Mr. Schuyler—Mr. Gallenga—Our consul at
+     Belgrade—Mr. Sala—The stations along the Russian line crowded
+     with troops—Mr. McGahan very popular with the Christians—The
+     Turkish newspapers—A ruse on the part of England—An English
+     officer—A strategic position—Some influential Armenians—"We
+     have no wish to become Russian subjects"—The Catholics in
+     Poland—Similar treatment required for all sects—The word of a
+     Christian in a court of law—An Armenian priest—From Scutari
+     to Kars—The road blocked by snow—The dread of being seen
+     speaking to a European.
+
+
+The following morning my servant awoke me with the announcement that
+we had arrived in the Bosphorus, and that he had not been able to eat
+his supper. By this last piece of intelligence he wished to convey
+to my mind that the storm had been more than usually violent. I was
+soon dressed, and, going on deck, found it crowded with interpreters
+from the different hotels. During previous sojourns in Constantinople,
+I had learnt by experience the discomfort of some of the purely
+British establishments. I had made up my mind on this occasion to
+try a French hotel. My hands were filled with cards announcing the
+merits of the different inns. The commissionnaires were deafening me
+with their shouts, each man bawling louder than his fellow, when the
+silk-merchant declared in a loud voice that there was nothing like
+the Hôtel de Luxembourg, and he added that the _perdrix aux truffes_
+and the _vol-au-vent à la financière_, as supplied by the chef of that
+establishment, were something—yes, something; and he kissed the tips of
+his fingers as he made the last remark, so as to show his appreciation
+of the exquisiteness of those dishes.
+
+"Perhaps the gentlemen do not wish their luggage examined?" said an
+officious Greek, the commissionnaire of the Luxembourg. "I will give a
+baksheesh to the officials in the custom-house, and they will pass the
+luggage at once. But if we do not give them any money," he added, with
+a knowing grin, "they will detain you at least an hour, and rumple all
+the shirts in your portmanteaus."
+
+"Will it be much money?" inquired my companion, who, very reluctant to
+open his purse-strings, was equally averse to having his shirt-fronts
+rumpled.
+
+"No, sir, leave it to me," replied the Greek, with an air of great
+importance.
+
+"I know that this scoundrel will rob us!" ejaculated the silk-merchant.
+"But we are in his hands. We must pay, whether we like it or not."
+
+We arrived at the custom-house. An elderly official approached the
+Greek, and, pointing to us, said something in his ear.
+
+"We shall be robbed, I know we shall," muttered my companion excitedly.
+"If I could only speak the language, I would just give that official a
+piece of my mind."
+
+The Greek now put some money into the inspector's hand, and the latter,
+opening and shutting a hat-case, announced that the examination was
+over. Some porters carried our luggage up the steep hill which led from
+the port to Pera. We followed in a rickety old carriage. The springs
+were very weak, and the vehicle rolled from side to side as our horses
+panted along the wretchedly dirty street. Presently, to the relief
+of my companion and self, who were neither of us feather weights, the
+driver pulled up at our destination.
+
+In the evening I went to a Turkish Café Chantant. It was a curious
+sight. Solemn-looking Turks were seated round the room, each man
+smoking his Nargileh. Little active-looking Greeks with cigarettes
+in their mouths, were eagerly reading the most recent telegrams, and
+discussing the chances of peace or war. In the interval between the
+songs a small knot of younger Turks loudly applauded a vocalist, and
+the latter began to sing about Sultan Abdul Aziz, of all his glory,
+and how at last pride turned his head. He did foolish things, went mad,
+and killed himself. "But it was not his fault," continued the singer,
+in another verse, "it was his kismet. If he had been destined to die a
+natural death, or on the battle-field, he would have done so. We are
+all under the influence of destiny. Sultans are like the rest of the
+world. Great Sultan, rest in peace!"
+
+I had the good fortune to be accompanied by a friend, an old resident
+in Constantinople. He was a perfect master of Turkish, and he readily
+translated to me each verse of the song.
+
+"What is your opinion about Abdul Aziz's death?" I inquired of my
+companion, as the last strains of the melody died away. "Did he really
+kill himself, as the world would have us believe? or did some one else
+save him the trouble?"
+
+My companion laughed ironically, paused for a few moments, and then
+remarked,—
+
+"No one knows the exact facts of the case, but the popular belief is
+that he was assassinated. Indeed, the Turks say that he had agreed to
+sell the fleet to Russia, and had consented to allow a Russian force to
+garrison Constantinople."
+
+"There is no doubt of one thing," continued my friend, "viz. that the
+late Sultan was thoroughly under Ignatieff's thumb. The ambassador
+could do what he liked with him. The Softas found it out, and feared
+the consequences. From these facts the public have jumped to the
+conclusion that he was assassinated."
+
+"But look," added my companion, pointing to two men in the corner of
+the room, "there are two of the secret police. If they were not here,
+we should very likely have had another verse or so, more explicit as to
+the Sultan's fate. The audience would have been delighted if the singer
+had given us the popular version of Abdul Aziz's death."
+
+"Are there many secret police?" I inquired.
+
+"No, there is, if anything, too much liberty in Constantinople; the
+papers write what they like, and abuse the Government freely, hardly
+any of them being suppressed in consequence, whilst some English
+newspapers which are more bitter against Turkey than even the Russian
+journals, are sold at every bookstall."
+
+"Do you think that there is any chance of another massacre of
+Christians?" I remarked.
+
+"Not the slightest; that is to say, if Ignatieff does not arrange one
+for some political purpose. The Turks and Christians get on very well
+together here, whatever they may do in other parts of the country.
+However, there is one thing which would be very popular with all
+classes, and that is, an English army of occupation in Constantinople."
+
+"Why so?" I inquired.
+
+"Because this would bring some gold into the country. We have now
+nothing but paper. Your people would spend money, and business would
+go on better. Why, for the last six months trade has been almost
+paralyzed. In fact, to tell you the truth, all classes would be very
+glad to see the English at Constantinople. Not for the sake of your
+good system of government, as you flatter yourselves in London, or
+through fear of being massacred by Bashi Bazouks, but simply because
+you have gold. Unless you bring us some, we shall all soon be ruined."
+
+On the following day I informed the proprietor of the hotel that I
+wanted a servant who could speak Turkish, to accompany me during my
+journey. The moment that this became known I was beset by all sorts of
+individuals, Armenians and Greeks, eager to offer their services. Each
+man brought his testimonials, and declared that he was the only honest
+man in Constantinople, and that all the other applicants were thieves,
+and would certainly rob me. If ever I appeared to have a predilection
+for one of the candidates, I was immediately informed by the others
+that the man had been in prison for six months, or else that he was
+suspected of murder.
+
+In consequence of this I determined to follow the advice of an
+Englishman who knew Turkey well, and take a Mohammedan servant, who
+could speak no other language than his own. In that case he would be
+less likely to have learned any bad habits from the Armenians, and at
+the same time I should be compelled to speak to him in Turkish, and
+thus improve my knowledge of that language.
+
+The next morning a Turk came to the hotel, and offered himself for the
+situation. He was dressed in the Circassian style, and wore a short
+brown serge jacket, dotted across the breast with empty cartridge
+cases. His head was covered by a red fez or cap, encircled by a green
+turban. A loose pair of light blue trousers, fastened at the waist by
+a crimson sash, and a pair of boots, half-way up the knee, completed
+his attire. He was a tall, fine-looking fellow, and said that he had
+previously been coachman to a Pacha, that he was a good groom, and
+would be faithful to me as an Arab steed to his Arab master. It was
+a pretty speech, but as I had seen some horses in the desert which
+invariably kicked whenever their master approached them, it did
+not produce the effect upon my mind which probably the faithful man
+desired. However I was in a hurry to get a servant; so I agreed to take
+the fellow, and give him 4_l._ per month and his food. In the meantime
+he said that he knew of some horses for sale, and that he would bring
+them to the hotel in the course of a few days.
+
+I had previously ascertained that my best plan would be to purchase
+a stud in Constantinople. In many parts of my proposed journey I
+should be off the postal track, and then it would be difficult to hire
+any horses—indeed it would sometimes be impossible, as the natives
+in certain parts of Kurdistan make use of buffaloes as a means of
+locomotion. I had once ridden a cow during an African journey. The
+motion is very uncomfortable; I had no wish to repeat the experiment
+with a buffalo.
+
+Later on an invitation arrived for me to breakfast with Mr. Schuyler,
+the distinguished diplomatist, and the author of the highly-interesting
+volume, "Turkistan." On arriving at his house I found some of the
+guests already assembled. Amongst others, there were Mr. Gallenga, the
+_Times'_ correspondent, and Mr. White, our consul at Belgrade.
+
+Presently there was a ring at the bell, and who should come in but
+Mr. Sala, the well-known correspondent of the _Daily Telegraph_.
+His arrival was quite an unexpected pleasure for our host. Mr. Sala
+had only reached Constantinople half an hour before, and had come to
+us straight from the harbour. He had left England about three weeks
+previously, and first had gone to St. Petersburg. Here he had been
+introduced to several Russian journalists. He related in a very amusing
+way their conversation about England's policy towards Turkey, an
+account of which Mr. Sala had duly posted to the _Daily Telegraph_.
+
+From St. Petersburg he had made his way to Odessa, and had come on
+_viâ_ the Black Sea to Constantinople. He described all the stations
+along the Russian line as crowded with troops and blocked by military
+railway carriages; whilst he laughed incredulously when some of our
+party gave it as their opinion that the Conference would lead to peace.
+
+Our host opined that the different representatives at the Conference
+would never agree, and that war would inevitably be the result. He
+had recently returned from a visit to Philippopolis, where he had
+been staying with Mr. McGahan, the gentleman who wrote such harrowing
+accounts of the massacres in Bulgaria to the _Daily News_. Mr. McGahan,
+it appeared, had made himself very useful to Lady Strangford in
+assisting her to distribute the funds which had been subscribed for
+the destitute families in the East, and was immensely popular with the
+Christians.
+
+Meanwhile the Turkish newspapers, it was said, were very divided in
+their opinions as to the Conference. The majority of them, however,
+were inclined to believe that it was a ruse of Russia to gain time for
+her military preparations, and of England to make Russia unpopular, and
+to sow discord between her and the other powers.
+
+Later on in the day I met an English officer in the Engineers, who
+had come to Constantinople during his leave, and was spending his
+time, in company with some other officers, in surveying a position
+between the Sea of Marmora and the Black Sea, and which is immediately
+in front of Constantinople. He was staying at a small village about
+twenty miles from Constantinople, and asked me to spend a day with
+him and his friends, when we could ride over the ground which he was
+surveying. As I was curious to see the country in that neighbourhood,
+I readily assented to his proposal. It was agreed that I should leave
+Constantinople by the seven o'clock train on the following morning, and
+that he should send a horse to meet me at a little station about twenty
+miles from the city.
+
+Mr. Gallenga had been kind enough to give me an introduction to some
+influential Armenians in Pera. On returning to my hotel I found two
+of these gentlemen awaiting my arrival. They were very disappointed to
+hear that I had engaged a Turkish servant, as they said they could have
+procured an honest Armenian, and they kindly volunteered to provide me
+with letters of recommendation to the different Armenian dignitaries in
+the chief towns which lay in my route.
+
+It was easy to gather from the conversation of one of these gentlemen
+that he was not well-disposed to the idea of possibly one day becoming
+a Russian subject.
+
+"What is your opinion of the wish which General Ignatieff is said to
+have expressed, about making Bulgaria independent of the Porte?" I
+inquired.
+
+"That would never do," replied one of my visitors. "We have difficulty
+enough, as it is, in keeping our people quiet in Armenia: they will be
+very indignant if the Christians in Europe are granted privileges which
+the Armenians in Asia are not permitted to share."
+
+"The fact is," observed the other, "that we have no wish to become
+Russian subjects. Should this happen, we know very well what would be
+the result. We should not be permitted to use our own language, and
+considerable pressure would be brought to bear to induce us to change
+our religion. We are aware of what has been done to the Catholics in
+Poland;[3] we have no wish to be treated in the same manner."
+
+"What we require is similar treatment for all sects," observed the
+first speaker, "and that the word of a Christian when given in a court
+of law should be looked upon as evidence, and in the same light as a
+Mohammedan's statement. If the Caimacans (Deputy Governors) and Cadis
+of the different towns in the interior were only compelled to do us
+justice in this respect, we should not have much cause to grumble.
+However, if the Russians were to go to Van, our fellow-countrymen would
+be ten times worse off than they are at present."
+
+Just then an Armenian priest entered the room. He stooped, and was
+apparently on the wrong side of sixty, but he had a quick, penetrating
+glance, when he chose to raise his eyes from the floor, and it was
+evident that there was plenty of vigour in his brain, however little
+there might be in his body.
+
+"This English gentleman wishes to learn some particulars about the road
+to Van," observed one of the Armenians; "I want you to give him all the
+information in your possession."
+
+"He will find it very difficult to reach Van at this season of the
+year, on account of the snow, and he will run a considerable risk of
+being robbed or murdered by the Kurds," replied the priest, without
+raising his eyes from the ground.
+
+"Have you ever been from Scutari to Van?" I inquired.
+
+"No, nor hardly any one else. You had better go by the Black Sea to
+Trebizond, ride from there to Erzeroum, and it is only twelve days from
+that town to Van; but you would probably find the road blocked by the
+snow."
+
+It was clear that this priest could not help me much about my route, so
+I determined to take a map, Kiepert's Turkey in Asia, and strike a line
+across country as nearly as possible to Erzeroum. On arriving there I
+should probably be able to obtain some information about the state of
+the roads.
+
+In the meantime the priest and his companions had left the hotel—not
+together, but one by one—as the old man remarked that this would be
+less likely to attract attention. Indeed subsequently, and throughout
+my journey, I frequently remarked the same dread of being seen speaking
+to an European on the part of the Armenian priests. Whether this arises
+from the fact that they are afraid of being suspected of conspiring
+against the Turkish Government, or it is the result of a guilty
+conscience, I cannot say.
+
+Armenian newspapers frequently publish news which cannot be agreeable
+to the Government, and they are not interfered with by the authorities.
+
+Armenians are not thrown into prison or banished from the capital
+without this being at once published to the world. Then why so much
+timidity on the part of the Armenian priests? If they are not engaged
+in seeking to undermine the Government, one would have thought that
+they had nothing to fear.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+     The porter at the hotel—A little persuasive
+     force—Trains in Turkey are not very punctual—Two
+     Englishmen—Snipe-shooting—The railroad takes a circuitous
+     course—Krupp guns—The Christians are too much for the Turks
+     in a bargain—Hadem Kui—No horse waiting—The station-master—A
+     lanky, overgrown lad—Buyuk Checkmedge and Kara Bournu—A
+     branch railway required—A station-master's salary—The
+     horse—Attacked by a dog—The defence of Constantinople—A song
+     in which the Turks delighted—Good-looking Hungarian girls—The
+     handsome Italian—"I am not a barrel"—The song about the
+     Turcos—Spontaneous combustion—A special Correspondent—Algeria
+     is not Turkey, but it does not much signify.
+
+
+I had ordered the porter at my hotel to call me early on the following
+morning, as the train started at seven, and it was quite half an hour's
+walk to the station. Luckily I awoke myself, and on looking at my
+watch, found it was about half-past six. Hastily dressing, I hurried
+downstairs, and found the individual whose business it was to awake me,
+fast asleep under a billiard table in the café belonging to the hotel.
+He grumbled at being disturbed, and did not fancy the idea of carrying
+my box to the station. It was necessary to use a little persuasive
+force, so, seizing a billiard cue, I gave him a violent poke in the
+side.
+
+"Get up directly! I shall miss the train!"
+
+"Please God you will not," replied the Turk, with a yawn.
+
+I had no time to lose, so, taking the recumbent man by the collar,
+I lifted him bodily on his legs, put my bag in his hand, and, with
+another push from the billiard cue, precipitated him down the steps
+into the street.
+
+"You want me to go to the station, Effendi!" said the fellow, now
+thoroughly aroused.
+
+"Yes."
+
+"But the train will be gone."
+
+"Not if we run."
+
+"Run!" replied the porter, very much astonished, "and what will the
+Effendi do?"
+
+"Run too."
+
+And with another thrust from the billiard cue, I started him down Pera.
+
+Fortunately for me, trains in Turkey are not very punctual in starting.
+On arriving at the railway, about ten minutes past seven, I found that
+I had time to take my ticket to Hadem Kui, a small station an hour
+and a half from Constantinople. There were two Englishmen in the same
+carriage as myself, one of them an old friend whose acquaintance I had
+made some years previous in Madrid. They intended to stop at a swamp a
+few miles from the city, and spend the day snipe-shooting.
+
+Upon my remarking that the railway seemed to take a very circuitous
+course, my friend smiled.
+
+"Yes," he said, "when the line was about to be constructed, the
+Government agreed to pay so much per mile,—the result has been that,
+although the country is level, the line is not quite so straight as it
+might be."
+
+"Poor Turks!" said his companion, "they are always being abused by the
+Christians, and yet the latter make a very good thing out of them. Why,
+only the other day, a quantity of Krupp guns were brought here. The
+cost price was 150_l._ per gun, but the Turks had to pay 750_l._"
+
+"The Christians are too much for them in a bargain," he added.
+
+My fellow-travellers now left the train, which had stopped at the side
+of a wide marsh, and before our engine was again in motion, the report
+of a gun made me aware that their sport had already commenced.
+
+Half an hour later I arrived at the little station of Hadem Kui. "Is
+there a horse waiting for me?" I inquired. "No," was the answer of the
+station-master, a Hungarian. "Can I hire an animal?" "No," was the
+reply. "How far is it to the village where Colonel H—— is living?"
+"Seven miles." "What sort of a road?" "No road at all, but deep
+mud up to the horse's girths." "When does the next train go back to
+Constantinople?" "Not till seven p.m."
+
+I certainly did not bless my friend H——. To kick my heels about for
+twelve hours in a station destitute of a waiting-room, and with nothing
+to occupy my time, was not an agreeable prospect.
+
+"I tell you what you had better do," said the station-master, "send a
+boy with a note to your friend. There is probably some misunderstanding
+about the horse, and the boy will be able to get to the village and
+back again in a few hours."
+
+A lanky, overgrown lad volunteered to take the letter, and, tucking
+up his ragged trousers till his bare thighs were thoroughly exposed
+to view, he took off his boots, and started. In a few minutes I could
+see him wading through mud at least two feet deep. A heavy M. F. H.
+would have found himself considerably out of his element if suddenly
+put down with his field and hounds in that line of country. Imagine
+layers of the heaviest Bedfordshire plough-fields all heaped one on
+the top of the other, and then you will fall short in attempting to
+realize the nature of the soil. If ever an invading army were to make
+use of the railway from Adrianople for an advance upon Constantinople,
+and the line between Buyuk Checkmedge on the Sea of Marmora, and Kara
+Bournu on the Black Sea, be selected by the Turks as a last point
+from which to defend the capital, the difficulty in transporting heavy
+guns and baggage to the centre of this position would be enormous. The
+defenders will have to make a small branch railway in rear of the line
+of defence, or it will be impossible for them to supply their army.
+
+The station-master now invited me to sit down in his room, and wait
+till an answer to my note arrived. He was suffering from fever, and
+complained of the unhealthy nature of the soil. He could not sleep
+at night, and what most worried him was the incessant click of the
+telegraph dial. It was a very busy time, and any number of messages
+were always passing.
+
+"I can read them as they pass, simply by the sound," he continued, "and
+that incessant click, click, click, all night, is enough to drive a man
+mad. My brain aches. I toss from side to side. I see devils sitting on
+the telegraph-box."
+
+"Take my word for it, sir," he added, "there is nothing which breaks a
+man down so quickly as being a station-master in Turkey."
+
+"What is your salary?" I inquired.
+
+"Only 80_l._ a year. It is not enough to keep a wife," he added. "If
+I had a wife the life would be easier, but there are no women here. I
+shall end by hanging myself upon one of my own telegraph-posts—I know
+I shall if I stay here much longer."
+
+A letter now arrived from Captain F——, a friend of H——'s, to say
+that, in the absence of the latter, he had opened my letter, and in
+consequence had sent me a horse. Such a horse as he was too, with
+no shoulders, and only about thirteen hands high; when I mounted the
+animal and had let out the stirrups to their last hole they were too
+short. I had the cramp. When I rode without stirrups my legs were in
+the mud. It was a choice of evils—the cramp or the mud, and the mud
+gained the day.
+
+At last I came to the little village where Colonel H—— and his friend
+were residing. An Armenian servant now informed me that his master was
+busy surveying, but that he would soon return. The other officer, who
+had sent me the horse, was also out, but was shortly expected home.
+In about three hours both of them arrived. H—— had lost his way in
+the dark. He had been attacked by a dog; the savage brute had bitten
+his boot, and H—— had only saved himself by using his revolver. He had
+ordered a man to bring me a horse, but from the officer not being able
+to speak Turkish his instructions had been misunderstood.
+
+The room was not a large one, and only a few feet square. There was no
+other, so we shared it between us, I being accommodated on the floor.
+We were up at daybreak, and rode over the position, a succession of
+rising slopes, which looked as if nature had made them especially for
+the defence of Constantinople. The distance from the Sea of Marmora to
+the Black Sea is twenty-four or twenty-five miles;[4] but each flank,
+being covered by lakes and rivers, could be easily watched and secured.
+The extent of the real fighting-ground would be by these features
+reduced to nine or ten miles of plain, but with favourable undulations
+affording a good command over the front. Batteries could be so arranged
+as to enfilade each other at every point, and should fifty thousand
+reliable troops ever make a stand at this position, it would be a very
+difficult one to carry.
+
+This time my friend had mounted me on a different sort of animal to
+the one which I had ridden on the previous day. He was a stout grey
+cob, with good shoulders: when I mounted him the first thing which he
+did was to try and run away. I turned his head towards a neighbouring
+height, and let him gallop through the deep mud. To my astonishment on
+arriving at the summit he continued pulling. There was evidently some
+good stuff in that horse, and I determined to buy him. His owner was
+not in the village, so I left word that if he would send the cob to
+Constantinople, I would give 10_l._ for the animal—a very fair price
+taking into consideration the market price of horses in the capital.
+
+Meantime, after having said good-bye to my hospitable entertainers, I
+turned my face towards the railway-station. A line of telegraph-posts
+served me as a guide, and I arrived at the booking-office in time to
+catch the train.
+
+An acquaintance, a friend of the silk-merchant, called upon me later in
+the evening. He proposed that we should go together to a café, and hear
+a song which a French girl sang every night, and one in which the Turks
+delighted.
+
+The café, or rather music hall, was a fine building, crowded with
+men of all nationalities. Good-looking Hungarian and Italian girls
+took the place of waiters, and bustled about, receiving orders from
+the more than usually excited true believers. Many of the latter,
+in spite of the Prophet's injunction, were freely partaking of raki.
+Volumes of smoke from the cigarettes and chibouks of the spectators
+had created a dense atmosphere in the building. Some of the attendants
+were remarkably handsome girls. Indeed, as I subsequently learnt, the
+proprietor of the café would not engage an ugly woman, his idea being
+that the Turks, his chief customers, came quite as much to look at and
+talk to his waitresses, as to see the performance. It must have been
+a hard trial for the digestive organs of the better-looking of these
+girls. One in particular, a tall and very handsome Italian, with large
+dark eyes and an innocent expression, which probably her character
+belied, was in great request, the Turks always inviting her to share
+the raki or the coffee which she brought them. The performance lasted
+from eight p.m. till about two in the morning; it was a wonder that
+her constitution could stand the trial. I called for a cup of coffee,
+and when she handed it to me, I asked in Italian what she would like
+for herself. The girl's eyes sparkled on being addressed in her native
+tongue.
+
+"Nothing, signore," she said; "I am not a barrel, although the Turks
+think I am; but you are not a Turk. However, I cannot afford to offend
+them, for the proprietor pays us no wages; all I have is what the
+visitors give me. It is a dreadful life, signore. Chocolate, raki, and
+beer. I only sip, but I have to swallow a little all the same; then
+there is lemonade, coffee, mastic, and occasionally, when gentlemen
+like yourself come here—champagne. It is such a mixture. I have a pain
+sometimes," she continued, at the same time pointing to the bodice of
+her dress, "I wish to cry, but I have to run about, smile, wait upon
+the visitors, and drink with them—it is a dreadful life. Oh, if I could
+only return to Florence!"
+
+A Turk seated near me, and who was eagerly gazing at the girl, made a
+sign to her.
+
+"I must go," she said. "He is a friend of the proprietor—I dare not
+offend him."
+
+Presently she was sipping some punch from his glass. My friend caught
+my eye, and laughed.
+
+"Yes," he said, "she is adding punch to the other mixtures. Poor child,
+it will be a wonder if she does not go off by spontaneous combustion
+some day. But, hush! the famous singer is just going to give us the
+song about the Turcos."
+
+A tall and rather stout French girl now came upon the stage. Some long
+black tresses were hanging down her back. Her dress, which was made of
+white muslin, was very low in front, and a flaming red sash encircled
+her waist. The song had reference to the bravery of the Turcos, how
+they died for France, and how France loved them.
+
+The girl had a good voice. As the last notes died away in the hall, the
+Turks became greatly excited. Shouts of applause resounded through the
+building. Close to my table were two Englishmen. One of them appeared
+to be a correspondent of some newspaper. His pocket-book was open on
+the table. He was taking notes. "Patriotic song," he remarked to his
+companion, "capital scene for a graphic letter—sympathy between French
+and Turks—you see she says France loves the Turks." "Nonsense," said
+his companion, "she is singing about the Turcos in Algeria, not about
+the Turks—you have written it all wrong." The Special changed colour
+for a moment, and then muttered, "Confound it! yes! Algeria is not
+Turkey, but it does not much signify." And he went on writing.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+     Osman—Five horses for sale—An industrious man—A cemetery—A
+     wall-eyed Turk—A little black—"He ain't got no shoulders"—A
+     horse with a sore back—A roarer—The blind beggars
+     hear him coming—A Turkish horseshoe—Provisions for the
+     journey—A prince belonging to the Russian Embassy in the
+     hospital—A prince a boot-cleaner—Osman's relatives—The
+     Hôtel Royal—A stirrup-cup—Osman's religious scruples—The
+     boat for Scutari—Shipping our horses—Jealous husbands—A
+     Turk's seraglio—Was it a torpedo?—The panels of the Bey's
+     carriage—An explosion of cartridges—Readjusting the luggage—A
+     torrent of expletives.
+
+
+The following morning I was awoke by a tap at the door, and who should
+enter my room but the newly-engaged servant, Osman.
+
+"Effendi," he said, "I have five horses for you to see. They are in a
+large yard close to the hotel. Splendid horses they are too. I am so
+industrious," he added, "the Effendi will find this out for himself
+soon. I am not like other Turks—I like working; I have been running all
+over Constantinople after the horses, for I heard that the Effendi was
+in a hurry to start. When will he go and see the animals?"
+
+About half an hour later I accompanied the industrious man to a small
+plot of ground not far from Pera. It was surrounded by a high wall,
+and, judging from the number of loose stones which lay about, had once
+been a cemetery. But cemetery or not it was all the same to Osman, who
+had not the same reverence for the dead as the rest of his countrymen.
+
+"There are a great many stones," I observed.
+
+"All the better, Effendi," was the reply; "we shall ride over a number
+of stones on the road to Kars, and a little sooner or later for the
+horses does not make much difference."
+
+The steeds were now led in, accompanied by their owner, a wall-eyed
+Turk. They were not much to look at, if one estimated them from an
+English standard, but I had learnt, in previous travels that one
+cannot always judge of Eastern horses by their appearance. I desired my
+English servant, Radford, to mount the best-looking one of the lot, a
+little black, about fourteen hands high. He was very thin, and looked
+as if he had never been given a good feed of corn, but his legs were
+fine and hard. He put down his feet flat when he walked, and did not go
+on his toes, which last is a fatal defect to a horse if about to march
+for many days in succession. Radford eyed the animal from head to foot.
+
+"Lor! sir," he said, "this 'ere horse will never carry me. He ain't got
+no shoulders!"
+
+"Never mind," I replied. "Jump on him and try."
+
+There was no saddle, and my man had to mount bare back. "Very good,"
+I added, as the animal appeared to carry his burden without any
+difficulty, "take him round at a hard canter."
+
+The little brute now began to pull hard, and bounded over the rough
+stones in a way that showed he was well accustomed to such obstacles.
+
+"Does he pull?" I inquired.
+
+"Pull, sir? He pulls my harms off!"
+
+This was enough for me, and I determined to buy the animal; as a horse
+that walks well, and will pull with fourteen stone on his back, is not
+a bad one for a long journey.
+
+The next one produced for my inspection was covered with a rug, the
+other horses not being provided with any such clothing.
+
+"What is that for?" I inquired, pointing at the cloth.
+
+"Effendi, I put it on him because I was afraid that he might catch
+cold," replied the owner.
+
+"Never mind, take it off. When I buy horses I like to see them first."
+
+"He thinks, sir," remarked my faithful servant, "that we buy 'orses as
+they marry their wives—that is, without looking at them. I should not
+be surprised, sir, if that 'ere 'orse had a sore back."
+
+The man's remark proved true, and on taking off the cloth a raw place
+of at least six inches square was exposed to view.
+
+"He has a sore back," I remarked to the owner. "Take him away."
+
+"Sore back! Yes, he has; it will soon get well. The Effendi would like
+this horse though, and he is a great friend of the horse the Effendi
+has just looked at—they eat out of the same manger. The Effendi had
+better buy him."
+
+"Get on that little bay," I said to my servant, not paying any
+attention to the Turk's observation. As my man went past at a trot, I
+heard a sound which at once made me aware that there was something the
+matter with the horse's wind.
+
+"He is a roarer," I remarked.
+
+"Effendi, he makes a noise, but he is stout and strong. He would make
+a capital pack-horse."
+
+The horse was sound in other particulars, and as a roarer for slow
+marching is as good as any other animal, I determined to buy him—at the
+same time telling the owner that the fact of the horse's wind not being
+all right would considerably deteriorate from his value.
+
+"Deteriorate from his value!" said the man, his wall-eye glaring
+at me ferociously. "No, Effendi, he makes a little noise, but that
+is nothing; he is a useful horse, and when I let him out on hire in
+Constantinople he never runs over the blind beggars. He gives warning
+of his approach, and they hear him coming."
+
+I had by this time selected two more horses, and now came the knotty
+point of what price I was to give for the four.
+
+"How much do you want for them?" I inquired.
+
+"How much, Effendi? Sixty liras (Turkish pounds of 18_s._) I want, and
+not a piastre less; even then I should be a ruined man."
+
+"Sixty liras! Sixty dogs and sixty sons of dogs!" I replied, attempting
+to address him in the language easiest understood by a Turkish peasant.
+
+"Ah! Effendi," said the horse-dealer, "you know the value. To you
+there is much brain, but the Effendi's eyes will show him that sixty
+liras are nothing for the horses—besides, sixty liras, what are they?
+Sixty grains from the sand on the seashore to the gold in the Effendi's
+purse."
+
+I was not going to be bamboozled in that way: taking forty liras from
+my pocket, I showed him the money.
+
+"There," I said, "that is all I shall give you, and all that your
+horses are worth."
+
+"Look! forty liras!" The man attempted to impart to his countenance an
+indignant air, but the sight of the gold was too much for him. "Only
+forty liras!"
+
+"Yes," I said, "and if you will not sell them, I will buy my horses
+from another dealer," and I turned to go away.
+
+"No, Effendi, do not stir!" cried the owner hastily. "But _forty_
+liras—let us say forty-one—one lira more—just one—for a baksheesh."
+
+"Very well," I said, and I handed him the money.
+
+Meantime, Osman, the Turkish servant, led my newly-acquired property to
+a stable which he had engaged for me in the neighbourhood.
+
+Later on in the afternoon I received a communication from my friend
+H——, in which he said that he had sent the grey horse to Constantinople
+by the bearer of the letter, but that the owner of the animal would
+not take less than sixteen liras for him. As I had thoroughly tried the
+animal I determined to accept the offer, and my stud was now complete.
+
+The final preparations for the journey were soon made. All the horses
+were fresh shod, and now I found that a Turkish horseshoe is very
+different to the one which we use in this country. It consists of a
+thin circular piece of iron, with a very small hole in the centre, not
+bigger than a shilling; almost the entire surface of the hoof being
+thus protected by the metal.
+
+Two English saddles were bought for myself and Radford, a Turkish
+saddle was provided for Osman, and two pack-saddles for the
+baggage-horses. Saddle-bags, corn-sacks, and nose-bags had been also
+purchased, and a supply of tea and such other necessaries as would be
+difficult to obtain when once we had quitted the capital.
+
+Everything was now ready for the start, so I hastened to say good-bye
+to my numerous friends. Whilst visiting one of them—an English lady—a
+Russian acquaintance called upon her, to solicit subscriptions for a
+hospital. This building, as it appeared, was being used for all classes
+of patients, and a prince at the Russian Embassy was at that time
+occupying one of the wards.
+
+"I went to see him yesterday," said the visitor. He complains
+dreadfully of the quietness of the establishment."
+
+"Perhaps he would like a barrel organ in the passage," observed my
+hostess.
+
+"That is what I said to him," replied the lady. "If he had his own way,
+he would give a ball there before long."
+
+It would rather astonish English people if they were told that a
+person holding the position of a Secretary of Embassy was inhabiting
+a building which in this country is reserved for the impecunious, but
+no one in Russia thinks anything of such matters; there are so many
+princes. Not many years ago, a prince could have been seen cleaning the
+visitors' boots at Dusaux's Hotel in Moscow.
+
+It was Friday, December the 8th, 1876. I have always been a disbeliever
+in the sailors' superstition about leaving a port on a Friday, and
+although several of my friends, particularly the Greek, entreated me to
+postpone my departure till the following day, I determined to run the
+risk of offending the Fates, and at once to commence my journey.
+
+The street in front of the Hôtel Luxembourg was filled with a crowd of
+idlers from an early hour. It had been rumoured about that the Giaour
+was mad enough to wish to go to Kars from Scutari by land, instead of
+by the Black Sea and Erzeroum, and that he was about to start. The Turk
+had spread the news. His friends and family had come to see him off. In
+the meantime, he himself was busily engaged in loading the pack-horses,
+but occasionally found time to glance superciliously at his admiring
+and awe-struck relatives. At last everything was ready; giving Osman
+the little travelling sword, I desired him to strap it round his
+waist. The crowd of relations were now more excited than before. The
+bystanders took the liveliest interest in the proceedings. "Osman has
+got a sword," said one. "He is buckling it on," said another.
+
+Osman's air of importance increased tenfold when I desired him to sling
+my little sporting-rifle on his shoulder. There was a faint approach to
+a cheer from a little boy in the crowd. This was instantly suppressed,
+and in the midst of all the excitement we rode down the streets of
+Pera.
+
+Several friends of mine were staying at the Hôtel Royal; as we passed
+their windows they invited me to take a stirrup-cup, and in addition
+poured out a bumper for the Turk. However, Osman could not be induced
+to drink. He was more particular in this respect than many of his
+fellow-countrymen. He handed the glass to Radford. The latter was
+not displeased at the Turk's religious scruples, as he thus got two
+glasses for himself instead of one. He at once tossed off the contents,
+and smiling benignantly returned the tumbler to his companion. I now
+shook hands with my friends at the Royal, and we continued our journey
+towards the port.
+
+"Good-bye, old fellow," cried my hospitable entertainers.
+
+"We shall meet again soon," was my answer.
+
+"Let us hope this side of Hades," said another, and we rode onward
+towards Galata.
+
+An acquaintance, a Greek gentleman, accompanied me as far as the port.
+Here I discovered that one boat for Scutari had just started, and that
+it would be at least three hours before there would be another. This
+threw out my plans. I had wished to march my horses about five hours
+that day, but in consequence of the delay, and the shortness of the
+evenings at this season of the year, night would be on us before we had
+left Scutari.
+
+The steamer arrived. A wide platform was pushed out from the deck to
+the shore, and two carriages with some horses, belonging to a Turkish
+Bey, were taken on board. Then came Radford and Osman, each leading
+two horses: I followed with the little grey. The carriages and animals
+belonging to the Bey were placed towards the bow of the vessel, and the
+other horses near the engines.
+
+The sea was as calm as a duck-pond. In Osman's opinion it was
+unnecessary to tie up our steeds to the bulwarks. The animals which
+belonged to the Bey were simply held by their grooms, and stood quietly
+enough by the carriages. Everything looked _couleur de rose_, and I
+went up the ladder to a sort of raised deck, which arched over the
+place reserved for horses, cattle, and other merchandise. Here several
+Turkish ladies were sitting. They were engaged in sipping glasses
+full of water. One, who appeared to be the elder of the party, had
+some sugar in her pocket; producing it, she carefully sugared the
+tumblers of her companions, and then sugared her own. The faces of
+these ladies could be clearly seen through the very thin muslin texture
+which served them as veils. They were not prepossessing, and sadly
+wanted expression—a defect which I subsequently observed in almost
+every Turkish woman whose countenance I had the opportunity of seeing.
+We need not be surprised at this. I have been informed by the Turks
+themselves that very few women, not one per 1000, can read or write.
+They amuse themselves with gossip and eating. Their mental faculties
+become absorbed. They live for the moment, and pine after the coarser
+and more sensual pleasures. The domestic life in a Turkish family
+is often not a happy one; the elder and less favoured wives hate to
+desperation the more attractive and younger additions to the harem.
+The middle-aged spouse is goaded to madness at being deprived of those
+favours which the more comely wife is allowed to share. She endeavours
+to poison her lord's ear with respect to the new arrival. The jealous
+husband does not know what to believe, his home becomes a pandemonium.
+
+Suddenly a loud report, followed by another, and then another, aroused
+me from my reflections; a tremendous noise could be heard below our
+feet, and men's voices expostulating in anger.
+
+What had happened? One of the Turkish ladies let her tumbler fall,
+the faces of the other passengers became white. Was it a torpedo which
+General Ignatieff had set to blow up the Mohammedans, or had the engine
+burst?
+
+I hurried downstairs. The first thing which met my gaze was the black
+horse, "Obadiah"—I had named him after a favourite old charger—lying
+stretched out on deck, and my English servant seated on the animal's
+head. Osman was holding one end of the grey horse's halter, the animal
+amusing himself meanwhile by lashing out with his heels at the panels
+of the Bey's carriage. Fortunately the other horses had remained quiet.
+The Bey's servants, instead of attempting to save the panels of their
+master's carriage, vented their wrath by numerous expletives, and were
+keeping as far as possible from the scene of action.
+
+"Well, I'll be d—d!"
+
+This ejaculation, uttered in a strong Celtic accent, attracted my
+attention, as I was busily engaged holding up the grey's foreleg to
+keep him from doing any more damage to the Bey's vehicle. The forcible
+exclamation issued from the lips of an engineer who happened to be
+engaged on board the boat.
+
+"What has happened?" I asked.
+
+"Happened, sir! The Lord only knows. We were down below. There was an
+explosion on deck. I ran upstairs and saw smoke coming out of that box.
+All the horses were topsy-turvy."
+
+The box in question contained about 500 loaded cartridges, which I was
+taking for sporting purposes.
+
+"What does it all mean, Radford?" I inquired.
+
+"Lor, sir, it was that black 'orse Obadiah, as was the bottom of all
+the mischief. He is that artful. He stood quiet enough till we started
+and the paddles began to turn; he then began to kick, and frightened
+the grey. That 'ere Turk," pointing to Osman, "was a-praying by the
+side of the paddle-boxes, and not taking any account of the hanimals,
+drat him! Obadiah upset his pack-saddle and then stamped on the
+cartridge-box; some of them have gone off. Hosman left off praying
+and began to swear, that's all he did; and as for them there Turks in
+charge of the other 'orses, they did nothing. Obadiah slipped up and I
+sat on his head to keep him quiet."
+
+Luckily no great damage was done except to the Bey's carriage. We
+commenced putting the pack-saddle on Obadiah, but before this operation
+was completed our vessel arrived at Scutari. The steamer would only
+stop a few minutes at the port. There was no time to properly arrange
+the baggage. The greater part of it had to be carried out by hand. A
+crowd of idlers stood on the shore; some of them, recognizing Osman,
+came to help us in adjusting the saddle, each individual offering
+advice as to how the baggage should be strapped to the saddle; Osman
+meanwhile talking to his friends about the awful danger which he had
+incurred, and how, had it not been for him, the steamer and all the
+passengers must inevitably have gone to the bottom. The Bey's carriage
+drove past us; the servants on the box vented their indignation at the
+damage done to their master's panels in some strong language. Osman
+answered them in a torrent of expletives, which, translated into Saxon,
+would frighten a Billingsgate fishwoman. The bystanders joined in the
+chorus, and it was some time before we were ready to start.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+     Scutari—The resting-place of departed Turks—A frightened
+     horse—Obadiah—Tea and sugar in the mud—A _rahvan_, or
+     ambler—A runaway steed—Osman always praying whenever there is
+     work to be done—The grave-digger—The Hammall—Radford—Through
+     the swamp—The Khan at Moltape—A _mungo_.
+
+
+The shades of evening were falling fast as we rode through the town.
+Presently, leaving behind the dirty lanes and filthy streets, the main
+features of Scutari, we emerged upon the open country. The road was
+in a dreadful state, at least a foot of black mud was piled on the
+strata below. In order the better to avoid the dirt we rode along a
+raised path which overhung the highway, Osman and Radford each leading
+a baggage-horse. In about half an hour we arrived at a place where the
+highway ascended rapidly for a few hundred yards. The footpath rose yet
+more abruptly, and here and there large sections of it had fallen into
+the road below. We were passing by the cemetery at Scutari. Thousands
+of grave-stones which mark the resting-place of departed Turks lay
+scattered here and there. A deep silence reigned around, and the place
+appeared a desert, tenanted only by the dead. Suddenly I heard a noise
+behind me; a sound of horse's hoofs striking violently against some
+hard substance. I looked round. The first thing which met my gaze was
+the horse Obadiah, the source of all our previous difficulties, with
+his pack-saddle under the girth. In the hurry of re-saddling him at
+Scutari the yarn breastplate and crupper had not been well adjusted,
+nor had they been properly buckled. The saddle had turned, and Obadiah
+was amusing himself by a second time kicking at my cartridge-boxes,
+gun-case, and tins of tea and sugar. Clash went his iron hoof against
+one of the cases, away flew the white sugar into the black mud. A
+bang resounded from the gun-case, and that went spinning in another
+direction. Fortunately the boxes of cartridges had rolled to a little
+distance, and were just out of reach of the now infuriated beast's
+heels. Osman, in a moment of fear had released the animal's halter;
+dismounting from his own steed, he tried to get to Obadiah's head. This
+was by no means an easy task; the path was very narrow, in fact there
+was barely room enough for a horse to walk. To reach the pack animal it
+was necessary to descend to the road, which lay some feet below us, and
+then climb up the steep and muddy bank.
+
+Whilst this was being done I took charge of Osman's horse, the roarer,
+and which he had selected for his own riding, because, he said, the
+animal was a _rahvan_ or ambler. He had rubbed his trousers when he
+made this remark, and had grinned complacently: by this gesture he
+sought to convey to my mind, that his skin was tender, and that he did
+not wish to be galled during the journey.
+
+A noise in front now called my attention to that direction. The horse
+that Radford was leading had become alarmed, and in his struggles to
+release himself was half-way over the bank.
+
+"Let him go!" I cried to my servant, fearing that he would be dragged
+over the steep incline.
+
+Down fell the animal on his back, and all the remainder of my luggage
+was covered with the slimy clay. The horse was a little shaken by the
+fall and did not attempt to rise—he lay prostrate and helpless in the
+midst of the havoc which he had created. Meantime Obadiah, who had been
+frightened to death by the luggage which was hanging round his heels,
+had kicked away his trammels. Osman approached him from the bank, and
+tried to get to his head. It was in vain. The horse sprang back a yard
+or so, plunged and kicked, then slipping like his fellow steed, he
+rolled down the steep. He was none the worse for the fall, and bounding
+on his legs, dashed headlong along the road—his saddle and everything
+he had previously carried lying scattered in every direction.
+
+The sun by this time had long since set. It was nearly dark. Letting
+go Osman's horse, I galloped after the runaway, but it was useless; in
+a moment he disappeared from view. There was nothing to be done but to
+return to my party, and collect the luggage.
+
+"Our fate is a bad one," said Osman. "The horse—curse his mother—has
+gone, what shall be done? Praise be to Allah that the Effendi is not
+hurt." "I have worked very hard," he added.
+
+"It is all your fault," I remarked angrily. "It would serve you
+right if I were to break your head. You ought to have seen that the
+pack-saddle was properly put on the horse at Scutari."
+
+"Saddle, Effendi? It was all owing to the saddle. It did not fit the
+horse."
+
+"What does he say, sir?" inquired the English servant.
+
+"Say?—confound him! he says it is the fault of the saddle."
+
+"Saddle, sir! no, it ain't. It is all the fault of his confounded
+praying. Why, whenever there is any work to be done, he is always down
+on his knees and a-banging his head against the ground. Real hard work
+his praying is, sir, and no mistake. I catched him at it this morning
+in the hotel; then he had another turn on board the steamer—and,
+look, sir, there he is again. Drat him, he has taken my coat to kneel
+on!" And rushing up, my servant dragged his property from beneath the
+prostrate Mohammedan.
+
+We were some distance from Scutari, and about two hours from Moltape,
+a village in which I intended to pass the night. I determined to send
+Osman back to the town, and desired him to hire a Hammall, or man with
+a baggage-horse. In the meantime, Radford and myself could keep guard
+over our luggage.
+
+The night grew darker and darker. The white grave-stones could be
+barely discerned. Leaving my English servant to sit upon the luggage
+in the road, I waded through the mud to a cleaner spot in the cemetery.
+Sitting down on one of the broken monuments, I awaited Osman's arrival.
+Presently I heard the sound of steps close behind me. The locality does
+not bear a good reputation, so grasping my revolver, I prepared for an
+attack.
+
+"Peace be with you!" was the new comer's salutation, and in a few
+minutes I discovered that he was the grave-digger, or person in charge
+of the cemetery. His house, or hovel, was not far off, and he invited
+me to go there and share his fire. It would not have been safe to have
+left the luggage, so I declined the offer. Soon afterwards the sound of
+horses' hoofs in the distance announced the approach of Osman. He was
+accompanied by a Hammall. The latter, placing the fallen luggage upon
+his animal, jumped himself on the top of all.
+
+"We had better go back to Scutari, Effendi," said Osman. "It is late;
+there will be no village for the next three hours. In Scutari there is
+good accommodation."
+
+I had no wish to turn back. We had already lost at least half a day
+through Osman's stupidity; I resolved to continue the march to Moltape,
+and halt there for the night. Osman could start at daybreak for
+Scutari, and make inquiries about the lost horse.
+
+"Shall you find him?" I inquired of the Turk.
+
+"Find him, Effendi? of course I shall find him. I will not eat, drink,
+or sleep till my lord's property is restored;" by way of substantiating
+this statement, Osman took a piece of bread out of his pocket and began
+to eat.
+
+"Well," I observed, "you said that you were going to starve till you
+had found my horse, and you are eating already."
+
+"It is bad for a man with an empty stomach to be exposed to the night
+air. I shall be all the better able to look for the Effendi's horse
+to-morrow, and please God I will find him," was the answer.
+
+We continued our journey through the deep mud, the Hammall riding
+in front as guide. The moon rose and threw her pale shadows on
+the scene. The Hammall, who was perched up on the top of a pile of
+luggage, uttered, from time to time, shrill cries. Cracks from his
+whip resounded from the flanks of his over-taxed steed. Radford rode
+pensively in rear; the bowl of a short wooden pipe glared with the
+red-hot ashes of some tobacco. Nothing ever seemed to afflict my
+English servant. I was going to Kars—well, he must go too; if I had
+told him that I was going up in a fire balloon, he would have been
+equally ready to accompany me. I wish we had four hundred thousand men
+like him in the British army. The soldier who will ask no questions,
+will go where you like, and die in his place if you tell him to do
+so, is preferable, in my mind, to the more educated individual who
+reflects, weighs probabilities, and sometimes runs away.
+
+Now a light appeared in the distance, and then another. The swamp
+through which we had been riding was gradually replaced by harder soil.
+A few whitewashed cottages were met with at intervals along our path.
+Presently we rounded a corner, and a large village was exposed to view.
+The Hammall rode up to a house which was detached from the rest, and
+in the centre of the town. He leaped from his horse, and, coming to my
+side, held the stirrup-leather for me to dismount. We had arrived at
+a Khan, or resting-place for travellers. On lifting up the latch, or
+rather pulling at a piece of string which was used as a substitute for
+a handle, the door opened.
+
+I found myself in a large, low room. So soon as my eyes became
+accustomed to the dense atmosphere, I discovered that almost all the
+available space was filled with soldiery. On one side of the room there
+were a succession of broad wooden shelves, ascending towards the roof,
+these too were tenanted. It was difficult to put a foot down upon the
+floor without treading upon the face or body of some follower of the
+Prophet. The smell which arose from so much humanity was anything but
+agreeable. A _mungo_, or circular iron pan on a tripod, was filled with
+burning charcoal, and placed on a stool so as to be removed from the
+immediate vicinity of the sleepers. It gave out a blue and sulphurous
+flame. The charcoal had not been properly burned through previous
+to being placed in the _mungo_. It added some poisonous fumes to the
+unhealthy atmosphere.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+     The proprietor of the establishment—_Lingua franca_—Gold,
+     not paper—Gold a charm to the Greek—No rooms—The Onbashee—His
+     costume—The guard-house—A queer place—"_At gitdi!_ the horse
+     has gone!"—The Pacha at Scutari—The corporal's demeanour
+     when offered a tip—A beautiful country—The bay of Ismid—A
+     goose plump as a Georgian woman—A Zaptieh—The chief of the
+     telegraph department in Ismid—A grievance—The appearance of
+     Ismid—Washing-day—The Pacha of Ismid—Mr. Gladstone—"Gladstone
+     is what you call a Liberal, is he not?"—The Turkish
+     debt—Russian agents bring about massacres of Christians.
+
+
+The proprietor of the establishment, a Greek, slowly raised himself
+from a recumbent position. His head was bound up in what appeared to be
+a red stocking; the toe part of this article of attire hung carelessly
+over his left shoulder. He was a dirty-looking little fellow, and
+had a large wen on one side of his forehead. Nature had determined to
+make him as hideous as possible, and some fellow-mortal had added to
+her handiwork, for a large scar, barely cicatrized, and apparently
+inflicted by a knife, extended right across his face. This scar and
+the wen were, in the daytime, a perpetual resort for blue-bottle flies.
+These insects, I subsequently observed, had a great affection for the
+frontispiece of the proprietor.
+
+"What do you want?" he asked in _lingua franca_, that undefined mixture
+of Italian, French, Greek, and Spanish, which is spoken throughout the
+Mediterranean.
+
+"I want a place to sleep in."
+
+"Place to sleep in? Sleep here," and he slowly subsided into his
+original position.
+
+Osman now began to address him, and in a whining tone said that I was
+his Effendi, a great person with gold, not paper, in my pocket, and
+that I would pay liberally for accommodation. The allusion to the gold
+acted like a charm upon the Greek.
+
+"Gold!" he said. "Gold! Let me see it!"
+
+I took out a lira (Turkish pound), and spinning it carelessly in the
+air, let it fall on an earthenware dish. The coin gave out a metallic
+ring. The Greek clutched at the fallen lira; but the nimble Osman was
+too quick for him, and picking it up returned it to me.
+
+"I have no rooms but this," said the proprietor eagerly; "but I have a
+stable. Why not sleep in the stable? You want a stable for your horses,
+and I will put down some clean straw for the Effendi."
+
+Our horses were all this time tied up to a post outside. I was on the
+point of accepting his offer, so as to gain shelter for them as well as
+for ourselves, when the door opened. A strange figure loomed in sight.
+
+"The Onbashee (corporal)," said the proprietor in a cringing tone,
+springing to his feet; and seizing several soldiers who were asleep
+on a bench, he rolled them on to the floor, thus making room for the
+new arrival. The latter, a dumpy-looking man, with a fez on his head,
+red regimental trousers, and a short yellow dressing-gown, sat down
+on the bench, and beckoned to me to sit by his side. The occupants
+of the room by this time were thoroughly aroused. A small boy, the
+exact counterpart of the proprietor minus the scar and wen, speedily
+made some coffee. The fragrant beverage was duly handed first to the
+Onbashee and myself, and then to Osman and Radford, the head of the
+latter being in close proximity to the ceiling of the establishment.
+
+I addressed the corporal, and told him that I was an English traveller,
+who wanted a night's lodging.
+
+"English!" he cried, then springing to his feet he respectfully
+saluted, and said, "I thought, Effendi, that you were an Italian or
+a countryman of the Greek here," pointing to the proprietor of the
+place. "Come along, sir," leaving the building, he led me to a small
+building, apparently a guard-house, for in the room below there were
+ten soldiers, some rifles and accoutrements being suspended on a rack
+on the wall. Ascending a few rickety stairs, I entered a small lobby.
+It was about ten feet square, and had no furniture save a wooden ledge.
+
+"This is my room," said the Onbashee. "You and the other Englishman
+can sleep here. I will sleep downstairs with the men." Then bringing
+two blankets he threw them down on the ledge, saluted in a military
+fashion, and disappeared.
+
+"Queer place, sir," said Radford, looking round. "However, it is better
+than the hole downstairs. Shall I sleep here, sir, or in the stable?"
+
+"On the floor," I replied. "Go and look after the horses, and then
+bring up some rugs."
+
+At daybreak Osman started for Scutari in search of the lost horse.
+A few hours later I took my gun, and went to see if I could find any
+snipe in a marsh near the town. About six p.m. Osman returned. It was
+easy to see from his crestfallen face that he had heard no news of the
+lost Obadiah.
+
+"_At Gitdi!_ The horse has gone, Effendi," he said. "I have been to
+every farm-house near here, and no one has seen a black gelding with
+his tail cut short. Praise be to Allah that I cut all the horses' tails
+before starting; our animal will be different from the others in the
+neighbourhood, and will be easily distinguished."
+
+"I went to the Pacha at Scutari," he added, "he has given orders to the
+police to search for the horse. When he is found, he will be sent after
+the Effendi by train to Ismid."
+
+_Gitdi_ (it has gone), I began to hate that word. Later on, if our tea
+had been stolen, Osman invariably greeted me with _gitdi_. It is the
+first word which a traveller in Turkey hears, he is kept in mind of
+it during his entire journey. There was nothing to be done but to hire
+another baggage-horse, and give orders for a start at daybreak.
+
+A few minutes before leaving Moltape, I went to the corporal, and
+put in his hand a dollar (medjidi), in return for the accommodation
+he had given me. There were several soldiers present. He declined
+the present with a grandiose air, adding that his home was mine, and
+that all strangers were welcome to the abode. However, a few minutes
+later, when I was alone, he approached, and putting out his hand, said,
+"Effendi, no one is looking, I will accept a present." Human nature
+in all countries is much the same. The corporal's demeanour before the
+soldiers much resembled that of a railway porter when offered a tip in
+the presence of a railway director.
+
+We rode through a beautiful country. Our track lay across a plain. It
+was surrounded by undulating hills. Pretty villas with Venetian windows
+decked their crests. Vines, fig, and other fruit trees studded the
+rising slopes. A few hours later the path became very bad. We made our
+way across deep, half hidden ruts, which compelled us to advance with
+the greatest care for fear of breaking the horses' legs.
+
+We ascend a steep incline, and then, far away in the distance, and
+across the bay of Ismid, are cone-shaped hills covered with fleecy
+snow.
+
+The path turned, we rode along the seashore. The railway ran along the
+side of the track, now ascending in tortuous coils, now disappearing
+altogether from our view, to appear once more in the distance, and
+almost level with the azure deep. Not a ripple disturbed the surface of
+the waters; coloured rocks and stones met our gaze as we glanced into
+the abyss below; festoons of variegated sea-weed hung from the rugged
+cliffs.
+
+The sun's rays were fierce and scorching. In spite of its being the
+month of December, there was a glare as if on a July day. I was
+not sorry when, on reaching the crest of an adjacent hill, Osman
+dismounted, and suggested a halt for lunch.
+
+"A capital spot, Effendi," he remarked, "there is a spring of fresh
+water, a cave, and firewood. I have a beautiful goose, plump as a
+Georgian woman, in the saddle-bags. My brother," pointing to Radford,
+"shall cook him. Our stomachs grieve now, but soon they shall be
+comforted."
+
+He led the way to a sort of cavity in the rock. A fire was kindled, and
+the goose, the subject of Osman's admiration, was shortly simmering on
+the embers.
+
+Presently the track became worse, if possible, than before. Several
+wooden bridges over deep and narrow gullies had to be crossed. There
+were no parapets to the bridges. Here and there holes a foot square
+let us see the stream below. Then we traversed lanes of water, in some
+places up to the horses' girths. The Hammall went first, and wended his
+way with caution. Two ditches skirted the borders of the track; the
+rain had fallen heavily, and had one of our horses made a mistake or
+floundered, his rider would have found himself in at least six feet of
+water.
+
+We were nearing Ismid, the Nicomedia of ancient history. Our tired
+animals seemed aware of its proximity; they quickened their pace.
+Very shortly afterwards we rode into the town. I had sent forward a
+messenger to tell the chief of the police that an English traveller
+was coming to Ismid, and to ask him to provide me with lodgings for the
+night, there being no hotels in the place.
+
+I was met at the entrance of the town by a Zaptieh, or gendarme. Going
+before us, he led the way to a house kept by a Greek. Here I found
+two clean rooms furnished in the European fashion. The Zaptieh, after
+inquiring if I had any orders to give him, left the room, saying that
+he would report my safe arrival to the Pacha.
+
+On the morrow I received a visit from the chief of the Telegraph
+department in Ismid—an Armenian who spoke French. On showing him a
+letter of introduction which I had received at Constantinople, for the
+Christian dignitaries in Ismid, he at once became very communicative,
+and hastened to relate a grievance which, according to him, an Armenian
+had lately suffered owing to Turkish misrule. It appeared that this man
+had borrowed money from a Turk, and had given his wife's earrings and
+necklace as security for the debt. The arrangements for the loan had
+been made in the presence of my informant. "But now," he continued,
+"comes the pith of the story. The Turk died. The Armenian, paying
+the debt to the dead man's heirs, asked for his wife's necklace and
+earrings. The Turk's family would not give them up. The Armenian
+appealed to the Cadi. The Cadi would not do justice, because it was
+the word of a Christian against the testimony of a Turk; and in such
+instances an Armenian's evidence goes for nothing. However," added the
+speaker, "I telegraphed to the authorities in Constantinople. An order
+at once came for justice to be done."
+
+Later on I walked through the town. It is built in the form of a
+half-moon, and is erected on the heights around the shore. Tiers
+and tiers of houses are perched up in out-of-the-way corners. Here
+a solitary one stands aloof like an eagle's nest and far above its
+fellows. No order has been followed in the construction of these
+houses. Every sort of shape and pattern is to be seen. Many of them
+are like Swiss chalets. Their wooden walls are bright with an infinite
+variety of hues.
+
+It was, apparently, a washing-day. The nether garments and shirts
+of Turks and Christians were suspended from every window-sill. This
+apparel was of all the colours in the rainbow, and lit up the scene
+still more. There were a few well-built stone buildings—amongst them
+the palace of the Pacha. I called upon this official in the afternoon,
+and found him a tall, fine-looking man, considerably over six feet in
+height. He was seated in European fashion upon a sofa, and not squatted
+on the floor like some others of his countrymen who were present at the
+time of my visit. He spoke French fluently, and also Russian, having
+spent some years in the Turkish Consulate in Odessa; his residence
+there had not inspired him with any affection for the subjects of the
+Tzar, whom he cordially detested.
+
+"Your minister, Mr. Gladstone, hates us poor Turks quite as much as the
+Russians do," presently remarked the Pacha.
+
+"Mr. Gladstone is not a minister," I remarked, "he is not by any means
+omnipotent in England. A great many of my countrymen have already
+evinced their sympathy for your nation."
+
+"Yes," said the Pacha, "that is true, they have sent medicines to our
+wounded soldiery. Gladstone is what you call a Liberal, is he not?"
+
+"He is one of the leaders of the Liberal Party, and was its chief till
+he was turned out by the actual Government."
+
+"Ah! I remember," said the Pacha. "He told the people of England that
+they must not drink after certain hours, and quarrelled with your
+priests. I read all about it in the newspapers. It struck me as strange
+conduct in a man who calls himself a 'Liberal.' Has he many friends in
+Parliament?"
+
+"Yes, but not so many as formerly; his conduct about this Eastern
+question has drawn away some of his most influential supporters."
+
+"Well, at all events if there is war, please God we shall be allies."
+
+"Please God we shall," I replied devoutly.
+
+"You know," he continued, "that we are much stronger than people in
+Europe believe. We can put an army of 700,000 men into the field."
+
+"Praise be to Allah!" interrupted an elderly Turk who was squatted on
+the carpet, at the same time gravely stroking his white beard.
+
+"Why is it that the people in England hate us so much?" inquired the
+Pacha.
+
+"Partly on account of the excesses of your irregular soldiers in
+Bulgaria; but mainly because you repudiated your debt. How should you
+like to have lent money and then to receive no interest?"
+
+The Pacha laughed.
+
+"Yes, you are right. It was a great mistake. But that is all Russia's
+fault. Her agents brought about the revolution in the Herzegovina. Her
+functionaries encouraged Sultan Abdul Aziz in his extravagance, and
+were the main cause of the debt being repudiated. They thought that
+this would make us unpopular with England, and they were very right in
+their conjectures. There is plenty of wealth in Turkey," he continued.
+"If it were not for the impending war, we could pay some part of our
+interest now; but Russia will not let us be quiet. She compels us to
+keep up a large army. Her agents bring about massacres of Christians,
+and set the whole world against us."[5]
+
+"If there is a war, I hope that we shall cut the throats of all the
+Russians," interrupted the old gentleman on the carpet.
+
+"Allah grant that we may!" exclaimed the rest of the assembly.
+
+Coffee and pipes were now handed round, and my interview came to an
+end. The Pacha having kindly given orders for a telegram to be sent to
+Scutari, to inquire if anything had been heard of my runaway horse.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+     An Armenian Bishop—An economical refreshment—Ramazan—Smoking
+     in the streets—The Turkish Government is not so bad—The
+     Koran and a Christian witness—A telegram from the Pacha
+     at Scutari—A post-horse to Sabanja—Two Zaptieh—Turkish
+     swords—A horse lost—Four feet of mud—An ox-cart upset in
+     the mud—Woe-begone drivers—A priest during the Carlist
+     war—Turks and Christians have an extreme dislike to the
+     dread ordeal—Circassian Bashi Bazouks—Women ravished and then
+     butchered by the Russians—Sabanja—Scenery—There was to have
+     been a railway—A mule in difficulties.
+
+
+In the evening I called upon an Armenian Bishop. He lived in a quaint
+old-fashioned house in the Christian quarter of the town, the Turks
+and Armenians inhabiting different districts in Ismid, as in many other
+Turkish cities. Refreshments were now brought in on a silver tray, and
+several kinds of jam handed round in little silver dishes. The guest
+taking a spoonful of jam is expected to swallow it, he then drinks a
+glass of water. This is an economical refreshment, a very little jam
+goes a long way in the entertainment.
+
+"How do you like it?" said one of the party.
+
+"Very good," I replied, at the same time having that sort of feeling in
+my mouth which carried my memory back to boyish days, and to the grey
+powders which my old nurse used to administer, "very good."
+
+"We always treat our guests in this manner," said an old Armenian
+pompously. "It is the custom of our nation."
+
+Now the conversation turned upon the Turks in Ismid, and it was
+pleasant to hear that some of the Turkish officials were well spoken
+of, even by the Armenians.
+
+"The chief of the police here is a capital fellow," observed one of
+the company. "During the Ramazan, one of our people was smoking in
+the streets, a Mohammedan went up to him and struck him with a stick.
+The chief of the police, who happened to be passing by, saw this. He
+approached and said, 'Why did you strike that man?' 'Because he was
+smoking during Ramazan.' 'Did he put his cigarette in your eye?' 'No,'
+'Then you had no business to strike him. You shall go to prison and
+learn to behave better for the future?'"
+
+"Yes," said another of the guests; "the Turkish papers published the
+story, and highly praised the conduct of the official."
+
+"The Turkish Government is not so bad," observed a third gentleman. "It
+wishes justice to be carried out impartially throughout the empire,
+but, so long as the Cadis refuse to take the word of a Christian
+as evidence, it will be difficult for us to live with any degree of
+comfort."
+
+"After all," he continued, "this is an abuse which has crept in
+amidst the Turkish officers. The Koran says that the testimony of a
+Christian witness is to be taken as evidence, but nowadays many of the
+Mohammedans have forgotten the Koran."
+
+In the evening a telegram arrived from the Pacha at Scutari. It was to
+the effect that nothing had been heard of my horse; however, so soon as
+the animal was found he should be sent after me. This would have been
+useless. There was no rail beyond Ismid, and I intended to start the
+following morning. In consequence of this, I wrote to a friend at the
+British Embassy, to ask him, in the event of the horse being found, to
+have the animal sold at the market in Constantinople. Meantime I sent
+Osman to hire a post-horse to carry my baggage as far as Sabanja, a
+small village about twenty miles from Ismid, and on the road to Angora.
+Just as we were leaving Ismid, two Zaptieh or mounted police rode up.
+They had been ordered by the Pacha to escort me as far as Sabanja.
+Smart-looking fellows they were, too, with light blue jackets, red
+trousers, and Hessian boots. Each of them carried a repeating-rifle
+slung across his shoulder. Revolvers were stuck in the crimson sashes
+which encircled their waists. Short scimitars, but with no hilt-guards
+to protect the hand, were slung from their sword-belts.
+
+It is singular that the Turkish military authorities, who have adopted
+the modern armament in so far as fire-arms are concerned, should be
+still so backward in the manufacture of swords. A cavalry soldier armed
+with a Turkish sword without a hilt-guard would have very little chance
+if engaged in a hand-to-hand encounter with a dragoon supplied with one
+of our own weapons.
+
+After riding for about half an hour in the direction of Sabanja,
+Radford—who was leading a pack-horse, remarked to Osman,—
+
+"What have you done with the post-horse?"
+
+The Turk did not understand the question. When it was interpreted to
+him, he replied,—
+
+"The animal is in front with the Zaptieh."
+
+As it is always as well to put a Turk's statement to the test, I
+determined to trot on ahead and look for myself. The Zaptieh had
+not seen the horse. It appeared that after loading him, Osman had
+started the animal, much in the same way as an Irishman does a pig,
+with the object of driving him before our party. We now all dispersed
+in different directions, and finally, after a two hours' search,
+discovered the animal tied up by the side of a Khan, an old woman who
+had observed the horse wandering about having attached him to a post.
+
+The track now became much worse than anything I had previously seen. In
+many places there were quite four feet of mud. It reached our horses'
+girths, and with the greatest difficulty we were able to force a
+passage.
+
+Presently we came to a hollow in the path. Here a cart drawn by four
+oxen was at a standstill. The bullocks, with only their necks and
+shoulders out of the mud, gazed plaintively before them. The two
+drivers had taken off their trousers and under-clothes; their shirts
+were tucked up to their armpits; they waded through the black slime,
+and goaded the bullocks forward.
+
+A creaking noise was heard from the ponderous wheels. The four bullocks
+put forth all their strength; it was a useless effort, one of them
+pulled the cart a little to one side, the next instant it was upset and
+half buried in the mire. The two men with naught on them save little
+red fez caps and with their tucked-up shirts, presented a doleful
+picture. They were not burdened with much flesh, and ribs and shoulder
+bones were prominently thrown into relief by the coating of mud which
+reached as high as their waists. One poor fellow, wading up to us,
+asked Osman to give him a light for his pipe. The other one, looking
+more woe-begotten, if possible, than his fellow, had no pipe, and
+mournfully asked for a cigarette.
+
+"Effendi," said Osman, "this is a dreadful place. We may be upset. Our
+horses will not get through. Better go back to Ismid and wait there
+till the mud becomes hard."
+
+"No; go on. Horses can march where bullocks cannot."
+
+Osman turned white, he was riding a little in advance of me, and did
+not at all like being sent forward to experiment upon the depth of the
+mire.
+
+"He is a poor creature," observed Radford, contemptuously, "Lor,
+sir, what else can we expect of them? They don't drink no beer. They
+turn hup their noses at wine. Hosman's blood ain't no thicker than
+ditch-water—I will lay a pound it ain't."
+
+Our saddle-bags were covered with mud when we gained a footing on
+the other side. Osman, riding up to my side, congratulated himself on
+having guided us through in safety.
+
+"Your face was very white," I observed.
+
+"Yes, Effendi, my blood had turned to milk. It was not for myself, it
+was for the Effendi. I thought that he might be suffocated. Osman is
+yours, you can do with him what you like."
+
+All these were very pretty speeches; however, I had been sufficiently
+often in the East to know how to appreciate them at their true value.
+I felt tolerably certain that if Osman's courage was ever put to the
+test, he would be found to value his existence in this world more than
+the society of a million beautiful wives in the world to come.
+
+After all, he would have been no exception to mankind in general. I
+remember during the last Carlist war hearing a story about a priest
+who, on the eve of an expected battle, addressed the soldiers in his
+battalion, and informed them that whoever was slain in the morrow's
+fight should sup with Nuestro Señor in Paradise. The morrow came, the
+battle raged, and the Carlists were beaten—the priest's battalion being
+the first to run away, headed by the divine himself, who, tucking
+up his cassock, ran as fast as his legs could carry him. A soldier
+touched the reverend gentleman on the shoulder, and said, "You told
+us, my father, that whoever was slain in to-day's fight should sup
+in Paradise, but you are running away." "My son," replied the Cura,
+who was very much out of breath, "I, I—never sup—I suffer from a weak
+digestion—I only dine." Some people in England believe that a doctrine
+of predestination makes the Turkish soldiers indifferent to death. This
+may be true in a few isolated instances; but, as a rule, both Turks and
+Christians have an extreme dislike to the dread ordeal.
+
+The track became firmer. We overtook some Bashi Bazouks returning
+from Bulgaria. They were most of them Circassians, and one could
+speak Russian. He was very indignant at having been ordered home, and
+brandishing his long lance, with bright steel point at least twelve
+inches long, regretted that he had lost the opportunity of transfixing
+a few giaour Russians.
+
+"Did you kill many women?" I inquired.
+
+"There were some killed," he replied. "It was a pity. We were sorry for
+it; but what would you have our men do? Some of their own mothers and
+sisters had been ravished and then butchered by the Russians."
+
+"Have any of your relatives been treated in this way?" I inquired.
+
+"No," he said, "but in a village not far from Gumri, some horrible
+cruelties have recently taken place, many women and children were
+slain, and all because they wished to leave Russia and go to Turkey."
+
+"If my mother or sister had been killed, I should not be particular as
+to how I avenged her," he continued. "These cowardly Russians set us
+the example."
+
+There was no sort of similarity in the attire of the Bashi Bazouks.
+Each man had dressed himself according to his fancy; the broad
+sashes around their waists were stuck full of pistols and daggers.
+The fire-arms, too, were of the most primitive kind; some men had
+old-fashioned muskets of the Tower pattern, and others were armed
+with double-barrelled guns, which had been converted from flint to
+percussion. Their horses looked hard and fit for work, they were as a
+rule not more than fourteen hands high, and their rough shaggy coats
+reminded me a little of the Cossack horses which I have seen in the
+neighbourhood of the Don.
+
+The scenery improves as we approach Sabanja. The flat country
+previously traversed gives way to rising mountains. They bound our
+view towards the West. On my bridle-hand is a wide lake. It lies like
+a mirror almost at our feet. Many coloured grasses and shrubs clothe
+the slopes which lead down to the limpid water. Acres upon acres
+of rich grass-land—such as would make the mouth of a Leicestershire
+farmer water with envy—surround Sabanja on every side. We ride into the
+village; it consists of about 200 houses, mostly built of dried mud,
+and with much difficulty I obtain accommodation for the night.
+
+Long before daybreak we were in the saddle. Our road wound through
+mountain passes. Huge clouds of mist slowly rose from the surface of
+the lake: they floated away into space, and appeared like icebergs as
+seen in the horizon. Now we rode by a place where preparations had been
+made for the construction of a railway. Sleepers were lying by the side
+of a partly-made embankment. On inquiry, no work had been going on for
+two years. There was to have been a railway to Angora, but "Para yoke,
+there is no money," was the answer to my questions on the subject.
+
+Presently we came up to a caravan of mules laden with tea and bound
+for Angora. The road was very narrow, there was barely room for two
+horses abreast. One mule, turning his head towards the bank, blocked
+up the entire path; a blow from our Zaptieh's whip recalled him to
+consciousness. Backing a few yards he slipped, and rolled with his
+burden down the slope. The owner cursed, and the other muleteers coming
+up seemed rather to enjoy his discomforture.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+     Camels—The Sakaria—Geiweh—Yakoob Khan—Kashgar—The
+     Greeks in league with the Tzar—The Kara Su—A strategic
+     position—Terekli—Bashi Bazouks firing at a target—The
+     river Goonook—A black slave—Gondokoro—Abou Saood—How to
+     become rich—Set a slave to catch a slave—_Sharab_ makes
+     one gay—Mudurlu—Absence of shops—_Toujours poulet_—English
+     manufactures in Anatolia—A Circassian Zaptieh—A precipice—A
+     baggage-horse upset.
+
+
+The road became more level. We encountered caravans of camels, the
+animals not being led by a cord attached to a peg through the nose, but
+by a halter loosely fastened round the neck.
+
+They were fine beasts and covered with shaggy hair. This, I was
+informed, is cut off them at certain seasons in the year, and is then
+converted into a material for tents and rugs. Each caravan was headed
+by a man riding a donkey, the pace of the latter being if anything a
+little superior to that of the huge camels behind them.
+
+We continued along the left bank of the river Sakaria, a rapid stream,
+sixty yards wide and with steep banks; presently we crossed it on
+a stone bridge, very much out of repair. The centre part had fallen
+away. This had been replaced by wooden beams covered with loose earth.
+Presently we came to a large valley abounding with corn, vines, and
+mulberry-trees, and I halted for the night in the village of Geiweh.
+The Mudir, a sort of local mayor, came out to meet us, and insisted
+that I should be his guest. He was a very communicative man, and
+informed me that Yakoob Khan was about to bring an army of 50,000 men
+to assist the Sultan.
+
+"How will he come?" I inquired.
+
+"By the sea," remarked my host, his geographical knowledge about
+Kashgar not being very extensive. He next informed me that Persia was
+supposed to be very friendly towards Russia, and that the Turks hated
+the Persians, but liked the Christians, with the exception of the
+Greeks, whom they believed to be in league with the Tzar.
+
+Shortly after leaving Geiweh, the valley takes a circular form, and is
+at least three miles in diameter; hills with slopes well adapted for
+artillery fire surround it on every side. The little stream Kara Su,
+which is only knee deep, traverses the district, and finds its way a
+few miles further down into the Sakaria. The Geiweh valley would be a
+magnificent position into which to entice a careless general. The exit
+towards the east is by a steep ravine with precipitous banks, and on
+the west it is blocked by the Sakaria.
+
+We now reached Terekli, a small town with about 800 houses. Every
+house was full of soldiers, who were _en route_ to the capital. The
+sun was descending over the mountain tops as we rode through the narrow
+streets. Hundreds of Bashi Bazouks were performing wild evolutions in
+the plain below; some men were firing at a target from horseback at a
+gallop, others whirling their rifles about to the imminent danger of
+the bystanders. The many coloured dresses of this guerilla soldiery
+and of the lookers-on, lit up the surroundings of the landscape. The
+wild shouts of the horsemen re-echoed over the mountains. From the
+distant peaks the bleating of the goats could be faintly heard, as the
+shepherds were driving them home for shelter. This sound was mingled
+with the lowing of cattle and the rippling of the stream below. It was
+a romantic picture. It vividly recalled to my mind some scenes in the
+Basque provinces during the late Carlist war.
+
+The soldiers started at four the following morning, singing in chorus
+as they marched through the streets. An hour later we continued our
+journey through a mountainous district strewed with blocks of granite,
+and soon afterwards crossed the little river Goonook, another tributary
+of the Sakaria.[6] Here the scenery is very wild; the hills are of all
+shapes and forms, as if cast down at haphazard by the Titans of old.
+Now we find a series of natural bastions and ramparts, looking as if
+they had been chiselled out of the hard white rocks, and then approach
+a slate mountain, large black stones lying about in endless profusion.
+Presently we ride along a path bounded on both sides by a precipice.
+Our track twines like a silver thread amidst the crags which hide the
+way before us.
+
+We round a corner. A small village is seen below, Torbali is reached,
+and a Bey, the great man of the place, invites us to share his
+dwelling.
+
+A little later, a black slave brought me as a present from his master,
+some small trout and fresh eggs. The slave could talk Arabic. He had
+been born near Gondokoro, and had been kidnapped from that part of the
+world by a party of Arabs under Sir Samuel Baker's _bête noir_, Abou
+Saood. I asked him if he would like to return to his own country.
+
+"Yes," he said, "if the Effendi is going there with Abou Saood. We
+could then catch plenty of slaves."
+
+"I know where to find them," he added, "we should soon become rich."
+
+There is an old proverb, "Set a thief to catch a thief," but here
+it seemed equally applicable to slaves. I was struck by the extreme
+eagerness to kidnap his countrymen which was evinced by this negro
+gentleman.
+
+"Well," I said, "how are you treated by your master?"
+
+"He is a good man," was the reply, "there is plenty to eat, and not
+much to do."
+
+"One thing is bad here," he added, "the master does not drink _sharab_
+(wine). I like _sharab_—lots of _sharab_, it makes one gay. Will the
+Effendi give me a little _sharab_?"
+
+"I have not any. I do not drink myself."
+
+"And yet you are rich," said the slave. "You have money to buy it,
+happy man that you are. If I were like you I would drink, drink, drink,
+all day and all night!"
+
+"But Osman does not drink, he attends to the Prophet's laws."
+
+"Osman is a horse; he does not know what is good," was the reply.
+
+At this moment the voice of the Bey was heard. "_Gell!_" (come)
+resounded through the building; the negro, leaving me, hurried off to
+his master.
+
+It was a nine hours' march to Mudurlu, our next halting-place, the
+route leading through a very mountainous district. The village, or
+small town, of Mudurlu contains 800 mud houses, which, at the average
+rate of five people to a family, would give about 4000 inhabitants. The
+traveller, when journeying in this part of Anatolia, is much struck by
+the absence of shops. He may pass through village after village, small
+town after small town, and, unless it be market day, he will be unable
+to purchase anything.
+
+"Can I buy some meat?" I would inquire of Osman.
+
+"We will see, Effendi. I will run to the Khan, and inquire of the
+people there."
+
+This was Osman's favourite amusement. Under the pretence of making
+purchases, he would go to the different Khans, talk for some time to
+the assembled villagers about his own merits, drink several cups of
+coffee, and return.
+
+"Well, where is the meat?"
+
+"Effendi, there is no meat."
+
+"Have you been to look?"
+
+"Look, Effendi! My clothes are moist with perspiration. But there are
+some chickens; they will do for our dinner."
+
+This was the daily food—chicken. It is not a bad diet if a man is
+living a sedentary life, and not taking much exercise, but after
+a nine hours' ride he requires something a little more nourishing.
+_Toujours perdrix_ was too much for a French cardinal; if the holy
+gentleman had been riding through Turkey, he would have found _toujours
+poulet_ an equally unsubstantial diet. A crowd assembled to see us
+depart. The people in Mudurlu taking as much interest in an Englishman
+as the inhabitants of London would take in a chimpanzee or newly
+arrived gorilla. Asiatics have a very high opinion of our skill as
+manufacturers. English goods, can be met with in almost every large
+town in Anatolia, and the Turks prefer English merchandise to the
+cheaper but inferior articles sent from Belgium or America.
+
+The Zaptieh who went with me was a magnificent-looking fellow. Picture
+to yourself a tall, dark Circassian, with large piercing eyes, and
+carefully trimmed beard—a striking contrast to the huge white turban
+which surrounded his fez. He was dressed in a green jacket with
+red facings; a blue waistcoat peered from beneath it, and a pair of
+green trousers and red leather boots covered his extremities. He was
+armed with a sword and revolver, and, when the road permitted, was
+continually exercising his horse. Now he would break into a gallop,
+go at headlong speed for fifty yards, then, pulling his steed almost
+on his haunches, he would start in another direction, and, bending
+from the saddle-bow, touch the ground. All this was done with the most
+consummate grace and ease—in fact, as if horse and rider were one.
+
+Soon we left behind us the light sandy soil which admitted of such-like
+evolutions. A chain of steep heights had to be passed. The mud became
+at each moment deeper. The baggage animals had great difficulty
+in ascending with their loads. We were struggling up an almost
+perpendicular height. At our feet and at least forty yards below yawned
+a deep abyss. The path itself was in no place more than ten feet wide.
+The sound of an oath issuing from Osman's lips attracted my attention.
+One baggage-horse lay on the ground; he was kicking violently, and his
+head and shoulders were over the precipice. Osman had thrown my rifle
+into the mud, so as to be able to use his hands more freely, and was
+endeavouring to make his way to the fallen animal. The Turk's high
+boots came half off each time he lifted his feet, owing to the sticky
+nature of the soil. Luckily, perhaps, for us it was so sticky, the
+gun-case, which was buried in the clay, kept the horse from rolling.
+The Circassian and Radford had time to reach his head. Pulling off
+the pack-saddle, they divided the luggage among the other animals. We
+gradually gained the summit of the hill.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+     Nalihan—Armenian, Turkish, and Circassian visitors—The state
+     of the roads—Will there be war?—The Imaum—The Servians—A
+     bellicose old farmer—The Armenians friends with the
+     Russians—Sunnites and Shiites—Scenery near Nalihan—Alatai
+     river—A Turkish counterpane—Turkish beds—Osman's
+     _Yorgan_—Osman's wife—A girl with eyes like a hare, and
+     plump as a turkey—The farmer's nuptial couch—An uncultivated
+     district—An old Khan—A refuge for travellers—An invalid
+     soldier—A Christian would have let me die like a dog—The
+     votaries of Christianity in the East.
+
+
+It was quite dark when we reached Nalihan, a village with about 400
+houses, and situated in a corn-growing district. I halted at the house
+of the Caimacan. He at once invited me to take up my abode there for
+the night. Presently several visitors appeared—Armenians, Turks, and
+Circassians—all eager to question the new arrival. I was seated in
+the place of honour, on a rug near the fire; the Caimacan, who was
+enveloped in a fur-lined dressing-gown, sat next me. The rest of the
+company took precedence according to the amount of this world's goods
+which each one possessed—the man who had 100 cows being seated next
+to the governor, and the humble possessor of a mule or a few sheep
+squatting humbly by the door.
+
+Asiatics are proverbially reticent. My visitors stared at each other,
+and did not say a word. At last the Caimacan broke the silence. He was
+wrapped up in a fur dressing-gown, and looked like an animated bundle.
+He gave a little cough, and then said, "Is there any news? if so tell
+us something." Now the inhabitants of Asia Minor do not talk about the
+weather—the state of the roads replaces that topic of conversation so
+interesting to English people.
+
+"The roads are very bad," I replied.
+
+To this there was no dissent, everybody chorussed the wish for a
+railway.
+
+"Do you think that one will ever be made?" inquired the Caimacan.
+
+"Probably when you have some money in the exchequer."
+
+"We are very poor; why does not your nation lend us some gold?"
+
+"We have already given you more than a hundred millions; with that
+money you might have made railways in every part of Anatolia."
+
+"Will there be war?" asked an Imaum (priest.)
+
+"I do not know."
+
+"If there is," he added, "I shall go—all the Imaums will go; we will
+fight by the side of our countrymen. We will kill all the Muscovites."
+
+"Has it not occurred to you," I here remarked, "that perhaps they may
+kill all the Turks?"
+
+"Impossible! Allah and the Prophet are on our side; they will fight for
+the faithful."
+
+"What do you think yourself?" now inquired the Caimacan; "will Russia
+beat us?"
+
+"Certainly—that is, if you have no European allies."
+
+"Why so?"
+
+"Because, if your Government had to put out all its strength to conquer
+the Servians assisted by only 12,000 Russians, what opposition will it
+be able to make to an army of 700,000 Muscovites?"
+
+"May their mothers be defiled!" said an old farmer. "They are always
+interfering with us. All my sons have gone to the war, and I—well, if
+the Padishah wants me, I will go too."
+
+He was apparently an octogenarian. This announcement on his part was
+received with great applause by the rest of the company.
+
+"Why do you not give the Armenians arms, and make them assist?" I
+inquired.
+
+"They are friends with the Russians," said the Imaum. "They would turn
+against us. Have you Armenians in your country?"
+
+"No."
+
+"But you are a Christian, and they are Christians—you must be the same."
+
+I now had to explain to the company that there is as much difference
+between an English Protestant and an Armenian Christian, as between a
+Sunnite and a Shiite.
+
+"And do you hate the Armenians as much as the Shiites hate us?"
+
+"We do not hate anybody. Our religion does not allow us to do so."
+
+"You Christians are a strange people," said the priest. Rising, he left
+the room, followed by the rest of the visitors.
+
+The scenery is very lovely in this neighbourhood, and as we ascended
+an incline which leads in the direction of Angora, I could not help
+wishing that I had been born a painter, in order to have placed on
+canvas a picture of the landscape. A succession of hills, each one
+loftier than its fellow, broke upon us as we climbed the steep. They
+were of all forms, shades, and colours, ash-grey, blue, vermillion,
+robed in imperial purple, and dotted with patches of vegetation. Our
+road wound amidst these chameleon-like heights. Silvery rivulets
+streamed down the sides of the many coloured hills. A rising sun
+showered its gleaming rays upon the sparkling cascades. They flashed
+and reflected the tints and shadows. A gurgling sound of many waters
+arose from the depths below.
+
+We reach the summit of the highest hill. The scene changes. We look
+down upon a vast plain. It is surrounded on all sides by undulating
+heights. The white sandy soil of the valley throws still more into
+relief the many-coloured mountains. Patches of snow deck the more
+distant peaks. The sun is dispelling the flossy clouds which overhang
+the loftier crags. The filmy vapour floats away into space; caressing
+for a few moments the mountains' crests, it is wafted onward, and then
+disappears from our view.
+
+Now we crossed a rapid stream, about thirty yards wide, and known as
+the Alatai river. A fragile bridge spans the waters. Soon afterwards we
+put up for the night at a farm-house in the village of Tchairhana. The
+proprietor, a jolly-looking Turk, received us very hospitably. Later on
+in the evening he brought me a large _yorgan_, or Turkish counterpane,
+with the remark that possibly the Effendi might feel cold during the
+night.
+
+The Turkish beds are very primitive; no bedstead being used. One or
+two mattresses are laid on the floor, the _yorgan_ takes the place of
+sheets or blankets. It consists of a silk quilt, generally lined with
+linen, and stuffed with feathers. These quilts pass from father to son,
+and are greatly prized by the Turks. The farmer, to make me appreciate
+his attention the more highly, remarked that the _yorgan_ had been used
+by his grandfather, as well as by his father on their wedding-nights,
+and that he himself had employed it on a similar occasion only a few
+weeks previously.
+
+Osman, now interrupted the speaker with the remark that in his family
+there was also a wonderful _yorgan_—something quite out of the common,
+it was so beautiful that neither his wife nor himself liked to use
+it—and that this one was like a furze bush in comparison.
+
+"So you are married, Osman?" I remarked.
+
+"Yes; but I have not seen my wife for three years."
+
+"Do you love her very much?"
+
+"She is a good cook. She makes soup which is more filling than even my
+brother's here," pointing to Radford.
+
+"Is she pretty?"
+
+"Effendi, I could not afford to marry a good-looking girl. There was
+one in our village—such a pretty one, with eyes like a hare and plump
+as a turkey—but she could not cook, and her father wanted too much for
+her."
+
+"Well, what did you give for your present wife?"
+
+"Ten liras (Turkish pounds), but she did not weigh more than forty
+okas (about 100 lbs). She was very cheap. However, her eyes are not
+quite straight, they look in different directions. But that does not
+signify—she can cook."
+
+"Yes," said the farmer, "a good cook, Effendi, that is what I said to
+myself when I wanted a wife. Looks don't last, but cooking is an art
+which the Prophet himself did not despise."
+
+I had no reason to congratulate myself on being the occupant of the
+farmer's nuptial couch. It was very old and very beautiful, but it was
+full of fleas, and they gave me no rest.
+
+"You ought to burn that quilt," I observed next morning to the farmer;
+"I have not closed my eyes during the entire night."
+
+"What, burn my grandfather's marriage _yorgan_—my father's _yorgan_,
+and my own _yorgan_! Never, Effendi! There are fleas, it is true, but
+they will die, and the quilt will do for my son and his wife, if ever
+he has one."
+
+The country which we next traversed was entirely uncultivated, although
+it would have well repaid a farmer. This, however, is the case with
+millions of acres in Turkey. There are no labourers. The country is
+depopulated to the last degree, and land which might produce wheat
+enough for the whole of Great Britain is left fallow.
+
+Presently we came to an old Khan. It had been built by a former sultan,
+as a refuge for travellers during the winter. At this season of the
+year the ground is sometimes covered with snow for several weeks in
+succession, and travelling is very dangerous. Two soldiers were the
+sole tenants of the building. Whilst I was performing my ablutions
+in the open air, one of them came to me and asked for a little tea.
+His comrade was ill, and tea he thought would be good for him. I went
+to look at the invalid. He was lying on a dirty mattress, and was
+shivering violently. It was clearly a case of fever, so taking some
+quinine from my medicine-chest, I administered a dose, and directed his
+comrade to procure a clean bed for the sufferer. The sick man was very
+grateful. Eagerly seizing my hand, he kissed it.
+
+"What countryman are you?"
+
+"I am English."
+
+"Your religion is not that of Islam?"
+
+"No."
+
+"What are you?"
+
+"I am a Protestant."
+
+"Protestant," repeated the poor fellow, "I shall remember that."
+
+"A Christian," he continued, "even if he had the medicine, would have
+let me die like a dog."
+
+It was very clear that the sufferer had not much opinion of the
+Armenian and Greek Christians. But this was no solitary expressed
+opinion. Throughout my journey, I found Armenians and Greeks equally
+despised by the Mohammedans. It is a great pity that the votaries of
+Christianity in the East should have brought the only pure religion
+into so great disrepute.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+     Radford and Osman—The quarrel—Do the Roossians kiss each
+     other?—Bei Bazar—The pig tobacco—Osman's honesty—Forage
+     for five horses—It is a good sign in a horse to be always
+     hungry—The Tchechmet river—The Mudir at Istanos—The Cadi's
+     mule—The tradition about Istanos—Caverns formerly inhabited
+     by marauders—A chasm—The entrance to the caverns—A levee of
+     the inhabitants—No newspapers in the villages—An Armenian
+     priest—The furniture of the room—Has the Conference
+     commenced?—What is it all about?—Russia is strong and we are
+     weak—The other Powers are afraid of Russia—Will England be
+     our ally?—Are the Christians tortured?—Here we get on very
+     well with the Mussulmans—The pack-saddle.
+
+
+There was something on my English servant's mind that evening. He did
+not look happy, and eyed Osman from time to time with lowering looks.
+
+"My brother is angry with me, Effendi," said the Turk, in answer to my
+inquiries. "When he speaks I do not understand, when I speak he does
+not know what I say."
+
+"What is the matter, Radford?" I asked.
+
+"Please, sir, I ain't had no dinner. I did not prepare anything for
+you as the cook in the house was a preparing it. Well, when you had
+finished, and Osman had brought out the dishes, I thought that I should
+get something to eat. But, no sir! for Osman invited a lot of dirty
+Turks to come and sit round the victuals. Some of the chaps had just
+come out of the stable, and their hands were that dirty. Then they
+began a shoving them into the dishes and a licking their fingers. It
+turned me hup, that it did. Osman ought to know better, sir. Whenever
+I cooks for you I always give him a tit-bit for himself."
+
+I now explained the matter to Osman, and at the same time informed him
+that in future he must look after his English companion at dinner-time.
+The difficulty was amicably arranged, and the two men shook hands
+together. Osman wishing to show his affection in a more demonstrative
+manner, this, however, was not appreciated by my domestic.
+
+"Lor! how they kisses each other, just like a lot of great girls. Do
+the Roossians kiss each other?"
+
+"Yes, Radford."
+
+"They must be a poor lot then, sir. I have always heard that one
+Englishman could lick two Frenchmen, and I believed it; but I'll be
+blessed if I could not lick half-a-dozen Roossians, if they have no
+more in them than these 'ere dirty Turks."
+
+We left Bei Bazar at daybreak. Osman, as usual, did not take the
+trouble to lead one of the baggage-horses, but drove the animal before
+him. Presently we passed through a narrow passage. On each side were
+two walls; the pack-saddle struck against one them, and Radford's bag,
+containing the article which he prized perhaps most in the world, some
+pig tobacco, was torn open.
+
+"I never seed such a fellow as that Osman," exclaimed my indignant
+servant, "he is always a telling of us as how he is industrious, and if
+there is a ha'porth of work to do he will borrow a penny and give it to
+some chap to do the job for him. I believe, sir, as how that fellow is
+a cheating the horses of their forage. He told me that he fed them in
+the morning before I was up. He is a liar he is. I was dressed a long
+time before him, and when he did show himself, he was busy the whole
+time a praying and a doing something with a little gallipot he carries
+in his saddle-bags. I don't believe the horses have had a feed of corn
+this twenty-four hours."
+
+I began myself to be a little sceptical about Osman's honesty. I was
+paying as much for the forage of the five horses as if I had been in
+England. The poor brutes were getting thinner every day. I determined
+to stop at a farmhouse and buy some barley. On giving this to the
+horses, they ate it ravenously, thus confirming my suspicions.
+
+"Osman, you did not feed the horses this morning!" I exclaimed.
+
+"Feed them, Effendi! I fed all of them!"
+
+"But see how hungry they are, they have eaten all the barley you have
+just given them."
+
+"Yes, sir, they are wonderful horses. They are always hungry. It is a
+good sign in a horse to be always hungry."
+
+I was not to be taken in by this remark, and so desired Radford in
+future to see the horses fed. At the same time I resolved to keep a
+sharp look-out on Osman. It was true that a considerable portion of
+his time was spent in praying; however, I began to be of my English
+servant's opinion, that when the Turk was not engaged in prayer, he was
+either planning or executing a theft, and that all these devotions were
+performed merely with the view of throwing me off my guard.
+
+We crossed the Tchechmet; it is a tributary of the Sakaria river, and
+about thirty yards wide. There was a wooden bridge over the stream,
+but without any parapets; the height from the water being about
+twelve feet. This river is fordable in many places, the banks are not
+precipitous, and the bottom is firm.
+
+A messenger, sent forward from the village of Ayash, had informed
+the Mudir at Istanos, our next station, that an English traveller
+was on the road. The official, attended by the Cadi and two or three
+Zaptiehs, came out to meet us. All the party, with the exception of the
+gendarmes, were clad in long dark blue dressing-gowns, which draggled
+some distance below the riders' stirrups. The mule which the Cadi
+rode was not of a quiet disposition; from time to time he kicked as
+violently as a mule can kick, at his master's robe, the Cadi saving
+himself by clinging convulsively to the high pommel of his saddle.
+
+Istanos is a little distance from the direct road to Angora. There
+was no other good halting-place in the neighbourhood, so I determined
+to make a slight detour and remain there for the night—the more
+particularly as Istanos is a village of historic fame, the tradition
+being still extant, that it is the place[7] where Alexander the Great
+cut the Gordian knot. The village, which contains 400 houses—half
+belonging to Armenians, half to Turks—is on the right bank of the river
+Owas. A lofty rock overhangs the stream, and according to the Mudir,
+there were several huge caverns which in days long gone by had been
+inhabited by bands of marauders.
+
+Later on, I procured a guide, and walked to the foot of the rock. A
+narrow pathway was cut in the solid stone. The track was not more than
+twelve inches wide, as we ascended it became narrower at every moment.
+At last we arrived at a spot where the path had given way. There was a
+chasm about twelve feet wide. The guide hesitated, and no wonder, for
+if he had essayed the leap and missed it, he must have fallen at least
+a hundred feet on to the crags below.
+
+"Effendi," he said, "I will try and cross if you like, but if my foot
+slips I shall be killed. You can see the entrance to the caverns from
+the place where you are standing."
+
+It was not possible, even if I had wished it, to pass him and try the
+jump myself. The sun was nearly down, and ere a rope could be brought,
+night would be upon us. Reluctantly I retraced my steps, having to go
+backward for some distance owing to the narrowness of the ledge. Should
+any other traveller chance to visit Istanos, and be able to stay there
+a day or two, it would be well worth his while to procure a rope and
+examine these, as far as I can learn, unexplored grottos.
+
+On returning to the Mudir's house, I found a levee of the principal
+inhabitants, Armenians as well as Turks. I was then informed that they
+had come to welcome me to their village. The real reason being that
+they wished to hear the latest news from Constantinople. No newspapers
+find their way to these out-of-the-way villages. The inhabitants can
+only learn what is going on in the capital through the arrival of a
+traveller.
+
+An old Armenian priest was one of the visitors. He sat by the side of
+the Mudir, on a raised platform in the centre of the room. The legs of
+these two gentlemen were entirely hid from view, and although the room
+was very chilly where I was sitting, the rest of the party did not seem
+to feel the low temperature. I now discovered that there was a hole in
+the platform. A pan of live charcoal had been placed in the recess.
+The natives, enveloped in furs, and with their feet over the embers,
+were able to withstand the cold. The platform was partly covered with
+a Persian rug. A divan alongside the walls made up the furniture of
+the room. In the background and near the door stood the servants of
+the Mudir, and the less important inhabitants. It was not considered
+etiquette for them to sit in the presence of their superiors. They
+remained with arms folded and eyes bent down in token of humility. When
+the Mudir thought that they had humbled themselves sufficiently, he
+made a sign to them. They all squatted down on their haunches.
+
+"Has the Conference commenced?" inquired the Mudir.
+
+"Yes."
+
+"What is it all about?" said another old Turk, the Cadi.
+
+"It is to see if arrangements can be made so as to prevent war," I
+replied.
+
+"But we do not want to go to war with any one," said the Mudir. "Russia
+wishes to go to war with us."
+
+"Why is the Conference not held at St. Petersburg?" asked another of
+the visitors.
+
+"Because Russia is strong and we are weak—the other powers are afraid
+of Russia," said the Cadi.
+
+"Do Englishmen like Russia?" inquired the Mudir.
+
+"Some do, and some do not," I replied.
+
+"Do you?"
+
+"I like the people, but do not like the government."
+
+"Why?"
+
+"Because it is a despotic form of government, and in my opinion all
+despotisms are bad."
+
+"I like to hear that," said the Mudir.
+
+"So do I," said each one of the assembled guests, taking the cue from
+the governor.
+
+"Will England be our ally in the case of war?" asked the Cadi.
+
+"I do not know, but I hope so."
+
+Some one now entered and spoke a few words to the Mudir. The latter
+left the room: he was followed by the rest of the visitors, with the
+exception of the Armenian priest.
+
+"How do you like the Turks?" I asked.
+
+"Very well," replied the old man, at the same time blowing his nose
+in his dressing-gown, pocket handkerchiefs being apparently unknown in
+this part of Turkey. "Here," he added, "the population is half Armenian
+and half Turk, this makes a considerable difference. In other villages,
+where the Mohammedans outnumber the Christians, the latter sometimes
+suffer."
+
+"What do you mean by suffer? Are they tortured?"
+
+"No, never," replied the priest, "but if a Turk were to strike an
+Armenian, and the latter were to hit him back, all the Turks in the
+neighbourhood would set upon the Christian. Then, if the Christian
+should complain to the Mudir, the Turk would bring witnesses to say
+that the Armenian called him the grandson or great-grandson of a dog.
+The Christian's word would not be taken as evidence. But things are
+much better than they used to be, and here we get on well with the
+Mussulmans."
+
+My English servant was very much excited that evening. At dinner-time
+he put down my plate with a bang on the table, and every now and then
+looked at Osman with an air of supreme contempt.
+
+"What has happened?" I at last inquired. "Have you and Osman been
+fighting, or are you both in love with the same woman?"
+
+"No, sir, but that Hosman he ain't taken the pack-saddle off our
+horse's back since we left Scutari. Every night I tells him about it,
+and he takes no notice of me whatever. I expect that our oss has an
+awful back—a nasty unfeeling brute is Hosman, sir. How would he like a
+saddle on his own back night and day for fourteen days?"
+
+"Well," I said, "go to the stable, take off the saddle, and tell me in
+the morning if the horse's back is sore or not."
+
+I did not share the apprehensions of my English servant. The Turkish
+pack-saddle is admirably suited for a long journey. During previous
+expeditions in the East, I had seen some Tartars who kept their horses
+saddled for weeks and even months together, and all this without in any
+way injuring the animals. The two English riding-saddles which I had
+brought from Constantinople, had already proved a source of annoyance
+to me. Our steeds had lost a great deal of flesh, owing to the long
+and frequent marches, and the panels required fresh stuffing. The grey
+horse which I rode had been slightly rubbed. In consequence of this
+I had changed saddles with Osman, who was much lighter than myself.
+The Turkish saddle not having a panel, is better adapted for long
+marches. Unfortunately it is an uncomfortable one for the horseman: my
+own experience being that the English saddle galls the steed, but the
+Turkish one the rider.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+     One lives and learns even from Turks—The Mudir's two
+     sons—They like your nation—They remember the Crimean
+     War—Suleiman Effendi—The Vice-Consul—The town of Angora
+     to be illuminated—The telegram about the Constitution—What
+     does the Constitution mean?—Suleiman Effendi on education,
+     and on religious matters—So many roads to heaven—American
+     missionaries—The massacres in Bulgaria—The intrigues
+     of Russia—The Circassians hate the Russians—Circassian
+     women butchered and ravished by the Russians—An English
+     priest—The impalement story—The Vice-Consul's wife—A
+     piano in Angora—Turkish ladies—A visit to the Pacha—The
+     audience-room—The Pacha's son—Only one cannon in
+     Angora—Twenty-five thousand men gone to the war—The clerk—The
+     Bey's library—The new Constitution—The Bey's opinion about
+     it—Turkey requires roads and railways—The only carriage in
+     Angora.
+
+
+"Well, how is the animal's back?" I inquired of Radford, when he awoke
+me the next morning.
+
+"I can't make it out, sir. I took the saddle off, and our horse ain't
+touched at all. Osman came in when I was a looking at him. He laughed
+and said 'Eyi' (good), and I said 'Eyi' too. But, sir, it is a wonder
+to me that the horse ain't got an awful back."
+
+"How are you getting on with your Turkish?" I inquired.
+
+"Capital, sir; I often have a talk with Osman, though I can't say as
+how we understand each other much. The fellow, he knows more about
+horses than I thought he did; one lives and learns, even from Turks."
+
+We were escorted out of Istanos[8] by the Mudir and his two sons,
+lads of from twelve to fifteen, who had got up at daybreak to speed
+the Frank on his way. The Armenian priest also came to the door. In
+spite of the early hour, a great many inhabitants had assembled on the
+house-tops to have a look at the Englishman and his party.
+
+"They like your nation," said the Mudir, as the people saluted us.
+
+"Why so?"
+
+"They remember the Crimean war, and think that you have come to help us
+against the Russians."
+
+"I wish I had," was my answer; "but I am here only as a 'traveller.'"
+
+We retraced our steps along the route of the previous day, marching for
+some time by the bank of the river. Presently I came to a well-built
+stone bridge. It spans the stream, which is here about forty yards
+wide, besides being very rapid and deep. Soon afterwards the path
+traversed a spacious plain, formerly the battle field of Tamerlane.
+At one end of this plain, and on a hill, or rather ridge of hills,
+is Angora. Its ruined battlements and lofty minarets stand out
+conspicuously. The town itself lies rather in the background and on a
+slope. A Zaptieh met us as we were entering a narrow street, and said
+that a Turkish gentleman had sent him to escort me to his house.
+
+On we rode, through many dirty lanes, until I finally entered a wide
+yard. This court was overlooked by a large and handsome building.
+
+"Suleiman Effendi lives here," said the Zaptieh.
+
+The gentleman to whom he alluded now appeared descending some stone
+steps which gave access to the courtyard. He approached us, and aided
+me to dismount; then, taking my hand, he led me into a large room
+furnished with chairs, as well as with a divan, and carpeted with rich
+Persian rugs. Advancing to the place of honour, in the centre of the
+divan, he asked me to be seated, and sat down by my side. Several of
+his friends being accommodated on the floor.
+
+Suleiman Effendi was dressed in European fashion, with the exception of
+his fez. He had a very fair knowledge of Arabic; I soon found that he
+was well posted in European politics.
+
+"I heard that an Englishman was on his way to Angora," he said, "and
+determined that you should be my guest. We received the news about you
+from Ismid."
+
+"Are there any other Englishmen here?" I inquired.
+
+"Only one—the Vice-Consul, a merchant: but I will send and let him
+know that you have arrived. In the meantime have a glass of raki."
+Proceeding to a cabinet in the wall, Suleiman carefully unlocked it,
+and produced a decanter with some glasses.
+
+"Thanks, I do not drink spirits."
+
+"No more do I," replied Suleiman, laughing; "only medicinally, you
+know;" and he drank off a bumper.
+
+In a few minutes the English Vice-Consul arrived. He was dressed in his
+official uniform, and was accompanied by a young Bulgarian, who was a
+merchant in the same business as himself.
+
+Mr. —— was very surprised to see an Englishman in Angora, no one of
+our nation having visited that town for several years past; and he
+informed me that a telegram had just been received from Constantinople
+with reference to the proclamation of a Constitution. In consequence of
+this the town of Angora was to be illuminated on the following evening;
+cannon would be fired, and the Pacha would read the telegram to the
+populace in the courtyard of the palace.
+
+"What does it—the Constitution—mean?" I inquired.
+
+"Mean?" replied the Bulgarian, who spoke English perfectly; "it means
+a quantity of promises which the Government will never fulfil."
+
+"It probably means a Parliament in Constantinople," said the Consul;
+"but we have no particulars as yet." And, making an appointment for me
+to call upon him in the morning, he left the room, accompanied by the
+Bulgarian.
+
+I was very much surprised at this intelligence. A Parliament in
+Constantinople! How would the members be chosen? and who would choose
+them? If universal suffrage prevailed, only one in about every 300
+of the electors would be able to read or write; all of them would
+be ignorant of everything beyond the interests of their immediate
+neighbourhood.
+
+"Is a Parliament possible here?" I inquired of my host.
+
+"It is possible in theory, but impossible in practice,"[9] was the
+reply. "We require more liberty, but this must be a question of
+time. We must educate the people, and teach both the Christians and
+Mohammedans that a difference of opinion on religious matters is not a
+subject about which men should quarrel. Religion has been the cause of
+more wars than anything else in history."
+
+"I tell you what it is," he continued, "I believe that in another
+hundred years there will be either no religion at all, or else that
+every religion will be merged into one creed."
+
+"The Christian," I observed.
+
+"Who knows?" continued my host. "We live in strange times; even we
+Turks, the more particularly those who live in Constantinople, begin
+to argue about such matters. However, there is one thing I cannot
+understand about you Christians—you appear to me to have so many roads
+to heaven. For instance, in Anatolia there are American Protestant
+missionaries, Italian Catholic missionaries, and then there are the
+Armenians, who profess the Armenian faith."
+
+"Well," I remarked, "what of it?"
+
+"Wait a moment," said my host. "An Armenian, who is of the Armenian
+faith, is half-way up his staircase to heaven. An American missionary
+calls after him, 'Where are you going?' 'I am going to heaven.' 'No
+you are not; that is not the road to heaven. You are going in the
+wrong direction. Come down immediately, and I will show you the way.'
+The Armenian descends the steps, and begins ascending the road the
+missionary points out to him. Presently another voice is heard. It
+comes from the mouth of an Italian missionary. 'Where are you going?'
+'I am going to heaven.' 'No you are not; come down immediately. You are
+on the road to hell.'"
+
+"The result is," continued Suleiman, "that the poor Armenian does not
+know which way to turn. He is perpetually going up, or coming down the
+steps, and he never reaches his destination."
+
+"Stop," I said, "you Mohammedans are also split up into sects. There
+are the Sunnites and the Shiites, and you both hate each other."
+
+"Alas! it is true," replied my companion, "but if we have two sects,
+you, according to what I have read, number at least a hundred, and
+the members of many of the sects think that every one else besides
+themselves must be damned. A very charitable doctrine that, is it not?"
+he added.
+
+"Who was the Bulgarian with our Vice-Consul?" I inquired.
+
+"He is in business with the Vice-Consul, and, I am sorry to say, does
+not love us Turks."
+
+"Why?"
+
+"Because his brother was one of the victims in the late Bulgarian
+rebellion."
+
+"People in England blame us for the massacres," continued Suleiman.
+"What could we do? Our regular troops were employed elsewhere. This
+was owing to the intrigues of Russia; we were obliged to employ
+Circassians. The Circassians hate the Russians, and indeed they have
+reason to hate them. Those whose own mothers and sisters have been
+ravished and butchered, cannot be expected to love their oppressors.
+The Circassians looked upon the Bulgarians as Russians, hence the
+bloodshed. A few days ago I read an extract from an English paper,
+which had been translated into Turkish. It was to the effect that an
+English priest had seen people impaled by our Bashi Bazouks. Have you
+heard of this?"
+
+"Yes, but the story has been contradicted."
+
+"It is a pity when Christian priests or Mohammedan Imaums mix
+themselves up in politics," remarked another Turk; "their place is to
+calm men's passions, not to rouse them."
+
+They left me; my host having previously asked at what time I should
+like to dine, with the observation that his hour was mine. Three
+servants were also placed at my disposal, with orders to supply me with
+anything I might require.
+
+The following morning I called upon the Vice-Consul, and found him at
+home with his wife—a delicate-looking lady, who had braved all the
+hardships of the journey from Ismid in order to be at her husband's
+side.
+
+Their house was furnished with every English comfort. It was difficult
+to believe that we were so many days from a railroad.
+
+"That piano cost us a great deal of trouble," said the Vice-Consul. "It
+was brought here in two parts, and on mules."
+
+"It is wonderful how it could have survived the journey," said the
+lady. Going to the instrument, she sounded the notes, which were very
+fairly in tune. "The Turkish ladies are so astonished with the piano,"
+she continued. "They will sit for hours and listen to me playing."
+
+I now started with the Consul to pay a visit to the Pacha. We arrived
+in a large courtyard, which was badly paved with loose stones. At one
+end there were some steps which led to the official residence. The
+courtyard was thronged with people who had been summoned to hear the
+telegram read about the new Constitution; men in uniform, beggars,
+people with petitions in their hands, all swearing and jostling each
+other, as my companion and myself with difficulty made our way up the
+stairs. We were at once admitted into the audience-room. I found the
+Pacha, a tall, good-looking man of middle age, engaged in placing his
+seal upon a number of documents which an official was handing to him.
+He received us courteously, and proposed that we should accompany him
+to the court below, and listen to the proclamation of the Sultan's
+telegram.
+
+The Pacha then introduced me to his son, a young man about twenty; he
+spoke French fluently and without any perceptible accent, having been
+educated by a French tutor.
+
+"We have only one cannon in Angora," he remarked, "and it is to be
+fired 101 times. We are a little afraid that it may not be able to
+stand the ordeal."
+
+"Yes," said his father, "we have only one cannon, but we have sent
+25,000 men to the war. We do not require any cannons," he added. "Our
+own people are quiet enough. The Russians will not find it a very easy
+matter to reach Angora."
+
+We descended the steps; on reaching the courtyard, the clerk—a
+wonderful old gentleman in a green dressing-gown, and with a wheezy
+voice—called for silence.
+
+The Pacha then announced that the Sultan had been pleased to grant
+more liberties to his people, and that the present autocratic form of
+government was to be replaced by a Constitution. The Imaum, or priest,
+here said "Amin," equivalent to our Amen; and the Vice-Consul put on
+his cap with the gilt peak, which he had taken off during the ceremony.
+
+The Pacha's son now invited me to visit his rooms, which were a suite
+of apartments separate from those occupied by his father. I found
+his book-shelves well stored with scientific French works, and, to my
+surprise, discovered that the young Bey was not only remarkably well
+educated for a Turk, but was much better informed than nine Englishmen
+out of ten who have been to a public school, and have taken their
+degree at the university.
+
+"Well, what do you think will be the result of the new Constitution?"
+I inquired.
+
+"We are what you would call in England a very conservative nation.
+This sudden change has almost taken away our breath. We have not
+yet received the document which contains all the clauses of the new
+Constitution, and only know of them by telegram; if we are to attempt a
+form of Government such as you have in England, in my opinion we shall
+fail."
+
+"Why so?" I asked.
+
+"Because not only the electing class, but the men who will probably
+be chosen to sit in Parliament are only half educated. We shall have
+ignorant legislators legislating for an equally ignorant nation. We
+want time," he continued; "we require roads and railways. If there were
+means of communication, the people would travel and see that there is
+a good deal to be learnt away from home, and even from you Christians.
+Give us roads and railways, they will be worth fifty Constitutions, for
+the latter, in my opinion, will soon be found impracticable."
+
+"It will never be carried out," said the Vice-Consul, who was
+sitting next to him. "It has been drawn up merely as a sop for the
+plenipotentiaries at the Conference."
+
+"Well, whatever they do in other places," said the Bey, "we shall carry
+it out in its integrity here."
+
+As he said these words the boom of the cannon resounded from below,
+the windows of the room began to rattle, the sound of a mob cheering,
+rapidly followed the report.
+
+"A great deal of noise and a great deal of smoke: _voilà la
+Constitution_," said the Consul, and he prepared to leave the room.
+
+"Stop," said the Bey, "you must not walk, I will send my carriage with
+you. It is almost the only carriage in Angora," he added, "and I have
+a compatriot of yours as a coachman; he has been with me three years."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+     The Pacha's carriage—The coachman an Irishman—Christmas
+     day in Angora—The celebrities of the town—A society of
+     thieves—Fire in Sivrisa—The Turks and the Armenians—So-called
+     fanaticism—Ten Pachas in Angora in four years—Cases of
+     litigation—Arrears—The firman of November, 1875—The famine in
+     Angora—Deaths during the famine—The goats died—A Mohammedan
+     divine—The Russian Ambassador and the secret societies—The
+     English newspapers and the Bulgarian atrocities—A Turk values
+     his nose quite as much as a Christian—Suleiman Effendi's
+     wife—The Turkish law about property—A dinner with a Turkish
+     gentleman—A mixture of nationalities—My host and his
+     digestion—Spirits refresh the stomach—The Prophet and the old
+     woman in Mecca—There are no old women in heaven.
+
+
+The Pacha's carriage was a funny-looking old vehicle. It gave me the
+idea of a broken-down four-wheeler, which had been taken to pieces
+and converted into an Irish car. There were no springs. My bones were
+nearly dislocated as we drove down the main street, to the Consul's
+house.
+
+The coachman turned out to be not an Englishman, but an Irishman. He
+had lost all signs of the native drollery. Four years spent in Turkey
+seemed to have taken the life out of him. He had been sent home to
+Ireland during the previous summer, to buy some carriage-horses for his
+master. On returning with his purchases, a storm arose in the Bay of
+Biscay. The captain of the vessel had been obliged to order the crew
+to throw the horses overboard. This, and the absence of all female
+society, had weighed upon Paddy's mind. He only brightened up for one
+moment when the Consul, giving him a glass of whisky, desired him to
+drink it in honour of Ould Ireland and of Christmas Day. For it was
+Christmas Day in Angora, and the Consul's good wife was busily engaged
+in all the mysteries of the _cuisine_.
+
+"You are going to dine with us to-night?" said the hospitable
+gentleman. "Nay, you must," he added. "We are to have a turkey stuffed
+with chestnuts, and my wife is busy teaching the Turkish servants how
+to make a plum-pudding. You will also meet some of the celebrities of
+Angora."
+
+At dinner one of the guests—if I remember right, an Armenian—did not
+seem to share the opinions which the Pacha had expressed that morning
+with reference to the quiet and good order in the city.
+
+It appeared, according to this person, that there is a vagabond
+society, a society of thieves, in Angora, which preys upon Turks and
+Christians. The members of this society go at night to different
+houses, and, knocking at the door, order the proprietors, under
+threat of assassination, to draw the bolts. The inhabitants, who are
+frightened to death, frequently open the door. The thieves, entering,
+eat what they find in the house, and afterwards make the proprietor
+give them a sum of money.
+
+"Yes," remarked another guest, "the worst of it is that several of the
+chief people in the town are said to be mixed up in this society."
+
+A great fire had taken place in Sivrisa, a short time before. Damage
+had been done to the Christian inhabitants to the amount of thirty
+million piastres. The Turks did not willingly receive the Armenians
+into their houses, but when they did so, subsequently threw their
+mattresses out of the window, saying that they had been defiled by the
+contact of a _giaour's_ body. This was mentioned to show the fanaticism
+of the Turks.
+
+However, during my subsequent travels in Armenia, the impression
+gradually dawned upon my mind that the Turks were, first of all, very
+wise not to wish to receive the Armenians into their houses; and,
+secondly, if they had been good-natured enough to do so, to destroy the
+mattresses after the departure of their guests. The Armenians in their
+habits of body are filthy to the last degree. Their houses and clothes
+are infested with vermin. The Turks, on the contrary, are much cleaner,
+and are most particular about the use of the bath. An Englishman
+would not be pleased if his house became filled with what it is not
+here necessary to mention. If he did under such circumstances admit
+strangers, he would probably destroy their bedding the moment that they
+departed.
+
+One of the visitors now remarked that there had been ten Pachas in four
+years in Angora, and that this frequent removal of officials was one of
+the causes which had led to the decadence of the country.
+
+"Yes," said another, "a Pacha never feels sure of his place. Another
+evil here is the delay in settling cases of litigation. The arrears
+are enormous, and although in November, 1875, a firman from the
+sultan called attention to this matter, and ordered all law cases
+to be settled at once, nothing has been done to carry the edict into
+execution. If when the Authorities find that they have a good man as
+a Pacha, they would leave him for say ten years in office, we should
+advance much more rapidly than at present."
+
+I next heard that Angora had not recovered from the effects of the
+famine which had devastated the neighbourhood in 1873-74, the amount
+of taxes owing by the inhabitants to the Government amounting to
+more than a million and a half Turkish pounds. The arrears of taxes
+owing previous to 1872 had been cancelled, some being as much as ten,
+twelve, and twenty years due. Previous to cancelling the arrears, the
+Government had put up to auction the right of collecting the entire
+sum; but, as many of the inhabitants had emigrated, no one ventured to
+bid.
+
+There were 18,000 deaths in the neighbourhood of the town during the
+famine, and 25,000 people died subsequently in consequence of its
+effect. The chief trade of the district is in goats' hair, 60 per
+cent. of the goats, sheep, and cattle had perished. Children had been
+deserted and left in the streets; some instances of babies being eaten
+by their parents were brought to light.
+
+The following morning I received a visit from a relative of my host,
+Hadji Taifik Effendi. It is said that he will one day be the head
+of the Mussulman faith. I found this Mohammedan divine excessively
+bellicose in his ideas; he eagerly desired war.
+
+"Why so?" I inquired.
+
+"Because an open enemy is better than a poisoner in your house.
+Because war must come some day, and it is better to get rid of a
+cancer by sacrificing a limb.[10] Russian agents have been doing their
+best to sow discord amongst the inhabitants of our provinces; this
+they did during peace time and whilst a Russian ambassador was at
+Constantinople."
+
+"Yes," said my host, "and an ambassador who is himself a prime mover in
+the secret societies which are agitating Europe. The Russian Government
+pretends to be alarmed at the secret societies, but it is the hot-bed
+of all the secret societies in the world.[11] You may depend upon it,"
+he continued, "that the massacres which occurred in Bulgaria had been
+planned long before the outbreak. Our regular troops had been purposely
+sent to other parts of the empire. The Russian authorities were well
+aware of what was about to take place, and were delighted at the effect
+which it had upon public opinion in England. One thing, however, I
+cannot understand, and this is why your newspapers always published
+the accounts of the Bulgarian women and children who were slaughtered,
+and never went into any particulars about the Turkish women who were
+massacred by the Bulgarians, or about our soldiers whose noses were
+cut off, and who were mutilated by the insurgents in the Herzegovina.
+A Turk values his nose quite as much as a Christian," he added.
+
+I now learned that Hadji Taifik Effendi had five wives, but that
+Suleiman Effendi only possessed one. She was the widow of a rich
+inhabitant of the town, and one day seeing Suleiman pass her windows,
+was struck by his appearance. She sent an old woman, as intermediary,
+to him. The marriage was arranged; the lady bringing all her late
+husband's fortune to her new spouse.
+
+The Turkish law about the distribution of property after a man's death
+is rather curious. If a man dies leaving a daughter, but if at the
+same time he has a brother, the daughter and his brother divide the
+property. Should he leave two daughters and a brother, each girl takes
+a quarter, his brother the half; if he has one son and a brother, the
+brother is left out altogether, and the son takes everything.
+
+That evening I received an invitation to dine with a Turkish gentleman.
+My host was one of the guests; we went together to the place of
+entertainment. There was a strange mixture of nationalities, comprising
+Turks, Armenians, an Italian doctor, a certain M. Gasparini, who had
+been for some years in Angora, and was a great favourite with the
+inhabitants; Greeks, a Bulgarian, and our Consul, who is a Scotchman.
+We passed through a courtyard which surrounded the house. It was
+illuminated with paper lanterns of various patterns. Presently I found
+myself in a room surrounded by divans. The guests were all assembled.
+In the centre of the apartment was a table. On it were placed bottles
+of red and white wine of Armenian manufacture, raki, mastic, brandy,
+and liqueurs, whilst biscuits, nuts and filberts, with sardines, were
+on little dishes interspersed amidst the decanters. My host, who was
+a stout and very dark man, pouring out a bumper, insisted upon all the
+company joining him in his libations, then, turning to M. Gasparini, he
+complained about the state of his digestion.
+
+"Well, if you will drink so much," said the doctor, "you ought not to
+expect to feel well."
+
+"Spirits," said the fat Turk; "I like spirits—they refresh my stomach,
+and I become cheerful. Send me some medicine," he added.
+
+"There is no good treating these Turks," said the doctor to me, in
+Italian. "They mix up everything together, wine, spirits, physic,
+&c., and then expect to get well. If they would only carry out their
+prophet's injunctions, and leave off drinking wine, they would enjoy
+much better health."
+
+"Did you ever hear the story of the prophet and the old women in
+Mecca?" said one of the guests who was listening to the conversation.
+
+"No, what is it?"
+
+"Well," observed the visitor, "there is a tradition that one day an
+old woman came to the Prophet and said, 'Oh! only true Prophet of God,
+when I die, to which particular heaven shall I be sent?' The Prophet,
+who was continually being bothered by similar questions, and" (aside
+to the doctor) "whose digestion on that particular occasion was very
+likely out of order, replied gruffly, 'Go away, go away! There are no
+old women in heaven.' Upon this the aged dame left the house crying. In
+a short time the Prophet's domicile was surrounded by all the ancient
+females in Mecca. Their cries became so loud that they attracted
+Mahomet's attention; he went out to them. 'Oh, holy Prophet! holy
+prophet!' they cried. 'Well, what do you want?' 'You have said that
+there are no old women in heaven. Whatever shall we do?' The Prophet
+was not in the least nonplussed for an answer. 'Quite true,' said
+Mahomet, 'quite true, I said so. There are no old women in heaven; they
+all become young so soon as they arrive there!'"
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+     The band—Turkish melodies—Turkish music like a Turkish
+     dinner; it is a series of surprises—Turkish etiquette
+     at dinner—The pack-horse is lame—The people ask for
+     many liras—The Postmaster is in bed—The chief of
+     the police—Horse-copers in Aleppo—The fair sex in
+     that city—A test for lovers—We burn our fingers soon
+     enough after marriage—Domestic life in the harems in
+     Angora—The immorality in Yuzgat—Mr. Gasparini—Turkish
+     hospitality—Armenians dress like Turks—Christian women—Great
+     harmony between Turks and Christians—Armenian testimony
+     doubtful—The prison at Sivas—Hearsay evidence—A Turkish
+     veterinary surgeon—Horse-dealers—Two pounds offered
+     for the horse—History of the Ottoman Empire—The Bey's
+     present—Generosity of the Turks—The devil is not so black as
+     he is painted.
+
+
+By this time the guests had consumed many cigarettes, smoked numerous
+Nargilehs, and drank freely of the liqueurs. The host, rising, proposed
+that we should adjourn to the dining-room. There we found three
+musicians with instruments much resembling banjos.
+
+"We are to have some music," said the Bey, the Pacha's son, who was one
+of the guests. "I am afraid that it will not be much to your taste. Our
+melodies are very different to those which you are accustomed to hear
+in Europe."
+
+He was quite right; Turkish melodies are very different. There is
+a wildness and pathos about many of them which strikes the stranger
+accustomed to the more regular measure which distinguishes European
+music. Now they resounded so plaintively that the guests involuntarily
+ceased talking. Another instant the instruments, bursting forth with a
+startling crash, half deafened us with the clamour.
+
+The performers swung their heads from side to side, and kept time with
+the quickening air; the strains went faster and faster. The guests were
+inspired with the musicians' enthusiasm. All the heads began to swing,
+we Europeans involuntarily marking the time with our feet on the floor.
+The musicians panted with their exertions. Suddenly the melody left off
+abruptly, and one of the performers commenced a doleful dirge. This did
+not last long, and when he was in the most pathetic part, another crash
+from the orchestra interrupted him in the middle of a verse.
+
+"Turkish music is exactly like a Turkish dinner," observed one of the
+guests; "it is a series of surprises; the leader of the orchestra goes
+from _andante_ to a racing pace without any _crescendo_ whatsoever;
+the cook in the same manner—he first gives us a dish as sweet as honey,
+and then astonishes our stomachs with a sauce as acid as vinegar. Now
+we are eating fish, another instant blanc-mange. A vegetable is next
+placed before us, and our stomachs have scarcely recovered from their
+astonishment, when a sweet soup is served up with some savoury pastry."
+
+The servants, who were much more numerous than the guests, vied with
+each other in serving the different dishes. Twenty attendant domestics
+were arranged in Indian file. So soon as the host made a sign to
+the leading domestic, each kind of food was replaced by another, and
+number-two servant was prepared with fresh viands, while number one,
+who had hurried to the kitchen, returned with another dish.
+
+The table was a raised one, chairs were placed round it. This was done
+in honour of the European visitors. We all ate with our fingers, each
+man helping himself according to his rank or social position. It was
+not etiquette for a Cadi to seize a piece of meat before the Bey put
+his fingers in the dish, a captain had to be careful not to offend the
+susceptibilities of a colonel.
+
+To eat blanc-mange _à la Turque_ requires some practice; however, the
+Consul and the Italian doctor had been for some time in the East, and
+used their fingers as readily as a knife and fork.
+
+At last our dinner was over. Fruit, mincemeat, dishes of vegetables,
+sweets and raisins, salads and creams, concluding with a huge bowl of
+boiled rice, had been disposed of, the whole having been washed down by
+tumblers of red country wine very like Burgundy.
+
+"Praise be to God!" said our host, rising; his example was followed by
+the rest of the guests.
+
+A servant poured water over the hands of the visitors, beginning with
+each man according to his rank. We adjourned into another room. Here
+coffee, _tchibouks_, and _nargilehs_ were handed round to the company.
+
+A servant now approached, and said that Osman was waiting outside, and
+wished to speak to me.
+
+"What is the matter?" I inquired. "Have you come to tell me how very
+industrious you are, or do you want some more money?" I had previously
+observed that when Osman wished to speak to me, these two topics were
+almost invariably the subject of his conversation.
+
+"No, Effendi, but the horse—"
+
+"Which horse?"
+
+"The bay that makes a noise."
+
+"Well, what of him?"
+
+"He is lame. My brother has seen him. I have seen him. He will not be
+able to carry his pack to-morrow."
+
+"Hire two horses instead of one, and lead the roarer."
+
+"Yes, Effendi, that is what I have been trying to do; but the people
+ask for many liras; their hearts are stony at the sight of our
+difficulties, they open wide their purses for the Effendi's gold."
+
+"Have you been to the post?"
+
+"Yes, but the postmaster has ten horses, and only one man to look after
+them. The postmaster says if you hire two baggage animals that you must
+pay for ten."
+
+"Wait here, Osman," I said; returning to my host, I informed him of my
+difficulties.
+
+"Oh! the dog!" exclaimed the Bey. "He is trying to cheat you!"
+
+Tearing a piece of paper from an old letter in his pocket, he wrote a
+note to the chief of the police, desiring him to bring the postmaster
+immediately before us.
+
+"The postmaster is in bed," said Osman, who had entered the room.
+
+"In bed or out of bed, he shall be brought here," said the young Bey,
+stamping the piece of paper with his seal, he gave it to a servant.
+Presently a noise was heard. The postmaster arrived, followed by the
+chief of the police.
+
+"You must give this English gentleman two horses at once."
+
+"Yes, Bey Effendi."
+
+"But why did you not do so before?"
+
+"Because I did not know that it was the Bey's pleasure—the will of
+the son of our Pacha is my will. Upon my head be it; the horses shall
+come."
+
+"Good horses," I remarked, "stout and strong."
+
+"Have I not said so?" replied the man, and it was agreed that I was to
+hire two horses as far as Yuzgat, paying the regular tariff of three
+piastres for each horse per hour.
+
+"People in Turkey who deal in horses are great rogues," said the Bey;
+"are they the same in your country? A horse-dealer near Kars would try
+and get the best of his dearest friend in a bargain."
+
+"They are much the same in England," I replied; and the young Bey began
+to tell us some stories of horse-copers in Aleppo, where he had passed
+some years, and in which town the fair sex was more than usually frail.
+
+"The young men in that city have a curious way of showing their
+affection to the lady of their choice," continued the speaker. "A girl
+has, say, three lovers—a small allowance for a lady in that part of
+the world—she does not know which to select, each one of the suitors is
+eager to display his gallantry."
+
+"What does she do?" asked one of the party. "Accept them all?"
+
+"No, she takes three bits of live charcoal from out of the fire; giving
+each of her lovers a piece, she tells them to place it in the palms
+of their hands. The fire burns through the skin, the tendons are laid
+bare; sometimes the amorous gentlemen will resist till the flesh has
+been burnt to the bone. Here one or two of them generally succumb to
+the torture; the man who resists the longest, wins the lady."
+
+"But if they are all equally indifferent to pain, and the charcoal
+burns out, what happens then?" I inquired.
+
+"The lady takes three more pieces of charcoal, and begins again with
+the other hand," replied the Bey. "The more they resist, the better the
+girl likes them, because it is a proof to her mind that they value her
+more than their own torture."
+
+"Did you ever try it?"
+
+"No," said the Bey, laughing. "I can get a wife without any trouble, so
+I do not care about burning my fingers. We burn our fingers quite soon
+enough after marriage, as it is."
+
+"Yes," said the doctor, and he began to give me a long account of the
+domestic life in some of the harems in Angora.
+
+According to the doctor's experiences there was a great deal of
+immorality amidst the fair sex in the city, although nothing to what
+existed in Yuzgat, another town which I should pass by on the way
+to Kars. In Angora, although the women are very unfaithful to their
+husbands, yet everything is kept more or less concealed. In Yuzgat it
+was very different, and there you could actually see the dance of the
+Turkish gipsy women, although in Angora it was strictly prohibited.
+
+M. Gasparini was doing a large practice. He had been established for
+ten years in Angora and its neighbourhood. From his position as a
+medical man he had the opportunity of knowing more about the domestic
+life of the inhabitants than the other European residents.
+
+"Well, although the women may be immoral, the men are very hospitable,"
+said the Consul. "Wherever a stranger may go he is always received
+with the greatest hospitality. A few years ago a friend of mine, Mr.
+Thompson, was travelling from the Black Sea to Angora. He arrived at a
+village. The Khan was full, every room was occupied. However, he was an
+old traveller, and could easily accommodate himself to circumstances.
+Taking his cloak, he lay down in the yard and prepared to pass the
+night in the open air. Presently he was awakened by a tap on the
+shoulder. On looking up, he found an old Turk bending over him.
+
+"Why are you sleeping here?" inquired the Mohammedan.
+
+"Because there is no room in the Khan."
+
+"This is not right. A stranger, and outside the gate. Come with me."
+
+Taking Mr. Thompson by the hand, the Turk led him to his house, gave
+him a clean bed and his breakfast, waited himself upon his guest, and
+would not receive any remuneration.
+
+"Now," added the Consul, "the Turk was a Mohammedan, and Mr. Thompson
+a Christian; if the Turk had been in England, and had found himself
+placed in a similar predicament to Mr. Thompson, do you think that
+there are many Englishmen who would have behaved so generously to an
+utter stranger?"
+
+The following day I called upon some Armenian gentlemen, and found
+their houses furnished like my host's, with thick carpets, divans,
+and pipes, the walls being bare and whitewashed. Pictures and
+looking-glasses were seldom to be seen, the latter being a very costly
+luxury, owing to the difficulty of carriage.
+
+The Armenians dressed in a similar manner to the Turks. The Christian
+women were closely veiled whenever they left the house. In many
+instances, an Armenian was not permitted to see his wife[12] before
+marriage, and had to take her, as the Yankees say, "on spec."
+
+Great harmony existed between the Turks and Christians. Whenever
+I dined with an Armenian there were always Mohammedans present.
+When I visited a Turk's house, I generally found Armenians amongst
+the visitors. On inquiring whether this state of things prevailed
+elsewhere, I was informed by the Armenians that in other parts
+of Anatolia, and more particularly in Sivas, the Christians were
+ill-treated by the Turks, and that the prisons were filled with
+Armenians.
+
+During my stay at Ismid I had heard precisely the same story of the
+sufferings of the Christians at Angora. I had been told that the
+Armenians were cruelly oppressed, and that justice was never shown to
+them. However, in Angora the two religions did not seem to clash. The
+Mohammedans and Christians were on the best of terms. I began to be
+a little sceptical as to the truth of the statement about Sivas, and
+determined not to form any opinion on the matter from mere hearsay
+evidence, but to see with my own eyes if the prisons were so full of
+Christians as the Armenians in Angora would have had me believe.
+
+Later on in the day, Radford suggested that it would be as well for me
+to sell the lame horse and buy another; he was doubtful whether, even
+without his pack, the animal would be able to march to Yuzgat. The
+poor beast was very lame, the frog of his foot was much swollen. Whilst
+we were talking, a Turkish veterinary surgeon arrived: taking out his
+knife, he made a slight incision in the swollen place.
+
+Meantime several horse-dealers, learning that I wanted to buy a horse,
+brought me some animals for inspection, at the same time offering me
+the liberal price of 2_l._ sterling for my own animal.
+
+"Well," said one man, extracting some silver from what appeared to be
+an old stocking, "I will give twelve medjidis."
+
+"Your heart is very hard, brother, soften it a little," said Osman.
+"Our horse shall not go for less than forty silver pieces. You love
+your money, but we love our horse still more."
+
+Nobody would give this sum, and as I thought that possibly the
+operation performed by the Turkish veterinary surgeon might benefit the
+animal, I determined to wait another day in Angora. This would also
+give me an opportunity of inspecting more closely the old Augustin
+monument, one of the curiosities in the town.
+
+To my great delight the operation proved successful; in the evening
+the horse could walk without much pain. He would be able to march on
+the following morning, and so I gave orders for an early start. Just
+before leaving, a servant arrived from the Pacha's palace. The young
+Bey, who had observed that I much admired a work entitled the "History
+of the Ottoman Empire," and which was in his library, had sent it to me
+as a present, and hoped that I would do him the honour of accepting the
+book as a memento of my visit to Angora. There were about ten volumes,
+the weight would have been at least twenty pounds, and a considerable
+addition to the baggage. Much to my regret, I was obliged to decline
+the kind offer. The hospitality of the Turkish nation is proverbial.
+The generosity of the Turks is equally great. In fact, they carry this
+virtue to excess. Sometimes after having admired a horse, I have been
+surprised to find that the steed has been sent to my stable, with a
+note from the owner, entreating my acceptance of the animal.
+
+I often experienced great difficulty in finding excuses for not
+accepting the presents so generously offered to me by my entertainers.
+"I cannot take any more luggage," I would say, if the present were
+at all cumbersome. However, if it were a horse, I could only decline
+the gift and say that I had not sufficient servants to look after the
+animals.
+
+"But I have plenty of servants, take one of mine; he will accompany
+you throughout your journey, and then will return to me," would be the
+answer.
+
+People in this country who abuse the Turkish nation, and accuse them of
+every vice under the sun, would do well to leave off writing pamphlets
+and travel a little in Anatolia. There is an old saying that "the devil
+is not so black as he is painted," and in many things writers who call
+themselves Christians might well take a lesson from the Turks in Asia
+Minor.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+     We leave Angora—The Effendi wants a turkey—A very old
+     cock—The cooking-pot—An Armenian woman on horseback—Baggage
+     upset in the river—Cartridges in the water—Osman castigating
+     the delinquent—Delayed on the road—Asra Yuzgat—How the
+     inhabitants build their houses—The Caimacan—His house—His
+     servants undress him—He goes to bed—All the cartridges
+     spoiled.
+
+
+My host was up at daybreak to see me off.
+
+"Come and see me in England," I said.
+
+"If Allah pleases, I will," was my friend's reply, and I only hope that
+I may have the opportunity of returning Suleiman Effendi's hospitality.
+
+The road was hard and good for a few miles, we rode for some time by
+the Ayash river.
+
+After marching for about five hours, we came to a small farm-house.
+It was on the opposite bank of the river to ourselves; but there was a
+ford, and as there was no wood on our side of the stream, I determined
+to cross and halt an hour for lunch. The house belonged to an Armenian.
+It was filthily dirty. Vermin could be seen crawling in all directions
+on the rugs. In consequence of this, I resolved to make our fire
+outside, and lunch in the open air. There were some turkeys in the
+farm-yard, and the proprietor coming up, I desired Osman to purchase
+one of the birds.
+
+"The Effendi wants a turkey," said Osman to the farmer.
+
+This announcement at once created a great commotion among the female
+portion of the Armenian household—the turkeys being looked upon by the
+women in the establishment as their own particular property.
+
+"What for?" said an elderly dame, whose face was bound up in what
+appeared to be a dish-cloth.
+
+"To eat."
+
+"Have you any money?" asked the woman suspiciously.
+
+"Money?" said Osman indignantly; "much money. We can afford to eat
+turkey every day! Now, then, how much for this one?" pointing to an old
+bird, apparently the paterfamilias of the brood.
+
+"Osman is an ass, sir," here interfered Radford. "That is a very old
+cock. Osman has his eye on him because he is the biggest, he thinks
+that we can chew leather, that he do." And pursuing the brood, my
+English servant succeeded in catching a young pullet, which he brought
+triumphantly to the woman.
+
+"How much?" I inquired.
+
+"Twelve piastres" (about eighteenpence), replied the woman.
+
+"Twelve piastres," said Osman; "it is a great deal of money—we could
+not afford to eat turkey at that rate; say ten, and have done with it."
+
+"The bird is a hen, and will have eggs," observed the farmer.
+
+"She may die and have no eggs, and then you would have lost ten
+piastres," said Osman. "Come, be quick," he added, "pick the turkey!"
+And giving the woman the money, the old dame retired to a little
+distance to prepare the bird for the pot.
+
+When Radford had finished his cooking, and had helped me to some of
+the turkey, he put the remainder in my washing-basin, and handed it to
+Osman, for himself and the man with the pack-horses.
+
+"Why do you not give them the cooking-pot, and let them eat out
+of it?" I inquired. "Perhaps they will not like eating out of my
+washing-basin."
+
+"I thought of that, sir; but the pot is that hot that they would burn
+their fingers a-shoving them into it. Nasty, dirty fellows they are
+too; preferring dirty fingers to nice clean forks! But Osman, sir,
+he ain't that nice. He is the greediest feeder I ever see, he would
+eat out of a coal-scuttle sooner than not fill himself. See there,
+sir, he has got that turkey's leg. I knew he would have it! It was on
+the baggage-man's side of the basin, and Osman had eaten already one
+drumstick: the other ought to have gone to the chap with the horses.
+But Osman ain't got no conscience about eating, whatever he may have
+when he is flopping himself down on my coat and pretending to say his
+prayers."
+
+After luncheon the two Turks were so long in loading the pack-horse
+that I determined to ride forward with Radford, and let the other men
+follow with the luggage. We had continued the journey for about an hour
+when, after ascending a hill, I turned round to see if there were any
+signs of my followers. Nothing was in sight except an Armenian woman,
+who was on horseback, she was riding cross-legged, and carried a baby
+in a handkerchief which was slung from her neck.
+
+"Had she seen Osman?" I inquired.
+
+"No," was the answer.
+
+Desiring Radford to remain where he was, I galloped back in the
+direction of the farm-house. On arriving by the river-side a singular
+picture met my gaze. A pack-horse was dripping from head to foot, and
+was without his saddle. All the baggage was wet through. My cartridges,
+tea, sugar, and coffee were spoiled; Radford's bag, containing his pig
+tobacco, lay dripping wet by the side of the river. Osman was swearing
+violently at the man in charge of the pack-horses, and from time to
+time was administering to him a blow with a stick across the shoulders.
+The chastised individual was sobbing violently. On seeing me he threw
+himself down on the ground and began to embrace my knees.
+
+"What has happened?" I inquired.
+
+They both commenced speaking together.
+
+"Stop! One at a time," I remarked.
+
+"Yes, you dog!" said Osman to his fellow-countryman. "How dare you
+speak? He did not lead the horse, Effendi, he drove the animal
+before him, and the horse lay down in the river. Everything is
+spoiled! Oh! you refuse of a diseased sheep,"—this to the culprit.
+"And the Effendi's cartridges, he will not be able to replace
+them; and my brother, what will he say about his tobacco? he will
+be angry—he may beat me! I knew your mother, your grandmother, and
+great-grandmother—they were all most improper characters—and you, you
+hound, you are the worst of the family!" As he said these words, Osman
+began to flog the delinquent most unmercifully.
+
+I was obliged to interfere, taking my servant by the collar, I ordered
+him to desist, and at once to load the baggage animal.
+
+This accident delayed us considerably on the road. Some time after
+sunset, on looking at my watch, I found that we had only placed an
+eight hours' march between ourselves and Angora. We were on a large
+plain, which was surrounded by hills; our path wound round the slopes
+of the adjacent height, presently the village of Asra Yuzgat appeared
+in sight. It is built on the side of a hill. We were soon riding on the
+tops of the houses, and had to be very careful lest our horses should
+suddenly come upon an open chimney. Some of the roofs had fallen in.
+The moon shining on the white rafters gave a ghastly appearance to the
+scene.
+
+The people in this part of Anatolia have a very economical way of
+building their habitations. The man who is old enough to take unto
+himself a helpmate, and who is about to leave his father's roof, marks
+a piece of ground, generally of an oblong shape and on the side of
+a hill. He next digs out the earth to the depth of about seven feet.
+Then, hewing down some trees, he cuts six posts, each about ten feet
+high, and drives them three feet into the ground, three posts being on
+one side of the oblong and three on the other. Cross-beams are fastened
+to the tops of these uprights, and branches of trees plastered down
+with clay cover all. A few planks, with a hole made in them to serve
+as a doorway, enclose the outer side of the building, and a broad
+heavy plank closes the entrance, hinges being replaced by strips of
+cowhide. A wooden railing divides the room into two parts; one of them
+is tenanted by the sheep, oxen, camels, and cows of the proprietor,
+the other by himself and family. No partition-wall separates the
+cattle from their master; and the smell which arises at night from
+the confined air and from the ammonia in the building is excessively
+disagreeable to a European. In cold weather a hole in the roof, which
+serves as a ventilator, is stopped by a large stone. Fuel, often made
+from cow's dung, first dried and then mixed with chopped straw, is
+thrown on the fire. The inmates, sometimes consisting of twelve or more
+people, lie huddled together on the floor. This last in the poorer
+houses is covered by rugs made of camel's hair, and in the wealthier
+establishments by thick Persian carpets.
+
+The barking of the dogs, which swarmed around us, speedily awoke the
+inhabitants, and a middle-aged Turk, clad in a thick brown mantle,
+approaching me, said that he was the Caimacan or governor, and that he
+hoped I would stay at his house that night.
+
+It appeared that my friend the Bey at Angora had written to him about
+my journey, and had said that I should reach Asra Yuzgat at sunset.
+The Caimacan knew nothing of our accident on the road: as we had not
+arrived by one hour after nightfall, he had gone to bed.
+
+His house was not a large one. It consisted of two rooms, a kitchen
+and a reception-room. The latter apartment was used for all purposes.
+The owner remarked that he was going on a shooting expedition the
+following morning; he proposed that I should join his party. There
+were, according to him, a great many partridges and hares in the
+neighbourhood. However, my cartridges had been probably all of them
+spoiled in the river, so I was obliged to decline the invitation.
+
+I was rather tired, and wished to go to bed. On expressing a wish to
+this effect, a mattress was produced, and put down in one corner, and
+a second the other side of the room for the Caimacan. Three or four
+servants were present. No one seemed to have any intention to retire.
+I took off my clothes, lay down on the mattress, and drew over myself a
+marvellous thing in the way of _yorgans_, a silk counterpane of as many
+colours as Joseph's coat, and lined with feathers.
+
+"Are you warm?" said the Caimacan.
+
+"Yes."
+
+"Every one is warm with that _yorgan_," he continued. "It is light, and
+there are no fleas in it. You will sleep well."
+
+He now prepared to go to bed. The four servants assisted him. First
+they drew off his boots, and then his nether garments; the Caimacan
+glancing from time to time at me out of the corner of his eye, probably
+wishing to see what impression the fact of his having four servants to
+put him to bed had produced on my mind. He had been astonished when I
+undressed myself, and had remarked,—
+
+"Why, you have two servants, and you take off your own clothes! What is
+the good of having servants if you do not make them useful?"
+
+By this time he was in bed. His attendants lay down by his side;
+Radford and Osman in another corner. The one tallow dip which lit the
+room was carefully extinguished; soon nought could be heard save the
+snoring of the slumberers.
+
+I arose at daybreak, and unpacked the wet cartridges, then, taking my
+gun, I tried some of them; snap—snap—they would not explode. It was
+no use stopping for the shooting party; so desiring Osman to commence
+loading the horses, I took leave of my host.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+     The Kizil Ermak—No bridge in the neighbourhood—How to
+     cross the river—The current—Can my brother swim?—How
+     to embark the horses—Osman's expostulation—Bandaging
+     the horse's eyes—Yakshagan—Fresh post-horses—An uncivil
+     official—Madeh—Silver-mines—Water in the pits—Proper
+     machinery wanted—Engineers required—Kowakoli—Vines—How
+     to preserve grapes—Sugar very dear—A farmer—The Angora
+     famine—The late Sultan—Russian assessors—We do not wish
+     to be tortured to change our religion—Allah is always on
+     the side of justice—Sekili—The pace of a _Rahvan_—Marble
+     hovels—Hospitality—Foreign settlers—A Kurdish encampment—The
+     tax-collectors—The wealth of the Kurdish Sheiks—The Delidsche
+     Ermak—Fording the river—A district abounding in salt—Turkoman
+     girls—The many languages spoken in Anatolia—A lunch under
+     difficulties.
+
+
+We rode across a low ridge of mountains, rocks which looked like iron
+ore lying about in all directions, and presently arrived at the Kizil
+Ermak, a broad and rapid stream which runs into the Black Sea, about
+fifty miles S.E. of Sinope. The distance across the river was at least
+one hundred yards, the left bank being very precipitous. The depth of
+the water, owing to the recent rains, was not less than seven feet.
+There is no bridge in the neighbourhood, the nearest being twenty-four
+miles higher up the river; I was curious to learn how we should reach
+the other shore. The guide soon solved the problem. Riding about half
+a mile along the bank, he put two fingers in his mouth and whistled.
+In a few minutes the sound was answered from the opposite side of the
+river. Six men appeared in sight. Descending the bank, they dragged
+a triangular-shaped barge from some rushes, and, getting into it,
+began to pull with all their might in our direction. The current was
+very swift, the starting-point was nearly half a mile beyond us; but
+notwithstanding this, the oarsmen overshot their mark. We had to lead
+our horses some little distance before we reached the boat.
+
+It was a queer sort of a craft, certainly not more than twenty-five
+feet long, and about sixteen in its widest part. Its sides were two
+feet above the water: the men could not approach the bank nearer than
+twenty yards. The bottom was muddy. Our horses would have to walk
+through the mud to the boat, and then jump over the bulwarks.
+
+There were altogether eight horses, my own four, three belonging to the
+post, and the animal the guide rode, a brute which kicked, and already
+had slightly lamed my grey.
+
+"I shall be drowned," said Osman plaintively, "I know I shall! Can my
+brother swim?" pointing to Radford.
+
+"What does he say, sir?" inquired my English servant.
+
+"He wants to know if you can save him if he falls into the water."
+
+"Save him? no, sir. I cannot swim a stroke. I wonder what our engineers
+at Aldershot would say if they had to get us over in such a craft as
+this? It is wuss than a pontoon!"
+
+The boatmen wanted to take four horses across at a time; a veto was put
+upon this proposal on account of the guide's horse; it was determined
+that he should go alone. Taking the saddle off my own animal, I led him
+into the water; on reaching the boat I climbed into it, and tried to
+make the horse follow. This was by no means an easy task, he had sunk
+at least a foot into the mud, and evidently did not fancy the leap into
+the bark. Three of the boatmen now got into the river. One of them,
+seizing my horse's tail, twisted it violently, the others poked him
+from behind with their oars. Osman all this time was expostulating with
+the animal from the bank.
+
+"Dear horse, jump in! You shall have as much barley as you can eat this
+evening."
+
+This argument not having any effect upon the horse, Osman's language
+waxed stronger, and he heaped numerous curses upon the animal's
+ancestry.
+
+"Drat you!" said Radford at last; "you are always a-talking when there
+is something to do. Go and help, can't you?" Suiting the action to the
+word, he gave a push to the noisy Turk, which nearly upset him into the
+water.
+
+At length, and by the exertions of all our party, my horse was
+persuaded to make an effort. Rearing himself up, he placed his two
+fore-feet in the boat. A chorus of oaths and ejaculations—the hind-legs
+followed. Once safely in, I bandaged his eyes. The other horses,
+seeing that one of their number was embarked, followed without much
+difficulty.
+
+We floated down the stream for some distance, and at a great speed,
+before the boatmen could get any command over their craft, which
+whirled round as if in a whirlpool. Fortunately the horses were all
+blindfolded, and could not see the water. At last we reached the
+opposite bank, having descended the stream for more than a mile from
+our starting-point. So much time was lost in getting the other horses
+over, that night was upon us before we reached our destination,
+Yakshagan, a large village with two hundred houses. It was only
+fourteen miles from Asra Yuzgat, though, owing to the river, we had
+employed from sunrise to sunset in the journey.
+
+At Yakshagan it was necessary to hire fresh post-horses. The official
+at the station was very uncivil, and declared that he would not supply
+me with any unless I paid for three horses from Angora. I had only
+engaged two, however, the man with them had chosen to bring a third
+animal, instead of riding on one of the baggage horses. At last the
+difficulty was settled by the guide, who was known to the postmaster,
+saying that he would be responsible for the amount; whilst I agreed
+to refer the matter to the authorities at Yuzgat, and abide by their
+decision.
+
+I started rather late, in consequence of the altercation. After a
+five hours' ride along a good road and through a beautiful country, we
+arrived at Madeh. Here there are several silver-mines which, till very
+lately, have been worked by the Turks. I was informed that water has
+recently found its way into the pits. In consequence of this the miners
+had abandoned them.
+
+"It is a great pity," said an old Turk, an inhabitant of the village.
+"With proper machinery it would be easy to pump out the water, and
+these mines abound in silver."
+
+"We have got nothing but paper money in Anatolia," he added
+sorrowfully, "all this rich metal lies buried beneath our feet."
+
+It surprises a traveller to find that the Turks make so little use of
+their mines. In the course of my ride from Angora I had passed through
+a country apparently abounding in iron, and with many traces of coal.
+At Madeh there is silver, whilst copper is also found in the immediate
+neighbourhood. With intelligent engineers to explore the mineral wealth
+of Anatolia, Turkey would be able not only to pay the interest of her
+debt, but would speedily become one of the richest countries in the
+world.
+
+From Madeh we continued the march to Kowakoli. The country on each side
+of the road is covered with vines. The grapes in this part of Turkey
+are very large. The inhabitants preserve the fruit throughout the
+winter by hanging it up in cellars. The atmosphere is dry; unless the
+temperature falls much below zero, and the grapes freeze, they can be
+kept till the early spring. There is no wine made in the neighbourhood.
+The Armenians, who in other parts of Anatolia make large sums of money
+by distilling spirits, here neglect this branch of industry. The grapes
+are either eaten, or the unfermented juice is kept to sweeten pastry,
+for sugar is very dear, and costs more than a shilling the pound.
+This price is beyond the means of not only the poorer, but even of
+the wealthier inhabitants of the district. In consequence of this they
+drink their coffee without sweetening it, and look upon a present of a
+few pounds of sugar as a donation worthy of a sultan's generosity.
+
+I was hospitably entertained by an old farmer. He bewailed the
+disasters caused by the Angora famine, which had been felt throughout
+all this district. The road from Angora had been blocked by snow for
+three months and a half. His cattle all died from starvation, his goats
+had also perished. The late Sultan, Abdul Aziz, had sent large sums of
+money and food to the suffering people; but the roads were impassable,
+and the provisions could not reach their destination. Many poor people
+had died of hunger with cartloads of corn and barley only a few miles
+from their doors.
+
+My host had one son, a lad about sixteen years of age. The boy
+regretted that he was not old enough to join the sultan's forces.
+
+"Your time will come soon enough," observed his parent.
+
+"He does not know what war is like," added the farmer sorrowfully. "A
+great many men have gone to Servia from this neighbourhood, and several
+have been killed. God grant, if my boy should have to go, that he may
+return to his old father."
+
+"Is there much enthusiasm here for the war?" I inquired.
+
+"Immense," replied the farmer; "the people feel that it is a question
+not only of religion but also of property. We landlords should not like
+to have Russian assessors grinding us down to the last piastre. We do
+not wish to be tortured to change our religion, and we do not want to
+be made soldiers against our will."
+
+"But you are all soldiers now," I remarked.
+
+"Yes, because it is the time of war, and it is a struggle for our very
+existence. When the fighting is over, our young men will return to
+their homesteads, and gladden their families once more."
+
+"Do you think that you shall be able to withstand your foe?"
+
+"Allah is always on the side of justice, and He will give us the
+victory," rejoined the old man proudly. "Our land shall drink our blood
+ere we give up one foot of soil to the invader."
+
+We now rode towards Sekili, a village about twenty-seven miles from our
+sleeping quarters.
+
+Presently my grey horse began to walk lame. He had been kicked by the
+guide's animal on the previous day. My weight was too much for the
+poor little brute. I resolved to change horses with Osman, who was
+much lighter than myself. Calling the Turk to my side, I desired him
+to dismount, and then mounted the ambling steed. The pace of a Rahvan,
+or ambling horse, is an easy one for the rider; and the animal can get
+over the ground at the rate of about five miles an hour; the ordinary
+walk of the small Turkish horses being not much above three.
+
+We passed by some hovels. Their walls were built of marble; the roofs
+were made of beams covered with mud; the pure white rock presenting a
+striking contrast to its filthy surroundings. Marble abounds in this
+neighbourhood. Large blocks were lying on all sides of us, and along
+our path. Some ruins in the vicinity showed that hundreds of years ago
+the inhabitants of this part of Anatolia were able to utilize their
+quarries.
+
+Poor Turkey, she has descended the steps of civilization, and not
+ascended them like European nations.
+
+However, though mud hovels have replaced the marble palaces of
+the Turk's ancestors, the Turks themselves remain unchanged.
+Hospitality—their great virtue—is as rife in 1877 as in the days of
+Mohammed II. No matter where an Englishman may ask for shelter, he will
+never find a Mohammedan who will deny him admittance.
+
+We left behind us some mountains of slate, and rode over rich soil,
+which had been left fallow for miles around.
+
+"There are not inhabitants enough to cultivate the land," was the
+guide's answer to a question from me about the subject.
+
+He was doubtless right. Asia Minor, like Spain, needs a threefold
+population to develop her natural wealth. Let foreign settlers go
+to Anatolia. Let them make railways throughout the country, it could
+supply the whole of Great Britain with corn, and the mines of coal
+and of other minerals would prove a source of immense wealth to the
+inhabitants.
+
+Later in the day we passed a Kurdish encampment. The Kurds all lived
+in circular black tents, and some women, with unveiled faces, rushed
+outside the dwellings to see the strangers pass.
+
+The Turkish authorities have great difficulty in collecting the
+taxes from this nomad race. Whenever the Kurds expect a visit from
+the tax-collector, they pack up their chattels and migrate to the
+mountains. Here they can place the Turkish officer at defiance, and
+only return to the plains when their spies have announced the enemy's
+departure. A few years ago the wealth of the Kurdish sheiks was very
+considerable; many of them owned twenty, and even thirty thousand
+sheep, besides large droves of horses, and numerous herds of cattle.
+The famine, however, which devastated the province, was as disastrous
+for the Kurds as for the Turks. It has left them in a wretched state of
+poverty.
+
+The Delidsche Ermak, a tributary of the Kizil Ermak, crossed our path.
+There was no bridge, and we had some difficulty in finding a ford. At
+last the marks of some horses' hoofs showed our guide the exact spot:
+riding into the stream—here about fifty yards wide—and with the water
+up to his horse's girths, he piloted us over in safety. The bottom of
+the river is firm. I was informed that the stream becomes very shallow
+during the summer months; the inhabitants can then cross it with their
+ox-carts.
+
+The village of Sekili is made up of twenty mud hovels. Our
+accommodation for the night was not of a luxurious kind. But
+after a long and tiring march a man speedily reconciles himself to
+circumstances. A fire was lit. Two old hens were stewing in the pot. A
+kettle full of tea simmered on the fire; and with a pipe after dinner,
+things looked a little brighter than at first. We next traversed a
+district abounding with salt. The soil sparkled in the sun. The crystal
+substance was visible for a considerable distance. Presently some
+Turkoman girls, with high, picturesque head-dresses, rode by us at
+a gallop: their merry laughter rang in the air as they passed. Soon
+afterward we came to their village, the habitations being nothing
+more or less than a few holes in the side of a hill. The Turkomans
+pronounce Turkish rather differently to the Turks. At first I had some
+little difficulty in making myself understood. Indeed, a man must be a
+polyglot to know all the languages spoken in Anatolia. Armenian, Greek,
+Circassian, Kurdish, Tartar, Persian, Georgian, and Arabic, besides
+Turkish, are heard within a radius of one hundred miles. The different
+sounds in these languages are very puzzling to a stranger who is trying
+to perfect himself in Turkish.
+
+Some Turkomans, dressed in white tunics, broad red trousers, and with
+grey sashes round their waists, were sitting idly at the entrance to
+their burrows. A woman, in a crimson dressing-gown, and a few girls,
+with naught on save long white shifts, and caps, were busily engaged in
+drawing water from a neighbouring well. Some goats, which had descended
+the hill, were feeding on the roofs of the houses.
+
+We entered one of the dwellings, but so many fleas were hopping about
+that I determined to eat my lunch in the open air. The proprietor of
+the hovel was very much surprised at our preferring the cold outside to
+the shelter of his domicile.
+
+"My Effendi does not like fleas," said Osman.
+
+"There are not many here!" said the proprietor. "It does not do to be
+particular. In Sekili," he continued, "fleas abound, the Effendi ought
+to be accustomed to them by this time."
+
+"What does he say, sir?" asked Radford, as Osman gradually explained
+the Turkoman's remarks to me.
+
+"Say! He says that you ought to be accustomed to fleas by this time."
+
+"Accustomed, sir? No, but they are getting accustomed to me. Haldershot
+is a joke to this here Turkey so far as fleas are concerned."
+
+Presently my servant continued,—
+
+"These Turks, sir, ain't got no decent tobacco, why a pipeful of
+cavendish, or good bird's hi, is worth all the hay they smoke. No
+wonder people in England abuse the Turks—and quite right too. Men who
+might grow shag tobacco, and prefer growing hay tobacco, can't be of
+much account."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+     A victim to the famine—Daili—A conversation with some
+     Turkomans—The massacre of the Teke Turkomans by the
+     Russians—Women violated—Little boys and girls abused and
+     murdered—The Muscovite is a beast—Should not you like to cut
+     the throats of all the Russians?—What is the best way to
+     get rid of a wasp's nest?—A war of extermination—Yuzgat—A
+     cavalcade of horsemen—Mr. Vankovitch—The telegram—Our
+     reception—Old friends of the Crimea—Some visitors—Things have
+     altered for the better—The Christians at Yuzgat—Armenians and
+     Turks dine together—Mr. Vankovitch's experiences—The Polish
+     insurrection—General Muravieff—Brutality to the women at
+     Vilna.
+
+
+On the track once more; and now we came to a large stone, in the middle
+of the path. This marked the resting-place of a victim to the recent
+famine. The poor fellow had fallen down from exhaustion, and had died
+on this spot. It was too much trouble for the survivors to move his
+corpse, they had made a hole and buried him where he lay.
+
+My grey horse, which Osman was riding, still went very lame; so I
+limited our march to six hours, and stopped at the little village of
+Daili. Here there were only fifteen houses. Many camels and herds of
+cattle were grazing in the neighbourhood, and the ground appeared to
+have been cultivated for a considerable distance. On this occasion
+the fortune of travellers gave us better quarters. The house in which
+we were lodged was clean. A raised dais of wood was set apart for the
+servants. Mattresses with cushions were reserved for the proprietor and
+his guests.
+
+There were some Turkomans in the village, and when the news was spread
+that an Englishman had arrived, several of them came to see me.
+
+"We are so glad to see an Englishman," said an old man, the spokesman
+for their party.
+
+Osman now interrupted him.
+
+"Effendi, they want to tell you that they hate the Muscovites, and that
+they hope England will not allow the Tzar's soldiers to massacre them
+like they (the Russians) massacred the Teke Turkomans."
+
+"Were many women and children belonging to the Teke Turkomans killed by
+the Russians?"
+
+The old man shook his head.
+
+"Many! many!" he replied. "The women were violated by the soldiers.
+The little boys and girls were abused and then murdered. The men took
+pleasure in these awful crimes. The Muscovite is a beast! He is worse
+than a hyena; the hyena sucks the blood of his victim, but the Russian
+satisfies his lust first, and then tears to pieces the object of his
+pleasure."
+
+"We hear," he continued, "you have as Padishah, a lady. What does she
+think of this way of treating the Turkoman's little ones?"[13]
+
+"And what do you think yourself?" he added. "Should not you like to cut
+the throats of all the Russians?"
+
+This was rather a strong way of dealing with the question. However,
+if I had been a Turkoman, and my own sisters had been treated by the
+Russians in the way the Turkoman women have been, I should have looked
+upon the matter from a Turkoman point of view.
+
+"They are not all equally guilty," I replied.
+
+"Equally guilty! Yes they are. From the Tzar upon his throne to the
+soldiers who do his bidding they are a nation of assassins! What is the
+best way to get rid of a wasp's nest?" he now inquired.
+
+"Smoke it, and destroy the young ones," I replied.
+
+"Well, that," said the Turkoman, "is what we must do with the Russians.
+We must kill them all. And Allah will be with us; for He knows who
+began the butchery."
+
+"Have many men gone from this village to the army?" I asked.
+
+"Every able-bodied man is serving, and we are now, all of us, going
+to the front; greybeards as well as boys. We feel that it is a war of
+extermination. If we do not defend our homesteads, woe betide us!"
+
+On leaving Daili the track was firm and good for the first three hours;
+it then became very precipitous, and led down steep declivities, and
+over a succession of boulders. At last we came to a large circular
+plain; it was surrounded by hills; on one side of this vast natural
+basin, and on a slope, lay Yuzgat.
+
+As we were nearing the walls a cavalcade of horsemen appeared in
+sight. One of them advancing saluted us by touching his fez, and then
+addressed me in excellent French. He was a Pole, Vankovitch by name,
+and was employed as chief engineer in the district. He had received a
+telegram from the Italian doctor, M. Gasparini, of Angora, to say that
+I was on the road, and had ridden out with some Armenian gentlemen to
+welcome us to the town.
+
+An Armenian now asked me to take up my quarters in his house. I had
+been lodged beneath a Turkish roof at Angora, and was curious to see
+the difference between the Christian and Mussulman mode of living. I
+gladly accepted the offer.
+
+Many more horsemen, Turks and Armenians, joined us ere we entered
+the city. I now learnt that my kind friend, the Bey at Angora, had
+telegraphed to some of his acquaintances, asking them to do what they
+could to make my stay at Yuzgat pleasant.
+
+The news of the approach of an Englishman had already been spread
+through the town. The inhabitants had all turned out to have a look at
+the stranger.
+
+"An Englishman in Yuzgat is indeed a surprise for the inhabitants,"
+said a young Turk who was riding by my side. "I do not believe that one
+of your nation has been here for the last twenty years. We Turks are
+not ungrateful," he continued, with a smile. "We have not forgotten our
+old friends of the Crimea, and what you did for us then."
+
+"Please God you will do as much now!" said another horseman. "Anyhow
+your arrival has created an immense excitement; there was not so great
+a crowd to see the Pasha of Angora, when he paid us a visit."
+
+"Sir," observed Radford, who, surprised at the tremendous ovation I was
+receiving from the crowd, had gradually sidled up to my horse, "this
+reminds me of our riding after Don Carlos in Spain. Only in Spain, all
+the people came to look at Don Carlos, and here they have come to look
+at us. Just, sir, for all the world as if we were a Lord Mayor with his
+men in harmour riding in state by the Horse Guards. There have been a
+lot of dirty Turks kissing Osman already, so pleased they seem to see
+him; and two or three men were slobbering over my boots as we rode up
+the hill!"
+
+We entered a courtyard: dismounting, I ascended some steps which led
+to my host's house. The room placed at my disposal was furnished in
+a similar fashion to the one which I had inhabited in Angora. Several
+servants hastened to pull off my riding-boots, and the proprietor said
+that some Armenians were waiting outside, they wished to speak to me.
+"Would I see them?"
+
+"By all means," I replied; "show them in."
+
+Several men entered; they were dressed in various costumes, the
+dressing-gown pattern being evidently a favourite amidst the
+inhabitants of Yuzgat. The visitors ranged themselves against the wall
+in order, according to their social positions, and then salaamed me.
+On my returning the salute, the gentlemen squatted down upon the floor,
+and the salaaming ceremony was repeated.
+
+"They have come to ask whether you will honour them by inspecting the
+Armenian school," said my host, who, of higher rank than the visitors,
+had not squatted down on the floor, but was seated with his legs tucked
+under him on the divan.
+
+"We are all Christians," said an old, and very dirty Armenian, who
+looked as if water and he had long been strangers to each other.
+
+"It is a pleasure to see a Christian," he added. "It does me good."
+
+"We are all delighted!" said the rest of the company. Whereupon we
+salaamed again.
+
+"How do you like the Turks?" I now inquired.
+
+"They get on very well together," observed the Pole, who had
+accompanied me home, "and the law is carried out very fairly for all
+classes. I will give you an instance. The chief of the telegraphs
+in Yuzgat is an Armenian. One day he saw a few Turkish boys teazing
+some Armenian children, and calling them giaours. He beat the Turkish
+children. Some Turks, coming up, took the part of the Mohammedan lads,
+and struck the telegraph-man. The latter complained to the authorities;
+the Turks who had beaten him were at once imprisoned."
+
+"Twenty years ago this would not have happened," said another of the
+visitors; "but here things have altered for the better."
+
+"However, at Sivas," he continued, "you will find that the Christians
+are horribly ill-treated by their Pacha. The prison is full of
+Christians. There is no sort of justice in that city. The Pacha takes
+away Christian little boys and girls from their parents, and shuts them
+up in his seraglio."
+
+"Is this true?" I inquired of Mr. Vankovitch.
+
+"They say so. But you must remember that you are in the East," was the
+Pole's reply.
+
+"Personally," he added, "I make a rule to believe nothing except what
+I see myself. You are going to Sivas?"
+
+"Yes."
+
+"Well, you will be able to judge for yourself. At all events, the
+Christians in this town are not oppressed in any way. You see Armenians
+and Turks dining together at the same table, and so far as justice
+is concerned, the Christians obtain quite as much of it as the
+Mohammedans."
+
+The Armenians, who by this time had finished their coffee, now left
+the room; and Mr. Vankovitch remaining behind, began to tell me of his
+experiences in Asia Minor, and of the cause which had induced him to
+leave his own country.
+
+He had been educated in the Military College at St. Petersburg, and
+had passed his examination for the engineers just before the Polish
+insurrection. He had joined the rebels, and taking command of a large
+band which had assembled near Vilna, had fought against the Russians
+for more than two years. General Muravieff, known to history by his
+brutality to the women of Vilna, published four proclamations offering
+rewards for Vankovitch's head. Fortune favoured the young Pole, who
+was able to escape his foes. When the rebellion was suppressed, he
+succeeded in reaching Odessa, and made his way on board a Greek ship
+bound for Constantinople. After being two days at sea, the vessel,
+owing to bad weather, was obliged to put back into harbour. The captain
+then said, that as some Russian officers would be certain to come
+on board, it would be better for Vankovitch to remain concealed in a
+friend's house, until the ship could sail. He took the advice; but left
+all his clothes and other effects in the cabin.
+
+The vessel started that night; he did not receive any warning, and the
+captain, carrying off his luggage, robbed him of everything he had in
+the world. The Polish committee in Odessa raised a little money for
+their brother in misfortune: after paying for his passage in another
+steamer, he arrived at Constantinople with barely five pounds in his
+pocket. This was soon spent, and then in order to earn his bread, he
+obtained employment as a road-maker. The engineer who superintended the
+work discovered that the navvy knew as much about road-making as he did
+himself. He promoted him to be assistant-engineer.
+
+Vankovitch complained that he was unable to write to his father,
+a gentleman who resided near Vilna. The engineer had sent two or
+three letters; but on each occasion the envelopes were opened by the
+Russian police, and the parent had been heavily fined, simply because
+Vankovitch had dared to write to him.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+     M. Perrot—Armenian customs—Man and wife—We keep our wives
+     for ourselves—My host's niece—Law about divorce—Shutting up
+     the wives—Turkish husbands—How to get a divorce—Marrying
+     a divorced woman—Population of Yuzgat—Crime—Mines in the
+     neighbourhood—Tax paid in lieu of military service—The
+     Circassians—Their promise to the Turkish Government—Tax
+     on land; on house-property; on corn—Cattle—Collectors of
+     taxes—Jealousy about religious matters—Dissensions amongst
+     Christians—American Missionaries—A loyal address—The market—A
+     bazaar two stories high—A walk through the town—Gipsy
+     women—An elderly dame—Obstreperous young ladies—The old woman
+     dances.
+
+
+My host now returned, and informed me that M. Perrot, a French author
+who wrote a book about Asia Minor, had resided beneath this roof. On
+turning over the leaves of the work, which had found its way to Yuzgat,
+I came to a page in which M. Perrot observes that "one day I inquired
+of my host why he did not introduce me to the lady of the house?"
+
+"It is our custom," was the reply. "And I find it a wise one. What good
+does it do me if other men see my wife? I took her for myself; she is
+my property. I have heard that you Europeans spoil your wives; mine is
+educated properly. When I enter my harem, she comes to kiss my hand,
+then she stands upright before me in a respectful attitude, and she
+only opens her mouth when I address her."
+
+On showing my host the paragraph, he observed, "When M. Perrot was
+here, my father owned this house. I remember the circumstance well. I
+was in the room when M. Perrot asked my father to introduce him to my
+mother. I suppose my parent was under the impression that in Europe
+you keep your wives for your guests; but anyhow we keep our wives for
+ourselves."
+
+"What!" I inquired, "would you not introduce me to your sisters or
+mother?"
+
+"No, certainly not."
+
+Mr. Vankovitch here interposed with the remark that on the following
+day my host's niece was to be affianced to her future husband; that the
+bridegroom had not set eyes upon the face of his intended, and no one
+in Yuzgat, save her own immediate relatives, had ever seen the young
+lady.
+
+"Well," I inquired, "and if the wife of an Armenian is unfaithful to
+him, can he obtain a divorce?"
+
+"No," replied my host; "our religion does not allow of such a step; he
+does not even see his wife's face before marriage."
+
+"Then he has no opportunity of studying her character, and she has no
+opportunity of studying his."
+
+"No."
+
+"They are a set of fools," said Vankovitch to me in Russian, this
+language not being understood by the proprietor. "They think that by
+shutting up their wives, they can keep them out of mischief, but the
+husbands are very much mistaken."
+
+"We need not be surprised at it," he continued; "an Armenian lady is
+in no way educated. She is confined in a harem. She is the slave of her
+husband, and has to do all sorts of menial work for him—wash his feet,
+rub them dry, and wait at table. From her earliest childhood a girl
+is brought up to consider herself as a slave in her father's house;
+until the Armenians abandon these barbarous customs, their so-called
+Christianity will not do them much good. A Turkish husband has no
+difficulty in obtaining a divorce—in fact he is not even put to the
+expense of going to a court of law. All he has to do is to say, in the
+presence of a witness, 'I renounce you,' and he is at once freed from
+his wife, who is at liberty to go where she likes, and marry whomsoever
+she pleases."
+
+"If a Turk," added Mr. Vankovitch, "once renounces his wife before a
+witness, he cannot withdraw his renunciation. There is a story that a
+woman, who wished to be divorced from her husband, dressed up one of
+her female slaves in man's clothes and provided her with false whiskers
+and beard. On entering the harem late at night the husband found this
+disguised figure lying by the side of his wife. He was furious, and at
+once renounced the, as he thought, faithless lady. There is a curious
+law about marrying a divorced woman which is not generally known by
+Europeans," continued the speaker. "If a Turk has divorced his wife,
+but she wishes to return to him and he to take her, the lady first of
+all must be married to some other man, and the rites in their entirety
+be accomplished; the new spouse then divorces her. After this process
+she can return to her former husband.
+
+"A husband who wishes to take to himself again his divorced wife,
+generally chooses some beggar, almost always a very old man; he then
+offers this elderly individual a sum of money to marry the lady and
+afterwards renounce her. Sometimes, however, there are difficulties in
+carrying out these arrangements. The lady takes a fancy to the beggar,
+and the beggar to the lady. The pauper will not divorce her, and the
+original husband is laughed at by the rest of the community."
+
+There were 10,000 inhabitants in Yuzgat, but there was very little
+crime. Only one execution had taken place during the last fifteen
+years, and this had been for murder.
+
+The town itself is, comparatively speaking, of recent date, its
+construction dating back 130 years. The neighbourhood abounds with
+mines, and I was assured that iron, silver, and coal had been found
+near the city.
+
+The Armenians did not serve in the army as soldiers; but in lieu of
+military service, paid the Ottoman Government twenty-eight piastres
+thirty-two paras every year for each male child, from his birth to his
+death.
+
+The Circassians, of whom there are a great many in this part of
+Turkey, are not compelled to join the army; but they have promised the
+Government that every able-bodied man amongst them shall turn out as an
+irregular horse or foot soldier, should his services be required.
+
+The people in the province of Angora are taxed as follows:—If ground is
+cultivated, the proprietor gives the Sultan the tithe of the crop.
+
+The owner of a house pays 4_l._ per 1000_l._ of the estimated value
+of his abode, that is to say, if he is living in it himself. If on the
+contrary he lets it, he must pay 40_l._ per 1000_l._ The tax for people
+engaged in trade or commerce, is 30 per cent. on their profits. If a
+merchant sells corn in a town, he has to pay a duty of two paras for
+every twenty okas of grain purchased from him, and should he dispose of
+a horse, sheep, or ox, in the market-place, he must give the Government
+2½ per cent. of the proceeds of the sale. A farmer has to pay the
+Government four piastres a year if he is the owner of a goat, and three
+for each sheep he possesses. The collectors of taxes in almost every
+instance were Mohammedans; many of the Christians grumbled at the way
+they were assessed.
+
+If an Armenian girl expresses a wish to become a Mohammedan, this gives
+rise to great jealousy between the Turks and Christians. At the same
+time the Armenians who profess the Armenian faith detest any member
+of their community who has accepted the Roman Catholic or Protestant
+doctrines. The Christians being much more intolerant towards the
+dissenters from their respective creeds than the Turks are to the
+Christians.
+
+There has hardly ever been an instance of a Turk accepting
+Christianity, but the American missionaries in Asia Minor were said to
+have converted many Armenians to Protestantism.
+
+The Roman Catholic missionaries have not been idle. A number of
+Armenians no longer reverence the Patriarch in Constantinople, but look
+upon the Pope as the Head of their Church.
+
+The Turks laugh in their sleeves at the discord in the ranks of the
+Christian community. They cannot understand why so much hatred and
+ill-feeling should exist between people who worship the same Messias.
+
+This difference of opinion amongst the Christians is by no means
+displeasing to the Turkish authorities; it renders any union between
+the Armenians and Russia exceedingly difficult.
+
+The following morning a servant brought a paper to my host for his
+signature. It was a loyal address from the principal people in Yuzgat
+thanking the Sultan for the Constitution. None of the Armenians
+believed in the reform. Most of them held the same opinion as the
+inhabitants of Angora, namely, that the projected Constitution was
+thrown out as a bait to catch some of the plenipotentiaries at the
+Conference, and that when the Conference was forgotten the Constitution
+would be numbered with the past.
+
+Vankovitch now called. I walked with him to the market which he was
+constructing for the townspeople. It was not a large building, being
+about eighty yards long by thirty wide; the houses were each of them
+two stories high, built of hewn stone and with glass windows; the
+latter a great luxury for the natives, glass having to be brought all
+the way from Samsoun, a port on the Black Sea. The difficulties of
+transport were very great, half the glass arrived in a fractured state,
+this, and the extreme difficulty of carriage, added enormously to its
+cost price.
+
+In the market there was literally nothing which would have attracted an
+observer's attention. Some of the Armenians sold dye, wood, and goat's
+hair; others traded in cotton stuffs and calicos, one or two American
+lamps to burn petroleum were in the window of a small shop which was
+kept by a Greek.
+
+The engineer had experienced considerable difficulty in persuading
+the townspeople to let him construct a bazaar two stories high. "Our
+fathers have always been satisfied with one story," remarked the
+tradesmen, "then why should not we?"
+
+In spite of the opposition, Vankovitch, with the Caimacan's assistance
+had managed to carry the day. The people who had grumbled the loudest
+about the new order of things, were the first to take apartments in the
+two-storied building.
+
+We continued our walk through narrow lanes, and by the side of
+tumble-down hovels, till we arrived on the summit of a hill, the
+outskirts of the town. Some good-looking gipsy women with brown
+complexions, large dark eyes, and long black hair, were standing at the
+door of one of these habitations.
+
+"These are the dancers," said Vankovitch; "Dr. Gasparini telegraphed
+from Angora to ask me to arrange a gipsy dance for you. Let us go and
+talk to one of the old women, and choose the girls who are to perform."
+
+An elderly dame recognized my companion; she advanced, and invited us
+to enter her house. When our errand was known, great excitement ensued
+amidst the younger damsels of the gipsy community. Each one trusted
+that her good looks and skill in the Terpsichorean art would influence
+my companion in his choice.
+
+"Be quiet!" said the old woman indignantly to some of the more
+obstreperous of her young ladies, who, to show my companion their
+agility, were performing a sort of cancan step, very different from
+those dances which I had hitherto seen in the East.
+
+"Now, then, Effendi," to my companion, "how many girls do you require?"
+
+"Three."
+
+"Well, three you shall have. The most beautiful and gazelle-like of
+our tribe. I will come myself," continued the old lady, "and I too will
+dance, if only to show the Frank Effendi what our dance is like."
+
+It was as much as I could do to keep my countenance; the old woman was
+very fat; some of the girls, catching my eye, went off into fits of
+laughter.
+
+"Ah! you may laugh, children," said the old woman indignantly, "but
+none of you can dance like I can. They are not supple like I am,
+Effendi. They cannot move their hips. They cannot sway the lower part
+of their bodies. Look here!"
+
+And straightening her aged limbs, the old woman commenced wriggling her
+different joints, the girls applauding her, and beating time with their
+hands to each movement of the dancer's body.
+
+"Very good," said Vankovitch, as she sank down on a divan, with a force
+which would have smashed any less strong piece of furniture. "Very
+good. You dance like a stag. You shall come too."
+
+"Thank heavens," he remarked in French, "that she did not throw herself
+on to my lap, for this is the custom of these wild dancers; if she had
+done so, there would not have been much left of me. But come along, let
+us return; it is very stuffy here."
+
+After making an appointment with the old lady for the dancers to
+come to us on the following evening, we descended the hill and walked
+towards the principal mosque in the town.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+     The Mosque—The interior of the building—The lamps
+     of different-coloured crystal—The Turks engaged in
+     prayer—Comparison between Christians and Mussulmans—Daravish
+     Bey—A wonderful shot—_Djerrid_—A strange request—The
+     chase—A Bosnian lady—Her costume—A side-saddle—Even their
+     women go out hunting—Daravish Bey dressed for the chase—A
+     long shot—The price of a horse's forage—Most servants rob
+     their masters—A Russian officer—The Armenian schools—The
+     girls' school—Perhaps you would like to ask the boys some
+     questions?—An amateur setter of questions—Mr. Marillier of
+     Harrow school.—A sum—The schoolboys of Yuzgat—A half-holiday.
+
+
+On taking off our shoes at the entrance, we were at once admitted into
+a large building constructed in the form of a dome. Two vast circular
+halls leading the one into the other, were beneath the lofty ceiling.
+Stained glass windows, with infinitesimally small panes, allowed but
+little light to penetrate to the interior, which was carpeted with rich
+Persian rugs of many hues and fashions. Chains, descending from the
+centre of the building, supported a huge circular hoop of iron. From
+this were suspended a hundred lamps of different-coloured crystal. Two
+enormous wax candles, each as thick as a man's leg, and about seven
+feet high, were fixed in a corner of the building. They had been made
+to last a year, and had cost "tchok para"—a great many paras.
+
+The attendant evidently thought that he should impress my mind with
+this announcement, and he uttered the word "tchok" in a way which no
+Englishman could imitate save when he is in the extreme agonies of
+sea-sickness. Forty or fifty Turks were lying on the floor, and seemed
+to be in no way disturbed by the entrance of Mr. Vankovitch and myself.
+
+"Are there always as many people here?" I inquired.
+
+"There are very few to-day," was the reply; "but at whatever hour you
+may enter, the faithful will be found praying to the All-powerful One
+who rules the Universe."
+
+This, indeed, I subsequently discovered to be the case. No matter how
+early or late I might enter a mosque, there were always some men on
+their knees, praying to the Almighty; and whenever a service was going
+on, the mosques were invariably crowded.
+
+"They pray more than Europeans do," said my companion, the engineer,
+as we quitted the mosque. "With us," he added, "the women throng the
+churches, the men are conspicuous by their absence; in Turkey you will
+hardly ever meet a man who is in the habit of absenting himself from
+his mosque. Indeed, a Mohammedan's superstitious feelings would not
+allow him to do so, even if he felt inclined; he would think that the
+Divine vengeance would at once pursue him to his destruction."
+
+We now called upon a Turkish gentleman, Daravish Bey. Presently
+he left the room, and, returning, brought an old flint-gun, marked
+"London, 1802." He next suggested that we should join him in a shooting
+excursion, and, calling a servant, desired the man to bring in a
+falcon. This, Daravish Bey said, would be very useful, as, if we missed
+the partridges, the hawk would catch them for us.
+
+"We shall then have some game to show when we return," he continued,
+"and the people will not be able to laugh at our beards."
+
+"Vankovitch is a wonderful shot," said another Turk. "He shoots
+partridges flying! Only think! flying in the air! In the name of
+heaven, is it not wonderful? Can you hit a partridge, except when he is
+quite still?"
+
+"Sometimes," I said; "but, unfortunately, most of my cartridges are
+wet; any how, I will try and find a few dry ones, and will go with you
+to-morrow."
+
+"There is another thing which you must see before you leave Yuzgat,"
+observed Daravish Bey, "and that is our national game, Djerrid. I have
+already spoken about it," he continued; "the day after to-morrow all
+the best riders in the neighbourhood will assemble on the plain outside
+the town. In the meantime, I hope that you will dine with me this
+evening."
+
+"But I am staying with an Armenian gentleman, and he will expect me to
+dine at home."
+
+"Bring him with you. Nay, do not disappoint me," he added. "It is many
+years since an Englishman has been at Yuzgat, and we do not know how
+to honour one sufficiently when he is here. England and Turkey are old
+allies, and God grant that they may remain so!"
+
+I returned to my quarters, and found the Caimacan, who had come to
+pay me a visit. He was very busy, as he had to arrange for some redif
+soldiers who were to be despatched at once to Constantinople. After a
+few compliments and a cup of coffee, he arose and took his departure.
+
+My host now observed,—
+
+"Effendi, will you do me a favour?"
+
+"What is it?" I inquired.
+
+"Mr. Vankovitch has discharged one of his under officers, an Armenian.
+The man is a friend of mine—will you ask Mr. Vankovitch to pardon my
+friend, and reinstate him in his situation?"
+
+"The officer is a thief," said the engineer, "for that reason I got rid
+of him. But this remark of our host will show you what sort of people
+these Armenians are. He is well aware that the fellow is a rogue. He
+knows that I do not wish to take him back; to try and make me do so,
+he asks you, who are ignorant of the circumstances, to intercede in the
+matter."
+
+"You will intercede?" said the host.
+
+"How can I? Mr. Vankovitch must know the man's character better than I
+do."
+
+"But Mr. Vankovitch would do it if you asked him."
+
+"I certainly shall not give him the opportunity of refusing," I
+replied. And seeing that I was obdurate, my host left off pressing me
+for the moment, but only to return to the attack on the following day.
+
+The next morning, and soon after daybreak, we assembled for the chase.
+The engineer had mounted me on a magnificent coal-black Arab. He
+himself rode a little bay, with good shoulders and fine action; whilst
+his wife, a Bosnian lady, who was attired in a light blue riding-habit,
+a hat with a peacock's feather, and who wore on her boot a long cavalry
+spur—was mounted on a chestnut.
+
+Vankovitch had slung his gun across his shoulders. His double-breasted
+shooting-coat was dotted with cartridge-cases in the Circassian
+style. He was an object of great interest to a crowd of bystanders,
+and was evidently the chasseur par excellence of Yuzgat. Some Turkish
+women, wrapped up in long white sheets, stared through the corners of
+their veils at Mrs. Vankovitch, and were very much astonished at the
+proceedings, for the lady was on a side-saddle, which the engineer had
+lately received from Constantinople. It was only the first or second
+time that it had been seen in Yuzgat. The giaour woman balanced on a
+peg on the side of the saddle was a source of considerable wonder to
+the assembled crowd.
+
+"How odd these giaours are!" said a Turk to his neighbour. "Why, even
+their women go out hunting! What a thing to ride on! Look, she has
+only one foot in the stirrup, and her other leg is across a peg in the
+saddle."
+
+"How could you sit cross-legged if you had on that very thin, long
+dressing-gown which she is wearing?" said another bystander. "But here
+come Daravish Bey and his brother. They are actually going with the
+Frank to the chase!"
+
+The attention of the crowd was now taken up by the new arrivals.
+
+The two Turkish gentlemen were both dressed alike in black cloaks lined
+with fur, and which descended to their heels. Gold necklaces passing
+through diamond rings encircled each man's neck. Red waistcoats,
+buttoned up high in front, exposed to view an inch or two of limp,
+unstarched shirt-front; loose black trousers covered their legs, and a
+blue and white shabrach their highly-gilded saddles.
+
+An attendant on a pony bore a falcon on his arm. Some pointers and a
+greyhound brought up the rear of the procession. Radford carried my
+double-barrelled gun, and a few cartridges, which on careful inspection
+seemed not to have been damaged by the wetting in the river. He was
+also a source of wonder to the crowd. It was whispered about that the
+gun which he carried was like the Pole's fire-arm, and that it would
+sometimes shoot partridges on the wing.
+
+We rode over a mountain, covered with pebbles. Presently one of the
+pointers began to sniff. Vankovitch thought that there was some game
+close at hand. He dismounted from his horse, accompanied by Daravish
+Bey, who was armed with the old English flint-gun. A crowd of men
+and urchins, who had followed us on foot from Yuzgat, watched the
+proceedings with the greatest interest. Suddenly a covey of partridges
+rose about a hundred and fifty yards from the Pole. Two reports sounded
+in rapid succession, the birds flew away untouched. The attendant
+released the falcon, and in a few seconds a partridge was in its claws.
+
+A hare broke from behind an adjacent rock. In a moment we were in
+headlong pursuit, the Bosnian lady riding foremost of the flight, her
+horse taking the boulders and loose rocks which strewed the path in a
+way that showed he was well accustomed to this style of hunting.
+
+A well-known sound made me turn my head. To my surprise I saw a young
+Turk galloping after me on Osman's horse—the roarer. I had given orders
+that the animal was to be left in the stable, so that he might recover
+from the effect of our forced marches the week before.
+
+"What are you doing with that horse?"
+
+"Effendi, I am galloping him," was the quiet reply. "Osman lent him
+to me, and said that he was his property. Have I done wrong in riding
+him?"
+
+"Yes," I said; "take him back at once."
+
+"Sir," interrupted Radford, "that is just like Osman's himpudence,
+a-lending things which don't belong to him, and he is not that
+particular in returning them either. He is always asking me to lend
+him some tobacco, and very little I ever see of it again, except in the
+smoke which comes out of his mouth."
+
+"How much are you paying for the forage of your horses?" now inquired
+Vankovitch, who had returned with the hare in his hand.
+
+"About seven shillings a day."
+
+The Pole began to laugh.
+
+"Seven shillings! Do you know, my dear sir, that your Turkish servant
+is robbing you?"
+
+"Very likely," I replied. "Most servants rob their masters. But what is
+the price of a horse's forage for a day?"
+
+"About one-and-a-half piastres, or at the present rate of exchange
+about twopence of your money. And chickens," continued Vankovitch,
+"what has he made you pay for them in the different villages on your
+route?"
+
+"A shilling a piece."
+
+"He is a thief," said the Pole, "you have been awfully cheated! why,
+the price in the town is only three halfpence for a fat chicken!
+When we return to Yuzgat, send for your man, and let me ask him a few
+questions. You shall not be robbed any more if I can help it. It is a
+bad thing for other European travellers, and it gives the inhabitants
+a lesson in robbery. There was a Russian officer here a few years ago.
+He had been paying as much as a medjidi a day for each of his horses.
+However, he was a Russian, and it did not so much matter."
+
+The following day I went to see the Armenian schools. In one of them I
+found 200 girls who, for Turkey, were receiving a fair education. Most
+of them could read and write. A class for learning embroidery was well
+attended, some of the elder girls' work being very neatly finished.
+There were two Mohammedan children in a sewing class. I was informed
+that many of the Mussulmans had expressed a wish to send their children
+to the school.
+
+"Perhaps you would like to ask the boys some questions," said a priest
+who accompanied me through the building.
+
+Now if there is one thing I dislike it is being turned into an
+examiner. There is always a chance of the boys knowing a great deal
+more than the amateur setter of questions. But, as the clergyman
+pressed me, I tried to remember some of the sums which I had once
+learned under the tuition of my highly esteemed old master Mr.
+Marillier of Harrow.
+
+The herring and a half sum would have been too easy; I bethought myself
+of another.
+
+"Well," said the priest, a little impatiently, "they are waiting for
+you."
+
+There was a dead pause, and I gave the worthy divine the following
+question: "If one man can mow a field in three days, and another man in
+four, how long will they be doing the work, if they are both mowing it
+together?"
+
+"Come," said the divine, "you have set them a very easy sum," and he
+duly translated it into Armenian.
+
+"It is hardly worth doing," said one of the schoolmasters, "for of
+course the answer is three days and a half."
+
+"Of course, three and a half," said the priest.
+
+"No," I replied.
+
+The engineer began to laugh, and we soon afterwards left the school,
+neither masters nor pupils being at all certain in their minds as to
+how they ought to set about doing the sum.
+
+I breathed more freely on arriving in the open air, and blessed my old
+master, who had once set me this catch question, for my reputation as
+a profound mathematician is established for ever amidst this generation
+of school-boys in Yuzgat. After saying good-bye to the senior pedagogue
+who had accompanied me to the steps of the threshold, I asked him to
+give the lads a half-holiday. He very kindly acceded to my request;
+and a cheer from the boys inside, when the good news was imparted to
+them, made me aware that they, if not their masters, were in no way
+dissatisfied by my visit.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+     A visit to some Greeks—The Turkish administration—The
+     impalement story—The law is equally bad for Turks and
+     Christians—Peculiarity about the Armenians and Greeks in
+     Yuzgat—The outskirts of the town—An immense crowd—Women
+     clad in long white sheets—Throwing the djerrid—The game—We
+     rode better in our time—A marriage procession—Women riding
+     donkeys—The head of the Mohammedan religion at Yuzgat—The
+     respective merits of the Turkish and Christian faith—Allah
+     is very kind to all true believers—What is the good of
+     insuring?—An Armenian church—A raised platform enclosed
+     by trellis work—The occupants of the gallery—The women
+     will stare at the men—Ladies distract the attention of the
+     congregation—The Pole's house—A cheap servant.
+
+
+I called upon a Greek who had paid me a visit on the day of my arrival.
+Several of his compatriots were with him. They at once commenced
+conversing about what they suffered under the Turkish administration.
+
+"We are very badly treated," said one.
+
+"Very badly indeed," said another.
+
+"Are the Christians here ever tortured?" I inquired.
+
+"No."
+
+"Have you ever heard of any of them being impaled?"
+
+The company began to laugh.
+
+"No such things go on in Turkey," said my host; "but the law is bad,
+that is what we mean. Just before you arrived, we were talking about
+a Turk who had borrowed some money from one of our countrymen and
+had given a gun as security for the debt. The Turk died, and the
+Christian, not being paid what he was owed, sold the gun to a friend.
+Ten years afterwards a son of the deceased Turk came and claimed the
+weapon, which he said was his father's property, and consequently his
+own. There were no papers or witnesses to prove that the gun had been
+pledged, and the Cadi decided for the Mohammedan."
+
+"If a Turk had been in the Greek's place, would the same decision have
+been given?" I inquired.
+
+"Yes," was the answer; "the law is equally bad for Turks and
+Christians."
+
+There is one peculiarity about the Armenians and Greeks in Yuzgat which
+attracts the attention of the traveller, and this is that many of them
+cannot write their own language, although they employ its characters.
+Their conversation is almost invariably in Turkish. In corresponding
+with a friend, both Armenians and Greeks will write in Turkish, but
+with the Armenian or Greek letters. The schools, which are encouraged
+by the Mohammedan authorities are improving the Christians in this
+respect. The present generation of children can most of them speak, as
+well as write, in the language of their ancestors.
+
+Later on in the day I mounted my horse, and accompanied the engineer
+and his wife to the outskirts of the town. Here there is a vast natural
+basin formed by a circular chain of steep heights. Yuzgat,[14] which
+is built on the side of a hill, and with its houses towering above
+the plain looks down upon the enormous arena. An immense crowd was
+assembled. Horsemen were present of all nationalities, and clad in
+every kind of costume. Turks, Persians, Armenians, Greeks, Circassians,
+Tartars, Kurds, Turkomans, Georgians, were grouped together in little
+clusters, and talking to their fellow-countrymen. Hundreds of women,
+clad in long white sheets, had retired a short distance, and from a
+slight elevation were gazing down upon the assembled multitude.
+
+Presently the horsemen divided into two sides. Each man carried a
+djerrid or short stick, about four feet long, not quite so thick as a
+man's wrist, and weighted a little at one end. The right hand of the
+cavaliers grasped the middle of the djerrid. The two bands of mounted
+men, reining their horses back, halted facing each other, and about
+eighty yards apart.
+
+Now, at a signal from the leader of one side, a horseman dashed forward
+at the opposing band. Brandishing his djerrid in the air, and shouting
+wildly to Allah, he hurled it at one of his opponents. The latter, who
+was on his guard, turned his horse on his haunches, and galloped away
+in the same direction as the missile was coming. Reaching backward,
+the rider caught the stick, and was greeted by the applause of the
+bystanders.
+
+Meanwhile the horseman who had first attacked, hastened to regain his
+party. He was pursued in headlong career by one of the other side, who
+in his turn hurled the djerrid. The game requires considerable skill in
+horsemanship, and great nerve. The stick is thrown with all the rider's
+strength, augmented by the velocity with which his steed is galloping.
+If the missile be not caught or parried, but strike a man's body, the
+effect is often serious; bones are fractured. Death sometimes ensues.
+The horses too have to be highly trained, so as to be able to halt when
+at full speed, and, turning, to start off in a contrary direction.
+
+"We rode better in our time," said an old man, attired in a crimson
+dressing-gown, and who was eagerly watching the proceedings, to a
+companion by his side; "but what is that which is coming in this
+direction?"
+
+In the distance a marriage procession could be seen winding amidst
+the hills. A bride was being carried in a cart drawn by oxen to her
+bridegroom's house. A band playing discordant music marched in front.
+Several women enveloped in sheets of white muslin rode behind the
+vehicle. They were mounted on donkeys, and sat astride them like men.
+The position is a curious one, particularly when the lady wears a short
+dress.
+
+As the procession passed by the crowd, some of the donkeys began to
+trot. The motion became very disagreeable to the fair equestrians. The
+robes began to rise, and the husbands running forward, held down their
+wives' attire. This would have provoked the laughter of a European
+crowd, but in Turkey women are looked upon as beings to be shut off
+from the public gaze. The Mohammedan husband as a rule does not like
+any one to see him walking with his own wife. The children too look
+upon their father as a being far superior to themselves. The Turkish
+parent walks first along the road, the children next some fifty yards
+behind their father. Last of all comes the wife, alone and neglected.
+She accepts this lot with resignation—her mother was a slave before
+her, and she will remain one till death or divorce dissolve the
+marriage-tie.
+
+I now called upon the head of the Mohammedan religion at Yuzgat. He
+received me very courteously, and we conversed for some time upon the
+respective merits of the Mussulman and Christian faith. It appeared
+that very recently a house belonging to the Imaum (priest) had been
+burned to the ground.
+
+"I hope you did not lose much property," I remarked.
+
+"Everything I had was burned," said the old man. "But it did not
+signify. Allah was kind. The inhabitants raised a subscription for me.
+My house will soon be restored," he continued. "Allah is very good to
+all the true believers. If a house belonging to one of your Christian
+Mollahs (priests) be burned down, what does he do?" inquired the old
+Mohammedan.
+
+"His house is generally insured," I replied. "He pays a little money
+every year to a company, and then if the edifice is destroyed by fire,
+it is built up again for him."
+
+"Does he pay much money?"
+
+"Yes, if the house is a good one, he has to pay a large sum every year."
+
+"What is the good of paying at all?" said the Mohammedan. "Why does he
+not trust in Allah? That is what I have done. My new house will cost
+me nothing, God is great, there is but one God! And Mahomet, he is the
+Prophet of God," added the old man piously.
+
+"But I thought that you believed in Kismet—destiny," I remarked.
+
+"Destiny is great, but Allah is greater. He created destiny," was the
+reply.
+
+"Do you think that Allah can change His mind?"
+
+"He is All powerful; he can do what He likes," observed the Imaum
+excitedly.
+
+Later in the day I walked into an Armenian church. This was a large
+building, with red carpets, and rather reminded me of a mosque. It must
+sometimes have been bitterly cold inside, for there were no stoves in
+the building. I was informed that the upper classes who came to pray,
+all wore furs. As the lower orders are not able to pay for any such
+warm garments, they must occasionally be half-frozen when listening to
+their priest's oration.
+
+A raised platform at one end of the church was enclosed by
+trellis-work. It was so constructed that the occupants of the gallery
+could see the clergyman, without their attention being occupied by the
+congregation.
+
+"This gallery is for our women," said an Armenian, who showed me over
+the building; "and the trellis-work is to prevent them from staring at
+the men."
+
+"Or rather to prevent the men from staring at them!"
+
+My companion laughed at the remark.
+
+"It answers both purposes!" he exclaimed. "But if you look at the
+screen, you will see that it is broken in several places, three or
+four of the holes in the trellis-partition have been made into one. The
+women have done this to obtain a better view."
+
+"Do you not separate the women from the men in your churches?" he
+inquired.
+
+"No."
+
+"Then if the ladies are as pretty as they are said to be, your
+clergyman must find it rather difficult to keep the attention of his
+flock."
+
+It was getting dusk. I went straight from the church to the Pole's
+house. There was hardly any furniture in it. This he explained by
+saying that he was only temporarily employed at Yuzgat; so soon as he
+had finished building the new bazaar he would have to return to Angora.
+A few divans, as in the Turkish houses, surrounded the walls. The
+two-barrelled gun, which sometimes "shot partridges flying," the wonder
+of the other sportsmen in Yuzgat, was lying in a corner.
+
+After dinner, which was washed down by some very fair red wine,
+manufactured by the Christians in the town, a little boy, about twelve
+years of age, entered the room; coming up to my host, he whispered
+something in his ear.
+
+"The gipsies have arrived," said Vankovitch, turning to the lad. He
+desired him to lay down some carpets at the other end of the apartment.
+
+"That boy does not cost me much," said my host, pointing to his
+servant. "I found him starving in the streets a few years ago, during
+the famine. His mother had turned him out of doors. The child had
+nothing to eat. I took pity on the poor little fellow, and he has been
+with me ever since; he does more work than all the rest of the servants
+together. Whilst, if I wish to punish him, all I have to do is to point
+to the door."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+     The gipsies—A fearful instrument—The musicians—The
+     dancers—The chief of the gipsy women—Her attire—Vankovitch's
+     wife—A glass of raki—The fat woman—The man with the
+     bagpipes—The dance—The two girls—The old lady accompanies
+     them—The castanets—What is the good of dancing?—The
+     Lord Chamberlain, who is he?—The marriage festivals
+     in a harem—The old woman dances a _pas seul_—Osman's
+     interview with Vankovitch—Oh, Osman! thou descendant
+     of a line of thieves!—What is the meaning of this?—The
+     Effendi's horses—The people at the Khans—An undulating
+     country—Mostaphas—Unwillingness to fight their country's
+     battles—Several inhabitants killed in Servia—Industrious
+     insects—A country like the Saxon Switzerland—A district
+     abounding with pine forests—The telegraph wire to
+     Sivas—Sawmills—Gogderi Soo—A house with two rooms—The
+     stable—The fire—The harem—My host and his wives—Two shots
+     in the air—The ladies—Their legs—The discomfort of the
+     proprietor.
+
+
+Some gipsy men now entered, and, squatting down on the carpet, began
+to tune their lutes. One of their party carried a fearful instrument.
+It was rather like the bagpipes. He at once commenced a wild and
+discordant blast. The musicians were followed by the dancers.
+
+The chief of the gipsy women was provided with a tambourine. She was
+attired in a blue jacket, underneath this was a purple waistcoat,
+slashed with gold embroidery, a pair of very loose, yellow trousers
+covered her extremities. Massive gold earrings had stretched the
+lobes of her ears, they reached nearly to the shoulders, and by way
+of making herself thoroughly beautiful, and doing fit honour to the
+occasion, she had stained her teeth and finger-nails with some red
+dye. Her eyebrows had been made to meet by a line drawn with a piece of
+charcoal. Gold spangles were fastened to her black locks. Massive brass
+rings encircled her ankles, the metal jingling as she walked, or rather
+waddled round the room.
+
+The two girls who accompanied her were in similar costumes, but without
+the gold spangles for their hair, which hung in long tresses below
+their waists. The girls, advancing, took the hand of Vankovitch's wife,
+and placed it on their heads as a sort of deferential salute. The Pole
+poured out a glass of raki for the fat woman, who, though a Mohammedan,
+was not adverse to alcohol. She smacked her lips loudly; the man with
+the bagpipes gave vent to his feelings in a more awful sound than
+before; the lutes struck up in different keys, and the ball began.
+
+The two girls whirled round each other, first slowly, and then
+increased their pace till their long black tresses stood out at right
+angles from their bodies. The perspiration poured down their cheeks.
+The old lady, who was seated on a divan, now uncrossed her legs,
+beating her brass ankle-rings the one against the other, she added
+yet another noise to the din which prevailed. The girls snapped their
+castanets, and commenced wriggling their bodies around each other with
+such velocity that it was impossible to recognize the one from the
+other. All of a sudden, the music stopped. The panting dancers threw
+themselves down on the laps of the musicians.
+
+"What do you think of the performance?" said Vankovitch to me, as he
+poured out another glass of raki for the dancers. "It is real hard
+work, is it not?" Then, without waiting for an answer, he continued,
+"The Mohammedans who read of European balls, and who have never been
+out of Turkey, cannot understand people taking any pleasure in dancing.
+What is the good of it when I can hire some one else to dance for me?"
+is the remark.
+
+"They are not very wrong," I here observed; "that is, if they form an
+idea of European dances from their own. Our Lord Chamberlain would soon
+put a stop to these sort of performances in England."
+
+"The Lord Chamberlain, who is he?" inquired an Armenian who was
+present, and who spoke French.
+
+"He is an official who looks after public morals."
+
+"And do you mean to say that he would object to this sort of a dance?"
+
+"Yes."
+
+"But this is nothing," said Vankovitch. "When there is a marriage
+festival in a harem, the women arrange their costumes so that one
+article of attire may fall off after another during the dance. The
+performers are finally left in very much the same garb as our first
+parents before the fall. We shall be spared this spectacle, for my wife
+is here. The gipsies will respect her presence because they know that
+she is a European."
+
+Now the girls, calling upon the old woman, insisted that she too should
+dance. The raki had mounted into the old dame's head. Nothing loath,
+she acceded to their request; rising to her feet, she commenced a _pas
+seul_ in front of the engineer. First shrugging her shoulders, and then
+wriggling from head to toe, as if she were suffering from St. Vitus's
+dance, she finally concluded by kneeling before my hostess, and making
+a movement as if she would kiss her feet.
+
+The following morning, and just before my departure, the Pole, who had
+come to say good-bye to me, called Osman to his side.
+
+"The Effendi is paying two medjidis a day for his horses," remarked
+Vankovitch, "and six piastres for a chicken! Oh! Osman! thou descendant
+of a line of thieves! What is the meaning of this?"
+
+The Turk changed colour for a moment; but then, collecting himself,
+replied,—
+
+"The Effendi's horses are not like other horses, they eat more, and
+work more. We and he, too, we all like large chickens. The Effendi
+is rich, and he pays; he is big, and he eats a great deal. He is
+not giving more money for barley now than he gave when he was in
+Constantinople. The people at the Khans tell me the price, I give them
+what they ask. It would not do for me to be mean with my lord's gold.
+In future I shall know better. I will find out the proper value of
+everything, and will only pay what is just."
+
+I interrupted him.
+
+"Osman," I said, "you are a thief! However, as we leave Yuzgat to-day,
+there is no time for me to get another servant. Only, beware! for if
+I find you deceiving me any more, not all the hairs in the Prophet's
+beard shall save you from being discharged."
+
+"The Effendi knows what is best," said Osman coolly. "He has brain, and
+I—I am the dust in his sight. Another time we will not give so much for
+our barley, we will tighten our purse-strings to the chicken-sellers.
+We have all been deceived, we will be so no longer."
+
+We rode through an undulating country, in the direction of Sivas.
+The track was firm and good; there was an abundant supply of water
+throughout the district, numerous flocks and herds were grazing by the
+side of the path.
+
+After marching for six hours and a half, we halted at a Turkoman
+village, called Kulhurdook, which contained forty-five mud hovels. With
+much difficulty I obtained accommodation in a filthily dirty barn. Here
+our horses were also sheltered; side by side with them stood several
+cows and oxen. A small piece of carpet covered the ground in one corner
+of the building. The proprietor, bringing me a pillow, which once
+had been white, but was now black with dirt, placed it under my head,
+Radford and Osman lying down by the side of the horses.
+
+There were several mostaphas, or men belonging to the last army
+reserve, in this village. They eagerly inquired if there would be war,
+but did not express any wish to fight their country's battles. This
+struck me as the more remarkable, for elsewhere I had observed great
+martial ardour amongst the rural classes. I afterwards learnt that
+several men who had been enlisted from this village had been killed
+in Servia, hence the unwillingness of the mostaphas to go to what they
+considered certain death.
+
+I tried to sleep: this was impossible; some little insects, which
+the manager of the Crystal Palace advertises as "industrious," proved
+their industry by making fierce onslaughts on my body. Repeated groans
+from Osman made me aware that even his skin was not proof against
+the attack; whilst my English servant, who had given up all idea of
+sleeping, was walking about with a pipe in his mouth, and probably
+doing anything but bless his master who had brought him to such an
+out-of-the-way region.
+
+"Can you not sleep, Radford?" I inquired.
+
+"Sleep, sir! No! They are running up my legs like coach 'osses.
+Hosman's skin is like an ironclad, but they give him no peace; they
+worry awful, that they do. I have been trying to smoke them off me, but
+'bacca is nothing to these fleas. We shall be eaten alive if we stay
+here much longer—I know we shall!"
+
+Having come to much the same conclusion, I ordered him to saddle the
+horses, and, to the astonishment of the proprietor of the hovel, we
+left our quarters three hours before daybreak.
+
+Presently the country became more mountainous. It reminded me a good
+deal of the Saxon Switzerland, the scenery being very picturesque as
+our path wound round some wooded slopes.
+
+We were in a country abounding with pine forests. The telegraph-wire to
+Sivas was stretched not far from our track. Many saw-mills, turned by
+the mountain streams, showed where the telegraph-posts had been made;
+they had then been dragged by oxen to their destination.
+
+Our road ran through a pleasant valley, and by the side of a mountain
+stream known as the Gogderi Soo. In a few hours we arrived at a river,
+called the Tchekar Ermak. It is crossed by a weak stone bridge, the
+stream being about thirty yards wide by four deep. We halted for the
+night at the village of Tchirklik, a two days' march, or thirteen hours
+from Kulhurdook.
+
+I was accommodated in a house which actually possessed two rooms. They
+were not constructed in the side of a hill, as the other dwellings
+in the neighbourhood, but of wood—one room being reserved for the
+proprietor's cattle, sheep, and camels, the other for himself and
+harem.
+
+I was permitted to sleep in the stable. Osman, with Radford and our
+horses, were lodged in a hovel at the other end of the village.
+
+In the middle of the night I awoke with a feeling of suffocation, my
+throat was dry and parched, my eyes began to smart; a crackling noise
+overhead could be heard. It gradually dawned upon me that the house
+was on fire. I now discovered that the flames from the fireplace had
+ignited some boards in the chimney: they, in their turn, had set fire
+to the roof. If the proprietor, who was sleeping in the next room,
+were not immediately aroused, his house would in all probability be
+destroyed. The building was surrounded by a courtyard with high mud
+walls. The space outside the dwelling was infested by dogs. They at
+once came smelling around me.
+
+Shutting the door, to prevent the flames from bursting out inside, I
+went to the harem. The entrance was barred from within. The proprietor
+and his wives were fast asleep, they paid no attention to the noise
+which I made at the door.
+
+It is of no use standing upon any ceremony with a man when his house
+is being burnt down: drawing my revolver, I fired two shots in the
+air; thinking that the sound of the reports would arouse the sleeping
+inmates. The effect was instantaneous: the whole family awoke, the man,
+greatly alarmed, thinking that an attack was being made on the village
+by a tribe of Kurds; slowly drawing the bolt, he looked through a crack
+in the door.
+
+"Come!" I said, "your house is on fire! Be quick, or it will be burned
+down, and your camels and oxen be suffocated!"
+
+The proprietor bounded out of the room. He was followed by the harem;
+the ladies, in the confusion, did not think of covering their faces,
+and were very scantily attired. They ran to a well in the yard and
+brought some pitchers of water. The proprietor by this time had climbed
+to the roof of his house. It was a windy night. The gusts were a source
+of considerable inconvenience, to the water-bearers; their hands being
+occupied with the pitchers, they could not arrange their garments.
+The latter fluttered above the ladies' heads, to the great discomfort
+of the proprietor, who, much enraged at his house being on fire, was
+equally annoyed at his wives' legs being exposed to the view of an
+unbeliever.
+
+To relieve his mind, I clambered on to the roof. From this position the
+ladies' limbs could no longer be seen. After pouring several buckets of
+water on the charred rafters, we managed to extinguish the flames.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+     Sileh Zela—Its position—The old citadel—The soil in the
+     neighbourhood—A battalion of infantry—The Caimacan—The
+     audience-chamber—The Cadi—The battalion going to
+     Samsoun—The local authorities—The Colonel—England would
+     be neutral—What, desert her friend of the Crimea?—An ally
+     in Austria—Andrassy—An old Imaum—Propensity for fighting—A
+     Christian Bishop—The most bellicose members of society—Yakoob
+     Khan of Kashgar—The Russians and the Chinese—The Khivans,
+     Bokharians, and Turkomans—A rising of the Poles—The
+     ancient city—A secret passage—My tea and sugar—Osman has
+     a sweet tooth—My lord's liberality praised—Osman to kneel
+     on his own coat—Tartars—Lazy husbands—A plain planted
+     with tobacco—Mountains covered with vines—Many-coloured
+     sand-hills—A wonderful phenomenon—Bazar—Pacha
+     Williams—Teesdale—Kars—Is Pacha Williams still alive?
+
+
+It was a bright moonlight night. Not thinking it likely that we
+should obtain any more sleep, I determined to start at once, and take
+advantage of the weather. Desiring Radford and Osman, who had been
+aroused by the reports of my revolver, to saddle the horses, we set off
+in the direction of Sileh Zela, a town which contains 3000 houses, and
+a barracks which will hold at a pinch 1500 soldiers.
+
+Sileh Zela stands in the centre of a natural basin, the hills which
+form its sides being at a distance of six or seven miles from the town.
+A small rising ground near the principal street is occupied by the
+ruins of an old citadel. A stream runs through the heart of the city.
+The soil in the neighbourhood is very rich; corn abounds throughout the
+district. The inhabitants do not seem to have suffered from the famine
+which a few years ago so depopulated the Angora district.
+
+Half a battalion of infantry, about 400 strong, was drilling in a plain
+immediately in front of the town. The inhabitants had turned out,
+men and women, to witness the instruction of the troops. The white
+dresses of the ladies, contrasting with the blue uniforms, red caps,
+and the many-coloured dresses of the inhabitants, formed a bright and
+vivid picture. It was a glorious day. The sun poured down its rays
+with a force much more suggestive of July than January. The drill was
+just over as we neared the town. We rode into Sileh at the head of
+the regiment, the band, which consisted of about twenty musicians,
+performing a wild and discordant march. Halting at the house of the
+Caimacan, I dismounted and proceeded to pay him a visit. He was in the
+audience-chamber, surrounded by clerks, who were on their knees, and
+submitting different documents for his approval.
+
+The great man himself was squatted on a divan; the members of the
+town council were by his side. The Cadi, whose head was enveloped in a
+gigantic yellow turban, was engaged in smoking a long chibouk. A crowd
+of men were in the anteroom, some with petitions in their hands, others
+apparently prisoners, judging by the guards who stood beside them.
+
+It was evidently a busy day. The Caimacan, not taking any notice of my
+arrival, continued attaching his seal to the different papers.
+
+At last he stopped, and, turning to me, salaamed and apologized for
+his apparent rudeness. It appeared that the half battalion which I had
+seen drilling was to march the following morning for Constantinople,
+_viâ_ Samsoun. The Caimacan was engaged in making arrangements
+for its departure. Carriers would have to be sent forward to the
+different villages between Sileh Zela and Samsoun, to apprise the
+local authorities of the approaching arrival of the troops. The chief
+difficulty which the Caimacan experienced was the want of money, he
+presently observed, "_Asker tchok, lakin para yoke_," "We have plenty
+of soldiers, but no paras" (money).
+
+The colonel of the battalion now entered the room, and after having
+been introduced to me, observed that he had heard in the event of
+hostilities England would be neutral.
+
+"What! desert her old friend of the Crimea?" said the Caimacan, turning
+to me. And the Cadi, grinning in a ghastly manner at the rest of the
+company, remarked that England had many paras, and that perhaps she
+would send some of them to the Sultan.
+
+This created a revulsion of feeling in my favour—the assembly having
+been a little annoyed at the colonel's statement about the neutrality
+of Great Britain.
+
+"Well," I said, "you will probably have an ally in Austria."
+
+"An ally in Austria!" said the colonel; "no, certainly not. There are
+more Slavs than Magyars in the Emperor Francis Joseph's dominions.
+However, Andrassy, a Hungarian, is at the head of affairs, and by all
+accounts he rules the emperor. Perhaps Andrassy may prevent Austria
+from allying herself with Russia against us."
+
+"We shall have to fight our own battles this time," continued the
+colonel; "and, please God, we will win."
+
+An old Imaum, who was seated in a corner, now put in a word, and
+said that if there were a war, he too would go at the head of the
+Imaums. I had observed this same propensity for fighting amidst other
+Mohammedan priests. In fact in Asia as in Europe the most bellicose
+members of society are often those gentlemen whose profession is that
+of peace.[15]
+
+"We shall have Yakoob Khan of Kashgar with us," observed the Caimacan.
+
+"No we shall not," replied the colonel; "the Russians have stirred up a
+quarrel between Yakoob and the Chinese, so as to prevent him giving us
+any assistance."
+
+"Will any other Mohammedan states help you?" I inquired.
+
+"Yes, all of them will fight for Islam."
+
+"Russia is large," continued the officer, "but she will have to divide
+her forces. She will have to be on her guard against the Khivans,
+Bokharians, and Turkomans in Asia, she must also protect herself
+against a rising of the Poles in Europe."
+
+The Caimacan, now rising from the divan, walked with me to a
+small house in the neighbourhood which was reserved for the use of
+travellers.
+
+There were very few Armenians in Sileh, the population being made up
+almost entirely of the followers of the Prophet. The ancient city is
+nearly a mile from the present site, and tradition tells us that it
+was built upon the so-called mound of Semiramis. I found the castle in
+a very dilapidated state, the wall round it bore signs of having been
+constructed from the ruins of some very ancient edifice; here and there
+were heavy blocks of marble and other broken débris which had been let
+into the sides of the enclosure.
+
+According to the inhabitants, there is a secret passage leading from
+the citadel to a small square several hundred yards below the hill;
+this is very likely the case, for although now a third-rate town, Sileh
+was once a city of considerable military importance.
+
+Whilst I was looking at the antiquities, Osman had been engaged
+in buying some tea and sugar, the supply which I had brought from
+Constantinople being almost entirely exhausted, the tea and sugar
+having gone more rapidly than the other provisions. On my remarking
+this to Radford, I was informed that Osman had a sweet tooth, and had
+declared that tea was good for his stomach.
+
+I called the Turk to my side.
+
+"Osman," I said, "you have nearly finished my tea and sugar. What is
+the meaning of it?"
+
+"Effendi, I like tea, I like sugar; but what I like most of all is to
+hear my lord's liberality praised. Whenever I am drinking tea, and the
+village people see me putting much sugar in my glass, they honour me.
+In this manner they honour my lord."
+
+"I should like to be honoured in some other way for the future," I
+observed; "and Radford tells me that you are always praying instead of
+saddling the baggage-horses."
+
+"Quite true, sir," remarked Radford, who gathered from my gestures what
+the conversation was about. "Quite true; he has worn off the nap of
+my new great coat a-praying on it. He is always on his knees whenever
+there is some work to do."
+
+"Now for the future, Osman," I continued, "should I give orders to
+commence loading the animals at daybreak, you must get up two hours
+before sunrise: there will be then ample time for your devotions. In
+the meantime, when you pray, you are to kneel on your own jacket, and
+not on Radford's."
+
+"Is my brother angry?" said the Turk, pointing to his fellow-servant.
+
+"Yes."
+
+"Well, I will not offend him any more."
+
+And shaking hands with the Englishman, Osman manifested his friendship
+by borrowing a little tobacco.
+
+On leaving Sileh Zela we rode by numerous gardens, planted with all
+kinds of fruit-trees, and enclosed by high walls built for the most
+part of dried mud. The road then continued through a series of vast
+circular basins, each from six to seven miles in diameter, and similar
+to the one which surrounded the town. The walls of these basins were
+formed of many coloured sand-hills. The plains below were sowed with
+every kind of grain.
+
+We passed Tartars on their way to Sileh Zela, the women walking along
+the road, and the lazy husbands on horseback, riding in front of their
+wives.
+
+Turkoman and Circassian villages abound throughout this district. The
+inhabitants were eager to hear about the war. When the Russians drove
+the Circassians from the Caucasus, the Sultan gave the exiles land in
+Anatolia. The wild mountaineers thirst for the opportunity of revenging
+themselves upon the Muscovites.
+
+We left the corn-growing country behind us, and emerged upon a plain
+thickly planted with tobacco. On one side of the track, the mountains
+were covered with vines, on the other were many-coloured sand-hills.
+
+Presently a wonderful phenomenon presented itself to us. A thick, black
+cloud, which all the morning had hung above a mountain-top, burst over
+our heads, and then being gradually wafted onward, it poured down its
+waters on the sand-hills. The sun, which was shining brightly, formed a
+magnificent rainbow—the glorious orb joined earth to sky, its matchless
+colouring lit up the whole of the firmament.
+
+The waters dashed down the sides of the hills. The torrent bore with
+it a million particles of coloured sand. In a moment the rivulets at
+our feet ran white, red, and then crimson. The thunder roared in the
+distance. A flash of lightning streaked the horizon with gold.
+
+The sun was setting ere we reached our halting-place, and as we rode up
+the main street of the village of Bazar, our horses had to wade through
+about three feet of water—the result of the recent storm. I obtained
+quarters for the night in a small, but clean wooden house belonging to
+a Turkish gentleman. He was formerly an officer in the army, and had
+been employed at Kars during the siege.
+
+"Pacha Williams proved himself to be a great man," observed my host.
+"He was always busy, and not like other Pachas, who spend their lives
+in the harem. He went out at all hours of the night to inspect the
+fortifications. There was another Englishman with him—a young man of
+fair complexion, but with a heart like a lion."
+
+"Teesdale?" I observed.
+
+"Yes, that was his name. The hearts of our poor Osmanlis were cheered
+when they saw this young Englishman sharing all their privations, never
+grumbling, and always cheerful. If the war breaks out again, God grant
+that you may send us many more such officers! Is Pacha Williams still
+alive?"
+
+"Yes."
+
+"Is he a very great man in your country?"
+
+"Yes."
+
+"You English are a wonderful nation," continued my host. "You reward
+the Pachas who are brave and skilful. In our country if a captain has a
+relation in the harem of the grand vizier, the officer is sure to rise
+to high command; but with you a man must have merit to succeed."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+     Tokat—The Caimacan of the town—The battalion is to
+     march to Samsoun—A naturalized Englishman—The road
+     from Tokat to Sivas—The population of Tokat—The rich
+     inhabitants bribe the gendarmes—The want of funds—The
+     officials' salaries in arrears—Armenian schools in
+     Tokat—The Greeks; not much reliance to be placed upon
+     them—Khiva—Tashkent—Samarcand—Mussulmans in India—The
+     Black Sea and the Russian fleet—Old soldiers in Tokat—The
+     Armenians and Greeks to be supplied with fire-arms—Good
+     governors—Osman Bey—A Circassian on Russian atrocities—A
+     statement by the Russian authorities—Seven hundred families
+     near Labinsky—Men, women, and children at the breast
+     butchered—English sympathizers with Russia—The Russians sow
+     the seeds of dissension amongst the Circassians—Yonn Bek—Many
+     gold imperials offered to him.
+
+
+It is only a few hours' march from Bazar to Tokat, the track running
+parallel to the river of the same name. There are many villages by the
+side of the stream. The valley widens, and then narrows again as we
+proceed towards the town. Tokat at last lies before us. It is a long,
+straggling city, and on the left bank of the river.
+
+We were met by a Zaptieh. He conducted me to a house set apart for
+travellers. Shortly afterwards I received a visit from the Caimacan
+(governor). This official was an active, bustling little man, and much
+more energetic than any of the governors I had previously met.
+
+An order had arrived for him to send 1000 men immediately to Samsoun.
+The battalion would march the following morning at daybreak. He
+proposed that I should go and see the start.
+
+An engineer now called, a Pole by birth, but a naturalized Englishman.
+He was engaged in making a road from Tokat to Sivas; he had been in
+Tokat five years, and the work was not half completed. Indeed, judging
+by the system adopted for the construction of public works in Anatolia,
+it will be a wonder if the road is ever finished.
+
+According to the engineer, Tokat has a population of 25,000
+inhabitants. Of these there are 8000 men who should each work four days
+a year at the construction of the road.
+
+"It is a pitiable sight," continued the Pole. "The Zaptiehs are ordered
+to bring the people. A rich inhabitant bribes the gendarmes; they leave
+him and seize some impecunious individual. The latter is brought to me,
+and I tell the fellow to commence digging. The man digs so long as I am
+in sight, but the moment my back is turned, down goes the shovel, and
+he lights a cigarette. The result is that I have been here five years,
+and only five miles of road are finished."
+
+The engineer complained of the want of funds in the public chest.
+His pay was only 10_l._ per month, and it was never paid punctually.
+Meantime, the authorities had discharged several engineers in their
+employ, on the ground that every piastre in the treasury was required
+for the maintenance of the troops.
+
+There were several Armenian schools in Tokat, and the Turks and
+Christians got on very well together. However, the Caimacan was of
+opinion that not much reliance could be placed upon the Greeks, i. e.
+in the event of a war between Turkey and Russia.
+
+"They are very cunning," remarked the governor. "They will not declare
+themselves at once, but will wait a little, and hang back to see which
+side is the strongest. They still dream of the old Greek Empire, and
+think that some day Constantinople will be a Greek capital. This is not
+very likely to happen," he continued. "If Russia were to conquer us,
+and to take Constantinople, she would not be willing to hand it over to
+the Greeks. What Russia takes she keeps. Look at the Caucasus. Look at
+the Crimea. Look at Khiva, Tashkent, and Samarcand. Some day she will
+try and conquer India, and what shall you do then?"
+
+"Probably take our Indian troops, and, joining with the Afghans, and
+inhabitants of Kashgar, drive Russia out of Central Asia," I remarked.
+
+"That is easier said than done," said the governor. "But, talking of
+the natives of India, is it true, as I have read in our newspapers,
+that many Mussulmans in India have petitioned your Queen to help the
+Sultan?"
+
+"Yes," I replied, "I believe so."
+
+"Then why does she not oblige them? Your interests are bound up with
+our interests. We do not wish to lose Constantinople. It would be
+our death-blow. It would be your death-blow if the Black Sea belonged
+solely to Russia, for her ships could remain there in perfect safety,
+and, running out at any moment, might attack your commerce in the
+Mediterranean."
+
+"There are a great many old soldiers in Tokat," observed the engineer,
+"men who fought in the Crimea. They have asked me if there is any
+chance of England joining Turkey, and are longing to serve, with
+English pay and English rations."
+
+"The men who leave to-morrow go without any pay," said the Caimacan,
+"but they march cheerfully. We shall have to fight it out to the end,"
+he continued; "if Russia does not destroy Turkey, Turkey must destroy
+Russia! I will sell my watch and everything I have in the world to
+raise funds for the war. We must all do the same."
+
+Whilst we were conversing an order arrived for the Caimacan to supply
+all the Armenians and Greeks in Tokat with firearms, and have them
+instructed in drill.
+
+"I must go," he observed, and, rising from the divan, he left me alone
+with the engineer.
+
+"He is a most energetic man," said the Pole, pointing to the retreating
+figure of the Caimacan. "If Turkey had more governors like him, she
+would not be reduced to her present straits. The great mistake in
+this country is the continual change of Caimacans. When we have a
+good governor, we never keep him for more than six months; the present
+man has been here about that time, he does not rob the people, and is
+thoroughly honest: we shall probably soon lose him."
+
+Several of the principal persons in the town now came to call upon me;
+amongst others, a certain Osman Bey, a Circassian, and the chief of a
+large band which had emigrated from the Caucasus a few years previous.
+He was dressed in the Circassian style, with a sheep-skin coat, tightly
+buckled round his waist, embroidered leather trousers and high boots; a
+black Astrakhan cap surmounted his bronzed features. He was a fine tall
+fellow, and immensely popular with the inhabitants of Tokat.
+
+After conversing for a little while about my journey, and the state
+of the roads between Tokat and Erzeroum, he proposed that I should
+accompany him to his house, drink tea there, and be introduced to his
+relatives. The engineer came with us. After walking through some lanes,
+where the mud reached considerably above my ankles, we arrived before
+a square-built, whitewashed house. A solid wooden door, absolutely
+possessing a knocker—an article of luxury not known in Tokat, save to
+the richer inhabitants, gave admission to a small courtyard. This, in
+its turn, led to the apartments reserved for Osman Bey and the members
+of his family.
+
+He had sent a servant on before, to say that he was on his way. About
+fifteen Circassian gentlemen were seated around the room.
+
+"We Circassians have heard a great deal of your nation," said Osman
+Bey, as he motioned to me to take a seat. "We once thought that England
+was going to help us to drive the Russians out of our country. However,
+you did not come; they outnumbered us, and they had artillery opposed
+to our flint guns. What could we do? We resisted as long as possible,
+and then, sooner than be slaves, came here."
+
+"If there is a war, shall you all go to the front?" I inquired.
+
+"Yes, every able-bodied man amongst us. We do not pay any taxes to the
+Sultan; he gave us our land, and we owe him a debt of gratitude. Not
+only that," continued the speaker, and at the same time drawing a long,
+keen knife from his sash, and flipping his nail against the blade, "but
+we shall have an opportunity of cutting a few Muscovite throats!"
+
+"I hope you will not kill the women and children!" I observed. "Nobody
+cares about the men; but in Europe we have a horror of people who
+massacre women and children."
+
+"We shall do as the Russians do, and as they have always done,"
+observed my host grimly. "They have killed our old men, have cut to
+pieces pregnant women, and have tossed the children on the bayonets,
+whilst the soldiers have satisfied their lust upon our wives, and
+burnt them to death afterwards![16] Well, if they do the same thing
+now, we shall follow the example set us, and shall continue doing so,
+until England or some other power interferes to save our countrymen
+from the devilish tyranny of these Muscovite butchers. Let me give you
+one instance of their cruelty. A few years ago the Russian authorities
+informed the Circassians that whoever wished might leave the Imperial
+dominions and go elsewhere. This was probably done to discover what
+natives were well disposed or otherwise to the Russian rule. There
+was no real intention on the part of the Government to allow any of
+its subjects to pass the frontier. Seven hundred families belonging to
+some villages near the town of Labinsky, thought that it was a _bonâ
+fide_ permission. Leaving their district, they started for the Turkish
+frontier. A short time afterwards they were surrounded by Russian
+troops, cavalry and artillery, and ordered to return. The fugitives
+said that they had permission to leave Russia. The officer in command
+insisted that they should at once retrace their steps. The command was
+not immediately obeyed, the troops fired at the villagers, and then
+charged them with the bayonet; only thirteen Mohammedans survived to
+tell the tale. All the rest, men, women, and children at the breast,
+were cut to pieces."
+
+"Are these assertions really true?" I said to another Circassian.
+
+"We know it, to our cost," he replied. "This is only one instance which
+Osman Bey has just given you, and which you have written down in your
+note-book; but there are many more equally horrible. The Russians have
+made a hell of our beautiful country. They are worse than the fiend
+himself."
+
+"Do your country-people like the Russians?" said Osman Bey.
+
+"Some do," I replied; "but they do not believe in these horrible
+cruelties which you have been just relating to me."
+
+"Well, then, tell them to travel through our country—that is, if the
+Russians will let them—to go to our villages and talk to the country
+people; but not in the presence of Russians, as the poor sufferers
+would be afraid to speak, knowing well the fate which would await them
+when their questioners had departed. Let any of the people of England,
+who now sympathize with Russia, do this, and then let them form an
+opinion about the merits of the case."
+
+"When you return to your own country will you publish what I have said
+to you?" said Osman Bey.
+
+"Yes," I said, "every line. Listen to what I have written, so that
+there may be no error."
+
+And I translated to him my notes, the engineer aiding me in the task.
+
+"Are all your countrymen of one mind in their hatred of the Russians?"
+I inquired.
+
+"Unfortunately, no," said Osman Bey. "The authorities have been clever
+enough to sow the seeds of dissension amongst our ranks. For example,
+they will often give the post of 'stanishna' (a local authority) in
+the different villages to a Circassian of a low degree. This gives him
+authority over our nobles. Ill-feeling is thus created between the two
+classes; it is utilized by the Russians."
+
+"One of our number is doing his best to avenge himself on the
+Muscovites," said another of the party, a good-looking young fellow,
+apparently about twenty years old, and Osman Bey's nephew. "His name
+is Yonn Bek; he has taken up his abode in the Farsa Shaguash mountain
+near Ekaterinograd, and kills the Russians whenever he can meet them.
+He has been pursued; but he has depôts in the mountain where he keeps
+provisions, and the Russians have never been able to trace him to his
+lair. The authorities have offered Yonn Bek a great many gold imperials
+if he would leave the country, as the man has done so much mischief
+there; but Yonn declines, and says that if the Russians have not been
+able to capture him in eight years, and he has been able to do them so
+much damage, what will not happen to the foe when the war breaks out
+and he is joined by other men like himself?"
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+     The servant of the house—The Onbashee—Five piastres—Osman
+     detected—The guilty man—Vankovitch's remarks—The sentence—May
+     I put Osman in prison?—The barracks—Two old Khans—The women
+     weeping—Immense enthusiasm—Numbers of volunteers—Parading
+     for the march—Men crying—We shall eat the Russians—The
+     Sergeant—The Major of the battalion—The Dervish—A
+     Circassian—The Imaum of the regiment—The Muleteer—Baggage
+     animals required for the regiment—A bitter cry—The women's
+     wail—The old Major—The soldier's hymn—The standard of the
+     battalion—Go in safety—God be with you!
+
+
+The following morning the servant of the house in which I was lodging
+entered the room and observed that a Zaptieh corporal, or Onbashee, who
+had escorted us into the town on the day of my arrival, wished to see
+me.
+
+"Tell him to come in," I said. In a few minutes the Onbashee opened
+the door; approaching me, he took from his waistcoat five piastres, and
+placed them in the palm of his hand.
+
+"What is this for?" I inquired.
+
+"Osman!" answered the Onbashee, with a sigh.
+
+"Osman! What has he been doing?"
+
+"Osman gave them to me, Effendi; but you said that he was to give me
+half a medjidi—he has kept the difference for himself!"
+
+It now flashed across my mind that the previous evening I had desired
+Osman to give the corporal half a medjidi as a baksheesh, and that I
+had told him to do so in the presence of the servant of the house. The
+latter had informed the Onbashee. Osman, who wished to appropriate to
+himself the difference between five piastres and the larger coin, was
+thus detected.
+
+I sent for the culprit. He was aware that his knavery had been
+discovered. Instead of coming to me with his usual assertion that he
+was the most industrious man in the world, he stood in the corner of
+the room, an object of derision to the Onbashee, who was regretting the
+loss of his half medjidi, and to the servant of the house, who had been
+the means of disclosing Osman's dishonesty.
+
+Addressing the guilty man, I asked him why he had not given the Zaptieh
+the half medjidi, and added that the previous evening, when he had told
+me of the expenses of the day, he had charged me with that sum.
+
+Osman had hardly anything to say for himself. Presently he stammered
+out something about his only having five piastres in his pocket.
+
+"That is a lie, Effendi!" here interrupted the Onbashee. "He had many
+coins in his hand when he gave me the five piastres."
+
+I at once made up my mind to get rid of Osman. Vankovitch's remarks
+about the Turk's dishonesty also recurred to my memory. Osman was
+undoubtedly a rogue; I determined to procure another servant.
+
+"Osman," I said, "you have robbed a Mohammedan, a follower of Islam,
+and one of your own religion. If you had confined yourself to robbing
+me, I could have understood it, for you might have reasoned to yourself
+as follows: 'The Effendi is a giaour, and there is gold in his purse.'
+But to rob a brother Mohammedan, and a poor man; to rob him of the
+pittance which I had given him,—this I can only understand by the
+assumption that you are a greater scoundrel than I thought you were!
+You are no longer my servant. You darken the threshold no longer!"
+
+"I am innocent, Effendi!" cried Osman.
+
+"Well, prove your innocence, and I will say no more about the matter."
+
+"Effendi, the Onbashee is a liar!"
+
+"Very likely, but then the servant must be a liar as well, and he saw
+you give the five piastres to the corporal. Now what interest has the
+servant in telling a lie about the matter?"
+
+This was too much for the delinquent; lowering his eyes, he walked
+out of the room, through a long row of servants, who had come from the
+neighbouring houses to hear me administer justice.
+
+The sentence appeared to give great satisfaction to the Onbashee.
+
+"May I put Osman in prison?" he eagerly inquired.
+
+"I have no authority on such matters," I replied.
+
+"No, Effendi, but the Caimacan likes you, and if you asked him to do
+so, he would put Osman in prison. Just a day or so, Effendi! Please
+do!"
+
+"Why do you want to put him in gaol?" I asked.
+
+"Because, if he is once shut up, we will not let him out till he has
+returned me the difference between your present and the five piastres."
+
+"No," I said; "here is the difference," at the same time giving him a
+small sum of money. "But now go and inquire in the town for a man who
+wants a situation, as I want a servant immediately."
+
+Just then a sergeant entered the room. He brought word from the
+Caimacan that he was waiting for me, and that the battalion would leave
+Tokat in about half an hour.
+
+I at once rode to the barracks. They consisted of two old Khans, which
+surrounded a courtyard, the Khans being used as barracks when there
+were troops in Tokat, and at other times of the year as lodgings
+for wayfarers. The streets leading to the Khans were lined with
+women, muffled up in long white sheets, and weeping piteously. The
+battalion was drawn up in two ranks inside the courtyard. The men were
+standing at ease, and engaged in talking to their numerous friends and
+relatives. Immense enthusiasm prevailed amidst the bystanders. Numbers
+of volunteers were offering their services.
+
+"Look at these men, sir," observed Radford, who was riding behind me;
+"they do not look as if they liked going as soldiers: bless my heart
+alive, if they ain't a-crying!"
+
+I glanced in the direction he was pointing, and saw thirty or forty men
+with most woe-begone faces, and some of them in tears.
+
+"Why are you crying?" I said to one of their party. "Are you afraid of
+being killed?"
+
+"No, Effendi, we want to go with our brothers in the battalion and to
+fight by their side; but the major will not take us, he says that his
+battalion is complete. Do ask him to let us accompany him! Our hearts
+are full of sorrow at being left behind."
+
+A captain in the regiment, a short, podgy-looking man, with very fat
+cheeks, now came to them, and tried to console the volunteers by saying
+that their turn would come soon, and that they should go with the next
+battalion.
+
+It was a curious spectacle: the soldiers dressed in a neat dark
+blue serge uniform, and with their feet in sandals, surrounded by
+little knots of relatives clad in every kind of attire that can well
+be imagined; fathers embracing sons, brothers rubbing cheeks with
+brothers, and the sergeant and corporals vainly endeavouring to get
+their men into some sort of order; the fat captain in the background
+engaged in trying to console the rejected volunteers; and the younger
+portion of the crowd looking inquisitively at the new Martini-Peabody
+rifles which had only arrived from Samsoun the previous evening. Some
+of the soldiery were showing how quick their rifles could be loaded and
+fired. The rapidity of the system created great astonishment amidst the
+crowd.
+
+"The giaours come from the country where these guns are made," said a
+bystander, pointing to Radford and myself.
+
+"The giaours have more brain than we have," said another.
+
+"If they help us, we shall eat the Russians!" exclaimed a third. We
+became the object of still more curiosity when a sergeant, coming to
+me, said that the Caimacan was in the major's room, drinking coffee,
+and hoped that I would join him there.
+
+"He is going to drink coffee with the Governor—he is a great man!" said
+one of the bystanders. Some of the volunteers, rushing up, entreated me
+to intercede with the Caimacan, and perhaps he could induce the major
+of the battalion to take them with him to the war.
+
+The major, and several other officers were squatted on a carpet in a
+small and rather dirty room overlooking the courtyard. The Caimacan was
+seated on a chair, a dervish sat by his side. The latter individual was
+a portly-looking man, wrapped up in a roll of brown cloth, and with a
+gigantic sugar-loaf hat on his head. The hat was made of grey cloth,
+and would have made the fortune of the leader of a nigger band. Several
+more officers now came into the room, amongst others the fat captain.
+They each in turn bent before the dervish, who placed his hands above
+their heads, and pronounced some sort of a blessing.
+
+A Circassian entered the building. He presently informed us that five
+thousand of his nation, who resided in the neighbourhood of Tokat, had
+expressed a wish to go to the seat of war, and to bring with them their
+own horses and arms.
+
+By this time the sergeants had succeeded in arranging their men in
+the ranks, and the major going downstairs, followed by the Imaum or
+chaplain of the regiment, the latter addressed the battalion. The Imaum
+was attired in a lieutenant's uniform, but with a green turban round
+the fez, as a distinctive mark of his profession.
+
+The Chaplain's discourse was not a long one. It was listened to with
+great attention by the populace. When he had finished the ranks were
+again broken by a crowd of eager, excited Mussulmans, who rushed up to
+embrace their friends.
+
+As I was descending the steps, my attention was called to a man who
+was seated on the stair. He was sobbing like a child; at the same time
+striking his chest with the palms of his hands.
+
+"What is the matter?" I inquired.
+
+On his looking up, I recognized the muleteer whom I had hired to bring
+my baggage from Sileh Zela to Tokat. The man on seeing me sprang to his
+feet, then throwing himself on the ground, he began to embrace my legs,
+at the same time kissing my boots.
+
+It appeared that several baggage animals were required for the
+battalion which was about to march. The Zaptiehs of Tokat had pressed
+the muleteer into their service, and had taken his mules.
+
+"Do speak for me, Effendi!" he said. "They will take me to Kars. I
+shall be a ruined man. And my wife expects me home—she is in a delicate
+state of health; I shall shortly be a father."
+
+"It is useless," said the Caimacan, who overheard his prayers. "We must
+have baggage animals," he continued; "you will not be taken to Kars,
+only to Samsoun; you will be paid for the hire of your animals. Dry
+your eyes, and do not block up the steps."
+
+"It is a great pity, and I am very sorry for these poor fellows,"
+observed the Caimacan, turning to me; "but what can we do? It is war
+time, or very soon will be so: some of us must suffer."
+
+"Listen to those poor women there," he continued, as we rode through
+the gate, preceded by the brass band of the regiment playing a
+melancholy march. A deep wail could be heard even above the noise of
+the instruments. The wives, mothers, and other female relatives of the
+soldiers, had not been permitted to enter the barracks; but from an
+early hour they had taken up a position along the streets. The bitter
+cry, which was joined in by hundreds of voices, announced to the people
+in the very outskirts of the town that the battalion was on the march.
+
+Presently the band ceased playing; and the old major, his long white
+beard streaming in the wind, began singing the words: "God is great.
+There is but one God, the God, and there is but one Prophet, the
+Prophet, and he is the Prophet of God."
+
+The soldiers took up the strain, ten thousand bystanders joined in
+the verse—it even silenced the women's wail—and resounded along the
+banks of the river. Here taken up by some people on the ruined citadel,
+the words were re-echoed back to us; there wafted by the breeze to an
+adjacent hamlet, the peasantry swelled the chorus. The standard of the
+battalion, with the crescent embroidered on a green border, was raised
+high in the air, and several of the crowd, rushing up to the major,
+implored him to take them in his ranks.
+
+It was a striking scene—these weeping women in their shroud-like
+dresses; the many-coloured garments of the men; the excited
+soldiery—the still more excited major; and the immense religious
+enthusiasm.
+
+Snow-capped mountains barred the way before us, and the river, its
+banks set fast with ice and hoar-frost, glittered in the distance, and
+reflected the rays of a midday sun.
+
+Large stacks of wood had been piled up near the stream. The timber had
+been cut in the forests above the town, and been floated down the river
+to Tokat. It is chiefly used for smelting copper, the Government having
+some smelting works in the neighbourhood. According to my informant,
+they were established thirty years ago by a German; after his decease
+they had been bought by the Turkish authorities.
+
+The Caimacan thought that he had accompanied the battalion far
+enough. Drawing a little on one side, we let the soldiers pass us. The
+standard-bearer waved his flag, the old major saluted by lowering the
+point of his sword as he rode past, and with the words, "Go in safety,
+God be with you. We shall meet in Erzeroum," we parted.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+     Osman Bey—A Circassian feud—Will there be a rising in
+     the Caucasus?—If England were to help us—A wonderful
+     servant—Mohammed—His Captain—An Armenian doctor—Business
+     is flat—The Christian population to be armed—Visitors
+     asking favours—Your reward will be in heaven—A
+     subscription—Promotion through favouritism—A sad story—A
+     cruel father—A servant arrested for debt—Failure of justice.
+
+
+Soon afterwards I met Osman Bey, my acquaintance of the previous
+day. He was on the point of leaving for a Circassian hamlet in the
+neighbourhood. It appeared that a feud had arisen between the people of
+this village and another one in its vicinity; the Bey was going there
+to calm, if possible, the angry feelings of the inhabitants.
+
+He remarked that in the event of war breaking out between Turkey and
+Russia he should go to the Caucasus.
+
+"Will there be a great rising in that country?" I inquired.
+
+"It is very doubtful," was the answer; "our people have risen several
+times;[17] no foreign power has assisted us, and the result is that we
+have been decimated by our enemy. My countrymen are afraid of doing
+anything, unless they feel certain that they will be aided in their
+attempt. If England were to help us," he continued, "and could only
+capture one Russian port on the Black Sea, the Circassians would have
+confidence, and there would be a rising throughout the length and
+breadth of our land."
+
+On returning to my house I found the Zaptieh who had been defrauded by
+my late servant. He was awaiting me with a candidate for Osman's place.
+
+"Effendi, I have brought you a wonderful fellow," said the gendarme;
+"if you send him with a message, he will fly; he will guard your purse
+more carefully than his own."
+
+It appeared that the wonderful man's name was Mohammed; he was a redif
+soldier. His battalion would march in the course of a week or so to
+Erzeroum. To avoid going with the troops he proposed that he should
+engage himself as my servant until we reached that town, and then he
+could join his battalion.
+
+"But will your commanding officer give you leave to accompany me?" I
+inquired.
+
+"If the Effendi asks him," interrupted the Zaptieh.
+
+Mohammed was apparently not above twenty-five years of age. He had a
+pleasant, frank expression, and I determined to engage him, that is, if
+I could obtain the sanction of his captain.
+
+I now went to see this officer. He at once agreed to the proposal; that
+is, if I would pledge myself to give up Mohammed at Erzeroum.
+
+"How can I pledge myself?" I remarked, "he may run away on the road."
+
+"That is true," said the officer; "but he is a straightforward
+fellow—he will not do so. If I had the power, I would let you take him
+as a servant for all the time that you remain in the country; but I
+have no authority to do this, I am merely a captain."
+
+The matter was settled. Returning to my house, I informed the man of
+his officer's consent.
+
+Mohammed was to have the same wages as Osman, and as he had a horse
+of his own, which he wished to take to Erzeroum, I was to pay for the
+forage of the animal, and could make use of him for the baggage. This
+would be very useful; hitherto I had been obliged to hire a horse,
+owing to my loss of Obadiah. Up to this time I had been travelling on
+the postal track. It was possible to find horses. After leaving Sivas,
+the next town I should reach, there would be no more postal-stations;
+I should then have to trust to my being able to hire animals from the
+peasantry, or be obliged to purchase another horse.
+
+"I have a wife," said Mohammed; "will my lord give me a little money?"
+
+"How much do you want?"
+
+"Two liras."
+
+"I wonder if he will bolt with the money, like the Tartar I engaged
+last winter in Orenburg." This idea at once occurred to my mind. On
+second thoughts, I remembered that he was well known to the Zaptieh,
+and to many of the other inhabitants of Tokat; so I acceded to his
+request.
+
+An Armenian doctor called to see me. He had been educated in the
+States, and spoke English with a most unmistakable Yankee drawl.
+
+"How is business here?" I inquired.
+
+"Very flat," said the medical gentleman; "the people do not put much
+faith in doctors, that is, until they are really ill, and then we have
+a busy time of it. They pill themselves," he continued, "and go in for
+herbs and old women's remedies; they get them cheap, and grudge the
+money which they must pay to a regular practitioner."
+
+"You do not look very well," said the doctor.
+
+"Thank you, there is not much the matter," I replied. The fact was
+that I had a splitting headache, owing to the charcoal pan or mungo
+which warmed the apartment. The gas from the charcoal being lighter
+than the air, fills the upper part of the room. The Turks and Armenians
+generally squat on the floor. They do not feel the effects of the fumes
+so much as a person who is seated on the divan.
+
+Another Armenian now paid me a visit. He was the telegraph
+inspector in Tokat, and he informed us that orders had just been
+sent from Constantinople to buy up all the available horses in this
+neighbourhood.
+
+"Things look warlike," he continued, "and the doctor," pointing to
+his compatriot, "will have plenty of practice before long. The whole
+Christian population is to be armed. It is clear that the Government
+has not much faith in the Conference, and is doing its best to prepare
+for war."
+
+The Armenians in Tokat complained of the slack way in which justice was
+administered throughout that district. According to the doctor, if a
+man committed a crime, and could get away for a year or two and then
+return to his home, he would not be pursued by the authorities; that
+is, unless the aggrieved parties made a formal complaint.
+
+"Yes," said another visitor, "three months ago fifty-four malefactors
+escaped from the prison. Forty of them shortly afterwards surrendered;
+the rest made their way to the mountains. Their ringleader, who is a
+murderer, has been recently seen in Tokat: no one has cared to arrest
+him."
+
+Four young Turks entered the room; the eldest could not have been more
+than three-and-twenty.
+
+"What do you want?" I inquired.
+
+"We do not wish to go to the war," replied one of them, who took upon
+himself to be spokesman for the party.
+
+"Why not?"
+
+"Because we are married men and have children."
+
+"I cannot help you."
+
+"Yes, Effendi, you can; you might speak to the Caimacan, and he could
+free us from military service."
+
+"His duty is to send you to the front," observed the doctor.
+
+"Yes, but he evidently likes the Frank, for we saw them riding
+together, and if the Effendi would only ask him, he could not be so
+inhospitable as to decline."
+
+I was a little annoyed at this remark, and observed,—
+
+"I certainly shall not ask for anything of the kind. Other people who
+have wives and children are obliged to go, then why not you?"
+
+"But they did not love their wives so much as we love ours," persisted
+the man.
+
+The Caimacan now called. Upon his arrival the four visitors, after
+grovelling almost in the dust before him, took their departure.
+
+"What did they want?" said the Governor.
+
+I told him.
+
+"It is very unpatriotic of them," he observed. "The cunning little
+dogs, to ask you to intercede on their behalf! But they shall all go
+with the next battalion!"
+
+I was evidently destined to have a succession of visitors on that
+afternoon, for no sooner had the Caimacan gone than another official
+arrived. He at once commenced a conversation by saying that he had been
+employed in collecting the redif soldiery from the different villages
+in the neighbourhood, and had also started a subscription amongst the
+wealthier inhabitants to provide the men with warm shirts.
+
+"You have acted very kindly, and doubtless with the best motives," I
+remarked. "Your reward will be in heaven."
+
+"Yes," said the man, who did not seem quite to relish the idea of his
+reward being so indefinitely postponed; "but the Effendi is going to
+Sivas?"
+
+"Yes."
+
+"He will see the Pacha there."
+
+"Very likely."
+
+"Then will he tell the Pacha of my great merits, and ask him to give me
+some higher employment?"
+
+"If it pleases Allah, you will receive some higher post," I piously
+observed. "Our destinies are in his hand."
+
+"Yes," said the man, "so they are. But for all that, I wish that you
+would speak to the Pacha for me."
+
+From the two examples I have here cited, it will readily be seen that
+a system of promotion through favouritism is very deeply rooted amidst
+the Turks. I had been seen riding with the Caimacan. It was thought
+that I might see the Pacha at Sivas—this was quite sufficient to induce
+some of the inhabitants of Tokat to believe that any request I might
+make to the Pacha or Caimacan would necessarily be granted.
+
+"It was fortunate," here remarked the engineer, "that you told Osman to
+give the baksheesh to a Corporal, and that a Turkish servant heard you
+give the order. If the fellow had been a Christian, the servant would
+never have taken the trouble to mention it to him. But the fact of the
+Corporal being a co-religionist was too much for the servant. It has
+enabled you to detect the fraud."
+
+"This is one of the worst features of the country," he continued.
+"The Turks will not do anything to aid a Christian at the expense of
+a Mohammedan, even if the Mohammedan is most clearly in the wrong.
+And it is much the same with the Christians in respect to their
+co-religionists. The result is that the Armenians and Turks do not pull
+well together. The law, too, is faulty, and requires amendment."
+
+"Let me give you an example," continued Mr. Gasparini, "and one which
+has come immediately under my notice, for it affected my own servant.
+It sounds like a romance, but, alas! is too true! My servant's name
+is Karatel Mermenk Ovooloo. He is an Armenian; his mother died when
+he was a child; his father remarried, but behaved very badly to his
+second wife, continually ill-treating her, and making his son bring
+another woman to the house. The lad was very fond of his stepmother,
+who was at that time seriously ill; at last he refused to bring his
+father's paramour to their home. The father beat him severely and
+apprenticed the lad to his own trade, that of a coppersmith. The mother
+soon afterwards died, with an anathema on her lips at her husband's
+paramour. The latter, strange to say, died herself three weeks
+afterwards. In the meantime, the father gave the boy three piastres a
+week for his clothes. The lad could not clothe himself for that sum, he
+left his home and went into service. The parent succeeded in having the
+boy turned away from several situations, but at last I took him. Now,
+only the other day, the father went to the Cadi, and swore that his
+son was in a coppersmith's business with himself, and in consequence
+must pay half the tax on his trade. There is no truth whatever in
+the statement, but the father's word has been taken, and my servant
+arrested, and kept in prison for three days. The sum is only twenty-six
+piastres, I would gladly pay it myself, but I have no money; the
+government will not give me my salary; so here we are at a dead-lock."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV.
+
+     Mohammed's horse—The Effendi's barley—The road from Tokat
+     to Sivas—A very pretty girl—Tchiflik—Complaints made
+     against the Circassians—Highly cultivated soil—The Tchamlay
+     Bel mountain—A Turk killed—A wonderful gun—Yenihan—The
+     Yeldez Ermak—The Kizil Ermak—Sivas—A ruined citadel—The
+     importance of Sivas from a military point of view—My entry
+     into Sivas—The guard—An Italian engineer—Three American
+     missionaries—A house pillaged.
+
+
+The following morning, Mohammed arrived at an early hour, bringing with
+him his horse, a wretched brute to look at; he had not a particle of
+flesh on his bones, and was half blind with one eye.
+
+"This is my horse, Effendi," said Mohammed proudly; "is he not a
+magnificent animal? My having this horse will save the Effendi the
+expense of hiring or buying another one."
+
+"I hope that I shall get a baksheesh at Erzeroum," he added.
+
+"Of course," I said; "that is, if the brute reaches Erzeroum. But it
+strikes me that you have not been giving him anything to eat lately!"
+
+"No, Effendi, I was afraid that if he looked too well he would have
+been taken for the use of the troops; but no one will even glance at
+him as he is. He has a wonderful appetite, and will make up for lost
+time; no one will recognize him, after he has eaten the Effendi's
+barley for a day or two; he will soon be fat and strong."
+
+The road from Tokat to Sivas is a good one for the first few hours. My
+friend the engineer's work had been very fairly done; our horses were
+able to get over the ground at from five to six miles an hour. The
+track led through a succession of hills and valleys. In some places the
+engineer had been obliged to cut the road for several hundred yards in
+the solid rock.
+
+Presently we passed a small Circassian village. Several good-looking
+women, coming to the road-side, offered chickens and geese for sale.
+One of the Circassians was a very pretty girl, and would have carried
+off the palm amidst many European belles. Her face was not veiled.
+There was a great deal of expression in her large, dark eyes. They
+flashed excitedly as she sought to induce me to buy her wares.
+
+"I am tired of chicken," I said; "I should like a little meat."
+
+"There is no meat here," replied the girl. "We ourselves live upon
+bread and eggs: buy some eggs."
+
+And running back to a house, she brought out about fifty eggs; the
+price being eightpence of our money.
+
+Now we came to Tchiflik, an Armenian village. Here there were thirty
+houses; and as six hours had sped by since we left Tokat, I determined
+to halt for the night, the more particularly as Mohammed's horse showed
+unmistakable signs of fatigue.
+
+The Armenian in whose house I stopped, complained of his Circassian
+neighbours. According to him, they had hazy ideas as to the difference
+between _meum_ and _tuum_. Several cows belonging to the villagers had
+recently disappeared. It was strongly suspected that some Circassians
+were implicated in the robbery.
+
+The country in the neighbourhood was very highly cultivated. The
+farmers' granaries were full of corn. Hundreds of cows and cattle could
+be seen grazing along the side of the road.
+
+We arrived at the Tchamlay Bel mountain. As we were ascending a narrow
+pass which overhung a steep precipice, the guide, a Zaptieh, observed
+that only five days previous a Turk had been killed on this very spot.
+It appeared that there was a band of brigands in the neighbourhood.
+Five of them had attacked a party of four Turkish merchants, who were
+returning from Sivas with, as it was believed, a considerable amount
+of gold on their persons. Three of the Turks ran away, leaving their
+companion, who showed fight, but was shot down; the brigands had taken
+away from him thirty-five liras, besides two horses. An hour later,
+when the news was brought to a village, several of the inhabitants
+turned out on horseback to pursue the robbers: it was too late, they
+had made their escape and carried off the booty.
+
+"Do not be alarmed," said the guide as he concluded his story. "I
+am with you; the brigands will be afraid. Look here!" he carefully
+unstrapped a long, single-barrelled flint gun from his saddle-bow. The
+barrel was tied on to the stock by a piece of string.
+
+"It is a wonderful gun," said the guide. "It belonged to my
+grandfather, I once shot a deer with it."
+
+"Was the deer far off?" I inquired.
+
+"Very far," was the reply. "So far," pointing to a rock about 1000
+yards from us. It was clear that however well the guide might shoot
+with his gun, he was equally good with the long-bow. I began to be a
+little doubtful about the story he had just told us of the brigands.
+
+We rested for a while at Yenihan, a large village with 200 houses;
+the population is composed half of Armenians and half of Turks. The
+Caimacan had gone to the mountains in search of some redif soldiery. He
+had experienced considerable difficulty in inducing these men to leave
+their homes, and join the army in the field.
+
+There was nothing particular to see at Yenihan. Sivas was only nine
+hours distant: I determined to make a long march on the following
+day, and give our horses a rest in that city. The track was good.
+Ox-carts—the chief means of transporting baggage in this part of
+Anatolia—have no difficulty in travelling along the road to the Yeldez
+Ermak, a rapid stream which is about seventy yards wide. It is crossed
+by a good stone bridge on arches. The river, though fordable in the
+winter, would be impassable in the early spring if it were not for the
+bridge. It is a tributary of the Kizil Ermak, and meets that stream
+about twelve miles S.E. of Sivas. The district is hilly, but is highly
+cultivated. In about four hours we reached the Kizil Ermak, a broad,
+deep river. It is crossed by a stone bridge. A road on the opposite
+bank leads to Divriki.
+
+We did not cross the bridge, but continued on to Sivas, which lay
+before us, with a background of rising slopes. A citadel, in a ruined
+state, frowned down upon us from the centre of the city.
+
+Sivas, the capital of Armenia Minor, is situated at the head of the
+valley of the Halys of the ancients. It is the most important military
+position in this part of Turkey. It commands the sole route which
+descends with the waters upon the plateau of Asia Minor. Sivas is the
+key to the Peninsula on the Asiatic side; the Turks ought to fortify
+this place, particularly when they are threatened in Asia Minor by
+the Russians. Should the latter succeed in forcing the first line of
+defence, consisting of Kars, Ardahan, and Bayazid, and afterwards take
+possession of Erzeroum, there will be no other fortified town between
+themselves and Scutari.
+
+The governor had sent an officer with some Zaptiehs as an escort
+for our party. As we were entering the principal street a servant
+approached us with a fine Arab horse, and said that the Pacha hoped
+I would honour him by riding his favourite animal to the quarters
+prepared for my accommodation. It appeared that the Bey in Angora had
+telegraphed to the governor of Sivas about me, hence the preparations
+which had been made.
+
+I dismounted from my own quadruped, and mounted the Pacha's horse.
+I now found that the stirrup-leathers, even when let out to the last
+hole, were much too short, I was sitting with my knees nearly up to my
+chin.
+
+The whole population of Sivas had turned out to welcome me to their
+city. I should have liked to have made my entry in as dignified a
+manner as possible. Dignity soon became out of the question. The Arab
+horse, unaccustomed to sixteen stone on his back, began to kick. To
+avoid ignominiously coming off, I was compelled to take my feet out of
+the stirrups, and ride without these appendages to the saddle.
+
+Luckily the rooms prepared for us were not far distant. On arriving in
+a small square, the officers and Zaptiehs halted before a small, but
+clean-looking house, which faced the Pacha's residence. On the other
+sides of the square were the prison and the barracks. The guard turned
+out from the last-named building, and presented arms as we dismounted.
+The officer of the escort, taking my hand, led me up a staircase to the
+apartment set aside for my accommodation.
+
+Soon after our arrival I was waited upon by an Italian engineer, who
+was employed at Sivas by the government. He was the only European
+in the city, which contains 7000 houses; however, there were three
+American missionaries who had been settled in Sivas for several years
+past with the object of making proselytes.
+
+The Italian was accompanied by an Armenian who spoke French. The latter
+gentleman was very indignant with the Pacha, who had shut up the shops
+belonging to the Christians during the previous week. It appeared that
+some of the redif soldiers had pillaged a house in the market-place.
+Several hundred more redifs were expected to arrive at Sivas; there
+were hardly any regular troops to keep order. The governor had taken
+the precaution of closing all the shops belonging to Armenians during
+the stay of the redifs in the town. This was a precautionary measure.
+It had given great umbrage to the Christians. My visitor loudly
+denounced the proceeding.
+
+"Are people ever tortured here?" I inquired.
+
+"No," said the engineer; "the law is, or rather the judges are, much
+too merciful. There has been only one execution during the last three
+years. The culprit was a soldier; his first wife had been seduced by
+a neighbour. He put her away and took another, but at the same time
+said to his neighbour, 'If you seduce this woman I will kill you!'
+The threat had no effect. The soldier's second wife was treated as the
+former one had been: he revenged himself by killing the adulterer; for
+this offence he was hanged."
+
+"Are people ever impaled here?" I inquired, still having the two
+English priests who wrote some letters to the _Times_ about what they
+said they had seen when travelling on the Danube, in my mind's eye.
+
+The Armenian smiled.
+
+"No, not so bad as that. I believe a robber was impaled eighteen years
+ago; at all events, there is some tradition to that effect."
+
+Shortly afterwards my visitors left the room.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+     The prison in Sivas—Christian prisoners—The gaoler—Kurds and
+     Circassians—A few Armenians—False statement made to me by
+     Christians—The old murderer—The firman for his execution—Kept
+     in suspense—Our Governor dislikes shedding blood—Issek
+     Pacha—He may die—His residence—The law in Turkey about
+     murder—Mercenary dealings—Lax justice.
+
+
+The following day I walked across the square to the prison. I had not
+said anything to the authorities in Sivas about my intended visit to
+this establishment. I wished to see it under its everyday aspect, and
+at the same time to find out if there were so many Christians prisoners
+as the Armenians in Yuzgat would have had me believe.
+
+I found the gaoler seated in the doorway, he was smoking a long pipe.
+
+"Can I see the prison?" I asked.
+
+"Certainly, Effendi."
+
+Going before me, he led the way to a lofty but narrow room. Here there
+were twenty-seven prisoners, clothed in rags and tatters; each man had
+his wrist fastened to his instep by a light iron chain. No gaoler slept
+in this room with the prisoners. They would not have had any difficulty
+in freeing themselves from their manacles had they tried to do so.
+
+"What do you give them to eat?" I inquired.
+
+"A loaf of bread (about 2 lbs. weight) every day, and some water," was
+the reply. "However, many of them have friends in the town, and they
+are supplied with provisions from outside."
+
+"What are the prisoners mostly here for?" I asked.
+
+"For robbery and murder. We have a great many Kurds and Circassians for
+horse and cattle stealing. Then there are a few Armenians, the latter
+chiefly for crime connected with money matters."
+
+"How many prisoners are there altogether?" I remarked.
+
+"One hundred and two."
+
+"And how many Christians?"
+
+"Six; all the rest belong to Islam."
+
+As the population of Sivas is fairly divided between the two sects, it
+was very flattering for the Armenians that there should be so few of
+their number amongst the prisoners. But, after what I had been told at
+Yuzgat, my belief in the truthfulness of their community was very much
+shaken.
+
+In another part of the gaol there were several prisoners without
+chains. They were walking about in an enclosed courtyard. One of them,
+an old man who was very much bowed down by years, appealed to us.
+Taking my hand he touched it with his forehead, and then besought me to
+speak to the Pacha for him.
+
+"What is he here for?" I inquired.
+
+"For murder," was the reply; "and a very cold-blooded murder too."
+
+"He is a Circassian," continued the gaoler, "and the firman for his
+execution arrived at Sivas two years ago."
+
+"Yes," said the old man, in a whining voice, "two years ago! and I have
+been kept in suspense ever since. It is an awful thing, Effendi—I never
+know from one hour to another that it may not be my last!"
+
+"Why was he not executed?" I inquired of the official.
+
+"Our Governor dislikes shedding blood," said the gaoler," and he has
+put the firman away in a drawer."
+
+"Yes," interrupted the aged murderer; "Issek Pacha is a kind man, he
+will not put me to death; but he is very old—he may die! The Governor
+who will succeed him might find the firman, and order me to be hanged!"
+
+"Well, what do you want me to do?" I asked.
+
+"Only, Effendi, to beseech the Pacha to tear up the firman!" cried the
+old man in imploring tones. "Let me end my years in the prison, for
+here every one is kind to me; and let me not be strangled at the end of
+a rope on the scaffold!"
+
+"Well, I will speak to Issek Pacha," I said; and with difficulty
+escaping from the murderer, who threw himself on all fours and
+frantically embraced my legs, I walked to the governor's residence.
+
+He was seated on a sofa at one end of a large hall, and surrounded
+by attendants with documents awaiting his signature. He at once
+rose, and motioned to me to sit down by his side. After the customary
+salutations, I mentioned to him that I had just visited the prison and
+had seen the old murderer.
+
+"Ah! you have seen him," said the Pacha gravely, at the same time
+slowly stroking his stomach. "He is in a great state of mind, I
+believe, lest I should die before he does, and my successor order the
+sentence to be put into execution. But he has nothing to fear; I have
+the firman safe in my drawer, and am trying to arrange the matter with
+the relatives of the murdered man."
+
+It appears that there is a curious law in Turkey, to the effect that if
+a man has committed a murder, and the order for his execution has come
+from Constantinople, the Pacha whose duty it is to have the sentence
+carried out need not do so, provided that the relations of the murdered
+person request that the assassin's life may be spared.
+
+This frequently gives rise to mercenary dealings between the assassin
+and the relatives, for the latter hold his life in their hands. If the
+murderer is rich, he will often have to give up all his property; and
+then if the relations pardon him, the law enacts that he must spend
+fifteen years in gaol. The manner of carrying out this part of the
+sentence is extremely lax. Should the friends of the prisoner be able
+to scrape together enough money to satisfy the officials connected with
+the prison, the murderer will be allowed to escape and remain at large
+in his native town.
+
+Later in the day two Armenian gentlemen called upon me. Presently one
+of them remarked that Issek Pacha was immensely rich, and that many
+tales were in circulation about him.
+
+"Yes," said his companion, "there is a story to the effect that one
+day the Grand Vizier was walking by the side of the Bosphorus with the
+late Sultan Abdul Aziz. A beautiful yacht, the property of Issek Pacha,
+happened to be anchored close to the royal palace. 'What a magnificent
+vessel!' said the Sultan. 'To whom does it belong?' The Grand Vizier,"
+continued the Armenian, "did not much like the Governor of Sivas, and
+replied, 'It was the property of Issek Pacha, but he has sent it here
+to be placed at your majesty's disposal.' 'Write and say that I accept
+it with pleasure,' said the Sultan. The first notification which Issek
+Pacha had of this transaction was the receipt of an official letter
+from Constantinople enclosing the Sultan's thanks for the present.
+
+"A subscription had been recently started in the vilayet or province
+of Sivas, with the object of collecting funds to enable the Government
+to continue the war. Ten thousand liras were collected. The Pacha sent
+the money to the Grand Vizier without exactly stating the sources from
+which it was derived. The minister at once ordered the receipt of this
+sum, as coming from Issek Pacha, to be acknowledged in the public
+journals; he also desired a secretary to write an official letter
+to the governor to thank him for his large donation, and say in the
+postscript that when the rest of the people in the province of Sivas
+had sent in their subscriptions, he was to forward them immediately
+to Constantinople. Our Pacha did not like this letter," continued my
+informant. "However, what could he do? he is an enormously rich man,
+and, though it went very much against the grain, he sent a fresh 10,000
+liras to the Porte."
+
+It was clear that the Armenians did not love their Pacha. From what I
+subsequently heard, their dislike to him originates in the fact that he
+is not amenable to bribes. That he is not a miser can be easily shown.
+Misers are not in the habit of expending large sums of money in the
+construction of public buildings. Issek Pacha at the time of my stay
+in Sivas was having a large mosque built in the town of Erzingan, at
+his own expense. It was said that this building would cost him 40,000
+Turkish liras.
+
+Three American missionaries called; they had been settled for several
+years in Anatolia, and had succeeded in making some converts amidst the
+Armenians, but they had not in any one instance induced a Mohammedan to
+change his faith.
+
+I inquired if it were true, as stated at Yuzgat, that Armenian boys and
+girls had been carried away from their parents, and shut up in Issek
+Pacha's seraglio.
+
+"No! no," said one of my visitors. "At all events, we have never heard
+of anything at all authentic as to such proceedings." When I mentioned
+the subject of impalement, and asked if they had ever known of any
+Christians who had been impaled by the Pacha's orders, the three
+missionaries seemed very much surprised at the question, one of them
+observed that the Turks were by no means a cruel race; but that their
+system of administering justice was a bad one.
+
+I now learnt that the proprietor of the house in which I was living
+was a shoemaker. The Pacha had hired from him the apartments which I
+occupied, and which were generally given to travellers. Mohammed, when
+he gave me this piece of information, suggested that it would be a good
+opportunity for me to buy him a pair of boots.
+
+"Such beautiful boots as there are downstairs," he continued, "the
+Effendi could get both his feet into one of them. They will keep
+out the cold. If I do not have something over my slippers I shall be
+frost-bitten before we reach Kars!"
+
+The proprietor brought the boots for my inspection. He had a very
+Jewish type of countenance, and at once commenced driving a bargain
+with Mohammed.
+
+"But you told me downstairs that the boots were 125 piastres, and now
+you ask 165!" observed the Turkish servant indignantly.
+
+"They are my boots, and not yours!" said the Armenian, "and I shall
+charge what I like for them!"
+
+It appeared that the difference of opinion between Mohammed and the
+shoemaker had arisen owing to the Armenian thinking that he would
+be paid in _caime_, or bank notes, and not in silver. Caime in Sivas
+had fallen to 165 piastres the lira. It was formerly 125; so by the
+depreciation of the paper currency the shoemaker would lose 40 piastres
+on every pair of boots he sold, if purchased from him at the present
+rate of exchange. Many of the Turks were alarmed at the constant fall
+in the value of their paper currency. They objected very strongly
+to being paid any large sums in Turkish bank-notes. According to the
+son of Crispin, only ten years previous the Government had issued an
+immense quantity of caime, and had said that in the following month of
+March this paper would be accepted in payment of the taxes.
+
+"March arrived," continued the shoemaker, "we took our caime to the
+tax-collectors. They would not receive it. A vast number of the notes
+then issued are still in the possession of merchants in this town, and
+are valueless."
+
+When I was in Yuzgat Mr. Vankovitch had asked me to intercede with
+Issek Pacha for an Italian lady, the widow of a Pole who had died a few
+months previously in Sivas. The Pole had been the chief engineer in the
+district, and at the time of his death was owed about 120_l_. by the
+Turkish authorities. His widow had applied to the Pacha for this sum,
+but was refused payment on the ground that she had a son, and that her
+late husband's father was still living.
+
+"You must write to your husband's Ambassador," said the Pacha, "and ask
+him to inform us how the law of succession is applied in his country,
+we will then pay you everything to which you are entitled."
+
+In the meantime an inhabitant took pity upon the Italian lady, and had
+received her into his harem. Here she was now living, and anxiously
+awaiting a reply from Constantinople to her letter. Months passed away,
+no answer came. The poor woman had exhausted the small resources which
+she possessed at the time of her husband's death.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+     The Governor calls—A great honour—The Khedive's treasurer—The
+     Pacha's carriage—The Turks and Christians—The Russian
+     Government—The Armenian subjects of the Porte—The seeds of
+     disaffection—General Ignatieff—The treasurer—The Italian
+     lady—Erzingan—The Governor's invitation—The cold in this
+     country—The Pacha nearly frozen to death—His march from Kars
+     to Erzeroum—Deep chasms along the track—The Conference is
+     over—The Missionaries' home—American hospitality—The ladies—A
+     Turkish woman in the streets of New York—A Chinese lad—New
+     Orleans—The Anglo-Indian telegraph—The Franco-German War—The
+     potato plant—The Armenians more deceitful than the Turks—The
+     converts to Protestantism—The Tzar's Government does not
+     tolerate any religion save its own—The superstitions attached
+     to the Greek faith.
+
+
+I was thinking of calling upon the Italian lady when Mohammed, running
+into my room, informed me that the governor was actually coming in
+person to call upon me, and that it was a great honour; for some time
+before this the Khedive's treasurer had passed through Sivas, and Issek
+Pacha had not deigned to visit him, but had conversed with the Egyptian
+from the street.
+
+"See what a great man you are, Effendi!" said the delighted Mohammed.
+"The equal of a Pacha too! fortunate is my fate that I have been
+assigned to you as a servant!"
+
+The governor drove up to the door in a vehicle which very much
+resembled a brewer's dray. It was the only carriage of any sort or kind
+in Sivas. This fact alone added considerably to the Pacha's importance
+in that town. He was a corpulent man, and required a great deal of
+pushing at the hands of his two attendants to make him pass through
+the doorway of the carriage; two steps enabled the person inside the
+vehicle to descend to the ground.
+
+Issek Pacha, turning with great caution, walked backwards, his two
+servants holding his feet and guiding them to the steps below. After
+resting a few seconds, to recover from this exertion, the governor
+slowly mounted the staircase which led to my apartment.
+
+He now told me that twenty-five years ago the Turks and Christians
+got on very well together, but ever since the Crimean war the Russian
+Government has been actively engaged in tampering with the Armenian
+subjects of the Porte, and has been doing its best to sow the seeds
+of disaffection amongst the younger Armenians, by promising to make
+them counts and dukes in the event of their rising in arms against the
+Porte.
+
+"If it were not for Russian intrigues," continued the Pacha, "we Turks
+should be very good friends with the Christians. But Ignatieff is very
+clever, he will not let us alone, and does his best to create discord
+in our ranks."
+
+I mentioned the case of the Italian lady, and asked him if he could not
+do something for her.
+
+"It is a very difficult question," replied the Pacha; "her husband,
+the engineer, was a refugee Pole, and had lost his nationality as a
+Russian subject. Moreover, his father lives in Russia, and may claim
+that the son's property should be administered according to Muscovite
+laws. Then there is an infant child; and, besides this, the lady
+herself is an Italian, and is expecting another baby. We have written
+to Constantinople for instructions, when they arrive we shall know what
+proportion of the husband's property is due to the widow."
+
+"What should you advise to be done in the matter?" he inquired.
+
+"My opinion is that you ought to give the lady sufficient money to pay
+her expenses so far as Constantinople; for there she can speak to her
+own Ambassador, and arrange the business more easily than it can be
+done here."
+
+"Not a bad idea," said the Pacha. "I will advance two months of her
+husband's salary."
+
+"_Gell!_ come!" he cried to a crowd of servants who were waiting
+outside, and whilst one attendant handed him a cigarette, and a second
+some coffee, the Pacha desired a third to tell his treasurer that he
+wished to speak to him immediately. This official now arrived.
+
+"I want two months' wages from the sum owing to the late engineer to be
+brought here at once," said the governor.
+
+"But no order about the distribution of the property has come from
+Constantinople," replied the treasurer hesitatingly; "if we pay any
+money to the widow, we shall be held responsible for it ourselves."
+
+"No," I said, "I will be responsible for the amount. If the authorities
+at Constantinople say that you have done wrong, I will repay you the
+money."
+
+"Certainly not," said the Pacha; "the responsibility is mine. My orders
+are to be instantly obeyed," he added.
+
+"Is the money to be paid in caime or silver?" asked the treasurer.
+
+"Silver," was the reply. "When the poor woman's husband died, caime
+was worth as much as medjidis, but now there is a great difference, she
+must not be the loser. Run!" he cried.
+
+"On my head be it!" replied the treasurer. In a few minutes he returned
+with a small sack of silver.
+
+"Will you take it to the lady yourself?" said the governor, handing me
+the bag. "And when do you leave Sivas?" he added.
+
+"Probably in three days' time."
+
+"Well," continued the governor, "you will pass by Erzingan, where
+I have some property, and I hope you will stay in my house. Nay, no
+thanks. It will be doing me an honour, and I have written for rooms to
+be prepared. I shall send some Zaptiehs with you," he added.
+
+"I do not want any."
+
+"Nay, but you must have some. You will have terrible hard work in
+crossing the mountains between this and Divriki. There are already two
+or three feet of snow on the track. In some places you will require
+men to dig a way before your party. You do not know what the cold is in
+this country," he continued. "I was once nearly frozen to death myself,
+going from Kars to Erzeroum, just about the time of the Crimean war. I
+had 500 soldiers with me; a snow-storm came on, we lost our way. My men
+strayed in different directions. I had furs, and was able to resist the
+cold, but when we counted up my party the next morning, more than half
+the men were frost-bitten, and several had died during the night. There
+is another reason why you require several guides," added the governor.
+"The path over the mountains is covered with snow, and there are deep
+chasms and fissures alongside the track, some of them are more than
+a hundred feet deep. The guides carry poles, and will sound the path
+before your horses, otherwise you will not have much chance of reaching
+Kars."
+
+"The Conference is over," said the Pacha, as he rose from the divan.
+"The news has been telegraphed to us from Constantinople."
+
+"What has been the result of it?" I inquired.
+
+"Nothing! What else could you expect? Particularly when Russia, the
+cause and origin of all our difficulties, was permitted to have a
+representative at the Conference—and such a representative—for General
+Ignatieff is a cunning old fox!"
+
+Then shaking hands with me—which I afterwards learned from Mohammed
+was a very great honour—the Pacha waddled downstairs, and drove to his
+official residence.
+
+Later in the day I rode to the missionaries' home, a pleasant little
+house situated in the outskirts of the town. On their arrival in Sivas
+they had taken an abode from some Armenians, but the latter demanded
+such an exorbitant rent for the house in question that the missionaries
+determined to build one for themselves.
+
+My friends' names were Perry, Hubbard, and Riggs. They received me with
+that hospitality which an Englishman always receives from Americans, no
+matter whether they meet him in the States or elsewhere.
+
+Two of these gentlemen had brought their wives with them from America.
+Several ruddy-faced and pretty children who were playing in the room
+showed that the climate of Sivas was in no way an unhealthy one.
+
+The ladies liked the place; but when they first came here they had
+to put up with a great deal of annoyance, owing to the Turkish little
+boys. The latter, unaccustomed to see women walking about in European
+costume, and with their faces uncovered, had sometimes followed them
+in the street and thrown mud at their dresses. Whenever this occurred,
+and any elder Turks were present, they had chastised their young
+compatriots and put an immediate end to the disturbance.
+
+"I dare say," observed one of the missionaries, "that it was a strange
+sight for the people in Sivas to see our ladies walking about the town.
+However, if a Turkish woman were put down in the streets of New York,
+I reckon that she would have a crowd at her heels before long."
+
+This remark reminded me of an episode which had recently occurred in
+America, and which had found its way into the newspapers. It appeared
+that a Chinese lad was selling sweets and lollipops in New Orleans,
+when a burly native, coming up to him, kicked over the tray and the
+boy's wares. The lad, without a word of remonstrance, picked up his
+lollipops. The man a second time upset them into the mud. The child
+looked at his tormentor, and, collecting his sweetmeats, said to him,
+"You are a Christian and I am a heathen; I should be sorry to change
+places with you!"
+
+"There are bad people all over the world," remarked one of the
+missionaries; "the poor ignorant Turks are not nearly so cruel as some
+people would have us believe."
+
+"No, they are not cruel," observed another gentleman, "but they are
+pig-headed—that is their great fault. They will not advance with the
+times in which they live; if they adopt European inventions, they
+copy them blindly, and without adapting them to circumstances. Soon
+after the telegraph was invented, the Turks determined to have special
+lines, and to use the Turkish alphabet; the man who was employed to
+arrange the system copied it blindly from our own. Now 'E' and 'I,'
+the fifth and ninth letters in our alphabet, are those which occur
+very frequently in an ordinary message; in Europe the telegraph dial
+is so arranged as to facilitate the transmission of the letters most
+often employed. The Turk, when he came to 'I,' and found it was the
+ninth letter in our alphabet, placed the ninth in his own on the same
+footing, whereas that letter is, comparatively speaking, but seldom
+used."
+
+"A few years ago," observed one of the missionaries, "there was an
+Englishman here connected with the Anglo-Indian Telegraph. We were then
+as well supplied with information as the people in London or New York.
+It was the time of the French war, and all the news was sent daily from
+England to Hindostan. Our friend used to tap the wire, and send us a
+little budget of information every morning; but now he has gone, and
+all that we hear is several weeks or months old."
+
+"There was actually a great deal of difficulty in introducing the
+potato plant," remarked another gentleman; "this will give you an idea
+of the nature of the people with whom we have to deal. Some foreigners
+brought over the seeds and planted them. They came up very well; the
+soil is admirably suited for their growth. But the natives would not
+eat the potatoes. It was not until the military authorities, who were
+short of provisions, supplied them to the soldiers in lieu of other
+edibles that the soldiers would partake of this vegetable. They soon
+acquired a taste for it, and potato culture is gradually spreading
+throughout the district."
+
+"I tell you what it is," said another missionary, "the Turks about
+here are just the inside-out-sidest and the outside-insidest,
+the bottom-side-upwardest and the top-side-downwardest, the
+back-side-forwardest and the forward-side-backwardest people I have
+ever seen. Why, they call a compass, which points to the north,
+'Quebleh,' south, just for the sake of contradiction, and they have
+to change their watches every twenty-four hours, because they count
+their time from after sunset, instead of reckoning up the day like
+Christians."
+
+The peculiarity of this gentleman's expressions rather struck me at the
+time. It was clear that he had not formed a favourable opinion of the
+Sultan's Mohammedan subjects; but when I changed the conversation to
+the Armenians, I found that the company looked upon them as being quite
+as ignorant as the Turks, and much more deceitful.
+
+The good missionaries found the conversion of these superstitious
+and ignorant Christians of the East a very difficult and uphill task.
+Indeed I subsequently heard from some Armenian Roman Catholics, who
+might have been prejudiced in making the statement, that most of the
+converts to Protestantism were from amongst the Armenian shop-keepers
+who supplied the mission with goods.
+
+"Supposing the Russians were to conquer Anatolia, what would be the
+position of the Protestant mission?" I inquired of my hosts.
+
+"We should be immediately turned out of the country to make way for
+the Russian priests," was the answer. "The Tzar's Government does not
+tolerate any religion save its own."
+
+This remark struck me, coming, as it did, not from an English
+Protestant, but from an American, and from an inhabitant of that
+country which, in spite of its Republican institutions, has always been
+thought to have a great sympathy with Russia.
+
+So the Government of this last-mentioned Empire would not brook any
+foreign mission in its territory, and the Emperor would not be likely
+to allow American missionaries to impart to the Russian idolaters a
+knowledge of the Protestant faith.
+
+Protestantism implies freedom of thought. The right of investigation
+would be very displeasing to a despotic set of rulers. The
+superstitions and debased form of worship attached to the Greek
+religion have no chance of being replaced by our pure Protestant faith,
+until such time as the autocratic system of government which prevails
+throughout Russia is terminated by a revolution.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+     An Armenian Monastery—A large garden—Farms belonging to the
+     Monks—The Bishop—A fast day—The Turkish finance—The Armenian
+     merchants in Sivas—The telegraph employed by them—The rise
+     and fall in _caime_—The breath of scandal—A former Governor
+     of Sivas—A suspicious case—His Eminence cannot marry—Are
+     Protestant Bishops allowed to marry?—The Chapels belonging
+     to the Monastery—A curious altar—A strange tradition—The
+     Martyrs of Sivas—A picture of one of the Kings of Armenia—The
+     Kings and the Church—Things are very different now—Privileges
+     of the Monks—The Russian war with Persia—An Armenian
+     General—Hassan, Khan of Persia—Sugar—How to make a large
+     fortune.
+
+
+The following day I rode to an Armenian monastery, which is known by
+the name of the Monastery of Nishan or of the Cross. It stands on a
+rising slope, about two miles from Sivas. Its Gothic towers, more than
+500 years old, look down upon the town and neighbouring villages, and
+can be seen for many miles around.
+
+A large garden, over thirty acres in extent, enclosed by a high wall
+made of dried clay, supplies the monks with fruit and vegetables. It
+bounds the monastery upon one side; on the other there are several
+farms, which furnish cattle, sheep, and such other live stock as may be
+required.
+
+A long low passage with damp walls led the way, with many a winding
+turn, to the apartment which had been reserved for my use.
+
+Here I found the bishop and several other priests belonging to the
+community. The ceiling of the room was of handsomely-carved oak, and
+divans, as in the Turkish houses, supplied the place of chairs. Some
+Armenian merchants now arrived, and shortly afterwards dinner was
+announced.
+
+It was a fast day. The bishop himself could not partake of the dishes.
+However, he gave permission to the other guests to break the fast, and
+a turkey stuffed with apples—the _pièce de résistance_—was nothing to
+the hungry visitors; the dinner being in the Turkish style, made up of
+a series of surprises to our stomachs.
+
+According to one of the Armenians, the Turkish finance was in an
+utterly hopeless condition.
+
+"Our Government," he remarked, "first said that it would only issue
+paper money to the amount of 3,000,000 liras, and we have caime to the
+value of 11,000,000 liras in circulation!"
+
+"Yes," said another merchant, "the lira is now at 160 piastres, but if
+there is a war it will rise to 500."
+
+"The Government will be the loser in the long run," he continued,
+"every one is speculating for the fall, and we are buying up all the
+gold we can."
+
+I now learnt that the Armenian merchants in Sivas employed the
+telegraph very freely in their monetary speculations. The inhabitants
+in general only knew of the rise or fall in the value of their paper
+money by the post, which arrived once every fortnight. The value of
+caime in proportion to gold was reckoned according to the date of the
+post's delivery. But, as the Turkish bank-notes were becoming more and
+more depreciated every day, the Armenian merchants who employed the
+telegraph were able to make large sums by buying up all the gold in the
+district, and pocketing the difference between the actual exchange and
+that which passed current at Sivas.
+
+The walls of the monastery were not thick enough to keep the breath
+of scandal from reaching the abode of the recluses. I was told of a
+former governor of Sivas, who had been extremely popular throughout
+the district, and who in forty days had actually established order
+in the town and neighbourhood. It appeared that this Pacha was a very
+good-looking man. One day, when he was at Constantinople, a sister of
+the late Sultan Abdul Aziz chanced to see him. She wished to marry the
+Adonis; "but unfortunately," added my Armenian informant, "he was in
+love with his own wife, a pretty woman. He declined the Sultan's offer
+to take his sister, who was not good-looking, as chief lady in the
+harem. Soon afterwards the Pacha died at Smyrna under very suspicious
+circumstances. It is generally supposed that he was poisoned."
+
+"His Eminence is freed from all such dangers," whispered another of the
+guests, as he called my attention by a nudge with his elbow.
+
+"How so?" I asked.
+
+"Why, he cannot marry. Our bishops are not allowed this indulgence.
+Should a priest take unto himself a wife, he can never become a
+bishop."
+
+"How does your system answer?" I inquired.
+
+"Answer! very badly. They are not allowed to have wives of their own;
+but they look after the welfare of the ladies in their congregation.
+Are your Protestant bishops allowed to marry?"
+
+"Yes."
+
+"Well, it would be a good thing for the married people in Armenia, if
+our bishops had the same permission."
+
+I now went to see the chapels belonging to the monastery.
+
+An altar in one of them was profusely decorated with gold and other
+ornaments. It was erected to the memory of the four martyrs of Sivas
+who were torn to pieces by the Pagans about 1500 years ago. It is said
+that our Saviour shortly afterwards appeared to the inhabitants of
+the town in the form of a bird, and alighted upon a large stone near
+the place where the four Christians had been murdered. The stone was
+subsequently taken to the monastery, and this altar had been erected
+upon it. In another chapel, there was a picture of one of the kings
+of Armenia in the act of being consecrated by an archbishop of Sivas.
+The holy father who called my attention to this picture pointed to
+the suppliant form of the king, who was kneeling before a priest, and
+to a monk who was writing the date of the coronation on a scroll of
+parchment, and looking down upon the sovereign.
+
+"Things are very different to what they were then," remarked the
+priest. "In those days even kings had to obey the holy Church. They
+do not think anything of us now," he added, with a sigh; "instead
+of giving presents to the Church, they take away from it the few
+privileges and the little wealth it has left."
+
+"Have you any privileges belonging to your order?" I asked.
+
+"Only one; we have not to pay any duty upon salt, and I suppose that
+even this slight exemption from taxation will be taken away from us ere
+long."
+
+A throne belonging to a former king of Armenia was next produced. It
+was made of ebony, and in form much resembled a shut-up garden-chair,
+but one of gigantic dimensions. The sovereign for whom this throne had
+been made, died several hundred years ago at Sivas. The worthy fathers
+differed a few hundred years as to the date of the monarch's decease,
+and so it is impossible for me to give it. His bones were taken to
+Van, and interred there; however, his sons reigned for many years
+afterwards, and held their court at Sivas.
+
+"Our nation has had a great many reverses," said the bishop; "but who
+knows what is in store for us?"
+
+"We do not want any Russian rulers!" said an old Armenian merchant.
+"When I was a child," he continued, "the Russians made war upon the
+Persians. A general, second in command of the Russian forces, was
+an Armenian. The head of our Church helped the Russians, and 25,000
+Armenians were levied to aid them in the war against the Shah. The
+Persian army was annihilated; twenty-five cities were destroyed; the
+invading forces advanced towards Teheran. The Shah then made a treaty
+with Russia."
+
+"What has that got to do with your dislike of the Russians?" I inquired.
+
+"Listen!" said the old man. "After the war was over, the Russian chief
+was alarmed lest the Armenian general, who was a very skilful officer,
+might make himself King of Armenia. He accused him of treason, had his
+eyes taken out, and sent him a prisoner to Russia."[18]
+
+"The Russians would not have been pleased if we had been made
+independent at that time," said a priest. "They have always looked
+upon us as a certain inheritance, all they want to do is to take our
+territory without having to fight for it."
+
+"We revenged ourselves upon Hassan, Khan of Persia, who had defiled one
+of our churches near Ararat," remarked the old merchant. "He was taken
+prisoner and transported to the church which he had desecrated. He was
+afterwards tied face to face with a dog, and given the same food as
+that animal. The Persian soon died of shame or starvation."
+
+There is but little export trade from Sivas. Tobacco is the staple
+produce of the country. All the articles imported are very dear, owing
+to the expense of transport from Samsoun, the roads between Sivas and
+that port being very bad.
+
+Sugar, I was informed, costs eighteenpence a pound. If an enterprising
+inhabitant were to start a manufactory of this article of consumption,
+he would speedily make an immense fortune. Beetroot and a peculiar sort
+of sweet carrot abound throughout the district. The first-mentioned
+vegetable can be bought for eight shillings a ton. It might be grown
+for very much less. Any amount of water power could be brought from the
+neighbouring mountains to bear upon machinery. Coal is also to be found
+in the neighbourhood. This part of Anatolia is supplied with sugar
+from Constantinople. If it were manufactured on the spot, the profit
+would be very great, for the cost of carriage would be saved; in all
+probability it would utterly supplant the Constantinople sugar, and
+soon find a market throughout the whole of Asia Minor.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIX.
+
+     The principal mosque—An ostrich egg—Curious custom—The
+     dancing dervishes—A regiment of cavalry leaves Sivas—The
+     arms of the men—Appearance of the horses—A short route to
+     Erzeroum—Dudusa—The Kizil Ermak—Scenery—Glass replaced
+     by alabaster—A raid on an Armenian village—The robbers
+     caught—Women said to have been outraged—Kotnu—An accident—The
+     Zaptiehs out of temper—Mohammed's appetite—A comparison
+     between Mohammed and Osman.
+
+
+On leaving the monastery, we rode to the principal mosque of the
+town. I was struck by seeing a large ostrich egg suspended from the
+ceiling by a silver chain. On my asking the Turk who showed me over the
+building, why this egg was hung there, he replied,—
+
+"Effendi, the ostrich always looks at the eggs which she lays; if one
+of them is bad, she breaks it. This egg is suspended here as a warning
+to men that, if they are bad, God will break them in the same way as
+the ostrich does her eggs."
+
+Mohammed met me as I was returning to my house. He was very much
+excited.
+
+"What is the matter?" I inquired.
+
+"Effendi, a regiment is about to march to Erzeroum. It will be a
+grand sight. The Pacha will accompany it out of the town. The dancing
+dervishes will go before the band. Other dervishes will be there with
+sharp knives; they will cut themselves, but the blood will not flow! It
+will be a miracle! And all this we can see from the Effendi's window!"
+
+"Happy are you, O Mohammed, to be able to see such wonderful sights
+without paying for them," I remarked; then, giving him my horse, I went
+upstairs to my room.
+
+An immense crowd had gathered in the square; the part facing the
+barracks was thronged by hundreds of idlers who were eagerly pressing
+against the gates. Presently they were thrown wide open. The governor,
+in his dray-like carriage, issued from the portals. He was accompanied
+by the colonel of the regiment, who was mounted on a superb grey, and
+rode by the side of the Pacha's vehicle.
+
+Next came six dancing dervishes clad in sackcloth, and with long cowls
+over their green turbans. They in their turn were followed by about
+twenty men—some carrying what appeared to be bill-hooks—others, maces
+with leaden balls attached to them by chains, and bright steel skewers.
+
+"This is delightful!" said Mohammed, who, by way of seeing better, had
+climbed on to the top of the divan, torn away the piece of paper which
+supplied the place of a pane of glass, and, having thrust his head and
+shoulders through the aperture, was staring with his mouth wide open at
+the procession.
+
+"Please God they will soon begin to cut themselves!"
+
+However, he was doomed to disappointment; the dervishes had already
+cut themselves in the barrack-yard, and were not inclined to repeat the
+performance.
+
+On they went in serried ranks, followed by the troopers, all of whom
+were excellently mounted on horses averaging about fifteen hands, and
+which looked in capital condition. The men were armed with American
+revolvers and repeating-rifles, whilst a short curved scimitar hung by
+each man's side.
+
+"How long will it be before they reach Erzeroum?" I inquired of
+Mohammed.
+
+"About a month," was the answer; "but they are going by a short route
+by Kara Hissar, and we by Divriki, Arabkir, and Egin, which will be
+a long way round. We shall arrive first at our destination, as the
+regiment will not march more than sixteen miles a day."
+
+The Pacha ordered his coachman to draw up the carriage on one side of
+the road; the dervishes raised a mournful yell. The regiment, passing
+onward, was lost to view behind an avenue of poplars.
+
+The following morning I started at daybreak in the direction of Dudusa,
+a village about five hours from Sivas. For some distance we marched
+alongside the left bank of the Kizil Ermak. The track was very heavy.
+The baggage-horses had great difficulty in making a way through the
+mud. Presently we came upon some firm soil. The scenery changed from
+a flat expanse of plough-land to a winding chain of rugged heights.
+Chain succeeded chain. Snowy crests were piled up in rear of each other
+like the billows of the deep. Our path led round these mountain peaks.
+From time to time we caught a glimpse of the Kizil Ermak, which, white
+as silver, flowed through the vale at our feet. Nature's walls on all
+sides of us were of every colour; at every moment, red, blue, and grey
+sandstone met our gaze.
+
+We round a neighbouring crag; a vast rock of the purest marble lies
+before our party. Huge blocks strew the borders of the path; they
+sparkle beneath the sky, and rival in their Parian whiteness the snowy
+heights overhead. On the summit of an adjacent hill is the monastery
+of Dudusa, and at its foot the village of the same name, made up
+of straggling houses, built at long intervals apart—some of mud and
+marble; others—where the inhabitants had been too idle to transport the
+blocks from the adjacent rock—of dried clay; and a few of the abodes
+of the better-to-do farmers actually boasting glass windows! In other
+houses the panes were replaced by paper or pieces of some transparent
+alabaster, which is found in large quantities in the neighbourhood.
+
+Dudusa is an Armenian village. I now learnt that Issek Pacha was very
+popular amongst the villagers. I must say that I was a little surprised
+at this, after the way the Armenians in Sivas had abused their
+governor. Two months previous, some Turks, from a neighbouring hamlet,
+had made a raid on the flocks belonging to the inhabitants of Dudusa,
+and had carried off fifty sheep. Information of the robbery was given
+to the Pacha, he at once sent out a party of soldiers. The robbers had
+been arrested. They were expiating their offence in prison.
+
+I had heard at Sivas that a redif battalion which had lately marched
+to Erzeroum had outraged some women near Dudusa. I took the opportunity
+to inquire if the story were true. Like many other statements which had
+been made to me by the so-called Christians in Anatolia, it turned out
+to be a fiction. The redif soldiers had passed that way. The only thing
+which could be said against them was that they had not paid for the
+bread with which they had been supplied, as the military authorities
+had not given them any money. There were no officers with the troops,
+but the men had given the name of their regiment. On application to
+head-quarters, the amount due would be transmitted to the villagers.
+
+I did not stay long at Dudusa, but, after lunching at the priest's
+house, continued the march towards Kotnu, another village about
+twenty-seven miles, or about nine hours from the capital of the
+province.
+
+It was dusk long ere we reached our halting-place. In passing over a
+narrow wooden bridge, one of my horses put his foot down a hole between
+the planks, and nearly broke his leg. Misfortunes never come singly. A
+moment later, the poor brute strayed a few yards from the track. He was
+at once bogged in the treacherous soil. Everything had to be unstrapped
+from the saddle, a rope was attached to his surcingle, and then, by
+means of the other horses, he was dragged from the slimy trammels. It
+was hard work loading him again.
+
+The thermometer had fallen to considerably below zero. The wind howled
+and blew the snowy flakes in our faces. The horses would not stand
+still. Our matches were wet through. We could not light them. Under
+such circumstances we had to arrange the baggage.
+
+The Zaptiehs who had been sent to act as guides would not help; they
+sat still, cursing their destiny which had made them accompany a mad
+giaour like myself, who had chosen to travel from Scutari to Kars all
+the way by land, instead of going the greater part of the distance by
+sea, like a sensible true believer. I have but little doubt that the
+same train of thought was passing through Mohammed's and Radford's
+mind. However, the latter never flinched, and Mohammed had evidently
+won his friendship, for, on my asking my English servant how he liked
+his new companion, he replied, "Sir, he is worth three of Osman at any
+time, save praying-times, and then there is not a pin to choose between
+them. They must be awful sinners, these Mohammedans, if they require
+five prayers a day to settle the account with their consciences.
+Mohammed ain't that artful as Osman was. He don't choose the moment
+when there is work to be done, to set to work at his victuals, or to
+flop down on his knees to say his prayers. Mohammed has his pray all to
+himself afterwards, and then it don't so much signify!"
+
+"What! Has not Mohammed so good an appetite as Osman?"
+
+"No, sir, Mohammed has more of a Christian's appetite; he is satisfied
+with what I put before him, he don't go prigging out of the tin like
+that there other Turk. Why, I watched Osman one day eating a chicken
+which I had kept back for your supper! A few days before, I had
+missed one out of the pot, and had taxed him with it; he then said,
+'_keupek_,' dog, as if a dog would go and lift up the lid of the tin! I
+used to call Osman 'keupek' afterwards, and he did not seem to like it.
+The other Turks, when they want to give it a fellow, tell him that he
+is the grandson of a dog; but I called Osman the original animal—dirty
+hound that he was too—quite spoiled my coat, that he did!"
+
+And my servant, lighting a short wooden pipe, the wonder of the Turks,
+smoked furiously—the rapidity of his puffs probably denoting an extreme
+dislike to his late fellow-servant.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXX.
+
+     Snow—The path covered by it—The scenery—Upset in a
+     snow-drift—Nearly down a chasm—Probing the ground—A
+     consultation—Teaching my followers manners—May he die of
+     the plague—A baggage-horse knocked up—Yarbasan—A dirty
+     village—The farmer committing himself to Providence—Visiting
+     his friends—The Zaptiehs—Their remarks—The giaour threatened
+     to beat us—The Inglis giaour is different to the Armenian
+     giaour.
+
+
+Snow fell heavily during the night. The next morning our path was
+covered to a depth of quite two feet. In the valley it was as much as
+our horses could do to force a passage onward; but, as we ascended
+a mountain path, the snow, though deep, was in a frozen state, and
+afforded a firm foothold.
+
+The scenery was very picturesque as we gradually climbed the steep. The
+bushes and pine-trees which studded the mountain's sides were wreathed
+in flossy snow; crags of all shapes and colours glinted out above the
+pale white carpet. A thick veil of azure clouds hung on the peaks of
+the distant hills; then, gradually dispersed by the rising sun, it
+broke up into a hundred different forms, and, ascending higher in the
+sky, opened out other mountains to our vision. Layer upon layer of
+seemingly ever-ascending ranges barred the way in front. They sparkled
+beneath the rays of the golden orb. They flashed and glittered like the
+billows of the mighty deep. My eyeballs acted and felt as if they would
+burst beneath the glare. The village at our feet disappeared in the
+distance; shrubs and such-like traces of vegetation were now no longer
+to be seen. We had arrived in the midst of what seemed to be a vast
+white ocean. The intensity of the light created a kind of mirage along
+the surface. The various crests and ranges seemed to rise and fall.
+They became more wave-like than before. Not a living thing was in sight
+save ourselves. Ever and anon a boom, as of thunder, announced the fall
+of an avalanche.
+
+The cry of "Look out!" from a Zaptieh in rear of our party awoke me
+from the contemplation of Nature's marvellous scene. A second later,
+and I found myself on the broad of my back in a snow-drift; the
+animal which I had been riding was pawing the air with his fore-legs,
+like a spaniel the first time he is thrown into the water; before
+any one could reach my horse's head, over he fell—the soft substance
+fortunately saving my body from the effects of the collision. It
+appeared that I had strayed half a yard or so from the track, hence
+this disaster. The Zaptieh in front of our party dismounted, taking
+a wand, six feet in length, from his saddle-bow, he began to advance
+with great caution, and to probe the ground before him at every step he
+took.
+
+"There are deep holes," said Mohammed, wading through the snow to my
+assistance. "If we fall down one of them we shall remain there, and in
+the summer the eagles will pick our bones. It will be better for all of
+us to walk and lead the horses," he continued. "Even then we shall have
+great difficulty in effecting a passage. The chief Zaptieh has been
+saying that it would be better if we were to return to Kotnu and try to
+cross the mountains to-morrow."
+
+The snow had recommenced falling; it was difficult to see what lay
+before us. However, we had accomplished more than half of the day's
+march. In all probability the path would soon become more difficult.
+I determined at all hazards to push on, and the more particularly as
+I had no time to waste, owing to my limited leave of absence. Forward
+we waded through the gradually-rising drifts. Each man followed his
+neighbour in Indian file; presently the leading Zaptieh who was engaged
+in sounding the path before him, buried the six-feet wand in the snow;
+he thrust his elbow down after the stick; there was still no bottom.
+We were off the track. A false step might at any moment send us down
+the chasm. A consultation took place between the Zaptiehs, the head man
+urging forcibly upon our party the necessity of returning. But when we
+faced the other way, the wind cut against our eyes with great violence.
+The particles of snow were so blinding that it was clearly much more
+dangerous to return than to proceed.
+
+"It is our fate!" remarked the chief Zaptieh to the comrade by his side.
+
+"Destruction seize the giaour who may be the cause of all our deaths!"
+said another.
+
+"Let him die of the plague!" added a third.
+
+This rather strong language was uttered in a loud tone, and as if the
+speakers did not care whether their observations met my ear or not.
+
+"I tell you what it is!" I cried rather sternly to my unruly followers,
+and at the same time drawing my revolver; "I cannot reach you with my
+whip; but if you make any more insulting remarks, I shall send a bullet
+in your direction to teach you manners!"
+
+"For the sake of heaven be quiet!" cried Mohammed to the Zaptiehs—for
+he, being directly in the line of fire, did not wish to expose himself
+as a shield to the delinquents.
+
+"There will be no baksheesh unless you are as docile as horses,"
+continued my Turkish servant.
+
+This last remark, combined with my threat—which, it is needless to say,
+I had no intention to put into execution—brought the guides to their
+senses. Presently the stick of the leading Zaptieh struck against the
+track, and, after wading through the snow for some three hours more, we
+descended the side of the mountain. The snow disappeared as we reached
+the vale below, and deep mud, reaching above our knees, covered the
+track before us. It was terrible hard work for the baggage-horses. One
+of them, stumbling, fell prostrate in the mire. No amount of pressure
+would induce him to get up; so, taking off his pack-saddle and dividing
+the baggage as best we could—placing some on the saddle-horses and
+carrying the rest ourselves—we struggled on to a glimmering light which
+marked our quarters for the night.
+
+The village of Yarbasan was reached. Sending back some of the villagers
+for the abandoned animal, I prepared to make myself as comfortable as
+the circumstances would allow.
+
+In the meantime Radford and Mohammed were busily engaged in unloading
+the other baggage-horse. The pack-saddle was too broad to pass
+through the narrow gateway; all the luggage had to be unstrapped in
+the street—such a street as it was too! Imagine a farm-yard of the
+dirtiest description, and without any straw to absorb the filthy
+refuse; but even this does not convey to my own mind the hideous state
+of the road through Yarbasan. The inhabitants possessed many cattle,
+which were each evening driven into the village, so as to be out of
+the way of wolves. It had never occurred to the mind of the oldest
+villager to remove the deposits of their cows and oxen. If a farmer
+wished to pay a visit to a neighbour across the way, he simply tucked
+up his dressing-gown under his arm-pits, took off his slippers, broad
+trousers, and stockings, then, committing himself to Providence, he
+would wade through the dirt to his friend's house.
+
+"Why do you not clean the street?" I inquired of my host, an old Turk,
+who, having just come in from the country, was rubbing his legs with
+some straw before the fire.
+
+"The mud will dry up in the summer months," replied the man; "why
+trouble our heads about it now?"
+
+The inside of the dwelling was not so clean as an average pig-sty.
+Horses, oxen, cows, and sheep were stowed away in the same room as
+ourselves. The Zaptiehs had squatted down in one corner with the host,
+Radford and Mohammed lay stretched out in the middle of the floor.
+
+In a few minutes a woman arrived from some other house in the
+neighbourhood. She was clad in a long strip of cloth, which enveloped
+the upper part of her body; her legs and feet were covered with mud.
+Putting down a large wooden tray, on which were several thin cakes
+of half-cooked paste, and a basinful of oily soup, she retired. The
+proprietor of the house, after offering the dishes to me, returned to
+the Zaptiehs. In the meantime, closing my eyes, I tried to doze off
+to sleep. Presently the gendarmes thought that I was in the land of
+Somnus, and my attention was aroused by the familiar term of "giaour."
+
+"Only think of our being ordered to accompany an infidel to Divriki in
+the winter!" observed the chief of the party.
+
+"Yes, and for him to threaten to whip us!" said the other.
+
+"He would have done it too," said Mohammed, joining in the
+conversation. "My Effendi is not like the Christians about here. He is
+an Inglis!"
+
+"So the Inglis giaours are different to the Armenian giaours?" observed
+the Zaptieh.
+
+"Very different: the Armenians talk, but the Inglis strike. Hush! hush!
+we shall awake him!"—and the conversation gradually died away in a
+whisper.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXI.
+
+     The river Dumrudja—How to cross the river?—A waterfall in the
+     neighbourhood—Thanksgivings—Crossing the mountain—A house
+     of refuge—Divriki—Its appearance—The number of houses—The
+     river Tchalt Tchai—The Captain—His evolutions—Lor! what
+     a cropper—Serve him right, sir—A Astley's performance—My
+     host—Mines in the neighbourhood—People with brains—Houses
+     formerly built of hewn stone—Cause of the decline of
+     the Turkish power—Wives chosen for their looks—How to
+     breed a good foal—A Turk's opinion of European women—They
+     uncover their faces—What ridiculous creatures they must
+     be—The Citadel—The Persians—The Greek fire—The view of
+     Divriki—Sport—A rifle used as a shot gun—One of your
+     best shots—The Kurds—Gunpowder—It is manufactured by the
+     Kurds—Powder sent from Constantinople—Cost to the Government
+     of cartridges—The Pacha of Sivas—His astrologer—Christians
+     who are usurers—Turkish families ruined.
+
+
+The baggage-horse was very little the worse for his long march of ten
+hours on the previous day. Yarbasan was not a lively place to stop at,
+I determined to push on to Divriki.
+
+We passed a range of hills—red-coloured stones lying in profusion along
+the track—and, descending a deep incline, arrived on the banks of the
+river Dumrudja (Kumer Su), a rapid stream, here about fifty yards wide.
+A quantity of wood was floating on the waters. This had been cut in the
+pine-forests higher up the channel, and afterwards been tossed into the
+river to find its way to Divriki. There was no bridge over the stream,
+the water being more than four feet deep. A consultation took place
+amongst the Zaptiehs.
+
+"What are they talking about?" I inquired of Mohammed.
+
+"Effendi, they say that if any one of our horses were to stumble, it
+would be a bad thing for the rider. There is a waterfall a few hundred
+yards down the stream."
+
+The large pieces of timber which were whirling round and round in the
+middle of the river were also a source of anxiety, for should any of
+these huge beams strike a horse, the animal would have been swept off
+his legs for a certainty. After a minute or two spent in consideration,
+the Zaptiehs determined to cross the river, every horseman riding
+abreast of his companion. The stream would then press against the
+outside horse; he, however, would be supported by the one alongside
+him; each animal, in turn, being assisted by the other quadrupeds of
+the party.
+
+It was as much as our horses could do to reach the opposite bank. After
+several thanksgivings to the all-merciful Allah, we once more began
+to climb into the clouds. A dense mist prevailed. Presently almost
+everything was hidden from our view. The snow became deeper and more
+binding; at last the pack-horses came to a standstill. Unloading the
+baggage-animals, we distributed the luggage amidst the saddle-horses,
+and, wading onward, continued our march through the snow. This in some
+places was nearly breast high.
+
+On the summit of the mountain stood a little house built of rocks,
+which were loosely piled the one upon the other; and, resting here for
+a minute or so to recover our breath, I was informed that it had been
+erected by a charitable Turk in Divriki, as a shelter for benighted
+travellers.
+
+"Blessings on his head!" said the Zaptieh who gave me the information.
+"This shelter has saved several lives already. If we had arrived here
+two hours later, it might have been the means of saving our own. The
+wind is rising," he continued, "and the sooner we reach Divriki the
+better."
+
+Presently the little town appears in sight; a thin skirt of
+poplar-trees encircles it as in a frame. An old ruined citadel, perched
+up on a seemingly inaccessible rock, faces us from the opposite side of
+Divriki. A tower on a still higher peak, but communicating by a hidden
+path with the citadel, serves as a place of refuge for the garrison,
+should the first-mentioned stronghold ever be taken by assault. A
+rapid stream—the Tchalt Tchai—runs below the citadel. The town is said
+to contain about 3400 houses, of which 3000 belong to Turks, and the
+remainder to Armenians.
+
+Behind the houses and in the distance were fresh layers of snow-covered
+mountains: the valley in which the town lies had not felt the onslaught
+of winter; it was still covered with deep mud.
+
+One of the Zaptiehs galloped forward with a letter to the governor from
+the Pacha at Sivas. Presently the official rode out to meet me. He was
+accompanied by an escort of gendarmes under the command of a captain.
+The latter, who was mounted upon a spirited little Arab, caracoled his
+steed to and fro—now bending over the saddle and trying to touch the
+ground with his hand—then going through all the motions of throwing
+the Djerrid—evidently wishing to astonish the weak nerves of the
+newly-arrived giaours.
+
+"Lor! what a cropper!"
+
+This remark from my English servant disturbed me in a conversation with
+the governor. On looking round, I saw the captain rolling in the mud.
+His saddle had turned—hence the fall.
+
+"Serve him right, sir!" remarked Radford, catching my eye. "He was a
+spurring his horse that cruel; now pulling him up short on his withers,
+and then loosing him off like an express train. He was trying to show
+us how he could touch the ground. I believe, sir, the fellow thinks
+that we know nothing about riding, and that is why he wanted to do a
+Astley's performance out here in Hasia!"
+
+The Caimacan led the way to a large house, belonging to a Turkish
+gentleman, a personal friend of the Pacha of Sivas. My host received
+me very courteously. He was under the impression that I had come to
+Divriki on some business connected with mines, and seemed surprised
+when he was informed that nothing but a wish to see the country had
+induced me to ride through Anatolia.
+
+"There are mines in the neighbourhood," said the Turk, "and, according
+to tradition, some very rich ones. They were worked several hundred
+years ago—that is, when people lived who had brains—but now, alas!
+every man's head is like a blown-out calf's skin. The people do not
+know how to get at the treasures which lie hid beneath the ground, and,
+even if they did, would be too idle to do so."
+
+I observed that, judging from the ruins about Divriki, all the houses
+must formerly have been built of hewn stone.
+
+"Yes," said my host sorrowfully, "our ancestors were wise men. They
+lived in stone houses, we are satisfied with buildings made of dried
+mud. What do you build your houses of in England?" he inquired.
+
+"Of bricks made of clay burnt in a fire."
+
+"Yes, said the Turk, "you English have advanced. You know more than
+your grandfathers. Why have we not done the same?"
+
+"Probably because you keep your women shut up in a harem, and do not
+educate them," I replied. "Turkish mothers are very ignorant, and,
+consequently, cannot instruct their children. The result is that your
+sons are only half educated. Besides this, you choose your wives—at
+least I am told so—for their looks, and without any regard to their
+attainments."
+
+"The Inglis is quite right," said an old Turk, a friend of my host. "If
+I want to breed a good foal, I am as particular about the mare as the
+sire. He means that we leave the mares out of the question, and then
+complain that our stock is not so good as that of other nations."
+
+"But hundreds of years ago our women knew quite as much as the Frank
+women," observed my host.
+
+"Yes," replied his companion, "and then we could hold our own against
+the Franks. But the Frank women have been educated since those times;
+the Effendi thinks that we ought to educate our wives in the same way."
+
+"It would be difficult to do so," said the Turk coldly. "Their women
+uncover their faces; I have heard that some of them declare that they
+are the equals of their husbands. What ridiculous creatures they must
+be," he continued, "not at once to accept that inferior position which
+Allah in His wisdom has awarded to them!"
+
+The following day I walked to the citadel, accompanied by my host.
+The building had been erected 600 years ago, as a defence against the
+Persians, who at that time frequently made encroachments into this part
+of Turkey. The solid masonry, which in many places had been allowed to
+go to ruin, showed that the walls had been originally built with great
+care. Two thousand men could have been quartered in the citadel, which
+now, uninhabited save by dogs and lizards, is rapidly succumbing to
+the elements. Convenient embrasures had been left on that side of the
+rampart which was easiest to assault; through them the defenders could
+pour down the celebrated Greek fire so much used in the middle ages.
+
+The river, which ran below the citadel, separated us from the tower
+which was used as a final place of retreat should the citadel be
+stormed. On my asking how the garrison could cross the water, there
+being no bridge in the vicinity, I was informed that a subterranean
+passage led beneath the stream to the other bank, and, then entering
+the side of the rock, a winding staircase gave access to the tower.
+The defenders were thus able to retreat from the citadel without their
+movements being seen by the enemy.
+
+It was a glorious afternoon. The view of Divriki, of its numerous
+minarets and domes, lying as it were in miniature below us, was very
+lovely. Lofty mountains, in winter garb, surrounded the suburbs on
+every side; and the silvery river, threading its way through the more
+distant quarters of the town, bubbled and splashed against the rocks
+and boulders. The murmur of the waters was blended with the hum of the
+population. The cries of the herdsmen mingled ever and anon with the
+report of a fire-arm in the distance.
+
+"Is there much game in the neighbourhood?" I inquired of my companion,
+who, leaning against one of the battlements in the tower, was straining
+his eyes in the direction of the shot.
+
+"No. A few wild goats are sometimes to be seen on the rocks. The
+sportsman, whoever he is, has probably managed to come upon some of
+them unawares. I have a beautiful gun," he continued; "I will show it
+you afterwards."
+
+"Is it for partridges or for big game?" I asked.
+
+"For big game. It is rifled," he replied, "but I often load it with
+shot, and shoot at partridges, that is when they are all huddled
+together on the ground. Do you shoot much in your country with ball?"
+
+"Yes; there is a great meeting once a year near London. All the best
+marksmen attend, and the Queen gives a prize to the best shot."
+
+"Does she give many paras?"
+
+"A great many—several hundred liras."
+
+"Now could one of your best shots hit that cow?" pointing to an animal
+about 400 yards distant.
+
+"Yes."
+
+"What a marvel!" said the Turk. "Even the Kurds could not do that, and
+they shoot very well. They manufacture their own powder," he continued,
+"and very good powder it is too. The powder sold by the permission
+of our Government is very bad and dear; besides that, a man is only
+permitted to purchase a very small quantity at a time. There is plenty
+of sulphur, saltpetre, and charcoal in the mountains, and the Kurds
+supply themselves."
+
+I afterwards learnt that all the powder which is furnished to the
+troops in Asia Minor is sent from Constantinople. There is no gunpowder
+manufactory in this part of Asia Minor. It is a great pity that the
+Turks have not long ago started an arsenal in the neighbourhood of
+Erzingan, which could have supplied the troops on the Turko-Russian
+frontier with cartridges and small-arms. As it is, every cartridge
+served out to a soldier before Kars costs the Government fifty per
+cent in addition to its original cost, owing to the difficulties of
+transport.
+
+"The Pacha at Sivas wrote to me to make your stay at Divriki as
+pleasant as I could," presently remarked my companion.
+
+"How did you like him?" observed an Armenian who now joined us.
+
+"Very much."
+
+"He is civil to all Europeans," continued the Armenian. "Probably
+he took a fancy to you because his astrologer had worked out your
+horoscope, and had reported favourably upon it."
+
+"You do not mean to say that the Pacha believes in such things?" I
+observed.
+
+"Yes; he never makes a journey without first of all consulting his
+astrologer."
+
+There was no very active trade in Divriki. The Armenians supplied
+the people of the town with the few goods which they might require at
+exorbitant prices.
+
+In addition to this, most of the Christians were usurers. Any
+Mohammedan who chanced to require a loan had to pay his Armenian
+fellow-citizen a very high rate of interest. However, in this respect,
+Divriki is not an exception to the towns in Anatolia, and in almost
+every district which I visited I found that the leading Christians
+in the community had made their money by usurious dealings. In some
+instances, old Turkish families had been entirely ruined, their
+descendants were lying in gaol at the suit of Armenian money-lenders.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXII.
+
+     Usury laws in Turkey—An Armenian in prison for debt—The
+     Caimacan—The Turkish creditor—Hanistan Ereek's father—A
+     Government cannot be imprisoned for debt—The redif
+     soldiers—Their unwillingness to serve—The Armenians not to be
+     trusted—Yanoot—A picture of desolation—A Jordan road—Turkish
+     soldiers do not grumble—Arabkir—A silk-merchant—My host—His
+     library—Pretty covers—A Russian servant—He was taken prisoner
+     during the Crimean war.
+
+
+I was now to learn that the usury laws in Turkey are also used against
+the Christians. On returning to my house, a servant informed me that an
+Armenian was downstairs, and wished to see me.
+
+He had been in Paris, and could speak a little French. This he so
+interlarded with Turkish that it was rather difficult to follow him.
+The man's name was Hanistan Ereek. At length I discovered that, twelve
+years ago, his father had borrowed 300 piastres from a Turk. Soon
+afterwards the father died, and the son, leaving Divriki without paying
+the debt, had gone to Europe. On his return, the creditor had him
+arrested for the sum of 6000 piastres. This Hanistan Ereek refused to
+pay; he had been imprisoned for three months in consequence.
+
+The Caimacan was in the room at the time the man made his complaint.
+
+"It seems a hard case," I remarked.
+
+"It is our law," was the reply; "if he had been a Turk, the same thing
+would have happened."
+
+"No, it would not have happened! 300 piastres could never have amounted
+to 6000 piastres!" cried the Armenian indignantly.
+
+It appeared that the case was one of hard swearing. The Turkish
+creditor had produced a piece of paper, on which was written that
+he had lent a larger amount than 300 piastres to Hanistan Ereek's
+father—the document in question bearing the latter's signature. This
+the son swore was a forgery. However, the Turk had been believed, and
+the Armenian had been sent to prison.
+
+"What would have been done if this case had happened in your country?"
+asked the Caimacan; "would you not have put the man in prison for
+debt?"
+
+"No; a son is not liable for his father's debts."
+
+"Well, each country has its own laws, which doubtless are good for the
+respective inhabitants," observed the governor; "but if my father had
+died owing a sum of money, I should have thought that it was my duty to
+pay it."
+
+"A very proper resolution," I remarked; "but supposing that a
+Government has contracted a debt, do you not think that its successors
+are bound to pay the interest of the loan?"
+
+The Caimacan stroked his beard and looked at the Cadi, who presently
+answered,—
+
+"We could not put a Government in prison."
+
+"No," I observed, "but your nation owes my nation more than a hundred
+millions of liras, and not only you do not pay us any interest, but you
+have even proposed to repudiate the debt altogether!"
+
+"How can we pay?" said the Cadi; "we have no gold, only caime, and your
+people will not take that. When the Russians leave us alone, then we
+shall be able to pay."
+
+"And in the meantime I suppose I am to go back to prison?" said the
+Armenian.
+
+"We shall see," said the Caimacan gravely; "the law must be carried
+out."
+
+I have, perhaps, given the above case more prominence than it deserves,
+but I have done so because in this instance the governor of Divriki
+and a Christian were confronted in my presence, and the Armenian made
+his complaint without the slightest hesitation or fear. Now if the
+Christians had been so ill-treated as some of their co-religionists
+would have had me believe Hanistan Ereek would not have been likely to
+have dared to come forward and find fault with the Cadi of his town,
+who had adjudicated upon the matter.
+
+According to the governor, the people in his district had not shown
+much readiness to go to the war. In some of the villages, the redif
+soldiery were very reluctant to leave their homes, and could only be
+made to do so by the Zaptiehs of the province, who were most of them
+engaged at present in this duty.
+
+"Why do you not give the Armenians arms?" I inquired.
+
+"They would turn them against us, and join the Russians," was the
+governor's reply. "In some districts which are very near Russia, and
+where the Armenians have the opportunity of seeing the Russians as
+they are, and not as they pretend to be, the Christians prefer being
+under the Turkish rule; but the Armenians in our central provinces are
+constantly being tampered with by Russian agents. If we were to give
+the Christians arms, Allah only knows what would take place!"
+
+I left Divriki at daybreak the following morning, and continued the
+march towards Arabkir.
+
+We ascended once more into the clouds, and, after a four hours' ride,
+halted to bait our horses at the village of Yanoot—if, indeed, it
+deserves the name of village—for it consists of a few huts, and about
+twenty-five inhabitants make up the entire population.
+
+Now a curious phenomenon presented itself before us. We were passing
+a chain of hills which traversed our track from north to south. The
+northern side of every height was covered with deep snow, on the
+southern declivities some igneous rocks were exposed to view and glared
+in the sun. Here the rays were so fierce that not only there was no
+snow, but the weather became oppressively warm. A few hundred yards
+further, and winter attacked us again in all its rigour. Our horses
+were tried to their utmost in forcing a way before them.
+
+The road became very rugged. An immense quantity of loose sharp pebbles
+were lying on the track. Our horses could not see them and were
+constantly falling on their knees. Not a village or solitary house
+was met with during our march. It was a picture of desolation. A few
+magpies, which from time to time flew mournfully across the path, were
+the only living things besides ourselves.
+
+"Well, sir, this is a Jordan of a road," remarked my servant Radford,
+referring to some popular song, as the horse he rode fell down for the
+fifth time that morning. "That cemetery in Constantinople, where we
+tried the 'osses, was a bad place for riding, but it was nothing to
+this. Mohammed, he don't seem to take any account of it whatever. I
+never see such fellows as these Turks; they don't seem to be able to
+muster a grumble amongst them, no matter what they may have to undergo!
+Why, sir, some of them soldiers as we saw at Sivas had not received
+a day's pay for twenty-five months, and they seemed quite content
+and happy like; whilst, as for rations, it is true that the men fill
+themselves to bursting when they have the chance, but when they have
+to go without their grub they don't grumble! I wonder, sir, what our
+soldiers at Aldershot would say if they had not received a ha'p'orth
+of pay for two years, and had to march sometimes from morning to night,
+with nothing inside them save a whiff or so of tobacco?"
+
+Radford was right in his remark about the track being a Jordan
+road—that is, if a Jordan road is the quintessence of everything that
+is stony and disagreeable. We had to lead our horses. Hour after hour
+sped by; we still seemed to be no nearer to any signs of Arabkir. Now
+we were up to our waists in snow and quagmire, and then we were lying
+between our horses' heels, the result of a slip from some half-hidden
+boulder.
+
+At last we arrived at a spot close to the town. Here the rocks were of
+a crimson hue, their sides were covered with pebbles of ebon blackness.
+We mounted our horses, and, riding along a precipice-bounded path which
+leads into the long straggling city, presently halted at the house of
+an Armenian gentleman, who was kind enough to offer us a lodging for
+the night.
+
+My host was a silk-merchant. He had started in business a very few
+years previous. This district being suitable for breeding silk-worms,
+he had speedily amassed a fortune. He was now one of the wealthiest
+men in the province, and not only supplied the Arabkir district with
+textures of his manufacture, but sent them by caravans to the limits
+of Asia Minor. He was very much respected by the Mohammedans in the
+town, and was on the best of terms with the Caimacan. The latter, when
+he heard of my arrival, called, and, after salaaming my host, told him
+that he should stay to dinner.
+
+The apartment set aside for my use was hung round with engravings of
+all the sovereigns in Europe. A book-shelf in one corner was filled
+with French books, none of which my host could read.
+
+"Do you know French?" I inquired.
+
+"No!"
+
+"Then what is the good of those volumes to you?"
+
+"I am sorry for my ignorance," replied the man, "but I mean to have
+my child sent to Constantinople; there he shall learn French, and
+afterwards he will be able to read to me what is inside these books.
+Pretty covers, are they not?" he continued, pointing to the binding. "I
+bought them when I was residing at Erzeroum, and the merchant told me
+that they were full of wisdom. I have a European servant," he added.
+
+"A Frenchman?"
+
+"No, a Russian."
+
+"A Russian!"
+
+"Yes. You may well be surprised," he said, "for there is not much love
+lost between the Russians and ourselves. This man was taken prisoner
+during the Crimean war. When it was over he preferred remaining with us
+to returning to his own country."
+
+
+END OF VOL. I.
+
+
+
+
+ERRATA.
+
+VOL. I.
+
+
+     Page 24, last line, _for_ Appendix A. _read_ Appendix A.
+              (I., II., III.), vol. ii. pp. 323-329.
+
+       "  27, line 8, _for_ Kara Bourna _read_ Kara Bournu.
+
+       "  31, line 11, _for_ Kara Bourna _read_ Kara Bournu.
+
+       "  33, last line, _for_ Appendix B. _read_ Appendix B.
+              (XVI., XVII.), vol. ii. pp. 388-399.
+
+
+
+
+FOOTNOTES
+
+
+     [1] Buckinghamshire.
+
+     [2] _Vide_ Correspondence of the late Duke of Wellington,
+     letter to the Earl of Aberdeen, _dated_ Walmer Castle, July
+     29th, 1829.
+
+     [3] Probably referring to the treatment of the people
+     professing the United Greek faith. See Appendix A. (I., II.,
+     III.), vol. ii. pp. 323-329.
+
+     [4] See Appendix B. (XVI., XVII.), vol. ii. pp. 388-399,
+     on the defence of Constantinople.
+
+     [5] These statements of the Pacha are confirmed to some
+     extent by two Official Reports.—_See_ Appendices IV. and V.
+     vol. ii. pp. 337, 344.
+
+     [6] For routes which cross the Sakaria, and traverse Asia
+     Minor, see Appendix XIV. vol. ii. pp. 368, 370.
+
+     [7] Opinions are divided about this: some people assuring me
+     that it happened at Ayash, others at Istanos.
+
+     [8] For military importance of this district, see Appendix
+     XIV. vol. ii. p. 370.
+
+     [9] This is refuted by an Official despatch recently received
+     from H.M.'s Ambassador at Constantinople, see Appendix IV.
+     vol. ii. p. 342.
+
+     [11] This is authenticated to a great extent by an Official
+     Despatch. See Appendix V. vol. ii. p. 344.
+
+     [12] The Armenian women have more liberty in Angora than in
+     many other towns in Asia Minor.
+
+     [13] For treatment of the Turkomans by the Russian soldiers,
+     I refer the reader to Mr. Schuyler's highly interesting work,
+     "Turkistan."
+
+     [14] For importance of Yuzgat from a military point of view,
+     see Appendix XIV. vol. ii. p. 370.
+
+     [15] Whilst writing these lines I have come across some
+     verses written by a Bishop who calls himself a Christian, and
+     an answer to them by an American writer. The Bishop seems to
+     have forgotten that his mission is one of peace. His verses
+     will be found in Appendix XI. vol. ii. pp. 361, 362.
+
+     [16] This statement, coming from a Circassian, may be deemed
+     by some people in England, like the Right Hon. Robert
+     Lowe, M.P., who believe that Russia is the protector of
+     the unprotected, and the refuge of those who have no other
+     refuge, as hardly worthy of credence. Unfortunately for
+     humanity it is confirmed, so far as the massacre of pregnant
+     women and of children is concerned, by the official report of
+     a British Consul. See Appendix VII. vol. ii. p. 349.
+
+     [17] For statement made by Circassians on this subject, see
+     Appendix X. vol. ii. p. 353.
+
+     [18] I wrote this anecdote down at the time. It is given
+     precisely as the Armenian narrated the story. I have not
+     been able to find a corroboration of the statement in any
+     historical document. Very little is known of what took place
+     during this war.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of On Horseback Through Asia Minor,
+Volume 1 of 2, by Fred Burnaby
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of On Horseback Through Asia Minor, Volume 1
+of 2, by Fred Burnaby
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
+most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
+whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
+of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
+www.gutenberg.org.  If you are not located in the United States, you'll
+have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using
+this ebook.
+
+
+
+Title: On Horseback Through Asia Minor, Volume 1 of 2
+
+Author: Fred Burnaby
+
+Release Date: January 25, 2019 [EBook #58768]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="tnbox">
+<p class="center">
+<b>Transcriber's Note:</b>
+</p>
+<p>
+  Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have
+  been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.
+</p>
+<p>
+The <a href="#Errata">Errata</a> listed at the end of the volume have been corrected in the text.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a name="FN_10" id="FN_10"></a><a href="#FA_10">Footnote 10</a> is missing.
+</p>
+<p>  This volume contains references to <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/58738/58738-h/58738-h.htm">Volume I.</a> of this work.</p>
+<p> It can be
+  found at http://www.gutenberg.org/files/58738/58738-h/58738-h.htm.
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<h1>
+ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR.
+</h1>
+<p class="center b12">
+VOL. I.
+</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p class="center">
+LONDON:<br />
+GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS,<br />
+ST. JOHN'S SQUARE.
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<a name="i-006" id="i-006"></a>
+<img src="images/i-006.jpg" width="466" height="550" alt="" />
+<p class="caption"><i>Photographed from Life by</i> <span class='smcap'>Lock and Whitfield</span>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p class="center spaced b20" >
+ON HORSEBACK THROUGH
+<br />
+ASIA MINOR.
+</p>
+
+<p class="center spaced spaced_above">
+BY
+<br />
+<span class="b13">CAPTAIN FRED BURNABY,</span>
+<br />
+AUTHOR OF "A RIDE TO KHIVA."
+</p>
+
+<p class="center spaced_above">
+<i>WITH PORTRAIT AND MAPS.</i>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center spaced spaced_above">
+IN TWO VOLUMES.
+<br />
+<span class="b12">VOL. I.</span>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center spaced_above">
+London:<br />
+SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, &amp; RIVINGTON,<br />
+CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET.<br />
+1877.
+</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+[<i>All rights reserved.</i>]
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p>
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_v' name='Page_v' href='#Page_v'>v</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<h2>
+PREFACE.
+</h2>
+
+<p>
+It has been said that a man often writes his book
+first, his preface last. The author of this work is
+no exception to the general rule. These volumes
+contain an account of a journey on horseback
+through Asia Minor. I was five months in that
+country, and traversed a district extending
+over 2000 miles. My limited leave of absence
+prevented me from staying more than a few
+days at the important towns which lay on the
+route.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Although unable to learn so much as was to be
+desired of the ways and mode of life of the various
+inhabitants of Anatolia, I had the opportunity of
+talking to every class of society with reference to
+the questions of the day—the Conference, and
+the impending war with Russia. Pachas, farmers,
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_vi' name='Page_vi' href='#Page_vi'>vi</a></span>
+peasants, all of them had something to say about
+these subjects.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I met people of many different races: Turks,
+Armenians, Greeks, Turkomans, Circassians,
+Kurds, and Persians. They almost invariably
+received me very hospitably.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The remarks which were made by the Mohammedans
+about the Christians, and by the Armenians
+about the Turks and Russians, sometimes
+interested me. I have thought that they might
+interest the public.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The impression formed in my own mind as to
+the probable result of the war between Russia and
+Turkey was decidedly unfavourable to the latter
+power. Since this work has been written the
+soldiers of the Crescent have gallantly withstood
+their foe. My reasons for arriving at the above-mentioned
+opinion will be found in these
+volumes. They merely contain a sort of verbal
+photograph—if the reader will allow me to use
+the expression—of what I saw and heard during
+the journey.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A few official reports, referring to the treatment
+of the members of the United Greek Christians
+by the Russian authorities will be seen in the
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_vii' name='Page_vii' href='#Page_vii'>vii</a></span>
+Appendices, and amongst other matter a document
+brought to England by two Circassian Chiefs.
+It relates to the invasion of Circassia by the
+Russians. There are also some march routes
+and descriptions of various districts, taken and
+translated from different military works.
+</p>
+
+<p class="signature">
+THE AUTHOR.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class='smcap'>Somerby Hall, Leicestershire</span>,<br />
+<span class="i3"><i>September, 1877</i>.</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_viii' name='Page_viii' href='#Page_viii'></a></span>
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_ix' name='Page_ix' href='#Page_ix'>ix</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2>
+INTRODUCTION.
+</h2>
+
+<p>
+It was the autumn of 1876: I had not as yet
+determined where to spend my winter leave of
+absence. There was a great deal of excitement in
+England; the news of some terrible massacres in
+Bulgaria had thoroughly aroused the public. The
+indignation against the perpetrators of these
+awful crimes became still more violent, when it
+was remembered that the Turkish Government
+had repudiated its loans, and that more than a
+hundred millions sterling had gone for ever from
+the pockets of the British tax-payer. This was
+very annoying.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We were on the eve of an important election.<a name='FA_1' id='FA_1' href='#FN_1' class='fnanchor'>[1]</a>
+Some people declared that our Government might
+have prevented the massacres in Bulgaria; others,
+that an ostentatious protection had been shown to
+Turkey, and that Europe had been wantonly disturbed
+through the instrumentality of our Ministry.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_x' name='Page_x' href='#Page_x'>x</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Illustrious statesmen, who were solacing themselves
+after the toils of the session, by meandering
+through the rural districts on bicycles, or by
+felling timber in sylvan groves, hurried up to
+town.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Two letters appeared in the columns of the
+leading journal signed by gentlemen belonging to
+the Church of England, saying that they had seen
+Christians impaled by the Turks.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Pamphlets were written and speeches made in
+which the subjects of the Sultan were held
+up to universal execration. Several distinguished
+Russians, who happened at that time to be in
+England, threw oil on the flames which had been
+kindled.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Ladies, like Madame de Lievens, of whom the
+late Duke of Wellington wrote,<a name='FA_2' id='FA_2' href='#FN_2' class='fnanchor'>[2]</a> went from <i>salon</i>
+to <i>salon</i> and extolled the Christian motives of the
+Tzar. This feminine eloquence proved too much
+for a few of our legislators, who, like Lord Grey
+in the year 1829, entertained some old opposition
+opinions of Mr. Fox's, that "the Turks ought to
+be driven out of Europe."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was difficult to arrive at the truth amidst all
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xi' name='Page_xi' href='#Page_xi'>xi</a></span>
+the turmoil which prevailed. Were the Turks
+such awful scoundrels? Had the reverend gentlemen,
+to whom I have already alluded, really seen
+Christians impaled, or were these clergymen under
+the influence of a hallucination? There was one
+way to satisfy my own mind as to whether the
+subjects of the Porte were so cruel as they had
+been described. I determined to travel in Asia
+Minor; for there I should be with Turks who are
+far removed from any European supervision.
+Should I not behold Christians impaled and wriggling
+like worms on hooks in every high road
+of Armenia, or find an Inquisition and a weekly
+<i>auto da fé</i> the amusement of the Mohammedans at
+Van?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Judging from the pamphlets which were continually
+being written about the inhuman nature
+of the Turks, this was not at all improbable. I
+should also have the opportunity of seeing something
+of the country between the Russo-Turkish
+frontier and Scutari.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was the beginning of November. My leave
+of absence would commence towards the middle
+of the month. It was time to make preparations
+for the journey. On this occasion I determined
+to take an English servant, a faithful fellow, who
+had been with me in many parts of the world.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xii' name='Page_xii' href='#Page_xii'>xii</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Before leaving London I thought that it might
+be as well to write to the Turkish Ambassador,
+and ask him if there would be any objection on
+the part of the authorities in Constantinople to
+my proposed journey in Asia Minor, at the same
+time saying that in the event of my obtaining the
+permission to travel in Anatolia, I should be
+much obliged to His Excellency if he could supply
+me with the requisite passport. To this letter I
+received, by return of post, the most courteous
+reply. I was informed that every Englishman
+could travel where he liked in the Turkish Empire,
+and that nothing was required but the ordinary
+foreign office passport, one of which His Excellency
+enclosed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the meantime I read all the books I could
+find which treated of Asia Minor. According to
+the works of those travellers who have been to
+Armenia in the winter, the cold would be very
+great. Indeed Tournefort found the wells in
+Erzeroum frozen over in July. Milner in his
+"History of the Turkish Empire," remarks of the
+mountainous district in Armenia, "Throughout
+this high region no one thinks, except under most
+urgent necessity, of travelling for eight months in
+the year, owing to the snow, ice, and intense
+cold."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xiii' name='Page_xiii' href='#Page_xiii'>xiii</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Regimental duty detained me in England during
+the summer. I could only avail myself of the
+winter for my journey. I had experienced the
+cold of the Kirghiz steppes in December and
+January, 1876, and was of opinion that the clothes
+which would keep a man alive in the deserts of
+Tartary, would more than protect him against the
+climate of Kurdistan. For shooting purposes I
+determined to take a little single Express rifle,
+made by Henry, and a No. 12 smooth-bore. A
+small stock of medicines was put in my saddle-bags
+in the event of any illness on the road.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+My arrangements were completed. I was
+ready to start.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xiv' name='Page_xiv' href='#Page_xiv'></a></span>
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xv' name='Page_xv' href='#Page_xv'>xv</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2>
+CONTENTS.
+</h2>
+
+<hr class="l15" />
+
+<table summary="Table of Contents">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER I.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr" colspan="2">&nbsp;<span class="s08">PAGE</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">The start—Cartridges and medicine bottles—The obese
+Englishman and the Yankee's cook—The refreshment-room
+at Dijon—"Ne vous pressez pas, messieurs"—Fellow-passengers—The
+silk-merchant—The
+pretty Greek girl who was a friend of Madame
+Ignatieff—The doctor—The respective merits of
+medicine and Christianity—The Bay of Smyrna—The
+Greek ladies are not shy—Come along and
+smoke a Nargileh—A café in Smyrna—The Italian
+prima donna—The Christians and Turks in Smyrna—Newspapers
+believed to be in Russian pay—The
+Pacha's seraglio—A comely dame—Five hundred
+recruits—A doleful melody—To die for the sake of
+Islam—People so silly as to think that Gortschakoff
+wishes for peace—The fat woman—The eunuch in
+difficulties</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">CHAPTER II.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">The Bosphorus—The commissionnaires—Nothing like the
+Hôtel de Luxembourg—Perdrix aux truffes—Baksheesh—Officials
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xvi' name='Page_xvi' href='#Page_xvi'>xvi</a></span>
+in the custom-house—A rickety old
+carriage—A Turkish Café Chantant—A vocalist—Sultan
+Abdul Aziz—His kismet—We are all under
+the influence of destiny—"Great Sultan, rest in
+peace!"—Did Sultan Abdul Aziz really kill himself?—The
+popular belief—He had agreed to sell the fleet
+to Russia—A Russian force to garrison Constantinople—Two
+of the secret police—The other verse—The
+audience—Too much liberty in Constantinople—English
+newspapers, hostile to Turkey, sold at
+every bookstall—An English army of occupation in
+Constantinople—No gold; nothing but paper—Trade
+paralyzed—In search of a servant—A Mohammedan
+servant; his costume—A coachman to a Pacha—Buffaloes
+as a means of locomotion—Mr. Schuyler—Mr.
+Gallenga—Our consul at Belgrade—Mr. Sala—The
+stations along the Russian line crowded with
+troops—Mr. McGahan very popular with the Christians—The
+Turkish newspapers—A ruse on the part
+of England—An English officer—A strategic position—Some
+influential Armenians—"We have no wish
+to become Russian subjects"—The Catholics in
+Poland—Similar treatment required for all sects—The
+word of a Christian in a court of law—An Armenian
+priest—From Scutari to Kars—The road
+blocked by snow—The dread of being seen speaking
+to a European  </td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_12">12</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER III.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+The porter at the hotel—A little persuasive force—Trains
+in Turkey are not very punctual—Two Englishmen—Snipe-shooting—The
+railroad takes a circuitous
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xvii' name='Page_xvii' href='#Page_xvii'>xvii</a></span>
+course—Krupp guns—The Christians are too
+much for the Turks in a bargain—Hadem Kui—No
+horse waiting—The station-master—A lanky, overgrown
+lad—Buyuk Checkmedge and Kara Bournu—A
+branch railway required—A station-master's
+salary—The horse—Attacked by a dog—The
+defence of Constantinople—A song in which the
+Turks delighted—Good-looking Hungarian girls—The
+handsome Italian—"I am not a barrel"—The
+song about the Turcos—Spontaneous combustion—A
+special Correspondent—Algeria is not Turkey, but
+it does not much signify</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_27">27</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER IV.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+Osman—Five horses for sale—An industrious man—A
+cemetery—A wall-eyed Turk—A little black—"He
+ain't got no shoulders"—A horse with a sore back—A
+roarer—The blind beggars hear him coming—A
+Turkish horseshoe—Provisions for the journey—A
+prince belonging to the Russian Embassy in the hospital—A
+prince a boot-cleaner—Osman's relatives—The
+Hôtel Royal—A stirrup-cup—Osman's religious
+scruples—The boat for Scutari—Shipping our horses—Jealous
+husbands—A Turk's seraglio—Was it a
+Torpedo?—The panels of the Bey's carriage—An explosion
+of cartridges—Readjusting the luggage—A
+torrent of expletives</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_39">39</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER V.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+Scutari—The resting-place of departed Turks—A
+frightened horse—Obadiah—Tea and sugar in the
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xviii' name='Page_xviii' href='#Page_xviii'>xviii</a></span>
+mud—A <i>rahvan</i>, or ambler—A runaway steed—Osman
+always praying whenever there is work to be
+done—The  grave-digger—The Hammall—Radford—Through
+the swamp—The Khan at Moltape—A
+<i>mungo</i></td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_54">54</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER VI.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+The proprietor of the establishment—<i>Lingua franca</i>—Gold,
+not paper—Gold a charm to the Greek—No
+rooms—The Onbashee—His costume—The guard-house—A
+queer place—"<i>At gitdi!</i> the horse has
+gone!"—The Pacha at Scutari—The corporal's demeanour
+when offered a  tip—A beautiful country—The
+bay of Ismid—A goose plump as a Georgian
+woman—A Zaptieh—The chief of the telegraph
+department in Ismid—A grievance—The appearance
+of Ismid—Washing-day—The Pacha of Ismid—Mr.
+Gladstone—"Gladstone is what you call a Liberal,
+is he not?"—The Turkish debt—Russian agents
+bring about the massacres of Christians</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_63">63</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER VII.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+An Armenian Bishop—An economical refreshment—Ramazan—Smoking
+in the streets—The Turkish
+Government is not so bad—The Koran and a Christian
+witness—A telegram from the Pacha at Scutari—A
+post-horse to Sabanja—Two Zaptieh—Turkish
+swords—A horse lost—Four feet of mud—An ox-cart
+upset in the mud—Woe-begone drivers—A
+priest during the Carlist war—Turks and Christians
+have an extreme dislike to the dread ordeal—Circassian
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xix' name='Page_xix' href='#Page_xix'>xix</a></span>
+Bashi Bazouks—Women ravished and then
+butchered by the Russians—Sabanja—Scenery—There
+was to have been a railway—A mule under
+difficulties</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER VIII.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+Camels—The Sakaria—Geiweh—Yakoob Khan—Kashgar—The
+Greeks in league with the Tzar—The Kara
+Su—A strategic position—Terekli—Bashi Bazouks
+firing at a target—The river Goonook—A black
+slave—Gondokoro—Abou Saood—How to become
+rich—Set a slave to catch a slave—<i>Sharab</i> makes
+one gay—Mudurlu—Absence of shops—<i><span lang="fr_FR">Toujours
+poulet</span></i>—English manufactures in Anatolia—A Circassian
+Zaptieh—A precipice—A baggage-horse
+upset</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_86">86</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER IX.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+Nalihan—Armenian, Turkish, and Circassian visitors—The
+state of the roads—Will there be war?—The
+Imaum—The Servians—A bellicose old farmer—The
+Armenians friends with the Russians—Sunnites
+and Shiites—Scenery near Nalihan—Alatai river—A
+Turkish counterpane—Turkish beds—Osman's <i>Yorgan</i>—Osman's
+wife—A girl with eyes like a hare,
+and plump as a turkey—The farmer's nuptial couch—An
+uncultivated district—An old Khan—A refuge
+for travellers—An invalid soldier—A Christian would
+have let me die like a dog—The votaries of Christianity
+in the East</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_95">95</a><span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xx' name='Page_xx' href='#Page_xx'>xx</a></span>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER X.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+Radford and Osman—The quarrel—Do the Roossians kiss
+each other?—Bei Bazar—The pig tobacco—Osman's
+honesty—Forage for five horses—It is a good sign in
+a horse to be always hungry—The Tchechmet river—The
+Mudir at Istanos—The Cadi's mule—The
+tradition about Istanos—Caverns formerly inhabited
+by marauders—A chasm—The entrance to the
+caverns—A levee of the inhabitants—No newspapers
+in the villages—An Armenian priest—The furniture
+of the room—Has the Conference commenced?—What
+is it all about?—Russia is strong and we are
+weak—The other Powers are afraid of Russia—Will
+England be our ally?—Are the Christians tortured?—Here
+we get on very well with the Mussulmans—The
+pack-saddle</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_104">104</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER XI.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+One lives and learns even from Turks—The Mudir's
+two sons—They like your nation—They remember
+the Crimean War—Suleiman Effendi—The Vice-Consul—The
+town of Angora was to be illuminated—The
+telegram about the Constitution—What does
+the Constitution mean?—Suleiman Effendi on education,
+and on religious matters—So many roads to
+heaven—American missionaries—The massacres in
+Bulgaria—The intrigues of Russia—The Circassians
+hate the Russians—Circassian women butchered and
+ravished by the Russians—An English priest—The
+impalement story—The Vice-Consul's wife—A piano
+in Angora—Turkish ladies—A visit to the Pacha—The
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xxi' name='Page_xxi' href='#Page_xxi'>xxi</a></span>
+audience-room—The Pacha's son—Only one
+cannon in Angora—Twenty-five thousand men gone
+to the war—The clerk—The Bey's library—The new
+Constitution—The Bey's opinion about it—Turkey
+requires roads and railways—The only carriage in
+Angora</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_116">116</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER XII.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+The Pacha's carriage—The coachman an Irishman—Christmas
+day in Angora—The celebrities of the town—A
+society of thieves—Fire in Sivrisa—The Turks
+and the Armenians—So-called fanaticism—Ten
+Pachas in Angora in four years—Cases of litigation—Arrears—The
+firman of November, 1875—The famine
+in Angora—Deaths during the famine—The goats died—A
+Mohammedan divine—The Russian Ambassador
+and the secret societies—The English newspapers
+and the Bulgarian atrocities—A Turk values his nose
+quite as much as a Christian—Suleiman Effendi's
+wife—The Turkish law about property—A dinner
+with a Turkish gentleman—A mixture of nationalities—My
+host and his digestion—Spirits refresh
+the stomach—The Prophet and the old woman in
+Mecca—There are no old women in heaven</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_129">129</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER XIII.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+The band—Turkish melodies—Turkish music like a Turkish
+dinner; it is a series of surprises—Turkish etiquette
+at dinner—The pack-horse is lame—The people
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xxii' name='Page_xxii' href='#Page_xxii'>xxii</a></span>
+ask for many liras—The Postmaster is in bed—The
+chief of the police—Horse-copers in Aleppo—The
+fair sex in that city—A test for lovers—We
+burn our fingers soon enough after marriage—Domestic
+life in the harems in Angora—The immorality
+in Yuzgat—Mr. Gasparini—Turkish hospitality—Armenians
+dress like Turks—Christian women—Great
+harmony between Turks and Christians—Armenian
+testimony doubtful—The prison at Sivas—Hearsay
+evidence—A Turkish veterinary surgeon—Horse-dealers—Two
+pounds offered for the horse—History
+of the Ottoman Empire—The Bey's present—Generosity
+of the Turks—The devil is not so black
+as he is painted</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_139">139</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER XIV.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+Leave Angora—The Effendi wants a turkey—A very old
+cock—The cooking-pot—An Armenian woman on
+horseback—Baggage upset in the river—Cartridges
+in the water—Osman castigating the delinquent—Delayed
+on the road—Asra Yuzgat—How the inhabitants
+build their houses—The Caimacan—His
+house—His servants undress him—He goes to bed—All
+the cartridges spoiled</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_153">153</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER XV.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+The Kizil Ermak—No bridge in the neighbourhood—How
+to cross the river—The triangular-shaped barge—The
+current—Can my brother swim?—How to embark
+the horses—Osman's expostulation—Bandaging
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xxiii' name='Page_xxiii' href='#Page_xxiii'>xxiii</a></span>
+the horse's eyes—Yakshagan—Fresh post-horses—An
+uncivil official—Madeh—Silver-mines—Water in the
+pits—Proper machinery wanted—Engineers required—Kowakoli—Vines—How
+to preserve grapes—Sugar
+very dear—A farmer—The Angora famine—The
+late Sultan—Russian assessors—We do not wish
+to be tortured to change our religion—Allah is
+always on the side of justice—Sekili—The pace of a
+<i>Rahvan</i>—Marble hovels—Hospitality—Foreign settlers—A
+Kurdish encampment—The tax-collectors—The
+wealth of the Kurdish Sheiks—The Delidsche
+Ermak—Fording the river—A district abounding in
+salt—Turkoman girls—The many languages spoken
+in Anatolia—A lunch under difficulties</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_163">163</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER XVI.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+A victim to the famine—Daili—A conversation with
+some Turkomans—The massacre of the Teke Turkomans
+by the Russians—Women violated—Little
+boys and girls abused and murdered—The Muscovite
+is a beast—Should not you like to cut the throats of
+all the Russians?—What is the best way to get rid
+of a wasp's nest?—A war of extermination—Yuzgat—A
+cavalcade of horsemen—Mr. Vankovitch—The
+telegram—Our reception—Old friends of the Crimea—Some
+visitors—Things have altered for the better—The
+Christians at Yuzgat—Armenians and Turks
+dine together—Mr. Vankovitch's experiences—The
+Polish insurrection—General Muravieff—Brutality
+to the women at Vilna</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_177">177</a><span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xxiv' name='Page_xxiv' href='#Page_xxiv'>xxiv</a></span>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER XVII.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+M. Perrot—Armenian customs—Man and wife—We
+keep our wives for ourselves—My host's niece—Law
+about divorce—Shutting up the wives—Turkish husbands—How
+to get a divorce—Marrying a divorced
+woman—Population of Yuzgat—Crime—Mines in
+neighbourhood—Tax paid in lieu of military service—The
+Circassians—Their promise to the Turkish
+Government—Tax on land; on house-property; on
+corn—Cattle—Collectors of taxes—Jealousy about
+religious matters—Dissensions amongst Christians—American
+Missionaries—A loyal address—The
+market—A bazaar two stories high—A
+walk through the town—Gipsy women—An elderly
+dame—Obstreperous young ladies—The old woman
+dances</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_187">187</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+The Mosque—The interior of the building—The lamps
+of different-coloured crystal—The Turks engaged in
+prayer—Comparison between Christians and Mussulmans—Daravish
+Bey—A wonderful shot—<i>Djerrid</i>—A
+strange request—The chase—A Bosnian lady—Her
+costume—A side-saddle—Even their women go
+out hunting—Daravish Bey dressed for the chase—A
+long shot—The price of a horse's forage—Most
+servants rob their masters—A Russian officer—The
+Armenian schools—The girls' school—Perhaps you
+would like to ask the boys some questions?—An
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xxv' name='Page_xxv' href='#Page_xxv'>xxv</a></span>
+amateur setter of questions—Mr. Marillier of Harrow
+school—A sum—The schoolboys of Yuzgat—A
+half-holiday</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_199">199</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER XIX.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+A visit to some Greeks—The Turkish administration—The
+impalement story—The law equally bad for
+Turks and Christians—Peculiarity about the Armenians
+and Greeks in Yuzgat—The outskirts of the
+town—An immense crowd—Women clad in long
+white sheets—Throwing the Djerrid—The game—We
+rode better in our time—A marriage procession—Women
+riding donkeys—The head of the Mohammedan
+religion at Yuzgat—The respective merits of
+the Turkish and Christian faith—Allah is very kind
+to all true believers—What is the good of insuring?—An
+Armenian church—A raised platform enclosed
+by trellis work—The occupants of the gallery—The
+women will stare at the men—Ladies distract the
+attention of the congregation—The Pole's house—A
+cheap servant</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_211">211</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER XX.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+The gipsies—A fearful instrument—The musicians—The
+dancers—The chief of the gipsy women—Her attire—Vankovitch's
+wife—A glass of raki—The fat
+woman—The man with the bagpipes—The dance—The
+two girls—The old lady accompanies them—The
+castanets—What is the good of dancing?—The
+Lord Chamberlain, who is he?—The marriage festivals
+in a harem—The old woman dances a <i>pas seul</i>—Osman's
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xxvi' name='Page_xxvi' href='#Page_xxvi'>xxvi</a></span>
+interview with Vankovitch—Oh, Osman!
+thou descendant of a line of thieves!—What is the
+meaning of this?—The Effendi's horses—The people
+at the Khans—An undulating country—Mostaphas—Unwillingness
+to fight their country's battles—Several
+inhabitants killed in Servia—Industrious
+insects—A country like the Saxon Switzerland—A
+district abounding with pine forests—The telegraph
+wire to Sivas—Saw-mills—Gogderi Soo—A house
+with two rooms—The stable—The fire—The harem—My
+host and his wives—Two shots in the air—The
+ladies—Their legs—The discomfort of the
+proprietor</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_220">220</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER XXI.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+Sileh Zela—Its position—The old citadel—The soil in the
+neighbourhood—A battalion of infantry—The Caimacan—The
+audience-chamber—The Cadi—The battalion
+going to Samsoun—The local authorities—The
+Colonel—England would be neutral—What,
+desert her old friend of the Crimea?—An ally in
+Austria—Andrassy—An Imaum—Propensity for
+fighting—A Christian Bishop—The most welcome
+members of society—Yakoob Khan of Kashgar—The
+Russians and the Chinese—The Khivans, Bokharians,
+and Turkomans—A rising of the Poles—The
+Armenians in Sileh—The ancient city—A secret
+passage—My tea and sugar—Osman had a sweet
+tooth—My lord's liberality praised—Osman to kneel
+on his own coat—Tartars—Lazy husbands—A plain
+planted with tobacco—Mountains covered with vines—Many-coloured
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xxvii' name='Page_xxvii' href='#Page_xxvii'>xxvii</a></span>
+sand-hills—A wonderful phenomenon—Bazar—Pacha
+Williams—Teesdale—Kars—Is
+Pacha Williams still alive?</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_231">231</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER XXII.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+Tokat—The Caimacan of the town—The battalion is to
+march to Samsoun—A naturalized Englishman—The
+road from Tokat to Sivas—The population of
+Tokat—The rich inhabitants bribe the gendarmes—The
+want of funds—The officials' salaries in arrear—Armenian
+schools in Tokat—The Greeks; not
+much reliance to be placed upon them—Khiva—Tashkent—Samarcand—Mussulmans
+in India—The
+Black Sea and the Russian Fleet—Old soldiers in
+Tokat—The Armenians and Greeks to be supplied
+with fire-arms—Good governors—Osman Bey— A
+Circassian on Russian atrocities—A statement by
+the Russian authorities—Seven hundred families
+near Labinsky—Men, women, and children at the
+breast butchered—English sympathizers with Russia—The
+Russians sow the seeds of dissension amongst
+the Circassians—Yonn Bek—Many gold imperials
+offered to him</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_242">242</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+The servant of the house—The Onbashee—Five piastres—Osman
+detected—The guilty man—Vankovitch's
+remarks—The sentence—May I put Osman in
+prison?—The barracks—Two old Khans—The
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xxviii' name='Page_xxviii' href='#Page_xxviii'>xxviii</a></span>
+women weeping—Immense enthusiasm—Numbers
+of volunteers—Parading for the march—Men crying—We
+shall eat the Russians—The Sergeant—The
+Major of the battalion—The Dervish—A Circassian—The
+Imaum of the regiment—The Muleteer—Baggage
+animals required for the regiment—A
+bitter cry—The women's wail—The old Major—The
+soldiers' hymn—The standard of the battalion—Go
+in safety—God be with you!</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_253">253</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+Osman Bey—A Circassian feud—Will there be a rising
+in the Caucasus?—If England were to help us—A
+wonderful servant—Mohammed—His Captain—An
+Armenian doctor—Business is flat—The Christian
+population to be armed—Visitors asking favours—Your
+reward will be in heaven—A subscription—Promotion
+through favouritism—A sad story—A
+cruel father—A servant arrested for debt—Failure
+of justice</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_264">264</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER XXV.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+Mohammed's horse—The Effendi's barley—The road from
+Tokat to Sivas—A very pretty girl—Tchiflik—Complaints
+made against the Circassians—Highly cultivated
+soil—The Tchamlay Bel mountain—A Turk
+killed—A wonderful gun—Yenihan—The Yeldez
+Ermak—The Kizil Ermak—Sivas—A ruined citadel—The
+importance of Sivas from a military point of
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xxix' name='Page_xxix' href='#Page_xxix'>xxix</a></span>
+view—My entry into Sivas—The guard—An Italian
+engineer—Three American missionaries—A house
+pillaged</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_275">275</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+The prison in Sivas—Christian prisoners—The gaoler—Kurds
+and Circassians—A few Armenians—False
+statement made to me by Christians—The old murderer—The
+firman for his execution—Kept in suspense—Our
+Governor dislikes shedding blood—Issek
+Pacha—He may die—His residence—The law in
+Turkey about murder—Mercenary dealings—Lax
+justice</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_284">284</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER XXVII.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+The Governor calls—A great honour—The Khedive's
+treasurer—The Pacha's carriage—The Turks and
+Christians—The Russian Government—The Armenian
+subjects of the Porte—The seeds of disaffection—General
+Ignatieff—The treasurer—The Italian
+lady—Erzingan—The Governor's invitation—The
+cold in the country—The Pacha was nearly frozen
+to death—His march from Kars to Erzeroum—Deep
+chasms along the track—The Conference is over—The
+Missionaries' home—American hospitality—The
+ladies—A Turkish woman in the streets of New
+York—A Chinese lad—New Orleans—The Anglo-Indian
+telegraph—The Franco-German War—The
+potato plant—The Armenians more deceitful than
+the Turks—The converts to Protestantism—The
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xxx' name='Page_xxx' href='#Page_xxx'>xxx</a></span>
+Tzar's Government does not tolerate any religion
+save its own—The superstitions attached to the
+Greek faith</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_295">295</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER XXVIII.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+An Armenian Monastery—A large garden—Farms belonging
+to the Monks—The Bishop—A fast day—The
+Turkish finance—The Armenian merchants in
+Sivas—The telegraph employed by them—The rise
+and fall in <i>caime</i>—The breath of scandal—A former
+Governor of Sivas—A suspicious case—His Eminence
+cannot marry—Are Protestant Bishops allowed
+to marry?—The chapels belonging to the Monastery—A
+curious altar—A strange tradition—The
+martyrs of Sivas—A picture of one of the Kings of
+Armenia—The Kings and the Church—Things are
+very different now—Privileges of the Monks—The
+Russian war with Persia—An Armenian General—Hassan,
+Khan of Persia—Sugar—How to make a
+large fortune</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_307">307</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER XXIX.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+The principal mosque—An ostrich egg—Curious custom—The
+dancing dervishes—A regiment of cavalry
+leaves Sivas—The arms of the men—Appearance of
+the horses—A short route to Erzeroum—Dudusa—The
+Kizil Ermak—Scenery—Glass replaced by alabaster—A
+raid on an Armenian village—The robbers
+caught—Women said to have been outraged—Kotnu—An
+accident—The Zaptiehs out of temper—Mohammed's
+appetite—A comparison between Mohammed
+and Osman</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_316">316</a><span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xxxi' name='Page_xxxi' href='#Page_xxxi'>xxxi</a></span>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER XXX.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+Snow—The path covered by it—The scenery—Upset in
+a snowdrift—Nearly down a chasm—Probing the
+ground—A consultation—Teaching my followers
+manners—May he die of the plague—A baggage-horse
+knocked up—Yarbasan—A dirty village—The
+farmer committing himself to Providence—Visiting
+his friends—The Zaptiehs—Their remarks—The
+Giaour threatened to beat us—The Inglis giaour is
+different to the Armenian giaour</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_325">325</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER XXXI.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+The river Dumrudja—How to cross the river?—A waterfall
+in the neighbourhood—Thanksgivings—Crossing
+the mountain—A house of refuge—Divriki—Its
+appearance—The number of houses—The
+river Tchalt Tchai—The Captain—His evolutions—Lor!
+what a cropper—Serve him right, sir—A
+Astley's performance—My host—Mines in the neighbourhood—People
+with brains—Houses formerly
+built of hewn stone—Cause of the decline of the
+Turkish power—Wives chosen for their looks—How
+to breed a good foal—A Turk's opinion of European
+women—They uncover their faces—What ridiculous
+creatures they must be—The Citadel—The Persians—The
+Greek fire—The view of Divriki—Sport—A
+rifle used as a shot gun—One of your best shots—The
+Kurds—Gunpowder—It is manufactured by the
+Kurds—All Powder is sent from Constantinople—Cost
+to the Government of cartridges—The Pacha
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xxxii' name='Page_xxxii' href='#Page_xxxii'>xxxii</a></span>
+of Sivas—His astrologer—Christians who are usurers—Turkish
+families ruined</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_333">333</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="2">
+CHAPTER XXXII.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdh">
+Usury laws in Turkey—An Armenian in prison for debt—The
+Caimacan—The Turkish creditor—Hanistan
+Ereek's father—A Government cannot be imprisoned
+for debt—The redif soldiers—Their unwillingness to
+serve—The Armenians not to be trusted—Yanoot—A
+picture of desolation—A Jordan road—Turkish soldiers
+do not grumble—Arabkir—A silk-merchant—My
+host—His library—Pretty covers—A Russian
+servant—He was taken prisoner during the Crimean
+war</td>
+<td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_344">344</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<a name="i-map" id="i-map"></a>
+<img src="images/i_mapsm.jpg" width="550" height="201" alt="" />
+<p class="caption">A MAP OF
+CAPT. BURNABY'S ROUTE
+<br />
+<span class="s08">
+<i>Stanford's Geog<sup>l</sup>. Estab<sup>t</sup>., Charing Cross.</i></span>
+<br />
+<span class="s08">London: Sampson Low, Marston, Searle &amp; Rivington.</span>
+</p>
+<p class="caption hidepub"> <a href="images/i_maplg.jpg">View larger image</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_1' name='Page_1' href='#Page_1'>1</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center b12 p4">
+ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR.
+</p>
+
+<hr class="l15" />
+
+<h2>
+CHAPTER I.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+The start—Cartridges and medicine bottles—The obese Englishman
+and the Yankee's cook—The refreshment-room at
+Dijon—"Ne vous pressez pas, messieurs"—Fellow-passengers—The
+silk-merchant—The pretty Greek girl who
+was a friend of Madame Ignatieff—The doctor—The
+respective merits of medicine and Christianity—The bay
+of Smyrna—The Greek ladies are not shy—Come along
+and smoke a Nargileh—A café in Smyrna—The Italian
+prima donna—The Christians and Turks in Smyrna—Newspapers
+believed to be in Russian pay—The Pacha's
+seraglio—A comely dame—Five hundred recruits—A doleful
+melody—To die for the sake of Islam—People so silly
+as to think that Gortschakoff wishes for peace—The fat
+woman—The eunuch in difficulties.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Be quick, sir; you have no time to lose!" cried
+an officious porter in the Charing Cross Station, as
+he bustled me into a first-class carriage; and I
+found myself in the same compartment with a
+Queen's messenger bound for St. Petersburg.
+Time fled rapidly by, and I had hardly realized to
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_2' name='Page_2' href='#Page_2'>2</a></span>
+myself that London was left behind, ere I was
+walking down those very uncomfortable steps
+which lead to the Calais boat. A rough passage
+with a number of Gauls, who all talked
+loud at starting, but whose conversation gradually
+died away in mournful strains, and we
+steamed into Calais harbour; five hours later I
+was having my luggage examined in the waiting-room
+in Paris.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Sir, they ain't found the cartridges, for I took
+good care to mix them up with the medicine
+bottles," whispered my servant Radford, as he
+mounted the box of our fiacre, and I drove away
+to a hotel, somewhat relieved in my mind, as I
+was not quite sure whether carrying loaded cartridges
+is permitted on the Chemin de Fer du
+Nord. I did not remain long in Paris. The
+2000 miles ride which lay before me across Asia
+Minor would take up every day of my leave.
+There was no time to lose, and in a very few
+hours I was in a railway station taking tickets
+for Marseilles. The night mail was just about to
+start. There were none but first-class carriages.
+The result was that servants and masters had
+to travel together.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You will sit in that carriage," said an obese
+and rubicund Englishman to his groom, pointing
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_3' name='Page_3' href='#Page_3'>3</a></span>
+to my compartment; "I cannot go with servants;"—and
+he entered another carriage. Farther
+on I saw the portly personage in the refreshment-room
+at Dijon. He was talking to a little Frenchman,
+and apparently on the best of terms with him.
+The sound of their voices was mingled with the
+jingling of glasses and the clinking of knives and
+forks. Every one was eating as fast as he could.
+The waiters were serving the different travellers
+with lightning rapidity, and the proprietor of the
+buffet was calling out from time to time in a deep
+bass voice,—
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"<span lang="fr_FR">Ne vous pressez pas, messieurs. Il y a
+encore 10 minutes avant le départ du train.</span>"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Who is the little man?" I inquired of a talkative
+Yankee who was sitting by my side during
+the <i><span lang="fr_FR">table d'hôte</span></i>.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He, sir? He is my cook, and I am taking
+him with me to Nice."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The obese Englishman heard the remark, and
+became more rubicund than before.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I reckon I have collapsed him," muttered the
+American. "If I have to travel with his darned
+servant, I don't see why he should not travel
+with mine."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The train rattled on. Each man in our crowded
+compartment tried to compose himself to sleep;
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_4' name='Page_4' href='#Page_4'>4</a></span>
+the red light from the American's cigar gradually
+died away, and the individual himself, coolly
+lolling his head on his neighbour's shoulder, sank
+into semi-unconsciousness.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The morn broke bright and glorious. Winter
+was left behind; we were in the land of orange-trees
+and olives.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The steamer for Constantinople started at four
+o'clock that afternoon, so we drove straight from
+the station in Marseilles to the harbour. Here I
+found a splendid vessel belonging to Les Messageries
+Maritimes, and which was already getting
+up steam. The captain was bustling about, giving
+orders. The crew were hauling in the ponderous
+anchors.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There were not many passengers on board;
+only a silk merchant from Lyons, a rabid republican,
+and a pretty Greek girl,—a friend of
+Madame Ignatieff, the wife of the Russian
+ambassador at Constantinople,—who, after paying
+a visit to some friends in Paris, was again on her
+way to Constantinople. Our vessel was soon
+steaming ahead. She ploughed her way splendidly
+through the waters, and hardly a motion could be
+perceived inside the spacious saloon which formed
+the dining-room of the passengers. We were but
+a small party. The captain, a cheery tar who had
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_5' name='Page_5' href='#Page_5'>5</a></span>
+been in every part of the world, and knew more
+stories about the unguardedness of the fair sex
+than perhaps any other mortal living. The doctor,
+a somewhat bilious and elderly gentleman, who
+became easily excited on all religious questions,
+and gave short dissertations between the courses on
+the respective merits of medicine and Christianity.
+The silk-merchant, who cursed the empire, and
+then informed us that trade had never been so
+flourishing as under Napoleon's rule. Presently
+he told me in a whisper that some Frenchmen
+wished for another Emperor, and he concluded,
+with an oath, that if there were, he would head
+a revolution and sacrifice his own life—yes, his
+own life!—sooner than that the Prince Imperial
+should sit upon the throne of France.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We steam into the bay of Smyrna; the picturesque
+and undulating coast is shaded in a
+framework of azure clouds; the sea, blue as lapis
+lazuli, is dotted with numerous vessels; flags of
+almost every nation in the world float in the
+balmy air; the clean white houses, with their
+many-coloured wooden shutters, brighten up the
+glorious landscape; and boatmen, dressed in garbs
+of many hues and fashions, throng the sides of
+our vessel.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I am going on shore," said the silk-merchant,
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_6' name='Page_6' href='#Page_6'>6</a></span>
+who was surrounded by a crowd of vociferous
+Greeks. "Our steamer will not start for several
+hours. Let us dine in a café, and see if the fair
+sex in this part of Turkey is as beautiful as some
+travellers would have us believe."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I accepted his proposal, and we walked through
+the streets of Smyrna. The town, clean as it
+looked from the harbour, proved to be a hideous
+deception. The streets were narrow and dirty,
+and the odour which everywhere met our olfactory
+nerves, was strongly suggestive of typhus. Women
+were seated in the <i>patios</i> or open courts of the
+houses, and the Greek ladies in Smyrna are evidently
+not shy. They boldly returned the inquisitive
+glances of my companion and myself, and
+appeared rather pleased than otherwise at our
+curiosity.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, I can't say much for their beauty,"
+observed my companion. "They have good eyes
+and hair, but all of them look as if they had not
+washed their faces for at least a fortnight. Come
+along and smoke a Nargileh. If there is one
+thing I love, it is a Nargileh, and when I am
+inhaling the tobacco I imagine myself to be a
+Pacha surrounded by my seraglio."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We turned into a café; it was surrounded by
+a large garden. Some Greek merchants were
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_7' name='Page_7' href='#Page_7'>7</a></span>
+playing at dominoes; an Italian prima donna,
+who might have been any age from seventy
+to a hundred, was singing a popular air; men
+with game and fish for sale walked up and down,
+regardless of interrupting the ancient vocalist, and
+offered their wares to the visitors. Presently my
+companion moved uneasily in his chair; some
+drops of perspiration stood on his forehead, and
+his face was becoming rapidly green under the
+influence of the Turkish Nargileh.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I think I have had enough," he remarked.
+"The room is very hot. <i><span lang="fr_FR">Au revoir.</span></i>" And he
+returned to our vessel.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the meantime I proceeded to call upon a
+friend in the town. This gentleman informed me
+that the Christians and Turks in Smyrna were on
+the best of terms; however, he added that certain
+papers, believed to be in Russian pay, were constantly
+announcing that there would shortly be a
+massacre of the Christians; it was said that this was
+done to excite bad blood between the two sects.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The shrill sound of the steamer's whistle announced
+that she was getting up steam. Hastily
+retracing my steps, I arrived on board just as the
+crew were weighing anchor. The original number
+of passengers had by this time received a considerable
+addition. Greeks, Armenians, and Turks
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_8' name='Page_8' href='#Page_8'>8</a></span>
+were walking about or lying stretched along the
+deck. Women and children were huddled up in
+close proximity with the men. A Babel of different
+languages was going on around me, and an old
+Greek woman was having an animated squabble
+with one of the ship's officers, the subject of discussion
+being as to whether the ancient female
+had paid the proper fare. The French officer
+could speak but little Greek, and the shrill-voiced
+dame no French; in consequence of this it was
+difficult for them to arrive at any satisfactory
+solution of the matter.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A Pacha, his son, and the chief of the telegraphs,
+were the only first-class passengers. However,
+four ladies, the Pacha's seraglio, had been accommodated
+on the deck; they were reclining on
+some cushions in close juxtaposition with their
+attendant—a negro. The voice of this sable
+gentleman was pitched in a feminine key, and he
+was busily engaged in arranging some pillows
+beneath the stoutest of the ladies—a comely dame
+who would have turned the scale at probably sixteen
+stone. Two pointer dogs in a large hamper,
+which was directed to a Bey in Constantinople,
+added their barking to the general clamour, and
+some horses, bound to Stamboul, were fastened
+by head-collars to the bulwarks, no horse-boxes
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_9' name='Page_9' href='#Page_9'>9</a></span>
+being provided. Farther on, and towards the
+steerage end of the vessel, were 500 recruits,
+on their way to Servia, and in high spirits at the
+idea of shortly encountering the Russians.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was a lovely evening, and I walked along the
+deck with the captain, gazing curiously at his
+motley passengers. The stars shone bright, as
+became an Eastern clime; a gradually freshening
+breeze for the moment had cleared the horizon.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We shall have an easy passage," I remarked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, for good sailors," was the reply; "but
+it will be a little rough for those poor women,"—pointing
+to the pacha's harem—"and for the
+half-clad recruits yonder."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The latter did not seem to anticipate the treat
+that was in store for them. They were scattered
+in groups about the deck, many of them squatting
+upon their haunches, and attired for the most
+part in rags and many-coloured patchwork.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Presently a doleful melody was heard; the dirge
+which reached our ears told us of the readiness
+of these embryo warriors to meet the foe and die
+for the sake of Islam.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"They will die quite soon enough," remarked
+the captain drily, as the last verse died away.
+"Look down there," he added, pointing to the
+ship's hold; "our vessel is laden with 300 tons
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_10' name='Page_10' href='#Page_10'>10</a></span>
+of lead, and once a week for several months past
+the steamers belonging to the Messageries Maritimes
+have been freighted with a similar cargo.
+This is all going to Odessa. It will be odd if
+some of the lead does not soon find its way
+back to the true believers, in the shape of
+bullets."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Russian Government is putting itself to
+great expense," he continued; "however, there are
+people so silly as to think that Gortschakoff wishes
+for peace; and in spite of all his preparations
+they actually believe in the Conference!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The captain now left me, but I remained on
+deck. The freshening gale gradually imparted
+an oscillating movement to our steamer. The
+rain fell in large drops. Some of the sailors
+covered the ladies of the harem with an awning.
+The horses began to kick, and the dogs in the
+hamper to bark. A melancholy groan could
+be heard from that part of the vessel appropriated
+by the soldiers. The first to succumb
+was the fat woman; in despairing tones she
+called for assistance. The black attendant rushed
+to the rescue and convulsively grasped the lady's
+head. It was a funny spectacle—that enormous
+pumpkin-shaped face supported by two black
+hands. The now hazy moon cast a shadowy
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_11' name='Page_11' href='#Page_11'>11</a></span>
+beam on the negro's countenance: from black it
+changed to green; it assumed a diabolical expression.
+The vessel lurched; he lost his balance;
+dropping his mistress's head, he fell down upon
+the pointers. They set up a savage growl. The
+eunuch started to his feet; his hair bristled with
+alarm; he felt himself all over. However, there
+was no damage done, and with a sorrowful mien
+he returned to the side of his mistress.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_12' name='Page_12' href='#Page_12'>12</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER II.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+The Bosphorus—The commissionnaires—Nothing like the Hôtel
+de Luxembourg—Perdrix aux truffes—Baksheesh—Officials
+in the custom-house—A rickety old carriage—A Turkish
+Café Chantant—A vocalist—Sultan Abdul Aziz—His
+kismet—We are all under the influence of destiny—"Great
+Sultan, rest in peace!"—Did Sultan Abdul
+Aziz really kill himself?—The popular belief—He had
+agreed to sell the fleet to Russia—A Russian force
+to garrison Constantinople—Two of the secret police—The
+other verse—The audience—Too much liberty in
+Constantinople—English newspapers, hostile to Turkey,
+sold at every bookstall—An English army of occupation
+in Constantinople—No gold; nothing but paper—Trade
+paralyzed—In search of a servant—A Mohammedan
+servant; his costume—A coachman to a Pacha—Buffaloes
+as a means of locomotion—Mr. Schuyler—Mr.
+Gallenga—Our consul at Belgrade—Mr. Sala—The
+stations along the Russian line crowded with troops—Mr.
+McGahan very popular with the Christians—The Turkish
+newspapers—A ruse on the part of England—An English
+officer—A strategic position—Some influential Armenians—"We
+have no wish to become Russian subjects"—The
+Catholics in Poland—Similar treatment required for
+all sects—The word of a Christian in a court of law—An
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_13' name='Page_13' href='#Page_13'>13</a></span>
+Armenian priest—From Scutari to Kars—The road
+blocked by snow—The dread of being seen speaking to a
+European.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The following morning my servant awoke me with
+the announcement that we had arrived in the
+Bosphorus, and that he had not been able to eat
+his supper. By this last piece of intelligence he
+wished to convey to my mind that the storm had
+been more than usually violent. I was soon
+dressed, and, going on deck, found it crowded
+with interpreters from the different hotels. During
+previous sojourns in Constantinople, I had learnt
+by experience the discomfort of some of the purely
+British establishments. I had made up my mind
+on this occasion to try a French hotel. My hands
+were filled with cards announcing the merits of
+the different inns. The commissionnaires were
+deafening me with their shouts, each man bawling
+louder than his fellow, when the silk-merchant
+declared in a loud voice that there was
+nothing like the Hôtel de Luxembourg, and he
+added that the <i><span lang="fr_FR">perdrix aux truffes</span></i> and the <i><span lang="fr_FR">vol-au-vent
+à la financière</span></i>, as supplied by the chef of
+that establishment, were something—yes, something;
+and he kissed the tips of his fingers as he
+made the last remark, so as to show his appreciation
+of the exquisiteness of those dishes.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_14' name='Page_14' href='#Page_14'>14</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Perhaps the gentlemen do not wish their
+luggage examined?" said an officious Greek, the
+commissionnaire of the Luxembourg. "I will
+give a baksheesh to the officials in the custom-house,
+and they will pass the luggage at once.
+But if we do not give them any money," he added,
+with a knowing grin, "they will detain you at
+least an hour, and rumple all the shirts in your
+portmanteaus."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Will it be much money?" inquired my companion,
+who, very reluctant to open his purse-strings,
+was equally averse to having his shirt-fronts
+rumpled.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, sir, leave it to me," replied the Greek, with
+an air of great importance.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I know that this scoundrel will rob us!"
+ejaculated the silk-merchant. "But we are in
+his hands. We must pay, whether we like it
+or not."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We arrived at the custom-house. An elderly
+official approached the Greek, and, pointing to us,
+said something in his ear.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We shall be robbed, I know we shall,"
+muttered my companion excitedly. "If I could
+only speak the language, I would just give that
+official a piece of my mind."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Greek now put some money into the inspector's
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_15' name='Page_15' href='#Page_15'>15</a></span>
+hand, and the latter, opening and shutting a
+hat-case, announced that the examination was
+over. Some porters carried our luggage up the
+steep hill which led from the port to Pera. We
+followed in a rickety old carriage. The springs
+were very weak, and the vehicle rolled from side to
+side as our horses panted along the wretchedly dirty
+street. Presently, to the relief of my companion
+and self, who were neither of us feather weights,
+the driver pulled up at our destination.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the evening I went to a Turkish Café Chantant.
+It was a curious sight. Solemn-looking
+Turks were seated round the room, each man
+smoking his Nargileh. Little active-looking Greeks
+with cigarettes in their mouths, were eagerly
+reading the most recent telegrams, and discussing
+the chances of peace or war. In the interval between
+the songs a small knot of younger Turks
+loudly applauded a vocalist, and the latter began
+to sing about Sultan Abdul Aziz, of all his glory,
+and how at last pride turned his head. He
+did foolish things, went mad, and killed himself.
+"But it was not his fault," continued the singer,
+in another verse, "it was his kismet. If he had
+been destined to die a natural death, or on the
+battle-field, he would have done so. We are all
+under the influence of destiny. Sultans are like
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_16' name='Page_16' href='#Page_16'>16</a></span>
+the rest of the world. Great Sultan, rest in
+peace!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had the good fortune to be accompanied
+by a friend, an old resident in Constantinople.
+He was a perfect master of Turkish, and he
+readily translated to me each verse of the song.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What is your opinion about Abdul Aziz's
+death?" I inquired of my companion, as the last
+strains of the melody died away. "Did he really
+kill himself, as the world would have us believe?
+or did some one else save him the trouble?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+My companion laughed ironically, paused for a
+few moments, and then remarked,—
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No one knows the exact facts of the case,
+but the popular belief is that he was assassinated.
+Indeed, the Turks say that he had agreed to sell
+the fleet to Russia, and had consented to allow a
+Russian force to garrison Constantinople."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There is no doubt of one thing," continued my
+friend, "viz. that the late Sultan was thoroughly
+under Ignatieff's thumb. The ambassador could
+do what he liked with him. The Softas found it
+out, and feared the consequences. From these
+facts the public have jumped to the conclusion
+that he was assassinated."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But look," added my companion, pointing
+to two men in the corner of the room, "there
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_17' name='Page_17' href='#Page_17'>17</a></span>
+are two of the secret police. If they were not
+here, we should very likely have had another verse
+or so, more explicit as to the Sultan's fate. The
+audience would have been delighted if the singer
+had given us the popular version of Abdul Aziz's
+death."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Are there many secret police?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, there is, if anything, too much liberty in
+Constantinople; the papers write what they like,
+and abuse the Government freely, hardly any of
+them being suppressed in consequence, whilst
+some English newspapers which are more bitter
+against Turkey than even the Russian journals, are
+sold at every bookstall."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Do you think that there is any chance of
+another massacre of Christians?" I remarked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Not the slightest; that is to say, if Ignatieff
+does not arrange one for some political purpose.
+The Turks and Christians get on very well together
+here, whatever they may do in other parts of
+the country. However, there is one thing which
+would be very popular with all classes, and that
+is, an English army of occupation in Constantinople."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why so?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Because this would bring some gold into the
+country. We have now nothing but paper. Your
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_18' name='Page_18' href='#Page_18'>18</a></span>
+people would spend money, and business would go
+on better. Why, for the last six months trade has
+been almost paralyzed. In fact, to tell you the
+truth, all classes would be very glad to see the
+English at Constantinople. Not for the sake of
+your good system of government, as you flatter
+yourselves in London, or through fear of being
+massacred by Bashi Bazouks, but simply because
+you have gold. Unless you bring us some, we
+shall all soon be ruined."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On the following day I informed the proprietor
+of the hotel that I wanted a servant who could
+speak Turkish, to accompany me during my journey.
+The moment that this became known I
+was beset by all sorts of individuals, Armenians
+and Greeks, eager to offer their services. Each
+man brought his testimonials, and declared that
+he was the only honest man in Constantinople,
+and that all the other applicants were thieves,
+and would certainly rob me. If ever I appeared
+to have a predilection for one of the candidates, I
+was immediately informed by the others that the
+man had been in prison for six months, or else
+that he was suspected of murder.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In consequence of this I determined to follow
+the advice of an Englishman who knew Turkey
+well, and take a Mohammedan servant, who could
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_19' name='Page_19' href='#Page_19'>19</a></span>
+speak no other language than his own. In that
+case he would be less likely to have learned any
+bad habits from the Armenians, and at the same
+time I should be compelled to speak to him in
+Turkish, and thus improve my knowledge of that
+language.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The next morning a Turk came to the hotel, and
+offered himself for the situation. He was dressed
+in the Circassian style, and wore a short brown
+serge jacket, dotted across the breast with empty
+cartridge cases. His head was covered by a red
+fez or cap, encircled by a green turban. A loose
+pair of light blue trousers, fastened at the waist
+by a crimson sash, and a pair of boots, half-way
+up the knee, completed his attire. He was a tall,
+fine-looking fellow, and said that he had previously
+been coachman to a Pacha, that he was a
+good groom, and would be faithful to me as an
+Arab steed to his Arab master. It was a pretty
+speech, but as I had seen some horses in the
+desert which invariably kicked whenever their
+master approached them, it did not produce the
+effect upon my mind which probably the faithful
+man desired. However I was in a hurry to get a
+servant; so I agreed to take the fellow, and give
+him 4<i>l.</i> per month and his food. In the meantime
+he said that he knew of some horses for sale,
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_20' name='Page_20' href='#Page_20'>20</a></span>
+and that he would bring them to the hotel in the
+course of a few days.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had previously ascertained that my best plan
+would be to purchase a stud in Constantinople.
+In many parts of my proposed journey I should
+be off the postal track, and then it would be
+difficult to hire any horses—indeed it would
+sometimes be impossible, as the natives in certain
+parts of Kurdistan make use of buffaloes as a
+means of locomotion. I had once ridden a cow
+during an African journey. The motion is very
+uncomfortable; I had no wish to repeat the experiment
+with a buffalo.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Later on an invitation arrived for me to breakfast
+with Mr. Schuyler, the distinguished diplomatist,
+and the author of the highly-interesting
+volume, "Turkistan." On arriving at his house
+I found some of the guests already assembled.
+Amongst others, there were Mr. Gallenga, the
+<i>Times'</i> correspondent, and Mr. White, our consul
+at Belgrade.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Presently there was a ring at the bell, and who
+should come in but Mr. Sala, the well-known
+correspondent of the <i>Daily Telegraph</i>. His
+arrival was quite an unexpected pleasure for our
+host. Mr. Sala had only reached Constantinople
+half an hour before, and had come to us straight
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_21' name='Page_21' href='#Page_21'>21</a></span>
+from the harbour. He had left England about
+three weeks previously, and first had gone to St.
+Petersburg. Here he had been introduced to
+several Russian journalists. He related in a very
+amusing way their conversation about England's
+policy towards Turkey, an account of which
+Mr. Sala had duly posted to the <i>Daily Telegraph</i>.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+From St. Petersburg he had made his way to
+Odessa, and had come on <i>viâ</i> the Black Sea to
+Constantinople. He described all the stations
+along the Russian line as crowded with troops
+and blocked by military railway carriages; whilst
+he laughed incredulously when some of our party
+gave it as their opinion that the Conference would
+lead to peace.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Our host opined that the different representatives
+at the Conference would never agree,
+and that war would inevitably be the result. He
+had recently returned from a visit to Philippopolis,
+where he had been staying with Mr.
+McGahan, the gentleman who wrote such harrowing
+accounts of the massacres in Bulgaria to the
+<i>Daily News</i>. Mr. McGahan, it appeared, had
+made himself very useful to Lady Strangford in
+assisting her to distribute the funds which had
+been subscribed for the destitute families in the
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_22' name='Page_22' href='#Page_22'>22</a></span>
+East, and was immensely popular with the
+Christians.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Meanwhile the Turkish newspapers, it was
+said, were very divided in their opinions as to the
+Conference. The majority of them, however, were
+inclined to believe that it was a ruse of Russia
+to gain time for her military preparations, and of
+England to make Russia unpopular, and to sow
+discord between her and the other powers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Later on in the day I met an English officer in
+the Engineers, who had come to Constantinople
+during his leave, and was spending his time, in
+company with some other officers, in surveying a
+position between the Sea of Marmora and the
+Black Sea, and which is immediately in front of
+Constantinople. He was staying at a small
+village about twenty miles from Constantinople,
+and asked me to spend a day with him and his
+friends, when we could ride over the ground
+which he was surveying. As I was curious to see
+the country in that neighbourhood, I readily
+assented to his proposal. It was agreed that I
+should leave Constantinople by the seven o'clock
+train on the following morning, and that he should
+send a horse to meet me at a little station about
+twenty miles from the city.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. Gallenga had been kind enough to give me
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_23' name='Page_23' href='#Page_23'>23</a></span>
+an introduction to some influential Armenians in
+Pera. On returning to my hotel I found two of
+these gentlemen awaiting my arrival. They were
+very disappointed to hear that I had engaged a
+Turkish servant, as they said they could have
+procured an honest Armenian, and they kindly
+volunteered to provide me with letters of recommendation
+to the different Armenian dignitaries
+in the chief towns which lay in my route.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was easy to gather from the conversation of
+one of these gentlemen that he was not well-disposed
+to the idea of possibly one day becoming a
+Russian subject.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What is your opinion of the wish which General
+Ignatieff is said to have expressed, about making
+Bulgaria independent of the Porte?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"That would never do," replied one of my
+visitors. "We have difficulty enough, as it is, in
+keeping our people quiet in Armenia: they will
+be very indignant if the Christians in Europe are
+granted privileges which the Armenians in Asia
+are not permitted to share."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The fact is," observed the other, "that we have
+no wish to become Russian subjects. Should this
+happen, we know very well what would be the result.
+We should not be permitted to use our own language,
+and considerable pressure would be brought
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_24' name='Page_24' href='#Page_24'>24</a></span>
+to bear to induce us to change our religion. We
+are aware of what has been done to the Catholics
+in Poland;<a name='FA_3' id='FA_3' href='#FN_3' class='fnanchor'>[3]</a> we have no wish to be treated in
+the same manner."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What we require is similar treatment for all
+sects," observed the first speaker, "and that the
+word of a Christian when given in a court of law
+should be looked upon as evidence, and in the
+same light as a Mohammedan's statement. If the
+Caimacans (Deputy Governors) and Cadis of the
+different towns in the interior were only compelled
+to do us justice in this respect, we should
+not have much cause to grumble. However, if
+the Russians were to go to Van, our fellow-countrymen
+would be ten times worse off than
+they are at present."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Just then an Armenian priest entered the
+room. He stooped, and was apparently on
+the wrong side of sixty, but he had a quick,
+penetrating glance, when he chose to raise his
+eyes from the floor, and it was evident that there
+was plenty of vigour in his brain, however little
+there might be in his body.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"This English gentleman wishes to learn some
+particulars about the road to Van," observed one
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_25' name='Page_25' href='#Page_25'>25</a></span>
+of the Armenians; "I want you to give him all
+the information in your possession."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He will find it very difficult to reach Van at
+this season of the year, on account of the snow,
+and he will run a considerable risk of being
+robbed or murdered by the Kurds," replied
+the priest, without raising his eyes from the
+ground.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Have you ever been from Scutari to Van?"
+I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, nor hardly any one else. You had better
+go by the Black Sea to Trebizond, ride from
+there to Erzeroum, and it is only twelve days from
+that town to Van; but you would probably find
+the road blocked by the snow."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was clear that this priest could not help me
+much about my route, so I determined to take
+a map, Kiepert's Turkey in Asia, and strike a
+line across country as nearly as possible to Erzeroum.
+On arriving there I should probably be
+able to obtain some information about the state
+of the roads.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the meantime the priest and his companions
+had left the hotel—not together, but one by one—as
+the old man remarked that this would be
+less likely to attract attention. Indeed subsequently,
+and throughout my journey, I frequently
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_26' name='Page_26' href='#Page_26'>26</a></span>
+remarked the same dread of being seen speaking
+to an European on the part of the Armenian
+priests. Whether this arises from the fact that
+they are afraid of being suspected of conspiring
+against the Turkish Government, or it is the
+result of a guilty conscience, I cannot say.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Armenian newspapers frequently publish news
+which cannot be agreeable to the Government,
+and they are not interfered with by the authorities.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Armenians are not thrown into prison or
+banished from the capital without this being at
+once published to the world. Then why so much
+timidity on the part of the Armenian priests?
+If they are not engaged in seeking to undermine
+the Government, one would have thought that
+they had nothing to fear.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_27' name='Page_27' href='#Page_27'>27</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER III.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+The porter at the hotel—A little persuasive force—Trains in
+Turkey are not very punctual—Two Englishmen—Snipe-shooting—The
+railroad takes a circuitous course—Krupp
+guns—The Christians are too much for the Turks in a
+bargain—Hadem Kui—No horse waiting—The station-master—A
+lanky, overgrown lad—Buyuk Checkmedge
+and Kara Bournu—A branch railway required—A station-master's
+salary—The horse—Attacked by a dog—The
+defence of Constantinople—A song in which the Turks
+delighted—Good-looking Hungarian girls—The handsome
+Italian—"I am not a barrel"—The song about the Turcos—Spontaneous
+combustion—A special Correspondent—Algeria
+is not Turkey, but it does not much signify.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had ordered the porter at my hotel to call me
+early on the following morning, as the train
+started at seven, and it was quite half an hour's
+walk to the station. Luckily I awoke myself,
+and on looking at my watch, found it was about
+half-past six. Hastily dressing, I hurried downstairs,
+and found the individual whose business
+it was to awake me, fast asleep under a billiard
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_28' name='Page_28' href='#Page_28'>28</a></span>
+table in the café belonging to the hotel. He
+grumbled at being disturbed, and did not fancy
+the idea of carrying my box to the station. It
+was necessary to use a little persuasive force, so,
+seizing a billiard cue, I gave him a violent poke
+in the side.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Get up directly! I shall miss the train!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Please God you will not," replied the Turk,
+with a yawn.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had no time to lose, so, taking the recumbent
+man by the collar, I lifted him bodily on his legs,
+put my bag in his hand, and, with another push
+from the billiard cue, precipitated him down the
+steps into the street.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You want me to go to the station, Effendi!"
+said the fellow, now thoroughly aroused.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But the train will be gone."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Not if we run."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Run!" replied the porter, very much astonished,
+"and what will the Effendi do?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Run too."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And with another thrust from the billiard cue, I
+started him down Pera.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Fortunately for me, trains in Turkey are not
+very punctual in starting. On arriving at the
+railway, about ten minutes past seven, I found that
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_29' name='Page_29' href='#Page_29'>29</a></span>
+I had time to take my ticket to Hadem Kui, a small
+station an hour and a half from Constantinople.
+There were two Englishmen in the same carriage
+as myself, one of them an old friend whose
+acquaintance I had made some years previous in
+Madrid. They intended to stop at a swamp a
+few miles from the city, and spend the day snipe-shooting.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Upon my remarking that the railway seemed
+to take a very circuitous course, my friend
+smiled.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," he said, "when the line was about to be
+constructed, the Government agreed to pay so much
+per mile,—the result has been that, although the
+country is level, the line is not quite so straight as
+it might be."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Poor Turks!" said his companion, "they are
+always being abused by the Christians, and yet the
+latter make a very good thing out of them. Why,
+only the other day, a quantity of Krupp guns were
+brought here. The cost price was 150<i>l.</i> per gun,
+but the Turks had to pay 750<i>l.</i>"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Christians are too much for them in a
+bargain," he added.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+My fellow-travellers now left the train, which
+had stopped at the side of a wide marsh, and
+before our engine was again in motion, the report
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_30' name='Page_30' href='#Page_30'>30</a></span>
+of a gun made me aware that their sport had
+already commenced.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Half an hour later I arrived at the little station
+of Hadem Kui. "Is there a horse waiting for
+me?" I inquired. "No," was the answer of
+the station-master, a Hungarian. "Can I hire an
+animal?" "No," was the reply. "How far is it
+to the village where Colonel H—— is living?"
+"Seven miles." "What sort of a road?" "No
+road at all, but deep mud up to the horse's
+girths." "When does the next train go back to
+Constantinople?" "Not till seven p.m."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I certainly did not bless my friend H——. To
+kick my heels about for twelve hours in a station
+destitute of a waiting-room, and with nothing to
+occupy my time, was not an agreeable prospect.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I tell you what you had better do," said the
+station-master, "send a boy with a note to your
+friend. There is probably some misunderstanding
+about the horse, and the boy will be able to get
+to the village and back again in a few hours."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A lanky, overgrown lad volunteered to take the
+letter, and, tucking up his ragged trousers till his
+bare thighs were thoroughly exposed to view, he
+took off his boots, and started. In a few minutes I
+could see him wading through mud at least two
+feet deep. A heavy M. F. H. would have found
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_31' name='Page_31' href='#Page_31'>31</a></span>
+himself considerably out of his element if suddenly
+put down with his field and hounds in that line of
+country. Imagine layers of the heaviest Bedfordshire
+plough-fields all heaped one on the top of the
+other, and then you will fall short in attempting
+to realize the nature of the soil. If ever an invading
+army were to make use of the railway from
+Adrianople for an advance upon Constantinople,
+and the line between Buyuk Checkmedge on the
+Sea of Marmora, and Kara Bournu on the Black
+Sea, be selected by the Turks as a last point from
+which to defend the capital, the difficulty in transporting
+heavy guns and baggage to the centre of
+this position would be enormous. The defenders
+will have to make a small branch railway in rear
+of the line of defence, or it will be impossible for
+them to supply their army.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The station-master now invited me to sit down
+in his room, and wait till an answer to my note
+arrived. He was suffering from fever, and complained
+of the unhealthy nature of the soil. He
+could not sleep at night, and what most worried
+him was the incessant click of the telegraph dial.
+It was a very busy time, and any number of messages
+were always passing.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I can read them as they pass, simply by the
+sound," he continued, "and that incessant click,
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_32' name='Page_32' href='#Page_32'>32</a></span>
+click, click, all night, is enough to drive a man
+mad. My brain aches. I toss from side to side.
+I see devils sitting on the telegraph-box."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Take my word for it, sir," he added, "there
+is nothing which breaks a man down so quickly as
+being a station-master in Turkey."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What is your salary?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Only 80<i>l.</i> a year. It is not enough to keep
+a wife," he added. "If I had a wife the life
+would be easier, but there are no women here. I
+shall end by hanging myself upon one of my own
+telegraph-posts—I know I shall if I stay here
+much longer."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A letter now arrived from Captain F——, a
+friend of H——'s, to say that, in the absence of
+the latter, he had opened my letter, and in consequence
+had sent me a horse. Such a horse as he
+was too, with no shoulders, and only about
+thirteen hands high; when I mounted the animal
+and had let out the stirrups to their last hole
+they were too short. I had the cramp. When I
+rode without stirrups my legs were in the mud.
+It was a choice of evils—the cramp or the mud,
+and the mud gained the day.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At last I came to the little village where
+Colonel H—— and his friend were residing. An
+Armenian servant now informed me that his
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_33' name='Page_33' href='#Page_33'>33</a></span>
+master was busy surveying, but that he would
+soon return. The other officer, who had sent me
+the horse, was also out, but was shortly expected
+home. In about three hours both of them
+arrived. H—— had lost his way in the dark.
+He had been attacked by a dog; the savage brute
+had bitten his boot, and H—— had only saved
+himself by using his revolver. He had ordered a
+man to bring me a horse, but from the officer not
+being able to speak Turkish his instructions had
+been misunderstood.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The room was not a large one, and only a
+few feet square. There was no other, so we
+shared it between us, I being accommodated on
+the floor. We were up at daybreak, and rode
+over the position, a succession of rising slopes,
+which looked as if nature had made them especially
+for the defence of Constantinople. The
+distance from the Sea of Marmora to the Black
+Sea is twenty-four or twenty-five miles;<a name='FA_4' id='FA_4' href='#FN_4' class='fnanchor'>[4]</a> but each
+flank, being covered by lakes and rivers, could be
+easily watched and secured. The extent of the
+real fighting-ground would be by these features
+reduced to nine or ten miles of plain, but with
+favourable undulations affording a good command
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_34' name='Page_34' href='#Page_34'>34</a></span>
+over the front. Batteries could be so arranged as
+to enfilade each other at every point, and should
+fifty thousand reliable troops ever make a stand at
+this position, it would be a very difficult one to carry.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This time my friend had mounted me on a
+different sort of animal to the one which I had
+ridden on the previous day. He was a stout
+grey cob, with good shoulders: when I mounted
+him the first thing which he did was to try and
+run away. I turned his head towards a neighbouring
+height, and let him gallop through the
+deep mud. To my astonishment on arriving at
+the summit he continued pulling. There was
+evidently some good stuff in that horse, and I
+determined to buy him. His owner was not in
+the village, so I left word that if he would send
+the cob to Constantinople, I would give 10<i>l.</i> for the
+animal—a very fair price taking into consideration
+the market price of horses in the capital.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Meantime, after having said good-bye to my
+hospitable entertainers, I turned my face towards
+the railway-station. A line of telegraph-posts
+served me as a guide, and I arrived at the booking-office
+in time to catch the train.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+An acquaintance, a friend of the silk-merchant,
+called upon me later in the evening. He proposed
+that we should go together to a café, and hear a
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_35' name='Page_35' href='#Page_35'>35</a></span>
+song which a French girl sang every night, and
+one in which the Turks delighted.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The café, or rather music hall, was a fine
+building, crowded with men of all nationalities.
+Good-looking Hungarian and Italian girls took
+the place of waiters, and bustled about, receiving
+orders from the more than usually excited true
+believers. Many of the latter, in spite of the
+Prophet's injunction, were freely partaking of
+raki. Volumes of smoke from the cigarettes
+and chibouks of the spectators had created a dense
+atmosphere in the building. Some of the attendants
+were remarkably handsome girls. Indeed, as
+I subsequently learnt, the proprietor of the café
+would not engage an ugly woman, his idea being
+that the Turks, his chief customers, came quite as
+much to look at and talk to his waitresses, as to
+see the performance. It must have been a hard
+trial for the digestive organs of the better-looking
+of these girls. One in particular, a tall and very
+handsome Italian, with large dark eyes and an
+innocent expression, which probably her character
+belied, was in great request, the Turks always
+inviting her to share the raki or the coffee which
+she brought them. The performance lasted from
+eight p.m. till about two in the morning; it was
+a wonder that her constitution could stand the
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_36' name='Page_36' href='#Page_36'>36</a></span>
+trial. I called for a cup of coffee, and when she
+handed it to me, I asked in Italian what she
+would like for herself. The girl's eyes sparkled on
+being addressed in her native tongue.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Nothing, signore," she said; "I am not a
+barrel, although the Turks think I am; but you
+are not a Turk. However, I cannot afford to
+offend them, for the proprietor pays us no
+wages; all I have is what the visitors give
+me. It is a dreadful life, signore. Chocolate,
+raki, and beer. I only sip, but I have to swallow
+a little all the same; then there is lemonade,
+coffee, mastic, and occasionally, when gentlemen
+like yourself come here—champagne. It is such
+a mixture. I have a pain sometimes," she
+continued, at the same time pointing to the
+bodice of her dress, "I wish to cry, but I have to
+run about, smile, wait upon the visitors, and
+drink with them—it is a dreadful life. Oh, if
+I could only return to Florence!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A Turk seated near me, and who was eagerly
+gazing at the girl, made a sign to her.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I must go," she said. "He is a friend of the
+proprietor—I dare not offend him."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Presently she was sipping some punch from his
+glass. My friend caught my eye, and laughed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," he said, "she is adding punch to the
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_37' name='Page_37' href='#Page_37'>37</a></span>
+other mixtures. Poor child, it will be a wonder if
+she does not go off by spontaneous combustion
+some day. But, hush! the famous singer is
+just going to give us the song about the
+Turcos."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A tall and rather stout French girl now came
+upon the stage. Some long black tresses were
+hanging down her back. Her dress, which was
+made of white muslin, was very low in front, and
+a flaming red sash encircled her waist. The song
+had reference to the bravery of the Turcos, how
+they died for France, and how France loved
+them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The girl had a good voice. As the last notes
+died away in the hall, the Turks became greatly
+excited. Shouts of applause resounded through
+the building. Close to my table were two Englishmen.
+One of them appeared to be a correspondent
+of some newspaper. His pocket-book
+was open on the table. He was taking notes.
+"Patriotic song," he remarked to his companion,
+"capital scene for a graphic letter—sympathy
+between French and Turks—you see she says
+France loves the Turks." "Nonsense," said
+his companion, "she is singing about the Turcos
+in Algeria, not about the Turks—you have
+written it all wrong." The Special changed
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_38' name='Page_38' href='#Page_38'>38</a></span>
+colour for a moment, and then muttered, "Confound
+it! yes! Algeria is not Turkey, but
+it does not much signify." And he went on
+writing.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_39' name='Page_39' href='#Page_39'>39</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER IV.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+Osman—Five horses for sale—An industrious man—A cemetery—A
+wall-eyed Turk—A little black—"He ain't got
+no shoulders"—A horse with a sore back—A roarer—The
+blind beggars hear him coming—A Turkish horseshoe—Provisions
+for the journey—A prince belonging to the
+Russian Embassy in the hospital—A prince a boot-cleaner—Osman's
+relatives—The Hôtel Royal—A stirrup-cup—Osman's
+religious scruples—The boat for Scutari—Shipping
+our horses—Jealous husbands—A Turk's seraglio—Was
+it a torpedo?—The panels of the Bey's carriage—An
+explosion of cartridges—Readjusting the luggage—A
+torrent of expletives.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The following morning I was awoke by a tap at
+the door, and who should enter my room but the
+newly-engaged servant, Osman.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Effendi," he said, "I have five horses for
+you to see. They are in a large yard close to the
+hotel. Splendid horses they are too. I am so
+industrious," he added, "the Effendi will find this
+out for himself soon. I am not like other Turks—I
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_40' name='Page_40' href='#Page_40'>40</a></span>
+like working; I have been running all over
+Constantinople after the horses, for I heard that
+the Effendi was in a hurry to start. When will he
+go and see the animals?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+About half an hour later I accompanied the
+industrious man to a small plot of ground not far
+from Pera. It was surrounded by a high wall,
+and, judging from the number of loose stones
+which lay about, had once been a cemetery. But
+cemetery or not it was all the same to Osman, who
+had not the same reverence for the dead as the
+rest of his countrymen.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There are a great many stones," I observed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"All the better, Effendi," was the reply; "we
+shall ride over a number of stones on the road to
+Kars, and a little sooner or later for the horses
+does not make much difference."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The steeds were now led in, accompanied by
+their owner, a wall-eyed Turk. They were not
+much to look at, if one estimated them from an
+English standard, but I had learnt, in previous
+travels that one cannot always judge of Eastern
+horses by their appearance. I desired my English
+servant, Radford, to mount the best-looking one
+of the lot, a little black, about fourteen hands
+high. He was very thin, and looked as if he
+had never been given a good feed of corn, but his
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_41' name='Page_41' href='#Page_41'>41</a></span>
+legs were fine and hard. He put down his feet
+flat when he walked, and did not go on his toes,
+which last is a fatal defect to a horse if about to
+march for many days in succession. Radford eyed
+the animal from head to foot.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Lor! sir," he said, "this 'ere horse will never
+carry me. He ain't got no shoulders!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Never mind," I replied. "Jump on him and
+try."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There was no saddle, and my man had to mount
+bare back. "Very good," I added, as the animal
+appeared to carry his burden without any difficulty,
+"take him round at a hard canter."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The little brute now began to pull hard, and
+bounded over the rough stones in a way that
+showed he was well accustomed to such obstacles.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Does he pull?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Pull, sir? He pulls my harms off!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This was enough for me, and I determined to
+buy the animal; as a horse that walks well, and
+will pull with fourteen stone on his back, is not
+a bad one for a long journey.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The next one produced for my inspection was
+covered with a rug, the other horses not being
+provided with any such clothing.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What is that for?" I inquired, pointing at the
+cloth.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_42' name='Page_42' href='#Page_42'>42</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Effendi, I put it on him because I was afraid
+that he might catch cold," replied the owner.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Never mind, take it off. When I buy horses
+I like to see them first."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He thinks, sir," remarked my faithful servant,
+"that we buy 'orses as they marry their wives—that
+is, without looking at them. I should not
+be surprised, sir, if that 'ere 'orse had a sore back."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The man's remark proved true, and on taking off
+the cloth a raw place of at least six inches square
+was exposed to view.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He has a sore back," I remarked to the owner.
+"Take him away."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Sore back! Yes, he has; it will soon get
+well. The Effendi would like this horse though,
+and he is a great friend of the horse the Effendi
+has just looked at—they eat out of the same
+manger. The Effendi had better buy him."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Get on that little bay," I said to my servant,
+not paying any attention to the Turk's observation.
+As my man went past at a trot, I heard a sound
+which at once made me aware that there was something
+the matter with the horse's wind.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He is a roarer," I remarked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Effendi, he makes a noise, but he is stout and
+strong. He would make a capital pack-horse."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The horse was sound in other particulars, and as
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_43' name='Page_43' href='#Page_43'>43</a></span>
+a roarer for slow marching is as good as any other
+animal, I determined to buy him—at the same
+time telling the owner that the fact of the horse's
+wind not being all right would considerably
+deteriorate from his value.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Deteriorate from his value!" said the man,
+his wall-eye glaring at me ferociously. "No,
+Effendi, he makes a little noise, but that is nothing;
+he is a useful horse, and when I let him out on
+hire in Constantinople he never runs over the
+blind beggars. He gives warning of his approach,
+and they hear him coming."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had by this time selected two more horses,
+and now came the knotty point of what price I
+was to give for the four.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How much do you want for them?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How much, Effendi? Sixty liras (Turkish
+pounds of 18<i>s.</i>) I want, and not a piastre less;
+even then I should be a ruined man."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Sixty liras! Sixty dogs and sixty sons of
+dogs!" I replied, attempting to address him in
+the language easiest understood by a Turkish
+peasant.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Ah! Effendi," said the horse-dealer, "you
+know the value. To you there is much brain, but
+the Effendi's eyes will show him that sixty liras
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_44' name='Page_44' href='#Page_44'>44</a></span>
+are nothing for the horses—besides, sixty liras,
+what are they? Sixty grains from the sand on
+the seashore to the gold in the Effendi's purse."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was not going to be bamboozled in that way:
+taking forty liras from my pocket, I showed him
+the money.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There," I said, "that is all I shall give you,
+and all that your horses are worth."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Look! forty liras!" The man attempted to
+impart to his countenance an indignant air, but
+the sight of the gold was too much for him. "Only
+forty liras!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," I said, "and if you will not sell them,
+I will buy my horses from another dealer," and I
+turned to go away.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, Effendi, do not stir!" cried the owner
+hastily. "But <i>forty</i> liras—let us say forty-one—one
+lira more—just one—for a baksheesh."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Very well," I said, and I handed him the
+money.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Meantime, Osman, the Turkish servant, led my
+newly-acquired property to a stable which he had
+engaged for me in the neighbourhood.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Later on in the afternoon I received a communication
+from my friend H——, in which he said
+that he had sent the grey horse to Constantinople
+by the bearer of the letter, but that the owner
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_45' name='Page_45' href='#Page_45'>45</a></span>
+of the animal would not take less than sixteen
+liras for him. As I had thoroughly tried the
+animal I determined to accept the offer, and my
+stud was now complete.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The final preparations for the journey were
+soon made. All the horses were fresh shod, and
+now I found that a Turkish horseshoe is very
+different to the one which we use in this country.
+It consists of a thin circular piece of iron, with a
+very small hole in the centre, not bigger than a
+shilling; almost the entire surface of the hoof
+being thus protected by the metal.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Two English saddles were bought for myself
+and Radford, a Turkish saddle was provided
+for Osman, and two pack-saddles for the baggage-horses.
+Saddle-bags, corn-sacks, and nose-bags
+had been also purchased, and a supply of tea
+and such other necessaries as would be difficult
+to obtain when once we had quitted the capital.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Everything was now ready for the start, so I
+hastened to say good-bye to my numerous friends.
+Whilst visiting one of them—an English lady—a
+Russian acquaintance called upon her, to solicit
+subscriptions for a hospital. This building, as it
+appeared, was being used for all classes of
+patients, and a prince at the Russian Embassy
+was at that time occupying one of the wards.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_46' name='Page_46' href='#Page_46'>46</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I went to see him yesterday," said the visitor.
+He complains dreadfully of the quietness of the
+establishment."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Perhaps he would like a barrel organ in the
+passage," observed my hostess.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"That is what I said to him," replied the lady.
+"If he had his own way, he would give a ball
+there before long."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It would rather astonish English people if they
+were told that a person holding the position of a
+Secretary of Embassy was inhabiting a building
+which in this country is reserved for the impecunious,
+but no one in Russia thinks anything of
+such matters; there are so many princes. Not
+many years ago, a prince could have been seen
+cleaning the visitors' boots at Dusaux's Hotel in
+Moscow.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was Friday, December the 8th, 1876. I
+have always been a disbeliever in the sailors'
+superstition about leaving a port on a Friday, and
+although several of my friends, particularly the
+Greek, entreated me to postpone my departure
+till the following day, I determined to run the
+risk of offending the Fates, and at once to commence
+my journey.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The street in front of the Hôtel Luxembourg
+was filled with a crowd of idlers from an early
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_47' name='Page_47' href='#Page_47'>47</a></span>
+hour. It had been rumoured about that the
+Giaour was mad enough to wish to go to Kars
+from Scutari by land, instead of by the Black Sea
+and Erzeroum, and that he was about to start.
+The Turk had spread the news. His friends and
+family had come to see him off. In the meantime,
+he himself was busily engaged in loading the
+pack-horses, but occasionally found time to
+glance superciliously at his admiring and awe-struck
+relatives. At last everything was ready;
+giving Osman the little travelling sword, I
+desired him to strap it round his waist. The
+crowd of relations were now more excited than
+before. The bystanders took the liveliest interest
+in the proceedings. "Osman has got a sword,"
+said one. "He is buckling it on," said another.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Osman's air of importance increased tenfold
+when I desired him to sling my little sporting-rifle
+on his shoulder. There was a faint approach
+to a cheer from a little boy in the crowd. This
+was instantly suppressed, and in the midst of all
+the excitement we rode down the streets of
+Pera.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Several friends of mine were staying at the
+Hôtel Royal; as we passed their windows they
+invited me to take a stirrup-cup, and in addition
+poured out a bumper for the Turk. However,
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_48' name='Page_48' href='#Page_48'>48</a></span>
+Osman could not be induced to drink. He was
+more particular in this respect than many of his
+fellow-countrymen. He handed the glass to
+Radford. The latter was not displeased at the
+Turk's religious scruples, as he thus got two
+glasses for himself instead of one. He at once
+tossed off the contents, and smiling benignantly
+returned the tumbler to his companion. I now
+shook hands with my friends at the Royal, and
+we continued our journey towards the port.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Good-bye, old fellow," cried my hospitable
+entertainers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We shall meet again soon," was my answer.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Let us hope this side of Hades," said another,
+and we rode onward towards Galata.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+An acquaintance, a Greek gentleman, accompanied
+me as far as the port. Here I discovered
+that one boat for Scutari had just
+started, and that it would be at least three
+hours before there would be another. This threw
+out my plans. I had wished to march my horses
+about five hours that day, but in consequence of
+the delay, and the shortness of the evenings at
+this season of the year, night would be on us before
+we had left Scutari.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The steamer arrived. A wide platform was
+pushed out from the deck to the shore, and two
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_49' name='Page_49' href='#Page_49'>49</a></span>
+carriages with some horses, belonging to a Turkish
+Bey, were taken on board. Then came Radford
+and Osman, each leading two horses: I followed
+with the little grey. The carriages and
+animals belonging to the Bey were placed towards
+the bow of the vessel, and the other horses near
+the engines.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sea was as calm as a duck-pond. In
+Osman's opinion it was unnecessary to tie up our
+steeds to the bulwarks. The animals which belonged
+to the Bey were simply held by their grooms,
+and stood quietly enough by the carriages. Everything
+looked <i>couleur de rose</i>, and I went up the
+ladder to a sort of raised deck, which arched over
+the place reserved for horses, cattle, and other
+merchandise. Here several Turkish ladies were
+sitting. They were engaged in sipping glasses full
+of water. One, who appeared to be the elder of the
+party, had some sugar in her pocket; producing
+it, she carefully sugared the tumblers of her companions,
+and then sugared her own. The faces of
+these ladies could be clearly seen through the very
+thin muslin texture which served them as veils.
+They were not prepossessing, and sadly wanted expression—a
+defect which I subsequently observed in
+almost every Turkish woman whose countenance I
+had the opportunity of seeing. We need not be surprised
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_50' name='Page_50' href='#Page_50'>50</a></span>
+at this. I have been informed by the Turks
+themselves that very few women, not one per
+1000, can read or write. They amuse themselves
+with gossip and eating. Their mental faculties
+become absorbed. They live for the moment, and
+pine after the coarser and more sensual pleasures.
+The domestic life in a Turkish family is often not a
+happy one; the elder and less favoured wives hate
+to desperation the more attractive and younger
+additions to the harem. The middle-aged spouse
+is goaded to madness at being deprived of those
+favours which the more comely wife is allowed to
+share. She endeavours to poison her lord's ear with
+respect to the new arrival. The jealous husband
+does not know what to believe, his home becomes a
+pandemonium.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Suddenly a loud report, followed by another, and
+then another, aroused me from my reflections;
+a tremendous noise could be heard below our feet,
+and men's voices expostulating in anger.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What had happened? One of the Turkish
+ladies let her tumbler fall, the faces of the other
+passengers became white. Was it a torpedo which
+General Ignatieff had set to blow up the Mohammedans,
+or had the engine burst?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I hurried downstairs. The first thing which
+met my gaze was the black horse, "Obadiah"—I
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_51' name='Page_51' href='#Page_51'>51</a></span>
+had named him after a favourite old charger—lying
+stretched out on deck, and my English servant
+seated on the animal's head. Osman was
+holding one end of the grey horse's halter, the
+animal amusing himself meanwhile by lashing out
+with his heels at the panels of the Bey's carriage.
+Fortunately the other horses had remained quiet.
+The Bey's servants, instead of attempting to save
+the panels of their master's carriage, vented their
+wrath by numerous expletives, and were keeping
+as far as possible from the scene of action.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, I'll be d—d!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This ejaculation, uttered in a strong Celtic
+accent, attracted my attention, as I was busily
+engaged holding up the grey's foreleg to keep
+him from doing any more damage to the Bey's
+vehicle. The forcible exclamation issued from
+the lips of an engineer who happened to be
+engaged on board the boat.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What has happened?" I asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Happened, sir! The Lord only knows. We
+were down below. There was an explosion on
+deck. I ran upstairs and saw smoke coming out
+of that box. All the horses were topsy-turvy."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The box in question contained about 500
+loaded cartridges, which I was taking for sporting
+purposes.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_52' name='Page_52' href='#Page_52'>52</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What does it all mean, Radford?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Lor, sir, it was that black 'orse Obadiah, as was
+the bottom of all the mischief. He is that artful.
+He stood quiet enough till we started and the
+paddles began to turn; he then began to kick,
+and frightened the grey. That 'ere Turk," pointing
+to Osman, "was a-praying by the side of the
+paddle-boxes, and not taking any account of the
+hanimals, drat him! Obadiah upset his pack-saddle
+and then stamped on the cartridge-box;
+some of them have gone off. Hosman left off
+praying and began to swear, that's all he did;
+and as for them there Turks in charge of the other
+'orses, they did nothing. Obadiah slipped up and
+I sat on his head to keep him quiet."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Luckily no great damage was done except to
+the Bey's carriage. We commenced putting the
+pack-saddle on Obadiah, but before this operation
+was completed our vessel arrived at Scutari. The
+steamer would only stop a few minutes at the
+port. There was no time to properly arrange
+the baggage. The greater part of it had to be
+carried out by hand. A crowd of idlers stood on
+the shore; some of them, recognizing Osman,
+came to help us in adjusting the saddle, each
+individual offering advice as to how the baggage
+should be strapped to the saddle; Osman meanwhile
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_53' name='Page_53' href='#Page_53'>53</a></span>
+talking to his friends about the awful
+danger which he had incurred, and how, had it
+not been for him, the steamer and all the passengers
+must inevitably have gone to the bottom.
+The Bey's carriage drove past us; the servants on
+the box vented their indignation at the damage
+done to their master's panels in some strong
+language. Osman answered them in a torrent of
+expletives, which, translated into Saxon, would
+frighten a Billingsgate fishwoman. The bystanders
+joined in the chorus, and it was some
+time before we were ready to start.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_54' name='Page_54' href='#Page_54'>54</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER V.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+Scutari—The resting-place of departed Turks—A frightened
+horse—Obadiah—Tea and sugar in the mud—A <i>rahvan</i>, or
+ambler—A runaway steed—Osman always praying whenever
+there is work to be done—The grave-digger—The
+Hammall—Radford—Through the swamp—The Khan at
+Moltape—A <i>mungo</i>.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The shades of evening were falling fast as we
+rode through the town. Presently, leaving behind
+the dirty lanes and filthy streets, the main
+features of Scutari, we emerged upon the open
+country. The road was in a dreadful state, at
+least a foot of black mud was piled on the strata
+below. In order the better to avoid the dirt we
+rode along a raised path which overhung the
+highway, Osman and Radford each leading a
+baggage-horse. In about half an hour we arrived
+at a place where the highway ascended rapidly
+for a few hundred yards. The footpath rose yet
+more abruptly, and here and there large sections
+of it had fallen into the road below. We were
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_55' name='Page_55' href='#Page_55'>55</a></span>
+passing by the cemetery at Scutari. Thousands
+of grave-stones which mark the resting-place
+of departed Turks lay scattered here and
+there. A deep silence reigned around, and the
+place appeared a desert, tenanted only by the
+dead. Suddenly I heard a noise behind me; a
+sound of horse's hoofs striking violently against
+some hard substance. I looked round. The first
+thing which met my gaze was the horse Obadiah,
+the source of all our previous difficulties, with his
+pack-saddle under the girth. In the hurry of re-saddling
+him at Scutari the yarn breastplate and
+crupper had not been well adjusted, nor had they
+been properly buckled. The saddle had turned,
+and Obadiah was amusing himself by a second
+time kicking at my cartridge-boxes, gun-case, and
+tins of tea and sugar. Clash went his iron hoof
+against one of the cases, away flew the white
+sugar into the black mud. A bang resounded
+from the gun-case, and that went spinning in
+another direction. Fortunately the boxes of
+cartridges had rolled to a little distance, and
+were just out of reach of the now infuriated
+beast's heels. Osman, in a moment of fear had
+released the animal's halter; dismounting from
+his own steed, he tried to get to Obadiah's head.
+This was by no means an easy task; the path
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_56' name='Page_56' href='#Page_56'>56</a></span>
+was very narrow, in fact there was barely room
+enough for a horse to walk. To reach the pack
+animal it was necessary to descend to the road,
+which lay some feet below us, and then climb up
+the steep and muddy bank.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Whilst this was being done I took charge of
+Osman's horse, the roarer, and which he had
+selected for his own riding, because, he said,
+the animal was a <i>rahvan</i> or ambler. He had
+rubbed his trousers when he made this remark,
+and had grinned complacently: by this gesture
+he sought to convey to my mind, that his skin
+was tender, and that he did not wish to be galled
+during the journey.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A noise in front now called my attention to
+that direction. The horse that Radford was
+leading had become alarmed, and in his struggles
+to release himself was half-way over the bank.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Let him go!" I cried to my servant, fearing
+that he would be dragged over the steep
+incline.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Down fell the animal on his back, and all the
+remainder of my luggage was covered with the
+slimy clay. The horse was a little shaken by the
+fall and did not attempt to rise—he lay prostrate
+and helpless in the midst of the havoc which he
+had created. Meantime Obadiah, who had been
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_57' name='Page_57' href='#Page_57'>57</a></span>
+frightened to death by the luggage which was
+hanging round his heels, had kicked away his
+trammels. Osman approached him from the
+bank, and tried to get to his head. It was in
+vain. The horse sprang back a yard or so,
+plunged and kicked, then slipping like his fellow
+steed, he rolled down the steep. He was none
+the worse for the fall, and bounding on his legs,
+dashed headlong along the road—his saddle
+and everything he had previously carried lying
+scattered in every direction.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sun by this time had long since set. It
+was nearly dark. Letting go Osman's horse, I
+galloped after the runaway, but it was useless;
+in a moment he disappeared from view. There
+was nothing to be done but to return to my
+party, and collect the luggage.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Our fate is a bad one," said Osman. "The
+horse—curse his mother—has gone, what shall
+be done? Praise be to Allah that the Effendi
+is not hurt." "I have worked very hard," he
+added.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is all your fault," I remarked angrily.
+"It would serve you right if I were to break
+your head. You ought to have seen that the
+pack-saddle was properly put on the horse at
+Scutari."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_58' name='Page_58' href='#Page_58'>58</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Saddle, Effendi? It was all owing to the
+saddle. It did not fit the horse."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What does he say, sir?" inquired the English
+servant.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Say?—confound him! he says it is the fault
+of the saddle."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Saddle, sir! no, it ain't. It is all the fault
+of his confounded praying. Why, whenever there
+is any work to be done, he is always down on his
+knees and a-banging his head against the ground.
+Real hard work his praying is, sir, and no mistake.
+I catched him at it this morning in the
+hotel; then he had another turn on board the
+steamer—and, look, sir, there he is again. Drat
+him, he has taken my coat to kneel on!" And
+rushing up, my servant dragged his property
+from beneath the prostrate Mohammedan.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We were some distance from Scutari, and
+about two hours from Moltape, a village in which
+I intended to pass the night. I determined to
+send Osman back to the town, and desired him
+to hire a Hammall, or man with a baggage-horse.
+In the meantime, Radford and myself could keep
+guard over our luggage.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The night grew darker and darker. The
+white grave-stones could be barely discerned.
+Leaving my English servant to sit upon the
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_59' name='Page_59' href='#Page_59'>59</a></span>
+luggage in the road, I waded through the mud
+to a cleaner spot in the cemetery. Sitting down
+on one of the broken monuments, I awaited
+Osman's arrival. Presently I heard the sound of
+steps close behind me. The locality does not
+bear a good reputation, so grasping my revolver,
+I prepared for an attack.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Peace be with you!" was the new comer's
+salutation, and in a few minutes I discovered that
+he was the grave-digger, or person in charge of
+the cemetery. His house, or hovel, was not far
+off, and he invited me to go there and share his
+fire. It would not have been safe to have left the
+luggage, so I declined the offer. Soon afterwards
+the sound of horses' hoofs in the distance announced
+the approach of Osman. He was accompanied
+by a Hammall. The latter, placing the
+fallen luggage upon his animal, jumped himself
+on the top of all.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We had better go back to Scutari, Effendi,"
+said Osman. "It is late; there will be no village
+for the next three hours. In Scutari there is
+good accommodation."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had no wish to turn back. We had already
+lost at least half a day through Osman's stupidity;
+I resolved to continue the march to Moltape,
+and halt there for the night. Osman could start
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_60' name='Page_60' href='#Page_60'>60</a></span>
+at daybreak for Scutari, and make inquiries about
+the lost horse.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Shall you find him?" I inquired of the
+Turk.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Find him, Effendi? of course I shall find
+him. I will not eat, drink, or sleep till my
+lord's property is restored;" by way of substantiating
+this statement, Osman took a piece of
+bread out of his pocket and began to eat.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well," I observed, "you said that you were
+going to starve till you had found my horse, and
+you are eating already."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is bad for a man with an empty stomach
+to be exposed to the night air. I shall be all the
+better able to look for the Effendi's horse to-morrow,
+and please God I will find him," was the
+answer.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We continued our journey through the deep
+mud, the Hammall riding in front as guide. The
+moon rose and threw her pale shadows on the
+scene. The Hammall, who was perched up on the
+top of a pile of luggage, uttered, from time to
+time, shrill cries. Cracks from his whip resounded
+from the flanks of his over-taxed steed.
+Radford rode pensively in rear; the bowl of a
+short wooden pipe glared with the red-hot ashes
+of some tobacco. Nothing ever seemed to afflict
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_61' name='Page_61' href='#Page_61'>61</a></span>
+my English servant. I was going to Kars—well,
+he must go too; if I had told him that I was
+going up in a fire balloon, he would have been
+equally ready to accompany me. I wish we had
+four hundred thousand men like him in the
+British army. The soldier who will ask no questions,
+will go where you like, and die in his
+place if you tell him to do so, is preferable,
+in my mind, to the more educated individual
+who reflects, weighs probabilities, and sometimes
+runs away.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now a light appeared in the distance, and then
+another. The swamp through which we had
+been riding was gradually replaced by harder soil.
+A few whitewashed cottages were met with at
+intervals along our path. Presently we rounded
+a corner, and a large village was exposed to view.
+The Hammall rode up to a house which was
+detached from the rest, and in the centre of the
+town. He leaped from his horse, and, coming to
+my side, held the stirrup-leather for me to dismount.
+We had arrived at a Khan, or resting-place
+for travellers. On lifting up the latch,
+or rather pulling at a piece of string which was
+used as a substitute for a handle, the door
+opened.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I found myself in a large, low room. So soon
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_62' name='Page_62' href='#Page_62'>62</a></span>
+as my eyes became accustomed to the dense atmosphere,
+I discovered that almost all the available
+space was filled with soldiery. On one side of the
+room there were a succession of broad wooden
+shelves, ascending towards the roof, these too
+were tenanted. It was difficult to put a foot down
+upon the floor without treading upon the face
+or body of some follower of the Prophet. The
+smell which arose from so much humanity was
+anything but agreeable. A <i>mungo</i>, or circular
+iron pan on a tripod, was filled with burning
+charcoal, and placed on a stool so as to be removed
+from the immediate vicinity of the sleepers.
+It gave out a blue and sulphurous flame. The
+charcoal had not been properly burned through
+previous to being placed in the <i>mungo</i>. It added
+some poisonous fumes to the unhealthy atmosphere.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_63' name='Page_63' href='#Page_63'>63</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER VI.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+The proprietor of the establishment—<i>Lingua franca</i>—Gold, not
+paper—Gold a charm to the Greek—No rooms—The Onbashee—His
+costume—The guard-house—A queer place—"<i>At
+gitdi!</i> the horse has gone!"—The Pacha at Scutari—The
+corporal's demeanour when offered a tip—A beautiful
+country—The bay of Ismid—A goose plump as a Georgian
+woman—A Zaptieh—The chief of the telegraph department
+in Ismid—A grievance—The appearance of Ismid—Washing-day—The
+Pacha of Ismid—Mr. Gladstone—"Gladstone
+is what you call a Liberal, is he not?"—The
+Turkish debt—Russian agents bring about massacres of
+Christians.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The proprietor of the establishment, a Greek,
+slowly raised himself from a recumbent position.
+His head was bound up in what appeared to be a
+red stocking; the toe part of this article of attire
+hung carelessly over his left shoulder. He was a
+dirty-looking little fellow, and had a large wen
+on one side of his forehead. Nature had determined
+to make him as hideous as possible, and
+some fellow-mortal had added to her handiwork,
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_64' name='Page_64' href='#Page_64'>64</a></span>
+for a large scar, barely cicatrized, and apparently
+inflicted by a knife, extended right across his face.
+This scar and the wen were, in the daytime, a perpetual
+resort for blue-bottle flies. These insects,
+I subsequently observed, had a great affection for
+the frontispiece of the proprietor.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What do you want?" he asked in <i>lingua
+franca</i>, that undefined mixture of Italian, French,
+Greek, and Spanish, which is spoken throughout
+the Mediterranean.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I want a place to sleep in."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Place to sleep in? Sleep here," and he
+slowly subsided into his original position.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Osman now began to address him, and in a
+whining tone said that I was his Effendi, a great
+person with gold, not paper, in my pocket, and that
+I would pay liberally for accommodation. The allusion
+to the gold acted like a charm upon the Greek.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Gold!" he said. "Gold! Let me see it!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I took out a lira (Turkish pound), and spinning
+it carelessly in the air, let it fall on an earthenware
+dish. The coin gave out a metallic ring.
+The Greek clutched at the fallen lira; but the
+nimble Osman was too quick for him, and picking
+it up returned it to me.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I have no rooms but this," said the proprietor
+eagerly; "but I have a stable. Why not sleep in
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_65' name='Page_65' href='#Page_65'>65</a></span>
+the stable? You want a stable for your horses, and
+I will put down some clean straw for the Effendi."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Our horses were all this time tied up to a post
+outside. I was on the point of accepting his
+offer, so as to gain shelter for them as well as for
+ourselves, when the door opened. A strange
+figure loomed in sight.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Onbashee (corporal)," said the proprietor
+in a cringing tone, springing to his feet; and
+seizing several soldiers who were asleep on a
+bench, he rolled them on to the floor, thus making
+room for the new arrival. The latter, a dumpy-looking
+man, with a fez on his head, red
+regimental trousers, and a short yellow dressing-gown,
+sat down on the bench, and beckoned to
+me to sit by his side. The occupants of the room
+by this time were thoroughly aroused. A small
+boy, the exact counterpart of the proprietor minus
+the scar and wen, speedily made some coffee.
+The fragrant beverage was duly handed first to
+the Onbashee and myself, and then to Osman and
+Radford, the head of the latter being in close
+proximity to the ceiling of the establishment.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I addressed the corporal, and told him that
+I was an English traveller, who wanted a night's
+lodging.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"English!" he cried, then springing to his feet
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_66' name='Page_66' href='#Page_66'>66</a></span>
+he respectfully saluted, and said, "I thought,
+Effendi, that you were an Italian or a countryman
+of the Greek here," pointing to the proprietor of
+the place. "Come along, sir," leaving the building,
+he led me to a small building, apparently
+a guard-house, for in the room below there were
+ten soldiers, some rifles and accoutrements being
+suspended on a rack on the wall. Ascending
+a few rickety stairs, I entered a small lobby. It
+was about ten feet square, and had no furniture
+save a wooden ledge.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"This is my room," said the Onbashee. "You
+and the other Englishman can sleep here. I will
+sleep downstairs with the men." Then bringing
+two blankets he threw them down on the ledge,
+saluted in a military fashion, and disappeared.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Queer place, sir," said Radford, looking round.
+"However, it is better than the hole downstairs.
+Shall I sleep here, sir, or in the stable?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"On the floor," I replied. "Go and look
+after the horses, and then bring up some
+rugs."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At daybreak Osman started for Scutari in
+search of the lost horse. A few hours later I
+took my gun, and went to see if I could find any
+snipe in a marsh near the town. About six p.m.
+Osman returned. It was easy to see from his
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_67' name='Page_67' href='#Page_67'>67</a></span>
+crestfallen face that he had heard no news of the
+lost Obadiah.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"<i>At Gitdi!</i> The horse has gone, Effendi," he
+said. "I have been to every farm-house near
+here, and no one has seen a black gelding with
+his tail cut short. Praise be to Allah that I cut
+all the horses' tails before starting; our animal
+will be different from the others in the neighbourhood,
+and will be easily distinguished."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I went to the Pacha at Scutari," he added,
+"he has given orders to the police to search
+for the horse. When he is found, he will be sent
+after the Effendi by train to Ismid."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Gitdi</i> (it has gone), I began to hate that word.
+Later on, if our tea had been stolen, Osman invariably
+greeted me with <i>gitdi</i>. It is the first word which
+a traveller in Turkey hears, he is kept in mind
+of it during his entire journey. There was nothing
+to be done but to hire another baggage-horse, and
+give orders for a start at daybreak.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A few minutes before leaving Moltape, I went to
+the corporal, and put in his hand a dollar (medjidi),
+in return for the accommodation he had given me.
+There were several soldiers present. He declined
+the present with a grandiose air, adding that his
+home was mine, and that all strangers were
+welcome to the abode. However, a few minutes
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_68' name='Page_68' href='#Page_68'>68</a></span>
+later, when I was alone, he approached, and putting
+out his hand, said, "Effendi, no one is looking,
+I will accept a present." Human nature in
+all countries is much the same. The corporal's
+demeanour before the soldiers much resembled
+that of a railway porter when offered a tip in the
+presence of a railway director.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We rode through a beautiful country. Our
+track lay across a plain. It was surrounded
+by undulating hills. Pretty villas with Venetian
+windows decked their crests. Vines, fig, and other
+fruit trees studded the rising slopes. A few hours
+later the path became very bad. We made our
+way across deep, half hidden ruts, which compelled
+us to advance with the greatest care for fear of
+breaking the horses' legs.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We ascend a steep incline, and then, far away
+in the distance, and across the bay of Ismid, are
+cone-shaped hills covered with fleecy snow.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The path turned, we rode along the seashore.
+The railway ran along the side of the track, now
+ascending in tortuous coils, now disappearing
+altogether from our view, to appear once more in
+the distance, and almost level with the azure
+deep. Not a ripple disturbed the surface of the
+waters; coloured rocks and stones met our gaze
+as we glanced into the abyss below; festoons
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_69' name='Page_69' href='#Page_69'>69</a></span>
+of variegated sea-weed hung from the rugged
+cliffs.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sun's rays were fierce and scorching. In
+spite of its being the month of December, there
+was a glare as if on a July day. I was not sorry
+when, on reaching the crest of an adjacent hill,
+Osman dismounted, and suggested a halt for lunch.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"A capital spot, Effendi," he remarked, "there
+is a spring of fresh water, a cave, and firewood.
+I have a beautiful goose, plump as a Georgian
+woman, in the saddle-bags. My brother," pointing
+to Radford, "shall cook him. Our stomachs
+grieve now, but soon they shall be comforted."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He led the way to a sort of cavity in the rock.
+A fire was kindled, and the goose, the subject of
+Osman's admiration, was shortly simmering on the
+embers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Presently the track became worse, if possible,
+than before. Several wooden bridges over deep
+and narrow gullies had to be crossed. There were
+no parapets to the bridges. Here and there
+holes a foot square let us see the stream below.
+Then we traversed lanes of water, in some places
+up to the horses' girths. The Hammall went
+first, and wended his way with caution. Two
+ditches skirted the borders of the track; the rain
+had fallen heavily, and had one of our horses
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_70' name='Page_70' href='#Page_70'>70</a></span>
+made a mistake or floundered, his rider would have
+found himself in at least six feet of water.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We were nearing Ismid, the Nicomedia of
+ancient history. Our tired animals seemed aware
+of its proximity; they quickened their pace. Very
+shortly afterwards we rode into the town. I had
+sent forward a messenger to tell the chief of the
+police that an English traveller was coming to
+Ismid, and to ask him to provide me with lodgings
+for the night, there being no hotels in the place.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was met at the entrance of the town by a
+Zaptieh, or gendarme. Going before us, he led
+the way to a house kept by a Greek. Here I
+found two clean rooms furnished in the European
+fashion. The Zaptieh, after inquiring if I had
+any orders to give him, left the room, saying that
+he would report my safe arrival to the Pacha.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On the morrow I received a visit from the chief of
+the Telegraph department in Ismid—an Armenian
+who spoke French. On showing him a letter of
+introduction which I had received at Constantinople,
+for the Christian dignitaries in Ismid, he at
+once became very communicative, and hastened to
+relate a grievance which, according to him, an
+Armenian had lately suffered owing to Turkish
+misrule. It appeared that this man had borrowed
+money from a Turk, and had given his wife's earrings
+and necklace as security for the debt. The
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_71' name='Page_71' href='#Page_71'>71</a></span>
+arrangements for the loan had been made in the
+presence of my informant. "But now," he continued,
+"comes the pith of the story. The Turk
+died. The Armenian, paying the debt to the
+dead man's heirs, asked for his wife's necklace
+and earrings. The Turk's family would not give
+them up. The Armenian appealed to the Cadi.
+The Cadi would not do justice, because it was the
+word of a Christian against the testimony of a
+Turk; and in such instances an Armenian's evidence
+goes for nothing. However," added the
+speaker, "I telegraphed to the authorities in
+Constantinople. An order at once came for justice
+to be done."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Later on I walked through the town. It is
+built in the form of a half-moon, and is erected on
+the heights around the shore. Tiers and tiers of
+houses are perched up in out-of-the-way corners.
+Here a solitary one stands aloof like an eagle's
+nest and far above its fellows. No order has
+been followed in the construction of these houses.
+Every sort of shape and pattern is to be seen.
+Many of them are like Swiss chalets. Their
+wooden walls are bright with an infinite variety of
+hues.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was, apparently, a washing-day. The nether
+garments and shirts of Turks and Christians
+were suspended from every window-sill. This
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_72' name='Page_72' href='#Page_72'>72</a></span>
+apparel was of all the colours in the rainbow, and
+lit up the scene still more. There were a few
+well-built stone buildings—amongst them the
+palace of the Pacha. I called upon this official in
+the afternoon, and found him a tall, fine-looking
+man, considerably over six feet in height. He was
+seated in European fashion upon a sofa, and not
+squatted on the floor like some others of his countrymen
+who were present at the time of my visit.
+He spoke French fluently, and also Russian,
+having spent some years in the Turkish Consulate
+in Odessa; his residence there had not inspired
+him with any affection for the subjects of the
+Tzar, whom he cordially detested.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Your minister, Mr. Gladstone, hates us poor
+Turks quite as much as the Russians do," presently
+remarked the Pacha.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Mr. Gladstone is not a minister," I remarked,
+"he is not by any means omnipotent in England.
+A great many of my countrymen have
+already evinced their sympathy for your nation."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," said the Pacha, "that is true, they
+have sent medicines to our wounded soldiery.
+Gladstone is what you call a Liberal, is he not?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He is one of the leaders of the Liberal Party,
+and was its chief till he was turned out by the
+actual Government."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_73' name='Page_73' href='#Page_73'>73</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Ah! I remember," said the Pacha. "He
+told the people of England that they must not
+drink after certain hours, and quarrelled with
+your priests. I read all about it in the newspapers.
+It struck me as strange conduct in a
+man who calls himself a 'Liberal.' Has he many
+friends in Parliament?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, but not so many as formerly; his conduct
+about this Eastern question has drawn away
+some of his most influential supporters."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, at all events if there is war, please God
+we shall be allies."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Please God we shall," I replied devoutly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You know," he continued, "that we are much
+stronger than people in Europe believe. We can
+put an army of 700,000 men into the field."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Praise be to Allah!" interrupted an elderly
+Turk who was squatted on the carpet, at the same
+time gravely stroking his white beard.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why is it that the people in England hate us
+so much?" inquired the Pacha.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Partly on account of the excesses of your
+irregular soldiers in Bulgaria; but mainly because
+you repudiated your debt. How should you like
+to have lent money and then to receive no
+interest?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Pacha laughed.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_74' name='Page_74' href='#Page_74'>74</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, you are right. It was a great mistake.
+But that is all Russia's fault. Her agents
+brought about the revolution in the Herzegovina.
+Her functionaries encouraged Sultan Abdul Aziz
+in his extravagance, and were the main cause of
+the debt being repudiated. They thought that
+this would make us unpopular with England, and
+they were very right in their conjectures. There
+is plenty of wealth in Turkey," he continued. "If
+it were not for the impending war, we could pay
+some part of our interest now; but Russia will not
+let us be quiet. She compels us to keep up a
+large army. Her agents bring about massacres of
+Christians, and set the whole world against us."<a name='FA_5' id='FA_5' href='#FN_5' class='fnanchor'>[5]</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"If there is a war, I hope that we shall cut the
+throats of all the Russians," interrupted the old
+gentleman on the carpet.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Allah grant that we may!" exclaimed the rest
+of the assembly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Coffee and pipes were now handed round, and
+my interview came to an end. The Pacha having
+kindly given orders for a telegram to be sent to
+Scutari, to inquire if anything had been heard of
+my runaway horse.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_75' name='Page_75' href='#Page_75'>75</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER VII.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+An Armenian Bishop—An economical refreshment—Ramazan—Smoking
+in the streets—The Turkish Government is not
+so bad—The Koran and a Christian witness—A telegram
+from the Pacha at Scutari—A post-horse to Sabanja—Two
+Zaptieh—Turkish swords—A horse lost—Four feet of mud—An
+ox-cart upset in the mud—Woe-begone drivers—A
+priest during the Carlist war—Turks and Christians have
+an extreme dislike to the dread ordeal—Circassian Bashi
+Bazouks—Women ravished and then butchered by the
+Russians—Sabanja—Scenery—There was to have been a
+railway—A mule in difficulties.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the evening I called upon an Armenian Bishop.
+He lived in a quaint old-fashioned house in
+the Christian quarter of the town, the Turks
+and Armenians inhabiting different districts in
+Ismid, as in many other Turkish cities. Refreshments
+were now brought in on a silver tray, and
+several kinds of jam handed round in little silver
+dishes. The guest taking a spoonful of jam is
+expected to swallow it, he then drinks a glass of
+water. This is an economical refreshment, a very
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_76' name='Page_76' href='#Page_76'>76</a></span>
+little jam goes a long way in the entertainment.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How do you like it?" said one of the party.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Very good," I replied, at the same time
+having that sort of feeling in my mouth which
+carried my memory back to boyish days, and to the
+grey powders which my old nurse used to administer,
+"very good."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We always treat our guests in this manner,"
+said an old Armenian pompously. "It is the
+custom of our nation."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now the conversation turned upon the Turks in
+Ismid, and it was pleasant to hear that some of
+the Turkish officials were well spoken of, even by
+the Armenians.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The chief of the police here is a capital
+fellow," observed one of the company. "During
+the Ramazan, one of our people was smoking in
+the streets, a Mohammedan went up to him and
+struck him with a stick. The chief of the police,
+who happened to be passing by, saw this. He
+approached and said, 'Why did you strike that
+man?' 'Because he was smoking during
+Ramazan.' 'Did he put his cigarette in your
+eye?' 'No,' 'Then you had no business to
+strike him. You shall go to prison and learn to
+behave better for the future?'"
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_77' name='Page_77' href='#Page_77'>77</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," said another of the guests; "the
+Turkish papers published the story, and highly
+praised the conduct of the official."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Turkish Government is not so bad,"
+observed a third gentleman. "It wishes justice
+to be carried out impartially throughout the
+empire, but, so long as the Cadis refuse to take
+the word of a Christian as evidence, it will be
+difficult for us to live with any degree of comfort."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"After all," he continued, "this is an abuse
+which has crept in amidst the Turkish officers.
+The Koran says that the testimony of a Christian
+witness is to be taken as evidence, but nowadays
+many of the Mohammedans have forgotten the
+Koran."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the evening a telegram arrived from the
+Pacha at Scutari. It was to the effect that nothing
+had been heard of my horse; however, so soon as
+the animal was found he should be sent after me.
+This would have been useless. There was no rail
+beyond Ismid, and I intended to start the following
+morning. In consequence of this, I wrote to
+a friend at the British Embassy, to ask him, in
+the event of the horse being found, to have the
+animal sold at the market in Constantinople.
+Meantime I sent Osman to hire a post-horse to
+carry my baggage as far as Sabanja, a small
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_78' name='Page_78' href='#Page_78'>78</a></span>
+village about twenty miles from Ismid, and on the
+road to Angora. Just as we were leaving Ismid,
+two Zaptieh or mounted police rode up. They
+had been ordered by the Pacha to escort me as
+far as Sabanja. Smart-looking fellows they were,
+too, with light blue jackets, red trousers, and
+Hessian boots. Each of them carried a repeating-rifle
+slung across his shoulder. Revolvers were
+stuck in the crimson sashes which encircled their
+waists. Short scimitars, but with no hilt-guards
+to protect the hand, were slung from their sword-belts.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is singular that the Turkish military authorities,
+who have adopted the modern armament in
+so far as fire-arms are concerned, should be still so
+backward in the manufacture of swords. A cavalry
+soldier armed with a Turkish sword without a hilt-guard
+would have very little chance if engaged
+in a hand-to-hand encounter with a dragoon
+supplied with one of our own weapons.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After riding for about half an hour in the
+direction of Sabanja, Radford—who was leading
+a pack-horse, remarked to Osman,—
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What have you done with the post-horse?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Turk did not understand the question.
+When it was interpreted to him, he replied,—
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The animal is in front with the Zaptieh."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_79' name='Page_79' href='#Page_79'>79</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As it is always as well to put a Turk's statement
+to the test, I determined to trot on ahead
+and look for myself. The Zaptieh had not seen
+the horse. It appeared that after loading him,
+Osman had started the animal, much in the same
+way as an Irishman does a pig, with the object
+of driving him before our party. We now all
+dispersed in different directions, and finally, after
+a two hours' search, discovered the animal tied
+up by the side of a Khan, an old woman who
+had observed the horse wandering about having
+attached him to a post.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The track now became much worse than anything
+I had previously seen. In many places
+there were quite four feet of mud. It reached
+our horses' girths, and with the greatest difficulty
+we were able to force a passage.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Presently we came to a hollow in the path.
+Here a cart drawn by four oxen was at a standstill.
+The bullocks, with only their necks and shoulders
+out of the mud, gazed plaintively before them.
+The two drivers had taken off their trousers and
+under-clothes; their shirts were tucked up to their
+armpits; they waded through the black slime,
+and goaded the bullocks forward.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A creaking noise was heard from the ponderous
+wheels. The four bullocks put forth all their
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_80' name='Page_80' href='#Page_80'>80</a></span>
+strength; it was a useless effort, one of them
+pulled the cart a little to one side, the next
+instant it was upset and half buried in the mire.
+The two men with naught on them save little red
+fez caps and with their tucked-up shirts, presented
+a doleful picture. They were not burdened
+with much flesh, and ribs and shoulder
+bones were prominently thrown into relief by the
+coating of mud which reached as high as their
+waists. One poor fellow, wading up to us, asked
+Osman to give him a light for his pipe. The
+other one, looking more woe-begotten, if possible,
+than his fellow, had no pipe, and mournfully asked
+for a cigarette.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Effendi," said Osman, "this is a dreadful
+place. We may be upset. Our horses will not
+get through. Better go back to Ismid and wait
+there till the mud becomes hard."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No; go on. Horses can march where
+bullocks cannot."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Osman turned white, he was riding a little in
+advance of me, and did not at all like being sent
+forward to experiment upon the depth of the mire.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He is a poor creature," observed Radford,
+contemptuously, "Lor, sir, what else can we
+expect of them? They don't drink no beer. They
+turn hup their noses at wine. Hosman's blood
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_81' name='Page_81' href='#Page_81'>81</a></span>
+ain't no thicker than ditch-water—I will lay a
+pound it ain't."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Our saddle-bags were covered with mud when
+we gained a footing on the other side. Osman,
+riding up to my side, congratulated himself on
+having guided us through in safety.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Your face was very white," I observed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, Effendi, my blood had turned to milk.
+It was not for myself, it was for the Effendi.
+I thought that he might be suffocated. Osman is
+yours, you can do with him what you like."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All these were very pretty speeches; however,
+I had been sufficiently often in the East to know
+how to appreciate them at their true value. I felt
+tolerably certain that if Osman's courage was
+ever put to the test, he would be found to value
+his existence in this world more than the society
+of a million beautiful wives in the world to come.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After all, he would have been no exception to
+mankind in general. I remember during the last
+Carlist war hearing a story about a priest who,
+on the eve of an expected battle, addressed the
+soldiers in his battalion, and informed them that
+whoever was slain in the morrow's fight should
+sup with Nuestro Señor in Paradise. The
+morrow came, the battle raged, and the Carlists
+were beaten—the priest's battalion being the first
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_82' name='Page_82' href='#Page_82'>82</a></span>
+to run away, headed by the divine himself, who,
+tucking up his cassock, ran as fast as his legs
+could carry him. A soldier touched the reverend
+gentleman on the shoulder, and said, "You
+told us, my father, that whoever was slain in
+to-day's fight should sup in Paradise, but you are
+running away." "My son," replied the Cura, who
+was very much out of breath, "I, I—never sup—I
+suffer from a weak digestion—I only dine."
+Some people in England believe that a doctrine of
+predestination makes the Turkish soldiers indifferent
+to death. This may be true in a few
+isolated instances; but, as a rule, both Turks and
+Christians have an extreme dislike to the dread
+ordeal.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The track became firmer. We overtook some
+Bashi Bazouks returning from Bulgaria. They
+were most of them Circassians, and one could
+speak Russian. He was very indignant at having
+been ordered home, and brandishing his long
+lance, with bright steel point at least twelve
+inches long, regretted that he had lost the
+opportunity of transfixing a few giaour Russians.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Did you kill many women?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There were some killed," he replied. "It
+was a pity. We were sorry for it; but what
+would you have our men do? Some of their own
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_83' name='Page_83' href='#Page_83'>83</a></span>
+mothers and sisters had been ravished and then
+butchered by the Russians."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Have any of your relatives been treated in
+this way?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No," he said, "but in a village not far from
+Gumri, some horrible cruelties have recently
+taken place, many women and children were
+slain, and all because they wished to leave Russia
+and go to Turkey."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"If my mother or sister had been killed, I
+should not be particular as to how I avenged her,"
+he continued. "These cowardly Russians set us
+the example."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There was no sort of similarity in the attire of
+the Bashi Bazouks. Each man had dressed himself
+according to his fancy; the broad sashes
+around their waists were stuck full of pistols and
+daggers. The fire-arms, too, were of the most
+primitive kind; some men had old-fashioned muskets
+of the Tower pattern, and others were armed
+with double-barrelled guns, which had been converted
+from flint to percussion. Their horses
+looked hard and fit for work, they were as a rule
+not more than fourteen hands high, and their
+rough shaggy coats reminded me a little of
+the Cossack horses which I have seen in the
+neighbourhood of the Don.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_84' name='Page_84' href='#Page_84'>84</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The scenery improves as we approach Sabanja.
+The flat country previously traversed
+gives way to rising mountains. They bound our
+view towards the West. On my bridle-hand is a
+wide lake. It lies like a mirror almost at our
+feet. Many coloured grasses and shrubs clothe
+the slopes which lead down to the limpid water.
+Acres upon acres of rich grass-land—such as
+would make the mouth of a Leicestershire farmer
+water with envy—surround Sabanja on every side.
+We ride into the village; it consists of about
+200 houses, mostly built of dried mud, and
+with much difficulty I obtain accommodation for
+the night.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Long before daybreak we were in the saddle.
+Our road wound through mountain passes. Huge
+clouds of mist slowly rose from the surface of the
+lake: they floated away into space, and appeared
+like icebergs as seen in the horizon. Now we rode
+by a place where preparations had been made for
+the construction of a railway. Sleepers were
+lying by the side of a partly-made embankment.
+On inquiry, no work had been going on for
+two years. There was to have been a railway to
+Angora, but "Para yoke, there is no money,"
+was the answer to my questions on the subject.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Presently we came up to a caravan of mules
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_85' name='Page_85' href='#Page_85'>85</a></span>
+laden with tea and bound for Angora. The
+road was very narrow, there was barely room for
+two horses abreast. One mule, turning his head
+towards the bank, blocked up the entire path; a
+blow from our Zaptieh's whip recalled him to consciousness.
+Backing a few yards he slipped, and
+rolled with his burden down the slope. The
+owner cursed, and the other muleteers coming up
+seemed rather to enjoy his discomforture.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_86' name='Page_86' href='#Page_86'>86</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER VIII.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+Camels—The Sakaria—Geiweh—Yakoob Khan—Kashgar—The
+Greeks in league with the Tzar—The Kara Su—A
+strategic position—Terekli—Bashi Bazouks firing at a
+target—The river Goonook—A black slave—Gondokoro—Abou
+Saood—How to become rich—Set a slave to catch a
+slave—<i>Sharab</i> makes one gay—Mudurlu—Absence of
+shops—<i><span lang="fr_FR">Toujours poulet</span></i>—English manufactures in Anatolia—A
+Circassian Zaptieh—A precipice—A baggage-horse
+upset.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The road became more level. We encountered
+caravans of camels, the animals not being
+led by a cord attached to a peg through the
+nose, but by a halter loosely fastened round the
+neck.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+They were fine beasts and covered with shaggy
+hair. This, I was informed, is cut off them at
+certain seasons in the year, and is then converted
+into a material for tents and rugs. Each caravan
+was headed by a man riding a donkey, the pace of
+the latter being if anything a little superior to
+that of the huge camels behind them.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_87' name='Page_87' href='#Page_87'>87</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We continued along the left bank of the river
+Sakaria, a rapid stream, sixty yards wide and with
+steep banks; presently we crossed it on a stone
+bridge, very much out of repair. The centre part
+had fallen away. This had been replaced by wooden
+beams covered with loose earth. Presently we
+came to a large valley abounding with corn, vines,
+and mulberry-trees, and I halted for the night in
+the village of Geiweh. The Mudir, a sort of local
+mayor, came out to meet us, and insisted that I
+should be his guest. He was a very communicative
+man, and informed me that Yakoob Khan
+was about to bring an army of 50,000 men to
+assist the Sultan.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How will he come?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"By the sea," remarked my host, his geographical
+knowledge about Kashgar not being very
+extensive. He next informed me that Persia was
+supposed to be very friendly towards Russia, and
+that the Turks hated the Persians, but liked the
+Christians, with the exception of the Greeks,
+whom they believed to be in league with the
+Tzar.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Shortly after leaving Geiweh, the valley takes a
+circular form, and is at least three miles in
+diameter; hills with slopes well adapted for
+artillery fire surround it on every side. The
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_88' name='Page_88' href='#Page_88'>88</a></span>
+little stream Kara Su, which is only knee deep,
+traverses the district, and finds its way a few miles
+further down into the Sakaria. The Geiweh valley
+would be a magnificent position into which to entice
+a careless general. The exit towards the east is
+by a steep ravine with precipitous banks, and on
+the west it is blocked by the Sakaria.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We now reached Terekli, a small town with
+about 800 houses. Every house was full of soldiers,
+who were <i>en route</i> to the capital. The sun
+was descending over the mountain tops as we
+rode through the narrow streets. Hundreds of
+Bashi Bazouks were performing wild evolutions in
+the plain below; some men were firing at a target
+from horseback at a gallop, others whirling their
+rifles about to the imminent danger of the bystanders.
+The many coloured dresses of this
+guerilla soldiery and of the lookers-on, lit up the
+surroundings of the landscape. The wild shouts
+of the horsemen re-echoed over the mountains.
+From the distant peaks the bleating of the goats
+could be faintly heard, as the shepherds were driving
+them home for shelter. This sound was
+mingled with the lowing of cattle and the rippling
+of the stream below. It was a romantic picture.
+It vividly recalled to my mind some scenes
+in the Basque provinces during the late Carlist war.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_89' name='Page_89' href='#Page_89'>89</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The soldiers started at four the following morning,
+singing in chorus as they marched through
+the streets. An hour later we continued our
+journey through a mountainous district strewed
+with blocks of granite, and soon afterwards crossed
+the little river Goonook, another tributary of the
+Sakaria.<a name='FA_6' id='FA_6' href='#FN_6' class='fnanchor'>[6]</a> Here the scenery is very wild; the hills
+are of all shapes and forms, as if cast down at
+haphazard by the Titans of old. Now we find a
+series of natural bastions and ramparts, looking
+as if they had been chiselled out of the hard white
+rocks, and then approach a slate mountain, large
+black stones lying about in endless profusion.
+Presently we ride along a path bounded on
+both sides by a precipice. Our track twines like
+a silver thread amidst the crags which hide the
+way before us.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We round a corner. A small village is seen
+below, Torbali is reached, and a Bey, the great
+man of the place, invites us to share his dwelling.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A little later, a black slave brought me as a
+present from his master, some small trout and
+fresh eggs. The slave could talk Arabic. He
+had been born near Gondokoro, and had been
+kidnapped from that part of the world by a party
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_90' name='Page_90' href='#Page_90'>90</a></span>
+of Arabs under Sir Samuel Baker's <i>bête noir</i>, Abou
+Saood. I asked him if he would like to return to
+his own country.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," he said, "if the Effendi is going there with
+Abou Saood. We could then catch plenty of slaves."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I know where to find them," he added, "we
+should soon become rich."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There is an old proverb, "Set a thief to catch a
+thief," but here it seemed equally applicable to
+slaves. I was struck by the extreme eagerness to
+kidnap his countrymen which was evinced by this
+negro gentleman.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well," I said, "how are you treated by your
+master?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He is a good man," was the reply, "there is
+plenty to eat, and not much to do."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"One thing is bad here," he added, "the master
+does not drink <i>sharab</i> (wine). I like <i>sharab</i>—lots
+of <i>sharab</i>, it makes one gay. Will the Effendi
+give me a little <i>sharab</i>?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I have not any. I do not drink myself."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"And yet you are rich," said the slave. "You
+have money to buy it, happy man that you are.
+If I were like you I would drink, drink, drink,
+all day and all night!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But Osman does not drink, he attends to the
+Prophet's laws."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_91' name='Page_91' href='#Page_91'>91</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Osman is a horse; he does not know what is
+good," was the reply.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At this moment the voice of the Bey was heard.
+"<i>Gell!</i>" (come) resounded through the building;
+the negro, leaving me, hurried off to his master.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was a nine hours' march to Mudurlu, our
+next halting-place, the route leading through a
+very mountainous district. The village, or small
+town, of Mudurlu contains 800 mud houses, which,
+at the average rate of five people to a family,
+would give about 4000 inhabitants. The traveller,
+when journeying in this part of Anatolia, is much
+struck by the absence of shops. He may pass
+through village after village, small town after
+small town, and, unless it be market day, he will
+be unable to purchase anything.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Can I buy some meat?" I would inquire of
+Osman.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We will see, Effendi. I will run to the Khan,
+and inquire of the people there."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This was Osman's favourite amusement. Under
+the pretence of making purchases, he would go to
+the different Khans, talk for some time to the
+assembled villagers about his own merits, drink
+several cups of coffee, and return.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, where is the meat?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Effendi, there is no meat."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_92' name='Page_92' href='#Page_92'>92</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Have you been to look?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Look, Effendi! My clothes are moist with
+perspiration. But there are some chickens; they
+will do for our dinner."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This was the daily food—chicken. It is not a
+bad diet if a man is living a sedentary life, and not
+taking much exercise, but after a nine hours' ride
+he requires something a little more nourishing.
+<i><span lang="fr_FR">Toujours perdrix</span></i> was too much for a French cardinal;
+if the holy gentleman had been riding
+through Turkey, he would have found <i><span lang="fr_FR">toujours
+poulet</span></i> an equally unsubstantial diet. A crowd
+assembled to see us depart. The people in
+Mudurlu taking as much interest in an Englishman
+as the inhabitants of London would take in
+a chimpanzee or newly arrived gorilla. Asiatics
+have a very high opinion of our skill as manufacturers.
+English goods, can be met with in
+almost every large town in Anatolia, and the Turks
+prefer English merchandise to the cheaper but
+inferior articles sent from Belgium or America.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Zaptieh who went with me was a magnificent-looking
+fellow. Picture to yourself a tall,
+dark Circassian, with large piercing eyes, and
+carefully trimmed beard—a striking contrast to
+the huge white turban which surrounded his fez.
+He was dressed in a green jacket with red facings;
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_93' name='Page_93' href='#Page_93'>93</a></span>
+a blue waistcoat peered from beneath it, and a
+pair of green trousers and red leather boots
+covered his extremities. He was armed with a
+sword and revolver, and, when the road permitted,
+was continually exercising his horse. Now
+he would break into a gallop, go at headlong
+speed for fifty yards, then, pulling his steed almost
+on his haunches, he would start in another direction,
+and, bending from the saddle-bow, touch the
+ground. All this was done with the most consummate
+grace and ease—in fact, as if horse and
+rider were one.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Soon we left behind us the light sandy
+soil which admitted of such-like evolutions.
+A chain of steep heights had to be passed. The
+mud became at each moment deeper. The
+baggage animals had great difficulty in ascending
+with their loads. We were struggling up an
+almost perpendicular height. At our feet and
+at least forty yards below yawned a deep abyss.
+The path itself was in no place more than ten
+feet wide. The sound of an oath issuing from
+Osman's lips attracted my attention. One baggage-horse
+lay on the ground; he was kicking
+violently, and his head and shoulders were over
+the precipice. Osman had thrown my rifle into
+the mud, so as to be able to use his hands more
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_94' name='Page_94' href='#Page_94'>94</a></span>
+freely, and was endeavouring to make his way to
+the fallen animal. The Turk's high boots came
+half off each time he lifted his feet, owing to the
+sticky nature of the soil. Luckily, perhaps, for
+us it was so sticky, the gun-case, which was
+buried in the clay, kept the horse from rolling.
+The Circassian and Radford had time to reach his
+head. Pulling off the pack-saddle, they divided
+the luggage among the other animals. We
+gradually gained the summit of the hill.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_95' name='Page_95' href='#Page_95'>95</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER IX.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+Nalihan—Armenian, Turkish, and Circassian visitors—The
+state of the roads—Will there be war?—The Imaum—The
+Servians—A bellicose old farmer—The Armenians
+friends with the Russians—Sunnites and Shiites—Scenery
+near Nalihan—Alatai river—A Turkish counterpane—Turkish
+beds—Osman's <i>Yorgan</i>—Osman's wife—A girl with
+eyes like a hare, and plump as a turkey—The farmer's
+nuptial couch—An uncultivated district—An old Khan—A
+refuge for travellers—An invalid soldier—A Christian
+would have let me die like a dog—The votaries of Christianity
+in the East.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was quite dark when we reached Nalihan,
+a village with about 400 houses, and situated in
+a corn-growing district. I halted at the house of
+the Caimacan. He at once invited me to take up
+my abode there for the night. Presently several
+visitors appeared—Armenians, Turks, and Circassians—all
+eager to question the new arrival. I was
+seated in the place of honour, on a rug near the
+fire; the Caimacan, who was enveloped in a fur-lined
+dressing-gown, sat next me. The rest of the
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_96' name='Page_96' href='#Page_96'>96</a></span>
+company took precedence according to the amount
+of this world's goods which each one possessed—the
+man who had 100 cows being seated next
+to the governor, and the humble possessor of a
+mule or a few sheep squatting humbly by the door.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Asiatics are proverbially reticent. My visitors
+stared at each other, and did not say a word. At
+last the Caimacan broke the silence. He was
+wrapped up in a fur dressing-gown, and looked
+like an animated bundle. He gave a little cough,
+and then said, "Is there any news? if so tell us
+something." Now the inhabitants of Asia Minor
+do not talk about the weather—the state of the
+roads replaces that topic of conversation so
+interesting to English people.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The roads are very bad," I replied.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To this there was no dissent, everybody
+chorussed the wish for a railway.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Do you think that one will ever be made?"
+inquired the Caimacan.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Probably when you have some money in the
+exchequer."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We are very poor; why does not your nation
+lend us some gold?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We have already given you more than a hundred
+millions; with that money you might have
+made railways in every part of Anatolia."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_97' name='Page_97' href='#Page_97'>97</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Will there be war?" asked an Imaum (priest.)
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I do not know."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"If there is," he added, "I shall go—all the
+Imaums will go; we will fight by the side of
+our countrymen. We will kill all the Muscovites."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Has it not occurred to you," I here remarked,
+"that perhaps they may kill all the Turks?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Impossible! Allah and the Prophet are on
+our side; they will fight for the faithful."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What do you think yourself?" now inquired
+the Caimacan; "will Russia beat us?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Certainly—that is, if you have no European
+allies."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why so?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Because, if your Government had to put out
+all its strength to conquer the Servians assisted
+by only 12,000 Russians, what opposition will it
+be able to make to an army of 700,000 Muscovites?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"May their mothers be defiled!" said an old
+farmer. "They are always interfering with us.
+All my sons have gone to the war, and I—well, if
+the Padishah wants me, I will go too."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He was apparently an octogenarian. This announcement
+on his part was received with great
+applause by the rest of the company.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_98' name='Page_98' href='#Page_98'>98</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why do you not give the Armenians arms,
+and make them assist?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"They are friends with the Russians," said the
+Imaum. "They would turn against us. Have
+you Armenians in your country?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But you are a Christian, and they are
+Christians—you must be the same."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I now had to explain to the company that
+there is as much difference between an English
+Protestant and an Armenian Christian, as between
+a Sunnite and a Shiite.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"And do you hate the Armenians as much as
+the Shiites hate us?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We do not hate anybody. Our religion does
+not allow us to do so."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You Christians are a strange people," said
+the priest. Rising, he left the room, followed by
+the rest of the visitors.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The scenery is very lovely in this neighbourhood,
+and as we ascended an incline which leads
+in the direction of Angora, I could not help
+wishing that I had been born a painter, in order
+to have placed on canvas a picture of the landscape.
+A succession of hills, each one loftier than
+its fellow, broke upon us as we climbed the steep.
+They were of all forms, shades, and colours, ash-grey,
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_99' name='Page_99' href='#Page_99'>99</a></span>
+blue, vermillion, robed in imperial purple,
+and dotted with patches of vegetation. Our road
+wound amidst these chameleon-like heights.
+Silvery rivulets streamed down the sides of the
+many coloured hills. A rising sun showered its
+gleaming rays upon the sparkling cascades. They
+flashed and reflected the tints and shadows.
+A gurgling sound of many waters arose from the
+depths below.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We reach the summit of the highest hill.
+The scene changes. We look down upon a vast
+plain. It is surrounded on all sides by undulating
+heights. The white sandy soil of the valley throws
+still more into relief the many-coloured mountains.
+Patches of snow deck the more distant peaks.
+The sun is dispelling the flossy clouds which
+overhang the loftier crags. The filmy vapour
+floats away into space; caressing for a few
+moments the mountains' crests, it is wafted
+onward, and then disappears from our view.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now we crossed a rapid stream, about thirty
+yards wide, and known as the Alatai river. A
+fragile bridge spans the waters. Soon afterwards
+we put up for the night at a farm-house in the
+village of Tchairhana. The proprietor, a jolly-looking
+Turk, received us very hospitably. Later
+on in the evening he brought me a large <i>yorgan</i>, or
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_100' name='Page_100' href='#Page_100'>100</a></span>
+Turkish counterpane, with the remark that
+possibly the Effendi might feel cold during the
+night.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Turkish beds are very primitive; no bedstead
+being used. One or two mattresses are laid
+on the floor, the <i>yorgan</i> takes the place of sheets
+or blankets. It consists of a silk quilt, generally
+lined with linen, and stuffed with feathers. These
+quilts pass from father to son, and are greatly
+prized by the Turks. The farmer, to make me
+appreciate his attention the more highly, remarked
+that the <i>yorgan</i> had been used by his
+grandfather, as well as by his father on their
+wedding-nights, and that he himself had employed
+it on a similar occasion only a few weeks previously.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Osman, now interrupted the speaker with the
+remark that in his family there was also a
+wonderful <i>yorgan</i>—something quite out of the
+common, it was so beautiful that neither his wife
+nor himself liked to use it—and that this one was
+like a furze bush in comparison.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"So you are married, Osman?" I remarked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes; but I have not seen my wife for three
+years."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Do you love her very much?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"She is a good cook. She makes soup which
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_101' name='Page_101' href='#Page_101'>101</a></span>
+is more filling than even my brother's here,"
+pointing to Radford.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Is she pretty?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Effendi, I could not afford to marry a good-looking
+girl. There was one in our village—such
+a pretty one, with eyes like a hare and plump as
+a turkey—but she could not cook, and her father
+wanted too much for her."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, what did you give for your present
+wife?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Ten liras (Turkish pounds), but she did not
+weigh more than forty okas (about 100 lbs). She
+was very cheap. However, her eyes are not quite
+straight, they look in different directions. But
+that does not signify—she can cook."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," said the farmer, "a good cook, Effendi,
+that is what I said to myself when I wanted a
+wife. Looks don't last, but cooking is an art
+which the Prophet himself did not despise."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had no reason to congratulate myself on
+being the occupant of the farmer's nuptial couch.
+It was very old and very beautiful, but it was full
+of fleas, and they gave me no rest.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You ought to burn that quilt," I observed
+next morning to the farmer; "I have not closed
+my eyes during the entire night."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What, burn my grandfather's marriage <i>yorgan</i>—my
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_102' name='Page_102' href='#Page_102'>102</a></span>
+father's <i>yorgan</i>, and my own <i>yorgan</i>!
+Never, Effendi! There are fleas, it is true, but
+they will die, and the quilt will do for my son and
+his wife, if ever he has one."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The country which we next traversed was
+entirely uncultivated, although it would have
+well repaid a farmer. This, however, is the case
+with millions of acres in Turkey. There are no
+labourers. The country is depopulated to the
+last degree, and land which might produce wheat
+enough for the whole of Great Britain is left
+fallow.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Presently we came to an old Khan. It had
+been built by a former sultan, as a refuge for
+travellers during the winter. At this season of
+the year the ground is sometimes covered with
+snow for several weeks in succession, and travelling
+is very dangerous. Two soldiers were the
+sole tenants of the building. Whilst I was performing
+my ablutions in the open air, one of them
+came to me and asked for a little tea. His
+comrade was ill, and tea he thought would be
+good for him. I went to look at the invalid.
+He was lying on a dirty mattress, and was
+shivering violently. It was clearly a case of
+fever, so taking some quinine from my medicine-chest,
+I administered a dose, and directed his
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_103' name='Page_103' href='#Page_103'>103</a></span>
+comrade to procure a clean bed for the sufferer.
+The sick man was very grateful. Eagerly seizing
+my hand, he kissed it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What countryman are you?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I am English."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Your religion is not that of Islam?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What are you?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I am a Protestant."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Protestant," repeated the poor fellow, "I
+shall remember that."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"A Christian," he continued, "even if he had
+the medicine, would have let me die like a dog."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was very clear that the sufferer had not
+much opinion of the Armenian and Greek
+Christians. But this was no solitary expressed
+opinion. Throughout my journey, I found Armenians
+and Greeks equally despised by the Mohammedans.
+It is a great pity that the votaries of
+Christianity in the East should have brought the
+only pure religion into so great disrepute.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_104' name='Page_104' href='#Page_104'>104</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER X.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+Radford and Osman—The quarrel—Do the Roossians kiss each
+other?—Bei Bazar—The pig tobacco—Osman's honesty—Forage
+for five horses—It is a good sign in a horse to be
+always hungry—The Tchechmet river—The Mudir at
+Istanos—The Cadi's mule—The tradition about Istanos—Caverns
+formerly inhabited by marauders—A chasm—The
+entrance to the caverns—A levee of the inhabitants—No
+newspapers in the villages—An Armenian priest—The
+furniture of the room—Has the Conference commenced?—What
+is it all about?—Russia is strong and we are weak—The
+other Powers are afraid of Russia—Will England be
+our ally?—Are the Christians tortured?—Here we get on
+very well with the Mussulmans—The pack-saddle.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There was something on my English servant's
+mind that evening. He did not look happy, and
+eyed Osman from time to time with lowering
+looks.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"My brother is angry with me, Effendi," said
+the Turk, in answer to my inquiries. "When he
+speaks I do not understand, when I speak he does
+not know what I say."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_105' name='Page_105' href='#Page_105'>105</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What is the matter, Radford?" I asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Please, sir, I ain't had no dinner. I did not
+prepare anything for you as the cook in the house
+was a preparing it. Well, when you had finished,
+and Osman had brought out the dishes, I thought
+that I should get something to eat. But, no sir!
+for Osman invited a lot of dirty Turks to come
+and sit round the victuals. Some of the chaps
+had just come out of the stable, and their hands
+were that dirty. Then they began a shoving
+them into the dishes and a licking their fingers.
+It turned me hup, that it did. Osman ought to
+know better, sir. Whenever I cooks for you I
+always give him a tit-bit for himself."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I now explained the matter to Osman, and at
+the same time informed him that in future he
+must look after his English companion at dinner-time.
+The difficulty was amicably arranged, and
+the two men shook hands together. Osman wishing
+to show his affection in a more demonstrative
+manner, this, however, was not appreciated by
+my domestic.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Lor! how they kisses each other, just like a
+lot of great girls. Do the Roossians kiss each
+other?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, Radford."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"They must be a poor lot then, sir. I have
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_106' name='Page_106' href='#Page_106'>106</a></span>
+always heard that one Englishman could lick two
+Frenchmen, and I believed it; but I'll be blessed
+if I could not lick half-a-dozen Roossians, if they
+have no more in them than these 'ere dirty
+Turks."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We left Bei Bazar at daybreak. Osman, as
+usual, did not take the trouble to lead one of the
+baggage-horses, but drove the animal before him.
+Presently we passed through a narrow passage.
+On each side were two walls; the pack-saddle
+struck against one them, and Radford's bag, containing
+the article which he prized perhaps most
+in the world, some pig tobacco, was torn open.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I never seed such a fellow as that Osman,"
+exclaimed my indignant servant, "he is always a
+telling of us as how he is industrious, and if there
+is a ha'porth of work to do he will borrow a penny
+and give it to some chap to do the job for him.
+I believe, sir, as how that fellow is a cheating the
+horses of their forage. He told me that he fed
+them in the morning before I was up. He is a liar
+he is. I was dressed a long time before him, and
+when he did show himself, he was busy the whole
+time a praying and a doing something with a little
+gallipot he carries in his saddle-bags. I don't
+believe the horses have had a feed of corn this
+twenty-four hours."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_107' name='Page_107' href='#Page_107'>107</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I began myself to be a little sceptical about
+Osman's honesty. I was paying as much for the
+forage of the five horses as if I had been in
+England. The poor brutes were getting thinner
+every day. I determined to stop at a farmhouse
+and buy some barley. On giving this to the
+horses, they ate it ravenously, thus confirming my
+suspicions.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Osman, you did not feed the horses this morning!"
+I exclaimed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Feed them, Effendi! I fed all of them!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But see how hungry they are, they have eaten
+all the barley you have just given them."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, sir, they are wonderful horses. They
+are always hungry. It is a good sign in a horse
+to be always hungry."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was not to be taken in by this remark, and so
+desired Radford in future to see the horses fed.
+At the same time I resolved to keep a sharp look-out
+on Osman. It was true that a considerable
+portion of his time was spent in praying; however,
+I began to be of my English servant's
+opinion, that when the Turk was not engaged
+in prayer, he was either planning or executing a
+theft, and that all these devotions were performed
+merely with the view of throwing me off my
+guard.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_108' name='Page_108' href='#Page_108'>108</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We crossed the Tchechmet; it is a tributary
+of the Sakaria river, and about thirty yards
+wide. There was a wooden bridge over the stream,
+but without any parapets; the height from the
+water being about twelve feet. This river is fordable
+in many places, the banks are not precipitous,
+and the bottom is firm.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A messenger, sent forward from the village of
+Ayash, had informed the Mudir at Istanos, our
+next station, that an English traveller was on the
+road. The official, attended by the Cadi and two
+or three Zaptiehs, came out to meet us. All the
+party, with the exception of the gendarmes,
+were clad in long dark blue dressing-gowns,
+which draggled some distance below the riders'
+stirrups. The mule which the Cadi rode was
+not of a quiet disposition; from time to time
+he kicked as violently as a mule can kick, at
+his master's robe, the Cadi saving himself by
+clinging convulsively to the high pommel of his
+saddle.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Istanos is a little distance from the direct
+road to Angora. There was no other good
+halting-place in the neighbourhood, so I determined
+to make a slight detour and remain there
+for the night—the more particularly as Istanos
+is a village of historic fame, the tradition being
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_109' name='Page_109' href='#Page_109'>109</a></span>
+still extant, that it is the place<a name='FA_7' id='FA_7' href='#FN_7' class='fnanchor'>[7]</a> where Alexander
+the Great cut the Gordian knot. The village,
+which contains 400 houses—half belonging to
+Armenians, half to Turks—is on the right bank
+of the river Owas. A lofty rock overhangs the
+stream, and according to the Mudir, there were
+several huge caverns which in days long gone by
+had been inhabited by bands of marauders.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Later on, I procured a guide, and walked to
+the foot of the rock. A narrow pathway was
+cut in the solid stone. The track was not more
+than twelve inches wide, as we ascended it
+became narrower at every moment. At last we
+arrived at a spot where the path had given way.
+There was a chasm about twelve feet wide.
+The guide hesitated, and no wonder, for if he had
+essayed the leap and missed it, he must have
+fallen at least a hundred feet on to the crags
+below.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Effendi," he said, "I will try and cross if
+you like, but if my foot slips I shall be killed.
+You can see the entrance to the caverns from the
+place where you are standing."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was not possible, even if I had wished it, to
+pass him and try the jump myself. The sun
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_110' name='Page_110' href='#Page_110'>110</a></span>
+was nearly down, and ere a rope could be brought,
+night would be upon us. Reluctantly I retraced
+my steps, having to go backward for some
+distance owing to the narrowness of the ledge.
+Should any other traveller chance to visit
+Istanos, and be able to stay there a day or two,
+it would be well worth his while to procure a
+rope and examine these, as far as I can learn,
+unexplored grottos.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On returning to the Mudir's house, I found a
+levee of the principal inhabitants, Armenians as
+well as Turks. I was then informed that they
+had come to welcome me to their village. The
+real reason being that they wished to hear the
+latest news from Constantinople. No newspapers
+find their way to these out-of-the-way villages.
+The inhabitants can only learn what is going on
+in the capital through the arrival of a traveller.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+An old Armenian priest was one of the visitors.
+He sat by the side of the Mudir, on a raised
+platform in the centre of the room. The legs of
+these two gentlemen were entirely hid from view,
+and although the room was very chilly where I
+was sitting, the rest of the party did not seem to
+feel the low temperature. I now discovered that
+there was a hole in the platform. A pan of live
+charcoal had been placed in the recess. The
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_111' name='Page_111' href='#Page_111'>111</a></span>
+natives, enveloped in furs, and with their feet
+over the embers, were able to withstand the cold.
+The platform was partly covered with a Persian
+rug. A divan alongside the walls made up
+the furniture of the room. In the background
+and near the door stood the servants
+of the Mudir, and the less important inhabitants.
+It was not considered etiquette for them to sit
+in the presence of their superiors. They remained
+with arms folded and eyes bent down
+in token of humility. When the Mudir thought
+that they had humbled themselves sufficiently,
+he made a sign to them. They all squatted
+down on their haunches.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Has the Conference commenced?" inquired
+the Mudir.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What is it all about?" said another old Turk,
+the Cadi.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is to see if arrangements can be made so
+as to prevent war," I replied.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But we do not want to go to war with any
+one," said the Mudir. "Russia wishes to go to
+war with us."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why is the Conference not held at St. Petersburg?"
+asked another of the visitors.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Because Russia is strong and we are weak—the
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_112' name='Page_112' href='#Page_112'>112</a></span>
+other powers are afraid of Russia," said the
+Cadi.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Do Englishmen like Russia?" inquired the
+Mudir.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Some do, and some do not," I replied.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Do you?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I like the people, but do not like the government."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Because it is a despotic form of government,
+and in my opinion all despotisms are
+bad."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I like to hear that," said the Mudir.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"So do I," said each one of the assembled
+guests, taking the cue from the governor.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Will England be our ally in the case of war?"
+asked the Cadi.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I do not know, but I hope so."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Some one now entered and spoke a few words
+to the Mudir. The latter left the room: he was
+followed by the rest of the visitors, with the
+exception of the Armenian priest.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How do you like the Turks?" I asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Very well," replied the old man, at the same
+time blowing his nose in his dressing-gown,
+pocket handkerchiefs being apparently unknown
+in this part of Turkey. "Here," he added, "the
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_113' name='Page_113' href='#Page_113'>113</a></span>
+population is half Armenian and half Turk,
+this makes a considerable difference. In other
+villages, where the Mohammedans outnumber the
+Christians, the latter sometimes suffer."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What do you mean by suffer? Are they
+tortured?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, never," replied the priest, "but if a Turk
+were to strike an Armenian, and the latter were to
+hit him back, all the Turks in the neighbourhood
+would set upon the Christian. Then, if the Christian
+should complain to the Mudir, the Turk would
+bring witnesses to say that the Armenian called
+him the grandson or great-grandson of a dog.
+The Christian's word would not be taken as
+evidence. But things are much better than
+they used to be, and here we get on well with
+the Mussulmans."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+My English servant was very much excited that
+evening. At dinner-time he put down my plate
+with a bang on the table, and every now and
+then looked at Osman with an air of supreme
+contempt.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What has happened?" I at last inquired.
+"Have you and Osman been fighting, or are you
+both in love with the same woman?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, sir, but that Hosman he ain't taken the
+pack-saddle off our horse's back since we left
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_114' name='Page_114' href='#Page_114'>114</a></span>
+Scutari. Every night I tells him about it, and
+he takes no notice of me whatever. I expect that
+our oss has an awful back—a nasty unfeeling
+brute is Hosman, sir. How would he like a
+saddle on his own back night and day for fourteen
+days?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well," I said, "go to the stable, take off the
+saddle, and tell me in the morning if the horse's
+back is sore or not."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I did not share the apprehensions of my
+English servant. The Turkish pack-saddle is
+admirably suited for a long journey. During
+previous expeditions in the East, I had seen
+some Tartars who kept their horses saddled for
+weeks and even months together, and all this
+without in any way injuring the animals. The
+two English riding-saddles which I had
+brought from Constantinople, had already proved
+a source of annoyance to me. Our steeds had
+lost a great deal of flesh, owing to the long and
+frequent marches, and the panels required fresh
+stuffing. The grey horse which I rode had
+been slightly rubbed. In consequence of this I
+had changed saddles with Osman, who was much
+lighter than myself. The Turkish saddle not
+having a panel, is better adapted for long
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_115' name='Page_115' href='#Page_115'>115</a></span>
+marches. Unfortunately it is an uncomfortable
+one for the horseman: my own experience being
+that the English saddle galls the steed, but the
+Turkish one the rider.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_116' name='Page_116' href='#Page_116'>116</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER XI.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+One lives and learns even from Turks—The Mudir's two sons—They
+like your nation—They remember the Crimean War—Suleiman
+Effendi—The Vice-Consul—The town of
+Angora to be illuminated—The telegram about the
+Constitution—What does the Constitution mean?—Suleiman
+Effendi on education, and on religious matters—So
+many roads to heaven—American missionaries—The massacres
+in Bulgaria—The intrigues of Russia—The Circassians
+hate the Russians—Circassian women butchered
+and ravished by the Russians—An English priest—The
+impalement story—The Vice-Consul's wife—A piano in
+Angora—Turkish ladies—A visit to the Pacha—The
+audience-room—The Pacha's son—Only one cannon in
+Angora—Twenty-five thousand men gone to the war—The
+clerk—The Bey's library—The new Constitution—The
+Bey's opinion about it—Turkey requires roads and railways—The
+only carriage in Angora.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, how is the animal's back?" I inquired of
+Radford, when he awoke me the next morning.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I can't make it out, sir. I took the saddle
+off, and our horse ain't touched at all. Osman
+came in when I was a looking at him. He
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_117' name='Page_117' href='#Page_117'>117</a></span>
+laughed and said 'Eyi' (good), and I said 'Eyi'
+too. But, sir, it is a wonder to me that the horse
+ain't got an awful back."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How are you getting on with your Turkish?"
+I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Capital, sir; I often have a talk with Osman,
+though I can't say as how we understand each
+other much. The fellow, he knows more about
+horses than I thought he did; one lives and learns,
+even from Turks."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We were escorted out of Istanos<a name='FA_8' id='FA_8' href='#FN_8' class='fnanchor'>[8]</a> by the Mudir
+and his two sons, lads of from twelve to fifteen, who
+had got up at daybreak to speed the Frank on his
+way. The Armenian priest also came to the door.
+In spite of the early hour, a great many inhabitants
+had assembled on the house-tops to
+have a look at the Englishman and his party.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"They like your nation," said the Mudir, as the
+people saluted us.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why so?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"They remember the Crimean war, and think
+that you have come to help us against the
+Russians."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I wish I had," was my answer; "but I am
+here only as a 'traveller.'"
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_118' name='Page_118' href='#Page_118'>118</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We retraced our steps along the route of the
+previous day, marching for some time by the
+bank of the river. Presently I came to a well-built
+stone bridge. It spans the stream, which is
+here about forty yards wide, besides being very
+rapid and deep. Soon afterwards the path traversed
+a spacious plain, formerly the battle field
+of Tamerlane. At one end of this plain, and
+on a hill, or rather ridge of hills, is Angora.
+Its ruined battlements and lofty minarets stand
+out conspicuously. The town itself lies rather in
+the background and on a slope. A Zaptieh met
+us as we were entering a narrow street, and
+said that a Turkish gentleman had sent him to
+escort me to his house.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On we rode, through many dirty lanes, until
+I finally entered a wide yard. This court was
+overlooked by a large and handsome building.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Suleiman Effendi lives here," said the Zaptieh.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The gentleman to whom he alluded now appeared
+descending some stone steps which gave
+access to the courtyard. He approached us, and
+aided me to dismount; then, taking my hand, he
+led me into a large room furnished with chairs, as
+well as with a divan, and carpeted with rich
+Persian rugs. Advancing to the place of honour,
+in the centre of the divan, he asked me to be
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_119' name='Page_119' href='#Page_119'>119</a></span>
+seated, and sat down by my side. Several of his
+friends being accommodated on the floor.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Suleiman Effendi was dressed in European
+fashion, with the exception of his fez. He had a
+very fair knowledge of Arabic; I soon found that
+he was well posted in European politics.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I heard that an Englishman was on his way
+to Angora," he said, "and determined that you
+should be my guest. We received the news about
+you from Ismid."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Are there any other Englishmen here?" I
+inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Only one—the Vice-Consul, a merchant: but
+I will send and let him know that you have
+arrived. In the meantime have a glass of raki."
+Proceeding to a cabinet in the wall, Suleiman
+carefully unlocked it, and produced a decanter
+with some glasses.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Thanks, I do not drink spirits."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No more do I," replied Suleiman, laughing;
+"only medicinally, you know;" and he drank off
+a bumper.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In a few minutes the English Vice-Consul
+arrived. He was dressed in his official uniform,
+and was accompanied by a young Bulgarian, who
+was a merchant in the same business as himself.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. —— was very surprised to see an Englishman
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_120' name='Page_120' href='#Page_120'>120</a></span>
+in Angora, no one of our nation having visited
+that town for several years past; and he informed me
+that a telegram had just been received from Constantinople
+with reference to the proclamation of
+a Constitution. In consequence of this the town
+of Angora was to be illuminated on the following
+evening; cannon would be fired, and the Pacha
+would read the telegram to the populace in the
+courtyard of the palace.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What does it—the Constitution—mean?" I
+inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Mean?" replied the Bulgarian, who spoke
+English perfectly; "it means a quantity of promises
+which the Government will never fulfil."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It probably means a Parliament in Constantinople,"
+said the Consul; "but we have no
+particulars as yet." And, making an appointment
+for me to call upon him in the morning,
+he left the room, accompanied by the Bulgarian.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was very much surprised at this intelligence.
+A Parliament in Constantinople! How would
+the members be chosen? and who would
+choose them? If universal suffrage prevailed,
+only one in about every 300 of the electors would
+be able to read or write; all of them would be
+ignorant of everything beyond the interests of
+their immediate neighbourhood.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_121' name='Page_121' href='#Page_121'>121</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Is a Parliament possible here?" I inquired of
+my host.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is possible in theory, but impossible in
+practice,"<a name='FA_9' id='FA_9' href='#FN_9' class='fnanchor'>[9]</a> was the reply. "We require more
+liberty, but this must be a question of time.
+We must educate the people, and teach both
+the Christians and Mohammedans that a difference
+of opinion on religious matters is not a subject
+about which men should quarrel. Religion
+has been the cause of more wars than anything
+else in history."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I tell you what it is," he continued, "I believe
+that in another hundred years there will be either
+no religion at all, or else that every religion will
+be merged into one creed."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Christian," I observed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Who knows?" continued my host. "We live
+in strange times; even we Turks, the more particularly
+those who live in Constantinople, begin
+to argue about such matters. However, there is
+one thing I cannot understand about you Christians—you
+appear to me to have so many
+roads to heaven. For instance, in Anatolia
+there are American Protestant missionaries,
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_122' name='Page_122' href='#Page_122'>122</a></span>
+Italian Catholic missionaries, and then there are
+the Armenians, who profess the Armenian faith."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well," I remarked, "what of it?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Wait a moment," said my host. "An
+Armenian, who is of the Armenian faith, is half-way
+up his staircase to heaven. An American
+missionary calls after him, 'Where are you
+going?' 'I am going to heaven.' 'No you
+are not; that is not the road to heaven. You
+are going in the wrong direction. Come down
+immediately, and I will show you the way.' The
+Armenian descends the steps, and begins ascending
+the road the missionary points out to him. Presently
+another voice is heard. It comes from the
+mouth of an Italian missionary. 'Where are you
+going?' 'I am going to heaven.' 'No you are
+not; come down immediately. You are on the
+road to hell.'"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The result is," continued Suleiman, "that the
+poor Armenian does not know which way to turn.
+He is perpetually going up, or coming down the
+steps, and he never reaches his destination."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Stop," I said, "you Mohammedans are
+also split up into sects. There are the Sunnites
+and the Shiites, and you both hate each other."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Alas! it is true," replied my companion, "but
+if we have two sects, you, according to what I
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_123' name='Page_123' href='#Page_123'>123</a></span>
+have read, number at least a hundred, and the
+members of many of the sects think that every
+one else besides themselves must be damned. A
+very charitable doctrine that, is it not?" he added.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Who was the Bulgarian with our Vice-Consul?"
+I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He is in business with the Vice-Consul, and,
+I am sorry to say, does not love us Turks."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Because his brother was one of the victims in
+the late Bulgarian rebellion."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"People in England blame us for the massacres,"
+continued Suleiman. "What could we
+do? Our regular troops were employed elsewhere.
+This was owing to the intrigues of Russia;
+we were obliged to employ Circassians. The
+Circassians hate the Russians, and indeed they have
+reason to hate them. Those whose own mothers
+and sisters have been ravished and butchered,
+cannot be expected to love their oppressors.
+The Circassians looked upon the Bulgarians as
+Russians, hence the bloodshed. A few days ago I
+read an extract from an English paper, which had
+been translated into Turkish. It was to the
+effect that an English priest had seen people
+impaled by our Bashi Bazouks. Have you heard
+of this?"
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_124' name='Page_124' href='#Page_124'>124</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, but the story has been contradicted."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is a pity when Christian priests or Mohammedan
+Imaums mix themselves up in politics,"
+remarked another Turk; "their place is to calm
+men's passions, not to rouse them."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+They left me; my host having previously
+asked at what time I should like to dine, with
+the observation that his hour was mine. Three
+servants were also placed at my disposal, with
+orders to supply me with anything I might require.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The following morning I called upon the Vice-Consul,
+and found him at home with his wife—a
+delicate-looking lady, who had braved all the
+hardships of the journey from Ismid in order to
+be at her husband's side.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Their house was furnished with every English
+comfort. It was difficult to believe that we
+were so many days from a railroad.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"That piano cost us a great deal of trouble,"
+said the Vice-Consul. "It was brought here in
+two parts, and on mules."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is wonderful how it could have survived the
+journey," said the lady. Going to the instrument,
+she sounded the notes, which were very fairly in
+tune. "The Turkish ladies are so astonished
+with the piano," she continued. "They will sit
+for hours and listen to me playing."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_125' name='Page_125' href='#Page_125'>125</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I now started with the Consul to pay a visit to
+the Pacha. We arrived in a large courtyard,
+which was badly paved with loose stones.
+At one end there were some steps which led to
+the official residence. The courtyard was thronged
+with people who had been summoned to hear the
+telegram read about the new Constitution; men
+in uniform, beggars, people with petitions in their
+hands, all swearing and jostling each other, as my
+companion and myself with difficulty made our
+way up the stairs. We were at once admitted
+into the audience-room. I found the Pacha, a
+tall, good-looking man of middle age, engaged in
+placing his seal upon a number of documents
+which an official was handing to him. He received
+us courteously, and proposed that we should
+accompany him to the court below, and listen to
+the proclamation of the Sultan's telegram.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Pacha then introduced me to his son, a
+young man about twenty; he spoke French
+fluently and without any perceptible accent,
+having been educated by a French tutor.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We have only one cannon in Angora," he
+remarked, "and it is to be fired 101 times. We
+are a little afraid that it may not be able to stand
+the ordeal."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," said his father, "we have only one
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_126' name='Page_126' href='#Page_126'>126</a></span>
+cannon, but we have sent 25,000 men to the war.
+We do not require any cannons," he added.
+"Our own people are quiet enough. The Russians
+will not find it a very easy matter to
+reach Angora."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We descended the steps; on reaching the
+courtyard, the clerk—a wonderful old gentleman
+in a green dressing-gown, and with a wheezy
+voice—called for silence.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Pacha then announced that the Sultan had
+been pleased to grant more liberties to his people,
+and that the present autocratic form of government
+was to be replaced by a Constitution. The
+Imaum, or priest, here said "Amin," equivalent
+to our Amen; and the Vice-Consul put on his cap
+with the gilt peak, which he had taken off during
+the ceremony.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Pacha's son now invited me to visit his
+rooms, which were a suite of apartments separate
+from those occupied by his father. I found his
+book-shelves well stored with scientific French
+works, and, to my surprise, discovered that the
+young Bey was not only remarkably well educated
+for a Turk, but was much better informed than
+nine Englishmen out of ten who have been to a
+public school, and have taken their degree at the
+university.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_127' name='Page_127' href='#Page_127'>127</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, what do you think will be the result of
+the new Constitution?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We are what you would call in England a
+very conservative nation. This sudden change
+has almost taken away our breath. We have not
+yet received the document which contains all the
+clauses of the new Constitution, and only know of
+them by telegram; if we are to attempt a form
+of Government such as you have in England, in
+my opinion we shall fail."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why so?" I asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Because not only the electing class, but the
+men who will probably be chosen to sit in
+Parliament are only half educated. We shall
+have ignorant legislators legislating for an equally
+ignorant nation. We want time," he continued;
+"we require roads and railways. If there were
+means of communication, the people would travel
+and see that there is a good deal to be learnt
+away from home, and even from you Christians.
+Give us roads and railways, they will be worth
+fifty Constitutions, for the latter, in my opinion,
+will soon be found impracticable."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It will never be carried out," said the Vice-Consul,
+who was sitting next to him. "It has
+been drawn up merely as a sop for the plenipotentiaries
+at the Conference."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_128' name='Page_128' href='#Page_128'>128</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, whatever they do in other places," said
+the Bey, "we shall carry it out in its integrity
+here."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As he said these words the boom of the cannon
+resounded from below, the windows of the room
+began to rattle, the sound of a mob cheering,
+rapidly followed the report.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"A great deal of noise and a great deal of
+smoke: <i>voilà la Constitution</i>, " said the Consul, and
+he prepared to leave the room.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Stop," said the Bey, "you must not walk, I
+will send my carriage with you. It is almost the
+only carriage in Angora," he added, "and I have
+a compatriot of yours as a coachman; he has been
+with me three years."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_129' name='Page_129' href='#Page_129'>129</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER XII.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+The Pacha's carriage—The coachman an Irishman—Christmas
+day in Angora—The celebrities of the town—A society of
+thieves—Fire in Sivrisa—The Turks and the Armenians—So-called
+fanaticism—Ten Pachas in Angora in four years—Cases
+of litigation—Arrears—The firman of November,
+1875—The famine in Angora—Deaths during the famine—The
+goats died—A Mohammedan divine—The Russian Ambassador
+and the secret societies—The English newspapers
+and the Bulgarian atrocities—A Turk values his nose quite
+as much as a Christian—Suleiman Effendi's wife—The
+Turkish law about property—A dinner with a Turkish
+gentleman—A mixture of nationalities—My host and his
+digestion—Spirits refresh the stomach—The Prophet and
+the old woman in Mecca—There are no old women in
+heaven.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Pacha's carriage was a funny-looking old
+vehicle. It gave me the idea of a broken-down
+four-wheeler, which had been taken to pieces and
+converted into an Irish car. There were no springs.
+My bones were nearly dislocated as we drove
+down the main street, to the Consul's house.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_130' name='Page_130' href='#Page_130'>130</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The coachman turned out to be not an Englishman,
+but an Irishman. He had lost all signs of
+the native drollery. Four years spent in Turkey
+seemed to have taken the life out of him.
+He had been sent home to Ireland during the
+previous summer, to buy some carriage-horses
+for his master. On returning with his purchases,
+a storm arose in the Bay of Biscay. The
+captain of the vessel had been obliged to order the
+crew to throw the horses overboard. This, and
+the absence of all female society, had weighed
+upon Paddy's mind. He only brightened up for
+one moment when the Consul, giving him a glass
+of whisky, desired him to drink it in honour of
+Ould Ireland and of Christmas Day. For it was
+Christmas Day in Angora, and the Consul's good
+wife was busily engaged in all the mysteries of the
+<i>cuisine</i>.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You are going to dine with us to-night?"
+said the hospitable gentleman. "Nay, you must,"
+he added. "We are to have a turkey stuffed
+with chestnuts, and my wife is busy teaching the
+Turkish servants how to make a plum-pudding.
+You will also meet some of the celebrities of
+Angora."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At dinner one of the guests—if I remember
+right, an Armenian—did not seem to share the
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_131' name='Page_131' href='#Page_131'>131</a></span>
+opinions which the Pacha had expressed that
+morning with reference to the quiet and good
+order in the city.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It appeared, according to this person, that
+there is a vagabond society, a society of thieves, in
+Angora, which preys upon Turks and Christians.
+The members of this society go at night to
+different houses, and, knocking at the door, order
+the proprietors, under threat of assassination, to
+draw the bolts. The inhabitants, who are frightened
+to death, frequently open the door. The
+thieves, entering, eat what they find in the house,
+and afterwards make the proprietor give them a
+sum of money.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," remarked another guest, "the worst
+of it is that several of the chief people in the town
+are said to be mixed up in this society."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A great fire had taken place in Sivrisa, a short
+time before. Damage had been done to the Christian
+inhabitants to the amount of thirty million
+piastres. The Turks did not willingly receive the
+Armenians into their houses, but when they
+did so, subsequently threw their mattresses
+out of the window, saying that they had been
+defiled by the contact of a <i>giaour's</i> body. This
+was mentioned to show the fanaticism of the
+Turks.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_132' name='Page_132' href='#Page_132'>132</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+However, during my subsequent travels in Armenia,
+the impression gradually dawned upon my
+mind that the Turks were, first of all, very wise
+not to wish to receive the Armenians into their
+houses; and, secondly, if they had been good-natured
+enough to do so, to destroy the mattresses
+after the departure of their guests. The Armenians
+in their habits of body are filthy to the last
+degree. Their houses and clothes are infested
+with vermin. The Turks, on the contrary, are much
+cleaner, and are most particular about the use of
+the bath. An Englishman would not be pleased
+if his house became filled with what it is not here
+necessary to mention. If he did under such
+circumstances admit strangers, he would probably
+destroy their bedding the moment that they
+departed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One of the visitors now remarked that there had
+been ten Pachas in four years in Angora, and that
+this frequent removal of officials was one of the
+causes which had led to the decadence of the
+country.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," said another, "a Pacha never feels sure
+of his place. Another evil here is the delay
+in settling cases of litigation. The arrears are enormous,
+and although in November, 1875, a firman
+from the sultan called attention to this matter, and
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_133' name='Page_133' href='#Page_133'>133</a></span>
+ordered all law cases to be settled at once, nothing
+has been done to carry the edict into execution.
+If when the Authorities find that they have a
+good man as a Pacha, they would leave him for say
+ten years in office, we should advance much more
+rapidly than at present."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I next heard that Angora had not recovered
+from the effects of the famine which had devastated
+the neighbourhood in 1873-74, the amount of
+taxes owing by the inhabitants to the Government
+amounting to more than a million and a half
+Turkish pounds. The arrears of taxes owing
+previous to 1872 had been cancelled, some being
+as much as ten, twelve, and twenty years due.
+Previous to cancelling the arrears, the Government
+had put up to auction the right of collecting the
+entire sum; but, as many of the inhabitants had
+emigrated, no one ventured to bid.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There were 18,000 deaths in the neighbourhood
+of the town during the famine, and 25,000
+people died subsequently in consequence of its
+effect. The chief trade of the district is in goats'
+hair, 60 per cent. of the goats, sheep, and cattle
+had perished. Children had been deserted and
+left in the streets; some instances of babies being
+eaten by their parents were brought to light.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The following morning I received a visit from
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_134' name='Page_134' href='#Page_134'>134</a></span>
+a relative of my host, Hadji Taifik Effendi. It is
+said that he will one day be the head of the
+Mussulman faith. I found this Mohammedan
+divine excessively bellicose in his ideas; he
+eagerly desired war.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why so?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Because an open enemy is better than a
+poisoner in your house. Because war must come
+some day, and it is better to get rid of a cancer
+by sacrificing a limb.<a name='FA_10' id='FA_10' href='#FN_10' class='fnanchor'>[10]</a> Russian agents have been
+doing their best to sow discord amongst the
+inhabitants of our provinces; this they did during
+peace time and whilst a Russian ambassador was
+at Constantinople."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," said my host, "and an ambassador
+who is himself a prime mover in the secret
+societies which are agitating Europe. The
+Russian Government pretends to be alarmed
+at the secret societies, but it is the hot-bed
+of all the secret societies in the world.<a name='FA_11' id='FA_11' href='#FN_11' class='fnanchor'>[11]</a> You
+may depend upon it," he continued, "that
+the massacres which occurred in Bulgaria had
+been planned long before the outbreak. Our
+regular troops had been purposely sent to other
+parts of the empire. The Russian authorities
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_135' name='Page_135' href='#Page_135'>135</a></span>
+were well aware of what was about to take place,
+and were delighted at the effect which it had
+upon public opinion in England. One thing,
+however, I cannot understand, and this is why
+your newspapers always published the accounts
+of the Bulgarian women and children who were
+slaughtered, and never went into any particulars
+about the Turkish women who were massacred
+by the Bulgarians, or about our soldiers whose
+noses were cut off, and who were mutilated by the
+insurgents in the Herzegovina. A Turk values
+his nose quite as much as a Christian," he added.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I now learned that Hadji Taifik Effendi
+had five wives, but that Suleiman Effendi only
+possessed one. She was the widow of a rich
+inhabitant of the town, and one day seeing
+Suleiman pass her windows, was struck by his
+appearance. She sent an old woman, as intermediary,
+to him. The marriage was arranged;
+the lady bringing all her late husband's fortune
+to her new spouse.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Turkish law about the distribution of
+property after a man's death is rather curious.
+If a man dies leaving a daughter, but if at the
+same time he has a brother, the daughter and his
+brother divide the property. Should he leave two
+daughters and a brother, each girl takes a quarter,
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_136' name='Page_136' href='#Page_136'>136</a></span>
+his brother the half; if he has one son and a
+brother, the brother is left out altogether, and
+the son takes everything.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+That evening I received an invitation to dine
+with a Turkish gentleman. My host was one
+of the guests; we went together to the place of
+entertainment. There was a strange mixture of
+nationalities, comprising Turks, Armenians, an
+Italian doctor, a certain M. Gasparini, who had
+been for some years in Angora, and was a great
+favourite with the inhabitants; Greeks, a Bulgarian,
+and our Consul, who is a Scotchman.
+We passed through a courtyard which surrounded
+the house. It was illuminated with
+paper lanterns of various patterns. Presently
+I found myself in a room surrounded by divans.
+The guests were all assembled. In the centre of
+the apartment was a table. On it were placed
+bottles of red and white wine of Armenian manufacture,
+raki, mastic, brandy, and liqueurs, whilst
+biscuits, nuts and filberts, with sardines, were on
+little dishes interspersed amidst the decanters.
+My host, who was a stout and very dark man,
+pouring out a bumper, insisted upon all the company
+joining him in his libations, then, turning to
+M. Gasparini, he complained about the state of
+his digestion.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_137' name='Page_137' href='#Page_137'>137</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, if you will drink so much," said the
+doctor, "you ought not to expect to feel well."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Spirits," said the fat Turk; "I like spirits—they
+refresh my stomach, and I become cheerful.
+Send me some medicine," he added.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There is no good treating these Turks," said
+the doctor to me, in Italian. "They mix up
+everything together, wine, spirits, physic, &amp;c., and
+then expect to get well. If they would only
+carry out their prophet's injunctions, and leave
+off drinking wine, they would enjoy much better
+health."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Did you ever hear the story of the prophet
+and the old women in Mecca?" said one of the
+guests who was listening to the conversation.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, what is it?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well," observed the visitor, "there is a
+tradition that one day an old woman came to the
+Prophet and said, 'Oh! only true Prophet of
+God, when I die, to which particular heaven shall
+I be sent?' The Prophet, who was continually
+being bothered by similar questions, and" (aside
+to the doctor) "whose digestion on that particular
+occasion was very likely out of order, replied
+gruffly, 'Go away, go away! There are no old
+women in heaven.' Upon this the aged dame
+left the house crying. In a short time the
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_138' name='Page_138' href='#Page_138'>138</a></span>
+Prophet's domicile was surrounded by all the
+ancient females in Mecca. Their cries became so
+loud that they attracted Mahomet's attention;
+he went out to them. 'Oh, holy Prophet! holy
+prophet!' they cried. 'Well, what do you
+want?' 'You have said that there are no old
+women in heaven. Whatever shall we do?' The
+Prophet was not in the least nonplussed for an
+answer. 'Quite true,' said Mahomet, 'quite
+true, I said so. There are no old women in
+heaven; they all become young so soon as they
+arrive there!'"
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_139' name='Page_139' href='#Page_139'>139</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER XIII.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+The band—Turkish melodies—Turkish music like a Turkish
+dinner; it is a series of surprises—Turkish etiquette at
+dinner—The pack-horse is lame—The people ask for many
+liras—The Postmaster is in bed—The chief of the police—Horse-copers
+in Aleppo—The fair sex in that city—A test
+for lovers—We burn our fingers soon enough after marriage—Domestic
+life in the harems in Angora—The immorality
+in Yuzgat—Mr. Gasparini—Turkish hospitality—Armenians
+dress like Turks—Christian women—Great
+harmony between Turks and Christians—Armenian testimony
+doubtful—The prison at Sivas—Hearsay evidence—A
+Turkish veterinary surgeon—Horse-dealers—Two pounds
+offered for the horse—History of the Ottoman Empire—The
+Bey's present—Generosity of the Turks—The devil is
+not so black as he is painted.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+By this time the guests had consumed many
+cigarettes, smoked numerous Nargilehs, and
+drank freely of the liqueurs. The host, rising,
+proposed that we should adjourn to the dining-room.
+There we found three musicians with
+instruments much resembling banjos.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We are to have some music," said the Bey,
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_140' name='Page_140' href='#Page_140'>140</a></span>
+the Pacha's son, who was one of the guests. "I
+am afraid that it will not be much to your taste.
+Our melodies are very different to those which
+you are accustomed to hear in Europe."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He was quite right; Turkish melodies are very
+different. There is a wildness and pathos about
+many of them which strikes the stranger accustomed
+to the more regular measure which
+distinguishes European music. Now they resounded
+so plaintively that the guests involuntarily
+ceased talking. Another instant the
+instruments, bursting forth with a startling crash,
+half deafened us with the clamour.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The performers swung their heads from side
+to side, and kept time with the quickening air;
+the strains went faster and faster. The guests
+were inspired with the musicians' enthusiasm.
+All the heads began to swing, we Europeans
+involuntarily marking the time with our feet on
+the floor. The musicians panted with their
+exertions. Suddenly the melody left off abruptly,
+and one of the performers commenced a doleful
+dirge. This did not last long, and when he
+was in the most pathetic part, another crash from
+the orchestra interrupted him in the middle of a
+verse.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Turkish music is exactly like a Turkish
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_141' name='Page_141' href='#Page_141'>141</a></span>
+dinner," observed one of the guests; "it is a
+series of surprises; the leader of the orchestra
+goes from <i>andante</i> to a racing pace without any
+<i>crescendo</i> whatsoever; the cook in the same
+manner—he first gives us a dish as sweet as
+honey, and then astonishes our stomachs with a
+sauce as acid as vinegar. Now we are eating fish,
+another instant blanc-mange. A vegetable is
+next placed before us, and our stomachs have
+scarcely recovered from their astonishment, when
+a sweet soup is served up with some savoury
+pastry."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The servants, who were much more numerous
+than the guests, vied with each other in serving
+the different dishes. Twenty attendant domestics
+were arranged in Indian file. So soon as the
+host made a sign to the leading domestic, each
+kind of food was replaced by another, and number-two
+servant was prepared with fresh viands, while
+number one, who had hurried to the kitchen,
+returned with another dish.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The table was a raised one, chairs were
+placed round it. This was done in honour of the
+European visitors. We all ate with our fingers,
+each man helping himself according to his rank or
+social position. It was not etiquette for a Cadi
+to seize a piece of meat before the Bey put his
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_142' name='Page_142' href='#Page_142'>142</a></span>
+fingers in the dish, a captain had to be careful not
+to offend the susceptibilities of a colonel.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To eat blanc-mange <i>à la Turque</i> requires some
+practice; however, the Consul and the Italian
+doctor had been for some time in the East, and
+used their fingers as readily as a knife and
+fork.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At last our dinner was over. Fruit, mincemeat,
+dishes of vegetables, sweets and raisins,
+salads and creams, concluding with a huge bowl
+of boiled rice, had been disposed of, the whole
+having been washed down by tumblers of red
+country wine very like Burgundy.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Praise be to God!" said our host, rising; his
+example was followed by the rest of the guests.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A servant poured water over the hands of the
+visitors, beginning with each man according to
+his rank. We adjourned into another room. Here
+coffee, <i>tchibouks</i>, and <i>nargilehs</i> were handed round
+to the company.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A servant now approached, and said that
+Osman was waiting outside, and wished to speak
+to me.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What is the matter?" I inquired. "Have
+you come to tell me how very industrious you are,
+or do you want some more money?" I had
+previously observed that when Osman wished to
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_143' name='Page_143' href='#Page_143'>143</a></span>
+speak to me, these two topics were almost invariably
+the subject of his conversation.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, Effendi, but the horse—"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Which horse?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The bay that makes a noise."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, what of him?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He is lame. My brother has seen him. I
+have seen him. He will not be able to carry his
+pack to-morrow."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Hire two horses instead of one, and lead the
+roarer."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, Effendi, that is what I have been trying
+to do; but the people ask for many liras; their
+hearts are stony at the sight of our difficulties,
+they open wide their purses for the Effendi's
+gold."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Have you been to the post?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, but the postmaster has ten horses, and
+only one man to look after them. The postmaster
+says if you hire two baggage animals that
+you must pay for ten."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Wait here, Osman," I said; returning to my
+host, I informed him of my difficulties.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh! the dog!" exclaimed the Bey. "He is
+trying to cheat you!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Tearing a piece of paper from an old letter in
+his pocket, he wrote a note to the chief of the
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_144' name='Page_144' href='#Page_144'>144</a></span>
+police, desiring him to bring the postmaster immediately
+before us.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The postmaster is in bed," said Osman, who
+had entered the room.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"In bed or out of bed, he shall be brought here,"
+said the young Bey, stamping the piece of paper
+with his seal, he gave it to a servant. Presently
+a noise was heard. The postmaster arrived, followed
+by the chief of the police.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You must give this English gentleman two
+horses at once."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, Bey Effendi."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But why did you not do so before?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Because I did not know that it was the Bey's
+pleasure—the will of the son of our Pacha is my
+will. Upon my head be it; the horses shall come."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Good horses," I remarked, "stout and
+strong."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Have I not said so?" replied the man, and it
+was agreed that I was to hire two horses as far as
+Yuzgat, paying the regular tariff of three piastres
+for each horse per hour.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"People in Turkey who deal in horses are
+great rogues," said the Bey; "are they the same
+in your country? A horse-dealer near Kars would
+try and get the best of his dearest friend in a
+bargain."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_145' name='Page_145' href='#Page_145'>145</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"They are much the same in England," I replied;
+and the young Bey began to tell us some
+stories of horse-copers in Aleppo, where he had
+passed some years, and in which town the fair sex
+was more than usually frail.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The young men in that city have a curious way
+of showing their affection to the lady of their
+choice," continued the speaker. "A girl has, say,
+three lovers—a small allowance for a lady in that
+part of the world—she does not know which to
+select, each one of the suitors is eager to display
+his gallantry."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What does she do?" asked one of the party.
+"Accept them all?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, she takes three bits of live charcoal from
+out of the fire; giving each of her lovers a piece,
+she tells them to place it in the palms of their
+hands. The fire burns through the skin, the
+tendons are laid bare; sometimes the amorous
+gentlemen will resist till the flesh has been burnt
+to the bone. Here one or two of them generally
+succumb to the torture; the man who resists the
+longest, wins the lady."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But if they are all equally indifferent to pain,
+and the charcoal burns out, what happens then?"
+I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The lady takes three more pieces of charcoal,
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_146' name='Page_146' href='#Page_146'>146</a></span>
+and begins again with the other hand," replied the
+Bey. "The more they resist, the better the girl
+likes them, because it is a proof to her mind
+that they value her more than their own
+torture."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Did you ever try it?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No," said the Bey, laughing. "I can get a
+wife without any trouble, so I do not care about
+burning my fingers. We burn our fingers quite
+soon enough after marriage, as it is."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," said the doctor, and he began to give
+me a long account of the domestic life in some of
+the harems in Angora.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+According to the doctor's experiences there was
+a great deal of immorality amidst the fair sex in
+the city, although nothing to what existed in Yuzgat,
+another town which I should pass by on the
+way to Kars. In Angora, although the women
+are very unfaithful to their husbands, yet everything
+is kept more or less concealed. In Yuzgat
+it was very different, and there you could actually
+see the dance of the Turkish gipsy women, although
+in Angora it was strictly prohibited.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+M. Gasparini was doing a large practice. He
+had been established for ten years in Angora and
+its neighbourhood. From his position as a medical
+man he had the opportunity of knowing more
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_147' name='Page_147' href='#Page_147'>147</a></span>
+about the domestic life of the inhabitants than the
+other European residents.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, although the women may be immoral,
+the men are very hospitable," said the Consul.
+"Wherever a stranger may go he is always received
+with the greatest hospitality. A few
+years ago a friend of mine, Mr. Thompson, was
+travelling from the Black Sea to Angora. He
+arrived at a village. The Khan was full, every
+room was occupied. However, he was an old
+traveller, and could easily accommodate himself to
+circumstances. Taking his cloak, he lay down in
+the yard and prepared to pass the night in the
+open air. Presently he was awakened by a tap
+on the shoulder. On looking up, he found an old
+Turk bending over him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why are you sleeping here?" inquired the
+Mohammedan.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Because there is no room in the Khan."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"This is not right. A stranger, and outside
+the gate. Come with me."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Taking Mr. Thompson by the hand, the Turk
+led him to his house, gave him a clean bed and
+his breakfast, waited himself upon his guest, and
+would not receive any remuneration.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Now," added the Consul, "the Turk was a
+Mohammedan, and Mr. Thompson a Christian; if
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_148' name='Page_148' href='#Page_148'>148</a></span>
+the Turk had been in England, and had found
+himself placed in a similar predicament to Mr.
+Thompson, do you think that there are many
+Englishmen who would have behaved so generously
+to an utter stranger?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The following day I called upon some Armenian
+gentlemen, and found their houses furnished
+like my host's, with thick carpets, divans, and
+pipes, the walls being bare and whitewashed.
+Pictures and looking-glasses were seldom to be
+seen, the latter being a very costly luxury, owing
+to the difficulty of carriage.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Armenians dressed in a similar manner to
+the Turks. The Christian women were closely
+veiled whenever they left the house. In many
+instances, an Armenian was not permitted to see
+his wife<a name='FA_12' id='FA_12' href='#FN_12' class='fnanchor'>[12]</a> before marriage, and had to take her,
+as the Yankees say, "on spec."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Great harmony existed between the Turks and
+Christians. Whenever I dined with an Armenian
+there were always Mohammedans present. When
+I visited a Turk's house, I generally found Armenians
+amongst the visitors. On inquiring
+whether this state of things prevailed elsewhere, I
+was informed by the Armenians that in other
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_149' name='Page_149' href='#Page_149'>149</a></span>
+parts of Anatolia, and more particularly in Sivas,
+the Christians were ill-treated by the Turks, and
+that the prisons were filled with Armenians.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+During my stay at Ismid I had heard precisely
+the same story of the sufferings of the Christians
+at Angora. I had been told that the Armenians
+were cruelly oppressed, and that justice was never
+shown to them. However, in Angora the two religions
+did not seem to clash. The Mohammedans
+and Christians were on the best of terms. I
+began to be a little sceptical as to the truth of the
+statement about Sivas, and determined not to form
+any opinion on the matter from mere hearsay evidence,
+but to see with my own eyes if the prisons
+were so full of Christians as the Armenians in
+Angora would have had me believe.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Later on in the day, Radford suggested that it
+would be as well for me to sell the lame horse
+and buy another; he was doubtful whether,
+even without his pack, the animal would be able
+to march to Yuzgat. The poor beast was very
+lame, the frog of his foot was much swollen.
+Whilst we were talking, a Turkish veterinary surgeon
+arrived: taking out his knife, he made a
+slight incision in the swollen place.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Meantime several horse-dealers, learning that I
+wanted to buy a horse, brought me some animals
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_150' name='Page_150' href='#Page_150'>150</a></span>
+for inspection, at the same time offering me
+the liberal price of 2<i>l.</i> sterling for my own
+animal.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well," said one man, extracting some silver
+from what appeared to be an old stocking, "I will
+give twelve medjidis."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Your heart is very hard, brother, soften it a
+little," said Osman. "Our horse shall not go for
+less than forty silver pieces. You love your money,
+but we love our horse still more."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Nobody would give this sum, and as I thought
+that possibly the operation performed by the
+Turkish veterinary surgeon might benefit the
+animal, I determined to wait another day in
+Angora. This would also give me an opportunity
+of inspecting more closely the old Augustin
+monument, one of the curiosities in the town.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To my great delight the operation proved successful;
+in the evening the horse could walk without
+much pain. He would be able to march on
+the following morning, and so I gave orders for an
+early start. Just before leaving, a servant arrived
+from the Pacha's palace. The young Bey, who
+had observed that I much admired a work entitled
+the "History of the Ottoman Empire," and which
+was in his library, had sent it to me as a present,
+and hoped that I would do him the honour of
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_151' name='Page_151' href='#Page_151'>151</a></span>
+accepting the book as a memento of my visit to
+Angora. There were about ten volumes, the weight
+would have been at least twenty pounds, and a
+considerable addition to the baggage. Much to
+my regret, I was obliged to decline the kind offer.
+The hospitality of the Turkish nation is proverbial.
+The generosity of the Turks is equally great.
+In fact, they carry this virtue to excess. Sometimes
+after having admired a horse, I have been
+surprised to find that the steed has been sent to
+my stable, with a note from the owner, entreating
+my acceptance of the animal.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I often experienced great difficulty in finding
+excuses for not accepting the presents so generously
+offered to me by my entertainers. "I
+cannot take any more luggage," I would say, if the
+present were at all cumbersome. However, if it
+were a horse, I could only decline the gift and say
+that I had not sufficient servants to look after the
+animals.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But I have plenty of servants, take one of
+mine; he will accompany you throughout your
+journey, and then will return to me," would be the
+answer.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+People in this country who abuse the Turkish
+nation, and accuse them of every vice under the
+sun, would do well to leave off writing pamphlets
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_152' name='Page_152' href='#Page_152'>152</a></span>
+and travel a little in Anatolia. There is an old
+saying that "the devil is not so black as he is
+painted," and in many things writers who call
+themselves Christians might well take a lesson
+from the Turks in Asia Minor.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_153' name='Page_153' href='#Page_153'>153</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER XIV.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+We leave Angora—The Effendi wants a turkey—A very old cock—The
+cooking-pot—An Armenian woman on horseback—Baggage
+upset in the river—Cartridges in the water—Osman
+castigating the delinquent—Delayed on the road—Asra
+Yuzgat—How the inhabitants build their houses—The
+Caimacan—His house—His servants undress him—He
+goes to bed—All the cartridges spoiled.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+My host was up at daybreak to see me off.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Come and see me in England," I said.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"If Allah pleases, I will," was my friend's
+reply, and I only hope that I may have the opportunity
+of returning Suleiman Effendi's hospitality.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The road was hard and good for a few miles,
+we rode for some time by the Ayash river.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After marching for about five hours, we came to
+a small farm-house. It was on the opposite bank of
+the river to ourselves; but there was a ford, and
+as there was no wood on our side of the stream, I
+determined to cross and halt an hour for lunch.
+The house belonged to an Armenian. It was
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_154' name='Page_154' href='#Page_154'>154</a></span>
+filthily dirty. Vermin could be seen crawling
+in all directions on the rugs. In consequence of
+this, I resolved to make our fire outside, and lunch
+in the open air. There were some turkeys in the
+farm-yard, and the proprietor coming up, I desired
+Osman to purchase one of the birds.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Effendi wants a turkey," said Osman to
+the farmer.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This announcement at once created a great
+commotion among the female portion of the
+Armenian household—the turkeys being looked
+upon by the women in the establishment as their
+own particular property.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What for?" said an elderly dame, whose
+face was bound up in what appeared to be a dish-cloth.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"To eat."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Have you any money?" asked the woman
+suspiciously.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Money?" said Osman indignantly; "much
+money. We can afford to eat turkey every day!
+Now, then, how much for this one?" pointing to
+an old bird, apparently the paterfamilias of the
+brood.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Osman is an ass, sir," here interfered Radford.
+"That is a very old cock. Osman has his
+eye on him because he is the biggest, he thinks
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_155' name='Page_155' href='#Page_155'>155</a></span>
+that we can chew leather, that he do." And pursuing
+the brood, my English servant succeeded in
+catching a young pullet, which he brought
+triumphantly to the woman.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How much?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Twelve piastres" (about eighteenpence), replied
+the woman.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Twelve piastres," said Osman; "it is a great
+deal of money—we could not afford to eat turkey
+at that rate; say ten, and have done with it."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The bird is a hen, and will have eggs,"
+observed the farmer.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"She may die and have no eggs, and then you
+would have lost ten piastres," said Osman.
+"Come, be quick," he added, "pick the turkey!"
+And giving the woman the money, the old dame
+retired to a little distance to prepare the bird for
+the pot.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When Radford had finished his cooking, and
+had helped me to some of the turkey, he put the
+remainder in my washing-basin, and handed it to
+Osman, for himself and the man with the pack-horses.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why do you not give them the cooking-pot,
+and let them eat out of it?" I inquired. "Perhaps
+they will not like eating out of my washing-basin."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_156' name='Page_156' href='#Page_156'>156</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I thought of that, sir; but the pot is that hot
+that they would burn their fingers a-shoving them
+into it. Nasty, dirty fellows they are too; preferring
+dirty fingers to nice clean forks! But
+Osman, sir, he ain't that nice. He is the greediest
+feeder I ever see, he would eat out of a coal-scuttle
+sooner than not fill himself. See there, sir, he has
+got that turkey's leg. I knew he would have it!
+It was on the baggage-man's side of the basin,
+and Osman had eaten already one drumstick: the
+other ought to have gone to the chap with the
+horses. But Osman ain't got no conscience about
+eating, whatever he may have when he is flopping
+himself down on my coat and pretending to say
+his prayers."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After luncheon the two Turks were so long in
+loading the pack-horse that I determined to ride
+forward with Radford, and let the other men
+follow with the luggage. We had continued the
+journey for about an hour when, after ascending
+a hill, I turned round to see if there were any
+signs of my followers. Nothing was in sight
+except an Armenian woman, who was on horseback,
+she was riding cross-legged, and carried a
+baby in a handkerchief which was slung from her
+neck.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Had she seen Osman?" I inquired.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_157' name='Page_157' href='#Page_157'>157</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No," was the answer.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Desiring Radford to remain where he was, I
+galloped back in the direction of the farm-house.
+On arriving by the river-side a singular picture
+met my gaze. A pack-horse was dripping from
+head to foot, and was without his saddle. All the
+baggage was wet through. My cartridges, tea,
+sugar, and coffee were spoiled; Radford's bag,
+containing his pig tobacco, lay dripping wet
+by the side of the river. Osman was swearing
+violently at the man in charge of the pack-horses,
+and from time to time was administering to him
+a blow with a stick across the shoulders. The
+chastised individual was sobbing violently. On
+seeing me he threw himself down on the ground
+and began to embrace my knees.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What has happened?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+They both commenced speaking together.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Stop! One at a time," I remarked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, you dog!" said Osman to his fellow-countryman.
+"How dare you speak? He did
+not lead the horse, Effendi, he drove the animal
+before him, and the horse lay down in the
+river. Everything is spoiled! Oh! you refuse of
+a diseased sheep,"—this to the culprit. "And
+the Effendi's cartridges, he will not be able to
+replace them; and my brother, what will he say
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_158' name='Page_158' href='#Page_158'>158</a></span>
+about his tobacco? he will be angry—he may beat
+me! I knew your mother, your grandmother,
+and great-grandmother—they were all most improper
+characters—and you, you hound, you are
+the worst of the family!" As he said these
+words, Osman began to flog the delinquent most
+unmercifully.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was obliged to interfere, taking my servant
+by the collar, I ordered him to desist, and at once
+to load the baggage animal.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This accident delayed us considerably on the
+road. Some time after sunset, on looking
+at my watch, I found that we had only placed
+an eight hours' march between ourselves and
+Angora. We were on a large plain, which was
+surrounded by hills; our path wound round
+the slopes of the adjacent height, presently the
+village of Asra Yuzgat appeared in sight. It is
+built on the side of a hill. We were soon riding
+on the tops of the houses, and had to be very
+careful lest our horses should suddenly come upon
+an open chimney. Some of the roofs had fallen
+in. The moon shining on the white rafters gave
+a ghastly appearance to the scene.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The people in this part of Anatolia have a very
+economical way of building their habitations.
+The man who is old enough to take unto himself
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_159' name='Page_159' href='#Page_159'>159</a></span>
+a helpmate, and who is about to leave his father's
+roof, marks a piece of ground, generally of an
+oblong shape and on the side of a hill. He next
+digs out the earth to the depth of about seven
+feet. Then, hewing down some trees, he cuts six
+posts, each about ten feet high, and drives them
+three feet into the ground, three posts being on one
+side of the oblong and three on the other. Cross-beams
+are fastened to the tops of these uprights, and
+branches of trees plastered down with clay cover
+all. A few planks, with a hole made in them to
+serve as a doorway, enclose the outer side of
+the building, and a broad heavy plank closes
+the entrance, hinges being replaced by strips of
+cowhide. A wooden railing divides the room
+into two parts; one of them is tenanted by
+the sheep, oxen, camels, and cows of the proprietor,
+the other by himself and family. No partition-wall
+separates the cattle from their master;
+and the smell which arises at night from the confined
+air and from the ammonia in the building is
+excessively disagreeable to a European. In cold
+weather a hole in the roof, which serves as a ventilator,
+is stopped by a large stone. Fuel, often
+made from cow's dung, first dried and then
+mixed with chopped straw, is thrown on the fire.
+The inmates, sometimes consisting of twelve or
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_160' name='Page_160' href='#Page_160'>160</a></span>
+more people, lie huddled together on the floor.
+This last in the poorer houses is covered by rugs
+made of camel's hair, and in the wealthier establishments
+by thick Persian carpets.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The barking of the dogs, which swarmed around
+us, speedily awoke the inhabitants, and a middle-aged
+Turk, clad in a thick brown mantle, approaching
+me, said that he was the Caimacan or governor,
+and that he hoped I would stay at his house that
+night.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It appeared that my friend the Bey at Angora
+had written to him about my journey, and had said
+that I should reach Asra Yuzgat at sunset. The
+Caimacan knew nothing of our accident on the
+road: as we had not arrived by one hour after
+nightfall, he had gone to bed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+His house was not a large one. It consisted of
+two rooms, a kitchen and a reception-room. The
+latter apartment was used for all purposes. The
+owner remarked that he was going on a shooting
+expedition the following morning; he proposed
+that I should join his party. There were,
+according to him, a great many partridges and hares
+in the neighbourhood. However, my cartridges
+had been probably all of them spoiled in the river,
+so I was obliged to decline the invitation.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was rather tired, and wished to go to bed.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_161' name='Page_161' href='#Page_161'>161</a></span>
+On expressing a wish to this effect, a mattress
+was produced, and put down in one corner, and
+a second the other side of the room for the
+Caimacan. Three or four servants were present.
+No one seemed to have any intention to retire.
+I took off my clothes, lay down on the mattress,
+and drew over myself a marvellous thing in the
+way of <i>yorgans</i>, a silk counterpane of as many
+colours as Joseph's coat, and lined with feathers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Are you warm?" said the Caimacan.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Every one is warm with that <i>yorgan</i>," he continued.
+"It is light, and there are no fleas in it.
+You will sleep well."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He now prepared to go to bed. The four servants
+assisted him. First they drew off his boots,
+and then his nether garments; the Caimacan
+glancing from time to time at me out of the
+corner of his eye, probably wishing to see what
+impression the fact of his having four servants to
+put him to bed had produced on my mind. He
+had been astonished when I undressed myself,
+and had remarked,—
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why, you have two servants, and you take off
+your own clothes! What is the good of having
+servants if you do not make them useful?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+By this time he was in bed. His attendants
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_162' name='Page_162' href='#Page_162'>162</a></span>
+lay down by his side; Radford and Osman in
+another corner. The one tallow dip which lit the
+room was carefully extinguished; soon nought
+could be heard save the snoring of the slumberers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I arose at daybreak, and unpacked the wet
+cartridges, then, taking my gun, I tried some of
+them; snap—snap—they would not explode. It
+was no use stopping for the shooting party; so
+desiring Osman to commence loading the horses,
+I took leave of my host.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_163' name='Page_163' href='#Page_163'>163</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER XV.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+The Kizil Ermak—No bridge in the neighbourhood—How to
+cross the river—The current—Can my brother swim?—How
+to embark the horses—Osman's expostulation—Bandaging
+the horse's eyes—Yakshagan—Fresh post-horses—An
+uncivil official—Madeh—Silver-mines—Water in
+the pits—Proper machinery wanted—Engineers required—Kowakoli—Vines—How
+to preserve grapes—Sugar very
+dear—A farmer—The Angora famine—The late Sultan—Russian
+assessors—We do not wish to be tortured to
+change our religion—Allah is always on the side of
+justice—Sekili—The pace of a <i>Rahvan</i>—Marble hovels—Hospitality—Foreign
+settlers—A Kurdish encampment—The
+tax-collectors—The wealth of the Kurdish
+Sheiks—The Delidsche Ermak—Fording the river—A
+district abounding in salt—Turkoman girls—The many
+languages spoken in Anatolia—A lunch under difficulties.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We rode across a low ridge of mountains, rocks
+which looked like iron ore lying about in all
+directions, and presently arrived at the Kizil
+Ermak, a broad and rapid stream which runs
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_164' name='Page_164' href='#Page_164'>164</a></span>
+into the Black Sea, about fifty miles S.E. of
+Sinope. The distance across the river was at
+least one hundred yards, the left bank being
+very precipitous. The depth of the water,
+owing to the recent rains, was not less than
+seven feet. There is no bridge in the neighbourhood,
+the nearest being twenty-four miles
+higher up the river; I was curious to learn how
+we should reach the other shore. The guide
+soon solved the problem. Riding about half a
+mile along the bank, he put two fingers in his
+mouth and whistled. In a few minutes the sound
+was answered from the opposite side of the river.
+Six men appeared in sight. Descending the
+bank, they dragged a triangular-shaped barge from
+some rushes, and, getting into it, began to pull
+with all their might in our direction. The current
+was very swift, the starting-point was nearly
+half a mile beyond us; but notwithstanding this,
+the oarsmen overshot their mark. We had to
+lead our horses some little distance before we
+reached the boat.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was a queer sort of a craft, certainly not
+more than twenty-five feet long, and about sixteen
+in its widest part. Its sides were two feet
+above the water: the men could not approach the
+bank nearer than twenty yards. The bottom was
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_165' name='Page_165' href='#Page_165'>165</a></span>
+muddy. Our horses would have to walk through
+the mud to the boat, and then jump over the bulwarks.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There were altogether eight horses, my own
+four, three belonging to the post, and the animal
+the guide rode, a brute which kicked, and already
+had slightly lamed my grey.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I shall be drowned," said Osman plaintively,
+"I know I shall! Can my brother swim?" pointing
+to Radford.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What does he say, sir?" inquired my English
+servant.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He wants to know if you can save him if he
+falls into the water."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Save him? no, sir. I cannot swim a stroke.
+I wonder what our engineers at Aldershot would
+say if they had to get us over in such a craft as
+this? It is wuss than a pontoon!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The boatmen wanted to take four horses across
+at a time; a veto was put upon this proposal on
+account of the guide's horse; it was determined
+that he should go alone. Taking the saddle off my
+own animal, I led him into the water; on reaching
+the boat I climbed into it, and tried to make
+the horse follow. This was by no means an easy
+task, he had sunk at least a foot into the mud,
+and evidently did not fancy the leap into the bark.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_166' name='Page_166' href='#Page_166'>166</a></span>
+Three of the boatmen now got into the river.
+One of them, seizing my horse's tail, twisted it
+violently, the others poked him from behind with
+their oars. Osman all this time was expostulating
+with the animal from the bank.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Dear horse, jump in! You shall have as much
+barley as you can eat this evening."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This argument not having any effect upon the
+horse, Osman's language waxed stronger, and he
+heaped numerous curses upon the animal's ancestry.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Drat you!" said Radford at last; "you are
+always a-talking when there is something to do.
+Go and help, can't you?" Suiting the action to
+the word, he gave a push to the noisy Turk,
+which nearly upset him into the water.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At length, and by the exertions of all our
+party, my horse was persuaded to make an effort.
+Rearing himself up, he placed his two fore-feet
+in the boat. A chorus of oaths and ejaculations—the
+hind-legs followed. Once safely in, I bandaged
+his eyes. The other horses, seeing that
+one of their number was embarked, followed
+without much difficulty.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We floated down the stream for some distance,
+and at a great speed, before the boatmen could get
+any command over their craft, which whirled
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_167' name='Page_167' href='#Page_167'>167</a></span>
+round as if in a whirlpool. Fortunately the horses
+were all blindfolded, and could not see the water.
+At last we reached the opposite bank, having
+descended the stream for more than a mile from
+our starting-point. So much time was lost in
+getting the other horses over, that night was upon
+us before we reached our destination, Yakshagan,
+a large village with two hundred houses. It was
+only fourteen miles from Asra Yuzgat, though,
+owing to the river, we had employed from sunrise
+to sunset in the journey.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At Yakshagan it was necessary to hire fresh
+post-horses. The official at the station was very
+uncivil, and declared that he would not supply me
+with any unless I paid for three horses from
+Angora. I had only engaged two, however, the
+man with them had chosen to bring a third animal,
+instead of riding on one of the baggage horses.
+At last the difficulty was settled by the guide, who
+was known to the postmaster, saying that he
+would be responsible for the amount; whilst I
+agreed to refer the matter to the authorities at
+Yuzgat, and abide by their decision.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I started rather late, in consequence of the
+altercation. After a five hours' ride along a good
+road and through a beautiful country, we arrived
+at Madeh. Here there are several silver-mines
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_168' name='Page_168' href='#Page_168'>168</a></span>
+which, till very lately, have been worked by the
+Turks. I was informed that water has recently
+found its way into the pits. In consequence
+of this the miners had abandoned them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is a great pity," said an old Turk, an inhabitant
+of the village. "With proper machinery
+it would be easy to pump out the water, and
+these mines abound in silver."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We have got nothing but paper money in
+Anatolia," he added sorrowfully, "all this rich
+metal lies buried beneath our feet."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It surprises a traveller to find that the Turks
+make so little use of their mines. In the course
+of my ride from Angora I had passed through a
+country apparently abounding in iron, and with
+many traces of coal. At Madeh there is silver,
+whilst copper is also found in the immediate
+neighbourhood. With intelligent engineers to
+explore the mineral wealth of Anatolia, Turkey
+would be able not only to pay the interest of her
+debt, but would speedily become one of the
+richest countries in the world.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+From Madeh we continued the march to Kowakoli.
+The country on each side of the road
+is covered with vines. The grapes in this part of
+Turkey are very large. The inhabitants preserve
+the fruit throughout the winter by hanging
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_169' name='Page_169' href='#Page_169'>169</a></span>
+it up in cellars. The atmosphere is dry;
+unless the temperature falls much below zero,
+and the grapes freeze, they can be kept till the
+early spring. There is no wine made in the neighbourhood.
+The Armenians, who in other parts of
+Anatolia make large sums of money by distilling
+spirits, here neglect this branch of industry. The
+grapes are either eaten, or the unfermented juice is
+kept to sweeten pastry, for sugar is very dear,
+and costs more than a shilling the pound. This
+price is beyond the means of not only the poorer,
+but even of the wealthier inhabitants of the district.
+In consequence of this they drink their
+coffee without sweetening it, and look upon a present
+of a few pounds of sugar as a donation
+worthy of a sultan's generosity.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was hospitably entertained by an old farmer.
+He bewailed the disasters caused by the Angora
+famine, which had been felt throughout all this
+district. The road from Angora had been blocked
+by snow for three months and a half. His cattle
+all died from starvation, his goats had also
+perished. The late Sultan, Abdul Aziz, had sent
+large sums of money and food to the suffering
+people; but the roads were impassable, and
+the provisions could not reach their destination.
+Many poor people had died of hunger with cartloads
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_170' name='Page_170' href='#Page_170'>170</a></span>
+of corn and barley only a few miles from
+their doors.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+My host had one son, a lad about sixteen
+years of age. The boy regretted that he was
+not old enough to join the sultan's forces.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Your time will come soon enough," observed
+his parent.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He does not know what war is like," added
+the farmer sorrowfully. "A great many men
+have gone to Servia from this neighbourhood, and
+several have been killed. God grant, if my boy
+should have to go, that he may return to his old
+father."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Is there much enthusiasm here for the war?"
+I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Immense," replied the farmer; "the people
+feel that it is a question not only of religion but
+also of property. We landlords should not like
+to have Russian assessors grinding us down to
+the last piastre. We do not wish to be tortured
+to change our religion, and we do not want to be
+made soldiers against our will."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But you are all soldiers now," I remarked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, because it is the time of war, and it is a
+struggle for our very existence. When the fighting
+is over, our young men will return to their homesteads,
+and gladden their families once more."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_171' name='Page_171' href='#Page_171'>171</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Do you think that you shall be able to withstand
+your foe?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Allah is always on the side of justice, and He
+will give us the victory," rejoined the old man
+proudly. "Our land shall drink our blood ere we
+give up one foot of soil to the invader."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We now rode towards Sekili, a village about
+twenty-seven miles from our sleeping quarters.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Presently my grey horse began to walk lame.
+He had been kicked by the guide's animal on the
+previous day. My weight was too much for the
+poor little brute. I resolved to change horses
+with Osman, who was much lighter than myself.
+Calling the Turk to my side, I desired him to dismount,
+and then mounted the ambling steed. The
+pace of a Rahvan, or ambling horse, is an easy one
+for the rider; and the animal can get over the
+ground at the rate of about five miles an hour;
+the ordinary walk of the small Turkish horses
+being not much above three.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We passed by some hovels. Their walls were
+built of marble; the roofs were made of
+beams covered with mud; the pure white rock
+presenting a striking contrast to its filthy surroundings.
+Marble abounds in this neighbourhood.
+Large blocks were lying on all sides of us, and
+along our path. Some ruins in the vicinity
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_172' name='Page_172' href='#Page_172'>172</a></span>
+showed that hundreds of years ago the inhabitants
+of this part of Anatolia were able to utilize their
+quarries.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Poor Turkey, she has descended the steps of
+civilization, and not ascended them like European
+nations.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+However, though mud hovels have replaced the
+marble palaces of the Turk's ancestors, the Turks
+themselves remain unchanged. Hospitality—their
+great virtue—is as rife in 1877 as in the
+days of Mohammed II. No matter where an
+Englishman may ask for shelter, he will never find
+a Mohammedan who will deny him admittance.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We left behind us some mountains of slate,
+and rode over rich soil, which had been left
+fallow for miles around.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There are not inhabitants enough to cultivate
+the land," was the guide's answer to a question
+from me about the subject.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He was doubtless right. Asia Minor, like
+Spain, needs a threefold population to develop
+her natural wealth. Let foreign settlers go to
+Anatolia. Let them make railways throughout
+the country, it could supply the whole of Great
+Britain with corn, and the mines of coal and of
+other minerals would prove a source of immense
+wealth to the inhabitants.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_173' name='Page_173' href='#Page_173'>173</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Later in the day we passed a Kurdish encampment.
+The Kurds all lived in circular black
+tents, and some women, with unveiled faces,
+rushed outside the dwellings to see the strangers
+pass.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Turkish authorities have great difficulty
+in collecting the taxes from this nomad race.
+Whenever the Kurds expect a visit from the tax-collector,
+they pack up their chattels and migrate
+to the mountains. Here they can place the
+Turkish officer at defiance, and only return to
+the plains when their spies have announced the
+enemy's departure. A few years ago the wealth
+of the Kurdish sheiks was very considerable;
+many of them owned twenty, and even thirty
+thousand sheep, besides large droves of horses,
+and numerous herds of cattle. The famine, however,
+which devastated the province, was as disastrous
+for the Kurds as for the Turks. It has
+left them in a wretched state of poverty.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Delidsche Ermak, a tributary of the
+Kizil Ermak, crossed our path. There was no
+bridge, and we had some difficulty in finding a
+ford. At last the marks of some horses' hoofs
+showed our guide the exact spot: riding into the
+stream—here about fifty yards wide—and with
+the water up to his horse's girths, he piloted us
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_174' name='Page_174' href='#Page_174'>174</a></span>
+over in safety. The bottom of the river is firm.
+I was informed that the stream becomes very shallow
+during the summer months; the inhabitants
+can then cross it with their ox-carts.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The village of Sekili is made up of twenty
+mud hovels. Our accommodation for the night
+was not of a luxurious kind. But after a long
+and tiring march a man speedily reconciles
+himself to circumstances. A fire was lit. Two
+old hens were stewing in the pot. A kettle full
+of tea simmered on the fire; and with a pipe after
+dinner, things looked a little brighter than at
+first. We next traversed a district abounding
+with salt. The soil sparkled in the sun. The
+crystal substance was visible for a considerable
+distance. Presently some Turkoman girls, with
+high, picturesque head-dresses, rode by us at a
+gallop: their merry laughter rang in the air as
+they passed. Soon afterward we came to their
+village, the habitations being nothing more or
+less than a few holes in the side of a hill. The
+Turkomans pronounce Turkish rather differently
+to the Turks. At first I had some little difficulty
+in making myself understood. Indeed, a
+man must be a polyglot to know all the languages
+spoken in Anatolia. Armenian, Greek, Circassian,
+Kurdish, Tartar, Persian, Georgian, and Arabic,
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_175' name='Page_175' href='#Page_175'>175</a></span>
+besides Turkish, are heard within a radius of one
+hundred miles. The different sounds in these
+languages are very puzzling to a stranger who is
+trying to perfect himself in Turkish.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Some Turkomans, dressed in white tunics,
+broad red trousers, and with grey sashes round
+their waists, were sitting idly at the entrance to
+their burrows. A woman, in a crimson dressing-gown,
+and a few girls, with naught on save long
+white shifts, and caps, were busily engaged in
+drawing water from a neighbouring well. Some
+goats, which had descended the hill, were feeding
+on the roofs of the houses.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We entered one of the dwellings, but so many
+fleas were hopping about that I determined to
+eat my lunch in the open air. The proprietor
+of the hovel was very much surprised at our preferring
+the cold outside to the shelter of his
+domicile.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"My Effendi does not like fleas," said Osman.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There are not many here!" said the proprietor.
+"It does not do to be particular. In Sekili," he
+continued, "fleas abound, the Effendi ought to
+be accustomed to them by this time."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What does he say, sir?" asked Radford, as
+Osman gradually explained the Turkoman's remarks
+to me.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_176' name='Page_176' href='#Page_176'>176</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Say! He says that you ought to be accustomed
+to fleas by this time."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Accustomed, sir? No, but they are getting
+accustomed to me. Haldershot is a joke to this
+here Turkey so far as fleas are concerned."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Presently my servant continued,—
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"These Turks, sir, ain't got no decent tobacco,
+why a pipeful of cavendish, or good bird's hi, is
+worth all the hay they smoke. No wonder people
+in England abuse the Turks—and quite right too.
+Men who might grow shag tobacco, and prefer
+growing hay tobacco, can't be of much account."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_177' name='Page_177' href='#Page_177'>177</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER XVI.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+A victim to the famine—Daili—A conversation with some
+Turkomans—The massacre of the Teke Turkomans by the
+Russians—Women violated—Little boys and girls abused
+and murdered—The Muscovite is a beast—Should not you
+like to cut the throats of all the Russians?—What is
+the best way to get rid of a wasp's nest?—A war of extermination—Yuzgat—A
+cavalcade of horsemen—Mr. Vankovitch—The
+telegram—Our reception—Old friends of
+the Crimea—Some visitors—Things have altered for the
+better—The Christians at Yuzgat—Armenians and Turks
+dine together—Mr. Vankovitch's experiences—The Polish
+insurrection—General Muravieff—Brutality to the women
+at Vilna.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On the track once more; and now we came to a
+large stone, in the middle of the path. This
+marked the resting-place of a victim to the recent
+famine. The poor fellow had fallen down from
+exhaustion, and had died on this spot. It was
+too much trouble for the survivors to move his
+corpse, they had made a hole and buried him
+where he lay.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_178' name='Page_178' href='#Page_178'>178</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+My grey horse, which Osman was riding, still
+went very lame; so I limited our march to six
+hours, and stopped at the little village of Daili.
+Here there were only fifteen houses. Many camels
+and herds of cattle were grazing in the neighbourhood,
+and the ground appeared to have been
+cultivated for a considerable distance. On this
+occasion the fortune of travellers gave us better
+quarters. The house in which we were lodged
+was clean. A raised dais of wood was set
+apart for the servants. Mattresses with cushions
+were reserved for the proprietor and his
+guests.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There were some Turkomans in the village, and
+when the news was spread that an Englishman
+had arrived, several of them came to see me.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We are so glad to see an Englishman," said
+an old man, the spokesman for their party.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Osman now interrupted him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Effendi, they want to tell you that they hate
+the Muscovites, and that they hope England will
+not allow the Tzar's soldiers to massacre them
+like they (the Russians) massacred the Teke Turkomans."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Were many women and children belonging to
+the Teke Turkomans killed by the Russians?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The old man shook his head.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_179' name='Page_179' href='#Page_179'>179</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Many! many!" he replied. "The women
+were violated by the soldiers. The little boys and
+girls were abused and then murdered. The
+men took pleasure in these awful crimes. The
+Muscovite is a beast! He is worse than a hyena;
+the hyena sucks the blood of his victim, but the
+Russian satisfies his lust first, and then tears to
+pieces the object of his pleasure."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We hear," he continued, "you have as
+Padishah, a lady. What does she think of this
+way of treating the Turkoman's little ones?"<a name='FA_13' id='FA_13' href='#FN_13' class='fnanchor'>[13]</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"And what do you think yourself?" he added.
+"Should not you like to cut the throats of all the
+Russians?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This was rather a strong way of dealing with
+the question. However, if I had been a Turkoman,
+and my own sisters had been treated by the
+Russians in the way the Turkoman women have
+been, I should have looked upon the matter from
+a Turkoman point of view.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"They are not all equally guilty," I replied.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Equally guilty! Yes they are. From the
+Tzar upon his throne to the soldiers who do his
+bidding they are a nation of assassins! What is
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_180' name='Page_180' href='#Page_180'>180</a></span>
+the best way to get rid of a wasp's nest?" he now
+inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Smoke it, and destroy the young ones," I replied.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, that," said the Turkoman, "is what we
+must do with the Russians. We must kill them
+all. And Allah will be with us; for He knows
+who began the butchery."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Have many men gone from this village to the
+army?" I asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Every able-bodied man is serving, and we are
+now, all of us, going to the front; greybeards as
+well as boys. We feel that it is a war of extermination.
+If we do not defend our homesteads,
+woe betide us!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On leaving Daili the track was firm and good
+for the first three hours; it then became very
+precipitous, and led down steep declivities, and
+over a succession of boulders. At last we came to
+a large circular plain; it was surrounded by hills;
+on one side of this vast natural basin, and on a
+slope, lay Yuzgat.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As we were nearing the walls a cavalcade of
+horsemen appeared in sight. One of them advancing
+saluted us by touching his fez, and then
+addressed me in excellent French. He was a
+Pole, Vankovitch by name, and was employed as
+chief engineer in the district. He had received
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_181' name='Page_181' href='#Page_181'>181</a></span>
+a telegram from the Italian doctor, M. Gasparini,
+of Angora, to say that I was on the road, and had
+ridden out with some Armenian gentlemen to
+welcome us to the town.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+An Armenian now asked me to take up my
+quarters in his house. I had been lodged beneath
+a Turkish roof at Angora, and was curious to see
+the difference between the Christian and Mussulman
+mode of living. I gladly accepted the offer.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Many more horsemen, Turks and Armenians,
+joined us ere we entered the city. I now
+learnt that my kind friend, the Bey at Angora,
+had telegraphed to some of his acquaintances,
+asking them to do what they could to make my
+stay at Yuzgat pleasant.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The news of the approach of an Englishman
+had already been spread through the town.
+The inhabitants had all turned out to have a look
+at the stranger.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"An Englishman in Yuzgat is indeed a surprise
+for the inhabitants," said a young Turk
+who was riding by my side. "I do not believe
+that one of your nation has been here for the last
+twenty years. We Turks are not ungrateful," he
+continued, with a smile. "We have not forgotten
+our old friends of the Crimea, and what you did
+for us then."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_182' name='Page_182' href='#Page_182'>182</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Please God you will do as much now!" said
+another horseman. "Anyhow your arrival has
+created an immense excitement; there was not
+so great a crowd to see the Pasha of Angora,
+when he paid us a visit."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Sir," observed Radford, who, surprised at the
+tremendous ovation I was receiving from the crowd,
+had gradually sidled up to my horse, "this
+reminds me of our riding after Don Carlos in Spain.
+Only in Spain, all the people came to look at
+Don Carlos, and here they have come to look at us.
+Just, sir, for all the world as if we were a Lord
+Mayor with his men in harmour riding in state
+by the Horse Guards. There have been a lot of
+dirty Turks kissing Osman already, so pleased
+they seem to see him; and two or three men
+were slobbering over my boots as we rode up the
+hill!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We entered a courtyard: dismounting, I
+ascended some steps which led to my host's
+house. The room placed at my disposal was
+furnished in a similar fashion to the one which
+I had inhabited in Angora. Several servants
+hastened to pull off my riding-boots, and the
+proprietor said that some Armenians were waiting
+outside, they wished to speak to me. "Would
+I see them?"
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_183' name='Page_183' href='#Page_183'>183</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"By all means," I replied; "show them in."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Several men entered; they were dressed in
+various costumes, the dressing-gown pattern being
+evidently a favourite amidst the inhabitants of
+Yuzgat. The visitors ranged themselves against
+the wall in order, according to their social positions,
+and then salaamed me. On my returning
+the salute, the gentlemen squatted down upon the
+floor, and the salaaming ceremony was repeated.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"They have come to ask whether you will
+honour them by inspecting the Armenian school,"
+said my host, who, of higher rank than the visitors,
+had not squatted down on the floor, but was
+seated with his legs tucked under him on the
+divan.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We are all Christians," said an old, and very
+dirty Armenian, who looked as if water and he
+had long been strangers to each other.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is a pleasure to see a Christian," he added.
+"It does me good."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We are all delighted!" said the rest of the
+company. Whereupon we salaamed again.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How do you like the Turks?" I now inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"They get on very well together," observed the
+Pole, who had accompanied me home, "and the law
+is carried out very fairly for all classes. I will give
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_184' name='Page_184' href='#Page_184'>184</a></span>
+you an instance. The chief of the telegraphs
+in Yuzgat is an Armenian. One day he saw a few
+Turkish boys teazing some Armenian children,
+and calling them giaours. He beat the Turkish
+children. Some Turks, coming up, took the
+part of the Mohammedan lads, and struck the
+telegraph-man. The latter complained to the
+authorities; the Turks who had beaten him were
+at once imprisoned."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Twenty years ago this would not have
+happened," said another of the visitors; "but
+here things have altered for the better."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"However, at Sivas," he continued, "you will
+find that the Christians are horribly ill-treated by
+their Pacha. The prison is full of Christians.
+There is no sort of justice in that city. The
+Pacha takes away Christian little boys and girls
+from their parents, and shuts them up in his
+seraglio."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Is this true?" I inquired of Mr. Vankovitch.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"They say so. But you must remember that
+you are in the East," was the Pole's reply.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Personally," he added, "I make a rule to
+believe nothing except what I see myself. You are
+going to Sivas?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, you will be able to judge for yourself.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_185' name='Page_185' href='#Page_185'>185</a></span>
+At all events, the Christians in this town are not
+oppressed in any way. You see Armenians and
+Turks dining together at the same table, and so
+far as justice is concerned, the Christians obtain
+quite as much of it as the Mohammedans."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Armenians, who by this time had finished
+their coffee, now left the room; and Mr. Vankovitch
+remaining behind, began to tell me of his
+experiences in Asia Minor, and of the cause which
+had induced him to leave his own country.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He had been educated in the Military College
+at St. Petersburg, and had passed his examination
+for the engineers just before the Polish
+insurrection. He had joined the rebels, and
+taking command of a large band which had
+assembled near Vilna, had fought against the
+Russians for more than two years. General
+Muravieff, known to history by his brutality
+to the women of Vilna, published four proclamations
+offering rewards for Vankovitch's head.
+Fortune favoured the young Pole, who was able
+to escape his foes. When the rebellion was suppressed,
+he succeeded in reaching Odessa, and
+made his way on board a Greek ship bound
+for Constantinople. After being two days at
+sea, the vessel, owing to bad weather, was
+obliged to put back into harbour. The captain
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_186' name='Page_186' href='#Page_186'>186</a></span>
+then said, that as some Russian officers would
+be certain to come on board, it would be better
+for Vankovitch to remain concealed in a friend's
+house, until the ship could sail. He took the
+advice; but left all his clothes and other effects in
+the cabin.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The vessel started that night; he did not
+receive any warning, and the captain, carrying off
+his luggage, robbed him of everything he had
+in the world. The Polish committee in Odessa
+raised a little money for their brother in misfortune:
+after paying for his passage in another
+steamer, he arrived at Constantinople with barely
+five pounds in his pocket. This was soon
+spent, and then in order to earn his bread, he
+obtained employment as a road-maker. The
+engineer who superintended the work discovered
+that the navvy knew as much about road-making
+as he did himself. He promoted him
+to be assistant-engineer.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Vankovitch complained that he was unable to
+write to his father, a gentleman who resided near
+Vilna. The engineer had sent two or three
+letters; but on each occasion the envelopes were
+opened by the Russian police, and the parent had
+been heavily fined, simply because Vankovitch
+had dared to write to him.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_187' name='Page_187' href='#Page_187'>187</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER XVII.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+M. Perrot—Armenian customs—Man and wife—We keep our
+wives for ourselves—My host's niece—Law about divorce—Shutting
+up the wives—Turkish husbands—How to get
+a divorce—Marrying a divorced woman—Population of
+Yuzgat—Crime—Mines in the neighbourhood—Tax paid in
+lieu of military service—The Circassians—Their promise to
+the Turkish Government—Tax on land; on house-property;
+on corn—Cattle—Collectors of taxes—Jealousy about religious
+matters—Dissensions amongst Christians—American
+Missionaries—A loyal address—The market—A
+bazaar two stories high—A walk through the town—Gipsy
+women—An elderly dame—Obstreperous young
+ladies—The old woman dances.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+My host now returned, and informed me that
+M. Perrot, a French author who wrote a book
+about Asia Minor, had resided beneath this
+roof. On turning over the leaves of the
+work, which had found its way to Yuzgat,
+I came to a page in which M. Perrot observes
+that "one day I inquired of my host why
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_188' name='Page_188' href='#Page_188'>188</a></span>
+he did not introduce me to the lady of the
+house?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is our custom," was the reply. "And I
+find it a wise one. What good does it do me if
+other men see my wife? I took her for myself;
+she is my property. I have heard that you Europeans
+spoil your wives; mine is educated properly.
+When I enter my harem, she comes to
+kiss my hand, then she stands upright before me
+in a respectful attitude, and she only opens her
+mouth when I address her."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On showing my host the paragraph, he observed,
+"When M. Perrot was here, my father
+owned this house. I remember the circumstance
+well. I was in the room when M. Perrot
+asked my father to introduce him to my mother.
+I suppose my parent was under the impression
+that in Europe you keep your wives for your
+guests; but anyhow we keep our wives for ourselves."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What!" I inquired, "would you not introduce
+me to your sisters or mother?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, certainly not."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. Vankovitch here interposed with the remark
+that on the following day my host's niece
+was to be affianced to her future husband; that
+the bridegroom had not set eyes upon the face
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_189' name='Page_189' href='#Page_189'>189</a></span>
+of his intended, and no one in Yuzgat, save her
+own immediate relatives, had ever seen the young
+lady.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well," I inquired, "and if the wife of an
+Armenian is unfaithful to him, can he obtain a
+divorce?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No," replied my host; "our religion does
+not allow of such a step; he does not even see his
+wife's face before marriage."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Then he has no opportunity of studying her
+character, and she has no opportunity of studying
+his."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"They are a set of fools," said Vankovitch to
+me in Russian, this language not being understood
+by the proprietor. "They think that by
+shutting up their wives, they can keep them out
+of mischief, but the husbands are very much
+mistaken."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We need not be surprised at it," he continued;
+"an Armenian lady is in no way educated.
+She is confined in a harem. She is the
+slave of her husband, and has to do all sorts of
+menial work for him—wash his feet, rub them
+dry, and wait at table. From her earliest childhood
+a girl is brought up to consider herself
+as a slave in her father's house; until the
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_190' name='Page_190' href='#Page_190'>190</a></span>
+Armenians abandon these barbarous customs,
+their so-called Christianity will not do them
+much good. A Turkish husband has no difficulty
+in obtaining a divorce—in fact he is not even put
+to the expense of going to a court of law. All
+he has to do is to say, in the presence of a
+witness, 'I renounce you,' and he is at once
+freed from his wife, who is at liberty to go
+where she likes, and marry whomsoever she
+pleases."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"If a Turk," added Mr. Vankovitch, "once
+renounces his wife before a witness, he cannot
+withdraw his renunciation. There is a story that
+a woman, who wished to be divorced from her
+husband, dressed up one of her female slaves in
+man's clothes and provided her with false whiskers
+and beard. On entering the harem late at night
+the husband found this disguised figure lying by
+the side of his wife. He was furious, and at once
+renounced the, as he thought, faithless lady.
+There is a curious law about marrying a divorced
+woman which is not generally known by Europeans,"
+continued the speaker. "If a Turk has
+divorced his wife, but she wishes to return to
+him and he to take her, the lady first of all must
+be married to some other man, and the rites in
+their entirety be accomplished; the new spouse
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_191' name='Page_191' href='#Page_191'>191</a></span>
+then divorces her. After this process she can
+return to her former husband.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"A husband who wishes to take to himself again
+his divorced wife, generally chooses some beggar,
+almost always a very old man; he then offers
+this elderly individual a sum of money to marry
+the lady and afterwards renounce her. Sometimes,
+however, there are difficulties in carrying
+out these arrangements. The lady takes a fancy
+to the beggar, and the beggar to the lady. The
+pauper will not divorce her, and the original
+husband is laughed at by the rest of the community."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There were 10,000 inhabitants in Yuzgat, but
+there was very little crime. Only one execution
+had taken place during the last fifteen years, and
+this had been for murder.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The town itself is, comparatively speaking, of
+recent date, its construction dating back 130
+years. The neighbourhood abounds with mines,
+and I was assured that iron, silver, and coal had
+been found near the city.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Armenians did not serve in the army as
+soldiers; but in lieu of military service, paid the
+Ottoman Government twenty-eight piastres thirty-two
+paras every year for each male child, from his
+birth to his death.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_192' name='Page_192' href='#Page_192'>192</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Circassians, of whom there are a great
+many in this part of Turkey, are not compelled to
+join the army; but they have promised the
+Government that every able-bodied man amongst
+them shall turn out as an irregular horse or foot
+soldier, should his services be required.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The people in the province of Angora are
+taxed as follows:—If ground is cultivated, the
+proprietor gives the Sultan the tithe of the
+crop.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The owner of a house pays 4<i>l.</i> per 1000<i>l.</i> of the
+estimated value of his abode, that is to say, if he
+is living in it himself. If on the contrary he lets
+it, he must pay 40<i>l.</i> per 1000<i>l.</i> The tax for
+people engaged in trade or commerce, is 30 per
+cent. on their profits. If a merchant sells corn in
+a town, he has to pay a duty of two paras for every
+twenty okas of grain purchased from him, and
+should he dispose of a horse, sheep, or ox, in the
+market-place, he must give the Government 2½
+per cent. of the proceeds of the sale. A farmer
+has to pay the Government four piastres a year if
+he is the owner of a goat, and three for each
+sheep he possesses. The collectors of taxes in
+almost every instance were Mohammedans; many
+of the Christians grumbled at the way they
+were assessed.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_193' name='Page_193' href='#Page_193'>193</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+If an Armenian girl expresses a wish to become
+a Mohammedan, this gives rise to great jealousy
+between the Turks and Christians. At the same
+time the Armenians who profess the Armenian
+faith detest any member of their community who
+has accepted the Roman Catholic or Protestant
+doctrines. The Christians being much more
+intolerant towards the dissenters from their
+respective creeds than the Turks are to the
+Christians.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There has hardly ever been an instance
+of a Turk accepting Christianity, but the
+American missionaries in Asia Minor were said
+to have converted many Armenians to Protestantism.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Roman Catholic missionaries have not
+been idle. A number of Armenians no longer
+reverence the Patriarch in Constantinople, but
+look upon the Pope as the Head of their
+Church.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Turks laugh in their sleeves at the discord
+in the ranks of the Christian community.
+They cannot understand why so much hatred and
+ill-feeling should exist between people who worship
+the same Messias.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This difference of opinion amongst the Christians
+is by no means displeasing to the Turkish
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_194' name='Page_194' href='#Page_194'>194</a></span>
+authorities; it renders any union between the
+Armenians and Russia exceedingly difficult.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The following morning a servant brought a
+paper to my host for his signature. It was a
+loyal address from the principal people in Yuzgat
+thanking the Sultan for the Constitution. None
+of the Armenians believed in the reform. Most
+of them held the same opinion as the inhabitants
+of Angora, namely, that the projected
+Constitution was thrown out as a bait to catch
+some of the plenipotentiaries at the Conference,
+and that when the Conference was forgotten
+the Constitution would be numbered with the
+past.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Vankovitch now called. I walked with him
+to the market which he was constructing for
+the townspeople. It was not a large building,
+being about eighty yards long by thirty wide;
+the houses were each of them two stories high,
+built of hewn stone and with glass windows; the
+latter a great luxury for the natives, glass having
+to be brought all the way from Samsoun, a port
+on the Black Sea. The difficulties of transport
+were very great, half the glass arrived in a
+fractured state, this, and the extreme difficulty
+of carriage, added enormously to its cost
+price.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_195' name='Page_195' href='#Page_195'>195</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the market there was literally nothing which
+would have attracted an observer's attention.
+Some of the Armenians sold dye, wood, and goat's
+hair; others traded in cotton stuffs and calicos,
+one or two American lamps to burn petroleum
+were in the window of a small shop which was
+kept by a Greek.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The engineer had experienced considerable
+difficulty in persuading the townspeople to let
+him construct a bazaar two stories high. "Our
+fathers have always been satisfied with one story,"
+remarked the tradesmen, "then why should not
+we?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In spite of the opposition, Vankovitch, with
+the Caimacan's assistance had managed to carry
+the day. The people who had grumbled the
+loudest about the new order of things, were the
+first to take apartments in the two-storied building.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We continued our walk through narrow lanes,
+and by the side of tumble-down hovels, till
+we arrived on the summit of a hill, the outskirts
+of the town. Some good-looking gipsy
+women with brown complexions, large dark eyes,
+and long black hair, were standing at the door of
+one of these habitations.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"These are the dancers," said Vankovitch;
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_196' name='Page_196' href='#Page_196'>196</a></span>
+"Dr. Gasparini telegraphed from Angora to ask
+me to arrange a gipsy dance for you. Let us
+go and talk to one of the old women, and
+choose the girls who are to perform."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+An elderly dame recognized my companion;
+she advanced, and invited us to enter her
+house. When our errand was known, great
+excitement ensued amidst the younger damsels
+of the gipsy community. Each one trusted
+that her good looks and skill in the Terpsichorean
+art would influence my companion in his
+choice.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Be quiet!" said the old woman indignantly
+to some of the more obstreperous of her young
+ladies, who, to show my companion their agility,
+were performing a sort of cancan step, very
+different from those dances which I had hitherto
+seen in the East.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Now, then, Effendi," to my companion, "how
+many girls do you require?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Three."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, three you shall have. The most beautiful
+and gazelle-like of our tribe. I will come
+myself," continued the old lady, "and I too will
+dance, if only to show the Frank Effendi what
+our dance is like."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_197' name='Page_197' href='#Page_197'>197</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was as much as I could do to keep my
+countenance; the old woman was very fat; some
+of the girls, catching my eye, went off into fits
+of laughter.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Ah! you may laugh, children," said the old
+woman indignantly, "but none of you can dance
+like I can. They are not supple like I am,
+Effendi. They cannot move their hips. They
+cannot sway the lower part of their bodies. Look
+here!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And straightening her aged limbs, the old
+woman commenced wriggling her different joints,
+the girls applauding her, and beating time with
+their hands to each movement of the dancer's
+body.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Very good," said Vankovitch, as she sank
+down on a divan, with a force which would have
+smashed any less strong piece of furniture.
+"Very good. You dance like a stag. You shall
+come too."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Thank heavens," he remarked in French, "that
+she did not throw herself on to my lap, for this
+is the custom of these wild dancers; if she had
+done so, there would not have been much left of
+me. But come along, let us return; it is very
+stuffy here."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_198' name='Page_198' href='#Page_198'>198</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After making an appointment with the old
+lady for the dancers to come to us on the
+following evening, we descended the hill and
+walked towards the principal mosque in the
+town.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_199' name='Page_199' href='#Page_199'>199</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+The Mosque—The interior of the building—The lamps of
+different-coloured crystal—The Turks engaged in prayer—Comparison
+between Christians and Mussulmans—Daravish
+Bey—A wonderful shot—<i>Djerrid</i>—A strange request—The
+chase—A Bosnian lady—Her costume—A side-saddle—Even
+their women go out hunting—Daravish
+Bey dressed for the chase—A long shot—The price of a
+horse's forage—Most servants rob their masters—A Russian
+officer—The Armenian schools—The girls' school—Perhaps
+you would like to ask the boys some questions?—An
+amateur setter of questions—Mr. Marillier
+of Harrow school.—A sum—The schoolboys of Yuzgat—A
+half-holiday.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On taking off our shoes at the entrance, we
+were at once admitted into a large building
+constructed in the form of a dome. Two vast
+circular halls leading the one into the other, were
+beneath the lofty ceiling. Stained glass windows,
+with infinitesimally small panes, allowed but
+little light to penetrate to the interior, which was
+carpeted with rich Persian rugs of many hues and
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_200' name='Page_200' href='#Page_200'>200</a></span>
+fashions. Chains, descending from the centre of
+the building, supported a huge circular hoop of
+iron. From this were suspended a hundred lamps
+of different-coloured crystal. Two enormous wax
+candles, each as thick as a man's leg, and about
+seven feet high, were fixed in a corner of the
+building. They had been made to last a year,
+and had cost "tchok para"—a great many
+paras.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The attendant evidently thought that he should
+impress my mind with this announcement, and he
+uttered the word "tchok" in a way which no
+Englishman could imitate save when he is in
+the extreme agonies of sea-sickness. Forty or
+fifty Turks were lying on the floor, and seemed to
+be in no way disturbed by the entrance of Mr.
+Vankovitch and myself.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Are there always as many people here?" I
+inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There are very few to-day," was the reply;
+"but at whatever hour you may enter, the faithful
+will be found praying to the All-powerful One
+who rules the Universe."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This, indeed, I subsequently discovered to be
+the case. No matter how early or late I might
+enter a mosque, there were always some men on
+their knees, praying to the Almighty; and whenever
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_201' name='Page_201' href='#Page_201'>201</a></span>
+a service was going on, the mosques were
+invariably crowded.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"They pray more than Europeans do," said
+my companion, the engineer, as we quitted the
+mosque. "With us," he added, "the women
+throng the churches, the men are conspicuous by
+their absence; in Turkey you will hardly ever
+meet a man who is in the habit of absenting
+himself from his mosque. Indeed, a Mohammedan's
+superstitious feelings would not allow him
+to do so, even if he felt inclined; he would think
+that the Divine vengeance would at once pursue
+him to his destruction."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We now called upon a Turkish gentleman,
+Daravish Bey. Presently he left the room, and,
+returning, brought an old flint-gun, marked
+"London, 1802." He next suggested that we
+should join him in a shooting excursion, and, calling
+a servant, desired the man to bring in a falcon.
+This, Daravish Bey said, would be very useful, as,
+if we missed the partridges, the hawk would catch
+them for us.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We shall then have some game to show when
+we return," he continued, "and the people will not
+be able to laugh at our beards."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Vankovitch is a wonderful shot," said another
+Turk. "He shoots partridges flying! Only
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_202' name='Page_202' href='#Page_202'>202</a></span>
+think! flying in the air! In the name of heaven,
+is it not wonderful? Can you hit a partridge,
+except when he is quite still?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Sometimes," I said; "but, unfortunately,
+most of my cartridges are wet; any how, I will try
+and find a few dry ones, and will go with you to-morrow."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There is another thing which you must see
+before you leave Yuzgat," observed Daravish Bey,
+"and that is our national game, Djerrid. I have
+already spoken about it," he continued; "the
+day after to-morrow all the best riders in the
+neighbourhood will assemble on the plain outside
+the town. In the meantime, I hope that you will
+dine with me this evening."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But I am staying with an Armenian gentleman,
+and he will expect me to dine at home."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Bring him with you. Nay, do not disappoint
+me," he added. "It is many years since
+an Englishman has been at Yuzgat, and we
+do not know how to honour one sufficiently
+when he is here. England and Turkey are
+old allies, and God grant that they may remain
+so!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I returned to my quarters, and found the Caimacan,
+who had come to pay me a visit. He was
+very busy, as he had to arrange for some redif
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_203' name='Page_203' href='#Page_203'>203</a></span>
+soldiers who were to be despatched at once to
+Constantinople. After a few compliments and a
+cup of coffee, he arose and took his departure.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+My host now observed,—
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Effendi, will you do me a favour?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What is it?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Mr. Vankovitch has discharged one of his
+under officers, an Armenian. The man is a
+friend of mine—will you ask Mr. Vankovitch to
+pardon my friend, and reinstate him in his
+situation?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The officer is a thief," said the engineer,
+"for that reason I got rid of him. But this
+remark of our host will show you what sort of
+people these Armenians are. He is well aware
+that the fellow is a rogue. He knows that I do
+not wish to take him back; to try and make me
+do so, he asks you, who are ignorant of the circumstances,
+to intercede in the matter."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You will intercede?" said the host.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How can I? Mr. Vankovitch must know the
+man's character better than I do."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But Mr. Vankovitch would do it if you asked
+him."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I certainly shall not give him the opportunity
+of refusing," I replied. And seeing that I was
+obdurate, my host left off pressing me for the
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_204' name='Page_204' href='#Page_204'>204</a></span>
+moment, but only to return to the attack on the
+following day.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The next morning, and soon after daybreak, we
+assembled for the chase. The engineer had
+mounted me on a magnificent coal-black Arab.
+He himself rode a little bay, with good shoulders
+and fine action; whilst his wife, a Bosnian lady,
+who was attired in a light blue riding-habit, a hat
+with a peacock's feather, and who wore on her
+boot a long cavalry spur—was mounted on a
+chestnut.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Vankovitch had slung his gun across his
+shoulders. His double-breasted shooting-coat
+was dotted with cartridge-cases in the Circassian
+style. He was an object of great interest to a
+crowd of bystanders, and was evidently the
+chasseur par excellence of Yuzgat. Some Turkish
+women, wrapped up in long white sheets, stared
+through the corners of their veils at Mrs.
+Vankovitch, and were very much astonished at
+the proceedings, for the lady was on a side-saddle,
+which the engineer had lately received from Constantinople.
+It was only the first or second time
+that it had been seen in Yuzgat. The giaour
+woman balanced on a peg on the side of the
+saddle was a source of considerable wonder to the
+assembled crowd.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_205' name='Page_205' href='#Page_205'>205</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How odd these giaours are!" said a Turk to
+his neighbour. "Why, even their women go
+out hunting! What a thing to ride on! Look,
+she has only one foot in the stirrup, and her other
+leg is across a peg in the saddle."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How could you sit cross-legged if you had on
+that very thin, long dressing-gown which she is
+wearing?" said another bystander. "But here
+come Daravish Bey and his brother. They are
+actually going with the Frank to the chase!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The attention of the crowd was now taken up
+by the new arrivals.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The two Turkish gentlemen were both dressed
+alike in black cloaks lined with fur, and which
+descended to their heels. Gold necklaces passing
+through diamond rings encircled each man's neck.
+Red waistcoats, buttoned up high in front, exposed
+to view an inch or two of limp, unstarched
+shirt-front; loose black trousers covered their
+legs, and a blue and white shabrach their highly-gilded
+saddles.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+An attendant on a pony bore a falcon on his
+arm. Some pointers and a greyhound brought
+up the rear of the procession. Radford carried
+my double-barrelled gun, and a few cartridges,
+which on careful inspection seemed not to have
+been damaged by the wetting in the river. He
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_206' name='Page_206' href='#Page_206'>206</a></span>
+was also a source of wonder to the crowd. It
+was whispered about that the gun which he carried
+was like the Pole's fire-arm, and that it would
+sometimes shoot partridges on the wing.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We rode over a mountain, covered with pebbles.
+Presently one of the pointers began to
+sniff. Vankovitch thought that there was some
+game close at hand. He dismounted from his
+horse, accompanied by Daravish Bey, who was
+armed with the old English flint-gun. A crowd
+of men and urchins, who had followed us on foot
+from Yuzgat, watched the proceedings with the
+greatest interest. Suddenly a covey of partridges
+rose about a hundred and fifty yards from the
+Pole. Two reports sounded in rapid succession,
+the birds flew away untouched. The attendant
+released the falcon, and in a few seconds a
+partridge was in its claws.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A hare broke from behind an adjacent
+rock. In a moment we were in headlong pursuit,
+the Bosnian lady riding foremost of the
+flight, her horse taking the boulders and loose rocks
+which strewed the path in a way that showed
+he was well accustomed to this style of hunting.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A well-known sound made me turn my head.
+To my surprise I saw a young Turk galloping
+after me on Osman's horse—the roarer. I
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_207' name='Page_207' href='#Page_207'>207</a></span>
+had given orders that the animal was to be left in
+the stable, so that he might recover from the effect
+of our forced marches the week before.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What are you doing with that horse?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Effendi, I am galloping him," was the quiet
+reply. "Osman lent him to me, and said that he
+was his property. Have I done wrong in riding
+him?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," I said; "take him back at once."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Sir," interrupted Radford, "that is just like
+Osman's himpudence, a-lending things which
+don't belong to him, and he is not that particular
+in returning them either. He is always asking
+me to lend him some tobacco, and very little I
+ever see of it again, except in the smoke which
+comes out of his mouth."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How much are you paying for the forage of
+your horses?" now inquired Vankovitch, who
+had returned with the hare in his hand.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"About seven shillings a day."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Pole began to laugh.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Seven shillings! Do you know, my dear sir,
+that your Turkish servant is robbing you?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Very likely," I replied. "Most servants
+rob their masters. But what is the price of a
+horse's forage for a day?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"About one-and-a-half piastres, or at the present
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_208' name='Page_208' href='#Page_208'>208</a></span>
+rate of exchange about twopence of your
+money. And chickens," continued Vankovitch,
+"what has he made you pay for them in the
+different villages on your route?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"A shilling a piece."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He is a thief," said the Pole, "you have been
+awfully cheated! why, the price in the town is
+only three halfpence for a fat chicken! When we
+return to Yuzgat, send for your man, and let me
+ask him a few questions. You shall not be
+robbed any more if I can help it. It is a bad
+thing for other European travellers, and it gives
+the inhabitants a lesson in robbery. There was
+a Russian officer here a few years ago. He had
+been paying as much as a medjidi a day for each
+of his horses. However, he was a Russian, and
+it did not so much matter."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The following day I went to see the Armenian
+schools. In one of them I found 200 girls
+who, for Turkey, were receiving a fair education.
+Most of them could read and write. A class
+for learning embroidery was well attended,
+some of the elder girls' work being very neatly
+finished. There were two Mohammedan children
+in a sewing class. I was informed that many
+of the Mussulmans had expressed a wish to send
+their children to the school.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_209' name='Page_209' href='#Page_209'>209</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Perhaps you would like to ask the boys some
+questions," said a priest who accompanied me
+through the building.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now if there is one thing I dislike it is being
+turned into an examiner. There is always a
+chance of the boys knowing a great deal more
+than the amateur setter of questions. But, as
+the clergyman pressed me, I tried to remember
+some of the sums which I had once learned under
+the tuition of my highly esteemed old master Mr.
+Marillier of Harrow.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The herring and a half sum would have been
+too easy; I bethought myself of another.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well," said the priest, a little impatiently,
+"they are waiting for you."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There was a dead pause, and I gave the worthy
+divine the following question: "If one man can
+mow a field in three days, and another man in
+four, how long will they be doing the work, if they
+are both mowing it together?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Come," said the divine, "you have set them a
+very easy sum," and he duly translated it into
+Armenian.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is hardly worth doing," said one of the
+schoolmasters, "for of course the answer is three
+days and a half."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Of course, three and a half," said the priest.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_210' name='Page_210' href='#Page_210'>210</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No," I replied.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The engineer began to laugh, and we soon
+afterwards left the school, neither masters nor
+pupils being at all certain in their minds as to
+how they ought to set about doing the sum.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I breathed more freely on arriving in the open
+air, and blessed my old master, who had once set
+me this catch question, for my reputation as a
+profound mathematician is established for ever
+amidst this generation of school-boys in Yuzgat.
+After saying good-bye to the senior pedagogue
+who had accompanied me to the steps of the
+threshold, I asked him to give the lads a half-holiday.
+He very kindly acceded to my request;
+and a cheer from the boys inside, when the good
+news was imparted to them, made me aware that
+they, if not their masters, were in no way dissatisfied
+by my visit.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_211' name='Page_211' href='#Page_211'>211</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER XIX.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+A visit to some Greeks—The Turkish administration—The
+impalement story—The law is equally bad for Turks and
+Christians—Peculiarity about the Armenians and Greeks
+in Yuzgat—The outskirts of the town—An immense
+crowd—Women clad in long white sheets—Throwing the
+djerrid—The game—We rode better in our time—A marriage
+procession—Women riding donkeys—The head of
+the Mohammedan religion at Yuzgat—The respective
+merits of the Turkish and Christian faith—Allah is very
+kind to all true believers—What is the good of insuring?—An
+Armenian church—A raised platform enclosed by
+trellis work—The occupants of the gallery—The women
+will stare at the men—Ladies distract the attention of the
+congregation—The Pole's house—A cheap servant.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I called upon a Greek who had paid me a visit
+on the day of my arrival. Several of his compatriots
+were with him. They at once commenced
+conversing about what they suffered under
+the Turkish administration.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We are very badly treated," said one.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Very badly indeed," said another.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_212' name='Page_212' href='#Page_212'>212</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Are the Christians here ever tortured?" I
+inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Have you ever heard of any of them being
+impaled?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The company began to laugh.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No such things go on in Turkey," said my
+host; "but the law is bad, that is what we mean.
+Just before you arrived, we were talking about a
+Turk who had borrowed some money from one
+of our countrymen and had given a gun as
+security for the debt. The Turk died, and the
+Christian, not being paid what he was owed, sold
+the gun to a friend. Ten years afterwards a son
+of the deceased Turk came and claimed the
+weapon, which he said was his father's property,
+and consequently his own. There were no papers
+or witnesses to prove that the gun had been pledged,
+and the Cadi decided for the Mohammedan."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"If a Turk had been in the Greek's place,
+would the same decision have been given?" I
+inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," was the answer; "the law is equally
+bad for Turks and Christians."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There is one peculiarity about the Armenians
+and Greeks in Yuzgat which attracts the attention
+of the traveller, and this is that many of them
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_213' name='Page_213' href='#Page_213'>213</a></span>
+cannot write their own language, although they
+employ its characters. Their conversation is almost
+invariably in Turkish. In corresponding with a
+friend, both Armenians and Greeks will write in
+Turkish, but with the Armenian or Greek letters.
+The schools, which are encouraged by the Mohammedan
+authorities are improving the Christians in
+this respect. The present generation of children
+can most of them speak, as well as write, in the
+language of their ancestors.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Later on in the day I mounted my horse, and
+accompanied the engineer and his wife to the
+outskirts of the town. Here there is a vast
+natural basin formed by a circular chain of steep
+heights. Yuzgat,<a name='FA_14' id='FA_14' href='#FN_14' class='fnanchor'>[14]</a> which is built on the side of
+a hill, and with its houses towering above the
+plain looks down upon the enormous arena. An
+immense crowd was assembled. Horsemen were
+present of all nationalities, and clad in every kind
+of costume. Turks, Persians, Armenians, Greeks,
+Circassians, Tartars, Kurds, Turkomans, Georgians,
+were grouped together in little clusters, and talking
+to their fellow-countrymen. Hundreds of
+women, clad in long white sheets, had retired
+a short distance, and from a slight elevation
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_214' name='Page_214' href='#Page_214'>214</a></span>
+were gazing down upon the assembled multitude.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Presently the horsemen divided into two sides.
+Each man carried a djerrid or short stick, about
+four feet long, not quite so thick as a man's wrist,
+and weighted a little at one end. The right hand
+of the cavaliers grasped the middle of the djerrid.
+The two bands of mounted men, reining their
+horses back, halted facing each other, and about
+eighty yards apart.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now, at a signal from the leader of one side, a
+horseman dashed forward at the opposing band.
+Brandishing his djerrid in the air, and shouting
+wildly to Allah, he hurled it at one of his opponents.
+The latter, who was on his guard, turned
+his horse on his haunches, and galloped away in
+the same direction as the missile was coming.
+Reaching backward, the rider caught the stick, and
+was greeted by the applause of the bystanders.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Meanwhile the horseman who had first attacked,
+hastened to regain his party. He was pursued in
+headlong career by one of the other side, who in
+his turn hurled the djerrid. The game requires
+considerable skill in horsemanship, and great nerve.
+The stick is thrown with all the rider's strength,
+augmented by the velocity with which his steed is
+galloping. If the missile be not caught or parried,
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_215' name='Page_215' href='#Page_215'>215</a></span>
+but strike a man's body, the effect is often
+serious; bones are fractured. Death sometimes
+ensues. The horses too have to be highly
+trained, so as to be able to halt when at full speed,
+and, turning, to start off in a contrary direction.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We rode better in our time," said an old man,
+attired in a crimson dressing-gown, and who was
+eagerly watching the proceedings, to a companion
+by his side; "but what is that which is coming in
+this direction?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the distance a marriage procession could be
+seen winding amidst the hills. A bride was being
+carried in a cart drawn by oxen to her bridegroom's
+house. A band playing discordant music marched
+in front. Several women enveloped in sheets of
+white muslin rode behind the vehicle. They were
+mounted on donkeys, and sat astride them like
+men. The position is a curious one, particularly
+when the lady wears a short dress.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As the procession passed by the crowd, some of
+the donkeys began to trot. The motion became
+very disagreeable to the fair equestrians. The
+robes began to rise, and the husbands running
+forward, held down their wives' attire. This
+would have provoked the laughter of a European
+crowd, but in Turkey women are looked upon
+as beings to be shut off from the public gaze.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_216' name='Page_216' href='#Page_216'>216</a></span>
+The Mohammedan husband as a rule does not
+like any one to see him walking with his own
+wife. The children too look upon their father as
+a being far superior to themselves. The Turkish
+parent walks first along the road, the children
+next some fifty yards behind their father. Last
+of all comes the wife, alone and neglected. She
+accepts this lot with resignation—her mother was
+a slave before her, and she will remain one till
+death or divorce dissolve the marriage-tie.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I now called upon the head of the Mohammedan
+religion at Yuzgat. He received me very courteously,
+and we conversed for some time upon
+the respective merits of the Mussulman and Christian
+faith. It appeared that very recently a
+house belonging to the Imaum (priest) had been
+burned to the ground.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I hope you did not lose much property," I
+remarked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Everything I had was burned," said the old
+man. "But it did not signify. Allah was kind.
+The inhabitants raised a subscription for me.
+My house will soon be restored," he continued.
+"Allah is very good to all the true believers. If
+a house belonging to one of your Christian Mollahs
+(priests) be burned down, what does he do?" inquired
+the old Mohammedan.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_217' name='Page_217' href='#Page_217'>217</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"His house is generally insured," I replied.
+"He pays a little money every year to a company,
+and then if the edifice is destroyed by fire, it is
+built up again for him."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Does he pay much money?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, if the house is a good one, he has to pay
+a large sum every year."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What is the good of paying at all?" said
+the Mohammedan. "Why does he not trust in
+Allah? That is what I have done. My new
+house will cost me nothing, God is great,
+there is but one God! And Mahomet, he is
+the Prophet of God," added the old man
+piously.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But I thought that you believed in Kismet—destiny,"
+I remarked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Destiny is great, but Allah is greater. He
+created destiny," was the reply.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Do you think that Allah can change His mind?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He is All powerful; he can do what He likes,"
+observed the Imaum excitedly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Later in the day I walked into an Armenian
+church. This was a large building, with red
+carpets, and rather reminded me of a mosque.
+It must sometimes have been bitterly cold inside,
+for there were no stoves in the building. I was
+informed that the upper classes who came to pray,
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_218' name='Page_218' href='#Page_218'>218</a></span>
+all wore furs. As the lower orders are not able
+to pay for any such warm garments, they must
+occasionally be half-frozen when listening to their
+priest's oration.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A raised platform at one end of the church was
+enclosed by trellis-work. It was so constructed
+that the occupants of the gallery could see the
+clergyman, without their attention being occupied
+by the congregation.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"This gallery is for our women," said an Armenian,
+who showed me over the building; "and the trellis-work
+is to prevent them from staring at the men."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Or rather to prevent the men from staring at
+them!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+My companion laughed at the remark.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It answers both purposes!" he exclaimed.
+"But if you look at the screen, you will see that it is
+broken in several places, three or four of the holes
+in the trellis-partition have been made into one.
+The women have done this to obtain a better view."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Do you not separate the women from the men
+in your churches?" he inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Then if the ladies are as pretty as they are
+said to be, your clergyman must find it rather
+difficult to keep the attention of his flock."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was getting dusk. I went straight from the
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_219' name='Page_219' href='#Page_219'>219</a></span>
+church to the Pole's house. There was hardly
+any furniture in it. This he explained by saying
+that he was only temporarily employed at Yuzgat;
+so soon as he had finished building the new
+bazaar he would have to return to Angora.
+A few divans, as in the Turkish houses, surrounded
+the walls. The two-barrelled gun,
+which sometimes "shot partridges flying," the
+wonder of the other sportsmen in Yuzgat, was
+lying in a corner.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After dinner, which was washed down by some
+very fair red wine, manufactured by the Christians
+in the town, a little boy, about twelve years
+of age, entered the room; coming up to my host,
+he whispered something in his ear.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The gipsies have arrived," said Vankovitch,
+turning to the lad. He desired him to lay down
+some carpets at the other end of the apartment.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"That boy does not cost me much," said my
+host, pointing to his servant. "I found him
+starving in the streets a few years ago, during the
+famine. His mother had turned him out of doors.
+The child had nothing to eat. I took pity on the
+poor little fellow, and he has been with me ever
+since; he does more work than all the rest of the
+servants together. Whilst, if I wish to punish
+him, all I have to do is to point to the door."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_220' name='Page_220' href='#Page_220'>220</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER XX.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+The gipsies—A fearful instrument—The musicians—The
+dancers—The chief of the gipsy women—Her attire—Vankovitch's
+wife—A glass of raki—The fat woman—The
+man with the bagpipes—The dance—The two girls—The
+old lady accompanies them—The castanets—What is the
+good of dancing?—The Lord Chamberlain, who is he?—The
+marriage festivals in a harem—The old woman dances
+a <i>pas seul</i>—Osman's interview with Vankovitch—Oh,
+Osman! thou descendant of a line of thieves!—What is
+the meaning of this?—The Effendi's horses—The people at
+the Khans—An undulating country—Mostaphas—Unwillingness
+to fight their country's battles—Several inhabitants
+killed in Servia—Industrious insects—A
+country like the Saxon Switzerland—A district abounding
+with pine forests—The telegraph wire to Sivas—Sawmills—Gogderi
+Soo—A house with two rooms—The stable—The
+fire—The harem—My host and his wives—Two
+shots in the air—The ladies—Their legs—The discomfort
+of the proprietor.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Some gipsy men now entered, and, squatting
+down on the carpet, began to tune their lutes.
+One of their party carried a fearful instrument.
+It was rather like the bagpipes. He at once commenced
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_221' name='Page_221' href='#Page_221'>221</a></span>
+a wild and discordant blast. The musicians
+were followed by the dancers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The chief of the gipsy women was provided
+with a tambourine. She was attired in a blue
+jacket, underneath this was a purple waistcoat,
+slashed with gold embroidery, a pair of very
+loose, yellow trousers covered her extremities.
+Massive gold earrings had stretched the lobes of her
+ears, they reached nearly to the shoulders, and by
+way of making herself thoroughly beautiful, and
+doing fit honour to the occasion, she had stained
+her teeth and finger-nails with some red dye. Her
+eyebrows had been made to meet by a line drawn
+with a piece of charcoal. Gold spangles were
+fastened to her black locks. Massive brass
+rings encircled her ankles, the metal jingling as
+she walked, or rather waddled round the room.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The two girls who accompanied her were in
+similar costumes, but without the gold spangles for
+their hair, which hung in long tresses below their
+waists. The girls, advancing, took the hand of
+Vankovitch's wife, and placed it on their heads as
+a sort of deferential salute. The Pole poured out
+a glass of raki for the fat woman, who, though a
+Mohammedan, was not adverse to alcohol. She
+smacked her lips loudly; the man with the bagpipes
+gave vent to his feelings in a more awful
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_222' name='Page_222' href='#Page_222'>222</a></span>
+sound than before; the lutes struck up in
+different keys, and the ball began.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The two girls whirled round each other, first
+slowly, and then increased their pace till their
+long black tresses stood out at right angles from
+their bodies. The perspiration poured down their
+cheeks. The old lady, who was seated on a divan,
+now uncrossed her legs, beating her brass ankle-rings
+the one against the other, she added yet
+another noise to the din which prevailed. The
+girls snapped their castanets, and commenced
+wriggling their bodies around each other with
+such velocity that it was impossible to recognize
+the one from the other. All of a sudden, the
+music stopped. The panting dancers threw
+themselves down on the laps of the musicians.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What do you think of the performance?" said
+Vankovitch to me, as he poured out another glass
+of raki for the dancers. "It is real hard work, is
+it not?" Then, without waiting for an answer,
+he continued, "The Mohammedans who read of
+European balls, and who have never been out of
+Turkey, cannot understand people taking any
+pleasure in dancing. What is the good of it when
+I can hire some one else to dance for me?" is the
+remark.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"They are not very wrong," I here observed;
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_223' name='Page_223' href='#Page_223'>223</a></span>
+"that is, if they form an idea of European dances
+from their own. Our Lord Chamberlain would
+soon put a stop to these sort of performances in
+England."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Lord Chamberlain, who is he?" inquired
+an Armenian who was present, and who spoke
+French.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He is an official who looks after public
+morals."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"And do you mean to say that he would object
+to this sort of a dance?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But this is nothing," said Vankovitch. "When
+there is a marriage festival in a harem, the women
+arrange their costumes so that one article of
+attire may fall off after another during the dance.
+The performers are finally left in very much
+the same garb as our first parents before the fall.
+We shall be spared this spectacle, for my wife
+is here. The gipsies will respect her presence
+because they know that she is a European."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now the girls, calling upon the old woman, insisted
+that she too should dance. The raki had
+mounted into the old dame's head. Nothing
+loath, she acceded to their request; rising to her
+feet, she commenced a <i>pas seul</i> in front of the
+engineer. First shrugging her shoulders, and
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_224' name='Page_224' href='#Page_224'>224</a></span>
+then wriggling from head to toe, as if she were
+suffering from St. Vitus's dance, she finally concluded
+by kneeling before my hostess, and making
+a movement as if she would kiss her feet.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The following morning, and just before my
+departure, the Pole, who had come to say good-bye
+to me, called Osman to his side.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Effendi is paying two medjidis a day
+for his horses," remarked Vankovitch, "and six
+piastres for a chicken! Oh! Osman! thou
+descendant of a line of thieves! What is the
+meaning of this?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Turk changed colour for a moment; but
+then, collecting himself, replied,—
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Effendi's horses are not like other horses,
+they eat more, and work more. We and he, too,
+we all like large chickens. The Effendi is rich,
+and he pays; he is big, and he eats a great deal.
+He is not giving more money for barley now than
+he gave when he was in Constantinople. The
+people at the Khans tell me the price, I give
+them what they ask. It would not do for me
+to be mean with my lord's gold. In future
+I shall know better. I will find out the proper
+value of everything, and will only pay what is
+just."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I interrupted him.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_225' name='Page_225' href='#Page_225'>225</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Osman," I said, "you are a thief! However,
+as we leave Yuzgat to-day, there is no time for me
+to get another servant. Only, beware! for if I find
+you deceiving me any more, not all the hairs in the
+Prophet's beard shall save you from being discharged."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Effendi knows what is best," said Osman
+coolly. "He has brain, and I—I am the dust in
+his sight. Another time we will not give so much
+for our barley, we will tighten our purse-strings
+to the chicken-sellers. We have all been deceived,
+we will be so no longer."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We rode through an undulating country, in
+the direction of Sivas. The track was firm and
+good; there was an abundant supply of water
+throughout the district, numerous flocks and
+herds were grazing by the side of the path.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After marching for six hours and a half, we
+halted at a Turkoman village, called Kulhurdook,
+which contained forty-five mud hovels.
+With much difficulty I obtained accommodation
+in a filthily dirty barn. Here our horses were
+also sheltered; side by side with them stood
+several cows and oxen. A small piece of carpet
+covered the ground in one corner of the building.
+The proprietor, bringing me a pillow, which once
+had been white, but was now black with dirt,
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_226' name='Page_226' href='#Page_226'>226</a></span>
+placed it under my head, Radford and Osman
+lying down by the side of the horses.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There were several mostaphas, or men belonging
+to the last army reserve, in this village.
+They eagerly inquired if there would be war, but
+did not express any wish to fight their country's
+battles. This struck me as the more remarkable,
+for elsewhere I had observed great martial ardour
+amongst the rural classes. I afterwards learnt
+that several men who had been enlisted from this
+village had been killed in Servia, hence the unwillingness
+of the mostaphas to go to what they
+considered certain death.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I tried to sleep: this was impossible; some
+little insects, which the manager of the Crystal
+Palace advertises as "industrious," proved their
+industry by making fierce onslaughts on my body.
+Repeated groans from Osman made me aware
+that even his skin was not proof against the
+attack; whilst my English servant, who had given
+up all idea of sleeping, was walking about with
+a pipe in his mouth, and probably doing anything
+but bless his master who had brought him
+to such an out-of-the-way region.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Can you not sleep, Radford?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Sleep, sir! No! They are running up my
+legs like coach 'osses. Hosman's skin is like an
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_227' name='Page_227' href='#Page_227'>227</a></span>
+ironclad, but they give him no peace; they worry
+awful, that they do. I have been trying to smoke
+them off me, but 'bacca is nothing to these fleas.
+We shall be eaten alive if we stay here much
+longer—I know we shall!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Having come to much the same conclusion, I
+ordered him to saddle the horses, and, to the
+astonishment of the proprietor of the hovel,
+we left our quarters three hours before daybreak.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Presently the country became more mountainous.
+It reminded me a good deal of the
+Saxon Switzerland, the scenery being very picturesque
+as our path wound round some wooded
+slopes.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We were in a country abounding with pine
+forests. The telegraph-wire to Sivas was stretched
+not far from our track. Many saw-mills, turned
+by the mountain streams, showed where the telegraph-posts
+had been made; they had then been
+dragged by oxen to their destination.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Our road ran through a pleasant valley, and
+by the side of a mountain stream known as the
+Gogderi Soo. In a few hours we arrived at a
+river, called the Tchekar Ermak. It is crossed by
+a weak stone bridge, the stream being about thirty
+yards wide by four deep. We halted for the night
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_228' name='Page_228' href='#Page_228'>228</a></span>
+at the village of Tchirklik, a two days' march, or
+thirteen hours from Kulhurdook.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was accommodated in a house which actually
+possessed two rooms. They were not constructed
+in the side of a hill, as the other dwellings in the
+neighbourhood, but of wood—one room being
+reserved for the proprietor's cattle, sheep, and
+camels, the other for himself and harem.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was permitted to sleep in the stable. Osman,
+with Radford and our horses, were lodged in a
+hovel at the other end of the village.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the middle of the night I awoke with a
+feeling of suffocation, my throat was dry and
+parched, my eyes began to smart; a crackling
+noise overhead could be heard. It gradually
+dawned upon me that the house was on fire. I
+now discovered that the flames from the fireplace
+had ignited some boards in the chimney: they,
+in their turn, had set fire to the roof. If the
+proprietor, who was sleeping in the next room,
+were not immediately aroused, his house would in
+all probability be destroyed. The building was
+surrounded by a courtyard with high mud walls.
+The space outside the dwelling was infested by
+dogs. They at once came smelling around me.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Shutting the door, to prevent the flames from
+bursting out inside, I went to the harem. The
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_229' name='Page_229' href='#Page_229'>229</a></span>
+entrance was barred from within. The proprietor
+and his wives were fast asleep, they paid
+no attention to the noise which I made at the
+door.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is of no use standing upon any ceremony
+with a man when his house is being burnt down:
+drawing my revolver, I fired two shots in the air;
+thinking that the sound of the reports would
+arouse the sleeping inmates. The effect was instantaneous:
+the whole family awoke, the man,
+greatly alarmed, thinking that an attack was being
+made on the village by a tribe of Kurds; slowly
+drawing the bolt, he looked through a crack in
+the door.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Come!" I said, "your house is on fire!
+Be quick, or it will be burned down, and your
+camels and oxen be suffocated!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The proprietor bounded out of the room. He
+was followed by the harem; the ladies, in the confusion,
+did not think of covering their faces, and
+were very scantily attired. They ran to a well in
+the yard and brought some pitchers of water.
+The proprietor by this time had climbed to the
+roof of his house. It was a windy night. The
+gusts were a source of considerable inconvenience,
+to the water-bearers; their hands being occupied
+with the pitchers, they could not arrange their
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_230' name='Page_230' href='#Page_230'>230</a></span>
+garments. The latter fluttered above the ladies'
+heads, to the great discomfort of the proprietor,
+who, much enraged at his house being on fire,
+was equally annoyed at his wives' legs being
+exposed to the view of an unbeliever.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To relieve his mind, I clambered on to the roof.
+From this position the ladies' limbs could no
+longer be seen. After pouring several buckets
+of water on the charred rafters, we managed
+to extinguish the flames.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_231' name='Page_231' href='#Page_231'>231</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER XXI.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+Sileh Zela—Its position—The old citadel—The soil in the
+neighbourhood—A battalion of infantry—The Caimacan—The
+audience-chamber—The Cadi—The battalion going to
+Samsoun—The local authorities—The Colonel—England
+would be neutral—What, desert her friend of the
+Crimea?—An ally in Austria—Andrassy—An old
+Imaum—Propensity for fighting—A Christian Bishop—The
+most bellicose members of society—Yakoob Khan
+of Kashgar—The Russians and the Chinese—The
+Khivans, Bokharians, and Turkomans—A rising of the
+Poles—The ancient city—A secret passage—My tea
+and sugar—Osman has a sweet tooth—My lord's liberality
+praised—Osman to kneel on his own coat—Tartars—Lazy
+husbands—A plain planted with tobacco—Mountains
+covered with vines—Many-coloured sand-hills—A wonderful
+phenomenon—Bazar—Pacha Williams—Teesdale—Kars—Is
+Pacha Williams still alive?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was a bright moonlight night. Not thinking
+it likely that we should obtain any more sleep, I
+determined to start at once, and take advantage
+of the weather. Desiring Radford and Osman,
+who had been aroused by the reports of my
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_232' name='Page_232' href='#Page_232'>232</a></span>
+revolver, to saddle the horses, we set off in the
+direction of Sileh Zela, a town which contains
+3000 houses, and a barracks which will hold at a
+pinch 1500 soldiers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Sileh Zela stands in the centre of a natural
+basin, the hills which form its sides being at a
+distance of six or seven miles from the town. A
+small rising ground near the principal street is
+occupied by the ruins of an old citadel. A
+stream runs through the heart of the city. The
+soil in the neighbourhood is very rich; corn
+abounds throughout the district. The inhabitants
+do not seem to have suffered from the famine
+which a few years ago so depopulated the Angora
+district.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Half a battalion of infantry, about 400 strong,
+was drilling in a plain immediately in front of the
+town. The inhabitants had turned out, men and
+women, to witness the instruction of the troops.
+The white dresses of the ladies, contrasting with
+the blue uniforms, red caps, and the many-coloured
+dresses of the inhabitants, formed a bright and
+vivid picture. It was a glorious day. The sun
+poured down its rays with a force much more
+suggestive of July than January. The drill was
+just over as we neared the town. We rode into
+Sileh at the head of the regiment, the band,
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_233' name='Page_233' href='#Page_233'>233</a></span>
+which consisted of about twenty musicians, performing
+a wild and discordant march. Halting
+at the house of the Caimacan, I dismounted and
+proceeded to pay him a visit. He was in the
+audience-chamber, surrounded by clerks, who were
+on their knees, and submitting different documents
+for his approval.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The great man himself was squatted on a divan;
+the members of the town council were by his
+side. The Cadi, whose head was enveloped in a
+gigantic yellow turban, was engaged in smoking
+a long chibouk. A crowd of men were in the
+anteroom, some with petitions in their hands,
+others apparently prisoners, judging by the guards
+who stood beside them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was evidently a busy day. The Caimacan,
+not taking any notice of my arrival, continued
+attaching his seal to the different papers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At last he stopped, and, turning to me, salaamed
+and apologized for his apparent rudeness. It
+appeared that the half battalion which I had seen
+drilling was to march the following morning for
+Constantinople, <i>viâ</i> Samsoun. The Caimacan was
+engaged in making arrangements for its departure.
+Carriers would have to be sent forward
+to the different villages between Sileh
+Zela and Samsoun, to apprise the local authorities
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_234' name='Page_234' href='#Page_234'>234</a></span>
+of the approaching arrival of the troops. The
+chief difficulty which the Caimacan experienced
+was the want of money, he presently observed,
+"<i>Asker tchok, lakin para yoke</i>," "We have plenty
+of soldiers, but no paras" (money).
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The colonel of the battalion now entered the
+room, and after having been introduced to me,
+observed that he had heard in the event of
+hostilities England would be neutral.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What! desert her old friend of the Crimea?"
+said the Caimacan, turning to me. And the
+Cadi, grinning in a ghastly manner at the rest of
+the company, remarked that England had many
+paras, and that perhaps she would send some of
+them to the Sultan.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This created a revulsion of feeling in my favour—the
+assembly having been a little annoyed at
+the colonel's statement about the neutrality of
+Great Britain.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well," I said, "you will probably have an
+ally in Austria."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"An ally in Austria!" said the colonel; "no,
+certainly not. There are more Slavs than Magyars
+in the Emperor Francis Joseph's dominions.
+However, Andrassy, a Hungarian, is at
+the head of affairs, and by all accounts he rules
+the emperor. Perhaps Andrassy may prevent
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_235' name='Page_235' href='#Page_235'>235</a></span>
+Austria from allying herself with Russia against
+us."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We shall have to fight our own battles this
+time," continued the colonel; "and, please God,
+we will win."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+An old Imaum, who was seated in a corner,
+now put in a word, and said that if there were a
+war, he too would go at the head of the Imaums.
+I had observed this same propensity for fighting
+amidst other Mohammedan priests. In fact in
+Asia as in Europe the most bellicose members of
+society are often those gentlemen whose profession
+is that of peace.<a name='FA_15' id='FA_15' href='#FN_15' class='fnanchor'>[15]</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We shall have Yakoob Khan of Kashgar with
+us," observed the Caimacan.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No we shall not," replied the colonel; "the
+Russians have stirred up a quarrel between
+Yakoob and the Chinese, so as to prevent him
+giving us any assistance."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Will any other Mohammedan states help
+you?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, all of them will fight for Islam."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_236' name='Page_236' href='#Page_236'>236</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Russia is large," continued the officer, "but
+she will have to divide her forces. She will
+have to be on her guard against the Khivans,
+Bokharians, and Turkomans in Asia, she must
+also protect herself against a rising of the Poles
+in Europe."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Caimacan, now rising from the divan, walked
+with me to a small house in the neighbourhood
+which was reserved for the use of travellers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There were very few Armenians in Sileh, the
+population being made up almost entirely of the
+followers of the Prophet. The ancient city is
+nearly a mile from the present site, and tradition
+tells us that it was built upon the so-called mound
+of Semiramis. I found the castle in a very
+dilapidated state, the wall round it bore signs of
+having been constructed from the ruins of some
+very ancient edifice; here and there were heavy
+blocks of marble and other broken débris which
+had been let into the sides of the enclosure.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+According to the inhabitants, there is a secret
+passage leading from the citadel to a small square
+several hundred yards below the hill; this is
+very likely the case, for although now a third-rate
+town, Sileh was once a city of considerable
+military importance.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Whilst I was looking at the antiquities, Osman
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_237' name='Page_237' href='#Page_237'>237</a></span>
+had been engaged in buying some tea and sugar,
+the supply which I had brought from Constantinople
+being almost entirely exhausted, the tea
+and sugar having gone more rapidly than the other
+provisions. On my remarking this to Radford,
+I was informed that Osman had a sweet tooth,
+and had declared that tea was good for his
+stomach.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I called the Turk to my side.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Osman," I said, "you have nearly finished my
+tea and sugar. What is the meaning of it?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Effendi, I like tea, I like sugar; but what I
+like most of all is to hear my lord's liberality
+praised. Whenever I am drinking tea, and the
+village people see me putting much sugar in my
+glass, they honour me. In this manner they
+honour my lord."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I should like to be honoured in some other
+way for the future," I observed; "and Radford
+tells me that you are always praying instead of
+saddling the baggage-horses."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Quite true, sir," remarked Radford, who
+gathered from my gestures what the conversation
+was about. "Quite true; he has worn off the
+nap of my new great coat a-praying on it.
+He is always on his knees whenever there is some
+work to do."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_238' name='Page_238' href='#Page_238'>238</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Now for the future, Osman," I continued,
+"should I give orders to commence loading the
+animals at daybreak, you must get up two hours
+before sunrise: there will be then ample time for
+your devotions. In the meantime, when you
+pray, you are to kneel on your own jacket, and
+not on Radford's."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Is my brother angry?" said the Turk, pointing
+to his fellow-servant.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, I will not offend him any more."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And shaking hands with the Englishman,
+Osman manifested his friendship by borrowing
+a little tobacco.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On leaving Sileh Zela we rode by numerous
+gardens, planted with all kinds of fruit-trees, and
+enclosed by high walls built for the most part of
+dried mud. The road then continued through a
+series of vast circular basins, each from six to seven
+miles in diameter, and similar to the one which
+surrounded the town. The walls of these basins
+were formed of many coloured sand-hills. The
+plains below were sowed with every kind of grain.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We passed Tartars on their way to Sileh
+Zela, the women walking along the road, and the
+lazy husbands on horseback, riding in front of
+their wives.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_239' name='Page_239' href='#Page_239'>239</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Turkoman and Circassian villages abound
+throughout this district. The inhabitants were
+eager to hear about the war. When the Russians
+drove the Circassians from the Caucasus, the Sultan
+gave the exiles land in Anatolia. The wild
+mountaineers thirst for the opportunity of revenging
+themselves upon the Muscovites.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We left the corn-growing country behind us,
+and emerged upon a plain thickly planted with
+tobacco. On one side of the track, the mountains
+were covered with vines, on the other were
+many-coloured sand-hills.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Presently a wonderful phenomenon presented
+itself to us. A thick, black cloud, which all the
+morning had hung above a mountain-top, burst
+over our heads, and then being gradually wafted onward,
+it poured down its waters on the sand-hills.
+The sun, which was shining brightly, formed a
+magnificent rainbow—the glorious orb joined
+earth to sky, its matchless colouring lit up the
+whole of the firmament.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The waters dashed down the sides of the hills.
+The torrent bore with it a million particles of
+coloured sand. In a moment the rivulets at our
+feet ran white, red, and then crimson. The
+thunder roared in the distance. A flash of
+lightning streaked the horizon with gold.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_240' name='Page_240' href='#Page_240'>240</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sun was setting ere we reached our halting-place,
+and as we rode up the main street of the
+village of Bazar, our horses had to wade through
+about three feet of water—the result of the recent
+storm. I obtained quarters for the night in a
+small, but clean wooden house belonging to a
+Turkish gentleman. He was formerly an officer
+in the army, and had been employed at Kars
+during the siege.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Pacha Williams proved himself to be a great
+man," observed my host. "He was always busy,
+and not like other Pachas, who spend their lives
+in the harem. He went out at all hours of the
+night to inspect the fortifications. There was
+another Englishman with him—a young man of
+fair complexion, but with a heart like a lion."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Teesdale?" I observed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, that was his name. The hearts of our
+poor Osmanlis were cheered when they saw this
+young Englishman sharing all their privations,
+never grumbling, and always cheerful. If the
+war breaks out again, God grant that you may
+send us many more such officers! Is Pacha
+Williams still alive?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Is he a very great man in your country?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_241' name='Page_241' href='#Page_241'>241</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You English are a wonderful nation," continued
+my host. "You reward the Pachas who
+are brave and skilful. In our country if a captain
+has a relation in the harem of the grand vizier,
+the officer is sure to rise to high command; but
+with you a man must have merit to succeed."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_242' name='Page_242' href='#Page_242'>242</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER XXII.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+Tokat—The Caimacan of the town—The battalion is to march
+to Samsoun—A naturalized Englishman—The road from
+Tokat to Sivas—The population of Tokat—The rich inhabitants
+bribe the gendarmes—The want of funds—The
+officials' salaries in arrears—Armenian schools in Tokat—The
+Greeks; not much reliance to be placed upon them—Khiva—Tashkent—Samarcand—Mussulmans
+in India—The
+Black Sea and the Russian fleet—Old soldiers in
+Tokat—The Armenians and Greeks to be supplied with
+fire-arms—Good governors—Osman Bey—A Circassian on
+Russian atrocities—A statement by the Russian authorities—Seven
+hundred families near Labinsky—Men, women,
+and children at the breast butchered—English sympathizers
+with Russia—The Russians sow the seeds of dissension
+amongst the Circassians—Yonn Bek—Many gold imperials
+offered to him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is only a few hours' march from Bazar to
+Tokat, the track running parallel to the river of
+the same name. There are many villages by the
+side of the stream. The valley widens, and then
+narrows again as we proceed towards the town.
+Tokat at last lies before us. It is a long,
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_243' name='Page_243' href='#Page_243'>243</a></span>
+straggling city, and on the left bank of the
+river.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We were met by a Zaptieh. He conducted me
+to a house set apart for travellers. Shortly afterwards
+I received a visit from the Caimacan (governor).
+This official was an active, bustling little
+man, and much more energetic than any of the
+governors I had previously met.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+An order had arrived for him to send 1000 men
+immediately to Samsoun. The battalion would
+march the following morning at daybreak. He
+proposed that I should go and see the start.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+An engineer now called, a Pole by birth, but a
+naturalized Englishman. He was engaged in
+making a road from Tokat to Sivas; he had been
+in Tokat five years, and the work was not half
+completed. Indeed, judging by the system
+adopted for the construction of public works in
+Anatolia, it will be a wonder if the road is ever
+finished.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+According to the engineer, Tokat has a population
+of 25,000 inhabitants. Of these there are
+8000 men who should each work four days a year
+at the construction of the road.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is a pitiable sight," continued the Pole.
+"The Zaptiehs are ordered to bring the people. A
+rich inhabitant bribes the gendarmes; they leave
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_244' name='Page_244' href='#Page_244'>244</a></span>
+him and seize some impecunious individual. The
+latter is brought to me, and I tell the fellow to
+commence digging. The man digs so long as I am
+in sight, but the moment my back is turned, down
+goes the shovel, and he lights a cigarette. The
+result is that I have been here five years, and only
+five miles of road are finished."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The engineer complained of the want of funds
+in the public chest. His pay was only 10<i>l.</i> per
+month, and it was never paid punctually. Meantime,
+the authorities had discharged several
+engineers in their employ, on the ground that
+every piastre in the treasury was required for
+the maintenance of the troops.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There were several Armenian schools in Tokat,
+and the Turks and Christians got on very well
+together. However, the Caimacan was of opinion
+that not much reliance could be placed upon the
+Greeks, i. e. in the event of a war between Turkey
+and Russia.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"They are very cunning," remarked the governor.
+"They will not declare themselves at
+once, but will wait a little, and hang back to see
+which side is the strongest. They still dream of
+the old Greek Empire, and think that some day
+Constantinople will be a Greek capital. This is
+not very likely to happen," he continued. "If
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_245' name='Page_245' href='#Page_245'>245</a></span>
+Russia were to conquer us, and to take Constantinople,
+she would not be willing to hand it over to
+the Greeks. What Russia takes she keeps. Look
+at the Caucasus. Look at the Crimea. Look at
+Khiva, Tashkent, and Samarcand. Some day she
+will try and conquer India, and what shall you do
+then?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Probably take our Indian troops, and, joining
+with the Afghans, and inhabitants of Kashgar,
+drive Russia out of Central Asia," I remarked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"That is easier said than done," said the governor.
+"But, talking of the natives of India, is it
+true, as I have read in our newspapers, that
+many Mussulmans in India have petitioned your
+Queen to help the Sultan?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," I replied, "I believe so."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Then why does she not oblige them? Your
+interests are bound up with our interests. We do
+not wish to lose Constantinople. It would be our
+death-blow. It would be your death-blow if
+the Black Sea belonged solely to Russia, for her
+ships could remain there in perfect safety, and,
+running out at any moment, might attack your
+commerce in the Mediterranean."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There are a great many old soldiers in Tokat,"
+observed the engineer, "men who fought in the
+Crimea. They have asked me if there is any
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_246' name='Page_246' href='#Page_246'>246</a></span>
+chance of England joining Turkey, and are
+longing to serve, with English pay and English
+rations."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The men who leave to-morrow go without any
+pay," said the Caimacan, "but they march cheerfully.
+We shall have to fight it out to the end," he
+continued; "if Russia does not destroy Turkey,
+Turkey must destroy Russia! I will sell my
+watch and everything I have in the world to raise
+funds for the war. We must all do the same."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Whilst we were conversing an order arrived for
+the Caimacan to supply all the Armenians and
+Greeks in Tokat with firearms, and have them
+instructed in drill.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I must go," he observed, and, rising from the
+divan, he left me alone with the engineer.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He is a most energetic man," said the Pole,
+pointing to the retreating figure of the Caimacan.
+"If Turkey had more governors like him, she
+would not be reduced to her present straits. The
+great mistake in this country is the continual
+change of Caimacans. When we have a good
+governor, we never keep him for more than six
+months; the present man has been here about that
+time, he does not rob the people, and is thoroughly
+honest: we shall probably soon lose him."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Several of the principal persons in the town
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_247' name='Page_247' href='#Page_247'>247</a></span>
+now came to call upon me; amongst others, a
+certain Osman Bey, a Circassian, and the chief of
+a large band which had emigrated from the Caucasus
+a few years previous. He was dressed in
+the Circassian style, with a sheep-skin coat,
+tightly buckled round his waist, embroidered
+leather trousers and high boots; a black Astrakhan
+cap surmounted his bronzed features. He was a
+fine tall fellow, and immensely popular with the
+inhabitants of Tokat.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After conversing for a little while about my journey,
+and the state of the roads between Tokat and
+Erzeroum, he proposed that I should accompany
+him to his house, drink tea there, and be introduced
+to his relatives. The engineer came with us.
+After walking through some lanes, where the mud
+reached considerably above my ankles, we arrived
+before a square-built, whitewashed house. A
+solid wooden door, absolutely possessing a knocker—an
+article of luxury not known in Tokat, save
+to the richer inhabitants, gave admission to a
+small courtyard. This, in its turn, led to the
+apartments reserved for Osman Bey and the
+members of his family.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He had sent a servant on before, to say that he
+was on his way. About fifteen Circassian gentlemen
+were seated around the room.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_248' name='Page_248' href='#Page_248'>248</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We Circassians have heard a great deal of
+your nation," said Osman Bey, as he motioned to
+me to take a seat. "We once thought that England
+was going to help us to drive the Russians out of
+our country. However, you did not come; they
+outnumbered us, and they had artillery opposed
+to our flint guns. What could we do? We resisted
+as long as possible, and then, sooner than
+be slaves, came here."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"If there is a war, shall you all go to the front?"
+I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, every able-bodied man amongst us. We
+do not pay any taxes to the Sultan; he gave us
+our land, and we owe him a debt of gratitude.
+Not only that," continued the speaker, and at the
+same time drawing a long, keen knife from his
+sash, and flipping his nail against the blade, "but
+we shall have an opportunity of cutting a few
+Muscovite throats!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I hope you will not kill the women and children!"
+I observed. "Nobody cares about the
+men; but in Europe we have a horror of people
+who massacre women and children."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We shall do as the Russians do, and as they
+have always done," observed my host grimly.
+"They have killed our old men, have cut to
+pieces pregnant women, and have tossed the children
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_249' name='Page_249' href='#Page_249'>249</a></span>
+on the bayonets, whilst the soldiers have
+satisfied their lust upon our wives, and burnt
+them to death afterwards!<a name='FA_16' id='FA_16' href='#FN_16' class='fnanchor'>[16]</a> Well, if they do the
+same thing now, we shall follow the example
+set us, and shall continue doing so, until England
+or some other power interferes to save our
+countrymen from the devilish tyranny of these
+Muscovite butchers. Let me give you one instance
+of their cruelty. A few years ago the Russian
+authorities informed the Circassians that whoever
+wished might leave the Imperial dominions and go
+elsewhere. This was probably done to discover
+what natives were well disposed or otherwise to the
+Russian rule. There was no real intention on the
+part of the Government to allow any of its subjects
+to pass the frontier. Seven hundred families
+belonging to some villages near the town of
+Labinsky, thought that it was a <i>bonâ fide</i> permission.
+Leaving their district, they started for the
+Turkish frontier. A short time afterwards they
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_250' name='Page_250' href='#Page_250'>250</a></span>
+were surrounded by Russian troops, cavalry and
+artillery, and ordered to return. The fugitives
+said that they had permission to leave Russia.
+The officer in command insisted that they
+should at once retrace their steps. The command
+was not immediately obeyed, the troops
+fired at the villagers, and then charged them
+with the bayonet; only thirteen Mohammedans
+survived to tell the tale. All the rest,
+men, women, and children at the breast, were cut
+to pieces."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Are these assertions really true?" I said to
+another Circassian.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We know it, to our cost," he replied. "This
+is only one instance which Osman Bey has
+just given you, and which you have written down
+in your note-book; but there are many more
+equally horrible. The Russians have made a hell
+of our beautiful country. They are worse than
+the fiend himself."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Do your country-people like the Russians?"
+said Osman Bey.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Some do," I replied; "but they do not believe
+in these horrible cruelties which you have been
+just relating to me."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, then, tell them to travel through our
+country—that is, if the Russians will let them—to
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_251' name='Page_251' href='#Page_251'>251</a></span>
+go to our villages and talk to the country people;
+but not in the presence of Russians, as the poor
+sufferers would be afraid to speak, knowing well
+the fate which would await them when their questioners
+had departed. Let any of the people of
+England, who now sympathize with Russia, do
+this, and then let them form an opinion about the
+merits of the case."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"When you return to your own country will
+you publish what I have said to you?" said Osman
+Bey.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," I said, "every line. Listen to what I
+have written, so that there may be no error."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And I translated to him my notes, the engineer
+aiding me in the task.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Are all your countrymen of one mind in their
+hatred of the Russians?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Unfortunately, no," said Osman Bey. "The
+authorities have been clever enough to sow the
+seeds of dissension amongst our ranks. For example,
+they will often give the post of 'stanishna'
+(a local authority) in the different villages to a
+Circassian of a low degree. This gives him authority
+over our nobles. Ill-feeling is thus created
+between the two classes; it is utilized by the
+Russians."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"One of our number is doing his best to avenge
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_252' name='Page_252' href='#Page_252'>252</a></span>
+himself on the Muscovites," said another of the
+party, a good-looking young fellow, apparently
+about twenty years old, and Osman Bey's nephew.
+"His name is Yonn Bek; he has taken up his
+abode in the Farsa Shaguash mountain near Ekaterinograd,
+and kills the Russians whenever he can
+meet them. He has been pursued; but he has
+depôts in the mountain where he keeps provisions,
+and the Russians have never been able to trace
+him to his lair. The authorities have offered Yonn
+Bek a great many gold imperials if he would leave
+the country, as the man has done so much mischief
+there; but Yonn declines, and says that if the Russians
+have not been able to capture him in eight
+years, and he has been able to do them so much
+damage, what will not happen to the foe when the
+war breaks out and he is joined by other men
+like himself?"
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_253' name='Page_253' href='#Page_253'>253</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+The servant of the house—The Onbashee—Five piastres—Osman
+detected—The guilty man—Vankovitch's remarks—The
+sentence—May I put Osman in prison?—The
+barracks—Two old Khans—The women weeping—Immense
+enthusiasm—Numbers of volunteers—Parading for
+the march—Men crying—We shall eat the Russians—The
+Sergeant—The Major of the battalion—The Dervish—A
+Circassian—The Imaum of the regiment—The Muleteer—Baggage
+animals required for the regiment—A bitter
+cry—The women's wail—The old Major—The soldier's
+hymn—The standard of the battalion—Go in safety—God
+be with you!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The following morning the servant of the house in
+which I was lodging entered the room and observed
+that a Zaptieh corporal, or Onbashee, who had
+escorted us into the town on the day of my arrival,
+wished to see me.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Tell him to come in," I said. In a few
+minutes the Onbashee opened the door; approaching
+me, he took from his waistcoat five
+piastres, and placed them in the palm of his hand.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What is this for?" I inquired.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_254' name='Page_254' href='#Page_254'>254</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Osman!" answered the Onbashee, with a
+sigh.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Osman! What has he been doing?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Osman gave them to me, Effendi; but you
+said that he was to give me half a medjidi—he
+has kept the difference for himself!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It now flashed across my mind that the previous
+evening I had desired Osman to give the corporal
+half a medjidi as a baksheesh, and that I had told
+him to do so in the presence of the servant of the
+house. The latter had informed the Onbashee.
+Osman, who wished to appropriate to himself the
+difference between five piastres and the larger coin,
+was thus detected.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I sent for the culprit. He was aware that his
+knavery had been discovered. Instead of coming
+to me with his usual assertion that he was the
+most industrious man in the world, he stood in the
+corner of the room, an object of derision to the
+Onbashee, who was regretting the loss of his half
+medjidi, and to the servant of the house, who had
+been the means of disclosing Osman's dishonesty.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Addressing the guilty man, I asked him why he
+had not given the Zaptieh the half medjidi, and
+added that the previous evening, when he had told
+me of the expenses of the day, he had charged me
+with that sum.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_255' name='Page_255' href='#Page_255'>255</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Osman had hardly anything to say for himself.
+Presently he stammered out something about his
+only having five piastres in his pocket.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"That is a lie, Effendi!" here interrupted the
+Onbashee. "He had many coins in his hand when
+he gave me the five piastres."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I at once made up my mind to get rid of
+Osman. Vankovitch's remarks about the Turk's
+dishonesty also recurred to my memory. Osman
+was undoubtedly a rogue; I determined to procure
+another servant.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Osman," I said, "you have robbed a
+Mohammedan, a follower of Islam, and one of your
+own religion. If you had confined yourself to
+robbing me, I could have understood it, for you
+might have reasoned to yourself as follows: 'The
+Effendi is a giaour, and there is gold in his purse.'
+But to rob a brother Mohammedan, and a poor man;
+to rob him of the pittance which I had given him,—this
+I can only understand by the assumption that
+you are a greater scoundrel than I thought you
+were! You are no longer my servant. You
+darken the threshold no longer!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I am innocent, Effendi!" cried Osman.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, prove your innocence, and I will say no
+more about the matter."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Effendi, the Onbashee is a liar!"
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_256' name='Page_256' href='#Page_256'>256</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Very likely, but then the servant must be a
+liar as well, and he saw you give the five piastres
+to the corporal. Now what interest has the
+servant in telling a lie about the matter?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This was too much for the delinquent; lowering
+his eyes, he walked out of the room, through a
+long row of servants, who had come from the
+neighbouring houses to hear me administer justice.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sentence appeared to give great satisfaction
+to the Onbashee.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"May I put Osman in prison?" he eagerly inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I have no authority on such matters," I
+replied.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, Effendi, but the Caimacan likes you, and
+if you asked him to do so, he would put Osman in
+prison. Just a day or so, Effendi! Please do!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why do you want to put him in gaol?" I
+asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Because, if he is once shut up, we will not let
+him out till he has returned me the difference
+between your present and the five piastres."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No," I said; "here is the difference," at the
+same time giving him a small sum of money.
+"But now go and inquire in the town for a man
+who wants a situation, as I want a servant
+immediately."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_257' name='Page_257' href='#Page_257'>257</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Just then a sergeant entered the room. He
+brought word from the Caimacan that he was
+waiting for me, and that the battalion would leave
+Tokat in about half an hour.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I at once rode to the barracks. They consisted
+of two old Khans, which surrounded a courtyard,
+the Khans being used as barracks when there were
+troops in Tokat, and at other times of the year
+as lodgings for wayfarers. The streets leading to
+the Khans were lined with women, muffled up in
+long white sheets, and weeping piteously. The
+battalion was drawn up in two ranks inside the
+courtyard. The men were standing at ease, and
+engaged in talking to their numerous friends
+and relatives. Immense enthusiasm prevailed
+amidst the bystanders. Numbers of volunteers
+were offering their services.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Look at these men, sir," observed Radford,
+who was riding behind me; "they do not look as
+if they liked going as soldiers: bless my heart
+alive, if they ain't a-crying!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I glanced in the direction he was pointing, and
+saw thirty or forty men with most woe-begone
+faces, and some of them in tears.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why are you crying?" I said to one of their
+party. "Are you afraid of being killed?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, Effendi, we want to go with our brothers
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_258' name='Page_258' href='#Page_258'>258</a></span>
+in the battalion and to fight by their side; but
+the major will not take us, he says that his
+battalion is complete. Do ask him to let us
+accompany him! Our hearts are full of sorrow
+at being left behind."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A captain in the regiment, a short, podgy-looking
+man, with very fat cheeks, now came to
+them, and tried to console the volunteers by saying
+that their turn would come soon, and that
+they should go with the next battalion.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was a curious spectacle: the soldiers dressed
+in a neat dark blue serge uniform, and with their
+feet in sandals, surrounded by little knots of
+relatives clad in every kind of attire that can well
+be imagined; fathers embracing sons, brothers
+rubbing cheeks with brothers, and the sergeant
+and corporals vainly endeavouring to get their
+men into some sort of order; the fat captain in
+the background engaged in trying to console the
+rejected volunteers; and the younger portion of
+the crowd looking inquisitively at the new Martini-Peabody
+rifles which had only arrived from
+Samsoun the previous evening. Some of the
+soldiery were showing how quick their rifles could
+be loaded and fired. The rapidity of the system
+created great astonishment amidst the crowd.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The giaours come from the country where
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_259' name='Page_259' href='#Page_259'>259</a></span>
+these guns are made," said a bystander, pointing
+to Radford and myself.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The giaours have more brain than we have,"
+said another.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"If they help us, we shall eat the Russians!"
+exclaimed a third. We became the object of
+still more curiosity when a sergeant, coming to
+me, said that the Caimacan was in the major's
+room, drinking coffee, and hoped that I would
+join him there.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He is going to drink coffee with the Governor—he
+is a great man!" said one of the bystanders.
+Some of the volunteers, rushing up, entreated
+me to intercede with the Caimacan, and perhaps
+he could induce the major of the battalion to take
+them with him to the war.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The major, and several other officers were
+squatted on a carpet in a small and rather dirty
+room overlooking the courtyard. The Caimacan
+was seated on a chair, a dervish sat by his side.
+The latter individual was a portly-looking man,
+wrapped up in a roll of brown cloth, and with a
+gigantic sugar-loaf hat on his head. The hat was
+made of grey cloth, and would have made the fortune
+of the leader of a nigger band. Several more
+officers now came into the room, amongst others
+the fat captain. They each in turn bent before
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_260' name='Page_260' href='#Page_260'>260</a></span>
+the dervish, who placed his hands above their
+heads, and pronounced some sort of a blessing.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A Circassian entered the building. He presently
+informed us that five thousand of his
+nation, who resided in the neighbourhood of
+Tokat, had expressed a wish to go to the seat of
+war, and to bring with them their own horses and
+arms.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+By this time the sergeants had succeeded in
+arranging their men in the ranks, and the major
+going downstairs, followed by the Imaum or chaplain
+of the regiment, the latter addressed the
+battalion. The Imaum was attired in a lieutenant's
+uniform, but with a green turban round
+the fez, as a distinctive mark of his profession.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Chaplain's discourse was not a long one. It
+was listened to with great attention by the populace.
+When he had finished the ranks were again
+broken by a crowd of eager, excited Mussulmans,
+who rushed up to embrace their friends.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As I was descending the steps, my attention was
+called to a man who was seated on the stair. He
+was sobbing like a child; at the same time striking
+his chest with the palms of his hands.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What is the matter?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On his looking up, I recognized the muleteer
+whom I had hired to bring my baggage from
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_261' name='Page_261' href='#Page_261'>261</a></span>
+Sileh Zela to Tokat. The man on seeing me
+sprang to his feet, then throwing himself on the
+ground, he began to embrace my legs, at the same
+time kissing my boots.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It appeared that several baggage animals were
+required for the battalion which was about to
+march. The Zaptiehs of Tokat had pressed the
+muleteer into their service, and had taken his
+mules.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Do speak for me, Effendi!" he said. "They
+will take me to Kars. I shall be a ruined man.
+And my wife expects me home—she is in a
+delicate state of health; I shall shortly be a
+father."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is useless," said the Caimacan, who overheard
+his prayers. "We must have baggage
+animals," he continued; "you will not be taken
+to Kars, only to Samsoun; you will be paid for
+the hire of your animals. Dry your eyes, and do
+not block up the steps."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is a great pity, and I am very sorry for
+these poor fellows," observed the Caimacan, turning
+to me; "but what can we do? It is war time,
+or very soon will be so: some of us must suffer."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Listen to those poor women there," he continued,
+as we rode through the gate, preceded by
+the brass band of the regiment playing a melancholy
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_262' name='Page_262' href='#Page_262'>262</a></span>
+march. A deep wail could be heard even
+above the noise of the instruments. The wives,
+mothers, and other female relatives of the soldiers,
+had not been permitted to enter the barracks;
+but from an early hour they had taken up a
+position along the streets. The bitter cry, which
+was joined in by hundreds of voices, announced
+to the people in the very outskirts of the town
+that the battalion was on the march.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Presently the band ceased playing; and the
+old major, his long white beard streaming in the
+wind, began singing the words: "God is great.
+There is but one God, the God, and there is but
+one Prophet, the Prophet, and he is the Prophet
+of God."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The soldiers took up the strain, ten thousand
+bystanders joined in the verse—it even silenced
+the women's wail—and resounded along the
+banks of the river. Here taken up by some
+people on the ruined citadel, the words were
+re-echoed back to us; there wafted by the breeze
+to an adjacent hamlet, the peasantry swelled the
+chorus. The standard of the battalion, with the
+crescent embroidered on a green border, was
+raised high in the air, and several of the crowd,
+rushing up to the major, implored him to take
+them in his ranks.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_263' name='Page_263' href='#Page_263'>263</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was a striking scene—these weeping women
+in their shroud-like dresses; the many-coloured
+garments of the men; the excited soldiery—the
+still more excited major; and the immense religious
+enthusiasm.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Snow-capped mountains barred the way before
+us, and the river, its banks set fast with ice and
+hoar-frost, glittered in the distance, and reflected
+the rays of a midday sun.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Large stacks of wood had been piled up near
+the stream. The timber had been cut in the
+forests above the town, and been floated down
+the river to Tokat. It is chiefly used for smelting
+copper, the Government having some smelting
+works in the neighbourhood. According to
+my informant, they were established thirty years
+ago by a German; after his decease they had
+been bought by the Turkish authorities.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Caimacan thought that he had accompanied
+the battalion far enough. Drawing a
+little on one side, we let the soldiers pass us.
+The standard-bearer waved his flag, the old
+major saluted by lowering the point of his sword
+as he rode past, and with the words, "Go in
+safety, God be with you. We shall meet in Erzeroum,"
+we parted.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_264' name='Page_264' href='#Page_264'>264</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+Osman Bey—A Circassian feud—Will there be a rising in the
+Caucasus?—If England were to help us—A wonderful servant—Mohammed—His
+Captain—An Armenian doctor—Business
+is flat—The Christian population to be armed—Visitors
+asking favours—Your reward will be in heaven—A
+subscription—Promotion through favouritism—A sad
+story—A cruel father—A servant arrested for debt—Failure
+of justice.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Soon afterwards I met Osman Bey, my acquaintance
+of the previous day. He was on the
+point of leaving for a Circassian hamlet in the
+neighbourhood. It appeared that a feud had
+arisen between the people of this village and
+another one in its vicinity; the Bey was going
+there to calm, if possible, the angry feelings of
+the inhabitants.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He remarked that in the event of war breaking
+out between Turkey and Russia he should go to
+the Caucasus.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_265' name='Page_265' href='#Page_265'>265</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Will there be a great rising in that country?"
+I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is very doubtful," was the answer; "our
+people have risen several times;<a name='FA_17' id='FA_17' href='#FN_17' class='fnanchor'>[17]</a> no foreign power
+has assisted us, and the result is that we have
+been decimated by our enemy. My countrymen
+are afraid of doing anything, unless they
+feel certain that they will be aided in their
+attempt. If England were to help us," he continued,
+"and could only capture one Russian
+port on the Black Sea, the Circassians would
+have confidence, and there would be a rising
+throughout the length and breadth of our
+land."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On returning to my house I found the Zaptieh
+who had been defrauded by my late servant. He
+was awaiting me with a candidate for Osman's
+place.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Effendi, I have brought you a wonderful
+fellow," said the gendarme; "if you send him
+with a message, he will fly; he will guard your
+purse more carefully than his own."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It appeared that the wonderful man's name was
+Mohammed; he was a redif soldier. His battalion
+would march in the course of a week or so
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_266' name='Page_266' href='#Page_266'>266</a></span>
+to Erzeroum. To avoid going with the troops he
+proposed that he should engage himself as my
+servant until we reached that town, and then he
+could join his battalion.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But will your commanding officer give you
+leave to accompany me?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"If the Effendi asks him," interrupted the
+Zaptieh.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mohammed was apparently not above twenty-five
+years of age. He had a pleasant, frank
+expression, and I determined to engage him,
+that is, if I could obtain the sanction of his
+captain.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I now went to see this officer. He at once
+agreed to the proposal; that is, if I would pledge
+myself to give up Mohammed at Erzeroum.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How can I pledge myself?" I remarked, "he
+may run away on the road."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"That is true," said the officer; "but he is a
+straightforward fellow—he will not do so. If I
+had the power, I would let you take him as a
+servant for all the time that you remain in the
+country; but I have no authority to do this, I
+am merely a captain."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The matter was settled. Returning to my house,
+I informed the man of his officer's consent.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mohammed was to have the same wages as Osman,
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_267' name='Page_267' href='#Page_267'>267</a></span>
+and as he had a horse of his own, which he
+wished to take to Erzeroum, I was to pay for the
+forage of the animal, and could make use of him
+for the baggage. This would be very useful;
+hitherto I had been obliged to hire a horse, owing
+to my loss of Obadiah. Up to this time I had been
+travelling on the postal track. It was possible
+to find horses. After leaving Sivas, the next
+town I should reach, there would be no more
+postal-stations; I should then have to trust to my
+being able to hire animals from the peasantry, or
+be obliged to purchase another horse.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I have a wife," said Mohammed; "will my
+lord give me a little money?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How much do you want?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Two liras."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I wonder if he will bolt with the money, like
+the Tartar I engaged last winter in Orenburg."
+This idea at once occurred to my mind. On
+second thoughts, I remembered that he was
+well known to the Zaptieh, and to many of the
+other inhabitants of Tokat; so I acceded to his
+request.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+An Armenian doctor called to see me. He
+had been educated in the States, and spoke
+English with a most unmistakable Yankee drawl.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How is business here?" I inquired.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_268' name='Page_268' href='#Page_268'>268</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Very flat," said the medical gentleman; "the
+people do not put much faith in doctors, that is,
+until they are really ill, and then we have a busy
+time of it. They pill themselves," he continued,
+"and go in for herbs and old women's remedies;
+they get them cheap, and grudge the money which
+they must pay to a regular practitioner."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You do not look very well," said the doctor.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Thank you, there is not much the matter," I
+replied. The fact was that I had a splitting headache,
+owing to the charcoal pan or mungo which
+warmed the apartment. The gas from the charcoal
+being lighter than the air, fills the upper part of the
+room. The Turks and Armenians generally squat
+on the floor. They do not feel the effects of the
+fumes so much as a person who is seated on the
+divan.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Another Armenian now paid me a visit. He
+was the telegraph inspector in Tokat, and he informed
+us that orders had just been sent from
+Constantinople to buy up all the available horses
+in this neighbourhood.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Things look warlike," he continued, "and the
+doctor," pointing to his compatriot, "will have
+plenty of practice before long. The whole Christian
+population is to be armed. It is clear that
+the Government has not much faith in the Conference,
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_269' name='Page_269' href='#Page_269'>269</a></span>
+and is doing its best to prepare for
+war."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Armenians in Tokat complained of the slack
+way in which justice was administered throughout
+that district. According to the doctor, if a man
+committed a crime, and could get away for a year
+or two and then return to his home, he would not
+be pursued by the authorities; that is, unless the
+aggrieved parties made a formal complaint.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," said another visitor, "three months ago
+fifty-four malefactors escaped from the prison.
+Forty of them shortly afterwards surrendered; the
+rest made their way to the mountains. Their
+ringleader, who is a murderer, has been recently
+seen in Tokat: no one has cared to arrest him."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Four young Turks entered the room; the
+eldest could not have been more than three-and-twenty.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What do you want?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We do not wish to go to the war," replied one
+of them, who took upon himself to be spokesman
+for the party.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why not?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Because we are married men and have children."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I cannot help you."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, Effendi, you can; you might speak to
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_270' name='Page_270' href='#Page_270'>270</a></span>
+the Caimacan, and he could free us from military
+service."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"His duty is to send you to the front," observed
+the doctor.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, but he evidently likes the Frank, for we
+saw them riding together, and if the Effendi would
+only ask him, he could not be so inhospitable as
+to decline."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was a little annoyed at this remark, and
+observed,—
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I certainly shall not ask for anything of the
+kind. Other people who have wives and children
+are obliged to go, then why not you?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But they did not love their wives so much as
+we love ours," persisted the man.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Caimacan now called. Upon his arrival
+the four visitors, after grovelling almost in the
+dust before him, took their departure.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What did they want?" said the Governor.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I told him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is very unpatriotic of them," he observed.
+"The cunning little dogs, to ask you to intercede
+on their behalf! But they shall all go with the
+next battalion!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was evidently destined to have a succession of
+visitors on that afternoon, for no sooner had the
+Caimacan gone than another official arrived. He
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_271' name='Page_271' href='#Page_271'>271</a></span>
+at once commenced a conversation by saying that
+he had been employed in collecting the redif
+soldiery from the different villages in the neighbourhood,
+and had also started a subscription
+amongst the wealthier inhabitants to provide the
+men with warm shirts.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You have acted very kindly, and doubtless
+with the best motives," I remarked. "Your
+reward will be in heaven."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," said the man, who did not seem quite
+to relish the idea of his reward being so indefinitely
+postponed; "but the Effendi is going to
+Sivas?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He will see the Pacha there."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Very likely."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Then will he tell the Pacha of my great merits,
+and ask him to give me some higher employment?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"If it pleases Allah, you will receive some
+higher post," I piously observed. "Our destinies
+are in his hand."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," said the man, "so they are. But for all
+that, I wish that you would speak to the Pacha for
+me."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+From the two examples I have here cited, it will
+readily be seen that a system of promotion through
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_272' name='Page_272' href='#Page_272'>272</a></span>
+favouritism is very deeply rooted amidst the Turks.
+I had been seen riding with the Caimacan. It
+was thought that I might see the Pacha at Sivas—this
+was quite sufficient to induce some of the
+inhabitants of Tokat to believe that any request
+I might make to the Pacha or Caimacan would
+necessarily be granted.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It was fortunate," here remarked the engineer,
+"that you told Osman to give the baksheesh to a
+Corporal, and that a Turkish servant heard you
+give the order. If the fellow had been a Christian,
+the servant would never have taken the
+trouble to mention it to him. But the fact of the
+Corporal being a co-religionist was too much for
+the servant. It has enabled you to detect the
+fraud."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"This is one of the worst features of the country,"
+he continued. "The Turks will not do anything
+to aid a Christian at the expense of a Mohammedan,
+even if the Mohammedan is most clearly in the
+wrong. And it is much the same with the Christians
+in respect to their co-religionists. The result
+is that the Armenians and Turks do not pull well
+together. The law, too, is faulty, and requires
+amendment."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Let me give you an example," continued Mr.
+Gasparini, "and one which has come immediately
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_273' name='Page_273' href='#Page_273'>273</a></span>
+under my notice, for it affected my own
+servant. It sounds like a romance, but, alas!
+is too true! My servant's name is Karatel Mermenk
+Ovooloo. He is an Armenian; his mother
+died when he was a child; his father remarried, but
+behaved very badly to his second wife, continually
+ill-treating her, and making his son bring another
+woman to the house. The lad was very fond of
+his stepmother, who was at that time seriously
+ill; at last he refused to bring his father's
+paramour to their home. The father beat him
+severely and apprenticed the lad to his own trade,
+that of a coppersmith. The mother soon afterwards
+died, with an anathema on her lips at her
+husband's paramour. The latter, strange to say,
+died herself three weeks afterwards. In the
+meantime, the father gave the boy three piastres
+a week for his clothes. The lad could not clothe
+himself for that sum, he left his home and went
+into service. The parent succeeded in having the
+boy turned away from several situations, but at
+last I took him. Now, only the other day, the
+father went to the Cadi, and swore that his son
+was in a coppersmith's business with himself,
+and in consequence must pay half the tax on
+his trade. There is no truth whatever in the
+statement, but the father's word has been taken,
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_274' name='Page_274' href='#Page_274'>274</a></span>
+and my servant arrested, and kept in prison for
+three days. The sum is only twenty-six piastres,
+I would gladly pay it myself, but I have no
+money; the government will not give me my
+salary; so here we are at a dead-lock."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_275' name='Page_275' href='#Page_275'>275</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER XXV.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+Mohammed's horse—The Effendi's barley—The road from Tokat
+to Sivas—A very pretty girl—Tchiflik—Complaints made
+against the Circassians—Highly cultivated soil—The
+Tchamlay Bel mountain—A Turk killed—A wonderful
+gun—Yenihan—The Yeldez Ermak—The Kizil Ermak—Sivas—A
+ruined citadel—The importance of Sivas from a
+military point of view—My entry into Sivas—The guard—An
+Italian engineer—Three American missionaries—A
+house pillaged.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The following morning, Mohammed arrived at
+an early hour, bringing with him his horse, a
+wretched brute to look at; he had not a particle
+of flesh on his bones, and was half blind with one
+eye.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"This is my horse, Effendi," said Mohammed
+proudly; "is he not a magnificent animal? My
+having this horse will save the Effendi the expense
+of hiring or buying another one."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I hope that I shall get a baksheesh at Erzeroum,"
+he added.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_276' name='Page_276' href='#Page_276'>276</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Of course," I said; "that is, if the brute
+reaches Erzeroum. But it strikes me that you
+have not been giving him anything to eat
+lately!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, Effendi, I was afraid that if he looked too
+well he would have been taken for the use of the
+troops; but no one will even glance at him as he
+is. He has a wonderful appetite, and will make
+up for lost time; no one will recognize him, after
+he has eaten the Effendi's barley for a day or two;
+he will soon be fat and strong."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The road from Tokat to Sivas is a good one for
+the first few hours. My friend the engineer's
+work had been very fairly done; our horses
+were able to get over the ground at from five
+to six miles an hour. The track led through
+a succession of hills and valleys. In some
+places the engineer had been obliged to cut
+the road for several hundred yards in the solid
+rock.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Presently we passed a small Circassian village.
+Several good-looking women, coming to the road-side,
+offered chickens and geese for sale. One of
+the Circassians was a very pretty girl, and would
+have carried off the palm amidst many European
+belles. Her face was not veiled. There was a
+great deal of expression in her large, dark eyes.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_277' name='Page_277' href='#Page_277'>277</a></span>
+They flashed excitedly as she sought to induce
+me to buy her wares.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I am tired of chicken," I said; "I should like
+a little meat."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There is no meat here," replied the girl. "We
+ourselves live upon bread and eggs: buy some
+eggs."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And running back to a house, she brought
+out about fifty eggs; the price being eightpence
+of our money.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now we came to Tchiflik, an Armenian village.
+Here there were thirty houses; and as six hours
+had sped by since we left Tokat, I determined to
+halt for the night, the more particularly as Mohammed's
+horse showed unmistakable signs of
+fatigue.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Armenian in whose house I stopped, complained
+of his Circassian neighbours. According
+to him, they had hazy ideas as to the difference
+between <i>meum</i> and <i>tuum</i>. Several cows belonging
+to the villagers had recently disappeared. It
+was strongly suspected that some Circassians were
+implicated in the robbery.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The country in the neighbourhood was very
+highly cultivated. The farmers' granaries were
+full of corn. Hundreds of cows and cattle could
+be seen grazing along the side of the road.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_278' name='Page_278' href='#Page_278'>278</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We arrived at the Tchamlay Bel mountain.
+As we were ascending a narrow pass which
+overhung a steep precipice, the guide, a Zaptieh,
+observed that only five days previous a Turk had
+been killed on this very spot. It appeared that
+there was a band of brigands in the neighbourhood.
+Five of them had attacked a party of four
+Turkish merchants, who were returning from
+Sivas with, as it was believed, a considerable
+amount of gold on their persons. Three of the
+Turks ran away, leaving their companion, who
+showed fight, but was shot down; the brigands
+had taken away from him thirty-five liras, besides
+two horses. An hour later, when the news was
+brought to a village, several of the inhabitants
+turned out on horseback to pursue the robbers:
+it was too late, they had made their escape and
+carried off the booty.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Do not be alarmed," said the guide as he
+concluded his story. "I am with you; the
+brigands will be afraid. Look here!" he carefully
+unstrapped a long, single-barrelled flint gun
+from his saddle-bow. The barrel was tied on to
+the stock by a piece of string.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is a wonderful gun," said the guide. "It
+belonged to my grandfather, I once shot a deer
+with it."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_279' name='Page_279' href='#Page_279'>279</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Was the deer far off?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Very far," was the reply. "So far," pointing to
+a rock about 1000 yards from us. It was clear
+that however well the guide might shoot with his
+gun, he was equally good with the long-bow.
+I began to be a little doubtful about the story he
+had just told us of the brigands.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We rested for a while at Yenihan, a large village
+with 200 houses; the population is composed half
+of Armenians and half of Turks. The Caimacan
+had gone to the mountains in search of some
+redif soldiery. He had experienced considerable
+difficulty in inducing these men to leave their
+homes, and join the army in the field.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There was nothing particular to see at Yenihan.
+Sivas was only nine hours distant: I determined
+to make a long march on the following day, and
+give our horses a rest in that city. The track
+was good. Ox-carts—the chief means of transporting
+baggage in this part of Anatolia—have no
+difficulty in travelling along the road to the Yeldez
+Ermak, a rapid stream which is about seventy
+yards wide. It is crossed by a good stone bridge
+on arches. The river, though fordable in the
+winter, would be impassable in the early spring if
+it were not for the bridge. It is a tributary of the
+Kizil Ermak, and meets that stream about twelve
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_280' name='Page_280' href='#Page_280'>280</a></span>
+miles S.E. of Sivas. The district is hilly, but
+is highly cultivated. In about four hours we
+reached the Kizil Ermak, a broad, deep river. It
+is crossed by a stone bridge. A road on the opposite
+bank leads to Divriki.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We did not cross the bridge, but continued on
+to Sivas, which lay before us, with a background
+of rising slopes. A citadel, in a ruined state,
+frowned down upon us from the centre of the
+city.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Sivas, the capital of Armenia Minor, is situated
+at the head of the valley of the Halys of the
+ancients. It is the most important military position
+in this part of Turkey. It commands the
+sole route which descends with the waters upon
+the plateau of Asia Minor. Sivas is the key to
+the Peninsula on the Asiatic side; the Turks
+ought to fortify this place, particularly when they
+are threatened in Asia Minor by the Russians.
+Should the latter succeed in forcing the first line
+of defence, consisting of Kars, Ardahan, and
+Bayazid, and afterwards take possession of Erzeroum,
+there will be no other fortified town between
+themselves and Scutari.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The governor had sent an officer with some
+Zaptiehs as an escort for our party. As we were
+entering the principal street a servant approached
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_281' name='Page_281' href='#Page_281'>281</a></span>
+us with a fine Arab horse, and said that the
+Pacha hoped I would honour him by riding his
+favourite animal to the quarters prepared for my
+accommodation. It appeared that the Bey in
+Angora had telegraphed to the governor of Sivas
+about me, hence the preparations which had been
+made.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I dismounted from my own quadruped, and
+mounted the Pacha's horse. I now found that the
+stirrup-leathers, even when let out to the last hole,
+were much too short, I was sitting with my knees
+nearly up to my chin.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The whole population of Sivas had turned out
+to welcome me to their city. I should have
+liked to have made my entry in as dignified a
+manner as possible. Dignity soon became out
+of the question. The Arab horse, unaccustomed
+to sixteen stone on his back, began to kick.
+To avoid ignominiously coming off, I was compelled
+to take my feet out of the stirrups, and
+ride without these appendages to the saddle.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Luckily the rooms prepared for us were not
+far distant. On arriving in a small square, the
+officers and Zaptiehs halted before a small, but
+clean-looking house, which faced the Pacha's residence.
+On the other sides of the square were
+the prison and the barracks. The guard turned
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_282' name='Page_282' href='#Page_282'>282</a></span>
+out from the last-named building, and presented
+arms as we dismounted. The officer of the escort,
+taking my hand, led me up a staircase to the
+apartment set aside for my accommodation.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Soon after our arrival I was waited upon by an
+Italian engineer, who was employed at Sivas by
+the government. He was the only European in the
+city, which contains 7000 houses; however, there
+were three American missionaries who had been
+settled in Sivas for several years past with the
+object of making proselytes.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Italian was accompanied by an Armenian
+who spoke French. The latter gentleman was
+very indignant with the Pacha, who had shut up
+the shops belonging to the Christians during the
+previous week. It appeared that some of the
+redif soldiers had pillaged a house in the market-place.
+Several hundred more redifs were expected
+to arrive at Sivas; there were hardly any
+regular troops to keep order. The governor had
+taken the precaution of closing all the shops belonging
+to Armenians during the stay of the
+redifs in the town. This was a precautionary
+measure. It had given great umbrage to the
+Christians. My visitor loudly denounced the proceeding.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Are people ever tortured here?" I inquired.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_283' name='Page_283' href='#Page_283'>283</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No," said the engineer; "the law is, or
+rather the judges are, much too merciful. There
+has been only one execution during the last three
+years. The culprit was a soldier; his first wife
+had been seduced by a neighbour. He put her
+away and took another, but at the same time said
+to his neighbour, 'If you seduce this woman I
+will kill you!' The threat had no effect. The
+soldier's second wife was treated as the former
+one had been: he revenged himself by killing
+the adulterer; for this offence he was hanged."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Are people ever impaled here?" I inquired,
+still having the two English priests who wrote
+some letters to the <i>Times</i> about what they said
+they had seen when travelling on the Danube, in
+my mind's eye.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Armenian smiled.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, not so bad as that. I believe a robber
+was impaled eighteen years ago; at all events,
+there is some tradition to that effect."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Shortly afterwards my visitors left the room.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_284' name='Page_284' href='#Page_284'>284</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+The prison in Sivas—Christian prisoners—The gaoler—Kurds
+and Circassians—A few Armenians—False statement made
+to me by Christians—The old murderer—The firman for
+his execution—Kept in suspense—Our Governor dislikes
+shedding blood—Issek Pacha—He may die—His residence—The
+law in Turkey about murder—Mercenary dealings—Lax
+justice.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The following day I walked across the square
+to the prison. I had not said anything to the
+authorities in Sivas about my intended visit to
+this establishment. I wished to see it under its
+everyday aspect, and at the same time to find out
+if there were so many Christians prisoners as
+the Armenians in Yuzgat would have had me
+believe.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I found the gaoler seated in the doorway,
+he was smoking a long pipe.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Can I see the prison?" I asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Certainly, Effendi."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Going before me, he led the way to a lofty
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_285' name='Page_285' href='#Page_285'>285</a></span>
+but narrow room. Here there were twenty-seven
+prisoners, clothed in rags and tatters; each man
+had his wrist fastened to his instep by a light
+iron chain. No gaoler slept in this room with
+the prisoners. They would not have had any difficulty
+in freeing themselves from their manacles
+had they tried to do so.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What do you give them to eat?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"A loaf of bread (about 2 lbs. weight) every
+day, and some water," was the reply. "However,
+many of them have friends in the town,
+and they are supplied with provisions from outside."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What are the prisoners mostly here for?" I
+asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"For robbery and murder. We have a great
+many Kurds and Circassians for horse and cattle
+stealing. Then there are a few Armenians, the
+latter chiefly for crime connected with money
+matters."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How many prisoners are there altogether?"
+I remarked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"One hundred and two."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"And how many Christians?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Six; all the rest belong to Islam."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As the population of Sivas is fairly divided
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_286' name='Page_286' href='#Page_286'>286</a></span>
+between the two sects, it was very flattering for
+the Armenians that there should be so few of their
+number amongst the prisoners. But, after what
+I had been told at Yuzgat, my belief in the
+truthfulness of their community was very much
+shaken.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In another part of the gaol there were several
+prisoners without chains. They were walking
+about in an enclosed courtyard. One of them,
+an old man who was very much bowed down
+by years, appealed to us. Taking my hand he
+touched it with his forehead, and then besought
+me to speak to the Pacha for him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What is he here for?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"For murder," was the reply; "and a very
+cold-blooded murder too."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He is a Circassian," continued the gaoler,
+"and the firman for his execution arrived at Sivas
+two years ago."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," said the old man, in a whining voice,
+"two years ago! and I have been kept in suspense
+ever since. It is an awful thing, Effendi—I
+never know from one hour to another that it
+may not be my last!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why was he not executed?" I inquired of
+the official.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Our Governor dislikes shedding blood," said
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_287' name='Page_287' href='#Page_287'>287</a></span>
+the gaoler," and he has put the firman away in a
+drawer."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," interrupted the aged murderer; "Issek
+Pacha is a kind man, he will not put me to death;
+but he is very old—he may die! The Governor
+who will succeed him might find the firman, and
+order me to be hanged!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, what do you want me to do?" I asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Only, Effendi, to beseech the Pacha to tear up
+the firman!" cried the old man in imploring
+tones. "Let me end my years in the prison, for
+here every one is kind to me; and let me not be
+strangled at the end of a rope on the scaffold!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, I will speak to Issek Pacha," I said;
+and with difficulty escaping from the murderer,
+who threw himself on all fours and frantically
+embraced my legs, I walked to the governor's
+residence.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He was seated on a sofa at one end of a large
+hall, and surrounded by attendants with documents
+awaiting his signature. He at once rose,
+and motioned to me to sit down by his side. After
+the customary salutations, I mentioned to him that
+I had just visited the prison and had seen the old
+murderer.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Ah! you have seen him," said the Pacha gravely,
+at the same time slowly stroking his stomach.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_288' name='Page_288' href='#Page_288'>288</a></span>
+"He is in a great state of mind, I believe, lest
+I should die before he does, and my successor
+order the sentence to be put into execution. But
+he has nothing to fear; I have the firman safe in
+my drawer, and am trying to arrange the matter
+with the relatives of the murdered man."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It appears that there is a curious law in
+Turkey, to the effect that if a man has committed
+a murder, and the order for his execution has
+come from Constantinople, the Pacha whose duty
+it is to have the sentence carried out need not do
+so, provided that the relations of the murdered person
+request that the assassin's life may be spared.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This frequently gives rise to mercenary dealings
+between the assassin and the relatives, for the latter
+hold his life in their hands. If the murderer is
+rich, he will often have to give up all his property;
+and then if the relations pardon him, the law enacts
+that he must spend fifteen years in gaol. The
+manner of carrying out this part of the sentence is
+extremely lax. Should the friends of the prisoner
+be able to scrape together enough money to satisfy
+the officials connected with the prison, the murderer
+will be allowed to escape and remain at large
+in his native town.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Later in the day two Armenian gentlemen
+called upon me. Presently one of them remarked
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_289' name='Page_289' href='#Page_289'>289</a></span>
+that Issek Pacha was immensely rich,
+and that many tales were in circulation about
+him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," said his companion, "there is a story to
+the effect that one day the Grand Vizier was walking
+by the side of the Bosphorus with the late
+Sultan Abdul Aziz. A beautiful yacht, the
+property of Issek Pacha, happened to be anchored
+close to the royal palace. 'What a magnificent
+vessel!' said the Sultan. 'To whom does it
+belong?' The Grand Vizier," continued the
+Armenian, "did not much like the Governor of
+Sivas, and replied, 'It was the property of Issek
+Pacha, but he has sent it here to be placed at
+your majesty's disposal.' 'Write and say that I
+accept it with pleasure,' said the Sultan. The
+first notification which Issek Pacha had of this
+transaction was the receipt of an official letter from
+Constantinople enclosing the Sultan's thanks for
+the present.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"A subscription had been recently started in
+the vilayet or province of Sivas, with the object
+of collecting funds to enable the Government
+to continue the war. Ten thousand liras were
+collected. The Pacha sent the money to the
+Grand Vizier without exactly stating the sources
+from which it was derived. The minister at once
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_290' name='Page_290' href='#Page_290'>290</a></span>
+ordered the receipt of this sum, as coming from
+Issek Pacha, to be acknowledged in the public
+journals; he also desired a secretary to write
+an official letter to the governor to thank him for
+his large donation, and say in the postscript that
+when the rest of the people in the province of
+Sivas had sent in their subscriptions, he was to
+forward them immediately to Constantinople.
+Our Pacha did not like this letter," continued my
+informant. "However, what could he do? he is
+an enormously rich man, and, though it went very
+much against the grain, he sent a fresh 10,000 liras
+to the Porte."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was clear that the Armenians did not
+love their Pacha. From what I subsequently
+heard, their dislike to him originates in the fact
+that he is not amenable to bribes. That he is not
+a miser can be easily shown. Misers are not in
+the habit of expending large sums of money in the
+construction of public buildings. Issek Pacha
+at the time of my stay in Sivas was having a
+large mosque built in the town of Erzingan, at
+his own expense. It was said that this building
+would cost him 40,000 Turkish liras.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Three American missionaries called; they had
+been settled for several years in Anatolia, and
+had succeeded in making some converts amidst the
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_291' name='Page_291' href='#Page_291'>291</a></span>
+Armenians, but they had not in any one instance
+induced a Mohammedan to change his faith.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I inquired if it were true, as stated at Yuzgat,
+that Armenian boys and girls had been carried
+away from their parents, and shut up in Issek
+Pacha's seraglio.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No! no," said one of my visitors. "At all
+events, we have never heard of anything at all
+authentic as to such proceedings." When I
+mentioned the subject of impalement, and asked
+if they had ever known of any Christians who had
+been impaled by the Pacha's orders, the three
+missionaries seemed very much surprised at the
+question, one of them observed that the Turks
+were by no means a cruel race; but that their
+system of administering justice was a bad one.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I now learnt that the proprietor of the house in
+which I was living was a shoemaker. The Pacha
+had hired from him the apartments which I
+occupied, and which were generally given to travellers.
+Mohammed, when he gave me this piece
+of information, suggested that it would be a good
+opportunity for me to buy him a pair of boots.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Such beautiful boots as there are downstairs,"
+he continued, "the Effendi could get both
+his feet into one of them. They will keep out
+the cold. If I do not have something over my
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_292' name='Page_292' href='#Page_292'>292</a></span>
+slippers I shall be frost-bitten before we reach
+Kars!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The proprietor brought the boots for my
+inspection. He had a very Jewish type of
+countenance, and at once commenced driving a
+bargain with Mohammed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But you told me downstairs that the boots
+were 125 piastres, and now you ask 165!"
+observed the Turkish servant indignantly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"They are my boots, and not yours!" said the
+Armenian, "and I shall charge what I like for
+them!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It appeared that the difference of opinion
+between Mohammed and the shoemaker had
+arisen owing to the Armenian thinking that he
+would be paid in <i>caime</i>, or bank notes, and not
+in silver. Caime in Sivas had fallen to 165
+piastres the lira. It was formerly 125; so by the
+depreciation of the paper currency the shoemaker
+would lose 40 piastres on every pair of boots he
+sold, if purchased from him at the present rate of
+exchange. Many of the Turks were alarmed at
+the constant fall in the value of their paper
+currency. They objected very strongly to being
+paid any large sums in Turkish bank-notes.
+According to the son of Crispin, only ten years
+previous the Government had issued an immense
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_293' name='Page_293' href='#Page_293'>293</a></span>
+quantity of caime, and had said that in the
+following month of March this paper would
+be accepted in payment of the taxes.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"March arrived," continued the shoemaker,
+"we took our caime to the tax-collectors. They
+would not receive it.  A vast number of the
+notes then issued are still in the possession of
+merchants in this town, and are valueless."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When I was in Yuzgat Mr. Vankovitch had
+asked me to intercede with Issek Pacha for an
+Italian lady, the widow of a Pole who had died a
+few months previously in Sivas. The Pole had
+been the chief engineer in the district, and at the
+time of his death was owed about 120<i>l</i>. by the
+Turkish authorities. His widow had applied to
+the Pacha for this sum, but was refused payment
+on the ground that she had a son, and that
+her late husband's father was still living.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You must write to your husband's Ambassador,"
+said the Pacha, "and ask him to
+inform us how the law of succession is applied in
+his country, we will then pay you everything to
+which you are entitled."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the meantime an inhabitant took pity upon
+the Italian lady, and had received her into his
+harem. Here she was now living, and anxiously
+awaiting a reply from Constantinople to her
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_294' name='Page_294' href='#Page_294'>294</a></span>
+letter. Months passed away, no answer came.
+The poor woman had exhausted the small resources
+which she possessed at the time of her
+husband's death.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_295' name='Page_295' href='#Page_295'>295</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER XXVII.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+The Governor calls—A great honour—The Khedive's treasurer—The
+Pacha's carriage—The Turks and Christians—The
+Russian Government—The Armenian subjects of the
+Porte—The seeds of disaffection—General Ignatieff—The
+treasurer—The Italian lady—Erzingan—The Governor's
+invitation—The cold in this country—The Pacha nearly
+frozen to death—His march from Kars to Erzeroum—Deep
+chasms along the track—The Conference is over—The
+Missionaries' home—American hospitality—The ladies—A
+Turkish woman in the streets of New York—A Chinese
+lad—New Orleans—The Anglo-Indian telegraph—The
+Franco-German War—The potato plant—The Armenians
+more deceitful than the Turks—The converts to Protestantism—The
+Tzar's Government does not tolerate any
+religion save its own—The superstitions attached to the
+Greek faith.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was thinking of calling upon the Italian lady
+when Mohammed, running into my room, informed
+me that the governor was actually coming in person
+to call upon me, and that it was a great
+honour; for some time before this the Khedive's
+treasurer had passed through Sivas, and Issek
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_296' name='Page_296' href='#Page_296'>296</a></span>
+Pacha had not deigned to visit him, but had conversed
+with the Egyptian from the street.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"See what a great man you are, Effendi!"
+said the delighted Mohammed. "The equal of a
+Pacha too! fortunate is my fate that I have been
+assigned to you as a servant!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The governor drove up to the door in a
+vehicle which very much resembled a brewer's
+dray. It was the only carriage of any sort or
+kind in Sivas. This fact alone added considerably
+to the Pacha's importance in that town. He
+was a corpulent man, and required a great deal of
+pushing at the hands of his two attendants to
+make him pass through the doorway of the
+carriage; two steps enabled the person inside the
+vehicle to descend to the ground.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Issek Pacha, turning with great caution,
+walked backwards, his two servants holding his
+feet and guiding them to the steps below. After
+resting a few seconds, to recover from this
+exertion, the governor slowly mounted the staircase
+which led to my apartment.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He now told me that twenty-five years ago the
+Turks and Christians got on very well together, but
+ever since the Crimean war the Russian Government
+has been actively engaged in tampering with the
+Armenian subjects of the Porte, and has been
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_297' name='Page_297' href='#Page_297'>297</a></span>
+doing its best to sow the seeds of disaffection
+amongst the younger Armenians, by promising
+to make them counts and dukes in the event of
+their rising in arms against the Porte.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"If it were not for Russian intrigues," continued
+the Pacha, "we Turks should be very good friends
+with the Christians. But Ignatieff is very clever,
+he will not let us alone, and does his best to create
+discord in our ranks."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I mentioned the case of the Italian lady, and
+asked him if he could not do something for her.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is a very difficult question," replied the
+Pacha; "her husband, the engineer, was a refugee
+Pole, and had lost his nationality as a Russian
+subject. Moreover, his father lives in Russia, and
+may claim that the son's property should be
+administered according to Muscovite laws. Then
+there is an infant child; and, besides this, the lady
+herself is an Italian, and is expecting another
+baby. We have written to Constantinople for
+instructions, when they arrive we shall know
+what proportion of the husband's property is due
+to the widow."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What should you advise to be done in the
+matter?" he inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"My opinion is that you ought to give the lady
+sufficient money to pay her expenses so far as Constantinople;
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_298' name='Page_298' href='#Page_298'>298</a></span>
+for there she can speak to her own
+Ambassador, and arrange the business more easily
+than it can be done here."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Not a bad idea," said the Pacha. "I
+will advance two months of her husband's salary."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"<i>Gell!</i> come!" he cried to a crowd of servants
+who were waiting outside, and whilst one attendant
+handed him a cigarette, and a second some coffee,
+the Pacha desired a third to tell his treasurer that
+he wished to speak to him immediately. This
+official now arrived.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I want two months' wages from the sum owing
+to the late engineer to be brought here at once,"
+said the governor.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But no order about the distribution of the
+property has come from Constantinople," replied
+the treasurer hesitatingly; "if we pay any
+money to the widow, we shall be held responsible
+for it ourselves."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No," I said, "I will be responsible for the
+amount. If the authorities at Constantinople say
+that you have done wrong, I will repay you the
+money."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Certainly not," said the Pacha; "the responsibility
+is mine. My orders are to be instantly
+obeyed," he added.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_299' name='Page_299' href='#Page_299'>299</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Is the money to be paid in caime or silver?"
+asked the treasurer.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Silver," was the reply. "When the poor
+woman's husband died, caime was worth as much
+as medjidis, but now there is a great difference,
+she must not be the loser. Run!" he cried.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"On my head be it!" replied the treasurer.
+In a few minutes he returned with a small sack of
+silver.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Will you take it to the lady yourself?" said
+the governor, handing me the bag. "And when
+do you leave Sivas?" he added.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Probably in three days' time."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well," continued the governor, "you will pass
+by Erzingan, where I have some property, and I
+hope you will stay in my house. Nay, no thanks.
+It will be doing me an honour, and I have written
+for rooms to be prepared. I shall send some
+Zaptiehs with you," he added.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I do not want any."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Nay, but you must have some. You will
+have terrible hard work in crossing the mountains
+between this and Divriki. There are
+already two or three feet of snow on the track.
+In some places you will require men to dig
+a way before your party. You do not know
+what the cold is in this country," he continued.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_300' name='Page_300' href='#Page_300'>300</a></span>
+"I was once nearly frozen to death myself, going
+from Kars to Erzeroum, just about the time of the
+Crimean war. I had 500 soldiers with me; a
+snow-storm came on, we lost our way. My men
+strayed in different directions. I had furs, and was
+able to resist the cold, but when we counted up
+my party the next morning, more than half the
+men were frost-bitten, and several had died during
+the night. There is another reason why you require
+several guides," added the governor. "The path
+over the mountains is covered with snow, and
+there are deep chasms and fissures alongside the
+track, some of them are more than a hundred feet
+deep. The guides carry poles, and will sound the
+path before your horses, otherwise you will not
+have much chance of reaching Kars."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Conference is over," said the Pacha, as he
+rose from the divan. "The news has been telegraphed
+to us from Constantinople."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What has been the result of it?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Nothing! What else could you expect?
+Particularly when Russia, the cause and origin of
+all our difficulties, was permitted to have a representative
+at the Conference—and such a representative—for
+General Ignatieff is a cunning old
+fox!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then shaking hands with me—which I afterwards
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_301' name='Page_301' href='#Page_301'>301</a></span>
+learned from Mohammed was a very great
+honour—the Pacha waddled downstairs, and drove
+to his official residence.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Later in the day I rode to the missionaries'
+home, a pleasant little house situated in the
+outskirts of the town. On their arrival in
+Sivas they had taken an abode from some
+Armenians, but the latter demanded such an
+exorbitant rent for the house in question that
+the missionaries determined to build one for
+themselves.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+My friends' names were Perry, Hubbard, and
+Riggs. They received me with that hospitality
+which an Englishman always receives from Americans,
+no matter whether they meet him in the
+States or elsewhere.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Two of these gentlemen had brought their
+wives with them from America. Several ruddy-faced
+and pretty children who were playing in the
+room showed that the climate of Sivas was in no
+way an unhealthy one.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The ladies liked the place; but when they first
+came here they had to put up with a great deal of
+annoyance, owing to the Turkish little boys. The
+latter, unaccustomed to see women walking about
+in European costume, and with their faces uncovered,
+had sometimes followed them in the street
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_302' name='Page_302' href='#Page_302'>302</a></span>
+and thrown mud at their dresses. Whenever
+this occurred, and any elder Turks were present,
+they had chastised their young compatriots and
+put an immediate end to the disturbance.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I dare say," observed one of the missionaries,
+"that it was a strange sight for the people in
+Sivas to see our ladies walking about the town.
+However, if a Turkish woman were put down in
+the streets of New York, I reckon that she would
+have a crowd at her heels before long."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This remark reminded me of an episode which
+had recently occurred in America, and which had
+found its way into the newspapers. It appeared
+that a Chinese lad was selling sweets and lollipops
+in New Orleans, when a burly native, coming up
+to him, kicked over the tray and the boy's wares.
+The lad, without a word of remonstrance, picked
+up his lollipops. The man a second time upset
+them into the mud. The child looked at his
+tormentor, and, collecting his sweetmeats, said to
+him, "You are a Christian and I am a heathen;
+I should be sorry to change places with you!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There are bad people all over the world,"
+remarked one of the missionaries; "the poor
+ignorant Turks are not nearly so cruel as some
+people would have us believe."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, they are not cruel," observed another
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_303' name='Page_303' href='#Page_303'>303</a></span>
+gentleman, "but they are pig-headed—that is
+their great fault. They will not advance with the
+times in which they live; if they adopt European
+inventions, they copy them blindly, and
+without adapting them to circumstances. Soon
+after the telegraph was invented, the Turks determined
+to have special lines, and to use
+the Turkish alphabet; the man who was employed
+to arrange the system copied it blindly from
+our own. Now 'E' and 'I,' the fifth and ninth
+letters in our alphabet, are those which occur very
+frequently in an ordinary message; in Europe
+the telegraph dial is so arranged as to facilitate
+the transmission of the letters most often employed.
+The Turk, when he came to 'I,' and
+found it was the ninth letter in our alphabet,
+placed the ninth in his own on the same footing,
+whereas that letter is, comparatively speaking,
+but seldom used."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"A few years ago," observed one of the missionaries,
+"there was an Englishman here connected
+with the Anglo-Indian Telegraph. We
+were then as well supplied with information as the
+people in London or New York. It was the time
+of the French war, and all the news was sent daily
+from England to Hindostan. Our friend used to
+tap the wire, and send us a little budget of information
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_304' name='Page_304' href='#Page_304'>304</a></span>
+every morning; but now he has gone, and
+all that we hear is several weeks or months old."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There was actually a great deal of difficulty in
+introducing the potato plant," remarked another
+gentleman; "this will give you an idea of the
+nature of the people with whom we have to deal.
+Some foreigners brought over the seeds and
+planted them. They came up very well; the
+soil is admirably suited for their growth. But
+the natives would not eat the potatoes. It
+was not until the military authorities, who were
+short of provisions, supplied them to the soldiers
+in lieu of other edibles that the soldiers would partake
+of this vegetable. They soon acquired a taste
+for it, and potato culture is gradually spreading
+throughout the district."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I tell you what it is," said another missionary,
+"the Turks about here are just the inside-out-sidest
+and the outside-insidest, the bottom-side-upwardest
+and the top-side-downwardest, the
+back-side-forwardest and the forward-side-backwardest
+people I have ever seen. Why, they call
+a compass, which points to the north, 'Quebleh,'
+south, just for the sake of contradiction, and they
+have to change their watches every twenty-four
+hours, because they count their time from after sunset,
+instead of reckoning up the day like Christians."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_305' name='Page_305' href='#Page_305'>305</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The peculiarity of this gentleman's expressions
+rather struck me at the time. It was clear that
+he had not formed a favourable opinion of the Sultan's
+Mohammedan subjects; but when I changed
+the conversation to the Armenians, I found that
+the company looked upon them as being quite
+as ignorant as the Turks, and much more deceitful.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The good missionaries found the conversion of
+these superstitious and ignorant Christians of the
+East a very difficult and uphill task. Indeed I
+subsequently heard from some Armenian Roman
+Catholics, who might have been prejudiced in
+making the statement, that most of the converts
+to Protestantism were from amongst the Armenian
+shop-keepers who supplied the mission with
+goods.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Supposing the Russians were to conquer
+Anatolia, what would be the position of the
+Protestant mission?" I inquired of my hosts.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We should be immediately turned out of
+the country to make way for the Russian
+priests," was the answer. "The Tzar's Government
+does not tolerate any religion save its
+own."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This remark struck me, coming, as it did,
+not from an English Protestant, but from an
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_306' name='Page_306' href='#Page_306'>306</a></span>
+American, and from an inhabitant of that country
+which, in spite of its Republican institutions, has
+always been thought to have a great sympathy
+with Russia.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So the Government of this last-mentioned
+Empire would not brook any foreign mission in
+its territory, and the Emperor would not be likely
+to allow American missionaries to impart to the
+Russian idolaters a knowledge of the Protestant
+faith.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Protestantism implies freedom of thought. The
+right of investigation would be very displeasing
+to a despotic set of rulers. The superstitions
+and debased form of worship attached to the
+Greek religion have no chance of being replaced by
+our pure Protestant faith, until such time as the
+autocratic system of government which prevails
+throughout Russia is terminated by a revolution.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_307' name='Page_307' href='#Page_307'>307</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER XXVIII.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+An Armenian Monastery—A large garden—Farms belonging
+to the Monks—The Bishop—A fast day—The Turkish
+finance—The Armenian merchants in Sivas—The telegraph
+employed by them—The rise and fall in <i>caime</i>—The breath
+of scandal—A former Governor of Sivas—A suspicious case—His
+Eminence cannot marry—Are Protestant Bishops
+allowed to marry?—The Chapels belonging to the
+Monastery—A curious altar—A strange tradition—The
+Martyrs of Sivas—A picture of one of the Kings of
+Armenia—The Kings and the Church—Things are very
+different now—Privileges of the Monks—The Russian war
+with Persia—An Armenian General—Hassan, Khan of
+Persia—Sugar—How to make a large fortune.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The following day I rode to an Armenian
+monastery, which is known by the name of the
+Monastery of Nishan or of the Cross. It stands
+on a rising slope, about two miles from Sivas.
+Its Gothic towers, more than 500 years old, look
+down upon the town and neighbouring villages,
+and can be seen for many miles around.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A large garden, over thirty acres in extent,
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_308' name='Page_308' href='#Page_308'>308</a></span>
+enclosed by a high wall made of dried clay,
+supplies the monks with fruit and vegetables.
+It bounds the monastery upon one side; on the
+other there are several farms, which furnish
+cattle, sheep, and such other live stock as may be
+required.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A long low passage with damp walls led the
+way, with many a winding turn, to the apartment
+which had been reserved for my use.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Here I found the bishop and several other
+priests belonging to the community. The ceiling
+of the room was of handsomely-carved oak, and
+divans, as in the Turkish houses, supplied the
+place of chairs. Some Armenian merchants now
+arrived, and shortly afterwards dinner was announced.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was a fast day. The bishop himself could
+not partake of the dishes. However, he gave permission
+to the other guests to break the fast, and
+a turkey stuffed with apples—the <i><span lang="fr_FR">pièce de résistance</span></i>—was
+nothing to the hungry visitors; the
+dinner being in the Turkish style, made up of a
+series of surprises to our stomachs.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+According to one of the Armenians, the
+Turkish finance was in an utterly hopeless condition.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Our Government," he remarked, "first said
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_309' name='Page_309' href='#Page_309'>309</a></span>
+that it would only issue paper money to the
+amount of 3,000,000 liras, and we have caime
+to the value of 11,000,000 liras in circulation!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," said another merchant, "the lira is
+now at 160 piastres, but if there is a war it will
+rise to 500."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Government will be the loser in the long
+run," he continued, "every one is speculating
+for the fall, and we are buying up all the gold
+we can."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I now learnt that the Armenian merchants in
+Sivas employed the telegraph very freely in their
+monetary speculations. The inhabitants in
+general only knew of the rise or fall in the value
+of their paper money by the post, which arrived
+once every fortnight. The value of caime in
+proportion to gold was reckoned according to
+the date of the post's delivery. But, as the
+Turkish bank-notes were becoming more and
+more depreciated every day, the Armenian merchants
+who employed the telegraph were able
+to make large sums by buying up all the gold in
+the district, and pocketing the difference between
+the actual exchange and that which passed
+current at Sivas.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The walls of the monastery were not thick
+enough to keep the breath of scandal from
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_310' name='Page_310' href='#Page_310'>310</a></span>
+reaching the abode of the recluses. I was told
+of a former governor of Sivas, who had been extremely
+popular throughout the district, and who
+in forty days had actually established order in the
+town and neighbourhood. It appeared that this
+Pacha was a very good-looking man. One day,
+when he was at Constantinople, a sister of the late
+Sultan Abdul Aziz chanced to see him. She wished
+to marry the Adonis; "but unfortunately,"
+added my Armenian informant, "he was in
+love with his own wife, a pretty woman. He
+declined the Sultan's offer to take his sister, who
+was not good-looking, as chief lady in the harem.
+Soon afterwards the Pacha died at Smyrna under
+very suspicious circumstances. It is generally
+supposed that he was poisoned."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"His Eminence is freed from all such dangers,"
+whispered another of the guests, as he called my
+attention by a nudge with his elbow.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How so?" I asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why, he cannot marry. Our bishops are not
+allowed this indulgence. Should a priest take
+unto himself a wife, he can never become a
+bishop."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How does your system answer?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Answer! very badly. They are not allowed
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_311' name='Page_311' href='#Page_311'>311</a></span>
+to have wives of their own; but they look after
+the welfare of the ladies in their congregation.
+Are your Protestant bishops allowed to
+marry?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, it would be a good thing for the married
+people in Armenia, if our bishops had the
+same permission."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I now went to see the chapels belonging to the
+monastery.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+An altar in one of them was profusely decorated
+with gold and other ornaments. It was erected
+to the memory of the four martyrs of Sivas who
+were torn to pieces by the Pagans about 1500
+years ago. It is said that our Saviour shortly afterwards
+appeared to the inhabitants of the town in the
+form of a bird, and alighted upon a large stone
+near the place where the four Christians had been
+murdered. The stone was subsequently taken to
+the monastery, and this altar had been erected
+upon it. In another chapel, there was a picture of
+one of the kings of Armenia in the act of being
+consecrated by an archbishop of Sivas. The holy
+father who called my attention to this picture
+pointed to the suppliant form of the king, who
+was kneeling before a priest, and to a monk
+who was writing the date of the coronation on
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_312' name='Page_312' href='#Page_312'>312</a></span>
+a scroll of parchment, and looking down upon the
+sovereign.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Things are very different to what they were
+then," remarked the priest. "In those days
+even kings had to obey the holy Church. They
+do not think anything of us now," he added,
+with a sigh; "instead of giving presents to the
+Church, they take away from it the few privileges
+and the little wealth it has left."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Have you any privileges belonging to your
+order?" I asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Only one; we have not to pay any duty upon
+salt, and I suppose that even this slight exemption
+from taxation will be taken away from us ere
+long."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A throne belonging to a former king of Armenia
+was next produced. It was made of ebony, and
+in form much resembled a shut-up garden-chair,
+but one of gigantic dimensions. The sovereign
+for whom this throne had been made, died several
+hundred years ago at Sivas. The worthy fathers
+differed a few hundred years as to the date of the
+monarch's decease, and so it is impossible for me
+to give it. His bones were taken to Van, and
+interred there; however, his sons reigned for
+many years afterwards, and held their court at
+Sivas.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_313' name='Page_313' href='#Page_313'>313</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Our nation has had a great many reverses,"
+said the bishop; "but who knows what is in
+store for us?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We do not want any Russian rulers!" said
+an old Armenian merchant. "When I was
+a child," he continued, "the Russians made war
+upon the Persians. A general, second in command
+of the Russian forces, was an Armenian.
+The head of our Church helped the Russians, and
+25,000 Armenians were levied to aid them in the
+war against the Shah. The Persian army was
+annihilated; twenty-five cities were destroyed;
+the invading forces advanced towards Teheran.
+The Shah then made a treaty with Russia."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What has that got to do with your dislike
+of the Russians?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Listen!" said the old man. "After the war
+was over, the Russian chief was alarmed lest the
+Armenian general, who was a very skilful officer,
+might make himself King of Armenia. He
+accused him of treason, had his eyes taken out,
+and sent him a prisoner to Russia."<a name='FA_18' id='FA_18' href='#FN_18' class='fnanchor'>[18]</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Russians would not have been pleased if
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_314' name='Page_314' href='#Page_314'>314</a></span>
+we had been made independent at that time," said
+a priest. "They have always looked upon us as
+a certain inheritance, all they want to do is to
+take our territory without having to fight for
+it."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We revenged ourselves upon Hassan, Khan
+of Persia, who had defiled one of our churches
+near Ararat," remarked the old merchant.
+"He was taken prisoner and transported to the
+church which he had desecrated. He was afterwards
+tied face to face with a dog, and given
+the same food as that animal. The Persian soon
+died of shame or starvation."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There is but little export trade from Sivas.
+Tobacco is the staple produce of the country.
+All the articles imported are very dear, owing to
+the expense of transport from Samsoun, the roads
+between Sivas and that port being very bad.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Sugar, I was informed, costs eighteenpence a
+pound. If an enterprising inhabitant were to
+start a manufactory of this article of consumption,
+he would speedily make an immense fortune.
+Beetroot and a peculiar sort of sweet carrot
+abound throughout the district. The first-mentioned
+vegetable can be bought for eight shillings
+a ton. It might be grown for very much less.
+Any amount of water power could be brought
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_315' name='Page_315' href='#Page_315'>315</a></span>
+from the neighbouring mountains to bear upon
+machinery. Coal is also to be found in the
+neighbourhood. This part of Anatolia is supplied
+with sugar from Constantinople. If it were
+manufactured on the spot, the profit would be
+very great, for the cost of carriage would be saved;
+in all probability it would utterly supplant the
+Constantinople sugar, and soon find a market
+throughout the whole of Asia Minor.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_316' name='Page_316' href='#Page_316'>316</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER XXIX.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+The principal mosque—An ostrich egg—Curious custom—The
+dancing dervishes—A regiment of cavalry leaves Sivas—The
+arms of the men—Appearance of the horses—A short
+route to Erzeroum—Dudusa—The Kizil Ermak—Scenery—Glass
+replaced by alabaster—A raid on an Armenian
+village—The robbers caught—Women said to have been
+outraged—Kotnu—An accident—The Zaptiehs out of
+temper—Mohammed's appetite—A comparison between
+Mohammed and Osman.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On leaving the monastery, we rode to the principal
+mosque of the town. I was struck by seeing
+a large ostrich egg suspended from the ceiling
+by a silver chain. On my asking the Turk who
+showed me over the building, why this egg was
+hung there, he replied,—
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Effendi, the ostrich always looks at the eggs
+which she lays; if one of them is bad, she breaks it.
+This egg is suspended here as a warning to men
+that, if they are bad, God will break them in the
+same way as the ostrich does her eggs."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_317' name='Page_317' href='#Page_317'>317</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mohammed met me as I was returning to my
+house. He was very much excited.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What is the matter?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Effendi, a regiment is about to march to
+Erzeroum. It will be a grand sight. The Pacha
+will accompany it out of the town. The dancing
+dervishes will go before the band. Other dervishes
+will be there with sharp knives; they will cut
+themselves, but the blood will not flow! It will
+be a miracle! And all this we can see from the
+Effendi's window!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Happy are you, O Mohammed, to be able to
+see such wonderful sights without paying for
+them," I remarked; then, giving him my horse, I
+went upstairs to my room.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+An immense crowd had gathered in the square;
+the part facing the barracks was thronged by
+hundreds of idlers who were eagerly pressing
+against the gates. Presently they were thrown
+wide open. The governor, in his dray-like
+carriage, issued from the portals. He was accompanied
+by the colonel of the regiment, who
+was mounted on a superb grey, and rode by the
+side of the Pacha's vehicle.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Next came six dancing dervishes clad in sackcloth,
+and with long cowls over their green
+turbans. They in their turn were followed by
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_318' name='Page_318' href='#Page_318'>318</a></span>
+about twenty men—some carrying what appeared
+to be bill-hooks—others, maces with leaden balls
+attached to them by chains, and bright steel
+skewers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"This is delightful!" said Mohammed, who, by
+way of seeing better, had climbed on to the top of
+the divan, torn away the piece of paper which
+supplied the place of a pane of glass, and, having
+thrust his head and shoulders through the aperture,
+was staring with his mouth wide open at the procession.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Please God they will soon begin to cut themselves!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+However, he was doomed to disappointment;
+the dervishes had already cut themselves in the
+barrack-yard, and were not inclined to repeat the
+performance.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On they went in serried ranks, followed by the
+troopers, all of whom were excellently mounted on
+horses averaging about fifteen hands, and which
+looked in capital condition. The men were armed
+with American revolvers and repeating-rifles,
+whilst a short curved scimitar hung by each man's
+side.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How long will it be before they reach
+Erzeroum?" I inquired of Mohammed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"About a month," was the answer; "but they
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_319' name='Page_319' href='#Page_319'>319</a></span>
+are going by a short route by Kara Hissar, and
+we by Divriki, Arabkir, and Egin, which will be a
+long way round. We shall arrive first at our
+destination, as the regiment will not march more
+than sixteen miles a day."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Pacha ordered his coachman to draw
+up the carriage on one side of the road; the
+dervishes raised a mournful yell. The regiment,
+passing onward, was lost to view behind an avenue
+of poplars.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The following morning I started at daybreak in
+the direction of Dudusa, a village about five hours
+from Sivas. For some distance we marched alongside
+the left bank of the Kizil Ermak. The track
+was very heavy. The baggage-horses had great
+difficulty in making a way through the mud.
+Presently we came upon some firm soil. The
+scenery changed from a flat expanse of plough-land
+to a winding chain of rugged heights.
+Chain succeeded chain. Snowy crests were piled
+up in rear of each other like the billows of
+the deep. Our path led round these mountain
+peaks. From time to time we caught a glimpse
+of the Kizil Ermak, which, white as silver, flowed
+through the vale at our feet. Nature's walls on all
+sides of us were of every colour; at every moment,
+red, blue, and grey sandstone met our gaze.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_320' name='Page_320' href='#Page_320'>320</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We round a neighbouring crag; a vast rock
+of the purest marble lies before our party. Huge
+blocks strew the borders of the path; they sparkle
+beneath the sky, and rival in their Parian whiteness
+the snowy heights overhead. On the summit
+of an adjacent hill is the monastery of Dudusa,
+and at its foot the village of the same name, made
+up of straggling houses, built at long intervals
+apart—some of mud and marble; others—where
+the inhabitants had been too idle to transport
+the blocks from the adjacent rock—of dried
+clay; and a few of the abodes of the better-to-do
+farmers actually boasting glass windows!
+In other houses the panes were replaced by
+paper or pieces of some transparent alabaster,
+which is found in large quantities in the neighbourhood.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Dudusa is an Armenian village. I now learnt
+that Issek Pacha was very popular amongst the
+villagers. I must say that I was a little surprised
+at this, after the way the Armenians in Sivas had
+abused their governor. Two months previous,
+some Turks, from a neighbouring hamlet, had
+made a raid on the flocks belonging to the inhabitants
+of Dudusa, and had carried off fifty sheep.
+Information of the robbery was given to the
+Pacha, he at once sent out a party of soldiers.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_321' name='Page_321' href='#Page_321'>321</a></span>
+The robbers had been arrested. They were
+expiating their offence in prison.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had heard at Sivas that a redif battalion
+which had lately marched to Erzeroum had outraged
+some women near Dudusa. I took the
+opportunity to inquire if the story were true.
+Like many other statements which had been
+made to me by the so-called Christians in Anatolia,
+it turned out to be a fiction. The redif soldiers
+had passed that way. The only thing which could
+be said against them was that they had not paid
+for the bread with which they had been supplied,
+as the military authorities had not given them any
+money. There were no officers with the troops,
+but the men had given the name of their regiment.
+On application to head-quarters, the amount due
+would be transmitted to the villagers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I did not stay long at Dudusa, but, after lunching
+at the priest's house, continued the march
+towards Kotnu, another village about twenty-seven
+miles, or about nine hours from the capital of the
+province.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was dusk long ere we reached our halting-place.
+In passing over a narrow wooden bridge,
+one of my horses put his foot down a hole between
+the planks, and nearly broke his leg. Misfortunes
+never come singly. A moment later, the poor brute
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_322' name='Page_322' href='#Page_322'>322</a></span>
+strayed a few yards from the track. He was at
+once bogged in the treacherous soil. Everything
+had to be unstrapped from the saddle, a rope was
+attached to his surcingle, and then, by means of
+the other horses, he was dragged from the
+slimy trammels. It was hard work loading him
+again.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The thermometer had fallen to considerably below
+zero. The wind howled and blew the snowy
+flakes in our faces. The horses would not stand
+still. Our matches were wet through. We could
+not light them. Under such circumstances we
+had to arrange the baggage.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Zaptiehs who had been sent to act as
+guides would not help; they sat still, cursing
+their destiny which had made them accompany a
+mad giaour like myself, who had chosen to travel
+from Scutari to Kars all the way by land, instead
+of going the greater part of the distance by sea,
+like a sensible true believer. I have but little doubt
+that the same train of thought was passing through
+Mohammed's and Radford's mind. However,
+the latter never flinched, and Mohammed had
+evidently won his friendship, for, on my asking my
+English servant how he liked his new companion,
+he replied, "Sir, he is worth three of Osman at
+any time, save praying-times, and then there is
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_323' name='Page_323' href='#Page_323'>323</a></span>
+not a pin to choose between them. They must be
+awful sinners, these Mohammedans, if they require
+five prayers a day to settle the account with their
+consciences. Mohammed ain't that artful as
+Osman was. He don't choose the moment when
+there is work to be done, to set to work at his
+victuals, or to flop down on his knees to say
+his prayers. Mohammed has his pray all to
+himself afterwards, and then it don't so much
+signify!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What! Has not Mohammed so good an
+appetite as Osman?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, sir, Mohammed has more of a Christian's
+appetite; he is satisfied with what I put before
+him, he don't go prigging out of the tin like
+that there other Turk. Why, I watched Osman
+one day eating a chicken which I had kept back
+for your supper! A few days before, I had
+missed one out of the pot, and had taxed him
+with it; he then said, '<i>keupek</i>,' dog, as if a dog
+would go and lift up the lid of the tin! I used to
+call Osman 'keupek' afterwards, and he did not
+seem to like it. The other Turks, when they
+want to give it a fellow, tell him that he is
+the grandson of a dog; but I called Osman the
+original animal—dirty hound that he was too—quite
+spoiled my coat, that he did!"
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_324' name='Page_324' href='#Page_324'>324</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And my servant, lighting a short wooden pipe,
+the wonder of the Turks, smoked furiously—the
+rapidity of his puffs probably denoting an extreme
+dislike to his late fellow-servant.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_325' name='Page_325' href='#Page_325'>325</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER XXX.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+Snow—The path covered by it—The scenery—Upset in a snow-drift—Nearly
+down a chasm—Probing the ground—A
+consultation—Teaching my followers manners—May he
+die of the plague—A baggage-horse knocked up—Yarbasan—A
+dirty village—The farmer committing himself to
+Providence—Visiting his friends—The Zaptiehs—Their
+remarks—The giaour threatened to beat us—The Inglis
+giaour is different to the Armenian giaour.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Snow fell heavily during the night. The next
+morning our path was covered to a depth of
+quite two feet. In the valley it was as much as
+our horses could do to force a passage onward;
+but, as we ascended a mountain path, the snow,
+though deep, was in a frozen state, and afforded a
+firm foothold.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The scenery was very picturesque as we gradually
+climbed the steep. The bushes and pine-trees
+which studded the mountain's sides were
+wreathed in flossy snow; crags of all shapes and
+colours glinted out above the pale white carpet.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_326' name='Page_326' href='#Page_326'>326</a></span>
+A thick veil of azure clouds hung on the peaks of
+the distant hills; then, gradually dispersed by the
+rising sun, it broke up into a hundred different
+forms, and, ascending higher in the sky, opened
+out other mountains to our vision. Layer upon
+layer of seemingly ever-ascending ranges barred
+the way in front. They sparkled beneath the rays
+of the golden orb. They flashed and glittered
+like the billows of the mighty deep. My eyeballs
+acted and felt as if they would burst beneath the
+glare. The village at our feet disappeared in the
+distance; shrubs and such-like traces of vegetation
+were now no longer to be seen. We had
+arrived in the midst of what seemed to be a vast
+white ocean. The intensity of the light created
+a kind of mirage along the surface. The various
+crests and ranges seemed to rise and fall. They
+became more wave-like than before. Not a
+living thing was in sight save ourselves. Ever
+and anon a boom, as of thunder, announced the
+fall of an avalanche.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The cry of "Look out!" from a Zaptieh in
+rear of our party awoke me from the contemplation
+of Nature's marvellous scene. A second
+later, and I found myself on the broad of my back
+in a snow-drift; the animal which I had been
+riding was pawing the air with his fore-legs, like
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_327' name='Page_327' href='#Page_327'>327</a></span>
+a spaniel the first time he is thrown into the
+water; before any one could reach my horse's
+head, over he fell—the soft substance fortunately
+saving my body from the effects of the
+collision. It appeared that I had strayed half a
+yard or so from the track, hence this disaster.
+The Zaptieh in front of our party dismounted,
+taking a wand, six feet in length, from his saddle-bow,
+he began to advance with great caution,
+and to probe the ground before him at every step
+he took.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There are deep holes," said Mohammed,
+wading through the snow to my assistance. "If
+we fall down one of them we shall remain there,
+and in the summer the eagles will pick our bones.
+It will be better for all of us to walk and lead
+the horses," he continued. "Even then we shall
+have great difficulty in effecting a passage. The
+chief Zaptieh has been saying that it would be
+better if we were to return to Kotnu and try to
+cross the mountains to-morrow."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The snow had recommenced falling; it was
+difficult to see what lay before us. However, we
+had accomplished more than half of the day's
+march. In all probability the path would soon
+become more difficult. I determined at all
+hazards to push on, and the more particularly as
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_328' name='Page_328' href='#Page_328'>328</a></span>
+I had no time to waste, owing to my limited leave
+of absence. Forward we waded through the
+gradually-rising drifts. Each man followed his
+neighbour in Indian file; presently the leading
+Zaptieh who was engaged in sounding the path
+before him, buried the six-feet wand in the snow;
+he thrust his elbow down after the stick; there
+was still no bottom. We were off the track. A
+false step might at any moment send us down
+the chasm. A consultation took place between
+the Zaptiehs, the head man urging forcibly upon
+our party the necessity of returning. But when
+we faced the other way, the wind cut against
+our eyes with great violence. The particles of
+snow were so blinding that it was clearly much
+more dangerous to return than to proceed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is our fate!" remarked the chief Zaptieh
+to the comrade by his side.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Destruction seize the giaour who may be the
+cause of all our deaths!" said another.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Let him die of the plague!" added a third.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This rather strong language was uttered in a
+loud tone, and as if the speakers did not care
+whether their observations met my ear or not.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I tell you what it is!" I cried rather sternly
+to my unruly followers, and at the same time
+drawing my revolver; "I cannot reach you with
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_329' name='Page_329' href='#Page_329'>329</a></span>
+my whip; but if you make any more insulting
+remarks, I shall send a bullet in your direction to
+teach you manners!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"For the sake of heaven be quiet!" cried
+Mohammed to the Zaptiehs—for he, being directly
+in the line of fire, did not wish to expose himself
+as a shield to the delinquents.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There will be no baksheesh unless you are as
+docile as horses," continued my Turkish servant.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This last remark, combined with my threat—which,
+it is needless to say, I had no intention to
+put into execution—brought the guides to their
+senses. Presently the stick of the leading Zaptieh
+struck against the track, and, after wading
+through the snow for some three hours more, we
+descended the side of the mountain. The snow
+disappeared as we reached the vale below, and
+deep mud, reaching above our knees, covered the
+track before us. It was terrible hard work for
+the baggage-horses. One of them, stumbling,
+fell prostrate in the mire. No amount of pressure
+would induce him to get up; so, taking off his
+pack-saddle and dividing the baggage as best we
+could—placing some on the saddle-horses and
+carrying the rest ourselves—we struggled on to a
+glimmering light which marked our quarters for
+the night.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_330' name='Page_330' href='#Page_330'>330</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The village of Yarbasan was reached. Sending
+back some of the villagers for the abandoned
+animal, I prepared to make myself as comfortable
+as the circumstances would allow.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the meantime Radford and Mohammed were
+busily engaged in unloading the other baggage-horse.
+The pack-saddle was too broad to pass
+through the narrow gateway; all the luggage had
+to be unstrapped in the street—such a street as it
+was too! Imagine a farm-yard of the dirtiest
+description, and without any straw to absorb the
+filthy refuse; but even this does not convey
+to my own mind the hideous state of the road
+through Yarbasan. The inhabitants possessed
+many cattle, which were each evening driven into
+the village, so as to be out of the way of
+wolves. It had never occurred to the mind of the
+oldest villager to remove the deposits of their
+cows and oxen. If a farmer wished to pay a visit
+to a neighbour across the way, he simply tucked
+up his dressing-gown under his arm-pits, took
+off his slippers, broad trousers, and stockings,
+then, committing himself to Providence, he
+would wade through the dirt to his friend's
+house.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why do you not clean the street?" I
+inquired of my host, an old Turk, who, having
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_331' name='Page_331' href='#Page_331'>331</a></span>
+just come in from the country, was rubbing his
+legs with some straw before the fire.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The mud will dry up in the summer months,"
+replied the man; "why trouble our heads about
+it now?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The inside of the dwelling was not so clean as
+an average pig-sty. Horses, oxen, cows, and
+sheep were stowed away in the same room as ourselves.
+The Zaptiehs had squatted down in one
+corner with the host, Radford and Mohammed lay
+stretched out in the middle of the floor.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In a few minutes a woman arrived from some
+other house in the neighbourhood. She was clad
+in a long strip of cloth, which enveloped the
+upper part of her body; her legs and feet were
+covered with mud. Putting down a large wooden
+tray, on which were several thin cakes of half-cooked
+paste, and a basinful of oily soup, she
+retired. The proprietor of the house, after
+offering the dishes to me, returned to the Zaptiehs.
+In the meantime, closing my eyes, I tried to doze
+off to sleep. Presently the gendarmes thought that
+I was in the land of Somnus, and my attention
+was aroused by the familiar term of "giaour."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Only think of our being ordered to accompany
+an infidel to Divriki in the winter!"
+observed the chief of the party.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_332' name='Page_332' href='#Page_332'>332</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, and for him to threaten to whip us!"
+said the other.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He would have done it too," said Mohammed,
+joining in the conversation. "My Effendi is not
+like the Christians about here. He is an
+Inglis!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"So the Inglis giaours are different to the
+Armenian giaours?" observed the Zaptieh.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Very different: the Armenians talk, but the
+Inglis strike. Hush! hush! we shall awake him!"—and
+the conversation gradually died away in a
+whisper.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_333' name='Page_333' href='#Page_333'>333</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER XXXI.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+The river Dumrudja—How to cross the river?—A waterfall
+in the neighbourhood—Thanksgivings—Crossing the
+mountain—A house of refuge—Divriki—Its appearance—The
+number of houses—The river Tchalt Tchai—The
+Captain—His evolutions—Lor! what a cropper—Serve
+him right, sir—A Astley's performance—My host—Mines
+in the neighbourhood—People with brains—Houses
+formerly built of hewn stone—Cause of the decline of the
+Turkish power—Wives chosen for their looks—How to breed
+a good foal—A Turk's opinion of European women—They
+uncover their faces—What ridiculous creatures they must
+be—The Citadel—The Persians—The Greek fire—The
+view of Divriki—Sport—A rifle used as a shot gun—One
+of your best shots—The Kurds—Gunpowder—It is manufactured
+by the Kurds—Powder sent from Constantinople—Cost
+to the Government of cartridges—The Pacha of
+Sivas—His astrologer—Christians who are usurers—Turkish
+families ruined.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The baggage-horse was very little the worse for
+his long march of ten hours on the previous day.
+Yarbasan was not a lively place to stop at, I
+determined to push on to Divriki.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_334' name='Page_334' href='#Page_334'>334</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We passed a range of hills—red-coloured stones
+lying in profusion along the track—and, descending
+a deep incline, arrived on the banks of the river
+Dumrudja (Kumer Su), a rapid stream, here about
+fifty yards wide. A quantity of wood was floating
+on the waters. This had been cut in the pine-forests
+higher up the channel, and afterwards been
+tossed into the river to find its way to Divriki.
+There was no bridge over the stream, the water
+being more than four feet deep. A consultation
+took place amongst the Zaptiehs.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What are they talking about?" I inquired of
+Mohammed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Effendi, they say that if any one of our horses
+were to stumble, it would be a bad thing for the
+rider. There is a waterfall a few hundred yards
+down the stream."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The large pieces of timber which were whirling
+round and round in the middle of the river were
+also a source of anxiety, for should any of these
+huge beams strike a horse, the animal would have
+been swept off his legs for a certainty. After a
+minute or two spent in consideration, the Zaptiehs
+determined to cross the river, every horseman
+riding abreast of his companion. The stream
+would then press against the outside horse; he,
+however, would be supported by the one alongside
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_335' name='Page_335' href='#Page_335'>335</a></span>
+him; each animal, in turn, being assisted by the
+other quadrupeds of the party.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was as much as our horses could do to reach
+the opposite bank. After several thanksgivings
+to the all-merciful Allah, we once more began to
+climb into the clouds. A dense mist prevailed.
+Presently almost everything was hidden from our
+view. The snow became deeper and more binding;
+at last the pack-horses came to a standstill.
+Unloading the baggage-animals, we distributed
+the luggage amidst the saddle-horses, and, wading
+onward, continued our march through the snow.
+This in some places was nearly breast high.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On the summit of the mountain stood a little
+house built of rocks, which were loosely piled the
+one upon the other; and, resting here for a minute
+or so to recover our breath, I was informed
+that it had been erected by a charitable Turk in
+Divriki, as a shelter for benighted travellers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Blessings on his head!" said the Zaptieh
+who gave me the information. "This shelter has
+saved several lives already. If we had arrived
+here two hours later, it might have been the
+means of saving our own. The wind is rising,"
+he continued, "and the sooner we reach Divriki
+the better."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Presently the little town appears in sight; a
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_336' name='Page_336' href='#Page_336'>336</a></span>
+thin skirt of poplar-trees encircles it as in a frame.
+An old ruined citadel, perched up on a seemingly
+inaccessible rock, faces us from the opposite
+side of Divriki. A tower on a still higher peak,
+but communicating by a hidden path with the
+citadel, serves as a place of refuge for the
+garrison, should the first-mentioned stronghold
+ever be taken by assault. A rapid stream—the
+Tchalt Tchai—runs below the citadel. The town
+is said to contain about 3400 houses, of which
+3000 belong to Turks, and the remainder to
+Armenians.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Behind the houses and in the distance were fresh
+layers of snow-covered mountains: the valley in
+which the town lies had not felt the onslaught of
+winter; it was still covered with deep mud.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One of the Zaptiehs galloped forward with
+a letter to the governor from the Pacha at Sivas.
+Presently the official rode out to meet me. He was
+accompanied by an escort of gendarmes under the
+command of a captain. The latter, who was
+mounted upon a spirited little Arab, caracoled
+his steed to and fro—now bending over the saddle
+and trying to touch the ground with his hand—then
+going through all the motions of throwing
+the Djerrid—evidently wishing to astonish the
+weak nerves of the newly-arrived giaours.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_337' name='Page_337' href='#Page_337'>337</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Lor! what a cropper!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This remark from my English servant disturbed
+me in a conversation with the governor. On
+looking round, I saw the captain rolling in the
+mud. His saddle had turned—hence the fall.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Serve him right, sir!" remarked Radford,
+catching my eye. "He was a spurring his horse
+that cruel; now pulling him up short on his
+withers, and then loosing him off like an express
+train. He was trying to show us how he could
+touch the ground. I believe, sir, the fellow
+thinks that we know nothing about riding, and
+that is why he wanted to do a Astley's performance
+out here in Hasia!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Caimacan led the way to a large house,
+belonging to a Turkish gentleman, a personal
+friend of the Pacha of Sivas. My host received
+me very courteously. He was under the impression
+that I had come to Divriki on some
+business connected with mines, and seemed surprised
+when he was informed that nothing but a
+wish to see the country had induced me to ride
+through Anatolia.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There are mines in the neighbourhood," said
+the Turk, "and, according to tradition, some very
+rich ones. They were worked several hundred
+years ago—that is, when people lived who had
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_338' name='Page_338' href='#Page_338'>338</a></span>
+brains—but now, alas! every man's head is like
+a blown-out calf's skin. The people do not know
+how to get at the treasures which lie hid beneath
+the ground, and, even if they did, would be too
+idle to do so."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I observed that, judging from the ruins about
+Divriki, all the houses must formerly have been
+built of hewn stone.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," said my host sorrowfully, "our ancestors
+were wise men. They lived in stone houses,
+we are satisfied with buildings made of dried
+mud. What do you build your houses of in
+England?" he inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Of bricks made of clay burnt in a fire."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, said the Turk, "you English have
+advanced. You know more than your grandfathers.
+Why have we not done the same?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Probably because you keep your women shut
+up in a harem, and do not educate them," I
+replied. "Turkish mothers are very ignorant,
+and, consequently, cannot instruct their children.
+The result is that your sons are only half educated.
+Besides this, you choose your wives—at least I
+am told so—for their looks, and without any
+regard to their attainments."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Inglis is quite right," said an old Turk,
+a friend of my host. "If I want to breed a good
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_339' name='Page_339' href='#Page_339'>339</a></span>
+foal, I am as particular about the mare as the
+sire. He means that we leave the mares out of
+the question, and then complain that our stock
+is not so good as that of other nations."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But hundreds of years ago our women knew
+quite as much as the Frank women," observed my
+host.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," replied his companion, "and then we
+could hold our own against the Franks. But the
+Frank women have been educated since those
+times; the Effendi thinks that we ought to
+educate our wives in the same way."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It would be difficult to do so," said the Turk
+coldly. "Their women uncover their faces; I
+have heard that some of them declare that they are
+the equals of their husbands. What ridiculous
+creatures they must be," he continued, "not at
+once to accept that inferior position which Allah
+in His wisdom has awarded to them!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The following day I walked to the citadel,
+accompanied by my host. The building had been
+erected 600 years ago, as a defence against the
+Persians, who at that time frequently made encroachments
+into this part of Turkey. The solid
+masonry, which in many places had been allowed
+to go to ruin, showed that the walls had been
+originally built with great care. Two thousand
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_340' name='Page_340' href='#Page_340'>340</a></span>
+men could have been quartered in the citadel,
+which now, uninhabited save by dogs and lizards,
+is rapidly succumbing to the elements. Convenient
+embrasures had been left on that side
+of the rampart which was easiest to assault;
+through them the defenders could pour down the
+celebrated Greek fire so much used in the middle
+ages.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The river, which ran below the citadel, separated
+us from the tower which was used as a final place
+of retreat should the citadel be stormed. On my
+asking how the garrison could cross the water,
+there being no bridge in the vicinity, I was
+informed that a subterranean passage led beneath
+the stream to the other bank, and, then entering
+the side of the rock, a winding staircase gave
+access to the tower. The defenders were thus
+able to retreat from the citadel without their
+movements being seen by the enemy.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was a glorious afternoon. The view of
+Divriki, of its numerous minarets and domes,
+lying as it were in miniature below us, was very
+lovely. Lofty mountains, in winter garb, surrounded
+the suburbs on every side; and the
+silvery river, threading its way through the more
+distant quarters of the town, bubbled and splashed
+against the rocks and boulders. The murmur
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_341' name='Page_341' href='#Page_341'>341</a></span>
+of the waters was blended with the hum of the
+population. The cries of the herdsmen mingled
+ever and anon with the report of a fire-arm in the
+distance.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Is there much game in the neighbourhood?"
+I inquired of my companion, who, leaning against
+one of the battlements in the tower, was straining
+his eyes in the direction of the shot.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No. A few wild goats are sometimes to be
+seen on the rocks. The sportsman, whoever he
+is, has probably managed to come upon some
+of them unawares. I have a beautiful gun," he
+continued; "I will show it you afterwards."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Is it for partridges or for big game?" I asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"For big game. It is rifled," he replied, "but
+I often load it with shot, and shoot at partridges,
+that is when they are all huddled together on the
+ground. Do you shoot much in your country
+with ball?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes; there is a great meeting once a year
+near London. All the best marksmen attend, and
+the Queen gives a prize to the best shot."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Does she give many paras?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"A great many—several hundred liras."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Now could one of your best shots hit that
+cow?" pointing to an animal about 400 yards
+distant.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_342' name='Page_342' href='#Page_342'>342</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What a marvel!" said the Turk. "Even the
+Kurds could not do that, and they shoot very
+well. They manufacture their own powder," he
+continued, "and very good powder it is too. The
+powder sold by the permission of our Government
+is very bad and dear; besides that, a man is
+only permitted to purchase a very small quantity
+at a time. There is plenty of sulphur, saltpetre,
+and charcoal in the mountains, and the Kurds
+supply themselves."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I afterwards learnt that all the powder which
+is furnished to the troops in Asia Minor is sent
+from Constantinople. There is no gunpowder
+manufactory in this part of Asia Minor. It is a
+great pity that the Turks have not long ago
+started an arsenal in the neighbourhood of
+Erzingan, which could have supplied the troops
+on the Turko-Russian frontier with cartridges
+and small-arms. As it is, every cartridge
+served out to a soldier before Kars costs the
+Government fifty per cent in addition to its
+original cost, owing to the difficulties of transport.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Pacha at Sivas wrote to me to make
+your stay at Divriki as pleasant as I could,"
+presently remarked my companion.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_343' name='Page_343' href='#Page_343'>343</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How did you like him?" observed an Armenian
+who now joined us.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Very much."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He is civil to all Europeans," continued the
+Armenian. "Probably he took a fancy to you
+because his astrologer had worked out your
+horoscope, and had reported favourably upon it."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You do not mean to say that the Pacha
+believes in such things?" I observed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes; he never makes a journey without first
+of all consulting his astrologer."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There was no very active trade in Divriki.
+The Armenians supplied the people of the town
+with the few goods which they might require at
+exorbitant prices.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In addition to this, most of the Christians were
+usurers. Any Mohammedan who chanced to
+require a loan had to pay his Armenian fellow-citizen
+a very high rate of interest. However, in
+this respect, Divriki is not an exception to the
+towns in Anatolia, and in almost every district
+which I visited I found that the leading Christians
+in the community had made their money by
+usurious dealings. In some instances, old Turkish
+families had been entirely ruined, their descendants
+were lying in gaol at the suit of Armenian money-lenders.
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_344' name='Page_344' href='#Page_344'>344</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+CHAPTER XXXII.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ch_summ">
+Usury laws in Turkey—An Armenian in prison for debt—The
+Caimacan—The Turkish creditor—Hanistan Ereek's father—A
+Government cannot be imprisoned for debt—The redif
+soldiers—Their unwillingness to serve—The Armenians
+not to be trusted—Yanoot—A picture of desolation—A
+Jordan road—Turkish soldiers do not grumble—Arabkir—A
+silk-merchant—My host—His library—Pretty covers—A
+Russian servant—He was taken prisoner during the
+Crimean war.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was now to learn that the usury laws in Turkey
+are also used against the Christians. On returning
+to my house, a servant informed me that an
+Armenian was downstairs, and wished to see me.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He had been in Paris, and could speak a little
+French. This he so interlarded with Turkish
+that it was rather difficult to follow him. The
+man's name was Hanistan Ereek. At length I
+discovered that, twelve years ago, his father
+had borrowed 300 piastres from a Turk. Soon
+afterwards the father died, and the son, leaving
+Divriki without paying the debt, had gone to
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_345' name='Page_345' href='#Page_345'>345</a></span>
+Europe. On his return, the creditor had him
+arrested for the sum of 6000 piastres. This
+Hanistan Ereek refused to pay; he had been imprisoned
+for three months in consequence.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Caimacan was in the room at the time the
+man made his complaint.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It seems a hard case," I remarked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is our law," was the reply; "if he had
+been a Turk, the same thing would have happened."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, it would not have happened! 300 piastres
+could never have amounted to 6000 piastres!"
+cried the Armenian indignantly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It appeared that the case was one of hard swearing.
+The Turkish creditor had produced a piece
+of paper, on which was written that he had lent
+a larger amount than 300 piastres to Hanistan
+Ereek's father—the document in question bearing
+the latter's signature. This the son swore was a
+forgery. However, the Turk had been believed,
+and the Armenian had been sent to prison.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What would have been done if this case had
+happened in your country?" asked the Caimacan;
+"would you not have put the man in prison for
+debt?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No; a son is not liable for his father's
+debts."
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_346' name='Page_346' href='#Page_346'>346</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, each country has its own laws, which
+doubtless are good for the respective inhabitants,"
+observed the governor; "but if my father had
+died owing a sum of money, I should have thought
+that it was my duty to pay it."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"A very proper resolution," I remarked; "but
+supposing that a Government has contracted a
+debt, do you not think that its successors are
+bound to pay the interest of the loan?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Caimacan stroked his beard and looked at
+the Cadi, who presently answered,—
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We could not put a Government in prison."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No," I observed, "but your nation owes my
+nation more than a hundred millions of liras, and
+not only you do not pay us any interest, but you
+have even proposed to repudiate the debt altogether!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How can we pay?" said the Cadi; "we have
+no gold, only caime, and your people will not take
+that. When the Russians leave us alone, then
+we shall be able to pay."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"And in the meantime I suppose I am to go
+back to prison?" said the Armenian.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We shall see," said the Caimacan gravely;
+"the law must be carried out."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have, perhaps, given the above case more
+prominence than it deserves, but I have done so
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_347' name='Page_347' href='#Page_347'>347</a></span>
+because in this instance the governor of Divriki
+and a Christian were confronted in my presence,
+and the Armenian made his complaint without
+the slightest hesitation or fear. Now if the
+Christians had been so ill-treated as some of
+their co-religionists would have had me believe
+Hanistan Ereek would not have been likely to have
+dared to come forward and find fault with the
+Cadi of his town, who had adjudicated upon the
+matter.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+According to the governor, the people in his
+district had not shown much readiness to go to
+the war. In some of the villages, the redif
+soldiery were very reluctant to leave their homes,
+and could only be made to do so by the Zaptiehs
+of the province, who were most of them engaged
+at present in this duty.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why do you not give the Armenians arms?"
+I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"They would turn them against us, and join the
+Russians," was the governor's reply. "In some
+districts which are very near Russia, and where
+the Armenians have the opportunity of seeing the
+Russians as they are, and not as they pretend to
+be, the Christians prefer being under the Turkish
+rule; but the Armenians in our central provinces
+are constantly being tampered with by Russian
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_348' name='Page_348' href='#Page_348'>348</a></span>
+agents. If we were to give the Christians arms,
+Allah only knows what would take place!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I left Divriki at daybreak the following morning,
+and continued the march towards Arabkir.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We ascended once more into the clouds, and,
+after a four hours' ride, halted to bait our horses
+at the village of Yanoot—if, indeed, it deserves
+the name of village—for it consists of a few huts,
+and about twenty-five inhabitants make up the
+entire population.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now a curious phenomenon presented itself before
+us. We were passing a chain of hills which
+traversed our track from north to south. The
+northern side of every height was covered with
+deep snow, on the southern declivities some
+igneous rocks were exposed to view and glared in
+the sun. Here the rays were so fierce that not
+only there was no snow, but the weather became
+oppressively warm. A few hundred yards further,
+and winter attacked us again in all its rigour.
+Our horses were tried to their utmost in forcing a
+way before them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The road became very rugged. An immense
+quantity of loose sharp pebbles were lying on
+the track. Our horses could not see them and
+were constantly falling on their knees. Not a
+village or solitary house was met with during
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_349' name='Page_349' href='#Page_349'>349</a></span>
+our march. It was a picture of desolation. A
+few magpies, which from time to time flew mournfully
+across the path, were the only living things
+besides ourselves.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, sir, this is a Jordan of a road," remarked
+my servant Radford, referring to some
+popular song, as the horse he rode fell down
+for the fifth time that morning. "That cemetery
+in Constantinople, where we tried the
+'osses, was a bad place for riding, but it was
+nothing to this. Mohammed, he don't seem to
+take any account of it whatever. I never see
+such fellows as these Turks; they don't seem to
+be able to muster a grumble amongst them, no
+matter what they may have to undergo! Why,
+sir, some of them soldiers as we saw at Sivas
+had not received a day's pay for twenty-five
+months, and they seemed quite content and happy
+like; whilst, as for rations, it is true that the
+men fill themselves to bursting when they have
+the chance, but when they have to go without
+their grub they don't grumble! I wonder, sir,
+what our soldiers at Aldershot would say if they
+had not received a ha'p'orth of pay for two years,
+and had to march sometimes from morning to
+night, with nothing inside them save a whiff or
+so of tobacco?"
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_350' name='Page_350' href='#Page_350'>350</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Radford was right in his remark about the
+track being a Jordan road—that is, if a Jordan
+road is the quintessence of everything that is
+stony and disagreeable. We had to lead our
+horses. Hour after hour sped by; we still
+seemed to be no nearer to any signs of Arabkir.
+Now we were up to our waists in snow and
+quagmire, and then we were lying between our
+horses' heels, the result of a slip from some half-hidden
+boulder.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At last we arrived at a spot close to the town.
+Here the rocks were of a crimson hue, their
+sides were covered with pebbles of ebon blackness.
+We mounted our horses, and, riding along
+a precipice-bounded path which leads into the
+long straggling city, presently halted at the house
+of an Armenian gentleman, who was kind enough
+to offer us a lodging for the night.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+My host was a silk-merchant. He had started
+in business a very few years previous. This district
+being suitable for breeding silk-worms, he
+had speedily amassed a fortune. He was now one
+of the wealthiest men in the province, and not only
+supplied the Arabkir district with textures of his
+manufacture, but sent them by caravans to the
+limits of Asia Minor. He was very much
+respected by the Mohammedans in the town,
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_351' name='Page_351' href='#Page_351'>351</a></span>
+and was on the best of terms with the Caimacan.
+The latter, when he heard of my arrival, called,
+and, after salaaming my host, told him that he
+should stay to dinner.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The apartment set aside for my use was hung
+round with engravings of all the sovereigns in
+Europe. A book-shelf in one corner was filled
+with French books, none of which my host could
+read.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Do you know French?" I inquired.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Then what is the good of those volumes to
+you?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I am sorry for my ignorance," replied the man,
+"but I mean to have my child sent to Constantinople;
+there he shall learn French, and afterwards
+he will be able to read to me what is inside these
+books. Pretty covers, are they not?" he continued,
+pointing to the binding. "I bought them when I
+was residing at Erzeroum, and the merchant told
+me that they were full of wisdom. I have a
+European servant," he added.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"A Frenchman?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, a Russian."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"A Russian!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes. You may well be surprised," he said, "for
+there is not much love lost between the Russians
+<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_352' name='Page_352' href='#Page_352'>352</a></span>
+and ourselves. This man was taken prisoner
+during the Crimean war. When it was over he
+preferred remaining with us to returning to his
+own country."
+</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+END OF VOL. I.
+</p>
+
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>
+<a name="Errata" id="Errata"></a>ERRATA.
+<br />
+VOL. I.
+</h2>
+
+<ul class="idx">
+<li>
+Page 24, last line, <i>for</i> Appendix A. <i>read</i> Appendix A. (I., II., III.), vol. ii.
+        pp. 323-329.</li>
+
+<li>  Page  27, line 8, <i>for</i> Kara Bourna <i>read</i> Kara Bournu.</li>
+
+<li>  Page  31, line 11, <i>for</i> Kara Bourna <i>read</i> Kara Bournu.</li>
+
+<li>  Page  33, last line, <i>for</i> Appendix B. <i>read</i> Appendix B. (XVI., XVII.), vol.
+        ii. pp. 388-399.</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<div class='footnotes'>
+<h2 class="fntitle">
+FOOTNOTES
+</h2>
+
+<p class='footnote' id='FN_1'>
+<span class='fnlabel'><a href='#FA_1'>[1]</a></span> Buckinghamshire.
+</p>
+
+<p class='footnote' id='FN_2'>
+<span class='fnlabel'><a href='#FA_2'>[2]</a></span> <i>Vide</i> Correspondence of the late Duke of Wellington, letter
+to the Earl of Aberdeen, <i>dated</i> Walmer Castle, July 29th,
+1829.
+</p>
+
+<p class='footnote' id='FN_3'>
+<span class='fnlabel'><a href='#FA_3'>[3]</a></span> Probably referring to the treatment of the people professing
+the United Greek faith. See <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/58738/58738-h/58738-h.htm#App_1">Appendix A. (I., II., III.), vol. ii.
+    pp. 323-329.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p class='footnote' id='FN_4'>
+<span class='fnlabel'><a href='#FA_4'>[4]</a></span> See <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/58738/58738-h/58738-h.htm#App_16">Appendix B. (XVI., XVII.), vol.
+        ii. pp. 388-399</a>, on the defence of Constantinople.
+</p>
+
+<p class='footnote' id='FN_5'>
+<span class='fnlabel'><a href='#FA_5'>[5]</a></span> These statements of the Pacha are confirmed to some
+extent by two Official Reports.—<i>See</i> <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/58738/58738-h/58738-h.htm#App_4">Appendices IV. and V.
+vol. ii. pp. 337</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/58738/58738-h/58738-h.htm#Page_344">344</a>.
+</p>
+
+<p class='footnote' id='FN_6'>
+<span class='fnlabel'><a href='#FA_6'>[6]</a></span> For routes which cross the Sakaria, and traverse Asia
+Minor, see <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/58738/58738-h/58738-h.htm#App_14">Appendix XIV. vol. ii. pp. 368</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/58738/58738-h/58738-h.htm#Page_370">370</a>.
+</p>
+
+<p class='footnote' id='FN_7'>
+<span class='fnlabel'><a href='#FA_7'>[7]</a></span> Opinions are divided about this: some people assuring me
+that it happened at Ayash, others at Istanos.
+</p>
+
+<p class='footnote' id='FN_8'>
+<span class='fnlabel'><a href='#FA_8'>[8]</a></span> For military importance of this district, see <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/58738/58738-h/58738-h.htm#App_14">Appendix XIV.
+vol. ii. p. 370</a>.
+</p>
+
+<p class='footnote' id='FN_9'>
+<span class='fnlabel'><a href='#FA_9'>[9]</a></span> This is refuted by an Official despatch recently received
+from H.M.'s Ambassador at Constantinople, see <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/58738/58738-h/58738-h.htm#App_4">Appendix IV.
+vol. ii. p. 342</a>.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class='footnote' id='FN_11'>
+<span class='fnlabel'><a href='#FA_11'>[11]</a></span> This is authenticated to a great extent by an Official
+Despatch. See <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/58738/58738-h/58738-h.htm#App_5">Appendix V. vol. ii. p. 344</a>.
+</p>
+
+<p class='footnote' id='FN_12'>
+<span class='fnlabel'><a href='#FA_12'>[12]</a></span> The Armenian women have more liberty in Angora than in
+many other towns in Asia Minor.
+</p>
+
+<p class='footnote' id='FN_13'>
+<span class='fnlabel'><a href='#FA_13'>[13]</a></span> For treatment of the Turkomans by the Russian soldiers,
+I refer the reader to Mr. Schuyler's highly interesting work,
+"Turkistan."
+</p>
+
+<p class='footnote' id='FN_14'>
+<span class='fnlabel'><a href='#FA_14'>[14]</a></span> For importance of Yuzgat from a military point of view,
+see <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/58738/58738-h/58738-h.htm#App_14">Appendix XIV. vol. ii. p. 370</a>.
+</p>
+
+<p class='footnote' id='FN_15'>
+<span class='fnlabel'><a href='#FA_15'>[15]</a></span> Whilst writing these lines I have come across some verses
+written by a Bishop who calls himself a Christian, and an
+answer to them by an American writer. The Bishop seems
+to have forgotten that his mission is one of peace. His
+verses will be found in <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/58738/58738-h/58738-h.htm#App_11">Appendix XI. vol. ii. pp. 361</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/58738/58738-h/58738-h.htm#Page_362">362</a>.
+</p>
+
+<p class='footnote' id='FN_16'>
+<span class='fnlabel'><a href='#FA_16'>[16]</a></span> This statement, coming from a Circassian, may be deemed
+by some people in England, like the Right Hon. Robert Lowe,
+M.P., who believe that Russia is the protector of the unprotected,
+and the refuge of those who have no other refuge, as
+hardly worthy of credence. Unfortunately for humanity it is
+confirmed, so far as the massacre of pregnant women and of
+children is concerned, by the official report of a British Consul.
+See <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/58738/58738-h/58738-h.htm#App_7">Appendix VII. vol. ii. p. 349</a>.
+</p>
+
+<p class='footnote' id='FN_17'>
+<span class='fnlabel'><a href='#FA_17'>[17]</a></span> For statement made by Circassians on this subject, see
+<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/58738/58738-h/58738-h.htm#App_10">Appendix X. vol. ii. p. 353</a>.
+</p>
+
+<p class='footnote' id='FN_18'>
+<span class='fnlabel'><a href='#FA_18'>[18]</a></span> I wrote this anecdote down at the time. It is given precisely
+as the Armenian narrated the story. I have not been able
+to find a corroboration of the statement in any historical document.
+Very little is known of what took place during this war.
+</p>
+</div>
+
+</div> <!-- /chapter -->
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of On Horseback Through Asia Minor,
+Volume 1 of 2, by Fred Burnaby
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+</pre>
+
+</body>
+</html>
+
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author	nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org>	2025-02-08 22:10:35 -0800
committer	nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org>	2025-02-08 22:10:35 -0800
commit	654962e5933b18b414f5c79433e76facc94db628 (patch)
tree	c7b363f17cf98f62315c7485fb3145f68ce4a47e