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diff --git a/58175-0.txt b/58175-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..40b3ea1 --- /dev/null +++ b/58175-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,13134 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 58175 *** + + + + + + + + + + + +[Illustration: Book Cover] + + + + +[Illustration] + + + + +THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE FAR EAST + +_PART SECOND_ + + * * * * * + +ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY + +TO + +SIAM AND JAVA + +WITH DESCRIPTIONS OF COCHIN-CHINA, CAMBODIA, SUMATRA AND THE MALAY +ARCHIPELAGO + +BY + +THOMAS W. KNOX + +AUTHOR OF "CAMP-FIRE AND COTTON-FIELD" "OVERLAND THROUGH ASIA" +"UNDERGROUND" "JOHN" ETC. + +Illustrated + +NEW YORK + +HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE + +1882 + + + + +Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1880, by + +HARPER & BROTHERS, + +In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. + + + + +PREFACE + + +The favorable reception accorded to "The Boy Travellers in Japan and +China" has led to the preparation of the present book. + +Frank and Fred have continued their journey under the guidance of Doctor +Bronson, and the plan of their travels and observation is identical with +the one they followed through the Celestial Empire and the Land of the +Mikado. The incidents in the narrative were mainly the experiences of +the author at a recent date; and the descriptions of countries, cities, +temples, people, manners, and customs are nearly all from his personal +observations and notes. He has endeavored to give a faithful account of +Siam, Java, and the adjacent countries as they appear to-day, and trusts +that the only fiction of the book is in the names of the individuals who +tell the story. + +In a few instances the narrative has been slightly interrupted, in order +to introduce matters of general interest to young readers. The details +of the progress of naval architecture and the accounts of submarine +operations, together with the wonderful adventures of Marco Polo, may be +classed as digressions. It is hoped they will meet the same welcome that +was accorded to the episode of a whaling voyage in the first record of +the travels of Frank and Fred. + +The publishers have kindly allowed the use of some illustrations that +have already appeared in their publications relative to the Far East, in +addition to those specially prepared for this volume. The author has +consulted the works of previous travellers in the East to supplement his +own information, and to some of them he is under obligations. Especially +is he indebted to Mr. Frank Vincent, Jr., author of that excellent and +well-known book, "The Land of the White Elephant," not only for details +respecting Cambodia and adjacent regions, but for some of the admirable +engravings that adorn his volume. Other authorities are credited with +the text of their work or in foot-notes to the pages where quotations +are made. + +The author is not aware that any book describing Siam, Java, Cochin +China, Cambodia, and the Malay Archipelago, and especially addressed to +the young, has yet appeared. Consequently he hopes that this volume will +meet with as warm a welcome as was given to "The Boy Travellers in Japan +and China," by adult as well as juvenile members of many families +throughout the United States. + + T. W. K. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + CHAPTER I. PAGE + + DEPARTURE FROM HONG-KONG. 13 + + CHAPTER II. + + VOYAGE TO SAIGON.--ARRIVAL IN COCHIN CHINA. 23 + + CHAPTER III. + + HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE.--FIRST SIGHTS AND SCENES IN ANAM. 34 + + CHAPTER IV. + + A WONDERFUL TEMPLE.--RUINS OF NAGKON WAT AND ANGKOR. 47 + + CHAPTER V. + + CAMBODIA.--ITS CAPITAL AND KING. 61 + + CHAPTER VI. + + DEPARTURE FROM SAIGON.--VISITING A CHINESE JUNK. 73 + + CHAPTER VII. + + THE WONDERFUL STORY OF MARCO POLO. 86 + + CHAPTER VIII. + + ARRIVAL IN SIAM.--FIRST DAY IN BANGKOK. 106 + + CHAPTER IX. + + TEMPLES AT BANGKOK.--THE FOUNDER OF BUDDHISM. 119 + + CHAPTER X. + + ASCENDING THE MENAM, FROM BANGKOK TO AYUTHIA. 131 + + CHAPTER XI. + + VISITING THE PRINCE OF THE ELEPHANTS.--AYUTHIA.--SOMETHING ABOUT + CROCODILES. 143 + + CHAPTER XII. + + STORIES OF ELEPHANT-HUNTING.--SCENES OF THE CHASE. 161 + + CHAPTER XIII. + + BANG-PA-IN TO BANGKOK.--STUDIES IN NATURAL HISTORY AND BOTANY. 177 + + CHAPTER XIV. + + THE KING IN HIS STATE BARGE.--BETEL AND TOBACCO. 190 + + CHAPTER XV. + + WOMEN, HAIR-CUTTING, AND SLAVERY. 202 + + CHAPTER XVI. + + CREMATION IN SIAM.--TRADE, TAXES, AND BIRDS. 215 + + CHAPTER XVII. + + PRESENTATION TO THE KING.--DINNER AT THE PALACE. 228 + + CHAPTER XVIII. + + THE WHITE ELEPHANT.--VISIT TO THE SECOND KING OF SIAM. 237 + + CHAPTER XIX. + + LEAVING SIAM.--LIFE UNDER THE OCEAN WAVE. 249 + + CHAPTER XX. + + LIGHT UNDER WATER.--PEARL-FISHING AND TURTLE-HUNTING. 262 + + CHAPTER XXI. + + INCIDENTS OF A SEA-VOYAGE.--SINGAPORE. 280 + + CHAPTER XXII. + + SIGHTS AND SCENES IN SINGAPORE. 294 + + CHAPTER XXIII. + + CROSSING THE EQUATOR.--ADVENTURE WITH MALAY PIRATES. 311 + + CHAPTER XXIV. + + SUMATRA AND ITS PECULIARITIES.--SNAKES AND ORANG-OUTANGS. 326 + + CHAPTER XXV. + + ARRIVAL IN JAVA.--SIGHTS AND SCENES IN BATAVIA. 343 + + CHAPTER XXVI. + + BATAVIA TO BUITENZORG.--TROPICAL SCENES.--BIRDS OF PARADISE. 358 + + CHAPTER XXVII. + + A CHAPTER ON POLITICAL ECONOMY.--THE DUTCH CULTURE SYSTEM IN JAVA. 374 + + CHAPTER XXVIII. + + RICE CULTURE IN JAVA.--MILITARY AND SOCIAL MATTERS. 387 + + CHAPTER XXIX. + + A POST RIDE IN JAVA.--FROM BUITENZORG TO BANDONG. 400 + + CHAPTER XXX. + + VISITING A TEA PLANTATION.--PREPARATION OF TEA. 411 + + CHAPTER XXXI. + + EASTERN JAVA, LOMBOCK, TIMOR, AND THE ARU ISLANDS. 422 + + CHAPTER XXXII. + + WANDERINGS IN THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO.--GOOD-BYE. 435 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + + Scene on the Headwaters of the Menam River _Frontispiece_ + Map _To face page_ 13 + PAGE + Hong kong, from Kellet's Island 13 + Mary and Effie reading Frank's Letter 15 + Arrival of the French Mail Steamer 18 + Private Parlor of the "Yuen Fat Hong" 20 + A Chinese Boatwoman 21 + Frank's Dream 22 + Hurricane during the Change of the Monsoon 23 + A favoring Monsoon 24 + Running before the Trade-wind 25 + Rice-fields on the Mekong 28 + A Native Woman 30 + Street in the Chinese Quarter 31 + Plants in the Botanical Garden 32 + A New Acquaintance 33 + A Mosquito of Saigon 33 + Native Gentleman at Saigon 35 + View of the French Quarter of Saigon 37 + Native Soldiers at Saigon 39 + The King of the Beggars 41 + View of Cholon 43 + A Chinese Family at Cholon 44 + A Cab for Two 45 + Cambodian Female Head-dress. Ancient Sculpture 47 + Plan of the Temple at Nagkon 49 + Unfinished Pillars 50 + Columns in the Temple 51 + Sculptures on the Walls of Nagkon Wat 52 + View from the Central Tower of the Temple 54 + Gallery of Sculptures 56 + Ancient Tower overgrown with Poh-trees 58 + Huts of the Priests 59 + Stone with Ancient Sculptures 60 + A Cambodian Idol 61 + Fishing-village on Lake Thalysap 62 + Panompin, the Capital of Cambodia 64 + Specimen of Cambodian Gold-work 66 + The King of Cambodia 67 + Queen of Cambodia and Royal Children 69 + The Harbor of Oodong, Cambodia 70 + A Girl of Oodong 71 + House in the Suburbs 72 + A Chinese Junk 74 + Outline of Modern Ship, showing Compartments 76 + A Junk Sailor at Breakfast 77 + Chinese River Boat 78 + Ship of the Fourteenth Century 79 + "The Great Harry" 80 + The "Tennessee" 81 + The Public Highway of the Future 82 + The Bomb Ferry 83 + Moonlight at Sea in the Tropics 84 + A Story of the Sea 85 + Marco Polo 87 + The Great Khan delivering a Tablet to the Elder Polo Brothers. + From a Miniature of the Fourteenth Century 88 + Arms of the Polo Family 88 + Nicolo Polo. Father of Marco 89 + Portrait of Kublai-Khan. From a Chinese Engraving 91 + Marco Polo's Galley in Battle 93 + Alan shuts up the Caliph of Baudas in his Treasure-tower 96 + Dog-headed Men of Angamanain 97 + Mediæval Tartar Huts and Wagons 99 + The Roc, from a Persian Drawing 100 + Roc's Egg, now in the British Museum. 100 + Chinese Bank-note of the Ming Dynasty 101 + Chinese Conjuring Extraordinary 103 + Captain Clanchy at Work 104 + Come to Dinner! 105 + A Natural Shower-bath 106 + Flying-fish 107 + View near Paknam 108 + Native Hut on the Menam River 110 + A Village Pathway in Siam 111 + Chinese Field-laborers 112 + General View of Bangkok 114 + House in the Foreign Part of Bangkok 115 + A Siamese Priest 118 + Bird's-eye View of Bangkok 120 + Temple of Wat Chang 121 + Temple of the Sleeping Idol 123 + Brass Idol in a Temple 124 + Priests Playing Chess 126 + Gate-way of a Temple at Bangkok 128 + Temple of the Emerald Idol 129 + Private Garden near Bangkok 133 + A Siamese Forest Scene 135 + Parasite and Palm 138 + The Bamboo-tree 139 + The Boat they narrowly Missed 140 + Scene at Bang-pa-in 141 + A River Scene 142 + The Young Prince 144 + Portrait of "Chang" 145 + Macedonian Coin, with Ancient Goad 146 + Modern Goad 146 + A War Elephant 147 + Near the Palace 149 + In the Ruined City 150 + Crocodiles at Home 152 + Taking a Bite 153 + The Doctor's Crack Shot 154 + The Trochilus 155 + Alligator and Crane 155 + Trochilus and Crocodile 156 + The Alligator and the Bear 158 + Just Hatched 159 + Coming out to Sun himself 160 + An Elephant Fence 161 + Form of a Corral 161 + Beginning the Drive 162 + Driving into the Corral 163 + Securing the Captives 165 + Siribeddi's Prize 166 + The Prisoners tied up 168 + A little Head Work 169 + In a Heap of Trouble 170 + Refusing to Move on 171 + Sliding down hill 173 + Elephant-hunting on Foot 174 + The Hunter Hunted 175 + Taking a Nap 176 + Cocoa-nuts Full Grown and just Forming 178 + The Bread-fruit 179 + Pineapple 180 + Star-apple 180 + A New Kind of Fruit 181 + Tailor-bird and Nest 182 + A Climbing-fish 183 + The Snake and the Squirrel 185 + Monkeys at Home 187 + Monkeys 188 + Eagle capturing a Monkey 189 + State Barge of the King of Siam 191 + A Body of the Royal Guards 192 + The King visiting a Temple 194 + The Front of the Temple 195 + The Tobacco-plant 197 + Sir Walter Raleigh and his Pipe 197 + Pipes of all Nations 199 + Young America 200 + The East 201 + The West 201 + Siamese Gentleman and Lady 203 + A Young Prince of the Royal House, with his Attendant 205 + Female Head-dress and Costume 206 + Minister of Foreign Affairs 207 + Lakon Girls 209 + A Native Band of Music 210 + A Siamese Theatrical Performance 211 + Scene on a Small Canal near Bangkok 216 + Burial-mounds 217 + Urn containing Ashes 217 + Jessamine Flowers 218 + Buddhist Priest 219 + Characters in the Procession 220 + Haunts of Sea-birds on the Coast 223 + Edible Swallows' Nests 224 + Siamese Water Birds 225 + Pheasant and Young 227 + Court-yard of the Royal Palace at Bangkok 229 + Chulalonkorn I., Supreme King of Siam 231 + Prime-minister of Siam 233 + The King of Siam in his State Robes 234 + A Younger Brother of the King 235 + The Hour-glass 236 + A White Elephant worshipping the Sun and Moon. From a Chinese + Drawing 237 + White Monkey in Elephant Stables 240 + How an Elephant Feeds 241 + Elephants' Trunks 242 + Elephants Drinking 243 + Fred's Tormentor 244 + The Second King of Siam, in State Robes 247 + The Doctor getting Ready 249 + Coast of Siam, near the Mouth of the River 251 + Water-fowl of Siam 252 + A Wreck among the Breakers 253 + Pearl Fisher attacked by a Shark 253 + Nests of the Water-spider 254 + Divers in their Armor 255 + Divers at Work 256 + Diving over the Side of a Steamer 257 + Coral-fishing in the Mediterranean 259 + The Coral-worm 260 + Cup-coral and Brain-coral 260 + An Atoll in the Pacific Ocean 261 + Submarine Observations 263 + The Bellows-fish, or Angler 264 + A Curious Home 265 + Crabs in a Quarrel 266 + Sea-anemones 267 + The Sponge at Home 268 + How Sponges are Speared 269 + Cleopatra dissolving the Pearl 270 + Pearl-bearing Shells 271 + Sizes of Pearls 272 + Pearl-fishery at Bahrein 273 + Persian Gulf Diver 274 + M. Jaquin's Experiment 275 + The Bleak 276 + The Doctor's Discovery 276 + The Turtle at Home 278 + Turtle-hunting 279 + On a Frail Raft 282 + The Rescue 283 + Gulf-weed 284 + Haunts of the Sea-birds 285 + In the Harbor 286 + Boatmen at Singapore 287 + A Chinese Contractor 289 + Chinese Tailors at Singapore 290 + A Group of Jacoons 291 + Garri with a Load of Sailors 292 + Full Dress at the Straits 293 + Chinese Garden at Singapore 296 + Maternal Care 297 + Rural Scene in Singapore 298 + Fruit-sellers at Singapore 299 + A Bungalow 300 + Chinese Gentleman's Garden 301 + The God of Gamblers 302 + Malay Boy in the Bird-market 303 + Head of Black Cockatoo 304 + Ejecting an Intruder 306 + A New Type of Mankind 308 + Klings and Chinese 312 + Native Nurses and Children 313 + Coaling at the Dock 314 + Carrying Coal on Board 315 + Servants on Duty 316 + Scene on the Sumatra Coast 317 + Crossing the Line on a Man-of-war 319 + Chief's House in a Pirate Village 322 + Harbor of Pirates 323 + The Pirates' Victim 324 + Sinews of War 325 + A Trading-station on the Coast 327 + A Bayou on the Palembang River 328 + Arab Houses at Palembang 329 + Lounging under a Mango-tree 330 + Alligators taking Sun and Air 331 + View in a Sumatran Village 332 + Chased by a Tiger 333 + Treed by a Bear 334 + Shooting a Boa-constrictor 335 + A Snaky Creek 336 + Monkey Examining a Tortoise 337 + Female Orang-outang. From a Photograph 338 + Natives of Borneo Fighting with an Orang-outang 339 + A Flying-frog 341 + A Sumatran Butterfly 342 + Arrival in Port 344 + The Carriage at the Custom-house 345 + The National Taste 346 + Their Servant 347 + The Mango 348 + A Trifle too Peppery 349 + After Breakfast 349 + An Early Call 350 + Native House on the River that Feeds the Canal 352 + Family Party in Batavia 354 + Fan-palm in the Botanical Garden 355 + Chinese Porters 356 + Goddess of Sailors and her Assistants 357 + Some of the Third-class Passengers 359 + View in a Private Garden 360 + Native Village near the Railway 361 + Tropical Growths along the Line 362 + "Mangosteens!" 363 + Veranda of the Hotel Bellevue 365 + View from the Veranda at Buitenzorg 366 + A Bad Road 367 + The Vanda Lowii 368 + A Tree Growing in Mid-air 369 + Group of Birds in the Malay Archipelago 371 + Magnificent Bird of Paradise 372 + Superb Bird of Paradise 372 + Six-shafted Bird of Paradise 373 + Long-tailed Bird of Paradise 373 + The Yankee Elephant 375 + The Chinese Elephant 375 + The Operatic Elephant 375 + The Elephant in Love 376 + Ancient Bas-relief--Java 376 + A Monster Volcano 377 + Peasant Farm-houses 379 + Home of a Prosperous Contractor 380 + Coffee-plantation in the Mountains 381 + "Old Government Java" 382 + A Javanese Chief 383 + An Improved Sugar Estate 384 + Retainers of a Javanese Regent 385 + "Good-night" 386 + The House at the Spring 388 + Pounding Coffee 389 + Dutch Overseers 390 + Foot-bridge over a Mountain Stream 392 + Rewards for Good Conduct 394 + Pirate Prisoners on a Colonial Gun-boat 395 + Passport Office 396 + Ordered Out of the Country 398 + No Admittance 399 + Starling on the Journey. 401 + By the Roadside 402 + Lodgings of the Stable-men 403 + Just Imported 404 + The Waiter at Sindinglaya 406 + Sleeping-room in the Sanitarium 407 + A Mountain Cascade 409 + Javanese Boys 410 + Train of Coffee-carts 412 + Seed-pods of the Tea-plant 413 + Gathering Tea-leaves 415 + Drying Tea in the Sun 416 + Drying over Charcoal 416 + Roasting Tea 417 + Handy with his Feet 418 + Roasting Green Tea 419 + Tea Regions of the United States 420 + Roasting-basket 421 + Volcano in Eastern Java 423 + Ruins near Sourabaya 424 + An Island Port 425 + Wild Fig-tree 425 + A Village in Lombock 426 + View near Mataram 427 + Where the Great Spirit and the Rajah met 428 + Gun-boring in Lombock 430 + Natives of Timor 431 + Delli, Portuguese Timor 432 + Natives of Aru Shooting the Great Bird of Paradise 433 + A Native Anchor 434 + Great Street of Dobbo in the Trading-season 436 + Wearing the Cangue 437 + A Native of Aru 438 + Sea-cucumber 439 + A Papuan Pipe 439 + A Bird of Amboyna 440 + Sago Club 440 + Preparing Sago 441 + Sago Oven 442 + Sugar-palm of Macassar 442 + Climbing the Mountain 443 + Coming Down the Mountain 445 + "Good-bye!" 446 + + + + +[Illustration: _Map to accompany "The Boy Travellers of the far East"_] + + + + +THE BOY TRAVELLERS + +IN + +THE FAR EAST. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +DEPARTURE FROM HONG-KONG. + + +"There she comes!" shouted Frank Bassett, as he pointed away to the +eastward. + +Doctor Bronson and his nephew Fred were standing close beside Frank, and +their eyes eagerly followed the direction of his hand. + +"Yes, there she is!" Fred responded; "what a splendid sight!" + +They were on the lookout platform on Victoria Peak, 1800 feet above the +harbor of Hong-kong. The city, the island, the surrounding waters, and +the neighboring coast of China all lay before them like a map. They had +been studying the scene, and the Doctor had explained to the boys its +remarkable resemblance to the view from the summit of the Rock of +Gibraltar. + +[Illustration: HONG-KONG, FROM KELLET'S ISLAND.] + +Their geographical observations were interrupted by the announcement of +the sergeant in charge of the signal-station that the Pacific Mail +steamer _City of Peking_ was just outside the harbor, and would shortly +enter through the Ly-ee-moon Pass. Hong-kong harbor has two entrances; +the one to the eastward is known as the Ly-ee-moon, while that to the +west is called the Lama Passage. Both are easy of navigation, and admit +ships of the largest class to one of the finest harbors in the world. + +The great steamer ploughed steadily forward; and as she passed Kellet's +Island, which is a fortified rock near the Ly-ee-moon, she turned +gracefully, and headed straight for her anchorage. Our friends watched +her till she came to her resting-place, and her engines had ceased +working; then they said good-bye to the signal-station, and proceeded to +the sedan-chairs which were waiting for them. The chair-coolies had also +seen the steamer, and, as they were anxious to reach the city before the +passengers could come ashore, they made the best possible time on their +way down the mountain. They ran rather than walked, and two or three +times the boys narrowly escaped a fall in the sudden bends of the zigzag +road. + +The adventures of Doctor Bronson, Frank Bassett, and Fred Bronson, and +their reasons for being in Hong-kong, have been narrated in a previous +volume.[1] + +[1] "The Boy Travellers in the Far East. Adventures of Two Youths in a +Journey to Japan and China." By Thomas W. Knox. Published by Harper & +Brothers, New York, 1880. + +They expected the _City of Peking_ to bring letters that would determine +their future movements. Is it any wonder they were in a hurry to have +her mails landed, and the precious letters delivered? + +Their letters were addressed in care of the banking-house on which their +credits were drawn, and very naturally the boys were eager to go at once +to that establishment. The Doctor suggested that it would be quite time +enough to go there after lunch; and, as the appetites of the trio had +been sharpened by the excursion up the mountain, the proposal met no +opposition whatever. + +The meal was served in the dining-room of the hotel, and as soon as it +was ended the party walked leisurely to the banking-house. In a little +while their letters were handed to them, and greatly rejoiced were the +boys at the arrival of these precious missives from home. The return to +the hotel was a rapid one on the part of the youths, who left the good +Doctor far behind, in their eagerness to be once more in their rooms, +where they could be safe from interruption while they read the messages +from their friends. + +The letters were full of good news. + +[Illustration: MARY AND EFFIE READING FRANK'S LETTER.] + +The parents of both the boys expressed their delight at the good use +which Frank and Fred had made of their time, and the interesting +accounts they had given of their experiences in Japan and China, and +their voyage over the Pacific Ocean. Mary and Miss Effie had received +the presents which Frank bought for them in Japan, and Mary confessed in +her letter that since the arrival of the precious box they had thought +and talked of nothing else. They had dressed themselves in Japanese +garments, and Miss Effie was sure that, if their eyes were properly +sloped at the corners, they could readily pass for residents of Tokio or +Kioto. + +The Doctor reached the hotel while they were in the midst of their +reading. His package of letters was quite as large as that of either of +the boys, and among them there was a very portly letter, which had +required a liberal amount of stamps to pay for its transportation. This +he opened first, and, after perusing it carefully, he smiled, and laid +it aside. Evidently the contents were pleasing. + +Frank and Fred were through with their letters about the same time, and +as soon as they were at liberty they began comparing notes. Both were a +good deal disappointed, as they had received no indication of their +future course. Would they go directly back across the Pacific Ocean, or +would they proceed on a journey around the world? Perhaps the Doctor +could tell them; but just then he was occupied, and they did not wish to +disturb him. + +There was a rap at the door, followed by the entrance of a servant +bringing a letter, which had been overlooked at the banker's. It was for +Mr. Frank Bassett; and that young gentleman was not long in breaking the +seal and possessing himself of its contents. + +His air of melancholy changed to one of delight. He threw his arms +around Fred, and made a start in the direction of the Doctor, as if +intending to favor him with an embrace, but speedily checked himself, +and confined his demonstrations to a quiet leap over a chair that stood +in the middle of the room; then he held out the letter for Fred to read. + +Fred's delight at the intelligence conveyed in the document was quite +equal to Frank's. The question was settled; they were to continue on +their journey around the world. The necessary letters of credit would be +sent in care of Doctor Bronson, and should be in the mail brought by the +_City of Peking_. + +Frank saw the large letter on the table in front of the Doctor, and at +once divined that it was the important missive containing papers similar +to the one with which he was provided before he left home. There was yet +a goodly amount remaining on his letter of credit, but not enough to +carry him to America by way of Europe. Fred was in a similar +predicament, and therefore a permission to go forward would be of no +great use if unaccompanied by the necessary cash or its equivalent. + +Doctor Bronson relieved their doubt by handing them the letters of +credit which had come in the bulky parcel in question. They were +considered too valuable to be intrusted to the ordinary mail, and +therefore they had been "registered." And from their experience with the +Post-office in China and other Eastern countries, our three friends were +unanimously of the opinion that all valuable letters going there should +be sent by registered post. The Japanese postal service was the most +perfect one they found in their travels, and the Doctor declared that +some of our officials at home might learn what would be to their +advantage if they would visit the post-office at Yokohama and see how +admirably it was conducted. + +"Well, boys," said Dr. Bronson, "it's all settled." + +The boys had a moment of standing on tiptoe in their exuberant delight, +and then Frank asked, + +"Where are we to go, Doctor, and when are we to start?" + +"That is what we must determine now," was the reply. "We have several +routes open to us, and each has its advantages." + +"I think," answered Frank, "that we could not do better than leave the +selection of the route to Doctor Bronson. He has proved such an +excellent guide and friend thus far, that we have the most implicit +confidence in his judgment, and are quite willing to adopt his +suggestions without question." + +This was said as if Frank had been addressing himself to his cousin +rather than the Doctor. Fred instantly accepted the proposal, and it was +promptly agreed that the whole matter should be left in Doctor Bronson's +hands to arrange. The latter thanked the youths for the expression of +their confidence in him, and then proceeded to designate on the map the +routes leading westward from Hong-kong. + +"The regular mail steamers," said he, "go from here to Singapore, which +you see is down close to the equator, and at the entrance of the Straits +of Malacca. The English steamers go directly there without stopping; but +the French ones touch at Saigon, in Cochin China, which is a colony of +the French Government." + +"I have thought out a plan," he continued, "while we have been waiting, +and what I propose is this: + +"We will go from here to Saigon by one of the French ships, and then +make a stay in Cochin China long enough to see what we wish of the +country. Then we can find a trading-ship of some kind to take us to +Siam, and once there, we shall have no trouble in getting to Singapore, +as there is a regular line between that city and Bangkok, the capital of +Siam. There is much to be seen in Siam, as well as in Cochin China; and +I think this route will be far preferable to the direct one by the mail +steamers, though it will not be so comfortable. We must be prepared to +"rough it" a little both on shore and at sea, but our privations will be +more than compensated by the abundance of interesting sights on the +way." + +The boys agreed at once to the proposal, and the conversation came to an +end. The Doctor went to arrange for the proposed journey, and the youths +brought out their writing materials, and devoted the rest of the +afternoon to the preparation of letters in answer to those they had just +received. + +[Illustration: ARRIVAL OF THE FRENCH MAIL STEAMER.] + +The French steamer arrived from Shanghai in the evening, and her great +hull loomed majestically in the light of the full-moon as she came to +anchor. It is a condition of the contracts for the transportation of the +mails, that a steamer is not to lie more than twenty-four hours at any +of the stopping-places along the route unless detained by unforeseen +accidents. Consequently, when one of these ships arrives, it is pretty +certain that her departure will occur within the time above specified; +and it was shortly announced that the ship in question would leave at +noon the next day. The mail service between Europe and the Far East is +performed almost as regularly as that across the Atlantic, and the +arrivals at the various points can be guessed with tolerable accuracy. +The English and French steamers perform each a fortnightly service both +ways, and, as they run alternately, the residents of China and Japan +have weekly mail-days for sending and receiving their letters. + +Doctor Bronson engaged passage for the party by the French steamer as +far as Saigon, and then went to the office of the "Yuen Fat Hong" to +ascertain if there was a vessel for Bangkok by way of Cochin China. + +In the last few years the Chinese merchants have gone somewhat +extensively into the business of running steamships. There is a company +with a capital of two million dollars that owns several lines of +steamers along the coast and on the great river of China, the +Yang-tse-kiang, and its officers and stockholders are all of them +Chinese. There are several smaller companies, and there are Chinese +commission-houses that act as agents for English and other steamers in +the Eastern trade. The Yuen Fat Hong was one of these commission-houses, +and it managed the business of a line of English ships running between +Hong-kong and Bangkok, with an occasional call at Saigon. + +[Illustration: PRIVATE PARLOR OF THE "YUEN FAT HONG."] + +Doctor Bronson found the office without any difficulty, and was shown +into a neatly-arranged parlor, where four well-dressed Chinese were +sitting. Three of them were holding fans in their hands, while the +fourth was indulging in the luxury of a pipe. Plants in pots stood near +the walls, and there was a table in the centre of the room, where the +oldest and most serious of the Oriental gentlemen was seated. Evidently +it was a time of relief from labor, and so there was no delay in +attending to the inquiries of the Doctor. + +The information he obtained was entirely satisfactory. The house was to +send a ship in a week or ten days to Bangkok by way of Saigon; it would +stop two or three days in the latter port, and if the party would be +satisfied with the limited accommodations, they could secure passage +from there to Siam. + +It was secured at once, and then the Doctor returned to the hotel. + +[Illustration: A CHINESE BOATWOMAN.] + +The next morning the boys were up early; and long before the hour fixed +for their departure from the hotel they had all their baggage in +readiness. The trunks and valises were delivered to the porters and +carried to the landing-place, whence they were to be transported in a +small boat to the great steamer that lay smoking in the harbor. The boat +that the party engaged was a reminder of Canton, as it was occupied by +an entire family; two or three children were quietly seated in a sort +of box at the stern, and the crew consisted of two women and a man. One +of the women was evidently captain; at least Frank thought so, when he +observed her air of authority in giving directions for the movement of +the boat. The harbor service of Hong-kong is nearly all performed by +Chinese from the famous boat-population of Canton; they are not +forbidden to live on shore as they are at Canton, but from long habit, +and also from motives of economy, they continue to make their homes on +the boats. + +While on the way to the ship, Fred made a sketch of the younger of the +two women, and declared his intention was rather light in complexion for +an inhabitant of Southern China; her hair was covered by a thick +kerchief, tied in a knot under her chin, and her jacket or blouse was +buttoned in front, and hung loosely down like a silk wrapper. As soon as +she discovered that she was the subject of a sketch she put on her +sweetest smile, and was evidently proud of the honor that Fred was +showing her. + +Less than an hour after they reached the ship they were under way for +Saigon. + +Our friends spent the afternoon on deck, where they had plenty of +occupation watching the irregular line of the coast, and observing the +play of light and shade on the water. There were but few passengers, so +that they had an abundance of room; the weather was delightful, and both +Frank and Fred declared that none of their travel by sea up to that time +had been more agreeable. They abandoned all ideas of being sea-sick; and +when the bell called them to dinner they were promptly in their places +at table. + +Suddenly Fred turned to his cousin and asked if he was aware that China +was the worst country in the world for wheeled vehicles. + +Frank said he knew the Celestial Empire was very badly off for means of +locomotion, but he was not certain that it was the most unfortunate in +this respect. + +"It is a great country," said Fred, "and has an enormous population: we +are going to Saigon, which is the capital of Cochin China." + +"Well," replied Frank, "what has that to do with the matter of wheeled +vehicles?" + +"Don't you see?" responded Fred, "there is only one coach in China!" + +"That is a very good conundrum," remarked the Doctor, who had been +listening to the dialogue between the boys; "but it is as old as it is +good. I heard it when I first came to China, years ago." + +Fred confessed that he found the conundrum in question in a book on +China which he had picked up in Hong-kong, and thereupon it was agreed +that no more jokes should be made until they were again on shore. + +At an early hour the boys retired to their rooms, and it did not require +a long time for them to fall asleep. Fred made no report of any unusual +occurrence during his sleeping hours, but it was otherwise with Frank. +In the morning he intimated that the letters from home had set him to +dreaming, and that all his relatives and friends had congratulated him +on his pleasant and prosperous journey. Fred asked if any one had been +more profuse in congratulations than any one else, and the young dreamer +admitted that such was the case. He mentioned no names, but the Doctor +and Fred had no difficulty in determining who that one was. + +[Illustration: FRANK'S DREAM.] + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +VOYAGE TO SAIGON.--ARRIVAL IN COCHIN CHINA. + + +The voyage from Hong-kong to Saigon was neither long nor unpleasant. The +weather was fine, and the wind favored the progress of the steamer. The +Doctor explained that the north-east monsoon was blowing at that season +of the year, and it was to be relied on with such certainty that the +steamship companies arranged their time-tables with reference to it. The +boys had heard something about the monsoons before this, and Fred +determined that he would study the subject sufficiently to have a clear +understanding of it. So he questioned the Doctor, and examined all the +books he could find that had anything to say about the monsoons, and +when he thought his information was complete he proceeded to put it on +paper. + +[Illustration: HURRICANE DURING THE CHANGE OF THE MONSOON.] + +Here is Fred's essay on the winds of the Eastern seas: + +"The word 'monsoon' comes from the Arabic _musim_, which means 'season,' +and the winds are so called because they blow in alternate seasons, +first in one direction and then in the other. On the coast of China the +wind is from the south-west from April to October, and is then called +the south-west monsoon; for the other half of the year it blows from the +north-east, and is then called the north-east monsoon. There is +generally a period of about two weeks when the winds are irregular at +each change from one monsoon to the other, and at this time the +ship-masters are very fearful of severe storms, with heavy rain and much +thunder and lightning. + +[Illustration: A FAVORING MONSOON.] + +"The monsoon winds are known all over the Eastern seas, from the coast +of China to the shores of Arabia. Their periods of blowing are so well +understood that the steamship captains know exactly when they may be +expected, and their voyages are arranged accordingly. On the printed +time-tables of all the steamship companies you will find 'monsoon +allowances;' and on the coast of India there are certain ports where the +ships cannot touch at all when the monsoon is unfavorable. The +Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company allows four days for +its ships between Suez and Shanghai when the monsoon is against them, +and one day on the voyage between Hong-kong and Yokohama. The French +mail steamers have the same allowances. In August, when the south-west +wind is blowing, a steamer goes from Hong-kong to Yokohama in seven +days; but in April, when the wind is the other way, she is allowed eight +days for the voyage. + +"The monsoons are caused just like all other winds--by the heated air +rising and cold air rushing in to fill its place. In summer, when the +sun is over Asia and the ground becomes heated to a high degree, the air +rises, and the cooler air from the south comes to fill up the space. +This makes the south-west monsoon; and when the seasons change, and it +becomes summer in the southern hemisphere and winter in the northern, +then the air goes the other way, and the wind blows from the north-east. +This is the north-east monsoon. + +[Illustration: RUNNING BEFORE THE TRADE-WIND.] + +"The monsoons should not be mistaken for the trade-winds which blow in +the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, and also in the southern part of the +Indian Ocean. The monsoons change every half year, as I have explained, +but the trade-winds blow regularly all the year round in the same +direction. They are caused by the warm air rising from the vicinity of +the equator, owing to the great heat, and the cool air rushing in from +the south and from the north. The trade-winds have been so named because +they have been of great assistance to commerce; sailing-ships can +calculate their voyages with great accuracy by means of these winds, and +I have read and heard of ships in the trade-winds that sailed for twenty +or thirty days without moving a rope or altering the position of a sail. +They went along ten or twelve miles an hour, and the sailors had nothing +to do but lie around the deck or in the forecastle, and amuse themselves +in any way they liked." + +Fred read his production to the Doctor and Frank as they sat on deck, +the second day of the voyage from Hong-kong. Frank wanted a copy, but +took the precaution to ask the Doctor if it was all correct. The latter +said it was entirely, so far as he knew, but it did not tell the whole +story. Thereupon Frank set at work to find something additional, and in +the course of an hour or so he offered the following post-script to the +essay of his cousin: + +"In studying about the trade-winds and the monsoons, I find that they do +not blow directly north or directly south, as we might suppose they +would if they came in to fill up the vacancy caused by the rising of the +heated air. North of the equator the trade-winds blow from the +north-east, and south of it they are from the south-east. The +inclination to the east is caused by the rotary motion of the earth from +east to west. The earth slips from under the wind while turning on its +axis, and it is really the earth that makes the slope of the wind, and +not the wind itself. Something like it may be seen when a boat crosses a +river. The boatman may try to pull straight across, but if he does so +the current carries him down, and he is unable to land opposite his +starting-point. The only way he can do so is by going obliquely against +the stream. + +"The monsoons get their direction in the same way as the trade-winds get +theirs; with this difference, that the south-west monsoon starts near +the equator, and not in the southern hemisphere, like the south-east +trade-wind. The rotary motion of the earth is greater at the equator +than it is in the northern latitudes, and so the wind gets a westerly +inclination instead of an easterly one, as in the case of the +trade-wind. Some of the scientific men say that the north-east monsoon +is not a monsoon at all, but only the north-east trade-wind taking its +regular course, which has been disturbed by the more powerful wind from +the south-west." + +"Very good," remarked the Doctor, when Frank read what he had written. +"I am a little fearful, however, that it will not be understood by +everybody, and so we will drop the dry subject and think of something +easier." + +The boys admitted that the topic was a dry one, but nevertheless it was +interesting; and they thought they would not be doing their duty in +their journey if they failed to comprehend the great winds that so +materially help or hinder the movements of ships in Asiatic waters. + +On their third day from Hong-kong the boys heard with delight that land +was visible. At first it was like a dark cloud on the horizon; but, as +they approached it, the scene changed, and the cloud was resolved into a +tropical shore, backed by a line of hills in the distance. The steamer +headed for a little promontory, and by-and-by a light-house was revealed +that marked the entrance of the river which they were to ascend. + +A boat came out from the mouth of the river, and a pilot boarded the +steamer. He was a weather-beaten Frenchman, who had lived more than +twenty years in Cochin China, and was thoroughly familiar with the +channel of the river, or rather of its various channels. The Mekong +empties into the China Sea, very much as the Mississippi discharges into +the Gulf of Mexico; it has several mouths, and the whole lower part of +its course is divided into canals and bayous, that are very convenient +for the natives in the matter of local navigation. + +Saigon, the destination of the steamer and of our friends, is on one of +these lower branches of the Mekong, about thirty miles from the sea. The +river is not more than five or six hundred feet wide, and the channel is +very crooked. The boys were reminded of their trip up the Peiho, from +Taku to Tien-Tsin, when they were on their way to Peking, but they voted +that the present voyage was the more agreeable of the two, inasmuch as +the steamer did not follow the example of their ship on the Peiho, by +occasionally running her nose into the bank. Their progress was steady +but slow, and they had plenty of time to study the scenery of the new +country they were entering. + +[Illustration: RICE-FIELDS ON THE MEKONG.] + +On both banks of the river the land is quite flat, and they were told +that, in times of unusual freshets, it was overflowed for long +distances. For this reason, it is not very thickly populated, although +the soil is rich, and could be made to produce abundantly. All along the +banks there was a thick fringe of mangrove-trees, and sometimes they +appeared to extend over many square miles of land. Here and there were +rice-fields that appeared to have the most careful cultivation; and +sometimes a village, with its temple rising above the modest dwellings +of the inhabitants, was revealed to the eyes of the young wanderers. + +The number of the villages increased; and by-and-by a larger collection +of houses than they had yet seen was visible. This was the last village +before Saigon, and finally the city itself came into view. The steamer +stopped in front of it, and hardly was her anchor down before she was +surrounded by a crowd of native boats. Some of them were exactly of the +model of those at Hong-kong and Canton, and others were new to the eyes +of our friends. A great many Chinese have come here from Canton, and +brought their manners and customs with them; and they have also brought +their boats, or caused the construction of some exactly similar to those +they left behind. + +As soon as convenient the Doctor engaged a boat for the party, and the +three travellers went on shore. There are several hotels at Saigon not +far from the landing-place, and it was not long before the strangers +were comfortably quartered--at least comfortably for Cochin China. After +their experiences at Peking and other places, they were not inclined to +be fastidious about their lodgings. + +[Illustration: A NATIVE WOMAN.] + +As soon as they had arranged matters at the hotel, the party went out +for a stroll. They found Saigon was well laid out, with broad streets +that ran straight as sunbeams for long distances. Most of them were +macadamized, and shaded with double rows of trees, and they had deep +gutters to carry off the heavy rains that fall in this latitude. The +boys were greatly interested in observing the hats worn by the natives; +those of the men were conical in shape, and came down over the shoulders +like an extinguisher over a candle. The women wore hats that resembled +baskets, about six inches deep by not less than two feet across. The +hats for both men and women are made of leaves, closely plaited +together, and serve to keep off the rain as well as the sun. The hat of +the man is particularly useful as an umbrella, as the wearer need only +bring it down over his head to make his shelter very nearly complete. +When walking on the road, he must keep it well tilted up in front in +order to enable him to see his way. + +As they walked along, the Doctor explained that the most of the people +they met were not the original inhabitants of the country. Saigon was a +small fishing-village in 1861, when it was captured by the French and +occupied as a military post. The captors determined to make it a city of +consequence, and the French government has expended a great deal of +money in this endeavor. They have constructed roads and streets on the +same scale that the English have adopted at Shanghai, and they have +built dock-yards where ships can be repaired. They have maintained a +large garrison of soldiers, and several times have been called on to +suppress insurrections that cost a great deal of money and blood. + +"Now," said the Doctor, "when the French established themselves here, +they opened the port for anybody to come and live in Saigon, as they +wanted to build up its trade as fast as possible. A great many Chinese +came here from Canton and Singapore, and the result was that the place +grew very rapidly. The Chinese came much faster than the emigrants from +France and other European countries, and also faster than the natives of +Cochin China from other parts of the conquered provinces. Consequently, +here is a French city with a foreign population greater than the native +one, and greater than that from France itself. + +"Nearly all the business of Saigon is in the hands of the Chinese," the +Doctor continued, "and they have managed to drive out most of the +foreigners who were established here. They can live so much more +cheaply, and transact business for a smaller profit, that the foreigner +cannot compete with them. The number of foreign houses in Saigon is +diminishing every year, and it looks as though the Chinese would have it +pretty nearly all to themselves by the end of another ten years." + +[Illustration: STREET IN THE CHINESE QUARTER.] + +They found some parts of Saigon so much Chinese in character that they +seemed to be carried back to Canton or Shanghai. Chinese signs abounded; +Chinese shops were open, and the men doing business both behind and +before the counters were Chinese. Chinese eyes were upon them, and +frequently Chinese peddlers approached them with articles for sale. +Chinese were at worship in the temples, walking, talking, trading, and +pursuing their ordinary avocations, and for every foreigner the boys +encountered they met a hundred inhabitants of the Flowery Kingdom. + +The roads were dry and dusty, and after a walk of a couple of hours our +friends returned to the hotel. Late in the afternoon they went out again +to hear one of the military bands play, and to see the people on their +daily promenade. The band plays at a stand on the street parallel to +the river, and everybody who can come out to see and be seen is sure to +be there. + +Frank found the crowd so variegated that he suggested to Fred that it +was like looking through a kaleidoscope. There were Frenchmen, Germans, +Englishmen, Spaniards, and Portuguese among the foreigners; while the +Asiatics included Chinese, Anamese, Cambodians, Malays, Siamese, and a +variety of other nationalities the boys were unable to determine. In +fact, they would not have been able to recognize all the people +mentioned above if it had not been for the assistance of the Doctor, who +was skilled in the study of faces and the sound of languages. Fred +thought that the confusion of tongues was enough to give one a faint +idea of what the Tower of Babel must have been at the time the builders +suspended work. + +[Illustration: PLANTS IN THE BOTANICAL GARDEN.] + +They finished their explorations of the day with a visit to the +botanical garden, just as the sun was sinking in the west. The garden +contains a good variety of the tropical plants peculiar to the country, +and also some that the French have imported, with a view to distributing +them through the province in case the cultivation should prove +advantageous. There are also some wild animals carefully kept in cages, +with the exception of the elephants, which have no greater restriction +than being fastened with chains. The most interesting of these animals, +in the eyes of the boys, were some tigers which came from the upper +regions of the Mekong River, and were larger than any they had ever seen +in America. + +[Illustration: A NEW ACQUAINTANCE.] + +The evening was devoted to a study of the geography and history of the +country they were in, and before the boys went to bed they had a pretty +clear idea of Cochin China and the regions that surround it. In the +morning they complained of numerous visits from the mosquitoes that +abound in Saigon the entire year, and are as attentive as the mosquitoes +of the United States or any other country. + +[Illustration: A MOSQUITO OF SAIGON.] + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE.--FIRST SIGHTS AND SCENES IN ANAM. + + +The boys made a division of labor in looking up information about the +country. Frank was to find what he could concerning its natural features +and extent, while Fred undertook to learn something about the French +occupation, and the reasons that led to it. When they were ready, the +essays were read to the Doctor for his approval or rejection; and there +was a brief discussion to determine who should be first to read, or +rather last, as each preferred not to be the beginner. The Doctor +settled the question by deciding that the natural features of the +country existed before the French came there, and, therefore, it was the +duty of Frank to open the subject. + +Thus assured, Frank produced his note-book, and read: + +"The countries of Birmah, Siam, and Anam are known to geographers as +'Indo-China,' for the reason that they lie between India and China, and +have some of the characteristics of both. The empire of Anam is the one +we are now considering, and we will leave the others until we get to +them in the course of our travels. It is erroneously called Cochin +China, from a province of that name which is included in the empire. The +proper divisions of Anam are Cambodia, Tonquin, Tsiampa, and Cochin +China, and more than three-fourths of its boundaries are washed by the +sea. It is about nine hundred miles long, and its width varies a great +deal, owing to the indentations of the coast. Cochin China proper is +only some ninety miles long by twenty broad, and it is really the +smallest of the provinces. Cambodia is the largest and most populous, +and the soil is said to be more productive than that of the other parts +of the empire. The number of inhabitants is not known, but it is +generally thought to be from twelve to fifteen millions. + +[Illustration: NATIVE GENTLEMAN AT SAIGON.] + +"The people resemble the Malays and Chinese, and are sometimes called +the connecting link between the two. They are smaller than the Chinese, +but not so dark as the Malays; their dress resembles the Chinese, but +they do not shave their heads as the latter do. They are not very +ingenious, and have comparatively few manufactures; their chief +employments are in agriculture, and they raise a great deal of rice, +which is exported to China and other countries. They also export sugar, +raw silk, cinnamon, dye-stuff, elephants' hides and bones, together with +a good many gums and spices. The dye known as gamboge comes from +Cambodia, and the name of the country is said to be derived from this +article. On the coast the people engage in fishing, and all through the +country the food of the people consists of fish and rice. The natives +will eat a great deal when they have the opportunity, but they are able +to live on a very small allowance of food when necessity compels them. +Buddhism is the prevailing religion, but they are not very earnest in +it; they have great respect for the dead, and resemble the Chinese in +their veneration for their ancestors. + +"The country near the coast is generally flat, but farther inland it +becomes mountainous. There are tribes in the interior that are more than +half savage in their character; they live mostly on wild fruits, and are +widely scattered. Some sleep in the trees, and some build small huts, +but they rarely have permanent villages, and never get together in great +numbers. Sometimes the Cambodians make war on these hill-tribes, and +those that they capture are sold as slaves. + +"The principal river is the Mekong, and it is one of the largest streams +in South-eastern Asia. It rises in China, and has a general course of +about one thousand seven hundred miles to the south, and it falls into +the sea by several mouths between the ninth and tenth degrees of north +latitude. There are many villages and towns along its banks, and in its +lower course the river is navigable for the largest ships." + +Frank paused, and said that was all he had been able to obtain about +Anam, but he hoped to have more by-and-by. The Doctor pronounced his +essay an excellent one, as it gave a good general description of the +country, and contained the information that every traveller and reader +ought to have. + +Now it was Fred's turn to read. He had been uneasily twisting his +note-book between his fingers, evidently dreading the ordeal of +delivery; but as soon as he was through with the first line, his +embarrassment vanished, and his voice was as firm as ever. + +"Nearly a hundred years ago," said Fred, "France opened relations with +Anam, and arranged to give the latter country certain assistance against +its enemies in return for commercial and missionary privileges. It was +about the time of the famous French Revolution. Only a small part of the +promised assistance was given by France, and she was too busy with +affairs at home to demand all that had been agreed upon on the part of +Anam. The French missionaries were protected in the exercise of their +religious duties, and a small trade was carried on until about the year +1831. The old king died, and a new one went on the throne; he was +opposed to the French and Spanish missionaries, and endeavored to drive +them out of the country. Many of them were killed, and the native +Christians were persecuted, so that Christianity threatened to +disappear. + +"Things went on in this way for twenty years. In 1851 the French +determined to interfere, both for the protection of the missionaries and +to demand the concessions that were promised when relations were first +opened with Anam. Shortly before they came, an order had been issued +that all missionaries should be drowned in the river, and any native who +concealed, or in any way assisted a missionary, was to be cut in two. +The war was a slow one, and the invaders were several times held back by +fortifications that had been built by the French engineers who came here +in 1795. The persecutions were partially stopped, and in 1857 the French +went away. + +"New orders against the missionaries were then issued, and more of them +were killed. In August, 1858, there was a combined French and Spanish +expedition against Anam, which captured the chief seaport and several +important places. The war was kept up till 1862, when there was a treaty +of peace. This treaty compelled Anam to pay five million dollars to +France as compensation for the war, and to promise that every native +should be free to adopt any religion that he liked. The missionaries +were not to be disturbed, and the principal cities were to be open to +French merchants to trade in whatever they chose to buy and sell. A +French Protectorate was established over the province of Cochin China, +and afterwards over other provinces, and--" + +[Illustration: VIEW OF THE FRENCH QUARTER OF SAIGON.] + +"Stop a moment," said the Doctor; "you had better explain what a +protectorate is." + +Fred was evidently prepared for the question, as he answered promptly, + +"A protector is one who defends or shields from injury. In government +matters a protector is a person who has the care of a kingdom during the +minority or illness of the king; or it may mean a cardinal or other high +official who looks after the interests of a religious body. A +protectorate is a government by a protector, or it may be the authority +assumed by a superior power over a weaker or a dependent one. + +"The case of France and Anam is that the treaty provided that the French +should take the management of the affairs of the conquered country, and +that the governor-general they sent here should be really the highest +officer in the land. The Anamese can do nothing in the way of making and +enforcing laws without the consent of the French; in fact, they are +exactly in the condition of a colony, and the country where we now are +is called the French Colony of Eastern Asia." + +"Quite right," said the Doctor, when Fred had concluded. "Now we will +hear what the French have done in the way of colonization." + +"They have followed their old policy of making no interference with the +local laws, except with such as had a character of oppression or +cruelty. They required the native authorities to swear to be loyal to +France, and when they did so they sustained them until there were +complaints that they did not manage affairs properly. In such cases they +have investigated the complaints, and done what they thought right in +the matter, either by removing or sustaining the official. They have +lowered the taxes and established regulations regarding civil marriages, +and, on the whole, their presence has been a benefit to the people of +Anam. In the matter of marriages they have followed the rule that they +long ago adopted in Algeria; a native may be married under the native +laws if he likes, and can divorce his wife at a moment's notice, and +without giving any reason; but if he marries her in a French court, he +is under French laws, and must abide by them. A great many of the +natives of the better class insist upon having their daughters married +in the French courts, as they know they will be better treated than +under the old system. + +"Several times there have been insurrections against the French, and +some of them have cost a great deal of money and fighting. But they have +always resulted in victories for the French, and in the addition of new +provinces to the territory under their control. At present they have a +protectorate over more than half of the peninsula; some of the smaller +provinces in the North are nominally independent, while in some portions +of the country held by the French the natives do very little more for +the foreign government than pay a small tax to it every year. + +"The population of the country under the French protectorate is said to +be not far from four millions. There is an army of ten or twelve +thousand men, of whom nearly if not quite half are natives. The natives +are said to make good soldiers, particularly in the artillery. A great +part of the garrison duty in the forts on the coast and in the interior +is performed by the native troops, and they are said to get along very +well with the French. In Cambodia many of the soldiers are from Manilla, +as they are considered more warlike, and besides the king says it is +cheaper to hire them from other countries than to use his own people. +The army of Cambodia is smaller in proportion than that of the other +parts of the country, and the French allow the king to do pretty much as +he likes." + +Fred had reached the end of his chapter, and consequently came to a +pause. The Doctor complimented him on his excellent account of the +invasion and occupation of Anam, and after a little general talk on the +subject, the party broke up. + +[Illustration: NATIVE SOLDIERS AT SAIGON.] + +As they were naturally interested in the subject of native troops in the +French service, Frank took the first opportunity to make a sketch of a +couple of them that he saw on duty. He found that they wore a blue +blouse with white trousers--or, rather, that the trousers had been white +at some former date--and their heads were protected from the heat of +the sun by flat hats made of pith or cork, while their feet were bare. +The men that he saw were armed with breech-loading rifles of French +manufacture, and they carried their cartridges at the waist-belt, after +the European fashion. + +Strolling by the river-bank, the boys saw three or four light gun-boats +at anchor in the stream. They learned that the government had about +twenty of these boats, which were used for transporting troops wherever +they were needed, and also for the purpose of protecting the natives +against pirates, and to enforce the laws generally. + +They observed that the police were not of the same nationality as the +soldiers, and found, on inquiry, that the policemen were all Malays from +Singapore, under the supervision of French chiefs. They are said to be +very efficient, and one great advantage of employing them is that they +are not likely to be involved in any of the native conspiracies. + +By the end of their second day in Saigon, it occurred to the boys that +it was about time to begin a letter to friends at home. + +"We will write it as we did the letters from Kioto and Hong kong," said +Frank; "that is, provided you are willing." + +Fred assented to the proposal, and so it was agreed that they would make +up a single letter, in which each should describe some of the things +they had seen, and they would so arrange it that nothing should be +described twice. They devoted all the time they could spare from +sight-seeing to the production of this letter, and here is the result: + +"We have been walking and riding around Saigon, and have seen a great +many things that are new to us. This morning we started early for a walk +to Cholon, about three miles away, and had a very pleasant time on the +road. We met crowds of people coming to town with basketsful of fresh +vegetables for the market; they were nearly all women, and their dress +was much like that of the women we saw in Canton, except that they had +great hats like circular trays. Part of the way the road follows the +bank of a ditch, which the French call 'The Grand Canal;' but there is +not much grandeur about it, as it is half-choked with weeds, and when +the tide is out there is not water enough to float a boat of any size. +There has been no rain for weeks, and the dust was so thick that +sometimes we could hardly see across the road, and were in danger of +being run over. + +[Illustration: THE KING OF THE BEGGARS.] + +"Near the door of a house, in the edge of the city, we saw three beggars +standing, while a man with his finger raised was talking to them. Doctor +Bronson says the man who talked was their chief; and he was telling them +what to do and where to go for the day. Begging is a regular business +in China, and the beggars have their associations, like other trades. + +"We met a long line of carts just after we got outside the city; each +cart was drawn by a pair of bullocks, and they had ropes through their +noses, just as we put them through the noses of bulls at home. The +foremost pair was led by a boy, and all the other bullocks were fastened +to the carts immediately in front of them. How they get on without +pulling some of their noses out, when a cart in the middle of the line +breaks down, we cannot imagine. Perhaps the cord gives way before the +nose does. + +"There were lots of half-wild dogs that seemed to belong to nobody; they +barked at us, and some of them threatened to bite; but we showed tight, +and they concluded to leave us. These brutes are known as 'pariah' dogs +all through the East: 'pariah,' as applied to a man, means an outcast; +and a pariah dog is a dog that has no master and no home. They are not +so abundant here as at Constantinople or Damascus, but Doctor Bronson +says there are quite enough of them to go around, and they go around all +night and all day. + +"Such a noise as the cart-wheels made you never heard in all your lives. +Grease must be scarce in Cochin China, or the people must be fond of +music; at all events, they do not try to stop the squeaking, and a +native will go to sleep in one of these carts when it is moving along +the road, just as calmly as he would in a Pullman car. Doctor Bronson +says that these carts are loaded with gamboge and other dye-stuffs, and +also with hides and horns of cattle, and perhaps with the tusks of +elephants that have been killed for the sake of their ivory. + +"About half-way along the road, we came to what the French call '_La +Plaine des Tombeaux_,' which is nothing more nor less than an enormous +cemetery. It is said to cover several square miles of ground; whether it +does so or not we cannot say, but certainly it is very large, and, as +the Doctor remarked, very densely inhabited. There is nothing very +remarkable about the tombs, as they are nothing but square enclosures, +with little spires like those of the temples. In one part of the +cemetery some priests were at work laying out a place for a grave; +Doctor Bronson says that they perform a lot of ceremonies to determine +where a grave shall be made, and are very particular to bring it under +good influences, and shield it from bad ones. The same superstitions +that prevail in China are to be found here; and even the most +intelligent of the native or Chinese merchants in Saigon would not think +of undertaking any important enterprise without first consulting the +gods, and ascertaining that the 'Fung Shuey' was in their favor. + +"It was an odd sight to see the telegraph-poles along the road, and +skirting the edge of this ancient cemetery. It was bringing the past and +the present close together, and from all we can see the present is +having the best of it. + +[Illustration: VIEW OF CHOLON.] + +"Well, we reached Cholon after a leisurely walk, and went down to the +bank of the river, where great numbers of boats were moored. There were +hundreds, and perhaps thousands of these boats, and at the place where +they are moored they are tied very close together. They are rather long +and narrow, and the best of them have a roof over the centre to protect +the occupants from the sun and rain. Some of them are hewn out of single +logs, and others are built of planks, as in other countries. Many are +permanently fastened to the bank and are occupied as houses, like some +of the boats in Canton; and altogether there is a pretty large water +population. Near the water's edge there are huts built on platforms, and +so arranged that the refuse of the kitchen falls into the river. The +owner is under no expense for drainage, and the whole cost of his +building does not exceed five dollars. Living is cheap in Cholon, if +you are willing to occupy a grass-roofed hut, six feet square, on the +bank of the river, and eat nothing more costly than boiled rice and +fish. We saw two or three huts of the kind we describe, occupied by half +a dozen persons each. They must have found the quarters rather close at +times, but probably did not mind a trifle like that. A single plank +served as the roadway to the shore, and in some instances it was so +shaky that it required a steady head and careful stepping to avoid being +thrown into the water. + +[Illustration: A CHINESE FAMILY AT CHOLON.] + +"More than half the people we saw were Chinese, and not the natives of +the country, and nearly all the business in the shops appeared to be +done by the former. We peeped into some of the houses where the Chinese +live, and they did not seem to care how much we looked at them. We saw +one group that was quite interesting, in spite of the poverty of the +habitation and the scarcity of furniture; there were five persons in +all, or perhaps we should say eight, as there were three cats under the +table that acted as though they were as good as anybody else. Two men +and two children were at a table, and a woman was standing up behind +them to see that everything was all right. On the table there was a +small tub that contained stewed fish and some kind of vegetables, and +there was a bowl for each one to eat from. They were better off than +some other parties we saw at breakfast, who had only one bowl for the +whole lot, and everybody helped himself with his chop-sticks. + +[Illustration: A CAB FOR TWO.] + +"We saw something that reminded us of Shanghai; it was nothing more nor +less than a wheelbarrow, but, unlike the Shanghai one, it had no +passengers. Wouldn't it be funny to see a wheelbarrow in America for +carrying passengers, just as we have cabs and coaches? You must come to +China for a sight like that, and also for a regular ride in a +wheelbarrow, and you can have the consolation of knowing that it is very +cheap and also very uncomfortable. The wheelbarrow has no springs, and +so you get the benefit of every jolt, however small; and as the vehicle +is somewhat weak in the joints, and the man who pushes it is far from +powerful, you feel all the time as though you were liable to be spilled +out. The wheel is large and clumsy, and the frame has a sort of rest in +the centre, where you can put your arms. Two men can occupy one of these +coaches, and they are very popular among the natives, but less so among +the foreigners. + +"On our way back we wandered off into the forest of tropical plants that +stood on each side of the road in many places, and suddenly came on a +little village which was entirely concealed until we were within twenty +yards of it. The natives like to hide their residences as much as they +can, on account of the shade they get from the surrounding trees, and +also to be undisturbed by too many visitors. The dogs barked at us, and +if it had not been for some of the natives that called them off it is +quite possible we should have been bitten. There were half a dozen +children lying around in the dust, and as they were entirely naked, they +did not seem to be afraid of soiling their clothes. The men and women +were not heavily clothed, as the weather is hot, and they want to be as +comfortable as possible. In one house a man was lying on a bench just +inside the wide door-way, and a little girl was fanning him; the Doctor +says the girl was undoubtedly a slave, and that she cost her owner not +far from thirty dollars. + +"Children are bought and sold here the same as in China, and a good many +of the foreigners are said to own slaves while they live in the country, +but they do not try to carry them away. Slaves prefer foreign masters to +native ones, as they are more likely to be kindly treated, and to +receive their freedom in a few years. + +"Some of the houses in the village were well built, and raised a yard or +so from the ground upon pillars of brick. The interior consists of three +or four rooms, and the general appearance of the house is like a Chinese +one. There is an ornamental framework carved in wood to support the +roof, which is covered with thick tiles, and there is generally a +veranda on each side of the door, where the master sleeps in the +afternoon and lounges away a great deal of his time. We should call the +people lazy if they were in America; but it is the custom of the country +to be indolent, and perhaps they are not to blame. Very little will +support a man, as he can gather fruit from the trees, and an acre of +ground is all that he needs for maintaining a large family. The heat +that prevails all the year round does not encourage activity, and a good +many foreigners, who are very enterprising when they first come here, +become as idle as the natives by the end of their second year in the +country." + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +A WONDERFUL TEMPLE.--RUINS OF NAGKON WAT AND ANGKOR. + + +What with sight-seeing, writing letters to friends at home, and filling +their note-books with information for future use, the boys had enough to +occupy their time during their stay in Saigon. In the course of their +studies of the country and its characteristics, they became interested +in its ancient history, and were desirous of seeing some of the ruins +that remain from the early days of Anam and Cambodia. But as the time at +their disposal was too short, and the expense and difficulties of a +journey to the interior would be very great, they were obliged to forego +the pleasure they would derive from an actual visit to some of the most +stupendous ruins in the world. + +[Illustration: CAMBODIAN FEMALE HEAD-DRESS. ANCIENT SCULPTURE.] + +But the Doctor came to their relief in a great measure by giving them a +full account of the wonders they were unable to contemplate. + +"It is not generally known," said he, "that Cambodia contains the ruins +of a temple that was greater in its time than the very famous one of +Thebes in Egypt." + +Frank and Fred opened their eyes in astonishment, as they had always +believed there was nothing in the world that could surpass the Egyptian +temples of old. + +"I will describe them to you," he continued, "and make comparison +between the work of the Egyptian builders and those of Cambodia. When I +have finished, you will be able to judge which is the more magnificent. + +"The great temple I refer to in Cambodia is known as the Nagkon Wat. +Wat, in the Malay language, means temple, and the place in question is +designated by the name 'Nagkon.' The province where it is situated is +really in the territory of Siam--as it was taken from Cambodia near the +end of the last century and annexed to the rival kingdom. If you want to +find the ruins on the map, you must look in about latitude 13° 30' +north, and longitude 104° east. It is not known who built the temple, as +the inscriptions on the stones are in a language that is not understood +at the present day. The general belief is that it was erected twelve or +fifteen hundred years ago, but the estimates of its age vary all the way +from five hundred to two thousand years. + +"It is far more modern than the temples of ancient Egypt, and probably +not nearly as ancient as some of the famous edifices of Syria. In course +of time some one will be able to read the inscriptions, and then we will +learn all about its age and the reasons for its erection." + +[Illustration: Fig. 1. Plan of Inner Temple at Nagkon. + +Fig. 2. Plan of area enclosed by outer wall of Nagkon Wat.] + +"Here is a map of the ruins as they exist to-day," said the Doctor. "You +perceive that the general shape of the work is a square, and that there +are altogether three squares, the smaller inside the greater." + +The boys looked at the map, and indicated that they observed the outline +of the temple. + +"Well," continued Doctor Bronson, "the outer wall, which is not shown in +the plan, is more than half a mile square; if you should undertake to +walk around it you would have a promenade of nearly three miles. + +"Outside the wall there is a wide ditch that was evidently of +considerable depth when first made, but it is filled in many places with +weeds and trees, and there is a forest of palm-trees between the outer +wall and the body of the temple. + +"The main entrance is by a causeway, which you see extending upward from +the foot of the map. The whole length of this causeway, from its +beginning beyond the outer wall to the entrance of the temple, is nearly +two thousand feet, and more than half this distance is within the wall. +The building itself, as you see it on the map, is oblong in shape, being +eight hundred feet long by five hundred and ninety wide; it rises in +three terraces to a central tower two hundred and fifty feet high, and +there are four other towers at the corners of the inner temple that are +each one hundred and fifty feet from the ground. + +[Illustration: UNFINISHED PILLARS.] + +"The causeway was paved with blocks of sandstone, and the edifice +throughout is of the same material. All the stone for the work was +brought from a quarry thirty miles away, and the transportation alone +was an enormous affair. The blocks were brought in a rough state, and +were not finished until they had been put in the positions where they +were to remain. The temple was never completely finished, as there are +several columns that remain just as they came from the quarry, and a +careful observer can indicate the exact spot where the workman turned +away from his labor. It is supposed that the stone was brought on boats +in a canal, as there is no road that could have served for purposes of +transit. + +[Illustration: COLUMNS IN THE TEMPLE.] + +"It is impossible to describe in detail all the halls, and corridors, +and sculptured walls of this wonderful temple. There are several halls +composed of rows of solid columns, like the great hall of the temple at +Thebes. I remember standing astonished at Thebes as I looked at the +great hall, with its one hundred and thirty-four columns, and learned +that, originally, the temple contained nearly three hundred columns of +different sizes. In the Cambodian temple of Nagkon Wat, one thousand +five hundred and thirty two solid columns have been counted; and it is +estimated that there are not less than six thousand columns in the +entire mass of ruins in and around the temple. Most of these columns are +made from single blocks of stone, and all of them are beautifully +carved, just as the Egyptian ones are beautifully painted. + +[Illustration: SCULPTURES ON THE WALLS OF WAGKON WAT.] + +"It would not be at all difficult for a stranger to lose his way in +Nagkon Wat, and wander for hours, unable to find an exit. He might +spend days and days in the study of the beautiful sculptures that adorn +the place; and when I tell you that the walls are covered with +sculptures from one end of the temple to the other, and you remember the +enormous size of the building, you can understand what a gigantic +picture-gallery it is. The scenes represented are mostly from the Hindoo +mythology; they illustrate battles and triumphal processions, sacrifices +and festivals, and also the contests of some of the Hindoo deities with +each other, and with mortals. There is one gallery alone that has half a +mile of pictures cut in stone, and it is estimated that at least one +hundred thousand human figures are engraved there. Here is a picture of +some of them, and you may judge by it of the general excellence of the +work throughout." + +The boys devoted several minutes to the contemplation of the photograph +which the Doctor showed them. Frank remarked that the lightness of the +wheels of the chariot would seem to indicate that it was made of metal, +and consequently the ancient Cambodians must have been familiar with the +use of iron or brass, perhaps both. The soldiers at the bottom of the +picture were marching in a manner that denoted military discipline, but +he could not make out the nature of their weapons. Certainly they were +not rifles, as fire-arms were unknown in those days, and they did not +seem to be spears or bows and arrows. The men were provided with +shields, and in this respect their customs resembled those of many +people of the present day. + +The Doctor explained that the ancient Cambodians made use of spears; but +the principal weapons they employed were clubs, not altogether unlike +those of the South Sea Islanders. Sometimes the club was made straight, +and at others it was curved at the end farthest from the hand of its +owner. It was wielded with the right hand, and the shield was carried in +the left. + +Fred called attention to the fact that there was an elephant in the +picture, and the man on his back was in the act of discharging an arrow +from a bow. Therefore they must have employed bowmen, and evidently they +were an important part of the service, as they were mounted on +elephants. + +"You are quite right in your conclusions," Doctor Bronson responded; +"the bowmen were considered of the highest importance, and their arrows +often did great execution. The elephant had a prominent place in all the +armies of the East, as you know from history, and the Cambodians were no +exception to the rule. No Eastern king would consider his retinue +complete without a large number of war-elephants in his stables." + +"There is a tradition," he continued, "that the king of ancient +Cambodia had an army of half a million of men, with a hundred thousand +elephants, which he could lead to war at a few days' notice. This is +undoubtedly an exaggeration; but he probably had a good supply of these +very useful animals, and his army presented a fine appearance when it +was called to the field." + +Frank observed that the men did not wear armor, and, in fact, had very +little clothing anyway. He wondered that this was the case, as the king +was evidently very rich and powerful, and ought to have had his army +equipped and dressed in the best possible style. + +Fred replied that armor, in a hot country like Cambodia, would be a very +inconvenient thing for a soldier, and render him practically useless. +Frank had not thought of that, and as soon as his attention was called +to it he quite agreed with Fred. + +"A gentleman who visited the temple of Nagkon Wat," the Doctor remarked, +"has given a very good account of the general character of the +sculptures on the walls. I refer to Mr. Thomson, and cannot do better +than quote a few lines from him. + +[Illustration: VIEW FROM THE CENTRAL TOWER OF THE TEMPLE.] + +"The bass-reliefs," says Mr. Thomson, "which are sculptured on the walls +of the galleries of Nagkon Wat are extremely interesting. They are +contained in eight compartments, measuring each from two hundred and +fifty to three hundred feet in length, with a height of six and a half +feet, and in a square space of six and a half feet the average number of +men and animals depicted is sixty. The majority of these representations +are executed with such care and skill, and are so well drawn, as to +indicate that art was fostered, and reached a high state of perfection +among the 'Khamen-te-Buran,' or ancient Cambodians. + +"The chief subjects represented are battle scenes, taken from the epic +poems, Ramayana and Mahabarata--which the Siamese are said to have +received from India about the fourth or fifth century. Disciplined +forces are depicted marching to the field, and possessing distinct +characteristics soon lost in the confusion of battle. In the eager faces +and attitudes of the warriors, as they press forward past bands of +musicians, we see that music then, as now, had its spirit-stirring +influence. We also find humane actions represented--a group bending over +a wounded comrade to extract an arrow, or remove him from the field. +There are also the most animated scenes of bravery--soldiers saving the +lives of their chiefs; chiefs bending over their plunging steeds, and +measuring their prowess in single combat; and, finally, the victorious +army quitting the field laden with spoil, and guarding the numerous +captives with cavalry in front and rear. + +"Perhaps the most wonderful subject of all the bass reliefs is what the +Siamese call the battle of 'Ramakean.' This is one of the leading +incidents of the Ramayama, of which Coleman says, 'The Grecians had +their Homer, to render imperishable the fame acquired by their glorious +combats in the Trojan war; the Latins had Virgil, to sing the prowess of +Æneas; and the Hindoos have their Valmac, to immortalize the deeds of +Rama and his army of monkeys.' The Ramayama--one of the finest poems +extant--describes the scenes of Rama's life, and the exploits of the +contending foes. + +[Illustration: GALLERY OF SCULPTURES.] + +"In the sculptures of Nagkon Wat, many of the incidents of the life of +Rama are depicted; such as his final triumph over the god Ravana, and +the recovery of his wife Sita. The chief illustration of the poem, +however, is the battle scene which ensues after the ape-god Hanuman had +performed several of the feats which formed the every-day incidents of +his life, such as the construction of what is now known as Adam's +Bridge, between Ceylon and India. This he accomplished by a judicious +selection of ten mountains, each measuring sixty-four miles in +circumference; and being short of arms, but never of expedients, when +conveying them to Ceylon, he poised one of them on the tip of his tail, +another on his head, and with these formed his celebrated bridge, over +which his army of apes passed to Lanka. + +"In another compartment the subject appears to be the second Avatar of +Vishnu, where that god is represented as a tortoise supporting the +earth, which is submerged in the waters. The four-armed Brama is seated +above. A seven-headed snake is shown above the water, coiled around the +earth, and extending over the entire length of the bass-relief. The gods +on the right and the _dinytas_ on the left are seen contending for the +serpent. Hanuman is pulling at the tail, while above a flight of angels +are bearing a cable to bind the reptile after the conflict is over. + +"In another compartment we find various mechanical appliances that are +in use to-day. There are double-handled saws; and there are knives, +levers, wedges, pestles and mortars, and a number of other contrivances +that are more or less familiar to us." + +The boys listened with much interest to the reading of the preceding +account. When the Doctor concluded, Frank ventured to ask if the temple +was in a good state of preservation, and whether it was in use at the +present time. + +[Illustration: ANCIENT TOWER OVERGROWN WITH POH-TREES.] + +"It has greatly decayed," replied Doctor Bronson; "but there are so many +of its walls and galleries standing, that the most careless visitor +cannot fail to be impressed with its grandeur, and be able to trace out +every part of the original plan. In many places the weeds and grass and +other vegetation are so luxuriant that the work of the architects is +concealed, and can only be found by searching. There is one tree, called +the 'poh,' that is a great destroyer of walls and stone floorings. The +whole temple was constructed without the use of cement, and in many +instances the junction of the stones is so perfect that only a slender +line can be perceived. The roots of the poh-tree insinuate themselves +into the smallest crevice; then they grow and expand, and by so doing +they gradually force the stones apart. This tree has been of great +injury to the temple we have been considering, and to many other +edifices in these tropical countries of the East. + +[Illustration: HUTS OF THE PRIESTS.] + +"In reply to your second question, I can say that the temple is still +used, though not to the extent it was in its early days. A few priests +live there, and perform services at regular periods; they are supported +by the contributions of the followers of Buddha, who visit the place, +and by donations from the inhabitants of the country round there. They +do not live in the temple itself, but in small huts erected inside the +enclosure that surrounds the great building. These huts are of thatched +grass, and stand on posts as a security against the snakes that abound +in the neighborhood. They are shaded by the palm-trees that have grown +up in what was once a clear space around the temple, and in hot +afternoons their protection is very grateful." + +Fred inquired about the other ruins in Cambodia, and wished to know how +extensive they were. + +"As to that," the Doctor explained, "I cannot speak positively, and I +doubt if there is any one who can. About three miles from Nagkon Wat +there are the ruins of a city which was known as Angkor, which was +evidently a very important city in its day. It was the capital of +Cambodia, and, according to the description of a Chinese official, who +visited it in the year 1295, it was something remarkable. It was then in +the height of its glory; but three hundred years later, when it was +visited by a Portuguese missionary, it was almost in ruins, and had +ceased to be of any consequence. Then there was another period of nearly +three hundred years in which nothing was heard of or from Angkor; it was +not till the year 1855 that any writer seems to have gone there, and as +for the Cambodians themselves, they are sublimely ignorant of the +history of this once great city. + +"In the year I last mentioned, M. Mouhot, a French explorer, passed +through Cambodia and made a careful survey and description of the ruins. +He subsequently died in the northern part of Siam, and it was feared +that the result of his labors would be lost, but fortunately his journal +was saved and has since been published. Since Mouhot's time several +persons have written about the ruins, so that a fair amount of knowledge +concerning them is accessible. But every year new remains are discovered +among the trees of the thick forest, and it is difficult to say when +all of the ancient walls and statues and temples will be brought to +light." + +At the conclusion of the Doctor's remarks, a servant entered with the +announcement that dinner was on the table. Thereupon the mental feast on +the antiquities of Eastern Asia was abandoned for the more practical +feast on the edible productions of the country. Frank thought that the +dinner would receive a high compliment if it proved as enjoyable as +their talk about Nagkon Wat and the ruins of Angkor--an opinion which +Fred lost no time in sharing. + +[Illustration: STONE WITH ANCIENT SCULPTURES.] + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +CAMBODIA.--ITS CAPITAL AND KING. + + +Having studied ancient Cambodia, Frank and Fred were desirous of +learning something of the modern country of that name. At the hotel +where they were stopping they found a gentleman who had recently been at +Panompin, the Cambodian capital, and had spent sufficient time there to +be able to give a good account of it. As soon as he found that his young +acquaintances were anxious to hear about Cambodia, he promptly consented +to enlighten them. + +He was at leisure one evening after dinner, and, by mutual consent, the +party gathered on the veranda in front of the hotel, and an hour was +pleasantly passed in conversation regarding the little-known country. + +[Illustration: A CAMBODIAN IDOL.] + +"If you think," said the gentleman, "that Panompin is a large city, as +one naturally thinks of the capital of a country, you would be greatly +disappointed if you went there. + +"Its population is not more than twenty or twenty-five thousand, and is +made up of several nationalities. There are Siamese, Chinese, Anamese, +and Manilla men among the inhabitants, as well as the native Cambodians, +and there are no long streets of fine buildings, such as you would +expect a capital to contain. It is situated on the banks of the Mesap, a +small river of Cambodia that empties into the Mekong: the greater part +of Panompin is on the right bank of the stream, but there is a small +portion of it on the opposite shore, and another on an island near the +junction of the Mesap with the Mekong. To locate it on the map, you +must put your finger at about latitude 11° 30' north, and longitude 105° +east, and if your map is a good one, you will find a large lake not far +off. + +[Illustration: FISHING-VILLAGE ON LAKE THALYSAP.] + +"This is Lake Thalysap, and it is a body of water of no small +importance. It is about ninety miles long, and varies from eight to +twenty-five miles in width. It is very shallow except in a few places, +and in the wet season the country around it is so flooded with water +that the lake is then a hundred miles and more in length. There are many +villages along the shores of the lake, and at all seasons of the year +you can see whole fleets of boats going to and fro over the water. Great +quantities of fish are caught in the lake, and those not intended to be +eaten in the vicinity are dried or salted for export to other parts of +Asia. There are also many fish caught for their oil; the villages along +the lake make a considerable business by preparing this oil, and the +stench is often so great that your nose will tell you the location of a +village before your eyes do. + +"In the lower part the lake narrows steadily until it forms a river, and +this river is the Mesap, which I have mentioned to you; consequently you +have only to follow the current to come to Panompin. It has only been +the capital within the last ten years; until that time the seat of +government was at Oodong, and the change was made on account of the +supposed unhealthiness of the latter place. The real fact is that +Panompin is better situated for commercial and political purposes, as it +is at the end of the great lake, and close by the River Mekong. If you +could see the two places you would understand it at once. + +"You can have little idea of the quantity of fish caught in the lake and +river till you see them. Lots of towns and villages are entirely +occupied with the fish business, and some of these towns contain as many +as four hundred houses, though the most of them are smaller. Some of the +fish are eight or ten feet long and three feet thick, and their bodies +are so full of oil that one of them is a good prize to his captor. It is +very funny to see a native struggling with one of these large fish; and +sometimes it requires a hard fight to bring him in. I have seen a man +dragged into the water and nearly drowned; and though I enjoyed the +performance, I presume it was no fun at all to the man. + +[Illustration: PANOMPIN, THE CAPITAL OF CAMBODIA.] + +"Panompin consists, for the most part, of bamboo huts, without much +pretence of architecture, and the streets are so bad that though the +king has several carriages he rarely rides out. The principal street is +about three miles in length, and somewhat irregular in its course, as +though the instruments of the surveyor who laid it out were not in the +best order. There are a few stores and shops of brick, and there are +some temples whose spires rise above the buildings that surround them. +The palace of the king is the finest edifice in the place; it was +designed by a French architect, and the construction was supervised by +him, but all the actual work was performed by natives. It is like a fine +dwelling-house in the neighborhood of New York or London, and the +internal arrangement of the rooms is entirely European in character. The +palace has some large halls for receptions, and it has dining-rooms, +sleeping-rooms, and all the usual apartments that a dwelling should +contain. The king lives there; and, as he rarely goes out, he determined +to have a residence as comfortable as could be made. He is very proud of +it; and if you should visit him he would consider it a great politeness +if you admired it all you possibly could--and a little more. + +"Not far from the king's palace is the barrack, where the French troops +are quartered for the preservation of order, and to see that the king +does nothing that would be against the interest of his protectors. There +is generally a French gun-boat or two lying in the river opposite the +barracks, and in the river farther down there are two or three small +gun-boats and steamers that belong to the king, and are kept near his +palace. + +"As the city has so much dependence on the river for its support, there +is a tendency on the part of the inhabitants to crowd near the stream; +consequently Panompin stretches about three miles along the bank, and +less than half a mile away from it. This is where you find the street I +have mentioned; it is not more than thirty feet wide, and paved with a +concrete mass of broken brick mixed with sand. You find a straggling +line of low huts of bamboo or other light material along the whole +length of this street, and in the busy hours of the day the assemblage +of people is pretty dense. The Chinese are great gamblers, and a goodly +portion of these huts are gambling-shops, whose proprietors pay a +license for the privilege of running the business. In several of these +Eastern countries the money received from gambling forms an important +item in the public revenue; and if it should be stopped, the treasury +would suffer in consequence." + +"What an outrageous piece of business!" said Frank. "To think that a +government would derive any part of its revenue from gambling!" + +"But remember we are in Asia," Fred remarked; "and we can't expect these +people to be civilized." + +The Doctor smiled at this outburst of indignation, and when it was ended +he reminded the boys that several governments of Europe did exactly what +they thought so reprehensible when done by Asiatics. + +"Not governments of any consequence," said Frank. + +"Well," answered the Doctor, "I hardly think we could say that. Italy, +Spain, and Austria are certainly of some consequence, and in all of them +the lottery, which is a form of gambling, is a government institution. +It is only a few years ago that the gambling-tables at Baden-Baden, in +Germany, were stopped, and there was serious talk, at the time, of +allowing the gamblers that were suppressed in Germany to open their +business at Geneva, in Switzerland. + +"And furthermore," Doctor Bronson continued, "we cannot throw many +stones at the Chinese and other Eastern people for gambling when we have +so much of it in America. In all our large cities the vice exists in +defiance of the law; and in some of the States, particularly in Kentucky +and Louisiana, the lottery is a recognized institution, and the drawings +are supervised by officers appointed by the governor." + +Frank and Fred both declared that this information was new to them, and +hereafter they would not be too hasty to condemn other countries, lest +they might find that the thing they objected to prevailed in their own. + +The description of Panompin was resumed: + +"There are some manufactures in the Cambodian capital," their informant +continued, "but they are not numerous. The people are famous for their +manufactures of silk, which is an important article of export, both in +its raw and in its finished state. They are skilful workers of gold and +silver, and I could show you some exquisite specimens of their +production. Wait a moment and I will bring one." + +[Illustration: SPECIMEN OF CAMBODIAN GOLD-WORK.] + +He went to his room, which was situated just off the veranda, and +returned in a few moments with a small box resembling a flattened +orange, or, more properly, a melon. The boys took it to the light, and +examined it with care. + +The gold, as well as the workmanship, was Cambodian; some of it was the +natural color of the metal, and other parts were stained to various +degrees of redness. On the top there was a cluster of leaves, and the +end of the stem contained a topaz, which had been purposely left +unfinished. + +The leaves were in fine filigree, and some of the wires were so delicate +that they resembled golden hairs. The whole surface of the box was +covered with flowers and leaves in the most tasteful designs; and both +the boys were of opinion that the jewellers of New York would not find +it easy to imitate this production of the Asiatic barbarians. + +"The king has a fine collection of these things," the gentleman +continued, "and he generally gives one of them to any stranger of +importance who visits him. It is lucky for his treasury that it is not +easy to go to Panompin, as otherwise he might find these presents a +serious expense. + +[Illustration: THE KING OF CAMBODIA.] + +"And if you wish to know about the king, here is his photograph. You +perceive that it is taken in European dress, which he wears on grand +occasions, and has adopted since the French Protectorate was established +in Cambodia. He is an amiable gentleman of pleasing manners, and makes +an agreeable impression on those who come in contact with him. He has +quite a collection of English and French books, maps, and albums, and is +fond of showing them; and he has a fine lot of Japanese and Chinese +vases--enough to stock a fair-sized museum. Then he has European clocks, +music-boxes, and the like; and he has a billiard-table, on which he +plays very well. He also has a piano, but those who have heard him +perform on it say that he is better at billiards than at music. + +"The carpets, furniture, and other adornments of his palace are mostly +from Europe, but he has some fine specimens of native embroidery that +are fully equal to any of his foreign importations. He sleeps in a bed +of European manufacture, and the netting that protects him from +mosquitoes is from an English or French loom. He has travelled to +Hong-kong and Shanghai, where he spent much time in learning all he +could about the productions of the western part of the world, and, on +his return, he endeavored to give his people the benefit of his +knowledge. He is much liked by his people; and, on the whole, they could +hardly hope for a better ruler. + +[Illustration: QUEEN OF CAMBODIA AND ROYAL CHILDREN.] + +"The Queen of Cambodia, like most of the Asiatic queens, is rarely seen +in public. She has not adopted the foreign dress, but adheres to the +_panoung_, a sort of loose wrapper falling a little below the knees, and +gathered at the centre. Here is her portrait, with two of the royal +children; and you will observe that she wears heavy anklets of gold, and +does not think it necessary to cover her feet with shoes. Her hair is +cut in the national way, and sticks up in the centre like a shoe-brush. +Great importance is attached to the ceremony of hair-cutting when a +royal child reaches the age of seven years, and it is generally +performed by the king himself in the presence of all the dignitaries of +the land." + +"What a funny idea!" said Fred, "that the king shall act as a barber, +and handle the shears over the head of one of his children. I wonder if +he is as skilful as a regular professional?" + +"As to that," was the reply, "I presume it does not make much +difference. He only takes off a lock or two, and the hair-dresser of the +palace does the rest. You will hear more of this curious ceremony when +you get to Siam, as the custom prevails there no less than in Cambodia. + +"In Panompin there is an artificial mound, which is called for +politeness' sake a mountain, where the hair-cutting ceremony is +performed. It stands near the palace, and is as high as the building +itself. It is built partly of earth and partly of bamboo, and the sides +are colored so as to represent stone, silver, and gold, the last color +being near the top. A winding path leads up to a platform on the summit, +and here the king stands while he goes through the solemnities of the +occasion. The path goes through tunnels and arches, and occasional +grottoes and valleys, and the whole structure is intended to represent a +mountain in miniature. The platform is a favorite resort of the king in +the evening, as the air is generally cooler there than on the ground +below, and not infrequently he meets his ministers on the top of the +mountain to discuss matters of public importance. + +"But it is getting late, and I think I have told you as much about +Panompin and the King of Cambodia as you will be likely to remember. So +I will say good-night." + +The boys thanked the gentleman for his kindness, and the Doctor added +his acknowledgments to theirs. Then the party separated. + +Frank and Fred sat up till their eyelids were heavy to take down in +writing a summary of what they had heard. They realized the necessity of +making their notes at once, through fear that if they waited till the +next day something would be forgotten. Frank wrote the description of +Panompin and the country generally; and Fred devoted himself to the +royal family, the scenes in the palace, and the curious story of cutting +the youthful hair. Thus the labor was divided to the satisfaction of +both. + +In the morning the Doctor informed them that they were to depart that +day for Siam. The steamer _Danube_ had arrived, and her captain had been +early on shore to arrange for the delivery of what cargo was to be +landed, and to receive what he should take away. He did not expect to be +long in port, and they must be prepared to leave at a few hours' notice. + +Their baggage was put in readiness, and the rest of the time on shore +was devoted to the preparation of letters for America. The French mail +steamer from Singapore was due that day on her way to Hong-kong and +Shanghai, and when she left she carried a goodly budget from the boys. +In due time the letters were safely delivered; and for a fortnight there +was little else talked of in the Bassett and Bronson households than the +adventures of Frank and Fred, in Cochin China. + +[Illustration: THE HARBOR OF OODONG, CAMBODIA.] + +The boys made good use of their time up to the last moment. Fred found a +copy of the book of M. Mouhot, who has been mentioned heretofore, and +the last hour of his stay in Saigon was devoted to writing out the +description which that gentleman gives of Oodong, the former capital of +Cambodia. The visit of M. Mouhot was made in 1860, and is thus +described: + +"On approaching the capital the prospect becomes more diversified; we +passed fields of rice, cottages encircled by fruit-gardens, and +country-houses belonging to the Cambodian aristocracy, who come here in +the evening for the sake of breathing a purer air than they can find in +the city. As we drew closer to the gates, I found the place to be +protected by a palisade three metres high--about ten feet. The houses +are built of bamboo or planks, and the market-place occupied by the +Chinese is as dirty as all the others of which I have made mention. The +largest street, or, rather, the only one, is about a mile in length; and +in the environs reside the agriculturists, as well as the mandarins and +other government officers. The entire population numbers about twelve +thousand. + +[Illustration: A GIRL OF OODONG.] + +"The many Cambodians living in the immediate vicinity, and still more +the number of chiefs who resort to Oodong for business or pleasure, or +are passing through it on their way from one province to another, +contribute to give animation to the capital. Every moment I met +mandarins, either borne in litters or on foot, followed by a crowd of +slaves carrying various articles; some yellow or scarlet parasols, more +or less according to the rank of the person; others, boxes with betel. I +also encountered horsemen mounted on pretty, spirited animals, richly +caparisoned and covered with bells, ambling along, while a troop of +attendants, covered with dust and sweltering with heat, ran after them. +Light carts, drawn by a couple of small oxen, trotting along rapidly and +noiselessly, were here and there to be seen. Occasionally a large +elephant passed majestically by. On this side were numerous processions +to the pagoda, marching to the sound of music; there, again, was a band +of ecclesiastics in single file, seeking alms, draped in their yellow +cloaks, and with the holy vessels on their backs." + +[Illustration: HOUSE IN THE SUBURBS.] + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +DEPARTURE FROM SAIGON.--VISITING A CHINESE JUNK. + + +When the party went on board the _Danube_, the boys found that they were +not to have the comforts of the great steamers that had brought them +from Shanghai and Hong-kong. The _Danube_ was a small ship, and her +builders did not design her for carrying passengers; she was constructed +in England, and, after she arrived in China, a little cabin was built on +her deck, so that a couple of passengers might have a room to share +between them. The dining-saloon was about six feet long, and as many +wide, and its cushioned sofas could be used as beds. Consequently, she +could carry four passengers with comparative comfort, and, in +emergencies, another could sleep on the table when the sea was smooth, +or under it in rough weather. The captain was a jolly Englishman, who +gave a hearty greeting to the American strangers, and before they had +been ten minutes on board they felt quite at home. Their heavy baggage +was sent below, and there was plenty of room under the bunks in the +cabin for stowing all the articles they needed on the voyage. + +The _Danube_ moved from her anchorage and turned her prow down the +river. + +"Hurrah!" shouted Frank, "now we are off for Siam." + +Fred joined his cousin in raising a cheer. + +"Don't be in too great a hurry," said Captain Clanchy, "we are not off +yet. We are to go along-side that Chinese junk you see just at the bend +of the river, and will take some cargo from her. We shall probably be +two or three hours about it, and then we will be off for Siam." + +Frank's face fell at this intelligence, but only for a moment. + +"We shall have an opportunity of seeing a junk and going on board of +it," he remarked, "and that will repay us a dozen times over for the +delay." + +Fred was equally happy at the prospect, and both the boys were impatient +to be on the deck of the strange craft. + +[Illustration: A CHINESE JUNK.] + +In a little while their wishes were gratified, and they were able to +step from the _Danube_ to the great junk. Before they did so Fred +suggested that he had just thought why these Chinese ships were called +junks. + +"Why is it?" Frank asked. + +"Because," was the reply, "you can see from the shape of them how they +are built. The Chinese make a ship a mile or two long, and when they +want one they cut off a junk, or chunk, just as you like to spell it. +Then they stick masts into it, and it is ready to sail away. It is +square at both ends, and resembles a chunk out of a log more than +anything else." + +There was a laugh all around at Fred's humorous description of the +Chinese process of shipbuilding, and by the time the joke had ceased to +amuse they were ready to go over the side. Captain Clanchy accompanied +them, and pointed out several objects of interest that otherwise might +have escaped their attention. + +"You observe," said the captain, "that the deck of the junk is lumbered +up with all sorts of stuff. How the men manage to get around is a +mystery, and it is a wonder that they can keep the craft on her course +with everything in such confusion." + +The boys were equally puzzled, and thought there must be a good many +junks lost every year. The captain said such was the case; but, on the +other hand, there was such a great number of these craft that a few more +or less made no perceptible difference. + +"Except to the owners and the men that are lost with the junks," +remarked the Doctor. "It must be a very serious affair to them." + +"Sometimes these junks last to a great age," the captain continued. +"There are junks now navigating the China seas that are more than a +hundred years old; at least so I am informed." + +"How long have the Chinese had this model for their ships?" Frank asked +of the captain. + +"Nobody knows how long," was the reply. "We are ignorant of the early +history of China, and can only guess at many things. But we have reason +to believe that the Chinese were the first people that ever built ships +to be propelled by the force of the wind alone. They began with the +model they now have, and have stuck to it ever since." + +"Where is the captain of this junk?" Fred asked. "I would like to see +him." + +"She has probably half a dozen captains," Clanchy replied; "perhaps a +dozen." + +"A dozen captains! how can that be?" + +"They build these junks in compartments," said the Doctor, in response +to Fred's inquiry, "and each compartment has a captain." + +[Illustration: OUTLINE OF MODERN SHIP, SHOWING COMPARTMENTS.] + +"I thought the plan of building ships in compartments was of modern +invention, and had only been applied to ocean steamers in the last +thirty years. Seems to me I heard so," Frank remarked. + +"In one sense you are right," the Doctor answered; "it is only about +thirty years ago that the English and American ship-builders began the +adoption of this principle. Nearly all the great steamers now navigating +the Atlantic Ocean are divided into compartments--generally five or six; +and even should two of these spaces become filled with water from any +accident, the ship will continue to float. Several steamers have been +saved after collision with icebergs, or with other ships, by reason of +being thus constructed. Had they been of the old model, they would have +infallibly gone to the bottom. + +"But the Chinese are ahead of us, as they have built their ships in this +way for centuries. Six hundred years ago Marco Polo visited the East, +and on his return wrote a book about the country and people. He +describes the compartment ships that the Chinese built at that time, and +explains their advantages. The wonder is that it took the European +builders so long to copy the idea. Not till well into this century was +it adopted." + +"But how about the half-dozen captains?" Fred asked. "Why should a ship +like this have so many, when the _Great Eastern_ or the _City of +Chester_ can get along with one?" + +"The way of it is," said Captain Clanchy, "that the junk has a lot of +compartments--anyway from six to a dozen--and each compartment is let +out to a merchant. He is captain of that compartment and all it +contains; and if there are ten compartments, he is one-tenth captain of +the whole. The crew is under a chief who gets his orders from the +merchants, and they have a great deal to say as to how the junk shall +sail. Sometimes they want her to go to half a dozen places at once, and +in as many directions, and not infrequently they get into frightful rows +about it. Don't understand me to say that this is always the case, or +anything like it, as a good many of their junks are managed pretty much +as an English ship would be. We will see how the matter stands on this +one." + +A little inquiry revealed the fact that there were two men on board +equally interested in the cargo, and with equal authority over the +movements of the junk. But they were evidently working in perfect +harmony, and so there was no chance that the strangers would be +compelled to witness a row among the commanders. + +[Illustration: A JUNK SAILOR AT BREAKFAST.] + +The boys found the deck of the junk covered with a very complex +arrangement of ropes, windlasses, tubs, and baskets. Some of the crew +were sitting around waiting for orders, and others were at breakfast. As +soon as the _Danube_ was made fast along-side, they were set at work to +remove the cargo from one of the compartments and transfer it to the +steamer. The steamer's crew assisted in the work, and in a little while +it was accomplished. During this time the great sail of matting was +flapping against the mast, and the ropes were swinging as though they +would become hopelessly entangled. But no accident happened; and when +the _Danube_ had moved away, the sails were run up and the junk began to +push slowly through the water. This gave the boys an opportunity to see +her general shape and mode of construction. + +They found that she was built of heavy planking, and that many of the +planks retained the shape of the tree from which they were taken. These +planks, as they were told, were fastened together by wooden tree-nails; +in fact, there was very little metal about the fastenings; and, as a +further security, there were a good many lashings of ropes to hold the +outside timbers to the frame. The stern rose high out of water, and was +cut off square, and the same was the case with the bow. The funniest +thing was a pair of great staring eyes, to enable the ship to see her +way, and to frighten off the demons that infest the waters and have a +particular hostility to sailors. Every boat and ship of Chinese +construction is provided with eyes, and the larger the eye the better +the craft can take care of herself. + +[Illustration: CHINESE RIVER BOAT.] + +The junk in question had three masts, and there was a gay assortment of +flags and streamers flying from them. The mat sails were held up by a +great many ropes--there being a rope to each section where the bamboo +poles ran across. There was a great advantage in this arrangement, as it +enabled the sailors to shorten sail in case of an increasing wind by +simply lowering it till one of the sections could be taken in. And when +they wish to furl the sail altogether, they have only to let go and the +whole thing comes "down with a run." The construction of the sails can +be better understood by reference to the picture here presented of a +boat such as the Chinese use for river navigation. + +As the _Danube_ steamed on down the river and out to sea the +conversation between the boys and Doctor Bronson turned very naturally +upon ships and their peculiarities. + +[Illustration: SHIP OF THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY.] + +"The difference between us and the Chinese in the matter of ships is +that we have progressed, while they have remained stationary. Their +junks are of the same pattern as they were a thousand years ago, while +we are making changes every year. Look at a picture of a European ship +of the fourteenth century, and see how closely it resembles a Chinese +junk. Both the bow and stern are very far out of water, and the +arrangement of the sails is quite Chinese in its character. About the +year 1520 the English built a war ship which they called the _The Great +Harry_, and it was considered a wonderful specimen of naval +architecture. Who would venture to sail in her now, and how long would +it take a war steamer of 1880 to send her to the bottom? Compare _The +Great Harry_ with the _Tennessee_, which is one of the recent American +ships, and observe the progress that has been made in three centuries +and a half. The bow and stern have been brought to a level, and the +shape of the hull is such that the ship glides through the water +instead of ploughing over it. Navigators have found that the ship that +makes the least 'fuss' while in motion is the best, and they have +devoted a great deal of study to finding the proper shape for the least +resistance." + +[Illustration: "THE GREAT HARRY."] + +"Yes," remarked Captain Clanchy, who was standing near, "and it took +them a long time to find that the shape of the stern of a ship was +almost as important as that of her bow, in regulating her speed. A +square stern makes a great boiling and depression in the water, while a +long tapering stern allows the water to close silently and with the +least possible resistance. You can easily illustrate what I mean by +taking a stick of wood that is square at both ends, and tying a string +to it so as to drag it endwise in the water. You find that it moves +easier when the forward end is sharpened than when both ends are blunt, +and then if you sharpen both of them you find it moves still more +easily. This is what the naval architects were a long time discovering, +and the most of them are wondering why they did not think of it before." + +[Illustration: THE "TENNESSEE."] + +"Then, too," said Doctor Bronson, "it was found that by lengthening a +ship of the old model a great deal was gained. This has been done in the +last ten or fifteen years, and many of the steamers now running between +New York and England have been lengthened in this way. They have not +been built on at either end, but have been cut in two in the centre, and +had a new section built in. A ship to be lengthened would be placed on +the ways, and then cut open in the middle. If she was to be extended a +hundred feet, the two ends would be drawn apart for that distance, and +then the space would be filled up. She might be two hundred feet long +when taken on the ways, and without any change of bow or stern her +length would be increased to three hundred feet. With this addition to +her tonnage she is much more valuable than before, and her original +speed can be maintained with only a small addition to her power. Then +there have recently been great improvements in the construction of +engines; and I think it safe to say that what with changes in length, +engines, and some other things, a ship of a given number of tons can be +run for half the expense that was required twenty years ago. Steam +navigation is now so economical that it is rapidly driving sailing +vessels from the ocean. The number of sailing ships on long voyages is +diminishing every year, and that of steamers is increasing." + +"What is the greatest speed that steamers can make nowadays, with all +these improvements?" Frank asked. + +"There is much dispute," Doctor Bronson replied, "over the performances +of ships at sea, and it is not at all easy to get at the actual facts. +Take the great steam lines between New York and Liverpool, and there are +two or three of them that claim to have done better than any of their +rivals. The managers of the White Star Line can show that their ships +have made the voyage quicker than the Inman steamers, and the Inman +managers can as readily prove that their ships have surpassed all +others. There are several steamers afloat that have made more than four +hundred miles in twenty-four hours, but they can only do it when all the +circumstances are favorable. There are many men who believe that +steamers will be built before the end of this century that will make +five hundred miles in a day, and if we judge of the future by the past, +I see no reason to doubt that the feat will be accomplished. We may yet +come to the speed of a railway train on the water, and more than one +inventor believes that he can do so. The prediction that we will yet +cross the Atlantic in three days is no wilder than would have been the +prediction, at the beginning of this century, that we could travel on +land or sea at our present rate, and that intelligence could be flashed +along a wire in a few seconds of time from one end of the world to the +other. The railway, the ocean steamer, the telegraph, the telephone, +and many other things that seem almost commonplace to us, would have +been regarded as the emanations of a crazy brain a hundred years ago." + +"Perhaps," said Fred, "the year 3000 may find us travelling in the air +as freely as we now travel on land." + +[Illustration: THE PUBLIC HIGHWAY OF THE FUTURE.] + +"Not at all impossible," the Doctor answered. "We, or our descendants, +may be able to go through the air at will, and show the birds that we +can do as much as they can. Not long ago I was reading a sketch which +was supposed to be written a thousand years hence. The writer describes +his travels, and gives a picture of the public highway. An omnibus +supported by balloons, and drawn by a pair of them--harnessed as we +would harness horses--is represented on its way through the air. The +driver is on his box and the conductor at the door, while the passengers +are looking out of the windows. A bird, who has doubtless become +thoroughly familiar with the aërial craft, has seized the hat of a +passenger and flies away with it, and the victim of the theft is vainly +stretching his hands towards his property. Balloons are sailing through +the air, and in one a man is seated, who is evidently out for a day's +sport. He has a rod and line, and is industriously occupied in birding, +just as one might engage in fishing from the side of a boat. A string of +birds hangs from the seat of his conveyance, and he is in the act of +taking a fresh prize at the end of his line. + +[Illustration: THE BOMB FERRY.] + +"There is another picture representing the ferry of the future. It +consists of an enormous mortar, from which a couple of bombs have been +fired; they are connected by a chain, and each bomb is large enough to +contain several persons. The passengers are supposed to be quite +comfortable, and to be whizzed through the air at the speed of a +cannon-shot." + +"But, of course, such a thing is impossible," said Fred; "nobody could +stand it to be shot through a tube at that rate." + +"But something very much like it has been proposed in all seriousness; a +few years ago an inventor in New York had a scheme for a line of tube +four or five feet in diameter, and extending to the principal cities of +the land. His cars were to consist of hollow globes or spheres, and they +were to be propelled at a very rapid rate by exhausting the air in front +of them. His plan was regarded as quite visionary, but it is not at all +impossible that it may yet come into use. Small pneumatic tubes are in +successful operation for the transmission of letters and little parcels; +and in London there is a tube four feet in diameter from the General +Post-office to a railway station more than two miles away. The mail-bags +are transported through this tube, and on several occasions men have +taken their places in the carriages and enjoyed the sensation of this +novel mode of travel." + +[Illustration: MOONLIGHT AT SEA IN THE TROPICS.] + +The steamer held her tortuous way down the Mekong, and at length she +passed the light-house and went out to sea. The weather was delightful, +though a trifle warm, and the three passengers found the cabin +oppressive at times on account of the closeness of the atmosphere. A +good deal of their time was passed on deck both by day and by night, +and, as the moon was then at the full, the night on deck was thoroughly +enjoyable. Occasionally they were joined by the captain, and, as he +possessed a good fund of marine stories, the boys picked up a great deal +of information of a varied character. As they were bound for Siam, they +overhauled their trunks for all the books they possessed on that +country, and happily they found several volumes in the captain's library +that were of use to them. Among them was the account of Marco Polo and +his travels in the East. What our friends found in the work in question +we will reserve for the next chapter. + +[Illustration: A STORY OF THE SEA.] + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +THE WONDERFUL STORY OF MARCO POLO. + + +[Illustration: MARCO POLO.] + +"What do you make out of Marco Polo's book?" said the Doctor to the +boys, after they had devoted a sufficient time to its perusal. + +"We find it very interesting," Frank replied. "The style is quaint, and +the information it contains is curious. Evidently it is a true story, +and the man must have actually gone over the ground he describes, or it +would never be so accurate." + +"It is some time since I read it," responded Doctor Bronson, "and +perhaps you had best tell me about it. By so doing you will refresh my +memory, and at the same time fix the information in your own minds." + +Thus encouraged, the boys proceeded to tell the story of Marco Polo to +Doctor Bronson, just as though he had never heard it. The Doctor was a +patient listener, and both Frank and Fred showed, by the completeness of +their account, that they had thoroughly read the book. + +"To begin with," said Frank, "Marco Polo was a Venetian adventurer. His +father was named Nicolo Polo, and he--Marco--had an uncle named Maffeo. +Marco was born in the year 1254, and six years later his father and +uncle started on a journey to Constantinople and the southern part of +Russia. They were merchants, and their business carried them into +Central Asia, and then to Cathay, where they spent some time with the +khan, or emperor, of that country." + +"And what is Cathay?" said Dr. Bronson, with a smile. + +"Cathay is the ancient name for China," Fred answered, "and even to-day +it is sometimes called so. Do you remember how Tennyson, in one of his +poems, says, + + "'Better fifty years of Europe than a cycle of Cathay;' + +"and I am sure you once told me that the Russian name of China is +'Kitie,' with the accent on the last syllable. That is pretty near the +sound of Cathay, and undoubtedly came from it." + +"Quite correct," the Doctor responded; "you have a good memory both for +facts and poetry." + +"Kublai-Khan, the Emperor of Cathay," Frank continued, "had never before +seen a gentleman from Europe. He was delighted with the Venetians, and +greatly interested in the stories they told him about Europe and its +countries and customs. How long they remained there we do not know, but +it is certain that the emperor, Kublai-Khan, determined to send them as +ambassadors to the Pope, who was then the greatest monarch of Europe. +Accordingly, he wrote letters to the Pope asking him to send a large +number of educated missionaries to Cathay to convert the people to +Christianity. These he intrusted to the two Polos, and sent with them an +officer of his own court. + +[Illustration: THE GREAT KHAN DELIVERING A TABLET TO THE ELDER POLO +BROTHERS. + +(From a Miniature of the Fourteenth Century.)] + +"Before they started on their mission he gave them a golden tablet, upon +which there was inscribed an order for them to receive everything they +might desire for their comfort and convenience in the countries through +which they might pass; and his last order to them was 'to bring back to +him some oil of the lamp which burns on the sepulchre of our Lord at +Jerusalem.' On the road the Tartar prince who accompanied them fell +sick, and they were obliged to leave him behind. If the truth were +known, it is quite probable he did not wish to make the journey, and was +glad of an excuse for avoiding it. + +[Illustration: ARMS OF THE POLO FAMILY.] + +"In 1269 the brothel's arrived at Acre, in Palestine, and found that the +Pope, Clement IV., had died the year before, and no new one had been +chosen. So they went to Venice to see how matters stood in that city, +and to get some news of their families. Nicolo found that his wife had +died during his absence, and his son Marco was a fine youth of fifteen +years. + +"They waited at Venice for two years; but the College of Cardinals could +not agree on a new Pope, and consequently the Church was without any +head to whom they could deliver their letters. Fearing that the Great +Khan would be displeased at their long absence, and believe them +faithless to their trust, they determined to return to him and explain +the state of affairs. Accordingly, they started in 1271, taking young +Marco with them, and in due time were once more at Acre. Before they +left the coast for the interior, they learned that a new Pope had been +chosen. The man on whom the choice fell was then in Syria, and so they +were able to carry out the khan's commission, and get a reply. But he +was only able to give them two priests to accompany them to Cathay, and +these soon found a reason for declining to go to the strange land. So +the three Polos set out alone for the dominions of the Great Khan. + +[Illustration: NICOLO POLO, FATHER OF MARCO.] + +"With the letters, presents from the Pope to the khan, and the holy oil +from Jerusalem, they took the route by Sivas, Mosul, and Bagdad to +Hormuz, where they turned north and went through Bokhara, Persia, and +by way of Kashgar, Yarkand, and Khoten. Then they went to the desert of +Gobi, and, after crossing it, reached the territories of the khan near +the great wall of China. They had been three years and a half on the +journey, and the date of their arrival at the khan's court is supposed +to be 1275. + +"The khan was greatly pleased to see them, and he was especially +delighted with young Marco, to whom he seemed to take very kindly. +Marco, in his turn, sought to win the favor of the emperor by making +himself as useful as possible; he studied the Oriental languages, and in +a little while he could speak and write no less than four of them. + +"The emperor soon began to employ him in the public service, and he +acquitted himself so well that he was sent in charge of missions to +distant countries. His first mission was to the province of Yunnan, and +in going there he was obliged to pass through several other provinces. +He had noticed, during his stay at court, that the emperor was very fond +of hearing about strange countries and their manners and customs, and so +he took good care to bring back as much information as possible. The +khan complimented him for his learning, and found him a great contrast +to the commissioners, who could never tell anything except the business +on which they had gone. + +"We don't know much about the details of his employment while he was at +the court of the emperor," said Frank, "but we are told that he was for +three years governor of the great city of Yangtchoo; and we also learn +that he was in Tangut for a year or more, and that he went on missions +to Mongolia, to Cochin China, and other regions, and commanded +expeditions to the Indian seas. What his father and uncle were doing all +this time we do not know, except that the evidence shows they were +making themselves rich. Perhaps they were able to obtain good contracts +through the influence of Marco; and if they could get a monopoly of +government contracts for a few years, they would have no difficulty in +piling up a large fortune. + +"Thus they remained at the court of the khan for eleven years, and +by-and-by they wanted to go home and enjoy their wealth. But the khan +would not listen to it, and perhaps they would never have been heard of +again if it had not been for an accident. + +"Arghun-Khan of Persia, a great-nephew of Kublai-Khan, had lost his +wife, and her dying injunction was that her place should be filled by a +lady of her own kin--the Mongol tribe of Bayaut. An embassy came to +Kublai's court with the request, and the choice fell on Lady Kukachin, +who is described as a most beautiful woman. The overland road to Persia +was considered dangerous, and it was determined to send her by sea. +Accordingly, the khan fitted out an expedition in fine style, and, as +the Venetians were well acquainted with navigation, while the Tartars +were ignorant of it, the khan concluded to send the Polos with the +fleet. He was reluctant to let them go; but having once determined to do +so, he gave them a great many fine presents, and intrusted them with +messages to the various sovereigns of Europe, including the King of +England. They appear to have sailed from the Port of Zayton in the early +part of 1292. The voyage was long and unfortunate, and the greater part +of the embassy and suite perished on the way. The lady and the three +Venetians arrived safely in Persia, where it was found that her intended +husband had died, and so she was compelled to marry his son. + +[Illustration: PORTRAIT OF KUBLAI-KHAN. + +(From a Chinese engraving.)] + +"As soon as their mission had ended, the Polos proceeded to Venice, +which they reached in the year 1295. Their long absence had caused them +to be well-nigh forgotten, and very few people could be found who +remembered anything about the Polos. They had changed much in their +complexions, had almost forgotten their own language; all their +utterances had a decidedly Tartar accent; and they were so +travel-stained and shabby that they had difficulty in being received in +their own house, which was now occupied by relatives. + +"In order to establish their identity, the wanderers invited their +relatives to a grand banquet. When the time came for sitting down at +table, the three appeared in robes of crimson satin; a little later they +exchanged these for robes of crimson damask, and these again for the +richest velvet of the same color. Afterwards they dressed in clothing +like that of the rest of the company, and each of the crimson robes, as +soon as it was laid aside, was cut up and given to the servants. + +"Just as the dinner was breaking up, Marco rose from the table and +retired for a moment. When he returned, he brought the shabby dresses +they had worn on their arrival, and the three Polos then went to work +with knives to rip open these apparently worthless garments. As they cut +away the seams, showers of great diamonds of the purest water, and also +emeralds, pearls, rubies, sapphires, and carbuncles, fell on the table. + +"There could be no further doubt about the relationship; everybody at +table was ready to swear that he was father, son, and brother all at +once to any of the trio. Relatives poured in on them in great numbers, +and all Venice rushed to do them honor. They were appointed to offices +of high trust, and the young men of Venice came to hear Marco tell of +the wonders he had seen in his long absence. They were the most popular +men in the city, and received more invitations to dinner than they could +accept. + +"There is a tradition that the wife of one of the Polos one day gave a +beggar an old coat belonging to her husband, as she considered it too +shabby for him to wear any longer. When he asked for it the next day, in +order to put away the jewels it contained, she told him she had given it +to a poor man whom she did not know. The tradition says, 'He went to the +Bridge of Rialto, and stood there turning a wheel, to no apparent +purpose, but as if he were a madman; and to all who crowded around to +see what prank was this, and asked him why he did it, he answered, +"He'll come, if God pleases." So, after two or three days, he recognized +his old coat on the back of one of those who came to stare at his mad +proceeding, and got it back again. + +[Illustration: MARCO POLO'S GALLEY IN BATTLE.] + +"Soon after his return, an expedition was sent from Venice against +Genoa, and Marco was placed in command of one of the ships or galleys. A +great battle was fought; the Venetians were defeated; Marco was +captured, placed in irons, and lodged in a prison at Genoa. While in +captivity, he told the story of his travels to a fellow-prisoner named +Rusticiano or Rustichello, of Pisa, and the latter committed it to +writing. It was fortunate for us, though not so for him, that Marco Polo +was in prison, as otherwise we might never have had an account of his +travels. After his release, he led a quiet life at Venice, and seems to +have died not far from the year 1325. He was buried in the Church of San +Lorenzo; but all trace of his tomb was lost when that edifice was +rebuilt. + +"Now it is Fred's turn," said Frank; "I have told the history of Marco +Polo, and shown why and how he went to the East; Fred will give you an +account of what the great traveller saw in his absence from Europe of +nearly twenty years." + +Fred drew his note-book from his pocket and proceeded to his share of +the entertainment. + +"Marco Polo's work," said Fred, "consists of four divisions or books and +a prologue. The prologue opens as follows: + +"'Great princes, emperors, and kings, dukes and marquises, counts, +knights, and burgesses, and people of all degrees, who desire to get +knowledge of the various races of mankind, and of the diversities of the +sundry regions of the world, take this book and cause it to be read to +you. For ye shall find therein all kinds of wonderful things, and the +divers histories of the great Hermenia, and of Persia, and of the land +of the Tartars, and of India, and of many another country of which our +book doth speak particularly, and in regular succession, according to +the description of Messer Marco Polo, a wise and noble citizen of +Venice, as he saw them with his own eyes. Some things, indeed, there be +therein which he beheld not; but these he heard from men of credit and +veracity. And we shall set down things seen as seen, and things heard as +heard only, so that no jot of falsehood may mar the truth of our book; +and that all who read it or hear it read may put full faith in the truth +of all its contents.' + +"It is hardly worth while to read the whole prologue to you," Fred +remarked, "as it is long, and we can only give a general glance at the +contents of the whole work. A great many editions of the travels of +Marco Polo have been published; the most valuable of all is the latest, +which is by Colonel Yule, an English officer who spent a long time in +India. He has made a careful study of the subject, and his work, with +explanatory notes, is as complete as years of labor could make it. +Indeed, there are more pages taken up with the explanatory notes than +with the original text of Marco Polo. + +"The four divisions or books give an account of the various countries he +visited in his years of wandering, and of the wonderful sights he +beheld. The route he followed can be traced by geographers without +difficulty, and the cities he visited have most of them been identified. +Many have had their names changed, and some have disappeared altogether, +so that in a few instances the localities are in dispute. But, taken as +a whole, the story is a truthful one, and shows Marco Polo to have been +the greatest traveller of his time. + +"Some of the stories that seem at first to be the wildest fiction are +known to be founded in fact, if not literally correct. In speaking of +Syria, he says: 'There is a great lake at the foot of a mountain, and in +this lake are found no fish, great or small, throughout the whole year +till Lent comes. On the first day of Lent they find in it the finest +fish in the world, and great store, too, thereof; and these continue to +be found till Easter-eve. After that they are found no more till Lent +comes round again; and so 'tis every year.' + +"Colonel Yule is unable to locate the particular lake mentioned, but +says there are several lakes in different parts of the East that are +deserted by the fish for certain periods of the year. It would not be at +all strange if such were the case, and a very little exaggeration of the +story would make the fish appear in Lent, and go away at other times. + +[Illustration: ALAU SHUTS UP THE CALIPH OF BAUDAS IN HIS +TREASURE-TOWER.] + +"While describing Baudas--the modern Bagdad--he tells how an army, under +Prince Alau, captured the city, and found the greatest accumulation of +treasure that ever was known. The prince was enraged at seeing so much +wealth, and asked the caliph why he did not take the money to hire +soldiers to defend the city. 'The caliph,' says Marco, 'wist not what to +answer, and said never a word. So the prince continued, "Now then, +caliph, since I see what a love thou hast borne thy treasure, I will +e'en give it thee to eat." So he shut the caliph up in the +treasure-tower, and bade that neither meat nor drink should be given +him, saying, "Now, caliph, eat of thy treasure as much as thou wilt, +since thou art so fond of it, for never shalt thou have aught else to +eat!"' + +"So the caliph lingered four days in the tower, and then died. The story +has been used by several poets both in England and America, and it has +been made the basis of an Eastern romance. + +"Some of the more fanciful stories he tells are about the men of Lambri, +and of Angamanain. Here is what he says of the former: + +"'Now you must know that in this kingdom of Lambri there are men with +tails; these tails are of a palm in length, and have no hair on them. +These people live in the mountains, and are a kind of wild men. Their +tails are about the thickness of a dog's. There are also plenty of +unicorns in the country, and abundance of game in birds and beasts.' + +"The story is not very definite," Frank suggested, "as there is a great +difference in the size of dogs' tails. The range from a terrier or pug +to a mastiff or a Siberian blood-hound is pretty wide. It reminds me of +the stone thrown at a man, that was described by a witness as about the +size of a piece of chalk." + +"By the island of Angamanain," Fred continued, "Polo probably meant the +Andaman Islands. Here is what he says of them: + +[Illustration: DOG-HEADED MEN OF ANGAMANAIN.] + +"'The people are without a king, and are idolaters, and no better than +wild beasts. And I assure you that all the men of this island of +Angamanain have heads like dogs, and teeth and eyes likewise! In fact, +in the face they are just like big mastiff dogs! They have a quantity of +spices; but they are a most cruel generation, and eat everybody they can +catch, if not of their own race. They live on flesh and rice and milk, +and have fruits different from ours.' + +"Now, the fact is," Fred explained, "that the natives of the Andaman +Islands have a bad reputation. Down to the present time they have been +repeatedly charged with murdering the crews of ships that were wrecked +there; and it is only recently that their cannibalism has been denied. +They are very black, and not at all handsome in face or figure; and out +of these facts I suppose the story came that they had heads like dogs. + +"He describes a fountain in the kingdom of Mosul, 'from which oil +springs in great abundance, insomuch that a hundred ship loads might be +taken from it at one time. This oil is not good to use with food, but +'tis good to burn, and is also used to anoint camels that have the +mange.' Evidently they had petroleum in Asia six hundred years ago, as +we have it in America to-day, and thought we had made a new discovery. + +"He speaks of oxen 'that are all over white as snow, and very large and +handsome. When they are to be loaded they kneel like the camel; once the +load is adjusted, they rise. Then there are sheep as big as asses; and +their tails are so large and fat that one tail shall weigh more than +thirty pounds. They are fine fat beasts, and afford capital mutton.' +These fat-tailed sheep are known in Asia and Africa, and the weight he +gives is said not to be excessive. + +"In one place there is an account of the posting system of the Great +Khan of Tartary, which seems to have been more perfect than the posting +system of Europe at the same date. From Kambaluc, the capital--now known +as Peking--the roads branched in all directions, and 'each road,' says +Marco, 'is known by the name of the province to which it leads. And the +messengers of the emperor, in travelling from Kambaluc, be the road +whichsoever they will, find at every twenty-five miles of the journey a +station which they call _Yamb_, or, as we would say, the +Post-horse-house. And at each of those stations used by the messengers +there is a large and handsome building for them to put up at, in which +they find all the rooms furnished with fine beds, and all other +necessary articles in rich silk, and where they are provided with +everything they can want. If even a king were to arrive at one of these, +he would find himself well lodged. At some of these stations there shall +be posted more than 400 horses, standing ready for the use of +messengers; and at some 200, according to the requirements.... There are +more than 300,000 kept at all these posts, and more than 10,000 great +buildings for the use of messengers.'" + +"How much China has declined since the days of Marco Polo," Frank +remarked. "The great buildings and the silk beds do not exist; and as +for the horses, we were unable to find them at the posting-stations, or +even to find any stations where they might be kept." + +Fred took breath during this interruption, and then went on with the +story of what Marco Polo claimed to have seen. + +[Illustration: MEDIÆVAL TARTAR HUTS AND WAGONS.] + +"'The houses of the Tartars,' says Marco, 'are made of wands covered +with felt. These are carried along with them whithersoever they go. They +also have wagons covered with black felt so efficaciously that no rain +can get in. These are drawn by oxen and camels, and the women and +children travel in them. They eat all kinds of flesh, including horses +and dogs and Pharaoh's rats. Their drink is mares' milk.' This account +is confirmed by other writers; and the houses of the Tartars are made +to-day as Polo describes, though they are not drawn about on wheels. One +ancient writer says that he measured one of the Tartar wagons, and found +that the wheels were twenty feet apart, and it was drawn by twenty-two +oxen, eleven abreast. + +[Illustration: THE ROC, FROM A PERSIAN DRAWING.] + +"He has a good deal to say," Fred continued, "about the famous bird +known as the roc, or rukh. He does not claim to have seen one of these +birds, but was informed by persons who had done so. According to his +account, 'It was for all the world like an eagle, but one, indeed, of +enormous size; so big, in fact, that its wings covered an extent of +thirty paces, and its quills were twelve paces long, and thick in +proportion; and it is so strong that it will seize an elephant in its +talons and carry him up in the air and drop him, so that he is smashed +to pieces; having so killed him, the bird swoops down on him and eats +him at leisure.' + +[Illustration: ROC'S EGG, NOW IN THE BRITISH MUSEUM.] + +"In a note explaining this story, Colonel Yule says there was once a +bird in Madagascar, where Polo places the roc, that was much larger than +any known bird of the present day. Its eggs have been found in a fossil +state, and one of them is preserved in the British Museum. It measures +thirteen and a quarter by six and a half inches (length and width), and +the capacity of the shell is nearly three and a half gallons. It was +undoubtedly from this bird that the fable of the roc arose." + +Frank ventured to ask Fred if he had found from Marco Polo's book what +kind of money was used in China at the time he visited that country. + +[Illustration: CHINESE BANK-NOTE OF THE MING DYNASTY.] + +"I am just coming to that," Fred answered. "Polo says that the great +emperor, Kublai-Khan, was a wonderful man. 'He transformed the bark of +the mulberry-tree into something resembling sheets of paper, and these +into money, which cost him nothing at all, so that you might say he had +the secret of alchemy to perfection. And these pieces of paper he made +to pass current universally, over all his kingdoms and provinces and +territories, and whithersoever his sovereignty extended; and nobody, +however important he thought himself, dared to refuse them on pain of +death." + +"History repeats itself," said Doctor Bronson; "for many a modern +government has made the same laws in order to compel the circulation of +its promises to pay." + +"And with the same result," Fred responded; "for we learn farther on +from Marco Polo that, in spite of the death penalty, the legal-tender +issue of the Great Khan was only worth half its nominal value in silver; +and the more money he issued, the greater was the depreciation. But the +khan was not the inventor of paper-money, for it was known at least four +centuries before his time. Its origin is disputed, but the probabilities +are that it came from the East. + +"Some of the stories that are told about supernatural appearances are +very interesting," continued Fred. "In the desert of Gobi, Polo says +that the traveller who lags behind his party at night will hear spirits +talking, and will suppose them to be his comrades. Sometimes the spirits +will call him by name, and thus shall a traveller oft-times be led +astray, so that he never finds his party; and in this way many have +perished. And sometimes you shall hear the sound of a variety of musical +instruments, and still more commonly the sound of drums. + +"He says, in another place, 'When the Great Khan, seated on a platform +some eight cubits above the pavement, desires to drink, cups filled with +wine are moved from a buffet in the centre of the hall, a distance of +ten paces, and present themselves to the emperor without being touched +by anybody.' + +[Illustration: CHINESE CONJURING EXTRAORDINARY.] + +"Polo describes other magical performances, some of which are partially +explained by Colonel Yule. Another traveller relates that a juggler +performed some remarkable tricks in his presence; and among them is the +following: 'He took a wooden ball with several holes in it, through +which loose thongs were passed, and, laying hold of one of these, slung +it into the air. It went so high that we lost sight of it altogether. +There now remained only a little of the end of a thong in the conjurer's +hand, and he desired one of the boys who assisted him to lay hold of it +and mount. He did so, climbing by the thong, and we lost sight of him! +The conjurer then called to him three times; but getting no answer, he +snatched up a knife as if in a great rage, laid hold of the thong, and +disappeared also. By-and-by he threw down one of the boy's hands; then a +foot; then the other hand, and then the other foot; then the trunk; and, +last of all, the head. Then he came down himself, all puffing and +panting, and, with his clothes all bloody, kissed the ground, and said +something in Chinese. Then he took the lad's limbs, laid them together, +gave a kick, when, presto! there was the boy, who got up and stood +before us.'" + +"The Indian jugglers are said to do the same trick, or one very much +like it," said Doctor Bronson. "I have read a description of one of +their performances, in which they took a long chain and threw one end of +it in the air, where it remained as if fastened to something. A dog was +then brought forward, and ran up the chain and disappeared in the air. +In the same way a hog, a panther, a lion, and a tiger were sent up the +chain one after the other, and all disappeared at its upper end. Finally +they took down the chain, rolled it up and put it in a bag, no one being +able to discover how the trick was performed." + +"We must come to a stop now," said Fred, "though we haven't heard a +tenth part of the strange things in Marco Polo's story of his travels. +His account of the Court of Kublai-Khan would take a long time to tell, +and perhaps you would get tired of it before I came to the end. So, if +you want to know more, you must do as I have done--read for yourself." + +The interesting session of the party over the travels of the famous +Venetian were brought to a close. The Doctor complimented the boys on +the excellent work they had done in making a condensed account of the +book, and said he was so pleased with them that he would give them a +similar piece of employment whenever the opportunity occurred. + +"It is a capital way," said Fred, "to fix in mind what we have read. I +find that I read with greater care when I know I must make a summary of +a book than if I am to throw it down when through and think no more of +it. I'm very glad we had to go through Marco Polo's history in this +way." + +"And I too," Frank added. "But it is what we used to dislike so much at +school." + +"What was that?" Fred asked. + +"Why, writing compositions, to be sure," Frank responded. "Don't you +remember how we used to detest it?" + +"Of course I do," was the answer; "but we always did it without an +object. The teacher told us to write something about 'spring,' or 'the +beauties of nature,' or some other subject that was not at all definite. +Now if he had given us an interesting book to read, and said he wanted +us to do with it as we have done with this, we should have 'written a +composition' with some relish." + +"It will be eight bells soon," the captain interrupted, "and if you want +to see me take the sun you had better come forward." + +[Illustration: CAPTAIN CLANCHY AT WORK.] + +The boys had familiarized themselves with the process of finding a +ship's position; but anything at sea that varies the monotony is always +welcome. So they went forward with Captain Clanchy, and stood by the +rail till that brief performance was ended. Then they retired to the +cabin, and watched the operation of working up the steamer's position; +and by the time this was over, the steward announced that dinner was +ready. + +[Illustration: COME TO DINNER!] + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +ARRIVAL IN SIAM.--FIRST DAY IN BANGKOK. + + +The boys found a novel way of taking fresh-water baths during their +voyage from Saigon to Bangkok. Nearly every day there was a heavy shower +of rain, and sometimes two or three showers in the course of twenty-four +hours. The rain came literally in torrents; it poured as though great +gates had been suddenly opened in the sky, to allow the passage of the +water by dozens of barrels at a time. Neither Frank nor Fred had ever +seen the rain fall so fast; the Doctor assured them that showers of this +kind were very common in the tropics, especially during the change of +the monsoons. + +[Illustration: A NATURAL SHOWER-BATH.] + +Whenever the clouds indicated a coming shower, the boys generally went +to the cabin and soon appeared in their bathing-suits. Covering their +heads with straw hats, to protect them from the pelting of the great +drops, they would sit in the rain and enjoy the luxury of the earliest +form of shower-bath ever known. One night, when they were sleeping on +deck, they were suddenly awakened by the pouring of the rain in their +faces, and, before they could gather their clothing and escape to +shelter, they were treated to a bath they had not bargained for. It is +one of the inconveniences of sleeping on deck in the tropics that you +are liable to have your slumbers disturbed in this way, just as you are +dreaming of pleasant things, and in no mood for waking. + +Though they were not in sight of land, our friends realized that they +were in a comparatively small body of water, and not in the open ocean. +The swell and heaving of the Atlantic and Pacific waves were altogether +absent; though the steamer was a diminutive one in comparison with the +great ships on which they had travelled hitherto, she rolled and pitched +very little, and sometimes her motion was as steady as though she was +navigating a river. The Gulf of Siam does not occupy a large place on +the map, and for a great part of the year it is as peaceful as a lake. +The captain told them that it was rarely disturbed by typhoons or severe +gales, and was about five hundred miles long by two hundred and fifty in +width. + +[Illustration: FLYING-FISH.] + +Porpoises and flying-fish appeared occasionally, and their lively leaps +from the water were a source of much amusement to the youths. + +The first indication of their approach to the coast of Siam was the +appearance of a dark line on the northern horizon. As they steamed on, +this line developed into a fringe of tropical trees; but before they +could make anything more of it than the merest fringe, the steamer came +to anchor. As they were still a long way from land, the boys could not +understand the reason for stopping, and Fred ventured to ask the captain +why they did not go on. + +"The principal reason," the captain answered, "is because we can't. The +approach to the river is very shallow, and our steamer cannot cross the +bar till high-tide. We must wait here till the tide serves, and we have +a pilot to take us in." + +The pilot came to the ship soon after they anchored, and in a few hours +he announced that it was time to move on. The anchor was lifted, and the +_Danube_ steamed slowly onward towards the shore. + +Very soon it was apparent to the boys that the waters along this part of +the coast were very shallow, as the steamer stirred the mud from the +bottom and left a dirty streak behind her. The bar at the mouth of the +Menam prevents the passage of large ships, and there was a fleet of half +a dozen or more lying outside and receiving their cargo from lighters. +Vessels drawing less than fifteen feet can go up without difficulty; and +once they have passed the bar, there is no trouble in proceeding on to +Bangkok. + +"I wonder if that is Bangkok?" said Fred, as he pointed to a conical +tower that rose just ahead of them, and apparently a short distance +above the mouth of the river. + +"Oh no," the captain replied, "that is not Bangkok at all. The city is +thirty miles up the river, and what you see now is Paknam. We shall stop +in front of it to get the permit from the custom-house to allow us to +proceed up the river. + +[Illustration: VIEW NEAR PAKNAM.] + +"The tower that you see is a temple on a small island opposite Paknam. +It is used on festival days, and once in awhile the king comes down here +to worship. On such occasions they have boat-races, and a good time +generally; some of the boats are rowed entirely by girls, and the sport +is very exciting." + +A boat came from the custom-house, and an officer mounted to the deck of +the steamer. His visit was a brief one, as the _Danube_ was a regular +visitor at the port, and did not require any unusual formalities. After +a short delay, the steamer moved on under charge of the pilot, though +the captain remained on the bridge and kept a sharp watch over the +movements of his vessel. It is a curious feature of maritime law that +when a ship is in charge of a pilot her captain's authority ceases; but +in case of accident he comes in for a liberal share of censure. + +The boys found that the Menam was as crooked as the Mekong, and not +unlike the latter in its general features. The channel appeared to be +free of sand-bars or other impediments to navigation, though some of the +bends of the stream were rather short for a large ship to turn in with +ease. At one place there was a channel or canal that saved a great +distance for small boats; but it was impracticable for the _Danube_, +which was obliged to follow the winding of the river. A little tow-boat +entered this canal just as they passed the entrance; she steamed +leisurely through, and as the _Danube_ rounded the bend Frank discovered +that the tow-boat was several miles ahead of them. + +[Illustration: NATIVE HUT ON THE MENAM RIVER.] + +The river was full of native boats, some going in one direction and some +in another. Now and then a house was visible in the dense foliage, and +there was an occasional cluster of dwellings large enough to be called a +village. Many of the houses were built so that a platform in front +overhung the water; and the whole structure was on piles, in order to +form a refuge against snakes and wild beasts, and also to secure the +inhabitants against being suddenly driven out by an inundation. + +But what impressed the young travellers more than anything else was the +richness of the tropical vegetation along the banks of the river. Here +were palms in great variety, and many huge trees whose names were +unknown to them; and there was a dense growth of underbrush, through +which it would be very difficult for a man to penetrate unless armed +with a hatchet, and not at all easy even then. Many of the trees were +covered with creeping and climbing plants, so that not a particle of the +surface or foliage of the original tree could be seen, and very often +the burden of parasites was so great that the trees had fallen beneath +it. + +"I have read," said Frank, "about the vines that destroyed a tree, but +have never fairly seen an instance of it till now." + +"Nor I either," Fred responded. "Look at that fine tree that has been +quite broken down by the weight of the plants that cling to it. And +observe, too, the bright blossoms that the vine has spread out, as if it +was exulting over the destruction it had caused." + +Some of the creeping vines had a scarlet flower of a very gaudy pattern, +and it seemed as if it was their season for blooming, as the vines in +several instances were completely covered with blossoms. + +[Illustration: A VILLAGE PATHWAY IN SIAM.] + +Now and then there were little openings in the forest that looked like +pathways. The Doctor told his young companions that these paths +undoubtedly led to villages or single houses that were hid away in the +dense foliage. The Doctor's belief was confirmed by the glimpse of an +occasional figure among the trees, and by dusky faces that +contemplated the steadily moving steamer. + +But it was not all a tropical forest with occasional villages. There +were sugar plantations, some of them of considerable extent; and there +were rice-fields where dozens and dozens of men were at work. Frank +contemplated a lot of these laborers with the captain's glass, and +remarked that the Siamese resembled the Chinese so much that it was +impossible to distinguish between them. The Doctor laughed, and then +gave this explanation: + +"The men that you see are Chinese, and not the people of Siam. Nearly +all these rice and sugar plantations employ Chinese laborers; and of the +five millions of people in Siam not less than two millions are Chinese. +They come here, just as they go to America or to Australia, in search of +employment; and, though the wages are low, they are quite content. If +you could go to every part of Siam you would hardly ever be out of sight +of the Chinese, as they are scattered everywhere through the kingdom. +There, now, we will have a good view of some of these laborers." + +[Illustration: CHINESE FIELD-LABORERS.] + +As he spoke, the steamer swung quite close to the bank, where there was +a group of laborers evidently just ready to depart for the rice-field. +Some were squatted, and some were standing; some were fully and some +only partially clothed; and all appeared as though they had the good +digestion that comes from hard work. It did not need a long study of the +assemblage to convince our friends that the men were exactly like those +they had seen in Canton and Hong-kong, and the captain told them that +probably every one of the crowd was from the Quang-Tung Province of +China. + +[Illustration: GENERAL VIEW OF BANGKOK.] + +They were still in the midst of cocoa and other tropical trees, when the +captain told them they were at Bangkok. There was a saw-mill and a +dock-yard among the trees on one side of the river, and farther on was a +large house, with an open space of an acre or more between it and the +river. They had reached what may be called the foreign portion of the +city; the native part is nearly three miles farther on, and quite +concealed by a bend in the stream. + +We will see what the boys had to say of Bangkok in their letters to +friends at home. Here is what Frank wrote: + +"MY DEAR MOTHER,--We had a charming voyage from Saigon to this port. The +weather was fine, and we amused ourselves in various ways; one thing we +did was to read up the story of Marco Polo's travels six hundred years +ago, and then tell it over to the Doctor. Sometimes it was so hot that +we slept on deck, and when it was raining hard we used to go out in our +bathing-suits and have a shower-bath that was simply perfect. We had a +picturesque ride up the Menam to this city; and we have seen lots of +curious things since we landed. + +"We came ashore with the captain, and he took us at once to the only +hotel in the place. It is a funny sort of a hotel, as you have to go +out-of-doors to pass from the dining-room to the sleeping-rooms and the +parlor, where we sit when we want to rest. The rooms are not more than +ten feet square, and I don't think Fred's will measure as much as that. +I made the remark that you couldn't swing a cat around there; and the +landlord said he had no cat, and even if he had one he didn't want to +swing her anyway. You ought to see the landlord; he is a German, and as +jolly as you could wish. He was formerly a sea-captain, and everybody +calls him 'Captain Salje.' He must weigh pretty nearly three hundred +pounds, and when he laughs he shakes all over. He speaks English as well +as German, and he also speaks the language of the country and that of +Java, where he lived a long time. When things don't get along well in +the kitchen, he goes in among his servants, and you hear his voice +ringing out all over the house. He is a capital landlord, and we like +his table better than that of any hotel we have seen since we left San +Francisco. + +[Illustration: IN THE FOREIGN PART OF BANGKOK.] + +"The hotel stands on the bank of the river, and you can step from a boat +directly to the veranda of the house. The river is the Broadway of +Bangkok, and all the travelling to and fro, or the greater part of it, +is done on the water. In this part of Bangkok is where the foreigners +live, and their houses are scattered along the banks for at least a +mile. Nobody wants to live where he would be without a front on the +river, as it would be just like living off from the street in an +American city. The merchants have their warehouses so that goods can be +rolled from boats directly inside the doors; but the houses where people +live are set back a little, and have a good large yard in front and all +around them. They have plenty of trees in the yards, and the houses look +very pretty; and as the verandas are wide, there is an abundance of +shade. Most of the houses are of two stories, and built of stuccoed +brick; and a good many of the floors are of brick or stone. Wood is not +very durable in this climate, as the air is moist and rots it; and, +besides, they have certain kinds of insects that eat it full of holes, +and make it turn to powder. Some woods decay much faster than others, +and they have one kind called teak, that the insects never attack. + +"As I look from the veranda where I am writing I can see half a dozen +ships anchored in the river below here, and as many more up above. Most +of them belong to Siam, as we can see by the flag; and there are two or +three German ships, one English, and one American. The Siamese flag is +red, and has a white elephant on it; we are in the country of the White +Elephant, and don't intend leaving until we have seen the sacred beast. +I am told that the white elephants at the king's palace have fine +stables and lots of attendants, and that they are worshipped and petted +till they are quite spoiled in their dispositions. + +"We have hired a boat by the day, and it is to be kept for our use as +long as we stay here; just as we might keep a carriage in another +country. There is a little cabin where you have to stoop as you go in; +and there are cushioned seats for four persons, and windows with sliding +lattices all around. It takes four men to row it--two on the bow, and +two on the stern--and they all row with their faces the way the boat is +going. The boat is quite comfortable, and we enjoy it very much. + +"The people make use of the river for all sorts of business. It is the +great highway for transporting merchandise, and for promenading on the +water; and it is the place where people go on shopping excursions. A +great many of the houses are built on rafts of bamboo-poles, and they +rise and fall with the tide. The raft is somewhat larger than the house, +and forms a platform all around it; and when you want to go in at the +front of a house, you have only to bring your boat along-side the raft +and step off. The bamboo seems almost to have been designed by nature +for the purpose of making these rafts. You know it is hollow, and very +light, and that it has joints at regular intervals. Now each joint forms +a water-tight compartment, and the wood will resist the water for a very +long time, so that a bamboo raft has no chance of sinking. Perhaps it +was the bamboo that gave the Chinese the idea of building ships in +water-tight compartments, as Marco Polo says they did six hundred years +ago. Who knows? + +"As you go along the river you see the fronts of the houses open towards +the water, and if they have anything to sell it is put where it can be +seen, exactly as it would be in a shop on Broadway. The houses are +divided generally into only two rooms--the men occupying one, and the +women the other; and the Siamese rarely make houses of more than one +story. The reason is that they wish to avoid having anybody walking over +their heads, which is considered an indignity. It is said that when the +city was first built along the banks of the river there was a great deal +of cholera, on account of the bad drainage, and many people died. The +king then gave orders for the people to build on the river itself, which +would make the drainage perfect, and thus improve the public health. The +order was obeyed, and from it we find the floating houses that seem so +curious to us. There are not far from fifteen thousand of these houses +and shops, and they are strung along on both sides of the river for +several miles, altogether. Then there are many houses built on piles, to +overhang the water, just like those we described at Saigon. + +"One of the books we have with us tells us that Bangkok is called 'The +Venice of the East,' and I can easily understand why. Venice is full of +canals, as you know, and so is Bangkok. They run off from the river in +all directions, and you can go almost anywhere by them when the tide is +up. This is why nearly everybody has a boat, as it would be difficult to +go about without one. You see boats of all sizes, from a little dug-out, +just large enough for one person--and a small one at that--up to the +great house-boat, or barge, that will hold twenty or more. The people +spend a good deal of their time on the water, and very often in it; for +they swim like otters, and are not at all disturbed when one of their +boats overturns with them. This afternoon, when we were out on the +river, a steamboat passed us. It did us no harm, though we tossed around +for a moment; but there was a small skiff close by that was filled with +water by the swell from the steamer. Two boys were in it, and as the +skiff went down under them, they took hold of it with their hands and +swam to the shore. They soon had the water out of it, and paddled off as +merrily as ever. + +"Where the largest of the canals branches off there is a pretty dense +collection of houses, and this continues for quite a distance. The +streets are irregular, and not very wide or clean; perhaps the most of +the people living in this quarter are Chinese, and they are not very +particular about dirt. Most of the shops are kept by Chinese, and they +have a great number of gambling-houses, for which they pay a fixed sum +to the government. Gambling is a monopoly, and so is the sale of +intoxicating spirits; the licenses are sold by the government, just as +an American city gives a man a license to sell liquor when he pays the +sum agreed on. The Chinese that come here are just as great gamblers as +they are at home, and they are just as fond of smoking opium. + +"The city is said to contain half a million inhabitants, and it is +little more than a hundred years old. It was founded in 1769, when the +Siamese capital (Ayuthia) was captured and plundered by the Burmese. The +king lives here, and the royal palace is well worth seeing. We are going +there to-morrow, or perhaps next day, and we are going to see some +curious temples. There are lots of temples in Bangkok, and the city +contains not less than twenty thousand priests of the Buddhist religion. +We will tell you more about the priests and the temples in another +letter." + +[Illustration: A SIAMESE PRIEST.] + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +TEMPLES AT BANGKOK.--THE FOUNDER OF BUDDHISM. + + +A letter from Fred was in the same mail with Frank's. The dutiful boy +remembered his mother, and wrote as follows: + +"Frank has told all about our arrival in Bangkok, and what we saw on our +first day in the city. I know you will hand our letters around for both +families to read, and so I will try to avoid repeating what he has said. + +"One of the first things we wanted to see was the temples, for which +Bangkok is famous. You must know that Siam is a country where the +Buddhist religion has a very strong hold; and the king is supposed to be +the defender of the ancient faith. A large part of the annual revenue of +the country is expended in the repair of the temples now in existence, +or the construction of new ones; and also in processions and other +religious ceremonies. We are fortunate in coming here at the season of +the year when the king goes to make his visits to all the temples; and, +as there are many of them in the city, he has enough to do for two or +three weeks. We have seen one of these processions, and expect to see +more: as the one we have seen is not the grandest of them, I will keep +the description of this part of our sights in Bangkok for another +letter. + +[Illustration: BIRDS-EYE VIEW OF BANGKOK.] + +"The first temple we went to was the one known as _Wat Seh Kate_. It has +the general appearance of a pyramid, and is about two hundred and fifty +feet high, with a winding pathway that leads to the top. From the +platform, on the summit, there is a fine view of Bangkok, or rather the +form of the city can be seen, though the most of the houses are +concealed by the trees. It is a curious sight, as the trees are nearly +all tropical ones, and wherever you look you see palms in some form or +other, with their long leaves bending in the wind, and their stems +rising, often as straight as arrows, for fifty or a hundred feet. Off in +the distance there are rice-fields, some of them of great extent; and +close below you is a bewildering mass of temples, and palaces, and +pagodas, with the river shining here and there, and forming a sharp +contrast to the dark green of the foliage. Some of the spires of the +temples look as pointed as needles; and though you might think they +would fall down with the first high wind, I am told they have stood for +a long time, and are apparently as firm as ever. + +"I enclose a picture representing a view from one of the temples, so +that you can see what Bangkok is like. + +"Some foreigners have been talking of proposing to the government to +convert this temple into a reservoir for water, which would be brought +into the city by an aqueduct, just as water is supplied to New York and +other American cities. Wouldn't that be a novel idea? The city has no +aqueduct whatever, but all the water that the people use must be taken +from the river or caught in cisterns during the rainy season. + +[Illustration: TEMPLE OF WAT CHANG.] + +"The temple is not yet finished, and therefore the view from the top is +the most interesting thing about it. On the other side of the river is +another remarkable temple known as _Wat Chang_; it stands in a large +enclosure, perhaps fifteen or twenty acres in extent, and this enclosure +contains small gardens, the houses of the priests, and a great quantity +of stone statues, some of them very grotesque in character. There are +some nice fish-ponds full of fish; and in two or three places we saw +grottoes of stone and brick that were very pretty. I should think that +the priests had considerable taste, and were not the lazy fellows one +often finds around these temples. Perhaps they did not do the work +themselves, but only laid it out for others; even if that is the case, +they deserve some credit for their good taste. + +"The general shape of _Wat Chang_ is that of a bell; and there is a +spire at the top that would make a very good handle, if some one could +be found large and strong enough to take it up and ring it. Doctor +Bronson guessed that the building was two hundred and fifty feet high, +and about the same in diameter; it is built of brick, and the outside is +covered with plaster, which was stuck full, while it was moist, with all +sorts of curious things. These include plates, and cups and saucers, and +all manner of dishes with as many colors as the rainbow, and arranged +into a mosaic that forms figures of animals, fruits, flowers, and other +things, some of them hideous and unnatural. As you might suppose would +be the case in the Land of the White Elephant, the largest animal that +we know of is frequently represented. Sometimes he has only one head, as +he has in actual life; but occasionally they give him three heads, which +the Doctor says is to symbolize the Buddhistic Trinity. Besides these +mosaics, there are other elephants in the form of statues, which are set +in niches half-way to the summit. The sun was shining brightly when we +visited this temple, and at every step the rays were flashed into our +eyes till they almost ached with pain. + +[Illustration: TEMPLE OF THE SLEEPING IDOL.] + +"We went to the 'Temple of the Sleeping Idol,' which is one of the +wonders of Bangkok. It is not a great ways from the royal palace, and +gets its name from the fact that there is a statue of Buddha in a +horizontal position that fills the most of the interior of the building. +The figure is one hundred and sixty feet long, and lies on its side; the +soles of the feet are sixteen feet long, and each of them is inlaid with +mother-of-pearl as delicately as though it was a finger-ring. The +figures represented by this inlaid work are entirely fruits and flowers; +Doctor Bronson says the fable is that fruits and flowers sprung from the +earth wherever Buddha planted his footsteps. The figure of Buddha is +built of brick, and then heavily gilded, so that you might easily +suppose it was of gold. When I tell you that the arm at the elbow is six +feet in diameter, you will get an idea of the greatness of the work. + +"The Sleeping Idol is not the only wonder of this temple. There are +nearly a thousand other idols there, most of them of life size, and they +are so thickly packed as to make you think they would be liable to get +in each other's way. The temple itself is about two hundred feet long, +and has a high roof with sharp peaks at the ends, and three stages +rising one above another. The eaves are supported by tall columns, and +thus quite a veranda is formed between them and the doors of the +building; and there is a high wall around the temple, so that it would +not be easy to get in without permission. The enclosure contains the +houses of the priests, and some small pagodas and temples; and the +priests evidently have an eye to business, as they would not open the +doors till we had paid a tical for each person of our party. The tical +is the Siamese coin in which everything is reckoned; it is worth about +sixty cents of our money, and consequently the price of admission to +the temple seemed rather dear to us. + +[Illustration: BRASS IDOL IN A TEMPLE.] + +"There is another temple that has a statue of brass nearly fifty feet +high, and, like most of the statues, it is intended to represent the +divine Buddha. It is in a sitting posture, with the legs crossed, and +the pedestal on which it sits is of the same material, and delicately +ornamented. In front of the altar there are cups and flower-vases in +great variety--some of brass, others of copper, and others again of +bronze thickly covered with gold. Offerings of fruit and flowers were +lying on the altar, and on each side of the figure of Buddha there was +the statue of a priest, standing erect, and with his hands folded in the +attitude of prayer. We could not help admiring the beauty of the work, +and regretting that so much money and labor had been devoted to the +worship of a heathen god. The temple of the Sleeping Idol is said to +have cost not less than a million of dollars, and probably ten millions +would not cover the expense of the temples within half a mile of the +royal palace, to say nothing of the others in the city. + +"The Chinese that live in Bangkok have a great many temples of their +own, but none of them are as fine as the Siamese ones. The temples that +the Chinese build must be paid for out of their own contributions; while +those of the Siamese are erected by the government, and the priests that +take care of them have an official character. There were formerly thirty +or forty thousand priests in Bangkok: they were so numerous that the +father of the present king determined to compel them to work for a +living, and so he took away the government support and turned them out. +For a few years after he did so they were not very numerous; but they +have gradually increased, until their number is now reckoned at twenty +thousand. They can be recognized by their yellow robes, and they have +their heads shaved as smooth as door-knobs. They live about the temples, +and every morning they go around begging. + +"This morning we started out early, in order to see the priests on their +begging missions; and it was a curious sight, you may believe. + +"Each begging priest has a boat, and generally a boy to paddle it. In +front of the priest there is a basket with a cover, and as the boat is +rowed up to a house the priest says not a word, but raises the cover of +the basket. On the platform in front of the door there is a kettle of +freshly boiled rice, and somebody, generally a woman, lifts out a quart +or so of the rice with a ladle and pours it into the basket. When the +operation is completed, the priest moves on; he never says 'Thank you,' +and the giver never speaks. If another priest comes a moment after, he +gets the same quantity, and the same silence is preserved. Charity is +enjoined by the Buddhist religion, and what is given is given from a +sense of religious duty. Captain Salje says that nobody need starve in +Bangkok, as it is the privilege of every one to go to the temples and be +fed. The priests receive from the people, and are expected in turn to +give to those that need. But if you went to the temples you would get +nothing more than boiled rice, with an occasional fish; and, as I should +tire of those things in a short time, I don't think either Frank or +myself will become a mendicant in the capital of Siam. + +[Illustration: PRIESTS PLAYING CHESS.] + +"The priests have a very lazy life of it. They lie around the temples +and spend much of their time in sleep; some of them study the sacred +books of their religion, and for those who are inclined to read there is +a library attached to each of the principal temples. They are fond of +games like chess, and several times we have found groups of them seated +around tables and completely absorbed in their sport. Their chessmen are +like buttons, and they hold them in little baskets, which are kept under +the hands of the players. Many of them are great smokers, and when a +party is at chess they usually have their pipes where they can be ready +for use at a moment's notice. + +"Talking about the priests naturally leads up to the religion of the +country. Doctor Bronson says it is Buddhism of the purest character, and +was brought to Siam from Ceylon hundreds of years ago. There is +considerable difference in the authorities about the origin of the +religion, but the statement most generally received is that it began +about two thousand three hundred years ago in India. Prince Gautama, who +afterward became Buddha, was famous for the goodness of his disposition +and his care for the happiness of his fellow-men. The religion of his +time was mixed up with a great deal of cruelty, and he determined to +reform it. With his title of prince, he belonged to a very rich family +near Benares, which was then considered one of the most sacred cities in +India; and it remains so to this day in the eyes of the native people. +He became a wanderer, and for five years he travelled over the country, +living on charity, and doing all the good that he could. + +"At the end of five years he came back to Benares to establish a new +religion, and dispute with the teachers of the old. The people were +ready to listen to him, and in a short time, under his new name of +Buddha, he had many converts. Among them were his father and brothers, +and other members of his family; and in a few years he was able to send +out apostles to all parts of India and to Ceylon, and other countries. +Conversions were made very fast, and the histories say that in less than +two hundred years from the time Buddha began his work five hundred +millions of people in Asia had embraced the new doctrines. Temples were +erected everywhere, and priests became numerous; but the new religion +led to a bitter war with the old, which lasted for centuries. Buddhism +was finally driven out of the most of India, and the only places where +it now exists are the countries to which it was carried by the +missionaries. + +"An English author and journalist, Edwin Arnold, who lived some time in +India, has written a poem, entitled 'The Light of Asia,' in which he +endeavors to portray the life and character of Prince Gautama of India, +the founder of Buddhism. In the preface to his interesting and highly +instructive production, Mr. Arnold says: + + "'A generation ago little or nothing was known in Europe of this + great faith of Asia, which had nevertheless existed during + twenty-four centuries, and at this day surpasses, in the number of + its followers and the area of its prevalence, any other form of + creed. Four hundred and seventy millions of our race live and die + in the tenets of Gautama; and the spiritual dominions of this + ancient teacher extend, at the present time, from Nepaul and Ceylon + over the whole Eastern Peninsula to China, Japan, Thibet, Central + Asia, Siberia, and even Swedish Lapland. India itself might fairly + be included in this magnificent empire of belief; for, though the + profession of Buddhism has for the most part passed away from the + land of its birth, the mark of Gautama's sublime teaching is + stamped ineffaceably upon modern Brahminism, and the most + characteristic habits and convictions of the Hindoos are clearly + due to the benign influence of Buddha's precepts. More than a third + of mankind, therefore, owe their moral and religions ideas to this + illustrious prince, whose personality, though imperfectly revealed + in the existing sources of information, cannot but appear the + highest, gentlest, holiest, and most beneficent, with one + exception, in the history of Thought.' + +"Another authority says that the real name of Buddha was Sakya Muni, and +he was the son of the Rajah of Kapila, a small territory north of +Benares. According to some of the accounts, he acquired his divine +character by silent meditation; and it is one of the principles of his +creed that any one can, by meditation and good works, become equal to +divinity. He was said to be thirty-five years old when he attained these +powers, and it required seven years of meditation to reach this +condition. He lived to be nearly eighty years old, and was actively +engaged in pushing his new doctrines until the time of his death. + +[Illustration: GATE-WAY OF A TEMPLE AT BANGKOK.] + +"There are two reasons why I shall not write much about the religion of +this wonderful man. One is that I am afraid you would not be greatly +interested in what we call Paganism, and the other is that I don't feel +able to describe it so that you would understand it. People who have +lived here for years say it is full of mysteries, and they are not able +to comprehend it. If that is the case, you could hardly expect a +traveller who is only a few months in the East to tell you all about the +beliefs of the natives, and their modes of worship. I am told that the +creed of Buddha is a very simple one, and is founded on kindness and +benevolence. It is enjoined on all believers to be charitable, and never +to inflict pain on anything that lives. This part of the doctrine is not +closely observed by the ordinary followers, and its strict observation +is specially appropriate for the priests. They are not allowed to kill +any animal for the sake of food, but they may eat what others have +killed, though they are not expected to do so if vegetable food is to be +obtained. They are expected to remain poor, like the monks of the +Catholic Church, and whatever is given to them belongs to the temple +they are attached to. The temples are sometimes very rich, but the +priests have nothing they can call their own property. + +"Children are instructed in the temples, and one of the duties of the +priests is to give instruction when it is required. Some of the temples +have schools attached to them; and there are Buddhist colleges that have +acquired considerable reputation for the learning of the men attached to +them. + +"Attempts have been made to convert the Siamese from their present +religion to Christianity, and a good many missions have been established +here. The Roman Catholics came to Siam three hundred years ago, and +began to preach their religion; and in the early part of this century +the Protestant missions were established. The government allows the +missionaries full liberty to preach and teach among the people, and +makes them gifts of land when any is wanted for the erection of a church +or school-house. Some of the missionaries have exercised considerable +influence over the high authorities, and it is largely due to their +efforts that many reforms have been adopted. + +[Illustration: TEMPLE OF THE EMERALD IDOL.] + +"I will close this letter by telling you something about the last of the +temples we visited. It is the _Wat P'hza Keau_, or the Temple of the +Emerald Idol, and is so called on account of an idol of emerald a foot +high and eight inches wide. It stands on an altar about fifty feet high, +and all over the surface of the altar there are images representing +idols, human figures, and animals, the latter including some forms that +are very grotesque. The emerald idol stands in a niche which is +beautifully ornamented, and the altar terminates in a long spire above +the idol's head. There are paintings on the walls superior to anything +we saw in the other temples, and we found that the bricks on the floor +were of polished brass instead of baked clay. The hair and collar of the +idol are of pure gold, and from the way the light fell upon them it +looked as though they were thickly set with precious stones. Some one +who has seen it more closely than we did, says that while the gold was +in a melted state a handful of diamonds, sapphires, rubies, and other +precious stones were stirred into it; perhaps this was so, but I should +think it would be injurious to the diamonds to be thrown into melted +gold, which must be of a very great heat. + +"This is the temple where the king comes most frequently to say his +prayers. We had hoped to see him there, but were disappointed." + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +ASCENDING THE MENAM, FROM BANGKOK TO AYUTHIA. + + +Doctor Bronson had a letter of introduction to the American Consul at +Bangkok, which a friend in New York had given him before his departure. +A few mornings after his arrival in Siam, he called at the consulate to +deliver the letter and make the acquaintance of his country's +representative. + +He found the consul seated in a large arm-chair on the veranda of a +spacious building on the east bank of the river, in the foreign portion +of the city. A yard with shade-trees and gravelled walks surrounded the +building, and near the landing-place there was a tall staff from which +the flag of the United States waved in the breeze. The consul was a man +of pleasing manners, and he was heartily glad to meet a compatriot, as +the visits of Americans to Bangkok are not at all numerous. "Until you +arrived," said he to the Doctor, "there had not been an American tourist +here for nearly eight months. I wish more would come, as we lead rather +a lonely life in Siam, and are very glad of anything to break the +monotony." + +In a frank, open-hearted way, the consul offered his services to Doctor +Bronson and his young friends, in case there was anything he could do +for them. + +The Doctor thanked him for the proffered courtesy, and said they hoped +to be able to see his majesty, the King of Siam, before their departure. + +"I think that can be arranged without much difficulty," the consul +answered. "The king likes to see strangers who are enough interested in +Siam to come here out of the beaten track. He is a polite, intelligent, +and most agreeable gentleman, and I feel confident that I can promise to +present you to him. + +"Just now he is absent from the city, and will not be back here for +three or four days. On his return, I will endeavor to arrange what you +wish. Meantime there is an excursion going up the river to Ayuthia, the +ancient capital of Siam, and I advise you to join it. A party is going +to see some elephants driven in from the forest, and the sight will be +interesting to you. It can easily be arranged for you to join the +excursion, which will start to-morrow morning." + +Doctor Bronson assented at once to the proposal, and, after exchanging a +few general observations, he departed, promising to come again in the +afternoon to learn more fully about the excursion, and to bring the boys +with him to introduce to the consul. He had left them at the hotel, busy +with their first letters to friends at home. + +Frank and Fred were delighted at the plan for going to Ayuthia, +especially as they would have an opportunity to see with their own eyes +the way the Siamese catch elephants. They were impatient to be off, and +could hardly keep their minds on their letters, as they were filled with +thoughts of the novelties in store for them. + +When they called at the consulate in the afternoon, they found that the +whole business had been settled. They were to have a house-boat or +barge, large enough for half a dozen persons, and it was to be towed by +a steam-launch which had been procured from one of the foreign merchants +at Bangkok. To economize time, it had been determined to start an hour +or two before sunset, and travel during the night; by this means they +would reach Ayuthia early the next forenoon, and thus have the greater +part of the day for sight-seeing. The consul decided to accompany them, +as the cares of the consulate were not very heavy at that particular +time, and, besides, the vice-consul was there to see that nothing went +wrong. + +A sufficient supply of cooked and canned provisions was procured, and +the necessary amount of blankets, overcoats, and other comforts was made +ready. The barge came to the front of the hotel at the appointed time, +and in a few moments they were steaming up the river. + +[Illustration: PRIVATE GARDEN NEAR BANGKOK.] + +Frank and Fred thought the sight was one of the strangest they had ever +seen. Here was a broad river, its surface covered with small boats of a +character new to them, and its banks lined with floating houses, such as +have been described. Junks, and ships, and sloops, and steamers were +anchored in the stream; and occasionally a great barge, rowed by twenty +or thirty men, and belonging to some member of a noble family, shot past +them, or turned into some of the many canals that open out from the +Menam. Houses were just visible through the dense mass of palms and +other tropical trees that lined the banks, and the spires of the pagodas +rose above like great watch-towers, whose line of vision extended many +miles. At a bend in the river the white walls of the royal palace came +into view, and as they passed beyond the palace and proceeded up the +river their eyes rested upon extensive fields and gardens, and on +another fringe of floating houses along the bank. Suddenly a practical +question occurred to Frank, and he asked the consul-- + +"Does the river ever freeze over?" + +"Not by any means," was the reply. "The average temperature here is +about 82°. April is the hottest month, and the thermometer then goes to +97°, and sometimes above 100°. It rarely falls below 65°, and the lowest +ever known is 54°. There are only two seasons--the hot, or wet; and the +dry, or cool. The south-west monsoon blows from April till October, and +brings heat and rain with it; while from October till April we have the +north-east monsoon, which is cool and comfortable. Most of the time +during the north-east monsoon we have fine weather; there is now and +then a shower, but it rarely lasts long. + +"There is a very good story about the absence of cold in this part of +Siam. Forty or fifty years ago, when the Protestant missionaries first +came here, some of them were taken before the king, who wanted to see +what manner of men they were. Up to that time Siam had had very little +intercourse with foreign countries, and the old king was not very well +versed in the geography of other lands, and their climate and +productions. So he asked the missionaries, who were from Boston, what +their country was, and what it produced. + +"They told him many things about America, described the Falls of +Niagara, the Rocky Mountains, the Mississippi, the fields of cotton and +wheat, and other things that the soil produced, the great steamboats on +the rivers, and talked of many other matters that they thought would +interest him. Finally, one of them told him that where they came from +the rivers were frozen over two or three months in the year. + +"'What do you mean by that?' the king asked, through his interpreter. + +"'Why, I mean,' said the missionary, 'that if this palace and the river +Menam were at Boston, your majesty could walk across the water during +three months of the year as he could walk on this floor. The water +becomes solid, and men cut holes in it with axes and saws.' + +"'Now I _know_ you are lying,' the king replied, as he rose from his +seat in great anger. 'I have thought so for some minutes, and now I am +certain of it.' And he ordered the reception to end at once, as he +wished no further communication with men who talked about a river +getting hard enough for a king to walk on." + +The scenery along the river was much like that below the city. There +was the same luxuriance of vegetation that had astonished the boys when +they entered the Menam, the same trees, and the same creeping and +climbing plants. Here and there were great fields of rice; and our +friends were not surprised to learn that rice was the chief product of +the country, and its only export of consequence. There were also fields +of sugar, which was extensively cultivated and exported; and the consul +told them that there were exports of hemp, pepper, and cotton that +sometimes reached a respectable figure. There was little manufacturing +industry in Siam, and what the people wanted in the way of manufactured +goods was brought from Europe or America. + +[Illustration: A SIAMESE FOREST SCENE.] + +The consul pointed out various objects of interest as the boat moved +along the river, and explained many things that otherwise might have +been misunderstood by the boys, or not comprehended at all. Frank had a +commercial turn of mind, and asked many questions about the trade of +Siam; and he was much pleased to find that the consul had the whole +subject at his command, and was able to give all the desired +information. When their dialogue ended, Frank had the following facts +recorded in his note-book: + +"In 1876 the exports of Siam amounted to $8,350,000, and the imports to +$7,070,000--an increase in the volume of trade over the previous year of +$686,000. The chief export is rice, and in the year mentioned 4,101,000 +piculs of rice were exported. The picul is a Chinese weight of 133 +pounds. The direct exportation to the United States was 8800 piculs; but +there is a large amount that is reshipped from Hong-kong, and does not +appear on the records of the Siamese custom-house as going to America. + +"In 1857 six foreign ships visited Bangkok; twenty years later, the +number of foreign ships coming there in a single twelvemonth was more +than two hundred. In 1840 there was only one trading-ship flying the +Siamese flag; while in 1874 there were one hundred and twenty-nine +native ships entered at the custom-house of Bangkok, and one hundred and +seventy seven cleared from the port. These ships are nearly all native +built and manned, and they go to Singapore, Hong-kong, and the ports of +Java. They have not yet ventured on voyages to Europe and America, and +are not likely to do so for a long time to come." + +Fred wished to know what American articles were used in Siam, and Frank +said he was coming to that as soon as he had written down the notes +about the shipping. + +The consul told them it would take a long time to name over all the +foreign articles that could be sold in the country; but he would +certainly not advise anybody to bring a cargo of heavy woollen blankets +and overcoats, as they would not be in demand. + +"I should say so," answered Fred. "With the thermometer as we have seen +it since we came here, a heavy blanket or anything of the kind is quite +superfluous. We rather want something for keeping cool, and if somebody +will invent an ice-machine that you can carry in your pocket or even in +your trunk he will make a fortune." + +"Yes," the consul answered, "a thing much needed in the East is a cheap, +easily handled, and light ice-machine. Ice is worth from three to six +cents a pound here, and sometimes it can't be had at any price. There is +a machine made by a French company that is somewhat used here, but it +gets out of order easily, and has to be sent to Paris to be repaired. +Where is the Yankee that will make something to go ahead of it? + +"But to return to the subject of the things that are made in America and +sent here to sell. We have cotton cloths of various kinds; canvas, iron, +steel, and lead; glassware in several varieties; lamps, kitchen +machinery and utensils; canned fruits and vegetables, together with +canned fish and preserves. By-the-way," he continued, "we had a dinner +at the consulate last year at Christmas-time, when everything edible on +the table was of American origin, and brought to Siam in cans. The +dinner-party was also made up of Americans, and you may be sure we had a +good time, and could easily imagine we were at home. + +"Some American machinery is used here, but not much, for the very simple +reason that there is very little machinery of any kind used in Siam. All +the weighing apparatus in the custom-house and other government offices +is from America, as you will find on going through them." + +"We passed the custom-house the other day," said Frank, "and I remember +seeing some scales there which seemed like American ones. I looked for +the maker's name, and saw the word which everybody knows at home, +'Fairbanks.' I was told that the king had some of these scales in his +royal museum, and the only weighing-machines used in Siam, at least by +the government, were made by Fairbanks." + +"The native merchants are learning the advantages of the American system +of weighing, in preference to their primitive one, as they can get along +so much faster with the new than with the old," the consul answered. +"But the East is conservative, and cannot be expected to adopt anything +new very hastily. + +"There is a good deal of American petroleum burnt here," he continued, +"but it comes to Siam from Singapore, and not directly from America. In +fact, about seventy per cent. of all the import and export trade of Siam +is through Singapore, and so the merchants of Siam pay more for their +goods than if they were brought here direct from the countries where +they are produced. The king is desirous of having direct trade with the +United States, and so are many private individuals, and it is to be +hoped that some of the merchants will yet bring it about. It is a pity +that the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, or the Occidental and Oriental, +does not see its way clear to a branch line between Hong-kong and +Bangkok, to connect with the regular steamers between Hong-kong and San +Francisco. Two small steamers would perform the service, and I am +confident it would pay." + +There were occasional interruptions to this conversation. Now and then +the boys saw a curious tree or something else that they wished to study, +and they were never tired of looking at the native boats that paddled, +or sailed, or floated down the river. + +[Illustration: PARASITE AND PALM.] + +One of the trees that attracted their attention as they went along near +the shore belonged to the family of parasites, and was not unlike some +they had seen as they ascended the river from Paknam to Bangkok. The +Doctor explained that in this case the parasite was not a vine, but a +distinct tree that grew from a seed deposited by the wind or by the +birds on the trunk or among the leaves of a palm. It grows much faster +than the palm, and in a few years the palm dies and the parasite lives. +It is held in the air by the decaying stem of the parent tree until the +latter altogether rots away and falls. When once the parasite has +obtained a hold, the destruction of the palm is only a question of time. +Frank made a sketch of one of these trees while the boat was stopped a +few moments to enable the engineer of the steam-launch to arrange +something that had got out of order. + +[Illustration: THE BAMBOO-TREE.] + +The bamboo-tree seemed to abound along the Menam, as it does everywhere +in the East. In some places the stalks stood singly, and shot up +straight as arrows; while in others they were in clusters so dense that +the stems could not be distinguished one from another. While Frank was +busy over his sketch of the parasite, Fred managed to secure a good +picture of one of the most useful trees in the world. It is said that +there are more than a hundred uses for the bamboo among the Chinese, and +it is possible that a few others might be added in Siam and Java. + +[Illustration: THE BOAT THEY NARROWLY MISSED.] + +Several times they had narrow escapes from collisions with the native +boats, as the men who managed the latter were not very skilful in +handling the rudder. One that passed so close to them as almost to +scrape her sides against the boat of our friends, was a Chinese craft +not unlike what they had seen between Hong-kong and Canton. It was +running before the wind, and had a great sail of matting that was kept +in place by a dozen or more cords gathered in a single line at the +stern. She had a high cabin, that seemed rather top-heavy with the wind +on the beam, but was all right before it; and there was a little deck +forward of the mast, where a couple of men were seated. The narrowness +of the escape did not appear to disturb these natives in the least, and +they kept their places as though nothing had happened. + +[Illustration: SCENE AT BANG-PA-IN.] + +Night came upon them, but there was a good moon, and they kept steadily +on their way. They were going against the current, and as the boat was +considerably larger than the steam-launch, the progress was not rapid. +At nine o'clock in the morning they passed Bang-pa-in, where the king +has a summer palace on a very pretty island in the most picturesque part +of the river. The palace is built in European style, and was completed +only a few years ago; the grounds are handsomely laid out, and there is +an abundance of shade-trees, in irregular groves, from one end of the +island to the other. + +Ayuthia is ten miles above Bang-pa-in; and soon after passing the +picturesque island Frank discovered some ruins of a temple close to the +river's bank. The consul told him they would soon see an abundance of +ruins, and sure enough at the next turn of the river they came in +sight of what seemed to be a deserted village. Then they saw a number of +floating houses tied to the shore, and farther on the towers and domes +of Ayuthia were visible. The boat was stopped in front of a rude wharf, +and the party stepped ashore in the ancient capital of Siam. + +[Illustration: A RIVER SCENE.] + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +VISITING THE PRINCE OF THE ELEPHANTS.--AYUTHIA.--SOMETHING ABOUT +CROCODILES. + + +The party went ashore as soon as the boat was made fast. Frank was first +to scramble up the bank, closely followed by Fred; then came the Doctor +and the consul together, and behind them the interpreter of the +consulate. At the consulates generally throughout the East it is the +custom to have an interpreter, to facilitate dealings with the native +officials and others; he is usually a native who has been taught English +in some of the mission-schools, or he may be of American or European +parentage, and familiar from his youth with the language of the country +where he lives. In the present instance the interpreter was an +intelligent young Siamese, who was educated by the missionaries, and +spoke English with great fluency. He was of much service to the Doctor +and his young companions, as he could tell them many things of interest +concerning Siam and what it contained. + +"We will first go," said the consul, "to call on the Prince of the +Elephants. He lives in that house you see up there," he continued, as he +pointed to a light structure of poles and matting, a hundred yards or so +from the bank. + +The interpreter was sent on ahead to herald the arrival of the +strangers, and returned in a few minutes with the announcement that the +prince was ready to receive them. + +The consul and Doctor Bronson went forward, while Frank and Fred brought +up the rear. Frank thought the house was not a very sumptuous palace for +a prince, especially one who had the title of the Prince of the +Elephants. Fred was of the same opinion, but said they might as well +reserve their judgment until they had seen what was within. Externally, +the house was like a rough shed of poles for a framework, with its sides +covered with matting, to allow a free circulation of air. Some of the +mats were rolled up, while others were closed; and it was certainly a +very convenient house for a climate as hot as that of Siam. They were +received in the upper story, to which they ascended by a rough stairway, +which could be removed as readily as a ladder. What the lower floor +contained they did not know, as all the mats around it were closed. + +They found the prince just inside the door-way, and seated, or rather +squatted, on a bench about two feet high. Chairs had been placed for the +strangers, and they were invited to be seated. The interpreter remained +standing, and, after a moment's pause, the prince asked who the visitors +were. The interpreter explained; and while he did so, Frank made good +use of his eyes to see what the prince was like and how he lived. + +[Illustration: THE YOUNG PRINCE.] + +His royal highness appeared to be about fifty years old, or perhaps +fifty-five. He was dressed in the native costume, without any gold-lace +or other ornament to designate his high rank; the boys were somewhat +disappointed at this, as they had expected to see a great personage +covered with fine clothes, and ornamented with an abundance of diamonds +and other precious stones. A youth, whom they supposed to be his son, +stood near him, and occasionally leaned against the bench in a familiar +way. Servants were creeping about the floor, and it made a strange +impression on the youths to see the humble attitudes of half a dozen or +more of the attendants as they waited for orders in a corner of the +room. This is the position of respect in Siam, and, until the present +king was crowned, it would have been as much as one's life was worth to +venture into the presence of any member of the royal family in the +European manner. + +When he ascended the throne, he commanded that the old custom of +creeping, and bowing the head to the floor in the presence of the king, +should cease; it was a great innovation, but, as it was by royal +command, it could not be opposed. The rule is enforced at the king's +palace, but not at the palaces of the subordinate princes; and thus it +happened that Frank and Fred were witnesses of what to them was a +curious custom, and by no means an agreeable one. + +The prince in whose presence they were was the uncle of the king. His +name was Chow Phan Alah, and the boys learned from the consul that he +was a man of marked ability, who had been prominent in public affairs +for a long time. Socially, he adhered to the old customs of the country, +as was evident in the creeping and crouching of those around him; but in +politics he was progressive, and a good deal of the advancement that +Siam had made in the past twenty years was due to his energy and +shrewdness. + +The interview lasted about a quarter of an hour. While the party was in +the reception-hall, the prince ordered cigars and fruit to be served, +and when they retired he sent a basket of fruit after them as a present. +The consul had suggested that Doctor Bronson and the youths would like +to see the stables of the elephants, and also wished to attend the +elephant-hunt that was to come off about that time. The first request +was granted at once; and the prince sent one of his officers to show the +stables and their occupants, and also the corral close by, where the +wild elephants were caught. He regretted to say that the hunt had been +postponed a few days on account of the swollen condition of some of the +rivers, which made it difficult to drive the animals through the +forest. The boys were disappointed to hear this, but they were consoled +with the reflection that they could see the spot where the hunt would +take place, and the Doctor promised to explain to them how it was +conducted. + +[Illustration: PORTRAIT OF "CHANG."] + +The elephant-stable was only a huge shed, with the earth for a floor. It +contained three or four elephants, all the others being out in the +forest with the hunting-party. The largest of the elephants was brought +out for their inspection; he was named "Chang," and was thought to be +not far from seventy years old. As the elephant lives to the age of one +hundred and fifty years and upwards, old Chang was just in the prime of +life when the boys saw him, and his step was as elastic as that of a +youth of twenty. He was not overjoyed to meet the strangers, and +flourished his trunk in a menacing way; but at a sign from his keeper he +ceased his demonstrations, and became thoroughly obedient. + +[Illustration: MACEDONIAN COIN, WITH ANCIENT GOAD.] + +Chang had been at work hauling timber during the cool hours of the +morning, and his harness was still on his back. It consisted of a stout +breastplate of ropes and leather, which was held in place by a pad on +his back. Just below his shoulder a stout ring was inserted in the +breastplate, and to this the ropes by which the timber was drawn were +attached. The driver sat on his neck, and directed him by means of an +iron goad that had a hook near the end. Frank could not at first +understand the use of this iron, but he soon found out. The officer +asked the boys if they would like to take a ride on the beast, and we +may be sure they assented at once. Chang was directed to a place at the +side of a high wall, to which a sloping path led. The boys mounted to +the top of the wall, and were thus enabled to take their places on the +elephant's back. + +[Illustration: MODERN GOAD.] + +The driver said something in Siamese, and the elephant at once moved +off. He did not go fast enough to suit the driver, and then the goad +came into play. His neck was prodded with it, and the hook was inserted +into his ear in a way that made him understand and obey. The goad has +been in use without any modification of shape for two thousand years or +more, as is shown by ancient coins of a date prior to the Christian era. + +As soon as Chang found that the driver was determined to use the goad he +made no further opposition, and went along as peaceably as an obedient +horse. The elephant generally obeys through affection for his driver; +and instances have been known where one of these huge beasts has shown +great grief at the loss of his favorite keeper, and refused all food +until he literally starved to death. Very often the driver talks to the +elephant, and the beast seems to understand perfectly what is said to +him. Chang's driver did so, and hardly had he begun speaking before the +elephant swung his trunk from side to side, and gave little grunts of +satisfaction. The boys could not understand the language; but the +interpreter told them that the driver was praising Chang for his good +conduct, and asking him why he behaved so badly when the strangers came +so far to see him. And with an eye to his own pocket, he said, "They are +very nice gentlemen, and will certainly give some ticals to buy bananas +for good old Chang." Of course the interpreter told what had been said, +and the boys, when the ride was over, fulfilled the promise that had +been made on their behalf. + +[Illustration: A WAR ELEPHANT.] + +One of Chang's companions was led out from the stable, and assigned to +Doctor Bronson and the consul. The interpreter had mounted with the +boys, and so the officer who came by the command of the prince took a +place with the others. He told the consul that the animal they were +riding was trained for war purposes; and though he was occasionally put +at work, like Chang, whenever timber was to be hauled, he ordinarily had +nothing to do. Each of his tusks had three rings of silver encircling +it, and he was evidently proud of his ornaments. The famous white +elephants in the royal stables at Bangkok have rings of pure gold on +their tusks; they are not always sensible of the honor that is shown +them, and when the rings are being put in place they manifest their +displeasure in the most emphatic ways. On one occasion two of the court +jewellers were killed by an elephant that objected to be ornamented +after the customary manner of the country, and it was only after a long +time that he submitted to the operation. + +When used for war, these elephants are equipped with a howdah, or +basket, on their backs, and two or three soldiers are seated in it. They +have a plentiful supply of weapons, and frequently so many as to +encumber them greatly when they come to close quarters with the enemy. +Elephants are not used in battle as much as in ancient times; the great +body of the beast makes a magnificent mark for a rifle, and when wounded +an elephant is more dangerous to his friends than to the enemy. Formerly +a great number of elephants was kept for fighting purposes, but since +the introduction of fire-arms the value of this huge beast for anything +in war beyond the transportation of supplies has ceased to be apparent. +Consequently, they are not at all numerous; and probably, if the Siamese +were to indulge in war at the present time, they would not bring a +single elephant into the battle-field. + +Thus mounted, our friends went through the ruins of the ancient capital +of Siam. It was a novel promenade, and one that the boys were not likely +to forget in a hurry. + +"The funniest thing yet," said Frank. "We went through Tokio and Kioto +in jinrikishas; we rode on a wheelbarrow in Shanghai; we were carried in +sedan-chairs in Canton and Hong-kong; and here we are seeing the ruins +of Ayuthia from the back of an elephant. Wonder what we shall do next in +the way of novel travelling!" + +But though greatly enjoying their ride, they did not forget that they +were out for an excursion through a city, or rather through what was +once a city. And the magnitude and extent of the ruins impressed them +greatly, and showed what a magnificent place Ayuthia must have been in +the days of its glory. + +[Illustration: NEAR THE PALACE.] + +The streets and yards, and even the houses, were overgrown with tropical +trees that had been undisturbed for a hundred years and more; that they +had made good use of their time, was everywhere apparent in the +crumbling walls and the fallen towers that rose before the eyes of the +visitors wherever they were turned. In several instances the bushes and +climbing plants had completely covered the towers of the temples, and +made them appear more like a great mass of verdure than a structure of +brick and mortar. + +[Illustration: IN THE RUINED CITY.] + +At one place the party descended from their elephants and went to the +top of a wing of the former palace of Ayuthia. From the summit the view +was extensive, and of a character not easy to describe. Frank thought it +was not greatly unlike the view from the tower of Wat Seh Kate at +Bangkok, as the abundance of trees made it difficult to see much more +than the spires of the pagodas; and this was the most that could be seen +in Ayuthia. But as he looked directly below him, he saw that the streets +and court-yards were desolate, and he missed the throng of people that +made the streets of Bangkok alive. Many parts of the palace were in a +good state of preservation, and it seemed a pity that the city could not +be repaired and peopled as it was of old. + +It is said that when the Burmese overran Siam and captured her capital +in 1769, the walls were so massive, and the buildings so excellent in +construction, that the destruction of Ayuthia occupied nearly two +months. Many parts of the walls are still in existence, and it is not at +all difficult to trace the boundaries of the city. The distance it is +necessary to travel to pass around the city by following its walls, is +variously stated at from five to ten miles; and as our friends did not +make the journey, they have left the question undecided. + +A ruined city is a melancholy spectacle in any land and under any sky, +and the boys were not at all sorry when the excursion through Ayuthia +was over. They had more reasons than sentimental ones, as they found the +motion of the elephant was not particularly agreeable when continued for +a long time, and it required a good deal of attention to keep from +falling off the back of their new-fashioned steed. When they dismounted +at the stables, they were obliged to stretch themselves two or three +times to make sure that their backbones were in the proper place, and +both were positive that they had all the elephant-riding they cared +for--for that day at least. + +"It is nothing when you get used to it," said the consul. "If you had a +journey of several days or weeks to make on an elephant, you would +become accustomed to the motion in a short time, and could then endure +it indefinitely." + +The Doctor confirmed this view of the matter, and said the motion of the +elephant was not nearly as hard as that of the camel for a beginner, and +much easier to endure. "A camel," said he, "shakes you violently forward +and back without cessation, while the motion of the elephant is not +unlike that of a horse at a walk. If you have not mounted a horse for a +long time, you will find yourself very sore and stiff after your first +day's travel on the gentlest steed that was ever used, and this feeling +will continue for two or three days. By degrees you get accustomed to +it, and then you pay no farther attention to aches or pains, for the +reason that you do not have them. It is just the same with an elephant +or a camel, only the camel is much the worse. + +"In some respects the elephant is a most remarkable animal. He possesses +great intelligence, and can be taught to do many things that border upon +reason. Books of natural history are full of incidents of the elephant's +high order of intellect; the stories may sometimes be exaggerated, but +there is no question that the majority of them are correct. In nothing +is this more apparent than in the capture of his wild kindred; and it is +a curious fact that the elephant, after being thoroughly domesticated, +manifests no desire to return to his forest-life, and seems to take +pleasure in assisting at the capture of others. We will talk about this +business by-and-by, and meantime will complete our study of Ayuthia." + +So far as the actual inspection of the ruined city was concerned, the +study to which the Doctor referred was already completed, and the party +returned to the boat. + +Frank asked if it was not possible to go farther up the river, and make +a general exploration of Siam. Fred seconded him in the question, which +was anxiously propounded to the consul and Doctor Bronson. + +"There are several reasons why we cannot do it," the former answered. +"In the first place, we are limited for time of using the steam-launch +and barge; secondly, I cannot spare the time to go farther; thirdly, we +have not the necessary provisions and equipments for a wild journey; +and, fourthly--" + +"Never mind the other reasons," said the Doctor; "those you have given +are quite sufficient. We will go back, and be thankful that we have seen +so much. Only a few visitors to Siam ever have the opportunity of coming +to Ayuthia and seeing its wonderful ruins." + +As the boat moved off, on her return to Bangkok, the consul explained to +the boys that the Menam was about nine hundred miles in length, and had +a general course from north to south. It flows through an exceedingly +fertile country, and the Siamese are very proud of it. Its name in +Siamese means "Mother of Waters;" and though it is not to the country +what the Nile is to Egypt, it is certainly of great importance. From the +source of the river to its mouth, the forest is dense and luxurious, +except where clearings have been made for purposes of agriculture. Teak, +sapan, and other tropical trees grow to a great size, and the underbrush +is so thick that it is next to impossible to walk about until a path has +been opened. + +Fred thought it would be nice to have a bath in the Menam; and proposed +that they should try a swim in its waters the first time they had an +opportunity. + +[Illustration: CROCODILES AT HOME.] + +"I would advise you not to try it," the consul answered. "It is safe +enough at Bangkok, where there is so much movement of boats, and you +might bathe there without danger. But in this part of the river there +are plenty of crocodiles, and the higher up you go the more of them do +you find. M. Mouhot, who explored the Upper Menam in 1861, and died at +the village of Louang Prebang in that year, says that in some instances +he found the banks covered with crocodiles basking in the sun, and they +were so unused to attacks that they were not at all disturbed by the +presence of his boat. They frequently swallow incautious swimmers who +venture into the parts of the river where they abound; and sometimes +cattle going to the river to drink are seized by them. In such fights +the crocodile is generally the victor, as he is thoroughly at home in +the water, and his jaws have an enormous amount of strength." + +[Illustration: TAKING A BITE.] + +"What is the difference between the alligator and the crocodile?" one of +the boys asked. + +"There is no material difference," the Doctor answered, "between the +two. The alligator is American, and the crocodile Asiatic; and there is +a slight difference in the formation of the head, and in the number and +arrangement of the scales. The habits of the two are similar; they live +in the water for the greater part of the time, but do not suffer any +inconvenience when removed from it. They live mainly on fish, but have +no prejudice against swallowing other game. Hence their fondness for +men, and also for pigs, sheep, dogs, cattle, and anything else that +comes in their way. The tastes of both are identical; and I presume that +if you brought a crocodile and an alligator together, and put them to +live in the same tank, they would acknowledge their relationship, and +dwell in peace and quietness. On the other hand, they might indulge in a +deadly combat; and in this, again, their similarity would be shown, as +they are not always of an amiable disposition, and often indulge in +fierce battles." + +Fred asked if it was possible for them to stop on the way down the river +and have a hunt for crocodiles. + +Frank retorted that they had no fire-arms for shooting this kind of game +or any other; and it was his opinion that their captures would not be +numerous under the present circumstances. + +[Illustration: THE DOCTOR'S CRACK SHOT.] + +"To shoot a crocodile," said the Doctor, "you must first have him where +you can shoot, and then you must have the weapon ready. It must be a +powerful rifle, carrying a large ball; and there are very few places on +the reptile's body where your shot will have any effect. If you are an +expert with the rifle, you may hit him in the eye when he is swimming +across a stream; the bullet penetrates the brain, and causes speedy +death; but if you strike him an inch away from the eye, your shot is +wasted. I once killed a large alligator in this way; it was the first I +had ever shot, and I was very proud of my achievement. The next day and +the next I tried to repeat the performance, and I kept it up for a week +without result. I was unable to get a similar chance, as not one of the +reptiles made his appearance, though the bayou was full of them. + +[Illustration: ALLIGATOR AND CRANE.] + +"The alligator makes great use of his tail in fighting, and in sweeping +his game into his mouth. A blow of the tail from even a small alligator +will break a man's leg, and I have known it to cut off a tree two inches +in diameter. When the fellow wishes to capture anything, he tries to +creep along-side, and when within reach he opens his mouth and sweeps +his great tail around at the same instant, and the prize disappears down +his capacious throat. Once I saw an alligator lying on a bank where some +cranes were feeding not far away. He was motionless as a log--which he +much resembled--but I could see that he had his eye open, and was on the +lookout for a breakfast. By-and-by one of the cranes wandered near him, +and like a flash his tail swept the bird into his mouth. Then he +stretched out and 'set himself again,' as my guide said, for another +crane. + +[Illustration: THE TROCHILUS.] + +"It is a curious circumstance, mentioned by Herodotus, and greatly +discussed since his time, that there is a small bird called the +_trochilus_ that fearlessly enters the mouth of the crocodile, and +relieves it of the leeches and flies that disturb it. The bird and the +crocodile seem to be on the most friendly terms; and it is thought by +some writers that the bird performs the additional service of sentinel +to its huge friend, and warns him of the approach of danger." + +[Illustration: TROCHILUS AND CROCODILE.] + +Fred suggested that it was just possible that the bird was only an +inquisitive fellow, and finding the crocodile's mouth open, he looked in +to see what sort of a house it would make. And the crocodile, on his +part, did not think the little bird was large enough to pay him for +shutting his jaws on it; and so the intruder escaped solely on account +of his diminutive size. + +"When you see a crocodile or an alligator asleep on a bank," the Doctor +continued, "you can, perhaps, get a good shot by creeping near enough to +send a bullet under his fore-leg. The skin there is not protected by +scales, and a bullet will penetrate it. Especially if you have explosive +balls that burst on the moment of concussion, you can tear a great hole +inside your game, and seriously interfere with his digestion. I shot one +once in this way on a sand-bar in the Nile, a few miles above the first +cataract; he was nearly twenty feet long, and it took my men a whole day +to remove his skin. I was within thirty paces of him when I fired, and, +as I had good aim, I sent the bullet exactly where I wished, he gave a +few convulsive movements with his tail, and then stretched out stiff and +dead." + +The Doctor paused; and the consul took up the conversation with an +account a friend had given him of a fight between a bear and an +alligator in Western Louisiana. + +"My friend was out hunting one day," said the consul, "and was suddenly +startled by a loud roaring in the bushes not far off. He cautiously +crept near, expecting to see a couple of bulls preparing for combat; +what was his astonishment to see a large bear and a full-grown alligator +eying each other, and poising themselves for an encounter. + +"Bruin was on his hind legs, his mouth was covered with foam, and there +were several streams of blood on his black coat. The alligator was on +the tiptoes of all his legs, and he lashed his tail furiously, and kept +his great jaws moving as if trying their ability to close on the bear at +the proper moment. + +[Illustration: THE ALLIGATOR AND THE BEAR.] + +"The bear growled, and the alligator roared like a bull; and it was his +roaring that had attracted my friend's attention. They had evidently +indulged in a clinch before he saw them, and were making ready for a +second round. For fully a minute they remained in the attitudes in which +he first beheld them, and neither could make up his mind how to take the +best hold. Finally Bruin dropped on all fours, and ran at the alligator; +the latter met him by throwing his head and body to one side, and +delivering a blow with his tail that knocked the bear over on the +ground, and rolled him several yards away. The blow sounded as though it +had been given with a club with the force of half a dozen men, and it is +safe to say that the strongest man would have been killed by it. + +"The bear was not discouraged, for he picked himself up and ran once +more at the alligator. He did it three times in succession, and with the +same result; the alligator knocking him over each time. + +"Bruin now saw that he must change his tactics. He made his next run in +such a way as to avoid the tail, and he was fairly on the alligator's +body before the blow could be given. The great tail was lashed furiously +from side to side, but to no purpose, as it could not hit the bear +either way. The force of the charge upset the alligator, and turned him +completely over; the bear's jaws closed on one of his fore-legs, while +the shaggy paws were clasped around the scaly body. The reptile was in a +bad way, as his great weapon of warfare, the tail, was useless; and his +neck was not flexible enough to enable him to bite. He roared in +despair, and then bethought himself of a new trick. + +"His tail, as he lashed it around, happened to hit a small tree; he +pushed against this tree as with a lever, and by using it as a fulcrum +he managed to wriggle along to the bank. Then another convulsive +movement threw him and his antagonist into the water. + +"The bank from which they fell was about four feet high, and they +tumbled in with a loud splash. They disappeared below the surface, and +were out of sight for nearly two minutes. The bear came up, and, after +scrambling to the shore, he gave a brief glance at the stream, to make +sure that there was no chance of renewing the combat; then, shaking the +water from his skin, he hurried off into the forest. My friend could +have shot the bear with the utmost ease, but in consideration for the +courage and determination he had shown he did not do so." + +"He was right," said Frank; "such bravery should command respect." + +"But how about the alligator's part of the fight?" the Doctor asked. + +"As to that," responded the youth, "the alligator deserves no credit. +When he found he could not conquer the bear on equal terms, he sneaked +into the river. He could live in the air or in the water, while the bear +could not fight below the surface of the stream, and could not even live +there. All the alligator had to do was to sink in the water, and the +bear must drown or let go his hold. I like the bear's bravery, but don't +think much of the other fellow." + +"No more do I," Fred chimed in; "and it is a pity that the alligator +could not have been shot before he rolled from the bank. All the race of +crocodiles is a cruel one, and ought to be exterminated." + +"They are fast being driven from existence," said the Doctor. +"Twenty-five years ago they were numerous in the Nile below Luxor; while +to-day they are rarely seen below the first cataract, which is more than +a hundred miles above Luxor. They are also becoming scarce in the rivers +of India; and the alligators in the southern parts of the United States +are not nearly as numerous as they were. Still, there are enough for all +the demand that is likely to be made for them, and anybody who will +invent a way of killing them rapidly will confer a benefit upon the +human race." + +[Illustration: JUST HATCHED.] + +"In regions where these reptiles abound, the natives have adopted the +sensible plan of destroying the eggs whenever they find a nest. The +nests are made in the sand or on a bank of earth, and the female +alligator usually lays from twenty to forty--rarely more than the latter +number. They are hatched by the heat of the sun: the mother does not sit +on the nest like a hen, but she stays in the neighborhood and fights for +their protection. When the chicks emerge from the shell they hurry off +to the water, or to a hiding-place in the mud; and they seem to +understand that they will be subject to many dangers until they get +large enough to defend themselves. Cranes and fish are fond of them in +their tender youth, and even the fathers of the alligator family seem to +mistake them for frogs, and eat them with apparent delight. + +"In some parts of India the natives dig a circular pit, and cover it with +sticks and leaves. The pit surrounds a little island or mound of earth, +and is close to a stream where crocodiles abound. On the mound they +fasten a young goat, and his bleatings during the night attract the +crocodiles, who break the slight floor of sticks with their heavy +bodies, and fall into the pit prepared for them. Heavy stakes are set in +the bottom of the pit, and as the reptile falls he is generally impaled +on one or more of them. + +"I have read of a famous old crocodile who defied all the ordinary +modes of capture, in one of the rivers of India. Finally an English +officer hit upon a trick that was successful. He put a pound of powder +in a can, and attached it to an electric wire, so that he could explode +it at pleasure; then he placed this can inside the carcass of a sheep, +and by means of a rope floated it over where the crocodile lay. The +crocodile rose and swallowed the bait; the officer, who was standing +ready with his electric battery on the shore, completed the connection +of the wires, and an instant afterwards the reptile that had been a +terror to the neighborhood had ceased to exist. The can of powder +exploded in his stomach, and his body, when it came to the surface, was +so torn and distorted that it could hardly be recognized as the remains +of a crocodile." + +[Illustration: COMING OUT TO SUN HIMSELF.] + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +STORIES OF ELEPHANT-HUNTING.--SCENES OF THE CHASE. + + +When the topic of crocodiles and their relatives had been exhausted, +Fred reminded the Doctor of his promise to tell them something of the +ways of hunting elephants. + +"I was just coming to that," said Doctor Bronson, "and have been trying +to refresh my memory on the subject. I do not know how they hunt +elephants in Siam, but from the appearance of the corral near the +elephants' stables, I infer that the process is pretty nearly the same +in all countries where the elephant is found in a wild state. + +[Illustration: AN ELEPHANT FENCE.] + +"You observed that the corral, or yard, at Ayuthia was constructed of +upright logs set into the earth in the form of a palisade. In Ceylon it +is made of heavy posts, with strong timbers placed horizontally, the +whole interlaced and bound with withes, and braced with slanting posts +on the outside. The fence is generally about fifteen feet high, and the +openings in it will easily allow a man to pass through. At Ayuthia you +saw that the posts of the corral permit the same thing; the fence is +like a sieve, that strains men through without difficulty, but catches +the elephants. + +[Illustration: FORM OF A CORRAL.] + +"Here is the general appearance of the fence," said the Doctor, as he +took his pencil and drew on a sheet of paper, "and here is the shape of +the corral. The corral is a pen, and the word is derived from the +Spanish, and means a ring or enclosure. The space enclosed is generally +about five hundred feet long by half that width, and at one end there is +a gate that can be opened and shut very quickly, and is large enough to +permit the passage of but one elephant at a time. There is an avenue, +shaped like the letter V, which leads up to the corral, and converges on +the side where the gate is placed. It is concealed as much as possible +by brushwood, and where it begins it is so slight as to be hardly +perceptible. It extends a long distance into the forest, and a great +deal of skill is required to construct it successfully. + +[Illustration: BEGINNING THE DRIVE.] + +"When the corral has been arranged, and is ready for occupation, the +herd is supposed to be in its vicinity. Eight or ten weeks have been +spent in driving in the elephants; the forest where they roam has been +surrounded very cautiously, and several herds have been driven together +so slowly and quietly, that none of the sagacious beasts has any +suspicion that he is being entrapped. Sometimes hundreds of men are +employed in driving in the herds, and an area is surrounded equal to +several counties of an American state. Day by day the circle grows +narrower, and finally the men composing it are able to build fires ten +or twelve feet from each other. Not till then do they consider the game +fairly bagged, and now they throw off all deception and adopt new +tactics. Where before all was still, is now a scene of wild confusion; +the men make a loud noise, with musical and unmusical instruments, and +each of them carries a torch, which he waves wildly in the air. They do +this on three sides of the herd, while the fourth side, in the direction +of the corral, is left conveniently open. + +[Illustration: DRIVING INTO THE CORRAL.] + +"The elephants are frightened, and rush in the desired direction; they +now begin to suspect a snare, and frequently try to break through the +line of men and rush back to their forest home. The men pelt them with +the torches, and strike them with the burning sticks, till they turn +around again and go where they are wanted; gradually they near the end +of the corral, and finally a few of them make their way through the gate +and are securely trapped. The natives rush forward and close the bars of +the gate, and the rest of the herd is permitted to stray a little way +back into the woods, but it is carefully kept from going too far. + +"When they find they are caught, the elephants rush wildly round the +corral, trying first one part of the fence and then another, in the hope +of escaping. Wherever they go, they are met at the fence by men with +flaming torches; and they are further terrified by discharges of +musketry, and the sound of horns and trumpets. This performance is kept +up for several hours of the day, and generally through the night; and at +daybreak they make ready to secure the captives, and prepare the corral +for a second lot of elephants. + +"It is in this work that the elephant shows the peculiarity of his +nature, in using all his sagacity to assist in the capture of his +kindred. He seems to know what is wanted of him, and invariably appears +to take great delight in doing it." + +"Elephant nature is not altogether unlike human nature," remarked the +consul, with a smile. "Not a few of our fellow-men, whenever they fall +upon misfortune, are desirous of having others to share it with them." + +"It is an old adage that misery loves company," said Fred. + +"But I hope it is not a true one," Frank responded. "Perhaps we had +better give the human race the benefit of any doubt on the subject, and +say that the quality we have been talking about is elephant nature, and +does not belong to us." + +His proposal was accepted, and the account of elephant-hunting was +resumed. + +"The removal of the captives requires a good deal of skill and caution, +both on the part of the tame elephants and on that of the attendants. +Here is an excellent account of this operation: + +"The bars which secured the entrance to the corral were cautiously +withdrawn, and two trained elephants passed stealthily in, each ridden +by his _mahout_--or _ponnekella_, as he is called in Ceylon--and one +attendant, and carrying a strong collar, formed by coils of rope made +from cocoa-nut fibre, from which hung on each side cords of elk's hide, +prepared with a ready noose. Along with them, and concealed behind them, +the head-men of the _cooroowe_, or noosers, crept in, eager to secure +the honor of taking the first elephant--a distinction which this class +jealously contests with the mahouts of the chiefs and the temples. He +was a wiry little man, nearly seventy years old, who had served in the +same capacity under the Kandyan king, and wore two silver bangles, which +had been conferred on him in testimony of his prowess. He was +accompanied by his son, named Ranghanie, equally renowned for his +courage and dexterity. + +"On this occasion ten tame elephants were in attendance; one of which +had been caught only the year before, but was now ready to assist in +capturing others. One was of prodigious age, having been in the service +of the Dutch and English governments in succession, for upwards of a +century. The other, called by her keeper 'Siribeddi,' was about fifty +years old, and distinguished for her gentleness and docility. She was a +most accomplished decoy, and evinced the utmost relish for the sport. +Having entered the corral noiselessly, she moved slowly along with a sly +composure and an assumed air of easy indifference; sauntering leisurely +in the direction of the captives, and halting now and then to pluck a +bunch of grass or a few leaves, as she passed. As she approached the +herd, they put themselves in motion to meet her, and the leader, having +advanced in front and passed his trunk gently over her head, turned and +paced slowly back to his dejected companions. Siribeddi followed with +the same listless step, and drew herself up close behind him, thus +affording the nooser an opportunity to stoop under her and slip the +noose over the hind foot of the wild one. The elephant instantly +perceived his danger, shook off the rope, and turned to attack the man. +The latter would have suffered for his temerity, had not Siribeddi +protected him by raising her trunk and driving the assailant into the +middle of the herd, when the old man, being slightly wounded, was helped +out of the corral, and his son, Ranghanie, took his place. + +"The herd again collected in a circle, with their heads towards the +centre. The largest male was singled out, and two tame ones pushed +boldly in, one on each side of him, till the three stood nearly abreast. +He made no resistance, but betrayed his uneasiness by shifting +restlessly from foot to foot. Ranghanie now crept up; holding the rope +open with both hands, its other extremity being made fast to Siribeddi's +collar, and watching the instant when the wild elephant lifted its hind +foot, he succeeded in passing the noose over its leg, drew it close, and +fled to the rear. The two tame elephants now fell back; Siribeddi +stretched the rope to its full length, and while she dragged out the +captive, her companion placed himself between her and the herd to +prevent any interference. + +[Illustration: SECURING THE CAPTIVES.] + +"In order to secure him to a tree, he had to be dragged back some +twenty or thirty yards, making furious resistance, bellowing in terror, +plunging on all sides, and crushing the smaller timber, which bent like +reeds beneath his clumsy struggles. Siribeddi drew him steadily after +her, and wound the rope round the proper tree, holding it all the time +at its fullest tension, and stepping cautiously across it when, in order +to give it a second turn, it was necessary to pass between the tree and +the elephant. + +[Illustration: SIRIBEDDI'S PRIZE.] + +"One after the other the herd was secured, in spite of their resistance; +and the whole time consumed in disposing of an elephant, from the moment +the decoys approached him till he was secured to a tree, was about +three-quarters of an hour. The captives tried all possible ways to +escape, but it was of no use; they were fastened to the trees, and the +cords were so strong and so well tied that the greatest exertions of the +prisoners were of no effect whatever. Some of the tricks they practised +in endeavoring to escape were very ingenious, and showed that the +elephant in his wild state has the full development of the sagacity +which he displays in captivity. Their strength is enormous, and +sometimes they pull down trees in their struggles. + +[Illustration: THE PRISONERS TIED UP.] + +"It is a curious circumstance," the Doctor continued, "that the tame +elephant who is assisting at the capture of his kindred never displays +the least sympathy for them; while they, on the other hand, show a great +deal of it for each other. When a captive, who is being dragged to a +tree, passes one that is already tied up, he will stop and twine his +trunk around the other's legs and neck, and manifest in all the ways +that he can a deep sorrow for what has happened. + +[Illustration: A LITTLE HEAD WORK.] + +"When the animals are secured the corral presents a curious spectacle. +The great beasts are stretched out in various attitudes, their feet +fastened to the trees, and sometimes spread far apart. They moan and +bellow for hours together; they seize hold of the trees with their +trunks, and exhaust all their ingenuity in endeavoring to get free. When +all other means have failed, they will often try to escape by turning +somersaults; and it is interesting to see an elephant balancing himself +on his head, and endeavoring to throw his heels in the air. For awhile +they refuse to eat or drink, and sometimes they literally starve +themselves to death. I have heard of several instances where they have +refused to move or eat, and remain motionless for days, till they die. +It is generally the finest elephant of a herd that kills himself in this +way; the natives say he dies of a broken heart, and I am quite inclined +to believe that such is the case. And it sometimes happens that after an +elephant has been tamed, and is thoroughly obedient to his keeper, he +will lie down and die on the very first attempt to harness him. + +[Illustration: IN A HEAP OF TROUBLE.] + +"There is a story of an elephant in Ceylon, which was one of the finest +that had been taken in a long while. He resisted a good deal when first +captured; and when they were removing him from the corral to the +stables, a distance of about six miles, he was so obstinate that the +journey occupied several hours. He escaped once, but was afterwards +recaptured and became very docile; but when he was taken to Colombo, he +stopped in front of the gate of the fort, and would not enter. While +they were trying to persuade him to go inside, he lay down on the ground +and died, without the least struggle." + +Frank asked in what way the elephants are tamed, after they have been +captured and tied up as the Doctor described. + +"They are subdued," said the Doctor, "partly by starvation, and partly +by kind treatment. Hunger is the great force used, as the elephant is +not allowed to have any food until he shows signs of becoming tractable. +Sometimes he is starved for a week or more; but he is allowed to satisfy +his thirst to a limited extent. When he indicates that he has become +docile, and is accustomed to the presence of his keeper, he is released +and taken to the stables, where he is well fed. No attempt is made to +harness him for some time, but he is exercised with the other elephants, +and gradually reconciles himself to a captive state. In nine cases out +of ten he never shows the least inclination to rebel, but accepts his +new condition of life with perfect resignation; and, as I have before +told you, he is quite ready and willing to assist in the capture of his +former comrades. + +"In some parts of Asia the natives capture elephants by digging deep +pits, and covering them with bushes and leaves, so that the trap is +quite concealed. The herd is then driven in the direction of the pit, +and some of the animals fall into it. A guard is placed over them, and +they are kept without food for seven or eight days, and even for a +longer period if they do not submit. When they are conquered, the sides +of the pit are dug down, and they are led out of the place of their +imprisonment. There is a very good story connected with this mode of +capture; it is an old one, and evidently the Eastern version of the +fable of the mouse and the lion, which is in all the story-books." + +"Tell it, please," said Fred; and the request was echoed by his cousin. + +"I will tell it," said the Doctor, "though I fear you may consider it +too juvenile for you. + +"Hundreds of years ago an elephant was taken in a pit in a forest in +India. He bemoaned his fate, and wept aloud. The guard that had been +left over him was asleep under a tree, and a priest who was passing +heard his lamentations and tried to console him. + +"'Alas!' said the elephant, 'there can be no consolation for me. I must +stay in this pit till I am subdued, and then I shall be the slave of +man. No one can save me.' + +"'Don't be so sure of that,' replied the priest. 'If you have ever done +a good action to anybody, you can call him to your aid, and he will +assist you. Think of some service you have given, and perhaps it will +now be of use to you.' + +"'I have done services on several occasions,' the elephant answered; +'but those who were favored were so small that they can now do nothing +for a great body like me.' + +"'Tell me one of them,' said the priest. + +"'Last year,' said the elephant, 'the prince of this province had +captured the king of the rats, and a great many of his subjects. He had +them in earthen jars, and was about to drown them; but I came along in +the night and broke all the jars, so that the rats ran away and were +free. + +[Illustration: REFUSING TO MOVE ON.] + +"'And another time a man had the queen of the tribe of the parrots in a +cage, and hung it on a tree where nobody could reach it. I pulled the +tree down and broke the cage, so that the queen flew away to her +companions.' + +"Just then the scream of a parrot was heard from a neighboring tree, and +the priest said to the elephant, + +"'Call that parrot, and ask him to go and tell his queen to come and see +her benefactor, who is now in trouble? + +"The elephant protested that it would be of no use, as the parrot could +not help him in any way, no matter how willing she was to do so. But the +priest insisted, and the elephant obeyed. + +"In a little while the queen came, and then the priest told the elephant +to send her with a message to the king of the rats. Away she flew, and +told the rat king how their old benefactor had fallen into a pit. + +"The king sent out his messengers to all parts of his dominions, and by +the next morning they were assembled to the number of several millions. +The king ordered them to follow him, and they went to where the elephant +was entrapped. The parrot queen was there ahead of them, and she had +brought millions of her subjects. The guards were now awake, but the +parrot queen talked to them and amused them, and she kept flying off a +little way at a time, till she drew them out of sight of the pit. Then +the rats began scratching at the edge of the pit; and though each of +them only threw down a very little earth at a time, there was soon a +large path sloping to where the elephant stood. At the same time the +millions of parrots began breaking little twigs from the trees, and +dropping them into the pit; the elephant piled these twigs and the earth +beneath him, and in a few hours he walked out of the pit, and away into +the forest, where he joined his companions and told them what had +happened. + +"'Who would have thought,' he said to his fellow-elephants, 'that the +largest animal in the world could be saved by such insignificant +creatures as the parrot and the rat. Hereafter I will never despise +small things, or despair of being brought out of trouble. Good actions +will be rewarded, no matter how insignificant may be their recipient.'" + +"A very pretty story!" exclaimed both the boys in a breath. + +"It is a story with a moral," Doctor Bronson answered; "and I leave you +to apply it while we have a little more talk about the elephant." + +"A baby elephant is about the most amusing beast in the world; he is +affectionate and playful to a high degree, and there is little +difficulty in taming him. Very often the young elephants are taken in +the corrals with their mothers, whom they follow to the tying-down +place, and thence to the stables when the captives are released from +their bonds. A gentleman at Colombo had one that was sent down to his +house from the corral where he was taken, and he very soon became a +favorite with everybody about the place. He stayed generally near the +kitchen, where he picked up a good many things of which he was fond; and +sometimes, when the gentleman was walking in the grounds, the young +giant would come to him and twine his trunk around his arm, to indicate +that he wanted to be taken to the fruit-trees. He used to be admitted to +the dining-room, and helped to fruit at dessert, and he finally got to +coming in at odd times when not invited. On two or three occasions he +managed to break all the glasses on a sideboard, while reaching for some +oranges in a basket, and finally he became so mischievous that he had to +be sent away. While he was at the house the grass-cutters occasionally +placed their loads of grass on his back, and whenever this was done he +strutted off with an air of the greatest pride at the confidence that +was shown in him. After he was sent to the government stables he became +very docile; and when his turn came for work, he performed it to the +satisfaction of everybody. + +[Illustration: SLIDING DOWN HILL.] + +"It is said that elephants amuse themselves by sliding downhill; but +they do not use sleds, like boys in America. Natives who claim to have +witnessed these performances say that the huge beasts enter into the +sport with great enthusiasm, and keep it up for hours. + +[Illustration: ELEPHANT-HUNTING ON FOOT.] + +"Elephants are hunted with the rifle by English and other sportsmen; and +thousands of them have been killed in this way for the sake of their +tusks, or for mere amusement. Their number has been so much diminished +by this means, that in India and Ceylon the government has taken the +elephant under its protection, and it can only be pursued and +slaughtered by the express permission of the officials. At present the +paradise of elephant-hunters is in Africa. The African elephant is much +like his Asiatic brother; but his ear is nearly three times as large as +that of the latter, and his skin has fewer hairs upon it. + +"He is a vicious brute, and often turns on his hunter and puts him to a +rapid flight. I have read of an Englishman who was one day chasing an +African elephant, and, after a great deal of manoeuvring, got near +enough to give him a shot. It was fortunate for the hunter that he was +well-mounted and had a firm seat in his saddle, as the wounded elephant +turned after the shot was fired and crashed through the bushes in the +direction of his assailant. Horse and rider had a narrow escape, and the +two dogs that accompanied the sportsman came in for a share of the +fright. The hunter concluded that he would let the elephant go his way +unmolested; and when the enraged animal turned back into the forest he +was not followed." + +"It reminds me," said the consul, "of the story of the army officer in +India who was asked if he found tiger-hunting a pleasant amusement. +'Hunting the tiger,' said he, 'is very pleasant as long as the tiger is +hunted; but when he turns and hunts you, the pleasure ceases +altogether.'" + +[Illustration: THE HUNTER HUNTED.] + +"It is about the same with the chase of the wild elephant," the Doctor +remarked. As he said it, the servant announced the readiness of +something to eat in the cabin, and the conversation was suspended until +the party was seated at table. + +"In some parts of the East," Doctor Bronson continued, "it is the custom +for princes and kings to give grand entertainments in the shape of +elephant fights. Sometimes two elephants are matched together; but quite +as often they are pitted against some other beast. Formerly these fights +were carried on till one of the combatants was dead or severely hurt; +but at present an effort is made to keep them from injuring each other, +and the fight is little more than a series of rather violent pushes from +one side of the ring to the other. + +"Mr. Crawfurd, who was sent at the head of an embassy from the +Governor-general of India to Siam and Cochin China in 1821, was present +at a tiger and elephant fight in Saigon. His account is interesting in +two ways; it shows the manner of conducting one of these fights, and +gives us a glimpse at the manners of the Far East sixty years ago. After +detailing his reception by the governor, he says: + + "We were invited to be present at an elephant and tiger fight, and + for this purpose we mounted our elephants and repaired to the + glacis of the fort, where the combat was to take place. A great + concourse of people had assembled to witness the exhibition. The + tiger was secured to a stake by a rope tied round his loins, and + about thirty yards long. The mouth of the unfortunate animal was + sewn up, and his nails drawn out; he was of large size, and + extremely active. No less than forty-six elephants, all males and + of great size, were seen drawn out in line. One at a time was + brought to attack the tiger. + + "The first elephant advanced, to all appearance, with a great show + of courage, and we thought, from his determined look, that he would + certainly have despatched his antagonist in an instant. At the + first effort he raised the tiger on his tusks to a considerable + height, and threw him to the distance of at least twenty feet. + Notwithstanding this, the tiger rallied and sprung upon the + elephant's trunk and head, up to the very keeper, who was upon his + neck. The elephant took alarm, wheeled about, and ran off, pursued + by the tiger as far as the rope would allow him. The fugitive, + although not hurt, roared most piteously, and no effort could bring + him back to the charge. A little after this, we saw a man brought + up to the governor, bound with cords, and dragged into his presence + by two officers. + + "'This was the conductor of the recreant elephant. A hundred + strokes of the bamboo were ordered to be inflicted upon him on the + spot. For this purpose he was thrown on his face on the ground, and + secured by one man sitting astride upon his neck and shoulders, and + by another sitting upon his feet, a succession of executioners + inflicting the punishment. When it was over, two men carried off + the sufferer by the head and heels, apparently quite insensible. + + "'While this outrage was perpetrating, the governor coolly viewed + the combat of the tiger and elephant, as if nothing else particular + had been going forward. Ten or twelve elephants were brought up in + succession to attack the tiger, which was killed at last, merely by + the astonishing falls he received when tossed off the tusks of the + elephants. The prodigious strength of these animals was far beyond + anything I could have supposed. Some of them tossed the tiger to a + distance of at least thirty feet, after he was nearly lifeless, and + could offer no resistance. We could not reflect without horror that + these very individual animals were the same that have for years + executed the sentence of the law upon the many malefactors + condemned to death. Upon these occasions, a single toss, such as I + have described, is always, I am told, sufficient to destroy life.'" + +[Illustration: TAKING A NAP.] + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +BANG-PA-IN TO BANGKOK.--STUDIES IN NATURAL HISTORY AND BOTANY. + + +As they returned down the river the boat stopped at Bang-pa-in, to +enable the young tourists to have a view of the place. The name means, +"City on an Island," and is a literal description of the situation. The +island is not very wide in proportion to its length, and the boys found +that the beauties of the spot were quite up to the expectation they had +formed during their journey up the river. They walked through the +gardens, which were laid out with exquisite taste, and sat beneath the +trees, whose dense foliage afforded a grateful shade; they were shown +through the palace, found it furnished in European style, and their +sharp eyes caught sight of a piano, which gave a hint of the musical +taste of the king. The officer in charge of the place showed an album of +monograms which his majesty had arranged, and some pencil sketches that +were the work of the royal hands. The boys were consoled for the absence +of the king by the reflection that if he had been present the palace +would not have been open to visitors, and some of the interesting sights +of Bang-pa-in would have escaped them. + +When they reached the landing to continue their journey, they found a +native boat along-side their own with fruits and other things to sell. +By direction of Doctor Bronson, the interpreter bought a selection of +what was in the market; and, as soon as they were again in motion, the +boys employed their eyes and palates in a scientific investigation of +the good things before them. + +The first article that they discussed was a green cocoa-nut. Frank +wondered what use they could make of it, and Fred suggested that they +might keep it till it was ripe. + +One of the servants speedily put an end to their suspense. With a +dexterity that was evidently the result of long practice, he cut away +the husk, and then made a hole in the shell of the nut large enough for +the easy insertion of one's thumb. The opening revealed the interior of +the nut, with a slight accumulation of white pulp close to the shell, +while all the rest of the enclosed space was filled with milk. When it +was thus prepared he handed the nut to Frank, and immediately opened +another, which he gave to Fred. + +Frank laughed, and said, "What shall we do with it?" + +"Drink the milk, and throw away the shell," replied the Doctor, as he +took one from the hands of the servant, and suited his action to his +words. + +The boys did as they were directed, and the drink was followed by an +exclamation of delight. + +[Illustration: COCOA-NUTS FULL GROWN AND JUST FORMING.] + +They found the milk of the cocoa-nut a cool and refreshing beverage; +and, on the assurance of the consul that they might take all they wished +without fear of injury to their digestion, they proceeded with the +demolition of more and more nuts, until the basket was emptied. The +consul told them that the juice of the green cocoa-nut was a favorite +beverage throughout Siam, and was considered by some people as far safer +to drink than the water of the river. + +"There is a good deal of vegetable matter in the river water," said he, +"and it is undoubtedly the cause of derangements of the stomach when +freely used. But the juice of the nut is pure and healthy, and its +slightly acid taste makes it welcome to the palate. It is cool, as you +have seen, and the acidity doubtless causes it to seem to be of a lower +temperature than the surrounding atmosphere." + +[Illustration: THE BREAD-FRUIT.] + +Fred asked if the famous bread-fruit was in the lot they had bought, and +was rather disappointed at its absence. But a bread-fruit tree was +pointed out to him as they floated down the river, and he made note of +the fact that it was about forty feet high, and had a leaf nearly two +feet long. The fruit resembled a large, very large apple, or perhaps a +small melon; and the Doctor told him that the outer husk furnished a +fibre like that of the cocoa-nut, which could be made into a sort of +coarse cloth. + +The Doctor further explained that the bread-fruit was baked in the +shell, the same as an oyster is roasted, and that the inner pulp, when +thus cooked, resembled a sweet-potato in taste, and was very nutritious. +To the touch it was not unlike the soft part of a loaf of bread, and its +name was due to this latter quality rather than to its taste. "It +forms," said he, "the chief sustenance of the inhabitants of many of the +islands of the South Pacific Ocean, and is to be found nearly everywhere +in the tropics. It was introduced into the West Indies about a century +ago, and its cultivation has been very successful in that region; later +it was planted in Central America, and has become so well known and used +that the natives rely largely upon it for their food. The product of +three trees in some of the Pacific Islands will support a man for a +year; and it is no wonder that he becomes lazy when he has nothing to do +but pluck his food from a tree." + +[Illustration: PINEAPPLE.] + +When they had finished with the cocoa-nuts, they had a fine pineapple; +and they remarked that its freshness made it sweeter and better than any +pineapple they had ever eaten at home. Frank made a sketch of this +fruit, with its long and sharp-pointed leaves, and then he drew the +inside of a fruit which, for want of a better name, he called a +star-apple. It had a purple skin, and resembled an orange in shape and +size; the pulp was white, and, when it was cut across, the cells for the +seeds showed the exact form of a star. Fruit after fruit was cut, in the +hope that one would be found without the star; but the effort was a +complete failure. + +[Illustration: STAR-APPLE.] + +Of course they had oranges in abundance; and they had half a dozen +fruits whose names were quite unknown to them, but which were all +delicious. Fred lamented that the attempt to tell about the flavor of a +strange fruit was like trying to describe the song of a bird, or the +perfume of a flower. So they concluded that the best thing for them to +do was to eat the fruit and admire it; and if anybody wanted to know +what it was like, he would refer him to the article itself, and let him +judge of the quality. + +[Illustration: A NEW KIND OF FRUIT.] + +While seated on the deck of the boat, and engaged in testing the +peculiarities of an orange, Frank espied something on a tree that grew +close to the water. Thinking it might be a new kind of fruit, he called +the Doctor's attention to his discovery; the latter said the strange +thing was nothing more nor less than the nest of a bird, and would +hardly prove edible. Frank's illusion was broken, as the Doctor spoke, +by a small bird that hopped on a limb in front of the supposed fruit, +and at the same instant the head of another bird appeared from a hole in +the nest. Evidently the nest was constructed of cotton, or something of +the sort, as it was nearly snow-white in color; it hung from the limb, +so that it swayed in the wind, and it was not at all surprising that +Frank had mistaken it for a variety of fruit hitherto unknown to him. + +[Illustration: TAILOR-BIRD AND NEST.] + +"That nest is not so remarkable," said the Doctor, "as the one made by +the tailor-bird, an inhabitant of Siam and the tropical parts of India +and Malacca. It chooses a leaf on a small twig, and then proceeds to +puncture a row of holes along the edge with its beak, just as a +shoemaker uses an awl for making holes in a piece of leather. When it +has thus perforated the leaf, it takes a long fibre from a plant, and +passes it through the holes. The operation of sewing is imitated with +great exactness, and the fibre is pulled, like a thread, until the edges +of the leaf are drawn towards each other and form a hollow cone. If the +bird cannot find a single leaf large enough for its purpose, it sews +two leaves together; and instances have been known where three leaves +were used. When the framework of the nest is completed, the bird fills +the interior with the softest down it can gather from plants, and it +thus has a home which it is next to impossible to discover among the +leaves. There is another bird that lives near watercourses and marshes, +and constructs a nest by sewing the reeds and rushes together; but its +work is not so perfect as that of the tailor-bird, and does not entitle +him to equal credit." + +Frank was anxious to obtain one of these nests as a curiosity, and was +gratified, on his return to Bangkok, to find one for sale in the hands +of a native. He bought it, and had it carefully packed, so that he could +send it home without fear of injury in the next box of curiosities they +should despatch to America. + +From birds the conversation wandered to fishes, and the boys learned +something that caused their eyes to open with astonishment. Lest it +should be forgotten, it was entered in both their note-books, and read +as follows: + +"There is a fish in Siam, and other parts of the East, that has the +remarkable peculiarity of going overland from one pond to another. When +the water where they are dries up, the fishes start for the nearest +pond, though it may be several miles away; and they propel themselves by +means of their fins, very much as a turtle drags himself with his feet. +Their instinct is unerring, and they have never been known to make a +mistake about heading for the water that is nearest. It is said that you +may take one of them up and turn him around half a dozen times, till he +is dizzy, but he will not lose his points of compass. When he is put +down again he takes the proper direction, and though you put him off the +track ever so many times, he always returns to it." + +"We shall next hear, I suppose, that there are fishes that climb trees," +Fred remarked, as he finished his note on the fishes that go overland. + +"Quite possibly," Frank replied; "let us ask the Doctor." + +They asked the question, and were taken somewhat aback when Doctor +Bronson answered in the affirmative. + +[Illustration: A CLIMBING-FISH.] + +"I don't know," said he, "if there are any fish in Siam that climb +trees, but there is one in Brazil that can perform this feat. He does +not ascend a perpendicular tree, but when he finds one that slopes at an +angle of about forty-five degrees, and has its roots in the water, he +will venture on an excursion in the air. His scales are very large, and +he works himself forward by a motion of the lower ones as they press +against the bark of the tree. He hugs the tree with his fins in order to +maintain his balance; his movements in climbing are very slow, and he +certainly appears to better advantage in the water, where he is a rapid +and graceful swimmer. You see that a fish out of water is not always +the unhappy creature he has been supposed to be by most persons." + +"I heard somebody say one day," said Fred, "that oysters grow on trees +in some parts of the world. Is that really so?" + +"Certainly," was the Doctor's answer; "they do grow on trees, but not in +the way you are naturally led to suppose." + +"How is it, then, Doctor?" queried Frank. + +"It is quite simple when you understand it," was the response. "The +spawn of the oyster floats in the water, and attaches itself to the +first thing with which it comes in contact. It frequently happens that, +at high-tide, the water comes up a little way on the trunk of a tree, or +it may be that a limb of a tree hangs in the water. The oyster-spawn is +attached to the trunk or limb, as the case may be, and when the tide +goes away it remains there. It has enough vitality to live until the +tide comes again; it retains its hold, and in course of time becomes an +oyster growing on a tree. He could not live altogether without water, +but he can easily get along during the intervals of the tides. He does +not grow on a tree like an apple or an orange, but he certainly makes +the tree his home." + +"Do they have oysters in Siam?" one of the boys asked. + +"Oysters grow in the Gulf of Siam," was the reply; "but they are not +equal to those of the Atlantic coast of the United States. As for that +matter, no oysters in any part of the world can or do equal ours; at +least in the opinion of residents of the United States. Here in the East +Indies they have some very large oysters; there is one variety that +often attains a weight of three hundred pounds; it is not good for +anything, however, and you never hear a man in a restaurant calling for +a dozen of this variety on the half-shell. + +"Naturalists have described about sixty varieties of oysters in +different parts of the world, and it is said that more than two hundred +species of fossil oysters have been found by geologists. Most of these +forms are now extinct, and, therefore, we have no way of determining +whether all of them have been good to eat or otherwise. It is often +remarked that the first man who ate an oyster must have been very brave, +and it is a pity that his name has not come down to us. One version of +the story is that he thrust his fingers into an open shell which he saw +lying on the sea-shore; the oyster was angry at this intrusion, and +immediately closed on the fingers, very much to the man's astonishment. +It required a great deal of wrenching to liberate them from the shell, +and they were somewhat injured in the operation; the man naturally put +his fingers in his mouth to relieve the pain, and in so doing he learned +the taste of the oyster. Having learned it, he immediately smashed the +shell with a stone and devoured the contents, and he continued to eat +oysters till he had made a hearty meal. Always after that, when he was +hungry, he went to the oyster-bank and satisfied his appetite, and from +being thin as a skeleton he grew fat and rosy. His neighbors noted the +change, and one day when he was proceeding stealthily to his favorite +retreat they watched him and found his secret. When it was once out, the +news spread with great rapidity, and thus was inaugurated the habit of +eating the oyster. When this occurred no one knows; but the fact is that +the ancient Romans and Greeks were fond of the oyster, and esteemed it +greatly as an article of food. + +"Another remarkable fact is--" + +Before the Doctor could finish the sentence, Frank sprung to his feet in +an excited manner, and pointed to a tree that stood not twenty feet from +the bank of the river. + +"See that great snake!" he shouted; "and see that squirrel in front of +him!" + +[Illustration: THE SNAKE AND THE SQUIRREL.] + +A snake was coiled around the limb of the tree with his neck bent, and +his head slowly waving in the air. His body glistened in the sunlight as +it played on his scales, and Frank fancied he could see the fire darting +from his eyes. A foot or so in front of him was a squirrel, sitting on +his haunches, and with his tail erect; his eyes were fixed on the +serpent, and he was chattering wildly, and as if greatly alarmed. + +While they looked at the strange spectacle, the head of the snake was +darted forward, and in an instant the poor little squirrel was +transfixed by the deadly fangs. Frank wished they had been able to save +the squirrel by killing the snake, but his wishing was of no avail, as +they were moving down the stream; and, besides, they had no fire-arms +with which the serpent could have been disturbed in his retreat up the +tree. + +"I suppose the squirrel was charmed by the snake," said Fred, as soon as +they had passed out of sight of the tree. + +"As to that," replied Doctor Bronson, "there is much dispute. Many +persons who have studied the subject are positive that snakes have the +power of charming or fascinating small birds and animals; and others, +who have studied it quite as much, deny that any such power exists. I +have heard so much on both sides, that I am not able to form a positive +opinion. I am inclined, however, to believe that the power is possessed +by certain snakes, as I have seen manifestations of it, or something +very like it. When I was a boy in the country, I one day saw a large +black snake in an apple-tree on my uncle's farm. A bird was hopping +around on the limbs in great alarm, as I judged by his twitterings; he +seemed to be terribly afraid of the snake, and at the same time unable +to get away from him. I watched his movements for nearly half an hour, +and observed that each time the bird moved he came nearer to the snake; +and the performance ended by his lighting on a branch within a foot of +where the latter was coiled. Then the snake darted his head forward and +seized the bird, precisely as you saw that scaly fellow, a few moments +ago, seize the squirrel. + +"Exactly what the process of charming is, if it really exists, it is +difficult to say. Probably the victim is paralyzed, to some extent, by +the horrible appearance of the serpent, and deprived of the use of his +limbs. If you suddenly come in contact with a ferocious wild beast, or +some terrible danger is presented to you, it is not at all improbable +that you will be unable to move from sheer fright. I am inclined to +believe that the fascination of birds and small mammals by serpents is +something of this sort, but I confess my inability to explain why the +victim, in moving around, comes every moment nearer to his destroyer, as +though he could not remove his eyes, however much he might wish to do +so." + +"If you travel around much in Siam," the consul remarked, "you will find +all the snakes you care to see. It is not unusual to see them swimming +in the river; and in the rainy season they frequently get into the +houses, particularly those that float on the water. Most of them are +harmless, but there are some poisonous ones, including the famous _cobra +di capella_." + +Frank thought he would prefer not to live in a floating house, for the +present at least; and his opinion was shared by Fred. They were not at +all enamored of the idea of having an intimate association with the +wandering snakes of Siam. + +[Illustration: MONKEYS AT HOME.] + +"I think," said the Doctor, "that if you were compelled to select some +of the inhabitants of the Siamese forests as your companions, you would +prefer monkeys to snakes. In the region north of here you could find an +abundance of them, and of all sizes; they run wild in the forests, and +sometimes are found in large droves. They are sociable beings, and very +fond of each other's society; and if one of them gets into trouble, his +companions are quite likely to come to his relief. A friend of mine was +out hunting one day, and saw a monkey on a tree where a fair chance for +a shot was presented. He fired and wounded the monkey, who immediately +set up a piteous howl; in a few minutes dozens of monkeys were around +him, and they seemed to understand that my friend was the cause of the +trouble. He fled, and they pursued him; he fired his gun to frighten +them, and, after knocking several of them over, he reached an open space +of country, and was allowed to go on undisturbed. If he had been without +his gun he would not have escaped so easily. + +[Illustration] + +"Monkeys have a good many enemies besides man. Wild beasts devour them, +and occasionally snakes manage to take them in; the fellows are so +active that they can only be captured by strategy, or their own +carelessness and curiosity; and they often fall victims to the +last-named quality. A tiger will lie down and pretend to be dead; the +monkeys see him, and draw near to investigate. They approach cautiously, +stop frequently, and do a deal of chattering. If the tiger stirs a +muscle, they take the alarm at once and are off; but if he lies +perfectly still, they are sure, in a little while, to come so close that +one of the boldest will venture to pluck at his hide. As he does so he +jumps several feet to one side, and if the tiger should rouse himself he +would be baffled of his prey. He continues to lie as if dead; and +finally the monkeys, believing he is really nothing but a carcass, +proceed to sit on him and hold a coroner's inquest. Now is the tiger's +chance; and with a sudden spring he has one of the fattest in his jaws, +while the rest scamper away to the forest. + +[Illustration] + +"Another enemy of the monkey is the eagle. When the monkeys are playing +in the branches of a tree the eagle swoops down with great rapidity, and +carries one of the party off in his powerful claws. Often there is a +fearful struggle in the air, as the monkey is not inclined to die +without a protest; and as he has a great deal of strength, and is full +of activity, he occasionally comes off victorious and escapes, though he +may be killed by the fall from the height where the eagle drops him. A +gentleman of my acquaintance once witnessed the capture of a monkey by +an eagle; the eagle fastened his claws in the back of the monkey, and, +though the latter struggled violently, his hold was not once broken. The +eagle flew to the top of a distant tree, where he undoubtedly devoured +his victim at his leisure. + +[Illustration: EAGLE CAPTURING A MONKEY.] + +"In seizing a monkey, the eagle always endeavors to grasp him by the +back and neck, one claw being in the neck, and the other farther down. +The reason of this is that, unless the monkey is firmly held by the +neck, he will turn his head and inflict a terrible bite on his +assailant; but as long as the neck is thus held he is powerless. It is +said that the first thing the eagle does, after taking a monkey, is to +put out his eyes with his powerful beak; but in so doing he is in danger +of having his head seized by the monkey's paws." + +"On the whole," said Frank, "I don't think I care about forming an +intimate acquaintance with the monkey." + +Fred was of the same opinion, and the subject of conversation was +changed. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +THE KING IN HIS STATE BARGE.--BETEL AND TOBACCO. + + +On their arrival at Bangkok, our friends found that the king had +returned, and was to begin on the following day his annual visits to the +temples of the city. Once a year he goes in state to the temples, and +about two weeks are consumed in making the rounds of all of them. The +Siamese attach much importance to this ceremony, as their country is +considered the principal seat of the Buddhist religion, and the king is +its first defender. Therefore it is considered necessary that he should +worship officially at the shrines of the leading temples of the capital, +in addition to his daily worship in the temples attached to the grand +palace. + +The consul arranged to accompany Doctor Bronson and the youths to one of +the temples the king was to visit, so that they might see the +procession, and have a glimpse of the ruler of Siam. About ten o'clock +in the forenoon they left the hotel in their boat, and a half-hour's +pull up and across the river brought them to the spot. They spent a +little while in the inspection of the temple and its surroundings: they +had visited the same temple in the first days of their stay in Bangkok, +and therefore many things were familiar to their eyes. But where it had +been quiet before all was now activity, and there was a considerable +assemblage of people, who had come, like themselves, to witness the +ceremony. + +After a time there was a stir, and the announcement was made that the +king was coming. The boys looked up the river in the direction of the +palace, and, sure enough, there was the royal procession; and it was a +sight that almost took away the breath of both Frank and Fred. + +[Illustration: STATE BARGE OF THE KING OF SIAM.] + +There was a flotilla of a dozen or more boats and barges of the most +gorgeous description our friends had ever seen. The largest of them was +occupied by the king, and had a hundred and twenty men to row, or rather +to paddle it. The boat was said to be fifty yards in length, but nobody +was able to say positively what were its exact dimensions; at any rate, +it was long enough and handsome enough to satisfy the most fastidious +spectator. The rowers were in a double line, and in scarlet uniforms; +at each stroke they raised their paddles high in air, and their +movements were so timed that the paddles on both sides were dipped at +exactly the same moment. The boat sat quite low in the water, and its +stern had a sharp and high curve to it that doubtless made the middle of +the craft appear lower than it really was. The bow was bent upwards as +high as the stern, and Frank thought it could not be less than ten or +twelve feet out of the water. It appeared to be much heavier than the +stern, and was fantastically carved; the Doctor told the boys that the +carving was intended to represent the _Nagha Mustakha Sapta_, or +seven-headed serpent, which is one of the mythological deities of Siam. + +Considerably nearer to the stern than the bow there was a sort of throne +elevated on four pillars, and having a gorgeous canopy above it. On this +throne the king was seated; the canopy had a spire like that of some of +the temples, and consequently the seat in the barge possessed a certain +religious character. Near him were attendants holding canopies not +altogether unlike umbrellas, and at a distance these canopies suggested +the appearance of golden cones. The boat was driven rapidly through the +water by the powerful arms of its rowers, and their movements were timed +by a man waving a huge baton, after the manner of the drum-major of a +brass band. The other boats moved at the same speed; they were smaller +than that of the king, some of them having no more than thirty or forty +rowers; and they belonged to the Siamese nobles and ministers of state, +who were required to accompany the king on his official visits to the +temples. + +The gilding and bright colors on the boats were fairly dazzling to the +eyes of the young travellers. In all their travels hitherto, they had +seen nothing half as gorgeous as this spectacle, and Frank was inclined +to pinch himself to make sure he was not dreaming. He was destined to be +still more astonished when told that the king's boat was inlaid with +mother-of-pearl and crystal, and with sparkling shells and bright +stones, so that it resembled a piece of jewellery for the use of a giant +such as the world never saw. He wondered what must have been the cost of +such a boat, but there was no one who could tell him. + +[Illustration: A BODY OF THE ROYAL GUARDS.] + +Soon the boat was at the little platform which served as a landing-place +in front of the temple. A file of soldiers, uniformed somewhat after the +European manner, and carrying rifles of foreign manufacture, was drawn +up near the path where his majesty would pass on his way to the temple +door; they were commanded by an officer whose complexion was of the +Siamese tint, and who spoke English so fluently that the boys thought he +must have had a most excellent teacher, and been a very apt pupil. They +were undeceived when they learned that he was a native of Philadelphia, +and formerly served in the army of the United States. Doctor Bronson +observed that the soldiers were well drilled, as they went through the +manual of arms with the precision of a regiment of English or American +infantry. + +The Siamese army is drilled after the European manner, and has had +drill-masters from the United States and half the countries of Europe in +the last thirty years. The navy is also under foreign management, and +the harbor-master of the port of Bangkok is an Englishman, who has lived +there a long time. Several foreigners are in the custom-house and other +official service, and the steamers of the navy have European engineers. +The foreigners in the Siamese service are well paid, and generally get +along easily with the natives. Some of them are greatly trusted by the +king, and have shown themselves fully worthy of the royal confidence. + +In time of war the entire male population of the country capable of +bearing arms is liable to be called out, and every man is bound to serve +as a defender of his nation. Whenever soldiers are wanted, the king +sends a command to the governors of the various provinces, and tells +them what their quota will be, and they are expected to comply +immediately with the demand. The troops thus levied are fed and clothed +and armed at the expense of the government, but they do not receive any +pay in money; and when the emergency for which they were wanted is +passed they are dismissed and sent home. The standing army in time of +peace is quite small, and the soldiers are fed and clothed, and their +pay in money is about six dollars a month. The Siamese navy contained, +at the time our friends were at Bangkok, about a dozen steam gun-boats, +carrying from two to ten guns each, and several new vessels were on the +stocks in the royal dock-yards. A large naval force is not needed in +Siam, and the king wisely refrains from expending a great deal of money +on useless ships of war. + +[Illustration: THE KING VISITING A TEMPLE.] + +The king stepped ashore on the little platform previously mentioned, and +mounted a sedan-chair, on which he was to be carried to the temple. His +head was protected from the sun by a canopy like a large umbrella; and +both the seat and canopy were gayly decorated, and shone with gilding. +As the bearers proceeded with their royal burden, the people knelt in +homage to their ruler, and the strictest silence was observed. One after +another the nobles and high officials landed from their boats, and +proceeded to the temple, surrounded or followed by their attendants. It +was a novel spectacle to the boys, this procession of dignitaries, and +they watched it with great interest. Each of the officials had a man to +carry his pipe and tobacco, another for his betel-box, another for his +tray, holding a teacup and a pot of tea; and some of them had two or +three others for the transportation of various things. The betel-boxes +were of gold, and most exquisitely wrought, and they must have cost a +great deal of money to make. The prime-minister was the last to arrive, +and the boys were told that the ceremony would not begin till he had +entered the temple. + +[Illustration: THE FRONT OF THE TEMPLE.] + +The strangers were not invited to see the services inside the building, +and therefore they remained where they were till the king came out and +returned to his boat. The ceremony lasted about half an hour, and +consisted of the repetition of prayers by the priests, and responses by +the king; it was said to be not unlike the celebration of mass in a +Catholic church, and it has been remarked by many visitors to the Far +East that the forms of Buddhist worship have a considerable resemblance +to those of Rome. + +The king went to his boat, which was drawn up to the platform as before; +and as soon as he was seated, the signal was given to the rowers to move +on. Away they paddled to another temple, situated up one of the canals; +and the other boats followed the royal one as rapidly as possible. By +taking a path through some gardens near the temple, our friends reached +a point on the bank of the canal where they could see all the boats as +they went along. + +After the procession had gone the boys wanted to ramble through the tall +grass, but changed their minds when told that possibly they might +encounter a cobra or some other deadly snake. Cobras are not +unfrequently found around the Siamese temples; and though accidents are +not of common occurrence, there are enough of them to make a stranger +careful about his promenades. + +It was past noon, and the heat of the sun was not of the lightest. The +Doctor suggested a return to the hotel, and the boys were quite willing +to accept it, as they wanted to think over the strange spectacle they +had witnessed. They thought they had done quite enough for one day, and +considered that they had been very fortunate in seeing the king, and +witnessing one of the pageants for which Siam is celebrated. + +On their way back in the boat, Frank asked the Doctor to tell him +something about the use of the betel-nut. They had observed that the +king was vigorously chewing the substance, which is to the Siamese what +tobacco is to many Americans, and the ministers of state were following +his example. All classes of people indulged in the amusement, and their +mouths had a reddish appearance in consequence. + +"The leaf of the betel-pepper," said the Doctor, "and the nut of the +areca-palm are prepared as follows: the nut is sliced quite thin, and a +little quicklime is sprinkled on it, so as to give it a pungent flavor, +and the two substances are then wrapped in the leaf. In this form it is +taken into the mouth and chewed, and the operation is generally +performed with a very vigorous action of the jaws. The saliva has a +reddish tint, and it is so bright that many strangers are deluded into +the belief that the natives are spitting blood. The practice of chewing +this substance began originally in the Malay peninsula, but it has +gradually spread all over India, the countries of Indo-China, and the +Malay Archipelago. Would you like to try it?" + +The boys had the curiosity to make an experiment with the betel-nut; +and, as soon as they reached the hotel, the Doctor made their wants +known to the landlord. In a little while some of the substance was +brought, and the youths ventured to chew it. + +A very short trial was quite sufficient. They found the taste anything +but agreeable; and Frank thought the same sensation could be had by +dissolving in the mouth a piece of alum as large as a small pea, or a +more extensive piece of lime. The delusion might be kept up by adding +any common leaf and a few grains of pepper, and Fred was confident that +it would require a long time for him to be accustomed to it. "Of +course," said he, "one might learn in time to like betel, just as men in +America learn to like tobacco; but, as far as I can judge, the taste of +tobacco is the less disagreeable of the two." + +The astringency of the betel-nut was removed from the tongues of the +experimenters by a free use of the milk of green cocoa-nuts; and each of +the boys made a quiet promise to himself that he would not learn to chew +betel for anything in the world. + +"And we may as well include tobacco," said Frank, "and leave it to rest +at the side of betel. I certainly don't like the process of chewing +betel, and it is no worse than that of chewing the favorite weed of +America." + +Fred agreed with his cousin, and the two concluded that they would not +adopt the habit of many of their countrymen. Just then it occurred to +them that they had not seen any other people than their own using +tobacco in this form, and so they asked the Doctor if the habit was +exclusively an American one. + +[Illustration: THE TOBACCO-PLANT.] + +"Practically so," was the Doctor's answer. "In no other country than +ours is the habit of chewing tobacco at all prevalent; a few sailors and +others who have lived or been in the United States have adopted and +carried it home, and these are virtually the only people not Americans +who indulge in it. Other nations are far greater smokers than ourselves, +but we have very nearly a monopoly of chewing the leaf of the famous +plant of Virginia." + +[Illustration: SIR WALTER RALEIGH AND HIS PIPE.] + +One of the boys asked if tobacco was not first found in America; he +thought he had read that it was used by the Indians at the time of the +discovery of the Western Continent by Columbus, and was introduced to +Europe by Sir Walter Raleigh. + +"I am unable to answer your question with exactness," said the Doctor, +"for the simple reason that the matter is involved in obscurity. It is +said by some historians that the sailors accompanying Columbus were one +day greatly astonished at seeing smoke issuing from the mouths and +nostrils of some of the natives, and they found, on investigation, that +it was produced by the combustion of a fragrant herb or plant. On their +return they introduced it into Spain and Portugal. In 1560 Jean Nicot +was ambassador of France at the Court of Lisbon, and learned the use of +tobacco from a merchant who had been in America. When he next went to +France, he presented the weed to the queen, and it soon became known +throughout Europe. From him it was called _L'herbe Nicotienne_, or "the +Nicotian weed," and the name has come down to our times. Near the same +period Sir Francis Drake introduced it into England, and Sir Walter +Raleigh made it fashionable; so rapidly did the use of it spread that in +less than twenty years nearly every class of society was addicted to it. + +"Some writers contend that tobacco, or some similar plant, was smoked in +Asia long before the discovery of America; in proof of this they assert +that the pipe in nearly its present form is to be seen on many ancient +sculptures; and it is certainly singular that a people so conservative +as the Chinese and other Asiatics should have made the use of tobacco +universal in the comparatively short period that has elapsed since its +discovery in America. On the other hand, we can infer that it was not +known in Asia as early as the eighth century, because the tales of the +Arabian Nights, which are supposed to be a perfect picture of the +customs of that time, make no mention of smoking." + +"Does Marco Polo make any mention of it in his travels in Asia?" Fred +asked. "If it had been known in his time, I think he would have been +pretty certain to say something about it." + +"I believe he makes no allusion to it," the Doctor responded; "and this +fact is quoted by those who contend that the practice was of American +origin. But, whatever the origin of smoking tobacco, the custom has +spread over the whole globe, and prevails among savages no less than +among the most civilized and enlightened nations. All classes of people, +from highest to lowest, are smokers; and, though the practice has been +the subject of severe penalties, it has continued to spread. Laws were +passed against it by several governments. In Russia, smokers were +punished by having a pipe-stem passed through the cartilage of the nose +for their first offence; and for a second, they were ordered to be +flogged to death. Sultan Amurath IV. ordered that all smokers should be +strangled; and in Switzerland it was officially announced that the use +of tobacco was one of the sins forbidden by the Ten Commandments. The +Popes of Rome issued edicts against it; and one of them, Urban VII., +decreed the excommunication of all who should use tobacco. King James +wrote the famous 'Counterblast against Tobacco,' and other publications +were made condemning the importation of Sir Walter Raleigh; but all to +no purpose. The practice could not be put down; and to-day there is no +article of luxury or dissipation that is so universally known as +tobacco. + +"There are about forty different varieties of tobacco described by +botanists which are smoked, or chewed, or snuffed, in various parts of +the world. By far the greater part of the tobacco used annually is +smoked, and in some countries snuff-taking, like chewing the weed, is +practically unknown. In nine cases out of ten in America the use of +tobacco begins by smoking, and in other countries the proportion is +probably a hundred times as great. The tobacco used in Asia and in some +parts of Europe is much milder than that of America. England is the +largest consumer of strong tobacco outside of the United States, and the +revenue derived from it by the British custom-house goes far towards +paying the expenses of the government. + +[Illustration: PIPES OF ALL NATIONS.] + +"Tobacco was first smoked in pipes, and all the early representations of +smokers contain no picture of the cigar. Sir Walter Raleigh used a pipe +which was much like the one most popular in England at the present day, +and it was not till long after his time that the leaf, rolled into a +cigar, became fashionable. Different nations have adopted different +forms for the pipe; and it is noticeable that the more indolent the +people the longer is its pipe-stem. With the English and American pipe +the smoker can enjoy himself while employed, but with the Eastern pipe +he can do nothing else while smoking. With a cigar, or a short pipe, a +man may write or work; but when he takes the hookah of Turkey, or the +nargileh of Syria and Egypt, his occupation, other than smoking, must be +limited to conversation and reading. Each country has adopted the form +best suited to its tastes; and it would be the height of absurdity to +give the ragged newsboys of New York an Oriental pipe-stem two yards in +length, and expect them to enjoy it as they do the short stumps of +cigars they gather in the street. On the other hand, the Turkish lady +reclining on her divan would consider the short dhudeen of the Irish +apple-woman a wretched substitute for the hookah, with its flexible stem +and its bowl of water through which the smoke bubbles on its way to her +mouth. + +[Illustration: YOUNG AMERICA.] + +"Whether tobacco is injurious or otherwise has been a subject of much +discussion, and the advocates on each side have said a great deal that +their opponents will not admit. It would require more time than I have +at my command to tell you even a tenth part of the arguments for and +against tobacco, and therefore I will not enter upon the discussion of +the subject. Volumes have been written upon it, and doubtless other +volumes will find their way into print as the years roll on." + +[Illustration: THE EAST.] + +[Illustration: THE WEST.] + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +WOMEN, HAIR-CUTTING, AND SLAVERY. + + +The boys occupied themselves very industriously in writing for their +friends at home the accounts of what they had seen and heard in Siam. +They told of the trip to Ayuthia, and the visit to the elephant corral; +of their stay at Bang-pa-in; of the journey down the river; and, +finally, of the flotilla of boats and barges, and the state procession +of the king to the temples. When they had brought the story down to the +hour of writing, there was a day to spare before the closing of the +weekly mail to Singapore, and thence to America. + +Frank thought it was time for him to say something specially intended +for Mary and Effie; he remembered his letter from Japan about the women +of that country, and concluded that a similar missive from Siam would be +quite in order. Then he recollected that he had seen fewer women in his +walks and rides about Bangkok than when he strolled through the streets +of Tokio and Kioto, and that in all probability he could not tell as +much of the Siamese as of the Japanese women, for the simple reason that +he had not learned so much about them. But he was determined to make the +effort, and, after talking with the Doctor on the subject, he wrote as +follows: + +[Illustration: SIAMESE GENTLEMAN AND LADY.] + +"The dress of the Siamese men is so much like that of the women that a +stranger cannot tell at first whether he is looking at the one or the +other. I will send you a picture, so that you may understand how they +look much easier than if I took half a dozen pages in writing to tell +it. You see that a gentleman and lady have the same garments, except +that the lady wears a scarf over her shoulders, or rather over her left +shoulder, and passing under her right arm. The gentleman has a tiny bit +of a linen collar on his jacket, while the lady has none, and he also +has wristbands, something after the European model. The trousers are +like a piece of cloth four or five feet square, and one corner is tucked +under a belt in the centre of the waist; the ladies generally wear +brighter colors than their husbands, but the cut of the garment is +practically the same. + +"Nearly everybody goes barefoot; and when they do put anything on their +feet, it is rarely more than a light sandal. The custom of wearing shoes +and boots such as we have is never likely to become popular in a country +so hot as this is, and where there is no snow or ice. Children, up to +five or six years of age, have no garments of any consequence; and even +when they are older, their clothing would not shield them from the cold +if they were compelled to face a New York winter. A tailor would not +make a fortune by coming to Siam and trying to get the people to wear +clothes like American ones; and as for a corn doctor, he would have no +chance at all where tight boots, or boots of any kind, are practically +unknown. + +"Then, too, they dress their hair in pretty much the same way, so that +you cannot tell a man from a woman by looking at their heads, as you can +in most other countries of the world. They shave all the lower part of +the head, and leave the crown covered with a tuft, or bunch, that +reminds you of a shoe-brush. The men have very light beards, like all +Oriental people; and whenever one of them finds that he can raise a +mustache or a beard, he is pretty sure to do so, as he wants to look +unlike his neighbors. But as a general thing beards do not become the +Oriental features, though mustaches do; and when I see a Chinese or a +Japanese or a Siamese with a beard, which is not often, I feel like +asking him to go home and shave it off. + +[Illustration: A YOUNG PRINCE OF THE ROYAL HOUSE, WITH HIS ATTENDANT.] + +"The first hair-cutting, at the time a child is twelve or fourteen years +old, is a very important ceremony. No matter how poor the parents of a +child may be, they manage to have some kind of an entertainment, be it +ever so humble, while with the rich a great deal of money is spent on +the affair. In the case of a royal child the festivities are on a grand +scale, and the whole population is expected to rejoice. We heard +something about the ceremony when we were in Cochin-China, and we have +heard a great deal more about it since we came here. We wish one was to +come off now, but unfortunately there is nothing of the kind in +prospect. + +"A few months ago the eldest of the king's children reached the proper +age for the So-Kan, as the hair-cutting ceremony is called, and for +weeks before the event the preparations for it were going on. I cannot +do better than copy the account that was published at the time in the +Siam _Daily Advertiser_, a newspaper that is printed here by some +Americans who have lived a long time in Bangkok. Here it is: + +"'Princess Sri Wililaxan is the eldest daughter of his majesty the King +of Siam; her mother is one of the daughters of his excellency Chow +P'raya Kralahome, the Prime-minister of Siam. This princess is +consequently the great-granddaughter of his grace the ex-regent, and the +granddaughter of the prime-minister. + +"'It is said that his majesty has fifteen children. Four of these are +Somdetch Chowfas. Only one of these Somdetch Chowfas is a son. + +"'The Somdetch Chowfas are the children of the king, and their mothers +are princesses. The son, consequently, who is the eldest Chow-fa of the +present king is by law and the customs of the country the heir-apparent +to the throne. + +"'When the So-Kan ceremonies take place they must be of the most +imposing kind. In the present instance they were continued six days, and +on each day there was an imposing procession. + +"'The sound of music announced the approach of the procession. + +[Illustration: FEMALE HEAD-DRESS AND COSTUME.] + +"'Soon a company of seemingly masked men, representing Japanese +warriors, made their appearance. Then came companies of Siamese military +and their band. Then followed companies of Siamese women dressed after +the manner of the country, with the right arm and the shoulder bare; and +then companies of men and boys and women dressed to represent the +contiguous nationalities--Malays, Peguans, Burmans, Laos, Karens, etc. +The groups as they passed were quite grotesque. + +"'His majesty the king ascended to a prominent hall near the Maha +Prasaht,[2] which was handsomely furnished. In front of him, to his +right, were a group of pretty and richly-dressed ladies, holding in +their hands a small silver tree. They went through the slow motions of a +Siamese dance. Groups of Siamese ladies were seated in a line, with the +new palace forming one side of a parallelogram. These were spectators, +and evidently persons of rank. On the left of his majesty, forming the +second long side of the parallelogram, were crowds of Europeans and +other foreigners who had been invited to the performance. + +[2] An immense temple or chapel in the palace enclosure, where the kings +are crowned, and where they lie in state for twelve months after their +deaths, awaiting the ceremony of cremation. + +"'The side wall enclosing the Maha Prasaht, on an elevated part of which +was the hall in which his majesty sat, formed the west side of the +parallelogram. Directly in front of the king was the artificial +Trailaht, seemingly a mountain of gold, and forming the east side of the +parallelogram. + +[Illustration: MINISTER OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS.] + +"'At the summit of the Trailaht was a beautiful gilt edifice dazzling in +the sunshine. As soon as his majesty was seated, a group of +gayly-dressed lakon girls descended from the gold mountain from the gilt +house, and at the base of the mountain, in full view of the king, +performed their dance to the sound of native music, of which there was +an abundance. On the lawn to the left of his majesty, and in a temporary +and beautiful hall, sat his grace the venerable Ex-Regent; his +excellency the Prime-minister; his excellency the Foreign Minister, and +the principal nobles of the country. + +"'On the lawn were men who danced and made amusement for the masses. + +"'When the Princess Sri Wililaxan advanced, seated in a grand sedan, +heavily weighted with her crown and gold chains of jewellery, followed +by a group of ladies bearing her gold salvers and insignia of rank, she +was received by her royal father and placed at his side. + +"'The mountain Trailaht cannot be easily described. Here and there at +its base there were representations of the popular plays and acts of the +country. The images were moved by machinery, and went through their +performances to the merriment of the crowds, who clamored for a +repetition of them. + +"'One represented a court of justice, where two persons were ordered to +dive; the one who could remain longest under water rendered his +testimony valid. It was amusing to see the artifice of the one who came +up first and found his antagonist still under water. + +"'There were artificial pools containing representations of fish, whose +movements amused the spectators. + +"'There were artificial trees, with representations of animals--such as +squirrels, monkeys, birds, and snakes--and their movements were quite +life-like. + +"'Each day the princess receives presents from the noble families. The +ceremonies of each day were in some respects similar, but varied enough +to interest the vast crowds that visit the palace. Abundant refreshments +were provided by the government for the active participants and the +leading spectators. The noble families from all parts of Siam were +represented in the assemblage, and the display was the finest that the +country has known for years.' + +"This is what I find in the newspaper, and it seems to be a very good +account. There are some things that it will be necessary for me to +explain, so that you will get a good understanding of them. In the first +place, I am told that the royal top-knot is taken off in a temple close +to the artificial mountain on the first day of the ceremony. Doubtless +they would cut it every day; but even in so fertile a country as Siam +the hair does not grow fast enough to make a daily cutting feasible. + +"After this ceremony the hair is allowed to grow in the shoe-brush style +that I have described. Before that time it is in the shape of a twisted +knot, about as large as a silver dollar, but when it takes its new form +it covers the greater part of the top of the head. + +"The Trailaht, or golden mountain, where the ceremony takes place, is +not really constructed of gold, though it appears to be. It is made of +wood and iron for a framework, and is then covered with sheets of lead +that have been gilded. The machinery that moves the figures is concealed +in the interior of the mountain, and the pathway that runs up the +outside is made to look as much like nature as possible. There are +valleys, and forests, and grottoes, and miniature rocks on the mountain, +and the path is usually arranged so that it goes three times around +between the bottom and the top. The Siamese pay great attention to the +numbers '3' and '9;' they have pagodas and canopies of three stories, +and others of nine; and in nearly all their religious ceremonies their +movements are in threes and nines. The same is true of all countries +where Buddhism is the religion; and, if you go as far off as Peking, you +will find that the temples have triple terraces and triple roofs, while +threes, or the multiples of three, may be found in the arrangement of +the stones of the steps and pavements, and in the walls of the +buildings. + +[Illustration: LAKON GIRLS.] + +"Perhaps you did not understand what was meant by the lakon girls that +danced before the king as soon as he was seated. In this country there +are girls who are trained to dance, like _geishas_ in Japan, and just +as the girls of the ballet are trained in a theatre in Europe and +America. Dancing is their profession, and they combine singing and +acting with it; and some of the princes and great men have troops of +these lakon girls to dance and sing for them. It is very common for them +to invite their friends to an entertainment, and it generally consists +of singing and dancing by these young ladies. Those around the palace +are the prettiest that can be found in the kingdom, and they have +wardrobes that cost a great deal of money, and are as grand as the +wardrobes of any actress in America. Very often in their acting they +wear the most hideous masks that can be imagined, and when they are +dressed up to resemble men or demons you can hardly believe that they +are really pretty girls. I send you a picture of two of them, so that +you may know what they look like. + +[Illustration: A NATIVE BAND OF MUSIC.] + +"The native band of music is a curiosity, as it is quite unlike anything +you ever saw. The king has a band after the European style, with a +French leader, and with instruments imported from London or Paris. It +plays very well, and can render some of the popular pieces that we are +familiar with just as well as any ordinary band in New York or London. +When we were passing the palace the other day we heard them playing a +selection from Faust, and another from the 'Grande Duchesse;' and one +evening we heard the Siamese national hymn, which is a very pretty +composition, and worthy of a place among the national airs of Europe. +But the native music is quite another thing. + +"The performers sit down to their work instead of standing up, and they +do not sit on chairs, but on the floor. The only band of the kind I have +yet seen consisted of five performers, all women--one of them having a +sort of guitar, another a violin, another a drum played with the fingers +of one hand, another with a row of bamboo sticks that were struck with a +small hammer, and the last of the five had a row of metal cups that were +played like the bamboo sticks. There is a good deal of variety to the +music in some ways, and very little in others; it seemed to be capable +of considerable modulation in time and tune; and while at times it was +loud and harsh, at others it became low and plaintive. Whether they have +any regular tunes or not I am unable to say; they seemed to start off on +a measure, and then repeat it over and over again for twenty or thirty +minutes. Perhaps they would keep it up for a week or two if the weather +was not too warm for continuing one's exertions for that length of time. +They didn't seem to keep very closely together, and probably there was +no occasion for them to do so, as the tune is of such a nature that each +player can do pretty much what he likes. + +[Illustration: A SIAMESE THEATRICAL PERFORMANCE.] + +"These lakon girls are the performers in the theatres of Bangkok, or +rather at the private theatricals that are given at the houses of the +nobles and high officials. These affairs are generally given in a garden +or court-yard, where carpets are spread under the trees that grow there. +The dialogue is accompanied by music of the kind I have described, and +sometimes they have drums like small barrels suspended on triangles or +propped up on little frames. The performances are usually historical, +but not always so, as the Siamese drama abounds in love-plays, which are +taken from their literature. In the historic plays the costumes are +frequently very hideous, though richly gilded and decorated; they have +very little scenery or stage settings, and I think that a first-class +theatre of New York or Paris would astonish them greatly. When not +occupied on the stage, the performers stand or sit around the wings, and +the audience is supposed not to see them. + +"The voices of the singers are very sweet; and Doctor Bronson says that +some of them only need careful training to make excellent performers. +They are said to be much more musical than the Chinese or the Japanese, +and much quicker to catch foreign music when it is taught to them. + +"If you expect that women occupy in Siam the same position that they do +in America, you will be disappointed. Their condition has been greatly +improved by the king since he ascended the throne, and he is evidently +determined to overcome the prejudices of his people as rapidly as he can +do so. He is the first ruler of Siam who has ever given his arm to +escort a lady to the dinner-table after the European manner, and the +first lady to receive this honor was the wife of an American admiral. + +"The country has never been ruled by a woman, and women have never held +a high place in the royal councils. Polygamy is customary in Siam; and +the king has a harem, just as the Sultan of Turkey has one. He has one +chief wife, or queen-consort, and is said to have about two hundred +other wives; but nobody knows exactly how many there are--at least +nobody outside the palace. Like all other monarchs with a harem, he has +his favorites; and when one of his wives manages to attract his +attention and secure his preference, she is very speedily the envy of +the others. Probably human nature is the same the world over, and the +history of royal and imperial harems everywhere is not greatly varied. + +"Among the common people a man may have several wives if he chooses, and +can afford the expense, but ordinarily he has only one. Where he has +more than one, the first wife is the head of the household, and her +authority is generally undisputed, though they sometimes have domestic +quarrels, like people in other countries. Marriages are commonly +arranged between youths of eighteen and girls of fourteen, and not +infrequently at earlier ages. The ceremony consists of a feast such as +the parties can afford; and though priests are not considered necessary, +they are generally present to offer prayers. Among the poorer classes +there is more approach to equality between husband and wife than with +the rich; fashionable society does not permit the wife to eat with the +husband, and she is regarded more as a servant than a companion; but the +Siamese husbands are said to be much more kind to their wives than the +Chinese, and to treat them with more respect. + +"A great many wives, both among the nobles and the common people, are +bought as slaves, and I am told that probably a quarter of the +population is held in slavery. Men sell their wives, children, sisters, +brothers, and even themselves; and in times past great numbers of slaves +were held that had been captured in wars with neighboring countries. +Slaves are not dear in Siam, compared with the prices that were paid in +America before the emancipation of the negroes; a child may be bought +for a small sum; and when a man wants to purchase a wife, he expects to +get her for not more than eighty or a hundred dollars. Much of the +slavery in Siam is the result of gambling; and it is not unusual for a +man to gamble away his family, his clothes, and then himself, in a +single day or evening. + +"While we are considering this subject of slavery, I will make an +extract or two from the laws of Siam concerning the treatment of persons +in bondage: + +"'If the inhabitants in embarrassed circumstances sell temporarily their +children, wives, grandchildren, brothers, sisters, relatives, and +slaves, males or females, to serve the purchaser, and the slaves be +overtaken with a calamity, let the money-master inform the seller that +he may come and take care of him at the money-master's house. If the +money-master take no care of him, and the slave dies, said money-master +cannot claim any refund from the seller, because he abandoned the sick +slave. His death must be the loss of the money-master, because he +neglected a subject of the State. + +"'If persons pecuniarily or otherwise embarrassed sell temporarily their +children, nephews, nieces, or grandchildren to a purchaser, to be used +by him in lieu of interest, and the purchaser or master has business or +trouble, and takes his slave to accompany him, and thieves or murderers +cut, stab, and kill, or tigers, crocodiles, or other animals kill and +devour the slave, the law declares, being the slave of the purchaser who +took him with him, the purchaser is entitled to no refund from the +seller, because the slave accompanied his master.' + +"I have copied this from an English translation of the Siamese laws, and +suppose it is correct. I am told that the slavery of Siam is not like +what we had in the United States, as the slaves are of the same class +and color as their owners, and there is not much difference between a +poor free man and a slave. Both of them must work for their living; and +I am told it sometimes happens that a man will deliberately sell +himself, so as to have a master who will give him steady employment and +feed him properly. The king has done a good deal towards improving the +condition of slaves, and on every festival occasion those who have been +a certain number of years in bondage are declared free. It is a common +thing for men to pledge themselves and their families or relatives as +security for money loaned or to pay interest, and when the debt is +discharged they are free. The two sentences I have quoted from the +Siamese laws relate to this kind of temporary slavery. It very often +happens, when a man has thus pledged himself and family for a short +time, and is confident that he will soon be free, his hopes are not +realized, and he remains a slave for years and years--perhaps for his +whole life. His relatives remain in bondage with him, and their +happiness or misery depends very much upon whether they have a kind +master or a cruel one. + +"For persons who are not held as slaves, divorce is very easy in Siam. +The laws are not very strict; and if they simply desert each other, +there is generally an end of their marriage. I have been told of a funny +sort of divorce among the lower classes, but cannot say if it be true. +When a couple have determined to separate, they sit down on the floor in +the middle of their house, and each lights a candle. They sit there in +silence while the candles burn slowly down, and the property that they +owned in common will all belong to the one whose candle lasts the +longest. The one whose light goes out first is only entitled to the +clothes he or she may have on at the time--which is not much anyway. + +"What a lot of patent candles we should have if the same custom +prevailed in America! Ingenious men would puzzle their brains to invent +candles that would burn longer than any others; and we might expect to +see any morning the advertisement of 'The Patent Inexhaustible Candle +that will neither burn nor be blown out!' And somebody would devise a +system of making a secret connection between the candle and a gas-pipe, +so that the supply of combustible material would never be exhausted. The +lawyers would not like this mode of settling matrimonial difficulties, +and there is no probability that such a law will ever be made. + +"To go into mourning, the people shave their heads; and when the king +dies, the top-knots are removed from the heads of all his male subjects +from one end of Siam to the other. The only exception to the rule is in +the case of princes who are older than the king; and sometimes this +exception gives rise to lively disputes concerning the princely age." + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +CREMATION IN SIAM.--TRADE, TAXES, AND BIRDS. + + +[Illustration: SCENE ON A SMALL CANAL NEAR BANGKOK.] + +One morning, while they were taking a row on the river for the purpose +of visiting one of the canals, our friends observed a dense smoke rising +from the vicinity of one of the temples. Fred was the first to see it, +and wondered what it was for. As they neared the temple, they saw that +the smoke proceeded from a burning pile, where several persons were +standing around. + +"It is a cremation," said Doctor Bronson; "we will stop and see it." + +He directed the boatmen to land in front of the temple, and the three +strangers walked to the spot where the fire was burning. + +On a low mound of earth there was a fire of logs and smaller sticks of +wood, and in the midst of the fire lay a body half consumed. It was +evidently that of a small person, as the fire was not more than five +feet long, and the body was completely wrapped in the flames. A dozen or +more Buddhist priests were standing near the fire, and about as many +other persons who did not appear to belong to the holy order. No +ceremony was observed; and the Doctor remarked that they had probably +arrived too late to witness the funeral-service. Not far off were the +ashes that remained from similar cremations; and on one heap the fire +was still smouldering. + +They returned to the boat, and continued their journey; and as they did +so the Doctor explained to the boys the peculiarities of the spectacle +they had just witnessed. + +"Cremation, or the destruction of a human body by fire," said he, "is +customary in several countries of the Eastern World, and there has +recently been an effort to make it popular in Europe and America. It +prevails in Siam, but not altogether to the exclusion of the ordinary +mode of burial in the earth. Cremation is considered the most honorable +funeral, and it has a religious significance; it is a ceremony necessary +to assist the soul in its passage to a higher state of transmigration, +and to its final condition of perfect rest. Criminals who are executed +by law are not allowed to be burnt; and the same is the case with those +dying of small-pox and certain other diseases. + +[Illustration: BURIAL-MOUNDS.] + +"The ceremony of cremation is considered so important that, where it +cannot be performed immediately after the death of the individual--from +poverty or for other reasons--the body is first buried, and subsequently +exhumed and burnt. When the person has any prominence or wealth, a few +of the bones are preserved in the houses of the relatives, or they may +be buried in the grounds near the temples. You saw some little +monuments, like miniature pyramids, near the temple we just visited; did +you not?" + +"Yes," said Fred, "we saw them, and wondered what they were." + +[Illustration: URN CONTAINING ASHES.] + +"Those were monuments where the ashes of the dead are preserved," was +the reply. "You will find them near many of the temples." + +Soon they came in sight of another temple, where a ceremony of some sort +was just beginning. The Doctor told the boatmen to land there; and as +soon as they were on shore they found that they had come upon another +funeral-party, and evidently that of a person of distinction. + +[Illustration: JESSAMINE FLOWERS.] + +The body was in a coffin, which rested on a bier; and the coffin and +bier together were not less than six feet high. The bier was covered +with white cloth--white is the symbol of mourning in Siam--and the +coffin itself was of a red color, and with a great deal of gold tinsel +laid over it. Above the coffin was a canopy of white cloth, and it was +thickly ornamented with bunches of jessamine flowers, freshly gathered. + +Just as our friends approached the spot, a band, consisting of a gong, +two drums, and a sort of flageolet, played a very discordant air as a +prelude to the ceremony. Then a young priest read a service of prayers +from slips of palm-leaf, and, while reading, he occupied a pulpit under +a small shed in the court yard of the temple. In front of the pulpit +there was a platform occupied by several persons--the majority of them +women. They were not at all attentive; and as the prayers were read in +the Bali language, they were not likely to understand a word of them. +The prayers occupied about thirty minutes. + +[Illustration: A BUDDHIST PRIEST.] + +There was quite a crowd of priests in the yard of the service until near +its close. When the reading ended, they came forward and took hold of a +strip of white cloth, six or seven yards long, that was attached to the +head of the coffin. In this position they repeated some short prayers; +and as they finished them the coffin was stripped of its coverings, and +the cloth that came from it was distributed among the priests. + +The body was then taken from the coffin and washed; then it was +replaced, and carried three times around the bier, which proved to be a +pile of fuel ready prepared for the burning. The sons and daughters, and +other relatives of the dead man, were standing near the bier; and though +they were quiet and respectful, they did not display the least emotion, +with the exception of one young woman, who was said to be a favorite +daughter. She wept loudly, and resisted the efforts of the others to +comfort her. + +When the third circuit around the pile was completed, the coffin was +placed upon it. The fire was lighted by one of the priests, who uttered +a short prayer as he touched the taper to the fuel. Meantime small +wax-tapers had been distributed to all present, including our friends; +and after the priest had kindled the flame, these tapers were placed +upon the pile by the persons who held them. Doctor Bronson and the boys +did like the others; and the Doctor told his young companions that they +would give offence if they refused to comply with the custom. The body +was speedily consumed, and the ceremony was over. + +Our friends again returned to their boat, and the conversation about +cremation was resumed. + +"The man whose funeral you have just attended," the Doctor continued, +"was in good circumstances, and the ceremony was made to conform to his +rank and importance. This is the rule in Siam, as it is with funerals in +pretty nearly all parts of the world; and while the cremation of a poor +man will be over in a few hours after his death, that of a king does not +take place for a year." + +"Why do they wait so long?" Frank asked. + +"The real reason is," was the reply, "to enable the surviving relatives +to make the proper preparations for the funeral, and it has been so long +the custom that it is now fixed as a social and religious observance. + +"Immediately after the death of a king, his body is embalmed and laid in +state, with a great deal of ceremony, in the Maha Prasaht. It is the +duty of his successor to arrange the funeral ceremonies; and he +immediately notifies the governors of four of the northern provinces, +where the finest timber of Siam is found, that each of them may send a +stick to form one of the four corners of the P'hra Mane, or funeral +pile. The sticks must be perfectly straight, and not less than two +hundred feet long; at the same time twelve smaller sticks are called for +from as many of the other provinces; and there is also a demand for +timber for the construction of halls and other buildings needed for the +ceremony. + +"All the timber must be new, as it would not be proper for royalty to +have any wood about its funeral pile that had been used before in any +way. Several months are required to procure the timber and erect the +pile and its various annexes, as they cover at least half an acre of +ground. The whole of the work, outside and in, is painted in green and +yellow, and a good deal of gold and silver leaf is spread on in various +places, so that it appears to be of great richness. A large open dome is +in the centre of the edifice, and it contains a small temple, with a +platform on which the body is to be placed. Around the great building +there are sheds and houses to accommodate the priests, who come from all +parts of the kingdom to participate in the ceremonies; and outside of +these sheds there are twelve small pagodas, that are decorated to +represent the large temple. The whole mass of edifices for the funeral +costs a great deal of money, and it is evidently an expensive thing in +Siam for a king to die. + +[Illustration: CHARACTERS IN THE PROCESSION.] + +"On the appointed day there is a grand procession of soldiers and others +dressed to represent various nationalities--not much unlike the +procession at the ceremony of the royal hair-cutting. The entire royal +family is out, and usually the procession takes not less than three +hours to pass a given point. The festivals last ten days; various +amusements are provided during the daytime in the shape of theatricals +and other exhibitions, and in the evening they have fireworks, tumbling, +rope-dancing, and the like. At certain intervals handfuls of money are +thrown among the people, and a very lively scrambling is the result. +Finally the body is burnt with a great deal of ceremony, the king being +the first to apply the torch to the funeral pile of his predecessor. + +"When the burning is completed, the ashes are thrown into the river, and +the bones are placed in an urn and carried to one of the temples in the +palace enclosure. Then the princes and governors who have come from the +various parts of the kingdom, are at liberty to return home; and the +same is the case with the priests who have visited the capital on the +same mission. There is probably no royal display in any part of Europe +that can surpass the cremation of a king in Siam." + +"Do the widows of the king go on the funeral pile to be burnt?" Frank +asked. "Is the custom in Siam the same that it used to be in India?" + +"Not at all," was the reply. "Siam has never had that horrid custom of +the _suttee_, or widow-burning, that so long disgraced India. It is not +allowed there now, and probably there has not been a single case of it +in the last ten or twenty years. None of the religious rites of the +Siamese have ever been accompanied by physical torture." + +"Who pays for all the expense of these ceremonies?" said Fred. + +"Nominally the king pays for them," the Doctor responded; "but in +reality the money comes, as all government expenses come in every part +of the world, from the people. The princes and governors, and other high +dignitaries who attend a funeral or a hair-cutting, make presents that +go in part for defraying the cost of the performances, and, of course, +the money for these presents comes from their subjects." + +"Then it is no more than right," Frank remarked, "that the people should +be amused when they go to these affairs, whether they are funerals or +anything else." + +"But where does the king get all his money?" queried Fred. "That is, how +does he raise his taxes, and how are they collected?" + +"Taxes in Siam," the Doctor explained, "are of various kinds. They are +direct and indirect, just as they are in other countries; and the object +is the same--the production of a revenue. + +"There is a tax on the sale of spirits, as I have already told you, and +there is a tax on gambling. Both these taxes are farmed out, and the +purchaser generally makes a good thing out of his venture. The +purchasers are usually Chinese speculators, and they sub-let their +privileges to smaller contractors for a round profit on their +investments. + +"There is a tax on fishing in the Menam River, and also in the other +streams in which fish abound; the Buddhist religion forbids the +destruction of animal life, but the requirement is rather considered as +applying only to the priesthood, and the common people give little +attention to it. But no one is allowed to fish within a certain distance +of the palace, as all fish in that limit are held to be sacred, and +under the protection of the king. On the canal that encloses the palace +in the direction farthest from the river there are marks to indicate the +limits; inside the line it would be dangerous to the neck of a native +to be caught fishing, while outside of it he may do so with impunity. + +"Then there are taxes on shops and on various branches of trade, just as +there are in the countries of Europe; and there are taxes on fruit-trees +and land, and there are customs-duties, and other things. There is a +poll-tax on the Chinese inhabitants of Siam, which is collected by the +authorities with the utmost care; and any Chinese who neglects to pay it +is liable to be compelled to work it out under the eye of a public +overseer. Every boat that is used as a shop pays a tax, and so do all +the shops through the country. Then there are certain articles of export +that are considered the monopoly of the king, and as he has no +competition in buying, and no opposition in selling, he has a good thing +of it. The rules about trade are changing every year; and so, if you +make a note of what I have told you, it is well to remember that what +you have written for the day may not be good for all time." + +"The consul told us about the imports of Siam," said one of the boys, +"when we were going up the river to Ayuthia. Please tell us about the +exports. He mentioned rice and sugar as articles that the Siamese send +to other countries, but did not say what other things they had to sell." + +"The exports of Siam," said the Doctor, in answer to the above remark, +"comprise a good many things. Besides the articles mentioned, the +country produces and sends to foreign ports a considerable amount of +tin, which is dug from its mines; and it also exports small quantities +of other metals. Then it produces pepper, tobacco, cardamons, ivory, and +various dye-stuffs. It also exports the skins of the rhinoceros, +buffalo, ox, elephant, tiger, leopard, bear, snake, and deer; and some +of these articles go out in the form of leather. How great are the +quantities of these things I am unable to say, as I have not studied the +tables of imports and exports very closely." + +Frank was curious to know how the people caught the snakes whose skins +they exported. He thought a snake was a disagreeable thing to associate +with, and not at all easy to capture. + +The Doctor explained that the matter was by no means as difficult as he +imagined. The snakes are fond of chickens, and they come around the +houses of the people, particularly those that are built on rafts, in +search of their favorite prey. When a native discovers any indications +that a snake has been around his premises, he arranges a coop made of +strong sticks of bamboo, and, after putting a chicken inside, he leaves +an opening in one end large enough for the snake to enter. He goes into +the coop and kills the chicken, which he swallows whole, after the +manner of snakes in general. He is so gorged that he cannot escape, and +is found in his prison in the morning. Under these circumstances he is +easily killed, and his skin is an ample compensation for the slaughtered +fowl. + +Fred had observed little cages on poles rising from the roofs of many of +the houses, and naturally inquired their use. + +"Those cages," said Doctor Bronson, "are intended as traps for birds. If +you examine them closely you will perceive that they are double; one +half is intended as a trap, and is left open for the wild bird to enter, +while the other contains a captive bird who serves as a decoy." + +Naturally the conversation turned upon the birds of Siam and their +peculiarities. + +[Illustration: HAUNTS OF SEA-BIRDS ON THE COAST.] + +"I cannot give you a very good account of the birds of Siam," said the +genial Doctor, "for the reason that the ornithology of the country has +not, as far as I am aware, been carefully and exhaustively studied. The +birds of prey include the white eagle and also the common brown eagle; +and they have, as you have observed, the vulture, which is the same +species that is found in India. The kite is very common; and there are +two or three varieties of the hawk. As for crows, they have enough in +Siam to destroy all the corn in the States east of the Hudson River; +and if the Siamese attempted to raise that article, they would doubtless +have a hard time of it." + +Frank thought they had seen crows enough around Bangkok to supply the +wants of the whole of Massachusetts. Evidently the inhabitants did not +molest them, or they would not be as bold as he had found them. + +"Then, too," the Doctor continued, "they have the sparrow, the same as +in Europe and America, and the ornithologists say that Siam is the most +southerly limit of this bird. As you go south in Asia, you will not find +the sparrow anywhere else except where he has been introduced by the +European inhabitants. + +[Illustration: EDIBLE SWALLOWS NESTS.] + +"Some of the trade of Siam consists in shipping to China the edible +portion of a bird's-nest, and this is the material from which the +Chinese make their famous 'birds'-nest soup.' In Canton and Hong-kong it +sells for its weight in silver, and sometimes is even dearer than that. +It is found on the western coast of the Gulf of Siam, and also on the +east coast of the Bay of Bengal; the bird makes his nest in caves among +the rocks, and the work of collecting the nests is both difficult and +dangerous." + +"What kind of a bird is it?" Fred asked. + +"It is a species of swallow," was the reply; "it is about as large as +the common swallow with which you are familiar, and its movements +through the air are much like those of the American bird; and in the +same way that our swallows like to build in barns and chimneys, and +other dark places, the Siamese one constructs his dwelling among the +rocky caves along the coast." + +"What is the peculiarity of the bird's-nest that the Chinese like so +much?" one of the boys inquired. + +"The peculiarity is in the material of which it is constructed," the +Doctor answered. "The bird gathers a glutinous weed from the coral +rocks, and carries it in its mouth and stomach to the cave where it +lives. There the plastic substance is shaped into a nest about the size +of a common teacup. There are three qualities, and they are prized +accordingly: the first is when the nest is freshly made, and the +material is snowy white; the second, when the bird has laid her eggs; +and the third, when she has hatched her brood and gone. The bird is +known as the _lawit_ in Java, and the _salangane_ in the Philippine +Islands, while its scientific name is _Hirundo esculenta_. + +[Illustration: SIAMESE WATER BIRDS.] + +"Among the birds inhabiting the Siamese forests there is the common +peacock, which is shot for the sake of its feathers; and there are +several kinds of pigeons. Then they have the quail and the pheasant, the +latter in several varieties; and they have the common cock, or barn-yard +fowl, running wild in great numbers. The chickens that are sold in the +markets of Siam are these same wild birds domesticated, and those that +we have in America are descended from Asiatic ancestors that went to +Europe centuries and centuries ago. They have wild chickens in Siam, +just as we have wild turkeys in our own country. + +[Illustration: PHEASANT AND YOUNG.] + +"They have in Siam a goodly number of evading birds, and not many +swimmers. Ducks are bred by the Chinese residents, but not generally by +the Siamese, and I am told that they do not exist in a wild state. The +goose is rarely seen; but there are plenty of pelicans and kingfishers, +and several birds of the crane and stork families." + +"What was the bird we saw at the consul's house the day we called +there?" queried Frank. + +"You mean the one that kept up such an incessant talking?" + +"Yes," Frank answered; "he rattled away in Siamese, and he called out +'Boy!' two or three times; and it sounded so much like a human voice +that I thought, at first, it was some one calling a servant." + +"That was a mineur, or minor," the Doctor explained; "and it is said to +surpass the parrot in its ability to talk. He learns very easily, and is +as great an imitator as the American mocking-bird. The one at the +consulate can say a great many things in Siamese, but he does not yet +know much English. A friend of mine had one of these birds that was the +source of great amusement; he would whistle, in exact imitation of his +master, and he could sing certain bits of music without making a +mistake. When my friend first obtained him, the bird could only speak +the native language; but in a little while he picked up several phrases +in English, and pronounced them perfectly. + +"One thing he did was to call the servant, as he had heard his owner. As +you have seen, the way of summoning servants is by shouting 'Boy!' and +on hearing this word the servant comes. My friend's bird had caught up +the word, and every little while he would shout it so as to deceive the +servant, and bring him to his master. Naturally the servant was annoyed +at being disturbed, and so my friend told him that when he wanted him he +would call 'Boy! boy!' and he need not come when he heard the word only +once. In three days the bird was doing the same thing, and deceiving the +servant. Then it was arranged that my friend would strike on the table +or clap his hands, as they do in Turkey and Syria. This was too much for +the mineur; he found that he could not amuse himself as before. The one +at the consulate is learning the same trick, and amusing himself by +imitating what he hears spoken around him." + +Frank wished he could take one of these birds home with him; but the +Doctor said it would be too much trouble to do so. The mineur is of +tropical origin, and the climate of the Northern States of America is +not suited to him. "The chances are," said he, "that if you took a dozen +mineurs to carry to America, you would lose three-fourths of them on the +way, and the others would not live more than a few months after getting +there." + +As the Doctor closed his remark about the mineur, the boat touched the +landing in front of the hotel, and their morning's excursion came to an +end. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +PRESENTATION TO THE KING.--DINNER AT THE PALACE. + + +While they were at lunch, and discussing the sights and scenes of the +morning, a messenger arrived with a note from the consul. It was to the +effect that the king would receive him, accompanied by Doctor Bronson, +at three o'clock that afternoon. The consul added that he would call at +the hotel with his boat about half-past two, and they would proceed +thence together. The Doctor had no time to lose in making his toilet for +the ceremony; he finished it, and was seated on the veranda of the hotel +not more than two minutes before the consul arrived. At the latter's +suggestion, the boys joined the party; and it was arranged that, while +the two gentlemen were having their audience with the king, the youths +could amuse themselves in the palace-grounds under the guidance of the +consular secretary. + +[Illustration: COURT-YARD OF THE ROYAL PALACE AT BANGKOK.] + +They had a slow journey up the river to the palace, as the tide was +against them, and compelled the boat to hug close to the shore; but they +were there a little before three o'clock, and had a short walk from the +landing-place to the front of the palace. They were shown to a platform +in the court-yard, and were received there by the interpreter and +secretary of the king, who announced that his majesty would be ready for +the audience in a few moments. The platform was under a wide-spreading +tree, that furnished a most grateful shade; and there were many small +trees and bushes growing in large pots that stood in irregular rows. Two +or three groups of servants were crouched in the yard, which was paved +with large blocks of stone, and a little way off a royal elephant was +undergoing his daily exercise in charge of his keepers. Coffee was +brought, and with it cigars and cigarettes; and a quarter of an hour +passed away quite agreeably to all concerned. At the end of that time, a +messenger came and said something to the secretary in Siamese; the +secretary then turned to the gentlemen, and told them the king was +waiting for them. He led the way towards a low gate-way, and the boys +remained with the consular secretary. + +They had a pleasant ramble in the palace-grounds, and saw the stables +where the white elephants were kept, as well as the elephants +themselves. The secretary told them the audience would occupy about half +an hour, and they would have that time at their disposal before +returning to the platform in the court-yard. In half an hour they came +back, and waited for the Doctor and the consul. They were not there +three minutes before the gentlemen returned, and were ready to go back +to the hotel. + +On their way homeward, the Doctor told the boys what he had seen and +done, and the consul added here and there little bits of information to +the Doctor's story. The Doctor was so pleased with the visit, that he +spent the evening writing an account of the affair; and it was not till +a late hour that he finished it. He readily consented to allow the boys +to copy it, so that it could form part of the narrative of their journey +in Siam. Here it is: + +"After leaving the platform, where we had rested to await the pleasure +of the king, we soon came to a gate-way that was guarded by a double +file of soldiers, who presented arms as we approached. The gate-way led +us close to the apartments of the women, and I managed to have glimpses +of the dusky occupants of the place as we walked along. Some of them +were pretty; but their mouths were so disfigured by betel-chewing that +the effect was not agreeable. Our glance was only a hurried one, as we +were speedily at the door of the palace. + +"We mounted a stairway to the king's apartments; then we passed through +a hall ornamented with busts and portraits of European sovereigns, +living or dead, and then we entered a large saloon, where we found +ourselves in the presence of the king. + +"His majesty approached as we entered--exactly as a private gentleman +might do in his own house when a visitor calls--and, after shaking hands +with the consul, he paused for the latter to introduce me. As soon as I +was introduced, he shook hands with me after the Occidental fashion, and +invited us to seats near a table in the centre of the room. The sofa +where he sat was at right angles to the position of our chairs, so that, +by partially turning, he faced us both. At his left stood the +interpreter, who translated the king's Siamese words into English, but +rarely translated our own words into Siamese, as the king understands +our language perfectly, and speaks it with very few mistakes. +Ceremonious presentations are always conducted with the aid of an +interpreter, and the king appears to understand only his own language; +but when he wishes to have a free and confidential conversation with a +foreign consul or other personage, he dismisses his interpreter, and +talks away in English with perfect ease. + +[Illustration: CHULALONKORN I., SUPREME KING OF SIAM.] + +"His majesty's voice is full, clear, and resonant, and he pronounces +every word with the utmost care. As he talks, his face brightens; he +gesticulates gracefully, and to a sufficient extent to make his +conversation quite un-Oriental in character. His complexion is the true +Siamese bronze; his cheek-bones are high, and the outlines of his face +are decidedly handsome. His thick black hair is parted gracefully in the +middle, and not cropped after the Siamese style; he has a slender +mustache, which evinces careful training, and gives promise of future +greatness. He wore at the ceremonial the Siamese trousers, with white +stockings, and he had on his feet shoes of patent-leather, if I observed +them correctly. His upper garment was a sack of military cut, and made +of white linen; it terminated with a sort of upright collar, and was +closely buttoned. The only ornament I noticed upon it was a row of three +stars on each side of the throat. + +"Like all other kings, his majesty is well provided with uniforms, and +every ceremonial has a dress peculiarly adapted to it. His military +uniform, when he appears at the head of his troops, is quite European in +style, but his court-dress for state ceremonials adheres strictly to +the Siamese model. It is richly embroidered and studded with jewels; +the crown rises in the form of an elongated pyramid, with an aigrette of +jewels, and the sandals are so thickly set with precious stones that +there is very little of the foundation-work to be seen. + +"His majesty asked how long I had been in Siam, and how I liked the +country; wished to know if I had visited the temples of Bangkok, and +what I thought of them; and made other inquiries touching my movements. +When these questions had been answered, he spoke of the visit of the +United States ships of war several months before, and expressed the wish +to see more of our ships and more of our countrymen in Siam. He asked +when we would have American steamers running between Bangkok and +Hong-kong to connect with the Pacific Mail and Occidental and Oriental +lines, and said he hoped for a rapid increase of commerce between Siam +and the United States. Evidently he is sincerely desirous of intimate +commercial relations with us, as he said there were many articles of +American manufacture which they wished to be supplied with; while we, on +the other hand, would doubtless be willing to purchase rice at a lower +price than we were now paying. + +"Tea and cigars were served while we were engaged on these topics, which +occupied a period of ten or fifteen minutes. Then the conversation took +a miscellaneous turn; and he dwelt upon the peculiarities of the +different languages that are spoken in his dominions: it seems that his +majesty is well versed in the various dialects and distinct languages, +and he is like the Emperor of Austria, as he can converse with all his +subjects in their own tongue. Then he talked with the consul about some +matter that the latter had brought before him at a previous interview; +and after that there was a convenient pause, in which we rose and made +our adieux. The king followed us to the door of the room, and, before +shaking hands in farewell, he invited the consul and myself to dine with +him the following evening. Of course we accepted without a moment's +hesitation, and then made our way out as we had entered. The whole +affair from beginning to end was quite free from stiffness or severity, +and proved the king to be, as he is represented, a most accomplished +gentleman." + +Sixty years ago a presentation to the King of Siam was a much more +ceremonious affair than the one here recorded, and it required a great +deal of study and rehearsal on the part of all concerned. Mr. Crawfurd, +who came to Siam in 1822 at the head of an embassy from the +Governor-general of India, gives the following account of his +presentation: + + "We left our dwelling at half-past eight in the morning for the + palace. A twelve-oared barge, with the rowers dressed in scarlet + uniforms, was furnished by the court for the conveyance of the + gentlemen of the mission; another for our Indian attendants, about + twenty in number; while the sepoys of the escort were conveyed in + the ship's launch. It was made a particular request that our + servants, especially the sepoys of the escort, should form part of + the procession. About nine o'clock we landed under the walls of the + palace, where we found an immense concourse of people waiting to + view the spectacle. The accommodation for conveying us to the + palace consisted of net hammocks suspended from poles, furnished + with an embroidered carpet, and, according to the custom of the + country, borne by two men only. The management of these vehicles + was a matter of some difficulty, and our awkwardness became a + subject of some amusement to the crowd. We passed through a street + of Siamese military arranged in single file, and then came to a + gate-way where we were compelled to leave our side-arms, as no + person was permitted to come into the palace enclosure with arms + about him. We were also compelled to dismount from our litters and + leave our escort behind us. + + [Illustration: PRIME-MINISTER OF SIAM.] + + "We passed through another street of soldiers, and finally came to + a large hall, eighty or ninety feet long by forty broad. We were + conducted inside, and carpets were spread for us to sit on while + waiting to be summoned to the royal presence. We waited about + twenty minutes, and were then taken to the hall of audience, where + we were requested to take off our shoes and leave behind us our + Indian attendants. As soon as we entered the gate we found a band + of music of about one hundred persons drawn up to form a street for + our reception. The instruments consisted of drums, gongs, brass + flutes, and flageolets. + + "Opposite the door of the hall there was an immense screen, which + concealed the interior from view. We passed the screen to the right + side, and, as had been agreed upon, taking off our hats, made a + respectful bow in the European manner. Every foot of the great hall + was so crowded with prostrate courtiers that it was difficult to + move without treading upon some officer of state. Precedence is + decided upon such occasions by relative vicinity to the throne; the + princes being near the foot of it, the principal officers of + government next to them, and thus in succession down to the lowest + officer who is admitted. We seated ourselves a little in front of + the screen, and made three obeisances to the throne in unison with + the courtiers. This obeisance consisted in raising the joined hands + three times to the head, and each time touching the forehead. To + have completed the Siamese obeisance it would have been necessary + to bend the body to the ground, and touch the earth with the + forehead at each prostration. + + "The hall of audience was a well proportioned and spacious saloon, + about eighty feet long, perhaps half this in breadth, and about + thirty feet high. Two rows, each of ten handsome wooden pillars, + formed an avenue from the door to the throne, which was situated at + the upper end of the hall. The walls and ceiling were painted a + bright vermilion, the cornices of the former being gilded, and the + latter thickly spangled with stars in rich gilding. The throne and + its appendages occupied the whole of the upper end of the hall. The + throne was gilded all over, and about fifteen feet high, and it had + much the appearance of a handsome pulpit. A pair of curtains of + gold tissue upon a yellow ground concealed the whole of the upper + part of the room except the throne, and they were intended to be + drawn over this also except when used. The king, when seated on his + throne, had more the appearance of a statue than of a living being. + The general appearance of the hall of audience, the prostrate + attitude of the courtiers, the situation of the king, and the + silence which prevailed, presented a very imposing spectacle, and + reminded us much more of a temple crowded with votaries engaged in + the performance of some solemn rite of religion than the + audience-chamber of a temporal monarch. + + [Illustration: THE KING OF SIAM IN HIS STATE ROBES.] + + "The words which his Siamese majesty condescended to address to us + were delivered in a grave, measured, and oratorical manner. One of + the first officers of state delivered them to a person of inferior + rank, and this person to the interpreter who was behind us, and + explained them in the Malay language, which we understood. After a + few questions and answers relative to our mission, the king said, + + "'I am glad to see an envoy here from the Governor-general of + India. Whatever you have to say, communicate with the minister of + foreign affairs. What we chiefly want from you are fire-arms.' + + "His majesty had no sooner pronounced these words than we heard a + loud stroke, as if given by a wand against a piece of wainscoting, + and then the curtains on each side of the throne, moved by some + invisible agency, closed upon it. This was followed by the same + flourish of wind instruments as on our entrance, and the courtiers, + falling on their faces to the ground, made six successive + prostrations. We made three obeisances, sitting upright as agreed + upon. The ceremony was over. + + "During the audience a heavy shower had fallen, and it was still + raining. His majesty took this opportunity of presenting each of us + with a small umbrella, and sent a message to desire that we would + view the curiosities of the palace at our leisure. When we reached + the threshold of the audience-hall we perceived the court yard and + the roads extremely wet and dirty from the rain, and naturally + demanded our shoes, which we had left at the last gate. This was a + favor which could not be yielded; and we were told that the princes + of the blood could not wear shoes within the sacred enclosure where + we now were. It would have been impolitic to evince ill-humor or + remonstrance, and therefore we feigned a cheerful compliance with + this inconvenient usage, and proceeded to gratify our curiosity." + +[Illustration: A YOUNGER BROTHER OF THE KING.] + +Doctor Bronson had no such ceremony to pass through as did Mr. Crawfurd +in 1822; he was not required to remove his shoes at the gate-way, and he +did not pass along a hall full of kneeling courtiers. The present king +has ordained that persons of all ranks shall come before him erect, just +as they would enter the presence of a king in Europe, and as far as +possible he has made the usages of his court correspond to the European +model. + +Of the dinner to which the consul and Doctor Bronson were invited, the +latter wrote as follows: + +"The dinner was quite in the European style, and was prepared by a +French cook who has been in his majesty's employ for several years. The +party consisted of his majesty, six of his younger brothers, the king's +private secretary, the consul, and myself. The conversation was general, +and touched many topics; the king had many questions to ask about the +United States, and particularly wished to know the difference between +Siamese slavery of the present day and American slavery of the past. +After dinner we sat on the balcony, listening to the music of the band, +and breathing the soft evening air. During part of the dinner and all +the rest of the evening the king threw off his reserve, dismissed his +interpreter, and conversed freely in English, which he spoke easily, and +with great correctness. It was half-past nine o'clock when we left the +palace, and were escorted to our boat to return to the hotel." + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +THE WHITE ELEPHANT.--VISIT TO THE SECOND KING OF SIAM. + + +The time that Doctor Bronson passed in the presence of the king was +utilized by the boys in a visit to the stables of the famous white +elephants of the royal palace of Bangkok. + +When the Doctor was busy in the evening with his account of the +presentation to the king, Frank occupied himself in putting on paper his +experiences among the animals that are held in such reverence by the +Siamese. Fred sat by his side and gave occasional hints about the story, +and made sure that nothing they had seen was omitted. + +[Illustration: A WHITE ELEPHANT WORSHIPPING THE SUN AND MOON. + +(From a Chinese Drawing.)] + +"Our friends," said he, "will want to know everything we can tell them +about the white elephants." + +"Of course they will," Frank replied; "they don't have white elephants +in America--at any rate, our white elephants are not of the Siamese +kind." + +"I don't think I ever heard of one in our country," said Fred; "and if +there ever was one there, it is news to me." + +"Don't you remember," Frank responded, smiling, "that your uncle Charles +was said to have bought a white elephant a year or two ago?" + +"Yes, I remember it perfectly," was the reply. "It was not a white +elephant that he bought, but only a large house. It was three times as +big as he needed; and after losing a great deal of money in repairing +it, and hiring a crowd of servants to keep it in order, he sold it for +much less than he gave. Of course, I understand that when a man has +bought something he does not need, and which involves him in a ruinous +expense, he is said to have bought a white elephant. I wonder where the +expression came from." + +Just then Doctor Bronson entered the room to look for something he +needed, and the boys appealed the question to him. Both of them had +heard the allusion to "buying a white elephant," and knew its meaning. +What they now wished to find was where it originated. + +The Doctor explained that it was said to be the custom in certain +Eastern countries for the king to give a white elephant to any nobleman +whom he wished to ruin. As the present came from the king, it could not +be sold or given away: the expense of keeping the animal was enormous, +as he required a great number of attendants, and consumed vast +quantities of food. In a little while the nobleman would be a beggar, as +his estate would be entirely consumed in maintaining the elephant; and +so it came to be understood that when a man received such a present, it +was a polite way of driving him into bankruptcy. "There is also a +story," said the Doctor, "of a man who drew a white elephant in a +lottery; he could not give his prize away, as nobody would accept it, +and he could not kill him, as such an act was a crime of the highest +character. It would not do to turn him loose, as he would then be +responsible for all the damage caused by the elephant; and if he kept +the beast it would soon eat him into poverty. Consequently, when a man +has something in his possession difficult to get rid of and costly to +keep, he is said to have drawn a white elephant." + +The Doctor found what he wanted and retired, and the boys proceeded with +their story. With Fred's assistance, Frank wrote as follows: + +"The white elephant is not white by any means. He is only a sort of +cream or flesh color; and anybody who expects him to rival the snow in +the purity of his complexion will be disappointed. But, after all, he is +not so dark as a good many men whom we call white, and so I suppose his +name is quite proper. He is very scarce, and this is one reason why he +is prized so highly. + +"Siam is not the only country where the white elephant is regarded with +special honor; the animal receives great attention, and is very much +prized in Burmah and other Buddhist lands; and it is said that some of +the wars between Burmah and Siam have arisen from disputes about the +possession of white elephants. Money cannot buy them, and no king who +possessed one would dare to sell it for any price, as his people would +think he had defied the powers of Heaven, and would be sure to bring the +severest calamities upon them. Sir John Bowring says that when he came +to Siam at the head of an embassy from the Queen of England in 1855, the +king sent some presents for Her Majesty, and among them was a golden box +locked with a golden key. It was said to be more precious than all the +other presents; but it contained nothing beyond a few hairs from the +tail of the white elephant. + +"The Buddhists have great reverence for anything that is white; and when +whiteness is combined with great rarity, and also with magnificence, it +is easy to see why the white elephant is above all other animals. 'It is +believed,' Sir John Bowring says, 'that Buddha, the divine emanation +from the Deity, must necessarily, in his multitudinous metamorphoses or +transmissions through all existences and through millions of æons, +delight to abide for some time in that grand incarnation of purity which +is represented by the white elephant. While the priests teach that there +is no spot in the heavens above, nor in the earth below, or the waters +under the earth, which is not visited in the peregrinations of the +divinity, they hold that his tarrying may be longer in the white +elephant than in any other abode, and that in the possession of the +sacred creature they may possess the presence of Buddha himself.' + +"The white elephant is considered of equal rank with the king, and is +treated with all possible dignity; he has a stable to himself, and ten +or twelve keepers to look after his wants. The first one we saw was +standing on a platform which was being swept by a priest; and we were +told that none but priests were allowed to serve the sacred animal. He +was chained to a couple of posts, so that he could not step away from +the platform; and the interpreter told us not to go near him, as he was +not of a pleasant temper, and might hurt us. The keeper gave him a few +bananas, which he appeared quite willing to take; the fact is, the +elephant is very fond of bananas, and the wild ones in the forest will +often run considerable risk to get them. After he had swallowed the +bananas he reached for a truss of hay, but for some reason the keeper +did not think proper to let him have it. He showed some temper, and the +keeper brought him to a sense of his duty by pricking his foot with a +sharp iron till drops of blood came from it. This seemed to us a funny +way to treat a king, and we wondered how his majesty liked it. + +[Illustration: WHITE MONKEY IN ELEPHANT STABLES.] + +"We saw two white elephants, and each had a stable to himself, or rather +a palace. Their tusks were encircled with hoops or rings of pure gold, +and there were golden or gilded canopies above them, and ornaments of +great value in other parts of the stable. In one of the stables there +was a white monkey, and the interpreter told us that the white monkey is +an object of great veneration among the Siamese, and is kept in the +elephant stables to prevent the presence of evil spirits. The one we saw +was a very quiet and dignified monkey of a perfectly pure white; he was +above the ordinary size, and had a long tail, and they told us that he +was caught in the forests on the upper waters of the Menam River. + +"When a white elephant is caught, there is great rejoicing throughout +Siam. The king and court go out to meet him as he is brought towards the +capital, and there is a grand procession with banners and music. +Meantime a house has been prepared for him, and some of the members of +the noble families of Siam are appointed to wait on him. He has +everything he can possibly want except his liberty; and when he goes to +the river to bathe he is escorted by other elephants, who are supposed +to be highly honored by admission to his presence. But, in spite of all +attentions, he sometimes takes sick and dies, and then the rejoicing is +changed to mourning. The whole nation is wrapped in deep grief, and the +funeral ceremonies are of an elaborate character. Fortunately for the +Siamese, the elephant is an animal of long life, and so they are not +often called upon to mourn the loss of one of these sacred beasts. + +"After we had seen the white elephants, we went to the stables of the +common ones. There were a dozen or more of them in a shed that was quite +open to the weather on all its sides, and they had only the ground to +lie upon. They were chained up by the forefeet, and when we went to the +stable they had just been fed. Each of them had a bundle of freshly-cut +grass; and we were told that a healthy elephant consumes every day not +less than seven or eight hundred pounds of this food. These elephants +are kept for working about the palace-grounds; and their occupation at +present is in hauling timber from the bank of the river to the places +where it is wanted in the construction of a new wing to the king's +residence. + +[Illustration: HOW AN ELEPHANT FEEDS.] + +"We were much interested in seeing the way the elephant eats. + +"Everybody has seen the trunk of an elephant, either on the animal +himself or in pictures. Did you ever know that there are more than forty +thousand muscles in this wonderful structure, and that it is powerful +enough to pull down a large tree, and at the same time sufficiently +delicate to pick up a pin? That is what Cuvier says about it, and he is +the best authority that we know of. Rennie, in his 'Natural History of +the Elephant,' says the same thing; and when we consider the uses of the +animal's trunk, and the many operations it will perform, the statement +is not at all surprising. And when we saw the elephants at the royal +palace taking their food, we could not help admiring the skill with +which they twisted the wisps of grass and thrust them into their +capacious mouths. + +"One of the beasts was very good-natured, and allowed us to examine the +termination of his proboscis, as long as we did not touch it. As the +elephant's existence depends upon his trunk he is very sensitive about +it, and is constantly afraid of injuring it. They say that this is the +reason why he always elevates it in the air when there is any danger, +and that his great fear of the tiger arises from the fact that the tiger +always attempts to disable the elephant by springing on his trunk. + +[Illustration] + +"The trunk that we looked at had a projection that might be called a +finger, and directly opposite there was a sort of thumb. The finger was +exceedingly flexible, while the thumb was not; but they fitted to each +other so well that they could hold on to any thing even if it was very +small. Here is a picture of it. + +[Illustration] + +"And here are some more pictures, showing how the elephant pulls up the +grass when he is feeding in the open air, and also how he grasps it +before he thrusts it into his mouth. Then you can see how he takes hold +of a carrot, or any other root, and how he seizes a branch of a tree +that requires him to exercise a part of his great strength. In the +latter case he twines his trunk around the branch, and if he is pulling +it down from the tree he raises himself on his hind legs, and lets his +weight hang by his trunk. In this way he can bring down a good-sized +branch without much trouble; and as he feeds on the leaves and small +limbs in the forest where he lives, his power is very useful to him. + +[Illustration: ELEPHANTS DRINKING.] + +"When he has seized anything with his proboscis, his next effort is to +carry it to his mouth. This he does by bending his trunk, just as a man +bends his finger; and when he has it properly bent he thrusts the +article between his jaws, and has it all safe and secure. He drinks by +drawing the trunk full of water, and then thrusting it to his mouth; it +is sometimes thought that he draws water through the trunk directly into +his stomach, but such is not the case. He breathes through the trunk, +but he cannot take food or drink through it, as it only communicates +with his lungs. Here is the way he supplies himself. + +"There used to be a question among the boys at school, 'Why do white +sheep eat more hay than black ones?' The answer was, 'Because there are +more of them.' That may be all right for sheep; but if you apply the +question to elephants, you are obliged to reverse it, as there are very +few white elephants, and any number of black ones." + +By the time the above account was finished it was after eleven o'clock. +Labor was suspended, and the boys went to bed. In the morning they had a +short time to spare before breakfast, and Fred thought he would write a +description of his sleeping-room and its peculiarities, and send it +along with the story of the visit to the palace. So he took pen and +paper, and wrote as follows: + +[Illustration: FRED'S TORMENTOR.] + +"The weather is so warm here that we don't need any bed-clothing, and +consequently they don't give us any; we have hard beds with harder +pillows, and they are much better than any soft beds and pillows could +possibly be. A sheet to lie on is spread over the bed, and all the +covering we need is the pajamas, or sleeping suits that everybody wears +here. Mosquitoes are abundant, and of all sizes; and so they cover the +beds with a netting of very fine mesh to keep out the smallest of these +troublesome pests. The nets not only keep out the mosquitoes but they +keep in the heat, and for this reason we suffer a great deal from the +high temperature. I get up several times in the night, and go and sit on +the balcony, just to get a little cool; every time I wake I am in a +profuse perspiration, and it is largely caused by the closeness of the +air under the mosquito netting. + +"When we first came here we were disturbed frequently by the _gecko_, a +lizard that climbs around the walls and partitions of the houses, and +goes wherever he pleases. He is five or six inches long, and not pretty +to look at, and he makes a noise like some one calling out 'Gecko!' It +is from his call that he gets his name, and until we got used to it we +were waked by it. It isn't pleasant to see these lizards climbing around +your room; but everybody says they are perfectly harmless, and they eat +up a great many insects. There is a smaller lizard that eats mosquitoes, +or anything else he can manage, and it is very funny to see him at work. +Frank and I watched one the other evening for half an hour, and saw him +do a great deal of good. He is just the color of the boards where he +clings, or very nearly so, and therefore he is not easily seen. When a +mosquito passed within half an inch of his nose he darted out his long +flexible tongue with the rapidity of lightning, and caught his prize on +the end of it. The mosquito disappeared like a flash, and then the +lizard watched for another, and took him in the same way. + +"When a mosquito or a fly lighted two or three inches away, the lizard +would creep along like a cat, and hug close to the boards. He did it +very slowly till he got within reach, and then out came the tongue as +before, and he rarely missed his aim. One large fly was too much for +him, and after getting him on the end of his tongue he had a sharp +struggle to swallow him. The fly escaped, and after that the lizard was +more cautious about the size of his game." + +Breakfast was announced, and the story of the Siamese lizard was dropped +for the present. + +While they were at breakfast a messenger came from the consul to Doctor +Bronson. He announced that the second king of Siam would receive them +that afternoon, as they had been received the day before by the supreme +king. + +The boys had heard that Siam was ruled by two kings, and the Doctor took +the opportunity to explain the relations between these rulers. + +"The king at the grand palace, where we went yesterday," said Doctor +Bronson, "is the first or supreme king of the country. The second king +occupies a position that is difficult to understand clearly when we +compare it with our own form of government. He is not like our +Vice-president of the United States, as he does not inherit the throne +on the death of the supreme king; nor does he resemble the ancient +Mikado of Japan in being a spiritual ruler, while the first king is a +temporal one. According to Sir John Bowring, his opinion and sanction +are sought by the king in important matters, and his name is associated +in treaties. He is supposed to have control of one-third of the +revenues, and has a portion of the army under his command; in time of +war he is expected to have direct control of the armies in the field, +and to go with them in person, but this is not always the case. +Occasionally the office of second king is abolished, and it seems to be +largely in the power of the first king to do what he pleases concerning +the rank and authority of his subordinate. + +"The second king has a palace nearly as large as that of the first, and +he has ministers corresponding to those that form the highest cabinet. +The same respect is shown to him when he goes abroad as to the first +king, and the latter is the only personage in the country to whom the +second king must pay visits of ceremony. Siam is the only country in the +world that has this arrangement for dividing the royal power, and when +we come to examine it closely it will be found that there is not a very +large division, after all. Not long ago, as I am told, there was a +quarrel between the first and second kings of Siam, which resulted in +the second king seeking the protection of the English consul. Since that +time the power of the second king has been less than it was before, and +the breach between the two great heads of the kingdom of Siam has not +been entirely healed." + +At the appointed time the consul called for the Doctor, and the two +gentlemen proceeded on their excursion, leaving the boys at the hotel. +The journey to the palace was not made in a boat, as on the day before, +but in a carriage, for the reason that going in a boat would necessitate +a long walk from the landing to the gates of the royal residence. On his +return the Doctor gave the following account of his visit: + +"We drove through a narrow gate-way where some soldiers were on guard, +and soon found ourselves in an open court-yard of the palace. Here we +left the carriage, and entered a large anteroom at the head of a flight +of stairs, where we waited while a messenger went to inform the king of +our arrival. He came back shortly, accompanied by a gentleman who spoke +English and Siamese with equal fluency, as he is the son of an American +missionary, and was born in Siam. Under his guidance we went to the +reception-hall, which was in a large building just off the court-yard. +It was entered directly from the open air, and not by passing through a +series of halls, as in the palace of the first king. His majesty rose as +we entered, and came forward a few steps to meet us; he first shook +hands with the consul, and then with me after the consul had introduced +me, and the interpreter had translated his remarks. + +"The king asked us to be seated, and gave us the example by taking a +chair for himself, and indicating the ones we were to occupy. He is a +man of about fifty-five or sixty years old, and has a pleasant and +intelligent face; he speaks English with considerable fluency, and has +read a great deal about England and America. He is a great admirer of +America, and is proud of the name of George Washington, which he bears." + +"Are we to understand," Frank asked, "that the second king of Siam is +named George Washington?" + +"Hardly as much as that," was the Doctor's reply; "he was known among +the foreign residents of Bangkok by the name of Prince George before he +was proclaimed second king. He has at least half a dozen Siamese titles, +and places the name of 'George Washington' before them. He assumed it +himself, as I am informed, with the consent of the old King of Siam, +because he admired the character of the man whom we hold in such great +reverence in America. He has been, and continues to be, a pretty close +student of science, politics, and other matters, and is a man of more +than ordinary intelligence. + +"Soon after we were seated, coffee and cigars were brought, and the king +offered us some of the latter from his own box of massive gold. +Conversation began immediately; the questions and answers being rather +slow, as they were made through the interpreter. The king asked when I +left America, and what I thought of Siam; and when I spoke in praise of +his country he appeared greatly pleased. Then we talked about the +scenery of the tropics in comparison with that of the temperate zone; +and the king said he was sorry America was so far off, as it would give +him great pleasure to visit it. Then we talked about the fruits and +flowers of Siam, the many varieties of the palm-tree, and the great uses +of the palm and bamboo to mankind. Then the king asked about some of the +productions of America; and after that there came a pause, which gave us +an opportunity to rise and make our adieux. The king shook hands with us +at parting, and hoped I would like my stay in Siam so well that I would +come here again. We found our carriage, and drove home again; but, +before leaving the palace, we went to see an elephant which belongs to +the second king, and is said to be over a hundred years old. It has been +a long time in captivity, and is very large and powerful, and its temper +is anything but amiable." + +[Illustration: THE SECOND KING OF SIAM, IN STATE ROBES.] + +Fred asked if the king wore his state-dress as it was represented in the +pictures he had seen of his majesty. + +The Doctor answered that the king was plainly dressed, and the only +indications of rank about his garments were some stars embroidered on +the collar of his coat. The coat was short, and rather in form like a +jacket; it hung loosely, and by no means concealed a vest of white linen +that joined with trousers of Siamese pattern, to complete the clothing +of royalty. On his feet he wore a pair of embroidered shoes that were +cut low enough for slippers, and could be easily thrown off without the +aid of a boot-jack. His attendants were in Siamese garb, and the general +surroundings of the place were more Oriental in their character than +those of the palace of the supreme king. + +Frank and Fred listened with great interest to what the Doctor had to +say of his visit to the second king of Siam. Through fear of forgetting +some portion of it, they proceeded to put it upon paper at once; and, as +the afternoon was far gone when they began, they had sufficient +occupation for the rest of the day. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +LEAVING SIAM.--LIFE UNDER THE OCEAN WAVE. + + +The time came for leaving Siam. Our friends had enjoyed their visit to +the Land of the White Elephant, and had seen many things that were full +of interest; they wished to remain longer, but they remembered there +were other countries to be seen, and other people whose manners and +customs they wished to learn from personal observation. So they prepared +to continue their journey. + +Their next place of destination was Singapore. Between that city and +Bangkok there is a service of steamers each way about once a week; it is +somewhat irregular, as the movements of the ships depend more or less +upon the amount of freight offering and the facility of obtaining +cargoes. The steamers are under the Siamese flag; some of them belong to +the government, while the others are the property of Chinese or Siamese +merchants established at Bangkok. All of them are small, to make sure of +passing the bar at the mouth of the Menam, and their passenger +accommodations are rather limited. + +[Illustration: THE DOCTOR GETTING READY.] + +The distance from Bangkok to Singapore is about eight hundred miles; +and, as the ships are not built for speed, the voyage usually takes from +four to five days. Our friends engaged passage on the _Bang Yong Seng_, +and were told to be on board by seven o'clock in the morning of the day +fixed for departure. The steamer was at her dock about a mile above the +hotel, and consequently Doctor Bronson and the boys proposed to leave +the hotel soon after six o'clock, in order to be in season. When they +suggested their plan to Captain Salje, the proprietor of the +establishment, the latter laughed, and said he would have breakfast +ready for them at half-past six, and then they would have an abundance +of time. + +"How can that be?" the Doctor asked. + +"Very easy to explain," the captain responded. "The river is so narrow +that the steamer cannot turn around where she is. She backs down below +here, and does it very slowly, and you need not go to the dock at all. +You can have your baggage ready, and when we see her coming you can pull +out with the boat and drop along-side. The gangway-ladder will be down, +and you can get on board and have your baggage handed up without the +least trouble." + +This plan was quite to the taste of the party of travellers, and they +adopted it at once. It was carried out to perfection; and the boys +pronounced it much better than being obliged to breakfast at a +disagreeably early hour, and then pulling up the stream. The consul came +to see them off; and as the steamer passed the consulate, the flag of +their country was dipped in farewell honor to Doctor Bronson and his +young companions. The steamer turned a little below the consulate, and +headed her prow for the sea; and she steamed steadily onward, till at +length she left the Menam behind her and entered the waters of the Gulf +of Siam. + +The boys sat on the deck of the steamer, and watched the low coast as it +slowly receded from view. Flocks of birds filled the air, or settled on +the marshy shores, where the scattered palm-trees waved their tufted +heads. There was a faint ripple of surf breaking on the beach, or +forming in long lines where the waters were shallow. The sky was clear, +and the sun filled the atmosphere with a flood of light; while it made +the shelter of the awning indispensable to the comfort of the young +travellers. + +[Illustration: COAST OF SIAM, NEAR THE MOUTH OF THE RIVER.] + +Although the steamer was of light draught, she stirred the mud from the +bottom as she crossed the bar at the mouth of the Menam; she left a long +trail of discolored water behind her, but it disappeared as she steamed +onward and left the shores of Siam fading in the distance. While the +boys were busy with their contemplation of the scene, the Chinese +steward of the steamer came to tell them dinner was ready. They went +below, and were soon seated at the cabin table. + +[Illustration: WATER-FOWL OF SIAM.] + +The passengers were not numerous. Besides the Doctor and his young +friends, there were only two others in the cabin, and it did not take +long for them to form an acquaintance. One of the twain was a German +merchant living at Bangkok, and the other was a personage who reminded +the boys a little of their old friend, "the Mystery." He was affable, +and inclined to free conversation; and though they could not at first +make him out, they found themselves attracted towards him. + +When they went on deck after dinner, the stranger followed; and by +invitation of Doctor Bronson, he drew his chair near them. + +In the course of the rambling talk that ensued, Fred wondered if there +were any pearls in the Gulf of Siam. Frank quickly responded that it was +Ceylon, and not Siam, where the most of the pearls of commerce were to +be found. + +The remark about pearls led to a discussion of the mode of gathering +them. Very naturally something was said about the methods of going +beneath the waves of the sea. + +The stranger joined in the conversation, and it was not long before he +developed much more than a casual knowledge of the business under +consideration. + +"I may as well introduce myself," he remarked, "and then we will be able +to talk freely. I am known as Captain Johnson, and have been around the +Eastern seas for the past twenty years. I am an Englishman by birth, and +have been captain of a ship trading between London and Singapore; but at +present I am a wrecker." + +Doctor Bronson replied to this introduction by handing his own card to +Captain Johnson, and introducing the two youths by name. + +The boys showed by the expression of their faces that they were not +altogether familiar with the peculiarities of the stranger's occupation; +evidently he perceived it, for he proceeded to explain what a wrecker +was. + +"Properly speaking," said he, "a wrecker is a man who lives on a +dangerous coast, and makes a living by assisting wrecked vessels, and +saving what can be saved from their cargoes. My occupation is something +like his, but not exactly; he works above the waters, while I go below +them." + +"Go below the water to save a ship!" said Fred, in astonishment. "How +can you save a ship in that way?" + +The question led to an explanation that lasted through the entire +afternoon and evening. We will endeavor to give the substance of it, as +nearly as possible, in the words of Captain Johnson. + +"Life beneath the ocean wave," said he, after he was comfortably +balanced in his chair, "has many features of interest. In my profession +of wrecking I have seen much that does not ordinarily happen to a man; I +am sorry I cannot remember all that has come under my observation, but +perhaps it is just as well, as I might remember too much, and so weary +you." + +Frank assured him it would take a longer period than they were likely to +pass together on the ship for him to become weary of stories of the sea. +Fred echoed the remark, and thus the captain was encouraged to proceed. + +"Thanks to men of science and ingenuity," the captain continued, "we +have made great progress in going beneath the water in the last +twenty-five years. Formerly a man could only stay below as long as he +could hold his breath, and of course this prevented his descending to +any great depth. With the diving apparatus now in use he can go far +below the surface, and remain there for hours." + +[Illustration: A WRECK AMONG THE BREAKERS.] + +The boys opened their eyes very wide at this assertion, but they did not +interrupt the story by saying what they thought. + +[Illustration: PEARL-FISHER ATTACKED BY A SHARK.] + +"The fisher for pearls in the primitive way has no apparatus beyond a +stone attached to a cord, a basket slung around his neck to hold the +pearl-oysters, and a knife to detach them from the bottom, and also to +defend himself from sharks. At the moment of diving he fills his lungs +with air and grasps the cord, and as he does so the stone is thrown from +the side of the boat by his assistant. The weight of the stone carries +him down; he gathers as many oysters as he can while the air in his +lungs holds out, and then he shakes the cord as a signal to be drawn up. +Sharks abound in the regions where the pearl is found, and not +infrequently they seize the poor diver as he rises to the surface. His +only mode of escape is by rapid movement; and you can readily see that +he is at a great disadvantage, as he is out of his proper element, and +in that of the shark. + +"The diving-bell was the first invention to improve on the old process; +it consisted of a wide-mouthed bell large enough to contain one or two +men, who stood or were seated inside. If you put a tumbler into the +water with the mouth downwards, you will perceive, as you press below +the surface, that the air within keeps the water from rising." + +The boys nodded assent to the captain's remark. + +"In this way the air remains in the bell, and until it becomes foul the +divers suffer no particular inconvenience. But as soon as it has been +breathed so as to cause a sense of suffocation they must be drawn up, or +they will die. + +"Then somebody arranged an air-pump so as to connect with the bell, and +by constantly working this pump the foul air was expelled, and new air +came in to supply its place. By this process the men could remain some +time below; but they could not leave the bell, and their operations were +confined to the space covered by its mouth. It is a curious fact that +the first diving-bell was invented by a spider, and not by a man." + +"Invented by a spider!" the two boys exclaimed in a breath. + +"Yes, invented by a spider," the captain continued. + +"Why, how can that be?" Frank asked. + +[Illustration; NESTS OF THE WATER-SPIDER.] + +"The water-spider builds a house of silk in the shape of a bell, and +anchors it to the roots of the grasses that grow several feet under the +water. Having finished his dwelling, he proceeds to stock it with air. +For this purpose he comes to the surface, takes a bubble of air under +his abdomen and carries it to the house, where he releases it, and +allows it to rise into the cavity where he wants it. He repeats the +operation till he has filled it with air, and then he has a satisfactory +home for his family. + +[Illustration; DIVERS IN THEIR ARMOR.] + +"Now the diving-bell is on this principle, with the advantage of not +being stationary, and also with the greater advantage that the air can +be renewed when it becomes foul. But the modern armor dispenses with the +bell; the head of the diver is covered with an air-tight helmet with a +plate of glass in front, so that the man can see what is about him, and +the air is kept fresh by means of an air-pump and a flexible tube of +india-rubber. There are several forms of this apparatus, some of them +having a metallic knapsack, where the air is received before it goes to +the helmet, while others dispense with the knapsack, and carry the air +directly to the head of the man who is to breathe it. Sometimes, where +the depth is slight, and he is not to remain long below, the diver does +not use the helmet at all, but simply holds a tube in his mouth, through +which a stream of air is driven to him." + +Frank asked how the man wearing this armor managed to sink in the water, +and retain his perpendicular position. According to his experience, +there was a tendency of the feet to fly upwards as soon as the body was +in the water, especially where it was salt instead of fresh. + +"That is provided for," said Captain Johnson, "by giving the diver a +pair of shoes with soles of lead. They are so heavy that when he is out +of water he can lift his feet with difficulty; but when he goes below, +the specific gravity of the water makes them much lighter. He can then +step around, and at the same time his equilibrium is maintained." + +"How long can a man stay under water with the apparatus you have +described?" Fred asked. + +[Illustration: DIVERS AT WORK.] + +"From one to two hours," was the reply; "according to the depth and +condition of the water. If it is very cold, he will be chilled in a +little while, and must come up to get warm again; and if he has to hold +himself against a strong current he will find his strength leaving him, +and must make a signal to be drawn to the surface. I have been two hours +under, at a depth of eighty feet, and felt no inconvenience; but when I +came up I was not able to go down again for several hours." + +"Can you go down in the open sea in this way," said Fred, "or must you +always be where the water is quiet?" + +[Illustration: DIVING OVER THE SIDE OF A STEAMER.] + +"As to that," the captain responded, "it is impossible to answer in a +single word. The most of our operations are in rivers and harbors, or in +bays more or less shallow. Sometimes at sea it is necessary to examine +the bottom of a ship, in order to stop a leak or repair some other +damage. In such a case the ship is stopped, and a ladder is lowered near +the place to be examined; a man goes down in his submarine armor without +difficulty, and, though the water must be reasonably smooth to allow him +to do so safely, I have known it to be done when there was quite a heavy +sea on. The general rule is, that, unless the sea is smooth enough to +allow a boat to lie along side for the purpose of assisting the diver, +it is not wise to send him below. Divers are their own judges of such +matters, and will naturally refuse to descend if the risk is too great. + +"Once in awhile we have cases of diving in the open ocean. Do you +remember the loss of the steamship _Japan_, on the coast of China, in +December, 1874?" + +The boys said they had heard about it while they were in China, but +could not remember anything particular about the affair. + +"Well," continued the captain, "the _Japan_ was burnt at sea, one +hundred and thirty-five miles north-east of Hong-kong, and fifty miles +from Swatow. The nearest land was Breaker Point, twenty miles away, and +the water where the wreck sunk was twenty-three fathoms, or one hundred +and thirty-eight feet deep. The _Japan_ had about three hundred and +fifty thousand dollars in silver on board, and the underwriters at +Hong-kong who had insured it determined to make an effort for its +recovery. For this purpose they engaged Captain Roberts, who was a +well-known wrecker on the coast of China, and set him at work. + +"A schooner and a small steamer were bought, and in January, 1875, +Captain Roberts began looking for the wreck. He dragged the bed of the +ocean for four or five weeks before he found anything; but at last he +was successful, and discovered one of the paddle-wheels of the ship. It +was some time later before he found the wreck of the ship, as it proved +to have drifted eleven miles south-west of the spot where the wheel had +dropped off." + +"How could that be?" Frank exclaimed. + +"It was because the wind was blowing very strong at the time from the +north-east, and after the wheel fell off the ship was driven on before +the gale till it had burnt low enough to sink. It took from March to +July to find the wreck after the wheel was discovered, and then they +immediately began operations for getting at the sunken treasure. + +"The south-west monsoon blows from March till September, and it was only +during this monsoon that the divers could work. On the 12th of that +month the monsoon ceased, and Captain Roberts had not been able to get +at the treasure, which was contained in an iron tank in the hold of the +ship. He thought the whole enterprise would end there, and the _Japan_ +and her three hundred and fifty thousand dollars would remain +undisturbed at the bottom of the sea. It was not likely that the +underwriters would incur the expense of another expedition the following +year, when the chances of recovering anything were so doubtful. + +"The diver went down for the last time; and while he was below the crew +were making preparations to hoist anchor, and be off for Hong-kong as +soon as he rose. + +"Suddenly he signalled to be pulled up, and they hoisted away. As he +rose he held a lump of something in his hand, and passed it to Captain +Roberts, who was standing on the deck of the schooner. + +"It was a lump that looked like coal; but it was heavier than coal by a +great deal. Examination showed that it was a mass of twenty-four silver +dollars, all melted and charred together, but still distinguishable as +dollars. + +"The question was settled. The wreckers retired to Hong-kong during the +six months that the north-east monsoon blows, and in the following March +they returned to their work. In 1876 they recovered about twenty-five +thousand dollars; and in the two following years the whole of the +treasure was secured. It was one of the finest wrecking operations ever +known. And here is one of the dollars that lay for three years at the +bottom of the Pacific Ocean." + +As he spoke, Captain Johnson drew from his pocket an American +trade-dollar bearing the date 1874. It was quite black from the effect +of its long immersion in the ocean, but otherwise was as perfect as when +it came from the mint at San Francisco. The boys were greatly interested +in this curious coin, and so was Doctor Bronson. It was passed from one +to the other of the trio, and the boys were for some minutes so +thoroughly engrossed in examining it that they had no attention to +bestow on anything else. + +[Illustration: CORAL-FISHING IN THE MEDITERRANEAN.] + +Frank wished to know whether there was any coral or other curious +products of the sea where the wreck of the _Japan_ was lying at the +bottom of the ocean. + +[Illustration: THE CORAL-WORM.] + +Captain Johnson told him there was nothing of the kind in that +particular spot, but that a great deal of coral was to be found in the +tropical waters of the Far East. "The best coral," said he, "comes from +the Mediterranean; other parts of the world produce it in much larger +quantities, but it is not generally fine enough to be wrought into +jewellery, like that from the northern coast of Africa. Can you tell me +what coral is?" + +[Illustration: CUP-CORAL AND BRAIN-CORAL.] + +Frank answered that coral was a substance produced by a small insect +which works under the water, and produces a substance somewhat +resembling stone. There are many varieties of it, and the work of the +coral insect is usually in the form of branches--like a small tree +without leaves. There are also formations known as cup-coral and +brain-coral, on account of their shape and general appearance. + +Fred said he had read somewhere that in the Pacific Ocean there were +islands of solid coral; and there were also reefs surrounding islands +like great walls. Some of these walls were hundreds of miles in extent, +and kept ships from approaching the land. + +"Can you tell me what an atoll is?" said the captain, with a smile. + +The boys had both heard of an atoll, but at the moment they were unable +to describe it. So the captain came to their relief, and explained it to +them. + +"An atoll," said he, "is a circular island or reef, with an opening on +one side, with water that is usually deep enough for the largest ships +to enter. The strip of land or coral is a few hundred yards wide, and +often covered with palm and other trees; and there are sometimes +hundreds of atolls in a single group. They vary in size from half a mile +to forty or fifty miles in diameter, and the lake or lagoon inside is +from one to four hundred feet in depth. Ships may sail around in these +lagoons, and they often abound in fish of many varieties. The contrast +between the rough ocean outside and the calm lake within is very +impressive, and will never be forgotten by one who has observed it." + +[Illustration: AN ATOLL IN THIS PACIFIC OCEAN.] + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +LIGHT UNDER WATER.--PEARL-FISHING AND TURTLE-HUNTING. + + +Frank was curious to know how it was possible to see under water. He +thought it would be dark at great depths, and, if so, it would be +impossible to do anything there on account of the darkness. Lamps could +not be made to burn under water, and until this was done the explorers +of the sea could not make much progress. + +Captain Johnson replied that Frank's theory was correct. As the diver +goes down the light becomes more and more dim, but the dimness or the +absence of it depends upon the clearness of the water where he is at +work. If the water is clear and the sunlight good, there is no trouble +about seeing at any depth to which a diver may safely descend. In a +stream like the Mississippi or the Missouri river it will be darker at +ten feet deep than in the Mediterranean at a hundred. + +"But science has come to our aid," he continued, "by giving us the +electric light. There is one form of it that can burn in a vacuum--in +fact, it needs a vacuum for its proper working. Now all you have to do +is to insulate the wires leading to the glass globe that holds the +light, and you can carry it under the water without the least trouble. + +"For ordinary purposes there is a very simple arrangement, which +consists of a box with a plate of glass in the bottom. You put this in +the water, so that the glass is a few inches below the surface, and then +you can see very clearly, where the depth is not too great. Fishermen in +some parts of the world have something of the same nature, which they +call a telescope; it is nothing but a tube of wood four or five feet +long, and six inches in diameter, and with the top so arranged that when +the eye is put against it there can be no entrance of light at that end +of the tube. When a man wishes to examine the bottom of the sea where he +is fishing, he sinks this tube and looks through it. He can make out +many objects that are altogether invisible under ordinary circumstances, +and can frequently discover the whereabouts of a school of fish that +might otherwise escape him. + +[Illustration: SUBMARINE OBSERVATIONS.] + +"Sometimes a man who is using one of these aids to marine observation +finds himself the object of attentions he would gladly avoid. A friend +of mine was once looking through a box from the side of a boat, when a +large sawfish came from below and thrust his snout through the glass. A +shark followed the sawfish, and was evidently anxious for a fight, and +the two swum off together, to the satisfaction of my friend. What made +the matter more exciting was that an expert swimmer had just dived from +the boat, and gone down to take a survey of the coral-trees that grew on +the bottom. He came up safe and undisturbed, and the probabilities are +that the sawfish and shark had been too busy over each other and the +glass-bottomed box to pay any attention to such an insignificant object +as a man swimming near them. + +[Illustration: THE BELLOWS-FISH, OR ANGLER.] + +"The bottom of the sea abounds in many curious things that we never see +at the surface, unless they are brought there. There is a fish known as +the _Lophius_, or bellows-fish; he is also called 'the angler,' from his +artistic way of supplying himself with food. He seems to be nearly all +mouth, and reminds you of the dog that could walk down his own throat +without touching the sides. He has a long rod projecting from the middle +of his forehead, and at the end of it there is a lump of flesh, like a +morsel of beef. This rod is movable; and, as he lies flat on the mud, he +spreads his great mouth open like a trap. Then he angles, or fishes, +with his rod, moving it up and down and on both sides, so as to attract +fish or crabs, or anything else that is edible. When they come within +reach of his capacious jaws he closes on his prey, and goes on with his +fishing as unconcerned as a man who has caught a small trout, and stowed +it away in his basket." + +The boys laughed at the idea of an angling fish, and wondered how he +managed to get along when he had lost his bait by any accident. The +captain was unable to tell them, as he had never seen a bellows-fish +that had suffered such a misfortune. + +[Illustration: A CURIOUS HOME.] + +"You see thousands of crabs and lobsters and other creeping things at +the bottom of the sea," the captain continued; "there is one kind of +crab that loves to live in a shell which is not his own, at any rate not +the one he was born to. They crawl around with these shells, never +daring to leave them for fear some other crab will happen along and take +possession. Sometimes two of them will fight for a shell, and they tear +away each other's claws and commit other havoc before the battle is +over. Generally the one in the shell has the best of it, as he is on the +defensive, and the house in which he is lodged is a good protection. One +day I found one of these crabs in the bowl of a tobacco-pipe that had +the stem broken short off, and it was very funny to see him move around +with this awkward covering. It was not as convenient as the sea-shells +in which his brethren were quartered, and he seemed to understand it, as +he changed to an empty shell as soon as one was placed near him, and he +was left undisturbed. + +[Illustration: CRABS IN A QUARREL.] + +"These crabs are amphibious, and seem equally at home above or under the +water. They are very quarrelsome, and when put together in a box proceed +to eat each other up without the least hesitation. I once put a dozen of +them together, and in two days there was only one left; he was large, +and had a good appetite, as he left nothing but shells and crushed claws +to tell what had become of his comrades. + +"But we have been so long beneath the surface that we must go above to +breathe. As we come up we must be careful not to touch one of those long +filaments hanging down from the _Physalia_ that has spread its sail to +the wind. If we do, we shall feel a sharp sting that will last us for +some time." + +Frank inquired what the _Physalia_ was. + +"You have seen it very often at sea," said Captain Johnson, "and +probably you knew it as a Portuguese man-of-war." + +"Oh, certainly," Frank answered. "We saw thousands and thousands of them +on the Pacific Ocean when we were coming from San Francisco, and +sometimes the water was covered with them for hours at a time. And they +looked very pretty, with their little sails spread to catch the wind." + +"What you saw above the surface was not really a sail," the captain +replied, "but a little sack containing air. The _Physalia_ has the power +of contracting this sack, so that it can sink beneath the waves for +protection against a storm or to avoid other dangers. The use of the +long filaments is not well understood; but they are evidently for +purposes of defence, as each of them contains a sting that has anything +but an agreeable effect on the swimmer who comes in contact with it." + +Fred asked if the _Physalia_ was anything like the sea-anemone which he +had seen in Aquarius, and had admired greatly on account of its +beautiful colors. + +"How many colors of it do you think you have seen?" the captain asked, +in reply. + +[Illustration: SEA-ANEMONES.] + +Fred could not say positively, but he thought he had seen not less than +three or four. + +"They are of every color imaginable," responded Captain Johnson; "we +find them white, with a delicate shading of pearl, and we have them in +gray, pink, purple, yellow, orange, lilac, green, and blue. Sometimes a +single specimen will have half a dozen colors in his composition, and +you could easily imagine he had borrowed all the hues of the rainbow in +getting himself up to a satisfactory complexion. They have the +properties of both animal and vegetable, and in this particular they +resemble the sponge and other marine productions. If a part of the +sea-anemone is destroyed, it is reproduced; and if one of them is torn +or cut into several pieces, each piece converts itself into a perfect +anemone." + +"Is the sponge an animal?" Frank asked of the captain. "You said +something about the sea-anemone having animal and vegetable properties +like the sponge. I always supposed the sponge was a vegetable growing at +the bottom of the sea, and had nothing of the animal about it." + +"Scientific men have long been in dispute on this subject," was the +reply; "and while some assign the sponge to the vegetable kingdom, +others class it with the animal. The latest authorities favor the theory +that the sponge is an animal, and all agree that it occupies a middle +ground between the two forms of life. + +[Illustration: THE SPONGE AT HOME.] + +"It is fastened to a rock, or to the hard bottom of the part of the sea +where it grows, and it has no power of moving from one place to another. +Water is continually absorbed into the sponge, just as we absorb air by +breathing; and when the food and air contained in the water have served +their purpose, the residue is thrown off. + +"The sponge has a skeleton that must be dissolved and washed away before +the article is of use. Various processes are used to remove the +skeleton--according to the character of the sponge and the purposes for +which it is designed. The finest are washed repeatedly in water, and in +a weak solution of acid, and are then bleached in a bath of diluted +soda. These fine sponges come from Syria, and from the Greek islands of +the Mediterranean; the coarse sponges, used for washing carriages and +similar purposes, come from the West Indies, and also from the East; and +when first taken from the sea they have a sickening odor, like flesh +that is just beginning to decay. This odor becomes stronger and +stronger, and finally resembles exactly that which arises from a +putrefying body. During this process of decomposition they are buried in +the sand, and are afterwards submitted to the action of the waves to +wash away the impurities that the decay has left." + +One of the boys asked how sponges were obtained, and at what depths of +water they were to be found. + +[Illustration: HOW SPONGES ARE SPEARED.] + +The captain explained that they were found at all depths, from a few +feet to two or three hundred. The most of them were taken from shoals +and reefs, where they were ten or twenty feet below the surface, as they +could not get a good supply of light in deeper water. In the East they +are generally taken by diving, after the primitive fashion; while in the +West Indies they are speared from boats. + +"But we started out to talk about pearls," said Captain Johnson, "and we +have wandered off to several other things. Suppose we go back to pearls, +and see what we can ascertain about them." + +The boys promptly agreed to this; and Frank was evidently determined to +begin at the beginning, as he referred to the pearl which Cleopatra was +said to have dissolved in vinegar, so that she might swallow a more +costly drink than had ever been known to anybody else. + +"That was more than eighteen hundred years ago," said Fred, "and perhaps +the incident never happened." + +[Illustration: CLEOPATRA DISSOLVING THE PEARL.] + +Captain Johnson was uncertain about it, as he said he had no documentary +proof sufficient to convince an ordinary court of law that dissolved +pearls were a fashionable beverage in the days of Antony and Cleopatra. +"However," he said, "the pearl can be dissolved in strong vinegar; and +this fact is sufficient to establish the possibility of the beautiful +Queen of Egypt indulging in the freak that is attributed to her. + +"Pearls have been known and valued for a great many hundred years. They +are mentioned in the Bible, and in the time of Job they were great +price. The Greeks and Romans had great numbers of pearls, and some of +the wealthy citizens were in the habit of wearing them on their shoes. +In all ages they have been associated with wealth, and probably they +will continue to be for ages to come. + +[Illustration: PEARL-BEARING SHELLS.] + +"The oyster that produces them is not good to eat; probably he thinks he +has quite enough to do to make pearls, without being devoured after he +has performed that noble duty. They are found in various parts of the +world; but the best pearls have always come from the East: they are +valuable in proportion as they possess that peculiar lustre known as +'water,' which it is impossible to describe in words. There are several +varieties of the pearl-oyster, but the best of them is of a nearly +circular form, and from four to eight inches in diameter. Here is a +picture of one of these shells, with a single pearl adhering to it. The +outside of the shell is rough, and has a series of ridges that extend +from the valve to the edge. The young oysters rarely contain pearls; and +the divers understand this so well that, when they find smooth-shelled +and small oysters in their baskets, they throw them back into the sea. +In the haste of gathering them from the rocky bottom, they have no time +to select with care. + +"The pearl is nothing more nor less than carbonate of lime, secreted by +the oyster, and hardened after a process which he carefully keeps to +himself. It was for a long time supposed that the pearl was formed by +the attempt of the oyster to cover a grain of sand with a smooth +substance, so that it would not be inconvenient to him. It was believed +that the sand was rolled in by the action of the waves while the oyster +had his mouth open; and, as he could not expel it, he proceeded to cover +it up. Many persons adhere to this theory still; but the fact that many +pearls have been sawed open and found not to contain the least particle +of sand or other impurity, is calculated to throw doubt upon it. The +latter belief is, that the pearl is the result of a disease in the +oyster, just as a tumor is the result of disease in man. + +"In China and Japan the natives have long followed the practice of +putting small beads of porcelain inside the oyster, and then returning +him to the water, where he is left undisturbed for three or four years. +At the end of that time he is taken up and opened, and the beads are +found to be coated with the pearly substance. They also have the trick +of putting little images or idols into the oyster, and in course of time +these become coated over in the manner I have described. You can see +some of the results of these processes by looking at the two open shells +on the right of the picture." + +Frank wished to know the different sizes of pearls and their values. + +[Illustration: SIZES OF PEARLS.] + +"As to that," said the captain, "your question is not an easy one to +answer. Some pearls are so small as to be hardly visible to the eye; and +of course they are of no value when you cannot see them. They are only +useful when large enough to be strung on a necklace, or otherwise set as +jewellery. The largest pearls are apocryphal; by this I mean that no +person of modern times has seen some that are famous in history, and +there are doubts that they ever existed. It is said that the pearl which +Cleopatra drank to the health of Mark Antony was worth $375,000 of our +money; and, if so, it must have been of great size. Pearls have been +reported to exist that were nearly two inches long by one and a quarter +in diameter, and weighed fifty-five carats, or two hundred and twenty +grains. + +"The largest that we know of at the present time do not exceed thirty +carats, or one hundred and twenty grains. There is one among the +crown-jewels of Portugal weighing twenty-five carats; and there is said +to be one of twenty-seven carats in the hands of a Russian merchant in +Moscow. It is safe to say that there are not two dozen pearls known to +exist now that weigh over twenty carats, or eighty grains. + +"The value of a pearl is generally estimated like that of a diamond--by +the multiplication of the square of its weight. A pearl of one carat is +held to be worth about $16; and to get the value of a pearl of two +carats we multiply two by two, and the product by $16, and we get $64. +In the same way the value of a pearl of three carats would be $144, and +so on for any weight we happen to have. + +[Illustration: PEARL-FISHERY AT BAHREIN.] + +"One of the favorite fishing-grounds for pearls is at Bahrein, on the +Persian Gulf. The divers bring in the oysters from the fishing-banks in +the gulf, and pile them on the shore in great heaps. Here they lie till +they are rotted; and the stench that arises is enough to turn any +inexperienced stomach. When the substance of the oyster is quite +decomposed, the shells are opened, and the mass of matter they contain +is thrown into tubs and washed with water. It is necessary to pass the +pulp very carefully through the fingers for fear that some of the pearls +will be lost, and consequently the washing is very slow. When a pearl +beyond a certain size is found, the washer receives a handsome present; +but below the regulation figure he gets nothing but his daily wages. +Large pearls are very rare, and consequently the chances that a +pearl-washer will make a fortune by a lucky find are exceedingly small. + +[Illustration: PERSIAN GULF DIVER.] + +"There is a belief quite current through the East that the pearl is a +drop of rain-water which has fallen into the shell of the oyster when he +was at the surface, and been afterwards hardened. This is a pretty bit +of sentiment; but as the oyster never goes to the surface unless he is +carried there, the story does not have much foundation to rest upon." + +"If the pearl is so valuable, and so difficult to get, I should think +there would be men who would try to imitate it," Frank remarked. + +"You are quite right," was the reply; "and men have tried a great many +times to make false pearls." + +"Have they succeeded?" + +"Partially; but not altogether. No counterfeit pearl has yet been made +that could pass all the tests of the genuine; but their lustre is quite +equal, sometimes, to the best pearls of Ceylon, and they can be made to +deceive anybody but an expert." + +"How do they make them?" + +"The best of the false pearls," said the captain, "are made by what is +known as Jaquin's process. + +"M. Jaquin was a manufacturer of beads in France, and he spent a great +deal of time and money in trying to make his beads better than any other +man's. One day he was walking in his garden, and observed a remarkable +silvery lustre on some water in a basin. It instantly occurred to him +that if he could put that lustre on his beads, he would have something +decidedly new. + +"So he called his old servant, and asked what had been in the water. She +answered that it was nothing but some little fish called _ablettes_, +that had been crushed in the basin, and she had neglected to throw the +water out. + +[Illustration: M. JAQUIN'S EXPERIMENT.] + +"M. Jaquin was very glad, for once, that she had neglected her duty. He +began experimenting with the scales of the ablette, or bleak, a little +fish about the size of a sardine, and very abundant in certain parts of +Europe. After several trials he adopted the plan of washing the scales +several times in water, and saving the sediment that gathered at the +bottom of the basin. This was about the consistency of oil, and had the +lustre he desired. Next, he blew some beads of very thin glass, and +after coating the inside of a bead with this substance, he filled it up +with wax, so as to give it solidity. Thus the fish-scales gave the +lustre, the glass gave the polish and brilliancy that we find on the +genuine pearl, and the wax furnished a solid backing to the thin glass. +This is the process of making false pearls; and it is fortunate that the +bleak is very abundant, or he would run the risk of extermination. + +[Illustration: THE BLEAK.] + +"Is the manufacture of false pearls so great as that?" Fred inquired. + +"It is pretty extensive," was the captain's response, "but not +enormously so. The fact is, it requires more than a thousand of these +little fish to make an ounce of the 'essence d'orient,' as the French +call it, or essence of pearl. Other substances have been tried, in the +hope of obtaining the same result for a smaller outlay, but none of them +have been entirely successful. There is--" + +The conversation was interrupted at this moment by a call from the +Doctor, who was sitting near the rail, and happened to be looking at the +sea. The rest of the party rushed to his side, and their eyes followed +the direction indicated by his finger. + +[Illustration: THE DOCTOR'S DISCOVERY.] + +The object that attracted his attention was an enormous turtle not more +than ten yards away. He appeared to be asleep, as he was lying +perfectly still, and did not seem aware that a ship was near him. +Suddenly he roused himself, and raised his head an instant above the +surface to take a survey of the situation. Evidently he scented danger, +as he lost no time in diving below, where the ship was not likely to +follow him. + +Pearls were dropped from the conversation, and turtles took their place. +As the turtle is a product of the sea, the subject was not likely to be +an unknown one to Captain Johnson. + +"There are several varieties of the marine turtle," said the captain, +"and more of the land-turtle, or tortoise; as we are at sea, and engaged +on matters connected with salt-water, we will leave the occupant of the +land quite out of consideration. His marine brother has fins instead of +feet, and he rarely goes on shore except in the breeding-season. Some of +the sea-turtles live entirely on vegetable food, while others devour +shell-fish and other living things; the flesh of the vegetable-feeders +is delicious, while that of the animal-feeders is not. They grow to a +great size when compared with the land-turtle: the green turtle that +makes such excellent soup is frequently five feet long, and weighs five +or six hundred pounds; and the loggerhead-turtle sometimes reaches a +weight of one thousand five hundred pounds and more." + +"Enough to feed a great many people," Frank remarked. + +"Unfortunately," the captain continued, "a great many people would not +eat his flesh. The green-turtle feeds on sea-weed, and is very choice +about what he eats, and therefore his flesh is highly esteemed. The +loggerhead-turtle is much more common than the green one, but he eats +shell-fish of all the sorts he can crush in his powerful jaws. The flesh +of the young turtles of this variety is sometimes eaten, but the old +ones are so tough and musky that a man must needs be very hungry to be +able to eat them. Even their eggs are too strong of musk to be edible, +and the shell is of little value; about the only use that can be made of +the loggerhead-turtle is to try out the large quantities of oil that he +contains. + +"The flesh of the turtle you just saw is not of much consequence, for +the same reason. He is more valuable for his shell, which forms the +turtle, or tortoise, shell of commerce." + +"I remember," said Fred, "that we saw a great deal of shell at Nagasaki, +in Japan, that had been wrought into many beautiful forms. The Japanese +are very skilful in this kind of work, and so are the Chinese." + +"You will see more tortoise-shell," was the reply, "when you get to +Singapore. A great deal of the shell comes there for a market from all +parts of the Eastern Archipelago." + +Frank asked how the turtle was caught, when he spent so much time in the +water, and was so far away from land. + +"He is caught," said the captain, "in two or three ways. He sleeps on +the surface of the water, and, when thus off his guard, he can be easily +approached. A boat steals quietly up to him, and, before he is aware +what is happening, he is a prisoner. + +[Illustration: THE TURTLE AT HOME.] + +"Turtles are captured at night, when they go on shore to lay their eggs. +They generally select a moonlight night for this purpose, and a smooth +sandy beach; they dig holes in the sand, where they deposit their eggs, +and leave them to be hatched by the heat of the sun. When they are on +shore for this purpose, the hunters come upon them; the turtle cannot +move rapidly on the sand, and is easily overtaken. The hunters turn the +poor turtles on their backs, and then leave them till the next day, when +they come and remove them." + +"I have heard," said one of the boys, "that when a turtle is placed on +his back he cannot turn over and put himself right side up." + +"That is quite correct, and a knowledge of this peculiarity is of great +assistance to the turtle-hunters. But there is another way of catching +the turtle that will strike you as the most curious of all." + +"What is that?" + +"It is by fishing with the _Remora_." + +"And what is the remora?" + +"It is a fish found in tropical waters, both in the East and West +Indies. Its popular name is 'the sucking-fish,' and it is so called on +account of a disk on its head, by which it can attach itself to a smooth +surface, like the side of a shark, a ship, or the shell of a turtle. The +disk is very much like the soft leather 'suckers' made by school boys, +and when the fish has attached himself, you can pull him to pieces +rather than induce him to release his hold. + +"The turtle-hunters go out in a boat and carry several of these fishes +in a tub. When they see a turtle they get as near to him as they can, +and send a sucker after him. The fish is held by a ring on his tail, +attached to a stout cord; he swims towards the turtle and fastens on his +shell, and then the fish and turtle are hauled in together. In the air +the remora loosens his hold, and is dropped back into the tub, to wait +till he is wanted again." + +The boys laughed at this comical way of fishing. Fred wondered if the +remora was able to understand the joke, and comprehend the value of his +services to mankind. Frank said he would like to know what the turtles +thought of the business, and whether they had any respect for a parasite +that came uninvited and caused them to be captured. + +[Illustration: TURTLE-HUNTING.] + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +INCIDENTS OF A SEA-VOYAGE.--SINGAPORE. + + +The voyage from Bangkok to Singapore was without any features of special +interest. The Gulf of Siam presented its accustomed calmness, and at +times the air was so still that there was not wind enough for proper +ventilation of the ship. Our friends slept on deck, as the cabin was +altogether too hot for comfort; they only went below to dress and take +their meals and baths, and to escape from the showers that were of daily +occurrence. In the daytime, when the heavy sprinklings came on, the boys +indulged in baths of the kind they enjoyed on the _Danube_, and they +were generally pleased at the announcement of an approaching shower. But +at night, when they were comfortably sleeping, they did not relish a +rude awakening, accompanied with the suggestion that they had better go +below till the rain was over. The change from the cool deck to the +stifling cabin was the reverse of enjoyable; Fred remarked that the only +good thing about it was that it made them appreciate the deck all the +more when the rain was over, and they could come again to the open air. + +About thirty miles from Singapore they saw an overturned boat, and as +they neared it two natives were perceived clinging to the wreck. A boat +was lowered and sent to rescue them, and in a short time the poor +fellows were safe on the steamer's deck. They said their craft was upset +by a squall on the previous evening, and for twenty hours they had been +holding on, with nothing to eat or drink, under the broiling heat of a +tropical sun. They were nearly exhausted with hunger and thirst, and +would have fallen off and died in a few hours if they had not been +rescued. Frank was the first to discover the overturned boat, and was +naturally proud of having been in some way the means of saving these +unhappy Malays from death. He wanted to talk with the men, and hear +their story; but as their knowledge of English was no better than his of +Malay, he was compelled to abandon the idea. + +The occurrence called to the Doctor's recollection an incident of his +first experience of the sea, when he was spending the summer at a small +seaport town. He was fond of fishing, and hardly a day passed that he +did not go out on the Atlantic in pursuit of his favorite sport. + +"One afternoon," said he, "there were a dozen or more boats outside, +when a sudden squall came up that caused us to seek the harbor as fast +as possible. Every one steered for home, and most of us reached the +entrance of the port before the fury of the squall broke upon us. The +rain was so thick that we could not see a quarter of a mile off; we +could not tell whether any of the boats were capsized or not; and if it +had not been that a great rock just by the entrance loomed up, and made +a fine landmark, we could not have found our way inside. One after +another the boats came in, with the exception of one that had ventured +farther than the rest, and was a good distance off the coast when the +squall came up. + +"It was no use going to look for her that afternoon, as the squall +continued till after dark, and raised quite a sea outside. There were +only two persons on board the boat; they were a gentleman and his wife, +who had come from the city to spend the summer, and had hired the boat +for their own use and pleasure. The gentleman understood the management +of his craft in fine weather, but nobody could say if he knew how to +control it in a squall. So we passed the night very anxiously, and, as +soon as the morning light permitted, several of us went out to search +for the missing ones. + +"Nothing could be seen. We sailed up and down along the coast, and out +on the water for several miles, but all to no purpose. With heavy hearts +we returned to port, and concluded that it was idle to hope that the +missing persons whom we sought would ever be heard of again. + +"In the afternoon I went with a young boatman in a skiff to try for fish +a little way outside the rock that formed the headland I mentioned. +While I was fishing, the boatman was looking around, and suddenly +discovered a mass of something on the beach. + +"'Perhaps it may be the wreck of the missing boat,' I remarked. 'Let us +go and see.' + +[Illustration: THE RESCUE.] + +"We started on the instant. As we approached the beach I could see +something like a human form, and told the man to pull with all his +might. He did so; and the instant the boat grounded on the sand, he +sprung ashore and drew a flask from his pocket. In half a minute he was +supporting the lifeless form of a woman, and holding the flask to her +lips. + +"We could hardly tell at first whether she was alive or not. In a +little while the draught from the flask revived her, but it was some +time before she was able to speak. We wrapped her in our spare clothing, +and carried her to the boat; and then we rowed home as fast as we could, +so as to call in the aid of the doctor. + +[Illustration: ON A FRAIL RAFT.] + +"Nothing could be seen to show what had become of the man. When the lady +recovered, she told us that when the squall struck the boat it was +instantly capsized; they managed to make a sort of raft out of the sail +and mast, but it was only sufficient to support her alone. Her husband +remained in the water, clinging to the raft and swimming, while she was +in a half-fainting condition all through the night. She remembered how +the waves rolled around them, how the moon rose up out of the waters, +and how the birds flew near them, as if wondering what they were. Then +she thought she could see the great rock at the entrance of the harbor, +and then--she remembered nothing more till we rescued her on the beach +where the waves had washed her. + +"What became of her husband we never ascertained; but undoubtedly he +was weak from exhaustion, and was unable to cling to the raft till it +reached the shore. He probably loosened his hold, and sunk in the sea +about the time his wife thought she discovered the rock. + +"The lady remained in the village till she was able to return to her +friends in the city. She never came back to that place; and the accident +cast a gloom over the visitors, from which they did not recover for the +rest of the season." + +[Illustration: GULF-WEED.] + +As they neared the Straits of Malacca, the steamer passed great masses +of a yellowish plant floating on the water. It bore an abundance of +berries of the same general color as the plant, and they glistened +brightly in sunshine as they lay close to the surface. The Doctor told +the boys that this plant was identical with one that grows in the +Caribbean Sea, and is borne northward in great quantities by the current +of the Gulf Stream. On the Atlantic it is known as "gulf-weed;" it grows +only in tropical regions, and the berries upon the plant are hollow, +and serve as so many air-bladders to keep the plant afloat. + +[Illustration: HAUNTS OF THE SEA-BIRDS.] + +As they neared Singapore, they came in sight of some rocky islands, +round which the sea-birds were flying in dense masses. Then other and +larger islands, covered with verdure, rose above the horizon to the +southward; and, finally, the coast of Malacca and the shores of the +Island of Singapore filled the background of the picture before them. +Palm-trees waved in the breeze, and, if there had been nothing else to +indicate it, these trees alone would have told the travellers they were +well down in the tropics. + +The activity of commerce through the Straits of Malacca, and thence +onwards to the Farther East, was indicated as our friends approached +Singapore. Within a few miles of that port, they met a steamer bound for +China; while ahead of them was the smoke of another that had just come +from that distant land. As they entered the harbor they met a steamer +heading southward for Java; and as they dropped anchor they saw another +coming in just behind them. It was the French Mail Packet from Europe, +which would halt a day at Singapore, and then continue her voyage to +Hong-kong and Shanghai. + +The Doctor had made a close calculation concerning their movements, as +the French steamer that arrived almost simultaneously with them was the +bearer of a dozen letters for the wandering trio. So regular is the +mail-service to the Far East, that a traveller who takes the trouble to +study the time-tables and arrange his route beforehand, can have his +letters reach him at any designated point. + +[Illustration: IN THE HARBOR.] + +The harbor presented a picture of animation as they came to anchor. +Ships and boats were sailing in and out; steam-tugs were puffing +noisily around; and, as they swung to their moorings, the official boat +of the quarantine-officer passed them on its way to the French packet. +Very soon the steamer was surrounded by a group of native boats, and a +lively bargaining began for the transportation of the party to the +shore. In the Far East the steamers have no concern with the passenger +beyond carrying him from port to port; he must land and embark at his +own expense, and very often the boatmen have things pretty much in their +own way. In Japan and China they are regulated and restrained by law; +but in Singapore and some other Eastern ports they do pretty much as +they please. + +[Illustration: BOATMEN AT SINGAPORE.] + +Frank said that the rapacity of the boatmen of Singapore reminded him of +the hackmen of New York; and he began to feel that he was not so far +from home after all. It required half an hour of negotiation to make an +arrangement that was at all reasonable, as the boatmen had evidently +formed an association for mutual advantage; and all efforts that the +Doctor made to rouse them to competition were of no use. It was finally +settled that for a dollar each our friends were to be carried to the +shore, and their baggage taken to the hotel, which was not more than a +hundred yards from the landing-place. + +The hotel was a large structure of one story in height, with broad +verandas, where one could sit and enjoy the breeze that generally blows +in the afternoon. Singapore is only one degree and twenty minutes north +of the equator--eighty miles--and consequently any one who goes there +must expect to find a climate of a most tropical character. +Longitudinally it is almost exactly on the opposite side of the earth +from New York; and this fact gave rise to some interesting comments by +Fred and Frank. + +"It is sunset now," said Frank, as they went on shore, "and it is +sunrise in New York." + +"Yes," answered Fred; "and about the time we are going to bed our +friends will be finishing breakfast." + +"While we are taking our noonday rest to-morrow they will be sleeping +soundly, as it will be midnight with them." + +"One question occurs to me," said Frank; "it is sunset in Singapore, and +it is morning with our friends at home. Now I want to know if it is this +morning, or to-morrow morning with them?" + +Fred could not tell, and so the matter was referred to the Doctor as +soon as he was at leisure. + +"The scientific explanation of the subject," said Doctor Bronson as he +dropped into a chair, "is too long for us to take up in detail. The +earth moves on its axis, so that the sun rises, or appears to rise, in +the east, and to set in the west. An easterly place gets the sun +earlier than a westerly one, and consequently its day begins earlier. +For instance, the sun rises in New York an hour and five minutes earlier +than it rises in St. Louis; and, therefore, when it is noon in New York, +it is only five minutes of eleven in the forenoon at St. Louis by New +York time. For nautical purposes most nations take the time of +Greenwich, near London, as the basis of calculation; and consequently +the time of any given place is said to be earlier or later than that of +Greenwich, according as the place is east or west of that city. The hour +of Singapore is seven hours earlier than that of Greenwich, as it gets +the sun in the east seven hours before Greenwich; New York gets it five +hours later than Greenwich--four hours and fifty-six minutes is the +exact difference; and when it is noon in New York, it is five o'clock in +the afternoon at Greenwich. + +"We had sunrise in Singapore twelve hours before our friends had it at +home; so that, when our day is ending, theirs is just beginning. I will +show you, in a practical way, the difference in time between New York +and Singapore. I am about to send a cablegram announcing our arrival, +and it may possibly get to New York ahead of the time of its departure +from here." + +The Doctor and the boys went to the telegraph-office, and sent a +despatch to let their friends know of their safe arrival from Siam. As +the tolls were at the rate of two dollars and forty cents a word, they +confined the message to a single word in addition to the address. +Previous to leaving home the Doctor had arranged a code or cipher, by +which one word could convey a great deal of information. Persons who +have occasion to use the Atlantic or other telegraph cables to any +extent make use of private codes, and thereby save a great deal of +expense. They subsequently learned that their message went from +Singapore to New York in nine hours, and therefore reached its +destination three hours before they sent it. + +The wind, which had been blowing hard during the afternoon, fell off +soon after sunset, and the boys found that the nights of Singapore were +as warm as those of Bangkok. The arrangement of the rooms indicated that +Singapore was anything but a cool place; but, on the whole, it was not +disagreeable, as the cool breeze in the afternoon was quite refreshing, +and made the atmosphere clear and pure. + +Our friends slept well on their first night in Singapore, and were up in +good season in the morning to begin their round of sight-seeing. The +Doctor had some business to transact at a banking-house in the city, and +so it was arranged that they would devote the time between breakfast +and business hours in a stroll along the esplanade and through the +native part of the place. + +[Illustration: A CHINESE CONTRACTOR.] + +The boys were somewhat surprised at the many races and tribes of men +they encountered in their morning walk. They met scores on scores of +Chinese; and they were not ten yards from the door of the hotel before +they were accosted by a Chinese contractor, who was ready to undertake +to show them the place, furnish them with a carriage, buy or sell +whatever they wanted, from a needle up to a steamship, or provide them +with servants, tailors, or any other kind of assistance they might need +during their stay. He was lightly clad, in consequence of the heat of +Singapore, and he carried a fan which he kept in constant motion while +proposing his services. Singapore is said to contain from eighty to one +hundred thousand Chinese, and they are found in all classes of business. +There are Chinese tailors and shoemakers, Chinese peddlers and +merchants, Chinese book-keepers and managers for the large +establishments where trade is conducted by wholesale, Chinese servants +of both sexes and all ages, and Chinese of all kinds in addition to the +foregoing. The industry of the race is as marked at Singapore as in +Canton or San Francisco; and though always desirous of large profits, if +they can be obtained, they will put up with very small compensation when +a large one is not to be had. + +[Illustration: CHINESE TAILORS AT SINGAPORE.] + +The door of a tailor's shop stood open, and our friends gave a glance at +its interior. The arrangements were very simple. There was a long table +covered with a straw mat, on which the material was placed to be cut, +and behind this table several men were at work. Frank made a note of the +fact that a Chinese tailor makes his stitches by pushing the needle from +instead of towards him, and that in Singapore, at least, they do not +cover their own bodies to any extent while making clothing for other +people. The heads of these tailoring establishments are very industrious +in looking for customers, and there was hardly an hour in the day that +our friends were not accosted with proposals to make clothing for them +at astonishingly low rates. Singapore is a free port, and the great +competition in trade has brought the prices down to the lowest figure. +For eight dollars each they were accommodated with entire suits of blue +serge of good quality; and when the Doctor expressed some hesitation at +giving the order, through fear that the cutting and fit might be at +fault, the tailor promptly said, "No fitee, no payee." The measures were +taken, and on the following morning the clothes were delivered, and +found entirely satisfactory. + +The Chinese are more numerous at Singapore than any other race. Next to +them come the Malays, of whom there are several varieties: they are as +devoid of clothing as the Chinese workmen, the entire garments of many +of them consisting of a cloth around the loins. Some of them wear +turbans, and occasionally the turban seems larger than the man, as it +consists of several yards of muslin wound loosely around the head, till +it forms a great ball. The body of the wearer will be small, and without +an ounce of extra flesh; and Fred remarked that it seemed as though the +turban would tip the man over, and compel him to walk on his head. + +In their walk the boys saw a group of wild-looking men with woolly hair, +and with skins as dark as those of the African negroes, but without the +thick lips which are supposed to indicate the negro race. The Doctor was +unable to tell the name of this people, and the question was referred to +an Englishman whom they happened to meet. + +"You mean those people over there?" said the Englishman, as he pointed +with his finger to the group our friends had been observing. + +The Doctor assented. + +"Oh! they are Jacoons," was the reply. "They come from the province of +Johore." + +[Illustration: A GROUP OF JACOONS.] + +Further questioning elicited the information that the Jacoons were a +primitive race of men who lived in the forests of Johore, and are +popularly supposed to dwell in trees, and to subsist on fruits and nuts. +Johore is a province on the main-land of the Malay peninsula, and +separated from the island of Singapore by a narrow strait of water. The +chief of this province is a man of superior intelligence, and lives on +friendly terms with his English neighbors. Since the English settled at +Singapore, he has established saw-mills, and made a handsome revenue +from the sale of lumber; and he has opened up his territory to +settlement by Chinese and other agriculturists. The Jacoons are supposed +to be the original inhabitants; they have as little as possible to do +with the Malays, and are quite distinct from them in language and +features. They are a peaceful people with few wants, and, as the country +produces abundantly, they have little occasion to wear themselves out +with hard work. + +Walking about the streets, or sitting in the shade of the numerous +trees, were a few Parsees with their rimless hats, and wearing garments +that were more than half European in pattern. They are called sometimes +the Jews of the East, from their remarkable shrewdness in business, and +their steady progress in the direction of wealth; they are said to be +able to accumulate money under very discouraging circumstances, and it +has been remarked that a Parsee will grow rich where any other man in +the world would starve. Some branches of trade in the East are almost +monopolized by the Parsees. A single Parsee house has more than half of +the Chinese opium trade in its hands, and has grown enormously rich, +while its competitors have lost money. Like the Jews, to whom they are +sometimes compared, the Parsees have no country they can call their own. +They came originally from Persia, and settled in the North of India, +where the most of them are to be found to-day. + +[Illustration: GARRI WITH A LOAD OF SAILORS.] + +There were Klings, or men from the South of India, waiting for work on +the corners, or offering their _garris_, or carriages, for the use of +our friends. Most of the carriages for hire in Singapore are driven by +these Klings, who are a lithe race, with great powers of endurance, and +equally great powers of rascality. A garri is a four-wheeled vehicle +drawn by a single horse: some of the garris have seats for the driver, +while others have no place for him, but leave him to walk or run by the +side of his beast. The horse is as small in proportion as the man, and +the boys were greatly amused to see one of these vehicles with a party +of sailors who had just come on shore from an English ship. Three of +them were inside, while one was stretched along the roof of the garri, +which he more than covered. They were evidently enjoying themselves, and +the driver had his nose in the air, and was doubtless counting up the +profits of his day's work, and feeling happy over the result. + +The boys were surprised to learn that, while there was a population of +more than a hundred thousand Chinese, Malays, Klings, and other +Orientals at Singapore, there were not more than a thousand Europeans +living there, exclusive of the English garrison. Of these Europeans the +English were the most numerous; the rest were Germans, French, +Portuguese, Dutch, and Italians, in the order named, and it was said +that the Germans were increasing more rapidly than the English, and +threatened to have all the business of the place in their hands in +course of time. + +While our friends were discussing the peculiarities of the population of +Singapore, their walk brought them to "The Square," as the commercial +centre is called; and, as the hours of business had arrived, the Doctor +proceeded to attend to his financial affairs, and learn, in a practical +way, the mysteries of banking at the capital city of the Straits of +Malacca. + +[Illustration: FULL DRESS AT THE STRAITS.] + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +SIGHTS AND SCENES IN SINGAPORE. + + +The incidents of the first day in Singapore were well described by Frank +and Fred in the letter they wrote in the evening, to make sure that +nothing would be forgotten. The labor of writing was divided between +them; Frank describing one part of what they saw, and leaving the rest +for Fred. As their time was pressing, the Doctor "gave them a lift," as +Fred expressed it, and added something relative to the commerce of the +straits, and the importance of Singapore as a place of trade. + +Here is the joint letter. Frank said that if two heads were better than +one, three heads must be better than two. Fred added that when one of +the three was the Doctor's head, he thought it would be difficult for +any letter to go ahead of theirs. + + * * * * * + +"We have had a busy day at Singapore. Singapore means 'place of lions;' +and probably it is so called because there are no lions here. It stands +on an island about twenty miles long and six or eight wide, and is +separated from the main-land by a narrow strait. On the main-land there +are plenty of tigers, and they sometimes swim over to the island in +search of food. Formerly they killed an average of one man a day; but of +late years they have not done so well. They are becoming more and more +scarce every year, as they have been hunted down till there are not many +of them left. + +"We had a stroll through the town this morning, and then we went to a +banking-house to draw some money. The banker gave us a check on one of +the large establishments, and we went there expecting to find an +Englishman in charge. We looked around as we entered the door, and not +an Englishman or other European was to be seen! + +"All the employés of the bank were Chinese--at least as far as we could +ascertain. A Chinese paying-teller took the check, and passed it to a +Chinese book-keeper, who sat in a little box at the end of the counter. +He examined the check, and stamped it after making an entry in a book; +and then he returned it to the teller, who counted out the money and +gave it to us without saying a word. There were piles of silver and bank +notes in sight, and all in charge of Chinese. We looked into another +bank, where the same arrangement existed; and we went into a +business-house where there were at least a dozen Chinese clerks to one +European. + +"The business of Singapore is centred around what is called The Square, +and in a walk of ten minutes you can pass by the most of the large +houses for banking and commerce. Here they have also the consulates and +the telegraph and steamship offices; and all these establishments +imitate the example of the banks in employing Chinese clerks and +_compradors_. On the whole, it seems to us that there is very little +business of any kind at Singapore that the Chinese have not something to +do with. + +"The Chinese seem to be crowding the Europeans out of everything; and +there is no branch of business that they are not perfectly familiar +with. They might send all the English and other foreigners away some +pleasant morning, take Singapore into their own hands, and run it just +as well as it is run now. + +"After we had finished our business with the bank, we took a garri for a +drive to the outside of the city. + +[Illustration: CHINESE GARDEN AT SINGAPORE.] + +"There is a famous garden here, belonging to a wealthy Chinese merchant: +it is said to be one of the finest gardens in the world, and must have +cost a great deal of money. No visitor to Singapore should omit it, even +if he has not more than a few hours on land. + +"In the first place, Singapore is so near the equator that every kind of +tropical tree and plant can grow here in the open air. The mercury shows +an average, all the year round, of eighty-five to ninety-five degrees in +the shade; and there is hardly any difference between summer and winter. +Consequently it is one of the best places, perhaps _the_ best place, for +making a handsome garden, and the enterprising proprietor has kept this +fact in mind. Where he is sure the thermometer will never fall below +seventy-one degrees, he can grow anything he pleases. + +"Such a lot of tropical things you never saw, and hardly ever dreamed +of. There were rows on rows of beautiful palms and bamboos, and other +things that only grow in the hot regions; and there was a pond with an +enormous _Victoria regia_--the great water-lily that makes ours seem +almost like a microscopic object. + +"There are said to be more than eighty varieties of the palm; and if +there is not a sample of each of these varieties in this garden, I am +greatly mistaken. The garden covers a great deal of ground, and has +been made with much care and taste. The owner is very proud of it, and +always pleased to have strangers go there and admire it. The keeper, and +the men under his orders, are very civil; and evidently the owner has +told them that if they are not polite to strangers they will be sent +away, and people of better manners put in their places. + +"The garden contains a collection of tropical animals, but it is not +very large. There was an orang-outang, or gorilla, there, and it was +wonderfully like a man in its shape and appearance. It was said to have +come from Borneo; and, if so, it was not a gorilla, but an orang-outang, +as the gorilla is a native of Africa, and not of the Eastern +Archipelago. + +[Illustration: MATERNAL CARE.] + +"We were much amused at the comical appearance of a couple of +chimpanzees. They were mother and child, and the mother was gravely +occupied in arranging the hair of the youngster. He stared at us with +his great round eyes; but she did not look up at all, as she was too +much engaged with making the young fellow look well. We had a fine +opportunity to see the formation of the feet of this variety of monkey; +they have thumbs on the hind feet as well as on the forward ones, and as +you look at them you can easily understand the readiness with which +these animals can climb trees and swing from the limbs. + +"The chimpanzees are said to show a great deal of fondness for each +other. There is a story that two of them were once kept in the same +cage, and one happened to take sick and die. The other was so affected +by grief at the loss of its companion, that it refused all food for more +than a week, and was finally forced to take something down its throat +when so weak that it could hardly stand. It recovered very slowly, and +never seemed to forget the absence of its old friend. + +"There is another garden at Singapore which is the property of the city; +it contains more animals than the private one, and fewer trees. We went +to it, and had a pleasant half-hour among the curiosities it contains. +The garden is an excellent thing to show strangers what the tropics can +produce in the way of animals and birds, and for this reason we were +much interested in it, and sorry when the time came to leave. + +[Illustration: RURAL SCENE IN SINGAPORE.] + +"The drive that we took led us among the forests of cocoa and other +palm-trees that extend all over the island, except where clearings have +been made. A large part of the land has been put under cultivation by +the Chinese settlers, and they have some very pretty farms and gardens, +in which they produce all the vegetables that are consumed at +Singapore. + +"Several kinds of spices grow on the island, and there are some +plantations where pepper is cultivated. They raise considerable +sugar-cane, but most of it is used for preserves, and is not converted +into the sugar of commerce. Then there are lots of cocoa-nuts grown on +the island, and there are many varieties of fruits. + +[Illustration: FRUIT-SELLERS AT SINGAPORE.] + +"When we walked through the town in the morning we saw groups of natives +selling fruit, and we afterwards saw some of these fruits growing on the +trees. They comprised durians, pomegranates, pineapples, custard-apples, +mangoes, bananas, and plantains; and we were told that there are more +than twenty varieties of the plantain alone. + +"The pineapple needs no description, as you have it at home; the +custard-apple is about the size of an ordinary apple, and has a soft +pulp surrounding the seeds. The best way to eat it is to scoop out the +contents with a spoon, and it is this way of eating more than the taste +that has given it its name. But the durian is the largest and funniest +of all these tropical fruits. + +"The durian is like a small pumpkin, with a rough skin so hard and thick +that the birds cannot make much impression on it. The seeds are nearly +as large as chestnuts, and each seed is surrounded by a soft pulp, just +as the stone of a peach is embedded in the body of the fruit. People who +live here grow very fond of it, but travellers do not learn to like it +until they have made a good many attempts. It is not the taste that +repels them, but the smell, and this is something atrocious. + +"We have tried to eat it, but could not do so even by holding our noses, +for the disagreeable odor would rise in spite of all precautions we +could take. We are told that the best way is to have the servants cut it +up and put the pieces in milk, and by taking them out of the milk and +swallowing quickly the smell is avoided. Perhaps this might work; but a +better plan would be to have the servants eat the stuff up when it was +properly prepared, and let you hear nothing more about it. + +[Illustration: A BUNGALOW.] + +"All the merchants who can afford the expense of a bungalow, or private +residence outside the city limits, are sure to indulge in it. The +consequence is that there are many of these residences; and as they +always have plenty of ground around them, and an abundance of shade +trees, the bungalows make a very pretty picture, or a succession of +pictures. The bungalow has wide verandas and overhanging eaves, and as +nobody wants to climb stairways where the heat is as great as in +Singapore, you rarely find a dwelling of more than one story. Then these +merchants have carriages of their own, and do not depend on the garries; +and in the evening their carriages driving along the esplanade road make +a fine appearance. The rich Chinese endeavor to live after the manner of +the Europeans; they have their bungalows and their carriages, and some +of the finest of the latter that we have seen were the property of +Chinese merchants. Their passion for fine gardens is greater than that +of the Europeans, and several of the bungalows have a very costly +surrounding of grounds. The fine garden we have described is not by any +means the only one belonging to a Chinese resident of Singapore. + +[Illustration: CHINESE GENTLEMAN'S GARDEN.] + +"The horses they use here are from Australia, and whenever a lot arrives +by a ship they have an auction in the square. They say that some of the +horses turn out well, and increase rapidly in value; while others seem +to be much affected by the climate, and do not last more than a year +or two. The horses fetch good prices, and the trade of bringing them +from Australia is said to be quite profitable. + +"Everywhere we go we see Chinese. They are of all classes, from highest +to lowest, and from honest to dishonest. They are in every kind of +business, and they have their guilds or trade associations just as they +have them in China. They occupy official positions under the government, +and on several occasions there have been Chinese members of the +Legislative Council of Singapore. Once in awhile there is trouble +between them and the Europeans, arising out of questions of commerce: +but for the most part everything runs along smoothly, and the Chinese +show a perfect readiness to obey the laws, and live as they ought to +live. And speaking of their trades-unions calls to mind an amusing +story. + +[Illustration: THE GOD OF GAMBLERS.] + +"They carry the principle of trade association into everything; and the +thieves and gamblers have their guilds and gods like the others. The +guilds have rules and regulations that are very strict; and if a man +violates them he is liable to be expelled, and driven to seek a living +by honest means. When thieves wish to commit a robbery, they must +consult the officers of the guild and get their permission, and they +must pay a certain amount of the profits for the support of the +association. + +"Sometimes they go in parties of a hundred or more; they surround a +house and plunder it by force, and they usually manage it so that the +occupants cannot make any resistance. It is said that when a house is to +be robbed, the thieves will scatter a narcotic drug about the rooms that +has no effect upon themselves, but will put a European to sleep. He +sleeps till long after the robbery is finished, and does not suffer the +least injury by inhaling it. + +"When a thief enters a house to practise his profession, he removes his +clothes and oils his body all over. He winds his pig-tail around his +head--having previously stuck it full of needles. If anybody attempts to +grasp his arm or leg, he slips off like an eel; and, if he is seized by +the pig-tail, the person who takes hold of it is sure to let go in a +hurry. Who shall say that the Chinese thief is not a shrewd operator? + +[Illustration: MALAY BOY IN THE BIRD-MARKET.] + +"One of the curious things that we saw was the poultry-market. Poultry +includes a great deal more here than at home: as we found not only +chickens, ducks, geese, and other familiar things, but a great variety +of pigeons, quails, pheasants, and other edible birds from the forest. +Then there was an abundance of parrots, lories, cockatoos, and +paroquets, besides other birds whose names we did not know. Such a +screaming and cackling you never heard in your life. The heat is so +great at Singapore that everything to be eaten must be sold alive, as it +would begin to decay in a very short time after being slaughtered. Most +of the chickens were in coops, or tied together by the legs; and the +same was the case with the geese and ducks. + +"The parrots, and members of their family, were generally secured by +strings to little perches, and they kept up an incessant chattering in +the Malay and other Oriental tongues. One was offered to us that spoke +English; but, as his vocabulary consisted only of a half-dozen words of +profanity, that had been taught to him by a sailor, we declined to +purchase. A crowd of men and boys surrounded us with birds in their +hands, and on their heads and shoulders; all talked at once, and offered +their birds at very low prices. We could have bought paroquets for +twenty-five cents; and a talking-parrot, very large, and white as snow, +was offered for six dollars, and could have been had for three. How they +manage to find a market for all the birds they bring to Singapore it is +difficult to imagine. + +"You may be interested to know how these birds are brought here, and +where they come from. They are from the many islands south of Singapore +that form the Malay Archipelago, and they are brought by the natives on +speculation. When the south-west monsoon begins, a family starts in its +little boat for a voyage of from one to three thousand miles; and the +boat is one in which an American would be unwilling to risk a voyage +from New York to Boston. They run along from port to port, trading a +little wherever they can, and ultimately reach Singapore. The boat has a +deck, with a slight awning of woven grass, and is covered with the +family and birds--the latter being numbered sometimes by the hundred. In +the hold they have shells, feathers, spices, and other products, and +they are constantly making exchanges at the places they visit. They sell +their cargoes at Singapore, and buy a lot of cotton-cloth, hardware, and +other things that are in demand where they live, and then go back as +they came. This accounts for the large number of birds exposed for sale +in the poultry-market, and the low prices they are held at. + +[Illustration: HEAD OF BLACK COCKATOO.] + +"Among the birds offered to us there was a black cockatoo, with a +splendid head and crest. His bill had a point like a needle, and was +very large and strong. We wondered how he could eat, and what he lived +on, as the shape of his bill and his lower jaw seemed the most awkward +that one could imagine. We asked his owner to feed the bird, and gave +him a few cents to show us how the operation of eating was performed. + +"The man brought a triangular nut which had a smooth surface, and was so +hard that we could not crack it without a hammer. The bird took the nut +endwise in his bill; he held it in place by pressing his tongue against +it, and then began sawing across it with his lower jaw. + +"When he had cut a deep notch in this way, he turned the nut a little, +and used the underjaw as a wedge to break off the end. Then he held the +nut in one claw, and with the sharp point of his bill he picked out the +kernel; and as fast as he brought a bit of it to the light, he seized it +with his long tongue. Whether the bird was created for the nut, or the +nut for the bird, is a question for the naturalists; at all events, each +seems to be perfectly adapted to the other. The fitness of the +cockatoo's beak to the process of opening this hard product of the +forest is as exact as it could be made. + +"While we were in the market a man kept endeavoring to attract our +attention to something he had in a large basket; we supposed it was a +new kind of bird, and went to see it. It proved to be a large snake, and +the man urged us to buy with all the eloquence of which he was capable. +We are not buying snakes just now, and so we left him to find another +customer. + +"Snakes are abundant in this part of the world, and there are all the +varieties a man could want. Over on the main-land of Malacca they have +some very large ones, and you are liable at any time, when walking in +the forest, to come across a huge python swinging across your path. They +come into the houses and make themselves at home, and they never wait +for an invitation. + +"A gentleman who has spent a good deal of time in this region tells an +interesting story of a visit that a snake made to him. + +"One evening, just as he was going to bed, he heard a noise on the roof +overhead, but thought nothing of it. The next day he was lying down with +a book in his hand, just after dinner, and, happening to cast his eye +upwards, he saw something on the thatch that resembled a large +tortoise-shell. It was spotted with yellow and black marks; and while he +was wondering who could have put the shell there to dry, he discovered +that it was a snake coiled up, and lying asleep. + +"The gentleman got up very quickly, and called his servants. As soon as +they learned there was a snake on the roof they were greatly frightened, +and ran out of the house to call some laborers from the plantation. +Several men came, and one of them, who was familiar with the habits of +the snake, proceeded to make a noose of bamboo and slip it over the +reptile's head. He succeeded in this, and dragged the snake from the +roof; then he took the creature by the tail, and tried to run out of the +house with him. + +[Illustration: EJECTING AN INTRUDER.] + +"The snake coiled around the chairs and posts, and gave the man +considerable trouble in ejecting him from the premises. As soon as he +had his prize outside he had a clear field, and soon made an end of the +serpent by dashing his head against a tree. The snake was more than +twelve feet long, and was capable of doing serious damage if he had +given his attention to it. The gentleman was not in a pleasant frame of +mind when he found that he had slept all night with the snake over his +head, and had taken his afternoon nap in the same position. + +"We haven't seen any tigers for sale, but there is no doubt we could +find plenty if we wanted them. What with tigers and snakes and other +things, not to mention the heat and the danger of fever, Singapore and +the surrounding country do not appear desirable as a permanent +residence. Yet there are people who say they like it out here, and are +quite willing to stay. We are not of that mind; and nobody who cares to +live near the Straits of Malacca need have any fear that we will ever +try to get his place away from him. + +"We would like to go over to Johore and see what the main-land is like, +but we haven't time for the journey. There is a fine road across the +island, to where you can take a boat and cross the strait. It is a drive +of about fifteen miles, and is said to be very interesting, as it takes +you through forests of palms, and past plantations of pepper and +gambier. Perhaps you don't know what gambier is? We didn't till we came +to the East. + +"It is the dried and refined juice of a plant that grows in Malacca, and +is much used in dyeing and tanning, and also for stiffening silks. Great +quantities of it are shipped from Singapore to Europe, and it forms an +important item in the commerce of the place. + +"The Maharajah of Johore is the son of the one from whom, in 1819, the +English bought the island of Singapore. They gave sixty thousand dollars +cash, and pay an annual subsidy of twenty thousand dollars; and they +have kept on paying it without complaint. As the place is an excellent +market for everything that the region produces, the Maharajah has become +rich, and is on the best of terms with the English; he frequently visits +the governor and is visited by him in return, and when any person of +distinction comes here he is invited to stop as long as he likes at +Johore. The Maharajah is a strict Mohammedan, but he has adopted many +of the features of European life in his household. He has a French cook, +and his dinners are served _à la European_. When entertaining visitors +from England or America, he generally wears a dress-suit after the +European manner; and he has so far overcome the prejudices of his +religion as to invite ladies to his table. + +"The currency of Singapore is the dollar, or, to be more explicit, the +Spanish dollar. It is divided into one hundred cents, like our dollar, +and all transactions are reckoned in this currency. But you find all +kinds of money in circulation--English, French, American, Dutch, and +Spanish; and if you want rupees, or any other Eastern currency, you will +have no difficulty in getting it. The cosmopolitan character of +Singapore is very well illustrated in the many varieties of coin in +circulation. + +"We have found a new type of mankind here--the Eurasian. + +"You will possibly ask, 'What is the Eurasian?' + +[Illustration: A NEW TYPE OF MANKIND.] + +"The word is compounded of 'Europe' and 'Asia,' as you can easily +perceive, and the man who bears that name is of mixed European and +Asiatic blood. The most of them have adopted the European dress and +manners, and refuse to associate with the natives, while, on the other +hand, they are not admitted to European society. Consequently they are +in an unhappy position, as they are neither the one nor the other, and +there does not appear to be any recognized place for them. They have +been said to combine the vices of both their parent races, with the good +qualities of neither; there are some men of ability among them, but, on +the whole, the remark has a great deal of truth in it. + +"In Singapore there are many descendants of the early Portuguese +settlers of the East; they still preserve the Portuguese language, and +adhere to their religion, though sometimes they are rather weak in both. +It is a curious fact that, though they preserve the features of Europe, +their skins are frequently darker than those of the natives; and the +spectacle is not an infrequent one of a man with Caucasian features, and +a complexion black as a piece of anthracite coal. + +"If you wish to realize the importance of Singapore as a place of trade, +you have only to look at a map of the Eastern hemisphere and observe the +position of the city. It is a convenient commercial point for China and +Japan, for Java and the Malay Archipelago, for Siam, and even for +Australia. Ships going between Europe and the far East rarely pass +Singapore without stopping, and the great lines of steamships have a +large business here. The commerce has steadily increased every year, and +there is no sign that it will decline. Some of the old merchants +complain that competition has ruined trade; they sigh for the return of +the days when they had only one mail a month, and there was no telegraph +to give hourly quotations of the prices of goods in all parts of the +world. In those days business was confined to a few houses, and the +chances of an outsider were slight indeed. Fortunes were sometimes made +by a single venture, and not unfrequently a merchant had exclusive +information of advances or declines that he could have a whole month to +operate upon, without the least fear that anybody would be able to +interfere with him. + +"Profits are smaller to-day, and capital must be turned very often; the +volume of business is far greater than it used to be, and the men who +regret the good old times are forced to accept things as they are." + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +CROSSING THE EQUATOR.--ADVENTURE WITH MALAY PIRATES. + + +There were several things held in reserve to be seen on the second day +in Singapore. Our friends went to the museum and library, which are in a +large building near the esplanade or park where people stroll in the +afternoon, and not far from the road which forms the fashionable drive. +The library is an excellent one, and contains a great number of works on +the East; the Doctor spent an hour or more among the books, and, while +examining their titles and contents, he came upon a volume which was +written by one of his intimate friends in America. It was entitled +"Overland through Asia," and described a journey that the author once +made across the northern part of the Eastern hemisphere. + +There was a fair collection of minerals and other things in the museum, +and the boys were interested in a huge python that lay coiled around +some rocks in the centre of one of the rooms. The director of the museum +told them that the serpent was kept in a cage in the museum for some +time, but it was finally determined to kill and stuff him, so that his +appearance could be more readily studied by visitors. The work of +killing was more serious than had been anticipated; it was done by means +of chloroform, as they did not wish to injure the reptile's skin by +lacerating it. + +A sponge saturated with chloroform was introduced between the bars of +the cage, and held over the head of the python as he lay asleep. Instead +of being stupefied, he was awakened by it; and he indicated most +emphatically, by moving his head away, that he did not like that kind of +treatment. He refused to breathe the narcotic, and it became apparent +that some means of compelling him to take it must be adopted. + +A noose was passed over his head, and he was drawn forward so that his +nose was at the bars of the cage. Then the sponge was again applied, and +he was forced to inhale the chloroform, whether he wanted to or not. He +lashed about from side to side, and sometimes it seemed as though he +would tear the cage to pieces with the violence of his demonstrations. +All this time he was breathing the narcotic; but it was nearly an hour +before he was fairly under its influence, and another hour was required +to reduce him to a state of quiet. Even when he had ceased to lash +around so as to threaten injury to the cage, his body was constantly +giving convulsive twitches, and these did not end for several hours. The +gentleman who superintended the operation said that the snake was the +worst patient he ever saw under the influence of chloroform, and the +hardest to manage. + +They took another drive into the country, over a road that had been +newly opened. Their way led them near a native village, where the houses +were thickly thatched with grass and strips of palm-leaf, so as to keep +out the heavy rains that frequently occur. It is said that at Singapore +more than half the days of the year are favored with showers, and the +records show that in some years they have had two hundred and odd rainy +days. The rain cools the air, and it is probably owing to the rain and +wind that there are so few cases of fever among the Europeans. Sometimes +the wind develops into a lively squall that sets all light things in +motion and fills the air with clouds of dust. It frequently happens that +the papers on the desk of a merchant will be sent flying about the room, +and possibly out of the window; and there are stories of valuable +documents and notes of the Bank of England being whisked away, so that +their owners never saw them again. + +[Illustration: KLINGS AND CHINESE.] + +They saw groups of Klings and Chinese along the road; and in one +instance four of the former were holding a discussion over a basket of +fruit, and making things so lively that the boys thought there would be +a fight. The Klings do not bear a good reputation among the Europeans, +and are not on friendly terms with the Chinese. They are first-class +rascals in all their dealings where they can take advantage; and, if +there is no danger of receiving punishment, they are almost certain to +be insolent. On the other hand, they are cringing to their superiors, +and make the utmost professions of friendship, while ready at any moment +to indulge in the meanest treachery. The Chinese, with whatever +disagreeable qualities they possess, are much to be preferred to the +Klings. + +[Illustration: NATIVE NURSES AND CHILDREN.] + +Frank and Fred were amused at the costumes of the native nurses, whom +they occasionally saw in charge of European children. They were more +noticeable for their comfort in the hot climate of the tropics than for +elegance of design; and it was evident that the expense of keeping one +of these nurses in clothing was not great. The native children go quite +naked until five or six years of age, and even later; and it was not an +uncommon sight to see a woman bearing a water-jar, and followed by a +little urchin entirely destitute of clothing, in marked contrast to the +European children, who were dressed after the custom of the country +whence their parents came. + +The native women are fond of ornaments in their ears, like the women of +other countries, and a good many of them have their noses pierced and +decorated. Anklets and armlets of silver and gold are also worn, and it +is not unusual to see a woman, whose entire clothing has cost less than +a dollar, almost weighted down with jewellery worth a goodly sum. + +[Illustration: COALING AT THE DOCK.] + +They visited the new harbor of Singapore to see the ship on which they +intended leaving the following morning for Java. The new harbor is known +as Tangong Pagar, and has the advantage over the old one of allowing +ships to lie at a dock instead of anchoring a considerable distance from +shore. The docks are well built, and there are mountains of coal piled +up there to meet the wants of ships. Singapore is an important +coaling-station for ships in the Eastern trade, and sometimes a dozen of +them may be seen taking coal at Tangong Pagar at the same time. + +[Illustration: CARRYING COAL ON BOARD.] + +Our friends were satisfied with the appearance of the steamer; and when +they had completed their inspection they returned to the hotel, and from +there went to the office of the Dutch Steamship Company to engage +passage. Every week there is a steamer leaving Singapore for Batavia. +One week it is a French ship, and the next a Dutch one; the latter runs +in connection with the Peninsular and Oriental line; while the former +belongs to the great company which carries the French mail from Europe +to the East. It happened to be the week of the Dutch ship when Doctor +Bronson and his young companions were at Singapore, and they +congratulated themselves that they would have the opportunity of going +on a vessel of a nationality new to them. + +Frank and Fred opened their eyes in astonishment when they learned the +price they were to pay for passage to Java. + +"Forty-six dollars!" exclaimed Frank; "and for a voyage of forty-eight +hours!" + +"And it is only five hundred miles from Singapore to Batavia," Fred +responded. "How much does it cost to go from New York to England, and +what is the distance?" + +The Doctor informed him that it was about three thousand miles from New +York to Liverpool, and the passage was usually a hundred dollars for the +best places on the best steamers. + +"At the rate from here to Batavia," said Fred, "we should have to pay +two hundred and seventy-five dollars for the transatlantic voyage where +we now pay one hundred dollars. Why does it cost so much more here than +on the Atlantic?" + +"In the first place," the Doctor explained, "there are comparatively few +people travelling here, and the companies are compelled to ask high +prices in order to keep up their ships. Where a steamer between New York +and Liverpool would have a hundred passengers and more, and consider it +only an ordinary business, you will rarely find more than twenty or +thirty passengers on a steamer in the Far East. Coal is much more +expensive here than in the North Atlantic ports, and so is nearly +everything else that is used on a ship. In these hot regions the +passengers need more room than on a transatlantic steamer, and more +personal comforts generally." + +"But don't they ever crowd the passengers rather uncomfortably?" Frank +asked. "It seems to me that I have heard you speak of a very +disagreeable voyage you once had on account of the unusual number of +people on the steamer you travelled on." + +"You are quite right," the Doctor replied; "and it was on this very +route, from Singapore to Batavia. I was on the French steamer; and the +agents told me there would be plenty of room, as only a few passengers +were engaged. She had eight rooms, with two berths to a room, so that +her complement of passengers was sixteen. But when we came to start we +found that we numbered fifty-two; and you can easily understand that we +had a hard time of it. We were packed something like sardines in a can, +and all were heartily glad when the voyage was over. If we could have +laid hold of the Singapore agent of the company we should have treated +him as roughly as the laws of the ocean permit; but he had the advantage +of being on shore, and quite out of our reach." + +[Illustration: SERVANTS ON DUTY.] + +The trio of travellers rose early the next morning, as the steamer was +advertised to leave at seven o'clock, and the dock was a long distance +from the hotel. Their baggage was piled in a small cart drawn by a +bullock, and started off some time ahead of them, so as to be at the +steamer before they reached there in the more expeditious garri. When +they had swallowed their morning coffee and came out of the hotel, they +found a group of servants waiting near the door to ask for money, as a +reward for their services. Frank said the only energy the fellows +displayed during his acquaintance with them was in this final act of +begging; it was far from an easy matter to get any service out of them, +as their chief occupation was gambling, and they were too much engrossed +in it to pay any attention to common things. + +The steamer sailed promptly on her advertised time. During the last +half-hour of their stay at the dock, the passengers were amused by the +antics of a lot of men and boys who dived for money. They were in small +boats close to the steamer, and whenever a coin, silver or copper, was +thrown into the water, a dozen of the fellows plunged over in search of +it. Generally they caught it before it had gone far below the surface, +and sometimes there would be a struggle between two of the divers for +the possession of a coin. The loser would appeal to the passengers to +throw over a piece which could be his special property, and he very +often succeeded in inducing them to do so. + +The Doctor told the boys that the quarrel over the money was a clever +bit of acting, as the fellows were associated, and the result of the +day's work was divided equally among them. Sometimes they refuse to dive +for copper coins, and will only go over for silver. If any coppers are +thrown they decline to move, and say it is impossible to see copper at +the bottom of the water. Consequently their harvest is in silver; and if +any copper has been dropped, they dive for it after the ship has gone. + +[Illustration: SCENE ON THE SUMATRA COAST.] + +The route of the steamer proved to be very picturesque. The numerous +islands that lie at this part of the Straits of Malacca were visible in +whatever direction our friends turned their eyes, and away to the right +was the coast of Sumatra, thickly clothed in tropical verdure. The +islands were so many, and lay so irregularly, that the steamer was +obliged to change her course every few hours, and Fred thought before +noon that they must have steered to every point of the compass since +they left Singapore. + +The sky was clear, and the heat of the sun poured fiercely down on the +triple awning that covered the stern of the ship's deck. But it was less +severe than the boys had expected to find it; and they both agreed that +the Gulf of Siam was quite as uncomfortable as the Java Sea near the +equator. + +Our young friends were full of excitement at the prospect of going into +southern latitude. They were frequently studying their maps and looking +at their watches, so as to be on the lookout for the equator at the +moment of crossing it. + +"We left Singapore at seven in the morning," said Frank, "and we had +eighty miles to go to reach the equator. The steamer is running ten +miles an hour, and according to my calculation we should be on the +equator about three o'clock." + +Fred was of the same opinion; and it was determined that they would +watch closely from two till four o'clock, and see if the southern +hemisphere was in any way unlike the Northern one; and so they watched +while the steamer moved on and on towards the south. A little past three +in the afternoon the Doctor told them they were probably in the region +of no latitude, and that the equator was under their feet. + +"I tell you what, Frank," said Fred, "it may be all my imagination, but +it seems to me that the sea has a different appearance here from +anything I have yet seen." + +"What is that?" + +"Why, you know that everywhere else when we are at sea we appear to be +in a hollow or basin, and the horizon line of the water is higher than +we are. Now, as I look off from the steamer, it seems to me that the +world rounds away from us, and if my eyesight was strong enough I could +see the North and the South Poles. Instead of being in a hollow, as we +have always appeared to be heretofore, I seem to be on a great globe, or +the summit of a rounded hill." + +Frank thought he had the same sensation, but not so strongly as Fred. +They appealed to the Doctor, who said that the feeling was mostly +imaginary, and grew out of the knowledge that they were crossing the +equator. "But there is sometimes a condition of the atmosphere," he +added, "which produces the appearance you describe. In all the time I +have passed at sea I have seen it only on a few occasions--perhaps three +or four in all. There is a suggestion of it at this moment, I observe, +and your imagination has done the rest. + +"And you may consider yourself fortunate," he continued, "that you are +not making an old-fashioned voyage of twenty or thirty years ago." + +"Why so?" Frank asked. + +"Because," was the reply, "you would run the risk of an introduction to +Father Neptune." + +"I remember," said Fred, "that is the ceremony they talk about in +crossing the line for the first time." + +"Yes," Frank responded, "they play all kinds of pranks on the +greenhorns, or those who have never been beyond the equator." + +"My first crossing of the line was on an English ship," said the Doctor, +"and the custom was allowed in its full force. They fastened below all of +the crew who were not old sailors, and also all of the passengers. The +latter were let off by paying half a sovereign each, to be expended in +drink for the crew; three-fourths of them complied at once, and were let +up to see the fun. But the greenhorns of the crew were not excused, and +we had a chance to see how the ceremony was performed." + +"And how was it?" + +[Illustration: CROSSING THE LINE ON A MAN-OF-WAR.] + +"Just about daybreak the ship was hailed by a hoarse voice that seemed +to come from under the bows. The voice was followed by Neptune in +person, and he was accompanied by several attendants blowing conch +shells. Neptune was one of the old sailors in disguise; he had a long +beard made of rope-yarn, and a tin crown, and he carried a trident in +his right hand as he marched along the deck. His attendants were +equipped with beards almost as long as those of Neptune, and, like their +master, they were naked to the waist. + +"He ordered the sailors to bring him a throne, and he was speedily +mounted on the top of a cask. Then, one after another, the greenhorns +were brought before him to be questioned and shaved. + +"'Do you intend to serve me always, and be a good sailor?' was the first +question that Neptune addressed to the subject before him. + +"As the man opened his mouth to answer, the shaving-brush was thrust +into it. The brush was a swab made of yarn, and the lather consisted of +coarse soap mixed with water from the tub where the grindstone stood. +The shaving was performed with a rusty iron hoop, and without any +tenderness or delicacy. The victims were made to go through the +performance in spite of their struggles, and when it was over the +majority of them found their faces covered with scratches that lasted +for several days. + +"The ceremony very rarely takes place nowadays on merchant-ships, and +only occasionally on men-of-war. No rudeness is now allowed on the part +of Neptune and his assistants, and the sport is confined to drenching +the greenhorns by getting them under a sail filled with water, or +playing some other harmless prank. Generally all the officers come on +deck to meet Neptune on his arrival, and there is a partial relaxation +of discipline for half an hour or so." + +The subject was dropped, and the boys devoted themselves to studying the +appearance of the water, and the varying light and shadow on the +Sumatran coast, which was constantly in sight. Suddenly Frank said he +had thought of something he wished to ask the Doctor. + +His question had reference to the Malay pirates, of which he had often +read, and he wished to know if he was not in the vicinity of those +disagreeable men. + +"We are in their neighborhood," said the Doctor; "but I don't think we +need fear anything from them." + +"Of course not," cried Fred; "they would never disturb a steamer like +this." + +"Not unless she was disabled, and in their power," responded Frank; "and +then, I suppose, they would not show much mercy." + +"As to that," remarked the Doctor, "it is difficult to lay down an +invariable rule. The pirates pursue their trade for love of gain, and +are not likely to rush to destruction. If they should get in the way of +this vessel she would be likely to run their boats down, and that would +be an end of them. They have a wholesome fear of a steamer, and are +careful to keep out of her way. + +"Twenty or thirty years ago there were a great many pirates all through +the Malay Archipelago. They carried on their business as an American +would deal in wheat or conduct a hotel, and there were whole towns and +villages entirely supported by piracy. They attacked Chinese or other +native boats, and they also overpowered European ships that were +becalmed in the straits between the numerous islands. The crews were +murdered, or sold into slavery in many instances, while in others they +were released after much suffering. The evil became so great that some +of the civilized nations sent ships of war to destroy the villages where +the pirates had their resorts, and also to capture the pirate craft. + +"Against a sailing ship the pirates have a great advantage. Their proas, +or boats, have a large number of men to row them, and when a ship is +becalmed they can come out to her in strong force and rush upon her. +They board the ship on both bows simultaneously by dozens and dozens, +and in a few moments the crew is overpowered, and the vessel in their +hands. + +"One of the war-ships that came here was disguised as a merchant +vessel, and she made so many captures that for some time the pirates +were afraid to go near a vessel of her rig. An American ship was +captured by some pirates from Qualla Battu, a town on the west coast of +Sumatra, and the government of the United States sent a ship to teach +the fellows a lesson. Qualla Battu was burnt, and the inhabitants that +were not killed by the shells from the ship were scattered in the +forest. The result was that for a long time afterwards no American ship +was troubled by them. + +"Singapore was formerly a business centre for the pirates, even after it +went into the hands of the English. They swarmed among the channels of +the islands in the vicinity, and they had spies in the fort to tell them +of the movements of every craft that sailed from it. Their principal +victims were the native traders, who could offer little resistance, and +they used to conduct the business in the most systematic manner." + +"How was that?" + +[Illustration: CHIEF'S HOUSE IN A PIRATE VILLAGE.] + +"A chief of one of the small provinces or districts of the Malay States +would make up his mind to embark in piracy as a regular business. He +would gather as many men under his banner as he could get together, and +go to one of the islands near Singapore. There he built a village, which +could serve as a depot for slaves and merchandise, and a convenient +resting-place for his men, when they had had a hard weeks' work. Then he +stationed himself in one of the channels, where native traders pass on +their way to and from Singapore; and very often he would know exactly +when one of them was expected. Where he was successful, the chief would +soon have a large fleet, sometimes hundreds of proas; and he gathered +around him a great number of adventurers, who were proud to range +themselves under his banners. His forces would become so large that he +could divide them, and watch several channels; and sometimes it happened +that serious troubles arose between rival pirates for the possession of +some place that was particularly valuable for purposes of plunder. + +[Illustration: HARBOR OF PIRATES.] + +"The ships they captured were taken to their settlements by the pirates; +and after all the goods in them had been removed, the craft and its +cordage would be burnt, to prevent identification. The plunder would be +sent to Singapore in the chief's trading-vessels, and sold in the open +market; and it often happened that a merchant who had sold goods to a +native trader living far to the south was able to buy them back again, +in a week or two, at a greatly reduced rate. + +"The native crews of the captured ships were taken to some of the +interior towns of Sumatra or Borneo, where they were sold as slaves to +work on the pepper plantations belonging to the Malays. The pirates +generally sailed in fleets of from four up to thirty proas, according to +the class of ships they were looking for. Each proa carried from twenty +to forty men, and had one or more small guns, in addition to muskets and +pistols. Their favorite weapons were the Malay kriss or knife; and they +had a supply of darts and other missiles, to be thrown on board their +intended prizes. + +"They always boarded over the bows, and they rushed on in such numbers +that the small crew of a merchant-ship could offer no resistance. Once +they met their match at the hands of a woman, and the fame of her +stratagem lasts to this day." + +"Oh! please tell us about it," said both the boys. + +"She was a Quakeress," the Doctor replied; "and you know the Quakers do +not believe in fighting. + +"She and her husband were passengers on a brig that was becalmed in one +of the straits of the Malay Archipelago. A dozen proas came out from a +little harbor where there was a pirate settlement, and paddled straight +towards the brig. The crew began preparations for defence, and the +captain called on the husband of this woman to perform his share of the +work. He refused, on the ground that fighting was contrary to his +religious principles; and his wife sustained the refusal. + +"'But, if he cannot fight,' said she, 'he and I will do something for +the general good of all on the ship.' + +"She told her husband to bring on deck some dozens of beer bottles that +had been emptied of their contents during the voyage. Then, with a +hammer, she set to work to break these bottles into small pieces, which +were scattered all over the deck. Her husband assisted her, and so did +the crew, and, before the proas were along-side, the whole deck, from +bow to stern, was covered with the bits of glass. + +"The proas came up, and the pirates swarmed in over the bows, after +their usual custom. These fellows are half-naked, and always +barefooted--the rest of the story will almost tell itself." + +"I think so," Frank responded. "The pirates trod on the fragments of +glass, and cut their feet so that they could not stand. The crew and +passengers were at the stern of the brig with their shoes on, and had +nothing to do, as the glass did all the fighting for them." + +[Illustration: THE PIRATES' VICTIM.] + +"That was about the way of it," said the Doctor. "The pirates nearly all +came on board, but not one of them was able to get aft to where the crew +stood. The deck was covered with Malays with lacerated feet, and they +were so helpless that the captain directed his men to pay no attention +to them, but to shoot the men in the proas. They were shot down +accordingly, and only a few of the rascals escaped. Those who were left +saw that something was wrong, and so they pulled away to the shore for +aid. + +"They had not gone far before a breeze sprung up, the sails filled, and +the brig began to move through the water. The breeze increased; and, +before re-enforcements could come from the shore to aid the pirates, the +brig was out of all danger." + +"And what became of the pirates that were left on the deck of the brig?" +Fred inquired. + +"The captain had no use for them," the Doctor answered, "and so he +dropped them overboard after sailing a few miles. The occurrence was a +discouraging one to the pirates in that region, and for a long time +afterwards they were very cautious about setting their bare feet on the +deck of a foreign ship. + +"There is very little piracy nowadays," the Doctor continued, "compared +to what there was a quarter of a century ago. It is very rarely the case +that a foreign ship is captured by the freebooters, or even molested by +them. They confine their operations to native traders; but they are +compelled to occupy the most secluded retreats, and therefore have +little chance to do anything. The construction of steam gun-boats was +the practical end of piracy, so far as its bearing upon foreign commerce +was concerned; the pirates were pursued to their haunts and destroyed, +and the native chiefs were made to understand that they would be held +responsible for every unlawful act committed within their jurisdiction. +Since the business became not only unprofitable but hazardous to the +necks of those in authority, very little has been heard of it." + +[Illustration; SINEWS OF WAR.] + + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +SUMATRA AND ITS PECULIARITIES.--SNAKES AND ORANG-OUTANGS. + + +The boys had observed, as they journeyed to the southward, that the +North Star declined lower and lower in the heavens in proportion as they +receded from the Pole. At Singapore it was only a little way above the +horizon, and after they passed the equator it disappeared altogether. +From Singapore they had seen the Southern Cross, which is to the South +what the Great Bear is to the North. + +Frank made a note of this fact, and the first night they were beyond the +equator they sat till a late hour on deck to study the appearance of the +heavens. When they first began their observations they could not see The +Cross, and Fred went to ask the Doctor the reason of its disappearance. + +"It is not yet above the horizon," said the Doctor, "and will not be +there till after midnight." + +"How is that?" + +"The Southern Cross is not over the South Pole, but about ten degrees +from it. Therefore, when we are so near the equator as we are now, the +Cross goes at times below the horizon. You must wait till late at night +before you can see it." + +They concluded to go to bed, and let the new constellation remain +undisturbed where it was. As they were going still farther south, they +would have abundant opportunity to see it before their return to +Singapore. + +The second day of their voyage they had the coast of Sumatra still in +sight for a large part of the time, and the boys wished they could make +a landing there and see something of the country. Among the passengers +there was a gentleman who had been in Sumatra, and he kindly undertook +to tell the boys something about the island and its people. + +He began by asking if either of the youths could tell him what the +geographies said about the island, and its extent and characteristics. + +"Certainly," Frank replied. "We know that it is about one thousand +miles long by two hundred and fifty wide, and has about five million +inhabitants. The Dutch have a part of it in their possession, and the +rest is independent; but perhaps the Dutch will have the whole of it one +of these days." + +"Why do you say that?" + +"Because the Dutch have been at war for some time with the native +government of the province called Acheen. At any rate I have read so; +and I have also read that when they succeed in capturing it they will +have more than three-fourths of the island under their control." + +"You are quite correct, I believe," said the gentleman; "but the Acheen +war may yet last a long time. The natives are brave, and the country is +very unhealthy for the Dutch. Fevers have killed more than the enemy's +weapons since the Dutch went there, and the conquest will be a very +costly one. But we will not trouble ourselves at present about the +Acheen war, as it is rarely heard of in America, or, for that matter, in +Europe. + +[Illustration: A TRADING-STATION ON THE COAST.] + +"The Dutch possessions include Padang and Bencoolen, on the west coast +of Sumatra; Lampong, on the southern end of the island; and Palembang, +on the east coast. Banca and some other islands of lesser size lie near +the coast of Sumatra; but they form separate governments, and are not to +be considered as belonging to the great island we are discussing. Banca +is famous for its mines of tin, which have been worked for a long time, +and are the source of a large revenue. There are many good harbors on +the coast, and there are two or three of them that can hardly be +surpassed anywhere. On most of these harbors there are cities, and a +considerable business is done in products of the tropics, such as rice, +pepper, ginger, turmeric, spices, and camphor and other gums. + +[Illustration: A BAYOU ON THE PALEMBANG RIVER.] + +"The only place in Sumatra I have visited," said the gentleman, "is +Palembang. The city is quite large, and is on a river of the same name; +to go to it you must ascend this river about a hundred miles, through a +country that is low and rather swampy. The foliage is luxuriant, and +there are numerous little bayous leading off from the river; so that you +must have a good guide, or run the risk at times of losing your way. + +"I went there in the rainy season, when much of the country was flooded. +The city is built on the river, and extends three or four miles along a +bend in the stream; so many of the houses are on floating rafts, that +rise and fall with the tide, that it makes little difference to the +inhabitants whether the river is high or low. If you have been in Siam +you can form a very good picture of Palembang, as it is much like +Bangkok in the number and arrangement of its floating houses. When you +go to market, you go in a small boat, just as you do in Bangkok, and +nearly everything is transported by water. + +[Illustration: ARAB HOUSES AT PALEMBANG.] + +"It is a peculiarity of the Malays never to build a house on solid +ground if they can find a place to stand it on piles in the water, and +they prefer a boat to any other kind of a conveyance. At Palembang the +most of the Malay inhabitants are thus located; but there are many Arab +and Chinese residents who have their houses on the solid ground. Most of +the trading is in the hands of these foreigners, and there are very few +European inhabitants besides the officials who represent the Dutch +government. They are very glad to have strangers come there, as it is a +change from the monotony of their every-day life; and if you should +happen to visit Palembang you may be sure of a kindly reception. + +"The country is quite low and swampy all around Palembang, though the +town itself is on a slight elevation that preserves it from overflowing. +You must go twenty or thirty miles farther up the river to the firm +country, and there you find the commencement of the tropical forests for +which Sumatra is famous." + +Fred asked what kind of trees are to be found in these forests. + +[Illustration: LOUNGING UNDER A MANGO-TREE.] + +"As to that," was the reply, "the trees are not much unlike what you +have seen in Malacca and Siam. They have several varieties of the palm, +and they have rubber-trees from which they derive a good revenue. The +mango-tree, with its broad branches and dark foliage, is frequently +seen, and it is a favorite in the neighborhood of the villages. The +natives like to swing their hammocks beneath it; and, for my own part, I +do not know a better place to lounge in, in a hot afternoon, than the +shade of a mango-tree. + +[Illustration: ALLIGATORS TAKING SUN AND AIR.] + +"Being under the equator, Sumatra is a hot country, and one must be +cautious about exposure to the sun. During the middle of the day you +should remain at rest, and you will find great refreshment in bathing +frequently; but take care how you plunge in the rivers, as many of them +are full of alligators, and sometimes these brutes are hungry. +Occasionally you may see dozens of them lying on the banks to enjoy the +sun, and they are hunted so little that you may come quite near without +disturbing them. At a little distance they look like logs, and you might +easily mistake their black bodies for sticks of timber that have been +partially burnt. There is one island just above Palembang where they +swarm in large numbers, and are of all sizes, from very small to very +large. The island also abounds in cranes; and sometimes they approach +near enough to the alligators to come within reach of the powerful tails +of those reptiles. In such a case there is a single sweep of the great +lever, and the whole business is over. + +"Since the Dutch went to Sumatra they have constructed roads, and done a +great deal for the improvement of the condition of the people. The roads +are divided into regular stages of ten or twelve miles, and if you send +on in advance you will find everything ready on your arrival, so that +you will not be delayed; but if you do not give notice beforehand, you +can only go the distance of one stage in a day, which makes your +progress very slow. At nearly every station there is a village; and if +you want to study the habits of the people, you can do so very well by +walking from one station to the next in the morning, and then strolling +about the village and neighboring regions in the afternoon. There is +always a house for strangers, and you have nothing to do but walk in and +take possession: you pay for what you have at a fixed rate. The Dutch +have been careful to adjust the prices of everything, so that there can +be no dispute. + +"Away from the rivers the houses of the natives are on poles or posts, +just as they are when built in the water. The best of them are of boards +or planks, and the more common ones of bamboo, and the floors are +covered with mats, on which you may sit or lie. They have no beds, +benches, or chairs; even in the houses of the chiefs you will see hardly +a single article of furniture. + +[Illustration: VIEW IN A SUMATRAN VILLAGE.] + +"There is a great similarity among the Sumatran villages. A village +covers several acres, and is almost always surrounded by a high fence, +to keep out the wild animals that abound in the island. The houses are +dropped down higgledy-piggledy without the least attempt at regularity, +and there is generally quite a grove of palm, banana, and other trees +around them. The best of the dwellings have their ends ornamented with +some elaborate carving in wood, and the ends of the roof rise in a +graceful curve that terminates in a point. + +"There is a curious combination of neatness and the reverse in the +habits of the people of these interior villages. The ground is hard and +clean, and the houses are frequently swept with the greatest care; but +they have no system of drainage, and the only way of disposing of refuse +of any kind is to throw it into a sink-hole under the house. The people +seem to have adhered to the custom that prevails where their houses are +built over the water, and the result is that your nose will often inform +you, before your eyes do, that you are approaching a village." + +Frank asked what birds or beasts were to be found in Sumatra. + +"You find pretty much the same as you do in Malacca or Siam," was the +reply. "There are plenty of elephants of the same species as on the +main-land, and there is any number of tigers. They are very large, and +proportionally fierce, and a great many of the natives are eaten by them +every year. They do not often attack white men, but I had a close escape +one evening from being eaten by one of them." + +"How did that happen?" + +"I had been visiting a planter of my acquaintance, and we did not +separate till about dark. I had a ride of six or eight miles before me +to reach the house where I was to stay for the night, but did not mind +it in the least, as I had been over the ground before, and had no fear +of losing my way. My friend cautioned me to look out for tigers, but I +only laughed when he said so, as I had no idea that a tiger would attack +a man on horseback. + +"I was cantering gently along, when all at once my pony began to prick +his ears and sniff the air, as though all was not right. Every moment he +was more and more uneasy, and he exerted himself to the utmost to make +good time over the road. Never in my life was I carried faster by a +horse than on that occasion. + +[Illustration: CHASED BY A TIGER.] + +"In a few minutes I heard the growl of a tiger, who was in full pursuit, +and gaining at every stride. The road led to a creek, and it occurred +to me that my whole safety consisted in reaching that creek before the +tiger reached me. I threw my hat off to amuse the beast for a moment, +and it gave my horse just the time he needed without a second to spare. +The tiger did not try to follow through the water, and when I got to the +house where I was to stay, I resolved not to venture again on that road +after dark. + +"Some of my friends were unkind enough to say that perhaps I was +mistaken in the whole matter, and that the horse took fright at a thorn +catching under the saddle-girth as we went through the jungle; so the +next morning I invited one of them to go with me to the creek, and to +the spot where I threw away my hat. The fragments of the hat were there, +where the tiger had torn it in his rage, and the tracks of the beast +were visible in the soft earth. From the extent of his foot-prints he +was evidently of the largest size, and would have made short work of a +man when once he had settled his teeth into his throat. It was the +narrowest escape I ever had in my life. I have been treed by a bear, but +the sensation was nothing compared to that of being chased by a tiger." + +"Please tell us," said Fred, "how you happened to be treed by a bear." + +"Certainly," said the gentleman; "but the story has nothing to do with +Sumatra or any other island of the Malay Archipelago. It was in America +that the incident happened. + +"I was out hunting one afternoon, and had only a small fowling-piece +loaded with bird-shot. Suddenly I came across a black bear, and very +foolishly fired at him. The shot enraged him, and he ran for me. + +[Illustration: TREED BY A BEAR.] + +"I ran a few yards, and knew that every moment he was gaining on me. I +dropped my gun, and sprung for the nearest tree; I was young and active, +and went up several feet at the first bound. It was a smooth sapling, +with the lower part quite free from limbs, and I soon found that it was +no easy matter to climb after the first spurt was over. The bear +followed me, and had the advantage of claws; and he came on faster than +was agreeable. I knew that a friend of mine was not far off, and I +shouted with all the power of my lungs. He heard me, and came to my +relief; and, just as the bear had taken me by the coat-tail, I heard a +shot, and the beast tumbled to the ground. I don't like bear-hunting in +that shape." + +Fred inquired if there were any snakes in Sumatra. + +"Yes, snakes in abundance," was the response; "and they sometimes grow +to an enormous size. In some respects, Sumatra is the paradise of +snakes, as they have a hot climate, and can always find plenty to eat." + +"What kind of snakes do they have there?" queried Fred. + +"The largest is the boa-constrictor," said the gentleman; "and I do not +believe he grows to a greater size in any other part of the world." + +"What is the greatest length you have ever known for one of these +snakes?" Frank asked. + +"The longest I ever saw was one that I killed myself. I was out hunting, +and had three or four natives to carry my gun and other things, when +suddenly one of them shouted, and pointed to a tree. + +"I looked, and saw an enormous snake coiled up there, with his head over +a limb, and evidently watching us as we approached. + +"Du Chaillu and other hunters of experience say that the best thing for +shooting a snake is not a bullet, but a charge of small shot, such as we +use in duck-hunting. So I gave my rifle to one of the natives, and +called for my fowling-piece. + +[Illustration: SHOOTING A BOA-CONSTRICTOR.] + +"I managed to get around in order to have a good aim, and ventured so +close to the snake that the natives warned me to be careful. I watched +my chance, and just as the fellow darted his head forward I fired. + +"My aim was accurate, and the snake's head was blown into a shapeless +mass. He threw himself from the tree, and writhed on the ground, while I +retired with my party to a safe distance. We watched him twisting his +body into many shapes, and tearing up the small trees and bushes as he +wound around them. In about an hour I continued my hunt, leaving one of +the natives to watch the snake, so that we could skin him when he was +done writhing. + +[Illustration: A SNAKY CREEK.] + +"Wishing to explore a small creek, I sent another of the men to bring a +boat; and he soon returned with it. It must have been a great day for +snakes, as we had not gone far before the water seemed to be alive with +them. They were of all the colors of the rainbow; and some of them had +shades that the rainbow never possessed. The largest I should judge to +have been eight or ten feet in length, but I had no opportunity to +measure him. + +"One tried to get into the boat, and I shot him just as he raised his +head over the bow; others swum close to the boat, and seemed in no hurry +to get out of our way. There was a large boa, or python, coiled around a +tree that overhung a bank; he darted his head rather defiantly, but made +no other demonstration. I was quite willing to let him alone, provided +he would be equally polite to me; and, as he manifested no intention of +attacking us, I did not fire on him. + +"We went back late in the afternoon, and found that our great boa had +ceased his twistings, and was sufficiently quiet to be skinned. He +measured thirty feet and a few inches in length, and was certainly one +of the largest of his kind. He could kill and eat an ordinary-sized cow +or bullock; and, as for a dog or monkey, he would dispose of one without +the slightest trouble. The favorite food of this snake is the monkey; +and he captures him by lying concealed among the trees, and waiting +patiently till the monkey comes within his reach." + +[Illustration: MONKEY EXAMINING A TORTOISE.] + +"Then there are monkeys in Sumatra?" said one of the boys. + +"Certainly," was the reply, "there are monkeys in abundance. The +naturalists have found no less than eleven distinct species of the +monkey family, and it is thought there are several yet undiscovered in +the forests. There is one monkey called the _simiang_, that has +tremendously long arms; Mr. Wallace measured one that was only three +feet high, but his arms were five and a half feet when stretched out. +This monkey will swing himself from one tree to another with the utmost +ease, over distances that most of the other monkeys would hardly venture +to go." + +"Do they find the variety of monkey known as the orang-outang in +Sumatra?" one of the boys asked. + +"Yes," said their informer, "the animal is found only in Sumatra and +Borneo, but he is rarely seen on the first-named island. In parts of +Borneo he is quite abundant; and the most of the specimens in the +museums all over the world came from that wild region." + +Frank asked how large was the largest of these beasts that had been +captured and measured. + +[Illustration: FEMALE ORANG-OUTANG. + +(From a Photograph.)] + +"As to that," said the gentleman, "there is a considerable conflict of +testimony. Mr. Wallace says that the largest killed by him during his +stay in Borneo was four feet two inches from head to heel; and his +outstretched arms were seven feet nine inches from tip to tip of his +fingers. The face was thirteen inches wide, and the body measured +forty-three inches around. Mr. Wallace further says that he measured +seventeen freshly-killed orangs, and the skeletons of two others; +sixteen were full-grown adults--nine males and seven females. The males +varied from four feet one inch to four feet two inches in height; and +the outstretched arms from seven feet two inches to seven feet eight +inches. The measurements of other naturalists closely agree with his, +and he therefore concludes that the stories of orangs exceeding five +feet in height are extremely doubtful. + +[Illustration: NATIVES OF BORNEO FIGHTING WITH AN ORANG-OUTANG.] + +"The natives say the orang is king of the forest, and the only animals +that venture to attack it are the crocodile and the python. They only +do so on rare occasions, and are apt to get the worst of the battle +whenever they provoke it. One of the native chiefs says that when food +is scarce in the forest, the orang goes to the banks of the streams to +feed on the lilies, and in such cases he is sometimes attacked by the +crocodile. His arms are so strong that he has been known to pull the +crocodile's jaws open, and rip up his throat; the chief claims to have +witnessed such a fight, which occurred on the bank of a stream, and was +won in a short time by the orang. + +"The same chief said that the python found his match in the orang--the +latter biting the python's throat, and tearing him with his powerful +claws. The natives have a great dread of the orang, unless they have the +advantage of fire-arms; they sometimes attack him with their spears and +hatchets, but they do so with reluctance, as some of them are apt to be +severely wounded, if not killed outright in the encounter." + +Fred wanted to know if the animal they were discussing was in the habit +of walking erect like a man, as he had seen represented in pictures. + +"The best authorities say he does not," was the reply; "and I think that +such pictures as you mention are far more imaginary than real. He spends +nearly all his time in the trees, and when he goes through the forest he +moves from one tree to another by following the limbs that interlace. He +feeds in the trees in the daytime, and sleeps there at night; his bed is +composed of leaves gathered together in the fork of a tree, and he never +remains long in one spot. The natives say he finds a new resting-place +and makes a new bed every night; but there is some doubt as to the +correctness of this theory. When he has been wounded, and feels faint +from loss of blood, he will gather a quantity of leaves and form a bed, +where he lies down and dies. In such a case the tree must be cut down to +get his body, as no amount of shaking will dislodge it; or the natives +must be hired to climb up and remove it. This they will not do readily, +as the animal has great vitality, and has been known to spring up +suddenly and do a great deal of damage after he was supposed to be +dead." + +"There are some other curious products of this tropical region," said +the narrator, "which I will endeavor to describe briefly. There is a +frog that flies through the air, and--" + +"How funny!" Fred exclaimed. "A flying-frog! He ought to be a relative +of the fish that climbs a tree, and travels on dry land." + +[Illustration: A FLYING-FROG.] + +"Whether he is a relative or not of that fish, I am unable to say," was +the reply, "but that he exists there is no doubt. He comes down from the +top of a high tree to the ground in a slanting direction, just as you +have seen a flying-squirrel go from one tree to another. His toes are +very long, and webbed to their extremities. The body of the frog is +about four inches long, and when spread out the webs of his feet have a +square surface of at least twelve inches. This is much more than he +needs for swimming, and we must, therefore, conclude that Nature has +thus equipped him so that he can fly through the air. + +"There are many varieties of butterflies in Sumatra, and some of them +are very beautiful. All the tropical islands abound in butterflies, that +arouse the enthusiasm of the naturalist by the brilliancy of their +colors and the great size they attain. There are numerous birds, +especially of the parrot family, and sometimes you will see hundreds of +them in a walk of an hour or more through the forests where they live. +The parrot is inclined to be sociable, and likes his fellow-parrots; you +will rarely see one of these birds quite alone, and when you do, you may +conclude that the occurrence is an accidental one. + +"Among the habits of birds there is none more singular than that of the +Sumatran hornbill." + +"What is that?" Frank inquired. + +"The hornbill, whose scientific name is _Buceros bicornis_, makes its +nest in a hole in a tree. When the female has laid an egg, the male +plasters up the entrance of the hole with mud, and keeps his mate there +until the young bird has been reared to the proper age for coming out in +the world." + +"How does she manage to live all that time?" said one of the boys. + +"The hole is not entirely closed," was the reply. "A small opening is +left, and through it the male bird feeds her, and he is constantly on +duty around the outside of the nest to protect her from harm. When the +young bird begins to eat, the mother takes in her beak the food which +her mate has brought, and gives the youth his proper allowance. He is a +funny-looking fellow when about half grown; his body is plump and soft, +without a single feather, and his skin is half transparent, so that you +almost expect to see through it." + +"A remarkable bird," said Fred. + +"And a remarkable country he lives in," Frank replied. + +And with this comment the conversation about Sumatra and its products +came to an end, with a vote of thanks on the part of the boys to their +amiable informant. + +[Illustration: A SUMATRAN BUTTERFLY.] + + + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +ARRIVAL IN JAVA.--SIGHTS AND SCENES IN BATAVIA. + + +At daylight the next morning the boys were on deck for their first sight +of Java. They could see nothing but a low coast, like that of Siam, with +a fringe of tropical trees, and a backing of mountains in the distance. +They had expected to go into a snug harbor, but found that the harbor of +Batavia is more imaginary than real, as it is little better than a +shallow roadstead, where ships of deep draught must anchor far from +shore. + +The steamer came to her resting-place, and the anchor went plunging down +to its muddy bed. A noisy little steam-launch came to carry the mails +ashore, but our friends were not allowed to take passage in her; they +were told there would be a steamer for the passengers in an hour or two, +or, if they preferred, they could go ashore on a native boat. + +They chose the latter conveyance, as the time of waiting for the +steamboat was a trifle uncertain; and, besides, they desired to get to +land as speedily as possible. There were a dozen boats hovering around +the steamer, and it did not take long to make a bargain; for three +florins--a Dutch florin is equal to forty cents of our money--they were +to be carried to the "Boom," or custom-house, where their baggage would +be examined, and they could find conveyance to the hotel. As soon as the +bargain was made their baggage was lowered into the boat, and they were +off. + +It was a long pull, and the sun was hot. Our friends reclined under +their umbrellas, and tried to be comfortable; and the boys wondered how +the boatmen could pull away so cheerily and not be fatigued. The Doctor +reminded them that the men had been accustomed all their lives to the +climate of Java; and what seemed very severe to strangers from the North +was nothing to those who were used to it. The men evidently understood +the subject of conversation, as they offered to pull twice as fast for +another florin; their proposal was declined, as none of the newcomers +wished to be the cause, however indirectly, of a sunstroke among the +natives. + +[Illustration: ARRIVAL IN PORT.] + +It was a journey of three miles from the steamer to the custom-house, +partly in the harbor and partly in a canal. The canal is pushed out a +considerable distance into the harbor by means of stone dikes; and the +space between these dikes is dredged to a depth of twelve or fourteen +feet. Nothing but small craft can come up to the docks; heavy sea-going +ships, whether steam or sail, must anchor in the harbor, and their +cargoes are transferred by lighters. + +As soon as they reached the end of the wall that forms the canal the +boatmen drew up against it, and for the rest of the way the boat was +towed, or "trecked." This mode of propulsion was easier and faster than +rowing, and partly accounted for the proposal of the boatmen to double +their speed, as they were near the end of their rowing when they +suggested it. At the custom-house the trunks and valises were subjected +to a slight examination; there was a polite official who spoke English; +and on learning that our friends had only come for a brief visit to +Java, and had no business to transact, he assured them that all was +right. He asked for their passports, and said it would be necessary to +get a permit to remain on the island, especially if they wished to +travel in the interior. This they could easily do, he said, through +their consul; and then he informed them that the formalities of the +custom-house were ended. + +[Illustration: THE CARRIAGE AT THE CUSTOM-HOUSE.] + +A runner was there from the hotel they intended to patronize, and so +they gave their property into his hands. It was piled on a cart and sent +off, and then the runner led the way to a carriage that was standing +near. It was a sort of Victoria, that could accommodate two persons +comfortably; and there was an extra seat just behind the driver, which +could be turned down and made to hold a third passenger in an emergency. +The horses were diminutive beasts, with harnesses in the European style; +and the driver was a withered specimen of a Javanese, wearing an ancient +hat decorated with a cockade, and having the brim turned so that it +would not impede the view in any direction. Fred thought the hat had +come from Holland about the middle of the century, after doing duty in a +respectable family of Amsterdam for at least a dozen years. Frank +remarked that the hat was hardly less antique than the head it covered; +and the skin of the one seemed as much glazed as the other. + +[Illustration: THE NATIONAL TASTE.] + +It was nearly, if not quite, three miles from the custom-house to the +hotel, and the little horses went over the ground at a surprising rate, +when their size and appearance were considered. For much of the way the +drive followed the bank of a canal, where they saw groups of men and +women engaged in washing clothes or taking a morning bath. Batavia is on +level ground, the same as Amsterdam; and the Dutch have tried to make it +seem as much like home as possible by supplying it with canals. They +have carried many of their customs with them in emigrating to the East, +and sometimes to their disadvantage. For instance, they adhere with +unflinching firmness to the old practice of taking a glass of _schnapps_ +before every meal, forgetting that what may be allowable in a cold +country is the reverse of beneficial in a hot one. Our friends reached +the hotel a little while before the mid-day meal was served, and they +were hardly inside the door of their rooms before a servant came with +glasses of a fiery liquid to enable them to get up an appetite. He was +somewhat surprised when they declined what was considered so necessary +to the health. + +The hotel covered an immense area, as it consisted of a series of +bungalows of one story, with a central building, where the dining-room +and the offices of the manager were located. Between the rows of +bungalows there were shade-trees and paved walks, and along the front of +each house there was a wide veranda, where the occupants could sit or +recline in the open air whenever they chose to do so. The central +building was two stories high; all the lower part was taken up for the +dining-room and parlors, while the upper floor was occupied by patrons. +Our friends were assigned to rooms in one of the bungalows, and a +barefooted servant came to assist them in arranging their effects, and +bring whatever they desired. + +[Illustration: THEIR SERVANT.] + +The servant was of a type new to our friends, and Frank proceeded to +make a sketch of him at the first opportunity. He was a Javanese Malay, +with features not unlike those of the Malays of Singapore, but his dress +was different. He wore trousers of striped cotton, rather narrow in the +legs, and without any nicety of fit; above the trousers he had a gaudy +shirt, with an embroidered front, and a short jacket of material similar +to that of the trousers. Wrapped around his waist, and falling to the +knee, he had a skirt that appeared to have been cut from the gayest +piece of calico that ever came from the looms of Manchester or Lowell; +and it was held in place by a belt. This part of the Malay wardrobe is +called a _sarong_, and is worn by both sexes; it is usually fastened by +tying a knot in one corner, and then drawing the sarong tightly around +the waist. The knot is passed under the straightened edge of the +garment, and is not likely to slip out of place. + +Accompanying this servant there was a small boy whose business it was to +bring cigars, and fire for lighting them. It seemed to Frank and Fred +that the Dutchmen of Batavia were smoking all the time; and Fred +suggested that, if the days were as long, there would be exactly as much +smoking. + +Breakfast was served in the room we have mentioned, and Doctor Bronson +and the boys were shown to the seats assigned to them. Frank made a +discovery that amused him greatly, and was equally entertaining to his +cousin when he learned of it. It was so unlike the custom of any hotel +he had ever seen, that he made a note of it to include in his next +letter. Here it is: + +"The three of us have one servant; and, as far as I can see, he waits on +no one else. In each of our rooms there is a little closet, and in this +closet there are knives, forks, spoons, plates, etc., for one person. +Before breakfast or dinner our servant takes these things to the general +table, and when the meal is over he brings them back again, and returns +them to their places in the closets. He is responsible for breakage, and +is required to keep the articles clean. The only dishes that go to the +kitchen of the hotel are the platters, tureens, and similar things, on +which the food is brought from the place of cooking." + +Fred was busy with his eyes and ears during breakfast, and contributed +to the general fund of information as follows: + +"The first solid meal of the day in Batavia is called the _rys-taffel_, +or rice-table. It is served about eleven o'clock; and its name goes far +to describe its character, as it consists largely of rice. This is the +way they serve it: + +"The rice is boiled in such a way that each grain is separate from every +other. It is served hot in a large dish, and you help yourself into a +soup-plate of goodly size. + +[Illustration: THE MANGO.] + +"One servant hands you the rice, and when you have filled your plate +with it another servant offers you a round platter or tray, eighteen or +twenty inches across, and divided into a dozen compartments. These +compartments contain various seasonings, and you may take any or all, or +none of them, at your pleasure, and in quantities to suit you. You have +chutney, which is a sharp sauce from India; you have red or green +peppers, cut into a fine hash, red pepper mixed with water to form a +paste, cocoa-nut grated fine, preserved ginger-root, sliced mangoes, +English pickles, salt fish dried to a crisp, capers, and other hot and +spicy things peculiar to the East. + +"When you have taken what you want from the tray, the servant moves on, +and another takes his place. He offers you soft eggs, either boiled or +poached, and you are expected to take one or two of the eggs to mix with +your rice. Then comes a servant with a plate of some kind of meat, cut +into small pieces, and stewed with curry-powder; and behind him is +another servant with a plate of some kind of vegetable, which has been +stewed in curry. Then they offer you cold chicken or ham, or some other +meat, to put on a small plate at your side, and your supply of food is +completed, with the addition of all the bread you want. You mix all the +things you have in your large soup-plate into a thick mass, like yellow +paste, and eat with a spoon. + +[Illustration: A LITTLE TOO PEPPERY.] + +"This is the famous Java curry; and if you have taken plenty of the +pepper and chutney, and other hot things, your mouth will burn for half +an hour as though you had drunk from a kettle of boiling water. And when +you have eaten freely of curry, you don't want any other breakfast. +Everybody eats curry here daily, because it is said to be good for the +health by keeping the liver active, and preventing fevers." + +After breakfast our friends went to their rooms, and soon afterwards met +on the veranda to arrange plans for seeing Batavia. Somewhat to their +surprise, they learned that it was not fashionable to be seen out till +three o'clock in the afternoon, and they must not call on any one during +the middle of the day. The Doctor said that the Dutch and other foreign +inhabitants of the city were supposed to sleep two or three hours while +the sun was high in the heavens; but as they were strangers, and had +little time at their disposal, they would get a carriage and take a +drive. + +[Illustration: AFTER BREAKFAST.] + +Neither ladies nor gentlemen are visible in Batavia between breakfast +and three P.M.; or if they show themselves they are not acting according +to custom. They lounge in bed or hammock, or in their bamboo arm-chairs, +and try to get as much rest as possible to fit them for the fatigues of +the evening. It is this habit of sleeping in the daytime that enables +the fashionable Batavians to keep very late hours. They are accustomed +to rise early; and by five o'clock in the morning half the people in the +hotel were out of bed, and the rest of them before six. + +[Illustration: AN EARLY CALL.] + +Frank and Fred were awakened on their first morning in Batavia before +they thought the hour of rising had arrived. The Doctor told them they +had best conform to the custom, and so they crept from their beds and +prepared to dress. + +"That is unnecessary," said the Doctor; "it is perfectly proper for you +to come out in your sleeping-suits, and sit in front of your rooms, or +go to your baths. You will find that is what everybody else is doing." + +Accordingly they made their appearance in their pajamas, and found that +the servant was ready to attend upon them. All around they could hear +men calling _"api!_" "_api!_" and they naturally asked what "api" meant. + +"It is the Malay word for 'light' or 'fire,'" said the Doctor; "and the +call you hear is for a light for a cigar or cigarette." + +When they went to the row of bath-rooms fronting their apartments, the +boys looked for bathing-tubs, but found none. Each bath-room had a +faucet whence water could be drawn, or it contained a barrel and a +dipper, but no other furniture. + +The bathing custom in Java is to pour water over the body, and not to +plunge into a tub. A tub can be had by any one who asks for it; but he +runs the risk of being considered a barbarian, who cannot be weaned from +the absurd customs of his native land. + +After the bath came the "little breakfast," as it is called by the +residents, consisting of tea or coffee, with eggs or cold meat, and a +few biscuits. When this was ended Doctor Bronson ordered a carriage, and +the morning hours were devoted to a drive. + +"We have not quite time," said the Doctor, "to exhaust a single course +with the carriage between this and the hour for the rys taffel." + +The boys could not understand his meaning, until he explained that the +rules governing the hire of carriages in Batavia are somewhat curious. +"The tariff for a Victoria," said he, "is four florins or +guilders--about one dollar and sixty cents of our money, and if you only +ride a few blocks you must pay that price. But you can, if you choose, +keep it for six hours without any extra charge, except that the driver +will expect an allowance of an hour or so to rest his horses, and a +little money for himself by way of remembrance." + +"What an odd arrangement!" said Frank. + +Fred agreed with him fully, and probably every traveller who visits +Batavia will not be long in coming to the same conclusion. + +"When I was here before," continued the Doctor, "I took a carriage one +morning for the customary six hours, and went out for a drive. At the +end of three hours I returned to the hotel for breakfast, and told the +driver he could have an hour to himself and then return. He did not come +again, and when I asked at the office of the hotel the manager said he +would investigate the affair. In the evening he told me he had seen the +driver, and paid him, and his reason for not returning was that his +horses were tired. + +"I thought no more of the matter till I settled my bill the next day, +preparatory to going into the country, and found that the full tariff of +four guilders had been charged for the carriage. I protested that the +man was not entitled to that amount, because he had not given me the +stipulated service. The manager said he had paid the bill because that +was the law; and he added that the driver would have served me the full +time if his horses had not been tired. + +"In vain did I protest that I had been unjustly treated; the only answer +I could get from the manager was, 'The driver's horses were tired--his +horses were tired.' I vowed that the next time I employed a carriage in +Batavia I would adhere rigidly to the law, and keep it in my sight for +the full six hours, whether I wanted it or not. If the driver serves us +well to-day, perhaps he will get an allowance; but if he is obstinate, +as these Malay drivers sometimes are, I shall feel like enforcing the +law to the letter." + +They were fortunate in finding a very amiable driver, who did his best +to make the strangers enjoy their ride. He spoke only the Malay +language; but, in spite of the absence of a common tongue, he managed to +make them understand his explanations, and to show them a good deal of +Batavia. The result was that they gave him an hour to spare, and an +extra florin for the trouble he had taken. + +Here is what Frank wrote in his note-book concerning their first +morning's ride in Batavia: + +[Illustration: NATIVE HOUSE ON THE RIVER THAT FEEDS THE CANAL.] + +"Batavia covers a great extent of ground, and is fairly entitled to be +called a city of magnificent distances. The old city near the sea is +rather closely built, but it is not inhabited by Europeans to any +extent. The Dutch, English, and other foreign merchants transact +business there during the day; but they live in the new part of Batavia, +which spreads over the flat ground for several square miles. The houses +are rarely of more than one story, as the country is subject to +earthquakes, and nobody wants to have a flight of stairs between him +and the ground when these shakings begin. Nearly every house has a +_campong_, or yard, around it, and this yard is filled with tropical +trees in considerable variety. The great streets and roads are liberally +provided with shade-trees, so that Batavia can hardly be seen, owing to +the impossibility of peering through the dense foliage that is before +you at every step. + +"A canal with several branches runs through all this level area that +they call Batavia, and for miles and miles it is built up with solid +stone walls. It is fed by a small river coming down from the mountains, +and serves a triple purpose: boats may navigate it; people may bathe +there, or wash clothes in it; and the sewage of the city is said to be +drained into it. Whether the water for household use is taken from it or +not, I am unable to say; but we repeatedly saw Malay servants filling +buckets with it, and then walking off in the direction of the houses. +Circumstantial evidence was against them; but the clerk of the hotel +says the water they were carrying was to be used for washing the floors +of the houses and sprinkling the gravel-walks in the court-yards. +Perhaps it is the suspicion that the water may be used for drinking +purposes that leads so many of the inhabitants to shun it, and take +seltzer, gin, claret, and other imported liquids to quench their thirst. + +"They have a street railway here, but it is patronized only by the +natives, the Chinese, and the low class of foreigners. The track is good +enough, but the cars are the wildest contrivances you ever saw; they are +common freight-cars fitted with rush seats, and their great weight makes +them difficult to move along the way. Perhaps, if they had the proper +kind of cars, the Europeans would ride in them, but they could hardly +expect to patronize those now in use. + +"It was a funny sight, when we were driving along the streets, to see +the ladies out for their morning promenade, with their hair streaming +down their shoulders, their bodies enclosed only in light wrappers, with +loose sacks buttoned to the throat, and with slippers, but no stockings, +on their feet. Most of them wore the sarong, or native petticoat, and +they generally carried parasols to keep off the sun. This is the +forenoon costume of the ladies before they go to breakfast, and it +strikes a foreigner as very odd. + +[Illustration: FAMILY PARTY IN BATAVIA.] + +"Sometimes we saw a whole family sitting on the veranda of a house, in +full view of everybody passing along the street, looking as if they had +just got out of bed and were only half dressed. The men would be in +dressing-gowns or pajamas, and the ladies with their hair down, as I +have described, or twisted up into tight little lumps, so that the +owners might appear in the afternoon with a fine stock of curls. +Occasionally we saw some fat, jolly old women with their hair cut close +to the head, in order to keep off as much of the heat as possible. + +[Illustration: FAN-PALM IN THE BOTANICAL GARDEN.] + +"We visited the museum and the botanical garden, and found them quite +interesting. The museum contains the products of Java, arranged so that +you can readily see what the resources of the island are; and there are +relics of ancient times that throw light upon the history of the country +and its people. The botanical garden abounds in tropical plants, and +reminded us of the garden at Singapore; but we had not time to make a +list of its contents. We saw some fine specimens of a tree that had +already attracted our attention at Singapore--the 'fan-palm,' or +traveller's fountain, as it is called. It spreads out like a huge fan, +with the lower part of the stalks quite bare, while the ends are formed +exactly like feathers. A small tree of this species would make a very +good fan for a giant, such as we read of in Gulliver's travels. + +[Illustration: CHINESE PORTERS.] + +"In the old part of Batavia we saw so many Chinese that it would not +have required a great stretch of the imagination to believe that we +were once more in the Flowery Kingdom. In one of the narrowest streets +we met a couple of Chinese porters carrying a burden suspended from a +pole, the same as we had seen them in Canton and Shanghai, and if it had +not been that our driver was very careful we might have run over them. +The Chinese are very numerous in Batavia, and all through Java, and a +great deal of the commercial business of the country is in their hands. +They are engaged in all kinds of trade where money is to be made, and +they have the same guilds and commercial associations that they have in +Singapore, Hong-kong, and elsewhere. They have their temples and idols +just as at home; and though many of them were born in Java, and will +probably never see the soil of China, they are as thoroughly Chinese as +though they were reared within the walls of Canton. + +[Illustration: GODDESS OF SAILORS AND HER ASSISTANTS.] + +"One of the most common of the Chinese temples is that of the goddess +'Ma-Chu,' who is worshipped by sailors and those having business on the +water. She is represented with her two assistants; one of them is called +'Favorable-Wind-Ear,' and the other 'Thousand-Mile-Eye.' The first is +supposed to have an ear that can catch the least indication of a wind to +favor the sailor; and the latter possesses a clearness of vision that +enables him to see a rock or other danger at the distance of a thousand +miles. One listens, while the other looks; and between them they are +believed able to insure a safe and speedy voyage to all their +worshippers." + +As our friends were somewhat wearied with their morning's work, they +remained in-doors from the time of the "rys-taffel" till three o'clock. +Then they followed the custom of the country by taking a bath, and +dressing for dinner; and after dinner they continued to be in fashion by +taking another drive. We will let Fred tell the story of what they saw +in the afternoon and evening. + +"The fashionable hour for a promenade is after dinner, and all the +ladies and gentlemen consider it their duty to come out and be seen. +There are plenty of carriages on the streets, and also a goodly number +of gentlemen on horseback; and it is rather a pretty sight to see the +gentlemen riding along by the carriages and chatting with the ladies +inside. Then there are many pedestrians--the ladies being in light +walking-dresses, and the gentlemen in full evening costume. The odd +thing about the promenades is that both sexes are bareheaded. This is +all well enough for the ladies; but it is rather strange to see a +gentleman in full dress, and carrying a cane along the street, with his +head as bare as though he was in a parlor. I am told that the ladies +never wear hats or bonnets, and that the only thing of that sort ever +seen in Batavia is when foreigners first arrive here from other parts of +the world. A ladies' hat-store in Batavia would not be a paying +speculation. + +"On certain evenings there is music on the King's Square; and at such +times everybody goes there to hear it. The crowd is large but very +fashionable, as it is the proper thing to go there; and no one who can +get out will venture to miss the performance. The band stops playing a +little after dark, and then the drive may be said to be at its +prettiest. The footman of each carriage carries a torch made of some +resinous plant tied into a bundle, like a wisp of straw, and, as the +carriages move around and pass and repass each other, the scene is a +curious one. All the houses are a blaze of light, as the wide verandas +are hung with lamps, and the whole family is gathered there when not out +for the drive. The veranda is the general sitting-room, as everybody +prefers it to the parlor on account of its being so much cooler. + +"Perhaps you are wondering when the men find time for business. Well, +they transact most of it in the forenoon, but their offices are open in +the afternoon in charge of the clerks. For the clerks there is no such +resting-time as I have described, or at best, only a short one, in the +middle of the day. When a young man comes out here to seek his fortune, +he must do pretty much as he would at home for the first year or two; +when he is fairly established, he can have his time in the middle of the +day, and live like other people." + + + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +BATAVIA TO BUITENZORG.--TROPICAL SCENES.--BIRDS OF PARADISE. + + +As their time in Java was limited, our friends determined to cut short +their stay in Batavia, and go at once to the interior. Accordingly, the +morning following the day whose history was narrated in the last chapter +saw them leaving the city by railway for Buitenzorg. + +Buitenzorg is about forty miles from Batavia, and the summer residence +of the Governor-general of Java; as it is summer all the year round in +Java, he spends most of his time at this country-seat, and rarely visits +Batavia except when business calls him there. The name is of Dutch +origin, and signifies "without care," in imitation of the French _Sans +Souci_. It is about one thousand feet above the level of the sea, and +much cooler than Batavia; and the surrounding region is one of great +natural beauty. + +[Illustration: SOME OF THE THIRD-CLASS PASSENGERS.] + +Doctor Bronson and his young companions were early at the +railway-station, and purchased their tickets for the journey. They found +three classes of carriages on the road; the first and second being +patronized by foreigners, and the third class exclusively by natives and +Chinese. For their first-class tickets they paid six florins and thirty +cents--equal to two dollars and a half of our money. The second-class +ticket costs half as much as the first, and the third half as much as +the second, so that the natives are able to ride for about a cent and a +half per mile. The third-class carriages were crowded to such an extent +that Frank and Fred both remarked that the Javanese were as prompt as +the Japanese to recognize the value of the railway. Men and women were +closely packed on the rough seats of the carriages of the third class, +while those in the first and second, especially the former, had plenty +of room. + +"I suppose this is so the world over," said Fred, as he contemplated the +difference between the accommodations of the various classes on the +train. + +"Everywhere we have been, at any rate," responded Frank. + +"Whatever accommodations you wish and can pay for," said the Doctor, +"you can have. If you want a special train at the price they demand, you +can have it by paying in advance." + +"It is the same in Java as in Europe, and, to a certain extent, we have +similar arrangements in America. We are more democratic in our ways than +any other country of importance, and consequently have been slower to +make the distinctions in railway travel that exist in other parts of the +world. But we are steadily moving in that direction, and in time we will +have all the distinctions of classes--special trains and all. In fact, +we have them already." + +"Aren't you mistaken, Doctor?" said Fred. "Surely we do not have three +classes on our railways at home." + +"Stop and think a moment," answered the Doctor, while there was a +suggestion of a smile about his face. "We have the ordinary railway +carriage and the Pullman car, have we not?" + +"Certainly," was the reply; "and they are virtually two classes." + +"Quite right. Then, on the principal lines of railway there are the +emigrant trains, are there not?" + +Fred acknowledged that the Doctor had the best of the argument, and the +conversation came to an abrupt termination, as it was time for them to +take their places in the carriage. + +Away they started for their first ride on a railway-train south of the +equator. The suburbs of the city were speedily passed, and then the +train plunged into a tropical forest. The grade became steep as the +hilly ground was reached, and two locomotives were necessary for a part +of the way to pull the train up the heavy incline. Frank observed that +the carriages were quite narrow, and he found by measuring, at the first +station where they stopped, that the rails were only three and a half +feet apart. The present terminus of the line is at Buitenzorg; but +surveys have been made, and it is the intention to push the line forward +and form a connection with the system of railway in the eastern part of +the island. When this is done, a stranger will be able to travel the +whole length of Java by rail, as he can now travel by wagon road. + +[Illustration: VIEW IN A PRIVATE GARDEN.] + +Since the railway from Batavia to Buitenzorg was opened several villages +have sprung into existence along the line, and some of them are quite +pretty. They contain the residences of gentlemen whose business is at +Batavia, and are generally arranged with excellent taste. The gardens +are luxuriant, like nearly all gardens in the tropics; and some of the +owners delight in adding wild animals to their collections of trees and +plants. + +[Illustration: NATIVE VILLAGE NEAR THE RAILWAY.] + +Then there are native villages in considerable number, some of them +concealed in the forest, and others standing in little clearings, where +the trees form an agreeable background. The train stopped frequently, +and did not seem to be in a hurry, although it was called an express, +and was the fastest on the line. Frank said that probably the heat of +the tropics had the same influence on a locomotive as on a man, and +prevented its going rapidly. Fred said that Frank's reasoning reminded +him of the boy at school, who was asked to give an illustration of the +expanding power of heat, and the contracting power of cold. + +"What did he do?" Frank inquired. + +"Why," responded Fred, "he thought for some minutes over the matter, and +finally answered that the days in winter were not nearly as long as +those in summer, and it must be the cold that contracted them." + +[Illustration: TROPICAL GROWTHS ALONG THE LINE.] + +The boys observed that the trees in some instances grew quite close to +the track. Doctor Bronson explained to them that in the tropics it was +no small matter to keep a railway-line clear of trees and vines, and +sometimes the vines would grow over the track in a single night. It was +necessary to keep men at work along the track, to cut away the +vegetation where it threatened to interfere with the trains, and in the +rainy season the force of men was sometimes doubled. "There is one good +effect," said he, "of this luxuriant growth. The roots of the vines and +trees become interlaced in the embankment on which the road is built, +and prevent its being washed away by heavy rains. So you see there is, +after all, a saving in keeping the railway in repair." + +Frank noticed that some of the telegraph-poles had little branches +growing from them; and at one place he saw a man near the top of a pole +engaged in cutting the limbs away. He called the attention of his +companions to the novel sight. + +"You will see more of those trees as you go into the interior," said the +Doctor. "They grow with great rapidity; and unless the wood is +thoroughly seasoned before the poles are set in the ground, they +speedily take root and become trees again. They are more pertinacious +than our American water-willows, as they will grow in any soil, wet or +dry. Wherever a clearing is made in the forest these trees spring up as +if by magic; and they run up so tall and straight as to be just what is +wanted for telegraph uses." + +[Illustration: "MANGOSTEENS!"] + +At several of the stations the natives offered fruit of different kinds, +and nearly all new to our young friends. They had been told that they +would probably find the mangosteen for sale along the road; they had +inquired for it in Singapore, but it was not in season there, and now +their thoughts were bent upon discovering it between Batavia and +Buitenzorg. Two or three times they were disappointed when they asked +for it; but finally, at one of the stations, when Fred pronounced the +word "mangosteen," a native held up a bunch of fruit and nodded. The +Doctor looked at the bunch, and nodded likewise, and Fred speedily paid +for the prize. + +Perhaps we had best let Fred tell the story of the mangosteen, which he +did in his first letter from Buitenzorg: + +"We have found the prince of fruits, and its name is mangosteen. It is +about the size of a pippin apple, and of a purple color--a very dark +purple, too. The husk, or rind, is about half an inch thick, and +contains a bitter juice, which is used in the preparation of dye; it +stains the fingers like aniline ink, and is not easy to wash off. Nature +has wisely provided this protection for the fruit; if it had no more +covering than the ordinary skin of an apple, the birds would eat it all +up as soon as it was ripe. If I were a bird, and had a bill that would +open the mangosteen, I would eat nothing else as long as I could get at +it. + +"You cut this husk with a sharp knife right across the centre, and then +you open it in two parts. Out comes a lump of pulp as white as snow, and +about the size of a small peach. It is divided into sections like the +interior of an orange, and there is a sort of star on the outside that +tells you, before you cut the husk, exactly how many of these sections +there are. Having got at the pulp, you proceed to take the lump into +your mouth and eat it; and you will be too busy for the next quarter of +a minute to say anything. + +"Hip! hip! hurrah! It melts away in your mouth like an over-ripe peach +or strawberry; it has a taste that is slightly acid--very slightly, +too--but you can no more describe all the flavor of it than you can +describe how a canary sings, or a violet smells. There is no other fruit +I ever tasted that begins to compare with it, though I hesitate to admit +that there is anything to surpass our American strawberry in its +perfection, or the American peach. If you could get all the flavors of +our best fruits in one, and then give that one the 'meltingness' of the +mangosteen, perhaps you might equal it; but till you can do so, there is +no use denying that the tropics have the prince of fruits. + +"Everybody tells us we can eat all the mangosteens we wish to, without +the slightest fear of ill results. Perhaps one might get weary of them +in time, but at present we are unable to find enough of them. If +anything would reconcile me to a permanent residence in the tropics, it +would be the hope of always having plenty of mangosteens at my command. + +"You may think," Fred added, "that I have taken a good deal of space for +describing this fruit, but I assure you I have not occupied half what it +deserves. And if you were here you would agree with me, and be willing +to give it all the space at your command--in and beyond your mouth. But +be careful and have it fully ripe; green mangosteens are apt to produce +colic, as Frank can tell you of his own knowledge." + +[Illustration: VERANDA OF THE HOTEL BELLEVUE.] + +The train reached Buitenzorg, and deposited our three travellers at the +station. They had been recommended to the Hotel Bellevue, and were soon +whirling along the road to that establishment. It proved a sort of +pocket edition of the hotel at Batavia, as it was scattered over a +considerable area; and they had to go out-of-doors to pass from their +rooms to the dining-hall, but they found it had a delightful situation, +as it was on the slope of a hill overlooking a thickly-wooded valley. + +[Illustration: VIEW FROM THE VERANDA AT BUITENZORG.] + +In describing the scene from the veranda in front of his rooms, Frank +wrote as follows: + +"Our vision sweeps an area of several miles, beginning with a valley, +and ending with a high mountain that was once an active volcano. There +are all the tropical trees imaginable in the valley before me. Without +changing my position in my chair, I can see cocoa-palms with their +clusters of fruit, betel-palms with tufts of green at the ends of tall +trunks like flag-staffs, banana, bread-fruit, plantain, mangosteen, +durian, and many other kinds of trees whose names I have not yet +learned. It is the richest tropical scene that has yet come under my +eyes. + +[Illustration: A BAD ROAD.] + +"And, as if they were not rich enough in leafy decorations, the trees +are adorned with numerous parasites, some in the form of creeping vines, +and others in clusters and tufts springing from the crevices in the +bark, where the winds and birds have deposited the seeds. Nourishment +for these parasites come from the air, or from the trees to which they +cling; sometimes the vines send down long threads which reach the +ground, where they attach themselves and throw out roots. At a little +distance they look like ropes, and you gaze at them in wonder. I have +seen some of them more than fifty feet long, and about the size of my +wrist; sometimes they are very thick and closely interlaced, so that it +is no easy matter to ride or walk in a forest where they abound. + +"As in Siam and Cochin China, the parasites frequently cause the death +of the trees to which they cling; but the growth of trees is so rapid, +and there is such an abundance of them, that nobody seems to have any +sympathy for the victims in this matter of vegetable murder. + +[Illustration: THE VANDA LOWII.] + +"Orchids are in great variety, and some of them are exceedingly +beautiful. There is one known as the Vanda Lowii, which is described by +Mr. Wallace in his account of the Malay Archipelago. It grows on the +lower branches of trees, and its threads are often six or eight feet +long, and strung with flowers that vary in color from orange to red. +These flowers are often three inches across, and their brilliancy is +increased by the gloominess of the forests where they are found. +Sometimes twenty or thirty flowers may be found on a single thread, and +they form a regular spiral, as though strung there by hand. + +"In other places you will see orchids like bright tufts of green +clinging to the bark of the trees, and apparently forming a part of it. +The botanists have found more than twenty varieties of this strange +production of nature in Java alone, and probably a more careful +examination will reveal many more. + +"Some of the trees throw out shoots from their limbs, which ultimately +take root and form separate trunks. The most notable example of this is +the verengen: there is one of these trees in the governor's park, which +has thrown out so many roots that it forms of itself quite a grove. It +belongs, I presume, to the same family of tree as the famous banian of +India, and to trees of other name but similar characteristics in other +parts of the world. + +"One of the most remarkable trees in the Malay Archipelago is said to +begin its growth in mid-air. Can you guess how it does so? + +[Illustration: A TREE GROWING IN MID-AIR.] + +"Originally the birds carry the seed of a certain parasite and drop it +in the fork of a tall tree. The parasite throws out its branches into +the air like other trees, and sends its roots downwards till they reach +the ground. They spread as they descend, and form a sort of pyramid +fifty or sixty feet high, and so shaped that you can often stand inside +and have the body of the tree directly over your head. As the parasite +grows it wraps itself around the parent tree, and ultimately kills it; +and in this moist climate the dead trunk decays so rapidly that in a few +years there is hardly a trace of it left. The branches of the new tree +throw out roots of their own that go down to the ground and fasten +themselves, and every year sees several new ones. We have no tree like +this in the United States, at least none that I know of. + +"There is a small river flowing through the valley in front of where I +am writing; it comes from the mountains several miles away, and we can +trace its course by the little openings it makes in the forest. For a +few hundred yards we have it in full view, and then it makes a bend +right at the foot of the hill where the hotel stands, and disappears +among the tropical trees. Where it first comes into our range of vision +there is a bridge thrown across it, and every little while, we can see +the natives passing and repassing to and from a village that is +concealed under the trees. Very often we see them bathing in the stream, +or washing clothes there; when the bathers are a group of boys there is +a great deal of fun and laughter, and the scene is quite as jolly when +there is a lot of girls in the water. They can swim like ducks, and are +constantly playing harmless little tricks on each other, and sometimes +in the afternoon their laughter is steadily ringing in our ears. The +Javanese Malays are a happy people, if I may judge by the inhabitants of +this little village, and they are as fond of the water as so many +beavers. + +"Before we left Batavia we were told that we should have rain here every +afternoon at three o'clock. Fred and I laughed at the suggestion, but +the Doctor did not; and we found, on arriving, that we had laughed too +soon. Really it rains every afternoon, and it does not vary twenty +minutes either way from three o'clock. The clouds form over the mountain +in the distance, and then they come sweeping on and on till they reach +this spot. The rain comes down first in a sprinkle, then in a shower, +and then in a pour, as though some great flood-gates in the sky had been +opened as wide as possible, to give the water a chance. The rain lasts +from one to three hours, and then the clouds go away and the sky is +clear. Sometimes there is a chance for a promenade just about sunset, +and sometimes not; in any event, the grass is so wet that we can only +follow the roads if we would avoid coming home with our feet soaked. + +"We have arranged our plans in such a way as to do our sight-seeing in +the forenoon, and devote the afternoon to writing and sleeping. + +[Illustration: GROUP OF BIRDS IN THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO.] + +"We have visited the remarkable garden attached to the governor's +residence, and seen the rare collection of specimens of the animal and +vegetable life of the Malay Archipelago; and the more we see of it, the +more do we wish to see. There are tigers and other animals, that it is +better to see in cages than to meet at home in the forest; there are +snakes in good variety; there are tanks containing a great number of +fresh-water fishes; and last, but not least, there is a splendid +collection of birds. I never knew what a variety of birds and what +curious ones there are in the islands of the Java Sea, till I saw this +collection here. + +"You have heard of the birds of paradise, haven't you? They have some of +them here, but not all the different kinds, as they are difficult to +capture, and very difficult to keep alive after they have been taken. + +"These birds are not natives of Java, but come from the Moluccas and +other islands farther to the east. They were first called paradise birds +by the writers of three hundred years ago, and some of the Portuguese +and Dutch travellers told a good many fables about them. John Van +Linschoten, who wrote in 1598, says that 'no one has seen these birds +alive, for they live in the air, always turning towards the sun, and +never lighting on the earth till they die; for they have neither feet +nor wings, as may be seen by the birds carried to India, and sometimes +to Holland.' More than a hundred years later, an English writer, who saw +some specimens at Amboyna, was told that they came to Banda to eat +nutmegs, by which they became intoxicated and fell down senseless. + +"We were disappointed in the size of the birds in the governor's garden, +as we had supposed that the bird of paradise was very large. But we +found they were only moderate-sized, and resembled crows and ravens in +their general appearance and habits, but not at all in their plumage. +Instead of being of a solemn black, like their cousins I have mentioned, +they have the most extraordinary arrangement of feathers that any bird +can boast. Mr. Wallace says that several species have large tufts of +delicate, bright-colored feathers springing from each side of the body +beneath the wings, forming trains, or fans, or shields; and the middle +feathers of the tail are often elongated into wires, twisted into +fantastic shapes, or adorned with the most brilliant metallic tints. In +another set of species these plumes spring from the head, the back, or +the shoulders; while the intensity of color and of metallic lustre +displayed by their plumage is not to be equalled by any other birds +except, perhaps, the humming-birds, and is not surpassed by these. + +"The largest of these birds is known as the Great Bird of Paradise, and +is seventeen or eighteen inches from the point of the beak to the end of +his tail. There is nothing remarkable about his body, wings, and tail, +which are of a deep brown color, varying somewhat in shade, while the +head and neck are of a pale yellow. The wonderful things are the plumes +that spring from each side beneath the wings; they are sometimes two +feet long, and of a bright orange-color tinged with gold; and they can +be raised and spread out at the pleasure of the owner like the tail of a +peacock. When they are thus extended you can hardly see the body of the +bird, as they seem to envelop it completely; and if you are hunting him, +and ready for a shot, you must guess how much of what you see is bird +and how much feathers. It is only the male bird that gets himself up so +gorgeously; the female is a plain-looking creature, of a uniform brown +color, without a bit of ornament anywhere. She might be mistaken for a +crow that had been left overnight in a coffee-pot. + +[Illustration: MAGNIFICENT BIRD OF PARADISE.] + +[Illustration: SUPERB BIRD OF PARADISE.] + +"Then there is the Red Bird of Paradise, which is somewhat smaller than +the one I have just described, and comes from a small island off the +coast of New Guinea. There is the Magnificent Bird of Paradise, from the +main-land of New Guinea, which has a tuft or fan of yellow feathers +springing from the back of his neck, and shading his shoulders; and his +tail contains two long feathers, each curving outwards, so that it forms +a circle. Fred said that these tail-feathers looked like the handles of +a pair of scissors, and he wondered if the bird could be taken up by +them. The Superb Bird of Paradise has a plumage of glossy black, and is +not unlike a crow, so far as his body is concerned; but he has a +remarkable shield on his breast of stiff, narrow feathers, very glossy, +and of a bright tinge of bluish green. On his head he has another and +larger shield, of a velvety black color, and tinged with purple and +bronze. This shield is longer than the wings, and gives the bird a most +extraordinary appearance. + +[Illustration: SIX-SHAFTED BIRD OF PARADISE.] + +[Illustration: LONG-TAILED BIRD OF PARADISE.] + +"Mr. Wallace mentions no less than eighteen varieties of the birds of +paradise. I have not time to describe all of them, and believe I have +told you of those that are the most remarkable. All of them are very +pretty, and would be a fine addition to a public or private museum. +There is one known as the Six-shafted Bird of Paradise that has six +little wires springing from the forehead, and extending over the body to +the tip of the tail. These wires have little tufts at the ends, but for +the rest of the way they are as bare as knitting-needles. There is +another, called the Long-tailed Bird of Paradise, and it is partially +described by its name, as its tail is very long, and of the most +brilliant colors. Then it has a tuft of blue and green plumes springing +from each side of the breast in such a way that when the bird is +standing on a tree the position of the wings is entirely concealed. + +"Perhaps you have heard enough about the birds of the Malay Archipelago +for the present. The rain promises to be over in a little while, and we +may be able to take a sunset walk. Of one thing we are certain: there +will be no dust on the road, and the grass will be beautifully green." + + + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +A CHAPTER ON POLITICAL ECONOMY.--THE DUTCH CULTURE SYSTEM IN JAVA. + + +For several days Frank and Fred, accompanied by the genial Doctor, made +excursions in the neighborhood of Buitenzorg in the forenoon, and +remained in-doors, during the rainy period, in the afternoon. A good +many things came under their observation; they studied the agriculture +in the region around the summer capital, and learned all they could +about the manners and customs of the people. They investigated the +peculiarities of the Dutch dominion over Java, and were much interested +in the problem of governing seventeen millions of Asiatics with thirty +thousand Europeans in such a way as to keep the millions perfectly +content with the new rule, and enable a handsome amount of money to go +every year from Java to the treasury of Holland. + +The rainy afternoons were spent in reading, drawing, writing, and +conversation; and the boys soon learned that the time in-doors was by no +means without value. They formed an acquaintance with several gentlemen +who were stopping at the hotel for the sake of the breezes, that were +cooler than those of the sea-coast. Many of the foreign residents of +Batavia are in the habit of going frequently to Buitenzorg, as a New +Yorker goes to Saratoga; and this recreation is so much the fashion that +several hotels do a very good business in providing for their wants. The +Bellevue was one of the popular resorts, and it happened that there was +quite a party of Batavians there at the same time as our friends. + +While making notes of their visit to the governor's garden, the boys +began drawing pictures of the elephant as he would appear when developed +according to the theories of Doctor Darwin. Frank made the Yankee +elephant with the traditional garments and jack-knife, and Fred followed +it with a Chinese elephant peddling cigars from a small box. Frank +designed the operatic elephant entertaining an audience with a song, and +was immediately followed by Fred with the elephant in love, engaged in +a serenade. Of course there was no allusion to Frank's frequent thoughts +of somebody at home, and if any one entertained the idea he kept it to +himself. The series was brought to a close by a delineation of the +original elephant in two acts; but the designers neglected to state +where this particular performance of the animal could be witnessed. + +[Illustration: THE YANKEE ELEPHANT.] + +[Illustration: THE CHINESE ELEPHANT.] + +[Illustration: THE OPERATIC ELEPHANT.] + +[Illustration: THE ELEPHANT IN LOVE.] + +One of the first practical results of their afternoon work was the +preparation of a brief description of Java, which was duly forwarded by +mail to their friends. Both the boys contributed to its preparation, and +each made a copy for his own use. Here is the story: + +"Java is not of great extent. It is only six hundred miles long, and +varies from sixty to one hundred and twenty in width: its area added to +that of the island of Madura, which lies near it, is estimated at +thirty-eight thousand geographical square miles. Its population is not +far from seventeen millions; and when this is considered with relation +to its extent, it will be seen that Java is one of the most +densely-peopled countries in the world. That the country has prospered +under the rule of the Dutch, is evident from the growth of the +population, which was little more than five millions in 1826, nine +millions in 1850, and is now at the figure just mentioned. If it goes on +at this rate, doubling about every twenty-six years, there will come a +time when it will be obliged to put out a placard announcing 'standing +room only!' + +"It is said that formerly the religion of the people of Java was +Brahminical, and when Buddhism became the fashion of the East the new +form was adopted. This continued till about four hundred years ago, when +Mohammedanism was introduced, and it has remained to this day; so that +the greater part of the population at present are Moslems. There are +many traces of the former character of the people in the shape of +monuments and ruins, some of them of great extent. In the eastern part +of the island these remains are very abundant, and show that the ancient +Javanese had great artistic skill. + +[Illustration: ANCIENT BAS-RELIEF--JAVA.] + +"Few persons have any idea of the extent of these ruins, and their +corresponding splendor. They are far more extensive than those of +Central America, and some travellers think they surpass the temple ruins +of India. In the centre of Java there is a mass of ruins where there +were formerly twenty separate temples, and the largest of them is +thought to have been ninety feet high. In another place there is a +collection of no less than two hundred and ninety-six temples, all +greatly ruined, but bearing evidence of a high class of art in their +construction. Sculptured figures are abundant, and the walls of forts, +temples, houses, baths, and aqueducts can be distinctly traced. It is a +pity that the government does not pay some attention to these ruins, and +save them from decay. At present they are left to the action of the +elements, which is very rapid in this tropical land. + +[Illustration: A MONSTER VOLCANO.] + +"Java is by no means a level island. There is a good deal of country +sufficiently level for agricultural purposes, but the island has its +full share of mountains, and no less than forty-six of them are +volcanic. Twenty of the volcanoes are active, and one of them is the +second largest in the world--that of Kilauea, in the Sandwich Islands, +being the chief. It is known as the Tenger Mountain, and its crater is +three miles in diameter, with a level bottom of sand, containing a dozen +or more cones that are constantly smoking. The whole island is supposed +to be of volcanic origin, and is subject to frequent earthquakes; so +that the practice of building houses only one story high is a very +sensible precaution. The island has a backbone of mountains, as the +principal chain extends from one end of Java to the other. There is +another small chain near the south coast; and all over the island there +are hot springs maintained by the fires far down in the ground. + +"We have already told of the trees and animals of Java, as well as some +other things. We will come as soon as we can to the topic that interests +us more than any other--the relations between the natives and the Dutch +rulers. To do this intelligently, we must go back and see what the +history of the island has been. + +"Early in the seventeenth century the Dutch began to trade with the +native chiefs and people of Java, and obtained permission to build a +fort and trading post near the present site of Batavia. In a little +while they went to war with the natives; and by the end of the century +had obtained considerable territory. From that time on they have had +occasional difficulties, and each time when the war was ended the result +has been that the position of the Dutch was strengthened. + +"They had possession of the island till 1811, when England took it from +them, and held it four years. Then it was given back to Holland by +treaty, and has remained her peaceful possession ever since. + +"The principal exports are coffee, sugar, rice, indigo, spices, tin, +pepper, India-rubber, cinnamon, tea, camphor, rattans, and various other +things; and the aggregate amount of the trade is very great. Down to the +time of the restoration by the English, the expense of maintaining Java +had been quite as great as the revenue from it; and it was this fact +that made the English willing to give it up. If they had known that it +would be made to yield a net revenue of five million dollars a year, +over and above the expense of maintaining the local government, they +would have thought twice before surrendering it. + +"The genius of one man--General Johannes Van den Bosch, Governor-general +and Commissary-general of the Dutch East Indies, from 1830 to +1834--brought about this result, and made Java the most profitable +colony that any country has ever known. + +"And he not only made it profitable to Holland, but prosperous for its +inhabitants; while they enriched the rulers, they were themselves +enriched. Anybody who has money may benefit the poor at his own expense, +but it takes a man of genius to confer an equal benefit on the poor, and +make something for himself or his employers out of the transaction. Such +a man was General Van den Bosch. + +[Illustration: PEASANT FARM-HOUSES.] + +"Down to 1830, the expenditure to maintain the Dutch government in Java +was a steady burden on the treasury of Holland, as it was greater than +the revenue from the island. General Van den Bosch was sent out in that +year with plans of his own for making Java profitable; but there were +many who considered him a visionary schemer, whose experiments were sure +to result in disastrous failure. He proposed to offer liberal terms to +the respectable Europeans in Java for cultivating the soil, and +producing such things as were needed in Europe. He further proposed to +make the peasants who lived on the government lands plant a certain +portion of those lands with crops needed in Europe, and which the +government would buy of them at a certain fixed rate. His scheme was +shaped to cover the following principles: + +"1. Profit to the peasant, to make the new system acceptable. + +"2. Profit to the contractor, to induce its extension by private +enterprise. + +"3. A percentage to the officials, to secure their active support. + +"4. Personal interest of the village community in its success, so as to +secure careful cultivation. + +"5. Improvement in the tax-payer's means, in order to increase the +revenue and facilitate its payment.[3] + +[3] For much of the information concerning the culture-system of General +Van den Bosch and its results, the author is indebted to the excellent +and exhaustive work of Mr. J. W. B. Money, entitled "Java; or, How to +Manage a Colony." + +"The plan for making advances to the contractors was carried out by +crediting each one with the money estimated necessary to start his +manufactory; and he was expected to apply it under government +supervision to the construction of his mill, and placing it in working +order. It was loaned to him for twelve years, without interest; but he +was expected to repay a tenth of it the third year, and a similar amount +in each succeeding year till the whole amount was repaid. Many persons +refused the proposal, but there were others who gladly accepted it, and +went to work at once. + +[Illustration: HOME OF A PROSPEROUS CONTRACTOR.] + +"It was further provided that the government would advance to the +contractor, at the beginning of every season, the money necessary to +produce his crop; and this advance was to be repaid out of the crop when +it was gathered. There were many details of the plan which would require +too much space to describe, and they were varied from time to time in +order to make them as practicable as possible. Besides--" + +"Stop a moment," said Frank, when they had reached this point. "Don't +you think we are making this part of our story a little too heavy? I am +afraid Mary and Miss Effie, and the rest of the young folks in our +families, may not enjoy it." + +"Perhaps not," replied Fred; "but then, you know, the whole family is to +read our letters, and I am sure the subject will be very interesting to +my father, and to yours too. And I think you will find the younger folks +will like it, because it will teach them something of what is called +political economy. Every intelligent boy and girl in America wants to +know about the science of government; the history of the colonial +government of Java is very interesting to both of us, and I believe we +had better assume that it will be equally so to persons of our age at +home. So go ahead, if you please, and if anybody doesn't want to read +what we have written, he may skip it." + +Work was resumed without further discussion. + +[Illustration: COFFEE-PLANTATION IN THE MOUNTAINS.] + +"Down to the time we are considering the chief product of the soil +tilled by the Javanese peasants was rice. General Van den Bosch proposed +to have them cultivate coffee, sugar, and other articles that commanded +a ready sale in Europe; and, as the government would buy the crop at a +certain fixed price on the spot, the peasant would have a market at his +door, and feel certain that he would not be robbed by middle-men and +commission merchants, as is too often the case in other countries +besides Java. The price paid by government was sufficient to make a fair +return for the labor employed in making the crop, and at the same time +low enough to allow a handsome profit when it was sold in Holland." + +"That explains something I have never before understood," said Fred, as +he laid aside his pen for a moment. + +"What is that?" Frank inquired. + +[Illustration: "OLD GOVERNMENT JAVA."] + +"Why, we often read in the papers at home about the price of 'Old +Government Java Coffee.' It is the coffee the government buys of the +producer, and then sells in the market." + +"Exactly so," Frank responded. "That bit of information will interest a +good many boys in America." + +"And men too," chimed in the Doctor, who was sitting in an arm-chair +close at hand, and watching the clouds as they rolled over the mountain +in the background of the view from the veranda. + +"I want to know," said Frank, "how the enterprising general proposed to +compel the people to work in the fields and cultivate the crops, when +they might spend their time under the trees, and pluck the fruit when +they needed it to supply their wants." + +[Illustration: A JAVANESE CHIEF.] + +"Mr. Money says," answered Fred, "that the general made a careful study +of the relations between the people and their native rulers. He found a +patriarchal form of government, the villages being ruled by their chosen +chiefs; several villages forming a sort of district, and several +districts united into a province or principality. It was the policy of +General Van den Bosch to take this organization as he found it; and, +instead of over-throwing the native rulers, he would strengthen them, +and make it for their interest, and that of their subjects, to be on +friendly terms with the Dutch. This policy was adopted, and it is +carried out to this day. + +"Now, under the old system of government, before the Dutch came to Java, +the peasant was required to give one-fifth of his labor gratuitously in +return for the rent of the land, which was considered to be the property +of the prince. When the Dutch captured a region, they claimed that they +had captured the prince, and not the people, and that the revenues +belonged to them as the conquerors. In some of the provinces the Dutch +hold possession by treaty, and not by conquest; and the revenues +continue to go to the prince as before. To develop the producing +capacities of the country, they made an estimate of the quantity of any +given article that each district ought to raise under proper management, +and then they required the native ruler of the district to see that +there was the proper production. Allowance was made for bad seasons, or +other calamities; and if the production fell short, without any +assignable cause, the ruler found his revenues cut off. The government +bought the product, as we have already seen, and made its profit. The +prince had his revenue and was happy, and the same was the case with the +subordinate chiefs. The peasant was rewarded for his labor; and, as he +had no more tax to pay than under the old system, he had nothing to +complain of. + +"The crown-lands, or those obtained by conquest, were the ones let out +to contractors. They were generally on long leases, so that the +contractor was encouraged to make improvements; and the result is that +cultivation by private management has been greatly increased, and large +fortunes have been made in many instances. The government takes its +rental by receiving a share of the crops; and it watches over the +relations between the lessee and his laborers, to see that neither +practices any imposition on the other. Each must keep his agreement, +under severe penalties, and the whole system is said to work very +smoothly. + +"The Dutch officials all over the island have no dealings with the +natives except through their own rulers. The native princes have the +title of regents, and the authority of each is supreme in his district +as long as he carries out the policy of the government. A Dutch resident +or assistant-resident lives near each regent, and is considered to be +his 'elder brother,' who advises the younger what to do. He frequently +makes recommendations to the regent, though he never gives orders; but +it is pretty clearly understood that he expects the recommendation to be +adopted. The resident has a few subordinate Europeans, who go through +the district at regular intervals, and visit every village it contains. +They talk with the lower native rulers, examine the proceedings of the +native courts, investigate the condition of the government plantations, +hear the complaints of the people against their head men, or petty +chiefs, and listen to any suggestions that are offered. Disputes are +settled in the local courts without the intervention of a Dutch +official; but in case of dissatisfaction they may be appealed to the +district court, and, if not settled there, they may be carried to the +highest courts of the island. + +[Illustration: AN IMPROVED SUGAR ESTATE.] + +"There is a very efficient police system all through Java, and by means +of it, added to the employment of the people in honest industry, the +amount of crime has been enormously reduced in the past fifty years. +Every man, woman, and child in Java is registered, and each village +chief is made responsible to a certain extent for the conduct of his +subjects. An offence against the law can be readily traced, and if the +village or its chief are at fault, a fine is assessed upon them. +Consequently everybody in a village is directly interested in seeing +that everybody else behaves properly. + +"Well, to sum up the results of the Dutch system of culture in Java, we +can say as follows: + +"From being an expense to Holland, the island now yields an annual +revenue of more than five millions of dollars to the royal treasury, +after paying all the costs of the colonial rule. The expenses of the +latter are by no means small, as the salaries of the officials are on a +liberal scale. The Governor-general receives $100,000 a year, besides +$60,000 additional for entertainments. It is said that the latter figure +pays nearly all his expenses, so that he can, if he chooses, lay aside +$100,000 a year for a rainy day. A Resident in a province receives +$10,000, in addition to free rent of house and all surrounding +buildings, and an allowance for extras. The subordinate officials are +paid in proportion; so that nobody is obliged to rob the government or +the people in order to make an honest living. + +[Illustration: RETAINERS OF A JAVANESE REGENT.] + +"Crime and litigation have been so reduced that the sittings of the +local courts do not average thirty days a year. + +"Formerly there was much poverty and suffering in Java; now nearly every +man, woman, and child appears to be well fed and clothed, and a beggar +is a very rare sight. + +"The import and export trade have been increased fourfold, in spite of +the protective policy, which is the necessary attendant of the Java +culture system. + +"The population has more than trebled in sixty years, and promises to +increase in the same ratio, unless interrupted by some great calamity. + +"Those who have travelled in both Java and India say that the contrast +in the conditions of the two countries is something enormous. In Java +there is hardly any indication of poverty, and the public works are all +in excellent shape; while in India the reverse is the case. Want and +degradation are visible everywhere, and the traveller has daily and +hourly appeals for charity. Famines are frequent in India, and in the +year 1877 more than a million people died of starvation in Bengal and +Madras. Famines are virtually unknown in Java, and in case of a general +drought to cut off the crops, relief could be carried promptly to all +parts of the island by means of the excellent roads that the Dutch have +constructed. + +"There is a great deal more that we might say, but it is getting near +bed-time, and we will stop for the present. The wind sets our candle in +a flicker, and it is 'guttering' in a way that threatens to extinguish +it altogether. Good-night!" + +[Illustration: "GOOD-NIGHT."] + + + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +RICE CULTURE IN JAVA.--MILITARY AND SOCIAL MATTERS. + + +Bright and early the next morning the boys were out for a visit to a +place where there was a spring of remarkably cold water. It was about +two miles from Buitenzorg, and the road leading to it ran through a palm +forest and among rice-fields. They had an opportunity to see the care +with which the Javanese till their land. The hilly ground is laid out in +terraces, one above another, and when the water has performed its work +in one place, it goes to the terrace next below; thus it is made to do +duty over and over again. There are large reservoirs where water can be +stored in the wet season, and kept for the period when the rain-fall +ceases. By close attention to the needs of the soil and the +peculiarities of the climate, the Javanese are able to make their land +extremely productive, and a failure of crops is a very rare occurrence. +On much of the rice-land they grow two crops a year. + +[Illustration: THE HOUSE AT THE SPRING.] + +The spring was of goodly size, and flowed into a pool fifty or sixty +feet across. A house had been erected at one side of this pool, and was +overshadowed by banana and cocoa trees; it had a lot of dressing-rooms, +where the boys were not long in donning the proper costume for a bath. +They shivered somewhat when they first entered the water; but the shock +did not last long, and then they found the sensation was most delicious. +The place was in charge of a Chinese, who demanded a most exorbitant +price for the use of the bath and a few bananas and mangosteens that +were ordered. When they offered a low sum, he bowed, and seemed to say +that, if he could not have what he wanted, he would take what they +offered, which was a good deal more than he deserved. + +On their return they had a different view of the rice-fields, and Fred +made note of the fact that when you look upwards on a lot of rice-fields +you see nothing but a series of terraces, while, looking downwards, you +seem to be gazing on a lake. While the water is on the flats, the ground +is stirred with a harrow drawn by a pair of buffaloes; the rice is sown, +and as soon as the plants are of the requisite height the surplus ones +are taken out and transplanted. The crop is then started, and the +farmer has little to do till the time of harvest, beyond taking care +that his fields have plenty of water. When the harvest is made, the +paddy--as the uncleaned rice is called--is cut and taken to the mill. + +Rice-mills are abundant in Java; some are run by steam, many by water, +and many small ones by horses and buffaloes. The rice-mill is quite +simple, and consists of a shaft like a ship's capstan and four +projecting arms. Each arm has a wheel at the end, and as the shaft goes +round the wheels revolve in a circular groove containing the rice to be +cleaned. The wheel removes the husk, and when this is done a +winnowing-mill separates the rice from the chaff or trash. This is the +whole operation. The rice-mill of to-day is practically what it was a +hundred years ago. + +The Dutch have introduced farming implements of the European pattern on +some of the estates, but the natives do not generally take kindly to the +innovation. They prefer the old form of ploughs which have been in use +from ancient days, and think that what was good for their fathers is +good for them. Frank made a sketch of a primitive plough; it had a +single handle, and its point could only scratch a furrow in the soil +without turning it over. + +[Illustration: POUNDING COFFEE.] + +At one place they saw a native engaged in pounding coffee in a large +mortar, to separate the berry from the hull. He had a heavy pestle which +he held in both hands, and the perspiration standing on his face showed +that the labor was not one of pure pleasure. + +On all the large coffee estates improved machinery is in use for the +preparation of the product. The berry as it comes from the tree is +about the size of an English walnut; the bean is enclosed in a thick +husk, and the great point in the preparation is to remove the husk +without injuring the bean. Pounding by hand is likely to damage the bean +by breaking it, and when this is done the market value of the coffee is +considerably reduced. Inventors have studied the problem, and a good +many machines have been devised to accomplish the desired separation. +The most successful one thus far is the invention of an Englishman in +Ceylon, and his machines are in use all over the coffee-producing world. + +[Illustration: DUTCH OVERSEERS.] + +He has called the principle of specific gravity to his aid, and made it +very useful. The coffee-berry floats on water, as the husk is very +light, but the bean by itself sinks to the bottom. A stream of water +floats the berries along a narrow channel, and feeds them automatically +into a groove where two plates of copper revolve in opposite directions +about half an inch apart. These plates crush the berry, but do not +injure the bean; the husk and bean together are carried to a trough, +where the bean sinks and is caught in a tub, while the useless husk +floats away to whatever distance the water is made to carry it. The +coffee is then spread out on a platform and dried in the sun, and it is +afterwards sorted, winnowed, and made ready for market. The work is +supervised by Dutch overseers, but all the manual labor is performed by +natives. + +On returning from their ride, and while at breakfast, the boys had a +conversation with one of the gentlemen whose acquaintance they had made +during the rainy afternoons on the veranda. Fred was curious to know why +he did not hear a single native speaking Dutch or English, but confining +himself strictly to Malay. + +"That is easily explained," said the gentleman. "It is the policy of the +Dutch not to teach their language to the natives, but they require all +their own officials to learn Malay. They have a school or college in +Holland, at the old town of Delft, which was established in 1842, for +the express purpose of fitting young men for the East Indian service. +Before they can graduate, the students must pass an examination in the +usual college studies, and also in the Malay language, Mohammedan +justice and laws, and in a knowledge of the country and nations of +Netherlands India. Of course they are not expected to speak the Malay +language fluently on leaving college, but they know a good deal of it +when they land here, and are expected to know more before they have been +long in Java. If they are not able to converse easily in Malay by the +end of a couple of years, they are liable to be sent home. This makes +them study hard, and renders them far more useful than if they could +talk only in Dutch. + +"You see how it works," he continued. "The Dutch officials can talk and +write in their own language with very little fear that the natives can +understand a word; but no native can write or say anything that every +Dutch official cannot comprehend at once. On several occasions they have +been able to nip conspiracies in the bud by this advantage, particularly +at the time of the great mutiny in India. Then they do not encourage +missionaries to labor among the natives; they argue that the natives are +quite content with the religion they have, and it would interfere with +their labor in the field to become interested in Christianity. And if a +missionary should open a school to teach any other language than Malay, +and endeavored to tell the principles of any European or American +religion to the natives, he would be very liable to receive a notice to +leave the island at an early date." + +A company of soldiers marched past the hotel while the party was at +breakfast. After looking at them, Fred inquired, "How large an army do +they keep here, and how is it composed?" + +"The number of troops in the field, or on duty in garrisons, varies from +time to time," was the reply, "and therefore an account of the army at +one date is not altogether good for another. The army is composed, like +that of India, partly of native and partly of European soldiers. The +native force is exclusively Mohammedan, and is filled up by voluntary +enlistments, never by conscriptions. The European portion is also +voluntary, and the conscript troops in the army in Holland are never +sent to Java. The infantry is divided into field battalions and garrison +battalions, and the soldiers in each battalion are one-third European +and two-thirds native. Each battalion contains six companies, the two +flank companies consisting of European soldiers, and the four centre +companies of natives. The native companies are composed of the different +Mohammedan tribes and sects from all parts of Netherlands India, all +mixed together, so that there shall never be a large majority of one +kind of people in the same battalion." + +"That is a very shrewd arrangement," said Frank, "as it prevents a +mutiny by making it impossible for a whole battalion to have a common +grievance." + +[Illustration: FOOT-BRIDGE OVER A MOUNTAIN STREAM.] + +"Not only that," the gentleman replied, "but it facilitates the movement +of the troops; and the Dutch say that their principal object in making +the battalions in this way was in consequence of the character of the +service. The Dutch East Indies are of great extent, and it is often +necessary to make marches where there are no roads, and the few bridges +that exist are only intended for persons on foot. Consequently, they can +never move their troops in large bodies, owing to the difficulty of +carrying provisions. Each battalion under the present system has the +means of transporting its own provisions, ammunition, and light mountain +guns where there are no roads, as the native soldiers can act as +porters, while the Europeans compose the fighting force in case an enemy +is encountered. + +"All the commissioned officers are Europeans, and in each native company +two of the four sergeants and four of the eight corporals must be +Europeans; and some of them live in the barrack-rooms with the native +soldiers. The European companies in each battalion have barracks +separate from the natives, but close at hand; and whenever any of the +soldiers of the native companies are sent on duty, they are accompanied +by a proportionate number of Europeans. There is a difference in the pay +and food of the European and native soldiers; but in all other respects +they are treated as nearly alike as possible. + +"There is a free school attached to each battalion for the education of +both adults and children; the soldiers are urged to attend it, and their +children are required to do so. Every officer of the battalion, whether +commissioned or non-commissioned, who has any peculiar knowledge, is +required to give it to the school; and any soldier of the battalion who +has a talent for instructing can be appointed an assistant-teacher in +the school, and be relieved from duties that are purely military--except +in time of war. All soldiers, whether native or European, can have their +wives and children with them, except when on active service in the +field." + +Fred thought the Java soldier had an easy time of it. Frank thought so +too; and asked if he had any more privileges than those that had been +named. + +"Yes," was the reply; "there is the privilege of a house and garden." + +"What!" said one of the boys, "a house and garden for soldiers in the +army!" + +[Illustration: REWARDS FOR GOOD CONDUCT.] + +"Certainly," responded their informant; "when a regiment is not +quartered in the city, the soldiers are rewarded for good conduct by +receiving a plot of ground near the barracks, with the privilege of +building a hut. European and native are treated alike in this respect; +and it has been found the greatest incentive to good conduct. The man +spends his time with his family in the cultivation of his garden when he +is not on duty--which is by far the larger part of the day. He returns +to the barracks at night, and his family may remain in the hut or go +with him to the military quarters. + +[Illustration: PIRATE PRISONERS ON A COLONIAL GUN-BOAT.] + +"But I haven't told you how large the army of Java is. Ordinarily, +there are about twenty-five thousand men of all arms; but at present the +number is greater, owing to the war in Sumatra, which requires an extra +force. The infantry is the most important branch of the service, and is +composed as I have told you. The engineers consist of Europeans and +natives mixed together in the same companies; the artillery has European +gunners and native riders, and the cavalry are nearly all Europeans. +There is a colonial navy with several gun-boats, which are generally +occupied in seeing that the pirates throughout the Archipelago are kept +in proper subjection. And there is also a militia force, which is only +to be called on in emergencies: it consists of a cavalry and an infantry +corps; and every European living in Java, whether Dutchman or other +foreigner, must belong to the militia or the fire-brigade." + +The boys thought this was a severe regulation; but they changed their +minds when told that the militia-service was very slight, and a man +might be a member of the fire-brigade for years without any call being +made for his assistance. The Europeans in the interior are exempt from +service, except in cases of special emergency; and those living in the +cities are not often called upon. Englishmen and others have complained +of the requirement to do militia and fire-brigade service, but are met +with the reply which cannot be easily answered: "If you don't like the +laws and customs of Java, you had better emigrate." + +"The Dutch rulers of Java do not pretend they are occupying the country +for any other purpose than to make money out of it. They never talk +about their great mission of civilizing and enlightening the benighted +people of the East, as the English do in India; and whenever anybody is +disposed to find fault with them, they say to him without hesitation, +'If you don't like things as you find them here, you would do well to +leave. The steamer will start for Singapore in a few days, and you are +at liberty to take passage at once.' + +[Illustration: PASSPORT OFFICE.] + +"You must have a passport on landing in Java, or, if you have none, the +consul of your country must vouch for you. You must get a permission to +travel in the interior; it is very rarely refused, and only when the +authorities are satisfied that you have the intention of doing harm." + +Frank asked what it would be necessary to do in case he desired to +remain permanently, and become an inhabitant of Java. + +"You can stay here six weeks," was the reply, "without any formalities +beyond the ordinary permission of the police, which costs nothing. But +if you want to live here you must apply for permission on a printed +form, and have two householders of the place where you are to endorse +your application. If there is no objection to your staying, the desired +document will be granted by the Governor-general, and the fees and +stamps connected with it will cost you about forty dollars of American +money." + +"Does every foreigner who comes here to live have to pay forty dollars?" +Fred inquired. + +"That is the law," answered his informant; "but the permission is never +refused, unless the authorities suspect that the applicant intends to +disturb the public peace, or when he is unable to obtain the necessary +securities. The result is, that the foreign population of Java is of a +better class than you find in most other parts of the East; the +adventurers who have not a dollar in their pockets, and expect to make a +living by means more or less questionable, do not come here. The +Chinese are very numerous in Java; more than a quarter of a million are +settled here; but they are of a better class than the majority of those +who go to San Francisco, and they give very little trouble to the +authorities. The security is required to protect the government against +the applicant becoming a pauper, and to vouch for his good behavior; but +it has no reference to private debts, which are treated just like +private debts everywhere else. + +[Illustration: ORDERED OUT OF THE COUNTRY.] + +"The government also reserves the right to send anybody out of the +country in case he becomes troublesome, even after he has received +permission to reside here. The rule applies to a citizen of Holland the +same as to any other foreigner, but it is very rarely exercised, and +only when all other means of adjusting the difficulty have failed. The +local governors have the power of ordering anybody to leave their +districts, if he has been found guilty of treating the natives +improperly, and the Governor-general may restrict the movements of any +individual whenever he thinks the good of the colony requires it." + +Fred wished to know if a foreigner could hold land in Java like any +subject of the King of Holland, and was answered in the negative. + +"What a monstrous injustice!" he replied. + +Doctor Bronson laughed at his nephew's remark, and the latter turned +towards him with an inquiring look on his face. + +"You may not be aware," said the Doctor, "that an alien in the United +States is unable to hold real estate, and I believe that the same is the +case in Great Britain." + +"In that view of the matter," said Fred, "Java is not so bad as I +thought it was. But can a foreigner be naturalized here, as in England +and America, and then hold property?" + +"Certainly," responded the gentleman; "and the time of residence in Java +before naturalization is the same as in your own country--six years. +When he becomes a citizen, he has the same rights as a Dutchman, but +until that time he labors under various disadvantages. The Dutch theory +is that all the good things in Java belong to themselves, and if a +foreigner chooses to live here and not become a citizen, he must be +satisfied with any crumbs that happen to be lying around." + +"I have before told you," he continued, "that the Dutch discourage all +attempts of the natives to learn the languages of Holland and the rest +of Europe, and are not inclined to teach them anything that is +distinctively European. I know a native of high rank who went to Europe +and spent several years there; when he returned he could speak Dutch, +English, and French quite fluently, and was proud of his +accomplishments. But he has told me that whenever he spoke to a Dutch +official or to a private citizen in any European language, he was always +answered in Malay, and if he tried to continue the conversation in any +other than the latter tongue it was soon brought to an end. While the +Dutch treat the natives kindly, and will not allow any imposition upon +them, they are very particular about anything that would bring a +European below a native. For instance, they will not permit a native to +have a European servant, no matter how high the rank of the former, and +how low the latter. + +"No native would dare to drive out with a European coachman on any of +the public streets, nor with a European on the front seat of his +carriage, while he occupied the back one. If a European soldier or +sailor becomes drunk in public, he is instantly arrested by the police, +in order that his conduct may not degrade the white race in the eyes of +the natives. Several years ago a native regent obtained the consent of a +Dutch girl to marry him; her family was poor, and her social rank was +low, but when he asked the permission of government for his marriage it +was promptly refused, and he was dismissed from his office. + +"The Dutch idea in this whole matter is that the Oriental never respects +his equals, but only his superiors. Consequently they hold that in all +social relations they can best serve their own interests and those of +the natives by holding themselves to be the superiors, as they are by +right of conquest. At the same time, they endeavor to give the native no +cause of complaint against them. If a Dutch master maltreats a servant, +the latter can have his wrongs redressed in the nearest police court; +and if the master is found guilty, he is subject to a heavy fine. A +merchant who endeavors to defraud a native is in hot water very +speedily; and if he becomes notorious for attempts to enrich himself by +this kind of dishonesty, his troubles will increase at a very rapid +rate." + +"But if one foreigner attempts to cheat another," said Frank, "does the +government feel called on to interfere?" + +"That is quite another affair," was the reply; "commercial matters +between foreigners are exactly like the same transactions in other +countries, and the courts exist for the administration of justice, the +enforcement of contracts, and other contingencies of trade, in Java as +in England and America." + +[Illustration: NO ADMITTANCE.] + + + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +A POST RIDE IN JAVA.--FROM BUITENZORG TO BANDONG. + + +As soon as they had exhausted Buitenzorg and the sights of the +neighborhood, the Doctor suggested to Frank and Fred that they should +make a journey into the interior. They had not time to undertake the +tour of the whole island, but they wished to go beyond the line of the +railway, and learn by practical experience about the system of posting +for which Java was famous. + +Before the introduction of railways Java was supplied with excellent +roads from one end of the island to the other, which were begun by +Marshal Daendels in the early part of this century, and continued by the +Dutch rulers since 1816. Then there are numerous cross-roads, so that +nearly all parts of the country are accessible by wagon or carriage. On +the principal routes the lines are double, one being intended for +carriages and horses, and the other for cattle. The cattle roads are +like the ordinary country road in America; but the carriage-way is +macadamized, and admits of rapid travelling. On the whole, the system is +quite as good as that which prevailed in Europe before the establishment +of the railway; and when it is remembered that the interior of Java is +very hilly, and cut up with numerous streams, the magnitude of the work +which has been accomplished under the equator will be more readily +understood. + +The arrangements for posting were made with the assistance of the +landlord of the hotel, who told them that it might take a day or two to +find a carriage that could be hired. The Dutch and other foreign +inhabitants generally own the carriages in which they travel; and when a +stranger wishes to traverse the island, it is customary for him to buy a +carriage, and sell it on reaching the end of his journey. When you want +to buy a carriage, you find the vehicles are scarce and dear; and when +you want to sell, the market is glutted with them. A good carriage for +posting will cost between three and four hundred dollars; and if it can +be sold at a loss of one hundred dollars when the traveller is done with +it, he may consider himself lucky. + +The journey that our friends intended to make was to last less than a +week, and they hired a carriage for which they were to pay twenty-five +dollars for that time, and be responsible for any damages that might +happen to it. Frank thought the owner would make a good business if he +could find steady occupation for his vehicle at that rate; but the +landlord informed him that the carriages were idle more than half the +time, and sometimes there were weeks together when no customer appeared. + +[Illustration: STARTING ON THE JOURNEY.] + +Early one morning the conveyance drew up in front of the hotel, and the +three travellers entered and took their seats. The carriage was a very +comfortable one, with seats for four persons inside, a dickey or +servant's seat behind, and a box under the coachman where baggage could +be stowed. There were four horses, harnessed in European style, with a +coachman dressed in white, and wearing a hat that reminded the boys of +Japan and China. There were three footmen or grooms, who ran along-side +the carriage to whip the horses, and make themselves generally useful; +and when everything was going well they rode on a standing place +intended for them on the rear of the vehicle. Frank observed, as the +journey continued, that these fellows were the most accomplished +whip-crackers in the world; and Fred remarked that the best ring-master +in an American circus would hide his head in shame, if he should listen +to them for a few minutes. He understood the trick of the business when +told that the footmen practise whip-snapping from boyhood, and at one +station where they changed horses there was a man engaged in teaching a +group of boys the principles of the art. He had a practical way of +instructing them, as he followed each failure with a crack of the whip +on the boy's shoulders. + +[Illustration: BY THE ROADSIDE.] + +There was some trouble at starting, as the horses were fresh and +inclined to be "balky," and one of them indulged in a private +kicking-match that did not promise well for rapid progress on the +journey. However, the performance did not last long; and when they were +under way they rattled along in fine style. + +[Illustration: LODGINGS OF THE STABLE-MEN.] + +Posting in Java is expensive, as the hire of teams and drivers is nearly +a dollar a mile. Then the drivers and footmen expect gratuities at the +end of their journey, and there are other fees to be paid at several +places. In return for this high price, the service is excellent. Notice +must be given beforehand, and the time of starting must be fixed. A +courier is sent along to all the stations, and when the carriage arrives +where the relay is to be taken, the new horses are found ready harnessed +and waiting, so that the delay does not occupy more than two or three +minutes. The stations are from five to seven or eight miles apart, and +the teams go at the greatest speed. At each station there is a native +official, and sometimes a European one; and there are plenty of drivers, +runners, and attendants, who sleep and wait in open sheds in the rear of +the stable. + +At each station there is a large shed extending over the road, and +connecting the stables on each side. The carriage halts under this shed, +so that the traveller is protected from the heat of the sun in dry +weather, or the moisture when it rains. There are the facilities for +making a lunch at nearly all the stations, as the keeper can supply hot +water for tea and coffee, and a liberal quantity of milk and fresh eggs. +With these things, and some cold chicken or other meat from the +stopping-place of the previous night, a slice or two of bread, and the +fruit that abounds everywhere, the traveller must be very fastidious if +he cannot satisfy the hunger which the ride through the pure air of Java +is sure to give him. + +The journal of the expedition was kept by the boys, with occasional +suggestions from the Doctor. Every moment that they could spare from +sight-seeing was devoted to the history of their journey in Java; and +during their halts at the stations, some of the keepers thought the two +youths were inspectors sent out by the government to report on the +condition of the postal-service, as they made such vigorous use of their +pens. One station-keeper was extra polite, and brought out a bottle of +schnapps in their honor; their prompt refusal of the proffered courtesy +confirmed his belief in their inquisitorial character, though it raised +doubts as to their genuineness as Dutch officials. "But they are yet +very young," he remarked, with a shake of the head, as the carriage +drove away; "they will not refuse schnapps when they grow older." + +We will make a few extracts from the journal, which subsequently gave +much delight to the Bassett and Bronson families: + +[Illustration: JUST IMPORTED.] + +"We are having a jolly ride through Java, and shall be very sorry when +it comes to an end. It is hot in the middle of the day, but delicious at +other times; and anybody who could not enjoy this sort of travel must be +very hard to please. Some of the way we have made ten miles an hour, and +the little horses come in smoking and panting when we get to a station, +and are ready for a change. The horses are mostly Java ponies, but there +are many from the island of Celebes, and other parts of the Dutch East +Indies. They are tough little animals, about twelve or thirteen hands +high, and capable of great endurance; and the consumption of horse-flesh +is so great, that enough of them are not raised in Java to supply the +demand. + +"When we left the hotel at Buitenzorg this morning, we took with us the +materials for our breakfast, so as to save the delay of having it +prepared at one of the inns. We stopped at the second station on the +road, and were as hungry as one could wish; and when we pointed to our +basket and motioned that we wanted to eat, we were referred to a shop +kept by a Chinese, close by the post-station. We went there, as the +shop had better facilities for our meal than the station; John was all +smiles, and showed us to a table in the middle of his front room. He was +married and settled in the country, as he had a Javanese wife; and there +were two or three children, with Javanese complexions and Chinese eyes, +playing around the door. And what do you think we found in his shop to +remind us of home? + +"We wanted something to piece out the provisions we had brought from +Buitenzorg, and so we examined the shelves of the establishment. The +first thing we fell upon was a can of American oysters, with the +familiar name of the firm that packed them. Then we found a can of +peaches and another of pigs' feet, and we kept on with our inventory of +things from our side of the world till we had a dozen or more of them on +our list. With the oysters and the peaches to add to the stock from the +hotel, we made a capital breakfast, and went away happy. We had some +difficulty in paying our bill, as we could speak no common language. +John finally set the matter right by counting out from his box the money +we should pay, and spreading it on the table before us; we put down a +similar amount, and he was satisfied. He ought to have been, as I am +sure he cheated us; but then those who travel in a country where they do +not speak the language must expect to pay for their ignorance. + +"We have met people on horseback and in common wagons; and in several +instances the men on horseback were followed by coolies carrying +baggage. We are told that is the way the young men who wish to avoid +expense travel in Java--as the cost of horse and coolies is less than a +twelfth of the expense of posting. They also have palanquins for the +cross-roads, though not on the great highways; but they are not suited +to people who wish to get over the ground rapidly. Posting is by all +odds the most rapid way of travelling, but at the same time it is +terribly dear. + +"We find that many of the roadside shops, near the stopping-places, are +kept by Chinese; and the Chinese really seem to have a great deal to do +with the business of Java. A gentleman at Buitenzorg said that the +Chinese had a large amount of property in Java, and they could hold real +estate like anybody else as soon as they became citizens. He said there +were half a million Chinese in Java, and, as the government compelled +everybody to pay nearly forty dollars on coming here to live, they had a +better class of Chinese than we have in America. The Chinese have +established several branches of manufacture in Java like those they have +at home; and the gentleman showed us some enamel-work which he said was +made in Batavia by Chinese workmen. We have certainly never seen +anything finer than this, and I doubt if they produce anything in Canton +or Peking that can surpass it. + +"In spite of the high price of posting in Java, it is said that the +business does not pay. The government is at a heavy expense to maintain +the roads and stations, and to keep the service in proper order. The +argument of the government is that it is of the greatest importance to +keep the means of transportation and travel in the best possible +condition; and though it may not pay of itself, it is of great advantage +indirectly. They have certainly spent enormous amounts of money on their +roads and posting system; and they are too shrewd to continue to throw +away their cash on an unprofitable enterprise. + +"The road rises steadily from Buitenzorg, though there are several +places where we were able to gallop our horses, and go along at the best +possible pace. After the second station we found ourselves in the +mountains; and the way was so steep that we had seven horses instead of +four for some miles. Then we came to a place where it was necessary to +put oxen ahead of the horses to help them up the hills, which were so +steep that we could only go at a slow walk. We perceived that the air +was colder; and on some of the mountains we thought we could see snow, +but were not sure. In the highest parts of the country ice forms in the +coldest nights, but never to more than a slight thickness, and only a +few times in the course of the year. + +[Illustration: THE WAITER AT SINDINGLAYA.] + +"We reached a point which was said to be two thousand five hundred feet +above the sea, and then had a descent of a few miles to Sindinglaya, +where we found a very comfortable hotel. We had a good dinner here--at +least good for Java. The cooks of Java are not the best in the world, if +we are to judge by what we have seen on the road. The government has +established inns every forty or fifty miles along its principal roads; +they are in charge of Europeans, who receive a salary for keeping the +place in proper condition, at a scale of prices which is posted in every +room, and is not at all unreasonable. Our waiter was a little Malay boy, +who moved around as gracefully as a queen, and twice as dignified. + +[Illustration: SLEEPNG-ROOM IN THE SANITARIUM.] + +"There is a sanitarium or health resort at Sindinglaya, where the +government sends its officers when they suffer from fever, and need to +be restored by the cool air of the mountains. In addition to the +official one, there are several unofficial hotels; and a good many +Europeans living in Batavia endeavor to spend a few weeks there every +year for the sake of their health. The situation is charming, as it is +quite surrounded by mountains, and anybody who is fond of climbing can +have abundant enjoyment and exercise during his residence in this spot. + +"We rattled on over the same excellent road, and passed a goodly number +of villages that presented a very pretty appearance. They are laid out +in regular streets in most cases, and the houses are generally +surrounded with trees that almost conceal them from view. The dwellings +in these villages are always of a single story in height, and their +roofs are covered with thatch or red tiles. Each house stands in a yard, +or 'campong,' by itself, and is enclosed by a hedge sufficiently thick +and high to keep out all intruding cows or other animals. The hedge is +neatly clipped, and frequently covered with bright flowers; besides the +dwelling of the owner, the enclosure generally contains several +store-houses for grain, and a stable with a brick floor. In some places +these villages seem to extend for miles, and tell more plainly than +words that the country is thickly peopled and prosperous. When the Dutch +first came here, the villages were dirty, and it was difficult to teach +the natives any habits of cleanliness. Finally, the new rulers made a +law requiring every native to keep his grounds clean, and his house +properly swept and in order, under penalty of a fine; and they also +announced that the character of a chief or regent would be rated +according to the condition of his villages. It did not take long for the +natives to learn the advantages of cleanliness; and now it is said that +there is no occasion for the law, as they voluntarily give much time and +attention to the improvement of their houses and gardens. + +"We reached Bandong, about a hundred miles from Buitenzorg, without the +slightest accident or delay. The road is level for a good part of the +way as Bandong is approached; there is a wide plain here, about two +thousand four hundred feet above the sea, and surrounded by high +mountains. Java contains three of these plains--Bandong, Solo, and +Kediri--and they are wonderfully fertile. There is an immense quantity +of rice raised here, and some say that Bandong is the best rice-growing +district in Java; at all events, we have seen nothing like it. + +[Illustration: A MOUNTAIN CASCADE.] + +"We were constantly attracted by the beauty of the scenery, which cannot +be described in words. At one place there was a cascade tumbling down +from the mountains, and it was so pretty that we stopped the carriage to +admire it, and make a sketch that would preserve its outlines. The foot +of it was lost in the spray that rose like a cloud, and at one point +where we stood the water seemed to be pouring from the sky. In the dry +season this fall disappears altogether, but when the rains are abundant +it has a full supply of water--a very necessary adjunct for a cascade. + +[Illustration: JAVANESE BOYS.] + +"As we passed through the villages, groups of children stared at us, and +occasionally an urchin turned a somersault, in the hope of securing a +few coppers in recognition of his activity. Sometimes these children +were very scantily clothed, and occasionally there was one carrying a +baby, nearly as large as himself, in the fold of a shawl wound round the +shoulders. Several times we threw them some money, and it was +interesting to see them scramble for it. They are very active, sprightly +little fellows, and when they jumped into the dusty road they made a +cloud that almost hid them from view. + +"Bandong, the town, is a pretty place, with wide streets finely +gravelled, and kept in the best order. There are cocoa-palms and other +tropical trees along each side of nearly every street, and they are so +numerous, and their foliage is so thick, that when you look down a +street you can hardly see a single house. The houses are like those +already described; and as they spread over a large area, they give you +an impression that the inhabitants of Java are unwilling to be +restricted in elbow-room. + +"The Regent of the district resides here, and so does the Resident, as +the principal Dutch official is called. As before explained, the +Resident holds a higher rank than the Regent; but he is the only person +who does, and all the orders for the government of the natives come from +the Regent and his officers. The Regent is appointed by the Dutch, but +he always belongs to the most powerful noble family in the region where +he is to serve, and he holds office for life, unless removed for +improper conduct. The Regent of Bandong is the son of the prince who +ruled here before the Dutch conquest, and who accepted the appointment +of Regent, which he held till his death. He is very rich, as he has a +share of the revenue from the rice grown in Bandong, and he lives in +splendid style. He has a European house, where he entertains foreign +guests; and close by it is his Malay residence, intended only for +himself and family, and for Javanese visitors. Foreigners are admitted +very rarely to the native palace, but those who have been there say it +is luxuriously furnished in truly Javanese style. The Regent is on the +best of terms with the Resident, and they often go out together to the +races and on hunting excursions; the Regent frequently gives parties in +his European house, and on such occasions all the foreigners in the town +and vicinity are invited, and are treated with the greatest civility." + + + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +VISITING A TEA PLANTATION.--PREPARATION OF TEA. + + +We will continue to make extracts from the journal kept by Frank and +Fred concerning their journey in Java. + +"We have already told about the coffee that is grown in Java, and how it +is sold on government account. Some of the finest coffee estates on the +island are in the Bandong district, and nearly all of them are at an +elevation of two thousand feet and more above the sea. Coffee will not +grow to any advantage in the lowlands near the coast, and very little of +it is cultivated there. It needs a high altitude, and some of the +plantations are four thousand feet up in the air. Above the last-named +elevation tea takes the place of coffee; and it has been found in the +last few years that tea will grow in Java on the tops of the highest +mountains, provided there is sufficient soil for the roots of the plant +to find a holding-place. + +"We have been to a coffee estate about ten miles from Bandong, and spent +a day there very pleasantly. As before stated, the coffee-trees are +cultivated, and the berries gathered, by native laborers under foreign +supervision; the process of separating the bean from its husk has been +described, and so has the system by which the government buys the coffee +from the native producer, and makes a handsome profit on the investment. + +[Illustration: TRAIN OF COFFEE-CARTS.] + +"Our ride to the plantation was a slow one, as we had an uphill road +most of the way, and our horses were assisted by oxen. We met several +trains of coffee-carts coming down to the plain on their way to the +railway terminus; it is fortunate that the coffee is carried down rather +than up hill, as its cost in the latter case would be enormously +increased. A cart carrying from one thousand to one thousand five +hundred pounds of coffee can be easily drawn by a pair of oxen coming +down the road, while the same beasts have all they can do to take the +empty cart home again. As the carts wound through the tropical forest, +they presented a very picturesque appearance with their barefooted +drivers, and occasionally we could see the black eyes of a Javanese +woman peering out from under the matting that sheltered the bags from +sun and rain. + +"The gentleman who had charge of the plantation we visited wished us to +stay a few days and indulge in a deer-hunt, but we could not spare the +time. Deer are numerous in this part of the island, and those who are +fond of sport can have an abundance of it if they are in Java in the +right time of the year. If you want larger game than deer, you can hunt +the rhinoceros and wild bull; and if you want savage brutes, that die +hard and fight to the last breath, you can chase the wild-boar. They +have tigers in Java, but not so many as in Malacca, and they do not do +so much damage to the people, for the reason that they have plenty of +game to live upon. + +"We had an opportunity to visit a tea plantation, and gladly embraced +it, as we wished to see something of the process of raising tea and +preparing it for market. + +"Most of the tea plantations in Java are on government lands, which are +leased to contractors for terms of years--rarely less than ten, and not +over twenty. At the beginning of the enterprise the government made cash +advances to the contractors, so that they could have the necessary +capital for clearing the land and starting their crops; these advances +were to be repaid in tea at prices that would give large profits to the +contractors, and on this plan a good many plantations were started about +forty years ago. + +"The government imported skilled workmen from the tea districts of China +to instruct the natives in the business, and it also imported a large +supply of tea-plants and tea-seed. For the first few years the +enterprise was a doubtful one, but after a time it began to pay +handsomely. The cost of making the tea was about fifty cents a pound; +and as the processes improved, and the character of the tea grew better, +the selling price rose till it reached eighty or ninety cents. At these +rates it does not take a great deal of study to show that money can be +made by raising tea in Java, and the applications for leases of land +have increased every year. + +[Illustration: SEED-PODS OF THE TEA-PLANT.] + +"The first thing the tea-planter has to do after getting possession of +his lease is to clear the land and get ready for planting. This is no +small matter, as the forest must be removed, and the soil thoroughly +broken up. The outlay for this is considerable, and not much unlike +clearing up a farm in New England, or in the backwoods of Canada. Then +the young plants are set out; after this has been done, the ground must +be kept clear of weeds, just as in raising corn or potatoes. It must be +frequently stirred, so that the plant can get as much nourishment as +possible from the earth, and when this is done the planter has the +satisfaction of seeing the bushes grow with considerable rapidity. + +"We walked through the fields where the plants were growing, and found +them of different ages and sizes. If we had not known where we were, we +might have thought we were in a field of English myrtle-bushes, as the +tea-plant is much like the myrtle in general appearance. It grows from +two to six feet high, and has white blossoms that resemble small +dog-roses. + +"One of us asked which were the plants that produced green tea, and +which the black. The owner of the plantation smiled, and said there was +no difference. + +"We laughed at our ignorance, as he explained that the difference of the +teas was entirely owing to the manipulation. We asked why it was that +some districts in China produced only green teas, while others were +reputed to make none but black; and he told us it was because the +workmen in those districts had been accustomed to follow only one form +of manipulation. + +"It takes three years, he said, to get a plantation in condition to +produce tea. The seeds are sown in a nursery-bed, and the young plants +are not ready to be set out till they are a year old. They are then +about nine inches high, and covered with leaves; and the first crop is +taken when they have been growing two years in the field. The leaves are +the lungs of the plant, and it would die if all of them were stripped +off. Consequently only a part of them are removed at a picking; and if a +plant is sickly, it is not disturbed at all. The plants will last from +ten to twelve years, and are then renewed; and on all the large +plantations it is the custom to make nursery-beds every year, so that +there will be a constant succession of new plants for setting out in +place of the old ones. + +"At the first gathering the half-opened buds are taken, and from them +the finest teas are made. Then they have another gathering when the +leaves are fully opened, and then another and another, till they have +five or six gatherings in the course of the year. Each time the leaves +are coarser than those of the previous gathering, and consequently the +tea is not of so fine a quality. A well-managed plantation produces all +kinds of tea; and it was a wise requirement of the Dutch government, +when they started the tea-culture in Java, that the planters should +produce proportionate quantities of both black and green, and not less +than four qualities of each. + +[Illustration: GATHERING TEA-LEAVES.] + +"The gathering takes place only in clear weather; and for the best teas +the picking is confined to the afternoon, when the leaves are thoroughly +dry, and have been warmed by the sun. Only the thumb and forefinger are +used in plucking the leaves from the bush; the pickers are generally +women and children, who can gather on the average about forty pounds of +leaves in a day. It takes nearly four pounds of leaves to make one pound +of dry tea; and the usual estimate is that a plantation of one hundred +thousand plants can send ten thousand pounds of tea to market in the +course of a year. + +[Illustration: DRYING TEA IN THE SUN.] + +"Different kinds of tea require different treatment, as we have already +seen. For green tea the leaves are roasted as soon as they have been +gathered, and are then rolled and dried; but the leaves intended for +black teas are spread on bamboo trays five or six inches deep, and +placed on frames where they can have plenty of sun and air. They remain +here from noon till sunset; and if the weather is damp they are further +dried by artificial heat. For this purpose they are placed on frames +over shallow pans containing burning charcoal, and are tossed and +stirred with the hand until they emit a certain fragrance. The heat +should be very slight; and the frames are made so high that it is +necessary for a man to mount a small ladder in order to reach the trays. + +"The sense of smell in the skilful workers of tea is very acute, and +they can tell, to almost a minute, the exact time when the drying should +cease, and the next process begin. The Chinese workmen are better than +any others for this branch of the business, and on many plantations the +most of the manipulation is performed by Chinese, though their labor is +more expensive than that of the Malays. Our host showed us through his +factory, where the men were busy in the various processes; and as he +told us about each step of the business, he took us to the department +where that particular work was going on. + +[Illustration: DRYING OVER CHARCOAL.] + +"After showing the leaves spread out on the frames, he led the way to a +sort of stove, where a man was manipulating some tea in a pan over a +charcoal fire. + +[Illustration: ROASTING TEA.] + +"'This is what we call roasting,' he said, 'and the great object of the +roaster is to dry the leaves without burning them. You see he does not +allow them to be quiet a single instant, but tosses and turns them in +all directions, so that none may stick to the bottom of the pan, which +they might easily do, owing to the moisture they contain.' + +"We watched the roasting till we thought we understood it well, and as +the place was hot we did not care to stay there a great while. The +leaves lose their fragrance when first thrown into the roasting-pan, and +give out a rank smell, but they gradually recover their perfume, and are +ready for the next process, which is called rolling. + +"The tea from the roasting pan was given to a couple of men, who stood +in front of a table or bench, with bamboo mats before them. One had a +large mustache, the largest we had ever seen on a Chinese face, and the +other consoled himself for the absence of that hairy ornament by smoking +a pipe. + +"The roller takes as much tea as he can cover with both his hands, and +places it on the mat in a sort of ball. He keeps them closely together, +and rolls them from right to left; this motion gives each leaf a twist +on itself, and rolls it so firmly that it retains the shape when dry. +This part of the work requires peculiar dexterity, and can only be +performed successfully after long practice. When a man becomes skilful +in it, he can roll the tea with wonderful rapidity; and when his work is +done, every leaf will be found separate from all the others, and twisted +as though it had been passed through a machine. + +[Illustration: HANDY WITH HIS FEET.] + +"The work of rolling the tea is very tiresome, and so the men sometimes +perform it with their feet when they wish to give their hands a rest. We +saw one man at his occupation in this way, and he certainly seemed to +enjoy it. His bamboo mat was on the floor, and he had his trousers +raised so that his legs were bare from the knee down. He rested his arms +on a pole, and kept his feet moving over the handful, or rather +footful, of leaves he was endeavoring to roll out. Our host picked up +some of the tea, and showed us that it was perfectly prepared, and quite +acceptable in every way. The man's toes were much more slender than toes +usually are, and it is doubtless due to the fact that he has used them a +great deal, and never cramped them into tight-fitting boots. + +"After they have been properly rolled, the leaves are spread on trays, +and exposed to the sun and air for several hours, and then they are once +more roasted. The second roasting is milder than the first, and is done +over a slower fire; and afterwards the leaves are rolled again, to make +sure that none of them have become spread out. For the black tea the +roasting is done in a shallow pan, the same as the first; but the green +teas are put in a deep pan, and subjected to a very high heat. + +[Illustration: ROASTING GREEN TEA.] + +"While the green tea is being roasted, there must be a great deal of +care on the part of everybody concerned. The pan is nearly red-hot when +the tea is put into it, about a pound at a time, and the operator in +charge keeps it in rapid motion. One boy tends the fire, while another +stands by with a fan, to prevent the burning of the tea. + +"After their final roasting, the teas are put in a long basket, shaped +like an hour-glass, and having a sieve in the centre. This basket is +placed over a charcoal fire and submitted to the heat for several +minutes, when the tea is poured out and receives another rolling. This +operation is repeated several times, till the tea is thoroughly tired of +it, and also thoroughly dry. Then it is passed through sieves, to +separate the different qualities from each other; and finally it is +winnowed, to remove all the dust and dirt. Then it is 'fired,' or dried +once more, to drive away the last particle of moisture; and in this +condition it is ready to go into the chests in which it is carried to +the lands where it is to be used. + +"There, we have told you all about the preparation of tea, which we +could not do in China for the reason that we did not go into the part of +the country where they produce the tea. China is not the only country +where tea is made, though it once had the monopoly of the business. A +great deal is grown in Japan, as you know, and now you have learned +about the tea-growing in Java. They say that ten million pounds are +grown in Java every year, and the product will increase to double that +amount in less than twenty years. About the time the culture of tea was +introduced into Java, the East India Company tried it in India; and now +the production of tea in that country is so large that the English hope, +before the end of the century, to supply the whole of their home market +with Indian teas. We shall see. + +"The Java teas have a sharp, acrid taste, and are not suited at all to +the American palate. None of them go to America, or, at least, only a +few chests every year, and for some time Holland was the only market for +them. Gradually their sale extended to Germany, and now it is said there +is a demand for them in London. + +"We tasted some of the tea, and found that it resembled what is called +'English breakfast,' only it had a stronger flavor. It is said that it +is worth much more than Chinese tea, for the reason that a pound of it +will give nearly double the amount of the infusion ready for drinking. +Whether this is true or not we are unable to say, as we have seen no +experiments to prove or disprove it. + +"We asked about the reputed adulterations and dyeing of tea by the +Chinese and others. Our host told us that no teas in Java were +adulterated or dyed, but he said it was quite possible they would be as +soon as there was a demand for them. He said the Chinese did not begin +to color their tea till they were urged to do so by English and American +merchants, who told them the dyed teas sold better than others by reason +of presenting a finer appearance. + +"'The coloring-matter,' said he, 'consists of gypsum and Prussian blue +or indigo, and is used in about equal proportions. This is for green +tea, and the quantity to be used for a given amount varies according to +the market for which it is intended. American merchants wish their teas +dyed more heavily than do the English, and there is usually about half a +pound of dye to every hundred pounds of tea.' + +"'Can't we raise tea in America?' Fred asked. + +[Illustration: TEA REGIONS OF THE UNITED STATES.] + +"'Certainly,' replied the planter, who had been in the United States, +and spent several years there. 'There is a large area of the United +States where tea could be raised, and the government some years ago +spent considerable money on an experiment in tea-culture. It was found +that there was no difficulty in raising the plants; but when it came to +manipulating the product the high price of labor made it unprofitable. +When we can furnish labor for the same price that it can be had in +China, Japan, Java, and India, we can compete with those countries in +growing tea, but until that time we had better let the business alone.'" + +[Illustration: ROASTING-BASKET.] + + + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +EASTERN JAVA, LOMBOCK, TIMOR, AND THE ARU ISLANDS. + + +Greatly pleased with their visit to the tea and coffee plantations, our +friends returned to Bandong. On the way back they had an accident that +for a few moments was quite exciting, and threatened serious results. +While descending a long hill the brake of the carriage gave way, and the +horses started on a full gallop; they were quite out of the control of +the driver, and the two footmen were left a long way behind. The driver +managed to turn his team into a side road at the risk of an overturn, +and gave them a little practice in running up hill instead of down. +Gradually they reduced their pace, and some workmen in a field close at +hand came to his assistance, and held the horses till the grooms could +come up. One of the springs of the carriage was broken, in the severe +shaking they had received, but otherwise the vehicle was not much +injured. + +It was necessary to stop a day at Bandong to have the carriage repaired, +and the delay enabled the boys to learn something more about the +country. + +[Illustration: VOLCANO IN EASTERN JAVA.] + +They ascertained that, if they had the time to spare, they could go to +the eastern capitals of Java along good roads, and through a succession +of mountains and plains. They would see volcanoes, both active and +silent, and might possibly have a practical acquaintance with an +earthquake, or an eruption of one of the burning mountains. Frank was a +little doubtful of the safety of such a journey when he learned that one +volcano had thrown out, in a single night, ashes and scoriæ to the depth +of fifty feet over an area of several miles, destroying forty villages +and three thousand people; and another volcano had overwhelmed +everything within twenty miles of it, and caused the deaths of twenty +thousand persons. But the Doctor assured him that the eruption of a +volcano was not so sudden that those who wished to get away could not do +so, and the majority of the burning mountains of the world were +accustomed to give warning weeks and sometimes months ahead. + +[Illustration: RUINS NEAR SOURABAYA.] + +The eastern capitals of Java are Samarang and Sourabaya, but they are +capitals only of the provinces of the same names. Both of them are +important commercial points; and there is a railway from Samarang which +is intended in course of time to unite with the one from Batavia. +Samarang is about two hundred and fifty miles from Batavia, or nearly +half-way from one end of the island to the other; while Sourabaya is +close to the eastern extremity, and not far from the island of Madura. +The country around Sourabaya is quite flat, and very fertile; and the +roads sometimes run for miles in perfectly straight lines. Back towards +the interior, when the hilly region is reached, there is a magnificent +forest, where tigers abound; and the hunter is rewarded by frequent +shots at the beautiful Java peacock. The country is full of ruins of +temples and palaces; and there are many evidences that it was once +occupied by a people greatly advanced in architecture and the fine arts. + +"But what should we find if we went beyond Java?" Fred asked. + +Just as he spoke the door opened, and a gentleman entered. He proved to +be their host of the coffee plantation, who had heard of their accident, +and called to congratulate them on their escape from injury. After an +exchange of civilities, he seated himself, and asked if he could be of +any service; and, turning to Fred, he said, + +"I heard your question as I entered the room, and think I can answer it. +I have made the journey around the Dutch possessions in the East, and +will try to tell you about them." + +Both the boys expressed their delight at the chance of learning +something of the islands of the Oriental Seas. The gentleman said he had +an hour to spare, and would endeavor to enable them to pass it +agreeably; and if they wanted to take any notes of what he said, they +were welcome to do so. + +They were desirous and ready, and he began at once. + +"I have twice made the journey," said he; "once by steamer, and once by +native boats." + +"Do the steamers run there regularly?" one of the boys inquired. + +"Certainly," was the reply; "the company whose ship brought you from +Singapore to Batavia sends a steamer every month to make the tour of the +Dutch East Indies. It leaves Batavia on the 15th of the month, and +Sourabaya on the 22d; and goes to Macassar, Menado, Ternate, Boeroe, +Amboina, Banda, and Timor, and then returns to Sourabaya and Batavia. +The voyage takes about a month, and the steamer remains in each port +from twenty-four to forty-eight hours." + +"What a delightful voyage it must be," said Frank; "and how much does it +cost?" + +[Illustration: AN ISLAND PORT.] + +"A ticket for the round trip," the gentleman replied, "costs three +hundred dollars, and sometimes more. You have already found that +steamship fares in the East are dear; and this line forms no exception +to the rule. In return for your money you have all the comforts the ship +can give; and you may live on board all the time she remains in port at +the different stopping-places. + +"If you go by a native boat you will be much longer on the way; but you +can visit more places than the steamer stops at, and can see more of the +life of the East. We will drop that part of the subject, and consider +what you might see in some of the islands of the Malay Archipelago, +supposing you should go there; we haven't time for all of them. + +"The colonial possessions of the Dutch in the Archipelago comprise about +six hundred thousand square miles, with a population of twenty-five +millions. They include the whole of Java and Madura, the Moluccas, or +Spice Islands, and large portions of Borneo and Sumatra. Consequently, +you can make a long journey without once going out of the Dutch +territory." + +[Illustration: WILD FIG-TREE.] + +"The first place I visited, after leaving Sourabaya, was the island of +Lombock. There is not much of interest in the principal port, which is +called Ampanam, as the place is small, and the inhabitants are not +particularly enterprising. There are some groves of wild fig-trees close +to the town; and one of my amusements was to shoot the green pigeons and +orioles that abounded there. Some of the trees are almost covered with +the hanging-nests of the orioles; and, as they are rarely disturbed by +the natives, I found them so tame that it required no skill at all to +get near enough to shoot them. + +[Illustration: A VILLAGE IN LOMBOCK.] + +"Several miles out in the country from Ampanam is the village where the +Rajah of the island lives; it is called Mataram, and no native of the +lower classes is allowed to ride on horseback through it. If you should +happen to be travelling there, and had your Javanese servant mounted on +a horse, he would be obliged to walk from one end of the town to the +other, and lead his animal. + +[Illustration: VIEW NEAR MATARAM.] + +"There is a fine volcano in Lombock, about eight thousand feet high. Mr. +Wallace tells a good story in connection with this volcano, and the plan +by which the Rajah took the census of the population of the island. + +"You must know that the principal product of Lombock is rice, and the +taxes are paid in this article. Each man, woman, and child contributed a +small measure of rice once a year; but it passed through many hands +before it reached the treasury, and a little of it clung to each hand +that it touched. The result was that the Rajah did not get half of what +was due him, and all his officers conspired to tell him that the crops +were short in some districts, and many people had died in others; and no +matter what he did to find out the truth, they managed to prevent his +learning it. He determined to take a census of his people, but did not +know how to go at it, as his officers would suspect what it was for, +and would make out the population according to the rice that he received +the previous year. He thought a long time over the matter, and finally +hit on a plan so shrewd that nobody suspected there was any census at +all. + +"For several days he appeared to be very sick at heart; and finally he +called his officers together, and told them he had been summoned to go +to the top of the great fire-mountain to hear a revelation from the +spirit who ruled the island. The spirit had come to him in a vision, and +said he must go there at once, or the island would be destroyed. + +[Illustration: WHERE THE GREAT SPIRIT AND THE RAJAH MET.] + +"Of course they made arrangements immediately, and a grand procession +accompanied the Rajah to the designated spot. From the foot of the +mountain to the summit he was escorted by a few priests and attendants; +and as he neared the crater he ordered them to remain behind, under the +shadow of a great rock, while he went alone to meet the spirit. He +remained away for a long time; the fact is, he lay down and took a +comfortable nap, and it was naturally thought that the spirit had a +great deal to say to him. + +"When he returned he was silent and sorrowful, and did not speak a word +for three days. Then he summoned his officers, and told them what the +spirit had said. He described the spirit as having a face of burnished +gold, and a voice that sounded like distant thunder. + +"'Oh, Rajah!' the spirit said, 'much plague, and sickness, and fever are +coming on the earth--on men, and horses, and cattle; but as you and your +people have obeyed me and come to the mountain, and have been good and +faithful, I will tell you how you can avoid the pestilence. + +"'You must make twelve sacred krisses; and to make them, every village +and every district must send a bundle of needles--a needle for every +head in the village. And when any disease appears in a village, one of +the krisses shall be sent there; if every house in that village has sent +the right number of needles, the disease shall cease immediately; but if +the number of needles has not been exact, then all shall die!' + +"So the princes and chiefs made haste to collect the needles; and they +were very exact about it, for they feared that, if a single needle +should be wanting in any case, the whole village would perish. When the +needles were collected, the Rajah received them; then he had a workman +come and make twelve krisses from those needles; but the papers that +were around the needles, and told the name of each village, and the +number of men, women, and children in it, he carefully preserved, and +put away in his private chest. + +"When the rice-tax came in that year, and the quantity fell short, the +Rajah said to the officers that there was some mistake about it. He then +told them the exact number of inhabitants in that village, according to +the packages of needles, and it did not take long to set the matter +right. The result was that the Rajah grew very rich, and his fame went +out through all the islands and countries of the East." + +"A capital story," said Frank; and the opinion was emphatically endorsed +by Fred. + +"It is evident," the latter remarked, "that the kriss, or dagger, is +held in great respect in Lombock." + +"Certainly," said the gentleman, in reply; "there is no part of the +Archipelago where it is more honored, and where the wealthy natives have +so much money invested in this weapon. Very often they have them with +golden handles set with jewels; and I have seen some that cost thousands +of dollars. Every man carries one of these knives, and frequently it is +the only property he can boast of possessing. The blade is twisted; and +when it is used it makes a frightful wound." + +"That is what the Malays 'run a-muck' with, is it not?" Frank asked. + +"Yes; and Lombock is one of the most famous places in the East for that +amusement. The island, though close to Java, is independent, and the +Rajah does pretty much what he pleases as long as he remains on good +terms with his Dutch neighbors. The taxes are not heavy, but the laws +are very severe. Small thefts are punished with death; and it is a rule +of the country that a person found in a house after dark, without the +owner's consent, may be killed, and his body thrown into the street, +without fear that anybody will ask a question about the matter. + +"The word 'amok' means 'kill;' and the Malays kill others in the +expectation that others will kill them. Running amok is the fashionable +way of committing suicide; a man grows desperate from any cause, and +determines to put an end to his life, and to kill as many others as he +can before he is killed himself. He grasps his kriss handle, and stabs +somebody to the heart; then he rushes down the street, shouting 'amok! +amok!' and stabbing everybody he can reach. People rush on him with +knives, spears, daggers, guns, or other weapons, and despatch him as +soon as possible--as they would a mad dog. Sometimes five or ten persons +are killed by the man before he is brought down; and I know one instance +where sixteen were killed or wounded by a native running amok. + +"The Malays are excellent workers of steel, and the weapons they make +are difficult to surpass in fineness and beauty. The marvellous thing is +that they will accomplish so much with the rudest implements; a smith +has a small forge, a hammer or two, and a few files, and with these and +one or two other things he will turn out work that astonishes the +skilled artificers of Sheffield. A Malay gunsmith produces weapons that +shoot with precision, and are bored with perfect accuracy; but the +boring is done without any machinery whatever. This is the apparatus: + +[Illustration: GUN-BORING IN LOMBOCK.] + +"There is an upright pole which is thrust through a bamboo basket; its +top is fastened to a cross-bar, and the bottom is equipped with an iron +ring in which boring-irons can be fitted. The barrel to be bored is set +in the ground, the basket is filled with stones to give it weight, and +two boys turn the cross-bar to make the boring-iron revolve. The barrel +is bored in sections about eighteen inches long; and these are welded +together, and afterwards bored to the required size. + +[Illustration: NATIVES OF TIMOR.] + +"Considerably to the eastward of Lombock is the island of Timor, which +is interesting because it is one of the few places where the Portuguese +have a local habitation and a name in the Malay Archipelago. Timor is +about three hundred miles long by sixty wide, and is partly occupied by +the Dutch and partly by the Portuguese. The Dutch settlements are at the +western end, and their principal town is Coupang; it has a mixed +population of Malays, Chinese, and Dutch, in addition to the natives, +who are closely allied to the natives of Papua, or New Guinea, and have +very little affinity with the Malay race. They are of a dirty brown +color, and have large noses and frizzled hair, so that they strongly +resemble the negro. + +[Illustration: DELLI, PORTUGUESE TIMOR.] + +"The seat of the Portuguese part of Timor is at Delli, a miserable +village of thatched huts, with a mud fort, and very little appearance of +civilization. The governor's house is a trifle better than the rest, +but not much; and the place has a reputation for fever that is not at +all agreeable for a stranger. I don't think much of Delli, and never +heard of any one who did. + +"The Portuguese government in Timor is a very shadowy affair, and the +sooner it comes to an end the better. It has been there three hundred +years, and yet there is not a mile of road in the interior of the +country, and the agricultural resources of the island have received no +development. The example of the Dutch in Java seems to be quite lost on +the Portuguese, who oppress the inhabitants in every possible way, and +plunder them without fear of punishment." + +Frank asked if Timor was one of the islands where the bird of paradise +is found. + +"No," replied the gentleman; "but it is not far from there to the Aru +Islands, where the Great Bird of Paradise lives. I went from Timor to +Aru in a native boat, and narrowly escaped drowning on the way. We were +caught in a storm, and anchored near a small island off the coast of +Aru; the Malay anchor is a stick of wood from the fork of a tree, with a +stone to give it weight, and, as it has only one fluke, you can never be +sure that it goes down so as to seize the bottom. Ours bothered us so +that we had to throw it several times, and when we finally got it to +hold we were not twenty yards from the rocks where the wind was driving +us. + +"But a miss is as good as a mile, and we were safe on shore the next +morning, very thankful at our escape. + +"I had an opportunity to go to the forest to see the process of shooting +the Great Bird of Paradise, and went at once. Quite a trade is carried +on in these birds, and the skill of the natives is devoted to capturing +them without staining their plumage with blood, or allowing the birds to +injure it during their struggles. + +"The birds have a curious habit of getting up dancing-parties in the +month of May, when their plumage is finest. They assemble before sunrise +in a tree that has plenty of room among its branches for them to move +about, and as soon as the sun is fairly up they begin their dancing. +They elevate their plumes as peacocks display their tails, stretch their +necks, raise their wings, and hop from branch to branch in a state of +great excitement. + +[Illustration: NATIVES OF ARU SHOOTING THE GREAT BIRD OF PARADISE.] + +"The natives hunt through the forest till they find a tree where the +birds assemble. They go there in the evening and build a screen of +leaves over the fork of the tree, and just before daylight they climb up +there ready for business. They keep perfectly still till the birds are +busily engaged in their dance, and then they shoot with blunt-pointed +arrows. The bird is stunned and falls to the ground, and before he +recovers he is seized by a boy who is waiting for him; the bird's neck +is broken without injuring the skin, and thus the prize is secured +without staining the feathers with blood." + +Fred asked if, when one bird was shot, the rest did not fly away. + +"Not by any means," was the answer. "They are so busy with displaying +their feathers to each other, that they do not take notice of the +disappearance of one of their number until they are greatly reduced. The +morning I went out to see the business, I was stationed in a little +bower about a hundred yards from the tree where the birds were, so that +I could see all that went on. There were twenty-one birds there, all +beautiful males, and they made the prettiest sight of the kind that ever +came before my eyes. The natives shot fifteen of them, and finally one +of the birds was not hit hard enough to prevent his screaming as he +fell. The others then took the alarm, and in two minutes they were all +out of sight." + +[Illustration: A NATIVE ANCHOR.] + + + + +CHAPTER XXXII. + +WANDERINGS IN THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO.--GOOD-BYE. + + +"There is an interesting point in the Aru Islands," the gentleman +remarked, after a short pause, "known as Dobbo." + +[Illustration: GREAT STREET OF DOBBO IN THE TRADING SEASON.] + +"It is not regularly visited by steamers, as it is out of the routes of +travel, and for a part of the year it is almost deserted. In May and +June it is filled to overflowing with a mixed lot of people from all +parts of the East. There are Chinese in considerable number, who come to +buy the articles brought to market by the inhabitants of the islands for +a long distance; and there are men from Macassar, Timor, Ceram, and +other parts of the Archipelago, as well as the natives of Aru, who +belong to the Papuans I have already described. The town consists of a +single street of mat-covered huts and sheds, with a lot of straggling +buildings in the rear that are set down without any regard to order or +regularity. + +"I went to Dobbo in a native boat from Macassar. It was very much like a +Chinese junk in general appearance, and about seventy tons burden, with +a native crew of thirty men and a Javanese captain. Four or five of the +men were slave-debtors of the captain, and the rest were hired, like the +crew of a ship in Europe or America." + +"Excuse me for interrupting," said Fred, "but let me ask what these +slave-debtors are." + +"Slave indebtedness," replied the gentleman, "is a system introduced by +the Dutch, who borrowed it from the Chinese, for the protection of +traders in these thinly-peopled regions. Goods must be intrusted to +agents and small dealers, who frequently gamble them away, and leave the +merchant unpaid. He trusts them again and again, with the same result; +and finally, when he can stand it no longer, he brings them before a +police court, where he establishes his claim. The magistrate then binds +the debtor over to the creditor, and requires him to work out the +account. The plan seems to answer very well, as the creditor is secure +so long as the debtor lives and has his health; while the debtor does +not consider himself disgraced, but rather enjoys his relief from +responsibility." + +"But it is a system of slavery," Fred answered; "though, after all, it +is more sensible than the European practice of locking a debtor up in +jail, where he can earn nothing, but is a constant expense to himself +and all others concerned." + +"A good deal depends on the character of the master," was the reply. +"Some masters get along very pleasantly with their debtors--allow them +to trade a little on their own account--and associate with them on equal +terms. + +[Illustration: WEARING THE CANGUE.] + +"Others treat them harshly--perhaps not without cause--sometimes, and +punish them severely for disobedience. While I was at Dobbo, a Chinese +merchant fastened one of his slave-debtors in a cangue, and kept him +there an entire day, chained to the wall of his shop. The man had been +caught stealing from his master, and the latter made himself judge, +jury, and police-officer without delay. The cangue is a wooden collar +around the neck; it is about three feet square, and made of planks from +one to two inches thick. It is a heavy article of wearing apparel, and +not at all ornamental." + +Frank asked if the native captains understood navigation after the +European form, and could take the positions of the sun and moon with +instruments like those used on American or European ships. + +"They are not good navigators," responded their informant, "as we +understand navigation, but they manage to get along wonderfully well +with very rude appliances. They take the altitude of the sun with a +stick, to which is attached a string with a peculiar arrangement of +knots; and they understand the use of the compass. They have a +water-clock, which is very simple, and much more accurate than you would +suppose. + +"It consists of a bucket of water, and the half of a cocoa-nut shell. +There is a tiny hole like the prick of a needle in the bottom of the +shell, and when you put it on the water you can just see a stream like a +thread spurting up. It takes an hour to fill the shell, and when it is +full it goes plump to the bottom of the bucket, making a bubbling noise +that attracts the attention of the man on duty, who immediately puts +the shell in place again. I used to try it with my watch, and found that +it never varied more than a minute from the hour, which is quite +accurate enough for an Oriental. The motion of the boat had no effect on +it, as the water in the bucket was always on a level. + +"The voyages of these boats are made with the monsoons, so that the +course is largely guided by studying the direction of the wind. Only one +voyage can be made in a year from Macassar--the boats starting in +December or January with the west monsoon, and returning in July or +August with the east monsoon. The distance is about a thousand miles, +and is made in from twenty to thirty days each way. + +[Illustration: A NATIVE OF ARU.] + +"The trade at Dobbo amounts to something near a hundred thousand dollars +a year, and is carried on in the most primitive way. It is almost +entirely a barter trade; there is no money in use except copper coins +from Java and China, and many of the natives do not even know their +value. It requires a great deal of talk to make a bargain, and sometimes +they will haggle for hours over a transaction that amounts to only a few +cents. + +[Illustration: SEA-CUCUMBER.] + +"The things brought from the islands, and bought by the traders, are +pearl-shells, tortoise-shell, edible birds'-nests, pearls, timber, and +birds of paradise. There is also a large supply of _tripang_, or +'beche-de-mer,' of which the Chinese make many soups. It is known in +English as the sea-cucumber, and is taken on the reefs and among the +rocks all through the Eastern seas, and in some parts of the Pacific +Ocean. After being boiled in its own liquid, and dried on racks over a +fire, it is ready for market. + +[Illustration: A PAPUAN PIPE.] + +"The goods used in purchasing these articles are as varied as the +purchasers. The most important item is that of arrack--a spirit +distilled from rice, and resembling rum; about twenty thousand gallons +of it are sold at Dobbo every year, and sometimes as many as twenty-five +thousand. English and American cottons are sold; and also tobacco, +crockery, knives, muskets, gunpowder, Chinese gongs, small cannons, and +elephants' tusks. The last three articles are the luxuries with which +the natives of Aru buy their wives, and display in their houses or +conceal as valuable property. They use tobacco both for chewing and +smoking, and will not accept it unless it is very strong. The native +pipe is similar to that used in Papua, or New Guinea, and is made of +wood, with a long upright handle, which is set in the ground while the +owner is using it. He squats before the pipe, and when in this position +his mouth is just on a level with the end of the stem. + +"I went from Dobbo to Amboyna and Banda, which are small islands not far +from the much greater one of Ceram. They formerly belonged to the +Portuguese, but are now in possession of the Dutch, and known to the +commercial world for their products of cloves and nutmegs." + +"I have read somewhere," said Frank, "that the Dutch destroyed the +spice-trees on all the other islands, so as to have a monopoly in Banda +and Amboyna. Was it not very unjust to the natives to do that?" + +"All the facts in the case are not generally known," was the reply. "The +Portuguese traders maintained high prices for these luxuries, and used +to oppress the natives to obtain them. Sometimes the competition led to +their paying such figures to the native princes that the latter became +very wealthy, but their subjects were not benefited by them. When the +Dutch came into possession, they determined to concentrate the culture +in a few places, so that they could control it, and to this end they +offered an annual subsidy to the native princes to destroy the +spice-trees in their dominions. The latter were thus made sure of their +revenue, while the people were able to devote more time to the +cultivation of articles of food, and were relieved from taxes. + +"The cultivation of the clove was restricted to the island of Amboyna, +while Banda was made the seat of the nutmeg culture. There was so much +complaint on the part of the English that the monopoly was finally +removed in part; the trade is still surrounded with restrictions, as the +Dutch are in possession of the islands where the culture can be +conducted to the best advantage. It is a curious circumstance that the +birds had much to do with the suppression of the monopoly." + +"The birds?" + +[Illustration: A BIRD OF AMBOYNA.] + +"Yes, a bird known as the nutmeg-pigeon. He lives on the mace which +envelops the nutmeg; the latter is undigested and uninjured in his +stomach, and he carries it to islands of whose existence the Dutch were +not aware. The nutmeg is the seed of the tree, and as fast as the Dutch +suppressed the cultivation in an island the birds restored it. Banda is +still the centre of the nutmeg trade, as the article is produced more +cheaply there than in any other spot, and it sends about two million +pounds of this spice to market every year. The climate of Amboyna was +found not altogether suited to the production of the clove; and as the +clove-tree flourishes in other parts of the world, the monopoly could +not be kept up. The clove is not the fruit of the tree, as many persons +suppose, but the blossom; it is gathered before it is unfolded, and if +you look at a clove you will see how much it resembles a bud just ready +for opening. + +"From Banda I went to Ceram, to see the process of obtaining sago. +Perhaps you are fond of sago-pudding, and may be interested to know +where sago comes from, and how it is prepared." + +The boys nodded their assent, and Frank remarked that he had many times +wished he knew more about the delicious article. + +"The sago-tree belongs to the palm family; it is thicker and larger than +the cocoa-palm, but not so tall, and its leaves are very large and long. +The stem of the leaf is twelve or fifteen feet long, and six inches in +diameter at the butt, and is used for a great many purposes. Whole +houses are built of these stems, from the framework to the thatch-poles +and flooring, and they never shrink or bend, or require any paint or +varnish. The leaf forms an admirable thatch, and the trunk of the tree +is the food of many thousands of people. + +[Illustration: SAGO CLUB.] + +"When it is about fifteen years old the tree blossoms, and then dies. +Just as it is about to blossom, it is cut down close to the ground, and +stripped of its leaves. The upper part of the trunk is then taken off, +so as to expose the pith of the tree, which is broken into a coarse +powder by means of a club of heavy wood, having a piece of iron or sharp +stone in one end. The whole inside of the tree is broken up till the +trunk forms a trough not more than half an inch thick. + +[Illustration: PREPARING SAGO.] + +[Illustration: SAGO OVEN.] + +"The dry powder is then washed, and strained through a coarse sieve; +the water flows into a deep trough with a depression in the centre, +where the sago sinks to the bottom and is secured. It is then pressed +into cylinders weighing about thirty pounds each, or it is baked into +cakes in a clay oven, with a series of compartments an inch wide, and +six inches long and deep. The cakes will keep a long while if they are +dried in the sun after baking. I have eaten sago that was said to be ten +years old, and found it perfectly good." + +Fred wished to know how much sago there was in a tree, and how much it +costs for a man to live in the sago country. + +"A single tree will produce from eight hundred to one thousand pounds of +sago," was the reply, "which will support a man for a year. Two men can +reduce a tree to dry powder in five days, and therefore we may say that +ten days' labor will support a man for a year. The result is that in +the sago country the people are indolent, and not at all prosperous; +they have no incentive to work, and therefore make no effort to do +anything. They wear very little clothing; and as for their houses, they +have no occasion for anything more than rude huts, which can be built by +a couple of men in a few hours. It has been observed by all who have +visited Ceram that the inhabitants are not as well off as the people of +the islands that produce rice, as the latter must work a great deal +harder to support themselves, and will lose their whole crop unless they +pay attention to their fields. + +[Illustration: SUGAR-PALM OF MACASSAR.] + +"From Ceram I went to Macassar, where they have a palm-tree producing a +sweet juice that may be made into beer, or boiled down into sugar, like +the sap of a maple-tree. It is not unlike the sago-palm in general +appearance, and will grow wherever it can find sufficient soil for its +roots. The island is very rough and mountainous, and the variety of soil +enables it to produce a great many things. I was invited to stay on the +plantation of a friend who lived among the hills, and promised me a +pleasant time. + +[Illustration: CLIMBING THE MOUNTAIN.] + +"The road to the plantation was very steep in several places, and the +mules that we rode had all they could do to carry us. The path wound in +and out among the rocks, and under the trees peculiar to the tropics; +and one of the trees came near being the cause of my falling over a high +cliff." + +"How was that?" + +"Fruit was so abundant that the natives did not gather all of it as fast +as it ripened; every little while I saw mangoes or bananas lying in the +path, and the incident I mention was caused by my mule stepping on a +banana and slipping to the ground. He left me sprawling just on the edge +of the cliff; if he had pitched me a foot farther, I should have gone +over and been dashed to death on the rocks below. + +"I stayed with my friend a week, and found that he had a most delightful +residence. He was fond of hunting, and was able to supply his table with +meat by means of his gun and dogs. There were many wild pigs in the +neighborhood, and he shot two of them while I was there, so that we had +pork in abundance. Then there were several kinds of birds that were +excellent eating. He had all the milk he wanted from his buffaloes, and +made his own butter, raised his own rice and coffee, and smoked cigars +from his own tobacco. He had ducks and chickens, and eggs in any desired +quantity; his palm-trees supplied him with palm-wine and sugar, and he +had nearly every tropical fruit that can be named. You see, by this +account of his plantation, how well a man may live in one of the islands +of the Archipelago, provided he can reconcile himself to the absence of +society, and be contented with the sport that the hilly country affords. + +[Illustration: COMING DOWN THE MOUNTAIN.] + +"When I came away my friend accompanied me down the mountain, and I +found the journey much easier than going up; in fact, it was too easy, +and the mules were inclined to go faster than we liked to have them. A +part of the way I hired a boy to hang on to the tail of my beast, which +he did, somewhat to the annoyance of the latter. This kind of check was +evidently new to him, and he tried to elevate his heels sufficiently to +shake off the encumbrance. But he could not do so without danger of +turning a somersault; and consequently his kicking was confined to a few +slight movements. When the path became less steep I dismissed the boy, +and the animal went along as demurely as ever. + +"But my time is up," said the gentleman, looking at his watch, "and your +note-books are full. I am sorry I have not another hour or two in which +to tell you of Celebes, where the Dutch have established the same system +of culture that has made Java so prosperous; of Borneo, where the people +and the products form a study of unusual interest; of New Guinea, a +country rarely visited by Europeans; and of many other parts of the +Eastern Archipelago. Perhaps we will meet again one of these days, and +then I will try to give you more information similar to what I have been +narrating, and trust you will not find it without interest." + +Frank and Fred were earnest in their thanks to their kind informant; and +the Doctor added his words of indebtedness to theirs. Expressions of +regret at their separation were made on both sides, and the final +hand-shaking was the cause of little lumps in youthful and manly throats +that choked the voices, and made the "good-byes" a trifle husky in their +utterance. + +At the stipulated time the repairs to the carriage were completed, and +our friends made all haste back to Buitenzorg, and thence to Batavia. At +their banker's they found a large parcel of letters, which had just +arrived by the last mail from Singapore; and the evening of their return +from the interior was devoted to the perusal of the precious missives +from home. The next day found them busy with plans for their future +movements, and you may be sure that the map of the eastern hemisphere +was thoroughly studied, and the routes of travel and commerce carefully +examined. In this occupation we will leave the Doctor and his young +companions, with the assurance that in due time the Bassett and Bronson +families, and all their friends, Miss Effie included, will be fully +informed of the adventures that befell + +THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE FAR EAST. + +[Illustration: "GOOD-BYE!"] + + + + +INTERESTING BOOKS FOR BOYS. + + +THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE FAR EAST. Part I. Adventures of Two Youths in +a Journey to Japan and China. By THOMAS W. KNOX. Copiously Illustrated. +8vo, Cloth, $3.00. + +THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE FAR EAST. Part II. Adventures of Two Youths in +a Journey to Siam and Java. With Descriptions of Cochin-China, Cambodia, +Sumatra, and the Malay Archipelago. By THOMAS W. KNOX. Copiously +Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $3.00. + +THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE FAR EAST. Part III. Adventures of Two Youths +in a Journey to Ceylon and India. With Descriptions of Borneo, the +Philippine Islands, and Burmah. By THOMAS W. KNOX. Copiously +Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $3.00. + +HUNTING ADVENTURES ON LAND AND SEA. The Young Nimrods in North America. +A Book for Boys. By THOMAS W. KNOX. Copiously Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, +$2.50. + +THE HISTORY OF A MOUNTAIN. By ÉLISÉE RECLUS. Illustrated by L. Bennett. +12mo, Cloth, $1.25. + +WHAT MR. DARWIN SAW IN HIS VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD IN THE SHIP "BEAGLE." +Ill'd. 8vo, Cloth, $3.00. + +FRIENDS WORTH KNOWING. Glimpses of American Natural History. By ERNEST +INGERSOLL. Illustrated. 16mo, Cloth, $1.00. + +WHO WAS PAUL GRAYSON? By JOHN HABBERTON, Author of "Helen's Babies." +Illustrated. 16mo, Cloth, $1.00. + +TOBY TYLER; or, Ten Weeks with a Circus. By JAMES OTIS. Illustrated. +16mo, Cloth, $1.00. + +THE MORAL PIRATES. By W. L. ALDEN. Ill'd. 16mo, Cloth, $1.00. + +HOW TO GET STRONG, AND HOW TO STAY SO. By WILLIAM BLAIKIE. With +Illustrations. 16mo, Cloth, $1.00. + +THE STORY OF LIBERTY. By CHARLES CARLETON COFFIN. Illustrated. 8vo, +Cloth, $3.00. + +OLD TIMES IN THE COLONIES. By CHARLES CARLETON COFFIN. Illustrated. 8vo, +Cloth, $3.00. + +THE BOYS OF '76. A History of the Battles of the Revolution. By CHARLES +CARLETON COFFIN. Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $3.00. + +THE ADVENTURES OF A YOUNG NATURALIST. By LUCIEN BIART. With 117 +Illustrations. 12mo, Cloth, $1.75. + +AN INVOLUNTARY VOYAGE. By LUCIEN BIART. Illustrated. 12mo, Cloth, $1.25. + +ROUND THE WORLD; including a Residence in Victoria, and a Journey by +Rail across North America. By a Boy. Edited by SAMUEL SMILES. +Illustrated. 12mo, Cloth, $1.50. + +THE SELF-HELP SERIES. By SAMUEL SMILES. + + SELF-HELP. 12mo, Cloth, $1.00.--CHARACTER. 12mo, Cloth, + $1.00.--THRIFT. 12mo, Cloth, $1.00.--DUTY, 12mo, Cloth, $1.00. + +THE BOYHOOD OF MARTIN LUTHER; or, The Sufferings of the Little +Beggar-Boy who afterward became the Great German Reformer. By HENRY +MAYHEW. Illustrated. 16mo, Cloth, $1.25. + +THE STORY OF THE PEASANT-BOY PHILOSOPHER. (Founded on the Early Life of +Ferguson, the Shepherd-Boy Astronomer, and intended to show how a Poor +Lad became acquainted with the Principles of Natural Science.) By HENRY +MAYHEW. 16mo, Cloth, $1.25. + +YOUNG BENJAMIN FRANKLIN. A Story to show how Young Benjamin learned the +Principles which raised him from a Printer's Boy to the First Ambassador +of the American Republic. By HENRY MAYHEW. Illustrated. 16mo, Cloth, +$1.25. + +THE WONDERS OF SCIENCE; or, Young Humphry Davy (the Cornish Apothecary's +Boy who taught himself Natural Philosophy, and eventually became +President of the Royal Society). The Life of a Wonderful Boy. By HENRY +MAYHEW. 16mo, Cloth, $1.25. + +THE BOYHOOD OF GREAT MEN. By JOHN G. EDGAR. Illustrated. 16mo, Cloth, +$1.00. + +THE FOOTPRINTS OF FAMOUS MEN. By JOHN G. EDGAR. Illustrated. 16mo, +Cloth, $1.00. + +HISTORY FOR BOYS; or, Annals of the Nations of Modern Europe. By JOHN G. +EDGAR. Illustrated. 16mo, Cloth, $1.00. + +SEA-KINGS AND NAVAL HEROES. A Book for Boys. By JOHN G. EDGAR. +Illustrated. 16mo, Cloth, $1.00. + +THE WARS OF THE ROSES. By JOHN G. EDGAR. Illustrated. 16mo, Cloth, +$1.00. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Boy Travellers in the Far East +Part Second, by Thomas W. Knox + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 58175 *** |
