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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of Residence in the New Hebrides,

+S.W. Pacific Ocean, by C. Bice and A. Brittain

+

+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with

+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or

+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included

+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license

+

+

+Title: Journal of Residence in the New Hebrides, S.W. Pacific Ocean

+

+Author: C. Bice

+        A. Brittain

+

+Release Date: October 9, 2018 [EBook #58060]

+

+Language: English

+

+Character set encoding: UTF-8

+

+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL ***

+

+

+

+

+Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed

+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was

+produced from scans of public domain works at The National

+Library of Australia.)

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+

+

+                                JOURNAL

+

+                   OF RESIDENCE IN THE NEW HEBRIDES,

+                          S.W. PACIFIC OCEAN.

+

+

+                     WRITTEN DURING THE YEAR 1886,

+

+                                  BY

+

+                    REVDS. C. BICE AND A. BRITTAIN.

+

+

+                                TRURO:

+

+                  NETHERTON AND WORTH, LEMON STREET.

+

+                                 1887.

+

+

+

+

+PREFACE.

+

+

+I have been induced to publish the following Journals at the request of

+some friends who have perused them, and think they will prove

+interesting to others. The Journal of the Rev. A. Brittain arrived too

+late for insertion in the ‘Island Voyage’ for this year, and I have been

+requested by the Rev. William Selwyn, the Secretary of the Melanesian

+Mission, to print it with my own. I do this with the greater pleasure,

+because his report will not only supply me with a good excuse for

+rushing into print, but will furnish others with a more full and

+complete account of the work of the Melanesian Mission in the New

+Hebrides.

+

+The three islands herein spoken of are the Northernmost of the

+above-mentioned group--the New Hebrides--and form the Southern boundary

+of the Melanesian Mission work in the islands of the South-west Pacific

+Ocean.

+

+Araga (or Pentecost) and Maewo (or Aurora) are long and mountainous

+islands running almost North and South, about forty miles each in

+length, and separated by a narrow channel three miles wide. Opa (or

+Leper’s Island) runs at right angles to these, a broad, massive, grand

+looking country, resembling in appearance a huge whale, the hump of

+which rises to a height of over 4000 feet.

+

+Araga and Opa are thickly populated, but Maewo has a scattered and

+sparse population. Opa is about sixteen miles from Araga, but a channel

+of only five miles in width separates it from Maewo.

+

+The languages and dispositions of these neighbouring lands are much more

+varied and dissimilar than would naturally be inferred from their close

+propinquity. And the majority of the people, too, seem to prefer an

+inland situation, all which serve to make the work of the Missionary the

+more arduous and difficult. On these islands every outward prospect is

+pleasing, and the inhabitants themselves not so far gone in vileness as

+to be incapable of improvement, as I hope the following pages will show.

+The work of the Melanesian Mission has been established in these islands

+a good many years now, with more or less success, and schools are in

+active operation as follows:--

+

+At ARAGA--Wonor, on the Southern face of the island, and Lamoru and

+Qatvenua on the North.

+

+At MAEWO--Tanrig, Tasmouri, Tasmate, Mandurvat, Naruru, and Uta. All

+these stations are on the North of the island.

+

+At OPA--Tavolavola, Lobaha, Walurigi, the most flourishing of which is

+that first mentioned.

+

+With these few preliminary remarks and explanations I leave the

+following simple pages to tell their own story.

+

+                                           CHARLES BICE.

+

+

+N.B.--The vowels in the Melanesian languages are pronounced as in

+     Italian: a = _ah_, e = _a_, i = _e_.

+

+      The letter written [¨n] = _ng_ in _singer_; d = _nd_, b = _mb_.

+

+

+

+

+                               JOURNAL.

+

+                                _1886._

+

+

+_Friday, 9th July._--The weather seaward looked very threatening as we

+stood on the Pier at the Settlement in readiness to embark. All the

+Melanesians, boys and girls, to the number of about 50 had already gone

+off to the ship which lay tossing and tumbling at her anchorage as if

+anxious to be let free. A considerable number of Norfolk Island friends

+were on the Pier, in addition to most of the Members of the Mission, to

+bid us Farewell and wish us GOD speed. Many thoughtful little mementos,

+too, found their way into our hands from our warm-hearted and well

+wishing friends. The process of shaking hands took some time in

+execution, but one could not but feel the absence of many who were

+unavoidably absent on the occasion. My own little ones were the last to

+bid me good-bye, and poor little Walter (my youngest son) was very

+tearful. Shortly after, we were all in the boat, and “let go” was called

+out. The landing was very smooth, and we got out with very little

+difficulty. Besides the Captain, Mr. Turnbull and myself were the only

+passengers. It was close upon 5 o’clock p.m. when we got on board, and

+some of the passengers had already begun to feel the motion of the

+ocean. After things were put into some order and the shore boat

+dismissed with Captain Bates and the Norfolk Island crew, the command to

+“heave away” was given, and then I saw for the first time the steam

+winch at work. Before many minutes the anchor was in its place in the

+bows of the ship, and the long process of raising the anchor in old

+days, performed by manual labour, reduced to a minimum. We slipped

+quietly down the leeside of the island, and had ample time to get into

+some amount of order and readiness for a very dirty, rough night.

+Opposite the Mission, the boys ashore had lit a large bonfire, and we

+could hear their shouts, borne seaward by the raging gale. As night

+closed in the sky became very dark and lowering, and we knew full well

+what we were to expect. We had dinner while still under the lee of the

+island, but before the meal was finished, we were knocking about in the

+heavy head gale. Of course any where but at Norfolk Island, where there

+is no certain shelter, it would be approaching madness to put to sea

+with such a crowd of people in a small ship on a night like this, but

+here there is no help for it. Perhaps had we not got away as we did, we

+might have been detained another week, from the uncertainty of wind

+changes and the insecurity of the anchorages. All night it blew very

+heavily, with a nasty head sea. Of course, the wind being very strong

+and dead ahead, we made little or no progress, and were in fact hove to.

+Most of the passengers spent a very unpleasant night, and the poor

+little children, of whom we had four on board, suffered like the others.

+The poor boys in the schoolroom had a disagreeable time, owing to the

+large amount of cargo on board, in addition to their own luggage. The

+_Southern Cross_, however, is a magnificent sea boat, although slightly

+lively, and being at sea was, to me at least, the worst of the evils we

+experienced that first night. Mr. Turnbull is a good sailor, and he and

+I were alone in the saloon. Poor old Manekalea I invited also to sleep

+there, on account of his blindness, and I asked Silas Kema to sleep

+there and look after him. Poor fellow, his sight seems quite gone, but

+he is wonderfully patient and resigned. I think now he begins to feel

+that there is no hope of his ever seeing again, and he begins to try and

+help himself and get about alone a great deal more than before. The loss

+of so young, active, and intelligent a Teacher must be much felt in the

+district of Ysabel, formerly under his charge.

+

+

+_Saturday, 10th._--The wind had abated little, if any, this morning, and

+the vessel was making little or no headway. It rained a good deal

+throughout the day, and that allayed both wind and sea by evening. Very

+few of the boys appeared on deck, and I myself was quite _hors de

+combat_. Mr. Turnbull kindly offered to read prayers in English for me

+in the Evening, and I managed the Mota with a few who were able to

+attend. These first days on board ship are very trying, one feels quite

+out of it altogether, and the sea legs are somewhat long in returning

+when one has been ashore for any length of time. Towards evening the

+weather moderated a little, but there was very little life about the

+ship. These unhappy days when one is the victim of _mal de mer_ leave a

+very unsatisfactory impression behind them, and if any recollection is

+left, it is always painful. I was not actually seasick myself, but I

+felt uncomfortable enough for a time, and did not care for ship’s fare.

+

+

+_Sunday, 11th._--The weather more moderate. I conducted Morning Prayer

+both in English and Mota, and generally our passengers were getting over

+their indisposition. It was not a very profitable day however to me, for

+I could not settle to anything: our Service hours on Sunday, at sea, are

+English Mattins at 9 o’clock a.m. and Evensong at 7 p.m. Mota 11 a.m.

+and 7.30 p.m. Our daily hours for meals are 8 a.m. breakfast, 12 noon

+lunch, 5 p.m. dinner. On Sunday this is slightly changed, and we dine at

+1, and tea at 5 p.m. At anchor, too, the English Morning Service is

+postponed to 10 a.m., and all the sailors are enabled to attend. Usually

+only one watch can be present while the vessel is at sea. This year we

+have a crew composed entirely of Englishmen. We have generally had

+previously a strong admixture of foreigners. The steward, indeed, is a

+German, but he has been with us so many voyages, speaks and reads

+English so well, that one quite forgets his nationality. The crew are a

+very nice, quiet, well-behaved set of men, and all look so respectable.

+I believe the Captain has many applications for billets on board the

+_Southern Cross_, she being a popular vessel now-a-days, besides, a trip

+in her is a paying affair, for I am told that sometimes the men realize

+from £10 to £30 and £40 by the sale of curios alone. The great collector

+on board now is John Brown the boatswain, and he has accumulated quite a

+museum, which he meditates taking to England for sale next year. Brown

+is an old Island Trader, and knows all the specialities of the trade and

+what will captivate the native taste. Penny whistles and half-penny

+looking glasses, I believe, are the line this trip. There is very keen

+competition too on board when the curio fields are reached, chiefly at

+Santa Cruz and some of the Solomon Islands. Sunday passed away somewhat

+profitlessly, and evening once more closed over a day past and gone. I

+did not give the sailors a Sermon, but reserved my efforts for the

+Melanesians, many of whom were able to attend. I naturally chose the

+subject of the Gospel as the basis of my remarks, viz: the recovery of

+the lost sheep and the piece of money, which I applied to the condition

+of the heathen to whom we were going, and our duty as seekers of those

+who were still wandering upon the mountains and upon every high hill,

+with none caring for them or seeking them out. We had some singing after

+the service, and the termination of the day at least was pleasant, and I

+hope profitable. One’s thoughts naturally wandered away back to Norfolk

+Island, and one thought of the quiet peaceful Sunday evenings there, and

+the love of those we had left. The vessel was much more at her ease this

+evening, and we could undress and rest in bed with more comfort.

+

+It was a great pleasure to me from this time forward, to see the boys

+dropping into the cabin one by one to say their prayers, unbidden but

+none the less welcome.

+

+

+_Monday, 12th July._--This morning the wind has moderated very

+considerably, and the sea is going down. The vessel moving along much

+more gently and easily, sometimes towards our destination. Life on board

+is almost utterly devoid of interest or excitement. There is little or

+nothing stirring, and out of our element we feel restless and not fit

+for much. We begin now however, to fall into ship-shape ways, and things

+begin to look a little straighter than they did. The boys are divided

+into sets of cooks, and have to take their turn in order to cook and

+keep the schoolroom clean. The Melanesians have three meals a day, and

+they are supposed to look after their own food, the cook giving

+directions as to what he wants doing. After the misery and prostration

+of _mal de mer_ have passed off, the boys get very lively, and do not

+easily again succumb.

+

+In the evening we had music. Brown the boatswain has a most ingenious

+instrument called, I think, the “Cabinetto,” which plays almost any

+tune; a piece of perforated paper is turned over a sort of key-board,

+like a mouth organ, by means of a handle, and the closed notes are kept

+silent, while the open ones speak according to the length of the

+perforation. Its tone is somewhat harsh, but the music is very correct,

+and there is plenty of it. Brown bought this instrument, which cost him

+some £15 or £16, for the special amusement of his young Melanesian

+friends. The girls never seem to tire of turning the handle, and the

+more it is turned the better the owner seems pleased. Forward there is a

+very good concertina, exceptionally well played by one of the sailors, a

+banjo played by another, and a tin plate beaten by a third makes a very

+fair tambourine. Altogether, the hour between 5 and 6 p.m. is very

+lively with strains of music and other enlivenments. The boys most

+thoroughly enjoy the music, and are very attentive and enthusiastic

+listeners, breaking in with a good chorus when they happen to know any

+of the pieces played. At 7 p.m. English Prayers, a shortened form of

+Evensong with a hymn, and afterwards full Evensong in Mota with a good

+deal of singing. We have many nice voices on board this time, and the

+singing is exceptionally good. Owing to the crowded state of the

+schoolroom, service is held in the saloon, which is inconveniently small

+for the large number who attend. The girls who hitherto have been

+prevented from attending, by reason of sea-sickness, this evening put in

+a very fairly large appearance. Most Melanesian ladies are bad sailors,

+and some never get over the inconveniences of the uncongenial sea

+element.

+

+

+_Tuesday, 13th July._--The weather this morning was somewhat finer, but

+still a good deal unsettled. We have failed as yet to get hold of the

+S.E. Trades, but are living in hopes that a favourable breeze will soon

+waft us onward to our destination. The great excitement this morning was

+the smoke of a steamer, which at first we wildly imagined must be the

+vessel expected from Sydney to meet us at Norfolk Island, giving us

+chase. However, wiser heads, by the direction of the ship’s head and the

+course of the smoke, made it out to be the _Rockton_ or some steamer

+from Fiji towards New Caledonia. Whatever ship it may have been, the

+excitement all ended in smoke. Beyond this, we have had nothing stirring

+all day. The moon at night dispersed the clouds, and the concertina

+forward enlivened the monotony of the evening. And so has passed another

+day, leaving little record of any work done.

+

+

+_Wednesday, 14th July._--We were to-day somewhere in the neighbourhood

+of Walpole Island, a flat, uninhabited island lying by itself in mid

+ocean, on which myriads of sea birds have their dwelling, and lay their

+eggs and hatch their young. The weather was somewhat hazy, so we got no

+sight of the sun although the Captain was anxious to do so, not having

+been able to see that orb either to-day or yesterday. The ‘dead

+reckoning’ alone showed him our probable whereabouts, but he was not

+able to get any definite position laid down. Shoals of fish were seen

+about the ship to-day, and the boys perched on the bowsprit end

+succeeded in cleverly catching two fine skipjacks, one of which we had

+cooked for dinner, and which was pronounced as very good eating. No bait

+is required for these fish, a line, rod, and hook to which a piece of

+red rag is attached, are requisite, and the motion of the vessel makes

+the tempting object skip along the surface of the water, to which the

+fish rises and swallows hook and all. They are large fish, and

+peculiarly strong, especially with their tails. At times they breach out

+of the water to a great height, the motive power being seated in their

+tails. One of the boys unadvisedly took hold of one of those caught

+to-day too near the tail, and the fish lashing out struck him on the

+forefinger, and at first I fancied had sprained it, for the whole hand

+swelled, and he was in considerable pain for some time. This evening it

+was very quiet and pleasant, and the moon added to the pleasantness of

+the occasion. It is wonderful to mark how the days lengthen as we go

+further North, and how the weather grows warmer. Soon we shall dispense

+with waistcoats, and bye and bye coats will likewise go, except at meals

+and at prayers. We saw nothing of Walpole Island, and the Captain got no

+sight of the sun again to-day.

+

+

+_Thursday, 15th July._--This morning we were well up with Anaiteum, the

+first of the New Hebrides group, and belonging to the Presbyterians who

+have been established there a great number of years. Soon after Tanna

+appeared in view, and later on in the day Eromango. We could not see the

+volcano at Tanna, so that we cannot speak of its activity or otherwise.

+We passed close under Eromango, and for some time the water was quite

+smooth. We had a most beautiful wind all day, the real S.E. Trades, and

+we were enabled to make good progress towards our first place of call.

+Everyone on board seems to have sprung into life with the sight of land,

+and no doubt many see in the islands we are passing the anticipation of

+their own homes. Most of our passengers are from the New Hebrides and

+Banks’ groups, of which these three islands are the commencement. It was

+most beautiful all day and the evening especially enjoyable; the Captain

+wisely remarked that if it were always so fine, there would be too many

+sailors, or at least persons who would want to go to sea. Melanesian

+islands are disappointing as viewed at a distance from the sea, for they

+are like any other place, but the great beauty of them is seen on nearer

+inspection and ashore. These three islands and the Loyalty group are not

+so thickly wooded as some farther North.

+

+

+_Friday, July 16th._--Strong S.E. Trades, and we moved along rapidly all

+day, doing over two hundred miles. We found ourselves in the evening

+running through the passage between Ambrym and Pentecost at the South

+end of which we expected to find Mr. Brittain, who had been left there

+when the ship went back to Norfolk Island. We stood quite close into

+the place, but receiving no manner of response from the shore we began

+to suspect that after all the bird had flown. The vessel stood off and

+on all the night, and it certainly was more comfortable than usually is

+the case under the like circumstances. The vessel rode very quietly all

+night, and on

+

+

+_Saturday, July 17th._--We were early off our place of call, and seeing

+no signs ashore the boat was lowered and I took the steer oar in a

+furious wind and a heavy sea. The approach to and departure from this

+place were as nasty as could be, and I was not sorry to be on board all

+right again. Mr. Brittain had left some time before, and our visit was

+futile except that we brought off his things. The people were quiet and

+well behaved, and Tom (the teacher) was in great form. Tom, having been

+educated in Sydney, speaks remarkably good English and is evidently held

+in respect by his people. Their dress and appearance are very like their

+neighbours of Ambrym, and the women wear the flaxen petticoat also like

+the Ambrymese. Their language, too, I believe, is akin, the distance

+separating the two islands not being more than five or six miles. Tom is

+building a very nice school, and there seems a large population. A big,

+chiefly looking man was sitting on the beach as we were coming away, and

+Tom told me that he was the chief of the place. I had brought nothing

+with me from the ship, and the boys had nothing, so the best I could do

+for the great man was to give him a tin of sardines which I got out of

+one of Mr. Brittain’s boxes. I dare say he would have preferred tobacco,

+but he seemed as satisfied as natives usually appear to be, for they are

+not generally very demonstrative or profuse in their thanks. The tide

+was falling fast so we had to beat a hasty retreat and got off with some

+considerable difficulty.

+

+Poor Tom must find life at home somewhat of a change to the ‘easy life’

+he enjoyed in Sydney. I believe he was very much scandalized when he

+first got home at the outrageously indecent dress of his countrymen. He

+himself still dons the Sydney costume, but minus boots. Poor boy! I dare

+say he dreamed in Sydney of the reforms he would endeavour to effect

+when he got home, but the stern difficulties in the way he now begins to

+realize. Oh! Missionary work seems easy enough when viewed from an arm

+chair at a distance of many thousand miles, the difficulties only become

+apparent when the man is brought into close connection with his work,

+and has to grapple in a stubborn, persistant hand to hand fight with the

+Evil one. Poor Tom! I suppose he will try a little at first to stem the

+tide, and failing in that, will drift along with the stream. To a poor

+youth like that the difficulties of his position must seem stupendous

+and insurmountable. Nothing but the grace of God is sufficient for such.

+I dare say ere now his bright vistas and day dreams are being only too

+rudely dispelled, for he will have to find out like all other

+Missionaries that Christians are not made by machinery, or believers

+made such in a day; it is a long and weary process, but labour is not in

+vain in the Lord. Once more on board, the boat was hauled up, and on we

+started for the North end of the island where now we hoped to find Mr.

+Brittain. We saw a Labour vessel at anchor along the coast, and got to

+our own anchorage about 4 p.m. Mr. Brittain came off in his boat very

+sick, and with some difficulty got on board. He has been ill three weeks

+and was very anxious for the return of the vessel. During the evening he

+brightened up a good deal and I dare say felt much better for the

+society of his white brethren. He gave a very sad account of the state

+of things ashore, great sickness and considerable mortality. We had a

+very quiet night at anchor, and determined to stay here till Monday. We

+had some boys to land, and the boats were going forth and back all the

+evening. The clatter alongside was fearful owing to the large number of

+canoes that put off to the ship and every occupant speaking at the same

+time. They used to be a very noisy crowd, but have much improved of late

+years. It was a most glorious night at anchor and not excessively hot.

+We consider that we have done very well to be here so soon with the bad

+start from Norfolk Island. How the boys and girls did enjoy the fruits

+of their own islands again, especially green cocoanuts and soft sugar

+cane! And how pleasing was it too, as well as entertaining, as the

+shades of evening closed in, to watch the coy and shy flirtations of the

+young married couples on board; one or two were quite oldfashioned at

+the process, but Charles and Monica especially were somewhat more

+bashful. The young bridegrooms were most attentive to their respective

+spouses on the voyage but necessarily lived apart. The boys and men all

+live together in the schoolroom, and the girls and married women aft.

+There are as yet no married people’s apartments, we shall look for those

+when we get a bigger ship.

+

+

+_Sunday, 18th July._--Quiet and peaceful day at Araga. The natives

+regarded the observance of Sunday so strictly that they troubled us very

+little with their noisy chatter, indeed very few canoes came off at all

+to the ship, and we were able to have an uninterrupted day of rest. Our

+services began at 10 a.m. with English Prayers. We chanted the Venite,

+read the Te Deum, and sang the Jubilate besides singing the Glorias in

+the Psalms, and two hymns. We had therefore full Mattins with a short

+address to which the men paid very good attention. I tried to make the

+discourse as easy and lively as possible, and interspersed a few

+anecdotes among my remarks, which I think, being appropriate, were

+appreciated. The service lasted just three quarters of an hour so that

+the men were not wearied. It was not a very hot day, but beautifully

+bright and glorious. Shorewards it looked most lovely, the bright

+sunshine lighting up the vegetation with a silver sheen, everything

+seeming to catch the infection from the King of Day, who rejoiced as a

+giant to run his course. On board a gentle breeze cooled the air, and

+under the awning and down below alike it was bearably comfortable and

+refreshing.

+

+At 11 o’clock we had service in Mota, at which we had the attendance of

+all the Melanesians of both sexes in the ship, and a very hearty,

+cheering service it was. I reserved my address to them for the evening

+and before noon our religious duties for the morning were over. We dined

+at 1 o’clock and in the afternoon Mr. Turnbull and myself went ashore.

+This was his first experience in these islands and he was duly impressed

+with the natural beauty everywhere apparent, and the good nature of the

+people. It was nearly high water when we went in over the reef, and the

+clearness of the sea, the beauty of the coral bed, the dear little blue

+and vari-coloured fish which flitted about produced their due effect on

+him. The white beach, too, with its background of most luxuriant green

+rising from the base and clothing in marvellous profusion the tops of

+the hills greatly delighted him. The climb up the hill somewhat

+dispelled the fancy, but one could well imagine oneself in some

+semi-fairy land so strangely beautiful as it all looked. We were in a

+very liquid state when we reached the school about three quarters of a

+mile up the hill, and green cocoanuts were very acceptable. Here we

+found in the midst of all the loveliness a poor little child dying amid

+squalor and destitution. The poor young mother was sitting over it and

+crying her heart out. Her son had been buried the day before and there

+seemed not a particle of hope for the elder sister. I said what I could

+to comfort the mother, but it was too late to do anything for the child.

+The father with a third child was walking up and down disconsolately

+outside. The sight had its effect on me, for the father bears the

+honoured name of my great friend Bishop Key of Kaffraria, the mother

+bears my wife’s name, and the little dying one the name of my own

+daughter, the boy too who died the day before was called “Bailey” a

+cognomen revered by all Augustinians as the name of its late Warden.

+

+Poor things! May God give them all the comfort of His grace, the only

+balm for a troubled and afflicted soul.

+

+We walked about the village for a time and everything being utterly new

+and strange to Mr. Turnbull he was very much charmed. We visited old

+Sarawia who was once, and I dare say now is, the chief man in the place.

+He still looks much the same as ever but professed himself to be failing

+in health, and suffering from a sort of paralysis in his left leg. It

+does not seem however as if he intended to die just yet for he has

+lately taken two or three additional wives. We also saw the great wind

+and rain maker, but he said he had given up the trade now, and came to

+school regularly. Formerly he used to derive a good income from it I

+believe.

+

+The houses and gamals (men’s quarters) here are most squalid and

+wretched, but the people seem content, and don’t trouble themselves much

+about their habitations, but what they shall eat or drink is a prominent

+consideration in all their minds. Their great treasures here are pigs

+and mats, and a man’s wealth and standing is measured by his possession

+in these. After proceeding through various grades if a man can kill one

+hundred pigs at a feast he is looked upon as a man of importance and his

+name is handed down to posterity as a great man, and I believe by that

+means his fare is prepaid to the realms of the Blest. The reverse I

+believe obtains with those who possess no treasures and kill no pigs.

+Everyone therefore in the interval between his advent into this world

+and his departure from it, endeavours to slaughter according to custom

+one pig or more, or the consequences will be terrible if not here at

+least hereafter.

+

+This is a cheap way at all events of purchasing blessedness and no

+wonder they are eager with the small price for it. A fighting man

+formerly was looked upon as having more claim to their Walhalla than a

+man who refused or who had failed to take blood. This title certainly of

+late years has not been so eagerly coveted, and so far it is,

+thankworthy, but “when the wicked man turneth away from his wickedness

+and doeth that which is lawful and right he shall save his soul alive,”

+this last clause as yet is omitted from their programme.

+

+On our way back I could not refrain from paying another visit to the

+dying child. There still sat the faithful mother, and there still lay

+her pretty child, life was not yet extinct, and she had turned since I

+saw her before. I determined when I got off to the ship to try and get

+some medicine as a sort of dernier resort. I doubt if medicine will ever

+more do any good. We got off to the ship before 5 p.m., and at that hour

+had tea, bread and sardines, and cake which the cook had concocted. The

+“Cabinetto” was going most of the evening, Brown having thoughtfully

+brought some sacred sheets for Sundays. At 7 p.m. we had Evensong in

+English and afterwards in Mota with an address on the Gospel, “Be ye

+therefore merciful,” “not only were we to ask mercy for ourselves I

+said, but we too must extend it to others, and we should find plenty of

+opportunity of doing so, in the places to which we were going. If we

+only felt for a moment the mercy of God towards us as revealed in Christ

+Jesus, we must be merciful to our fellows, and we must show them the

+same mercy we had experienced and known in our Saviour’s dealings with

+our own souls.”

+

+We had great singing afterwards, which they always enjoy. It was most

+resplendent on deck afterwards, and one was thankful for the quiet and

+refreshment throughout of the day of rest.

+

+

+_Monday, 19th July._--Mr. Brittain well enough this morning to go ashore

+to collect his things and make arrangements with his teachers. It is his

+intention if health permits to stay ashore in Mr. Palmer’s district at

+Mota and the Banks’ Islands, but in his present condition such a step

+would scarcely be wise. However, time will tell. While he was ashore Mr.

+Huggett, the mate, always ready to lend a helping hand, and myself put

+the teacher’s things together, and when he came off Mr. Brittain had

+nothing to do but give them out according as they had been deserved.

+Meanwhile there were crowds of people round about the ship, and much

+trading was carried on by the boys and girls on board. They use here

+canoes with outriggers, and the larger ones are very clumsy, unwieldy

+monsters. The Captain hates the sight of them alongside for they rub the

+paint off the ship, and sometimes even damage the copper. In the Solomon

+Islands they have no outriggers, and the natives are much more expert in

+the management of their canoes, both large and small.

+

+Here at Araga they have a very large number of canoes, but they are very

+bad.

+

+We weighed anchor at noon and stood across to Opa and were at anchor at

+Tavolavola by about 3.30 p.m.; a very nice breeze took us across, and

+on arrival there we made preparations for going ashore at once. I found

+matters satisfactory ashore, and the school in full swing, the young

+teachers all neatly and nicely dressed.

+

+They were glad to have Charles back again and the women walked off with

+his pretty wife, dressed in all her bit of best. She had done a good

+deal of weeping between the ship and shore, evidently being very

+reluctant to leave her friends on board. Her eyes therefore were

+slightly tear bedyed, and her cheeks also, before she got ashore. The

+school looked cared for, and I was pleased to see a very nice new house

+built for me. The people were very glad to have me back and received me

+in their usually cordial fashion. An English Trader had built a house,

+and had resided some months near the village, but had lately taken his

+departure, why I know not, but I believe there was not trade enough.

+

+There are a number of white men now trading all over the island, the

+mystery is how they can make it pay. Monica was very tearful again when

+I bid her good-bye, poor girl I dare say she will have a hard struggle

+at first among her own country women, but I trust she may have strength

+given her to resist the wiles of the Evil one and his agents among them.

+She is a pretty, flighty girl, but much improved of late, and became a

+great favourite on board. She has a most estimable husband and I hope

+she will make him a good helpmeet.

+

+We passed a very pleasant night at the snug anchorage and all the boys

+came off to the ship next morning.

+

+

+_Tuesday, 20th July._--We weighed anchor and dropped down to Lobaha,

+about four miles along the coast to the Westward. Here we found Herbert

+Arudale well. He came off to the ship with his wife Mary who was not

+well. They seem to live much happier now, and both were beaming over

+with smiles. He gives but a poor account of his work, which is much in

+_statu quo_. The fact is his field is very limited if he must confine

+himself to his own people, and it never suggests itself to a Melanesian

+to go farther a-field. The mountain must come to Mahomet, for Mahomet

+never dreams of going to the mountain. However, now with Didi and his

+wife, a most exemplary pair, and seemingly very devoted, they ought to

+make a fresh start. Baitagaro I saw ashore and he seems to have

+improved, but it must be heart breaking work to labour on year after

+year, and get little or no attention to what you say, no appreciation of

+the message you bring, and no interest taken in all you endeavour to

+do. However, it is what the Man of Sorrows passed through, and it is

+what His true followers have to experience also.

+

+Here we almost filled the ship with fruit, especially a kind ardently

+longed for by the Norfolk Islanders, which they call the Vee apple, but

+which the Opa people term “Uhi.” Some very sweet oranges too were

+offered for sale, and the ship looked like a fruit market.

+

+We hoisted our anchor before noon and stood across to Maewo where we

+anchored in the evening. No one being down on the beach, I started off

+Arthur Huqe and Duwu to Tanrig to tell the people to come down in the

+morning.

+

+The village is three or four miles from the watering place and except

+the ship is there, the Tanrigese seldom come down to this beach, the sea

+being nearer on the other side of the island. Mr. Turnbull and I with

+some of the boys went in and had a most delicious bath, after so many

+days privation all the nicer. The river we found very full and the rush

+very great, but the water was most beautifully cool and refreshing. This

+now is the chief and best watering place in the islands, and the water

+itself is most excellent. Late in the evening a boy arrived who had

+rowed a long distance in his canoe, and he gave us the news, which was

+good on the whole. He told me again the tragic story enacted at [¨N]adui,

+a village not far from the watering place. One Vulatewa was a reputed

+disease-maker, and he resided there. Lately there had been a great

+mortality at Maewo, and especially among the still heathen people of

+Tanrowo, a coastal district bordering on [¨N]adui. The great man,

+Melkalano’s son died and his brother and many others, and Vulatewa

+insisted that he had made the sickness, and would kill many more except

+he were propitiated. However, propitiation by the gift of pigs or money

+was not in Melkalano’s line, and collecting his followers he made a raid

+on poor Vulatewa and killed him and two others, cutting them into small

+pieces, and leaving them as they were killed.

+

+They then drove out the other inhabitants, or rather fear had already

+lent them wings for flight, and destroyed the village. The poor people

+left everything they possessed behind, and took refuge in all directions

+among their friends. The people at the next village, where there was a

+flourishing school, took fright also, and cleared out of their homes

+leaving a fine handsome school-house and a new church almost finished.

+The boy added that as soon as Vulatewa was dead the sickness was stayed.

+We did no watering this evening as the tide did not suit. After a very

+quiet night at anchor on

+

+

+_Wednesday, 21st July._--We started watering ship. This is a busy

+process and keeps everyone on board well employed. Two large canvas

+tanks are fitted into each boat, and fastened underneath the thwarts.

+Into these the water is poured from buckets until both are full, a

+suction pump and hose on board empties these canvas tanks into iron

+receptacles under the floor of the schoolroom, and one boatload fills

+about a tank and a half. Seven or eight loads of water therefore

+finished the watering to-day. When everything was finished, the boys and

+girls went ashore to wash their clothes and bathe, and this day here is

+always looked forward to. The people came down from Tanrig in the

+morning, and I was busy packing up my things. After lunch I went ashore

+and started away the bearers with my belongings. How they managed to

+carry all the heavy boxes and a big harmonium up the hill and on for

+three or four miles, I don’t know, but they did it, and did not think

+much of it. I went on board again, and thanks to the Captain’s kindness,

+I got the loan of one of the ship’s boats, my own having been stolen by

+a labour ship last year. After an early dinner, escorted by Arthur, &c.,

+I left for Tanrig. It was just getting dusk when I arrived, and I had no

+time to put anything straight. We had Evensong, and after that I

+prepared for bed. The mosquitos were somewhat numerous, but it was too

+late to get out my net, and so I put up with their music, and soon was

+oblivious of their singing or teasing. It seems quite natural to be here

+again, and as is usual the place has not changed at all. The boys

+however, have built me a beautiful new house, and I shall live in great

+comfort. I miss several faces too from the congregation, whom death has

+removed.

+

+

+_Thursday, 22nd July._--I left the _Southern Cross_ last night expecting

+to get away early this morning, which I suppose she did. However I am so

+far away from the sea, that I have no means of knowing what she did.

+Naturally too, I was very busy this first day ashore. The first business

+after Morning Prayer, was to start off Samuel and the Tasmouri

+contingent who had spent the night here. They had a good many things to

+receive, but they got away in time to reach home before night. There

+were numbers of other things to be done also, such as putting the new

+window in the Church, unpacking the harmonium, making a platform for it,

+&c. The old mode of life seems to come back wonderfully naturally to me.

+Breakfast of rice, with sugar and cocoanut milk, and afterwards a cup

+of delicious Norfolk Island coffee, for which delicacy I am indebted to

+my kind friends Mr. and Mrs. Fletcher Nobbs. My midday meal is a bit of

+biscuit or roasted yam, and I reserve myself for the great meal of the

+day in the evening, not sumptuous but amply sufficient, fried rasher of

+bacon, fried taro pancake, and most excellent potatoes, for which I am

+indebted to Mr. Alfred Nobbs at Norfolk Island. After this I have a cup

+of milkless tea, which I brew in that charming teapot sent me from China

+by Dr. Codrington. They say ‘enough is as good as a feast,’ and I

+suppose this is why I am perfectly satisfied with this rough meal. After

+dinner I have nothing again till next morning.

+

+

+_Friday, 23rd July._--A most superb morning, and the place looks very

+charming early in the day and in the evening, at midday there is a

+strong glare and it is almost too dazzling. The church looks most

+picturesque and pretty, nestling in a perfect forest of bright coloured

+shrubs, among which are many European representatives, _e.g._ the

+Poinsettia, the Geranium, Marvel of Peru, and others imported from

+Norfolk Island. Arthur certainly has expended great pains and taste in

+the plantation, and it amply rewards him. Outside the stone fence is an

+orange grove, the dark green of which stands out in bold relief against

+the bright colours within. The church is still in a good state of

+preservation and will last for some time yet. It is getting

+inconveniently small however, and will soon want enlarging. It bears

+evident signs of being made good use of, and they tell me the

+congregation morning and evening is never short of 50 or 60. In a very

+short time I hope this will be a purely Christian village, and that not

+only in name, but in deed and in truth. I see considerable change here

+since I left in the number of the new houses, and the care of the town,

+for such it now has a right to be called. Before long the Church will be

+the centre of a number of private residences, and the people begin to

+build better houses. Arthur has constructed his like mine with high

+walls caned all round, and made it very comfortable.

+

+Except the ground floor my house is quite as nice as a one roomed

+boarded house. The school and church are almost contiguous, and both are

+strong, substantial buildings. There are at present 80 names of scholars

+on the books, and these are regular attendants. I hope before I leave,

+please God, to see that number augmented. At present we are strong in

+teachers, with the two Arthurs, Patrick, Harry, Duwu, Tilegi, Kate and

+Agnes. This morning after service, a shortened form of Mattins with a

+hymn, we had school, and I hope progress has been made. I was pleased to

+hear the teachers questioning their classes on the subject about which

+they had been reading. The perseverance of the old men in puzzling out

+the dreary sheets is perfectly astonishing, but they will not be denied.

+They have, however, learnt much by heart, e.g. Lord’s Prayer, Creed, Te

+Deum, &c. The women are quite as persevering, if not more so, and I

+don’t like to damp their ardour by forbidding them to try and learn to

+read. The first class of girls are far away ahead of the boys, and know

+a very great deal. These same girls used to sing very nicely, but they

+have got into the most disagreeable drawl, and so far from following a

+leader, they take the bit between their teeth, and sing as fancy

+dictates. This I shall try and remedy before I leave again. We have now

+a harmonium for our services, thanks to the very great kindness of my

+friend and benefactress in England, Miss Mount, who is far more

+beneficent than I at all deserve. The two Arthurs play very fairly well,

+but Arthur Huqe is organist at present. After school I had visitors from

+Golvanua, a populous district some ten or twelve miles from here. They

+are very peculiar people and very wild, I am sorry to say I have only

+been there once, and that only a flying visit. I told them I was coming

+again soon, and they seemed pleased. I gave the head man some tobacco,

+and he said when I came to their place he would give me food and take

+care of me. Our people here are rather terrified of them, and the

+distance is so great that very few have ever been there. There were two

+nice little boys with them, and I asked them if they were not tired, but

+they scouted the idea.

+

+I was so busy all day that I did not get away from home, and things

+begin to be a bit more ship-shape. I begin to feel very comfortable in

+my new house, but I dare say if my friends saw me, they would fancy it

+was far from comfort. However, I have a continual feast in a contented

+mind. In the evening, instead of school, we had singing, into which I

+endeavoured to infuse some life and harmony, and partially succeeded,

+but not to my taste quite yet. Then in the evening I held a teacher’s

+class, and we had much profitable conversation.

+

+

+_Saturday, 24th July._--This is observed by us as a whole holiday, and

+after Morning Prayer nothing is required of the school till the evening

+service. Arthur Aruduliwar decided to have his house thatched to-day,

+and a large party assembled to help him. Here they do everything by

+means of ‘Bees,’ (working parties). ‘Bees’ dig the gardens, plant the

+crops, dig the food, build the houses. The women do the cooking, and the

+owner of the house makes the feast, this is all he has to do, he is not

+supposed himself to do any work. Next week they are going to thatch a

+gamal, more stupendous work, and a great many people are going to be

+engaged, and there is to be much feasting, and I believe a dance.

+Marvellous harmony prevails in this community at present, and I never

+hear a harsh expression, nor witness a passionate action. They are the

+merriest, happiest, most contented people I ever saw, and I think the

+best natured. A party from Tasmouri appeared during the morning, and

+Thomas Aruloli among them. I asked him to stay the night, but he replied

+that it was his Sunday at Tasmate to-morrow, and he would not like to

+miss. I was pleased at this, for it showed the boy’s conscientiousness

+with respect to his self-imposed duty. I gave him his goods, and he and

+the others started again soon after for home. These natives don’t seem

+to know what fatigue is, and this double journey, which I should be

+sorry to undertake, they make nothing of it. After a frugal lunch the

+boys and I went to Ruos, where we bathed and washed our clothes. The

+river is certainly a boon and a blessing, and a good bathe has a most

+invigorating effect on one. In the evening the teachers came in and sat

+a long time with me, and we had much suitable conversation. While they

+were sitting here, a sound, which I had heard all day and couldn’t find

+the reason of, kept going on continually, and I asked Arthur what it

+was. He told me it was a bamboo placed high up on a top branch of a

+banyan tree in front of my house, in which notches were cut below each

+joint, and when the wind blew strong it sounded in the bamboo with the

+same effect that would be produced by so many persons blowing at once

+into the several orifices. This seemed to me very ingenious, but Arthur

+Huqe tells me they have the same practice at Opa. They say when the wind

+blows strong the sound is heard a great distance off, and I can quite

+imagine it.

+

+We heard this evening the reports of two big guns in the direction of

+the watering place, so it is conjectured that a vessel is at anchor

+there. However it was too late to go and see.

+

+

+_Sunday, 25th July._--First Sunday ashore at Maewo, and a very quiet and

+pleasant day it has been. I think too, it has been one of the most

+gloriously brilliant days I have ever seen. The morning was beautiful,

+the midday marvellously resplendent, and the evening indescribably

+lovely. The place did look so beautiful too. I told the people they

+ought never to cease praising God for so beautiful a heritage as He had

+given them. They have not a want or a care, but I fear they fail to

+appreciate the beauty, according to the truth of the old adage which

+speaks of familiarity breeding contempt. We had Sunday school very

+early, for two reasons more especially, (1) because it is cooler in the

+morning, (2) because we are not plagued with blowflies which appear in

+untold numbers wherever there is any congregation of people.

+

+After a short interval devoted to breakfast, we had Mattins, and after

+this a short service and an address for the teachers. We had a very few

+strangers present to-day, but all our own people turned up. We did away

+with the great midday feast to-day for the first time for many years,

+but some of the women cooked a large quantity of food which was

+distributed to the boys in the usual way. This food business had become

+too laborious, and too much the chief part of the day, so that I fancied

+a relaxation for a time would be beneficial.

+

+Patrick went to Mandurvat to take service there, but I stayed at Tanrig.

+At six different stations, school and service have been held and the day

+duly observed.

+

+Evensong was a pleasant service here, and the church looked very nice

+lit up with the new lamps. The strains of the harmonium too, gave an

+additional pathos and homeliness to the occasion. I gave an address on

+the Gospel for 5th Sunday after Trinity, which I think was understood

+and appreciated. We had much singing afterwards and the public part of

+the day ended with the Blessing. May that blessing ever rest upon us

+here and elsewhere, and may we always endeavour to do all to God’s

+glory.

+

+

+_Monday, 26th July._--I reckoned without my host last night when I

+rashly permitted Agnes and Kate to cook for me this week at their own

+request. They made a tremendous fuss about it, but the rice came to

+table uncooked, and in such a small quantity that my breakfast was

+spoilt and the coffee was anything but good. However they did their best

+and I dare say to-morrow they will do all right. They were both

+wonderfully good, and not only washed up for me but gave my premises a

+good sweep as well. Poor Agnes, she is hideously lame, but she pretends

+to the liveliness of a kitten. The fence around the school is rather

+high and I watched her endeavours to get over with her lameness and her

+petticoats. She managed better than I expected, but I stood by in

+readiness to lend her a helping hand in case she fell. She comes back

+fully impressed with a sense of her importance and dignity after so

+many years absence, and her friends made a great deal of her. To-day she

+is off with the other women on some excursion or other, and is fully

+convinced that she is as active as any of them. Before long no doubt she

+will fancy herself useful and engaging enough to be the life partner of

+Tilegi, and to be the faithful companion of his joys and sorrows. She is

+an intelligent girl, and her long training at Norfolk Island ought to

+make her useful here. She is perfectly charmed with her home, and she

+sees very plainly the beneficial results produced by Christianity. When

+she left, she herself was among the few baptized, now she comes back to

+the bosom of a Christian community with a good church and school, daily

+Morning and Evening Prayers, and perfect harmony and good will among all

+men. She will miss little at home now of what she has grown accustomed

+to at Norfolk Island, and it must be a pleasant realization to her. The

+girls, too, with whom she will have daily association are all

+Christians, and she will be spared the shock and repulsion of heathen

+women’s talk and actions. Her father has died in the interval, a truly

+godly man in his life, and a believer at the time of his death.

+

+There is no face I miss here more than that of James, a true and

+faithful friend to me, and I firmly believe, too, of our Lord and

+Saviour Jesus Christ. Arthur tells me his death was perfectly peaceful

+and happy, and he desired at the last to depart and be with Christ which

+was far better. His two children followed him, and the three lie side by

+side in the quiet and rest of the grave. A reputed mother, but one who

+is really an aunt, Amina, takes charge of Agnes until Tilegi or some one

+else claims her as a bride, for in spite of her deformity I suppose she

+will not eschew marriage herself, or be allowed to remain in single

+blessedness by her friends, for here young ladies are not over

+plentiful, and to judge by the appearance of some already married there

+is no accounting for taste among the men of the place. Elizabeth, the

+wife of James, has found solace in another partner, but she spoke of her

+former husband with a due amount of grief and tears, and said to me,

+pointing in the direction of his grave, “He lies asleep over there.”

+

+Yet there are here those who are ‘widows indeed,’ and good old Dorcas is

+one such. This old lady well deserves her name, for she is full of alms

+deeds, and kindness to all, and I firmly believe is a true follower of

+Jesus Christ. She lives alone with a little grandchild in her own hut

+and trains up dutifully the child in the way she should go. Very seldom

+is old Dorcas away from her seat in church, and she exercises a benign

+and gentle influence over her own sex in the village. Anna, another good

+old widow, has died in my absence, and the loss of such is much felt.

+Among the younger women there is a perfect colony of children, and this

+is most thankworthy as being a proof that infanticide has been quite

+stamped out, and formerly it seemed to be a sort of religious duty here.

+Children were looked upon as being uncanny as well as a nuisance, and if

+the mother did not kill her offspring herself, she found plenty of

+aiders and abettors in the old midwives who attended her. The father

+seemed utterly impotent to prevent the evil. Now the fathers have turned

+head nurses and are abundantly proud of their children.

+

+This morning after Prayers and school I walked down to the river side at

+Rarava, whither almost the entire population had preceded me, and where

+I lit upon a busy scene. It was a most resplendent day, but the

+overhanging branches of the wide spreading foliage lent a charm and

+grateful shade to the occasion. The men were engaged in digging the

+‘taro’ roots, from their irrigated beds, and the women busy washing and

+preparing them for culinary purposes. The ladies here, present no

+exception to a proverbial excess in the use of the ‘unruly member’ as

+the especially noticeable characteristic of the gentler sex in more

+favoured parts of the world, and a Babel-like clatter of tongues formed

+a striking accompaniment to the quietness and order of the work in hand.

+The taro beds of course are mud, pure and simple, and the taro when dug

+is a very dirty vegetable, it is covered over besides with long

+tenacious feelers for roots, and these are picked off with the fingers

+in the most skilled and practised manner much after the fashion of

+plucking and preparing a bird for table. When the cleaning and plucking

+process is perfected, the long stalks are collected to a head and tied

+up in convenient bundles with one of their own parts in the most

+ingenious and knowing manner. Two bundles are then arranged on one long

+pole, and carried by one bearer on the shoulder, one bundle before and

+another behind their backs. The weight is considerable, but here the

+burden is borne by the men, the women carry the broad leaves and other

+concomitants of native cookery. Beyond the cackle there was very much

+merriment which all seemed in accord with the dancing sparkling waters

+of the clear flowing river. The prospect around was most beautiful and

+although not extensive the landscape was most bewitching, and the eye

+was never tired with seeing.

+

+These natives have great natural taste, which is displayed to a far

+greater degree in the arrangement and beautifying of their yam and taro

+gardens here, than in any other island I have seen.

+

+The broad, handsome evergreen taro leaf spreads its verdure right and

+left, and all around, amid the friendship of the gay-leaved croton, the

+majestic dracæna, and the vari-coloured hibiscus, while here and there,

+to vary the prospect, the graceful cocoanut lends the beauty and

+elegance of its chastely spreading branches; all this beauty is thrown

+into relief by a back ground of the most marvellously beautiful bush,

+which shuts it in as with a natural fence, and leaves the only wish and

+feeling with the observer just to get for a moment a peep of what lies

+beyond. Breaks here and there however, in the background, revealed

+distant hills clad to their very summits with a richness and profusion

+of vegetation such as always abounds in these lovely islands where

+‘every prospect pleases.’ I could select so many subjects for pictures

+here as almost to finish up all my dry plates, my only hope is that I

+may meet with some measure of success when by and bye I try my hand at

+photography. A header into the cool waters and a swim up and down stream

+was very refreshing. The boys enlivened the scene by their merriment and

+gambolling in the water, and altogether it was an occasion of much

+delight, and not the less so to me when I considered that all these

+people, almost without exception, had passed before through the healing

+waters of Holy Baptism. As possessing so much of the element, it is

+perhaps only natural that these people should love the water, and bathe

+a great deal more than their appearance would give one reason to

+suspect. The boys, and more especially, I think, the girls, are very

+fond of the water, and never seem tired of bathing when near the

+river-side. ‘Tanrig’ is distant about two miles from the river, and this

+distance, although inconvenient for many reasons, is very convenient for

+others, and especially because of the mosquitos which abound in the

+neighbourhood. Here some times they are bad enough, but by the

+water-side they are, I believe, unbearable. I know I find them

+troublesome enough there by day, and I don’t care to experience the

+worry and misery of them by night. They are called here ‘namu,’ and are

+said to be particularly troublesome at a certain period in the growth

+and maturity of the yam.

+

+Any one who has not lived in a tropical country can have very little

+conception of the discomfort and worry of these little maddening

+tormentors. Yet there are others whose attacks produce more serious

+consequences, and an illustration was afforded this evening. “Kate

+Tevano” (Arthur’s wife) was coming across to my house, and when almost

+at my door she gave a scream of terror and retired at once back again. I

+rushed out to learn the cause, and found she had been bitten by a

+centipede in the toe. The blood was just oozing out, and there were the

+distinct marks of his two fangs. In about ten minutes she was in great

+agony, and in the course of the evening her foot swelled and the pain

+was most terrible, and she couldn’t bear anything near it. Poor child, I

+left her in floods of bitter tears before going to bed, and she expected

+to be in pain all night long. The natives have some antidote for it, and

+the women were applying that all the evening. I confess that I did not

+know myself what to do, except to bathe it with hot water. There was a

+great hunt for the venomous little reptile, but of course he had made

+himself scarce. How he got on her foot, and why he bit her, no one

+knows, but there are multitudes of the creatures here, and perhaps the

+mystery is that people are not more often bitten. They have scorpions

+too here whose bite is very venomous, but one doesn’t often hear of

+their biting. There is a very large ant here called the ‘gandee’ to

+which I have a great aversion, and its bite is very sharp. Snakes here

+are not venomous, but the people have an instinctive dread of them, but

+they do not trouble us much. There is a hideous creature which lives in

+the thatch of the houses, an ugly toad-like lizard, with large red

+prominent eyes, which has such a tenacity of grasp with its feet that it

+sometimes even sticks so tight to the person it attacks as to take away

+the very skin in its grasp. Indeed, to me there are many strange and

+uncanny creatures in these islands to which I give as wide a berth as

+possible. Even in putting on your clothes you may find that a scorpion

+or centipede have taken up their quarters, in your hat you may find

+another monster, while most likely your shoes will be the tenement of

+some hideous reptile. Use and experience cannot rid one of a shudder

+when one thinks what may be, and yet if one is always anticipating these

+evils one’s very life becomes a burden.

+

+

+_Tuesday, 27th July._--I visited poor Kate this morning as soon as I got

+up, and found her still in considerable pain and her foot a good deal

+swollen. She had slept but little during the night, and was still very

+tearful. However, her friends assured her that the poisonous effects

+would soon pass away, and it proved true, for I saw her walking, or

+rather limping about during the course of the forenoon. I was anxious to

+see a centipede this morning, and by and bye a man came bringing one

+which he held tightly by head and tail. It was a pretty creature and not

+so black as some I have seen, the legs indeed were of an orange yellow

+colour. It tried very hard to riggle away, but the ruthless boys soon

+put an end to its existence. How many legs it actually has I did not

+stop to count, but I saw its nasty fangs and preferred keeping a

+respectable distance from them.

+

+A nasty lizard such as I have before mentioned was shortly after

+discovered in the thatch of my house just over my head, and captured

+after an exciting hunt. One creeps when these creatures are brought so

+near one, and is thankful for daily protection from them.

+

+To-day has been the occasion of an important event here, viz: the

+thatching of a gamal (men’s quarters). This, indeed, is one of the

+greatest events known here, and there has been much feasting and

+festivity. The men do the thatching, and neighbours and strangers from a

+distance come to assist. There must have been quite a hundred men at

+work to-day, and it was the part and duty of the women to prepare food

+for them, and judging by the quantity spread out to-night they must have

+been kept pretty busy at work.

+

+The house was a large one, and it took most of the day to finish it. The

+roof when complete was most neat, and a perfect protection from heat and

+wet for many years to come. The thatch is made from the frond of the

+sago palm and very durable. Cocoanut fronds are sometimes used, but they

+do not make so neat a roof nor nearly so lasting.

+

+These native houses, although seemingly such poor structures, take some

+time and skill in building, and are very fair habitations when finished.

+They are rather low according to our ideas of comfort, but the natives

+grow accustomed to a crouching posture within doors, and they say the

+low roof does not catch the wind so easily, nor is the interior so cold.

+This is a consideration for people with no clothing, and I know myself

+from experience how cool it sometimes is here. Indeed, this very year I

+have never passed a night without being covered with a blanket, and even

+then I have not quite kept the cold away. A native, however, generally

+sleeps near a fire, and the interior of their houses are very snug.

+After the work was done this evening there was a great brew of kava, a

+drink made from the root of the kava plant, but here called “Malowo,”

+and highly intoxicating. There is much ceremony in connection with the

+drinking of this beverage, which as far as I have seen, if taken in fair

+moderation, produces strong inebriation, but is not an excitant, nor

+does it leave any ill effects when once the narcotic effects pass off.

+Any one who drinks is supposed to do so fasting, in order, I believe,

+that the draught may have the more effect. One or two cups are enough to

+produce intoxication, but of course men will make beasts of themselves

+in the drinking of kava, as well as of any other strong drink. Here it

+is prepared from the green root, and grated up with a rough, round coral

+stone, then squeezed into cups made of the half of a cocoanut shell,

+strained and mixed with water, after which it is ready for imbibation.

+To look at it is like soap suds, and to the taste it is like what I

+should suppose that compound resembled, with an additional admixture of

+rhubarb and magnesia, with a suspicion of strong senna or black draught.

+Indeed I think it is about the nastiest potion conceivable, and no

+wonder the drinker takes an unconscionably long time in swallowing the

+compound, and when finished would almost rather he had never drunk it. I

+was very glad to see most of our own people at school and prayers, but I

+believe some have reserved the ‘nightcap’ till nearer bed-time. When the

+drowsiness is over I believe a craving for food results, and then the

+appetite is appeased even if it be in the middle of the night.

+Certainly, however, a man is never quarrelsome over his cups, but a

+drowsiness and torpor creep over the most quarrelsome and irrepressive

+after the draught. The mode of preparation similar to that practised

+here obtains in all the Northern New Hebrides, as far as I know, but at

+Mota and the Banks’ Islands generally, and in Fiji it is prepared by a

+process of mastication, and is not nearly so intoxicating in its

+effects. At Santa Cruz and in the Solomon Islands the use of the kava is

+unknown, but instead they chew the betel nut.

+

+I had the old men for school to-night, and very interesting it was, old

+blind Sulu (Daniel) was among the number and paid the greatest

+attention, assenting in a marked fashion when anything especially

+pleased him. Poor fellow, he finds wonderful comfort in his religion,

+and is a most regular attendant at all services and at school. He gets

+about wonderfully in spite of his blindness, and does wonderful things

+for a man so totally blind. His patience and cheerfulness under his

+affliction are marvellous, and he seems to live in hopeful anticipation

+of the time when he shall see his Lord and Master face to face, Whom now

+he sees with the inward eyes of his spirit. He is the only blind man

+here, and I have never seen but one dumb man in these islands.

+

+

+_Wednesday, 28th July._--Our people had a great dance last night after

+school which they kept up with great spirit and vigour until an early

+hour this morning. The occasion was the thatching of the new gamal, and

+a great many took part, and never once intermitted their vigour from the

+start to the finish. The dance is called a “Sagoro,” but the chief part

+of it consists of singing with a clapping of hands and peculiar dancing

+in time. It is no easy work, and when I went to see them about the

+middle of the performance the perspiration was running down their

+bodies. Some of the songs are very pretty, but the movement of the dance

+is not particularly graceful or elegant. The women stand in a ring

+outside, and what is called “weluwelu.” This ‘weluing’ consists in

+keeping the feet close together and moving the knees from right to left

+besides joining in the chorus. Their shrill voices sound quite weird

+along with the deep tones of the males, but by no means discordant.

+Native songs have mostly an air sung by one voice, and a chorus joined

+in by all, and these Maewoese are noted for their songs. I did not

+attempt to go to sleep before the performance was over, and the

+consequence was a slight dilatoriness this morning, which as might be

+expected, was not only manifest in my case. However, after morning

+duties here I started with Arthur Huqe and Patrick for Mandurvat,

+passing through the pretty snug little village of Naruru on the way.

+Here we found a man by name ‘Tamaragai’ sitting with his pretty wife and

+child in the neat enclosure in front of his house. All the other

+denizens of the village according to the invariable custom which

+prevails here, had scattered to the four winds. After the dew is off the

+bushes here there is a general exodus from all the villages, and at noon

+it is useless to look for any one at home, for all are abroad. They are

+very industrious people and find perpetual occupation in their gardens

+or elsewhere from morning till evening. They say if they stay at home

+they do nothing but sleep, and a native has not many resources for

+occupying his time indoors. They have a great dread of the dew, for they

+say it engenders elephantiasis. Cases of this unpleasant disease are

+very prevalent here, and it looks very odd to see men and women with

+great swollen legs and feet and monster hands and arms. However, those

+afflicted with it do not seem to suffer so much pain as discomfort.

+

+We reached our destination after a somewhat weary walk on account of the

+dampness of the roads after the heavy rain in the night. I found a nice

+new school, and the teachers awaiting my arrival. The population is

+small, but the people are well-intentioned and anxious for instruction

+as exhibited by their having built the school entirely themselves. The

+leading spirit there and his wife came to-day and asked for Baptism, and

+desired that they should at once be put under instruction for that

+sacred Rite. This was cheering, and I hope the example thus set will be

+largely followed. Food according to native custom had been prepared, and

+green cocoanuts, and we spent some considerable time with the kind

+hearted people. They have only an inferior teacher, but he is very

+zealous to do his best according to the amount of wisdom and knowledge

+he possesses. They have some sort of daily service and school, but it

+must of necessity be very elementary.

+

+It is etiquette here for the host or someone appointed by him to see you

+off the premises, and this afternoon we were escorted some distance from

+the village by most of the male population, and when at what was looked

+upon as a respectable distance they stepped to one side, a sign that

+that was the last we should have of their society, and calling my name

+the host said, “Iya, go sage,” which is perhaps equal to “There, you go

+up,” to which I was supposed to respond calling his name, “Io, go toga,”

+“All right, you stop.” We then started for home. Arriving at Na Ruru the

+major part of the population were awaiting us, and Anthony the teacher

+with them, fear has driven him and his little flock to take refuge here,

+the third exodus they have made from their homes, and it is hoped that

+at last they will be safe from the ruthless incursions of the heathen

+bushmen. Poor fellow, he had begun to build a substantial new church,

+which was left with the other houses in their precipitate flight, but

+nothing daunted he has begun a third time to collect materials for

+another building. Had they continued however where they were, I doubt if

+they would have been molested. The only excuse for so doing would have

+been that they were friends of the villagers attacked by the bushmen. We

+sat for some time in conversation with the friendly people until the

+sinking sun warned us to be up and moving homewards. After prayers and

+singing, which we always have by an unvariable custom instead of school

+on Wednesday evenings, I received a request from some heathen strangers,

+twenty in number, that they might dance before me. I assented, and now

+at a late hour they are still at it, and going ahead with such vigour

+that I do not like to stop them. This dance is a piece of policy, for I

+am supposed to give them a handsome gratuity at the end, and the request

+to-night has been for tobacco. I am supposed also to be very liberal on

+these occasions, and certainly they have earned their wages. Their dance

+is very like that of the Tanrig people, but of course the songs are

+somewhat different, and to my taste not so pleasing. It is certainly

+curious that people living really in such close proximity should speak a

+dialect so utterly different that I can scarcely understand a word they

+say. I always assent to their dancing for it brings them here in large

+numbers, and for no ulterior purposes, and I like in every way to

+cultivate all friendly feeling between ourselves and our neighbours.

+Their powers of endurance are wonderful, there were many small boys

+among the dancers to-night, and the hands of my watch pointed to nearly

+2 o’clock a.m. before they finished, and previously they must have

+walked some twelve or fifteen miles over very rugged country. It must be

+considered too that these dances are performed without any intermission,

+and carried through with great vigour to the very end. I believe they

+had contemplated going on till morning, but that would be too terrible.

+Now as I write this they are gone, and the place is as quiet as if I

+were alone the sole inhabitant. I am now quite ready for bed and have

+really been so for hours, but the din and noise would render sleep an

+impossibility. God grant that in time these heathen songs may be changed

+for Christian hymns.

+

+

+_Thursday, 29th July._--My house has been thronged all day with heathen

+visitors, and I have tried to say something about our blessed religion.

+I hope they were duly impressed. They certainly gave me a warm

+invitation to visit them which I shall not be backward to accept, and

+moreover they promised to pick me out two or three boys to go to Norfolk

+Island. One man was most anxious to visit Norfolk Island, and I promised

+him that if he were so minded when the ship came back his wish should be

+gratified. I dare say I was quite safe in my promise, for no doubt he

+will cry off at the last. However, I hope I may get the boys. Everything

+was a matter of astonishment to these poor people, who have rarely if

+ever seen a white man, and a trumpet and pop gun which I gave a small

+boy produced the most unbounded delight. I wish my good friend

+Archdeacon Stock and Miss Kreeft had been here to see what unfeigned joy

+their kind gifts produced. A prettily dressed doll I brought with me,

+and which came too, I think, from Wellington, has been the seven day

+wonder during my visit. Yesterday one of the boys threw it down by

+accident, and the frail waxwork fell to pieces. There has been more

+lament over that lifeless toy than over half a dozen ordinary female

+human beings. Agnes, however, this morning disgorged a beautiful doll of

+her own, which she got from a Christmas tree, carefully wrapped in ample

+folds of calico, and the Bushmen I think will never lose the impression

+the revelation of its beauty produced upon them.

+

+How true it is that little things please little minds, and what a boon

+it is that the adage is so true. To us, whom civilization and the

+natural fitness of things have raised so far above nature, it is a

+matter of a striking character to see these heathens on their travels.

+They are burdened with absolutely nothing except a club or bow and

+arrows in their hands. Their dress is but a slight remove from the

+original fig leaf of the garden of Eden, and they carry neither bedding

+nor food. They sleep anywhere and eat what they can get. Their endurance

+in the matter of food too is extraordinary, whether they eat or whether

+they eat not does not seem to affect them, and in this way they beat us

+all to fits on the march. These Bushmen tell me they prefer making a

+journey in rain for it is cooler, and the only change of raiment they

+need at the end is to dry nature’s clothing before a fire. They are a

+very hardy race, I suppose from being inured to hardship all their

+lives.

+

+I missed poor blind Sulu from school to-day, and on enquiring for him

+was told that his pet pig, whose tusks are getting long and very sharp,

+importuned him beyond bearing, and that in kicking out to get rid of him

+the tusk ran into his foot and almost right through it. Poor old fellow,

+I am going by and bye to see what I can do to administer comfort to him.

+

+Arthur too is very much out of sorts, and could not put in an appearance

+at school to-day. For some months he has suffered from lassitude and

+weakness, and has been troubled with nasty sores. Fortunately I have a

+bottle of Hop Bitters with me, the effect of which I am going to try

+with him. Fancy the popularity of this wonderful tonic when it even

+finds its way to these distant islands! I have known it used with very

+beneficial results, and I hope Arthur may improve under its influence

+and strengthening properties.

+

+

+_Friday, July 30th._--A somewhat idle and prurient curiosity led me with

+some of our people to ‘Uta’ this morning to witness a sort of masked

+ball about which I had heard a great deal, and which was supposed to be

+something quite extraordinary. We started fairly early in the morning,

+and arrived at the place after a long, hot, and fatiguing walk. The

+ceremonies were not perfectly arranged when we got there, and we waited

+a long, weary time. It was mainly through my urging that they began when

+they did, and after all the affair was disappointing.

+

+The initial performance was a song sung by four men to an accompaniment

+beaten on bamboos, but that was by no means impressive. The females

+during this performance advanced and squatted around the performers and

+poor things were almost roasted alive under the blazing rays of the

+midday sun. When the song was finished the maskers rushed out, 17 in

+number with very curious and savage-looking head pieces, and petticoats

+of long sago palm leaves reaching almost to the ground. They presented a

+very weird and uncanny appearance certainly as they danced forth and

+back and uttered their gruff “Ugh, ugh, ugh, ugh.” I do not wonder at

+weak minded females and small children being very terrified of them. The

+head pieces were decided works of art, and very well made. Thirteen were

+almost entirely of the same make and pattern and are called “Rauwe,”

+three were again somewhat of a different shape and fashion called

+“Tamate,” and one very elongated and strangely devised mask also called

+a ‘Tamate’ completed the list. When the dancing was over which was

+called ‘Welu,’ the Rauwes rushed flying about all over the place, and

+the wiser course was to keep out of their way. In former days I believe

+they carried heavy sticks, or even clubs, and struck at anyone who

+failed to get out of their way. Boys and females were the chief objects

+of their attacks, and sometimes considerable injury resulted. Of course

+if any one retaliated and gave blow for blow, a skrimmage of perhaps

+serious and general nature resulted, and ended probably in lives being

+sacrificed.

+

+To-day these rough maskers carried clubs and long handled axes, and

+nothing was feared from them. The tamates were much more quiet and

+danced quietly about like so many kiwis (native New Zealand bird), and

+molested no one. They represent a higher grade in the social scale and

+their intentions are always pacific. For some days after the ceremony

+they are allowed to sail about the country and take what they please in

+the shape of food, &c. if it happens to come in their way, indeed I

+believe the people put it out for them and render every assistance to

+send them away full handed. The tamate mask has no eyehole, but the

+rauwe head piece has every facility for observation to facilitate its

+hilter skilter rush. The native idea of these things I believe is that

+if anyone dies who has not paid for these masks, he is haunted by them

+in the hereafter, at their places of departed spirits, “Banoi.” The

+tamates protect the disembodied spirits and conduct them safely to their

+final destination in Banoi. Moreover, I believe that those who die

+without propitiating these tamates and rauwes by gifts of pigs and mats

+are transformed into flying foxes, and adorn for ever the courts of an

+ill-fated Banoi. When the ‘welu’ was over, great cakes of cooked food

+were disgorged from their covering of leaves and distributed, the men

+behind a very curious screen called “Bugoro” distributing to men, and

+the women on one side of the village square distributing to women. The

+busy and animated scene was often disturbed by one or more of the rauwes

+rushing wildly about, and the women utterly regardless of food or

+hospitality, tore hilter skilter in screams of terror to some place of

+temporary security. It was now getting late, and as we had a journey

+before us and the performance was virtually over, except the kava

+drinking, we wished our friend good-bye and started for home, getting

+here in time for dinner, both by the time of day and by the condition of

+an appetite which had not been appeased since morning. On the whole I do

+not think the ceremony was at all worth the labour it cost to witness,

+and having seen it once, one would scarcely care to trouble about it a

+second time. However, it has its due effect upon the natives of both

+sexes, and it is looked upon by many as of paramount importance as

+regards both the present time and the future. To the newly initiated it

+gives certain social rights and privileges, but the strict observance

+with many is a thing of the past. It has only to do with the males,

+females may enjoy no special benefit from the practice except to assist

+as ornamental observers, and to bring beast burdens of food for

+distribution. What becomes of their poor souls hereafter is a matter for

+no anxiety or consideration, indeed I suppose the doubt is as to their

+possessing such things as souls at all, so that their final destination

+can only be a matter of supreme indifference and of the most

+insignificant importance. A hazy indefinite belief therefore these

+people have in some hereafter, and they endeavour to make some provision

+for it while they can, but they have no distinct form of religion, nor

+any images to which they offer worship. They have some kind of

+propitiatory sacrifice however of food and shell money, and whatever

+prayer they have is made to the spirits of their ancestors. Almost

+invariably a dying man calls to his father, and we have frequently

+noticed that when a sick person arrives at this stage of illness, his

+case is very bad indeed, if not hopeless. Yesterday as we were waiting

+at the entrance to the village, the people called my attention to a

+peculiar kind of red grass which had been chewed up, and the refuse

+strewn about all over the path, and they told me that this was done by

+the master of ceremonies to make the visitors take delight and interest

+in the festivities, and to raise the wish in the minds of the

+uninitiated to swell the ranks of those who had already taken the

+initiatory steps in social rank. Like all natives of course these people

+are utterly superstitious, and any little thing of a slightly

+extraordinary nature serves to determine or deter their mode of action.

+There is a certain class of persons among them who read these signs and

+comment upon them, just as the ancient oracles, and these persons are

+consulted in every matter of public or private interest. No one takes a

+journey or engages in any matter without recourse to this oracle, but as

+of old in case of failure, the matter is explained ambiguously.

+Superstition indeed creeps into almost every concern of daily life, and

+its effect upon one would be very wearying and irritating, except of

+course that superior mindedness ought to condescend and bear with such

+human frailties when one considers the education under which these poor

+folks have been brought up from generation to generation. Much, I think,

+of this weak mindedness is passing away under Christian regime, and more

+and more I suppose will it disappear as the day breaks and the shadows

+flee away.

+

+

+_Saturday, July 31st._--A peculiarly cold night, so cold indeed that I

+could not sleep even under a blanket. The people all experienced the

+same cold, and they said it was because of the calmness of the night and

+the heavy dew. Had there been a fire near, I could readily have got up

+to sit over it. The nights here are generally cool, but last night was

+absolutely cold. What shall I do when I go to England? This morning

+however, it is supremely lovely, and the wind in the S.W. for a wonder,

+for the S.E. Trades usually blow nine months out of the twelve. This

+morning I tried a photograph, which I dare say will prove a failure,

+from the extra care I took to prevent all mistakes. I only attempted

+one, but I hope I shall gain courage and experience as I go on and be

+able to reproduce some of these lovely views here. Of course every view

+is shut in more or less by the density of the surrounding bush, but this

+village has a considerable clearing and a good long vista for a

+photograph. My first attempt was on the church with some natives in the

+foreground, but the view will miss a great deal in a picture, owing to

+the absence of the beautiful colouring. It seems the fashion now-a-days

+here to build houses, and large parties to-day were busy thatching two

+new ones. I went with Patrick, Arthur Huqe and some more of the boys to

+Ruosi where we had a delicious bathe in the river, washed our clothes,

+caught prawns which we cooked very ingeniously in a bamboo. The prawns

+are put into the bamboo with water, and then placed on the fire with the

+orifice slightly elevated. It soon starts boiling, and to prevent the

+bamboo (always a green one) burning through it is constantly turned

+round and round, and in a very short time the prawns come out cooked

+red, and ready for eating. Cooked in salt water they are very nice, and

+they are looked upon as an especial delicacy when eaten with cocoanut

+cream. It is perfectly surprising what a number of dishes these natives

+wot of, and how frequently they vary their menu. Here they are

+especially good cooks, and I like most of their dishes very much. They

+are all slightly indigestible, but that one somehow expects. In most

+Melanesian islands the yam is the staple article of diet, but here the

+taro has the preference, and is planted in larger quantities. The yam

+likes a dry situation, but the kind of taro in common use here

+flourishes in a damp soil, and this is prepared for it by a neat and

+skilful system of irrigation.

+

+While we were sitting there at Ruosi one of the men told me a curious

+custom they have here. I knew him of old to be an habitual and heavy

+kava drinker, now he told me he never drank it and had not for months.

+It appears that persons who enjoy a certain rank can deny the use of

+this beverage to any one they like, and they place a sort of ‘tabu’ over

+the kava bowl, and this tabu is not taken off again until a pig or its

+equivalent is paid. A short time ago kava drinking became so general in

+the school as to impede the working of it, for teachers and scholars

+drank alike. The boys and young men therefore met together and laid

+mutual tabus upon each other, and for some time past very little kava

+has been drunk by those attending, and no one of those on whom the tabu

+was laid has chosen yet to take it off.

+

+This same man told me another curious custom they have with respect to

+revenge. If a man has a grudge against another and he wishes to kill

+him, or if he wishes to kill someone as a set off against someone

+belonging to him having been killed, he refuses to wash his hands until

+such time as they can be washed with blood. He told me of three

+brothers, Bushmen, who swore to kill a man apiece, the two younger

+brothers have already performed their part of the contract, but the dirt

+is still thick on the hands of the eldest, and he still means murder

+when he can get the convenient opportunity. It does not matter much, I

+believe, who the victim is as long as he has not many friends to

+retaliate. Poor weak inoffensive mortals in this way often lose their

+lives, innocent sacrifices to heathen brutalism and bloodthirstiness. We

+came home in the cool of the most glorious evening, a strange contrast

+in its peace and loveliness to the rage and horror of savage brutalism.

+A quiet evening service and the song of melody seemed more in tune with

+the scene without, and I trust that the Peace of God which passeth all

+understanding may ever keep our hearts and minds in the knowledge and

+love of God and of His Son Jesus Christ.

+

+I gave notice last Sunday of Holy Communion to-morrow, and this evening

+I held a Communicants’ class at which were present the two Arthurs and

+Patrick. Anthony and Samuel are too far away to be able to attend. I

+cannot but esteem it a high privilege and blessing to be enabled to

+receive and dispense the Bread of Life here in this once heathen

+village, and I pray that we may be strengthened and refreshed for our

+work, and show forth God’s praise not only with our lips but in our

+lives, and by giving up ourselves more fully to His service. May the

+time too be hastened when some of these good people may be permitted to

+partake of the visible tokens of redeeming love.

+

+It is now late, and except for the singing of crickets, perfectly still,

+fit prelude, I trust, to a peaceful Sabbath.

+

+

+_Sunday, August 1st._--Another peculiarly cold night, so cold indeed

+that I could not sleep although I had taken care to make proper

+preparations against it. How these poor ill clad, blanketless people

+fare I cannot make out, but no doubt they pile on the wood. It was most

+perfectly calm all through the night, and this morning there was a very

+heavy dew. The wind was blowing from some westerly quarter, and it has

+continued there with some strength all the day. We began our day very

+early with a Celebration of the Holy Communion. The two Arthurs,

+Patrick, and myself made up the quorum. It was a nice, quiet, refreshing

+time, and a fresh and green oasis in a somewhat arid, spiritual desert.

+I think, perhaps, it belongs to the native character and disposition to

+do without certain things which are to us essential, and the loss even

+of the Holy Communion is not so serious deprivation to them as to us.

+Native minds, I fancy, adapt themselves too readily to the existing

+condition of things, and because they live in the desert they must never

+even pine for the food and water which is not directly attainable.

+Unless the Holy things of our religion are kept before them in constant

+practice they are too wont to dispense with them, and be content with

+the dry husks such as their neighbours around feed upon. I shall

+therefore try to keep up the regular administration of the Holy

+Communion both for the present strengthening and refreshing of their

+souls, and for a continual remembrance that the reception of it is

+necessary to salvation. Easy native natures are too apt to float along

+with the popular stream, and to be content with dry, dull teaching and

+drier, duller services, and I sometimes long for the time when we shall

+have a more ornate church and appointments, and a more elaborate ritual.

+I firmly believe it would be helpful to the congregation. Now we are too

+content with such things as we have, and they are poor at the best.

+

+After the Celebration we had school. We assembled first in the

+schoolhouse, sang a hymn and I said a Prayer, then divided into classes,

+I myself taking all the old men into the Church, and trying to explain

+the sense of the collect to them. I told them how God had prepared for

+them that love Him such good things as pass man’s understanding, and I

+asked them how we knew that. I told them that God had revealed these

+things to us by His Son Jesus Christ, and He had left His testimony with

+us in His Gospel, and the books which persons chosen by Him had written

+under the influence and direction of His Holy Spirit. Their religion was

+a matter of mere hearsay and conjecture, and had been handed on from

+mouth to mouth, and had grown as it came down after the manner of mere

+verbal testimony. There could be no doubt with us because we have the

+living testimony of Christ’s own words which never pass away. Their

+religion came from nowhere and no one knew of its beginning; of ours at

+all events we were sure. I told them too that in England and other

+countries, where arts and sciences were known and practised far beyond

+anything they could conceive of, there were things so marvellous that

+their understanding could not grasp even the faintest idea of them, and

+how much more marvellous, wonderful, and glorious must the things be

+which God has prepared for such as love Him. Why even here below we see

+great and wonderful and mysterious things which pass the understanding

+of the world’s wisest minds, and how much more wonderful still must the

+things be which are to be revealed hereafter, when the eye shall be

+purified to see, the ear to hear, and the senses to discern the beauty

+and true glory of them. And what does God, who thus prepares these

+blessed things for us, require of us? Why to love Him above all things.

+Each one of us had some darling idol, to which we offered the devotion

+of our hearts, but it must be torn down and removed if it comes before

+our love to God. And the end of this love was God Himself, and to dwell

+with Him for ever as inheritors of His gracious promises which exceed

+all that we can desire. The old fellows were very attentive, and

+interspersed running remarks, and when I had done I asked them to kneel

+down, and I said the Collect as a Prayer for them. Meanwhile the other

+teachers had school with their scholars in the schoolhouse. The first

+class of boys and girls had to say their Collect by heart, and after

+that they were questioned on its meaning. School was closed with Prayer

+and a Hymn, and then I was ready for breakfast, very dry, uncooked rice

+with sugar and cocoanut cream, and a cup of delicious Norfolk Island

+coffee. Morning Prayer followed in due course before the day got too

+hot, and after this everyone was busy with their Sunday meal for the

+afternoon. The day was as hot as the night was cold, but it was most

+glorious, and all nature seemed to be keeping its Sabbath. The evening

+was perfectly serene and peaceful, a fit termination to a quiet, restful

+day.

+

+In the evening I had the teachers, and after that service at which I

+preached from the gospel of the day, “Except your righteousness exceed

+the righteousness of the Scribes and Pharisees.” They were very

+attentive during my remarks, so I trust I was understood. I told them

+God did not want us merely to come to school and church but He wanted

+the devotion of the heart, it was not outward righteousness He wished

+for, but inward truth and honesty and straightness. The Pharisees were

+very good Churchgoers, but their heart was not right with God, &c., &c.

+

+After Service we had singing which they always enjoy, and even now I

+hear their voices in the School house singing “There’s a friend for

+little children.” I had intended to have made an excursion to the

+neighbouring villages to-day but I could not manage the time, the day

+having gone so rapidly. Now it is very cool and betokens another cold

+night but Oh! how calm and peaceful!

+

+

+_Monday, August 2nd._--Another peculiarly cold night ushered in a most

+glorious day. A very heavy dew lay all round, and until the sun was

+quite high in the heavens the cold was very perceptible, and a flannel

+coat was very agreeable. I took two photographs early and trust they are

+good, but it would be very hard to reproduce the original so lovely as

+it appeared in the morning light. The scene too was animated with the

+cheery voices of the people, the crowing of the cocks, the merry

+laughter of the boys, and even the squealing of the pigs as they

+followed their owners for their morning food, lent additional and

+characteristic charm to the occasion. All this one cannot photograph,

+but it is necessary to suppose all this to give an idea of the village

+as it is on these glorious mornings. Here we are several hundred feet

+above the sea level, and a good way inland so that a pleasant day breeze

+always fans the air, and keeps the place gratefully cool under cover of

+a roof, or in the shade. I believe one could live here quite comfortably

+all the year round, and for myself I never feel better than I do here.

+There is such a freedom too about life here that one can carry a light

+heart and a contented mind in a healthy body. To-day almost without

+exception the people are off to the beach to windward. At this time of

+year the tides are very low, and leave the reefs almost entirely

+uncovered. Fish and crabs and other sea oddities are therefore left

+exposed, and the first named are shot by the men in the pools, and the

+women collect the latter, which are looked upon as choice articles of

+diet. Just now I am left quite solitary, but I have just dismissed a

+bevy of ladies who came to see the present seven days wonder, my

+magnetic fish. They cannot fathom the mystery at all why when one point

+of the fishing rod as they call it, is presented to the fish they

+eagerly rush at it, and why when the other they rapidly retire. They

+solve the problem by saying it is a “Wui,” (spirit). And it must seem

+strange to them as all our belongings must being of an order of art, so

+far removed from their conceptions or achievements. A kerosene lamp to

+this day is a marvel to them, and the manipulation equally mysterious,

+why it should flare up when turned one way, and why it should die when

+turned the other. One old woman who has been very sick and up to-day for

+the first time, came with the crowd and greeted me in the most maternal

+manner, grasping my hand in both her own, and calling me “Baua,” an

+obsolete word now, but belonging to a district called “Loqala” which was

+utterly devastated years ago by enemies among whom were these very

+people of Tanrig. This old lady and her son Samuel, now my head teacher

+at Tasmouri, are the sole survivors I believe, and she retains the

+expression or appelation by which a grandmother greets her grandson.

+

+I brought a box of refuse toys from Norfolk Island to which our boys and

+girls there have grown superior, and the exhibition and distribution of

+them created quite a furore. One would never suppose in these days of

+superior enlightenment that any people could be found simple enough to

+go into ecstacies over a halfpenny toy, but these women and children

+have gone off perfectly enraptured with their new possessions, and I

+dare say they will treasure them up for many a day and find pleasure in

+the contemplation and exhibition of them. One poor young mother has just

+brought in great distress her infant child which she says is suffering

+from a pain in its side, and the only remedy I can conceive of is a dose

+of castor oil. The father comes around to my side of the table, and

+whispers that it has not been ‘washed’ yet, meaning that it has not been

+Baptized, and that it has no name. While writing this Samuel appeared

+with another friend from Tasmouri, and I went with them to the beach

+where all the population had previously gone. Our path lay through the

+carefully and skilfully irrigated taro fields, and of course it was very

+bad in some places. Crossing one place I made a false step and went up

+to my knees, it was a fitting judgment on my pride for I refused the

+assistance of a stalwart follower’s back, which had borne me dry and

+safely over two such places before. I presented a strangely harlequin

+appearance with white flannel trowsers above the knee, and black mud

+gaiters below. However appearances are easily pardoned here, and the

+only grief was at my own discomfort. The people of course all said it

+was because the roads were so bad, but that was too palpable a truism,

+and was no relief to my feelings. Bootless and trowserless, these paddy

+paths make no difference to them, and mud has not the same appearance on

+a black skin. However we went to the sea-shore and saw the sport which

+was not much. One very large fish was caught with a hook and line, and

+the women had great horse-loads of shell fish, but generally the bowmen

+came off badly. The tide was out to the utmost limit of the reef, and

+quite half-a-mile from the shore the rocks were entirely exposed. Of

+course there was some very good reason for the failure and ill luck, and

+I was somewhat surprised to hear the wind blamed. It so happened that

+what of that element there was, was off shore, but if it had been only

+blowing in shore it would have driven in the fish. However there was

+disappointment depicted on every countenance, and there was some

+trifling relief to the feelings in putting the blame on the wind.

+Probably if the wind is all right to-morrow something else will be

+wrong, and so on. What a wonderful place in the English language those

+two little words ‘if’ and ‘but’ have, and how they qualify almost every

+action of mankind, and how usually are they made use of in

+self-extenuation. How scarcely possible is it to describe a single

+character without the use of one or other of them! He would be a very

+nice fellow ‘if.’ She would be an estimable woman ‘but.’ On our homeward

+road I marched boldly through mud and water taking pride I suppose in

+revenging myself, and showing my unmentionables that now the pink of

+their whiteness was off, they might just as well be a little more dirty.

+However, a refreshing bath was some return for my chagrin and

+discomfort, and I hastened home for a clean change. The cooks brought me

+two deliciously cooked fish for dinner, and were very disappointed when

+I sent them back untasted. I am never very partial to fish, and in these

+latitudes my digestive organs rebel even against the smell of them.

+However, the boys very soon picked the bones, and perhaps were not sorry

+that I had not partaken. There is great feasting going on to-night with

+both sexes, the men with their fish supper and the women with

+shell-fish.

+

+Everywhere to-day we saw the bush lit up with the bright red “Rarava,” a

+gorgeous tree, which flowers at this time of the year, and gives its

+name to the winter season. The other season is called “Magoto” from a

+reed of that name which shoots in spring, and these are the only native

+seasons of the year. There does not seem to be however any very marked

+distinction or peculiar line of demarcation between summer and winter as

+regards the heat and cold, but in fact it does seem to be warmer in the

+“Magoto” and cooler in the “Rarava.” To an Englishman however it is

+always hot, and he does not detect any material difference. One shivers

+now to think of ice and snow and of such concomitants of the winter

+season, for here of course they are absolutely unknown.

+

+

+_Tuesday, August 3rd._--It gets somewhat monotonous to write every day

+of cold nights, but this last one has been no exception. The cold is so

+peculiar and penetrating that clad in flannel from head to foot, and

+covered with a blanket and rug, I failed to keep it out, and slept very

+badly in consequence. When I did sleep, too, I was troubled with dreams

+and fancied myself in Ireland hunted by ‘Moonlighters.’ I had proposed

+to go to a very distant district called “Golvanua” to-day, but at the

+eleventh hour my escort cried off and I could not go alone. I cannot

+quite say why it is, but natives when they are about to make an

+excursion almost invariably start on the spur of the moment without

+making any previous appointment, or specifying any distinct time.

+Whether they wish to elude ‘Fate’ and deprive it of the chance of being

+unpropitious by stealing a march, or whether the fear of material foes

+induces them to do these things secretly so that they may not be

+cognizant of their movements, or what it is I do not know, but fact it

+is that if you want to make a journey, you must abide the native’s time

+and conveniences for they will seldom assent to yours if premeditated or

+prearranged.

+

+I quite expect that some fine morning, before I am out of bed perhaps,

+my escort will be awaiting me outside my door, and anxiously and

+impatiently desiring to start at once. Natives make no preparation for a

+journey, they have no impedimenta of travel, and lightly clad, and

+lightly weighted, they are ready at any moment to start, and a long or

+short stay is all the same to them. They want no canteens or bedding or

+change of clothing, and they can lay their heads down in any spot, and

+rest and refresh themselves, and be ready for any emergency. They do not

+even need as much as a tooth brush and pair of slippers for their

+excursions, and marvel at our wanting so much to them unnecessary

+luggage. I believe I should make many more journeys, if I could

+accomplish them with so little inconvenience and discomfort.

+

+Samuel went back this morning, and I am to go to Tasmouri on Friday for

+a week. He gives a very good account of his work there and I am anxious

+to see and judge for myself. The whole Community there are Baptized, and

+most exemplary Christians they are. They are very nice lively

+good-natured people too, but are not very numerous. Indeed these Maewo

+villages have dwindled down to very few inhabitants, from one cause and

+another, and a large measure of the decrease is owing to the wide spread

+practice of infanticide. Now in this district that practice, thank God,

+is checked and the population is again on the increase. Moses who was

+here with Samuel to-day asked me to Baptize while at Tasmouri his fourth

+child, three boys of his are already Baptized, and such mothers as his

+wife are a blessing to the race. Here two mothers have three children

+apiece, and several have two. I wish however the mothers would bring up

+their children a little better, they are the perfect slaves of their

+offspring, and give into them in everything. Talk about spoilt children,

+I have to roar every day of my life to some little urchin, screaming his

+lungs out because his mother does not do at once what he wants. The

+mother beats at one moment and coaxes at another, and the child grows up

+anyhow, a burden to himself and a nuisance to his neighbours. I want a

+good superior minded and well educated mother here to give some

+practical advice. Arthur’s wife is but a child herself, and as devoid of

+gumption as the rest of them. Poor people, they do not know what trouble

+and misery they entail upon themselves and their children from a want of

+a little firmness, and well timed correction.

+

+It has been a most glorious day, and this morning I accepted an

+invitation from the boys to go to ‘Kerepei.’ The tide was very low and

+many of the people had preceded us, and were busy searching the reef and

+rocks for the much prized products of the sea shore. The little fellows

+got me most deliciously sweet green cocoanuts, and while I was bathing

+caught me a nice lot of prawns for my tea. Days spent in this way are

+very pleasant, for we get to know each other all the better, and I can

+exercise a continual supervision over their actions. I generally carry a

+paper or portable volume with me, and to-day the Church Times was my

+companion. The evening was most glorious and peaceful, but when the sun

+went down peculiarly cold. Now as I write I have a blazing fire in my

+house, and I feel the comfort of it. The poor ill clad people are

+shivering all around, and are off to their several domiciles to try and

+get some heat. The attendance at school to-night was worse than I have

+known it yet, and the cold was said to be the reason of it.

+

+

+_Wednesday, August 4th._--There seems a perfect rage for fishing just

+now, when the exceptionally low tides afford such advantages for the

+pursuit. School was no sooner over to-day, than there was a general

+exodus seaward of all the able bodied inhabitants of the place. They

+talk to-day of trying the “Tasigoro” to see what it yields. This

+Tasigoro is a tabu’d enclosure of so much of the reef as those who make

+it choose, and it is made in this way--one, two, three or indeed any

+number of people who have reached the rank of “welu” kill a certain kind

+of pig, and for ten days the killer or killers are supposed to subsist

+on pig’s flesh, at the end of ten days they go to the beach, and mark

+off the chosen portion of the beach with a long bamboo at either end,

+like a base for football, but on a somewhat larger scale, and tie on to

+the bamboo the leaf of a certain palm tree; the person or persons then

+bathe in that part of the sea, and the juice of the pig’s flesh which

+they have eaten, is supposed to have the effect of sanctifying in some

+way the place, and no one fishes within the enclosure until the “welus”

+choose to take the “tabu” off. There is a talk of doing this to-day, and

+the whole population turns out to it. Of course the whole length and

+breadth of the reef during these low tides is left high and dry, and the

+fish have wisdom enough to retire as the tide goes out, but some are

+dilatory like Lot in his flight from Sodom, and some stop to have a look

+back like his wife, these are therefore left behind in the several pools

+that are everywhere dotted about of more or less depth. Some fish again

+which feed upon the reef have natural channels of escape into deep

+water, but these are very skilfully guarded by the natives with large

+nets, and the fish are captured while making a rush to get out into the

+open sea. All these channels are carefully guarded, and a very large

+number of fish shut in from escape on the more or less exposed reef. The

+leaves of a certain shrub are used for the purpose of stupifying the

+fish in the deeper pools, and they are easily caught when under the

+influence of the stupification. Others again are shot with bows and

+arrows, others speared, others caught by hand until at times the haul

+numbers several thousands, of all sorts, sizes and descriptions. After

+this great catch of course there is much feasting and rejoicing, and

+according to their own old heathen superstitious ideas there is

+something sacred in the fish so caught. ‘Kava’ is largely drunk on these

+occasions and the festivities are prolonged for many days. After my

+experience the other day I did not care to go again, and followed Arthur

+and some others to ‘Rarava,’ whither I took my photographic camera, and

+shot off a most beautiful picture in nature. I hope it may prove so in

+development.

+

+William, one of the men, lit a fire and soon produced some fine large

+bread-fruit which were placed on the embers, and deftly turned over and

+over so as to be properly cooked all round. The result was that in about

+a quarter of an hour I was engaged upon a smoking hot loaf of bread,

+which eaten with scraped cocoa-nut is very nice indeed. Breadfruit is

+too much like boiled dough to be really very nice, but to me it is very

+palatable food. The black outside coating peels off very readily when

+well cooked, and leaves a round puddingy sort of compound to be eaten.

+Inside are seeds somewhat bigger than a marble, not unlike filberts,

+and these are generally eaten with the breadfruit, the hard outside husk

+easily peeling off, and leaving a large bean like kernel. “Duwu”

+prepared his in quite a new way to me. Having pealed off the outside

+crust caused by the cooking, he wrapped the whole fruit up in the long

+dracæna leaves, and tied up the neck very carefully. He then took a

+small bamboo, and beat the breadfruit into a soft pulp, giving it a few

+final bangs on the ground, the leaves were opened, and the pudding

+turned out on leaves resembling very much a squash, and then cut up like

+a vegetable marrow into slices and eaten with scraped cocoanut. This I

+think was nicer than the bare breadfruit. We were a little party of

+twelve of both sexes, and all shared alike, men and women eating

+together in the most friendly manner, and not only so but the men did

+the cooking and helped the women in the nicest way. I could not help

+thinking what a contrast it was to years gone by. There we were sitting

+every man under his own vine and under his own fig, with no apparent

+fear or apprehension of evil, and the most perfect harmony of the two

+sexes existing among us. Here you scarcely ever now see the husband

+without the wife, and where you see the wife you may know the husband is

+not far off. Amina and Eliza kindly got me some land crabs which I

+enjoyed for tea. These and prawns are readily obtainable, and make a

+nice occasional change.

+

+

+_Thursday, August 5th._--A strong Trade wind blowing fresh all night,

+and this morning it is still very gusty and disagreeable.

+

+To-morrow there is another house to be thatched, and those who are not

+crazed about fishing are off getting food. From the commencement to the

+finish, house building here is a matter of great importance. There are

+four kinds of houses, of which the ‘gamal’ is the chief. This is the

+men’s club, and the young men’s sleeping quarters. Within its walls the

+women may not enter, and there is a certain circumscribed boundary into

+which they may not trespass. All food cooked in the ‘gamal’ is partaken

+of by the men only, and a woman may not eat of it under any

+consideration. ‘Kava’ is prepared and drunk there also, and of this a

+woman may not drink. Within the gamal are various ovens according to the

+several degrees of rank, and those of the same grade eat out of one

+oven, and the rules of precedence are strictly adhered to. Fire used

+within the gamal may not be used in a private house. After a certain age

+all boys are supposed to live in the gamal, and that becomes their

+proper quarters until they marry and build houses of their own. Any man

+may sleep in the gamal and eat food there.

+

+The next house in importance is the “ima” or married man’s residence.

+Within this house the cooking of the food for the family is done, and

+the married couples live. This house is known from the rest, by having

+the front and back end worked with cane, and more pains are expended on

+the building of it. The third kind of house is the “vale,” within which

+there is no fire place for cooking, and this is used mostly as the

+apartments of the young females before marriage, and for stowing any

+treasures which may be inconvenient in the “ima.” The front and end of

+the ‘vale’ are made only of bamboos. A fourth kind of house is the “ima

+somu” (the Bank). In this house is kept the treasures of the village,

+and it is always known by a peculiarly neat front of reeds, and by a

+very curious sort of pallisade of reeds placed in a sort of semicircle

+around the front door. Within this house a fire is kept continually

+burning night and day, and the reason for this is that the most prized

+and valuable article of barter here is the smoked mat, and the blacker

+it can be smoked the more does it increase in value. As may be supposed,

+within these houses a most weird and odd sight presents itself. The

+gross darkness being only relieved by the glowing embers of the undying

+fire, the fresh black mats look like so many great flying foxes

+suspended over it.

+

+The importance of the several houses is therefore in this order, the

+“gamal,” “ima,” “vale,” and “ima somu.” When a building is finished

+there is always a great ceremony ranging in importance according to the

+description of the house. For the gamal the ‘house warming’ is a matter

+of much ceremonial called “nasu,” and a man is supposed to “nasu gamal”

+with a pig at least. Any live stock may be slaughtered in “nasu ima,”

+and fowls, or if possible fish, are mostly in requisition. Plain food

+only is required for the two latter, but all the same there must be some

+house warming, or the building would not be properly finished. The house

+I occupy is an “ima,” and being a proprietor of many pigs, I am going to

+add to the dignity and full completion of my residence, by slaughtering

+two innocent animals next Thursday (D.V.) and the school will get a

+general holiday and a pleasant evening. I do this partly because I want

+to give the boys some slight return for the pains they have been at in

+building the house, to get a piece of pork myself, and to give a holiday

+in honour of my return among them. They say they must dig an oven

+within the ‘ima’ to make the thing complete, but to this I object.

+To-morrow, all being well, I go to Tasmouri.

+

+

+_Friday, August 6th._--Morning Prayer, school and breakfast at Tanoriki,

+and then started with three others for Tasmouri. It was a most lovely

+day, and a fresh Trade wind fanned the air and kept the paths pleasantly

+cool. Beneath the deep, dark shade of the native forest, the strong

+burning heat of the morning sun was not oppressive, and the roads and

+bush were fortunately very dry. However, any exertion in this climate

+induces perspiration, and that one expects.

+

+The native guide swung along at a rapid pace, and we were not long in

+reaching “Uta,” where we rested for some time in the neat little school,

+and Takele regaled us with green cocoanuts, which were very acceptable.

+Poor Takele, who has only one enlightened friend to help him, finds a

+difficulty in getting his scholars together on a week day, and no

+wonder, as I suppose he knows very little more than they do themselves,

+and it is irksome to old people to spell over their A.B.C. day after

+day, and get no oral instruction. It is far more in consonance with

+their feelings and habits to go out for the day, either to the seashore

+or to their gardens, than to be trammelled with the cares and labour of

+school. On Sundays he says they turn up in large numbers, and generally

+some one goes to them from Tanoriki. I promised him a visit for Sunday

+week, all being well, and I shall try to keep my promise, for he

+deserves all the help we can extend to him. He has never been away, is a

+man now of middle age, and entirely self-taught. He is a most excellent,

+conscientious man, and tries to do all he can for his people, according

+to his limited amount of knowledge.

+

+He built the school himself and keeps it in most extraordinary order. In

+many cases he has acted as a deterrent on his countrymen, when they have

+proposed some heathen act which he has not thought to be within the

+bounds of strict rectitude, and I believe he tries to lead a good life

+as far as he knows. As far as morality goes, I do not think anyone would

+venture to bring an accusation against him. I have always intended to

+Baptize him, and perhaps this year I may put my intentions into effect.

+Leaving “Uta” we still marched on in single file, till we reached the

+brow of the cliff down which, of necessity, we had to descend, Tasmouri

+being on the other side of the island to windward. A striking and broad

+prospect greeted us from the hill top, and we saw besides Meralava and

+the wide expanse of ocean before us, the grand fertile plain belonging

+to the Tasmouri district, and the church and school visible in the far

+distance. At the foot of the steep cliff our way lay through the

+beautifully irrigated taro beds, and of course I had to pick my way to

+prevent being buried in mud. Leaving the gardens, we had a grand stretch

+of level country before us, and before long we came upon a merry party

+of Tasmouri people awaiting our arrival, some distance from their

+village. Being tired and hungry I pushed on ahead with some of the boys,

+and enjoyed a refreshing bathe and change of garments. Then came what I

+suppose I must dignify by the name of dinner, mostly native food, but

+eaten with the best sauce was as good as the best Lord Mayor’s feast,

+and I dare say as digestible. The Bishop’s kind present was most useful,

+and the canteen contained every article requisite for out of the way

+travellers. After the meal the people came home, and before long we had

+Evensong. I was quite surprised at the heartiness of the responses, the

+fluency of the reading, and the general brightness of the singing and

+service.

+

+The women sang out lustily with a good courage, and although a trifle

+slow the result was pleasing on the whole. With a little teaching the

+singing and service will be very nice. I find I have Baptized forty-six

+people here, two of whom have died, two have gone away in a labour

+vessel, and forty-two still remain. They are a very nice, genuine,

+exemplary community, and Samuel has kept them well together. They seem

+to me beyond the Tanrigese in point of mental ability, and readily take

+in fresh ideas. One or two of the young men are very superior fellows.

+This evening I felt the warmth of this place, by comparison with Tanrig,

+and for the first time for the year I have slept without any kind of

+covering. The reed bed I found somewhat hard, but one cannot expect

+everything, and is content with such things as one has. The condition of

+the people morally, socially and spiritually, simply reconcile one to

+any amount of bodily inconvenience. I can thank God and take courage.

+

+

+_Saturday, August 7th._--Most beautiful morning at Tasmouri. After

+Prayers and breakfast we all went for a picnic to a pretty place called

+“Ro[¨n]o nawo” meaning the sound of the surf, but why I don’t know. It is

+curious how the Mota word has got in here “nawo.” The word here for surf

+is “togovi” but nawo comes probably from Meralava. We all turned out for

+the holiday, men, women and children. The women did the cooking while

+the men and boys amused themselves in various ways, fishing, shooting,

+bathing or playing an animated game called “buka,” something between

+“prisoner’s base” and the old game of “tig.” Some of the young men

+amused themselves by shooting at a mark about thirty or forty yards

+distant. They made such good shooting at that distance, that I should be

+very sorry to give them a shot at me with a good well balanced poisoned

+arrow. At short distances of course they make very good work, and in

+their own skirmishes they don’t want to make long shots. I dare say by

+the side of a good English archer they would cut a sorry figure at a

+long shot, but for their own purposes they are excellent shots, and

+custom of course engenders skill. Their arrows are unfeathered, and I

+don’t expect will carry as true as the better made English arrow. Their

+bows are very strong and durable, being made curiously enough from a

+tree called the “Aru” (she oak). I spent my day pleasantly enough in

+reading and making pencil notes. Crabs and breadfruit was my luncheon,

+and a green cocoanut. The whole party assembled in the course of the

+afternoon, and the ovens were opened and their plentiful supply of food

+disgorged. I said grace and then there was a general fall to. The meal

+over we made preparation for a start homewards which we reached some

+time before sunset. On the way home the boys showed me in the water

+course a cocoanut tree which time had failed to rot or destroy, and the

+story according to native ideas was that this same tree was coexistant

+with the upheaval of the island, and had never changed, generation after

+generation handing on the fact of its existence and whereabouts.

+

+In the evening we had Prayers in the church and a nice hearty Service.

+Poor “Samuel” the head teacher is sick and has not been able to be with

+us to-day. I gave a short address at Evensong explanatory mostly of

+to-morrow’s programme. It is very warm here and one’s thoughts either

+cease to flow or one’s hand to write, anyhow I find a difficulty in

+inducing energy to write or my brain to cogitate.

+

+Except for the perpetual boom and surge of the restless ocean all is

+still and peaceful here at present.

+

+On Saturdays following the general and long prevailing custom of the

+Mission we have a whole holiday, and consequently this morning we had

+only the shortened form of Mattins such as we use here. Breakfast

+followed consisting of yam scraped and cooked in leaves, and the

+particular kind presented for my discussion this morning is called

+“laqa[¨n]a.” The natives are great cooks and have a very long list of

+various dishes on their menu.

+

+There are three principal modes of cooking food, however, such as yams

+and taro, (1) Roasted on the embers and the outside skin carefully

+scraped off as it gets hardened, this is called “tutunu,” (2) scraped on

+the rough edge of the tree fern, then wrapped in leaves like a large

+pudding and cooked in the hot stones, this is termed “loko,” (3) roasted

+on the fire until cooked, then beaten on a large wooden dish until as

+thin about as biscuit pastry, and cocoanut cream poured over, this is

+named “lutu.” The first two are the most common preparations, and the

+first perhaps most generally in use.

+

+The different kinds of “loko and lutu” are wonderful, and it would

+puzzle any one but a skilled native cook, to make any distinct varieties

+of dishes out of such unpromising materials.

+

+Both sexes are good cooks, and no wonder, as from the time they are able

+properly to run about, until the infirmities of old age creep on they

+are accustomed to shift for themselves. An English boy would fare very

+badly if he had to cook his own dinner, and provide for his own wants as

+early as some of these native children. But education and habit are

+everything, the latter of course is second nature.

+

+

+_Sunday, August 8th._--At Tasmouri. Beautiful but very warm morning.

+After breakfast we had Sunday School, at which every member of the

+village population was present. I was much pleased with the way four or

+five classes repeated by heart their catechism, and the collect for the

+week, and answered general questions on the subject. It showed one that

+school was a serious and important business both with teacher and pupil.

+We went from the school into church, where we had full Morning Service

+but without any Sermon. Service over, I was followed by the whole male

+population to Tasmate. The day was very hot, and we had been obliged to

+choose the hottest part of it for our walk. However we tumbled over the

+same creepers, knocked our heads against the same branches, brushed

+against the same bristly bushes, that the natives of Maewo have done

+ever since they peopled the island. No one ever thinks of trying to

+improve his own or his neighbour’s ways, and from being accustomed so

+long to the present condition of the paths, they are quite content to

+experience the discomfort for ever and aye, they were good enough for

+their own forefathers, why should not they be good enough for them.

+Being head and shoulders taller than most of our natives, I suffered

+untold agonies mentally and physically, but I submit to the necessity,

+knowing that unless I commence to improve matters myself, I may expect

+the same discomforts to the end of the chapter. My helmet on more than

+one occasion has saved my head very severe concussions, and to be

+bonnetted is no uncommon occurence. However, on we swung, I being

+thankful that the road was so level as it was, and at length arrived at

+Tasmate more fit to be comforted than to think of administering comfort

+to others. They have built a nice little school here, and by the way

+they turned up at the subsequent service it was manifest that they knew

+the use of it. Augmented by the Tasmouri people the little place was

+crowded to its fullest capabilities, and the heat and flies were not

+such as one would choose for ordinary enjoyment, but personal comforts

+with Missionaries are a secondary consideration. We had a nice service,

+and I gave a somewhat long address in spite of inconveniences, and when

+it was over I retired to the cool refreshing shade by the sea shore, and

+all at once everyone began to feel the heat and followed me there.

+However, our conversation ran in an edifying course, and I hope some

+were profited by it. The return home was the next consideration, and I

+must say it seemed formidable for a Sunday afternoon. We reached a place

+called “Na Seu,” and there I could not resist a bathe in the natural

+bathing place, under such a deliciously cool shoot of water. We came

+home by a new route which was said to be much shorter, but it turned out

+to be quite as long I think, and not nearly so pleasant walking.

+

+At “Uta riki,” where I formerly remember a good population, one man and

+a small child are the only surviving remnant. The rest are all scattered

+or dead. We asked him to come to Tasmouri and live there, but he would

+not consent on the spur of the moment. His son and relations left are

+mostly there. In matter of wives he has been a regular Blue Beard, and

+the last of a long list has just died, and left him a widower.

+

+We arrived in due course at Tasmouri, and after dinner all together,

+which the women had provided in our absence, we had Evensong, a very

+nice service with a Sermon from me. The women proposed singing

+afterwards, and this went on till late. At the Evening Service I

+Baptized the infant daughter of Moses, naming her Anika. Moses, wife,

+and four children are now a Christian family. His care of, and love for,

+his children gave me good food for my discourse afterwards, as did the

+case of ‘Dimeli’ and the remnant of his people migrating from the place

+where many had died, to a place where all were going to keep well and

+live, with the result that all have died with the exception of himself.

+There was no hope of life apart from God.

+

+

+_Monday, August 9th._--Very hot, oppressive day, and I was so ill

+throughout I did little or nothing. My efforts to get cool were utterly

+abortive. Great Christening festivities were going on all day. The

+fatted pig was killed and eaten with much thankfulness and rejoicing in

+the evening. At Evensong I screwed my courage up to a Sermon which was

+better listened to than delivered. Afterwards there was a dance.

+

+

+_Tuesday, August 10th._--I saw this morning a beardless youth, who is

+the tenth husband of a woman in the district. One of her sons is a

+full-gown man at Tasmouri, himself married many years. There is no

+accounting for taste, but on which side the love or taste is I do not

+know. Beauty of face and figure have little weight generally with

+natives, they think more of utility and position. They seem to me to

+have no idea of the sublime and beautiful either in woman or in nature

+according to our ideas, and in a very matter of fact way look to the

+practical side of the business. Polygamy here is the exception, and

+there is not so large a percentage of females as is found in some of the

+islands. However, if they are all as easily satisfied as the youth

+mentioned above, young girls will be at a premium. There is one man here

+at Tasmouri who has two wives, and he steadily refuses to divorce one or

+the other with a view to Baptism, and according to our present practice

+in the administration of that Holy Rite, we insist on monogamy.

+Strangely enough the son of this very man had five wives, four of whom

+he divorced in order to be Baptized. All the four divorced are now

+married and Baptized at Tasmouri.

+

+It was so intolerably hot in the village, I proposed that we should go

+to Ro[¨n]onawo, as I was going to Tasmate to sleep and that was about a

+half-way house. All the population followed me, and there we cooked our

+dinner and rested. After the meal we had a short service there on the

+beach which was very quiet and solemn, and then with most of the men I

+turned my steps towards Tasmate, Samuel and a few others, with the women

+going back to Tasmouri. There was a great shaking of hands, some

+profusion of tears among the women, and a great deal of Christian

+harmony between us all.

+

+Arriving at Tasmate we found another dinner awaiting us, and a hearty

+welcome. We had Prayers after dinner with a sermon from myself, in which

+I contrasted the present visit with those they must remember to have

+known in heathen days. Then the hands were full, but the heart was

+empty, now the heart was full of love and the hands carried no bow and

+arrows. We had great Hymn singing afterwards, and the men sat and

+talked outside about the present and the past. There are a few hearts

+here I can see being prepared for the good seed which may God sow in His

+good time, quickly if it may be, and water the plant of grace with the

+dew of His Holy Spirit.

+

+We were rather late before we thought of retiring, and I was not sorry

+at length when it was proposed, for without chair or seat, except a

+native tree, there was no great pleasure in sitting.

+

+

+_Wednesday, August 11th._--Spent a very uncomfortable night at Tasmate.

+The kind people had done all they could to make me comfortable, but I

+found the bed very hard, the sleeping quarters very rough, the fleas in

+large numbers, and the mosquitos very lively. However, I have been more

+uncomfortable, and I was not unthankful to be brought safely to the

+beginning of another day. A place was named to me last evening called

+“Beitabu,” as being a most choice spot for a bathe, and it was said to

+be near at hand. Having not many toilet requisites with me, I proposed

+to one “Lulu” a denizen of the place to pilot me there. I was very

+“breakfasty” and most unrefreshed, but away we started for “Beitabu.” It

+was a fearful grind to get there, and the distance seemed to me

+interminable. Of course being well watered there were irrigated taro

+beds, and I slipped off a bank clean into the mud. Yet when the spot was

+reached it made up for all difficulties and distresses and proved to be

+a most marvellous natural bath, a large, clear, deep pool, with water

+pouring in from a charming little waterfall, and flowing out rapidly

+over the rocks below. I do not know when I have enjoyed a bath more, or

+when water had a more invigorating and refreshing effect on me.

+Fortunately my host had what breakfast there was ready for me when I got

+back, and in my state of exhaustion it did not much matter what it was.

+After breakfast we had Morning Prayer with a short address from me

+instead of school. Not long after “sail oh!” was cried and my boat

+appeared to bring me back here to Tanrig, and heartily glad am I to be

+back here again in comparative comfort. We had a pleasant but rather

+heavy row up the coast, our party on board numbering twenty-eight.

+Fortunately the sea was very smooth, and not much wind, or probably we

+should not have fared so well. All my Tasmouri friends came on with me

+and are spending the night. All were well here and the place looked much

+as usual. One little baby had died unbaptized during my absence, a

+matter of great regret to everybody, and very much so to me. I had known

+of the child’s illness, and it was better before I left. I had

+therefore postponed its Baptism until I could make it convenient to

+Baptize three or four more infants now waiting for the Rite.

+

+

+_Thursday, August 12th._--General holiday. Arthur took occasion to “nasu

+ima” at the same time with me, and the great event of two house warmings

+drew together a large concourse of people. Fire was lit in my house, and

+part of a pig and two fowls were cooked in the oven. It is the custom

+here to have as many kinds of flesh as possible on these occasions, and

+as many kinds of vegetables, representing I suppose all the different

+sorts of food that will hereafter be cooked therein. There has been

+great preparation for this day, and great excitement to-day. Every

+household added its mite to the feast, and in the evening when the feast

+was spread out there was a grand display. Everyone had huge pieces of

+yam and taro and banana cake, and a large piece of fish, fowl and pork.

+The pork takes precedence, but the fish costs the greatest pains in

+provision, not being so easily within their reach or means of

+acquisition. Fish in these countries do not seem to take hook and bait

+readily, and the poor natives have to resort to all manner of odd

+expedients to secure them. There were many strangers here, and quite 150

+people or more must have partaken. The pork was very nice and most

+beautifully cooked in the native oven. The females presided over the

+cutting up, but Arthur as co-host with myself gave directions as master

+of the feast. He gave a sigh of relief when he came into my house after

+it was all over, and said “there, what a poor return for so much

+labour.” That always strikes me as the most pitiable thing about a

+feast, it is all over in the twinkling of an eye, and what have you for

+your pains?

+

+This evening there is a great dance, a vast crowd of people has already

+congregated, and it is to go on till morning light. It is done as a

+special compliment to myself, and I do not like to stop them. The

+patient endurance of some of the dancers is wonderful. From the start to

+the finish, say from 8 p.m. to 4 a.m., they never leave the ranks of the

+dance but keep at it all the time, singing, clapping the hands and

+dancing. There is no rest for a good supper at midnight, but the dance

+is carried right through to the bitter end. I am going to attempt sleep,

+but I fear the noise will prove too much for me. They have certainly a

+most beautiful night for their dance, but I should be sorry to be one of

+the performers. The songs are certainly very pretty, and they show

+wonderful power of memory to keep up the succession all through the

+night, without a book of words or musical score.

+

+I can imagine too, as the enthusiasm of the dance increases, that there

+must be a sort of fascination about the performance.

+

+

+_Friday, August 13th._--The dance was kept up till daylight, and I got

+little or no sleep before that. When I did get to sleep, I slept so

+soundly that it was late on in the morning before I awoke, and then I

+was driven to it. Arthur Huqe appeared at my bedside and asked me if he

+should ring the bell for prayers, and I was obliged to consent. The

+whole day afterwards was somewhat of a blank to me, and I went no

+whither and did little till evening. The duties of the day however, were

+carried on as usual.

+

+

+_Saturday, August 14th._--The usual holiday. We had Prayers very early,

+and before breakfast I took a picture of most of the congregation in

+front of the church, which I hope will turn out good. It was not a

+pleasant day indoors, there was a strong wind blowing, and clouds of

+dust penetrating my house from all quarters, and I was not sorry to

+accept Arthur’s offer to go with himself and most of the people to the

+riverside. There it is always cool and pleasant, and the luxury of a

+bathe, although almost a daily occurence, is always appreciated. I took

+my photographic Camera with me, and after almost burying myself in mud,

+succeeded in getting a good view of the pretty taro gardens. On our way

+to Rarava the monotony of the road was relieved by our starting a

+“malau,” the ornithological name of which I know not, but it is a kind

+of bush turkey, it has a red head, yellow legs and black feathers, and

+is really like a common hen in shape and appearance. The poor thing was

+evidently startled from her peculiar nest, where she was about to

+deposit her eggs. These strange birds after securing a favourable spot,

+lay their eggs some depth beneath the upper soil, and leave them there

+uncared for until the young ones hatch themselves, and when strong

+enough burst their earthly tenement, and come forth to the light of day.

+Some say the parent comes occasionally back to her nest to see how

+matters are progressing, and even digs at the earth to find out how the

+process of hatching goes on. If she finds her progeny ready to walk, she

+drives them on before her to a place of security, but the general belief

+is that she allows them to shift for themselves. These curious birds are

+said to feed principally on the large ants here called “gandee.”

+

+In Savo and some of the Solomon Islands, these birds are tamed and

+fenced in, to lay their eggs in the hot sand, but here they are wild and

+rare. Their eggs which are very numerous are esteemed a great delicacy.

+This poor bird in question tried very hard to get away by flight, but

+getting entangled in the thick bush, was shot by a cruel arrow. The

+capture was the food for conversation throughout the day, and I listened

+to the relation and re-relation of the narrative of it times without

+number, with all the little details with which natives are wont to

+embellish and amplify their narration of the smallest fact. It is

+perfectly wonderful how the smallest matter affords pasture for native

+conversation, and what a wonderful faculty they have of making multum

+out of parvum. In powers of conversation and flow of language, I think

+natives are far before our European working classes. A native never

+seems at a loss for something to say, and certainly never fails to

+express himself from lack of words.

+

+I have frequently heard an European confess that he had a great deal to

+say, but he could not express himself for want of words. The fluency of

+speech, and powers of conversation are not confined here to the weaker

+sex, and I think the men have quite as long tongues as the women,

+although I do not think they chatter so much or make such a clatter.

+Some of the men are great wits, and make fun for the multitude, but I do

+not think this applies to the women. The Maewo folks are great

+“laughers,” and go off into fits of cacchination at the smallest joke.

+They are a most simple, good-natured race certainly, and it is hard to

+conceive of their being such depraved savages, so gentle are they in

+their ways.

+

+After school with the teachers in the evening, during which we discussed

+our Sunday programme, we had Evensong, and afterwards a long singing

+practice. Miss Mount’s generous gift is a most welcome addition to our

+singing, and Arthur Huqe begins to play the harmonium very nicely at the

+services. Our singing is very fair on the whole, but there is room for

+improvement, and we have the ability if I could get the girls to use

+their very nice voices. In the old familiar hymns and chants they sing

+out lustily, but when we attempt anything new, they shut up altogether,

+without making a trial to join in.

+

+

+_Sunday, August 15th._--There are two very homely sounds which break the

+stillness of the early morning here, and the first is the cock which

+seems to have a peculiar faculty for crowing in these latitudes, he

+starts his chant before commerce is awake and he keeps religiously at it

+all day long. Here at Maewo, too, these birds are in prodigal abundance,

+their flesh is esteemed very delicate food, and is kept for great and

+exalted occasions. Here the male takes precedence of the female even in

+the matter of dumb animals, and sows and hens are looked upon as only

+fit food for women. The crow of the first cock is a signal for a general

+chorus, and then the natives begin to stir. As soon as they appear on

+the threshold of their doors another chorus takes up the morning song,

+and the pigs begin their squealing. Whether it is that one looks for

+more peace on Sunday morning, or whether one perchance is a trifle more

+inclined to take a little more sleep or a little more slumber, whatever

+the actual cause may be, I always notice that on Sundays there is always

+a greater noise from the domestic animals than on ordinary days. The

+pigs here are hand fed, and will not be denied, they squeal to their

+hearts’ content until they have their morning meal, and being in

+considerable numbers the noise is not sleep producing. In old days these

+animals were kept for their heathen feasts, but as of late these have

+fallen into disuse, so the pigs have increased until they have become

+one of the features of the place. At a Baptism or any great Church

+Festival such as Christmas, Easter, Pentecost, one or more male animals

+have to die, and although the possession of a flock is as much valued as

+an Englishman’s stud, no one ever grumbles to kill his animal when his

+turn comes round.

+

+Being very hot this morning, and there being a prospect of the

+repetition of the Egyptian plague of flies, who always add to the

+discomfort of a congregation, we had school very early. Our numbers were

+slightly augmented by outsiders, but not quite to my satisfaction. After

+a hasty breakfast I started for Uta. This is a good long distance from

+here, and I was in a state of dripping perspiration when I arrived

+there. I found everyone keeping a Sabbath, but very few appreciating the

+idea of a Christian Sunday.

+

+However, I had quite a large congregation in the neat little school but

+the ladies preponderated in point of numbers. We had quite a nice hearty

+little service, and they listened patiently to an address from myself. I

+wish from my heart I had a good teacher to place here, for I know he

+would be the means of doing much good work to God’s glory. The present

+teacher is a very good, conscientious fellow, but his own knowledge is

+not much above that of his own countrymen, and they grow weary of

+hearing continually the same thing. I was quite pleased with my visit,

+and amply rewarded for any discomfort I experienced in the journey. I do

+not expect that any immediate result will issue from such spasmodic

+efforts, but there is no knowing the power of grace, and God’s ways are

+not as our ways. Often it is that the last becomes first, and the first

+last. At all events I keep the door open, and I hope before long someone

+else may be raised up to settle among them as a permanent teacher. After

+resting awhile I took my homeward journey, escorted according to custom

+by the denizens of the village beyond their own boundary. I returned by

+way of “Na Ruru,” where “Anthony” one of our Norfolk Island trained boys

+has a school. He seems to be doing fairly well there, and has a nice

+school. After sitting with him for some time, the shades of evening

+began to close in, and I to feel somewhat famished, having had but

+little since morning. Bidding him goodbye I started for Tanrig, where I

+arrived in due course. After dinner I baptized three children, Maida,

+Victoria and Matthew respectively. The Font was very prettily arranged

+and decorated by Arthur Huqe, and the service generally, very nice.

+Later on we had Evensong, quite a refreshing and stirring service, at

+which I preached, and never before do I remember to have secured more

+attention. These children I Baptized this evening make up the number of

+Christians here to 100, under God, the fruits of my own, and my

+teacher’s work, and I feel that by the orderly and consistent lives of

+most of them, I can thank God and take courage.

+

+I took as the basis of my remarks, our Lord’s last command to His

+Disciples, and I urged those who had already been admitted into the

+fellowship of Christ’s religion, to eschew all those things which were

+contrary to their profession, and to follow all such things as were

+agreeable to the same, and those still without the pale to lose no time

+in applying for that rite, the absence of which our Lord declared must

+be condemnation. Those words have a strong sound here for Missionary and

+heathen--“He that believeth and is Baptized shall be saved, but he that

+believeth not shall be dammed.” One realizes here their full weight, and

+solemnity, and power. Quite three parts of the congregation have dropped

+in to wish me good night, and by the hushed stillness over the place I

+can tell that God’s Word has not fallen to the ground. God grant that it

+may minister grace to hearer and preacher.

+

+

+_Monday, August 16th._--The night was made perfectly hideous by the

+howling of the fiendish curs which are dignified with the name of dogs,

+the squealing of hungry swine, and the cackling of a poor forlorn goose

+whose kith and kin have left her a solitary representative of her

+species, and who seems to find her only solace in sitting outside my

+door and calling to her lost companions. The dogs are simply a pest to

+the place, they keep up their incessant bark all the day long, and all

+night they howl and prowl around. They are hideously ugly, undersized

+creatures, and are the more loathsome because they are the acknowledged

+scavengers of the place. They are not worthy to be called dogs, and any

+one except he was assured of the fact, would scarcely believe that they

+were dogs. They are supposed to be useful in catching wild pigs, but

+from their appearance you would fancy that it must be a poor specimen of

+a pig they would dare to tackle. It was a beautiful moonlight night, and

+all these sounds rending the still night air simultaneously drove sleep

+from my eyes, and produced such inward irritation and disgust that if a

+thought could have killed the lot, none of them would have troubled the

+world again with their noises. A most glorious morning enticed me up

+very early, and certainly the early dawn was very fresh and beautiful.

+We had Prayers very soon after daylight and even then the blue bottles

+had collected in great numbers and were by no means a help to devotion.

+These pests spring into existence at once as soon as any number of human

+bodies are congregated together, and are particularly active in church

+and school. The idea of them apart from their propensities is very nasty

+and disgusting, and when in a country like this without the concomitants

+of devotion, one wants all the solemnity one can possibly obtain, their

+presence and irritation are the more odious and nauseating.

+

+To-day, according to custom, we kept the Christening Feast of the

+children who were Baptized last night. The parents of the children gave

+a most beautiful pig, and the women attended to the cooking, the men

+dispersing in many directions each in quest of his own business or

+pleasure. I went with a party to Ruosi where we bathed, and got back in

+time for the opening of the ovens, and the division of the feast. I said

+grace and then each one partook of his or her share of the plentiful

+repast, all eating together in the most harmonious fashion, and not as

+in old days the sexes keeping religiously apart. This middle wall of

+separation has been almost entirely broken down, and family life and

+sociability have taken the place of the old seclusion and division. It

+was a most glorious night but the people were too tired to dance, and we

+all retired early to our houses. I kept busy till very late writing up

+arrears of correspondence and reading, and was the last in the village

+out of bed.

+

+

+_Tuesday, August 17th._--The most glorious day from earliest morning

+till now at night, the evening one of the most beautiful I ever saw,

+when the moon rose it was a most perfect night above and below, the sky

+studded with myriads of stars and absolutely cloudless, here everything

+hushed in peaceful slumber, except the restless, ever-singing crickets,

+whose buzz is continuously kept up by night and day. At the heathen end

+of the village there was a sort of Irish wake kept up to-day, but there

+was no “tangi” or any ceremony except a pig being killed, and a great

+feast being prepared. Formerly, death days were kept with great

+strictness, and the day of death and the 100th were observed with great

+festivities. I have seen nothing of the kind now for years, and I

+fancied the custom had quite died out. It was supposed in old days when

+the people were still heathen, that the disembodied spirit, after it

+left its earthly tenement, hung about hungry and restless on the thick

+creepers in the bush, and on the day of death a great feast was prepared

+for it, after which it retired to the place of departed spirits called

+Banoi. This same Banoi is near Tasmouri, but I have never seen it. The

+idea, I believe, is that when the spirit is at length at rest, its stone

+is placed in a certain cave or pit there exists there, and the people

+who have seen the place, tell me that certainly there far inland are

+smooth seaside stones laid in wonderful regularity, and in old days

+supposed to be put there by successive spirits in order as they died.

+Until quite recently, no one ventured into this ghostly place, and it

+was regarded as eminently sacred. Some day I hope to go there and

+examine it for myself.

+

+I cannot find out the rationale of the subsequent death days, but they

+seem to have more to do with the living than the dead, and are supposed

+to show the departed one that he or she is still kept in faithful and

+affectionate memory.

+

+In old days everyone was careful to have one good pig at least, in

+readiness for the day of his death, and any others which he might

+possess at the time of his departure, his friends were careful to kill

+in his honour.

+

+They carefully kept the days, principally the tens, I think, and

+religiously observed the 100th, after which remembrance seemed no longer

+necessary, but before that, I am afraid, there was a large amount of

+selfishness about the death days, and more was thought of the living in

+them than of the dead. The people tell me how strictly these days were

+kept formerly, they dispensed with their regular ordinary food sometimes

+for the whole 100 days, and ate only such roots and fruits as grow wild

+in the bush, religiously abstaining from all garden produce until the

+full time had expired. Some went even beyond this when a very particular

+person died, and for the whole 100 days ate only one kind of root, and

+that the most difficult to obtain, strenuously refusing to partake of

+food in common with others. I have known a man myself adhere to this

+rigid, self-imposed abstention, in the case of the death of a son, and

+of a wife, not here however, but at Opa. A man once came into my house

+over there, tired and hungry after a long fast and a laborious journey,

+but he strictly refused a biscuit or other food which I ventured to

+offer him, and when or where he ate I do not know, for the particular

+food he had chosen to eat was most rare in the neighbourhood, I doubt

+even if it was obtainable at all. Yet no privation or distress would

+force him to break his rule, and eat promiscuously until the proper time

+had elapsed. In the keeping of their days they are wonderfully accurate,

+and you seldom find them wrong in their calculations. Their fingers are

+their ready reckoners, and they have to do a great deal more work than

+ours in assisting a weak memory, where the use of slate and pencil are

+unknown. I very often ask people to count over the names of persons in

+the place or neighbourhood, just to see how clever and correct they are

+with their numbers. Here the whole ten fingers are used, at Opa only the

+left hand, five fingers down being five, the first finger up and the

+rest down six, and so on until all are up which makes ten, then two

+tens, three tens, up to ten tens or one hundred. In the distribution of

+food, too, it is wonderful how accurate they are, and it is very rarely

+that any one is left out of the count. Of course, where the science of

+numbers is unknown, nature teaches by a more roundabout, but scarcely

+less accurate process. For all practical purposes and uses, their

+fingers help them a great deal, indeed almost as far as their

+requirements go, for their lives are very simple and their ways

+uncomplicated. The leaves of a certain palm, however, lends them some

+assistance, especially in the distribution of food, and as the person is

+seen, or his name thought of, a leaf is broken off, and then the broken

+leaves are counted. I have never heard of the toes being used as

+assistants, although one might fancy their being of service.

+

+

+_Wednesday, August 18th._--About midnight as I lay reading in bed, and a

+perfect stillness reigned around, we experienced a very sharp shock of

+an earthquake. My house shook so uncomfortably, that I really feared it

+was coming down, and I had the sort of feeling as of some one trying to

+upset it, and I felt as if I must say “Oh! do not, please leave off, you

+will have it down.” My neighbour’s fence was shaken so, that I fancied

+some considerable damage had been done. The vibration lasted a good long

+time, some seconds I should say, after the real shock was over, and I

+felt myself, a sort of palpitation for some considerable period. I was

+not afraid, but no one can feel an earthquake without some instinctive

+dread. Nothing, I think, makes one feel one’s littleness and

+helplessness and insecurity more, and there is such a solemnity attached

+to it, that you are very thankful when it is fairly over. Man, bird and

+beast were roused into action at once, and there was quite an excitement

+here for a time. Curiously enough, in the evening there was a very

+bright and exceedingly beautiful after-glow, and I remarked to the boys

+how like it was to the time when the terrible destruction was caused in

+the gulf of Sunda, and I said casually, that I should not be surprised

+if we had more earthquakes soon. The natives have a firm idea that they

+are the precursors of rain, and certainly this morning we have had a

+very heavy downpour. This is the first rain we have had for the whole

+month I have been here, and the first day I have been kept to solitary

+confinement. Most of the day I have been absolutely alone, and my pen

+has been kept very busy writing letters and hymns and songs. With the

+latter I have been very successful, and have managed four. One,

+particularly successful, goes to the chorus of “Wait till the clouds

+roll by,” and is as follows:--

+

+    Ge togatoga ririkqa.

+    Mati ni van ra[¨n]ai,

+    A la[¨n]i ni rowo na wia,

+    Tavi dago na tasgoro.

+

+    Gana sako na usu maraga,

+    Gana toura na gabe tar,

+    Gana tura goro na masi

+    Gana koko betegag.

+

+    Gana unui vagamatera

+    A le[¨n]ele[¨n]e mas

+    Gana tuwur, sogon le gete

+    Toli tasgoro rik ka sem.

+

+of which the translation is:--

+

+    Wait a little bit longer,

+    Wait till the tide is low,

+    Wait till the wind blow fairer,

+    And then make the tasgoro.

+

+    Then we will take bow and arrow,

+    Then we will carry our nets,

+    Then we will stop in the fishes

+    And gather them properly up.

+

+    We will kill them dead with poison,

+    All and every kind of fish,

+    We will gather and lay them in baskets,

+    What a glorious tasgoro!

+

+The _tasgoro_ I have before described. Part of beach enclosed, tabu’d,

+and after lapse of time opened again to the public.

+

+This evening we have sung this chorus with grand effect, and high as I

+was previously in popular estimation as a poet, I have gone still higher

+now. What a little thing wins popularity, how little is a thing so

+easily purchased worth the having! One other song goes very prettily and

+smoothly to “Home sweet Home,” and is much appreciated. It is, as far as

+I could adapt it, the reproduction of the English song into Maewo.

+“Dream Faces” supplied me with another very pretty little song, which

+runs very well, the theme of which is the “moonlight.” “Our Jack’s come

+home to-night,” lent me the music of a fourth song, which is peculiarly

+native in expression, and slightly more comic than the two above

+mentioned.

+

+The production of this last was received with such peals of laughter,

+that for a time confusion and merriment took the place of composure and

+perfect gravity. It would lose its charm and half its meaning if I were

+to attempt to translate it into English. Here, however, is the Maewo:--

+

+  Ta disava qarik             Isei ni tau na as?

+  Eh? Ro[¨n]o lolora va!      Ki isei qa ni sawu?

+  Wa sagoro ta sagoro         Ki gida, sem, ta lai ra[¨n]ai!

+      Ro[¨n]o lolora va!          Toli sagoro rik!

+

+  Da! ta sagoro da!           Ge riri betigag!

+  Ta sagoro tei rik           Ga laia ra[¨n]ai sag!

+  Kare mawmaw, tei riki vak!  Ge wosawosa limamu!

+      A wula marama!          Tolina rik ka sem!

+

+The “Dream Faces” song is as follows:-

+

+ Nan ligo asik suri marama,    --I’ll make my song about the moonlight,

+ Tolina rik sem a wula marama, --Charming indeed is the light of the moon,

+

+ Osoos ti rasu mera na maran,  --Darkness has flown, it is light as the day,

+ Non eteete ti lita soun na    --His brightness chased the night far away.

+       qo[¨n].

+

+ Nan ligo asik suri marama,    --I’ll make my song about the moonlight,

+ A[¨n]eisa tea le isi Tamada,  --Some day I ween in our great Father’s land,

+

+ Ala na maran vagatewa tau,    --There day unending for ever will be,

+ Qon tigai ala, moa marama,    --Night is unknown there, light only endless.

+

+The light called “marama,” is looked upon by natives as the perfection

+of light, because it is, I suppose, unaccompanied by the burning heat of

+the sun. I therefore use it as illustrating better the idea of heaven’s

+light. Maran is the light of day.

+

+

+_Thursday, August 19th._--The village was hushed in the stillness of

+slumber again about midnight, and I was preparing for bed, too, and

+kneeling down to say my prayers, when another quite sharp earthquake

+shock was felt, and the sensation came upon me very solemnly and

+impressively while so engaged. I cannot say why I trembled, but I did,

+and it was quite instinctive. However, I went to bed and slept

+profoundly. We have had another slight shock of domestic earthquake here

+this morning, and Ann, one of our young married women, after rating her

+husband, started off for Naruru, and we were quite in a ferment here for

+a short time. However, this evening, her parents went for her, and I

+have had to give her a scolding. I told her that anger was like a charge

+of dynamite, it not only exploded itself, but it produced destructive

+effects far and wide, indeed there was no knowing what the extent of its

+mischief might be. She seemed penitent, and was utterly ashamed of her

+unchristian conduct. I am thankful to say that scenes of domestic

+warfare are uncommon here, and, generally speaking, a great deal of

+harmony prevails, but of course there are clouds in the most perfect

+day, and the smoothest ocean is at times ruffled by the sudden breeze.

+Beyond this, our day has been like most other days, except for the

+thatching of Peter’s “gamal,” which has brought together a large

+concourse of people, and has been the occasion of a great festivity this

+evening. Arthur, Patrick and myself walked down to Ruosi in the

+afternoon, where we bathed, and returned in the evening. Our evening

+duties as usual.

+

+

+_Friday, August 20th._--Certainly we are blessed with the most glorious

+weather. This morning was simply perfect, and one almost wishes one

+could keep some of its coolness for the middle of the day, when the heat

+is very great.

+

+After school and breakfast this morning, some of the people invited me

+to go with them eel catching. As the performance was new to me, I gladly

+assented. The scene of the sport lay in the direction of the water fall,

+and I took my camera, hoping to get a good view of it.

+

+We followed the course of the stream, and waded through the taro

+gardens, and finally found ourselves in the most advantageous position

+for a photograph. It ought to be good, after all my efforts to secure

+the picture, but I could not get far enough away. While I have been

+writing this, since I began the last sentence, an earthquake shock has

+shaken the place very perceptibly, and, why I know not, has left a

+tremour all over me, which I cannot explain. The picture being shot

+off, I hastened back to where the eel catching was going on. The water

+was cleverly dammed off above two large pools, and then one pool

+“teemed” out with buckets. In the first pool nothing was discovered, and

+the next proceeding was to empty the full pool into the now empty one.

+This took some time, but it was finally accomplished, and one large eel

+was captured, the sole occupant of the pool, and the only sport afforded

+after a long day’s work. Disappointment was depicted on all

+countenances, and I was rather disgusted too, having expected to see

+some sport. I comforted myself with a most glorious bathe in the broad

+flowing river, and hastened home to drown my disappointment in a cup of

+tea.

+

+After school this evening, I was sitting here alone, when four men came

+in, in whispers, and shut the door behind them, and when they had sat

+down, they said, still in the lowest accents, “we wish to see your

+Eucharistic vessels.” I proceeded to exhibit them, and they seemed quite

+awe struck. Miss Patteson would have been pleased to have seen how her

+noble gift was valued and appreciated. The exhibition of the beautiful

+vessels gave me much food for conversation with these men, and I told

+them I hoped the day was not far distant when they would be regularly

+used in the Church here, and they themselves be partakers from them of

+the Blessed Tokens of Redeeming Love, the bread of the world in mercy

+broken, the wine of the soul in mercy shed.

+

+

+_Saturday, August 21st._--General holiday as usual. Nothing of

+particular importance marked the day, except the visit of three nice

+fellows from Uta. The British Workman’s Almanac adorns my walls, and

+they were particularly struck with the picture of Lord Shaftesbury which

+occupies the centre. Curiously, many others have admired this same

+picture, why I do not know, except perhaps from its size. I told these

+visitors all about the late Earl, of his philantrophy and the goodness

+of his life, and I told them too, of the philantrophy and goodness of a

+greater than he, “who went about doing, and healing all manner of

+diseases and sicknesses among the people.” They asked me if I had heard

+the earthquake of late, to which I responded in the affirmative, and

+told them of the terrible outburst of volcanic power at Tarawera, and

+the fearful and alarming results, and I said there was no knowing but it

+might be our turn next, and we ought to try and be prepared for whatever

+lay before us. I urged them to fly, while they had the opportunity, to

+the Higher Rock, for there we should find shelter and protection until

+the tyranny were overpast, and any such visitation would be but to bring

+us the quicker to a haven of rest and safety, whither such things never

+come. They asked me if I could not spare some regular teacher to come

+and live with them, to teach them the wonderful things of God’s law, and

+expound more fully to them, the things concerning the Kingdom of God. I

+promised them a weekly service, but I could do no more just yet.

+

+

+_Sunday, August 22nd._--A most glorious Sabbath morning. We had school

+before breakfast, both because it was cooler and also on account of the

+blue bottle flies, which become very troublesome in the heat of the day,

+where people are congregated together. Before our school duties were

+over, they became very numerous, and I was not sorry to get back to the

+refuge and quiet of my own house. After breakfast we had Morning Prayer,

+a very nice service, but not rendered more solemn by the presence, in

+crowds, of those disgusting pests, the flies. However, they are an

+inevitable worry, from which there seems no chance of escape. After

+Prayers I went to the Unduna villages, and talked to the few people I

+found there. They were keeping Sunday, they said, i.e. they were doing

+no work and were generally idling. I asked why they did not come to

+Church as formerly, and they said it was too far. I asked why then did

+not they build a school there, and I would be responsible for the

+teaching in it. They so far assented as to say that they would see about

+it, when they had got through with their yam planting. There is a nice

+little population there, and I have always had it on my conscience that

+nothing practical or definite had been done for them. Natives do not

+care to go to the trouble of a few yards more or less for religion, so I

+suppose the alternative is that religion must go to them. One very nice

+man called “Vangoro,” was most energetic about the building, in

+promising to get it done and helping all he could, he is a leading man

+there too, and I hope my desire will be accomplished.

+

+It was very hot coming back, and I was in a liquid state when I got

+home. The evening was deliriously cool and fine, and I enjoyed it

+outside my house with several of the people.

+

+Evensong was a very nice quiet service, and I preached on the subject of

+the Collect (9th Sunday after Trinity), the “spirit to think and do

+always such things as were rightful.” I hope I got intelligent

+attention. We had some nice singing afterwards, and the people went very

+quietly home.

+

+

+_Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday._--Blank days.

+

+On Monday there were great festivities here, and a dance till morning. I

+began to feel ill in the evening, and spent a most wretched night. On

+Tuesday I was unwell all day, and could do nothing. On Wednesday I was

+fearfully ill all day with a severe attack of fever and ague, and lay

+down under all the wraps I could secure, until the hot fit came on with

+a very severe headache. In the evening the boys surprised me by saying

+there was a white man outside, and I was glad to welcome Mr. Blackburne,

+Government agent of the Sybil, from Queensland. The vessel anchored at

+the watering place, and the boys told him “Missionary he plenty sick.”

+He therefore very kindly came up and spent the night with me. He has

+just left me now, and I have not strength to go with him to the ship.

+However, I am better to-day, and hope after a big dose of Quinine he has

+given me, that I shall be better.

+

+

+_Tuesday, August 31st._--I have wasted a whole week, and only to-day

+feel equal to doing anything or going anywhere. To-day for the first

+time for a week, I have moved out of the village boundaries, and have

+been to the river with the boys and bathed.

+

+It has been a sickly time here all together, and many besides myself

+have been laid by. It is bearably pleasant to be pent up day by day

+within doors when feeling well, but almost unbearably so when one feels

+ill and out of sorts. However, I trust it is all over now, please God,

+and I must endeavour to make up for lost time. Several of the people,

+Arthur included, have been quite ill through eating a certain eel,

+caught somewhere in the sea and very poisonous. They all detected the

+burning, stinging sensation on their lips, tongue and palate as soon as

+they had eaten it, but fancied it was the taro. From that time till the

+end of the week, they have been all laid up, and one or two have been

+very bad indeed. They have experienced not only burning, sharp pains

+internally, and pricking, poignant stabbing pains in the palms of the

+hands and soles of the feet, but have suffered a great deal also from

+strong and utter prostration with an abhorrent distaste for food.

+Several others were warned betimes from partaking, or the poisoning

+might have been more general. This particular eel was caught by a

+heathen on a Sunday, and therefore its peculiarly deleterious and

+poisonous qualities have been traced by the more virtuous to that fact,

+of which no cognizance was taken before it was cooked and eaten, nor

+would have been afterwards, but for its effects. The really admitted

+fact, however, I believe, is that certain fish caught at certain parts

+of the beach at particular seasons of the year, have all a more or less

+poisonous effect on those who eat them. The people themselves say it is

+the feed they find there which makes them poisonous, but it may be

+inherent in the nature of the particular fish. I remember on many

+occasions on board the _Southern Cross_, the natives looking askance at

+some very tempting looking fish which had been caught, and pronouncing

+them dangerous to eat. On one very memorable occasion, when dinner was

+over, one of the senior boys being cook, and one of the most poisonous

+of fish having been served and partaken of by all, this youth without a

+change of feature saying to some remark that was passed, “Oh! Yes, we

+die in our country if we eat that fish.” This was reassuring after what

+had passed, and we eyed one another with wistful and anxious faces,

+thinking whether or not perchance our end may have been hastened by our

+wilful inadvertence in thus partaking of deadly poison. But we neither

+swelled, nor fell down dead, and felt no ill effects. Many a time, too,

+since, I have eaten the same fish with the like happy and successful

+result. This particular kind of eel, however, has played the same _post

+mortem_ tricks before, and taken his revenge for wrongs received before

+going into the oven. The people tell me that those who have eaten, have

+become like mummies, their hair and skin have changed to a ghastly

+leaden hue, and have fallen off like a snake’s skin. How far this is

+true or fable, I know not, but it may be partially credible. Nothing of

+the sort has happened fortunately, at this present crisis, and the

+sufferers are about again.

+

+A dull, dark evening ushered in a blustery, rough night, and the coughs

+and sneezings and other demonstrative sounds peculiar to people who do

+not carry pocket handkerchiefs, bore testimony to the fact of an

+epidemic catarrh, contracted during a very inclement week. Like the

+Norfolk Islanders, they look for the source of such things in the world

+without, and accuse my friend Mr. Blackburne of having brought it here,

+all the way from Queensland. In what part of his luggage he secreted so

+desirable a communication I know not, but they are decidedly of opinion

+that he it was who ‘gave them’ the cold, and they were unwise enough to

+‘catch it’ from him. He ‘had’ the cold, they said, when he came here,

+and certainly said I, I believe he took it away again. However, as colds

+are catching, I suppose they must be left content with their belief, and

+to ‘bless him,’ I hope, every time they sneeze.

+

+

+_Wednesday, September 1st._--Another full month past and gone, and

+leaving I fear, but a poor memory of much good done behind it. The days

+here certainly fly past one after another in rapid flight, and the very

+monotony of existence speeds their departure. One day is so like another

+that it passes unmarkedly by, and one finds oneself, all at once, at the

+end of the week, and is brought to final consciousness of the rapid

+rotation of time’s wheels at the end of the month. What has been done in

+the month? I fear there is but a poor record. God grant that I myself

+may have, by His Grace, made one step forward, and have been

+instrumental in leading others also onward to a higher and better life,

+and to that final epoch where the flight of time is unmarked by days and

+weeks and months and years, for time itself will be swallowed up in

+eternity.

+

+Nothing much happened to-day. A bright morning seemed likely to usher in

+a fine and brilliant day, but in the forenoon the rain pelted down, and

+for some hours we had a glorious downpour. The “blue bottles” gave

+indication of this at Prayers and morning school, and I have never known

+them in such numbers or so troublesome. One perfectly loathed oneself,

+but escape from them was impossible, they crowded my house, which is

+generally free from their incursions, and the poor people seemed quite

+distracted. This is the great yam planting season, and everyone was away

+after school busy at his garden. The heavy rain, however, drove them

+home, and some took refuge here with me. Natives are not great hands for

+introducing originality into their conversation, nor do they go much

+beyond the sight of their eyes, or the hearing of their ears for their

+subject matter. Any prominent object which attracts their attention is

+made the subject of remark. This is a specimen of the sort of

+conversation which goes on. I was writing when my friends came in, “Oh!

+you are writing!” “Yes, what else did you suppose I should be doing with

+pen, ink and paper?” “Oh! this is a curious tin, what is in it? Meat?”

+“You are the 101st person who has asked that self-same question, I

+answered the 100 before you with the monosyllabic negative, No, and I

+give you the same answer.” “What then is in it? Fish?” “No.” “Fruit?”

+“Yes, I hope you are satisfied.” “Oh! I see you have a “kove” (native

+flute) up there in the thatch, who gave it you?” “You yourself have

+asked that same question ten times before, and I have always given the

+same answer, ‘Arthur,’ next time perhaps you will know without asking.”

+“You have a bow and arrow there, where did you get them?” “Considering

+that every person in the village knows from whence they came, and has

+made them the subject of general conversation for weeks, I wonder you

+should be the only person ignorant of their origin, especially as you

+were here when I brought them from Tasmouri.” This is the style of thing

+which goes on, and except that one is glad to accede to any means for

+introducing conversation, one would soon weary of it. They themselves do

+not seem to mind going over and over again the same conversation, and

+wading through the same minutiæ of detail, and they expect one to be

+equally patient. The rain gave me a good opportunity of planting my new

+fence, and I planted, as a start, a number of oranges around my house.

+The evening was fine, and the moon already quite sizeable. We had the

+usual singing school after Prayers, with very good success. When the

+practice was over, I asked the older men to sing some of their own

+songs, and they readily complied. Old blind Daniel is the great leader,

+and knows all the songs. There are three parts to the native song, (1)

+the person who starts and sings the air as in a Gregorian tone, and then

+follows (2) a chorus, then (3) a single voice takes up the air again,

+and this is followed by the chorus. The first singer is said to “tau”

+the song, the second to “sawu,” and the chorus to “lai.” The songs are

+very pretty, and they kept them up with spirit for quite an hour. Some

+of the singers beat a weird kind of accompaniment with bamboos, and kept

+most excellent time. When the performance was over, it was time to

+retire, and soon quietness warned me that it was time for me, too, to be

+going to rest.

+

+

+_Thursday, September 2nd._--How the days seem to chase one another in

+ever too hasty flight! It seems no sooner morning than the night is here

+again. We tried the experiment to-day of having prayers even earlier

+than usual, to be rid of the noxious blue bottles, but only partially

+succeeded in anything like freedom from them. At the school subsequently

+they were more troublesome, I think, than ever, and it was not an easy

+matter to keep one’s own or one’s pupils’ attention, with these hideous

+creatures buzzing about. After Prayers and school one is fairly ready

+for breakfast, and by the time that is over the day has already worn on

+towards Noon.

+

+It is the commencement of planting time now, and the people are very

+busy day after day in their yam gardens preparing the soil. It is by no

+means easy work, and they certainly make a very good show by the end of

+the day.

+

+I always like to get out somewhere if I can every day, for I find my

+health is better for the constant out-door exercise. This morning the

+people were all going shrimping, and I accepted an invitation to go with

+them to a place called ‘Niewotu.’ I had never been there before, and I

+was charmed with the picturesque beauty of it. A clear, flowing river is

+utilized for the purpose of irrigation, and there one saw again the

+quaint little taro beds so deftly laid out, and the showy crotons and

+dracænas ornamenting the immediate view, while all round the bush was

+thickly matted with innumerable, and almost impenetrable creepers with

+masses of white and pink flowers. In the direct foreground one got a

+peep of the bright blue sea sparkling in the midday heat. A bathe, and

+green cocoanuts were very agreeable and most refreshing. The boon of

+abundance of water in these hot countries is inestimable, and this

+island is rich in its water supply. Araga again on the other hand is

+very badly off, and Opa not much better.

+

+Evening duties as usual, and some hymn singing afterwards.

+

+

+_Saturday, September 4th._--After Prayers and breakfast, the boys and I

+started for a long meditated journey up the coast. It was a most

+glorious day, but very hot, the sun scorching down with pitiless heat.

+We embarked at Kerepei, sixteen of us all told, and rowed away against

+the Trade wind which was blowing strong down the coast. We were a merry

+party, and the shore view was very beautiful as we coasted along. From

+the point of embarkation to Tanrowo, a distance of eight or ten miles,

+there is not a single “salt water” native, and it seems a great pity to

+see so much valuable land lying fallow, when it might be utilised for

+almost any purpose. As we rounded the Point between us and Tanrowo,

+called “Vaturowa,” we saw a vessel at anchor in the distance. The heat

+on the water was intense, and I felt myself being scorched about the

+face and hands. The natives, hatless and clotheless, did not seem to

+mind it, and their exuberant spirits were proof against almost any outer

+evil. We saw some people along the coast, and conversed with them at

+several places. Arriving at “Beitarara,” we saw a number of people we

+knew. We of course asked about the “schooner” at anchor, and they said

+they did not know what she was, as she had only just a short time before

+come to her anchorage. However, the boat painted red was coming towards

+us, and soon we were within speaking distance. I asked where she was

+from, and what was her errand. As they came close to us, I heard my name

+called, and found myself shaking hands with Captain Martin of the

+schooner “Idaho” from Noumea. I met him years ago when he was in charge

+of the “John S. Lane,” Captain McCleod owner, and he very kindly then

+towed me across from Opa to Pentecost Island. He seemed very glad to see

+me, and invited me on board. He now belongs to the “Nouvelles Hebrides”

+Company, and was recruiting labour for “Port Sandwich” in Mallicollo.

+The Company had bought land here at “Beitarara,” and he just dropped in

+to see the people. He was very kind and amiable, and I spent some time

+on board, and made some purchases.

+

+The boat then started for our destination, where we found many amiable,

+friendly people awaiting us, and although they had sold their land, they

+had very hazy notions as to how much had been purchased, or what was to

+be done with it. After spending some time with them, we gave them some

+presents, and then found it was time to be getting homeward. A strong

+favourable breeze took us rapidly to the Kerepei. Arriving at “Ruosi,”

+we found a large number of our people awaiting us, with a smoking hot

+supper they had cooked for us there. We arrived here tired and sunburnt

+just before dark. Evensong followed, and a singing practice for Sunday.

+

+

+_Sunday, September 5th._--School very early on account of the blue

+bottles. I took all the old men into the Church and talked to them

+there. They paid good attention, and I hope remembered something of what

+they were taught. I tried to explain how God declared His Almighty Power

+most chiefly in showing mercy and pity. There were times when He

+revealed Himself as a consuming fire, but that was in His attitude

+towards sin, but the whole being and essence of God was love. After

+breakfast I started with Patrick for “Mandurvat” by way of “Naruru.”

+Anthony had already had Morning Prayer, so I did not stay long there,

+but pushed on for my destination. It was very hot walking, and I was

+very liquid when I arrived at Mandurvat. Sunday travelling here is much

+more tiring than week-day work, for you are obliged to respect the day a

+little, as regards the clothing you wear. I had not a very large

+congregation, and when service was over I asked the reason. The people

+then told me that a certain man called “Ala” had “tabu’d” (_i.e._ made

+sacred) the school, and prevented the people of his village from

+attending service. I protested against this, and when I had said my say,

+the plucky young teacher “Tarione” at once went to the village, and

+broke the “tabu,” rendering himself liable to a fine of pigs or perhaps

+a knock on the head. “Ala” was not at home or I would have gone to see

+him. However, I believe Tarione did all I could do, and perhaps more. I

+was very much pleased with the way some of the scholars had been taught,

+and two females especially, took me quite by surprise. These people have

+no baptized teacher, and the efficiency of the school is entirely owing

+to the exertion and perseverance of two young men, Tarione

+aforementioned and “Livotari.” The latter requested Baptism for himself,

+wife and child, and Tarione has previously expressed the same wish. Now

+that the tabu is taken off, or at least broken, no doubt the scholars

+will increase, but it reflects great credit on these young fellows that

+they have built the school themselves, taught themselves to read, and do

+their best to teach their people. They are a most friendly, good-natured

+people, and act up to their limited light and knowledge. They have

+prayers and school every day, and this is very wonderful, when one

+considers the few advantages they have had. “Masa,” the leading man of

+the district, was present at the service, and was very enthusiastic in

+the after conversation. They gave us a sumptuous luncheon of various

+kinds of “loko,” and we started for Tanrig when the sun’s rays began

+somewhat to decline. At “Naruru” we stopped some time, and I addressed

+the people. Anthony afterwards came on with me to Tanrig. Here, in the

+evening, I preached on the subject of the Gospel, the Pharisee and the

+Publican, and tried to adduce some healthful lessons from the parable.

+We were somewhat inclined by nature to think more highly of ourselves

+than we ought to think, and not to be sober and humble in our self

+consideration. Because we attended service regularly, and were very

+accurate in our daily lives, we were apt to despise others around us,

+who were not so exact, and were still living heathen lives. When we came

+before God, our thought ought not to be of our own worthiness or

+goodness in His sight, still less of the depravity and wickedness of

+others, but our attitude and our language should be that of our own

+utter unworthiness and sinfulness, we should imitate the action and

+adopt the words of the Publican rather than that of the Pharisee, and

+smite our breasts and say, “God be merciful to me a sinner.” What we

+sought from all our services was to go down to our houses justified, and

+the only road to justification and righteousness was humility. That was

+the only road for white and black people alike, for teacher and taught,

+for Priest and people. How many of us would be justified that night? How

+many of us were growing day by day in grace, and in the knowledge of

+our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ?

+

+

+_Monday, September 6th._--Captain Martin had kindly offered to tow me

+and my boat’s crew across to Opa if I could manage to be ready. He would

+come down and anchor at Kerepei, and fire a gun as a signal for me. The

+gun went, but I was not ready, and after breakfast I went down to tell

+him so. Being a French ship they kept French hours, and I found a second

+breakfast awaiting me on board. Twelve people had recruited at Tanrowo,

+and all had been bought with snider rifles, and plenty of ammunition.

+French and English recruiting laws are very different. Vessels from

+Queensland and Fiji are not allowed to give guns or ammunition to the

+natives, but the French do just as they like. While I was on board,

+another silly female was recruited. In one of her humours she had run

+away from her husband, and had come a distance of twelve or fifteen

+miles, to be engaged for three years as the slave and tool of some

+depraved Frenchman on one of the island stations. I could say nothing,

+although I knew the result of the embarkation. However, the Captain

+promised me that he would call again at the place, and see the woman’s

+friends, and if they consented to her going, he would keep her and pay

+for her, but if not, she should be put on shore again. How far or how

+truly he will carry out his promise I do not know, but he is a tender

+hearted and, I think, an upright man in his dealings with the natives.

+As soon as I was ashore, he lifted his anchor and went up the coast, but

+I have not yet heard what he did. He was very kind to our boys, and gave

+them several tins of meat and biscuits. We made a fire at Ruosi, and

+there they cooked their dinner, while after a bathe I came home. In the

+evening it rained very hard, and just before the bell went for Prayers,

+our congregation was therefore not so large as usual, and our numbers

+thinner at school. I was very tired, and went early to bed.

+

+

+_Wednesday, September 7th._--Very heavy rain during the night succeeded

+this morning by a northerly wind, and a hot, close, oppressive day. I

+have not felt it so warm since I have been here, and I was glad that my

+duties kept me at home, and mostly in doors all the day. Nothing here

+seems possible to be done without a feast and a dance, and all work was

+postponed to-day to do my new fence the honour of having a supper

+prepared for it. Any excuse for eating and dancing. The women were kept

+busy at the ovens cooking, and the men away at the seaside endeavouring

+to get a meal of fish, seemingly the choicest compliment possible to be

+paid to the exterior decoration of my house. The fence making certainly

+was a most laborious business, and the result, if not strikingly

+beautiful, has the advantage of being strong and durable, and hitherto

+pig-proof.

+

+The men returned in the afternoon with about thirty nice fish, which

+were at once consigned to the oven, and in the evening the feast was

+spread here in front of my house, and the whole village assembled to

+partake. Grace was said, and the huge quantities of food distributed,

+and eaten with very evident relish. Postprandial grace having been said,

+the company dispersed, and soon all the festal remnants, too,

+disappeared. The evening was one of the most glorious I have ever seen,

+and I sat outside my house for a long time talking with the people. Many

+were prevented attending by reason of sickness, and our numbers at

+Prayers and school were not so full as usual. After school a dance was

+proposed, but did not come off. Instead thereof, a few of the men came

+and serenaded me, very quietly and softly, and much more in consonance

+with my feelings than the noisy songs and clappings of the dance. It was

+one of those nights in which it was a “shame to go to bed,” but tired

+nature seeks repose, and soon the village was sunk in silent slumber.

+

+

+_Wednesday, September 8th._--Another most glorious morning followed by a

+very hot and ennervating day. After our morning duties here, public and

+private, I went with some of the boys to Ruosi. It was very pleasant

+there by the water side, and one got a perfect freedom from the blue

+bottles, which invaded my house in such numbers, this morning, that I

+had to retire. The discomfort of these loathsome creatures is excessive,

+and one gets away from them as far as possible. Not having had a washing

+day for some days, I made one to-day, and myself turned washerwoman. The

+one idea of natives with respect to clothes washing, is to pile on the

+soap agony, and leave your garments as stiff as a board, and almost as

+uncomfortable to wear. I entrusted a pair of white flannel trowsers, and

+a white flannel coat to one of the boys to wash, but I tremble to think

+what the result will be. On our way homeward we were stopped by loud

+“cooes” from the rear rank, and Patrick came running forward to say

+“They are here.” Soon a white hat appeared, and I fancied at once it

+must be the “Southern Cross,” but wondered why she had come so quickly.

+

+However, I was soon undeceived, and was greeted by Mr. Coates,

+Government Agent of the “Lord of the Isles” from Fiji. He was

+photographing the Falls, and the boys brought him on here. He was very

+amiable, and followed me on to the village. He took three views of

+different parts of the place, and after staying a short time returned

+again to the ship as night was rapidly approaching. It is so seldom that

+a white man ventures up here, that the sight of one is a seven days’

+wonder. He came quite unarmed, and was evidently not frightened by the

+ferocity of our people. It is customary to look upon natives as

+naturally wild and ferocious, and few white men trust themselves among

+them without arms. However, of course we always go armed with a Power

+more protective than a Colt’s revolver, and we, I suppose, engender

+trust in the natives by trusting them.

+

+The “Lord of the Isles” is a large ship of 300 tons, and has brought

+over two hundred natives from Fiji as returned labour.

+

+Mr. Coates told me that the Conservative Government was in power with

+Lord R. Churchill as Premier, and that the English Government had sent

+an ultimatum to the French to withdraw their troops from the New

+Hebrides, or their action in sending them there would be looked upon as

+a breach of faith and an act of aggression. There will be troubles down

+here yet I fear, with all the shilly-shallying there is over the

+annexation of these islands. The French are evidently intending some

+forward step, for they have troops both in Havannah Harbour, and Port

+Sandwich (Mallicollo), and the Nouvelles-Hebrides Company are buying

+land right and left all over these islands. It would not be pleasant to

+find myself a prisoner in France instead of a free man in England, and I

+hope there may be no fear of such a criterion.

+

+Our evening duties as usual ended with singing.

+

+

+_Thursday, September 9th._--Another most glorious morning, and a bright

+warm day. My home duties kept me here till far on in the day, when I

+joined a large picnic party at Ruosi. Certainly these natives take life

+easily, and in their own way get a good deal of enjoyment out of it.

+They seem utterly devoid of that care and worry which kills so many of

+us, and certainly follow the Scripture injunction as to taking no

+anxious thought. Nature affords them all they want for their bodily

+comfort, and I trust religion supplies the rest. It is perfectly

+wonderful how far more merry and light hearted they are than their

+heathen neighbours, and I fondly hope the secret is within, such jolly,

+amiable, good-natured creatures they are, and so happy and friendly and

+harmonious among themselves. The sportsmen to the number of twelve or

+fifteen went off in search of wild fowl, or any other of the feathered

+tribe they might come across, the cooks setting to work to get the oven

+alight and start the cooking. Prawns were caught in abundance, and were

+eaten with roasted taro, as a sort of lunch, and green cocoanuts were

+secured as the refreshing beverage. It was an animated and picturesque

+scene, and in the evening the sportsmen returned with five fowls and one

+owl, an odd looking object, as the result of their day’s sport. These

+birds were soon consigned to the oven with the other food, and were

+partaken of in the evening. I came away beforehand and had my dinner

+here. It was a most gloriously still and beautiful evening and the

+native songs sung by the boys coming home, sounded very pretty in the

+distance. There seems to have been an exuberant joyous spirit about

+to-day, animating everyone, and never since I have been here, have I

+known so hearty and bright a service as we had this evening.

+

+After school most of the boys and younger men went to “Unduna,” a

+_suburb_ of Tanrig, to a great dance, which is to be kept up till

+morning light. The occasion of it is the ‘nasu’ing of two gamals

+to-morrow, and nothing can be done without a dance. Arthur, who has

+neither the strength nor the inclination to go, has been keeping me

+company, and we have had some nice and profitable conversation. He has

+left me now, and in the stillness of the most glorious night, the song

+of the dancers breaks upon one’s ear, and makes one conscious that one

+is in the Melanesian Islands. Besides that one sound, nothing else is

+audible, and I myself am going to prepare for the quiet and rest of my

+humble couch.

+

+

+_Saturday, September 11th._--Started this morning after breakfast for

+Tasmate by boat, and saw a vessel heading in for the watering place.

+This was the _Southern Cross_ from the islands, and before long she came

+to anchor and we were on board shaking hands. We were somewhat surprised

+to see the Bishop, but he was not well and was going for the change to

+Norfolk Island. None of the party on board looked very well, but they

+were going South and would soon feel the benefit of the colder weather.

+Mr. Turnbull came back with me and spent the night here. After service I

+held a consultation with the teachers as to Arthur’s going to Norfolk

+Island, and they were unanimous that he ought to go. A. P. Huqe offered

+to stay in his place. The vessel was much earlier than I expected her,

+but none too early. The news generally, very good.

+

+There were five earthquake shocks to-day, one of which was very severe,

+felt equally on shore and at sea. The Captain fancied the ship was on a

+rock.

+

+

+_Monday, September 13th._--Yesterday I spent at Tanrig. Mr. Turnbull

+slept the night with me, and spent the whole of Sunday. We had school in

+the early morning and after that, breakfast. Then followed Morning

+Prayer with a very large congregation. In the afternoon Mr. Comins, Mr.

+Plant, Mr. Brittain, the Captain, Engineer, and a large number of

+Melanesians came up to see the village and stayed to our social meal in

+the evening. They were all quite charmed with the people and the place,

+and enjoyed very much the pleasant walk. Mr. Turnbull took his

+departure, and Mr. Brittain spent the night with me. The party, with the

+exception of Mr. Comins, were not successful on the return journey and

+missing the track got into the taro gardens, and floundered about in the

+mud in the most helpless confusion. Not finding a way out of their

+difficulty they tried back, and hit happily upon the right track. This

+little episode threw somewhat of a damper upon the visit, and the party

+returned rather wet and crestfallen to the ship. Mr. Comins was accused

+of being the cause of the misfortune, and I believe those who fared

+worse than he heaped their approbrium on him when they got on board. The

+Bishop was not well, and we were all disappointed not to see him at our

+head quarters. Naturally, a visit from our Bishop is looked upon as a

+red letter day by our people, and if he cannot come the disappointment

+is very apparent. Mr. Brittain and I dined together and spent a most

+pleasant evening. It was a most glorious evening, and the calm peace of

+a cloudless sunset gave place to the most brilliant moonlight. We sat

+outside the house talking to the people until Prayer time. The service

+was a very impressive one, for I got Arthur to say a few words to his

+people before leaving them, and the thought of going away raised a great

+lump in his throat, and for some moments, although generally so ready

+and so eloquent, he could not say a word. Several times there was a

+tremble in his voice and he was nigh to breaking down, and his own

+undisguisable emotion produced a visible effect on his congregation. He

+said in the course of his remarks, that to-day they had seen a great

+concourse of people at their village, of many colours and nationalities.

+But though divided by race, differing in speech, and separated in

+locality, they were all one people with them, because through Christ

+they were all united in one, owning one God and Father of all, believing

+one Common Saviour, knit together by one Spirit, and professing one

+religion. Though so many and so various we were all one in Christ. And

+then he went on to speak of himself and them, still carrying on the same

+idea, and he said that although divided in bodily presence, unseen by

+the bodily eye, and separated by the wide ocean, they were still one in

+spirit and in heart. Oceans could not separate those whom God had joined

+together, and whether near or far they were still all one in Christ. And

+then almost overcome, he said it might be God’s will that they should

+never again see each others’ faces, but they must look forward to the

+great meeting time beyond the grave, where parting would again be

+unknown, and those whom Christ had joined together, and made one in

+Himself should be one for ever with Him and behold His glory. Because

+they were going to be separated it was no reason that they should forget

+each other, but day by day they should remember each other at the Throne

+of Grace, until such time as they should be reunited in this world, or

+if not, in the world to come. I followed with a few remarks, and a very

+impressive service concluded with the Blessing. After the service I

+called the teachers together to make final arrangements for our

+departure to-morrow, and Patrick was quite content to take charge of the

+school. I am very glad that he should, and I quite feel that the extra

+responsibility will be good for him.

+

+Arthur Huqe will go with me to Opa for the change, and return again with

+me when the ship comes back from Norfolk Island. Two Maewo lads have

+expressed a wish to go with us to Opa, and I am very glad of any

+exchange of friendship between the two islands. It will do them good to

+see other places, and enlarge their minds and ideas to see other people

+beside themselves. Moreover, being with Arthur, a native of Opa, they

+will not feel so lonely as if going by themselves. They are two nice

+boys, and I hope they will profit by the little outing.

+

+Mr. Brittain’s enthusiasm was quite cheering, and we were very late in

+getting to bed, being so busy talking over our mutual work, inasmuch as

+our district is one, and he knows the people here so well.

+

+This morning we were astir very early, and after Prayers and breakfast

+were very busy getting ready for our departure. Many hands made light

+work, and soon our impedimenta were shouldered by willing bearers, and

+we were on our way for the Kerepei. We had a most pleasant walk down,

+Mr. Brittain most cheery and appreciative all the way, and we were all

+on board very soon after the stipulated time, 10 o’clock. We had a

+light wind to start with, but it soon fell calm, and the engineer’s

+services were called into requisition. It is very hot work steaming in

+these latitudes, and the cabin especially gets very stuffy. We anchored

+at Opa between five and six o’clock, and I got my things ready for the

+start ashore in daylight. Mr. Brittain and Mr. Turnbull came with me,

+and we visited the French Trader ashore, who was said to have the latest

+telegrams. We were quite astonished, not only at the polite manner in

+which we were received, but by the neat and tastey appearance of the

+little man’s premises and dwelling house. He is evidently a man of

+considerable genius, and far more energy than most of the Traders down

+in these parts.

+

+His kitchen garden was a sight to behold, and although for three months

+he has had no rain he has an abundance of cabbages, carrots, onions,

+shalots, garlick, parsley, spinnach, lettuce, &c. The whole garden too

+is laid out in the most natty matter, showing wonderful care and

+perseverance. Inside his house it was equally neat, and the walls were

+decorated with an enormous number of island curiosities. During the

+slack time of the year when cocoanuts are scarce he makes very curious,

+but extremely chaste, ornaments out of shells, and sells them to Traders

+at about fifteen shillings the pair. He also makes sleeve links out of

+opercules, and many other ornaments of personal adornment. He gave us a

+great basket full of eggs, and some green food for the ship. We bade the

+amiable and loquacious little man good-bye, and thanked him for his

+kindness, and then pushed on for Tavalavola where we found the whole

+village waiting for us, and Charles and Monica heading the party. I was

+most pleased to see the happy and affectionate relations which existed

+between them, and the natural and unaffected way in which she came into

+my house, and the kind care she exhibited in the bestowal of my goods

+and chattels. Afterwards when we went off to the ship she came with us,

+and went down of her own accord to see the Bishop in the cabin. We did

+not stay long on board, but bidding farewell to them all we came ashore

+for the night. I should have liked of course to stay till morning, but

+they were so crowded on board I thought it was better we were out of the

+way. It was near midnight when we finally retired for the night, and I

+was very tired and glad to get to bed. The boys are so nice and

+friendly, and come in and out of my house so naturally, that it gives

+one quite a homely feeling, and when they call me “Mama” (Father) I feel

+quite proud of the spiritual relationship. I quite look forward to my

+stay here, and I hope under it God may be the means of much good.

+

+

+_Tuesday, September 14th._--Most beautiful morning, but the night was

+very cold, and I was very glad of a blanket over me. We had Prayers and

+school before breakfast, the scholars numbering about 50 of both sexes.

+I was quite astonished at the admirable way most of them read and

+answered, and equally struck with the diligent and painstaking manner in

+which the boys were teaching. The school is admirably conducted, and

+peculiarly well and thoroughly taught. The scholars are evidently very

+sharp, and one or two little boys and a very little wee girl read

+surprisingly well. Charles, the head teacher, is a most steady and

+excellent young fellow, and to him the credit of the efficiency of the

+school is mainly due. All the other boys however, work well and steadily

+with him, and I was particularly gratified to see what a helpmeet his

+wife Monica is to him. In the course of the day the older people were

+about, and I told them I wanted them to come and get instruction also,

+to which they consented. While I was at breakfast the French Trader

+called on me and brought me a most noble present of green food, for

+which I was deeply grateful. He was very amiable, most polite and

+peculiarly loquacious, and I was quite interested in listening to his

+broken English. He is a Parisian and was in the ‘garde mobile’ during

+the siege by the Prussians, which of course means that he is a

+Communist. He left me after a time, and I set to work to put my house in

+order. The boys went to ‘Tahi mamavi,’ where we have a school, which I

+hope we shall be able now to teach regularly. Meramaeto (Paskal) had

+been there living, but some trouble broke out and he had to come away in

+consequence. Now all is pacific again, and we hope to make another fresh

+and vigorous start, which I hope will be permanent. In the afternoon I

+went to see a Trader who had sent me a request to visit him, not having

+a boat of his own. His complaint was, that having a Frenchman on either

+side of him, and he doing a better trade than either they were jealous

+of him, and had threatened him with violence if he did not leave. He is

+a Scotchman and a very decent fellow. The Frenchmen had threatened also

+to lay hands on his copra, looking on him as an interloper, inasmuch as

+they suppose the French are about to annex the New Hebrides group. I did

+all I could to explain his position to the natives, and ‘Tabi’ the

+chief, and really a big man, said that while he dealt fairly with them

+he would see that he was properly protected and fairly dealt with. I

+told him that he and I were subjects of one Queen, and of a different

+nationality to the Frenchmen, and that being a steady and well-behaved

+and honest man he ought to help him all he could. He had a great many

+nuts, and a large amount of copra, and I should say he was doing very

+well. He does not trade with powder, or guns, or spirit, and is

+evidently a very temperate man. He asked me to tell the natives not to

+bring the coconuts on Sunday as he wanted that as a day of Rest, and he

+asked me if I could make it convenient to come and see him sometimes on

+that day, because he wished not to forget his God in the midst of his

+mundane pursuits. He has been a sailor all his life, and has a mate’s

+certificate, I think. He has only been here five weeks from Sydney, and

+hitherto has done very well. I got back to dinner, and then went to see

+David, one of our teachers, who is sick. He was very full of his child,

+about three years old, a perfect prodigy. He told me the child would get

+into a perfect frenzy if he were not allowed to go to school and

+Prayers, and when once or twice he has been left at home he has knelt

+down in their house and gone through the form of prayer by himself. He

+will never go without his clothes, and the only time they can get him to

+take them off is to bathe. Even at night he must have on a garment. His

+mother told me too that his first thought in the morning, even before

+eating, was the bell, and he would tug at her sleeve until she took him

+up and started for the school. The same was the case too, in the

+evening. They also told me of a poor girl who had died about a fortnight

+ago. She has been most regular at school for years past, and was far

+away ahead of all the others in knowledge. She never would marry because

+she was afraid she should be debarred from attending school. She was

+most anxious to be Baptized, and when she was taken ill she still longed

+for Baptism. She importuned Charles so on the subject that just before

+her death, he sprinkled her with water in the Name of the Trinity, and

+signed the sign of the Cross on her forehead. She died perfectly happy

+and at peace, and her devoted life and peaceful death have produced a

+great and profound impression in the village.

+

+While talking with David, his old grandmother came in, and she is a

+woman of great age, and marvellous energy. She is now a great

+grandmother, and a bright, cheery old lady. I asked her how old she

+thought she was, and she said she really did not know, but she was very

+aged. She said that I had always told her that she “tugi vetu” (was as

+hard as flint) and it seemed as if she really was. She comes regularly

+to school, but her eyes are so dim that she can only sit and listen.

+Several old ladies attend school only to sit and listen, and they take

+great interest in coming. In the evening we had Prayers, and a very nice

+school afterwards.

+

+So ends my first day, and I hope all the other days I am here may be as

+pleasant and as happy.

+

+

+_Wednesday, September 15th._--A beautiful morning but a strong Trade

+wind blowing. After our morning duties here we sailed down to ‘Lobaha’

+to see Arudale, Didi and the school there. We pulled the boat up on the

+beach, no very easy work with the sand so soft. Most of the boys were

+down at the beach and we all went up together to the village. It was a

+hot, steep climb and we were very liquid when we got there. The boys

+brought us a plentiful supply of young coconuts and with these we

+quenched our thirst. I was glad to see the amiability which was

+manifested one towards another by our people and the Lobaha folks, for

+lately the relations have been somewhat strained.

+

+It appears that not long ago, the chief wife of our Head man took

+offence at his scolding her, and ran away to his younger brother who

+lives at Lobaha. Our great man was very fond of this wife, for they had

+grown up together from childhood, and she had always presided over his

+establishment in a most devoted manner. She is most queenly in

+deportment, and quite one of the finest native women I have ever seen.

+However, she went off, and “Virclumlum” was not only incensed, but very

+sorely grieved. He told the boys in most pathetic words how he missed

+his wife, how that it seemed unbearable to do without her, how that

+everything seemed void and empty now that she was away. However, once

+away it seems she was away for good, and very soon a pig arrived and

+that he had to accept in lieu of her. For a long time the people here

+have never been to Lobaha and contrariwise the Lobaha people here.

+However, we have, I hope, broken the ice again, although I am

+particularly sorry to lose so nice a woman from the place, and I believe

+she has deeply repented already of her conduct and would give worlds to

+be back again. I was glad to see a new school in course of erection, and

+the old men and women told me they were only waiting for it to be

+finished to all coming to school. Herbert has already a nice little

+building at his own place, but the people say it is too far away, and

+any excuse is enough to keep people away from religious duties. Herbert

+shewed me with manifest pride, the most beautiful tool chest sent by his

+English “mother” (Miss Mount). He has been trying to use the tools, and

+I saw an attempt at some amount of straightness in the new building at

+which he was assisting. We stayed some time with him, talking over

+matters in connection with the school, &c., and then we made

+preparations for home. The wind was blowing strong down the coast, so

+that a sail was useless, and we had a heavy pull. However, the boys are

+very good oarsmen, and we got along famously. I anchored the boat off

+for the night, having use for her again to-morrow. It was a very

+miserable evening, the wind blowing in strong gusts, and the threatened

+rain falling at short intervals. We had Prayers and a very long

+interesting school afterwards. The boys and girls here are very sharp,

+and learn very rapidly, and seem to understand well what they read.

+There are three classes of Catechumens preparing for Baptism, adults,

+boys and girls, all more or less proficient. Altogether, this school is

+very cheering, and with such an excellent head teacher as Charles, one

+need not fear of its stability.

+

+

+_Thursday, September 16th._--After our morning duties were over here we

+rowed up to “Lo tahi mamavi,” and had school there with a large number

+of people, who were very enthusiastic to know more and to be regularly

+taught.

+

+There are a nice lot of boys here, and some already know how to read.

+The old men I had school with, and they seemed quite delighted to say

+the letters one by one, and afterwards to put them together, and find

+out that they made Opa words. I told them as far as I could about our

+religion, and that I had left home, and all to come and live with them

+and teach them, but that Jesus Christ pitied and loved us so much that

+He left heaven, and His Father’s glory to come down into our world to

+live and die for us. They were very attentive, and asked me to come

+again, which I promised to do on Sunday, all being well. They gave us a

+handsome present of food according to native custom, and we left for

+home. It was raining heavily and we got very wet, but the distance was

+not very great. It was a most unpleasant evening, and I was cold and

+miserable, and I began to fear ague again. Last night was most wretched,

+my house was not properly finished, and the strong gusts of wind blew me

+almost out of bed, and brought in clouds of dust. To-day the boys have

+been patching up the holes, and it is more snug and comfortable.

+

+

+_Friday, September 17th._--Fine morning and very close and hot after the

+rain. After breakfast I received a visit from an English Trader, who

+lives about two miles from me. Poor fellow, in my honour he had put on a

+coat, and he was literally running with perspiration when he reached my

+house, and he did not succeed in getting cool again before he left

+although he stayed some time. He seems to be doing a very fair trade

+here in copra, and although he has not been long on the island, he has

+already several tons of the dried coconut (copra). After he left I was

+attacked with a good-for-nothing fit and did nothing all day. In the

+evening I was very queer, and thought I was going to have rheumatism, my

+legs were so cold and my limbs generally so frail. However I managed

+Evensong and school, and was not sorry to be ready early for bed.

+

+

+_Saturday, September 18th._--General holiday here. The boys wished me to

+take them to Vuinago, fishing, to which I rashly consented. It was a

+perfectly windless day and, oh! so hot. We had a long weary pull up, but

+were very successful when we got there, and came home late in the

+evening with about eighty fish. I was very glad to be able to send ten

+to the French Trader, as a return for all his many kindnesses to me, the

+rest were divided out to different great people, and about thirty were

+kept for to-morrow’s dinner. I was very glad the boys did not forget the

+women in their distribution. I had a nice fish for my own tea, a kind of

+mackarel. Very soon after dinner it was Prayer time, and I am now

+preparing for bed being very tired, sunburnt, and sleepy.

+

+The boys are having great fun over the way, and it is evident the outing

+has not had much ill effect on their spirits.

+

+

+_Sunday, September 19th._--Yesterday was perfectly calm and cloudless,

+and to-day again it is blowing very hard, with rain squalls at

+intervals. We began the day with school, and then after an interval for

+breakfast we had Mattins with a fair congregation. The females are very

+enthusiastic and attend very regularly, and the same applies to the

+boys, but the older men are very callous. There are one or two who never

+miss, but the majority are much more concerned with the affairs of this

+world, than about the one thing needful. There are one or two old

+fellows who are very regular, and who seem really to like being taught,

+but most of the men prefer the free and careless life to which they have

+always been accustomed. There are many who feel the beauty of

+Christianity, but it is so hard to them to practise it. They think it

+is all right for boys and women, but they themselves cannot stand the

+bother and burden it entails.

+

+After Prayers we went up to “Tahi mamavi” and found the whole population

+awaiting us. We divided them into five sets, two of boys, one of youths,

+and two of old men. Charles and I taught the old men, and found them

+very attentive. Walter Tarigisibue addressed the youths who seemed

+appreciative, and Paschal and Peter taught the boys who were said to

+learn very quickly. They asked us to fix a day for coming again, and

+said they should expect us every Sunday. I had been feeling sick and

+queer all day, and coming home was violently sick in the boat. I got

+home as quickly as possible, but the sickness continued, accompanied by

+ague, and afterwards strong fever headache, and then strong

+perspiration, and this morning, (Monday) convalescence.

+

+However, I am very washed out and good for nothing, and shall rest at

+home. I am disappointed however, for I meant to have gone to the other

+side of the island in the boat, and had made all my preparations. Now I

+must wait a bit.

+

+

+_Tuesday, September 21st._--Reasonably convalescent again, but weak and

+not fit for much. It was a most unpleasant day however, with fitful

+squalls of rain and wind, and I could not have gone far even if I had

+wanted. The boys were busy planting “Virelumlum’s” yam garden, and were

+kept hard at work all day. I was not surprised, for I previously knew it

+to be the custom here for the chief’s wives to prepare his food in the

+gamal. Generally speaking, women are not admitted within these edifices,

+and more especially here, but to-day Virelumlum’s wives, three or four

+in number, were busy with the men getting ready the evening meal. I

+asked them where they were going to eat themselves, and they said with

+some naïvete, “Oh! that is a secondary matter, we have to get our

+masters’ dinner ready and shift for ourselves as best we may.” It would

+be impossible for them to eat any food cooked in the gamal, and so

+religiously have they been brought up under this restriction, that they

+would probably sooner die of hunger than attempt to appease their

+appetites with what to them is sacred food, or at least forbidden, and

+they are more faithful to the laws of men, than was Eve to the law of

+God. And, I suppose as spiritual death was the judgment on Eve’s

+disobedience, so would physical death be the penalty in case of their

+transgression. Human life is not more highly valued here than it is in

+Ireland, and a woman’s life is not much accounted of, and death is the

+common penalty for very trivial offences. Here it is universally

+averred that woman is at the root of all the evil that transpires, and

+poor things, they are too often the victims where the men go scott free.

+Here the females are much in excess of the males, and naturally polygamy

+is widely practised. The big men however, get the lion’s share, and it

+is no uncommon thing to find a troop of women in the households of the

+chiefs, varying from ten to fifty or even one hundred. All no doubt are

+not wives, but slaves and beasts of burden, and these big guns do

+nothing themselves but impose all the duties of the house and garden on

+their women. I do not think I am maligning the Opa men when I say that I

+look upon them as hideously lazy, but of course that results in large

+measure from their imposing their own natural duties on others, whom

+they find ready or obliged to do it for them. It is quite different at

+Maewo, where monogamy now mostly obtains, and where the men take an

+active and a man’s share in all out door employments. However Virelumlum

+was very active bustling about among his women, and I saw him

+shouldering off a big burden of yams, following up the rear of a troop

+of preceding females.

+

+Here time seems of no importance and no account, and it wearies me

+sometimes to see people squatting about for hours at a time, whistling

+or otherwise killing time. It is an ennervating climate no doubt, but

+that is no excuse for laziness in people who have been born and brought

+up in the country. I often urge laggards and idlers, who make my house a

+convenient lounge, to go to work and plant their fences, but as nothing

+can be done out of due course, what was, is, and ever must be the same.

+

+In the evening there was a great feast spread for the workers, and the

+day finished like all days here, with Evensong and school. This little

+village is a bright spot in the surrounding darkness, and I trust in

+time its influence for good will be more widely felt than even now. The

+attendants at the school seem wonderfully staunch, and the teachers very

+earnest, and I pray God that their vigorous instruction may not be lost

+on the heathen people around them. But there is the same callousness

+attending religious practice as about everything else here, and although

+they see the beauty and the benefit of Christianity, the effort is too

+great to reduce its blessed precepts to daily practice.

+

+

+_Wednesday, September 22nd._--By-and-bye I shall have as much trouble

+with my white flock, as with the black. The white Traders have got some

+feud one against the other because of difference of nationality, and I

+had to listen again to accusations from an Englishman against a

+Frenchman, as to plots against his life and property. Poor man, he is

+new to the business, is doing well, and fancies that he is taking the

+bread out of the Frenchmen’s mouths, but there is room for all. I found

+he was not only filled with gloomy fears himself, but had imbued the

+chief under whom he lives with warlike intentions also, and I had to put

+a veto upon any resort to open violence. I told the chief “Tabi,” that

+he must keep his hands from all white men, and if he had any complaints

+to make, to make them in the proper quarter, and not take the law into

+his own hands. He must learn the sacredness of human life, and not rush

+to bow and arrow and club for every fancied affront or grievance. As

+long as I was here I would do my best to see that peace and harmony

+reigned among whites and blacks, but I would countenance no violence or

+bloodshed. After this I went to the Frenchman at La[¨n]a[¨n]qa, and he

+seemed very surprised to think that he was accused of any ill feeling,

+and judging from his good nature I should imagine his surprise was

+genuine. However, I said it was very hard if a few white men living on

+so large an island, could not live at peace, even if their nationalities

+were various, and if they could not agree among themselves, what could

+be expected of the natives? I quite like the natty little man, and

+certainly he is the best colonist I have ever seen down here. He is a

+most handy man and always employed, and as far as industry goes, he sets

+the natives a very excellent example. The neatness of his house and

+surroundings too, ought to have a good effect.

+

+The fine day turned into a most dirty, rough, unpleasant evening, and we

+went to Prayers in a perfect downpour of rain. After Church there were

+great searchings of heart among the elders, and I publicly announced

+that I wanted the names of those who wished for Baptism. To the surprise

+of everybody, and to the delight of not a few, four women stood up and

+said almost simultaneously “Inew” (I). These quiet, demure creatures,

+generally so terribly afraid of the men, and always so shy in public,

+must have been influenced by a stronger Power than any they had hitherto

+known to make this public profession, and it produced no small sensation

+on all present. Two men also said they wished to be admitted to the

+Sacred Rite, and I hope they will soon be followed by many more. Charles

+Tariqatu’s influence here is great, and the fruits of his thorough and

+earnest teaching are beginning to be felt. He is so thorough and good

+himself, that his example and influence have all the more effect. There

+will be about twenty to be baptized on Sunday, the nucleus I trust, of a

+good Christian population hereafter.

+

+

+_Thursday, September 23rd._--A thoroughly wet and disagreeable day.

+Fortunately there was a great festivity here, and I was not left without

+something to do all day. I trust I did not spend quite an unprofitable

+time. I begin to see distinct light through my work here now, and I can

+see how the seed sown through long years is at last beginning to bear

+fruit. I am eminently satisfied with the work of the boys here, and I

+can see that Charles’s influence pervades everything. One man to-day,

+who never has taken much interest in our teaching, came to ask me if

+Martin Ta[¨n]abei might not come back from Norfolk Island, and live with

+him and his people as teacher. Another told me that my words to him of

+former years have quite changed the course of his life, and no doubt he

+is as different as possible to what he formerly was. I was under

+engagement to go to Tahimamavi, but when we were launching the boat the

+rain came down in such torrents that I reluctantly turned back. The

+evening was as bad as the day, and most uncomfortable it was in my

+leaking, cold house. We had Evensong with a good congregation, but a

+great gust of wind put out the principal lamp in the very middle of the

+service, and made it somewhat dismal.

+

+

+_Friday, September 24th._--Fine bright morning and a very hot day.

+Having failed to go to “Tahimamavi” yesterday I resolved to go instead

+this morning. We had a hot, but a most pleasant row up the coast about

+three miles, and found the people awaiting our arrival. They had been

+disappointed that we did not come yesterday, but supposed that the rain

+was the occasion of our failing in our promise. Such a nice number of

+bright boys assembled for school, and a great many grown-up people. The

+boys were divided into two classes, and two of the boys taught them

+their letters. The older men I undertook to teach myself with the help

+of Peter. I made a few remarks at first and then told Peter to say a few

+words. I was quite unprepared for what followed. It is not often I have

+seen such an effect on a native audience, and his flow of natural

+eloquence from beginning to end quite held the men enchained. With a

+great deal of energy, and a vast amount of earnestness, he went into the

+thick of his subject, and left an impression which I feel sure must,

+under God, have a good effect. At the end of his remarks he said very

+modestly, “You may perhaps think it presumptuous in me to stand here in

+your presence and speak like this, you who are old enough to be my

+fathers, and so high in rank all of you as to look upon me as a mere

+nonentity, and indeed I am amazed at my own audacity. But I speak about

+things of so momentous import that I take the chance of your

+displeasure, and submit myself to whatever verdict you may choose to

+return. Were I only concerned about things which belong to our heathen

+state, I should take the place of a humble listener and you should do

+the talking, but here all is different, for out of the abundance of the

+heart the mouth must speak, and that heart and mouth, thank God, are

+mine.” There was not even an assent of approval, all were so impressed

+with the message delivered so eloquently by a mere boy. I said at the

+end, after a long pause, for I did not like to break the spell which

+seemed to hold them all, “Our son has spoken good words to you which I

+hope you will not soon forget.” And they all said, “Who can forget

+them?” I was also much pleased with the way the boys had got on with

+their reading after so few lessons, and altogether I felt that a “great

+door and effectual had been opened here,” for which I was most thankful

+to Almighty God. Now it remains but to put a good teacher there, and I

+think a wide harvest may by God’s blessing be soon gathered in. We came

+back with a fair wind in the afternoon, and in the evening again we had

+torrents of rain. However, we had our full complement at Prayers, and a

+very nice time afterwards.

+

+

+_Saturday, September 25th._--I had intended to-day to have gone to

+Walurigi, but it set in to a wet day, and I was obliged to stay at home.

+However, I had a succession of visitors, and among them some Bushmen

+from a long way inland. The boys told me some odd stories about them,

+how ignorant they formerly were and what strange things they did in

+consequence. When they first came down to the sea they fancied it was

+hungry, because the surf came rolling in, as they said, “mouth wide

+open.” They therefore gave it food to eat. Knowing only the taro root,

+when first getting possession of a yam, they fancied it was firewood and

+put into the fire. Some many years ago they came down here in quest of a

+pig, and while waiting in the gamal their eyes caught sight of a tin

+with the picture of a lobster outside. Thinking this was something very

+wonderful they stole it, and marched off homewards with it instead of

+their pig. Arriving at their village home the chief made a great feast

+for it, and placed it in the midst of the village dancing ground, and

+went through the various ceremonies as if it were a pig in verity. The

+ceremonies over, the chief advanced to the tin, and with his foot,

+squashed up the tin as if he was treading the life of a pig out, with

+the inevitable result that he almost cut his foot off. Now-a-days of

+course they are more enlightened, and the men who were here to-day I

+found very amiable and intelligent. All “salt water” natives despise

+Bushmen, and they have always stories to tell of them. There is somehow

+a natural feud existing between them, but the agression I must say,

+comes generally from the Bushmen. They do, certainly, very unaccountable

+things, but they are always forgiven, and their conduct explained by

+saying, “Oh, they are only Bushmen,” or as they say here “(Taute).” A

+small vessel passed here in the afternoon, and anchored off M. Moussu’s

+place “Ia[¨n]a[¨n]qa.” In the evening there was the greatest excitement, the

+boys returning from fishing saw a boat under sail coming down the coast,

+and the general idea was that it was Mr. Brittain. I was led into the

+swim, and made active preparations for his reception, but he never

+turned up, the sail belonged to some other boat.

+

+Heavy rain and strong wind squalls again in the evening.

+

+

+_Sunday, September 26th._--A day which will ever be memorable to me,

+here at Tavolavola. To-day I Baptized twenty-five people, and it has

+been indeed a day of great spiritual enjoyment to me. Before I was up in

+the very early morning, I heard boys in the school house reading their

+baptismal service over, and all through the day there are some who have

+never had their books out of their hands. The teachers have done their

+part most admirably, and I thank God for such earnest children. We had

+school before breakfast, and a most excellent school too. I went from

+class to class leaving A. P. Huqe to discourse the older men. The boys,

+nothing daunted by my presence, kept their instruction going, which was

+generally very thorough and good. The earnestness of all was quite

+remarkable. After school and breakfast we had Morning Prayers, a nice

+hearty service, and after that we started by boat for “Tahimamavi.” Here

+we found the people awaiting us, and soon we were assembled for school.

+Charles gave the old men a very good and eloquent address, and three

+other classes were provided for. On our way home we stopped for a few

+minutes to learn the news from the schooner at anchor, but they had none

+except that the French troops were still at Port Sandwich, and did not

+intend to move at present, and moreover, that the Mail Steamer had a

+contract to come as far North as that Port. This does not look like

+clearing out of the group, and the Captain told me they had not the

+least intention of moving at present. Before long we shall know the fate

+of these islands, but I sincerely trust they may not fall into the hands

+of the French. In the afternoon I was most pleased to see the teachers

+selecting boys and youths, more especially connected with them by ties

+of kindred, and taking them for a walk and serious talk, as is the

+custom at Norfolk Island. Everyone was so filled with enthusiasm that

+the chief himself sent to say he wished to be Baptized, but inasmuch as

+he has already four or five wives, and contemplates taking more, I could

+not listen to his petition for a moment. To put away his wives would

+lower him in rank at once, and in the choice between God and Mammon, he

+felt the difficulty of putting away any of his women, and I was obliged

+to leave him with his god Mammon.

+

+In the early evening we decorated the Font, and when the building was

+lit up at night with lots of candles, it looked quite nice. The service

+was quite one of the most stirring I have ever taken part in, and the

+ready responses one by one, of men and women, produced a great effect on

+every one present. The women, generally like poor frightened, startled

+creatures, answered out marvellously, with a vigour and earnestness,

+such as no one was prepared for. The ceremony of Baptizing twenty-five

+people took some time, but no one seemed fatigued, so interested were

+they in what was going on. Among the number Baptized were a blind man,

+and a blind woman, but they, like the rest, were wonderfully

+self-possessed. Poor Diu, whom I called Kate, after Miss Lodge, who had

+nursed her so faithfully at Norfolk Island, was perfectly ecstatic in

+her delight, and seemed endued with special strength, having risen from

+a bed of sickness on purpose to be present.

+

+I gave a short address afterwards, and was followed by Charles, who

+spoke well to the subject, and in very good taste considering the number

+of outsiders present.

+

+We finished with the Nunc Dimittis, a fitting conclusion to a most

+beautiful service.

+

+

+_Monday, September 27th._--A most beautiful day, and a whole holiday. I

+told the scholars in the morning that I wished to see only smiling and

+happy faces all day, and to hear of nothing but joy and gladness because

+of the occasion of the holiday, viz., to celebrate the spiritual

+birthday of twenty-five brothers and sisters. Food in large quantities

+was provided, and we managed to secure two pigs for the feast. I think

+it was the brightest and happiest day I have ever known here, and our

+festivities were shared in by a number of neighbours. Contrary to

+strict custom here, the women and girls of the school prepared the food

+under the trees on the beach, the boys chopping the wood and doing the

+heavy work. The scene was a very animated one, and all seemed to be in

+the very best of tempers. In the evening the ovens were opened, and the

+distribution of the food was made. Unfortunately I was not very well

+myself, but that did not interfere very much with the rest. In the cool

+of the evening the boys played a number of their native games, very

+pretty and very picturesque, with a pretty song to each. When darkness

+closed in we had Evensong, and then the happy day was brought to an end.

+

+

+_Tuesday, September 28th._--This morning after our duties here, we

+started for a long voyage to “Vagebeo,” which means something like “down

+West.” “Beo” is the word used there for “down,” while ours here is

+“Hivo.” “Vage” is a particle put before the name of a place with a sense

+of motion towards the place, thus when we are going to Maewo we are here

+going “vage Maewo,” or Araga “vage Raga,” or Marino “vage Marino,” and

+so when we are going to the Beo people we are going “Vage Beo.” We call

+the people of those parts “Meraibeo.” They, on the other hand, term

+these parts “Taulu,” “up East,” and when coming here they say they are

+going “Vageulu,” because our word for “up” here is “Ulu.” We here are to

+them “Natiulu.”

+

+We had a light, fair wind down, and did the journey in good time. We

+hauled up our boat at a place called “Duidui,” where a Mr. Wilber,

+commonly called “Jim” by white traders, and by the natives, “Timi,”

+lives.

+

+He came down to welcome us, and extended his hospitality to me as long

+as I chose to stay. I was not sorry to accept it, and I made his

+residence the basis of my operations. He has been here for many years,

+and is well known and very much liked by the natives. He does a very

+extensive business there in copra (the dried coconut), &c., and deals

+very kindly, liberally, and most honourably with the people. He has very

+nice premises there, and a large establishment. He got us refreshments

+served as soon as we arrived, and after resting for a time he went with

+me to the village of the great man of those parts “A[¨n]ga,” or as the

+Traders call him, “anchor.” I knew him formerly as a very large and

+powerful man, but long sickness has reduced him to a terrible and

+pitiable state of weakness and leanness. He asked me to come and settle

+in those parts and start a school for his people. The natives there are

+very numerous and extremely amiable, and I feel sure a great deal might

+be done if I could see my way to settling there. A fine young fellow,

+his son, was very friendly, and also asked me to come and teach them. I

+said I would see what I could do if they would spare me some boys to go

+to Norfolk Island to be taught. This they said they would do, as they

+were tired of the Labour ships. We got back, and Mr. Wilber indulged us

+in a most sumptuous repast. The boys, my boat’s crew, being tired, we

+had Prayers early, and they retired for the night in very comfortable

+quarters provided for them. We, Mr. Wilber, another white man and

+myself, sat talking till far on into the night, and when I retired it

+was to the ample recesses of a large four poster, with sheets and other

+delights and comforts of civilization. I felt I had turned my host out

+of his bed, but he would insist on my sleeping where he had put me, and

+I acquiesced. The next morning, _Wednesday, 29th September_, it was very

+hot and calm, and I determined not to start till the afternoon. After a

+sumptuous lunch I went to another great man’s village, and received a

+warm welcome. There they told me that they would build me a schoolhouse

+and give me boys, and would sell their land to no one else if I would

+come there and occupy it. Altogether the cry from Macedonia to come over

+and help them was very cheering, and I must try what I can do for them.

+

+At the end of this period of my work, it is pleasant and thankworthy to

+find the Morian’s land stretching out her hands unto God. We started

+soon after I got back for “home,” and had a long, toilsome journey up.

+However, the boat’s crew were very plucky and merry, and didn’t seem

+much to mind as the boat’s head was towards Tavolavola. I myself was

+very seasick in the smooth water, and very soon was in the shivering fit

+of the ague. I made as good a bed as possible in the boat, and lay down

+till I got here. On arrival I found Mr. Brittain and party here, and

+felt sorry for him that I was such a sorry host. I certainly felt

+cheered by his society, and we sat quite late talking about matters of

+mutual interest.

+

+

+_Thursday, September 30th._--After a night of fever and strong

+perspiration I got up this morning feeling fairly refreshed, and a good

+deal better, but weak and not fit for much. Mr. Brittain and his party

+went to Lobaha by boat, but I stayed at home to rest. In the afternoon

+we walked up to M. Moussu’s place, and he showed us with great pride his

+garden and poultry yard, and all the other many things which his

+ingenuity devised, and his cunning hand has fashioned. He gave a

+splendid quantity of green food, which we afterwards enjoyed for

+dinner. Prayers concluded the public part of the day, and Mr. B. and

+myself sat till late talking here in the quiet of a most pacific and

+mild evening.

+

+

+_Friday, October 1st._--Fine day. After our morning duties here were

+over, Mr. Brittain and I went up to Tahimamavi, and stayed some time

+with the kind-hearted people.

+

+Before leaving, Mr. Brittain bought a number of native Opa mats, which

+are much treasured at his station at Araga. The Opa people are great

+hands at mat weaving, and are possessors of a greater quantity and

+variety than any natives I know. Since the introduction of European

+calico the manufacture has somewhat diminished. However, when it comes

+to getting so much tobacco, a great many still turn up, and for the

+labour it must be to make them, the price is perhaps inadequate except

+they get all they ask.

+

+We came home in the very hot sun, and Mr. Brittain sat down to dinner

+alone, I myself being too sick to join him. All the evening I was fit

+for nothing, and lay down all the time. I did not get up for church, and

+only finally left my bed to go back to it again for the night. I felt

+miserably shabby in my position as host to treat my guest so, but I

+could not help it.

+

+

+_Saturday, October 2nd._--Dull threatening morning and squally. Mr.

+Brittain and party decided to go although we tried to detain them. The

+day, however, cleared, and as they did not return we concluded that they

+had stood across for Maewo. I was feeling weak and miserable when the

+kind little Frenchman, M. Moussu, appeared to take me away to have lunch

+with him. I had agreed to partake of his hospitality on this day, but

+had quite forgotten all about it. However, my seediness was excuse

+enough for my forgetfulness, and here he was with his boat to take me

+off. He is a first rate cook, and treated me to such a display of

+luxuries as I have never before seen in these parts. The choicest soup,

+&c., &c., and later on in the feast a most excellent dish of beche de

+mer. This I liked very much, and should fancy it was very nourishing. He

+complained of my want of appetite, and J. was sorry I had not more when

+so many good things were there to be eaten. He brought me back again in

+his boat, and I felt pretty well all the evening. We had Prayers, and

+singing practice afterwards, preparatory to Sunday. The evening was

+fine, and I trust Mr. Brittain and party are well on their homeward way.

+I wished him to stay till Monday, but he was anxious to get back for

+Sunday.

+

+

+_Sunday, October 3rd._--Last night I fancied A. P. Huqe was at the point

+of death. To-day I felt very ill myself, and have been fit for very

+little all day. I managed to get through my Sunday duties here, however,

+and Charles, Mera, and some others went to Tahimamavi, where they had

+the usual school. I feel very comforted at the earnest manner with which

+these good people are stretching out their hands at last unto God. I

+pray that His Spirit may descend upon them in ample measure, that they

+may continue as earnest to the end as they have now begun to be. I

+trust, too, the zeal and perseverance of the boys may keep up, so that

+the teaching may be regularly carried on, and the Word of God become a

+savour of life unto life.

+

+At present they are very earnest and even indefatigable, but I am

+somewhat afraid lest white supervision may have something to do with

+this, and when I am away the present enthusiasm may die down, and things

+be allowed to go on as they were before.

+

+Would to God I had a few more teachers like Charles Tariqatu, a man in

+whom truly the Spirit of God is, the most earnest, humble, patient,

+God-fearing, Gospel-loving youth Opa has ever known. I can only commit

+the matter to God, and He will provide as seemeth Him best.

+

+In the evening I was very sick and could eat no dinner, and went to bed

+with ague. Could not go to Church, and Charles took the service and

+preached.

+

+

+_Monday, October 4th._--Not very well. I had promised, if well enough,

+to go to Lobaha to-day, but I had to put off my journey. It was a fine

+day with a strong Trade wind blowing. In the evening A. P. Huqe was very

+ill, and I began to be quite alarmed about him. However, we applied hot

+flannels, which relieved the pain and the vomitting. When he was quieted

+a little, we removed him to the chief’s house, where he was quiet and

+comfortable. Some of the boys sat with him, but before I went to bed he

+was decidedly better, but painfully weak. The only thing I could give

+him was arrowroot and brandy, which fortunately he liked, and it did him

+good. I forgot my own ailments in my anxiety for him, and I went to bed

+aguish and shivering.

+

+

+_Tuesday, October 5th._--We had got through our morning duties, and I

+had already secured my boat’s crew, and were on the point of starting

+for Lobaha, when, “Sail oh!” was cried, and there was the veritable

+_Southern Cross_ close at hand. It was not long before she was at

+anchor, and we were rowing off to her. I saw the Bishop and Mr. Palmer

+on board from some distance off, and when we got alongside, the first

+question I asked was of course about the Norfolk Island news, which was

+good. When I got over the side of the ship and had greeted the Bishop

+and all, I almost fell overboard again with astonishment, for there was

+Mrs. Selwyn in _proporia persona_, and I could hardly believe my eyes. I

+was, as they say, perfectly “flabergastered,” and could only shake her

+by the hand without saying a word, so surprised was I. Yet I was most

+glad to see her, and she makes quite a new light and life to our

+ship-board life. Having all my things in the boat, I did not go in again

+ashore, but the Bishop kindly rowed in to bring off my party who were

+going to Maewo. When I had settled down a little, and got over my

+surprise at seeing Mrs. Selwyn, I devoured my home letters, which were

+very numerous and most welcome. Thank God, all were well and prosperous

+at Norfolk Island.

+

+One begins a new life now with good news, and a great slice of home on

+board in the beloved presence of our Bishop’s wife, and the past is

+forgotten in the present. When the Bishop came off, we got away under

+steam for Maewo. We had a quick passage over, and were at anchor about

+8.30 p.m. It was a glorious evening with a nice bright moon overhead,

+and the Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn went for a row in the quiet of the night.

+In due course, we retired, but I found it very hot and stuffy after the

+cool night air ashore.

+

+

+_Wednesday, October 6th._--On board the _Southern Cross_. The tide did

+not serve till nearly noon, and then the watering began. I took no part,

+because I was not very well, and I had to get my things together

+preparatory to going ashore. In the afternoon the Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn

+went ashore for a scramble, and her enthusiasm when she came off was

+quite refreshing and most charming to see and hear. The watering, too,

+was finished, and I was to have gone ashore, but I stayed for another

+night on board, intending to start very early the next morning. However,

+I was not very well, and the Bishop kindly postponed the time of

+sailing, so that the vessel did not leave till after breakfast on

+

+

+_Thursday, October 7th._--Mrs. Selwyn kindly came in with the Bishop to

+see the last of me, and A. P. Huqe and myself sat some time after our

+farewells had been said, deliberating the stupendous undertaking of

+getting to Tanrig. We were both much refreshed by our stay on board, and

+quite ready for our stay on shore again. I shall certainly not want for

+medical comforts and dainties, or even medicines, for the Bishop was

+kindness itself in lading me with one good thing after another, until my

+paraphernalia of travel have increased to the no small consternation of

+my bearers. When the vessel was well away we made our start, and with

+the expenditure of most of our strength, and certainly of all our

+moisture, we got at length to the top of the first hill. Then it was all

+plain sailing, and we got to Ruosi, where we rested and bathed. In that

+refreshing water I seemed to have left all my ailments and distresses,

+and I was quite another being when I started again for Tanrig. Hither we

+arrived in due course, and Huqe, too, seemed quite like another being.

+It is so nice getting back here again, with the cool invigorating air

+and the cheery welcoming faces all so pleasant. I miss Arthur, though,

+very much, and now that Patrick has gone in the ship, the place is

+almost devoid of teachers, ourselves excepted. The first evening ashore

+was fine, and the moon shone out brightly as we were coming from

+Prayers.

+

+

+_Friday, October 8th._--It rained very heavily during the night, and

+this morning and all day it blew very hard, with heavy rain squalls at

+intervals. I did not go out all day, and indeed, I had enough to keep me

+at home. The people were away busy with their gardens, and the women at

+home preparing the food for the men. I had almost interminable visits

+from one and another, during the day, to see the pictures which I had

+taken of the place, and which Dr. Codrington has printed and sent down

+to me. They were quite charmed with them, and were much more clever in

+finding out faces and details, than ever I expected they would be. The

+day drew rapidly to a close, and the evening was fairly pleasant, but

+somewhat cold and damp. We had a fair attendance at evening school, and

+I gave them an address instead of school.

+

+

+_Saturday, October 9th._--A thoroughly wet and disagreeable day. The

+rain poured down, and the village looked as if it were going to be

+flooded. It kept on, too, without intermission almost the whole day, and

+I could not stir out of doors. However, I had plenty of occupation, and

+the time passed rapidly. It cleared slightly towards evening, and it was

+fine overhead for Evensong. Nothing seems to keep these hardy people

+indoors, and most of them have been paddling about all day in their taro

+gardens, utterly regardless of the state of the elements. In spite of

+all inconveniences we had quite a large evening congregation, and few

+seemed the worse in any way for the unpleasant day. It was a cold, raw

+evening, and I am not sorry that bed-time is so near.

+

+

+_Sunday, October 10th._--The day somewhat finer overhead, but still very

+squally and boisterous. As soon as I was up and dressed we had morning

+school, with a large and general attendance. The first two classes are

+supposed to say their Sunday Collect at this school, and answer

+questions on it. The school begins with a Hymn and Prayer, and finishes

+with the Lord’s Prayer and the Grace. The third class learn the Church

+Catechism, and the remainder of the school read from a small manual

+containing the first seven chapters of S. Matthew’s Gospel. The school

+lasts about an hour. After breakfast we had Morning Prayer, a very nice

+service, and I Baptized the infant son of Thomas and Lily by name and

+special request--Penny. A. P. Huqe, Harry, and Agnes stood sponsors. The

+Font was very tastefully and prettily decorated by Arthur, and the

+service was very solemn.

+

+After Matins I assembled the Catechumens for instruction, and I told

+them that I wished everyone present fully to make up his or her mind to

+the dignity, the solemnity, and responsibility of what they were

+undertaking. They are the last unbaptized inhabitants of Tanrig, and of

+their own accord have pressed for Baptism. They number over twenty, and

+seem very much in earnest, especially the older men and women. It is

+most gratifying to me, and a matter for which I cannot sufficiently

+thank God, that just at the end of this era of my missionary life, I

+should see such zeal and earnestness exhibited by the people among whom

+I have worked so long, and apparently with so little result. I shall

+leave behind me here, please God, an entirely Christian village, in

+profession at least, and I trust in reality also. There are one or two I

+wanted to leave out, but they seem so anxious to be Baptized, that I

+leave their future with God and the blessing of His spirit, and accede

+to their request. We have here now, all the organizations of a Christian

+community, a good school, an excellent Church, and a zealous

+congregation. Surely one can labour on steadfast and unmoveable, seeing

+that one’s labour is not in vain in the Lord. At other stations also,

+people are crying out for Baptism, and before I leave, please God, I

+shall admit many into the Fold of Christ’s Flock.

+

+It was too wet to get about during the afternoon, but we had our usual

+social meal in the school-house, and in due course, Evensong. This was

+one of the heartiest and most inspiriting services I have ever known

+here, and the congregation felt the same, the singing, the responses and

+all, went with a swing and harmony which shewed that the people’s hearts

+were in it. I gave a discourse on the Gospel for the day, the story of

+the widow’s son at Nain, and likened them to the young man, and Christ

+coming and touching the bier and saying stop! to the powers of evil who

+were carrying them, dead in trespasses and sins, out to their burial.

+The young man sat up and began to speak, and our first act, when

+delivered from the wrath to come, should be to sit up and speak and

+declare God’s praises for all He has done for us in His dear Son our

+Saviour. We had singing afterwards, and then dispersed for the night. A

+great many of the congregation lingered outside, to wish me good-night.

+Thank God for these real days, how different to the old heathen times,

+when the people were still lying in the darkness and shadow of death.

+God grant that they may know Him and the power of His resurrection, and

+be filled with His fulness and grace.

+

+

+_Monday, October 11th_, was much finer, and the sun shone out in rich

+splendour. The people at this time of the year are very busy planting

+their yam gardens, and every day they are at work from morning until

+night. The men do the toiling part, the women the cooking. They work in

+parties, and many hands make light work. The harmonium being out of

+order I stayed to try and mend it. I was interrupted in the midst of my

+work by visitors from Tasmouri and Tasmate, and retired to my house to

+talk with them. When they left I finished my job, and was far more

+successful than ever I dared to hope. The bellows had burst, and the

+wind escaped in such quantities that it was hard to get any music at all

+out of the instrument. I could only make a patch up affair of it, but it

+was so far successful that a volume of sound was emitted such as I have

+never heard from it before, and the addition to the singing in the

+evening was very marked. I had intended to have made an excursion during

+the day, but it was too late when I had finished, and I had to content

+myself at home. After Evensong I took the Catechumens for a lesson, and

+afterwards joined my own class in the school previous to the Roll Call.

+The evening was fine, but blustery and raw, and I fancy the people were

+tired, for there was quietness soon after school.

+

+

+_Tuesday, October 12th._--Very rough, squally morning and a terribly

+windy night. Sometimes I fancied I was going to be blown over altogether

+in my frail native hut. However, these little tenements stand a great

+deal, and here I am safe and sound at the beginning of a new day.

+

+After early Morning Prayer we had our usual school, and breakfast

+followed. I have no refreshment before this meal, and sometimes I feel a

+little famished, but am generally ready for the breakfast when it comes.

+It is not a very sumptuous meal at the best of times, plain rice and a

+cup of coffee, but it does very well, and stops the craving of the

+appetite as well as anything else. The strange thing is that at home I

+scarcely ever touch rice, having a positive aversion to it, but here I

+make my breakfast on it nine mornings out of ten.

+

+After breakfast I had school with a very earnest Candidate for Baptism

+who comes from Mandurvat, and wished for special instruction. I hope I

+managed to explain to him any difficulties he has experienced in the

+nature and meaning of the service. When he was dismissed I wended my way

+with some of the boys to Ruosi, where I bathed and washed my clothes. I

+do not know what it was, but when I got home I was quite exhausted, and

+somehow I don’t feel as strong as I did at the beginning of the season.

+We had very hearty Evensong, and a nice class with the Catechumens, who,

+I think, are very much in earnest, especially the older men. There are

+about twenty in this class, the last remnant of the heathen population.

+With their Baptism, Tanrig will cease to have any remains of heathenism,

+and in name at least will be able to call itself Christian. The usual

+school was held, and the first two classes were engaged in solving the

+mysteries of simple addition, one of the girls succeeding in doing a six

+line sum without a fault. This same girl, Emily by name, is rather a

+creditable production for this out of the world place. She reads well,

+answers well, and writes well, besides being quite an adept at figures.

+A couple of years at Norfolk Island would make a very useful woman of

+her. There are seven others in her class who all are very fair scholars,

+and take their turn at teaching.

+

+

+_Wednesday, October 13th._--Very fine morning and very warm. After our

+morning duties were over there was soon a dead silence over the village,

+the people all going off to their several occupations in their gardens.

+I busied myself, and got very hot over a little simple carpentering--but

+oh! the tools, they were so blunt and so rusty. However, I managed to do

+fairly well what I wanted to do, viz. to enlarge the Communion table,

+and generally to give a more Churchy appearance to the East end of our

+Church. I proposed to myself a bathe after my labours were over, but I

+was too exhausted, and stayed at home in preference. However, the shades

+of evening soon stole on, and my little cooks came to get my dinner,

+which, frugal as it was, I enjoyed with the best of sauce--hunger. The

+evening was calm and fine, and I sat outside my house and enjoyed myself

+with a book. In the evening they came to tell me of the death of a poor

+heathen woman who has lately come here, and has been for years past a

+confirmed invalid. Poor thing! the women came back in the evening to

+find her cold and stiff in death, without a soul near her to say a word

+of comfort or to close her eyes in dying. She was buried in the

+moonlight, and her memory consigned to oblivion with her body. Her sad

+story afforded me a fitting text for the Catechumens afterwards, which I

+trust was not unproductive of seasonable lessons and wholesome and

+solemn warnings. Our singing school subsequently was very nice, after

+which everyone seemed glad to turn in for the night.

+

+

+_Thursday, October 14th._--Fine bright morning, and a most beautiful day

+with a strong Trade wind blowing. After our morning duties I was left

+alone, the people being away almost at once to their gardens. They work

+very hard at this season, and the men do the heaviest part of the

+labour. At present they are engaged in fence making, usually here with

+bamboos, and very neatly they make them. It is very hot, fatiguing work

+for them in the broiling sun, but I suppose habit has so far become

+second nature with them, that they don’t seem to notice the heat or mind

+a little extra perspiration. The cool waters of the river always afford

+a grateful and refreshing anticipation when the work is once over.

+

+I amused myself with making a Cross to surmount the Communion table, and

+give a little more of a sacred nature to the Chancel of the Church. With

+my poor tools and limited necessaries at my disposal I flattered myself

+that I had done fairly well, and I afterwards attempted a picture

+gallery on the walls of my house, which has attracted all the boys in

+the village this evening, and they have taken more interest in these

+pictures than ever I have seen them before display. The launching of a

+life boat, and the English Bishops have been the chief attractions, and

+everyone, I think, has counted over the Bishops dozens of times. There

+being no one here in the afternoon I went alone to the river and enjoyed

+a refreshing bath. This evening it is blowing heavily, but there is a

+good moon and it is fine overhead. Instruction to the Catechumens, and

+the evening school finished a nice day.

+

+

+_Friday, October 15th._--After our morning duties here and breakfast I

+started with a party of four for Tasmouri. It had rained a little

+during the night, and the bush was still wet this morning. The sun,

+however, shone out in Tropical brilliancy, and travelling was very

+unpleasant. The hottest time is just after a shower, and to-day proved

+no exception to the native idea on the subject. I don’t know when I have

+felt so hot and disinclined for exertion. However, the journey had to be

+made, and on I went somewhat mechanically. We arrived in due course at a

+rippling brook which the natives call “Na Marou,” and here we refreshed

+ourselves with its cooling waters and quaffed away our thirst. We

+rested, too, awhile, and then shouldering our impedimenta on we trudged

+again. The dense bush afforded a grateful shade generally, but every now

+and then we came out into the open glade, and we felt by experience for

+how much we were indebted to the shelter from the sun’s rays. Our next

+resting place was “Qaruqatu,” and then we were in a very liquid

+condition, and could gladly have lain down and given up further exertion

+for the day, but we were not half-way to our destination yet, and when

+we had cooled a bit we moved on to the village, where we found the “Uta”

+natives awaiting our arrival. They had prepared food for us and procured

+a good supply of coconuts, and we stopped for some time with them.

+However, the day was hastening on to-night, and we were driven to move

+on when we would willingly have sat on in idleness and inactivity. We

+started again for “Vanua garaqa” where the school house is, and there I

+found my friend and teacher “Takele,” whom I was going to Baptize on

+Sunday, and with whom I was anxious to have some previous conversation.

+He is a good man, and a staunch, and “Uta” owes him a great deal for his

+steadfast and consistent upholding of the Truth, and his fearless and

+bold protestations against evil. He had also food and coconuts ready for

+us, and I am afraid I went to sleep for a while, as the boys were

+refreshing the inner man. However, we were not yet at our journey’s end,

+and shouldering our traps, on we went again.

+

+After leaving Uta there is a very steep descent, really down the face of

+the cliff, Tasmouri being on the other side of the island to windward.

+The road, however, is good, if somewhat precipitous, and my poor long

+shins ached again before I got to the bottom. Yet we did get to the

+bottom, and there we found a most lovely natural bathing place, the

+delight and comfort of which we were not long in testing. One can

+imagine how refreshing it must inevitably be to get off one’s dripping

+garments, and get under a cool and delicious shower-bath. I felt much

+more “fit” when I got on my walking garments again and prepared for

+another advance towards Tasmouri, which I must say has never seemed so

+far and the journey towards it so fatiguing. We found Samuel and the

+Tasmouri people waiting from the village, and of course had food and

+drink in readiness for us. It was very cool and nice there, and being

+now near our destination we were not in a great hurry to move. Tasmouri,

+however, was reached towards evening, but oh! how hot the place is! a

+change of raiment scarcely mended matters, and I was soon almost as

+liquid as before. My evening meal made matters worse, and didn’t I long

+for a little grateful coolness? However, that seems an unknown quantity,

+and I gave up the idea of discovering it more here than anywhere else.

+Evensong followed in due course, and afterwards I had the Catechumen

+class for a short instruction. When these duties were over I was fit for

+bed, and this is the reason of the shortness and scantiness of my

+account of this day.

+

+

+_Saturday, October 16th._--At Tasmouri. Most beautiful morning, but oh!

+so hot. Within doors it was absolutely unbearable, and I was glad when

+the people proposed to go to the seaside. The place selected was

+“Ro[¨n]onawo,” and there it was bearably cool. A “Guardian” supplied me

+with companionship, and it proved to be so pleasant there that we spent

+most of the day, the boys bathing, fishing, and generally enjoying life,

+and I reading and seeking new names for the Baptismal Candidates. The

+heat again in the evening when we came home was very oppressive, and so

+great had it been in the house during the day that my candle I found all

+melted and doubled down in the candlestick.

+

+My dinner did not mend matters, but rather made the heat the hotter. I

+could not get cool for the life of me, and I had to grin and bear the

+discomfort. I do not know a much hotter place than Tasmouri and trust I

+never may, the wonder is how people live there at all. The fact I

+suppose is that the natives live very little within doors except at

+night, but during the day are engaged in their gardens, or otherwise

+enjoying the free and easy life to which they are the heirs by nature.

+It was intensely hot at Evensong, and oh! how one sighed for relief! An

+interesting Class with the Catechumens finished a pleasant day, on the

+whole, in spite of the heat. While we were at Evensong, and even while

+praying for her, one of the Christian young women, by name “Nesta,” was

+given a happy issue out of all her afflictions. She has been lying in a

+state ‘twixt life and death for more than two months, and died this

+evening. She was one of the first baptized here, and a nice, clever girl

+she was, and a great favourite. The people asked me to bury her

+to-night, and I consented. About midnight the grave was finished, and I

+went with the people to the graveside. A weird, but picturesque scene it

+was, the moon in full splendour high up in the heavens, the blazing

+native torches casting a lurid glare upon the quiet figure of the dead,

+resting in her final bed and wrapped in native mats, the husband

+seemingly heart-broken, wailing beside the open grave, the women sobbing

+all around, myself with a lantern and vested in a surplice at the head

+of the grave, and the people all subdued and solemn around. I read the

+Burial Service, and when I came to “earth to earth,” “ashes to ashes,”

+“dust to dust,” Samuel threw on the earth according to custom, and at

+the end of the service we sang a funeral hymn, which sounded very solemn

+in the strange stillness of the night. I gave an address to the people,

+and words never seem to me more appropriate, and apposite than on this

+occasion. When I had finished my part of the service I came away, and

+left the grave diggers to their unenviable duty.

+

+

+_Sunday, October 17th._--Most glorious morning and meltingly hot. We had

+school before breakfast, and I took a class of adult women. I was quite

+surprised at their readiness in the Church Catechism, which they said by

+heart from beginning to end. The Collect also they had got by heart and

+read with great facility. With the proficiency of the school generally I

+was amply satisfied, and teaching has evidently not been thrown away on

+the majority of the scholars. After breakfast we had Prayers, and the

+discomfort of the heat was not lessened by the hateful buzz and presence

+of the blue bottles. The service was hearty and comforting, however, and

+I asked the Catechumens to stay afterwards.

+

+With them I had a nice class, and was satisfied that they were in

+earnest. One man who has two wives, and has long held out against

+Baptism, has now given in and put away one of his wives. It is a

+peculiarly hard case, as he has children by both, and the women have

+both lived with him for a great number of years. Both offered to go, and

+gave him his free choice as to the one he chose to retain and which to

+banish. He chose the elder of the two, his first wife, and the other

+consequently left, but I could not help being sorry for them all, and at

+the earnest supplication of the divorced wife I admitted her and her

+young child to Holy Baptism. It was no inconsiderable pang to the

+husband to relinquish his second wife, and I could see that the

+sacrifice both he and she were making had cost them a great deal of

+suffering, but the rule is hard and fast, and I could not go beyond our

+invariable practice to admit a man with one wife only to the Rites of

+our Holy Church.

+

+In the evening I Baptized seventeen people of all sizes, ages, and

+sexes, and Tasmouri now lays claim to the proud title of being the first

+entirely Christian village in Maewo. It has not now a single heathen

+member, and I thank God and take courage from the success which His Word

+has had here through His Grace, and to Him alone be the honour and

+glory.

+

+After the Baptism, and at the end of Evensong, I gave an address, and

+was listened to with marked attention, and I pray God my words may not

+have been spoken in vain. It was indeed to me an occasion of rejoicing

+in the Spirit, and I do not think I shall soon forget the reality and

+heartiness of that service. As I sat here in my house afterwards, all

+the newly Baptized came to bid me good-night, and the woman and child

+who were going into new quarters were not among the last or the least

+grateful for the events of the evening, for their present loss will be

+their eternal gain, and to have Jesus as Friend and Husband must

+compensate any one, with a grain of mustard-seed faith in their hearts,

+for the loss of husband and earthly father. None the less I could not

+help feeling sorry for the pretty, gentle creature who will begin

+henceforth a new and different life--this, of course, humanly speaking.

+I was very tired when the day was over, and everyone seemed glad that

+resting time had come.

+

+

+_Monday, October 18th._--Fine, indeed glorious day, but consequently

+very hot. According to standing custom here, I gave a whole holiday to

+the school and, we went for our usual picnic. The fatted pig was killed,

+and we all proceeded to Ro[¨n]onawo to prepare it for dinner. The women

+did the cooking, the men lending ready and very efficient aid in getting

+and cutting firewood, &c. A book gave me employment throughout the day,

+and there was a good deal to interest one going on. The scene was far

+from being unanimated and devoid of interest, and the day soon hastened

+on to its termination and natural darkness. The ovens were opened in due

+course, and disgorged their plentiful contents. After grace the food was

+distributed, and before long we were wending our way homewards.

+

+After Evensong a request was brought me that the people might have a

+dance, and of course I consented. There was not a very numerous company

+of dancers, but they kept up their energy for an hour or two in a

+manner in which I should be very sorry to imitate them, and the result

+may be imagined in a place where the smallest movement throws you into a

+bath of perspiration. This evening appeared those mysterious things like

+seaworms. They only come about one night in the year, but the people not

+only know the very night of their appearance, but almost the very hour.

+When they are expecting them they get ready a peculiar kind of deep

+basket with a wide mouth, and long cane torches, and when these worms of

+the sea are observed, the people shovel them by handsful into their

+baskets, and great quantities are in this way taken. They are of course

+esteemed a great delicacy, and by cooking and re-cooking, they are kept

+for a very long time as an accompaniment to their different kinds of

+food. Their flavour is somewhat peculiar, but by no means disagreeable,

+and I can quite understand a native esteeming them a delicacy. Their

+wormy nature, I am afraid, gives me a false sentiment against their

+niceness. Considerable numbers were secured this evening, but the “haul”

+was said not to be a very successful one.

+

+

+_Tuesday, October 19th._--This morning we were early astir and getting

+ready for our homeward journey. We had Prayers and school and then

+breakfast, after which we put our traps together and prepared to start.

+The boat was coming for me, so that our first journey was to Tasmate,

+and no joke at that, hot as it was. However, we got there finally, and

+before the boat. It was very warm walking, and I was very liquid again

+by the time Tasmate was reached. While we were there waiting for the

+boat a big steamer passed Southwards. She had not the appearance of a

+man-of-war, but was too large to be down this way for no purpose. She

+was steaming fast and well, but looked to be rather battered and

+dilapidated. She appeared to have come from Fiji or from somewhere in

+that direction. Later on we saw her again up the coast, whither perhaps

+she may have gone for water. Our row homewards was terrible--the heat

+was simply awful and pelted down upon us piteously without a breath of

+wind. However, we got to our boat cove eventually, and hauled up our

+boat, and then, as night was drawing nigh, we prepared to start at once

+for Tanrig. We had scarcely got off before we were caught in a heavy

+thunderstorm, and the rain came down in torrents. The roads, always bad,

+were now fearful, and having a good deal of water before us to wade

+through I had taken off my shoes and socks. My feet were very sore when

+I got to Ruosi, where, in spite of present dripping condition, we all

+bathed, and we got home like drowned rats, to find that very little rain

+had fallen here. After tea and Evensong I was ready for bed, being very

+tired and foot-sore.

+

+

+_Wednesday, October 20th._--I was very glad of a good excuse for a

+thoroughly quiet day, and this was given me in a perfect downpour of

+rain, which continued without cessation until past midday, and I could

+not possibly get out. It cleared, however, in the evening, and I got out

+to church and to my Catechumen class, after which we had our usual

+secular singing. These Wednesday evenings are certainly looked forward

+to, but they do not satisfy me that much is taught by them. The people

+are very slow at picking up new things, and except occasionally are far

+from enthusiastic about the performance, yet I suppose they enjoy it or

+they would not attend in such numbers. I was perfectly inundated

+afterwards by people coming to wish me good-night. Shaking hands has

+become quite an institution here now, and you cannot meet or quit anyone

+except the process of hand grasping be gone through. However, it is a

+good step to the right direction and I give so much encouragement to it

+that my own arm runs the risk often of being wrung off.

+

+

+_Thursday, October 21st._--Busy here all the morning, and having got

+very hot and tired with what I was doing, I came to get my towel to go

+for a bathe, when lo and behold, down came the rain in a perfect

+torrent, and I had to swallow my disappointment and stay at home.

+However, I started again at my picture gallery, and got a good deal

+done. I must try and finish it at some future time. It is a source of

+immense diversion to not a few, and some of the boys are never tired of

+coming to find out what the pictures mean. I was not very well all day,

+and after the Catechumen Class was very glad to retire for the night.

+

+

+_Friday, October 22nd._--Was very sick all the morning, and went to

+Ruosi to try and drown my cares in the river, but was only partially

+successful. Came back appetiteless to an uninviting dinner, and did not

+feel equal to much during the evening.

+

+

+_Saturday, October 23rd._--Very busy all day with preparations for

+to-morrow. Anthony came to make final arrangements about his Candidates.

+Determined to go to “Naruru” for the ceremony. Was not well all day, and

+everything seemed a business. Final class with Catechumens.

+

+

+_Sunday, October 24th._--A very full but an exceptionally joyous day. We

+had school before breakfast, but that meal followed directly after. Then

+came Mattins. Then, followed by all the male population of Tanrig, I

+went to Naruru. The house there being very small I determined to have

+the Baptism out of doors. I would have gone to the river-side but it was

+too far. While Anthony and the others were getting ready the place and

+the Font, I said a few final words to the Candidates, who were already

+well prepared. Anthony’s wife was among the number, and a fine,

+intelligent young woman she is. There were nine Candidates in all, and

+the service was a very solemn and impressive one. It was the first time

+I had ever Baptized anyone in the open air, but a great deal of

+solemnity was not lost by it. The whole service went very nicely, and I

+hope the Candidates were fully alive to the importance and dignity of

+the occasion. When it was over I said a few words to the Congregation

+and Baptized, and soon after we hastened home, having another Baptism at

+Tanrig. During my absence A. P. Huqe had made a most chastely pretty

+Font, and brightened up the Church with flowers, &c., until it looked

+quite charming. The Baptism took place in the evening, and seeing that

+there were as many as twenty-eight Candidates it was not a short

+service. It passed off very nicely, and I think made a great impression.

+I preached afterwards, and told them that this would be my final Baptism

+for some time to come, and urged them all to remember their Baptismal

+vows and to try and live more and more up to them, by the grace of God.

+Tanrig is now a Christian village, and the number Baptized here is

+considerably over a hundred. There are suburbs, however, which are still

+lying in comparative heathen darkness, and these we shall now have time,

+please God, to attack. There is much rejoicing here to-day, and a fresh

+start has again been made. I have Baptized thirty-seven people to-day,

+and I thank God and take courage.

+

+

+_Monday, October 25th._--General holiday, and great Christening Feast at

+Ruosi. All the world turned out from here, and we were joined by many

+from Naruru. Four large pigs were slaughtered, and a prodigious quantity

+of yams and taro prepared. It was a most lovely day, and the sunshine

+overhead seemed to have found its way into every heart, for there was

+the greatest harmony and good will manifest on all sides. Men and women

+shared the burden of the day alike, and the result in the evening was a

+most grand spread of perfectly cooked food, more than sufficient for

+all the great number present. All shared alike, and the females had

+great junks of pork as well as the men. Formerly the women ate very

+little animal food, but now Christianity has broken down the middle wall

+of partition, and taught them that all are One in Christ. We came home

+in the evening, and dinnerless I had to go to bed with an attack of ague

+which lasted me far on into the hours of midnight. I did not go to

+Prayers, and indeed I don’t know what happened. There was a dance, I

+believe, but I didn’t hear anything of it.

+

+

+_Tuesday, October 26th._--Very weak and seedy all day--did not go out

+anywhere. However, I had lots of little things to do here at home, and I

+busied myself over them. Visitors from Uta came in the evening. The

+people told me they wanted to take away one of our women whose husband

+is just dead, but I refused and told them they had women enough already.

+They were very frightened I believe, and I don’t care, I trust they

+were, for I meant what I said. They are quite enough as they are to live

+and die in heathen darkness, while here the poor woman will have a

+chance at all events of hearing and living.

+

+

+_Wednesday, October 27th._--Beautiful day, but I was not particularly

+well to enjoy it. I was up betimes though, and got through our morning

+duties before breakfast.

+

+Perhaps this is not a wise plan, but it is more convenient and therefore

+I submit to it. You certainly get leisure and quiet afterwards, which

+one would fail to secure previously to Prayers and school. I like to

+give the people every opportunity of getting away early to their

+gardens, and therefore, perhaps, I sacrifice myself. Many people could

+not stand this going without breakfast so long, but it is a meal I was

+never very hearty at, and the want of which very strangely I feel the

+least.

+

+Our “Bush” friends brought down some prints for sale this morning, and

+there has been a tremendous competition for them. There were six yards

+of Turkey red handkerchief stuff, which were finally bought by a young

+married lady, “Ann,” for a large pig. The Bushmen still go

+“clothesless,” and returned Labourers find a ready market here for their

+linen goods, which they bring home from Queensland or Fiji. Pigs are of

+much more value to them, for of course they still keep up the old native

+custom of purchasing rank by means of these animals, while here now they

+are only looked upon as so much meat. I have been long trying to get a

+proper hold on these people, but I cannot flatter myself that I have yet

+succeeded very far. They live a long distance off, and the road is very

+inaccessible, but I trust in time they may be reached from hence. They

+are very amiable and very friendly, but they are somewhat terrified at

+anything new. However, they come here very often, and I don’t think they

+go away unprofited.

+

+

+_Thursday, October 28th._--Fine day with strong fresh Trade wind

+blowing. I was busy all day here at home doing little odds and ends of

+things preparatory to my anticipated visit from Mrs. Selwyn. The people

+were all away busy at their gardens, and I was left alone most of the

+day. I could not find time to get to Ruosi, so I went without my

+customary dip in the river.

+

+The people were all back in the evening, and their lively chatter and

+merriment were a pleasing contrast to the ghostly stillness which had

+reigned throughout the day. We had Prayers late because the people were

+late with their dinner.

+

+

+_Friday, October 29th._--Not a very fine day, and threatening for rain.

+Directly after school the people were away to their gardens, but three

+or four boys were working for me here. They felt the slight shock of an

+earthquake, but I did not perceive it. The undivided opinion here is

+that earthquakes are the precursors of rain, and often indeed I have

+known it so to result, but it seems rather an extraordinary law to lay

+down. However, there are abundant signs of a no very distant downpour,

+and the prophets may have a chance of being right in their present

+conjecture. We were very busy all day, but towards evening snatched time

+enough to go to Ruosi for a bathe. The rain kept off well, but there was

+a sprinkle in the evening, and evident signs of a great deal more before

+very long. I have felt the heat here very oppressive for the last few

+days, and by the appearance of the sky we must soon have some dirty

+weather with thunder.

+

+

+_Saturday, October 30th._--The storm came on us with a vengeance this

+morning at daylight, and kept on for a long time. At times the flashes

+and thunder peals seemed simultaneous, and the crashes were peculiarly

+heavy. I have never known a more severe storm in the Tropics, and as for

+the rain it simply poured down in torrents.

+

+I did not get up till late, and Mattins were later than usual. However,

+being a holiday it did not so much matter. In my house it was as dark as

+night, and all day it has been very sombre and dull. Rain has kept on

+continuously all the time, and it has been impossible to move out. The

+people, however, in spite of wet and dirt are up and about, and do not

+seem to mind the weather. Many here, indeed, prefer the rain to the sun

+for making journeys and doing certain works. Rain does not seem to give

+them cold or ague, and I suppose that custom has become second nature.

+

+I could not get out all day except to my duties, and these wet days at

+home are somewhat trying, especially when you are anxious to be about.

+It was somewhat finer in the evening at Prayer time, and we had a good

+congregation, but it did pour down while we were at service, and this

+gave us a good excuse for a long singing practice.

+

+

+_Sunday, October 31st._--Another wet and intensely disagreeable day.

+However, there were spells of fine weather, and during those we

+performed our duties. School came first with a full house, the elder

+classes saying the Collect for the day and the Church Catechism, and

+answering questions on the former, the juniors reading from school books

+and large printed sheets. When school was over I was quite prepared for

+breakfast, and eschewed rice for once in a way for prawns which the boys

+brought me. Sometime after breakfast we had Mattins, a very nice service

+and especially well attended. I experienced much distress of mind from

+the illness of my friend “Virelumlum,” the Opa chief who came over with

+me. He has been very ill all day with acute inflammation of the lungs,

+and we have had to keep hot water applications going, off and on, all

+day. He moans for home, too, and there is no chance of getting him

+there. While at Opa, A. P. Huqe was so ill, and here now I have my other

+visitor a patient on my hands. In the evening I was down myself with

+ague and could not go to Church, and had no dinner.

+

+

+_Monday, November 1st._--Terribly stormy, rough night, and a most

+unpleasant day, the disagreeableness of which was not decreased by the

+continued serious illness of my visitor Virelumlum. All day yesterday

+and again to-day it has been a continual anxiety and care to me, and I

+have been dabbling about in the mud and wet dancing attendance upon him.

+He has quite a serious attack of inflammation of the lungs, and I have

+had to keep hot flannels going almost continuously, and rack my brains

+to find out what to give him to keep up his rapidly decreasing strength.

+In addition to his sickness he has developed a craving for home, and a

+strong impression that he is going to die here, which with natives

+sometimes is actually equivalent to mean that they will not recover, and

+when a native makes up his mind to die, he in most cases does die. There

+is no remote possibility of getting my friend home in such weather as

+we are having, and he is killing himself with worry. If the weather were

+fine I would willingly take him across to Opa in my boat, but that is

+scarcely possible in a gale of wind and a downpour of rain. On the whole

+it has been a most anxious and unpleasant day. Being “All Saints’” Day I

+gave an address in the evening instead of School, and no one, I fancy,

+was sorry to be indoors out of the cold and wet. I had to paddle off

+after every one was quietly within doors to feed my patient and make him

+comfortable for the night.

+

+

+_Tuesday, November 2nd._--A most terrible night, wherein it blew with

+almost hurricane violence in the squalls, with a perfect deluge of rain

+accompanied by heavy thunder and lightning. I was not sorry or

+ungrateful to be brought safely to the beginning of another day. My

+first business when I got up, was to trudge off to my patient, whom,

+thank God, I found better, but all day long since I have had to look

+after him, for he is no exception to the idiocy of all natives, who when

+they feel a bit better, rush off and do some extraordinarily foolish

+thing. It was a terrible day throughout, and I was so fortunate in

+keeping my man within doors, that this evening he was visibly on the

+mend, and likely to make a good and I hope a rapid recovery. I read him

+a most strong lecture this morning about his craving for home, and told

+him he could not possibly get there in this weather, and that he was

+better where he was even if he could. I said he never would recover if

+he went on distressing himself about getting home, and told him that he

+was killing me too, by continually crying for what he could not possibly

+obtain. And what a lot of spilt milk I have cried over these last few

+days in my regret at having brought a big man here at all. But the

+inutility of weeping is more apparent to me than his crying for home is

+to him. I can hardly say what I have done to-day either to benefit

+anyone else or myself. This evening I have turned away from my dinner,

+leaving it untasted, and I feel that I must go to bed.

+

+

+_Wednesday, November 3rd._--An attack of ague last night has made me

+feel weak and good for nothing this morning. However, I had to get up,

+and the prospect outside was as dismal as ever. Rain and wind and

+gloominess. My patient, thank God, is most decidedly better, and if he

+takes care of himself will do very well now. I have had a fire in my

+house all day, and with Dr. Codrington’s book on the Melanesian

+languages, have got on very pleasantly. I should like, however, to see a

+little sunshine, and one has a right to expect it now in the height of

+summer. I am dreadfully afraid Mrs. Selwyn’s visit to me will be

+impossible, when the ship arrives the roads will be so impassable.

+Towards evening it cleared a bit and I was able to move out, but

+generally speaking, everyone has been kept close prisoner to-day. The

+people who always seem to me to love paddling about in the wet,

+expressed a strong disinclination to move from their houses, and in the

+absence of other occupation or amusement, have been asleep most of the

+day I fancy. A native’s capacity for sleep is unbounded, and perhaps a

+fortunate thing for him, but he can wake at any time, day or night, and

+get up straight away. We had our usual Evensong and singing class, the

+weather keeping fairer until we had all got indoors again in our several

+houses, when down came the rain. There is a sweet, lulling, comfortable

+sound in rain when you are safe indoors, or perchance in bed, and sleep

+seems to come unwooed. I practice here what I seldom do anywhere else,

+read in bed, and far on in the stillness of the solemn night, I read on

+and on with keen enjoyment and a sense of rest, for one gets tired of

+sitting in a land devoid of easy chairs and sofas. The usual posture of

+a native is to squat on his heels or else to recline, naturally our high

+seats are foreign and uncanny to them. I cannot myself squat for any

+length of time, and at times I sigh for the comfort of a good easy

+chair.

+

+

+_Thursday, November 4th._--Very wet, dispiriting morning, and

+threatening for another stormy day. It cleared off, however, and barring

+showers we have had a fine day.

+

+A most interesting ceremony took place here to-day called “uli meroana,”

+(_i.e._ “untieing war.”) The event ought to have come off long ago, but

+the chief actors in the sad drama which led to its necessity have been

+somewhat dilatory. Sometime since the natives of “uta” (the inland as

+distinguished from the shore) attacked a village in our district and

+killed three people. They were the agressors and the sole actors--the

+people did nothing but pack up their goods and clear out, some flying in

+one direction and some in another. The majority took refuge in this part

+of the island and have never done anything in the way of retaliation,

+but have always gone armed since and been on the alert, not with the

+object of revenging their injuries, but from fear of further attack.

+

+However, thank God, all has been quiet since, and the Uta people have

+the fire coals so heavily heaped on their head, that being first in

+agression they have been the first to make amends. They came down

+yesterday in great numbers, all armed, of course, and bringing three

+pigs with them. Our people were all present too, very fully armed, and

+also bringing three pigs. The chief man on the Uta side and the attacker

+stood out in the open with his pig, and the chief among the injured

+stepped out, and walking around the pig took it from the other, first

+passing his hand over the pig’s back and head and the rope he was held

+with, and then delivering the scape pig to the injured. This was done

+thrice, _i.e._ with each several pig. Then the ceremony was changed to

+our side and the like performance gone through, and the pigs delivered

+one by one to the attackers. There was thus a mutual exchange and no one

+was the loser, indeed so far from it that had the pigs been made for the

+occasion and cast in the same mould, they could scarcely have been more

+of a size, shape, and colour. It would seem, according to our ideas, as

+if the aggressors ought to have paid all the pigs without receiving any

+in exchange, but no, native custom seems to be different, and a fair

+exchange must be made. After the pigs had been delivered, there was some

+speechifying and a good deal of after talkey-talkey, and the quondam

+enemies became the best of friends. I hope they will continue so, I am

+sure, and I think they will. I made a little speech, in which I

+glorified peace and good-will, and denounced fighting and bloodshed. I

+have never seen such a concourse of people in Maewo, certainly, and the

+place perfectly bristled with guns and poisoned arrows. The natives,

+although they seem somewhat careless with these weapons, are really very

+careful, and an accident seldom or never happens through carelessness. I

+do not like the poisoned arrows, and keep clear always of them, for the

+smallest prod from one would most probably prove fatal. Very soon the

+vast concourse had dispersed, and the pigs, the mediators, were escorted

+off to their new places of residence, but I do not fancy they felt the

+weight of the aggressor’s repentance, or the forgiveness of the

+attacked. A small coal of inward anger would very soon kindle again the

+blaze of war, for after all I fancy there is not much love lost between

+the two parties. With one of my Opa boys I came back here to get my

+towels, and then made a start for Ruosi and Kerepei, being anxious to

+bathe, and also to see the road the boys have made for Mrs. Selwyn’s

+feet to tread in. I must say after my observation of it, that if her

+anticipated visits everywhere have the same effect of causing people to

+mend their ways, she may well be satisfied with her trip down here. The

+road was not good before, neither is it perfect now, but the boys have

+certainly made a most passable track, the question is whether a lady

+can manage the first steep climb. In anticipation of this, they have

+strained a strong climbing reed, like the rail of a balustrade, and by

+this it is hoped she may be able to ascend. The road otherwise is now

+very good. A delicious bath at Ruosi was made doubly delicious by some

+days’ privation, and my present liquid condition.

+

+We got home here in the evening, and I dined very late, but with much

+more of an appetite than I have had for some time. In the evening A. P.

+Huqe being laid up, I gave an address at Evensong, instead of school.

+

+

+_Friday, November 5th._--The glorious 5th November, Guy Fawkes, of

+unhappy memory! Very wet night, but fairly fine day. People very busy

+to-day, so they asked me to relinquish school, which I did. I made

+preparations for photographing a pretty part of the river, but the rain

+came down and I had to give it up. However, my dry plates are at an end,

+and the few I have left I must keep for a peradventure of something good

+before I leave.

+

+

+_Saturday, November 6th._--Squally, unsettled sort of day, after a very

+rough night. Great preparations were being made here in the morning, for

+the Bishop’s and Mrs. Selwyn’s advent. When it was done I went with the

+boys to Ruosi, where I sat and watched their sports and gambols in the

+water, and thought how the one touch of nature makes the whole world

+kin. Human nature and boy nature is the same everywhere, and these boys

+are just like every other boy except in colour. They had a great spur of

+fun and frolic, and boy-like pleasure produced no languor or

+tediousness. I made a descent to “Wosawosa,” and looked in vain for the

+ship.

+

+Back and dined, and everything as usual.

+

+

+_Sunday, November 7th._--The Mission schooner arrived with all on board

+well. After Morning Prayer I went down to the vessel, but it was too

+dirty for Mrs. Selwyn to come up to the village, but in the evening Mr.

+Cullwick came back to Tanrig and spent the night with me. The account of

+the work in the islands farther North, was very cheering, and it had a

+fresh and charming meaning, as told by Mrs. Selwyn in the full

+enthusiasm of her first voyage into these new but beautiful regions. The

+evening services in our little native Church was a sad and solemn one,

+for I said my public farewell to the people, in prospect of my leaving

+them for a long time, inasmuch as it was decided for me to go to

+England. Mr. Cullwick was very much struck with the beauty of the

+service, and the devotion of the worshippers. When we bid them “Good

+night” they all said, “Ah! this will be the last good night for a long,

+long time.”

+

+

+_Monday, November 8th._--The Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn came to stay with me

+at Tanrig. It was fortunately a most beautiful day, and Mrs. Selwyn,

+partly carried and partly on foot, made the journey without any great

+fatigue. Of her visit, she herself no doubt will write.

+

+

+_Tuesday, November 9th._--We stood across to Opa, distant about

+twenty-five miles from this part of Maewo. The people were in floods of

+tears at the final parting, and a general wail went up from all, as the

+boat drew off from the shore. At Opa we anchored for the night.

+

+

+_Wednesday, November 10th._--The Bishop and I were rowed ashore early,

+and examined the school at Lotahimamavi. This is as yet in embryo, but

+the people were very nice and most friendly, and seemed quite in earnest

+about their school duties. A proper school house has yet to be built,

+but this they have undertaken to do as soon as they have dug their yams.

+Their yam digging answers to our harvest. Leaving this place we went on

+board the _Southern Cross_ to breakfast, and afterwards to examine the

+school at Tavolavola. The Bishop was much pleased with the state of this

+school, and the great proficiency attained to by some of the young

+scholars. Prizes of knives, calico, beads, fish-hooks, &c., were

+distributed and then we went to Lobaha, another school. Before leaving

+Tavolavola, Mrs. Selwyn was anxious to see how the natives got up the

+coconut trees. There are no branches of course, to hold on to, and many

+natives tie a cord around their feet, and some use an ingenious

+arrangement with cord for their hands. But these natives go up hand over

+hand without any help or assistance. The lad in question was up the

+tree, had thrown down green coconuts, and descended again with wonderful

+and astonishing rapidity, with nothing on his hands or feet.

+

+Before we got to Lobaha it began to rain heavily, and I was overtaken

+with a fit of ague, and had to lie shivering on the beach while the

+Bishop went alone to examine the school. It poured in torrents all the

+way home, and I was very miserable.

+

+

+_Thursday, November 11th._--Away early from Opa and started for Araga,

+distant over twenty miles from this part of Opa. There the school was

+examined, and we left in the evening for the South end of the island.

+This we reached on

+

+

+_Friday, November 12th_, the Bishop going ashore in a strong gale of

+wind, and in pelting rain, to examine the school and bring off Mr.

+Brittain, who had been spending some days there. They were not long

+before both were on board, and Mr. Brittain, thank God, quite well.

+

+When the boat was hauled up we stood out to sea, and so on our homeward

+journey for Norfolk Island, which we reached after a stormy but quick

+passage on November 18th, and found all well at home. “Praise thou the

+Lord Oh! my soul, and forget not all His benefits.”

+

+

+

+

+                           REV. A. BRITTAIN.

+

+

+For the year 1886 my contribution will be concerned with the time

+between April 3rd and November 18th. On the former date the _Southern

+Cross_ left Norfolk Island on the first trip of the year, and on the

+latter we reached it again at the end of our voyaging season. I had

+never before left for the islands on the first voyage, but our plans

+gave me a longer stay than usual. My own island, Araga, was to take up

+the usual time, but I was to make a stay also in the Bank’s Islands,

+which would be out of the ordinary course. As it turned out, however,

+the arrangements were of necessity altered, and no stay was made in the

+Bank’s Islands.

+

+The _Southern Cross_ left Norfolk Island with a wind very strong, but

+altogether fair. None of the regular Araga boys were on board, as they

+were to return home on the second voyage, according to our plan. One

+lad, however, we had with us, whose presence in the _Southern Cross_ was

+quite out of the ordinary course. The explanation concerning him will

+show something of the individual efforts made in various places to give

+some sort of instruction to those who are taken from our islands to work

+on the plantations and elsewhere. On the whole they are simply

+neglected, with the result that they return home having learnt almost

+all the vices, and none whatever of the virtues, of the white man.

+Personal interest has in some cases induced thought and work for their

+benefit. In Sydney was one instance of this. The visit of a young lady

+to Norfolk Island on the occasion of the Consecration of the Memorial

+Chapel increased her interest in the Mission, and on her return to

+Sydney she sought some kindred work. A class was established for natives

+from the islands engaged in different kinds of work in the city, and it

+has proved most successful. Several of the lads are from our own

+islands, and as it has happened that the Bishop has been in Sydney at

+convenient times, he has twice held Baptisms of members of the Class.

+One of these Baptized lads made a request that he might be taken home

+in the _Southern Cross_. His home was Araga, and he came to Norfolk

+Island in readiness for the first voyage of the _Southern Cross_. It was

+apparently five or six years since he had been taken away in a labour

+vessel to Noumea, whence he had found it possible to make a move to

+Sydney. And this was the end of his life in foreign countries--he was

+returning home a Christian, with, in some respects, a surprising

+knowledge, with a perfectly good character from all who knew him, and

+with a great desire to do something for the benefit of his

+fellow-countrymen. All that had hitherto been done in Araga is in the

+northern part of the island, the remainder of the island being partially

+known only, while the extreme southern end was quite unknown and

+inaccessible. The lad, Thomas Rorsal, gave us to understand that his

+village was right in the south, close to the neighbouring island of

+Ambrym, and we had then the prospect of breaking into new parts.

+

+On April 8th, that is on the fifth day from Norfolk Island, we were in

+the passage between Araga and Ambrym. A boat was lowered, Tom’s

+belongings placed in it, and we pulled in shore to find his village,

+which he could not distinguish from the vessel. A clump of cocoa-nuts

+was recognised by him, and at last we pulled into a good sandy beach

+with very good landing, where a crowd had already collected for our

+reception. Their returning brother was at once recognised, and his goods

+shouldered with great readiness. The Bishop’s bad foot forbade his

+leaving the boat, but I landed and went up with the people to their

+village, which was quite close at hand, though invisible from the beach

+owing to the very thick bush. Tom had previously expressed his

+determination to build a house for school purposes as soon as possible,

+and I, through him, told the people of our plans and something of what

+we hoped to do among them. We thereupon, in consequence of the readiness

+they expressed, chose a convenient site for the house, and I promised to

+make a boat voyage to them as soon as I could conveniently get away from

+the northern district. It was evident that there could not be a great

+population in the immediate neighbourhood, as there was only a small

+level tract lying off the beach, backed up by somewhat high hills, which

+would doubtless form a separate district from the beach villages.

+

+On the next day, the 9th, we arrived at the north end of the island,

+having been almost becalmed on the way thither. The _Southern Cross_

+anchored, my belongings were put together, and in two or three hours I

+landed at the usual place, and was at home again at Qatvenua. It was not

+a bright reception--the unusual quietness all about, the absence of the

+usual vociferous greetings, and the depressed looks of the teachers were

+not enlivening, and it was easily seen that there were unpleasant

+tidings to be heard. Gradually all became known. With regard to the

+chief school at Qatvenua the report was altogether favourable. It had

+decidedly advanced. Several outside adults, who had hitherto kept aloof

+from us, had come forward and joined themselves to our congregation, and

+the ordinary work had proceeded quite satisfactorily. But the other two

+schools in the district had met with interruptions, and one was in a

+state of temporary suspense. The cause of all was the fruitful source of

+trouble to us, the labour vessel. Some short time before one had visited

+that part, and a party of men and lads, almost entirely baptized or

+scholars, had departed in her. It was all to be put down to one man who

+had been of some importance. He had done wrong, and to avoid the

+retribution that in some form or other would have fallen upon him, he

+decided to leave the place, and then persuaded some of these men to

+accompany him, and the rest followed them. Amongst them was the teacher

+who had been in charge of the school at Lamoru, whose going was a great

+surprise, as he had always been so quiet and well-conducted. Fortunately

+his helpers were able to continue the school work by themselves without

+any intermittence. At the other place, Vathuqe, the school was closed

+for a time, as there was no one to take the erring teacher’s place. He

+had been left there with some misgivings, as he was not of equal

+standing with the teachers generally, but it was thought that his zeal

+and expressed desire for the post would be equal to the demand made upon

+his steadfastness. Some of the others that embarked were his relatives,

+and so he had the unusual temptation before him, and gave way to it.

+

+My first fortnight on shore was spent at Qatvenua. The landing was done

+in very unfavourable weather. It rained very heavily, and the very steep

+path leading up to the school village, bad enough in fine weather, was

+extremely troublesome for carrying up my goods and chattels, and they

+got very wet. My own little house was not in good condition, and until

+we repaired it I slept in the large boys’ house.

+

+Within a day or two we pulled some little distance down the coast to a

+small bay, where I heard some white man had been recently buried. We saw

+his grave, with an inscription, and in time I heard the story of his

+death. No outrage on labour vessels has been made or attempted in Araga

+for several years, but in January, as it appeared, when a vessel from

+Samoa was visiting some place about thirty miles down the coast, one man

+was shot by a native as he was on shore with several others from the

+vessel bathing. It must be said that this man, a German, showed a great

+lack of wisdom in his behaviour. The native had come down some distance

+from the hills under the impression that his two wives, who had

+disappeared, were on board the vessel then to be seen lying at anchor,

+and in his rage the man was shot, while all the time the women were

+elsewhere. The body was brought up along the coast, and buried near our

+station. The whole affair had caused much excitement, even at the

+Northern end of the island. Some time after the place was visited by a

+German man-of-war, with results that will be spoken of further on.

+

+The great man to the South, Viradoro, expressed his continued desire for

+us to do something in his part, and we visited him several times, and

+were well received and listened to always. There is a lad at Norfolk

+Island who has connections with this place, and when they make a

+beginning at a school-house we may begin work with him as teacher, but I

+decline to put him there, as they desire, before this is done. Within a

+fortnight of my going ashore two labour vessels anchored near us, one

+from New Caledonia, and the other from Fiji. In the latter there

+departed a young son, quite a small boy, of Viradoro’s, whom I had hoped

+to take to Norfolk Island some time or other. His father was greatly put

+out by his being taken away.

+

+I had decided to remain at Qatvenua until Good Friday, and then to go on

+to Tanrig in Maewo for Easter. There are several communicants there, and

+I should have taken the Araga communicants with me that we might have

+our Easter Communion together. During the whole of Holy Week the weather

+was bad, and I feared that our voyage would not be practicable. On the

+Saturday, when we should have left, there was a strong wind blowing from

+the North, which would have been dead against us, with continuous rain,

+and there was no possibility of our going. Our Easter, however, was very

+pleasant, and the joyful hymns told of really joyful Christian hearts.

+

+In Easter week we left for my first visit to Wonor, the village at the

+Southern end where we had put Rorsal ashore. My intention and

+arrangements for going there caused much talk. The distance would be

+nearly forty miles, and I suppose no one had been more than half that

+distance down the coast, and it was thought to be a very long journey.

+More talked of even than the distance, however, was the belief that

+attaches itself to a particular place at the extreme Southern end. To

+this place were supposed to go all the spirits of the departed, and to

+remain there in some sort of community. Of all places in Araga,

+therefore, it is the one of the greatest superstitious interest and

+fear, and many of my chosen boat’s crew’s relatives did their best to

+dissuade them from accompanying me, but without effect. We started on

+the appointed day, and as I knew we could not do the whole distance in

+one day, as we went along the coast we made several calls at the

+villages as they appeared, and fixed upon one not quite half-way, known

+to some of the men, in which to pass the night. Our various stoppages,

+however, so delayed us, that it became clear that we should not reach

+our destination before night, and so when, upon rounding a point, we

+came upon a labour vessel quietly at anchor, and were hospitably invited

+on board for the night, I thought it wise to take advantage of it. It

+was a Fijian vessel with a number of men on board, lately recruited, and

+a Government agent whom I had met before. We passed the night quietly at

+least, though not comfortably for any of us, and pulled away in the

+morning, very grateful for the hospitality shown to us, and resumed our

+journey. The evening found us ashore at Wonor, where there was

+considerable excitement over our landing. Although the place is quite

+open to the prevailing Trade wind, a reef and a sand bank that lie off

+the shore shelter it quite effectually, and make the landing on the

+shelving beach easy and pleasant. In the fortnight that had elapsed

+since our calling here only a little had been done towards building the

+school-house. The site was cleared of all its timber, and some of the

+posts were ready. During our stay we had therefore to sleep in the men’s

+common house, which, being much smaller than is usual in the northern

+part of the island, we found rather inconvenient. On the whole our visit

+of a week was a great success, and it excited much interest. The house

+was proceeded with with great vigour, and all the people in the district

+showed a very friendly spirit, making things look bright and promising

+for the future. Thomas was doing all he could in the way of teaching,

+and his Scripture Picture Books were all well thumbed. I confined my

+doings to the immediate neighbourhood, and saw but little of the

+adjacent country, though the report of our sojourn caused people to come

+from a great distance to Wonor, and they were very desirous of being

+visited. My boat’s crew were thoroughly well treated, and feasted to a

+great extent, and our entertainers did us the honour of dancing to us

+one evening. I had not intended to make a long stay this time, and

+having made some arrangements in the North, which required my presence,

+we left at the appointed time, in spite of the pressing invitation for a

+longer stay. Our return journey was accomplished with a little

+difficulty. The ordinary winds would have taken us back pleasantly in a

+day, but we fell in with a contrary wind halfway up the coast, and were

+delayed. Some time after night-fall we decided to land at a village then

+quite close, but the tide being out the reef was uncovered, and not

+wishing to have the boat injured we continued on our way, and at last

+reached our own beach, after very hard pulling, two or three hours

+before the dawn of the new day. It was not surprising that some of the

+lads should be knocked up for a time after this, but it was thought to

+be quite in accordance with the character of the place visited, that

+they were all, one after the other, laid up for varying periods. It did

+really seem peculiar that it should so happen at this particular time,

+when so much was being said about the superstition connected with the

+southern part.

+

+After this there was a month’s stay at the two Northern schools. At

+Lamoru a new house was built, larger and in better style than the old

+one which had seen the beginning of the work, and new arrangements were

+made concerning the teaching staff. At Qatvenua also repairs were made

+to the various buildings, and a boat-house, sufficient for the purpose,

+but not of any great size or beauty, was erected on the beach. The whole

+of this time was more or less wet, and there was much sickness all

+through the district. The infants suffered most, and very many died,

+several being children of our congregations. A girl also died, one of

+the two belonging to this place who had been to Norfolk Island. She had

+been declining for about a year, and my attempts to improve her health

+failed. Her lengthened sickness tried the patience of her friends

+greatly, and it was suggested once or twice by relatives that her end

+should be hastened. By these who made this suggestion it was of course

+believed that the illness was due to some unfriendly person’s charms,

+who would be rejoicing at seeing her suffering. One of our Catechumens

+lost his only child, a very engaging little boy, and his account of how

+he prayed that it might recover, and how he felt when death came, and

+his prayer seemed to be in vain, was very touching. This child he had

+been in the habit of bringing frequently for me to see, and when I once

+gave him some beads for it, he was delighted. These, he told me

+afterwards, he had buried with him.

+

+On June 5 the _Southern Cross_ returned to me again from the Northern

+islands, and I went on board to be put on shore at Wonor. It was my

+intention to go there to stay until the vessel’s return again from the

+South, which would be in about six weeks’ time. Two boys were to

+accompany me for the stay, and I took my boat. We could not land until

+the next day, after spending an unpleasant night on board. On pulling

+in, the school-house appeared well on to completion, showing that they

+had been working well at it since my last visit. It was not possible yet

+to sleep in it, so I spread my rug again in the men’s house, but we

+assembled the people together in the school-house for such instruction

+and talking as were found possible. A large party of Ambrym men was

+weather-bound here. Their home was plainly visible, about seven or eight

+miles distant, but across a very disturbed passage. They had already

+been here ten days, and were anxious to return. They had a sorrowful

+tale to tell. A short time before they had come over from Ambrym to go

+on an ordinary bartering expedition along our coast, and when the German

+man-of-war, the Albatross, mentioned above, arrived to avenge the death

+of the man who was killed in the beginning of the year, they happened to

+be at the very place. Naturally they thought themselves quite safe from

+any attack, and sat quietly on the beach awaiting the arrival of the

+boat. They all knew that the culprit was in a village two or three miles

+away on the hills, and they were prepared to assist in punishing him.

+Suddenly however, without any warning, they were fired upon more than

+once from some of the big guns of the ship. They at once fled in great

+fear, and did not know until the evening, when they ventured out of the

+bush again, what had been the result of the firing. One poor fellow had

+part of one leg blown away, and was found lying in great agony. A day or

+two after he died. Having thus fired and cleared the place of all

+people, a large number of men went ashore from the man-of-war, and

+succeeded in killing a few pigs, and in burning down the large men’s

+house of the place, which belonged to perfectly innocent and unconcerned

+people. Such a proceeding is not calculated to induce in the people any

+thoughts either of the justice or of the courage of the white man. It

+was a very weary time for them while waiting at Wonor, before reaching

+home to tell of their missing brother, and it was not pleasant for the

+people of Wonor, as the vessel had picked up two lads of the place as

+guides, and they were on board when the firing occurred.

+

+Instead of spending six weeks at this place we spent only ten days. They

+were busy days, as we all worked at the house, and as I could not get

+about very much to the neighbouring villages, I had to content myself

+with talking to the people as they came about us. It soon became evident

+that my two boys from the North were very home-sick. One I discovered

+sitting in the dark one evening crying, and although they said nothing I

+could see what they wished. I therefore decided to return with them, and

+after some little difficulty got a crew together. We started on a not

+very promising morning, but did not go far before the hearts of the

+Wonor men failed them entirely. There was a good breeze blowing, and

+some sea on, and the prospect of a long journey before them, and they

+formally requested to be allowed to return. It would have been very

+awkward to get back in the boat, as both wind and sea were dead against

+us, so I decided to put them ashore at a convenient spot, and continued

+the journey with the two boys. We had a fair wind, but rain commenced

+and continued at intervals all through the day. At last we reached our

+destination as evening came on, and never was home more welcome. Our

+wonderful journey, as it was thought, with only three in the boat,

+caused much talk. Had the wind failed us we should have been in a great

+difficulty, but as it was we did the forty miles without much labour. I

+hoped to be able to get a crew together, and to go South again to

+complete my stay, but we were over-ruled. Three or four days after

+reaching Qatvenua the place was greatly disturbed on hearing that a

+large canoe, which had left Maewo with Araga people in it more than a

+week before, had not been seen or heard of. They were either drowned or

+had been blown over to Opa. After a day or two more of suspense I

+decided to go to Opa to enquire. It was a relief to everybody when we

+started, and the people at home rejoiced greatly when they saw our

+signal fires in the evening to let them know that we had found the

+missing ones. It was so--they had been blown away from Araga, and could

+do nothing but steer for Opa. We remained there one night, and a Trader

+who lives there kindly gave the hospitality, and next day we started on

+our return with some of the canoe crew. A night had to be spent on the

+way at Maewo, but early the next morning we reached home. This was on

+Friday, and on the evening of the next day I commenced to be unwell,

+and continued so for three weeks. All plans came to nought, as I found

+it impossible to get rid of the ague and consequent fever, and only now

+and then could I manage to rise at all. The arrival of the _Southern

+Cross_ on July 17 was therefore very welcome, and I went on board at

+once. All plans as regards the Bank’s Islands had to be given up, and

+instead of my staying for a time in Mr. Palmer’s district at Mota and

+Motalav, as I had anticipated with great pleasure, I was forced to see

+the wisdom of remaining on board for the voyage up to the Solomon

+Islands. Much of great interest occurred during the voyage, but the

+greatest event was a visit we paid to Nukapu, where the Memorial cross

+for Bishop Patteson had been erected two years previously. It was found

+to be well cared for, the people were more than friendly, were most

+hospitable, and there are bright hopes of something being done ere long

+in the place where the Martyr’s death occurred.

+

+I improved so much during the trip that on our arrival in the New

+Hebrides again, I decided to continue my stay in Araga. I was on shore

+therefore again from September 14 to November 12, and all the places

+were visited, and I was no more hindered by bad health. Wonor advanced

+most satisfactorily: my later visit found the house completed and quite

+fit to sleep in, and I saw much of the surrounding districts and people.

+At Lamoru we had the only adult Baptism of the year--five men were

+Baptized after much preparation and a long time of trial. November 18

+found us again off Norfolk Island, and the Island Voyages were a thing

+of the past for 1886.

+

+

+NETHERTON AND WORTH, PRINTERS, TRURO.

+

+

+

+

+

+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of Residence in the New

+Hebrides, S.W. Pacific Ocean, by C. Bice and A. Brittain

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