diff options
| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 05:26:11 -0700 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 05:26:11 -0700 |
| commit | da5745c097177f60c0a1a376f4c8ad7225ca7d36 (patch) | |
| tree | 4a7e13e6c7c30118b69f8eb1bd5c6bf5cf932139 /5786-h | |
Diffstat (limited to '5786-h')
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/5786-h.htm | 3562 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/Moses.jpg | bin | 0 -> 88746 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/Portrait.jpg | bin | 0 -> 46768 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/Titlepage.jpg | bin | 0 -> 42816 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/cover.jpg | bin | 0 -> 235483 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p016.jpg | bin | 0 -> 84404 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p302.jpg | bin | 0 -> 44821 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p303.jpg | bin | 0 -> 59388 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p305.jpg | bin | 0 -> 63564 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p307.jpg | bin | 0 -> 38670 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p308.jpg | bin | 0 -> 21668 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p309.jpg | bin | 0 -> 80303 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p313.jpg | bin | 0 -> 52622 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p314.jpg | bin | 0 -> 33759 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p317.jpg | bin | 0 -> 68322 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p319.jpg | bin | 0 -> 37263 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p322.jpg | bin | 0 -> 18763 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p324.jpg | bin | 0 -> 26477 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p325.jpg | bin | 0 -> 62878 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p326.jpg | bin | 0 -> 50342 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p327.jpg | bin | 0 -> 75554 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p330.jpg | bin | 0 -> 49994 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p331.jpg | bin | 0 -> 39675 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p333.jpg | bin | 0 -> 81303 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p333b.jpg | bin | 0 -> 26381 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p334.jpg | bin | 0 -> 28005 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p335.jpg | bin | 0 -> 76244 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p338.jpg | bin | 0 -> 93552 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p339.jpg | bin | 0 -> 24540 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p341.jpg | bin | 0 -> 20900 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p342.jpg | bin | 0 -> 62341 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p344.jpg | bin | 0 -> 112099 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p346.jpg | bin | 0 -> 26534 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p349.jpg | bin | 0 -> 86558 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p351.jpg | bin | 0 -> 41741 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p352.jpg | bin | 0 -> 66274 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p354.jpg | bin | 0 -> 22962 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p357.jpg | bin | 0 -> 26532 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p360.jpg | bin | 0 -> 43368 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p361.jpg | bin | 0 -> 43412 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p362.jpg | bin | 0 -> 66848 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p363.jpg | bin | 0 -> 54529 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p364.jpg | bin | 0 -> 23457 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p366.jpg | bin | 0 -> 41277 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p367.jpg | bin | 0 -> 39021 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p369.jpg | bin | 0 -> 33725 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p371.jpg | bin | 0 -> 11161 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p373.jpg | bin | 0 -> 48034 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p375.jpg | bin | 0 -> 54300 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p376.jpg | bin | 0 -> 78247 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p379.jpg | bin | 0 -> 19536 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p380.jpg | bin | 0 -> 23686 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p382.jpg | bin | 0 -> 46510 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p383.jpg | bin | 0 -> 101151 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p386.jpg | bin | 0 -> 52405 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p387.jpg | bin | 0 -> 19794 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p388.jpg | bin | 0 -> 33725 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p389.jpg | bin | 0 -> 94336 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p392.jpg | bin | 0 -> 22664 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p393.jpg | bin | 0 -> 25521 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p394.jpg | bin | 0 -> 39680 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p395.jpg | bin | 0 -> 91008 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p399.jpg | bin | 0 -> 44923 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 5786-h/images/p400.jpg | bin | 0 -> 8315 bytes |
64 files changed, 3562 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/5786-h/5786-h.htm b/5786-h/5786-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..089f67b --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/5786-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,3562 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<title>A TRAMP ABROAD, BY MARK TWAIN, Part 5</title> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> + + +<style type="text/css"> + <!-- + body {background:#faebd7; margin:10%; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; + margin-top: .75em; + margin-bottom: .75em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; } + HR { width: 33%; text-align: center; } + blockquote {font-size: 97% } + .figleft {float: left;} + .figright {float: right;} + .toc { margin-left: 15%; margin-bottom: 0em;} + CENTER { padding: 10px;} + // --> +</style> + + +</head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Tramp Abroad, by Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens) + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Tramp Abroad + Part 5 + +Author: Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens) + +Release Date: June 2004 [EBook #5786] +Posting Date: June 2, 2009 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A TRAMP ABROAD *** + + + + +Produced by Anonymous Volunteers, John Greenman and David Widger + + + + + +</pre> + + +<h2>A TRAMP ABROAD, Part 5</h2> + + +<center> +<table summary="" cellPadding=4 border=3> +<tr><td> + + + <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/5785/5785-h/5785-h.htm">Previous Part</a> +</td><td> + <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/5787/5787-h/5787-h.htm">Next Part</a> + + + + +</td></tr> +</table> +</center> + + + + +<br><br><br><br> + +<center><a name="cover"></a><img alt="cover.jpg (229K)" src="images/cover.jpg" height="745" width="652"> +</center> + + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="Portrait"></a><img alt="Portrait.jpg (45K)" src="images/Portrait.jpg" height="1051" width="605"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + + + +<center><a name="Moses"></a><img alt="Moses.jpg (86K)" src="images/Moses.jpg" height="949" width="565"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + + + +<center><a name="Titlepage"></a><img alt="Titlepage.jpg (41K)" src="images/Titlepage.jpg" height="1029" width="645"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + + + +<br><br> +<center> +<a name="p016"></a> +<img alt="p016 (82K)" src="images/p016.jpg" height="817" width="535" /> +</center> +<br><br> + + <center> <h1>A TRAMP ABROAD, Part 5.</h1> + + <h2>By Mark Twain</h2> + <h3>(Samuel L. Clemens)</h3> + + <h3>First published in 1880</h3> + + <h3>Illustrations taken from an 1880 First Edition</h3> + + * * * * * * +</center> + +<br><br><br><br> +<h2>ILLUSTRATIONS:</h2> + +<center> +<table summary=""> +<tr><td> + + +<br> +1. <a href="#Portrait">PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR</a><br> +2. <a href="#Moses">TITIAN'S MOSES</a><br> +3. <a href="#p016">THE AUTHOR'S MEMORIES</a><br> +178. <a href="#p302">EXCEEDINGLY COMFORTABLE</a> <br> +179. <a href="#p303">THE SUNRISE</a> <br> +180. <a href="#p305">THE RIGI-KULM</a> <br> +181. <a href="#p307">AN OPTICAL ILLUSION</a> <br> +182. <a href="#p308">TAIL PIECE</a> <br> +183. <a href="#p309">RAILWAY DOWN THE MOUNTAIN</a> <br> +184. <a href="#p313">SOURCE OF THE RHONE</a> <br> +185. <a href="#p314">A GLACIER TABLE</a> <br> +186. <a href="#p317">GLACIER OF GRINDELWALD</a> <br> +187. <a href="#p319">DAWN ON THE MOUNTAINS</a> <br> +188. <a href="#p322">TAIL PIECE</a> <br> +189. <a href="#p324">NEW AND OLD STYLE</a> <br> +190. <a href="#p325">ST NICHOLAS, AS A HERMIT</a> <br> +191. <a href="#p326">A LANDSLIDE</a> <br> +192. <a href="#p327">GOLDAU VALLEY BEFORE AND AFTER THE LANDSLIDE</a> <br> +193. <a href="#p330">THE WAY THEY DO IT</a> <br> +194. <a href="#p331">OUR GALLANT DRIVER</a> <br> +195. <a href="#p333">A MOUNTAIN PASS</a><br> +196. <a href="#p333b">"I'M OFUL DRY"</a> <br> +197. <a href="#p334">IT'S THE FASHION</a> <br> +198. <a href="#p335">WHAT WE EXPECTED</a> <br> +199. <a href="#p338">WE MISSED THE SCENERY</a><br> +200. <a href="#p339">THE TOURISTS</a> <br> +201. <a href="#p341">THE YOUNG BRIDE</a><br> +202. <a href="#p342">"IT WAS A FAMOUS VICTORY</a> <br> +203. <a href="#p344">PROMENADE IN INTERLAKEN</a><br> +204. <a href="#p346">THE JUNGFRAU BY M.T.</a><br> +205. <a href="#p349">STREET IN INTERLAKEN</a> <br> +206. <a href="#p351">WITHOUT A COURIER</a><br> +207. <a href="#p352">TRAVELING WITH A COURIER</a> <br> +208. <a href="#p354">TAIL PIECE</a> <br> +209. <a href="#p357">GRAPE AND WHEY PATIENTS</a><br> +210. <a href="#p360">SOCIABLE DRIVERS</a> <br> +211. <a href="#p361">A MOUNTAIN CASCADE</a> <br> +212. <a href="#p362">THE GASTERNTHAL</a> <br> +213. <a href="#p363">EXHILARATING SPORT</a> <br> +214. <a href="#p364">FALLS</a> <br> +215. <a href="#p366">WHAT MIGHT BE</a> <br> +216. <a href="#p367">AN ALPINE BOUQUET</a> <br> +217. <a href="#p369">THE END OF THE WORLD</a> <br> +218. <a href="#p371">THE FORGET-ME-NOT</a> <br> +219. <a href="#p373">A NEEDLE OF ICE</a> <br> +220. <a href="#p375">CLIMBING THE MOUNTAIN</a> <br> +221. <a href="#p376">SNOW CREVASSES</a> <br> +222. <a href="#p379">CUTTING STEPS</a> <br> +223. <a href="#p380">THE GUIDE</a> <br> +224. <a href="#p382">VIEW FROM THE CLIFF</a> <br> +225. <a href="#p383">GEMMI PASS AND LAKE DAUBENSEE</a><br> +226. <a href="#p386">ALMOST A TRAGEDY</a> <br> +227. <a href="#p387">THE ALPINE LITTER</a> <br> +228. <a href="#p388">SOCIAL BATHERS</a><br> +229. <a href="#p389">DEATH OF COUNTESS HERLINCOURT</a><br> +230. <a href="#p392">THEY'VE GOT IT ALL</a> <br> +231. <a href="#p393">MODEL FOR AN EMPRESS</a> <br> +232. <a href="#p394">BATH HOUSES AT LEUKE</a><br> +233. <a href="#p395">THE BATHERS AT LEUKE</a> <br> +234. <a href="#p399">RATTIER MIXED UP</a> <br> +235. <a href="#p400">TAIL PIECE</a> <br> + + +</td></tr> +</table> +</center> + + +<br><br><br><br> +<h2>CONTENTS:</h2> + + + +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> +<a href="#ch29">CHAPTER XXIX</a> +<br> +Everything Convenient—Looking for a Western Sunrise—Mutual +Recrimination—View from the Summit—Down the +Mountain—Railroading—Confidence Wanted and Acquired +<br><br> +<a href="#ch30">CHAPTER XXX</a> +<br> +A Trip by Proxy—A Visit to the Furka Regions—Deadman's +Lake—Source of the Rhone—Glacier Tables—Storm in the +Mountains—At Grindelwald—Dawn on the Mountains—An Explanation +Required—Dead Language—Criticism of Harris's Report +<br><br> +<a href="#ch31">CHAPTER XXXI</a> +<br> +Preparations for a Tramp—From Lucerne to Interlaken—The Brunig +Pass—Modern and Ancient Chalets—Death of Pontius +Pilate—Hermit Home of St Nicholas—Landslides—Children Selling +Refreshments—How they Harness a Horse—A Great Man—Honors +to a Hero—A Thirsty Bride—For Better or Worse—German +Fashions—Anticipations—Solid Comfort—An Unsatisfactory \ +Awakening—What we had Lost—Our Surroundings +<br><br> +<a href="#ch32">CHAPTER XXXII</a> +<br> +The Jungfrau Hotel—A Whiskered Waitress—An Arkansas +Bride—Perfection in Discord—A Famous Victory—A Look from a +Window—About the Jungfrau +<br><br> +<a href="#ch33">CHAPTER XXXIII</a> +<br> +The Giesbach Falls—The Spirit of the Alps—Why People Visit +Them—Whey and Grapes as Medicines—The Kursaal—A Formidable +Undertaking—From Interlaken to Zermatt on Foot—We Concluded +to take a Buggy—A Pair of Jolly Drivers—We meet with +Companions—A Cheerful Ride—Kandersteg Valley—An Alpine +Parlor—Exercise and Amusement—A Race with a Log +<br><br> +<a href="#ch34">CHAPTER XXXIV</a> +<br> +An Old Guide—Possible Accidents—Dangerous Habitation—Mountain +Flowers—Embryo Lions—Mountain Pigs—The End of The +World—Ghastly Desolation—Proposed Adventure—Reading-up +Adventures—Ascent of Monte Rosa—Precipices and Crevasses—Among the +Snows—Exciting Experiences—lee Ridges—The Summit—Adventures Postponed +<br><br> +<a href="#ch35">CHAPTER XXXV</a> +<br> +A New Interest—Magnificent Views—A Mule's Prefereoces—Turning +Mountain Corners—Terror of a Horse—Lady Tourists—Death of +a young Countess—A Search for a Hat—What We Did Find—Harris's +Opinion of Chamois—A Disappointed Man—A Giantess—Model for an +Empress—Baths at Leuk—Sport in the Water—The Gemmi +Precipices—A Palace for an Emperor—The Famous Ladders—Considerably +Mixed Up—Sad Plight of a Minister + +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> + + + +<br><br><br><br><br><br> +<a name="ch29"></a><center><h2>CHAPTER XXIX</h2> +<h3>[Looking West for Sunrise]</h3></center> +<br><br> + +<p>He kept his word. We heard his horn and instantly got up. +It was dark and cold and wretched. As I fumbled around +for the matches, knocking things down with my quaking hands, +I wished the sun would rise in the middle of the day, +when it was warm and bright and cheerful, and one +wasn't sleepy. We proceeded to dress by the gloom of a +couple sickly candles, but we could hardly button anything, +our hands shook so. I thought of how many happy people +there were in Europe, Asia, and America, and everywhere, +who were sleeping peacefully in their beds, and did not +have to get up and see the Rigi sunrise—people who did +not appreciate their advantage, as like as not, but would +get up in the morning wanting more boons of Providence. +While thinking these thoughts I yawned, in a rather ample way, +and my upper teeth got hitched on a nail over the door, +and while I was mounting a chair to free myself, Harris drew +the window-curtain, and said: + +<p>"Oh, this is luck! We shan't have to go out at +all—yonder are the mountains, in full view." + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p302"></a><img alt="p302.jpg (43K)" src="images/p302.jpg" height="627" width="313"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>That was glad news, indeed. It made us cheerful right away. +One could see the grand Alpine masses dimly outlined +against the black firmament, and one or two faint stars +blinking through rifts in the night. Fully clothed, +and wrapped in blankets, and huddled ourselves up, +by the window, with lighted pipes, and fell into chat, +while we waited in exceeding comfort to see how an Alpine +sunrise was going to look by candlelight. By and by +a delicate, spiritual sort of effulgence spread itself +by imperceptible degrees over the loftiest altitudes of +the snowy wastes—but there the effort seemed to stop. +I said, presently: + +<p>"There is a hitch about this sunrise somewhere. +It doesn't seem to go. What do you reckon is the matter +with it?" + +<p>"I don't know. It appears to hang fire somewhere. +I never saw a sunrise act like that before. Can it be +that the hotel is playing anything on us?" + +<p>"Of course not. The hotel merely has a property interest +in the sun, it has nothing to do with the management of it. +It is a precarious kind of property, too; a succession +of total eclipses would probably ruin this tavern. +Now what can be the matter with this sunrise?" + +<p>Harris jumped up and said: + +<p>"I've got it! I know what's the matter with it! We've +been looking at the place where the sun SET last night!" + +<p>"It is perfectly true! Why couldn't you have thought of +that sooner? Now we've lost another one! And all through +your blundering. It was exactly like you to light a pipe +and sit down to wait for the sun to rise in the west." + +<p>"It was exactly like me to find out the mistake, too. +You never would have found it out. I find out all the mistakes." + +<p>"You make them all, too, else your most valuable faculty +would be wasted on you. But don't stop to quarrel, +now—maybe we are not too late yet." + +<p>But we were. The sun was well up when we got to the +exhibition-ground. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p303"></a><img alt="p303.jpg (57K)" src="images/p303.jpg" height="681" width="525"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>On our way up we met the crowd returning—men and women +dressed in all sorts of queer costumes, and exhibiting +all degrees of cold and wretchedness in their gaits +and countenances. A dozen still remained on the ground +when we reached there, huddled together about the scaffold +with their backs to the bitter wind. They had their red +guide-books open at the diagram of the view, and were +painfully picking out the several mountains and trying +to impress their names and positions on their memories. +It was one of the saddest sights I ever saw. + +<p>Two sides of this place were guarded by railings, +to keep people from being blown over the precipices. +The view, looking sheer down into the broad valley, +eastward, from this great elevation—almost a perpendicular +mile—was very quaint and curious. Counties, towns, +hilly ribs and ridges, wide stretches of green meadow, +great forest tracts, winding streams, a dozen blue lakes, +a block of busy steamboats—we saw all this little +world in unique circumstantiality of detail—saw it +just as the birds see it—and all reduced to the smallest +of scales and as sharply worked out and finished as a +steel engraving. The numerous toy villages, with tiny +spires projecting out of them, were just as the children +might have left them when done with play the day before; +the forest tracts were diminished to cushions of moss; +one or two big lakes were dwarfed to ponds, the smaller +ones to puddles—though they did not look like puddles, +but like blue teardrops which had fallen and lodged +in slight depressions, conformable to their shapes, +among the moss-beds and the smooth levels of dainty +green farm-land; the microscopic steamboats glided along, +as in a city reservoir, taking a mighty time to cover +the distance between ports which seemed only a yard apart; +and the isthmus which separated two lakes looked as if +one might stretch out on it and lie with both elbows +in the water, yet we knew invisible wagons were toiling +across it and finding the distance a tedious one. +This beautiful miniature world had exactly the appearance +of those "relief maps" which reproduce nature precisely, +with the heights and depressions and other details graduated +to a reduced scale, and with the rocks, trees, lakes, +etc., colored after nature. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p305"></a><img alt="p305.jpg (62K)" src="images/p305.jpg" height="865" width="429"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>I believed we could walk down to Waeggis or Vitznau +in a day, but I knew we could go down by rail in about +an hour, so I chose the latter method. I wanted to see +what it was like, anyway. The train came along about +the middle of the afternoon, and an odd thing it was. +The locomotive-boiler stood on end, and it and the whole +locomotive were tilted sharply backward. There were +two passenger-cars, roofed, but wide open all around. +These cars were not tilted back, but the seats were; +this enables the passenger to sit level while going down a +steep incline. + +<p>There are three railway-tracks; the central one is cogged; +the "lantern wheel" of the engine grips its way along +these cogs, and pulls the train up the hill or retards its +motion on the down trip. About the same speed—three miles +an hour—is maintained both ways. Whether going up or down, +the locomotive is always at the lower end of the train. +It pushes in the one case, braces back in the other. +The passenger rides backward going up, and faces forward +going down. + +<p>We got front seats, and while the train moved along +about fifty yards on level ground, I was not the +least frightened; but now it started abruptly downstairs, +and I caught my breath. And I, like my neighbors, +unconsciously held back all I could, and threw my weight +to the rear, but, of course, that did no particular good. +I had slidden down the balusters when I was a boy, +and thought nothing of it, but to slide down the balusters +in a railway-train is a thing to make one's flesh creep. +Sometimes we had as much as ten yards of almost level +ground, and this gave us a few full breaths in comfort; +but straightway we would turn a corner and see a long steep +line of rails stretching down below us, and the comfort +was at an end. One expected to see the locomotive pause, +or slack up a little, and approach this plunge cautiously, +but it did nothing of the kind; it went calmly on, and went +it reached the jumping-off place it made a sudden bow, +and went gliding smoothly downstairs, untroubled by +the circumstances. + +<p>It was wildly exhilarating to slide along the edge of +the precipices, after this grisly fashion, and look straight +down upon that far-off valley which I was describing a while ago. + +<p> +There was no level ground at the Kaltbad station; +the railbed was as steep as a roof; I was curious +to see how the stop was going to be managed. +But it was very simple; the train came sliding down, +and when it reached the right spot it just stopped—that +was all there was "to it"—stopped on the steep incline, +and when the exchange of passengers and baggage had +been made, it moved off and went sliding down again. +The train can be stopped anywhere, at a moment's notice. + +<p>There was one curious effect, which I need not take the +trouble to describe—because I can scissor a description +of it out of the railway company's advertising pamphlet, +and save my ink: + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p307"></a><img alt="p307.jpg (37K)" src="images/p307.jpg" height="367" width="493"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>"On the whole tour, particularly at the Descent, we undergo +an optical illusion which often seems to be incredible. +All the shrubs, fir trees, stables, houses, etc., seem to be bent +in a slanting direction, as by an immense pressure of air. +They are all standing awry, so much awry that the chalets +and cottages of the peasants seem to be tumbling down. +It is the consequence of the steep inclination of the line. +Those who are seated in the carriage do not observe that they +are going down a declivity of twenty to twenty-five degrees +(their seats being adapted to this course of proceeding +and being bent down at their backs). They mistake their +carriage and its horizontal lines for a proper measure +of the normal plain, and therefore all the objects outside +which really are in a horizontal position must show a +disproportion of twenty to twenty-five degrees declivity, +in regard to the mountain." + +<p>By the time one reaches Kaltbad, he has acquired confidence +in the railway, and he now ceases to try to ease the +locomotive by holding back. Thenceforth he smokes his +pipe in serenity, and gazes out upon the magnificent +picture below and about him with unfettered enjoyment. +There is nothing to interrupt the view or the breeze; +it is like inspecting the world on the wing. However—to be +exact—there is one place where the serenity lapses for a while; +this is while one is crossing the Schnurrtobel Bridge, +a frail structure which swings its gossamer frame down +through the dizzy air, over a gorge, like a vagrant +spider-strand. + +<p>One has no difficulty in remembering his sins while +the train is creeping down this bridge; and he repents +of them, too; though he sees, when he gets to Vitznau, +that he need not have done it, the bridge was perfectly safe. + +<p>So ends the eventual trip which we made to the Rigi-Kulm +to see an Alpine sunrise. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p308"></a><img alt="p308.jpg (21K)" src="images/p308.jpg" height="363" width="449"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + + +<center><a name="p309"></a><img alt="p309.jpg (78K)" src="images/p309.jpg" height="410" width="651"> +</center> + + + +<br><br><br><br><br><br> +<a name="ch30"></a><center><h2>CHAPTER XXX</h2> +<h3>[Harris Climbs Mountains for Me]</h3></center> +<br><br> + +<p>An hour's sail brought us to Lucerne again. I judged +it best to go to bed and rest several days, for I knew +that the man who undertakes to make the tour of Europe +on foot must take care of himself. + +<p>Thinking over my plans, as mapped out, I perceived that +they did not take in the Furka Pass, the Rhone Glacier, +the Finsteraarhorn, the Wetterhorn, etc. I immediately +examined the guide-book to see if these were important, +and found they were; in fact, a pedestrian tour of Europe +could not be complete without them. Of course that decided +me at once to see them, for I never allow myself to do +things by halves, or in a slurring, slipshod way. + +<p>I called in my agent and instructed him to go without delay +and make a careful examination of these noted places, +on foot, and bring me back a written report of the result, +for insertion in my book. I instructed him to go to Hospenthal +as quickly as possible, and make his grand start from there; +to extend his foot expedition as far as the Giesbach fall, +and return to me from thence by diligence or mule. +I told him to take the courier with him. + +<p>He objected to the courier, and with some show of reason, +since he was about to venture upon new and untried ground; +but I thought he might as well learn how to take care of +the courier now as later, therefore I enforced my point. +I said that the trouble, delay, and inconvenience +of traveling with a courier were balanced by the deep +respect which a courier's presence commands, and I must +insist that as much style be thrown into my journeys +as possible. + +<p>So the two assumed complete mountaineering costumes +and departed. A week later they returned, pretty well +used up, and my agent handed me the following: + +<center><p>Official Report + +<p>OF A VISIT TO THE FURKA REGION. +<p>BY H. HARRIS, AGENT</center> + +<p>About seven o'clock in the morning, with perfectly +fine weather, we started from Hospenthal, and arrived at +the MAISON on the Furka in a little under QUATRE hours. +The want of variety in the scenery from Hospenthal made +the KAHKAHPONEEKA wearisome; but let none be discouraged; +no one can fail to be completely R'ECOMPENS'EE for +his fatigue, when he sees, for the first time, the monarch +of the Oberland, the tremendous Finsteraarhorn. A moment +before all was dullness, but a PAS further has placed us +on the summit of the Furka; and exactly in front of us, +at a HOPOW of only fifteen miles, this magnificent mountain +lifts its snow-wreathed precipices into the deep blue sky. +The inferior mountains on each side of the pass form +a sort of frame for the picture of their dread lord, +and close in the view so completely that no other prominent +feature in the Oberland is visible from this BONG-A-BONG; +nothing withdraws the attention from the solitary grandeur +of the Finsteraarhorn and the dependent spurs which form +the abutments of the central peak. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p313"></a><img alt="p313.jpg (51K)" src="images/p313.jpg" height="479" width="547"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>With the addition of some others, who were also bound +for the Grimsel, we formed a large XHVLOJ as we descended +the STEG which winds round the shoulder of a mountain +toward the Rhone Glacier. We soon left the path and took +to the ice; and after wandering amongst the crevices UN PEU, +to admire the wonders of these deep blue caverns, and hear +the rushing of waters through their subglacial channels, +we struck out a course toward L'AUTRE CÔTE and crossed +the glacier successfully, a little above the cave from +which the infant Rhone takes its first bound from under +the grand precipice of ice. Half a mile below this +we began to climb the flowery side of the Meienwand. +One of our party started before the rest, but the HITZE +was so great, that we found IHM quite exhausted, +and lying at full length in the shade of a large GESTEIN. +We sat down with him for a time, for all felt the heat +exceedingly in the climb up this very steep BOLWOGGOLY, +and then we set out again together, and arrived at last +near the Dead Man's Lake, at the foot of the Sidelhorn. +This lonely spot, once used for an extempore burying-place, +after a sanguinary BATTUE between the French and Austrians, +is the perfection of desolation; there is nothing in sight +to mark the hand of man, except the line of weather-beaten +whitened posts, set up to indicate the direction of the pass +in the OWDAWAKK of winter. Near this point the footpath joins +the wider track, which connects the Grimsel with the head +of the Rhone SCHNAWP; this has been carefully constructed, +and leads with a tortuous course among and over LES PIERRES, +down to the bank of the gloomy little SWOSH-SWOSH, which +almost washes against the walls of the Grimsel Hospice. +We arrived a little before four o'clock at the end +of our day's journey, hot enough to justify the step, +taking by most of the PARTIE, of plunging into the crystal +water of the snow-fed lake. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p314"></a><img alt="p314.jpg (32K)" src="images/p314.jpg" height="357" width="549"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>The next afternoon we started for a walk up the Unteraar glacier, +with the intention of, at all events, getting as far +as the Hütte which is used as a sleeping-place by most +of those who cross the Strahleck Pass to Grindelwald. +We got over the tedious collection of stones and DÉBRIS +which covers the PIED of the GLETCHER, and had walked +nearly three hours from the Grimsel, when, just as +we were thinking of crossing over to the right, +to climb the cliffs at the foot of the hut, the clouds, +which had for some time assumed a threatening appearance, +suddenly dropped, and a huge mass of them, driving toward +us from the Finsteraarhorn, poured down a deluge of +HABOOLONG and hail. Fortunately, we were not far from +a very large glacier-table; it was a huge rock balanced +on a pedestal of ice high enough to admit of our all +creeping under it for GOWKARAK. A stream of PUCKITTYPUKK +had furrowed a course for itself in the ice at its base, +and we were obliged to stand with one FUSS on each side +of this, and endeavor to keep ourselves CHAUD by cutting +steps in the steep bank of the pedestal, so as to get +a higher place for standing on, as the WASSER rose rapidly +in its trench. A very cold BZZZZZZZZEEE accompanied +the storm, and made our position far from pleasant; +and presently came a flash of BLITZEN, apparently in the +middle of our little party, with an instantaneous clap +of YOKKY, sounding like a large gun fired close to our ears; +the effect was startling; but in a few seconds our attention +was fixed by the roaring echoes of the thunder against +the tremendous mountains which completely surrounded us. +This was followed by many more bursts, none of WELCHE, +however, was so dangerously near; and after waiting a long +DEMI-hour in our icy prison, we sallied out to talk through +a HABOOLONG which, though not so heavy as before, was quite +enough to give us a thorough soaking before our arrival at the +Hospice. + +<p>The Grimsel is CERTAINEMENT a wonderful place; situated at +the bottom of a sort of huge crater, the sides of which +are utterly savage GEBIRGE, composed of barren rocks +which cannot even support a single pine ARBRE, and afford +only scanty food for a herd of GMWKWLLOLP, it looks as +if it must be completely BEGRABEN in the winter snows. +Enormous avalanches fall against it every spring, +sometimes covering everything to the depth of thirty +or forty feet; and, in spite of walls four feet thick, +and furnished with outside shutters, the two men who stay here +when the VOYAGEURS are snugly quartered in their distant homes +can tell you that the snow sometimes shakes the house to its +foundations. + +<p>Next morning the HOGGLEBUMGULLUP still continued bad, +but we made up our minds to go on, and make the best of it. +Half an hour after we started, the REGEN thickened unpleasantly, +and we attempted to get shelter under a projecting rock, +but being far to NASS already to make standing at all +AGRÉABLE, we pushed on for the Handeck, consoling ourselves +with the reflection that from the furious rushing +of the river Aar at our side, we should at all events +see the celebrated WASSERFALL in GRANDE PERFECTION. +Nor were we NAPPERSOCKET in our expectation; the water +was roaring down its leap of two hundred and fifty feet +in a most magnificent frenzy, while the trees which cling +to its rocky sides swayed to and fro in the violence of the +hurricane which it brought down with it; even the stream, +which falls into the main cascade at right angles, +and TOUTEFOIS forms a beautiful feature in the scene, +was now swollen into a raging torrent; and the violence +of this "meeting of the waters," about fifty feet below +the frail bridge where we stood, was fearfully grand. +While we were looking at it, GLÜECKLICHEWEISE a gleam +of sunshine came out, and instantly a beautiful rainbow +was formed by the spray, and hung in mid-air suspended over +the awful gorge. + +<p>On going into the CHALET above the fall, we were +informed that a BRUECKE had broken down near Guttanen, +and that it would be impossible to proceed for some time; +accordingly we were kept in our drenched condition for +EIN STUNDE, when some VOYAGEURS arrived from Meiringen, +and told us that there had been a trifling accident, +ABER that we could now cross. On arriving at the spot, +I was much inclined to suspect that the whole story was a ruse +to make us SLOWWK and drink the more at the Handeck Inn, +for only a few planks had been carried away, and though +there might perhaps have been some difficulty with mules, +the gap was certainly not larger than a MMBGLX might cross +with a very slight leap. Near Guttanen the HABOOLONG +happily ceased, and we had time to walk ourselves tolerably +dry before arriving at Reichenback, WO we enjoyed a good DINÉ +at the Hotel des Alps. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p317"></a><img alt="p317.jpg (66K)" src="images/p317.jpg" height="859" width="363"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>Next morning we walked to Rosenlaui, the BEAU IDÉAL +of Swiss scenery, where we spent the middle of the day +in an excursion to the glacier. This was more beautiful +than words can describe, for in the constant progress +of the ice it has changed the form of its extremity +and formed a vast cavern, as blue as the sky above, +and rippled like a frozen ocean. A few steps cut +in the WHOOPJAMBOREEHOO enabled us to walk completely +under this, and feast our eyes upon one of the loveliest +objects in creation. The glacier was all around divided +by numberless fissures of the same exquisite color, +and the finest wood-ERDBEEREN were growing in abundance +but a few yards from the ice. The inn stands in a CHARMANT +spot close to the CÔTÉ DE LA RIVIÈRE, which, lower down, +forms the Reichenbach fall, and embosomed in the richest +of pine woods, while the fine form of the Wellhorn +looking down upon it completes the enchanting BOPPLE. +In the afternoon we walked over the Great Scheideck +to Grindelwald, stopping to pay a visit to the Upper +glacier by the way; but we were again overtaken by bad +HOGGLEBUMGULLUP and arrived at the hotel in a SOLCHE +a state that the landlord's wardrobe was in great request. + +<p>The clouds by this time seemed to have done their worst, +for a lovely day succeeded, which we determined to devote +to an ascent of the Faulhorn. We left Grindelwald just as +a thunder-storm was dying away, and we hoped to find GUTEN +WETTER up above; but the rain, which had nearly ceased, +began again, and we were struck by the rapidly increasing +FROID as we ascended. Two-thirds of the way up were +completed when the rain was exchanged for GNILLIC, +with which the BODEN was thickly covered, and before we +arrived at the top the GNILLIC and mist became so thick +that we could not see one another at more than twenty +POOPOO distance, and it became difficult to pick our way over +the rough and thickly covered ground. Shivering with cold, +we turned into bed with a double allowance of clothes, +and slept comfortably while the wind howled AUTOUR DE +LA MAISON; when I awoke, the wall and the window looked +equally dark, but in another hour I found I could just +see the form of the latter; so I jumped out of bed, +and forced it open, though with great difficulty from +the frost and the quantities of GNILLIC heaped up against it. + +<p>A row of huge icicles hung down from the edge of the roof, +and anything more wintry than the whole ANBLICK could +not well be imagined; but the sudden appearance of the +great mountains in front was so startling that I felt no +inclination to move toward bed again. The snow which had +collected upon LA FÊNTRE had increased the FINSTERNISS +ODER DER DUNKELHEIT, so that when I looked out I was +surprised to find that the daylight was considerable, +and that the BALRAGOOMAH would evidently rise before long. +Only the brightest of LES E'TOILES were still shining; +the sky was cloudless overhead, though small curling +mists lay thousands of feet below us in the valleys, +wreathed around the feet of the mountains, and adding +to the splendor of their lofty summits. We were soon +dressed and out of the house, watching the gradual approach +of dawn, thoroughly absorbed in the first near view +of the Oberland giants, which broke upon us unexpectedly +after the intense obscurity of the evening before. +"KABAUGWAKKO SONGWASHEE KUM WETTERHORN SNAWPO!" cried some one, +as that grand summit gleamed with the first rose of dawn; +and in a few moments the double crest of the Schreckhorn +followed its example; peak after peak seemed warmed +with life, the Jungfrau blushed even more beautifully +than her neighbors, and soon, from the Wetterhorn in the +east to the Wildstrubel in the west, a long row of fires +glowed upon mighty altars, truly worthy of the gods. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p319"></a><img alt="p319.jpg (36K)" src="images/p319.jpg" height="389" width="541"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>The WLGW was very severe; our sleeping-place could +hardly be DISTINGUEÉ from the snow around it, which had +fallen to a depth of a FLIRK during the past evening, +and we heartily enjoyed a rough scramble EN BAS to the +Giesbach falls, where we soon found a warm climate. +At noon the day before Grindelwald the thermometer could +not have stood at less than 100 degrees Fahr. in the sun; +and in the evening, judging from the icicles formed, +and the state of the windows, there must have been at least +twelve DINGBLATTER of frost, thus giving a change of 80 +degrees during a few hours. + +<p>I said: + +<p>"You have done well, Harris; this report is concise, +compact, well expressed; the language is crisp, +the descriptions are vivid and not needlessly elaborated; +your report goes straight to the point, attends strictly +to business, and doesn't fool around. It is in many +ways an excellent document. But it has a fault—it +is too learned, it is much too learned. What is 'DINGBLATTER'? + +<p>"'DINGBLATTER' is a Fiji word meaning 'degrees.'" + +<p>"You knew the English of it, then?" + +<p>"Oh, yes." + +<p>"What is 'GNILLIC'? + +<p>"That is the Eskimo term for 'snow.'" + +<p>"So you knew the English for that, too?" + +<p>"Why, certainly." + +<p>"What does 'MMBGLX' stand for?" + +<p>"That is Zulu for 'pedestrian.'" + +<p>"'While the form of the Wellhorn looking down upon it +completes the enchanting BOPPLE.' What is 'BOPPLE'?" + +<p>"'Picture.' It's Choctaw." + +<p>"What is 'SCHNAWP'?" + +<p>"'Valley.' That is Choctaw, also." + +<p>"What is 'BOLWOGGOLY'?" + +<p>"That is Chinese for 'hill.'" + +<p>"'KAHKAHPONEEKA'?" + +<p>"'Ascent.' Choctaw." + +<p>"'But we were again overtaken by bad HOGGLEBUMGULLUP.' +What does 'HOGGLEBUMGULLUP' mean?" + +<p>"That is Chinese for 'weather.'" + +<p>"Is 'HOGGLEBUMGULLUP' better than the English word? Is +it any more descriptive?" + +<p>"No, it means just the same." + +<p>"And 'DINGBLATTER' and 'GNILLIC,' and 'BOPPLE,' +and 'SCHNAWP'—are they better than the English words?" + +<p>"No, they mean just what the English ones do." + +<p>"Then why do you use them? Why have you used all this +Chinese and Choctaw and Zulu rubbish?" + +<p>"Because I didn't know any French but two or three words, +and I didn't know any Latin or Greek at all." + +<p>"That is nothing. Why should you want to use foreign words, +anyhow?" + +<p>"They adorn my page. They all do it." + +<p>"Who is 'all'?" + +<p>"Everybody. Everybody that writes elegantly. Anybody has +a right to that wants to." + +<p>"I think you are mistaken." I then proceeded in the following +scathing manner. "When really learned men write books +for other learned men to read, they are justified in using +as many learned words as they please—their audience +will understand them; but a man who writes a book for the +general public to read is not justified in disfiguring +his pages with untranslated foreign expressions. +It is an insolence toward the majority of the purchasers, +for it is a very frank and impudent way of saying, +'Get the translations made yourself if you want them, +this book is not written for the ignorant classes.' There are +men who know a foreign language so well and have used it +so long in their daily life that they seem to discharge whole +volleys of it into their English writings unconsciously, +and so they omit to translate, as much as half the time. +That is a great cruelty to nine out of ten of the +man's readers. What is the excuse for this? The writer +would say he only uses the foreign language where the +delicacy of his point cannot be conveyed in English. +Very well, then he writes his best things for the tenth man, +and he ought to warn the nine other not to buy his book. +However, the excuse he offers is at least an excuse; +but there is another set of men who are like YOU; +they know a WORD here and there, of a foreign language, +or a few beggarly little three-word phrases, filched from +the back of the Dictionary, and these are continually +peppering into their literature, with a pretense of +knowing that language—what excuse can they offer? The +foreign words and phrases which they use have their exact +equivalents in a nobler language—English; yet they think +they 'adorn their page' when they say STRASSE for street, +and BAHNHOF for railway-station, and so on—flaunting +these fluttering rags of poverty in the reader's face +and imagining he will be ass enough to take them for the +sign of untold riches held in reserve. I will let your +'learning' remain in your report; you have as much right, +I suppose, to 'adorn your page' with Zulu and Chinese +and Choctaw rubbish as others of your sort have to adorn +theirs with insolent odds and ends smouched from half +a dozen learned tongues whose A-B ABS they don't even know." + +<p>When the musing spider steps upon the red-hot shovel, +he first exhibits a wild surprise, then he shrivels up. +Similar was the effect of these blistering words upon the +tranquil and unsuspecting Agent. I can be dreadfully rough +on a person when the mood takes me. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p322"></a><img alt="p322.jpg (18K)" src="images/p322.jpg" height="323" width="385"> +</center> + + + +<br><br><br><br><br><br> +<a name="ch31"></a><center><h2>CHAPTER XXXI</h2> +<h3>[Alp-scaling by Carriage]</h3></center> +<br><br> + + +<p>We now prepared for a considerable walk—from Lucerne +to Interlaken, over the Bruenig Pass. But at the last moment +the weather was so good that I changed my mind and hired +a four-horse carriage. It was a huge vehicle, roomy, as easy +in its motion as a palanquin, and exceedingly comfortable. + +<p>We got away pretty early in the morning, after a hot breakfast, +and went bowling over a hard, smooth road, through the summer +loveliness of Switzerland, with near and distant lakes +and mountains before and about us for the entertainment +of the eye, and the music of multitudinous birds to charm +the ear. Sometimes there was only the width of the road +between the imposing precipices on the right and the clear +cool water on the left with its shoals of uncatchable +fish skimming about through the bars of sun and shadow; +and sometimes, in place of the precipices, the grassy land +stretched away, in an apparently endless upward slant, +and was dotted everywhere with snug little chalets, +the peculiarly captivating cottage of Switzerland. + +<p>The ordinary chalet turns a broad, honest gable end +to the road, and its ample roof hovers over the home +in a protecting, caressing way, projecting its sheltering +eaves far outward. The quaint windows are filled with +little panes, and garnished with white muslin curtains, +and brightened with boxes of blooming flowers. +Across the front of the house, and up the spreading eaves +and along the fanciful railings of the shallow porch, +are elaborate carvings—wreaths, fruits, arabesques, +verses from Scripture, names, dates, etc. The building +is wholly of wood, reddish brown in tint, a very +pleasing color. It generally has vines climbing over it. +Set such a house against the fresh green of the hillside, +and it looks ever so cozy and inviting and picturesque, +and is a decidedly graceful addition to the landscape. + +<p>One does not find out what a hold the chalet has taken +upon him, until he presently comes upon a new +house—a house which is aping the town fashions of Germany +and France, a prim, hideous, straight-up-and-down thing, +plastered all over on the outside to look like stone, +and altogether so stiff, and formal, and ugly, and forbidding, +and so out of tune with the gracious landscape, and so deaf +and dumb and dead to the poetry of its surroundings, +that it suggests an undertaker at a picnic, a corpse at +a wedding, a puritan in Paradise. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p324"></a><img alt="p324.jpg (25K)" src="images/p324.jpg" height="285" width="479"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>In the course of the morning we passed the spot where Pontius +Pilate is said to have thrown himself into the lake. +The legend goes that after the Crucifixion his conscience +troubled him, and he fled from Jerusalem and wandered +about the earth, weary of life and a prey to tortures of +the mind. Eventually, he hid himself away, on the heights +of Mount Pilatus, and dwelt alone among the clouds and +crags for years; but rest and peace were still denied him, +so he finally put an end to his misery by drowning himself. + +<p>Presently we passed the place where a man of better odor +was born. This was the children's friend, Santa Claus, +or St. Nicholas. There are some unaccountable reputations +in the world. This saint's is an instance. He has +ranked for ages as the peculiar friend of children, +yet it appears he was not much of a friend to his own. +He had ten of them, and when fifty years old he left them, +and sought out as dismal a refuge from the world as possible, +and became a hermit in order that he might reflect upon +pious themes without being disturbed by the joyous and other +noises from the nursery, doubtless. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p325"></a><img alt="p325.jpg (61K)" src="images/p325.jpg" height="725" width="399"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>Judging by Pilate and St. Nicholas, there exists no rule +for the construction of hermits; they seem made out of all +kinds of material. But Pilate attended to the matter of +expiating his sin while he was alive, whereas St. Nicholas +will probably have to go on climbing down sooty chimneys, +Christmas eve, forever, and conferring kindness on other +people's children, to make up for deserting his own. +His bones are kept in a church in a village (Sachseln) +which we visited, and are naturally held in great reverence. +His portrait is common in the farmhouses of the region, +but is believed by many to be but an indifferent likeness. +During his hermit life, according to legend, he partook +of the bread and wine of the communion once a month, +but all the rest of the month he fasted. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p326"></a><img alt="p326.jpg (49K)" src="images/p326.jpg" height="777" width="353"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>A constant marvel with us, as we sped along the bases +of the steep mountains on this journey, was, not that +avalanches occur, but that they are not occurring all +the time. One does not understand why rocks and landslides +do not plunge down these declivities daily. A landslip +occurred three quarters of a century ago, on the route +from Arth to Brunnen, which was a formidable thing. +A mass of conglomerate two miles long, a thousand feet broad, +and a hundred feet thick, broke away from a cliff three +thousand feet high and hurled itself into the valley below, +burying four villages and five hundred people, as in a grave. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p327"></a><img alt="p327.jpg (73K)" src="images/p327.jpg" height="767" width="547"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>We had such a beautiful day, and such endless pictures +of limpid lakes, and green hills and valleys, +and majestic mountains, and milky cataracts dancing +down the steeps and gleaming in the sun, that we could +not help feeling sweet toward all the world; so we tried +to drink all the milk, and eat all the grapes and apricots +and berries, and buy all the bouquets of wild flowers +which the little peasant boys and girls offered for sale; +but we had to retire from this contract, for it was too heavy. + +<p>At short distances—and they were entirely too short—all +along the road, were groups of neat and comely children, +with their wares nicely and temptingly set forth +in the grass under the shade trees, and as soon as we +approached they swarmed into the road, holding out their +baskets and milk bottles, and ran beside the carriage, +barefoot and bareheaded, and importuned us to buy. +They seldom desisted early, but continued to run and +insist—beside the wagon while they could, and behind +it until they lost breath. Then they turned and chased +a returning carriage back to their trading-post again. +After several hours of this, without any intermission, +it becomes almost annoying. I do not know what we +should have done without the returning carriages to draw +off the pursuit. However, there were plenty of these, +loaded with dusty tourists and piled high with luggage. +Indeed, from Lucerne to Interlaken we had the spectacle, +among other scenery, of an unbroken procession of +fruit-peddlers and tourists carriages. + +<p>Our talk was mostly anticipatory of what we should see +on the down-grade of the Bruenig, by and by, after we +should pass the summit. All our friends in Lucerne had +said that to look down upon Meiringen, and the rushing +blue-gray river Aar, and the broad level green valley; +and across at the mighty Alpine precipices that rise +straight up to the clouds out of that valley; and up +at the microscopic chalets perched upon the dizzy eaves +of those precipices and winking dimly and fitfully +through the drifting veil of vapor; and still up and up, +at the superb Oltschiback and the other beautiful cascades +that leap from those rugged heights, robed in powdery spray, +ruffled with foam, and girdled with rainbows—to look upon +these things, they say, was to look upon the last possibility +of the sublime and the enchanting. Therefore, as I say, +we talked mainly of these coming wonders; if we were conscious +of any impatience, it was to get there in favorable season; +if we felt any anxiety, it was that the day might +remain perfect, and enable us to see those marvels at their best. + +<p> +As we approached the Kaiserstuhl, a part of the harness gave way. + +<p>We were in distress for a moment, but only a moment. +It was the fore-and-aft gear that was broken—the thing +that leads aft from the forward part of the horse and is +made fast to the thing that pulls the wagon. In America +this would have been a heavy leathern strap; but, all over +the continent it is nothing but a piece of rope the size +of your little finger—clothes-line is what it is. +Cabs use it, private carriages, freight-carts and wagons, +all sorts of vehicles have it. In Munich I afterward saw +it used on a long wagon laden with fifty-four half-barrels +of beer; I had before noticed that the cabs in Heidelberg +used it—not new rope, but rope that had been in use +since Abraham's time —and I had felt nervous, sometimes, +behind it when the cab was tearing down a hill. But I +had long been accustomed to it now, and had even become +afraid of the leather strap which belonged in its place. +Our driver got a fresh piece of clothes-line out of his +locker and repaired the break in two minutes. + +<p>So much for one European fashion. Every country has its +own ways. It may interest the reader to know how they "put +horses to" on the continent. The man stands up the horses +on each side of the thing that projects from the front end +of the wagon, and then throws the tangled mess of gear +forward through a ring, and hauls it aft, and passes the +other thing through the other ring and hauls it aft on the +other side of the other horse, opposite to the first one, +after crossing them and bringing the loose end back, +and then buckles the other thing underneath the horse, +and takes another thing and wraps it around the thing I spoke +of before, and puts another thing over each horse's head, +with broad flappers to it to keep the dust out of his eyes, +and puts the iron thing in his mouth for him to grit his +teeth on, uphill, and brings the ends of these things aft +over his back, after buckling another one around under +his neck to hold his head up, and hitching another thing +on a thing that goes over his shoulders to keep his head +up when he is climbing a hill, and then takes the slack +of the thing which I mentioned a while ago, and fetches it +aft and makes it fast to the thing that pulls the wagon, +and hands the other things up to the driver to steer with. +I never have buckled up a horse myself, but I do not think +we do it that way. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p330"></a><img alt="p330.jpg (48K)" src="images/p330.jpg" height="477" width="557"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>We had four very handsome horses, and the driver was very proud +of his turnout. He would bowl along on a reasonable trot, +on the highway, but when he entered a village he did it on +a furious run, and accompanied it with a frenzy of ceaseless +whip-crackings that sounded like volleys of musketry. +He tore through the narrow streets and around the sharp +curves like a moving earthquake, showering his volleys +as he went, and before him swept a continuous tidal wave +of scampering children, ducks, cats, and mothers clasping +babies which they had snatched out of the way of the +coming destruction; and as this living wave washed aside, +along the walls, its elements, being safe, forgot their fears +and turned their admiring gaze upon that gallant driver +till he thundered around the next curve and was lost to sight. + +<p>He was a great man to those villagers, with his gaudy +clothes and his terrific ways. Whenever he stopped +to have his cattle watered and fed with loaves of bread, +the villagers stood around admiring him while he +swaggered about, the little boys gazed up at his face with +humble homage, and the landlord brought out foaming mugs +of beer and conversed proudly with him while he drank. +Then he mounted his lofty box, swung his explosive whip, +and away he went again, like a storm. I had not seen +anything like this before since I was a boy, and the +stage used to flourish the village with the dust flying +and the horn tooting. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p331"></a><img alt="p331.jpg (38K)" src="images/p331.jpg" height="527" width="331"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>When we reached the base of the Kaiserstuhl, we took +two more horses; we had to toil along with difficulty +for an hour and a half or two hours, for the ascent +was not very gradual, but when we passed the backbone +and approached the station, the driver surpassed all +his previous efforts in the way of rush and clatter. +He could not have six horses all the time, so he made +the most of his chance while he had it. + +<p>Up to this point we had been in the heart of the William +Tell region. The hero is not forgotten, by any means, +or held in doubtful veneration. His wooden image, +with his bow drawn, above the doors of taverns, was a +frequent feature of the scenery. + +<p>About noon we arrived at the foot of the Bruenig Pass, +and made a two-hour stop at the village hotel, another of +those clean, pretty, and thoroughly well-kept inns which are +such an astonishment to people who are accustomed to hotels +of a dismally different pattern in remote country-towns. +There was a lake here, in the lap of the great mountains, +the green slopes that rose toward the lower crags +were graced with scattered Swiss cottages nestling +among miniature farms and gardens, and from out a leafy +ambuscade in the upper heights tumbled a brawling cataract. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p333"></a><img alt="p333.jpg (79K)" src="images/p333.jpg" height="747" width="557"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>Carriage after carriage, laden with tourists and trunks, +arrived, and the quiet hotel was soon populous. +We were early at the table d'hôte and saw the people +all come in. There were twenty-five, perhaps. They were +of various nationalities, but we were the only Americans. +Next to me sat an English bride, and next to her sat her +new husband, whom she called "Neddy," though he was big +enough and stalwart enough to be entitled to his full name. +They had a pretty little lovers' quarrel over what wine +they should have. Neddy was for obeying the guide-book +and taking the wine of the country; but the bride said: + +<p>"What, that nahsty stuff!" + +<p>"It isn't nahsty, pet, it's quite good." + +<p>"It IS nahsty." + +<p>"No, it ISN'T nahsty." + +<p>"It's Oful nahsty, Neddy, and I shahn't drink it." + +<p>Then the question was, what she must have. She said he +knew very well that she never drank anything but champagne. + +<p>She added: + +<p>"You know very well papa always has champagne on his table, +and I've always been used to it." + +<p>Neddy made a playful pretense of being distressed about +the expense, and this amused her so much that she nearly +exhausted herself with laughter—and this pleased HIM +so much that he repeated his jest a couple of times, +and added new and killing varieties to it. When the bride +finally recovered, she gave Neddy a love-box on the arm +with her fan, and said with arch severity: + +<p>"Well, you would HAVE me—nothing else would +do—so you'll have to make the best of a bad bargain. +DO order the champagne, I'm Oful dry." + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p333b"></a><img alt="p333b.jpg (25K)" src="images/p333b.jpg" height="441" width="319"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>So with a mock groan which made her laugh again, +Neddy ordered the champagne. + +<p>The fact that this young woman had never moistened +the selvedge edge of her soul with a less plebeian +tipple than champagne, had a marked and subduing effect +on Harris. He believed she belonged to the royal family. +But I had my doubts. + +<p>We heard two or three different languages spoken by +people at the table and guessed out the nationalities +of most of the guests to our satisfaction, but we +failed with an elderly gentleman and his wife and a +young girl who sat opposite us, and with a gentleman +of about thirty-five who sat three seats beyond Harris. +We did not hear any of these speak. But finally the +last-named gentleman left while we were not noticing, +but we looked up as he reached the far end of the table. +He stopped there a moment, and made his toilet with a +pocket comb. So he was a German; or else he had lived +in German hotels long enough to catch the fashion. +When the elderly couple and the young girl rose to leave, +they bowed respectfully to us. So they were Germans, too. +This national custom is worth six of the other one, +for export. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p334"></a><img alt="p334.jpg (27K)" src="images/p334.jpg" height="479" width="281"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>After dinner we talked with several Englishmen, and they +inflamed our desire to a hotter degree than ever, +to see the sights of Meiringen from the heights of +the Bruenig Pass. They said the view was marvelous, +and that one who had seen it once could never forget it. +They also spoke of the romantic nature of the road over +the pass, and how in one place it had been cut through +a flank of the solid rock, in such a way that the mountain +overhung the tourist as he passed by; and they furthermore +said that the sharp turns in the road and the abruptness +of the descent would afford us a thrilling experience, +for we should go down in a flying gallop and seem to be +spinning around the rings of a whirlwind, like a drop +of whiskey descending the spirals of a corkscrew. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p335"></a><img alt="p335.jpg (74K)" src="images/p335.jpg" height="739" width="407"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>I got all the information out of these gentlemen that we +could need; and then, to make everything complete, I asked +them if a body could get hold of a little fruit and milk +here and there, in case of necessity. They threw up their +hands in speechless intimation that the road was simply paved +with refreshment-peddlers. We were impatient to get away, +now, and the rest of our two-hour stop rather dragged. +But finally the set time arrived and we began the ascent. +Indeed it was a wonderful road. It was smooth, and compact, +and clean, and the side next the precipices was guarded +all along by dressed stone posts about three feet high, +placed at short distances apart. The road could not have +been better built if Napoleon the First had built it. +He seems to have been the introducer of the sort of roads +which Europe now uses. All literature which describes +life as it existed in England, France, and Germany up +to the close of the last century, is filled with pictures +of coaches and carriages wallowing through these three +countries in mud and slush half-wheel deep; but after +Napoleon had floundered through a conquered kingdom he +generally arranged things so that the rest of the world +could follow dry-shod. + +<p>We went on climbing, higher and higher, and curving hither +and thither, in the shade of noble woods, and with a rich +variety and profusion of wild flowers all about us; +and glimpses of rounded grassy backbones below us occupied +by trim chalets and nibbling sheep, and other glimpses +of far lower altitudes, where distance diminished the +chalets to toys and obliterated the sheep altogether; +and every now and then some ermined monarch of the Alps +swung magnificently into view for a moment, then drifted +past an intervening spur and disappeared again. + +<p>It was an intoxicating trip altogether; the exceeding +sense of satisfaction that follows a good dinner added +largely to the enjoyment; the having something especial +to look forward to and muse about, like the approaching +grandeurs of Meiringen, sharpened the zest. Smoking was +never so good before, solid comfort was never solider; +we lay back against the thick cushions silent, meditative, +steeped in felicity. + + <center><p>* * * * * * * * </center> + +<p>I rubbed my eyes, opened them, and started. I had been +dreaming I was at sea, and it was a thrilling surprise to wake +up and find land all around me. It took me a couple seconds +to "come to," as you may say; then I took in the situation. +The horses were drinking at a trough in the edge of a town, +the driver was taking beer, Harris was snoring at my side, +the courier, with folded arms and bowed head, was sleeping +on the box, two dozen barefooted and bareheaded children +were gathered about the carriage, with their hands +crossed behind, gazing up with serious and innocent +admiration at the dozing tourists baking there in the sun. +Several small girls held night-capped babies nearly +as big as themselves in their arms, and even these fat +babies seemed to take a sort of sluggish interest in us. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p338"></a><img alt="p338.jpg (91K)" src="images/p338.jpg" height="426" width="651"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>We had slept an hour and a half and missed all the scenery! +I did not need anybody to tell me that. If I had been +a girl, I could have cursed for vexation. As it was, +I woke up the agent and gave him a piece of my mind. +Instead of being humiliated, he only upbraided me for being +so wanting in vigilance. He said he had expected to improve +his mind by coming to Europe, but a man might travel to the +ends of the earth with me and never see anything, for I +was manifestly endowed with the very genius of ill luck. +He even tried to get up some emotion about that poor courier, +who never got a chance to see anything, on account of +my heedlessness. But when I thought I had borne about +enough of this kind of talk, I threatened to make Harris +tramp back to the summit and make a report on that scenery, +and this suggestion spiked his battery. + +<p>We drove sullenly through Brienz, dead to the seductions +of its bewildering array of Swiss carvings and the +clamorous HOO-hooing of its cuckoo clocks, and had not +entirely recovered our spirits when we rattled across +a bridge over the rushing blue river and entered the +pretty town of Interlaken. It was just about sunset, +and we had made the trip from Lucerne in ten hours. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p339"></a><img alt="p339.jpg (23K)" src="images/p339.jpg" height="281" width="573"> +</center> + + + + +<br><br><br><br><br><br> +<a name="ch32"></a><center><h2>CHAPTER XXXII</h2> +<h3>[The Jungfrau, the Bride, and the Piano]</h3></center> +<br><br> + + +<p>We located ourselves at the Jungfrau Hotel, one of those +huge establishments which the needs of modern travel +have created in every attractive spot on the continent. +There was a great gathering at dinner, and, as usual, +one heard all sorts of languages. + +<p>The table d'hôte was served by waitresses dressed +in the quaint and comely costume of the Swiss peasants. +This consists of a simple gros de laine, trimmed with ashes +of roses, with overskirt of scare bleu ventre saint gris, +cut bias on the off-side, with facings of petit polonaise +and narrow insertions of pâte de foie gras backstitched +to the mise en sce`ne in the form of a jeu d'esprit. It gives +to the wearer a singularly piquant and alluring aspect. + +<p>One of these waitresses, a woman of forty, +had side-whiskers reaching half-way down her jaws. +They were two fingers broad, dark in color, pretty thick, +and the hairs were an inch long. One sees many women on +the continent with quite conspicuous mustaches, but this +was the only woman I saw who had reached the dignity of whiskers. + +<p> +After dinner the guests of both sexes distributed themselves +about the front porches and the ornamental grounds belonging +to the hotel, to enjoy the cool air; but, as the twilight +deepened toward darkness, they gathered themselves together +in that saddest and solemnest and most constrained of +all places, the great blank drawing-room which is the chief +feature of all continental summer hotels. There they +grouped themselves about, in couples and threes, and mumbled +in bated voices, and looked timid and homeless and forlorn. + +<p>There was a small piano in this room, a clattery, wheezy, +asthmatic thing, certainly the very worst miscarriage +in the way of a piano that the world has seen. In turn, +five or six dejected and homesick ladies approached +it doubtingly, gave it a single inquiring thump, and retired +with the lockjaw. But the boss of that instrument was +to come, nevertheless; and from my own country—from Arkansaw. + +<p>She was a brand-new bride, innocent, girlish, happy in herself +and her grave and worshiping stripling of a husband; she was +about eighteen, just out of school, free from affectations, +unconscious of that passionless multitude around her; +and the very first time she smote that old wreck one +recognized that it had met its destiny. Her stripling +brought an armful of aged sheet-music from their +room—for this bride went "heeled," as you might say—and bent +himself lovingly over and got ready to turn the pages. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p341"></a><img alt="p341.jpg (20K)" src="images/p341.jpg" height="415" width="343"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>The bride fetched a swoop with her fingers from one end +of the keyboard to the other, just to get her bearings, +as it were, and you could see the congregation set their teeth +with the agony of it. Then, without any more preliminaries, +she turned on all the horrors of the "Battle of Prague," +that venerable shivaree, and waded chin-deep in the blood +of the slain. She made a fair and honorable average +of two false notes in every five, but her soul was in arms +and she never stopped to correct. The audience stood it +with pretty fair grit for a while, but when the cannonade +waxed hotter and fiercer, and the discord average +rose to four in five, the procession began to move. +A few stragglers held their ground ten minutes longer, +but when the girl began to wring the true inwardness out +of the "cries of the wounded," they struck their colors +and retired in a kind of panic. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p342"></a><img alt="p342.jpg (60K)" src="images/p342.jpg" height="473" width="559"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>There never was a completer victory; I was the only +non-combatant left on the field. I would not have +deserted my countrywoman anyhow, but indeed I had no +desires in that direction. None of us like mediocrity, +but we all reverence perfection. This girl's music +was perfection in its way; it was the worst music that +had ever been achieved on our planet by a mere human being. + +<p>I moved up close, and never lost a strain. When she +got through, I asked her to play it again. She did it +with a pleased alacrity and a heightened enthusiasm. +She made it ALL discords, this time. She got an amount +of anguish into the cries of the wounded that shed a new +light on human suffering. She was on the war-path all +the evening. All the time, crowds of people gathered on +the porches and pressed their noses against the windows +to look and marvel, but the bravest never ventured in. +The bride went off satisfied and happy with her young fellow, +when her appetite was finally gorged, and the tourists +swarmed in again. + + + + +<br><br> +<a name="p344"></a> +<center> +<img alt="p344.jpg (109K)" src="images/p344.jpg" height="398" width="651"> +</center> +<br><br> + + + + + +<p>What a change has come over Switzerland, and in fact +all Europe, during this century! Seventy or eighty years +ago Napoleon was the only man in Europe who could really +be called a traveler; he was the only man who had devoted +his attention to it and taken a powerful interest in it; +he was the only man who had traveled extensively; +but now everybody goes everywhere; and Switzerland, +and many other regions which were unvisited and unknown +remotenesses a hundred years ago, are in our days +a buzzing hive of restless strangers every summer. +But I digress. + +<p>In the morning, when we looked out of our windows, +we saw a wonderful sight. Across the valley, +and apparently quite neighborly and close at hand, +the giant form of the Jungfrau rose cold and white into +the clear sky, beyond a gateway in the nearer highlands. +It reminded me, somehow, of one of those colossal billows +which swells suddenly up beside one's ship, at sea, +sometimes, with its crest and shoulders snowy white, and the +rest of its noble proportions streaked downward with creamy foam. + +<p> +I took out my sketch-book and made a little picture +of the Jungfrau, merely to get the shape. + +<p>I do not regard this as one of my finished works, in fact I +do not rank it among my Works at all; it is only a study; +it is hardly more than what one might call a sketch. +Other artists have done me the grace to admire it; but I +am severe in my judgments of my own pictures, and this +one does not move me. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p346"></a><img alt="p346.jpg (25K)" src="images/p346.jpg" height="345" width="569"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>It was hard to believe that that lofty wooded rampart on +the left which so overtops the Jungfrau was not actually +the higher of the two, but it was not, of course. +It is only two or three thousand feet high, and of course +has no snow upon it in summer, whereas the Jungfrau is not +much shorter of fourteen thousand feet high and therefore +that lowest verge of snow on her side, which seems nearly +down to the valley level, is really about seven thousand feet +higher up in the air than the summit of that wooded rampart. +It is the distance that makes the deception. The wooded +height is but four or five miles removed from us, +but the Jungfrau is four or five times that distance away. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p349"></a><img alt="p349.jpg (84K)" src="images/p349.jpg" height="411" width="650"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + + +<p>Walking down the street of shops, in the fore-noon, I +was attracted by a large picture, carved, frame and all, +from a single block of chocolate-colored wood. +There are people who know everything. Some of these had +told us that continental shopkeepers always raise their +prices on English and Americans. Many people had told +us it was expensive to buy things through a courier, +whereas I had supposed it was just the reverse. +When I saw this picture, I conjectured that it was worth +more than the friend I proposed to buy it for would +like to pay, but still it was worth while to inquire; +so I told the courier to step in and ask the price, as if he +wanted it for himself; I told him not to speak in English, +and above all not to reveal the fact that he was a courier. +Then I moved on a few yards, and waited. + +<p>The courier came presently and reported the price. +I said to myself, "It is a hundred francs too much," +and so dismissed the matter from my mind. But in +the afternoon I was passing that place with Harris, +and the picture attracted me again. We stepped in, +to see how much higher broken German would raise the price. +The shopwoman named a figure just a hundred francs lower +than the courier had named. This was a pleasant surprise. +I said I would take it. After I had given directions as to +where it was to be shipped, the shopwoman said, appealingly: + +<p>"If you please, do not let your courier know you bought it." + +<p>This was an unexpected remark. I said: + +<p>"What makes you think I have a courier?" + +<p>"Ah, that is very simple; he told me himself." + +<p>"He was very thoughtful. But tell me—why did you charge +him more than you are charging me?" + +<p>"That is very simple, also: I do not have to pay you +a percentage." + +<p>"Oh, I begin to see. You would have had to pay the courier +a percentage." + +<p>"Undoubtedly. The courier always has his percentage. +In this case it would have been a hundred francs." + +<p>"Then the tradesman does not pay a part of +it—the purchaser pays all of it?" + +<p>"There are occasions when the tradesman and the courier +agree upon a price which is twice or thrice the value of +the article, then the two divide, and both get a percentage." + +<p>"I see. But it seems to me that the purchaser does +all the paying, even then." + +<p>"Oh, to be sure! It goes without saying." + +<p>"But I have bought this picture myself; therefore why +shouldn't the courier know it?" + +<p>The woman exclaimed, in distress: + +<p>"Ah, indeed it would take all my little profit! He would +come and demand his hundred francs, and I should have +to pay." + +<p>"He has not done the buying. You could refuse." + +<p>"I could not dare to refuse. He would never bring +travelers here again. More than that, he would denounce me +to the other couriers, they would divert custom from me, +and my business would be injured." + +<p>I went away in a thoughtful frame of mind. I began to see why +a courier could afford to work for fifty-five dollars a month +and his fares. A month or two later I was able to understand +why a courier did not have to pay any board and lodging, +and why my hotel bills were always larger when I had him +with me than when I left him behind, somewhere, for a few days. + +<p>Another thing was also explained, now, apparently. +In one town I had taken the courier to the bank to do +the translating when I drew some money. I had sat +in the reading-room till the transaction was finished. +Then a clerk had brought the money to me in person, +and had been exceedingly polite, even going so far as to +precede me to the door and holding it open for me and bow +me out as if I had been a distinguished personage. +It was a new experience. Exchange had been in my favor +ever since I had been in Europe, but just that one time. +I got simply the face of my draft, and no extra francs, +whereas I had expected to get quite a number of them. +This was the first time I had ever used the courier at +the bank. I had suspected something then, and as long +as he remained with me afterward I managed bank matters +by myself. + +<p>Still, if I felt that I could afford the tax, I would +never travel without a courier, for a good courier is +a convenience whose value cannot be estimated in dollars +and cents. Without him, travel is a bitter harassment, +a purgatory of little exasperating annoyances, a ceaseless +and pitiless punishment—I mean to an irascible man +who has no business capacity and is confused by details. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p351"></a><img alt="p351.jpg (40K)" src="images/p351.jpg" height="401" width="545"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>Without a courier, travel hasn't a ray of pleasure +in it, anywhere; but with him it is a continuous and +unruffled delight. He is always at hand, never has to be +sent for; if your bell is not answered promptly—and it +seldom is—you have only to open the door and speak, +the courier will hear, and he will have the order attended +to or raise an insurrection. You tell him what day +you will start, and whither you are going—leave all +the rest to him. You need not inquire about trains, +or fares, or car changes, or hotels, or anything else. +At the proper time he will put you in a cab or an omnibus, +and drive you to the train or the boat; he has packed your +luggage and transferred it, he has paid all the bills. +Other people have preceded you half an hour to scramble +for impossible places and lose their tempers, but you can +take your time; the courier has secured your seats for you, +and you can occupy them at your leisure. + +<p>At the station, the crowd mash one another to pulp in the +effort to get the weigher's attention to their trunks; +they dispute hotly with these tyrants, who are cool +and indifferent; they get their baggage billets, at last, +and then have another squeeze and another rage over the +disheartening business of trying to get them recorded and +paid for, and still another over the equally disheartening +business of trying to get near enough to the ticket +office to buy a ticket; and now, with their tempers gone +to the dogs, they must stand penned up and packed together, +laden with wraps and satchels and shawl-straps, with the +weary wife and babies, in the waiting-room, till the doors +are thrown open—and then all hands make a grand final +rush to the train, find it full, and have to stand on +the platform and fret until some more cars are put on. +They are in a condition to kill somebody by this time. +Meantime, you have been sitting in your car, smoking, +and observing all this misery in the extremest comfort. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p352"></a><img alt="p352.jpg (64K)" src="images/p352.jpg" height="485" width="561"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>On the journey the guard is polite and watchful—won't +allow anybody to get into your compartment—tells them +you are just recovering from the small-pox and do not +like to be disturbed. For the courier has made everything +right with the guard. At way-stations the courier comes +to your compartment to see if you want a glass of water, +or a newspaper, or anything; at eating-stations he sends +luncheon out to you, while the other people scramble +and worry in the dining-rooms. If anything breaks about +the car you are in, and a station-master proposes to pack +you and your agent into a compartment with strangers, +the courier reveals to him confidentially that you are +a French duke born deaf and dumb, and the official comes +and makes affable signs that he has ordered a choice car +to be added to the train for you. + +<p>At custom-houses the multitude file tediously through, +hot and irritated, and look on while the officers +burrow into the trunks and make a mess of everything; +but you hand your keys to the courier and sit still. +Perhaps you arrive at your destination in a rain-storm +at ten at night—you generally do. The multitude +spend half an hour verifying their baggage and getting +it transferred to the omnibuses; but the courier puts +you into a vehicle without a moment's loss of time, +and when you reach your hotel you find your rooms have been +secured two or three days in advance, everything is ready, +you can go at once to bed. Some of those other people will +have to drift around to two or three hotels, in the rain, +before they find accommodations. + +<p>I have not set down half of the virtues that are +vested in a good courier, but I think I have set down +a sufficiency of them to show that an irritable man +who can afford one and does not employ him is not a +wise economist. My courier was the worst one in Europe, +yet he was a good deal better than none at all. +It could not pay him to be a better one than he was, +because I could not afford to buy things through him. +He was a good enough courier for the small amount he +got out of his service. Yes, to travel with a courier +is bliss, to travel without one is the reverse. + +<p>I have had dealings with some very bad couriers; but I have also +had dealings with one who might fairly be called perfection. +He was a young Polander, named Joseph N. Verey. He spoke +eight languages, and seemed to be equally at home in all +of them; he was shrewd, prompt, posted, and punctual; +he was fertile in resources, and singularly gifted in +the matter of overcoming difficulties; he not only knew +how to do everything in his line, but he knew the best ways +and the quickest; he was handy with children and invalids; +all his employer needed to do was to take life easy +and leave everything to the courier. His address is, +care of Messrs. Gay & Son, Strand, London; he was formerly +a conductor of Gay's tourist parties. Excellent couriers +are somewhat rare; if the reader is about to travel, +he will find it to his advantage to make a note of this one. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p354"></a><img alt="p354.jpg (22K)" src="images/p354.jpg" height="275" width="361"> +</center> + + +<br><br><br><br><br><br> +<a name="ch33"></a><center><h2>CHAPTER XXXIII</h2> +<h3>[We Climb Far—by Buggy]</h3></center> +<br><br> + + +<p>The beautiful Giesbach Fall is near Interlaken, on the +other side of the lake of Brienz, and is illuminated +every night with those gorgeous theatrical fires whose +name I cannot call just at this moment. This was said +to be a spectacle which the tourist ought by no means +to miss. I was strongly tempted, but I could not go +there with propriety, because one goes in a boat. +The task which I had set myself was to walk over Europe +on foot, not skim over it in a boat. I had made a tacit +contract with myself; it was my duty to abide by it. +I was willing to make boat trips for pleasure, but I could +not conscientiously make them in the way of business. + +<p>It cost me something of a pang to lose that fine sight, +but I lived down the desire, and gained in my self-respect +through the triumph. I had a finer and a grander sight, +however, where I was. This was the mighty dome of the Jungfrau +softly outlined against the sky and faintly silvered by +the starlight. There was something subduing in the influence +of that silent and solemn and awful presence; one seemed +to meet the immutable, the indestructible, the eternal, +face to face, and to feel the trivial and fleeting nature +of his own existence the more sharply by the contrast. +One had the sense of being under the brooding contemplation +of a spirit, not an inert mass of rocks and ice—a spirit +which had looked down, through the slow drift of the ages, +upon a million vanished races of men, and judged them; +and would judge a million more—and still be there, +watching, unchanged and unchangeable, after all life +should be gone and the earth have become a vacant desolation. + +<p>While I was feeling these things, I was groping, +without knowing it, toward an understanding of what the +spell is which people find in the Alps, and in no other +mountains—that strange, deep, nameless influence, which, +once felt, cannot be forgotten—once felt, leaves always +behind it a restless longing to feel it again—a longing +which is like homesickness; a grieving, haunting yearning +which will plead, implore, and persecute till it has its will. +I met dozens of people, imaginative and unimaginative, +cultivated and uncultivated, who had come from far countries +and roamed through the Swiss Alps year after year—they +could not explain why. They had come first, they said, +out of idle curiosity, because everybody talked about it; +they had come since because they could not help it, and they +should keep on coming, while they lived, for the same reason; +they had tried to break their chains and stay away, +but it was futile; now, they had no desire to break them. +Others came nearer formulating what they felt; they said they +could find perfect rest and peace nowhere else when they +were troubled: all frets and worries and chafings sank to +sleep in the presence of the benignant serenity of the Alps; +the Great Spirit of the Mountain breathed his own peace +upon their hurt minds and sore hearts, and healed them; +they could not think base thoughts or do mean and sordid +things here, before the visible throne of God. + +<p>Down the road a piece was a Kursaal—whatever that may +be—and we joined the human tide to see what sort of enjoyment +it might afford. It was the usual open-air concert, +in an ornamental garden, with wines, beer, milk, whey, +grapes, etc.—the whey and the grapes being necessaries +of life to certain invalids whom physicians cannot repair, +and who only continue to exist by the grace of whey +or grapes. One of these departed spirits told me, +in a sad and lifeless way, that there is no way for him +to live but by whey, and dearly, dearly loved whey, +he didn't know whey he did, but he did. After making +this pun he died—that is the whey it served him. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p357"></a><img alt="p357.jpg (25K)" src="images/p357.jpg" height="335" width="539"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>Some other remains, preserved from decomposition +by the grape system, told me that the grapes were of +a peculiar breed, highly medicinal in their nature, +and that they were counted out and administered by the +grape-doctors as methodically as if they were pills. +The new patient, if very feeble, began with one grape +before breakfast, took three during breakfast, a couple +between meals, five at luncheon, three in the afternoon, +seven at dinner, four for supper, and part of a grape +just before going to bed, by way of a general regulator. +The quantity was gradually and regularly increased, +according to the needs and capacities of the patient, +until by and by you would find him disposing of his one +grape per second all the day long, and his regular barrel +per day. + +<p>He said that men cured in this way, and enabled to discard +the grape system, never afterward got over the habit +of talking as if they were dictating to a slow amanuensis, +because they always made a pause between each two words +while they sucked the substance out of an imaginary grape. +He said these were tedious people to talk with. +He said that men who had been cured by the other process +were easily distinguished from the rest of mankind +because they always tilted their heads back, between every +two words, and swallowed a swig of imaginary whey. +He said it was an impressive thing to observe two men, +who had been cured by the two processes, engaged in +conversation—said their pauses and accompanying movements +were so continuous and regular that a stranger would think +himself in the presence of a couple of automatic machines. +One finds out a great many wonderful things, by traveling, +if he stumbles upon the right person. + +<p>I did not remain long at the Kursaal; the music was +good enough, but it seemed rather tame after the cyclone +of that Arkansaw expert. Besides, my adventurous spirit +had conceived a formidable enterprise—nothing less +than a trip from Interlaken, by the Gemmi and Visp, +clear to Zermatt, on foot! So it was necessary to plan +the details, and get ready for an early start. The courier +(this was not the one I have just been speaking of) +thought that the portier of the hotel would be able +to tell us how to find our way. And so it turned out. +He showed us the whole thing, on a relief-map, and we could +see our route, with all its elevations and depressions, +its villages and its rivers, as clearly as if we were sailing +over it in a balloon. A relief-map is a great thing. +The portier also wrote down each day's journey and the +nightly hotel on a piece of paper, and made our course +so plain that we should never be able to get lost without +high-priced outside help. + +<p>I put the courier in the care of a gentleman who was +going to Lausanne, and then we went to bed, after laying +out the walking-costumes and putting them into condition +for instant occupation in the morning. + +<p>However, when we came down to breakfast at 8 A.M., it +looked so much like rain that I hired a two-horse top-buggy +for the first third of the journey. For two or three hours +we jogged along the level road which skirts the beautiful +lake of Thun, with a dim and dreamlike picture of watery +expanses and spectral Alpine forms always before us, +veiled in a mellowing mist. Then a steady downpour +set in, and hid everything but the nearest objects. +We kept the rain out of our faces with umbrellas, and away +from our bodies with the leather apron of the buggy; +but the driver sat unsheltered and placidly soaked the weather +in and seemed to like it. We had the road to ourselves, +and I never had a pleasanter excursion. + +<p>The weather began to clear while we were driving up +a valley called the Kienthal, and presently a vast black +cloud-bank in front of us dissolved away and uncurtained +the grand proportions and the soaring loftiness of the +Blumis Alp. It was a sort of breath-taking surprise; +for we had not supposed there was anything behind +that low-hung blanket of sable cloud but level valley. +What we had been mistaking for fleeting glimpses of sky +away aloft there, were really patches of the Blumis's +snowy crest caught through shredded rents in the drifting +pall of vapor. + +<p>We dined in the inn at Frutigen, and our driver ought +to have dined there, too, but he would not have had +time to dine and get drunk both, so he gave his mind +to making a masterpiece of the latter, and succeeded. +A German gentleman and his two young-lady daughters had +been taking their nooning at the inn, and when they left, +just ahead of us, it was plain that their driver was +as drunk as ours, and as happy and good-natured, too, +which was saying a good deal. These rascals overflowed +with attentions and information for their guests, and with +brotherly love for each other. They tied their reins, +and took off their coats and hats, so that they might +be able to give unencumbered attention to conversation +and to the gestures necessary for its illustration. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p360"></a><img alt="p360.jpg (42K)" src="images/p360.jpg" height="479" width="559"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>The road was smooth; it led up and over and down a continual +succession of hills; but it was narrow, the horses were +used to it, and could not well get out of it anyhow; +so why shouldn't the drivers entertain themselves and us? +The noses of our horses projected sociably into the rear +of the forward carriage, and as we toiled up the long +hills our driver stood up and talked to his friend, +and his friend stood up and talked back to him, with his +rear to the scenery. When the top was reached and we +went flying down the other side, there was no change in +the program. I carry in my memory yet the picture of that +forward driver, on his knees on his high seat, resting his +elbows on its back, and beaming down on his passengers, +with happy eye, and flying hair, and jolly red face, +and offering his card to the old German gentleman while he +praised his hack and horses, and both teams were whizzing +down a long hill with nobody in a position to tell whether +we were bound to destruction or an undeserved safety. + +<p>Toward sunset we entered a beautiful green valley dotted +with chalets, a cozy little domain hidden away from the busy +world in a cloistered nook among giant precipices topped +with snowy peaks that seemed to float like islands above +the curling surf of the sea of vapor that severed them from +the lower world. Down from vague and vaporous heights, +little ruffled zigzag milky currents came crawling, +and found their way to the verge of one of those tremendous +overhanging walls, whence they plunged, a shaft of silver, +shivered to atoms in mid-descent and turned to an air puff +of luminous dust. Here and there, in grooved depressions +among the snowy desolations of the upper altitudes, +one glimpsed the extremity of a glacier, with its sea-green +and honeycombed battlements of ice. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p361"></a><img alt="p361.jpg (42K)" src="images/p361.jpg" height="827" width="309"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>Up the valley, under a dizzy precipice, nestled the +village of Kandersteg, our halting-place for the night. +We were soon there, and housed in the hotel. But the waning +day had such an inviting influence that we did not remain +housed many moments, but struck out and followed a roaring +torrent of ice-water up to its far source in a sort of +little grass-carpeted parlor, walled in all around by vast +precipices and overlooked by clustering summits of ice. +This was the snuggest little croquet-ground imaginable; +it was perfectly level, and not more than a mile long +by half a mile wide. The walls around it were so gigantic, +and everything about it was on so mighty a scale that it +was belittled, by contrast, to what I have likened it +to—a cozy and carpeted parlor. It was so high above +the Kandersteg valley that there was nothing between it +and the snowy-peaks. I had never been in such intimate +relations with the high altitudes before; the snow-peaks +had always been remote and unapproachable grandeurs, +hitherto, but now we were hob-a-nob—if one may use +such a seemingly irreverent expression about creations +so august as these. + +<p>We could see the streams which fed the torrent we +had followed issuing from under the greenish ramparts +of glaciers; but two or three of these, instead of flowing +over the precipices, sank down into the rock and sprang +in big jets out of holes in the mid-face of the walls. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p362"></a><img alt="p362.jpg (65K)" src="images/p362.jpg" height="733" width="583"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>The green nook which I have been describing is called +the Gasternthal. The glacier streams gather and flow through +it in a broad and rushing brook to a narrow cleft between +lofty precipices; here the rushing brook becomes a mad torrent +and goes booming and thundering down toward Kandersteg, +lashing and thrashing its way over and among monster boulders, +and hurling chance roots and logs about like straws. +There was no lack of cascades along this route. +The path by the side of the torrent was so narrow +that one had to look sharp, when he heard a cow-bell, +and hunt for a place that was wide enough to accommodate +a cow and a Christian side by side, and such places were +not always to be had at an instant's notice. The cows +wear church-bells, and that is a good idea in the cows, +for where that torrent is, you couldn't hear an ordinary +cow-bell any further than you could hear the ticking of a watch. + +<p>I needed exercise, so I employed my agent in setting +stranded logs and dead trees adrift, and I sat on a +boulder and watched them go whirling and leaping head +over heels down the boiling torrent. It was a wonderfully +exhilarating spectacle. When I had had enough exercise, +I made the agent take some, by running a race with one +of those logs. I made a trifle by betting on the log. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p363"></a><img alt="p363.jpg (53K)" src="images/p363.jpg" height="791" width="417"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>After dinner we had a walk up and down the Kandersteg valley, +in the soft gloaming, with the spectacle of the dying lights +of day playing about the crests and pinnacles of the still +and solemn upper realm for contrast, and text for talk. +There were no sounds but the dulled complaining of the +torrent and the occasional tinkling of a distant bell. +The spirit of the place was a sense of deep, pervading peace; +one might dream his life tranquilly away there, and not miss +it or mind it when it was gone. + +<p>The summer departed with the sun, and winter came with +the stars. It grew to be a bitter night in that little hotel, +backed up against a precipice that had no visible top to it, +but we kept warm, and woke in time in the morning to find +that everybody else had left for Gemmi three hours +before—so our little plan of helping that German family (principally +the old man) over the pass, was a blocked generosity. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p364"></a><img alt="p364.jpg (22K)" src="images/p364.jpg" height="317" width="351"> +</center> + + + +<br><br><br><br><br><br> +<a name="ch34"></a><center><h2>CHAPTER XXXIV</h2> +<h3>[The World's Highest Pig Farm]</h3></center> +<br><br> + + +<p>We hired the only guide left, to lead us on our way. +He was over seventy, but he could have given me nine-tenths +of his strength and still had all his age entitled him to. +He shouldered our satchels, overcoats, and alpenstocks, +and we set out up the steep path. It was hot work. +The old man soon begged us to hand over our coats +and waistcoats to him to carry, too, and we did it; +one could not refuse so little a thing to a poor old man +like that; he should have had them if he had been a hundred +and fifty. + +<p>When we began that ascent, we could see a microscopic +chalet perched away up against heaven on what seemed +to be the highest mountain near us. It was on our right, +across the narrow head of the valley. But when we got +up abreast it on its own level, mountains were towering +high above on every hand, and we saw that its altitude +was just about that of the little Gasternthal which we had +visited the evening before. Still it seemed a long way up +in the air, in that waste and lonely wilderness of rocks. +It had an unfenced grass-plot in front of it which seemed +about as big as a billiard-table, and this grass-plot +slanted so sharply downward, and was so brief, and ended +so exceedingly soon at the verge of the absolute precipice, +that it was a shuddery thing to think of a person's venturing +to trust his foot on an incline so situated at all. +Suppose a man stepped on an orange peel in that yard; +there would be nothing for him to seize; nothing could +keep him from rolling; five revolutions would bring him +to the edge, and over he would go. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p366"></a><img alt="p366.jpg (40K)" src="images/p366.jpg" height="481" width="395"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>What a frightful distance +he would fall!—for there are very few birds that fly +as high as his starting-point. He would strike and bounce, +two or three times, on his way down, but this would be +no advantage to him. I would as soon take an airing +on the slant of a rainbow as in such a front yard. +I would rather, in fact, for the distance down would be about +the same, and it is pleasanter to slide than to bounce. +I could not see how the peasants got up to that +chalet—the region seemed too steep for anything but a balloon. + +<p>As we strolled on, climbing up higher and higher, we were +continually bringing neighboring peaks into view and lofty +prominence which had been hidden behind lower peaks before; +so by and by, while standing before a group of these giants, +we looked around for the chalet again; there it was, +away down below us, apparently on an inconspicuous ridge +in the valley! It was as far below us, now, as it had been +above us when we were beginning the ascent. + +<p>After a while the path led us along a railed precipice, +and we looked over—far beneath us was the snug parlor again, +the little Gasternthal, with its water jets spouting +from the face of its rock walls. We could have dropped +a stone into it. We had been finding the top of the world +all along—and always finding a still higher top stealing +into view in a disappointing way just ahead; when we looked +down into the Gasternthal we felt pretty sure that we +had reached the genuine top at last, but it was not so; +there were much higher altitudes to be scaled yet. +We were still in the pleasant shade of forest trees, +we were still in a region which was cushioned with beautiful +mosses and aglow with the many-tinted luster of innumerable +wild flowers. + +<p>We found, indeed, more interest in the wild flowers +than in anything else. We gathered a specimen or two +of every kind which we were unacquainted with; so we +had sumptuous bouquets. But one of the chief interests +lay in chasing the seasons of the year up the mountain, +and determining them by the presence of flowers and +berries which we were acquainted with. For instance, +it was the end of August at the level of the sea; +in the Kandersteg valley at the base of the pass, +we found flowers which would not be due at the sea-level +for two or three weeks; higher up, we entered October, +and gathered fringed gentians. I made no notes, and have +forgotten the details, but the construction of the floral +calendar was very entertaining while it lasted. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p367"></a><img alt="p367.jpg (38K)" src="images/p367.jpg" height="577" width="385"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>In the high regions we found rich store of the splendid +red flower called the Alpine rose, but we did not find +any examples of the ugly Swiss favorite called Edelweiss. +Its name seems to indicate that it is a noble flower +and that it is white. It may be noble enough, +but it is not attractive, and it is not white. +The fuzzy blossom is the color of bad cigar ashes, +and appears to be made of a cheap quality of gray plush. +It has a noble and distant way of confining itself to the +high altitudes, but that is probably on account of its looks; +it apparently has no monopoly of those upper altitudes, +however, for they are sometimes intruded upon by some +of the loveliest of the valley families of wild flowers. +Everybody in the Alps wears a sprig of Edelweiss in his hat. +It is the native's pet, and also the tourist's. + +<p>All the morning, as we loafed along, having a good time, +other pedestrians went staving by us with vigorous strides, +and with the intent and determined look of men who were +walking for a wager. These wore loose knee-breeches, long +yarn stockings, and hobnailed high-laced walking-shoes. +They were gentlemen who would go home to England or Germany +and tell how many miles they had beaten the guide-book +every day. But I doubted if they ever had much real fun, +outside of the mere magnificent exhilaration of the +tramp through the green valleys and the breezy heights; +for they were almost always alone, and even the finest +scenery loses incalculably when there is no one to enjoy +it with. + +<p>All the morning an endless double procession of mule-mounted +tourists filed past us along the narrow path—the one +procession going, the other coming. We had taken +a good deal of trouble to teach ourselves the kindly +German custom of saluting all strangers with doffed hat, +and we resolutely clung to it, that morning, although it +kept us bareheaded most of the time and was not always +responded to. Still we found an interest in the thing, +because we naturally liked to know who were English +and Americans among the passers-by. All continental +natives responded of course; so did some of the English +and Americans, but, as a general thing, these two races +gave no sign. Whenever a man or a woman showed us +cold neglect, we spoke up confidently in our own tongue +and asked for such information as we happened to need, +and we always got a reply in the same language. +The English and American folk are not less kindly than +other races, they are only more reserved, and that comes +of habit and education. In one dreary, rocky waste, +away above the line of vegetation, we met a procession +of twenty-five mounted young men, all from America. +We got answering bows enough from these, of course, +for they were of an age to learn to do in Rome as Rome does, +without much effort. + +<p>At one extremity of this patch of desolation, overhung by bare +and forbidding crags which husbanded drifts of everlasting +snow in their shaded cavities, was a small stretch +of thin and discouraged grass, and a man and a family +of pigs were actually living here in some shanties. +Consequently this place could be really reckoned as +"property"; it had a money value, and was doubtless taxed. +I think it must have marked the limit of real estate +in this world. It would be hard to set a money value +upon any piece of earth that lies between that spot +and the empty realm of space. That man may claim the +distinction of owning the end of the world, for if there +is any definite end to the world he has certainly found it. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p369"></a><img alt="p369.jpg (32K)" src="images/p369.jpg" height="447" width="427"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>From here forward we moved through a storm-swept +and smileless desolation. All about us rose gigantic +masses, crags, and ramparts of bare and dreary rock, +with not a vestige or semblance of plant or tree or +flower anywhere, or glimpse of any creature that had life. +The frost and the tempests of unnumbered ages had battered +and hacked at these cliffs, with a deathless energy, +destroying them piecemeal; so all the region about +their bases was a tumbled chaos of great fragments +which had been split off and hurled to the ground. +Soiled and aged banks of snow lay close about our path. +The ghastly desolation of the place was as tremendously +complete as if Doré had furnished the working-plans +for it. But every now and then, through the stern +gateways around us we caught a view of some neighboring +majestic dome, sheathed with glittering ice, and displaying +its white purity at an elevation compared to which +ours was groveling and plebeian, and this spectacle +always chained one's interest and admiration at once, +and made him forget there was anything ugly in the world. + +<p>I have just said that there was nothing but death +and desolation in these hideous places, but I forgot. +In the most forlorn and arid and dismal one of all, +where the racked and splintered debris was thickest, +where the ancient patches of snow lay against the very path, +where the winds blew bitterest and the general aspect was +mournfulest and dreariest, and furthest from any suggestion +of cheer or hope, I found a solitary wee forget-me-not +flourishing away, not a droop about it anywhere, +but holding its bright blue star up with the prettiest +and gallantest air in the world, the only happy spirit, +the only smiling thing, in all that grisly desert. +She seemed to say, "Cheer up!—as long as we are here, +let us make the best of it." I judged she had earned +a right to a more hospitable place; so I plucked her up +and sent her to America to a friend who would respect +her for the fight she had made, all by her small self, +to make a whole vast despondent Alpine desolation stop +breaking its heart over the unalterable, and hold up its +head and look at the bright side of things for once. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p371"></a><img alt="p371.jpg (10K)" src="images/p371.jpg" height="263" width="257"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>We stopped for a nooning at a strongly built little inn +called the Schwarenbach. It sits in a lonely spot among +the peaks, where it is swept by the trailing fringes +of the cloud-rack, and is rained on, and snowed on, +and pelted and persecuted by the storms, nearly every day +of its life. It was the only habitation in the whole +Gemmi Pass. + +<p>Close at hand, now, was a chance for a blood-curdling +Alpine adventure. Close at hand was the snowy mass +of the Great Altels cooling its topknot in the sky +and daring us to an ascent. I was fired with the idea, +and immediately made up my mind to procure the necessary +guides, ropes, etc., and undertake it. I instructed +Harris to go to the landlord of the inn and set him +about our preparations. Meantime, I went diligently +to work to read up and find out what this much-talked-of +mountain-climbing was like, and how one should go about +it—for in these matters I was ignorant. I opened +Mr. Hinchliff's SUMMER MONTHS AMONG THE ALPS (published +1857), and selected his account of his ascent of Monte Rosa. + +<p>It began: + +<p> "It is very difficult to free the mind from excitement + on the evening before a grand expedition—" + +<p>I saw that I was too calm; so I walked the room a while +and worked myself into a high excitement; but the book's +next remark —that the adventurer must get up at two +in the morning—came as near as anything to flatting it +all out again. However, I reinforced it, and read on, +about how Mr. Hinchliff dressed by candle-light and was "soon +down among the guides, who were bustling about in the passage, +packing provisions, and making every preparation for the start"; +and how he glanced out into the cold clear night and saw +that— + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p373"></a><img alt="p373.jpg (46K)" src="images/p373.jpg" height="747" width="357"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>"The whole sky was blazing with stars, larger and brighter +than they appear through the dense atmosphere breathed +by inhabitants of the lower parts of the earth. +They seemed actually suspended from the dark vault +of heaven, and their gentle light shed a fairylike gleam +over the snow-fields around the foot of the Matterhorn, +which raised its stupendous pinnacle on high, penetrating to +the heart of the Great Bear, and crowning itself with a +diadem of his magnificent stars. Not a sound disturbed +the deep tranquillity of the night, except the distant +roar of streams which rush from the high plateau of the +St. Theodule glacier, and fall headlong over precipitous +rocks till they lose themselves in the mazes of +the Gorner glacier." + +<p>He took his hot toast and coffee, and then about +half past three his caravan of ten men filed away +from the Riffel Hotel, and began the steep climb. +At half past five he happened to turn around, and "beheld +the glorious spectacle of the Matterhorn, just touched +by the rosy-fingered morning, and looking like a huge +pyramid of fire rising out of the barren ocean of ice +and rock around it." Then the Breithorn and the Dent +Blanche caught the radiant glow; but "the intervening +mass of Monte Rosa made it necessary for us to climb many +long hours before we could hope to see the sun himself, +yet the whole air soon grew warmer after the splendid +birth of the day." + +<p>He gazed at the lofty crown of Monte Rosa and the wastes +of snow that guarded its steep approaches, and the chief +guide delivered the opinion that no man could conquer +their awful heights and put his foot upon that summit. +But the adventurers moved steadily on, nevertheless. + +<p>They toiled up, and up, and still up; they passed +the Grand Plateau; then toiled up a steep shoulder +of the mountain, clinging like flies to its rugged face; +and now they were confronted by a tremendous wall from +which great blocks of ice and snow were evidently in the +habit of falling. They turned aside to skirt this wall, +and gradually ascended until their way was barred by a "maze +of gigantic snow crevices,"—so they turned aside again, +and "began a long climb of sufficient steepness to make +a zigzag course necessary." + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p375"></a><img alt="p375.jpg (53K)" src="images/p375.jpg" height="843" width="351"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>Fatigue compelled them to halt frequently, for a moment +or two. At one of these halts somebody called out, +"Look at Mont Blanc!" and "we were at once made aware +of the very great height we had attained by actually seeing +the monarch of the Alps and his attendant satellites +right over the top of the Breithorn, itself at least +14,000 feet high!" + +<p>These people moved in single file, and were all tied +to a strong rope, at regular distances apart, so that if +one of them slipped on those giddy heights, the others +could brace themselves on their alpenstocks and save him +from darting into the valley, thousands of feet below. +By and by they came to an ice-coated ridge which was tilted +up at a sharp angle, and had a precipice on one side of it. +They had to climb this, so the guide in the lead cut +steps in the ice with his hatchet, and as fast as he +took his toes out of one of these slight holes, the toes +of the man behind him occupied it. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p376"></a><img alt="p376.jpg (76K)" src="images/p376.jpg" height="775" width="547"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>"Slowly and steadily we kept on our way over this dangerous +part of the ascent, and I dare say it was fortunate for +some of us that attention was distracted from the head +by the paramount necessity of looking after the feet; +FOR, WHILE ON THE LEFT THE INCLINE OF ICE WAS SO STEEP +THAT IT WOULD BE IMPOSSIBLE FOR ANY MAN TO SAVE HIMSELF +IN CASE OF A SLIP, UNLESS THE OTHERS COULD HOLD HIM UP, +ON THE RIGHT WE MIGHT DROP A PEBBLE FROM THE HAND OVER +PRECIPICES OF UNKNOWN EXTENT DOWN UPON THE TREMENDOUS +GLACIER BELOW. + +<p>"Great caution, therefore, was absolutely necessary, +and in this exposed situation we were attacked by all +the fury of that grand enemy of aspirants to Monte +Rosa—a severe and bitterly cold wind from the north. +The fine powdery snow was driven past us in the clouds, +penetrating the interstices of our clothes, and the pieces +of ice which flew from the blows of Peter's ax were +whisked into the air, and then dashed over the precipice. +We had quite enough to do to prevent ourselves from being +served in the same ruthless fashion, and now and then, +in the more violent gusts of wind, were glad to stick our +alpenstocks into the ice and hold on hard." + +<p>Having surmounted this perilous steep, they sat down and +took a brief rest with their backs against a sheltering +rock and their heels dangling over a bottomless abyss; +then they climbed to the base of another ridge—a more +difficult and dangerous one still: + +<p>"The whole of the ridge was exceedingly narrow, and the +fall on each side desperately steep, but the ice in some +of these intervals between the masses of rock assumed +the form of a mere sharp edge, almost like a knife; +these places, though not more than three or four short +paces in length, looked uncommonly awkward; but, like the +sword leading true believers to the gates of Paradise, +they must needs be passed before we could attain to +the summit of our ambition. These were in one or two +places so narrow, that in stepping over them with toes +well turned out for greater security, ONE END OF THE +FOOT PROJECTED OVER THE AWFUL PRECIPICE ON THE RIGHT, +WHILE THE OTHER WAS ON THE BEGINNING OF THE ICE SLOPE ON +THE LEFT, WHICH WAS SCARCELY LESS STEEP THAN THE ROCKS. +On these occasions Peter would take my hand, and each +of us stretching as far as we could, he was thus enabled +to get a firm footing two paces or rather more from me, +whence a spring would probably bring him to the rock +on the other side; then, turning around, he called +to me to come, and, taking a couple of steps carefully, +I was met at the third by his outstretched hand ready +to clasp mine, and in a moment stood by his side. +The others followed in much the same fashion. Once my +right foot slipped on the side toward the precipice, +but I threw out my left arm in a moment so that it caught +the icy edge under my armpit as I fell, and supported +me considerably; at the same instant I cast my eyes +down the side on which I had slipped, and contrived +to plant my right foot on a piece of rock as large as a +cricket-ball, which chanced to protrude through the ice, +on the very edge of the precipice. Being thus anchored +fore and aft, as it were, I believe I could easily have +recovered myself, even if I had been alone, though it must +be confessed the situation would have been an awful one; +as it was, however, a jerk from Peter settled the matter +very soon, and I was on my legs all right in an instant. +The rope is an immense help in places of this kind." + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p379"></a><img alt="p379.jpg (19K)" src="images/p379.jpg" height="443" width="239"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>Now they arrived at the base of a great knob or dome +veneered with ice and powdered with snow—the utmost, +summit, the last bit of solidity between them and the hollow +vault of heaven. They set to work with their hatchets, +and were soon creeping, insectlike, up its surface, with their +heels projecting over the thinnest kind of nothingness, +thickened up a little with a few wandering shreds and +films of cloud moving in a lazy procession far below. +Presently, one man's toe-hold broke and he fell! There he +dangled in mid-air at the end of the rope, like a spider, +till his friends above hauled him into place again. + +<p>A little bit later, the party stood upon the wee pedestal +of the very summit, in a driving wind, and looked out +upon the vast green expanses of Italy and a shoreless +ocean of billowy Alps. + +<p>When I had read thus far, Harris broke into the room +in a noble excitement and said the ropes and the guides +were secured, and asked if I was ready. I said I +believed I wouldn't ascend the Altels this time. +I said Alp-climbing was a different thing from what I had +supposed it was, and so I judged we had better study its +points a little more before we went definitely into it. +But I told him to retain the guides and order them to +follow us to Zermatt, because I meant to use them there. +I said I could feel the spirit of adventure beginning +to stir in me, and was sure that the fell fascination +of Alp-climbing would soon be upon me. I said he could +make up his mind to it that we would do a deed before we +were a week older which would make the hair of the timid +curl with fright. + +<p>This made Harris happy, and filled him with ambitious +anticipations. He went at once to tell the guides to +follow us to Zermatt and bring all their paraphernalia +with them. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p380"></a><img alt="p380.jpg (23K)" src="images/p380.jpg" height="517" width="409"> +</center> + + + +<br><br><br><br><br><br> +<a name="ch35"></a><center><h2>CHAPTER XXXV</h2> +<h3>[Swindling the Coroner]</h3></center> +<br><br> + + +<p>A great and priceless thing is a new interest! How +it takes possession of a man! how it clings to him, +how it rides him! I strode onward from the Schwarenbach +hostelry a changed man, a reorganized personality. +I walked into a new world, I saw with new eyes. +I had been looking aloft at the giant show-peaks only as +things to be worshiped for their grandeur and magnitude, +and their unspeakable grace of form; I looked up at +them now, as also things to be conquered and climbed. +My sense of their grandeur and their noble beauty +was neither lost nor impaired; I had gained a new +interest in the mountains without losing the old ones. +I followed the steep lines up, inch by inch, with my eye, +and noted the possibility or impossibility of following +them with my feet. When I saw a shining helmet of ice +projecting above the clouds, I tried to imagine I saw +files of black specks toiling up it roped together with a +gossamer thread. + +<p>We skirted the lonely little lake called the Daubensee, +and presently passed close by a glacier on the +right—a thing like a great river frozen solid in its flow +and broken square off like a wall at its mouth. +I had never been so near a glacier before. + +<p>Here we came upon a new board shanty, and found some men +engaged in building a stone house; so the Schwarenbach was +soon to have a rival. We bought a bottle or so of beer here; +at any rate they called it beer, but I knew by the price +that it was dissolved jewelry, and I perceived by the +taste that dissolved jewelry is not good stuff to drink. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p382"></a><img alt="p382.jpg (45K)" src="images/p382.jpg" height="461" width="555"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>We were surrounded by a hideous desolation. We stepped +forward to a sort of jumping-off place, and were confronted +by a startling contrast: we seemed to look down into fairyland. +Two or three thousand feet below us was a bright green level, +with a pretty town in its midst, and a silvery stream +winding among the meadows; the charming spot was walled +in on all sides by gigantic precipices clothed with pines; +and over the pines, out of the softened distances, +rose the snowy domes and peaks of the Monte Rosa region. +How exquisitely green and beautiful that little valley +down there was! The distance was not great enough to +obliterate details, it only made them little, and mellow, +and dainty, like landscapes and towns seen through the +wrong end of a spy-glass. + +<p>Right under us a narrow ledge rose up out of the valley, +with a green, slanting, bench-shaped top, and grouped +about upon this green-baize bench were a lot of black +and white sheep which looked merely like oversized worms. +The bench seemed lifted well up into our neighborhood, +but that was a deception—it was a long way down to it. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p383"></a><img alt="p383.jpg (98K)" src="images/p383.jpg" height="408" width="650"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>We began our descent, now, by the most remarkable road I +have ever seen. It wound its corkscrew curves down the face +of the colossal precipice—a narrow way, with always +the solid rock wall at one elbow, and perpendicular +nothingness at the other. We met an everlasting procession +of guides, porters, mules, litters, and tourists climbing +up this steep and muddy path, and there was no room +to spare when you had to pass a tolerably fat mule. +I always took the inside, when I heard or saw the +mule coming, and flattened myself against the wall. +I preferred the inside, of course, but I should have had +to take it anyhow, because the mule prefers the outside. +A mule's preference—on a precipice—is a thing to +be respected. Well, his choice is always the outside. +His life is mostly devoted to carrying bulky panniers +and packages which rest against his body—therefore he +is habituated to taking the outside edge of mountain paths, +to keep his bundles from rubbing against rocks or banks +on the other. When he goes into the passenger business he +absurdly clings to his old habit, and keeps one leg of his +passenger always dangling over the great deeps of the lower +world while that passenger's heart is in the highlands, +so to speak. More than once I saw a mule's hind foot +cave over the outer edge and send earth and rubbish into +the bottom abyss; and I noticed that upon these occasions +the rider, whether male or female, looked tolerably unwell. + +<p>There was one place where an eighteen-inch breadth of +light masonry had been added to the verge of the path, +and as there was a very sharp turn here, a panel of fencing +had been set up there at some time, as a protection. +This panel was old and gray and feeble, and the light +masonry had been loosened by recent rains. A young +American girl came along on a mule, and in making the turn +the mule's hind foot caved all the loose masonry and one +of the fence-posts overboard; the mule gave a violent lurch +inboard to save himself, and succeeded in the effort, +but that girl turned as white as the snows of Mont Blanc +for a moment. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p386"></a><img alt="p386.jpg (51K)" src="images/p386.jpg" height="549" width="465"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>The path was simply a groove cut into the face of +the precipice; there was a four-foot breadth of solid rock +under the traveler, and four-foot breadth of solid rock +just above his head, like the roof of a narrow porch; +he could look out from this gallery and see a sheer +summitless and bottomless wall of rock before him, +across a gorge or crack a biscuit's toss in +width—but he could not see the bottom of his own precipice +unless he lay down and projected his nose over the edge. +I did not do this, because I did not wish to soil my clothes. + +<p>Every few hundred yards, at particularly bad places, +one came across a panel or so of plank fencing; but they +were always old and weak, and they generally leaned +out over the chasm and did not make any rash promises +to hold up people who might need support. There was one +of these panels which had only its upper board left; +a pedestrianizing English youth came tearing down the path, +was seized with an impulse to look over the precipice, +and without an instant's thought he threw his weight +upon that crazy board. It bent outward a foot! I never +made a gasp before that came so near suffocating me. +The English youth's face simply showed a lively surprise, +but nothing more. He went swinging along valleyward again, +as if he did not know he had just swindled a coroner by the +closest kind of a shave. + +<p>The Alpine litter is sometimes like a cushioned box +made fast between the middles of two long poles, +and sometimes it is a chair with a back to it and a support +for the feet. It is carried by relays of strong porters. +The motion is easier than that of any other conveyance. +We met a few men and a great many ladies in litters; +it seemed to me that most of the ladies looked pale +and nauseated; their general aspect gave me the idea +that they were patiently enduring a horrible suffering. +As a rule, they looked at their laps, and left the scenery +to take care of itself. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p387"></a><img alt="p387.jpg (19K)" src="images/p387.jpg" height="317" width="461"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>But the most frightened creature I saw, was a led horse +that overtook us. Poor fellow, he had been born and reared +in the grassy levels of the Kandersteg valley and had +never seen anything like this hideous place before. +Every few steps he would stop short, glance wildly out from +the dizzy height, and then spread his red nostrils wide +and pant as violently as if he had been running a race; +and all the while he quaked from head to heel as with +a palsy. He was a handsome fellow, and he made a fine +statuesque picture of terror, but it was pitiful to see +him suffer so. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p388"></a><img alt="p388.jpg (32K)" src="images/p388.jpg" height="607" width="335"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>This dreadful path has had its tragedy. Baedeker, with his +customary over terseness, begins and ends the tale thus: + +<p>"The descent on horseback should be avoided. +In 1861 a Comtesse d'Herlincourt fell from her saddle +over the precipice and was killed on the spot." + +<p>We looked over the precipice there, and saw the monument +which commemorates the event. It stands in the bottom +of the gorge, in a place which has been hollowed out of +the rock to protect it from the torrent and the storms. +Our old guide never spoke but when spoken to, and then +limited himself to a syllable or two, but when we asked +him about this tragedy he showed a strong interest +in the matter. He said the Countess was very pretty, +and very young—hardly out of her girlhood, in fact. +She was newly married, and was on her bridal tour. +The young husband was riding a little in advance; one guide +was leading the husband's horse, another was leading the +bride's. + +<p>The old man continued: + +<p>"The guide that was leading the husband's horse happened +to glance back, and there was that poor young thing sitting +up staring out over the precipice; and her face began +to bend downward a little, and she put up her two hands +slowly and met it—so,—and put them flat against her +eyes—so—and then she sank out of the saddle, with a +sharp shriek, and one caught only the flash of a dress, +and it was all over." + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p389"></a><img alt="p389.jpg (92K)" src="images/p389.jpg" height="961" width="599"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>Then after a pause: + +<p>"Ah, yes, that guide saw these things—yes, he saw them all. +He saw them all, just as I have told you." + +<p>After another pause: + +<p>"Ah, yes, he saw them all. My God, that was ME. +I was that guide!" + +<p>This had been the one event of the old man's life; so one +may be sure he had forgotten no detail connected with it. +We listened to all he had to say about what was done and what +happened and what was said after the sorrowful occurrence, +and a painful story it was. + +<p>When we had wound down toward the valley until we were about +on the last spiral of the corkscrew, Harris's hat blew +over the last remaining bit of precipice—a small cliff +a hundred or hundred and fifty feet high—and sailed down +toward a steep slant composed of rough chips and fragments +which the weather had flaked away from the precipices. +We went leisurely down there, expecting to find it without +any trouble, but we had made a mistake, as to that. +We hunted during a couple of hours—not because the old +straw hat was valuable, but out of curiosity to find out +how such a thing could manage to conceal itself in open +ground where there was nothing left for it to hide behind. +When one is reading in bed, and lays his paper-knife down, +he cannot find it again if it is smaller than a saber; +that hat was as stubborn as any paper-knife could have been, +and we finally had to give it up; but we found a fragment +that had once belonged to an opera-glass, and by digging +around and turning over the rocks we gradually collected +all the lenses and the cylinders and the various odds +and ends that go to making up a complete opera-glass. +We afterward had the thing reconstructed, and the owner +can have his adventurous lost-property by submitting +proofs and paying costs of rehabilitation. We had hopes +of finding the owner there, distributed around amongst +the rocks, for it would have made an elegant paragraph; +but we were disappointed. Still, we were far from +being disheartened, for there was a considerable area +which we had not thoroughly searched; we were satisfied he +was there, somewhere, so we resolved to wait over a day at +Leuk and come back and get him. + +<p>Then we sat down to polish off the perspiration and +arrange about what we would do with him when we got him. +Harris was for contributing him to the British Museum; +but I was for mailing him to his widow. That is the difference +between Harris and me: Harris is all for display, I am +all for the simple right, even though I lose money by it. +Harris argued in favor of his proposition against mine, +I argued in favor of mine and against his. The discussion +warmed into a dispute; the dispute warmed into a quarrel. +I finally said, very decidedly: + +<p>"My mind is made up. He goes to the widow." + +<p>Harris answered sharply: + +<p>"And MY mind is made up. He goes to the Museum." + +<p>I said, calmly: + +<p>"The museum may whistle when it gets him." + +<p>Harris retorted: + +<p>"The widow may save herself the trouble of whistling, +for I will see that she never gets him." + +<p>After some angry bandying of epithets, I said: + +<p>"It seems to me that you are taking on a good many airs +about these remains. I don't quite see what YOU'VE got +to say about them?" + +<p>"I? I've got ALL to say about them. They'd never have +been thought of if I hadn't found their opera-glass. The +corpse belongs to me, and I'll do as I please with him." + +<p>I was leader of the Expedition, and all discoveries +achieved by it naturally belonged to me. I was entitled +to these remains, and could have enforced my right; +but rather than have bad blood about the matter, +I said we would toss up for them. I threw heads and won, +but it was a barren victory, for although we spent all +the next day searching, we never found a bone. I cannot +imagine what could ever have become of that fellow. + +<p>The town in the valley is called Leuk or Leukerbad. +We pointed our course toward it, down a verdant slope +which was adorned with fringed gentians and other flowers, +and presently entered the narrow alleys of the outskirts +and waded toward the middle of the town through liquid +"fertilizer." They ought to either pave that village or +organize a ferry. + +<p>Harris's body was simply a chamois-pasture; his person +was populous with the little hungry pests; his skin, +when he stripped, was splotched like a scarlet-fever patient's; +so, when we were about to enter one of the Leukerbad inns, +and he noticed its sign, "Chamois Hotel," he refused +to stop there. He said the chamois was plentiful enough, +without hunting up hotels where they made a specialty of it. +I was indifferent, for the chamois is a creature that will +neither bite me nor abide with me; but to calm Harris, +we went to the Hôtel des Alpes. + +<p>At the table d'hôte, we had this, for an incident. +A very grave man—in fact his gravity amounted to solemnity, +and almost to austerity—sat opposite us and he was +"tight," but doing his best to appear sober. He took up +a CORKED bottle of wine, tilted it over his glass awhile, +then set it out of the way, with a contented look, and went +on with his dinner. + +<p>Presently he put his glass to his mouth, and of course +found it empty. He looked puzzled, and glanced furtively +and suspiciously out of the corner of his eye at a +benignant and unconscious old lady who sat at his right. +Shook his head, as much as to say, "No, she couldn't have +done it." He tilted the corked bottle over his glass again, +meantime searching around with his watery eye to see +if anybody was watching him. He ate a few mouthfuls, +raised his glass to his lips, and of course it was +still empty. He bent an injured and accusing side-glance +upon that unconscious old lady, which was a study to see. +She went on eating and gave no sign. He took up his glass +and his bottle, with a wise private nod of his head, +and set them gravely on the left-hand side of his +plate—poured himself another imaginary drink—went to work +with his knife and fork once more—presently lifted +his glass with good confidence, and found it empty, +as usual. + +<p>This was almost a petrifying surprise. He straightened +himself up in his chair and deliberately and sorrowfully +inspected the busy old ladies at his elbows, first one and +then the other. At last he softly pushed his plate away, +set his glass directly in front of him, held on to it +with his left hand, and proceeded to pour with his right. +This time he observed that nothing came. He turned the +bottle clear upside down; still nothing issued from it; +a plaintive look came into his face, and he said, as if +to himself, + +<p>"'IC! THEY'VE GOT IT ALL!" Then he set the bottle down, +resignedly, and took the rest of his dinner dry. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p392"></a><img alt="p392.jpg (22K)" src="images/p392.jpg" height="425" width="249"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>It was at that table d'hôte, too, that I had under inspection +the largest lady I have ever seen in private life. +She was over seven feet high, and magnificently proportioned. +What had first called my attention to her, was my stepping +on an outlying flange of her foot, and hearing, from up +toward the ceiling, a deep "Pardon, m'sieu, but you encroach!" + +<p>That was when we were coming through the hall, and the place +was dim, and I could see her only vaguely. The thing +which called my attention to her the second time was, +that at a table beyond ours were two very pretty girls, +and this great lady came in and sat down between them +and me and blotted out my view. She had a handsome face, +and she was very finely formed—perfectly formed, +I should say. But she made everybody around her look trivial +and commonplace. Ladies near her looked like children, +and the men about her looked mean. They looked like failures; +and they looked as if they felt so, too. She sat with +her back to us. I never saw such a back in my life. +I would have so liked to see the moon rise over it. +The whole congregation waited, under one pretext or another, +till she finished her dinner and went out; they wanted to see +her at full altitude, and they found it worth tarrying for. +She filled one's idea of what an empress ought to be, +when she rose up in her unapproachable grandeur and moved +superbly out of that place. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p393"></a><img alt="p393.jpg (24K)" src="images/p393.jpg" height="491" width="293"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>We were not at Leuk in time to see her at her heaviest weight. +She had suffered from corpulence and had come there to get +rid of her extra flesh in the baths. Five weeks of +soaking—five uninterrupted hours of it every day—had accomplished +her purpose and reduced her to the right proportions. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p394"></a><img alt="p394.jpg (38K)" src="images/p394.jpg" height="477" width="569"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>Those baths remove fat, and also skin-diseases. The +patients remain in the great tanks for hours at a time. +A dozen gentlemen and ladies occupy a tank together, +and amuse themselves with rompings and various games. +They have floating desks and tables, and they read or lunch +or play chess in water that is breast-deep. The tourist +can step in and view this novel spectacle if he chooses. +There's a poor-box, and he will have to contribute. +There are several of these big bathing-houses, and you can +always tell when you are near one of them by the romping +noises and shouts of laughter that proceed from it. +The water is running water, and changes all the time, +else a patient with a ringworm might take the bath with only +a partial success, since, while he was ridding himself of +the ringworm, he might catch the itch. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p395"></a><img alt="p395.jpg (88K)" src="images/p395.jpg" height="548" width="652"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>The next morning we wandered back up the green valley, +leisurely, with the curving walls of those bare and +stupendous precipices rising into the clouds before us. +I had never seen a clean, bare precipice stretching up +five thousand feet above me before, and I never shall +expect to see another one. They exist, perhaps, but not +in places where one can easily get close to them. +This pile of stone is peculiar. From its base to the +soaring tops of its mighty towers, all its lines and +all its details vaguely suggest human architecture. +There are rudimentary bow-windows, cornices, chimneys, +demarcations of stories, etc. One could sit and stare up +there and study the features and exquisite graces of this +grand structure, bit by bit, and day after day, and never +weary his interest. The termination, toward the town, +observed in profile, is the perfection of shape. +It comes down out of the clouds in a succession of rounded, +colossal, terracelike projections—a stairway for the gods; +at its head spring several lofty storm-scarred towers, +one after another, with faint films of vapor curling +always about them like spectral banners. If there were +a king whose realms included the whole world, here would +be the place meet and proper for such a monarch. He would +only need to hollow it out and put in the electric light. +He could give audience to a nation at a time under its roof. + +<p>Our search for those remains having failed, we inspected with +a glass the dim and distant track of an old-time avalanche +that once swept down from some pine-grown summits behind +the town and swept away the houses and buried the people; +then we struck down the road that leads toward the Rhone, +to see the famous Ladders. These perilous things are +built against the perpendicular face of a cliff two or +three hundred feet high. The peasants, of both sexes, +were climbing up and down them, with heavy loads on +their backs. I ordered Harris to make the ascent, so I +could put the thrill and horror of it in my book, and he +accomplished the feat successfully, through a subagent, +for three francs, which I paid. It makes me shudder yet +when I think of what I felt when I was clinging there +between heaven and earth in the person of that proxy. +At times the world swam around me, and I could hardly keep +from letting go, so dizzying was the appalling danger. +Many a person would have given up and descended, but I stuck +to my task, and would not yield until I had accomplished it. +I felt a just pride in my exploit, but I would not +have repeated it for the wealth of the world. I shall +break my neck yet with some such foolhardy performance, +for warnings never seem to have any lasting effect on me. +When the people of the hotel found that I had been +climbing those crazy Ladders, it made me an object of +considerable attention. + +<p>Next morning, early, we drove to the Rhone valley and took +the train for Visp. There we shouldered our knapsacks +and things, and set out on foot, in a tremendous rain, +up the winding gorge, toward Zermatt. Hour after hour we +slopped along, by the roaring torrent, and under noble +Lesser Alps which were clothed in rich velvety green +all the way up and had little atomy Swiss homes perched +upon grassy benches along their mist-dimmed heights. + +<p>The rain continued to pour and the torrent to boom, and we +continued to enjoy both. At the one spot where this torrent +tossed its white mane highest, and thundered loudest, +and lashed the big boulders fiercest, the canton had done +itself the honor to build the flimsiest wooden bridge +that exists in the world. While we were walking over it, +along with a party of horsemen, I noticed that even +the larger raindrops made it shake. I called Harris's +attention to it, and he noticed it, too. It seemed +to me that if I owned an elephant that was a keepsake, +and I thought a good deal of him, I would think twice +before I would ride him over that bridge. + +<p>We climbed up to the village of St. Nicholas, about half +past four in the afternoon, waded ankle-deep through +the fertilizer-juice, and stopped at a new and nice hotel +close by the little church. We stripped and went to bed, +and sent our clothes down to be baked. And the horde +of soaked tourists did the same. That chaos of clothing +got mixed in the kitchen, and there were consequences. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p399"></a><img alt="p399.jpg (43K)" src="images/p399.jpg" height="439" width="559"> +</center> +<br><br><br><br> + +<p>I did not get back the same drawers I sent down, when our +things came up at six-fifteen; I got a pair on a new plan. +They were merely a pair of white ruffle-cuffed absurdities, +hitched together at the top with a narrow band, and they did +not come quite down to my knees. They were pretty enough, +but they made me feel like two people, and disconnected +at that. The man must have been an idiot that got himself +up like that, to rough it in the Swiss mountains. +The shirt they brought me was shorter than the drawers, +and hadn't any sleeves to it—at least it hadn't anything +more than what Mr. Darwin would call "rudimentary" sleeves; +these had "edging" around them, but the bosom was +ridiculously plain. The knit silk undershirt they brought +me was on a new plan, and was really a sensible thing; +it opened behind, and had pockets in it to put your +shoulder-blades in; but they did not seem to fit mine, +and so I found it a sort of uncomfortable garment. +They gave my bobtail coat to somebody else, and sent me +an ulster suitable for a giraffe. I had to tie my collar on, +because there was no button behind on that foolish little shirt +which I described a while ago. + +<p>When I was dressed for dinner at six-thirty, I was too loose +in some places and too tight in others, and altogether I +felt slovenly and ill-conditioned. However, the people +at the table d'hôte were no better off than I was; +they had everybody's clothes but their own on. A long +stranger recognized his ulster as soon as he saw the tail +of it following me in, but nobody claimed my shirt or +my drawers, though I described them as well as I was able. +I gave them to the chambermaid that night when I went +to bed, and she probably found the owner, for my own +things were on a chair outside my door in the morning. + +<p>There was a lovable English clergyman who did +not get to the table d'hôte at all. His breeches +had turned up missing, and without any equivalent. +He said he was not more particular than other people, +but he had noticed that a clergyman at dinner without +any breeches was almost sure to excite remark. + +<br><br><br><br> +<center><a name="p400"></a><img alt="p400.jpg (8K)" src="images/p400.jpg" height="261" width="267"> +</center> + + + + + + +<br> +<br> + + +<center> +<table summary="" cellPadding=4 border=3> +<tr><td> + + + <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/5785/5785-h/5785-h.htm">Previous Part</a> +</td><td> + <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/5787/5787-h/5787-h.htm">Next Part</a> + + + +</td></tr> +</table> +</center> + + + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's A Tramp Abroad, by Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens) + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A TRAMP ABROAD *** + +***** This file should be named 5786-h.htm or 5786-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/5/7/8/5786/ + +Produced by Anonymous Volunteers, John Greenman and David Widger + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +http://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +http://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at http://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit http://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + http://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + + +</pre> + +</body> +</html> + diff --git a/5786-h/images/Moses.jpg b/5786-h/images/Moses.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..99ebb4e --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/Moses.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/Portrait.jpg b/5786-h/images/Portrait.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..78ccefc --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/Portrait.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/Titlepage.jpg b/5786-h/images/Titlepage.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a2adde1 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/Titlepage.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/cover.jpg b/5786-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..388d177 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p016.jpg b/5786-h/images/p016.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8322281 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p016.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p302.jpg b/5786-h/images/p302.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5181393 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p302.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p303.jpg b/5786-h/images/p303.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0fbf194 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p303.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p305.jpg b/5786-h/images/p305.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fede01c --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p305.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p307.jpg b/5786-h/images/p307.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b87e881 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p307.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p308.jpg b/5786-h/images/p308.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fa74dcc --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p308.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p309.jpg b/5786-h/images/p309.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d2e37fb --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p309.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p313.jpg b/5786-h/images/p313.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..67f94d3 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p313.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p314.jpg b/5786-h/images/p314.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..db76d2b --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p314.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p317.jpg b/5786-h/images/p317.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ca56682 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p317.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p319.jpg b/5786-h/images/p319.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..174bbbb --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p319.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p322.jpg b/5786-h/images/p322.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9084bd5 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p322.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p324.jpg b/5786-h/images/p324.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..14ac309 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p324.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p325.jpg b/5786-h/images/p325.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8b0b8ce --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p325.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p326.jpg b/5786-h/images/p326.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2067abf --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p326.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p327.jpg b/5786-h/images/p327.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d94b05c --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p327.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p330.jpg b/5786-h/images/p330.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b185527 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p330.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p331.jpg b/5786-h/images/p331.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8916c32 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p331.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p333.jpg b/5786-h/images/p333.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bd78fd1 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p333.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p333b.jpg b/5786-h/images/p333b.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9fecb6d --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p333b.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p334.jpg b/5786-h/images/p334.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..687ee71 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p334.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p335.jpg b/5786-h/images/p335.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f4c117c --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p335.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p338.jpg b/5786-h/images/p338.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5f25e6f --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p338.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p339.jpg b/5786-h/images/p339.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5928797 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p339.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p341.jpg b/5786-h/images/p341.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..452d42b --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p341.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p342.jpg b/5786-h/images/p342.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..52fd91a --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p342.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p344.jpg b/5786-h/images/p344.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a09c7d9 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p344.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p346.jpg b/5786-h/images/p346.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8a4087b --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p346.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p349.jpg b/5786-h/images/p349.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..457d22f --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p349.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p351.jpg b/5786-h/images/p351.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0793640 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p351.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p352.jpg b/5786-h/images/p352.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..407b070 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p352.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p354.jpg b/5786-h/images/p354.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ceedb0c --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p354.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p357.jpg b/5786-h/images/p357.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6e25072 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p357.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p360.jpg b/5786-h/images/p360.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ce47e59 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p360.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p361.jpg b/5786-h/images/p361.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..83c2c35 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p361.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p362.jpg b/5786-h/images/p362.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..84623b1 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p362.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p363.jpg b/5786-h/images/p363.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..658d9de --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p363.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p364.jpg b/5786-h/images/p364.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5a5b41b --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p364.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p366.jpg b/5786-h/images/p366.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1e78d74 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p366.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p367.jpg b/5786-h/images/p367.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a60d123 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p367.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p369.jpg b/5786-h/images/p369.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4d88dea --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p369.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p371.jpg b/5786-h/images/p371.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..314e9e1 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p371.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p373.jpg b/5786-h/images/p373.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..917300a --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p373.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p375.jpg b/5786-h/images/p375.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0cf78d7 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p375.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p376.jpg b/5786-h/images/p376.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8f91350 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p376.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p379.jpg b/5786-h/images/p379.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..39059b7 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p379.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p380.jpg b/5786-h/images/p380.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d2ba549 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p380.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p382.jpg b/5786-h/images/p382.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3450e95 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p382.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p383.jpg b/5786-h/images/p383.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..024e674 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p383.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p386.jpg b/5786-h/images/p386.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7d565c9 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p386.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p387.jpg b/5786-h/images/p387.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8ccb32b --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p387.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p388.jpg b/5786-h/images/p388.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..574947c --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p388.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p389.jpg b/5786-h/images/p389.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..40fcd45 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p389.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p392.jpg b/5786-h/images/p392.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..65f81a5 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p392.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p393.jpg b/5786-h/images/p393.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..23229e8 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p393.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p394.jpg b/5786-h/images/p394.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..62fe0de --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p394.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p395.jpg b/5786-h/images/p395.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6ebe796 --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p395.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p399.jpg b/5786-h/images/p399.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..840cf7e --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p399.jpg diff --git a/5786-h/images/p400.jpg b/5786-h/images/p400.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cc826cd --- /dev/null +++ b/5786-h/images/p400.jpg |
