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+Project Gutenberg's A Tramp Abroad, Part 1, by Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens)
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.net
+
+
+Title: A Tramp Abroad, Part 1
+
+Author: Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens)
+
+Release Date: June 17, 2004 [EBook #5782]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A TRAMP ABROAD, PART 1 ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by David Widger (Illustrated HTML version)
+
+
+
+
+
+                    A TRAMP ABROAD
+
+                     By Mark Twain
+                  (Samuel L. Clemens)
+
+                First published in 1880
+
+
+                      Part 1.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+[The Knighted Knave of Bergen]
+
+One day it occurred to me that it had been many years
+since the world had been afforded the spectacle of a man
+adventurous enough to undertake a journey through Europe
+on foot.  After much thought, I decided that I was
+a person fitted to furnish to mankind this spectacle.
+So I determined to do it.  This was in March, 1878.
+
+I looked about me for the right sort of person to
+accompany me in the capacity of agent, and finally
+hired a Mr. Harris for this service.
+
+It was also my purpose to study art while in Europe.
+Mr. Harris was in sympathy with me in this.  He was as much
+of an enthusiast in art as I was, and not less anxious
+to learn to paint.  I desired to learn the German language;
+so did Harris.
+
+Toward the middle of April we sailed in the HOLSATIA,
+Captain Brandt, and had a very peasant trip, indeed.
+
+After a brief rest at Hamburg, we made preparations for
+a long pedestrian trip southward in the soft spring weather,
+but at the last moment we changed the program,
+for private reasons, and took the express-train.
+
+We made a short halt at Frankfort-on-the-Main, and found
+it an interesting city.  I would have liked to visit
+the birthplace of Gutenburg, but it could not be done,
+as no memorandum of the site of the house has been kept.
+So we spent an hour in the Goethe mansion instead.
+The city permits this house to belong to private parties,
+instead of gracing and dignifying herself with the honor
+of possessing and protecting it.
+
+Frankfort is one of the sixteen cities which have
+the distinction of being the place where the following
+incident occurred.  Charlemagne, while chasing the Saxons
+(as HE said), or being chased by them (as THEY said),
+arrived at the bank of the river at dawn, in a fog.
+The enemy were either before him or behind him;
+but in any case he wanted to get across, very badly.
+He would have given anything for a guide, but none was to
+be had.  Presently he saw a deer, followed by her young,
+approach the water.  He watched her, judging that she
+would seek a ford, and he was right.  She waded over,
+and the army followed.  So a great Frankish victory or
+defeat was gained or avoided; and in order to commemorate
+the episode, Charlemagne commanded a city to be built there,
+which he named Frankfort--the ford of the Franks.
+None of the other cities where this event happened were
+named for it.  This is good evidence that Frankfort was
+the first place it occurred at.
+
+Frankfort has another distinction--it is the birthplace
+of the German alphabet; or at least of the German word
+for alphabet --BUCHSTABEN. They say that the first movable
+types were made on birch sticks--BUCHSTABE--hence the name.
+
+I was taught a lesson in political economy in Frankfort.
+I had brought from home a box containing a thousand
+very cheap cigars.  By way of experiment, I stepped
+into a little shop in a queer old back street, took four
+gaily decorated boxes of wax matches and three cigars,
+and laid down a silver piece worth 48 cents.  The man gave
+me 43 cents change.
+
+In Frankfort everybody wears clean clothes, and I think we
+noticed that this strange thing was the case in Hamburg, too,
+and in the villages along the road.  Even in the narrowest
+and poorest and most ancient quarters of Frankfort neat
+and clean clothes were the rule.  The little children
+of both sexes were nearly always nice enough to take into
+a body's lap.  And as for the uniforms of the soldiers,
+they were newness and brightness carried to perfection.
+One could never detect a smirch or a grain of dust
+upon them.  The street-car conductors and drivers wore
+pretty uniforms which seemed to be just out of the bandbox,
+and their manners were as fine as their clothes.
+
+In one of the shops I had the luck to stumble upon a book
+which has charmed me nearly to death.  It is entitled
+THE LEGENDS OF THE RHINE FROM BASLE TO ROTTERDAM,
+by F. J. Kiefer; translated by L. W. Garnham, B.A.
+
+All tourists MENTION the Rhine legends--in that sort of way
+which quietly pretends that the mentioner has been familiar
+with them all his life, and that the reader cannot possibly
+be ignorant of them--but no tourist ever TELLS them.
+So this little book fed me in a very hungry place; and I,
+in my turn, intend to feed my reader, with one or two
+little lunches from the same larder.  I shall not mar
+Garnharn's translation by meddling with its English;
+for the most toothsome thing about it is its quaint
+fashion of building English sentences on the German plan
+--and punctuating them accordingly to no plan at all.
+
+In the chapter devoted to "Legends of Frankfort,"
+I find the following:
+
+"THE KNAVE OF BERGEN"
+
+"In Frankfort at the Romer was a great mask-ball, at
+the coronation festival, and in the illuminated saloon,
+the clanging music invited to dance, and splendidly
+appeared the rich toilets and charms of the ladies,
+and the festively costumed Princes and Knights.
+All seemed pleasure, joy, and roguish gaiety, only one of the
+numerous guests had a gloomy exterior; but exactly the black
+armor in which he walked about excited general attention,
+and his tall figure, as well as the noble propriety of
+his movements, attracted especially the regards of the ladies.
+Who the Knight was? Nobody could guess, for his Vizier
+was well closed, and nothing made him recognizable.
+Proud and yet modest he advanced to the Empress; bowed on
+one knee before her seat, and begged for the favor of a
+waltz with the Queen of the festival.  And she allowed
+his request.  With light and graceful steps he danced
+through the long saloon, with the sovereign who thought
+never to have found a more dexterous and excellent dancer.
+But also by the grace of his manner, and fine conversation
+he knew to win the Queen, and she graciously accorded him
+a second dance for which he begged, a third, and a fourth,
+as well as others were not refused him.  How all regarded
+the happy dancer, how many envied him the high favor;
+how increased curiosity, who the masked knight could be.
+
+"Also the Emperor became more and more excited with curiosity,
+and with great suspense one awaited the hour, when according
+to mask-law, each masked guest must make himself known.
+This moment came, but although all other unmasked;
+the secret knight still refused to allow his features
+to be seen, till at last the Queen driven by curiosity,
+and vexed at the obstinate refusal; commanded him to open
+his Vizier.  He opened it, and none of the high ladies
+and knights knew him.  But from the crowded spectators,
+2 officials advanced, who recognized the black dancer,
+and horror and terror spread in the saloon, as they said who
+the supposed knight was.  It was the executioner of Bergen.
+But glowing with rage, the King commanded to seize the
+criminal and lead him to death, who had ventured to dance,
+with the queen; so disgraced the Empress, and insulted
+the crown.  The culpable threw himself at the Emperor,
+and said--
+
+"'Indeed I have heavily sinned against all noble guests
+assembled here, but most heavily against you my sovereign
+and my queen.  The Queen is insulted by my haughtiness
+equal to treason, but no punishment even blood, will not
+be able to wash out the disgrace, which you have suffered
+by me.  Therefore oh King! allow me to propose a remedy,
+to efface the shame, and to render it as if not done.
+Draw your sword and knight me, then I will throw down
+my gauntlet, to everyone who dares to speak disrespectfully
+of my king.'
+
+"The Emperor was surprised at this bold proposal,
+however it appeared the wisest to him; 'You are a knave
+he replied after a moment's consideration, however your
+advice is good, and displays prudence, as your offense
+shows adventurous courage.  Well then, and gave him the
+knight-stroke so I raise you to nobility, who begged for
+grace for your offense now kneels before me, rise as knight;
+knavish you have acted, and Knave of Bergen shall you
+be called henceforth, and gladly the Black knight rose;
+three cheers were given in honor of the Emperor,
+and loud cries of joy testified the approbation with
+which the Queen danced still once with the Knave of Bergen."
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+Heidelberg
+[Landing a Monarch at Heidelberg]
+
+We stopped at a hotel by the railway-station. Next morning,
+as we sat in my room waiting for breakfast to come up,
+we got a good deal interested in something which was
+going on over the way, in front of another hotel.
+First, the personage who is called the PORTIER (who is
+not the PORTER, but is a sort of first-mate of a hotel)
+[1. See Appendix A] appeared at the door in a spick-and-span
+new blue cloth uniform, decorated with shining brass buttons,
+and with bands of gold lace around his cap and wristbands;
+and he wore white gloves, too.  He shed an official glance
+upon the situation, and then began to give orders.
+Two women-servants came out with pails and brooms
+and brushes, and gave the sidewalk a thorough scrubbing;
+meanwhile two others scrubbed the four marble steps
+which led up to the door; beyond these we could see some
+men-servants taking up the carpet of the grand staircase.
+This carpet was carried away and the last grain of dust
+beaten and banged and swept out of it; then brought back
+and put down again.  The brass stair-rods received an
+exhaustive polishing and were returned to their places.
+Now a troop of servants brought pots and tubs
+of blooming plants and formed them into a beautiful
+jungle about the door and the base of the staircase.
+Other servants adorned all the balconies of the various
+stories with flowers and banners; others ascended
+to the roof and hoisted a great flag on a staff there.
+Now came some more chamber-maids and retouched the sidewalk,
+and afterward wiped the marble steps with damp cloths
+and finished by dusting them off with feather brushes.
+Now a broad black carpet was brought out and laid down the
+marble steps and out across the sidewalk to the curbstone.
+The PORTIER cast his eye along it, and found it was not
+absolutely straight; he commanded it to be straightened;
+the servants made the effort--made several efforts,
+in fact--but the PORTIER was not satisfied.  He finally
+had it taken up, and then he put it down himself and got
+it right.
+
+At this stage of the proceedings, a narrow bright
+red carpet was unrolled and stretched from the top
+of the marble steps to the curbstone, along the center
+of the black carpet.  This red path cost the PORTIER
+more trouble than even the black one had done.  But he
+patiently fixed and refixed it until it was exactly right
+and lay precisely in the middle of the black carpet.
+In New York these performances would have gathered a mighty
+crowd of curious and intensely interested spectators;
+but here it only captured an audience of half a dozen
+little boys who stood in a row across the pavement,
+some with their school-knapsacks on their backs and their
+hands in their pockets, others with arms full of bundles,
+and all absorbed in the show.  Occasionally one of them
+skipped irreverently over the carpet and took up a position
+on the other side.  This always visibly annoyed the PORTIER.
+
+Now came a waiting interval.  The landlord, in plain clothes,
+and bareheaded, placed himself on the bottom marble step,
+abreast the PORTIER, who stood on the other end of the
+same steps; six or eight waiters, gloved, bareheaded,
+and wearing their whitest linen, their whitest cravats,
+and their finest swallow-tails, grouped themselves
+about these chiefs, but leaving the carpetway clear.
+Nobody moved or spoke any more but only waited.
+
+In a short time the shrill piping of a coming train was heard,
+and immediately groups of people began to gather in the street.
+Two or three open carriages arrived, and deposited some
+maids of honor and some male officials at the hotel.
+Presently another open carriage brought the Grand Duke
+of Baden, a stately man in uniform, who wore the handsome
+brass-mounted, steel-spiked helmet of the army on his head.
+Last came the Empress of Germany and the Grand Duchess
+of Baden in a closed carriage; these passed through the
+low-bowing groups of servants and disappeared in the hotel,
+exhibiting to us only the backs of their heads, and then
+the show was over.
+
+It appears to be as difficult to land a monarch as it
+is to launch a ship.
+
+But as to Heidelberg.  The weather was growing pretty warm,
+--very warm, in fact.  So we left the valley and took
+quarters at the Schloss Hotel, on the hill, above the Castle.
+
+Heidelberg lies at the mouth of a narrow gorge--a gorge
+the shape of a shepherd's crook; if one looks up it he
+perceives that it is about straight, for a mile and a half,
+then makes a sharp curve to the right and disappears.
+This gorge--along whose bottom pours the swift Neckar
+--is confined between (or cloven through) a couple of long,
+steep ridges, a thousand feet high and densely wooded
+clear to their summits, with the exception of one section
+which has been shaved and put under cultivation.
+These ridges are chopped off at the mouth of the gorge
+and form two bold and conspicuous headlands, with Heidelberg
+nestling between them; from their bases spreads away
+the vast dim expanse of the Rhine valley, and into this
+expanse the Neckar goes wandering in shining curves and is
+presently lost to view.
+
+Now if one turns and looks up the gorge once more, he will
+see the Schloss Hotel on the right perched on a precipice
+overlooking the Neckar--a precipice which is so sumptuously
+cushioned and draped with foliage that no glimpse of the
+rock appears.  The building seems very airily situated.
+It has the appearance of being on a shelf half-way up
+the wooded mountainside; and as it is remote and isolated,
+and very white, it makes a strong mark against the lofty
+leafy rampart at its back.
+
+This hotel had a feature which was a decided novelty,
+and one which might be adopted with advantage by any house
+which is perched in a commanding situation.  This feature
+may be described as a series of glass-enclosed parlors
+CLINGING TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE HOUSE, one against each
+and every bed-chamber and drawing-room. They are like long,
+narrow, high-ceiled bird-cages hung against the building.
+My room was a corner room, and had two of these things,
+a north one and a west one.
+
+From the north cage one looks up the Neckar gorge;
+from the west one he looks down it.  This last affords
+the most extensive view, and it is one of the loveliest
+that can be imagined, too.  Out of a billowy upheaval of
+vivid green foliage, a rifle-shot removed, rises the huge
+ruin of Heidelberg Castle, [2. See Appendix B] with empty window
+arches,
+ivy-mailed battlements, moldering towers--the Lear of
+inanimate nature--deserted, discrowned, beaten by the storms,
+but royal still, and beautiful.  It is a fine sight to see
+the evening sunlight suddenly strike the leafy declivity
+at the Castle's base and dash up it and drench it as with
+a luminous spray, while the adjacent groves are in deep shadow.
+
+Behind the Castle swells a great dome-shaped hill,
+forest-clad, and beyond that a nobler and loftier one.
+The Castle looks down upon the compact brown-roofed town;
+and from the town two picturesque old bridges span
+the river.  Now the view broadens; through the gateway
+of the sentinel headlands you gaze out over the wide
+Rhine plain, which stretches away, softly and richly tinted,
+grows gradually and dreamily indistinct, and finally melts
+imperceptibly into the remote horizon.
+
+I have never enjoyed a view which had such a serene
+and satisfying charm about it as this one gives.
+
+The first night we were there, we went to bed and to
+sleep early; but I awoke at the end of two or three hours,
+and lay a comfortable while listening to the soothing
+patter of the rain against the balcony windows.
+I took it to be rain, but it turned out to be only the
+murmur of the restless Neckar, tumbling over her dikes
+and dams far below, in the gorge.  I got up and went
+into the west balcony and saw a wonderful sight.
+Away down on the level under the black mass of the Castle,
+the town lay, stretched along the river, its intricate
+cobweb of streets jeweled with twinkling lights;
+there were rows of lights on the bridges; these flung
+lances of light upon the water, in the black shadows
+of the arches; and away at the extremity of all this
+fairy spectacle blinked and glowed a massed multitude
+of gas-jets which seemed to cover acres of ground;
+it was as if all the diamonds in the world had been spread
+out there.  I did not know before, that a half-mile
+of sextuple railway-tracks could be made such an adornment.
+
+One thinks Heidelberg by day--with its surroundings
+--is the last possibility of the beautiful; but when he
+sees Heidelberg by night, a fallen Milky Way, with that
+glittering railway constellation pinned to the border,
+he requires time to consider upon the verdict.
+
+One never tires of poking about in the dense woods that
+clothe all these lofty Neckar hills to their beguiling
+and impressive charm in any country; but German legends
+and fairy tales have given these an added charm.
+They have peopled all that region with gnomes, and dwarfs,
+and all sorts of mysterious and uncanny creatures.
+At the time I am writing of, I had been reading so much
+of this literature that sometimes I was not sure but I
+was beginning to believe in the gnomes and fairies
+as realities.
+
+One afternoon I got lost in the woods about a mile from
+the hotel, and presently fell into a train of dreamy thought
+about animals which talk, and kobolds, and enchanted folk,
+and the rest of the pleasant legendary stuff; and so,
+by stimulating my fancy, I finally got to imagining I
+glimpsed small flitting shapes here and there down the
+columned aisles of the forest.  It was a place which was
+peculiarly meet for the occasion.  It was a pine wood,
+with so thick and soft a carpet of brown needles that one's
+footfall made no more sound than if he were treading
+on wool; the tree-trunks were as round and straight
+and smooth as pillars, and stood close together;
+they were bare of branches to a point about twenty-five
+feet above-ground, and from there upward so thick with
+boughs that not a ray of sunlight could pierce through.
+The world was bright with sunshine outside, but a deep
+and mellow twilight reigned in there, and also a deep
+silence so profound that I seemed to hear my own breathings.
+
+When I had stood ten minutes, thinking and imagining,
+and getting my spirit in tune with the place, and in the
+right mood to enjoy the supernatural, a raven suddenly
+uttered a horse croak over my head.  It made me start;
+and then I was angry because I started.  I looked up,
+and the creature was sitting on a limb right over me,
+looking down at me.  I felt something of the same sense
+of humiliation and injury which one feels when he finds
+that a human stranger has been clandestinely inspecting
+him in his privacy and mentally commenting upon him.
+I eyed the raven, and the raven eyed me.  Nothing was said
+during some seconds.  Then the bird stepped a little way
+along his limb to get a better point of observation,
+lifted his wings, stuck his head far down below his
+shoulders toward me and croaked again--a croak with a
+distinctly insulting expression about it.  If he had
+spoken in English he could not have said any more plainly
+that he did say in raven, "Well, what do YOU want here?"
+I felt as foolish as if I had been caught in some mean act
+by a responsible being, and reproved for it.  However, I
+made no reply; I would not bandy words with a raven.
+The adversary waited a while, with his shoulders still lifted,
+his head thrust down between them, and his keen bright eye
+fixed on me; then he threw out two or three more insults,
+which I could not understand, further than that I
+knew a portion of them consisted of language not used
+in church.
+
+I still made no reply.  Now the adversary raised his head
+and called.  There was an answering croak from a little
+distance in the wood--evidently a croak of inquiry.
+The adversary explained with enthusiasm, and the other raven
+dropped everything and came.  The two sat side by side
+on the limb and discussed me as freely and offensively
+as two great naturalists might discuss a new kind of bug.
+The thing became more and more embarrassing.  They called
+in another friend.  This was too much.  I saw that they
+had the advantage of me, and so I concluded to get out
+of the scrape by walking out of it.  They enjoyed my
+defeat as much as any low white people could have done.
+They craned their necks and laughed at me (for a raven
+CAN laugh, just like a man), they squalled insulting remarks
+after me as long as they could see me.  They were nothing
+but ravens--I knew that--what they thought of me could
+be a matter of no consequence--and yet when even a raven
+shouts after you, "What a hat!" "Oh, pull down your vest!"
+and that sort of thing, it hurts you and humiliates you,
+and there is no getting around it with fine reasoning and
+pretty arguments.
+
+Animals talk to each other, of course.  There can be no
+question about that; but I suppose there are very few
+people who can understand them.  I never knew but one man
+who could.  I knew he could, however, because he told
+me so himself.  He was a middle-aged, simple-hearted
+miner who had lived in a lonely corner of California,
+among the woods and mountains, a good many years,
+and had studied the ways of his only neighbors, the beasts
+and the birds, until he believed he could accurately
+translate any remark which they made.  This was Jim Baker.
+According to Jim Baker, some animals have only a
+limited education, and some use only simple words,
+and scarcely ever a comparison or a flowery figure;
+whereas, certain other animals have a large vocabulary,
+a fine command of language and a ready and fluent delivery;
+consequently these latter talk a great deal; they like it;
+they are so conscious of their talent, and they enjoy
+"showing off." Baker said, that after long and careful
+observation, he had come to the conclusion that the bluejays
+were the best talkers he had found among birds and beasts.  Said
+he:
+
+"There's more TO a bluejay than any other creature.
+He has got more moods, and more different kinds
+of feelings than other creatures; and, mind you,
+whatever a bluejay feels, he can put into language.
+And no mere commonplace language, either, but rattling,
+out-and-out book-talk--and bristling with metaphor,
+too--just bristling! And as for command of language--why
+YOU never see a bluejay get stuck for a word.  No man
+ever did.  They just boil out of him! And another thing:
+I've noticed a good deal, and there's no bird, or cow,
+or anything that uses as good grammar as a bluejay.
+You may say a cat uses good grammar.  Well, a cat
+does--but you let a cat get excited once; you let a cat
+get to pulling fur with another cat on a shed, nights,
+and you'll hear grammar that will give you the lockjaw.
+Ignorant people think it's the NOISE which fighting
+cats make that is so aggravating, but it ain't so;
+it's the sickening grammar they use.  Now I've never heard
+a jay use bad grammar but very seldom; and when they do,
+they are as ashamed as a human; they shut right down
+and leave.
+
+"You may call a jay a bird.  Well, so he is, in a measure
+--but he's got feathers on him, and don't belong to no church,
+perhaps; but otherwise he is just as much human as you be.
+And I'll tell you for why.  A jay's gifts, and instincts,
+and feelings, and interests, cover the whole ground.
+A jay hasn't got any more principle than a Congressman.
+A jay will lie, a jay will steal, a jay will deceive,
+a jay will betray; and four times out of five, a jay
+will go back on his solemnest promise.  The sacredness
+of an obligation is such a thing which you can't cram
+into no bluejay's head.  Now, on top of all this,
+there's another thing; a jay can out-swear any gentleman
+in the mines.  You think a cat can swear.  Well, a cat can;
+but you give a bluejay a subject that calls for his
+reserve-powers, and where is your cat? Don't talk to ME--I
+know too much about this thing; in the one little particular
+of scolding--just good, clean, out-and-out scolding
+--a bluejay can lay over anything, human or divine.
+Yes, sir, a jay is everything that a man is.  A jay can cry,
+a jay can laugh, a jay can feel shame, a jay can reason
+and plan and discuss, a jay likes gossip and scandal,
+a jay has got a sense of humor, a jay knows when he is
+an ass just as well as you do--maybe better.  If a jay
+ain't human, he better take in his sign, that's all.
+Now I'm going to tell you a perfectly true fact about
+some bluejays."
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+Baker's Bluejay Yarn
+[What Stumped the Blue Jays]
+
+"When I first begun to understand jay language correctly,
+there was a little incident happened here.  Seven years ago,
+the last man in this region but me moved away.  There stands
+his house--been empty ever since; a log house, with a plank
+roof--just one big room, and no more; no ceiling--nothing
+between the rafters and the floor.  Well, one Sunday
+morning I was sitting out here in front of my cabin,
+with my cat, taking the sun, and looking at the blue hills,
+and listening to the leaves rustling so lonely in the trees,
+and thinking of the home away yonder in the states,
+that I hadn't heard from in thirteen years, when a bluejay
+lit on that house, with an acorn in his mouth, and says,
+'Hello, I reckon I've struck something.' When he spoke,
+the acorn dropped out of his mouth and rolled down the roof,
+of course, but he didn't care; his mind was all on the
+thing he had struck.  It was a knot-hole in the roof.
+He cocked his head to one side, shut one eye and put the
+other one to the hole, like a possum looking down a jug;
+then he glanced up with his bright eyes, gave a wink
+or two with his wings--which signifies gratification,
+you understand--and says, 'It looks like a hole,
+it's located like a hole--blamed if I don't believe it IS
+a hole!'
+
+"Then he cocked his head down and took another look;
+he glances up perfectly joyful, this time; winks his wings
+and his tail both, and says, 'Oh, no, this ain't no fat thing,
+I reckon! If I ain't in luck! --Why it's a perfectly
+elegant hole!' So he flew down and got that acorn,
+and fetched it up and dropped it in, and was just tilting
+his head back, with the heavenliest smile on his face,
+when all of a sudden he was paralyzed into a listening
+attitude and that smile faded gradually out of his
+countenance like breath off'n a razor, and the queerest
+look of surprise took its place.  Then he says, 'Why, I
+didn't hear it fall!' He cocked his eye at the hole again,
+and took a long look; raised up and shook his head;
+stepped around to the other side of the hole and took
+another look from that side; shook his head again.
+He studied a while, then he just went into the Details
+--walked round and round the hole and spied into it from every
+point of the compass.  No use.  Now he took a thinking
+attitude on the comb of the roof and scratched the back
+of his head with his right foot a minute, and finally says,
+'Well, it's too many for ME, that's certain; must be
+a mighty long hole; however, I ain't got no time to fool
+around here, I got to "tend to business"; I reckon it's
+all right--chance it, anyway.'
+
+"So he flew off and fetched another acorn and dropped
+it in, and tried to flirt his eye to the hole quick
+enough to see what become of it, but he was too late.
+He held his eye there as much as a minute; then he raised
+up and sighed, and says, 'Confound it, I don't seem
+to understand this thing, no way; however, I'll tackle
+her again.' He fetched another acorn, and done his level
+best to see what become of it, but he couldn't. He says,
+'Well, I never struck no such a hole as this before;
+I'm of the opinion it's a totally new kind of a hole.'
+Then he begun to get mad.  He held in for a spell,
+walking up and down the comb of the roof and shaking
+his head and muttering to himself; but his feelings got
+the upper hand of him, presently, and he broke loose
+and cussed himself black in the face.  I never see a bird
+take on so about a little thing.  When he got through he
+walks to the hole and looks in again for half a minute;
+then he says, 'Well, you're a long hole, and a deep hole,
+and a mighty singular hole altogether--but I've started
+in to fill you, and I'm damned if I DON'T fill you, if it
+takes a hundred years!'
+
+"And with that, away he went.  You never see a bird work
+so since you was born.  He laid into his work like a nigger,
+and the way he hove acorns into that hole for about
+two hours and a half was one of the most exciting and
+astonishing spectacles I ever struck.  He never stopped
+to take a look anymore--he just hove 'em in and went
+for more.  Well, at last he could hardly flop his wings,
+he was so tuckered out.  He comes a-dropping down, once more,
+sweating like an ice-pitcher, dropped his acorn in and says,
+'NOW I guess I've got the bulge on you by this time!'
+So he bent down for a look.  If you'll believe me,
+when his head come up again he was just pale with rage.
+He says, 'I've shoveled acorns enough in there to keep
+the family thirty years, and if I can see a sign of one
+of 'em I wish I may land in a museum with a belly full
+of sawdust in two minutes!'
+
+"He just had strength enough to crawl up on to the
+comb and lean his back agin the chimbly, and then he
+collected his impressions and begun to free his mind.
+I see in a second that what I had mistook for profanity
+in the mines was only just the rudiments, as you may say.
+
+"Another jay was going by, and heard him doing his devotions,
+and stops to inquire what was up.  The sufferer told him
+the whole circumstance, and says, 'Now yonder's the hole,
+and if you don't believe me, go and look for yourself.'
+So this fellow went and looked, and comes back and says,
+'How many did you say you put in there?' 'Not any less
+than two tons,' says the sufferer.  The other jay went
+and looked again.  He couldn't seem to make it out, so he
+raised a yell, and three more jays come.  They all examined
+the hole, they all made the sufferer tell it over again,
+then they all discussed it, and got off as many leather-headed
+opinions about it as an average crowd of humans could
+have done.
+
+"They called in more jays; then more and more, till pretty
+soon this whole region 'peared to have a blue flush about it.
+There must have been five thousand of them; and such
+another jawing and disputing and ripping and cussing,
+you never heard.  Every jay in the whole lot put his
+eye to the hole and delivered a more chuckle-headed
+opinion about the mystery than the jay that went there
+before him.  They examined the house all over, too.
+The door was standing half open, and at last one old jay
+happened to go and light on it and look in.  Of course,
+that knocked the mystery galley-west in a second.
+There lay the acorns, scattered all over the floor..
+He flopped his wings and raised a whoop.  'Come here!'
+he says, 'Come here, everybody; hang'd if this fool hasn't
+been trying to fill up a house with acorns!' They all came
+a-swooping down like a blue cloud, and as each fellow
+lit on the door and took a glance, the whole absurdity
+of the contract that that first jay had tackled hit him
+home and he fell over backward suffocating with laughter,
+and the next jay took his place and done the same.
+
+"Well, sir, they roosted around here on the housetop
+and the trees for an hour, and guffawed over that thing
+like human beings.  It ain't any use to tell me a bluejay
+hasn't got a sense of humor, because I know better.
+And memory, too.  They brought jays here from all over
+the United States to look down that hole, every summer
+for three years.  Other birds, too.  And they could all
+see the point except an owl that come from Nova Scotia
+to visit the Yo Semite, and he took this thing in on
+his way back.  He said he couldn't see anything funny
+in it.  But then he was a good deal disappointed about
+Yo Semite, too."
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+Student Life
+[The Laborious Beer King]
+
+The summer semester was in full tide; consequently the
+most frequent figure in and about Heidelberg was
+the student.  Most of the students were Germans,
+of course, but the representatives of foreign lands
+were very numerous.  They hailed from every corner
+of the globe--for instruction is cheap in Heidelberg,
+and so is living, too.  The Anglo-American Club,
+composed of British and American students, had twenty-five
+members, and there was still much material left to draw from.
+
+Nine-tenths of the Heidelberg students wore no badge
+or uniform; the other tenth wore caps of various colors,
+and belonged to social organizations called "corps." There
+were five corps, each with a color of its own; there were
+white caps, blue caps, and red, yellow, and green ones.
+The famous duel-fighting is confined to the "corps" boys.
+The "KNEIP" seems to be a specialty of theirs, too.
+Kneips are held, now and then, to celebrate great occasions,
+like the election of a beer king, for instance.
+The solemnity is simple; the five corps assemble at night,
+and at a signal they all fall loading themselves with beer,
+out of pint-mugs, as fast as possible, and each man keeps
+his own count--usually by laying aside a lucifer match
+for each mud he empties.  The election is soon decided.
+When the candidates can hold no more, a count is instituted
+and the one who has drank the greatest number of pints is
+proclaimed king.  I was told that the last beer king elected
+by the corps--or by his own capabilities--emptied his mug
+seventy-five times.  No stomach could hold all that quantity
+at one time, of course--but there are ways of frequently
+creating a vacuum, which those who have been much at sea
+will understand.
+
+One sees so many students abroad at all hours, that he
+presently begins to wonder if they ever have any
+working-hours. Some of them have, some of them haven't.
+Each can choose for himself whether he will work or play;
+for German university life is a very free life;
+it seems to have no restraints.  The student does not live
+in the college buildings, but hires his own lodgings,
+in any locality he prefers, and he takes his meals when
+and where he pleases.  He goes to bed when it suits him,
+and does not get up at all unless he wants to.
+He is not entered at the university for any particular
+length of time; so he is likely to change about.
+He passes no examinations upon entering college.
+He merely pays a trifling fee of five or ten dollars,
+receives a card entitling him to the privileges of
+the university, and that is the end of it.  He is now ready
+for business--or play, as he shall prefer.  If he elects
+to work, he finds a large list of lectures to choose from.
+He selects the subjects which he will study, and enters
+his name for these studies; but he can skip attendance.
+
+The result of this system is, that lecture-courses upon
+specialties of an unusual nature are often delivered
+to very slim audiences, while those upon more practical
+and every-day matters of education are delivered to very
+large ones.  I heard of one case where, day after day,
+the lecturer's audience consisted of three students--and always
+the same three.  But one day two of them remained away.
+The lecturer began as usual--
+
+"Gentlemen," --then, without a smile, he corrected himself,
+saying--
+
+"Sir," --and went on with his discourse.
+
+It is said that the vast majority of the Heidelberg students
+are hard workers, and make the most of their opportunities;
+that they have no surplus means to spend in dissipation,
+and no time to spare for frolicking.  One lecture follows
+right on the heels of another, with very little time
+for the student to get out of one hall and into the next;
+but the industrious ones manage it by going on a trot.
+The professors assist them in the saving of their time
+by being promptly in their little boxed-up pulpits when the
+hours strike, and as promptly out again when the hour finishes.
+I entered an empty lecture-room one day just before the
+clock struck.  The place had simple, unpainted pine desks
+and benches for about two hundred persons.
+
+About a minute before the clock struck, a hundred
+and fifty students swarmed in, rushed to their seats,
+immediately spread open their notebooks and dipped their
+pens in ink.  When the clock began to strike, a burly
+professor entered, was received with a round of applause,
+moved swiftly down the center aisle, said "Gentlemen,"
+and began to talk as he climbed his pulpit steps; and by
+the time he had arrived in his box and faced his audience,
+his lecture was well under way and all the pens were going.
+He had no notes, he talked with prodigious rapidity and
+energy for an hour--then the students began to remind
+him in certain well-understood ways that his time was up;
+he seized his hat, still talking, proceeded swiftly down
+his pulpit steps, got out the last word of his discourse
+as he struck the floor; everybody rose respectfully,
+and he swept rapidly down the aisle and disappeared.
+An instant rush for some other lecture-room followed,
+and in a minute I was alone with the empty benches
+once more.
+
+Yes, without doubt, idle students are not the rule.
+Out of eight hundred in the town, I knew the faces of only
+about fifty; but these I saw everywhere, and daily.
+They walked about the streets and the wooded hills,
+they drove in cabs, they boated on the river, they sipped
+beer and coffee, afternoons, in the Schloss gardens.
+A good many of them wore colored caps of the corps.
+They were finely and fashionably dressed, their manners
+were quite superb, and they led an easy, careless,
+comfortable life.  If a dozen of them sat together and a lady
+or a gentleman passed whom one of them knew and saluted,
+they all rose to their feet and took off their caps.
+The members of a corps always received a fellow-member
+in this way, too; but they paid no attention to members
+of other corps; they did not seem to see them.  This was not
+a discourtesy; it was only a part of the elaborate and rigid
+corps etiquette.
+
+There seems to be no chilly distance existing between the
+German students and the professor; but, on the contrary,
+a companionable intercourse, the opposite of chilliness
+and reserve.  When the professor enters a beer-hall
+in the evening where students are gathered together,
+these rise up and take off their caps, and invite the old
+gentleman to sit with them and partake.  He accepts,
+and the pleasant talk and the beer flow for an hour or two,
+and by and by the professor, properly charged and comfortable,
+gives a cordial good night, while the students stand
+bowing and uncovered; and then he moves on his happy
+way homeward with all his vast cargo of learning afloat
+in his hold.  Nobody finds fault or feels outraged;
+no harm has been done.
+
+It seemed to be a part of corps etiquette to keep a dog
+or so, too.  I mean a corps dog--the common property of
+the organization, like the corps steward or head servant;
+then there are other dogs, owned by individuals.
+
+On a summer afternoon in the Castle gardens, I have
+seen six students march solemnly into the grounds,
+in single file, each carrying a bright Chinese parasol
+and leading a prodigious dog by a string.  It was a very
+imposing spectacle.  Sometimes there would be as many
+dogs around the pavilion as students; and of all breeds
+and of all degrees of beauty and ugliness.  These dogs
+had a rather dry time of it; for they were tied to the
+benches and had no amusement for an hour or two at a time
+except what they could get out of pawing at the gnats,
+or trying to sleep and not succeeding.  However, they got
+a lump of sugar occasionally--they were fond of that.
+
+It seemed right and proper that students should indulge in dogs;
+but everybody else had them, too--old men and young ones,
+old women and nice young ladies.  If there is one spectacle
+that is unpleasanter than another, it is that of an
+elegantly dressed young lady towing a dog by a string.
+It is said to be the sign and symbol of blighted love.
+It seems to me that some other way of advertising it might
+be devised, which would be just as conspicuous and yet
+not so trying to the proprieties.
+
+It would be a mistake to suppose that the easy-going
+pleasure-seeking student carries an empty head.
+Just the contrary.  He has spent nine years in the gymnasium,
+under a system which allowed him no freedom, but vigorously
+compelled him to work like a slave.  Consequently, he has
+left the gymnasium with an education which is so extensive
+and complete, that the most a university can do for it
+is to perfect some of its profounder specialties.
+It is said that when a pupil leaves the gymnasium, he not
+only has a comprehensive education, but he KNOWS what he
+knows--it is not befogged with uncertainty, it is burnt
+into him so that it will stay.  For instance, he does not
+merely read and write Greek, but speaks it; the same with
+the Latin.  Foreign youth steer clear of the gymnasium;
+its rules are too severe.  They go to the university
+to put a mansard roof on their whole general education;
+but the German student already has his mansard roof, so he
+goes there to add a steeple in the nature of some specialty,
+such as a particular branch of law, or diseases of the eye,
+or special study of the ancient Gothic tongues.
+So this German attends only the lectures which belong
+to the chosen branch, and drinks his beer and tows his dog
+around and has a general good time the rest of the day.
+He has been in rigid bondage so long that the large liberty
+of the university life is just what he needs and likes
+and thoroughly appreciates; and as it cannot last forever,
+he makes the most of it while it does last, and so lays
+up a good rest against the day that must see him put on
+the chains once more and enter the slavery of official
+or professional life.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+At the Students' Dueling-Ground
+[Dueling by Wholesale]
+
+One day in the interest of science my agent obtained
+permission to bring me to the students' dueling-place. We
+crossed the river and drove up the bank a few hundred yards,
+then turned to the left, entered a narrow alley, followed it
+a hundred yards and arrived at a two-story public house;
+we were acquainted with its outside aspect, for it was
+visible from the hotel.  We went upstairs and passed into
+a large whitewashed apartment which was perhaps fifty feet
+long by thirty feet wide and twenty or twenty-five high.
+It was a well-lighted place.  There was no carpet.
+Across one end and down both sides of the room extended a row
+of tables, and at these tables some fifty or seventy-five
+students [1. See Appendix C] were sitting.
+
+Some of them were sipping wine, others were playing cards,
+others chess, other groups were chatting together,
+and many were smoking cigarettes while they waited for
+the coming duels.  Nearly all of them wore colored caps;
+there were white caps, green caps, blue caps, red caps,
+and bright-yellow ones; so, all the five corps were
+present in strong force.  In the windows at the vacant
+end of the room stood six or eight, narrow-bladed swords
+with large protecting guards for the hand, and outside
+was a man at work sharpening others on a grindstone.
+He understood his business; for when a sword left his hand
+one could shave himself with it.
+
+It was observable that the young gentlemen neither bowed
+to nor spoke with students whose caps differed in color
+from their own.  This did not mean hostility, but only an
+armed neutrality.  It was considered that a person could
+strike harder in the duel, and with a more earnest interest,
+if he had never been in a condition of comradeship with
+his antagonist; therefore, comradeship between the corps
+was not permitted.  At intervals the presidents of the five
+corps have a cold official intercourse with each other,
+but nothing further.  For example, when the regular
+dueling-day of one of the corps approaches, its president
+calls for volunteers from among the membership to
+offer battle; three or more respond--but there must not
+be less than three; the president lays their names before
+the other presidents, with the request that they furnish
+antagonists for these challengers from among their corps.
+This is promptly done.  It chanced that the present
+occasion was the battle-day of the Red Cap Corps.
+They were the challengers, and certain caps of other colors
+had volunteered to meet them.  The students fight duels
+in the room which I have described, TWO DAYS IN EVERY WEEK
+DURING SEVEN AND A HALF OR EIGHT MONTHS IN EVERY YEAR.
+This custom had continued in Germany two hundred and fifty years.
+
+
+To return to my narrative.  A student in a white cap
+met us and introduced us to six or eight friends of his
+who also wore white caps, and while we stood conversing,
+two strange-looking figures were led in from another room.
+They were students panoplied for the duel.  They were bareheaded;
+their eyes were protected by iron goggles which projected
+an inch or more, the leather straps of which bound
+their ears flat against their heads were wound around
+and around with thick wrappings which a sword could not
+cut through; from chin to ankle they were padded thoroughly
+against injury; their arms were bandaged and rebandaged,
+layer upon layer, until they looked like solid black logs.
+These weird apparitions had been handsome youths,
+clad in fashionable attire, fifteen minutes before,
+but now they did not resemble any beings one ever sees
+unless in nightmares.  They strode along, with their arms
+projecting straight out from their bodies; they did
+not hold them out themselves, but fellow-students walked
+beside them and gave the needed support.
+
+There was a rush for the vacant end of the room, now,
+and we followed and got good places.  The combatants were
+placed face to face, each with several members of his own
+corps about him to assist; two seconds, well padded,
+and with swords in their hands, took their stations;
+a student belonging to neither of the opposing corps
+placed himself in a good position to umpire the combat;
+another student stood by with a watch and a memorandum-book
+to keep record of the time and the number and nature of
+the wounds; a gray-haired surgeon was present with his lint,
+his bandages, and his instruments.  After a moment's pause
+the duelists saluted the umpire respectfully, then one
+after another the several officials stepped forward,
+gracefully removed their caps and saluted him also,
+and returned to their places.  Everything was ready now;
+students stood crowded together in the foreground,
+and others stood behind them on chairs and tables.
+Every face was turned toward the center of attraction.
+
+The combatants were watching each other with alert eyes;
+a perfect stillness, a breathless interest reigned.
+I felt that I was going to see some wary work.  But not so.
+The instant the word was given, the two apparitions
+sprang forward and began to rain blows down upon each
+other with such lightning rapidity that I could not quite
+tell whether I saw the swords or only flashes they made
+in the air; the rattling din of these blows as they struck
+steel or paddings was something wonderfully stirring,
+and they were struck with such terrific force that I could
+not understand why the opposing sword was not beaten
+down under the assault.  Presently, in the midst of the
+sword-flashes, I saw a handful of hair skip into the air
+as if it had lain loose on the victim's head and a breath
+of wind had puffed it suddenly away.
+
+The seconds cried "Halt!" and knocked up the combatants'
+swords with their own.  The duelists sat down; a student
+official stepped forward, examined the wounded head
+and touched the place with a sponge once or twice;
+the surgeon came and turned back the hair from the wound
+--and revealed a crimson gash two or three inches long,
+and proceeded to bind an oval piece of leather and a bunch
+of lint over it; the tally-keeper stepped up and tallied
+one for the opposition in his book.
+
+Then the duelists took position again; a small stream of
+blood was flowing down the side of the injured man's head,
+and over his shoulder and down his body to the floor,
+but he did not seem to mind this.  The word was given,
+and they plunged at each other as fiercely as before;
+once more the blows rained and rattled and flashed;
+every few moments the quick-eyed seconds would notice
+that a sword was bent--then they called "Halt!" struck up
+the contending weapons, and an assisting student straightened
+the bent one.
+
+The wonderful turmoil went on--presently a bright spark
+sprung from a blade, and that blade broken in several pieces,
+sent one of its fragments flying to the ceiling.
+A new sword was provided and the fight proceeded.
+The exercise was tremendous, of course, and in time
+the fighters began to show great fatigue.  They were
+allowed to rest a moment, every little while; they got
+other rests by wounding each other, for then they could
+sit down while the doctor applied the lint and bandages.
+The laws is that the battle must continue fifteen minutes
+if the men can hold out; and as the pauses do not count,
+this duel was protracted to twenty or thirty minutes,
+I judged.  At last it was decided that the men were too much
+wearied to do battle longer.  They were led away drenched
+with crimson from head to foot.  That was a good fight,
+but it could not count, partly because it did not last
+the lawful fifteen minutes (of actual fighting), and
+partly because neither man was disabled by his wound.
+It was a drawn battle, and corps law requires that drawn
+battles shall be refought as soon as the adversaries are
+well of their hurts.
+
+During the conflict, I had talked a little, now and then,
+with a young gentleman of the White Cap Corps, and he
+had mentioned that he was to fight next--and had also
+pointed out his challenger, a young gentleman who was
+leaning against the opposite wall smoking a cigarette
+and restfully observing the duel then in progress.
+
+My acquaintanceship with a party to the coming contest
+had the effect of giving me a kind of personal interest
+in it; I naturally wished he might win, and it was
+the reverse of pleasant to learn that he probably
+would not, because, although he was a notable swordsman,
+the challenger was held to be his superior.
+
+The duel presently began and in the same furious way
+which had marked the previous one.  I stood close by,
+but could not tell which blows told and which did not,
+they fell and vanished so like flashes of light.  They all
+seemed to tell; the swords always bent over the opponents'
+heads, from the forehead back over the crown, and seemed
+to touch, all the way; but it was not so--a protecting
+blade, invisible to me, was always interposed between.
+At the end of ten seconds each man had struck twelve
+or fifteen blows, and warded off twelve or fifteen,
+and no harm done; then a sword became disabled, and a short
+rest followed whilst a new one was brought.  Early in the
+next round the White Corps student got an ugly wound on
+the side of his head and gave his opponent one like it.
+In the third round the latter received another bad wound
+in the head, and the former had his under-lip divided.
+After that, the White Corps student gave many severe wounds,
+but got none of the consequence in return.  At the end
+of five minutes from the beginning of the duel the surgeon
+stopped it; the challenging party had suffered such
+injuries that any addition to them might be dangerous.
+These injuries were a fearful spectacle, but are better
+left undescribed.  So, against expectation, my acquaintance
+was the victor.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+[A Sport that Sometimes Kills]
+
+The third duel was brief and bloody.  The surgeon stopped
+it when he saw that one of the men had received such bad
+wounds that he could not fight longer without endangering
+his life.
+
+The fourth duel was a tremendous encounter; but at the end
+of five or six minutes the surgeon interfered once more:
+another man so severely hurt as to render it unsafe to add
+to his harms.  I watched this engagement as I watched
+the others--with rapt interest and strong excitement,
+and with a shrink and a shudder for every blow that laid
+open a cheek or a forehead; and a conscious paling of my
+face when I occasionally saw a wound of a yet more shocking
+nature inflicted.  My eyes were upon the loser of this
+duel when he got his last and vanquishing wound--it
+was in his face and it carried away his--but no matter,
+I must not enter into details.  I had but a glance, and then
+turned quickly, but I would not have been looking at all if I
+had known what was coming.  No, that is probably not true;
+one thinks he would not look if he knew what was coming,
+but the interest and the excitement are so powerful that
+they would doubtless conquer all other feelings; and so,
+under the fierce exhilaration of the clashing steel,
+he would yield and look after all.  Sometimes spectators
+of these duels faint--and it does seem a very reasonable
+thing to do, too.
+
+Both parties to this fourth duel were badly hurt so much
+that the surgeon was at work upon them nearly or quite an
+hour--a fact which is suggestive.  But this waiting interval
+was not wasted in idleness by the assembled students.
+It was past noon, therefore they ordered their landlord,
+downstairs, to send up hot beefsteaks, chickens, and such things,
+and these they ate, sitting comfortable at the several tables,
+whilst they chatted, disputed and laughed.  The door to
+the surgeon's room stood open, meantime, but the cutting,
+sewing, splicing, and bandaging going on in there in
+plain view did not seem to disturb anyone's appetite.
+I went in and saw the surgeon labor awhile, but could
+not enjoy; it was much less trying to see the wounds
+given and received than to see them mended; the stir
+and turmoil, and the music of the steel, were wanting
+here--one's nerves were wrung by this grisly spectacle,
+whilst the duel's compensating pleasurable thrill was lacking.
+
+Finally the doctor finished, and the men who were to fight
+the closing battle of the day came forth.  A good many
+dinners were not completed, yet, but no matter, they could
+be eaten cold, after the battle; therefore everybody
+crowded forth to see.  This was not a love duel, but a
+"satisfaction" affair.  These two students had quarreled,
+and were here to settle it.  They did not belong to any of
+the corps, but they were furnished with weapons and armor,
+and permitted to fight here by the five corps as a courtesy.
+Evidently these two young men were unfamiliar with the
+dueling ceremonies, though they were not unfamiliar with
+the sword.  When they were placed in position they thought
+it was time to begin--and then did begin, too, and with
+a most impetuous energy, without waiting for anybody
+to give the word.  This vastly amused the spectators,
+and even broke down their studied and courtly gravity
+and surprised them into laughter.  Of course the seconds
+struck up the swords and started the duel over again.
+At the word, the deluge of blows began, but before long
+the surgeon once more interfered--for the only reason
+which ever permits him to interfere--and the day's
+war was over.  It was now two in the afternoon, and I
+had been present since half past nine in the morning.
+The field of battle was indeed a red one by this time;
+but some sawdust soon righted that.  There had been one
+duel before I arrived.  In it one of the men received
+many injuries, while the other one escaped without
+a scratch.
+
+I had seen the heads and faces of ten youths gashed
+in every direction by the keen two-edged blades, and yet
+had not seen a victim wince, nor heard a moan, or detected
+any fleeting expression which confessed the sharp pain
+the hurts were inflicting.  This was good fortitude,
+indeed.  Such endurance is to be expected in savages
+and prize-fighters, for they are born and educated to it;
+but to find it in such perfection in these gently bred
+and kindly natured young fellows is matter for surprise.
+It was not merely under the excitement of the sword-play
+that this fortitude was shown; it was shown in the surgeon's
+room where an uninspiring quiet reigned, and where there
+was no audience.  The doctor's manipulations brought
+out neither grimaces nor moans.  And in the fights
+it was observable that these lads hacked and slashed
+with the same tremendous spirit, after they were covered
+with streaming wounds, which they had shown in the beginning.
+
+The world in general looks upon the college duels as very
+farcical affairs: true, but considering that the college
+duel is fought by boys; that the swords are real swords;
+and that the head and face are exposed, it seems to me
+that it is a farce which had quite a grave side to it.
+People laugh at it mainly because they think the student
+is so covered up with armor that he cannot be hurt.
+But it is not so; his eyes are ears are protected,
+but the rest of his face and head are bare.  He can not only
+be badly wounded, but his life is in danger; and he would
+sometimes lose it but for the interference of the surgeon.
+It is not intended that his life shall be endangered.
+Fatal accidents are possible, however.  For instance,
+the student's sword may break, and the end of it fly
+up behind his antagonist's ear and cut an artery which
+could not be reached if the sword remained whole.
+This has happened, sometimes, and death has resulted
+on the spot.  Formerly the student's armpits were not
+protected--and at that time the swords were pointed,
+whereas they are blunt, now; so an artery in the armpit
+was sometimes cut, and death followed.  Then in the days
+of sharp-pointed swords, a spectator was an occasional
+victim--the end of a broken sword flew five or ten
+feet and buried itself in his neck or his heart,
+and death ensued instantly.  The student duels in Germany
+occasion two or three deaths every year, now, but this
+arises only from the carelessness of the wounded men;
+they eat or drink imprudently, or commit excesses in the
+way of overexertion; inflammation sets in and gets such
+a headway that it cannot be arrested.  Indeed, there is
+blood and pain and danger enough about the college duel
+to entitle it to a considerable degree of respect.
+
+All the customs, all the laws, all the details,
+pertaining to the student duel are quaint and naive.
+The grave, precise, and courtly ceremony with which the
+thing is conducted, invests it with a sort of antique charm.
+
+This dignity and these knightly graces suggest the tournament,
+not the prize-fight. The laws are as curious as they
+are strict.  For instance, the duelist may step forward
+from the line he is placed upon, if he chooses, but never
+back of it.  If he steps back of it, or even leans back,
+it is considered that he did it to avoid a blow or contrive
+an advantage; so he is dismissed from his corps in disgrace.
+It would seem natural to step from under a descending
+sword unconsciously, and against one's will and intent--yet
+this unconsciousness is not allowed.  Again: if under the
+sudden anguish of a wound the receiver of it makes a grimace,
+he falls some degrees in the estimation of his fellows;
+his corps are ashamed of him: they call him "hare foot,"
+which is the German equivalent for chicken-hearted.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+[How Bismark Fought]
+
+In addition to the corps laws, there are some corps
+usages which have the force of laws.
+
+Perhaps the president of a corps notices that one of the
+membership who is no longer an exempt--that is a freshman
+--has remained a sophomore some little time without volunteering
+to fight; some day, the president, instead of calling
+for volunteers, will APPOINT this sophomore to measure
+swords with a student of another corps; he is free
+to decline--everybody says so--there is no compulsion.
+This is all true--but I have not heard of any student
+who DID decline; to decline and still remain in the corps
+would make him unpleasantly conspicuous, and properly so,
+since he knew, when he joined, that his main business,
+as a member, would be to fight.  No, there is no law
+against declining--except the law of custom, which is
+confessedly stronger than written law, everywhere.
+
+The ten men whose duels I had witnessed did not go away
+when their hurts were dressed, as I had supposed they would,
+but came back, one after another, as soon as they were free
+of the surgeon, and mingled with the assemblage in the
+dueling-room. The white-cap student who won the second
+fight witnessed the remaining three, and talked with us
+during the intermissions.  He could not talk very well,
+because his opponent's sword had cut his under-lip in two,
+and then the surgeon had sewed it together and overlaid it
+with a profusion of white plaster patches; neither could
+he eat easily, still he contrived to accomplish a slow
+and troublesome luncheon while the last duel was preparing.
+The man who was the worst hurt of all played chess
+while waiting to see this engagement.  A good part of
+his face was covered with patches and bandages, and all
+the rest of his head was covered and concealed by them.
+It is said that the student likes to appear on the street
+and in other public places in this kind of array,
+and that this predilection often keeps him out when
+exposure to rain or sun is a positive danger for him.
+Newly bandaged students are a very common spectacle
+in the public gardens of Heidelberg.  It is also said
+that the student is glad to get wounds in the face,
+because the scars they leave will show so well there;
+and it is also said that these face wounds are so prized
+that youths have even been known to pull them apart
+from time to time and put red wine in them to make
+them heal badly and leave as ugly a scar as possible.
+It does not look reasonable, but it is roundly asserted
+and maintained, nevertheless; I am sure of one thing--scars
+are plenty enough in Germany, among the young men;
+and very grim ones they are, too.  They crisscross the face
+in angry red welts, and are permanent and ineffaceable.
+Some of these scars are of a very strange and dreadful aspect;
+and the effect is striking when several such accent
+the milder ones, which form a city map on a man's face;
+they suggest the "burned district" then.  We had often
+noticed that many of the students wore a colored silk
+band or ribbon diagonally across their breasts.
+It transpired that this signifies that the wearer has
+fought three duels in which a decision was reached--duels
+in which he either whipped or was whipped--for drawn
+battles do not count.  [1] After a student has received
+his ribbon, he is "free"; he can cease from fighting,
+without reproach--except some one insult him; his president
+cannot appoint him to fight; he can volunteer if he
+wants to, or remain quiescent if he prefers to do so.
+Statistics show that he does NOT prefer to remain quiescent.
+They show that the duel has a singular fascination about
+it somewhere, for these free men, so far from resting upon
+the privilege of the badge, are always volunteering.
+A corps student told me it was of record that Prince
+Bismarck fought thirty-two of these duels in a single summer
+term when he was in college.  So he fought twenty-nine
+after his badge had given him the right to retire from
+the field.
+
+1.  FROM MY DIARY.--Dined in a hotel a few miles up the Neckar,
+    in a room whose walls were hung all over with framed
+    portrait-groups of the Five Corps; some were recent,
+    but many antedated photography, and were pictured in
+    lithography--the dates ranged back to forty or fifty
+    years ago.  Nearly every individual wore the ribbon across
+    his breast.  In one portrait-group representing (as each
+    of these pictures did) an entire Corps, I took pains
+    to count the ribbons: there were twenty-seven members,
+    and twenty-one of them wore that significant badge.
+
+The statistics may be found to possess interest in
+several particulars.  Two days in every week are devoted
+to dueling.  The rule is rigid that there must be three
+duels on each of these days; there are generally more,
+but there cannot be fewer.  There were six the day
+I was present; sometimes there are seven or eight.
+It is insisted that eight duels a week--four for each
+of the two days--is too low an average to draw a
+calculation from, but I will reckon from that basis,
+preferring an understatement to an overstatement of the case.
+This requires about four hundred and eighty or five hundred
+duelists a year--for in summer the college term is about
+three and a half months, and in winter it is four months
+and sometimes longer.  Of the seven hundred and fifty
+students in the university at the time I am writing of,
+only eighty belonged to the five corps, and it is only
+these corps that do the dueling; occasionally other
+students borrow the arms and battleground of the five corps
+in order to settle a quarrel, but this does not happen
+every dueling-day. [2] Consequently eighty youths furnish
+the material for some two hundred and fifty duels a year.
+This average gives six fights a year to each of the eighty.
+This large work could not be accomplished if the badge-holders
+stood upon their privilege and ceased to volunteer.
+
+2.  They have to borrow the arms because they could not
+    get them elsewhere or otherwise.  As I understand it,
+    the public authorities, all over Germany, allow the five
+    Corps to keep swords, but DO NOT ALLOW THEM TO USE THEM.
+    This is law is rigid; it is only the execution of it that
+    is lax.
+
+Of course, where there is so much fighting, the students
+make it a point to keep themselves in constant practice
+with the foil.  One often sees them, at the tables in the
+Castle grounds, using their whips or canes to illustrate
+some new sword trick which they have heard about;
+and between the duels, on the day whose history I
+have been writing, the swords were not always idle;
+every now and then we heard a succession of the keen
+hissing sounds which the sword makes when it is being
+put through its paces in the air, and this informed us
+that a student was practicing.  Necessarily, this unceasing
+attention to the art develops an expert occasionally.
+He becomes famous in his own university, his renown spreads
+to other universities.  He is invited to Goettingen,
+to fight with a Goettingen expert; if he is victorious,
+he will be invited to other colleges, or those colleges will
+send their experts to him.  Americans and Englishmen often
+join one or another of the five corps.  A year or two ago,
+the principal Heidelberg expert was a big Kentuckian;
+he was invited to the various universities and left
+a wake of victory behind him all about Germany;
+but at last a little student in Strasburg defeated him.
+There was formerly a student in Heidelberg who had picked
+up somewhere and mastered a peculiar trick of cutting up
+under instead of cleaving down from above.  While the trick
+lasted he won in sixteen successive duels in his university;
+but by that time observers had discovered what his charm was,
+and how to break it, therefore his championship ceased.
+
+A rule which forbids social intercourse between members
+of different corps is strict.  In the dueling-house, in
+the parks, on the street, and anywhere and everywhere that
+the students go, caps of a color group themselves together.
+If all the tables in a public garden were crowded
+but one, and that one had two red-cap students at it
+and ten vacant places, the yellow-caps, the blue-caps,
+the white caps, and the green caps, seeking seats,
+would go by that table and not seem to see it, nor seem
+to be aware that there was such a table in the grounds.
+The student by whose courtesy we had been enabled to visit
+the dueling-place, wore the white cap--Prussian Corps.
+He introduced us to many white caps, but to none of
+another color.  The corps etiquette extended even to us,
+who were strangers, and required us to group with the white
+corps only, and speak only with the white corps, while we
+were their guests, and keep aloof from the caps of the
+other colors.  Once I wished to examine some of the swords,
+but an American student said, "It would not be quite polite;
+these now in the windows all have red hilts or blue;
+they will bring in some with white hilts presently,
+and those you can handle freely.  "When a sword was broken
+in the first duel, I wanted a piece of it; but its hilt
+was the wrong color, so it was considered best and politest
+to await a properer season.  It was brought to me after
+the room was cleared, and I will now make a "life-size"
+sketch of it by tracing a line around it with my pen,
+to show the width of the weapon.  [Figure 1] The length of
+these swords is about three feet, and they are quite heavy.
+One's disposition to cheer, during the course of the
+duels or at their close, was naturally strong, but corps
+etiquette forbade any demonstrations of this sort.
+However brilliant a contest or a victory might be,
+no sign or sound betrayed that any one was moved.
+A dignified gravity and repression were maintained at
+all times.
+
+When the dueling was finished and we were ready to go,
+the gentlemen of the Prussian Corps to whom we had been
+introduced took off their caps in the courteous German way,
+and also shook hands; their brethren of the same order
+took off their caps and bowed, but without shaking hands;
+the gentlemen of the other corps treated us just as
+they would have treated white caps--they fell apart,
+apparently unconsciously, and left us an unobstructed pathway,
+but did not seem to see us or know we were there.
+If we had gone thither the following week as guests of
+another corps, the white caps, without meaning any offense,
+would have observed the etiquette of their order and ignored
+our presence.
+
+[How strangely are comedy and tragedy blended in this life!
+I had not been home a full half-hour, after witnessing
+those playful sham-duels, when circumstances made it
+necessary for me to get ready immediately to assist
+personally at a real one--a duel with no effeminate
+limitation in the matter of results, but a battle
+to the death.  An account of it, in the next chapter,
+will show the reader that duels between boys, for fun,
+and duels between men in earnest, are very different affairs.]
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Tramp Abroad, Part 1
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