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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 05:25:58 -0700 |
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diff --git a/5681-0.txt b/5681-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ca6b344 --- /dev/null +++ b/5681-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2789 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Laws of Etiquette, by A Gentleman + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and +most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms +of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you +will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before +using this eBook. + +Title: The Laws of Etiquette + +Author: A Gentleman + +Release Date: August 7, 2002 [eBook #5681] +[Most recently updated: September 8, 2021] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +Produced by: Holly Ingraham + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAWS OF ETIQUETTE *** + + + + +The Laws of Etiquette + +or, +Short Rules and Reflections + +for +CONDUCT IN SOCIETY. + +by A Gentleman + +PHILADELPHIA: + +1836. + + + + +Transcriber’s Note: Note the inconsistency of “Brummell” in one place +of the original, and “Brummel” all other places. Also “Shakspeare,” +“Don Quixotte,” “Sir Piercy,” and “Esop” are as in the original. + + +Contents + + PREFACE + INTRODUCTION + CHAPTER I. GOOD BREEDING. + CHAPTER II. DRESS. + CHAPTER III. SALUTATIONS. + CHAPTER IV. THE DRAWING-ROOM. COMPANY. CONVERSATION. + CHAPTER V. THE ENTRANCE INTO SOCIETY. + CHAPTER VI. LETTERS. + CHAPTER VII. VISITS. + CHAPTER VIII. APPOINTMENTS AND PUNCTUALITY. + CHAPTER IX. DINNER. + CHAPTER X. TRAVELLING. + CHAPTER XI. BALLS. + CHAPTER XII. FUNERALS. + CHAPTER XIII. SERVANTS. + CHAPTER XIV. FASHION. + CHAPTER XV. MISCELLANEOUS. + + + + +PREFACE + + +The author of the present volume has endeavoured to embody, in as short +a space as possible, some of the results of his own experience and +observation in society, and submits the work to the public, with the +hope that the remarks which are contained in it, may prove available +for the benefit of others. It is, of course, scarcely possible that +anything original should be found in a volume like this: almost all +that it contains must have fallen under the notice of every man of +penetration who has been in the habit of frequenting good society. Many +of the precepts have probably been contained in works of a similar +character which have appeared in England and France since the days of +Lord Chesterfield. Nothing however has been copied from them in the +compilation of this work, the author having in fact scarcely any +acquaintance with books of this description, and many years having +elapsed since he has opened even the pages of the noble oracle. He has +drawn entirely from his own resources, with the exception of some hints +for arrangement, and a few brief reflections, which have been derived +from the French. + +The present volume is almost apart from criticism. It has no +pretensions to be judged as a literary work—its sole merit depending +upon its correctness and fitness of application. Upon these grounds he +ventures to hope for it a favourable reception. + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +The great error into which nearly all foreigners and most Americans +fall, who write or speak of society in this country, arises from +confounding the political with the social system. In most other +countries, in England, France, and all those nations whose government +is monarchical or aristocratic, these systems are indeed similar. +Society is there intimately connected with the government, and the +distinctions in one are the origin of gradations in the other. The +chief part of the society of the kingdom is assembled in the capital, +and the same persons who legislate for the country legislate also for +it. But in America the two systems are totally unconnected, and +altogether different in character. In remodelling the form of the +administration, society remained unrepublican. There is perfect freedom +of political privilege, all are the same upon the hustings, or at a +political meeting; but this equality does not extend to the +drawing-room or the parlour. None are excluded from the highest +councils of the nation, but it does not follow that all can enter into +the highest ranks, of society. In point of fact, we think that there is +more exclusiveness in the society of this country, than there is in +that even of England—far more than there is in France. And the +explanation may perhaps be found in the fact which we hate mentioned +above. There being _there_ less danger of permanent disarrangement or +confusion of ranks by the occasional admission of the low-born +aspirant, there does not exist the same necessity for a jealous +guarding of the barriers as there does here. The distinction of +classes, also, after the first or second, is actually more clearly +defined, and more rigidly observed in America, than in any country of +Europe. Persons unaccustomed to look searchingly at these matters, may +be surprised to hear it; but we know from observation, that there are +among the respectable, in any city of the United States, at least ten +distinct ranks. We cannot, of course, here point them out, because we +could not do it without mentioning names. + +Every man is naturally desirous of finding entrance into the best +society of his country, and it becomes therefore a matter of importance +to ascertain what qualifications are demanded for admittance. + +A writer who is popularly unpopular, has remarked, that the test of +standing in Boston, is literary eminence; in New York, wealth; and in +Philadelphia, purity of blood. + +To this remark, we can only oppose our opinion, that none of these are +indispensable, and none of them sufficient. The society of this +country, unlike that of England, does not court literary talent. We +have cases in our recollection, which prove the remark, in relation to +the highest ranks, even of Boston. Wealth has no pretensions to be the +standard anywhere. In New York, the Liverpool of America, although the +rich may make greater display and _bruit_, yet all of the merely rich, +will find that there does exist a small and unchanging circle, whether +above or below them, ‘it is not ours to say,’ yet completely apart from +them, into which they would rejoice to find entrance, and from which +they would be glad to receive emigrants. + +Whatever may be the accomplishments necessary to render one capable of +reaching the highest platform of social eminence, and it is not easy to +define clearly what they are, there is one thing, and one alone, which +will enable any man to _retain_ his station there; and that is, GOOD +BREEDING. Without it, we believe that literature, wealth, and even +blood, will be unsuccessful. By it, if it co-exist with a certain +capacity of affording pleasure by conversation, any one, we imagine, +could frequent the very best society in every city of America, and +_perhaps the very best alone._ To obtain, then, the manners of a +gentleman is a matter of no small importance. + +We do not pretend that a man will be metamorphosed into a gentleman by +reading this book, or any other book. Refined manners are like refined +style which Cicero compares to the colour of the cheeks, which is not +acquired by sudden or violent exposure to heat, but by continual +walking in the sun. Good manners can certainly only be acquired by much +usage in good company. But there are a number of little forms, +imperiously enacted by custom, which may be taught in this manner, and +the conscious ignorance of which often prevents persons from going into +company at all. + +These forms may be abundantly absurd, but still they _must_ be attended +to; for one half the world does and always will observe them, and the +other half is at a great disadvantage if it does not. Intercourse is +constantly taking place, and an awkward man of letters, in the society +of a polished man of the world, is like a strong man contending with a +skilful fencer. Mr. Addison says, that he once saw the ablest +mathematician in the kingdom utterly embarrassed, from not knowing +whether he ought to stand or sit when my lord duke drank his health. + +Some of the many errors which are liable to be committed through +ignorance of usage, are pleasantly pointed out in the following story, +which is related by a French writer. + +The Abbé Cosson, professor in the _Collége Mazarin_, thoroughly +accomplished in the art of teaching, saturated with Greek, Latin, and +literature, considered himself a perfect well of science: he had no +conception that a man who knew all Persius and Horace by heart could +possibly commit an error—above all, an error at table. But it was not +long before he discovered his mistake. One day, after dining with the +Abbé de Radonvillers at Versailles, in company with several courtiers +and marshals of France, he was boasting of the rare acquaintance with +etiquette and custom which he had exhibited at dinner. The Abbé +Delille, who heard this eulogy upon his own conduct, interrupted his +harangue, by offering to wager that he had committed at least a hundred +improprieties at the table. “How is it possible!” exclaimed Cosson. “I +did exactly like the rest of the company.” + +“What absurdity!” said the other. “You did a thousand things which no +one else did. First, when you sat down at the table, what did you do +with your napkin?” “My napkin? Why just what every body else did with +theirs. I unfolded it entire]y, and fastened it to my buttonhole.” +“Well, my dear friend,” said Delille, “you were the only one that did +_that_, at all events. No one hangs up his napkin in that style; they +are contented with placing it on their knees. And what did you, do when +you took your soup?” “Like the others, I believe. I took my spoon in +one hand, and my fork in the other—” “Your fork! Who ever eat soup with +a fork?—But to proceed; after your soup, what did you eat?” “A fresh +egg.” “And what did you do with the shell?” “Handed it to the servant +who stood behind my chair.” “With out breaking it?” “Without breaking +it, of course.” “Well, my dear Abbé, nobody ever eats an egg without +breaking the shell. And after your egg—?” “I asked the Abbé +Radonvillers to send me a piece of the hen near him.” “Bless my soul! a +piece of the _hen_? You never speak of hens excepting in the barn-yard. +You should have asked for fowl or chicken. But you say nothing of your +mode of drinking.” “Like all the rest, I asked for _claret_ and +_champagne._” “Let me inform you, then, that persons always ask for +_claret wine_ and _champagne wine._ But, tell me, how did you eat your +bread?” “Surely I did that properly. I cut it with my knife, in the +most regular manner possible.” “Bread should always be broken, not cut. +But the coffee, how did you manage it?” “It was rather too hot, and I +poured a little of it into my saucer.” “Well, you committed here the +greatest fault of all. You should never pour your coffee into the +saucer, but always drink it from the cup.” The poor Abbé was +confounded. He felt that though one might be master of the seven +sciences, yet that there was another species of knowledge which, if +less dignified, was equally important. + +This occurred many years ago, but there is not one of the observances +neglected by the Abbé Cosson, which is not enforced with equal +rigidness in the present day. + + + + +CHAPTER I. +GOOD BREEDING. + + +The formalities of refined society were at first established for the +purpose of facilitating the intercourse of persons of the same +standing, and increasing the happiness of all to whom they apply. They +are now kept up, both to assist the convenience of intercourse and to +prevent too great familiarity. If they are carried too far, and escape +from the control of good sense, they become impediments to enjoyment. +Among the Chinese they serve only the purpose of annoying to an +incalculable degree. “The government,” says De Marcy, in writing of +China, “constantly applies itself to preserve, not only in the court +and among the great, but among the people themselves, a constant habit +of civility and courtesy. The Chinese have an infinity of books upon +such subjects; one of these treatises contains more than three thousand +articles.— Everything is pointed out with the most minute detail; the +manner of saluting, of visiting, of making presents, of writing +letters, of eating, etc.: and these customs have the force of laws—no +one can dispense with them. There is a special tribunal at Peking, of +which it is one of the chief duties, to ensure the observance of these +civil ordinances?” + +One would think that one was here reading an account of the capital of +France. It depends, then, upon the spirit in which these forms are +observed, whether their result shall be beneficial or not. The French +and the Chinese are the most formal of all the nations. Yet the one is +the stiffest and most distant; the other, the easiest and most social. + +“We may define politeness,” says La Bruyère, “though we cannot tell +where to fix it in practice. It observes received usages and customs, +is bound to times and places, and is not the same thing in the two +sexes or in different conditions. Wit alone cannot obtain it: it is +acquired and brought to perfection by emulation. Some dispositions +alone are susceptible of politeness, as others are only capable of +great talents or solid virtues. It is true politeness puts merit +forward, and renders it agreeable, and a man must have eminent +qualifications to support himself without it.” Perhaps even the +greatest merit cannot successfully straggle against unfortunate and +disagreeable manners. Lord Chesterfield says that the Duke of +Marlborough owed his first promotions to the suavity of his manners, +and that without it he could not have risen. + +La Bruyère has elsewhere given this happy definition of politeness, the +other passage being rather a description of it. “Politeness seems to be +a certain care, by the manner of our words and actions, to make others +pleased with us and themselves.” + +We must here stop to point out an error which is often committed both +in practice and opinion, and which consists in confounding together the +gentleman and the man of fashion. No two characters can be more +distinct than these. Good sense and self-respect are the foundations of +the one—notoriety and influence the objects of the other. Men of +fashion are to be seen everywhere: a pure and mere gentleman is the +rarest thing alive. Brummel was a man of fashion; but it would be a +perversion of terms to apply to him “a very expressive word in our +language,—a word, denoting an assemblage of many real virtues and of +many qualities approaching to virtues, and an union of manners at once +pleasing and commanding respect,— the word gentleman.”* The requisites +to compose this last character are natural ease of manner, and an +acquaintance with the “outward habit of encounter”—dignity and +self-possession—a respect for all the decencies of life, and perfect +freedom from all affectation. Dr. Johnson’s bearing during his +interview with the king showed him to be a thorough gentleman, and +demonstrates how rare and elevated that character is. When his majesty +expressed in the language of compliment his high opinion of Johnson’s +merits, the latter bowed in silence. If Chesterfield could have +retained sufficient presence of mind to have done the same on such an +occasion, he would have applauded himself to the end of his days. So +delicate is the nature of those qualities that constitute a gentleman, +that there is but one exhibition of this description of persons in all +the literary and dramatic fictions from Shakespeare downward. Scott has +not attempted it. Bulwer, in “Pelham,” has shot wide of the mark. It +was reserved for the author of two very singular productions, +“Sydenham” and its continuation “Alice Paulet”—works of extraordinary +merits and extraordinary faults—to portray this character completely, +in the person of Mr. Paulet. + +* Charles Butler’s Reminiscences + + + + +CHAPTER II. +DRESS. + + +First impressions are apt to be permanent; it is therefore of +importance that they should be favourable. The dress of an individual +is that circumstance from which you first form your opinion of him. It +is even more prominent than manner, It is indeed the only thing which +is remarked in a casual encounter, or during the first interview. It, +therefore, should be the first care. + +What style is to our thoughts, dress is to our persons. It may supply +the place of more solid qualities, and without it the most solid are +of little avail. Numbers have owed their elevation to their attention +to the toilet. Place, fortune, marriage have all been lost by +neglecting it. A man need not mingle long with the world to find +occasion to exclaim with Sedaine, “Ah! mon habit, que je vous +remercie!” In spite of the proverb, the dress often _does_ make the +monk. + +Your dress should always be consistent with your age and your natural +exterior. That which looks outr, on one man, will be agreeable on +another. As success in this respect depends almost entirely upon +particular circumstances and personal peculiarities, it is impossible +to give general directions of much importance. We can only point out +the field for study and research; it belongs to each one’s own genius +and industry to deduce the results. However ugly you may be, rest +assured that there is some style of habiliment which will make you +passable. + +If, for example, you have a stain upon your cheek which rivals in +brilliancy the best Chateau-Margout; or, are afflicted with a nose +whose lustre dims the ruby, you may employ such hues of dress, that the +eye, instead of being shocked by the strangeness of the defect, will be +charmed by the graceful harmony of the colours. Every one cannot indeed +be an Adonis, but it is his own fault if he is an Esop. + +If you have bad, squinting eyes, which have lost their lashes and are +bordered with red, you should wear spectacles. If the defect be great, +your glasses should be coloured. In such cases emulate the sky rather +than the sea: green spectacles are an abomination, fitted only for +students in divinity,— blue ones are respectable and even _distingué._ + +Almost every defect of face may be concealed by a judicious use and +arrangement of hair. Take care, however, that your hair be not of one +colour and your whiskers of another; and let your wig be large enough +to cover the _whole_ of your red or white hair. + +It is evident, therefore, that though a man may be ugly, there is no +necessity for his being shocking. Would that all men were convinced of +this! I verily believe that if Mr. — in his walking-dress, and Mr. — in +his evening costume were to meet alone, in some solitary place, where +there was nothing to divert their attention from one another, they +would expire of mutual hideousness. + +If you have any defect, so striking and so ridiculous as to procure you +a _nickname_ then indeed there is but one remedy,—renounce society. + +In the morning, before eleven o’clock even if you go out, you should +not be dressed. You would be stamped a _parvenu_ if you were seen in +anything better than a reputable old frock coat. If you remain at home, +and are a bachelor, it is permitted to receive visitors in a morning +gown. In summer, calico; in winter, figured cloth, faced with fur. At +dinner, a coat, of course, is indispensable. + +The effect of a frock coat is to conceal the height. If, therefore, you +are beneath the ordinary statue, or much above it, you should affect +frock coats on all occasions that etiquette permits. + +Before going to a ball or party it is not sufficient that you consult +your mirror twenty times. You must be personally inspected by your +servant or a friend. Through defect of this, I once saw a gentleman +enter a ball-room, attired with scrupulous elegance, but with one of +his suspenders curling in graceful festoons about his feet. His glass +could not show what was behind. + +If you are about to present yourself in a company composed only of men, +you may wear boots. If there be but one lady present, pumps and +silk-stockings are indispensable. + +There is a common proverb which says, that if a man be well dressed as +to head and feet, he may present himself everywhere. The assertion is +as false as Mr. Kemble’s voice. Happy indeed if it were necessary to +perfect only the extremities. The coat, the waistcoat, the gloves, and, +above all, the cravat, must be alike ignorant of blemish. + +Upon the subject of the cravat—(for heaven’s sake and Brummel’s, never +appear in a stock after twelve o’clock)—We cannot at present say +anything. If we were to say anything, we could not be content without +saying all, and to say all would require a folio. A book has been +published upon the subject, entitled “The Cravat considered in its +moral, literary, political, military, and religious attributes.” This +and a clever, though less profound, treatise on “The art of tying the +Cravat,” are as indispensable to a gentleman as an ice at twelve +o’clock. + +When we speak of excellence in dress we do not mean richness of +clothing, nor manifested elaboration. Faultless propriety, perfect +harmony, and a refined simplicity,—these are the charms which fascinate +here. + +It is as great a sin to be finical in dress as to be negligent. + +Upon this subject the ladies are the only infallible oracles. Apart +from the perfection to which they must of necessity arrive, from +devoting their entire existence to such considerations, they seem to be +endued with an inexpressible tact, a sort of sixth sense, which reveals +intuitively the proper distinctions. That your dress is approved by a +man is nothing;—you cannot enjoy the high satisfaction of being +perfectly comme il faut, until your performance has received the seal +of a woman’s approbation. + +If the benefits to be derived from cultivating your exterior do not +appear sufficiently powerful to induce attention, the inconveniences +arising from too great disregard may perhaps prevail. Sir Matthew Hale, +in the earlier part of his life, dressed so badly that he was once +seized by the press-gang. Not long since, as I entered the hall of a +public hotel, I saw a person so villainously habited, that supposing +him to be one of the servants, I desired him to take my luggage +upstairs, and was on the point of offering him a shilling, when I +discovered that I was addressing the Honorable Mr. * * *, one of the +most eminent American statesmen. + + + + +CHAPTER III. +SALUTATIONS. + + +The salutation, says a French writer, is the touchstone of good +breeding. According to circumstances, it should be respectful, cordial, +civil, affectionate or familiar:—an inclination of the head, a gesture +with the hand, the touching or doffing of the hat. + +If you remove your hat you need not at the same time bend the dorsal +vertebræ of your body, unless you wish to be very reverential, as in +saluting a bishop. + +It is a mark of high breeding not to speak to a lady in the street, +until you perceive that she has noticed you by an inclination of the +head. + +Some ladies _courtesy_ in the street, a movement not gracefully +consistent with locomotion. They should always _bow._ + +If an individual of the lowest rank, or without any rank at all, takes +off his hat to you, you should do the same in return. A bow, says La +Fontaine, is a note drawn at sight. If you acknowledge it, you must pay +the full amount. The two best-bred men in England, Charles the Second +and George the Fourth, never failed to take off their hats to the +meanest of their subjects. + +Avoid condescending bows to your friends and equals. If you meet a rich +parvenu, whose consequence you wish to reprove, you may salute him in a +very patronizing manner: or else, in acknowledging his bow, look +somewhat surprised and say, “Mister—eh—eh?” + +If you have remarkably fine teeth, you may smile affectionately upon +the bowee, without speaking. + +In passing ladies of rank, whom you meet in society, bow, but do not +speak. + +If you have anything to say to any one in the street, especially a +lady, however intimate you may be, do not stop the person, but turn +round and walk in company; you can take leave at the end of the street. + +If there is any one of your acquaintance, with whom you have a +difference, do not avoid looking at him, unless from the nature of +things the quarrel is necessarily for life. It is almost always better +to bow with cold civility, though without speaking. + +As a general rule never _cut_ any one in the street. Even political and +steamboat acquaintances should be noticed by the slightest movement in +the world. If they presume to converse with you, or stop you to +introduce their companion, it is then time to use your eye-glass, and +say, “I never knew you.” + +If you address a lady in the open air, you remain uncovered until she +has desired you _twice_ to put on your hat. In general, if you are in +any place where _etiquette_ requires you to remain uncovered or +standing, and a lady, or one much your superior, requests you to be +covered or to sit, you may how off the command. If it is repeated, you +should comply. You thereby pay the person a marked, but delicate, +compliment, by allowing their will to be superior to the general +obligations of etiquette. + +When two Americans, who “have not been introduced,” meet in some public +place, as in a theatre, a stagecoach, or a steamboat, they will sit for +an hour staring in one another’s faces, but without a word of +conversation. This form of unpoliteness has been adopted from the +English, and it is as little worthy of imitation as the form of their +government. Good sense and convenience are the foundations of good +breeding; and it is assuredly vastly more reasonable and more agreeable +to enjoy a passing gratification, when no sequent evil is to be +apprehended, than to be rendered uncomfortable by an ill-founded pride. +It is therefore better to carry on an easy and civil conversation. A +snuff-box, or some polite accommodation rendered, may serve for an +opening. Talk only about generalities,—the play, the roads, the +weather. Avoid speaking of persons or politics, for, if the individual +is of the opposite party to yourself, you will be engaged in a +controversy: if he holds the same opinions, you will be overwhelmed +with a flood of vulgar intelligence, which may soil your mind. Be +reservedly civil while the colloquy lasts, and let the acquaintance +cease with the occasion. + +When you are introduced to a gentleman do not give your hand, but +merely bow with politeness: and if you have requested the introduction, +or know the person by reputation, you may make a speech. I am aware +that high authority might easily be found in this country to sanction +the custom of giving the hand upon a first meeting, but it is +undoubtedly a solecism in manners. The habit has been adopted by us, +with some improvement for the worse, from France. When two Frenchmen +are presented to one another, each _presses_ the other’s hand with +delicate affection. The English, however, never do so: and the +practice, if abstractly correct, is altogether inconsistent with the +caution of manner which is characteristic of their nation and our own. +If we are to follow the French, in shaking hands with one whom we have +never before seen, we should certainly imitate them also in kissing our +_intimate_ male acquaintances. If, however, you ought only to bow to a +new acquaintance, you surely should do more to old ones. If you meet an +intimate friend fifty times in a morning, give your hand every time,—an +observance of propriety, which, though worthy of universal adoption, is +in this country only followed by the purists in politeness. The +requisitions of etiquette, if they should be obeyed at all, should be +obeyed fully. This decent formality prevents acquaintance from being +too distant, while, at the same time, it preserves the “familiar” from +becoming “vulgar.” They may be little things, but + +“These little things are great to little men.” + +Goldsmith. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. +THE DRAWING-ROOM. COMPANY. CONVERSATION. + + +The grand object for which a gentleman exists, is to excel in company. +Conversation is the mean of his distinction,—the drawing-room the scene +of his glory. + +When you enter a drawing-room, where there is a ball or a party, you +salute the lady of the house before speaking to any one else. Even your +most intimate friends are enveloped in an opaque atmosphere until you +have made your bow to your entertainer. We must take occasion here to +obelize a custom which prevails too generally in this country. The +company enter the back door of the back parlour, and the mistress of +the house is seated at the other extremity of the front parlour. It is +therefore necessary to traverse the length of two rooms in order to +reach her. A voyage of this kind is by no means an easy undertaking, +when there are Circes and Calypsos assailing one on every side; and +when one has reached the conclusion, one cannot perhaps distinguish the +object of one’s search at a _coup d’œil._ It would be in every point of +view more appropriate if the lady were to stand directly opposite to +the door of the back parlour. Such is the custom in the best companies +abroad. Upon a single gentleman entering at a late hour, it is not so +obligatory to speak first to the mistress of the ceremonies. He may be +allowed to converge his way up to her. When you leave a room before the +others, go without speaking to any one, and, if possible, unseen. + +Never permit the sanctity of the drawing-room to be violated by a boot. + +Fashionable society is divided into _sets_, in all of which there is +some peculiarity of manner, or some dominant tone of feeling. It is +necessary to study these peculiarities before entering the circle. + +In each of these sets there is generally some _gentleman_, who rules, +and gives it its character, or, rather, who is not ruler, but the first +and most favoured subject, and the prime minister of the ladies’ will. +Him you must endeavour to imitate, taking care not to imitate him so +well as to excel him. To differ in manner or opinion from him is to +render yourself unfit for that circle. To speak disrespectfully of him +is to insult personally every lady who composes it. + +In company, though none are “free,” yet all are “equal.” All therefore +whom you meet, should be treated with equal respect, although interest +may dictate toward each different degrees of attention. It is +disrespectful to the inviter to shun any of her guests. Those whom she +has honoured by asking to her house, you should sanction by admitting +to your acquaintance. + +If you meet any one whom you have never heard of before at the table of +a gentleman, or in the drawing-room of a lady, you may converse with +him with entire propriety. The form of “introduction” is nothing more +than a statement by a mutual friend that two gentlemen are by rank and +manners fit acquaintances for one another. All this may be presumed +from the fact, that both meet at a respectable house. This is the +theory of the matter. Custom, however, requires that you should take +the earliest opportunity afterwards to be regularly presented to such +an one. + +Men of all sorts of occupations meet in society. As they go there to +unbend their minds and escape from the fetters of business, you should +never, in an evening, speak to a man about his professions. Do not talk +of politics with a journalist, of fevers to a physician, of stocks to a +broker,—nor, unless you wish to enrage him to the utmost, of +education to a collegian. The error which is here condemned is often +committed from mere good nature and a desire to be affable. But it +betrays to a gentleman, ignorance of the world—to a philosopher, +ignorance of human nature. The one considers that “Tous les hommes sont +égaux devant la politesse:” the other remembers that though it may be +agreeable to be patronised and assisted, yet it is still more agreeable +to be treated as if you needed no patronage, and were above assistance. + +Sir Joshua Reynolds once received from two noblemen invitations to +visit them on Sunday morning. The first, whom he waited upon, welcomed +him with the most obsequious condescension, treated him with all the +attention in the world, professed that he was so desirous of seeing +him, that he had mentioned Sunday as the time for his visit, supposing +him to be too much engaged during the week, to spare time enough for +the purpose, concluded his compliments by an eulogy on painting, and +smiled him affectionately to the door. Sir Joshua left him, to call +upon the other. That one received him with respectful civility, and +behaved to him as he would have behaved to an equal in the +peerage:—said nothing about Raphael nor Correggio, but conversed with +ease about literature and men. This nobleman was the Earl of +Chesterfield. Sir Joshua felt, that though the one had said that he +respected him, the other had proved that he did, and went away from +this one gratified rather than from the first. Reader, there is wisdom +in this anecdote. Mark, learn, and inwardly digest it: and let this be +the moral which you deduce,—that there is distinction in society, but +that there are no distinctions. + +The great business in company is conversation. It should be studied as +art. Style in conversation is as important, and as capable of +cultivation as style in writing. The manner of saying things is what +gives them their value. + +The most important requisite for succeeding here, is constant and +unfaltering attention. That which Churchill has noted as the greatest +virtue on the stage, is also the most necessary in company,—to be +“always attentive to the business of the scene.” Your understanding +should, like your person, be armed at all points. Never go into society +with your mind _en deshabille._ It is fatal to success to be all absent +or _distrait._ The secret of conversation has been said to consist in +building upon the remark of your companion. Men of the strongest minds, +who have solitary habits and bookish dispositions, rarely excel in +sprightly colloquy, because they seize upon the _thing_ itself,—the +subject abstractly,—instead of attending to the _language_ of other +speakers, and do not cultivate _verbal_ pleasantries and refinements. +He who does otherwise gains a reputation for quickness, and pleases by +showing that he has regarded the observation of others. + +It is an error to suppose that conversation consists in talking. A more +important thing is to listen discreetly. Mirabeau said, that to succeed +in the world, it is necessary to submit to be taught many things which +you understand, by persons who know nothing about them. Flattery is the +smoothest path to success; and the most refined and gratifying +compliment you can pay, is to listen. “The wit of conversation consists +more in finding it in others,” says La Bruyère, “than in showing a +great deal yourself: he who goes from your conversation pleased with +himself and his own wit, is perfectly well pleased with you. Most men +had rather please than admire you, and seek less to be instructed,—nay, +delighted,—than to be approved and applauded. The most delicate +pleasure is to please another.” + +It is certainly proper enough to convince others of your merits. But +the highest idea which you can give a man of your own penetration, is +to be thoroughly impressed with his. + +Patience is a social engine, as well as a Christian virtue. To listen, +to wait, and to be wearied are the certain elements of good fortune. + +If there be any foreigner present at a dinner party, or small evening +party, who does not understand the language which is spoken, good +breeding requires that the conversation should be carried on entirely +in his language. Even among your most intimate friends, never address +any one in a language not understood by all the others. It is as bad as +whispering. + +Never speak to any one in company about a private affair which is not +understood by others, as asking how _that_ matter is coming on, &c. In +so doing you indicate your opinion that the rest are _de trop._ If you +wish to make any such inquiries, always explain to others the business +about which you inquire, if the subject admit of it. + +If upon the entrance of a visitor you continue a conversation begun +before, you should always explain the subject to the new-comer. + +If there is any one in the company whom you do not know, be careful how +you let off any epigrams or pleasant little sarcasms. You might be very +witty upon halters to a man whose father had been hanged. The first +requisite for successful conversation is to know your company well. + +We have spoken above of the necessity of relinquishing the prerogative +of our race, and being contented with recipient silence. There is +another precept of a kindred nature to be observed, namely, not to talk +too well when you do talk. You do not raise yourself much in the +opinion of another, if at the same time that you amuse him, you wound +him in the nicest point,—his self-love. Besides irritating vanity, a +constant flow of wit is excessively fatiguing to the listeners. A witty +man is an agreeable acquaintance, but a tiresome friend. “The wit of +the company, next to the butt of the company,” says Mrs. Montagu, “is +the meanest person in it. The great duty of conversation is to follow +suit, as you do at whist: if the eldest hand plays the deuce of +diamonds, let not his next neighbour dash down the king of hearts, +because his hand is full of honours. I do not love to see a man of wit +win all the tricks in conversation.” + +In addressing any one, always look at him; and if there are several +present, you will please more by directing some portion of your +conversation, as an anecdote or statement, to each one individually in +turn. This was the great secret of Sheridan’s charming manner. His +bon-mots were not numerous. + +Never ask a question under any circumstances. In the first place it is +too proud; in the second place, it may be very inconvenient or very +awkward to give a reply. A lady lately inquired of what branch of +medical practice a certain gentleman was professor. He held the chair +of _midwifery_! + +It is indispensable for conversation to be well acquainted with the +current news and the historical events of the last few years. It is not +convenient to be quite so far behind the rest of the world in such +matters, as the Courier des Etats-Unis. That sapient journal lately +announced the dethronement of Charles X. We may expect soon to hear of +the accession of Louis Philippe. + +In society never quote. If you get entangled in a dispute with some +learned blockhead, you may silence him with a few extemporary +quotations. Select the author for whom he has the greatest admiration, +and give him a passage in the style of that writer, which most +pointedly condemns the opinion he supports. If it does not convince +him, he will be so much stunned with amazement that you can make your +escape, and avoid the unpleasant necessity of knocking him down. + +The ordinary weapons which one employs in social encounter, are, +whether dignified or not, always at least honourable. There are some, +however, who habitually prefer to bribe the judge, rather than +strengthen their cause. The instrument of such is flattery. There are, +indeed, cases in which a man of honour may use the same weapon; as +there are cases in which a poisoned sword may be employed for +self-defence. + +Flattery prevails over all, always, and in all places; it conquers the +conqueror of Danäe: few are beneath it, none above it: the court, the +camp, the church, are the scenes of its victories, and all mankind the +subjects of its triumphs. It will be acknowledged, then, that a man +possesses no very contemptible power who can flatter skillfully. + +The power of flattery may be derived from several sources. It may be, +that the person flattered, finding himself gratified, and conscious +that it is to the flatterer that he is indebted for this gratification, +feels an obligation to him, without inquiring the reason; or it may be, +that imagining ourselves to stand high in the good opinion of the one +that praises us, We comply with what he desires, rather than forfeit +that esteem: or, finally, flattery may be only a marked politeness, and +we submit ourselves to the control of the flatterer rather than be +guilty of the rudeness of opposing him. + +Flattery never should be direct. It should not be stated, but inferred. +It is better acted than uttered. Flattery should seem to be the +unwitting and even unwilling expression of genuine admiration. Some +very weak persons do not require that expressions of praise and esteem +toward them should be sincere. They are pleased with the incense, +although they perceive whence it arises: they are pleased that they are +of importance enough to have their favour courted. But in most eases it +is necessary that the flattery should appear to be the honest offspring +of the feelings. _Such_ flattery _must_ succeed; for, it is founded +upon a principle in our nature which is as deep as life; namely, that +we always love those who we think love us. + +It is sometimes flattery to accept praises. + +Never flatter one person in the presence of another. + +Never commend a lady’s musical skill to another lady who herself plays. + +It has often, however, a good effect to praise one man to his +particular friend, if it be for something to which that friend has +himself no pretensions. + +It is an error to imagine that men are less intoxicated with flattery +than women. The only difference is that esteem must be expressed to +women, but proved to men. + +Flattery is of course efficacious to obtain positive benefits. It is +of, more constant use, however, for purposes of defence. You conquer an +attack of rudeness by courtesy: you avert an attack of accusation by +flattery. Every:one remembers the anecdote of Dr. Johnson and Mr. +Ewing. “Prince,” said Napoleon to Talleyrand, “they tell me that you +sometimes speculate improperly in the funds.” “They do me wrong then,” +said Talleyrand. “But how did you acquire so much money!” “I bought +stock the day before you were proclaimed First Consul,” replied the +ex-bishop, “and I sold it the day after.” + +Compliments are light skirmishes in the war of flattery, for the +purpose of obtaining an occasional object. They are little false coins +that you receive with one hand and pay away with the other. To flatter +requires a profound knowledge of human nature and of the character of +your subject; to compliment skillfully, it is sufficient that you are a +pupil of Spurzheim. + +It is a common practice with men to abstain from grave conversation +with women. And the habit is in general judicious. If the woman is +young, gay and trifling, talk to her only of the latest fashions, the +gossip of the day, etc. But this in other cases is not to be done. Most +women who are a little old, particularly married women — and even some +who are young — wish to obtain a reputation for intellect and an +acquaintance With science. You therefore pay them a real compliment, +and gratify their self-love, by conversing occasionally upon grave +matters, which they do not understand, and do not really relish. You +may interrupt a discussion on the beauty of a dahlia, by observing that +as you know that they take an interest in such things you mention the +discovery of a new method of analyzing curves of double curvature. Men +who talk only of trifles will rarely be popular with women past +twenty-five. + +Talk to a mother about her children. Women are never tired of hearing +of themselves and their children. + +If you go to a house where there are children you should take especial +care to conciliate their good will by a little manly _tete-a-tete_, +otherwise you may get a ball against your skins, or be tumbled from a +three-legged chair. + +To be able to converse with women you must study their vocabulary. You +would make a great mistake in interpreting _never, forever_, as they +are explained in Johnson. + +Do not be for ever telling a woman that she is handsome, witty, etc. +She knows that a vast deal better than you do. + +Do not allow your love for one woman to prevent your paying attention +to others. The object of your love is the only one who ought to +perceive it. + +A little pride, which reminds you what is due to yourself, and a little +good nature, which suggests what is due to others, are the +pre-requisites for the moral constitution of a gentleman. + +Too much vivacity and too much inertness are both fatal to politeness. +By the former we are hurried too far, by the latter we are kept too +much back. + +_Nil admirari_, the precept of stoicism, is the precept for conduct +among gentlemen. All excitement must be studiously avoided. When you +are with ladies the case is different. Among them, wonder, +astonishment, ecstacy, and enthusiasm, are necessary in order to be +believed. + +Never dispute in the presence of other persons. If a man states an +opinion which you cannot adopt, say nothing. If he states a fact which +is of little importance, you may carelessly assent. When you differ let +it be indirectly; rather a want of assent than actual dissent. + +If you wish to inquire about anything, do not do it by asking a +question; but introduce the subject, and give the person an opportunity +of saying as much as he finds it agreeable to impart. Do not even say, +“How is your brother to-day?” but “I hope your brother is quite well.” + +Never ask a lady a question about anything whatever. + +It is a point of courtly etiquette which is observed rigorously by +every one who draws nigh, that a question must never be put to a king. + +Never ask a question about the price of a thing. This horrible error is +often committed by a _nouveau riche._ + +If you have accepted an invitation to a party never fail to keep your +promise. It is cruel to the lady of the house to accept, and then send +an apology at the last moment. Especially do not break your word on +account of bad weather. You may be certain that many others will, and +the inciter will be mortified by the paucity of her guests. A cloak and +a carriage will secure you from all inconvenience, and you will be +conferring a real benefit. + + + + +CHAPTER V. +THE ENTRANCE INTO SOCIETY. + + +Women, particularly women a little on the decline, are those who make +the reputation of a young man. When the lustre of their distinction +begins to fade, a slight feeling of less wonted leisure, perhaps a +little spite, makes them observe attentively those who surround them. +Eager to gain new admirers, they encourage the first steps of a +_debutant_ in the career of society, and exert themselves to fit him to +do honour to their patronage. + +A young man, therefore, in entering the world, cannot be too attentive +to conciliate the goodwill of women. Their approbation and support will +serve him instead of a thousand good qualities. Their judgment +dispenses with fortune, talent, and even intelligence. “Les hommes font +les lois: les femmes font les reputations.” + +The desire of pleasing is, of course, the basis of social connexion. +Persons who enter society with the intention of producing an effect, +and of being distinguished, however clever they may be, are never +agreeable. They are always tiresome, and often ridiculous. Persons, who +enter life with such pretensions, have no opportunity for improving +themselves and profiting by experience. They are not in a proper state +to _observe_: indeed, they look only for the effect which they produce, +and with that they are not often gratified. They thrust themselves into +all conversations, indulge in continual anecdotes, which are varied +only by dull disquisitions, listen to others with impatience and +heedlessness, and are angry that they seem to be attending to +themselves. Such men go through scenes of pleasure, enjoying nothing. +They are equally disagreeable to themselves and others. Young men +should, therefore, content themselves with being natural. Let them +present themselves with a modest assurance: let them observe, hear, and +examine, and before long they will rival their models. + +The conversation of those women who are not the most lavishly supplied +with personal beauty, will be of the most advantage to the young +aspirant. Such persons have cultivated their manners and conversation +more than those who can rely upon their natural endowments. The absence +of pride and pretension has improved their good nature and their +affability. They are not too much occupied in contemplating their own +charms, to be disposed to indulge in gentle criticism on others. One +acquires from them an elegance in one’s manners as well as one’s +expressions. Their kindness pardons every error, and to instruct or +reprove, their acts are so delicate that the lesson which they give, +always without offending, is sure to be profitable, though it may be +often unperceived. + +Women observe all the delicacies of propriety in manners, and all the +shades of impropriety, much better than men; not only because they +attend to them earlier and longer, but because their perceptions are +more refined than those of the other sex, who are habitually employed +about greater things. Women divine, rather than arrive at, proper +conclusions. + +The whims and caprices of women in society should of course be +tolerated by men, who themselves require toleration for greater +inconveniences. But this must not be carried too far. There are certain +limits to empire which, if they themselves forget, should be pointed +out to them with delicacy and politeness. You should be the slave of +women, but not of all their fancies. + +Compliment is the language of intercourse from men to women. But be +careful to avoid elaborate and common-place forms of gallant speech. Do +not strive to make those long eulogies on a woman, which have the +regularity and nice dependency of a proposition in Euclid, and might be +fittingly concluded by Q. E. D. Do not be always undervaluing her rival +in a woman’s presence, nor mistaking a woman’s daughter for her sister. +These antiquated and exploded attempts denote a person who has learned +the world more from books than men. + +The quality which a young man should most affect in intercourse with +gentlemen, is a decent modesty: but he must avoid all bashfulness or +timidity. His flights must not go too far; but, so far as they go, let +them be marked by perfect assurance. + +Among persons who are much your seniors behave with the utmost +respectful deference. As they find themselves sliding out of importance +they may be easily conciliated by a little respect. + +By far the most important thing to be attended to, is ease of manner. +Grace may be added afterwards, or be omitted altogether: it is of much +less moment than is commonly believed. Perfect propriety and entire +ease are sufficient qualifications for standing in society, and +abundant prerequisites for distinction. + +There is the most delicate shade of difference between civility and +intrusiveness, familiarity and common-place, pleasantry and sharpness, +the natural and the rude, gaiety and carelessness; hence the +inconveniences of society, and the errors of its members. To define +well in conduct these distinctions, is the great art of a man of the +world. It is easy to know what to do; the difficulty is to know what to +avoid. + +Long usage—a sort of moral magnetism, a tact acquired by frequent and +long associating with others—alone give those qualities which keep one +always from error, and entitle him to the name of a thorough gentleman. + +A young man upon first entering into society should select those +persons who are most celebrated for the propriety and elegance of their +manners. He should frequent their company and imitate their conduct. +There is a disposition inherent, in all, which has been noticed by +Horace and by Dr. Johnson, to imitate faults, because they are more +readily observed and more easily followed. There are, also, many +foibles of manner and many refinements of affectation, which sit +agreeably upon one man, which if adopted by another would become +unpleasant. There are even some excellences of deportment which would +not suit another whose character is different. For successful imitation +in anything, good sense is indispensable. It is requisite correctly to +appreciate the natural differences between your model and yourself, and +to introduce such modifications in the copy as may be consistent with +it. + +Let not any man imagine, that he shall easily acquire these qualities +which will constitute him a gentleman. It is necessary not only to +exert the highest degree of art, but to attain also that higher +accomplishment of concealing art. The serene and elevated dignity which +mark that character, are the result of untiring and arduous effort. +After the sculpture has attained the shape of propriety, it remains to +smooth off all the marks of the chisel. “A gentleman,” says a +celebrated French author, “is one who has reflected deeply upon all the +obligations which belong to his station, and who has applied himself +ardently to fulfil them with grace.” + +Polite without importunity, gallant without being offensive, attentive +to the comfort of all; employing a well-regulated kindness, witty at +the proper times, discreet, indulgent, generous, he exercises, in his +sphere, a high degree of moral authority; he it is, and he alone, that +one should imitate. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. +LETTERS. + + +Always remember that the terms of compliment at the close of a +letter—“I have the honour to be your very obedient servant,” etc. are +merely forms—“signifying nothing.” Do not therefore avoid them on +account of pride, or a dislike to the person addressed. Do not presume, +as some do, to found expectations of favour or promotion from great men +who profess themselves your obliged servant. + +In writing a letter of business it is extremely vulgar to use satin or +glazed gold-edged paper. Always employ, on such occasions, plain +American paper. Place the date at the top of the page, and if you +please, the name of the person at the top also, just above the ‘Sir;’ +though this last is indifferent. + +In letters to gentlemen always place the date at the end of the letter, +below his name. Use the best paper, but not figured, and never fail to +enclose it in an envelope. Attention to these matters is indispensable. + +To a person whom you do not know well, say Sir, not ‘Dear Sir.’ It +formerly was usual in writing to a distinguished man to employ the form +‘Respected Sir,’ or something of the kind. This is now out of fashion. + +There are a great many forms observed by the French in their letters, +which are necessary to be known before addressing one of that nation. +You will find them in their books upon such subjects, or learn them +from your French master. One custom of theirs is worthy of adoption +among us: to proportion the distance between the ‘Sir’ and the first +line of the letter, to the rank of the person to whom you write. Among +the French to neglect attending to this would give mortal offence. It +obtains also in other European nations. When the Duke of Buckingham was +at the court of Spain, some letters passed between the Spanish minister +Olivez and himself,—the two proudest men on earth. The Spaniard wrote a +letter to the Englishman, and put the ‘Monsieur’ on a line with the +beginning of his letter. The other, in his reply, placed the ‘Monsieur’ +a little below it. + +A note of invitation or reply is always to be enclosed in an envelope. + +Wafers are now entirely exploded. A letter of business is sealed with +red wax, and marked with some common stamp. Letters to gentlemen demand +red wax sealed with your arms. In notes to ladies employ coloured wax, +but not perfumed. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. +VISITS. + + +Of visits there are various sorts; visits of congratulation, visits of +condolence, visits of ceremony, visits of friendship. To each belong +different customs. + +A visit and an insult must be always returned. + +Visits of ceremony should be very short. Go at some time when business +demands the employment of every moment. In visits of friendship adopt a +different course. + +If you call to see an acquaintance at lodgings, and cannot find any one +to announce you, you knock very lightly at the door, and wait some time +before entering. If you are in too great a hurry, you might find the +person drawing off a night-cap. + +Respectable visitors should be received and treated with the utmost +courtesy. But if a tiresome fellow, after wearying all his friends, +becomes weary of himself, and arrives to bestow his tediousness upon +you, pull out your watch with restlessness, talk about your great +occupations and the value of time. Politeness is one thing; to be made +a convenience of is another. + +The style of your conversation should always be in keeping with the +character of the visit. You must not talk about literature in a visit +of condolence, nor about political economy in a visit of ceremony. + +When a lady visits you, upon her retiring, you offer her your arm, and +conduct her to her carriage. If you are visiting at the same time with +another lady, you should take leave at the same time, and hand her into +her carriage. + +After a hall, a dinner, or a concert, you visit during the week. + +Pay the first visit to a friend just returned from a voyage. + +Annual visits are paid to persons with whom you have a cool +acquaintance, They visit you in the autumn, you return a card in the +spring. + +In paying a visit under ordinary circumstances, you leave a single +card. If there be residing in the family, a married daughter, an +unmarried sister, a transient guest, or any person in a distinct +situation from the mistress of the house, you leave two cards, one for +each party. If you are acquainted with only one member of a family, as +the husband, or the wife, and you wish to indicate that your visit is +to both, you leave two cards. Ladies have a fashion of pinching down +one corner of a card to denote that the visit is to only one of two +parties in a house, and two corners, or one side of the card, when the +visit is to both; but this is a transient mode, and of dubious +respectability. + +If, in paying a morning visit, you are not recognized when you enter, +mention your name immediately. If you call to visit one member, and you +find others only in the parlour, introduce yourself to them. Much +awkwardness may occur through defect of attention to this point. + +When a gentleman is about to be married, he sends cards, a day or two +before the event, to all whom he is in the habit of visiting. These +visits are never paid in person, but the cards sent by a servant, at +any hour in the morning; or the gentleman goes in a carriage, and sends +them in. After marriage, some day is appointed and made known to all, +as the day on which he receives company. His friends then all call upon +him. Would that this also were performed by cards! + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. +APPOINTMENTS AND PUNCTUALITY. + + +When you make an appointment, always be exact in observing it. In some +places, and on some occasions, a quarter of an hour’s _grace_ is given. +This depends on custom, and it is always better not to avail yourself +of it. In Philadelphia it is necessary to be punctual to a second, for +there everybody breathes by the State-house clock If you make an +appointment to meet anywhere, your body must be in a right line with +the frame of the door at the instant the first stroke of the great +clock sounds. If you are a moment later, your character is gone. It is +useless to plead the evidence of your watch, or detention by a friend. +You read your condemnation in the action of the old fellows who, with +polite regard to your feelings, simultaneously pull out their vast +chronometers, as you enter. The tardy man is worse off than the +murderer. _He_ may be pardoned by one person, (the Governor); the +unpunctual is pardoned by none. _Haud inexpectus loquor._ + +If you make an appointment with another at your own house, you should +be invisible to the rest of the world, and consecrate your time solely +to him. + +If you make an appointment with a lady, especially if it be upon a +promenade, or other public place, you must be there a little before the +time. + +If you accept an appointment at the house of a public officer, or a man +of business, be very punctual, transact the affair with despatch, and +retire the moment it is finished. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. +DINNER. + + +The hour of dinner has been said, by Dr. Johnson, to be the most +important hour in civilized life. The etiquette of the dinner-table has +a prominence commensurate with the dignity of the ceremony. Like the +historian of Peter Bell, we commence at the commencement, and thence +proceed to the moment when you take leave officially, or vanish unseen. + +In order to dine, the first requisite is—to be invited. The length of +time which the invitation precedes the dinner is always proportioned to +the grandeur of the occasion, and varies from two days to two weeks. To +an invitation received less than two days in advance, you will lose +little by replying in the negative, for as it was probably sent as soon +as the preparations of the host commenced, you may be sure that there +will be little on the table fit to eat. Those abominations, y’clept +“plain family dinners,” eschew like the plague. + +You reply to a note of invitation immediately, and in the most direct +and unequivocal terms. If you accept, you arrive at the house +rigorously at the hour specified. It is equally inconvenient to be too +late and to be too early. If you fall into the latter error, you find +every thing in disorder; the master of the house is in his +dressing-room, changing his waistcoat; the lady is still in the pantry; +the fire not yet lighted in the parlour. If by accident or +thoughtlessness you arrive too soon, you may pretend that you called to +inquire the exact hour at which they dine, having mislaid the note, and +then retire to walk for an appetite. If you are too late, the evil is +still greater, and indeed almost without a remedy. Your delay spoils +the dinner and destroys the appetite and temper of the guests; and you +yourself are so much embarrassed at the inconvenience you have +occasioned, that you commit a thousand errors at table. If you do not +reach the house until dinner is served, you had better retire to a +restaurateurs, and thence send an apology, and not interrupt the +harmony of the courses by awkward excuses and cold acceptances. + +When the guests have all entered, and been presented to one another, if +any delay occurs, the conversation should be of the lightest and least +exciting kind; mere common-places about the weather and late arrivals. +You should not amuse the company by animated relations of one person +who has just cut his throat from ear to ear, or of another who, the +evening before, was choked by a tough beef-steak and was buried that +morning. + +When dinner is announced, the inviter rises and requests all to walk to +the dining-room. He then leads the way, that they may not be at a loss +to know whither they should proceed. Each gentleman offers his arm to a +lady, and they follow in solemn order. + +The great distinction now becomes evident between the host and the +guests, which distinction it is the chief effort of good breeding to +remove. To perform faultlessly the honours of the table, is one of the +most difficult things in society: it might indeed be asserted without +much fear of contradiction, that no man has as yet ever reached exact +propriety in his office as host, has hit the mean between exerting +himself too much and too little. His great business is to put every one +entirely at his ease, to gratify all his desires, and make him, in a +word, absolutely contented with men and things. To accomplish this, he +must have the genius of tact to perceive, and the genius of finesse to +execute; ease and frankness of manner; a knowledge of the world that +nothing can surprise; a calmness of temper that nothing can disturb, +and a kindness of disposition that can never be exhausted. When he +receives others, he must be content to forget himself; he must +relinquish all desire to shine, and even all attempts to please his +guests by conversation, and rather, do all in his power to let them +please one another. He behaves to them without agitation, without +affectation; he pays attention without an air of protection; he +encourages the timid, draws out the silent, and directs conversation +without Sustaining it himself. He who does not do all this, is wanting +in his duty as host; he who does, is more than mortal. + +When all are seated, the gentleman at the head of the table sends soup +to every one, from the pile of plates which stand at his right hand. He +helps the person at his right hand first, and at his left next, and so +through the whole. + +There are an immensity of petty usages at the dinner table, such as +those mentioned in the story of the Abbé Delille and the Abbé Cosson in +the Introduction to this volume, which it would be trifling and tedious +to enumerate hers, and which will be learned by an observing man after +assisting at two or three dinners. + +You should never ask a gentleman or lady at the table to help you to +any thing, but always apply to the servants. + +Your first duty at the table is to attend to the wants of the lady who +sits next to you, the second, to attend to your own. In performing the +first, you should take care that the lady has all that she wishes, yet +without appearing to direct your attention too much to her plate, for +nothing is more ill-bred than to watch a person eating. If the lady be +something of a _gourmande_, and in ever-zealous pursuit of the aroma of +the wing of a pigeon, should raise an unmanageable portion to her +mouth, you should cease all conversation with her, and look steadfastly +into the opposite part of the room. + +In France, a dish, after having been placed upon the table for +approval, is removed by the servants, and carved at a sideboard, and +after. wards handed to each in succession. This is extremely +convenient, and worthy of acceptation in this country. But +unfortunately it does not as yet prevail here. Carving therefore +becomes an indispensable branch of a gentleman’s education. You should +no more think of going to a dinner without a knowledge of this art, +than you should think of going without your shoes. The gentleman of the +house selects the various dishes in the order in which they should be +cut, and invites some particular one to perform the office. It is +excessively awkward to be obliged to decline, yet it is a thing too +often occurring in,his country. When you carve, you should never rise +from your seat. + +Some persons, in helping their guests, or recommending dishes to their +taste, preface every such action with an eulogy on its merits, and draw +every bottle of wine with an account of its virtues. Others, running +into the contrary extreme, regret or fear that each dish is not exactly +as it should be; that the cook, etc., etc. Both of these habits are +grievous errors. You should leave it to your guests alone to approve, +or suffer one of your intimate friends who is present, to vaunt your +wine. When you draw a bottle, merely state its age and brand, and of +what particular vintage it is. + +Do not insist upon your guests partaking of particular dishes, never +ask persons more than once, and never put anything by force upon their +plates. It is extremely ill-bred, though extremely common, to press +one to eat of anything. You should do all that you can to make your +guests feel themselves at home, which they never can do while you are +so constantly forcing upon their minds the recollection of the +difference between yourself and them. You should never send away your +own plate until all your guests have finished. + +Before the cloth is removed you do not drink wine unless with another. +If you are asked to take wine it is uncivil to refuse. When you drink +with another, you catch the person’s eye and bow with politeness. It is +not necessary to say anything, but smile with an air of great kindness. + +Some one who sits near the lady of the house, should, immediately upon +the removal of the soup, request the honor of drinking wine with her, +which movement is the signal for all the others. If this is not done, +the master of the house should select some lady. _He_ never asks +gentlemen, but they ask him; this is a refined custom, attended to in +the best company. + +If you have drunk with every one at the table, and wish more wine, you +must wait till the cloth is removed. The decanter is then sent round +from the head of the table, each person fills his glass, and all the +company drinks the Health of all the company. It is enough if you bow +to the master and mistress of the house, and to your opposite +neighbour. After this the ladies retire. Some one rises to open the +door for them, and they go into the parlour, the gentlemen remaining to +drink more wine. + +After the ladies have retired, the service of the decanters is done. +The host draws the bottles which have been standing in a wine cooler +since the commencement of the dinner. The bottle goes down the left +side and up the right, and the same bottle never passes twice. If you +do not drink, always pass the bottle to your neighbour. + +At dinner never call for ale or porter; it is coarse, and injures the +taste for wine. + +It was formerly the custom to drink _porter_ with cheese. One of the +few real improvements introduced by the “Napoleon of the realms of +fashion” was to banish this tavern liquor and substitute _port._ The +dictum of Brummell was thus enunciated: “A gentleman never _malts_, he +_ports._” + +A gentleman should always express his preference for some one sort of +wine over others; because, as there is always a natural preference for +one kind, if you say that you are indifferent, you show that you are +not accustomed to drink wines. Your preference should not of course be +guided by your real disposition; if you are afflicted by nature with a +partiality for port, you should never think of indulging it except in +your closet with your chamber-door locked. The only index of choice is +fashion;—either permanent fashion (if the phrase may be used), or some +temporary fashion created by the custom of any individual who happens +to rule for a season in society. Port was drunk by our ancestors, but +George the Fourth, upon his accession to the regency, announced his +royal preference for sherry. It has since been fashionable to like +sherry. This is what we call a _permanent_ fashion. + +Champagne wine is drunk after the removal of the first cloth; that is +to say, between the meats and the dessert. One servant goes round and +places before each guest a proper-shaped glass; another follows and +fills them, and they are immediately drunk. Sometimes this is done +twice in succession. The bottle does not again make its appearance, and +it would excite a stare to ask at a later period for a glass of +champagne wine. + +If you should happen to be blessed with those rely nuisances, children, +and should be entertaining company, never allow them to be brought in +after dinner, unless they are particularly asked for, and even then it +is better to say they are at school. Some persons, with the intention +of paying their court to the father, express great desire to see the +sons; but they should have some mercy upon the rest of the party, +particularly as they know that they themselves would be the most +disturbed of all, if their urgent entreaty was granted. + +Never at any time, whether at a formal or a familiar dinner party, +commit the impropriety of talking to a servant: nor ever address any +remark about one of them to one of the party. Nothing can be more +ill-bred. You merely ask for what you want in a grave and civil tone, +and wait with patience till your order is obeyed. + +It is a piece of refined coarseness to employ the fingers instead of +the fork to effect certain operations at the dinner table, and on some +other similar occasions. To know how and when to follow the fashion of +Eden, and when that of more civilized life, is one of the many points +which distinguish a gentleman from one not a gentleman; or rather, in +this case, which shows the difference between a man of the world, and +one who has not “the tune of the time.”* Cardinal Richelieu detected an +adventurer who passed himself off for a nobleman, by his helping +himself to olives with a fork. He might have applied the test to a vast +many other things. Yet, on the other hand, a gentleman would lose his +reputation, if he were to take up a piece of sugar with his fingers and +not with the sugar-tongs. + +* Shakspeare + + +It is of course needless to say that your own knife should never be +brought near to the butter, or salt, or to a dish of any kind. If, +however, a gentleman should send his plate for anything near you, and a +knife cannot be obtained immediately, you may skillfully avoid all +censure by using _his_ knife to procure it. + +When you send your plate for anything, you leave your knife and fork +upon it, crossed. When you have done, you lay both in parallel lines on +one side. A render who occupies himself about greater matters, may +smile at this precept. It may, indeed, be very absurd, yet such is the +tyranny of custom, that if you were to cross your knife and fork when +you have finished, the most reasonable and strong-minded man at the +table could not help setting you down, in his own mind, as a low-bred +person. _Magis sequor quam probo._ + +The chief matter of consideration at the dinner table, as indeed +everywhere else in the life of a gentleman, is to be perfectly composed +and at his ease. He speaks deliberately, he performs the most important +act of the day as if he were performing the most ordinary. Yet there is +no appearance of trifling or want of gravity in his manner; he +maintains the dignity which is becoming on so vital an occasion. He +performs all the ceremonies, yet in the style of one who performs no +_ceremony_ at all. He goes through all the complicated duties of the +scene, as if he were “to the manner born.” + +Some persons, who cannot draw the nice distinction between too much and +too little, desiring to be particularly respectable, make a point of +appearing unconcerned and quite indifferent to enjoyment at dinner. +Such conduct not only exhibits a want of sense and a profane levity, +but is in the highest degree rude to your obliging host. He has taken a +great deal of trouble to give you pleasure, and it is your business to +be, or at least to appear, pleased. It is one thing, indeed, to stare +and wonder, and to ask for all the delicacies on the table in the style +of a person who had lived all his life behind a counter, but it is +quite another to throw into your manner the spirit and gratified air of +a man who is indeed not unused to such matters, but who yet esteems +them at their fall value. + +When the Duke of Wellington was at Paris, as commander of the allied +armies, he was invited to dine with Cambaceres, one of the most +distinguished statesmen and _gourmands_ of the time of Napoleon. In the +course of the dinner, his host having helped him to some particularly +_recherché_ dish, expressed a hope that he found it agreeable. “Very +good,” said the hero of Waterloo, who was probably speculating upon +what he would have done if Blucher had not come up: “Very good; but I +really do not care what I eat.” “Good God!” exclaimed Cambaceres,—as he +started back and dropped his fork, quite “frighted from his +propriety,”—“Don’t care what you eat! What _did_ you come here for, +then?” + +After the wine is finished, you retire to the drawing-room, where the +ladies are assembled; the master of the house rising first from the +table, but going out of the room last. If you wish to go before this, +you must vanish unseen. + +We conclude this chapter by a word of important counsel to the +host:—Never make an apology. + + + + +CHAPTER X. +TRAVELLING. + + +It is an extremely difficult affair to travel in a coach, with perfect +propriety. Ten to one the person next to you is an English nobleman +_incognito_; and a hundred to one, the man opposite to you is a brute +or a knave. To behave so that you may not be uncivil to the one, nor a +dupe to the other, is an art of some niceness. + +As the seats are assigned to passengers in the order in which they are +booked, you should send to have your place taken a day or two before +the journey, so that you may be certain of a back seat. It is also +advisable to arrive at the place of departure early, so that you assume +your place without dispute. + +When women appear at the door of the coach to obtain admittance, it is +a matter of some question to know exactly what conduct it is necessary +to pursue. If the women are servants, or persons in a low rank of life, +I do not see upon what ground of politeness or decency you are called +upon to yield your seat. _Etiquette_, and the deference due to ladies +have, of course, no operation in the case of such persons. +Chivalry—(and the gentleman is the legitimate descendant of the knight +of old)—was ever a devotion to rank rather than to sex. Don Quixotte, +or Sir Piercy Shafestone would not willingly have given place to +servant girls. And upon considerations of humanity and regard to +weakness, the case is no stronger. Such people have nerves considerably +more robust than you have, and are quite as capable of riding +backwards, or the top, as yourself. The only reason for _politeness_ in +the case is, that perhaps the other passengers are of the same standing +with the women, and might eject you from the window if you refuse to +give place. + +If _ladies_ enter—and a gentleman distinguishes them in an instant—the +case is altered. The sooner you move the better is it for yourself, +since the rest will in the end have to concede, and you will give +yourself a reputation among the party and secure a better seat, by +rising at once. + +The principle that guides you in society is politeness; that which +guides you in a coach is good humour. You lay aside all attention to +form, and all strife after effect, and take instead, kindness of +disposition and a willingness to please. You pay a constant regard to +the comfort of your. fellow-prisoners. You take care not to lean upon +the shoulder of your neighbour when you sleep. You are attentive not to +make the stage wait for you at the stopping-places. When the ladies get +out, you offer them your arm, and you do the same when the coachman is +driving rapidly over a rough place. You should make all the +accommodations to others, which you can do consistently with your own +convenience; for, after all, the individuals are each like little +nations; and as, in the one case, the first duty is to your country, so +in the other, the first duty is to yourself. + +Some surly creatures, upon entering a coach, wrap about their persons a +great coat of cloth, and about their minds a mantle of silence, which +are not thrown off during the whole journey. This is doing more harm to +themselves than to others. You should make a point of conversing with +an appearance of entire freedom, though with real reserve, with all +those who are so disposed. + +One purpose and pleasure of travelling is to gain information, and to +observe the various characters of persons. You will be asked by others +about the road you passed over, and it will be awkward if you can give +no account of it. Converse, therefore, with all. Relate amusing +stories, chiefly of other countries, and even of other times, so as not +to offend any one. If engaged in discussion—and a coach is almost the +only place where discussion should _not_ be avoided—state facts and +arguments rather than opinions. Never answer impudent questions-and +never ask them. + +At the meals which occur during a journey, you see beautiful +exemplification of the _dictum_ of Hobbes, “that war is the natural +state of man.” The entire scene is one of unintermitted war of every +person with every other person, with the viands, and with good manners. +You open your mouth only to admit edibles and to bellow to the waiters. +Your sole object is yourself. You drink wine without asking your +neighbour to join you; and if he should be so silly as to ask you to +hand him some specified dish, you blandly comply; but in the passage to +him, you transfer the whole of its contents to your own plate. There is +no halving in these matters. Rapacity, roaring, and rapidity are the +three requisites for dining during a journey. When you have resumed +your seat in the coach, you are as bland as a morning in spring. + +Never assume any unreal importance in a stage-coach, founded on the +ignorance of your fellows, and their inability to detect it. It is +excessively absurd, and can only gratify a momentary and foolish +vanity; for, whenever you might make use of your importance, you would +probably be at once discovered. There is an admirable paper upon this +point in one of Johnson’s Adventurers. + +The friendship which has subsisted between travellers terminates with +the journey. When you get out, a word, a bow, and the most unpleasant +act of life is finished and forgotten. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. +BALLS. + + +Invitations to a ball should be issued at least ten days in advance, in +order to give an opportunity to the men to clear away engagements; and +to women, time to prepare the artillery of their toilet. Cards of +invitation should be sent—not notes. + +Upon the entrance of ladies, or persons entitled to deference, the +master of the house precedes them across the room: he addresses +compliments to them, and will lose his life to procure them seats. + +While dancing with a lady whom you have never seen before, you should +not talk to her much. + +The master of the ceremonies must take care that every lady dances, and +press into service for that purpose these young gentlemen who are +hanging round the room like fossils. If desired by him to dance with a +particular lady you should refuse on no account. + +If you have no ear, that is, a false one, never dance. + +To usurp the seat of a person who is dancing is the height of +incivility. + +Never go to a public ball. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. +FUNERALS. + + +When any member of a family is dead, it is customary to send +intelligence of the misfortune to all who have been connected with the +deceased in relations of business or friendship. The letters which are +sent contain a special invitation to assist at the funeral. + +An invitation of this sort should never be refused, though, of course, +you do not send a reply, for no other reason that I know of, excepting +the impossibility of framing any formula of acceptance. + +You render yourself at the house an hour or two after the time +specified. If you were to sit long in the mournful circle you might be +rendered unfit for doing any thing for a week. + +Your dress is black, and during the time of waiting you compose your +visage into a “tristful ’haviour,” and lean in silent solemnity upon +the top of your cane, thinking about— last night’s party. This is a +necessary hypocrisy, and assists marvellously the sadness of the +ceremony. You walk in a procession with the others, your carriage +following in the street. The first places are yielded to the relations +of the deceased. + +The coffins of persons of distinction are carried in the hands of +bearers, who walk with their hats off. + +You walk with another, in seemly order, and converse in a low tone; +first upon the property of the defunct, and next upon the politics of +the day. You walk with the others into the church, where service is +said over the body. It is optional to go to the grave or not. When you +go away, you enter your carriage and return to your business or your +pleasures. + +A funeral in the morning, a ball in the evening,—“so runs the world +away.” + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. +SERVANTS. + + +Servants are a necessary evil. He who shall contrive to obviate their +necessity, or remove their inconveniences, will render to human comfort +a greater benefit than has yet been conferred by all the +useful-knowledge societies of the age. They are domestic spies, who +continually embarrass the intercourse of the members of a family, or +possess themselves of private information that renders their presence +hateful, and their absence dangerous. It is a rare thing to see persons +who are not controlled by their servants. Theirs, too, is not the only +kitchen cabinet which begins by serving and ends by ruling. + +If we judge from the frequency and inconvenience of an opposite course, +we should say that the most important precept to be observed is, never +to be afraid of your servants. We have known many ladies who, without +any reason in the world, lived in a state of perfect subjugation to +their servants, who were afraid to give a direction, and who submitted +to disobedience and insult, where no danger could be apprehended from +discharging them. + +If a servant offends you by any trifling or occasional omission of +duty, reprove the fault with mild severity; if the error be repeated +often, and be of a gross description, never hesitate, but discharge the +servant instantly, without any altercation of language. You cannot +easily find another who will serve you worse. + +As for those precautions which are ordinarily taken, to secure the +procurence of good servants, they are, without exception, utterly +useless. The author of the Rambler has remarked, that a written +_character_ of a servant is worth about as much as a discharge from the +Old Bailey. I never, but once, took any trouble to inquire what +reputation a servant had held in former situations. On that occasion, I +heard that I had engaged the very Shakespeare of menials,— Aristides +was not more honest,—Zeno more truth-telling,—nor Abdiel more faithful. +This fellow, after insulting me daily for a week, disappeared with my +watch and three pair of boots. + +Those offices which profess to recommend good domestics, are +“bosh,—nothing.” In nine cases out of ten, the keepers are in league +with the servants; and in the tenth, ignorance, dishonesty, or +carelessness will prevent any benefit resulting from,their +“intelligence.” All that you can do is, to take the most decent +creature who applies; trust in Providence, and lock every thing up. + +Never speak harshly, or superciliously, or hastily to a servant. There +are many little actions which distinguish, to the eye of the most +careless observer, a gentleman from one not a gentleman; but there is +none more striking than the manner of addressing a servant. Issue your +commands with gravity and gentleness, and in a reserved manner. Let +your voice be composed, but avoid a tone of familiarity or sympathy +with them. It is better in addressing them to use a higher key of +voice, and not to suffer it to fall at the end of a sentence. The best +bred man whom we ever had the pleasure of meeting, always employed, in +addressing servants, such forms of speech as these—“I’ll thank you for +so and so,”—“Such a thing, if you please,”—with a gentle tone, but +very elevated key. The perfection of manner, in this particular, is, to +indicate by your language, that the performance is a favour, and by +your tone that it is a matter of course. + +While, however, you practise the utmost mildness and forbearance in +your language, avoid the dangerous and common error of exercising too +great humanity in action. No servant, from the time of the first +Gibeonite downwards, has ever had too much labour imposed upon him; +while thousands have been ruined by the mistaken kindness of their +masters. + +Servants should always be allowed, and indeed directed, to go to church +on Sunday afternoon. For this purpose, dinner is served earlier on that +day than usual. If it can be accomplished, the servants should be +induced to attend the same church as the family with whom they live; +because there may be reason to fear that if they profess to go +elsewhere, they may not go to church at all; and the habit of wandering +about the streets with idlers, will speedily ruin the best servant that +ever stood behind a chair. + +Servants should be directed to announce visitors. This is always done +abroad, and is a convenient custom. + +Never allow a female servant to enter a parlour. If all the male +domestics are gone out, it is better that there should be no attendance +at all. + +Some ladies are in the habit of amusing their friends with accounts of +the difficulty of getting good servants, etc. This denotes decided ill +breeding. Such subjects should never be made topics of conversation. + +If a servant offends you by any grossness of conduct, never rebuke the +offence upon the spot, nor indeed notice it at all at the time; for you +cannot do it without anger, and without giving rise to a _scene._ +Prince Puckler Muskaw was, very properly, turned out of the Travellers’ +Club for throwing a fork at one of the waiters. + +In the house of another, or when there is any company present in your +own, never converse with the servants. This most vulgar, but not +uncommon, habit, is judiciously censured in that best of novels,—the +Zeluco of Dr. Moore. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. +FASHION. + + +Fashion is a tyranny founded only on assumption. The principle upon +which its influence rests, is one deeply based in the human heart, and +one which has long been observed and long practised upon in every +department of life. In the literary, the religious, and the political +world, it has been an assured and very profitable conclusion, that the +public, + +“Like women, born to be controlled, +Stoops to the forward and the bold.” + + +“Qui sibi fidit, dux regit examen,” is a maxim of universal truth. +Pococurante, in Candide, was admired for despising Homer and Michel +Angelo; he would have gained little distinction by praising them. The +judicious application of this rule to society, is the origin of +fashion. In despair of attaining greatness of quality, it founds its +distinction only on peculiarity. + +We have spoken elsewhere of those complex and very rare +accomplishments, whose union is requisite to constitute a gentleman. We +know of but one quality which is demanded for a man of +fashion,—impudence. An impudence (self-confidence “the wise it call”) +as impenetrable as the gates of Pandemonium—a coolness and +imperturbability of self-admiration, which the boaster in Spencer +might envy—a contempt of every decency, as such, and an utter +imperviousness to ridicule,—these are the amiable and dignified +qualities which serve to rear an empire over the weakness and cowardice +of men. + +To define the character of that which is changing even while we survey +it, is a task of no small difficulty. We imagine that there is only one +means by which it may be always described, viz., that it consists in an +entire avoidance of all that is natural and rational. Its essence is +affectation; effeminacy takes the place of manliness; drawling +stupidity, of wit; stiffness and hauteur, of ease and civility; and +self-illustration, of a decent and respectful regard to others. + +A man of fashion must never allow himself to be pleased. Nothing is +more decidedly _de mauvais ton_ than any expression of delight. He must +never laugh, nor, unless his penetration is very great, must he even +smile; for he might by ignorance smile at the wrong place or time. All +real emotion is to be avoided; all sympathy with the great or the +beautiful is to be shunned; yet the liveliest feeling may be exhibited +upon the death of a poodle-dog. + +At the house of an acquaintance, he must never praise, nor even look, +at the pictures, the carpets, the curtains, or the ottomans, because if +he did, it might be supposed that he was not accustomed to such things. + +About two years ago, it began to be considered improper to pay +compliments to women, because if they are not paid gracefully they are +awkward, and to pay them gracefully is difficult. At the present time +it is considered dangerous to a man’s pretensions to fashion, in +England, to speak to women at all. Women are voted bores, and are to be +treated with refined rudeness. + +There is no possible system of manners that will serve to exhibit at +once the uncivility and the high refinement which should characterize +the man of fashion. He must therefore have no manners at all. He must +behave with tame and passive insolence, never breaking into active +effrontery excepting towards unprotected women and clergymen. Persons +of no importance he does not see, and is not conscious of their +existence; those who have the same standing, he treats with easy scorn, +and he acknowledges the distinction of superiors only by patronizing +and protecting them. A man of fashion does not despise wealth; he +cannot but think _that_ valuable which procures to others the honour of +paying for his suppers. + +Fashion is so completely distinguished from good breeding, that it is +even opposed to it. It is in fact a system of refined vulgarity. What, +for example can be more vulgar than incessantly _talking_ about forms +and customs? About silver forks and French soup? A gentleman follows +these conventional habits; but he follows them as matters of course. He +looks upon them as the ordinary and essential customs of refined +society. French forks are to him things as indispensable as a +table-cloth; and he thinks it as unnecessary to insist upon the one as +upon the other. If he sees a person who eats with his knife, he +concludes that that person is ignorant of the usages of the world, but +he does not shriek and faint away like a Bond-street dandy. If he dines +at a table where there are no silver forks, he eats his dinner in +perfect propriety with steel, and exhibits, neither by manner nor by +speech, that he perceives any error. To be sure, he forms his own +opinion about the rank of his entertainer, but he leaves it to such +new-made gentry as Mr. Theodore Hook, in his vulgar fashionable novels, +to harangue about such delinquencies. The vulgarity of insisting upon +these matters is scarcely less offensive than the vulgarity of +neglecting them. Lady Frances Pelham is but one remove better than a +Brancton. + +A man of fashion never goes to the theatre; he is waiting for the +opera. + +He, of course, goes out of town in the summer; or, if he cannot afford +to do so, he merely closes his window-shutters, and appears to be gone. + +Fashion makes all great things little, and all little things great. + +It is commonly said, that it requires more wit to perform the part of +the fool in a farce than that of the master. Without intending any +offence to the fool by the comparison, we may remark, that qualities of +an elevated character are required for the support of the _role_ of a +man of fashion in the solemn farce of life. He must have invention, to +vary his absurdities when they cease to be striking; he must have wit +enough to obtain the reputation of a great deal more; and he must +possess tact to know when and where to crouch, and where and when to +insult. + +Brummel, whose career is one of the most extraordinary on record, must +have exercised, during the period of his social reign, many qualities +of conduct which rank among the highest endowments of our race. For an +obscure individual, without fortune or rank, to have conceived the idea +of placing himself at the head of society in a country the most +thoroughly aristocratic in Europe, relying too upon no other weapon +than well-directed insolence; for the same individual to have triumphed +splendidly over the highest and the mightiest—to have maintained a +contest with royalty itself, and to have come off victorious even in +that struggle—for such an one no ordinary faculties must have been +demanded. Of the sayings of Brummel which have been preserved, it is +difficult to distinguish whether they contain real wit, or are only so +sublimely and so absurdly impudent that they look like witty. + +We add here a few anecdotes of Brummel, which will serve to show, +better than any precepts, the style of conduct which a man of fashion +may pursue. + +When Brummel was at the height of his power, he was once, in the +company of some gentlemen, speaking of the Prince of Wales as a very +good sort of man, who behaved himself very decently, _considering +circumstances_; some one present offered a wager that he would not dare +to give a direction to this very good sort of man. Brummel looked +astonished at the remark, and declined accepting a wager upon such +point. They happened to be dining with the regent the next day, and +after being pretty well fortified. with wine, Brummel interrupted a +remark of the prince’s, by exclaiming very mildly and naturally, +“Wales, ring the bell!” His royal highness immediately obeyed the +command, and when the servant entered, said to him, with the utmost +coolness and firmness, “Show Mr. Brummel to his carriage.” The dandy +was not in the least dejected by his expulsion; but meeting the prince +regent, walking with a gentleman, the next day in the street, he did +not bow to him, but stopping the other, drew him aside and said, in a +loud whisper, “Who is that FAT FRIEND of ours?” It must be remembered +that the object of this sarcasm was at that time exceedingly annoyed by +his increasing corpulency; so manifestly so, that Sheridan remarked, +that “though the regent professed himself a Whig, he believed that in +his heart he was no friend to _new measures._” + +Shortly after this occurrence at Carlton-House, Brummel remarked to one +of his friends, that “he had half a mind to cut the young one, and +bring old George into fashion.” + +In describing a short visit which he had paid to a nobleman in the +country, he said, that he had only carried with him a night-cap and a +silver basin to spit in, “Because, you know, it is utterly impossible +to spit in clay.” + +Brummel was once present at a party to which he had not been invited. +After he had been some time in the room, the gentleman of the house, +willing to mortify him, went up to him and said that he believed that +there must be some mistake, as he did not recollect having had the +honour of sending him an invitation. “What is the name?” said the other +very drawlingly, at the same time affecting to feel in his waistcoat +pocket for a card. “Johnson,” replied the gentleman. “Jauhnson?” said +Brummel, “oh! I remember now that the name was Thaunson (Thompson); and +Jauhnson and Thaunson, Thaunson and Jauhnson, you know, are so much the +same kind of thing.” + +Brummel was once asked how much a year he thought would be required to +keep a single man in clothes. “Why, with tolerable economy,” said he, +“I think it might be done for £800.” + +He once went down to a gentleman’s house in the country, without having +been asked to do so. He was given to understand, the next morning, that +his absence would be more agreeable, and he took his departure. Some +one having heard of his discomfiture, asked him how he liked the +accommodations there. He replied coolly, that “it was a very decent +house to spend a single night in.” + +We have mentioned that this dreaded arbiter of modes had threatened +that he would put the prince regent out of fashion. Alas! for the peace +of the British monarch, this was not an idle boast. His dangerous rival +resolved in the unfathomable recesses of a mind capacious of such +things, to commence and to carry on a war whose terror and grandeur +should astound society, to administer to audacious royalty a lesson +which should never be forgotten, and finally to retire, when retire he +must, with mementos of his tremendous power around him, and with the +mightiest of the earth at his feet. Inventive and deliberate were the +counsels which he meditated; sublime and resolute was the conduct he +adopted. He decided, with an originality of genius to which the +conqueror of Marengo might have vailed, that the _neck_ of the foe was +the point at which the first fatal shaft of his excommunicating ire +should be hurled. With rapid and decisive energy he concentrated all +his powers for instantaneous action. He retired for a day to the +seclusion of solitude, to summon and to spur the energies of the most +self-reliant mind in Europe, as the lion draws back to gather courage +for the leap. As, like the lion, he drew back; so, like the lion, did +he spring forward upon his prey. At a ball given by the Duchess of +Devonshire, when the whole assembly were conversing upon his supposed +disgrace, and insulting by their malevolence one whom they had +disgusted by their adulation, Brummel suddenly stood in the midst of +them. Could it be indeed Brummel? Could it be mortal who thus appeared +with such an encincture of radiant glory about his neck? Every eye was +upon him, fixed in stupid admiration; every tongue, as it slowly +recovered from its speechless paralysis, faltered forth “what a +cravat!” What a cravat indeed! Hundreds that had, a moment before, +exulted in unwonted freedom, bowed before it with the homage of servile +adoration. What a cravat! There it stood; there was no doubting its +entity, no believing it an illusion. There it stood, smooth and stiff, +yet light and almost transparent; delicate as the music of Ariel, yet +firm as the spirit of Regulus; bending with the grace of Apollo’s +locks, yet erect with the majesty of the Olympian Jove: without a +wrinkle, without an indentation. What a cravat! The regent “saw and +shook;” and uttering a faint gurgle from beneath the wadded bag which +surrounded his royal thorax, he was heard to whisper with dismay, “D—n +him! what a cravat!” The triumph was complete. + +It is stated, upon what authority we know not, that his royal highness, +after passing a sleepless night in vain conjectures, despatched at an +early hour, one of his privy-counsellors to Brummel, offering _carte +blanche_ if he would disclose the secret of that mysterious cravat. But +the “_atrox animus Catonis_” disdained the bribe. He preferred being +supplicated, to being bought, by kings. “Go,” said he to the messenger, +with the spirit of Marius mantling in his veins, “Go, and tell _you_r +master that you have seen _his_ master.” + +For the truth of another anecdote, connected with this cravat, we have +indisputable evidence. A young nobleman of distinguished talents and +high pretensions as to fortune and rank, saw this fatal band, and eager +to advance himself in the rolls of fashion, retired to his chamber to +endeavour to penetrate the method of its construction. He tried every +sort of known, and many sorts of unknown stiffeners to accomplish the +end—paper and pasteboard, and wadding, shavings, and shingles, and +planks,—all were vainly experienced. Gargantua could not have exhibited +a greater invention of expedients than he did; but vainly. After a +fortnight of the closest application, ardour of study and anxiety of +mind combined, brought him to the brink of the grave. His mother having +ascertained the origin of his complaint, waited upon Brummel, who was +the only living man that could remove it. She implored him, by every +human motive, to say but one word, to save the life of her son and +prevent her own misery. But the tyrant was immoveable, and the young +man expired a victim of his sternness. + +When, at length, yielding to that strong necessity which no man can +control, Brummel was obliged, like Napoleon, to abdicate, the mystery +of that mighty cravat was unfolded. There was found, after his +departure to Calais, written on sheet of paper upon his table, the +following epigram of scorn: “STARCH IS THE MAN.” The cravat of Brummel +was merely—starched! Henceforth starch was introduced into every cravat +in Europe. + +Brummel still lives, an obscure consul in a petty European town. + +Physically there is something to command our admiration in the history +of a man who thus lays at his mercy all ranks of men,—the lofty and the +low, the great, the powerful and the vain: but morally and seriously, +no character is more despicable than that of the mere man of fashion, +Seeking nothing but notoriety, his path to that end is over the ruins +of all that is worthy in our nature. He knows virtue only to despise +it; he makes himself acquainted with human feelings only to outrage +them. He commences his career beyond the limits of decency, and ends it +far in the regions of infamy. Feared by all and respected by none, +hated by his worshippers and despised by himself, he rules,—an object +of pity and contempt: and when his power is past, his existence is +forgotten; he lives on in an, oblivion which is to him worse than +death, and the stings of memory goad him to the grave. + +The devotee of fashion is a trifler unworthy of his race; the _mere_ +gentleman is a character which may in time become somewhat tiresome; +there is a just mean between the two, where a better conduct than +either is to be found. It is that of a man who, yielding to others, +still maintains his self-respect, and whose concessions to folly are +controlled by good sense; who remembers the value of trifles without +forgetting the importance of duties, and resolves so to regulate his +conduct that neither others may be offended by his stiffness, nor +himself have to regret his levity. + +Live therefore among men—to conclude our homily after the manner of +Quarles—live therefore among men, like them, yet not disliking thyself; +and let the hues of fashion be reflected from thee, but let them not +enter and colour thee within. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. +MISCELLANEOUS. + + +There is nothing more ill bred in the world than continual talking +about good breeding. + +You should never employ the word “_genteel_;” the proper word is +“_respectable._” + +If you are walking down the street with another person on your arm, and +stop to say something to one of your friends, do not commit the too +common and most awkward error of introducing such persons to one +another. Never introduce morning visitors, who happen to meet in your +parlour without being acquainted. If _you_ should be so introduced, +remember that the acquaintance afterwards goes for nothing: you have +not the slightest right to expect that the other should ever speak to +you. + +If you wish to be introduced to a lady, you must always have her +consent previously asked; this formality it is not necessary to observe +in the case of gentlemen alone. + +Presents are the gauge of friendship. They also serve to increase it, +and give it permanence. + +Among friends presents ought to be made of things of small value; or, +if valuable, their worth should be derived from the style of the +workmanship, or from some accidental circumstance, rather than from the +inherent and solid richness. Especially never offer to a lady a gift of +great cost: it is in the highest degree indelicate, and looks as if you +were desirous of placing her under an obligation to you, and of buying +her good will. The gifts made by ladies to gentlemen are of the most +refined nature possible: they should be little articles not purchased, +but deriving a priceless value as being the offspring of their gentle +skill; a little picture from their pencil, or a trifle from their +needle. + +To persons much your superiors, or gentlemen whom you do not know +intimately, there is but one species of appropriate present—game. + +If you make a present, and it is praised by the receiver, you should +not yourself commence undervaluing it. If one is offered to you, always +accept it; and however small it may be, receive it with civil and +expressed thanks, without any kind of affectation. Avoid all such +deprecatory phrases, as “I fear I rob you,” etc. + +To children, the only presents which you offer are sugar-plums and +bon-bons. + +Avoid the habit of employing French words in English conversation; it +is in extremely bad taste to be always employing such expressions as +_ci-devant_, _soi-disant_, _en masse_, _couleur de rose_, etc. Do not +salute your acquaintances with _bon jour_, nor reply to every +proposition, _volontiers._ + +In speaking of French cities and towns, it is a mark of refinement in +education to pronounce them rigidly according to English rules of +speech. Mr. Fox, the best French scholar, and one of the best bred men +in England, always sounded the x in _Bourdeaux_, and the s in Calais, +and on all occasions pronounced such names just as they are written. + +In society, avoid having those peculiar preferences for some subjects, +which are vulgarly denominated. “_hobby horses._” They make your +company a _bore_ to all your friends; and some kind-hearted creature +will take advantage of them and _trot_ you, for the amusement of the +company. + +A certain degree of reserve, or the appearance of it, should be +maintained in your intercourse with your most intimate friends. To +ordinary acquaintances retain the utmost reserve—never allowing them to +read your feelings, not, on the other hand, attempting to take any +liberties with them. Familiarity of manner is the greatest vice of +society. “Ah! allow me, my dear fellow,” says a rough voice, and at the +same moment a thumb and finger are extended into my snuff-box, which, +in removing their prey drop half of it upon my clothes,—I look up, and +recognize a person to whom I was introduced by mistake last night at +the opera. I would be glad to have less fellowship with such _fellows._ +In former times great philosophers were said to have demons for +familiars,—thereby indicating that a familiar man is the very devil. + +Remember, that all deviations from prescribed forms, on common +occasions, are vulgar; such as sending invitations, or replies, couched +in some unusual forms of speech. Always adhere to the immemorial +phrase,—“Mrs. X. requests the honour of Mr, Y.’s company,” and “Mr. Y. +has the honour of accepting Mrs. X.’s polite invitation.” Never +introduce persons with any outlandish or new-coined expressions; but +perform the operation with mathematical precision—“Mr. A., Mr. A’; Mr. +A’, Mr. A.” + +When two gentlemen are walking with a lady in the street, they should +not be both upon the same side of her, but one of them should walk upon +the outside and the other upon the inside. + +When you walk with a lady, even if the lady be young and unmarried, +offer your arm to her. This is always done in France, and is practised +in this country by the best bred persons. To be sure, this is done only +to married women in France, because unmarried women never walk alone +with gentlemen, but as in America the latter have the same freedom as +the former, this custom should here be extended to them. + +If you are walking with a woman who has your arm, and you cross the +street, it is better not to disengage your arm, and go round upon the +outside. Such effort evinces a palpable attention to form, and _that_ +is always to be avoided. + +A woman should never take the arms of two men, one being upon either +side; nor should a man carry a woman upon each arm. The latter of these +iniquities is practised only in Ireland; the former perhaps in +Kamskatcha. There are, to be sure, some cases in which it is necessary +for the protection of the women, that they should both take his arm, as +in coming home from a concert, or in passing, on any occasion, through +a crowd. + +When you receive company in your own house, you should never be much +dressed. This is a circumstance of the first importance in good +breeding. + +A gentleman should never use perfumes; they are agreeable, however, +upon ladies. + +Avoid the use of proverbs in conversation, and all sorts of cant +phrases. This error is, I believe, censured by Lord Chesterfield, and +is one of the most offensively vulgar things which a person can commit. +We have frequently been astonished to hear such a slang phrase as “the +whole hog” used by persons who had pretensions to very superior +standing. We would be disposed to apply to such an expression a +criticism of Dr. Johnson’s, which rivals it in Coarseness: “It has not +enough salt to keep it from stinking, enough wit to prevent its being +offensive.” We do not wish to advocate any false refinement, or to +encourage any cockney delicacy: but we may be decent without being +affected. The stable language and raft humour of Crockett and Downing +may do very well to amuse one in a morning paper, but it exhibits +little wit and less good sense to adopt them in the drawing-room. This +matter should be “reformed altogether.” + +If a plate be sent to you, at dinner, by the master or mistress of the +house, you should always take it, without offering it to all your +neighbours as was in older times considered necessary. The spirit of +antique manners consisted in exhibiting an attention to ceremony; the +spirit of modern manners consists in avoiding all possible appearance +of form. The old custom of deferring punctiliously to others was +awkward and inconvenient. For, the person, in favor of whom the +courtesy was shown, shocked at the idea of being exceeded in +politeness, of course declined it, and a plate was thus often kept +vibrating between two bowing mandarins, till its contents were cold, +and the victims of ceremony were deprived of their dinner. In a case +like this, to reverse the decision which the host has made as to the +relative standing of his guests, is but a poor compliment to him, as it +seems to reprove his choice, and may, besides, materially interfere +with his arrangements by rendering _unhelped_ a person whom he supposes +attended to. + +The same avoidance of too much attention to yielding place is proper in +most other cases. Shenstone, in some clever verses, has ridiculed the +folly; and Goldsmith, in his “Vicar,” has censured the inconvenience, +of such outrageous formality. These things are now managed better. One +person yields and another accepts without any controversy. + +When you are helped to anything at a dinner table, do not wait, with +your plate untouched, until others have begun to eat. This stiff-piece +of mannerism is often occurring in the country, and indeed among all +persons who are not thoroughly bred. As soon as your plate is placed +before you, you should take up your knife and arrange the table +furniture around you, if you do not actually eat. + +As to the instruments by which the operation of dining is conducted, it +is a matter of much consequence that entire propriety should be +observed as to their use. We have said nothing about the use of silver +forks, because we do not write for savages; and where, excepting among +savages, shall we find any who at present eat with other than a French +fork?. There are occasionally to be found some ancients, gentlemen of +the old school, as it is termed, who persist in preferring steel, and +who will insist on calling for a steel fork if there is none on the +table. They consider the modem custom an affectation, and deem that all +affectation should be avoided. They tread upon the pride of Plato, with +more pride. There is often affectation in shunning affectation. It is +better in things not material to submit to the established habits, +especially when, as in the present case, the balance of convenience is +decidedly on the part of fashion. The ordinary custom among well bred +persons, is as follows:—soup is taken with a spoon. Some foolish +_fashionables_ employ a fork! They might as well make use of a +broomstick. The fish which follows is eaten with a fork, a knife not +being used at all. The fork is held in the right hand, and a piece of +bread in the left. For any dish in which cutting is not indispensable, +the same arrangement is correct. When you have upon your plate, before +the dessert, anything partially liquid, or any sauces, you must not +take them up with a knife, but with a piece of bread, which is to be +saturated with the juices, and then lifted to the mouth. If such an +article forms part of the dessert, you should eat it with a spoon. In +carving, steel instruments alone are employed. For fowls a peculiar +knife is used, having the blade short and the handle very long. For +fish a broad and pierced silver blade is used. + +A dinner—we allude to _dinner-parties_—in this country, is generally +despatched with too much hurry. We do not mean, that persons commonly +eat too fast, but that the courses succeed one another too +precipitately. Dinner is the last operation of the day, and there is no +subsequent business which demands haste. It is usually intended, +especially when there are no ladies, to sit at the table till nine, +ten, or eleven o’clock, and it is more agreeable that the _eating_ +should be prolonged through a considerable portion of the entire time. +The conveniences of digestion also require more deliberation, and it +would therefore not be unpleasant if an interval of a quarter of an +hour or half an hour were allowed to intervene between the meats and +the dessert. + +At dinner, avoid taking upon your plate too many things at once. One +variety of meat and one kind of vegetable is the _maximum._ When you +take another sort of meat, or any dish not properly a vegetable, you +always change your plate. + +The fashion of dining inordinately late in this country is foolish. It +is borrowed from England without any regard to the difference in +circumstances between the two nations. In London, the whole system of +daily duties is much later. The fact of parliament’s sitting during the +evening and not in the morning, tends to remove the active part of the +day to a much more advanced hour. When persons rise at ten or two +o’clock, it is not to be expected that they should dine till eight or +twelve in the evening. There is nothing of this sort in France. There +they dine at three, or earlier. We have known some fashionable dinners +in different cities in this country at so late an hour as eight or nine +o’clock. This is absurd, where the persons have all breakfasted at +eight in the morning. From four o’clock till five varies the proper +hour for a dinner party here. + +Never talk about politics at a dinner table or in a drawing room. + +When you are going into a company it is of advantage to run over in +your mind, beforehand, the topics of conversation which you intend to +bring up, and to arrange the manner in which you will introduce them. +You may also refresh your general ideas upon the subjects, and run +through the details of the few very brief and sprightly anecdotes which +you are going to repeat; and also have in readiness one or two +brilliant phrases or striking words which you will use upon occasion. +Further than this it is dangerous to make much preparation. If you +commit to memory long speeches with the design of delivering them, your +conversation will become formal, and you will be negligent of the +observations of your company. It will tend also to impair that habit of +readiness and quickness which it is necessary to cultivate in order to +be agreeable. + +You must be very careful that you do not repeat the same anecdotes or +let off the same good things twice to the same person. Richard Sharpe, +the “conversationist” as he was called in London, kept a regular book +of entry, in which he recorded where and before whom he had uttered +severally his choice sayings. The celebrated Bubb Doddington prepared a +manuscript book of original _facetiæ_, which he was accustomed to read +over when he expected any distinguished company, trusting to an +excellent memory to preserve him from iteration. + +If you accompany your wife to a ball, be very careful not to dance with +her. + +The lady who gives a ball dances but little, and always selects her +partners. + +If you are visited by any company whom you wish to drive away forever, +or any friends whom you wish to alienate, entertain them by reading to +them your own productions. + +If you ask a lady to dance, and she is engaged, do not prefer a request +for her hand at the next set after that, because she may be engaged for +that also, and for many more; and you would have to run through a long +list of interrogatories, which would be absurd and awkward. + +A gentleman must not expect to shine in society, even the most +frivolous, without a considerable stock of knowledge. He must be +acquainted with facts rather than principles. He needs no very sublime +sciences; but a knowledge of biography and literary history, of the +fine arts, as painting, engraving, music, etc., will be of great +service to him. + +Some men are always seen in the streets with an umbrella under their +arm. Such a foible may be permitted to such men as Mr. Southey and the +Duke of Wellington: but in ordinary men it looks like affectation, and +the monotony is exceedingly _boring_ to the sight. + +To applaud at a play is not _fashionable_; but it is _respectable_ to +evince by a gentle concurrence of one finger and a hand that you +perceive and enjoy a good stroke in an actor. + +If you are at a concert, or a private musical party, never beat time +with your feet or your cane. Nothing is more unpleasant. + +Few things are more agreeable or more difficult, than to relate +anecdotes with entire propriety. They should be introduced gracefully, +have fit connexion with the previous remarks, and be in perfect keeping +with the company, the subject and the tone of the conversation; they +should be short, witty and eloquent, and they should be new but not +far-fetched. + +In rapid and eager discourse, when persons are excited and impatient, +as at a ball or in a promenade, repeat nothing but the spirit and soul +of a story, leaping over the particulars. There are however many places +and occasions in which you may bring out the details with advantage, +precisely, but not tediously. When you repeat a true story be always +extremely exact. Mem. Not to forget the point of your story, like most +narrators. + +When you are telling a flat anecdote by mistake, laugh egregiously, +that others may do the same: when you repeat a spirited and striking +bon mot, be grave and composed, in order that others may not be the +same. + +For one who has travelled much, to hit the proper medium between too +much reserve and too much intrusion, on the subject of his adventures, +is not easy. Such a person is expected to give amusement by pleasant +histories of his travels, and it is agreeable that he should do so, yet +with moderation; he should not reply to every remark by a memoir, +commencing, “When I was in Japan.” + +Rampant witticisms which require one to laugh, are apt to grow +fatiguing: it is better to have a sprightly and amusing vein running +through your conversation, which, betraying no effort, allows one to be +grave without offence, or to smile without pain. + +Punning is now decidedly out of date. It is a silly and displeasing +thing, when it becomes a habit. Some one has called it the wit of +fools. It is within the reach of the most trifling, and is often used +by them to puzzle and degrade the wise. Whatever may be its merits, it +is now out of fashion. + +It is respectable to go to church once on Sunday. When you are there, +behave with decency. You should never walk in fashionable places on +Sunday afternoon. It is notoriously vulgar. If your health requires you +to take the air, you should seek some retired street. + +In conversation avoid such phrases as “My _dear_ sir or madam.” + +A gentleman is distinguished as much by his composure as by any other +quality. His exertions are always subdued, and his efforts easy. He is +never surprised into an exclamation or startled by anything. Throughout +life he avoids what the French call _scenes_, occasions of exhibition, +in which the vulgar delight. He of course has feelings, but he never +exhibits any to the world. He hears of the death of his pointer or the +loss of an estate with entire calmness when others are present. + +It is very difficult for a literary man to preserve the perfect manners +and exact semblance of a gentleman. He must be able to throw aside all +the qualities which authorship tends to stamp so deeply upon him, and +thoroughly to despise the cant of the profession. Yet this must be done +without any affectation. Upon the whole, unless he has rare tact, he +will please as much by going into company with all the marks of his +employment upon his manners, than by awkwardly attempting to throw off +his load. One would rather see a man with his fingers inked, than to +see him nervously striving to cover them with a tattered kid glove. As +to literary ladies, they make up their minds to sacrifice all present +and personal admiration for future and abiding renown. + +It is not considered fashionable to carry a watch. What has a +fashionable man to do with time? Besides he never goes into those +obscure parts of the town where there are no public clocks, and his +servant will tell him when it is time to dress for dinner. A gentleman +carries his watch in his pantaloons with a plain black ribbon attached. +It is only worthy of a shop-boy to put it in his waistcoat pocket. + +Custom allows to men the privilege of taking snuff, however unneat this +habit may appear. If you affect the “tangible smell,” always take it +from a box, and not from your waistcoat pocket or a paper. The common +opinion, that Napoleon took snuff from his pocket, (which fact, by the +way, is denied by Bourrienne,) has for ever driven this convenient +custom from the practice of gentlemen, for the same reason that Lord +Byron’s anti-neckcloth fashion has compelled every man of sense to bind +a cravat religiously about his throat. As to taking snuff from a paper, +it is vile. + +Women should abstain most scrupulously from tobacco, for nothing can be +more fatal to their divinity: they should at least avoid it until past +fifty;—that is to say, if a woman past fifty can anywhere be found. +Chewing is permitted only to galley-slaves and metaphysicians. + +It was a favourite maxim of Rivarol, “Do you wish to succeed? Cite +proper names.” Rivarol is dead in exile, having left behind him little +property and less reputation. Judging from all experience, if we were +to frame an extreme maxim, it should be, “If you wish to succeed never +cite a proper name.” It will make you agreeable and hated. Your +conversation will be listened to with interest, and your company +shunned with horror. You will obtain the reputation of a gossip and a +scandal-bearer, and you will soon be obliged either to purchase a razor +or apply for a passport. If you are holding a tete-a-tete with a +notorious Mrs. Candour, then, indeed, your tongue should be as sharp +and nimble as the forked lightning. You must beat her at her own +weapons, and convince her that it would be dangerous to traduce your +character to others. + +A bachelor is a person who enjoys everything and pays for nothing; a +married man is one that pays for everything and enjoys nothing. The one +drives a sulky through life, and is not expected to take care of any +one but himself: the other keeps a carriage, which is always too full +to afford him a comfortable seat. Be cautious then how you exchange +your sulky for a carriage. + +In ordinary conversation about persons employ the expressions _men_ and +_women_; _gentleman_ and _lady_ are _distinctive_ appellations, and not +to be used upon general occasions. + +You should say _forte-piano_, not _piano-forte_: and the _street door_, +not the _front door._ + +“A man may have virtue, capacity, and good conduct,” says La Bruyère, +“and yet be insupportable; the air and manner which we neglect, as +little things, are frequently what the world judges us by, and makes +them decide for or against us.” + +In your intercourse with the world you must take persons as they are, +and society as you find it. You must never oppose the one, nor attempt +to alter the other. Society is a harlequin stage, upon which you never +appear in your own dress nor without a mask. Keep your real +dispositions for your fireside, and your real character for your +private friend. In public, never differ from anybody, nor from +anything. The _agreeable_ man is one who _agrees._ + +THE END. + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAWS OF ETIQUETTE *** + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will +be renamed. + +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the +United States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part +of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm +concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, +and may not be used if you charge for an eBook, except by following +the terms of the trademark license, including paying royalties for use +of the Project Gutenberg trademark. 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