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diff --git a/old/56196-0.txt b/old/56196-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index b2d9a8c..0000000 --- a/old/56196-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12690 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Three Voyages of Captain Cook Round the -World. Vol. I. Being the First of the First, by James Cook and Joseph Banks and Dr. Hawkesworth - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Three Voyages of Captain Cook Round the World. Vol. I. Being the First of the First Voyage. - -Author: James Cook - Joseph Banks - Dr. Hawkesworth - -Release Date: December 17, 2017 [EBook #56196] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN COOK, VOL 1 *** - - - - -Produced by Sonya Schermann and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - Transcriber’s Note - - -When italics were used in the original book, the corresponding text has -been surrounded by _underscores_. Superscripted characters are preceded -by ^ and when more than one character is superscripted, they are -surrounded by {}. - -Some corrections have been made to the printed text. These are listed in -a second transcriber’s note at the end of the text. - -[Illustration: - - _Captain Cook._ - - _Drawn & Engraved by W. Bond, from the large Picture by George Dance - R.A._ - - _Published by Longman & C^o. London Sept^r. 6^{th}. 1821._ -] - - - - - THE - - THREE - - VOYAGES - - OF - - CAPTAIN JAMES COOK - - ROUND THE WORLD. - - COMPLETE - - In Seven Volumes. - - -------------- - - _WITH MAP AND OTHER PLATES._ - - -------------- - - VOL. I. - - BEING THE FIRST OF THE FIRST VOYAGE. - - -------------- - - LONDON: - - PRINTED FOR - LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, - PATERNOSTER-ROW. - - 1821. - - - - - LIFE - - OF - - CAPTAIN JAMES COOK. - - -------------- - - -THIS celebrated navigator was the son of a day-labourer, and born at -Marton, a village in Yorkshire, Nov. 3. 1728. At the age of thirteen he -was put to a school, where he learnt writing and arithmetic; after which -he was bound apprentice to a shopkeeper at Snaith, but on discovering an -inclination for the sea, his master gave up his indentures, and he -articled himself for three years to a ship-owner at Whitby. After -serving out his time diligently, he entered in 1755 on board the Eagle -sixty gun ship; and in 1759 he obtained a warrant as master of the -Mercury, in which ship he was present at the taking of Quebec, where he -made a complete draught of the channel and river of St. Laurence, which -chart was published. Mr. Cook was next appointed to the Northumberland, -then employed in the recapture of Newfoundland; and there also he made a -survey of the harbour and coasts. At the latter end of 1762 he returned -to England, and married a young woman of Barking; but early in the next -year he went again to Newfoundland, as surveyor, with Captain Graves, -and he afterwards acted in the same capacity under Sir Hugh Palliser. -While thus employed, he made an observation of an eclipse of the sun, -which he communicated to the Royal Society. It being determined to send -out astronomers to observe the transit of Venus in some part of the -South Sea, Mr. Cook was selected to command the Endeavour, a ship taken -up for that service; and accordingly he was promoted to the rank of -lieutenant, May 25. 1768. Our limits will not allow of giving the -details of this interesting voyage; and therefore we shall content -ourselves with stating, that the transit was observed to great advantage -at Otaheite; after which lieutenant Cook explored the neighbouring -islands, and then shaped his course for New Zealand, which he -circumnavigated, and thus ascertained that it was not a continent. From -thence he sailed to New Holland, or, as it is now called, New South -Wales, where he anchored in Botany Bay, April 28. 1770, an epoch of -great importance in the history of that part of the world. From hence he -sailed to New Guinea, and next to Batavia, where the ship being -refitted, he returned to Europe, and arrived in the Downs, June 12. -1771. For his services on this occasion, Mr. Cook was promoted to the -rank of commander, and an account of his voyage was soon after published -by Dr. Hawkesworth. The interest excited hereby induced government to -send Captain Cook on another voyage of discovery to the southern -hemisphere, and he accordingly sailed with two ships, the Resolution, -commanded by himself, and the Adventure, by Captain Furneaux, April 9. -1772. After proceeding as far as 71° 10ʹ of south latitude, amidst -mountains of ice, and discovering some new islands, our voyagers -returned to England, July 30. 1775. The Resolution in this enterprize -lost only one man out of her whole complement, for which Captain Cook -was elected a member of the Royal Society, and afterwards the gold medal -was voted to him by the same learned body. He was also appointed a -post-captain, and promoted to a valuable situation in Greenwich -hospital. As the narrative of the former voyage had not given -satisfaction, the history of the second was drawn almost wholly from the -captain’s journals, and digested by Dr. Douglas, late bishop of -Salisbury. But the labours of Cook were not to end here. In July 1776 he -sailed again, to decide the long agitated question of a northern passage -to the Pacific Ocean. In this voyage he had two ships, the Resolution -and the Discovery; but after sailing as high as 74° 44ʹ N. the object -was considered impracticable; and on Nov. 26. 1778, the ships arrived at -the Sandwich islands. Here at first they were well received, but at -length the people of Owhyhee stole one of the boats, to recover which -Captain Cook went on shore, with the intention of getting into his -possession the person of the king; but in doing this a crowd assembled, -and the brave commander fell by a club, after which he was dispatched by -a dagger; and his body was carried off in triumph and devoured. This -melancholy event occurred in the morning of the 14th February, 1779. -Captain Cook left a widow and family; on the former a pension of 200_l._ -a year was settled by the king, and 25_l._ a-year on each of the -children. - - - - - CONTENTS - - OF - - _THE FIRST VOLUME._ - - -------------- - - FIRST VOYAGE. - - Page - - INTRODUCTION to the first Voyage 3 - - BOOK I. - - CHAP. I. - - The Passage from Plymouth to Madeira, with some Account of that 7 - Island - - CHAP. II. - - The Passage from Madeira to Rio de Janeiro, with some Account of 18 - the Country, and the Incidents that happened there - - CHAP. III. - - The Passage from Rio de Janeiro to the Entrance of the Strait of 44 - Le Maire, with a Description of some of the Inhabitants of - Terra del Fuego - - CHAP. IV. - - An Account of what happened in ascending a Mountain to search for 51 - Plants - - CHAP. V. - - The Passage through the Strait of Le Maire, and a further 59 - Description of the Inhabitants of Terra del Fuego, and its - Productions - - CHAP. VI. - - A general Description of the south-east Part of Terra del Fuego, 67 - and the Strait of Le Maire; with some Remarks on Lord Anson’s - Account of them, and Directions for the Passage westward, round - this Part of America, into the South Seas - - CHAP. VII. - - The Sequel of the Passage from Cape Horn to the newly discovered 74 - Islands in the South Seas, with a Description of their Figure - and Appearance.—Some Account of the Inhabitants, and several - Incidents that happened during the Course, and at the Ship’s - arrival among them - - CHAP. VIII. - - The Arrival of the Endeavour at Otaheite, called by Captain 84 - Wallis, King George the III.’s Island.—Rules established for - Traffic with the Natives, and an Account of several Incidents - which happened in a Visit to Tootahah and Toubourai Tamaide, - two Chiefs - - CHAP. IX. - - A Place fixed upon for an Observatory and Fort.—An Excursion into 93 - the Woods, and its Consequences.—The Fort erected.—A Visit from - several Chiefs on Board and at the Fort, with some Account of - the Music of the Natives, and the Manner in which they dispose - of their Dead - - CHAP. X. - - An Excursion to the eastward, an Account of several Incidents 102 - that happened both on Board and on Shore, and of the first - Interview with Oberea, the Person who, when the Dolphin was - here, was supposed to be Queen of the Island, with a - Description of the Fort - - CHAP. XI. - - The Observatory set up.—The Quadrant stolen, and Consequences of 113 - the Theft.—A Visit to Tootahah.—Description of a wrestling - Match.—European seeds sown.—Names given to our People by the - Indians - - CHAP. XII. - - Some Ladies visit the Fort with very uncommon Ceremonies.—The 126 - Indians attend Divine Service, and in the Evening exhibit a - most extraordinary spectacle.—Toubourai Tamaide falls into - Temptation - - CHAP. XIII. - - Another Visit to Tootahah, with various Adventures.—Extraordinary 134 - Amusement of the Indians, with Remarks upon it.—Preparations to - observe the Transit of Venus, and what happened in the mean - time at the Fort - - CHAP. XIV. - - The Ceremonies of an Indian Funeral particularly 144 - described.—General Observations on the Subject.—A Character - found among the Indians to which the Ancients paid great - Veneration.—A Robbery at the Fort, and its Consequences; with a - Specimen of Indian Cookery, and various Incidents - - CHAP. XV. - - An Account of the Circumnavigation of the Island, and various 157 - Incidents that happened during the Expedition; with a - Description of a Burying-place and Place of Worship, called a - Morai - - CHAP. XVI. - - An Expedition of Mr. Banks to trace the River.—Marks of 173 - subterraneous Fire.—Preparations for leaving the Island.—An - Account of Tupia - - CHAP. XVII. - - A particular Description of the Island; its Produce and 184 - Inhabitants; their Dress, Habitations, Food, Domestic Life and - Amusements - - CHAP. XVIII. - - Of the Manufactures, Boats, and Navigation of Otaheite 209 - - CHAP. XIX. - - Of the Division of Time in Otaheite; Numeration, Computation of 225 - Distance, Language, Diseases, Disposal of the Dead, Religion, - War, Weapons, and Government; with some general Observations - for the Use of future Navigators - - CHAP. XX. - - A Description of several other Islands in the Neighbourhood of 245 - Otaheite, with various Incidents; a Dramatic Entertainment; and - many Particulars relative to the Customs and Manners of the - Inhabitants - - BOOK II. - - CHAP. I. - - The Passage from Oteroah to New Zealand; Incidents which happened 274 - on going ashore there, and while the Ship lay in Poverty Bay - - CHAP. II. - - A Description of Poverty Bay, and the Face of the adjacent 289 - Country.—The Range from thence to Cape Turnagain, and back to - Tolaga; with some Account of the People and the Country, and - several Incidents that happened on that Part of the Coast - - CHAP. III. - - The Range from Tolaga to Mercury Bay, with an Account of many 314 - Incidents that happened both on board and ashore.—A Description - of several Views exhibited by the Country, and of the Heppahs, - or fortified Villages of the Inhabitants - - CHAP. IV. - - The Range from Mercury Bay to the Bay of Islands.—An Expedition 339 - up the River Thames.—Some Account of the Indians who inhabit - its Banks, and the fine Timber that grows there.—Several - Interviews with the Natives on different Parts of the Coast, - and a Skirmish with them upon an Island - - CHAP. V. - - Range from the Bay of Islands round North Cape to Queen 360 - Charlotte’s Sound; and a Description of that part of the Coast - - CHAP. VI. - - Transactions in Queen Charlotte’s Sound.—Passage through the 374 - Strait which divides the two Islands, and back to Cape - Turnagain.—Horrid Custom of the Inhabitants.—Remarkable Melody - of Birds.—A Visit to a Heppah, and many other Particulars - - - - - DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING - THE PLATES. - - - -------------- - - VOL. I. - - Portrait _to face the Title_. - - Map of the World _Page_ 1 - - Island of Otaheite 84 - - Harbour of Oopoa 254 - - A fortified Town at Tolaga 331 - - A natural Arch, or perforated Rock 331 - - Inside of a Hippah in New Zealand 332 - - VOL. II. - - Canoe of New Zealand _to face the Title_. - - VOL. III. - - Landing at Middleburgh, Friendly Isles _to face the Title_. - - Boats of the Friendly Isles 222 - - Resolution Bay, in the Marquesas 299 - - The Fleet of Otaheite at Opárre 318 - - VOL. IV. - - A View in the Island of Rotterdam _to face the Title_. - - View in the Island of New Caledonia 98 - - Christmas Sound Terra del Fuego 178 - - VOL. V. - - Christmas Harbour in Kerguelen’s Land _to face the Title_. - - View at Anamooka 301 - - VOL. VI. - - Canoe of the Sandwich Islands _to face the Title_. - - A Morai, at Otaheite 31 - - View at Huaheine 85 - - A Morai in Atooi 185 - - Inland View in Atooi 206 - - Natives of Oonolashka 466 - - VOL. VII. - - Summer and Winter Habitations at Kamtschatka _to face the Title_. - - Karakakooa, Owyhee 3 - - Town and Harbour of St. Peter, Kamtschatka 168 - -[Illustration: - - THE WORLD, - on - _MERCATOR’S PROJECTION_, - _Shewing_ the Courses _of_ - CAPTAIN COOK’S THREE VOYAGES. -] - - - - - AN - - ACCOUNT - - OF A - - VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, - - IN THE YEARS 1768, 1769, 1770, and 1771. - - BY - - LIEUTENANT JAMES COOK, - - COMMANDER OF HIS MAJESTY’S BARK THE ENDEAVOUR. - - - Drawn up from his Journal, - And from the Papers of Sir JOSEPH BANKS, Bart - - BY - - DR. HAWKESWORTH. - - - - - INTRODUCTION - - TO - - THE FIRST VOYAGE. - - -WITH Lieutenant Cook, in this voyage, embarked Joseph Banks, Esquire, a -gentleman possessed of considerable landed property in Lincolnshire. He -received the education of a scholar rather to qualify him for the -enjoyments than the labours of life; yet an ardent desire to know more -of Nature than could be learnt from books determined him, at a very -early age, to forego what are generally thought to be the principal -advantages of a liberal fortune, and to apply his revenue not in -procuring the pleasures of leisure and ease, but in the pursuit of his -favourite study, through a series of fatigue and danger, which, in such -circumstances, have very seldom been voluntarily incurred, except to -gratify the restless and insatiable desires of avarice or ambition. - -Upon his leaving the university of Oxford, in the year 1763, he crossed -the Atlantic, and visited the coasts of Newfoundland and Labradore. The -danger, difficulty, and inconvenience that attend long voyages are very -different in idea and experience; Mr. Banks, however, returned, -undiscouraged, from his first expedition; and when he found that the -Endeavour was equipping for a voyage to the South Seas, in order to -observe the Transit of Venus, and afterwards attempt farther -discoveries, he determined to embark in the expedition, that he might -enrich his native country with a tribute of knowledge from those which -have been hitherto unknown, and not without hope of leaving among the -rude and uncultivated nations that he might discover, something that -would render life of more value, and enrich them, perhaps, in a certain -degree, with the knowledge, or at least with the productions, of Europe. - -As he was determined to spare no expense in the execution of his plan, -he engaged Dr. Solander to accompany him in the voyage. This Gentleman, -by birth a Swede, was educated under the celebrated Linnæus, from whom -he brought letters of recommendation into England, and his merit being -soon known, he obtained an appointment in the British Museum, a public -institution, which was then just established; such a companion Mr. Banks -considered as an acquisition of no small importance, and, to his great -satisfaction, the event abundantly proved that he was not mistaken. He -also took with him two draftsmen, one to delineate views and figures, -the other to paint such subjects of natural history as might offer; -together with a secretary and four servants, two of whom were negroes. - -Mr. Banks kept an accurate and circumstantial journal of the voyage, -and, soon after I had received that of Captain Cook from the Admiralty, -was so obliging as to put it into my hands, with permission to take out -of it whatever I thought would improve or embellish the narrative. This -was an offer of which I gladly and thankfully accepted: I knew the -advantage would be great, for few philosophers have furnished materials -for accounts of voyages undertaken to discover new countries. The -adventurers in such expeditions have generally looked only upon the -great outline of Nature, without attending to the variety of shades -within, which give life and beauty to the piece. - -The papers of Captain Cook contained a very particular account of all -the nautical incidents of the voyage, and a very minute description of -the figure and extent of the countries he had visited, with the bearings -of the headlands and bays that diversify the coasts, the situation of -the harbours in which shipping may obtain refreshments, with the depth -of water wherever there were soundings; the latitudes, longitudes, -variation of the needle, and such other particulars as lay in his -department; and abundantly showed him to be an excellent officer, and -skilful navigator. But in the papers which were communicated to me by -Mr. Banks, I found a great variety of incidents which had not come under -the notice of Captain Cook, with descriptions of countries and people, -their productions, manners, customs, religion, policy, and language, -much more full and particular than were expected from a Gentleman whose -station and office naturally turned his principal attention to other -objects; for these particulars, therefore, besides many practical -observations, the Public is indebted to Mr. Banks. To Mr. Banks also the -Public is indebted for the designs of the engravings which illustrate -and adorn the account of this voyage, all of them, except the maps, -charts, and views of the coasts as they appear at sea, being copied from -his valuable drawings, and some of them from such as were made for the -use of the artists at his expense. - -As the materials furnished by Mr. Banks were so interesting and copious, -there arose an objection against writing an account of this voyage in -the person of the Commander, which could have no place with respect to -the others; the descriptions and observations of Mr. Banks would be -absorbed without any distinction, in a general narrative given under -another name: but this objection he generously over-ruled, and it, -therefore, became necessary to give some account of the obligations -which he has laid upon the Public and myself in this place. It is, -indeed, fortunate for mankind, when wealth and science, and a strong -inclination to exert the powers of both for purposes of public benefit, -unite in the same person; and I cannot but congratulate my country upon -the prospect of further pleasure and advantage from the same Gentleman, -to whom we are indebted for so considerable a part of this narrative. - - - - - AN - - ACCOUNT - - OF A - - VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, - - IN 1768, 1769, 1770, AND 1771. - - BOOK I. - - CHAP. I. - -THE PASSAGE FROM PLYMOUTH TO MADEIRA, WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF THAT ISLAND. - - -HAVING received my commission, which was dated the 25th of May, 1768, I -went on board on the 27th, hoisted the pennant, and took charge of the -ship, which then lay in the basin in Deptford Yard. She was fitted for -sea with all expedition; and stores and provisions being taken on board, -sailed down the river on the 30th of July, and on the 13th of August -anchored in Plymouth Sound. - -While we lay here waiting for a wind, the articles of war and the act of -parliament were read to the ship’s company, who were paid two months’ -wages in advance, and told that they were to expect no additional pay -for the performance of the voyage. - -On Friday, the 26th of August, the wind becoming fair, we got under -sail, and put to sea. On the 31st, we saw several of the birds which the -sailors call Mother Carey’s Chickens, and which they suppose to be the -forerunners of a storm; and on the next day we had a very hard gale, -which brought us under our courses, washed over-board a small boat -belonging to the boatswain, and drowned three or four dozen of our -poultry, which we regretted still more. - -On Friday, the 2d of September, we saw land between Cape Finister and -Cape Ortegal, on the coast of Gallicia, in Spain; and on the 5th, by an -observation of the sun and moon, we found the latitude of Cape Finister -to be 42° 53ʹ North, and its longitude 8° 46ʹ West, our first meridian -being always supposed to pass through Greenwich; variation of the needle -21° 4ʹ W. - -During this course, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander had an opportunity of -observing many marine animals, of which no naturalist has hitherto taken -notice; particularly a new species of the _Oniscus_, which was found -adhering to the _Medusa Pelagica_; and an animal of an angular figure, -about three inches long, and one thick, with a hollow passing quite -through it, and a brown spot on one end, which they conjectured might be -its stomach; four of these adhered together by their sides when they -were taken, so that at first they were thought to be one animal, but -upon being put into a glass of water they soon separated, and swam about -very briskly. These animals are of a new genus, to which Mr. Banks and -Dr. Solander gave the name of _Dagysa_, from the likeness of one species -of them to a gem: several specimens of them were taken, adhering -together sometimes to the length of a yard or more, and shining in the -water with very beautiful colours. Another animal, of a new genus, they -also discovered, which shone in the water with colours still more -beautiful and vivid, and which indeed exceeded in variety and brightness -any thing that we had ever seen: the colouring and splendour of these -animals were equal to those of an Opal, and from their resemblance to -that gem, the genus was called _Carcinium Opalinum_. One of them lived -several hours in a glass of salt water, swimming about with great -agility, and at every motion displaying a change of colours almost -infinitely various. We caught also among the rigging of the ship, when -we were at the distance of about ten leagues from Cape Finister, several -birds which have not been described by Linnæus; they were supposed to -have come from Spain, and our gentlemen called the species _Motacilla -velificans_, as they said none but sailors would venture themselves on -board a ship that was going round the world: one of them was so -exhausted, that it died in Mr. Banks’s hand, almost as soon as it was -brought to him. - -It was thought extraordinary that no naturalist had hitherto taken -notice of the _Dagysa_, as the sea abounds with them not twenty leagues -from the coast of Spain; but, unfortunately for the cause of science, -there are but very few of those who traverse the sea, that are either -disposed or qualified to remark the curiosities of which Nature has made -it the repository. - -On the 12th we discovered the islands of Porto Santo and Madeira, and on -the next day anchored in Funchiale road, and moored with the -stream-anchor: but, in the night, the bend of the hawser of the -stream-anchor slipped, owing to the negligence of the person who had -been employed to make it fast. In the morning the anchor was heaved up -into the boat, and carried out to the southward; but in heaving it -again, Mr. Weir, the master’s mate, was carried overboard by the -buoy-rope, and went to the bottom with the anchor; the people in the -ship saw the accident, and got the anchor up with all possible -expedition; it was, however, too late; the body came up intangled in the -buoy-rope, but it was dead. - -When the island of Madeira is first approached from the sea, it has a -very beautiful appearance; the sides of the hills being entirely covered -with vines almost as high as the eye can distinguish; and the vines are -green when every kind of herbage, except where they shade the ground, -and here and there by the sides of a rill, is entirely burnt up, which -was the case at this time. - -On the 13th, about eleven o’clock in the forenoon, a boat, which our -sailors call the product boat, came on board from the officers of -health, without whose permission no person is suffered to land from on -board a ship. As soon as this permission was obtained, we went on shore -at Funchiale, the capital of the island, and proceeded directly to the -house of Mr. Cheap, who is the English consul there, and one of the most -considerable merchants of the place. This gentleman received us with the -kindness of a brother, and the liberality of a prince; he insisted upon -our taking possession of his house, in which he furnished us with every -possible accommodation during our stay upon the island; he procured -leave for Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander to search the island for such -natural curiosities as they should think worth their notice; employed -persons to take fish and gather shells, which time would not have -permitted them to collect for themselves; and he provided horses and -guides to take them to any part of the country which they should choose -to visit. With all these advantages, however, their excursions were -seldom pushed farther than three miles from the town, as they were only -five days on shore; one of which they spent at home, in receiving the -honour of a visit from the governor. The season was the worst in the -year for their purpose, as it was neither that of plants nor insects; a -few of the plants, however, were procured in flower, by the kind -attention of Dr. Heberden, the chief physician of the island, and -brother to Dr. Heberden of London, who also gave them such specimens as -he had in his possession, and a copy of his Botanical Observations; -containing, among other things, a particular description of the trees of -the island. Mr. Banks inquired after the wood which has been imported -into England for cabinet work, and is here called Madeira mahogany: he -learnt that no wood was exported from the island under that name, but he -found a tree called by the natives Vigniatico, the _Laurus indicus_ of -Linnæus, the wood of which cannot easily be distinguished from mahogany. -Dr. Heberden has a book-case, in which the vigniatico and mahogany are -mixed, and they are no otherwise to be known from each other than by the -colour, which, upon a nice examination, appears to be somewhat less -brown in the vigniatico than the mahogany; it is, therefore, in the -highest degree probable, that the wood known in England by the name of -Madeira mahogany, is the vigniatico. - -There is great reason to suppose that this whole island was, at some -remote period, thrown up by the explosion of subterraneous fire, as -every stone, whether whole or in fragments, that we saw upon it, -appeared to have been burnt, and even the sand itself to be nothing more -than ashes: we did not, indeed, see much of the country, but the people -informed us that what we did see was a very exact specimen of the rest. - -The only article of trade in this island is wine, and the manner in -which it is made is so simple, that it might have been used by Noah, who -is said to have planted the first vineyard after the flood: the grapes -are put into a square wooden vessel, the dimensions of which are -proportioned to the size of the vineyard to which it belongs; the -servants then, having taken off their stockings and jackets, get into -it, and with their feet and elbows press out as much of the juice as -they can: the stalks are afterwards collected, and being tied together -with a rope, are put under a square piece of wood, which is pressed down -upon them by a lever with a stone tied to the end of it. The inhabitants -have made so little improvement in knowledge or art, that they have but -very lately brought all the fruit of a vineyard to be of one sort, by -engrafting their vines: there seems to be in mind as there is in matter, -a kind of _vis inertiæ_, which resists the first impulse to change. He -who proposes to assist the artificer or the husbandman by a new -application of the principles of philosophy, or the powers of mechanism, -will find, that his having hitherto done without them will be a stronger -motive for continuing to do without them still, than any advantage, -however manifest and considerable, for adopting the improvement. -Wherever there is ignorance there is prejudice; and the common people of -all nations are, with respect to improvements, like the parish poor of -England with respect to a maintenance, for whom the law must not only -make a provision, but compel them to accept it, or else they will be -still found begging in the streets. It was, therefore, with great -difficulty that the people of Madeira were persuaded to engraft their -vines, and some of them still obstinately refuse to adopt the practice, -though a whole vintage is very often spoiled by the number of bad grapes -which are mixed in the vat, and which they will not throw out, because -they increase the quantity of the wine: an instance of the force of -habit, which is the more extraordinary, as they have adopted the -practice of engrafting with respect to their chesnut-trees, an object of -much less importance, which, however, are thus brought to bear sooner -than they would otherwise have done. - -We saw no wheel-carriages of any sort in the place, which, perhaps, is -not more owing to the want of ingenuity to invent them than to the want -of industry to mend the roads, which, at present, it is impossible that -any wheel-carriage should pass: the inhabitants have horses and mules, -indeed, excellently adapted to such ways; but their wine is, -notwithstanding, brought to town from the vineyards where it is made in -vessels of goat-skins, which are carried by men upon their heads. The -only imitation of a carriage among these people is a board, made -somewhat hollow in the middle, to one end of which a pole is tied, by a -strap of whit-leather: this wretched sledge approaches about as near to -an English cart as an Indian canoe to a ship’s long-boat; and even this -would probably never have been thought of, if the English had not -introduced wine-vessels, which are too big to be carried by hand, and -which, therefore, are dragged about the town upon these machines. - -One reason, perhaps, why art and industry have done so little for -Madeira, is, Nature’s having done so much. The soil is very rich, and -there is such a difference of climate between the plains and the hills, -that there is scarcely a single object of luxury that grows either in -Europe or the Indies that might not be produced here. When we went to -visit Dr. Heberden, who lives upon a considerable ascent, about two -miles from town, we left the thermometer at 74, and when we arrived at -his house, we found it at 66. The hills produce, almost spontaneously, -walnuts, chesnuts, and apples in great abundance; and in the town there -are many plants which are the natives both of the East and West Indies, -particularly the banana, the guava, the pine-apple or anana, and the -mango, which flourish almost without culture. The corn of this country -is of a most excellent quality, large grained and very fine, and the -island would produce it in great plenty; yet most of what is consumed by -the inhabitants is imported. The mutton, pork, and beef, are also very -good; the beef, in particular, which we took on board here, was -universally allowed to be scarcely inferior to our own; the lean part -was very like it, both in colour and grain, though the beasts are much -smaller, but the fat is as white as the fat of mutton. - -The town of Funchiale derives its name from _Funcho_, the Portuguese -name for fennel, which grows in great plenty upon the neighbouring -rocks, and by the observation of Dr. Heberden, lies in the latitude of -32° 33ʹ 33ʺ N. and longitude 16° 49ʹ W. It is situated in the bottom of -a bay, and though larger than the extent of the island seems to deserve, -is very ill built; the houses of the principal inhabitants are large, -those of the common people are small, the streets are narrow, and worse -paved than any I ever saw. The churches are loaded with ornaments, among -which are many pictures, and images of favourite saints; but the -pictures are in general wretchedly painted, and the saints are dressed -in laced clothes. Some of the convents are in a better taste, especially -that of the Franciscans, which is plain, simple, and neat in the highest -degree. The infirmary in particular drew our attention as a model which -might be adopted in other countries with great advantage. It consists of -a long room, on one side of which are the windows, and an altar for the -convenience of administering the sacrament to the sick: the other side -is divided into wards, each of which is just big enough to contain a -bed, and neatly lined with gally-tiles; behind these wards, and parallel -to the room in which they stand, there runs a long gallery, with which -each ward communicates by a door, so that the sick may be separately -supplied with whatever they want without disturbing their neighbours. In -this convent there is also a singular curiosity of another kind; a small -chapel, the whole lining of which, both sides and ceiling, is composed -of human sculls and thigh-bones; the thigh-bones are laid across each -other, and a scull is placed in each of the four angles. Among the -sculls one is very remarkable; the upper and the lower jaw, on one side, -perfectly and firmly cohere; how the ossification which unites them was -formed, it is not, perhaps, very easy to conceive, but it is certain -that the patient must have lived some time without opening his mouth: -what nourishment he received was conveyed through a hole, which we -discovered to have been made on the other side, by forcing out some of -the teeth, in doing which the jaw also seems to have been injured. - -We visited the good Fathers of this convent on a Thursday evening, just -before supper-time, and they received us with great politeness: “We will -not ask you,” said they, “to sup with us, because we are not prepared; -but if you will come to-morrow, though it is a fast with us, we will -have a turkey roasted for you.” This invitation, which showed a -liberality of sentiment not to have been expected in a convent of -Portuguese friars at this place, gratified us much, though it was not in -our power to accept it. - -We visited also a convent of nuns, dedicated to _Santa Clara_, and the -ladies did us the honour to express a particular pleasure in seeing us -there: they had heard that there were great philosophers among us, and -not at all knowing what were the objects of philosophical knowledge, -they asked us several questions that were absurd and extravagant in the -highest degree; one was, when it would thunder; and another, whether a -spring of fresh water was to be found any where within the walls of -their convent, of which it seems they were in great want. It will -naturally be supposed that our answers to such questions were neither -satisfactory to the ladies, nor, in their estimation, honourable to us; -yet their disappointment did not in the least lessen their civility, and -they talked, without ceasing, during the whole of our visit, which -lasted about half an hour. - -The hills of this country are very high; the highest, Pico Ruivo, rises -5068 feet, near an English mile, perpendicularly from its base, which is -much higher than any land that has been measured in Great Britain. The -sides of these hills are covered with vines to a certain height, above -which there are woods of chesnut and pine of immense extent, and above -them forests of wild timber of various kinds not known in Europe; -particularly two, called by the Portuguese _Mirmulano_ and _Paobranco_, -the leaves of both which, particularly the _Paobranco_, are so -beautiful, that these trees would be a great ornament to the gardens of -Europe. - -The number of inhabitants in this island is supposed to be about 80,000, -and the custom-house duties produce a revenue to the King of Portugal of -20,000 pounds a-year, clear of all expenses, which might easily be -doubled by the product of the island, exclusive of the vines, if -advantage was taken of the excellence of the climate, and the amazing -fertility of the soil; but this object is utterly neglected by the -Portuguese. In the trade of the inhabitants of Madeira with Lisbon the -balance is against them, so that all the Portuguese money naturally -going thither, the currency of the island is Spanish; there are, indeed, -a few Portuguese pieces of copper, but they are so scarce that we did -not see one of them: the Spanish coin is of three denominations; -Pistereens, worth about a shilling; Bitts, worth about sixpence; and -Half-bitts, three-pence. - -The tides at this place flow at the full and change of the moon, north -and south; the spring tides rise seven feet perpendicular, and the neap -tides four. By Dr. Heberden’s observation, the variation of the compass -here is now 15° 30ʹ West, and decreasing; but I have some doubt whether -he is not mistaken with respect to its decrease: we found that the North -point of the dipping needle belonging to the Royal Society dipped 77° -18ʺ. - -The refreshments to be had here are water, wine, fruit of several sorts, -onions in plenty, and some sweetmeats; fresh meat and poultry are not to -be had without leave from the governor, and the payment of a very high -price. - -We took in 270 lb. of fresh beef, and a live bullock, charged at 613 lb. -3032 gallons of water, and ten tons of wine; and in the night, between -Sunday the 18th and Monday the 19th of September, we set sail in -prosecution of our voyage. - -When Funchiale bore North, 13 East, at the distance of 76 miles, the -variation appeared by several azimuths to be 16° 30ʹ West. - - - - - CHAP. II. - - THE PASSAGE FROM MADEIRA TO RIO DE JANEIRO, WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF THE - COUNTRY, AND THE INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED THERE. - - -ON the 21st of September we saw the islands called the Salvages, to the -north of the Canaries; when the principal of these bore S. ½ W. at the -distance of about five leagues, we found the variation of the compass by -an azimuth to be 17° 50ʹ. I make these islands to lie in latitude 30° -11ʹ North, and distant 58 leagues from Funchiale in Madeira, in the -direction of S. 16 E. - -On Friday the 23d we saw the Peak of Teneriffe bearing W. by S. ½ S. and -found the variation of the compass to be from 17° 22ʹ to 16° 30ʹ. The -height of this mountain, from which I took a new departure, has been -determined by Dr. Heberden, who has been upon it, to be 15,396 feet, -which is but 148 yards less than three miles, reckoning the mile at 1760 -yards. Its appearance at sunset was very striking; when the sun was -below the horizon, and the rest of the island appeared of a deep black, -the mountain still reflected his rays, and glowed with a warmth of -colour which no painting can express. There is no eruption of visible -fire from it, but a heat issues from the chinks near the top, too strong -to be borne by the hand when it is held near them. We had received from -Dr. Heberden, among other favours, some salt which he collected on the -top of the mountain, where it is found in large quantities, and which he -supposes to be the true _natrum_, or _nitrum_ of the ancients: he gave -us also some native sulphur exceedingly pure, which he had likewise -found upon the surface in great plenty. - -On the next day, Saturday the 24th, we came into the north-east trade -wind, and on Friday the 30th saw Bona Vista, one of the Cape de Verd -islands; we ranged the east side of it, at the distance of three or four -miles from the shore, till we were obliged to haul off to avoid a ledge -of rocks which stretch out S. W. by W. from the body, or S. E. point of -the island, to the extent of a league and a half. Bona Vista, by our -observation, lies in latitude 16 N. and longitude 21° 5ʹ West. - -On the 1st of October, in latitude 14° 6ʹ N. and longitude 22° 10ʹ W. we -found the variation by a very good azimuth to be 10° 37ʹ W. and the next -morning it appeared to be 10°. This day we found the ship five miles a -head of the log, and the next day seven. On the third, hoisted out the -boat to discover whether there was a current, and found one to the -eastward, at the rate of three quarters of a mile an hour. - -During our course from Teneriffe to Bona Vista we saw great numbers of -flying fish, which from the cabin windows appear beautiful beyond -imagination, their sides having the colour and brightness of burnished -silver; when they are seen from the deck they do not appear to so much -advantage, because their backs are of a dark colour. We also took a -shark, which proved to be the _Squalus Carcharias_ of Linnæus. - -Having lost the trade wind on the 3d, in latitude 12° 14ʹ, and longitude -22° 10ʹ, the wind became somewhat variable, and we had light airs and -calms by turns. - -On the 7th, Mr. Banks went out in the boat and took what the seamen call -a Portuguese man of war; it is the _Holuthuria Physalis_ of Linnæus, and -a species of the _Mollusca_. It consisted of a small bladder about seven -inches long, very much resembling the air-bladder of fishes, from the -bottom of which descended a number of strings, of a bright blue and red, -some of them three or four feet in length, which, upon being touched, -sting like a nettle, but with much more force. On the top of the bladder -is a membrane which is used as a sail, and turned so as to receive the -wind which way soever it blows: this membrane is marked in fine -pink-coloured veins, and the animal is in every respect an object -exquisitely curious and beautiful. - -We also took several of the shell-fishes, or testaceous animals, which -are always found floating upon the water, particularly the _Helix -Janthina_ and _Violacea_; they are about the size of a snail, and are -supported upon the surface of the water by a small cluster of bubbles, -which are filled with air, and consist of a tenacious slimy substance -that will not easily part with its contents; the animal is oviparous, -and these bubbles serve also as a _nidus_ for its eggs. It is probable -that it never goes down to the bottom, nor willingly approaches any -shore; for the shell is exceedingly brittle, and that of few fresh water -snails is so thin: every shell contains about a teaspoonful of liquor, -which it easily discharges upon being touched, and which is of the most -beautiful red purple that can be conceived. It dies linen cloth, and it -may perhaps be worth enquiry, as the shell is certainly found in the -Mediterranean, whether it be not the _Purpura_ of the ancients. - -On the 8th, in latitude 8° 25ʹ North, longitude 22° 4ʹ West, we found a -current setting to the southward, which the next day in latitude 7° 58ʹ, -longitude 22° 13ʹ, shifted to the N. N. W. ¾ W., at the rate of one mile -and a furlong an hour. The variation here, by the mean of several -azimuths, appeared to be 8° 39ʹ W. - -On the 10th, Mr. Banks shot the black-toed gull, not yet described -according to Linnæus’s system; he gave it the name of _Larus -crepidatus_: it is remarkable that the dung of this bird is of a lively -red, somewhat like that of the liquor procured from the shells, only not -so full; its principal food therefore is probably the _Helix_ just -mentioned. A current to the N. W. prevailed more or less till Monday the -24th, when we were in latitude 1° 7ʹ N., and longitude 28° 50ʹ. - -On the 25th we crossed the line with the usual ceremonies, in longitude -29° 30ʹ, when, by the result of several very good azimuths, the -variation was 2° 24ʹ. - -On the 28th, at noon, being in the latitude of Ferdinand _Noronha_, and, -by the mean of several observations by Mr. Green and myself in longitude -32° 5ʹ 16ʺ W., which is to the westward of it by some charts, and to the -eastward by others, we expected to see the island, or some of the shoals -that are laid down in the charts between it and the main, but we saw -neither one nor the other. - -In the evening of the 29th, we observed that luminous appearance of the -sea which has been so often mentioned by navigators, and of which such -various causes have been assigned; some supposing it to be occasioned by -fish, which agitated the water by darting at their prey, some by the -putrefaction of fish and other marine animals, some by electricity, and -others referring it into a great variety of different causes. It -appeared to emit flashes of light exactly resembling those of lightning, -only not so considerable; but they were so frequent, that sometimes -eight or ten were visible almost at the same moment. We were of opinion -that they proceeded from some luminous animal, and upon throwing out the -casting net our opinion was confirmed: it brought up a species of the -_Medusa_, which, when it came on board, had the appearance of metal -violently heated, and emitted a white light: with these animals were -taken some very small crabs, of three different species, each of which -gave as much light as a glow-worm, though the creature was not so large -by nine-tenths: upon examination of these animals Mr. Banks had the -satisfaction to find that they were all entirely new. - -On Wednesday, the 2d of November, about noon, being in the latitude of -10° 38ʹ S., and longitude 32° 13ʹ 43ʺ W., we passed the line in which -the needle at this time would have pointed due north and south, without -any variation: for in the morning, having decreased gradually in its -deviation for some days, it was no more than 18ʹ W., and in the -afternoon it was 34ʹ East. - -On the 6th, being in latitude 19° 3ʹ South, longitude 35° 50ʹ West, the -colour of the water was observed to change, upon which we sounded, and -found ground at the depth of 32 fathoms: the lead was cast three times -within about four hours, without a foot difference in the depth or -quality of the bottom, which was coral rock, fine sand, and shells; we -therefore supposed that we had passed over the tail of the great shoal -which is laid down in all our charts by the name of _Abrothos_, on which -Lord Anson struck soundings in his passage outwards: at four the next -morning we had no ground with 100 fathom. - -As several articles of our stock and provisions now began to fall short, -I determined to put into Rio de Janeiro, rather than at any port in -Brazil or Falkland’s Islands, knowing that it could better supply us -with what we wanted, and making no doubt but that we should be well -received. - -On the 8th, at day-break, we saw the coast of Brazil, and about ten -o’clock we brought to, and spoke with a fishing boat: the people on -board told us that the land which we saw lay to the southward of _Sancto -Espirito_, but belonging to the captainship of that place. - -Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went on board this vessel, in which they -found eleven men, nine of whom were blacks: they all fished with lines; -and their fresh cargo, the chief part of which Mr. Banks bought, -consisted of dolphins, large pelagic scombers of two kinds, sea-bream, -and some of the fish which, in the West Indies, are called Welshmen. Mr. -Banks had taken Spanish silver with him, which he imagined to be the -currency of the Continent, but to his great surprise the people asked -him for English shillings; he gave them two, which he happened to have -about him, and it was not without some dispute that they took the rest -of the money in pistereens. Their business seemed to be to catch large -fish at a good distance from the shore, which they salted in bulk, in a -place made for that purpose in the middle of their boat: of this -merchandize they had about two quintals on board, which they offered for -about 16 shillings, and would probably have sold for half the money. The -fresh fish, which was bought for about nineteen shillings and sixpence, -served the whole ship’s company: the salt was not wanted. - -The sea-provision of these fishermen consisted of nothing more than a -cask of water, and a bag of Cassada flour, which they called _Farinha de -Pao_, or wooden flour; which, indeed, is a name which very well suits -its taste and appearance. Their water-cask was large, as wide as their -boat, and exactly fitted a place that was made for it in the ballast; it -was impossible therefore to draw out any of its contents by a tap, the -sides being, from the bottom to the top, wholly inaccessible; neither -could any be taken out by dipping a vessel in at the head, for an -opening sufficiently wide for that purpose would have endangered the -loss of great part of it by the rolling of the vessel: their expedient -to get at their water, so situated, was curious; when one of them wanted -to drink, he applied to his neighbour, who accompanied him to the -water-cask with a hollow cane about three feet long, which was open at -both ends; this he thrust into the cask through a small hole in the top, -and then, stopping the upper end with the palm of his hand, drew it out; -the pressure of the air against the other end keeping in the water which -it contained; to this end the person who wanted to drink applied his -mouth, and the assistant then taking his hand from the other, and -admitting the air above, the cane immediately parted with its contents, -which the drinker drew off till he was satisfied. - -We stood off and on along the shore till the 12th, and successively saw -a remarkable hill near Santo Espirito, then Cape St. Thomas, and then an -island just without Cape Frio, which in some maps is called the Island -of Frio, and which being high, with a hollow in the middle, has the -appearance of two islands when seen at a distance. On this day we stood -along the shore for Rio de Janeiro, and at nine the next morning made -sail for the harbour. I then sent Mr. Hicks, my first lieutenant, before -us in the pinnace, up to the city, to acquaint the Governor, that we put -in there to procure water and refreshments; and to desire the assistance -of a pilot to bring us into proper anchoring-ground. I continued to -stand up the river, trusting to Mr. Bellisle’s draught, published in the -_Petit Atlas Maritime_, Vol. II. No. 54., which we found very good, till -five o’clock in the evening, expecting the return of my lieutenant; and -just as I was about to anchor, above the island of Cobras, which lies -before the city, the pinnace came back without him, having on board a -Portuguese officer, but no pilot. The people in the boat told me, that -my lieutenant was detained by the Viceroy till I should go on shore. We -came immediately to an anchor; and, almost at the same time, a ten-oared -boat, full of soldiers, came up and kept rowing round the ship, without -exchanging a word: in less than a quarter of an hour, another boat came -on board with several of the Viceroy’s officers, who asked whence we -came; what was our cargo; the number of men and guns on board; the -object of our voyage, and several other questions, which we directly and -truly answered: they then told me, as a kind of apology for detaining my -lieutenant, and putting an officer on board my pinnace, that it was the -invariable custom of the place, to detain the first officer who came on -shore from any ship on her arrival, till a boat from the Viceroy had -visited her, and to suffer no boat to go either from or to a ship, while -she lay there, without having a soldier on board. They said that I might -go on shore when I pleased; but wished that every other person might -remain on board till the paper which they should draw up had been -delivered to the Viceroy, promising that, immediately upon their return, -the lieutenant should be sent on board. - -This promise was performed; and on the next morning, the 14th, I went on -shore, and obtained leave of the Viceroy to purchase provisions and -refreshments for the ship, provided I would employ one of their own -people as a factor, but not otherwise. I made some objections to this, -but he insisted upon it as the custom of the place. I objected also -against the putting a soldier into the boat every time she went between -the ship and the shore; but he told me, that this was done by the -express orders of his court, with which he could in no case dispense. I -then requested, that the gentlemen whom I had on board might reside on -shore during our stay, and that Mr. Banks might go up the country to -gather plants; but this he absolutely refused. I judged from his extreme -caution, and the severity of these restrictions, that he suspected we -were come to trade; I therefore took some pains to convince him of the -contrary. I told him, that we were bound to the southward, by the order -of His Britannic Majesty, to observe a transit of the planet Venus over -the sun, an astronomical phænomenon of great importance to navigation. -Of the transit of Venus, however, he could form no other conception, -than that it was the passing of the North star through the South Pole; -for these are the very words of his interpreter, who was a Swede, and -spoke English very well. I did not think it necessary to ask permission -for the gentlemen to come on shore during the day, or that, when I was -on shore myself, I might be at liberty, taking for granted that nothing -was intended to the contrary; but in this I was unfortunately mistaken. -As soon as I took leave of His Excellency, I found an officer who had -orders to attend me wherever I went: of this I desired an explanation, -and was told that it was meant as a compliment. I earnestly desired to -be excused from accepting such an honour, but the good Viceroy would by -no means suffer it to be dispensed with. - -With this officer, therefore, I returned on board about twelve o’clock, -where I was impatiently expected by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, who made -no doubt but that a fair account of us having been given by the officers -who had been on board the evening before, in their paper called a -_Practica_, and every scruple of the Viceroy removed in my conference -with His Excellency, they should immediately be at liberty to go on -shore, and dispose of themselves as they pleased. Their disappointment -at receiving my report may easily be conceived; and it was still -increased by an account, that it had been resolved, not only to prevent -their residing on shore, and going up the country, but even their -leaving the ship; orders having been given that no person, except the -captain, and such common sailors as were required to be upon duty, -should be permitted to land; and that there was probably a particular -view to the passengers in this prohibition, as they were reported to be -gentlemen sent abroad to make observations and discoveries, and were -uncommonly qualified for that purpose. In the evening, however, Mr. -Banks and Dr. Solander dressed themselves, and attempted to go on shore, -in order to make a visit to the Viceroy; but they were stopped by the -guard-boat which had come off with our pinnace, and which kept hovering -round the ship all the while she lay here, for that purpose; the officer -on board saying, that he had particular orders, which he could not -disobey, to suffer no passenger, nor any officer, except the captain, to -pass the boat. After much expostulation to no purpose, they were -obliged, with whatever reluctance and mortification, to return on board. -I then went on shore myself, but found the Viceroy inflexible; he had -one answer ready for every thing I could say, that the restrictions -under which he had laid us were in obedience to the King of Portugal’s -commands, and therefore indispensable. - -In this situation I determined, rather than be made a prisoner in my own -boat, to go on shore no more; for the officer who, under pretence of a -compliment, attended me when I was ashore, insisted also upon going with -me to and from the ship: but still imagining, that the scrupulous -vigilance of the Viceroy must proceed from some mistaken notion about -us, which might more easily be removed by writing than in conversation, -I drew up a memorial, and Mr. Banks drew up another, which we sent on -shore. These memorials were both answered, but by no means to our -satisfaction; we therefore replied: in consequence of which, several -other papers were interchanged between us and the Viceroy, but still -without effect. However, as I thought some degree of force, on the part -of the Viceroy, to enforce these restrictions, necessary to justify my -acquiescence in them to the Admiralty, I gave orders to my lieutenant, -Mr. Hicks, when I sent him with our last reply on Sunday the 20th, in -the evening, not to suffer a guard to be put into his boat. When the -officer on board the guard-boat found that Mr. Hicks was determined to -obey my orders, he did not proceed to force, but attended him to the -landing-place, and reported the matter to the Viceroy. Upon this His -Excellency refused to receive the memorial, and ordered Mr. Hicks to -return to the ship; when he came back to the boat, he found that a guard -had been put on board in his absence, but he absolutely refused to -return till the soldier was removed: the officer then proceeded to -enforce the Viceroy’s orders; he seized all the boat’s crew, and sent -them under an armed force to prison, putting Mr. Hicks, at the same -time, into one of their own boats, and sending him under a guard back to -the ship. As soon as he had reported these particulars, I wrote again to -the Viceroy, demanding my boat and crew, and in my letter inclosed the -memorial which he had refused to receive from Mr. Hicks: these papers I -sent by a petty officer, that I might wave the dispute about a guard, -against which I had never objected except when there was a commissioned -officer on board the boat. The petty officer was permitted to go on -shore with his guard, and, having delivered his letter, was told that an -answer would be sent the next day. - -About eight o’clock this evening it began to blow very hard in sudden -gusts from the south, and our long-boat coming on board just at this -time with four pipes of rum, the rope which was thrown to her from the -ship, and which was taken hold of by the people on board, unfortunately -broke, and the boat, which had come to the ship before the wind, went -adrift to windward of her, with a small skiff of Mr. Banks’s that was -fastened to her stern. This was a great misfortune, as the pinnace being -detained on shore, we had no boat on board but a four-oared yawl: the -yawl, however, was immediately manned and sent to her assistance; but, -notwithstanding the utmost effort of the people in both boats, they were -very soon out of sight: far, indeed, we could not see at that time in -the evening, but the distance was enough to convince us that they were -not under command, which gave us great uneasiness, as we knew they must -drive directly upon a reef of rocks which ran out just to leeward of -where we lay: after waiting some hours in the utmost anxiety, we gave -them over for lost, but, about three o’clock the next morning, had the -satisfaction to see all the people come on board in the yawl. From them -we learnt, that the long-boat having filled with water they had brought -her to a grappling, and left her; and that, having fallen in with the -reef of rocks in their return to the ship, they had been obliged to cut -Mr. Banks’s little boat adrift. As the loss of our long-boat, which we -had now too much reason to apprehend, would have been an unspeakable -disadvantage to us, considering the nature of our expedition, I sent -another letter to the Viceroy, as soon as I thought he could be seen, -acquainting him with our misfortune, and requesting the assistance of a -boat from the shore for the recovery of our own; I also renewed my -demand that the pinnace and her crew should be no longer detained: after -some delay, His Excellency thought fit to comply both with my request -and demand; and the same day we happily recovered both the long-boat and -skiff, with the rum, but every thing else that was on board was lost. On -the 23d, the Viceroy, in his answer to my remonstrance against seizing -my men and detaining the boat, acknowledged that I had been treated with -some incivility, but said that the resistance of my officers to what he -had declared to be the King’s orders made it absolutely necessary; he -also expressed some doubts whether the Endeavour, considering her -structure and other circumstances, was in the service of His Majesty, -though I had before showed him my commission: to this I answered in -writing, that, to remove all scruples, I was ready to produce my -commission again. His Excellency’s scruples, however, still remained, -and in his reply to my letter he not only expressed them in still -plainer terms, but accused my people of smuggling. This charge, I am -confident, was without the least foundation in truth. Mr. Banks’s -servants had indeed found means to go on shore on the 22d at day-break, -and stay till it was dark in the evening, but they brought on board only -plants and insects, having been sent for no other purpose. And I had the -greatest reason to believe that not a single article was smuggled by any -of our people who were admitted on shore, though many artful means were -used to tempt them, even by the very officers that were under His -Excellency’s roof, which made the charge still more injurious and -provoking. I have indeed some reason to suspect that one poor fellow -bought a single bottle of rum with some of the clothes upon his back; -and in my answer I requested of His Excellency, that, if such an attempt -at illicit trade should be repeated, he would without scruple order the -offender to be taken into custody. And thus ended our altercation, both -by conference and writing, with the Viceroy of Rio de Janeiro. - -A friar in the town having requested the assistance of our surgeon, Dr. -Solander easily got admittance in that character on the 25th, and -received many marks of civility from the people. On the 26th, before -day-break, Mr. Banks also found means to elude the vigilance of the -people in the guard-boat, and got on shore; he did not, however, go into -the town, for the principal objects of his curiosity were to be found in -the fields: to him also the people behaved with great civility, many of -them invited him to their houses, and he bought a porker and some other -things of them for the ship’s company; the porker, which was by no means -lean, cost him eleven shillings, and he paid something less than two for -a Muscovy duck. - -On the 27th, when the boats returned from watering, the people told us -there was a report in town, that search was making after some persons -who had been on shore from the ship without the Viceroy’s permission: -these persons we conjectured to be Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks, and -therefore they determined to go on shore no more. - -On the first of December, having got our water and other necessaries on -board, I sent to the Viceroy for a pilot to carry us to sea, who came -off to us; but the wind preventing us from getting out, we took on board -a plentiful supply of fresh beef, yams, and greens for the ship’s -company. On the 2d, a Spanish packet arrived, with letters from Buenos -Ayres for Spain, commanded by Don Antonio de Monte Negro y Velasco, who -with great politeness offered to take our letters to Europe: I accepted -the favour, and gave him a packet for the secretary of the Admiralty, -containing copies of all the papers that had passed between me and the -Viceroy; leaving also duplicates with the Viceroy, to be by him -forwarded to Lisbon. - -On Monday, the 5th, it being a dead calm, we weighed anchor and towed -down the bay; but, to our great astonishment, when we got abreast of -Santa Cruz, the principal fortification, two shot were fired at us. We -immediately cast anchor, and sent to the fort to enquire the reason of -what had happened; our people brought us word, that the commandant had -received no order from the Viceroy to let us pass; and that, without -such an order, no vessel was ever suffered to go below the fort. It was -now, therefore, become necessary, that we should send to the Viceroy, to -enquire why the necessary order had not been given, as he had notice of -our departure, and had thought fit to write me a polite letter, wishing -me a good voyage. Our messenger soon returned with an account, that the -order had been written some days, but, by an unaccountable negligence, -not sent. - -We did not get under sail till the 7th; and, when we had passed the -fort, the pilot desired to be discharged. As soon as he was dismissed, -we were left by our guard-boat, which had hovered about us from the -first hour of our being in this place to the last; and Mr. Banks, having -been prevented from going ashore at Rio de Janeiro, availed himself of -her departure to examine the neighbouring islands, where, particularly -on one in the mouth of the harbour, called Raza, he gathered many -species of plants, and caught a variety of insects. - -It is remarkable, that, during the last three or four days of our -staying in this harbour, the air was loaded with butterflies: they were -chiefly of one sort, but in such numbers that thousands were in view in -every direction, and the greatest part of them above our mast-head. - -We lay here from the 14th of November to the 7th of December, something -more than three weeks, during which time Mr. Monkhouse, our surgeon, was -on shore every day to buy our provisions; Dr. Solander was on shore -once; I was several times on shore myself, and Mr. Banks also found -means to get into the country, notwithstanding the watch that was set -over us. I shall, therefore, with the intelligence obtained from these -gentlemen, and my own observations, give some account of the town, and -the country adjacent. - -Rio de Janeiro, or the river of Januarius, was probably so called from -its having been discovered on the feast-day of that saint; and the town, -which is the capital of the Portuguese dominions in America, derives its -name from the river, which, indeed, is rather an arm of the sea, for it -did not appear to receive any considerable stream of fresh water: it -stands on a plain, close to the shore, on the west side of the bay, at -the foot of several high mountains which rise behind it. It is neither -ill designed nor ill built: the houses, in general, are of stone, and -two stories high; every house having, after the manner of the -Portuguese, a little balcony before its windows, and a lattice of wood -before the balcony. I computed its circuit to be about three miles; for -it appears to be equal in size to the largest country towns in England, -Bristol and Liverpool not excepted: the streets are straight, and of a -convenient breadth, intersecting each other at right angles; the greater -part, however, lie in a line with the citadel called St. Sebastian, -which stands on the top of a hill that commands the town. - -It is supplied with water from the neighbouring hills, by an aqueduct, -which is raised upon two stories of arches, and is said in some places -to be at a great height from the ground, from which the water is -conveyed by pipes into a fountain in the great square that exactly -fronts the Viceroy’s palace. At this fountain great numbers of people -are continually waiting for their turn to draw water; and the soldiers, -who are posted at the governor’s door, find it very difficult to -maintain any regularity among them. The water at this fountain, however, -is so bad, that we, who had been two months at sea, confined to that in -our casks, which was almost always foul, could not drink it with -pleasure. Water of a better quality is laid into some other part of the -town, but I could not learn by what means. - -The churches are very fine, and there is more religious parade in this -place than in any of the Popish countries in Europe: there is a -procession of some parish every day, with various insignia, all splendid -and costly in the highest degree: they beg money, and say prayers in -great form, at the corner of every street. - -While we lay here, one of the churches was rebuilding; and to defray the -expense, the parish to which it belonged had leave to beg in procession -through the whole city once a week, by which very considerable sums were -collected. At this ceremony, which was performed by night, all the boys -of a certain age were obliged to assist, the sons of gentlemen not being -excused. Each of these boys was dressed in a black cassock, with a short -red cloak, hanging about as low as the waist, and carried in his hand a -pole about six or seven feet long, at the end of which was tied a -lantern: the number of lanterns was generally above two hundred, and the -light they gave was so great, that the people who saw it from the cabin -windows thought the town had been on fire. - -The inhabitants, however, may pay their devotions at the shrine of any -saint in the calendar, without waiting till there is a procession; for -before almost every house there is a little cupboard, furnished with a -glass window, in which one of these tutelary powers is waiting to be -gracious; and to prevent his being out of mind, by being out of sight, a -lamp is kept constantly burning before the window of his tabernacle in -the night. The people, indeed, are by no means remiss in their -devotions, for before these saints they pray and sing hymns with such -vehemence, that in the night they were very distinctly heard on board -the ship, though she lay at the distance of at least half a mile from -the town. - -The government here, as to its form, is mixed; it is notwithstanding -very despotic in fact. It consists of the Viceroy, the governor of the -town, and a council, the number of which I could not learn: without the -consent of this council, in which the Viceroy has a casting vote, no -judicial act should be performed; yet both the Viceroy and Governor -frequently commit persons to prison at their own pleasure, and sometimes -send them to Lisbon, without acquainting their friends or family with -what is laid to their charge, or where they may be found. - -To restrain the people from travelling into the country, and getting -into any district where gold or diamonds may be found, of both which -there is much more than the government can otherwise secure, certain -bounds are prescribed them, at the discretion of the Viceroy, sometimes -at a few, and sometimes at many miles’ distance from the city. On the -verge of these limits a guard constantly patroles, and whoever is found -beyond it, is immediately seized and thrown into prison; and if a man -is, upon any pretence, taken up by the guard without the limits, he will -be sent to prison, though it should appear that he did not know their -extent. - -The inhabitants, which are very numerous, consist of Portuguese, -negroes, and Indians, the original natives of the country. The township -of Rio, which, as I was told, is but a small part of the Capitanea, or -province, is said to contain 37,000 white persons, and 629,000 blacks, -many of whom are free; making together 666,000 in the proportion of -seventeen to one. The Indians, who are employed to do the King’s work in -this neighbourhood, can scarcely be considered as inhabitants; their -residence is at a distance, from whence they come by turns to their -task, which they are obliged to perform for a small pay. The guard-boat -was constantly rowed by these people, who are of a light copper colour, -and have long black hair. - -The military establishment here consists of twelve regiments of regular -troops, six of which are Portuguese and six Creoles; and twelve other -regiments of provincial militia. To the regulars the inhabitants behave -with the utmost humility and submission; and I was told, that if any of -them should neglect to take off his hat upon meeting an officer, he -would immediately be knocked down. These haughty severities render the -people extremely civil to any stranger who has the appearance of a -gentleman. But the subordination of the officers themselves to the -Viceroy is enforced with circumstances equally mortifying, for they are -obliged to attend in his hall three times every day to ask his commands; -the answer constantly is, “There is nothing new.” I have been told, that -this servile attendance is exacted to prevent their going into the -country; and if so, it effectually answers the purpose. - -It is, I believe, universally allowed, that the women, both of the -Spanish and Portuguese settlements in South America, make less -difficulty of granting personal favours, than those of any other -civilized country in the world. Of the ladies of this town some have -formed so unfavourable an opinion as to declare, that they did not -believe there was a modest one among them. This censure is certainly too -general; but what Dr. Solander saw of them when he was on shore, gave -him no very exalted idea of their chastity: he told me, that as soon as -it was dark, one or more of them appeared in every window, and -distinguished those whom they liked, among the gentlemen that walked -past them, by giving them nosegays; that he, and two gentlemen who were -with him, received so many of these favours, that, at the end of their -walk, which was not a long one, they threw whole hatfuls of them away. -Great allowance must certainly be made for local customs; that which in -one country would be an indecent familiarity, is a mere act of general -courtesy in another; of the fact, therefore, which I have related, I -shall say nothing, but that I am confident it is true. - -Neither will I take upon me to affirm, that murders are frequently -committed here; but the churches afford an asylum to the criminal: and -as our cockswain was one day looking at two men, who appeared to be -talking together in a friendly manner, one of them suddenly drew a -knife, and stabbed the other; who not instantly falling, the murderer -withdrew the weapon, and stabbed him a second time. He then ran away, -and was pursued by some negroes who were also witnesses of the fact; but -whether he escaped or was taken I never heard. - -The country, at a small distance round the town, which is all that any -of us saw, is beautiful in the highest degree; the wildest spots being -varied with a greater luxuriance of flowers, both as to number and -beauty, than the best gardens in England. - -Upon the trees and bushes sat an almost endless variety of birds, -especially small ones, many of them covered with the most elegant -plumage; among which were the humming-bird. Of insects, too, there was a -great variety, and some of them very beautiful; but they were much more -nimble than those of Europe, especially the butterflies, most of which -flew near the tops of the trees, and were, therefore, very difficult to -be caught, except when the sea breeze blew fresh, which kept them nearer -to the ground. - -The banks of the sea, and of the small brooks which water this part of -the country, are almost covered with the small crabs called _Cancer -vocans_; some of these had one of the claws called by naturalists the -hand, very large; others had them both remarkably small, and of equal -size, a difference which is said to distinguish the sexes, that with the -large claw being the male. - -There is the appearance of but little cultivation; the greater part of -the land is wholly uncultivated, and very little care and labour seem to -have been bestowed upon the rest; there are, indeed, little patches or -gardens, in which many kinds of European garden stuff are produced, -particularly cabbages, peas, beans, kidney beans, turnips, and white -radishes, but all much inferior to our own: water-melons and pine-apples -are also produced in these spots, and they are the only fruits that we -saw cultivated, though the country produces musk, melons, oranges, -limes, lemons, sweet lemons, citrons, plantains, bananas, mangos, mamane -apples, acajou or cashou apples and nuts; jamboira of two kinds, one of -which bears a small black fruit; cocoa-nuts, mangos, palm-nuts of two -kinds, one long, the other round; and palm-berries; all which were in -season while we were there. - -Of these fruits the water-melons and oranges are the best in their kind; -the pine-apples are much inferior to those that I have eaten in England; -they are, indeed, more juicy and sweet, but have no flavour: I believe -them to be natives of this country, though we heard of none that at this -time grow wild; they have, however, very little care bestowed upon them, -the plants being set between beds of any kind of garden-stuff, and -suffered to take the chance of the season. The melons are still worse, -at least those that we tasted, which were mealy and insipid; but the -water-melons are excellent; they have a flavour, at least a degree of -acidity which ours have not. We saw also several species of the prickle -pear, and some European fruits, particularly the apple and peach, both -which were very mealy and insipid. In these gardens also grow yams and -mandihoca, which in the West Indies is called Cassada or Cassava, and to -the flower of which the people here, as I have before observed, give the -name of _Farinha de Pao_, which may not improperly be translated, Powder -of Post. The soil, though it produces tobacco and sugar, will not -produce bread-corn; so that the people here have no wheat-flour, but -what is brought from Portugal, and sold at the rate of a shilling a -pound, though it is generally spoiled by being heated in its passage. -Mr. Banks is of opinion, that all the products of our West Indian -islands would grow here; notwithstanding which, the inhabitants import -their coffee and chocolate from Lisbon. - -Most of the land, as far we saw of the country, is laid down in grass, -upon which cattle are pastured in great plenty; but they are so lean, -that an Englishman will scarcely eat of their flesh: the herbage of -these pastures consists principally of cresses, and consequently is so -short, that though it may afford a bite for horses and sheep, it can -scarcely be grazed by horned cattle in a sufficient quantity to keep -them alive. - -This country may possibly produce many valuable drugs; but we could not -find any in the apothecaries’ shops, except pariera brava, and balsam -capivi; both of which were excellent in their kind, and sold at a very -low price. The drug trade is probably carried on to the northward, as -well as that of the dying woods, for we could get no intelligence of -either of them here. - -As to manufactures, we neither saw nor heard of any except that of -cotton hammocks, in which people are carried about here, as they are -with us in sedan chairs; and these are principally, if not wholly, -fabricated by the Indians. - -The riches of the place consist chiefly in the mines, which we supposed -to lie far up the country, though we could never learn where, or at what -distance; for the situation is concealed as much as possible, and troops -are continually employed in guarding the roads that lead to them: it is -almost impossible for any man to get a sight of them, except those who -are employed there; and, indeed, the strongest curiosity would scarcely -induce any man to attempt it, for whoever is found upon the road to -them, if he cannot give undeniable evidence of his having business -there, is immediately hanged up upon the next tree. - -Much gold is certainly brought from these mines, but at an expense of -life that must strike every man, to whom custom has not made it -familiar, with horror. No less than forty thousand negroes are annually -imported on the king’s account, to dig the mines; and we were credibly -informed, that the last year but one before we arrived here this number -fell so short, probably from some epidemic disease that twenty thousand -more were draughted from the town of Rio. - -Precious stones are also found here in such plenty, that a certain -quantity only is allowed to be collected in a year; to collect this -quantity, a number of people are sent into the country where they are -found, and when it is got together, which sometimes happens in a month, -sometimes in less, and sometimes in more, they return; and after that, -whoever is found in these precious districts, on any pretence, before -the next year, is immediately put to death. - -The jewels found here are diamonds, topazes of several kinds, and -amethysts. We did not see any of the diamonds, but were informed that -the Viceroy had a large quantity by him, which he would sell on the King -of Portugal’s account, but not at a less price than they are sold for in -Europe. Mr. Banks bought a few topazes and amethysts as specimens: of -the topazes there are three sorts, of very different value, which are -distinguished here by the names of Pinga d’agua qualidade primeiro, -Pinga d’agua qualidade secundo, and Chrystallos armerillos: they are -sold, large and small, good and bad together, by octavos, or the eighth -part of an ounce; the best at 4s. 9d. All dealing, however, in these -stones is prohibited to the subject under the severest penalties: there -were jewellers here formerly, who purchased and worked them on their own -account; but about fourteen months before our arrival, orders came from -the court of Portugal, that no more stones should be wrought here, -except on the King’s account: the jewellers were ordered to bring all -their tools to the Viceroy, and left without any means of subsistence. -The persons employed here to work stones for the King are slaves. - -The coin that is current here, is either that of Portugal, consisting -chiefly of thirty-six shillings pieces; or pieces, both of gold and -silver, which are struck at this place: the pieces of silver, which are -very much debased, are called Petacks, and are of different value, and -easily distinguished by the number of rees that is marked on the -outside. Here is also a copper coin, like that in Portugal, of five and -ten ree pieces. A ree is a nominal coin of Portugal, ten of which are -equal in value to about three farthings sterling. - -The harbour of Rio de Janeiro is situated W. by N. 18 leagues from Cape -Frio, and may be known by a remarkable hill, in the form of a -sugar-loaf, at the west point of the bay; but as all the coast is very -high, and rises in many peaks, the entrance of this harbour may be more -certainly distinguished by the islands that lie before it; one of which, -called Rodonda, is high and round, like a hay-stack, and lies at the -distance of two leagues and a half from the entrance of the bay, in the -direction of S. by W.; but the first islands which are met with, coming -from the east, or Cape Frio, are two that have a rocky appearance, lying -near to each other, and at the distance of about four miles from the -shore: there are also at the distance of three leagues to the westward -of these two other islands, which lie near to each other, a little -without the bay on the east side, and very near the shore. This harbour -is certainly a good one; the entrance, indeed, is not wide, but the -sea-breeze, which blows every day from ten or twelve o’clock till sunset -makes it easy for any ship to go in before the wind; and it grows wider -as the town is approached, so that abreast of it there is room for the -largest fleet, in five or six fathom water, with an oozy bottom. At the -narrow part, the entrance is defended by two forts. The principal is -Santa Cruz, which stands on the east point of the bay, and has been -mentioned before; that on the west side is called fort Lozia, and is -built upon a rock that lies close to the main; the distance between them -is about ¾ of a mile, but the channel is not quite so broad, because -there are sunken rocks which lie off each fort, and in this part alone -there is danger: the narrowness of the channel causes the tides, both -flood and ebb, to run with considerable strength, so that they cannot be -stemmed without a fresh breeze. The rockiness of the bottom makes it -also unsafe to anchor here; but all danger may be avoided by keeping in -the middle of the channel. Within the entrance, the course up the bay is -first N. by W. ½ W., and N. N. W., something more than a league; this -will bring the vessel the length of the great road; and N. W. and W. N. -W. one league more will carry her to the Isle dos Cobras, which lies -before the city: she should then keep the north side of this island -close on board, and anchor above it, before a monastery of Benedictines, -which stands upon a hill at the N. W. end of the city. - -The river, and, indeed, the whole coast, abounds with a greater variety -of fish than we had ever seen; a day seldom passed in which one or more -of a new species were not brought to Mr. Banks: the bay also is as well -adapted for catching these fish as can be conceived; for it is full of -small islands, between which there is shallow water, and proper beaches -for drawing the seine. The sea, without the bay, abounds with dolphins, -and large mackarel of different kinds, which readily bite at a hook, and -the inhabitants always tow one after their boats for that purpose. - -Though the climate is hot, the situation of this place is certainly -wholesome; while we stayed here the thermometer never rose higher than -83 degrees. - -We had frequent rains, and once a very hard gale of wind. - -Ships water here at the fountain in the great square, though, as I have -observed, the water is not good: they land their casks upon a smooth -sandy beach, which is not more than a hundred yards distant from the -fountain; and, upon application to the Viceroy, a sentinel will be -appointed to look after them, and clear the way to the fountain where -they are to be filled. - -Upon the whole, Rio de Janeiro is a very good place for ships to put in -at that want refreshment: the harbour is safe and commodious; and -provisions, except wheaten bread and flour, may be easily procured: as a -succedaneum for bread, there are yams and cassada in plenty; beef, both -fresh and jerked, may be bought at about two-pence farthing a pound; -though, as I have before remarked, it is very lean. The people here jerk -their beef by taking out the bones, cutting it into large but thin -slices, then curing it with salt, and drying it in the shade: it eats -very well, and, if kept dry, will remain good a long time at sea. Mutton -is scarcely to be procured, and hogs and poultry are dear; of -garden-stuff and fruit-trees there is abundance, of which, however, none -can be preserved at sea but the pumpkin; rum, sugar, and molasses, all -excellent in their kind, may be had at a reasonable price; tobacco also -is cheap, but it is not good. Here is a yard for building shipping, and -a small hulk to heave down by; for as the tide never rises above six or -seven feet, there is no other way of coming at a ship’s bottom. - -When the boat which had been sent on shore returned, we hoisted her on -board, and stood out to sea. - - - - - CHAP. III. - - THE PASSAGE FROM RIO DE JANEIRO TO THE ENTRANCE OF THE STREIGHT OF LE -MAIRE, WITH A DESCRIPTION OF SOME OF THE INHABITANTS OF TERRA DEL FUEGO. - - -ON the 9th of December we observed the sea to be covered with broad -streaks of a yellowish colour, several of them a mile long, and three or -four hundred yards wide; some of the water thus coloured was taken up, -and found to be full of innumerable atoms, pointed at the end, of a -yellowish colour, and none more than a quarter of a line, or the -fortieth part of an inch long; in the microscope they appeared to be -_Fasciculi_ of small fibres interwoven with each other, not unlike the -nidus of some of the _Phyganeas_, called Caddices; but whether they were -animal or vegetable substances, whence they came, or for what they were -designed, neither Mr. Banks nor Dr. Solander could guess. The same -appearance had been observed before, when we first discovered the -Continent of South America. - -On the 11th we hooked a shark, and while we were playing it under the -cabin window, it threw out, and drew in again, several times, what -appeared to be its stomach: it proved to be a female, and upon being -opened six young ones were taken out of it; five of them were alive, and -swam briskly in a tub of water, but the sixth appeared to have been dead -some time. - -Nothing remarkable happened till the 30th, except that we prepared for -the bad weather, which we were shortly to expect, by bending a new suit -of sails; but on this day we ran a course of one hundred and sixty miles -by the log, through innumerable land insects of various kinds, some upon -the wing, and more upon the water, many of which were alive; they -appeared to be exactly the same with the _Carabi_, the _Grylli_, the -_Phalanæ_, _Aranea_, and other flies that are seen in England, though at -this time we could not be less than thirty leagues from land; and some -of these insects, particularly the _Grylli Aranea_, never voluntarily -leave it at a greater distance than twenty yards. We judged ourselves to -be now nearly opposite to _Baye sans fond_, where Mr. Dalrymple supposes -there is a passage quite through the continent of America; and we -thought from the insects that there might be at least a very large -river, and that it had overflowed its banks. - -On the 3d of January, 1769, being in latitude 47° 17ʹ S. and longitude -61° 29ʹ 45ʺ W., we were all looking out for Pepys’ island, and for some -time an appearance was seen in the east which so much resembled land, -that we bore away for it; and it was more than two hours and a half -before we were convinced that it was nothing but what sailors call a -fog-bank. - -The people now beginning to complain of cold, each of them received what -is called a Magellanic jacket, and a pair of trowsers. The jacket is -made of a thick woollen stuff, called _Fearnought_, which is provided by -the government. We saw, from time to time, a great number of penguins, -albatrosses, and sheerwaters, seals, whales, and porpoises; and on the -11th, having passed Falkland’s islands, we discovered the coast of Terra -del Fuego, at the distance of about four leagues, extending from the W. -to S. E. by S. We had here five-and-thirty fathom, the ground soft, -small slate stones. As we ranged along the shore to the S. E., at the -distance of two or three leagues, we perceived smoke in several places, -which was made by the natives, probably as a signal, for they did not -continue it after we had passed by. This day we discovered that the ship -had got near a degree of longitude to the westward of the log, which, in -this latitude, is 35 minutes of a degree on the equator: probably there -is a small current setting to the westward, which may be caused by the -westerly current coming round Cape Horn, and through the Streight of Le -Maire, and the indraught of the Streight of Magellan.[1] - -Having continued to range the coast, on the 14th we entered the Streight -of Le Maire; but the tide turning against us, drove us out with great -violence, and raised such a sea off Cape St. Deigo, that the waves had -exactly the same appearance as they would have had if they had broke -over a ledge of rocks; and when the ship was in this torrent, she -frequently pitched, so that the bowsprit was under water. About noon, we -got under the land between Cape St. Deigo and Cape St. Vincent, where I -intended to have anchored; but finding the ground every where hard and -rocky, and shallowing from thirty to twelve fathoms, I sent the master -to examine a little cove which lay at a small distance to the eastward -of Cape St. Vincent. When he returned, he reported that there was -anchorage in four fathom, and a good bottom, close to the eastward, of -the first bluff point, on the east of Cape St. Vincent, at the very -entrance of the cove, to which I gave the name of VINCENT’s Bay: before -this anchoring ground, however, lay several rocky ledges, that were -covered with sea-weed; but I was told that there was not less than eight -and nine fathom over all of them. It will probably be thought strange, -that where weeds, which grow at the bottom, appear above the surface, -there should be this depth of water; but the weeds which grow upon rocky -ground in these countries, and which always distinguish it from sand and -ooze, are of an enormous size. The leaves are four feet long, and some -of the stalks, though not thicker than a man’s thumb, above one hundred -and twenty. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander examined some of them, over which -we sounded and had fourteen fathom, which is eighty-four feet; and, as -they made a very acute angle with the bottom, they were thought to be at -least one half longer: the foot-stalks were swelled into an air vessel, -and Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander called this plant _Fucus giganteus_. Upon -the report of the master, I stood in with the ship; but not trusting -implicitly to his intelligence, I continued to sound, and found but four -fathom upon the first ledge that I went over; concluding, therefore, -that I could not anchor here without risk, I determined to seek some -port in the Streight, where I might get on board such wood and water as -we wanted. - -Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, however, being very desirous to go on shore, -I sent a boat with them and their people, while I kept plying as near as -possible with the ship. - -Having been on shore four hours, they returned about nine in the -evening, with above an hundred different plants and flowers, all of them -wholly unknown to the botanists of Europe. They found the country about -the bay to be in general flat, the bottom of it in particular was a -plain covered with grass, which might easily have been made into a large -quantity of hay; they found also abundance of good wood and water, and -fowl in great plenty. Among other things, of which nature has been -liberal in this place, is Winter’s bark, _Winteranea aromatica_; which -may easily be known by its broad leaf, shaped like the laurel, of a -light green colour without, and inclining to blue within; the bark is -easily stripped with a bone or a stick, and its virtues are well known; -it may be used for culinary purposes as a spice, and is not less -pleasant than wholesome: here is also plenty of wild celery and -scurvy-grass. The trees are chiefly of one kind, a species of the birch, -called _Betula antarctica_; the stem is from thirty to forty feet long, -and from two to three feet in diameter, so that in a case of necessity -they might possibly supply a ship with top-masts; they are a light white -wood, bear a small leaf, and cleave very straight. Cranberries were also -found here in great plenty, both white and red. - -The persons who landed saw none of the inhabitants, but fell in with two -of their deserted huts, one in a thick wood, and the other close by the -beach. - -Having taken the boat on board, I made sail into the Streight, and at -three in the morning of the 15th I anchored in twelve fathom and a half, -upon coral rocks, before a small cove, which we took for Port Maurice, -at the distance of about half a mile from the shore. Two of the natives -came down to the beach, expecting us to land; but this spot afforded so -little shelter, that I at length determined not to examine it; I -therefore got under sail again about ten o’clock, and the savages -retired into the woods. - -At two o’clock, we anchored in the bay of Good Success; and after dinner -I went on shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, to look for -a watering-place, and speak to the Indians, several of whom had come in -sight. We landed on the starboard side of the bay near some rocks, which -made smooth water and good landing: thirty or forty of the Indians soon -made their appearance at the end of a sandy beach on the other side of -the bay, but seeing our number, which was ten or twelve, they retreated. -Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander then advanced about one hundred yards before -us, upon which two of the Indians returned, and, having advanced some -paces towards them, sat down: as soon as they came up, the Indians rose, -and each of them having a small stick in his hand threw it away, in a -direction both from themselves and the strangers, which was considered -as the renunciation of weapons in token of peace: they then walked -briskly towards their companions, who had halted at about fifty yards -behind them, and beckoned the gentlemen to follow, which they did. They -were received with many uncouth signs of friendship; and, in return, -they distributed among them some beads and ribbons, which had been -brought on shore for that purpose, and with which they were greatly -delighted. A mutual confidence and good-will being thus produced, our -parties joined: the conversation, such as it was, became general; and -three of them accompanied us back to the ship. When they came on board, -one of them, whom we took to be a priest, performed much the same -ceremonies which M. Bougainville describes, and supposes to be an -exorcism. When he was introduced into a new part of the ship, or when -any thing that he had not seen before caught his attention, he shouted -with all his force for some minutes, without directing his voice either -to us or his companions. - -They eat some bread and some beef, but not apparently with much -pleasure, though such part of what was given them as they did not eat -they took away with them; but they would not swallow a drop either of -wine or spirits: they put the glass to their lips, but, having tasted -the liquor, they returned it, with strong expressions of disgust. -Curiosity seems to be one of the few passions which distinguish men from -brutes; and of this our guests appeared to have very little. They went -from one part of the ship to another, and looked at the vast variety of -new objects that every moment presented themselves, without any -expression either of wonder or pleasure; for the vociferation of our -exorcist seemed to be neither. - -After having been on board about two hours, they expressed a desire to -go ashore. A boat was immediately ordered, and Mr. Banks thought fit to -accompany them: he landed them in safety, and conducted them to their -companions, among whom he remarked the same vacant indifference, as in -those who had been on board; for as on one side there appeared no -eagerness to relate, so on the other there seemed to be no curiosity to -hear, how they had been received, or what they had seen. In about half -an hour, Mr. Banks returned to the ship, and the Indians retired from -the shore. - - - - - CHAP. IV. - - AN ACCOUNT OF WHAT HAPPENED IN ASCENDING A MOUNTAIN TO SEARCH FOR - PLANTS. - - -ON the 16th, early in the morning, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, with -their attendants and servants, and two seamen to assist in carrying the -baggage, accompanied by Mr. Monkhouse the surgeon, and Mr. Green the -astronomer, set out from the ship, with a view to penetrate as far as -they could into the country, and return at night. The hills, when viewed -at a distance, seemed to be partly a wood, partly a plain, and above -them a bare rock. Mr. Banks hoped to get through the wood, and made no -doubt but that, beyond it, he should, in a country which no botanist had -ever yet visited, find alpine plants which would abundantly compensate -his labour. They entered the wood at a small sandy beach, a little to -the westward of the watering-place, and continued to ascend the hill, -through the pathless wilderness, till three o’clock, before they got a -near view of the places which they intended to visit. Soon after they -reached what they had taken for a plain; but, to their great -disappointment, found it a swamp, covered with low bushes of birch, -about three feet high, interwoven with each other, and so stubborn that -they could not be bent out of the way; it was therefore necessary to -lift the leg over them, which at every step was buried, ancle deep, in -the soil. To aggravate the pain and difficulty of such travelling, the -weather, which had hitherto been very fine, much like one of our bright -days in May, became gloomy and cold, with sudden blasts of a most -piercing wind, accompanied with snow. They pushed forward, however, in -good spirits, notwithstanding their fatigue, hoping the worst of the way -was past, and that the bare rock which they had seen from the tops of -the lower hills was not more than a mile before them: but when they had -got about two-thirds over this woody swamp, Mr. Buchan, one of Mr. -Banks’s draughtsmen, was unhappily seized with a fit. This made it -necessary for the whole company to halt, and as it was impossible that -he should go any farther, a fire was kindled, and those who were most -fatigued were left behind to take care of him. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, -Mr. Green, and Mr. Monkhouse went on, and in a short time reached the -summit. As botanists, their expectations were here abundantly gratified; -for they found a great variety of plants, which, with respect to the -alpine plants in Europe, are exactly what those plants are with respect -to such as grow in the plain. - -The cold was now become more severe, and the snow-blasts more frequent; -the day also was so far spent, that it was found impossible to get back -to the ship before the next morning: to pass the night upon such a -mountain, in such a climate, was not only comfortless, but dreadful; it -was impossible, however, to be avoided, and they were to provide for it -as well as they could. - -Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, while they were improving an opportunity -which they had, with so much danger and difficulty, procured, by -gathering the plants which they found upon the mountain, sent Mr. Green -and Mr. Monkhouse back to Mr. Buchan and the people that were with him, -with directions to bring them to a hill, which they thought lay in a -better rout for returning to the wood, and which was therefore appointed -as a general rendezvous. It was proposed, that from this hill they -should push through the swamp, which seemed by the new rout not to be -more than half a mile over, into the shelter of the wood and there build -their wigwam, and make a fire: this, as their way was all down hill, it -seemed easy to accomplish. Their whole company assembled at the -rendezvous, and, though pinched with the cold, were in health and -spirits, Mr. Buchan himself having recovered his strength in a much -greater degree than could have been expected. It was now near eight -o’clock in the evening, but still good daylight, and they set forward -for the nearest valley, Mr. Banks himself undertaking to bring up the -rear, and see that no straggler was left behind: this may, perhaps, be -thought a superfluous caution, but it will soon appear to be otherwise. -Dr. Solander, who had more than once crossed the mountains which divide -Sweden from Norway, well knew that extreme cold, especially when joined -with fatigue, produces a torpor and sleepiness that are almost -irresistible: he therefore conjured the company to keep moving, whatever -pain it might cost them, and whatever relief they might be promised by -an inclination to rest. Whoever sits down, says he, will sleep; and -whoever sleeps, will wake no more. Thus, at once admonished and alarmed, -they set forward; but while they were still upon the naked rock, and -before they had got among the bushes, the cold became suddenly so -intense, as to produce the effects that had been most dreaded. Dr. -Solander himself was the first who found the inclination, against which -he had warned others, irresistible; and insisted upon being suffered to -lie down. Mr. Banks entreated and remonstrated in vain: down he lay upon -the ground, though it was covered with snow; and it was with great -difficulty that his friend kept him from sleeping. Richmond also, one of -the black servants, began to linger, having suffered from the cold in -the same manner as the Doctor. Mr. Banks, therefore, sent five of the -company, among whom was Mr. Buchan, forward to get a fire ready at the -first convenient place they could find; and himself, with four others, -remained with the Doctor and Richmond, whom, partly by persuasion and -entreaty, and partly by force, they brought on; but when they had got -through the greatest part of the birch and swamp, they both declared -they could go no farther. Mr. Banks had recourse again to entreaty and -expostulation, but they produced no effect: when Richmond was told, that -if he did not go on he would in a short time be frozen to death, he -answered, that he desired nothing but to lie down and die: the Doctor -did not so explicitly renounce his life; he said he was willing to go -on, but that he must first take some sleep, though he had before told -the company that to sleep was to perish. Mr. Banks and the rest found it -impossible to carry them, and there being no remedy, they were both -suffered to sit down, being partly supported by the bushes, and in a few -minutes they fell into a profound sleep: soon after, some of the people -who had been sent forward, returned, with the welcome news that a fire -was kindled about a quarter of a mile farther on the way. Mr. Banks then -endeavoured to wake Dr. Solander, and happily succeeded: but, though he -had not slept five minutes, he had almost lost the use of his limbs, and -the muscles were so shrunk that his shoes fell from his feet: he -consented to go forward with such assistance as could be given him, but -no attempts to relieve poor Richmond were successful. It being found -impossible to make him stir, after some time had been lost in the -attempt, Mr. Banks left his other black servant and a seaman, who seemed -to have suffered least by the cold, to look after him; promising, that -as soon as two others should be sufficiently warmed, they should be -relieved. Mr. Banks, with much difficulty, at length got the Doctor to -the fire; and soon after sent two of the people who had been refreshed, -in hopes that, with the assistance of those who had been left behind, -they would be able to bring Richmond, even though it should still be -found impossible to wake him. In about half an hour, however, they had -the mortification to see these two men return alone: they said, that -they had been all round the place to which they had been directed, but -could neither find Richmond nor those who had been left with him; and -that though they had shouted many times, no voice had replied. This was -matter of equal surprise and concern, particularly to Mr. Banks, who, -while he was wondering how it could happen, missed a bottle of rum, the -company’s whole stock, which they now concluded to be in the knapsack of -one of the absentees. It was conjectured, that with this Richmond had -been roused by the two persons who had been left with him, and that, -having perhaps drank too freely of it themselves, they had all rambled -from the place where they had been left, in search of the fire, instead -of waiting for those who should have been their assistants and guides. -Another fall of snow now came on, and continued incessantly for two -hours, so that all hope of seeing them again, at least alive, were given -up; but about twelve o’clock, to the great joy of those at the fire, a -shouting was heard at some distance. Mr. Banks, with four more, -immediately went out, and found the seaman with just strength enough -left to stagger along, and call out for assistance: Mr. Banks sent him -immediately to the fire, and, by his direction, proceeded in search of -the other two, whom he soon after found. Richmond was upon his legs, but -not able to put one before the other: his companion was lying upon the -ground, as insensible as a stone. All hands were now called from the -fire, and an attempt was made to carry them to it; but this, -notwithstanding the united efforts of the whole company, was found to be -impossible. The night was extremely dark, the snow was now very deep, -and, under these additional disadvantages, they found it very difficult -to make way through the bushes and the bog for themselves, all of them -getting many falls in the attempt. The only alternative was to make a -fire upon the spot; but the snow which had fallen, and was still -falling, besides what was every moment shaken in flakes from the trees, -rendered it equally impracticable to kindle one there and to bring any -part of that which had been kindled in the wood thither: they were, -therefore, reduced to the sad necessity of leaving the unhappy wretches -to their fate; having first made them a bed of boughs from the trees, -and spread a covering of the same kind over them, to a considerable -height. - -Having now been exposed to the cold and the snow near an hour and a -half, some of the rest began to lose their sensibility; and one, -Briscoe, another of Mr. Banks’s servants, was so ill, that it was -thought he must die before he could be got to the fire. - -At the fire, however, at length they arrived; and passed the night in a -situation, which however dreadful in itself, was rendered more -afflicting by the remembrance of what was past, and the uncertainty of -what was to come. Of twelve, the number that set out together in health -and spirits, two were supposed to be already dead; a third was so ill, -that it was very doubtful whether he would be able to go forward in the -morning; and a fourth, Mr. Buchan, was in danger of a return of his -fits, by fresh fatigue, after so uncomfortable a night: they were -distant from the ship a long day’s journey, through pathless woods, in -which it was too probable they might be bewildered till they were -overtaken by the next night; and, not having prepared for a journey of -more than eight or ten hours, they were wholly destitute of provisions, -except a vulture, which they happened to shoot while they were out, and -which, if equally divided, would not afford each of them half a meal; -and they knew not how much more they might suffer from the cold, as the -snow still continued to fall. A dreadful testimony of the severity of -the climate, as it was now the midst of summer in this part of the -world, the twenty-first of December being here the longest day; and -every thing might justly be dreaded from a phænomenon which, in the -corresponding season, is unknown even in Norway and Lapland. - -When the morning dawned, they saw nothing round them, as far as the eye -could reach, but snow, which seemed to lie as thick upon the trees as -upon the ground; and the blasts returned so frequently, and with such -violence, that they found it impossible for them to set out: how long -this might last they knew not, and they had but too much reason to -apprehend that it would confine them in that desolate forest till they -perished with hunger and cold. - -After having suffered the misery and terror of this situation till six -o’clock in the morning, they conceived some hope of deliverance by -discovering the place of the sun through the clouds, which were become -thinner, and began to break away. Their first care was to see whether -the poor wretches whom they had been obliged to leave among the bushes -were yet alive; three of the company were dispatched for that purpose, -and very soon afterwards returned with the melancholy news, that they -were dead. - -Notwithstanding the flattering appearance of the sky, the snow still -continued to fall so thick, that they could not venture out on their -journey to the ship; but about eight o’clock a small regular breeze -sprung up, which, with the prevailing influence of the sun, at length -cleared the air; and they soon after, with great joy, saw the snow fall -in large flakes from the trees, a certain sign of an approaching thaw: -they now examined more critically the state of their invalids: Briscoe -was still very ill, but said, that he thought himself able to walk; and -Mr. Buchan was much better than either he or his friends had any reason -to expect. They were now, however, pressed by the calls of hunger; to -which, after long fasting, every consideration of future good or evil -immediately gives way. Before they set forward, therefore, it was -unanimously agreed, that they should eat their vulture: the bird was -accordingly skinned; and, it being thought best to divide it before it -was fit to be eaten, it was cut into ten portions, and every man cooked -his own as he thought fit. After this repast, which furnished each of -them with about three mouthfuls, they prepared to set out; but it was -ten o’clock before the snow was sufficiently gone off, to render a march -practicable. After a walk of about three hours, they were very agreeably -surprised to find themselves upon the beach, and much nearer to the ship -than they had any reason to expect. Upon reviewing their track from the -vessel, they perceived that, instead of ascending the hill in a line, so -as to penetrate into the country, they had made almost a circle round -it. When they came on board, they congratulated each other upon their -safety, with a joy that no man can feel who has not been exposed to -equal danger; and as I had suffered great anxiety at their not returning -in the evening of the day on which they set out, I was not wholly -without my share. - - - - - CHAP. V. - -THE PASSAGE THROUGH THE STREIGHT OF LE MAIRE, AND A FURTHER DESCRIPTION - OF THE INHABITANTS OF TERRA DEL FUEGO, AND ITS PRODUCTIONS. - - -ON the 18th and 19th, we were delayed in getting on board our wood and -water by a swell: but on the 20th, the weather being more moderate, we -again sent the boat on shore, and Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went in it. -They landed in the bottom of the bay; and while my people were employed -in cutting brooms, they pursued their great object, the improvement of -natural knowledge, with success, collecting many shells and plants which -hitherto have been altogether unknown: they came on board to dinner, and -afterwards went again on shore to visit an Indian town, which some of -the people had reported to lie about two miles up the country. They -found the distance not more than by the account, and they approached it -by what appeared to be the common road, yet they were above an hour in -getting thither, for they were frequently up to their knees in mud. When -they got within a small distance, two of the people came out to meet -them, with such state as they could assume: when they joined them, they -began to hollow as they had done on board the ship, without addressing -themselves either to the strangers or their companions; and having -continued this strange vociferation some time, they conducted them to -the town. It was situated on a dry knoll, or small hill, covered with -wood, none of which seemed to have been cleared away, and consisted of -about twelve or fourteen hovels, of the most rude and inartificial -structure that can be imagined. They were nothing more than a few poles -set up so as to incline towards each other, and meet at the top, forming -a kind of a cone, like some of our bee-hives: on the weather-side they -were covered with a few boughs, and a little grass; and on the lee-side -about one-eighth of the circle was left open, both for a door and a -fire-place; and of this kind were the huts that had been seen in St. -Vincent’s bay, in one of which the embers of a fire were still -remaining. Furniture they had none: a little grass, which lay round the -inside of the hovel, served both for chairs and beds; and of all the -utensils which necessity and ingenuity have concurred to produce among -other savage nations, they saw only a basket to carry in the hand, a -satchel to hang at the back, and the bladder of some beast to hold -water, which the natives drink through a hole that is made near the top -for that purpose. - -The inhabitants of this town were a small tribe, not more than fifty in -number, of both sexes and of every age. Their colour resembles that of -the rust of iron mixed with oil, and they have long black hair: the men -are large, but clumsily built: their stature is from five feet eight to -five feet ten: the women are much less, few of them being more than five -feet high. Their whole apparel consists of the skin of a guanicoe, or -seal, which is thrown over their shoulders, exactly in the state in -which it came from the animal’s back; a piece of the same skin, which is -drawn over their feet, and gathered about the ancles like a purse, and a -small flap, which is worn by the women as a succedaneum for a fig-leaf. -The men wear their cloak open, the women tie it about their waist with a -thong. But although they are content to be naked, they are very -ambitious to be fine. Their faces were painted in various forms: the -region of the eye was in general white, and the rest of the face adorned -with horizontal streaks of red and black; yet scarcely any two were -exactly alike. This decoration seems to be more profuse and elaborate -upon particular occasions; for the two gentlemen who introduced Mr. -Banks and the Doctor into the town were almost covered with streaks of -black in all directions, so as to make a very striking appearance. Both -men and women wore bracelets of such beads as they could make themselves -of small shells or bones; the women both upon their wrists and ancles, -the men upon their wrists only: but to compensate for the want of -bracelets on their legs, they wore a kind of fillet of brown worsted -round their heads. They seemed to set a particular value upon any thing -that was red, and preferred beads even to a knife or a hatchet. - -Their language in general is guttural, and they express some of their -words by a sound exactly like that which we make to clear the throat -when any thing happens to obstruct it; yet they have words that would be -deemed soft in the better languages of Europe. Mr. Banks learnt what he -supposes to be their name for beads and water. When they wanted beads, -instead of ribbons or other trifles, they said _hallĕcă_; and when they -were taken on shore from the ship, and by signs asked where water might -be found, they made the sign of drinking, and pointing as well to the -casks as the watering-place, cried _Oodâ_. - -We saw no appearance of their having any food but shell-fish; for though -seals were frequently seen near the shore, they seemed to have no -implements for taking them. The shell-fish is collected by the women, -whose business it seems to be to attend at low water, with a basket in -one hand, and a stick, pointed and barbed, in the other, and a satchel -at their backs: they loosen the limpets, and other fish that adhere to -the rocks with the stick, and put them into the basket, which, when -full, they empty into the satchel. - -The only things that we found among them in which there was the least -appearance of neatness or ingenuity were their weapons, which consisted -of a bow and arrows. The bow was not inelegantly made, and the arrows -were the neatest that we had ever seen: they were of wood, polished to -the highest degree; and the point, which was of glass or flint, and -barbed, was formed and fitted with wonderful dexterity. We saw also some -pieces of glass and flint among them unwrought, besides rings, buttons, -cloth, and canvass, with other European commodities; they must, -therefore, sometimes travel to the northward, for it is many years since -any ship has been so far south as this part of Terra del Fuego. We -observed, also, that they showed no surprise at our fire-arms, with the -use of which they appeared to be well acquainted; for they made signs to -Mr. Banks to shoot a seal which followed the boat, as they were going on -shore from the ship. - -M. de Bougainville, who, in January, 1768, just one year before us, had -been on shore upon this coast in latitude 53° 40ʹ 41ʺ, had, among other -things, given glass to the people whom he found here; for he says, that -a boy about twelve years old took it into his head to eat some of it: by -this unhappy accident he died in great misery; but the endeavours of the -good father, the French _aumonier_, were more successful than those of -the surgeon; for though the surgeon could not save his life, the -charitable priest found means to steal a Christian baptism upon him so -secretly, that none of his Pagan relations knew any thing of the matter. -These people might probably have some of the very glass which -Bougainville left behind him, either from other natives, or perhaps from -himself; for they appeared rather to be a travelling horde than to have -any fixed habitation. Their houses are built to stand but for a short -time. They have no utensil or furniture but the basket and satchel, -which have been mentioned before, and which have handles adapted to the -carrying them about, in the hand and upon the back. The only clothing -they had here was scarcely sufficient to prevent their perishing with -cold in the summer of this country, much less in the extreme severity of -winter. The shell-fish, which seems to be their only food, must soon be -exhausted at any one place; and we had seen houses upon what appeared to -be a deserted station in St. Vincent’s Bay. - -It is also probable that the place where we found them was only a -temporary residence, from their having here nothing like a boat or -canoe, of which it can scarcely be supposed that they were wholly -destitute, especially as they were not sea-sick, or particularly -affected, either in our boat or on board the ship. We conjectured that -there might be a streight or inlet, running from the sea through great -part of this island, from the Streight of Magellan, whence these people -might come, leaving their canoes where such inlet terminated. - -They did not appear to have among them any government or subordination: -none was more respected than another; yet they seemed to live together -in the utmost harmony and good fellowship. Neither did we discover any -appearance of religion among them, except the noises which have been -mentioned, and which we supposed to be a superstitious ceremony, merely -because we could refer them to nothing else: they were used only by one -of those who came on board the ship, and the two who conducted Mr. Banks -and Dr. Solander to the town, whom we therefore conjectured to be -priests. Upon the whole, these people appeared to be the most destitute -and forlorn, as well as the most stupid, of all human beings; the -outcasts of nature, who spent their lives in wandering about the dreary -wastes, where two of our people perished with cold in the midst of -summer; with no dwelling but a wretched hovel of sticks and grass, which -would not only admit the wind, but the snow and the rain; almost naked; -and destitute of every convenience that is furnished by the rudest art, -having no implement even to dress their food: yet they were content. -They seemed to have no wish for any thing more than they possessed, nor -did any thing that we offered them appear acceptable but beads, as an -ornamental superfluity of life. What bodily pain they might suffer from -the severities of their winter we could not know; but it is certain that -they suffered nothing from the want of the innumerable articles which we -consider not as the luxuries and conveniencies only but the necessaries -of life: as their desires are few, they probably enjoy them all; and how -much they may be gainers by an exemption from the care, labour, and -solicitude, which arise from a perpetual and unsuccessful effort to -gratify that infinite variety of desires which the refinements of -artificial life have produced among us, is not very easy to determine: -possibly this may counterbalance all the real disadvantages of their -situation in comparison with ours, and make the scales by which good and -evil are distributed to man hang even between us. - -In this place we saw no quadruped except seals, sea-lions, and dogs: of -the dogs it is remarkable that they bark, which those that are -originally bred in America do not. And this is a further proof, that the -people we saw here had, either immediately or remotely, communicated -with the inhabitants of Europe. There are, however, other quadrupeds in -this part of the country; for when Mr. Banks was at the top of the -highest hill that he ascended in his expedition through the woods, he -saw the footsteps of a large beast imprinted upon the surface of a bog, -though he could not with any probability guess of what kind it might be. - -Of land-birds there are but few: Mr. Banks saw none larger than an -English blackbird, except some hawks and a vulture; but of water-fowl -there is great plenty, particularly ducks. Of fish we saw scarce any, -and with our hooks could catch none that was fit to eat; but shell-fish, -limpets, clams, and mussels, were to be found in abundance. - -Among the insects, which were not numerous, there was neither gnat nor -musquito, nor any other species that was either hurtful or troublesome, -which perhaps is more than can be said of any other uncleared country. -During the snow-blasts, which happened every day while we were here, -they hide themselves; and the moment it is fair they appear again, as -nimble and vigorous as the warmest weather could make them. - -Of plants, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander found a vast variety; the far -greater part wholly different from any that have been hitherto -described. Besides the birch and winter’s bark, which have been -mentioned already; there is the beach, _Fagus antarcticus_, which, as -well as the birch, may be used for timber. The plants cannot be -enumerated here; but as the scurvy-grass, _Cardamine antiscorbutica_, -and the wild celery, _Apium antarcticum_, probably contain antiscorbutic -qualities, which may be of great benefit to the crews of such ships as -shall hereafter touch at this place, the following short description is -inserted: - -The scurvy-grass will be found in plenty in damp places, near springs of -water, and, in general, in all places that lie near the beach, -especially at the watering-place in the Bay of Good Success: when it is -young, the state of its greatest perfection, it lies flat upon the -ground, having many leaves of a bright green, standing in pairs opposite -to each other, with a single one at the end, which generally makes the -fifth upon a foot-stalk. The plant, passing from this state, shoots up -in stalks that are sometimes two feet high, at the top of which are -small white blossoms, and these are succeeded by long pods: the whole -plant greatly resembles that which in England is called Lady’s smock, or -Cuckow-flower. The wild celery is very like the celery in our gardens, -the flowers are white, and stand in the same manner, in small tufts at -the top of the branches, but the leaves are of a deeper green. It grows -in great abundance near the beach, and generally upon the soil that lies -next above the spring tides. It may, indeed, easily be known by the -taste, which is between that of celery and parsley. We used the celery -in large quantities, particularly in our soup, which, thus medicated, -produced the same good effects which seamen generally derive from a -vegetable diet, after having been long confined to salt provisions. - -On Sunday the 22d of January, about two o’clock in the morning, having -got our wood and water on board, we sailed out of the bay, and continued -our course through the Streight. - - - - - CHAP. VI. - - A GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE S. E. PART OF TERRA DEL FUEGO, AND THE -STREIGHT OF LE MAIRE; WITH SOME REMARKS ON LORD ANSON’S ACCOUNT OF THEM, - AND DIRECTIONS FOR THE PASSAGE WESTWARD, ROUND THIS PART OF AMERICA, - INTO THE SOUTH SEAS. - - -ALMOST all writers who have mentioned the island of Terra del Fuego, -describe it as destitute of wood, and covered with snow. In the winter -it may possibly be covered with snow, and those who saw it at that -season might, perhaps, be easily deceived, by its appearance, into an -opinion that it was destitute of wood. Lord Anson was there in the -beginning of March, which answers to our September, and we were there -the beginning of January, which answers to our July; which may account -for the difference of his description of it from ours. We fell in with -it about twenty-one leagues to the westward of the Streight of Le Maire, -and from the time that we first saw it, trees were plainly to be -distinguished with our glasses: and as we came nearer, though here and -there we discovered patches of snow, the sides of the hills and the sea -coast appeared to be covered with a beautiful verdure. The hills are -lofty, but not mountainous, though the summits of them are quite naked. -The soil in the valleys is rich, and of a considerable depth: and at the -foot of almost every hill there is a brook, the water of which has a -reddish hue, like that which runs through our turf bogs in England; but -it is by no means ill tasted, and, upon the whole, proved to be the best -that we took in during our voyage. We ranged the coast to the Streight, -and had soundings all the way from forty to twenty fathom upon a -gravelly and sandy bottom. The most remarkable land on Terra del Fuego -is a hill in the form of a sugar-loaf, which stands on the west side not -far from the sea; and the three hills, called the Three Brothers, about -nine miles to the westward of Cape St. Diego, the low point that forms -the north entrance of the Streight of Le Maire. - -It is said in the account of Lord Anson’s voyage, that it is difficult -to determine exactly where the Streight lies, though the appearance of -Terra del Fuego be well known, without knowing also the appearance of -Staten Land; and that some navigators have been deceived by three hills -on Staten Land, which have been mistaken for the Three Brothers on Terra -del Fuego, and so over-shot the Streight. But no ship can possibly miss -the Streight that coasts Terra del Fuego within sight of land, for it -will then of itself be sufficiently conspicuous; and Staten Land, which -forms the east side, will be still more manifestly distinguished, for -there is no land on Terra del Fuego like it. The Streight of Le Maire -can be missed only by standing too far to the eastward, without keeping -the land of Terra del Fuego in sight: if this is done, it may be missed, -however accurately the appearance of the coast of Staten Land may have -been exhibited; and if this is not done, it cannot be missed, though the -appearance of that coast be not known. The entrance of the Streight -should not be attempted but with a fair wind and moderate weather, and -upon the very beginning of the tide of flood, which happens here at the -full and change of the moon, about one or two o’clock; it is also best -to keep as near to the Terra del Fuego shore as the winds will admit. By -attending to these particulars, a ship may be got quite through the -Streight in one tide; or, at least, to the southward of Success Bay, -into which it will be more prudent to put, if the wind should be -southerly, than to attempt the weathering of Staten Land with a lee wind -and a current, which may endanger her being driven on that island. - -The Streight itself, which is bounded on the west by Terra del Fuego, -and on the east by the west end of Staten Land, is about five leagues -long, and as many broad. The Bay of Good Success lies about the middle -of it, on the Terra del Fuego side, and is discovered immediately upon -entering the Streight from the northward: and the south head of it may -be distinguished by a mark on the land, that has the appearance of a -broad road, leading up from the sea into the country: at the entrance it -is half a league wide, and runs in westward about two miles and a half. -There is good anchorage in every part of it, in from ten to seven -fathom, clear ground; and it affords plenty of exceeding good wood and -water. The tides flow in the Bay, at the full and change of the moon, -about four or five o’clock, and rise about five or six feet -perpendicular. But the flood runs two or three hours longer in the -Streight than in the Bay; and the ebb, or northerly current, runs with -near double the strength of the flood. - -In the appearance of Staten Land, we did not discover the wildness and -horror that is ascribed to it in the account of Lord Anson’s voyage. On -the north side are the appearances of bays or harbours; and the land, -when we saw it, was neither destitute of wood nor verdure, nor covered -with snow. The island seems to be about twelve leagues in length, and -five broad. - -On the west side of the Cape of Good Success, which forms the S. W. -entrance of the Streight, lies Valentine’s Bay, of which we only saw the -entrance; from this bay the land trends away to the W. S. W. for twenty -or thirty leagues; it appears to be high and mountainous, and forms -several bays and inlets. - -At the distance of fourteen leagues from the Bay of Good Success, in the -direction of S. W. ½ W. and between two and three leagues from the -shore, lies New Island. It is about two leagues in length from N. E. to -S. W. and terminates to the N. E. in a remarkable hillock. At the -distance of seven leagues from New Island, in the direction of S. W. -lies the Isle _Evouts_; and a little to the W. of the south of this -island lie Barnevelt’s two small flat islands, close to each other; they -are partly surrounded with rocks, which rise to different heights above -the water, and lie twenty-four leagues from the Streight of Le Maire. At -the distance of three leagues from Barnevelt’s islands, in the direction -of S. W. by S. lies the S. E. point of Hermit’s islands: these islands -lie S. E. and N. W., and are pretty high: from most points of view they -will be taken for one island, or a part of the main. - -From the S. E. point of Hermit’s islands to Cape Horn the course is S. -W. by S., distance three leagues. - -The appearance of this Cape and Hermit’s islands is represented in the -chart of this coast, from our first making land to the Cape, which -includes the Streight of Le Maire, and part of Staten Land. In this -chart I have laid down no land, nor traced out any shore but what I saw -myself, and thus far it may be depended upon: the bays and inlets, of -which we saw only the openings, are not traced; it can, however, -scarcely be doubted, but that most, if not all of them, afford -anchorage, wood, and water. The Dutch squadron, commanded by Hermit, -certainly put into some of them in the year 1624. And it was Chapenham, -the Vice-Admiral of this squadron, who first discovered that the land of -Cape Horn consisted of a number of islands. The account, however, which -those who sailed in Hermit’s fleet have given of these parts is -extremely defective; and those of Schouton and Le Maire are still worse. -It is therefore no wonder that the charts hitherto published should be -erroneous, not only in laying down the land, but in the latitude and -longitude of the places they contain. I will, however, venture to -assert, that the longitude of few parts of the world is better -ascertained than that of the Streight of Le Maire, and Cape Horn, in the -chart now offered to the public, as it was laid down by several -observations of the sun and moon, that were made both by myself and Mr. -Green. - -The variation of the compass on this coast I found to be from 23° to 25° -E. except near Barnevelt’s islands and Cape Horn, where we found it -less, and unsettled: probably it is disturbed here by the land, as -Hermit’s squadron, in this very place, found all their compasses differ -from each other. The declination of the dipping-needle, when set upon -shore in Success Bay, was 68° 15ʹ below the horizon. - -Between Streight Le Maire and Cape Horn we found a current setting, -generally very strong, to the N. E. when we were in with the shore; but -lost it when we were at the distance of fifteen or twenty leagues. - -On the 26th January, we took our departure from Cape Horn, which lies in -latitude 55° 53ʹ S. longitude, 68° 13ʹ W. The farthest southern latitude -that we made was 60° 10ʹ, our longitude was then 74° 30ʹ W.; and we -found the variation of the compass, by the mean of eighteen azimuths, to -be 27° 9ʹ E. As the weather was frequently calm, Mr. Banks went out in a -small boat to shoot birds, among which were some albatrosses and -sheerwaters. The albatrosses were observed to be larger than those which -had been taken northward of the Streight; one of them measured ten feet -two inches from the tip of one wing to that of the other, when they were -extended: the sheerwater, on the contrary, is less, and darker coloured -on the back. The albatrosses we skinned, and having soaked them in -salt-water till the morning, we parboiled them, then throwing away the -liquor, stewed them in a very little fresh water till they were tender, -and had them served up with savoury sauce; thus dressed, the dish was -universally commended, and we eat of it very heartily even when there -was fresh pork upon the table. - -From a variety of observations which were made with great care, it -appeared probable in the highest degree, that, from the time of our -leaving the land to the 13th of February, when we were in latitude 49° -32ʹ, and longitude 90° 37ʹ, we had no current to the west. - -At this time we had advanced about 12° to the westward, and 3 and ½ to -the northward of the Streight of Magellan; having been just three and -thirty days in coming round the land of Terra del Fuego, or Cape Horn, -from the east entrance of the Streight to this situation. And though the -doubling of Cape Horn is so much dreaded, that, in the general opinion, -it is more eligible to pass through the Streight of Magellan, we were -not once brought under our close-reef’d topsails after we left the -Streight of Le Maire. The Dolphin, in her last voyage, which she -performed at the same season of the year with ours, was three months in -getting through the Streight of Magellan, exclusive of the time that she -lay in Port Famine; and I am persuaded, from the winds we had, that if -we had come by that passage, we should not at this time have been in -these seas; that our people would have been fatigued, and our anchors, -cables, sails and rigging much damaged; neither of which inconveniencies -we had now suffered. But supposing it more eligible to go round the -Cape, than through the Streight of Magellan; it may still be questioned, -whether it is better to go through the Streight of Le Maire, or stand to -the eastward, and go round Staten Land. The advice given in the Account -of Lord Anson’s voyage is, “That all ships bound to the South Seas, -instead of passing through the Streight of Le Maire, should constantly -pass to the eastward of Staten Land, and should be invariably bent on -running to the southward as far as the latitude of 61 or 62 degrees, -before they endeavour to stand to the westward.” But, in my opinion, -different circumstances may at one time render it eligible to pass -through the Streight, and to keep to the eastward of Staten Land at -another. If the land is fallen in with to the westward of the Streight, -and the wind is favourable for going through, I think it would be very -injudicious to lose time by going round Staten Land, as I am confident -that, by attending to the directions which I have given, the Streight -may be passed with the utmost safety and convenience. But if, on the -contrary, the land is fallen in with to the eastward of the Streight, -and the wind should prove tempestuous or unfavourable, I think it would -be best to go round Staten Land. But I cannot in any case concur in -recommending the running into the latitude of 61 or 62, before any -endeavour is made to stand to the westward. We found neither the current -nor the storms which the running so far to the southward is supposed -necessary to avoid; and, indeed, as the winds almost constantly blow -from that quarter, it is scarcely possible to pursue the advice. The -navigator has no choice but to stand to the southward, close upon a -wind, and by keeping upon that tack, he will not only make southing, but -westing; and, if the wind varies towards the north of the west, his -westing will be considerable. It will, indeed, be highly proper to make -sure of a westing sufficient to double all the lands, before an attempt -is made to stand to the northward, and to this every man’s own prudence -will of necessity direct him. - -We now began to have strong gales and heavy seas, with irregular -intervals of calm and fine weather. - - - - - CHAP. VII. - -THE SEQUEL OF THE PASSAGE FROM CAPE HORN TO THE NEWLY DISCOVERED ISLANDS - IN THE SOUTH SEAS, WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THEIR FIGURE AND APPEARANCE; - SOME ACCOUNT OF THE INHABITANTS, AND SEVERAL INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED - DURING THE COURSE, AND AT THE SHIP’S ARRIVAL AMONG THEM. - - -ON the first of March, we were in latitude 38° 44ʹ S. and longitude 110° -33ʹ W. both by observation and by the log. This agreement, after a run -of 660 leagues, was thought to be very extraordinary; and is a -demonstration, that after we left the land of Cape Horn we had no -current that affected the ship. It renders it also highly probable, that -we had been near no land of any considerable extent; for currents are -always found when land is not remote, and sometimes, particularly on the -east side of the continent in the North Sea, when land has been distant -100 leagues. - -Many birds, as usual, were constantly about the ship, so that Mr. Banks -killed no less than 62 in one day; and what is more remarkable, he -caught two forest flies, both of them of the same species, but different -from any that have hitherto been described; these probably belonged to -the birds, and came with them from the land, which we judged to be at a -great distance. Mr. Banks also, about this time, found a large -cuttle-fish, which had just been killed by the birds, floating in a -mangled condition upon the water; it is very different from the -cuttle-fishes that are found in the European seas; for its arms, instead -of suckers, were furnished with a double row of very sharp talons, which -resemble those of a cat, and, like them, were retractable into a sheath -of skin, from which they might be thrust at pleasure. Of this -cuttle-fish we made one of the best soups we had ever tasted. - -The albatrosses now began to leave us, and after the 8th there was not -one to be seen. We continued our course without any memorable event till -the 24th, when some of the people who were upon the watch in the night, -reported that they saw a log of wood pass by the ship; and that the sea, -which was rather rough, became suddenly as smooth as a mill pond. It was -a general opinion that there was land to windward; but I did not think -myself at liberty to search for what I was not sure to find; though I -judged we were not far from the islands that were discovered by Quiros -in 1606. Our latitude was 22° 11ʹ S. and longitude 127° 55ʹ W. - -On the 25th, about noon, one of the marines, a young fellow about -twenty, was placed as centry at the cabin-door; while he was upon this -duty, one of my servants was at the same place preparing to cut a piece -of seal-skin into tobacco pouches: he had promised one to several of the -men, but had refused one to this young fellow, though he had asked him -several times; upon which he jocularly threatened to steal one, if it -should be in his power. It happened that the servant being called -hastily away, gave the skin in charge to the centinel, without regarding -what had passed between them. The centinel immediately secured a piece -of the skin, which the other missing at his return, grew angry; but -after some altercation, contented himself with taking it away, declaring -that, for so trifling an affair, he would not complain of him to the -officers. But it happened that one of his fellow-soldiers, over-hearing -the dispute, came to the knowledge of what had happened, and told it to -the rest; who, taking it into their heads to stand up for the honour of -their corps, reproached the offender with great bitterness, and reviled -him in the most opprobrious terms; they exaggerated his offence into a -crime of the deepest dye; they said it was a theft by a centry when he -was upon duty, and of a thing that had been committed to his trust; they -declared it a disgrace to associate with him; and the serjeant, in -particular, said that, if the person from whom the skin had been stolen -would not complain, he would complain himself; for that his honour would -suffer if the offender was not punished. From the scoffs and reproaches -of these men of honour, the poor young fellow retired to his hammock in -an agony of confusion and shame. The serjeant soon after went to him, -and ordered him to follow him to the deck: he obeyed without reply; but -it being in the dusk of the evening, he slipped from the serjeant and -went forward: he was seen by some of the people, who thought he was gone -to the head; but a search being made for him afterwards, it was found -that he had thrown himself overboard; and I was then first made -acquainted with the theft and its circumstances. - -The loss of this man was the more regretted as he was remarkably quiet -and industrious, and as the very action that put an end to his life was -a proof of an ingenuous mind; for to such only disgrace is -insupportable. - -On Tuesday the 4th of April, about ten o’clock in the morning, Mr. -Banks’s servant, Peter Briscoe, discovered land, bearing south, at the -distance of about three or four leagues. I immediately hauled up for it, -and found it to be an island of an oval form, with a lagoon in the -middle, which occupied much the larger part of it; the border of land -which circumscribes the lagoon is in many places very low and narrow, -particularly on the south side, where it consists principally of a beach -or reef of rocks. It has the same appearance also in three places on the -north side; so that the firm land being disjoined, the whole looks like -many islands covered with wood. On the west end of the island is a large -tree, or clump of trees, that in appearance resembles a tower; and about -the middle are two cocoa-nut trees, which rise above all the rest, and, -as we came near to the island, appeared like a flag. We approached it on -the north side, and though we came within a mile, we found no bottom -with 130 fathom of line, nor did there appear to be any anchorage about -it. The whole is covered with trees of different verdure, but we could -distinguish none, even with our glasses, except cocoa-nuts and -palm-nuts. We saw several of the natives upon the shore, and counted -four and twenty. They appeared to be tall, and to have heads remarkably -large; perhaps they had something wound round them which we could not -distinguish; they were of a copper colour, and had long black hair. -Eleven of them walked along the beach abreast of the ship, with poles or -pikes in their hands which reached twice as high as themselves. While -they walked on the beach they seemed to be naked; but soon after they -retired, which they did as soon as the ship had passed the island, they -covered themselves with something that made them appear of a light -colour. Their habitations were under some clumps of palm-nut trees, -which at a distance appeared like high ground; and to us, who for a long -time had seen nothing but water and sky, except the dreary hills of -Terra del Fuego, these groves seemed a terrestrial paradise. To this -spot, which lies in latitude 18° 47ʺ S., and longitude 139° 28ʹ W. we -gave the name of LAGOON ISLAND. The variation of the needle here is 2° -54ʹ E. - -About one o’clock we made sail to the westward, and about half an hour -after three we saw land again to the N. W. We got up with it at sunset, -and it proved to be a low woody island, of a circular form, and not much -above a mile in compass. We discovered no inhabitants, nor could we -distinguish any cocoa-nut trees, though we were within half a mile of -the shore. The land, however, was covered with verdure of many hues. It -lies in latitude 18° 35ʹ S., and longitude 139° 48ʹ W., and is distant -from Lagoon Island, in the direction of N. 62 W., about seven leagues. -We called it THRUMB-CAP. I discovered by the appearance of the shore, -that at this place it was low water; and I had observed at Lagoon -Island, that it was either high water, or that the sea neither ebbed nor -flowed. I infer, therefore, that a S. by E. or S. moon makes high water. - -We went on with a fine trade-wind and pleasant weather, and on the 5th, -about three in the afternoon, we discovered land to the westward. It -proved to be a low island of much greater extent than either of those -that we had seen before, being about ten or twelve leagues in compass. -Several of us remained at the mast-head the whole evening, admiring its -extraordinary figure: it was shaped exactly like a bow, the arch and -cord of which were land, and the space between them water: the cord was -a flat beach, without any signs of vegetation, having nothing upon it -but heaps of sea-weed, which lay in different ridges, as higher or lower -tides had left them. It appeared to be about three or four leagues long, -and not more than two hundred yards wide; but as a horizontal plane is -always seen in perspective, and greatly foreshortened, it is certainly -much wider than it appeared: the horns, or extremities of the bow, were -two large tufts of cocoa-nut trees; and much the greater part of the -arch was covered with trees of different height, figure, and hue; in -some parts, however, it was naked and low, like the cord. Some of us -thought they discovered openings through the cord, into the pool or -lake, that was included between that and the bow; but whether there were -or were not such openings is uncertain. We sailed abreast of the low -beach or bow-string, within less than a league of the shore, till -sunset, and we then judged ourselves to be about half-way between the -two horns. Here we brought to, and sounded, but found no bottom with one -hundred and thirty fathom; and, as it is dark almost instantly after -sunset in these latitudes, we suddenly lost sight of the land, and -making sail again, before the line was well hauled in, we steered by the -sound of the breakers, which were distinctly heard till we got clear of -the coast. - -We knew this island to be inhabited, by smoke which we saw in different -parts of it, and we gave it the name of BOW ISLAND. Mr. Gore, my second -lieutenant, said, after we had sailed by the island, that he had seen -several of the natives, under the first clump of trees, from the deck; -that he had distinguished their houses, and seen several canoes hauled -up under the shade; but in this he was more fortunate than any other -person on board. The east end of this island, which, from its figure, we -called the Bow, lies in latitude 18° 23ʹ S., and longitude 141° 12ʹ W.; -we observed the variation of the compass to be 5° 38ʹ E. - -On the next day, Thursday the 6th, about noon, we saw land again to the -westward, and came up with it about three. It appeared to be two -islands, or rather groups of islands, extending from N. W. by N. to S. -E. by S. about nine leagues. Of these, the two largest were separated -from each other by a channel of about half a mile broad, and were -severally surrounded by smaller islands, to which they were joined by -reefs that lay under water. - -These islands were long narrow strips of land, ranging in all -directions, some of them ten miles or upwards in length, but none more -than a quarter of a mile broad, and upon all of them there were trees of -various kinds, particularly the cocoa-nut. The south-eastermost of them -lies in the latitude of 18° 12ʹ S. and longitude 142° 42ʹ W., and at the -distance of twenty-five leagues in the direction of W. ½ N. from the -west end of Bow Island. We ranged along the S. W. side of this island, -and hauled into a bay which lies to the N. W. of the southermost point -of the Group, where there was a smooth sea, and the appearance of -anchorage, without much surf on the shore. We sounded, but we found no -bottom with one hundred fathom, at the distance of no more than three -quarters of a mile from the beach; and I did not think it prudent to go -nearer. - -While this was doing, several of the inhabitants assembled upon the -shore, and some came out in their canoes as far as the reefs, but would -not pass them. When we saw this, we ranged, with an easy sail, along the -shore; but just as we were passing the end of the island, six men, who -had for some time kept abreast of the ship, suddenly launched two canoes -with great quickness and dexterity, and three of them getting into each, -they put off, as we imagined, with a design to come on board us; the -ship was therefore brought to, but they, like their fellows, stopped at -the reef. We did not, however, immediately make sail, as we observed two -messengers dispatched to them from the other canoes, which were of a -much larger size. We perceived that these messengers made great -expedition, wading and swimming along the reef; at length they met, and -the men on board the canoes making no dispositions to pass the reef, -after having received the message, we judged that they had resolved to -come no farther. After waiting, therefore, some little time longer, we -stood off; but when we were got about two or three miles from the shore, -we perceived some of the natives following us in a canoe with a sail. We -did not, however, think it worth while to wait for her, and though she -had passed the reef, she soon after gave over the chace. - -According to the best judgment that we could form of the people when we -were nearest the shore, they were about our size, and well-made. They -were of a brown-complexion, and appeared to be naked; their hair, which -was black, was confined by a fillet that went round the head, and stuck -out behind like a bush. The greater part of them carried in their hands -two weapons; one of them was a slender pole, from ten to fourteen feet -long, on one end of which was a small knob, not unlike the point of a -spear; the other was about four feet long, and shaped like a paddle, and -possibly might be so, for some of their canoes were very small: those -which we saw them launch seemed not intended to carry more than the -three men that got into them: we saw others that had on board six or -seven men, and one of them hoisted a sail which did not seem to reach -more than six feet above the gun-wale of the boat, and which, upon the -falling of a slight shower, was taken down and converted into an awning -or tilt. The canoe which followed us to sea hoisted a sail not unlike an -English lug-sail, and almost as lofty as an English boat of the same -size would have carried. - -The people, who kept abreast of the ship on the beach, made many -signals; but whether they were intended to frighten us away, or invite -us on shore, it is not easy to determine: we returned them by waving our -hats and shouting, and they replied by shouting again. We did not put -their disposition to the test, by attempting to land; because, as the -island was inconsiderable, and as we wanted nothing that it could -afford, we thought it imprudent as well as cruel to risk a contest, in -which the natives must have suffered by our superiority, merely to -gratify an idle curiosity; especially as we expected soon to fall in -with the island where we had been directed to make our astronomical -observation, the inhabitants of which would probably admit us without -opposition, as they were already acquainted with our strength, and might -also procure us a ready and peaceable reception among the neighbouring -people, if we should desire it. - -To these islands we gave the name of THE GROUPS. - -On the 7th, about half an hour after six in the morning, being just at -day-break, we discovered another island to the northward, which we -judged to be about four miles in circumference. The land lay very low, -and there was a piece of water in the middle of it; there seemed to be -some wood upon it, and it looked green and pleasant; but we saw neither -cocoa-trees nor inhabitants: it abounded, however, with birds, and we -therefore gave it the name of BIRD ISLAND. - -It lies in latitude 17° 48ʹ S. and longitude 143° 35ʹ W. at the distance -of ten leagues, in the direction W. ½ N. from the west end of the -Groups. The variation here was 6° 32ʹ E. - -On the 8th, about two o’clock in the afternoon, we saw land to the -northward, and about sunset came abreast of it, at about the distance of -two leagues. It appeared to be a double range of low woody islands -joined together by reefs, so as to form one island, in the form of an -ellipsis or oval, with a lake in the middle of it. The small islands and -reefs that circumscribe the lake have the appearance of a chain, and we -therefore gave it the name of CHAIN ISLAND. Its length seemed to be -about five leagues, in the direction of N. W. and S. E., and its breadth -about five miles. The trees upon it appeared to be large, and we saw -smoke rising in different parts of it from among them, a certain sign -that it was inhabited. The middle of it lies in latitude 17° 23ʹ S. and -longitude 145° 54ʹ W., and is distant from Bird Island forty-five -leagues, in the direction of W. by N. The variation here was, by several -azimuths, found to be 4° 54ʹ E. - -On the 10th, having had a tempestuous night with thunder and rain, the -weather was hazy till about nine o’clock in the morning, when it cleared -up, and we saw the island to which Captain Wallis, who first discovered -it, gave the name of Osnaburgh Island, called by the natives _Maitea_, -bearing N. W. by W. distant about five leagues. It is a high round -island, not above a league in circuit; in some parts it is covered with -trees, and in others a naked rock. In this direction it looked like a -high-crowned hat; but when it bears north, the top of it has more the -appearance of the roof of a house. We made its latitude to be 17° 48ʹ S. -its longitude 148° 10ʹ W., and its distance from Chain Island forty-four -leagues, in the direction of W. by S. - - - - - CHAP. VIII. - -THE ARRIVAL OF THE ENDEAVOUR AT OTAHEITE, CALLED BY CAPTAIN WALLIS KING - GEORGE THE THIRD’S ISLAND.—RULES ESTABLISHED FOR TRAFFIC WITH THE - NATIVES, AND AN ACCOUNT OF SEVERAL INCIDENTS WHICH HAPPENED IN A VISIT - TO TOOTAHAH AND TOUBOURAI TAMAIDA, TWO CHIEFS. - - -ABOUT one o’clock, on Monday the 10th of April, some of the people who -were looking out for the island to which we were bound, said they saw -land a-head, in that part of the horizon where it was expected to -appear; but it was so faint that whether there was land in sight or not, -remained a matter of dispute till sunset. The next morning, however, at -six o’clock, we were convinced that those who said they had discovered -land were not mistaken; it appeared to be very high and mountainous, -extending from W. by S. ½ S. to W. by N. ½ N., and we knew it to be the -same that Captain Wallis had called King George the Third’s Island. We -were delayed in our approach to it by light airs and calms, so that in -the morning of the 12th we were but little nearer than we had been the -night before; but about seven a breeze sprung up, and before eleven -several canoes were seen making towards the ship: there were but few of -them, however, that would come near; and the people in those that did -could not be persuaded to come on board. In every canoe there were young -plantains, and branches of a tree which the Indians call _E’ Midho_: -these, as we afterwards learnt, were brought as tokens of peace and -amity; and the people in one of the canoes handed them up the ship’s -side, making signals at the same time with great earnestness, which we -did not immediately understand; at length we guessed that they wished -these symbols should be placed in some conspicuous part of the ship; we, -therefore, immediately stuck them among the rigging, at which they -expressed the greatest satisfaction. We then purchased their cargoes, -consisting of cocoa-nuts, and various kinds of fruit, which, after our -long voyage, were very acceptable. - -[Illustration: _The Island of Otaheite._] - -We stood on with an easy sail all night, with soundings from twenty-two -fathom to twelve, and about seven o’clock in the morning we came to an -anchor in thirteen fathom, in Port-royal Bay, called by the natives -_Matavai_. We were immediately surrounded by the natives in their -canoes, who gave us cocoa-nuts, fruit resembling apples, bread-fruit, -and some small fishes, in exchange for beads and other trifles. They had -with them a pig, which they would not part with for any thing but a -hatchet, and therefore we refused to purchase it; because if we gave -them a hatchet for a pig now, we knew they would never afterwards sell -one for less, and we could not afford to buy as many as it was probable -we should want at that price. The bread-fruit grows on a tree that is -about the size of a middling oak: its leaves are frequently a foot and a -half long, of an oblong shape, deeply sinuated like those of the -fig-tree, which they resemble in consistence and colour, and in the -exuding of a white milky juice upon being broken. The fruit is about the -size and shape of a child’s head, and the surface is reticulated, not -much unlike a truffle: it is covered with a thin skin, and has a core -about as big as the handle of a small knife: the eatable part lies -between the skin and the core: it is as white as snow, and somewhat of -the consistence of new bread: it must be roasted before it is eaten, -being first divided into three or four parts: its taste is insipid, with -a slight sweetness, somewhat resembling that of the crumb of -wheaten-bread mixed with a Jerusalem artichoke. - -Among others who came off to the ship was an elderly man, whose name, as -we learnt afterwards, was OWHAW and who was immediately known to Mr. -Gore, and several others who had been here with Captain Wallis. As I was -informed that he had been very useful to them, I took him on board the -ship with some others, and was particularly attentive to gratify him, as -I hoped he might also be useful to us. - -As our stay here was not likely to be very short, and as it was -necessary that the merchandize which we had brought for traffic with the -natives should not diminish in its value, which it would certainly have -done if every person had been left at liberty to give what he pleased -for such things as he should purchase; at the same time, that confusion -and quarrels must necessarily have arisen from there being no standard -at market, I drew up the following rules, and ordered that they should -be punctually observed:— - - -_Rules to be observed by every Person in or belonging to His Majesty’s - Bark the Endeavour, for the better establishing a regular and uniform - Trade for Provision, &c. with the Inhabitants of George’s Island._ - -“I. To endeavour, by every fair means, to cultivate a friendship with -the natives; and to treat them with all imaginable humanity. - -“II. A proper person or persons will be appointed to trade with the -natives for all manner of provisions, fruit, and other productions of -the earth; and no officer or seaman, or other person belonging to the -ship, excepting such as are so appointed, shall trade or offer to trade -for any sort of provision, fruit, or other productions of the earth, -unless they have leave so to do. - -“III. Every person employed on shore, on any duty whatsoever, is -strictly to attend to the same; and if by any neglect he loseth any of -his arms, or working tools, or suffers them to be stolen, the full value -thereof will be charged against his pay, according to the custom of the -navy in such cases; and he shall receive such farther punishment as the -nature of the offence may deserve. - -“IV. The same penalty will be inflicted on every person who is found to -embezzle, trade, or offer to trade, with any part of the ship’s stores -of what nature soever. - -“V. No sort of iron, or any thing that is made of iron, or any sort of -cloth, or other useful or necessary articles, are to be given in -exchange for any thing but provision. - - “J. COOK.” - -As soon as the ship was properly secured, I went on shore with Mr. Banks -and Dr. Solander, a party of men under arms, and our friend Owhaw. We -were received from the boat by some hundreds of the inhabitants, whose -looks at least gave us welcome, though they were struck with such awe, -that the first who approached us crouched so low that he almost crept -upon his hands and knees. It is remarkable that he, like the people in -the canoes, presented to us the same symbol of peace that is known to -have been in use among the ancient and mighty nations of the northern -hemisphere, the green branch of a tree. We received it with looks and -gestures of kindness and satisfaction; and observing that each of them -held one in his hand, we immediately gathered every one a bough, and -carried it in our hands in the same manner. - -They marched with us about half a mile towards the place where the -Dolphin had watered, conducted by Owhaw; they then made a full stop, and -having laid the ground bare, by clearing away all the plants that grew -upon it, the principal persons among them threw their green branches -upon the naked spot, and made signs that we should do the same; we -immediately showed our readiness to comply, and to give a greater -solemnity to the rite, the marines were drawn up, and marching in order, -each dropped his bough upon those of the Indians, and we followed their -example. We then proceeded, and when we came to the watering-place it -was intimated to us by signs, that we might occupy that ground, but it -happened not to be fit for our purpose. During our walk, they had shaken -off their first timid sense of our superiority, and were become -familiar: they went with us from the watering-place and took a circuit -through the woods; as we went along, we distributed beads and other -small presents among them, and had the satisfaction to see that they -were much gratified. Our circuit was not less than four or five miles, -through groves of trees, which were loaded with cocoa-nuts and -bread-fruit, and afforded the most grateful shade. Under these trees -were the habitations of the people, most of them being only a roof -without walls, and the whole scene realised the poetical fables of -Arcadia. We remarked, however, not without some regret, that in all our -walk we had seen only two hogs, and not a single fowl. Those of our -company who had been here with the Dolphin told us, that none of the -people whom we had yet seen were of the first class: they suspected that -the chiefs had removed; and upon carrying us to the place where what -they called the Queen’s palace had stood, we found that no traces of it -were left. We determined therefore to return in the morning, and -endeavour to find out the _noblesse_ in their retreats. - -In the morning, however, before we could leave the ship, several canoes -came about us, most of them from the westward, and two of them were -filled with people, who, by their dress and deportment, appeared to be -of a superior rank: two of these came on board, and each singled out his -friend; one of them, whose name we found to be MATAHAH, fixed upon Mr. -Banks, and the other upon me: this ceremony consisted in taking off -great part of their clothes and putting them upon us. In return for -this, we presented each of them with a hatchet and some beads. Soon -after they made signs for us to go with them to the places where they -lived, pointing to the S. W.; and as I was desirous of finding a more -commodious harbour, and making farther trial of the disposition of the -people, I consented. - -I ordered out two boats, and with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, the other -gentlemen, and our two Indian friends, we embarked for our expedition. -After rowing about a league, they made signs that we should go on shore, -and gave us to understand that this was the place of their residence. We -accordingly landed, among several hundreds of the natives, who conducted -us into a house of much greater length than any we had seen. When we -entered, we saw a middle-aged man, whose name was afterwards discovered -to be TOOTAHAH: mats were immediately spread, and we were desired to sit -down over against him. Soon after we were seated, he ordered a cock and -hen to be brought out, which he presented to Mr. Banks and me: we -accepted the present; and in a short time each of us received a piece of -cloth, perfumed after their manner, by no means disagreeably, which they -took great pains to make us remark. The piece presented to Mr. Banks was -eleven yards long and two wide; in return for which, he gave a laced -silk neckcloth, which he happened to have on, and a linen pocket -handkerchief: Tootahah immediately dressed himself in this new finery, -with an air of perfect complacency and satisfaction. But it is now time -that I should take some notice of the ladies. - -Soon after the interchanging of our presents with Tootahah, they -attended us to several large houses, in which we walked about with great -freedom: they showed us all the civility of which, in our situation, we -could accept; and, on their part, seemed to have no scruple that would -have prevented its being carried farther. The houses, which, as I have -observed before, are all open, except a roof, afforded no place of -retirement; but the ladies, by frequently pointing to the mats upon the -ground, and sometimes seating themselves and drawing us down upon them, -left us no room to doubt of their being much less jealous of observation -than we were. - -We now took leave of our friendly chief, and directed our course along -the shore. When we had walked about a mile, we met, at the head of a -great number of people, another chief, whose name was TOUBOURAI TAMAIDE, -with whom we were also to ratify a treaty of peace, with the ceremony of -which we were now become better acquainted. Having received the branch -which he presented to us, and given another in return, we laid our hands -upon our left breasts, and pronounced the word _Taio_, which we supposed -to signify friend; the chief then gave us to understand, that if we -chose to eat, he had victuals ready for us. We accepted his offer, and -dined very heartily upon fish, bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and plantains, -dressed after their manner: they eat some of their fish raw; and raw -fish was offered to us, but we declined that part of the entertainment. - -During this visit a wife of our noble host, whose name was TOMIO, did -Mr. Banks the honour to place herself upon the same mat, close by him. -Tomio was not in the first bloom of her youth, nor did she appear to -have been ever remarkable for her beauty; he did not, therefore, I -believe, pay her the most flattering attention: it happened, too, as a -farther mortification to this lady, that seeing a very pretty girl among -the crowd, he, not adverting to the dignity of his companion, beckoned -her to come to him: the girl, after some entreaty, complied, and sat -down on the other side of him: he loaded her with beads, and every showy -trifle that would please her: his princess, though she was somewhat -mortified at the preference that was given to her rival, did not -discontinue her civilities, but still assiduously supplied him with the -milk of the cocoa-nut, and such other dainties as were in her reach. -This scene might possibly have become more curious and interesting, if -it had not been suddenly interrupted by an interlude of a more serious -kind. Just at this time, Dr. Solander and Mr. Monkhouse complained that -their pockets had been picked. Dr. Solander had lost an opera-glass in a -shagreen case, and Mr. Monkhouse his snuff-box. This incident -unfortunately put an end to the good humour of the company. Complaint of -the injury was made to the chief; and, to give it weight, Mr. Banks -started up, and hastily struck the but-end of his firelock upon the -ground: this action, and the noise that accompanied it, struck the whole -assembly with a panic; and every one of the natives ran out of the house -with the utmost precipitation, except the chief, three women, and two or -three others, who appeared by their dress to be of a superior rank. - -The chief, with a mixture of confusion and concern, took Mr. Banks by -the hand, and led him to a large quantity of cloth, which lay at the -other end of the house: this he offered to him piece by piece, -intimating by signs, that if that would atone for the wrong which had -been done, he might take any part of it, or, if he pleased, the whole. -Mr. Banks put it by, and gave him to understand, that he wanted nothing -but what had been dishonestly taken away. Toubourai Tamaide then went -hastily out, leaving Mr. Banks with his wife Tomio, who, during the -whole scene of terror and confusion, had kept constantly at his side, -and intimating his desire that he should wait there till his return. Mr. -Banks accordingly sat down, and conversed with her, as well as he could -by signs, about half an hour. The chief then came back with the -snuff-box and the case of the opera-glass in his hand, and, with a joy -in his countenance that was painted with a strength of expression which -distinguishes these people from all others, delivered them to the -owners. The case of the opera-glass, however, upon being opened, was -found to be empty; upon this discovery, his countenance changed in a -moment; and catching Mr. Banks again by the hand, he rushed out of the -house, without uttering any sound, and led him along the shore, walking -with great rapidity: when they had got about a mile from the house, a -woman met him and gave him a piece of cloth, which he hastily took from -her, and continued to press forward with it in his hand. Dr. Solander -and Mr. Monkhouse had followed them, and they came at length to a house -where they were received by a woman, to whom he gave the cloth, and -intimated to the gentlemen that they should give her some beads. They -immediately complied; and the beads and cloth being deposited upon the -floor, the woman went out, and in about half an hour returned with the -opera-glass, expressing the same joy upon the occasion that had before -been expressed by the chief. The beads were now returned, with an -inflexible resolution not to accept them; and the cloth was, with the -same pertinacity, forced upon Dr. Solander, as a recompence for the -injury that had been done him. He could not avoid accepting the cloth, -but insisted in his turn upon giving a new present of beads to the -woman. It will not, perhaps, be easy to account for all the steps that -were taken in the recovery of this glass and snuff-box; but this cannot -be thought strange, considering that the scene of action was among a -people whose language, policy, and connections, are even now but -imperfectly known; upon the whole, however, they show an intelligence -and influence which would do honour to any system of government, however -regular and improved. In the evening, about six o’clock, we returned to -the ship. - - - - - CHAP. IX. - - A PLACE FIXED UPON FOR AN OBSERVATORY AND FORT: AN EXCURSION INTO THE - WOODS, AND ITS CONSEQUENCES.—THE FORT ERECTED: A VISIT FROM SEVERAL - CHIEFS ON BOARD AND AT THE FORT, WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF THE MUSIC OF THE - NATIVES, AND THE MANNER IN WHICH THEY DISPOSE OF THEIR DEAD. - - -ON the next morning, Saturday the 15th, several of the chiefs whom we -had seen the day before came on board, and brought with them hogs, -bread-fruit, and other refreshments, for which we gave them hatchets and -linen, and such things as seemed to be most acceptable. - -As in my excursion to the westward, I had not found any more convenient -harbour than that in which we lay, I determined to go on shore and fix -upon some spot, commanded by the ship’s guns, where I might throw up a -small fort for our defence, and prepare for making our astronomical -observation. - -I therefore took a party of men, and landed without delay, accompanied -by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and the astronomer, Mr. Green. We soon fixed -upon a part of the sandy beach, on the N. E. point of the bay, which was -in every respect convenient for our purpose, and not near any habitation -of the natives. Having marked out the ground that we intended to occupy, -a small tent belonging to Mr. Banks was set up, which had been brought -on shore for that purpose: by this time a great number of the people had -gathered about us; but, as it appeared, only to look on, there not being -a single weapon of any kind among them. I intimated, however, that none -of them were to come within the line I had drawn, except one who -appeared to be a chief, and Owhaw. To these two persons I addressed -myself by signs, and endeavoured to make them understand, that we wanted -the ground which we had marked out to sleep upon for a certain number of -nights, and that then we should go away. Whether I was understood I -cannot certainly determine; but the people behaved with a deference and -respect that at once pleased and surprised us: they sat down peaceably -without the circle, and looked on, without giving us any interruption -till we had done, which was upwards of two hours. As we had seen no -poultry, and but two hogs, in our walk when we were last on shore at -this place, we suspected that, upon our arrival, they had been driven -farther up the country; and the rather, as Owhaw was very importunate -with us, by signs, not to go into the woods, which, however, and partly -for these reasons, we were determined to do. Having therefore appointed -the thirteen marines and a petty officer to guard the tent, we set out, -and a great number of the natives joined our party. As we were crossing -a little river that lay in our way we saw some ducks, and Mr. Banks, as -soon as he had got over, fired at them, and happened to kill three at -one shot: this struck them with the utmost terror, so that most of them -fell suddenly to the ground, as if they also had been shot at the same -discharge: it was not long, however, before they recovered from their -fright, and we continued our route; but we had not gone far before we -were alarmed by the report of two pieces, which were fired by the guard -at the tent. We had then straggled a little distance from each other, -but Owhaw immediately called us together, and by waving his hand sent -away every Indian who followed us except three each of whom, as a pledge -of peace on their part, and an entreaty that there might be peace on -ours, hastily broke a branch from the trees, and came to us with it in -their hands. As we had too much reason to fear that some mischief had -happened, we hasted back to the tent, which was not distant above half a -mile, and when we came up, we found it entirely deserted, except by our -own people. - -It appeared that one of the Indians who remained about the tent after we -left it had watched his opportunity, and, taking the sentry unawares, -had snatched away his musket. Upon this, the petty officer, a -midshipman, who commanded the party, perhaps from a sudden fear of -farther violence, perhaps from the natural petulance of power newly -acquired, and perhaps from a brutality in his nature, ordered the -marines to fire: the men, with as little consideration or humanity as -the officer, immediately discharged their pieces among the thickest of -the flying crowd, consisting of more than a hundred; and observing that -the thief did not fall, pursued him, and shot him dead. We afterwards -learnt that none of the others were either killed or wounded. - -Owhaw, who had never left us, observing that we were now totally -deserted, got together a few of those who had fled, though not without -some difficulty, and ranged them about us: we endeavoured to justify our -people as well as we could, and to convince the Indians that if they did -no wrong to us, we should do no wrong to them: they went away without -any appearance of distrust or resentment; and having struck our tent, we -returned to the ship, but by no means satisfied with the transactions of -the day. - -Upon questioning our people more particularly, whose conduct they soon -perceived we could not approve, they alleged that the sentinel whose -musket was taken away was violently assaulted and thrown down, and that -a push was afterwards made at him by the man who took the musket, before -any command was given to fire. It was also suggested, that Owhaw had -suspicions, at least, if not certain knowledge, that something would be -attempted against our people at the tent, which made him so very earnest -in his endeavours to prevent our leaving it; others imputed his -importunity to his desire that we should confine ourselves to the beach; -and it was remarked that neither Owhaw nor the chiefs who remained with -us after he had sent the rest of the people away would have inferred the -breach of peace from the firing at the tent, if they had had no reason -to suspect that some injury had been offered by their countrymen; -especially as Mr. Banks had just fired at the ducks: and yet that they -did infer a breach of peace from that incident was manifest from their -waving their hands for the people to disperse, and instantly pulling -green branches from the trees. But what were the real circumstances of -this unhappy affair, and whether either and which of these conjectures -were true, can never certainly be known. - -The next morning but few of the natives were seen upon the beach, and -not one of them came off to the ship. This convinced us that our -endeavours to quiet their apprehensions had not been effectual; and we -remarked with particular regret, that we were deserted even by Owhaw, -who had hitherto been so constant in his attachment, and so active in -renewing the peace that had been broken. - -Appearances being thus unfavourable, I warped the ship nearer to the -shore, and moored her in such a manner as to command all the N. E. part -of the bay, particularly the place which I had marked out for the -building a fort. In the evening, however, I went on shore with only a -boat’s crew, and some of the gentlemen: the natives gathered about us, -but not in the same number as before: there were, I believe, between -thirty and forty, and they trafficked with us for cocoa-nuts and other -fruit, to all appearance as friendly as ever. - -On the 17th, early in the morning, we had the misfortune to lose Mr. -Buchan, the person whom Mr. Banks had brought out as a painter of -landscapes and figures. He was a sober, diligent, and ingenious young -man, and greatly regretted by Mr. Banks; who hoped, by his means, to -have gratified his friends in England with representations of this -country and its inhabitants, which no other person on board could -delineate with the same accuracy and elegance. He had always been -subject to epileptic fits, one of which seized him on the mountains of -Terra del Fuego, and this disorder being aggravated by a bilious -complaint which he contracted on board the ship, at length put an end to -his life. It was at first proposed to bury him on shore, but Mr. Banks -thinking that it might perhaps give offence to the natives, with whose -customs we were then wholly unacquainted, we committed his body to the -sea, with as much decency and solemnity as our circumstances and -situation would admit. - -In the forenoon of this day we received a visit from Tubourai Tamaide -and Tootahah, our chiefs, from the west: they brought with them, as -emblems of peace, not branches of plantain, but two young trees, and -would not venture on board till these had been received, having probably -been alarmed by the mischief which had been done at the tent. Each of -them also brought, as propitiatory gifts, some bread-fruit, and a hog -ready dressed: this was a most acceptable present, as we perceived that -hogs were not always to be got; and in return we gave to each of our -noble benefactors a hatchet and a nail. In the evening we went on shore -and set up a tent, in which Mr. Green and myself spent the night, in -order to observe an eclipse of the first satellite of Jupiter; but the -weather becoming cloudy, we were disappointed. - -On the 18th, at day-break, I went on shore, with as many people as could -possibly be spared from the ship, and began to erect our fort. While -some were employed in throwing up intrenchments, others were busy in -cutting pickets and fascines, which the natives, who soon gathered round -us as they had been used to do, were so far from hindering, that many of -them voluntarily assisted us, bringing the pickets and fascines from the -wood where they had been cut, with great alacrity: we had, indeed, been -so scrupulous of invading their property, that we purchased every stake -which was used upon this occasion, and cut down no tree till we had -first obtained their consent. The soil where we constructed our fort was -sandy, and this made it necessary to strengthen the intrenchments with -wood; three sides were to be fortified in this manner; the fourth was -bounded by a river, upon the banks of which I proposed to place a proper -number of water-casks. This day we served pork to the ship’s company for -the first time, and the Indians brought down so much bread-fruit and -cocoa-nuts, that we found it necessary to send away part of them -unbought, and to acquaint them by signs, that we should want no more for -two days to come. Every thing was purchased this day with beads: a -single bead, as big as a pea, being the purchase of five or six -cocoa-nuts, and as many of the bread-fruit. Mr. Banks’s tent was got up -before night within the works, and he slept on shore for the first time. -Proper sentries were placed round it, but no Indian attempted to -approach it the whole night. - -The next morning, our friend Tubourai Tamaide made Mr. Banks a visit at -the tent, and brought with him not only his wife and family, but the -roof of a house, and several materials for setting it up, with furniture -and implements of various kinds, intending, as we understood him, to -take up his residence in our neighbourhood: this instance of his -confidence and good-will gave us great pleasure, and we determined to -strengthen his attachment to us by every means in our power. Soon after -his arrival, he took Mr. Banks by the hand, and leading him out of the -line, signified that he should accompany him into the woods. Mr. Banks -readily consented, and having walked with him about a quarter of a mile, -they arrived at a kind of awning which he had already set up, and which -seemed to be his occasional habitation. Here he unfolded a bundle of his -country cloth, and taking out two garments, one of red cloth, and the -other of very neat matting, he clothed Mr. Banks in them, and without -any other ceremony, immediately conducted him back to the tent. His -attendants soon after brought him some pork and bread-fruit, which he -ate, dipping his meat into salt water instead of sauce: after his meal -he retired to Mr. Banks’s bed, and slept about an hour. In the -afternoon, his wife Tomio brought to the tent a young man about -two-and-twenty years of age, of a very comely appearance, whom they both -seemed to acknowledge as their son, though we afterwards discovered that -he was not so. In the evening, this young man and another chief, who had -also paid us a visit, went away to the westward, but Tubourai Tamaide -and his wife returned to the awning in the skirts of the wood. - -Our surgeon, Mr. Monkhouse, having walked out this evening, reported, -that he had seen the body of the man who had been shot at the tents, -which he said was wrapped in cloth, and placed on a kind of bier, -supported by stakes, under a roof that seemed to have been set up for -the purpose: that near it were deposited some instruments of war and -other things, which he would particularly have examined but for the -stench of the body, which was intolerable. He said, that he saw also two -more sheds of the same kind, in one of which were the bones of a human -body that had lain till they were quite dry. We discovered afterwards, -that this was the way in which they usually disposed of their dead. - -A kind of market now began to be kept just without the lines, and was -plentifully supplied with every thing but pork. Tubourai Tamaide was our -constant guest, imitating our manners, even to the using of a knife and -fork, which he did very handily. - -As my curiosity was excited by Mr. Monkhouse’s account of the situation -of the man who had been shot, I took an opportunity to go with some -others to see it. I found the shed under which his body lay, close by -the house in which he resided when he was alive, some others being not -more than ten yards distant; it was about 15 feet long, and 11 broad, -and of a proportionable height: one end was wholly open, and the other -end, and the two sides, were partly enclosed with a kind of wicker work. -The bier on which the corpse was deposited, was a frame of wood like -that in which the sea-beds, called cotts, are placed, with a matted -bottom, and supported by four posts, at the height of about five feet -from the ground. The body was covered first with a mat, and then with -white cloth; by the side of it lay a wooden mace, one of their weapons -of war, and near the head of it, which lay next to the close end of the -shed, lay two cocoa-nut shells, such as are sometimes used to carry -water in; at the other end a bunch of green leaves, with some dried -twigs, all tied together, were stuck in the ground, by which lay a stone -about as big as a cocoa-nut: near these lay one of the young plantain -trees, which are used for emblems of peace, and close by it a stone axe. -At the open end of the shed also hung, in several strings, a great -number of palm-nuts, and without the shed was stuck upright in the -ground the stem of a plantain tree about five feet high, upon the top of -which was placed a cocoa-nut shell full of fresh water: against the side -of one of the posts hung a small bag, containing a few pieces of -bread-fruit ready roasted, which were not all put in at the same time, -for some of them were fresh, and others stale. I took notice that -several of the natives observed us with a mixture of solicitude and -jealousy in their countenances, and by their gestures expressed -uneasiness when we went near the body, standing themselves at a little -distance while we were making our examination, and appearing to be -pleased when we came away. - -Our residence on shore would by no means have been disagreeable if we -had not been incessantly tormented by the flies, which, among other -mischief, made it almost impossible for Mr. Parkinson, Mr. Banks’s -natural-history painter, to work; for they not only covered his subject -so as that no part of its surface could be seen, but even ate the colour -off the paper as fast as he could lay it on. We had recourse to -musquito-nets and fly-traps, which, though they made the inconvenience -tolerable, were very far from removing it. - -On the 22d, Tootahah gave us a specimen of the music of this country: -four persons performed upon flutes, which had only two stops, and -therefore could not sound more than four notes, by half tones: they were -sounded like our German flutes, except that the performer, instead of -applying it to his mouth, blew into it with one nostril, while he -stopped the other with his thumb: to these instruments four other -persons sung, and kept very good time; but only one tune was played -during the whole concert. - -Several of the natives brought us axes, which they had received from on -board the Dolphin, to grind and repair; but among others there was one -which became the subject of much speculation, as it appeared to be -French: after much enquiry, we learnt that a ship had been here between -our arrival and the departure of the Dolphin, which we then conjectured -to have been a Spaniard, but now know to have been the Boudeuse, -commanded by M. Bougainville. - - - - - CHAP. X. - - AN EXCURSION TO THE EASTWARD, AN ACCOUNT OF SEVERAL INCIDENTS THAT - HAPPENED BOTH ON BOARD AND ON SHORE, AND OF THE FIRST INTERVIEW WITH - OBEREA, THE PERSON WHO, WHEN THE DOLPHIN WAS HERE, WAS SUPPOSED TO BE - QUEEN OF THE ISLAND, WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THE FORT. - - -ON the 24th, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander examined the country for several -miles along the shore to the eastward: for about two miles it was flat -and fertile; after that, the hills stretched quite to the water’s edge, -and a little farther ran out into the sea, so that they were obliged to -climb over them. These hills, which were barren, continued for about -three miles more, and then terminated in a large plain, which was full -of good houses, and people who appeared to live in great affluence. In -this place there was a river, much more considerable than that at our -fort, which issued from a deep and beautiful valley, and, where our -travellers crossed it, though at some distance from the sea, was near -one hundred yards wide. About a mile beyond this river the country -became again barren, the rocks every where projecting into the sea, for -which reason they resolved to return. Just as they had formed this -resolution, one of the natives offered them refreshment, which they -accepted. They found this man to be of a kind that has been described by -various authors, as mixed with many nations, but distinct from them all. -His skin was of a dead white, without the least appearance of what is -called complexion, though some parts of his body were in a small degree -less white than others: his hair, eye-brows, and beard, were as white as -his skin; his eyes appeared as if they were bloodshot, and he seemed to -be very short-sighted. - -At their return they were met by Tubourai Tamaide, and his women, who, -at seeing them, felt a joy which, not being able to express, they burst -into tears, and wept some time before their passion could be restrained. - -This evening Dr. Solander lent his knife to one of these women, who -neglected to return it, and the next morning Mr. Banks’s also was -missing; upon this occasion I must bear my testimony, that the people of -this country, of all ranks, men and women, are the errantest thieves -upon the face of the earth. The very day after we arrived here, when -they came on board us, the chiefs were employed in stealing what they -could in the cabin, and their dependents were no less industrious in -other parts of the ship: they snatched up every thing that it was -possible for them to secrete till they got on shore, even to the glass -ports, two of which they carried off undetected. Tubourai Tamaide was -the only one except Tootahah who had not been found guilty; and the -presumption, arising from this circumstance, that he was exempt from a -vice, of which the whole nation besides were guilty, cannot be supposed -to outweigh strong appearances to the contrary. Mr. Banks, therefore, -though not without some reluctance, accused him of having stolen his -knife: he solemnly and steadily denied that he knew any thing of it; -upon which Mr. Banks made him understand, that whoever had taken it, he -was determined to have it returned: upon this resolute declaration, one -of the natives who was present produced a rag, in which three knives -were very carefully tied up. One was that which Dr. Solander had lent to -the woman, another was a table-knife belonging to me, and the owner of -the third was not known. With these the chief immediately set out, in -order to make restitution of them to their owners at the tents. Mr. -Banks remained with the women, who expressed great apprehensions that -some mischief was designed against their lord. When he came to the -tents, he restored one of the knives to Dr. Solander, and another to me, -the third not being owned, and then began to search for Mr. Banks’s in -all the places where he had ever seen it. After some time, one of Mr. -Banks’s servants, understanding what he was about, immediately fetched -his master’s knife, which it seems he had laid by the day before, and -till now knew nothing of its having been missed. Tubourai Tamaide, upon -this demonstration of his innocence, expressed the strongest emotions of -mind, both in his looks and gestures: the tears started from his eyes; -and he made signs with the knife, that, if he was ever guilty of such an -action as had been imputed to him, he would submit to have his throat -cut. He then rushed out of the lines, and returned hastily to Mr. Banks, -with a countenance that severely reproached him with his suspicions. Mr. -Banks soon understood that the knife had been received from his servant, -and was scarcely less affected at what had happened than the chief: he -felt himself to be the guilty person, and was very desirous to atone for -his fault. The poor Indian, however violent his passions, was a stranger -to sullen resentment; and upon Mr. Banks’s spending a little time -familiarly with him, and making him a few trifling presents, he forgot -the wrongs that had been done him, and was perfectly reconciled. - -Upon this occasion it may be observed, that these people have a -knowledge of right and wrong from the mere dictates of natural -conscience; and involuntarily condemn themselves when they do that to -others which they would condemn others for doing to them. That Tubourai -Tamaide felt the force of moral obligation is certain; for the -imputation of an action which he considered as indifferent would not, -when it appeared to be groundless, have moved him with such excess of -passion. We must indeed estimate the virtue of these people by the only -standard of morality, the conformity of their conduct to what in their -opinion is right; but we must not hastily conclude that theft is a -testimony of the same depravity in them that it is in us, in the -instances in which our people were sufferers by their dishonesty; for -their temptation was such as to surmount would be considered as a proof -of uncommon integrity among those who have more knowledge, better -principles, and stronger motives to resist the temptations of illicit -advantage: an Indian among penny knives, and beads, or even nails and -broken glass, is in the same state of trial with the meanest servant in -Europe among unlocked coffers of jewels and gold. - -On the 26th, I mounted six swivel guns upon the fort, which I was sorry -to see struck the natives with dread: some fishermen who lived upon the -point removed farther off, and Owhaw told us, by signs, that in four -days we should fire great guns. - -On the 27th, Tubourai Tamaide, with a friend, who ate with a voracity -that I never saw before, and the three women that usually attended him, -whose names were TERAPO, TIRAO, and OMIE, dined at the fort: in the -evening they took their leave, and set out for the house which Tubourai -Tamaide had set up in the skirts of the wood; but in less than a quarter -of an hour he returned in great emotion, and hastily seizing Mr. Banks’s -arm, made signs that he should follow him. Mr. Banks immediately -complied, and they soon came up to a place where they found the ship’s -butcher, with a reaping-hook in his hand: here the chief stopped, and, -in a transport of rage which rendered his signs scarcely intelligible, -intimated that the butcher had threatened, or attempted, to cut his -wife’s throat with the reaping-hook. Mr. Banks then signified to him, -that if he could fully explain the offence, the man should be punished. -Upon this he became more calm, and made Mr. Banks understand that the -offender, having taken a fancy to a stone-hatchet which lay in his -house, had offered to purchase it of his wife for a nail: that she -having refused to part with it upon any terms, he had catched it up, and -throwing down the nail, threatened to cut her throat if she made any -resistance: to prove this charge the hatchet and the nail were produced, -and the butcher had so little to say in his defence, that there was not -the least reason to doubt of its truth. - -Mr. Banks having reported this matter to me, I took an opportunity, when -the chief and his women, with other Indians, were on board the ship, to -call up the butcher, and after a recapitulation of the charge and the -proof, I gave orders that he should be punished, as well to prevent -other offences of the same kind, as to acquit Mr. Banks of his promise: -the Indians saw him stripped and tied up to the rigging with a fixed -attention, waiting in silent suspense for the event; but as soon as the -first stroke was given, they interfered with great agitation, earnestly -intreating that the rest of the punishment might be remitted: to this, -however, for many reasons, I could not consent, and when they found that -they could not prevail by their intercession, they gave vent to their -pity by tears. - -Their tears, indeed, like those of children, were always ready to -express any passion that was strongly excited, and like those of -children they also appeared to be forgotten as soon as shed; of which -the following, among many others, is a remarkable instance. Very early -in the morning of the 28th, even before it was day, a great number of -them came down to the fort, and Terapo being observed among the women on -the outside of the gate, Mr. Banks went out and brought her in; he saw -that the tears then stood in her eyes, and as soon as she entered they -began to flow in great abundance: he enquired earnestly the cause, but -instead of answering she took from under her garment a shark’s tooth, -and struck it six or seven times into her head with great force; a -profusion of blood followed, and she talked loud, but in a most -melancholy tone, for some minutes, without at all regarding his -enquiries, which he repeated with still more impatience and concern, -while the other Indians, to his great surprise, talked and laughed, -without taking the least notice of her distress. But her own behaviour -was still more extraordinary. As soon as the bleeding was over, she -looked up with a smile, and began to collect some small pieces of cloth, -which during her bleeding she had thrown down to catch the blood; as -soon as she had picked them all up, she carried them out of the tent, -and threw them into the sea, carefully dispersing them abroad, as if she -wished to prevent the sight of them from reviving the remembrance of -what she had done. She then plunged into the river, and after having -washed her whole body returned to the tents with the same gaiety and -cheerfulness as if nothing had happened. - -It is not, indeed, strange, that the sorrows of these artless people -should be transient, any more than that their passions should be -suddenly and strongly expressed: what they feel they have never been -taught either to disguise or suppress, and having no habits of thinking -which perpetually recall the past, and anticipate the future, they are -affected by all the changes of the passing hour, and reflect the colour -of the time, however frequently it may vary: they have no project which -is to be pursued from day to day, the subject of unremitted anxiety and -solicitude, that first rushes into the mind when they awake in the -morning, and is last dismissed when they sleep at the night. Yet if we -admit that they are upon the whole happier than we, we must admit that -the child is happier than the man, and that we are losers by the -perfection of our nature, the increase of our knowledge, and the -enlargement of our views. - -Canoes were continually coming in during all this forenoon, and the -tents at the fort were crowded with people of both sexes from different -parts of the island. I was myself busy on board the ship, but Mr. -Mollineux, our master, who was one of those that made the last voyage in -the Dolphin, went on shore. As soon as he entered Mr. Banks’s tent he -fixed his eyes upon one of the women, who was sitting there with great -composure among the rest, and immediately declared her to be the person -who at that time was supposed to be the queen of the island; she also, -at the same time, acknowledging him to be one of the strangers whom she -had seen before. The attention of all present was now diverted from -every other object, and wholly engaged in considering a person who had -made so distinguished a figure in the accounts that had been given of -this island by its first discoverers; and we soon learnt that her name -was OBEREA. She seemed to be about forty years of age, and was not only -tall, but of a large make; her skin was white, and there was an uncommon -intelligence and sensibility in her eyes: she appeared to have been -handsome when she was young, but at this time little more than memorials -of her beauty were left. - -As soon as her quality was known, an offer was made to conduct her to -the ship. Of this she readily accepted, and came on board with two men -and several women, who seemed to be all of her family: I received her -with such marks of distinction as I thought would gratify her most, and -was not sparing of my presents, among which this august personage seemed -particularly delighted with a child’s doll. After some time spent on -board, I attended her back to the shore; and as soon as we landed, she -presented me with a hog, and several bunches of plantains, which she -caused to be carried from her canoes up to the fort in a kind of -procession, of which she and myself brought up the rear. In our way to -the fort we met Tootahah, who, though not king, appeared to be at this -time invested with the sovereign authority; he seemed not to be well -pleased with the distinction that was showed to the lady, and became so -jealous when she produced her doll, that to propitiate him it was -thought proper to compliment him with another. At this time he thought -fit to prefer a doll to a hatchet; but this preference arose only from a -childish jealousy, which could not be soothed but by a gift of exactly -the same kind with that which had been presented to Oberea; for dolls in -a very short time were universally considered as trifles of no value. - -The men who had visited us from time to time had, without scruple, eaten -of our provisions; but the women had never yet been prevailed upon to -taste a morsel. To day, however, though they refused the most pressing -solicitations to dine with the gentlemen, they afterwards retired to the -servants’ apartment, and ate of plantains very heartily; a mystery of -female economy here, which none of us could explain. - -On the 29th, not very early in the forenoon, Mr. Banks went to pay his -court to Oberea, and was told that she was still asleep under the awning -of her canoe: thither therefore he went, intending to call her up, a -liberty which he thought he might take, without any danger of giving -offence: but, upon looking into her chamber, to his great astonishment -he found her in bed with a handsome young fellow about five-and-twenty, -whose name was OBADÉE: he retreated with some haste and confusion, but -was soon made to understand, that such amours gave no occasion to -scandal, and that Obadée was universally known to have been selected by -her as the object of her private favours. The lady being too polite to -suffer Mr. Banks to wait long in her antichamber, dressed herself with -more than usual expedition; and, as a token of special grace, clothed -him in a suit of fine cloth and proceeded with him to the tents. In the -evening Mr. Banks paid a visit to Tubourai Tamaide, as he had often done -before, by candle-light, and was equally grieved and surprised to find -him and his family in a melancholy mood, and most of them in tears: he -endeavoured in vain to discover the cause, and therefore his stay among -them was but short. When he reported this circumstance to the officers -at the fort, they recollected that Owhaw had foretold, that in four days -we should fire our great guns; and as this was the eve of the third day, -the situation in which Tubourai Tamaide and his family had been found -alarmed them. The sentries therefore were doubled at the fort, and the -gentlemen slept under arms. At two in the morning, Mr. Banks himself -went round the point, but found every thing so quiet, that he gave up -all suspicions of mischief intended by the natives as groundless. We -had, however, another source of security,—our little fortification was -now complete. The north and south sides consisted of a bank of earth -four feet and a half high on the inside, and a ditch without ten feet -broad and six deep: on the west side, facing the bay, there was a bank -of earth four feet high, and palisadoes upon that, but no ditch, the -works here being at high-water mark: on the east side, upon the bank of -the river, was placed a double row of water-casks, filled with water; -and as this was the weakest side, the two four pounders were planted -there, and six swivel guns were mounted so as to command the only two -avenues from the woods. Our garrison consisted of about five-and-forty -men with small arms, including the officers and the gentlemen who -resided on shore; and our sentries were as well relieved as in the best -regulated frontier in Europe. - -We continued our vigilance the next day, though we had no particular -reason to think it necessary; but about ten o’clock in the morning, -Tomio came running to the tents, with a mixture of grief and fear in her -countenance, and taking Mr. Banks, to whom they applied in every -emergency and distress, by the arm, intimated that Tubourai Tamaide was -dying, in consequence of something which our people had given him to -eat, and that he must instantly go with her to his house. Mr. Banks set -out without delay, and found his Indian friend leaning his head against -a post, in an attitude of the utmost languor and despondency: the people -about him intimated that he had been vomiting, and brought out a leaf -folded up with great care, which they said contained some of the poison, -by the deleterious effects of which he was now dying. Mr. Banks hastily -opened the leaf, and upon examining its contents found them to be no -other than a chew of tobacco, which the chief had begged of some of our -people, and which they had indiscreetly given him: he had observed that -they kept it long in the mouth, and being desirous of doing the same, he -had chewed it to powder, and swallowed the spittle. During the -examination of the leaf and its contents, he looked up at Mr. Banks with -the most piteous aspect, and intimated that he had but a very short time -to live. Mr. Banks, however, being now master of his disease, directed -him to drink plentifully of cocoa-nut milk, which in a short time put an -end to his sickness and apprehensions; and he spent the day at the fort -with that uncommon flow of cheerfulness and good humour which is always -produced by a sudden and unexpected relief from pain either of body or -mind. - -Captain Wallis having brought home one of the adzes which these people, -having no metal of any kind, make of stone, Mr. Stevens, the secretary -to the Admiralty, procured one to be made of iron in imitation of it, -which I brought out with me, to show how much we excelled in making -tools after their own fashion: this I had not yet produced, as it never -happened to come into my mind. But on the first of May Tootahah coming -on board about ten o’clock in the forenoon, expressed a great curiosity -to see the contents of every chest and drawer that was in my cabin: as I -always made a point of gratifying him, I opened them immediately; and -having taken a fancy to many things that he saw, and collected them -together, he at last happened to cast his eye upon this adze: he -instantly snatched it up with the greatest eagerness, and putting away -every thing which he had before selected, he asked me whether I would -let him have that: I readily consented; and, as if he was afraid I -should repent, he carried it off immediately in a transport of joy, -without making any other request, which, whatever had been our -liberality, was seldom the case. - -About noon, a chief, who had dined with me a few days before, -accompanied by some of his women, came on board alone: I had observed -that he was fed by his women, but I made no doubt that upon occasion he -would condescend to feed himself: in this, however, I found myself -mistaken. When my noble guest was seated, and the dinner upon the table, -I helped him to some victuals: as I observed that he did not immediately -begin his meal, I pressed him to eat; but he still continued to sit -motionless like a statue, without attempting to put a single morsel into -his mouth, and would certainly have gone without his dinner, if one of -the servants had not fed him. - - - - - CHAP. XI. - - THE OBSERVATORY SET UP; THE QUADRANT STOLEN, AND CONSEQUENCES OF THE - THEFT: A VISIT TO TOOTAHAH: DESCRIPTION OF A WRESTLING-MATCH: EUROPEAN - SEEDS SOWN: NAMES GIVEN TO OUR PEOPLE BY THE INDIANS. - - -IN the afternoon of Monday the first of May, we set up the observatory, -and took the astronomical quadrant, with some other instruments, on -shore, for the first time. - -The next morning, about nine o’clock, I went on shore with Mr. Green to -fix the quadrant in a situation for use, when to our inexpressible -surprise and concern it was not to be found. It had been deposited in -the tent which was reserved for my use, where, as I passed the night on -board, nobody slept: it had never been taken out of the packing-case, -which was eighteen inches square, and the whole was of considerable -weight; a sentinel had been posted the whole night within five yards of -the tent door, and none of the other instruments were missing. We at -first suspected that it might have been stolen by some of our own -people, who seeing a deal box, and not knowing the contents, might think -it contained nails, or some other subjects of traffic with the natives. -A large reward was therefore offered to any one who could find it, as, -without this, we could not perform the service for which our voyage was -principally undertaken. Our search in the mean time was not confined to -the fort and places adjacent, but as the case might possibly have been -carried back to the ship, if any of our own people had been the thieves, -the most diligent search was made for it on board; all the parties, -however, returned without any news of the quadrant. Mr. Banks, -therefore, who upon such occasions declined neither labour nor risk, and -who had more influence over the Indians than any of us, determined to go -in search of it into the woods; he hoped, that if it had been stolen by -the natives, he should find it wherever they had opened the box, as they -would immediately discover that to them it would be wholly useless: or, -if in this expectation he should be disappointed, that he might recover -it by the ascendancy he had acquired over the chiefs. He set out, -accompanied by a midshipman and Mr. Green, and as he was crossing the -river he was met by Tubourai Tamaide, who immediately made the figure of -a triangle with three bits of straw upon his hand. By this Mr. Banks -knew that the Indians were the thieves; and that, although they had -opened the case, they were not disposed to part with the contents. No -time was therefore to be lost, and Mr. Banks made Tubourai Tamaide -understand, that he must instantly go with him to the place whither the -quadrant had been carried; he consented, and they set out together to -the eastward, the chief enquiring at every house which they passed after -the thief by name: the people readily told him which way he was gone, -and how long it was since he had been there: the hope which this gave -them that they should overtake him, supported them under their fatigue, -and they pressed forward, sometimes walking, sometimes running, though -the weather was intolerably hot; when they had climbed a hill at the -distance of about four miles, their conductor showed them a point full -three miles farther, and gave them to understand that they were not to -expect the instrument till they had got thither. Here they paused; they -had no arms, except a pair of pistols, which Mr. Banks always carried in -his pocket; they were going to a place that was at least seven miles -distant from the fort, where the Indians might be less submissive than -at home, and to take from them what they had ventured their lives to -get; and what, notwithstanding our conjectures, they appeared desirous -to keep: these were discouraging circumstances, and their situation -would become more critical at every step. They determined, however, not -to relinquish their enterprise, nor to pursue it without taking the best -measures for their security that were in their power. It was therefore -determined, that Mr. Banks and Mr. Green should go on, and that the -midshipman should return to me, and desire that I would send a party of -men after them, acquainting me at the same time, that it was impossible -they should return till it was dark. Upon receiving this message, I set -out, with such a party as I thought sufficient for the occasion; leaving -orders, both at the ship and at the fort, that no canoe should be -suffered to go out of the bay, but that none of the natives should be -seized or detained. - -In the mean time, Mr. Banks and Mr. Green pursued their journey, under -the auspices of Tubourai Tamaide, and in the very spot which he had -specified, they met one of his own people, with part of the quadrant in -his hand. At this most welcome sight they stopped; and a great number of -Indians immediately came up, some of whom pressing rather rudely upon -them, Mr. Banks thought it necessary to show one of his pistols, the -sight of which reduced them instantly to order: as the crowd that -gathered round them was every moment increasing, he marked out a circle -in the grass, and they ranged themselves on the outside of it to the -number of several hundreds with great quietness and decorum. Into the -middle of this circle, the box, which was now arrived, was ordered to be -brought, with several reading-glasses, and other small matters, which in -their hurry they had put into a pistol-case, that Mr. Banks knew to be -his property, it having been some time before stolen from the tents, -with a horse pistol in it, which he immediately demanded, and which was -also restored. - -Mr. Green was impatient to see whether all that had been taken away was -returned, and upon examining the box found the stand, and a few small -things of less consequence, wanting; several persons were sent in search -of these, and most of the small things were returned: but it was -signified that the thief had not brought the stand so far, and that it -would be delivered to our friends as they went back; this being -confirmed by Tubourai Tamaide, they prepared to return, as nothing would -then be wanting but what might easily be supplied; and after they had -advanced about two miles, I met them with my party, to our mutual -satisfaction, congratulating each other upon the recovery of the -quadrant, with a pleasure proportionate to the importance of the event. - -About eight o’clock, Mr. Banks with Tubourai Tamaide got back to the -fort; when to his great surprise, he found Tootahah in custody, and many -of the natives in the utmost terror and distress, crowding about the -gate. He went hastily in, some of the Indians were suffered to follow -him, and the scene was extremely affecting. Tubourai Tamaide pressing -forward, ran up to Tootahah, and catching him in his arms, they both -burst into tears, and wept over each other, without being able to speak: -the other Indians were also in tears for their chief, both he and they -being strongly possessed with the notion that he was to be put to death. -In this situation they continued till I entered the fort, which was -about a quarter of an hour afterwards. I was equally surprised and -concerned at what had happened, the confining Tootahah being contrary to -my orders, and therefore instantly set him at liberty. Upon inquiring -into the affair, I was told, that my going into the woods with a party -of men under arms, at a time when a robbery had been committed, which it -was supposed I should resent, in proportion to our apparent injury by -the loss, had so alarmed the natives, that in the evening they began to -leave the neighbourhood of the fort with their effects: that a double -canoe having been seen to put off from the bottom of the bay by Mr. -Gore, the second lieutenant, who was left in command on board the ship, -and who had received orders not to suffer any canoe to go out, he sent -the boatswain with a boat after her to bring her back: that as soon as -the boat came up, the Indians being alarmed, leaped into the sea; and -that Tootahah, being unfortunately one of the number, the boatswain took -him up, and brought him to the ship, suffering the rest of the people to -swim on shore: that Mr. Gore, not sufficiently attending to the order -that none of the people should be confined, had sent him to the fort, -and Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant, who commanded there, receiving him -in charge from Mr. Gore, did not think himself at liberty to dismiss -him. - -The notion that we intended to put him to death had possessed him so -strongly, that he could not be persuaded to the contrary till by my -orders he was led out of the fort. The people received him as they would -have done a father in the same circumstances, and every one pressed -forward to embrace him. Sudden joy is commonly liberal, without a -scrupulous regard to merit: and Tootahah, in the first expansion of his -heart, upon being unexpectedly restored to liberty and life, insisted -upon our receiving a present of two hogs; though, being conscious that -upon this occasion we had no claim to favours, we refused them many -times. - -Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander attended the next morning in their usual -capacity of marketmen, but very few Indians appeared, and those who came -brought no provisions. Tootahah, however, sent some of his people for -the canoe that had been detained, which they took away. A canoe having -also been detained that belonged to Oberea, TUPIA, the person who -managed her affairs when the Dolphin was here, was sent to examine -whether any thing on board had been taken away: and he was so well -satisfied of the contrary, that he left the canoe where he found it, and -joined us at the fort, where he spent the day, and slept on board the -canoe at night. About noon, some fishing boats came abreast of the -tents, but would part with very little of what they had on board; and we -felt the want of cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit very severely. In the course -of the day, Mr. Banks walked out into the woods, that by conversing with -the people he might recover their confidence and good-will: he found -them civil, but they all complained of the ill-treatment of their Chief; -who, they said, had been beaten and pulled by the hair. Mr. Banks -endeavoured to convince them, that he had suffered no personal violence, -which to the best of our knowledge was true; yet, perhaps the boatswain -had behaved with a brutality which he was afraid or ashamed to -acknowledge. The Chief himself being probably, upon recollection, of -opinion that we had ill deserved the hogs, which he had left with us as -a present, sent a messenger in the afternoon to demand an axe, and a -shirt, in return: but as I was told that he did not intend to come down -to the fort for ten days, I excused myself from giving them till I -should see him, hoping that his impatience might induce him to fetch -them, and knowing that absence would probably continue the coolness -between us, to which the first interview might put an end. - -The next day we were still more sensible of the inconvenience we had -incurred by giving offence to the people in the person of their chief, -for the market was so ill-supplied that we were in want of necessaries. -Mr. Banks therefore went into the woods to Tubourai Tamaide, and with -some difficulty persuaded him to let us have five baskets of -bread-fruit; a very seasonable supply, as they contained above one -hundred and twenty. In the afternoon another messenger arrived from -Tootahah for the axe and shirt; as it was now become absolutely -necessary to recover the friendship of this man, without which it would -be scarcely possible to procure provisions, I sent word that Mr. Banks -and myself would visit him on the morrow, and bring what he wanted with -us. - -Early the next morning he sent again to remind me of my promise, and his -people seemed to wait till we should set out with great impatience: I -therefore ordered the pinnace, in which I embarked with Mr. Banks and -Dr. Solander about ten o’clock: we took one of Tootahah’s people in the -boat with us, and in about an hour we arrived at his place of residence -which is called EPARRE, and is about four miles to the westward of the -tents. - -We found the people waiting for us in great numbers upon the shore, so -that it would have been impossible for us to have proceeded, if way had -not been made for us by a tall well-looking man, who had something like -a turban about his head, and a long white stick in his hand, with which -he laid about him at an unmerciful rate. This man conducted us to the -chief, while the people shouted round us, _Taio Tootahah_, “Tootahah is -your friend.” We found him, like an ancient Patriarch, sitting under a -tree, with a number of venerable old men standing round him; he made a -sign to us to sit down, and immediately asked for his axe: this I -presented to him, with an upper garment of broad cloth, made after the -country fashion, and trimmed with tape, to which I also added a shirt: -he received them with great satisfaction, and immediately put on the -garment; but the shirt he gave to the person who had cleared the way for -us upon our landing, who was now seated by us, and of whom he seemed -desirous that we should take particular notice. In a short time, Oberea, -and several other women whom we knew, came and sat down among us: -Tootahah left us several times, but after a short absence returned; we -thought it had been to shew himself in his new finery to the people, but -we wronged him, for it was to give directions for our refreshment and -entertainment. While we were waiting for his return the last time he -left us, very impatient to be dismissed, as we were almost suffocated in -the crowd, word was brought us, that he expected us elsewhere: we found -him sitting under the awning of our own boat, and making signs that we -should come to him: as many of us therefore went on board as the boat -would hold, and he then ordered bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts to be -brought, of both which we tasted, rather to gratify him than because we -had a desire to eat. A message was soon after brought him, upon which he -went out of the boat, and we were in a short time desired to follow. We -were conducted to a large area or court-yard, which was railed round -with bamboos about three feet high, on one side of his house, where an -entertainment was provided for us, entirely new: this was a -wrestling-match. At the upper end of the area sat the chief, and several -of his principal men were ranged on each side of him, so as to form a -semicircle; these were the judges, by whom the victor was to be -applauded; seats were also left for us at each end of the line; but we -chose rather to be at liberty among the rest of the spectators. - -When all was ready, ten or twelve persons, whom we understood to be the -combatants, and who were naked, except a cloth that was fastened about -the waist, entered the area, and walked slowly round it, in a stooping -posture, with their left hands on their right breasts, and their right -hands open, with which they frequently struck the left fore-arm so as to -produce a quick smart sound: this was a general challenge to the -combatants whom they were to engage, or any other person present: after -these followed others in the same manner, and then a particular -challenge was given, by which each man singled out his antagonist: this -was done by joining the finger ends of both hands, and bringing them to -the breast, at the same time moving the elbows up and down with a quick -motion: if the person to whom this was addressed accepted the challenge, -he repeated the signs, and immediately each put himself into an attitude -to engage; the next minute they closed; but, except in first seizing -each other, it was a mere contest of strength: each endeavoured to lay -hold of the other, first by the thigh, and if that failed by the hand, -the hair, the cloth, or elsewhere as he could: when this was done they -grappled, without the least dexterity or skill, till one of them, by -having a more advantageous hold, or greater muscular force, threw the -other on his back. When the contest was over, the old men gave their -plaudits to the victor in a few words, which they repeated together in a -kind of tune: his conquest was also generally celebrated by three -huzzas. The entertainment was then suspended for a few minutes, after -which another couple of wrestlers came forward and engaged in the same -manner: if it happened that neither was thrown, after the contest had -continued about a minute, they parted, either by consent or the -intervention of their friends, and in this case each slapped his arm, as -a challenge to a new engagement, either with the same antagonist or some -other. While the wrestlers were engaged, another party of men performed -a dance which lasted also about a minute; but neither of these parties -took the least notice of each other, their attention being wholly fixed -on what they were doing. We observed with pleasure, that the conqueror -never exulted over the vanquished, and that the vanquished never repined -at the success of the conqueror; the whole contest was carried on with -perfect good-will and good-humour, though in the presence of at least -five hundred spectators, of whom some were women. The number of women -indeed was comparatively small, none but those of rank were present, and -we had reason to believe that they would not have been spectators of -this exercise but in compliment to us. - -This lasted about two hours; during all which time the man who had made -way for us when we landed, kept the people at a proper distance, by -striking those who pressed forward very severely with his stick: upon -inquiry we learnt, that he was an officer belonging to Tootahah, acting -as a master of the ceremonies. - -It is scarcely possible for those who are acquainted with the athletic -sports of very remote antiquity, not to remark a rude resemblance of -them in this wrestling-match among the natives of a little island in the -midst of the Pacific Ocean: and even our female readers may recollect -the account given of them by Fenelon in his Telemachus, where, though -the events are fictitious, the manners of the age are faithfully -transcribed from authors by whom they are supposed to have been truly -related. - -When the wrestling was over, we were given to understand that two hogs, -and a large quantity of bread-fruit, were preparing for our dinner, -which, as our appetites were now keen, was very agreeable intelligence. -Our host, however, seemed to repent of his liberality; for, instead of -setting his two hogs before us, he ordered one of them to be carried -into our boat; at first we were not sorry for this new disposition of -matters, thinking that we should dine more comfortably in the boat than -on shore, as the crowd would more easily be kept at a distance: but when -we came on board, he ordered us to proceed with his hog to the ship: -this was mortifying, as we were now to row four miles while our dinner -was growing cold; however, we thought fit to comply, and were at last -gratified with the cheer that he had provided, of which he and Tubourai -Tamaide had a liberal share. - -Our reconciliation with this man operated upon the people like a charm; -for he was no sooner known to be on board, than bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, -and other provisions were brought to the fort in great plenty. - -Affairs now went on in the usual channel; but pork being still a scarce -commodity, our master, Mr. Mollineux, and Mr. Green, went in the pinnace -to the eastward, on the 8th, early in the morning to see whether they -could procure any hogs or poultry in that part of the country: they -proceeded in that direction twenty miles; but though they saw many hogs, -and one turtle, they could not purchase either at any price: the people -every where told them, that they all belonged to Tootahah, and that they -could sell none of them without his permission. We now began to think -that this man was indeed a great prince; for an influence so extensive -and absolute could be acquired by no other. And we afterwards found that -he administered the government of this part of the island, as sovereign, -for a minor whom we never saw all the time that we were upon it. When -Mr. Green returned from this expedition, he said he had seen a tree of a -size which he was afraid to relate, it being no less than sixty yards in -circumference; but Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander soon explained to him, -that it was a species of the fig, the branches of which, bending down, -take fresh root in the earth, and thus form a congeries of trunks, which -being very close to each other, and all joined by a common vegetation, -might easily be mistaken for one. - -Though the market at the fort was now tolerably supplied, provisions -were brought more slowly; a sufficient quantity used to be purchased -between sunrise and eight o’clock, but it was now become necessary to -attend the greatest part of the day. Mr. Banks, therefore, fixed his -little boat up before the door of the fort, which was of great use as a -place to trade in: hitherto we had purchased cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit -for beads; but the market becoming rather slack in these articles, we -were now, for the first time, forced to bring out our nails: one of our -smallest size, which was about four inches long, procured us twenty -cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit in proportion, so that in a short time our -first plenty was restored. - -On the 9th, soon after breakfast, we received a visit from Oberea, being -the first that she had made us after the loss of our quadrant, and the -unfortunate confinement of Tootahah; with her came her present -favourite, Obadée, and Tupia: they brought us a hog and some -bread-fruit, in return for which we gave her a hatchet. We had now -afforded our Indian friends a new and interesting object of curiosity, -our forge, which having been set up some time, was almost constantly at -work. It was now common for them to bring pieces of iron, which we -suppose they must have got from the Dolphin, to be made into tools of -various kinds; and as I was very desirous to gratify them, they were -indulged except when the smith’s time was too precious to be spared. -Oberea having received her hatchet, produced as much old iron as would -have made another, with a request that another might be made of it; in -this, however, I could not gratify her, upon which she brought out a -broken axe, and desired it might be mended: I was glad of an opportunity -to compromise the difference between us: her axe was mended, and she -appeared to be content. They went away at night, and took with them the -canoe, which had been a considerable time at the point, but promised to -return in three days. - -On the 10th, I put some seeds of melons and other plants into a spot of -ground which had been turned up for the purpose; they had all been -sealed up by the person of whom they were bought, in small bottles with -rosin; but none of them came up except mustard; even the cucumbers and -melons failed, and Mr. Banks is of opinion that they were spoiled by the -total exclusion of fresh air. - -This day we learnt the Indian name of the island, which is OTAHEITE, and -by that name I shall hereafter distinguish it: but after great pains -taken we found it utterly impossible to teach the Indians to pronounce -our names; we had, therefore, new names, consisting of such sounds as -they produced in the attempt. They called me _Toote_; Mr. Hicks, _Hete_; -Mollineux they renounced in absolute despair, and called the Master -_Boba_, from his Christian name Robert; Mr. Gore was _Toarro_; Dr. -Solander, _Torano_; and Mr. Banks, _Tapane_; Mr. Green, _Eteree_; Mr. -Parkinson, _Patini_; Mr. Sporing, _Polini_; Petersgill, _Petrodero_; and -in this manner they had now formed names for almost every man in the -ship: in some, however, it was not easy to find any traces of the -original, and they were perhaps not mere arbitrary sounds formed upon -the occasion, but significant words in their own language. Monkhouse, -the Midshipman, who commanded the party that killed the man for stealing -the musket, they called _Matte_; not merely by an attempt to imitate in -sound the first syllable of Monkhouse, but because _Matte_ signifies -_dead_; and this probably might be the case with others. - - - - - CHAP. XII. - - SOME LADIES VISIT THE FORT WITH VERY UNCOMMON CEREMONIES: THE INDIANS - ATTEND DIVINE SERVICE, AND IN THE EVENING EXHIBIT A MOST EXTRAORDINARY - SPECTACLE: TUBOURAI TAMAIDE FALLS INTO TEMPTATION. - - -FRIDAY, the 12th of May, was distinguished by a visit from some ladies -whom we had never seen before, and who introduced themselves with some -very singular ceremonies. Mr. Banks was trading in his boat at the gate -of the fort as usual, in company with Tootahah, who had that morning -paid him a visit, and some other of the natives; between nine and ten -o’clock, a double canoe came to the landing-place, under the awning of -which sat a man and two women: the Indians that were about Mr. Banks -made signs that he should go out to meet them, which he hastened to do; -but by the time he could get out of the boat, they had advanced within -ten yards of him; they then stopped, and made signs that he should do so -too, laying down about a dozen young plantain trees, and some other -small plants: he complied, and the people having made a lane between -them, the man, who appeared to be a servant, brought six of them to Mr. -Banks by one of each at a time, passing and repassing six times, and -always pronouncing a short sentence when he delivered them. Tupia, who -stood by Mr. Banks, acted as his master of the ceremonies, and receiving -the branches as they were brought, laid them down in the boat. When this -was done, another man brought a large bundle of cloth, which having -opened, he spread piece by piece upon the ground, in the space between -Mr. Banks and his visitors; there were nine pieces, and having laid -three pieces one upon another, the foremost of the women, who seemed to -be the principal, and who was called OORATTOOA, stepped upon them, and -taking up her garments all round her to the waist, turned about, with -great composure and deliberation, and with an air of perfect innocence -and simplicity, three times; when this was done, she dropped the veil, -and stepping off the cloth, three more pieces were laid on, and she -repeated the ceremony, then stepping off as before, the last three were -laid on, and the ceremony was repeated in the same manner the third -time. Immediately after this the cloth was rolled up, and given to Mr. -Banks as a present from the lady, who, with her friend, came up and -saluted him. He made such presents to them both, as he thought would be -most acceptable, and after having staid about an hour they went away. In -the evening the Gentlemen at the fort had a visit from Oberea, and her -favourite female attendant, whose name was OTHEOTHEA, an agreeable girl, -whom they were the more pleased to see, because, having been some days -absent, it had been reported she was either sick or dead. - -On the 13th, the market being over about ten o’clock, Mr. Banks walked -into the woods with his gun, as he generally did, for the benefit of the -shade in the heat of the day: as he was returning back, he met Tubourai -Tamaide, near his occasional dwelling, and stopping to spend a little -time with him, he suddenly took the gun out of Mr. Banks’s hand, cocked -it, and, holding it up in the air, drew the trigger: fortunately for him -it flashed in the pan: Mr. Banks immediately took it from him, not a -little surprised how he had acquired sufficient knowledge of a gun to -discharge it, and reproved him with great severity for what he had done. -As it was of infinite importance to keep the Indians totally ignorant of -the management of fire-arms, he had taken every opportunity of -intimating that they could never offend him so highly as by even -touching his piece; it was now proper to enforce this prohibition, and -he therefore added threats to his reproof: the Indian bore all -patiently; but the moment Mr. Banks crossed the river, he set off with -all his family and furniture for his house at Eparre. This being quickly -known from the Indians at the fort, and great inconvenience being -apprehended from the displeasure of this man, who upon all occasions had -been particularly useful, Mr. Banks determined to follow him without -delay, and solicit his return: he set out the same evening accompanied -by Mr. Mollineux, and found him sitting in the middle of a large circle -of people, to whom he had probably related what had happened, and his -fears of the consequences; he was himself the very picture of grief and -dejection, and the same passions were strongly marked in the -countenances of all the people that surrounded him. When Mr. Banks and -Mr. Mollineux went into the circle, one of the women expressed her -trouble, as Terapo had done upon another occasion, and struck a shark’s -tooth into her head several times, till it was covered with blood. Mr. -Banks lost no time in putting an end to this universal distress; he -assured the Chief, that every thing which had passed should be -forgotten, that there was not the least animosity remaining on one side, -nor any thing to be feared on the other. The Chief was soon soothed into -confidence and complacency, a double canoe was ordered to be got ready, -they all returned together to the fort before supper, and as a pledge of -perfect reconciliation, both he and his wife slept all night in Mr. -Banks’s tent: their presence, however, was no palladium; for, between -eleven and twelve o’clock, one of the natives attempted to get into the -fort by scaling the walls, with a design, no doubt, to steal whatever he -should happen to find; he was discovered by the sentinel, who happily -did not fire, and he ran away much faster than any of our people could -follow him. The iron, and iron-tools, which were in continual use at the -armourer’s forge, that was set up within the works, were temptations to -theft which none of these people could withstand. - -On the 14th, which was Sunday, I directed that Divine service should be -performed at the fort: we were desirous that some of the principal -Indians should be present, but when the hour came, most of them were -returned home. Mr. Banks, however, crossed the river, and brought back -Tubourai Tamaide and his wife Tomio, hoping that it would give occasion -to some enquiries on their part, and some instruction on ours: having -seated them, he placed himself between them, and during the whole -service, they very attentively observed his behaviour, and very exactly -imitated it; standing, sitting, or kneeling, as they saw him do: they -were conscious that we were employed about somewhat serious and -important, as appeared by their calling to the Indians without the fort -to be silent; yet when the service was over, neither of them asked any -questions, nor would they attend to any attempt that was made to explain -what had been done. - -Such were our matins; our Indians thought fit to perform vespers of a -very different kind. A young man, near six feet high, performed the -rites of Venus with a little girl about eleven or twelve years of age, -before several of our people, and a great number of the natives, without -the least sense of its being indecent or improper, but, as appeared, in -perfect conformity to the custom of the place. Among the spectators were -several women of superior rank, particularly Oberea, who may properly be -said to have assisted at the ceremony; for they gave instructions to the -girl how to perform her part, which, young as she was, she did not seem -much to stand in need of. - -This incident is not mentioned as an object of idle curiosity, but as it -deserves consideration in determining a question which has been long -debated in philosophy; Whether the shame attending certain actions, -which are allowed on all sides to be in themselves innocent, is -implanted in nature, or superinduced by custom? If it has its origin in -custom, it will, perhaps, be found difficult to trace that custom, -however general, to its source; if in instinct, it will be equally -difficult to discover from what cause it is subdued, or at least -over-ruled among these people, in whose manners not the least trace of -it is to be found. - -On the 14th and 15th, we had another opportunity of observing the -general knowledge which these people had of any design that was formed -among them. In the night between the 13th and 14th, one of the -water-casks was stolen from the outside of the fort: in the morning, -there was not an Indian to be seen who did not know that it was gone; -yet they appeared not to have been trusted, or not to have been worthy -of trust; for they seemed all of them disposed to give intelligence -where it might be found. Mr. Banks traced it to a part of the bay where -he was told it had been put into a canoe, but as it was not of great -consequence he did not complete the discovery. When he returned, he was -told by Tubourai Tamaide, that another cask would be stolen before the -morning: how he came by this knowledge it is not easy to imagine; that -he was not a party in the design is certain, for he came with his wife -and his family to the place where the water-casks stood, and placing -their beds near them, he said he would himself be a pledge for their -safety, in despight of the thief: of this, however, we would not admit; -and making them understand that a sentry would be placed to watch the -casks till the morning, he removed the beds into Mr. Banks’s tent, where -he and his family spent the night, making signs to the sentry when he -retired, that he should keep his eyes open. In the night this -intelligence appeared to be true; about twelve o’clock the thief came, -but discovering that a watch had been set, he went away without his -booty. - -Mr. Banks’s confidence in Tubourai Tamaide had greatly increased since -the affair of the knife, in consequence of which he was at length -exposed to temptations which neither his integrity nor his honour was -able to resist. They had withstood many allurements, but were at length -ensnared by the fascinating charms of a basket of nails: these nails -were much larger than any that had yet been brought into trade, and had, -with perhaps some degree of criminal negligence, been left in a corner -of Mr. Banks’s tent, to which the chief had always free access. One of -these nails Mr. Banks’s servant happened to see in his possession, upon -his having inadvertently thrown back that part of his garment under -which it was concealed. Mr. Banks being told of this, and knowing that -no such thing had been given him, either as a present or in barter, -immediately examined the basket, and discovered, that out of seven nails -five were missing. He then, though not without great reluctance, charged -him with the fact, which he immediately confessed, and however he might -suffer, was probably not more hurt than his accuser. A demand was -immediately made of restitution; but this he declined, saying, that the -nails were at Eparre: however, Mr. Banks appearing to be much in -earnest, and using some threatening signs, he thought fit to produce one -of them. He was then taken to the fort, to receive such judgment as -should be given against him by the general voice. - -After some deliberation, that we might not appear to think too lightly -of his offence, he was told, that if he would bring the other four nails -to the fort, it should be forgotten. To this condition he agreed; but I -am sorry to say he did not fulfil it. Instead of fetching the nails, he -removed with his family before night, and took all his furniture with -him. - -As our long-boat had appeared to be leaky, I thought it necessary to -examine her bottom, and to my great surprise found it so much eaten by -the worms, that it was necessary to give her a new one; no such accident -had happened to the Dolphin’s boats, as I was informed by the officers -on board, and therefore it was a misfortune that I did not expect: I -feared that the pinnace also might be nearly in the same condition; but, -upon examining her, I had the satisfaction to find that not a worm had -touched her, though she was built of the same wood, and had been as much -in the water; the reason of this difference I imagine to be, that the -long-boat was paid with varnish of pine, and the pinnace painted with -white lead and oil; the bottoms of all boats, therefore, which are sent -into this country, should be painted like that of the pinnace, and the -ships should be supplied with a good stock, in order to give them a new -coating when it should be found necessary. - -Having received repeated messages from Tootahah, that if we would pay -him a visit he would acknowledge the favour by a present of four hogs, I -sent Mr. Hicks, my first lieutenant, to try if he could not procure the -hogs upon easier terms, with orders to show him every civility in his -power. Mr. Hicks found that he was removed from Eparre to a place called -TETTAHAH, five miles farther to the westward. He was received with great -cordiality; one hog was immediately produced, and he was told that the -other three, which were at some distance, should be brought in the -morning. Mr. Hicks readily consented to stay; but the morning came -without the hogs, and it not being convenient to stay longer, he -returned in the evening with the one he had got. - -On the 25th, Tubourai Tamaide and his wife Tomio made their appearance -at the tent, for the first time since he had been detected in stealing -the nails; he seemed to be under some discontent and apprehension, yet -he did not think fit to purchase our countenance and good will by -restoring the four which he had sent away. As Mr. Banks and the other -gentlemen treated him with a coolness and reserve which did not at all -tend to restore his peace or good humour, his stay was short, and his -departure abrupt. Mr. Monkhouse, the surgeon, went the next morning in -order to effect a reconciliation, by persuading him to bring down the -nails, but he could not succeed. - - - - - CHAP. XIII. - - ANOTHER VISIT TO TOOTAHAH, WITH VARIOUS ADVENTURES: EXTRAORDINARY -AMUSEMENT OF THE INDIANS, WITH REMARKS UPON IT: PREPARATIONS TO OBSERVE - THE TRANSIT OF VENUS, AND WHAT HAPPENED IN THE MEAN TIME AT THE FORT. - - -ON the 27th, it was determined that we should pay our visit to Tootahah, -though we were not very confident that we should receive the hogs for -our pains. I therefore set out early in the morning, with Mr. Banks and -Dr. Solander, and three others, in the pinnace. He was now removed from -Tettahah, where Mr. Hicks had seen him, to a place called ATAHOUROU, -about six miles farther, and as we could not go above half-way thither -in the boat, it was almost evening before we arrived: we found him in -his usual state, sitting under a tree, with a great crowd about him. We -made our presents in due form, consisting of a yellow stuff petticoat, -and some other trifling articles, which were graciously received; a hog -was immediately ordered to be killed and dressed for supper, with a -promise of more in the morning: however, as we were less desirous of -feasting upon our journey than of carrying back with us provisions, -which would be more welcome at the fort, we procured a reprieve for the -hog, and supped upon the fruits of the country. As night now came on, -and the place was crowded with many more than the houses and canoes -would contain; there being Oberea with her attendants, and many other -travellers whom we knew, we began to look out for lodgings. Our party -consisted of six: Mr. Banks thought himself fortunate in being offered a -place by Oberea in her canoe, and wishing his friends a good night, took -his leave. He went to rest early, according to the custom of the -country, and taking off his clothes, as was his constant practice, the -nights being hot, Oberea kindly insisted upon taking them into her own -custody, for otherwise she said they would certainly be stolen. Mr. -Banks having such a safeguard, resigned himself to sleep with all -imaginable tranquillity: but waking about eleven o’clock, and wanting to -get up, he searched for his clothes where he had seen them deposited by -Oberea when he lay down to sleep, and soon perceived that they were -missing. He immediately awakened Oberea, who starting up, and hearing -his complaint, ordered lights, and prepared in great haste to recover -what he had lost: Tootahah himself slept in the next canoe, and being -soon alarmed, he came to them, and set out with Oberea in search of the -thief. Mr. Banks was not in a condition to go with them, for of his -apparel scarce any thing was left him but his breeches; his coat, and -his waistcoat, with his pistols, powder-horn, and many other things that -were in the pockets, were gone. In about half an hour his two noble -friends returned, but without having obtained any intelligence of his -clothes or of the thief. At first he began to be alarmed, his musket had -not indeed been taken away, but he had neglected to load it; where I and -Dr. Solander had disposed of ourselves he did not know; and therefore, -whatever might happen, he could not have recourse to us for assistance. -He thought it best, however, to express neither fear nor suspicion of -those about him, and giving his musket to Tupia, who had been waked in -the confusion and stood by him, with a charge not to suffer it to be -stolen, he betook himself again to rest, declaring himself perfectly -satisfied with the pains that Tootahah and Oberea had taken to recover -his things, though they had not been successful. As it cannot be -supposed that in such a situation his sleep was very sound, he soon -after heard music, and saw lights at a little distance on shore: this -was a concert or assembly, which they call a HEIVA, a common name for -every public exhibition; and as it would necessarily bring many people -together, and there was a chance of my being among them with his other -friends, he rose, and made the best of his way towards it: he was soon -led by the lights and the sound to the hut where I lay, with three other -gentlemen of our party; and easily distinguishing us from the rest, he -made up to us more than half naked, and told us his melancholy story. We -gave him such comfort as the unfortunate generally give to each other, -by telling him that we were fellow-sufferers; I showed him that I was -myself without stockings, they having been stolen from under my head, -though I was sure I had never been asleep, and each of my associates -convinced him, by his appearance, that he had lost a jacket. We -determined, however, to hear out the concert, however deficient we might -appear in our dress; it consisted of three drums, four flutes, and -several voices: when this entertainment, which lasted about an hour, was -over, we retired again to our sleeping-places; having agreed, that -nothing could be done toward the recovery of our things till the -morning. - -We rose at day-break, according to the custom of the country: the first -man that Mr. Banks saw was Tupia, faithfully attending with his musket; -and soon after, Oberea brought him some of her country clothes, as a -succedaneum for his own, so that when he came to us he made a most -motley appearance, half Indian and half English. Our party soon got -together, except Dr. Solander, whose quarters we did not know, and who -had not assisted at the concert: in a short time Tootahah made his -appearance, and we pressed him to recover our clothes; but neither he -nor Oberea could be persuaded to take any measure for that purpose, so -that we began to suspect that they had been parties in the theft. About -eight o’clock, we were joined by Dr. Solander, who had fallen into -honester hands, at a house about a mile distant, and had lost nothing. - -Having given up all hope of recovering our clothes, which, indeed, were -never afterwards heard of, we spent all the morning in soliciting the -hogs which we had been promised; but in this we had no better success: -we, therefore, in no very good humour, set out for the boat about twelve -o’clock, with only that which we had redeemed from the butcher and the -cook the night before. - -As we were returning to the boat, however, we were entertained with a -sight that in some measure compensated for our fatigue and -disappointment. In our way we came to one of the few places where access -to the island is not guarded by a reef, and, consequently, a high surf -breaks upon the shore; a more dreadful one, indeed, I had seldom seen; -it was impossible for any European boat to have lived in it; and if the -best swimmer in Europe had, by any accident, been exposed to its fury, I -am confident that he would not have been able to preserve himself from -drowning, especially as the shore was covered with pebbles and large -stones; yet, in the midst of these breakers, were ten or twelve Indians -swimming for their amusement: whenever a surf broke near them, they -dived under it, and, to all appearance with infinite facility, rose -again on the other side. This diversion was greatly improved by the -stern of an old canoe, which they happened to find upon the spot: they -took this before them, and swam out with it as far as the outermost -breach, then two or three of them getting into it, and turning the -square end to the breaking wave, were driven in towards the shore with -incredible rapidity, sometimes almost to the beach; but generally the -wave broke over them before they got half way, in which case they dived, -and rose on the other side with the canoe in their hands: they then swam -out with it again, and were again driven back, just as our holiday youth -climb the hill in Greenwich-park for the pleasure of rolling down it. At -this wonderful scene we stood gazing for more than half an hour, during -which time none of the swimmers attempted to come on shore, but seemed -to enjoy their sport in the highest degree; we then proceeded in our -journey, and late in the evening got back to the fort. - -Upon this occasion it may be observed, that human nature is endued with -powers which are only accidentally exerted to the utmost; and that all -men are capable of what no man attains, except he is stimulated to the -effort by some uncommon circumstances or situation. These Indians -effected what to us appeared to be supernatural, merely by the -application of such powers as they possessed in common with us, and all -other men who have no particular infirmity or defect. The truth of the -observation is also manifest from more familiar instances. The -rope-dancer and balance-master owe their art, not to any peculiar -liberality of nature, but to an accidental improvement of her common -gifts; and though equal diligence and application would not always -produce equal excellence in these, any more than in other arts, yet -there is no doubt but that a certain degree of proficiency in them might -be universally attained. Another proof of the existence of abilities in -mankind, that are almost universally dormant, is furnished by the -attainments of blind men. It cannot be supposed that the loss of one -sense, like the amputation of a branch from a tree, gives new vigour to -those that remain. Every man’s hearing and touch, therefore, are capable -of the nice distinctions which astonish us in those that have lost their -sight, and if they do not give the same intelligence to the mind, it is -merely because the same intelligence is not required of them: he that -can see may do from choice what the blind do by necessity, and by the -same diligent attention to the other senses may receive the same notices -from them; let it, therefore, be remembered, as an encouragement to -persevering diligence, and a principle of general use to mankind, that -he who does all he can will ever effect much more than is generally -thought to be possible. - -Among other Indians that had visited us, there were some from a -neighbouring island which they called EIMEO or IMAO, the same to which -Captain Wallis had given the name of the Duke of York’s island, and they -gave us an account of no less than two-and-twenty islands that lay in -the neighbourhood of Otaheite. - -As the day of observation now approached, I determined, in consequence -of some hints which had been given me by Lord Morton, to send out two -parties to observe the transit from other situations; hoping, that if we -should fail at Otaheite, they might have better success. We were, -therefore, now busily employed in preparing our instruments, and -instructing such gentlemen in the use of them as I intended to send out. - -On Thursday the 1st of June, the Saturday following being the day of the -transit, I dispatched Mr. Gore in the long boat to Imao, with Mr. -Monkhouse and Mr. Sporing, a gentleman belonging to Mr. Banks, Mr. Green -having furnished them with proper instruments. Mr. Banks himself thought -fit to go upon this expedition, and several natives, particularly -Tubourai Tamaide and Tomio, were also of the party. Very early on the -Friday morning, I sent Mr. Hicks with Mr. Clerk and Mr. Petersgill, the -master’s mates, and Mr. Saunders, one of the midshipmen, in the pinnace -to the eastward, with orders to fix on some convenient spot, at a -distance from our principal observatory, where they also might employ -the instruments with which they had been furnished for the same purpose. - -The long-boat not having been got ready till Thursday in the afternoon, -though all possible expedition was used to fit her out; the people on -board, after having rowed most part of the night, brought her to a -grappling just under the land of Imao. Soon after day-break, they saw an -Indian canoe, which they hailed, and the people on board shewed them an -inlet through the reef into which they pulled, and soon fixed upon a -coral rock, which rose out of the water about one hundred and fifty -yards from the shore, as a proper situation for their observatory: it -was about eighty yards long and twenty broad, and in the middle of it -was a bed of white sand, large enough for the tents to stand upon. Mr. -Gore and his assistants immediately began to set them up, and make other -necessary preparations for the important business of the next day. While -this was doing, Mr. Banks, with the Indians of Otaheite, and the people -whom they had met in the canoe, went ashore upon the main island, to buy -provisions; of which he procured a sufficient supply before night. When -he returned to the rock, he found the observatory in order, and the -telescopes all fixed and tried. The evening was very fine, yet their -solicitude did not permit them to take much rest in the night: one or -other of them was up every half hour, who satisfied the impatience of -the rest by reporting the changes of the sky, now encouraging their -hope, by telling them that it was clear, and now alarming their fears, -by an account that it was hazy. - -At day-break they got up, and had the satisfaction to see the sun rise -without a cloud. Mr. Banks then wishing the observers, Mr. Gore and Mr. -Monkhouse, success, repaired again to the island, that he might examine -its produce, and get a fresh supply of provisions: he began by trading -with the natives, for which purpose he took his station under a tree; -and to keep them from pressing upon him in a crowd, he drew a circle -round him, which he suffered none of them to enter. - -About eight o’clock, he saw two canoes coming towards the place, and was -given to understand by the people about him, that they belonged to -TARRAO, the King of the island, who was coming to make him a visit. As -soon as the canoes came near the shore, the people made a lane from the -beach to the trading-place, and his Majesty landed, with his sister, -whose name was NUNA; as they advanced towards the tree where Mr. Banks -stood, he went out to meet them, and, with great formality, introduced -them into the circle from which the other natives had been excluded. As -it is the custom of these people to sit during all their conferences, -Mr. Banks unwrapped a kind of turban of Indian cloth, which he wore upon -his head instead of a hat, and spreading it upon the ground, they all -sat down upon it together. The royal present was then brought, which -consisted of a hog and a dog, some bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other -articles of the like kind. Mr. Banks then dispatched a canoe to the -observatory for his present, and the messengers soon returned with an -adze, a shirt, and some beads, which were presented to his Majesty, and -received with great satisfaction. - -By this time, Tubourai Tamaide and Tomio joined them, from the -observatory. Tomio said, that she was related to Tarrao, and brought him -a present of a long nail, at the same time complimenting Nuna with a -shirt. - -The first internal contact of the planet with the sun being over, Mr. -Banks returned to the observatory, taking Tarrao, Nuna, and some of -their principal attendants, among whom were three very handsome young -women, with him: he showed them the planet upon the sun, and endeavoured -to make them understand that he and his companions had come from their -own country on purpose to see it. Soon after, Mr. Banks returned with -them to the island, where he spent the rest of the day in examining its -produce, which he found to be much the same with that of Otaheite. The -people whom he saw there also exactly resembled the inhabitants of that -island, and many of them were persons whom he had seen upon it; so that -all those whom he had dealt with knew of what his trading articles -consisted, and the value they bore. - -The next morning, having struck the tents, they set out on their return, -and arrived at the fort before night. - -The observation was made with equal success by the persons whom I had -sent to the eastward, and at the fort, there not being a cloud in the -sky from the rising to the setting of the sun, the whole passage of the -planet Venus over the sun’s disk was observed with great advantage by -Mr. Green, Dr. Solander, and myself: Mr. Green’s telescope and mine were -of the same magnifying power, but that of Dr. Solander was greater. We -all saw an atmosphere or dusky cloud round the body of the planet, which -very much disturbed the times of contact, especially of the internal -ones; and we differed from each other in our accounts of the times of -the contacts much more than might have been expected. According to Mr. -Green, - - Hours. Min. Sec. - - The first external contact, or first appearance } - of Venus on the sun, was 9 25 42 } - } Morning - The first internal contact, or total immersion, } - was 9 44 4 } - - The second internal contact, or beginning of } - the emersion, 3 14 8 } Afternoon - } - The second external contact, or total emersion, 3 32 10 } - -The latitude of the observatory was found to be 17° 29ʹ 15ʺ, and the -longitude 149° 32ʹ 30ʺ W. of Greenwich. A more particular account will -appear by the tables, for which the reader is referred to the -Transactions of the Royal Society, vol. lxi. part 2. page 39. _et seq._, -where they are illustrated by a cut. - -But if we had reason to congratulate ourselves upon the success of our -observation, we had scarce less cause to regret the diligence with which -that time had been improved by some of our people to another purpose. -While the attention of the officers was engrossed by the transit of -Venus, some of the ship’s company broke into one of the store-rooms, and -stole a quantity of spike-nails, amounting to no less than one hundred -weight: this was a matter of public and serious concern; for these -nails, if circulated by the people among the Indians, would do us -irreparable injury, by reducing the value of iron, our staple commodity. -One of the thieves was detected, but only seven nails were found in his -custody. He was punished with two dozen lashes, but would impeach none -of his accomplices. - - - - - CHAP. XIV. - - THE CEREMONIES OF AN INDIAN FUNERAL PARTICULARLY DESCRIBED: GENERAL - OBSERVATIONS ON THE SUBJECT: A CHARACTER FOUND AMONG THE INDIANS TO -WHICH THE ANCIENTS PAID GREAT VENERATION: A ROBBERY AT THE FORT, AND ITS -CONSEQUENCES: WITH A SPECIMEN OF INDIAN COOKERY, AND VARIOUS INCIDENTS. - - -ON the 5th, we kept his Majesty’s birth-day; for though it is the 4th, -we were unwilling to celebrate it during the absence of the two parties -who had been sent out to observe the transit. We had several of the -Indian chiefs at our entertainment, who drank his Majesty’s health by -the name of Kihiargo, which was the nearest imitation they could produce -of King George. - -About this time died an old woman of some rank, who was related to -Tomio, which gave us an opportunity to see how they disposed of the -body, and confirmed us in our opinion that these people, contrary to the -present custom of all other nations now known, never bury their dead. In -the middle of a small square, neatly railed in with bamboo, the awning -of a canoe was raised upon two posts, and under this the body was -deposited upon such a frame as has before been described: it was covered -with fine cloth, and near it was placed bread-fruit, fish, and other -provisions: we supposed that the food was placed there for the spirit of -the deceased, and, consequently, that these Indians had some confused -notion of a separate state; but upon our applying for further -information to Tubourai Tamaide, he told us, that the food was placed -there as an offering to their gods. They do not, however, suppose that -the gods eat, any more than the Jews suppose that Jehovah could dwell in -a house: the offering is made here upon the same principle as the temple -was built at Jerusalem, as an expression of reverence and gratitude, and -a solicitation of the more immediate presence of the Deity. In the front -of the area was a kind of stile, where the relations of the deceased -stood, to pay the tribute of their sorrow; and under the awning were -innumerable small pieces of cloth, on which the tears and blood of the -mourners had been shed; for in their paroxysms of grief it is a -universal custom to wound themselves with the shark’s tooth. Within a -few yards two occasional houses were set up, in one of which some -relations of the deceased constantly resided, and in the other the chief -mourner, who is always a man, and who keeps there a very singular dress -in which a ceremony is performed that will be described in its turn. -Near the place where the dead are thus set up to rot the bones are -afterwards buried. - -What can have introduced among these people the custom of exposing their -dead above ground till the flesh is consumed by putrefaction, and then -burying the bones, it is, perhaps, impossible to guess; but it is -remarkable, that Ælian and Apollonius Rhodius impute a similar practice -to the ancient inhabitants of Colchis, a country near Pontus, in Asia, -now called Mingrelia; except that among them this manner of disposing of -the dead did not extend to both sexes: the women they buried; but the -men they wrapped in a hide, and hung up in the air by a chain. This -practice among the Colchians is referred to a religious cause. The -principal objects of their worship were the earth and the air; and it is -supposed that, in consequence of some superstitious notion, they devoted -their dead to both. Whether the natives of Otaheite had any notion of -the same kind, we were never able certainly to determine; but we soon -discovered, that the repositories of their dead were also places of -worship. Upon this occasion it may be observed, that nothing can be more -absurd than the notion that the happiness or misery of a future life -depends, in any degree, upon the disposition of the body when the state -of probation is past; yet that nothing is more general than a solicitude -about it. However cheap we may hold any funeral rites which custom has -not familiarized, or superstition rendered sacred, most men gravely -deliberate how to prevent their body from being broken by the mattock -and devoured by the worm, when it is no longer capable of sensation; and -purchase a place for it in holy ground, when they believe the lot of its -future existence to be irrevocably determined. So strong is the -association of pleasing or painful ideas with certain opinions and -actions which affect us while we live, that we involuntarily act as if -it was equally certain that they would affect us in the same manner when -we are dead, though this is an opinion that nobody will maintain. Thus -it happens, that the desire of preserving from reproach even the name -that we leave behind us, or of procuring it honour, is one of the most -powerful principles of action, among the inhabitants of the most -speculative and enlightened nations. Posthumous reputation, upon every -principle, must be acknowledged to have no influence upon the dead; yet -the desire of obtaining and securing it, no force of reason, no habits -of thinking, can subdue, except in those whom habitual baseness and -guilt have rendered indifferent to honour and shame while they lived. -This, indeed, seems to be among the happy imperfections of our nature, -upon which the general good of society in a certain measure depends; for -as some crimes are supposed to be prevented by hanging the body of the -criminal in chains after he is dead, so in consequence of the same -association of ideas, much good is procured to society, and much evil -prevented, by a desire of preventing disgrace or procuring honour to a -name, when nothing but a name remains. - -Perhaps no better use can be made of reading an account of manners -altogether new, by which the follies and absurdities of mankind are -taken out of that particular connection in which habit has reconciled -them to us, than to consider in how many instances they are essentially -the same. When an honest devotee of the church of Rome reads, that there -are Indians on the banks of the Ganges who believe that they shall -secure the happiness of a future state by dying with a cow’s tail in -their hands, he laughs at their folly and superstition; and if these -Indians were to be told, that there are people upon the continent of -Europe, who imagine that they shall derive the same advantage from dying -with the slipper of St. Francis upon their foot, they would laugh in -their turn. But if, when the Indian heard the account of the Catholic, -and the Catholic that of the Indian, each was to reflect, that there was -no difference between the absurdity of the slipper and of the tail; but -that the veil of prejudice and custom, which covered it in their own -case, was withdrawn in the other, they would turn their knowledge to a -profitable purpose. - -Having observed that bread-fruit had for some days been brought in less -quantities than usual, we enquired the reason; and were told, that there -being a great show of fruit upon the trees, they had been thinned all at -once, in order to make a kind of sour paste, which the natives call -_Mahie_, and which, in consequence of having undergone a fermentation, -will keep a considerable time, and supply them with food when no ripe -fruit is to be had. - -On the 10th the ceremony was to be performed, in honour of the old woman -whose sepulchral tabernacle has just been described, by the chief -mourner; and Mr. Banks had so great a curiosity to see all the mysteries -of the solemnity, that he determined to take a part in it, being told, -that he could be present upon no other condition. In the evening, -therefore, he repaired to the place where the body lay, and was received -by the daughter of the deceased, and several other persons, among whom -was a boy about fourteen years old, who were to assist in the ceremony. -Tubourai Tamaide was to be the principal mourner; and his dress, which -was extremely fantastical, though not unbecoming, is represented by a -figure in one of the plates. Mr. Banks was stripped of his European -clothes, and a small piece of cloth being tied round his middle, his -body was smeared with charcoal and water, as low as the shoulders, till -it was as black as that of a negro: the same operation was performed -upon several others, among whom were some women, who were reduced to a -state as near to nakedness as himself; the boy was blacked all over, and -then the procession set forward. Tubourai Tamaide uttered something, -which was supposed to be a prayer, near the body; and did the same when -he came up to his own house: when this was done, the procession was -continued towards the fort, permission having been obtained to approach -it upon this occasion. It is the custom of the Indians to fly from these -processions with the utmost precipitation, so that as soon as those who -were about the fort saw it at a distance they hid themselves in the -woods. It proceeded from the fort along the shore, and put to flight -another body of Indians, consisting of more than a hundred, every one -hiding himself under the first shelter that he could find: it then -crossed the river, and entered the woods, passing several houses, all -which were deserted, and not a single Indian could be seen during the -rest of the procession, which continued more than half an hour. The -office that Mr. Banks performed, was called that of the _Nineveh_, of -which there were two besides himself; and the natives having all -disappeared, they came to the chief mourner, and said, _Imatata_, there -are no people; after which the company was dismissed to wash themselves -in the river, and put on their customary apparel. - -On the 12th, complaint being made to me, by some of the natives, that -two of the seamen had taken from them several bows and arrows, and some -strings of plaited hair, I examined the matter, and finding the charge -well supported, I punished each of the criminals with two-dozen lashes. - -Their bows and arrows have not been mentioned before, nor were they -often brought down to the fort. This day, however, Tubourai Tamaide -brought down his, in consequence of a challenge which he had received -from Mr. Gore. The chief supposed it was to try who could send the arrow -farthest; Mr. Gore, who best could hit a mark; and as Mr. Gore did not -value himself upon shooting to a great distance, nor the chief upon -hitting a mark, there was no trial of skill between them. Tubourai -Tamaide, however, to show us what he could do, drew his bow, and sent an -arrow, none of which are feathered, two hundred and seventy-four yards, -which is something more than a seventh, and something less than a sixth -part of a mile. Their manner of shooting is somewhat singular; they -kneel down, and the moment the arrow is discharged drop the bow. - -Mr. Banks, in his morning walk this day, met a number of the natives, -whom, upon enquiry, he found to be travelling musicians; and having -learnt where they were to be at night, we all repaired to the place. The -band consisted of two flutes and three drums, and we found a great -number of people assembled upon the occasion. The drummers accompanied -the music with their voices, and, to our great surprise, we discovered -that we were generally the subject of the song. We did not expect to -have found among the uncivilized inhabitants of this sequestered spot a -character, which has been the subject of such praise and veneration -where genius and knowledge have been most conspicuous; yet these were -the bards or minstrels of Otaheite. Their song was unpremeditated, and -accompanied with music; they were continually going about from place to -place, and they were rewarded by the master of the house, and the -audience, with such things as one wanted and the other could spare. - -On the 14th, we were brought into new difficulties and inconvenience by -another robbery at the fort. In the middle of the night, one of the -natives contrived to steal an iron coal-rake, that was made use of for -the oven. It happened to be set up against the inside of the wall, so -that the top of the handle was visible from without; and we were -informed that the thief, who had been seen lurking there in the evening, -came secretly about three o’clock in the morning, and, watching his -opportunity when the sentinel’s back was turned, very dexterously laid -hold of it with a long crooked stick, and drew it over the wall. I -thought it of some consequence, if possible, to put an end to these -practices at once, by doing something that should make it the common -interest of the natives themselves to prevent them. I had given strict -orders that they should not be fired upon, even when detected in these -attempts, for which I had many reasons: the common sentinels were by no -means fit to be intrusted with a power of life and death, to be exerted -whenever they should think fit, and I had already experienced that they -were ready to take away the lives that were in their power upon the -slightest occasion; neither, indeed, did I think that the thefts which -these people committed against us were, in them, crimes worthy of death: -that thieves are hanged in England, I thought no reason why they should -be shot in Otaheite; because, with respect to the natives, it would have -been an execution by a law _ex post facto_. They had no such law among -themselves, and it did not appear to me that we had any right to make -such a law for them. That they should abstain from theft, or be punished -with death, was not one of the conditions under which they claimed the -advantages of civil society, as it is among us; and as I was not willing -to expose them to fire-arms, loaded with shot, neither could I perfectly -approve of firing only with powder. At first, indeed, the noise and the -smoke would alarm them, but when they found that no mischief followed, -they would be led to despise the weapons themselves, and proceed to -insults, which would make it necessary to put them to the test, and from -which they would be deterred by the very sight of a gun, if it was never -used but with effect. At this time an accident furnished me with what I -thought a happy expedient. It happened that above twenty of their -sailing canoes were just come in with a supply of fish: upon these I -immediately seized, and bringing them into the river behind the fort, -gave public notice, that except the rake, and all the rest of the things -which from time to time had been stolen, were returned, the canoes -should be burnt. This menace I ventured to publish, though I had no -design to put it into execution, making no doubt but that it was well -known in whose possession the stolen goods were, and that as restitution -was thus made a common cause, they would all of them in a short time be -brought back. A list of the things was made out, consisting principally -of the rake, the musket which had been taken from the marine when the -Indian was shot; the pistols which Mr. Banks lost with his clothes at -Atahourou; a sword belonging to one of the petty officers, and the -water-cask. About noon, the rake was restored, and great solicitation -was made for the release of the canoes; but I still insisted upon my -original condition. The next day came, and nothing farther was restored, -at which I was much surprised, for the people were in the utmost -distress for the fish, which in a short time would be spoilt; I was, -therefore, reduced to a disagreeable situation, either of releasing the -canoes, contrary to what I had solemnly and publicly declared, or to -detain them, to the great injury of those who were innocent, without -answering any good purpose to ourselves: as a temporary expedient, I -permitted them to take the fish; but still detained the canoes. This -very licence, however, was productive of new confusion and injury; for, -it not being easy at once to distinguish to what particular persons the -several lots of fish belonged, the canoes were plundered, under favour -of this circumstance, by those who had no right to any part of their -cargo. Most pressing instances were still made that the canoes might be -restored; and I having now the greatest reason to believe, either that -the things for which I detained them were not in the island, or that -those who suffered by their detention had not sufficient influence over -the thieves to prevail upon them to relinquish their booty, determined -at length to give them up, not a little mortified at the bad success of -my project. - -Another accident also about this time was, notwithstanding all our -caution, very near embroiling us with the Indians. I sent the boat on -shore with an officer to get ballast for the ship, and not immediately -finding stones convenient for the purpose, he began to pull down some -part of an enclosure where they deposited the bones of their dead. This -the Indians violently opposed, and a messenger came down to the tents to -acquaint the officers that they would not suffer it. Mr. Banks -immediately repaired to the place, and an amicable end was soon put to -the dispute by sending the boat’s crew to the river, where stones enough -were to be gathered without a possibility of giving offence. It is very -remarkable, that these Indians appeared to be much more jealous of what -was done to the dead than the living. This was the only measure in which -they ventured to oppose us, and the only insult that was offered to any -individual among us was upon a similar occasion. Mr. Monkhouse, -happening one day to pull a flower from a tree which grew in one of -their sepulchral enclosures, an Indian, whose jealousy had probably been -upon the watch, came suddenly behind him, and struck him. Mr. Monkhouse -laid hold of him, but he was instantly rescued by two more, who took -hold of Mr. Monkhouse’s hair, and forced him to quit his hold of their -companion, and then ran away without offering him any farther violence. - -In the evening of the 19th, while the canoes were still detained, we -received a visit from Oberea, which surprised us not a little, as she -brought with her none of the things that had been stolen, and knew that -she was suspected of having some of them in her custody. She said, -indeed, that her favourite Obadee, whom she had beaten and dismissed, -had taken them away; but she seemed conscious, that she had no right to -be believed. She discovered the strongest signs of fear, yet she -surmounted it with astonishing resolution; and was very pressing to -sleep with her attendants in Mr. Banks’s tent. In this, however, she was -not gratified; the affair of the jacket was too recent, and the tent was -besides filled with other people. Nobody else seemed willing to -entertain her, and she, therefore, with great appearance of -mortification and disappointment, spent the night in her canoe. - -The next morning early, she returned to the fort with her canoe, and -every thing that it contained, putting herself wholly into our power, -with something like greatness of mind, which excited our wonder and -admiration. As the most effectual means to bring about a reconciliation, -she presented us with a hog, and several other things, among which was a -dog. We had lately learnt, that these animals were esteemed by the -Indians as more delicate food than their pork; and upon this occasion we -determined to try the experiment. The dog, which was very fat, we -consigned over to Tupia, who undertook to perform the double office of -butcher and cook. He killed him by holding his hands close over his -mouth and nose, an operation which continued above a quarter of an hour. -While this was doing, a hole was made in the ground about a foot deep, -in which a fire was kindled, and some small stones placed in layers -alternately with the wood to heat; the dog was then singed, by holding -him over the fire, and, by scraping him with a shell, the hair taken off -as clean as if he had been scalded in hot water: he was then cut up with -the same instrument, and his entrails, being taken out, were sent to the -sea, where, being carefully washed, they were put into cocoa-nut shells, -with what blood had come from the body. When the hole was sufficiently -heated, the fire was taken out, and some of the stones, which were not -so hot as to discolour any thing that they touched, being placed at the -bottom, were covered with green leaves. The dog, with the entrails, was -then placed upon the leaves, and other leaves being laid upon them, the -whole was covered with the rest of the hot stones, and the mouth of the -hole close stopped with mould. In somewhat less than four hours it was -again opened, and the dog taken out excellently baked, and we all agreed -that he made a very good dish. The dogs which are here bred to be eaten -taste no animal food, but are kept wholly upon bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, -yams, and other vegetables of the like kind: all the flesh and fish -eaten by the inhabitants is dressed in the same way. - -On the 21st we were visited at the fort by a chief, called OAMO, whom we -had never seen before, and who was treated by the natives with uncommon -respect; he brought with him a boy about seven years old, and a young -woman about sixteen: the boy was carried upon a man’s back, which we -considered as a piece of state, for he was as well able to walk as any -present. As soon as they were in sight, Oberea, and several other -natives who were in the fort, went out to meet them, having first -uncovered their heads and bodies as low as the waist: as they came on, -the same ceremony was performed by all the natives who were without the -fort. Uncovering the body, therefore, is in this country probably a mark -of respect; and as all parts are here exposed with equal indifference, -the ceremony of uncovering it from the waist downwards, which was -performed by Oorattooa, might be nothing more than a different mode of -compliment, adapted to persons of a different rank. The chief came into -the tent, but no entreaty could prevail upon the young woman to follow -him, though she seemed to refuse contrary to her inclination. The -natives without were, indeed, all very solicitous to prevent her, -sometimes, when her resolution seemed to fail, almost using force: the -boy also they restrained in the same manner; but Dr. Solander, happening -to meet him at the gate, took him by the hand, and led him in before the -people were aware of it. As soon, however, as those that were within saw -him, they took care to have him sent out. - -These circumstances having strongly excited our curiosity, we inquired -who they were, and were informed, that Oamo was the husband of Oberea, -though they had been a long time separated by mutual consent; and that -the young woman and the boy were their children. We learnt also, that -the boy, whose name was TERRIDIRI, was heir-apparent to the sovereignty -of the island, and that his sister was intended for his wife, the -marriage being deferred only till he should arrive at a proper age. The -sovereign at this time was a son of WHAPPAI, whose name was OUTOU, and -who, as before has been observed, was a minor. Whappai, Oamo, and -Tootahah, were brothers: Whappai was the eldest, and Oamo the second; so -that, Whappai having no child but Outou, Terridiri, the son of his next -brother Oamo, was heir to the sovereignty. It will, perhaps, seem -strange that a boy should be sovereign during the life of his father; -but, according to the custom of the country, a child succeeds to a -father’s title and authority as soon as it is born: a regent is then -elected, and the father of the new sovereign is generally continued in -his authority, under that title, till his child is of age; but, at this -time, the choice had fallen upon Tootahah, the uncle, in consequence of -his having distinguished himself in a war. Oamo asked many questions -concerning England and its inhabitants, by which he appeared to have -great shrewdness and understanding. - - - - - CHAP. XV. - -AN ACCOUNT OF THE CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF THE ISLAND, AND VARIOUS INCIDENTS - THAT HAPPENED DURING THE EXPEDITION; WITH A DESCRIPTION OF A - BURYING-PLACE AND PLACE OF WORSHIP, CALLED A MORAI. - - -ON Monday, the 26th, about three o’clock in the morning, I set out in -the pinnace, accompanied by Mr. Banks, to make the circuit of the -island, with a view to sketch out the coast and harbours. We took our -route to the eastward, and about eight in the forenoon we went on shore, -in a district called OAHOUNUE, which is governed by AHIO, a young chief, -whom we had often seen at the tents, and who favoured us with his -company to breakfast. Here also we found two other natives of our old -acquaintance, TITUBOALO and HOONA, who carried us to their houses, near -which we saw the body of the old woman, at whose funeral rites Mr. Banks -had assisted, and which had been removed hither from the spot where it -was first deposited, this place having descended from her by inheritance -to Hoona, and it being necessary on that account that it should lie -here. We then proceeded on foot, the boat attending within call, to the -harbour in which Mr. Bougainville lay, called OHIDEA, where the natives -showed us the ground upon which his people pitched their tent, and the -brook at which they watered, though no trace of them remained, except -the holes where the poles of the tent had been fixed, and a small piece -of potsheard, which Mr. Banks found in looking narrowly about the spot. -We met, however, with ORETTE, a chief who was their principal friend, -and whose brother, OUTORROU, went away with them. - -This harbour lies on the west side of a great bay, under shelter of a -small island called Boourou, near which is another called TAAWIRRII; the -breach in the reefs is here very large, but the shelter for the ships is -not the best. - -Soon after we had examined this place, we took boat, and asked Tituboalo -to go with us to the other side of the bay; but he refused, and advised -us not to go, for he said the country there was inhabited by people who -were not subject to Tootahah, and who would kill both him and us. Upon -receiving this intelligence, we did not, as may be imagined, relinquish -our enterprise; but we immediately loaded our pieces with ball: this was -so well understood by Tituboalo as a precaution which rendered us -formidable, that he now consented to be of our party. - -Having rowed till it was dark, we reached a low neck of land, or -isthmus, at the bottom of the bay, that divides the island into two -peninsulas, each of which is a district or government wholly independent -of the other. From Port-Royal, where the ship was at anchor, the coast -trends E. by S. and E. S. E. ten miles, then S. by E. and S. eleven -miles to the isthmus. In the first direction, the shore is in general -open to the sea; but in the last it is covered by reefs of rocks, which -form several good harbours, with safe anchorage, in 16, 18, 20, and 24 -fathom of water, with other conveniences. As we had not yet got into our -enemy’s country, we determined to sleep on shore. We landed, and though -we found but few houses, we saw several double canoes, whose owners were -well known to us, and who provided us with supper and lodging; of which -Mr. Banks was indebted for his share to Ooratooa, the lady who had paid -him her compliments in so singular a manner at the fort. - -In the morning we looked about the country, and found it to be a marshy -flat, about two miles over, across which the natives haul their canoes -to the corresponding bay on the other side. We then prepared to continue -our route for what Tituboalo called the other kingdom; he said that the -name of it was TIARRABOU, or OTAHEITE ETE; and that of the chief who -governed it WAHEATUA. Upon this occasion, also, we learnt that the name -of the peninsula where we had taken our station was OPOUREONU, or -OTAHEITE NUE. Our new associate seemed to be now in better spirits than -he had been the day before: the people in Tiarrabou would not kill us, -he said; but he assured us that we should be able to procure no victuals -among them; and, indeed, we had seen no bread-fruit since we set out. - -After rowing a few miles, we landed in a district, which was the -dominion of a chief called MARAITATA, the burying-place of men, whose -father’s name was PAHAIREDO, the stealer of boats. Though these names -seemed to favour the account that had been given by Tituboalo, we soon -found that it was not true. Both the father and the son received us with -the greatest civility, gave us provisions, and, after some delay, sold -us a very large hog for a hatchet. A crowd soon gathered round us, but -we saw only two people that we knew; neither did we observe a single -bead or ornament among them that had come from our ship, though we saw -several things which had been brought from Europe. In one of the houses -lay two twelve-pound shot, one of which was marked with the broad arrow -of England, though the people said they had them from the ships that lay -in Bougainville’s harbour. - -We proceeded on foot till we came to the district which was immediately -under the government of the principal chief, or king of the peninsula, -Waheatua. Waheatua had a son, but whether, according to the custom of -Opoureonu, he administered the government as regent, or in his own -right, is uncertain. This district consists of a large and fertile -plain, watered by a river so wide, that we were obliged to ferry over it -in a canoe: our Indian train, however, chose to swim, and took to the -water with the same facility as a pack of hounds. In this place we saw -no house that appeared to be inhabited, but the ruins of many that had -been very large. We proceeded along the shore, which forms a bay, called -OAITIPEHA, and at last we found the chief sitting near some pretty canoe -awnings, under which, we supposed, he and his attendants slept. He was a -thin old man, with a very white head and beard, and had with him a -comely woman, about five-and-twenty years old, whose name was TOUDIDDE. -We had often heard the name of this woman, and, from report and -observation, we had reason to think that she was the OBEREA of this -peninsula. From this place, between which and the isthmus there are -other harbours, formed by the reefs that lie along the shore, where -shipping may lie in perfect security, and from whence the land trends S. -S. E. and S. to the S. E. part of the island, we were accompanied by -TEAREE, the son of Waheatua, of whom we had purchased a hog, and the -country we passed through appeared to be more cultivated than any we had -seen in other parts of the island: the brooks were every where banked -into narrow channels with stone, and the shore had also a facing of -stone, where it was washed by the sea. The houses were neither large nor -numerous, but the canoes that were hauled up along the shore were almost -innumerable, and superior to any that we had seen before, both in size -and make; they were longer, the sterns were higher, and the awnings were -supported by pillars. At almost every point there was a sepulchral -building, and there were many of them also inland. They were of the same -figure as those in Opoureonu, but they were cleaner and better kept, and -decorated with many carved boards, which were set upright, and on the -top of which were various figures of birds and men. On one in -particular, there was the representation of a cock, which was painted -red and yellow, to imitate the feathers of that animal, and rude images -of men were, in some of them, placed one upon the head of another. But -in this part of the country, however fertile and cultivated, we did not -see a single bread-fruit: the trees were entirely bare; and the -inhabitants seemed to subsist principally upon nuts, which are not -unlike a chesnut, and which they call _Ahee_. - -When we had walked till we were weary, we called up the boat, but both -our Indians, Tituboalo and Tuahow, were missing: they had, it seems, -stayed behind at Waheatua’s, expecting us to return thither, in -consequence of a promise which had been extorted from us, and which we -had it not in our power to fulfil. - -Tearee, however, and another, embarked with us, and we proceeded till we -came abreast of a small island called OTOOAREITE; it being then dark, we -determined to land, and our Indians conducted us to a place where they -said we might sleep: it was a deserted house, and near it was a little -cove, in which the boat might lie with great safety and convenience. We -were, however, in want of provisions, having been very sparingly -supplied since we set out; and Mr. Banks immediately went into the woods -to see whether any could be procured. As it was dark, he met with no -people, and could find but one house that was inhabited: a bread-fruit -and a half, a few ahees, and some fire, were all that it afforded; upon -which, with a duck or two, and a few curlieus, we made our supper, -which, if not scanty, was disagreeable, by the want of bread, with which -we had neglected to furnish ourselves, as we depended upon meeting with -bread-fruit, and took up our lodging under the awning of a canoe -belonging to Tearee, which followed us. - -The next morning, after having spent some time in another fruitless -attempt to procure a supply of provisions, we proceeded round the -south-east point, part of which is not covered by any reef, but lies -open to the sea; and here the hill rises directly from the shore. At the -southernmost part of the island, the shore is again covered by a reef, -which forms a good harbour; and the land about it is very fertile. We -made this rout partly on foot, and partly in the boat: when we had -walked about three miles, we arrived at a place where we saw several -large canoes, and a number of people with them, whom we were agreeably -surprised to find were of our intimate acquaintance. Here, with much -difficulty, we procured some cocoa-nuts, and then embarked, taking with -us Tuahow, one of the Indians who had waited for us at Waheatua’s, and -had returned the night before, long after it was dark. - -When we came abreast of the south-east end of the island, we went -ashore, by the advice of our Indian guide, who told us that the country -was rich and good. The chief, whose name was MATHIABO, soon came down to -us, but seemed to be a total stranger both to us and to our trade: his -subjects, however, brought us plenty of cocoa-nuts, and about twenty -bread-fruit. The bread-fruit we bought at a very dear rate, but his -excellency sold us a pig for a glass-bottle, which he preferred to every -thing else that we could give him. We found in his possession a goose -and a turkey-cock, which, we were informed, had been left upon the -island by the Dolphin: they were both enormously fat, and so tame that -they followed the Indians, who were fond of them to excess, wherever -they went. - -In a long house in this neighbourhood, we saw what was altogether new to -us. At one end of it, fastened to a semicircular board, hung fifteen -human jaw-bones: they appeared to be fresh; and there was not one of -them that wanted a single tooth. A sight so extraordinary, strongly -excited our curiosity, and we made many enquiries about it; but at this -time could get no information, for the people either could not, or would -not, understand us. - -When we left this place, the chief, Mathiabo, desired leave to accompany -us, which was readily granted. He continued with us the remainder of the -day, and proved very useful, by piloting us over the shoals. In the -evening, we opened the bay on the north-west side of the island, which -answered to that on the south-east, so as at the isthmus, or carrying -place, almost to intersect the island, as I have observed before; and -when we had coasted about two-thirds of it, we determined to go on shore -for the night. We saw a large house at some distance, which Mathiabo -informed us belonged to one of his friends; and soon after several -canoes came off to meet us, having on board some very handsome women, -who, by their behaviour, seemed to have been sent to entice us on shore. -As we had before resolved to take up our residence here for the night, -little invitation was necessary. We found that the house belonged to the -chief of the district, whose name was WIVEROU: he received us in a very -friendly manner, and ordered his people to assist us in dressing our -provision, of which we had now got a tolerable stock. When our supper -was ready, we were conducted into that part of the house where Wiverou -was sitting, in order to eat it: Mathiabo supped with us; and Wiverou -calling for his supper at the same time, we ate our meal very sociably, -and with great good humour. When it was over, we began to enquire where -we were to sleep, and a part of the house was shown us, of which we were -told we might take possession for that purpose. We then sent for our -cloaks, and Mr. Banks began to undress, as his custom was, and, with a -precaution which he had been taught by the loss of the jackets at -Atahourou, sent his clothes aboard the boat, proposing to cover himself -with a piece of Indian cloth. When Mathiabo perceived what was doing, he -also pretended to want a cloak; and, as he had behaved very well, and -done us some service, a cloak was ordered for him. We lay down, and -observed that Mathiabo was not with us; but we supposed that he was gone -to bathe, as the Indians always do before they sleep. We had not waited -long, however, when an Indian, who was a stranger to us, came and told -Mr. Banks, that the cloak and Mathiabo had disappeared together. This -man had so far gained our confidence, that we did not at first believe -the report; but it being soon after confirmed by Tuahow, our own Indian, -we knew no time was to be lost. As it was impossible for us to pursue -the thief with any hope of success, without the assistance of the people -about us, Mr. Banks started up, and telling our case, required them to -recover the cloak; and to enforce this requisition, showed one of his -pocket-pistols, which he always kept about him. Upon the sight of the -pistol, the whole company took the alarm, and, instead of assisting to -catch the thief, or recover what had been stolen, began with great -precipitation to leave the place: one of them, however, was seized; upon -which he immediately offered to direct the chase: I set out, therefore, -with Mr. Banks; and though we ran all the way, the alarm had got before -us; for in about ten minutes we met a man bringing back the cloak, which -the thief had relinquished in great terror; and as we did not then think -fit to continue the pursuit, he made his escape. When we returned, we -found the house, in which there had been between two and three hundred -people, entirely deserted. It being, however, soon known that we had no -resentment against any body but Mathiabo, the chief, Wiverou, our host, -with his wife, and many others, returned, and took up their lodgings -with us for the night. In this place, however, we were destined to more -confusion and trouble; for about five o’clock in the morning our sentry -alarmed us, with an account that the boat was missing: he had seen her, -he said, about half an hour before, at her grappling, which was not -above fifty yards from the shore; but, upon hearing the sound of oars, -he had looked out again, and could see nothing of her. At this account -we started up greatly alarmed, and ran to the water-side: the morning -was clear and star light, so that we could see to a considerable -distance, but there was no appearance of the boat. Our situation was now -such as might justify the most terrifying apprehensions: as it was a -dead calm, and we could not therefore suppose her to have broken from -her grappling, we had great reason to fear that the Indians had attacked -her, and finding the people asleep, had succeeded in their enterprise: -we were but four, with only one musket and two pocket pistols, without a -spare ball or charge of powder for either. In this state of anxiety and -distress we remained a considerable time, expecting the Indians every -moment to improve their advantage, when, to our unspeakable -satisfaction, we saw the boat return, which had been driven from her -grappling by the tide; a circumstance to which, in our confusion and -surprise, we did not advert. - -As soon as the boat returned, we got our breakfast, and were impatient -to leave the place, lest some other vexatious accident should befall us. -It is situated on the north side of Tiarrabou, the south-east peninsula, -or division, of the island, and at the distance of about five miles -south-east from the isthmus, having a large and commodious harbour, -inferior to none in the island, about which the land is very rich in -produce. - -Notwithstanding we had had little communication with this division, the -inhabitants every where received us in a friendly manner: we found the -whole of it fertile and populous, and, to all appearance, in a more -flourishing state than Opoureonu, though it is not above one-fourth part -as large. - -The next district in which we landed was the last in Tiarrabou, and -governed by a chief, whose name we understood to be OMOE. Omoe was -building a house, and being therefore very desirous of procuring a -hatchet, he would have been glad to have purchased one with any thing -that he had in his possession; it happened, however, rather -unfortunately for him and us, that we had not one hatchet left in the -boat. We offered to trade with nails, but he would not part with any -thing in exchange for them; we therefore reimbarked, and put off our -boat, but the chief being unwilling to relinquish all hope of obtaining -something from us that would be of use to him, embarked in a canoe, with -his wife WHANNOOUDA, and followed us. After some time, we took them into -the boat, and when we had rowed about a league, they desired we would -put ashore: we immediately complied with his request, and found some of -his people, who had brought down a very large hog. We were as unwilling -to lose the hog, as the chief was to part with us, and it was indeed -worth the best axe we had in the ship; we therefore hit upon an -expedient, and told him, that if he would bring his hog to the fort at -MATAVAI, the Indian name for Port Royal bay, he should have a large axe, -and a nail into the bargain for his trouble. To this proposal, after -having consulted with his wife, he agreed, and gave us a large piece of -his country cloth as a pledge that he would perform his agreement, -which, however, he never did. - -At this place we saw a very singular curiosity: it was the figure of a -man, constructed of basket-work, rudely made, but not ill designed; it -was something more than seven feet high, and rather too bulky in -proportion to its height. The wicker skeleton was completely covered -with feathers, which were white where the skin was to appear, and black -in the parts which it is their custom to paint or stain, and upon the -head, where there was to be a representation of hair: upon the head also -were four protuberances, three in front and one behind, which we should -have called horns, but which the Indians dignified with the name of TATE -ETE, little men. The image was called MANIOE, and was said to be the -only one of the kind in Otaheite. They attempted to give us an -explanation of its use and design, but we had not then acquired enough -of their language to understand them. We learnt, however, afterwards, -that it was a representation of Mauwe, one of their Eatuas, or gods of -the second class. - -After having settled our affairs with Omoe, we proceeded on our return, -and soon reached Opoureonu, the north-west peninsula. After rowing a few -miles, we went on shore again, but the only thing we saw worth notice -was a repository for the dead, uncommonly decorated: the pavement was -extremely neat, and upon it was raised a pyramid, about five feet high, -which was entirely covered with the fruits of two plants, peculiar to -the country. Near the pyramid was a small image of stone, of very rude -workmanship, and the first instance of carving in stone that we had seen -among these people. They appeared to set a high value upon it, for it -was covered from the weather by a shed, that had been erected on -purpose. - -We proceeded in the boat, and passed through the only harbour, on the -south side of Opoureonu, that is fit for shipping. It is situated about -five miles to the westward of the isthmus, between two small islands -that lie near the shore, and about a mile distant from each other, and -affords good anchorage in eleven and twelve fathom water. We were now -not far from the district called PAPARRA, which belonged to our friends -Oamo and Oberea, where we proposed to sleep. We went on shore about an -hour before night, and found that they were both absent, having left -their habitations to pay us a visit at Matavai: this, however, did not -alter our purpose, we took up our quarters at the house of Oberea, -which, though small, was very neat, and at this time had no inhabitant -but her father, who received us with looks that bid us welcome. Having -taken possession, we were willing to improve the little day-light that -was left us, and therefore walked out to a point, upon which we had -seen, at a distance, trees that are here called _Etoa_, which generally -distinguish the places where these people bury the bones of their dead: -their name for such burying-grounds, which are also places of worship, -is MORAI. We were soon struck with the sight of an enormous pile, which, -we were told, was the morai of Oamo and Oberea, and the principal piece -of Indian architecture in the island. It was a pile of stone work, -raised pyramidically, upon an oblong base, or square, two hundred and -sixty-seven feet long, and eighty-seven wide. It was built like the -small pyramidal mounts upon which we sometimes fix the pillar of a -sun-dial, where each side is a flight of steps; the steps, however, at -the sides, were broader than those at the ends, so that it terminated, -not in a square of the same figure with the base but in a ridge, like -the roof of a house: there were eleven of these steps, each of which was -four feet high, so that the height of the pile was forty-four feet; each -step was formed of one course of white coral stone, which was neatly -squared and polished; the rest of the mass, for there was no hollow -within, consisted of round pebbles, which, from the regularity of their -figure, seemed to have been wrought. Some of the coral stones were very -large; we measured one of them, and found it three feet and a half by -two feet and a half. The foundation was of rock stones, which were also -squared; and one of them measured four feet seven inches by two feet -four. Such a structure, raised without the assistance of iron tools to -shape the stones, or mortar to join them, struck us with astonishment: -it seemed to be as compact and firm as it could have been made by any -workman in Europe, except that the steps, which range along its greatest -length, are not perfectly strait, but sink in a kind of hollow in the -middle, so that the whole surface, from end to end, is not a right line, -but a curve. The quarry stones, as we saw no quarry in the -neighbourhood, must have been brought from a considerable distance; and -there is no method of conveyance here but by hand: the coral must also -have been fished from under the water, where, though it may be found in -plenty, it lies at a considerable depth, never less than three feet. -Both the rock stone and the coral could be squared only by tools made of -the same substance, which must have been a work of incredible labour; -but the polishing was more easily effected by means of the sharp coral -sand, which is found every where upon the sea-shore in great abundance. -In the middle of the top stood the image of a bird, carved in wood; and -near it lay the broken one of a fish, carved in stone. The whole of this -pyramid made part of one side of a spacious area or square, nearly of -equal sides, being three hundred and sixty feet by three hundred and -fifty-four, which was walled in with stone, and paved with flat stones -in its whole extent; though there were growing in it, notwithstanding -the pavement, several of the trees which they call _Etoa_, and -plantains. About an hundred yards to the west of this building was -another paved area or court, in which were several small stages raised -on wooden pillars, about seven feet high, which are called by the -Indians _Ewattas_, and seem to be a kind of altars, as upon these are -placed provisions of all kinds as offerings to their gods: we have since -seen whole hogs placed upon them, and we found here the skulls of above -fifty, besides the skulls of a great number of dogs. - -The principal object of ambition among these people is to have a -magnificent morai, and this was a striking memorial of the rank and -power of Oberea. It has been remarked, that we did not find her invested -with the same authority that she exercised when the Dolphin was at this -place, and we now learnt the reason of it. Our way from her house to the -morai lay along the sea-side, and we observed every where under our feet -a great number of human bones, chiefly ribs and vertebræ. Upon enquiring -into the cause of so singular an appearance, we were told, that in the -then last month of _Owarahew_, which answered to our December, 1768, -about four or five months before our arrival, the people of Tiarrabou, -the S. E. peninsula which we had just visited, made a descent at this -place, and killed a great number of people, whose bones were those that -we saw upon the shore: that, upon this occasion, Oberea, and Oamo, who -then administered the government for his son, had fled to the mountains; -and that the conquerors burnt all the houses, which were very large, and -carried away the hogs, and what other animals they found. We learnt -also, that the turkey and goose, which we had seen when we were with -Mathiabo, the stealer of cloaks, were among the spoils: this accounted -for their being found among people with whom the Dolphin had little or -no communication; and upon mentioning the jaw-bones, which we had seen -hanging from a board in a long house, we were told, that they also had -been carried away as trophies, the people here carrying away the -jaw-bones of their enemies, as the Indians of North America do the -scalps. - -After having thus gratified our curiosity, we returned to our quarters, -where we passed the night in perfect security and quiet. By the next -evening we arrived at Atahourou, the residence of our friend Tootahah, -where, the last time we passed the night under his protection, we had -been obliged to leave the best part of our clothes behind us. This -adventure, however, seemed now to be forgotten on both sides. Our -friends received us with great pleasure, and gave us a good supper and a -good lodging, where we suffered neither loss nor disturbance. - -The next day, Saturday, July the 1st, we got back to our fort at -Matavai, having found the circuit of the island, including both -peninsulas, to be about thirty leagues. Upon our complaining of the want -of bread-fruit, we were told, that the produce of the last season was -nearly exhausted; and that what was seen sprouting upon the trees, would -not be fit to use in less than three months: this accounted for our -having been able to procure so little of it in our route. - -While the bread-fruit is ripening upon the flats, the inhabitants are -supplied in some measure from the trees which they have planted upon the -hills to preserve a succession; but the quantity is not sufficient to -prevent scarcity: they live therefore upon the sour paste, which they -call _Mahie_, upon wild plantains, and ahee-nuts, which at this time are -in perfection. How it happened that the Dolphin, which was here at this -season, found such plenty of bread-fruit upon the trees I cannot tell, -except the season in which they ripen varies. - -At our return, our Indian friends crowded about us, and none of them -came empty-handed. Though I had determined to restore the canoes which -had been detained to their owners, it had not yet been done; but I now -released them as they were applied for. Upon this occasion I could not -but remark with concern, that these people were capable of practising -petty frauds against each other, with a deliberate dishonesty, which -gave me a much worse opinion of them than I had ever entertained from -the robberies they committed, under the strong temptation to which a -sudden opportunity of enriching themselves with the inestimable metal -and manufactures of Europe exposed them. - -Among others who applied to me for the release of a canoe, was one -POTATTOW, a man of some consequence, well known to us all. I consented, -supposing the vessel to be his own, or that he applied on the behalf of -a friend: he went immediately to the beach, and took possession of one -of the boats, which, with the assistance of his people, he began to -carry off. Upon this, however, it was eagerly claimed by the right -owners, who, supported by the other Indians, clamorously reproached him -for invading their property, and prepared to take the canoe from him by -force. Upon this, he desired to be heard, and told them, that the canoe -did, indeed, once belong to those who claimed it; but that I, having -seized it as a forfeit, had sold it to him for a pig. This silenced the -clamour: the owners, knowing that from my power there was no appeal, -acquiesced; and Potattow would have carried off his prize, if the -dispute had not fortunately been overheard by some of our people, who -reported it to me. I gave orders immediately that the Indians should be -undeceived; upon which the right owners took possession of their canoe, -and Potattow was so conscious of his guilt, that neither he nor his -wife, who was privy to his knavery, could look us in the face for some -time afterwards. - - - - - CHAP. XVI. - - AN EXPEDITION OF MR. BANKS TO TRACE THE RIVER: MARKS OF SUBTERRANEOUS - FIRE: PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING THE ISLAND: AN ACCOUNT OF TUPIA. - - -ON the 3d, Mr. Banks set out early in the morning with some Indian -guides, to trace our river up the valley from which it issues, and -examine how far its banks were inhabited. For about six miles they met -with houses, not far distant from each other, on each side of the river, -and the valley was every where about four hundred yards wide from the -foot of the hill on one side to the foot of that on the other; but they -were now shown a house which they were told was the last that they would -see. When they came up to it, the master of it offered them refreshments -of cocoa-nuts and other fruits, of which they accepted. After a short -stay, they walked forward for a considerable time: in bad way it is not -easy to compute distances, but they imagined that they had walked about -six miles farther, following the course of the river, when they -frequently passed under vaults, formed by fragments of the rock, in -which they were told people who were benighted frequently passed the -night. Soon after they found the river banked by steep rocks, from which -a cascade, falling with great violence, formed a pool, so steep, that -the Indians said they could not pass it. They seemed, indeed, not much -to be acquainted with the valley beyond this place, their business lying -chiefly upon the declivity of the rocks on each side, and the plains -which extended on their summits, where they found plenty of wild -plantain, which they called _Vae_. The way up these rocks from the banks -of the river was in every respect dreadful: the sides were nearly -perpendicular, and in some places one hundred feet high: they were also -rendered exceedingly slippery by the water of innumerable springs which -issued from the fissures on the surface: yet up these precipices a way -was to be traced by a succession of long pieces of the bark of the -_Hibiscus tiliaceus_, which served as a rope for the climber to take -hold of, and assisted him in scrambling from one ledge to another, -though upon these ledges there was footing only for an Indian or a goat. -One of these ropes was nearly thirty feet in length, and their guides -offered to assist them in mounting this pass, but recommended another at -a little distance lower down, as less difficult and dangerous. They took -a view of this “better way,” but found it so bad that they did not -choose to attempt it, as there was nothing at the top to reward their -toil and hazard, but a grove of the wild plantain or vae tree, which -they had often seen before. - -During this excursion, Mr. Banks had an excellent opportunity to examine -the rocks, which were almost every where naked, for minerals; but he -found not the least appearance of any. The stones every where, like -those of Madeira, showed manifest tokens of having been burnt; nor is -there a single specimen of any stone, among all those that were -collected in the island, upon which there are not manifest and -indubitable marks of fire; except, perhaps, some small pieces of the -hatchet-stone, and even of that, other fragments were collected which -were burnt almost to a pumice. Traces of fire are also manifest in the -very clay upon the hills; and it may, therefore, not unreasonably be -supposed, that this and the neighbouring islands are either shattered -remains of a continent, which some have supposed to be necessary in this -part of the globe, to preserve an equilibrium of its parts, which were -left behind when the rest sunk by the mining of a subterraneous fire, so -as to give a passage to the sea over it; or were torn from rocks, which, -from the creation of the world, had been the bed of the sea, and thrown -up in heaps, to a height which the waters never reach. One or other of -these suppositions will perhaps be thought the more probable, as the -water does not gradually grow shallow as the shore is approached, and -the islands are almost every where surrounded by reefs, which appear to -be rude and broken, as some violent concussion would naturally leave the -solid substance of the earth. It may also be remarked upon this -occasion, that the most probable cause of earthquakes seems to be the -sudden rushing in of water upon some vast mass of subterraneous fire, by -the instantaneous rarefaction of which into vapour the mine is sprung, -and various substances, in all stages of vitrification, with shells, and -other marine productions, that are now found fossil, and the strata that -covered the furnace, are thrown up; while those parts of the land which -were supported upon the broken shell give way, and sink into the gulf. -With this theory the phænomena of all earthquakes seem to agree: pools -of water are frequently left where land has subsided; and various -substances, which manifestly appear to have suffered by the action of -fire, are thrown up. It is indeed true, that fire cannot subsist without -air; but this cannot be urged against there being fire below that part -of the earth which forms the bed of the sea; because there may be -innumerable fissures by which a communication between those parts and -the external air may be kept up, even upon the highest mountains, and at -the greatest distance from the sea-shore. - -On the 4th, Mr. Banks employed himself in planting a great quantity of -the seeds of water melons, oranges, lemons, limes, and other plants and -trees which he had collected at Rio de Janeiro. For these he prepared -ground on each side of the fort, with as many varieties of soil as he -could choose; and there is little doubt but that they will succeed. He -also gave liberally of these seeds to the Indians, and planted many of -them in the woods: some of the melon seeds having been planted soon -after our arrival, the natives showed him several of the plants which -appeared to be in the most flourishing condition, and were continually -asking him for more. - -We now began to prepare for our departure, by bending the sails and -performing other necessary operations on board the ship, our water being -already on board, and the provisions examined. In the mean time we had -another visit from Oamo, Oberea, and their son and daughter; the Indians -expressing their respect by uncovering the upper parts of their body as -they had done before. The daughter, whose name we understood to be -TOIMATA, was very desirous to see the fort, but her father would by no -means suffer her to come in. Tearee, the son of Waheatua, the sovereign -of Tiarrabou, the south-east peninsula, was also with us at this time; -and we received intelligence of the landing of another guest, whose -company was neither expected nor desired: this was no other than the -ingenious gentleman who contrived to steal our quadrant. We were told, -that he intended to try his fortune again in the night; but the Indians -all offered very zealously to assist us against him, desiring that, for -this purpose, they might be permitted to lie in the fort. This had so -good an effect, that the thief relinquished his enterprise in despair. - -On the 7th, the carpenters were employed in taking down the gates and -pallisadoes of our little fortification, for firewood on board the ship; -and one of the Indians had dexterity enough to steal the staple and hook -upon which the gate turned: he was immediately pursued, and after a -chace of six miles, he appeared to have been passed, having concealed -himself among some rushes in the brook; the rushes were searched, and -though the thief had escaped, a scraper was found which had been stolen -from the ship some time before; and soon after our old friend Tubourai -Tamaide brought us the staple. - -On the 8th and 9th, we continued to dismantle our fort, and our friends -still flocked about us; some, I believe, sorry at the approach of our -departure, and others desirous to make as much as they could of us while -we staid. - -We were in hopes that we should now leave the island, without giving or -receiving any other offence; but it unfortunately happened otherwise. -Two foreign seamen having been out with my permission, one of them was -robbed of his knife, and endeavouring to recover it, probably with -circumstances of great provocation, the Indians attacked him, and -dangerously wounded him with a stone; they wounded his companion also -slightly in the head, and then fled into the mountains. As I should have -been sorry to take any farther notice of the affair, I was not -displeased that the offenders had escaped; but I was immediately -involved in a quarrel which I very much regretted, and which yet it was -not possible to avoid. - -In the middle of the night between the 8th and 9th, Clement Webb and -Samuel Gibson, two of the marines, both young men, went privately from -the fort, and in the morning were not to be found. As public notice had -been given, that all hands were to go on board on the next day, and that -the ship would sail on the morrow of that day or the day following, I -began to fear that the absentees intended to stay behind. I knew that I -could take no effectual steps to recover them, without endangering the -harmony and good-will which at present subsisted among us; and therefore -determined to wait a day for the chance of their return. - -On Monday morning the 10th, the marines, to my great concern, not being -returned, an enquiry was made after them of the Indians, who frankly -told us, that they did not intend to return, and had taken refuge in the -mountains, where it was impossible for our people to find them. They -were then requested to assist in the search, and after some -deliberation, two of them undertook to conduct such persons as I should -think proper to send after them to the place of their retreat. As they -were known to be without arms, I thought two would be sufficient, and -accordingly dispatched a petty officer, and the corporal of the marines, -with the Indian guides, to fetch them back. As the recovery of these men -was a matter of great importance, as I had no time to lose, and as the -Indians spoke doubtfully of their return, telling us, that they had each -of them taken a wife, and were become inhabitants of the country, it was -intimated to several of the chiefs who were in the fort with their -women, among whom were Tubourai Tamaide, Tomio, and Oberea, that they -would not be permitted to leave it till our deserters were brought back. -This precaution I thought the more necessary, as, by concealing them a -few days, they might compel me to go without them; and I had the -pleasure to observe, that they received the intimation with very little -signs either of fear or discontent; assuring me that my people should be -secured and sent back as soon as possible. While this was doing at the -fort, I sent Mr. Hicks in the pinnace to fetch Tootahah on board the -ship, which he did, without alarming either him or his people. If the -Indian guides proved faithful and in earnest, I had reason to expect the -return of my people with the deserters before evening. Being -disappointed, my suspicions increased; and night coming on, I thought it -was not safe to let the people whom I had detained as hostages continue -at the fort, and I therefore ordered Tubourai Tamaide, Oberea, and some -others, to be taken on board the ship. This spread a general alarm, and -several of them, especially the women, expressed their apprehensions -with great emotion and many tears when they were put into the boat. I -went on board with them, and Mr. Banks remained on shore, with some -others whom I thought it of less consequence to secure. - -About nine o’clock, Webb was brought back by some of the natives, who -declared, that Gibson, and the petty officer and corporal, would be -detained till Tootahah should be set at liberty. The tables were now -turned upon me; but I had proceeded too far to retreat. I immediately -dispatched Mr. Hicks in the long-boat, with a strong party of men, to -rescue the prisoners, and told Tootahah that it behoved him to send some -of his people with them, with orders to afford them effectual -assistance, and to demand the release of my men in his name, for that I -should expect him to answer for the contrary. He readily complied: this -party recovered my men without the least opposition; and about seven -o’clock in the morning returned with them to the ship, though they had -not been able to recover the arms which had been taken from them when -they were seized: these, however, were brought on board in less than -half an hour, and the chiefs were immediately set at liberty. - -When I questioned the petty officer concerning what had happened on -shore, he told me, that neither the natives who went with him, nor those -whom they met in their way, would give them any intelligence of the -deserters; but, on the contrary, became very troublesome: that, as he -was returning for further orders to the ship, he and his comrade were -suddenly seized by a number of armed men, who having learnt that -Tootahah was confined, had concealed themselves in a wood for that -purpose, and who, having taken them at a disadvantage, forced their -weapons out of their hands, and declared, that they would detain them -till their chief should be set at liberty. He said, however, that the -Indians were not unanimous in this measure; that some were for setting -them at liberty, and others for detaining them; that an eager dispute -ensued, and that from words they came to blows, but that the party for -detaining them at length prevailed; that soon after Webb and Gibson were -brought in by a party of the natives, as prisoners, that they also might -be secured as hostages for the chief; but that it was, after some -debate, resolved to send Webb to inform me of their resolution, to -assure me that his companions were safe, and direct me where I might -send my answer. Thus it appears, that, whatever were the disadvantages -of seizing the chiefs, I should never have recovered my men by any other -method. When the chiefs were set on shore from the ship, those at the -fort were also set at liberty, and, after staying with Mr. Banks about -an hour, they all went away. Upon this occasion, as they had done upon -another of the same kind, they expressed their joy by an undeserved -liberality, strongly urging us to accept of four hogs. These we -absolutely refused as a present, and they as absolutely refusing to be -paid for them, the hogs did not change masters. Upon examining the -deserters, we found that the account which the Indians had given of them -was true: they had strongly attached themselves to two girls, and it was -their intention to conceal themselves till the ship had sailed, and take -up their residence upon the island. This night every thing was got off -from the shore, and every body slept on board. - -Among the natives who were almost constantly with us, was Tupia, whose -name has been often mentioned in this narrative. He had been, as I have -before observed, the first minister of Oberea, when she was in the -height of her power: he was also the chief Tahowa or priest of the -island, consequently well acquainted with the religion of the country, -as well with respect to its ceremonies as principles. He had also great -experience and knowledge in navigation, and was particularly acquainted -with the number and situation of the neighbouring islands. This man had -often expressed a desire to go with us, and on the 12th in the morning, -having, with the other natives, left us the day before, he came on -board, with a boy about thirteen years of age, his servant, and urged us -to let him proceed with us on our voyage. To have such a person on board -was certainly desirable for many reasons; by learning his language, and -teaching him ours, we should be able to acquire a much better knowledge -of the customs, policy, and religion of the people, than our short stay -among them could give us, I therefore gladly agreed to receive them on -board. As we were prevented from sailing to-day, by having found it -necessary to make new stocks to our small and best bower anchors, the -old ones having been totally destroyed by the worms, Tupia said, he -would go once more on shore, and make a signal for the boat to fetch him -off in the evening. He went accordingly, and took with him a miniature -picture of Mr. Banks, to shew his friends, and several little things to -give them as parting presents. - -After dinner, Mr. Banks being desirous to procure a drawing of the Morai -belonging to Tootahah at Eparré, I attended him thither, accompanied by -Dr. Solander, in the pinnace. As soon as we landed, many of our friends -came to meet us, though some absented themselves in resentment of what -had happened the day before. We immediately proceeded to Tootahah’s -house, where we were joined by Oberea, with several others who had not -come out to meet us, and a perfect reconciliation was soon brought -about; in consequence of which they promised to visit us early the next -day, to take a last farewell of us, as we told them we should certainly -set sail in the afternoon. At this place also we found Tupia, who -returned with us, and slept this night on board the ship for the first -time. - -On the next morning, Thursday the 13th of July, the ship was very early -crowded with our friends, and surrounded by a multitude of canoes, which -were filled with the natives of an inferior class. Between eleven and -twelve we weighed anchor, and as soon as the ship was under sail, the -Indians on board took their leaves, and wept, with a decent and silent -sorrow, in which there was something very striking and tender: the -people in the canoes, on the contrary, seemed to vie with each other in -the loudness of their lamentations, which we considered rather as -affectation than grief. Tupia sustained himself in this scene with a -firmness and resolution truly admirable: he wept, indeed, but the effort -that he made to conceal his tears, concurred, with them, to do him -honour. He sent his last present, a shirt, by Otheothea, to Potomai, -Tootahah’s favourite mistress, and then went with Mr. Banks to the -mast-head, waving to the canoes as long as they continued in sight. - -Thus we took leave of Otaheite, and its inhabitants, after a stay of -just three months; for much the greater part of the time we lived -together in the most cordial friendship, and a perpetual reciprocation -of good offices. The accidental differences which now and then happened, -could not be more sincerely regretted on their part than they were on -ours: the principal causes were such as necessarily resulted from our -situation and circumstances, in conjunction with the infirmities of -human nature, from our not being able perfectly to understand each -other, and from the disposition of the inhabitants to theft, which we -could not at all times bear with or prevent. They had not, however, -except in one instance, been attended with any fatal consequence; and to -that accident were owing the measures that I took to prevent others of -the same kind. I hoped, indeed, to have availed myself of the impression -which had been made upon them by the lives that had been sacrificed in -their contest with the Dolphin, so as that the intercourse between us -should have been carried on wholly without bloodshed; and by this hope -all my measures were directed during the whole of my continuance at the -island; and I sincerely wish, that whoever shall next visit it, may be -still more fortunate. Our traffic here was carried on with as much order -as in the best regulated market in Europe. It was managed principally by -Mr. Banks, who was indefatigable in procuring provisions and -refreshments while they were to be had; but during the latter part of -our time they became scarce, partly by the increased consumption at the -fort and ship, and partly by the coming on of the season in which -cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit fail. All kind of fruit we purchased for -beads and nails; but no nails less than fortypenny were current: after a -very short time we could never get a pig of more than ten or twelve -pounds for less than a hatchet; because, though these people set a high -value upon spike-nails, yet these being an article with which many -people in the ship were provided, the women found a much more easy way -of procuring them than by bringing down provisions. - -The best articles for traffic here are axes, hatches, spikes, large -nails, looking-glasses, knives, and beads; for some of which, every -thing that the natives have may be procured. They are indeed fond of -fine linen cloth, both white and printed; but an axe worth half-a-crown -will fetch more than a piece of cloth worth twenty shillings. - - - - - CHAP. XVII. - - A PARTICULAR DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND; ITS PRODUCE AND INHABITANTS; - THEIR DRESS, HABITATIONS, FOOD, DOMESTIC LIFE, AND AMUSEMENTS. - - -WE found the longitude of Port-Royal bay, in this island, as settled by -Captain Wallis, who discovered it on the 9th of June, 1767, to be within -half a degree of the truth. We found Point Venus, the northern extremity -of the island, and the eastern point of the bay, to lie in the longitude -of 149° 13ʹ, this being the mean result of a great number of -observations made upon the spot. The island is surrounded by a reef of -coral rock, which forms several excellent bays and harbours, some of -which have been particularly described, where there is room and depth of -water for any number of the largest ships. Port-Royal bay, called by the -natives Matavai, which is not inferior to any in Otaheite, may easily be -known by a very high mountain in the middle of the island, which bears -due south from Point Venus. To sail into it, either keep the west point -of the reef that lies before Point Venus close on board, or give it a -birth of near half a mile, in order to avoid a small shoal of coral -rocks, on which there is but two fathom and a half of water. The best -anchoring is on the eastern side of the bay, where there is sixteen and -fourteen fathom upon an ousey bottom. The shore of the bay is a fine -sandy beach, behind which runs a river of fresh water, so that any -number of ships may water here without incommoding each other; but the -only wood for firing, upon the whole island, is that of fruit trees, -which must be purchased of the natives, or all hope of living upon good -terms with them given up. There are some harbours to the westward of -this bay which have not been mentioned; but, as they are contiguous to -it, and laid down in the plan, a description of them is unnecessary. - -The face of the country, except that part of it which borders upon the -sea, is very uneven; it rises in ridges that run up into the middle of -the island, and there form mountains, which may be seen at the distance -of sixty miles: between the foot of these ridges and the sea is a border -of low land, surrounding the whole island, except in a few places where -the ridges rise directly from the sea: the border of low land is in -different parts of different breadths, but no where more than a mile and -a half. The soil, except upon the very tops of the ridges, is extremely -rich and fertile, watered by a great number of rivulets of excellent -water, and covered with fruit trees of various kinds, some of which are -of a stately growth and thick foliage, so as to form one continued wood; -and even the tops of the ridges, though in general they are bare, and -burnt up by the sun, are, in some parts, not without their produce. - -The low land that lies between the foot of the ridges and the sea, and -some of the valleys, are the only parts of the island that are -inhabited, and here it is populous: the houses do not form villages or -towns, but are ranged along the whole border at the distance of about -fifty yards from each other, with little plantations of plantains, the -tree which furnishes them with cloth. The whole island, according to -Tupia’s account, who certainly knew, could furnish six thousand seven -hundred and eighty fighting men, from which the number of inhabitants -may easily be computed. - -The produce of this island is bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, of -thirteen sorts, the best we had ever eaten; plantains; a fruit not -unlike an apple, which, when ripe, is very pleasant; sweet potatoes, -yams, cocoas, a kind of _Arum_; a fruit known here by the name of -_Jambu_, and reckoned most delicious; sugar-cane, which the inhabitants -eat raw; a root of the salop kind, called by the inhabitants _Pea_; a -plant called _Ethee_, of which the root only is eaten; a fruit that -grows in a pod, like that of a large kidney-bean, which, when it is -roasted, eats very much like a chesnut, by the natives called _Ahee_; a -tree called _Wharra_, called in the East Indies _Pandanes_, which -produces fruit, something like the pine-apple; a shrub called _Nono_; -the _Morinda_, which also produces fruit; a species of fern, of which -the root is eaten, and sometimes the leaves; and a plant called _Theve_, -of which the root also is eaten: but the fruits of the _Nono_, the fern, -and the _Theve_, are eaten only by the inferior people, and in times of -scarcity. All these, which serve the inhabitants for food, the earth -produces spontaneously, or with so little culture, that they seem to be -exempted from the first general curse, that “man should eat his bread in -the sweat of his brow.” They have also the Chinese paper mulberry, -_morus papyrifera_, which they call _Aouta_; a tree resembling the wild -fig-tree of the West Indies; another species of fig, which they call -_Matte_; the _cordia sebestina orientalis_, which they call _Etou_; a -kind of Cyperus grass, which they call _Moo_; a species of -_tournefortia_, which they call _Taheinoo_; another of the _convolvulus -poluce_, which they call _Eurhe_; the _solanum centifolium_, which they -call _Ebooa_; the _calophyllum mophylum_, which they call _Tamannu_; the -_hibiscus tiliaceus_, called _Poerou_, a frutescent nettle; the _urtica -argentea_, called _Erowa_; with many other plants which cannot here be -particularly mentioned: those that have been named already will be -referred to in the subsequent part of this work. - -They have no European fruit, garden stuff, pulse, or legumes, nor grain -of any kind. - -Of tame animals they have only hogs, dogs, and poultry; neither is there -a wild animal in the island, except ducks, pigeons, paroquets, with a -few other birds, and rats, there being no other quadruped, nor any -serpent. But the sea supplies them with great variety of most excellent -fish, to eat which is their chief luxury, and to catch it their -principal labour. - -As to the people they are of the largest size of Europeans. The men are -tall, strong, well-limbed, and finely shaped. The tallest that we saw -was a man upon a neighbouring island, called HUAHEINE, who measured six -feet three inches and a half. The women of the superior rank are also in -general above our middle stature, but those of the inferior class are -rather below it, and some of them are very small. This defect in size -probably proceeds from their early commerce with men, the only thing in -which they differ from their superiors, that could possibly affect their -growth. - -Their natural complexion is that kind of clear olive, or _brunette_, -which many people in Europe prefer to the finest white and red. In those -that are exposed to the wind and sun, it is considerably deepened, but -in others that live under shelter, especially the superior class of -women, it continues of its native hue, and the skin is most delicately -smooth and soft: they have no tint in their cheeks, which we distinguish -by the name of colour. The shape of the face is comely, the cheek-bones -are not high, neither are the eyes hollow, nor the brow prominent: the -only feature that does not correspond with our ideas of beauty is the -nose, which, in general, is somewhat flat; but their eyes, especially -those of the women, are full of expression, sometimes sparkling with -fire, and sometimes melting with softness; their teeth also are, almost -without exception, most beautifully even and white, and their breath -perfectly without taint. - -The hair is almost universally black, and rather coarse: the men have -beards, which they wear in many fashions, always, however, plucking out -great part of them, and keeping the rest perfectly clean and neat. Both -sexes also eradicate every hair from under their arms, and accused us of -great uncleanliness for not doing the same. In their motions there is at -once vigour and ease; their walk is graceful, their deportment liberal, -and their behaviour to strangers and to each other affable and -courteous. In their dispositions, also, they seemed to be brave, open, -and candid, without either suspicion or treachery, cruelty or revenge; -so that we placed the same confidence in them as in our best friends, -many of us, particularly Mr. Banks, sleeping frequently in their houses -in the woods, without a companion, and consequently wholly in their -power. They were, however, all thieves; and when that is allowed, they -need not much fear a competition with the people of any other nation -upon earth. During our stay in this island, we saw about five or six -persons, like one that was met by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander on the 24th -of April, in their walk to the eastward, whose skins were of a dead -white, like the nose of a white horse; with white hair, beard, brows, -and eye-lashes; red, tender eyes; a short sight, and scurfy skins, -covered with a kind of white down; but we found that no two of these -belonged to the same family, and therefore concluded, that they were not -a species, but unhappy individuals, rendered anomalous by disease. - -It is a custom in most countries where the inhabitants have long hair, -for the men to cut it short, and the women to pride themselves in its -length. Here, however, the contrary custom prevails; the women always -cut it short round their ears, and the men, except the fishers, who are -almost continually in the water, suffer it to flow in large waves over -their shoulders, or tie it up in a bunch on the top of their heads. - -They have a custom, also, of anointing their heads, with what they call -_Monoe_, an oil expressed from the cocoa-nut, in which some sweet herbs -or flowers have been infused: as the oil is generally rancid, the smell -is at first very disagreeable to a European; and as they live in a hot -country, and have no such thing as a comb, they are not able to keep -their heads free from lice, which the children and common people -sometimes pick out and eat; a hateful custom, wholly different from -their manners in every other particular; for they are delicate and -cleanly almost without example; and those to whom we distributed combs -soon delivered themselves from vermin, with a diligence which showed -that they were not more odious to us than to them. - -They have a custom of staining their bodies, nearly in the same manner -as is practised in many other parts of the world, which they call -_Tattowing_. They prick the skin, so as just not to fetch blood, with a -small instrument, something in the form of a hoe; that part which -answers to the blade is made of a bone or shell, scraped very thin, and -is from a quarter of an inch to an inch and a half wide; the edge is cut -into sharp teeth or points, from the number of three to twenty, -according to its size: when this is to be used, they dip the teeth into -a mixture of a kind of lamp-black, formed of the smoke that rises from -an oily nut which they burn instead of candles, and water; the teeth, -thus prepared, are placed upon the skin, and the handle to which they -are fastened being struck, by quick smart blows, with a stick fitted to -the purpose, they pierce it, and at the same time carry into the -puncture the black composition, which leaves an indelible stain. The -operation is painful, and it is some days before the wounds are healed. -It is performed upon the youth of both sexes when they are about twelve -or fourteen years of age, on several parts of the body, and in various -figures, according to the fancy of the parent, or perhaps the rank of -the party. The women are generally marked with this stain, in the form -of a Z, on every joint of their fingers and toes, and frequently round -the outside of their feet: the men are also marked with the same figure, -and both men and women have squares, circles, crescents, and -ill-designed representations of men, birds, or dogs, and various other -devices impressed upon their legs, and arms, some of which, we were -told, had significations, though we could never learn what they were. -But the part on which these ornaments are lavished with the greatest -profusion is the breech: this, in both sexes, is covered with a deep -black; above which, arches are drawn one over another as high as the -short ribs. They are often a quarter of an inch broad, and the edges are -not straight lines, but indented. These arches are their pride, and are -shown both by men and women with a mixture of ostentation and pleasure; -whether as an ornament, or a proof of their fortitude and resolution in -bearing pain, we could not determine. The face in general is left -unmarked: for we saw but one instance to the contrary. Some old men had -the greatest part of their bodies covered with large patches of black, -deeply indented at the edges, like a rude imitation of flame; but we -were told, that they came from a low island, called NOOUOORA, and were -not natives of Otaheite. - -Mr. Banks saw the operation of _tattowing_ performed upon the backside -of a girl about thirteen years old. The instrument used upon this -occasion had thirty teeth, and every stroke, of which at least a hundred -were made in a minute, drew an ichor or serum a little tinged with -blood. The girl bore it with most stoical resolution for about a quarter -of an hour; but the pain of so many hundred punctures as she had -received in that time then became intolerable: she first complained in -murmurs, then wept, and at last burst into loud lamentations, earnestly -imploring the operator to desist. He was, however, inexorable; and when -she began to struggle, she was held down by two women, who sometimes -soothed and sometimes chid her, and now and then, when she was most -unruly, gave her a smart blow. Mr. Banks staid in a neighbouring house -an hour, and the operation was not over when he went away; yet it was -performed but upon one side, the other having been done some time -before; and the arches upon the loins, in which they most pride -themselves, and which give more pain than all the rest, were still to be -done. - -It is strange that these people should value themselves upon what is no -distinction; for I never saw a native of this island, either man or -woman, in a state of maturity, in whom these marks were wanting: -possibly they may have their rise in superstition, especially as they -produce no visible advantage, and are not made without great pain; but -though we enquired of many hundreds, we could never get any account of -the matter. - -Their clothing consists of cloth or matting of different kinds, which -will be described among their other manufactures. The cloth which will -not bear wetting they wear in dry weather, and the matting when it -rains: they are put on in many different ways, just as their fancy leads -them; for in their garments nothing is cut into shape, nor are any two -pieces sewed together. The dress of the better sort of women consists of -three or four pieces: one piece, about two yards wide, and eleven yards -long, they wrap several times round their waist, so as to hang down like -a petticoat as low as the middle of the leg, and this they call _Parou_: -two or three other pieces, about two yards and a half long, and one -wide, each having a hole cut in the middle, they place one upon another, -and then putting the head through the holes, they bring the long ends -down before and behind; the others remain open at the sides, and give -liberty to the arms: this, which they call the _Tebuta_, is gathered -round the waist, and confined with a girdle or sash of thinner cloth, -which is long enough to go many times round them, and exactly resembles -the garment worn by the inhabitants of Peru and Chili, which the -Spaniards call _Poncho_. The dress of the men is the same, except that, -instead of suffering the cloth that is wound about the hips to hang down -like a petticoat, they bring it between their legs so as to have some -resemblance to breeches, and it is then called _Maro_. This is the dress -of all ranks of people, and being universally the same as to form, the -gentlemen and ladies distinguish themselves from the lower people by the -quantity; some of them will wrap round them several pieces of cloth, -eight or ten yards long, and two or three broad; and some throw a large -piece loosely over their shoulders, in the manner of a cloak; or perhaps -two pieces, if they are very great personages, and are desirous to -appear in state. The inferior sort, who have only a small allowance of -cloth from the tribes or families to which they belong, are obliged to -be more thinly clad. In the heat of the day, they appear almost naked, -the women having only a scanty petticoat, and the men nothing but the -sash that is passed between their legs and fastened round the waist. As -finery is always troublesome, and particularly in a hot country, where -it consists in putting one covering upon another, the women of rank -always uncover themselves as low as the waist in the evening, throwing -off all that they wear on the upper part of the body, with the same -negligence and ease as our ladies would lay by a cardinal or double -handkerchief. And the chiefs, even when they visited us, though they had -as much cloth round their middle as would clothe a dozen people, had -frequently the rest of the body quite naked. - -Upon their legs and feet, they wear no covering; but they shade their -faces from the sun with little bonnets, either of matting or of -cocoa-nut leaves, which they make occasionally in a few minutes. This, -however, is not all their head-dress; the women sometimes wear little -turbans, and sometimes a dress which they value much more, and which, -indeed, is much more becoming, called _Tomou_: the _tomou_ consists of -human hair, plaited in threads, scarcely thicker than sewing silk. Mr. -Banks has pieces of it above a mile in length, without a knot. These -they wind round the head in such a manner as produces a very pretty -effect, and in a very great quantity; for I have seen five or six such -pieces wound about the head of one woman: among these threads they stick -flowers of various kinds, particularly the Cape-jessamine, of which they -have great plenty, as it is always planted near their houses. The men -sometimes stick the tail-feather of the Tropic-bird upright in their -hair, which, as I have observed before, is often tied in a bunch upon -the top of their heads: sometimes they wear a kind of whimsical garland, -made of flowers of various kinds, stuck into a piece of the rind of a -plantain; or of scarlet peas, stuck with gum upon a piece of wood: and -sometimes they wear a kind of wig, made of the hair of men or dogs, or -perhaps of cocoa-nut strings, woven upon one thread, which is tied under -their hair, so that these artificial honours of their head may hang down -behind. Their personal ornaments, besides flowers, are few; both sexes -wear ear-rings but they are placed only on one side: when we came they -consisted of small pieces of shell, stone, berries, red peas, or some -small pearls, three in a string; but our beads very soon supplanted them -all. - -The children go quite naked: the girls till they are three or four years -old; and the boys till they are six or seven. - -The houses, or rather dwellings, of these people, have been occasionally -mentioned before: they are all built in the wood, between the sea and -the mountains, and no more ground is cleared for each house than just -sufficient to prevent the dropping of the branches from rotting the -thatch with which they are covered; from the house, therefore, the -inhabitant steps immediately under the shade, which is the most -delightful that can be imagined. It consists of groves of bread-fruit -and cocoa-nuts, without underwood, which are intersected, in all -directions, by the paths that lead from one house to the other. Nothing -can be more grateful than this shade in so warm a climate, nor any thing -more beautiful than these walks. As there is no underwood, the shade -cools without impeding the air; and the houses, having no walls, receive -the gale from whatever point it blows. I shall now give a particular -description of a house of a middling size, from which, as the structure -is universally the same, a perfect idea may be formed both of those that -are bigger and those that are less. - -The ground which it covers is an oblong square, four-and-twenty feet -long, and eleven wide; over this a roof is raised, upon three rows of -pillars or posts, parallel to each other, one on each side, and the -other in the middle. This roof consists of two flat sides inclining to -each other, and terminating in a ridge, exactly like the roofs of our -thatched houses in England. The utmost height within is about nine feet, -and the eaves on each side reach to within about three feet and a half -of the ground: below this, and through the whole height, at each end, it -is open, no part of it being inclosed with a wall. The roof is thatched -with palm-leaves, and the floor is covered, some inches deep, with soft -hay; over this are laid mats, so that the whole is one cushion, upon -which they sit in the day, and sleep in the night. In some houses, -however, there is one stool, which is wholly appropriated to the master -of the family; besides this, they have no furniture, except a few little -blocks of wood, the upper side of which is hollowed into a curve, and -which serves them for pillows. - -The house is indeed principally used as a dormitory; for, except it -rains, they eat in the open air, under the shade of the next tree. The -clothes that they wear in the day serve them for covering in the night: -the floor is the common bed of the whole household, and is not divided -by any partition. The master of the house and his wife sleep in the -middle, next to them the married people, next to them the unmarried -women, and next to them, at a little distance, the unmarried men: the -servants, or _Toutous_, as they are called, sleep in the open air, -except it rains, and in that case they come just within the shade. - -There are, however, houses of another kind belonging to the chiefs, in -which there is some degree of privacy. These are much smaller, and so -constructed as to be carried about in their canoes from place to place, -and set up occasionally like a tent: they are enclosed on the sides with -cocoa-nut leaves, but not so close as to exclude the air, and the chief -and his wife sleep in them alone. - -There are houses also of a much larger size, not built either for the -accommodation of a single chief, or a single family; but as common -receptacles for all the people of a district. Some of them are two -hundred feet long, thirty broad, and, under the ridge, twenty feet high: -these are built and maintained at the common expence of the district, -for the accommodation of which they are intended; and have on one side -of them a large area, inclosed with low pallisadoes. - -These houses, like those of separate families, have no walls. Privacy, -indeed, is little wanted among people who have not even the idea of -indecency, and who gratify every appetite and passion before witnesses, -with no more sense of impropriety than we feel when we satisfy our -hunger at a social board with our family or friends. Those who have no -idea of indecency with respect to actions, can have none with respect to -words; it is, therefore, scarcely necessary to observe, that, in the -conversation of these people, that which is the principal source of -their pleasure is always the principal topic; and that every thing is -mentioned without any restraint or emotion, and in the most direct -terms, by both sexes. - -Of the food eaten here the greater part is vegetable. Here are no tame -animals except hogs, dogs, and poultry, as I have observed before, and -these are by no means plenty. When a chief kills a hog, it is almost -equally divided among his dependants; and, as they are very numerous, -the share of each individual at these feasts, which are not frequent, -must necessarily be small. Dogs and fowls fall somewhat more frequently -to the share of the common people. I cannot much commend the flavour of -their fowls; but we all agreed, that a South-sea dog was little inferior -to an English lamb: their excellence is probably owing to their being -kept up, and fed wholly upon vegetables. The sea affords them a great -variety of fish. The smaller fish, when they catch any, are generally -eaten raw, as we eat oysters; and nothing that the sea produces comes -amiss to them: they are fond of lobsters, crabs, and other shell-fish, -which are found upon the coast; and they will eat not only sea-insects, -but what the seamen call _Blubbers_, though some of them are so tough, -that they are obliged to suffer them to become putrid before they can be -chewed. Of the many vegetables that have been mentioned already as -serving them for food, the principal is the bread-fruit, to procure -which costs them no trouble or labour but climbing a tree: the tree -which produces it does not indeed shoot up spontaneously: but if a man -plants ten of them in his lifetime, which he may do in about an hour, he -will as completely fulfil his duty to his own and future generations as -the natives of our less temperate climate can do by ploughing in the -cold of winter, and reaping in the summer’s heat, as often as these -seasons return; even if, after he has procured bread for his present -household, he should convert a surplus into money, and lay it up for his -children. - -It is true, indeed, that the bread-fruit is not always in season; but -cocoa-nuts, bananas, plantains, and a great variety of other fruits, -supply the deficiency. - -It may well be supposed, that cookery is but little studied by these -people as an art; and, indeed, they have but two ways of applying fire -to dress their food, broiling and baking; the operation of broiling is -so simple that it requires no description, and their baking has been -described already, (page 154.) in the account of an entertainment -prepared for us by Tupia. Hogs, and large fish, are extremely well -dressed in the same manner; and, in our opinion, were more juicy and -more equally done than by any art of cookery now practised in Europe. -Bread-fruit is also cooked in an oven of the same kind, which renders it -soft, and something like a boiled potatoe; not quite so farinaceous as a -good one, but more so than those of the middling sort. - -Of the bread-fruit they also make three dishes, by putting either water -or the milk of the cocoa-nut to it, then beating it to a paste with a -stone pestle, and afterwards mixing it with ripe plantains, bananas, or -the sour paste which they call _Mahie_. - -The mahie, which has been mentioned as a succedaneum for ripe -bread-fruit, before the season for gathering a fresh crop comes on, is -thus made: - -The fruit is gathered just before it is perfectly ripe, and being laid -in heaps, is closely covered with leaves; in this state it undergoes a -fermentation, and becomes disagreeably sweet: the core is then taken out -entire, which is done by gently pulling the stalk, and the rest of the -fruit is thrown into a hole which is dug for that purpose, generally in -the houses, and neatly lined in the bottom and sides with grass; the -whole is then covered with leaves, and heavy stones laid upon them: in -this state it undergoes a second fermentation, and becomes sour, after -which it will suffer no change for many months: it is taken out of the -hole as it is wanted for use, and being made into balls, it is wrapped -up in leaves and baked; after it is dressed, it will keep five or six -weeks. It is eaten both cold and hot, and the natives seldom make a meal -without it, though to us the taste was as disagreeable as that of a -pickled olive generally is the first time it is eaten. - -As the making of this mahie depends, like brewing, upon fermentation, -so, like brewing, it sometimes fails, without their being able to -ascertain the cause; it is very natural, therefore, that the making it -should be connected with superstitious notions and ceremonies. It -generally falls to the lot of the old women, who will suffer no creature -to touch any thing belonging to it, but those whom they employ as -assistants, nor even to go into that part of the house where the -operation is carrying on. Mr. Banks happened to spoil a large quantity -of it only by inadvertently touching a leaf which lay upon it. The old -woman, who then presided over these mysteries, told him, that the -process would fail; and immediately uncovered the hole in a fit of -vexation and despair. Mr. Banks regretted the mischief he had done, but -was somewhat consoled by the opportunity which it gave him of examining -the preparation, which perhaps, but for such an accident, would never -have offered. - -Such is their food, to which salt water is the universal sauce, no meal -being eaten without it: those who live near the sea have it fetched as -it is wanted; those who live at some distance keep it in large bamboos, -which are set up in their houses for use. Salt water, however, is not -their only sauce; they make another of the kernels of cocoa-nuts, which -being fermented till they dissolve into a paste somewhat resembling -butter, are beaten up with salt water. The flavour of this is very -strong, and was, when we first tasted it, exceedingly nauseous; a little -use, however, reconciled some of our people to it so much, that they -preferred it to our own sauces, especially with fish. The natives seemed -to consider it as a dainty, and do not use it at their common meals; -possibly, because they think it ill management to use cocoa-nuts so -lavishly, or, perhaps, when we were at the island, they were scarcely -ripe enough for the purpose. - -For drink, they have in general nothing but water, or the juice of the -cocoa-nut; the art of producing liquors that intoxicate, by -fermentation, being happily unknown among them; neither have they any -narcotic which they chew, as the natives of some other countries do -opium, beetle-root, and tobacco. Some of them drank freely of our -liquors, and in a few instances became very drunk; but the persons to -whom this happened were so far from desiring to repeat the debauch, that -they would never touch any of our liquors afterwards. We were, however, -informed, that they became drunk by drinking a juice that is expressed -from the leaves of a plant which they call _Ava Ava_. This plant was not -in season when we were there, so that we saw no instances of its -effects; and as they considered drunkenness as a disgrace, they probably -would have concealed from us any instances which might have happened -during our stay. This vice is almost peculiar to the chiefs, and -considerable persons, who vie with each other in drinking the greatest -number of draughts, each draught being about a pint. They keep this -intoxicating juice with great care from their women. - -Table they have none; but their apparatus for eating is set out with -great neatness, though the articles are too simple and too few to allow -any thing for show; and they commonly eat alone; but when a stranger -happens to visit them, he sometimes makes a second in their mess. Of the -meal of one of their principal people I shall give a particular -description. - -He sits down under the shade of the next tree, or on the shady side of -his house, and a large quantity of leaves, either of the bread-fruit or -banana, are neatly spread before him upon the ground as a table-cloth; a -basket is then set by him that contains his provision, which, if fish or -flesh, is ready dressed, and wrapped up in leaves, and two cocoa-nut -shells, one full of salt water, and the other of fresh: his attendants, -which are not few, seat themselves round him, and when all is ready, he -begins by washing his hands and his mouth thoroughly with the fresh -water, and this he repeats almost continually throughout the whole meal; -he then takes part of his provision out of the basket, which generally -consists of a small fish or two, two or three bread-fruits, fourteen or -fifteen ripe bananas, or six or seven apples; he first takes half a -bread-fruit, peels off the rind, and takes out the core with his nails; -of this he puts as much into his mouth as it can hold, and while he -chews it, takes the fish out of the leaves, and breaks one of them into -the salt water, placing the other, and what remains of the bread-fruit, -upon the leaves that have been spread before him. When this is done, he -takes up a small piece of the fish that has been broken into the salt -water, with all the fingers of one hand, and sucks it into his mouth, so -as to get with it as much of the salt water as possible: in the same -manner he takes the rest by different morsels, and between each, at -least very frequently, takes a small sup of the salt water, either out -of the cocoa-nut shell, or the palm of his hand: in the mean time one of -his attendants has prepared a young cocoa-nut, by peeling off the outer -rind with his teeth, an operation which to an European appears very -surprising; but it depends so much upon slight, that many of us were -able to do it before we left the island, and some that could scarcely -crack a filbert: the master, when he chooses to drink, takes the -cocoa-nut thus prepared, and boring a hole through the shell with his -finger, or breaking it with a stone, he sucks out the liquor. When he -has eaten his bread-fruit and fish, he begins with his plantains, one of -which makes but a mouthful, though it be as big as a black-pudding; if, -instead of plantains, he has apples, he never tastes them till they have -been pared; to do this a shell is picked up from the ground, where they -are always in plenty, and tossed to him by an attendant: he immediately -begins to cut or scrape off the rind, but so awkwardly that great part -of the fruit is wasted. If, instead of fish, he has flesh, he must have -some succedaneum for a knife to divide it; and for this purpose a piece -of bamboo is tossed to him, of which he makes the necessary implement by -splitting it transversely with his nail. While all this has been doing, -some of his attendants have been employed in beating bread-fruit with a -stone pestle upon a block of wood; by being beaten in this manner, and -sprinkled from time to time with water, it is reduced to the consistence -of a soft paste, and is then put into a vessel somewhat like a butcher’s -tray, and either made up alone, or mixed with banana or mahie, according -to the taste of the master, by pouring water upon it by degrees and -squeezing it often through the hand: under this operation it acquires -the consistence of a thick custard, and a large cocoa-nut shell full of -it being set before him, he sips it as we should do a jelly if we had no -spoon to take it from the glass: the meal is then finished by again -washing his hands and his mouth. After which the cocoa-nut shells are -cleaned, and every thing that is left is replaced in the basket. - -The quantity of food which these people eat at a meal is prodigious: I -have seen one man devour two or three fishes as big as a perch; three -bread-fruits, each bigger than two fists; fourteen or fifteen plantains -or bananas, each of them six or seven inches long, and four or five -round; and near a quart of the pounded bread-fruit, which is as -substantial as the thickest unbaked custard. This is so extraordinary -that I scarcely expect to be believed; and I would not have related it -upon my own single testimony; but Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and most of -the other gentlemen, have had ocular demonstration of its truth, and -know that I mention them upon the occasion. - -It is very wonderful that these people, who are remarkably fond of -society, and particularly that of their women, should exclude its -pleasures from the table, where among all other nations, whether civil -or savage, they have been principally enjoyed. How a meal, which every -where else brings families and friends together, came to separate them -here, we often enquired, but could never learn. They eat alone, they -said, because it was right; but why it was right to eat alone they never -attempted to tell us: such, however, was the force of habit, that they -expressed the strongest dislike, and even disgust, at our eating in -society, especially with our women, and of the same victuals. At first, -we thought this strange singularity arose from some superstitious -opinion; but they constantly affirmed the contrary. We observed also -some caprices in the custom, for which we could as little account as for -the custom itself. We could never prevail with any of the women to -partake of the victuals at our table when we were dining in company; yet -they would go, five or six together, into the servants’ apartments, and -there eat very heartily of whatever they could find, of which I have -before given a particular instance; nor were they in the least -disconcerted if we came in while they were doing it. When any of us have -been alone with a woman, she has sometimes eaten in our company; but -then she has expressed the greatest unwillingness that it should be -known, and always extorted the strongest promises of secrecy. - -Among themselves, even two brothers and two sisters have each their -separate baskets, with provision and the apparatus of their meal. When -they first visited us at our tents, each brought his basket with him; -and when we sat down to table, they would go out, sit down upon the -ground, at two or three yards’ distance from each other, and turning -their faces different ways, take their repast without interchanging a -single word. - -The women not only abstain from eating with the men, and of the same -victuals, but even have their victuals separately prepared by boys kept -for that purpose, who deposit it in a separate shed, and attend them -with it at their meals. - -But though they would not eat with us or with each other, they have -often asked us to eat with them, when we have visited those with whom we -were particularly acquainted at their houses; and we have often upon -such occasions eaten out of the same basket, and drunk out of the same -cup. The elder women, however, always appeared to be offended at this -liberty; and if we happened to touch their victuals, or even the basket -that contained it, would throw it away. - -After meals, and in the heat of the day, the middle-aged people of the -better sort generally sleep: they are indeed extremely indolent; and -sleeping and eating is almost all that they do. Those that are older are -less drowsy, and the boys and girls are kept awake by the natural -activity and sprightliness of their age. - -Their amusements have occasionally been mentioned in my account of the -incidents that happened during our residence in this island, -particularly music, dancing, wrestling, and shooting with the bow; they -also sometimes vie with each other in throwing a lance. As shooting is -not at a mark, but for distance; throwing the lance is not for distance, -but at a mark: the weapon is about nine feet long, the mark is the bole -of a plantain, and the distance about twenty yards. - -Their only musical instruments are flutes and drums; the flutes are made -of a hollow bamboo about a foot long, and, as has been observed before, -have only two stops, and consequently but four notes, out of which they -seem hitherto to have formed but one tune: to these stops they apply the -fore-finger of the left hand and the middle finger of the right. - -The drum is made of a hollow block of wood, of a cylindrical form, solid -at one end, and covered at the other with shark’s skin: these they beat -not with sticks, but their hands; and they know how to tune two drums of -different notes into concord. They have also an expedient to bring the -flutes that play together into unison, which is to roll up a leaf so as -to slip over the end of the shortest, like our sliding tubes for -telescopes, which they move up or down till the purpose is answered, of -which they seem to judge by their ear with great nicety. - -To these instruments they sing; and, as I have observed before, their -songs are often extempore: they call every two verses or couplet a song, -_Pehay_: they are generally, though not always, in rhime; and when -pronounced by the natives, we could discover that they were metre. Mr. -Banks took great pains to write down some of them which were made upon -our arrival, as nearly as he could express their sounds by combinations -of our letters; but when we read them, not having their accent, we could -scarcely make them either metre or rhime. The reader will easily -perceive that they are of very different structure. - - Tede pahai de parow-a - Ha maru no mina. - - E pahah Tayo malama tai ya - No Tabane tonatou whannomi ya. - - E Turai eattu terara patee whennua toai - Ino o maio Pretane to whennuaia no Tute. - -Of these verses our knowledge of the language is too imperfect to -attempt a translation. They frequently amuse themselves by singing such -couplets as these when they are alone, or with their families, -especially after it is dark; for though they need no fires, they are not -without the comfort of artificial light between sunset and bedtime. -Their candles are made of the kernels of a kind of oily nut, which they -stick one over another upon a skewer that is thrust through the middle -of them; the upper one being lighted, burns down to the second, at the -same time consuming that part of the skewer which goes through it; the -second taking fire burns in the same manner down to the third, and so of -the rest: some of these candles will burn a considerable time, and they -give a very tolerable light. They do not often sit up above an hour -after it is dark; but when they have strangers who sleep in the house, -they generally keep a light burning all night, possibly as a check upon -such of the women as they wish not to honour them with their favours. - -Of their itinerary concerts I need add nothing to what has been said -already; especially as I shall have occasion more particularly to -mention them when I relate our adventures upon another island. - -In other countries, the girls and unmarried women are supposed to be -wholly ignorant of what others upon some occasions may appear to know; -and their conduct and conversation are consequently restrained within -narrower bounds, and kept at a more remote distance from whatever -relates to a connection with the other sex; but here it is just -contrary. Among other diversions, there is a dance, called _Timorodee_, -which is performed by young girls, whenever eight or ten of them can be -collected together, consisting of motions and gestures beyond -imagination wanton, in the practice of which they are brought up from -their earliest childhood, accompanied by words, which, if it were -possible, would more explicitly convey the same ideas. In these dances -they keep time with an exactness which is scarcely excelled by the best -performers upon the stages of Europe. But the practice which is allowed -to the virgin is prohibited to the woman from the moment that she has -put these hopeful lessons in practice, and realized the symbols of the -dance. - -It cannot be supposed that, among these people, chastity is held in much -estimation. It might be expected that sisters and daughters would be -offered to strangers, either as a courtesy, or for reward; and that -breaches of conjugal fidelity, even in the wife, should not be otherwise -punished than by a few hard words, or perhaps a slight beating, as -indeed is the case; but there is a scale in dissolute sensuality, which -these people have ascended, wholly unknown to every other nation whose -manners have been recorded from the beginning of the world to the -present hour, and which no imagination could possibly conceive. - -A very considerable number of the principal people of Otaheite, of both -sexes, have formed themselves into a society, in which every woman is -common to every man; thus securing a perpetual variety as often as their -inclination prompts them to seek it, which is so frequent, that the same -man and woman seldom cohabit together more than two or three days. - -These societies are distinguished by the name of _Arreoy_; and the -members have meetings, at which no other is present, where the men amuse -themselves by wrestling, and the women, notwithstanding their occasional -connection with different men, dance the Timorodee in all its latitude, -as an incitement to desires which it is said are frequently gratified -upon the spot. This, however, is comparatively nothing. If any of the -women happen to be with child, which in this manner of life happens less -frequently than if they were to cohabit only with one man, the poor -infant is smothered the moment it is born, that it may be no incumbrance -to the father, nor interrupt the mother in the pleasures of her -diabolical prostitution. It sometimes indeed happens, that the passion -which prompts a woman to enter into this society is surmounted when she -becomes a mother, by that instinctive affection which nature has given -to all creatures for the preservation of their offspring; but even in -this case she is not permitted to spare the life of her infant, except -she can find a man who will patronise it as his child: if this can be -done, the murder is prevented; but both the man and woman, being deemed -by this act to have appropriated each other, are ejected from the -community, and forfeit all claim to the privileges and pleasures of the -Arreoy for the future; the woman from that time being distinguished by -the term _Whannownow_, “bearer of children,” which is here a term of -reproach; though none can be more honourable in the estimation of wisdom -and humanity, of right reason, and every passion that distinguishes the -man from the brute. - -It is not fit that a practice so horrid and so strange should be imputed -to human beings upon slight evidence, but I have such as abundantly -justifies me in the account I have given. The people themselves are so -far from concealing their connection with such a society as a disgrace, -that they boast of it as a privilege; and both myself and Mr. Banks, -when particular persons have been pointed out to us as members of the -Arreoy, have questioned them about it, and received the account that has -been here given from their own lips. They have acknowledged that they -had long been of this accursed society, that they belonged to it at that -time, and that several of their children had been put to death. - -But I must not conclude my account of the domestic life of these people -without mentioning their personal cleanliness. If that which lessens the -good of life and increases the evil is vice, surely cleanliness is a -virtue: the want of it tends to destroy both beauty and health, and -mingles disgust with our best pleasures. The natives of Otaheite, both -men and women, constantly wash their whole bodies in running water three -times every day; once as soon as they rise in the morning, once at noon, -and again before they sleep at night, whether the sea or river is near -them or at a distance. I have already observed, that they wash not only -the mouth but the hands at their meals, almost between every morsel; and -their clothes, as well as their persons, are kept without spot or stain; -so that in a large company of these people nothing is suffered but heat, -which, perhaps, is more than can be said of the politest assembly in -Europe. - - - - - CHAP. XVIII. - - OF THE MANUFACTURES, BOATS, AND NAVIGATION OF OTAHEITE. - - -IF necessity is the mother of invention, it cannot be supposed to have -been much exerted where the liberality of Nature has rendered the -diligence of Art almost superfluous; yet there are many instances both -of ingenuity and labour among these people, which, considering the want -of metal for tools, do honour to both. - -Their principal manufacture is their cloth, in the making and dying of -which I think there are some particulars which may instruct even the -artificers of Great Britain, and for that reason my description will be -more minute. - -Their cloth is of three kinds; and it is made of the bark of three -different trees, the Chinese paper mulberry, the bread-fruit tree, and -the tree which resembles the wild fig-tree of the West Indies. - -The finest and whitest is made of the paper mulberry, _Aouta_; this is -worn chiefly by the principal people, and when it is dyed red takes a -better colour. A second sort, inferior in whiteness and softness, is -made of the bread-fruit tree, _Ooroo_, and worn chiefly by the inferior -people; and a third of the tree that resembles the fig, which is coarse -and harsh, and of the colour of the darkest brown paper; this, though it -is less pleasing both to the eye and the touch, is the most valuable, -because it resists water, which the other two sorts will not. Of this, -which is the most rare as well as the most useful, the greater part is -perfumed, and worn by the Chiefs as a morning dress. - -All these trees are propagated with great care, particularly the -mulberry, which covers the largest part of the cultivated land, and is -not fit for use after two or three years growth, when it is about six or -eight feet high, and somewhat thicker than a man’s thumb; its excellence -is to be thin, straight, tall, and without branches: the lower leaves, -therefore, are carefully plucked off, with their germs, as often as -there is any appearance of their producing a branch. - -But though the cloth made of these three trees is different, it is all -manufactured in the same manner; I shall, therefore, describe the -process only in the fine sort, that is made of the mulberry. When the -trees are of a proper size, they are drawn up, and stripped of their -branches, after which the roots and tops are cut off; the bark of these -rods being then slit up longitudinally is easily drawn off, and, when a -proper quantity has been procured, it is carried down to some running -water, in which it is deposited to soak, and secured from floating away -by heavy stones: when it is supposed to be sufficiently softened, the -women servants go down to the brook, and stripping themselves, sit down -in the water, to separate the inner bark from the green part on the -outside; to do this they place the under side upon a flat smooth board, -and with the shell, which our dealers call tyger’s tongue, _tellina -gargadia_, scrape it very carefully, dipping it continually in the water -till nothing remains but the fine fibres of the inner coat. Being thus -prepared in the afternoon, they are spread out upon plantain leaves in -the evening; and in this part of the work there appears to be some -difficulty, as the mistress of the family always superintends the doing -of it: they are placed in lengths of about eleven or twelve yards, one -by the side of another, till they are about a foot broad, and two or -three layers are also laid one upon the other: care is taken that the -cloth shall be in all parts of an equal thickness, so that if the bark -happens to be thinner in any particular part of one layer than the rest, -a piece that is somewhat thicker is picked out to be laid over it in the -next. In this state it remains till the morning, when great part of the -water which it contained when it was laid out, is either drained off or -evaporated, and the several fibres adhere together, so as that the whole -maybe raised from the ground in one piece. - -It is then taken away, and laid upon the smooth side of a long piece of -wood, prepared for the purpose, and beaten by the women servants, with -instruments about a foot long and three inches thick, made of a hard -wood which they call _Etoa_. The shape of this instrument is not unlike -a square razor strop, only that the handle is longer, and each of its -four sides or faces is marked, lengthways, with small grooves, or -furrows, of different degrees of fineness; those on one side being of a -width and depth sufficient to receive a small packthread, and the others -finer in a regular gradation, so that the last are not more than equal -to sewing silk. - -They beat it first with the coarsest side of this mallet, keeping time -like our smiths; it spreads very fast under the strokes, chiefly however -in the breadth, and the grooves in the mallet mark it with the -appearance of threads; it is successively beaten with the other sides, -last with the finest, and is then fit for use. Sometimes, however, it is -made still thinner, by beating it with the finest side of the mallet, -after it has been several times doubled: it is then called _Hoboo_, and -is almost as thin as a muslin; it becomes very white by being bleached -in the air, but is made still whiter and softer by being washed and -beaten again after it has been worn. - -Of this cloth there are several sorts, of different degrees of fineness, -in proportion as it is more or less beaten without being doubled: the -other cloth also differs in proportion as it is beaten; but they differ -from each other in consequence of the different materials of which they -are made. The bark of the bread-fruit is not taken till the trees are -considerably longer and thicker than those of the fig, the process -afterwards is the same. - -When cloth is to be washed after it has been worn, it is taken down to -the brook, and left to soak, being kept fast to the bottom, as at first, -by a stone; it is then gently wrung or squeezed; and sometimes several -pieces of it are laid one upon another, and beaten together with the -coarsest side of the mallet, and they are then equal in thickness to -broad-cloth, and much more soft and agreeable to the touch, after they -have been a little while in use, though when they come immediately from -the mallet, they feel as if they had been starched. This cloth sometimes -breaks in the beating, but is easily repaired by pasting on a patch with -a gluten that is prepared from the root of the _Pea_, which is done so -nicely that it cannot be discovered. The women also employ themselves in -removing blemishes of every kind, as our ladies do in needle-work or -knotting; sometimes when their work is intended to be very fine, they -will paste an entire covering of hoboo over the whole. The principal -excellencies of this cloth are its coolness and softness; and its -imperfections, its being pervious to water like paper, and almost as -easily torn. - -The colours with which they dye this cloth are principally red and -yellow. The red is exceedingly beautiful, and I may venture to say a -brighter and more delicate colour than any we have in Europe; that which -approaches nearest is our full scarlet, and the best imitation which Mr. -Banks’s natural history painter could produce, was by a mixture of -vermillion and carmine. The yellow is also a bright color, but we have -many as good. - -The red colour is produced by the mixture of the juices of two -vegetables, neither of which separately has the least tendency to that -hue. One is a species of fig called here _Matte_, and the other the -_Cordia Sebestina_, or _Etou_; of the fig the fruit is used, and of the -_Cordia_ the leaves. - -The fruit of the fig is about as big as a rounceval pea, or very small -gooseberry; and each of them, upon breaking off the stalk very close, -produces one drop of a milky liquor, resembling the juice of our figs, -of which the tree is indeed a species. This liquor the women collect -into a small quantity of cocoa-nut water: to prepare a gill of cocoa-nut -water will require between three and four quarts of these little figs. -When a sufficient quantity is prepared, the leaves of the Etou are well -wetted in it, and then laid upon a plantain leaf, where they are turned -about till they become more and more flaccid, and then they are gently -squeezed, gradually increasing the pressure, but so as not to break -them; as the flaccidity increases, and they become spungy, they are -supplied with more of the liquor; in about five minutes the colour -begins to appear upon the veins of the leaves, and in about ten or a -little more, they are perfectly saturated with it: they are then -squeezed, with as much force as can be applied, and the liquor strained -at the same time that it is expressed. - -For this purpose, the boys prepare a large quantity of the Moo, by -drawing it between their teeth, or two little sticks, till it is freed -from the green bark and the branny substance that lies under it, and a -thin web of the fibres only remains; in this the leaves of the Etou are -inveloped, and through these the juice which they contain is strained as -it is forced out. As the leaves are not succulent, little more juice is -pressed out of them than they have imbibed: when they have been once -emptied, they are filled again, and again pressed, till the quality -which tinctures the liquor as it passes through them is exhausted, they -are then thrown away; but the Moo, being deeply stained with the colour, -is preserved, as a brush to lay the dye upon the cloth. - -The expressed liquor is always received into small cups made of the -plantain leaf, whether from a notion that it has any quality favourable -to the colour, or from the facility with which it is procured, and the -convenience of small vessels to distribute it among the artificers, I do -not know. - -Of the thin cloth they seldom dye more than the edges, but the thick -cloth is coloured through the whole surface; the liquor is indeed used -rather as a pigment than a dye, for a coat of it is laid upon one side -only, with the fibres of the Moo; and though I have seen of the thin -cloth that has appeared to have been soaked in the liquor, the colour -has not had the same richness and lustre, as when it has been applied in -the other manner. - -Though the leaf of the Etou is generally used in this process, and -probably produces the finest colour, yet the juice of the figs will -produce a red by a mixture with the species of Tournefortia, which they -call _Taheinoo_, the _Pohuc_, the _Eurhe_, or _Convolvulus -Brasiliensis_, and a species of Solanum called _Ebooa_; from the use of -these different plants, or from different proportions of the materials, -many varieties are observable in the colours of their cloth, some of -which are conspicuously superior to others. - -The beauty, however, of the best is not permanent; but it is probable -that some method might be found to fix it, if proper experiments were -made, and perhaps to search for latent qualities, which may be brought -out by the mixture of one vegetable juice with another, would not be an -unprofitable employment: our present most valuable dyes afford -sufficient encouragement to the attempt; for by the mere inspection of -indigo, woad, dyer’s weed, and most of the leaves which are used for the -like purposes, the colours which they yield could never be discovered. -Of this Indian red I shall only add, that the women who have been -employed in preparing or using it, carefully preserve the colour upon -their fingers and nails, where it appears in its utmost beauty, as a -great ornament. - -The yellow is made of the bark of the root of the _Morinda citrifolia_, -called _Nono_, by scraping and infusing it in water; after standing some -time, the water is strained and used as a dye, the cloth being dipped -into it. The Morinda, of which this is a species, seems to be a good -subject for examination with a view to dyeing. Brown, in his history of -Jamaica, mentions three species of it, which he says are used to dye -brown; and Rumphius says of the _Bancuda Angustifolia_, which is nearly -allied to our Nono, that it is used by the inhabitants of the East -Indian islands, as a fixing drug for red colours, with which it -particularly agrees. - -The inhabitants of this island also dye yellow with the fruit of the -Tamanu; but how the colour is extracted, we had no opportunity to -discover. They have also a preparation with which they dye brown and -black; but these colours are so indifferent, that the method of -preparing them did not excite our curiosity. - -Another considerable manufacture is matting of various kinds; some of -which is finer, and better, in every respect, than any we have in -Europe: the coarser sort serves them to sleep upon, and the finer to -wear in wet weather. With the fine, of which there are also two sorts, -much pains is taken, especially with that made of the bark of the -Poerou, the _Hibiscus tiliaceus_ of Linnæus, some of which is as fine as -a coarse cloth; the other sort, which is still more beautiful, they call -_Vanne_; it is white, glossy, and shining, and is made of the leaves of -their _Wharrou_, a species of the _Pandanus_, of which we had no -opportunity to see either the flowers or fruit: they have other matts, -or as they call them _Moeas_, to sit or to sleep upon, which are formed -of a great variety of rushes and grass, and which they make, as they do -every thing else that is plaited, with amazing facility and dispatch. - -They are also very dexterous in making basket and wicker work; their -baskets are of a thousand different patterns, many of them exceedingly -neat; and the making them is an art that every one practises, both men -and women: they make occasional baskets and panniers of the cocoa-nut -leaf in a few minutes, and the women who visited us early in a morning -used to send, as soon as the sun was high, for a few of the leaves, of -which they made little bonnets to shade their faces, at so small an -expence of time and trouble, that, when the sun was again low in the -evening, they used to throw them away. These bonnets, however, did not -cover the head, but consisted only of a band that went round it, and a -shade that projected from the forehead. - -Of the bark of the Poerou, they make ropes and lines, from the thickness -of an inch to the size of a small packthread: with these they make nets -for fishing: of the fibres of the cocoa-nut they make thread, for -fastening together the several parts of their canoes, and belts, either -round or flat, twisted or plaited; and of the bark of the _Erowa_, a -kind of nettle which grows in the mountains, and is therefore rather -scarce, they make the best fishing lines in the world: with these they -hold the strongest and most active fish, such as Bonetas and Albicores, -which would snap our strongest silk lines in a minute, though they are -twice as thick. - -They make also a kind of seine, of a coarse broad grass, the blades of -which are like flags; these they twist and tie together in a loose -manner, till the net, which is about as wide as a large sack, is from -sixty to eighty fathom long: this they haul in shoal smooth water, and -its own weight keeps it so close to the ground that scarcely a single -fish can escape. - -In every expedient, indeed, for taking fish, they are exceedingly -ingenious; they make harpoons of cane, and point them with hard wood, -which in their hands strike fish more effectually, than those which are -headed with iron can do in ours, setting aside the advantage of ours -being fastened to a line, so that the fish is secured if the hook takes -place, though it does not mortally wound him. - -Of fish-hooks they have two sorts, admirably adapted in their -construction as well to the purpose they are to answer, as to the -materials of which they are made. One of these, which they call _Wittee -Wittee_, is used for towing. The shank is made of mother-of-pearl, the -most glossy that can be got: the inside, which is naturally the -brightest, is put behind. To these hooks a tuft of white dog’s or hog’s -hair is fixed, so as somewhat to resemble the tail of a fish; these -implements, therefore, are both hook and bait, and are used with a rod -of bamboo, and line of _Erowa_. The fisher, to secure his success, -watches the flight of the birds which constantly attend the Bonetas when -they swim in shoals, by which he directs his canoe, and when he has the -advantage of these guides, he seldom returns without a prize. - -The other kind of hook is also made of mother-of-pearl, or some other -hard shell: they cannot make them bearded like our hooks; but to effect -the same purpose, they make the point turn inwards. These are made of -all sizes, and used to catch various kinds of fish with great success. -The manner of making them is very simple, and every fisherman is his own -artificer: the shell is first cut into square pieces, by the edge of -another shell, and wrought into a form corresponding with the outline of -the hook by pieces of coral, which are sufficiently rough to perform the -office of a file; a hole is then bored in the middle; the drill being no -other than the first stone they pick up that has a sharp corner: this -they fix into the end of a piece of bamboo, and turn it between the -hands like a chocolate-mill; when the shell is perforated, and the hole -sufficiently wide, a small file of coral is introduced, by the -application of which the hook is in a short time completed, few costing -the artificer more time than a quarter of an hour. - -Of their masonry, carving, and architecture, the reader has already -formed some idea from the account that has been given of the Morais, or -repositories of the dead: the other most important article of building -and carving is their boats; and perhaps, to fabricate one of their -principal vessels with their tools is as great a work, as to build a -British man of war with ours. - -They have an adze of stone; a chissel, or gouge of bone, generally that -of a man’s arm between the wrist and elbow; a rasp of coral; and the -skin of a sting-ray, with coral sand, as a file or polisher. - -This is a complete catalogue of their tools, and with these they build -houses, construct canoes, hew stone, and fell, cleave, carve, and polish -timber. - -The stone which makes the blade of their adzes is a kind of Basaltes, of -a blackish or grey colour, not very hard, but of considerable toughness: -they are formed of different sizes; some, that are intended for felling, -weigh from six to eight pounds; others, that are used for carving, not -more than so many ounces; but it is necessary to sharpen both almost -every minute; for which purpose, a stone and a cocoa-nut shell full of -water are always at hand. - -Their greatest exploit, to which these tools are less equal than to any -other, is felling a tree: this requires many hands, and the constant -labour of several days. When it is down, they split it, with the grain, -into planks from three to four inches thick, the whole length and -breadth of the tree, many of which are eight feet in the girt, and forty -to the branches, and nearly of the same thickness throughout. The tree -generally used is, in their language, called _Avie_, the stem of which -is tall and straight; though some of the smaller boats are made of the -bread-fruit tree, which is a light spongy wood, and easily wrought. They -smooth the plank very expeditiously and dexterously with their adzes, -and can take off a thin coat from a whole plank without missing a -stroke. As they have not the art of warping a plank, every part of the -canoe, whether hollow or flat, is shaped by hand. - -The canoes, or boats, which are used by the inhabitants of this and the -neighbouring islands, may be divided into two general classes; one of -which they call _Ivahahs_, the other _Pahies_. - -The Ivahah is used for short excursions to sea, and is wall-sided and -flat-bottomed; the Pahie for longer voyages, and is bow-sided and -sharp-bottomed. The Ivahas are all of the same figure, but of different -sizes, and used for different purposes: their length is from seventy-two -feet to ten, but the breadth is by no means in proportion; for those of -ten feet are about a foot wide, and those of more than seventy are -scarcely two. There is the fighting Ivahah, the fishing Ivahah, and the -travelling Ivahah; for some of these go from one island to another. The -fighting Ivahah is by far the longest, and the head and stern are -considerably raised above the body, in a semicircular form; particularly -the stern, which is sometimes seventeen or eighteen feet high, though -the boat itself is scarcely three. These never go to sea single; but are -fastened together, side by side, at the distance of about three feet, by -strong poles of wood, which are laid across them and lashed to the -gunwales. Upon these, in the forepart, a stage or platform is raised, -about ten or twelve feet long, and somewhat wider than the boats, which -is supported by pillars about six feet high: upon this stage stand the -fighting men, whose missile weapons are slings and spears; for, among -other singularities in the manners of these people, their bows and -arrows are used only for diversion, as we throw quoits: below these -stages sit the rowers, who receive from them those that are wounded, and -furnish fresh men to ascend in their room. Some of these have a platform -of bamboos or other light wood, through their whole length, and -considerably broader, by means of which they will carry a great number -of men; but we saw only one fitted in this manner. - -The fishing Ivahahs vary in length from about forty feet to the smallest -size, which is about ten; all that are of the length of twenty-five feet -and upwards, of whatever sort, occasionally carry sail. The travelling -Ivahah is always double, and furnished with a small neat house, about -five or six feet broad, and six or seven feet long, which is fastened -upon the fore-part for the convenience of the principal people, who sit -in them by day, and sleep in them at night. The fishing Ivahahs are -sometimes joined together, and have a house on board; but this is not -common. - -Those which are shorter than five and twenty feet, seldom or never carry -sail; and, though the stern rises about four or five feet, have a flat -head, and a board that projects forward about four feet. - -The Pahie is also of different sizes, from sixty to thirty feet long; -but, like the Ivahah, is very narrow. One that I measured was fifty-one -feet long, and only one foot and a half wide at the top. In the widest -part, it was about three feet; and this is the general proportion. It -does not, however, widen by a gradual swell; but the sides being -straight and parallel, for a little way below the gunwale, it swells -abruptly, and draws to a ridge at the bottom; so that a transverse -section of it has somewhat the appearance of the mark upon cards called -a Spade, the whole being much wider in proportion to its length. These, -like the largest Ivahahs, are used for fighting; but principally for -long voyages. The fighting Pahie, which is the largest, is fitted with -the stage or platform, which is proportionably larger than those of the -Ivahah, as their form enables them to sustain a much greater weight. -Those that are used for sailing are generally double; and the middle -size are said to be the best sea-boats. They are sometimes out a month -together, going from island to island; and sometimes, as we were -credibly informed, they are a fortnight or twenty days at sea, and could -keep it longer if they had more stowage for provisions, and -conveniencies to hold fresh water. - -When any of these boats carry sail single, they make use of a log of -wood, which is fastened to the end of two poles that lie cross the -vessel, and project from six to ten feet, according to the size of the -vessel, beyond its side, somewhat like what is used by the flying Proa -of the Ladrone Islands, and called in the account of Lord Anson’s -Voyage, an Outrigger. To this outrigger the shrouds are fastened, and it -is essentially necessary in trimming the boat when it blows fresh. - -Some of them have one mast, and some two; they are made of a single -stick, and when the length of the canoe is thirty feet, that of the mast -is somewhat less than five-and-twenty; it is fixed to a frame that is -above the canoe, and receives a sail of matting about one-third longer -than itself: the sail is pointed at the top, square at the bottom, and -curved at the side; somewhat resembling what we call a shoulder of -mutton sail, and used for boats belonging to men of war: it is placed in -a frame of wood, which surrounds it on every side, and has no -contrivance either for reefing or furling; so that, if either should -become necessary, it must be cut away, which, however, in these equal -climates, can seldom happen. At the top of the mast are fastened -ornaments of feathers, which are placed inclining obliquely forwards; -the shape and position of which will be conceived at once from the -figure, in one of the cuts. - -The oars or paddles that are used with these boats, have a long handle -and a flat blade, not unlike a baker’s peel. Of these every person in -the boat has one, except those that sit under the awning; and they push -her forward with them at a good rate. These boats, however, admit so -much water at the seams, that one person at least is continually -employed in throwing it out. The only thing in which they excel is -landing, and putting off from the shore in a surf: by their great length -and high sterns they land dry, when our boats could scarcely land at -all; and have the same advantages in putting off by the height of the -head. - -The Ivahahs are the only boats that are used by the inhabitants of -Otaheite; but we saw several Pahies that came from other islands. Of one -of these I shall give the exact dimensions from a careful admeasurement, -and then particularly describe the manner in which they are built. - - Feet. Inches. - - Extreme length from stem to stern, not reckoning the 51 0 - bending up of either - - Breadth in the clear of the top forward 1 2 - - Breadth in the midships 1 6 - - Breadth aft 1 3 - - In the bilge forward 2 8 - - In the midships 2 11 - - Aft 2 9 - - Depth in the midships 3 4 - - Height from the ground on which she stood 3 6 - - Height of her head from the ground, without the figure 4 4 - - Height of the figure 0 11 - - Height of the stern from the ground 8 9 - - Height of the figure 2 0 - -[Illustration: Drawing of Vessel] - -To illustrate my description of the manner in which these vessels are -built, it will be necessary to refer to the figure; in which _a a_ is -the first seam, _b b_ the second, and _c c_ the third. - -The first stage or keel, under _a a_, is made of a tree hollowed out -like a trough; for which the longest trees are chosen that can be got, -so that there are never more than three in the whole length: the next -stage, under _b b_, is formed of straight plank, about four feet long, -fifteen inches broad, and two inches thick: the third stage, under _c -c_, is, like the bottom, made of trunks, hollowed into its bilging form; -the last is also cut out of trunks, so that the moulding is of one piece -with the upright. To form these parts separately, without saw, plane, -chissel, or any other iron tool, may well be thought no easy task; but -the great difficulty is to join them together. - -When all the parts are prepared, the keel is laid upon blocks, and the -planks being supported by stanchions, are sewed or clamped together with -strong thongs of plaiting, which are passed several times through holes -that are bored with a gouge or auger of bone, that has been described -already; and the nicety with which this is done, may be inferred from -their being sufficiently water-tight for use without caulking. As the -platting soon rots in the water, it is renewed at least once a-year; in -order to which, the vessel is taken entirely to pieces. The head and -stern are rude with respect to the design; but very neatly finished, and -polished to the highest degree. - -These Pahies are kept with great care in a kind of house built on -purpose for their reception; the houses are formed of poles set upright -in the ground, the tops of which are drawn towards each other, and -fastened together with their strongest cord, so as to form a kind of -Gothic arch, which is completely thatched quite to the ground, being -open only at the ends; they are sometimes fifty or sixty paces long. - -As connected with the navigation of these people, I shall mention their -wonderful sagacity in foretelling the weather, at least the quarter from -which the wind shall blow at a future time; they have several ways of -doing this, of which however I know but one. They say, that the -Milky-way is always curved laterally; but sometimes in one direction, -and sometimes in another: and that this curvature is the effect of its -being already acted upon by the wind, and its hollow part therefore -towards it; so that, if the same curvature continues a night, a -corresponding wind certainly blows the next day. Of their rules, I shall -not pretend to judge; but I know that, by whatever means, they can -predict the weather, at least the wind, with much greater certainty than -we can. - -In their longer voyages, they steer by the sun in the day, and in the -night by the stars; all of which they distinguish separately by names, -and know in what part of the heavens they will appear in any of the -months during which they are visible in their horizon; they also know -the time of their annual appearing and disappearing with more precision -than will easily be believed by an European astronomer. - - - - - CHAP. XIX. - - OF THE DIVISION OF TIME IN OTAHEITE; NUMERATION, COMPUTATION OF - DISTANCE, LANGUAGE, DISEASES, DISPOSAL OF THE DEAD, RELIGION, WAR, - WEAPONS, AND GOVERNMENT; WITH SOME GENERAL OBSERVATIONS FOR THE USE OF - FUTURE NAVIGATORS. - - -WE were not able to acquire a perfect idea of their method of dividing -time; but observed, that in speaking of it, either past or to come, they -never used any term but _Malama_, which signifies Moon. Of these moons -they count thirteen, and then begin again; which is a demonstration that -they have a notion of the solar year: but how they compute their months -so that thirteen of them shall be commensurate with the year, we could -not discover; for they say that each month has twenty-nine days, -including one in which the moon is not visible. They have names for them -separately, and have frequently told us the fruits that would be in -season, and the weather that would prevail, in each of them; and they -have indeed a name for them collectively, though they use it only when -they speak of the mysteries of their religion. - -Every day is subdivided into twelve parts, each of two hours, of which -six belong to the day, and six to the night. At these divisions they -guess pretty nearly by the height of the sun while he is above the -horizon; but there are few of them that can guess at them, when he is -below it, by the stars. - -In numeration they proceed from one to ten, the number of fingers on -both hands; and though they have for each number a different name, they -generally take hold of their fingers one by one, shifting from one hand -to the other till they come to the number they want to express. And in -other instances, we observed that, when they were conversing with each -other, they joined signs to their words, which were so expressive that a -stranger might easily apprehend their meaning. - -In counting from ten they repeat the name of that number, and add the -word _more_; ten, and one more, is eleven; ten, and two more, twelve: -and so of the rest, as we say one and twenty, two and twenty. When they -come to ten and ten more, they have a new denomination, as we say a -score; and by these scores they count till they get ten of them, when -they have a denomination for two hundred; and we never could discover -that they had any denomination to express a greater number: neither, -indeed, do they seem to want any; for ten of these amount to two -thousand, a greater number than they can ever apply. - -In measuring distance they are much more deficient than in computing -numbers, having but one term, which answers to fathom; when they speak -of distances from place to place, they express it, like the Asiatics, by -the time that is required to pass it. - -Their language is soft and melodious; it abounds with vowels, and we -easily learnt to pronounce it: but found it exceedingly difficult to -teach them to pronounce a single word of ours; probably not only from -its abounding in consonants, but from some peculiarity in its structure; -for Spanish and Italian words, if ending in a vowel, they pronounced -with great facility. - -Whether it is copious, we were not sufficiently acquainted with it to -know; but it is certainly very imperfect, for it is almost totally -without inflexion, both of nouns and verbs. Few of the nouns have more -than one case, and few of the verbs more than one tense; yet we found no -great difficulty in making ourselves mutually understood, however -strange it may appear in speculation. - -They have, however, certain _affixa_, which, though but few in number, -are very useful to them, and puzzled us extremely. One asks another, -_Harre hea?_ “Where are you going?” The other answers, _Ivahinera_, “To -my wives;” upon which the first, repeating the answer interrogatively, -“To your wives?” is answered, _Ivahinereira_; “Yes, I am going to my -wives.” Here the suffixa _era_ and _eira_ save several words to both -parties. - -I have inserted a few of their words, from which, perhaps, some idea may -be formed of the language. - - Pupo, _the head_. - Ahewh, _the nose_. - Roourou, _the hair_. - Outou, _the mouth_. - Niheo, _the teeth_. - Arrero, _the tongue_. - Meu-eumi, _the beard_. - Tiarraboa, _the throat_. - Tuamo, _the shoulders_. - Tuah, _the back_. - Oama, _the breast_. - Eu, _the nipples_. - Oboo, _the belly_. - Rema, _the arm_. - Vaee, _wild plantains_. - Oporema, _the hand_. - Manneow, _the fingers_. - Mieu, _the nails_. - Touhe, _the buttocks_. - Hoouhah, _the thighs_. - Avia, _the legs_. - Tapoa, _the feet_. - Booa, _a hog_. - Moa, _a fowl_. - Euree, _a dog_. - Eure-eure, _iron_. - Ooroo, _bread-fruit_. - Hearee, _cocoa-nuts_. - Mia, _bananas_. - Poe, _beads_. - Poe matawewwe, _pearl_. - Ahou, _a garment_. - Avee, _a fruit like apples_. - Ahee, _another like chesnuts_. - Ewharre, _a house_. - Whennua, _a high island_. - Motu, _a low island_. - Toto, _blood_. - Aeve, _bone_. - Aeo, _flesh_. - Mae, _fat_. - Tuea, _lean_. - Huru-huru, _hair_. - Eraow, _a tree_. - Ama, _a branch_. - Tiale, _a flower_. - Huero _fruit_. - Etummoo, _the stem_. - Aaa, _the root_. - Eiherre, _herbaceous plants_. - Ooopa, _a pigeon_. - Avigne, _a paroquet_. - A-a, _another species_. - Mannu, _a bird_. - Mora _a duck_. - Mattow, _a fish-hook_. - Toura, _a rope_. - Mow, _a shark_. - Mahi-mahi, _a dolphin_. - Mattera, _a fishing-rod_. - Eupea, _a net_. - Mahanna, _the sun_. - Malama, _the moon_. - Whettu, _a star_. - Whettu-euphe, _a comet_. - Erai, _the sky_. - Eatta, _a cloud_. - Miti, _good_. - Eno, _bad_. - A, _yes_. - Ima, _no_. - Paree, _ugly_. - Paroree, _hungry_. - Pia, _full_. - Timahah, _heavy_. - Mama, _light_. - Poto, _short_. - Roa, _tall_. - Nehenne, _sweet_. - Mala-mala, _bitter_. - Whanno, _to go far_. - Harre, _to go_. - Arrea, _to stay_. - Enoho, _to remain_. - Rohe rohe, _to be tired_. - Maa, _to eat_. - Inoo, _to drink_. - Ete, _to understand_. - Warrido, _to steal_. - Worridde, _to be angry_. - Teparahi, _to beat_. - -Among people whose food is so simple, and who in general are seldom -drunk, it is scarcely necessary to say, that there are but few diseases; -we saw no critical disease during our stay upon the island, and but few -instances of sickness, which were accidental fits of the colic. The -natives, however, are afflicted with the erysipelas, and cutaneous -eruptions of the scaly kind, very nearly approaching to a leprosy. Those -in whom this distemper was far advanced, lived in a state of seclusion -from all society, each in a small house built upon some unfrequented -spot, where they were supplied with provisions: but whether they had any -hope of relief, or languished out the remainder of their lives in -solitude and despair, we could not learn. We observed also a few who had -ulcers upon different parts of their bodies, some of which had a very -virulent appearance; yet they seemed not much to be regarded by those -who were afflicted with them, for they were left entirely without -application even to keep off the flies. - -Where intemperance produces no diseases, there will be no physicians by -profession; yet where there is sufferance, there will always be attempts -to relieve; and where the cause of the mischief and the remedy are alike -unknown, these will naturally be directed by superstition: thus it -happens, that in this country, and in all others which are not further -injured by luxury, or improved by knowledge, the management of the sick -falls to the lot of the priest. The method of cure that is practised by -the priests of Otaheite, consists chiefly of prayers and ceremonies. -When he visits his patient he repeats certain sentences, which appear to -be set forms contrived for the occasion, and at the same time plats the -leaves of the cocoa-nut into different figures very neatly; some of -these he fastens to the fingers and toes of the sick, and often leaves -behind him a few branches of the _thespecia populnea_, which they call -_E’midho_: these ceremonies are repeated till the patient recovers or -dies. If he recovers, they say the remedies cured him; if he dies, they -say the disease was incurable; in which perhaps they do not much differ -from the custom of other countries. - -If we had judged of their skill in surgery from the dreadful scars which -we sometimes saw, we should have supposed it to be much superior to the -art, not only of their physicians, but of ours. We saw one man whose -face was almost entirely destroyed, his nose, including the bone, was -perfectly flat, and one cheek and one eye were so beaten in, that the -hollow would almost receive a man’s fist, yet no ulcer remained; and our -companion, Tupia, had been pierced quite through his body by a spear, -headed with the bone of the sting-ray, the weapon having entered his -back, and come out just under his breast; but except in reducing -dislocations and fractures, the best surgeon can contribute very little -to the cure of a wound; the blood itself is the best vulnerary balsam, -and when the juices of the body are pure, and the patient is temperate, -nothing more is necessary as an aid to nature in the cure of the worst -wound, than the keeping it clean. - -Their commerce with the inhabitants of Europe has, however, already -entailed upon them that dreadful curse which avenged the inhumanities -committed by the Spaniards in America, the venereal disease. As it is -certain that no European vessel besides our own, except the Dolphin, and -the two that were under the command of Mons. Bougainville, ever visited -this island, it must have been brought either by one of them or by us. -That it was not brought by the Dolphin, Captain Wallis has demonstrated -in the account of her voyage, (Vol. I. p. 323, 324.), and nothing is -more certain than that when we arrived, it had made most dreadful -ravages in the island. One of our people contracted it within five days -after we went on shore, and by the enquiries among the natives, which -this occasioned, we learnt, when we came to understand a little of their -language, that it had been brought by the vessels which had been there -about fifteen months before us, and had lain on the east side of the -island. They distinguished it by a name of the same import with -_rottenness_, but of a more extensive signification, and described, in -the most pathetic terms, the sufferings of the first victims to its -rage, and told us that it caused the hair and the nails to fall off, and -the flesh to rot from the bones: that it spread a universal terror and -consternation among them, so that the sick were abandoned by their -nearest relations, lest the calamity should spread by contagion, and -left to perish alone in such misery as till then had never been known -among them. We had some reason, however, to hope that they had found out -a specific to cure it: during our stay upon the island we saw none in -whom it had made a great progress, and one who went from us infected, -returned after a short time in perfect health; and by this it appeared -either that the disease had cured itself, or that they were not -unacquainted with the virtues of simples, nor implicit dupes to the -superstitious follies of their priests. We endeavoured to learn the -medical qualities which they imputed to their plants, but our knowledge -of their language was too imperfect for us to succeed. If we could have -learnt their specific for the venereal disease, if such they have, it -would have been of great advantage to us, for when we left the island it -had been contracted by more than half the people on board the ship. - -It is impossible but that, in relating incidents, many particulars with -respect to the customs, opinions, and works of these people should be -anticipated; to avoid repetition, therefore, I shall only supply -deficiencies. Of the manner of disposing of their dead, much has been -said already. I must more explicitly observe, that there are two places -in which the dead are deposited; one a kind of shed, where the flesh is -suffered to putrify; the other an enclosure, with erections of stone, -where the bones are afterwards buried. The sheds are called TUPAPOW, and -the enclosures MORAI. The Morais are also places of worship. - -As soon as a native of Otaheite is known to be dead, the house is filled -with relations, who deplore their loss, some by loud lamentations, and -some by less clamorous, but more genuine expressions of grief. Those who -are in the nearest degree of kindred, and are really affected by the -event, are silent; the rest are one moment uttering passionate -exclamations in a chorus, and the next laughing and talking without the -least appearance of concern. In this manner the remainder of the day on -which they assemble is spent, and all the succeeding night. On the next -morning the body is shrouded in their cloth, and conveyed to the -sea-side upon a bier, which the bearers support upon their shoulders, -attended by the priest, who, having prayed over the body, repeats his -sentences during the procession. When it arrives at the water’s edge, it -is set down upon the beach; the priest renews his prayers, and taking up -some of the water in his hands, sprinkles it towards the body, but not -upon it. It is then carried back forty or fifty yards, and soon after -brought again to the beach, where the prayers and sprinkling are -repeated: it is thus removed backwards and forwards several times, and -while these ceremonies have been performing a house has been built, and -a small space of ground railed in. In the centre of this house, or -Tupapow, posts are set up to support the bier, which is at length -conveyed thither, and placed upon it, and here the body remains to -putrify till the flesh is wholly wasted from the bones. - -These houses of corruption are of a size proportioned to the rank of the -person whose body they are to contain; those allotted to the lower class -are just sufficient to cover the bier, and have no railing round them. -The largest we ever saw was eleven yards long, and such as these are -ornamented according to the abilities and inclination of the surviving -kindred, who never fail to lay a profusion of good cloth about the body, -and sometimes almost cover the outside of the house. Garlands of the -fruit of the palm-nut or _pandanus_, and cocoa-leaves, twisted by the -priests in mysterious knots, with a plant called by them, _Ethee no -Morai_, which is particularly consecrated to funeral solemnities, are -deposited about the place; provision and water are also left at a little -distance, of which, and of other decorations, a more particular -description has been given already. - -As soon as the body is deposited in the Tupapow, the mourning is -renewed. The women assemble, and are led to the door by the nearest -relation, who strikes a shark’s tooth several times into the crown of -her head: the blood copiously follows, and is carefully received upon -pieces of linen, which are thrown under the bier. The rest of the women -follow this example, and the ceremony is repeated at the interval of two -or three days, as long as the zeal and sorrow of the parties hold out. -The tears also which are shed upon these occasions, are received upon -pieces of cloth, and offered as oblations to the dead: some of the -younger people cut off their hair, and that is thrown under the bier -with the other offerings. This custom is founded upon a notion that the -soul of the deceased, which they believe to exist in a separate state, -is hovering about the place where the body is deposited: that it -observes the actions of the survivors, and is gratified by such -testimonies of their affection and grief. - -Two or three days after these ceremonies have been commenced by the -women, during which the men seem to be wholly insensible of their loss, -they also begin to perform their part. The nearest relations take it in -turn to assume the dress, and perform the office, which have already -been particularly described in the account of Tubourai Tamaide’s having -acted as chief mourner to an old woman, his relation, who died while we -were in the island. One part of the ceremony, however, which accounts -for the running away of the people as soon as this procession is in -sight, has not been mentioned. The chief mourner carries in his hand a -long flat stick, the edge of which is set with shark’s teeth, and in a -phrenzy, which his grief is supposed to have inspired, he runs at all he -sees, and if any of them happen to be overtaken, he strikes them most -unmercifully with this indented cudgel, which cannot fail to wound them -in a dangerous manner. - -These processions continue at certain intervals for five moons, but are -less and less frequent, by a gradual diminution, as the end of that time -approaches. When it is expired, what remains of the body is taken down -from the bier, and the bones having been scraped and washed very clean, -are buried, according to the rank of the person, either within or -without a Morai. If the deceased was an Earee, or chief, his skull is -not buried with the rest of the bones, but is wrapped up in fine cloth, -and put in a kind of box made for that purpose, which is also placed in -the Morai. This coffer is called _Ewharre no te Orometua_, the house of -a teacher or master. After this the mourning ceases, except some of the -women continue to be really afflicted for the loss, and in that case -they will sometimes suddenly wound themselves with the shark’s tooth -wherever they happen to be: this perhaps will account for the passion of -grief in which Terapo wounded herself at the fort; some accidental -circumstance might forcibly revive the remembrance of a friend or -relation whom she had lost, with a pungency of regret and tenderness -which forced a vent by tears, and prompted her to a repetition of the -funeral rite. - -The ceremonies, however, do not cease with the mourning: prayers are -still said by the priest, who is well paid by the surviving relations, -and offerings made at the Morai. Some of the things, which from time to -time are deposited there, are emblematical: a young plantain represents -the deceased, and the bunch of feathers the deity who is invoked. The -priest places himself over against the symbol of the god, accompanied by -some of the relations, who are furnished with a small offering, and -repeats his oraison in a set form, consisting of separate sentences; at -the same time weaving the leaves of the cocoa-nut into different forms, -which he afterwards deposits upon the ground where the bones have been -interred; the deity is then addressed by a shrill screech, which is used -only upon that occasion. When the priest retires, the tuft of feathers -is removed, and the provisions left to putrify, or be devoured by the -rats. - -Of the religion of these people, we were not able to acquire any clear -and consistent knowledge: we found it like the religion of most other -countries, involved in mystery, and perplexed with apparent -inconsistencies. The religious language is also here, as it is in China, -different from that which is used in common, so that Tupia, who took -great pains to instruct us, having no words to express his meaning which -we understood, gave us lectures to very little purpose: what we learnt, -however, I will relate with as much perspicuity as I can. - -Nothing is more obvious to a rational being, however ignorant or stupid, -than that the universe and its various parts, as far as they fall under -his notice, were produced by some agent inconceivably more powerful than -himself; and nothing is more difficult to be conceived, even by the most -sagacious and knowing, than the production of them from nothing, which -among us is expressed by the word _Creation_. It is natural, therefore, -as no Being apparently capable of producing the universe is to be seen, -that he should be supposed to reside in some distant part of it, or to -be in his nature invisible, and that he should have originally produced -all that now exists in a manner similar to that in which nature is -renovated by the succession of one generation to another; but the idea -of procreation includes in it that of two persons, and from the -conjunction of two persons these people imagine every thing in the -universe, either originally or derivatively, to proceed. - -The Supreme Deity, one of these two first beings, they call -TAROATAIHETOOMOO, and the other, whom they suppose to have been a rock, -TEPAPA. A daughter of these was TETTOWMATATAYO, the year, or thirteen -months collectively, which they never name but upon this occasion, and -she, by the common father, produced the months, and the months, by -conjunction with each other, the days; the stars they suppose partly to -be the immediate offspring of the first pair, and partly to have -increased among themselves; and they have the same notion with respect -to the different species of plants. Among other progeny of -Taroataihetoomoo and Tepapa, they suppose an inferior race of deities, -whom they call EATUAS. Two of these Eatuas, they say, at some remote -period of time, inhabited the earth, and were the parents of the first -man. When this man, their common ancestor, was born, they say that he -was round like a ball, but that his mother, with great care, drew out -his limbs, and having at length moulded him into his present form, she -called him EOTHE, which signifies _finished_. That being prompted by the -universal instinct to propagate his kind, and being able to find no -female but his mother, he begot upon her a daughter, and upon the -daughter other daughters for several generations, before there was a -son; a son, however, being at length born, he, by the assistance of his -sisters, peopled the world. - -Besides their daughter Tettowmatatayo, the first progenitors of nature -had a son, whom they called TANE. Taroataihetoomoo, the supreme deity, -they emphatically style the causer of earthquakes; but their prayers are -more generally addressed to Tane, whom they suppose to take a greater -part in the affairs of mankind. - -Their subordinate deities, or Eatuas, which are numerous, are of both -sexes: the male are worshipped by the men, and the female by the women; -and each have Morais to which the other sex is not admitted, though they -have also Morais common to both. Men perform the office of priest to -both sexes, but each sex has its priests, for those who officiate for -one sex, do not officiate for the other. - -They believe the immortality of the soul, at least its existence in a -separate state, and that there are two situations of different degrees -of happiness, somewhat analogous to our heaven and hell: the superior -situation they call _Tavirua l’erai_, the other _Tiahoboo_. They do not, -however, consider them as places of reward and punishment, but as -receptacles for different classes; the first, for their chiefs and -principal people, the other for those of inferior rank, for they do not -suppose that their actions here in the least influence their future -state, or indeed that they come under the cognizance of their deities at -all. Their religion, therefore, if it has no influence upon their -morals, is at least disinterested; and their expressions of adoration -and reverence, whether by words or actions, arise only from a humble -sense of their own inferiority, and the ineffable excellence of divine -perfection. - -The character of the priest or Tahowa, is hereditary: the class is -numerous, and consists of all ranks of people; the chief, however, is -generally the younger brother of a good family, and is respected in a -degree next to their kings. Of the little knowledge that is possessed in -this country, the priests have the greatest share; but it consists -principally in an acquaintance with the names and ranks of the different -Eatuas or subordinate divinities, and the opinions concerning the origin -of things, which have been traditionally preserved among the order in -detached sentences, of which some will repeat an incredible number, -though but very few of the words that are used in their common dialect -occur in them. - -The priests, however, are superior to the rest of the people in the -knowledge of navigation and astronomy; and, indeed, the name Tahowa -signifies nothing more than a man of knowledge. As there are priests of -every class, they officiate only among that class to which they belong: -the priest of the inferior class is never called upon by those of -superior rank, nor will the priest of the superior rank officiate for -any of the inferior class. - -Marriage in this island, as appeared to us, is nothing more than an -agreement between the man and woman, with which the priest has no -concern. Where it is contracted, it appears to be pretty well kept, -though sometimes the parties separate by mutual consent, and in that -case a divorce takes place with as little trouble as the marriage. - -But though the priesthood has laid the people under no tax for a nuptial -benediction, there are two operations which it has appropriated, and -from which it derives considerable advantages. One is _tattowing_, and -the other circumcision, though neither of them have any connection with -religion. The tattowing has been described already. Circumcision has -been adopted merely from motives of cleanliness; it cannot indeed -properly be called circumcision, because the _prepuce_ is not mutilated -by a circular wound, but only slit through the upper part to prevent its -contracting over the _glans_. As neither of these can be performed by -any but a priest, and as to be without either is the greatest disgrace, -they may be considered as a claim to surplice fees like our marriages -and christenings, which are cheerfully and liberally paid, not according -to any settled stipend, but the rank and abilities of the parties or -their friends. - -The Morai, as has already been observed, is at once a burying-ground and -a place of worship, and in this particular our churches too much -resemble it. The Indian, however, approaches his Morai with a reverence -and humility that disgraces the Christian, not because he holds any -thing sacred that is there, but because he there worships an invisible -divinity, for whom, though he neither hopes for reward, nor fears -punishment at his hand, he always expresses the profoundest homage and -most humble adoration. I have already given a very particular -description both of the Morais and the altars that are placed near them. -When an Indian is about to worship at the Morai, or brings his offering -to the altar, he always uncovers his body to the waist, and his looks -and attitude are such as sufficiently express a corresponding -disposition of mind. - -It did not appear to us that these people are, in any instance, guilty -of idolatry; at least they do not worship any thing that is the work of -their hands, nor any visible part of the creation. This island, indeed, -and the rest that lie near it, have a particular bird, some a heron, and -others a king’s-fisher, to which they pay a peculiar regard, and -concerning which they have some superstitious notions with respect to -good and bad fortune, as we have of the swallow and robin-red-breast, -giving them the name of EATUA, and by no means killing or molesting -them; yet they never address a petition to them, or approach them with -any act of adoration. - -Though I dare not assert that these people, to whom the art of writing, -and consequently the recording of laws, are utterly unknown, live under -a regular form of government; yet a subordination is established among -them, that greatly resembles the early state of every nation in Europe -under the feudal system, which secured liberty in the most licentious -excess to a few, and entailed the most abject slavery upon the rest. - -Their orders are, _Earee rahie_, which answers to king; _Earee_, baron; -_Manahouni_, vassal; and _Toutou_, villain. The Earee rahie, of which -there are two in this island, one being the sovereign of each of the -peninsulas of which it consists, is treated with great respect by all -ranks, but did not appear to us to be invested with so much power as was -exercised by the Earees in their own districts; nor, indeed, did we, as -I have before observed, once see the sovereign of Obereonoo while we -were in the island. The Earees are lords of one or more of the districts -into which each of the peninsulas is divided, of which there may be -about one hundred in the whole island; and they parcel out their -territories to the Manahounies, who cultivate each his part which he -holds under the baron. The lowest class, called Toutous, seem to be -nearly under the same circumstances as the villains in feudal -governments: these do all the laborious work; they cultivate the land -under the Manahounies, who are only nominal cultivators for the lord, -they fetch wood and water, and, under the direction of the mistress of -the family, dress the victuals: they also catch the fish. - -Each of the Earees keeps a kind of court, and has a great number of -attendants, chiefly the younger brothers of their own tribe; and among -these some hold particular offices, but of what nature exactly we could -not tell. One was called the _Eowa no l’Earee_, and another the _Whanno -no l’Earee_, and these were frequently dispatched to us with messages. -Of all the courts of these Earees, that of Tootahah was the most -splendid, as indeed might reasonably be expected, because he -administered the government for Outou, his nephew, who was Earee rahie -of Obereonoo, and lived upon his estate. The child of the baron or -Earee, as well as of the sovereign or Earee rahie, succeeds to the title -and honours of the father as soon as it is born: so that a baron, who -was yesterday called Earee, and was approached with the ceremony of -lowering the garments, so as to uncover the upper part of the body, is -to-day, if his wife was last night delivered of a child, reduced to the -rank of a private man, all marks of respect being transferred to the -child, if it is suffered to live, though the father still continues -possessor and administrator of his estate: probably this custom has its -share, among other inducements, in forming the societies called Arreoy. - -If a general attack happens to be made upon the island, every district -under the command of an Earee, is obliged to furnish its proportion of -soldiers for the common defence. The number furnished by the principal -districts, which Tupia recollected, when added together, amounted, as I -have observed before, to six thousand six hundred and eighty. - -Upon such occasions, the united force of the whole island is commanded -in chief by the Earee rahie. Private differences between two Earees are -decided by their own people, without at all disturbing the general -tranquillity. - -Their weapons are slings, which they use with great dexterity, pikes -headed with the stings of sting-rays, and clubs, of about six or seven -feet long, made of a very hard heavy wood. Thus armed, they are said to -fight with great obstinacy, which is the more likely to be true, as it -is certain that they give no quarter to either man, woman, or child, who -is so unfortunate as to fall into their hands during the battle, or for -some hours afterwards, till their passion, which is always violent, -though not lasting, has subsided. - -The Earee rahie of Obereonoo, while we were here, was in perfect amity -with the Earee rahie of Tiarreboo, the other peninsula, though he took -himself the title of king of the whole island: this, however, produced -no more jealousy in the other sovereign, than the title of king of -France, assumed by our sovereign, does in his most Christian Majesty. - -In a government so rude, it cannot be expected that distributive justice -should be regularly administered, and indeed, where there is so little -opposition of interest, in consequence of the facility with which every -appetite and passion is gratified, there can be but few crimes. There is -nothing like money, the common medium by which every want and every wish -is supposed to be gratified by those who do not possess it; there is no -apparently permanent good which either fraud or force can unlawfully -obtain; and when all the crimes that are committed by the inhabitants of -civilized countries, to get money, are set out of the account, not many -will remain: add to this, that where the commerce with women is -restrained by no law, men will seldom be under any temptation to commit -adultery, especially as one woman is always less preferred to another, -where they are less distinguished by personal decorations, and the -adventitious circumstances which are produced by the varieties of art, -and the refinements of sentiment. That they are thieves is true; but as -among these people no man can be much injured or benefited by theft, it -is not necessary to restrain it by such punishments, as in other -countries are absolutely necessary to the very existence of civil -society. Tupia, however, tells us, that adultery is sometimes committed -as well as theft. In all cases where an injury has been committed, the -punishment of the offender lies with the sufferer: adultery, if the -parties are caught in the fact, is sometimes punished with death in the -first ardour of resentment; but without circumstances of immediate -provocation, the female sinner seldom suffers more than a beating. As -punishment, however, is enforced by no law, nor taken into the hand of -any magistrate, it is not often inflicted, except the injured party is -the strongest; though the chiefs do sometimes punish their immediate -dependents, for faults committed against each other, and even the -dependents of others, if they are accused of any offence committed in -their district. - -Having now given the best description that I can of the island in its -present state, and of the people, with their customs and manners, -language and arts, I shall only add a few general observations, which -may be of use to future navigators, if any of the ships of Great Britain -should receive orders to visit it. As it produces nothing that appears -to be convertible into an article of trade, and can be used only by -affording refreshments to shipping in their passage through these seas, -it might be made to answer this purpose in a much greater degree, by -transporting thither sheep, goats, and horned cattle, with European -garden-stuff, and other useful vegetables, which there is the greatest -reason to suppose will flourish in so fine a climate, and so rich a -soil. - -Though this, and the neighbouring islands lie within the tropic of -Capricorn, yet the heat is not troublesome, nor did the winds blow -constantly from the east. We had frequently a fresh gale from the S. W. -for two or three days, and sometimes, though very seldom, from the N. W. -Tupia reported, that south westerly winds prevail in October, November, -and December, and we have no doubt of the fact. When the winds are -variable, they are always accompanied by a swell from the S. W. or W. S. -W.; there is also a swell from the same points when it is calm, and the -atmosphere loaded with clouds, which is a sure indication that the winds -are variable, or westerly out at sea, for with the settled trade-wind -the weather is clear. - -The meeting with westerly winds, within the general limits of the -eastern trade, has induced some navigators to suppose that they were -near some large track of land, of which, however, I think they are no -indication. - -It has been found, both by us and the Dolphin, that the trade-wind, in -these parts, does not extend farther to the south than twenty degrees, -beyond which, we generally found a gale from the westward; and it is -reasonable to suppose, that when these winds blow strong, they will -drive back the easterly wind, and consequently encroach upon the limits -within which they constantly blow, and thus necessarily produce variable -winds, as either happens to prevail, and a south-westerly swell. This -supposition is the more probable, as it is well known that the -trade-winds blow but faintly for some distance within their limits, and -therefore may be more easily stopped or repelled by a wind in the -contrary direction: it is also well known, that the limits of the -trade-winds vary not only at different seasons of the year, but -sometimes at the same season, in different years. - -There is therefore no reason to suppose that south-westerly winds, -within these limits, are caused by the vicinity of large tracts of land, -especially as they are always accompanied with a large swell, in the -same direction in which they blow; and we find a much greater surf -beating upon the shores of the south-west side of the islands that are -situated just within the limits of the trade-wind, than upon any other -part of them. - -The tides about these islands are perhaps as inconsiderable as in any -part of the world. A south or S. by W. moon, makes high water in the bay -of Matavai at Otaheite; but the water very seldom rises perpendicularly -above ten or twelve inches. - -The variation of the compass I found to be 4° 46ʹ easterly, this being -the result of a great number of trials made with four of Dr. Knight’s -needles, adapted to azimuth compasses. These compasses I thought the -best that could be procured, yet when applied to the meridian line, I -found them to differ, not only one from another, sometimes a degree and -an half, but the same needle, half a degree from itself in different -trials made on the same day; and I do not remember that I have ever -found two needles which exactly agreed at the same time and place, -though I have often found the same needle agree with itself, in several -trials made one after the other. This imperfection of the needle, -however, is of no consequence to navigation, as the variation can always -be found to a degree of accuracy, more than sufficient for all nautical -purposes. - - - - - CHAP. XX. - -A DESCRIPTION OF SEVERAL OTHER ISLANDS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF OTAHEITE, - WITH VARIOUS INCIDENTS; A DRAMATIC ENTERTAINMENT; AND MANY PARTICULARS - RELATIVE TO THE CUSTOMS AND MANNERS OF THE INHABITANTS. - - -AFTER parting with our friends, we made an easy sail, with gentle -breezes and clear weather, and were informed by Tupia, that four of the -neighbouring islands, which he distinguished by the names of HUAHEINE, -ULIETEA, OTAHA, and BOLABOLA, lay at the distance of between one and two -days sail from Otaheite; and that hogs, fowls, and other refreshments, -with which we had of late been but sparingly supplied, were there to be -procured in great plenty; but having discovered from the hills of -Otaheite, an island lying to the northward, which he called TETHUROA, I -determined first to stand that way, to take a nearer view of it. It lies -N. ½ W. distant eight leagues from the northern extremity of Otaheite, -upon which we had observed the transit, and to which we had, for that -reason, given the name of POINT VENUS. We found it to be a small low -island, and were told by Tupia, that it had no settled inhabitants, but -was occasionally visited by the inhabitants of Otaheite, who sometimes -went thither for a few days to fish; we therefore determined to spend no -more time in a farther examination of it, but to go in search of -Huaheine and Ulietea, which he described to be well peopled, and as -large as Otaheite. - -At six o’clock in the morning of the 14th, the westermost part of EIMEO, -or York Island, bore S. E. ½ S. and the body of Otaheite E. ½ S. At -noon, the body of York Island bore E. by S. ½ S.; and Port-Royal bay, at -Otaheite, S. 70° 45ʹ E. distant 61 miles; and an island, which we took -to be Saunders’s Island, called by the natives TAPOAMANAO, bore S. S. W. -We also saw land bearing N. W. ½ W. which Tupia said was Huaheine. - -On the 15th, it was hazy, with light breezes and calms succeeding each -other, so that we could see no land, and made but little way. Our -Indian, Tupia, often prayed for a wind to his god Tane, and as often -boasted of his success, which indeed he took a very effectual method to -secure, for he never began his address to Tane, till he saw a breeze so -near that he knew it must reach the ship before his oraison was well -over. - -On the 16th, we had a gentle breeze; and in the morning about eight -o’clock, being close in with the north-west part of the island Huaheine, -we sounded, but had no bottom with 80 fathom. Some canoes very soon came -off, but the people seemed afraid, and kept at a distance till they -discovered Tupia, and then they ventured nearer. In one of the canoes -that came up to the ship’s side, was the king of the island and his -wife. Upon assurances of friendship, frequently and earnestly repeated, -their majesties and some others came on board. At first they were struck -with astonishment, and wondered at every thing that was shewn them; yet -they made no inquiries, and seeming to be satisfied with what was -offered to their notice, they made no search after other objects of -curiosity, with which it was natural to suppose a building of such -novelty and magnitude as the ship must abound. After some time, they -became more familiar. I was given to understand, that the name of the -king was OREE, and he proposed, as a mark of amity, that we should -exchange names. To this I readily consented; and he was Cookee, for so -he pronounced my name, and I was Oree, for the rest of the time we were -together. We found these people to be very nearly the same with those of -Otaheite, in person, dress, language, and every other circumstance, -except, if Tupia might be believed, that they would not steal. - -Soon after dinner, we came to an anchor in a small but excellent harbour -on the west side of the island, which the natives call OWHARRE, in -eighteen fathom water, clear ground, and secure from all winds. I went -immediately ashore, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Mr. -Monkhouse, Tupia, King Cookee, and some other of the natives who had -been on board ever since the morning. The moment we landed, Tupia -stripped himself as low as the waist, and desired Mr. Monkhouse to do -the same: he then sat down before a great number of the natives, who -were collected together in a large house or shed; for here, as well as -at Otaheite, a house consists only of a roof supported upon poles; the -rest of us, by his desire, standing behind. He then began a speech or -prayer, which lasted about a quarter of an hour, the king, who stood -over against him, every now and then answering in what appeared to be -set responses. In the course of this harangue, he delivered, at -different times, two handkerchiefs, a black silk neckcloth, some beads, -two small bunches of feathers, and some plantains, as presents to their -Eatua, or God. In return for these, he received for our Eatua, a hog, -some young plantains, and two small bunches of feathers, which he -ordered to be carried on board the ship. After these ceremonies, which -we supposed to be the ratification of a treaty between us, every one was -dismissed to go whither he pleased; and Tupia immediately repaired to -offer his oblations at one of the Morais. - -The next morning, we went on shore again, and walked up the hills, where -the productions were exactly the same as those of Otaheite, except that -the rocks and clay appeared to be more burnt. The houses were neat, and -the boat-houses remarkably large; one that we measured was fifty paces -long, ten broad, and twenty-four feet high, the whole formed a pointed -arch, like those of our old cathedrals, which was supported on one side -by twenty-six, and on the other by thirty pillars, or rather posts, -about two feet high, and one thick, upon most of which were rudely -carved the heads of men, and several fanciful devices, not altogether -unlike those which we sometimes see printed from wooden blocks, at the -beginning and end of old books. The plains, or flat part of the country, -abounded in bread-fruit, and cocoa-nut trees; in some places, however, -there were salt swamps and lagoons, which would produce neither. - -We went again a-shore on the 18th, and would have taken the advantage of -Tupia’s company, in our perambulation; but he was too much engaged with -his friends: we took, however, his boy, whose name was TAYETO, and Mr. -Banks went to take a farther view of what had much engaged his attention -before; it was a kind of chest or ark, the lid of which was nicely sewed -on, and thatched very neatly with palm-nut leaves: it was fixed upon two -poles, and supported on little arches of wood, very neatly carved; the -use of the poles seemed to be to remove it from place to place, in the -manner of our sedan chairs: in one end of it was a square hole, in the -middle of which was a ring touching the sides, and leaving the angles -open, so as to form a round hole within a square one. The first time Mr. -Banks saw this coffer, the aperture at the end was stopped with a piece -of cloth, which, lest he should give offence, he left untouched; -probably there was then something within, but now the cloth was taken -away, and, upon looking into it, it was found empty. The general -resemblance between this repository and the Ark of the Lord among the -Jews is remarkable; but it is still more remarkable, that upon inquiring -of the boy what it was called, he said, _Ewharre no Eatua_, the _house -of the God_: he could however give no account of its signification or -use. We had commenced a kind of trade with the natives, but it went on -slowly; for when any thing was offered, not one of them would take it -upon his own judgment, but collected the opinions of twenty or thirty -people, which could not be done without great loss of time. We got, -however, eleven pigs, and determined to try for more the next day. - -The next day, therefore, we brought out some hatchets, for which we -hoped we should have had no occasion, upon an island which no European -had ever visited before. These procured us three very large hogs; and as -we proposed to sail in the afternoon, King Oree and several others came -on board to take their leave. To the king I gave a small plate of -pewter, on which was stamped this inscription, “His Britannic-Majesty’s -ship, Endeavour, Lieutenant Cook, Commander, 16th July, 1769, Huaheine.” -I gave him also some medals or counters, resembling the coin of England, -struck in the year 1761, with some other presents; and he promised that -with none of these, particularly the plate, he would ever part. I -thought it as lasting a testimony of our having first discovered this -island, as any we could leave behind; and having dismissed our visitors -well satisfied, and in great good-humour, we set sail, about half an -hour after two in the afternoon. - -The island of Huaheine, or Huahene, is situated in the latitude of 16° -43ʹ S. and longitude 152° 52ʹ W. from Greenwich: it is distant from -Otaheite about thirty-one leagues, in the direction of N. 58 W. and is -about seven leagues in compass. Its surface is hilly and uneven, and it -has a safe and commodious harbour. The harbour, which is called by the -natives OWALLE, or OWHARRE, lies on the west side, under the -northernmost high land, and within the north end of the reef, which lies -along that side of the island; there are two inlets or openings, by -which it may be entered, through the reef, about a mile and a half -distant from each other; the southernmost is the widest, and on the -south side of it lies a very small sandy island. - -Huaheine seems to be a month forwarder in its productions than Otaheite, -as we found the cocoa-nuts full of kernel, and some of the new -bread-fruit fit to eat. Of the cocoa-nuts the inhabitants make a food -which they call _Poe_, by mixing them with yams; they scrape both fine, -and having incorporated the powder, they put it into a wooden trough, -with a number of hot stones, by which an oily kind of hasty-pudding is -made, that our people relished very well, especially when it was fried. -Mr. Banks found not more than eleven or twelve new plants; but he -observed some insects, and a species of scorpion which he had not seen -before. - -The inhabitants seem to be larger made, and more stout, than those of -Otaheite. Mr. Banks measured one of the men, and found him to be six -feet three inches and an half high; yet they are so lazy, that he could -not persuade any of them to go up the hills with him: they said, if they -were to attempt it, the fatigue would kill them. The women were very -fair, more so than those of Otaheite; and in general, we thought them -more handsome, though none that were equal to some individuals. Both -sexes seemed to be less timid, and less curious: it has been observed, -that they made no inquiries on board the ship; and when we fired a gun, -they were frighted indeed, but they did not fall down, as our friends at -Otaheite constantly did when we first came among them. For this -difference, however, we can easily account upon other principles; the -people at Huaheine had not seen the Dolphin, those at Otaheite had. In -one, the report of a gun was connected with the idea of instant -destruction; to the other, there was nothing dreadful in it but the -appearance and the sound, as they had never experienced its power of -dispensing death. - -While we were on shore, we found that Tupia had commended them beyond -their merit, when he said that they would not steal; for one of them was -detected in the fact. But when he was seized by the hair, the rest, -instead of running away, as the people at Otaheite would have done, -gathered round, and inquired what provocation had been given: but this -also may be accounted for without giving them credit for superior -courage; they had no experience of the consequence of European -resentment, which the people at Otaheite had in many instances purchased -with life. It must, however, be acknowledged, to their honour, that when -they understood what had happened, they showed strong signs of -disapprobation, and prescribed a good beating for the thief, which was -immediately administered. - -We now made sail for the island of ULIETEA, which lies S. W. by W. -distant seven or eight leagues from Huaheine, and at half an hour after -six in the evening, we were within three leagues of the shore, on the -eastern side. We stood off and on all night, and when the day broke the -next morning, we stood in for the shore: we soon after discovered an -opening in the reef which lies before the island, within which Tupia -told us there was a good harbour. I did not, however, implicitly take -his word; but sent the master out in the pinnace to examine it: he soon -made the signal for the ship to follow; we accordingly stood in, and -anchored in two-and-twenty fathom, with soft ground. - -The natives soon came off to us in two canoes, each of which brought a -woman and a pig. The woman we supposed was a mark of confidence, and the -pig was a present; we received both with proper acknowledgments, and -complimented each of the ladies with a spike nail and some beads, much -to their satisfaction. We were told by Tupia, who had always expressed -much fear of the men of Bolabola, that they had made a conquest of this -island; and that, if we remained here, they would certainly come down -to-morrow, and fight us. We determined, therefore, to go on shore -without delay, while the day was our own. - -I landed in company with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and the other -gentlemen, Tupia being also of the party. He introduced us by repeating -the ceremonies which he had performed at Huaheine, after which I hoisted -an English jack, and took possession of this and the three neighbouring -islands, Huaheine, Otaha, and Bolabola, which were all in sight, in the -name of his Britannic Majesty. After this, we took a walk to a great -Morai, called Tapodeboatea. We found it very different from those of -Otaheite; for it consisted only of four walls, about eight feet high, of -coral stones, some of which were of an immense size, inclosing an area -of about five-and-twenty yards square, which was filled up with smaller -stones: upon the top of it many planks were set up on end, which were -carved in their whole length: at a little distance we found an altar, or -Ewhatta, upon which lay the last oblation or sacrifice, a hog of about -eighty pounds weight, which had been offered whole, and very nicely -roasted. Here were also four or five Ewharre-no-Eatua, or houses of God, -to which carriage poles were fitted, like that which we had seen at -Huaheine. One of these Mr. Banks examined by putting his hand into it, -and found a parcel about five feet long and one thick, wrapped up in -mats: he broke a way through several of these mats with his fingers, but -at length came to one which was made of the fibres of the cocoa-nut, so -firmly plaited together that he found it impossible to tear it, and -therefore was forced to desist; especially as he perceived, that what he -had done already gave great offence to our new friends. From hence we -went to a long house, not far distant, where, among rolls of cloth, and -several other things, we saw the model of a canoe, about three feet -long, to which were tied eight human jaw-bones: we had already learnt -that these, like scalps among the Indians of North America, were -trophies of war. Tupia affirmed that they were the jaw-bones of the -natives of this island: if so, they might have been hung up, with the -model of a canoe, as a symbol of invasion, by the warriors of Bolabola, -as a memorial of their conquest. - -Night now came on apace, but Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander continued their -walk along the shore, and at a little distance saw another -Ewharre-no-Eatua, and a tree of the fig kind, the same as that which Mr. -Green had seen at Otaheite, in great perfection, the trunk, or rather -congeries of the roots of which was forty-two paces in circumference. - -On the 21st, having dispatched the master in the long-boat to examine -the coast of the south part of the island, and one of the mates in the -yawl, to sound the harbour where the ship lay, I went myself in the -pinnace, to survey that part of the island which lies to the north. Mr. -Banks and the gentlemen were again on shore, trading with the natives, -and examining the products and curiosities of the country; they saw -nothing, however, worthy notice, but some more jaw-bones, of which they -made no doubt but that the account they had heard was true. - -On the 22d and 23d, having strong gales and hazy weather, I did not -think it safe to put to sea; but on the 24th, though the wind was still -variable, I got under sail, and plied to the northward within the reef, -with a view to go out at a wider opening than that by which I had -entered; in doing this, however, I was unexpectedly in the most imminent -danger of striking on the rock: the master, whom I had ordered to keep -continually sounding in the chains, suddenly called out “two fathom.” -This alarmed me, for though I knew the ship drew at least fourteen feet, -and that therefore it was impossible such a shoal should be under her -keel; yet the master was either mistaken, or she went along the edge of -a coral rock, many of which, in the neighbourhood of these islands, are -as steep as a wall. - -This harbour, or bay, is called by the natives OOPOA, and taken in its -greatest extent, it is capable of holding any number of shipping. It -extends almost the whole length of the east side of the island, and is -defended from the sea by a reef of coral rocks: the southernmost opening -in this reef, or channel into the harbour, by which we entered, is -little more than a cable’s length wide; it lies off the easternmost part -of the island, and may be known by another small woody island, which -lies a little to the south-east of it, called by the people here OATARA. -Between three and four miles north west from this island, lie two other -islets, in the same direction as the reef, of which they are a part, -called OPURURU and TAMOU; between these lies the other channel into the -harbour, through which I went out, and which is a full quarter of a mile -wide. Still farther to the north-west are some other small islands, near -which I am told there is another small channel into the harbour; but -this I know only by report. - -The principal refreshments that are to be procured at this part of the -island are, plantains, cocoa-nuts, yams, hogs, and fowls; the hogs and -fowls, however, are scarce; and the country, where we saw it, is neither -so populous, nor so rich in produce as Otaheite, or even Huaheine. Wood -and water may also be procured here; but the water cannot conveniently -be got at. - -We were now again at sea, without having received any interruption from -the hostile inhabitants of Bolabola, whom, notwithstanding the fears of -Tupia, we intended to visit. At four o’clock in the afternoon of the -25th, we were within a league of Otaha, which bore N. 77 W. To the -northward of the south end of that island, on the east side of it, and -something more than a mile from the shore, lie two small islands, called -TOAHOUTU and WHENNUAIA; between which, Tupia says, there is a channel -into a very good harbour, which lies within the reef, and appearances -confirmed his report. - -[Illustration: _The Harbour of Oopoa._] - -As I discovered a broad channel between Otaha and Bolabola, I determined -rather to go through it, than run to the northward of all; but the wind -being right a-head, I got no ground. - -Between five and six in the evening of the 26th, as I was standing to -the northward, I discovered a small low island, lying N. by W. or N. N. -W. distant four or five leagues from Bolabola. We were told by Tupia -that the name of this island is TUBAI; that it produces nothing but -cocoa-nuts, and is inhabited only by three families; though it is -visited by the inhabitants of the neighbouring islands, who resort -thither to catch fish, with which the coast abounds. - -On the 27th, about noon, the peak of Bolabola bore N. 25 W. and the -north end of OTAHA, N. 80 W. distant three leagues. The wind continued -contrary all this day and the night following. On the 28th, at six in -the morning, we were near the entrance of the harbour on the east side -of OTAHA, which has been just mentioned; and finding that it might be -examined without losing time, I sent away the master in the long-boat, -with orders to sound it; and, if the wind did not shift in our favour, -to land upon the island, and traffic with the natives for such -refreshments as were to be had. In this boat went Mr. Banks and Dr. -Solander, who landed upon the island, and before night purchased three -hogs, twenty-one fowls, and as many yams and plantains as the boat would -hold. Plantains we thought a more useful refreshment even than pork; for -they were boiled and served to the ship’s company as bread, and were now -the more acceptable as our bread was so full of vermin, that -notwithstanding all possible care, we had sometimes twenty of them in -our mouths at a time, everyone of which tasted as hot as mustard. The -island seemed to be more barren than Ulietea, but the produce was of the -same kind. The people also exactly resembled those that we had seen at -the other islands; they were not numerous, but they flocked about the -boat wherever she went from all quarters, bringing with them whatever -they had to sell. They paid the strangers, of whom they had received an -account from Tupia, the same compliment which they used towards their -own kings, uncovering their shoulders, and wrapping their garments round -their breasts; and were so solicitous to prevent its being neglected by -any of their people, that a man was sent with them, who called out to -every one they met, telling him what they were, and what he was to do. - -In the mean time, I kept plying off and on, waiting for the boat’s -return; at half an hour after five, not seeing any thing of her, I fired -a gun, and after it was dark hoisted a light; at half an hour after -eight, we heard the report of a musquet, which we answered with a gun, -and soon after the boat came on board. The master reported, that the -harbour was safe and commodious, with good anchorage from twenty-five to -sixteen fathom water, clear ground. - -As soon as the boat was hoisted in, I made sail to the northward, and at -eight o’clock in the morning of the 29th, we were close under the Peak -of Bolabola, which was high, rude, and craggy. As the island was -altogether inaccessible in this part, and we found it impossible to -weather it, we tacked and stood off, then tacked again, and after many -trips did not weather the south end of it till twelve o’clock at night. -At eight o’clock the next morning, we discovered an island, which bore -from us N. 63° W. distant about eight leagues; at the same time the Peak -of Bolabola bore N. ¼ E. distant three or four leagues. This island -Tupia called MAURUA, and said that it was small, wholly surrounded by a -reef, and without any harbour for shipping; but inhabited, and bearing -the same produce as the neighbouring islands: the middle of it rises in -a high round hill, that may be seen at the distance of ten leagues. - -When we were off Bolabola, we saw but few people on the shore, and were -told by Tupia that many of the inhabitants were gone to Ulietea. In the -afternoon we found ourselves nearly the length of the south end of -Ulietea, and to windward of some harbours that lay on the west side of -this island. Into one of these harbours, though we had before been -ashore on the other side of the island, I intended to put, in order to -stop a leak which we had sprung in the powder room, and to take in more -ballast, as I found the ship too light to carry sail upon a wind. As the -wind was right against us, we plied off one of the harbours, and about -three o’clock in the afternoon on the 1st of August, we came to an -anchor in the entrance of the channel leading into it, in fourteen -fathom water, being prevented from working in, by a tide which set very -strong out. We then carried out the kedge-anchor, in order to warp into -the harbour; but when this was done, we could not trip the bower-anchor -with all the purchase we could make; we were therefore obliged to lie -still all night, and in the morning, when the tide turned, the ship -going over the anchor, it tripped of itself, and we warped the ship into -a proper birth with ease, and moored in twenty-eight fathom, with a -sandy bottom. While this was doing, many of the natives came off to us -with hogs, fowls, and plantains, which they parted with at an easy rate. - -When the ship was secured, I went on shore to look for a proper place to -get ballast and water, both which I found in a very convenient -situation. - -This day Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander spent on shore, very much to their -satisfaction: every body seemed to fear and respect them, placing in -them at the same time the utmost confidence, behaving as if conscious -that they possessed the power of doing them mischief, without any -propensity to make use of it. Men, women, and children, crowded round -them, and followed them wherever they went; but none of them were guilty -of the least incivility: on the contrary, whenever there happened to be -dirt or water in the way, the men vied with each other to carry them -over on their backs. They were conducted to the houses of the principal -people, and were received in a manner altogether new: the people, who -followed them while they were in their way, rushed forward as soon as -they came to a house, and went hastily in before them, leaving however a -lane sufficiently wide for them to pass. When they entered, they found -those who had preceded them ranged on each side of a long matt, which -was spread upon the ground, and at the farther end of which sat the -family: in the first house they entered, they found some very young -women or children, dressed with the utmost neatness, who kept their -station, expecting the strangers to come up to them and make them -presents, which they did with the greatest pleasure; for prettier -children, or better dressed, they had never seen. One of them was a girl -about six years old; her gown or upper garment was red; a large quantity -of platted hair was wound round her head, the ornament to which they -give the name of Tamou, and which they value more than any thing they -possess. She sat at the upper end of a matt thirty feet long, upon which -none of the spectators presumed to set a foot, notwithstanding the -crowd; and she leaned upon the arm of a well-looking woman about thirty, -who was probably her nurse. Our gentlemen walked up to her, and as soon -as they approached, she stretched out her hand to receive the beads -which they offered her, and no princess in Europe could have done it -with a better grace. - -The people were so much gratified by the presents which were made to -these girls, that when Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander returned, they seemed -attentive to nothing but how to oblige them: and in one of the houses, -they were, by order of the master, entertained with a dance different -from any that they had seen. It was performed by one man, who put upon -his head a large cylindrical piece of wickerwork, or basket, about four -feet long and eight inches in diameter, which was faced with feathers, -placed perpendicularly, with the tops bending forwards, and edged round -with shark’s teeth, and the tail feathers of tropic birds: when he had -put on this head-dress, which is called a _Whow_, he began to dance, -moving slowly, and often turning his head so as that the top of his high -wicker-cap described a circle, and sometimes throwing it so near the -faces of the spectators as to make them start back: this was held among -them as a very good joke, and never failed to produce a peal of -laughter, especially when it was played off upon one of the strangers. - -On the 3d, we went along the shore to the northward, which was in a -direction opposite to that of the route Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander had -taken the day before, with a design to purchase stock, which we always -found the people more ready to part with, and at a more easy price, at -their houses than at the market. In the course of our walk, we met with -a company of dancers, who detained us two hours, and during all that -time afforded us great entertainment. The company consisted of two women -dancers, and six men, with three drums; we were informed by Tupia, that -they were some of the most considerable people of the island, and that, -though they were continually going from place to place, they did not, -like the little strolling companies of Otaheite, take any gratuity from -the spectators. The women had upon their heads a considerable quantity -of Tamou, or platted hair, which was brought several times round the -head, and adorned in many parts with the flowers of the cape-jessamine, -which were stuck in with much taste, and made a head-dress truly -elegant. Their necks, shoulders, and arms, were naked; so were the -breasts also, as low as the parting of the arm; below that, they were -covered with black cloth, which set close to the body; at the side of -each breast, next the arm, was placed a small plume of black feathers, -much in the same manner as our ladies now wear their nosegays or -_bouquets_; upon their hips rested a quantity of cloth plaited very -full, which reached up to the breast, and fell down below into long -petticoats, which quite concealed their feet, and which they managed -with as much dexterity as our opera dancers could have done: the plaits -above the waist were brown and white alternately, the petticoats below -were all white. - -In this dress they advanced sideways in a measured step, keeping -excellent time to the drums, which beat briskly and loud; soon after -they began to shake their hips, giving the folds of cloth that lay upon -them a very quick motion, which was in some degree continued through the -whole dance, though the body was thrown into various postures, sometimes -standing, sometimes sitting, and sometimes resting on their knees and -elbows, the fingers also being moved at the same time with a quickness -scarcely to be imagined. Much of the dexterity of the dancers, however, -and the entertainment of the spectators, consisted in the wantonness of -their attitudes and gestures, which was, indeed, such as exceeds all -description. - -One of these girls had in her ear three pearls; one of them was very -large, but so foul that it was of little value; the other two were as -big as a middling pea; these were clear, and of a good colour and shape, -though spoiled by the drilling. Mr. Banks would fain have purchased -them, and offered the owner any thing she would ask for them, but she -could not be persuaded to part with them at any price: he tempted her -with the value of four hogs, and whatever else she should choose, but -without success; and indeed they set a value upon their pearls very -nearly equal to what they would fetch among us, except they could be -procured before they are drilled. - -Between the dances of the women, the men performed a kind of dramatic -interlude, in which there was dialogue as well as dancing; but we were -not sufficiently acquainted with their language to understand the -subject. - -On the 4th, some of our gentlemen saw a much more regular entertainment -of the dramatic kind, which was divided into four acts. - -Tupia had often told us that he had large possessions in this island, -which had been taken away from him by the inhabitants of Bolabola, and -he now pointed them out in the very bay where the ship was at anchor. -Upon our going on shore, this was confirmed by the inhabitants, who -showed us several districts or Whennuas, which they acknowledged to be -his right. - -On the 5th, I received a present of three hogs, some fowls, several -pieces of cloth, the largest we had seen, being fifty yards long, which -they unfolded and displayed so as to make the greatest show possible; -and a considerable quantity of plantains, cocoa-nuts, and other -refreshments, from Opoony, the formidable king, or, in the language of -the country, Earee rahie, of Bolabola, with a message that he was at -this time upon the island, and that the next day he intended to pay me a -visit. - -In the mean time Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went upon the hills, -accompanied by several of the Indians, who conducted them by excellent -paths, to such a height, that they plainly saw the other side of the -island, and the passage through which the ship had passed the reef -between the little islands of Opururu and Tamou, when we landed upon it -the first time. As they were returning, they saw the Indians exercising -themselves at what they call _Erowhaw_, which is nothing more than -pitching a kind of light lance, headed with hard wood, at a mark: in -this amusement, though they seem very fond of it, they do not excel, for -not above one in twelve struck the mark, which was the hole of a -plantain tree, at about twenty yards distance. - -On the 6th, we all staid at home, expecting the visit of the great king, -but we were disappointed; we had, however, much more agreeable company, -for he sent three very pretty girls to demand something in return for -his present: perhaps he was unwilling to trust himself on board the -ship, or perhaps he thought his messengers would procure a more valuable -return for his hogs and poultry than he could himself; be that as it -may, we did not regret his absence, nor his messengers their visit. - -In the afternoon, as the great king would not come to us, we determined -to go to the great king. As he was lord of the Bolabola men, the -conquerors of this, and the terror of all the other islands, we expected -to see a chief young and vigorous, with an intelligent countenance, and -an enterprising spirit: we found, however, a poor feeble wretch, -withered and decrepit, half blind with age, and so sluggish and stupid -that he appeared scarcely to have understanding enough left to know that -it was probable we should be gratified either by hogs or women. He did -not receive us sitting, or with any state or formality as the other -chiefs had done: we made him our present, which he accepted, and gave a -hog in return. We had learnt that his principal residence was at Otaha; -and upon our telling him that we intended to go thither in our boats the -next morning, and that we should be glad to have him along with us, he -promised to be of the party. - -Early in the morning, therefore, I set out both with the pinnace and -long-boat for Otaha, having some of the gentlemen with me; and in our -way we called upon Opoony, who was in his canoe, ready to join us. As -soon as we landed at Otaha, I made him a present of an axe, which I -thought might induce him to encourage his subjects to bring us such -provision as we wanted; but in this we found ourselves sadly -disappointed; for after staying with him till noon, we left him without -being able to procure a single article. I then proceeded to the north -point of the island, in the pinnace, having sent the long-boat another -way. As I went along, I picked up half a dozen hogs, as many fowls, and -some plantains and yams. Having viewed and sketched the harbour on this -side of the island, I made the best of my way back with the long-boat, -which joined me soon after it was dark; and about ten o’clock at night -we got on board the ship. - -In this excursion Mr. Banks was not with us: he spent the morning on -board the ship, trading with the natives, who came off in their canoes, -for provisions and curiosities; and, in the afternoon, he went on shore -with his draughtsmen, to sketch the dresses of the dancers which he had -seen a day or two before. He found the company exactly the same, except -that another woman had been added to it: the dancing also of the women -was the same, but the interludes of the men were somewhat varied; he saw -five or six performed, which were different from each other, and very -much resembled the drama of our stage dances. The next day, he went -ashore again, with Dr. Solander, and they directed their course towards -the dancing company, which, from the time of our second landing, had -gradually moved about two leagues in their course round the island. They -saw more dancing, and more interludes, the interludes still varying from -each other: in one of them the performers, who were all men, were -divided into two parties, which were distinguished from each other by -the colour of their clothes, one being brown, and the other white. The -brown party represented a master and servants, and the white party a -company of thieves: the master gave a basket of meat to the rest of his -party, with a charge to take care of it: the dance of the white party -consisted of several expedients to steal it, and that of the brown party -in preventing their success. After some time, those who had charge of -the basket placed themselves round it upon the ground, and, leaning upon -it, appeared to go to sleep; the others, improving this opportunity, -came gently upon them, and lifting them up from the basket, carried off -their prize: the sleepers, soon after awaking, missed their basket, but -presently fell a dancing, without any farther regarding their loss; so -that the dramatic action of this dance was, according to the severest -laws of criticism, one, and our lovers of simplicity would here have -been gratified with an entertainment perfectly suited to the chastity of -their taste. - -On the 9th, having spent the morning in trading with the canoes, we took -the opportunity of a breeze, which sprung up at east, and having stopped -our leak, and got the fresh stock which we had purchased on board, we -sailed out of the harbour. When we were sailing away, Tupia strongly -urged me to fire a shot towards Bolabola, possibly as a mark of his -resentment, and to show the power of his new allies: in this I thought -proper to gratify him, though we were seven leagues distant. - -While we were about these islands, we expended very little of the ship’s -provisions, and were very plentifully supplied with hogs, fowls, -plantains and yams, which we hoped would have been of great use to us in -our course to the southward; but the hogs would not eat European grain -of any kind, pulse, or bread-dust, so that we could not preserve them -alive; and the fowls were all very soon seized with a disease that -affected the head so, that they continued to hold it down between their -legs till they died: much dependence, therefore, must not be placed in -live stock taken on board at these places, at least not till a discovery -is made of some food that the hogs will eat, and some remedy for the -disease of the poultry. - -Having been necessarily detained at Ulietea so long, by the carpenters, -in stopping our leak, we determined to give up our design of going on -shore at Bolabola, especially as it appeared to be difficult of access. - -To these six islands, Ulietea, Otaha, Bolabola, Huaheine, Tubai, and -Maurua, as they lie contiguous to each other, I gave the names of -SOCIETY ISLANDS, but did not think it proper to distinguish them -separately by any other names than those by which they were known to the -natives. - -They are situated between the latitude of 16° 10ʹ and 16° 55ʹ S., and -between the longitude of 150° 57ʹ and 152° W. from the meridian of -Greenwich. Ulietea and Otaha lie within about two miles of each other, -and are both inclosed within one reef of coral rocks, so that there is -no passage for shipping between them. This reef forms several excellent -harbours; the entrances into them, indeed, are but narrow, yet when a -ship is once in, nothing can hurt her. The harbours on the east side -have been described already; and on the west side of Ulietea, which is -the largest of the two, there are three. The northernmost, in which we -lay, is called OHAMANENO: the channel leading into it is about a quarter -of a mile wide, and lies between two low sandy islands, which are the -northernmost on this side; between, or just within the two islands, -there is good anchorage in twenty-eight fathom, soft ground. This -harbour, though small, is preferable to the others, because it is -situated in the most fertile part of the island, and where fresh water -is easily to be got. The other two harbours lie to the southward of -this, and not far from the south end of the island: in both of them -there is good anchorage, with ten, twelve, and fourteen fathom. They are -easily known by three small woody islands at their entrance. The -southernmost of these two harbours lies within, and to the southward of -the southernmost of these islands, and the other lies between the two -northernmost. I was told that there were more harbours at the south end -of this island, but I did not examine whether the report was true. - -Otaha affords two very good harbours, one on the east side, and the -other on the west. That on the east side is called Ohamene, and has been -mentioned already; the other is called OHERURUA, and lies about the -middle of the south-west side of the island; it is pretty large, and -affords good anchorage in twenty and twenty-five fathom, nor is there -any want of fresh water. The breach in the reef, that forms a channel -into this harbour, is about a quarter of a mile broad, and, like all the -rest, is very steep on both sides: in general there is no danger here -but what is visible. - -The island of Bolabola lies N. W. and by W. from Otaha, distant about -four leagues; it is surrounded by a reef of rocks, and several small -islands, in compass together about eight leagues. I was told, that, on -the south-west side of the island, there is a channel through the reef -into a very good harbour, but I did not think it worth while to examine -it, for the reasons that have been just assigned. This island is -rendered very remarkable by a high craggy hill, which appears to be -almost perpendicular, and terminates at the top in two peaks, one higher -than the other. - -The land of Ulietea and Otaha is hilly, broken, and irregular, except on -the sea-coast, yet the hills look green and pleasant, and are, in many -places, clothed with wood. The several particulars in which these -islands, and their inhabitants, differ from what we had observed, at -Otaheite, have been mentioned in the course of the narrative. - -We pursued our course without any event worthy of note till the 13th, -about noon, when we saw land bearing S. E., which Tupia told us was an -island called OHETEROA. About six in the evening, we were within two or -three leagues of it, upon which I shortened sail, and stood off and on -all night; the next morning stood in for the land. We ran to leeward of -the island, keeping close in shore, and saw several of the natives, -though in no great numbers, upon the beach. At nine o’clock I sent Mr. -Gore, one of my lieutenants, in the pinnace, to endeavour to land upon -the island, and learn from the natives whether there was anchorage in a -bay then in sight, and what land lay farther to the southward. Mr. Banks -and Dr. Solander accompanied Mr. Gore in this expedition, and as they -thought Tupia might be useful, they took him with them. - -As the boat approached the shore, those on board perceived the natives -to be armed with long lances: as they did not intend to land till they -got round a point which runs out at a little distance, they stood along -the coast, and the natives, therefore, very probably thought they were -afraid of them. They had now got together to the number of about sixty, -and all of them sat down upon the shore, except two, who were dispatched -forward to observe the motions of those in the boat. These men, after -walking abreast of her some time, at length leaped into the water, and -swam towards her, but were soon left behind; two more then appeared, and -attempted to board her in the same manner, but they also were soon left -behind; a fifth man then ran forward alone, and having got a good way -a-head of the boat before he took to the water, easily reached her. Mr. -Banks urged the officer to take him in, thinking it a good opportunity -to get the confidence and good-will of a people, who then certainly -looked upon them as enemies, but he obstinately refused; this man, -therefore, was left behind like the others, and so was a sixth, who -followed him. - -When the boat had got round the point, she perceived that all her -followers had desisted from the pursuit: she now opened a large bay, at -the bottom of which appeared another body of men, armed with long lances -like the first. Here our people prepared to land, and pushed towards the -shore, a canoe at the same time putting off to meet them. As soon as it -came near them, they lay upon their oars, and calling out to them, told -them that they were friends, and, that if they would come up, they would -give them nails, which were held up for them to see: after some -hesitation they came up to the boat’s stern, and took some nails that -were offered them with great seeming satisfaction; but in less than a -minute they appeared to have formed a design of boarding the boat, and -making her their prize: three of them suddenly leaped into it, and the -others brought up the canoe, which the motion in quitting her had thrown -off a little, manifestly with a design to follow their associates, and -support them in their attempt. The first that boarded the boat, entered -close to Mr. Banks, and instantly snatched his powder-horn out of his -pocket: Mr. Banks seized it, and with some difficulty wrenched it out of -his hand, at the same time pressing against his breast in order to force -him over-board, but he was too strong for him, and kept his place: the -officer then snapped his piece, but it missed fire, upon which he -ordered some of the people to fire over their heads; two pieces were -accordingly discharged, upon which they all instantly leaped into the -water: one of the people, either from cowardice or cruelty, or both, -levelled a third piece at one of them as he was swimming away, and the -ball grazed his forehead; happily, however, the wound was very slight, -for he recovered the canoe, and stood up in her as active and vigorous -as the rest. The canoe immediately stood in for the shore, where a great -number of people, not less than two hundred, were now assembled. The -boat also pushed in, but found the land guarded all round with a shoal, -upon which the sea broke with a considerable surf; it was, therefore, -thought advisable by the officer to proceed along shore in search of a -more convenient landing-place: in the mean time, the people on board saw -the canoe go on shore, and the natives gather eagerly round her to -enquire the particulars of what had happened. Soon after, a single man -ran along the shore, armed with his lance, and when he came a-breast of -the boat, he began to dance, brandish his weapon, and call out in a very -shrill tone, which Tupia said was a defiance from the people. The boat -continued to row along the shore, and the champion followed it, -repeating his defiance by his voice and his gestures; but no better -landing-place being found than that where the canoe had put the natives -on shore, the officer turned back with a view to attempt it there, -hoping, that if it should not be practicable, the people would come to a -conference either on the shoals or in their canoes, and that a treaty of -peace might be concluded with them. - -As the boat rowed slowly along the shore back again, another champion -came down, shouting defiance, and brandishing his lance: his appearance -was more formidable than that of the other, for he wore a large cap made -of the tail feathers of the tropic bird, and his body was covered with -stripes of different coloured cloth, yellow, red, and brown. This -gentleman also danced, but with much more nimbleness and dexterity than -the first; our people therefore, considering his agility and his dress, -distinguished him by the name of HARLEQUIN. Soon after a more grave and -elderly man came down to the beach, and hailing the people in the boat, -inquired who they were, and from whence they came; Tupia answered in -their own language, from Otaheite: the three natives then walked -peaceably along the shore till they came to a shoal, upon which a few -people were collected; here they stopped, and after a short conference, -they all began to pray very loud: Tupia made his responses, but -continued to tell us that they were not our friends. When their prayer, -or, as they call it, their _Poorah_, was over, our people entered into a -parley with them, telling them, that, if they would lay by their lances -and clubs, for some had one and some the other, they would come on -shore, and trade with them for whatever they would bring: they agreed, -but it was only upon condition that we would leave behind us our -musquets: this was a condition which, however equitable it might appear, -could not be complied with, nor indeed would it have put the two parties -upon an equality, except their numbers had been equal. Here then the -negotiation seemed to be at an end; but in a little time they ventured -to come nearer to the boat, and at last came near enough to trade, which -they did very fairly, for a small quantity of their cloth and some of -their weapons; but as they gave our people no hope of provisions, nor -indeed any thing else, except they would venture through a narrow -channel to the shore, which, all circumstances considered, they did not -think it prudent to do, they put off the boat and left them. - -With the ship and the boat we had now made the circuit of the island, -and finding that there was neither harbour nor anchorage about it, and -that the hostile disposition of the people would render landing -impracticable, without bloodshed, I determined not to attempt it, having -no motive that could justify the risk of life. - -The bay which the boat entered lies on the west side of the island, the -bottom was foul and rocky, but the water so clear that it could plainly -be seen at the depth of five and twenty fathom, which is one hundred and -fifty feet. - -This island is situated in the latitude of 22° 27ʹ S. and in the -longitude of 150° 47ʹ W. from the meridian of Greenwich. It is thirteen -miles in circuit, and rather high than low, but neither populous nor -fertile in proportion to the other islands that we had seen in these -seas. The chief produce seems to be the tree of which they make their -weapons, called in their language _Etoa_; many plantations of it were -seen along the shore, which is not surrounded, like the neighbouring -islands, by a reef. - -The people seemed to be lusty and well made, rather browner than those -we had left: under their arm-pits they had black marks about as broad as -the hand, the edges of which formed not a straight but an indented line: -they had also circles of the same colour, but not so broad, round their -arms and legs, but were not marked on any other part of the body. - -Their dress was very different from any that we had seen before, as well -as the cloth of which it was made. The cloth was of the same materials -as that which is worn in the other islands, and most of that which was -seen by our people was dyed of a bright but deep yellow, and covered on -the outside with a composition like varnish, which was either red, or of -a dark lead-colour; over this ground it was again painted in stripes of -many different patterns, with wonderful regularity, in the manner of our -striped silks in England: the cloth that was painted red was striped -with black, and that which was painted lead-colour with white. Their -habit was a short jacket of this cloth, which reached about as low as -their knees; it was of one piece, and had no other making than a hole in -the middle of it, stitched round with long stitches, in which it -differed from all that we had seen before: through this hole the head -was put, and what hung down was confined to their bodies by a piece of -yellow cloth or sash, which, passing round the neck behind, was crossed -upon the breast, and then collected round the waist like a belt, which -passed over another belt of red cloth, so that they made a very gay and -warlike appearance; some had caps of the feathers of the tropic bird, -which have been before described, and some had a piece of white or -lead-coloured cloth wound about the head like a small turban, which our -people thought more becoming. - -Their arms were long lances, made of the Etoa, the wood of which is very -hard; they were well polished and sharpened at one end: some were near -twenty feet long, though not more than three fingers thick: they had -also a weapon, which was both club and pike, made of the same wood, -about seven feet long; this also was well polished, and sharpened at one -end into a broad point. As a guard against these weapons, when they -attack each other, they have matts folded up many times, which they -place under their clothes from the neck to the waist: the weapons -themselves indeed are capable of much less mischief than those of the -same kind which we saw at the other islands, for the lances were there -pointed with the sharp bone of the stingray that is called the sting, -and the pikes were of much greater weight. The other things that we saw -here were all superior in their kind to any we had seen before; the -cloth was of a better colour in the dye, and painted with greater -neatness and taste; the clubs were better cut and polished, and the -canoe, though a small one, was very rich in ornament, and the carving -was executed in a better manner: among other decorations peculiar to -this canoe, was a line of small white feathers, which hung from the head -and stern on the outside, and which, when we saw them, were thoroughly -wetted by the spray. - -Tupia told us, that there were several islands lying at different -distances, and in different directions from this, between the south and -the north west; and that, at the distance of three days’ sail to the -north-east, there was an island called MANUA, Bird-island: he seemed, -however, most desirous that we should sail to the westward, and -described several islands in that direction which he said he had -visited: he told us that he had been ten or twelve days in going -thither, and thirty in coming back, and that the _Pahie_ in which he had -made the voyage, sailed much faster than the ship: reckoning his Pahie -therefore to go at the rate of forty leagues a day, which, from my own -observation, I have great reason to think these boats will do, it would -make four hundred leagues in ten days, which I compute to be the -distance of Boscawen and Keppel’s Islands, discovered by Captain Wallis, -westward of Ulietea, and therefore think it very probable that they were -the islands he had visited. The farthest island that he knew any thing -of to the southward, he said, lay at the distance of about two days’ -sail from Oteroah, and was called MOUTOU; but he said that his father -had told him there were islands to the southward of that: upon the -whole, I was determined to stand southward in search of a continent, but -to spend no time in searching for islands, if we did not happen to fall -in with them during our course. - - - - - BOOK II. - - CHAP. I. - - THE PASSAGE FROM OTEROAH TO NEW ZEALAND; INCIDENTS WHICH HAPPENED ON - GOING A-SHORE THERE, AND WHILE THE SHIP LAY IN POVERTY BAY. - - -WE sailed from Oteroah on the 15th of August, and on Friday the 25th we -celebrated the anniversary of our leaving England, by taking a Cheshire -cheese from a locker, where it had been carefully treasured up for this -occasion, and tapping a cask of porter, which proved to be very good, -and in excellent order. On the 29th, one of the sailors got so drunk, -that the next morning he died: we thought at first that he could not -have come honestly by the liquor, but we afterwards learnt that the -boatswain, whose mate he was, had, in mere good-nature, given him part -of a bottle of rum. - -On the 30th, we saw the comet; at one o’clock in the morning, it was a -little above the horizon in the eastern part of the heavens; at about -half an hour after four it passed the meridian, and its tail subtended -an angle of forty-two degrees. Our latitude was 38° 20ʹ S., our -longitude, by log, 147° 6ʹ W., and the variation of the needle, by the -azimuth, 7° 9ʹ E. Among others that observed the comet, was Tupia, who -instantly cried out, that as soon as it should be seen by the people of -Bolabola, they would kill the inhabitants of Ulietea, who would, with -the utmost precipitation, fly to the mountains. - -On the 1st of September, being in the latitude of 40° 22ʹ S., and -longitude 147° 29ʹ W., and there not being any signs of land, with a -heavy sea from the westward, and strong gales, I wore, and stood back to -the northward, fearing that we might receive such damage in our sails -and rigging, as would hinder the prosecution of the voyage. - -On the next day, there being strong gales to the westward, I brought to, -with the ship’s head to the northward; but in the morning of the 3d, the -wind being more moderate, we loosened the reef of the main-sail, set the -top-sails, and plied to the westward. - -We continued our course till the 19th, when our latitude being 29° and -our longitude 159° 29ʹ, we observed the variation to be 8° 32ʹ E. On the -24th, being in latitude 33° 18ʹ, longitude 162° 51ʹ, we observed a small -piece of sea-weed, and a piece of wood covered with barnacles: the -variation here was 10° 48ʹ E. - -On the 27th, being in latitude 28° 59ʹ, longitude 169° 5ʹ, we saw a seal -asleep upon the water, and several bunches of sea-weed. The next day we -saw more sea-weed in bunches, and on the 29th, a bird, which we thought -a land-bird; it somewhat resembled a snipe, but had a short bill. On the -1st of October, we saw birds innumerable, and another seal asleep upon -the water; it is a general opinion, that seals never go out of -soundings, or far from land, but those that we saw in these seas prove -the contrary. Rock-weed is, however, a certain indication that land is -not far distant. The next day, it being calm, we hoisted out the boat, -to try whether there was a current, but found none. Our latitude was 37° -10ʹ, longitude 172° 54ʹ W. On the 3d, being in latitude 36° 56ʹ, -longitude 173° 27ʹ, we took up more sea-weed, and another piece of wood -covered with barnacles. The next day, we saw two more seals, and a brown -bird, about as big as a raven, with some white feathers under the wing. -Mr. Gore told us, that birds of this kind were seen in great numbers -about Falkland’s Islands, and our people gave them the name of -Port-Egmont hens. - -On the 5th, we thought the water changed colour, but, upon casting the -lead, had no ground with 180 fathom. In the evening of this day, the -variation was 12° 50ʹ E., and, while we were going nine leagues, it -increased to 14° 2ʹ. - -On the next day, Friday, October the 6th, we saw land from the -mast-head, bearing W. by N., and stood directly for it; in the evening, -it could just be discerned from the deck, and appeared large. The -variation this day was, by azimuth and amplitude, 15° 4-½ʹ E., and by -observation made of the sun and moon, the longitude of the ship appeared -to be 180° 55ʹ W., and by the medium of this and subsequent -observations, there appeared to be an error in the ship’s account of -longitude during her run from Otaheite of 3° 16ʹ, she being so much to -the westward of the longitude resulting from the log. At midnight, I -brought to and sounded, but had no ground with one hundred and seventy -fathom. - -On the 7th, it fell calm, we therefore approached the land slowly, and -in the afternoon, when a breeze sprung up, we were still distant seven -or eight leagues. It appeared still larger as it was more distinctly -seen, with four or five ranges of hills, rising one over the other, and -a chain of mountains above all, which appeared to be of an enormous -height. This land became the subject of much eager conversation; but the -general opinion seemed to be that we had found the _Terra australis -incognita_. About five o’clock, we saw the opening of a bay, which -seemed to run pretty far inland, upon which we hauled our wind and stood -in for it; we also saw smoke ascending from different places on shore. -When night came on, however, we kept plying off and on till day-light, -when we found ourselves to the leeward of the bay, the wind being at -north: we could now perceive that the hills were clothed with wood, and -that some of the trees in the valleys were very large. By noon we -fetched in with the south-west point; but not being able to weather it, -tacked and stood off: at this time we saw several canoes standing cross -the bay, which, in a little time, made to shore, without seeming to take -the least notice of the ship; we also saw some houses, which appeared to -be small, but neat; and near one of them a considerable number of the -people collected together, who were sitting upon the beach, and who, we -thought, were the same that we had seen in the canoes. Upon a small -peninsula, at the north-east head, we could plainly perceive a pretty -high and regular paling, which inclosed the whole top of a hill; this -was also the subject of much speculation, some supposing it to be a park -of deer, others an inclosure for oxen and sheep. About four o’clock in -the afternoon, we anchored on the north-west side of the bay, before the -entrance of a small river, in ten fathom water, with a fine sandy -bottom, and at about half a league from the shore. The sides of the bay -are white cliffs of a great height; the middle is low land, with hills -gradually rising behind, one towering above another, and terminating in -the chain of mountains, which appeared to be far inland. - -In the evening I went on shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. -Solander, with the pinnace and yawl, and a party of men. We landed -abreast of the ship, on the east side of the river, which was here about -forty yards broad; but seeing some natives on the west side whom I -wished to speak with, and finding the river not fordable, I ordered the -yawl in to carry us over, and left the pinnace at the entrance. When we -came near the place where the people were assembled, they all ran away; -however, we landed, and leaving four boys to take care of the yawl, we -walked up to some huts which were about two or three hundred yards from -the water-side. When we had got some distance from the boat, four men, -armed with long lances, rushed out of the woods, and running up to -attack the boat, would certainly have cut her off, if the people in the -pinnace had not discovered them, and called to the boys to drop down the -stream: the boys instantly obeyed; but being closely pursued by the -Indians, the Cockswain of the pinnace, who had the charge of the boats, -fired a musket over their heads; at this they stopped and looked round -them, but in a few minutes renewed the pursuit, brandishing their lances -in a threatening manner: the Cockswain then fired a second musket over -their heads, but of this they took no notice; and one of them lifting up -his spear to dart it at the boat, another piece was fired, which shot -him dead. When he fell, the other three stood motionless for some -minutes, as if petrified with astonishment; as soon as they recovered, -they went back, dragging after them the dead body, which however they -soon left, that it might not encumber their flight. At the report of the -first musket, we drew together, having straggled to a little distance -from each other, and made the best of our way back to the boat; and -crossing the river, we soon saw the Indian lying dead upon the ground. -Upon examining the body, we found that he had been shot through the -heart: he was a man of the middle size and stature; his complexion was -brown, but not very dark; and one side of his face was tattowed in -spiral lines of a very regular figure: he was covered with a fine cloth, -of a manufacture altogether new to us, and it was tied on exactly -according to the representation in Valentyn’s Account of Abel Tasman’s -Voyage, vol. iii. part 2. page 50.: his hair also was tied in a knot on -the top of his head, but had no feather in it. We returned immediately -to the ship, where we could hear the people on shore talking with great -earnestness, and in a very loud tone, probably about what had happened, -and what should be done. - -In the morning, we saw several of the natives where they had been seen -the night before, and some walking with a quick pace towards the place -where we had landed, most of them unarmed; but three or four with long -pikes in their hands. As I was desirous to establish an intercourse with -them, I ordered three boats to be manned with seamen and marines, and -proceeded towards the shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, the -other gentlemen, and Tupia; about fifty of them seemed to wait for our -landing, on the opposite side of the river, which we thought a sign of -fear, and seated themselves upon the ground: at first, therefore, -myself, with only Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, landed from the -little boat, and advanced towards them; but we had not proceeded many -paces before they all started up, and every man produced either a long -pike, or a small weapon of green Talc, extremely well polished, about a -foot long, and thick enough to weigh four or five pounds: Tupia called -to them in the language of Otaheite; but they answered only by -flourishing their weapons, and making signs to us to depart; a musket -was then fired wide of them, and the ball struck the water, the river -being still between us; they saw the effect, and desisted from their -threats: but we thought it prudent to retreat till the marines could be -landed. This was soon done; and they marched, with a jack carried before -them, to a little bank, about fifty yards from the water-side; here they -were drawn up, and I again advanced, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander; -Tupia, Mr. Green, and Mr. Monkhouse, being with us. Tupia was again -directed to speak to them, and it was with great pleasure that we -perceived he was perfectly understood, he and the natives speaking only -different dialects of the same language. He told them that we wanted -provision and water, and would give them iron in exchange, the -properties of which he explained as well as he was able. They were -willing to trade, and desired that we would come over to them for that -purpose: to this we consented, provided they would lay by their arms; -which, however, they could by no means be persuaded to do. During this -conversation, Tupia warned us to be upon our guard, for that they were -not our friends: we then pressed them in our turn to come over to us; -and at last one of them stripped himself, and swam over without his -arms: he was almost immediately followed by two more, and soon after by -most of the rest, to the number of twenty or thirty; but these brought -their arms with them. We made them all presents of iron and beads; but -they seemed to set little value upon either, particularly the iron, not -having the least idea of its use; so that we got nothing in return but a -few feathers: they offered indeed to exchange their arms for ours, and, -when we refused, made many attempts to snatch them out of our hands. As -soon as they came over, Tupia repeated his declaration, that they were -not our friends, and again warned us to be upon our guard; their -attempts to snatch our weapons, therefore, did not succeed; and we gave -them to understand by Tupia, that we should be obliged to kill them, if -they offered any farther violence. In a few minutes, however, Mr. Green -happening to turn about, one of them snatched away his hanger, and -retiring to a little distance, waved it round his head, with a shout of -exultation: the rest now began to be extremely insolent, and we saw more -coming to join them from the opposite side of the river. It was -therefore become necessary to repress them, and Mr. Banks fired at the -man who had taken the hanger, with small shot, at the distance of about -fifteen yards: when the shot struck him, he ceased his cry; but instead -of returning the hanger, continued to flourish it over his head, at the -same time slowly retreating to a greater distance. Mr. Monkhouse seeing -this, fired at him with ball, and he instantly dropped. Upon this the -main body, who had retired to a rock in the middle of the river upon the -first discharge, began to return; two that were near to the man who had -been killed, ran up to the body, one seized his weapon of green Talc, -and the other endeavoured to secure the hanger, which Mr. Monkhouse had -but just time to prevent. As all that had retired to the rock were now -advancing, three of us discharged our pieces, loaded only with small -shot, upon which they swam back for the shore; and we perceived, upon -their landing, that two or three of them were wounded. They retired -slowly up the country, and we reimbarked in our boats. - -As we had unhappily experienced, that nothing was to be done with these -people at this place; and finding the water in the river to be salt, I -proceeded in the boats round the head of the bay in search of fresh -water, and with a design, if possible, to surprise some of the natives, -and take them on board, where, by kind treatment and presents I might -obtain their friendship, and by their means establish an amicable -correspondence with their countrymen. - -To my great regret, I found no place where I could land, a dangerous -surf every where beating upon the shore; but I saw two canoes coming in -from the sea, one under sail, and the other worked with paddles. I -thought this a favourable opportunity to get some of the people into my -possession without mischief, as those in the canoe were probably -fishermen, and without arms, and I had three boats full of men. I -therefore disposed the boats so as most effectually to intercept them in -their way to the shore; the people in the canoe that was paddled -perceived us so soon, that, by making to the nearest land with their -utmost strength, they escaped us; the other sailed on till she was in -the midst of us without discerning what we were; but the moment she -discovered us, the people on board struck their sail, and took to their -paddles, which they plied so briskly that she out-ran the boat. They -were however within hearing, and Tupia called out to them to come -along-side, and promised for us that they should come to no hurt: they -chose, however, rather to trust to their paddles than our promises, and -continued to make from us with all their power. I then ordered a musket -to be fired over their heads, as the least exceptionable expedient to -accomplish my design, hoping it would either make them surrender, or -leap into the water. Upon the discharge of the piece, they ceased -paddling; and all of them, being seven in number, began to strip, as we -imagined, to jump overboard; but it happened otherwise. They immediately -formed a resolution not to fly, but to fight; and when the boat came up, -they began the attack with their paddles, and with stones and other -offensive weapons that were in the boat, so vigorously, that we were -obliged to fire upon them in our own defence; four were unhappily -killed, and the other three, who were boys, the eldest about nineteen, -and the youngest about eleven, instantly leaped into the water; the -eldest swam with great vigour, and resisted the attempts of our people -to take him into the boat by every effort that he could make: he was -however at last overpowered, and the other two were taken up with less -difficulty. I am conscious that the feeling of every reader of humanity -will censure me for having fired upon these unhappy people, and it is -impossible that, upon a calm review, I should approve it myself. They -certainly did not deserve death for not chusing to confide in my -promises; or not consenting to come on board my boat, even if they had -apprehended no danger; but the nature of my service required me to -obtain a knowledge of their country, which I could no otherwise effect -than by forcing my way into it in a hostile manner, or gaining admission -through the confidence and good-will of the people. I had already tried -the power of presents without effect; and I was now prompted, by my -desire to avoid further hostilities, to get some of them on board, as -the only method left of convincing them that we intended them no harm, -and had it in our power to contribute to their gratification and -convenience. Thus far my intentions certainly were not criminal; and -though in the contest, which I had not the least reason to expect, our -victory might have been complete without so great an expence of life; -yet in such situations, when the command to fire has been given, no man -can restrain its excess, or prescribe its effect. - -As soon as the poor wretches whom we had taken out of the water were in -the boat, they squatted down, expecting no doubt instantly to be put to -death: we made haste to convince them of the contrary, by every method -in our power; we furnished them with clothes, and gave them every other -testimony of kindness that could remove their fears and engage their -good-will. Those who are acquainted with human nature will not wonder, -that the sudden joy of these young savages at being unexpectedly -delivered from the fear of death, and kindly treated by those whom they -supposed would have been their instant executioners, surmounted their -concern for the friends they had lost, and was strongly expressed in -their countenances and behaviour. Before we reached the ship, their -suspicions and fears being wholly removed, they appeared to be not only -reconciled to their situation but in high spirits, and upon being -offered some bread when they came on board, they devoured it with a -voracious appetite. They answered and asked many questions, with great -appearance of pleasure and curiosity; and when our dinner came, they -expressed an inclination to taste every thing that they saw: they seemed -best pleased with the salt pork, though we had other provisions upon the -table. At sun-set, they eat another meal with great eagerness, each -devouring a large quantity of bread, and drinking above a quart of -water. We then made them beds upon the lockers, and they went to sleep -with great seeming content. In the night, however, the tumult of their -minds having subsided, and given way to reflection, they sighed often -and loud. Tupia, who was always upon the watch to comfort them, got up, -and by soothing and encouragement made them not only easy but cheerful; -their cheerfulness was encouraged so that they sung a song with a degree -of taste that surprised us: the tune was solemn and slow, like those of -our Psalms, containing many notes and semi-tones. Their countenances -were intelligent and expressive, and the middlemost, who seemed to be -about fifteen, had an openness in his aspect, and an ease in his -deportment, which were very striking: we found that the two eldest were -brothers, and that their names were TAAHOURANGE and KOIKERANGE; the name -of the youngest was MARAGOVETE. As we were returning to the ship, after -having taken these boys into the boat, we picked up a large piece of -pumice-stone floating upon the water; a sure sign that there either is, -or has been a volcano in this neighbourhood. - -In the morning, they all seemed to be cheerful, and ate another enormous -meal; after this we dressed them, and adorned them with bracelets, -anclets, and necklaces, after their own fashion, and the boat being -hoisted out, they were told that we were going to set them ashore: this -produced a transport of joy; but upon perceiving that we made towards -our first landing-place near the river, their countenances changed, and -they entreated with great earnestness that they might not be set ashore -at that place, because they said, it was inhabited by their enemies, who -would kill them and eat them. This was a great disappointment to me; -because I hoped the report and appearance of the boys would procure a -favourable reception for ourselves. I had already sent an officer on -shore with the marines and a party of men to cut wood, and I was -determined to land near the place; not, however, to abandon the boys, -if, when we got ashore, they should be unwilling to leave us; but to -send a boat with them in the evening to that part of the bay to which -they pointed, and which they call their home. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, -and Tupia, were with me, and upon our landing with the boys, and -crossing the river, they seemed at first to be unwilling to leave us; -but at length they suddenly changed their mind, and, though not without -a manifest struggle, and some tears, they took their leave: when they -were gone, we proceeded along a swamp, with a design to shoot some -ducks, of which we saw great plenty, and four of the marines attended -us, walking abreast of us upon a bank that overlooked the country. After -we had advanced about a mile, these men called out to us and told us, -that a large body of the Indians was in sight, and advancing at a great -rate. Upon receiving this intelligence, we drew together, and resolved -to make the best of our way to the boats; we had scarcely begun to put -this into execution, when the three Indian boys started suddenly from -some bushes, where they had concealed themselves, and again claimed our -protection: we readily received them, and repairing to the beach as the -clearest place, we walked briskly towards the boats. The Indians were in -two bodies; one ran along the bank which had been quitted by the -marines, the other fetched a compass by the swamp, so that we could not -see them: when they perceived that we had formed into one body, they -slackened their pace, but still followed us in a gentle walk; that they -slackened their pace, was for us, as well as for them, a fortunate -circumstance; for when we came to the side of the river, where we -expected to find the boats that were to carry us over to the wooders, we -found the pinnace at least a mile from her station, having been sent to -pick up a bird which had been shot by the officer on shore, and the -little boat was obliged to make three trips before we could all get over -to the rest of the party. As soon as we were drawn up on the other side, -the Indians came down, not in a body as we expected, but by two or three -at a time, all armed, and in a short time their number increased to -about two hundred: as we now despaired of making peace with them, seeing -that the dread of our small arms did not keep them at a distance, and -that the ship was too far off to reach the place with a shot, we -resolved to re-imbark, lest our stay should embroil us in another -quarrel, and cost more of the Indians their lives. We therefore advanced -towards the pinnace, which was now returning, when one of the boys -suddenly cried out, that his uncle was among the people who had marched -down to us, and desired us to stay and talk with them: we complied, and -a parley immediately commenced between them and Tupia; during which the -boys held up every thing we had given them as tokens of our kindness and -liberality; but neither would either of the boys swim over to them, or -any of them to the boys. The body of the man who had been killed the day -before, still lay exposed upon the beach; the boys seeing it lie very -near us, went up to it, and covered it with some of the clothes that we -had given them; and soon after a single man, unarmed, who proved to be -the uncle of Maragovete, the youngest of the boys, swam over to us, -bringing in his hand a green branch, which we supposed, as well here as -at Otaheite, to be an emblem of peace. We received his branch by the -hands of Tupia, to whom he gave it, and made him many presents; we also -invited him to go on board the ship, but he declined it; we therefore -left him, and expected that his nephew, and the two other young Indians -would have staid with him, but to our great surprise, they chose rather -to go with us. As soon as we had retired, he went and gathered another -green branch, and with this in his hand, he approached the dead body -which the youth had covered with part of his clothes, walking sideways, -with many ceremonies, and then throwing it towards him. When this was -done, he returned to his companions, who had sat down upon the sand to -observe the issue of his negociation: they immediately gathered round -him, and continued in a body above an hour, without seeming to take any -farther notice of us. We were more curious than they, and observing them -with our glasses from on board the ship, we saw some of them cross the -river upon a kind of raft, or catamarine, and four of them carry off the -dead body which had been covered by the boy, and over which his uncle -had performed the ceremony of the branch, upon a kind of bier, between -four men: the other body was still suffered to remain where it had been -first left. - -After dinner, I directed Tupia to ask the boys, if they had now any -objection to going ashore, where we had left their uncle, the body -having been carried off, which we understood was a ratification of -peace: they said, they had not; and the boat being ordered, they went -into it with great alacrity: when the boat, in which I had sent two -midshipmen, came to land, they went willingly ashore; but soon after she -put off, they returned to the rocks, and wading into the water, -earnestly entreated to be taken on board again; but the people in the -boat, having positive orders to leave them, could not comply. We were -very attentive to what happened on shore, and keeping a constant watch -with our glasses, we saw a man pass the river upon another raft, and -fetch them to a place where forty or fifty of the natives were -assembled, who closed round them, and continued in the same place till -sun-set: upon looking again, when we saw them in motion, we could -plainly distinguish our three prisoners, who separated themselves from -the rest, came down to the beach, and having waved their hands three -times towards the ship, ran nimbly back, and joined their companions, -who walked leisurely away towards that part which the boys had pointed -to as their dwelling-place; we had therefore the greatest reason to -believe that no mischief would happen to them, especially as we -perceived that they went off in the clothes we had given them. - -After it was dark, loud voices were heard on shore in the bottom of the -bay as usual, of which we could never learn the meaning. - - - - - CHAP. II. - -A DESCRIPTION OF POVERTY BAY, AND THE FACE OF THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. THE - RANGE FROM THENCE TO CAPE TURNAGAIN, AND BACK TO TOLAGA, WITH SOME - ACCOUNT OF THE PEOPLE AND THE COUNTRY, AND SEVERAL INCIDENTS THAT - HAPPENED ON THAT PART OF THE COAST. - - -THE next morning, at six o’clock, we weighed, and stood away from this -unfortunate and inhospitable place, to which I gave the name of POVERTY -BAY, and which by the natives is called TAONEROA, or Long Sand, as it -did not afford us a single article that we wanted, except a little wood. -It lies in latitude 38° 42ʹ S. and longitude 181° 36ʹ W.; it is in the -form of an horse-shoe, and is known by an island lying close under the -north-east point: the two points which form the entrance are high, with -steep white cliffs, and lie a league and a half, or two leagues from -each other, N. E. by E. and S. W. by W.; the depth of water in the bay -is from twelve to five fathom, with a sandy bottom and good anchorage; -but the situation is open to the wind between the south and east: boats -can go in and out of the river at any time of the tide in fine weather; -but as there is a bar at the entrance, no boat can go either in or out -when the sea runs high: the best place to attempt it, is on the -north-east side, and it is there practicable when it is not so in any -other part. The shore of the bay, a little within its entrance, is a low -flat sand; behind which, at a small distance, the face of the country is -finely diversified by hills and valleys, all clothed with wood, and -covered with verdure. The country also appears to be well inhabited, -especially in the valleys leading up from the bay, where we daily saw -smoke rising in clouds one behind another, to a great distance, till the -view terminated in mountains of a stupendous height. - -The south-west point of the bay I named YOUNG NICK’S HEAD, after -Nicholas Young, the boy who first saw the land; at noon, it bore N. W. -by W. distant about three or four leagues, and we were then about three -miles from the shore. The main land extended from N. E. by N. to south, -and I proposed to follow the direction of the coast to the southward as -far as the latitude of 40 or 41; and then, if I met with no -encouragement to proceed farther, to return to the northward. - -In the afternoon we lay becalmed, which the people on shore perceiving, -several canoes put off, and came within less than a quarter of a mile of -the vessel; but could not be persuaded to come nearer, though Tupia -exerted all the powers of his lungs and his eloquence upon the occasion, -shouting, and promising that they should not be hurt. Another canoe was -now seen coming from Poverty Bay, with only four people on board, one of -whom we well remembered to have seen in our first interview upon the -rock. This canoe, without stopping or taking the least notice of the -others, came directly alongside of the ship, and with very little -persuasion, we got the Indians on board. Their example was soon followed -by the rest, and we had about us seven canoes, and about fifty men. We -made them all presents with a liberal hand; notwithstanding which, they -were so desirous to have more of our commodities, that they sold us -every thing they had, even the clothes from their backs, and the paddles -from their boats. There were but two weapons among them, these were the -instruments of green talc, which were shaped somewhat like a pointed -battledore, with a short handle and sharp edges; they were called -_Patoo-patoo_, and were well contrived for close-fighting, as they would -certainly split the thickest skull at a single blow. - -When these people had recovered from the first impressions of fear, -which, notwithstanding their resolution in coming on board, had -manifestly thrown them into some confusion, we inquired after our poor -boys. The man who first came on board immediately answered, that they -were unhurt and at home; adding, that he had been induced to venture on -board by the account which they had given him of the kindness with which -they had been treated, and the wonders which were contained in the ship. - -While they were on board they showed every sign of friendship, and -invited us very cordially to go back to our old bay, or to a small cove -which they pointed out, that was not quite so far off; but I chose -rather to prosecute my discoveries than go back, having reason to hope -that I should find a better harbour than any I had yet seen. - -About an hour before sun-set, the canoes put off from the ship with the -few paddles they had reserved, which were scarcely sufficient to set -them on shore; but by some means or other three of their people were -left behind: as soon as we discovered it, we hailed them; but not one of -them would return to take them on board: this greatly surprised us; but -we were surprised still more to observe that the deserted Indians did -not seem at all uneasy at their situation, but entertained us with -dancing and singing after their manner, eat their suppers, and went -quietly to bed. - -A light breeze springing up soon after it was dark, we steered along the -shore under an easy sail till midnight, and then brought to, soon after -which it fell calm; we were now some leagues distant from the place -where the canoes had left us, and at day-break, when the Indians -perceived it, they were seized with consternation and terror, and -lamented their situation in loud complaints, with gestures of despair -and many tears. Tupia, with great difficulty, pacified them; and about -seven o’clock in the morning, a light breeze springing up, we continued -to stand south-west along the shore. Fortunately for our poor Indians, -two canoes came off about this time, and made towards the ship: they -stopped, however, at a little distance, and seemed unwilling to trust -themselves nearer. Our Indians were greatly agitated in this state of -uncertainty, and urged their fellows to come alongside of the ship, both -by their voice and gestures, with the utmost eagerness and impatience. -Tupia interpreted what they said, and we were much surprised to find, -that, among other arguments, they assured the people in the canoes, we -did not eat men. We now began seriously to believe that this horrid -custom prevailed among them; for what the boys had said, we considered -as a mere hyperbolical expression of their fear. One of the canoes, at -length, ventured to come under the ship’s side; and an old man came on -board, who seemed to be a chief from the finery of his garment, and the -superiority of his weapon, which was a Patoo-patoo, made of bone, that, -as he said, had belonged to a whale. He staid on board but a short time, -and when he went away, he took with him our guests, very much to the -satisfaction both of them and us. - -At the time when we sailed, we were abreast of a point, from which the -land trends S. S. W. and which on account of its figure, I called CAPE -TABLE. This point lies seven leagues to the southward of Poverty Bay, in -latitude 39° 7ʹ S. and longitude 181° 36ʹ W.; it is of a considerable -height, makes a sharp angle, and appears to be quite flat at the top. - -In steering along the shore to the southward of the Cape, at the -distance of two or three miles, our soundings were from twenty to thirty -fathom, having a chain of rocks between us and the shore, which appeared -at different heights above the water. - -At noon, Cape Table bore N. 20 E. distant about four leagues, and a -small island, which was the southernmost land in sight, bore S. 70 W. at -the distance of about three miles. This island, which the natives call -TEAHOWRAY, I named the ISLAND OF PORTLAND, from its very great -resemblance to Portland, in the English Channel: it lies about a mile -from a point on the main; but there appears to be a ridge of rocks, -extending nearly, if not quite, from one to the other. N. 57 E. two -miles from the south point of Portland, lies a sunken rock, upon which -the sea breaks with great violence. We passed between this rock and the -land, having from seventeen to twenty fathom. - -In sailing along the shore, we saw the natives assembled in great -numbers as well upon Portland island as the main: we could also -distinguish several spots of ground that were cultivated; some seemed to -be fresh turned up, and lay in furrows like ploughed land, and some had -plants upon them in different stages of their growth. We saw also in two -places, high rails upon the ridges of hills, like what we had seen upon -the peninsula at the north-east head of Poverty Bay: as they were ranged -in lines only, and not so as to inclose an area, we could not guess at -their use, and therefore supposed they might be the work of -superstition. - -About noon another canoe appeared, in which were four men; she came -within about a quarter of a mile of us, where the people on board seemed -to perform divers ceremonies: one of them who was in the bow, sometimes -seemed to ask and to offer peace, and sometimes to threaten war, by -brandishing a weapon that he held in his hand: sometimes also he danced, -and sometimes he sung. Tupia talked much to him, but could not persuade -him to come to the ship. - -Between one and two o’clock we discovered land to the westward of -Portland, extending to the southward as far as we could see; and as the -ship was hauling round the south end of the island, she suddenly fell -into shoal water and broken ground: we had indeed always seven fathom or -more, but the soundings were never twice the same, jumping at once from -seven fathom to eleven; in a short time, however, we got clear of all -danger, and had again deep water under us. - -At this time the island lay within a mile of us, making in white cliffs, -and a long spit of low land running from it towards the main. On the -sides of these cliffs sat vast numbers of people, looking at us with a -fixed attention, and it is probable that they perceived some appearance -of hurry and confusion on board, and some irregularity in the working of -the ship, while we were getting clear of the shallow water and broken -ground, from which they might infer that we were alarmed or in distress: -we thought that they wished to take advantage of our situation, for five -canoes were put off with the utmost expedition, full of men, and well -armed: they came so near, and showed so hostile a disposition by -shouting, brandishing their lances, and using threatening gestures, that -we were in some pain for our small boat, which was still employed in -sounding: a musket was therefore fired over them, but finding it did -them no harm, they seemed rather to be provoked than intimidated, and I -therefore fired a four-pounder, charged with grape-shot, wide of them: -this had a better effect; upon the report of the piece they all rose up -and shouted, but instead of continuing the chace, drew altogether, and -after a short consultation, went quietly away. - -Having got round Portland, we hauled in for the land N. W. having a -gentle breeze at N. E. which about five o’clock died away, and obliged -us to anchor; we had one-and-twenty fathom, with a fine sandy bottom: -the south point of Portland bore S. E. ½ S. distant about two leagues, -and a low point on the main bore N. ½ E. In the same direction with this -low point, there runs a deep bay, behind the land of which Cape Table is -the extremity, so as to make this land a peninsula, leaving only a low -narrow neck between that and the main. Of this peninsula, which the -natives call TERAKACO, Cape Table is the north point, and Portland the -south. - -While we lay at anchor, two more canoes came off to us, one armed, and -the other a small fishing boat, with only four men in her; they came so -near that they entered into conversation with Tupia; they answered all -the questions that he asked them with great civility, but could not be -persuaded to come on board; they came near enough, however, to receive -several presents that were thrown to them from the ship, with which they -seemed much pleased, and went away. During the night many fires were -kept upon shore, probably to show us that the inhabitants were too much -upon their guard to be surprised. - -About five o’clock in the morning of the 13th, a breeze springing up -northerly, we weighed, and steered in for the land. The shore here forms -a large bay, of which Portland is the north-east point, and the bay, -that runs behind Cape Table, an arm. This arm I had a great inclination -to examine, because there appeared to be safe anchorage in it, but not -being sure of that, and the wind being right on end, I was unwilling to -spare the time. Four-and-twenty fathom was the greatest depth within -Portland, but the ground was every where clear. The land near the shore -is of a moderate height, with white cliffs and sandy beaches; within, it -rises into mountains, and upon the whole the surface is hilly, for the -most part covered with wood, and to appearance pleasant and fertile. In -the morning nine canoes came after the ship, but whether with peaceable -or hostile intentions we could not tell, for we soon left them behind -us. - -In the evening we stood in for a place that had the appearance of an -opening, but found no harbour; we therefore stood out again, and were -soon followed by a large canoe, with eighteen or twenty men, all armed, -who, though they could not reach us, shouted defiance, and brandished -their weapons, with many gestures of menace and insult. - -In the morning we had a view of the mountains inland, upon which the -snow was still lying: the country near the shore was low and unfit for -culture, but in one place we perceived a patch of somewhat yellow, which -had greatly the appearance of a cornfield, yet was probably nothing more -than some dead flags, which are not uncommon in swampy places: at some -distance we saw groves of trees, which appeared high and tapering, and -being not above two leagues from the south-west cod of the great bay, in -which we had been coasting for the two last days, I hoisted out the -pinnace and long-boat to search for fresh water; but just as they were -about to put off, we saw several boats full of people coming from the -shore, and, therefore, I did not think it safe for them to leave the -ship. About ten o’clock, five of these boats having drawn together, as -if to hold a consultation, made towards the ship, having on board -between eighty and ninety men, and four more followed at some distance, -as if to sustain the attack: when the first five came within about a -hundred yards of the ship, they began to sing their war-song, and -brandishing their pikes, prepared for an engagement. We had now no time -to lose, for if we could not prevent the attack, we should come under -the unhappy necessity of using our fire-arms against them, which we were -very desirous to avoid. Tupia, was therefore, ordered to acquaint them -that we had weapons which, like thunder, would destroy them in a moment; -that we would immediately convince them of their power by directing -their effect so that they should not be hurt; but that if they persisted -in any hostile attempt, we should be obliged to use them for our -defence: a four-pounder, loaded with grape-shot, was then discharged -wide of them, which produced the desired effect; the report, the flash, -and above all, the shot, which spread very far in the water, so -intimidated them, that they began to paddle away with all their might: -Tupia, however, calling after them, and assuring them that if they would -come unarmed, they should be kindly received; the people in one of the -boats put their arms on board of another, and came under the ship’s -stern; we made them several presents, and should certainly have -prevailed upon them to come on board, if the other canoes had not come -up, and again threatened us, by shouting and brandishing their weapons: -at this the people who had come to the ship unarmed, expressed great -displeasure, and soon after they all went away. - -In the afternoon we stood over to the south point of the bay, but not -reaching it before it was dark, we stood off and on all night. At eight -the next morning, being a-breast of the point, several fishing boats -came off to us, and sold us some stinking fish: it was the best they -had, and we were willing to trade with them upon any terms: these people -behaved very well, and we should have parted good friends if it had not -been for a large canoe, with two-and-twenty armed men on board, which -came boldly up along-side of the ship. We soon saw that this boat had -nothing for traffic, yet we gave them two or three pieces of cloth, an -article which they seemed very fond of. I observed that one man had a -black skin thrown over him, somewhat resembling that of a bear, and -being desirous to know what animal was its first owner, I offered him -for it a piece of red baize, and he seemed greatly pleased with the -bargain, immediately pulling off the skin, and holding it up in the -boat; he would not, however, part with it till he had the cloth in his -possession, and as there could be no transfer of property, if with equal -caution I had insisted upon the same condition, I ordered the cloth to -be handed down to him, upon which, with amazing coolness, instead of -sending up the skin, he began to pack up both that and the baize, which -he had received as the purchase of it, in a basket, without paying the -least regard to my demand or remonstrances, and soon after, with the -fishing boats, put off from the ship; when they were at some distance, -they drew together, and after a short consultation returned; the -fishermen offered more fish, which, though good for nothing, was -purchased, and trade was again renewed. Among others who were placed -over the ship’s side to hand up what we bought, was little Tayeto, -Tupia’s boy; and one of the Indians, watching his opportunity, suddenly -seized him, and dragged him down into the canoe; two of them held him -down in the forepart of it, and the others, with great activity, paddled -her off, the rest of the canoes following as fast as they could; upon -this the marines, who were under arms upon deck, were ordered to fire. -The shot was directed to that part of the canoe which was farthest from -the boy, and rather wide of her, being willing rather to miss the rowers -than to hurt him: it happened, however, that one man dropped, upon which -the others quitted their hold of the boy, who instantly leaped into the -water, and swam towards the ship; the large canoe immediately pulled -round and followed him, but some musquets, and a great gun being fired -at her, she desisted from the pursuit. The ship being brought to, a boat -was lowered, and the poor boy taken up unhurt, though so terrified, that -for a time he seemed to be deprived of his senses. Some of the gentlemen -who traced the canoes to shore with their glasses, said, that they saw -three men carried up the beach, who appeared to be either dead, or -wholly disabled by their wounds. - -To the cape off which this unhappy transaction happened, I gave the name -of CAPE KIDNAPPERS. It lies in latitude 39° 43ʹ, and longitude 182° 24ʹ -W., and is rendered remarkable by two white rocks like hay stacks, and -the high white cliffs on each side. It lies S. W. by W. distant thirteen -leagues from the isle of Portland; and between them is the bay of which -it is the south point, and which, in honour of Sir Edward Hawke, then -First Lord of the Admiralty, I called HAWKE’S BAY. We found in it from -twenty-four to seven fathom, and good anchorage. From Cape Kidnappers -the land trends S. S. W., and in this direction we made our run along -the shore, keeping at about a league distance, with a steady breeze and -clear weather. - -As soon as Tayeto recovered from his fright, he brought a fish to Tupia, -and told him that he intended it as an offering to his Eatua, or god, in -gratitude for his escape; Tupia commended his piety, and ordered him to -throw the fish into the sea, which was accordingly done. - -About two o’clock in the afternoon, we passed a small but high white -island lying close to the shore, upon which we saw many houses, boats, -and people. The people we concluded to be fishers, because the island -was totally barren; we saw several people also on shore, in a small bay -upon the main, within the island. At eleven, we brought to till -day-light, and then made sail to the southward, along the shore. About -seven o’clock we passed a high point of land, which lies S. S. W. twelve -leagues from Cape Kidnappers: from this point the land trends -three-fourths of a point more to the westward; at ten, we saw more land -open to the southward, and at noon, the southernmost land that was in -sight, bore S. 39 W. distant eight or ten leagues, and a high bluff -head, with yellowish cliffs, bore W. distant about two miles: the depth -of water was thirty-two fathom. - -In the afternoon we had a fresh breeze at west, and during the night -variable light airs and calms: in the morning a gentle breeze sprung up -between the N. W. and N. E., and having till now stood to the southward, -without seeing any probability of meeting with a harbour, and the -country manifestly altering for the worse, I thought that standing -farther in that direction would be attended with no advantage, but on -the contrary would be a loss of time that might be employed with a -better prospect of success in examining the coast to the northward; -about one, therefore, in the afternoon, I tacked, and stood north, with -a fresh breeze at west. The high bluff head, with yellowish cliffs, -which we were abreast of at noon, I called CAPE TURNAGAIN, because here -we turned back. It lies in latitude 40° 34ʹ S. longitude 182° 55ʹ W., -distant eighteen leagues S. S. W. and S. S. W. ½ W. from Cape -Kidnappers. The land between them is of a very unequal height; in some -places it is lofty next the sea with white cliffs, in others low, with -sandy beaches: the face of the country is not so well clothed with wood -as it is about Hawke’s bay, but looks more like our high downs in -England: it is, however, to all appearance, well inhabited; for as we -stood along the shore, we saw several villages, not only in the valleys, -but on the tops and sides of the hills, and smoke in many other places. -The ridge of mountains which has been mentioned before, extends to the -southward farther than we could see, and was then every where chequered -with snow. At night we saw two fires, inland, so very large, that we -concluded they must have been made to clear the land for tillage; but -however that be, they are a demonstration that the part of the country -where they appeared is inhabited. - -On the 18th, at four o’clock in the morning, Cape Kidnappers bore N. 32 -W. distant two leagues: in this situation we had sixty-two fathom, and -when the cape bore W. by N. distant three or four leagues, we had -forty-five fathom: in the mid-way between the isle of Portland and the -cape we had sixty-five fathom. In the evening, being abreast of the -peninsula, within Portland island, called TERAKAKO, a canoe came off -from that shore, and with much difficulty overtook the ship; there were -on board five people, two of whom appeared to be chiefs, and the other -three servants: the chiefs, with very little invitation, came on board, -and ordered the rest to remain in their canoe. We treated them with -great kindness, and they were not backward in expressing their -satisfaction; they went down into the cabin, and after a short time told -us that they had determined not to go on shore till the next morning. As -the sleeping on board was an honour which we neither expected nor -desired, I remonstrated strongly against it, and told them, that on -their account it would not be proper, as the ship would probably be at a -great distance from where she was then, the next morning: they -persisted, however, in their resolution, and as I found it impossible to -get rid of them without turning them by force out of the ship, I -complied: as a proper precaution, however, I proposed to take their -servants also on board, and hoist their canoe into the ship; they made -no objection, and this was accordingly done. The countenance of one of -these chiefs was the most open and ingenuous of all I have ever seen, -and I very soon gave up every suspicion of his having any sinister -design: they both examined every thing they saw with great curiosity and -attention, and received very thankfully such little presents as we made -them; neither of them, however, could be persuaded either to eat or -drink, but their servants devoured every thing they could get with great -voracity. We found that these men had heard of our kindness and -liberality to the natives who had been on board before, yet we thought -the confidence they placed in us, an extraordinary instance of their -fortitude. At night I brought to till day-light, and then made sail; at -seven in the morning, I brought to again under Cape Table, and sent away -our guests with their canoe, who expressed some surprise at seeing -themselves so far from home, but landed abreast of the ship. At this -time I saw other canoes putting off from the shore, but I stood away to -the northward without waiting for their coming up. - -About three, I passed a remarkable head-land, which I called -GABLE-END-FORELAND, from the very great likeness of the white cliff at -the point, to the gable-end of a house: it is not more remarkable for -its figure, than for a rock which rises like a spire at a little -distance. It lies from Cape Table N. 24 E. distant about twelve leagues. -The shore between them forms a bay, within which lies Poverty Bay, at -the distance of four leagues from the head-land, and eight from the -Cape. At this place three canoes came off to us, and one man came on -board; we gave him some trifles, and he soon returned to his boat, -which, with all the rest, dropped astern. - -In the morning I made sail in shore, in order to look into two bays, -which appeared about two leagues to the northward of the Foreland; the -southernmost I could not fetch, but I anchored in the other about eleven -o’clock. - -Into this bay we were invited by the people on board many canoes, who -pointed to a place where they said there was plenty of fresh water: I -did not find so good a shelter from the sea as I expected; but the -natives who came about us, appearing to be of a friendly disposition, I -was determined to try whether I could not get some knowledge of the -country here before I proceeded farther to the northward. - -In one of the canoes that came about us as soon as we anchored, we saw -two men, who by their habits appeared to be chiefs: one of them was -dressed in a jacket, which was ornamented, after their manner, with -dog’s skin; the jacket of the other was almost covered with small tufts -of red feathers. These men I invited on board, and they entered the ship -with very little hesitation: I gave each of them about four yards of -linen, and a spike-nail; with the linen they were much pleased, but -seemed to set no value upon the nail. We perceived that they knew what -had happened in Poverty Bay, and we had therefore no reason to doubt but -that they would behave peaceably; however, for further security, Tupia -was ordered to tell them for what purpose we came thither, and to assure -them that we would offer them no injury, if they offered none to us. In -the mean time those who remained in the canoes traded with our people -very fairly for what they happened to have with them: the chiefs, who -were old men, staid with us till we had dined, and about two o’clock I -put off with the boats, manned and armed, in order to go on shore in -search of water, and the two chiefs went into the boat with me. The -afternoon was tempestuous, with much rain, and the surf every where ran -so high, that although we rowed almost round the bay, we found no place -where we could land: I determined therefore to return to the ship, which -being intimated to the chiefs, they called to the people on shore, and -ordered a canoe to be sent off for themselves; this was accordingly -done, and they left us, promising to come on board again in the morning, -and bring us some fish and sweet potatoes. - -In the evening, the weather having become fair and moderate, the boats -were again ordered out, and I landed, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. -Solander. We were received with great expressions of friendship by the -natives, who behaved with a scrupulous attention not to give offence. In -particular, they took care not to appear in great bodies: one family, or -the inhabitants of two or three houses only, were generally placed -together, to the number of fifteen or twenty, consisting of men, women, -and children. These little companies sat upon the ground, not advancing -towards us, but inviting us to them, by a kind of beckon, moving one -hand towards the breast. We made them several little presents; and in -our walk round the bay found two small streams of fresh water. This -convenience, and the friendly behaviour of the people, determined me to -stay at least a day, that I might fill some of my empty casks, and give -Mr. Banks an opportunity of examining the natural produce of the -country. - -In the morning of, the 21st, I sent lieutenant Gore on shore, to -superintend the watering, with a strong party of men; and they were soon -followed by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, with Tupia, Tayeto, and four -others. - -The natives sat by our people, and seemed pleased to observe them; but -did not intermix with them: they traded, however, chiefly for cloth, and -after a short time applied to their ordinary occupations, as if no -stranger had been among them. In the forenoon, several of their boats -went out a-fishing, and at dinner time every one repaired to his -respective dwelling; from which, after a certain time, he returned. -These fair appearances encouraged Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander to range -the bay with very little precaution, where they found many plants, and -shot some birds of exquisite beauty. In their walk, they visited several -houses of the natives, and saw something of their manner of life; for -they showed, without any reserve, every thing which the gentlemen -desired to see. They were sometimes found at their meals, which the -approach of the strangers never interrupted. Their food at this season -consisted of fish, with which, instead of bread, they eat the root of a -kind of fern, very like that which grows upon our commons in England. -These roots they scorch over the fire, and then beat with a stick, till -the bark and dry outside fall off; what remains is a soft substance, -somewhat clammy and sweet, not unpleasing to the taste, but mixed with -three or four times its quantity of strings and fibres, which are very -disagreeable; these were swallowed by some, but spit out by the far -greater number, who had baskets under them to receive the rejected part -of what had been chewed, which had an appearance very like that of -tobacco in the same state, in other seasons they have certainly plenty -of excellent vegetables; but no tame animals were seen among them except -dogs, which were very small and ugly. Mr. Banks saw some of their -plantations, where the ground was as well broken down and tilled as even -in the gardens of the most curious people among us: in these spots were -sweet potatoes, coccos or eddas, which are well known and much esteemed -both in the East and West Indies, and some gourds: the sweet potatoes -were planted in small hills, some ranged in rows, and others in -quincunx, all laid by a line with the greatest regularity: the coccos -were planted upon flat land, but none of them yet appeared above ground; -and the gourds were set in small hollows, or dishes, much as in England. -These plantations were of different extent, from one or two acres to -ten: taken together, there appeared to be from 150 to 200 acres in -cultivation in the whole bay, though we never saw an hundred people. -Each district was fenced in, generally with reeds, which were placed so -close together that there was scarcely room for a mouse to creep -between. - -The women were plain, and made themselves more so by painting their -faces with red ochre and oil, which, being generally fresh and wet upon -their cheeks and foreheads, was easily transferred to the noses of those -who thought fit to salute them; and that they were not wholly averse to -such familiarity, the noses of several of our people strongly testified: -they were, however, as great coquets as any of the most fashionable -ladies in Europe, and the young ones as skittish as an unbroken filly: -each of them wore a petticoat, under which there was a girdle, made of -the blades of grass highly perfumed, and to the girdle was fastened a -small bunch of the leaves of some fragrant plant, which served their -modesty as its innermost veil. The faces of the men were not so -generally painted, yet we saw one whose whole body, and even his -garments, were rubbed over with dry ochre, of which he kept a piece -constantly in his hand, and was every minute renewing the decoration in -one part or another, where he supposed it was become deficient. In -personal delicacy they were not equal to our friends at Otaheite, for -the coldness of the climate did not invite them so often to bathe; but -we saw among them one instance of cleanliness in which they exceeded -them, and of which perhaps there is no example in any other Indian -nation. Every house, or every little cluster of three or four houses, -was furnished with a privy, so that the ground was every where clean. -The offals of their food, and other litter, were also piled up in -regular dunghills, which probably they made use of at a proper time for -manure. - -In this decent article of civil economy they were beforehand with one of -the most considerable nations of Europe; for I am credibly informed, -that, till the year 1760, there was no such thing as a privy in Madrid, -the metropolis of Spain, though it is plentifully supplied with water. -Before that time it was the universal practice to throw the ordure out -of the windows, during the night, into the street, where numbers of men -were employed to remove it, with shovels, from the upper parts of the -city to the lower, where it lay till it was dry, and was then carried -away in carts, and deposited without the gates. His present Catholic -Majesty, having determined to free his capital from so gross a nuisance, -ordered, by proclamation, that the proprietor of every house should -build a privy, and that sinks, drains, and common sewers should be made -at the public expense. The Spaniards, though long accustomed to an -arbitrary government, resented this proclamation with great spirit, as -an infringement of the common rights of mankind, and made a vigorous -struggle against its being carried into execution. Every class devised -some objection against it, but the physicians bid the fairest to -interest the king in the preservation of the ancient privileges of his -people; for they remonstrated that if the filth was not, as usual, -thrown into the streets, a fatal sickness would probably ensue, because -the putrescent particles of the air, which such filth attracted, would -then be imbibed by the human body. But this expedient, with every other -that could be thought of, proved unsuccessful, and the popular -discontent then ran so high that it was very near producing an -insurrection; his Majesty, however, at length prevailed, and Madrid is -now as clear as most of the considerable cities in Europe. But many of -the citizens, probably upon the principles advanced by their physicians, -that heaps of filth prevent deleterious particles of air from fixing -upon neighbouring substances, have, to keep their food wholesome, -constructed their privies by the kitchen fire. - -In the evening, all our boats being employed in carrying the water on -board, and Mr. Banks and his company finding it probable that they -should be left on shore after it was dark, by which much time would be -lost, which they were impatient to employ in putting the plants they had -gathered in order, they applied to the Indians for a passage in one of -their canoes: they immediately consented, and a canoe was launched for -their use. They went all on board, being eight in number, but not being -used to a vessel that required so even a balance, they unfortunately -overset her in the surf: no life, however, was lost, but it was thought -advisable that half of them should wait for another turn. Mr. Banks, Dr. -Solander, Tupia, and Tayeto embarked again, and without any further -accident arrived safely at the ship, well pleased with the good nature -of their Indian friends, who cheerfully undertook to carry them a second -time, after having experienced how unfit a freight they were for such a -vessel. - -While these gentlemen were on shore, several of the natives went off to -the ship, and trafficked, by exchanging their cloth for that of -Otaheite: of this barter they were for some time very fond, preferring -the Indian cloth to that of Europe: but before night it decreased in its -value five hundred per cent. Many of these Indians I took on board, and -showed them the ship and her apparatus, at which they expressed equal -satisfaction and astonishment. - -As I found it exceedingly difficult to get water on board on account of -the surf, I determined to stay no longer at this place; on the next -morning, therefore, about five o’clock, I weighed anchor, and put to -sea. - -This bay, which is called by the natives TEGADOO, lies in the latitude -of 38° 10ʹ S.; but as it has nothing to recommend it, a description of -it is unnecessary. - -From this bay I intended to stand on to the northward, but the wind -being right against me, I could make no way. While I was beating about -to windward, some of the natives came on board, and told me, that in a -bay which lay a little to the southward, being the same that I could not -fetch the day I put into Tegadoo, there was excellent water, where the -boats might land without a surf. I thought it better, therefore, to put -into this bay, where I might complete my water, and form farther -connections with the Indians, than to keep the sea. With this view I -bore up for it, and sent in two boats, manned and armed, to examine the -watering-place, who confirming the report of the Indians at their -return, I came to an anchor about one o’clock, in eleven fathom water, -with a fine sandy bottom, the north point of the bay N. by E., and the -south point S. E. The watering-place, which was in a small cove a little -within the south point of the bay, bore S. by E., distant about a mile. -Many canoes came immediately off from the shore, and all traded very -honestly for Otaheite cloth and glass-bottles, of which they were -immoderately fond. - -In the afternoon of the 23d, as soon as the ship was moored, I went on -shore to examine the watering-place, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. -Solander: the boat landed in the cove, without the least surf; the water -was excellent, and conveniently situated; there was plenty of wood close -to high-water mark, and the disposition of the people was in every -respect such as we could wish. - -Having, with Mr. Green, taken several observations of the sun and moon, -the mean result of them gave 180° 47ʹ W. longitude; but, as all the -observations made before exceeded these, I have laid down the coast from -the mean of the whole. At noon, I took the sun’s meridian altitude with -an astronomical quadrant, which was set up at the watering-place, and -found the latitude to be 38° 22ʹ 24ʺ. - -On the 24th, early in the morning, I sent Lieutenant Gore on shore, to -superintend the cutting of wood and filling of water, with a sufficient -number of men for both purposes, and all the marines as a guard. After -breakfast, I went on shore myself, and continued there the whole day. - -Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander also went on shore to gather plants, and in -their walks saw several things worthy of notice. They met with many -houses in the valleys that seemed to be wholly deserted, the people -living on the ridges of the hills in a kind of sheds very slightly -built. As they were advancing in one of these valleys, the hills on each -side of which were very steep, they were suddenly struck with the sight -of a very extraordinary natural curiosity. It was a rock, perforated -through its whole substance, so as to form a rude but stupendous arch or -cavern, opening directly to the sea: this aperture was seventy-five feet -long, twenty-seven broad, and five-and-forty high, commanding a view of -the bay and the hills on the other side, which were seen through it, -and, opening at once upon the view, produced an effect far superior to -any of the contrivances of art. - -As they were returning to the watering-place in the evening, they met an -old man, who detained them some time by showing them the military -exercises of the country with the lance and patoo-patoo, which are all -the weapons in use. The lance is from ten to fourteen feet long, made of -a very hard wood, and sharp at both ends: the patoo-patoo has been -described already: it is about a foot long, made of talc or bone, with -sharp edges, and used as a battle-axe. A post or stake was set up as his -enemy, to which he advanced with a most furious aspect, brandishing his -lance, which he grasped with great firmness; when it was supposed to -have been pierced by his lance, he ran at it with his patoo-patoo, and -falling upon the upper end of it, which was to represent his adversary’s -head, he laid on with great vehemence, striking many blows, any one of -which would probably have split the skull of an ox. From our champion’s -falling upon his mock enemy with the patoo-patoo, after he was supposed -to have been pierced with the lance, our gentlemen inferred, that in the -battles of this country there is no quarter. - -This afternoon, we set up the armourer’s forge, to repair the braces of -the tiller, which had been broken, and went on getting our wood and -water, without suffering the least molestation from the natives; who -came down with different sorts of fish, which we purchased with cloth, -beads, and glass-bottles, as usual. - -On the 25th, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went again on shore; and while -they were searching for plants, Tupia staid with the waterers: among -other Indians who came down to them, was a priest, with whom Tupia -entered into a very learned conversation. In their notions of religion -they seemed to agree very well, which is not often the case between -learned divines on our side of the ocean: Tupia, however, seemed to have -the most knowledge, and he was listened to with great deference and -attention by the other. In the course of this conversation, after the -important points of divinity had been settled, Tupia enquired if it was -their practice to eat men, to which they answered in the affirmative; -but said, that they eat only their enemies who were slain in battle. - -On the 26th, it rained all day, so that none of us could go ashore; and -very few of the Indians came either to the watering-place or the ship. - -On the 27th, I went with Dr. Solander to examine the bottom of the bay; -but though we went ashore at two places we met with little worth notice. -The people behaved very civilly, showing us every thing that we -expressed a desire to see. Among other trifling curiosities which Dr. -Solander purchased of them, was a boy’s top, shaped exactly like those -which children play with in England; and they made signs that to make it -spin it was to be whipped. Mr. Banks in the mean time went ashore at the -watering-place, and climbed a hill which stood at a little distant to -see a fence of poles, which we had observed from the ship, and which had -been much the subject of speculation. The hill was extremely steep, and -rendered almost inaccessible by wood; yet he reached the place, near -which he found many houses that for some reason had been deserted by -their inhabitants. The poles appeared to be about sixteen feet high; -they were placed in two rows, with a space of about six feet between -them, and the poles in each row were about ten feet distant from each -other. The lane between them was covered by sticks, that were set up -sloping towards each other from the top of the poles on each side, like -the roof of a house. This rail-work, with a ditch that was parallel to -it, was carried about a hundred yards down the hill in a kind of curve; -but for what purpose we could not guess. - -The Indians, at the watering-place, at our request, entertained us with -their war-song, in which the women joined, with the most horrid -distortions of countenance, rolling their eyes, thrusting out their -tongues, and often heaving loud and deep sighs; though all was done in -very good time. - -On the 28th, we went ashore upon an island that lies to the left hand of -the entrance of the bay, where we saw the largest canoe that we had yet -met with: she was sixty-eight feet and a half long, five broad, and -three feet six high; she had a sharp bottom, consisting of three trunks -of trees hollowed, of which that in the middle was the longest: the side -planks were sixty-two feet long, in one piece, and were not despicably -carved in bas-relief; the head also was adorned with carving still more -richly. Upon this island there was a larger house than any we had yet -seen; but it seemed unfinished, and was full of chips. The wood-work was -squared so even and smooth, that we made no doubt of their having among -them very sharp tools. The sides of the posts were carved in a masterly -style, though after their whimsical taste, which seems to prefer spiril -lines and distorted faces: as these carved posts appeared to have been -brought from some other place, such work is probably of great value -among them. - -At four o’clock in the morning of the 29th, having got on board our wood -and water, and a large supply of excellent celery, with which the -country abounds, and which proved a powerful antiscorbutic, I unmoored -and put to sea. - -This bay is called by the natives TOLAGA; it is moderately large, and -has from seven to thirteen fathom, with a clean sandy bottom and good -anchorage; and is sheltered from all winds except the north-east. It -lies in latitude 38° 22ʹ S. and four leagues and a half to the north of -Gable-end Foreland. On the south point lies a small but high island, so -near the main as not to be distinguished from it. Close to the north end -of the island, at the entrance into the bay, are two high rocks; one is -round, like a corn-stack, but the other is long, and perforated in -several places, so that the openings appear like the arches of a bridge. -Within these rocks is the cove where we cut wood, and filled our -water-casks. Off the north point of the bay is a pretty high rocky -island; and about a mile without it are some rocks and breakers. The -variation of the compass here is 14° 31ʹ E., and the tide flows at the -full and change of the moon, about six o’clock, and rises and falls -perpendicularly from five to six feet: whether the flood comes from the -southward or the northward I have not been able to determine. - -We got nothing here by traffic but a few fish, and some sweet potatoes, -except a few trifles, which we considered merely as curiosities. We saw -no four-footed animals, nor the appearance of any, either tame or wild, -except dogs and rats, and these were very scarce: the people eat the -dogs, like our friends at Otaheite; and adorn their garments with the -skins, as we do ours with fur and ermine. I climbed many of the hills, -hoping to get a view of the country, but I could see nothing from the -top except higher hills, in a boundless succession. The ridges of these -hills produce little besides fern; but the sides are most luxuriantly -clothed with wood, and verdure of various kinds, with little plantations -intermixed. In the woods, we found trees of above twenty different -sorts, and carried specimens of each on board; but there was nobody -among us to whom they were not altogether unknown. The tree which we cut -for firing was somewhat like our maple, and yielded a whitish gum. We -found another sort of it of a deep yellow, which we thought might be -useful in dyeing. We found also one cabbage-tree, which we cut down for -the cabbages. The country abounds with plants, and the woods with birds, -in an endless variety, exquisitely beautiful, and of which none of us -had the least knowledge. The soil both of the hills and valleys is light -and sandy, and very fit for the production of all kinds of roots; though -we saw none except sweet potatoes and yams. - - - - - CHAP. III. - -THE RANGE FROM TOLAGA TO MERCURY BAY, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF MANY INCIDENTS - THAT HAPPENED BOTH ON BOARD AND ASHORE: A DESCRIPTION OF SEVERAL VIEWS - EXHIBITED BY THE COUNTRY, AND OF THE HEPPAHS, OR FORTIFIED VILLAGES OF - THE INHABITANTS. - - -On Monday, the 30th, about half an hour after one o’clock, having made -sail again to the northward for about ten hours, with a light breeze, I -hauled round a small island which lay east one mile from the north-east -point of the land: from this place I found the land trend away N. W. by -W. and W. N. W. as far as I could see, this point being the easternmost -land on the whole coast. I gave it the name of EAST CAPE, and I called -the island that lies off it EAST ISLAND; it is of a small circuit, high -and round, and appears white and barren: the cape is high, with white -cliffs, and lies in latitude 37° 42ʹ 30ʺ S. and longitude 181° W. The -land from Tolaga Bay to East Cape is of a moderate but unequal height, -forming several small bays, in which are sandy beaches: of the inland -country we could not see much, the weather being cloudy and hazy. The -soundings were from twenty to thirty fathom, at the distance of about a -league from the shore. After we had rounded the Cape, we saw in our run -along the shore a great number of villages, and much cultivated land; -the country in general appeared more fertile than before, and was low -near the sea, but hilly within. At six in the evening, being four -leagues to the westward of East Cape, we passed a bay which was first -discovered by Lieutenant Hicks, and which, therefore, I called HICKS’S -BAY. At eight in the evening, being eight leagues to the westward of the -Cape, and three or four miles from the shore, I shortened sail, and -brought to for the night, having at this time a fresh gale at S. S. E. -and squally; but it soon became moderate, and at two in the morning we -made sail again to the S. W. as the land now trended; and at eight -o’clock in the morning saw land, which made like an island, bearing -west, the south-westernmost part of the main bearing south-west; and -about nine no less than five canoes came off, in which were more than -forty men, all armed with their country pikes and battle-axes, shouting, -and threatening an attack; this gave us great uneasiness, and was, -indeed, what we did not expect; for we hoped, that the report both of -our power and clemency had spread to a greater extent. When one of these -canoes had almost reached the ship, another of an immense size, the -largest we had yet seen, crowded with people who were also armed, put -off from the shore, and came up at a great rate: as it approached it -received signals from the canoe that was nearest to the ship; and we -could see that it had sixteen paddles on a side, beside people that sat, -and others that stood in a row from stem to stern, being in all about -sixty men: as they made directly to the ship, we were desirous of -preventing an attack, by showing what we could do; and, therefore, fired -a gun, loaded with grape-shot, a-head of them: this made them stop, but -not retreat; a round-shot was then fired over them, and upon seeing it -fall, they seized their paddles and made towards the shore with such -precipitation that they seemed scarcely to allow themselves time to -breathe. In the evening, three or four more canoes came off unarmed; but -they would not venture within a musket-shot of the vessel. The Cape off -which we had been threatened with hostilities I called, from the hasty -retreat of the enemy, CAPE RUNAWAY. It lies in latitude 37° 32ʹ; -longitude 181° 48ʹ. In this day’s run, we found that the land, which -made like an island in the morning, bearing west, was so; and we gave it -the name of WHITE ISLAND. - -At day-break, on the 1st of November, we counted no less than -five-and-forty canoes that were coming from the shore towards the ship: -seven of them came up with us, and after some conversation with Tupia, -sold us some lobsters and mussels, and two conger eels. These people -traded pretty fairly; but when they were gone, some others came off from -another place, who began also to trade fairly: but after some time they -took what was handed down to them, without making any return; one of -them who had done so, upon being threatened, began to laugh, and with -many marks of derision set us at defiance, at the same time putting off -the canoe from the ship: a musket was then fired over his head, which -brought him back in a more serious mood, and trade went on with great -regularity. At length, when the cabin and gun-room had got as much as -they wanted, the men were allowed to come to the gangway, and trade for -themselves. Unhappily the same care was not taken to prevent frauds as -had been taken before, so that the Indians, finding that they could -cheat with impunity, grew insolent again, and proceeded to take greater -liberties. One of the canoes, having sold every thing on board, pulled -forward, and the people that were in her seeing some linen hang over the -ship’s side to dry, one of them, without any ceremony, untied it, and -put it up in his bundle: he was immediately called to, and required to -return it; instead of which, he let his canoe drop astern, and laughed -at us: a musket was fired over his head, which did not put a stop to his -mirth; another was then fired at him with small shot, which struck him -upon the back; he shrunk a little when the shot hit him, but did not -regard it more than one of our men would have done the stroke of a -rattan: he continued with great composure to pack up the linen that he -had stolen. All the canoes now dropped astern about a hundred yards, and -all set up their song of defiance, which they continued till the ship -was distant from them about four hundred yards. As they seemed to have -no design to attack us, I was not willing to do them any hurt; yet I -thought their going off in a bravado might have a bad effect when it -should be reported ashore. To show them, therefore, that they were still -in our power, though very much beyond the reach of any missile weapon -with which they were acquainted, I gave the ship a yaw, and fired a -four-pounder so as to pass near them. The shot happened to strike the -water and rise several times at a great distance beyond the canoes: this -struck them with terror, and they paddled away without once looking -behind them. - -About two in the afternoon, we saw a pretty high island bearing west -from us; and at five, saw more islands and rocks to the westward of -that. We hauled our wind in order to go without them, but could not -weather them before it was dark. I, therefore, bore up, and ran between -them and the main. At seven, I was close under the first, from which a -large double canoe, or rather two canoes lashed together at the distance -of about a foot, and covered with boards so as to make a deck, put off, -and made sail for the ship: this was the first vessel of the kind that -we had seen since we left the South Sea islands. When she came near, the -people on board entered very freely into conversation with Tupia, and we -thought showed a friendly disposition; but when it was just dark, they -ran their canoe close to the ship’s side, and threw in a volley of -stones, after which they paddled away. - -We learnt from Tupia, that the people in the canoe called the island -which we were under MOWTOHORA; it is but of a small circuit, though -high, and lies six miles from the main; on the south side is anchorage -in fourteen fathom water. Upon the main land S. W. by W. of this island, -and apparently at no great distance from the sea, is a high round -mountain, which I called MOUNT EDGECUMBE: it stands in the middle of a -large plain, and is, therefore, the more conspicuous; latitude 37° 59ʹ, -longitude 183° 7ʹ. - -In standing westward, we suddenly shoaled our water from seventeen to -ten fathom; and knowing that we were not far from the small islands and -rocks which we had seen before dark, and which I intended to have passed -before I brought to for the night, I thought it more prudent to tack, -and spend the night under Mowtohora, where I knew there was no danger. -It was, indeed, happy for us that we did so; for in the morning, after -we had made sail to the westward, we discovered ahead of us several -rocks, some of which were level with the surface of the water, and some -below it: they lay N. N. E. from Mount Edgecumbe, one league and a half -distant from the island Mowtohora, and about nine miles from the main. -We passed between these rocks and the main, having from ten to seven -fathom water. - -This morning, many canoes and much people were seen along the shore: -several of the canoes followed us, but none of them could reach us, -except one with a sail, which proved to be the same that had pelted us -the night before. The people on board again entered into conversation -with Tupia; but we expected another volley of their ammunition, which -was not, indeed, dangerous to any thing but the cabin windows. They -continued abreast of the ship about an hour, and behaved very peaceably; -but at last the salute which we expected was given: we returned it by -firing a musket over them, and they immediately dropped astern and left -us, perhaps rather satisfied with having given a test of their courage -by twice insulting a vessel so much superior to their own, than -intimidated by the shot. - -At half an hour after ten, we passed between a low flat island and the -main: the distance from one to the other was about four miles, and the -depth of water from ten to twelve fathom. The main land between this -flat island and Mowtohora is of a moderate height, but level, pretty -clear of wood, and full of plantations and villages. The villages, which -were larger than any we had yet seen, were built upon eminences near the -sea, and fortified on the land side by a bank and ditch, with a high -paling within it, which was carried all round: beside a bank, ditch, and -pallisadoes, some of them appeared to have outworks. Tupia had a notion -that the small inclosure of pallisadoes, and a ditch that we had seen -before, were morais or places of worship; but we were of opinion that -they were forts, and concluded that these people had neighbouring -enemies, and were always exposed to hostile attacks. - -At two o’clock we passed a small high island, lying four miles from a -high round head upon the main. From this head the land trends N. W. as -far as can be seen, and has a rugged and hilly appearance. As the -weather was hazy, and the wind blew fresh on the shore, we hauled off -for the weathermost island in sight, which bore from us N. N. E., -distant about six or seven leagues. - -Under this island, which I have called the MAYOR, we spent the night. At -seven in the morning it bore S. 47 E., distant six leagues, and a -cluster of small islands and rocks bore N. ½ E., distant one league, to -which I gave the name of the COURT OF ALDERMEN. They lie in the compass -of about half a league every way, and five leagues from the main, -between which and them lie other islands, most of them barren rocks, of -which there is great variety: some of them are as small in compass as -the Monument of London, but rise to a much greater height, and some of -them are inhabited. They lie in latitude 36° 57ʹ, and at noon bore S. 60 -E., distant three or four leagues; and a rock like a castle, lying not -far from the main, bore N. 40 W., at the distance of one league. The -country that we passed the night before appeared to be well inhabited, -many towns were in sight, and some hundreds of large canoes lay under -them upon the beach; but this day, after having sailed about fifteen -leagues, it appeared to be barren and desolate. As far as we had yet -coasted this country from Cape Turnagain, the people acknowledged one -chief, whom they called TERATU, and to whose residence they pointed, in -a direction that we thought to be very far inland, but afterwards found -to be otherwise. - -About one o’clock, three canoes came off to us from the main, with -one-and-twenty men on board. The construction of these vessels appeared -to be more simple than that of any we had seen, they being nothing more -than trunks of a single tree hollowed by fire, without any convenience -or ornament. The people on board were almost naked, and appeared to be -of a browner complexion; yet naked and despicable as they were, they -sung their song of defiance, and seemed to denounce against us -inevitable destruction: they remained, however, some time out of stone’s -throw, and then venturing nearer, with less appearance of hostility, one -of our men went to the ship’s side, and was about to hand them a rope; -this courtesy, however, they thought fit to return by throwing a lance -at him, which having missed him, they immediately threw another into the -ship: upon this a musket was fired over them, which at once sent them -away. - -About two, we saw a large opening, or inlet, for which we bore up; we -had now forty-one fathom water, which gradually decreased to nine, at -which time we were one mile and a half distant from a high towered rock -which lay near the south point of the inlet: this rock, and the -northernmost of the Court of Alderman being in one, bearing S. 61 E. - -About seven in the evening we anchored in seven fathom, a little within -the south entrance of the bay: to this place we were accompanied by -several canoes and people like those we had seen last, and for some time -they behaved very civilly. While they were hovering about us, a bird was -shot from the ship, as it was swimming upon the water: at this they -showed less surprise than we expected, and taking up the bird, they tied -it to a fishing line that was towing astern; as an acknowledgment for -this favour, we gave them a piece of cloth: but notwithstanding this -effect of our fire-arms, and this interchange of civilities, as soon as -it grew dark, they sung their war-song, and attempted to tow away the -buoy of the anchor. Two or three muskets were then fired over them, but -this seemed rather to make them angry than afraid, and they went away, -threatening that to-morrow they would return with more force, and be the -death of us all; at the same time sending off a boat, which they told us -was going to another part of the bay for assistance. - -There was some appearance of generosity, as well as courage, in -acquainting us with the time when they intended to make their attack, -but they forfeited all credit which this procured them, by coming -secretly upon us in the night, when they certainly hoped to find us -asleep: upon approaching the ship, they found themselves mistaken, and -therefore retired without speaking a word, supposing that they were too -early; after some time, they came a second time, and being again -disappointed, they retired as silently as before. - -In the morning, at day-break, they prepared to effect by force what they -had in vain attempted by stealth and artifice: no less than twelve -canoes came against us with about a hundred and fifty men, all armed -with pikes, lances, and stones. As they could do nothing till they came -very near the ship, Tupia was ordered to expostulate with them, and if -possible divert them from their purpose: during the conversation, they -appeared to be sometimes friendly and sometimes otherwise; at length, -however, they began to trade, and we offered to purchase their weapons, -which some of them consented to sell: they sold two very fairly, but -having received what had been agreed upon for the purchase of a third, -they refused to send it up, but offered it for a second price; a second -was sent down, but the weapon was still detained, and a demand made of a -third; this being refused with some expressions of displeasure and -resentment, the offender, with many ludicrous tokens of contempt and -defiance, paddled his canoe off a few yards from the ship. As I intended -to continue in this place five or six days, in order to make an -observation of the transit of Mercury, it was absolutely necessary, in -order to prevent future mischief, to show these people that we were not -to be treated ill with impunity; some small shot were therefore fired at -the thief, and a musket ball through the bottom of his boat: upon this -it was paddled to about a hundred yards’ distance, and to our great -surprise the people in the other canoes took not the least notice of -their wounded companion, though he bled very much, but returned to the -ship, and continued to trade with the most perfect indifference and -unconcern. They sold us many more of their weapons, without making any -other attempt to defraud us, for a considerable time; at last, however, -one of them thought fit to paddle away with two different pieces of -cloth which had been given for the same weapon: when he had got about an -hundred yards’ distance, and thought himself secure of his prize, a -musket was fired after him, which fortunately struck the boat just at -the water’s edge, and made two holes in her side; this only incited them -to ply their paddles with greater activity, and the rest of the canoes -also made off with the utmost expedition. As the last proof of our -superiority, therefore, we fired a round shot over them, and not a boat -stopped till they got on shore. - -About ten o’clock, I went with two boats to sound the bay, and look out -for a more convenient anchoring-place, the master being in one boat and -myself in the other. We pulled first over to the north shore, from which -some canoes came out to meet us; as we advanced, however, they retired, -inviting us to follow them; but seeing them all armed, I did not think -it proper to comply, but went towards the head of the bay, where I -observed a village upon a very high point, fortified in the manner that -has been already described, and having fixed upon an anchoring-place not -far from where the ship lay, I returned on board. - -At three o’clock in the afternoon, I weighed, run in nearer to the -shore, and anchored in four fathom and an half water, with a soft sandy -bottom, the south point of the bay bearing E. distant one mile, and a -river which the boats can enter at low water S. S. E., distant a mile -and an half. - -In the morning, the natives came off again to the ship, and we had the -satisfaction to observe that their behaviour was very different from -what it had been yesterday: among them was an old man, whom we had -before remarked for his prudence and honesty: his name was TOIAVA, and -he seemed to be a person of a superior rank; in the transactions of -yesterday morning he had behaved with great propriety and good sense, -lying in a small canoe, always near the ship, and treating those on -board as if he neither intended a fraud, nor suspected an injury: with -some persuasion this man and another came on board, and ventured into -the cabin, where I presented each of them with a piece of English cloth -and some spike nails. They told us that the Indians were now very much -afraid of us, and on our part we promised friendship, if they would -behave peaceably, desiring only to purchase what they had to sell upon -their own terms. - -After the natives had left us, I went with the pinnace and long boat -into the river with a design to haul the seine, and sent the master in -the yawl to sound the bay and dredge for fish. The Indians, who were on -one side of the river, expressed their friendship by all the signs they -could devise, beckoning us to land among them; but we chose to go ashore -on the other side, as the situation was more convenient for hauling the -seine and shooting birds, of which we saw great numbers of various -kinds: the Indians, with much persuasion, about noon, ventured over to -us. With the seine we had very little success, catching only a few -mullets, neither did we get any thing by the trawl or the dredge, except -a few shells; but we shot several birds, most of them resembling -sea-pies, except that they had black plumage, and red bills and feet. -While we were absent with our guns, the people who staid by the boats -saw two of the Indians quarrel and fight: they began the battle with -their lances, but some old men interposed and took them away, leaving -them to decide the difference, like Englishmen, with their fists: they -boxed with great vigour and obstinacy for some time, but by degrees all -retired behind a little hill, so that our people could not see the event -of the combat. - -In the morning the long-boat was sent again to traul in the bay, and an -officer, with the marines, and a party of men, to cut wood and haul the -seine. The Indians on shore appeared very peaceable and submissive, and -we had reason to believe that their habitations were at a considerable -distance, for we saw no houses, and found that they slept under the -bushes: the bay is probably a place to which they frequently resort in -parties to gather shell-fish, of which it affords incredible plenty; for -wherever we went, whether upon the hills or in the valleys, the woods or -the plains, we saw vast heaps of shells, often many waggon-loads -together, some appearing to be very old, and others recent. We saw no -cultivation in this place, which had a desolate and barren appearance; -the tops of the hills were green, but nothing grew there, except a large -kind of fern, the roots of which the natives had got together in large -quantities, in order to carry away with them. In the evening Mr. Banks -walked up the river, which, at the mouth, looked fine and broad, but at -the distance of about two miles was not deep enough to cover the foot; -and the country inland was still more barren than at the sea side. The -seine and dredge were not more successful to-day than yesterday, but the -Indians in some measure compensated for the disappointment by bringing -us several baskets of fish, some dry, and some fresh dressed; it was not -indeed of the best, but I ordered it all to be bought for the -encouragement of trade. - -On the 7th, the weather was so bad that none of us left the ship, nor -did any of the Indians come on board. - -On the 8th, I sent a party of men on shore to wood and water; and in the -mean time many canoes came off, in one of which was our friend Toiava; -soon after he was alongside of the ship, he saw two canoes coming from -the opposite side of the bay, upon which he hasted back again to the -shore with all his canoes, telling us that he was afraid of the people -who were coming: this was a farther proof that the people of this -country were perpetually committing hostilities against each other. In a -short time, however, he returned, having discovered that the people who -had alarmed him were not the same that he had supposed. The natives that -came to the ship this morning sold us, for a few pieces of cloth, as -much fish of the mackerel kind as served the whole ship’s company, and -they were as good as ever were eaten. At noon, this day, I observed the -sun’s meridional zenith distance by an astronomical quadrant, which gave -the latitude 36° 47ʹ 43ʺ within the south entrance of the bay. - -Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went on shore and collected a great variety -of plants, altogether unknown, and not returning till the evening, had -an opportunity of observing in what manner the Indians disposed -themselves to pass the night. They had no shelter but a few shrubs; the -women and the children were ranged innermost, or farthest from the sea; -the men lay in a kind of half circle round them, and their arms were set -up against the trees close by them, in a manner which showed that they -were afraid of an attack by some enemy not far distant. It was also -discovered that they acknowledged neither Teratu, nor any other person -as their king: as in this particular they differed from all the people -that we had seen upon other parts of the coast, we thought it possible -that they might be a set of outlaws, in a state of rebellion against -Teratu, and in that case they might have no settled habitations, or -cultivated land in any part of the country. - -On the 9th, at day-break, a great number of canoes came on board, loaded -with mackerel of two sorts, one exactly the same with those caught in -England, and the other somewhat different: we imagined the people had -taken a large shoal, and brought us an overplus which they could not -consume; for they sold them at a very low rate. They were, however, very -welcome to us; at eight o’clock, the ship had more fish on board than -all her people could eat in three days; and before night, the quantity -was so much increased, that every man who could get salt, cured as many -as would last him a month. - -After an early breakfast, I went ashore, with Mr. Green and proper -instruments, to observe the transit of Mercury, Mr. Banks and Dr. -Solander being of the party; the weather had for some time been very -thick, with much rain, but this day was so favourable that not a cloud -intervened during the whole transit. The observation of the ingress was -made by Mr. Green alone, while I was employed in taking the sun’s -altitude to ascertain the time. It came on at 7^h 20ʹ 58ʺ apparent time: -according to Mr. Green’s observation, the internal contact was at 12^h -8ʹ 58ʺ, the external at 12^h 9ʹ 55ʺ P. M. And according to mine, the -internal contact was at 12^h 8ʹ 54ʺ, and the external 12^h 9ʹ 48ʺ; the -latitude of the place of observation was 30° 48ʹ 5-½ʺ. The latitude -observed at noon was 36° 48ʹ 28ʺ. The mean of this and yesterday’s -observation gives 36° 48ʹ 5-½ʺ S. the latitude of the place of -observation; the variation of the compass was 11° 9ʹ E. - -About noon, we were alarmed by the firing of a great gun from the ship; -Mr. Gore, my second lieutenant, was at this time commanding officer on -board, and the account that he gave was this. While some small canoes -were trading with the people, two very large ones came up, full of men, -one of them having on board forty-seven, all armed with pikes, darts, -and stones, and apparently with a hostile intention: they appeared to be -strangers, and to be rather conscious of superiority over us by their -numbers, than afraid of any weapons which could give us the superiority -over them: no attack however was made; probably because they learnt from -the people in the other canoes, with whom they immediately entered into -conference, what kind of an enemy they had to deal with: after a little -time, they began to trade, some of them offering their arms, and one of -them a square piece of cloth, which makes a part of their dress, called -a _Haahow_; several of the weapons were purchased, and Mr. Gore having -agreed for a Haahow, sent down the price, which was a piece of British -cloth, and expected his purchase: but the Indian, as soon as he had got -Mr. Gore’s cloth in his possession, refused to part with his own, and -put off the canoe: upon being threatened for this fraud, he and his -companions began to sing their war-song in defiance, and shook their -paddles: still however they began no attack, only defying Mr. Gore to -take any remedy in his power, which so provoked him that he levelled a -musket loaded with ball at the offender, while he was holding the cloth -in his hand, and shot him dead. It would have been happy, if the effect -of a few small shot had been tried upon this occasion, which, upon some -others, had been successful. - -When the Indian dropped, all the canoes put off to some distance; but as -they did not go away, it was thought they might still meditate an -attack. To secure therefore a safe passage for the boat, which it was -necessary to send on shore, a round shot was fired over their heads, -which effectually answered the purpose, and put them all to flight. When -an account of what had happened was brought ashore, our Indians were -alarmed, and drawing all together, retreated in a body. After a short -time, however, they returned, having heard a more particular account of -the affair; and intimated that they thought the man who had been killed -deserved his fate. - -A little before sunset the Indians retired to eat their supper, and we -went with them to be spectators of the repast; it consisted of fish of -different kinds, among which were lobsters, and some birds, of a species -unknown to us: these were either roasted or baked; to roast them, they -fastened them upon a small stick, which was stuck up in the ground -inclining towards their fire; and to bake them, they put them into a -hole in the ground, with hot stones, in the same manner as the people of -Otaheite. - -Among the natives that were assembled upon this occasion, we saw a -woman, who, after their manner, was mourning for the death of her -relation: she sat upon the ground near the rest, who, one only excepted, -seemed not at all to regard her: the tears constantly trickled down her -cheeks, and she repeated in a low, but very mournful voice, words, which -even Tupia did not at all understand: at the end of every sentence she -cut her arms, her face, or her breast with a shell that she held in her -hand, so that she was almost covered with blood, and was indeed one of -the most affecting spectacles that can be conceived. The cuts, however, -did not appear to be so deep as are sometimes made upon similar -occasions, if we may judge by the scars which we saw upon the arms, -thighs, breasts, and cheeks of many of them, which we were told were the -remains of wounds which they had inflicted upon themselves as -testimonies of their affection and sorrow. - -The next day, I went with two boats, accompanied by Mr. Banks and the -other gentlemen, to examine a large river that empties itself into the -head of the bay. We rowed about four or five miles up, and could have -gone much farther, if the weather had been favourable. It was here wider -than at the mouth, and divided into many streams by small flat islands, -which are covered with mangroves, and overflowed at high water. From -these trees exudes a viscous substance which very much resembles resin: -we found it first in small lumps upon the sea-beach, and now saw it -sticking to the trees, by which we knew whence it came. We landed on the -east side of the river, where we saw a tree upon which several shags had -built their nests, and here therefore we determined to dine; twenty of -the shags were soon killed, and being broiled upon the spot, afforded us -an excellent meal. We then went upon the hills from whence I thought I -saw the head of the river. The shore on each side, as well as the -islands in the middle, were covered with mangroves; and the sandbanks -abounded in cockles and clams: in many places there were rock-oysters, -and every where plenty of wild fowl, principally shags, ducks, curlieus, -and the sea-pie, that has been described before. We also saw fish in the -river, but of what kind we could not discover: the country on the east -side of this river is for the most part barren, and destitute of wood; -but on the west it has a better aspect, and in some places is adorned -with trees, but has in no part the appearance of cultivation. In the -entrance of the river, and for two or three miles up, there is good -anchoring in four and five fathom water, and places very convenient for -laying a vessel on shore, where the tide rises and falls seven feet at -the full and change of the moon. We could not determine, whether any -considerable stream of fresh water came into this river out of the -country; but we saw a number of small rivulets issue from the adjacent -hills. Near the mouth of this river, on the east side, we found a little -Indian village, consisting of small temporary sheds, where we landed, -and were received by the people with the utmost kindness and -hospitality: they treated us with a flat shell fish of a most delicious -taste, somewhat like a cockle, which we eat hot from the coals. Near -this place is a high point or peninsula, projecting into the river, and -upon it are the remains of a fort, which they call _Eppah_, or _Heppah_. -The best engineer in Europe could not have chosen a situation better -adapted to enable a small number to defend themselves against a greater. -The steepness of the cliffs renders it wholly inaccessible from the -water which incloses it on three sides; and, to the land, it is -fortified by a ditch, and a bank raised on the inside: from the top of -the bank to the bottom of the ditch, is two and twenty feet; the ditch -on the outside is fourteen feet deep, and its breadth is in proportion. -The whole seemed to have been executed with great judgment; and there -had been a row of pickets or pallisadoes, both on the top of the bank -and along the brink of the ditch on the outside; those on the outside -had been driven very deep into the ground, and were inclined towards the -ditch, so as to project over it; but of these the thickest posts only -were left, and upon them there were evident marks of fire, so that the -place had probably been taken and destroyed by an enemy. If any occasion -should make it necessary for a ship to winter here, or stay any time, -tents might be built in this place, which is sufficiently spacious, with -great convenience, and might easily be made impregnable to the whole -country. - -[Illustration: _A Fortified Town or Village, called a Hippah at -Tolaga._] - -[Illustration: _A Natural Arch or Perforated Rock._] - -On the eleventh, there was so much wind and rain that no canoe came off; -but the long-boat was sent to fetch oysters from one of the beds which -had been discovered the day before: the boat soon returned, deeply -laden, and the oysters, which were as good as ever came from Colchester, -and about the same size, were laid down under the booms, and the ship’s -company did nothing but eat them from the time they came on board till -night, when, as may reasonably be supposed, great part of them were -expended; this, however, gave us no concern, as we knew that not the -boat only, but the ship, might have been loaded, almost in one tide, as -the beds are dry at half ebb. - -In the morning of Sunday the 12th, two canoes came off full of people -whom we had never seen before, but who appeared to have heard of us by -the caution which they used in approaching us. As we invited them to -come alongside with all the tokens of friendship that we could show, -they ventured up, and two of them came on board; the rest traded very -fairly for what they had: a small canoe also came from the other side of -the bay, and sold us some very large fish, which they gave us to -understand they would have brought yesterday, having caught them the day -before, but that the wind was so high they could not venture to sea. - -[Illustration: _The Inside of a Hippah in New Zealand._] - -After breakfast, I went with the pinnace and yawl, accompanied by Mr. -Banks and Dr. Solander, over to the north side of the bay, to take a -view of the country, and two fortified villages which we had discovered -at a distance. We landed near the smallest of them, the situation of -which was the most beautifully romantic that can be imagined; it was -built upon a small rock, detached from the main, and surrounded at high -water. The whole body of this rock was perforated by an hollow or arch, -which possessed much the largest part of it; the top of the arch was -above sixty feet perpendicular above the sea, which at high water flowed -through the bottom of it: the whole summit of the rock above the arch -was fenced round after their manner; but the area was not large enough -to contain more than five or six houses: it was accessible only by one -very narrow and steep path, by which the inhabitants, at our approach, -came down, and invited us into the place; but we refused, intending to -visit a much more considerable fort of the same kind at about a mile’s -distance. We made some presents however to the women, and in the mean -time we saw the inhabitants of the town which we were going to, coming -towards us in a body, men, women, and children, to the number of about -one hundred: when they came near enough to be heard, they waved their -hands and called out _Horomai_; after which they sat down among the -bushes near the beach; these ceremonies we were told were certain signs -of their friendly disposition. We advanced to the place where they were -sitting, and when we came up, made them a few presents, and asked leave -to visit their Heppah; they consented with joy in their countenances, -and immediately led the way. It is called WHARRETOUWA, and is situated -upon a high promontory or point, which projects into the sea, on the -north side, and near the head of the bay: two sides of it are washed by -the sea, and these are altogether inaccessible; two other sides are to -the land: up one of them, which is very steep, lies the avenue from the -beach; the other is flat and open to the country upon the hill, which is -a narrow ridge: the whole is inclosed by a pallisade about ten feet -high, consisting of strong pales bound together with withes. The weak -side next the land is also defended by a double ditch, the innermost of -which has a bank and an additional pallisade: the inner pallisades are -upon the bank next the town, but at such a distance from the top of the -bank as to leave room for men to walk and use their arms, between them -and the inner ditch; the outermost pallisades are between the two -ditches, and driven obliquely into the ground, so that their upper ends -incline over the inner ditch: the depth of this ditch, from the bottom -to the top or crown of the bank, is four-and-twenty feet. Close within -the innermost pallisade is a stage, twenty feet high, forty feet long, -and six broad; it is supported by strong posts, and is intended as a -station for those who defend the place, from which they may annoy the -assailants by darts and stones, heaps of which lay ready for use. -Another stage of the same kind commands the steep avenue from the beach, -and stands also within the pallisade; on this side of the hill, there -are some little outworks and huts, not intended as advanced posts, but -as the habitations of people who, for want of room, could not be -accommodated within the works, but who were, notwithstanding, desirous -of placing themselves under their protection. The pallisades, as has -been observed already, run round the whole brow of the hill, as well -towards the sea as towards the land; but the ground within having -originally been a mount, they have reduced it not to one level, but to -several, rising in stages one above the other, like an amphitheatre, -each of which is inclosed within its separate pallisade; they -communicate with each other by narrow lanes, which might easily be stopt -up, so that if an enemy should force the outward pallisade, he would -have others to carry before the place could be wholly reduced, supposing -these places to be obstinately defended one after the other. The only -entrance is by a narrow passage, about twelve feet long, communicating -with the steep ascent from the beach: it passes under one of the -fighting stages, and though we saw nothing like a door or gateway, it -may be easily barricaded in a manner that will make the forcing it a -very dangerous and difficult undertaking. Upon the whole, this must be -considered as a place of great strength, in which a small number of -resolute men may defend themselves against all the force which a people -with no other arms than those that are in use here could bring against -it. It seemed to be well furnished for a siege with every thing but -water; we saw great quantities of fern root, which they eat as bread, -and dried fish piled up in heaps; but we could not perceive that they -had any fresh water nearer than a brook, which runs close under the foot -of the hill: whether they have any means of getting it from this place -during a siege, or whether they have any method of storing it within the -works in gourds or other vessels, we could not learn; some resource they -certainly have with respect to this article, an indispensable necessary -of life, for otherwise the laying up dry provisions could answer no -purpose. Upon our expressing a desire to see their method of attack and -defence, one of the young men mounted a fighting stage, which they call -_Porava_, and another went into the ditch: both he that was to defend -the place, and he that was to assault it, sung the war-song, and danced -with the same frightful gesticulations that we had seen used in more -serious circumstances, to work themselves up into a degree of that -mechanical fury, which, among all uncivilized nations, is the necessary -prelude to a battle; for dispassionate courage, a strength of mind that -can surmount the sense of danger, without a flow of animal spirits by -which it is extinguished, seems to be the prerogative of those who have -projects of more lasting importance, and a keener sense of honour and -disgrace, than can be formed or felt by men who have few pains or -pleasures besides those of mere animal life, and scarcely any purpose -but to provide for the day that is passing over them, to obtain plunder, -or revenge an insult: they will march against each other indeed in cool -blood, though they find it necessary to work themselves into passion -before they engage; as among us there have been many instances of people -who have deliberately made themselves drunk, that they might execute a -project which they formed when they were sober, but which, while they -continued so, they did not dare to undertake. - -On the side of the hill, near this inclosure, we saw about half an acre -planted with gourds and sweet potatoes, which was the only cultivation -in the bay: under the foot of the point upon which this fortification -stands, are two rocks, one just broken off from the main, and the other -not perfectly detached from it: they are both small, and seem more -proper for the habitations of birds than men; yet there are houses and -places of defence upon each of them. And we saw many other works of the -same kind upon small islands, rocks, and ridges of hills, on different -parts of the coast, besides many fortified towns, which appeared to be -much superior to this. - -The perpetual hostility in which these poor savages, who have made every -village a fort, must necessarily live, will account for there being so -little of their land in a state of cultivation; and, as mischiefs very -often reciprocally produce each other, it may perhaps appear, that there -being so little land in a state of cultivation, will account for their -living in perpetual hostility. But it is very strange, that the same -invention and diligence which have been used in the construction of -places so admirably adapted to defence, almost without tools, should -not, when urged by the same necessity, have furnished them with a single -missile weapon except the lance, which is thrown by hand; they have no -contrivance like a bow to discharge a dart, nor any thing like a sling -to assist them in throwing a stone; which is the more surprising, as the -invention of slings, and bows and arrows, is much more obvious than of -the works which these people construct, and both these weapons are found -among much ruder nations, and in almost every other part of the world. -Besides the long lance and Patoo-patoo, which have been mentioned -already, they have a staff about five feet long, sometimes pointed like -a Serjeant’s halberd, sometimes only tapering to a point at one end, and -having the other end broad, and shaped somewhat like the blade of an -oar. They have also another weapon, about a foot shorter than these, -pointed at one end, and at the other shaped like an axe. The points of -their long lances are barbed, and they handle them with such strength -and agility, that we can match them with no weapon but a loaded musquet. - -After taking a slight view of the country, and loading both the boats -with celery, which we found in great plenty near the beach, we returned -from our excursion, and about five o’clock in the evening got on board -the ship. - -On the 15th, I sailed out of the bay, and at the same time had several -canoes on board, in one of which was our friend Toiava, who said, that -as soon as we were gone he must repair to his Heppah or fort, because -the friends of the man who had been shot by Mr. Gore on the 9th, had -threatened to revenge his death upon him, whom they had reproached as -being our friend. Off the north point of the bay, I saw a great number -of islands, of various extent, which lay scattered to the north-west, in -a direction parallel with the main as far as I could see. I steered -north-east for the north-easternmost of these islands, but the wind -coming to the north-west, I was obliged to stand out to sea. - -To the bay which we had now left I gave the name of MERCURY BAY, on -account of the observation which we had made there of the transit of -that planet over the sun. It lies in latitude 36° 47ʹ S.; and in the -longitude of 184° 4ʹ W.: there are several islands lying both to the -southward and northward of it, and a small island or rock in the middle -of the entrance: within this island the depth of water no where exceeds -nine fathom; the best anchoring is in a sandy bay, which lies just -within the south head, in five and four fathom, bringing a high tower or -rock, which lies without the head, in one with the head, or just shut in -behind it. This place is very convenient both for wooding and watering, -and in the river there is an immense quantity of oysters and other -shell-fish: I have for this reason given it the name of OYSTER RIVER. -But for a ship that wants to stay here any time, the best and safest -place is in the river at the head of the bay; which, from the number of -mangrove trees about it, I have called MANGROVE RIVER. To sail into this -river, the south shore must be kept all the way on board. The country on -the east side of the river and bay, is very barren, its only produce -being fern, and a few other plants that will grow in a poor soil. The -land on the north-west side is covered with wood, and the soil being -much more fertile would doubtless produce all the necessaries of life -with proper cultivation: it is not however so fertile as the lands that -we have seen to the southward, nor do the inhabitants, though numerous, -make so good an appearance: they have no plantations; their canoes are -mean, and without ornament; they sleep in the open air; and say, that -Teratu, whose sovereignty they do not acknowledge, if he was to come -among them, would kill them. This favoured our opinion of their being -out-laws; yet they told us, that they had Heppahs, or strongholds, to -which they retired in time of imminent danger. - -We found, thrown upon the shore, in several parts of this bay, great -quantities of iron sand, which is brought down by every little rivulet -of fresh water that finds its way from the country; which is a -demonstration that there is ore of that metal not far inland: yet -neither the inhabitants of this place, or any other part of the coast -that we have seen, know the use of iron, or set the least value upon it; -all of them preferring the most worthless and useless trifle, not only -to a nail, but to any tool of that metal. - -Before we left the bay, we cut upon one of the trees near the -watering-place the ship’s name, and that of the commander, with the date -of the year and month when we were there; and after displaying the -English colours, I took a formal possession of it in the name of his -Britannic Majesty King George the Third. - - - - - CHAP. IV. - - THE RANGE FROM MERCURY BAY TO THE BAY OF ISLANDS; AN EXPEDITION UP THE -RIVER THAMES: SOME ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS WHO INHABIT ITS BANKS, AND THE - FINE TIMBER THAT GROWS THERE: SEVERAL INTERVIEWS WITH THE NATIVES ON - DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE COAST, AND A SKIRMISH WITH THEM UPON AN ISLAND. - - -I continued plying to windward two days to get under the land, and on -the 18th, about seven in the morning, we were abreast of a very -conspicuous promontory, being then in latitude 36° 26ʹ, and in the -direction of N. 48 W. from the north head of Mercury Bay, or Point -Mercury, which was distant nine leagues: upon this point stood many -people, who seemed to take little notice of us, but talked together with -great earnestness. In about half an hour, several canoes put off from -different places, and came towards the ship; upon which the people on -the point also launched a canoe, and about twenty of them came in her up -with the others. When two of these canoes, in which there might be about -sixty men, came near enough to make themselves heard, they sung their -war-song; but seeing that we took little notice of it, they threw a few -stones at us, and then rowed off towards the shore. We hoped that we had -now done with them, but in a short time they returned, as if with a -fixed resolution to provoke us into a battle, animating themselves by -their song as they had done before. Tupia, without any directions from -us, went to the poop, and began to expostulate: he told them, that we -had weapons which would destroy them in a moment; and that, if they -ventured to attack us, we should be obliged to use them. Upon this, they -flourished their weapons, and cried out, in their language, “Come on -shore, and we will kill you all:” Well, said Tupia, but why should you -molest us while we are at sea? as we do not wish to fight, we shall not -accept your challenge to come on shore; and here there is no pretence -for quarrel, the sea being no more your property than the ship. This -eloquence of Tupia, though it greatly surprised us, having given him no -hints for the arguments he used, had no effect upon our enemies, who -very soon renewed their battery: a musket was then fired through one of -their boats, and this was an argument of sufficient weight, for they -immediately fell astern and left us. - -From the point, of which we were now abreast, the land trends W. ½ S. -near a league, and then S. S. E. as far as we could see; and, besides -the islands that lay without us, we could see land round by the S. W. as -far as N. W.; but whether this was the main or islands, we could not -then determine: the fear of losing the main, however, made me resolve to -follow its direction. With this view, I hauled round the point, and -steered to the southward, but there being light airs all round the -compass, we made but little progress. - -About one o’clock, a breeze sprung up at east, which afterwards came to -N. E. and we steered along the shore S. by E. and S. S. E. having from -twenty-five to eighteen fathom. - -At about half an hour after seven in the evening, having run seven or -eight leagues since noon, I anchored in twenty-three fathom, not -choosing to run any farther in the dark, as I had now land on both -sides, forming the entrance of a straight, bay, or river, lying S. by E. -for on that point we could see no land. - -At day-break, on the 19th, the wind being still favourable, we weighed -and stood with an easy sail up the inlet, keeping nearest to the east -side. In a short time, two large canoes came off to us from the shore; -the people on board said, that they knew Toiava very well, and called -Tupia by his name. I invited some of them on board; and as they knew -they had nothing to fear from us, while they behaved honestly and -peaceably, they immediately complied: I made each of them some presents, -and dismissed them much gratified. Other canoes afterwards came up to us -from a different side of the bay; and the people on board of these also -mentioned the name of Toiava, and sent a young man into the ship, who -told us he was his grandson, and he also was dismissed with a present. - -After having run about five leagues from the place where we had anchored -the night before, our depth of water gradually decreased to six fathom; -and not choosing to go into less, as it was tide of flood, and the wind -blew right up the inlet, I came to an anchor about the middle of the -channel, which is near eleven miles over; after which I sent two boats -out to sound, one on one side, and the other on the other. - -The boats not having found above three feet more water than we were now -in, I determined to go no farther with the ship, but to examine the head -of the bay in the boats; for, as it appeared to run a good way inland, I -thought this a favourable opportunity to examine the interior part of -the country, and its produce. - -At day-break, therefore, I set out in the pinnace and long-boat, -accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia; and we found the -inlet end in a river, about nine miles above the ship: into this river -we entered with the first of the flood, and within three miles found the -water perfectly fresh. Before we had proceeded more than one third of -that distance, we found an Indian town, which was built upon a small -bank of dry sand, but entirely surrounded by a deep mud, which possibly -the inhabitants might consider as a defence. These people, as soon as -they saw us, thronged to the banks, and invited us on shore. We accepted -the invitation, and made them a visit notwithstanding the mud. They -received us with open arms, having heard of us from our good old friend -Toiava; but our stay could not be long, as we had other objects of -curiosity in view. We proceeded up the river till near noon, when we -were fourteen miles within its entrance; and then, finding the face of -the country to continue nearly the same, without any alteration in the -course of the stream, which we had no hope of tracing to its source, we -landed on the west side, to take a view of the lofty trees which every -where adorned its banks. They were of a kind that we had seen before, -though only at a distance, both in Poverty Bay and Hawke’s Bay. Before -we had walked an hundred yards into the wood, we met with one of them -which was nineteen feet eight inches in the girt, at the height of six -feet above the ground: having a quadrant with me, I measured its height -from the root to the first branch, and found it to be eighty-nine feet: -it was as straight as an arrow, and tapered but very little in -proportion to its height; so that I judged there were three hundred and -fifty-six feet of solid timber in it, exclusive of the branches. As we -advanced, we saw many others that were still larger; we cut down a young -one, and the wood proved heavy and solid, not fit for masts, but such as -would make the finest plank in the world. Our carpenter, who was with -us, said that the timber resembled that of the pitch-pine, which is -lightened by tapping; and possibly some such method might be found to -lighten these, and they would then be such masts as no country in Europe -can produce. As the wood was swampy, we could not range far; but we -found many stout trees of other kinds, all of them utterly unknown to -us, specimens of which we brought away. - -The river at this height is as broad as the Thames at Greenwich, and the -tide of flood as strong; it is not indeed quite so deep, but has water -enough for vessels of more than a middle size, and a bottom of mud so -soft, that nothing could take damage by running ashore. - -About three o’clock, we reimbarked, in order to return with the first of -the ebb, and named the river the THAMES, it having some resemblance to -our own river of that name. In our return, the inhabitants of the -village where we had been ashore, seeing us take another channel, came -off to us in their canoes, and trafficked with us in the most friendly -manner, till they had disposed of the few trifles they had. The tide of -ebb just carried us out of the narrow part of the river, into the -channel that run up from the sea before it was dark; and we pulled hard -to reach the ship, but meeting the flood, and a strong breeze at N. N. -W. with showers of rain, we were obliged to desist; and about midnight, -we run under the land, and came to a grappling, where we took such rest -as our situation would admit. At break of day, we set forward again, and -it was past seven o’clock before we reached the ship. We were all -extremely tired, but thought ourselves happy to be on board; for before -nine it blew so hard that the boat could not have rowed ahead, and must -therefore either have gone ashore, or taken shelter under it. - -About three o’clock, having the tide of ebb, we took up our anchor, made -sail, and plied down the river till eight in the evening, when we came -to an anchor again: early in the morning, we made sail with the first -ebb, and kept plying till the flood obliged us once more to come to an -anchor. As we had now only a light breeze, I went in the pinnace, -accompanied by Dr. Solander, to the western shore, but I saw nothing -worthy of notice. - -When I left the ship, many canoes were about it; Mr. Banks therefore -chose to stay on board and traffic with the natives; they bartered their -clothes and arms, chiefly for paper, and behaved with great friendship -and honesty. But while some of them were below with Mr. Banks, a young -man who was upon the deck stole a half minute glass which was in the -binnacle, and was detected just as he was carrying it off. Mr. Hicks, -who was commanding-officer on board, took it into his head to punish -him, by giving him twelve lashes with a cat-o’nine-tails; and -accordingly ordered him to be taken to the gangway, and tied up to the -shrouds. When the other Indians who were on board saw him seized, they -attempted to rescue him; and being resisted called for their arms, which -were handed up from the canoes, and the people of one of them attempted -to come up the ship’s side. The tumult was heard by Mr. Banks, who, with -Tupia, came hastily upon the deck to see what had happened. The Indians -immediately ran to Tupia, who, finding Mr. Hicks inexorable, could only -assure them, that nothing was intended against the life of their -companion; but that it was necessary he should suffer some punishment -for his offence; which being explained to them, they seemed to be -satisfied. The punishment was then inflicted, and as soon as the -criminal was unbound, an old man among the spectators, who was supposed -to be his father, gave him a hearty beating, and sent him down into his -canoe. All the canoes then dropped a-stern, and the people said that -they were afraid to come any more near the ship: after much persuasion, -however, they ventured back again, but their cheerful confidence was at -an end, and their stay was short; they promised indeed, at their -departure, to return with some fish, but we saw no more of them. - -On the 23d, the wind being contrary, we kept plying down the river, and -at seven in the evening, got without the N. W. point of the islands -lying on the west side of it. The weather being bad, night coming on, -and having land on every side of us, I thought it most advisable to -tack, and stretch in under the point, where we anchored in nineteen -fathom. At five in the morning of the 24th, we weighed, and made sail to -the N. W. under our courses and double reefed topsails, the wind being -at S. W. by W. and W. S. W. a strong gale and squally. As the gale would -not permit us to come near the land, we had but a slight and distant -view of it from the time when we got under sail till noon, during a run -of twelve leagues, but we never once lost sight of it. At this time, our -latitude by observation was 36° 15ʹ 20ʺ, we were not above two miles -from a point of land on the main, and three leagues and an half from a -very high island, which bore N. E. by E.: in this situation we had -twenty-six fathom water: the farthest point on the main that we could -see bore N. W. but we could perceive several small islands lying to the -north of that direction. The point of land of which we were now -a-breast, and which I called POINT RODNEY, is the N. W. extremity of the -river Thames; for under that name I comprehend the deep bay, which -terminates in the fresh water stream, and the N. E. extremity is the -promontory which we passed when we entered it, and which I called CAPE -COLVILLE, in honour of the Right Honourable Lord Colville. - -Cape Colville lies in latitude 36° 26ʹ, longitude 184° 27ʹ; it rises -directly from the sea, to a considerable height, and is remarkable for a -lofty rock, which stands to the pitch of the point, and may be -distinguished at a very great distance. From the south point of this -cape, the river runs in a direct line S. by E., and is no where less -than three leagues broad for the distance of fourteen leagues above the -cape, and there it is contracted to a narrow stream, but continues the -same course through a low flat country, or broad valley, which lies -parallel with the sea coast, and the end of which we could not see. On -the east side of the broad part of this river, the land is tolerably -high and hilly; on the west side, it is rather low, but the whole is -covered with verdure and wood, and has the appearance of great -fertility, though there were but a few small spots which had been -cultivated. At the entrance of the narrow part of the river, the land is -covered with mangroves and other shrubs; but farther, there are immense -woods of perhaps the finest timber in the world, of which some account -has already been given: in several places, the wood extends to the very -edge of the water, and where it is at a little distance, the -intermediate space is marshy, like some parts of the banks of the Thames -in England: it is probable that the river contains plenty of fish, for -we saw poles stuck up in many places to set nets for catching them, but -of what kinds I do not know. The greatest depth of water that we found -in this river was six-and-twenty fathom, which gradually decreased to -one fathom and an half: in the mouth of the fresh-water stream, it is -from four to three fathom, but there are large flats and sand banks -lying before it. A ship of moderate draught may, notwithstanding, go a -long way up this river with a flowing tide, for it rises perpendicularly -near ten feet, and at the full and change of the moon, it is high water -about nine o’clock. - -Six leagues within Cape Colville, under the eastern shore, are several -small islands, which, together with the main, seem to form good -harbours; and opposite to these islands, under the western shore, lie -other islands, by which it is also probable that good harbours may be -formed: but if there are no harbours about this river, there is good -anchoring in every part of it where the depth of water is sufficient, -for it is defended from the sea by a chain of islands of different -extent, which lie cross the mouth of it, and which I have, for that -reason, called BARRIER ISLANDS: they stretch N. W. and S. E. ten -leagues. The south end of the chain lies N. E. between two and three -leagues from Cape Colville; and the north end lies N. E. four leagues -and an half from Point Rodney. Point Rodney lies W. N. W. nine leagues -from Cape Colville, in latitude 36° 15ʹ S. longitude 184° 53ʹ W. - -The natives residing about this river do not appear to be numerous, -considering the great extent of the country. But they are strong, -well-made, and active people, and all of them paint their bodies with -red oker and oil from head to foot, which we had not seen before. Their -canoes were large and well built, and adorned with carving, in as good a -taste as any that we had seen upon the coast. - -We continued to stand along the shore till night, with the main land on -one side, and islands on the other, and then anchored in a bay, with -fourteen fathom, and a sandy bottom. We had no sooner come to an anchor, -than we tried our lines, and in a short time caught near one hundred -fish, which the people called Sea-bream; they weighed from six to eight -pounds a-piece, and consequently would supply the whole ship’s company -with food for two days. From the success of our lines here, we called -the place BREAM BAY: the two points that form it lie north and south, -five leagues from each other; it is every where of a good breadth, and -between three and four leagues deep: at the bottom of it there appears -to be a river of fresh water. The north head of the bay, called BREAM -HEAD, is high land, and remarkable for several pointed rocks, which -stand in a range upon the top of it: it may also be known by some small -islands which lie before it, called the HEN AND CHICKENS, one of which -is high, and terminates in two peaks. It lies in latitude 35° 46ʹ S., -and at the distance of seventeen leagues and an half from Cape Colville, -in the direction of N. 41 W. - -The land between Point Rodney and Bream Head, an extent of ten leagues, -is low, and wooded in tufts, with white sand banks between the sea and -the firm lands. We saw no inhabitants, but many fires in the night; and -where there are fires, there are always people. - -At day-break, on the 25th, we left the bay, and steered along shore to -the northward: we found the variation of the compass to be 12° 42ʹ E. At -noon, our latitude was 35° 36ʹ S., Bream Head bore south, distant ten -miles; and we saw some small islands, to which I gave the name of the -POOR KNIGHTS, at N. E. by N. distant three leagues; the northernmost -land in sight bore N. N. W.: we were in this place at the distance of -two miles from the shore, and had twenty-six fathom water. - -The country appeared low, but well covered with wood: we saw some -straggling houses, three or four fortified towns, and near them a large -quantity of cultivated land. - -In the evening, seven large canoes came off to us, with about two -hundred men: some of them came on board, and said that they had heard of -us. To two of them, who appeared to be chiefs, I gave presents; but when -these were gone out of the ship, the others became exceedingly -troublesome. Some of those in the canoes began to trade, and, according -to their custom, to cheat, by refusing to deliver what had been bought, -after they had received the price: among these was one who had received -an old pair of black breeches, which, upon a few small shot being fired -at him, he threw into the sea. All the boats soon after paddled off to -some distance, and when they thought they were out of reach, they began -to defy us, by singing their song, and brandishing their weapons. We -thought it advisable to intimidate them, as well for their sakes as our -own, and therefore fired first some small arms, and then round shot over -their heads; the last put them in a terrible fright, though they -received no damage, except by over-heating themselves in paddling away, -which they did with astonishing expedition. - -In the night we had variable light airs; but towards the morning, a -breeze sprung up at S. and afterwards at S. E. with which we proceeded -slowly to the northward, along the shore. - -Between six and seven o’clock, two canoes came off, and told us that -they had heard of yesterday’s adventure, notwithstanding which the -people came on board, and traded very quietly and honestly for whatever -they had: soon after two canoes came off from a more distant part of the -shore; these were of a much larger, size and full of people: when they -came near, they called off the other canoes which were along side of the -ship, and after a short conference they all came up together. The -strangers appeared to be persons of a superior rank; their canoes were -well carved with many ornaments, and they had with them a great variety -of weapons: they had patoo-patoos both of stone and whalebone, upon -which they appeared to set a great value; they had also ribs of whale, -of which we had before seen imitations in wood, carved and adorned with -tufts of dog’s hair. Their complexions were browner than those of the -people we had seen to the southward, and their bodies and faces were -more marked with the black stains which they call Amoco: they had a -broad spiral on each buttock; and the thighs of many of them were almost -entirely black, some narrow lines only being left untouched, so that at -first sight they appeared to wear striped breeches. With respect to the -Amoco, every different tribe seemed to have a different custom; for all -the men, in some canoes, seemed to be almost covered with it, and those -in others had scarcely a stain, except on the lips, which were black in -all of them, without a single exception. These gentlemen, for a long -time, refused to part with any of their weapons, whatever was offered -for them; at last, however, one of them produced a piece of talc, -wrought into the shape of an axe, and agreed to sell it for a piece of -cloth: the cloth was handed over the ship’s side, but his honour -immediately put off his canoe with the axe. We had recourse to our usual -expedient, and fired a musket ball over the canoe, upon which it put -back to the ship, and the piece of cloth was returned; all the boats -then went ashore, without offering any further intercourse. - -At noon, the main land extended from S. by E. to N. W. by W. a -remarkable point of land bearing W. distant four or five miles; at three -we passed it, and I gave it the name of CAPE BRET, in honour of Sir -Piercy. The land of this cape is considerably higher than any part of -the adjacent coast: at the point of it, is a high round hillock, and N. -E. by N. at the distance of about a mile, is a small high island or -rock, which, like several that have already been described, was -perforated quite through, so as to appear like the arch of a bridge. -This cape, or at least some part of it, is by the natives called -MOTUGOGOGO, and it lies in latitude 35° 10ʹ 30ʺ S. longitude 185° 25ʹ W. -On the west side of it is a large and pretty deep bay, lying in S. W. by -W. in which there appeared to be several small islands: the point that -forms the N. W. entrance, lies W. ¼ N. at the distance of three or four -leagues from Cape Bret, and I distinguished it by the name of POINT -POCOCKE. On the west side of the bay, we saw several villages, both upon -islands and the main, and several very large canoes came off to us, full -of people, who made a better appearance than any we had seen yet: they -were all stout and well-made; their hair, which was black, was tied up -in a bunch on the crown of their heads, and stuck with white feathers. -In each of the canoes, were two or three chiefs, whose habits were of -the best sort of cloth, and covered with dog’s skin, so as to make an -agreeable appearance: most of these people were marked with the Amoco, -like those who had been alongside of us before: their manner of trading -was also equally fraudulent; and the officers neglecting either to -punish or fright them, one of the midshipmen who had been defrauded in -his bargain, had recourse, for revenge, to an expedient which was -equally ludicrous and severe: he got a fishing line, and when the man -who had cheated him was close under the ship’s side in his canoe, he -heaved the lead with so good an aim, that the hook caught him by the -backside; he then pulled the line, and the man holding back, the hook -broke in the shank, and the beard was left sticking in the flesh. - -During the course of this day, though we did not range more than six or -eight leagues of the coast, we had alongside and on board the ship -between four and five hundred of the natives, which is a proof that this -part of the country is well inhabited. - -At eight o’clock the next morning, we were within a mile of a group of -islands which lie close under the main, at the distance of -two-and-twenty miles from Cape Bret, in the direction of N. W. by W. ½ -W. At this place, having but little wind, we lay about two hours, during -which time several canoes came off, and sold us some fish, which we -called Cavalles, and for that reason I gave the same name to the -islands. These people were very insolent, frequently threatening us, -even while they were selling their fish; and when some more canoes came -up, they began to pelt us with stones. Some small shot were then fired, -and hit one of them while he had a stone in his hand, in the very action -of throwing it into the ship: they did not, however, desist, till some -others had been wounded, and then they went away, and we stood off to -sea. - -The wind being directly against us, we kept plying to windward till the -29th, when we had rather lost than gained ground; I therefore bore up -for a bay which lies to the westward of Cape Bret; at this time it was -about two leagues to leeward of us; and at about eleven o’clock we -anchored under the south west side of one of the many islands which line -it on the south-east, in four fathom and an half water; we shoaled our -water to this depth all at once, and if this had not happened, I should -not have come to an anchor so soon. The master was immediately sent out -with two boats to sound, and he soon discovered that we had got upon a -bank, which runs out from the north-west end of the island, and that on -the outside of it there was from eight to ten fathom. - -In the mean time the natives, to the number of near four hundred, -crowded upon us in their canoes, and some of them were admitted on -board: to one, who seemed to be a chief, I gave a piece of broad cloth, -and distributed some trifling presents among the rest. I perceived that -some of these people had been about the ship when she was off at sea, -and that they knew the power of our fire-arms, for the very sight of a -gun threw them into manifest confusion: under this impression, they -traded very fairly; but the people in one of the canoes took the -opportunity of our being at dinner to tow away our buoy: a musket was -fired over them without effect, we then endeavoured to reach them with -some small shot, but they were too far off: by this time they had got -the buoy into their canoe, and we were obliged to fire a musket at them -with ball: this hit one of them, and they immediately threw the buoy -over board: a round shot was then fired over them, which struck the -water and went ashore. Two or three of the canoes immediately landed -their people, who ran about the beach, as we imagined, in search of the -ball. Tupia called to them, and assured them that, while they were -honest, they should be safe, and with a little persuasion many of them -returned to the ship, and their behaviour was such as left us no reason -to suspect that they intended to give us any farther trouble. - -After the ship was removed into deeper water, and properly secured, I -went with the pinnace and yawl, manned and armed, accompanied by Mr. -Banks and Dr. Solander, and landed upon the island, which was about -three quarters of a mile distant: we observed that the canoes which were -about the ship, did not follow us upon our leaving her, which we thought -a good sign; but we had no sooner landed than they crowded to different -parts of the island and came on shore. We were in a little cove, and in -a few minutes were surrounded by two or three hundred people, some -rushing from behind the heads of the cove, and others appearing on the -tops of the hills: they were all armed, but they came on in so confused -and straggling a manner that we scarcely suspected they meant us any -harm, and we were determined that hostilities should not begin on our -part. We marched towards them, and then drew a line upon the sand -between them and us, which we gave them to understand they were not to -pass: at first they continued quiet, but their weapons were held ready -to strike, and they seemed to be rather irresolute than peaceable. While -we remained in this state of suspense, another party of Indians came up, -and now growing more bold as their number increased, they began the -dance and song, which are their preludes to a battle: still, however, -they delayed the attack, but a party ran to each of our boats, and -attempted to draw them on shore; this seemed to be the signal, for the -people about us at the same time began to press in upon our line: our -situation was now become too critical for us to remain longer inactive, -I therefore discharged my musket, which was loaded with small shot, at -one of the forwardest, and Mr. Banks and two of the men fired -immediately afterwards: this made them fall back in some confusion, but -one of the chiefs, who was at the distance of about twenty yards, -rallied them, and running forward, weaving his patoo-patoo, and calling -loudly to his companions, led them to the charge. Dr. Solander, whose -piece was not yet discharged, fired at this champion, who stopped short -upon feeling the shot, and then ran away with the rest: they did not -however disperse, but got together upon a rising ground, and seemed only -to want some leader of resolution to renew their attack. As they were -now beyond the reach of small shot, we fired with ball, but as none of -them took place, they still continued in a body, and in this situation -we remained about a quarter of an hour: in the mean time the ship, from -whence a much greater number of Indians were seen than could be -discovered in our situation, brought her broad-side to bear, and -entirely dispersed them, by firing a few shot over their heads. In this -skirmish only two of the Indians were hurt with the small shot, and not -a single life was lost, which would not have been the case, if I had not -restrained the men, who, either from fear or the love of mischief, -showed as much impatience to destroy them as a sportsman to kill his -game. When we were in quiet possession of our cove, we laid down our -arms and began to gather celery, which grew here in great plenty: after -a little time we recollected to have seen some of the people hide -themselves in a cave of one of the rocks, we therefore went towards the -place, when an old Indian, who proved to be the chief that I had -presented with a piece of broad cloth in the morning, came out with his -wife and his brother, and in a supplicating posture put themselves under -our protection. We spoke kindly to them, and the old man then told us -that he had another brother, who was one of those that had been wounded -by the small shot, and enquired, with much solicitude and concern, if he -would die. We assured him that he would not, and at the same time put -into his hand both a musket-ball and some small shot, telling him, that -those only who were wounded with the ball would die, and that the others -would recover; at the same time assuring him, that if we were attacked -again, we should certainly defend ourselves with the ball, which would -wound them mortally. Having now taken courage, they came and sat down by -us, and as tokens of our perfect amity, we made them presents of such -trifles as we happened to have about us. - -Soon after we re-embarked in our boats, and having rowed to another cove -in the same island, climbed a neighbouring hill, which commanded the -country to a considerable distance. The prospect was very uncommon and -romantic, consisting of innumerable islands, which formed as many -harbours, where the water was as smooth as a mill-pool: we saw also many -towns, scattered houses, and plantations, the country being much more -populous than any we had seen. One of the towns was very near us, from -which many of the Indians advanced, taking great pains to show us that -they were unarmed, and in their gestures and countenances expressing -great meekness and humility. In the mean time some of our people, who, -when the Indians were to be punished for a fraud, assumed the inexorable -justice of a Lycurgus, thought fit to break into one of their -plantations, and dig up some potatoes: for this offence I ordered each -of them to be punished with twelve lashes, after which two of them were -discharged; but the third, insisting that it was no crime in an -Englishman to plunder an Indian plantation, though it was a crime in an -Indian to defraud an Englishman of a nail, I ordered him back into his -confinement, from which I would not release him till he had received six -lashes more. - -On the 30th, there being a dead calm, and no probability of our getting -to sea, I sent the master, with two boats, to sound the harbour; and all -the forenoon had several canoes about the ship, who traded in a very -fair and friendly manner. In the evening we went ashore upon the main, -where the people received us very cordially; but we found nothing worthy -of notice. - -In this bay we were detained by contrary winds and calms several days, -during which time our intercourse with the natives was continued in the -most peaceable and friendly manner, they being frequently about the -ship, and we ashore, both upon the islands and the main. In one of our -visits to the continent, an old man showed us the instrument they use in -the staining their bodies, which exactly resembled those that were -employed for the same purpose at Otaheite. We saw also the man who was -wounded in attempting to steal our buoy: the ball had passed through the -fleshy part of his arm, and grazed his breast; but the wound, under the -care of Nature, the best surgeon, and a simple diet, the best nurse, was -in a good state, and seemed to give the patient neither pain nor -apprehension. We saw also the brother of our old chief, who had been -wounded with small shot in our skirmish: they had struck his thigh -obliquely, and though several of them were still in the flesh, the wound -seemed to be attended with neither danger nor pain. We found among their -plantations the _morus papyrifera_, of which these people, as well as -those of Otaheite, make cloth; but here the plant seems to be rare, and -we saw no pieces of the cloth large enough for any use but to wear by -way of ornament in their ears. - -Having one day landed in a very distant part of the bay, the people -immediately fled, except one old man, who accompanied us wherever we -went, and seemed much pleased with the little presents we made him. We -came at last to a little fort, built upon a small rock, which at high -water was surrounded by the sea, and accessible only by a ladder: we -perceived that he eyed us with a kind of restless solicitude as we -approached it, and upon our expressing a desire to enter it, he told us -that his wife was there: he saw that our curiosity was not diminished by -this intelligence, and after some hesitation, he said, if we would -promise to offer no indecency, he would accompany us: our promise was -readily given, and he immediately led the way. The ladder consisted of -steps fastened to a pole, but we found the ascent both difficult and -dangerous. When we entered we found three women, who, the moment they -saw us, burst into tears of terror and surprise: some kind words and a -few presents soon removed their apprehensions, and put them into good -humour. We examined the house of our old friend, and by his interest two -others, which were all that the fortification contained, and having -distributed a few more presents, we parted with mutual satisfaction. - -At four o’clock in the morning of the 5th of December, we weighed, with -a light breeze, but it being variable with frequent calms, we made -little way. We kept turning out of the bay till the afternoon, and about -ten o’clock we were suddenly becalmed, so that the ship would neither -wear nor stay, and the tide or current setting strong, she drove towards -land so fast, that before any measures could be taken for her security, -she was within a cable’s length of the breakers: we had thirteen fathom -water, but the ground was so foul that we did not dare to drop our -anchor; the pinnace therefore was immediately hoisted out to take the -ship in tow, and the men, sensible of their danger, exerting themselves -to the utmost, and a faint breeze springing up off the land, we -perceived, with unspeakable joy, that she made head-way, after having -been so near the shore that Tupia, who was not sensible of our hair’s -breadth escape, was at this very time conversing with the people upon -the beach, whose voices were distinctly heard, notwithstanding the roar -of the breakers. We now thought all danger was over, but about an hour -afterwards, just as the man in the chains had cried “seventeen fathom,” -the ship struck. The shock threw us all into the utmost consternation; -Mr. Banks, who had undressed himself and was stepping into bed, ran -hastily up to the deck, and the man in the chains called out “five -fathom;” by this time, the rock on which we had struck being to -windward, the ship went off without having received the least damage, -and the water very soon deepened to twenty fathom. - -This rock lies half a mile W. N. W. of the northernmost or outermost -island on the south-east side of the bay. We had light airs from the -land, with calms, till nine o’clock the next morning, when we got out of -the bay, and a breeze springing up at N. N. W. we stood out to sea. - -This bay, as I have before observed, lies on the west side of Cape Bret, -and I named it the BAY OF ISLANDS, from the great number of islands -which line its shores, and from several harbours equally safe and -commodious, where there is room and depth for any number of shipping. -That in which we lay is on the south-west side of the south westernmost -island, called MATURARO, on the south-east side of the bay. I have made -no accurate survey of this bay, being discouraged by the time it would -cost me; I thought also that it was sufficient to be able to affirm that -it afforded us good anchorage, and refreshment of every kind. It was not -the season for roots, but we had plenty of fish, most of which, however, -we purchased of the natives, for we could catch very little ourselves -either with net or line. When we showed the natives our seine, which is -such as the King’s ships are generally furnished with, they laughed at -it, and in triumph produced their own, which, was indeed of an enormous -size, and made of a kind of grass, which is very strong: it was five -fathom deep, and by the room it took up, it could not be less than three -or four hundred fathom long. Fishing seems indeed to be the chief -business of life in this part of the country; we saw about all their -towns a great number of nets, laid in heaps like hay-cocks, and covered -with a thatch to keep them from the weather, and we scarcely entered a -house where some of the people were not employed in making them. The -fish we procured here were sharks, sting-rays, sea-bream, mullet, -mackerel, and some others. - -The inhabitants in this bay are far more numerous than in any other part -of the country that we had before visited; it did not appear to us that -they were united under one head, and though their towns were fortified, -they seemed to live together in perfect amity. - -It is high water in this bay at the full and change of the moon, about -eight o’clock, and the tide then rises from six to eight feet -perpendicularly. It appears, from such observations as I was able to -make of the tides upon the sea-coast, that the flood comes from the -southward; and I have reason to think that there is a current which -comes from the westward, and sets along the shore to the S. E. or S. S. -E. as the land happens to lie. - - - - - CHAP. V. - - RANGE FROM THE BAY OF ISLANDS ROUND NORTH CAPE TO QUEEN CHARLOTTE’S - SOUND; AND A DESCRIPTION OF THAT PART OF THE COAST. - - -ON Thursday the 7th of December, at noon, Cape Bret bore S. S. E. ½ E. -distant ten miles, and our latitude, by observation, was 34° 59ʹ S.; -soon after we made several observations of the sun and moon, the result -of which made our longitude 185° 36ʹ W. The wind being against us, we -had made but little way. In the afternoon, we stood in shore, and -fetched close under the Cavalles, from which islands the main trends W. -by N.: several canoes put off and followed us, but a light breeze -springing up, I did not choose to wait for them. I kept standing to the -W. N. W. and N. W. till the next morning ten o’clock, when I tacked and -stood in for the shore, from which we were about five leagues distant. -At noon, the westernmost land in sight bore W. by S. and was about four -leagues distant. In the afternoon, we had a gentle breeze to the west, -which in the evening came to the south, and continuing so all night, by -day-light brought us pretty well in with the land, seven leagues to the -westward of the Cavalles, where we found a deep bay running in S. W. by -W. and W. S. W. the bottom of which we could but just see, and there the -land appeared to be low and level. To this bay, which I called DOUBTLESS -BAY, the entrance is formed by two points, which lie W. N. W. and E. S. -E. and are five miles distant from each other. The wind not permitting -us to look in here, we steered for the westernmost land in sight, which -bore from us W. N. W. about three leagues, but before we got the length -of it, it fell calm. - -While we lay becalmed, several canoes came off to us, but the people -having heard of our guns, it was not without great difficulty that they -were persuaded to come under our stern: after having bought some of -their cloaths, as well as their fish, we began to make inquiries -concerning their country, and learnt, by the help of Tupia, that, at the -distance of three days’ rowing in their canoes, at a place called -MOOREWENNUA, the land would take a short turn to the southward, and from -thence extend no more to the west. This place we concluded to be the -land discovered by Tasman, which he called CAPE MARIA VAN DIEMEN, and -finding these people so intelligent, we inquired farther, if they knew -of any country besides their own: they answered, that they never had -visited any other, but that their ancestors had told them, that to the -N. W. by N. or N. N. W. there was a country of great extent, called -ULIMAROA, to which some people had sailed in a very large canoe; that -only part of them returned, and reported, that after a passage of a -month they had seen a country where the people eat hogs. Tupia then -inquired whether these adventurers brought any hogs with them when they -returned; they said, No: Then, replied Tupia, your story is certainly -false, for it cannot be believed that men who came back from an -expedition without hogs, had ever visited a country where hogs were to -be procured. It is however remarkable, notwithstanding the shrewdness of -Tupia’s objection, that when they mentioned hogs, it was not by -description but by name; calling them _Booah_, the name which is given -them in the South-sea islands; but if the animal had been wholly unknown -to them, and they had had no communication with people to whom it was -known, they could not possibly have been acquainted with the name. - -About ten o’clock at night, a breeze sprung up at W. N. W. with which we -stood off north; and at noon the next day, the Cavalles bore S. E. by E. -distant eight leagues; the entrance of Doubtless Bay S. by W., distant -three leagues; and the north-west extremity of the land in sight, which -we judged to be the main, bore N. W. by W.: our latitude by observation -was 34° 44ʹ S. In the evening, we found the variation to be 12° 41ʹ E. -by the azimuth, and 12° 40ʹ by the amplitude. - -Early in the morning, we stood in with the land, seven leagues to the -westward of Doubtless Bay, the bottom of which is not far distant from -the bottom of another large bay, which the shore forms at this place, -being separated only by a low neck of land, which juts out into a -peninsula that I have called KNUCKLE POINT. About the middle of this -bay, which we called SANDY BAY, is a high mountain, standing upon a -distant shore, to which I gave the name of MOUNT CAMEL. The latitude -here is 34° 51ʹ S. and longitude 186° 50ʹ. We had twenty-four and -twenty-five fathom water, with a good bottom; but there seems to be -nothing in this bay that can induce a ship to put into it; for the land -about it is utterly barren and desolate, and, except Mount Camel, the -situation is low: the soil appears to be nothing but white sand, thrown -up in low irregular hills and narrow ridges, lying parallel with the -shore. But barren and desolate as this place is, it is not without -inhabitants: we saw one village on the west side of Mount Camel, and -another on the east side; we saw also five canoes full of people, who -pulled after the ship, but could not come up with us. At nine o’clock, -we tacked and stood to the northward; and at noon, the Cavalles bore S. -E. by E., distant thirteen leagues; the north extremity of the land in -sight, making like an island, bore N. W. ¼ N. distant nine leagues; and -Mount Camel bore S. W. by S., distance six leagues. - -The wind being contrary, we kept plying northward till five o’clock in -the evening of the 12th, when, having made very little way, we tacked -and stood to the N. E. being two leagues to the northward of Mount -Camel, and about a mile and a half from the shore, in which situation we -had two-and-twenty fathom water. - -At ten it began to blow and rain, which brought us under double reefed -topsails; at twelve we tacked and stood to the westward till seven the -next morning, when we tacked and stood again to the N. E., being about a -mile to windward of the place where we tacked last night. Soon after it -blew very hard at N. N. W. with heavy squalls and much rain, which -brought us under our courses, and split the maintopsail; so that we were -obliged to unbend it and bend another: at ten, it became more moderate, -and we set the topsails, double reefed: at noon, having strong gales and -heavy weather, we tacked and stood to the westward, and had no land in -sight for the first time since we had been upon this coast. - -We had now strong gales at W. and W. S. W.; and at half an hour past -three we tacked and stood to the northward. Soon after, a small island -lying off Knuckle Point bore S. ½ W., distant half a league. In the -evening, having split the fore and mizen topsails, we brought the ship -under her courses; and at midnight, we wore, and stood to the southward -till five in the morning; when we tacked and stood to the N. W., and saw -land bearing south, at the distance of eight or nine leagues; by this we -discovered that we had fallen much to the leeward since yesterday -morning. At noon our latitude by observation was 34° 6ʹ S.; and the same -land which we had seen before to the N. W. now bore S. W., and appeared -to be the northern extremity of the country. We had a large swell -rolling in from the westward, and, therefore, concluded that we were not -covered by any land in that quarter. At eight in the evening, we tacked -and stood to the westward, with as much sail as we could bear; and at -noon the next day, we were in latitude 34° 10ʹ, longitude 185° 45ʹ W., -and by estimation about seventeen leagues from the land, notwithstanding -our utmost endeavours to keep in with it. - -On the 16th, at six in the morning, we saw land from the mast-head, -bearing S. S. W.; and at noon it bore S. by W. distant fourteen leagues: -while we were standing in for the shore, we sounded several times, but -had no ground with ninety fathom. At eight, we tacked in a hundred and -eight fathom, at about three or four miles from the shore, which was the -same point of land that we had to the N. W. before we were blown off. At -noon, it bore S. W., distant about three miles; Mount Camel bore S. by -E., distant about eleven leagues, and the westernmost land in sight bore -S. 75 W.; the latitude by observation was 34° 20ʹ S. At four o’clock, we -tacked and stood in shore, in doing which, we met with a strong -rippling, and the ship fell fast to leeward, which we imputed to a -current setting east. At eight, we tacked and stood off till eight the -next morning; when we tacked and stood in, being about ten leagues from -the land: at noon, the point of land which we were near the day before, -bore S. S. W. distant five leagues. The wind still continued at west; -and at seven o’clock, we tacked in thirty-five fathom, when the point of -land which has been mentioned before, bore N. W. by N., distant four or -five miles; so that we had not gained one inch to windward the last -twenty-four hours, which confirmed our opinion that there was a current -to the eastward. The point of land I called NORTH CAPE, it being the -northern extremity of this country. It lies in latitude 34° 22ʹ S., -longitude 186° 55ʹ W., and thirty-one leagues distant from Cape Bret, in -the direction of N. 63 W. It forms the north point of Sandy Bay, and is -a peninsula jutting out N. E. about two miles, and terminating in a -bluff head that is flat at the top. The isthmus which joins this head to -the main land is very low, and for that reason the land of the cape, -from several situations, has the appearance of an island. It is still -more remarkable when it is seen from the southward, by the appearance of -a high round island at the S. E. point of the cape; but this also is a -deception; for what appears to be an island is a round hill, joined to -the cape by a low narrow neck of land. Upon the cape we saw a Hippah or -village, and a few inhabitants; and on the south-east side of it, there -appears to be anchorage, and good shelter from the south-west and -north-west winds. - -We continued to stand off and on, making N. W. till noon on the 21st, -when North Cape bore S. 39 E. distant thirty-eight leagues. Our -situation varied only a few leagues till the 23d, when, about seven -o’clock in the evening, we saw land from the mast-head, bearing S. ½ E. -At eleven the next morning, we saw it again, bearing S. S. E. at the -distance of eight leagues: we now stood to the S. W.; and at four -o’clock, the land bore S. E. by S. distant four leagues, and proved to -be a small island, with other islands or rocks, still smaller, lying off -the south-west end of it, and another lying off the north-east end, -which were discovered by Tasman, and called the Three Kings. The -principal island lies in latitude 34° 12ʹ S., longitude 187° 48ʹ W., and -distant fourteen or fifteen leagues from North Cape, in the direction of -W. 14 N. At midnight, we tacked and stood to the N. E. till six the next -morning, which was Christmas-day, when we tacked and stood to the -southward. At noon, the Three Kings bore E. 8 N. distant five or six -leagues. The variation this morning by the azimuth was 11° 25ʹ E. - -On the 26th, we stood to the southward close upon a wind; and at noon, -were in latitude 35° 10ʹ S., longitude 188° 20ʹ W., the Three Kings -bearing N. 26 W. distant twenty-two leagues. In this situation we had no -land in sight; and yet, by observation, we were in the latitude of the -Bay of Islands; and by my reckoning but twenty leagues to the westward -of North Cape: from whence it appears, that the northern part of this -island is very narrow; for otherwise we must have seen some part of the -west side of it. We stood to the southward till twelve at night, and -then tacked and stood to the northward. - -At four o’clock in the morning, the wind freshened, and at nine, blew a -storm; so that we were obliged to bring the ship to under her mainsail. -Our course made good between noon this day and yesterday was S. S. W. ½ -W., distance eleven miles. The Three Kings bore N. 27 E. distant -seventy-seven miles. The gale continued all this day, and till two the -next morning, when it fell, and began to veer to the southward and S. -W., where it fixed about four, when we made sail and steered east in for -the land, under the fore-sail and main-sail; but the wind then rising, -and by eight o’clock being increased to a hurricane, with a prodigious -sea, we were obliged to take in the main-sail; we then wore the ship, -and brought her to with her head to the north-west. At noon the gale was -somewhat abated, but we had still heavy squalls. Our course made good -this day, was north, a little easterly, twenty-nine miles; latitude by -account 34° 50ʹ S., longitude 188° 27ʹ W.; the Three Kings bore N. 41 E. -distant fifty-two miles. At seven o’clock in the evening, the wind being -at S. W. and S. W. by W., with hard squalls, we wore and lay on the -other tack; and at six the next morning spread more sail. Our course and -distance since yesterday was E. by N. twenty-nine miles. In the -afternoon, we had hard squalls at S. W.; and at eight in the evening, -wore and stood to the N. W. till five the next morning; and then wore -and stood to the S. E. At six, we saw the land bearing N. E., distant -about six leagues, which we judged to be Cape _Maria Van Diemen_, and -which corresponded with the account that had been given of it by the -Indians. At midnight we wore and stood to the S. E. And on the next day -at noon, Cape Maria Van Diemen bore N. E. by N., distant about five -leagues. At seven in the evening, we tacked and stood to the westward, -with a moderate breeze at S. W. by S. and S. W. Mount Camel then bore N. -83 E., and the northernmost land, or Cape Maria Van Diemen, N. by W.; we -were now distant from the nearest land about three leagues, where we had -something more than forty fathom water; and it must be remarked, that -Mount Camel, which when seen on the other side did not seem to be more -than one mile from the sea, seemed to be but little more when seen from -this side; which is a demonstration that the land here cannot be more -than two or three miles broad, or from sea to sea. - -At six o’clock in the morning of January the 1st, 1770, being New-year’s -day, we tacked and stood to the eastward, the Three Kings bearing N. W. -by N. At noon, we tacked again, and stood to the westward, being in -latitude 34° 37ʹ S.; the Three Kings bearing N. W. by N. at the distance -of ten or eleven leagues; and Cape Maria Van Diemen N. 31 E. distant -about four leagues and a half: in this situation we had fifty-four -fathom water. - -During this part of our navigation two particulars are very remarkable; -in latitude 35° S., and in the midst of summer, I met with a gale of -wind, which for its strength and continuance was such as I had scarcely -ever been in before, and we were three weeks in getting ten leagues to -the westward, and five week in getting fifty leagues, for at this time -it was so long since we passed Cape Bret. During the gale, we were -happily at a considerable distance from the land, otherwise it is highly -probable that we should never have returned to relate our adventures. - -At five o’clock in the evening, having a fresh breeze to the westward, -we tacked and stood to the southward: at this time North Cape bore E. ¾ -N., and just open of a point that lies three leagues W. by N. from it. - -This cape, as I have observed before, is the northernmost extremity of -this country, and the easternmost point of a peninsula, which runs out -N. W. and N. W. by N. seventeen or eighteen leagues, and of which Cape -Maria Van Diemen is the westernmost point. Cape Maria lies in latitude -34° 30ʹ S., longitude 187° 18ʹ W.; and from this point the land trends -away S. E. by S. and S. E. beyond Mount Camel, and is every where a -barren shore, consisting of banks of white sand. - -On the 2d, at noon, we were in latitude 35° 17ʹ S., and Cape Maria bore -north, distant about sixteen leagues, as near as we could guess; for we -had no land in sight, and did not dare to go nearer, as a fresh gale -blew right on shore, with a rolling sea. The wind continued at W. S. W. -and S. W. with frequent squalls; in the evening we shortened sail, and -at midnight tacked, and made a trip to the N. W. till two in the -morning, when we wore and stood to the southward. At break of day, we -made sail, and edged away, in order to make land; and at ten o’clock, we -saw it, bearing N. W. It appeared to be high, and at noon extended from -N. to E. N. E. distant by estimation eight or ten leagues. Cape Maria -then bore N. 2° 30ʹ W. distant thirty-three leagues; our latitude by -observation was 36° 2ʹ S. About seven o’clock in the evening, we were -within six leagues of it; but having a fresh gale upon it, with a -rolling sea, we hauled our wind to the S. E., and kept on that course -close upon the wind all night, sounding several times, but having no -ground with one hundred, and one hundred and ten fathom. - -At eight o’clock the next morning, we were about five leagues from the -land, and off a place which lies in latitude 36° 25ʹ, and had the -appearance of a bay or inlet. It bore east; and in order to see more of -it, we kept on our course till eleven o’clock, when we were not more -than three leagues from it, and then discovered that it was neither -inlet nor bay, but a tract of low land, bounded by higher lands on each -side, which produced the deception. At this time, we tacked and stood to -the N. W.; and at noon, the land was not distant more than three or four -leagues. We were now in latitude 36° 31ʹ S., longitude 185° 50ʹ W. Cape -Maria bore N. 25 W. distant forty-four leagues and a half; so that the -coast must be almost straight in the direction of S. S. E. ¾ E. and N. -N. W. ¾ W. nearly. In about latitude 35° 45ʹ is some high land adjoining -to the sea; to the southward of which the shore is also high, and has -the most desolate and inhospitable appearance that can be imagined. -Nothing is to be seen but hills of sand, on which there is scarcely a -blade of verdure; and a vast sea, impelled by the westerly winds -breaking upon it in a dreadful surf, renders it not only forlorn, but -frightful; complicating the idea of danger with desolation, and -impressing the mind at once with a sense of misery and death. From this -place I steered to the northward, resolving never more to come within -the same distance of the coast, except the wind should be very -favourable indeed. I stood under a fresh sail all the day, hoping to get -an offing by the next noon, and we made good a course of a hundred and -two miles N. 38 W. Our latitude by observation was 35° 10ʹ S.; and Cape -Maria bore N. 10 E., distance forty-one miles. In the night, the wind -shifted from S. W. by S. to S., and blew fresh. Our course to the noon -of the 5th, was N. 75 W., distance eight miles. - -At day-break on the 6th, we saw the land, which we took to be Cape -Maria, bearing N. N. E., distant eight or nine leagues: and on the 7th, -in the afternoon, the land bore east: and some time after, we discovered -a turtle upon the water; but being awake, it dived instantly, so that we -could not take it. At noon, the high land, which has just been -mentioned, extended from N. to E. at the distance of five or six -leagues; and in two places, a flat gave it the appearance of a bay or -inlet. The course that we made good the last four-and-twenty hours was -S. 33 E. fifty-three miles; Cape Maria bearing N. 25 W., distant thirty -leagues. - -We sailed within sight of land all this day, with gentle gales between -the N. E. and N. W.; and by the next noon had sailed sixty-nine miles, -in the direction of S. 37 E.; our latitude by observation was 36° 39ʹ S. -The land which on the 4th we had taken for a bay, now bore N. E. by N., -distant five leagues and a half; and Cape Maria N. 29 W., forty-seven -leagues. - -On the 9th, we continued a south-east course till eight o’clock in the -evening, having run seven leagues since noon, with the wind at N. N. E. -and N., and being within three or four leagues of the land, which -appeared to be low and sandy. I then steered S. E. by S. in a direction -parallel with the coast, having from forty-eight to thirty-four fathom -water, with a black sandy bottom. At day-break the next morning, we -found ourselves between two and three leagues from the land, which began -to have a better appearance, rising in gentle slopes, and being covered -with trees and herbage. We saw a smoke and a few houses, but it appeared -to be but thinly inhabited. At seven o’clock, we steered S. by E., and -afterwards S. by W., the land lying in that direction. At nine, we were -a-breast of a point which rises with an easy ascent from the sea to a -considerable height: this point, which lies in latitude 37° 43ʹ, I named -WOODY HEAD. About eleven miles from this Head, in the direction of S. W. -½ W. lies a very small island, upon which we saw a great number of -gannets, and which we, therefore, called GANNET ISLAND. At noon, a high -craggy point bore E. N. E. distant about a league and a half, to which I -gave the name of ALBATROSS POINT: it lies in latitude 38° 4ʹ S., -longitude 184° 42ʹ W.; and is distant seven leagues in the direction of -S. 17 W. from Woody Head. On the north-side of this point the shore -forms a bay, in which there appears to be anchorage and shelter for -shipping. Our course and distance for the last twenty-four hours was S. -37 E. sixty-nine miles; and at noon this day Cape Maria bore N. 30 W. -distant eighty-two leagues. Between twelve and one, the wind shifted at -once from N. N. E. to S. S. W. with which we stood to the westward till -four o’clock in the afternoon; and then tacked, and stood again in shore -till seven; when we tacked again and stood to the westward, having but -little wind. At this time Albatross Point bore N. E., distant near two -leagues, and the southernmost land in sight bore S. S. W. ½ W. being a -very high mountain, and in appearance greatly resembling the Peak of -Teneriffe. In this situation we had thirty fathom water, and having but -little wind all night, we tacked about four in the morning, and stood in -for the shore. Soon after, it fell calm; and being in forty-two fathom -water, the people caught a few sea-bream. At eleven, a light breeze -sprung up from the west, and we made sail to the southward. We continued -to steer S. by W. and S. S. W. along the shore, at the distance of about -four leagues, with gentle breezes from between N. W. and N. N. E. At -seven in the evening, we saw the top of the peak to the southward, above -the clouds, which concealed it below. And at this time, the southernmost -land in sight bore S. by W.; the variation, by several azimuths which -were taken both in the morning and the evening, appeared to be 14° 15ʹ -easterly. - -At noon on the 12th, we were distant about three leagues from the shore -which lies under the peak, but the peak itself was wholly concealed by -clouds: we judged it to bear about S. S. E.; and some very remarkable -peaked islands, which lay under the shore, bore E. S. E., distant three -or four leagues. At seven in the evening we sounded, and had forty-two -fathom, being distant from the shore between two and three leagues: we -judged the peak to bear east; and after it was dark, we saw fires upon -the shore. - -At five o’clock in the morning we saw, for a few minutes, the summit of -the peak, towering above the clouds, and covered with snow. It now bore -N. E.; it lies in latitude 39° 16ʹ S., longitude 185° 15ʹ W.; and I -named it MOUNT EGMONT, in honour of the earl. It seems to have a large -base, and to rise with a gradual ascent; it lies near the sea, and is -surrounded by a flat country, of a pleasant appearance, being clothed -with verdure and wood, which renders it the more conspicuous, and the -shore under it forms a large cape, which I have named CAPE EGMONT. It -lies S. S. W. ½ W. twenty-seven leagues distant from Albatross Point, -and on the north-side of it are two small islands, which lie near a -remarkable point on the main, that rises to a considerable height in the -form of a sugar-loaf. To the southward of the cape, the land trends away -S. E. by E. and S. S. E., and seems to be every where a bold shore. At -noon, Cape Egmont bore about N. E.; and in this direction, at about four -leagues from the shore, we had forty fathom of water. The wind during -the rest of the day was from W. to N. W. by W., and we continued to -steer along the shore S. S. E. and S. E. by E., keeping at the distance -of between two or three leagues. At half an hour after seven, we had -another transient view of Mount Edgcombe, which bore N. 17 W., distant -about ten leagues. - -At five the next morning, we steered S. E. by S., the coast inclining -more southerly; and in about half an hour we saw land, bearing S. W. by -S., for which we hauled up. At noon, the north-west extremity of the -land in sight bore S. 63 W., and some high land, which had the -appearance of an island lying under the main, bore S. S. E., distant -five leagues. We were now in a bay, the bottom of which bearing south, -we could not see, though it was clear in that quarter. Our latitude by -observation was 40° 27ʹ S., longitude 184° 39ʹ W. At eight in the -evening, we were within two leagues of the land which we had discovered -in the morning, having run ten leagues since noon: the land which then -bore S. 63 W., now bore N. 59 W., at the distance of seven or eight -leagues, and had the appearance of an island. Between this land and CAPE -EGMONT lies the bay, the west-side of which was our situation at this -time, and the land here is of a considerable height, and diversified by -hill and valley. - - - - - CHAP. VI. - - TRANSACTIONS IN QUEEN CHARLOTTE’S SOUND: PASSAGE THROUGH THE STRAIGHT -WHICH DIVIDES THE TWO ISLANDS, AND BACK TO CAPE TURNAGAIN: HORRID CUSTOM -OF THE INHABITANTS: REMARKABLE MELODY OF BIRDS: A VISIT TO A HEPPAH, AND - MANY OTHER PARTICULARS. - - -THE shore at this place seemed to form several bays, into one of which I -proposed to carry the ship, which was become very foul, in order to -careen her, and at the same time repair some defects, and recruit our -wood and water. - -With this view, I kept plying on and off all night, having from eighty -to sixty-three fathom. At day-break the next morning, I stood for an -inlet which runs in S. W.; and at eight I got within the entrance which -may be known by a reef of rocks, stretching from the north-west point, -and some rocky islands which lie off the south-east point. At nine -o’clock, there being little wind, and what there was being variable, we -were carried by the tide or current within two cables’ length of the -north-west shore, where we had fifty-four fathom water, but by the help -of our boats we got clear. Just at this time we saw a sea-lion rise -twice near the shore, the head of which exactly resembled that of the -male which has been described in the Account of Lord Anson’s Voyage. We -also saw some of the natives in a canoe cross the bay, and a village -situated upon the point of an island which lies seven or eight miles -within the entrance. At noon, we were the length of this island, but -there being little wind, the boats were ordered a-head to tow. About one -o’clock, we hauled close round the south-west end of the island; and the -inhabitants of the village which was built upon it, were immediately up -in arms. About two, we anchored in a very safe and convenient cove, on -the north-west-side of the bay, and facing the south-west end of the -island, in eleven fathom water, with soft ground, and moored with the -stream anchor. - -We were about four long cannon shot distant from the village or Heppah, -from which four canoes were immediately dispatched, as we imagined, to -reconnoitre, and, if they should find themselves able, to take us. The -men were all well armed, and dressed nearly as they are represented in -the figure published by Tasman; two corners of the cloth which they -wrapped round the body were passed over the shoulders from behind, and -being brought down to the upper edge of it before, were made fast to it -just under the breast; but few, or none, had feathers in their hair. - -They rowed round the ship several times, with their usual tokens of -menace and defiance, and at last began the assault by throwing some -stones: Tupia expostulated with them, but apparently to very little -purpose; and we began to fear that they would oblige us to fire at them, -when a very old man in one of the boats expressed a desire of coming on -board. We gladly encouraged him in his design, a rope was thrown into -his canoe, and she was immediately along side of the ship: the old man -rose up, and prepared to come up the ship’s side, upon which all the -rest expostulated with great vehemence against the attempt, and at last -laid hold of him, and held him back: he adhered however to his purpose -with a calm but steady perseverance, and having at length disengaged -himself, he came on board. We received him with all possible expressions -of friendship and kindness, and after some time dismissed him, with many -presents, to his companions. As soon as he was returned on board his -canoe, the people in all the rest began to dance, but whether as a token -of enmity or friendship we could not certainly determine, for we had -seen them dance in a disposition both for peace and war. In a short -time, however, they retired to their fort, and soon after I went on -shore, with most of the gentlemen, at the bottom of the cove, a-breast -of the ship. - -We found a fine stream of excellent water, and wood in the greatest -plenty, for the land here was one forest, of vast extent. As we brought -the seine with us, we hauled it once or twice, and with such success -that we caught near three hundred weight of fish of different sorts, -which was equally distributed among the ship’s company. - -At day-break, while we were busy in careening the ship, three canoes -came off to us, having on board above a hundred men, besides several of -their women, which we were pleased to see, as in general it is a sign of -peace; but they soon afterwards became very troublesome, and gave us -reason to apprehend some mischief from them to the people that were in -our boats alongside the ship. While we were in this situation, the -long-boat was sent ashore with some water casks, and some of the canoes -attempting to follow her, we found it necessary to intimidate them by -firing some small-shot: we were at such a distance that it was -impossible to hurt them, yet our reproof had its effect, and they -desisted from the pursuit. They had some fish in their canoes which they -now offered to sell, and which, though it stunk, we consented to buy: -for this purpose a man in a small boat was sent among them, and they -traded for some time very fairly. At length, however, one of them -watching his opportunity, snatched at some paper which our market-man -held in his hand, and missing it, immediately put himself in a posture -of defence, flourished his patoo-patoo, and making show as if he was -about to strike; some small shot were then fired at him from the ship, a -few of which struck him upon the knee: this put an end to our trade, but -the Indians still continued near the ship, rowing round her many times, -and conversing with Tupia, chiefly concerning the traditions they had -among them with respect to the antiquities of their country. To this -subject they were led by the inquiries which Tupia had been directed to -make, whether they had ever seen such a vessel as ours, or had ever -heard that any such had been upon their coast. These inquiries were all -answered in the negative, so that tradition has preserved among them no -memorial of Tasman; though, by an observation made this day, we find -that we are only fifteen miles south of Murderer’s Bay, our latitude -being 41° 5ʹ 32ʺ, and Murderer’s Bay, according to his account, being -40° 50ʹ. - -The women in these canoes, and some of the men, had a head-dress which -we had not before seen. It consisted of a bunch of black feathers, made -up in a round form, and tied upon the top of the head, which it entirely -covered, and made it twice as high, to appearance, as it was in reality. - -After dinner I went in the pinnace with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, -and some others, into another cove, about two miles distant from that in -which the ship lay: in our way we saw something floating upon the water, -which we took for a dead seal, but upon rowing up to it, found it to be -the body of a woman, which, to all appearance, had been dead some days. -We proceeded to our cove, where we went on shore, and found a small -family of Indians, who appeared to be greatly terrified at our approach, -and all ran away except one. A conversation between this person and -Tupia soon brought back the rest, except an old man and a child, who -still kept aloof, but stood peeping at us from the woods. Of these -people, our curiosity naturally led us to enquire after the body of the -woman, which we had seen floating upon the water: and they acquainted -us, by Tupia, that she was a relation, who had died a natural death; and -that, according to their custom, they had tied a stone to the body, and -thrown it into the sea, which stone, they supposed, had, by some -accident, been disengaged. - -This family, when we came on shore, was employed in dressing some -provisions: the body of a dog was at this time buried in their oven, and -many provision-baskets stood near it. Having cast our eyes carelessly -into one of these, as we passed it, we saw two bones pretty cleanly -picked, which did not seem to be the bones of a dog, and which, upon a -nearer examination, we discovered to be those of a human body. At this -sight we were struck with horror, though it was only a confirmation of -what we had heard many times since we arrived upon this coast. As we -could have no doubt but the bones were human, neither could we have any -doubt but that the flesh which covered them had been eaten. They were -found in a provision basket; the flesh that remained appeared manifestly -to have been dressed by fire, and in the gristles at the end, were the -marks of the teeth which had gnawed them: to put an end, however, to -conjecture, founded upon circumstances and appearances, we directed -Tupia to ask what bones they were; and the Indians, without the least -hesitation, answered, the bones of a man: they were then asked what was -become of the flesh, and they replied that they had eaten it; but, said -Tupia, why did you not eat the body of the woman which we saw floating -upon the water: the woman, said they, died of disease; besides, she was -our relation, and we eat only the bodies of our enemies, who are killed -in battle. Upon enquiry who the man was whose bones we had found, they -told us, that about five days before, a boat belonging to their enemies -came into the bay, with many persons on board, and that this man was of -the seven whom they had killed. Though stronger evidence of this horrid -practice prevailing among the inhabitants of this coast will scarcely be -required, we have still stronger to give. One of us asked if they had -any human bones with the flesh remaining upon them, and upon their -answering us that all had been eaten, we affected to disbelieve that the -bones were human, and said that they were the bones of a dog; upon which -one of the Indians, with some eagerness, took hold of his own fore-arm, -and thrusting it towards us, said, that the bone which Mr. Banks held in -his hand had belonged to that part of the human body; at the same time, -to convince us that the flesh had been eaten, he took hold of his own -arm with his teeth, and made show of eating: he also bit and gnawed the -bone which Mr. Banks had taken, drawing it through his mouth, and -showing, by signs, that it had afforded a delicious repast; the bone was -then returned to Mr. Banks, and he brought it away with him. Among the -persons of this family, there was a woman who had her arms, legs, and -thighs, frightfully cut in several places; and we were told that she had -inflicted the wounds upon herself, in token of her grief for the loss of -her husband, who had been lately killed and eaten by their enemies, who -had come from some place to the eastward, towards which the Indians -pointed. - -The ship lay at the distance of somewhat less than a quarter of a mile -from the shore, and in the morning we were awakened by the singing of -the birds: the number was incredible, and they seemed to strain their -throats in emulation of each other. This wild melody was infinitely -superior to any that we had ever heard of the same kind; it seemed to be -like small bells, most exquisitely tuned, and perhaps the distance, and -the water between, might be no small advantage to the sound. Upon -inquiry, we were informed that the birds here always began to sing about -two hours after midnight, and continuing their music till sunrise, were, -like our nightingales, silent the rest of the day. In the forenoon, a -small canoe came off from the Indian village to the ship, and among -those that were in it, was the old man who had first come on board at -our arrival in the bay. As soon as it came alongside, Tupia renewed the -conversation that had passed the day before, concerning their practice -of eating human flesh, during which they repeated what they had told us -already; but, said Tupia, where are the heads? do you eat them too? Of -the heads, said the old man, we eat only the brains, and the next time I -come I will bring some of them to convince you that what we have told -you is truth. After some farther conversation between these people and -Tupia, they told him that they expected their enemies to come very -shortly, to revenge the death of the seven men whom they had killed and -eaten. - -On the 18th, the Indians were more quiet than usual, no canoe came near -the ship, nor did we see one of them moving on the shore, their fishing, -and other usual occupations being totally suspended. We thought they -expected an attack on this day, and, therefore, attended more diligently -to what passed on shore; but we saw nothing to gratify our curiosity. - -After breakfast, we went out in the pinnace, to take a view of the bay, -which was of vast extent, and consisted of numberless small harbours and -coves, in every direction: we confined our excursion, however, to the -western side, and the country being an impenetrable forest where we -landed, we could see nothing worthy of notice: we killed, however, a -good number of shags, which we saw sitting upon their nests in the -trees, and which, whether roasted or stewed, we considered as very good -provision. As we were returning, we saw a single man in a canoe fishing; -we rowed up to him, and, to our great surprise, he took not the least -notice of us, but even when we were alongside of him, continued to -follow his occupation, without adverting to us any more than if we had -been invisible. He did not, however, appear to be either sullen or -stupid: we requested him to draw up his net, that we might examine it, -and he readily complied: it was of a circular form, extended by two -hoops, and about seven or eight feet in diameter: the top was open, and -sea-ears were fastened to the bottom as a bait: this he let down so as -to lie upon the ground, and when he thought fish enough were assembled -over it, he drew it up by a very gentle and even motion, so that the -fish rose with it, scarcely sensible that they were lifted, till they -came very near the surface of the water, and then were brought out in -the net by a sudden jerk. By this simple method, he had caught abundance -of fish, and, indeed, they are so plenty in this bay, that the catching -them requires neither much labour nor art. - -This day, some of our people found in the skirts of the wood, near a -hole or oven, three human hipbones, which they brought on board; a -farther proof that these people eat human flesh: Mr. Monkhouse, our -surgeon, also brought on board, from a place where he saw many deserted -houses, the hair of a man’s head, which he had found, among many other -things, tied up to the branches of trees. - -In the morning of the 19th, we set up the armourer’s forge to repair the -braces of the tiller, and other iron-work, all hands on board being -still busy in careening, and other necessary operations about the -vessel: this day, some Indians came on board from another part of the -bay, where they said there was a town which we had not seen: they -brought plenty of fish, which they sold for nails, having now acquired -some notion of their use; and in this traffic no unfair practice was -attempted. - -In the morning of the 20th, our old man kept his promise, and brought on -board four of the heads of the seven people who had been so much the -subject of our inquiries: the hair and flesh were entire, but we -perceived that the brains had been extracted; the flesh was soft, but -had by some method been preserved from putrefaction, for it had no -disagreeable smell. Mr. Banks purchased one of them, but they sold it -with great reluctance, and could not by any means be prevailed upon to -part with a second; probably they may be preserved as trophies, like the -scalps in America, and the jaw-bones in the islands of the South Seas. -Upon examining the head which had been bought by Mr. Banks, we perceived -that it had received a blow upon the temples, which had fractured the -skull. This day we made another excursion in the pinnace, to survey the -bay, but we found no flat large enough for a potatoe garden, nor could -we discover the least appearance of cultivation: we met not a single -Indian, but found an excellent harbour; and about eight o’clock in the -evening returned on board the ship. - -On the 21st, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went a fishing with hook and -line, and caught an immense quantity every where upon the rocks, in -between four and five fathom water: the seine was hauled every night, -and seldom failed to supply the whole ship’s company with as much fish -as they could eat. This day all the people had leave to go on shore at -the watering-place, and divert themselves as they should think proper. - -In the morning of the 22d, I set out again in the pinnace, accompanied -by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, with a design to examine the head of the -inlet, but, after rowing about four or five leagues without so much as -coming in sight of it, the wind being contrary, and the day half spent, -we went on shore on the south-east side, to try what might be discovered -from the hills. - -Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander immediately employed themselves in botanizing -near the beach, and I, taking a seaman with me, ascended one of the -hills: when I reached the summit, I found a view of the inlet -intercepted by hills, which in that direction rose still higher, and -which were rendered inaccessible by impenetrable woods; I was, however, -abundantly compensated for my labour, for I saw the sea on the eastern -side of the country, and a passage leading from it to that on the west, -a little to the eastward of the entrance of the inlet where the ship now -lay. The main land, which lay on the south-east of this inlet, appeared -to be a narrow ridge of very high hills, and to form part of the -south-west side of the straight; the land on the opposite side appeared -to trend away east as far as the eye could reach; and to the south-east -there appeared to be an opening to the sea, which washed the eastern -coast: on the east side of the inlet also I saw some islands which I had -before taken to be part of the main land. Having made this discovery, I -descended the hill, and as soon as we had taken some refreshment, we set -out on our return to the ship. In our way, we examined the harbours and -coves which lie behind the islands that I had discovered from the hill; -and in this route we saw an old village, in which there were many houses -that seemed to have been long deserted: we also saw another village -which was inhabited, but the day was too far spent for us to visit it, -and we therefore made the best of our way to the ship, which we reached -between eight and nine o’clock at night. - -The 23d I employed in carrying on a survey of the place; and upon one of -the islands where I landed, I saw many houses which seemed to have been -long deserted, and no appearance of any inhabitant. - -On the 24th, we went to visit our friends at the Hippah or village on -the point of the island near the ship’s station, who had come off to us -on our first arrival in the bay. They received us with the utmost -confidence and civility, showing us every part of their habitations, -which were commodious and neat. The island or rock on which this town is -situated, is divided from the main by a breach or fissure so narrow, -that a man might almost leap from one to the other: the sides of it are -every where so steep as to render the artificial fortification of these -people almost unnecessary: there was, however, one slight pallisade, and -one small fighting-stage, towards that part of the rock where access was -least difficult. - -The people here brought us out several human bones, the flesh of which -they had eaten, and offered them to sale; for the curiosity of those -among us who had purchased them as memorials of the horrid practice -which many, notwithstanding the reports of travellers, have professed -not to believe, had rendered them a kind of article of trade. In one -part of this village, we observed, not without some surprise, a cross -exactly like that of a crucifix; it was adorned with feathers, and upon -our inquiring for what purpose it had been set up, we were told that it -was a monument for a man who was dead: we had before understood that -their dead were not buried, but thrown into the sea; but to our inquiry -how the body of the man had been disposed of, to whose memory this cross -had been erected, they refused to answer. - -When we left these people, we went to the other end of the island, and -there taking water, crossed over to the main, where we saw several -houses, but no inhabitants, except a few in some straggling canoes, that -seemed to be fishing. After viewing this place, we returned on board the -ship to dinner. - -During our visit to the Indians this day, Tupia being always of our -party, they had been observed to be continually talking of guns, and -shooting people: for this subject of their conversation we could not at -all account; and it had so much engaged our attention, that we talked of -it all the way back, and even after we got on board the ship: we had -perplexed ourselves with various conjectures, which were all given up in -their turn; but now we learnt, that on the 21st one of our officers, -upon pretence of going out to fish, had rowed up to the Hippah, and that -two or three canoes coming off towards his boat, his fears suggested -that an attack was intended, in consequence of which three muskets were -fired, one with small shot and two with ball, at the Indians, who -retired with the utmost precipitation, having probably come out with -friendly intentions; for such their behaviour both before and afterwards -expressed; and having no reason to expect such treatment from people who -had always behaved to them not only with humanity but kindness, and to -whom they were not conscious of having given offence. - -On the 25th, I made another excursion along the coast, in the pinnace, -towards the mouth of the inlet, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. -Solander, and going on shore at a little cove, to shoot shags, we fell -in with a large family of Indians, whose custom it is to disperse -themselves among the different creeks and coves, where fish is to be -procured in the greatest plenty, leaving a few only in the hippah, to -which the rest repair in times of danger. Some of these people came out -a good way to meet us, and gave us an invitation to go with them to the -rest of their party, which we readily accepted. We found a company of -about thirty, men, women, and children, who received us with all -possible demonstrations of friendship: we distributed among them a few -ribands and beads, and, in return, received the kisses and embraces of -both sexes, both young and old: they gave us also some fish, and after a -little time we returned, much pleased with our new acquaintance. - -In the morning of the 26th, I went again out in the boat, with Mr. Banks -and Dr. Solander, and entered one of the bays, which lie on the east -side of the inlet, in order to get another sight of the streight, which -passed between the eastern and western seas. For this purpose, having -landed at a convenient place, we climbed a hill of a very considerable -height, from which we had a full view of it, with the land on the -opposite shore, which we judged to be about four leagues distant; but as -it was hazy in the horizon, we could not see far to the south-east: I -resolved, however, to search the passage with the ship, as soon as I -should put to sea. Upon the top of this hill we found a parcel of loose -stones, with which we erected a pyramid, and left in it some musket -balls, small shot, beads, and other things, which we happened to have -about us, that were likely to stand the test of time, and, not being of -Indian workmanship, would convince any European who should come to the -place and pull it down, that other natives of Europe had been there -before him. When this was done, we descended the hill, and made a -comfortable meal of the shags and fish which our guns and lines had -procured us, and which were dressed by the boat’s crew in a place that -we had appointed: in this place we found another Indian family, who -received us, as usual, with strong expressions of kindness and pleasure, -showing us where to procure water, and doing us such other good offices -as were in their power. From this place we went to the town of which the -Indians had told us, who visited us on the 19th; this, like that which -we had seen before, was built upon a small island or rock, so difficult -of access, that we gratified our curiosity at the risk of our necks. The -Indians here also received us with open arms, carried us to every part -of the place, and showed us all that it contained: this town, like the -other, consisted of between eighty and an hundred houses, and had only -one fighting-stage. We happened to have with us a few nails and ribands, -and some paper, with which our guests were so gratified, that at our -coming away they filled our boat with dried fish, of which we perceived -they had laid up great quantities. - -The 27th and 28th were spent in refitting the ship for the sea, fixing a -transom for the tiller, getting stones on board to put into the bottom -of the bread-room, to bring the ship more by the stern, in repairing the -casks, and catching fish. - -On the 29th, we received a visit from our old man, whose name we found -to be TOPĀA, and three other natives, with whom Tupia had much -conversation. The old man told us, that one of the men who had been -fired upon by the officer who had visited their hippah, under pretence -of fishing, was dead; but to my great comfort I afterwards discovered -that this report was not true, and that if Topāa’s discourses were taken -literally, they would frequently lead us into mistakes. Mr. Banks and -Dr. Solander were several times on shore during the last two or three -days, not without success, but greatly circumscribed in their walks, by -climbers of a most luxuriant growth, which were so interwoven together -as to fill up the space between the trees about which they grew, and -render the woods altogether impassable. This day, also, I went on shore -again myself, upon the western point of the inlet, and from a hill of -considerable height I had a view of the coast to the N. W. The farthest -land I could see in that quarter was an island which has been mentioned -before, at the distance of about ten leagues, lying not far from the -main: between this island and the place where I stood, I discovered, -close under the shore, several other islands, forming many bays, in -which there appeared to be good anchorage for shipping. After I had set -off the different points for my survey, I erected another pile of -stones, in which I left a piece of silver coin, with some musket balls -and beads, and a piece of an old pendant flying on the top. In my return -to the ship, I made a visit to several of the natives, whom I saw along -the shore, and purchased a small quantity of fish. - -On the 30th, early in the morning, I sent a boat to one of the islands -for celery, and while the people were gathering it, about twenty of the -natives, men, women, and children, landed near some empty huts: as soon -as they were on shore, five or six of the women sat down upon the ground -together, and began to cut their legs, arms, and faces, with shells, and -sharp pieces of talc or jaspar, in a terrible manner. Our people -understood that their husbands had lately been killed by their enemies: -but, while they were performing this horrid ceremony, the men set about -repairing the huts, with the utmost negligence and unconcern. - -The carpenter having prepared two posts to be left as memorials of our -having visited this place, I ordered them to be inscribed with the -ship’s name, and the year and month: one of them I set up at the -watering-place, hoisting the Union-flag upon the top of it; and the -other I carried over to the island that lies nearest to the sea, called -by the natives MOTUARA. I went first to the village or hippah, -accompanied by Mr. Monkhouse and Tupia, where I met with our old man, -and told him and several others, by means of Tupia, that we were come to -set up a mark upon the island, in order to show to any other ship which -should happen to come thither, that we had been there before. To this -they readily consented, and promised that they never would pull it down: -I then gave something to every one present; and to the old man I gave a -silver three-pence, dated 1736, and some spike-nails, with the king’s -broad arrow cut deep upon them; things which I thought most likely to -remain long among them: I then took the post to the highest part of the -island, and, after fixing it firmly in the ground, I hoisted upon it the -Union-flag, and honoured this inlet with the name of QUEEN CHARLOTTE’S -SOUND; at the same time taking formal possession of this and the -adjacent country, in the name and for the use of his Majesty King George -the Third. We then drank a bottle of wine to her Majesty’s health, and -gave the bottle to the old man who had attended us up the hill, and who -was mightily delighted with his present. - -While the post was setting up, we enquired of the old man concerning the -passage into the eastern sea, the existence of which he confirmed; and -then asked him about the land to the S. W. of the streight, where we -were then situated: this land, he said, consisted of two whennuas or -islands, which may be circumnavigated in a few days, and which he called -TOVY POENAMMOO: the literal translation of this word is, “the water of -green talc;” and probably if we had understood him better, we should -have found that Tovy Poenammoo was the name of some particular place -where they got the green talc or stone of which they make their -ornaments and tools, and not a general name for the whole southern -district: he said there was also a third whennua, on the east side of -the streight, the circumnavigation of which would take up many moons: -this he called EAHEINOMAUWE; and to the land on the borders of the -streight he gave the name of TIERA WITTE. Having set up our post, and -procured this intelligence, we returned on board the ship, and brought -the old man with us, who was attended by his canoe, in which, after -dinner, he returned home. - -On the 31st, having completed our wooding, and filled all our -water-casks, I sent out two parties, one to cut and make brooms, and -another to catch fish. In the evening we had a strong gale from the N. -W., with such a heavy rain, that our little wild musicians on shore -suspended their song, which till now we had constantly heard during the -night, with a pleasure which it was impossible to lose without regret. - -On the 1st, the gale increased to a storm, with heavy gusts from the -high land, one of which broke the hawser that we had fastened to the -shore, and obliged us to let go another anchor. Towards midnight, the -gale became more moderate, but the rain continued with such violence, -that the brook which had supplied us with water overflowed its banks, -and carried away ten small casks which had been left there full of -water, and, notwithstanding we searched the whole cove, we could never -recover one of them. - -On the 3d, as I intended to sail the first opportunity, I went over to -the hippah on the east side of the Sound, and purchased a considerable -quantity of split and half-dried fish, for sea-stores. The people here -confirmed all that the old man had told us concerning the streight and -the country, and about noon I took leave of them: some of them seemed to -be sorry, and others glad, that we were going: the fish which I had -bought they sold freely, but there were some who showed manifest signs -of disapprobation. As we returned to the ship, some of us made an -excursion along the shore to the northward, to traffic with the natives -for a farther supply of fish; in which, however, they had no great -success. In the evening we got every thing off from the shore, as I -intended to sail in the morning, but the wind would not permit. - -On the 4th, while we were waiting for a wind, we amused ourselves by -fishing, and gathering shells and seeds of various kinds; and early in -the morning of the 5th, we cast off the hawser, hove short on the bower, -and carried the kedge-anchor out, in order to warp the ship out of the -cove, which having done, about two o’clock in the afternoon, we hove up -the anchor and got under sail; but the wind soon failing, we were -obliged to come to an anchor again a little above Motuara. When we were -under sail, our old man, Topāa, came on board to take his leave of us; -and as we were still desirous of making farther enquiries whether any -memory of Tasman had been preserved among these people, Tupia was -directed to ask him whether he had ever heard that such a vessel as ours -had before visited the country. To this he replied in the negative; but -said that his ancestors had told him there had once come to this place a -small vessel, from a distant country, called ULIMAROA, in which were -four men, who, upon their coming on shore, were all killed: upon being -asked where this distant land lay, he pointed to the northward. Of -Ulimaroa we had heard something before, from the people about the Bay of -Islands, who said that their ancestors had visited it; and Tupia had -also talked to us of Ulimaroa, concerning which he had some confused -traditionary notions, not very different from those of our old man, so -that we could draw no certain conclusion from the accounts of either. - -Soon after the ship came to an anchor the second time, Mr. Banks and Dr. -Solander went on shore, to see if any gleanings of natural knowledge -remained; and by accident fell in with the most agreeable Indian family -they had seen, which afforded them a better opportunity of remarking the -personal subordination among these people than had before offered. The -principal persons were a widow, and a pretty boy about ten years old: -the widow was mourning for her husband with tears of blood, according to -their custom, and the child, by the death of its father, was become -proprietor of the land where we had cut our wood. The mother and the son -were sitting upon mats, and the rest of the family, to the number of -sixteen or seventeen, of both sexes, sat round them in the open air, for -they did not appear to have any house, or other shelter from the -weather, the inclemencies of which custom has probably enabled them to -endure without any lasting inconvenience. Their whole behaviour was -affable, obliging, and unsuspicious: they presented each person with -fish, and a brand of fire to dress it, and pressed them many times to -stay till the morning, which they would certainly have done if they had -not expected the ship to sail, greatly regretting that they had not -become acquainted with them sooner, as they made no doubt but that more -knowledge of the manners and disposition of the inhabitants of this -country would have been obtained from them in a day than they had yet -been able to acquire during our whole stay upon the coast. - -On the 6th, about six o’clock in the morning, a light breeze sprung up -at north, and we again got under sail; but the wind proving variable, we -reached no farther than just without Motuara; in the afternoon, however, -a more steady gale at N. by W. set us clear of the Sound, which I shall -now describe. - -The entrance of Queen Charlotte’s Sound is situated in latitude 41° S., -longitude 184° 45ʹ W., and near the middle of the south-west side of the -streight in which it lies. The land of the south-east head of the Sound, -called by the natives KOAMAROO, off which lie two small islands and some -rocks, makes the narrowest part of the streight. From the north-west -head a reef of rocks runs out about two miles, in the direction of N. E. -by N.; part of which is above the water, and part below. By this account -of the heads, the Sound will be sufficiently known: at the entrance it -is three leagues broad, and lies in S. W. by S. S. W. and W. S. W. at -least ten leagues, and is a collection of some of the finest harbours in -the world, as will appear from the plan, which is laid down with all the -accuracy that time and circumstances would admit. The land forming the -harbour or cove in which we lay, is called by the natives TOTARRANUE: -the harbour itself, which I called SHIP COVE, is not inferior to any in -the Sound, either for convenience or safety: it lies on the west side of -the Sound, and is the southernmost of three coves, that are situated -within the island of Motuara, which bears east of it. Ship Cove may be -entered, either between Motuara and a long island, called by the natives -HAMOTE, or between Motuara and the western shore. In the last of these -channels are two ledges of rocks, three fathom under water, which may -easily be known by the sea-weed that grows upon them. In sailing either -in or out of the Sound, with little wind, attention must be had to the -tides, which flow about nine or ten o’clock at the full and change of -the moon, and rise and fall between seven and eight feet -perpendicularly. The flood comes in through the streight from the S. E. -and sets strongly over upon the north-west head, and the reef that lies -off it: the ebb sets with still greater rapidity to the S. E. over upon -the rocks and islands that lie off the south-east head. The variation of -the compass we found, from good observation, to be 13° 5ʹ E. - -The land about this Sound, which is of such a height that we saw it at -the distance of twenty-leagues, consists wholly of high hills and deep -valleys, well stored with a variety of excellent timber, fit for all -purposes except masts, for which it is too hard and heavy. The sea -abounds with a variety of fish, so that, without going out of the cove -where we lay, we caught every day, with the seine and hooks and lines, a -quantity sufficient to serve the whole ship’s company; and along the -shore we found plenty of shags, and a few other species of wild-fowl, -which those who have long lived upon salt provisions will not think -despicable food. - -The number of inhabitants scarcely exceeds four hundred, and they live -dispersed along the shores, where their food, consisting of fish and -fern roots, is most easily procured; for we saw no cultivated ground. -Upon any appearance of danger, they retire to their hippahs, or forts: -in this situation we found them, and in this situation they continued -for some time after our arrival. In comparison of the inhabitants of -other parts of this country, they are poor, and their canoes are without -ornament: the little traffic we had with them was wholly for fish; and -indeed they had scarcely any thing else to dispose of. They seemed, -however, to have some knowledge of iron, which the inhabitants of some -other parts had not; for they willingly took nails for their fish, and -sometimes seemed to prefer it to every thing else that we could offer, -which had not always been the case. They were at first very fond of -paper; but when they found that it was spoiled by being wet, they would -not take it: neither did they set much value upon the cloth of Otaheite; -but English broad cloth and red kersey were in high estimation; which -showed that they had sense enough to appreciate the commodities which we -offered by their use, which is more than could be said of some of their -neighbours, who made a much better appearance. Their dress has been -mentioned already, particularly their large round head-dresses of -feathers, which were far from being unbecoming. - -As soon as we got out of the Sound, I stood over to the eastward, in -order to get the streight well open before the tide of ebb came on. At -seven in the evening, the two small islands which lie off Cape Koamaroo, -the south-east head of Queen Charlotte’s Sound, bore east, distant about -four miles: at this time it was nearly calm, and the tide of ebb setting -out, we were, in a very short time, carried by the rapidity of the -stream close upon one of the islands, which was a rock rising almost -perpendicularly out of the sea: we perceived our danger increase every -moment, and had but one expedient to prevent our being dashed to pieces, -the success of which a few minutes would determine. We were now within -little more than a cable’s length of the rock, and had more than -seventy-five fathom water; but upon dropping an anchor, and veering -about one hundred and fifty fathom of cable, the ship was happily -brought up: this, however, would not have saved us, if the tide which -set S. by E. had not, upon meeting with the island, changed its -direction to S. E. and carried us beyond the first point. In this -situation, we were not above two cables’ length from the rocks; and here -we remained in the strength of the tide, which set to the S. E. after -the rate of at least five miles an hour, from a little after seven till -near midnight, when the tide abated, and we began to heave. By three in -the morning the anchor was at the bows, and having a light breeze at N. -W. we made sail for the eastern shore; but the tide being against us, we -made but little way: the wind, however, afterwards freshened, and came -to N. and N. E. with which, and the tide of ebb, we were in a short time -hurried through the narrowest part of the streight, and then stood away -for the southernmost land we had in sight, which bore from us S. by W. -Over this land appeared a mountain of stupendous height, which was -covered with snow. - -The narrowest part of the streight, through which we had been driven -with such rapidity, lies between Cape Tierawitte, on the coast of -Eaheinomauwe, and Cape Koamaroo: the distance between them I judged to -be between four or five leagues, and, notwithstanding the tide, now its -strength is known, may be passed without much danger. It is, however, -safest to keep on the north-east shore, for on that side there appeared -to be nothing to fear; but on the other shore there are not only the -islands and rocks which lie off Cape Koamaroo, but a reef of rocks -stretching from these islands six or seven miles to the southward, at -the distance of two or three miles from the shore, which I had -discovered from the hill when I took my second view of the streight from -the east to the western sea. The length of the streight we had passed, I -shall not pretend to assign, but some judgment may be formed of it from -a view of the chart. - -About nine leagues north from Cape Tierawitte, and under the same shore, -is a high and remarkable island which may be distinctly seen from Queen -Charlotte’s Sound, from which it is distant about six or seven leagues. -This island, which was noticed when we passed it on the 14th of January, -I have called ENTRY ISLE. - -On the east side of Cape Tierawitte, the land trends away S. E. by E. -about eight leagues, where it ends in a point, and is the southernmost -land on Eaheinomauwe. To this point I have given the name of CAPE -PALLISER, in honour of my worthy friend Captain Palliser. It lies in -latitude 41° 34ʹ S., longitude 183° 58ʹ W., and bore from us this day at -noon S. 79 E. distant about thirteen leagues, the ship being then in the -latitude of 41° 27ʹ S.; Koamaroo at the same time bearing N. ½ E. -distant seven or eight leagues. The southernmost land in sight bore S. -16 W. and the snowy mountain S. W. At this time we were about three -leagues from the shore, and abreast of a deep bay or inlet, to which I -gave the name of CLOUDY BAY, and at the bottom of which there appeared -low land covered with tall trees. - -At three o’clock in the afternoon we were abreast of the southernmost -point of land that we had seen at noon, which I called CAPE CAMPBELL: it -lies S. by W. distant between twelve and thirteen leagues from Cape -Koamaroo, in latitude 41° 44ʹ S., longitude 183° 45ʹ W.; and with Cape -Palliser forms the southern entrance of the straight, the distance -between them being between thirteen and fourteen leagues W. by S. and E. -by N. - -From this Cape we steered along the shore S. W. by S. till eight o’clock -in the evening, when the wind died away. About half an hour afterwards, -however, afresh breeze sprung up at S. W., and I put the ship right -before it. My reason for this was a notion which some of the officers -had just started, that Eaheinomauwe was not an island, and that the land -might stretch away to the S. E. from between Cape Turnagain and Cape -Palliser, there being a space of between twelve and fifteen leagues that -we had not seen. I had, indeed, the strongest conviction that they were -mistaken, not only from what I had seen the first time I discovered the -straight, but from many other concurrent testimonies, that the land in -question was an island; but being resolved to leave no possibility of -doubt with respect to an object of such importance, I took the -opportunity of the wind’s shifting, to stand eastward, and accordingly -steered N. E. by E. all the night. At nine o’clock in the morning we -were abreast of Cape Palliser, and found the land trend away N. E. -towards Cape Turnagain, which I reckoned to be distant about twenty-six -leagues: however, as the weather was hazy, so as to prevent our seeing -above four or five leagues, I still kept standing to the N. E. with a -light breeze at south; and at noon Cape Palliser bore N. 72 W. distant -about three leagues. - -About three o’clock in the afternoon three canoes came up to the ship -with between thirty and forty people on board, who had been pulling -after us with great labour and perseverance for some time: they appeared -to be more cleanly, and a better class, than any we had met with since -we left the Bay of Islands; and their canoes were also distinguished by -the same ornaments which we had seen upon the northernly part of the -coast. They came on board with very little invitation; and their -behaviour was courteous and friendly. Upon receiving presents from us, -they made us presents in return, which had not been done by any of the -natives that we had seen before. We soon perceived that our guests had -heard of us, for as soon as they came on board, they asked for _Whow_, -the name by which nails were known among the people with whom we had -trafficked: but though they had heard of nails, it was plain they had -seen none; for when nails were given them, they asked Tupia what they -were. The term _Whow_, indeed, conveyed to them the idea not of their -quality, but only of their use; for it is the same by which they -distinguish a tool, commonly made of bone, which they use both as an -auger and a chisel. However, their knowing that we had _whow_ to sell, -was a proof that their connections extended as far north as Cape -Kidnappers, which was distant no less than forty-five leagues; for that -was the southernmost place on this side the coast where we had had any -traffic with the natives. It is also probable, that the little knowledge -which the inhabitants of Queen Charlotte’s Sound had of iron, they -obtained from their neighbours at Tierawitte; for we had no reason to -think that the inhabitants of any part of this coast had the least -knowledge of iron or its use before we came among them, especially as, -when it was first offered, they seemed to disregard it as of no value. -We thought it probable, that we were now once more in the territories of -Teratu; but upon enquiring of these people, they said that he was not -their king. After a short time, they went away, much gratified with the -presents that we had made them; and we pursued our course along the -shore to the N. E. till eleven o’clock the next morning. About this -time, the weather happening to clear up, we saw Cape Turnagain, bearing -N. by E. ½ E. at the distance of about seven leagues: I then called the -officers upon deck, and asked them, whether they were not now satisfied -that Eahienomauwe was an island: they readily answered in the -affirmative; and all doubts being now removed, we hauled our wind to the -eastward. - - - END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. - - - Printed by A. and R. Spottiswoode, - Printers-Street, London. - -Footnote 1: - - The celebrated navigator who discovered this streight was a native of - Portugal, and his name, in the language of his country, was _Fernando - de Magalhaens_; the Spaniards call him _Hernando Magalhanes_, and the - French _Magellan_, which is the orthography that has been generally - adopted: a gentleman, the fifth in descent from this great adventurer, - is now living in or near London, and communicated the true name of his - ancestor to Mr. Banks, with a request that it might be inserted in - this work. - - - - - Transcriber’s Note - - -This book uses inconsistent spelling and hyphenation, which were -retained in the ebook version. Some corrections have been made to the -text, including such as normalizing punctuation. Further corrections are -noted below: - - p. 9: appearance; the the sides -> appearance; the sides - p. 26: whereever I went -> wherever I went - p. 29: some doubs whether -> some doubts whether - p. 36: as to to declare -> as to declare - Caption to illustration facing p. 84: Otahiete -> Otaheite - p. 174: by a a succession -> by a succession - p. 178: tellting us, that they -> telling us, that they - p. 190: not sraight lines -> not straight lines - p. 200: sucks it into his month -> sucks it into his mouth - p. 222: inhabiants of Otaheite -> inhabitants of Otaheite - p. 240: the cermony of lowering -> the ceremony of lowering - p. 240: to day -> to-day - p. 279: for our our landing -> for our landing - p. 295: wind being right an end -> wind being right on end - p. 309: the sun’s meridan -> the sun’s meridian - p. 310: their is no quarter -> there is no quarter - p. 316: lobsters and muscles -> lobsters and mussels - p. 320: the nothernmost of the Court -> the northernmost of the Court - p. 333: the botton to the top -> the bottom to the top - p. 361: discovered by Tafman -> discovered by Tasman - p. 365: by obervation -> by observation - p. 380: continued to folllow -> continued to follow - p. 397: they aked for -> they asked for - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Three Voyages of Captain Cook -Round the World. 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