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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3f48f5e --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #56042 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/56042) diff --git a/old/56042-0.txt b/old/56042-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index f1ea706..0000000 --- a/old/56042-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11723 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, Discovery of the Yosemite, by Lafayette -Houghton Bunnell - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: Discovery of the Yosemite - And the Indian War of 1851, Which Led to That Event - - -Author: Lafayette Houghton Bunnell - - - -Release Date: November 24, 2017 [eBook #56042] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE*** - - -E-text prepared by Bryan Ness, Wayne Hammond, and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made -available by HathiTrust Digital Library (https://www.hathitrust.org/) - - - -Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this - file which includes the original illustrations. - See 56042-h.htm or 56042-h.zip: - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/56042/56042-h/56042-h.htm) - or - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/56042/56042-h.zip) - - - Images of the original pages are available through - HathiTrust Digital Library. See - https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/009571617 - - - - - -[Illustration: _L. H. Bunnell_] - - -DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE, - -And the Indian War of 1851, Which Led to That Event. - -by - -LAFAYETTE HOUGHTON BUNNELL, M.D., - -Of the Mariposa Battalion, One of the Discoverers, -Late Surgeon Thirty-Sixth Regiment -Wisconsin Volunteers. - -Third Edition--Revised And Corrected. - - - - - - -Fleming H. Revell Company, -New York: | Chicago: -30 Union Square: East. | 148 and 150 Madison St. - -Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1880-1892, by -L. H. Bunnell, -In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. - - - DEDICATION. - - TO THE - - HON. CHARLES H. BERRY, - - THIS BOOK, - - IN REMEMBRANCE OF KINDLY SUGGESTIONS, - - IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED. - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. - - - PAGE - - I. MAPS FRONTISPIECE. - - II. PORTRAIT - - III. THE YOSEMITE VALLEY 13 - - IV. EL CAPITAN 54 - - V. BRIDAL VEIL FALL 59 - - VI. HALF DOME 74 - - VII. NORTH DOME AND ROYAL ARCHES 75 - - VIII. CATHEDRAL ROCKS 77 - - IX. GLACIER FALL 84 - - X. VERNAL FALL AND ROUND RAINBOW 86 - - XI. NEVADA FALL 87 - - XII. CACHES, OR ACORN STOREHOUSES 129 - - FIRE STICK 134 - - XIII. THREE BROTHERS 146 - - XIV. YOSEMITE FALL 166 - - XV. MIRROR LAKE 204 - - XVI. SENTINEL ROCK 213 - - XVII. THE INDIAN BELLE 219 - - XVIII. LAKE TEN-IE-YA 236 - - XIX. LAKE STARR KING 290 - - XX. BIG TREE 333 - - XXI. RIDING THROUGH A TREE TRUNK 339 - - TUNNELED TREE 340 - - - - - CONTENTS. - - - CHAPTER I. - - Incidents leading to the Discovery of the Yosemite - Valley--Major Savage and Savages--Whiskey, Wrangling and - War--Skinned Alive--A brisk Fight--Repulse--Another Fight, and - Conflagration 1 - - - CHAPTER II. - - The Governor of California issues a Proclamation--Formation of - the Mariposa Battalion--The Origin and Cause of the War--New - Material Public Documents--A Discussion--Capt. Walker--The - Peace Commissioners’ Parley and the Indians’ Pow-wow--The - Mysterious Deep Valley--Forward, March! 29 - - - CHAPTER III. - - March Down the South Fork--Capture of an Indian Village--Hungry - Men--An able Surgeon--Snow Storms--Visit of Ten-ie-ya, Chief - of the Yosemites--Commander’s Dilemma--Unique Manner of - Extrication--Approaching the Valley--First View--Sensations - Experienced--A Lofty Flight Brought Down 40 - - - CHAPTER IV. - - Naming the Valley--Signification and Origin of the Word--Its - proper Pronunciation: Yo-sem-i-ty--Mr. Hutchings and - Yo-Ham-i-te--His Restoration of Yo-sem-i-te 57 - - - CHAPTER V. - - Date of Discovery--First White Visitors--Captain Joe - Walker’s Statement--Ten-ie-ya’s Cunning--Indian Tradition--A - Lying Guide--The Ancient Squaw--Destroying Indian - Stores--Sweat-houses--The Mourner’s Toilet--Sentiment and - Reality--Return to Head-quarters, 70 - - - CHAPTER VI. - - Out of Provisions--A Hurried Move--Mills where Indians take - their Grists, and Pots in which they Boil their Food--Advance - Movement of Captain Dill--A Hungry Squad--Enjoyment--Neglect - of Duty--Escape of Indians--Following their Trail--A - Sorrowful Captain--A Mystery made Clear--Duplicity of the - Chow-chillas--Vow-chester’s Good-will Offering--Return of the - Fugitives--Major Savage as Agent and Interpreter 92 - - - CHAPTER VII. - - Campaign against the Chow-chillas--The Favorite Hunting - Ground--A Deer Hunt and a Bear _Chase_--An Accident and an - Alarm--A Torch-light Pow-wow--Indians Discovered--Captain - Boling’s Speech--Crossing of the San Joaquin--A Line of Battle, - its Disappearance--Capture of Indian Village--Jose Rey’s - Funeral-pyre--Following the Trail--A Dilemma--Sentiment and - Applause--Returning to Camp--Narrow Escape of Captain Boling 105 - - - CHAPTER VIII. - - A Camp Discussion--War or Police Clubs--Jack Regrets a Lost - Opportunity--Boling’s Soothing Syrup--A Scribe Criticises - and Apologises--Indian War Material and its Manufacture--The - Fire-stick and its Sacred Uses--Arrival at Head-quarters 123 - - - CHAPTER IX. - - Starvation Subdues the Chow-chillas, and the Result is - Peace--Captain Kuykendall’s Expeditions--An Attack--Rout - and Pursuit--A Wise Conclusion--Freezing out Indians--A - Wild Country--A Terrific View--Yosemite _versus_ King’s - River--Submission of the Indians South of the San - Joaquin--Second Expedition to Yosemite--Daring Scouts--Capture - of Indians--Naming of “Three Brothers” 135 - - - CHAPTER X. - - A General Scout--An Indian Trap--Flying Artillery--A - Narrow Escape--A Tragic Scene--Fortunes of War--A Scout’s - Description--Recovery from a Sudden Leap--Surrounded by - Enemies 148 - - - CHAPTER XI. - - Camp Amusements--A Lost Arrow--Escape of a Prisoner--Escape - of Another--Shooting of the Third--Indian Diplomacy--Taking - His Own Medicine--Ten-ie-ya Captured--Grief over the Death - of His Son--Appetite under Adverse Circumstances--Poetry - Dispelled--Really a Dirty Indian 160 - - - CHAPTER XII. - - Bears and Other Game--Sickness of Captain - Boling--Convalescence and Determination--A Guess at - Heights--A Tired Doctor and a Used-up Captain--Surprising an - Indian--Know-nothingness, or Native Americanism--A Clue and - Discovery--A Short-cut to Camp, but an Unpopular Route 175 - - - CHAPTER XIII. - - The Indian Names--Difficulty of their - Interpretation--Circumstances Suggesting Names of Vernal, - Nevada and Bridal Veil Falls--Mr. Richardson’s Descriptions - of the Falls and Round Rainbow--Py-we-ack Misplaced, and - “_Illiluette_” an Absurdity--An English Name Suggested for - Too-lool-lo-we-ack, Pohono and Tote-ack-ah-nü-la--Indian - Superstitions and Spiritual Views--A Free National Park - Desirable--Off on the Trail 198 - - - CHAPTER XIV. - - A Mountain Storm--Delay of Supplies--Clams and - Ipecac--Arrival of Train--A Cute Indian--Indian Sagacity--A - Dangerous Weapon--Capture of Indian Village--An Eloquent - Chief--Woman’s Rights _versus_ Squaw’s Wrongs--A Disturbed - Family--A Magnificent Sunrise--On a Slippery Slope--Sentiment - and Poetry--Arrival at the Fresno 222 - - - CHAPTER XV. - - The Flora of the Region of the Yosemite--General - Description of the Valley and its Principal Points of - Interest, with their Heights 240 - - - CHAPTER XVI. - - A Trip to Los Angeles--Interview with Colonel McKee--A - Night at Colonel Fremont’s Camp--Management of Cattle by - the Colonel’s Herdsmen--Back to Los Angeles--Specimen - Bricks of the Angel City--An Addition to our Party--Mules - _versus_ Bears--Don Vincente--A Silver Mine--Mosquitos--A Dry - Bog--Return to Fresno--Muster out of Battalion--A Proposition 257 - - - CHAPTER XVII. - - Captain Boling elected Sheriff--Appointment of Indian - Agents--Ten-ie-ya allowed to Return to Yosemite--Murder - of Visitors--Lieut. Moore’s Expedition and Punishment - of Murderers--Gold Discoveries on Eastern Slope of - Sierras--Report of Expedition, and First _Published_ Notice - of Yosemite--Squatter Sovereignty--Assault upon King’s River - Reservation--The supposed Leader, Harvey, Denounced by Major - Savage--A Rencounter, and Death of Savage--Harvey Liberated - by a Friendly Justice--An Astute Superintendent--A Mass - Meeting--A Rival Aspirant--Indians and Indian Policy 272 - - - CHAPTER XVIII. - - Murder of Starkey--Death of Ten-ie-ya and Extinction of his - Band--A few Surviving Murderers--An Attempt at Reformation--A - Failure and Loss of a Mule--Murders of Robert D. Sevil and - Robert Smith--Alarm of the People--A False Alarm 291 - - - CHAPTER XIX. - - Engineering and History--Speculation and Discouragement--A - New Deal--Wall Street--A Primitive Bridge--First Woman in - the Yosemite--Lady Visitors from Mariposa and Lady Teachers - from San Francisco--Measurements of Heights--First Houses and - their Occupants--A Gay Party and a Glorious Feast 301 - - - CHAPTER XX. - - Golden Theories and Glaciers 319 - - - CHAPTER XXI. - - Big Trees of California or Sequoia Gigantea--Their Discovery - and Classification 333 - - - CHAPTER XXII. - - Statistics--Roads and Accommodations--Chapel and Sunday - School--Big Farms and Great Resources--A Variety of - Products--Long Hoped for Results 343 - - -[Illustration: - - By Courtesy of the Publishers.] - -[Illustration: - - MAP OF THE YO SEMITE NATIONAL PARK - - SITUATED IN TUOLUMNE, MARIPOSA, FRESNO, AND MONO COUNTIES, STATE OF - CALIFORNIA. - - _COMPRISING 42 TOWNSHIPS, COVERING AN AREA OF ABOUT 1,500 SQUARE - MILES, BEING APPROXIMATELY 960,000 ACRES OF LAND; LESS 36,111 ACRES - CONTAINED IN THE “YO SEMITE VALLEY GRANT.” ABOUT 700,000 ACRES OF THE - “YO SEMITE NATIONAL PARK” IS MOUNTAINOUS, WELL WATERED, AND HEAVILY - TIMBERED WITH PINE, FIR, SPRUCE, HEMLOCK, TAMARACK, OAK, CEDAR, - MADROÑA, LAUREL, SEQUOIAS, AND MOUNTAIN MAHOGANY. 260,000 ACRES - COMPOSED OF MOUNTAIN VALLEYS, MEADOWS, LAKES, STREAMS, E.T.C._ - - _Copyrighted 1892_] - - - - -INTRODUCTION. - - -The book here presented is the result of an attempt to correct existing -errors relative to the Yosemite Valley. It was originally designed to -compress the matter in this volume within the limits of a magazine -article, but this was soon found to be impracticable; and, at the -suggestion of Gen. C. H. Berry, of Winona, Minnesota, it was decided to -“write a book.” - -This, too, proved more difficult than at first appeared. - -Born in Rochester, New York, in 1824, and carried to Western wilds in -1833, the writer’s opportunities for culture were limited; and in this, -his first attempt at authorship, he has found that the experiences -of frontier life are not the best preparations for literary effort. -Beside this, he had mainly to rely upon his own resources, for nothing -could be obtained in the archives of California that could aid him. -It was not deemed just that California should forget the deeds of men -who had subdued her savages, and discovered her most sublime scenery. -Having been a member of the “Mariposa Battalion,” and with it when the -Yosemite was discovered, having suggested its name, and named many of -the principal objects of interest in and near the valley, it seemed -a duty that the writer owed his comrades and himself, to give the -full history of these events. Many of the facts incident thereto have -already been given to the public by the author at various times since -1851, but these have been so mutilated or blended with fiction, that a -renewed and full statement of facts concerning that remarkable locality -seems desirable. - -While engaged upon this work, the writer was aided by the scientific -researches of Prof. J. D. Whitney, and by the “acute and helpful -criticism” of Doctor James M. Cole of Winona, Minnesota. - -Since the publication of the second edition of this book, and an -article from the author’s pen in the _Century_ Magazine for September, -1890, numerous letters of approval from old comrades have been -received, and a few dates obtained from old official correspondence -that will now be introduced. - -In addition to what may properly belong to this history, there have -been introduced a few remarks concerning the habits and character of -the Indians. This subject is not _entirely new_, but the opinions -expressed are the results of many years acquaintance with various -tribes, and may be useful. - -The incidental remarks about game will probably interest some. To the -author, the study of nature in all its aspects has been interesting. - -The author’s views regarding the gold deposits and glaciers of the -Sierras are given simply as suggestions. - -His especial efforts have been directed to the placing on record -events connected with the _discovery_ of the Yosemite, for description -of its scenery he feels to be impossible. In reverent acknowledgment -of this, there are submitted as a prologue, some lines written while -contemplating the grandeur of his subject. - - -WONDER LAND. - - Hail thee, Yosemite, park of sublimity! - Majesty, peerless and old! - Ye mountains and cliffs, ye valleys and rifts. - Ye cascades and cataracts bold! - None, none can divine the wonders of thine, - When told of the glorious view! - The wild world of light--from “Beatitude’s” height, - Old “Rock Chief,”[1] “El Capitan” true! - - Thy head proud and high! white brow to the sky! - Thy features the thunderbolts dare! - Thou o’erlookest the wall would the boldest appal - Who enter Yosemite’s “Lair.”[2] - Fair “Bridal Veil Fall!” the queen over all, - In beauty and grace intertwined! - Even now from thy height water-rockets of light - Dart away, and seem floating in wind! - - And thou, high “Scho-look!” proud “Ah-wah-ne!” invoke - To receive from “Kay-o-pha”[3] a boon! - That flowing from pines, in the region of vines, - May temper the heat of bright noon. - “Nevada” and “Vernal,” emblems eternal - Of winter and loveliest Spring, - No language so bold the truth can unfold-- - No pen can thee offerings bring! - - And yet dare I say, of the cool “Vernal Spray,” - In the flash of the bright sun’s power, - I welcome thy “ring,”[4] though a drenching it bring, - The smile of a god’s in the shower! - And thou, “Glacier Fall,”[5] from thy adamant wall, - And winter-bound lakes at thy head-- - Thy nymphs never seen, except by the sheen - So fitful from “Mirror Lake’s” bed. - - Ye North and South Domes,[6] “Ten-ie-ya’s” lake homes, - “Cloud’s Rest,” and high “Tis-sa-ack” lone; - Mute “Sentinel,” “Brothers,” ye “Starr King,” ye others-- - Oh! what of the past have ye known? - To you has been given the mission from heaven - To watch through the ages of earth! - Your presence sublime is the chronicled time, - From the æon the world had birth! - -[Illustration: VIEW OF THE YOSEMITE. - -Looking up the valley from a height of about 1,000 feet above the -Merced River, and above sea level 5,000 feet, giving some faint idea -of the beauty, grandeur and magnitude of this magnificent work of -nature.] - - - - -DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - Incidents leading to the discovery of the Yosemite Valley--Major - Savage and Savages--Whiskey, wrangling and War--Skinned Alive--A - brisk Fight--Repulse--Another Fight, and Conflagration. - - -During the winter of 1849-50, while ascending the old Bear Valley trail -from Ridley’s ferry, on the Merced river, my attention was attracted -to the stupendous rocky peaks of the Sierra Nevadas. In the distance -an immense cliff loomed, apparently to the summit of the mountains. -Although familiar with nature in her wildest moods, I looked upon -this awe-inspiring column with wonder and admiration. While vainly -endeavoring to realize its peculiar prominence and vast proportions, -I turned from it with reluctance to resume the search for coveted -gold; but the impressions of that scene were indelibly fixed in my -memory. Whenever an opportunity afforded, I made inquiries concerning -the scenery of that locality. But few of the miners had noticed any -of its special peculiarities. On a second visit to Ridley’s, not long -after, that towering mountain which had so profoundly interested me was -invisible, an intervening haze obscuring it from view. A year or more -passed before the mysteries of this wonderful land were satisfactorily -solved. - -During the winter of 1850-51, I was attached to an expedition that made -the first discovery of what is now known as the Yosemite Valley. While -entering it, I saw at a glance that the reality of my sublime vision -at Ridley’s ferry, forty miles away, was before me. The locality of -the mysterious cliff was there revealed--its proportions enlarged and -perfected. - -The discovery of this remarkable region was an event intimately -connected with the history of the early settlement of that portion of -California. During 1850, the Indians in Mariposa county, which at that -date included all the territory south of the divide of the Tuolumne -and Merced rivers within the valley proper of the San Joaquin, became -very troublesome to the miners and settlers. Their depredations and -murderous assaults were continued until the arrival of the United -States Indian commissioners, in 1851, when the general government -assumed control over them. Through the management of the commissioners, -treaties were made, and many of these Indians were transferred to -locations reserved for their special occupancy. - -It was in the early days of the operations of this commission that the -Yosemite Valley was first entered by a command virtually employed to -perform the special police duties of capturing and bringing the Indians -before these representatives of the government, in order that treaties -might be made with them. These wards of the general government were -provided with supplies at the expense of the public treasury: provided -that they confined themselves to the reservations selected for them. - -My recollections of those early days are from personal observations -and information derived from the earlier settlers of the San Joaquin -valley, with whom I was personally acquainted in the mining camps, and -through business connections; and also from comrades in the Indian war -of 1850-51. Among these settlers was one James D. Savage, a trader, -who in 1849-50 was located in the mountains near the mouth of the South -Fork of the Merced river, some fifteen miles below the Yosemite valley. - -At this point, engaged in gold mining, he had employed a party of -native Indians. Early in the season of 1850 his trading post and mining -camp were attacked by a band of the Yosemite Indians. This tribe, -or band, claimed the territory in that vicinity, and attempted to -drive Savage off. Their real object, however, was plunder. They were -considered treacherous and dangerous, and were very troublesome to the -miners generally. - -Savage and his Indian miners repulsed the attack and drove off the -marauders, but from this occurrence he no longer deemed this location -desirable. Being fully aware of the murderous propensities of his -assailants, he removed to Mariposa Creek, not far from the junction -of the Agua Fria, and near to the site of the old stone fort. Soon -after, he established a branch post on the Fresno, where the mining -prospects became most encouraging, as the high water subsided in that -stream. This branch station was placed in charge of a man by the name -of Greeley. - -At these establishments Savage soon built up a prosperous business. He -exchanged his goods at enormous profits for the gold obtained from his -Indian miners. The white miners and prospecting parties also submitted -to his demands rather than lose time by going to Mariposa village. The -value of his patrons’ time was thus made a source of revenue. As the -season advanced, this hardy pioneer of commerce rapidly increased his -wealth, but in the midst of renewed prosperity he learned that another -cloud was gathering over him. One of his five squaws assured him that -a combination was maturing among the mountain Indians, to kill or -drive all the white men from the country, and plunder them of their -property. To strengthen his influence over the principal tribes, Savage -had, according to the custom of many mountain men, taken wives from -among them, supposing his personal safety would be somewhat improved by -so doing. This is the old story of the prosperous Indian trader. Rumor -also came from his Indian miners, that the Yosemites threatened to come -down on him again for the purpose of plunder, and that they were urging -other tribes to join them. - -These reports he affected to disregard, but quietly cautioned the -miners to guard against marauders. - -He also sent word to the leading men in the settlements that -hostilities were threatened, and advised preparations against a -surprise. - -At his trading posts he treated the rumors with indifference, but -instructed the men in his employ to be continually on their guard in -his absence. Stating that he was going to “_the Bay_” for a stock of -goods, he started for San Francisco, taking with him two Indian wives, -and a chief of some note and influence who professed great friendship. - -This Indian, Jose Juarez, was in reality one of the leading spirits in -arousing hostilities against the whites. - -Notwithstanding Juarez appeared to show regard for Savage, the trader -had doubts of his sincerity, but, as he had no fears of personal -injury, he carefully kept his suspicions to himself. The real object -Savage had in making this trip was to place in a safe locality a large -amount of gold which he had on hand; and he took the chief to impress -him with the futility of any attempted outbreak by his people. He hoped -that a visit to Stockton and San Francisco, where Jose could see the -numbers and superiority of the whites, would so impress him that on his -return to the mountains his report would deter the Indians from their -proposed hostilities. - -The trip was made without any incidents of importance, but, to Savage’s -disappointment and regret, Jose developed an instinctive love for -whiskey, and having been liberally supplied with gold, he invested -heavily in that favorite Indian beverage, and was stupidly drunk nearly -all the time he was in the city. - -Becoming disgusted with Jose’s frequent intoxication, Savage expressed -in emphatic terms his disapprobation of such a course. Jose at once -became greatly excited, and forgetting his usual reserve, retorted in -abusive epithets, and disclosed his secret of the intended war against -the whites. - -Savage also lost his self-control, and with a blow felled the drunken -Indian to the ground. Jose arose apparently sober, and from that time -maintained a silent and dignified demeanor. After witnessing the -celebration of the admission of the State into the Union--which by -appointment occurred on October 29th, 1850, though the act of admission -passed Congress on the 9th of September of that year--and making -arrangements to have goods forwarded as he should order them, Savage -started back with his dusky retainers for Mariposa. On his arrival -at Quartzberg, he learned that the Kah-we-ah Indians were exacting -tribute from the immigrants passing through their territory, and soon -after his return a man by the name of Moore was killed not far from -his Mariposa Station. From the information here received, and reported -murders of emigrants, he scented danger to himself. Learning that the -Indians were too numerous at “Cassady’s Bar,” on the San-Joaquin, and -in the vicinity of his Fresno Station, he at once, with characteristic -promptness and courage, took his course direct to that post. He found, -on arriving there, that all was quiet, although some Indians were -about, as if for trading purposes. Among them were Pon-wat-chee and -Vow-ches-ter, two Indian chiefs known to be friendly. The trader had -taken two of his wives from their tribes. - -Savage greeted all with his customary salutation. Leaving his squaws to -confer with their friends and to provide for their own accommodations, -he quietly examined the memoranda of his agent, and the supply of goods -on hand. With an appearance of great indifference, he listened to the -business reports and gossip of Greeley, who informed him that Indians -from different tribes had come in but had brought but little gold. To -assure himself of the progress made by the Indians in forming a union -among themselves, he called those present around him in front of his -store, and passed the friendly pipe. After the usual silence and delay. -Savage said: “I know that all about me are my friends, and as a friend -to all, I wish to have a talk with you before I go back to my home on -the Mariposa, from which I have been a long distance away, but where I -could not stop until I had warned you. - -“I know that some of the Indians do not wish to be friends with the -white men, and that they are trying to unite the different tribes for -the purpose of a war. It is better for the Indians and white men to be -friends. If the Indians make war on the white men, every tribe will be -exterminated; not one will be left. I have just been where the white -men are more numerous than the wasps and ants; and if war is made and -the Americans are aroused to anger, every Indian engaged in the war -will be killed before the whites will be satisfied.” In a firm and -impressive manner Savage laid before them the damaging effects of a -war, and the advantages to all of a continued peaceful intercourse. His -knowledge of Indian language was sufficient to make his remarks clearly -understood, and they were apparently well received. - -Not supposing that Jose would attempt there to advocate any of his -schemes, the trader remarked, as he finished his speech: “A chief -who has returned with me from the place where the white men are so -numerous, can tell that what I have said is true--Jose Juarez--you all -know, and will believe him when he tells you the white men are more -powerful than the Indians.” - -The cunning chief with much dignity, deliberately stepped forward, -with more assurance than he had shown since the belligerent occurrence -at the bay, and spoke with more energy than Savage had anticipated. -He commenced by saying: “Our brother has told his Indian relatives -much that is truth; we have seen many people; the white men are very -numerous; but the white men we saw on our visit are of many tribes; -they are not like the tribe that dig gold in the mountains.” He then -gave an absurd description of what he had seen while below, and said: -“Those white tribes will not come to the mountains. They will not help -the gold diggers if the Indians make war against them. If the gold -diggers go to the white tribes in the big village they give their gold -for strong water and games; when they have no more gold the white -tribes drive the gold-diggers back to the mountains with clubs. They -strike them down (referring to the police), as your white relative -struck me while I was with him.” (His vindictive glance assured Savage -that the blow was not forgotten or forgiven.) “The white tribes will -not go to war with the Indians in the mountains. They cannot bring -their big ships and big guns to us; we have no cause to fear them. They -will not injure us.” - -To Savage’s extreme surprise, he then boldly advocated an immediate -war upon the whites, assuring his listeners that, as all the territory -belonged to the Indians, if the tribes would unite the whole tribe -of gold-diggers could be easily driven from their country; but, if -the gold-diggers should stay longer, their numbers will be too great -to make war upon, and the Indians would finally be destroyed. In -his speech Jose evinced a keenness of observation inconsistent with -his apparent drunken stupidity. Savage had thought this stupidity -sometimes assumed. He now felt assured that the chief had expected -thereby to learn his plans. To the writer there seems to be nothing -inconsistent with Indian craft, keenness of observation and love of -revenge in Jose’s conduct, though he was frequently drunk while at -“the bay.” While Jose was speaking other Indians had joined the circle -around him. Their expressions of approval indicated the effects of his -speech. During this time Savage had been seated on a log in front of -the store, a quiet listener. When Jose concluded, the trader arose, -and stepping forward, calmly addressed the relatives of his wives and -the Indians in whom he still felt confidence. The earnest and positive -speech of the cunning chief had greatly surprised him; he was somewhat -discouraged at the approval with which it had been received; but with -great self-possession, he replied, “I have listened very attentively to -what the chief, who went with me as my friend, has been saying to you. -I have heard all he has said. He has told you of many things that he -saw. He has told you some truth. He has told of many things which he -knows nothing about. He has told you of things he saw in his dreams, -while “strong water” made him sleep. The white men we saw there are -all of the same tribe as the gold-diggers here among the mountains. -He has told you he saw white men that were pale, and had tall hats on -their heads, with clothing different from the gold-diggers. This was -truth, but they are all brothers, all of one tribe. All can wear the -clothing of the gold-diggers; all can climb the mountains, and if war -is made on the gold-diggers, the white men will come and fight against -the Indians. Their numbers will be so great, that every tribe will be -destroyed that joins in a war against them.” - -Jose observing the effects of these statements, excitedly interrupted -Savage by entering the circle, exclaiming: “He is telling you words -that are not true. His tongue is forked and crooked. He is telling lies -to his Indian relatives. This trader is not a friend to the Indians. -He is not our brother. He will help the white gold-diggers to drive -the Indians from their country. We can now drive them from among us, -and if the other white tribes should come to their help, we will go to -the mountains; if they follow after us, they cannot find us; none of -them will come back; we will kill them with arrows and with rocks.” -While Jose was thus vociferously haranguing, other Indians came into -the grounds, and the crisis was approaching. As Jose Juarez ended his -speech, Jose Rey, another influential chief and prominent leader, -walked proudly into the now enlarged circle, followed by his suite of -treacherous Chow-chillas, among whom were Tom-Kit and Frederico. He -keenly glanced about him, and assuming a grandly tragic style, at once -commenced a speech by saying: “My people are now ready to begin a war -against the white gold-diggers. If all the tribes will be as one tribe, -and join with us, we will drive all the white men from our mountains. -If all the tribes will go together, the white men will run from us, and -leave their property behind them. The tribes who join in with my people -will be the first to secure the property of the gold-diggers.” - -The dignity and eloquent style of Jose Rey controlled the attention of -the Indians. This appeal to their cupidity interested them; a common -desire for plunder would be the strongest inducement to unite against -the whites. - -Savage was now fully aware that he had been defeated at this impromptu -council he had himself organized, and at once withdrew to prepare for -the hostilities he was sure would soon follow. As soon as the Indians -dispersed, he started with his squaws for home, and again gave the -settlers warning of what was threatened and would soon be attempted. - -These occurrences were narrated to me by Savage. The incidents of -the council at the Fresno Station were given during the familiar -conversations of our intimate acquaintanceship. The Indian speeches -here quoted are like all others of their kind, really but poor -imitations. The Indian is very figurative in his language. If a literal -translation were attempted his speeches would seem so disjointed and -inverted in their methods of expression, that their signification could -scarcely be understood; hence only the substance is here given. - -The reports from Savage were considered by the miners and settlers as -absurd. It was generally known that mountain men of Savage’s class -were inclined to adopt the vagaries and superstitions of the Indians -with whom they were associated; and therefore but little attention was -given to the trader’s warnings. It was believed that he had listened -to the blatant palaver of a few vagabond “Digger Indians,” and that -the threatened hostilities were only a quarrel between Savage and -his Indian miners, or with some of his Indian associates. Cassady, a -rival trader, especially scoffed at the idea of danger, and took no -precautions to guard himself or establishment. The settlers of Indian -Gulch and Quartzberg were, however, soon after startled by a report -brought by one of Savage’s men called “Long-haired Brown,” that the -traders’ store on the Fresno had been robbed, and all connected with -it killed except himself. Brown had been warned by an Indian he had -favored, known as Polonio-Arosa, but notwithstanding this aid, he had -to take the chances of a vigorous pursuit. - -Brown was a large man of great strength and activity, and as he said, -had dodged their arrows and distanced his pursuers in the race. Close -upon the heels of this report, came a rumor from the miners’ camp on -Mariposa creek, that Savage’s establishment at that place had also been -plundered and burned, and all connected with it killed. This report was -soon after corrected by the appearance of the trader at Quartzberg. -Savage was highly offended at the indifference with which his cautions -had been received at Mariposa, and by the county authorities, then -located at Agua-Fria. He stated that his wives had assured him that a -raid was about to be made on his establishment, and warned him of the -danger of a surprise. He had at once sought aid from personal friends -at Horse Shoe Bend--where he had once traded--to remove or protect -his property. While he was absent, Greeley, Stiffner and Kennedy had -been killed, his property plundered and burned, and his wives carried -off by their own people. These squaws had been importuned to leave -the trader, but had been faithful to his interests. The excitement of -these occurrences had not subsided before news came of the murder of -Cassady and four men near the San Joaquin. Another murderous assault -was soon after reported by an immigrant who arrived at Cassady’s -Bar, on the upper crossing of the San Joaquin. His shattered arm and -panting horse excited the sympathies of the settlers, and aroused the -whole community. The wounded man was provided for, and a party at once -started for the “Four Creeks,” where he had left his comrades fighting -the Indians. - -The arm of the wounded man was amputated by Dr. Lewis Leach, of St. -Louis, Mo., an immigrant who had but just come in over the same -route. The name of the wounded man was Frank W. Boden. He stated that -his party--four men, I believe, besides himself--had halted at the -“Four Creeks” to rest and graze their horses, and while there a band -of Indians (Ka-we-ahs) came down from their village and demanded -tribute for crossing their territory. Looking upon the demand as a new -form of Indian beggary, but little attention was paid to them. After -considerable bantering talk, some tobacco was given them, and they went -off grumbling and threatening. Boden said: “After the Indians left we -talked over the matter for a while; none regarded the demand of the -‘Indian tax-gatherers’ but as a trivial affair. I then mounted my horse -and rode off in the direction in which we had seen some antelopes as we -came on. I had not gone far before I heard firing in the direction of -our halting-place. - -“Riding back, I saw the house near which I had left my comrades was -surrounded by yelling demons. I was discovered by them at the same -instant, and some of them dashed toward me. Seeing no possibility of -joining my party, I turned and struck my horse with the spurs, but -before I could get beyond range of their arrows, I felt a benumbing -sensation in my arm, which dropped powerless. Seeing that my arm was -shattered or broken, I thought I would give them one shot at least -before I fell into their hands. Checking my horse with some difficulty, -I turned so as to rest my rifle across my broken arm, and took sight on -the nearest of my pursuers, who halted at the same time.” - -At this point in his story the hardy adventurer remarked with a twinkle -of satisfaction in his bright, keen eye: “I never took better aim in my -life. That Indian died suddenly. Another dash was made for me. My horse -did not now need the spurs, he seemed to be aware that we must leave -that locality as soon as possible, and speedily distanced them all. As -soon as the first excitement was over I suffered excruciating pain in -my arm. My rifle being useless to me, I broke it against a tree and -threw it away. I then took the bridle rein in my teeth and carried the -broken arm in my other hand.” - -The party that went out to the place of attack--Dr. Thomas Payn’s, now -Visalia, named for Nat. Vice, an acquaintance of the writer--found -there the mangled bodies of Boden’s four companions. One of these, it -was shown by unmistakable evidence, had been skinned by the merciless -fiends while yet alive. - -These men had doubtless made a stout resistance. Like brave men they -had fought for their lives, and caused, no doubt, a heavy loss to their -assailants. This, with their refusal to comply with the demand for -tribute, was the motive for such wolfish barbarity. - -It now became necessary that some prompt action should be taken -for general protection. Rumors of other depredations and murders -alarmed the inhabitants of Mariposa county. Authentic statements of -these events were at once forwarded to Governor John McDougall, by -the sheriff and other officials, and citizens, urging the immediate -adoption of some measures on the part of the State for the defense -of the people. Raids upon the miners’ camps and the “Ranch” of the -settlers had become so frequent that on its being rumored that the -Indians were concentrating for more extensive operations, a party, -without waiting for any official authority, collected and started -out to check the ravages of the marauders that were found gathering -among the foothills. With but limited supplies, and almost without -organization, this party made a rapid and toilsome march among the -densely wooded mountains in pursuit of the savages, who, upon report of -our movements, were now retreating. This party came up with the Indians -at a point high up on the Fresno. In the skirmish which followed a Lt. -Skeane was killed, William Little was seriously wounded and some others -slightly injured. - -This engagement, which occurred on January 11th, 1851, was not a very -satisfactory one to the whites. The necessity of a more efficient -organization was shown. The Indians had here taken all the advantages -of position and successfully repulsed the attack of the whites, who -withdrew, and allowed the former to continue their course. - -Some of the party returned to the settlements for supplies and -reinforcements, taking with them the wounded. - -Those who remained, reorganized, and leisurely followed the Indians to -near the North Fork of the San Joaquin river, where they had encamped -on a round rugged mountain covered with a dense undergrowth--oaks and -digger pine. Here, protected by the sheltering rocks and trees, they -defiantly taunted the whites with cowardice and their late defeat. They -boasted of their robberies and murders, and called upon Savage to come -out where he could be killed. In every possible manner they expressed -their contempt. Savage--who had joined the expedition--became very -much exasperated, and at first favored an immediate assault, but wiser -counsels prevailed, and by Captain Boling’s prudent advice, Savage kept -himself in reserve, knowing that he would be an especial mark, and as -Boling had said, his knowledge of the Indians and their territory could -not very well be dispensed with. This course did not please all, and, -as might have been expected, then and afterwards disparaging remarks -were made. - -The leaders in exciting hostilities against the whites were Jose Juarez -and Jose Rey. The bands collected on this mountain were under the -leadership of Jose Rey, who was also known by his English name of “King -Joseph.” The tribes represented were the Chow-chilla, Chook-chan-cie, -Noot-chu, Ho-nah-chee, Po-to-en-cie, Po-ho-no-chee, Kah-we-ah and -Yosemite. The number of fighting men or warriors was estimated at about -500, while that of the whites did not exceed 100. - -It was late in the day when the Indians were discovered. A general -council was held, and it was decided that no attack should be made -until their position could be studied, and the probable number to be -encountered, ascertained. Captain Kuy-ken-dall, Lieutenants Doss and -Chandler, and others, volunteered to make a reconnoissance before night -should interfere with their purpose. - -The scouting party was not noticed until on its return, when it was -followed back to camp by the Indians, where during nearly the whole -night their derisive shouts and menaces in broken Spanish and _native -American_, made incessant vigilance of the whole camp a necessity. -A council was again called to agree on the plan to be adopted. This -council of war was general; official position was disregarded except -to carry out the decisions of the party or command. The scouts had -discovered that this rendezvous was an old Indian village as well as -stronghold. - -The plan was that an attack should be undertaken at daylight, and -that an effort should be made to set fire to the village, preliminary -to the general assault. This plan was strongly advocated by the more -experienced ones who had seen service in Mexico and in Indian warfare. - -Kuy-ken-dall, Doss and Chandler, “as brave men as ever grew,” seemed to -vie with each other for the leadership, and at starting Kuy-ken-dall -seemed to be in command, but when the assault was made, Chandler’s -_elan_ carried him ahead of all, and he thus became the _leader_ indeed. - -But thirty-six men were detached for the preliminary service. -Everything being arranged the attacking party started before daylight. -The Indians had but a little while before ceased their annoyances -around the camp. The reserve under Savage and Boling were to follow -more leisurely. Kuy-ken-dall’s command reached the Indian camp -without being discovered. Without the least delay the men dashed in -and with brands from the camp fires, set the wigwams burning, and -at the same time madly attacked the now alarmed camp. The light -combustible materials of which the wigwams were composed were soon in -a bright blaze. So rapid and so sudden were the charges made, that the -panic-stricken warriors at once fled from their stronghold. Jose Rey -was among the first shot down. The Indians made a rally to recover -their leader; Chandler observing them, shouted “Charge, boys! Charge!!” -Discharging another volley, the men rushed forward. - -The savages turned and fled down the mountain, answering back the -shout of Chandler to charge by replying, “Chargee!” “Chargee!” as they -disappeared. - -The whole camp was routed, and sought safety among the rocks and brush, -and by flight. - -This was an unexpected result. The whole transaction had been so -quickly and recklessly done that the reserve under Boling and Savage -had no opportunity to participate in the assault, and but imperfectly -witnessed the scattering of the terrified warriors. Kuy-ken-dall, -especially, displayed a coolness and valor entitling him to command, -though outrun by Chandler in the assault. The fire from the burning -village spread so rapidly down the mountain side toward our camp as to -endanger its safety. While the whites were saving their camp supplies, -the Indians under cover of the smoke escaped. No prisoners were taken; -twenty-three were killed; the number wounded was never known. Of the -settlers, but one was really wounded, though several were scorched -and bruised in the fight. None were killed. The scattering flight of -the Indians made a further pursuit uncertain. The supplies were too -limited for an extended chase; and as none had reached the little army -from those who had returned, and time would be lost in waiting, it was -decided to return to the settlements before taking any other active -measures. The return was accomplished without interruption. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - The Governor of California issues a Proclamation--Formation of - the Mariposa Battalion--The Origin and Cause of the War--New - Material Public Documents--A Discussion--Capt. Walker--The Peace - Commissioners’ Parley and the Indians’ Pow-wow--The Mysterious Deep - Valley--Forward, March! - - -The State authorities had in the meantime become aroused. The reports -of Indian depredations multiplied, and a general uprising was for a -time threatened. - -Proclamations were therefore issued by Gov. McDougall, calling for -volunteers, to prevent further outrages and to punish the marauders. -Our impromptu organization formed the nucleus of the volunteer force -in Mariposa county, as a large majority of the men at once enlisted. -Another battalion was organized for the region of Los Angelos. Our new -organization, when full, numbered two hundred mounted men. This was -accomplished in time, by Major Savage riding over to the San Joaquin, -and bringing back men from Cassady’s Bar. - -The date from which we were regularly mustered into the service was -January 24th, 1851. The volunteers provided their own horses and -equipments. The camp supplies and baggage trains were furnished by -the State. This military force was called into existence by the State -authorities, but by act of Congress its maintenance was at the expense -of the general government, under direction of Indian commissioners. -Major Ben McCullough was offered the command of this battalion, but -he declined it. This position was urged upon him with the supposition -that if he accepted it the men who had once served under him would be -induced to enlist--many of the “Texan Rangers” being residents of -Mariposa county. - -Major McCullough was at that time employed as Collector of “Foreign -Miners’ Tax,” a very lucrative office. As a personal acquaintance, -he stated to me that the position was not one that would bring him -honor or pecuniary advantages. That he had no desire to leave a good -position, except for one more profitable. - -The officers, chosen by the men, recommended to and commissioned -by Governor McDougall, were James D. Savage, as Major; John J. -Kuy-ken-dall, John Boling, and William Dill, as Captains; M. B. Lewis, -as Adjutant; John I. Scott, Reuben T. Chandler, and Hugh W. Farrell, -as First Lieutenants; Robert E. Russell, as Sergeant Major; Dr. A. -Bronson, as Surgeon, and Drs. Pfifer and Black as Assistant Surgeons. A -few changes of Lieutenants and subordinate officers were afterward made. - -Upon the resignation of Surgeon Bronson, Dr. Lewis Leach, was appointed -to fill the vacancy. - -While writing up these recollections, in order to verify my dates, -which I knew were not always chronologically exact, I addressed letters -to the State departments of California making inquiries relative to -the “Mariposa Battalion,” organized in 1851. In answer to my inquiry -concerning these known facts, the following was received from Adj. -General L. H. Foot. He says: “The records of this office, both written -and printed, are so incomplete, that I am not aware from consulting -them that the organization to which you allude had existence.” It is a -matter of regret that the history of the early settlement of California -is, to so great an extent, traditionary, without public records of many -important events. It is not deemed just that the faithful services of -the “Mariposa Battalion,” should be forgotten with the fading memory -of the pioneers of that period. There is in the State, an almost -entire absence of any public record of the “Indian war,” of which the -discovery of the Yosemite valley was an important episode. - -Until the publication of Mr. J. M. Hutching’s book, “In The Heart of -The Sierras, Yo Semite, Big Trees, etc.,” which contains valuable -public documents, the author of “Discovery of The Yosemite” was, as -stated on page 30, unable to obtain any official records concerning the -operations of the Mariposa battalion, or of the events which preceded -and caused the Indian War of 1851. Now that Mr. Hutching’s persistent -industry has brought light from darkness, I interrupt my narrative to -make clear the origin of the war, and to justify the early Pioneers -engaged in it. As a sample, also, of many obstructions encountered, I -insert a few extracts from letters relating to the “Date of Discovery,” -furnished the _Century_ Magazine. - -The attack made upon Savage on the Merced river in 1850, had for its -object plunder and intimidation, and as an invasion of Ten-ie-ya’s -territory was no longer threatened after the removal of Mr. Savage to -the Mariposa, the Yo Semities contented themselves with the theft of -horses and clothing, but a general war was still impending, as may be -seen by reference to page 31 of “In The Heart of The Sierras,” where -appears: Report of Col. Adam Johnston, a special agent, to Gov. Peter -H. Burnett, upon his return from Mariposa county to San Jose, then the -Capital of California, and which I here present: San Jose, January 2, -1851. Sir: I have the honor to submit to you, as the executive of the -State of California, some facts connected with the recent depredations -committed by the Indians, within the bounds of the State, upon the -persons and property of her citizens. The immediate scene of their -hostile movements are at and in the vicinity of the Mariposa and -Fresno. The Indians in that portion of your State have, for some time -past, exhibited disaffection and a restless feeling toward the whites. -Thefts were continually being perpetrated by them, but no act of -hostility had been committed by them on the person of any individual, -which indicated general enmity on the part of the Indians, until -the night of the 17th December last. I was then at the camp of Mr. -James D. Savage, on the Mariposa, where I had gone for the purpose of -reconciling any difficulty that might exist between the Indians and the -whites in that vicinity. From various conversations which I had held -with different chiefs, I concluded there was no immediate danger to be -apprehended. On the evening of the 17th of December, we were, however, -surprised by the sudden disappearance of the Indians. They left in a -body, but no one knew why, or where they had gone. From the fact that -Mr. Savage’s domestic Indians had forsaken him and gone with those of -the rancheria, or village, he immediately suspected that something of a -serious nature was in contemplation, or had already been committed by -them. - -The manner of their leaving, in the night, and by stealth, induced Mr. -Savage to believe that whatever act they had committed or intended -to commit, might be connected with himself. Believing that he could -overhaul his Indians before others could join them, and defeat any -contemplated depredations on their part, he, with sixteen men, started -in pursuit. He continued upon their traces for about thirty miles, when -he came upon their encampment. The Indians had discovered his approach, -and fled to an adjacent mountain, leaving behind them two small boys -asleep, and the remains of an aged female, who had died, no doubt -from fatigue. Near to the encampment Mr. Savage ascended a mountain -in pursuit of the Indians, from which he discovered them upon another -mountain at a distance. From these two mountain tops, conversation was -commenced and kept up for some time between Mr. Savage and the chief, -who told him that they had murdered the men on the Fresno, and robbed -the camp. The chief had formerly been on the most friendly terms with -Savage, but would not now permit him to approach him. Savage said to -them it would be better for them to return to their village--that with -very little labor daily, they could procure sufficient gold to purchase -them clothing and food. To this the chief replied it was a hard way to -get a living, and that they could more easily supply their wants by -stealing from the whites. He also said to Savage he must not deceive -the whites by telling them lies, he must not tell them that the Indians -were friendly; they were not, but on the contrary were their deadly -enemies, and that they intended killing and plundering them so long as -a white face was seen in the country. Finding all efforts to induce -them to return, or to otherwise reach them, had failed, Mr. Savage and -his company concluded to return. When about leaving, they discovered a -body of Indians, numbering about two hundred, on a distant mountain, -who seemed to be approaching those with whom he had been talking. - -Mr. Savage and company arrived at his camp in the night of Thursday in -safety. In the mean time, as news had reached us of murders committed -on the Fresno, we had determined to proceed to the Fresno, where the -men had been murdered. Accordingly on the day following, Friday, the -20th, I left the Mariposa camp with thirty-five men, for the camp on -the Fresno, to see the situation of things there, and to bury the dead. -I also dispatched couriers to Agua Fria, Mariposa, and several other -mining sections, hoping to concentrate a sufficient force on the Fresno -to pursue the Indians into the mountains. Several small companies of -men left their respective places of residence to join us, but being -unacquainted with the country they were unable to meet us. We reached -the camp on the Fresno a short time after daylight. It presented a -horrid scene of savage cruelty. The Indians had destroyed everything -they could not use or carry with them. The store was stripped of -blankets, clothing, flour, and everything of value; the safe was -broken open and rifled of its contents; the cattle, horses and mules -had been run into the mountains; the murdered men had been stripped of -their clothing, and lay before us filled with arrows; one of them had -yet twenty perfect arrows sticking in him. A grave was prepared, and -the unfortunate persons interred. Our force being small, we thought -it not prudent to pursue the Indians farther into the mountains, and -determined to return. The Indians in that part of the country are quite -numerous, and have been uniting other tribes with them for some time. -On reaching our camp on the Mariposa, we learned that most of the -Indians in the valley had left their villages and taken their women -and children to the mountains. This is generally looked upon as a sure -indication of their hostile intentions. It is feared that many of the -miners in the more remote regions have already been cut off, and Agua -Fria and Mariposa are hourly threatened. - -Under this state of things, I come here at the earnest solicitations of -the people of that region, to ask such aid from the state government as -will enable them to protect their persons and property. I submit these -facts for your consideration, and have the honor to remain, - - Yours very respectfully, - ADAM JOHNSTON. - -To his excellency Peter H. Burnett. - -The report of Col. Johnston to Gov. Burnett had the desired result, -for immediately after inauguration, his successor, Gov. McDougal, -on January 13, 1851, issued a proclamation calling for one hundred -volunteers, and this number by a subsequent order dated January 24th, -1851, after receipt of Sheriff James Burney’s report, bearing the same -date of the governor’s first call for one hundred men, was increased to -“two hundred able bodied men, under officers of their own selection.” - -To insure a prompt suppression of hostilities, or a vigorous -prosecution of the war, on January 25th, 1851, Gov. McDougal appointed -Col. J. Neely Johnson of his staff a special envoy to visit Mariposa -county, and in an emergency, to call out additional forces if required, -and do whatever seemed best for the interests and safety of the people -endangered. - -Col. Adam Johnston, before leaving for San Jose, had, as he reported, -“dispatched couriers to Agua Fria, Mariposa, and several other mining -sections, hoping to concentrate a sufficient force on the Fresno to -pursue the Indians into the mountains. Several small companies of -men left their respective places of residence to join us, but being -unacquainted with the country they were unable to meet us.” - -The same apparent difficulties beset Sheriff Burney, as he was able to -collect but seventy-four men, but want of knowledge of the country was -not the sole cause of delay. The Indians of the mountains at that time -having been accustomed to the occupation for many years of despoiling -the Californians, were the most expert bare back riders and horse -thieves in the world, and when many of us who had horses and mules -herding in the valley ranches of the foot-hills and Merced bottoms, -sent for them to carry us into the distant mountains of the Fresno, -where we had heard the Indians were concentrating, our messengers in -many instances found the animals stolen or stampeded, and hence the -delay in most instances, though some of the mining population who had -arrived in California by water, never seemed able to guide themselves -without a compass, and would get lost if they left a beaten trail. As -for myself, I could scarcely become lost, except in a heavy fog or snow -storm, and upon two occasions in the mountains was compelled to leave -my comrades, who were utterly and wilfully lost, but who, finding me -the most persistent, finally called to me and followed out to well -known land marks. - -It will appear by the letter of Major Burney that “The different squads -from the various places rendezvoused not far from this place (Agua -Fria), on Monday, 6th, and numbered but seventy-four men.” I was at -Shirlock’s Creek on the night before, Jan. 5th, 1851, and had promised -to join the Major in the morning; but when the morning came, my animals -were gone, stolen by Indians from my Mexican herdman. - -Mr. C. H. Spencer had sent his servant “Jimmy,” to Snelling’s ranche, -on the Merced River, for his animals, and after a delay of perhaps two -or three days, they were brought up for use. Mr. Spencer kindly loaned -me a mule for temporary use, but upon his having his saddle mule stolen -a few nights after, I gave back his mule and bought a fine one of Thos. -J. Whitlock, for whom Whitlock’s Creek was named. I had previously been -able to start with a small squad on the trail of Major Burney and his -brave men, but met some of them returning after the fight, among whom -I remember, were Wm. Little, shot through the lungs, but who finally -recovered, a Mr. Smith, known as “Yankee Smith,” sick, as he said, -“from a bare-footed fool exposure in the snow,” and Dr. Pfifer, who had -been given the care of the wounded and sick men. There were several -others unknown to me, or whose names I have now forgotten. - -The different accounts I received from the men engaged in the fight, -were so conflicting, that in referring to it in previous editions, on -page 25, I could only say that it “was not a very satisfactory one to -the whites.” I could only state the general impression received from -Mr. Little’s account, which was that the men had been unnecessarily -exposed to cold and danger, and that only by the dash and bravery of -the officers and men engaged in the affair were they able to withdraw -into a place of temporary safety, until joined by re-inforcements. - -Indian fighting was new to most of the men engaged, and, like the -soldiers on both sides at the outbreak of the Rebellion, they had been -led to expect a too easy victory. - -But we have now the report of Major Burney to Gov. McDougal, and also -a letter from Mr. Theodore G. Palmer, of Newark, New Jersey, to his -father, written five days after the battle, and which has been kindly -placed at my disposal. Military men will readily perceive and enjoy the -entire artlessness and intended truthfulness of Mr. Palmer’s letter, -as well as his modest bravery. The two letters read in connection -with that of Col. Adam Johnston, are most valuable in fixing dates -and locations for any one with a knowledge of the topography of the -country, and of the events they narrate. They set at rest forever the -absurd claim that the first battle of the Indian War of 1851 was fought -in the Yosemite valley, for the battle was fought on a mountain. Mr. -Hutchings, to whose industry so much is due, has strangely overlooked -the fact, that the reference to “Monday 6th,” in Major Burney’s letter, -could only have reference to Monday, January 6th, 1851, the month in -which the letter was written, and not to December, 1850, as given by -Mr. Hutchings, in brackets. The 6th of December, 1850, occurred on -a Friday; on Tuesday, December 17, 1850, the three men were killed -on the Fresno river station of James D. Savage; on Friday, December -20th, 1850, they were buried; on Monday, January 6th, 1851, Major -Burney, sheriff of Mariposa County, assembled a strong _posse_ to -go in pursuit of the Indian murderers, and coming up with them on a -mountain stronghold on Jan. 11th, 1851, destroyed their villages, and -then retreated _down_ the mountain some four miles to _a plain_ in -the Fresno valley, where he erected a log breastwork for temporary -defense. Nothing but the most vivid imagination, coupled with an entire -ignorance of the region of the Yosemite, could liken the two localities -to each other. The Hetch Hetchy valley of the Tuolumne river and some -of the cliffs of the Tuolumne and of the King’s river, bear a general -resemblance to some of the scenery of the Yosemite, but when the -Yosemite valley itself has been seen, it will never be forgotten by the -visitor. - - -MAJOR BURNEY’S LETTER TO GOV. MCDOUGAL. - - AGUA FRIA, January 13, 1851. - -SIR: Your Excellency has doubtlessly been informed by Mr. Johnston and -others, of repeated and aggravated depredations of the Indians in this -part of the State. Their more recent outrages you are probably not -aware of. Since the departure of Mr. Johnston, the Indian agent, they -have killed a portion of the citizens on the head of the San Joaquin -river, driven the balance off, taken away all movable property, and -destroyed all they could not take away. They have invariably murdered -and robbed all the small parties they fell in with between here and -the San Joaquin. News came here last night that seventy-two men were -killed on Rattlesnake Creek; several men have been killed in Bear -Valley. The Fine Gold Gulch has been deserted, and the men came in here -yesterday. Nearly all the mules and horses in this part of the State -have been stolen, both from the mines and the ranches. And I now, in -the name of the people of this part of the State, and for the good of -our country, appeal to your Excellency for assistance. - -In order to show your Excellency that the people have done all that -they can do to suppress these things, to secure quiet and safety in the -possession of our property and lives, I will make a brief statement of -what has been done here. - -After the massacres on the Fresno, San Joaquin, etc., we endeavored -to raise a volunteer company to drive the Indians back, if not to -take them or force them into measures. The different squads from the -various places rendezvoused not far from this place on Monday, 6th, and -numbered but seventy-four men. A company was formed, and I was elected -captain; J. W. Riley, first lieutenant; E. Skeane, second lieutenant. -We had but eight day’s provisions, and not enough animals to pack our -provisions and blankets, as it should have been done. We, however, -marched, and on the following day struck a large trail of horses that -had been stolen by the Indians. I sent forward James D. Savage with -a small spy force, and I followed the trail with my company. About -two o’clock in the morning, Savage came in and reported the village -near, as he had heard the Indians singing. Here I halted, left a -small guard with my animals, and went forward with the balance of my -men. We reached the village just before day, and at dawn, but before -there was light enough to see how to fire our rifles with accuracy, we -were discovered by their sentinel. When I saw that he had seen us, I -ordered a charge on the village (this had been reconnoitered by Savage -and myself). The Indian sentinel and my company got to the village -at the same time, he yelling to give the alarm. I ordered them to -surrender, some of them ran off, some seemed disposed to surrender, but -others fired on us; we fired and charged into the village. Their ground -had been selected on account of the advantages it possessed in their -mode of warfare. They numbered about four hundred, and fought us three -hours and a half. - -We killed from forty to fifty, but cannot exactly tell how many, as -they took off all they could get to. Twenty-six were killed in and -around the village, and a number of others in the chaparrel. We burned -the village and provisions, and took four horses. Our loss was six -wounded, two mortally; one of the latter was Lieutenant Skeane, the -other a Mr. Little, whose bravery and conduct through the battle cannot -be spoken of too highly. We made litters, on which we conveyed our -wounded, and had to march four miles down the mountain, to a suitable -place to camp, the Indians firing at us all the way, from peaks on -either side, but so far off as to do little damage. My men had been -marching or fighting from the morning of the day before, without sleep, -and with but little to eat. On the plain, at the foot of the mountain, -we made a rude, but substantial fortification; and at a late hour those -who were not on guard, were permitted to sleep. Our sentinels were (as -I anticipated they would be) firing at the Indians occasionally all -night, but I had ordered them not to come in until they were driven in. - -I left my wounded men there, with enough of my company to defend the -little fort, and returned to this place for provisions and recruits. -I send them to-day re-inforcements and provisions, and in two days -more I march by another route, with another re-inforcement, and intend -to attack another village before going to the fort. The Indians are -watching the movements at the fort, and I can come up in the rear of -them unsuspectedly, and we can keep them back until I can hear from -Your Excellency. - -If Your Excellency thinks proper to authorize me or any other person to -keep this company together, we can force them into measures in a short -time. But if not authorized and commissioned to do so, and furnished -with some arms and provisions, or the means to buy them, and pay for -the services of the men, my company must be disbanded, as they are not -able to lose so much time without any compensation. - - Very respectfully, your obedient servant, - JAMES BURNEY. - -In a subsequent letter of Major Burney, addressed to Hon. W. J. Howard, -occurs the following passage: - -“The first night out you came into my camp and reported that the -Indians had stolen all your horses and mules--a very large number; that -you had followed their trail into the hill country, but, deeming it -imprudent to go there alone, had turned northward, hoping to strike my -trail, having heard that I had gone out after Indians. I immediately, -at sunset, sent ten men (yourself among the number) under Lieutenant -Skeane--who was killed in the fight next day--to look out for the -trail, and report, which was very promptly carried out.” - -Page 35, “In Heart of S. and Legislative Journal” for 1851, page 600. - -It is only required of me to say here that re-inforced by such leaders -of men as Kuykendall, Boling, Chandler and Doss, there was no delay, -and the campaign was completed at “Battle Mountain,” a water shed of -the San Joaquin. - -I now introduce a letter of great value, to me, as it fixes the date -of the first battle, and disproves assertions made in the _Century_ -Magazine: - - - HART’S RANCH, CALIFORNIA, JANUARY 16th, 1851. - -MY DEAR FATHER: When I wrote my last letter to you I had fully -determined to take a Ranch near Pacheco’s Pass, as I informed you, but -before three days had passed the report of Jim Kennedy’s murder on the -Fresno was confirmed, and I started for the mountains in pursuit of -the Indians who were committing depredations all through the country -and had sworn to kill every white man in it. Four hundred men had -promised to go, but at the appointed time only seventy-seven made their -appearance. With these we started under the command of Major Burney, -Sheriff of Mariposa County, guided by Mr. Jas. D. Savage, who is -without doubt the best man in the world for hunting them out. - -From his long acquaintance with the Indians, Mr. Savage has learned -their ways so thoroughly that they cannot deceive him. He has been one -of their greatest chiefs, and speaks their language as well as they can -themselves. No dog can follow a trail like he can. No horse endure half -so much. He sleeps but little, can go days without food, and can run a -hundred miles in a day and night over the mountains and then sit and -laugh for hours over a camp-fire as fresh and lively as if he had just -been taking a little walk for exercise. - -With him for a guide we felt little fear of not being able to find them. - -On Friday morning about ten o’clock, our camp again moved forward -and kept traveling until one that night, when “halt! we are on the -Indians,” passed in a whisper down the line. Every heart beat quicker -as we silently unsaddled our animals and tied them to the bushes around -us. Commands were given in whispers and we were formed in a line. Sixty -were chosen for the expedition, the balance remaining behind in charge -of camp. - -Savage said the Indians were about six miles off; that they were -engaged in a feast. He pointed out their fires, could hear them sing -and could smell them, but his eyes were the only ones that could see; -his ears alone could hear, and his nose smell anything unusual. Still, -there was such confidence placed in him that not one doubted for an -instant that everything was as he said. - -About two o’clock we started in Indian file, as still as it was -possible for sixty men to move in the dark, for the moon had set. For -three long hours did we walk slowly and cautiously over the rocks and -bushes, through the deepest ravines and up steep and ragged mountain, -until within a half mile of the enemy. - -Here every one took off his boots, when we again pushed forward to -about two hundred yards from the camp. Another halt was called to wait -for daylight, while Savage went forward to reconnoitre. He succeeded -in getting within ten paces of the Rancharia, and listened to a -conversation among them in which his name was frequently mentioned. -He found that it was a town of the Kee-chees, but that there were -about one hundred and fifty of the Chow-chil-la warriors with them and -several of the Chu-chan-ces. Had he found only the Kee-chees as he -expected, we were to surround the Rancharia and take all prisoners, -but the presence of so many Chow-chil-las, the most warlike tribe in -California, made a change of plan necessary. - -Daylight by this time began to appear. We had been lying in our -stocking-feet on the ground on the top of a mountain within a few paces -of the snow for more than an hour, almost frozen by the intense cold, -not daring to move or speak a word. - -It was not yet light enough to see the sight of our rifles, when an -Indian’s head was seen rising on the hill before us. For a moment his -eyes wandered, then rested on us, and with a yell like a Coyote he -turned for the Rancharia. Never did I hear before such an infernal -howling, whooping and yelling, as saluted us then from the throats -of about six hundred savages, as they rushed down the hill into the -gim-o-sell bushes below. - -Our huzzahs could, however, hardly have sounded more pleasant to them, -as when finding we were discovered, we charged on their town. Fifty -rifles cracked almost instantaneously; a dozen Indians lay groaning -before their huts, and many supposed we had undisturbed possession. -Our firing had ceased and we were looking around for plunder, when -a rifle fired from the bushes below, struck a young Texan, Charley -Huston, standing by my side. He fell with a single groan, and we all -supposed him dead. My first impression was that I was shot, for I -plainly heard the ball strike and almost felt it. This was a surprise -that almost whipped us, for not knowing that the Indians had fire-arms, -we were only expecting arrows. Before that shot was fired, I had always -entertained the idea that I could run about as fast as common men (and -I was one of the first in the charge), but by the time I had collected -my wandering senses, I was nearly alone; the majority of the party some -thirty paces ahead, and running as if they never intended to stop. - -Captain Burney and Mr. Savage were on top of the hill using every -exertion to make the company halt and form. He had partly succeeded, -when a pistol ball struck a man in the face, he fell, but raising -himself up said, “if we stay here we will be all shot” and a break was -made for the trees. - -Still some few remained in rank and others slowly answered to the -orders to form, when our Second Lieutenant fell mortally wounded. He -was carried off, and every man took his tree. - -The Indians had again possession of their Rancharia, and of a slight -eminence to the left, and were sending showers of bullets and arrows -upon us from three sides. These two points had to be gained even if it -cost half our men. Leaving then, enough to guard our present position, -the rest of us charged on the hill, took it, stormed the Rancharia, -took and burnt it, and returned to our former position with only one -man wounded, Wm. Little, shot through the lungs. - -The close fighting was now over, for we could not give chase and were -forced to lie behind trees and rocks and pick out such as exposed -themselves. It was about half past ten when, finding it useless to -remain longer, litters were made for the wounded and we started for -camp. Then again we had warm work, for all down the pass, the Indians -had stationed themselves to fire on us, forcing us to charge on them -several times, for while we were in plain sight, they were completely -hid behind the gim-o-sell brush. - -In our march back, the rear guard was kept at work about as hard as at -any time during the morning, but not a single man was hurt, and only -one mule was killed. - -We moved our camp that night, six miles lower down, where we laid the -foundations of a fort and left thirty men to guard it and take care of -the wounded. - -The rest of us started below the next morning, after burying Lieutenant -Skeane, who died in the night. - -The Indians acknowledged to eleven men killed, though fifty killed -and wounded would be a moderate estimate. Our loss was seven -wounded--two mortally (as we then supposed, but Mr. Little finally -recovered.--AUTHOR.) - -The force of the Savages consisted of, as near as could be ascertained, -four hundred warriors. We burned a hundred wigwams, several tons of -dried horse and mule meat, a great number of bows and arrows, and took -six mules. - -Several amusing incidents occurred during the fight and others of the -most heroic bravery on the part of the Indians. One old squaw was -wounded accidentally at the first charge, and was unable to get off. -One of our men was going to finish her with his knife, but seeing it -was a woman he left her. No sooner had he gone than she picked up a bow -and lodged three arrows in another man. I believe she was not touched -after that. - -The whole body of Indians seemed bent on killing Mr. Savage, partly -because he would not be their chief and lead them against the whites, -and partly because he was, they knew, our greatest dependence as guide, -and their particular dread. To kill him, many of them sacrificed their -own lives. They would come one at a time and, standing in open ground, -send arrows at him until shot down; and one old chief who used to cook -for Savage, would ask him after every shot where he had hit him. They -would talk to him to find out where he was, and as soon as he would -answer, the balls and arrows would fly thick around his head: but he -escaped unhurt; but as he said, worse frightened than he ever was -before. He did not fancy such partiality. - -A large party has started on a second expedition, but I believe I am -perfectly satisfied with Indian fighting. - - T. G. PALMER. - - NOTE.--It will have been observed that especial reference has twice - been made to Gim-o-sell brush, a shrub that grows only on warm slatey - soil, on Southern exposures, sought by Indians for winter quarters, - and not on the granite cliffs and mountains of the Yosemite. I had - not thought it necessary to draw upon nature for testimony, but a new - generation has sprung into existence, and the eternal hills may speak - to them. - -The mining camp or village of Agua Fria, at the date of the -organization of the battalion, was the county seat of Mariposa County, -and the residence of the Sheriff, Major James Burney. Whittier’s -Hotel was the head-quarters for enlistment. Finding the number called -for incomplete, while yet in daily expectation of the arrival of the -mustering officer, James D. Savage made a rapid ride to the San Joaquin -diggings, and returned with men enough to complete the organization. - -We were formally reported for duty, and went into camp about two miles -below Agua Fria, on about the 10th of Feb., 1851, but when mustered -in, the rolls were dated to include service from Jan. 24th, 1851, the -date of the last order of enlistment. An informal ballot was taken to -show the preference of the men for officers to command us, Major Burney -having previously declined, and when that had been demonstrated, other -aspirants were withdrawn by their friends, a formal ballot was taken -and a regular organization of three companies completed. The Governor -was duly notified of our proceedings, and in a few days the commissions -were received by our respective officers. - -After a few days in camp on Agua Fria Creek, we moved down to a camp in -the foot hills, known afterwards as Lewis Ranch, where we had abundant -grass and good water, and there was established our head-quarters, -while waiting for Col. J. Neely Johnson and the U. S. Indian -Commission, as stated in this chapter. - -After instructions were given us by Col. Johnson, and the Commission -had exhausted its eloquence upon the “Children of the Great Father at -Washington,” and had started for the Fresno, we were allowed to go in -pursuit of some very sly marauders who had stolen into our camp in the -night, loosened and run off some of our animals, and taken some others -herded in the foot hills, but no extended operations were allowed, as -Major Savage ordered us to be in readiness for a campaign against the -Yosemities, when the first big storm should come, that would prevent -their escape across the Sierra Nevada. After a few days’ delay the -storm did come with continued violence, as recorded. - -In view of the facts and dates here given how absurd the statement -that we did not go to the Yosemite “until about the 5th or 6th of May, -1851.” Our idleness in camp from Feb. 10th and the patient indulgence -of the Commissioners, while waiting for the results of our first -operations, surpass belief. - -And now I reluctantly notice an error of statement by Mr. Julius N. -Pratt in the _Century_ Magazine for December, 1890. - -Had the usual courtesy been extended of allowing me to see and answer -Mr. Pratt’s erroneous impressions in the same number, I am convinced -that he would have kindly withdrawn his article. I am led to this -belief, not alone from letters received, but from the _internal -evidence_ of an upright character conveyed by Mr. Pratt’s graphic -account of “A Trip to California by way of Panama in 1849,” in the -_Century_ for April 1891. - -The _Century_ Magazine is a most powerful disseminator of truth, or -error, and though I cannot hope for a complete vindication through this -volume, its readers shall have the facts of “The Date of Discovery” -set before them, “for a truthful regard for history” and my own -self-respect require it. - -In the _Century_ Magazine for September, 1890, page 795, is an article -from my pen which gives the date of discovery of the Yosemite as -March, 1851. Mr. Pratt, in the December number following, assumes, -with “a truthful regard for history,” that I was in error, and gives -about “January 10th, 1851, as the approximate, if not exact date of -discovery.” Many of the men whom Mr. Pratt supposed to have been the -discoverers, were, or became, my own comrades. When Mr. Pratt’s article -appeared, I at once sent a reply, but it received no recognition. - -Knowing that Mr. Theodore G. Palmer, of Newark, New Jersey, was in -the only engagement occurring with Indians in Mariposa county at the -time given by Mr. Pratt as the date of his supposed discovery of the -Yosemite, I wrote, requesting Mr. Palmer to call on the editor of the -_Century_ in my behalf. - -In a letter of January 9th, 1891, Mr. Palmer wrote: “It is the -unexpected which always happens, and your communication to the -_Century_ in response to Pratt’s ‘California,’ was never received. Mr. -Johnson, the associate editor, received me very pleasantly. He assured -me that although he sent you an advance copy of Pratt’s article, -nothing had been received in the office from you since in reply, and he -presumed you had given up the case in default. - -“I so completely satisfied him that Mr. Pratt is in error, that he -requested me to express my reasons in the _Century_, and to assure you -that any communication from you will always have respectful attention.” - -On January 24th, 1891, Mr. R. W. Johnson, associate editor, wrote -me, saying: “Since telling your friend, Mr. Palmer, that we had not -received an article from you in reply to Mr. Pratt, we have discovered -the manuscript. We have in type a short note from Mr. Palmer which will -be acceptable to you.” - -A few days after Mr. Johnson kindly sent me the proof. On March 12th, -1891, Mr. Johnson wrote me: “Mr. Pratt, after examination of the -subject, has written us a short letter, withdrawing his contention of -your claim to the discovery of the Yosemite, the publication of which -we trust will be satisfactory to you and also to Mr. Palmer. Will you -now tell us whether there is anything in this new claim that Walker was -the discoverer of the Valley?” - -I at once saw that if Mr. Pratt’s retraction was published there would -be no need of the publication of Mr. Palmer’s communication. About this -time a letter of earlier date, January 28, 1891, was sent me by Mr. -Palmer, received from Mr. Pratt, in which the latter gentleman says: -“I enclose a letter which seems to prove that the party about which I -wrote to the _Century_ was not your party. One went to the North fork, -the other (yours) to the South.” That statement left no base whatever -for Mr. Pratt’s imaginary “fight at the Yosemite, and thus of the -discovery,” for the North Fork affair was not a battle at all, but “a -scare” on a fork which enters the Merced river thirty-five miles below -the Yosemite, and as for the battle fought on the 11th of January, -1851, by Major Burney’s company, in which Mr. Palmer was engaged, it -was not fought on the South fork or in any valley, but upon a high -mountain of the Fresno river. - -Mr. Palmer now felt that his note to _The Century_ was too long -delayed, and wrote asking for its withdrawal or its publication. Mr. R. -U. Johnson replied: “_The Century_ is made up two months in advance,” -but that he intended inserting it in the April number, &c. Mr. Palmer -added in his letter to me, “I think he will.” - -The matter had now become not only interesting, but amusing to me; -for very soon Mr. Palmer wrote, “whether my answer to Pratt will be -published or not, is doubtful. I infer (from a letter) that Pratt will -not rest quiescent under my contradiction.” Again Mr. Palmer wrote, -enclosing copy of letter to Mr. Johnson of March 14th, 1891, answering -Mr. Johnson’s Statement, “that Mr. Pratt, while being convinced of his -injustice to Dr. Bunnell and being ready himself to withdraw his former -statement, takes issue with you as to the identity of the two parties,” -and then Mr. Johnson asks, “would it not be just as well and more -effective if we were simply to print from Mr. Pratt that he is ‘pleased -to withdraw all contention of the claim made by Dr. Bunnell that he was -the original discoverer?’” Let me here say, in passing, that I never -made such a claim. - -Mr. Palmer very properly objects to becoming the “scapegoat” for me or -any one else, and replying to Mr. Johnson, says: “Whether my letter is -printed or not, is a matter of entire indifference to me, (personally) -... it was only at your desire, and to please Dr. Bunnell, that I wrote -the little I did. I left you under the impression that you desired to -get at the exact facts and would be glad to rectify the injustice done -to the doctor by the publication of Mr. Pratt’s communication.... I -believe that the publication of my letter would not only gratify him, -but also place the _Century_ right upon the record, where it surely -desires to stand.” - -Mr. Palmer could say no more, but to his great chagrin, but not -surprise, on March 17th, he received a letter of _thanks_ from the -associate editor of the _Century_, in which Mr. Johnson says: “Please -accept our thanks for your letter of the 14th, and for your obliging -attitude in the matter.” Whether any retraction from Mr. Pratt will -ever appear in the _Century_ is now, in view of the long delay, a -matter of great indifference to me.[7] - -Now a few facts in regard to the Discovery of the Yosemite Valley by -Capt. Joseph Reddeford Walker, for whom Walker’s river, Lake and Pass -were named. It is not a new claim, as supposed by Mr. R. U. Johnson, -but appears in the _Peoples Encyclopædia_ and was set up in the _San -Jose Pioneer_ soon after Capt. Walker’s death, and answered by me in -the same paper in 1880. - -I cheerfully concede the fact set forth in the _Pioneer_ article -that, “_His were the first white man’s eyes that ever looked upon the -Yosemite_” above the valley, and in that sense, he was certainly the -original white discoverer. - -The topography of the country over which the Mono trail ran, and -which was followed by Capt. Walker, did not admit of his seeing -the valley proper. The depression indicating the valley, and its -magnificent surroundings, could alone have been discovered, and in -Capt. Walker’s conversations with me at various times while encamped -between Coultersville and the Yosemite, he was manly enough to say so. -Upon one occasion I told Capt. Walker that Ten-ie-ya had said that, -“A small party of white men once crossed the mountains on the north -side, but were so guided as not to see the valley proper.” With a smile -the Captain said: “That was my party, but I was not deceived, for the -lay of the land showed there was a valley below; but we had become -nearly bare-footed, our animals poor, and ourselves on the verge of -starvation, so we followed down the ridge to Bull Creek, where, killing -a deer, we went into camp.” - -The captain remained at his camp near Coultersville for some weeks, -and disappeared as suddenly as he came. He once expressed a desire to -re-visit the region of the Yosemite in company with me, but could fix -no date, as he told me he was in daily expectation of a government -appointment as guide, which I learned was finally given him. - -Captain Walker was a very eccentric man, well versed in the vocal -and sign languages of the Indians, and went at his will among them. -He may have visited the Yosemite from his camp before leaving. I was -strongly impressed by the simple and upright character of Captain -Walker, and his mountain comrades spoke in the highest praise of his -ability. Fremont, Kit Carson, Bill Williams, Alex Gody, Vincenthaler -(not Vincent Haler, as erroneously appeared in the March number of -the _Century_), Ferguson and others, all agreed in saying that as a -mountain man, Captain Walker had no superior. - -Rev. D. D. Chapin, of Maysville, Kentucky, formerly rector of Trinity -Church, San Jose, and of St. Peter’s Church, San Francisco, as well as -editor of _Pacific Churchman_, kindly called my attention to a seeming -neglect of the claim for Captain Walker as the discoverer of the -Yosemite. All that I have ever claimed for myself is, that I was _one_ -of the party of white men who first _entered_ the Yosemite valley, as -far as known to the Indians. - -The fact of my naming the valley cannot be disputed. The existence of -some terribly yawning abyss in the mountains, guarded at its entrance -by a frightful “Rock Chief,” from whose head rocks would be hurled down -upon us if we attempted to enter that resort of demons, was frequently -described to us by crafty or superstitious Indians. Hence the greater -our surprise upon first beholding a fit abode for angels of light. As -for myself, I freely confess that my feelings of hostility against -the Indians were overcome by a sense of exaltation; and although I -had suffered losses of property and friends, the natural right of the -Indians to their inheritance forced itself upon my mind. - -The Mariposa Battalion, was assigned by Governor McDougall to the duty -of keeping in subjection the Indian tribes on the east side of the -San Joaquin and Tulare valleys, from the Tuolumne river to the Te-hon -Pass. As soon as the battalion was organized, Major Savage began his -preparations for an expedition. There was but little delay in fitting -out. Scouting parties were sent out, but with no other effect than -to cause a general retreat of the Indians to the mountains, and a -cessation of hostilities, except the annoyances from the small bands -of thieving marauders. No Indians were overtaken by those detachments, -though they were often seen provokingly near. When about to start on -a more extended expedition to the mountains, Major Savage received an -order from the Governor to suspend hostile operations until he should -receive further instructions. We learned at about the same time through -the newspapers, as well as from the Governor’s messenger, that the -United States Commissioners had arrived in San Francisco. Their arrival -had for some time been expected. - -Up to this period the Indian affairs of California had not been -officially administered upon. Public officers had not before been -appointed to look after the vast landed estates of the aboriginal -proprietors of this territory, and to provide for their heirs. After -some delay, the commissioners arrived at our camp, which was located -about fifteen miles below Mariposa village. Here the grazing was -most excellent, and for that reason they temporarily established -their head-quarters. These officials were Colonels Barbour and McKee, -and Dr. Woozencroft. They were accompanied by Col. Neely Johnson, -the Governor’s aid, and by a small detachment of regulars. The -commissioners at once proceeded to make a thorough investigation into -the cause of the war, and of the condition of affairs generally. Having -secured the services of some of the Mission Indians, these were sent -out with instructions to notify all the tribes that the commissioners -had been directed by the President to make peace between them and the -white settlers; and that if they would come in, they should be assured -protection. - -The so-called Mission Indians were members of different tribes who -had been instructed in the belief of the Catholic Church, at the old -Spanish Missions. These Indians had not generally taken part in the war -against the white settlers, although some of them, with the hostiles, -were the most treacherous of their race, having acquired the vices and -none of the virtues of their white instructors. - -During this period of preliminaries a few Indians ventured in to have -a talk with the commissioners. They were very shy and suspicious, for -all had been more or less implicated in the depredations that had been -committed. Presents were lavishly distributed, and assurances were -given that all who came in should be supplied with food and clothing -and other useful things. This policy soon became generally known to the -Indians. - -Among the delegations that visited the commissioners were -Vow-ches-ter,[8] chief of one of the more peaceful bands, and Russio, -a Mission Indian from the Tuolumne, but who in former years had -belonged to some of the San Joaquin tribes. These chiefs had always -appeared friendly, and had not joined in the hostile attitude assumed -by the others. At the outbreak on the Fresno, Vow-ches-ter had been -temporarily forced into hostilities by the powerful influence of Jose -Rey, and by his desire to secure protection to his relative, one of -Savage’s squaws. But with the fall of Jose Rey, his influence over -Vow-ches-ter declined, and he was once more left free to show his -friendship for the whites. As for Russio, his intelligent services -were secured as peace-maker and general Indian interpreter by the -commissioners, while a much less competent Mission Indian, Sandino, -served in the capacity of interpreter during expeditions into the -mountains. - -Having been assured of safety, these two chiefs promised to bring in -their people and make peace with the whites. All that came in promised -a cessation, on the part of their tribes, of the hostilities begun, for -which they were rewarded with presents. - -Vow-chester when questioned, stated “that the mountain tribes would -not listen to any terms of peace involving the abandonment of their -territory; that in the fight near the North Fork of the San Joaquin, -Jose Rey had been badly wounded and probably would die; that his tribe -were very angry, and would not make peace.” We had up to this time -supposed Jose Rey had been killed at “Battle Mountain.” Russio said: -“The Indians in the deep rocky valley on the Merced river do not wish -for peace, and will not come in to see the chiefs sent by the great -father to make treaties. They think the white men cannot find their -hiding places, and that therefore they cannot be driven out.” The other -Indians of the party confirmed Russio’s statements. Vow-chester was the -principal spokesman, and he said: “In this deep valley spoken of by -Russio, one Indian is more than ten white men. The hiding places are -many. They will throw rocks down on the white men, if any should come -near them. The other tribes dare not make war upon them, for they are -lawless like the grizzlies, and as strong. We are afraid to go to this -valley, for there are many witches there.” - -Some of us did not consider Vow-chester’s promise of friendship as -reliable. We regarded him as one of the hostile mountain Indians. He, -however, was never again engaged in hostilities against the whites. -I afterwards learned that Vow-chester and Savage had once professed a -strong friendship for each other. The trader at that time had taken a -bride who was closely allied to the chief. After the destruction of -Savage’s trading posts, in which Vow-chester had taken an active part -in procuring a forcible divorce and division of property (though the -murders were ascribed to the Chow-chillas), all forms of friendship -or relationship had ceased. At this interview no sign of recognition -passed. After listening to this parley between the Commissioners and -the Indians, I asked Major Savage, who had been acting as interpreter, -if he had ever been into the deep valley the Indians had been speaking -of. He at first replied that he had, but on a subsequent conversation -he corrected this statement by saying, “Last year while I was located -at the mouth of the South Fork of the Merced, I was attacked by the -Yosemites, but with the Indian miners I had in my employ, drove them -off, and followed some of them up the Merced river into a canon, which -I supposed led to their stronghold, as the Indians then with me said -it was not a safe place to go into. From the appearance of this rocky -gorge I had no difficulty in believing them. Fearing an ambush, I did -not follow them. It was on this account that I changed my location -to Mariposa creek. I would like to get into the den of the thieving -murderers. If ever I have a chance I will smoke out the Grizzly Bears -(the Yosemites) from their holes, where they are thought to be so -secure.” - -No peace messengers came in from the mountain Indians, who continued -to annoy the settlers with their depredations, thieving from the -miner’s camps, and stealing horses and mules from the ranches. While -we were awaiting the action of the commissioners, we lost some horses -and mules, which were stolen from the vicinity of our camp. After -the commissioners had decided upon the measures to be adopted, our -battalion was ordered into line and we were then officially informed -by Col. Johnson, that our operations as a military organization, would -henceforth be under the direction of the United States Commissioners. -That by their order we were now assigned to the duty of subduing such -Indian tribes as could not otherwise be induced to make treaties -with them, and at once cease hostilities and depredations. “Your -officers will make all reports to the commissioners. Your orders and -instructions will hereafter be issued by them.” The colonel then -complimented the soldierly appearance of the battalion (very customary -in later years) and then said: “While I do not hesitate to denounce -the Indians for the murders and robberies committed by them, we should -not forget that there may perhaps be circumstances which, if taken -into consideration, might to some extent excuse their hostility to -the whites. They probably feel that they themselves are the aggrieved -party, looking upon us as trespassers upon their territory, invaders of -their country, and seeking to dispossess them of their homes. It may -be, they class us with the Spanish invaders of Mexico and California, -whose cruelties in civilizing and christianizing them are still -traditionally fresh in their memories,” etc. In conclusion the colonel -said: “As I am about to leave, I will now bid you ‘good bye,’ with -the hope that your actions will be in harmony with the wishes of the -commissioners, and that in the performance of your duties, you will in -all cases observe mercy where severity is not justly demanded.” - -Colonel Johnson gave us a very excellent little speech; but at that -time we were not fully impressed with the justness of the remarks which -had been made from kindness of heart and sincerely humane feelings. -Many of us had lost--some heavily--by the depredations of the Indians. -Friends and relatives had been victims of their atrocities. Murders and -robberies had been committed without provocations then discernible to -us. Many of us would then have been willing to adopt the methods of the -old Spanish missionaries, who, it was said, sometimes brought in their -converts with the lasso. However, these orders and the speech from Col. -Johnson were received with cheers by the more impatient and impulsive -of the volunteers, who preferred active service to the comparative -quiet of the camp. - -The commissioners selected a reservation on the Fresno, near the -foot-hills, about eighteen or twenty miles from our camp, to which the -Indian tribes with whom treaties had been made were to be removed, -and at this locality the commissioners also established a camp, as -head-quarters. - -The deliberative action on the part of the commissioners, who were very -desirous of having the Indians voluntarily come in to make treaties -with them, delayed any active co-operation on the part of our battalion -until the winter rains had fully set in. Our first extended expedition -to the mountains was made during the prevailing storms of the vernal -equinox, although detachments had previously made excursions into -the country bordering upon the Sierras. This region, like parts of -Virginia, proved impassable to a mounted force during the wet season, -and our operations were confined to a limited area. - -It was at last decided that more extended operations were necessary -to bring in the mountain tribes. Although there was no longer unity -of action among them, they refused to leave their retreats, and had -become even suspicious of each other. The defeat of Jose Rey, and the -desertion of the tribes who had made, or had promised to make, treaties -with the commissioners, and had ceased from all hostile demonstrations, -had caused jealousies and discontent to divide even the most turbulent -bands. For the extended operations of the battalion among the -mountains, it was decided that Major Savage, with the companies of -Captains Boling and Dill, should make expeditions which would require -him to traverse the regions of the San Joaquin and Merced rivers. -Captain Kuy-ken-dall with his company were to be detached to operate -for the same purpose in the regions of the Kings and Kah-we-ah rivers. -The Indians captured were to be escorted to the commissioners’ camp on -the Fresno. Notwithstanding a storm was gathering, our preparations -were cheerfully made, and when the order to “form into line” was given, -it was obeyed with alacrity. No “bugle call” announced orders to us; -the “details” were made quietly, and we as quietly assembled. Promptly -as the word of command “mount,” was given, every saddle was filled. -With “forward march,” we naturally filed off into the order of march so -readily assumed by mounted frontiersmen while traveling on a trail. - -We left our camp as quietly and as orderly as such an undisciplined -body could be expected to move, but Major Savage said that we must all -learn to be as still as Indians, or we would never find them. - -This battalion was a body of hardy, resolute pioneers. Many of them had -seen service, and had fought their way against the Indians across the -plains; some had served in the war with Mexico and been under military -discipline. - -Although ununiformed, they were well armed, and their similarities of -dress and accoutrements, gave them a general military appearance. - -The temperature was mild and agreeable at our camp near the plain, -but we began to encounter storms of cold rain as we reached the more -elevated localities. - -Major Savage being aware that rain on the foot-hills and plain at -that season of the year indicated snow higher up, sent forward scouts -to intercept such parties as might attempt to escape, but the storm -continued to rage with such violence as to render this order useless, -and we found the scouts awaiting us at the foot of a mountain known -as the Black Ridge. This ridge is a spur of the Sierra Nevada. It -separates the Mariposa, Chow-chilla, Fresno and San Joaquin rivers on -the south from the Merced on the north. While halting for a rest, and -sipping his coffee, Savage expressed an earnest desire to capture the -village he had ascertained to be located over the ridge on the south -fork of the Merced. He was of the opinion that if it could be reached -without their discovery of us, we should have no fighting to do there, -as that band would surrender at once rather than endanger their women -and children, who would be unable to escape through the snow. Toward -this village we therefore marched as rapidly as the nature of the -steep and snow-obstructed trail would permit us to travel. An Indian -that answered to the name of “Bob,” an _attaché_ of the Major, serving -as guide. Climbing up this steep black mountain, we soon reached the -region of snow, which at the summit, was fully four feet deep, though -the cold was not intense. By this time, night was upon us. The trail -led over the ridge at a point where its tabled summit was wooded with -a forest of pines, cedars and firs, so dense as almost to exclude the -light of the stars that now and then appeared struggling through the -gloom. - -We laboriously followed our guide and file leader, but this trail -was so indistinctly seen in the darkness, that at intervals deep -mutterings would be heard from some drowsy rider who missed the beaten -path. As we commenced the descent of the ridge, the expressions became -more forcible than polite when some unlucky ones found themselves -floundering in the snow below the uncertain trail. If left to their own -sagacity, a horse or mule will follow its leader; but if a self-willed -rider insists upon his own judgment, the poor animal has not only -to suffer the extra fatigue incurred by a mis-step, but also the -punishment of the spur, and hear the explosive maledictions of the -master. The irritating responses of his comrades that “another fool has -been discovered,” was not then calculated to sooth the wrath that was -then let loose. - -With short halts and repeated burrowings in the deep, damp snow, the -South Fork of the Merced was at length reached about a mile below what -is now known as Clark’s, or Wah-wo-na, from Wah-ha wo-na, a Big Tree. -We here made a halt, and our weary animals were provided with some -barley, for the snow was here over a foot deep. The major announced -that it was but a short distance below to the Indian village, and -called for volunteers to accompany him--it might be for a fight or -perhaps only a foot-race--circumstances would determine which. The -major’s call was promptly and fully answered, although all were much -fatigued with the tedious night march. The animals were left, and a -sufficient number was selected to remain as a reserve force and camp -guard. At daylight we filed away on foot to our destination, following -the major who was guided by “Bob.” - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - March Down the South Fork--Capture of an Indian Village--Hungry - Men--An able Surgeon--Snow Storms--Visit of Ten-ie-ya, Chief - of the Yosemites--Commander’s Dilemma--Unique Manner of - Extrication--Approaching the Valley--First View--Sensations - Experienced--A Lofty Flight Brought Down. - - -There was a very passable trail for horses leading down the right bank -of the river, but it was overlooked on the left bank by the Indian -village, which was situated on a high point at a curve in the river -that commanded an extensive view up and down. To avoid being seen, the -Major led us along down the left bank, where we were compelled, at -times, to wade into the rushing torrent to avoid the precipitous and -slippery rocks, which, in places, dipped into the stream. Occasionally, -from a stumble, or from the deceptive depths of the clear mountain -stream, an unfortunate one was immersed in the icy fluid, which seemed -colder than the snow-baths of the mountain. With every precaution, some -became victims to these mischances, and gave vent to their emotions, -when suddenly immersed, by hoarse curses, which could be heard above -the splash and roar of the noisy water. These men (headed by Surgeon -Bronson) chilled and benumbed, were sent back to the camp to “dry their -ammunition.”(?) After passing this locality--our march thus far having -alternated in snow and water--we arrived, without being discovered, in -sight of the smoke of their camp-fires, where we halted for a short -rest. - -Major Savage gave some orders to Captain Boling which were not then -understood by me. On again resuming our march, the Major, with “Bob,” -started at a rapid step, while the others maintained a slow gait. - -I followed the Major as I had been accustomed during the march. I soon -heard an _audible smile_, evidently at my expense. I comprehended that -I had somehow “sold” myself, but as the Major said nothing, I continued -my march. I observed a pleased expression in the Major’s countenance, -and a twinkle of his eyes when he glanced back at me as if he enjoyed -the fun of the “boys” behind us, while he increased his speed to an -Indian jog-trot. I determined to appear as unconscious, as innocent -of my blunder, and accommodate my gait to his movements. My pride or -vanity was touched, and I kept at his heels as he left the trot for a -more rapid motion. After a run of a mile or more, we reached the top -of a narrow ridge which overlooked the village. The Major here cast a -side glance at me as he threw himself on the ground, saying: “I always -prided myself on my endurance, but somehow this morning my bottom -fails me.” As quietly as I could I remarked that he had probably been -traveling faster than he was aware of, as “Bob” must be some way behind -us. After a short scrutiny of my unconcerned innocence, he burst into -a low laugh and said: “Bunnell, you play it well, and you have beaten -me at a game of my own choosing. I have tested your endurance, however; -such qualifications are really valuable in our present business.” -He then told me as I seated myself near him, that he saw I had not -understood the order, and had increased his speed, thinking I would -drop back and wait for the others to come up, as he did not wish to -order me back, although he had preferred to make this scout alone with -“Bob,” as they were both acquainted with the band and the region they -occupy. While we were resting “Bob” came up. The Major gave him some -direction in an Indian dialect I did not understand, and he moved on to -an adjoining thicket, while the Major and myself crawled to the shelter -of a bunch of blue brush (California lilac), just above where we had -halted. - -After obtaining the desired information without being seen, Bob was -sent back to Captain Boling to “hurry him up.” While awaiting the -arrival of our command, I, in answer to his inquiries, informed the -Major that I had come to Detroit, Michigan, in 1833, when it was -but little more than a frontier village; that the Indians annually -assembled there and at Malden, Canada, to receive their annuities. At -that time, being but nine years of age, and related to Indian traders, -I was brought in contact with their customers, and soon learned their -language, habits and character, which all subsequent attempts to -civilize me had failed entirely to eradicate. This statement evidently -pleased the Major, and finding me familiar with frontier life, he -continued his conversation, and I soon learned that I was acquainted -with some of his friends in the Northwest. I have related this incident -because it was the beginning of an intimate friendship which ever -afterward existed between us. - -On the arrival of Captains Boling and Dill with their respective -companies, we were deployed into skirmish line, and advanced toward -the encampment without any effort at concealment. On discovering us -the Indians hurriedly ran to and fro, as if uncertain what course -to pursue. Seeing an unknown force approaching, they threw up their -hands in token of submission, crying out at the same time in Spanish, -“_Pace! pace!_” (peace! peace!) We were at once ordered to halt while -Major Savage went forward to arrange for the surrender. The Major was -at once recognized and cordially received by such of the band as he -desired to confer with officially. We found the village to be that of -Pon-wat-chee, a chief of the Noot-chü tribe, whose people had formerly -worked for Savage under direction of Cow-chit-ty, his brother, and -from whose tribe Savage had taken Ee-e-ke-no, one of his former wives. -The chief professed still to entertain feelings of friendship for -Savage, saying that he was now willing to obey his counsels. Savage, in -response, lost no time in preliminary affairs. - -He at once told the chief the object of the expedition, and his -requirements. His terms were promptly agreed to, and before we had time -to examine the captives or their wigwams, they had commenced packing -their supplies and removing their property from their bark huts. This -done, the torch was applied by the Indians themselves, in token of -their sincerity in removing to the Reservations on the Fresno. - -By the Major’s orders they had at once commenced their preparations for -removal to a rendezvous, which he had selected nearly opposite this -encampment, which was accessible to horses. This plateau was also the -location designated for our camp. This camp was afterwards used by an -employé at the agency, whose name was Bishop, and was known as Bishop’s -Camp. It is situated on an elevated table, on the right side of the -valley of the South Fork. - -While the Indians were preparing for their transfer to the place -selected, our tired and hungry men began to feel the need of rest and -refreshments. We had traveled a much longer distance since the morning -before than had been estimated in expectation of a halt, and many of -the men had not tasted food since the day before. - -John Hankin told Major Savage that if a roast dog could be procured, -he would esteem it an especial favor. Bob McKee thought this a capital -time to learn to eat acorn bread, but after trying some set before him -by “a young and accomplished squaw,” as the Major cynically termed -her, concluded he was not yet hungry enough for its enjoyment. - -A call was made for volunteers to go back to bring up the reserve -and supplies, but the service was not very promptly accepted. McKee, -myself and two others, however, offered to go with the order to move -down to the selected rendezvous. Three Indians volunteered to go with -us as guides; one will seldom serve alone. We found the trail on the -right bank less laborious to travel than was expected, for the snow -had mostly disappeared from the loose, sandy soil, which upon this -side of the river has a southwesterly exposure. On our arrival in camp -preparations were begun to obey the order of the Major. While coffee -was being prepared Doctor Bronson wisely prescribed and most skillfully -administered to us a refreshing draught of “_Aqua Ardente_.” - -After a hasty _breakfast_, we took to our saddles, and taking a supply -of biscuits and cold meat, left the train and arrived at the new camp -ground just as our hungry comrades came up from the Indian village. The -scanty supplies, carried on our saddles, were thankfully received and -speedily disposed of. The Indians had not yet crossed the river. We -found that we had traveled about twelve miles, while our comrades and -the captives had accomplished only three. - -From this camp, established as our headquarters, or as a base of -operations while in this vicinity, Major Savage sent Indian runners -to the bands who were supposed to be hiding in the mountains. These -messengers were instructed to assure all the Indians that if they -would go and make treaties with the commissioners, they would there be -furnished with food and clothing, and receive protection, but if they -did not come in, he should make war upon them until he destroyed them -all. - -Pon-wat-chee had told the Major when his own village was captured, -that a small band of Po-ho-no-chees were encamped on the sunny slope -of the divide of the Merced, and he having at once dispatched a runner -to them, they began to come into camp. This circumstance afforded -encouragement to the Major, but Pon-wat-chee was not entirely sanguine -of success with the Yosemites, though he told the Major that if the -snow continued deep they could not escape. - -At first but few Indians came in, and these were very cautious--dodging -behind rocks and trees, as if fearful we would not recognize their -friendly signals. - -Being fully assured by those who had already come in, of friendly -treatment, all soon came in who were in our immediate vicinity. None -of the Yosemites had responded to the general message sent. Upon a -special envoy being sent to the chief, he appeared the next day in -person. He came alone, and stood in dignified silence before one of -the guard, until motioned to enter camp. He was immediately recognized -by Pon-wat-chee as Ten-ie-ya, the old chief of the Yosemites, and was -kindly cared for--being well supplied with food--after which, with the -aid of the other Indians, the Major informed him of the wishes of the -commissioners. The old sachem was very suspicious of Savage, and feared -he was taking this method of getting the Yosemites into his power for -the purpose of revenging his personal wrongs. Savage told him that -if he would go to the commissioners and make a treaty of peace with -them, as the other Indians were going to do, there would be no more -war. Ten-ie-ya cautiously inquired as to the object of taking all the -Indians to the plains of the San Joaquin valley, and said: “My people -do not want anything from the ‘Great Father’ you tell me about. The -Great Spirit is our father, and he has always supplied us with all we -need. We do not want anything from white men. Our women are able to do -our work. Go, then; let us remain in the mountains where we were born; -where the ashes of our fathers have been given to the winds. I have -said enough!” - -This was abruptly answered by Savage, in Indian dialect and gestures: -“If you and your people have all you desire, why do you steal our -horses and mules? Why do you rob the miners’ camps? Why do you murder -the white men, and plunder and burn their houses?” - -Ten-ie-ya sat silent for some time; it was evident he understood what -Savage had said, for he replied: “My young men have sometimes taken -horses and mules from the whites. It was wrong for them to do so. It is -not wrong to take the property of enemies, who have wronged my people. -My young men believed the white gold-diggers were our enemies; we now -know they are not, and we will be glad to live in peace with them. -We will stay here and be friends. My people do not want to go to the -plains. The tribes who go there are some of them very bad. They will -make war on my people. We cannot live on the plains with them. Here we -can defend ourselves against them.” - -In reply to this Savage very deliberately and firmly said: “Your people -must go to the Commissioners and make terms with them. If they do not, -your young men will again steal our horses, your people will again kill -and plunder the whites. It was your people who robbed my stores, burned -my houses, and murdered my men. If they do not make a treaty, your -whole tribe will be destroyed, not one of them will be left alive.” -At this vigorous ending of the Major’s speech, the old chief replied: -“It is useless to talk to you about who destroyed your property and -killed your people. If the Chow-chillas do not boast of it, they are -cowards, for they led us on. I am old and you can kill me if you will, -but what use to lie to you who know more than all the Indians, and can -beat them in their big hunts of deer and bear. Therefore I will not -lie to you, but promise that if allowed to return to my people I will -bring them in.” He was allowed to go. The next day he came back, and -said his people would soon come to our camp; that when he had told them -they could come with safety they were willing to go and make a treaty -with the men sent by the “Great Father,” who was so good and rich. -Another day passed, but no Indians made their appearance from the “deep -valley,” spoken of so frequently by those at our camp. The old chief -said the snow was so deep that they could not travel fast, that his -village was so far down (gesticulating, by way of illustration, with -his hands) that when the snow was deep on the mountains they would be -a long time climbing out of it. As we were at the time having another -storm Ten-ie-ya’s explanation was accepted, but was closely watched. - -The next day passed without their coming, although the snow storm had -ceased during the night before. It was then decided that it would be -necessary to go to the village of the Yosemites, and bring them in; and -in case they could not be found there, to follow to their hiding-places -in the deep cañon, so often represented as such a dangerous locality. -Ten-ie-ya was questioned as to the route and the time it would take his -people to come in; and when he learned we were going to his village, -he represented that the snow was so deep that the horses could not -go through it. He also stated that the rocks were so steep that our -horses could not climb out of the valley if they should go into it. -Captain Boling caused Ten-ie-ya’s statements to be made known to his -men. It was customary in all of our expeditions where the force was -divided, to call for volunteers. The men were accordingly drawn up -into line, and the call made that all who wished to go to the village -of the Yosemites were to step three paces to the front. When the -order to advance was given, to the surprise of Captains Boling and -Dill, each company moved in line as if on parade. The entire body had -volunteered. As a camp-guard was necessary, a call was then made for -volunteers for this duty. When the word “march” was again repeated, but -a limited number stepped to the front. Captain Boling, with a smile on -his good-natured face, said: “A camp-guard will have to be provided -in some way. I honor the sentiment that prompted you all to volunteer -for the exploration, and I also appreciate the sacrifice made by those -who are willing to stay; but these are too few. Our baggage, supplies -and Indian captives must be well guarded. I endeavored to make the -choice of duty voluntary, by representing the difficulties that might -reasonably be expected, and thus secure those best suited for the -respective duty of field and camp. I am baffled, but not defeated, for -I have another test of your fitness; it is a foot-race. You know it has -been represented to us by Ten-ie-ya that the route to his village is an -extremely difficult one, and impassable for our horses. It may not be -true, but it will be prudent to select men for the expedition who have -proved their endurance and fleetness. I now propose that you decide -what I have found so difficult.” - -This proposition was received with shouts of laughter, and the -arrangements for the contest were at once commenced, as it afforded a -source of frolicsome amusement. A hundred yards were paced off, and the -goal conspicuously marked. A distance line was to determine who should -constitute the camp-guard. I doubt if such boisterous hilarity and -almost boyish merriment was ever before seen while making a detail from -any military organization. - -The Indians were at first somewhat alarmed at the noisy preparations, -and began to be fearful of their safety, but on learning the cause -of the excitement, they, too, became interested in the proceedings, -and expressed a desire to participate in the race. Two or three were -allowed to join in as proxies for the _“heavy ones”_ who concluded not -to run, though willing to pay the young Indians to represent them in -the race, provided they came out ahead. One young Indian did beat every -man, except Bob McKee, for whom he manifested great admiration. Many -anxious ones ran bare-footed in the snow. The Indian’s motions were -not impeded by any civilized garments; a modest waist cloth was all -they had on. In subsequent races, after a long rest, several of our -men demonstrated that their racing powers were superior to the fastest -of the Indian runners. Captain Boling’s racing scheme brought out the -strong points of the runners. Enough were distanced in both companies -to secure an ample camp-guard. The envious guard raised the point that -this method of detail was simply a proof of legs, not brains. It was -reported in camp that Captain Boling had kept a record of the speedy -ones which he had filed away for future use in cases where fleetness of -foot would be required for extra duties. - -Preparations were made for an early start the next morning. The officer -to be left in charge of the camp was instructed to allow the Indians -all liberty consistent with _safety_, and to exercise no personal -restraint over them unless there should be an evident attempt to -leave in a body; when, of course, any movement of the kind was to -be defeated. The Major said: “I deem the presence of the women and -children a sufficient hostage for the peaceful conduct of the men, -but do not allow _any of them_ to enter our tents, or we may lose -possession.” - -This last injunction was to guard against annoyance from vermin. The -_pediculi_ of the Indian race have an especial affinity for them. White -people have but little to fear from Indian vermin except the temporary -annoyance that is experienced from some species that infest animals and -birds. They do not find the transfer congenial, and soon disappear. -This fact may not be generally known, but I believe it to be a normal -arrangement for the exclusive _comfort_ of the Indian. - -To me this is quite suggestive, when considered as evidence of a -diversity of origin of the races. I have been very particular in -my observations in this matter, and have compared my own with the -experiences of others, and have been led to the conclusion that each -separate race has parasites indigenous to that race, although the genus -may be common to each. - -This reluctant adaptability of these “entomological inconveniences” -saved us from one of the curses of the ancient Egyptians, when contact -was unavoidable. - -As no information had been received from the camp of the Yosemites, -after an early breakfast, the order was passed to “fall in,” and when -the order “march” was given, we moved off in single file, Savage -leading, with Ten-ie-ya as guide. - -From the length of time taken by the chief to go and return from his -encampment, it was supposed that with horses, and an early start, we -should be able to go and return the same day, if for any cause it -should be deemed desirable, although sufficient supplies were taken, in -case of a longer delay. - -While ascending to the divide between the South Fork and the main -Merced we found but little snow, but at the divide, and beyond, it was -from three to five feet in depth, and in places much deeper. The sight -of this somewhat cooled our ardor, but none asked for a “_furlough_.” - -To somewhat equalize the laborious duties of making a trail, each man -was required to take his turn in front. The leader of the column was -frequently changed; no horse or mule could long endure the fatigue -without relief. To effect this, the tired leader dropped out of line, -resigning his position to his followers, taking a place in the rear, -on the beaten trail, exemplifying, that “the first shall be last, and -the last shall be first.” The snow packed readily, so that a very -comfortable trail was left in the rear of our column. - -Old Ten-ie-ya relaxed the rigidity of his bronze features, in -admiration of our method of making a trail, and assured us, that, -notwithstanding the depth of snow, we would soon reach his village. We -had in our imaginations pictured it as in some deep rocky canon in the -mountains. - -While in camp the frantic efforts of the old chief to describe the -location to Major Savage, had resulted in the unanimous verdict among -the “boys,” who were observing him, that “it must be a devil of a -place.” Feeling encouraged by the hope that we should soon arrive -at the residences of his Satanic majesty’s subjects, we wallowed -on, alternately becoming the object of a joke, as we in turn were -extricated from the drifts. When we had traversed a little more than -half the distance, as was afterwards proved, we met the Yosemites on -their way to our rendezvous on the South Fork. - -As they filed past us, the major took account of their number, which -was but seventy-two. As they reached our beaten trail, satisfaction -was variously expressed, by grunts from the men, by the low rippling -laughter from the squaws, and by the children clapping their hands in -glee at the sight. On being asked where the others of his band were, -the old Sachem said, “This is all of my people that are willing to -go with me to the plains. Many that have been with me are from other -tribes. They have taken wives from my band; all have gone with their -wives and children to the Tuolumne and to the Monos.” Savage told -Ten-ie-ya that he was telling him that which was not true. The Indians -could not cross the mountains in the deep snow, neither could they go -over the divide of the Tuolumne. That he knew they were still at his -village or in hiding places near it. Ten-ie-ya assured the major he was -telling him the truth, and in a very solemn manner declared that none -of his band had been left behind--that all had gone before his people -had left. His people had not started before because of the snow storm. - -With a belief that but a small part of Ten-ie-ya’s band was with -this party, Major Savage decided to go on to the Indian village and -ascertain if any others could be found or traces of them discovered. -This decision was a satisfactory one and met with a hearty approval as -it was reported along the line. - -This tribe had been estimated by Pon-wat-chee and Cow-chit-tee, -as numbering more than two hundred; as about that number usually -congregated when they met together to “_cache_” their acorns in the -valley, or for a grand annual hunt and drive of game; a custom which -secured an abundant supply for the feast that followed. - -At other times they were scattered in bands on the sunny slopes of the -ridges, and in the mountain glens. Ten-ie-ya had been an unwilling -guide thus far, and Major Savage said to him: “You may return to camp -with your people, and I will take one of your young men with me. There -are but few of your people here. Your tribe is large. I am going to -your village to see your people, who will not come with you. They -_will_ come with me if I find them.” - -Savage then selected one of the young “braves” to accompany him. -Ten-ie-ya replied, as the young Indian stepped forward by his -direction, “I will go with my people; my young man shall go with you to -my village. You will not find any people there. I do not know where -they are. My tribe is small--not large, as the white chief has said. -The Pai-utes and Mono’s are all gone. Many of the people with my tribe -are from western tribes that have come to me and do not wish to return. -If they go to the plains and are seen, they will be killed by the -friends of those with whom they had quarreled. I have talked with my -people and told them I was going to see the white chiefs sent to make -peace. I was told that I was growing old, and it was well that I should -go, but that young and strong men can find plenty in the mountains; -therefore why should they go? to be yarded like horses and cattle. My -heart has been sore since that talk, but I am now willing to go, for it -is best for my people that I do so.” - -The Major listened to the old Indian’s volubility for awhile, but -interrupted him with a cheering “Forward march!” at which the impatient -command moved briskly forward over the now partly broken trail, leaving -the chief alone, as his people had already gone on. - -We found the traveling much less laborious than before, and it seemed -but a short time after we left the Indians before we suddenly came -in full view of the valley in which was the village, or rather the -encampments of the Yosemities. The immensity of rock I had seen in -my vision on the Old Bear Valley trail from Ridley’s Ferry was here -presented to my astonished gaze. The mystery of that scene was here -disclosed. My awe was increased by this nearer view. The face of the -immense cliff was shadowed by the declining sun; its outlines only had -been seen at a distance. This towering mass - - “Fools our fond gaze, and greatest of the great, - Defies at first our Nature’s littleness, - Till, growing with (to) its growth, we thus dilate - Our spirits to the size of that they contemplate.” - -That stupendous cliff is now known as “El Capitan” (the Captain), and -the plateau from which we had our first view of the valley, as Mount -Beatitude. - -[Illustration: EL CAPITAN. - -(3,300 feet in height.)] - -It has been said that “it is not easy to describe in words the precise -impressions which great objects make upon us.” I cannot describe how -completely I realized this truth. None but those who have visited -this most wonderful valley, can even imagine the feelings with which -I looked upon the view that was there presented. The grandeur of the -scene was but softened by the haze that hung over the valley,--light as -gossamer--and by the clouds which partially dimmed the higher cliffs -and mountains. This obscurity of vision but increased the awe with -which I beheld it, and as I looked, a peculiar exalted sensation seemed -to fill my whole being, and I found my eyes in tears with emotion. - -During many subsequent visits to this locality, this sensation was -never again so fully aroused. It is probable that the shadows fast -clothing all before me, and the vapory clouds at the head of the -valley, leaving the view beyond still undefined, gave a weirdness to -the scene, that made it so impressive; and the conviction that it -was utterly indescribable added strength to the emotion. It is not -possible for the same intensity of feeling to be aroused more than once -by the same object, although I never looked upon these scenes except -with wonder and admiration. - -Richardson, in his admirable work, “Beyond the Mississippi,” says: -“See Yosemite and die! I shall not attempt to describe it; the subject -is too large and my capacity too small.... Painfully at first these -stupendous walls confuse the mind. By degrees, day after day, the -sight of them clears it, until at last one receives a just impression -of their solemn immensity.... Volumes ought to be and will be written -about it.” - -Mr. Richardson has expressed in graphic language the impressions -produced upon nearly all who for the first time behold this wonderful -valley. The public has now, to a certain degree, been prepared for -these scenes. - -They are educated by the descriptions, sketches, photographs and -masterly paintings of Hill and Bierstadt; whereas, on our first visit, -our imagination had been misled by the descriptive misrepresentations -of savages, whose prime object was to keep us from their safe retreat, -until we had expected to see some terrible abyss. The reality so little -resembled the picture of imagination, that my astonishment was the more -overpowering. - -To obtain a more distinct and _quiet_ view, I had left the trail and my -horse and wallowed through the snow alone to a projecting granite rock. -So interested was I in the scene before me, that I did not observe that -my comrades had all moved on, and that I would soon be left indeed -alone. My situation attracted the attention of Major Savage,--who was -riding in rear of column,--who hailed me from the trail below with, -“you had better wake up from that dream up there, or you may lose -your hair; I have no faith in Ten-ie-ya’s statement that there are no -Indians about here. We had better be moving; some of the murdering -devils may be lurking along this trail to pick off stragglers.” I -hurriedly joined the Major on the descent, and as other views presented -themselves, I said with some enthusiasm, “If my hair is now required, -I can depart in peace, for I have here seen the power and glory of a -Supreme being; the majesty of His handy-work is in that ‘Testimony of -the Rocks.’ That mute appeal--pointing to El Capitan--illustrates it, -with more convincing eloquence than can the most powerful arguments of -surpliced priests.” “Hold up, Doc! you are soaring too high for me; and -perhaps for yourself. This is rough riding; we had better mind this -devilish trail, or we shall go _soaring_ over some of these slippery -rocks.” We, however, made the descent in safety. When we overtook the -others, we found blazing fires started, and preparations commenced to -provide supper for the hungry command; while the light-hearted “boys” -were indulging their tired horses with the abundant grass found on the -meadow near by, which was but lightly covered with snow. - -Mr. J. M. Hutchings has recently cited Elliott’s History of Fresno -County and dispatches from Major Savage as proof that it was May 5th -or 6th, 1851, that the Mariposa Battalion first entered the Yosemite. -As a matter of fact, our adjutant was not with us when the discovery -was made in March, nor was there ever but two companies in the Yosemite -at any time, Boling’s and part of Dill’s. Captain Dill himself was -detailed for duty at the Fresno, after the expedition in March, as -was also the adjutant. In making out his report, Mr. Lewis must have -ignored the first entry of the valley by the few men who discovered it, -and made his first entry to appear as the date of the discovery. This -may or may not have been done to give importance to the operations of -the battalion. I have never seen the report. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - Naming the Valley--Signification and Origin of the Word--Its proper - Pronunciation: Yo-sem-i-ty--Mr. Hutchings and Yo-Ham-i-te--His - Restoration of Yo-sem-i-te. - - -My devout astonishment at the supreme grandeur of the scenery by which -I was surrounded, continued to engross my mind. The warmth of the fires -and preparations for supper, however, awakened in me other sensations, -which rapidly dissipated my excitement. As we rode up, Major Savage -remarked to Capt. Boling, “We had better move on up, and hunt out the -“Grizzlies” before we go into camp for the night. We shall yet have -considerable time to look about this hole before dark.” Captain Boling -then reported that the young guide had halted here, and poured out a -volley of Indian lingo which no one could understand, and had given a -negative shake of his head when the course was pointed out, and signs -were made for him to move on. The Captain, not comprehending this -performance, had followed the trail of the Indians to the bank of the -stream near by, but had not ventured further, thinking it best to wait -for Major Savage to come up. After a few inquiries, the Major said -there was a ford below, where the Indians crossed the Merced; and that -he would go with the guide and examine it. Major Savage and Captains -Boling and Dill then started down to the crossing. They soon returned, -and we were ordered to arrange our camp for the night. Captain Boling -said the Merced was too high to ford. The river had swollen during the -day from the melting of the snow, but would fall again by morning. - -The guide had told the Major there was no other way up the valley, as -it was impossible to pass the rocks on the south side of the stream. -From this, it was evident the Major had never before seen the valley, -and upon inquiry, said so. One of our best men, Tunnehill, who had been -listening to what the Captain was saying, very positively remarked: “I -have long since learned to discredit everything told by an Indian. I -never knew one to tell the truth. This imp of Satan has been lying to -the Major, and to me his object is very transparent. He knows a better -ford than the one below us.” A comrade laughingly observed: “Perhaps -you can find it for the Major, and help him give us an evening ride; I -have had all the exercise I need to-day, and feel as hungry as a wolf.” -Without a reply, Tunnehill mounted his little black mule and left at a -gallop. He returned in a short time, at the same rapid gate, but was -in a sorry plight. The mule and rider had unexpectedly taken a plunge -bath in the ice-cold waters of the Merced. As such mishaps excited but -little sympathy, Tunnehill was greeted with: “Hallo! what’s the matter, -comrade?” “Where do you get your washing done?” “Been trying to cool -off that frisky animal, have you?” “Old Ten-ie-ya’s Cañon is not in as -hot a place as we supposed, is it?” “How about the reliability of the -Indian race?” To all these bantering jokes, though in an uncomfortable -plight, Tunnehill, with great good nature, replied: “I am all right! -I believe in orthodox immersion, but this kind of baptism has only -_confirmed_ me in previous convictions.” The shivering mule was rubbed, -blanketed, and provided for, before his master attended to his own -comfort, and then we learned that, in his attempt to explore a way -across the Merced, his mule was swept off its feet, and both were -carried for some distance down the raging torrent. - -[Illustration: BRIDAL VEIL FALL. - -(630 feet in height.)] - -After supper, guards stationed, and the camp fires plentifully provided -for, we gathered around the burning logs of oak and pine, found near -our camp. The hearty supper and cheerful blaze created a general good -feeling. Social converse and anecdotes--mingled with jokes--were -freely exchanged, as we enjoyed the solace of our pipes and warmed -ourselves preparatory to seeking further refreshment in sleep. While -thus engaged, I retained a full consciousness of our locality; for -being in close proximity to the huge cliff that had so attracted my -attention, my mind was frequently drawn away from my comrades. After -the jollity of the camp had somewhat subsided, the valley became the -topic of conversation around our camp fire. None of us at that time, -surmised the extreme vastness of those cliffs; although before dark, -we had seen El Capitan looking down upon our camp, while the “Bridal -Veil” was being wafted in the breeze. Many of us _felt_ the mysterious -grandeur of the scenery, as defined by our limited opportunity to study -it. I had--previous to my descent with the Major--observed the towering -height above us of the old “Rock Chief,” and noticing the length of the -steep descent into the valley, had at least some idea of its solemn -immensity. - -It may appear _sentimental_, but the coarse jokes of the careless, -and the indifference of the practical, sensibly jarred my more devout -feelings, while this subject was a matter of general conversation; as -if a sacred subject had been ruthlessly profaned, or the visible power -of Deity disregarded. After relating my observations from the “Old Bear -Valley Trail,” I suggested that this valley should have an appropriate -name by which to designate it, and in a tone of pleasantry, said to -Tunnehill, who was drying his wet clothing by our fire, “You are the -first white man that ever received any form of baptism in this valley, -and you should be considered the proper person to give a baptismal name -to the valley itself.” He replied, “If whisky can be provided for such -a ceremony, I shall be happy to participate; but if it is to be another -cold water affair, I have no desire to take a hand. I have done enough -in that line for to-night.” Timely jokes and ready repartee for a time -changed the subject, but in the lull of this exciting pastime, some one -remarked, “I like Bunnell’s suggestion of giving this valley a name, -and to-night is a good time to do it.” “All right--if you have got one, -show your hand,” was the response of another. Different names were -proposed, but none were satisfactory to a majority of our circle. Some -romantic and foreign names were offered, but I observed that a very -large number were canonical and Scripture names. From this I inferred -that I was not the only one in whom religious emotions or thoughts had -been aroused by the mysterious power of the surrounding scenery. - -As I did not take a fancy to any of the names proposed, I remarked -that “an American name would be the most appropriate;” that “I could -not see any necessity for going to a foreign country for a name for -American scenery--the grandest that had ever yet been looked upon. That -it would be better to give it an Indian name than to import a strange -and inexpressive one; that the name of the tribe who had occupied it, -would be more appropriate than any I had heard suggested.” I then -proposed “that we give the valley the name of Yo-sem-i-ty, as it was -suggestive, euphonious, and certainly _American_; that by so doing, -the name of the tribe of Indians which we met leaving their homes in -this valley, perhaps never to return, would be perpetuated.” I was -here interrupted “Devil take the Indians and their names! Why should -we honor these vagabond murderers by perpetuating their name?” Another -said: “I agree with Tunnehill;----the Indians and their names. Mad -Anthony’s plan for me! Let’s call this Paradise Valley.” In reply, I -said to the last speaker, “Still, for a young man with such _religious -tendencies_ they would be good objects on which to develop your -Christianity.” Unexpectedly, a hearty laugh was raised, which broke up -further discussion, and before opportunity was given for any others to -object to the name, John O’Neal, a rollicking Texan of Capt. Boling’s -company, vociferously announced to the whole camp the subject of our -discussion, by saying, “Hear ye! Hear ye! Hear ye! A vote will now be -taken to decide what name shall be given to this valley.” The question -of giving it the name of Yo-sem-i-ty was then explained; and upon -a _viva voce_ vote being taken, it was almost unanimously adopted. -The name that was there and thus adopted by us, while seated around -our camp fires, on the first visit of a white man to this remarkable -locality, is the name by which it is now known to the world. - -At the time I proposed this name, the signification of it (a grizzly -bear) was not generally known to our battalion, although “the -grizzlies” was frequently used to designate this tribe. Neither was it -pronounced with uniformity. For a correct pronunciation, Major Savage -was our best authority. He could speak the dialects of most of the -mountain tribes in this part of California, but he confessed that he -could not readily understand Ten-ie-ya, or the Indian guide, as they -appeared to speak a Pai-ute jargon. - -Major Savage checked the noisy demonstrations of our “Master of -Ceremonies,” but approvingly participated in our proceedings, and -told us that the name was Yo-sem-i-ty, as pronounced by Ten-ie-ya, or -O-soom-i-ty, as pronounced by some other bands; and that it signified a -full-grown grizzly bear. He further stated, that the name was given to -old Ten-ie-ya’s band, because of their lawless and predatory character. - -As I had observed that the different tribes in Mariposa County differed -somewhat in the pronunciation of this name, I asked an explanation of -the fact. With a smile and a look, as if he suspected I was quizzing -him, the Major replied: “They only differ, as do the Swedes, Danes and -Norwegians, or as in the different Shires of England; but you know -well enough how similar in sound words may be of entirely different -meaning, and how much depends on accent. I have found this to be the -greatest difficulty a learner has to contend with.” - -After the name had been decided upon, the Major narrated some of his -experiences in the use of the general “sign language”--as a Rocky -Mountain man--and his practice of it when he first came among the -California Indians, until he had acquired their language. The Major -regarded the Kah-we-ah, as the parent language of the San-Joaquin -Valley Indians, while that in use by the other mountain tribes in their -vicinity, were but so many dialects of Kah-we-ah, the Pai-ute and more -Northern tribes. When we sought our repose, it was with feelings of -quiet satisfaction that I wrapped myself in my blankets, and soundly -slept. - -I consider it proper, to digress somewhat from a regular narrative of -the incidents of our expedition, to consider some matters relative to -the name “Yosemity.” This was the form of orthography and pronunciation -originally in use by our battalion. Lieutenant Moore, of the U. S. A. -in his report of an expedition to the Valley in 1852, substituted -_e_ as the terminal letter, in place of _y_, in use by us; no doubt -thinking the use of _e_ more scholarly, or perhaps supposing Yosemite -to be of Spanish derivation. This orthography has been adopted, and is -in general use, but the proper pronunciation, as a consequence, is not -always attainable to the general reader. - -Sometime after the name had been adopted, I learned from Major Savage -that Ten-ie-ya repudiated the name for the Valley, but proudly -acknowledged it as the designation of his band, claiming that “when he -was a young chief, this name had been selected because they occupied -the mountains and valleys which were the favorite resort of the Grizzly -Bears, and because his people were expert in killing them. That his -tribe had adopted the name because those who had bestowed it were -afraid of ‘the Grizzlies’ and feared his band.” - -It was traditionary with the other Indians, that the band to which the -name Yosemite had been given, had originally been formed and was then -composed of outlaws or refugees from other tribes. That nearly all were -descendants of the neighboring tribes on both sides of “Kay-o-pha,” or -“_Skye Mountains_;” the “High Sierras.” - -Ten-ie-ya was asked concerning this tradition, and responded rather -loftily: “I am the descendant of an Ah-wah-ne-chee chief. His people -lived in the mountains and valley where my people have lived. The -valley was then called Ah-wah-nee. Ah-wah-ne-chee signifies the -dwellers in Ahwahnee.” - -I afterwards learned the traditional history of Ten-ie-ya’s ancestors. -His statement was to the effect, that the Ah-wah-ne-chees had many -years ago been a large tribe, and lived in territory now claimed by -him and his people. That by wars, and a fatal black-sickness (probably -smallpox or measles), nearly all had been destroyed. The survivors -of the band fled from the valley and joined other tribes. For years -afterward, the country was uninhabited; but few of the extinct tribe -ever visited it, and from a superstitions fear, it was avoided. Some of -his ancestors had gone to the Mono tribe and been adopted by them. His -father had taken a wife from that tribe. His mother was a Mono woman, -and he had lived with her people while young. Eventually, Ten-ie-ya, -with some of his father’s tribe had visited the valley, and claimed it -as their birth-right. He thus became the founder of the new tribe or -band, which has since been called the “Yosemite.” - -It is very probable that the statement of Major Savage, as to the -origin of the name as applicable to Ten-ie-ya’s band; was traditional -with his informants, but I give credit to Ten-ie-ya’s own history of -his tribe as most probable. - -From my knowledge of Indian customs, I am aware that it is not uncommon -for them to change the names of persons or localities after some -remarkable event in the history of either. It would not, therefore, -appear strange that Ten-ie-ya should have adopted another name for -his band. I was unable to fix upon any definite date at which the -Ah-wah-ne-chees became extinct as a tribe, but from the fact that some -of the Yosemites claimed to be direct descendants, the time could not -have been as long as would be inferred from their descriptions. When -these facts were communicated to Captain Boling, and Ah-wah-ne was -ascertained to be the _classical_ name, the Captain said that name -was all right enough for history or poetry, but that we could not -now change the name Yosemite, nor was it desirable to do so. I made -every effort to ascertain the signification of Ah-wah-ne, but could -never fully satisfy myself, as I received different interpretations -at different times. In endeavoring to ascertain from Ten-ie-ya his -explanation of the name, he, by the motion of his hands, indicated -depth, while trying to illustrate the name, at the same time plucking -grass which he held up before me. From these “_signs_” I inferred that -it must mean the deep grassy valley. Still, it may not mean that. -Sandino was unable to give its true signification, saying by way of -explanation that Ah-wah-ne was a name of the old tribe, that he did -not know how to translate. Major Savage also said that Ten-ie-ya and a -few of the old Indians in his band used words which he did not fully -understand, and which the others could neither use nor explain. - -The dialect of the Yosemites was a composite of that of almost every -tribe around them; and even words of Spanish derivation were discovered -in their conversations. - -It is not uncommon for the mountain men and traders, to acquire a mixed -jargon of Indian dialects, which they mingle with Spanish, French or -English in their talk to an extent sometimes amusing. The Indians -readily adopt words from this lingo, and learn to Anglicize Indian -names in conversation with “Americans.” This, when done by the Mission -Indians, who perhaps have already made efforts to improve the Indian -name with Mission Spanish, tends to mislead the inquirer after _“pure” -Indian names_. - -The Mission Indians after deserting, introduced and applied Spanish -names to objects that already had Indian designations, and in this way, -new words are formed from corrupted Mission Spanish, that may lead to -wrong interpretations. I learned from Russio, the chief interpreter, -that sometimes more than one word was used to express the same object, -and often one word expressed different objects. As an illustration of -corrupted Spanish that passes for Indian, the words Oya (olla) and -Hoya, may be taken. Oya signifies a water pot, and Hoya, a pit hole. -From these words the Mission Indians have formed “Loya,” which is used -to designate camp grounds where holes in the rocks may be found near, -in which to pulverize acorns, grass seeds, &c., as well as to the -“Sentinel Rock,” from its fancied resemblance to a water pot, or long -water _basket_. Another source of difficulty, is that of representing -by written characters the echoing gutteral sounds of some Indian words. -While being aware of this, I can safely assert that Yosemite, is purer -and better Indian than is Mississippi, (“Me-ze-se-be,” the river that -runs every where; that is, “Endless river”) or many other names that -are regarded as good if not _pure Indian_.[9] - -Our interpreters were, or had been, Mission Indians, who rendered -the dialects into as good Spanish as they had at command, but rather -than fail in their office, for want of words, they would occasionally -insert one of their own coining. This was done, regardless of the -consequences, and when chided, declared it was for our benefit they had -done so. - -Attempts were made to supersede the name we had given the valley, by -substituting some fancied improvements. At first, I supposed these to -be simply changes rung on Yosemite, but soon observed the earnestness -of the sponsors in advocating the new names, in their magazine and -newspaper articles. They claimed to have acquired the _correct name_ -from their Indian guides, employed on their visits to the Yosemite. - -In 1855 Mr. J. M. Hutchings, of San Francisco, visited the Yosemite, -and published a description of it, and also published a lithograph of -the Yosemite Fall. Through his energetic efforts, the valley was more -fully advertised. He ambitiously gave it the name of Yo-Hamite, and -tenaciously adhered to it for some time; though Yosemite had already -crystalized. - -The Rev. Doctor Scott, of San Francisco, in a newspaper -article--disappointing to his admirers--descriptive of his travels and -sojourn there, endeavored to dispossess both Mr. Hutchings and myself -of our names, and _named_ the valley Yo-Amite: probably as a _peace_ -offering to us both. - -I did not at first consider it good policy to respond to these -articles. I had no desire to engage in a newspaper controversy with -such influences against me; but after solicitations from Mr. Ayers, and -other friends, I gave the facts upon which were based editorials in -the “California Chronicle,” “Sacramento Union,” the Mariposa and other -papers. - -By invitation of Mr. Hutchings, I had a personal interview with him in -San Francisco, relative to this matter, and at his request furnished -some of the incidents connected with our expedition against the -Indians, as hereinbefore narrated. These he published in his magazine, -and afterwards in his “Scenes of Wonder and Curiosity in California.” - -This statement of facts was signed by myself, and certified to by -two members of the State legislature--James M. Roan and George H. -Crenshaw--as follows: “We, the undersigned, having been members of -the same company, and through most of the scenes depicted by Doctor -Bunnell, have no hesitation in saying that the article above is -correct.” - -Mr. Hutchings says: “We cheerfully give place to the above -communication, that the public may learn how and by whom this -remarkable valley was first visited and named; and, although we have -differed with the writer and others concerning the name given, as -explained in several articles that have appeared at different times in -the several newspapers of the day, in which Yo-Hamite was preferred; -yet as Mr. Bunnell was among the first to visit the valley, we most -willingly accord to him the right of giving it whatsoever name he -pleases.” - -Mr. Hutchings then goes on to explain how he obtained the name -Yo-Hamite from his Indian guide Kos-sum; that its correctness was -affirmed by John Hunt, previous to the publication of the lithograph -of the great falls, etc., and during this explanation, says: “Up to -this time we have never heard or known any other name than Yosemite;” -and farther on in a manly way says: “Had we before known that Doctor -Bunnell and his party were the first whites who ever entered the valley -(although we have the honor of being _the first in later years to -visit it and call public attention to it_), we should long ago have -submitted to the name Doctor Bunnell had given it, as the discoverer of -the valley.” - -After my interview with Mr. Hutchings--for I had never heard the -word Yo-Hamite until it was published by him--I asked John Hunt, the -Indian trader referred to, where he had got the word furnished to Mr. -Hutchings. John, with some embarrassment, said, that “Yo-Hem-i-te was -the way his Indians pronounced the name.” I asked what name? “Why, -Yosemite,” said John. But, I replied, you know that the Indian name -for the valley is Ah-wah-ne! and the name given by us was the name -of Ten-ie-ya’s band? “Of course, (said John,) but my Indians now -apply the word Yo-Hemite to the valley or the territory adjacent, -though their name for a bear is Osoomity.” John Hunt’s squaw was -called, and asked by him the meaning of the word, but confessed her -ignorance. Mr. Cunningham was also consulted, but could give us no -certain information; but surmised that the word had been derived from -“Le-Hamite ‘The Arrowwood.’” Another said possibly from “Hem-nock,” the -Kah-we-ah word for God. As to Yo-Amite, insisted on by Doctor Scott, I -made no effort to find an interpretation of it. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - Date of Discovery--First White Visitors--Captain Joe Walker’s - Statement--Ten-ie-ya’s Cunning--Indian Tradition--A lying Guide--The - Ancient Squaw--Destroying Indian Stores--Sweat-houses--The Mourner’s - Toilet--Sentiment and Reality--Return to Head-quarters. - - -The date of our discovery and entrance into the Yosemite was about -the 21st of March, 1851. We were afterward assured by Ten-ie-ya and -others of his band, that this was the first visit ever made to this -valley by white men. Ten-ie-ya said that a small party of white men -once crossed the mountains on the North side, but were so guided as not -to see it; Appleton’s and the People’s Encyclopedias to the contrary -notwithstanding.[10] - -It was to prevent the recurrence of such an event, that Ten-ie-ya had -consented to go to the commissioner’s camp and make peace, intending to -return to his mountain home as soon as the excitement from the recent -outbreak subsided. The entrance to the Valley had ever been carefully -guarded by the old chief, and the people of his band. As a part of its -traditionary history, it was stated: “That when Ten-ie-ya left the -tribe of his mother and went to live in Ah-wah-ne, he was accompanied -by a very old Ah-wah-ne-chee, who had been the great ‘medicine man’ of -his tribe.” - -It was through the influence of this old friend of his father that -Ten-ie-ya was induced to leave the Mono tribe, and with a few of -the descendants from the Ah-wah-nee-chees, who had been living with -the Monos and Pai-Utes, to establish himself in the valley of his -ancestors as their chief. He was joined by the descendants from the -Ah-wah-ne-chees, and by others who had fled from their own tribes to -avoid summary Indian justice. The old “medicine man” was the counselor -of the young chief. Not long before the death of this patriarch, as -if endowed with prophetic wisdom, he assured Ten-ie-ya that while he -retained possession of Ah-wah-ne his band would increase in numbers -and become powerful. That if he befriended those who sought his -protection, no other tribe would come to the valley to make war upon -him, or attempt to drive him from it, and if he obeyed his counsels he -would put a spell upon it that would hold it sacred for him and his -people alone; none other would ever dare to make it their home. He then -cautioned the young chief against the horsemen of the lowlands (the -Spanish residents), and declared that, should they enter Ah-wah-ne, his -tribe would soon be scattered and destroyed, or his people be taken -captive, and he himself be the last chief in Ah-wah-ne. - -For this reason, Ten-ie-ya declared, had he so rigidly guarded his -valley home, and all who sought his protection. No one ventured to -enter it, except by his permission; all feared the “witches” there, and -his displeasure. He had “made war upon the white gold diggers to drive -them from the mountains, and prevent their entrance into Ah-wah-ne.” - -The Yo-sem-i-tes had been the most warlike of the mountain tribes in -this part of California; and the Ah-wah-ne-chee and Mono members of -it, were of finer build and lighter color than those commonly called -“California Digger Indians.” Even the “Diggers” of the band, from -association and the better food and air afforded in the mountains, had -become superior to their inheritance, and as a tribe, the Yosemites -were feared by other Indians. - -The superstitious fear of annihilation had, however, so depressed the -warlike ardor of Ten-ie-ya, who had now become an old man, that he -had decided to make efforts to conciliate the Americans, rather than -further resist their occupancy of the mountains; as thereby, he hoped -to save his valley from intrusion. In spite of Ten-ie-ya’s cunning, -the prophecies of the “old medicine” man have been mostly fulfilled. -White horsemen have entered Ah-wah-ne; the tribe has been scattered and -destroyed. Ten-ie-ya was the last chief of his people. He was killed by -the chief of the Monos, not because of the prophecy; nor yet because of -our entrance into his territory, but in retribution for a crime against -the Mono’s hospitality. But I must not, Indian like, tell the latter -part of my story first. - -After an early breakfast on the morning following our entrance into the -Yosemite, we equipped ourselves for duty; and as the word was passed to -“fall in,” we mounted and filed down the trail to the lower ford, ready -to commence our explorations. - -The water in the Merced had fallen some during the night, but the -stream was still in appearance a raging torrent. As we were about to -cross, our guide with earnest gesticulations asserted that the water -was too deep to cross, that if we attempted it, we would be swept down -into the cañon. That later, we could cross without difficulty. These -assertions angered the Major, and he told the guide that he lied; -for he knew that later in the day the snow would melt. Turning to -Captain Boling he said: “I am now positive that the Indians are in the -vicinity, and for that reason the guide would deceive us.” Telling the -young Indian to remain near his person, he gave the order to cross at -once. - -The ford was found to be rocky; but we passed over it without serious -difficulty, although several repeated their morning ablutions while -stumbling over the boulders. - -The open ground on the north side was found free from snow. The trail -led toward “El Capitan,” which had from the first, been the particular -object of my admiration. - -At this time no distinctive names were known by which to designate the -cliffs, waterfalls, or any of the especial objects of interest, and -the imaginations of some ran wild in search of _appropriate_ ones. -None had any but a limited idea of the height of this cliff, and but -few appeared conscious of the vastness of the granite wall before us; -although an occasional ejaculation betrayed the feelings which the -imperfect comprehension of the grand and wonderful excited. A few of us -remarked upon the great length of time required to pass it, and by so -doing, probably arrived at more or less correct conclusions regarding -its size. - -Soon after we crossed the ford, smoke was seen to issue from a cluster -of manzanita shrubs that commanded a view of the trail. On examination, -the smoking brands indicated that it had been a picket fire, and we -now felt assured that our presence was known and our movements watched -by the vigilant Indians we were hoping to find. Moving rapidly on, we -discovered near the base of El Capitan, quite a large collection of -Indian huts, situated near Pigeon creek. On making a hasty examination -of the village and vicinity, no Indians could be found, but from -the generally undisturbed condition of things usually found in an -Indian camp, it was evident that the occupants had but recently left; -appearances indicated that some of the wigwams or huts had been -occupied during the night. Not far from the camp, upon posts, rocks, -and in trees, was a large _caché_ of acorns and other provisions. - -[Illustration: - -HOUSEWORTH & CO. PHOTO. - -HALF DOME. - -(4,737 feet in height.)] - -As the trail showed that it had been used by Indians going up, but a -short halt was made. As we moved on, a smoke was again seen in the -distance, and some of the more eager ones dashed ahead of the column, -but as we reached the ford to which we were led by the main trail -leading to the right, our dashing cavaliers rejoined us and again took -their places. These men reported that “fallen rocks” had prevented -their passage up on the north side, and that our only course was to -cross at the ford and follow the trail, as the low lands appeared too -wet for rapid riding. Recrossing the Merced to the south-side, we found -trails leading both up and down the river. A detachment was sent down -to reconnoitre the open land below, while the main column pursued its -course. The smoke we had seen was soon discovered to be rising from -another encampment nearly south of the “Royal Arches;” and at the forks -of the Ten-ie-ya branch of the Merced, near the south-west base of the -“Half Dome,” still another group of huts was brought to view. - -[Illustration: NORTH DOME AND ROYAL ARCHES. - -(3,568 feet in height.)] - -These discoveries necessitated the recrossing of the river, which -had now again become quite swollen; but by this time our horses and -ourselves had become used to the icy waters, and when at times our -animals lost their footing at the fords, they were not at all alarmed, -but vigorously swam to the shore. - -Abundant evidences were again found to indicate that the huts here -had but just been deserted; that they had been occupied that morning. -Although a rigid search was made, no Indians were found. Scouting -parties in charge of Lieutenants Gilbert and Chandler, were sent out -to examine each branch of the valley, but this was soon found to be an -impossible task to accomplish in one day. While exploring among the -rocks that had fallen from the “Royal Arches” at the southwesterly -base of the North Dome, my attention was attracted to a huge rock -stilted upon some smaller ones. Cautiously glancing underneath, I was -for a moment startled by a living object. Involuntarily my rifle was -brought to bear on it, when I discovered the object to be a female; an -extremely old squaw, but with a countenance that could only be likened -to a vivified Egyptian mummy. This creature exhibited no expression of -alarm, and was apparently indifferent to hope or fear, love or hate. I -hailed one of my comrades on his way to camp, to report to Major Savage -that I had discovered a peculiar living ethnological curiosity, and to -bring something for it to eat. She was seated on the ground, hovering -over the remnants of an almost exhausted fire. I replenished her supply -of fuel, and waited for the Major. She neither spoke or exhibited any -curiosity as to my presence. - -[Illustration: CATHEDRAL ROCKS - -(2,660 feet in height.)] - -Major Savage soon came, but could elicit nothing of importance from -her. When asked where her companions were, she understood the dialect -used, for she very curtly replied “You can hunt for them if you want -to see them”! When asked why she was left alone, she replied “I am -too old to climb the rocks”! The Major--forgetting the gallantry -due her sex--inquired “How old are you?” With an ineffably scornful -grunt, and a coquettish leer at the Major, she maintained an indignant -silence. This attempt at a smile, left the Major in doubt as to her -age. Subsequently, when Ten-ie-ya was interrogated as to the age -of this old squaw, he replied that “No one knows her age. That when -he was a boy, it was a favorite _tradition_ of the _old_ members of -his band, that when she was a child, the peaks of the Sierras were -but little hills.” This free interpretation was given by the Major, -while seated around the camp fire at night. If not _reliable_, it was -excessively amusing to the “Boys,” and added to the Major’s popularity. -On a subsequent visit to the Valley, an attempt was made to send the -old creature to the commissioner’s camp; she was placed on a mule and -started. As she could not bear the fatigue, she was left with another -squaw. We learned that she soon after departed “to _the happy land in -the West_.” - -The detachment sent down the trail reported the discovery of a small -rancheria, a short distance above the “Cathedral Rocks,” but the huts -were unoccupied. They also reported the continuance of the trail down -the left bank. The other detachments found huts in groups, but no -Indians. At all of these localities the stores of food were abundant. - -Their _cachés_ were principally of acorns, although many contained -bay (California laurel), Piñon pine (Digger pine), and chinquepin -nuts, grass seeds, wild rye or oats (scorched), dried worms, scorched -grasshoppers, and what proved to be the dried larvæ of insects, which -I was afterwards told were gathered from the waters of the lakes in -and east of the Sierra Nevada. It was by this time quite clear that -a large number of Ten-ie-ya’s band was hidden in the cliffs or among -the rocky gorges or cañons, not accessible to us from the knowledge -we then had of their trails and passes. We had not the time, nor had -we supplied ourselves sufficiently to hunt them out. It was therefore -decided that the best policy was to destroy their huts and stores, with -a view of starving them out, and of thus compelling then to come in and -join with Ten-ie-ya and the people with him on the reservation. At this -conclusion the destruction of their property was ordered, and at once -commenced. While this work was in progress, I indulged my curiosity -in examining the lodges in which had been left their home property, -domestic, useful and ornamental. As compared with eastern tribes, their -supplies of furniture of all kinds, excepting baskets, were meagre -enough. - -These baskets were quite numerous, and were of various patterns and -for different uses. The large ones were made either of bark, roots of -the Tamarach or Cedar, Willow or Tule. Those made for gathering and -transporting food supplies, were of large size and round form, with -a sharp apex, into which, when inverted and placed upon the back, -everything centres. This form of basket enables the carriers to keep -their balance while passing over seemingly impassable rocks, and along -the verge of dangerous precipices. Other baskets found served as water -buckets. Others again of various sizes were used as cups and soup -bowls; and still another kind, made of a tough, wiry grass, closely -woven and cemented, was used for kettles for boiling food. The boiling -was effected by hot stones being continually plunged into the liquid -mass, until the desired result was obtained. - -The water baskets were also made of “wire-grass;” being porous, -evaporation is facilitated, and like the porous earthen water-jars of -Mexico, and other hot countries, the water put into them is kept cool -by evaporation. There were also found at some of the encampments, robes -or blankets made from rabbit and squirrel skins, and from skins of -water-fowl. There were also ornaments and musical instruments of a rude -character. The instruments were drums and flageolets. The ornaments -were of bone, bears’ claws, birds’ bills and feathers. The thread used -by these Indians, I found was spun or twisted from the inner bark of -a species of the asclepias or milk-weed, by ingeniously suspending a -stone to the fibre, and whirling it with great rapidity. Sinews are -chiefly used for sewing skins, for covering their bows and feathering -their arrows. Their fish spears were but a single tine of bone, with a -cord so attached near the centre, that when the spear, loosely placed -in a socket in the pole, was pulled out by the struggles of the fish, -the tine and cord would hold it as securely as though held by a barbed -hook. - -There were many things found that only an Indian could possibly use, -and which it would be useless for me to attempt to describe; such, -for instance, as stag-horn hammers, deer prong punches (for making -arrow-heads), obsidian, pumice-stone and salt brought from the eastern -slope of the Sierras and from the desert lakes. In the hurry of their -departure they had left everything. The numerous bones of animals -scattered about the camps, indicated their love of horse-flesh as a -diet. - -Among these relics could be distinguished the bones of horses and -mules, as well as other animals, eaten by these savages. Deers and -bears were frequently driven into the valley during their seasons -of migration, and were killed by expert hunters perched upon rocks -and in trees that commanded their runways or trails; but their chief -dependence for meat was upon horseflesh. - -Among the relics of stolen property were many things recognized by -our “boys,” while applying the torch and giving all to the flames. -A comrade discovered a bridle and part of a riata or rope which was -stolen from him with a mule _while waiting for the commissioners to -inquire into the cause of the war with the Indians_! No animals of any -kind were kept by the Yosemites for any length of time except dogs, and -they are quite often sacrificed to gratify their pride and appetite, in -a dog feast. Their highest estimate of animals is only as an article -of food. Those stolen from the settlers were not kept for their -usefulness, except as additional camp supplies. The acorns found were -alone estimated at from four to six hundred bushels. - -During our explorations we were on every side astonished at the -colossal representations of cliffs, rocky cañons and water-falls which -constantly challenged our attention and admiration. - -Occasionally some fragment of a garment was found, or other sign of -Indians, but no trail could be discovered by _our_ eyes. Tired and -almost exhausted in the fruitless search for Indians, the footmen -returned to the place at which they had left their horses in the -cañons, and in very thankfulness caressed them with delight. - -In subsequent visits, this region was thoroughly explored and names -given to prominent objects and localities. - -While searching for hidden stores, I took the opportunity to examine -some of the numerous sweat-houses noticed on the bank of the Merced, -below a large camp near the mouth of the Ten-ie-ya branch. It may -not be out of place to here give a few words in description of these -conveniences of a permanent Indian encampment, and the uses for which -they are considered a necessity. - -The remains of these structures are sometimes mistaken for Tumuli. -They were constructed of poles, bark, grass and mud. The frame-work of -poles is first covered with bark, reeds or grass, and then the mud--as -tenacious as the soil will admit of--is spread thickly over it. The -structure is in the form of a dome, resembling a huge round mound. -After being dried by a slight fire, kindled inside, the mud is covered -with earth of a sufficient depth to shed the rain from without, and -prevent the escape of heat from within. A small opening for ingress -and egress is left; this comprises the extent of the house when -complete, and ready for use. These sweat-baths are used as a luxury, as -a curative for disease, and as a convenience for cleansing the skin, -when necessity demands it, although the Indian race is not noted for -cleanliness. - -As a luxury, no Russian or Turkish bath is more enjoyed by civilized -people, than are these baths by the Mountain Indians. I have seen a -half dozen or more enter one of these rudely constructed sweat-houses, -through the small aperture left for the purpose. Hot stones are taken -in, the aperture is closed until suffocation would seem impending, -when they would crawl out reeking with perspiration, and with a shout, -spring like acrobats into the cold waters of the stream. As a remedial -agent for disease, the same course is pursued, though varied at times -by the burning and inhalation of resinous boughs and herbs. - -In the process for cleansing the skin from impurities, hot air alone is -generally used. If an Indian had passed the usual period for mourning -for a relative, and the adhesive pitch too tenaciously clung to his no -longer sorrowful countenance, he would enter, and re-enter the heated -house, until the cleansing had become complete. - -The mourning pitch is composed of the charred bones and ashes of their -dead relative or friend. These remains of the funeral pyre, with the -charcoal, are pulverized and mixed with the resin of the pine. This -hideous mixture is usually retained upon the face of the mourner until -it wears off. If it has been well compounded, it may last nearly a -year; although the young--either from a super-abundance of vitality, -excessive reparative powers of the skin, or from powers of will--seldom -mourn so long. When the bare surface exceeds that covered by the pitch, -it is not a scandalous disrespect in the young to remove it entirely; -but a mother will seldom remove pitch or garment until both are nearly -worn out. - -In their camps were found articles from the miners’ camps, and from the -unguarded “ranchman.” There was no lack of evidence that the Indians -who had deserted their villages or wigwams, were truly entitled to the -_soubriquet_ of “the Grizzlies,” “the lawless.” - -Although we repeatedly discovered fresh trails leading from the -different camps, all traces were soon lost among the rocks at the -base of the cliffs. The debris or talus not only afforded places for -temporary concealment, but provided facilities for escape without -betraying the direction. If by chance a trail was followed for a while, -it would at last be traced to some apparently inaccessible ledge, or to -the foot of some slippery depression in the walls, up which we did not -venture to climb. While scouting up the Ten-ie-ya cañon, above Mirror -Lake, I struck the fresh trail of quite a large number of Indians. -Leaving our horses, a few of us followed up the tracks until they were -lost in the ascent up the cliff. By careful search they were again -found and followed until finally they hopelessly disappeared. - -Tiring of our unsuccessful search, the hunt was abandoned, although we -were convinced that the Indians had in some way passed up the cliff. - -During this time, and while descending to the valley, I partly realized -the great height of the cliffs and high fall. I had observed the -height we were compelled to climb before the Talus had been overcome, -though from below this appeared insignificant, and after reaching the -summit of our ascent, the cliffs still towered above us. It was by -instituting these comparisons while ascending and descending, that I -was able to form a better judgment of altitude; for while entering the -valley,--although, as before stated, I had observed the towering height -of El Capitan,--my mind had been so preoccupied with the marvelous, -that comparison had scarcely performed its proper function. - -The level of the valley proper now appeared quite distant as we looked -down upon it, and objects much less than full size. As night was fast -approaching, and a storm threatened, we returned down the trail and -took our course for the rendezvous selected by Major Savage, in a grove -of oaks near the mouth of “Indian Cañon.” - -While on our way down, looking across to and up the south or Glacier -Cañon, I noticed its beautiful fall, and planned an _excursion_ for -the morrow. I almost forgot my fatigue, in admiration of the solemn -grandeur within my view; the lofty walls, the towering domes and -numerous water-falls; their misty spray blending with the clouds -settling down from the higher mountains. - -[Illustration: GLACIER FALL. - -(550 feet in height.)] - -The duties of the day had been severe on men and horses, for beside -fording the Merced several times, the numerous branches pouring over -cliffs and down ravines from the melting snow, rendered the overflow -of the bottom lands so constant that we were often compelled to splash -through the water-courses that later would be dry. These torrents -of cold water, commanded more especial attention, and excited more -_comment_ than did the grandeur of the cliffs and water-falls. We -were not a party of tourists, seeking recreation, nor philosophers -investigating the operations of nature. Our business there was to -find Indians who were endeavoring to escape from our _charitable_ -intentions toward them. But very few of the volunteers seemed to have -any appreciation of the wonderful proportions of the enclosing granite -rocks; their curiosity had been to see the stronghold of the enemy, and -the _general_ verdict was that it was gloomy enough. - -Tired and wet, the independent scouts sought the camp and reported -their failures. Gilbert and Chandler came in with their detachments -just at dark, from their tiresome explorations of the southern -branches. Only a small squad of their commands climbed above the -Vernal and Nevada falls; and seeing the clouds resting upon the -mountains above the Nevada Fall, they retraced their steps through -the showering mist of the Vernal, and joined their comrades, who had -already started down its rocky gorge. These men found no Indians, but -they were the first discoverers of the Vernal and Nevada Falls, and the -Little Yosemite. They reported what they had seen to their assembled -comrades at the evening camp-fires. Their names have now passed from my -memory--not having had an intimate personal acquaintance with them--for -according to my recollection they belonged to the company of Capt. Dill. - -While on our way down to camp we met Major Savage with a detachment -who had been burning a large _caché_ located in the fork, and another -small one below the mouth of the Ten-ie-ya branch. This had been held -in reserve for possible use, but the Major had now fired it, and the -flames were leaping high. Observing his movements for a few moments -we rode up and made report of our unsuccessful efforts. I briefly, -but with some enthusiasm, described my view from the cliff up the -North Cañon, the Mirror Lake view of the Half Dome, the Fall of the -South Cañon and the view of the distant South Dome. I volunteered a -suggestion that some new tactics would have to be devised before we -should be able to corral the “Grizzlies” or “smoke them out.” The Major -looked up from the charred mass of burning acorns, and as he glanced -down the smoky valley, said: “This affords us the best prospect -of any yet discovered; just look!” “Splendid!” I promptly replied, -“Yo-sem-i-te must be beautifully grand a few weeks later, when the -foliage and flowers are at their prime, and the rush of water has -somewhat subsided. Such cliffs and water-falls I never saw before, and -I doubt if they exist in any other place.” - -[Illustration: VERNAL FALL. - -(350 feet in height.)] - -I was surprised and somewhat irritated by the hearty laugh with which -my reply was greeted. The Major caught the expression of my eye and -shrugged his shoulders as he hastily said: “I suppose that is all -right, Doctor, about the water-falls, &c., for there are enough of them -here for one locality, as we have all discovered; but my remark was not -in reference to the scenery, but the _prospect_ of the Indians being -starved out, and of their coming in to sue for peace. We have all been -more or less wet since we rolled up our blankets this morning, and this -fire is very enjoyable, but the prospect that it offers to my mind of -_smoking out_ the Indians, is more agreeable to me than its warmth or -all the scenery in creation. I know, Doc., that there is a good deal of -iron in you, but there is also considerable sentiment, and I am not in -a very sentimental mood.” I replied that I did not think that any of us -felt very much like making love or writing poetry, but that Ten-ie-ya’s -remark to him about the “Great Spirit” providing so bountifully for -his people, had several times occurred to me since entering here, and -that no doubt to Ten-ie-ya, this was a veritable Indian paradise. -“Well,” said the Major, “as far as that is concerned, although I have -not carried a Bible with me since I became a mountain-man, I remember -well enough that Satan entered paradise and did all the mischief he -could, but I intend to be a bigger devil in this Indian paradise than -old Satan ever was; and when I leave, I don’t intend to _crawl_ out, -either. Now Doc. we will go to camp but let me say while upon the -subject, that we are in no condition to judge fairly of this valley. -The annoyances and disappointments of a fruitless search, together with -the certainty of a snow-storm approaching, makes all this beautiful -scenery appear to me gloomy enough. In a word, it is what we supposed -it to be before seeing it, a h---- of a place. The valley, no doubt, -will always be a wonder for its grouping of cliffs and water-falls, but -hemmed in by walls of rock, your vision turned in, as it were, upon -yourself--a residence here would be anything but desirable for me. Any -one of the Rocky Mountain parks would be preferable, while the ease -with which buffalo, black-tail and big-horn could be provided in the -“Rockies” would, in comparison, make your Indian paradise anything but -desirable, even for these Indians.” - -[Illustration: NEVADA FALL. - -(600 feet in height.)] - -The more practical tone and views of the Major dampened the ardor of my -fancy in investing the valley with all desirable qualities, but as we -compared with each other the experiences of the day, it was very clear -that the half had not yet been seen or told, and that repeated views -would be required before any one person could say that he had seen the -Yosemite. It will probably be as well for me to say here that though -Major Savage commanded the first expedition to the valley, he never -revisited it, and died without ever having seen the Vernal and Nevada -Falls, or any of the views belonging to the region of the Yosemite, -except those seen from the valley and from the old Indian trail on our -first entrance. - -We found our camp had been plentifully supplied with dry wood by the -provident guard, urged, no doubt, by the threatening appearances of -another snow-storm. Some rude shelters of poles and brush were thrown -up around the fires, on which were placed the drying blankets, the -whole serving as an improvement on our bivouac accomodations. The night -was colder than the previous one, for the wind was coming down the -cañons of the snowy Sierras. The fires were lavishly piled with the dry -oak wood, which sent out a glowing warmth. The fatigue and exposure of -the day were forgotten in the hilarity with which supper was devoured -by the hungry scouts while steaming in their wet garments. After supper -Major Savage announced that “from the very extensive draft on the -commissary stores just made, it was necessary to return to the ‘South -Fork.’” He said that it would be advisable for us to return, as we were -not in a condition to endure delay if the threatened storm should prove -to be a severe one; and ordered both Captains Boling and Dill to have -their companies ready for the march at daylight the next morning. - -While enjoying the warmth of the fire preparatory to a night’s rest, -the incidents of our observations during the day were interchanged. -The probable heights of the cliffs was discussed. One _official_ -estimated “El Capitan” at 400 feet!! Capt. Boling at 800 feet; Major -Savage was in no mood to venture an opinion. My estimate was a sheer -perpendicularity of at least 1500 feet. Mr. C. H. Spencer, son of Prof. -Thomas Spencer, of Geneva, N. Y.,--who had traveled quite extensively -in Europe,--and a French gentleman, Monsieur Bouglinval, a civil -engineer, who had joined us for the sake of adventure, gave me their -opinions that my estimate was none too high; that it was probable that -I was far below a correct measurement, for when there was so much -sameness of height the judgment could not very well be assisted by -comparison, and hence instrumental measurements alone could be relied -on. Time has demonstrated the correctness of their opinions. These -gentlemen were men of education and practical experience in observing -the heights of objects of which measurement had been made, and quietly -reminded their auditors that it was difficult to measure such massive -objects with the eye alone. That some author had said: “But few persons -have a correct judgment of height that rises above sixty feet.” - -I became somewhat earnest and enthusiastic on the subject of the -valley, and expressed myself in such a positive manner that the -“_enfant terrible_” of the company derisively asked if I was given to -exaggeration before I became an “Indian fighter.” From my ardor in -description, and admiration of the scenery, I found myself nicknamed -“Yosemity” by some of the battalion. It was customary among the -mountain men and miners to prefix distinctive names. From this hint -I became less _expressive_, when conversing on matters relating to -the valley. My self-respect caused me to talk less among my comrades -generally, but with intimate friends the subject was always an open -one, and my estimates of heights were never reduced. - -Major Savage took no part in this camp discussion, but on our -expressing a design to revisit the valley at some future time, he -assured us that there was a probability of our being fully gratified, -for if the renegades did not voluntarily come in, another visit would -soon have to be made by the battalion, when we could have opportunity -to measure the rocks if we then desired. That we should first escort -our “captives” to the commissioners’ camp on the Fresno; that by the -time we returned to the valley the trails would be clear of snow, and -we would be able to explore to our satisfaction. Casting a quizzing -glance at me, he said: “The rocks will probably keep, but you will not -find all of these immense _water-powers_.” - -Notwithstanding a little warmth of discussion, we cheerfully wrapped -ourselves in our blankets and slept, until awakened by the guard; for -there had been no disturbance during the night. The snow had fallen -only to about the depth of an inch in the valley, but the storm still -continued. - -By early dawn “all ready” was announced, and we started back without -having seen any of the Indian race except our useless guide and the -old squaw. Major Savage rode at the head of the column, retracing our -trail, rather than attempt to follow down the south side. The water was -relatively low in the early morning, and the fords were passed without -difficulty. While passing El Capitan I felt like saluting, as I would -some dignified acquaintance. - -The _cachés_ below were yet smouldering, but the lodges had disappeared. - -At our entrance we had closely followed the Indian trail over rocks -that could not be re-ascended with animals. To return, we were -compelled to remove a few obstructions of poles, brush and loose rocks, -placed by the Indians to prevent the escape of the animals stolen and -driven down. Entire herds had been sometimes taken from the ranches or -their ranges. - -After leaving the valley, but little difficulty was encountered. The -snow had drifted into the hollows, but had not to any extent obscured -the trail, which we now found quite hard. We reached the camp earlier -in the day than we had reason to expect. During these three days of -absence from headquarters, we had discovered, named and partially -explored one of the most remarkable of the geographical wonders of the -world. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - Out of Provisions--A hurried Move--Mills where Indians take Their - Grists, and Pots in which they Boil their Food--Advance Movement of - Captain Dill--A Hungry Squad--Enjoyment--Neglect of Duty--Escape - of Indians--Following their Trail--A Sorrowful Captain--A Mystery - made Clear--Duplicity of the Chow-chillas--Vow-chester’s Good-will - Offering--Return of the Fugitives--Major Savage as Agent and - Interpreter. - - -On our arrival at the rendezvous on the South Fork the officer in -charge reported; “We are about out of grub.” This was a satisfactory -cause for a hurried movement; for a short allowance had more terrors -for men with our appetites than severe duties; and most of us had -already learned that, even with prejudice laid aside, our stomachs -would refuse the hospitalities of the Indians, if it were possible -for them to share with us from their own scanty stores. The Major’s -experience prompted him at once to give the order to break camp and -move on for the camp on the Fresno. - -Our mounted force chafed at the slowness of our march; for the Indians -could not be hurried. Although their cookery was of the most primitive -character, we were very much delayed by the time consumed in preparing -their food. - -While traveling we were compelled to accommodate our movements to the -capacities or inclinations of the women and children. Captain Dill, -therefore, with his company was sent on ahead from the crossing of the -South Fork, they leaving with us what food they could spare. When Dill -reached the waters of the Fresno about one hundred “_captives_” joined -him. These Indians voluntarily surrendered to Captain Dill’s company, -which at once hurried them on, and they reached the commissioners at -the Fresno. - -Captain Boling’s company and Major Savage remained with the “Grand -Caravan,” keeping out scouts and hunters to secure such game as might -be found to supply ourselves with food. We had no anxiety for the -safety or security of our “captives;” our own subsistence was the -important consideration; for the first night out from Bishop’s camp -left us but scanty stores for breakfast. Our halting places were -selected from the old Indian camping grounds, which were supplied -with hoyas (holes or mortars). These permanent mortars were in the -bed-rock, or in large detached rocks that had fallen from the cliffs or -mountains. These “hoyas” had been formed and used by past generations. -They were frequent on our route, many of them had long been abandoned; -as there was no indications of recent uses having been made of them. -From their numbers it was believed that the Indians had once been much -more numerous than at that date. - -By means of the stone pestles with which they were provided, the squaws -used these primitive mills to reduce their acorns and grass seeds to -flour or meal. While the grists were being ground, others built the -fires on which stones were heated. - -When red hot, these stones were plunged into baskets nearly filled -with water; this is continued until the water boils. The stones are -then removed and the acorn meal, or a cold mixture of it, is stirred -in until thin gruel is made; the hot stones are again plunged into -the liquid mass and again removed. When sufficiently cooked, this -“Atola” or porridge, was poured into plates or moulds of sand, prepared -for that purpose. During the process of cooling, the excess of -water leaches off through the sand, leaving the woody fibre tannin -and unappropriated coarse meal in distinctive strata; the edible -portion being so defined as to be easily separated from the refuse -and sand. This preparation was highly prized by them, and contrary to -preconceived ideas and information, all of the Indians I asked assured -me that the _bitter_ acorns were the best when cooked. This compound -of acorn meal resembles corn starch blanc mange in color, but is more -dense in consistency. Although it was free from grit, and comparatively -clean, none of us were able to eat it, and we were quite hungry. From -this, I was led to conclude that to relish this Indian staple, the -taste must be acquired while very young. - -Old Ten-ie-ya’s four wives, and other squaws, were disposed to be -quite hospitable when they learned that our supply of provisions was -exhausted. None of the command, however, ventured to sample their -acorn-jellies, grass-seed mush, roasted grasshoppers, and their other -delicacies; nothing was accepted but the Piñon pine nuts, which were -generally devoured with a relish and a regret for the scarcity. - -Certain species of worms, the larvæ of ants and some other insects, -common mushrooms and truffles, or wood-mushrooms, are prized by the -Indian epicure, as are eels, shrimps, oysters, frogs, turtles, snails, -etc., by his white civilized brother. Are we really but creatures of -education? - -The _baskets_ used by the Indians for boiling their food and other -purposes, as has been before stated, are made of a tough mountain -bunch-grass, nearly as hard and as strong as wire, and almost as -durable. So closely woven are they, that but little if any water can -escape from them. They are made wholly impervious with a resinous -compound resembling the vulcanized rubber used by dentists. This -composition does not appear to be in the least affected by hot water. -The same substance, in appearance at least, is used by Mountain Indians -in attaching sinews to bows, and feathers and barbs to arrows. - -I endeavored to ascertain what the composition was, but could only -learn that the resin was procured from small trees or shrubs, and -that some substance (probably mineral) was mixed with it, the latter -to resist the action of heat and moisture. I made a shrewd guess that -pulverized lava and sulphur (abundant east of the High Sierras) was -used, but for some cause I was left in ignorance. The Indians, like all -ignorant persons, ascribe remarkable virtues to very simple acts and to -inert remedies. Upon one occasion a doctor was extolling the virtues -of a certain root, ascribing to it almost miraculous powers; I tried -in vain to induce him to tell me the name of the root. He stated that -the secret was an heir-loom, and if told, the curative power of the -plant would disappear; but he kindly gave me some as a preventive of -some imaginary ill, when lo! I discovered the famous remedy to be the -cowslip. - -After a delayed and hungry march of several days, we halted near -sundown within a few miles of the Commissioner’s headquarters, and -went into camp for the night. The Indians came straggling in at will -from their hunts on the way, their trophies of skill with their bows -being the big California squirrels, rabbits or hares and quail. Our -more expert white hunters had occasionally brought in venison for our -use. We had ceased to keep a very effective guard over our “captives;” -none seemed necessary, as all appeared contented and satisfied, almost -joyous, as we neared their destination on the Fresno. - -The truth is, we regarded hostilities, so far as these Indians were -concerned, as ended. We had voted the peace policy a veritable success. -We had discussed the matter in camp, and contrasted the lack of spirit -exhibited by these people with what we knew of the warlike character -of the Indians of Texas and of the Northwestern plains. In these -comparisons, respect for our captives was lost in contempt. “The noble -red man” was not here represented. The only ones of the Pacific Slope, -excepting the Navahoes, Pimas and Maricopahs, that bear any comparison -with the Eastern tribes for intelligence and bravery, are the You-mahs -of the Colorado river, the Modocs, and some of the Rogue and Columbia -river tribes, but none of these really equal the Sioux and some other -Eastern tribes. - -Hardly any attention had been paid to the captives during the preceding -night, except from the guard about our own camp; from a supposition -that our services could well be spared. Application was therefore -made by a few of us, for permission to accompany the Major, who had -determined to go on to the Fresno head-quarters. When consent was -given, the wish was so generally expressed, that Captain Boling with -nine men to act as camp guard, volunteered to remain, if Major Savage -would allow the hungry “boys” to ride with him. The Major finally -assented to the proposition, saying: “I do not suppose the Indians -can be driven off, or be induced to leave until they have had the -feast I promised them; besides, they will want to see some of the -commissioner’s finery. I have been delighting their imaginations with -descriptions of the presents in store for them.” - -When the order was passed for the hungry squad to fall in, we mounted -with grateful feelings towards Captain Boling, and the “boys” declared -that the Major was a trump, for his consideration of our need. With the -prospect of a good “square” meal, and the hope of a genial “smile” from -our popular commissary, the time soon passed, and the distance seemed -shortened, for we entered the Fresno camp before our anticipations were -cloyed. Head-quarters was well supplied with all needful comforts, -and was not totally deficient in luxuries. Our Quarter-Master and -Commissary was active in his duties, and as some good women say of -their husbands, “He was a good provider.” We had no reason to complain -of our reception; our urgent requirements were cheerfully met. The -fullness of our entertainment did not prevent a good night’s rest, -nor interfere with the comfortable breakfast which we enjoyed. While -taking coffee, the self denial of Captain Boling and his volunteer -guard was not forgotten. Arrangements were made to furnish the best -edible and potable stores, that could be secured from our conscientious -and prudent commissary. We were determined to give them a glorious -reception; but--the Captain did not bring in his captives! Major Savage -sent out a small detachment to ascertain the cause of the delay. -This party filled their haversacks with comforts for the “Indian -guard.” After some hours of delay, the Major became anxious to hear -from Captain Boling, and began to be suspicious that something more -serious than the loss of his animals, was the cause of not sending in a -messenger, and he ordered out another detachment large enough to meet -any supposed emergency. Not far from camp, they met the Captain and his -nine men (the “_Indian guard_”) and _one_ Indian, with the relief party -first sent out. Our jovial Captain rode into “Head-quarters” looking -more crest fallen than he had ever been seen before. When asked by the -Major where he had left the Indians, he blushed like a coy maiden and -said: “They have all gone to the mountains, but the one I have with me.” - -After Captain Boling had made his report to the Major, and made all -explanations to the commissioners, and when he had refreshed himself -with an extra ration or two of the potable liquid, that by special -stipulation had been reserved for the “Indian Guard,” something of -his old humor returned to him, and he gave us the details of his -annoyances by the breach of trust on the part of “our prisoners.” - -The Captain said: “Soon after you left us last night, one of my men, -who was out hunting when we camped, came in with a deer he had killed -just at the dusk of the evening. From this we made a hearty supper, -and allowed the youth who had helped to bring in the deer to share -in the meat. The Indian cooked the part given to him at our fire, -and ate with the avidity of a famished wolf. This excited comment, -and anecdotes followed of the enormous appetites displayed by some -of them. The question was then raised, ‘how much can this Indian eat -at one meal?’ I suggested that a fair trial could not be had with -only one deer. Our hunter said he would give him a preliminary trial, -and when deer were plenty we could then test his full capacity, if -he should prove a safe one to bet on. He then cut such pieces as we -thought would suffice for our breakfast, and, with my approval, gave -the remainder to his boy, who was anxiously watching his movements. I -consented to this arrangement, not as a test of his capacity, for I -had often seen a hungry Indian eat, but as a reward for his services -in bringing in the deer on his shoulders. He readily re-commenced his -supper, and continued to feast until every bone was cracked and picked. -When the last morsel of the venison had disappeared he commenced a -doleful sing-song, ‘Way-ah-we-ha-ha, Wah-ah-we-ha-ha’ to some unknown -deity, or, if I was to judge from my ear of the music, it must have -been his prayer to the devil, for I have heard that it is a part of -their worship. His song was soon echoed from the camp where all seemed -contentment. After _consoling_ himself in this manner for some time he -fell asleep at our fire. - -“The performance being over, I told my men to take their sleep and -I would watch, as I was not sleepy; if I wanted them I would call -them. I then thought, as Major Savage had declared, the Indians could -scarcely be driven off, until they had had their feast and the presents -they expected to have given them. I sat by the fire for a long time -cogitating on past events and future prospects, when thinking it -useless to require the men to stand guard, I told them to sleep. Moving -about and seeing nothing but the usual appearance, I decided it to be -unneccessary to exercise any further vigilance, and told one of the -men, who was partially aroused by my movements, and who offered to get -up and stand guard, that he had better lie still and sleep. Toward -morning I took another round, and finding the Indian camp wrapped in -apparently profound slumber, I concluded to take a little sleep myself, -until daylight. This now seems unaccountable to me, for I am extremely -cautious in my habits. Such a breach of military discipline would have -subjected one of my men to a court-martial. I confess myself guilty of -neglect of duty; I should have taken nothing for granted. - -“No one can imagine my surprise and mortification when I was called and -told that the Indian camp was entirely deserted, and that none were -to be seen except the one asleep by our camp fire. My indifference to -placing a guard over the Indian camp will probably always be a mystery -to me, but it most likely saved our lives, for if we had attempted to -restrain them, and you know us well enough to believe we would not have -let them off without a fight; they would probably have pretty well used -us up. As it was, we did not give them up without an effort. We saddled -our horses and started in chase, thinking that as while with us, their -women and children would retard their progress, and that we would soon -overtake them. We took the young brave with us, who had slept by our -fire. He knew nothing of the departure of his people, and was very much -alarmed, as he expected we would at once kill him. I tried to make him -useful in following their trail; he by signs, gave me to understand -he did not know where they had gone, and seemed unwilling to take the -trail when I pointed it out to him. He evidently meant to escape the -first opportunity. I kept him near me and treated him kindly, but gave -him to understand I should shoot him if he tried to leave me. - -“We pursued until the trail showed that they had scattered in every -direction in the brushy ravines and on the rocky side of a mountain -covered with undergrowth, where we could not follow them with our -animals. Chagrined and disgusted with myself for my negligence, and my -inability to recover any part of my charge, and considering farther -pursuit useless, we turned about and took the trail to head-quarters -with our one captive.” - -Major Savage took the youngster under his charge, and flattered him by -his conversations and kindly treatment. The Commissioners lionized him -somewhat; he was gaily clothed and ornamented, loaded with presents -for his own family relations, and was given his liberty and permitted -to leave camp at his leisure, and thus departed the last of the “grand -caravan” of some three hundred and fifty “captives,” men, women and -children, which we had collected and escorted from the mountains. - -The sight of the one hundred brought to them by Captain Dill, and his -report that we were coming with about three hundred and fifty more, -aroused sanguine hopes in the commission that the war was over, and -that their plans had been successful. “Now that the _prisoners_ have -fled,” we asked, “What will be done?” - -To a military man, this lack of discipline and precaution--through -which the Indians escaped--will seem unpardonable; and an officer -who, like our Captain, should leave his camp unguarded, under any -circumstances, would be deemed disgracefully incompetent. In -palliation of these facts, it may not occur to the rigid disciplinarian -that Captain John Boling and the men under him--or the most of them, -had not had the advantages of army drill and discipline. The courage of -these mountain-men in times of danger was undoubted; their caution was -more apt to be displayed in times of danger to others, than when they -themselves were imperiled. - -In this case Captain Boling was not apprehensive of danger to those -under his charge. His excessive good nature and good will toward his -men prompted him to allow, even to command them, to take the sleep and -rest that an irregular diet, and the labor of hunting while on the -march, had seemed to require. No one had a keener sense of his error -than himself. The whole command sympathized with him--notwithstanding -the ludicrous aspect of the affair--their finer feelings were aroused -by his extreme regrets. They determined that if opportunities offered, -he should have their united aid to wipe out this stigma. Major Savage -was deceived by the child-like simplicity with which the Indians had -been talking to him of the feast expected, and of the presents they -would soon receive from the commissioners. He did not suppose it -possible that they would make an attempt to escape, or such a number -would not have been left with so small a guard. We had men with us -who knew what discipline was, who had been trained to obey orders -without hesitation. Men who had fought under Col. Jack Hays, Majors Ben -McCullough and Mike Chevallia, both in Indian and Mexican warfare, and -they considered themselves well posted. Even these men were mistaken in -their opinions. The sudden disappearance of the Indians, was as much a -surprise to them as to our officers. - -With a view to solving this mystery Vow-ches-ter was sent for from his -camp near by, where all the treaty tribes were congregated, and when -questioned the Chief said that during the night Chow-chilla runners -had been in the camp, and to him in person with their mouths filled -with lies; they had probably gone to the camp of those who were coming -in, and they were induced to leave. Evidently he felt assured of the -fact; but until questioned, his caution, Indian-like, kept him silent. -Vow-ches-ter’s sincerity and desire for peace was no longer doubted. -Those who were suspicious of his friendship before were silenced, if -not convinced, when he volunteered to go out and bring in such of the -fugitives as he could convince of the good will of the commissioners. -The young Indian had not yet left the camp, but was found relating his -adventures and good fortune, and was directed to accompany Vow-ches-ter -on his mission of good will. The Chief was instructed to give positive -assurances of protection against hostilities, if any were threatened -by the Chow-chillas. He was also instructed to dispatch runners to -aid his efforts, and was told to notify all that the commissioners -would not remain to be trifled with; if they wished peace they must -come in at once. That if the commissioners should go away, which they -soon would do on their way south, no further efforts for peace would -be made. That the mountain men and soldiers of the whites were angry, -and would no longer take their word for peace, but would punish them -and destroy their supplies. After a few days Vow-ches-ter came back -with about one hundred of the runaways; these were followed by others, -until ultimately, nearly all came back except Ten-ie-ya and his people. -All then in camp expressed a readiness to meet for a grand council and -treaty. - -The reasons given by those who returned for their flight, were that -just before daylight on the morning of their departure Chow-chilla -runners (as had been surmised by Vow-ches-ter) came to their camp with -the report that they were being taken to the plains, where they would -all be killed in order to evade the promises to pay for their lands, -and for revenge. - -In reply to the statements that they had been treated by the whites -as friends, the Chow-chillas answered sneeringly that the whites were -not fools to forgive them for killing their friends and relatives, -and taking their property, and said their scouts had seen a large -mounted force that was gathering in the foot-hills and on the plains, -who would ride over them if they ventured into the open ground of the -reservation, or encampment at the plains. This caused great alarm. They -expected destruction from the whites, and in the excitement caused by -the Chow-chillas, threatened to kill Captain Boling and his men, and -for that purpose reconnoitered the Captain’s camp. The Chow-chillas -dissuaded them from the attempt, saying: “The white men always sleep -on their guns, and they will alarm the white soldiers below by their -firing, and bring upon you a mounted force before you could reach a -place of safety.” - -The young fellow that was asleep in Boling’s camp was not missed -until on the march; his appearance among them gaily clothed, after -being kindly treated, very much aided Vow-ches-ter in his statement -of the object of the council and treaty to be held. The runaways told -the commissioners that they felt very foolish, and were ashamed that -they had been so readily deceived; they also expressed a wish that we -would punish the Chow-chillas, for they had caused all the trouble. -The reception they received soon satisfied them that they had nothing -to fear. They were given food and clothing, and their good fortune -was made known to other bands, and soon all of the tribes in the -vicinity made treaties or sent messengers to express their willingness -to do so, excepting the Chow-chillas and Yosemites. Even Ten-ie-ya -was reported to have ventured into the Indian quarter, but taking a -look at the gaudy colored handkerchiefs and shirts offered him in -lieu of his ancient and well-worn guernsey that he habitually wore, -he scoffingly refused the offers. Turning towards his valley home, -he sorrowfully departed; his feelings apparently irritated by the -evidences of vanity he saw in the gaudy apparel and weak contentment -of those he was leaving behind him. Major Savage, who it was supposed -would be the Indian agent at the end of the war, was absent at the time -of Ten-ie-ya’s visit, but “the farmer” showed the old chief all proper -respect, and had endeavored to induce him to await the Major’s return, -but failed. - -Major Savage, though still in command of the battalion, now devoted -most of his time to the commissioners; and the energy with which our -campaigns had opened, seemed to be somewhat abating. The business -connected with the treaties was transacted principally through his -interpretation, though at times other interpreters were employed. The -mission interpreters only translated the communications made in the -Indian dialects into Spanish; these were then rendered into English by -Spanish interpreters employed by the commission. - -A pretty strong detail of men was now placed on duty at head-quarters -on the Fresno, principally drawn from Captain Dill’s Company. Adjutant -Lewis had really no duties in the field, nor had he any taste or -admiration for the snowy mountains--_on foot_. His reports were written -up at head-quarters, as occasion required, and often long after the -events had transpired to which they related. I was an amused observer -upon one occasion, of Major Savage’s method of making out an _official_ -report, Adjutant Lewis virtually acting only as an amanuensis. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - Campaign against the Chow-chillas--The Favorite Hunting Ground--A - Deer Hunt and a Bear _Chase_--An Accident and an Alarm--A Torch-light - Pow-wow--Indians Discovered--Captain Boling’s Speech--Crossing of - the San Joaquin--A Line of Battle, its Disappearance--Capture of - Indian Village--Jose Rey’s Funeral-pyre--Following the Trail--A - Dilemma--Sentiment and Applause--Returning to Camp--Narrow Escape of - Captain Boling. - - -Major Savage now advised a vigorous campaign against the Chow-chillas. -The stampeding of our captives was one of the incentives for this -movement; or at least, it was for this reason that Captain Boling and -his company most zealously advocated prompt action. The commissioners -approved of the plan, and decided that as the meddlesome interference -of these Indians prevented other bands from coming in, it was -necessary, if a peace policy was to be maintained with other tribes, -that this one be made to feel the power they were opposing; and that -an expedition of sufficient strength to subdue them, should be ordered -immediately to commence operations against them. Accordingly, a force -composed of B. and C. companies, Boling’s and Dill’s, numbering about -one hundred men, under command of Major Savage, started for the San -Joaquin River. The route selected was by way of “Coarse Gold Gulch,” to -the head waters of the Fresno, and thence to the North Fork of the San -Joaquin. - -The object in taking this circuitous route, was to sweep the territory -of any scattered bauds that might infest it. We made our first camp on -the waters of “Coarse Gold Gulch,” in order to allow the scouts time to -explore in advance of the command. No incident occurred here to claim -especial notice, but in the morning, while passing them, I made a hasty -examination of one of the “Figured Rocks” to the left of the trail. - -I saw but little of interest, for at the time, I doubted the antiquity -of the figures. Subsequently, in conversation with Major Savage he said -that the figures had probably been traced by ancient Indians, as the -present tribes had no knowledge of the representations. I afterwards -asked Sandino and other Mission Indians concerning them, but none -could give me any information. The scouts sent out were instructed to -rendezvous near a double fall on the north fork of the San Joaquin in a -little valley through which the trail led connecting with that of the -north fork, as grass would there be found abundant. - -Major Savage was familiar with most of the permanent trails in this -region, as he had traversed it in his former prospecting tours. As we -entered the valley selected for our camping place, a flock of sand-hill -cranes rose from it with their usual persistent yells; and from this -incident, their name was affixed to the valley, and is the name by -which it is now known. - -The scouts, who were watching on the trail below, soon discovered and -joined us. “It is a little early for camping,” the Major said; “but at -this season, good grass can only be found in the mountains in certain -localities. Here there is an abundance, and soap root enough to wash a -regiment.” - -We fixed our camp on the West side of the little valley, about half -a mile from the double falls. These falls had nothing peculiarly -attractive, except as a designated point for a rendezvous. - -The stream above the falls was narrow and very rapid, but below, it ran -placidly for some distance through rich meadow land. The singularity -of the fall was in its being double; the upper one only three or four -feet, and the lower one, which was but a step below, about ten or -twelve feet. In my examination of the locality, I was impressed with -the convenience with which such a water-power could be utilized for -mechanical purposes, if the supply of water would but prove a permanent -one. - -From this camp, new scouts were sent out in search of Indians and their -trails; while a few of us had permission to hunt within a mile of camp. -While picketing our animals, I observed the flock of sand-hill cranes -again settling down some way above us, and started with Wm. Hays to get -a shot at them. We were not successful in getting within range; having -been so recently alarmed, they were suspiciously on the look out, and -scenting our approach, they left the valley. Turning to the eastward, -we were about entering a small ravine leading to the wooded ridge on -the Northwest side of the Fork, when we discovered two deer ascending -the slope, and with evident intention of passing through the depression -in the ridge before us. - -They were looking _back_ on their trail, assurance enough that we had -not been seen. We hurriedly crept up the ravine to head them off, -and waited for their approach. Hays became nervous, and as he caught -a glimpse of the leader, he hastily said, “Here they come--both of -them--I’ll take the buck!” Assenting to his arrangement, we both fired -as they rose in full view. The doe fell almost in her tracks. The -buck made a bound or two up the ridge and disappeared. While loading -our rifles Hays exclaimed, as if in disgust, “A miss, by jingoes! -that’s a fact.” I replied, “not so, old fellow, you hit him hard; he -switched his tail desperately; you will see him again.” We found him -dead in the head of the next ravine, but a few rods off. Hanging up -our game to secure it until our return with horses, we started along -the slope of the ridge toward camp. Hays was in advance, stopping -suddenly, he pointed to some immense tracks of grizzlies, which in the -soft, yielding soil appeared like the foot prints of huge elephants, -and then hastily examining his rifle and putting a loose ball in his -mouth (we had no fixed ammunition in those days, except the old paper -cartridges), started on the tracks. At first I was amused at his -excited, silent preparations and rapid step, and passively accompanied -him. When we had reached a dense under-growth, into which the trail -led, and which he was about to enter, I halted and said: “I have -followed this trail as far as I design to go. Hays, it is madness for -us to follow grizzlies into such a place as that.” Hays turned, came -back, and said in an excited manner, “I didn’t suppose you would show -the white feather with a good rifle in your hands; Chandler gives you -a different character. You don’t mean to say you are afraid to go in -there with me; we’ll get one or two, sure.” - -I was at first inclined to be angry, but replied, “Hays, I am much -obliged to you for the good opinion you have had of me, but I know what -grizzlies are. _I am afraid of grizzlies unless I have every advantage -of them_; and don’t think it would be any proof of courage to follow -them in there.” Hays reached out his hand as he said: “If that is -your corner stake, we will go back to camp.” We shook hands, and that -question was settled between us. Afterwards Hays told of his experience -among Polar bears, and I rehearsed some of mine among cinnamon and -grizzly bears, and he replied that after all he thought “we had acted -wisely in letting the latter remain undisturbed. When in the brush they -seemed to know their advantage, and were more likely to attack, whereas -at other times, they would get out of your way, if they could.” I -replied by asking: “Since you know their nature so well, why did you -want to follow them into the brush?” He retorted, “Simply because I was -excited and reckless, like many another man.” - -Taking the back trail, we soon reached camp, and with our horses -brought in the game before dark. While entering camp, several of our -men rushed by with their rifles. Looking back across the open valley on -our own trail, I saw a man running toward us as if his life depended -on his speed. His long hair was fairly streaming behind as he rushed -breathless into camp, without hat, shoes or gun. When first seen, -the “boys” supposed the Chow-chillas were after him, but no pursuers -appeared in sight. As soon as he was able to talk, he reported that -he had left the squad of hunters he had gone out with, and was moving -along the edge of a thicket on his way to camp, when he struck the -trail of three grizzlies. Having no desire to encounter them, he left -their trail, but suddenly came upon them while endeavoring to get out -of the brush. - -Before he could raise his rifle, they rushed toward him. He threw his -hat at the one nearest, and started off at a lively gait. Glancing -back, he saw two of them quarreling over his old hat; the other was so -close that he dare not shoot, but dropped his gun and ran for life. - -Fortunately, one of his shoes came off, and the bear stopped to examine -and tear it in pieces, and here no doubt discontinued the chase, as he -was not seen afterwards, though momentarily expected by the hunter in -his flight to camp. - -The hero of this adventure was a Texan, that was regarded by those who -knew him best as a brave man, but upon this occasion he was without -side arms, and, as he said, “was taken at a disadvantage.” The Major -joked him a little upon his _continued_ speed, but “Texas Joe” took it -in good part, and replied that the Major, “or any _other_ blank fool, -would have run just as he did.” A few of us went back with Joe, and -found his rifle unharmed. The tracks of his pursuers were distinctly -visible, but no one evinced any desire to follow them up. - -We considered his escape a most remarkable one. - -A little after dark all the scouts came in, and reported that no -Indians had been seen, nor very fresh signs discovered, but that a few -tracks were observed upon the San Joaquin trail. - -The news was not encouraging, and some were a little despondent, but as -usual, a hearty supper and the social pipe restored the younger men to -their thoughtless gayety. My recollections bring to mind many pleasant -hours around the camp-fires of the “Mariposa Battalion.” Many of the -members of that organization were men of more than ordinary culture and -general intelligence; but they had been led out from civilization into -the golden tide, and had acquired a reckless air and carriage, peculiar -to a free life in the mountains of California. - -The beauty of the little valley in which we were camped had so -attracted my attention, that while seated by the camp-fire in the -evening, enjoying my meal, I spoke of it in the general conversation, -and found that others had discovered a “claim” for a future rancho, -if the subjection of the Indians should make it desirable. The scouts -mentioned the fact of there being an abundance of game as far as they -had been, but that of course they dare not shoot, lest the Indians -might be alarmed. These men were provided with venison by Hays and -myself, while many a squirrel, jack rabbit, quail and pigeon was -spitted and roasted by other less fortunate hunters. Our deer were -divided among immediate friends and associates, and Captain Boling -slyly remarked that “the Major’s appetite is about as good as an -Indian’s.” Major Savage seemed to enjoy the conversation in praise -of this region, and in reply to the assertion that this was the best -hunting ground we had yet seen, said: “Where you find game plenty, you -will find Indians not far off. This belt of country beats the region -of the Yosemite or the Poho-no Meadows for game, if the Indians tell -the truth; and with the exception of the Kern River country, it is the -best south of the Tuolumne River. It abounds in grizzlies and cinnamon -bears, and there are some black bears. Deer are very plenty, and a -good variety of small game--such as crane, grouse, quail, pigeons, -road-runners, squirrels and rabbits--besides, in their season, water -fowl. This territory of the Chow-chillas has plenty of black oak acorns -(their favorite acorn), and besides this, there are plenty of other -supplies of bulbous roots, tubers, grasses and clover. In a word, there -is everything here for the game animals and birds, as well as for the -Indians.” - -I now thought I had a turn on the Major, for he was quite enthusiastic, -and I said: “Major, you have made out another Indian Paradise; I -thought you a skeptic.” With a smile as if in remembrance of our -conversation in the Yosemite, he replied: “Doc, I don’t believe these -Chow-chilla devils will leave here without a fight, for they seem to -be concentrating; but we are going to drive them out with a ‘flaming -brand.’ I think we shall find some of them to-morrow, if we expect good -luck.” Turning to Captain Boling he continued, “Captain, we must make -an early move in the morning; and to-morrow we must be careful not to -flush our game before we get within rifle-shot. You had better caution -the guards to be vigilant, for we may have a visit from their scouts -to-night, if only to stampede our horses.” - -Taking this as a hint that it was time to turn in, I rolled myself in -my blankets. My sleep was not delayed by any thoughts of danger to the -camp,--though I would have admitted the danger of loss of animals--but -I was awakened by a stir in camp, and from hearing the Major called. - -Sandino, the Mission Indian interpreter, had just come in from -head-quarters, guiding an escort that had been sent for the Major. The -Sergeant in command handed a letter to Savage, who, after reading it at -the camp fire, remarked to Captain Boling, “the commissioners have sent -for me to come back to head-quarters; we will talk over matters in the -morning, after we have had our sleep.” He was snoring before I slept -again. - -In the morning Major Savage stated that he had been sent for by the -Commissioners to aid in treating with a delegation of Kah-we-ah Indians -sent in by Capt. Kuykendall, and regretted to leave us just at that -time, when we were in the vicinity of the game we were after. That -we would now be under the command of Captain Boling, etc. The Major -made us a nice little speech. It was short, and was the only one he -ever made to us. He then drew an outline map of the country, and -explained to Captain Boling the course and plans he had adopted, but -which were to be varied as the judgment of the Captain should deem to -his advantage. He repeatedly enjoined the Captain to guard against -surprise, by keeping scouts in advance and upon flank. - -He then said he should leave Sandino with us, and told me that Spencer -and myself would be expected to act as interpreters, otherwise Captain -Boling could not make Sandino available as a guide or interpreter, as -he cannot speak a word of English. - -“As surgeon to the expedition, I will see that you are paid extra. -The endurance of those appointed, has been tried and found wanting; -therefore I preferred to leave them behind.” The Major then left us for -head-quarters, which he would reach before night. - -Captain Boling crossed the North Fork below the falls, but after a -few horses had passed over the trail, the bottom land became almost -impassable. As I had noticed an old trail that crossed just above -the falls, I shouted to the rear guard to follow me, and started for -the upper crossing, which I reached some little distance in advance. -Spurring my mule I dashed through the stream. As she scrambled up the -green sod of the slippery shore I was just opening my mouth for a -triumphant whoop, when the sod from the overhanging bank gave way under -the hind feet of the mule, and, before she could recover, we slipped -backwards into the stream, and were being swept down over the falls. -Comprehending the imminent peril, I slipped from my saddle with the -coil of my “riata” clasped in hand (fortunately I had acquired the -habit of leaving the rope upon the mule’s neck), and, by an effort, I -was able to reach the shore with barely length of rope enough to take -one turn around a sappling and then one or two turns around the rope, -and by this means I was able to arrest the mule in her progress, with -her hind legs projecting over the falls, where she remained, her head -held out of the water by the rope. I held her in this position until my -comrades came up and relieved me, and the mule from her most pitiable -position. This was done by attaching another rope, by means of which -it was drawn up the stream to the shore, where she soon recovered her -feet and was again ready for service. Not so my medicines and surgical -instruments, which were attached to the saddle. - -While Captain Boling was closing up his scattered command, I took the -opportunity to examine my damaged stores and wring out my blankets. -Being thus engaged, and out of sight of the main column, they moved on -without us. I hastily dried my instruments, and seeing that my rifle -had also suffered, I hastily discharged and reloaded it. We passed -over the stream below the falls, and were galloping to overtake the -command, when I discovered a detachment with Captain Boling at the -head, riding rapidly up the trail toward us. As we met, the Captain -returned my salutation with “Hallo, Doc., what the devil is the -matter?” I explained the cause of our delay and the reason for the -discharge of my rifle, when the Captain said: “We heard the report of -your rifle, and I thought you were about to have a quilting party of -your own, for I knew you would not waste lead foolishly, so came back -to have a hand in the game.” I apologized for firing without orders and -for causing anxiety; but said, that to be frank, I had thought that my -rifle being so wet, would only “squib.” He good humoredly replied, “I -am glad I found nothing worse, for you have had a narrow escape, and I -think we had now better keep closed up.” - -We soon overtook the command which was following the main trail to -the upper San Joaquin. Crossing the affluent tributaries of the North -Fork, we finally reached a branch now known as the Little San Joaquin. -Here we again camped for the third time since leaving head-quarters. -Lieutenant Chandler and a few of our most experienced scouts were -detailed and sent out on duty. Captain Boling with a small guard -accompanied Chandler for some distance out on the trail, and after -exploring the vicinity of the camp and taking a look at “Battle -Mountain” to the westward of us, returned without having discovered -any fresher signs than had been seen by the scouts. That night the -camp-guard was strengthened and relieved every hour, that there might -be no relaxation of vigilance. A little before daybreak, Lieutenant -Chandler and his scouts came in, and reported that they had discovered -a number of camp fires, and a big pow-wow, on the main San Joaquin -river. Satisfied that Indians were there assembled in force, and that -they were probably holding a war-dance, they returned at once to report -their discovery. - -The camp was quietly aroused, and after a hasty breakfast in the early -dawn, we mounted. Before giving the order to march, Captain Boling -thought it advisable to give us a few words of caution and general -orders in case we should suddenly meet the enemy and engage in battle. -Thinking it would be more impressive if delivered in a formal manner, -he commenced: “Fellow citizens!” (a pause,) “fellow soldiers!” (a -longer pause,) “comrades,” tremulously; but instantly recovering -himself, promptly said: “In _conclusion_, all I have to say, boys, is, -that I hope I shall fight better than I speak.” The Captain joined with -his “fellow citizens” in the roar of laughter, amidst which he gave the -order “march,” and we started for the San Joaquin at a brisk trot. - -No better or braver man rode with our battalion. His popularity was -an appreciation of his true merit. On this occasion he was conscious -of the responsibility of his position, and, for a moment his modesty -overcame him. Although his _speech_ lacked the ready flow of language, -it eloquently expressed to his men the feelings of their Captain, and -we comprehended what he designed to say.[11] A short ride brought us -in sight of the main river. As we drew near to it a party of about one -hundred Indians were discovered drawn up as if to give us battle, but -we soon found their line had been established on the _opposite_ side of -the stream! while the swelling torrent between us seemed impassable. -Our scouts discovered a bark rope stretched across the river, just -above the mouth of the South Fork, which had been quite recently used. -Their scouts had undoubtedly discovered our rapid approach, and in -their haste to report the fact, had neglected to remove this rope, by -means of which, the crossing was made. The Indians of Northern climes -are equally expert in crossing streams. In winter, they sprinkle -sand upon the smooth ice, in order to cross their unshod ponies. The -discovery of the rope being reported to Captain Boling, he proposed to -utilize it by establishing a temporary ferry of logs. On examination, -the rope was found to be too slender to be of practical use, but was -employed to convey across a stronger one, made from our picket ropes or -“riatas,” tied together and twisted. - -Two of our best swimmers crossed the river above the narrows, and -pulled our rope across by means of the bark one. To protect the men on -the opposite side, Captain Middleton, Joel H. Brooks, John Kenzie and -a few other expert riflemen, stood guard over them. A float was made -of dry logs while the rope was being placed in position, and this was -attached to the one across the stream by means of a rude pulley made -from the crotch of a convenient sapling. By this rude contrivance, we -crossed to and fro without accident. The horses and baggage were left -on the right bank in charge of a small but select camp guard. As we -commenced the ascent of the steep acclivity to the table above, where -we had seen the Indians apparently awaiting our approach, great care -was taken to keep open order. We momentarily expected to receive the -fire of the enemy. The hill-side was densely covered with brush, and -we cautiously threaded our march up through it, until we emerged into -the open ground at the crest of the hill. Here, not an Indian was in -sight to welcome or threaten our arrival. They had probably fled as -soon as they witnessed our crossing. Captain Boling felt disappointed; -but immediately sent out an advance skirmish line, while we moved in -closer order upon the village in sight, which we afterwards found to -be that of Jose Rey. Arrived there, we found it forsaken. This village -was beautifully situated upon an elevated table lying between the South -Fork and the main river. It overlooked the country on all sides except -the rear, which could have only been approached through the rugged -cañons of the forks. It would therefore have been impossible for us to -surprise it. We found that the Indians had left nothing of value but -the stores of acorns near by. Captain Boling’s countenance expressed -his feelings, with regard to our lack of success. He ordered the lodges -to be destroyed with all the supplies that could be discovered. - -While entering the village, we had observed upon a little knoll, -the remnant of what had been a large fire; a bed of live coals and -burning brands of manzanita-wood still remained. The ground about it -indicated that there had been a large gathering for a burial-dance and -feast, and for other rites due the departed; and therefore, I surmised -that there had been a funeral ceremony to honor the remains of some -distinguished member of the tribe. I had the curiosity to examine the -heap and found that I was correct. On raking open the ashes of the -funeral-pyre, the calcined bones were exposed, along with trinkets and -articles of various kinds, such as arrow-heads of different shapes -and sizes, for the chase and for warfare; a knife-blade, a metal -looking-glass frame, beads and other articles melted into a mass. From -these indications--having a knowledge of Indian customs--I inferred -that the deceased was probably a person of wealth and distinction in -Indian society. Calling Sandino to the spot, I pointed out to him -my discoveries. Devoutly crossing himself, he looked at the mass I -had raked from the ashes, and exclaimed: “Jose Rey, ah! he is dead!” -I asked how he knew that it was the body of Jose Rey that had been -burned. He said: (picking up the knife-blade) “This was the knife of -Jose Rey.” He then told me “that a chief’s property was known to all of -his people and to many other tribes. That many had been here to take -part in the funeral ceremonies, and only a great chief would have so -many come to do honor to his remains; besides we have known for a long -time that he would die.” I reported this statement to Captain Boling, -who thought it was correct. It was afterwards confirmed by some of the -followers of the dead chief. - -Sandino was or had been a Mission Indian, and prided himself on being -a good Catholic. I asked him why the Indians burnt the bodies of their -dead. He replied after devoutly crossing himself, for no Indian will -willingly speak of their dead. “The Gentiles (meaning the wild Indians) -burn the bodies to liberate the spirit from it.” After again crossing -himself, “We being Christians by the favor of God, are not compelled -to do this duty to our dead. They enter into the spirit-world through -the virtue of the blood of Christ;” then with his face gleaming with -religious fervor, he said, “Oh! is not this a great blessing--_no -labor, no pain, and where all have plenty_.” On a more intimate -acquaintance with Sandino, I found that he had an implicit belief in -all the superstitions of his race, but that the saving grace of the -blood of Christ was simply superior to their charms and incantations. - -My experience among other Indians, particularly the Sioux, Chippewa, -and other tribes that have long had missionaries among them, leads me -to the conclusion that Sandino’s views of Christianity will not be -found to differ materially from those of many others _converted_. I -afterwards had a much more satisfactory conversation with “Russio,” -who verified Sandino’s statement concerning their belief, and object -in burning their dead. This Chief also gave me in detail some of -their traditions and mythologies, which I shall reserve for future -description. - -Our scouts reported that the fresh trails followed by them led to the -main trail up the cañon of the river. Everything having been set on -fire that would burn, we followed in pursuit toward the “High Sierras.” -Before starting the scouts that had gone up the South Fork cañon were -called in, and we lightened our haversacks by taking a hasty but -hearty lunch. We followed the trail continuously up, passed a rocky, -precipitous point, that had terminated in a ridge at the rear of the -village, and pursuing it rapidly for several miles, we suddenly found -that the traces we had been following disappeared. We came to a halt, -and retracing our steps, soon found that they had left the trail at -some bare rocks, but it was impossible to trace them farther in any -direction. Sandino expressed the opinion that the Indians had crossed -the river; and pointing across the foaming rapids said: “They have gone -there!” He was denounced by the scouts for this assertion, and they -swore that “an otter would drown if he attempted to swim in such a -place.” Captain Boling asked: “Is he a coward afraid of an ambush, or -is he trying to shield his people by discouraging our advance?” After -Spencer and myself had talked with him a few moments, we both expressed -our faith in his loyalty, and told the Captain that we thought he was -sincere in the opinion expressed, that the Indians had crossed to the -other side. I stated that I did not think it impossible for them to do -so, as they were all most excellent swimmers. That I had seen the Yumas -of the Colorado river dive, time after time, and bring up fish caught -with their bare hands, and perform other seemingly impossible feats. I -would not, therefore, denounce Sandino without some proof of treachery. -Captain Boling was not convinced, however, by my statements. It was -decided that the Chow-chil-las had not crossed the river, and that we -should probably find their trail further on. - -With scouts in advance, we resumed our march up the cañon. The trail -was rough, and, in places, quite precipitous; but we followed on until -reaching a point in the cañon where we should expect to find “_signs_,” -for there was no choice of routes, but this only trail up the cañon -had not been used by any one; and the advance were found awaiting the -Captain’s arrival at the gorge. The Captain was puzzled, and ordered a -halt. A council was held, about as satisfactory as the other had been, -but all agreed in the conclusion that the Indians had beaten us in wood -craft, and had artfully thrown us from their trail; though their signal -fires were still to be seen at intervals on the high rocky points of -the river. This was a common mode of communication among them. By -a peculiar arrangement of these fires during the night, and by the -smoke from them during the day, they are able to telegraph a system of -secret correspondence to those on the look out. An arrow, shot into the -body of a tree at a camp ground, or along a trail; or the conspicuous -arrangement of a bent bush or twig, often shows the direction to be -traveled. A bunch of grass, tied to a stick and left at the fork of a -stream or trail, or at a deserted camp, performed the same service. -Upon the treeless deserts or plains, a mark upon the ground, by camp or -trail, gave the required information; thus proving that these people -possess considerable intelligent forethought. - -After looking at the signal fires for some time, Captain Boling said: -“Gentlemen, there is one thing I can beat these fellows at, and that -is in building fires. We will go back to the crossing, and from there -commence a new campaign. We will build fires all over the mountains, so -that these Indians will no longer recognize their own signals. We will -make ours large enough to burn all the acorns and other provender we -can find. In a word, we are forced into a mode of warfare unsuited to -my taste or manhood, but this campaign has convinced me of the utter -folly of attempting to subdue them unless we destroy their supplies of -all kinds. Gentlemen, you can take my word for it, they do not intend -to fight us, or they would have tried to stop us at the crossing, where -they had every advantage.” - -There is no point in the mountains more easy to defend than their -village. It was located most admirably. If they had the fight in them, -that was claimed by Major Savage and the Indians at head-quarters, -we could never have crossed the river or approached their village. -Their courage must have died with Jose Rey. His courage must have -been supposed to be that of the tribe. They have become demoralized, -being left without the energy of the chief. Their warlike nature is -a humbug. Talk about these Indians defeating and driving back the -Spanish Californians, after raiding their ranches, as has been told! If -they did, they must have driven back bigger cowards than themselves, -who have run away without even leaving a trail by which they can be -followed. I don’t believe it.” The Captain delivered this serio-comic -discourse while seated on a rock, with most inimitable drollery; and -at my suggestion that they might perhaps yet show themselves, he -replied rather impatiently: “Nonsense, they will not exhibit themselves -to-day!” and with this convincing remark, he ordered our return. - -As we filed away from the narrow gorge, those left in rear reported -“Indians!” Instinctively turning, we discovered on the _opposite_ -side of the river, a half dozen or more, not encumbered with any kind -of garment. A halt was called, and Chandler and a number of others -instantly raised their rifles for a shot. They were within range, for -the cañon was here quite narrow, but the Captain promptly said: “No -firing, men! I am anxious for success, but would rather go back without -a captive, than have one of those Indians killed, unless,” he added -after a moment’s pause, “they are fools enough to shoot at us.” Just -at the conclusion of this order, and as if in burlesque applause of -the sentiment expressed by the Captain, the savages commenced slapping -their naked swarthy bodies in a derisive manner. - -The laugh of our men was parried by the Captain, and although annoyed -by this unexpected demonstration, he laughingly remarked that he had -never before been so _peculiarly_ applauded for anything he had ever -said. The absurdity of the scene restored us all to a better humor. -Again the order was given to march, and we resumed our course down -the cañon, with the renewed demonstrations of the Indians. The orders -of the Captain alone prevented a return _salute_, which would have -promptly checked their offensive demonstrations. - -At the precipice, which we had so guardedly passed on our way up the -cañon, we came near losing our Captain. In passing this locality he -made a mis-step, and slipped towards the yawning abyss at the foot -of the cliff; but for a small pine that had been “moored in the -rifted rock,” no earthly power could have saved him from being dashed -to the bottom. He fortunately escaped with some severe bruises, a -lacerated elbow and a sprained wrist. This accident and our tired and -disappointed condition, gave a more serious appearance to our line, -and a more sombre tone to our conversations than was usual. We reached -camp in a condition, however, to appreciate the supper prepared by our -guard. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - A Camp Discussion--War or Police Clubs--Jack Regrets a Lost - Opportunity--Boling’s Soothing Syrup--A Scribe Criticises and - Apologises--Indian War Material and its Manufacture--The Fire-stick - and its Sacred Uses--Arrival at Head-quarters. - - -It was not until after we had partaken of a hearty supper and produced -our pipes, that the lively hum of conversation and the occasional -careless laughter indicated the elastic temperament of some of the -hardy, light-hearted, if not light-headed, “boys,” while in camp. The -guard was duly detailed, and the signal given to turn in, but not -authoritatively; and tired as we were, many of us sat quite late around -the camp-fires on that evening. The excitements and disappointments -of our recent excursion did not prove to be promoters of sleep; some -of us were too tired to sleep until we had somewhat rested from our -unusual fatigue. The events of the day--the _true method of subduing -Indians_, and the probable results of the plans proposed by Captain -Boling for future operations in this vicinity, were the general topics -of conversation among the different groups. This general inclination -to discuss the “peace policy” of the commissioners and the plans of -our officers, did not arise from anything like a mutinous disposition, -nor from any motives having in view the least opposition to any of the -measures connected with the campaign in which we were then engaged. - -We had expected that this tribe would resist our invasion of their -territory and show fight. In this we had been disappointed. The -self-confident and experienced mountain men, and the ex-rangers -from the Texan plains, felt annoyed that these Indians had escaped -when almost within range of our rifles. Our feelings--as a military -organization--were irritated by the successful manner in which they -had eluded our pursuit, and thrown us from their trail. _We had been -outwitted by these ignorant Indians_; but as individuals, no one seemed -inclined to acknowledge it; our lack of success was attributed to the -restraints imposed on the free movements of our organization by orders -of the commissioners. Although none designed to censure our Captain -for his failure, the free speech intimations, that we might have been -successful, if Major Savage had remained to aid us with his knowledge, -was not soothing to the Captain’s already wounded pride. The popularity -of Captain Boling was not affected by our camp-fire discussion. Had -a charge, or intimation even, been made by any one of incapacity or -neglect of duty in our free expressions, the personal safety of the -individual would have been immediately endangered; although no excess -of modesty was observed in expressing opinions. Lieut. Chandler was at -our own fire, and our officers talked over the solution of the enigma -in a quiet conversational tone. The usual cheerful countenance of -the Captain had a more serious expression. His attention was as much -attracted to the groups around us, as to the remarks of Lt. Chandler. - -The energetic Lieutenant was our most rigid disciplinarian when on -duty. His fearless impetuosity in the execution of all his duties, -made him a favorite with the more reckless spirits; his blunt and -earnest manner excited their admiration; for, though possessed of a -sublime egotism, he was entirely free from arrogance. Instead of his -usual cheerful and agreeable conversation, he was almost morosely -taciturn; he refilled his capacious mouth with choice Virginia, and -settled back against the wood-pile. After listening to us for a while, -he said: “I am heartily sick of this Quaker-style of subduing Indians. -So far,--since our muster-in--we have had plenty of hard work and -rough experience, with no honor or profit attending it all. We might -as well be armed with clubs like any other police.” There was none in -our group disposed to dispute the assertion of Chandler. As a body, we -were anxiously desirous of bringing the Indian troubles to a close as -soon as it could be practically accomplished. Many of us had suffered -pecuniarily from the depredations of these Mountain tribes, and had -volunteered to aid in subduing them, that we might be able to resume -our mining operations in peace. Many of us had left our own profitable -private business to engage in these campaigns for the public good, -expecting that a vigorous prosecution of the war would soon bring it to -a close. I will here say that some sensational newspaper correspondents -took it upon themselves to condemn this effort made by the settlers -to control these mountain tribes, which had become so dangerous; -charging the settlers with having excited a war, and to have involved -the government in an unneccessary expense, for the purpose of reaping -pecuniary benefits; and that our battalion had been organized to afford -occupation to adventurous idlers, for the pay afforded. Knowing the -ignorance that obtains in regard to real Indian character, and the -mistaken philanthropy that would excuse and probably even protect and -lionize murderers, because they were _Indians_; but little attention -was at first paid to these falsely slanderous articles, until one was -published, so personally offensive, and with such a false basis of -statement, that Captain Boling felt it his duty to call for the name of -its author. His name was given by the editor of the paper on a formal -demand being made. The Captain then _intimated_ through a friend, that -a public retraction of the article was desirable. In due time, the -Captain received a very satisfactory apology, and a slip of a published -retraction of the offensive correspondence. The investigation developed -the fact that the writer--who was an Eastern philanthropist--had been -played upon by certain parties in Stockton, who had failed to get the -contract to supply the battalion. - -At an adjoining fire a long-haired Texan was ventilating his professed -experience in the management of Indians “down thar.” Observing that -Captain Boling was within hearing of his criticism, he turned, and -without any intentional disrespect, said: “Cap., you orter a let me -plunk it to one o’ them red skins up in the cañon thar. I’d a bin good -for one, sure; and if I’d a had my way o’ treatin’ with Injuns, Cap., I -reckon I’d a made a few o’ them squawk by this time.” - -Captain Boling was suffering from his bruises and sprained wrist, and -he evidently was not pleased to hear these liberal criticisms, but -knowing the element by which he was surrounded, he did not forget -the policy of conciliating it in order to prevent any feelings of -discontent from arising so soon after having assumed full command. -He therefore quickly replied: “I have no especial regard for these -Chow-chillas; you are probably aware of that, Jack; but the orders and -instructions of the Commissioners will have to be disregarded if we -shoot them down at sight. It would have been almost like deliberate -murder to have killed those naked Indians to-day, because, Jack, you -know _just_ what you can do with that rifle of yours. If you had fired -you knew you was sure to kill; but the Indians did not know the danger -there was in coming inside your range. It was lucky for the cowards -that you did not shoot.” This allusion to the Texan’s skill with -his rifle disposed of the subject as far as he was concerned, for he -“turned in,” while a broad grin showed his satisfaction as he replied, -“I reckon you’re about on the right trail now, Cap,” and disappeared -under his blanket. - -Captain Boling sat for some time apparently watching the blazing logs -before him. He took no part in the discussion of Indian affairs, which -continued to be the engrossing subject among the wakeful ones, whose -numbers gradually diminished until Spencer and one or two others beside -myself only remained at our fire. The Captain then said: “I do not -despair of success in causing this tribe to make peace, although I -cannot see any very flattering prospects of our being able to corral -them, or force an immediate surrender. They do not seem inclined to -fight us, and we cannot follow them among the rocks in those almost -impassable cañons with any probability of taking them. Bare-footed they -rapidly pass without danger over slippery rocks that we, leather-shod, -can only pass at the peril of our lives. My mishap of to-day is but a -single illustration of many that would follow were we to attempt to -chase them along the dizzy heights they pass over. Being lightly clad, -or not at all, they swim the river to and fro at will, and thus render -futile any attempt to pursue them up the river, unless we divide the -force and beat up on both sides at the same time. I have thought this -matter over, and have reached the conclusion that, unless some lucky -accident throws them into our hands, I see but one course to pursue, -and that is to destroy their camps and supplies, and then return to -head-quarters.” - -After having had the bandages arranged on his swollen arm he bade -us good night, and sought such repose as his bruised limbs and -disappointed ambition would permit. Having ended our discussions, -we came to the sage conclusion that Captain Boling was in command, -and duty required our obedience to his orders. Satisfied with this -decision, we readily dropped off to sleep. - -The next morning the usual jocular hilarity seemed to prevail in camp. -A refreshing slumber had seemingly given renewed vigor to the tired -explorers of the rough trail up the cañon. The camp guard assigned -to duty at “our ferry” were on duty during the night, so that the -breakfast call was promptly responded to with appetites unimpaired. -Captain Boling’s arm was dressed and found to be somewhat improved in -appearance, though very sore. He would not consent to remain in camp, -and ordered his horse to be saddled after breakfast. Before the morning -sun had risen we were in our saddles, endeavoring to explore the region -north of the San Joaquin. Small detachments were detailed from both -companies to explore, on foot, up the South Fork, and the territory -adjacent. Upon the return of this command, their report showed that -quite a large number of Indians had passed over that stream, though -none were seen. A considerable supply of acorns was found and destroyed -by this expedition; but after they left the oak table-land, near the -fork, they reported the country to the east to be about as forbidding -as that on the main river. Captain Boling detailed a few footmen to -scatter over the country on the north side, to burn any _cachés_ they -might find, while we on horseback swept farther north, towards the -Black Ridge. We found the soil soft and yielding, and in places it -was with difficulty that our weak, grass-fed animals could pass over -the water-soaked land, even after we had dismounted. I thought this -boggy ground, hard enough later in the season, another obstacle to a -successful pursuit, and so expressed myself to the Captain. I told him -that in ’49 I stayed over night with Mr. Livermore of the Livermore -Pass, and that now I fully comprehended why he thought the mountain -tribes could not be entirely subdued, because, as he said, “they will -not fight except sure of victory, and cannot be caught.” - -Mr. Livermore said he had followed up several raiding parties of -Indians who were driving off stock they had stolen from the Ranchos, -but only upon one occasion did they make a bold stand, when his party -was driven back, overcome by numbers. Captain Boling was silent for -some time, and then said: “Perhaps after all I have done these Indians -injustice in calling them cowards; probably they feel that they are not -called upon to fight and lose any of their braves, when by strategy -they can foil and elude us. Human nature is about alike in war as in -other things; it is governed by what it conceives to be its interest.” - -[Illustration: CACHES OR INDIAN ACORN STOREHOUSES.] - -There were in the country we passed over, some beautiful mountain -meadows and most luxuriant forests, and some of the sloping table lands -looked like the ornamental parks of an extensive domain. These oak-clad -tables and ridges, were the harvest fields of the San Joaquin Indians, -and in their vicinity we found an occasional group of deserted huts. -These, with their adjacent supplies of acorns, were at once given to -the flames. The acorns found and destroyed by the scouting parties, -were variously estimated at from eight hundred to one thousand -bushels; beside the supply of Piñon pine-nuts and other supplies -hoarded for future use. The pine-nuts were not all destroyed by fire; -most of them were confiscated, and served as a dessert to many a roast. - -From the total amount of acorns estimated to have been destroyed, their -supplies were comparatively small, or the number of Indians on the San -Joaquin had been, as in other localities, vastly overrated. Our search -was thoroughly made--the explorations from day to day, extending from -our camps over the whole country to an altitude above the growth of -the oaks. During these expeditions, not an Indian was seen after those -noticed on the upper San Joaquin; but fresh signs were often discovered -and followed, only to be traced to the rocky cañons above where, like -deceptive “_ignes fatui_,” they disappeared. - -Being allowed the largest liberty as surgeon to the expedition, I had -ample time to examine the various things found in their camps, and -obtain from Sandino all the information I could concerning them. The -stone arrow-heads and their manufacture, especially interested me. I -found considerable quantities of the crude material from which they -were made, with many other articles brought from other localities, -such as resin, feathers, skins, pumice-stone, salt, etc., used in the -manufacture of their implements of war, and for the chase as well as -for domestic uses. - -At this time but few guns were in the possession of these mountain -tribes. Their chief weapons of war and for the chase were bows and -arrows. With these they were very expert at short range, and to make -their weapons effective were disposed to lay in ambush in war, and -upon the trails of their game. Their bows were made from a species of -yew peculiar to the West, from cedar and from a spinated evergreen -tree, rare in Southern California, which, for want of scientific -classification, I gave the name of “nutmeg pine.” It bears a nut -resembling in general appearance that agreeable spice, while the -covering or pulpy shell looks very much like mace. The nut is, however, -strongly impregnated with resin. The leaves are long, hard, and so -sharp that the points will pierce the flesh like sharp steel. The wood -is stronger and more elastic than either the yew, cedar or fir. It is -susceptible of a fine polish. I made a discovery of a small cluster -of this species of tree at the foot of the cascades in the cañon, two -miles below the Yosemite valley, while engaged in a survey of that -locality.[12] - -The shafts of their arrows are made of reeds, and from different -species of wood, but the choicest are made of what is called Indian -arrow-wood (Le Hamite). This wood is only found in dark ravines and -deep rocky cañons in the mountains, as it seems to require dampness and -shade. Its scarcity makes the young shoots of a proper growth a very -valuable article of barter between the mountain tribes and those of the -valleys and plains. A locality in the Yosemite valley once famous for -its supply of this arrow-wood, was the ravine called by the Yosemites -“Le Hamite,” (as we might say “the oaks,” or “the pines,”) but which is -now designated as “Indian Cañon.” - -Their arrow-shafts are first suitably shaped, and then polished between -pieces of pumice stone. This stone was also used in fashioning and -polishing their bows, spear-shafts and war clubs. Pumice stone is -found in abundance in the volcanic regions of California and Oregon, -and east of the Sierra Nevada. The quality of the best observed by me, -was much finer and lighter than that seen in the shops as an article -of commerce. The arrow heads are secured to the shaft by threads of -sinew, and a species of cement used for that and other purposes. The -arrow-heads made and in most common use by the California Indians, as -well as by many other tribes in the mountain ranges of the West and -Southwest, are of the same shape and general appearance, and of similar -material, with the exception of obsidian and old junk bottles, as the -arrow heads found in all parts of the United States. They have been -generally supposed to have been made and used by the pre-historic races -that once inhabited this continent. The bow and arrows were in common -use by the aborigines when America was first discovered, and their use -has been continued to the present time among the tribes whose limited -territories were not to any extent intruded upon by the whites. - -The Indians of California, unlike those of Southern Mexico and South -America, who use the woorara (strychnos toxifera), poison their -arrow-heads with the poison of the rattlesnake. Some animal’s liver is -saturated with the poison and left until it reaches a state of thorough -decomposition, when the barbs are plunged into the festering mass, -withdrawn and dried. The gelatinous condition of the liver causes the -poison to adhere to the stone, and the strength of the poison is thus -preserved for some days. Only those arrow-heads that are inserted into -a socket, and held in place by cement, are thus poisoned. These are -easily detached after striking an object (the concussion shattering the -cement, and the play of the shaft loosening the barb), and are left to -rankle in the wound. - -According to Russio, however, this practice is now seldom resorted to, -except in revenge for some great or fancied injury, or by the more -malignant of a tribe, Indian policy seeming to discountenance a former -custom. - -The introduction of fire arms among them, has been from the frontiers -of civilization. The “_flint_,” or more properly cherty rock, when -first quarried, is brittle and readily split and broken into the -desired shapes required, even with the rude implements used by the -Indians; though it is not probable that any but themselves could use -them, as considerable skill seems to be required. The tool commonly -used in the manufacture of arrow-heads, is a species of hammer or pick, -made by fastening the sharp prong of a deer’s horn to a long stick. - -With these instruments of various sizes laminated pieces of rock are -separated, such as slate, with quartz in filtrations, and scales -are chipped from rocks, volcanic and other glass, with a skill that -challenges admiration. Stone hammers, or pieces of hard stone, were -secured by withes and used in some of the processes of flaking; and -I have been assured that steel implements have been stolen from the -miners and used for the same purpose, but I never saw them used. -Arrow-heads were found, made from bones, from chert, obsidian or -volcanic glass, and even old junk bottles, obtained for the purpose, -during their gushing days, from the deserted camps of the libative -miners. - -The most approved fire-arms are now found among many of the western -tribes, where but a few years ago bows and arrows were in common use. -Although these hereditary implements of war and of the chase are almost -wholly discarded, occasionally an old-fashioned Indian may be seen, -armed with his bow and arrows, his fire-stick a foot long, occupying -the hole punctured in the lobe of one ear, and his reed-pipe filling -the like position in the other, while his skunk-skin pouch contained -his kin-ne-kin-nick, a piece of spunk and dry charred cedar, on which a -light was obtained by rapid friction with his fire-stick. This method -of procuring fire, has, even among the Indians, been superseded by the -flint and steel, and they in turn by the labor-saving friction matches. - -I have, however, recently witnessed the process of lighting a fire by -this primitive process, among the priests of the Winnebago and other -eastern tribes, who still use and preserve the fire-stick in making -fire for their sacred rites, during which they chant in a traditionary -Indian dead language, an interpretation of which they do not pretend -they are able to make. The priests told me that bad spirits would -interfere with their ministrations if they did not preserve the customs -of their fathers, and that the dead language made their ceremonies all -the more impressive and awe-inspiring to their auditors. - -During our explorations up the San Joaquin and branches, the rapidly -melting snow on the mountains above flooded the streams which we were -required to cross in our excursions, and we were often compelled from -this cause to leave our horses and proceed on foot; hence our work was -toilsome and slow. - -[Illustration: FIRE STICK AS USED.] - -As soon as Captain Boling was satisfied that we had accomplished, in -this locality, all that could be expected of his command, we started -for head-quarters. The route selected for our return was by way of -“Fine Gold Gulch,” and down the San Joaquin to a camp opposite the site -of Fort Miller, that was about being established for the protection of -the settlers. This was done upon recommendation of the commissioners. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - - Starvation subdues the Chow-chillas, and the Result is Peace--Captain - Kuykendall’s Expeditions--An Attack--Rout and Pursuit--A Wise - Conclusion--Freezing out Indians--A wild Country--A terrific - View--Yosemite _versus_ King’s River--Submission of the Indians - South of the San Joaquin--Second Expedition to Yosemite--Daring - Scouts--Capture of Indians--Naming of “Three Brothers.” - - -A few days after our return from the campaign against the -Chow-chil-las, a small delegation from a Kah-we-ah band on King’s river -was sent in by Captain Kuykendall, whose energy had subdued nearly -all of the Indians in his department. The chief of this band informed -Major Savage that Tom-kit and Frederico, successors in authority to -Jose Rey, had visited his camp, and had reported that they were very -hungry. They came, they said, to hold a council. The chief told the -Major that he had advised them to come in with him and make a treaty, -but they refused. They said the white man’s “medicine” was too powerful -for them; but if their great chief had not died, he would have driven -the white men from the mountains, for he was “a heap wise.” The white -soldiers had killed their great chief; they had killed many of their -best warriors; they had burned up their huts and villages and destroyed -their supplies, and had tried to drive their people from their -territory, and they would kill their women and children if they did not -hide them where they could not be found; and much more in a similar -vein. - -A small supply of acorns had been given these fugitives, and when the -chief left, they had promised to return and hear what the commissioners -had said. Major Savage reported this, and with the commissioners’ -approval, decided to return with the Kah-we-ah chief and meet in -counsel with the Chow-chil-las. He took with him sufficient “beef” on -foot to give the Indians a grand feast, which lasted several days; -during which time arrangements were completed for treaties with all of -the remaining bands of the Kah-we-ah tribe, and with the Chow-chillas. -The result of the Major’s negotiations were in the highest degree -satisfactory. Captain Boling, however, claimed some of the honor, for, -said he, I defeated the Chow-chillas by _firing at long range_. - -This once turbulent and uncompromising tribe became the most tractable -of the mountain Indians. They were superior in all respects to those of -most other tribes. They had intimate relations with the Monos, a light -colored race as compared with the Valley or Kah-we-ah tribe, and were -very expert in the manufacture and use of the bow and arrow. The Mono’s -had intermarried with the Chow-chil-las, and they aided them in their -intercourse with the Pah-u-tes in their barter for salt, obsidian, lava -and other commodities. The Chow-chil-las now being disposed of, and a -treaty signed by the other tribes, it was decided by the commissioners -that our next expedition should be against the Yo-sem-i-tes. This -had been recommended by Major Savage as the only practical method of -effecting any terms with their old Chief. Every inducement had been -offered them that had been successful with the others; but had been -treated with contempt. The liberal supplies of beef they refused, -saying they preferred horse-flesh. The half-civilized garbs and gaudy -presents tendered at the agency were scorned by Ten-ie-ya as being no -recompense for relinquishing the freedom of his mountain home. Major -Savage announced that the expedition would start as soon as the floods -had somewhat subsided, so that the streams could be crossed. As for -ourselves, we had learned to take advantage of any narrow place in a -stream, and by means of ropes stretched for feet and hands, we crossed -without difficulty streams that we could not ford with horses. As this -delay would allow an opportunity for some of the battalion to see to -such private business as required their attention, short furloughs were -granted to those most anxious to improve this occasion. - -While the companies of Captains Boling and Dill were exploring the -vicinities of the Merced and San Joaquin in search of Indians, Captain -Kuykendall, with the able support of his Lieutenants and his company, -were actively engaged in the same duties south of the San Joaquin. -Captain Kuykendall vigorously operated in the valleys, foot-hills and -mountains of the King’s and Kah-we-ah rivers, and those of the smaller -streams south. The Indians of Kern river, owing to the influence of a -mission Chief, “Don-Vincente,” who had a plantation at the Tehon pass, -remained peaceful, and were not disturbed. The success of Captain -Kuykendall’s campaigns enabled the commissioners to make treaties with -all the tribes within the Tulare valley, and those that occupied the -region south of the San Joaquin river. - -Owing to lapse of time since these events, and other causes, I am -unable to do justice to him, or the officers and men under him. My -personal recollections of the incidents of his explorations, were -acquired while exchanging stories around camp fires. Operating as they -did, among the most inaccessible mountains in California, with but one -company, they successfully accomplished the duties assigned them. - -It was supposed that some of the tribes and bands among whom they -were sent were extremely hostile to the whites, and that they would -combine and resist their approach; but after a single engagement on -King’s river, the Indians were put to flight without the loss of a -man, and could not be induced to hazard another like encounter. The -plans of operation were similar to those of Captains Boling and Dill: -the destruction of the camps of all who refused to come in and have a -talk with the commissioners. Captain Kuykendall’s company found these -people almost without fire-arms and civilized clothing of any kind, and -depending wholly on their bows and arrows. Except in the vicinity of -King’s and Kah-we-ah rivers, the savages were scattered over a large -range of country. Their camps were generally in the valleys and among -the foot-hills; when alarmed, they fled to the rocky cañons among the -mountains. In one of our conversations, during a visit of Captain -Kuykendall to the Fresno, he said: “When we first started out, we -learned from our scouts and guides, that a large body of Indians had -collected well up on King’s river. Making a rapid march, we found, on -arriving in sight, that they were inclined to give us battle. We at -once charged into their camp, routed and killed a number, while others -were ridden down and taken prisoners. We followed the fugitives, making -a running fight, until compelled to leave our horses, when they eluded -pursuit. Not yet discouraged, we followed on toward the head waters -of the Kah-we-ah, seeing occasionally, upon a ridge just ahead of us, -groups of Indians; but upon our reaching _that_ locality, they were -resting on the _next ridge_; and as we came into view, turned their -backs upon us, applauding our efforts to overtake them, in a very -_peculiar_ manner. They fled into a worse country than anything before -seen in our explorations, and I soon perceived the folly of attempting -to follow them longer. As to this region east and southeast of the -termination of our pursuit, I have only this to say, that it is simply -indescribable. I did not see any ‘_dead Indians_’ after leaving the -village, and during the pursuit, although some of the boys were sure -they had ‘fetched their man.’ It is certain that a number were killed -in the assault, but how many, we were unable to ascertain, for upon our -return, as usual, the dead had been carried off. We lost no men in the -fight, and had but one wounded. The wound was very painful, having been -inflicted by one of the glass arrow-heads that it is designed shall be -left rankling in the wound; but after that was extracted, the wound -soon healed without serious results.” - -After this chase on foot into the “High Sierras,” the operations of -Capt. Kuykendall were more limited, for, as he had stated, he regarded -it as the height of folly to attempt to follow the lightly-armed -and lighter clad “hostiles” with cavalry, into their rocky mountain -retreats. In the saddle, except a few sailors in his company, his men -felt at home, and were willing to perform any amount of severe duty, -however dangerous or difficult it might be, but on foot, the Texans, -especially, were like “Jack ashore, without anything to steer by.” -When required to take a few days, provisions and their blankets on -their backs, their efforts, like those of our command, were not very -effective, so far as catching the natives was concerned. These foot -expeditions were designed by the officers to keep the enemy alarmed, -and in the cold regions, while their supplies were being destroyed by -the mounted force ranging below. By this strategy, Captain Kuykendall -kept his men constantly occupied, and at the same time displayed his -genius as a soldier. - -His foot expeditions were generally made by a few enthusiastic scouts, -who were as much induced to volunteer to perform this duty from a love -of nature as from a desire to fight. Here were found - - “The palaces of Nature, whose vast walls - Have pinnacled in clouds their snowy scalps, - And throned eternity in icy halls - Of cold sublimity, where forms and falls - The avalanche--the thunderbolt of snow! - All that expands the spirit, yet appals, - Gather around these summits, as to show - How earth may pierce to Heaven, yet leave vain man below.” - -The stories told by the men in Kuykendall’s command were received with -doubts, or as exaggerations. Their descriptions represented deeper -valleys and higher cliffs than had been seen and described by scouts -of the other companies. It was intimated by us, who had previously -described the region of the Yosemite, “that the man who told the first -story in California stood a poor chance.” Having read Professor J. D. -Whitney’s reports of that region, I can better appreciate the reports -of Captain Kuykendall and those under him, of the character of the -mountain territory to which they had been assigned. Mr. Whitney, State -Geologist, in speaking of the geological survey of this vicinity, says: -“Of the terrible grandeur of the region embraced in this portion of -the Sierra, it is hardly possible to convey any idea. Mr. Gardner, -in his notes of the view from Mount Brewer, thus enumerates some of -the most striking features of the scene: ‘Cañons from two to five -thousand feet deep, between thin ridges topped with pinnacles sharp as -needles; successions of great crater-like amphitheatres, with crowning -precipices, over-sweeping snow-fields and frozen lakes, everywhere -naked and shattered granite without a sign of vegetation, except where -a few gnarled and storm-beaten pines ... cling to the rocks in the -deeper cañons; such were the elements of the scene we looked down upon, -while cold gray clouds were drifting overhead.’” - -This description applies more properly to the territory east of any -point reached by Captain Kuykendall, but it verifies the statements -made by him and those of some of his men. - -While on our second expedition to the Yosemite, some of Captain -Kuykendall’s company, who had come to headquarters and had been -allowed the privileges, volunteered to accompany our supply train, -as they said: “To see what kind of a country we were staying in.” -One, an enthusiastic lover of nature, said on his return: “The King’s -river country, and the territory southeast of it, beats the Yosemite -in terrific grandeur, but in sublime beauty you have got us.” As the -furloughs granted to the members of B. and C. companies expired, all -promptly reported for duty, and preparations were completed for another -campaign against the Yosemites. - -Captain Dill, with part of his company, was retained on duty at -headquarters, while Lt. Gilbert with a detachment of C. Company, was -ordered to report for duty to Captain Boling. Dr. Pfifer was placed in -charge of a temporary hospital, erected for the use of the battalion. -Surgeon Bronson had resigned, preferring the profits received from -his negro slaves, who were then mining on Sherlock’s creek to all -the romance of Indian warfare. The doctor was a clever and genial -gentleman, but a poor mountaineer. Doctor Lewis Leach was appointed to -fill the vacancy. Doctor Black was ordered to duty with Captain Boling. -Major Savage offered me a position, and it was urged upon me by Captain -Boling, but having a number of men engaged in a mining enterprise, in -which Spencer and myself were interested, we had mutually agreed to -decline all office. Beside this, when Mr. Spencer and myself entered -into service together, it was with the expectation that we would soon -be again at liberty. But once in the service, our personal pride -and love of adventure would not allow us to become _subordinate_ by -accepting office. - -As it was the design of Major Savage to make a thorough search in the -territory surrounding the Yosemite, if we failed in surprising the -inhabitants in their valley, a few scouts and guides were provided -for the expedition to aid in our search among the “High Sierras,” so -distinctively named by Prof. Whitney. Among our ample supplies ropes -were furnished, by order of Major Savage, suitable for floats, and for -establishing bridges where needed. These bridges were suggested by -myself, and were useful as a support while passing through swift water, -or for crossing narrow but rushing torrents. This was accomplished -expeditiously by simply stretching “_taut_” two ropes, one above the -other, the upper rope, grasped by the hands, serving to secure the safe -passage of the stream. Where trees were not found in suitable position -to make the suspension, poles were lashed together so as to form -_shears_, which served for trestles. I also suggested that snow-shoes -could probably be used with advantage on our mountain excursions. The -use of these I found entirely unknown, except to Major Savage and a -few other eastern men. My experience favored their use, as I had often -found it easier to travel _over_ deep snow than to wallow through it. -My suggestion caused a “_heap_” of merriment, and my friend Chandler -laughed until he became “_powerful weak_,” and finally “I was assailed -by so many shafts of witty raillery from my southern comrades, that I -was willing to retreat, and cry out, ‘hold, enough!’” - -The services of Major Savage being indispensable to the Commissioners, -it was decided that the expedition would be under the command of -Captain Boling. In making this announcement, the Major said: he -expected Ten-ie-ya and his people would come in with us if he was -formally invited, and a sufficient escort provided. Captain Boling -very seriously assured the Major, that if the Yosemites accepted the -invitation, he should endeavor to make the trip a _secure_ one; there -should be no neglect on the part of the escort if suitable _supplies_ -were provided for subsistence. Major Savage laughingly replied that as -the expedition would be under the especial command of Captain Boling, -he had no fears that ample supplies would not be provided. - -Our preparations being made, we again started for the Merced in search -of the Yosemites. It was the design of Capt. Boling to surprise the -Indians if possible, and if not, to cut off the escape of their women -and children, the capture of whom, would soon bring the warriors to -terms. With this plan in view, and leaving Chandler virtually in -command of the column, we made a rapid march direct for their valley, -crossing the streams without much difficulty, and without accident. - -The advance, consisting of Captain Boling with a small detachment, -and some of the scouts, quietly entered the valley, but no Indians -were seen. A few new wigwams had been built on the south side near -the lower ford, to better guard the entrance as was supposed. Without -halting, except to glance at the vacant huts, the advance rode rapidly -on, following a trail up the south side, which our Pohonochee guide -informed the captain was a good trail. - -On entering the valley and seeing the deserted wigwams I reached the -conclusion that our approach had been heralded. As my military ardor -subsided, my enthusiastic love of the beautiful returned to me, and I -halted a moment to take a general view of the scenery; intending also -to direct the column up the south side. While waiting for Chandler, I -examined the huts, and found several bushels of scorched acorns that -had been divested of their covering, as if for transportation. I knew -that the natives had no more fondness for burnt acorns than Yankees -have for burnt beans, and the interpreter Sandino, who was with me at -this moment, muttered in Indian Spanish, “Yosemite very poor--no got -much eat; acorns, fire burn--pull ’em out.” In one of the huts we found -a young dog, a miserable cur that barked his affright at our approach, -and fled into the brush near by. I told Lt. Chandler of the directions -left for his guidance, and as he expressed his intention to bring up -the rear of the column into closer order, I received permission to move -slowly on with his advance, consisting of Firebaugh, Spencer, French, -Fisher, Stone, a few others and myself. We were soon overtaken by -Chandler, who had given his orders to the rear-guard. As we rode along, -I reported the conclusions of Sandino and my knowledge of the fact that -nearly all the acorns had been burnt. I also told him what Sandino -had previously said, that the Indians took the shells off the acorns -they carried over the mountains, and from this cause, thought the -hulled acorns found were designed for a distant transportation. Again -referring the matter to Sandino, who was called up for the purpose, -he said, “No fire when take off skin; no like ’em; Yosemite close by, -want ’em acorn.” Upon telling Chandler that Sandino’s opinion was that -the acorns found were saved from some of the burning supplies fired at -our first visit, and that the Yosemites were transporting them to some -mountain retreat, the Lieutenant could not credit it, and said that -“Sandino’s opinions are unreliable.” - -Sandino was not popular, either with our officers or with the “boys.” -Captain Boling doubted his integrity, while Chandler said he was a most -arrant coward and afraid of the wild Indians. Chandler was right; but, -nevertheless, Sandino told us many truths. At times his timidity and -superstition were very annoying; but if reproved, he became the more -confused, and said that many questions made his head ache; _a very -common answer to one in search of knowledge among Indians_. Sandino -had been sent along by the Major as our interpreter, but a Spanish -interpreter was necessary to make him of any use. As a scout he was -inferior--almost useless. We afterwards found that Sandino’s surmises -were true. It was evident that the fire had been extinguished at -some of the large heaps, and many acorns saved, though in a damaged -condition. - -As we rode on up the valley, I became more observant of the scenery -than watchful for signs, when suddenly my attention was attracted by -shadowy objects flitting past rocks and trees on the north side, some -distance above El Capitan. Halting, I caught a glimpse of Indians -as they passed an open space opposite to us. Seeing that they were -discovered, they made no further efforts to hide their movements, but -came out into open view, at long rifle range. There were five of them. -They saluted us with taunting gestures, and fearlessly kept pace with -us as we resumed our march. The river was here a foaming impassable -torrent. The warriors looked with great indifference on our repeated -efforts to discover a fording place. As we approached a stretch of -comparatively smooth water, I made known to Chandler my intention -of swimming the stream to capture them. His answer was: “Bully for -you, Doc; take ’em, if you can, alive, but take ’em _anyhow_.” I -started with Spencer, Firebaugh, French, young Stone and two others, -for a sloping bank where our animals would most willingly enter the -stream; but Stone spurred passed me as we reached the bank, and when -Firebaugh’s mulish mustang refused the water, though given the spur, -and all the other mules refused to leave the horse, Stone backed his -mule over the bank, and we swam our mules after the “boy leader” across -the Merced. - -[Illustration: - - HOUSEWORTH & CO. PHOTO. - -THE THREE BROTHERS. - -(3,850 feet in height.)] - -The Indians, alarmed by this unexpected movement, fled up the valley -at the top of their speed. By the time we had crossed, they had nearly -reached a bend in the river above on the north side. We followed -at our best gait, but found the trail obstructed by a mass of what -then appeared to be recently fallen rocks. Without hesitation, we -abandoned our mules, and continued the pursuit on foot, up to the rocky -spur known as the “Three Brothers,” where entering the Talus, they -disappeared. Find them, we could not. The obstructing rocks on the old -north side trail were known as “We-äck,” “The Rocks,” and understood -to mean the “fallen rocks,” because, according to traditions they -had fallen _upon_ the old trail. The modern trail for horses crossed -the stream a short distance below, where there was a very good ford -in a lower stage of water, but at this time, the early part of May, -the volume of water rushing down the Merced was astonishing. We had -crossed readily enough in the heat of excitement; but it was with -feelings of reluctance that we re-entered the cold water and swam our -mules back to where a few of our comrades had halted on the south side. - -Mr. Firebaugh, having failed to get his mustang to follow us, had run -him up on the south side as if to cut off the fugitives, and saw them -hide behind a ledge of rocks. - -When informed of the situation, Capt. Boling crossed to the north -side and came down to the ledge where the scouts were hidden; but the -Captain could scarcely at first credit Firebaugh’s statement, that he -had seen them climb up the cliff. Our Indian scouts were sent up to -hunt out the hidden warriors, and through the means of fair promises, -if they came down voluntarily, Captain Boling succeeded in bringing in -the five Indians. Three of the captives were known to us, being sons of -Ten-ie-ya, one of whom was afterwards killed; the other two were young -braves, the wife of one being a daughter of the old chief. The Indian -name for the three rocky peaks near which this capture was made was not -then known to any of our battalion, but from the strange coincidence -of three brothers being made prisoners so near them, we designated the -peaks as the “Three Brothers.” I soon learned that they were called by -the Indians “Kom-po-pai-zes,” from a fancied resemblance of the peaks -to the heads of frogs when sitting up _ready to leap_. A fanciful -interpretation has been given the Indian name as meaning “mountains -playing leap-frog,” but a literal translation is not desirable. - - They hear the plaintive bull-frog to his mistress trilling sweet; - They see the green-robed sirens plunge down in waters deep. - But leap these mountains may not; they watch, with clouded brow, - Return of young Ten-ie-ya--heard not his death’s pow-wow. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - - A General Scout--An Indian Trap--Flying Artillery--A Narrow Escape--A - Tragic Scene--Fortunes of War--A Scout’s Description--Recovery from a - Sudden Leap--Surrounded by Enemies. - - -While Captain Boling was engaged in capturing the Indians we had -“treed” on the north side of the valley, scouting parties were sent -out by Lieut. Chandler. They spread over the valley, and search was -made in every locality that was accessible. Discovering fresh signs -on a trail I had unsuccessfully followed on my first visit, I pursued -the traces up to a short distance below Mirror Lake. Being alone I -divided my attention between the wonders of the scenery and the tracks -I was following, when suddenly I was aroused by discovering a basket of -acorns lying by the trail. Seeing that it was a common carrying basket, -such as was generally used by the squaws in “packing,” I at first came -to the conclusion that it had been thrown off by some affrighted squaw -in her haste to escape on my approach. Observing another on a trail -leading toward the Talus, I felt confident that I had discovered the -key to the hiding-place of the Indians we were in search of. Securing -my mule with the “riata” I continued the search, and found several -baskets before reaching the walls of the cliff, up which, in a kind -of groove, the trail ascended. By this time I began to be suspicious, -and thought that there was too much method in this distribution of -acorns along the trail for frightened squaws to have made, and it -now occurred to me what Sandino had said of acorns being hulled for -transportation up the cliffs; and these _had not been hulled_! - -Before reaching the Talus, I observed that the foot-prints were large, -and had been made by the males, as the toes did not turn in, as was -usual with the squaws; and it now began to appear to me, that the -acorns were only left to lead us into some trap; for I was aware that -“warriors” seldom disgraced themselves by “packing,” like squaws. -Taking a look about me, I began to feel that I was venturing too -far; my ambitious desire for further investigation vanished, and I -hastened back down the trail. While descending, I met Lt. Gilbert of -C company, with a few men. They too had discovered baskets, dropped -by the “_scared Indians_,” and were rushing up in hot pursuit, nearly -_capturing_ me. I related my discoveries, and told the Lieutenant of -my suspicions, advising him not to be too hasty in following up the -“_lead_.” After I had pointed out some of the peculiarities of the -location above us, he said with a sigh of disappointment, “By George! -Doc. I believe you are right--you are more of an Indian than I am any -way; I reckon we had better report this to the Captain before we go -any further.” I replied, “I am now going in to report this strategy -to Captain Boling, for I believe he can make some flank movement and -secure the Indians, without our being caught in this trap.” But while -we were descending to the trail, I seriously thought and believed, that -Lt. Gilbert and his men as well as myself, had had a narrow escape. -The bit of history of the rear guard of Charlemagne being destroyed -by the Pyrenians flashed through my mind, and I could readily see how -destructive such an attack might become. - -After taking the precaution to secrete the baskets on the main trail, -Lt. Gilbert, with his scouts, continued his explorations in other -localities, saying as he left that he would warn all whom he might -see “not to get into the trap.” I mounted my mule and rode down the -valley in search of Captain Boling, and found him in an oak grove near -our old camp, opposite a cliff, now known as “Hammo” (the lost arrow). -I here learned the particulars of his successful capture of the five -scouts of Ten-ie-ya’s band, and at his request asked them, through -Sandino, who had come over with the “_kitchen mules_,” why they had so -exposed themselves to our view. They replied that Ten-ie-ya knew of our -approach before we reached the valley. That by his orders they were -sent to watch our movements and report to him. That they did not think -we could cross the Merced with our horses until we reached the upper -fords; and therefore, when discovered, did not fear. They said that -Ten-ie-ya would come in and “have a talk with the white chief when he -knows we are here.” - -After repeated questioning as to where their people were, and where the -old chief would be found if a messenger should be sent to him, they -gave us to understand that they were to meet Ten-ie-ya near To-co-ya, -at the same time pointing in the direction of the “North Dome.” Captain -Boling assured them that if Ten-ie-ya would come in with his people he -could do so with safety. That he desired to make peace with him, and -did not wish to injure any of them. The young brave was the principal -spokesman, and he replied: “Ten-ie-ya will come in when he hears what -has been said to us.” - -Having acquired all the information it was possible to get from -the Indians, Capt. Boling said that in the morning he would send a -messenger to the old chief and see if he would come in. When told -this the young “brave” appeared to be very anxious to be permitted to -go after him, saying: “He is there now,” pointing towards the “North -Dome,” “another day he will be on the ‘Skye Mountains,’ or anywhere,” -meaning that his movements were uncertain. - -Capt. Boling had so much confidence in his statements, that he decided -to send some of the scouts to the region of the North Dome for -Ten-ie-ya; but all efforts of our allies and of ourselves, failed to -obtain any further clue to Ten-ie-ya’s hiding-place, for the captives -said that they dare not disclose their signals or countersign, for -the penalty was death, and none other would be answered or understood -by their people. I here broke in upon the captain’s efforts to obtain -_useful knowledge_ from his prisoners, by telling him of the discovery -of baskets of acorns found on the trail; and gave him my reasons for -believing it to be a design to lead us into an ambush--that the Indians -were probably on the cliff above. I volunteered the suggestion that a -movement in that direction would surprise them while watching the trap -set for us. - -Captain Boling replied: “It is too late in the day for a job of that -kind; we will wait and see if Ten-ie-ya will come in. I have made up -my mind to send two of our prisoners after him, and keep the others as -hostages until he comes. To make a sure thing of this, Doctor, I want -you to take these two,” pointing to one of the sons and the son-in-law -of Ten-ie-ya, “and go with them to the place where they have said a -trail leads up the cliff to Ten-ie-ya’s hiding place. You will take -care that they are not molested by any of our boys while on this trip. -Take any one with you in camp, if you do not care to go alone.” - -Taking a small lunch to break my fast since the morning meal, I -concluded to make the trip on foot; my mule having been turned loose -with the herd. Arming myself, I started alone with the two prisoners -which Capt. Boling had consigned to my guardianship. I kept them ahead -of me on the trail, as I always did when traveling with any of that -race. We passed along the westerly base of the North Dome at a rapid -gait, without meeting any of my comrades, and had reached a short -turn in the trail around a point of rocks, when the Indians suddenly -sprang back, and jumped behind me. From their frightened manner, and -cry of terror, I was not apprehensive of any treachery on their part. -Involuntarily I cried out, “Hallo! what’s up now?” and stepped forward -to see what had so alarmed them. Before me, stood George Fisher with -his rifle leveled at us. I instantly said: “Hold on George! these -Indians are under my care!” He determinedly exclaimed without change of -position, “Get out of the way, Doctor, those Indians have got to die,” -Just behind Fisher was Sergeant Cameron, with a man on his shoulders. -As he hastily laid him on the ground, I was near enough to see that his -clothing was soiled and badly torn, and that his face, hands and feet -were covered with blood. His eyes were glazed and bloodshot, and it -was but too evident that he had been seriously injured. From the near -proximity of the basket trail, I instantly surmised they had been on -the cliff above. The scene was one I shall long remember. - -It seemed but a single motion for Cameron to deposit his burden and -level his rifle. He ordered me to stand aside if I valued my own -safety. I replied as quietly as I could, “Hold on, boys! Captain Boling -sent me to guard these Indians from harm, and I shall obey orders.” -I motioned the Indians to keep to my back or they would be killed. -Cameron shouted: “They have almost killed Spencer, and have got to -die.” As he attempted to get sight, he said: “Give way, Bunnell, I -don’t want to hurt you.” This I thought _very condescending_, and I -replied with emphasis: “These Indians are under my charge, and I shall -protect them. If you shoot you commit murder.” The whole transaction -thus far seemingly occupied but a moment’s time, when to the surprise -of us all, Spencer called my name. I moved forward a little, and said -to them, “Throw up your rifles and let me come into to see Spencer.” -“Come in! _you_ are safe,” replied Fisher--still watching the Indians -with a fierce determination in his manner. Spencer raised himself in a -sitting position, and at a glance seemed to take in the situation of -affairs, for he said: “Bunnell is right; boys, don’t shoot; mine is but -the fortune of war;” and telling Cameron to call me, he again seemed to -fall partly into stupor. As I again moved towards them with the Indians -behind me, they with some reluctance, put up their rifles. Fisher -turned his back to me as he said with sarcasm, “Come in with your -friends, Doctor, and thank Spencer for their safety.” They relieved -their excitement with volleys of imprecations. Cameron said that I -“was a ---- sight too high-toned to suit friends that had always been -willing to stand by me.” - -This occurrence did not destroy good feeling toward each other, for we -were all good friends after the excitement had passed over. - -I examined Spencer and found that, although no bones were broken, -he was seriously bruised and prostrated by the shock induced by his -injuries. Fisher started for camp to bring up a horse or mule to carry -Spencer in. I learned that they had fallen into the trap on the “basket -trail,” and that Spencer had been injured while ascending the cliff as -I had suspected. He had, unfortunately, been _trailed in_, as I had -been. The particulars Cameron related to me and in my hearing after we -had arrived in camp. As the Indians represented to me that the trail -they proposed to take up the cliff was but a little way up the north -branch, I concluded to go on with them, and then be back in time to -accompany Spencer into camp. Speaking some cheering words to Spencer -I turned to leave, when Cameron said to him: “You ain’t dead yet, my -boy.” Spencer held out his hand, and as he took it Cameron said, with -visible emotion, but emphatic declaration: “We will pay them back for -this if the chance ever comes; Doc. is decidedly too conscientious in -this affair.” I escorted the Indians some way above “Mirror Lake,” -where they left the trail and commenced to climb the cliff. - -On my return I found that Cameron had already started with Spencer; -I soon overtook them and relieved him of his burden, and from there -carried Spencer into camp. We found Fisher vainly trying to catch his -mule. The most of the horses were still out with the scouts, and all -animals in camp had been turned loose. Sergt. Cameron, while Fisher -was assisting me in the removal of Spencer’s clothing aid dressing -his wounds, had prepared a very comfortable bed, made of boughs, that -the kind-hearted boys thoughtfully brought in; and after he was made -comfortable and nourishment given him, the Sergeant related to Captain -Boling the details of their adventure, which were briefly as follows: -Cameron and Spencer while on their way back to camp discovered the -baskets on the trail. Feeling certain that they had discovered the -hiding-place of the Indians, as we had done, they concluded to make -a reconnoissance of the vicinity before making a report of their -discovery. Elated at their success, and unsuspicious of any unusual -danger, they followed the trail that wound up the cliff, along jutting -rocks that in places projected like cornices, until the converging -walls forced them to a steep acclivity grooved in the smooth-worn rock. -Not daunted by the difficult assent, they threw off their boots and -started up the slippery gutter, when suddenly a huge mass of granite -came thundering down towards them. But for a fortunate swell or -prominence just above they would both have been swept into eternity; -as it was, the huge rock passed over their heads; a fragment, however, -struck Spencer’s rifle from his hand and hurled him fifty feet or more -down the steep wall, where he lay, entirely senseless for a time, while -a shower of rocks and stones was passing over him, the shape of the -wall above sending them clear of his body. - -Cameron was in advance, and fortunately was able to reach the shelter -of a projecting rock. After the discharge, an Indian stretched himself -above a detached rock, from which he had been watching his supposed -victims. Cameron chanced to be looking that way, and instantly firing, -dropped his man. No doubt he was killed, for the quantity of blood -found afterward on the rock, was great. The echoing report of Cameron’s -rifle, brought back howls of rage from a number of rocks above, as if -they were alive with demons. Anticipating another discharge from their -battery, Cameron descended to the spot where Spencer had fallen, and -taking him in his arms, fled out of range. - -After supper, the explorers having all come in, the boys gathered -around the Sergeant and importuned him to give the history of his -adventures. After reflectively bringing up the scene to view, he began: -“We got into mighty close quarters! Come to think of it, I don’t see -how we happened to let ourselves be caught in that dead-fall. I reckon -we must have fooled ourselves some. The way of it was this. We went up -on the south side as far as we could ride, and after rummaging around -for a while, without finding anything, Spencer wanted to go up the -North Cañon and get a good look at that mountain with one side split -off; so I told the boys to look about for themselves, as there were no -Indians in the valley. Some of them went on up the South Cañon, and the -rest of us went over to the North Cañon. After crossing the upper ford, -Spencer and I concluded to walk up the cañon, so we sent our animals -down to graze with the herd. Spencer looked a good long while at that -split mountain, and called it a ‘half dome.’ I concluded he might -name it what he liked, if he would leave it and go to camp; for I was -getting tired and hungry and said so. Spencer said ‘All right, we’ll go -to camp.’ - -On our way down, as we passed that looking-glass pond, he wanted to -take one more look, and told me to go ahead and he’d soon overtake -me; but that I wouldn’t do, so he said: “No matter, then; I can come -up some other time.” As we came on down the trail below the pond, I -saw some acorns scattered by the side of the trail, and told Spencer -there were Indians not far off. After looking about for a while Spencer -found a basket nearly full behind some rocks, and in a little while -discovered a trail leading up towards the cliff. We followed this up a -piece, and soon found several baskets of acorns. I forgot about being -hungry, and after talking the matter over we decided to make a sort of -reconnoissance before we came in to make any report. Well, we started -on up among the rocks until we got to a mighty steep place, a kind -of gulch that now looked as if it had been scooped out for a stone -battery. The trail up it was as steep as the roof on a meeting-house, -and worn so slippery that we couldn’t get a foot-hold. I wanted to see -what there was above, and took off my boots and started up. Spencer did -the same and followed me. I had just got to the swell of the steepest -slope, where a crack runs across the face of the wall, and was looking -back to see if Spencer would make the riffle, when I heard a crash -above me, and saw a rock as big as a hogshead rolling down the cliff -toward us. I sprang on up behind a rock that happened to be in the -right place, for there was no time to hunt for any other shelter. - -I had barely reached cover when the bounding rock struck with a crash -by my side, and bounded clear over Spencer, who had run across the -crevice and was stooping down and steadying himself with his rifle. A -piece of the big rock that was shattered into fragments and thrown -in all directions, struck his rifle out of his hands, and sent him -whirling and clutching down a wall fifty feet. He lodged out of sight, -where in going up we had kicked off our leathers. I thought he was -killed, for he did not answer when I called, and I had no chance then -to go to him, for a tremendous shower of stones came rushing by me. I -expected he would be terribly mangled at first, but soon noticed that -the swell in the trail caused the rocks to bound clear over him onto -the rocks in the valley. I looked up to see where they came from just -as an Indian stuck his head above a rock. My rifle came up of its own -accord. It was a quick sight, but with me they are generally the best, -and as I fired that Indian jumped into the air with a yell and fell -back onto the ledge. He was hit, I know, and I reckon _he went west_. -Every rock above was soon a yelling as if alive. As I expected another -discharge from their stone artillery, I slid down the trail, picked up -Spencer, and “vamoosed the ranche,” just as they fired another shot -of rocks down after us. I did not stay to see where they struck after -I was out of range, for my rifle and Spencer took about all of my -attention until safely down over the rocks. While I was there resting -for a moment, Fisher came up the trail. He heard me fire and had heard -the rocks tumbling down the cliff. Thinking some one was in trouble, he -was going to find out who it was. - -“We concluded at first that Spencer was done for; for his heart beat -very slow and he was quite dumpish. We had just started for camp with -him, and met Bunnell going out with the two Indians. I reckon we would -have sent them on a trip down where it is warmer than up there on the -mountains, if Spencer hadn’t roused himself just then. He stopped -the game. He called for the Doctor; but Bunnell was as stubborn as -Firebaugh’s mustang and would not leave the Indians. We had to let -them pass, before he would take a look at Spencer. Doc. is generally -all right enough, but he was in poor business to-day. When I told him -it was his own messmate, he said it didn’t matter if it were his own -brother. If Captain Boling will make a shooting match and put up the -other three, I’ll give my horse for the first three shots. Shooting -will be cheap after that.” - -I have given the substance only of Sergt. Cameron’s talk to the group -around him, though but poorly imitating his style, in order to show the -feeling that was aroused by Spencer’s misfortune. Spencer’s uniformly -quiet and gentlemanly manners, made no enemies among rough comrades, -who admired the courageous hardihood of “the little fellow,” and -respected him as a man. Many expressions of sympathy were given by the -scouts who gathered around our tent, on learning of his injury. For -some days after the event, he could scarcely be recognized, his face -was so swollen and discolored. But what Spencer seemed most to regret, -was the injury to his feet and knees, which had been cruelly rasped by -the coarse granite in his descent. - -The injury from this cause was so great, that he was unable to make -those explorations that footmen alone could accomplish. He was an -enthusiastic lover of nature, an accomplished scholar and man of the -world. Having spent five years in France and Germany in the study of -modern languages, after having acquired a high standing here in Latin -and Greek. - -We thought him peculiarly gifted, and hoped for something from his -pen descriptive of the Yosemite that would endure; but he could never -be induced to make any effort to describe any feature of the valley, -saying: “That fools only rush in where wise men stand in awe.” We were -bed-fellows and friends, and from this cause chiefly, perhaps, all the -incidents of his accident were strongly impressed on my memory. After -his full recovery his feet remained tender for a long time, and he made -but one extended exploration after his accident while in the battalion. - -During the camp discussion regarding my course in saving the two -captives, Captain Boling and myself were amused listeners. No great -pains were taken as a rule to hide one’s light under a bushel, and we -were sitting not far off. The Captain said that he now comprehended -the extreme anxiety of the captives to see Ten-ie-ya, as doubtless -they knew of his intentions to roll rocks down on any who attempted to -follow up that trail; and probably supposed we would kill them if any -of us were killed. As he left our tent he remarked: “These hostages -will have to stay in camp. They will not be safe outside of it, if some -of the boys chance to get their eyes on them.” - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - - Camp Amusements--A Lost Arrow--Escape of a Prisoner--Escape of - Another--Shooting of the Third--Indian Diplomacy--Taking His - Own Medicine--Ten-ie-ya Captured--Grief over the Death of His - Son--Appetite under Adverse Circumstances--Poetry Dispelled--Really a - Dirty Indian. - - -Although our camp was undisturbed during the night, no doubt we were -watched from the adjacent cliffs, as in fact all our movements were. -The captives silently occupied the places by the camp fire. They -were aware of Spencer’s mishap, and probably expected their lives -might be forfeited; for they could see but little sympathy in the -countenances of those about them. The reckless demonstrations of the -more frolicksome boys were watched with anxious uncertainty. The sombre -expressions and _energetic_ remarks of the sympathizers of Spencer -induced Captain Boling to have a special guard detailed from those -who were not supposed to be prejudiced against the Indians, as it was -deemed all-important to the success of the campaign that Ten-ie-ya -should be conciliated or captured; therefore, this detail was designed -as much for the protection of the hostages as to prevent their escape. -The messengers had assured the Captain that Ten-ie-ya would be in -before noon, but the hostages told Sandino that possibly the messengers -might not find him near To-co-ya, where they expected to meet him, -as he might go a long distance away into the mountains before they -would again see him. They evidently supposed that the chief, like -themselves, had become alarmed at the failure of his plan to draw us -into ambush, and had fled farther into the Sierras; or else doubted -his coming at all, and wished to encourage the Captain to hope for the -coming of Ten-ie-ya that their own chances of escape might be improved. - -Sandino professed to believe their statement, telling me that -they--the five prisoners--expected to have trailed us up to the scene -of Spencer’s disaster; failing in which--owing to our having forced -them to hide near the “Frog Mountains”--they still expected to meet -him on the cliff where the rocks had been rolled down, and not at -To-co-ya. In this conversation, the fact appeared--derived as he said -indirectly from conversations with the prisoners--that there were -projecting ledges and slopes extending along the cliff on the east -side of Le-hamite to To-co-ya, where Indians could pass and re-pass, -undiscovered, and all of our movements could be watched. The substance -of this communication I gave to Captain Boling, but it was discredited -as an impossibility; and he expressed the belief that the old chief -would make his appearance by the hour agreed upon with his messengers, -designated by their pointing to where the sun would be on his arrival -in camp. Accordingly the Captain gave orders that no scouts would be -sent out until after that time. Permission, however, was given to those -who desired to leave camp for their own pleasure or diversion. - -A few took advantage of this opportunity and made excursions up the -North Cañon to the “basket trail,” with a view of examining that -locality, and at the same time indulging their curiosity to see the -place where Cameron and Spencer had been trailed in and entrapped by -the Indians. Most of the command preferred to remain in camp to repair -damages, rest, and to amuse themselves in a general way. Among the -recreations indulged in, was shooting at a target with the bows and -arrows taken from the captured Indians. The bow and arrows of the -young brave were superior to those of the others, both in material -and workmanship. Out of curiosity some of the boys induced him to -give a specimen of his skill. His shots were really commendable. The -readiness with which he handled his weapons excited the admiration -of the lookers on. He, with apparent ease, flexed a bow which many -of our men could not bend without great effort, and whose shots were -as liable to endanger the camp as to hit the target. This trial of -skill was witnessed by Captain Boling and permitted, as no trouble was -anticipated from it. - -After this exercise had ceased to be amusing, and the most of those in -camp had their attention engaged in other matters, the guard, out of -curiosity and for pastime, put up the target at long range. To continue -the sport it was necessary to bring in the arrows used, and as it -was difficult to find them, an Indian was taken along to aid in the -search. The young brave made a more extended shot than all others. With -great earnestness he watched the arrow, and started with one of the -guard, who was unarmed, to find it. While pretending to hunt for the -“lost arrow,” he made a dash from the guard toward “Indian Cañon,” and -darted into the rocky Talus, which here encroached upon the valley. The -guard on duty hearing the alarm of his comrade and seeing the Indian -at full speed, fired at him, but without effect, as the intervening -rocks and the zig-zag course he was running, made the shot a difficult -one, without danger of hitting his comrade, who was following in close -pursuit. - -This aggravating incident greatly annoyed Capt. Boling, who was -peculiarly sensitive on the subject of escaped prisoners. The verdant -guard was reprimanded in terms more expressive than polite; and -relieved from duty. The remaining Indians were then transferred to the -special care of Lt. Chandler, who was told by Capt. Boling to “keep -them secure if it took the whole command to do-it.” The Indians were -secured by being tied back to back, with a “riata” or picket rope, -and then fastened to an oak tree in the middle of the camp, and the -guard--a new one--stationed where they could constantly watch. The -morning passed, and the hour of ten arrived, without Ten-ie-ya. Capt. -Boling then sent out Sandino and the scouts to hunt for him, and if -found, to notify him that he was expected. Sandino soon came back, and -reported that he had seen Ten-ie-ya and talked with him; but that he -was unable to reach him from below, on account of the steepness of the -ledge. Sandino reported that Ten-ie-ya was unwilling to come in. That -he expressed a determination not to go to the Fresno. He would make -peace with the white chief if he would be allowed to remain in his own -territory. Neither he nor his people would go to the valley while the -white men were there. They would stay on the mountains or go to the -Monos. - -When this was communicated to Capt. Boling, he gave orders for a select -number of scouts to make an effort to bring in the old malcontent, -_alive if possible_. Lt. Chandler, therefore, with a few Noot-chü -and Po-ho-no-chee scouts, to climb above the projecting ledge, and a -few of our men to cut off retreat, started up the Ten-ie-ya branch, -led by Sandino as guide. After passing the “Royal Arches,” Sandino -let Chandler understand that he and his scouts had best go up by the -Wai-ack or Mirror Lake trail, in order to cut off Ten-ie-ya’s retreat; -while he went back to the rock he pointed out as the place where he -had seen and talked with Ten-ie-ya; and which commanded a view of our -camp. This was distasteful to Chandler; but after a moment’s reflection -said: “Let the converted knave go back to camp; I’ll act without him, -and catch the old chief if he is on the mountain, and that without -resorting to Indian treachery.” - -While in camp Sandino had seemed to convey some message to the -hostages, and when asked the purport of it had answered evasively. -This had prejudiced Chandler, but it had not surprised me, nor did it -appear inconsistent with Sandino’s loyalty to Captain Boling; but the -Indian was unpopular. As to his code of honor and his morality, it was -about what should have been expected of one in his position, and as a -frequent interpreter of his interpretations and sayings, I finally told -the Captain and Chandler that it would be best to take Sandino for what -he might be worth; as continued doubt of him could not be disguised, -and would tend to make a knave or fool of him. On one occasion, he was -so alarmed by some cross looks and words given him, that he fell upon -his knees and begged for his life, thinking, as he said afterward, that -he was to be killed. - -During the night, and most of the time during the day, I was engaged in -attendance on Spencer. Doctor Black understood it to be Spencer’s wish -that I should treat him. I gave but little attention to other matters, -although I could see from our tent everything that was going on in -camp. Not long after the departure of Chandler and his scouts, as I was -about leaving camp in search of balsam of fir and other medicinals, I -observed one of the guard watching the prisoners with a pleased and -self-satisfied expression. As I glanced toward the Indians I saw that -they were endeavoring to untie each other, and said to two of the -detail as I passed them, “That ought to be reported to the officer of -the guard. They should be separated, and not allowed to tempt their -fate.” I was told that it was “already known to the officers.” I was -then asked if I was on guard duty. The significance of this I was fully -able to interpret, and passed on to the vicinity of “The High Falls.” - -On my return an hour afterwards, I noticed when nearing camp, that the -Indians were gone from the tree to which they were tied when I left. -Supposing that they had probably been removed for greater security, I -gave it no further thought until, without any intimation of what had -occurred during my short absence, I saw before me the dead body of old -Ten-ie-ya’s youngest son. The warm blood still oozing from a wound in -his back. He was lying just outside of our camp, within pistol range of -the tree to which he had been tied. - -I now comprehended the action of the guard. I learned that the other -Indian had been fired at, but had succeeded in making his escape -over the same ground and into the cañon where the other brave had -disappeared. I found on expressing my unqualified condemnation of -this cowardly act, that I was not the only one to denounce it. It was -a cause of regret to nearly the whole command. Instead of the praise -expected by the guard for the dastardly manner in which the young -Indian was killed, they were told by Captain Boling that they had -committed murder. Sergeant Cameron was no lover of Indians, but for -this act his boiling wrath could hardly find vent, even when aided by -some red hot expressions. I learned, to my extreme mortification, that -no report had been made to any of the officers. The Indians had been -permitted to untie themselves, and an opportunity had been given them -to attempt to escape in order to fire upon them, expecting to kill them -both; and only that a bullet-pouch had been hung upon the muzzle of one -of the guard’s rifles while leaning against a tree (for neither were -on duty at the moment), no doubt both of the captives would have been -killed. - -[Illustration: YOSEMITE FALLS. - -(2,634 feet in height.)] - -Upon investigation, it was found that the fatal shot had been fired -by a young man who had been led by an old Texan sinner to think that -killing Indians or Mexicans was a duty; and surprised at Captain -Boling’s view of his conduct, declared with an injured air, that -he “would not kill another Indian if the woods were full of them.” -Although no punishment was ever inflicted upon the perpetrators of -the act, they were both soon sent to coventry, and feeling their -disgrace, were allowed to do duty with the pack-train. Captain Boling -had, before the occurrence of this incident, decided to establish his -permanent camp on the south side of the Merced. The location selected -was near the bank of the river, in full view of, and nearly opposite, -“The Fall.” This camp was head-quarters during our stay in the valley, -which was extended to a much longer time than we had anticipated. Owing -to several mountain storms, our stay was prolonged over a month. The -bottoms, or meadow land, afforded good grazing for our animals, and we -were there more conveniently reached by our couriers and supply-trains -from the Fresno. - -From this point our excursions were made. All Indians attach great -importance to securing the bodies of their dead for appropriate -ceremonials, which with these was “cremation.” They with others of -the mountain tribes in this part of California, practiced the burning -of their dead in accordance with their belief in a future state of -existence, which was that if the body was burned, the spirit was -released and went to “the happy land in the west.” If this ceremony -was omitted, the spirit haunted the vicinity, to the annoyance of the -friends as well as the enemies of the deceased. Knowing this, Captain -Boling felt a desire to make some atonement for the unfortunate killing -of the son of Ten-ie-ya, the chief of the tribe with whom he was -endeavoring to “make peace,” and therefore made his arrangements to -take advantage of this custom to propitiate the Indians by giving them -an opportunity to remove the body of the youth. Accordingly, the order -was at once given to break camp. - -While the pack animals were being loaded, Lt. Chandler with his party -brought in Ten-ie-ya. The Indian scouts, who were first sent out with -Sandino and who knew where the talk with the chief had been held, -passed on in advance and saw that he was still at his perch, watching -the movements below him. Some of those out on leave discovered him -also, seated on a ledge that appeared only accessible from above. The -Pohonochee scouts, thinking to capture him by cutting off his retreat, -followed an upper trail and reached the summit of the wall, while a -few of Chandler’s men, who were apprized of the situation by some -of the pleasure-seekers whom they met, took a lower trail, and thus -were in advance of the Indian scouts when Ten-ie-ya’s retreat was -reached. To their disappointment, the old chief could not be found, -though at intervals fresh signs and heaps of stones were seen along the -south-western slope of the mountain. - -The sequel to the disappearance of Ten-ie-ya, as explained by Sandino, -was simply as follows: When sent back by Chandler, Sandino resolved -to make another effort to induce Ten-ie-ya to come in, lest Chandler -should kill him if found. Accordingly he again climbed to the foot of -the old chief’s perch, and was talking with him, when some small loose -stones came rolling down towards them. Seeing that his retreat above -had been cut off, Ten-ie-ya at first ran along westerly, on the slope -of the mountain towards Indian Cañon; but finding that he was cut off -in that direction also, by the Neut-chü and Po-ho-no-chee scouts, he -turned and came down a trail through an oak tree-top to the valley, -which Sandino had by this time reached, and where he had been attracted -by the noise made in the pursuit. Lt. Chandler had not climbed up the -trail, and hearing Sandino’s cry for help, and the noise above him, he -was able to reach the place when Ten-ie-ya descended, in time to secure -him. Ten-ie-ya said the men above him were rolling stones down, and -he did not like to go up, as they broke and flew everywhere; for that -reason he came down. - -Ten-ie-ya accompanied his captors without making any resistance, -although he strongly censured the Indians for being instrumental in -his capture. They did not reach the valley in time to take part in the -capture, but as Ten-ie-ya had said: “It was their cunning that had -discovered the way to his hiding place.” - -None of the party of explorers or those under Chandler were aware of -the event that had occurred during their absence. As Ten-ie-ya walked -toward the camp, proudly conscious of being an object of attention from -us, his eye fell upon the dead body of his favorite son, which still -lay where he had fallen, without having been disturbed. He halted for a -moment, without visible emotion, except a slight quivering of his lips. -As he raised his head, the index to his feelings was exhibited in the -glaring expression of deadly hate with which he gazed at Capt. Boling, -and cast his eyes over the camp as if in search of the remains of the -other son, the fellow captive of the one before him. Captain Boling -expressed his regret of the occurrence, and had the circumstances -explained to him, but not a single word would he utter in reply; not a -sound escaped his compressed lips. He passively accompanied us to our -camp on the south side of the river. It was evident that every movement -of ours was closely scrutinized. Sandino was instructed to notify the -chief that the body could be taken away. This permission was also -received in silence. - -Upon riding over to the camp ground the next morning, it was found that -the body had been carried up or secreted in Indian Cañon; as all of -the tracks led that way. This ravine became known to _us_ as “Indian -Cañon,” though called by the Indians “Le-Hamite,” “the arrow wood.” It -was also known to them by the name of “Scho-tal-lo-wi,” meaning the -way to “_Fall Creek_.” The rocks near which we were encamped, between -“Indian Cañon” and “The Falls,” were now called by the Po-ho-no-chee -scouts who were with us, “Hammo” or “Ummo” “The Lost Arrow,” in -commemoration of the event. On the morning following the capture of -Ten-ie-ya, Capt. Boling tried to have a talk with him; but he would not -reply to a question asked through the interpreter; neither would he -converse with Sandino or the Indians with us. He maintained this moody -silence and extreme taciturnity for several days afterwards. - -Finding that nothing could be accomplished through the old chief, -Captain Boling gave orders to re-commence our search for his people. -Scouting parties were started on foot to explore as far as was -practicable on account of the snow. Although it was now May, the snow -prevented a very extended search in the higher Sierras. On the first -day out these parties found that, although they had made a faithful and -active search, they had not performed half they had planned to do when -starting. Distances were invariably under-estimated. This we afterward -found was the case in all of our excursions in the mountains, where we -estimated distance by the eye; and calling attention to the phenomena, -I tried to have the principle applied to heights as well. The height of -the mountainous cliffs, and the clear atmosphere made objects appear -near, but the time taken to reach them convinced us that our eyes had -deceived us in our judgment of distance. To avoid the severe labor -that was imposed upon us by carrying our provisions and blankets, an -attempt was made to use pack-mules, but the circuitous route we were -compelled to take consumed too much time; besides the ground we were -desirous of going over was either too soft and yielding, or too rocky -and precipitous. We were compelled to leave the mules and continue our -explorations on foot. Later in the season there would have been no -difficulty in exploring the mountains on horse-back, if certain well -established routes and passes were kept in view; but aside from these -our Indian guides could give us little or no information. This we -accounted for upon the theory that, as there was no game of consequence -in the higher Sierras, and the cold was great as compared with the -lower altitudes, the Indians knowledge of the “Higher Sierras” was -only acquired while passing over them, or while concealed in them from -the pursuit of their enemies. All scouting parties were, therefore, -principally dependent upon their own resources, and took with them -a supply of food and their blankets for a bivouac. In this way much -time and fatigue of travel was saved. Some were more adventurous -than others in their explorations. These, on returning from a scout -of one or more days out, would come in ragged and foot-sore, and -report with enthusiasm their adventures, and the wonders they had -seen. Their descriptions around the camp fire at night were at first -quite exciting; but a few nights’ experience in the vicinity of the -snow-line, without finding Indians, soon cooled down the ardor of all -but a very few, who, from their persistent wandering explorations, were -considered somewhat eccentric. - -Through our Indian scouts, we learned that some of the Yosemites had -gone to the Tuolumne. These were Tuolumne Indians who had intermarried -with the Yosemites, and had been considered as a part of Ten-ie-ya’s -band. Taking their women and children, they returned to the Tuolumne -tribe as soon as it was known that Ten-ie-ya had been captured; fearing -he would again promise to take his band to the Fresno. Our orders -prohibited us from disturbing the Tuolumne Indians; we therefore -permitted them to return to their allegiance without attempting to -follow them. - -Ten-ie-ya was treated with kindness, and as his sorrow for the loss of -his son seemed to abate, he promised to call in some of his people, and -abide by their decision, when they had heard the statements of Capt. -Boling. At night he would call as if to some one afar off. He said his -people were not far from our camp and could hear his voice. We never -heard a reply, although the calls were continued by order of Capt. -Boling for many nights. - -Although he was closely watched by the camp guard, he made an attempt -to escape while the guard’s back was momentarily turned upon him. -Sergt. Cameron, who had especial charge of him at the time, saw his -movement, and as he rushed from his keeper, Cameron dashed after and -caught him before he was able to plunge into and swim the river. - -As Ten-ie-ya was brought into the presence of Capt. Boling by Sergt. -Cameron, after this attempt to escape, he supposed that he would now he -condemned to be shot. With mingled fear of the uncertainty of his life -being spared, and his furious passion at being foiled in his attempt -to regain his liberty, he forgot his usual reserve and shrewdness. His -grief for the loss of his son and the hatred he entertained toward -Capt. Boling, who he considered as responsible for his death, was -uppermost in his thoughts, and without any of his taciturn, diplomatic -style he burst forth in lamentations and denunciations, given in a loud -voice and in a style of language and manner of delivery which took -us all by surprise. In his excitement, he made a correct use of many -Spanish words, showing that he was more familiar with them than he had -ever admitted even to Sandino; but the more emphatic expressions were -such as may often be heard used by the muleteers of Mexico and South -America, but are not found in the Lexicons. As he approached Capt. -Boling, he began in a highly excited tone: “_Kill me_, sir Captain! -Yes, _kill me_, as you killed my son; as you would kill my people if -they were to come to you! You would kill all my race if you had the -power. Yes, sir, American, you can now tell your warriors to kill the -old chief; you have made me sorrowful, my life dark; you killed the -child of my heart, why not kill the father? But wait a little; when I -am dead I will call to my people to come to you, I will call louder -than you have had me call; that they shall hear me in their sleep, -and come to avenge the death of their chief and his son. Yes, sir, -American, my spirit will make trouble for you and your people, as you -have caused trouble to me and my people. With the wizards, I will -follow the white men and make them fear me.” He here aroused himself -to a sublime frenzy, and completed his rhapsody by saying: “You may -kill me, sir, Captain, but you shall not live in peace. I will follow -in your foot-steps, I will not leave my home, but be with the spirits -among the rocks, the water-falls, in the rivers and in the winds; -wheresoever you go I will be with you. You will not see me, but you -will fear the spirit of the old chief, and grow cold.[13] The great -spirits have spoken! I am done.” - -Captain Boling allowed the old orator to finish his talk without -interruption. Although he did not fully understand him, he was amused -at his earnest style and impetuous gestures. On hearing it interpreted, -he humorously replied: “I comprehended the most of what he said. The -old chief has improved. If he was only reliable he would make a better -interpreter than Sandino. As for speech-making, Doc., I throw up. The -old Pow-wow can beat me all hollow.” Ten-ie-ya earnestly watched the -countenance of the good natured Captain, as if to learn his decision in -the matter. The Captain observing him, quietly said: “Sergeant Cameron! -the old sachem looks hungry, and as it is now about supper time, you -had better give him an extra ration or two, and then see that he is so -secured that he will not have a chance to escape from us again.” - -I watched the old incorrigible while he was delivering this eloquent -harangue (which, of course, is necessarily a free translation) with -considerable curiosity. Under the excitement of the moment he appeared -many years younger. With his vigorous old age he displayed a _latent_ -power which was before unknown to us. I began to feel a sort of -veneration for him. My sympathies had before been aroused for his -sorrow, and I now began to have almost a genuine respect for him; -but as I passed him half an hour afterwards, the poetry of his life -appeared changed. He was regaling himself on fat pork and beans from -a wooden dish which had been brought to him by order of Cameron. This -he seemed to enjoy with an appetite of a hungry animal. His guard had -provided his wooden bowl and ladle by chipping them out of an alder -tree, but failing to finish them smoothly, they could not be _properly_ -washed; but this fact seemed not to disturb his relish for the food. -As I looked at his enjoyment of the loaded dish, I now saw only a -dirty old Indian. The spiritual man had disappeared. I addressed him -in Spanish, but not a word of reply; instead he pointed to his ear, -thereby indicating that he was deaf to the language. Afterwards he even -repudiated his “_Medicineship_.” - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - - Bears and Other Game--Sickness of Captain Boling--Convalescence - and Determination--A Guess at Heights--A Tired Doctor and a - Used-up Captain--Surprising an Indian--Know-nothingness, or Native - Americanism--A Clue and Discovery--A Short-cut to Camp, but an - Unpopular Route. - - -Considerable hilarity has been exhibited by modern visitors when told -that the Yosemite and its environs were once the favorite resort of -the grizzly bear. After these visitors have returned to New York or -Boston, they tell the public not to be afraid of bears, as they were -quite harmless; rather inclined to become domestic, etc. That is well -enough now, perhaps, although grizzlies may yet be found; but at the -date of the discovery; their trails were as large and numerous, almost, -as cow-paths in a western settlement. Several bears were seen by us, -and one was killed. The Yo-sem-i-tes used to capture these monsters -by lying in wait for them on some rock or in some tree that commanded -their thoroughfare, and after the bear had been wounded, all the dogs -in the village were turned loose upon him. After being brought to bay, -he was dispatched with arrows or the spear. A medium sized terrier -or two will so annoy a large grizzly, keeping out of his way in the -meantime, that he is apt to become stubborn and stand his ground. - -In such cases, there is less danger to the hunter. I have known of two -being killed in this way at short range. The approach of the hunter -was disregarded by the bear. Their hams had been so bitten by the -dogs that they dared not run, for fear of a fresh attack. I killed a -large one as he came out of the Merced river, a little above where -the town of Merced has since been built, and the same day, being in -a whale-boat, I had to back from an old she-bear and her two cubs, -encountered in a short turn of the river. I tried to kill these also, -but my rifle had got soaked in the rain that was pouring at the time; -as for the pistol shots, fired by some of the oarsmen, they only seemed -to increase her speed, and that of her cubs, as they reached the shore -and plunged through the willows. I had, previous to the killing of -the grizzly, killed a large black bear with a rifle of small calibre, -and gaining confidence, I attacked the grizzly, and was fortunate in -cutting a renal-artery, from which the bear soon bled to death; but -upon viewing the huge monster, I fully realized the folly of an open -attack upon this kind of game, and ever afterwards, so far as I could, -when alone, avoided their noted haunts. With all my caution and dread -of an unexpected encounter with them, I met several face to face during -mountain explorations; but invariably, they seemed as anxious to get -away from me as I was that they should do so. Once while manœuvering to -get a shot at a deer, a grizzly came out in full view but a few yards -in advance of me. I was tempted to give him a shot, but as I had no -refuge of dog or tree, if I made a poor shot, and knowing that I was -not seen by the bear, I did not molest him, but felt relieved as he -entered a chinquepin thicket, and if there had been _fifty of them_, no -doubt they might have all gone without my _saying a word_. - -I have seen a good deal of nonsense in print about bears, but will -venture to give these incidents. Joel H. Brooks and John Kenzie, -ex-members of “The Battalion,” were the least susceptible to fear -of them, of any persons I ever knew. Their skill as marksmen, was -something wonderful. They used to go through a drill on foot, firing -at some imaginary grizzly, then with a representative shot, the bear -was wounded, and pursuing them; they would turn and flee, loading their -rifles as they ran, and then turn and fire with deliberation at the -imaginary bear in pursuit. - -This theory of bear hunting, they determined to put into practice, and -after the close of the Indian war, and the disbanding of the battalion, -they established themselves in a camp near the Tehon Pass, a locality -even more famous for bears than the Yosemite. They were successful, -killed a number, and were daily acquiring more confidence in the -practicability of their theory and plans of attack; when one day, while -Kenzie was out hunting by himself, he unexpectedly met a huge grizzly -face to face; both were for a moment startled. - -Contrary to the usual, and almost invariable, habit of the bear when -surprised or about to attack, he did not rise upon his hind feet; but -instead of affording Kenzie the advantage of the usual opportunity -to aim at the small, light-colored spot on his neck, which, if -centered, is instant death to the animal, the bear made a direct dash -for the hunter. Seeing his peril, Kenzie at once fired with all the -deliberation the urgency of the occasion would permit. The shot proved -a fatal one, but before Kenzie could avoid the furious charge of the -animal, he was fatally injured by blows from the terrible monster. His -bowels were literally torn out; he was unfortunate in being tripped -by the tangled brush, or he might have escaped, as the bear fell dead -with his first charge, Kenzie succeeded in dragging himself to their -camp. He described the locality of the adventure, and requested Brooks -to go and bring in the liver of the bear. He said it would afford him -some consolation to eat more of the bear than the bear had been able -to eat of him. Brooks brought in and cooked some of the liver, fully -gratifying Kenzie’s whim; but it was the hunter’s last poor triumph--he -died soon after. Brooks swore off from this method of hunting, at least -for a season, and accepted a position offered him at the Indian Agency. - -Another member of our battalion killed a grizzly that for a time -made him quite famous as a bear-fighter. As this man was an Indian, -an attempt has been made to weave the incident into a legend, giving -the honor of the combat to one of the Yosemites. The truth is, that -a full-blooded Cherokee, known as “Cherokee Bob,” or Robert Brown, -wounded a grizzly, and to keep the bear from entering a thicket, set -his dog on the game. While “Bob” was re-loading his rifle, and before -he could get the cap on, the bear, disregarding the dog, charged upon -Bob, and bore him to the ground. The dog instantly attacked the bear, -biting his hams most furiously. The grizzly turned from Brown and -caught the dog with his paw, holding him as a cat would hold a mouse. -By this means Bob was released, and but slightly bruised. In an instant -he drew his hunting knife and plunged it to the heart of the bear, and -ended the contest. The dog was seriously injured, but Bob carried him -in his arms to camp, and attended his wounds as he would a comrade’s -or as he might have done his own. As “Cherokee Bob’s” bear fight was a -reality known to his comrades, I have noticed it here. - -The various routes to the Yosemite are now so constantly traveled that -bears will rarely be seen. They possess a very keen scent, and will -avoid all thoroughfares traveled by man, unless very hungry; they are -compelled to search for food. Strange as it may appear to some, the -ferocious grizzly can be more reliably tamed and domesticated than -the black bear. A tame grizzly at Monterey, in 1849, was allowed the -freedom of the city. Capt. Chas. M. Webber, the original proprietor -of the site of Stockton, had two that were kept chained. They became -very tame. One of these, especially tame, would get loose from time to -time and roam at will over the city. The new inhabitants of Stockton -seemed not to be inspired by that faith in his docility and uprightness -of character that possessed the owner, for they found him ravenously -devouring a barrel of sugar that belonged to one of the merchants, -and refused to give up any portion of it. This offended the grocer, -and he sent word to Mr. Webber to come and remove his truant thief. -The Captain came, paid for the damaged sugar, and giving him, like a -spoiled child, some of the sweets he had confiscated to induce him to -follow, led the bear home. But bruin remembered his successful foray, -and breaking his chain again and again, and always returning to the -merchant’s premises for sugar, Mr. Webber rid himself and the community -of the annoyance by disposing of his grizzlies. - -During a hunt in company with Col. Byron Cole, Messrs. Kent, Long and -McBrien of San Francisco, I caught a good sized cub, and Mr. Long, with -a terrier dog, caught another; the mother of which was killed by the -unerring aim of McBrien. These cubs were taken by Cole and McBrien to -San Francisco on their return, and sent to New York. I was told that -they became very tame. I hope they did, for the comfort and security -of their keepers; for in my first efforts to tame a grizzly, I became -somewhat prejudiced against bear training as an occupation. Not long -after my experience, I heard of poor Lola Montez being bitten by one -she was training at Grass Valley for exhibition in Europe; and I now -lost all faith in their reported docility and domestic inclinations. -The California lion, like the wolf, is a coward, and deserves but -little notice. Among the visitors to the Yosemite, some will probably -be interested in knowing where to find the game: fish, birds and -animals, that may yet remain to gratify the sportsmen’s love of the rod -and the chase. Most of the game has been killed or driven off by the -approach of civilization. Deer and occasionally a grizzly, cinnamon or -black bear may be found on the slopes of the Tuolumne, Merced, Fresno -and San Joaquin, and on all the rivers and mountains south of these -streams. The cinnamon bear of California is much larger than the common -brown bear of the Rocky Mountains. - -The _blue_ black-tailed deer of California are distinct from the black -tuft-tailed deer of the eastern ranges; a very marked difference will -be observed in their horns and ears. This distinction has been noticed -by naturalists; but the species are often confounded in newspaper -correspondence. The habits of the California deer are more goat-like; -they are wilder, and more easily startled than the “mule-eared” deer -of the Rockies, and when alarmed, they move with the celerity of the -white-tailed Virginia deer. The bare, tuft-tailed and big-eared Rocky -Mountain deer, seem but little alarmed by the report of a gun; and -their curiosity is nearly equal to that of the antelope. - -The California deer are still abundant upon the spurs of the Sierras -during their migrations to and from the foot-hills. These migrations -occur during the Autumn and Spring. As the rainy season sets in, they -leave the higher mountains for the foot-hills and plains, keeping -near the snow line, and as the Spring advances, they follow back the -receding snow to the high Sierras and the Eastern Slope, but seldom or -never descend to the plain below. On account of these migratory habits, -they will most likely endure the assaults of the sportsmen. The haunts -of the grizzly are the same as those of the deer, for they alike prefer -the bushy coverts to the more open ground, except when feeding. The -deer prefer as food the foliage of shrubs and weeds to the richest -grasses, and the bear prefers clover, roots, ants and reptiles; but -both fatten principally on acorns, wild rye and wild oats. - -California grouse are found in the vicinity of the Yosemite. During -the months of July and August they were formerly found quite numerous -concealed in the grass and sedges of the valley and the little -Yosemite; but as they are much wilder than the prairie chicken, they -shun the haunts of man, and are now only found numerous in mid-summer -upon or bordering on the mountain meadows and in the timber, among the -pine forests, where they feed upon the pine seeds and mistletoe, which -also afford them ample concealment. Their ventriloquial powers are -such that while gobbling their discordant notes, they are likely to -deceive the most experienced ear. It is almost impossible to feel quite -sure as to which particular tree the grouse is in without seeing it. -He seems to throw his voice about, now to this tree and now to that, -concealing himself the while until the inexperienced hunter is deluded -into the belief that the trees are full of grouse, when probably there -is but one making all the noise. His attention having been diverted, -the hunter is left in doubt from sheer conflicting sounds as to which -particular tree he saw a bird alight in. It is generally pretty sure to -“_fetch the bird_,” if you shoot into the bunch of mistletoe into which -you _supposed_ you saw the grouse alight. - -Beside the mountain grouse and mountain quail, among the most beautiful -of birds, that afford the sportsman a diversity of sport, an occasional -flock of pigeons, of much larger size than those of the Atlantic -States, will attract attention; though I have never seen them in very -large flocks. In most of the mountain streams, and their branches, -brook trout are quite abundant. They are not, however, so ravenously -accommodating, as to bite just when they are wanted. I learned from -the Indians that they would bite best in foaming water, when they -were unable to see the angler, or the bait distinctly; their curiosity -stimulating their appetites. It is important that the trout do not see -the angler, and when very wary, the rod even should not be conspicuous. -Below the cañon of the Yosemite, young salmon were once abundant. The -Indians used to catch fish in weirs made of brush and stones; but -during the extensive mining operations on the Merced and other rivers, -the salmon seemed to have almost abandoned their favorite haunts, for -the mud covered spawn would not hatch. Large salmon were speared by the -Indians in all the rivers, with a curious bone spear of but one tine, -while the smaller fry were caught in their weirs. In the Tulare lakes -and in the San Joaquin, King’s, Kern and other rivers, fish, frogs and -turtle are abundant, and water fowl literally swarm during the winter -months in many parts of California. - -Among the foot-hills of the Sierra Nevada, as well as in all the lesser -mountain ranges, may be found the common California blue quail, and a -very curious brush or chapparel cock, known to the Spanish residents -of California and Mexico as “El Paisano” (The Countryman), and as the -“Correo Camino” (Road-runner), and to ornithologists as the _Geo-coc -cyx Californicus_.[14] They have received the name of “_countryman_” -because of their inclination to run like country children at the sight -of strangers, and that of “road-runner” from the habit of frequenting -roads and trails, for the purpose of wallowing in the dust, and when -alarmed darting off along the road with the speed of an ostrich or wild -turkey. The object they have in wallowing in the dust is like that -of the ruffled grouse, which indulge in the same practice--they sun -themselves and at the same time are rid of vermin. Trusting to their -legs to escape when alarmed, they take the open ground--the road--until -outrunning pursuit they hide in the chapparel, and thus acquire the -name of “road-runner” or “chapparel cock.” - -I have never seen any ruffled grouse in the Sierra Nevada, but -a species of these fine birds, are quite abundant in Oregon and -Washington territory. I have been able to solve a question regarding -them, upon which naturalists have disagreed, that is, as to how they -drum. Whether the sound is produced by the wings in concussive blows -upon their bodies, the air, logs or rocks? I am able to say from -personal and careful observation, that the sound of “_drumming_,” is -made, like the sound of the “_night jar_,” exclusively by a peculiar -motion of the wings _in the air_. It is true, the American “pheasant” -or American “partridge,” commonly stands upon a log while drumming, but -I have watched them while perched upon a dry small branch or twig, drum -for hours most sonorously, calling upon their rivals to encounter them, -and their mistresses to come and witness their gallantry. Darwin has -aptly said: “The season of love, is that of battle.” Notwithstanding -the acuteness of observation of Mr. Darwin, he has been led into error -in his statement that wild horses “do not make any danger signals.” -They snort and paw the earth with impatience, when they cannot discover -the cause of their alarm, and almost invariably circle to the leeward -of the object that disturbs them. A mule is the best of sentinels to -alarm a camp on the approach of danger. Deer and elk whistle and strike -the earth perpendicularly with their feet when _jumping up_ to discover -the cause of alarm. Deer and antelope are both so inquisitive, that -if the hunter has not been seen, or has been but imperfectly seen, by -dropping into the grass or brush, and raising some object to view and -suddenly withdrawing it, the deer or antelope will frequently come up -within a few feet of the object. Antelope are especially curious to -know what disturbs them. - -The coyotes, or small wolves, and the grey or tree climbing foxes of -California, make a kind of barking noise, more like the bark of a small -dog than the howl of a wolf; and therefore barking is not so much of -“_an acquired_” art as has been supposed, though the “laughter” of dogs -is more or less acquired. - -The whistle of the elk is as complete a call to his mistress, and is -as well understood, as though the female had said, “Whistle and I’ll -come to you.” Elk and antelope are still to be found in California, -as well as wild horses, but they are now quite timid, and resort to -unfrequented ranges. The best hunting now to be found in California, -except for water-fowl, is in the region of Kern River. Near its source -big-horn or mountain sheep may be killed, and from along the base of -the eastern slope, antelope range into the desert. Deer and bear may be -found on either slope of the range, and among the broken hills south of -the head of Tulare valley. - -Wolves, foxes, badgers, coons, and other fur-clothed animals, are also -quite numerous. I have _dared_ to question some of Mr. Darwin’s facts, -and as I expect this to be my last literary effort (oh, ye reviewers!), -I wish to remind the publishers of Webster’s Dictionary that a beaver -is not an “_amphibious_” animal, neither is a muscalonge “an overgrown -pickerel.” - -A few days after we had moved camp to the south side of the Merced, -Captain Boling was prostrated with an attack of pneumonia. From -frequent wettings received while crossing the ice-cold torrents, and a -too free use of this snow-water, which did not agree with many, he had -for some days complained of slight illness, but after this attack he -was compelled to acknowledge himself sick. Although the severe symptoms -continued but a few days, his recovery was lingering, and confined him -to camp; consequently he knew but little of his rocky surroundings. -Although regular reports were made to him by the scouting parties, he -had but an imperfect conception of the labors performed by them in -clambering over the rocks of the cañons and mountains. He would smile -at the reports the more enthusiastic gave of the wonders discovered; -patiently listen to the complaints of the more practical at their -want of success in, what they termed, their futile explorations; and -finally concluded to suspend operations until the fast-melting snow had -so disappeared from the high mountain passes as to permit our taking -a supply-train, in order to make our search thorough. The winter had -been an unusually dry and cold one--so said the Indians--and, as a -consequence, the accumulations of snow in the passes and lake basins -had remained almost intact. A succession of mountain storms added to -the drifts, so that when the snow finally began to melt, the volume of -water coming from the “High Sierras” was simply prodigious--out of all -proportion to the quantity that had fallen upon the plains below. - -Sandino persisted in trying to make the Captain believe that most of -the Yosemites had already gone through the Mono Pass, and that those -remaining hidden, were but the members of Ten-ie-ya’s family. This -theory was not accepted by Capt. Boling, and occasional scouting -parties would still be sent out. A few of us continued to make short -excursions, more for adventure and to gratify curiosity, than with the -expectation of discovering the hiding places of the Indians; although -we kept up the form of a search. We thus became familiar with most of -the objects of interest. - -The more practical of our command could not remain quiet in camp during -this suspension of business. Beside the ordinary routine of camp -duties, they engaged in athletic sports and horse-racing. A very fair -race track was cleared and put in condition, and some of the owners of -fast horses were very much surprised, to see their favorites trailing -behind some of the fleet-footed mules. A maltese Kentucky blooded mule, -known as the “Vining Mule,” distanced all but one horse in the command, -and so pleased was Capt. Boling with its gracefully supple movements, -that he paid Vining for it a thousand dollars in gold. - -For a change of amusement, the members of our “Jockey Club” would -mount their animals and take a look at such points of interest as had -been designated in our camp-fire conversations as most remarkable. -The scenery in the Yosemite and vicinity, which is now familiar to so -many, was at that time looked upon with varied degrees of individual -curiosity and enjoyment, ranging from the enthusiastic, to almost a -total indifference to the sublime grandeur presented. It is doubtful -if any of us could have given a very graphic description of what we -saw, as the impressions then received were so far below the reality. -Distance, height, depth and dimensions were invariably under-estimated; -notwithstanding this, our attempts at descriptions after our return to -the settlements, were received as exaggerated “yarns.” - -While in Mariposa, upon one occasion not very long after the discovery -of Yosemite, I was solicited by Wm. T. Whitachre, a newspaper -correspondent from San Francisco, to furnish him a written description -of the Valley. This, of course, was beyond my ability to do; but I -disinterestedly complied with his request as far as I could, by giving -him some written details to work upon. On reading the paper over, he -advised me to reduce my estimates of heights of cliffs and waterfalls, -at least fifty per centum, or my judgment would be a subject of -ridicule even to my personal friends. I had estimated El Capitan at -from fifteen hundred to two thousand feet high; the Yosemite Fall at -about fifteen hundred feet, and other prominent points of interest in -about the same proportion. - -To convince me of my error of judgment, he stated that he had -interviewed Captain Boling and some others, and that none had estimated -the highest cliffs above a thousand feet. He further said that he -would not like to risk his own reputation as a correspondent, without -considerable modification of my statements, etc. Feeling outraged at -this imputation, I tore up the manuscript, and left the “newspaper man” -to obtain where he could such data for his patrons as would please him. -It remained for those who came after us to examine scientifically, -and to correctly describe what we only observed as wonderful natural -curiosities. With but few exceptions, curiosity was gratified by but -superficial examination of the objects now so noted. We were aware -that the valley was high up in the regions of the Sierra Nevada, but -its altitude above the sea level was only guessed at. The heights -of its immense granite walls was an uncertainty, and so little real -appreciation was there in the battalion, that some never climbed above -the Vernal Fall. They knew nothing of the beauties of the Nevada Fall, -or the “Little Yosemite.” We, as a body of men, were aware that the -mountains, cañons and waterfalls were on a grandly extensive scale, but -of the proportions of that scale we had arrived at no very definite -conclusions. - -During our explorations of the Sierras, we noticed the effects of the -huge avalanches of snow and ice that had in some age moved over the -smooth granite rocks and plowed the deep cañons. The evidences of -past glacial action were frequently visible; so common, in fact, as -hardly to be objects of special interest to us. The fact that glaciers -in motion existed in the vast piles of snow on the Sierras, was not -dreamed of by us, or even surmised by others, until discovered, in -1870, by Mr. John Muir, a naturalist and most persistent mountain -explorer, who by accurate tests verified the same, and gave his facts -to the world. Mr. Muir has also brought into prominent notice, by -publications in “Scribner’s Monthly Illustrated Magazine,” some of the -beautiful lakes of the Sierras, having discovered many unknown before. -Mr. Muir’s descriptions combine the most delightful imagery with the -accuracy of a true lover of nature. His article upon the water-auszel, -“The humming-bird of the California waterfalls,” in the same magazine, -proves him a most accomplished observer. - -All of the smaller streams that pour their tribute into the valley -during the melting of the snow, become later in the season but dry -ravines or mere rivulets, but the principal tributaries, running up, -as they do, into the lake and snow reservoirs, continue throughout -the dry season to pour their ample supply. After returning from my -mountain explorations, I freely questioned Ten-ie-ya of the places we -had visited. The old chief had gradually assumed his customary manner -of sociability, and if convinced by outline maps in the sand that we -were familiar with a locality, he would become quite communicative, and -give the names of the places described in distinct words. Our English -alphabet utterly fails to express the sounds of many of them, for they -were as unpronounceable as Apache. This difficulty is owing more or -less to the guttural termination given by the Indians. - -Another important fact which causes a confusion of these names is, that -owing to the poverty of their language, they use the same word, or what -seems to be the same, for several objects, which by accent, comparison -and allusion, or by gestures, are readily understood by them, but which -it is difficult for one not familiar with the dialect to comprehend, -and still more difficult to illustrate or remember. This I shall -endeavor to demonstrate in giving the names applied to different -localities in the valley and vicinity. - -While I was endeavoring to ascertain the names of localities from -Ten-ie-ya, he was allowed some privileges in camp, but was not -permitted to leave his guard. The cunning old fellow watched his -opportunity, and again made an attempt to escape by swimming the -river; but he was again foiled, and captured by the watchfulness and -surprising strength of Sergeant Cameron. - -From this time Ten-ie-ya was secured by a rope which was fastened -around his waist. The only liberty allowed was the extent of the rope -with which he was fastened. He was a hearty feeder, and was liberally -supplied. From a lack of sufficient exercise, his appetite cloyed, and -he suffered from indigestion. He made application to Captain Boling -for permission to go out from camp to the place where the grass was -growing, saying the food he had been supplied with was too strong; that -if he did not have grass he should die. He said the grass looked good -to him, and there was plenty of it. Why then should he not have it, -when dogs were allowed to eat it? - -The Captain was amused at the application, with its irony, but surmised -that he was meditating another attempt to leave us; however, he good -humoredly said: “He can have a ton of fodder if he desires it, but I -do not think it advisable to turn him loose to graze.” The Captain -consented to the Sergeant’s kindly arrangements to _tether_ him, and -he was led out to graze upon the young clover, sorrel, bulbous roots -and fresh growth of ferns which were then springing up in the valley, -one species of which we found a good salad. All of these he devoured -with the relish of a hungry ox. Occasionally truffles or wood-mushrooms -were brought him by Sandino and our allies, as if in kindly sympathy -for him, or in acknowledgment of his rank. Such presents and a slight -deference to his standing as a chief, were always received with grunts -of satisfaction. He was easily flattered by any extra attentions to his -pleasure. At such times he was singularly amiable and conversational. -Like many white men, it was evident that his more liberal feelings -could be the easiest aroused through his stomach. - -Our supplies not being deemed sufficient for the expedition over the -Sierras, and as those verdureless mountains would provide no forage for -our animals, nor game to lengthen out our rations unless we descended -to the lower levels, Capt. Boling sent a pack train to the Fresno -for barley and extra rations. All of our Indians except Sandino and -Ten-ie-ya were allowed to go below with the detachment sent along as -escort for the train. While waiting for these supplies, some of the -command who had been exploring up Indian Cañon, reported fresh signs -at the head of that ravine. Feeling somewhat recovered in strength, -Captain Boling decided to undertake a trip out, and see for himself -some of our surroundings. Accordingly, the next morning, he started -with some thirty odd men up Indian Cañon. His design was to explore the -Scho-look or Scho-tal-lo-wi branch (Yosemite Creek) to its source, or -at least the Southern exposures of the divide as far east as we could -go and return at night. Before starting, I advised the taking of our -blankets, for a bivouac upon the ridge, as from experience I was aware -of the difficult and laborious ascent, and intimated that the excursion -would be a laborious one for an invalid, if the undertaking was -accomplished. The Captain laughed as he said: “Are your distances equal -to your heights? If they correspond, we shall have ample time!” Of -course, I could make no reply, for between us, the subject of heights -had already been exhausted, although the Captain had not yet been to -the top of the inclosing walls. - -Still, realizing the sensitive condition of his lungs, and his -susceptibility to the influences of the cold and light mountain air, I -knew it would not be prudent for him to camp at the snow-line; and yet -I doubted his ability to return the same day; for this reason I felt -it my duty to caution him. A few others, who had avoided climbing the -cliffs, or if they had been upon any of the high ridges, their mules -had taken them there, joined in against my suggestion of providing -for the bivouac. I have before referred to the Texan’s devotion to -the saddle. In it, like Comanche Indians, he will undergo incredible -hardships; out of it, he is soon tired, and waddles laboriously like -a sailor, until the unaccustomed muscles adapt themselves to the -new service required of them; but the probabilities are against the -new exercise being continued long enough to accomplish this result. -Understanding this, I concluded in a spirit of jocularity to make light -of the toil myself; the more so, because I knew that my good Captain -had no just conception of the labor before him. By a rude process of -measurement, and my practical experience in other mountains in climbing -peaks whose heights had been established by measurements, I had -approximately ascertained or concluded that my first estimate of from -fifteen hundred to two thousand feet for the height of El Capitan, was -much below the reality. I had so declared in discussing these matters. -Captain Boling had finally estimated the height not to exceed one -thousand feet. Doctor Black’s estimate was far below this. I therefore -felt assured that _a walk up_ the cañon, would practically improve -their judgments of height and distance, and laughed within myself in -anticipation of the fun in store. On starting, I was directed to take -charge of Ten-ie-ya, whom we were to take with us, and to keep Sandino -near me, to interpret anything required during the trip. As we entered -Indian Cañon, the old chief told the Captain that the ravine was a bad -one to ascend. To this the Captain replied, “No matter, we know this -ravine leads out of the valley; Ten-ie-ya’s trail might lead us to a -warmer locality.” - -Climbing over the wet, mossy rocks, we reached a level where a halt was -called for a rest. As Doctor Black came up from the rear, he pointed to -a ridge above us, and exclaimed, “Thank God, we are in sight of the top -at last.” “Yes, Doctor,” said I, “that is one of the first tops.” “How -so?” he inquired; “Is not that the summit of this ravine?” To this I -cheerfully replied, “You will find quite a number of such tops before -you emerge from this cañon.” Noticing his absence before reaching -the summit, I learned he took the trail back, and safely found his -weary way to camp. Captain Boling had over-estimated his strength and -endurance. He was barely able to reach the table land at the head of -the ravine, where, after resting and lunching, he visited the Falls, as -he afterwards informed me. By his order I took command of nine picked -men and the two Indians. With these I continued the exploration, while -the party with the Captain _explored_ the vicinity of the High Fall, -viewed the distant mountains, and awaited my return from above. - -With my energetic little squad, I led the way, old Ten-ie-ya in front, -Sandino at his side, through forest openings and meadows, until we -reached the open rocky ground on the ridge leading to what is now known -as Mt. Hoffman. I directed our course towards that peak. We had not -traveled very far, the distance does not now impress me, when as we -descended toward a tributary of Yosemite creek, we came suddenly upon -an Indian, who at the moment of discovery was lying down drinking from -the brook. The babbling waters had prevented his hearing our approach. -We hurried up to within fifty or sixty yards, hoping to capture him, -but were discovered. Seeing his supposed danger, he bounded off, a -fine specimen of youthful vigor. No racehorse or greyhound could have -seemingly made better time than he towards a dense forest in the valley -of the Scho-look. Several rifles were raised, but I gave the order -“don’t shoot,” and compelled the old chief to call to him to stop. The -young Indian did stop, but it was at a safe distance. When an attempt -was made by two or three to move ahead and get close to him, he saw the -purpose and again started; neither threatening rifles, nor the calls of -Ten-ie-ya, could again stop his flight. - -As we knew our strength, after such a climb, was not equal to the chase -of the fleet youth, he was allowed to go unmolested. I could get no -information from Ten-ie-ya concerning the object of the exploration; -and as for Sandino, his memory seemed to have conveniently failed him. -With this conclusion I decided to continue my course, and moved off -rapidly. Ten-ie-ya complained of fatigue, and Sandino reminded me that -I was traveling very fast. My reply to both cut short all attempts to -lessen our speed; and when either were disposed to lag in their gait, I -would cry out the Indian word, “We-teach,” meaning hurry up, with such -emphasis as to put new life into their movements. - -We soon struck an old trail that led east along the southern slope -of the divide, and when I abandoned my purpose of going farther -towards the Tuolumne, and turned to the right on the trail discovered, -Ten-ie-ya once more found voice in an attempt to dissuade me from this -purpose, saying that the trail led into the mountains where it was very -cold, and where, without warm clothing at night, we would freeze. He -was entirely too earnest, in view of his previous taciturnity; and I -told him so. - -The snow was still quite deep on the elevated portions of the ridge and -in shaded localities, but upon the open ground, the trail was generally -quite bare. As we reached a point still farther east, we perceived -the trail had been recently used; the tracks had been made within -a day or two. From the appearances, we concluded they were made by -Ten-ie-ya’s scouts who had followed down the ridge and slope west of -the North Dome to watch our movements. The tracks were made going and -returning, thus showing a continued use of this locality. As the tracks -diverged from the trail at this point, they led out of the direct -line of any communication with the valley, and after some reflection, -I was satisfied that we had struck a clue to their hiding place, and -realizing that it was time to return if we expected to reach the valley -before dark, we turned about and started at once on the down grade. - -We found the Captain anxiously awaiting our return. He was pleased -with our report, and agreed in the conclusion that the Indians were -encamped not very far off. Captain Boling had suffered from fatigue and -the chill air of the mountains. In speaking of a farther pursuit of -our discoveries, he said: “I am not as strong as I supposed, and will -have to await the return of the pack train before taking part in these -expeditions.” - -I told Captain Boling that upon the trip, Sandino had appeared -willfully ignorant when questioned concerning the country we were -exploring, and my belief that he stood in fear of Ten-ie-ya; that -as a guide, no dependence could be placed upon him, and that his -interpretations of Ten-ie-ya’s sayings were to be received with caution -when given in the old chief’s presence, as Ten-ie-ya’s Spanish was -about equal to his own. Captain Boling instructed me to tell Sandino, -that in future, he need only act as interpreter. He seemed satisfied -with this arrangement, and said that the country appeared different -from what it was when he was a boy and had been accustomed to traverse -it. - -When we commenced our descent into the valley Ten-ie-ya wanted us to -branch off to the left, saying he was very tired, and wanted to take -the best trail. Said he, “There is a good trail through the arrow-wood -rocks to the left of the cañon.” I reported this to the Captain, and -expressed the opinion that the old chief was sincere for once; he had -grumbled frequently while we were ascending the cañon in the morning, -because we were compelled to climb over the moss covered bowlders, -while crossing and re-crossing the stream, and he told Sandino that -we should have taken the trail along the cliff above. Captain Boling -replied: “Take it, or it will be long after dark before we reach -camp.” Accordingly I let Ten-ie-ya lead the way, and told him to -travel fast. He had more than once proved that he possessed an agility -beyond his years. As his parole was at a discount, I secured a small -cord about his chest and attached the other end to my left wrist to -maintain _telegraphic_ communication with him; but as the hidden trail -narrowed and wound its crooked way around a jutting point of the cliff -overlooking the valley and ravine, I slipped the loop from my wrist and -ordered a halt. - -Captain Boling and the men with him came up and took in the view before -us. One asked if I thought a bird could go down there safely. Another -wanted to know if I was aiding “Old Truthful” to commit suicide. -The last question had an echo of suspicion in my own thoughts. I -immediately surmised it possible the old sachem was leading us into -another trap, where, by some preconcerted signal, an avalanche of rocks -would precipitate us all to the bottom. I asked Ten-ie-ya if this trail -was used by his people; he assured me it was, by women and children; -that it was a favorite trail of his. Seeing some evidences of it having -been recently used, and being assured by Sandino that it was somewhere -below on this trail that Ten-ie-ya had descended to the valley when -taken a prisoner, a few of us were shamed into a determination to make -the attempt to go where the old chief could go. - -Most of the party turned back. They expressed a willingness to fight -Indians, but they had not, they said, the faith requisite to attempt -to walk on water, much less air. They went down Indian Cañon, and some -did not reach camp until after midnight, tired, bruised and footsore. -We who had decided to take our chances, re-commenced our descent. I -told Ten-ie-ya to lead on, and to stop at the word “halt,” or he would -be shot. I then dispatched Sandino across the narrow foot-way, which, -at this point was but a few inches in width, and which was all there -was dividing us from Eternity as we passed over it. Telling them both -to halt on a projecting bench in view, I crossed this yawning abyss, -while Sandino, aided by a very dead shot above, held the old man as if -petrified, until I was able once more to resume my charge of him. - -This I found was the only really dangerous place, on what was -facetiously called, by those who were leaving us, “a very good trail.” -The last fifty or sixty feet of the descent was down the sloping side -of an immense detached rock, and then down through the top of a black -oak tree at the south-westerly base of the vast cliff or promontory -known as the “Arrow-wood Cliff.” The “Royal Arches,” the “Washington -Column,” and the “North Dome,” occupy positions east of this trail, but -upon the same vast pile of granite. - -I sometime afterward pointed out the trail to a few visitors that I -happened to meet at its foot. They looked upon me with an incredulous -leer, and tapped their foreheads significantly, muttering something -about “Stockton Asylum.” Fearing to trust my amiability too far, I -turned and left them. Since then I have remained cautiously silent. -Now that the impetuosity of youth has given place to the more -deliberative counsels of age, and all dangers to myself or others are -past, I repeat, for the benefit of adventurous tourists, that on the -southwesterly face of the cliff overlooking the valley and Indian -Cañon, there is a trail hidden from view, that they may travel if they -will, and experience all the sensations that could ever have been felt, -while alive, by a Blondin or LaMountain. - -This portion of the cliff we designated as Ten-ie-ya’s Trail, and it -accords well with the scene in the Jungfrau Mountains, where Manfred, -alone upon the cliffs, says: - - “And you, ye craigs, upon whose extreme edge - I stand, and on the torrent’s brink beneath - Behold the tall pines dwindled as to shrubs, - In dizziness of distance; when a leap, - A stir, a motion, even a breath, would bring - My breast upon its rocky bosom’s bed - To rest forever--wherefore do I pause? - I feel the impulse--yet I do not plunge; - I see the peril--yet do not recede; - And my brain reels--and yet my foot is firm: - There is a power upon me which withholds, - And makes it my fatality to live.” - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - The Indian Names--Difficulty of their Interpretation--Circumstances - Suggesting Names of Vernal, Nevada and Bridal Veil Falls--Mr. - Richardson’s Descriptions of the Falls and Round Rainbow--Py-we-ack - Misplaced, and “_Illiluette_” an Absurdity--An English Name Suggested - for Too-lool-lo-we-ack, Pohono and Tote-ack-ah-nü-la--Indian - Superstitions and Spiritual Views--A Free National Park - Desirable--Off on the Trail. - - -During our long stay in the Yosemite, I discovered that almost every -prominent object and locality in and about it, had some distinctive -appellation. Every peak and cliff, every cañon or ravine, meadow, -stream and waterfall, had a designation by which it could be -distinguished by the Yosemites. I made considerable effort to acquire -these names in their native purity. Although I did not at that time -learn all of them, I did in subsequent visits to the valley and to -the camps of the remnants of the tribes, acquire, as I then believed, -a very nearly correct pronunciation of most of them. I used all the -advantages afforded by my position as one of the Spanish interpreters, -and applied myself perseveringly to the task of preserving these names; -for even at that early day I realized that public interest would, in -time, be attached to that wonderful locality. I was ridiculed for -the idea, or at least for the supposition that it probably would be -awakened during my life-time. - -I obtained many of the names of objects and locations from old -Ten-ie-ya himself, whenever I could find him in a communicative mood. -As he was reputed to be quite a linguist, speaking, besides his -native Ah-wah-ne-chee, the Pai-ute, and other dialects, I regarded -his authority as superior to that of either the Po-ho-no or Noot-chü -Indians, who differed from him in the pronunciation of some of the -names. - -I was unable to converse with Ten-ie-ya except through an interpreter, -but the words I noted down from the old chief’s lips as they sounded -to my ear at the time, getting the signification as best I could, or -not at all. There is really no more sentiment or refined imagery of -expression among Indians than will be found among ignorant people of -any kind. But living as they do in close affinity with nature, natural -objects first attract their attention, and the dominant characteristics -of any object impress themselves upon their language. Hence many of -their words are supposed to be representative of natural sounds. Our -Po-ho-no-chee and Noot-chü scouts were familiar with the dialect in -common use by the Yosemites, and they also aided me, while at times -they confused, in acquiring the proper names. The territory claimed by -the Po-ho-no-chees, joined that of the Yosemites on the south. During -the Summer months, they occupied the region of the Po-ho-no Meadows, -and the vicinity of the Pohono Lake. Their territory, however, extended -to the right bank of the South Fork of the Merced. It was there we -found a little band on our first expedition. Some of this band were -quite intelligent, having with the Noot-chüs, worked for Major Savage. -It was from them that the Major first learned that the Yosemites were a -composite band, collected from the disaffected of other bands in that -part of California, and what is now Nevada; and as the Major said, the -dialect in common use among them was nearly as much of a mixture as the -components of the band itself, for he recognized Pai-ute, Kah-we-ah and -Oregon Indian words among them. - -Major Savage was intimately familiar with the dialects of his -Indian miners and customers, and was probably at that time the best -interpreter in California of the different mountain dialects. - -I consulted him freely as to the pronunciation of the names, and -learned his interpretation of the meaning of them. These names, or most -of them, were first given for publication by myself, as received from -the Yosemites and Po-ho-no-chees; together with English names which had -been given to some of the same points by the battalion. I purposely -avoided all attempts at description, giving instead, a few estimates of -heights. The data then furnished by myself was published in editorials, -and has been mostly preserved, though in an imperfect state, from some -fault in my writing or that of the proof-reader. Reference to old files -of the “California Chronicle,” “Sacramento Union,” “California Farmer” -and the Mariposa papers, will show a somewhat different orthography -from that now in use.[15] - -While in the valley I made memoranda of names and important events, -which I have preserved, and which, with interpretations kindly -furnished me by Mr. B. B. Travis, an excellent _modern_ interpreter, -I am now using to verify my recollections and those of my comrades. -While acquiring these names, I employed every opportunity to make -them familiar, but this proved to be a thankless task, or at least -it was an impossible one. The great length of some of the names, and -the varied pronunciations, made the attempt an impracticable one. I -then gave attention to the substitution of suitable English names -in place of the Indian words, and to supersede the fantastic and -absurd ones already suggested and affixed by some of the command. It -is so customary for frontiersmen to give distinctive names of their -own coinage, that we had great difficulty in getting any of the -Indian names adopted; and considerable judgment had to be exercised -in selecting such English names as would “stick”--as would displace -such names as the “Giant’s Pillar,” “Sam Patch’s Falls,” “The Devil’s -Night-Cap,” etc., etc. Many English names were given because they -were thought to be better than the Indian names, which could not be -remembered or pronounced, and the meaning of which was not understood. -The English names agreed upon and adopted at that time have since -been retained, notwithstanding some adverse criticisms and efforts -to supersede them by some fancied Indian or mythological substitute. -Some of these names were the selection of my comrades--“Cloud’s Rest,” -for one; because upon our first visit the party exploring the “Little -Yosemite” turned back and hastened to camp upon seeing the clouds -rapidly settling down to rest upon that mountain, thereby indicating -the snow storm that soon followed. - -The most of the names were however, selected by myself, and adopted by -our command. This deference was awarded to my selections because I was -actively interested in acquiring the Indian names and significations, -and because I was considered the most interested in the scenery. - -I have related in a previous chapter the incident of selecting the -name “Yosemite” for the valley, not then knowing its Indian name. -As the “High Fall,” near which we were encamped, appeared to be the -principal one of the Sierras, and was the fall _par excellence_, I -gave that the name of “Yosemite Falls,” and in so naming it I but -followed out the idea of the Indians who called it “Choolook” or -“Scholook,” which signifies in this case “The Fall.” A comparison of -the Yosemite Falls with those known in other parts of the world, will -show that in elements of picturesque beauty, height, volume, color -and majestic surroundings, the Yosemite has no rival upon earth. The -Zambesi and Niagara are typical of volume, but the Yosemite is sixteen -times greater in height than Niagara, and about eight times that of -the Victoria Falls. The upper part of the Yosemite is more than twice -the height of the Svoringvoss, of Norway, and lacks but thirty feet of -being twice as high as the highest of the Southerland waterfalls, of -New Zealand. The three falls of the Southerland aggregate but 1,904 -feet, 730 less than the Yosemite. - -The Ribbon Fall of the El Capitan has a sheer descent of 2,100 feet, -but its beauty disappears with the melting snow. The other falls -were only designated by the names of the streams upon which they are -situated. The river Merced was spoken of as the river of Ah-wah-ne; -but the three principal branches were variously designated; the main, -or middle, up to the Vernal Fall, as “Yan-o-pah,” the “Water Cloud” -branch, and above the Vernal, as “Yo-wy-we-ack,” “the twisting rock -branch.” - -The north and south branches had their distinctive names; the north, -Py-we-ack, meaning the branch of the “Glistening Rocks,” and the -south, Too-lool-we-ack, or more definitely, Too-lool-lo-we-ack. The -modern interpretations of some of these names may be regarded as quite -fanciful, though Major Savage would declare that Indian languages were -so full of figures of speech that without imagination they could not be -understood. - -The strictly literal interpretation of this name would be inadmissable, -but it is well enough to say, that to the unconscious innocence of -their primitive state, the word simply represented an effort of nature -in the difficult passage of the water down through the rocky gorge. -It is derived from Too-lool and We-ack, and means, ὁ ποταμὸς, ὃς -διὰ πέτρας οὐρεῖ. This name has been published as if by authority to -signify. “_The Beautiful_”--how beautiful, the learned in Greek may -judge. - -This really beautiful fall was visited by few of our battalion, and -owing to the impracticability of following up the cañon above the -fall, and the great difficulty of access to it, it was left neglected; -the command contenting itself with a distant view. In view of the -discoveries of Mr. Muir that there were glaciers at its source, and -that the cliff now known as “Glacier Point” may be said to mark the -entrance to this “South Cañon,” a name often confounded with “South -Fork,” and especially because of the impropriety of translating this -Indian name, I think it advisable to call this the Glacier Fall, and, -therefore, give it that name in this volume. The name of “Illeuette” is -not Indian, and is, therefore, meaningless and absurd. In accordance -with the customs of these mountain people of naming their rivers -from the most characteristic features of their source, the North or -Ten-ie-ya branch of the Merced, which comes down the North Cañon from -the glistening glacial rocks at its source, was called Py-we-ack, -“the river of glistening rocks,” or more literally, perhaps, “the -river-smoothed rocks.” Whether from Pai, a river, or from Py-ca-bo, a -spring, I am in doubt. If the first syllable of the name Py-we-ack be -derived from Py-ca-bo, then, probably, the name signified to them “the -glistening rock spring branch,” as the ice-burnished rocks at the head -of Lake Ten-ie-ya stand at the source of the river. - -I have never been satisfied with the poetical interpretation given the -name, nor with its transfer to “Yan-o-pah,” the branch of the “little -cloud,” as rendered by Mr. Travis. But as Py-we-ack has been displaced -from Lake Ten-ie-ya and its outlet, it is proper and in accordance with -the custom to call the branch Ten-ie-ya also. The name of Ten-ie-ya -was given to the lake at the time of its discovery. It was there we -captured the remnant of the Yosemite band, as will be explained in -the next chapter. The name of Ten-ie-ya Cañon, Ten-ie-ya Fork and -Lake Ten-ie-ya, has for this reason superseded the original name of -Py-we-ack; but in naming the lake, I preserved an Indian name that -represented the central figure in all of our operations. - -Wai-ack was the name for “Mirror Lake,” as well as for the mountain it -so perfectly reflected. The lake itself was not particularly attractive -or remarkable, but in the early morning, before the breeze swept up -the cañon, the reflections were so perfect, especially of what is now -known as Mt. Watkins, that even our scouts called our attention to it -by pointing and exclaiming: “Look at Wai-ack,” interpreted to mean the -“Water Rock.” This circumstance suggested the name of “Mirror Lake.” -The name was opposed by some, upon the ground that all still water was -a mirror. My reply established the name. It was that other conditions, -such as light and shade, were required, as when looking into a well, -the wall of the Half Dome perfecting the conditions, and that when -shown another pool that was more deserving, we would transfer the name. -Captain Boling approved the name, and it was so called by the battalion. - -The middle or main branch was designated by the Yosemites--from the -fork of the Glacial Branch up to the Vernal Fall--as Yan-o-pah, because -they were compelled to pass through the spray of the Vernal, to them -a “little cloud,” while passing up this cañon. The Indian name of the -Nevada Fall, “Yo-wy-we,” or Yo-wy-ye, and that of Too-lool-lo-we-ack, -afforded innumerable jests and amusing comments, and when the -suggestion of naming these falls was made, it was received with rude -hilarity. Names without number were presented as improvements on -the originals. These names were indeed more than my own gravity would -endure; Yo-wy-we being represented at first to signify the “wormy” -water, from the twist or _squirm_ given to the water in falling upon an -obstructing rock; and therefore, after consultation with a few of my -personal friends, I suggested Vernal, as an English name for Yan-o-pah, -and Nevada, for that of Yo-wy-we. The Nevada Fall was so called because -it was the nearest to the Sierra Nevada, and because the name was -sufficiently indicative of a wintry companion for our spring. - -[Illustration: MIRROR LAKE--WATKINS’ AND CLOUDS’ REST.] - -It would be a difficult task to trace out and account for all of our -impressions, or for the forms they take; but my recollection is that -the cool, moist air, and newly-springing Kentucky blue-grass at the -Vernal, with the sun shining through the spray as in an April shower, -suggested the _sensation_ of spring before the name of Vernal occurred -to me; while the white, foaming water, as it dashed down Yo-wy-we from -the snowy mountains, represented to my mind a vast avalanche of snow. -In concluding my advocacy of these names, I represented the fact that -while we were enjoying the vernal showers below, hoary-headed winter -was pouring his snowy avalanches above us. Then, quoting from Byron, I -said: - - The Vernal “... mounts in spray the skies, and thence again - Returns in an unceasing shower, which round - With its unemptied cloud of gentle rain, - Is an eternal April to the ground, - Making it all one emerald.” - -These names were given during our long stay in the valley, at a time -when - - “The fragrant strife of sunshine with the morn - Sweeten’d the air to ecstasy!” - -It is agreeably complimentary for me to believe that our motives in -giving English names were comprehended, and our action in the matter -appreciated by others. Mr. Richardson, in “Beyond the Mississippi,” -shows an almost intuitive perception of our reasons for adopting -the English names given to the principal falls in the Yosemite. He -says: “These names are peculiarly fitting--Bridal Veil indeed looks -like a veil of lace; in summer when Bridal Veil and Yosemite dwarf, -Vernal still pours its ample torrent, and Nevada is always white -as a snow-drift. The Yosemite is height, the Vernal is volume, the -Bridal Veil is softness, but the Nevada is height, volume and softness -combined. South Fork cataract, most inaccessible of all, we did not -visit. In spring each fall has twenty times as much water as in summer. -On the whole Yosemite is incomparably the most wonderful feature on -our continent.” Speaking of the Vernal Fall, Mr. Richardson says: “I -saw what to Hebrew prophet had been a vision of heaven, or the visible -presence of the Almighty. It was the round rainbow--the complete -circle. There were two brilliant rainbows of usual form, the crescent, -the bow proper. But while I looked the two horns of the inner or lower -crescent suddenly lengthened, extending on each side to my feet, an -entire circle, perfect as a finger ring. In two or three seconds it -passed away, shrinking to the first dimensions. Ten minutes later it -formed again and again, and again as suddenly disappeared. Every sharp -gust of wind showering the spray over me, revealed for a moment the -round rainbow. Completely drenched, I stood for an hour and a half -and saw fully twenty times that dazzling circle of violet and gold -on a ground-work of wet, dark rocks, gay dripping flowers and vivid -grasses. I never looked upon any other scene in nature so beautiful and -impressive.” Mr. Richardson has with a great deal of enthusiasm given -a vivid description of what appeared to me as a glowing representation -of youthful spring; and to which the name of “vernal” was, I think, -consistently and appropriately applied. - -Mr. Hutchings, in criticising the name Vernal, has mis-stated the -Indian name for this fall, furnished him by myself, and published in -his magazine and his “Scenes of Wonder;” and while neglecting to speak -in terms of the vivid green of the yielding sod that “squirts” water, -he eloquently describes the characteristics of a _vernal_ shower; or -the Yosemites “little water cloud,” Can-o-pah; or, if it pleases him -better, Yan-o-pah. The name given by the Yosemites to the Ten-ie-ya -branch of the Merced was unmistakably Py-we-ack. This name has been -transferred from its original locality by some _romantic_ preserver of -Indian names. While passing over to Yan-o-pah, it was provided with an -entirely new signification. It is indeed a laughable idea for me to -even suppose that a worm and acorn-eating Indian would ever attempt -to construct a name to mean “_a shower of sparkling crystals_;” his -diet must have been improved by _modern_ intelligent culture. The -signification is certainly poetical, and is but _one step_ removed -from the sublime. One objection only can be raised against it; it is -a little too romantic; something after the style of the tradition -furnished Mr. Bancroft.[16] - -Names were given to the numerous little streams that poured into the -valley during the melting of the snow, and formed many beautiful -water-falls and cascades, but I shall not attempt to describe them, as -it would serve no useful purpose to give the common-place, and in some -instances, very _primitive_ names of these ephemeral streams. In any -other mountains, in any other country, great interest would attach to -them; but in the Yosemite, they are but mere suggestions to the grander -objects that overshadow them. - -Another witness to the propriety of the English names is Professor J. -D. Whitney, State Geologist. In his admirable “Yosemite Guide Book” he -says: “The names given by the early white visitors to the region, have -entirely replaced the native ones; and they are, in general, quite -sufficiently euphonious and proper, some of them, perhaps slightly -inclined to sentimentality; for if we recognize the appropriateness of -the ‘Bridal Veil’ as a designation for the fall called Po-ho-no by the -Indians, we fail to perceive why the ‘Virgin’s Tears’ should be flowing -on the opposite side of the valley.” - -This criticism is undoubtedly just. It seems as if some one had made -an enormous stride across from the poetically sublime to ridiculous -sentimentality. It is fortunate that the fall dries up early in the -season! - -The name of “Bridal-Veil” was suggested as an appropriate English name -for the Fall of the Pohono by Warren Bær, Esq., at the time editor of -the “Mariposa Democrat,” while we were visiting the valley together. -The appropriateness of the name was at once acknowledged, and adopted -as commemorative of his visit. Mr. Bær was a man of fine culture, a son -of the celebrated Doctor Bær of Baltimore. - -The Pohono takes its rise in a small lake known as Lake Pohono, twelve -or fifteen miles in a southernly direction from the Fall. The stream is -fed by several small branches that run low early in the season. - -The whole basin drained, as well as the meadows adjacent, was known to -us of the battalion, as the Pohono branch and meadows. - -The band who inhabited this region as a summer resort, called -themselves Po-ho-no-chee, or Po-ho-na-chee, meaning the dwellers in -Po-ho-no, as Ah-wah-ne-chee was understood to indicate the occupants of -Ah-wah-nee. This delightful summer retreat was famous for the growth -of berries and grasses, and was a favorite resort for game. The black -seeds of a coarse grass found there, were used as food. When pulverized -in stone mortars, the meal was made into mush and porridge. I found it -impossible to obtain the literal signification of the word, but learned -beyond a doubt that Po-ho-no-chee was in some way connected with the -stream. I have recently learned that Po-ho-no means a daily puffing -wind, and when applied to fall, stream, or meadow, means simply the -fall, stream, or meadow of the puffing wind, and when applied to the -tribe of Po-ho-no-chees, who occupied the meadows in summer, indicated -that they dwelled on the meadows of that stream. - -Mr. Cunningham says: “Po-ho-no, in the Indian language, means a belt -or current of wind coming in puffs and moving in one direction.” There -is such a current, in its season, on the Old Millerton Road, where -the dust is swept off clean. The Chow-chilla Indians call that the -Po-ho-no. The Po-ho-no of the Yosemite makes its appearance where the -two cascade creeks enter the canon, and this air current is daily swept -up the canon to the Bridal Veil Fall, and up its stream, in puffs of -great power. The water is thrown back and up in rocket-like jets, far -above the fall, making it uniquely remarkable among the wonders of the -valley. - -Mr. Hutching’s interpretation is entirely fanciful, as are most of his -Indian translations.” - -The name for the little fall to which the name of “Virgin’s Tears” has -been applied, was known to us as “Pigeon Creek Fall.” The Indian name -is “Lung-yo-to-co-ya”; its literal meaning is “Pigeon Basket,” probably -signifying to them “Pigeon Nests,” or _Roost_. In explanation of the -name for the creek, I was told that west of El Capitan, in the valley -of the stream, and upon the southern slopes, pigeons were at times -quite numerous. Near the southwest base of the cliff we found a large -_caché_. The supplies were put up on rocks, on trees and on posts. -These granaries were constructed of twigs, bark and grass, with the -tops covered in and rounded like a large basket. - -If this _caché_ had any connection with the name of “Pigeon Baskets,” -Lung-yo-to-co-ya would probably designate “The Pigeon Creek _Caché_.” - -After a reverential salutation, “El Capitan” must now receive my -attention. - -It has been stated in print that the signification of -Tote-ack-ah-noo-la was “Crane Mountain,” and that the name was -given because of the habit sand-hill cranes had of entering the -valley over this cliff. I never knew of this habit. Many erroneous -statements relating to the Yosemite have appeared--some in Appleton’s -Encyclopædia, and one very amusing one in Bancroft’s Traditions--but -none appear to me more improbable. - -During our long stay at our second visit, this cliff was invariably -called by our scouts Tote-ack-ah-noo-la, and with some slight -difference in the terminal syllable, was so called by Ten-ie-ya. This -word was invariably translated to mean the “Rock Chief,” or “The -Captain.” - -Upon one occasion I asked, “Why do you call the cliff -Tote-ack-ah-noo-la?” The Indian’s reply was, “Because he looks like -one.” I then asked, “What was meant by _he_?” at the same time saying -that the cliff was not a man, to be called “he.” His reply was, “Come -with me and see.” Taking Sandino with me, I went, and as the Indian -reached a point a little above and some distance out from the cliff, -he triumphantly pointed to the perfect image of a man’s head and face, -with side whiskers, and with an expression of the sturdy English type, -and asked, “Does he not look like Tote-ack-ah-noo-la?” The “Rock -Chief,” or “Captain,” was again Sandino’s interpretation of the word -while viewing the likeness. - -This was the first intimation that any of us had of the reason why the -name was applied, and it was _shown_ in response to the question asked, -why the rock had been personified. - -To-tor-kon, is the name for a sand-hill crane, and ni-yul-u-ka, is -the Pai-ute for head; but “crane-head” can scarcely be manufactured -out of Tote-ack-ah-noo-la. It appears to me most probable that -Tote-ack-ah-noo-la is derived from “ack,” a rock, and To-whon-e-o, -meaning chief. I am not etymologist enough to understand just how -the word has been constructed, but am satisfied that the primates of -the compound are rock and chief. If, however, I am found in error, I -shall be most willing to acknowledge it, for few things appear more -uncertain, or more difficult to obtain, than a complete understanding -of the _soul_ of an Indian language; principally because of the -ignorance and suspicion with which a persistent and thorough research -is met by the sensitively vain and jealous savages. - -In leaving this subject, I would say that before it be too late, a -careful and full collection of vocabularies of _all_ the tongues should -be made. I am aware of what has already been done by the labors of -Schoolcraft, and the officers of the army in more modern times; but -there is yet left a large field for persistent labor, that should be -worked by the Smithsonian Institute or ethnological societies. - -In adopting the Spanish interpretation, “El Capitan,” for -Tote-ack-ah-noo-la, we pleased our mission interpreters and conferred -upon the majestic cliff a name corresponding to its dignity. When this -name was approved it set aside forever those more numerous than belong -to royal families. It is said by Mr. Hutchings that a profile likeness -is readily traced on the angle of the cliff. The one pointed out to -me was above the pine tree alcove on the southern face of the cliff, -half way up its wall. It appeared to have been formed by the peculiar -conformation of the rock and oxidation. The chemical stain of iron, or -other mineral substance, had produced this representation, which was -looked upon with superstitious awe. - -“The Fallen Rocks,” “The Frog Mountains,” or “Three Brothers,” the -“Yosemite Falls,” “The Lost Arrow,” “Indian Cañon” and “The Arrow-wood -Rocks” have already been noticed in these pages. It remains for me -to briefly notice a few more objects and close this chapter. The -names “North Dome,” “South Dome” and “Half Dome” were given by us -during our long stay in the valley from their localities and peculiar -configuration. Some changes have been made since they were adopted. -The peak called by us the “South Dome” has since been given the name -of “Sentinel Dome,” and the “Half Dome,” Tis-sa-ack, represented as -meaning the “Cleft Rock,” is now called by many the “South Dome.”[17] -The name for the “North Dome” is To-ko-ya, its literal signification -“The Basket.” The name given to the rocks now known as “The Royal -Arches” is Scho-ko-ya when alluding to the fall, and means the “Basket -Fall,” as coming from To-ko-ya, and when referring to the rock itself -it was called Scho-ko-ni, meaning the movable shade to a cradle, which, -when in position, formed an arched shade over the infant’s head. The -name of “The Royal Arch” was given to it by a comrade who was a member -of the Masonic Fraternity, and it has since been called “The Royal -Arches.” The “Half Dome” was figuratively spoken of as “The Sentinel” -by our mission Indians, because of its overlooking the valley. The -present “Sentinel” they called “Loya,” a corruption of Olla (Oya), -Spanish for an earthen water-pot. The mountain tribes use, instead, a -long-pointed basket, shaped somewhat like that rock, which the basket -is supposed to resemble. - -[Illustration: SENTINEL ROCK. - -(3,043 feet in height.)] - -The name of “Glacier Point” is said to be Pa-til-le-ma, a translation -of which I am unable to give. Ho-yas, and not Lo-ya, as has been -stated by some, referred to certain holes in detached rocks west of -the Sentinel, which afforded “milling privileges” for a number of -squaws, and hence, the locality was a favorite camp ground. “The -Sentinel” or “Loya,” simply marked the near locality of the Ho-yas or -mortars, or “_The_ camp ground;” as it does now _The Hotels_. It was -a common practice for visitors to confer new names on the objects of -their enthusiastic admiration, and these were frequently given to the -public through letters to newspapers, while others may be found in the -more enduring monuments of literature. It is a matter of no surprise -that so few of them ever _stuck_. But little change has really been -made in the English names for the more important objects within the -valley and in its immediate vicinity. The Cathedral Rocks and spires, -known as Poo-see-na-chuc-ka, meaning “Mouse-proof Rocks,” from a -fancied resemblance in shape to their acorn magazines or _cachés_, or -a suitability for such use, have been somewhat individualized by their -English names. - -Of Ko-sü-kong, the name of the “Three Graces,” I never learned the -meaning. Ta-pun-ie-me-te is derived from Ta-pun-ie, meaning the toes, -because of walking on tip-toes across, and referred to the “stepping -stones” that were at the lower ford. Mr. Travis’ “succession of rocks” -simply indicated the _turning-off_ place. There are other names that it -appears unimportant for me to notice. They have been sufficiently well -preserved in Professor Whitney’s valuable Guide Book. - -Some romantic believers in the natural tendencies of the Indians to -be poetical in their expressions, twist the most vulgar common-place -expressions and names into significations poetically refined, and of -devotional sincerity. - -Others have taken the same license in their desire to cater to the -taste of those credulous admirers of the NOBLE RED MAN, the ideal -of romance, the reality of whom is graded low down in the scale -of humanity. Mr. Hutchings, who, were it not for his exuberant -imagination, might have learned better, gives the signification of -“Lung-oo-to-koo-ya” as “Long and Slender,” and applies it to what he -calls the Ribbon Fall. His name is better than his interpretation. -Mr. H. also says that the signification of To-toc-ah-nü-la is “a -Semi-Deity;” that of “Tissa-ack” “Goddess of the Valley,” and that -Po-ho-no means “The Spirit of the Evil Wind.” - -These interpretations, like the “sparkling shower of crystals” are -more artistically imaginative than correct. The Pai-ute for wind, is -Ni-gat, and the Kah-we-ah, is Yah-i, one or the other of which tongues -were used by the Yosemites; though the Pai-ute, or a dialect of it, was -given the preference. - -The savages _have_ a crude, undefinable idea of a Deity or Great -Spirit, a Spirit of Good, who never does them harm, and whose home is -in the happy land they hope to reach after death. This happy hereafter, -is supposed by most on the western slope of the Sierras to be located -in the West, while those on the eastern slope or within the Colorado -Basin, in Arizona and in Mexico, locate it in the East. They all have a -superstitious fear of evil spirits, which they believe have the power -to do them great harm, and defeat their undertakings. - -They do not as a rule look to the Great Spirit for immediate protection -from evil, but instead, rely upon amulets, incense and charms, or -“_medicine_” bags. Through these and certain ceremonies of their -priests or “mediums,” they endeavor to protect themselves and their -families from the evil influence of spirits in and out of the flesh. - -They believe that the spirits of the dead who have not, through proper -ceremonies, been released from the body and allowed at once to go to -the happy land, were evil spirits that were doomed to haunt certain -localities. They looked with superstitious awe upon objects and -localities, which to them were of mysterious character. Even familiar -objects were sometimes looked upon as having been taken possession of -by spirits. These spirits it was supposed could do injury to those -who might venture near them without the protection afforded by their -charms, or certain offerings to their priests for indulgences from the -spiritual inhabitants. Streams were often said to be controlled by -spirits, and for this reason, offerings of tobacco and other substances -were at times thrown in as a propitiation for past offenses, or as an -offering for something in expectancy. They believe that the elements -are all under control, or may be used by the more powerful spirits, -and, owing probably to its infrequency in California, lightning seemed -to be an especial object of awe and wonder to them. - -Waterfalls seemed not to engage their attention for their beauty, but -because of the power they manifested; and in none of their objections -made to the abandonment of their home, was there anything said to -indicate any appreciation of the scenery. Their misfortunes, accidents -and failures were generally believed to have resulted from evil -spiritual interference, and to insure success in any undertaking, these -dark or evil spirits must first be conciliated through their “medicine -men,” from whom they obtain absolution. - -All spirits that had not been released and taken their flight to their -happy Western spirit-land were considered as evil; and only the Great -Spirit was believed to be very good. The Indians of the Yosemite -Valley did not look upon Tote-ack-ah-nü-lah as a veritable Deity or -“semi-Deity.” They looked upon this cliff, and the representation -of the likeness of a human face, with the same mysterious awe and -superstitious feeling that they entertained for some other objects; -though perhaps their reverence was in a somewhat higher degree -stimulated by this imposing human appearance; and their ability, -therefore, the better to personify it. They regarded this vast mountain -as an emblem of some mysterious power, beyond their comprehension. -From my knowledge of their _religious belief_, I have come to the -conclusion that their ideas in this direction are wholly spiritual, -without material representation, except as stated, through symbolic -ideas, growing out of their superstitious ignorance, like some ignorant -Christians. They have in imagination peopled the rocks and mountains, -woods and valleys, streams and waterfalls with innumerable spiritual -occupants, possessed of supernatural or spiritual powers, none of which -are believed by them to equal the power of the Great Spirit whose home -is in the West, and who prohibits the return of the evil ones, until a -probationary existence here upon this earth shall have given them such -knowledge of and disgust with evil as will fit them for the enjoyment -of good. - -The special inconsistency of this belief seems to be, that if one -of these demons can lure any one to destruction, the victim will be -compelled to take the place and occupation of the evil spirit, who -is at once liberated and takes its flight to join its family or such -members of it, as are already with the blessed. This idea seemed to be -based upon the natural selfishness of human nature, that would gladly -fix its responsibilities and sufferings upon another. A writer in -his descriptions of the Yosemite says: “The savage lowers his voice -to a whisper, and crouches tremblingly past Po-ho-no, while the very -utterance of the name is so dreaded by him, that the discoverers of the -valley obtained it with difficulty.” These statements were prefaced -by the assertion that “Po-ho-no is an evil spirit of the Indians’ -mythology.” On our second visit to the valley, it will be remembered, -we found huts built by the Yosemites not far from the Po-ho-no Fall. - -I never found any difficulty in learning the name of this fall, or -observed any more fear of spirits exhibited at this fall than at the -Yosemite fall; but in later years, for causes that will appear in the -course of this narrative, the little meadow and detached rocks west of -Po-ho-no, and near to the foot of the Mariposa trail; became haunted -ground to the remnant of the band, for disaster and death followed the -commission of crime at that locality. - -Savages are seldom able to trace to themselves the cause of misfortune, -and hence evil spirits must bear the burden of their complaint. For -this service they are well paid through their representatives, the -“medicine men.” I have often been amused, and agreeably entertained -while listening to their traditionary literature. - -Among the Chippewa and Dahcota tribes, my likeness to a brother, -who was a trader, was recognized, and many times I was honored by a -prominent place being given me in their lodges and at their dances. -Some of their mysteries I was not permitted to witness, but the -consecration of the ground for the dance, which is performed with great -ceremony, I have several times seen, and had its signification fully -explained to me. The ceremony differs but little among the different -tribes, and consists of invocations, burning incense, scattering -down, feathers and evergreens upon the pathway or floor of the dance, -lighting of the sacred fires with their ancient fire-sticks, which are -still preserved among the priests, and repeating certain cabalistic -words, the meaning of which they do not even pretend to understand, -but which are supposed to have a most potent influence. They also -have their pantomimes and romances, which they repeat to each other -like children. This legendary literature is largely imaginative, but -I found the California Indians less poetical in thought and feeling -than eastern tribes, and less musical, though perhaps as primitively -figurative in expression. - -Though seemingly unimpressed by their sublime surroundings, their -figures and comparisons, when not objectionable, were beautiful, -because natural. The Pai-ute and Mono Colony originally established -by Ten-ie-ya, was the result of a desire to improve their physical -condition. They were attached to this valley as a home. The -instinctive attraction that an Indian has for his place of nativity -is incomprehensible; it is more than a religious sentiment; it is a -passion. Here, sheltered in a measure from the storms of winter, and -the burning heat of summer, they met as in an earthly paradise, to -exchange the products of either side of the Sierras, to engage in a -grand hunt and festival offer up religious sacrifices, and awaken the -echoes of the valley with their vociferous orations. Should their skill -fail them in the chase, and the mountain or brook refuse their luscious -offerings, they had a never-failing resource in the skill with which -they could dispossess the native Californian, or the newly arrived -immigrant of his much prized herds, and _translate_ them to their -mountain home. Nor was there need of herd-men to guard their fleecy -flocks or roving herds, for the prancing horse or gentle kine, having -once been slid over the slippery gateway, avoided the obstruction ever -after; and remained contented in their fields of blue grass and clover. - -[Illustration: THE INDIAN BELLE.] - -But, when the influence of the “golden era” finally reached this once -blissfully ignorant people, and wants were created that their belles -and beaux had never known before, their imaginations excited by the -superfluities of civilization, their natural cunning came at once to -their aid, and lo! the “honest miner” or timid Chinaman contributed -from their scanty stores and wardrobes, or the poorly sheltered goods -of the mountain trader opened their canvas walls to the keen arguments -of their flinty knives, and wants real or fancied were at once supplied. - -What then was there lacking, to make the Yosemites a happy people, -removed as they were from the bad influences of whiskey and the white -man’s injustice? Only this: “the whites would not let them alone.” So -Ten-ie-ya had said, as if aggrieved. Like all his race, and perhaps -like all ignorant, passionate and willful persons, he appeared -unconscious of his own wrong-doing, and of the inevitable fate that he -was bringing upon himself and his people. - -In his talk with Major Savage, he had spoken of the verdure clothing -the valley, as sufficient for his wants, but at the time, knowing that -acorns formed the staple of their food, and that clover, grass, sorrel -and the inner bark of trees were used to guard against biliousness -and eruptive diseases, little heed was given to his declaration. Now, -however, that we saw the valley clothed with exquisite and useful -verdure, for June was now at hand, Ten-ie-ya’s remarks had a greater -significance, and we could understand how large flocks and herds had -been stolen, and fattened to supply their wants. The late claimants to -this lovely locality, “this great moral show,” have been relieved of -their charge by act of Congress, and fifty thousand dollars given them -for their claims. It will probably now remain forever free to visitors. -The builders of the toll roads and trails should also receive fair -compensation for their pioneer labors in building them, that they may -also be free to all. When this is done, this National Park will be -esteemed entirely worthy of this great republic and of the great golden -State that has accepted its guardianship.[18] - -Perhaps no one can better than myself realize the value of the labors -performed by the early pioneers, that has made it possible for tourists -to visit in comfort some of the most prominent objects of interest; but -“_a National Park_” should be entirely free. In suggesting a new name -for the fall of Too-lool-lo-we-ack, or the absurd “Illiluette,” I wish -to honor Mr. Muir for his intelligent explorations and discoveries, and -at the same time feel that the word glacier is the most appropriate. Of -this, however, the residents of the valley will judge. - -The names of the different objects and localities of especial interest -have now become well established by use. It is not a matter of so -much surprise that there is such a difference in the orthography of -the names. I only wonder that they have been retained in a condition -to be recognized. It is not altogether the fault of the interpreters -that discrepancies exist in interpretation or pronunciation, although -both are often undesignedly warped to conform to the ideality of the -interpreter. Many of the names have been modernized and adorned with -_transparencies_ in order to illuminate the subject of which the -parties were writing. Those who once inhabited this region, and gave -distinctive appellations, have all disappeared. The names given by -them can be but indifferently preserved or counterfeited by their camp -followers, the “California Diggers;” but June is now with us, and we -must hasten on to our work of following up the trail. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - - A Mountain Storm--Delay of Supplies--Clams and Ipecac--Arrival of - Train--A Cute Indian--Indian Sagacity--A Dangerous Weapon--Capture of - Indian Village--An Eloquent Chief--Woman’s Rights _versus_ Squaw’s - Wrongs--A Disturbed Family--A Magnificent Sunrise--On a Slippery - Slope--Sentiment and Poetry--Arrival at the Fresno. - - -A mountain storm raged with such violence as to stampede the mules -of the pack-train while the escort were encamped on the South Fork. -The mules were not overtaken until they reached the foot-hills of the -Fresno. In the meantime, while impatiently awaiting their return, our -rations gave out. In order to somewhat appease our hunger, Dr. Black -distributed his hospital stores among us. There were some canned fruits -and meats, and several cans of oysters and clams. The southerners of -the command waived their rights to the clams, but cast lots for the -oysters. Thinking we had a prize in the clams, we brought to bear our -early recollections of Eastern life, and compounded a most excellent -and, what we supposed would be, a most nourishing soup. Our enjoyment, -however, of this highly prized New England dish was of short duration; -for from some cause, never satisfactorily explained by Dr. Black, _or -other eminent counsel_, our Eastern mess, as if moved by one impulse -of re-gurgitation, _gave up their clams_. Fortunately for us our -supplies arrived the next morning; for the game procurable was not -sufficient for the command. Major Savage sent Cow-chitty, a brother -of Pon-wat-chee, the chief of the Noot-choo band, whose village we -surprised before we discovered the valley, as chief of scouts. He was -accompanied by several young warriors, selected because they were -all familiar with the Sierra Nevada trails and the territory of the -Pai-utes, where it was thought probable the expedition would penetrate. - -Captain Boling had in his report to Major Savage, complained of -the incapacity of Sandino as guide, and expressed the opinion that -he stood in awe of Ten-ie-ya. By letter, the Major replied, and -particularly advised Captain Boling that implicit confidence could -be placed in Cow-chitty and his scouts, as the sub-chief was an old -enemy of Ten-ie-ya, and was esteemed for his sagacity and wood-craft, -which was superior to that of any Indian in his tribe. Captain Boling -had improved in health and strength, and concluded to venture on -his contemplated expedition over the mountains. He at once ordered -preparations to be made. A camp-guard was detailed, and a special -supply train fitted out. All was ready for a start in the morning. -During the evening Captain Boling consulted our new guide as to what -trail would be best to follow to the Mono pass and over the mountains. -Cow-chitty had already learned from our Po-ho-no scouts and those of -his own tribe, the extent of our explorations, and had had a long talk -with Sandino as well as with Ten-ie-ya. The mission Indian and the -old chief tried to make the new guide believe that the Yosemites had -gone over the mountains to the Monos. Indian-like, he had remained -very grave and taciturn, while the preparations were going on for the -expedition. Now, however, that he was consulted by Captain Boling, he -was willing enough to give his advice, and in a very emphatic manner -declared his belief to the Captain that Ten-ie-ya’s people were not far -off; that they were either hiding in some of the rocky cañons in the -vicinity of the valley, or in those of the Tuolumne, and discouraged -the idea of attempting the expedition with horses. Although this -did not coincide with the views of our Captain, the earnestness of -Cow-chitty decided him to make another attempt in the near vicinity -before crossing the mountains. The horses and supply-train were -accordingly left in camp, and we started at daylight on foot, with -three days’ rations packed in our blankets. We left the valley this -time by way of the Py-we-ack cañon, and ascended the north cliff trail, -a short distance above “Mirror Lake.” Soon after reaching the summit, -Indian signs were discovered near the trail we were on. The old trail -up the slope of the cañon, was here abandoned, and the fresh trail -followed up to and along the ridges just below the snow line. These -signs and the tortuous course pursued, were similar to the tracks -followed on our trip up Indian Cañon, and were as easily traced until -we reached an elevation almost entirely covered with snow from five to -ten feet deep, except on exposed tops of ridges, where the snow had -blown off to the north side or melted away. - -I had accompanied our guide in advance of the command, but observing -that our course was a zig-zag one, some times almost doubling on our -trail, I stopped and told the guide to halt until the Captain came -up. He had been following the ridges without a sign of a trail being -visible, although he had sometimes pointed to small pieces of coarse -granite on the rocky divides, which he said had been displaced by -Ten-ie-ya’s scouts. That in going out or returning from their camps, -they had kept on the rocky ridges, and had avoided tracking the snow or -soft ground, so as to prevent the Americans from following them. As we -stopped, he called me a little out of hearing of those with me, and by -pantomime and a few words indicated his belief in the near presence of -Indians. - -When the Captain came up he said: “The hiding-place of the Yosemites -is not far off. If they had crossed the mountains their scouts would -not be so careful to hide their trail. They would follow the old trail -if they came to watch you, because it is direct, and would only hide -their tracks when they were again far from the valley and near their -rancheria.” This was, in part, an answer to Captain Boling’s inquiry -as to why we had left the old trail, and gone so far out of our way. -I explained to him what Cow-chitty had stated, and pointed out what -the guide or scout said was a fresh trail. The Captain looked tired -and disheartened, but with a grim smile said: “That may be a fresh -Indian track, but I can’t see it. If left to my own feelings and -judgment, I should say we were on another wild-goose chase. If the -guide can see tracks, and thinks he has got ’em this time, I reckon -it is better to follow on; but if there is any short-cut tell him to -give us some landmarks to go by; for I find I am not as strong as I -thought. Let us take another look at this _fresh_ trail, and then -you may get Cow-chitty’s idea as to the probable course this trail -will take further on.” As we moved up the trail a little farther, the -expert scout pointed out more fresh signs, but Captain Boling failed to -discern a trail, and gave up the examination, and as he seated himself -for a momentary rest, said: “I reckon it is all right, Doc. The Major -says in his letter that I can bet on Cow-chitty every time. But I can’t -see any more of a trail on this rocky ridge than I can see the trail of -that wood-pecker as he flies through the air, but I have some faith in -instinct, for I reckon that is what it is that enables him to follow a -trail that he imagines should be there. We shall have to trust him to -follow it, and let him have his own way as you would a fox-hound; if he -don’t, puppy-like, take the back track, or run wild with us over some -of these ledges.” Old Ten-ie-ya was now appealed to for information -concerning the fresh signs, but he only reiterated his former statement -that his people had gone over the mountains to the Monos, and the signs -he said were those of Tuolumne Indians. Captain Boling had taken the -old chief along with us on this trip, hoping to make him of some use, -if not directly as guide, indirectly; it was thought he might betray -his people’s hiding-place. But the Captain was disappointed in this, -for no finished gamester ever displayed a more immovable countenance -than did Ten-ie-ya when questioned at any time during the expedition. A -cord had again been placed around his waist to secure his allegiance, -and as we were about to move ahead once more, he very gravely said that -if we followed the signs, they would take us over to the Tuolumne. - -Before this Sandino had professed to agree with Ten-ie-ya, but now he -carefully withheld his own opinions, and as carefully rendered his -interpretations. He feared Cow-chitty more than Ten-ie-ya; and he was -frequently seen to cross himself while muttering his prayers. Spencer -and myself re-assured the timid creature, and made him quite happy -by telling him that we would guard him against the “Gentiles,” as he -called the natives. - -I explained to Cow-chitty our inability to follow the tracks as he -did over the bare granite. This flattered him, and he then pointed -out his own method of doing so, which was simple enough with one of -keen sight. It consisted entirely in discovering fragments of stone -and moss that had been displaced, and broken off and scattered upon -the ground. The upper surface of the broken fragments of stone were -smooth and bleached, while the under surface was dark or colored. It -was impossible to walk over these stony ridges without displacing -some of the fragments, and these the quick eye of Cow-chitty was sure -to discover. Cow-chitty was pleased when told of Captain Boling’s -appreciation of his sagacity, and honored by the confidence the -Captain began to show him. He expressed his gratification by being -more communicative than he had been before. He said, “These signs tell -me that the Yosemite scouts have been watching all the movements of -the Americans, and the trails that will take you to their camps. They -will not look for you on this trail. They are watching for you from -the ridges nearer the valley. We will not have to go far to find their -camps. This trail will lead us to the head of the Py-we-ack, where the -Pai-ute or Mono trail crosses into the upper valley of the Tuolumne; -and if we don’t find them at the lake, we will soon know if they have -crossed the mountains.” - -He then proposed that Captain Boling send out scouts to intercept -and capture the Yosemite scouts, who might be below us watching the -valley. This being interpreted to Captain Boling, he at once adopted -the suggestion of the scout. He selected three of our best runners, -and directed Cow-chitty to select three of his. These were sent out -in pairs--an Indian and a white man. The scouts were placed under -direction of the sub-chief, who followed the trail, and indicated to -the Captain the most direct route for the main body to follow. In -health Captain Boling was athletic and ambitious on the march. He had -now, however, over-estimated his strength, and suffered considerably -from fatigue; but the halt afforded him a rest that very much refreshed -him. I traveled with him during the remainder of the march, so as to -be near him as interpreter, and took charge of Ten-ie-ya. The Captain, -Ten-ie-ya, Sandino and myself traveled together. Our march was more -leisurely than in the earlier part of the day. This allowed Captain -Boling to somewhat recover from his fatigue. - -On an ascending spur that ran down to the Py-we-ack, we found -Cow-chitty quietly awaiting our approach. As we halted, he pointed out -to Captain Boling a dim circle of blue smoke, that appeared to eddy -under the lee of a large granite knob or peak, and said, “Rancheria.” -Old Ten-ie-ya was standing in front of me, but exhibited no interest in -the discovery. As I lowered my line of vision to the base of the cliff, -to trace the source of the smoke, there appeared the Indian village, -resting in fancied security, upon the border of a most beautiful -little lake, seemingly not more than a half mile away. To the lake I -afterwards gave the name of Ten-ie-ya. The granite knob was so bare, -smooth and glistening, that Captain Boling at once pointed it out, and -selected it as a landmark. He designated it as a rallying point for his -men, if scattered in pursuit, and said that we should probably camp -near it for the night. - -While the Captain was studying the nature of the ground before us, -and making his arrangements to capture the village, our scouts were -discovered in full chase of an Indian picket, who was running towards -the village as if his life depended upon his efforts. In the excitement -of the moment Captain Boling ordered us to double-quick and charge, -thinking, as he afterwards said, that the huts could not be much more -than half a mile away. Such a mistake could only originate in the -transparent air of the mountains. The village was fully two miles or -more away. We did, however, double-quick, and I kept a gait that soon -carried Ten-ie-ya and Sandino, with myself, ahead of our scattering -column. Finding the rope with which I held Ten-ie-ya an encumbrance in -our rapid march, I wound it round his shoulder and kept him in front of -me. While passing a steep slope of overlapping granite rock, the old -chief made a sudden spring to the right, and attempted to escape down -the ragged precipice. His age was against him, for I caught him just -as he was about to let himself drop from the projecting ledge to the -ground below; his feet were already over the brink. - -I felt somewhat angered at the trick of the old fellow in attempting to -relieve himself from my custody, and the delay it had occasioned me; -for we had taken the most direct although not the smoothest course. -I resumed our advance at a gait that hurried the old sachem forward, -perhaps less carefully and more rapidly than comported with the dignity -of his years and rank. I was amused at the proposition of one of the -“boys” who had witnessed the transaction, to “shoot the old devil, and -not be bothered with him any more.” I of course declined this humane -proposition to relieve me of further care, and at once became the -chief’s most devoted defender, which observing, he afterwards told -Captain Boling that I was “very good.” As we reached the more gently -descending ground near the bottom of the slope, an Indian came running -up the trail below us that led to the Rancheria. His course was at an -acute angle to the one pursued by us toward the village, which was -now but a few rods off. I ordered Sandino to cut him off and capture -him before he should reach the camp. This was accomplished with great -energy and a good degree of pride. - -The Yosemites had already discovered our approach, but too late for -any concerted resistance or for successful escape, for Lt. Crawford at -the head of a portion of the command, dashed at once into the center -of the encampment, and the terror-stricken Indians immediately threw -up their bare hands in token of submission, and piteously cried out -“pace! pace!” (peace, peace). As I halted to disarm the scout captured -by Sandino, I was near enough to the camp to hear the expressions of -submission. I was compelled to laugh at the absurd performances of -Sandino, who to terrify his prisoner, was persistently holding in -his face an old double-barreled pistol. I was aware the weapon was a -harmless one, for one hammer was gone, and the other could not be -made to explode a cap. I took the bow and arrows from the frightened -savage, and as Captain Boling came up I reported the capture, telling -him at the same time of the surrender of the village or Rancheria to -Lt. Crawford. Seeing some of the Indians leaving the camp, and running -down the lake to a trail crossing its outlet, the Captain and the men -with him sprang forward through the grove of pines near the crossing, -and drove them back. No show of resistance was offered, neither did any -escape from us. - -While Captain Boling was counting his prisoners and corralling them -with a guard, I, by his previous order, restrained Ten-ie-ya from any -communication with his people. The chief of this village was a young -man of perhaps thirty years of age. When called upon by the Captain to -state how many were under his command, he answered that those in the -encampment were all that was left; the rest had scattered and returned -to the tribes they sprung from. Ten-ie-ya seemed very anxious to answer -the interrogations made to the young chief, but Captain Boling would -not allow his farther interference, and jokingly told me to send him -over among the women who were grouped a little aside, as he was now -about as harmless. I acted upon the suggestion, and upon his being told -that he had the liberty of the camp if he made no further attempts to -escape, the old fellow stepped off briskly to meet his four squaws, -who were with this band, and who seemed as pleased as himself at their -re-union. - -Captain Boling felt satisfied that the answer given by this -half-starved chief, and the few braves of his wretched looking band, -were as truthful as their condition would corroborate. Finding -themselves so completely surprised, notwithstanding their extreme -vigilance, and comparing the well kept appearance of their old chief -with their own worn out, dilapidated condition, they with apparent -anxiety expressed a willingness for the future to live in peace with -the Americans. All hopes of avoiding a treaty, or of preventing their -removal to the Reservation, appeared to have at once been abandoned; -for when the young chief was asked if he and his band were willing -to go to the Fresno, he replied with much emotion of gesture, and as -rendered by Sandino to Spencer and myself: “Not only willing, but -anxious;” for, said he: “Where can we now go that the Americans will -not follow us?” As he said this, he stretched his arms out toward the -East, and added: “Where can we make our homes, that you will not find -us?” He then went on and stated that they had fled to the mountains -without food or clothing; that they were worn out from watching our -scouts, and building _signal-fires_ to tire us out also. - -They had been anxious to embroil us in trouble by drawing us into the -cañons of the Tuolumne, where were some Pai-utes wintering in a valley -like Ah-wah-ne. They had hoped to be secure in this retreat until the -snow melted, so that they could go to the Mono tribe and make a home -with them, but that now he was told the Americans would follow them -even there, he was willing, with all his little band, to go to the -plains with us. After the young chief had been allowed full liberty of -speech, and had sat down, Ten-ie-ya again came forward, and would have -doubtless made a _confession of faith_, but his speech was cut short -by an order from Captain Boling to at once move camp to a beautiful -pine grove on the north side of the outlet to the lake, which he had -selected for our camping-place for the night. By this order he was able -to have everything in readiness for an early start the next morning. -There was an abundance of dry pine, convenient for our camp fires, and -as the night was exceedingly cold, the glowing fires were a necessity -to our comfort. The Indians were told to pack such movables as they -desired to take with them, and move down at once to our camp-ground. - -The scene was a busy one. The squaws and children exhibited their -delight in the prospect of a change to a more genial locality, and -where food would be plenty. While watching the preparations of the -squaws for the transfer of their household treasures and scanty stores, -my attention was directed to a dark object that appeared to be crawling -up the base of the first granite peak above their camp. The polished -surface of the gleaming rock made the object appear larger than the -reality. We were unable to determine what kind of an animal it could -be; but one of our scouts, to whom the name of “Big Drunk” had been -given, pronounced it a papoose, although some had variously called it -a bear, a fisher or a coon. “Big Drunk” started after it, and soon -returned with a bright, active boy, entirely naked, which he coaxed -from his slippery perch. Finding himself an object of curiosity his -fright subsided, and he drew from its hiding-place, in the bushes near -by, a garment that somewhat in shape, at least, resembled a man’s -shirt. “_The Glistening Rocks_” had rendered us all oblivious to the -color, and that was left undetermined. This garment swept the ground -after he had clothed himself with it. His ludicrous appearance excited -our laughter, and as if pleased with the attentions paid to him, the -little fellow joined heartily in the merriment he occasioned. It will -not be out of place to here relate the sequel of this boy’s history. -Learning that he was an orphan and without relatives, Captain Boling -adopted him, calling him “Reube,” in honor of Lt. Reuben Chandler, who -after Captain Boling was the most popular man in the battalion. - -Some three or four years afterward, the boy, as if to illustrate the -folly of the Captain in trying to civilize and educate him, ran away -from his patron, taking with him two valuable, thorough-bred Tennessee -horses, much prized by the Captain; besides money, clothing and arms -belonging to the Captain’s brother-in-law, Col. Lane, of Stockton, -in whose charge Captain Boling had placed him, that he might have -the advantages of a good school. After collecting together all the -Indians found in this encampment; the total number was found to be but -thirty-five, nearly all of whom were in some way a part of the family -of the old patriarch, Ten-ie-ya. These were escorted to our camp, the -men placed under guard, but the women and children were left free. - -This was accomplished before sun down, and being relieved of duty, a -few of us ran across the outlet of the lake, and climbing the divide -on the south side of the lake, beheld a sunset view that will long -be remembered. It was dark when we reached camp, and after a scanty -repast, we spread our blankets, and soon were wrapped in slumber sweet. - -We were awakened by the cold, which became more uncomfortable as night -advanced, and finding it impossible to again compose ourselves to -sleep, Captain Boling aroused the camp, and preparations were made by -the light of the blazing camp-fires for an early start for the valley. -Desiring some clean, fresh water, I went to the lake as the nearest -point to obtain it, when, to my surprise, I found that the new ice -formed during the night and connecting the old ice with the shore of -the lake, was strong enough to bear me up. At a point where the old ice -had drifted near, I went out some distance upon it, and it appeared -strong enough to have borne up a horse. This was about the 5th of June, -1851. The change of temperature from summer in the valley to winter -on the mountains, without shelter, was felt by us all. After a hasty -breakfast, the word was passed to assemble, and we were soon all ready -for the order to march. All at once there was turmoil and strife in -camp, and what sounded to my ears very much like a Chinese concert. -Captain Boling was always a man of gallantry, and in this instance -would not allow the squaws to take the burden of the baggage. Hence the -confusion and delay. He ordered the Indians to carry the packs--burdens -they had imposed on their women. This order brought down upon him -the vituperations of the squaws and sullen murmurs from the “noble -red men;” as often happens in domestic interference, _the family was -offended_. Ten-ie-ya rose to explain, and waxed eloquent in his protest -against this innovation on their ancient customs. - -As soon as the Captain was made aware of the old fellow’s object -in having “a talk,” he cut short the debate by ordering one of the -lieutenants to see that every Indian, as well as squaw, was properly -loaded with a just proportion of their burdens. The real object of the -Captain was to facilitate the return to the valley, by making it easy -for the squaws and children to accompany us through without delays. -One amusing feature in this arrangement was, that long after the men -had been silenced, their squaws continued to murmur at the indignity -practiced on their disgraced lords. I have my doubts, even to this -day, whether the standard of women’s rights was ever again _waved_ -among the mountain tribes after this “special order” was issued by our -good-hearted Captain. - -In order to take the most direct route to the valley, Captain Boling -selected one of the young Yosemite Indians to lead the way with our -regular guide. Being relieved of the charge of Ten-ie-ya, I took my -usual place on the march with the guide. This position was preferred -by me, because it afforded ample opportunity for observation and time -for reflection; and beside, it was in my nature to be in advance. -The trail followed, after leaving the lake, led us over bare granite -slopes and hidden paths, but the distance was materially shortened. A -short distance below the bottom land of the lake, on the north side -of the cañon and at the head of the gorge, the smooth, sloping granite -projects like a vast roof over the abyss below. As we approached this, -our young guide pointed toward it. - -By close observation I was able to discover that the trail led up its -sloping surface, and was assured by the guide that the trail was a -good one. I felt doubtful of the Captain’s willingness to scale that -rocky slope, and halted for him to come up. The Captain followed the -trail to its termination in the soil, and saw the cause of my having -halted. Upon the discoloration of the rock being pointed out as the -continuation of the trail, he glanced up the granite slope and said, -“Go on, but be watchful, for a slide into the gorge would bring as -certain death as a slide from that San Joaquin trail, which I have not -yet forgotten.” Some of the command did not fancy this any more than -they did the Ten-ie-ya trail down “Indian Cañon.” We all pulled off -our hoots and went up this slope bare-footed. Seeing there was no real -danger, the most timid soon moved up as fearless as the others. I, with -the advance, soon reached the soil above, and at the top halted until -the Indians and our straggling column closed up. As I looked about me, -I discovered, unfolding to my sight, one of the most charming views -in this sublimest scenery of nature. During the day before, we had -looked with astonishment on the almost boundless peaks, and snow-capped -mountains, to be seen from the Mt. Hoffman divide. But here some of the -same views appeared illuminated. In our ascent up the mountain, we had -apparently met the rising sun. The scene was one long to be remembered -for its brilliancy, although not describable. - -Mr. Addison, in the _Spectator_, says: “Our imagination loves to be -filled with an object, or to grasp at anything that is too big for its -capacity. We are flung into a pleasing astonishment at such unbounded -views, and feel a delightful stillness and amazement in the soul.” Mr. -Addison has here expressed the feelings entertained by some of us, as -the view met our gaze while looking out to the east, the south and the -west. Although not sufficiently elevated to command a general outlook, -the higher ridges framing some of the scenery to the north and eastward -of us, the westerly view was boundless. The transparency of the -atmosphere was here extreme, and as the sun illumined the snow-clad and -ice-burnished peaks, the scene aroused the enthusiasm of the command to -a shout of glad surprise. - -The recollections of the discomforts of the night were banished by -the glory of the morning as here displayed. Even the beauties of the -Yosemite, of which I was so ardent an admirer, were for the moment -eclipsed by this gorgeously grand and changing scene. The aurora that -had preceded the rising sun was as many-hued, and if possible more -glorious, than the most vivid borealis of the northern climes. But when -the sun appeared, seemingly like a sudden flash, amidst the distant -peaks, the climax was complete. My opportunities for examining the -mountain scenery of the Sierra Nevada above the immediate vicinity of -the Yosemite, were such as to only enable me to give a somewhat general -description, but the views that I had during our explorations afforded -me glimpses of the possibilities of sublime mountain scenery, such -as I had never before comprehended, although familiar with the views -afforded from some of the peaks of Mexico and of the Rocky Mountains. -I doubt even if the Yellow Stone, supreme in some of its attractions, -affords such varied and majestic beauty. - -Looking back to the lovely little lake, where we had been encamped -during the night, and watching Ten-ie-ya as he ascended to our group, I -suggested to the Captain that we name the lake after the old chief, and -call it “Lake Ten-ie-ya.” The Captain had fully recovered from his -annoyance at the scene in camp, and readily consented to the name, but -added that I had evidently mistaken my vocation. - -[Illustration: LAKE TEN-IE-YA, ONE OF THE YOSEMITE FOUNTAINS.] - -Noticing my look of surprise, he jokingly said that if I had only -studied divinity instead of medicine, I could have then fully gratified -my passion for christening. This, of course, brought out a general -guffaw, and thinking me annoyed, he said: “Gentlemen, I think the name -an appropriate one, and shall use it in my report of the expedition. -Beside this, it is rendering a kind of justice to perpetuate the name -of the old chief.” - -When Ten-ie-ya reached the summit, he left his people and approached -where the Captain and a few of us were halting. Although he had been -snubbed by the Captain that morning, he now seemed to have forgotten -it, and his rather rugged countenance glowed with healthful exercise -in the sunlight. I had handled him rather roughly the day before, but -as he now evidently wished to be friendly, I called him up to us, and -told him that we had given his name to the lake and river. At first, he -seemed unable to comprehend our purpose, and pointing to the group of -Glistening peaks, near the head of the lake, said: “It already has a -name; we call it Py-we-ack.” Upon my telling him that we had named it -Ten-ie-ya, because it was upon the shores of the lake that we had found -his people, who would never return to it to live, his countenance fell -and he at once left our group and joined his own family circle. His -countenance as he left us indicated that he thought the naming of the -lake no equivalent for the loss of his territory. - -I never at any time had real personal dislike for the old sachem. -He had always been an object of study, and I sometimes found in him -profitable entertainment. As he moved off to hide his sorrow, I pitied -him. As we resumed our march over the rough and billowy trail, I was -more fully impressed with the appropriateness of the name for the -beautiful lake. Here, probably, his people had built their last wigwams -in their mountain home. From this lake we were leading the last remnant -of his once dreaded tribe, to a territory from which it was designed -they should never return as a people. My sympathies, confirmed in my -own mind, a justness in thus perpetuating the name of Ten-ie-ya. The -Indian name for this lake, branch and cañon, “Py-we-ack” is, although a -most appropriate one, now displaced by that of the old chief Ten-ie-ya. -Of the signification of the name Ten-ie-ya, I am uncertain; but as -pronounced by himself, I have no doubt of its being pure Indian. - -The whole mountain region of the water-sheds of the Merced and Tuolumne -rivers afford the most delightful views to be seen anywhere of -mountains, cliffs, cascades and waterfalls, grand forests and mountain -meadows, and the Soda Springs are yet destined to become a favorite -summer resort. Mr. Muir has well said that the “upper Tuolumne valley -is the widest, smoothest, most serenely spacious, and in every way the -most delightful summer pleasure park in all the High Sierras.” - -Now that it has become a part of the new National Park surrounding the -old grant (see new map), and good trails reach it, wagon roads will -soon be extended into the very “heart of the Sierras.” - -We reached our camp in the valley without accident. Captain Boling at -once gave orders to make preparations for our return to the Fresno. The -next day we broke camp and moved down to the lower end of the valley -near where we camped on the first night of our discovery, near the -little meadow at the foot of the Mariposa Trail. - -At sunrise the next morning, or rather as the reflections on the cliffs -indicated sunrise, we commenced our ascent of the steep trail. As I -reached the height of land where the moving column would soon perhaps -forever shut out from view the immortal “Rock Chief,” my old sympathies -returned, and leaving the command to pursue its heedless way, I climbed -to my old perch where Savage had warned me of danger. As I looked back -upon El Capitan, his bald forehead was cooling in the breeze that swept -by me from the “_Summer land_” _below_, and his cheerful countenance -reflected back the glory of the rising sun. Feeling my own inferiority -while acknowledging the majesty of the scene, I looked back from Mt. -Beatitude, and quoting from Byron, exclaimed: - - Yosemite! - “Thy vale(s) of evergreen, thy hills of snow - Proclaim thee Nature’s varied favorite now.” - -We reached the Fresno without the loss of a captive, and as we turned -them over to the agent, we were formally commended for the success of -the expedition. - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - - The Flora of the Region of the Yosemite--General Description of the - Valley and its Principal Points of Interest, with their Heights. - - -A marked and peculiar feature observed in the landscape of the -Merced River slopes, while going to the Yosemite, especially on the -Coultersville route, is the dense growth of the chamiso and the -manzanita. These shrubs are found most abundant below the altitude -of the growth of sugar-pine, upon dry, slaty ground; though a larger -variety of manzanita, distinguishable by its larger blossoms and fruit, -and its love of shade and moist clay-slate soil, may be found growing -even among the sugar-pine. A peculiarity of this shrub is, that like -the Madroña and some trees in Australia, it sheds a portion of its -outer bark annually, leaving its branches beautifully bright and clean. -The manzanita, when in full bloom, is one of the most beautiful of -shrubs; its delicately tinted and fragrant blossoms filling the air -with the perfume of an apple-orchard, while its rich evergreen leaves -are only shed as others put forth. The name, manzanita, is Spanish, -signifying little apple--the fruit in flavor, but more especially in -smell, resembling the apple. - -These chamiso and manzanita thickets are almost impenetrable to large -animals, except the California lion and grizzly bear. At certain -seasons of the year, during their trips to and from the High Sierras, -when the berries are ripe, these coverts are the resort of such -visitors. The grizzly comes to indulge his fondness for the little -apples, and the lion (how hath the mighty fallen!) to feed upon the -wood-rats, mice and rabbits that he surprises in these furzy thickets. -Occasionally a deer, as he comes along unconscious of danger, but too -near the feline lair, is pounced upon by the lion, or perhaps a stray -horse or mule may fall a victim; but in no case dare the lion attack -his savage associate the bear, or any of his progeny. - -In going to the Yosemite by way of the Mariposa route, after reaching -the summit of the gap or pass in the “Black Ridge” or Chow-chilla -mountain, over which the Mariposa route passes, to the South Fork of -the Merced River, the yellow pine, the sugar pine, the Douglass fir -and two other species of fir, are seen in all their glory. Here, too, -is to be found the variety of white or yellow cedar (_Libo cedrus -decurrens_), growing to a size not seen at a less altitude, unless -perhaps on the north side of some spur from these mountains. If the -ridge be followed to the right as far as the Big Trees, instead of -descending the road to the South Fork, some very large pine, cedar -and fir trees will be seen, in addition to the great attraction, the -Sequoia. - -At the time I first passed over this route there was but a dim Indian -trail; now, a very good stage or wagon-road occupies it. As the descent -to the South Fork is commenced, dogwood will be observed growing at -the head of a little mountain brook that has its source in the pass, -together with willows and other small growths of trees and shrubs. The -“bush-honeysuckle,” when in bloom, is here especially beautiful; and -several fragrant-blossomed shrubs will attract attention--the kalmia, -especially. The forest on this route is equaled by few in California, -and it extends to the Yosemite almost uninterrupted, except by the -river and a few mountain meadows. The Coultersville route also affords -like views of uninterrupted forest, even to the verge of the valley, -but confined as the trail was when it was first made to the narrow -divide, one could not so well appreciate the beauty of the trees while -looking down upon their tops as he would while riding among them. A few -sequoias can be seen on this route, near Hazel Green and near Crane -Flat. - -Mr. Greeley says: “The Sierra Nevadas lack the glorious glaciers, the -frequent rains, the rich verdure, the abundant cataracts of the Alps, -but they far surpass them; they surpass any other mountains I ever saw, -in wealth and grace of trees. Look down from almost any of their peaks, -and your range of vision is filled, bounded, satisfied, by what might -be termed a tempest-tossed sea of evergreens, filling every upland -valley, covering every hillside, crowning every peak but the highest -with their unfading luxuriance. - -“That I saw, during this day’s travel, many hundreds of pines eight -feet in diameter, with cedars at least six feet, I am confident; and -there were miles of such and smaller trees of like genus, standing as -thick as they could grow. Steep mountain sides, allowing these giants, -to grow rank above rank, without obstructing each other’s sunshine, -seem peculiarly favorable to the production of these serviceable -giants. But the summit meadows are peculiar in their heavy fringe of -balsam fir of all sizes, from those barely one foot high to those -hardly less than two hundred; their branches surrounding them in -collars, their extremities gracefully bent down by weight of winter -snows, making them here, I am confident, the most beautiful trees on -earth. The dry promontories which separate these meadows are also -covered with a species of spruce, which is only less graceful than the -firs aforesaid. I never before enjoyed such a tree-feast as on this -wearying, difficult ride.” - -Had Mr. Greeley taken more time, it would not have been so wearying to -himself or mule. He rode sixty miles, on one mule the day he went to -the Yosemite, but his observations of what he saw are none the less -just and valuable, though but few of the pine trees will measure eight -feet in diameter. It is true, probably, that few forests in the United -States are so dense and beautiful in variety as those seen on the old -Mariposa route to the Yosemite by way of the meadows of the Pohono -Summit. About these meadows the firs especially attract attention, -from the uniform or geometrical regularity their branches assume. -No landscape gardener could produce such effects as are here freely -presented by the Great Architect of the universe for the admiration -of his wayward children. Here in this region will also be found the -California tamarack pine, and a variety of pine somewhat resembling -the Norway pine, called Pinus Jeffreyi. There is still another pine, -to be found only on the highest ridges and mountains, that may be said -to mark the limit of arbol vegetation; this dwarf is known as _pinus -albicaulis_, and could it but adapt itself to a lower altitude, and -retain its dense and tangled appearance, it would make good hedge-rows. - -Professor Whitney speaks of still another one of the pine family, -growing about the head of King’s and Kern Rivers, which he calls -_pinus aristata_, and says it only grows on those highest peaks of the -Sierras, although it is also found in the Rocky Mountains. Of the more -noticeable undergrowth of these mountain forests and their borders, -besides grasses, sedges, ferns, mosses, lichens, and various plants -that require a better knowledge of botany than I possess to describe -properly, may be mentioned the California lilac and dogwood, the latter -of which is frequently seen growing along the mountain streams, and in -the Yosemite. It grows in conjunction with alder, willow, poplar, or -balm of Gilead, and a species of buckthorn. In isolated patches the -Indian arrow-wood is found. This wood is almost without pith, and warps -but little in drying. For these qualities and the uniformity of its -growth, it was especially esteemed for arrow-shafts; although sprouts -from other shrubs and trees were also used. - -It will have been observed, while going to the Yosemite, that the -chimaso, white-oak and digger-pine are upon the southern slopes, -while the thickets of mountain-ash, shrub or Oregon maple, and shrub -live-oak, chinquepin and trailing blue and white ceanothus and snow -plant are found upon the north side of the ridges, except when found at -a greater altitude than is usual for their growth. On descending into -the Yosemite, the visitor will at once notice and welcome the variety -of foliage. - -Upon the highest lands grow pine, fir, cedar, spruce, oak and shrubs. -In the meadows and upon open ground, according to the richness of the -soil and moisture, will be seen flowers and flowering shrubs of great -brilliancy and variety. - -The whole valley had the appearance of park-like grounds, with trees, -shrubbery, flowers and lawns. The larger trees, pines, firs, etc., are -of smaller growth than are usually found on the mountain slopes and -tables. Still, some are of fair dimensions, rising probably to the -height of one hundred and fifty feet or more. One large pine, growing -in an alcove upon the wall of Tote-ack-ah-noo-la,--apparently without -soil--is quite remarkable. The balm of gilead, alder, dogwood, willow -and buck-thorn, lend an agreeable variety to the scenery along the -river. Their familiar appearance seem, like old friends, to welcome the -eastern visitor to this strange and remarkable locality. The black-oak -is quite abundant in the valley and upon the slopes below. It was -the source of supply of acorns used by the Yosemites as food, and as -an article of traffic with their less favored neighbors east of the -Sierras. - -Along the river banks and bordering the meadows are found the wild -rose, and where the soil is rich, dry and mellow, the wild sunflower -grows luxuriantly. Of wild fruits, the red raspberry and strawberry are -the only ones worthy of mention, and these are only found in limited -quantities. A thornless red raspberry grows upon the mountains, but its -blossoms are apt to be nipped by frosts and the plant is not a prolific -bearer. - -The meadows of the valley are generally moist, and in the springtime -boggy. Later in the season they become firmer, and some parts of them -where not in possession of sedges, afford an abundant growth of “wild -Timothy;” blue joint, Canada red-top and clover. In addition to these -nutritious meadow-grasses, there is growing on the coarse granite, -sandy land, a hard, tough wire bunch grass unfit for grazing except -when quite young. This grass is highly prized by the Indians for -making baskets and small mats. Its black seeds were pulverized and -used as food, by being converted into mush, or sometimes it was mixed -with acorn meal and was then made into a kind of gruel. The common -“brake” and many beautiful species of rock ferns and mosses are quite -abundant in the shady parts of the valley, and in the cañons, and -more especially are they found growing within the influence of the -cool, moist air near the falls. Growing in the warm sunlight below -El Capitan, may be seen plants common among the foot hills and slaty -mountains. Of these plants, the manzanita, the bahia confertiflora and -the California poppy are the most conspicuous. - -The climatic and geologic or local influences upon vegetation in this -part of California, is so remarkable as to continually claim the notice -of the tourist, and induce the study of the botanist. So peculiar are -the influences of elevation, moisture, temperature and soil, that if -these be stated, the flora may be determined with almost unerring -certainty, and _vice versa_, if the flora be designated, the rock’s -exposure and mineral character of the soil will be at once inferred. -The extreme summer temperature of the valley rises but little over 80° -Fahrenheit, during the day, while the nights are always cold enough to -make sleeping comfortable under a pair of blankets. - -Thus far in narrating the incidents connected with the discovery of the -Yosemite, I have not been particularly definite in my descriptions of -it. Unconsciously I have allowed myself to assume the position, that -this remarkable locality was familiarly known to every one. - -From the discovery of the valley to the present day, the wonders -of this region of sublimity, have been a source of inspiration to -visitors, but none have been able to describe it to the satisfaction -of those who followed after them. The efforts that are still made -to do so, are conclusive evidences that to the minds of visitors, -their predecessors had failed to satisfactorily describe it to their -comprehensions; and so it will probably continue, as long as time shall -last, for where genius even, would be incompetent, egotism may still -tread _unharmed_. - -Realizing this, and feeling my own utter inability to convey to another -mind any just conception of the impressions received upon first -beholding the valley, I yet feel that a few details and figures should -be given with this volume. Prof. J. D. Whitney in his “Yosemite Guide -Book” says, in speaking of the history of the discovery and settlement -of the Yosemite Valley: “The visit of the soldiers under Captain Boling -led to no immediate results in this direction. Some stories told by -them on their return, found their way into the newspapers; but it was -not until four years later that so far as can be ascertained, any -persons visited the valley for the purpose of examining its wonders, -or as regular pleasure travelers. It is, indeed, surprising that -so remarkable a locality should not sooner have become known; one -would suppose that accounts of its cliffs and waterfalls would have -spread at once all over the country. Probably they did circulate about -California, and were not believed but set down as “travelers’ stories.” -Yet these first visitors seem to have been very moderate in their -statements, for they spoke of the Yosemite Fall as being “more than a -thousand feet high,” thus cutting it down to less than half its real -altitude.” - -At the time of our discovery, and after the subsequent lengthy visit -under Captain Boling, our descriptions of it were received with doubt -by the newspaper world, and with comparative indifference by the -excited and overwrought public of the golden era. The press usually -more than keeps pace with public opinion. Although height and depth -were invariably under-estimated by us, our statements were considered -“too steep” even for the sensational correspondents, and were by them -pronounced exaggerations. These autocrats of public opinion took the -liberty to dwarf our estimates to dimensions more readily swallowed by -their patrons. - -I have made many visits to the Yosemite since “our” long sojourn in it -in 1851, and have since that time furnished many items for the press -descriptive of that vicinity. My recollections of some of these will -be given in another chapter. Although many years have rolled off the -calendar of time since the occurrences related in these chapters, no -material change has affected that locality. Human agency can not alter -the general appearance of these stupendous cliffs and waterfalls. - -The picturesque wildness of the valley has since our first visits been -to a certain degree toned down by the _improvements_ of civilization. -The regions among the foot-hills and mountains that serve as -approaches to the valley, where we hunted for savages to _make peace -with our National Government_, now boasts of its ranchos and other -improvements. The obscure trails which we followed in our explorations, -and on which we first entered, have long since been abandoned, or -merged into roads or other trails used by the proprietors of the -territory in the vicinity. The white man’s civilized improvements -have superseded them. Instead of the stormy bivouacs of our first -visits, or the canvas of our longer stay, the visitor now has the -accommodations of first-class hotels with modern improvements. The -march of civilization has laid low many of the lofty pines and shady -oak trees that once softened the rough grandeur and wildness of -the scenery. Stumps, bridges and ladders now mark the progress of -improvements. These, however, only affect the ornamental appendages of -the scenery--the perishable portion of it alone. The massive granite -walls are invulnerable to modern ingenuity of adornment. The trail over -which we approached the valley on our first visit was below the more -modern trails, and its general course has now been appropriated by the -stage road over which the tourist visits the Yosemite. The rocky slabs -and stretches down which we then slid and scrambled, have since been -graded and improved, so that the descent is made without difficulty. - -The “Mariposa Trail” first approached the verge of the cliffs forming -the south side of the valley, near what is known as “Mount Beatitude,” -or, as the first full view above has been designated, “Inspiration -Point”; which is about 3,000 feet above the level of the valley. In -a direct line from the commencement of the first descent, to where -the trail reaches the valley, the distance is probably less than a -mile, but by the trail, it is nearly four miles in a circuitous zigzag -westerly course. The vertical descent of the trail in that distance is -2,973 feet.[19] - -I have adopted the statistics of measurements given by Prof. Whitney -in his “Yosemite Guide Book” as my standard, so as to be modernly -correct. These statistics were from the State Geological Survey, and -are scientifically reliable. From a point on this descending trail, my -most impressive recollections of a general view were first obtained. My -first sight of the Yosemite was suddenly and unexpectedly unfolded from -its junction with the old Indian trail; the view was made complete by -ascending to a granite table. The first object and the principal point -of attraction to my astonished gaze was “El Capitan,” although its -immensity was far from comprehended, until I became familiar with the -proportions of other prominent features of the valley. After passing it -close to its base, on the next day, I made up my mind that it could not -be less than 1,500 or 2,000 feet above the level of the valley. - -Prof. Whitney in speaking of this object of grandeur and massiveness, -says: “El Capitan is an immense block of granite, projecting squarely -out into the valley, and presenting an almost vertical sharp edge, -3,300 feet in elevation. The sides or walls of the mass are bare, -smooth, and entirely destitute of vegetation. It is almost impossible -for the observer to comprehend the enormous dimensions of this rock, -which in clear weather can be distinctly seen from the San Joaquin -plains at a distance of fifty or sixty miles. Nothing, however, so -helps to a realization of the magnitude of these masses about the -Yosemite as climbing around and among them. Let the visitor begin to -ascend the pile of _debris_ which lies at the base of El Capitan, and -he will soon find his ideas enlarged on the point in question. And yet -these _debris_ piles along the cliffs, and especially under El Capitan, -are of insignificant size compared with the dimensions of the solid -wall itself. They are hardly noticeable in taking a general view of the -valley. El Capitan imposes on us by its stupendous bulk, which seems as -if hewed from the mountain on purpose to stand as the type of eternal -massiveness. - -“It is doubtful if any where in the world there is presented so -squarely cut, so lofty and so imposing a face of rock.” The foregoing -is the most concise and best description of El Capitan I have ever -seen, and yet, it cannot impart the ecstacy of reverence for the -sublime one feels in its presence. - -Another peculiarity of El Capitan, is one that belongs to headlands -that are designated points-no-point; that is the apparent difficulty of -passing them. While passing at a distance, the convexity of the wall -seems to remain immediately opposite the observer. - -From the Mariposa trail as it descends, can be seen most of the -prominent cliffs which form its massive side walls. This trail reaches -the bottom of the valley near its lower extremity. Below this trail, -it narrows to a rocky cañon, almost impassable except for the Merced -river, which leaves the valley through this gorge. I shall again refer -to this cañon in another chapter. - -The valley is about six miles long and from half a mile to over a mile -in width at the head of the valley proper. It is irregular in shape, -but its general direction is nearly east towards its upper end. Its -outlines will be better understood from a view of the accompanying -map, which has been mostly copied from that of the State Geological -Survey--Prof. Whitney’s. The three cañons which open into the valley -at its upper end, are so intimately connected with it that a general -description will include them all, particularly the parts of them in -close proximity to the valley. They will be specially described when -reached. - -The sides of the valley are walls of a grayish-white granite, which -becomes a dazzling white in a clear sunlight. This intensity of -reflection is, however, toned to a great extent by the varying haze -which permeates the upper atmosphere of the valley for most of the -time. This haze has sometimes the appearance of a light cloud of -blue smoke, with its borders fringed with a silvery vapor. At other -times--during August and September--the tint is enriched, and at -sunrise and sunset for the valley the golden light seems to permeate -the haze, and lend its charm to the gossamer film that shields the -sight from the glare of the reflecting granite. - -The walls on each side are in many places perpendicular, and are, from -the level of the valley to the top of the cliffs, from 2,660 to 4,737 -feet in height, or, as they are generally described, from half a mile -to a mile in height. Prof. Whitney, however, says: “The valley is sunk -almost a mile in perpendicular depth below the general level of the -adjacent region.” This is undoubtedly correct, for in his description, -he says: “The Yosemite Valley is nearly in the center of the State, -north and south, and just midway between the east and west bases of the -Sierras; here a little over seventy miles wide.” - -Prof. Whitney’s estimate of the depth of the valley must be literally -correct, for the general slope of that region is toward the valley, -except from the west, its lower end. - -At the base of these cliffs is a comparatively small amount of -_debris_, consisting of broken rocks which have fallen from above. A -kind of soil has accumulated on this talus, which is generally covered -with vegetation. Trees of considerable size--oaks, pines, firs, cedars, -maples, bay and dwarf oak, and lesser shrubs, are frequent. Although -this _debris_ is scarcely observed in a general view, its height above -the bottom of the valley is in many places from three hundred to five -hundred feet next to the cliff, from which it slopes some distance -into the valley. In a few places the bases of the cliffs appear as -if exposed nearly to the level of the valley. The valley proper is -generally level through its entire length. The actual slope given is -“only thirty-five feet between the junctions of the Ten-ie-ya Fork -and the Bridal Veil Creek with the main river, four miles and a half -in a straight line.” The elevation of the valley above the sea level -is 3,950 feet. The Merced River, which is about seventy feet wide in -an ordinary stage of water, courses down through the middle cañon, -meanders through the valley, being restrained or confined to near the -centre of it by the sloping talus at its sides--the sloping _debris_ -piles occupying nearly one-half of the bottom of the valley. - -Although the soil is principally of a sandy character, the marshy land -subject to overflow, and some of the dry bottom land, have a deep, rich -alluvial soil. - -The two beautiful little meadows in the lower section of the valley, -afford forage for animals. On the slope above, not far from the Pohono -Falls, the Yosemities built their huts, as if unconscious of “The -Spirit of the Evil Wind,” near their habitations. - -Not far from the foot of the descent of the Mariposa trail, the -original trail branched; one trail continuing on up the south side of -the valley, the other crossing the Merced toward El Capitan. Another -original trail came up on the north side from the gorge below. A small -foot-trail entered this from the northern summit of the Coultersville -trail, but it was purposely left so obscure by the Indians, as to -lead to the belief that it was impassable for horses. This trail was -modernized, and is now known as the “Coultersville Trail.” On angle of -El Capitan is “Ribbon Falls.” The cliff over which the water pours is -nearly 3,000 feet high, but the perpendicular height of the fall is but -little over a thousand feet. This fall is “a beauty” while it lasts, -but it is as ephemeral as a spring shower, and this fact must have been -known to the sponsors at the baptism. - -Just above El Capitan are the Three Brothers, the highest peak of these -rocks is 3,830 feet. - -Next above these is the Yosemite Fall. The verge of the cliff over -which this fall begins its descent is 2,600 feet above the level of -the valley. Prof. Whitney in describing this fall, says: “The fall is -not in one perpendicular sheet. There is first a vertical descent of -1,500 feet, when the water strikes on what seems to be a projecting -ledge; but which, in reality, is a shelf or recess, almost a third of a -mile back from the front of the lower portion of the cliff. From here -the water finds its way, in a series of cascades, down a descent equal -to 626 feet perpendicular, and then gives one final plunge of about -400 feet on to a low _talus_ of rocks at the base of the precipice.” -He also “estimates the size of the stream at the summit of the fall, -at a medium stage of water, to be twenty feet in width and two feet -in average depth.” The upper portion of the full spread of its base -is estimated to be a width of from one hundred to three hundred feet -at high water. The wind gives this fall a vibratory motion; sometimes -equal to the width of the column of water itself at the base of the -perpendicular descent. - -The ravine called Indian Cañon is less than a mile above the Yosemite -Fall; between the two, is the rocky peak called the “Lost Arrow,” -which, although not perpendicular, runs up boldly to a height of 3,030 -feet above the level of the Merced. - -The Indian name for the ravine called Indian Cañon was Lehamite, and -the cliff extending into the valley from the East side of the Cañon -is known as the “Arrow-wood Rocks.” This grand wall extends almost -at a right angle towards the East, and continues up the Ten-ie-ya -Cañon, forming the base of the North dome (To-co-ya) which rises to an -elevation of 3,568 feet above the valley. - -In the cliff which forms the base of this dome-shaped mass of rocks, -are the “Royal Arches,” an immense arched cavity evidently formed by -portions of the cliff becoming detached from some cause, and falling -out in sections to the depth of seventy-five or one hundred feet from -the face of the cliff. The top of the arch appears to be 1,200 feet or -more above the valley. The extreme width of the cavity is about the -same, or perhaps a little more than the height. Adjoining the “Royal -Arches” on the East, is what is called the “Washington Column.” This -projecting rounded mass of rock, may be said to mark the boundary of -the valley proper and the Ten-ie-ya Cañon, which here opens into the -valley from a Northeasterly direction. - -On the opposite side of Ten-ie-ya Cañon is the Half Dome (Tis-sa-ack) -the loftiest peak of the granite cliffs that form a part of the walls -of the Yosemite Valley. Its height above the valley is 4,737 feet. On -the side next to Ten-ie-ya Cañon this cliff is perpendicular for more -than 1,500 feet from its summit, and then, the solid granite slopes at -about an angle of 60 degrees to its base. The top of this mass of rock -has the appearance of having been at one time a dome-shaped peak, now -however, but half remains, that portion split off has by some agency, -been carried away. At its Northerly base is Mirror Lake, and farther up -the Cañon is Mt. Watkins, Cloud’s Rest, a cascade, and Lake Ten-ie-ya. - -This brief outline of description includes the principal points of -interest on the north side of the valley. From the lower part of the -valley, the first prominent object reached on the south side, is -the Bridal Veil Fall. The water of the “Po-ho-no” here falls over a -cliff from a perpendicular height of 630 feet, onto a sloping pile of -_debris_, about 300 feet above the level of the Merced, in reaching -which it rushes down the slope among the rocks in cascades and -branching outlets. The total height of the cliff over which the water -falls is about 900 feet. The trees on the slope below conceal the lower -part of the fall, so that at a distance it appears as if reaching to -the bottom of the valley. Just above the Bridal Veil are what have -been termed the “Three Graces,” and not far above these, are the -peculiar appearing pinnacles of rocks to which the names of Cathedral -Rock and Cathedral Spires have been given. Cathedral Rock is 2,660 -feet high. The spires just beyond are about the same height from the -level of the valley. They are pointed columns of granite 500 feet high, -attached at their base with the cliff forming the side of the valley. -The next prominent object on the south side is Sentinel Rock, 3,043 -feet high. This pinnacle of granite is on the extremity of a point of -rocks extending into the valley. For a thousand feet or more, it has -the form of an obelisk, below which it forms a part of the projecting -rocks. The next object is the massive point projecting into the valley, -and which here forms an angle towards the south; it is called Glacier -Point. This has an elevation of 3,200 feet above the valley. From this -point some of the finest views of the vicinity can be seen. Behind -Glacier Point and Sentinel Rock, appearing as if these cliffs formed a -part of its base, is the South Dome, known also as the Sentinel Dome. -The name of “South Dome” was originally given to this dome-shaped mass -of granite by our battalion. It is 4,150 feet above the valley. The -South or Glacier Cañon is just above Glacier Point. At the head of this -rocky impassable cañon, is the beautiful fall I have named “Glacier -Fall.” This fall is about 600 feet high. The middle cañon, Yanopah, -opens from the east. The Merced river comes down this cañon into the -valley. - -In a distance of two miles, a descent from over 2,000 feet of -perpendicular height is made. This includes the Vernal and Nevada -Falls. The Vernal is about 350 feet high; the Nevada something over 600 -feet. The rapids between the falls have a descent of about 300 feet. -The Vernal and Nevada are about one mile apart. On the north side of -the middle cañon is the Cap of Liberty, rising to a height of 2,000 -feet above its base near the foot of the Nevada Fall. This stupendous -mass of rock stands nearly perpendicular on all sides but one. Farther -up, on the south side of Ten-ie-ya Cañon, is Clouds Rest, which is -6,000 feet above the bottom of the Yosemite. Between Glacier Cañon and -Yanopah is the Noble Starr King. The immense cliff forming the extreme -westerly point of the divide between Ten-ie-ya Cañon and the Yanopah -branch, has had various names affixed to it, none of which seems to -have been satisfactory. It was between the lower face of this wall and -Glacier Point that Capt. Boling laid off and had cleared for use his -race-course; and hence, in speaking of the locality, it was sometimes -designated as Boling’s Point, as the starting place for the race. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - - A Trip to Los Angelos--Interview with Col. McKee--A Night at Col. - Fremont’s Camp--Management of Cattle by the Colonel’s Herdsmen--Back - to Los Angelos--Specimen Bricks of the Angel City--An Addition to our - Party--Mules Versus Bears--Don Vincente--A Silver Mine--Mosquitos--A - Dry Bog--Return to Fresno--Muster out of Battalion--A Proposition. - - -On arriving at head-quarters on the Fresno, with the remnant of the -once numerous and defiant band of Yosemite Indians, whose thieving -propensities and murderous attacks had made them a dread to miners -and “ranche” men; we found a general feeling of confidence that the -“Indian war” was ended. The commissioners, with a special escort of U. -S. soldiers which had accompanied them from San Francisco, had gone -to King’s River to treat with the bands collected for that purpose; -and were then to visit the region farther South on their way to Los -Angelos, where they expected to meet and co-operate with Gen. Bean, who -was stationed with his volunteer force at the Cahon Pass. Major Savage -had learned from his Indians, who once more seemed to idolize him, that -all the bands in the vicinity of the Kings and Kah-we-ah rivers, had -“made peace,” and that the commissioners had started for Te-jon Pass. - -Considering the Indian outbreak as completely suppressed, the major at -once reported the condition of affairs to the governor, and recommended -that the “Mariposa Battalion” be mustered out and honorably discharged -from further service. He sent Captain Boling to report in person to -the commissioners. I was detailed as one of the Captain’s escort, and -Mr. Winchester, a newspaper correspondent, accompanied us. Captain -Boling expected to overtake the commissioners at Te-hon Pass. - -This trip was in no way objectionable to me, for I was desirous to -visit that part of the country with a view of selecting a location, if -I found my plans to be practicable. Through the advice of Major Savage, -I had in contemplation a design to establish a trading post in the -vicinity of Te-hon Pass. In this project, I was assured of the Major’s -friendship and co-operation as soon as the battalion was mustered out. -He designed to extend his trading operations, and thought that a post -in the vicinity of the pass would control the trade destined to spring -up on both sides of the mountains. I was provided with recommendations -to the commissioners, to use in case I desired a trader’s permit on -one of the reservations. The commissioners were while _en route_ -prospecting for locations and selections of public lands for the -Indians. The object of these selections, was to make the experiment -of engaging them in agricultural pursuits under the management of the -general government. I had but little confidence that the latter could -be made self-supporting wards of the nation; but I was willing in -political as in religious affairs, that each zealot should believe that -he had discovered a sovereign balm for the wants of humanity. However, -self-interest prompted me to be observant of passing events. - -I was aware, even at that early day, that the California Indians had -become objects of speculation to the “rings” that scented them as -legitimate prey. The trip to the Te-jon Pass was made without incident -or accident to delay our movements, but on our arrival it was found -that the Commissioners had been gone several days, and were probably -then in Los Angelos. This we learned from an Indian styled by his -“_christian name_” Don Vincente. This chief was a Mission Indian, and -spoke some Spanish. His people, although in appearance hardly equal to -the mountain tribes, provided themselves with fruit and vegetables of -their own raising. - -From “Senor Don Vincente” we obtained roasting ears of corn, melons, -etc., which were an agreeable surprise. While on the trip we had found -game in abundance, and, surfeited with fresh meat, the vegetables -seemed better than any we had ever before eaten. Vincente’s system of -irrigation was very complete. - -Captain Boling was not anxious to follow the trail of the Commissioners -beyond this camp. I had already informed him of my desire to see the -Commissioners and make some examination of that locality before our -return. He therefore decided to retrace his own steps, but to send me -on as a special messenger to the Commissioners. - -He instructed me to make all possible despatch to deliver his report -and messages, but on my return trip I had liberty to make such delays -as suited my convenience. He also wished me to convey a verbal message -from Major Savage to Colonel Fremont, to the effect that the Indians -congregated at the Fresno were anxiously awaiting the arrival of -some of his cattle. Col. Fremont had already made a large contract -for supplying them with beef, and was supposed to be in Los Angelos -or vicinity, buying up animals for the agencies. My arrangements for -following the Commissioners were hardly commenced, before Col. William -T. Henderson, a ranchman from near Quartzberg, rode up to our camp. He -was an acquaintance, and was on his way to Los Angelos with a King’s -River Indian guide. I at once saddled my mule, and taking an extra -animal furnished for the occasion, joined Henderson, making the trip a -more agreeable and pleasant one than I had anticipated. - -Col. Henderson afterwards became famous, at least among his friends, -as chief instrument under Captain Harry Love, of causing the death -of “Joaquin Muriata” and “Three fingered Jack,” and in capturing two -or three of Muriata’s band of robbers. On entering the city of Los -Angelos, I found Col. McKee at his hotel. Neither Col. Barbour nor Col. -Fremont were in the city. Doctor Woozencroft was in San Francisco. -I was cordially received and hospitably entertained by Col. McKee -while I made my report, and answered his questions. At his request, I -stated a few facts relating to the Yosemite Valley, and he appeared an -interested listener; but distinguishing a look of incredulity, when -I gave him my estimates of heights, I made the interview as brief as -possible. Ascertaining that Col. Fremont was only a few miles from -the city, I rode out to his camp, delivered my message, and gave him -a general view of the situation in Mariposa county, where his famous -estate is situated. I staid over night with him and was hospitably -provided for. - -The Colonel’s whole bearing was that of an accomplished man of the -world, and I felt that I was in the presence of a gentleman of -education and refinement. During the morning I watched his vaqueros or -herdsman training the cattle preparatory to starting north for their -destination. This breaking-in process was accomplished by driving them -in a circle over the plain near the camp, and was done to familiarize -them with each other, and with the commands of the herdsmen, before -attempting to drive them from their native grazing grounds. - -On my return to the city I again called on Colonel McKee to see if he -had any return message to Major Savage. On my first visit the subject -of reservations was not presented. Upon this occasion it was naturally -brought up by an allusion to the Colonel’s plan of “_christianizing the -poor Indians_.” My doubt of the feasibility of this work was better -concealed than were his doubts of my heights of the Yosemite, and with -considerable fervor the good old gentle man unfolded his plans for the -christianizing of the Indians. His estimate of the number in Mariposa -county was simply fabulous, and when I quietly asked him if he supposed -there were really so many, he, with some choler, answered, “Why, sir, -these figures are official.” - -During this conversation, I was informed that the Fresno, King’s River -and Te-jon Pass selections would be recommended, although it appeared -that the latter was claimed as an old and long disputed Spanish grant. -On stating that I had had some idea of locating in the vicinity of the -Te-jon Pass as soon as that selection was decided upon, I was advised -by Colonel McKee to be in no haste to do so, but was assured of his -good will in any application I might make after their policy was -established; for, added the Colonel, “Major Savage has already spoken -of you as an energetic and efficient person, and one calculated to -materially aid us in future work with these Indians.” - -Let it suffice here to say, that I never made application for a permit -as a licensed trader on any Indian reservation; and I am not yet aware -that any of these reservations have afforded the Indians means of -self-support. I was somewhat familiar with the management of the Fresno -agency, and do not hesitate to say that it was not wholly commendable. -I was not personally familiar with that of the Te-jon Pass agricultural -management. This was one of the most delightful regions of California; -and the region covered by the Mexican or Spanish grant was, in my -opinion, intrinsically more valuable than the whole of the celebrated -Mariposa estate of Col. Fremont, which had “millions in it.” After -a vast amount of money had been expended on this reservation by the -general government, I believe it was confirmed as a Spanish or Mexican -grant, and finally passed into the possession of General Beal, who was -for some years Superintendent of Indian Affairs in California. I never -saw General Beal, and therefore was only able to judge of him or his -management through his official reports and letters relating to the -Indian Affairs of California. These will receive some special notice -further on. - -My recollections of the interviews with Colonel McKee, are of a most -agreeable character. The sincerity with which he advised me with regard -to my individual affairs, and the correctness of his representations of -the prospective condition of the Tejon Pass, if it should prove a valid -Mexican grant, was serviceable to me, and subsequent events verified -his judgment. Colonel McKee was a high-minded christian gentleman, but -really unsuited to deal with the political element then existing on the -Pacific-coast. The other two commissioners, Colonel Barbour and Dr. -Woozencroft, I never became acquainted with, though upon one occasion -I met Colonel Barbour at head-quarters, and received a very favorable -impression of his character. In leaving Colonel McKee after my second -interview, I could not at once relinquish my design of ultimately -establishing myself near the Tejon. Having completed my business, I -reported myself to Henderson as ready, and found that he also had -been able to despatch his affairs, and had no business to detain him -longer. Together we took a stroll through the principal street, and -visited some popular resorts. However angelic the unseen portion of -this city--of then less than two thousand inhabitants--may have been, -it appeared to us as a city of fallen angels with their attendant -satellites. Although our observations were made in a dull portion of -the day, we witnessed on the street one pugilistic encounter, two -shooting affrays, and a reckless disregard of life, and property -rights generally, never allowed in a civilized community. We soon -discovered that good arms and a firm demeanor were the only passports -to respectful consideration. - -The authorities seemed too indifferent or too timid to maintain order, -or punish the offenders against law. Satisfied that the “City of -Angels” could exhibit more unadulterated wickedness than any other town -in the State at that time, we shook the dust from our feet, and in -order to get an early start the next morning, rode out to the vicinity -of Col. Fremont’s camp. Our party was increased by the addition of -two gentlemen, who joined us for protection and guidance. The name -of one of them has escaped my memory; the other was Doctor Bigelow, -of Detroit, Michigan, a geologist, who at one time was engaged in a -geological survey of a portion of Lake Superior; We left our camp -before sunrise, Henderson and myself riding in advance; our guests, -Indian and pack-mule bringing up the rear. This order of traveling -was maintained as a matter of convenience, for being well mounted, -Henderson and myself were able to secure deer, antelope and a supply of -smaller game, without hardly leaving the trail or delaying our progress. - -Among the foot-hills of the mountain slopes we saw several black bears -cross the trail ahead, but not being out of meat, we did not urgently -solicit their company. We did, however, once have our appetite aroused -for “bar meat,” but failed to supply the material for the feast. -Halting for a rest at the foot of a ravine, and being very thirsty, we -followed the indications to water exhibited by our mules. These were -secured while we explored the brushy ravine for the water-hole. As we -reached the desired water, two fat cubs came waddling out of the pool, -and ran into a clump of dwarf willow. - -Congratulating each other on the prospect of roast cub for supper, we -tried to get a shot with our revolvers, but a rousing demonstration -from the parental bear, which suddenly appeared, alarmed our -cautiousness, and we retreated hurriedly, but in good order, to the -place where we had carelessly left our rifles. Hastily mounting, we -returned the compliment by at once charging on the bear and her cubs, -which were now endeavoring to escape. - -As we approached near enough for the mules to see and scent the game, -they halted, and commenced _marking time_. Neither spurs or the butts -of our rifles could persuade them to make a forward movement. Thinking -I might secure a cub that stood temporarily in sight, I raised my -rifle, but in so doing slackened the reins, when with the ease and -celerity of a well-drilled soldier, my mule came to an “_about face_,” -and instantly left that locality. Henderson’s mule became unmanageable, -and after a lusty “we-haw! we-haw!” followed me, while the affrighted -bear family scrambled off in search of a place of security. Pulling -up as soon as we could control our frightened animals, Henderson -congratulated me on possessing one so active on a retreat, while I -complimented the intelligence of his own, which would not voluntarily -endanger his master. - -After a hearty laugh at our comic illustration of a bear hunt, it was -mutually agreed that a mule was not reliable in a charge upon bruin. - -A mule may be the equal of a horse in intelligence, but his inferiority -of spirit and courage in times of danger prevents his becoming a -favorite, except as a beast for work or mountain travel. - -On arriving at the rancheria of the chief Vincente, I induced Henderson -to stop and explore the country. The luscious watermelons and abundant -supplies of vegetables were strong arguments in favor of a few days’ -rest for our animals and recreation for ourselves. In the meantime -Doctor Bigelow had told us of a traditional silver mine that he had -been informed existed somewhere in the locality of the Te-jon. I found -the pompous old chief fond of displaying his knowledge of agriculture, -which was really considerable, and I complimented him upon his success, -as was deserved. - -After paying him for the things liberally supplied our party, and which -with a show of Spanish courtesy he intimated he had given us because -he was “a good Christian”--though he frequently crossed himself while -expressing his fear of “witches” or demons--I opened up the subject of -the old silver mine. I designated it as some kind of a mine that had -once been worked by an Englishman. We were told by “Don Vincente” that -such a mine had been discovered many years before, by white men, who, -after working it for awhile, had been driven off or killed; “but for -the love of God” he could not tell which. We expressed a wish to visit -the old mine, and asked permission of the chief. He told us it was not -in the territory claimed by him, and he was thankful that it was not, -as the location was haunted. When asked if he would furnish us a guide, -who should be well paid for his service, he answered, “Go, and God go -with you, but none of my people shall go, for it would bring upon us -evil.” We were shown the mouth of the ravine, after some persuasion, -but no argument or inducement could procure a guide to the mine. - -“Don Vincente,” like all the Mission Indians of California, I found to -be strongly imbued with the superstitions of the _wild tribes_, and -a firm believer in the power of human departed spirits to harm the -living. Many, like those of the east, believed that the wizards or -sorcerers could put a spell upon a victim, that if not disenchanted -would soon carry him to his grave. - -Leaving our extra animals in the care of Vincente, we took our course -towards the mouth of the ravine pointed out to us, southwest of the -Tejon. After a tedious and difficult search, a discovery of some -_float_ mineral was made, and following up these indications, we found -some very rude furnaces, and a long distance above discovered the mine, -which had evidently been abandoned for years. We procured some of the -best _specimens_ of the ore, and being unable to determine its value, -forwarded some to assayers in San Francisco. Doctor Bigelow pronounced -the mineral to be that of antimony, but said that it might possibly -contain some of the precious metals, but it was quite evident that he -placed but little commercial value upon the mine. The reports finally -received from the assayers were very unfavorable, and our visions of -untold wealth vanished with the smoke of the assay. - -On our return from the exploration of the “_Silver Mine_,” we carefully -concealed our discovery from Vincente and his people, and avoided -exciting their curiosity. Our animals were rested, and in an improved -condition, for the grass was rich and abundant. Don Vincente was as -much delighted with our presents of tobacco and trinkets, which we -had carried with us for such occasions, as any of the “_Gentile_” -nations would have been. We took our departure from the hospitalities -of the Mission Chief without having had any occurrence to divert the -mutually friendly feelings that had been fostered in our intercourse. -We had designed, on starting from the rancheria of Don Vincente, to -leave the direct trail to Mariposa, and explore the lake region of -the Tulare valley. Unfortunately for the success of this undertaking, -we made our first camp too near the marshy shore of Kern Lake. We had -selected the camp ground for the convenience of water and fresh grass -for our animals, but as night closed in, the mosquitoes swarmed from -the surrounding territory, making such vigorous charges upon us and our -animals, that we were forced to retreat from their persistent attacks, -and take refuge on the high land away from the vicinity of the Tule -or Bullrush marshes. Having no desire to continue the acquaintance of -the inhabitants who had thronged to welcome our approach, our ambition -for making further exploration was so much weakened, that we silently -permitted our mules to take their course towards the direct trail. Col. -Henderson declared that the mosquitoes on these lakes were larger, more -numerous, and in greater variety, than in the swamps of Louisiana, and -Doctor Bigelow said that hitherto he had rather prided himself, as -a Michigander, on the _earnest_ character of those of Michigan, but -that in future, he should be willing to accept as a standard of all -the possibilities of mosquito growth, those that had _reluctantly_ -parted with us at Kern Lake. Keeping the rich alluvial low lands on our -left, we crossed a strip of alkali plain, through which our animals -floundered as if in an ash heap. This Henderson designated as a “_dry -bog_.” Deviating still farther to the right to avoid this, an old trail -was struck, either Indian or animal, which led us into the main trail -usually traveled up and down the valley. At the crossing of one of the -numerous mountain streams, we found a good camping place on a beautiful -table overlooking this rich territory, where we would be secure from -the assaults of _enemies_. - -After a refreshing bath in the cool waters of the stream, we slept the -sleep of the blessed, and mosquitoes once more became to us unknown -objects of torture. The next morning we found ourselves refreshed and -buoyant. - -Our animals, like ourselves, seemed to feel in elevated spirits, and -as we vaulted into our saddles at an early hour, they moved rapidly -along in the cool and bracing air. As we rode, drove after drove of -antelope and elk were seen, and one small band of mustangs approached -from the west, when, after vainly neighing to our mules, they turned -and galloped back toward their favorite resort, the west side of the -valley. Sometimes, with a halting look of scrutiny, a coyote would -cross our trail, but their near vicinity was always recognized by our -vigilant mules with a snort and pause in their gait, that was probably -designed to intimate to us that it might be another bear. We beguiled -the time in discussing the amazing fertility of the country we were -traversing, and the probability of its future occupancy. At the present -time, thriving cities and immense wheat fields occupy localities where -in 1851 game and wild mustangs roamed almost undisturbed by the white -man’s tread, or the flash or gleam of his unerring rifle. There is -still room for the enterprising settler, and the upper end of the San -Joaquin Valley may yet be called the sportsman’s paradise. The lakes -and streams swarm with fish, and are the resort of water-fowl, and -deer, elk and antelope are still plentiful in secluded localities. - -We reached the Fresno in safety without interrupting incidents, and -without further attempt at exploration. Colonel Henderson, Doctor -Bigelow, and his companion _du voyage_, after a short halt passed on -to Quartzberg, while I stopped over to make my report to the Major. To -my extreme surprise, Major Savage questioned me as to the cause of my -tardiness, saying he had been expecting me for two or three days past, -and that the cattle were now within the valley and would in a short -time be at the reservation. After sufficiently enjoying my astonishment -at his knowledge of my movements and those of Fremont’s herders, he -informed the that his old power and influence over the Indians had -been re-established, and that reports came to him from the different -chiefs of all important events transpiring in their territory. He -soon satisfied me that through a judicious distribution of presents -to the runners, and the esteem in which he was held by the chiefs, he -was able to watch the proceedings of strangers, for every movement -of our party had been reported to him in detail. I was cordially -received by the Major, as a guest in his new trading house, which he -had erected during our absence. We discussed the probable future of -the management of Indian affairs in California, and the incidents of -my trip to Los Angelos. The Major informed me that the battalion had -been mustered out of service during my absence (on July 25th, 1851), -but that my interests had been properly represented and cared for, as -far as he had been able to act without my presence. But in order to -receive compensation as interpreter and for extra medical services, it -was discovered that separate accounts and vouchers would be required, -which he and Captain Boling would at any time certify. The major then -informed me that he had made his arrangements to recommence his trading -operations on as large a scale as might be required. That he could make -more as a trader than as an employe of government, and at the same -time be free from their cares and anxieties. He advised me to take a -subordinate position until I should be able to decide upon a better -location. He said he could make my position a profitable one if I -desired to remain with him. - -The major gave me a general insight into his future plans, and some of -the sources of his expected profits. After this conversation, I gave up -all idea of establishing at the Tejon or any where else as a government -trader. Having been so long absent from my private business, which I -had left under the management of a partner; I made this a sufficient -excuse for my departure the next morning and for my inability to accept -the major’s kindly offer. As I was leaving, the major said: “I was in -hopes to have secured your services, and still think you may change -your mind. If you do, ride over at once and you will find a place open -for you.” - -This confidence and friendship I felt demanded some return, and I -frankly said; “Major Savage, you are surrounded by combinations that -I don’t like. Sharp men are endeavoring to use you as a tool to work -their gold mine. Beside this, you have hangers-on here that are capable -of cutting your throat.” Contrary to my expectation the Major was not -in the least offended at my frankness; on the contrary, he thanked me -for my interest and said: “Doc, while you study books, I study men. -I am not often very much deceived, and I perfectly understand the -present situation, but let those laugh who win. If I can make good my -losses _by_ the Indians _out_ of the Indians, I am going to do it. I -was the best friend the Indians had, and they would have destroyed me. -Now that they once more call me “Chief,” they shall build me up. I -will be just to them, as I have been merciful, for after all, they are -but poor ignorant beings, but my losses must be made good.” Bidding -the Major good morning, I left him with many kindly feelings, and as -I rode on my solitary way to Mariposa, I thought of his many noble -qualities, his manly courage, his generous hospitality, his unyielding -devotion to friends, and his kindness to immigrant strangers. These all -passed in review before my mind, and then, I reversed the picture to -see if anything was out of proportion; in the picture I had drawn of -my hero. There were very serious defects, but such as would naturally -result from a misdirected education, and a strong will, but they were -capable of becoming virtues. As to the Major’s kindly offer, although I -appreciated his feeling’s towards me, I could not accept it. - -With many others, I had joined in the operations against the Indians -from conscientious motives and in good faith to chastise them for the -numerous murders and frequent robberies they were committing. Our -object was to compel them to keep the peace, that we might be permitted -to live undisturbed by their depredations. We had sufficient general -intelligence and knowledge of their character to know that we were -looked upon as trespassers on their territory, but were unwilling to -abandon our search for gold, or submit to their frequent demands for -an ever-increasing tribute. Beside other property, I had lost four -valuable horses, which were taken to satisfy their appetites. Neither -Bonner’s nor Vanderbilt’s love for horses, was ever greater than was -that of those mountain Indians. No horse was considered too valuable -for them to eat. Notwithstanding all this sense of injury done to my -personal interests, I could not justify myself in joining any scheme -to wrong them, or rather, the government; and it was too plainly -evident that no damages could be obtained for losses, except through -the California Indian Ring that was now pretty well established. During -the operations of the Battalion, the plans of the Ring were laid, and -it was determined that when the war should be ended, “a vigorous peace -policy” should be inaugurated. Estimates of the probable number of -Indians that it would be necessary to provide for in Mariposa county -alone, accidentally fell under my observation, and I at once saw -that it was the design to deceive the government and the people in -regard to the actual number, in order to obtain from Congress large -appropriations. These estimates were cited as official by Col. McKee, -and were ten times more than the truth would warrant. Major Savage -justified his course in using the opportunity to make himself whole -again, while acting as a trader, and in aiding others to secure “a good -thing,” by the sophism that he was not responsible for the action of -the commissioners or of Congress. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII. - - Captain Boling elected Sheriff--Appointment of Indian - Agents--Ten-ie-ya allowed to return to Yosemite--Murder of - Visitors--Lt. Moore’s Expedition and Punishment of Murderers--Gold - Discoveries on Eastern Slope of Sierras--Report of Expedition, and - first _Published_ Notice of Yosemite--Squatter Sovereignty--Assault - upon King’s River Reservation--The Supposed Leader, Harvey, Denounced - by Major Savage--A Rencounter and death of Savage--Harvey Liberated - by a Friendly Justice--An Astute Superintendent--A Mass Meeting--A - Rival Aspirant--Indians and Indian Policy. - - -After being mustered out, the members of the battalion at once returned -to their various avocations. I was fully occupied with mining and -trading operations, and hence gave little heed to affairs at the -Fresno. Through Captain Boling, however, who was elected Sheriff of the -county, and whose business carried him to all parts of the country, I -learned of the appointment of Col. Thomas Henly as agent for the tribes -of Mariposa county, and as sub-agents M. B. Lewis for the Fresno and -Wm. J. Campbell for the King’s River Agencies. I afterwards met Col. -Henly and Mr. Lewis in Mariposa, and was much pleased with the Colonel. -Both of these gentlemen were kind and genial; but Mr. Lewis soon tired -of his office as unsuited to his taste, and accepted a position in the -State Government under Major Roman. His successor, I believe, was Capt. -Vincinthalor. Old Ten-ie-ya, and his band, were never recipients of -friendly favors from Savage, nor was he in very good standing with the -agent. This was known to the other chiefs, and they frequently taunted -him with his downfall. The old chief chafed under the contemptuous -treatment of those who had once feared him and applied to the sub-agent -or farmer for permission to go back to his mountain home. He claimed -that he could not endure the heat at the agency, and said he preferred -acorns to the rations furnished him by the Government. - -To rid itself of the consequences engendered by these petty squabbles -with the old chief, the management at the Fresno consented to a -short absence under restrictions. Ten-ie-ya promised to perform all -requirements, and joyfully left the hot and dry reservation, and -with his family, took the trail to the Yosemite once more. As far -as is known, Ten-ie-ya kept faith and disturbed no one. Soon after -his departure, however, a few of his old followers quietly left the -Fresno as was supposed to join him, but as no complaints were made by -their chiefs, it was understood that they were glad to be rid of them; -therefore no effort was made to bring them back. During the winter -of 1851-52 a considerable number of horses were stolen, but as some -of them were found in the possession of Mexicans, who were promptly -executed for the theft, no charge was preferred against the Yosemites. - -Early in May, 1852, a small party of miners from Coarse Gold Gulch, -started out on a prospecting tour with the intention of making a visit -to the Yosemite Valley. - -The curiosity of some of these men had been excited by descriptions of -it, made by some of the ex-members of the Battalion who had gone to -Coarse Gold Gulch, soon after their discharge. This party spent some -little time prospecting on their way. Commencing on the south fork of -the Merced, they tested the mineral resources of streams tributary to -it; and then, passing over the divide on the old trail, camped for the -purpose of testing the branches leading into the main Merced. While at -this camp, they were visited by begging Indians; a frequent occurrence -in the mining camps of some localities. The Indians appeared friendly, -and gave no indications of hostile intentions. They gave the party to -understand, however, that the territory they were then in, belonged to -them, although no tribute was demanded. The miners comprehended their -intimations, but paid no attention to their claim, being aware that -this whole region had been ceded to the Government by treaty during the -year before. - -Having ascertained that they were a part of the Yosemite Band, the -miners by signs, interrogated them as to the direction of the valley, -but this they refused to answer or pretended not to understand. -The valley however, was known to be near, and no difficulty was -anticipated, when the party were ready to visit it, as an outline -map, furnished them before starting, had thus far proved reliable. -Unsuspicious of danger from an attack, they reached the valley, and -while entering it on the old trail, were ambushed by the Indians from -behind some rocks at or near the foot of the trail, and two of the -party were instantly killed. Another was seriously wounded, but finally -succeeded in making his escape. The names of the two men killed were -Rose and Shurbon; the name of the wounded man was Tudor. - -The reports of these murders, alarmed many of the citizens. They -were fearful that the Indians would become excited and leave the -reservations, in which case, it was thought, a general outbreak would -result. The management of the Fresno agency was censured for allowing -Ten-ie-ya to return to the valley, and for allowing so considerable -a number of his followers to again assemble under his leadership. -Among the miners, this alarm was soon forgotten, for it was found that -instead of leaving the reservations, the Indians camped outside, fled -to the agencies for protection, lest they should be picked off in -revenge for the murders perpetrated by the Yo-sem-i-tes. The officer in -command at Fort Miller, was notified of these murders, and a detachment -of regular soldiers under Lt. Moore, U. S. A., was at once dispatched -to capture or punish the red-skins. Beside the detachment of troops, -scouts and guides, and a few of the friends of the murdered men -accompanied the expedition. Among the volunteer scouts, was A. A. Gray, -usually called “Gus” Gray. He had been a member of Captain Boling’s -company and was with us, when the valley was discovered, as also on our -second visit to the valley under Captain Boling. He had been a faithful -explorer, and his knowledge of the valley and its vicinity, made his -services valuable to Lt. Moore, as special guide and scout for that -locality. The particulars of this expedition I obtained from Gray. He -was afterward a Captain under Gen. Walker, of Nicaragua notoriety. -Under the guidance of Gray, Lt. Moore entered the valley in the night, -and was successful in surprising and capturing a party of five savages; -but an alarm was given, and Ten-ie-ya and his people fled from their -huts and escaped. On examination of the prisoners in the morning, it -was discovered that each of them had some article of clothing that had -belonged to the murdered men. The naked bodies of Rose and Shurbon were -found and buried. Their graves were on the edge of the little meadow -near the Bridal Vail Fall. - -When the captives were accused of the murder of the two white men, they -did not deny the charge; but tacitly admitted that they had done it to -prevent white men from coming to their valley. They declared that it -was their home, and that white men had no right to come there without -their consent. - -Lieutenant Moore told them, through his interpreter, that they had -sold their lands to the Government, that it belonged to the white men -now; that the Indians had no right there. They had signed a treaty -of peace with the whites, and had agreed to live on the reservations -provided for them. To this they replied that Ten-ie-ya had never -consented to the sale of their valley, and had never received pay for -it. The other chiefs, they said, had no right to sell their territory, -and no right to laugh at their misfortunes. - -Lieutenant Moore became fully satisfied that he had captured the real -murderers, and the abstract questions of title and jurisdiction, were -not considered debatable in this case. He promptly pronounced judgment, -and sentenced them to be shot. They were at once placed in line, and by -his order, a volley of musketry from the soldiers announced that the -spirits of five Indians were liberated to occupy ethereal space. - -This may seem summary justice for a single individual, in a republic, -to meet out to fellow beings on his own judgment; but a formal judicial -killing of these Indians could not have awarded more summary justice. -This prompt disposition of the captured murderers, was witnessed by a -scout sent out by Ten-ie-ya to watch the movements of Lieutenant Moore -and his command, and was immediately reported to the old chief, who -with his people at once made a precipitate retreat from their hiding -places, and crossed the mountains to their allies, the Pai-utes and -Monos. Although this was in June, the snow, which was lighter than -the year before at this time, was easily crossed by the Indians and -their families. After a short search, in the vicinity of the valley, -Lieutenant Moore struck their trail at Lake Ten-ie-ya, and followed -them in close pursuit, with an expressed determination to render as -impartial justice to the whole band as he had to the five in the -valley. It was no disappointment to me to learn from Gray, that when -once alarmed, old Ten-ie-ya was too much for Lieutenant Moore, as he -had been for Major Savage and Captain Boling. Lieutenant Moore did -not overtake the Indians he was pursuing, neither was he able to get -any information from the Pai-utes, whom he encountered, while east of -the Sierras. Lieutenant Moore crossed the Sierras over the Mono trail -that leads by the Soda Springs through the Mono Pass. He made some -fair discoveries of gold and gold-bearing quartz, obsidian and other -minerals, while exploring the region north and south of Bloody Cañon -and of Mono Lake. Finding no trace whatever of the cunning chief, he -returned to the Soda Springs, and from there took his homeward journey -to Fort Miller by way of the old trail that passed to the south of the -Yosemite. - -Lieutenant Moore did not discover the Soda Springs nor the Mono Lake -country, but he brought into prominent notice the existence of the -Yosemite, and of minerals in paying quantities upon the Eastern Slope. -Mr. Moore made a brief descriptive report of his expedition, that found -its way into the newspapers. At least, I was so informed at the time, -though unable to procure it. I saw, however, some severe criticisms of -his display of autocratic power in ordering the five Yosemites shot. - -After the establishment of the “Mariposa Chronicle” by W. T. Witachre -and A. S. Gould, the first number of which was dated January 20, 1854. -Lieutenant Moore, to more fully justify himself or gratify public -curiosity, published in the “Chronicle” a letter descriptive of the -expedition and its results. In this letter he dropped the terminal -letter “y” in the name “Yosemity,” as it had been written previously -by myself and other members of the battalion, and substituted “e,” as -before stated. As Lieutenant Moore’s article attracted a great deal of -public attention at that time, the name, with its present orthography, -was accepted. A copy of the paper containing Moore’s letter was in my -possession for many years, but, finally, to my extreme regret, it was -lost or destroyed. - -To Lieutenant Moore belongs the credit of being the first to attract -the attention of the scientific and literary world, and “The Press” -to the wonders of the Yosemite Valley. His position as an officer of -the regular army, established a reputation for his article, that could -not be expected by other correspondents. I was shown by Gray, who was -exhibiting them in Mariposa, some very good specimens of gold quartz, -that were found on the Moore expedition. Leroy Vining, and a few chosen -companions, with one of Moore’s scouts as guide, went over the Sierras -to the place where the gold had been found, and established themselves -on what has since been known as Vining’s Gulch or Creek. - -On the return of Lieutenant Moore to Fort Miller, the news of his -capture of the Indians, and his prompt execution of them as the -murderers of Rose and Shurbon, occasioned some alarm among the timid, -which was encouraged and kept alive by unprincipled and designing -politicians. All kinds of vague rumors were put in circulation. Many -not in the secret supposed another Indian war would be inaugurated. -Political factions and “Indian Rings” encouraged a belief in the most -improbable rumors, hoping thereby to influence Congressional action, -or operate upon the War Department to make large estimates for the -California Indian Service. - -This excitement did not extend beyond the locality of its origin, and -the citizens were undisturbed in their industries by these rumors. -During all this time no indications of hostilities were exhibited -by any of the tribes or bands, although the abusive treatment they -received at the hands of some, was enough to provoke contention. They -quietly remained on the reservations. As far as I was able to learn -at the time, a few persons envied them the possession of their King’s -river reservation, and determined to “_squat_” upon it, after they -should have been driven off. This “border element” was made use of by -an unprincipled schemer by the name of Harvey, whom it was understood -was willing to accept office, when a division of Mariposa county -should have been made, or when a vacancy of any kind should occur. But -population was required, and the best lands had been reserved for the -savages. A few hangers-on, at the agencies, that had been discharged -for want of employment and other reasons, made claims upon the King’s -river reservation; the Indians came to warn them off, when they were at -once fired upon, and it was reported that several were killed. - -These agitations and murders were denounced by Major Savage in -unsparing terms, and he claimed that Harvey was responsible for them. -Although the citizens of Mariposa were at the time unable to learn the -details of the affair at King’s river, which was a distant settlement, -the great mass of the people were satisfied that wrong had been done to -the Indians. There had been a very decided opposition by the citizens -generally to the establishment of two agencies in the county, and the -selection of the best agricultural lands for reservations. Mariposa -then included nearly the whole San Joaquin valley south of the Tuolumne. - -The opponents to the recommendations of the commissioners claimed -that “The government of the United States has no right to select -the territory of a sovereign State to establish reservations for -the Indians, nor for any other purpose, without the consent of the -State.” The State Legislature of 1851-52, instructed the Senators -and Representatives in Congress to use their influence to have the -Indians removed beyond the limits of the State. These views had been -advocated by many of the citizens of Mariposa county in good faith; -but it was observed that those who most actively annoyed and persecuted -those located on King’s river reservation were countenanced by those -who professed to advocate opposite views. These men were often to be -seen at the agency, apparently the welcome guests of the employes of -government. - -It soon became quite evident, that an effort was being made to -influence public opinion, and create an impression that there was -imminent danger; in order that the general government would thereby -be more readily induced to continue large appropriations to keep in -subjection the comparatively few savages in the country. - -It was a well known fact that these people preferred horse-flesh and -their acorn jelly to the rations of beef that were supposed to have -been issued by the Government. During this time, Major Savage was -successfully pursuing his trade with the miners of the Fresno and -surrounding territory, and with the Indians at the agency. Frequently -those from the King’s River Agency, would come to Savage to trade, -thereby exciting the jealous ire of the King’s river traders. -Self-interest as well as public good prompted Savage to use every means -at his disposal to keep these people quiet, and he denounced Harvey -and his associates as entitled to punishment under the laws of the -Government. These denunciations, of course, reached Harvey and his -friends. Harvey and a sub-agent by the name of Campbell, seemed most -aggrieved at what Savage had said of the affray, and both appeared -to make common cause in denouncing the Major in return. Harvey made -accusations against the integrity of Savage, and boasted that Savage -would not dare visit King’s river while he, Harvey, was there. As soon -as this reached the Major’s ears, he mounted his horse and at once -started for the King’s River Agency. - -Here, as expected, Harvey was found, in good fellowship with Marvin, -the quartermaster, and others connected with the agency. Walking up -to Harvey, Major Savage demanded of him a retraction of his offensive -remarks concerning himself. This Harvey refused to do, and said -something to the effect that Savage had talked about Harvey. “Yes,” -replied Major Savage, “I have said that you are a murderer and a -coward.” Harvey retreated a pace or two and muttered that it was a lie. -As quick as the word was uttered, Savage knocked Harvey down. Harvey -appeared to play ’possum and made no resistance. As Savage stooped -over the prostrate Harvey, a pistol fell from Savage’s waist, seeing -which, Marvin picked it up and held it in his hand as the Major walked -off. Harvey rose to his feet at this moment, and seeing Marvin with -the pistol in his hand exclaimed, “Judge, you have got my pistol!” -Marvin replied, “No! I have not. This belongs to Major Savage.” When, -instantly, Harvey commenced firing at Major Savage, who, though -mortally wounded by the first shot, and finding his pistol gone, strove -hard to once more reach Harvey, whom he had scorned to further punish -when prostrate before him. - -This was in August, 1852. Harvey was arrested, or gave himself up, and -after the farce of an examination, was discharged. The justice, before -whom Harvey was examined, was a personal friend of the murderer, but -had previously fed upon the bounty of Savage. Afterwards, he commenced -a series of newspaper articles, assailing the Indian management of -California, and these articles culminated in his receiving congenial -employment at one of the agencies. Harvey, having killed his man, was -now well calculated for a successful California politician of that -period, and was triumphantly elected to office; but the ghost of Major -Savage seemed to have haunted him, for ever after, he was nervous and -irritable, and finally died of paralysis. The body of Major Savage was -afterwards removed to the Fresno, near his old trading post. A monument -was there erected to his memory by Dr. Leach, his successor in business. - -I was in San Francisco at the time of these troubles at the agencies; -but upon my return, obtained the main facts as here stated, from one of -the actors in the tragedy. - -At about this time, the management of California Indian affairs, became -an important stake in the political circles of Mariposa. I took but -little interest in the factions that were assaulting each other with -charges of corruption. Notwithstanding my lack of personal interest, I -was startled from my indifference by the report of the Superintendent -dated February, 1853. His sweeping denunciations of the people of -Mariposa county was a matter of surprise, as I knew it to be unjust. -This report was considered in a general mass meeting of the best -citizens of the county, and was very properly condemned as untrue. -Among those who took an active part in this meeting were Sam Bell (once -State Comptroller), Judge Bondurant, Senator James Wade, and other -members of the State Legislature, and many influential citizens, who -generally took but a minor interest in political affairs. - -The records of the meeting, and the resolutions condemning the -statements of the Superintendent of Indian Affairs, which were -unanimously adopted, and were published in the “Mariposa Chronicle” -after its establishment, I have preserved as a record of the times. -The meeting expressed the general sentiment of the people, but it -accomplished nothing in opposition to the Superintendent’s policy, -for the people soon discovered that the great “_Agitator_” at these -meetings was a would-be rival of the Superintendent. We therefore bowed -our heads and thought of the fox in the fable. I never chanced to meet -the gentleman who was at that time Superintendent of Indian Affairs, -and know nothing of him personally, but upon reading an official -letter of his dated at Los Angeles, August 22nd, 1853, in which he -speaks of “The establishment of an entire new system of government, -which is to change the character and habits of a hundred thousand -persons.” And another letter dated San Francisco, September 30th, 1853, -saying that his farm agent, Mr. Edwards, “Had with great tact and with -the assistance of Mr. Alexander Gody, by traveling from tribe to tribe, -and talking constantly with them, succeeded in preventing any outbreak -or disturbance in the San Joaquin Valley.” I came to the conclusion -that the Superintendent of Indian Affairs was under astute management, -or that he was one of the _shrewdest_ of the many _shrewd operators_ on -the Pacific Coast. The schemes of the _Indian Ring_ were not endorsed -by Governor Weller, but were practically condemned in a public letter. -The charges against the people of Mariposa by the Superintendent of -Indian Affairs were absurd and grossly insulting to their intelligence. -There had been no assault upon the Indians, except that at King’s -river, led by the hangers-on at one of his own agencies. These men -continued to be honored guests at the tables of his employes, and one -of his most vigorous assailants was given employment that silenced him. - -The estimates made by him in his letters and report, were on an assumed -probability of a renewal of Indian hostilities. It was true, murders -were occasionally committed by them, but they were few as compared -with those committed by the Mexicans and Americans among themselves. -The estimate of a hundred thousand Indians in California, was known by -every intelligent man who had given the subject any attention, to be -fabulous. There was probably not a fifth of the number. But that was -of no consequence, as the schemes of the “Ring” were successful. Large -appropriations were made by Congress in accordance with stipulations -of the treaty made between these ignorant tribes, and the Republic -of the United States of America. The recommendations were generally -carried out _in Washington_. - -The making of a treaty of peace with Indian tribes, may be correctly -defined as procuring a release of all claims of certain territory -occupied by them. Congress may make appropriations to provide for the -promises made, but it is a well known fact that these appropriations -are largely absorbed by the agents of the government, without the -provisions being fulfilled. The defrauded victims of the _treaty_ are -looked upon as pauper wards of a generous nationality; and the lavish -expenditure of the Government, is mostly consumed by the harpies who -hover around these objects of national charity. This farce of making -treaties with every little tribe as a distinct nationality, is an -absurdity which should long ago have been ended. With formal ceremony, -a treaty of peace is made with people occupying territory under the -jurisdiction of our national organization. A governmental power is -recognized in the patriarchal or tribal representatives of these -predatory bands, and all the forms of a legal and national obligation -are entered into, only to be broken and rebroken, at the will of some -succeeding administration. - -An inherited possessive right of the Indians to certain territory -required for their use, is acknowledged, and should be, by the -Government, but to recognize this as a tribal or national right, is but -to continue and foster their instinctive opposition to our Government, -by concentrating and inflaming their native pride and arrogance. - -The individual, and his responsibilities, become lost in that of his -tribe, and until that power is broken, and the individual is made to -assume the responsibilities of a man, there will be but little hope -of improvement. The individual is now scarcely recognized by the -people (except he be representative); he is but an integral number -of a tribe. He has a nationality without a country, and feels that -his people have no certain home. He knows that he has been pauperized -by contact with the whites and the policy pursued by the Government -towards him, and he scorns, while he accepts its bounty. These -native-born residents of our common country, are not citizens; their -inherent rights are not sufficiently protected, and, feeling this, they -in turn, disregard the law or set it at defiance. The best part of my -life has been spent upon the frontiers of civilization, where ample -opportunities have been afforded me to observe our national injustice -in assuming the guardianship and management of the Indian, without -fulfilling the treaty stipulations that afford him the necessary -protection. The policy of the Government has seemed to be to keep them -under restraint as animals, rather than of protective improvement as -rational human beings. What matters it, though the National Government, -by solemn treaty, pledges its faith to their improvement, if its -agents do not fulfill its obligations. I am no blind worshipper of -the romantic Indian, nor admirer of the real one; but his degraded -condition of pauperism, resulting from the mismanagement of our Indian -affairs, has often aroused in me an earnest sympathy for the race. They -are not deficient in brain-power, and they should rise from degradation -and want, if properly managed. I am not classed as a radical reformer, -but I would like to see a _radical_ change in their management. - -I would like to see the experiment tried by the Government and its -agents of dealing justly with them, and strictly upon honor. I would -like to see those who have the management of Indian affairs selected -because of their fitness for their positions, without making political -or religious considerations pre-requisite, qualifications. Morality and -strict integrity of character, should be indispensable requirements -for official positions; but a division of patronage, or of Indian -_souls_ among the various religious sects or churches, is contrary to -the spirit, if not the letter, of our Federal Constitution, and the -strife this policy has already engendered among the various sects, is -not calculated to impress even the savage with a very high estimate -of Christian forbearance and virtue. The cardinal principles of -Christianity should be taught the children by _example_, while teaching -them the necessity of obeying God’s moral and physical laws. I would -like to see the Indian individually held responsible for all his acts, -and as soon as may be, all tribal relations and tribal accountability -done away with, and ignored by the Government. - -The question of a transfer of the Indian Bureau to the War Department, -has been for some time agitated, but it seems to me that some facts -bearing on the subject have not been, sufficiently discussed or -understood. These are that the various tribes are warlike in their -habits and character, and have been engaged in wars of conquest among -themselves ever since they first became known to the white settlers of -the country. Their _immediate_ right to the territory they now occupy -is derived from the dispossession of some other tribe. They recognize -the _lex talionis_ as supreme, and their obedience to law and order -among themselves is only in proportion to their respect for the chief, -or power that controls them. Hence, for the Sioux and other unsubdued -tribes, military control, in my opinion, would be best suited to their -war-like natures and roving habits. The objection that their management -by the War Department had proved a failure, is not a valid one, as when -formerly the Bureau was under its nominal control, all appointments -of agents were made from civil life, as political rewards from those -in power. The political kites, scenting the fat things hidden away in -the office of an agent, pounced down upon them, exclaiming: “To the -victors belong the spoils.” The title of “Major” given the agent was -due to courtesy and the legitimate pay afforded, being that of a major -in the army. - -The duties of the office are anything but agreeable to an officer who -has been educated for the profession of a soldier. Few are disposed to -do the incessant drudgery required of an effective agent. As a rule, -the permanency of office, the education and _amour propre_ of military -life, raises the army officer above the temptations of the ordinary -politician; therefore, the _chances_ of an honest administration of -affairs are very much in favor of the War Department. To make that -management more effective, reasonable pay should be given competent -men, as the expenses of frontier life are usually considerable. Years -are required to comprehend and order, a practical management of people -who are, in one sense, but overgrown, vicious children. Such agents -should be retained as long as they remain honest and effective, -regardless of church or political creeds. - -As the wild tribes recognize no authority but that of the -_lex-taliones_; by this law they should be governed. _Any attempt -to govern or civilize them without the power to compel obedience, -will be looked upon by barbarians with derision_, and all idea of -Christianizing _adult_ Indians, while they realize the injustice done -them by the whites, will prove impracticable. The children may be -brought under some moderate system of compulsory education and labor, -but the adults never can be. _Moral suasion_ is not comprehended as -a _power_, for the Indian’s moral qualities seem not to have been -unfolded. - -The savage is naturally vain, cruel and arrogant. He boasts of his -murders and robberies, and the tortures of his victims very much in the -same manner that he recounts his deeds of valor in battle, his prowess -in killing the grizzly, and his skill in entrapping the beaver. His -treachery, is to him but cunning, his revenge a holy obligation, and -his religion but a superstitious fear. The Indians that have resorted -to labor as a means of future support, should be encouraged and -continued under the care of civilians. Their religious instruction, -like that of the whites, may safely be left to their own choice; but -for the _wild_ savage a just and humane control is necessary for their -own well-being, as well as that of the white people; for even in this -nineteenth century, life is sometimes sacrificed under some religious -delusion. - -The war between different tribes is a natural result of their efforts -to maintain _independent_ sovereignties. The motives that influence -them are not very unlike those that operate upon the most highly -favored _Christian nations_, except that religion, as a rule, has but -little to answer for, as they are mostly of one religious faith. All -believe in the influence of and communion with departed spirits. The -limited support afforded by the game of a given territory, frequently -compels encroachments that result in war. Ambition for fame and -leadership prompts young aspirants for the honors awarded to successful -warriors, and they bear an initiatory torture in order to prove their -fortitude and bravery, that would almost seem beyond human endurance. -After a reputation has been acquired as a successful leader, old feuds -must be maintained and new wars originated to gratify and employ -ambitious followers, or the glory and influence of the successful -chieftain will soon depart or be given to some new aspirant for the -leadership of the tribe. In their warlike movements, as in all their -private affairs, their “medicine men” are important personages. They -are supposed to have power to propitiate evil spirits or exorcise -them. They assume the duties of physicians, orators and advisers in -their councils, and perform the official duties of priests in their -religious ceremonies. In my inquiries concerning their religious faith, -I have sometimes been surprised, as well as amused, at the grotesque -expressions used in explanations of their crude ideas of theology. With -their mythology and traditions, would occasionally appear expressions -evidently derived from the teachings of Christianity, the origin of -which, no doubt, might have been traced to the old Missions. The -fugitive converts from those Missions being the means of engrafting -the Catholic element on to the original belief of the mountain tribes. -Their recitations were a peculiar mixture, but they vehemently claimed -them as original, and as revealed to them by the Great Spirit, through -his mediums or prophets (their “medicine men”), in visions and trances. -These “mediums,” in their character of priests, are held in great -veneration. - -They are consulted upon all important occasions, let it be of war, of -the chase, plunder or of marriage. They provide charms and amulets -to protect the wearer from the evil influence of adverse spirits and -the weapons of war, and receive for these mighty favors donations -corresponding to the support afforded Christian priests and ministers. -The sanctification of these relics is performed by an elaborate -mysterious ceremony, the climax of which is performed in secret by the -priestly magnate. The older the relic, the more sacred it becomes as an -heirloom. - -Marriage among the Indians is regarded from a business standpoint. -The preliminaries are usually arranged with the parents, guardians -and friends, by the patriarch of the family, or the chief of the -tribe. When an offer of marriage is made, the priest is consulted, he -generally designates the price to be paid for the _bride_. The squaws -of these mountain tribes are not generally voluptuous or ardent, and -notwithstanding their low and degraded condition, they were naturally -more virtuous, than has been generally supposed. - -Their government being largely patriarchal, the women are subjects of -the will of the patriarch in all domestic relations. The result is, -that they have become passively submissive creatures of men’s will. -Believing this to be the natural sphere of their existence, they hold -in contempt one who performs menial labor, which they have been taught -belongs to their sex alone. - -The habits of these mountain tribes being simple; their animal passions -not being stimulated by the condiments and artificial habits of -civilized life; they, in their native condition, closely resembled the -higher order of animals in pairing for offspring. The spring time is -their season of love. When the young clover blooms and the wild anise -throws its fragrance upon mountain and dell, then, in the seclusion of -the forest are formed those unions which among the civilized races are -sanctioned by the church and by the laws of the country. - -[Illustration: LAKE STAR KING.] - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - - Murder of Starkey--Death of Ten-ie-ya and Extinction of his Band--A - few Surviving Murderers--An Attempt at Reformation--A Failure and - loss of a Mule--Murders of Robert D. Sevil and Robert Smith--Alarm of - the People--A False Alarm. - - -During the winter of 1852-3, Jesse Starkey and Mr. Johnson, comrades of -the Mariposa battalion and expert hunters, were engaged in supplying -miners along the Mariposa Creek with venison and bear meat. They were -encamped on the head waters of the Chow-chilla and fearing no danger, -slept soundly in their encampment. They had met Indians from time to -time, who seemed friendly enough, and even the few escaped Yosemites -who recognized Starkey, showed no sign of dislike; and hence no proper -precautions were taken against their treachery. - -A few days only had passed in the occupation of hunting, when a night -attack was made upon the hunters. Starkey was instantly killed, but -Johnson, though wounded, escaped to Mariposa on one of their mules. - -James M. Roan, Deputy Sheriff under Captain Boling, took direction of -the wounded man, and with a posse of but 15 miners, went out to the -Chow-chilla, where they found the naked and mutilated remains of poor -Starkey, which they buried uncoffined at the camp. - -After that sad duty was accomplished, the little party of brave men -pursued the trail of the savages into the Snowy Mountains, where they -were overtaken and given merited chastisement. Three Indians fell dead -at the first fire, while others were wounded and died afterwards. - -No united effort was made to repel the whites, and panic-stricken, the -renegade robbers fled into their hidden recesses. Cossom, an Indian -implicated, confessed, long afterwards, that their loss in the attack -was at least a dozen killed and wounded, and that the robber murderers -of Starkey were renegade Yosemite and other Indians who had refused -to live at the reservation. It was several months after Mr. Roan’s -encounter with those Indians before I learned the full particulars, and -when any of the remnants of the band of Yosemites appealed to me for -aid, I still gave them relief. - -DURING the summer of 1853, Mr. E. G. Barton and myself were engaged in -trading and mining on the Merced. We had established a station on the -north side of the river, several miles above the mouth of the North -Fork. We here had the patronage of the miners on the river and its -branches above, as well as in our own vicinity, and from the North -Fork. From some of the miners who visited our store from the vicinity -of the South Fork, I learned that a short time before, a small party -of the Yosemities had come to their diggings and asked for food and -protection from their enemies, who, they said, had killed their chief -and most of their people, and were pursuing themselves. The affrighted -and wounded wretches reported to them that they had been attacked while -in their houses by a large party of Monos from the other side of the -mountains, and that all of their band had been killed except those who -had asked protection. - -The miners had allowed the Indians to camp near by, but refused to give -them any but a temporary supply of food. - -Knowing that I was familiar with the Valley, and acquainted with the -band, they asked my advice as to what they ought to do with their -neighbors. - -Feeling some sympathy for the people who had made their homes in the -Yosemite, and thinking that I might aid and induce them to work as -miners, I sent them word to come down to our store, as there were -plenty of fish and acorns near by. A few came, when I told them that if -in future they were _good Indians_, the whites would protect them from -their enemies, and buy their gold. They expressed a willingness to work -for food and clothing if they could find gold. - -I furnished them some tools to prospect, and they came back sanguine of -success. A Tu-ol-um-ne Indian named “Joe,” and two or three families -of Yosemities came down and camped on Bull Creek and commenced to -gather acorns, while “Joe” as head miner, worked with the others in the -gulches and on the North Fork. This experiment of working and reforming -robbers soon proved a failure, for upon the death of one of them who -had been injured, they could not be induced to remain or work any -longer, and “Joe,” and his new followers stampeded for the Hetch-Hetchy -Valley. - -From these Indians, and subsequently from others, I learned the -following statements relative to the death of Old Ten-ie-ya. After the -murder of the French miners from Coarse Gold Gulch, and his escape from -Lieut. Moore, Ten-ie-ya, with the larger part of his band, fled to the -east side of the Sierras. He and his people were kindly received by the -Monos and secreted until Moore left that locality and returned to Fort -Miller. - -Ten-ie-ya was recognized, by the Mono tribe, as one of their number, as -he was born and lived among them until his ambition made him a leader -and founder of the Pai-Ute colony in Ah-wah-ne. His history and warlike -exploits formed a part of the traditionary lore of the Monos. They were -proud of his successes and boasted of his descent from their tribe, -although Ten-ie-ya himself claimed that his father was the chief of an -independent people, whose ancestors were of a different race. Ten-ie-ya -had, by his cunning and sagacity in managing the deserters from other -tribes, who had sought his protection, maintained a reputation as a -chief whose leadership was never disputed by his followers, and who -was the envy of the leaders of other tribes. After his subjugation by -the whites, he was deserted by his followers, and his supremacy was no -longer acknowledged by the neighboring tribes, who had feared rather -than respected him or the people of his band. Ten-ie-ya and his refugee -band were so hospitably received and entertained by the Monos that they -seemed in no hurry to return to their valley. - -According to custom with these mountaineers, a portion of territory -was given to them for their occupancy by consent of the tribe; -for individual right to territory is not claimed, nor would it be -tolerated. Ten-ie-ya staid with the Monos until late in the summer -or early autumn of 1853, when he and his people suddenly left the -locality that had been assigned to them, and returned to their haunts -in the Yosemite valley, with the intention of remaining there unless -again driven out by the whites. Permanent wigwams were constructed by -the squaws, near the head of the valley, among the rocks, not readily -discernable to visitors. Not long after Ten-ie-ya had re-established -himself in his old home, a party of his young men left on a secret -foraging expedition for the camp of the Monos, which was then -established at or near Mono Lake. According to the statement made to -me, there had just been a successful raid and capture of horses by the -Monos and Pai-Utes from some of the Southern California ranchos, and -Ten-ie-ya’s men concluded, rather than risk a raid on the white men, to -steal from the Mono’s, trusting to their cunning to escape detection. - -Ten-ie-ya’s party succeeded in _recapturing_ a few of the stolen -horses, and after a circuitous and baffling route through the pass at -the head of the San Joaquin, finally reached the valley with their -spoils. - -After a few days’ delay, and thinking themselves secure, they killed -one or more of the horses, and were in the enjoyment of a grand feast -in honor of their return, when the Mono’s pounced down upon them. -Their gluttony seemed to have rendered them oblivious of all danger -to themselves, and of the ingratitude by which the feast had been -supplied. Like sloths, they appear to have been asleep after having -surfeited their appetites. They were surprised in their wig-wams by the -wronged and vengeful Monos and before they could rally for the fight, -the treacherous old chief was struck down by the hand of a powerful -young Mono chief. Ten-ie-ya had been the principal object of attack -at the commencement of the assault, but he had held the others at bay -until discovered by the young chief, who having exhausted his supply of -arrows, seized a fragment of rock and hurled it with such force as to -crush the skull of “the old grizzly.” As Ten-ie-ya fell, other stones -were cast upon him by the attacking party, after the Pai-ute custom, -until he was literally stoned to death. All but eight of Ten-ie-ya’s -young braves were killed; these escaped down the valley, and through -the cañon below. - -The old men and women, who survived the first assault, were permitted -to escape from the valley. The young women and children were made -captives and taken across the mountains to be held as slaves or drudges -to their captors. I frequently entertained the visitors at our store on -the Merced with descriptions of the valley. The curiosity of some of -the miners was excited, and they proposed to make a visit as soon as it -could be made with safety. I expressed the opinion that there would be -but little danger from Indians, as the Mono’s and Pai-utes only came -for acorns, and that the Yo-sem-i-ties were so nearly destroyed, that -at least, while they were mourning the loss of their chief, and their -people, no fear need be entertained of them. - -Three of these miners, from the North Fork of the Merced, visited the -valley soon after this interview. These men were from Michigan. Their -glowing descriptions on their return, induced five others from the -North Fork to visit it also. On their return trip they missed the trail -that would have taken them over the ridge to their own camp and kept -on down to the path which led to our establishment. While partaking of -our hospitalities, they discussed the incidents of their excursion, and -I was soon convinced that they had been to the Yosemite. They spoke -of the lower and the high fall rather disparagingly, and expressed -disappointment, when told of the existence of cascades and cataracts, -that they had not known of or seen. I questioned them as to Indians, -and learned that they had not seen any on the trip, but had seen -deserted huts below the cañon. - -I learned soon after, from some miners from the mouth of the “South -Fork,” that all of the Yosemites who had camped on the flats below the -cañon, had left suddenly for the Tuolumne. These two parties were the -first white men that visited the Yosemite Valley after the visit of -Lieut. Moore, the year before (1852). The names of these miners have -now passed from my memory, but I afterwards met one of these gentlemen -at Mr. George W. Coulter’s Hotel, in Coultersville, and another at Big -Oak Flat, and both seemed well known to Lovely Rogers and other old -residents. I was shown, by the first party, some good specimens of gold -quartz that had been found on the north side of the Merced below the -cañon. Late in the fall of this year (1853), three of the remnant of -Ten-ie-ya’s band came to our store. They did not offer to trade, and -when questioned, told me that they had been camping on the Tuolumne, -and had come down to the Merced to get some fish. I gave them some -provisions, and they left, apparently satisfied if not thankful. A -few nights afterwards, one of our best mules disappeared. This mule -was a favorite mountain animal, sure footed and easy gaited under the -saddle. In following up its tracks, I discovered that it had been -stolen by Indians, and my suspicions were that my Yosemite friends were -the culprits. I made every effort to recover the animal, but without -success. - -After the close of the mining season in the fall of 1853, we left our -trading establishment and mining works in charge of two men in our -employ, Robt. D. Sevil, of Smyrna, Delaware, and Robt. Smith, a Dane. -The establishment was visited from time to time, by either Barton or -myself during the winter of 1853-54, when upon one occasional visit, -it was found by Mr. Barton to have been plundered. With Nat. Harbert, -a brave Texan, I at once started for the establishment, only to find -it a scene of desolation. I was informed by some miners who had been -out prospecting, that the body of Smith had been found on a slaty -point in the river below, but that nothing could be discovered of -Sevil, or the murderers. We found the tracks of Indians and traced -them to the mountains, but failed to find their hiding places. We lost -their trail over the bare, slaty ground above the river. The tracks -had indicated to us that Indians were the murderers, before we had -learned from the miners the circumstances connected with the finding -of Smith’s body. It had been pierced by nine arrows, five of which -were still found quivering in his flesh. Upon the discovery of the -body by the miners, a burial party was led by Doctor Porter, from the -North Fork, to the scene of the murders; and with the assistance of his -associates, Mr. Long, and others, it was given proper burial. The body -of Sevil was not found until long afterwards. When discovered, it was -undistinguishable, but from the location in the river, we had no doubt -of its identity. I reported the murders and robbery to the authorities -of Mariposa county. Captain Boling was sheriff; but having business -that required his urgent attention, deputized me to act for him in -the matter. He expressed a decided belief that the murders had been -committed by the Yosemities. He recommended me to take a strong posse -with me, and to be cautious and guarded against treachery; saying: -“You know as well as I do, that all of the Yosemities are murderers -and thieves.” In reply, I informed him of the killing of Ten-ie-ya -and nearly all of his band by the Monos; and told him that I had -ridden alone through the country wherever business called me, and that -whenever I had met any of the old band they seemed quite friendly. The -Captain said he would not visit the valley without sufficient force to -protect himself. Upon telling him of the encampment on the Tuolumne, -Captain Boling said that was beyond his jurisdiction. - -Mr. Harbert and myself concluded to make a thorough exploration for the -murderers, and with this object in view, rode to Marble Springs, and -commenced our search along the Tuolumne divide, hoping to find some -place where the tracks would be found once more concentrated. After a -tiresome search, without success or encouragement, we went down to the -camp of the miners, on the North Fork, to consult with them. We found -old acquaintances among these gentlemen, and Dr. Porter and Mr. Long -were especially hospitable. It was the opinion of these intelligent -gentlemen, that the murderers had gone to the Upper Tuolumne river and -were banded with the renegades of the Tuolumne tribe that had once been -under Ten-ie-ya. They expressed the belief that not less than twenty -men should undertake an expedition against them. As the principal -articles stolen from our store were clothing and blankets, it was -supposed the murderers would probably be found near some of the acorn -_caches_ in the mountain cañons. - -Feeling it would be useless to attempt anything further without an -authorized expedition, we left the North Fork and our hospitable -friends, and at once returned to Mariposa, where I reported to Sheriff -Boling and Judge Bondurant the result of our trip. These officials -decided that the territory which it would be necessary to explore, was -not within their jurisdiction. That they had no authority to declare -war against the Tuolumne Indians, but said that they would report the -circumstances of the murders and robberies to the military authorities, -to the Governor, and to the officials of Tuolumne county. Here the -matter rested, and nothing more was ever done by public authority. I -was afterwards advised to put in a claim on the two hundred and fifty -thousand dollars voted by Congress for the Indians of California; but -after some consideration of this advice, my conclusion was that the -original claimants to this money would scarcely be willing to make any -division of their legitimate spoils. - -Although no action had been taken by the authorities, the murders of -Sevil and Smith soon became generally known, and the inhabitants of -Mariposa became alarmed from the rumors in circulation, of another -general outbreak. I visited the Fresno Agency and found that the -Indians there had heard of the raid on our establishment, and, on -interrogating them, they expressed the opinion that the Yosemites were -the ones who had murdered the men. Their theory of the attack was, -that they had first killed the men for the sake of the clothing on -their persons, and afterwards had robbed the store of the clothing and -blankets, because they were cold in their mountain retreat, and yet -dared not live among other people. Some of these, at the Fresno, said -that if the whites would fit out an expedition, they would go and help -_kill_ the murderers; “for,” said they, “those are bad Indians. They -dare not visit the reservation, for we know that they would steal from -us and the white people, and then we would all be made to suffer from -their misconduct. We are now afraid to leave the reservation to hunt, -lest we be mistaken and killed for what they have done.” - -I was convinced by my visit to the agency, that there was no grounds -for fear of another outbreak among the Indians. I traveled about as I -had usually done before. I was cautious in out-of-the-way places, but -I cannot say that I hesitated at any time to prospect. When I heard -people express an opinion that it would be dangerous to enter the -Yosemite Valley without a strong escort, I refrained from expressing my -convictions. I felt unwilling to publicly oppose the opinions of some -of my late comrades, more especially after my recent experience with -the Yosemites. During the summer of 1854 no visits were made to the -valley, as far as I know, and if there had been, I was so situated as -likely to have been acquainted with the fact. Many of my old companions -in the battalion, never shared my admiration for the Yosemite. Their -descriptions were so common-place as to lead the people of the village -of Mariposa to suppose that, as a curiosity, the scenery would scarcely -repay the risk and labor of a visit. The murders of Smith and Sevil -deterred some who had designed to visit the valley that season. The -nervous ones were still further alarmed by a general stampede of the -miners on the South Fork of the Merced, which occurred in the summer of -that year (1854). This was caused by a visit to their neighborhood of -some Pai-Utes and Monos, from the east side of the Sierras, who came to -examine the prospects for the acorn-harvest, and probably take back -with them some they had _cached_. - -This visit of strange Indians to some of the miners’ camps, was not at -first understood and a wild alarm was raised without a comprehension of -the facts of the case. Captain Boling, as sheriff, summoned to his aid -a number of the old members of his company. I was one of the number. -We made a night ride to the place of alarm, and on arriving, found -that we had been sold. We felt chagrined, although it was gratifying -to learn that alarm had been made without a cause. An old ’49er, that -we found, apologized for the verdants. He said: “Probably, as long as -men continue about as they now are, we must expect to find fools in -all communities; but, if a premium for d---- fools should be offered -by any responsible party, you will see a bigger stampede from these -diggings than these Indians have made.” The whiskey was ordered for the -old stager, and the apology considered as acceptable. We returned to -Mariposa wiser, if not _better_ men. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX. - - Engineering and History--Speculation and Discouragement--A - New Deal--Wall Street--A Primitive Bridge--First Woman in the - Yosemite--Lady Visitors from Mariposa and Lady Teachers from - San Francisco--Measurements of Heights--First Houses, and their - Occupants--A Gay Party and a Glorious Feast. - - -Although no visits were made during the year 1854 to the Yosemite -Valley, it was at this time that the existence of such a locality began -to be generally known outside of the limits of Mariposa county. Many of -the inhabitants of that county, however, were still incredulous of its -being any more remarkable than some other localities among the Sierras. -As a matter of early history, I will give a few details of occurrences -indirectly connected with the bringing of this valley to the attention -of the public as a wonderful natural curiosity. - -During the year 1854 an effort was made by a party of engineers from -Tuolumne county, to explore a route by which water could be brought -from the South Fork of the Merced river into the “dry diggings.” -After a reconnoissance, the route was pronounced too expensive to be -profitable, as the supply of water would be insufficient, unless the -ditch should be extended to the main river, which was not considered -practicable. - -Notwithstanding this adverse report, the Mariposa “Chronicle” continued -to advocate the practicability of the proposed plan, and made some -effort to induce capitalists to take an interest in the enterprise, -claiming that like investments had proved profitable in the northern -mines. To test the feasibility of such a project, Colonel Caruthers and -Angevine Reynolds, then of Stockton, came up to explore and run a line -of levels over the route. They brought with them, as engineer, Capt. -Kiel, a practical surveyor, and a most accomplished mathematician. -Captain Boling, having referred these gentlemen to me as one most -likely to aid in their undertaking, and practically familiar with that -part of the country, I joined them in their enterprise. We started our -survey at the “Snow Creek” divide. Col. Caruthers was enthusiastic over -the prospect of success, as we advanced, but after rounding the point -at “Devil’s Gulch,” and while Mr. Reynolds and myself were establishing -a flag station on the opposite side, the Colonel collapsed and ordered -a discontinuance of the survey. - -Not feeling satisfied with this decision, Mr. Reynolds and myself, -mutually agreed to complete the survey. Reynolds was a man of energy -and indomitable perseverance. He was the first to establish an -express to the Southern mines, and afterwards was for fourteen years -successively elected to responsible offices in Mariposa county. I -handled the instrument, and Mr. Reynolds acted as rodman. We continued -the line up, passed all real obstacles, and then Captain Kiel, who was -quite an old gentleman, completed the survey and mapped out the route. -During this survey, Mr. Reynolds and myself crossed the South Fork -and explored along the divide. We were within six or seven miles of -the Yosemite, but did not go to it. _This was the only year since its -discovery, that it was not visited by white men._ No Indians were seen -by our party, during the time of this survey. - -The next season, 1855, the survey began by Caruthers, Reynolds and -myself, was pushed with vigor, and although the subject matter of -extending the ditch to the main stream was freely discussed and -advocated by the _Chronicle_, no action was taken. Up to this time, the -Yosemite was scarcely thought of by the generality of gold hunters and -denizens of Mariposa county; that is, in connexion with its stupendous -cliffs and wonderful scenery. The solemn grandeur of the locality, and -the immensity of the rocks which formed the sides of its inclosing -walls, as well as its lofty water-falls, were but barely noticed by -Lt. Moore in his report, to which allusion has been made in a previous -chapter. - -Lt. Moore made no measurements, nor attempted to give any specific -descriptions. He only stated unadorned facts and practical impressions. -These, however, had in 1854 gone out into the world, and the wonders -of the place were more generally known and appreciated by the literary -and scientific, than by those in its more immediate vicinity. During -the summer of 1855, Mr. J. M. Hutchings, editor and publisher of -“Hutchings’ California Magazine,” conceived the idea of visiting the -Calaveras “Big Trees” and the Yosemite Valley. As a literary man he -was aware that these objects of wonder and curiosity would provide -many interesting articles for his periodical. He engaged the services -of a well-known artist of San Francisco, Mr. Thomas Ayres, to provide -sketches for his descriptive articles. He first visited “The Big Trees” -of Calaveras; at Coultersville and Horse Shoe Bend, Mr. Alex. Stair -and Wesley Millard joined his party. Mr. Hutchings’ announcement at -Mariposa that he was on his way to visit “_their wonderful valley_,” -was considered as an indifferent joke by some; others, who had heard of -it in connection with the “Indian war,” asked him if he was not afraid -of the Indians; if it was worth the risk to go there. Mr. Hutchings -failed to get much information from those of whom he made inquiries at -Mariposa. He finally interviewed Captain Boling, who told him where he -could procure a guide. - -In anticipation of meeting with numerous difficulties on the way, or -for other reasons, he hired two guides and started for the valley. The -difficulties of the journey vanished as he approached. The excitement -of the trip made the party forgetful of the fatigue and roughness of -the mountain journey. - -I met Stair and Millard,--who were especial friends of mine,--not long -after their return from this trip. They were very enthusiastic on the -subject of the Yosemite. The enthusiastic descriptions given by the -Hutchings party, on its return, aroused the curiosity of the people, -staggered the skeptics, and silenced the croakers. Not long afterwards, -two parties visited it; one from Sherlocks and the other from Mariposa. -With the party from Sherlocks, were the Mann brothers, who afterwards -built a trail from Mariposa to the valley. They commenced it in the -fall of that year, 1855. Mr. Hutchings’ publications and lithographic -illustration of the Yosemite, or highest fall, served to advertise the -attractions. From this period may be dated the commencement of the -visits of tourists. His influence has aided materially in affording -improved facilities of access to it, and in providing for the comfort -of visitors. The interest growing out of Mr. Hutchings’ visit to the -Yosemite, together with the rumored prospect that Fremont & Co. were -about to do something with the “Mariposa Estate,” aroused the energy of -local capitalists, and encouraged the advent of settlers and miners. -Another company was organized to bring water from the foot of the -valley into the “dry diggings.” The limited supply from the South Fork, -it was thought, would be insufficient for the prospective demand. -Sufficient inducements having been offered to warrant the undertaking, -Mr. George K. Peterson, an engineer by profession, and myself, joined -in making the necessary survey. We leveled two lines down through the -cañon, below the Yosemite, on to the divide of the South Fork. To -cross the South Fork without expending too much altitude, we found a -long tunnel would be required, besides a suspension of over 800 feet. - -This, for a time, discouraged a continuance of the survey. We returned -to Mariposa and frankly reported the results of our work and explained -the difficulties of the route to those who were most interested in the -project. For certain reasons it was deemed advisable to complete the -survey between the branches of the river; when it was thought that some -equitable arrangement could be made with the South Fork Company for -a union of interests in case of sale. The Yosemite Company proposed -to convey water over or near the same route as the other, and also to -supply water to the miners on the north side of the Merced. By this -stroke of policy, it was supposed that a _legal_ division of water -could be obtained, that the New Yorkers (Fremont & Co.) would only -be too glad to pay for. I did not feel sanguine in the success of -this scheme, and so expressed myself. My experience in the cañon with -Peterson taught me that an equivalent in cash, which was offered for -my services (and which I accepted), was better than any speculative -interest _in Spain_, or even New York. The survey was accordingly -recommenced. Four of the company put up the body of a house in the -valley. This was the first house ever erected there. It was of white -cedar “_puncheons_,” plank split out of logs. The builders of it -supposed that a claim in the valley would doubly secure the water -privileges. We made this building our headquarters; covering the -roof with our tents. We continued work on this survey until late in -November; and until the falling snow rendered the hillside work most -difficult; we then returned to Mariposa. - -During this survey, while exploring the dividing ridges of the Merced -river and the South Fork, our party ran on to an encampment of the -wretched Yosemites; mostly old men and women. They had gone out on the -extreme southwestern point of the divide on the slope of the South Fork. - -As Peterson planted his instrument for an observation, the Indians -cried out in alarm, thinking no doubt that he was aiming some infernal -machine to destroy them. I approached to see if I could recognize any -of them as those who had visited our store, before the murders of our -men. I also scrutinized their clothing; but their ragged garments would -not admit of even a surmise as to their quality or pattern. - -Although I failed to recognize our visitors among these miserable -people; it was quite evident that I was known to them. I asked “who -it was that had killed the men at our store?” They at first pretended -not to understand me; but seeing that they were not believed, one came -forward, and in a mixture of Spanish and Indian informed me that it was -the Tuolume Indians that were the criminals; while they themselves (if -not the cleanest) were certainly the best Indians in the mountains. -Upon being asked why they were camped in such a place--without water, -they said they were at first afraid of our party and the glistening -instrument that had been aimed at them; but, that when they saw we -were measuring the ground, and marking the trees, they were no longer -alarmed, but were afraid of the Monos, whom they said were still angry -with them. I told them that it was because of their treachery and -dishonesty that they had been made to suffer, and then left them in -their wretchedness. - -Quite early in the next year (1856), the survey for the water supply -was recommenced under instructions from Colonel Fremont, and, under -direction of his chief engineer, Mr. J. E. Clayton, Mr. Peterson was -placed in charge of the field-work. This work was executed with great -care, as on its accuracy the estimates depended. They were to be made -by a very eminent engineer of the Erie Canal, upon whose report, it was -supposed, Wall street would be governed. Peterson engaged me as his -assistant in this survey. During this season the Mann Brothers finished -their trail to the Yosemite, so that it was used by visitors. Hearing -that they had felled some immense trees and bridged the South Fork, -Mr. Peterson had hopes to reach the valley earlier in the season by -crossing the river at that place. - -On reaching the South Fork, where we supposed the bridge to be we -found that a large tree had been felled across the stream with the -design of forming the foundation of a bridge, but it had fallen so -low, or so near the water on the opposite side, that a flood would be -likely to sweep it away, and it had, therefore, been abandoned. This -was a great disappointment to Mr. Peterson. As we could not ford the -stream, we would have to go into camp or wait for the water to fall or -go back, for the snow-clad ridges were impassable. While Peterson was -considering the matter, I took an axe and sloped and notched the butt -of the tree so that I was able to get my horse, an intelligent animal, -to clamber up on the prostrate trunk; when, without difficulty, I led -him safely across and landed him on the other side of the stream. We -had two mules, whose natural timidity caused them to hesitate before -attempting to climb the log, but their attachment for the horse, which -they had seen safely cross, with some _persuasion_ effected with a -stout cudgel counteracted their fears, and they too were safely led -over. - -The tree was about six feet in diameter. Its cork-like bark afforded -sure footing for the animals. Peterson--very much pleased--pronounced -this the most primitive bridge ever crossed by a pack-train, and -declared that it should be recorded as an original engineering feat. - -While we were re-loading our animals the Mann Brothers came down to -us, as they said to learn how we had crossed the rushing torrent; and -were surprised to hear that we had utilized the tree abandoned by them. -They informed us that they were constructing a bridge further up the -stream, which would be ready for crossing in a week or two. We found no -further difficulty in reaching the valley. Not long after we had gone -into camp, and commenced our survey again, visitors began to come into -the valley. Several gentlemen from San Francisco visited our camp, one -of whom I remember was the Rev. Doctor Spier, of the Chinese Mission, -in San Francisco. Mr. Peterson had, upon my solicitation, “roded up” -to the level of the Pohona Fall, and made as accurate an estimate of -the probable height of El Capitan as could be done without the aid of -his transit. Mr. Peterson was therefore able to enlighten some of the -gentlemen from “the Bay,” as to the approximate height of El Capitan -and other prominent objects. Mr. Peterson afterwards made more accurate -measurements of heights. - -I have no doubt that the four gentlemen referred to as living in -the valley, noticed in the note on page 18, in “Whitney’s Yosemite -Guide Book,” were of our party, who had notified the public of their -claim and intention to make that their residence. The house erected, -however, was never honored with a roof, and the material of which it -was composed, soon disappeared, after we ceased to occupy it. The -difficulties developed by our survey, disheartened the claimants. The -claim rights, as well as the claim shanty were alike abandoned. - -The first white woman that ever visited the Yosemite was a Madame -Gautier, the housekeeper at the Franklin House, Mariposa. A few days -afterwards Mrs. Johnny Neil, of Mariposa, and Mrs. Thompson, of -Sherlocks, came up. Their courage and endurance should certainly be -made a matter of record. The next ladies to visit the place were of the -party with Mr. Denman, of “Denman’s High School,” in San Francisco. -After this it ceased to be a novelty to see ladies in the Yosemite. -Mr. Denman published an account of his trip. His communication was a -well written and instructive article. It was the _first_ description -that gave the public any definite idea of the magnitude of the scenery, -or any accuracy of measurements of the heights of the cliffs and -water-falls. I was present when Mr. Peterson gave to Mr. Denman the -results of his observations, and consequent estimate of heights. I -was amused at Mr. Denman’s expressions of surprise, and his anxious -but polite inquiries of Mr. Peterson if he was _sure_ his angles had -been correctly marked. Peterson colored slightly at the doubt implied -of his professional skill, but with unusual politeness and apparent -cheerfulness offered to make a resurvey of El Capitan or any other -prominent cliff that Mr. Denman would select for measurement. - -The offer was quickly accepted, and a new determination of several -points of interest were made. - -From the notes taken, each of the gentlemen computed the heights. - -Mr. Peterson soon figured up the result of his work, and patiently -awaited the result of Mr. Denman’s, before he announced his own. - -After figuring for sometime, Mr. Denman expressed a belief that -he had made a grand mistake somewhere in his calculations, for he -had made the result more than the previous estimates and above all -seeming probabilities. They then compared figures and found but little -difference in their heights. Mr. Denman again worked up the notes, and -was convinced of their correctness and reported his conclusions in -his descriptions. The first house erected in the valley for the -accommodation of visitors was _commenced_ in 1856, by Mr. Walworth and -Mr. Hite. It, was made of “boards” rived out of pine logs. The site was -that of our old camp-ground of 1851, or a little above it, and nearly -opposite the Yosemite Fall. - -The next season a blue canvas-covered building was put up just above. -In 1858, Mr. Beardsley joined with Mr. Hite, and erected a wooden -house. This was afterwards kept by Mr. Peck, Mr. Longhurst, and after -1864, by Mr. Hutchings. Other accommodations for the public were also -opened, a popular one of which was a house kept by G. F. Leidig, known -to tourists as “Leidig’s Hotel.” The first permanent resident, was J. -C. Lamon, who made a claim in the upper part of the valley in 1860, -and who occupied it both summer and winter for many years. The other -residents in the valley only remaining during the season of tourists -visits. Before hotel accommodations were provided for the public, -visitors to the valley carried with them camp equipage and supplies -according to the necessities and inclinations of the parties interested. - -In order to dispense with a retinue of camp followers, and the expense -of numerous employees, the duties of camp life were ordinarily divided -among the party, without regard to wealth, rank, or station in life. -It was usually made a point of honor, to at least try to share in -the necessary laborious requirements of their associates; although -the various duties were not always assigned to the capacity of the -individual, or to his adaptation to the position. The blunders were as -often sources of amusement, as serious inconveniences. As illustration, -I will narrate an incident with a party of excursionists in those early -days. - -By invitation, I met and accompanied a party from San Francisco on a -visit to the Yosemite. The gentlemen composing the party, were Mr. -Thomas Ayers, Mr. Forbes, of the firm of Forbes & Babcock, agents of -Pacific Mail S. S. Co.; Mr. Holladay, of same company; Mr. Easton, -of San Francisco, and Col. Riply, of the Commodore Perry expedition, -who, I believe, afterwards became General Riply, Chief of Ordinance, -U. S. A. Mr. Ayers was the artist who accompanied Mr. Hutchings on -his first visit to the valley. He was the first to sketch any of the -scenery of the Yosemite. He was afterwards employed in sketching by the -Harpers, of New York. While so employed, he was lost off the Farrilones -Islands by the capsizing of the schooner “Laura Beven.” Mr. Ayers was -a gentleman in feeling and manners. His ingenuity and adaptability to -circumstances, with his uniform kindness and good nature, made him the -very soul of the party. - -This party spent several days in the valley. On the last day, it was -proposed to have a grand dinner. To make the event a memorable one, -it was decided that each one should have a representative dish of -his own individual preparation. We had a plentiful supply of canned -meats, fruits, etc., but it was proposed that our bill of fare should -consist of game and fish. Trout, grouse and quail, were then tolerably -abundant. To guard against a possibility of failure to supply a full -variety, Colonel Riply volunteered to provide a dish of beans of -his own cooking, which he thought he was prepared to furnish. The -cooking of beans was theoretically familiar to him, the Colonel said, -from having frequently observed the process among his soldiers. He -admitted that, practically, he had never tested the theory, but he -felt confident that he would not disgrace his position as a soldier -in the cooking of such a prominent army dish. From my knowledge of -their haunts, it was assigned to me to provide the game, while Messrs. -Easton, Ayers and Holladay, engaged to supply the spread with trout. -Mr. Forbes engaged to perform the duty of supplying wood and water,--a -very important office, he claimed, the very foundation of all our -endeavors. I left the Colonel busy on his part of the programme, and -soon acquired a liberal supply of grouse and quail. - -As I came into camp from my hunt, my nostrils were saluted with the -smell of burnt beans. Mr. Forbes had supplied the fire most liberally, -and was resting from his labors to the _windward_. I removed the kettle -and inquired for the Colonel. Mr. Forbes replied that “Col. Riply -went down where the fishermen are engaged, and has been gone an hour -or more; no doubt he has forgotten his beans.” I hastened to repair -damages as far as I was able by removing those not scorched from off -the burnt ones. After scouring the kettle with sand, I succeeded in -getting them over a slow fire before Col. Riply returned. He soon came -hurriedly into camp, and after taking a look at his cookery, pronounced -them all right, but said he had _almost_ forgotten that he was on duty -as cook. - -Observing that he was about to charge the kettle with an undue -proportion of salt pork, I again saved the beans, this time from -petrifaction, by remarking that their _delicacy_ would be enhanced by -parboiling the pork. - -With my guardianship, the Colonel’s dish was brought on to the board in -a very good condition for eating, and all united in bestowing upon him -unstinted praise for providing so palatable an addition to our feast. -Col. Riply regretted that he had not provided _more_, but explained by -saying that he had supposed _they would swell more while cooking_. - -The secret of the _burnt beans_, was known to all the others, but was -kept inviolate from the Colonel. He was unconscious of the joke, and -bestowed more attention on this standard New England dish than he did -upon the delicious trout and game. Our dinner was finished in bumpers -to Colonel Riply as _chef de cuisine_. - -During the survey of the year, in addition to measurements, we gave -some attention to the geological features of the country we were -passing over. We found that the cañon below the Yosemite is about six -miles long, and so filled with vast granite bowlders and talus, that -it is impossible for any but the agile and sure-footed to pass safely -through. The river has to be crossed and recrossed so many times, by -jumping from bowlder to bowlder, where the water goes whirling and -dashing between--that if the rocks be moss-grown or slimy, as they may -be outside of continuous current--one’s life is endangered. During our -survey through this cañon, in the month of November, 1855, we failed to -get through in one day on our preliminary survey, and were compelled to -camp without food or blankets, only sheltered from a storm--half snow, -half rain--by an overhanging rock. The pelting mountain storm put out -our fires, as it swept down the cañon, and baffled all our attempts to -kindle a new flame. - -The fall through the cañon is so great, that none but the largest -bowlders remain in the current. Some of these immense rocks are so -piled, one upon another, as to make falls of nearly one hundred feet. -The fall for the entire distance is about fifteen hundred feet. -Notwithstanding the fall is so great in so short a distance, advantage -may be taken of the configuration of the walls on either side to -construct a railroad up through the cañon into the valley, upon a -grade and trestle, that may be made practicable. This will, of course, -cost money, but it will probably be done. By tunneling the divide and -spanning the South Fork with a bridge, a narrow-gauge road could very -readily be built that would avoid the necessity of going _entirely_ -through the cañon. This could be accomplished most economically by -trestling over the talus--at a favorable point--high enough to obtain -and preserve a suitable grade, until the sloping mountains below can -be reached, when the line can be run without difficulty to the most -favorable point of crossing the divide and the South Fork. - -The obstructions from snow, encountered in a winter trip to the valley, -would by this route, be entirely avoided. Beside, the distance would be -somewhat lessened. By rail and stage it is now about 225 miles from San -Francisco. - -After emerging from the cañon, with its precipitous granite cliffs and -water falls, the entire character of the river’s bed and banks are -changed. The cliffs have now all disappeared with the granite, and -although the steep high mountain divides encroach hard upon the river; -high bars or low flats continue on down to the mouth of the South Fork -on one side or the other, and then the flats rise higher to the plains. - -The fall of the Merced river from the foot of the cañon to the valley -of the San Joaquin, averages about thirty-five feet to the mile as -estimated by Mr. Peterson. - -The outcroppings from the rocky divides below the cañon, are -porphyritic, metamorphic, and trappean rocks, silicious limestone, -gneiss, green stone, quartz and several varieties of slate. At a point -on the left bank of the Merced, near the plain, there is an outcropping -of very good limestone, and it is also found, at one point in the -Yosemite. - -The quartz lodes drained by the Merced river, especially those of -Marble Springs, Gentry’s gulch and Maxwells creek, bore a good -reputation in early days; and as the drainage may be made complete, no -difficulty in working them need be encountered. In some cases, the more -prominent lodes, maintain their general direction and thickness (seldom -richness) on both sides of the Merced; as, for instance, the celebrated -Carson vein. This vein outcrops at the Peña Blanca, near Coultersville, -and again south of the Merced river, on a spur running down from Mount -Bullion. Here the vein is known as the Johnson Lode, and is divided -into the Pine Tree and Josephine sections. These were made famous as -the subject of a legal dispute, and were occupied by opposing and armed -forces in the interest of “The Merced Mining Company,” on the one side, -and Col. Fremont and his associates on the other. - -This lode was discovered in the winter of 1850-’51, by a progressive -Virginia liberal, named B. F. Johnson, familiarly known as “Quartz -Johnson.” - -His discoveries led to the investment of millions of capital in mining -enterprises, and if the share-holders of Mariposa Stock have not yet -realized upon their investments, it cannot be for want of material; -but, I must return to my subject. After having completed the survey of -this year, 1856, and having interests at Marble Springs, I joined with -George W. Coulter, of Coultersville, and other citizens in constructing -what became known as “_The Coultersville Free Trail_.” We thought the -scheme advisable, but the “_general public_” thought the trail a little -too progressive for the wants of Coultersville, and the burden of -construction was left to be borne by a few. I never realized any return -from this investment. This trail was well located, and considering the -amount expended, a comparatively easy one, for the trip to and from the -valley was made with comfortable ease. - -The trail completed this year by the Mann brothers required greater -labor, and was not as good a route, but the views of the Yosemite from -their trail, were the best. The Mann brothers did not find theirs -a paying investment. They never realized their expenditures, and -eventually sold the trail at a loss. - -In locating the Coultersville trail, little or no aid was afforded me -by the Indian trails that existed at that time; for horses had not -seemingly been taken into the valley on the north side, and the foot -trails used by the Indians left no traces in the loose granite soil -of the higher ridges, but what were soon obliterated by the wash from -the melting snow. Where trails were found, they had been purposely -run over ground impassable to horses, and they were, consequently, -unavailable for our use. Through liberal aid from the “Empire State -Mining Company,” located at their quartz lode near the Marble Springs, -Mr. Barton and myself had built a wagon road from Coultersville to Bull -Creek. This road afforded a good commencement for the Yosemite trail. - -The first encampment reached after leaving Bull creek, was “Deer Flat,” -so named by us from having startled a small drove, as we went into camp -here. One of the deer was shot, and afforded an addition to our camp -supplies. - -The next camp named was “Hazel Green,” from the number of hazel bushes -growing near a beautiful little meadow. - -Our next move was to “Crane Flat.” This name was suggested by the -shrill and startling cry of some sand-hill cranes we surprised as they -were resting on this elevated table. Going from this camp, we came to -what I finally called “Tamarack Flat,” although the appealing looks of -the grizzlies we met on their way through this pass to the Tuolumne, -caused me to hesitate before deciding upon the final baptism; the -Grizzlies did not stay to urge any claim, and being _affectionately_ -drawn to the trees, we named the camp “Tamarack Flat.” From this flat -I blazed out two trails, the lower one for early, the upper for later -use; as from this point the snow remains upon the upper trail until -quite late; and although much nearer, the snow renders it difficult -to travel in the early part of the season. From “Tamarack Flat” to -the edge of the valley is but little more than three miles. The whole -distance from Coultersville being 41½ miles as stated by Prof. Whitney. - -With but little fatigue to one accustomed to the saddle, the trip -_down_ to Coultersville or to Mariposa was made in a day. - -The wagon roads now opened, are calculated to avoid the deep snow that -delays the use of higher trails, or roads, until later in the season; -but one traveling by these routes, loses some of the grandest views to -be had of the High Sierras and western ranges of hills and mountains; -on the old Coultersville Trail, or by way of the old Mariposa Trail. -In winter or early spring, in order to avoid the snow, visitors are -compelled to take the route of the lowest altitude. The route by Hite’s -cove is called but thirty-two miles from Mariposa to the valley; while -that by Clark’s, on the South Fork, has been usually rated at about -forty-two miles. Where the time can be spared, I would suggest that -what is called “the round trip” be made; that is, go by one route and -return by another; and a “_Grand Round_” trip will include a visit to -the “High Sierra:” going by one _divide_ and returning by another. - -As to guides and accommodating hosts, there will always be found a -sufficient number to meet the increasing wants of the public, and the -enterprise of these gentlemen will suggest a ready means of becoming -acquainted with their visitors. Soon, no doubt, a railroad will be laid -into the valley, and when the “_iron horse_” shall have ridden over -all present obstacles, a new starting point for summer tourists will -be built up in the Yosemite; that the robust lovers of nature may view -the divine creations that will have been lost to view in a Pullman. -The exercise incident to a summer _lounge_ in the “High Sierras,” will -restore one’s vigor, and present new views to the eyes of the curious; -while those with less time or strength at their disposal, will content -themselves with the beauties and pleasures of the valley. - -The passes and peaks named in Prof. Whitney’s guide-book are only the -more prominent ones; for turn the eyes along the course of the Sierra -Nevada in a northerly or southerly direction at the head of Tuolumne, -Merced, San Joaquin, King’s, Kah-we-ah or Kern rivers, and almost -countless peaks will be seen, little inferior in altitude to those -noted in his table. - -The highest of these peaks, Mount Whitney, is, according to Prof. -Whitney, at least 200 feet higher than any measured in the Rocky -Mountains by the topographers of the Hayden survey. A writer in the -Virginia (Nevada) _Enterprise_ says: “Whitney stands a lordly creation -amid a rugged and grand company of companion peaks, for his nearest -neighbor, Mount Tyndall, rises 14,386 feet, and Mount Kah-we-ah, but a -few miles off, is 14,000 feet.” Whitney affords “the widest horizon in -America; a dome of blue, immeasurable, vast sweeps of desert lowlands, -range on range of mighty mountains, grand and eloquent; grace, -strength, expansion, depth, breadth, height, all blended in one grand -and awful picture. And as the eye takes in these features, a sense of -soaring fills the mind, and one seems a part of the very heavens whose -lofty places he pierces. The breadth and compass of the world grows -upon the mind as the mighty distances flow in upon the view like waves -of the sea.... The best that can be said or written but suggests; the -eye alone can lead the mind up to a true conception of so mighty and -marvelous a group of wonders.” - -It is true that one standing upon the dividing ridges of the Rio -Grande, Arkansas, Colorado or Platte, is charmed by the views presented -of far reaching plains and noble mountains, but it is doubtful if -any one view can be found in North America so grand and thrillingly -sublime as may be seen in the Sierra Nevadas. The scenery of the Yellow -Stone and of the Colorado canyon have characteristic wonders that are -_sui generis_; but those localities are not desirable for continuous -occupation. - - - - -CHAPTER XX. - -Golden Theories and Glaciers. - - -The many inquiries that the author has received concerning his views -upon the gold deposits of California, has induced him to add this -chapter to his work. - -It has been said by an earnest and astute observer, that “The cooled -earth permits us no longer to comprehend the phenomena of the primitive -creation, because the fire which pervaded it is extinguished,” and -again that “There is no great foundation (of truth), which does not -repose upon a legend.” There has been a tradition among the California -Indians, that the Golden Gate was opened by an earthquake, and that -the waters that once covered the great plain of the Sacramento and San -Joaquin basins were thus emptied into the ocean. This legendary geology -of the Indians is about as good and instructive as some that has been -taught by professors of the science, and as scarcely any two professors -of geology agree in their theories of the origin and distribution -of the gold in California, I have thought it probable that a few -_unscientific_ views upon the subject will interest my readers. - -The origin of the gold found in California seems to me to have been -clearly volcanic. The varying conditions under which it is found may -be accounted for by the varying heat and force of the upheaval, the -different qualities of the matrix or quartz that carried the gold -and filled the fissures of the veins or lodes, the influence that -resistance of the inclosing walls may have exerted when it was slight -or very great, and finally the disintegrating influences of air, water, -frost and attrition of the glaciers, and the deposition in water. - -The theories of aqueous deposit (in the lodes) and of electrical -action, do not satisfy my understanding, and I go back in thought to -the ten years of observation and practical experience in the gold -mines, and to the problems that were then but partially solved. Looking -at California as it is to-day, it will be conceded that its territory -has been subjected to distinct geological periods, and those periods -greatly varying in their force in different parts of the State. Within -the principal gold-bearing region of California, and especially along -the line of or near the Carson vein or lode, coarse gold has been -found, and in such large masses, free of quartz, as to force the -conviction upon the mind that the gold so found had been thrown out -_through_ and _beyond_ its matrix into a bed of volcanic ashes, very -nearly assuming the appearance that lead might assume when melted -and thrown in bulk upon an ash heap. Where the resistance was great, -as when thrown through wall rocks of gneiss, or green stone, the -liquefaction of the quartz seems to have been more complete, and the -specific gravity of the gold being so much greater than that of the -quartz, its momentum, when in large quantities, carried it out beyond -its matrix, leaving the more diffused particles to be held suspended in -the fast cooling quartz, or to settle into “pockets,” or small fissures. - -Prof. Le Conte says: “The invariable association of metaliferous veins -with metamorphism demonstrates the agency of heat.” Experiments of -Daubre and others prove that water at 750° Fahr. reduces to a pasty -condition nearly all rocks. Deposits of silica in a gelatinous form, -that hardens on cooling, may be seen at some of the geysers of the -Yellowstone; the heat, no doubt, being at a great depth. Quartz, like -glass and lava, cools rapidly _externally_ when exposed to air, or -a cool surface, and would very readily hold suspended any substance -_volatilized_, or crudely mixed into its substance. Its difficult -_secondary_ fusion is no obstacle to a belief in the capacity of heat -under great pressure, to account for the phenomena that may be observed -in the gold mines. Ashes derived from lavas have been found rich in -crystalline substances. Crystals and microliths, and pyrites in cubes -are, no doubt, of volcanic origin. The eruptions of moderate character -seem to be the result of igneous fusion, while those of an explosive -type are probably aquæ-igneous. - -It is altogether probable from experiments tried by Stanislas Muenier -and others, that the sudden removal of pressure is a sufficient cause -of superheated water and mineral substances flashing into steam and -lava. The geysers are evidently formed by varying temperature and -interruption of flow by removal of pressure. Mr. Fanques, in an article -in the _Popular Science Monthly_ for August, 1880, says: “Discovery of -microliths enclosed in volcanic rocks is a proof of immediate formation -of crystals.” - -The phenomena attending the recent eruptions in Java demonstrate the -incredible force and chemical effects of superheated steam. Modern -researches and experiments in mechanical and chemical forces have -greatly modified the views once entertained by geologists, and I think -that it will now be conceded that repeated volcanic disturbances, -taken in connection with the action of glaciers, will account for -most, if not all, the phenomena discoverable in the gold fields and -mountains of California. As a rule, gold-bearing veins in clay or -talcose slates have the gold more evenly diffused than those found in -the harder rocks, where pockets of crystals, pyrites and gold will -most likely be found. If gold is found in seams or masses it will be -very free from impurities, and the quartz itself will be most likely -white and vitreous. When gold is found in or near to a lode that has -been decomposed, it will be found porous and ragged, but if it has -been deposited some distance from its source it will be more or less -rounded and swedged by contact with the stones and gravel that were -carried with it by the stream of water or ice that conveyed it to its -placer. In the beds of the ancient and more modern rivers the gold -is much more worn than that found in the ravines or gulches, and the -coarser gold will be found at the bottom, the scale gold in the gravel -above, and the fine or flour gold in the mixture of clay, gravel and -sand nearer the surface. The scale gold, no doubt, has been beaten by -repeated blows of stones brought in contact with it while moving in the -bed of the stream, and the flour gold is that reduced by the continual -attrition of the moving mass upon the gold. - -Prof. Le Conte says: “There are in many parts of California two systems -of river beds--an old and a new.... The old, or dead, river system runs -across the present drainage system in a direction far more southerly; -this is especially true of northern members of the system. Farther -south the two systems are more nearly parallel, showing less movement -in that region. These old river beds are filled with drift gravel, and -often covered with lava.” The lava referred to is relatively of modern -origin, and the molten streams have in many instances covered the -ancient streams, and in others cut them in twain. The “Blue Lead” is a -very old river bed that has been the principal source of supply of the -placer gold of the northern mines, and it must have existed as a river -long anterior to the more modern upheavals that disturbed its course -by forming mountain torrents to rend its barriers and cut across its -channel. That channel crosses some of the present tributaries of the -Sacramento and San Joaquin and contains fossil remains of trees, plants -and fruits not now indigenous to California. - -The well rounded boulders and pebbles found in the beds of these -ancient rivers render it probable that they were of considerable -length, and that they may have been the channels of very ancient -glaciers. It is also probable that the region covered by glaciers -at different epochs is much more extensive than has been generally -supposed. To me it appears probable, that during some of the eras of -formation, they may have stretched across the entire continent. I have -not space to give in detail the evidences of glacial action, but will -simply state that _remains_ of glaciers may be seen by an observing -eye at intervals from the Atlantic to the Pacific; in Minnesota and -in the Rocky Mountains, they are especially abundant. Prof. Le Conte -says: “The region now occupied by the Sierra range was a marginal sea -bottom, receiving abundant sediments from a continent to the east. -At the end of the Jurassic, this line of enormously thick off-shore -deposits yielded to horizontal thrust, was crushed together and swollen -up into the Sierra range. All the ridges, peaks and canyons, all that -constitutes the grand scenery of these mountains are the result of an -almost inconceivable subsequent erosion.” - -I have no doubt of the truth of this theory of formation as it relates -to the Sierra Nevada ranges as they exist to-day, for the intrusion -of the granite into the slate formations suggests a force far greater -than can be ascribed to volcanic action alone. The _previous_ condition -of the “continental mass” can not be so well imagined; yet reasoning -from what we know of the present condition of the Sierras we may with -propriety assume that great changes had occurred in the territory -embracing the Sierras Nevada long prior to their upheaval. The changes -that have occurred since are too abundant and enduring to require more -than a reference to the localities. The “glacier pavements” of the -Sierras are so conspicuous that, as Mr. John Muir says: “Even dogs and -horses gaze wonderingly at the strange brightness of the ground, and -smell it, and place their feet cautiously upon it, as if afraid of -falling or sinking.” These glacier-smoothed rocks “are simply flat or -gently undulating areas of solid granite which present the unchanged -surface upon which the ancient glaciers flowed, and are found in the -most perfect condition in the sub-alpine region, at an elevation of -from 8,000 to 9,000 feet. Some are miles in extent, only interrupted -by spots that have given way to the weather, while the best preserved -portions are bright and stainless as the sky, reflecting the sunbeams -like glass, and shining as if polished every day, notwithstanding they -have been exposed to corroding rains, dew, frost and snow for thousands -of years.” - -This statement of Mr. Muir will especially apply to the “glistening -rocks” at the sources of the Merced and Tuolumne rivers, in view on -this trail through the Mono Pass. The evidences of past glacial action -in polishing the domes, mountains and valleys _above_ the Yosemite -valley, are too undeniable for controversy, but how much of the -Yosemite itself may have been produced by glacial action will probably -always remain a theme for discussion among geologists. - -Prof. Samuel Kneeland, the well known author of “Wonders of the -Yosemite,” in a letter to me upon the subject, says: “I think there -can be no doubt that the valley was filled, and 1,000 feet above, by -ice--that while the _mass above_, moved, that in the valley, conforming -to its configuration, was comparatively stationary, lasting much -longer than the first, gradually melting to a lake, now represented by -the Merced river. - -“I agree with Prof. Whitney that the valley was the result of a -subsidence, long anterior to the glacial epoch, and that the valley -itself, except upon its edges and upper sides, has not been materially -modified by the glacier movement.” Prof. J. D. Whitney, in his -geological report says: “The Yosemite valley is a unique and wonderful -locality; it is an exceptional creation; ... cliffs absolutely -vertical, like the upper portions of the Half Dome and El Capitan, and -of such immense height as these, are, so far as we know, to be seen -nowhere else.... How has this unique valley been formed, and what are -the geological causes which have produced its wonderful cliffs, and all -the other features which combine to make this locality so remarkable? -These questions we will endeavor to answer, as well as our ability -to pry into what went on in the deep-seated regions of the earth in -former geological ages will permit.” Mr. Whitney explicitly states his -belief that most of the great canyons and valleys have resulted from -aqueous denudation and erosion and cites the cutting through the lava -of Table Mountain at Abbey’s Ferry on the Stanislaus river as proof, -and, continuing, to the exception, says: “It is sufficient to look for -a moment at the vertical faces of El Capitan and the Bridal Veil Rock -turned down the valley, or away from the direction in which the eroding -forces must have acted, to be able to say that aqueous erosion could -not have been the agent employed to do any such work.... Much less can -it be supposed that the peculiar form of the Yosemite is due to the -erosive action of ice.... Besides, there is no reason to suppose, or -at least no proof, that glaciers have ever occupied the valley, or any -portion of it.... So that this theory, based on entire ignorance of the -whole subject, may be dropped without wasting any more time upon it. - -“The theory of erosion not being admissible to account for the -formation of the Yosemite valley, we have to fall back on some one -of those movements of the earth’s crust to which the primal forms -of mountain valleys are due. The forces which have acted to produce -valleys are complex in their nature, and it is not easy to classify -the forms, which have resulted from them, in a satisfactory manner.” -After describing the generally received theories of mountain and valley -formations, Mr. Whitney says: “We conceive that, during the process -of upheaval of the Sierra, or possibly at some time after that had -taken place, there was at the Yosemite a subsidence of a limited area, -marked by lines of ‘fault’ or fissure crossing each other somewhat -nearly at right angles. In other and more simple language, the bottom -of the valley sank down to an unknown depth, owing to its support being -withdrawn from underneath, during some of those convulsive movements -which must have attended the upheaval of so extensive and elevated a -chain, no matter how slow we may imagine the process to have been. -Subsidence over extensive areas of portions of the earth’s crust is not -at all a new idea in geology, and there is nothing in this peculiar -application of it which need excite surprise. It is the great amount -of vertical displacement for the small area implicated which makes -this a peculiar case; but it would not be easy to give any good reason -why such an exceptionable result should not be brought about amid the -complicated play of forces which the elevation of a great mountain -chain must set in motion. By the adoption of the subsidence theory for -the formation of the Yosemite, we are able to get over one difficulty -which appears insurmountable to any other. This is the very small -amount of debris at the base of the cliffs, and, even at a few points, -its entire absence.” In the space allotted to this chapter, I am able -only to quote a few passages from Prof. Whitney, but refer the curious -to his recent work, “Climatic Changes of Later Geological Times.” - -In contrast to the conclusions arrived at by Prof. Whitney, I extract -from Prof. Le Conte’s Elements of Geology, pages 526 and 527, the -following: “1st. During the epoch spoken of (the glacial) a great -glacier, receiving its tributaries from Mount Hoffman, Cathedral Peaks, -Mount Lyell and Mount Clark groups, filled Yosemite valley, and passed -down Merced canyon. The evidences are clear everywhere, but especially -in the upper valleys, where the ice action lingered longest. 2nd. -At the same time tributaries from Mount Dana, Mono Pass, and Mount -Lyell met at the Tuolumne meadows to form an immense glacier which, -overflowing its bounds a little below Soda springs, sent a branch down -the Ten-ie-ya canyon to join the Yosemite glacier, while the main -current flowed down the Tuolumne canyon and through the Hetch-Hetchy -valley. Knobs of granite 500 to 800 feet high, standing in its pathway, -were enveloped and swept over, and are now left round and polished -and scored in the most perfect manner. This glacier was at least 40 -miles long and 1,000 feet thick, for its stranded lateral-moraines may -be traced so high along the slopes of the bounding mountains.” In an -article by John Muir, published in the New York _Tribune_, and kindly -furnished me by Prof. Kneeland, will be seen views differing from those -of Prof. Whitney, but Mr. Muir has spent long years of study upon the -glacial summits of the Sierras, and if an enthusiast, is certainly a -close student of nature. The paper was written to his friend Prof. -Kunkle, of Boston, who had views similar to his own. Mr. Muir says: -“I have been over my glacial territory, and am surprised to find it -so small and fragmentary. The work of ancient ice which you and I -explored, and which we were going to christen ‘Glacial System of the -Merced’ is only a few tiny topmost branches of one tree, in a vast -glacial forest. - -“All of the magnificent mountain truths that we read together last -Autumn are only beginning sentences in the grand Sierra Nevada volume. -The Merced ice basin was bounded by the summits of the main range and -by the spurs which once reached to the summits, viz.: the Hoffman -and Obelisk ranges. In this basin not one island existed; all of its -highest peaks were washed and overflowed by the ice--Starr King, South -Dome and all. Vast ice currents broke over into the Merced basin, and -most of the Tuolumne ice had to cross the great Tuolumne canyon. - -“It is only the vastness of the glacial pathways of this region that -prevents their being seen and comprehended at once. A scholar might -be puzzled with the English alphabet if it was written large enough, -and, if each letter was made up of many smaller ones. The beds of those -vast ice rivers are veiled with forests and a network of tiny water -channels. You will see by the above sketch that Yosemite was completely -overwhelmed with glaciers, and they did not come squeezing, groping -down to the main valley by the narrow, angular, tortuous canyons of -the Ten-ie-ya, Nevada or South canyons, but they flowed grandly and -directly above all of its highest domes, like a steady wind, while -their lower currents went mazing and swedging down in the crooking and -dome-blocked channels of canyons. - -“Glaciers have made every mountain form of this whole region; even the -summit mountains are only fragments of their pre-glacial selves. - -“Every summit wherein are laid the wombs of glaciers is steeper on -its north than its south side, because of the depth and duration -of sheltered glaciers, above those exposed to the sun, and this -steepness between the north and south sides of summits is greater in -the lower summits, as those of the Obelisk group. This tells us a -word of glacial climate. Such mountains as Starr Ring, Cloud’s Rest, -and Cathedral Peak do not come under this general law because their -contours were determined by the ice which flowed about and above them, -but even among these inter-basin heights we frequently find marked -difference of steepness between their north and south sides, because -many of the higher of these mountains and crests extending east and -west, continued to shelter and nourish fragmentary glacierets long -after the death of the main trunk to which they belonged. - -“In ascending any of the principal streams of this region, lakes in -all stages of decay are found in great abundance, gradually becoming -younger until we reach the almost countless gems of the summits -with basins bright as their crystal waters. Upon the Nevada and its -branches, there are not fewer than a hundred of these lakes, from a -mile to a hundred yards in diameter, with countless glistening pondlets -about the size of moons. Both the Yosemite and the Hetch-Hetchy valleys -are lake basins filled with sand and the matter of morains easily and -rapidly supplied by their swift descending rivers from upper morains. -The mountains above Yosemite have scarce been touched by any other -denudation but that of ice. Perhaps all of the post glacial denudation -of every kind would not average an inch in depth for the whole region. - -“I am surprised to find that water has had so little to do with the -mountain structure of this region. None of the upper Merced streams -give record of floods greater than those of to-day. The small water -channel, with perpendicular walls, is about two feet in depth a few -miles above the Little Yosemite. The Nevada here, even in flood, never -was more than four or five feet in depth. Glacial striæ and glacial -drift, undisturbed on banks of streams but little above the present -line of high water mark, is sufficient proof.” - -The views entertained by Mr. Muir are, for the most part, in consonance -with my own. That the valley was originally formed as supposed by -Prof. Whitney I do not doubt, but to suppose that the vast bodies -of ice, stated by Mr. Whitney to have existed at the sources of -the Merced river, could have halted in their glacial flow down the -steep declivities of its canyons, seems as absurd as to suppose one -entertaining opposite views “ignorant of the whole subject.” As a -matter susceptible of eternal proof, I will state that in the canyon -below the Yosemite there are existing to-day, large, well rounded -bowlders that I think a geologist would say had been brought from above -the valley; and if so, water alone could scarcely have brought them -over the sunken bed of the valley, or if filled to its present level -of about thirty-five feet descent to the mile, the laws that govern -aqueous deposits would have left those huge masses of rock far above -their present location in the canyon. Some of the bowlders referred -to will weigh twenty tons or more, and, in connection with flat or -partially rounded rocks fallen, probably, from the adjacent cliff, form -waterfalls in the middle of the canyon, of from fifty to one hundred -feet of perpendicular height. The fall through the canyon averages over -two hundred feet to the mile. Well rounded bowlders of granite and -other hard stones may be seen for long distances below the Yosemite, -on hillsides and flats far above the present bed of the river, and, in -some instances, deposited with those bowlders, have been found well -rounded and swedged masses of gold. The experiments and observations -of Agassiz, Forbes and others, render it probable that the valley of -the Yosemite was filled with ice, but that the upper surface moved more -rapidly, carrying down most of the material brought from mountains -above the valley. The observations of Prof. Tyndall render it almost -certain that a glacier does not move as a rigid mass or on its bed, but -as a plastic substance, as asphalt for instance. - -Partial liquefaction by pressure would enable a glacier in the Yosemite -to conform to the inequalities of its configuration, and regelation -would perhaps retard its flow sufficiently to enable the more rapid -moving surface and center of the glacier to carry its burden on from -above without marking the lower portion of the inclosing walls, as -for instance, may be seen at Glacier Point. It has been suggested -that “the immense weight of ice that once filled the Yosemite had -an important part in the formation of it.” This idea is untenable, -because the valley must have already been formed, in order for space to -have existed for “the immense weight of ice;” and unless the earth’s -crust under the valley was previously broken as suggested in the able -theory of Prof. Whitney, no possible weight of any kind could exert a -depressing influence upon the surface. - -If it were possible, for the reconciliation of geologists, to believe -that the subsidence in the valley occurred at about the close of -the glacial flow, thereby changing the appearance of the inclosing -walls, yet still leaving material to fill the chasm, a great part of -the mystery that will always remain as one of the “Wonders of the -Yosemite,” would then disappear. As it is, we are compelled to believe, -not in miracles, but that the glacier that flowed over the Yosemite was -so great in depth as to leave, like some deep sea or ocean, its bottom -undisturbed by the tumultuous aerial strife upon its surface. - -Now, those glacial heights have, at times, a solitude unutterly -profound! Not a bird or beast to break the stillness, nor disturb the -solemn charm. Nor does the Indian, even, loiter on his way, but hastens -on down to his mountain meadows or wooded valleys. There, if anywhere, -the poet’s idea can be realized, that: - - “Silence is the heart of all things; sound the fluttering of its - pulse, - Which the fever and the spasm of the universe convulse. - Every sound that breaks the silence only makes it more profound, - Like a crash of deafening thunder in the sweet, blue stillness - drowned - Let thy soul walk softly in thee, as a saint in heaven unshod, - For to be alone with silence, is to be alone with God.” - -[Illustration: BIG TREE - -(Height, 325 feet; circumference, 100 feet.)] - - - - -CHAPTER XXI. - -Big Trees of California or Sequoia Gigantea--Their Discovery and -Classification. - - -In speaking of the discovery of the “_Big Trees_” of Calavaras, Mr. -Hutchings, in his “Scenes of Wonder and Curiosity,” says that: “In -the spring of 1852 Mr. A. T. Doud, a hunter, was employed by the -Union Water Company of Murphy’s camp, Calavaras county, to supply the -workmen with fresh meat from the large quantity of game running wild -on the upper portion of their works. Having wounded a bear, and while -industriously following in pursuit, he suddenly came upon one of those -immense trees that have since become so justly celebrated throughout -the civilized world. - -“So incredulous were Doud’s employers and companions, when told of his -discovery, that a ruse had to be resorted to, to get men to go and view -the trees.” - -Big trees in Mariposa county, were _first_ discovered by Maj. Burney, -of North Carolina, first sheriff of Mariposa county (after its -organization), John Macauly of Defiance, Ohio, and two others, whose -names I have now forgotten. The discovery was made in the latter part -of October, 1849, while in pursuit of some animals stolen by the -Indians. - -The trees seen and described by Major Burney and his party, were only -a few scattering ones on the Fresno and South Fork divide. The major -spoke of the trees as a new variety of cedar, and when he gave the -measurements that he claimed the party had made with their picket-ropes -tied together, his auditors thought he was endeavoring to match some -“big yarns” told around our camp fire at the mouth of the Merced river. -Afterwards, while sheriff, the Major indicated the locality and size of -the trees, in reply to some one’s description of the big yellow pine -that lay prostrate on what became the Yosemite trail, and when rallied -a little for his extravagance of statement, declared that though true, -he should not speak of the big trees again, for it was unpleasant to be -considered an habitual _joker_, or something worse. - -I asked the major, seriously, about the trees he had described, and he -as seriously replied that he measured the trees as stated, but did not -regard them as very remarkable, for he had seen accounts of even taller -ones, if not larger, that were growing in Oregon.[20] In referring to -these large trees, they were spoken of as being on the ridge known to -us afterwards as the Black Ridge. The big trees of the Kah-we-ah and -Tu-le river regions, were first noticed by a party of miners returning -from the “_White River_” excitement of 1854, but as these men were -uncultured, and the Calavaras grove was already known, no notice -was taken by “_The Press_” of the reports of these miners, who were -regarded by their friends as entirely truthful. - -It has been thought strange that no member of the “Mariposa battalion” -should have discovered any of the big trees, but they did not. - -Among forests of such very large pines, cedar and fir trees, as grow -adjacent to and among the sequoia, an unusually large tree would not -probably have attracted much attention. Had a grove of them, however, -been discovered, the fact would have been spoken of in the battalion. -As the species was not known to any of us at the time, even had any -been seen, and even the pendant character of their branches noticed, -doubtless they would have been classed and spoken of as “_cedar_.” I do -not believe, however, that any of the battalion ever _noticed_ these -trees, for the reason that strict orders were given against straggling, -and our explorations were, for the most part, in the mountains _above_ -the line of growth of the sequoia. While hunting for game, during our -first expeditions, the depth of snow forced the hunt below. - -A few of the Mariposa big trees were first brought into notice by the -discoveries of Mr. Hogg in the summer of 1855. The year previous, Mr. -Hogg was in the employ of Reynolds, Caruthers and myself, and proving -an able assistant and expert hunter, he was employed by our successors, -the “South Fork Ditch Company,” to supply them with game. During one of -his hunting expeditions, Mr. Hogg discovered some sequoia on a branch -of “Big Creek,” and relating his discoveries to Mr. Galen Clark, Mr. -Mann and others, the exact locality was indicated, and became known. -During the autumn of this year (1855), other trees were discovered -by Mr. J. E. Clayton, while exploring and testing, by barometrical -measurements, the practicability of bringing water from the branches -of the San Joaquin to increase the supply from the South Fork of -the Merced. Upon Mr. Clayton’s second visit, a few days later, I -accompanied him, and was shown his discoveries. - -About the first of June, 1856, Galen Clark and Milton Mann discovered -what has now become famous as the “Mariposa Grove.” The next season Mr. -Clark came upon two smaller groves of sequoia in the near vicinity of -the big grove. Not long after, he discovered quite a large collection -at the head of the Fresno. This grove was visited two days after -its discovery by L. A. Holmes, of the “Mariposa Gazette,” and Judge -Fitzhugh, while hunting; and afterwards by Mr. Hutchings in 1859, -accompanied by the discoverer, Mr. Clark. - -The groves of big trees on the North and South Tule rivers, said to -contain thousands, were discovered in 1867, by Mr. D’Henreuse, of -the State Geological Survey. From the foregoing statement concerning -the _Sequoia_, or Big Trees, and the well known fact of their easy -propagation and distribution over the whole civilized world, it is no -longer feared that the species is in any _immediate_ danger of becoming -extinct. - -Upon the tributaries of the Kah-we-ah river, these trees are converted -by the mills into lumber, which is sold about as cheap as pine. The -lumber is much like the famous red-wood of California, and is equally -durable, though perhaps not so easily worked. Although of the same -genus as the red-wood, the _species_ is distinct, the “Big Trees” -being known as the Sequoia Gigantea, while the California red-wood is -known as the Sequoia Sempervirens. This statement may seem unnecessary -to the botanist, but the two species are so frequently confounded in -respectable eastern periodicals, that the statement here is deemed -proper. Besides this, absurd fears have been expressed by those -uninformed of the facility with which these trees have been cultivated -in Europe and in this country, that the species will soon become -extinct.[21] Professor Whitney says: “It is astonishing how little that -is really reliable is to be found in all that has been published about -big trees. No correct statement of their distribution or dimensions -has appeared in print; and if their age has been correctly stated in -one or two scientific journals, no such information ever finds its -way into the popular descriptions of this tree, which are repeated -over and over again in contributions to newspapers and in books of -travel.... No other plant ever attracted so much attention or attained -such a celebrity within so short a period.... Seed were first sent to -Europe and to the Eastern States in 1853, and since that time immense -numbers have found their way to market. They germinate readily, and it -is probable that hundreds of thousands of the trees (millions it is -said) are growing in different parts of the world from seed planted. -They flourish with peculiar luxuriance in Great Britain, and grow with -extraordinary rapidity.... The genus were named in honor of Sequoia -or Sequoyah, a Cherokee Indian of mixed blood, better known as George -Guess, who is supposed to have been born about 1770, and who lived in -Wills Valley, in the extreme northeastern part of Alabama, among the -Cherokees. He became known to the world by his invention of an alphabet -and written language for his tribe.... - -The big tree is extremely limited in its range, even more so than its -twin brother, the red-wood. The latter is strictly a coast-range or -sea-board tree; the other, inland or exclusively limited to the Sierra. -Both trees are also peculiarly Californian. A very few of the red-wood -may be found just across the border in Oregon, but the big tree has -never been found outside of California, and probably never will be.” In -a note Prof. Whitney says: - -“There are several _fossil_ species of the _genus sequoia_.” Also, -“that the Calavaras Grove contains, as will be seen in the table on -page 125 (Whitney’s Yosemite Guide Book), four trees over 300 feet -high, the highest one measured in the Mariposa Grove being 272 feet. -The published statements of the heights of these trees are considerably -exaggerated, as will be noticed, but our measurements can be relied on -as being correct. The Keystone State has the honor of standing at the -head, with 325 feet as its elevation, and this is the tallest tree yet -measured on this continent, so far as our information goes.” - -“When we observe how regularly and gradually the trees diminish in -size from the highest down, it will be evident that the stories told -of trees having once stood in this grove over 400 feet in height, are -not entitled to credence. It is not at all likely that any one tree -should have overtopped all the others by seventy-five feet or more. The -same condition of general average elevation and absence of trees very -much taller than any of the rest in the grove will be noticed among the -trees on the Mariposa grant, where, however, there is no one as high as -300 feet.” - -The average height of the Mariposa trees is less than that of the -Calavaras Grove, while the circumference of the largest is greater. -Prof. Whitney measured the annual growths of one of the largest of the -Calavaras group that had been felled, which he made out to be only -about 1,300 years old. The Professor says: - -“The age of the big trees is not so great as that assigned by the -highest authorities to some of the English yews. Neither is its height -as great, by far, as that of an Australian species, the _eucalyptus -amygdalina_, many of which have, on the authority of Dr. Müller, the -eminent government botanist, been found to measure over 400 feet; one, -indeed, reaches the enormous elevation of 480 feet, thus overtopping -the tallest sequoia by 155 feet. - -“There are also trees which exceed the big trees in diameter, as, for -instance, the baobab (adansonia digitata), but this species is always -comparatively low, not exceeding sixty or seventy feet in height, and -much swollen at the base.” - -Mr. Whitney concludes his chapter on the sequoia by saying: - -“On the whole, it may be stated, that there is no known tree which -approaches the sequoia in grandeur; thickness and height being both -taken into consideration, unless it be the _eucalyptus_. The -largest Australian tree yet reported, is said to be eighty-one feet in -circumference at four feet from the ground. This is nearly, but not -quite, as large as some of the largest of the big trees of California.” - -[Illustration: RIDING THROUGH THE TREE TRUNK.] - -Prof. Whitney gives the measurement of the largest tree in the Mariposa -Grove as ninety-three feet seven inches, at the ground, and sixty-four -feet three inches at eleven feet above. This tree is known as the -“Grizzly Giant;” its two diameters were, at the base, as near as could -be measured, thirty and thirty-one feet. This tree has been very much -injured by fire, no allowance for which was made. It is probable that -could the tree--and others like it--have escaped the fires set by the -Indians, to facilitate the gathering of their annual supplies and the -pursuit of game, exact measurements would show a circumference of -over 100 feet. But, even as large as it is, its size does not at once -impress itself upon the understanding. - -There are nine or ten separate groves of “Big Trees,” in California, -and all lie upon the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada at an altitude -of from five to seven thousand feet above the sea. Mr. A. B. Whitehall -has given a very interesting account of these in the Chicago _Tribune_, -from which I extract such portions as will best serve to interest my -readers. - -“The wood is soft, light, elastic, straight grained, and looks like -cedar. The bark is deeply corrugated, longitudinally, and so spongy -as to be used for pin cushions. The branches seldom appear below 100 -feet from the ground, and shoot out in every direction from the trunk. -The leaves are of two kinds--those of the younger trees and the lower -branches of the larger set in pairs opposite each other on little -stems, and those growing on branches which have flowered, triangular in -shape, and lying close down to the stem. The cones are remarkable for -their diminutive size, being not much larger than a hen’s egg, while -the cones of much smaller conifers are larger than pine-apples. The -seeds are short and thin as paper.... The magnificent proportions of -the trees and the awful solitude of the forest gives an almost sublime -grandeur to this part of the Sierra. The Tuolumne grove is situated -almost due north of the Merced, and is on the Big Oak Flat trail to -the Yosemite. There are about thirty trees in the group, and they are -excellent representatives of the sequoia family. The Siamese Twins, -growing from the same root and uniting a few feet above the base, are -thirty-eight feet in diameter and 114 feet in circumference at the -base. A unique piece of road making is here seen. In the construction -of the highway for coaches and wagons to the Yosemite, the engineers -suddenly found themselves face to face with one of these monster trees, -and not choosing to build around it, they cut through it, thus forming -a tunnel, the like of which can only be found in the Mariposa grove. -The diameter of the tree being over thirty feet, there remained an -abundance of material on each side of the cut to retain the tree in a -standing position, and the hole ten feet high and twelve feet wide is -sufficiently large to allow the passage of any coach or team.” - -“In the South Park and Calaveras groves there are some remarkable -trees. One tree in the South Park grove will hold forty persons in -the hollow of its trunk; another has sheltered sixteen horses. The -four highest trees in the Calaveras grove, are the Keystone State, -325 feet high, Gen. Jackson, 319 feet, Mother of the Forest, 315 -feet, and the Daniel Webster of 307 feet high. The Husband and Wife -are a pair of trees gracefully leaning against each other, 250 feet -high, and each sixty feet in circumference. The Hermit is a solitary -specimen of great proportions; the Old Maid, a disconsolate looking -spinster, fifty-nine feet around, and the Old Bachelor, a rough, -unkempt old fellow nearly 300 feet in height. The Father of the Forest -is prostrate, hollow, limbless and without bark; yet across the roots -the distance is twenty-eight feet.... Into the tree a tourist can ride -ninety feet on horseback. One of the largest trees of the Calaveras -grove was bored down with pump augurs, and the stump smoothed off and -converted into a floor of a dancing hall. Thirty-two persons, or four -quadrille sets, have ample room to dance at one time, and yet leave -room for musicians and spectators.” - -[Illustration: THE TUNNELLED TREE.] - -I can give my readers no better idea of the solemn immensity of the -trees, than by again quoting Mr. Whitehall. He says in conclusion: -“Although it was then June, yet the eternal snows of the mountains -were everywhere around us, and, as the huge banks and drifts stretched -away off in the distance, the melting power of heat and the elements -was on every side defied. Not a weed or blade of grass relieved the -monotony of the view; not the chirping of an insect or the twittering -of a bird was heard. The solemn stillness of the night added a weird -grandeur to the scene. Now and then a breath of wind stirred the -topmost branches of the pines and cedars, and as they swayed to and fro -in the air the music was like that of Ossian, ‘pleasant but mournful -to the soul.’ There were sequoias on every side almost twice as high -as the falls of Niagara; there were pines rivaling the dome of the -capitol at Washington in grandeur; there were cedars to whose tops -the monument of Bunker Hill would not have reached. There were trees -which were in the full vigor of manhood before America itself was -discovered; there were others which were yet old before Charlemagne -was born; there were others still growing when the Savior himself -was on the earth. There were trees which had witnessed the winds and -storms of twenty centuries; there were others which would endure long -after countless generations of the future would be numbered with -the past. There were trees crooked and short and massive; there were -others straight and tall and slender. There were pines whose limbs were -as evenly proportioned as those of the Apollo Belvedere; there were -cedars whose beauty was not surpassed in their counterparts in Lebanon; -there were firs whose graceful foliage was like the fabled locks of -the gods of ancient story. It was a picture in nature which captivated -the sense at once by its grandeur and extent; and, as we drove back to -Clark’s through six miles of this forest luxuriance, with the darkness -falling about us like a black curtain from the heavens, and the mighty -canyons of the Sierra sinking away from our pathway like the openings -to another world, then it was not power, but majesty, not beauty but -sublimity, not the natural but the supernatural, which seemed above us -and before us.” - - - - -CHAPTER XXII. - -Statistics--Roads and Accommodations--Chapel and Sunday School--Big -Farms and Great Resources--A Variety of Products--Long Hoped for Results - - -Records of the number of visitors to the Yosemite down to and inclusive -of 1875, show that in 1852 Rose and Shurban were murdered by the -savages, while their companion, Tudor, though wounded, escaped. The -next year, 1853, eight men from the North Fork of the Merced, visited -the valley, returning unharmed. Owing to murders of Starkey, Sevil and -Smith, in the winter of 1853-’4, as it was believed, by the Yosemites, -no visitors entered the valley during the summer of 1854. In 1855 -Messrs. Hutchings, Ayers, Stair and Milliard, visited it without being -disturbed by the sight of any of the original proprietors, either -Indians or grizzlies. Mr. Hutchings, on his return to San Francisco, -began to draw the attention of the public to the Yosemite, through his -magazine and otherwise. Notwithstanding the ample means afforded by -his magazine, and his facilities as a writer, Mr. Hutchings found it -difficult to bring the valley into prominent and profitable notice, and -few Californians could be induced to make it a visit. A peculiarity of -those days was a doubt of the marvelous, and a fear of being “_sold_.” -Any statements of travelers or of the press, that appeared exaggerated, -were received by the public with extreme caution. Not more than -twenty-five or thirty entered during that year, though Mr. Hutchings’ -efforts were seconded by reports of other visitors. - -The following season, 1856, it was visited by ladies from Mariposa and -San Francisco, who safely enjoyed the pleasures and _inconveniences_ -of the trip; aroused and excited to the venture, no doubt, by their -traditional curiosity. The fact being published that ladies could -safely enter the valley, lessened the dread of Indians and grizzlies, -and after a few _brave reports_ had been published, this fear seemed to -die away completely. - -From this time on to 1864, a few entered every season; but during -these times California had a _wonder_ and interest in its population -and their enterprises, greater than in any of its remarkable scenery. -Everything was at high pressure, and the affairs of business and the -war for the Union were all that could excite the common interest. In -1864, there were only 147 visitors, including men, women and children. -The action of Congress this year, in setting the Yosemite and big trees -apart from the public domain as national parks, attracted attention to -them. The publicity given to the valley by this act, was world-wide, -and since 1864 the number visiting it has steadily increased. - -According to the _Mariposa Gazette_, an authentic record shows that in -the season of 1865 the number was 276, in 1866, 382, in 1867, 435, in -1868, 627, and increasing rapidly; in 1875 the number for that year -had reached about 3,000. The figures are deemed reliable, as they were -obtained from the records of toll-roads and hotels. They are believed -to be very nearly correct. - -The _Gazette_ “estimates the proportion of eastern and European in -the total number to be at least nine-tenths,” and says: “It is safe -to place the Atlantic and European visitors for the next ten years at -2,000 per annum.” - -I have no doubt the number has been greater even than was estimated, -for improved facilities for entering the valley have since been -established. Seven principal _routes_ have been opened, and a post -office, telegraph and express offices located. A large hotel has been -built by the State, the trails have been purchased and made free, and -the management is now said by travelers to be quite good. There is no -reason why still further improvements should not be made. A branch -railroad from the San Joaquin Valley could enter the Yosemite by way of -the South Fork, or by the Valley of the Merced river. Mineral ores and -valuable lumber outside and below the valley and grant, would pay the -cost of construction, and no defacement of the grand old park or its -additions would be required, nor should be allowed. - -With cars entering the valley, thousands of tourists of moderate wealth -would visit it; and then on foot, from the hotels, be able to see most -of the sublime scenery of the mountains. - -If horses or carriages should be desired, for the more distant points -of interest, they may readily be obtained in the valley at reasonable -rates. At present, the expense of travel by stage, carriage and -horseback, is considerable, and many visiting California, do not feel -able to incur the extra expense of a visit to the Yosemite. - -Visitors intending to see both the big trees and the Yosemite Valley, -should visit the trees first, as otherwise the forest monarchs will -have lost a large share of their interest and novelty. - -The hotel charges are not much higher than elsewhere in the State, and -the fare is as good as the average in cities. If extras are required, -payment will be expected as in all localities. There is more water -falling in the spring months, but the water-falls are but fractions of -the interest that attaches to the region. Yosemite is always grandly -beautiful; even in winter it has attractions for the robust, but -invalids had better visit it only after the snow has disappeared from -the lower levels, generally, from about the first of May to the middle -of June. - -From that date on to about the first of November, the valley will -be found a most delightful summer resort, with abundant fruits and -vegetables of perfect growth and richest flavor. - -All modern conveniences and many luxuries of enlightened people are now -to be found, gathered in full view of the great fall and its supporting -scenery. The hotels, telegraph, express and post offices are there, and -a Union Chapel dedicated at a grand gathering of the National Sunday -School Union, held during the summer of 1879, is regularly used for -religious services. Those who may wish to commune with Nature’s God -alone while in the Yosemite, will be in the very innermost sanctuary -of all that is Divine in material creation for the valley is a holy -Temple, and if their hearts are attuned to the harmony surrounding -them, “the testimony of the Rocks” will bring conviction to their souls. - -The unique character of Mirror Lake will leave its indelible -impressions upon the tourist’s mind, and residents of the Yosemite -will gladly inform him of the varying proper time in the morning when -its calm stillness will enable one to witness its greatest charm, the -“_Double Sunrise_.” That phenomena may be ascribed to the lake’s -sheltered closeness to the perpendicular wall of the Half Dome (nearly -5,000 feet high), and the window-like spaces between the peaks East and -South, looked through by the sun in his upward, westward flight. - -As a matter of fact, differing according to the seasons of the year, -“sunrise on the lake” may be seen in its reflections two or more times -in the same morning, and, if the visitor be at the lake when the breeze -first comes up on its daily appearance from the plains, shattering the -lake mirror into fragments, innumerable suns will appear to dazzle and -bewilder the beholder. - -The wonderful scenery and resources of California are becoming known -and appreciated. A large addition has been made to, and surrounding -the Yosemite and Big Tree Parks, which in time may become one (see -map); and another very large National Park has been established in -Tulare County, to be known as the _Sequoia_ Park, which includes most -of the Big Trees of that entire region; but it is not so generally -known in the Eastern States that there are such vast landed estates, -such princely realms of unbroken virgin soil awaiting the developments -of industry. Official reports of the California State Board of -Equalization show that there are 122 farms of 20,000 acres each and -over. Of these there are 67 averaging 70,000 acres each, and several -exceed 100,000 acres. - -These figures are published as official, and were well calculated to -make the small farmers of the east open their eyes; they will yet open -the eyes of the land owners themselves to the importance of bringing -their estates under successful and remunerative cultivation. This -will have to be done in order that these acres may be made to pay -a just taxation. Thousands of acres that are of little use to the -owners or the public--of no value to the state--can, by the judicious -introduction of water, be made to pay well for the investment. -Irrigating ditches or canals from the Merced, one on the north side -and the other on the south, a short distance above Snelling, in Merced -county, were located by the writer, and soon after completion, the -arid and dusty land was transformed into blooming gardens and fertile -vineyards. These were the first irrigating ditches of any considerable -magnitude, constructed in Mariposa or Merced counties, though -irrigation was common enough in other parts of the state. The advance -that has since been made in California agriculture is wonderful. New -methods adapted to the peculiarities of soil and climate have been -introduced, and new machinery invented and applied that cheapen the -cost of production and lessen manual labor to a surprising degree: for -instance, machinery that threshes and cleans ready for the market, over -5,000 bushels of wheat to the machine per day. Capital is still being -largely invested in railroads, and in reclaiming the Tule (Bull Rush) -lands. - -These lands are among the richest in the world. They grow cotton, -tobacco, rice and other southern staples, equal to the best of the -Southern States, with much less danger from malaria. The valleys of -the San Joaquin and Sacramento, which are simply _local_ divisions -of the same great valley, produce according to altitude, moisture -and location, all the cereals, fruits and vegetables of a temperate -clime, as well as those of semi-tropical character; even the poorest -hill-side lands grow the richest wine and raisin grapes. The yield is -so astonishing, as to appear incredible. - -The raisins grown and cured in California are said to be equal to the -best Malaga; while the oranges, lemons, olives, figs, almonds, filberts -and English walnuts, command the highest prices in the market. Peaches, -pears, grapes and honey, are already large items in her trade; and her -wheat crops now reach a bulk that is simply enormous. - -The grade of horses, cattle, swine, sheep and wool, are being brought -to a high degree of perfection; for the climate is most salubrious and -invigorating. Her gifts of nature are most bountiful and perfect. No -wonder, then, that the Californian is enthusiastic when speaking of his -sublime scenery, salubrious climate and surprising products. - -But I must no longer dwell upon my theme, nor tell of the fruitful -Fresno lands, redeemed from savage barbarity. Those scenes of beauteous -enchantment I leave to those who may remain to enjoy them. And yet-- - - El Capitan, I turn to gaze upon thy lofty brow, - With reverent yearnings to thy Maker bow. - But now farewell, Yosemite; - If thou appears not again in sight, - Thou’lt come, I know, in life’s extremity - While passing into realms of light. - - -THE END. - - - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] “Rock Chief,” a literal translation of “Tote-ack-ah-noo-la,” -rendered “El Capitan” in Spanish, from the likeness of a man’s head -upon the wall. - -[2] The Yosemites were known as the “Bear tribe.” “Ten-ie-ya” was chief. - -[3] “Scho look” is the Indian name for the “High Fall;” “Ah-wah-ne,” -the _old_ name of Valley, and “Kay o pha” (the sky), the name of -highest or snow-clad peaks. - -[4] At intervals at the Vernal a _round_ rainbow is formed, perfect as -a finger-ring. - -[5] “Glacier Fall,” in place of “Too-loo lo-we ack.” - -[6] “Sentinel Dome” was known to the discoverers as the “South Dome,” -and “Tis sa ack,” meaning cleft-rock, as the “Half Dome.” - -[7] Mr. Pratt’s retraction has finally appeared in the June number for -1891. - -[8] An Indian corruption of Bautista. - -[9] According to the Rev. S. G. Wright, of Leach Lake, Minnesota -Reservation, and “_Wain-ding_” (the source of the wind), the best -interpreters of the Chippewa perhaps now living, but few, if any, of -the Chippewa names for our lakes and rivers have been preserved in -their purity. - -[10] Captain Joe Walker, for whom “Walker’s Pass” is named, told me -that he once passed quite near the valley on one of his mountain trips; -but that his Ute and Mono guides gave such a dismal account of the -canons of both rivers, that he kept his course near to the divide until -reaching Bull Creek, he descended and went into camp, not seeing the -valley proper. - -[11] In some way unaccountable to me, this speech appears in my article -in Hutching’s work, as if delivered before the fight at “Battle -Mountain.” - -[12] I have learned through the kindness of Dr. A. Kellogg, of the -California Academy of Sciences, that this tree is now known as the -“_Torreya Californica_.” - -[13] It is claimed by all Indian “Medicine Men” that the presence of a -spirit is announced by a _cool_ breeze, and that sometimes they turn -cold and shake as with an ague. - -[14] Known as the Mexican Pheasant, though not very good to eat. - -[15] Mr. Winchester, connected with some eastern publication, -accompanied Captain Boling and myself, in the latter part of June, -1851, as far as the Tehon Pass. During the trip I gave him a full -account of the operations of the battalion, which he took notes of, and -said he should publish on arriving home. His health was very poor, and -I doubt if his manuscript was ever published. I never heard from him -afterwards. - -[16] From an elaboration of legend interpreted by Stephen M. -Cunningham, in 1857. - -[17] This cliff was climbed for the first time by Mr. George G. -Anderson, on October 12th, 1875. It has now a stair-way running over -the difficult part of the ascent. - -[18] All trails within the original grant have now been made free. - -[19] A wagon road now enters upon a lower level. - -[20] See Gen. John Bidwell’s account in Century magazine for Nov. 1890. - -[21] Most of the Big Trees of Tulare County are within the new “Sequoia -Park.” - - - - - * * * * * * - - - - -Transcriber’s note: - -List of Illustrations entry “Fire Stick, page 134" moved to correct -position; List of Illustrations entry “Riding through a Tree, Page 325” -changed to read “Riding through a Tree, Page 339” - -Obvious printer errors corrected silently. - -Some unpaired double quotation marks could not be corrected. - -Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation are as in the original. - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE*** - - -******* This file should be named 56042-0.txt or 56042-0.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/5/6/0/4/56042 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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- margin: 0em auto 0em auto; } - h2.pg { font-weight: bold; - margin: 0em auto 0em auto; - page-break-before: avoid; } - h3.pg { font-weight: bold; - margin: 0em auto 0em auto; } - h4 { text-align: center; - clear: both; } - hr.full { width: 100%; - margin-top: 3em; - margin-bottom: 0em; - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - height: 4px; - border-width: 4px 0 0 0; /* remove all borders except the top one */ - border-style: solid; - border-color: #000000; - clear: both; } - </style> -</head> -<body> -<h1 class="pg">The Project Gutenberg eBook, Discovery of the Yosemite, by Lafayette -Houghton Bunnell</h1> -<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States -and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no -restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it -under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this -eBook or online at <a -href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you are not -located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this ebook.</p> -<p>Title: Discovery of the Yosemite</p> -<p> And the Indian War of 1851, Which Led to That Event</p> -<p>Author: Lafayette Houghton Bunnell</p> -<p>Release Date: November 24, 2017 [eBook #56042]</p> -<p>Language: English</p> -<p>Character set encoding: UTF-8</p> -<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE***</p> -<p> </p> -<h4>E-text prepared by Bryan Ness, Wayne Hammond,<br /> - and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> - (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br /> - from page images generously made available by<br /> - HathiTrust Digital Library<br /> - (<a href="https://www.hathitrust.org/">https://www.hathitrust.org/</a>)</h4> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10"> - <tr> - <td valign="top"> - Note: - </td> - <td> - Images of the original pages are available through - HathiTrust Digital Library. See - <a href="https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/009571617"> - https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/009571617</a> - </td> - </tr> -</table> -<p> </p> -<hr class="full" /> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="i_portrait" src="images/i_portrait.jpg" alt="" /><br /> -<img src="images/i_sig.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>L. H. Bunnell</i> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_i">1</span></p></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h1> -DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,<br /> - -<small>AND</small><br /> -<br /> -<span class="x-large">THE INDIAN WAR OF 1851,</span><br /> - -<span class="medium">WHICH LED TO THAT EVENT.</span><br /> - -<small>BY</small><br /> - -<span class="large">LAFAYETTE HOUGHTON BUNNELL, M.D.,</span><br /> - -<span class="small table">OF THE MARIPOSA BATTALION, ONE OF THE DISCOVERERS,<br /> -LATE SURGEON THIRTY-SIXTH REGIMENT<br /> -WISCONSIN VOLUNTEERS.</span><br /> - -<span class="medium"><i>THIRD EDITION—REVISED AND CORRECTED.</i></span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="large">FLEMING H. REVELL COMPANY,</span><br /> - -<span class="table medium"> - <span class="trow"> - <span class="tcell tdc br">NEW YORK:</span> - <span class="tcell tdc">CHICAGO:</span> - </span> - - <span class="trow"> - <span class="tcell tdc br"><span class="smcap">30 Union Square: East</span>.</span> - <span class="tcell tdc"><span class="smcap">148 and 150 Madison St.</span></span> - </span> -</span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_ii">2</span></h1> - -<p class="copy"> -Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1880-1892, by<br /> -L. H. BUNNELL,<br /> -In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.<br /> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_iii">3</span></p> - -<p class="caption"> -<span class="large">DEDICATION.</span><br /> -<br /> -TO THE<br /> -<br /> -<span class="x-large">HON. CHARLES H. BERRY,</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="medium">THIS BOOK,<br /> -<br /> -IN REMEMBRANCE OF KINDLY SUGGESTIONS,<br /> -<br /> -IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED.</span><br /> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_iv">4</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></h2> - -<table class="toc3col"> -<caption>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</caption> - <tr> - <td /> - <td /> - <td class="tdr small">PAGE</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>I.</td> - <td><a href="#frontis"><span class="smcap">Maps</span></a></td> - <td><span class="tdr smcap">Frontispiece.</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>II.</td> - <td><a href="#i_portrait"><span class="smcap">Portrait</span></a></td> - <td /> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>III.</td> - <td><a href="#i_013"><span class="smcap">The Yosemite Valley</span></a></td> - <td class="tdr">13</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>IV.</td> - <td><a href="#i_054"><span class="smcap">El Capitan</span></a></td> - <td class="tdr">54</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>V.</td> - <td><a href="#i_059"><span class="smcap">Bridal Veil Fall</span></a></td> - <td class="tdr">59</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>VI.</td> - <td><a href="#i_074"><span class="smcap">Half Dome</span></a></td> - <td class="tdr">74</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>VII.</td> - <td><a href="#i_075"><span class="smcap">North Dome and Royal Arches</span></a></td> - <td class="tdr">75</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>VIII.</td> - <td><a href="#i_077"><span class="smcap">Cathedral Rocks</span></a></td> - <td class="tdr">77</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>IX.</td> - <td><a href="#i_084"><span class="smcap">Glacier Fall</span></a></td> - <td class="tdr">84</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>X.</td> - <td><a href="#i_086"><span class="smcap">Vernal Fall and Round Rainbow</span></a></td> - <td class="tdr">86</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>XI.</td> - <td><a href="#i_087"><span class="smcap">Nevada Fall</span></a></td> - <td class="tdr">87</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>XII.</td> - <td><a href="#i_129"><span class="smcap">Caches, or Acorn Storehouses</span></a></td> - <td class="tdr">129</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td /> - <td><a href="#i_134"><span class="smcap">Fire Stick</span></a></td> - <td class="tdr">134</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>XIII.</td> - <td><a href="#i_146"><span class="smcap">Three Brothers</span></a></td> - <td class="tdr">146</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>XIV.</td> - <td><a href="#i_166"><span class="smcap">Yosemite Fall</span></a></td> - <td class="tdr">166</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>XV.</td> - <td><a href="#i_205"><span class="smcap">Mirror Lake</span></a></td> - <td class="tdr">204</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>XVI.</td> - <td><a href="#i_213"><span class="smcap">Sentinel Rock</span></a></td> - <td class="tdr">213</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>XVII.</td> - <td><a href="#i_219"><span class="smcap">The Indian Belle</span></a></td> - <td class="tdr">219</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>XVIII.</td> - <td><a href="#i_236"><span class="smcap">Lake Ten-ie-ya</span></a></td> - <td class="tdr">236</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>XIX.</td> - <td><a href="#i_290"><span class="smcap">Lake Starr King</span></a></td> - <td class="tdr">290</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>XX.</td> - <td><a href="#i_333"><span class="smcap">Big Tree</span></a></td> - <td class="tdr">333</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>XXI.</td> - <td><a href="#i_339"><span class="smcap">Riding Through a Tree Trunk</span></a></td> - <td class="tdr">339</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td /> - <td><a href="#i_340"><span class="smcap">Tunneled Tree</span></a></td> - <td class="tdr">340</td> - </tr> -</table> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_v">5</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<table class="toc2col"> -<caption>CONTENTS.</caption> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Incidents leading to the Discovery of the Yosemite Valley—Major Savage - and Savages—Whiskey, Wrangling and War—Skinned Alive—A brisk - Fight—Repulse—Another Fight, and Conflagration</td> - <td class="tdr">1</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER II.</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Governor of California issues a Proclamation—Formation of the Mariposa - Battalion—The Origin and Cause of the War—New Material - Public Documents—A Discussion—Capt. Walker—The Peace Commissioners’ - Parley and the Indians’ Pow-wow—The Mysterious - Deep Valley—Forward, March!</td> - <td class="tdr">29</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>March Down the South Fork—Capture of an Indian Village—Hungry Men—An - able Surgeon—Snow Storms—Visit of Ten-ie-ya, Chief of the Yosemites—Commander’s - Dilemma—Unique Manner of Extrication—Approaching - the Valley—First View—Sensations Experienced—A Lofty - Flight Brought Down</td> - <td class="tdr">40</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Naming the Valley—Signification and Origin of the Word—Its proper Pronunciation: - Yo-sem-i-ty—Mr. Hutchings and Yo-Ham-i-te—His Restoration - of Yo-sem-i-te</td> - <td class="tdr">57</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Date of Discovery—First White Visitors—Captain Joe Walker’s Statement—Ten-ie-ya’s - Cunning—Indian Tradition—A Lying Guide—The Ancient - Squaw—Destroying Indian Stores—Sweat-houses—The Mourner’s Toilet—Sentiment - and Reality—Return to Head-quarters,</td> - <td class="tdr">70<span class="pagenum" id="Page_vi">6</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Out of Provisions—A Hurried Move—Mills where Indians take their - Grists, and Pots in which they Boil their Food—Advance Movement of - Captain Dill—A Hungry Squad—Enjoyment—Neglect of Duty—Escape - of Indians—Following their Trail—A Sorrowful Captain—A Mystery - made Clear—Duplicity of the Chow-chillas—Vow-chester’s Good-will - Offering—Return of the Fugitives—Major Savage as Agent and Interpreter</td> - <td class="tdr">92</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Campaign against the Chow-chillas—The Favorite Hunting Ground—A - Deer Hunt and a Bear <i>Chase</i>—An Accident and an Alarm—A Torch-light - Pow-wow—Indians Discovered—Captain Boling’s Speech—Crossing - of the San Joaquin—A Line of Battle, its Disappearance—Capture - of Indian Village—Jose Rey’s Funeral-pyre—Following the Trail—A - Dilemma—Sentiment and Applause—Returning to Camp—Narrow Escape - of Captain Boling</td> - <td class="tdr">105</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Camp Discussion—War or Police Clubs—Jack Regrets a Lost Opportunity—Boling’s - Soothing Syrup—A Scribe Criticises and Apologises—Indian - War Material and its Manufacture—The Fire-stick and its Sacred - Uses—Arrival at Head-quarters</td> - <td class="tdr">123</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Starvation Subdues the Chow-chillas, and the Result is Peace—Captain - Kuykendall’s Expeditions—An Attack—Rout and Pursuit—A Wise Conclusion—Freezing - out Indians—A Wild Country—A Terrific View—Yosemite - <i>versus</i> King’s River—Submission of the Indians South of the San - Joaquin—Second Expedition to Yosemite—Daring Scouts—Capture of - Indians—Naming of “Three Brothers”</td> - <td class="tdr">135</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A General Scout—An Indian Trap—Flying Artillery—A Narrow Escape—A - Tragic Scene—Fortunes of War—A Scout’s Description—Recovery - from a Sudden Leap—Surrounded by Enemies</td> - <td class="tdr">148<span class="pagenum" id="Page_vii">7</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Camp Amusements—A Lost Arrow—Escape of a Prisoner—Escape of Another—Shooting - of the Third—Indian Diplomacy—Taking His Own - Medicine—Ten-ie-ya Captured—Grief over the Death of His Son—Appetite - under Adverse Circumstances—Poetry Dispelled—Really a Dirty - Indian</td> - <td class="tdr">160</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Bears and Other Game—Sickness of Captain Boling—Convalescence and - Determination—A Guess at Heights—A Tired Doctor and a Used-up - Captain—Surprising an Indian—Know-nothingness, or Native Americanism—A - Clue and Discovery—A Short-cut to Camp, but an Unpopular - Route</td> - <td class="tdr">175</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII.</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Indian Names—Difficulty of their Interpretation—Circumstances Suggesting - Names of Vernal, Nevada and Bridal Veil Falls—Mr. Richardson’s - Descriptions of the Falls and Round Rainbow—Py-we-ack Misplaced, - and “<i>Illiluette</i>” an Absurdity—An English Name Suggested for - Too-lool-lo-we-ack, Pohono and Tote-ack-ah-nü-la—Indian Superstitions - and Spiritual Views—A Free National Park Desirable—Off on the - Trail</td> - <td class="tdr">198</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV.</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Mountain Storm—Delay of Supplies—Clams and Ipecac—Arrival of - Train—A Cute Indian—Indian Sagacity—A Dangerous Weapon—Capture - of Indian Village—An Eloquent Chief—Woman’s Rights <i>versus</i> - Squaw’s Wrongs—A Disturbed Family—A Magnificent Sunrise—On a - Slippery Slope—Sentiment and Poetry—Arrival at the Fresno</td> - <td class="tdr">222</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV.</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Flora of the Region of the Yosemite—General Description of the Valley - and its Principal Points of Interest, with their Heights</td> - <td class="tdr">240<span class="pagenum" id="Page_viii">8</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI.</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Trip to Los Angeles—Interview with Colonel McKee—A Night at - Colonel Fremont’s Camp—Management of Cattle by the Colonel’s - Herdsmen—Back to Los Angeles—Specimen Bricks of the Angel - City—An Addition to our Party—Mules <i>versus</i> Bears—Don Vincente—A - Silver Mine—Mosquitos—A Dry Bog—Return to Fresno—Muster - out of Battalion—A Proposition</td> - <td class="tdr">257</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII.</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Captain Boling elected Sheriff—Appointment of Indian Agents—Ten-ie-ya - allowed to Return to Yosemite—Murder of Visitors—Lieut. - Moore’s Expedition and Punishment of Murderers—Gold Discoveries - on Eastern Slope of Sierras—Report of Expedition, and First <i>Published</i> - Notice of Yosemite—Squatter Sovereignty—Assault upon - King’s River Reservation—The supposed Leader, Harvey, Denounced - by Major Savage—A Rencounter, and Death of Savage—Harvey - Liberated by a Friendly Justice—An Astute Superintendent—A Mass - Meeting—A Rival Aspirant—Indians and Indian Policy</td> - <td class="tdr">272</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII.</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Murder of Starkey—Death of Ten-ie-ya and Extinction of his Band—A - few Surviving Murderers—An Attempt at Reformation—A Failure - and Loss of a Mule—Murders of Robert D. Sevil and Robert Smith—Alarm - of the People—A False Alarm</td> - <td class="tdr">291</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX.</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Engineering and History—Speculation and Discouragement—A New - Deal—Wall Street—A Primitive Bridge—First Woman in the Yosemite—Lady - Visitors from Mariposa and Lady Teachers from San - Francisco—Measurements of Heights—First Houses and their Occupants—A - Gay Party and a Glorious Feast</td> - <td class="tdr">301</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">CHAPTER XX.</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Golden Theories and Glaciers</td> - <td class="tdr">319</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI">CHAPTER XXI.</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Big Trees of California or Sequoia Gigantea—Their Discovery and - Classification</td> - <td class="tdr">333</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII">CHAPTER XXII.</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Statistics—Roads and Accommodations—Chapel and Sunday School—Big - Farms and Great Resources—A Variety of Products—Long - Hoped for Results</td> - <td class="tdr">343</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class="figcenter"> - -<p class="caption">By Courtesy of the Publishers.</p> - -<img id="frontis" src="images/frontis.png" alt="" /> - -<p class="caption">MAP OF -THE YO SEMITE -NATIONAL PARK</p> - -<p class="caption">SITUATED IN -TUOLUMNE, -MARIPOSA, FRESNO, -AND MONO -COUNTIES, -STATE OF CALIFORNIA.</p> - -<p class="small"><i>COMPRISING 42 TOWNSHIPS, COVERING -AN AREA OF ABOUT 1,500 SQUARE -MILES, BEING APPROXIMATELY -960,000 ACRES OF LAND; LESS -36,111 ACRES CONTAINED -IN THE “YO SEMITE VALLEY -GRANT.” ABOUT 700,000 -ACRES OF THE “YO SEMITE -NATIONAL PARK” IS MOUNTAINOUS, -WELL WATERED, -AND HEAVILY TIMBERED -WITH PINE, FIR, SPRUCE, -HEMLOCK, TAMARACK, OAK, -CEDAR, MADROÑA, LAUREL, -SEQUOIAS, AND MOUNTAIN -MAHOGANY. 260,000 ACRES -COMPOSED OF MOUNTAIN -VALLEYS, MEADOWS, LAKES, -STREAMS, E.T.C.</i></p> - -<p class="copy"><i>Copyrighted 1892</i> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_ix">9</span></p></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="INTRODUCTION">INTRODUCTION.</h2> - -<p>The book here presented is the result of an attempt to correct existing -errors relative to the Yosemite Valley. It was originally designed to -compress the matter in this volume within the limits of a magazine article, -but this was soon found to be impracticable; and, at the suggestion of -Gen. C. H. Berry, of Winona, Minnesota, it was decided to “write a -book.”</p> - -<p>This, too, proved more difficult than at first appeared.</p> - -<p>Born in Rochester, New York, in 1824, and carried to Western wilds -in 1833, the writer’s opportunities for culture were limited; and in this, -his first attempt at authorship, he has found that the experiences of -frontier life are not the best preparations for literary effort. Beside this, -he had mainly to rely upon his own resources, for nothing could be obtained -in the archives of California that could aid him. It was not deemed -just that California should forget the deeds of men who had subdued her -savages, and discovered her most sublime scenery. Having been a member -of the “Mariposa Battalion,” and with it when the Yosemite was -discovered, having suggested its name, and named many of the principal -objects of interest in and near the valley, it seemed a duty that the -writer owed his comrades and himself, to give the full history of these -events. Many of the facts incident thereto have already been given to -the public by the author at various times since 1851, but these have been -so mutilated or blended with fiction, that a renewed and full statement -of facts concerning that remarkable locality seems desirable. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_x">10</span></p> - -<p>While engaged upon this work, the writer was aided by the scientific -researches of Prof. J. D. Whitney, and by the “acute and helpful criticism” -of Doctor James M. Cole of Winona, Minnesota.</p> - -<p>Since the publication of the second edition of this book, and an article -from the author’s pen in the <i>Century</i> Magazine for September, 1890, -numerous letters of approval from old comrades have been received, -and a few dates obtained from old official correspondence that will now -be introduced.</p> - -<p>In addition to what may properly belong to this history, there have -been introduced a few remarks concerning the habits and character of the -Indians. This subject is not <i>entirely new</i>, but the opinions expressed are -the results of many years acquaintance with various tribes, and may be -useful.</p> - -<p>The incidental remarks about game will probably interest some. To -the author, the study of nature in all its aspects has been interesting.</p> - -<p>The author’s views regarding the gold deposits and glaciers of the -Sierras are given simply as suggestions.</p> - -<p>His especial efforts have been directed to the placing on record events -connected with the <i>discovery</i> of the Yosemite, for description of its -scenery he feels to be impossible. In reverent acknowledgment of this, -there are submitted as a prologue, some lines written while contemplating -the grandeur of his subject.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<h3>WONDER LAND.</h3> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Hail thee, Yosemite, park of sublimity!<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Majesty, peerless and old!<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Ye mountains and cliffs, ye valleys and rifts.<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Ye cascades and cataracts bold!<br /></span> -<span class="i0">None, none can divine the wonders of thine,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">When told of the glorious view!<br /></span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xi">11</span> -<span class="i0">The wild world of light—from “Beatitude’s” height,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Old “Rock Chief,”<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">1</a> “El Capitan” true!<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Thy head proud and high! white brow to the sky!<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Thy features the thunderbolts dare!<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Thou o’erlookest the wall would the boldest appal<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Who enter Yosemite’s “Lair.”<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">2</a><br /></span> -<span class="i0">Fair “Bridal Veil Fall!” the queen over all,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">In beauty and grace intertwined!<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Even now from thy height water-rockets of light<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Dart away, and seem floating in wind!<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">And thou, high “Scho-look!” proud “Ah-wah-ne!” invoke<br /></span> -<span class="i2">To receive from “Kay-o-pha”<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">3</a> a boon!<br /></span> -<span class="i0">That flowing from pines, in the region of vines,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">May temper the heat of bright noon.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">“Nevada” and “Vernal,” emblems eternal<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Of winter and loveliest Spring,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">No language so bold the truth can unfold—<br /></span> -<span class="i2">No pen can thee offerings bring!<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">And yet dare I say, of the cool “Vernal Spray,”<br /></span> -<span class="i2">In the flash of the bright sun’s power,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">I welcome thy “ring,”<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">4</a> though a drenching it bring,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">The smile of a god’s in the shower!<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And thou, “Glacier Fall,”<a id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">5</a> from thy adamant wall,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">And winter-bound lakes at thy head—<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Thy nymphs never seen, except by the sheen<br /></span> -<span class="i2">So fitful from “Mirror Lake’s” bed.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Ye North and South Domes,<a id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">6</a> “Ten-ie-ya’s” lake homes,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">“Cloud’s Rest,” and high “Tis-sa-ack” lone;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Mute “Sentinel,” “Brothers,” ye “Starr King,” ye others—<br /></span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xii">12</span> -<span class="i2">Oh! what of the past have ye known?<br /></span> -<span class="i0">To you has been given the mission from heaven<br /></span> -<span class="i2">To watch through the ages of earth!<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Your presence sublime is the chronicled time,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">From the æon the world had birth!<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiii">13</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="i_013" src="images/i_013.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">VIEW OF THE YOSEMITE.</p> - -<p>Looking up the valley from a -height of about 1,000 feet above -the Merced River, and above sea -level 5,000 feet, giving some -faint idea of the beauty, grandeur -and magnitude of this magnificent -work of nature. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiv">14</span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">1</span></p></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 class="xx-large" id="DISCOVERY_OF_THE_YOSEMITE">DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE.</h2> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Incidents leading to the discovery of the Yosemite Valley—Major Savage -and Savages—Whiskey, wrangling and War—Skinned Alive—A brisk -Fight—Repulse—Another Fight, and Conflagration.</p></blockquote> - -<p>During the winter of 1849-50, while ascending the old -Bear Valley trail from Ridley’s ferry, on the Merced river, -my attention was attracted to the stupendous rocky peaks -of the Sierra Nevadas. In the distance an immense cliff -loomed, apparently to the summit of the mountains. Although -familiar with nature in her wildest moods, I looked -upon this awe-inspiring column with wonder and admiration. -While vainly endeavoring to realize its peculiar -prominence and vast proportions, I turned from it with reluctance -to resume the search for coveted gold; but the impressions -of that scene were indelibly fixed in my memory. -Whenever an opportunity afforded, I made inquiries concerning -the scenery of that locality. But few of the miners -had noticed any of its special peculiarities. On a second -visit to Ridley’s, not long after, that towering mountain -which had so profoundly interested me was invisible, an intervening -haze obscuring it from view. A year or more -passed before the mysteries of this wonderful land were satisfactorily -solved. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">2</span></p> - -<p>During the winter of 1850-51, I was attached to an expedition -that made the first discovery of what is now known -as the Yosemite Valley. While entering it, I saw at a -glance that the reality of my sublime vision at Ridley’s -ferry, forty miles away, was before me. The locality of the -mysterious cliff was there revealed—its proportions enlarged -and perfected.</p> - -<p>The discovery of this remarkable region was an event intimately -connected with the history of the early settlement -of that portion of California. During 1850, the Indians in -Mariposa county, which at that date included all the territory -south of the divide of the Tuolumne and Merced rivers -within the valley proper of the San Joaquin, became -very troublesome to the miners and settlers. Their depredations -and murderous assaults were continued until the -arrival of the United States Indian commissioners, in 1851, -when the general government assumed control over them. -Through the management of the commissioners, treaties -were made, and many of these Indians were transferred to -locations reserved for their special occupancy.</p> - -<p>It was in the early days of the operations of this commission -that the Yosemite Valley was first entered by a command -virtually employed to perform the special police duties -of capturing and bringing the Indians before these representatives -of the government, in order that treaties might -be made with them. These wards of the general government -were provided with supplies at the expense of the -public treasury: provided that they confined themselves to -the reservations selected for them.</p> - -<p>My recollections of those early days are from personal -observations and information derived from the earlier settlers -of the San Joaquin valley, with whom I was personally -acquainted in the mining camps, and through business -connections; and also from comrades in the Indian war of -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2b">2b</span> -1850-51. Among these settlers was one James D. Savage, -a trader, who in 1849-50 was located in the mountains near -the mouth of the South Fork of the Merced river, some -fifteen miles below the Yosemite valley.</p> - -<p>At this point, engaged in gold mining, he had employed -a party of native Indians. Early in the season of 1850 his -trading post and mining camp were attacked by a band of -the Yosemite Indians. This tribe, or band, claimed the -territory in that vicinity, and attempted to drive Savage off. -Their real object, however, was plunder. They were considered -treacherous and dangerous, and were very troublesome -to the miners generally.</p> - -<p>Savage and his Indian miners repulsed the attack and -drove off the marauders, but from this occurrence he no -longer deemed this location desirable. Being fully aware -of the murderous propensities of his assailants, he removed -to Mariposa Creek, not far from the junction of the Agua -Fria, and near to the site of the old stone fort. Soon after, -he established a branch post on the Fresno, where the mining -prospects became most encouraging, as the high water -subsided in that stream. This branch station was placed -in charge of a man by the name of Greeley.</p> - -<p>At these establishments Savage soon built up a prosperous -business. He exchanged his goods at enormous profits -for the gold obtained from his Indian miners. The white -miners and prospecting parties also submitted to his demands -rather than lose time by going to Mariposa village. -The value of his patrons’ time was thus made a source of -revenue. As the season advanced, this hardy pioneer of -commerce rapidly increased his wealth, but in the midst -of renewed prosperity he learned that another cloud was -gathering over him. One of his five squaws assured him -that a combination was maturing among the mountain -Indians, to kill or drive all the white men from the country, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3a">3a</span> -and plunder them of their property. To strengthen -his influence over the principal tribes, Savage had, according -to the custom of many mountain men, taken wives from -among them, supposing his personal safety would be somewhat -improved by so doing. This is the old story of the -prosperous Indian trader. Rumor also came from his Indian -miners, that the Yosemites threatened to come down on him -again for the purpose of plunder, and that they were urging -other tribes to join them.</p> - -<p>These reports he affected to disregard, but quietly cautioned -the miners to guard against marauders.</p> - -<p>He also sent word to the leading men in the settlements -that hostilities were threatened, and advised preparations -against a surprise.</p> - -<p>At his trading posts he treated the rumors with indifference, -but instructed the men in his employ to be continually -on their guard in his absence. Stating that he was going -to “<i>the Bay</i>” for a stock of goods, he started for San -Francisco, taking with him two Indian wives, and a chief -of some note and influence who professed great friendship.</p> - -<p>This Indian, Jose Juarez, was in reality one of the leading -spirits in arousing hostilities against the whites.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding Juarez appeared to show regard for Savage, -the trader had doubts of his sincerity, but, as he had -no fears of personal injury, he carefully kept his suspicions -to himself. The real object Savage had in making this trip -was to place in a safe locality a large amount of gold which -he had on hand; and he took the chief to impress him with -the futility of any attempted outbreak by his people. He -hoped that a visit to Stockton and San Francisco, where -Jose could see the numbers and superiority of the whites, -would so impress him that on his return to the mountains -his report would deter the Indians from their proposed hostilities. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">3</span></p> - -<p>The trip was made without any incidents of importance, -but, to Savage’s disappointment and regret, Jose developed -an instinctive love for whiskey, and having been liberally -supplied with gold, he invested heavily in that favorite Indian -beverage, and was stupidly drunk nearly all the time -he was in the city.</p> - -<p>Becoming disgusted with Jose’s frequent intoxication, -Savage expressed in emphatic terms his disapprobation of -such a course. Jose at once became greatly excited, and -forgetting his usual reserve, retorted in abusive epithets, -and disclosed his secret of the intended war against the -whites.</p> - -<p>Savage also lost his self-control, and with a blow felled -the drunken Indian to the ground. Jose arose apparently -sober, and from that time maintained a silent and dignified -demeanor. After witnessing the celebration of the admission -of the State into the Union—which by appointment -occurred on October 29th, 1850, though the act of admission -passed Congress on the 9th of September of that year—and -making arrangements to have goods forwarded as he -should order them, Savage started back with his dusky retainers -for Mariposa. On his arrival at Quartzberg, he -learned that the Kah-we-ah Indians were exacting tribute -from the immigrants passing through their territory, and -soon after his return a man by the name of Moore was -killed not far from his Mariposa Station. From the -information here received, and reported murders of emigrants, -he scented danger to himself. Learning that the -Indians were too numerous at “Cassady’s Bar,” on the San-Joaquin, -and in the vicinity of his Fresno Station, he at -once, with characteristic promptness and courage, took his -course direct to that post. He found, on arriving there, -that all was quiet, although some Indians were about, as -if for trading purposes. Among them were Pon-wat-chee -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">4</span> -and Vow-ches-ter, two Indian chiefs known to be friendly. -The trader had taken two of his wives from their tribes.</p> - -<p>Savage greeted all with his customary salutation. Leaving -his squaws to confer with their friends and to provide -for their own accommodations, he quietly examined the -memoranda of his agent, and the supply of goods on hand. -With an appearance of great indifference, he listened to the -business reports and gossip of Greeley, who informed him -that Indians from different tribes had come in but had -brought but little gold. To assure himself of the progress -made by the Indians in forming a union among themselves, -he called those present around him in front of his store, and -passed the friendly pipe. After the usual silence and delay. -Savage said: “I know that all about me are my friends, -and as a friend to all, I wish to have a talk with you before -I go back to my home on the Mariposa, from which I have -been a long distance away, but where I could not stop until -I had warned you.</p> - -<p>“I know that some of the Indians do not wish to be -friends with the white men, and that they are trying to unite -the different tribes for the purpose of a war. It is better -for the Indians and white men to be friends. If the Indians -make war on the white men, every tribe will be exterminated; -not one will be left. I have just been where the -white men are more numerous than the wasps and ants; -and if war is made and the Americans are aroused to anger, -every Indian engaged in the war will be killed before the -whites will be satisfied.” In a firm and impressive manner -Savage laid before them the damaging effects of a war, and -the advantages to all of a continued peaceful intercourse. -His knowledge of Indian language was sufficient to make -his remarks clearly understood, and they were apparently -well received.</p> - -<p>Not supposing that Jose would attempt there to advocate -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4b">4b</span> -any of his schemes, the trader remarked, as he finished his -speech: “A chief who has returned with me from the place -where the white men are so numerous, can tell that what I -have said is true—Jose Juarez—you all know, and will believe -him when he tells you the white men are more powerful -than the Indians.”</p> - -<p>The cunning chief with much dignity, deliberately stepped -forward, with more assurance than he had shown since the -belligerent occurrence at the bay, and spoke with more energy -than Savage had anticipated. He commenced by saying: -“Our brother has told his Indian relatives much that is truth; -we have seen many people; the white men are very numerous; -but the white men we saw on our visit are of many -tribes; they are not like the tribe that dig gold in the mountains.” -He then gave an absurd description of what he had -seen while below, and said: “Those white tribes will not -come to the mountains. They will not help the gold diggers -if the Indians make war against them. If the gold -diggers go to the white tribes in the big village they give -their gold for strong water and games; when they have no -more gold the white tribes drive the gold-diggers back to -the mountains with clubs. They strike them down (referring -to the police), as your white relative struck me while I -was with him.” (His vindictive glance assured Savage that -the blow was not forgotten or forgiven.) “The white tribes -will not go to war with the Indians in the mountains. -They cannot bring their big ships and big guns to us; we -have no cause to fear them. They will not injure us.”</p> - -<p>To Savage’s extreme surprise, he then boldly advocated -an immediate war upon the whites, assuring his listeners -that, as all the territory belonged to the Indians, if the -tribes would unite the whole tribe of gold-diggers could be -easily driven from their country; but, if the gold-diggers -should stay longer, their numbers will be too great to make -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5a">5a</span> -war upon, and the Indians would finally be destroyed. In -his speech Jose evinced a keenness of observation inconsistent -with his apparent drunken stupidity. Savage had -thought this stupidity sometimes assumed. He now felt -assured that the chief had expected thereby to learn his -plans. To the writer there seems to be nothing inconsistent -with Indian craft, keenness of observation and love of -revenge in Jose’s conduct, though he was frequently drunk -while at “the bay.” While Jose was speaking other Indians -had joined the circle around him. Their expressions -of approval indicated the effects of his speech. During this -time Savage had been seated on a log in front of the store, -a quiet listener. When Jose concluded, the trader arose, -and stepping forward, calmly addressed the relatives of his -wives and the Indians in whom he still felt confidence. -The earnest and positive speech of the cunning chief had -greatly surprised him; he was somewhat discouraged at the -approval with which it had been received; but with great -self-possession, he replied, “I have listened very attentively -to what the chief, who went with me as my friend, has been -saying to you. I have heard all he has said. He has told -you of many things that he saw. He has told you some -truth. He has told of many things which he knows nothing -about. He has told you of things he saw in his dreams, -while “strong water” made him sleep. The white men we -saw there are all of the same tribe as the gold-diggers here -among the mountains. He has told you he saw white men -that were pale, and had tall hats on their heads, with clothing -different from the gold-diggers. This was truth, but -they are all brothers, all of one tribe. All can wear the -clothing of the gold-diggers; all can climb the mountains, -and if war is made on the gold-diggers, the white men will -come and fight against the Indians. Their numbers will -be so great, that every tribe will be destroyed that joins -in a war against them.” -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">5</span></p> - -<p>Jose observing the effects of these statements, excitedly -interrupted Savage by entering the circle, exclaiming: “He -is telling you words that are not true. His tongue is forked -and crooked. He is telling lies to his Indian relatives. -This trader is not a friend to the Indians. He is not our -brother. He will help the white gold-diggers to drive the -Indians from their country. We can now drive them from -among us, and if the other white tribes should come to their -help, we will go to the mountains; if they follow after us, -they cannot find us; none of them will come back; we will -kill them with arrows and with rocks.” While Jose was -thus vociferously haranguing, other Indians came into the -grounds, and the crisis was approaching. As Jose Juarez -ended his speech, Jose Rey, another influential chief and -prominent leader, walked proudly into the now enlarged -circle, followed by his suite of treacherous Chow-chillas, -among whom were Tom-Kit and Frederico. He keenly -glanced about him, and assuming a grandly tragic style, at -once commenced a speech by saying: “My people are now -ready to begin a war against the white gold-diggers. If all -the tribes will be as one tribe, and join with us, we will -drive all the white men from our mountains. If all the -tribes will go together, the white men will run from us, and -leave their property behind them. The tribes who join in -with my people will be the first to secure the property of -the gold-diggers.”</p> - -<p>The dignity and eloquent style of Jose Rey controlled the -attention of the Indians. This appeal to their cupidity interested -them; a common desire for plunder would be the -strongest inducement to unite against the whites.</p> - -<p>Savage was now fully aware that he had been defeated at -this impromptu council he had himself organized, and at -once withdrew to prepare for the hostilities he was sure -would soon follow. As soon as the Indians dispersed, he -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">6</span> -started with his squaws for home, and again gave the settlers -warning of what was threatened and would soon be attempted.</p> - -<p>These occurrences were narrated to me by Savage. The -incidents of the council at the Fresno Station were given -during the familiar conversations of our intimate acquaintanceship. -The Indian speeches here quoted are like all -others of their kind, really but poor imitations. The Indian -is very figurative in his language. If a literal translation -were attempted his speeches would seem so disjointed and -inverted in their methods of expression, that their signification -could scarcely be understood; hence only the substance -is here given.</p> - -<p>The reports from Savage were considered by the miners -and settlers as absurd. It was generally known that mountain -men of Savage’s class were inclined to adopt the vagaries -and superstitions of the Indians with whom they were -associated; and therefore but little attention was given to -the trader’s warnings. It was believed that he had listened -to the blatant palaver of a few vagabond “Digger Indians,” -and that the threatened hostilities were only a quarrel between -Savage and his Indian miners, or with some of his -Indian associates. Cassady, a rival trader, especially scoffed -at the idea of danger, and took no precautions to guard himself -or establishment. The settlers of Indian Gulch and -Quartzberg were, however, soon after startled by a report -brought by one of Savage’s men called “Long-haired -Brown,” that the traders’ store on the Fresno had been -robbed, and all connected with it killed except himself. -Brown had been warned by an Indian he had favored, known -as Polonio-Arosa, but notwithstanding this aid, he had to -take the chances of a vigorous pursuit.</p> - -<p>Brown was a large man of great strength and activity, -and as he said, had dodged their arrows and distanced his -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6b">6b</span> -pursuers in the race. Close upon the heels of this report, -came a rumor from the miners’ camp on Mariposa creek, -that Savage’s establishment at that place had also been plundered -and burned, and all connected with it killed. This -report was soon after corrected by the appearance of the -trader at Quartzberg. Savage was highly offended at the indifference -with which his cautions had been received at Mariposa, -and by the county authorities, then located at Agua-Fria. -He stated that his wives had assured him that a raid was -about to be made on his establishment, and warned him of -the danger of a surprise. He had at once sought aid from -personal friends at Horse Shoe Bend—where he had once -traded—to remove or protect his property. While he was -absent, Greeley, Stiffner and Kennedy had been killed, his -property plundered and burned, and his wives carried off -by their own people. These squaws had been importuned -to leave the trader, but had been faithful to his interests. -The excitement of these occurrences had not subsided before -news came of the murder of Cassady and four men near -the San Joaquin. Another murderous assault was soon -after reported by an immigrant who arrived at Cassady’s -Bar, on the upper crossing of the San Joaquin. His shattered -arm and panting horse excited the sympathies of the -settlers, and aroused the whole community. The wounded -man was provided for, and a party at once started for the -“Four Creeks,” where he had left his comrades fighting the -Indians.</p> - -<p>The arm of the wounded man was amputated by Dr. Lewis -Leach, of St. Louis, Mo., an immigrant who had but just -come in over the same route. The name of the wounded -man was Frank W. Boden. He stated that his party—four -men, I believe, besides himself—had halted at the “Four -Creeks” to rest and graze their horses, and while there a -band of Indians (Ka-we-ahs) came down from their village -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7a">7a</span> -and demanded tribute for crossing their territory. Looking -upon the demand as a new form of Indian beggary, but little -attention was paid to them. After considerable bantering -talk, some tobacco was given them, and they went off -grumbling and threatening. Boden said: “After the Indians -left we talked over the matter for a while; none regarded -the demand of the ‘Indian tax-gatherers’ but as a trivial -affair. I then mounted my horse and rode off in the direction -in which we had seen some antelopes as we came -on. I had not gone far before I heard firing in the direction -of our halting-place.</p> - -<p>“Riding back, I saw the house near which I had left my -comrades was surrounded by yelling demons. I was discovered -by them at the same instant, and some of them -dashed toward me. Seeing no possibility of joining my -party, I turned and struck my horse with the spurs, but before -I could get beyond range of their arrows, I felt a benumbing -sensation in my arm, which dropped powerless. -Seeing that my arm was shattered or broken, I thought I -would give them one shot at least before I fell into their -hands. Checking my horse with some difficulty, I turned -so as to rest my rifle across my broken arm, and took sight -on the nearest of my pursuers, who halted at the same -time.”</p> - -<p>At this point in his story the hardy adventurer remarked -with a twinkle of satisfaction in his bright, keen eye: “I -never took better aim in my life. That Indian died suddenly. -Another dash was made for me. My horse did not -now need the spurs, he seemed to be aware that we must -leave that locality as soon as possible, and speedily distanced -them all. As soon as the first excitement was over I -suffered excruciating pain in my arm. My rifle being useless -to me, I broke it against a tree and threw it away. I -then took the bridle rein in my teeth and carried the broken -arm in my other hand.” -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">7</span></p> - -<p>The party that went out to the place of attack—Dr. -Thomas Payn’s, now Visalia, named for Nat. Vice, an acquaintance -of the writer—found there the mangled bodies -of Boden’s four companions. One of these, it was shown -by unmistakable evidence, had been skinned by the merciless -fiends while yet alive.</p> - -<p>These men had doubtless made a stout resistance. Like -brave men they had fought for their lives, and caused, no -doubt, a heavy loss to their assailants. This, with their refusal -to comply with the demand for tribute, was the motive -for such wolfish barbarity.</p> - -<p>It now became necessary that some prompt action should -be taken for general protection. Rumors of other depredations -and murders alarmed the inhabitants of Mariposa -county. Authentic statements of these events were at once -forwarded to Governor John McDougall, by the sheriff and -other officials, and citizens, urging the immediate adoption -of some measures on the part of the State for the defense -of the people. Raids upon the miners’ camps and the -“Ranch” of the settlers had become so frequent that on -its being rumored that the Indians were concentrating for -more extensive operations, a party, without waiting for any -official authority, collected and started out to check the ravages -of the marauders that were found gathering among -the foothills. With but limited supplies, and almost without -organization, this party made a rapid and toilsome -march among the densely wooded mountains in pursuit of -the savages, who, upon report of our movements, were now -retreating. This party came up with the Indians at a point -high up on the Fresno. In the skirmish which followed a -Lt. Skeane was killed, William Little was seriously -wounded and some others slightly injured.</p> - -<p>This engagement, which occurred on January 11th, -1851, was not a very satisfactory one to the whites. -The necessity of a more efficient organization was shown. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">8</span> -The Indians had here taken all the advantages of position -and successfully repulsed the attack of the whites, who -withdrew, and allowed the former to continue their course.</p> - -<p>Some of the party returned to the settlements for supplies -and reinforcements, taking with them the wounded.</p> - -<p>Those who remained, reorganized, and leisurely followed -the Indians to near the North Fork of the San Joaquin -river, where they had encamped on a round rugged mountain -covered with a dense undergrowth—oaks and digger -pine. Here, protected by the sheltering rocks and trees, -they defiantly taunted the whites with cowardice and their -late defeat. They boasted of their robberies and murders, -and called upon Savage to come out where he could be -killed. In every possible manner they expressed their -contempt. Savage—who had joined the expedition—became -very much exasperated, and at first favored an immediate -assault, but wiser counsels prevailed, and by Captain -Boling’s prudent advice, Savage kept himself in reserve, -knowing that he would be an especial mark, and as Boling -had said, his knowledge of the Indians and their territory -could not very well be dispensed with. This course did -not please all, and, as might have been expected, then and -afterwards disparaging remarks were made.</p> - -<p>The leaders in exciting hostilities against the whites were -Jose Juarez and Jose Rey. The bands collected on this -mountain were under the leadership of Jose Rey, who was -also known by his English name of “King Joseph.” The -tribes represented were the Chow-chilla, Chook-chan-cie, -Noot-chu, Ho-nah-chee, Po-to-en-cie, Po-ho-no-chee, Kah-we-ah -and Yosemite. The number of fighting men or warriors -was estimated at about 500, while that of the whites -did not exceed 100.</p> - -<p>It was late in the day when the Indians were discovered. -A general council was held, and it was decided that no attack -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8b">8b</span> -should be made until their position could be studied, -and the probable number to be encountered, ascertained. -Captain Kuy-ken-dall, Lieutenants Doss and Chandler, and -others, volunteered to make a reconnoissance before night -should interfere with their purpose.</p> - -<p>The scouting party was not noticed until on its return, -when it was followed back to camp by the Indians, where -during nearly the whole night their derisive shouts and -menaces in broken Spanish and <i>native American</i>, made incessant -vigilance of the whole camp a necessity. A council -was again called to agree on the plan to be adopted. This -council of war was general; official position was disregarded -except to carry out the decisions of the party or command. -The scouts had discovered that this rendezvous was an old -Indian village as well as stronghold.</p> - -<p>The plan was that an attack should be undertaken at daylight, -and that an effort should be made to set fire to the -village, preliminary to the general assault. This plan was -strongly advocated by the more experienced ones who had -seen service in Mexico and in Indian warfare.</p> - -<p>Kuy-ken-dall, Doss and Chandler, “as brave men as ever -grew,” seemed to vie with each other for the leadership, and -at starting Kuy-ken-dall seemed to be in command, but -when the assault was made, Chandler’s <i>elan</i> carried him -ahead of all, and he thus became the <i>leader</i> indeed.</p> - -<p>But thirty-six men were detached for the preliminary -service. Everything being arranged the attacking party -started before daylight. The Indians had but a little while -before ceased their annoyances around the camp. The reserve -under Savage and Boling were to follow more leisurely. -Kuy-ken-dall’s command reached the Indian camp -without being discovered. Without the least delay the -men dashed in and with brands from the camp fires, set the -wigwams burning, and at the same time madly attacked -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9a">9a</span> -the now alarmed camp. The light combustible materials -of which the wigwams were composed were soon in a bright -blaze. So rapid and so sudden were the charges made, -that the panic-stricken warriors at once fled from their -stronghold. Jose Rey was among the first shot down. -The Indians made a rally to recover their leader; Chandler -observing them, shouted “Charge, boys! Charge!!” Discharging -another volley, the men rushed forward.</p> - -<p>The savages turned and fled down the mountain, answering -back the shout of Chandler to charge by replying, -“Chargee!” “Chargee!” as they disappeared.</p> - -<p>The whole camp was routed, and sought safety among the -rocks and brush, and by flight.</p> - -<p>This was an unexpected result. The whole transaction -had been so quickly and recklessly done that the reserve -under Boling and Savage had no opportunity to participate in -the assault, and but imperfectly witnessed the scattering of -the terrified warriors. Kuy-ken-dall, especially, displayed a -coolness and valor entitling him to command, though outrun -by Chandler in the assault. The fire from the burning -village spread so rapidly down the mountain side toward -our camp as to endanger its safety. While the whites were -saving their camp supplies, the Indians under cover of the -smoke escaped. No prisoners were taken; twenty-three -were killed; the number wounded was never known. Of -the settlers, but one was really wounded, though several -were scorched and bruised in the fight. None were -killed. The scattering flight of the Indians made a further -pursuit uncertain. The supplies were too limited for an -extended chase; and as none had reached the little army -from those who had returned, and time would be lost in -waiting, it was decided to return to the settlements before -taking any other active measures. The return was accomplished -without interruption. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">9</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>The Governor of California issues a Proclamation—Formation of the Mariposa -Battalion—The Origin and Cause of the War—New Material -Public Documents—A Discussion—Capt. Walker—The Peace Commissioners’ -Parley and the Indians’ Pow-wow—The Mysterious -Deep Valley—Forward, March!</p></blockquote> - -<p>The State authorities had in the meantime become -aroused. The reports of Indian depredations multiplied, -and a general uprising was for a time threatened.</p> - -<p>Proclamations were therefore issued by Gov. McDougall, -calling for volunteers, to prevent further outrages and to -punish the marauders. Our impromptu organization formed -the nucleus of the volunteer force in Mariposa county, as a -large majority of the men at once enlisted. Another battalion -was organized for the region of Los Angelos. Our -new organization, when full, numbered two hundred mounted -men. This was accomplished in time, by Major Savage -riding over to the San Joaquin, and bringing back men from -Cassady’s Bar.</p> - -<p>The date from which we were regularly mustered into the -service was January 24th, 1851. The volunteers provided -their own horses and equipments. The camp supplies and -baggage trains were furnished by the State. This military -force was called into existence by the State authorities, but -by act of Congress its maintenance was at the expense of -the general government, under direction of Indian commissioners. -Major Ben McCullough was offered the command -of this battalion, but he declined it. This position was -urged upon him with the supposition that if he accepted it -the men who had once served under him would be induced -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">10</span> -to enlist—many of the “Texan Rangers” being residents -of Mariposa county.</p> - -<p>Major McCullough was at that time employed as Collector -of “Foreign Miners’ Tax,” a very lucrative office. As -a personal acquaintance, he stated to me that the position -was not one that would bring him honor or pecuniary advantages. -That he had no desire to leave a good position, -except for one more profitable.</p> - -<p>The officers, chosen by the men, recommended to and -commissioned by Governor McDougall, were James D. -Savage, as Major; John J. Kuy-ken-dall, John Boling, and -William Dill, as Captains; M. B. Lewis, as Adjutant; -John I. Scott, Reuben T. Chandler, and Hugh W. Farrell, -as First Lieutenants; Robert E. Russell, as Sergeant -Major; Dr. A. Bronson, as Surgeon, and Drs. Pfifer -and Black as Assistant Surgeons. A few changes of -Lieutenants and subordinate officers were afterward made.</p> - -<p>Upon the resignation of Surgeon Bronson, Dr. Lewis -Leach, was appointed to fill the vacancy.</p> - -<p>While writing up these recollections, in order to verify -my dates, which I knew were not always chronologically exact, -I addressed letters to the State departments of California -making inquiries relative to the “Mariposa Battalion,” -organized in 1851. In answer to my inquiry concerning -these known facts, the following was received from Adj. -General L. H. Foot. He says: “The records of this office, -both written and printed, are so incomplete, that I am -not aware from consulting them that the organization to -which you allude had existence.” It is a matter of regret -that the history of the early settlement of California is, to -so great an extent, traditionary, without public records of -many important events. It is not deemed just that the -faithful services of the “Mariposa Battalion,” should be -forgotten with the fading memory of the pioneers of that -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10b">10b</span> -period. There is in the State, an almost entire absence of -any public record of the “Indian war,” of which the discovery -of the Yosemite valley was an important episode.</p> - -<p>Until the publication of Mr. J. M. Hutching’s book, “In -The Heart of The Sierras, Yo Semite, Big Trees, etc.,” which -contains valuable public documents, the author of “Discovery -of The Yosemite” was, as stated on page 30, unable -to obtain any official records concerning the operations -of the Mariposa battalion, or of the events which preceded -and caused the Indian War of 1851. Now that Mr. -Hutching’s persistent industry has brought light from darkness, -I interrupt my narrative to make clear the origin of -the war, and to justify the early Pioneers engaged in it. -As a sample, also, of many obstructions encountered, I insert -a few extracts from letters relating to the “Date of -Discovery,” furnished the <i>Century</i> Magazine.</p> - -<p>The attack made upon Savage on the Merced river in -1850, had for its object plunder and intimidation, and as -an invasion of Ten-ie-ya’s territory was no longer threatened -after the removal of Mr. Savage to the Mariposa, the Yo -Semities contented themselves with the theft of horses -and clothing, but a general war was still impending, as -may be seen by reference to page 31 of “In The Heart of -The Sierras,” where appears: Report of Col. Adam Johnston, -a special agent, to Gov. Peter H. Burnett, upon his -return from Mariposa county to San Jose, then the Capital -of California, and which I here present: San Jose, January -2, 1851. Sir: I have the honor to submit to you, as -the executive of the State of California, some facts connected -with the recent depredations committed by the -Indians, within the bounds of the State, upon the persons -and property of her citizens. The immediate scene of -their hostile movements are at and in the vicinity of the -Mariposa and Fresno. The Indians in that portion of your -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11a">11a</span> -State have, for some time past, exhibited disaffection and -a restless feeling toward the whites. Thefts were continually -being perpetrated by them, but no act of hostility -had been committed by them on the person of any individual, -which indicated general enmity on the part of -the Indians, until the night of the 17th December last. -I was then at the camp of Mr. James D. Savage, on -the Mariposa, where I had gone for the purpose of reconciling -any difficulty that might exist between the Indians -and the whites in that vicinity. From various conversations -which I had held with different chiefs, I concluded -there was no immediate danger to be apprehended. On -the evening of the 17th of December, we were, however, -surprised by the sudden disappearance of the Indians. -They left in a body, but no one knew why, or where they -had gone. From the fact that Mr. Savage’s domestic Indians -had forsaken him and gone with those of the rancheria, -or village, he immediately suspected that something -of a serious nature was in contemplation, or had already -been committed by them.</p> - -<p>The manner of their leaving, in the night, and by stealth, -induced Mr. Savage to believe that whatever act they had -committed or intended to commit, might be connected with -himself. Believing that he could overhaul his Indians -before others could join them, and defeat any contemplated -depredations on their part, he, with sixteen men, started -in pursuit. He continued upon their traces for about -thirty miles, when he came upon their encampment. The -Indians had discovered his approach, and fled to an adjacent -mountain, leaving behind them two small boys asleep, -and the remains of an aged female, who had died, no -doubt from fatigue. Near to the encampment Mr. Savage -ascended a mountain in pursuit of the Indians, from which -he discovered them upon another mountain at a distance. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">11</span> -From these two mountain tops, conversation was commenced -and kept up for some time between Mr. Savage -and the chief, who told him that they had murdered the -men on the Fresno, and robbed the camp. The chief had -formerly been on the most friendly terms with Savage, but -would not now permit him to approach him. Savage said -to them it would be better for them to return to their village—that -with very little labor daily, they could procure -sufficient gold to purchase them clothing and food. To -this the chief replied it was a hard way to get a living, -and that they could more easily supply their wants by -stealing from the whites. He also said to Savage he -must not deceive the whites by telling them lies, he must -not tell them that the Indians were friendly; they were -not, but on the contrary were their deadly enemies, and -that they intended killing and plundering them so long -as a white face was seen in the country. Finding all -efforts to induce them to return, or to otherwise reach -them, had failed, Mr. Savage and his company concluded to -return. When about leaving, they discovered a body of -Indians, numbering about two hundred, on a distant -mountain, who seemed to be approaching those with -whom he had been talking.</p> - -<p>Mr. Savage and company arrived at his camp in the -night of Thursday in safety. In the mean time, as news -had reached us of murders committed on the Fresno, we -had determined to proceed to the Fresno, where the -men had been murdered. Accordingly on the day following, -Friday, the 20th, I left the Mariposa camp with -thirty-five men, for the camp on the Fresno, to see the -situation of things there, and to bury the dead. I also -dispatched couriers to Agua Fria, Mariposa, and several -other mining sections, hoping to concentrate a sufficient -force on the Fresno to pursue the Indians into the mountains. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">12</span> -Several small companies of men left their respective -places of residence to join us, but being unacquainted -with the country they were unable to meet us. We -reached the camp on the Fresno a short time after daylight. -It presented a horrid scene of savage cruelty. The -Indians had destroyed everything they could not use or -carry with them. The store was stripped of blankets, -clothing, flour, and everything of value; the safe was -broken open and rifled of its contents; the cattle, horses -and mules had been run into the mountains; the murdered -men had been stripped of their clothing, and lay before us -filled with arrows; one of them had yet twenty perfect -arrows sticking in him. A grave was prepared, and the -unfortunate persons interred. Our force being small, we -thought it not prudent to pursue the Indians farther into -the mountains, and determined to return. The Indians in -that part of the country are quite numerous, and have been -uniting other tribes with them for some time. On reaching -our camp on the Mariposa, we learned that most of the -Indians in the valley had left their villages and taken their -women and children to the mountains. This is generally -looked upon as a sure indication of their hostile intentions. -It is feared that many of the miners in the more remote -regions have already been cut off, and Agua Fria and -Mariposa are hourly threatened.</p> - -<p>Under this state of things, I come here at the earnest -solicitations of the people of that region, to ask such aid -from the state government as will enable them to protect -their persons and property. I submit these facts for your -consideration, and have the honor to remain,</p> - -<p class="author"> -Yours very respectfully,<br /> -<span class="smcap">Adam Johnston</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>To his excellency Peter H. Burnett. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">13</span></p> - -<p>The report of Col. Johnston to Gov. Burnett had the -desired result, for immediately after inauguration, his successor, -Gov. McDougal, on January 13, 1851, issued a -proclamation calling for one hundred volunteers, and this -number by a subsequent order dated January 24th, 1851, -after receipt of Sheriff James Burney’s report, bearing -the same date of the governor’s first call for one hundred -men, was increased to “two hundred able bodied men, -under officers of their own selection.”</p> - -<p>To insure a prompt suppression of hostilities, or a vigorous -prosecution of the war, on January 25th, 1851, Gov. -McDougal appointed Col. J. Neely Johnson of his staff a -special envoy to visit Mariposa county, and in an -emergency, to call out additional forces if required, and -do whatever seemed best for the interests and safety of -the people endangered.</p> - -<p>Col. Adam Johnston, before leaving for San Jose, had, -as he reported, “dispatched couriers to Agua Fria, Mariposa, -and several other mining sections, hoping to concentrate -a sufficient force on the Fresno to pursue the Indians -into the mountains. Several small companies of men left -their respective places of residence to join us, but being -unacquainted with the country they were unable to meet -us.”</p> - -<p>The same apparent difficulties beset Sheriff Burney, as -he was able to collect but seventy-four men, but want of -knowledge of the country was not the sole cause of delay. -The Indians of the mountains at that time having been -accustomed to the occupation for many years of despoiling -the Californians, were the most expert bare back riders -and horse thieves in the world, and when many of us who -had horses and mules herding in the valley ranches of the -foot-hills and Merced bottoms, sent for them to carry us -into the distant mountains of the Fresno, where we had -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">14</span> -heard the Indians were concentrating, our messengers in -many instances found the animals stolen or stampeded, and -hence the delay in most instances, though some of the -mining population who had arrived in California by water, -never seemed able to guide themselves without a compass, -and would get lost if they left a beaten trail. As for -myself, I could scarcely become lost, except in a heavy -fog or snow storm, and upon two occasions in the mountains -was compelled to leave my comrades, who were -utterly and wilfully lost, but who, finding me the most -persistent, finally called to me and followed out to well -known land marks.</p> - -<p>It will appear by the letter of Major Burney that “The -different squads from the various places rendezvoused not -far from this place (Agua Fria), on Monday, 6th, and numbered -but seventy-four men.” I was at Shirlock’s Creek -on the night before, Jan. 5th, 1851, and had promised to -join the Major in the morning; but when the morning -came, my animals were gone, stolen by Indians from my -Mexican herdman.</p> - -<p>Mr. C. H. Spencer had sent his servant “Jimmy,” to -Snelling’s ranche, on the Merced River, for his animals, -and after a delay of perhaps two or three days, they were -brought up for use. Mr. Spencer kindly loaned me a -mule for temporary use, but upon his having his saddle -mule stolen a few nights after, I gave back his mule and -bought a fine one of Thos. J. Whitlock, for whom Whitlock’s -Creek was named. I had previously been able to -start with a small squad on the trail of Major Burney and his -brave men, but met some of them returning after the fight, -among whom I remember, were Wm. Little, shot through -the lungs, but who finally recovered, a Mr. Smith, known -as “Yankee Smith,” sick, as he said, “from a bare-footed -fool exposure in the snow,” and Dr. Pfifer, who had been -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">15</span> -given the care of the wounded and sick men. There were -several others unknown to me, or whose names I have now -forgotten.</p> - -<p>The different accounts I received from the men engaged -in the fight, were so conflicting, that in referring to it -in previous editions, on page 25, I could only say that it -“was not a very satisfactory one to the whites.” I could -only state the general impression received from Mr. -Little’s account, which was that the men had been unnecessarily -exposed to cold and danger, and that only by the -dash and bravery of the officers and men engaged in the -affair were they able to withdraw into a place of temporary -safety, until joined by re-inforcements.</p> - -<p>Indian fighting was new to most of the men engaged, -and, like the soldiers on both sides at the outbreak of -the Rebellion, they had been led to expect a too easy -victory.</p> - -<p>But we have now the report of Major Burney to Gov. -McDougal, and also a letter from Mr. Theodore G. -Palmer, of Newark, New Jersey, to his father, written -five days after the battle, and which has been kindly -placed at my disposal. Military men will readily perceive -and enjoy the entire artlessness and intended truthfulness -of Mr. Palmer’s letter, as well as his modest -bravery. The two letters read in connection with that of -Col. Adam Johnston, are most valuable in fixing dates -and locations for any one with a knowledge of the topography -of the country, and of the events they narrate. -They set at rest forever the absurd claim that the -first battle of the Indian War of 1851 was fought in -the Yosemite valley, for the battle was fought on a -mountain. Mr. Hutchings, to whose industry so much -is due, has strangely overlooked the fact, that the reference -to “Monday 6th,” in Major Burney’s letter, could -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">16</span> -only have reference to Monday, January 6th, 1851, the -month in which the letter was written, and not to December, -1850, as given by Mr. Hutchings, in brackets. The -6th of December, 1850, occurred on a Friday; on Tuesday, -December 17, 1850, the three men were killed on the -Fresno river station of James D. Savage; on Friday, December -20th, 1850, they were buried; on Monday, January -6th, 1851, Major Burney, sheriff of Mariposa County, -assembled a strong <i>posse</i> to go in pursuit of the Indian -murderers, and coming up with them on a mountain -stronghold on Jan. 11th, 1851, destroyed their villages, -and then retreated <i>down</i> the mountain some four miles to -<i>a plain</i> in the Fresno valley, where he erected a log -breastwork for temporary defense. Nothing but the most -vivid imagination, coupled with an entire ignorance of the -region of the Yosemite, could liken the two localities to -each other. The Hetch Hetchy valley of the Tuolumne -river and some of the cliffs of the Tuolumne and of the -King’s river, bear a general resemblance to some of the -scenery of the Yosemite, but when the Yosemite valley -itself has been seen, it will never be forgotten by the -visitor.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Major Burney’s Letter to Gov. McDougal.</span></h3> - -<p class="author"> -<span class="smcap">Agua Fria</span>, January 13, 1851.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Sir</span>: Your Excellency has doubtlessly been informed -by Mr. Johnston and others, of repeated and aggravated -depredations of the Indians in this part of the State. -Their more recent outrages you are probably not aware of. -Since the departure of Mr. Johnston, the Indian agent, -they have killed a portion of the citizens on the head of -the San Joaquin river, driven the balance off, taken -away all movable property, and destroyed all they could -not take away. They have invariably murdered and -robbed all the small parties they fell in with between here -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">17</span> -and the San Joaquin. News came here last night that -seventy-two men were killed on Rattlesnake Creek; several -men have been killed in Bear Valley. The Fine Gold -Gulch has been deserted, and the men came in here yesterday. -Nearly all the mules and horses in this part of -the State have been stolen, both from the mines and the -ranches. And I now, in the name of the people of this -part of the State, and for the good of our country, appeal -to your Excellency for assistance.</p> - -<p>In order to show your Excellency that the people have -done all that they can do to suppress these things, to secure -quiet and safety in the possession of our property and -lives, I will make a brief statement of what has been -done here.</p> - -<p>After the massacres on the Fresno, San Joaquin, etc., -we endeavored to raise a volunteer company to drive the -Indians back, if not to take them or force them into -measures. The different squads from the various places -rendezvoused not far from this place on Monday, 6th, and -numbered but seventy-four men. A company was formed, -and I was elected captain; J. W. Riley, first lieutenant; E. -Skeane, second lieutenant. We had but eight day’s -provisions, and not enough animals to pack our provisions -and blankets, as it should have been done. We, however, -marched, and on the following day struck a large trail of -horses that had been stolen by the Indians. I sent forward -James D. Savage with a small spy force, and I followed -the trail with my company. About two o’clock in -the morning, Savage came in and reported the village near, -as he had heard the Indians singing. Here I halted, left -a small guard with my animals, and went forward with the -balance of my men. We reached the village just before -day, and at dawn, but before there was light enough to see -how to fire our rifles with accuracy, we were discovered by -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">18</span> -their sentinel. When I saw that he had seen us, I ordered -a charge on the village (this had been reconnoitered by -Savage and myself). The Indian sentinel and my company -got to the village at the same time, he yelling to -give the alarm. I ordered them to surrender, some of -them ran off, some seemed disposed to surrender, but -others fired on us; we fired and charged into the village. -Their ground had been selected on account of the advantages -it possessed in their mode of warfare. They numbered -about four hundred, and fought us three hours -and a half.</p> - -<p>We killed from forty to fifty, but cannot exactly tell -how many, as they took off all they could get to. Twenty-six -were killed in and around the village, and a number of -others in the chaparrel. We burned the village and provisions, -and took four horses. Our loss was six wounded, -two mortally; one of the latter was Lieutenant Skeane, -the other a Mr. Little, whose bravery and conduct through -the battle cannot be spoken of too highly. We made litters, -on which we conveyed our wounded, and had to -march four miles down the mountain, to a suitable place -to camp, the Indians firing at us all the way, from peaks -on either side, but so far off as to do little damage. My -men had been marching or fighting from the morning of -the day before, without sleep, and with but little to eat. -On the plain, at the foot of the mountain, we made a rude, -but substantial fortification; and at a late hour those who -were not on guard, were permitted to sleep. Our sentinels -were (as I anticipated they would be) firing at the Indians -occasionally all night, but I had ordered them not to come -in until they were driven in.</p> - -<p>I left my wounded men there, with enough of my company -to defend the little fort, and returned to this place -for provisions and recruits. I send them to-day re-inforcements -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">19</span> -and provisions, and in two days more I march by -another route, with another re-inforcement, and intend to -attack another village before going to the fort. The Indians -are watching the movements at the fort, and I can -come up in the rear of them unsuspectedly, and we can -keep them back until I can hear from Your Excellency.</p> - -<p>If Your Excellency thinks proper to authorize me or -any other person to keep this company together, we can -force them into measures in a short time. But if not -authorized and commissioned to do so, and furnished with -some arms and provisions, or the means to buy them, and -pay for the services of the men, my company must be -disbanded, as they are not able to lose so much time -without any compensation.</p> - -<p class="author"> -Very respectfully, your obedient servant,<br /> -<span class="smcap">James Burney</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>In a subsequent letter of Major Burney, addressed to -Hon. W. J. Howard, occurs the following passage:</p> - -<p>“The first night out you came into my camp and reported -that the Indians had stolen all your horses and -mules—a very large number; that you had followed their -trail into the hill country, but, deeming it imprudent to go -there alone, had turned northward, hoping to strike my -trail, having heard that I had gone out after Indians. I -immediately, at sunset, sent ten men (yourself among the -number) under Lieutenant Skeane—who was killed in -the fight next day—to look out for the trail, and report, -which was very promptly carried out.”</p> - -<p>Page 35, “In Heart of S. and Legislative Journal” for -1851, page 600.</p> - -<p>It is only required of me to say here that re-inforced -by such leaders of men as Kuykendall, Boling, Chandler -and Doss, there was no delay, and the campaign was -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">20</span> -completed at “Battle Mountain,” a water shed of the San -Joaquin.</p> - -<p>I now introduce a letter of great value, to me, as it -fixes the date of the first battle, and disproves assertions -made in the <i>Century</i> Magazine:</p> - -<p class="author"> -<span class="smcap">Hart’s Ranch, California</span>, <span class="smcap">January</span> 16th, 1851.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">My Dear Father</span>: When I wrote my last letter to you I had -fully determined to take a Ranch near Pacheco’s Pass, as I informed -you, but before three days had passed the report of Jim -Kennedy’s murder on the Fresno was confirmed, and I started -for the mountains in pursuit of the Indians who were committing -depredations all through the country and had sworn to kill -every white man in it. Four hundred men had promised to go, -but at the appointed time only seventy-seven made their appearance. -With these we started under the command of Major -Burney, Sheriff of Mariposa County, guided by Mr. Jas. D. -Savage, who is without doubt the best man in the world for -hunting them out.</p> - -<p>From his long acquaintance with the Indians, Mr. Savage has -learned their ways so thoroughly that they cannot deceive him. -He has been one of their greatest chiefs, and speaks their language -as well as they can themselves. No dog can follow a -trail like he can. No horse endure half so much. He sleeps -but little, can go days without food, and can run a hundred miles -in a day and night over the mountains and then sit and laugh for -hours over a camp-fire as fresh and lively as if he had just been -taking a little walk for exercise.</p> - -<p>With him for a guide we felt little fear of not being able to -find them.</p> - -<p>On Friday morning about ten o’clock, our camp again moved -forward and kept traveling until one that night, when “halt! -we are on the Indians,” passed in a whisper down the line. -Every heart beat quicker as we silently unsaddled our animals -and tied them to the bushes around us. Commands were given -in whispers and we were formed in a line. Sixty were chosen -for the expedition, the balance remaining behind in charge of -camp. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">21</span></p> - -<p>Savage said the Indians were about six miles off; that they -were engaged in a feast. He pointed out their fires, could hear -them sing and could smell them, but his eyes were the only ones -that could see; his ears alone could hear, and his nose smell -anything unusual. Still, there was such confidence placed in -him that not one doubted for an instant that everything was as -he said.</p> - -<p>About two o’clock we started in Indian file, as still as it was -possible for sixty men to move in the dark, for the moon had -set. For three long hours did we walk slowly and cautiously -over the rocks and bushes, through the deepest ravines and up -steep and ragged mountain, until within a half mile of the -enemy.</p> - -<p>Here every one took off his boots, when we again pushed forward -to about two hundred yards from the camp. Another halt -was called to wait for daylight, while Savage went forward to -reconnoitre. He succeeded in getting within ten paces of the -Rancharia, and listened to a conversation among them in which -his name was frequently mentioned. He found that it was a -town of the Kee-chees, but that there were about one hundred -and fifty of the Chow-chil-la warriors with them and several of -the Chu-chan-ces. Had he found only the Kee-chees as he expected, -we were to surround the Rancharia and take all prisoners, -but the presence of so many Chow-chil-las, the most warlike -tribe in California, made a change of plan necessary.</p> - -<p>Daylight by this time began to appear. We had been lying in -our stocking-feet on the ground on the top of a mountain within -a few paces of the snow for more than an hour, almost frozen -by the intense cold, not daring to move or speak a word.</p> - -<p>It was not yet light enough to see the sight of our rifles, when -an Indian’s head was seen rising on the hill before us. For a moment -his eyes wandered, then rested on us, and with a yell like -a Coyote he turned for the Rancharia. Never did I hear before -such an infernal howling, whooping and yelling, as saluted -us then from the throats of about six hundred savages, as they -rushed down the hill into the gim-o-sell bushes below.</p> - -<p>Our huzzahs could, however, hardly have sounded more -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">22</span> -pleasant to them, as when finding we were discovered, we -charged on their town. Fifty rifles cracked almost instantaneously; -a dozen Indians lay groaning before their huts, and many -supposed we had undisturbed possession. Our firing had ceased -and we were looking around for plunder, when a rifle fired from -the bushes below, struck a young Texan, Charley Huston, standing -by my side. He fell with a single groan, and we all supposed -him dead. My first impression was that I was shot, for I plainly -heard the ball strike and almost felt it. This was a surprise -that almost whipped us, for not knowing that the Indians had -fire-arms, we were only expecting arrows. Before that shot was -fired, I had always entertained the idea that I could run about as -fast as common men (and I was one of the first in the charge), -but by the time I had collected my wandering senses, I was nearly -alone; the majority of the party some thirty paces ahead, and -running as if they never intended to stop.</p> - -<p>Captain Burney and Mr. Savage were on top of the hill using -every exertion to make the company halt and form. He had -partly succeeded, when a pistol ball struck a man in the face, he -fell, but raising himself up said, “if we stay here we will be all -shot” and a break was made for the trees.</p> - -<p>Still some few remained in rank and others slowly answered -to the orders to form, when our Second Lieutenant fell mortally -wounded. He was carried off, and every man took his tree.</p> - -<p>The Indians had again possession of their Rancharia, and of -a slight eminence to the left, and were sending showers of bullets -and arrows upon us from three sides. These two points had -to be gained even if it cost half our men. Leaving then, enough -to guard our present position, the rest of us charged on the hill, -took it, stormed the Rancharia, took and burnt it, and returned -to our former position with only one man wounded, Wm. Little, -shot through the lungs.</p> - -<p>The close fighting was now over, for we could not give chase -and were forced to lie behind trees and rocks and pick out such -as exposed themselves. It was about half past ten when, finding -it useless to remain longer, litters were made for the wounded -and we started for camp. Then again we had warm work, for -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">23</span> -all down the pass, the Indians had stationed themselves to fire -on us, forcing us to charge on them several times, for while we -were in plain sight, they were completely hid behind the gim-o-sell -brush.</p> - -<p>In our march back, the rear guard was kept at work about as -hard as at any time during the morning, but not a single man -was hurt, and only one mule was killed.</p> - -<p>We moved our camp that night, six miles lower down, where -we laid the foundations of a fort and left thirty men to guard it -and take care of the wounded.</p> - -<p>The rest of us started below the next morning, after burying -Lieutenant Skeane, who died in the night.</p> - -<p>The Indians acknowledged to eleven men killed, though fifty -killed and wounded would be a moderate estimate. Our -loss was seven wounded—two mortally (as we then supposed, -but Mr. Little finally recovered.—<span class="smcap">Author.</span>)</p> - -<p>The force of the Savages consisted of, as near as could be ascertained, -four hundred warriors. We burned a hundred wigwams, -several tons of dried horse and mule meat, a great number -of bows and arrows, and took six mules.</p> - -<p>Several amusing incidents occurred during the fight and -others of the most heroic bravery on the part of the Indians. -One old squaw was wounded accidentally at the first charge, and -was unable to get off. One of our men was going to finish her -with his knife, but seeing it was a woman he left her. No -sooner had he gone than she picked up a bow and lodged three -arrows in another man. I believe she was not touched after -that.</p> - -<p>The whole body of Indians seemed bent on killing Mr. Savage, -partly because he would not be their chief and lead them against -the whites, and partly because he was, they knew, our greatest -dependence as guide, and their particular dread. To kill him, -many of them sacrificed their own lives. They would come one -at a time and, standing in open ground, send arrows at him -until shot down; and one old chief who used to cook for Savage, -would ask him after every shot where he had hit him. They -would talk to him to find out where he was, and as soon as he -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">24</span> -would answer, the balls and arrows would fly thick around his -head: but he escaped unhurt; but as he said, worse frightened -than he ever was before. He did not fancy such partiality.</p> - -<p>A large party has started on a second expedition, but I believe -I am perfectly satisfied with Indian fighting.</p> - -<p class="author"> -<span class="smcap">T. G. Palmer.</span><br /> -</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p><span class="smcap">Note.</span>—It will have been observed that especial reference has twice -been made to Gim-o-sell brush, a shrub that grows only on warm -slatey soil, on Southern exposures, sought by Indians for winter -quarters, and not on the granite cliffs and mountains of the Yosemite. -I had not thought it necessary to draw upon nature for testimony, -but a new generation has sprung into existence, and the eternal hills -may speak to them.</p></blockquote> - -<p>The mining camp or village of Agua Fria, at the date -of the organization of the battalion, was the county seat -of Mariposa County, and the residence of the Sheriff, -Major James Burney. Whittier’s Hotel was the head-quarters -for enlistment. Finding the number called for -incomplete, while yet in daily expectation of the arrival of -the mustering officer, James D. Savage made a rapid ride -to the San Joaquin diggings, and returned with men enough -to complete the organization.</p> - -<p>We were formally reported for duty, and went into camp -about two miles below Agua Fria, on about the 10th of -Feb., 1851, but when mustered in, the rolls were dated to -include service from Jan. 24th, 1851, the date of the last -order of enlistment. An informal ballot was taken to show -the preference of the men for officers to command us, -Major Burney having previously declined, and when that -had been demonstrated, other aspirants were withdrawn by -their friends, a formal ballot was taken and a regular organization -of three companies completed. The Governor was -duly notified of our proceedings, and in a few days the -commissions were received by our respective officers.</p> - -<p>After a few days in camp on Agua Fria Creek, we moved -down to a camp in the foot hills, known afterwards as -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">25</span> -Lewis Ranch, where we had abundant grass and good water, -and there was established our head-quarters, while waiting -for Col. J. Neely Johnson and the U. S. Indian Commission, -as stated in this chapter.</p> - -<p>After instructions were given us by Col. Johnson, and -the Commission had exhausted its eloquence upon the -“Children of the Great Father at Washington,” and had -started for the Fresno, we were allowed to go in pursuit of -some very sly marauders who had stolen into our camp in -the night, loosened and run off some of our animals, and -taken some others herded in the foot hills, but no extended -operations were allowed, as Major Savage ordered us to be -in readiness for a campaign against the Yosemities, when -the first big storm should come, that would prevent their -escape across the Sierra Nevada. After a few days’ delay -the storm did come with continued violence, as recorded.</p> - -<p>In view of the facts and dates here given how absurd -the statement that we did not go to the Yosemite “until -about the 5th or 6th of May, 1851.” Our idleness in camp -from Feb. 10th and the patient indulgence of the Commissioners, -while waiting for the results of our first operations, -surpass belief.</p> - -<p>And now I reluctantly notice an error of statement by -Mr. Julius N. Pratt in the <i>Century</i> Magazine for December, -1890.</p> - -<p>Had the usual courtesy been extended of allowing me to -see and answer Mr. Pratt’s erroneous impressions in the -same number, I am convinced that he would have kindly -withdrawn his article. I am led to this belief, not alone -from letters received, but from the <i>internal evidence</i> of an -upright character conveyed by Mr. Pratt’s graphic account -of “A Trip to California by way of Panama in 1849,” -in the <i>Century</i> for April 1891.</p> - -<p>The <i>Century</i> Magazine is a most powerful disseminator -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">26</span> -of truth, or error, and though I cannot hope for a complete -vindication through this volume, its readers shall have -the facts of “The Date of Discovery” set before them, “for a -truthful regard for history” and my own self-respect require -it.</p> - -<p>In the <i>Century</i> Magazine for September, 1890, page -795, is an article from my pen which gives the date of -discovery of the Yosemite as March, 1851. Mr. Pratt, in the -December number following, assumes, with “a truthful -regard for history,” that I was in error, and gives about -“January 10th, 1851, as the approximate, if not exact date -of discovery.” Many of the men whom Mr. Pratt supposed -to have been the discoverers, were, or became, my -own comrades. When Mr. Pratt’s article appeared, I at -once sent a reply, but it received no recognition.</p> - -<p>Knowing that Mr. Theodore G. Palmer, of Newark, New -Jersey, was in the only engagement occurring with Indians -in Mariposa county at the time given by Mr. Pratt as the -date of his supposed discovery of the Yosemite, I wrote, -requesting Mr. Palmer to call on the editor of the <i>Century</i> -in my behalf.</p> - -<p>In a letter of January 9th, 1891, Mr. Palmer wrote: “It -is the unexpected which always happens, and your communication -to the <i>Century</i> in response to Pratt’s ‘California,’ -was never received. Mr. Johnson, the associate -editor, received me very pleasantly. He assured me that -although he sent you an advance copy of Pratt’s article, -nothing had been received in the office from you since in -reply, and he presumed you had given up the case in -default.</p> - -<p>“I so completely satisfied him that Mr. Pratt is in -error, that he requested me to express my reasons in the -<i>Century</i>, and to assure you that any communication from -you will always have respectful attention.” -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">27</span></p> - -<p>On January 24th, 1891, Mr. R. W. Johnson, associate -editor, wrote me, saying: “Since telling your friend, Mr. -Palmer, that we had not received an article from you in -reply to Mr. Pratt, we have discovered the manuscript. -We have in type a short note from Mr. Palmer which -will be acceptable to you.”</p> - -<p>A few days after Mr. Johnson kindly sent me the proof. -On March 12th, 1891, Mr. Johnson wrote me: “Mr. Pratt, -after examination of the subject, has written us a short -letter, withdrawing his contention of your claim to the -discovery of the Yosemite, the publication of which we -trust will be satisfactory to you and also to Mr. Palmer. -Will you now tell us whether there is anything in this new -claim that Walker was the discoverer of the Valley?”</p> - -<p>I at once saw that if Mr. Pratt’s retraction was published -there would be no need of the publication of Mr. -Palmer’s communication. About this time a letter -of earlier date, January 28, 1891, was sent me by Mr. -Palmer, received from Mr. Pratt, in which the latter gentleman -says: “I enclose a letter which seems to prove that -the party about which I wrote to the <i>Century</i> was not -your party. One went to the North fork, the other -(yours) to the South.” That statement left no base whatever -for Mr. Pratt’s imaginary “fight at the Yosemite, and -thus of the discovery,” for the North Fork affair was -not a battle at all, but “a scare” on a fork which enters -the Merced river thirty-five miles below the Yosemite, and -as for the battle fought on the 11th of January, 1851, by -Major Burney’s company, in which Mr. Palmer was -engaged, it was not fought on the South fork or in any -valley, but upon a high mountain of the Fresno river.</p> - -<p>Mr. Palmer now felt that his note to <i>The Century</i> was -too long delayed, and wrote asking for its withdrawal or its -publication. Mr. R. U. Johnson replied: “<i>The Century</i> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">28</span> -is made up two months in advance,” but that he intended -inserting it in the April number, &c. Mr. Palmer added -in his letter to me, “I think he will.”</p> - -<p>The matter had now become not only interesting, but -amusing to me; for very soon Mr. Palmer wrote, “whether -my answer to Pratt will be published or not, is doubtful. -I infer (from a letter) that Pratt will not rest quiescent -under my contradiction.” Again Mr. Palmer wrote, enclosing -copy of letter to Mr. Johnson of March 14th, 1891, -answering Mr. Johnson’s Statement, “that Mr. Pratt, while -being convinced of his injustice to Dr. Bunnell and being -ready himself to withdraw his former statement, takes -issue with you as to the identity of the two parties,” and -then Mr. Johnson asks, “would it not be just as well and -more effective if we were simply to print from Mr. Pratt -that he is ‘pleased to withdraw all contention of the claim -made by Dr. Bunnell that he was the original discoverer?’” -Let me here say, in passing, that I never made -such a claim.</p> - -<p>Mr. Palmer very properly objects to becoming the -“scapegoat” for me or any one else, and replying to Mr. -Johnson, says: “Whether my letter is printed or not, is a -matter of entire indifference to me, (personally) <span class="nowrap">...</span> it -was only at your desire, and to please Dr. Bunnell, that I -wrote the little I did. I left you under the impression -that you desired to get at the exact facts and would be glad -to rectify the injustice done to the doctor by the publication -of Mr. Pratt’s communication<span class="nowrap">....</span> I believe -that the publication of my letter would not only gratify -him, but also place the <i>Century</i> right upon the record, -where it surely desires to stand.”</p> - -<p>Mr. Palmer could say no more, but to his great chagrin, -but not surprise, on March 17th, he received a letter of -<i>thanks</i> from the associate editor of the <i>Century</i>, in which -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">29</span> -Mr. Johnson says: “Please accept our thanks for your -letter of the 14th, and for your obliging attitude in the -matter.” Whether any retraction from Mr. Pratt will ever -appear in the <i>Century</i> is now, in view of the long delay, a -matter of great indifference to me.<a id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">7</a></p> - -<p>Now a few facts in regard to the Discovery of the Yosemite -Valley by Capt. Joseph Reddeford Walker, for whom -Walker’s river, Lake and Pass were named. It is not a -new claim, as supposed by Mr. R. U. Johnson, but appears -in the <i>Peoples Encyclopædia</i> and was set up in the <i>San -Jose Pioneer</i> soon after Capt. Walker’s death, and answered -by me in the same paper in 1880.</p> - -<p>I cheerfully concede the fact set forth in the <i>Pioneer</i> -article that, “<i>His were the first white man’s eyes that ever -looked upon the Yosemite</i>” above the valley, and in that -sense, he was certainly the original white discoverer.</p> - -<p>The topography of the country over which the Mono -trail ran, and which was followed by Capt. Walker, did not -admit of his seeing the valley proper. The depression indicating -the valley, and its magnificent surroundings, could -alone have been discovered, and in Capt. Walker’s conversations -with me at various times while encamped between -Coultersville and the Yosemite, he was manly enough to -say so. Upon one occasion I told Capt. Walker that -Ten-ie-ya had said that, “A small party of white men once -crossed the mountains on the north side, but were so guided -as not to see the valley proper.” With a smile the Captain -said: “That was my party, but I was not deceived, for the -lay of the land showed there was a valley below; but we had -become nearly bare-footed, our animals poor, and ourselves -on the verge of starvation, so we followed down the ridge to -Bull Creek, where, killing a deer, we went into camp.” -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">30</span></p> - -<p>The captain remained at his camp near Coultersville for -some weeks, and disappeared as suddenly as he came. He -once expressed a desire to re-visit the region of the Yosemite -in company with me, but could fix no date, as he told me -he was in daily expectation of a government appointment -as guide, which I learned was finally given him.</p> - -<p>Captain Walker was a very eccentric man, well versed -in the vocal and sign languages of the Indians, and went -at his will among them. He may have visited the -Yosemite from his camp before leaving. I was strongly -impressed by the simple and upright character of Captain -Walker, and his mountain comrades spoke in the -highest praise of his ability. Fremont, Kit Carson, Bill -Williams, Alex Gody, Vincenthaler (not Vincent Haler, -as erroneously appeared in the March number of the -<i>Century</i>), Ferguson and others, all agreed in saying that -as a mountain man, Captain Walker had no superior.</p> - -<p>Rev. D. D. Chapin, of Maysville, Kentucky, formerly -rector of Trinity Church, San Jose, and of St. Peter’s -Church, San Francisco, as well as editor of <i>Pacific Churchman</i>, -kindly called my attention to a seeming neglect -of the claim for Captain Walker as the discoverer of the -Yosemite. All that I have ever claimed for myself is, -that I was <i>one</i> of the party of white men who first <i>entered</i> -the Yosemite valley, as far as known to the Indians.</p> - -<p>The fact of my naming the valley cannot be disputed. -The existence of some terribly yawning abyss in the mountains, -guarded at its entrance by a frightful “Rock Chief,” -from whose head rocks would be hurled down upon us if we -attempted to enter that resort of demons, was frequently -described to us by crafty or superstitious Indians. Hence -the greater our surprise upon first beholding a fit abode for -angels of light. As for myself, I freely confess that my -feelings of hostility against the Indians were overcome by -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">31</span> -a sense of exaltation; and although I had suffered losses of -property and friends, the natural right of the Indians to -their inheritance forced itself upon my mind.</p> - -<p>The Mariposa Battalion, was assigned by Governor McDougall -to the duty of keeping in subjection the Indian -tribes on the east side of the San Joaquin and Tulare valleys, -from the Tuolumne river to the Te-hon Pass. As soon -as the battalion was organized, Major Savage began his -preparations for an expedition. There was but little delay -in fitting out. Scouting parties were sent out, but with no -other effect than to cause a general retreat of the Indians -to the mountains, and a cessation of hostilities, except the -annoyances from the small bands of thieving marauders. -No Indians were overtaken by those detachments, though -they were often seen provokingly near. When about to -start on a more extended expedition to the mountains, Major -Savage received an order from the Governor to suspend -hostile operations until he should receive further instructions. -We learned at about the same time through the newspapers, -as well as from the Governor’s messenger, that the -United States Commissioners had arrived in San Francisco. -Their arrival had for some time been expected.</p> - -<p>Up to this period the Indian affairs of California had -not been officially administered upon. Public officers had -not before been appointed to look after the vast landed estates -of the aboriginal proprietors of this territory, and to -provide for their heirs. After some delay, the commissioners -arrived at our camp, which was located about fifteen -miles below Mariposa village. Here the grazing was most -excellent, and for that reason they temporarily established -their head-quarters. These officials were Colonels Barbour -and McKee, and Dr. Woozencroft. They were accompanied -by Col. Neely Johnson, the Governor’s aid, and by a small -detachment of regulars. The commissioners at once proceeded -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">32</span> -to make a thorough investigation into the cause of -the war, and of the condition of affairs generally. Having -secured the services of some of the Mission Indians, these -were sent out with instructions to notify all the tribes that -the commissioners had been directed by the President to -make peace between them and the white settlers; and that -if they would come in, they should be assured protection.</p> - -<p>The so-called Mission Indians were members of different -tribes who had been instructed in the belief of the Catholic -Church, at the old Spanish Missions. These Indians had -not generally taken part in the war against the white settlers, -although some of them, with the hostiles, were the -most treacherous of their race, having acquired the vices -and none of the virtues of their white instructors.</p> - -<p>During this period of preliminaries a few Indians ventured -in to have a talk with the commissioners. They were -very shy and suspicious, for all had been more or less implicated -in the depredations that had been committed. -Presents were lavishly distributed, and assurances were -given that all who came in should be supplied with food -and clothing and other useful things. This policy soon became -generally known to the Indians.</p> - -<p>Among the delegations that visited the commissioners -were Vow-ches-ter,<a id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">8</a> chief of one of the more peaceful bands, -and Russio, a Mission Indian from the Tuolumne, but who -in former years had belonged to some of the San Joaquin -tribes. These chiefs had always appeared friendly, and had -not joined in the hostile attitude assumed by the others. -At the outbreak on the Fresno, Vow-ches-ter had been temporarily -forced into hostilities by the powerful influence of -Jose Rey, and by his desire to secure protection to his relative, -one of Savage’s squaws. But with the fall of Jose -Rey, his influence over Vow-ches-ter declined, and he was -once more left free to show his friendship for the whites. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">33</span> -As for Russio, his intelligent services were secured as peace-maker -and general Indian interpreter by the commissioners, -while a much less competent Mission Indian, Sandino, -served in the capacity of interpreter during expeditions into -the mountains.</p> - -<p>Having been assured of safety, these two chiefs promised -to bring in their people and make peace with the whites. -All that came in promised a cessation, on the part of their -tribes, of the hostilities begun, for which they were rewarded -with presents.</p> - -<p>Vow-chester when questioned, stated “that the mountain -tribes would not listen to any terms of peace involving the -abandonment of their territory; that in the fight near the -North Fork of the San Joaquin, Jose Rey had been badly -wounded and probably would die; that his tribe were very -angry, and would not make peace.” We had up to this -time supposed Jose Rey had been killed at “Battle Mountain.” -Russio said: “The Indians in the deep rocky valley -on the Merced river do not wish for peace, and will not come -in to see the chiefs sent by the great father to make treaties. -They think the white men cannot find their hiding places, -and that therefore they cannot be driven out.” The other -Indians of the party confirmed Russio’s statements. Vow-chester -was the principal spokesman, and he said: “In this -deep valley spoken of by Russio, one Indian is more than -ten white men. The hiding places are many. They will -throw rocks down on the white men, if any should come near -them. The other tribes dare not make war upon them, for -they are lawless like the grizzlies, and as strong. We are -afraid to go to this valley, for there are many witches -there.”</p> - -<p>Some of us did not consider Vow-chester’s promise of -friendship as reliable. We regarded him as one of the hostile -mountain Indians. He, however, was never again engaged -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">34</span> -in hostilities against the whites. I afterwards learned -that Vow-chester and Savage had once professed a strong -friendship for each other. The trader at that time had -taken a bride who was closely allied to the chief. After the -destruction of Savage’s trading posts, in which Vow-chester -had taken an active part in procuring a forcible divorce -and division of property (though the murders were ascribed -to the Chow-chillas), all forms of friendship or relationship -had ceased. At this interview no sign of recognition -passed. After listening to this parley between the Commissioners -and the Indians, I asked Major Savage, who had -been acting as interpreter, if he had ever been into the deep -valley the Indians had been speaking of. He at first replied -that he had, but on a subsequent conversation he corrected -this statement by saying, “Last year while I was -located at the mouth of the South Fork of the Merced, I was -attacked by the Yosemites, but with the Indian miners I -had in my employ, drove them off, and followed some of -them up the Merced river into a canon, which I supposed -led to their stronghold, as the Indians then with me said it -was not a safe place to go into. From the appearance of -this rocky gorge I had no difficulty in believing them. -Fearing an ambush, I did not follow them. It was on this -account that I changed my location to Mariposa creek. I -would like to get into the den of the thieving murderers. -If ever I have a chance I will smoke out the Grizzly Bears -(the Yosemites) from their holes, where they are thought -to be so secure.”</p> - -<p>No peace messengers came in from the mountain Indians, -who continued to annoy the settlers with their depredations, -thieving from the miner’s camps, and stealing horses and -mules from the ranches. While we were awaiting the action -of the commissioners, we lost some horses and mules, -which were stolen from the vicinity of our camp. After -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">35</span> -the commissioners had decided upon the measures to be -adopted, our battalion was ordered into line and we were -then officially informed by Col. Johnson, that our operations -as a military organization, would henceforth be under -the direction of the United States Commissioners. That -by their order we were now assigned to the duty of subduing -such Indian tribes as could not otherwise be induced to -make treaties with them, and at once cease hostilities and -depredations. “Your officers will make all reports to the -commissioners. Your orders and instructions will hereafter -be issued by them.” The colonel then complimented -the soldierly appearance of the battalion (very customary -in later years) and then said: “While I do not hesitate to -denounce the Indians for the murders and robberies committed -by them, we should not forget that there may perhaps -be circumstances which, if taken into consideration, -might to some extent excuse their hostility to the whites. -They probably feel that they themselves are the aggrieved -party, looking upon us as trespassers upon their territory, -invaders of their country, and seeking to dispossess them -of their homes. It may be, they class us with the Spanish -invaders of Mexico and California, whose cruelties in civilizing -and christianizing them are still traditionally fresh in -their memories,” etc. In conclusion the colonel said: “As -I am about to leave, I will now bid you ‘good bye,’ with -the hope that your actions will be in harmony with the -wishes of the commissioners, and that in the performance -of your duties, you will in all cases observe mercy where -severity is not justly demanded.”</p> - -<p>Colonel Johnson gave us a very excellent little speech; -but at that time we were not fully impressed with the justness -of the remarks which had been made from kindness -of heart and sincerely humane feelings. Many of us had -lost—some heavily—by the depredations of the Indians. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">36</span> -Friends and relatives had been victims of their atrocities. -Murders and robberies had been committed without provocations -then discernible to us. Many of us would then have -been willing to adopt the methods of the old Spanish missionaries, -who, it was said, sometimes brought in their converts -with the lasso. However, these orders and the speech from -Col. Johnson were received with cheers by the more impatient -and impulsive of the volunteers, who preferred active -service to the comparative quiet of the camp.</p> - -<p>The commissioners selected a reservation on the Fresno, -near the foot-hills, about eighteen or twenty miles from our -camp, to which the Indian tribes with whom treaties had -been made were to be removed, and at this locality the commissioners -also established a camp, as head-quarters.</p> - -<p>The deliberative action on the part of the commissioners, -who were very desirous of having the Indians voluntarily -come in to make treaties with them, delayed any active co-operation -on the part of our battalion until the winter rains -had fully set in. Our first extended expedition to the mountains -was made during the prevailing storms of the vernal -equinox, although detachments had previously made excursions -into the country bordering upon the Sierras. This region, -like parts of Virginia, proved impassable to a mounted -force during the wet season, and our operations were confined -to a limited area.</p> - -<p>It was at last decided that more extended operations -were necessary to bring in the mountain tribes. Although -there was no longer unity of action among them, they refused -to leave their retreats, and had become even suspicious -of each other. The defeat of Jose Rey, and the desertion -of the tribes who had made, or had promised to make, treaties -with the commissioners, and had ceased from all hostile -demonstrations, had caused jealousies and discontent to -divide even the most turbulent bands. For the extended -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">37</span> -operations of the battalion among the mountains, it was -decided that Major Savage, with the companies of Captains -Boling and Dill, should make expeditions which would require -him to traverse the regions of the San Joaquin and -Merced rivers. Captain Kuy-ken-dall with his company -were to be detached to operate for the same purpose in the -regions of the Kings and Kah-we-ah rivers. The Indians -captured were to be escorted to the commissioners’ camp -on the Fresno. Notwithstanding a storm was gathering, -our preparations were cheerfully made, and when the order -to “form into line” was given, it was obeyed with alacrity. -No “bugle call” announced orders to us; the “details” -were made quietly, and we as quietly assembled. Promptly -as the word of command “mount,” was given, every -saddle was filled. With “forward march,” we naturally -filed off into the order of march so readily assumed by -mounted frontiersmen while traveling on a trail.</p> - -<p>We left our camp as quietly and as orderly as such an undisciplined -body could be expected to move, but Major Savage -said that we must all learn to be as still as Indians, or -we would never find them.</p> - -<p>This battalion was a body of hardy, resolute pioneers. -Many of them had seen service, and had fought their way -against the Indians across the plains; some had served in -the war with Mexico and been under military discipline.</p> - -<p>Although ununiformed, they were well armed, and their -similarities of dress and accoutrements, gave them a general -military appearance.</p> - -<p>The temperature was mild and agreeable at our camp -near the plain, but we began to encounter storms of cold -rain as we reached the more elevated localities.</p> - -<p>Major Savage being aware that rain on the foot-hills and -plain at that season of the year indicated snow higher up, -sent forward scouts to intercept such parties as might attempt -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">38</span> -to escape, but the storm continued to rage with such -violence as to render this order useless, and we found the -scouts awaiting us at the foot of a mountain known as the -Black Ridge. This ridge is a spur of the Sierra Nevada. -It separates the Mariposa, Chow-chilla, Fresno and San -Joaquin rivers on the south from the Merced on the north. -While halting for a rest, and sipping his coffee, Savage expressed -an earnest desire to capture the village he had -ascertained to be located over the ridge on the south fork -of the Merced. He was of the opinion that if it could be -reached without their discovery of us, we should have no -fighting to do there, as that band would surrender at once -rather than endanger their women and children, who would -be unable to escape through the snow. Toward this village -we therefore marched as rapidly as the nature of the steep -and snow-obstructed trail would permit us to travel. An -Indian that answered to the name of “Bob,” an <i>attaché</i> of -the Major, serving as guide. Climbing up this steep black -mountain, we soon reached the region of snow, which at -the summit, was fully four feet deep, though the cold was -not intense. By this time, night was upon us. The trail -led over the ridge at a point where its tabled summit was -wooded with a forest of pines, cedars and firs, so dense as -almost to exclude the light of the stars that now and then -appeared struggling through the gloom.</p> - -<p>We laboriously followed our guide and file leader, but -this trail was so indistinctly seen in the darkness, that at intervals -deep mutterings would be heard from some drowsy -rider who missed the beaten path. As we commenced the -descent of the ridge, the expressions became more forcible -than polite when some unlucky ones found themselves -floundering in the snow below the uncertain trail. If left -to their own sagacity, a horse or mule will follow its leader; -but if a self-willed rider insists upon his own judgment, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">39</span> -the poor animal has not only to suffer the extra fatigue incurred -by a mis-step, but also the punishment of the spur, and -hear the explosive maledictions of the master. The irritating -responses of his comrades that “another fool has been -discovered,” was not then calculated to sooth the wrath that -was then let loose.</p> - -<p>With short halts and repeated burrowings in the deep, -damp snow, the South Fork of the Merced was at length -reached about a mile below what is now known as -Clark’s, or Wah-wo-na, from Wah-ha wo-na, a Big Tree. -We here made a halt, and our weary animals were provided -with some barley, for the snow was here over a foot deep. -The major announced that it was but a short distance below -to the Indian village, and called for volunteers to accompany -him—it might be for a fight or perhaps only a foot-race—circumstances -would determine which. The major’s -call was promptly and fully answered, although all were -much fatigued with the tedious night march. The animals -were left, and a sufficient number was selected to remain as -a reserve force and camp guard. At daylight we filed away -on foot to our destination, following the major who was -guided by “Bob.” -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">40</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>March Down the South Fork—Capture of an Indian Village—Hungry -Men—An able Surgeon—Snow Storms—Visit of Ten-ie-ya, Chief of -the Yosemites—Commander’s Dilemma—Unique Manner of Extrication—Approaching -the Valley—First View—Sensations Experienced—A -Lofty Flight Brought Down.</p></blockquote> - -<p>There was a very passable trail for horses leading down -the right bank of the river, but it was overlooked on the -left bank by the Indian village, which was situated on a -high point at a curve in the river that commanded an extensive -view up and down. To avoid being seen, the Major led -us along down the left bank, where we were compelled, at -times, to wade into the rushing torrent to avoid the precipitous -and slippery rocks, which, in places, dipped into the -stream. Occasionally, from a stumble, or from the deceptive -depths of the clear mountain stream, an unfortunate -one was immersed in the icy fluid, which seemed colder -than the snow-baths of the mountain. With every precaution, -some became victims to these mischances, and gave -vent to their emotions, when suddenly immersed, by hoarse -curses, which could be heard above the splash and roar of -the noisy water. These men (headed by Surgeon Bronson) -chilled and benumbed, were sent back to the camp to “dry -their ammunition.”(?) After passing this locality—our -march thus far having alternated in snow and water—we arrived, -without being discovered, in sight of the smoke of -their camp-fires, where we halted for a short rest. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">41</span></p> - -<p>Major Savage gave some orders to Captain Boling which -were not then understood by me. On again resuming our -march, the Major, with “Bob,” started at a rapid step, while -the others maintained a slow gait.</p> - -<p>I followed the Major as I had been accustomed during the -march. I soon heard an <i>audible smile</i>, evidently at my expense. -I comprehended that I had somehow “sold” myself, -but as the Major said nothing, I continued my march. -I observed a pleased expression in the Major’s countenance, -and a twinkle of his eyes when he glanced back at me as if -he enjoyed the fun of the “boys” behind us, while he -increased his speed to an Indian jog-trot. I determined to -appear as unconscious, as innocent of my blunder, and accommodate -my gait to his movements. My pride or vanity -was touched, and I kept at his heels as he left the trot for a -more rapid motion. After a run of a mile or more, we -reached the top of a narrow ridge which overlooked the village. -The Major here cast a side glance at me as he threw -himself on the ground, saying: “I always prided myself on -my endurance, but somehow this morning my bottom fails -me.” As quietly as I could I remarked that he had probably -been traveling faster than he was aware of, as “Bob” -must be some way behind us. After a short scrutiny of my -unconcerned innocence, he burst into a low laugh and said: -“Bunnell, you play it well, and you have beaten me at a -game of my own choosing. I have tested your endurance, -however; such qualifications are really valuable in our present -business.” He then told me as I seated myself near -him, that he saw I had not understood the order, and had -increased his speed, thinking I would drop back and wait -for the others to come up, as he did not wish to order me -back, although he had preferred to make this scout alone -with “Bob,” as they were both acquainted with the band -and the region they occupy. While we were resting “Bob” -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">42</span> -came up. The Major gave him some direction in an Indian -dialect I did not understand, and he moved on to an adjoining -thicket, while the Major and myself crawled to the -shelter of a bunch of blue brush (California lilac), just -above where we had halted.</p> - -<p>After obtaining the desired information without being -seen, Bob was sent back to Captain Boling to “hurry him -up.” While awaiting the arrival of our command, I, in -answer to his inquiries, informed the Major that I had -come to Detroit, Michigan, in 1833, when it was but little -more than a frontier village; that the Indians annually -assembled there and at Malden, Canada, to receive their -annuities. At that time, being but nine years of age, and -related to Indian traders, I was brought in contact with -their customers, and soon learned their language, habits and -character, which all subsequent attempts to civilize me had -failed entirely to eradicate. This statement evidently -pleased the Major, and finding me familiar with frontier -life, he continued his conversation, and I soon learned that -I was acquainted with some of his friends in the Northwest. -I have related this incident because it was the beginning -of an intimate friendship which ever afterward existed -between us.</p> - -<p>On the arrival of Captains Boling and Dill with their -respective companies, we were deployed into skirmish line, -and advanced toward the encampment without any effort -at concealment. On discovering us the Indians hurriedly -ran to and fro, as if uncertain what course to pursue. Seeing -an unknown force approaching, they threw up their -hands in token of submission, crying out at the same time -in Spanish, “<i>Pace! pace!</i>” (peace! peace!) We were at -once ordered to halt while Major Savage went forward to -arrange for the surrender. The Major was at once recognized -and cordially received by such of the band as he desired to -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">43</span> -confer with officially. We found the village to be that of -Pon-wat-chee, a chief of the Noot-chü tribe, whose people -had formerly worked for Savage under direction of Cow-chit-ty, -his brother, and from whose tribe Savage had taken -Ee-e-ke-no, one of his former wives. The chief professed -still to entertain feelings of friendship for Savage, saying that -he was now willing to obey his counsels. Savage, in response, -lost no time in preliminary affairs.</p> - -<p>He at once told the chief the object of the expedition, and -his requirements. His terms were promptly agreed to, and -before we had time to examine the captives or their wigwams, -they had commenced packing their supplies and removing -their property from their bark huts. This done, -the torch was applied by the Indians themselves, in token -of their sincerity in removing to the Reservations on the -Fresno.</p> - -<p>By the Major’s orders they had at once commenced their -preparations for removal to a rendezvous, which he had selected -nearly opposite this encampment, which was accessible -to horses. This plateau was also the location designated -for our camp. This camp was afterwards used by an -employé at the agency, whose name was Bishop, and was -known as Bishop’s Camp. It is situated on an elevated -table, on the right side of the valley of the South Fork.</p> - -<p>While the Indians were preparing for their transfer to -the place selected, our tired and hungry men began to feel -the need of rest and refreshments. We had traveled a -much longer distance since the morning before than had -been estimated in expectation of a halt, and many of the -men had not tasted food since the day before.</p> - -<p>John Hankin told Major Savage that if a roast dog could -be procured, he would esteem it an especial favor. Bob -McKee thought this a capital time to learn to eat acorn -bread, but after trying some set before him by “a young -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">44</span> -and accomplished squaw,” as the Major cynically termed -her, concluded he was not yet hungry enough for its enjoyment.</p> - -<p>A call was made for volunteers to go back to bring up -the reserve and supplies, but the service was not very -promptly accepted. McKee, myself and two others, however, -offered to go with the order to move down to the selected -rendezvous. Three Indians volunteered to go with us -as guides; one will seldom serve alone. We found the trail -on the right bank less laborious to travel than was expected, -for the snow had mostly disappeared from the loose, sandy -soil, which upon this side of the river has a southwesterly -exposure. On our arrival in camp preparations were begun to -obey the order of the Major. While coffee was being prepared -Doctor Bronson wisely prescribed and most skillfully administered -to us a refreshing draught of “<i>Aqua Ardente</i>.”</p> - -<p>After a hasty <i>breakfast</i>, we took to our saddles, and taking -a supply of biscuits and cold meat, left the train and -arrived at the new camp ground just as our hungry comrades -came up from the Indian village. The scanty supplies, -carried on our saddles, were thankfully received and -speedily disposed of. The Indians had not yet crossed the -river. We found that we had traveled about twelve miles, -while our comrades and the captives had accomplished only -three.</p> - -<p>From this camp, established as our headquarters, or as a -base of operations while in this vicinity, Major Savage -sent Indian runners to the bands who were supposed to be -hiding in the mountains. These messengers were instructed -to assure all the Indians that if they would go and make -treaties with the commissioners, they would there be furnished -with food and clothing, and receive protection, but -if they did not come in, he should make war upon them -until he destroyed them all. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">45</span></p> - -<p>Pon-wat-chee had told the Major when his own village -was captured, that a small band of Po-ho-no-chees were encamped -on the sunny slope of the divide of the Merced, -and he having at once dispatched a runner to them, they -began to come into camp. This circumstance afforded encouragement -to the Major, but Pon-wat-chee was not entirely -sanguine of success with the Yosemites, though he -told the Major that if the snow continued deep they could -not escape.</p> - -<p>At first but few Indians came in, and these were very cautious—dodging -behind rocks and trees, as if fearful we would -not recognize their friendly signals.</p> - -<p>Being fully assured by those who had already come in, of -friendly treatment, all soon came in who were in our immediate -vicinity. None of the Yosemites had responded to -the general message sent. Upon a special envoy being sent -to the chief, he appeared the next day in person. He came -alone, and stood in dignified silence before one of the guard, -until motioned to enter camp. He was immediately recognized -by Pon-wat-chee as Ten-ie-ya, the old chief of the -Yosemites, and was kindly cared for—being well supplied -with food—after which, with the aid of the other Indians, -the Major informed him of the wishes of the commissioners. -The old sachem was very suspicious of Savage, and -feared he was taking this method of getting the Yosemites -into his power for the purpose of revenging his personal -wrongs. Savage told him that if he would go to the -commissioners and make a treaty of peace with them, as the -other Indians were going to do, there would be no more -war. Ten-ie-ya cautiously inquired as to the object of taking -all the Indians to the plains of the San Joaquin valley, -and said: “My people do not want anything from the ‘Great -Father’ you tell me about. The Great Spirit is our father, -and he has always supplied us with all we need. We do -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">46</span> -not want anything from white men. Our women are able -to do our work. Go, then; let us remain in the mountains -where we were born; where the ashes of our fathers have -been given to the winds. I have said enough!”</p> - -<p>This was abruptly answered by Savage, in Indian dialect -and gestures: “If you and your people have all you desire, -why do you steal our horses and mules? Why do you rob -the miners’ camps? Why do you murder the white men, -and plunder and burn their houses?”</p> - -<p>Ten-ie-ya sat silent for some time; it was evident he understood -what Savage had said, for he replied: “My young -men have sometimes taken horses and mules from the -whites. It was wrong for them to do so. It is not wrong -to take the property of enemies, who have wronged my -people. My young men believed the white gold-diggers -were our enemies; we now know they are not, and we will -be glad to live in peace with them. We will stay here and -be friends. My people do not want to go to the plains. -The tribes who go there are some of them very bad. They -will make war on my people. We cannot live on the -plains with them. Here we can defend ourselves against -them.”</p> - -<p>In reply to this Savage very deliberately and firmly said: -“Your people must go to the Commissioners and make -terms with them. If they do not, your young men will -again steal our horses, your people will again kill and plunder -the whites. It was your people who robbed my stores, -burned my houses, and murdered my men. If they do not -make a treaty, your whole tribe will be destroyed, not one -of them will be left alive.” At this vigorous ending of the -Major’s speech, the old chief replied: “It is useless to talk -to you about who destroyed your property and killed your -people. If the Chow-chillas do not boast of it, they are -cowards, for they led us on. I am old and you can kill me -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">47</span> -if you will, but what use to lie to you who know more than -all the Indians, and can beat them in their big hunts of -deer and bear. Therefore I will not lie to you, but promise -that if allowed to return to my people I will bring them in.” -He was allowed to go. The next day he came back, and -said his people would soon come to our camp; that when -he had told them they could come with safety they were -willing to go and make a treaty with the men sent by the -“Great Father,” who was so good and rich. Another day -passed, but no Indians made their appearance from the -“deep valley,” spoken of so frequently by those at our camp. -The old chief said the snow was so deep that they could not -travel fast, that his village was so far down (gesticulating, -by way of illustration, with his hands) that when the snow -was deep on the mountains they would be a long time climbing -out of it. As we were at the time having another storm -Ten-ie-ya’s explanation was accepted, but was closely watched.</p> - -<p>The next day passed without their coming, although the -snow storm had ceased during the night before. It was -then decided that it would be necessary to go to the village -of the Yosemites, and bring them in; and in case they -could not be found there, to follow to their hiding-places in -the deep cañon, so often represented as such a dangerous -locality. Ten-ie-ya was questioned as to the route and the -time it would take his people to come in; and when he -learned we were going to his village, he represented that -the snow was so deep that the horses could not go through it. -He also stated that the rocks were so steep that our horses -could not climb out of the valley if they should go into it. -Captain Boling caused Ten-ie-ya’s statements to be made -known to his men. It was customary in all of our expeditions -where the force was divided, to call for volunteers. The men -were accordingly drawn up into line, and the call made that -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">48</span> -all who wished to go to the village of the Yosemites were to -step three paces to the front. When the order to advance was -given, to the surprise of Captains Boling and Dill, each company -moved in line as if on parade. The entire body had volunteered. -As a camp-guard was necessary, a call was then -made for volunteers for this duty. When the word “march” -was again repeated, but a limited number stepped to the -front. Captain Boling, with a smile on his good-natured -face, said: “A camp-guard will have to be provided in some -way. I honor the sentiment that prompted you all to volunteer -for the exploration, and I also appreciate the sacrifice -made by those who are willing to stay; but these are too -few. Our baggage, supplies and Indian captives must be -well guarded. I endeavored to make the choice of duty -voluntary, by representing the difficulties that might reasonably -be expected, and thus secure those best suited for -the respective duty of field and camp. I am baffled, but not -defeated, for I have another test of your fitness; it is a foot-race. -You know it has been represented to us by Ten-ie-ya -that the route to his village is an extremely difficult one, and -impassable for our horses. It may not be true, but it will -be prudent to select men for the expedition who have proved -their endurance and fleetness. I now propose that you decide -what I have found so difficult.”</p> - -<p>This proposition was received with shouts of laughter, and -the arrangements for the contest were at once commenced, -as it afforded a source of frolicsome amusement. A hundred -yards were paced off, and the goal conspicuously -marked. A distance line was to determine who should constitute -the camp-guard. I doubt if such boisterous hilarity -and almost boyish merriment was ever before seen while -making a detail from any military organization.</p> - -<p>The Indians were at first somewhat alarmed at the noisy -preparations, and began to be fearful of their safety, but on -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">49</span> -learning the cause of the excitement, they, too, became interested -in the proceedings, and expressed a desire to participate -in the race. Two or three were allowed to join in -as proxies for the <i>“heavy ones”</i> who concluded not to run, -though willing to pay the young Indians to represent them -in the race, provided they came out ahead. One young Indian -did beat every man, except Bob McKee, for whom he -manifested great admiration. Many anxious ones ran bare-footed -in the snow. The Indian’s motions were not impeded -by any civilized garments; a modest waist cloth was all -they had on. In subsequent races, after a long rest, several -of our men demonstrated that their racing powers were superior -to the fastest of the Indian runners. Captain Boling’s -racing scheme brought out the strong points of the -runners. Enough were distanced in both companies to secure -an ample camp-guard. The envious guard raised the -point that this method of detail was simply a proof of legs, -not brains. It was reported in camp that Captain Boling -had kept a record of the speedy ones which he had filed away -for future use in cases where fleetness of foot would be required -for extra duties.</p> - -<p>Preparations were made for an early start the next morning. -The officer to be left in charge of the camp was instructed -to allow the Indians all liberty consistent with -<i>safety</i>, and to exercise no personal restraint over them unless -there should be an evident attempt to leave in a body; -when, of course, any movement of the kind was to be defeated. -The Major said: “I deem the presence of the women -and children a sufficient hostage for the peaceful conduct -of the men, but do not allow <i>any of them</i> to enter our -tents, or we may lose possession.”</p> - -<p>This last injunction was to guard against annoyance from -vermin. The <i>pediculi</i> of the Indian race have an especial -affinity for them. White people have but little to fear from -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">50</span> -Indian vermin except the temporary annoyance that is experienced -from some species that infest animals and birds. -They do not find the transfer congenial, and soon disappear. -This fact may not be generally known, but I believe it to -be a normal arrangement for the exclusive <i>comfort</i> of the -Indian.</p> - -<p>To me this is quite suggestive, when considered as evidence -of a diversity of origin of the races. I have been -very particular in my observations in this matter, and have -compared my own with the experiences of others, and have -been led to the conclusion that each separate race has parasites -indigenous to that race, although the genus may be -common to each.</p> - -<p>This reluctant adaptability of these “entomological inconveniences” -saved us from one of the curses of the ancient -Egyptians, when contact was unavoidable.</p> - -<p>As no information had been received from the camp of -the Yosemites, after an early breakfast, the order was passed -to “fall in,” and when the order “march” was given, we -moved off in single file, Savage leading, with Ten-ie-ya as -guide.</p> - -<p>From the length of time taken by the chief to go and -return from his encampment, it was supposed that with -horses, and an early start, we should be able to go and return -the same day, if for any cause it should be deemed -desirable, although sufficient supplies were taken, in case -of a longer delay.</p> - -<p>While ascending to the divide between the South Fork -and the main Merced we found but little snow, but at the -divide, and beyond, it was from three to five feet in depth, -and in places much deeper. The sight of this somewhat -cooled our ardor, but none asked for a “<i>furlough</i>.”</p> - -<p>To somewhat equalize the laborious duties of making a -trail, each man was required to take his turn in front. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">51</span> -The leader of the column was frequently changed; no horse -or mule could long endure the fatigue without relief. To effect -this, the tired leader dropped out of line, resigning his -position to his followers, taking a place in the rear, on the -beaten trail, exemplifying, that “the first shall be last, and -the last shall be first.” The snow packed readily, so that a -very comfortable trail was left in the rear of our column.</p> - -<p>Old Ten-ie-ya relaxed the rigidity of his bronze features, -in admiration of our method of making a trail, and assured -us, that, notwithstanding the depth of snow, we would soon -reach his village. We had in our imaginations pictured -it as in some deep rocky canon in the mountains.</p> - -<p>While in camp the frantic efforts of the old chief to describe -the location to Major Savage, had resulted in the -unanimous verdict among the “boys,” who were observing -him, that “it must be a devil of a place.” Feeling encouraged -by the hope that we should soon arrive at the residences -of his Satanic majesty’s subjects, we wallowed on, alternately -becoming the object of a joke, as we in turn were extricated -from the drifts. When we had traversed a little -more than half the distance, as was afterwards proved, we -met the Yosemites on their way to our rendezvous on the -South Fork.</p> - -<p>As they filed past us, the major took account of their -number, which was but seventy-two. As they reached our -beaten trail, satisfaction was variously expressed, by grunts -from the men, by the low rippling laughter from the squaws, -and by the children clapping their hands in glee at the -sight. On being asked where the others of his band were, -the old Sachem said, “This is all of my people that are willing -to go with me to the plains. Many that have been -with me are from other tribes. They have taken wives -from my band; all have gone with their wives and children -to the Tuolumne and to the Monos.” Savage told Ten-ie-ya -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">52</span> -that he was telling him that which was not true. The -Indians could not cross the mountains in the deep snow, -neither could they go over the divide of the Tuolumne. -That he knew they were still at his village or in hiding -places near it. Ten-ie-ya assured the major he was telling -him the truth, and in a very solemn manner declared that -none of his band had been left behind—that all had gone -before his people had left. His people had not started -before because of the snow storm.</p> - -<p>With a belief that but a small part of Ten-ie-ya’s band -was with this party, Major Savage decided to go on to the -Indian village and ascertain if any others could be found or -traces of them discovered. This decision was a satisfactory -one and met with a hearty approval as it was reported -along the line.</p> - -<p>This tribe had been estimated by Pon-wat-chee and Cow-chit-tee, -as numbering more than two hundred; as about -that number usually congregated when they met together -to “<i>cache</i>” their acorns in the valley, or for a grand annual -hunt and drive of game; a custom which secured an -abundant supply for the feast that followed.</p> - -<p>At other times they were scattered in bands on the sunny -slopes of the ridges, and in the mountain glens. Ten-ie-ya -had been an unwilling guide thus far, and Major Savage -said to him: “You may return to camp with your people, -and I will take one of your young men with me. There -are but few of your people here. Your tribe is large. I -am going to your village to see your people, who will not -come with you. They <i>will</i> come with me if I find -them.”</p> - -<p>Savage then selected one of the young “braves” to accompany -him. Ten-ie-ya replied, as the young Indian -stepped forward by his direction, “I will go with my people; -my young man shall go with you to my village. You will -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">53</span> -not find any people there. I do not know where they are. -My tribe is small—not large, as the white chief has said. -The Pai-utes and Mono’s are all gone. Many of the people -with my tribe are from western tribes that have come to -me and do not wish to return. If they go to the plains and -are seen, they will be killed by the friends of those with -whom they had quarreled. I have talked with my people -and told them I was going to see the white chiefs sent to -make peace. I was told that I was growing old, and it was -well that I should go, but that young and strong men can -find plenty in the mountains; therefore why should they -go? to be yarded like horses and cattle. My heart has been -sore since that talk, but I am now willing to go, for it is -best for my people that I do so.”</p> - -<p>The Major listened to the old Indian’s volubility for -awhile, but interrupted him with a cheering “Forward -march!” at which the impatient command moved briskly -forward over the now partly broken trail, leaving the chief -alone, as his people had already gone on.</p> - -<p>We found the traveling much less laborious than before, -and it seemed but a short time after we left the Indians -before we suddenly came in full view of the valley in -which was the village, or rather the encampments of -the Yosemities. The immensity of rock I had seen in my -vision on the Old Bear Valley trail from Ridley’s Ferry -was here presented to my astonished gaze. The mystery -of that scene was here disclosed. My awe was increased by -this nearer view. The face of the immense cliff was shadowed -by the declining sun; its outlines only had been seen -at a distance. This towering mass</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Fools our fond gaze, and greatest of the great,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Defies at first our Nature’s littleness,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Till, growing with (to) its growth, we thus dilate<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Our spirits to the size of that they contemplate.”<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">54</span></p> - -<p>That stupendous cliff is now known as “El Capitan” -(the Captain), and the plateau from which we had our first -view of the valley, as Mount Beatitude.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="i_054" src="images/i_054.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">EL CAPITAN.</p> - -<p class="copy">(3,300 feet in height.)</p></div> - -<p>It has been said that “it is not easy to describe in words -the precise impressions which -great objects make upon us.” -I cannot describe how completely -I realized this truth. -None but those who have visited -this most wonderful valley, -can even imagine the feelings -with which I looked upon -the view that was there presented. -The grandeur of the -scene was but softened by the -haze that hung over the valley,—light -as gossamer—and -by the clouds which partially -dimmed the higher cliffs and -mountains. This obscurity of -vision but increased the awe -with which I beheld it, and as -I looked, a peculiar exalted -sensation seemed to fill my whole -being, and I found my eyes in tears -with emotion.</p> - -<p>During many subsequent visits to -this locality, this sensation was never -again so fully aroused. It is probable -that the shadows fast clothing all -before me, and the vapory clouds -at the head of the valley, leaving the view beyond still undefined, -gave a weirdness to the scene, that made it so impressive; -and the conviction that it was utterly indescribable -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">55</span> -added strength to the emotion. It is not possible for the -same intensity of feeling to be aroused more than once by -the same object, although I never looked upon these scenes -except with wonder and admiration.</p> - -<p>Richardson, in his admirable work, “Beyond the Mississippi,” -says: “See Yosemite and die! I shall not attempt -to describe it; the subject is too large and my capacity too -small<span class="nowrap">....</span> Painfully at first these stupendous walls -confuse the mind. By degrees, day after day, the sight of -them clears it, until at last one receives a just impression -of their solemn immensity<span class="nowrap">....</span> Volumes ought to -be and will be written about it.”</p> - -<p>Mr. Richardson has expressed in graphic language the -impressions produced upon nearly all who for the first time -behold this wonderful valley. The public has now, to a certain -degree, been prepared for these scenes.</p> - -<p>They are educated by the descriptions, sketches, photographs -and masterly paintings of Hill and Bierstadt; -whereas, on our first visit, our imagination had been misled -by the descriptive misrepresentations of savages, whose -prime object was to keep us from their safe retreat, until -we had expected to see some terrible abyss. The reality so -little resembled the picture of imagination, that my astonishment -was the more overpowering.</p> - -<p>To obtain a more distinct and <i>quiet</i> view, I had left the -trail and my horse and wallowed through the snow alone to -a projecting granite rock. So interested was I in the scene -before me, that I did not observe that my comrades had all -moved on, and that I would soon be left indeed alone. My -situation attracted the attention of Major Savage,—who -was riding in rear of column,—who hailed me from the -trail below with, “you had better wake up from that dream -up there, or you may lose your hair; I have no faith in -Ten-ie-ya’s statement that there are no Indians about here. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">56</span> -We had better be moving; some of the murdering devils -may be lurking along this trail to pick off stragglers.” I -hurriedly joined the Major on the descent, and as other -views presented themselves, I said with some enthusiasm, -“If my hair is now required, I can depart in peace, -for I have here seen the power and glory of a Supreme -being; the majesty of His handy-work is in that ‘Testimony -of the Rocks.’ That mute appeal—pointing to El -Capitan—illustrates it, with more convincing eloquence -than can the most powerful arguments of surpliced priests.” -“Hold up, Doc! you are soaring too high for me; and perhaps -for yourself. This is rough riding; we had better -mind this devilish trail, or we shall go <i>soaring</i> over some -of these slippery rocks.” We, however, made the descent -in safety. When we overtook the others, we found blazing -fires started, and preparations commenced to provide supper -for the hungry command; while the light-hearted “boys” -were indulging their tired horses with the abundant grass -found on the meadow near by, which was but lightly covered -with snow.</p> - -<p>Mr. J. M. Hutchings has recently cited Elliott’s History -of Fresno County and dispatches from Major Savage as -proof that it was May 5th or 6th, 1851, that the Mariposa -Battalion first entered the Yosemite. As a matter of -fact, our adjutant was not with us when the discovery was -made in March, nor was there ever but two companies -in the Yosemite at any time, Boling’s and part of Dill’s. -Captain Dill himself was detailed for duty at the Fresno, -after the expedition in March, as was also the adjutant. -In making out his report, Mr. Lewis must have ignored -the first entry of the valley by the few men who discovered -it, and made his first entry to appear as the date of the -discovery. This may or may not have been done to give -importance to the operations of the battalion. I have -never seen the report. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">57</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Naming the Valley—Signification and Origin of the Word—Its proper -Pronunciation: Yo-sem-i-ty—Mr. Hutchings and Yo-Ham-i-te—His -Restoration of Yo-sem-i-te.</p></blockquote> - -<p>My devout astonishment at the supreme grandeur of the -scenery by which I was surrounded, continued to engross -my mind. The warmth of the fires and preparations for -supper, however, awakened in me other sensations, which -rapidly dissipated my excitement. As we rode up, Major -Savage remarked to Capt. Boling, “We had better move on -up, and hunt out the “Grizzlies” before we go into camp -for the night. We shall yet have considerable time to look -about this hole before dark.” Captain Boling then reported -that the young guide had halted here, and poured out -a volley of Indian lingo which no one could understand, -and had given a negative shake of his head when the course -was pointed out, and signs were made for him to move on. -The Captain, not comprehending this performance, had followed -the trail of the Indians to the bank of the stream -near by, but had not ventured further, thinking it best to -wait for Major Savage to come up. After a few inquiries, -the Major said there was a ford below, where the Indians -crossed the Merced; and that he would go with the guide -and examine it. Major Savage and Captains Boling and -Dill then started down to the crossing. They soon returned, -and we were ordered to arrange our camp for the -night. Captain Boling said the Merced was too high to -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">58</span> -ford. The river had swollen during the day from the melting -of the snow, but would fall again by morning.</p> - -<p>The guide had told the Major there was no other way up -the valley, as it was impossible to pass the rocks on the -south side of the stream. From this, it was evident the -Major had never before seen the valley, and upon inquiry, -said so. One of our best men, Tunnehill, who had been -listening to what the Captain was saying, very positively -remarked: “I have long since learned to discredit everything -told by an Indian. I never knew one to tell the -truth. This imp of Satan has been lying to the Major, and -to me his object is very transparent. He knows a better -ford than the one below us.” A comrade laughingly observed: -“Perhaps you can find it for the Major, and help -him give us an evening ride; I have had all the exercise I -need to-day, and feel as hungry as a wolf.” Without a -reply, Tunnehill mounted his little black mule and left at -a gallop. He returned in a short time, at the same rapid -gate, but was in a sorry plight. The mule and rider had -unexpectedly taken a plunge bath in the ice-cold waters of -the Merced. As such mishaps excited but little sympathy, -Tunnehill was greeted with: “Hallo! what’s the matter, -comrade?” “Where do you get your washing done?” -“Been trying to cool off that frisky animal, have you?” -“Old Ten-ie-ya’s Cañon is not in as hot a place as we supposed, -is it?” “How about the reliability of the Indian -race?” To all these bantering jokes, though in an uncomfortable -plight, Tunnehill, with great good nature, replied: -“I am all right! I believe in orthodox immersion, but this -kind of baptism has only <i>confirmed</i> me in previous convictions.” -The shivering mule was rubbed, blanketed, and -provided for, before his master attended to his own comfort, -and then we learned that, in his attempt to explore a -way across the Merced, his mule was swept off its feet, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">59</span> -both were carried for some distance down the raging torrent.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="i_059" src="images/i_059.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">BRIDAL VEIL FALL.</p> - -<p class="copy">(630 feet in height.)</p></div> - -<p>After supper, guards stationed, and the camp fires plentifully -provided for, we gathered around -the burning logs of oak and pine, found -near our camp. The hearty supper and -cheerful blaze created a general good -feeling. Social converse and anecdotes—mingled with jokes—were -freely exchanged, as we enjoyed the solace of our pipes -and warmed ourselves preparatory to seeking further refreshment -in sleep. While thus engaged, I retained a full consciousness -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">60</span> -of our locality; for being in close proximity to -the huge cliff that had so attracted my attention, my mind -was frequently drawn away from my comrades. After the -jollity of the camp had somewhat subsided, the valley became -the topic of conversation around our camp fire. None -of us at that time, surmised the extreme vastness of those -cliffs; although before dark, we had seen El Capitan looking -down upon our camp, while the “Bridal Veil” was -being wafted in the breeze. Many of us <i>felt</i> the mysterious -grandeur of the scenery, as defined by our limited opportunity -to study it. I had—previous to my descent with the -Major—observed the towering height above us of the old -“Rock Chief,” and noticing the length of the steep descent -into the valley, had at least some idea of its solemn immensity.</p> - -<p>It may appear <i>sentimental</i>, but the coarse jokes of the -careless, and the indifference of the practical, sensibly jarred -my more devout feelings, while this subject was a matter -of general conversation; as if a sacred subject had been -ruthlessly profaned, or the visible power of Deity disregarded. -After relating my observations from the “Old -Bear Valley Trail,” I suggested that this valley should have -an appropriate name by which to designate it, and in a tone -of pleasantry, said to Tunnehill, who was drying his wet -clothing by our fire, “You are the first white man that ever -received any form of baptism in this valley, and you should -be considered the proper person to give a baptismal name -to the valley itself.” He replied, “If whisky can be provided -for such a ceremony, I shall be happy to participate; -but if it is to be another cold water affair, I have no desire -to take a hand. I have done enough in that line for to-night.” -Timely jokes and ready repartee for a time changed -the subject, but in the lull of this exciting pastime, some -one remarked, “I like Bunnell’s suggestion of giving this -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">61</span> -valley a name, and to-night is a good time to do it.” “All -right—if you have got one, show your hand,” was the response -of another. Different names were proposed, but -none were satisfactory to a majority of our circle. Some -romantic and foreign names were offered, but I observed -that a very large number were canonical and Scripture -names. From this I inferred that I was not the only one -in whom religious emotions or thoughts had been aroused -by the mysterious power of the surrounding scenery.</p> - -<p>As I did not take a fancy to any of the names proposed, -I remarked that “an American name would be the most -appropriate;” that “I could not see any necessity for going -to a foreign country for a name for American scenery—the -grandest that had ever yet been looked upon. That it would -be better to give it an Indian name than to import a strange -and inexpressive one; that the name of the tribe who had -occupied it, would be more appropriate than any I had -heard suggested.” I then proposed “that we give the -valley the name of Yo-sem-i-ty, as it was suggestive, euphonious, -and certainly <i>American</i>; that by so doing, the -name of the tribe of Indians which we met leaving their -homes in this valley, perhaps never to return, would be perpetuated.” -I was here interrupted “Devil take the Indians and their -names! Why should we honor these vagabond murderers -by perpetuating their name?” Another said: “I agree with -Tunnehill;——the Indians and their names. Mad Anthony’s -plan for me! Let’s call this Paradise Valley.” In -reply, I said to the last speaker, “Still, for a young man -with such <i>religious tendencies</i> they would be good objects -on which to develop your Christianity.” Unexpectedly, a -hearty laugh was raised, which broke up further discussion, -and before opportunity was given for any others to -object to the name, John O’Neal, a rollicking Texan of -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">62</span> -Capt. Boling’s company, vociferously announced to the -whole camp the subject of our discussion, by saying, “Hear -ye! Hear ye! Hear ye! A vote will now be taken to decide -what name shall be given to this valley.” The question of -giving it the name of Yo-sem-i-ty was then explained; and -upon a <i>viva voce</i> vote being taken, it was almost unanimously -adopted. The name that was there and thus adopted -by us, while seated around our camp fires, on the first visit -of a white man to this remarkable locality, is the name by -which it is now known to the world.</p> - -<p>At the time I proposed this name, the signification of it -(a grizzly bear) was not generally known to our battalion, -although “the grizzlies” was frequently used to designate -this tribe. Neither was it pronounced with uniformity. For -a correct pronunciation, Major Savage was our best authority. -He could speak the dialects of most of the mountain -tribes in this part of California, but he confessed that he -could not readily understand Ten-ie-ya, or the Indian guide, -as they appeared to speak a Pai-ute jargon.</p> - -<p>Major Savage checked the noisy demonstrations of our -“Master of Ceremonies,” but approvingly participated in -our proceedings, and told us that the name was Yo-sem-i-ty, -as pronounced by Ten-ie-ya, or O-soom-i-ty, as pronounced -by some other bands; and that it signified a full-grown grizzly -bear. He further stated, that the name was given to -old Ten-ie-ya’s band, because of their lawless and predatory -character.</p> - -<p>As I had observed that the different tribes in Mariposa -County differed somewhat in the pronunciation of this -name, I asked an explanation of the fact. With a smile -and a look, as if he suspected I was quizzing him, the -Major replied: “They only differ, as do the Swedes, Danes -and Norwegians, or as in the different Shires of England; -but you know well enough how similar in sound words may -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">63</span> -be of entirely different meaning, and how much depends -on accent. I have found this to be the greatest difficulty a -learner has to contend with.”</p> - -<p>After the name had been decided upon, the Major narrated -some of his experiences in the use of the general -“sign language”—as a Rocky Mountain man—and his -practice of it when he first came among the California -Indians, until he had acquired their language. The Major -regarded the Kah-we-ah, as the parent language of the -San-Joaquin Valley Indians, while that in use by the -other mountain tribes in their vicinity, were but so many -dialects of Kah-we-ah, the Pai-ute and more Northern -tribes. When we sought our repose, it was with feelings -of quiet satisfaction that I wrapped myself in my blankets, -and soundly slept.</p> - -<p>I consider it proper, to digress somewhat from a regular -narrative of the incidents of our expedition, to consider -some matters relative to the name “Yosemity.” This was -the form of orthography and pronunciation originally in -use by our battalion. Lieutenant Moore, of the U. S. A. -in his report of an expedition to the Valley in 1852, substituted -<i>e</i> as the terminal letter, in place of <i>y</i>, in use by us; -no doubt thinking the use of <i>e</i> more scholarly, or perhaps -supposing Yosemite to be of Spanish derivation. This -orthography has been adopted, and is in general use, but -the proper pronunciation, as a consequence, is not always -attainable to the general reader.</p> - -<p>Sometime after the name had been adopted, I learned -from Major Savage that Ten-ie-ya repudiated the name for -the Valley, but proudly acknowledged it as the designation -of his band, claiming that “when he was a young chief, -this name had been selected because they occupied the -mountains and valleys which were the favorite resort of -the Grizzly Bears, and because his people were expert in -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">64</span> -killing them. That his tribe had adopted the name because -those who had bestowed it were afraid of ‘the Grizzlies’ -and feared his band.”</p> - -<p>It was traditionary with the other Indians, that the band -to which the name Yosemite had been given, had originally -been formed and was then composed of outlaws or refugees -from other tribes. That nearly all were descendants of the -neighboring tribes on both sides of “Kay-o-pha,” or “<i>Skye -Mountains</i>;” the “High Sierras.”</p> - -<p>Ten-ie-ya was asked concerning this tradition, and responded -rather loftily: “I am the descendant of an Ah-wah-ne-chee -chief. His people lived in the mountains and -valley where my people have lived. The valley was then -called Ah-wah-nee. Ah-wah-ne-chee signifies the dwellers -in Ahwahnee.”</p> - -<p>I afterwards learned the traditional history of Ten-ie-ya’s -ancestors. His statement was to the effect, that the Ah-wah-ne-chees -had many years ago been a large tribe, and -lived in territory now claimed by him and his people. -That by wars, and a fatal black-sickness (probably smallpox -or measles), nearly all had been destroyed. The survivors -of the band fled from the valley and joined other -tribes. For years afterward, the country was uninhabited; -but few of the extinct tribe ever visited it, and from a -superstitions fear, it was avoided. Some of his ancestors -had gone to the Mono tribe and been adopted by them. -His father had taken a wife from that tribe. His mother -was a Mono woman, and he had lived with her people while -young. Eventually, Ten-ie-ya, with some of his father’s tribe -had visited the valley, and claimed it as their birth-right. -He thus became the founder of the new tribe or band, -which has since been called the “Yosemite.”</p> - -<p>It is very probable that the statement of Major Savage, -as to the origin of the name as applicable to Ten-ie-ya’s -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">65</span> -band; was traditional with his informants, but I give credit -to Ten-ie-ya’s own history of his tribe as most probable.</p> - -<p>From my knowledge of Indian customs, I am aware that -it is not uncommon for them to change the names of persons -or localities after some remarkable event in the history -of either. It would not, therefore, appear strange that Ten-ie-ya -should have adopted another name for his band. I -was unable to fix upon any definite date at which the Ah-wah-ne-chees -became extinct as a tribe, but from the fact -that some of the Yosemites claimed to be direct descendants, -the time could not have been as long as would be inferred -from their descriptions. When these facts were -communicated to Captain Boling, and Ah-wah-ne was ascertained -to be the <i>classical</i> name, the Captain said that -name was all right enough for history or poetry, but that -we could not now change the name Yosemite, nor was it -desirable to do so. I made every effort to ascertain the signification -of Ah-wah-ne, but could never fully satisfy myself, -as I received different interpretations at different times. -In endeavoring to ascertain from Ten-ie-ya his explanation -of the name, he, by the motion of his hands, indicated depth, -while trying to illustrate the name, at the same time plucking -grass which he held up before me. From these “<i>signs</i>” -I inferred that it must mean the deep grassy valley. Still, -it may not mean that. Sandino was unable to give its true -signification, saying by way of explanation that Ah-wah-ne -was a name of the old tribe, that he did not know how -to translate. Major Savage also said that Ten-ie-ya and a -few of the old Indians in his band used words which he did -not fully understand, and which the others could neither -use nor explain.</p> - -<p>The dialect of the Yosemites was a composite of that of -almost every tribe around them; and even words of Spanish -derivation were discovered in their conversations. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">66</span></p> - -<p>It is not uncommon for the mountain men and traders, -to acquire a mixed jargon of Indian dialects, which they -mingle with Spanish, French or English in their talk to an -extent sometimes amusing. The Indians readily adopt -words from this lingo, and learn to Anglicize Indian names -in conversation with “Americans.” This, when done by -the Mission Indians, who perhaps have already made efforts -to improve the Indian name with Mission Spanish, tends -to mislead the inquirer after <i>“pure” Indian names</i>.</p> - -<p>The Mission Indians after deserting, introduced and applied -Spanish names to objects that already had Indian -designations, and in this way, new words are formed from -corrupted Mission Spanish, that may lead to wrong interpretations. -I learned from Russio, the chief interpreter, -that sometimes more than one word was used to express the -same object, and often one word expressed different objects. -As an illustration of corrupted Spanish that passes for Indian, -the words Oya (olla) and Hoya, may be taken. Oya -signifies a water pot, and Hoya, a pit hole. From these -words the Mission Indians have formed “Loya,” which is -used to designate camp grounds where holes in the rocks -may be found near, in which to pulverize acorns, grass -seeds, &c., as well as to the “Sentinel Rock,” from its fancied -resemblance to a water pot, or long water <i>basket</i>. -Another source of difficulty, is that of representing by -written characters the echoing gutteral sounds of some Indian -words. While being aware of this, I can safely assert -that Yosemite, is purer and better Indian than is Mississippi, -(“Me-ze-se-be,” the river that runs every where; that -is, “Endless river”) or many other names that are regarded -as good if not <i>pure Indian</i>.<a id="FNanchor_9" href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">9</a> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">67</span></p> - -<p>Our interpreters were, or had been, Mission Indians, who -rendered the dialects into as good Spanish as they had at -command, but rather than fail in their office, for want of -words, they would occasionally insert one of their own -coining. This was done, regardless of the consequences, -and when chided, declared it was for our benefit they had -done so.</p> - -<p>Attempts were made to supersede the name we had given -the valley, by substituting some fancied improvements. At -first, I supposed these to be simply changes rung on Yosemite, -but soon observed the earnestness of the sponsors in -advocating the new names, in their magazine and newspaper -articles. They claimed to have acquired the <i>correct -name</i> from their Indian guides, employed on their visits to -the Yosemite.</p> - -<p>In 1855 Mr. J. M. Hutchings, of San Francisco, visited -the Yosemite, and published a description of it, and also -published a lithograph of the Yosemite Fall. Through his -energetic efforts, the valley was more fully advertised. He -ambitiously gave it the name of Yo-Hamite, and tenaciously -adhered to it for some time; though Yosemite had already -crystalized.</p> - -<p>The Rev. Doctor Scott, of San Francisco, in a newspaper -article—disappointing to his admirers—descriptive of his -travels and sojourn there, endeavored to dispossess both -Mr. Hutchings and myself of our names, and <i>named</i> the -valley Yo-Amite: probably as a <i>peace</i> offering to us -both.</p> - -<p>I did not at first consider it good policy to respond to -these articles. I had no desire to engage in a newspaper -controversy with such influences against me; but after solicitations -from Mr. Ayers, and other friends, I gave the -facts upon which were based editorials in the “California -Chronicle,” “Sacramento Union,” the Mariposa and other -papers. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">68</span></p> - -<p>By invitation of Mr. Hutchings, I had a personal interview -with him in San Francisco, relative to this matter, and -at his request furnished some of the incidents connected -with our expedition against the Indians, as hereinbefore -narrated. These he published in his magazine, and afterwards -in his “Scenes of Wonder and Curiosity in California.”</p> - -<p>This statement of facts was signed by myself, and certified -to by two members of the State legislature—James M. -Roan and George H. Crenshaw—as follows: “We, the undersigned, -having been members of the same company, and -through most of the scenes depicted by Doctor Bunnell, -have no hesitation in saying that the article above is correct.”</p> - -<p>Mr. Hutchings says: “We cheerfully give place to the -above communication, that the public may learn how and -by whom this remarkable valley was first visited and -named; and, although we have differed with the writer and -others concerning the name given, as explained in several -articles that have appeared at different times in the several -newspapers of the day, in which Yo-Hamite was preferred; -yet as Mr. Bunnell was among the first to visit the valley, -we most willingly accord to him the right of giving it whatsoever -name he pleases.”</p> - -<p>Mr. Hutchings then goes on to explain how he obtained -the name Yo-Hamite from his Indian guide Kos-sum; that -its correctness was affirmed by John Hunt, previous to the -publication of the lithograph of the great falls, etc., and -during this explanation, says: “Up to this time we have -never heard or known any other name than Yosemite;” -and farther on in a manly way says: “Had we before known -that Doctor Bunnell and his party were the first whites -who ever entered the valley (although we have the honor of -being <i>the first in later years to visit it and call public attention -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">69</span> -to it</i>), we should long ago have submitted to the -name Doctor Bunnell had given it, as the discoverer of the -valley.”</p> - -<p>After my interview with Mr. Hutchings—for I had never -heard the word Yo-Hamite until it was published by him—I -asked John Hunt, the Indian trader referred to, where -he had got the word furnished to Mr. Hutchings. John, -with some embarrassment, said, that “Yo-Hem-i-te was the -way his Indians pronounced the name.” I asked what -name? “Why, Yosemite,” said John. But, I replied, you -know that the Indian name for the valley is Ah-wah-ne! -and the name given by us was the name of Ten-ie-ya’s band? -“Of course, (said John,) but my Indians now apply the -word Yo-Hemite to the valley or the territory adjacent, -though their name for a bear is Osoomity.” John Hunt’s -squaw was called, and asked by him the meaning of the -word, but confessed her ignorance. Mr. Cunningham was -also consulted, but could give us no certain information; -but surmised that the word had been derived from “Le-Hamite -‘The Arrowwood.’” Another said possibly from -“Hem-nock,” the Kah-we-ah word for God. As to Yo-Amite, -insisted on by Doctor Scott, I made no effort to find -an interpretation of it. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">70</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Date of Discovery—First White Visitors—Captain Joe Walker’s Statement—Ten-ie-ya’s -Cunning—Indian Tradition—A lying Guide—The -Ancient Squaw—Destroying Indian Stores—Sweat-houses—The -Mourner’s Toilet—Sentiment and Reality—Return to Head-quarters.</p></blockquote> - -<p>The date of our discovery and entrance into the Yosemite -was about the 21st of March, 1851. We were afterward -assured by Ten-ie-ya and others of his band, that this was -the first visit ever made to this valley by white men. Ten-ie-ya -said that a small party of white men once crossed the -mountains on the North side, but were so guided as not to -see it; Appleton’s and the People’s Encyclopedias to the -contrary notwithstanding.<a id="FNanchor_10" href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">10</a></p> - -<p>It was to prevent the recurrence of such an event, that -Ten-ie-ya had consented to go to the commissioner’s camp -and make peace, intending to return to his mountain home -as soon as the excitement from the recent outbreak subsided. -The entrance to the Valley had ever been carefully -guarded by the old chief, and the people of his band. As -a part of its traditionary history, it was stated: “That -when Ten-ie-ya left the tribe of his mother and went to -live in Ah-wah-ne, he was accompanied by a very old Ah-wah-ne-chee, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">71</span> -who had been the great ‘medicine man’ of -his tribe.”</p> - -<p>It was through the influence of this old friend of his -father that Ten-ie-ya was induced to leave the Mono tribe, -and with a few of the descendants from the Ah-wah-nee-chees, -who had been living with the Monos and Pai-Utes, -to establish himself in the valley of his ancestors as their -chief. He was joined by the descendants from the Ah-wah-ne-chees, -and by others who had fled from their own tribes -to avoid summary Indian justice. The old “medicine man” -was the counselor of the young chief. Not long before the -death of this patriarch, as if endowed with prophetic wisdom, -he assured Ten-ie-ya that while he retained possession -of Ah-wah-ne his band would increase in numbers and become -powerful. That if he befriended those who sought -his protection, no other tribe would come to the valley to -make war upon him, or attempt to drive him from it, and -if he obeyed his counsels he would put a spell upon it that -would hold it sacred for him and his people alone; none -other would ever dare to make it their home. He then cautioned -the young chief against the horsemen of the lowlands -(the Spanish residents), and declared that, should they enter -Ah-wah-ne, his tribe would soon be scattered and destroyed, -or his people be taken captive, and he himself be the last -chief in Ah-wah-ne.</p> - -<p>For this reason, Ten-ie-ya declared, had he so rigidly -guarded his valley home, and all who sought his protection. -No one ventured to enter it, except by his permission; all -feared the “witches” there, and his displeasure. He had -“made war upon the white gold diggers to drive them -from the mountains, and prevent their entrance into Ah-wah-ne.”</p> - -<p>The Yo-sem-i-tes had been the most warlike of the -mountain tribes in this part of California; and the Ah-wah-ne-chee -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">72</span> -and Mono members of it, were of finer build -and lighter color than those commonly called “California -Digger Indians.” Even the “Diggers” of the band, from -association and the better food and air afforded in the mountains, -had become superior to their inheritance, and as a -tribe, the Yosemites were feared by other Indians.</p> - -<p>The superstitious fear of annihilation had, however, so -depressed the warlike ardor of Ten-ie-ya, who had now become -an old man, that he had decided to make efforts to -conciliate the Americans, rather than further resist their -occupancy of the mountains; as thereby, he hoped to save -his valley from intrusion. In spite of Ten-ie-ya’s cunning, -the prophecies of the “old medicine” man have been -mostly fulfilled. White horsemen have entered Ah-wah-ne; -the tribe has been scattered and destroyed. Ten-ie-ya -was the last chief of his people. He was killed by the -chief of the Monos, not because of the prophecy; nor yet -because of our entrance into his territory, but in retribution -for a crime against the Mono’s hospitality. But I -must not, Indian like, tell the latter part of my story -first.</p> - -<p>After an early breakfast on the morning following our -entrance into the Yosemite, we equipped ourselves for duty; -and as the word was passed to “fall in,” we mounted and -filed down the trail to the lower ford, ready to commence -our explorations.</p> - -<p>The water in the Merced had fallen some during the -night, but the stream was still in appearance a raging torrent. -As we were about to cross, our guide with earnest -gesticulations asserted that the water was too deep to cross, -that if we attempted it, we would be swept down into the -cañon. That later, we could cross without difficulty. These -assertions angered the Major, and he told the guide that he -lied; for he knew that later in the day the snow would melt. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">73</span> -Turning to Captain Boling he said: “I am now positive -that the Indians are in the vicinity, and for that reason the -guide would deceive us.” Telling the young Indian to remain -near his person, he gave the order to cross at once.</p> - -<p>The ford was found to be rocky; but we passed over it -without serious difficulty, although several repeated their -morning ablutions while stumbling over the boulders.</p> - -<p>The open ground on the north side was found free from -snow. The trail led toward “El Capitan,” which had from -the first, been the particular object of my admiration.</p> - -<p>At this time no distinctive names were known by which -to designate the cliffs, waterfalls, or any of the especial objects -of interest, and the imaginations of some ran wild in -search of <i>appropriate</i> ones. None had any but a limited -idea of the height of this cliff, and but few appeared conscious -of the vastness of the granite wall before us; although -an occasional ejaculation betrayed the feelings which the -imperfect comprehension of the grand and wonderful excited. -A few of us remarked upon the great length of time -required to pass it, and by so doing, probably arrived at -more or less correct conclusions regarding its size.</p> - -<p>Soon after we crossed the ford, smoke was seen to issue -from a cluster of manzanita shrubs that commanded a view -of the trail. On examination, the smoking brands indicated -that it had been a picket fire, and we now felt assured that -our presence was known and our movements watched by the -vigilant Indians we were hoping to find. Moving rapidly -on, we discovered near the base of El Capitan, quite a large -collection of Indian huts, situated near Pigeon creek. On -making a hasty examination of the village and vicinity, no -Indians could be found, but from the generally undisturbed -condition of things usually found in an Indian camp, it was -evident that the occupants had but recently left; appearances -indicated that some of the wigwams or huts had been -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">74</span> -occupied during the night. Not far from the camp, upon -posts, rocks, and in trees, was a large <i>caché</i> of acorns and -other provisions.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="i_074" src="images/i_074.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="copy2">HOUSEWORTH & CO. PHOTO.</p> - -<p class="caption">HALF DOME.</p> - -<p class="copy">(4,737 feet in height.)</p></div> - -<p>As the trail showed that it had been used by Indians going -up, but a short halt was made. As we moved on, a -smoke was again seen in the distance, and some of the more -eager ones dashed ahead of the column, but as we reached -the ford to which we were led by the main trail leading to -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">75</span> -the right, our dashing cavaliers rejoined us and again took -their places. These men reported that “fallen rocks” had -prevented their passage up on the north side, and that our -only course was to cross at the ford and follow the trail, as -the low lands appeared too wet for rapid riding. Recrossing -the Merced to the south-side, we found trails leading both -up and down the river. A detachment was sent down to -reconnoitre the open land below, while the main column -pursued its course. The smoke we had seen was soon discovered -to be rising from another encampment nearly -south of the “Royal Arches;” and at the forks of the -Ten-ie-ya branch of the Merced, near the south-west base of -the “Half Dome,” still another group of huts was brought -to view.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="i_075" src="images/i_075.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">NORTH DOME AND ROYAL ARCHES.</p> - -<p class="copy">(3,568 feet in height.)</p></div> - -<p>These discoveries necessitated the recrossing of the river, -which had now again become quite swollen; but by this -time our horses and ourselves had become used to the icy -waters, and when at times our animals lost their footing at -the fords, they were not at all alarmed, but vigorously -swam to the shore. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">76</span></p> - -<p>Abundant evidences were again found to indicate that -the huts here had but just been deserted; that they had -been occupied that morning. Although a rigid search was -made, no Indians were found. Scouting parties in charge -of Lieutenants Gilbert and Chandler, were sent out to examine -each branch of the valley, but this was soon found -to be an impossible task to accomplish in one day. While -exploring among the rocks that had fallen from the “Royal -Arches” at the southwesterly base of the North Dome, -my attention was attracted to a huge rock stilted upon -some smaller ones. Cautiously glancing underneath, I was -for a moment startled by a living object. Involuntarily -my rifle was brought to bear on it, when I discovered the -object to be a female; an extremely old squaw, but with a -countenance that could only be likened to a vivified Egyptian -mummy. This creature exhibited no expression of -alarm, and was apparently indifferent to hope or fear, love -or hate. I hailed one of my comrades on his way to camp, -to report to Major Savage that I had discovered a peculiar -living ethnological curiosity, and to bring something for it -to eat. She was seated on the ground, hovering over the -remnants of an almost exhausted fire. I replenished her -supply of fuel, and waited for the Major. She neither -spoke or exhibited any curiosity as to my presence.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="i_077" src="images/i_077.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">CATHEDRAL ROCKS</p> - -<p class="copy">(2,660 feet in height.)</p></div> - -<p>Major Savage soon came, but could elicit nothing of importance -from her. When asked where her companions -were, she understood the dialect used, for she very curtly -replied “You can hunt for them if you want to see them”! -When asked why she was left alone, she replied “I am too -old to climb the rocks”! The Major—forgetting the gallantry -due her sex—inquired “How old are you?” With -an ineffably scornful grunt, and a coquettish leer at the -Major, she maintained an indignant silence. This attempt -at a smile, left the Major in doubt as to her age. Subsequently, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">77</span> -when -Ten-ie-ya was interrogated -as to -the age of this -old squaw, he replied -that “No -one knows her -age. That when -he was a boy, it -was a favorite -<i>tradition</i> of the -<i>old</i> members of -his band, that -when she was a -child, the peaks -of the Sierras -were but little -hills.” This free -interpretation -was given by the -Major, while -seated around -the camp fire at -night. If not -<i>reliable</i>, it was -excessively -amusing to the -“Boys,” and added -to the Major’s -popularity. -On a subsequent -visit to the Valley, -an attempt was made to send the old -creature to the commissioner’s camp; she -was placed on a mule and started. As -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">78</span> -she could not bear the fatigue, she was left with another -squaw. We learned that she soon after departed “to <i>the -happy land in the West</i>.”</p> - -<p>The detachment sent down the trail reported the discovery -of a small rancheria, a short distance above the “Cathedral -Rocks,” but the huts were unoccupied. They also reported -the continuance of the trail down the left bank. The other -detachments found huts in groups, but no Indians. At all -of these localities the stores of food were abundant.</p> - -<p>Their <i>cachés</i> were principally of acorns, although many -contained bay (California laurel), Piñon pine (Digger pine), -and chinquepin nuts, grass seeds, wild rye or oats (scorched), -dried worms, scorched grasshoppers, and what proved to be -the dried larvæ of insects, which I was afterwards told were -gathered from the waters of the lakes in and east of the -Sierra Nevada. It was by this time quite clear that a large -number of Ten-ie-ya’s band was hidden in the cliffs or -among the rocky gorges or cañons, not accessible to us from -the knowledge we then had of their trails and passes. We -had not the time, nor had we supplied ourselves sufficiently -to hunt them out. It was therefore decided that the best -policy was to destroy their huts and stores, with a view of -starving them out, and of thus compelling then to come in -and join with Ten-ie-ya and the people with him on the reservation. -At this conclusion the destruction of their property -was ordered, and at once commenced. While this work -was in progress, I indulged my curiosity in examining the -lodges in which had been left their home property, domestic, -useful and ornamental. As compared with eastern -tribes, their supplies of furniture of all kinds, excepting -baskets, were meagre enough.</p> - -<p>These baskets were quite numerous, and were of various -patterns and for different uses. The large ones were made -either of bark, roots of the Tamarach or Cedar, Willow or -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">79</span> -Tule. Those made for gathering and transporting food -supplies, were of large size and round form, with a sharp -apex, into which, when inverted and placed upon the back, -everything centres. This form of basket enables the carriers -to keep their balance while passing over seemingly -impassable rocks, and along the verge of dangerous precipices. -Other baskets found served as water buckets. -Others again of various sizes were used as cups and soup -bowls; and still another kind, made of a tough, wiry grass, -closely woven and cemented, was used for kettles for boiling -food. The boiling was effected by hot stones being -continually plunged into the liquid mass, until the desired -result was obtained.</p> - -<p>The water baskets were also made of “wire-grass;” being -porous, evaporation is facilitated, and like the porous -earthen water-jars of Mexico, and other hot countries, the -water put into them is kept cool by evaporation. There -were also found at some of the encampments, robes or -blankets made from rabbit and squirrel skins, and from -skins of water-fowl. There were also ornaments and musical -instruments of a rude character. The instruments -were drums and flageolets. The ornaments were of bone, -bears’ claws, birds’ bills and feathers. The thread used by -these Indians, I found was spun or twisted from the inner -bark of a species of the asclepias or milk-weed, by ingeniously -suspending a stone to the fibre, and whirling it with -great rapidity. Sinews are chiefly used for sewing skins, -for covering their bows and feathering their arrows. Their -fish spears were but a single tine of bone, with a cord so -attached near the centre, that when the spear, loosely placed -in a socket in the pole, was pulled out by the struggles of -the fish, the tine and cord would hold it as securely as -though held by a barbed hook.</p> - -<p>There were many things found that only an Indian could -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">80</span> -possibly use, and which it would be useless for me to attempt -to describe; such, for instance, as stag-horn hammers, -deer prong punches (for making arrow-heads), obsidian, -pumice-stone and salt brought from the eastern -slope of the Sierras and from the desert lakes. In the -hurry of their departure they had left everything. The -numerous bones of animals scattered about the camps, indicated -their love of horse-flesh as a diet.</p> - -<p>Among these relics could be distinguished the bones of -horses and mules, as well as other animals, eaten by these -savages. Deers and bears were frequently driven into the -valley during their seasons of migration, and were killed -by expert hunters perched upon rocks and in trees that -commanded their runways or trails; but their chief dependence -for meat was upon horseflesh.</p> - -<p>Among the relics of stolen property were many things -recognized by our “boys,” while applying the torch and -giving all to the flames. A comrade discovered a bridle -and part of a riata or rope which was stolen from him with -a mule <i>while waiting for the commissioners to inquire -into the cause of the war with the Indians</i>! No animals -of any kind were kept by the Yosemites for any length of -time except dogs, and they are quite often sacrificed to -gratify their pride and appetite, in a dog feast. Their -highest estimate of animals is only as an article of food. -Those stolen from the settlers were not kept for their usefulness, -except as additional camp supplies. The acorns -found were alone estimated at from four to six hundred -bushels.</p> - -<p>During our explorations we were on every side astonished -at the colossal representations of cliffs, rocky cañons and -water-falls which constantly challenged our attention and admiration.</p> - -<p>Occasionally some fragment of a garment was found, or -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">81</span> -other sign of Indians, but no trail could be discovered by -<i>our</i> eyes. Tired and almost exhausted in the fruitless search -for Indians, the footmen returned to the place at which they -had left their horses in the cañons, and in very thankfulness -caressed them with delight.</p> - -<p>In subsequent visits, this region was thoroughly explored -and names given to prominent objects and localities.</p> - -<p>While searching for hidden stores, I took the opportunity -to examine some of the numerous sweat-houses noticed -on the bank of the Merced, below a large camp near the -mouth of the Ten-ie-ya branch. It may not be out of place -to here give a few words in description of these conveniences -of a permanent Indian encampment, and the uses -for which they are considered a necessity.</p> - -<p>The remains of these structures are sometimes mistaken -for Tumuli. They were constructed of poles, bark, grass -and mud. The frame-work of poles is first covered with -bark, reeds or grass, and then the mud—as tenacious as the -soil will admit of—is spread thickly over it. The structure -is in the form of a dome, resembling a huge round mound. -After being dried by a slight fire, kindled inside, the mud is -covered with earth of a sufficient depth to shed the rain from -without, and prevent the escape of heat from within. A -small opening for ingress and egress is left; this comprises -the extent of the house when complete, and ready for use. -These sweat-baths are used as a luxury, as a curative for -disease, and as a convenience for cleansing the skin, when -necessity demands it, although the Indian race is not noted -for cleanliness.</p> - -<p>As a luxury, no Russian or Turkish bath is more enjoyed -by civilized people, than are these baths by the Mountain Indians. -I have seen a half dozen or more enter one of these -rudely constructed sweat-houses, through the small aperture -left for the purpose. Hot stones are taken in, the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">82</span> -aperture is closed until suffocation would seem impending, -when they would crawl out reeking with perspiration, and -with a shout, spring like acrobats into the cold waters of -the stream. As a remedial agent for disease, the same -course is pursued, though varied at times by the burning -and inhalation of resinous boughs and herbs.</p> - -<p>In the process for cleansing the skin from impurities, -hot air alone is generally used. If an Indian had passed the -usual period for mourning for a relative, and the adhesive -pitch too tenaciously clung to his no longer sorrowful countenance, -he would enter, and re-enter the heated house, until -the cleansing had become complete.</p> - -<p>The mourning pitch is composed of the charred bones -and ashes of their dead relative or friend. These remains -of the funeral pyre, with the charcoal, are pulverized and -mixed with the resin of the pine. This hideous mixture -is usually retained upon the face of the mourner until it -wears off. If it has been well compounded, it may last -nearly a year; although the young—either from a super-abundance -of vitality, excessive reparative powers of the -skin, or from powers of will—seldom mourn so long. When -the bare surface exceeds that covered by the pitch, it is not -a scandalous disrespect in the young to remove it entirely; -but a mother will seldom remove pitch or garment until -both are nearly worn out.</p> - -<p>In their camps were found articles from the miners’ -camps, and from the unguarded “ranchman.” There was -no lack of evidence that the Indians who had deserted their -villages or wigwams, were truly entitled to the <i>soubriquet</i> -of “the Grizzlies,” “the lawless.”</p> - -<p>Although we repeatedly discovered fresh trails leading -from the different camps, all traces were soon lost among -the rocks at the base of the cliffs. The debris or talus not -only afforded places for temporary concealment, but provided -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">83</span> -facilities for escape without betraying the direction. If -by chance a trail was followed for a while, it would at last -be traced to some apparently inaccessible ledge, or to the -foot of some slippery depression in the walls, up which we -did not venture to climb. While scouting up the Ten-ie-ya -cañon, above Mirror Lake, I struck the fresh trail of quite -a large number of Indians. Leaving our horses, a few of -us followed up the tracks until they were lost in the ascent -up the cliff. By careful search they were again found and -followed until finally they hopelessly disappeared.</p> - -<p>Tiring of our unsuccessful search, the hunt was abandoned, -although we were convinced that the Indians had in some -way passed up the cliff.</p> - -<p>During this time, and while descending to the valley, I -partly realized the great height of the cliffs and high fall. -I had observed the height we were compelled to climb before -the Talus had been overcome, though from below this appeared -insignificant, and after reaching the summit of our -ascent, the cliffs still towered above us. It was by instituting -these comparisons while ascending and descending, -that I was able to form a better judgment of altitude; for -while entering the valley,—although, as before stated, I had -observed the towering height of El Capitan,—my mind had -been so preoccupied with the marvelous, that comparison -had scarcely performed its proper function.</p> - -<p>The level of the valley proper now appeared quite distant -as we looked down upon it, and objects much less than -full size. As night was fast approaching, and a storm -threatened, we returned down the trail and took our course -for the rendezvous selected by Major Savage, in a grove of -oaks near the mouth of “Indian Cañon.”</p> - -<p>While on our way down, looking across to and up the -south or Glacier Cañon, I noticed its beautiful fall, and -planned an <i>excursion</i> for the morrow. I almost forgot my -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">84</span> -fatigue, in admiration of the solemn grandeur within my -view; the lofty walls, the towering domes and numerous -water-falls; their misty spray blending with the clouds settling -down from the higher mountains.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="i_084" src="images/i_084.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">GLACIER FALL.</p> - -<p class="copy">(550 feet in height.)</p></div> - -<p>The duties of the day had been severe on men and horses, -for beside fording the Merced several times, the numerous -branches pouring -over cliffs and -down ravines -from the melting -snow, rendered -the overflow of -the bottom lands -so constant that -we were often -compelled to -splash through -the water-courses -that later would -be dry. These -torrents of cold -water, commanded -more especial -attention, and excited -more <i>comment</i> -than did the -grandeur of the -cliffs and water-falls. -We were not a party of tourists, seeking recreation, -nor philosophers investigating the operations of -nature. Our business there was to find Indians who were -endeavoring to escape from our <i>charitable</i> intentions toward -them. But very few of the volunteers seemed to have any -appreciation of the wonderful proportions of the enclosing -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">85</span> -granite rocks; their curiosity had been to see the stronghold -of the enemy, and the <i>general</i> verdict was that it was -gloomy enough.</p> - -<p>Tired and wet, the independent scouts sought the camp -and reported their failures. Gilbert and Chandler came in -with their detachments just at dark, from their tiresome explorations -of the southern branches. Only a small squad -of their commands climbed above the Vernal and Nevada -falls; and seeing the clouds resting upon the mountains -above the Nevada Fall, they retraced their steps through the -showering mist of the Vernal, and joined their comrades, -who had already started down its rocky gorge. These men -found no Indians, but they were the first discoverers of the -Vernal and Nevada Falls, and the Little Yosemite. They -reported what they had seen to their assembled comrades at -the evening camp-fires. Their names have now passed from -my memory—not having had an intimate personal acquaintance -with them—for according to my recollection they belonged -to the company of Capt. Dill.</p> - -<p>While on our way down to camp we met Major Savage -with a detachment who had been burning a large <i>caché</i> located -in the fork, and another small one below the mouth -of the Ten-ie-ya branch. This had been held in reserve for -possible use, but the Major had now fired it, and the flames -were leaping high. Observing his movements for a few -moments we rode up and made report of our unsuccessful -efforts. I briefly, but with some enthusiasm, described my -view from the cliff up the North Cañon, the Mirror Lake -view of the Half Dome, the Fall of the South Cañon and -the view of the distant South Dome. I volunteered a suggestion -that some new tactics would have to be devised before -we should be able to corral the “Grizzlies” or “smoke -them out.” The Major looked up from the charred mass -of burning acorns, and as he glanced down the smoky valley, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">86</span> -said: “This affords us the best prospect of any yet discovered; -just look!” “Splendid!” I promptly replied, -“Yo-sem-i-te must be beautifully grand a few weeks later, -when the foliage and flowers are at their prime, and the -rush of water has somewhat subsided. Such cliffs and water-falls -I never saw before, and I doubt if they exist in any -other place.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="i_086" src="images/i_086.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">VERNAL FALL.</p> - -<p class="copy">(350 feet in height.)</p></div> - -<p>I was surprised -and somewhat irritated -by the -hearty laugh with -which my reply -was greeted. The -Major caught the -expression of my -eye and shrugged -his shoulders as -he hastily said: “I -suppose that is all -right, Doctor, -about the water-falls, -&c., for there -are enough of -them here for one -locality, as we -have all discovered; -but my remark -was not in -reference to the -scenery, but the -<i>prospect</i> of the -Indians being starved out, and of their coming in to sue for -peace. We have all been more or less wet since we rolled up -our blankets this morning, and this fire is very enjoyable, but -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">87</span> -the prospect that it offers to my mind of <i>smoking out</i> the -Indians, is more agreeable to me than its warmth or all the -scenery in creation. I know, Doc., that there is a good -deal of iron in -you, but there is -also considerable -sentiment, and I -am not in a very -sentimental -mood.” I replied -that I did not -think that any of -us felt very much -like making love -or writing poetry, -but that Ten-ie-ya’s -remark to -him about the -“Great Spirit” -providing so -bountifully for -his people, had -several times occurred -to me since -entering here, and -that no doubt to -Ten-ie-ya, this -was a veritable Indian paradise. “Well,” -said the Major, “as far as that is concerned, -although I have not carried a -Bible with me since I became a mountain-man, -I remember well enough that -Satan entered paradise and did all the mischief he could, -but I intend to be a bigger devil in this Indian paradise -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">88</span> -than old Satan ever was; and when I leave, I don’t intend -to <i>crawl</i> out, either. Now Doc. we will go to camp but -let me say while upon the subject, that we are in no condition -to judge fairly of this valley. The annoyances and -disappointments of a fruitless search, together with the certainty -of a snow-storm approaching, makes all this beautiful -scenery appear to me gloomy enough. In a word, it -is what we supposed it to be before seeing it, a h—— of a -place. The valley, no doubt, will always be a wonder for -its grouping of cliffs and water-falls, but hemmed in by -walls of rock, your vision turned in, as it were, upon yourself—a -residence here would be anything but desirable for -me. Any one of the Rocky Mountain parks would be preferable, -while the ease with which buffalo, black-tail and big-horn -could be provided in the “Rockies” would, in comparison, -make your Indian paradise anything but desirable, -even for these Indians.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="i_087" src="images/i_087.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">NEVADA FALL.</p> - -<p class="copy">(600 feet in height.)</p></div> - -<p>The more practical tone and views of the Major dampened -the ardor of my fancy in investing the valley with all -desirable qualities, but as we compared with each other the -experiences of the day, it was very clear that the half had -not yet been seen or told, and that repeated views would be -required before any one person could say that he had seen the -Yosemite. It will probably be as well for me to say here -that though Major Savage commanded the first expedition -to the valley, he never revisited it, and died without ever -having seen the Vernal and Nevada Falls, or any of the -views belonging to the region of the Yosemite, except those -seen from the valley and from the old Indian trail on our -first entrance.</p> - -<p>We found our camp had been plentifully supplied with -dry wood by the provident guard, urged, no doubt, by the -threatening appearances of another snow-storm. Some -rude shelters of poles and brush were thrown up around the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">89</span> -fires, on which were placed the drying blankets, the whole -serving as an improvement on our bivouac accomodations. -The night was colder than the previous one, for the wind -was coming down the cañons of the snowy Sierras. The -fires were lavishly piled with the dry oak wood, which sent -out a glowing warmth. The fatigue and exposure of the -day were forgotten in the hilarity with which supper was devoured -by the hungry scouts while steaming in their wet -garments. After supper Major Savage announced that -“from the very extensive draft on the commissary stores just -made, it was necessary to return to the ‘South Fork.’” He -said that it would be advisable for us to return, as we were -not in a condition to endure delay if the threatened storm -should prove to be a severe one; and ordered both Captains -Boling and Dill to have their companies ready for the -march at daylight the next morning.</p> - -<p>While enjoying the warmth of the fire preparatory to -a night’s rest, the incidents of our observations during -the day were interchanged. The probable heights of the -cliffs was discussed. One <i>official</i> estimated “El Capitan” -at 400 feet!! Capt. Boling at 800 feet; Major Savage was -in no mood to venture an opinion. My estimate was a -sheer perpendicularity of at least 1500 feet. Mr. C. H. -Spencer, son of Prof. Thomas Spencer, of Geneva, N. Y.,—who -had traveled quite extensively in Europe,—and a -French gentleman, Monsieur Bouglinval, a civil engineer, -who had joined us for the sake of adventure, gave me their -opinions that my estimate was none too high; that it was -probable that I was far below a correct measurement, for -when there was so much sameness of height the judgment -could not very well be assisted by comparison, and hence -instrumental measurements alone could be relied on. Time -has demonstrated the correctness of their opinions. These -gentlemen were men of education and practical experience -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">90</span> -in observing the heights of objects of which measurement -had been made, and quietly reminded their auditors that it -was difficult to measure such massive objects with the eye -alone. That some author had said: “But few persons have -a correct judgment of height that rises above sixty feet.”</p> - -<p>I became somewhat earnest and enthusiastic on the subject -of the valley, and expressed myself in such a positive -manner that the “<i>enfant terrible</i>” of the company derisively -asked if I was given to exaggeration before I became -an “Indian fighter.” From my ardor in description, and -admiration of the scenery, I found myself nicknamed “Yosemity” -by some of the battalion. It was customary among -the mountain men and miners to prefix distinctive names. -From this hint I became less <i>expressive</i>, when conversing -on matters relating to the valley. My self-respect caused -me to talk less among my comrades generally, but with intimate -friends the subject was always an open one, and my -estimates of heights were never reduced.</p> - -<p>Major Savage took no part in this camp discussion, but -on our expressing a design to revisit the valley at some future -time, he assured us that there was a probability of our -being fully gratified, for if the renegades did not voluntarily -come in, another visit would soon have to be made by the -battalion, when we could have opportunity to measure the -rocks if we then desired. That we should first escort our -“captives” to the commissioners’ camp on the Fresno; that -by the time we returned to the valley the trails would be -clear of snow, and we would be able to explore to our satisfaction. -Casting a quizzing glance at me, he said: “The -rocks will probably keep, but you will not find all of these -immense <i>water-powers</i>.”</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding a little warmth of discussion, we cheerfully -wrapped ourselves in our blankets and slept, until -awakened by the guard; for there had been no disturbance -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">91</span> -during the night. The snow had fallen only to about the -depth of an inch in the valley, but the storm still continued.</p> - -<p>By early dawn “all ready” was announced, and we started -back without having seen any of the Indian race except -our useless guide and the old squaw. Major Savage rode -at the head of the column, retracing our trail, rather than -attempt to follow down the south side. The water was relatively -low in the early morning, and the fords were passed -without difficulty. While passing El Capitan I felt like saluting, -as I would some dignified acquaintance.</p> - -<p>The <i>cachés</i> below were yet smouldering, but the lodges -had disappeared.</p> - -<p>At our entrance we had closely followed the Indian trail -over rocks that could not be re-ascended with animals. To -return, we were compelled to remove a few obstructions of -poles, brush and loose rocks, placed by the Indians to prevent -the escape of the animals stolen and driven down. -Entire herds had been sometimes taken from the ranches or -their ranges.</p> - -<p>After leaving the valley, but little difficulty was encountered. -The snow had drifted into the hollows, but had not -to any extent obscured the trail, which we now found quite -hard. We reached the camp earlier in the day than we had -reason to expect. During these three days of absence from -headquarters, we had discovered, named and partially explored -one of the most remarkable of the geographical wonders -of the world. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">92</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Out of Provisions—A hurried Move—Mills where Indians take Their -Grists, and Pots in which they Boil their Food—Advance Movement -of Captain Dill—A Hungry Squad—Enjoyment—Neglect of Duty—Escape -of Indians—Following their Trail—A Sorrowful Captain—A -Mystery made Clear—Duplicity of the Chow-chillas—Vow-chester’s -Good-will Offering—Return of the Fugitives—Major Savage as Agent -and Interpreter.</p></blockquote> - -<p>On our arrival at the rendezvous on the South Fork the -officer in charge reported; “We are about out of grub.” -This was a satisfactory cause for a hurried movement; for -a short allowance had more terrors for men with our appetites -than severe duties; and most of us had already learned -that, even with prejudice laid aside, our stomachs would -refuse the hospitalities of the Indians, if it were possible -for them to share with us from their own scanty stores. -The Major’s experience prompted him at once to give the -order to break camp and move on for the camp on the -Fresno.</p> - -<p>Our mounted force chafed at the slowness of our march; -for the Indians could not be hurried. Although their cookery -was of the most primitive character, we were very much -delayed by the time consumed in preparing their food.</p> - -<p>While traveling we were compelled to accommodate our -movements to the capacities or inclinations of the women -and children. Captain Dill, therefore, with his company -was sent on ahead from the crossing of the South Fork, -they leaving with us what food they could spare. When -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">93</span> -Dill reached the waters of the Fresno about one hundred -“<i>captives</i>” joined him. These Indians voluntarily surrendered -to Captain Dill’s company, which at once hurried -them on, and they reached the commissioners at the Fresno.</p> - -<p>Captain Boling’s company and Major Savage remained -with the “Grand Caravan,” keeping out scouts and hunters -to secure such game as might be found to supply ourselves -with food. We had no anxiety for the safety or security -of our “captives;” our own subsistence was the important -consideration; for the first night out from Bishop’s -camp left us but scanty stores for breakfast. Our halting -places were selected from the old Indian camping -grounds, which were supplied with hoyas (holes or mortars). -These permanent mortars were in the bed-rock, or -in large detached rocks that had fallen from the cliffs or -mountains. These “hoyas” had been formed and used -by past generations. They were frequent on our route, -many of them had long been abandoned; as there was no -indications of recent uses having been made of them. From -their numbers it was believed that the Indians had once -been much more numerous than at that date.</p> - -<p>By means of the stone pestles with which they were provided, -the squaws used these primitive mills to reduce their -acorns and grass seeds to flour or meal. While the grists -were being ground, others built the fires on which stones -were heated.</p> - -<p>When red hot, these stones were plunged into baskets -nearly filled with water; this is continued until the water -boils. The stones are then removed and the acorn meal, or -a cold mixture of it, is stirred in until thin gruel is made; -the hot stones are again plunged into the liquid mass and -again removed. When sufficiently cooked, this “Atola” -or porridge, was poured into plates or moulds of sand, prepared -for that purpose. During the process of cooling, the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">94</span> -excess of water leaches off through the sand, leaving the -woody fibre tannin and unappropriated coarse meal in distinctive -strata; the edible portion being so defined as to be -easily separated from the refuse and sand. This preparation -was highly prized by them, and contrary to preconceived -ideas and information, all of the Indians I asked assured -me that the <i>bitter</i> acorns were the best when cooked. This -compound of acorn meal resembles corn starch blanc mange -in color, but is more dense in consistency. Although it -was free from grit, and comparatively clean, none of us -were able to eat it, and we were quite hungry. From this, -I was led to conclude that to relish this Indian staple, the -taste must be acquired while very young.</p> - -<p>Old Ten-ie-ya’s four wives, and other squaws, were disposed -to be quite hospitable when they learned that our -supply of provisions was exhausted. None of the command, -however, ventured to sample their acorn-jellies, grass-seed -mush, roasted grasshoppers, and their other delicacies; -nothing was accepted but the Piñon pine nuts, which were -generally devoured with a relish and a regret for the scarcity.</p> - -<p>Certain species of worms, the larvæ of ants and some -other insects, common mushrooms and truffles, or wood-mushrooms, -are prized by the Indian epicure, as are eels, -shrimps, oysters, frogs, turtles, snails, etc., by his white -civilized brother. Are we really but creatures of education?</p> - -<p>The <i>baskets</i> used by the Indians for boiling their food -and other purposes, as has been before stated, are made of -a tough mountain bunch-grass, nearly as hard and as strong -as wire, and almost as durable. So closely woven are they, -that but little if any water can escape from them. They -are made wholly impervious with a resinous compound -resembling the vulcanized rubber used by dentists. This -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">95</span> -composition does not appear to be in the least affected by hot -water. The same substance, in appearance at least, is used -by Mountain Indians in attaching sinews to bows, and -feathers and barbs to arrows.</p> - -<p>I endeavored to ascertain what the composition was, but -could only learn that the resin was procured from small -trees or shrubs, and that some substance (probably mineral) -was mixed with it, the latter to resist the action of -heat and moisture. I made a shrewd guess that pulverized -lava and sulphur (abundant east of the High Sierras) was -used, but for some cause I was left in ignorance. The Indians, -like all ignorant persons, ascribe remarkable virtues -to very simple acts and to inert remedies. Upon one occasion -a doctor was extolling the virtues of a certain root, -ascribing to it almost miraculous powers; I tried in vain to -induce him to tell me the name of the root. He stated -that the secret was an heir-loom, and if told, the curative -power of the plant would disappear; but he kindly gave -me some as a preventive of some imaginary ill, when lo! I -discovered the famous remedy to be the cowslip.</p> - -<p>After a delayed and hungry march of several days, we -halted near sundown within a few miles of the Commissioner’s -headquarters, and went into camp for the night. -The Indians came straggling in at will from their hunts on -the way, their trophies of skill with their bows being the -big California squirrels, rabbits or hares and quail. Our -more expert white hunters had occasionally brought in venison -for our use. We had ceased to keep a very effective -guard over our “captives;” none seemed necessary, as all -appeared contented and satisfied, almost joyous, as we neared -their destination on the Fresno.</p> - -<p>The truth is, we regarded hostilities, so far as these Indians -were concerned, as ended. We had voted the peace -policy a veritable success. We had discussed the matter in -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">96</span> -camp, and contrasted the lack of spirit exhibited by these -people with what we knew of the warlike character of the -Indians of Texas and of the Northwestern plains. In these -comparisons, respect for our captives was lost in contempt. -“The noble red man” was not here represented. The only -ones of the Pacific Slope, excepting the Navahoes, Pimas and -Maricopahs, that bear any comparison with the Eastern -tribes for intelligence and bravery, are the You-mahs of the -Colorado river, the Modocs, and some of the Rogue and -Columbia river tribes, but none of these really equal the -Sioux and some other Eastern tribes.</p> - -<p>Hardly any attention had been paid to the captives during -the preceding night, except from the guard about our -own camp; from a supposition that our services could well -be spared. Application was therefore made by a few of us, -for permission to accompany the Major, who had determined -to go on to the Fresno head-quarters. When consent -was given, the wish was so generally expressed, that Captain -Boling with nine men to act as camp guard, volunteered to -remain, if Major Savage would allow the hungry “boys” to -ride with him. The Major finally assented to the proposition, -saying: “I do not suppose the Indians can be driven -off, or be induced to leave until they have had the feast I -promised them; besides, they will want to see some of the -commissioner’s finery. I have been delighting their imaginations -with descriptions of the presents in store for them.”</p> - -<p>When the order was passed for the hungry squad to fall -in, we mounted with grateful feelings towards Captain Boling, -and the “boys” declared that the Major was a trump, -for his consideration of our need. With the prospect of a -good “square” meal, and the hope of a genial “smile” from -our popular commissary, the time soon passed, and the distance -seemed shortened, for we entered the Fresno camp -before our anticipations were cloyed. Head-quarters was -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">97</span> -well supplied with all needful comforts, and was not totally -deficient in luxuries. Our Quarter-Master and Commissary -was active in his duties, and as some good women say of -their husbands, “He was a good provider.” We had no -reason to complain of our reception; our urgent requirements -were cheerfully met. The fullness of our entertainment -did not prevent a good night’s rest, nor interfere with -the comfortable breakfast which we enjoyed. While taking -coffee, the self denial of Captain Boling and his volunteer -guard was not forgotten. Arrangements were made to furnish -the best edible and potable stores, that could be secured -from our conscientious and prudent commissary. We were -determined to give them a glorious reception; but—the -Captain did not bring in his captives! Major Savage sent -out a small detachment to ascertain the cause of the delay. -This party filled their haversacks with comforts for the -“Indian guard.” After some hours of delay, the Major became -anxious to hear from Captain Boling, and began to -be suspicious that something more serious than the loss of -his animals, was the cause of not sending in a messenger, -and he ordered out another detachment large enough to -meet any supposed emergency. Not far from camp, they -met the Captain and his nine men (the “<i>Indian guard</i>”) -and <i>one</i> Indian, with the relief party first sent out. Our -jovial Captain rode into “Head-quarters” looking more crest -fallen than he had ever been seen before. When asked by -the Major where he had left the Indians, he blushed like -a coy maiden and said: “They have all gone to the mountains, -but the one I have with me.”</p> - -<p>After Captain Boling had made his report to the Major, -and made all explanations to the commissioners, and when -he had refreshed himself with an extra ration or two of the -potable liquid, that by special stipulation had been reserved -for the “Indian Guard,” something of his old humor returned -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">98</span> -to him, and he gave us the details of his annoyances -by the breach of trust on the part of “our prisoners.”</p> - -<p>The Captain said: “Soon after you left us last night, one -of my men, who was out hunting when we camped, came -in with a deer he had killed just at the dusk of the evening. -From this we made a hearty supper, and allowed the -youth who had helped to bring in the deer to share in the -meat. The Indian cooked the part given to him at our -fire, and ate with the avidity of a famished wolf. This excited -comment, and anecdotes followed of the enormous -appetites displayed by some of them. The question was -then raised, ‘how much can this Indian eat at one meal?’ -I suggested that a fair trial could not be had with only one -deer. Our hunter said he would give him a preliminary -trial, and when deer were plenty we could then test -his full capacity, if he should prove a safe one to bet on. -He then cut such pieces as we thought would suffice for our -breakfast, and, with my approval, gave the remainder to his -boy, who was anxiously watching his movements. I consented -to this arrangement, not as a test of his capacity, for -I had often seen a hungry Indian eat, but as a reward for -his services in bringing in the deer on his shoulders. He -readily re-commenced his supper, and continued to feast until -every bone was cracked and picked. When the last -morsel of the venison had disappeared he commenced a -doleful sing-song, ‘Way-ah-we-ha-ha, Wah-ah-we-ha-ha’ -to some unknown deity, or, if I was to judge from my ear -of the music, it must have been his prayer to the devil, for -I have heard that it is a part of their worship. His song was -soon echoed from the camp where all seemed contentment. -After <i>consoling</i> himself in this manner for some time he -fell asleep at our fire.</p> - -<p>“The performance being over, I told my men to take their -sleep and I would watch, as I was not sleepy; if I wanted -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">99</span> -them I would call them. I then thought, as Major Savage -had declared, the Indians could scarcely be driven off, until -they had had their feast and the presents they expected -to have given them. I sat by the fire for a long time -cogitating on past events and future prospects, when thinking -it useless to require the men to stand guard, I told them -to sleep. Moving about and seeing nothing but the usual -appearance, I decided it to be unneccessary to exercise any -further vigilance, and told one of the men, who was partially -aroused by my movements, and who offered to get -up and stand guard, that he had better lie still and -sleep. Toward morning I took another round, and finding -the Indian camp wrapped in apparently profound slumber, -I concluded to take a little sleep myself, until daylight. -This now seems unaccountable to me, for I am extremely -cautious in my habits. Such a breach of military discipline -would have subjected one of my men to a court-martial. -I confess myself guilty of neglect of duty; I -should have taken nothing for granted.</p> - -<p>“No one can imagine my surprise and mortification when -I was called and told that the Indian camp was entirely deserted, -and that none were to be seen except the one asleep -by our camp fire. My indifference to placing a guard over -the Indian camp will probably always be a mystery to me, -but it most likely saved our lives, for if we had attempted -to restrain them, and you know us well enough to believe -we would not have let them off without a fight; they would -probably have pretty well used us up. As it was, we did -not give them up without an effort. We saddled our horses -and started in chase, thinking that as while with us, their -women and children would retard their progress, and that -we would soon overtake them. We took the young brave -with us, who had slept by our fire. He knew nothing of -the departure of his people, and was very much alarmed, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">100</span> -as he expected we would at once kill him. I tried to make -him useful in following their trail; he by signs, gave me to -understand he did not know where they had gone, and -seemed unwilling to take the trail when I pointed it out to -him. He evidently meant to escape the first opportunity. -I kept him near me and treated him kindly, but gave him -to understand I should shoot him if he tried to leave me.</p> - -<p>“We pursued until the trail showed that they had scattered -in every direction in the brushy ravines and on the rocky -side of a mountain covered with undergrowth, where we -could not follow them with our animals. Chagrined and -disgusted with myself for my negligence, and my inability -to recover any part of my charge, and considering farther -pursuit useless, we turned about and took the trail to head-quarters -with our one captive.”</p> - -<p>Major Savage took the youngster under his charge, and -flattered him by his conversations and kindly treatment. -The Commissioners lionized him somewhat; he was gaily -clothed and ornamented, loaded with presents for his own -family relations, and was given his liberty and permitted to -leave camp at his leisure, and thus departed the last of the -“grand caravan” of some three hundred and fifty “captives,” -men, women and children, which we had collected -and escorted from the mountains.</p> - -<p>The sight of the one hundred brought to them by Captain -Dill, and his report that we were coming with about -three hundred and fifty more, aroused sanguine hopes in the -commission that the war was over, and that their plans had -been successful. “Now that the <i>prisoners</i> have fled,” we -asked, “What will be done?”</p> - -<p>To a military man, this lack of discipline and precaution—through -which the Indians escaped—will seem unpardonable; -and an officer who, like our Captain, should leave -his camp unguarded, under any circumstances, would be -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">101</span> -deemed disgracefully incompetent. In palliation of these -facts, it may not occur to the rigid disciplinarian that Captain -John Boling and the men under him—or the most of -them, had not had the advantages of army drill and discipline. -The courage of these mountain-men in times of -danger was undoubted; their caution was more apt to be -displayed in times of danger to others, than when they -themselves were imperiled.</p> - -<p>In this case Captain Boling was not apprehensive of danger -to those under his charge. His excessive good nature -and good will toward his men prompted him to allow, even -to command them, to take the sleep and rest that an irregular -diet, and the labor of hunting while on the march, had -seemed to require. No one had a keener sense of his error -than himself. The whole command sympathized with him—notwithstanding -the ludicrous aspect of the affair—their -finer feelings were aroused by his extreme regrets. They -determined that if opportunities offered, he should have -their united aid to wipe out this stigma. Major Savage -was deceived by the child-like simplicity with which the -Indians had been talking to him of the feast expected, and -of the presents they would soon receive from the commissioners. -He did not suppose it possible that they would -make an attempt to escape, or such a number would not -have been left with so small a guard. We had men with -us who knew what discipline was, who had been trained to -obey orders without hesitation. Men who had fought under -Col. Jack Hays, Majors Ben McCullough and Mike -Chevallia, both in Indian and Mexican warfare, and they -considered themselves well posted. Even these men were -mistaken in their opinions. The sudden disappearance of -the Indians, was as much a surprise to them as to our officers.</p> - -<p>With a view to solving this mystery Vow-ches-ter was -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">102</span> -sent for from his camp near by, where all the treaty tribes -were congregated, and when questioned the Chief said that -during the night Chow-chilla runners had been in the camp, -and to him in person with their mouths filled with lies; they -had probably gone to the camp of those who were coming -in, and they were induced to leave. Evidently he felt assured -of the fact; but until questioned, his caution, Indian-like, -kept him silent. Vow-ches-ter’s sincerity and desire -for peace was no longer doubted. Those who were suspicious -of his friendship before were silenced, if not convinced, -when he volunteered to go out and bring in such of the fugitives -as he could convince of the good will of the commissioners. -The young Indian had not yet left the camp, -but was found relating his adventures and good fortune, -and was directed to accompany Vow-ches-ter on his mission -of good will. The Chief was instructed to give positive -assurances of protection against hostilities, if any were -threatened by the Chow-chillas. He was also instructed to -dispatch runners to aid his efforts, and was told to notify -all that the commissioners would not remain to be trifled -with; if they wished peace they must come in at once. -That if the commissioners should go away, which they soon -would do on their way south, no further efforts for peace -would be made. That the mountain men and soldiers of -the whites were angry, and would no longer take their word -for peace, but would punish them and destroy their supplies. -After a few days Vow-ches-ter came back with about -one hundred of the runaways; these were followed by -others, until ultimately, nearly all came back except Ten-ie-ya -and his people. All then in camp expressed a readiness -to meet for a grand council and treaty.</p> - -<p>The reasons given by those who returned for their flight, -were that just before daylight on the morning of their -departure Chow-chilla runners (as had been surmised by -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">103</span> -Vow-ches-ter) came to their camp with the report that they -were being taken to the plains, where they would all be -killed in order to evade the promises to pay for their lands, -and for revenge.</p> - -<p>In reply to the statements that they had been treated by -the whites as friends, the Chow-chillas answered sneeringly -that the whites were not fools to forgive them for killing -their friends and relatives, and taking their property, and -said their scouts had seen a large mounted force that was -gathering in the foot-hills and on the plains, who would -ride over them if they ventured into the open ground of the -reservation, or encampment at the plains. This caused -great alarm. They expected destruction from the whites, -and in the excitement caused by the Chow-chillas, threatened -to kill Captain Boling and his men, and for that purpose -reconnoitered the Captain’s camp. The Chow-chillas -dissuaded them from the attempt, saying: “The white men -always sleep on their guns, and they will alarm the white -soldiers below by their firing, and bring upon you a mounted -force before you could reach a place of safety.”</p> - -<p>The young fellow that was asleep in Boling’s camp was -not missed until on the march; his appearance among them -gaily clothed, after being kindly treated, very much aided -Vow-ches-ter in his statement of the object of the council -and treaty to be held. The runaways told the commissioners -that they felt very foolish, and were ashamed that they -had been so readily deceived; they also expressed a wish -that we would punish the Chow-chillas, for they had caused -all the trouble. The reception they received soon satisfied -them that they had nothing to fear. They were given food -and clothing, and their good fortune was made known to -other bands, and soon all of the tribes in the vicinity made -treaties or sent messengers to express their willingness to -do so, excepting the Chow-chillas and Yosemites. Even -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">104</span> -Ten-ie-ya was reported to have ventured into the Indian -quarter, but taking a look at the gaudy colored handkerchiefs -and shirts offered him in lieu of his ancient and well-worn -guernsey that he habitually wore, he scoffingly refused -the offers. Turning towards his valley home, he sorrowfully -departed; his feelings apparently irritated by the -evidences of vanity he saw in the gaudy apparel and weak -contentment of those he was leaving behind him. Major -Savage, who it was supposed would be the Indian agent at -the end of the war, was absent at the time of Ten-ie-ya’s -visit, but “the farmer” showed the old chief all proper respect, -and had endeavored to induce him to await the Major’s -return, but failed.</p> - -<p>Major Savage, though still in command of the battalion, -now devoted most of his time to the commissioners; and -the energy with which our campaigns had opened, seemed -to be somewhat abating. The business connected with the -treaties was transacted principally through his interpretation, -though at times other interpreters were employed. -The mission interpreters only translated the communications -made in the Indian dialects into Spanish; these were -then rendered into English by Spanish interpreters employed -by the commission.</p> - -<p>A pretty strong detail of men was now placed on duty -at head-quarters on the Fresno, principally drawn from -Captain Dill’s Company. Adjutant Lewis had really no -duties in the field, nor had he any taste or admiration for -the snowy mountains—<i>on foot</i>. His reports were written -up at head-quarters, as occasion required, and often long -after the events had transpired to which they related. I -was an amused observer upon one occasion, of Major Savage’s -method of making out an <i>official</i> report, Adjutant -Lewis virtually acting only as an amanuensis. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">105</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Campaign against the Chow-chillas—The Favorite Hunting Ground—A -Deer Hunt and a Bear <i>Chase</i>—An Accident and an Alarm—A Torch-light -Pow-wow—Indians Discovered—Captain Boling’s Speech—Crossing -of the San Joaquin—A Line of Battle, its Disappearance—Capture -of Indian Village—Jose Rey’s Funeral-pyre—Following the -Trail—A Dilemma—Sentiment and Applause—Returning to Camp—Narrow -Escape of Captain Boling.</p></blockquote> - -<p>Major Savage now advised a vigorous campaign against -the Chow-chillas. The stampeding of our captives was one -of the incentives for this movement; or at least, it was for -this reason that Captain Boling and his company most -zealously advocated prompt action. The commissioners -approved of the plan, and decided that as the meddlesome -interference of these Indians prevented other bands from -coming in, it was necessary, if a peace policy was to be -maintained with other tribes, that this one be made to feel -the power they were opposing; and that an expedition of -sufficient strength to subdue them, should be ordered immediately -to commence operations against them. Accordingly, -a force composed of B. and C. companies, Boling’s -and Dill’s, numbering about one hundred men, under command -of Major Savage, started for the San Joaquin River. -The route selected was by way of “Coarse Gold Gulch,” to -the head waters of the Fresno, and thence to the North -Fork of the San Joaquin.</p> - -<p>The object in taking this circuitous route, was to sweep -the territory of any scattered bauds that might infest it. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">106</span> -We made our first camp on the waters of “Coarse Gold -Gulch,” in order to allow the scouts time to explore in advance -of the command. No incident occurred here to claim -especial notice, but in the morning, while passing them, I -made a hasty examination of one of the “Figured Rocks” -to the left of the trail.</p> - -<p>I saw but little of interest, for at the time, I doubted the -antiquity of the figures. Subsequently, in conversation with -Major Savage he said that the figures had probably been -traced by ancient Indians, as the present tribes had no -knowledge of the representations. I afterwards asked Sandino -and other Mission Indians concerning them, but none -could give me any information. The scouts sent out were -instructed to rendezvous near a double fall on the north -fork of the San Joaquin in a little valley through which the -trail led connecting with that of the north fork, as grass -would there be found abundant.</p> - -<p>Major Savage was familiar with most of the permanent -trails in this region, as he had traversed it in his former -prospecting tours. As we entered the valley selected for -our camping place, a flock of sand-hill cranes rose from it -with their usual persistent yells; and from this incident, -their name was affixed to the valley, and is the name by -which it is now known.</p> - -<p>The scouts, who were watching on the trail below, soon -discovered and joined us. “It is a little early for camping,” -the Major said; “but at this season, good grass can -only be found in the mountains in certain localities. Here -there is an abundance, and soap root enough to wash a regiment.”</p> - -<p>We fixed our camp on the West side of the little valley, -about half a mile from the double falls. These falls had -nothing peculiarly attractive, except as a designated point -for a rendezvous. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">107</span></p> - -<p>The stream above the falls was narrow and very rapid, but -below, it ran placidly for some distance through rich meadow -land. The singularity of the fall was in its being double; -the upper one only three or four feet, and the lower one, -which was but a step below, about ten or twelve feet. In -my examination of the locality, I was impressed with the -convenience with which such a water-power could be utilized -for mechanical purposes, if the supply of water would but -prove a permanent one.</p> - -<p>From this camp, new scouts were sent out in search of -Indians and their trails; while a few of us had permission -to hunt within a mile of camp. While picketing our animals, -I observed the flock of sand-hill cranes again settling -down some way above us, and started with Wm. Hays to -get a shot at them. We were not successful in getting -within range; having been so recently alarmed, they were -suspiciously on the look out, and scenting our approach, -they left the valley. Turning to the eastward, we were -about entering a small ravine leading to the wooded ridge -on the Northwest side of the Fork, when we discovered -two deer ascending the slope, and with evident intention of -passing through the depression in the ridge before us.</p> - -<p>They were looking <i>back</i> on their trail, assurance enough -that we had not been seen. We hurriedly crept up the ravine -to head them off, and waited for their approach. Hays -became nervous, and as he caught a glimpse of the leader, -he hastily said, “Here they come—both of them—I’ll take -the buck!” Assenting to his arrangement, we both fired -as they rose in full view. The doe fell almost in her -tracks. The buck made a bound or two up the ridge and -disappeared. While loading our rifles Hays exclaimed, as -if in disgust, “A miss, by jingoes! that’s a fact.” I replied, -“not so, old fellow, you hit him hard; he switched his -tail desperately; you will see him again.” We found him -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">108</span> -dead in the head of the next ravine, but a few rods off. -Hanging up our game to secure it until our return with -horses, we started along the slope of the ridge toward camp. -Hays was in advance, stopping suddenly, he pointed to -some immense tracks of grizzlies, which in the soft, yielding -soil appeared like the foot prints of huge elephants, and -then hastily examining his rifle and putting a loose ball in -his mouth (we had no fixed ammunition in those days, except -the old paper cartridges), started on the tracks. At -first I was amused at his excited, silent preparations and -rapid step, and passively accompanied him. When we had -reached a dense under-growth, into which the trail led, and -which he was about to enter, I halted and said: “I have -followed this trail as far as I design to go. Hays, it is -madness for us to follow grizzlies into such a place as that.” -Hays turned, came back, and said in an excited manner, -“I didn’t suppose you would show the white feather with -a good rifle in your hands; Chandler gives you a different -character. You don’t mean to say you are afraid to go in -there with me; we’ll get one or two, sure.”</p> - -<p>I was at first inclined to be angry, but replied, “Hays, I -am much obliged to you for the good opinion you have had -of me, but I know what grizzlies are. <i>I am afraid of -grizzlies unless I have every advantage of them</i>; and don’t -think it would be any proof of courage to follow them in -there.” Hays reached out his hand as he said: “If that is -your corner stake, we will go back to camp.” We shook -hands, and that question was settled between us. Afterwards -Hays told of his experience among Polar bears, and I -rehearsed some of mine among cinnamon and grizzly bears, -and he replied that after all he thought “we had acted -wisely in letting the latter remain undisturbed. When in -the brush they seemed to know their advantage, and were -more likely to attack, whereas at other times, they would -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">109</span> -get out of your way, if they could.” I replied by asking: -“Since you know their nature so well, why did you want to -follow them into the brush?” He retorted, “Simply because -I was excited and reckless, like many another man.”</p> - -<p>Taking the back trail, we soon reached camp, and with -our horses brought in the game before dark. While entering -camp, several of our men rushed by with their rifles. -Looking back across the open valley on our own trail, I saw -a man running toward us as if his life depended on his -speed. His long hair was fairly streaming behind as he -rushed breathless into camp, without hat, shoes or gun. -When first seen, the “boys” supposed the Chow-chillas -were after him, but no pursuers appeared in sight. As -soon as he was able to talk, he reported that he had left the -squad of hunters he had gone out with, and was moving -along the edge of a thicket on his way to camp, when he -struck the trail of three grizzlies. Having no desire to encounter -them, he left their trail, but suddenly came upon -them while endeavoring to get out of the brush.</p> - -<p>Before he could raise his rifle, they rushed toward him. -He threw his hat at the one nearest, and started off at a -lively gait. Glancing back, he saw two of them quarreling -over his old hat; the other was so close that he dare not -shoot, but dropped his gun and ran for life.</p> - -<p>Fortunately, one of his shoes came off, and the bear -stopped to examine and tear it in pieces, and here no doubt -discontinued the chase, as he was not seen afterwards, though -momentarily expected by the hunter in his flight to camp.</p> - -<p>The hero of this adventure was a Texan, that was regarded -by those who knew him best as a brave man, but upon this -occasion he was without side arms, and, as he said, “was -taken at a disadvantage.” The Major joked him a little -upon his <i>continued</i> speed, but “Texas Joe” took it in good -part, and replied that the Major, “or any <i>other</i> blank fool, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">110</span> -would have run just as he did.” A few of us went back with -Joe, and found his rifle unharmed. The tracks of his pursuers -were distinctly visible, but no one evinced any desire -to follow them up.</p> - -<p>We considered his escape a most remarkable one.</p> - -<p>A little after dark all the scouts came in, and reported -that no Indians had been seen, nor very fresh signs discovered, -but that a few tracks were observed upon the San Joaquin -trail.</p> - -<p>The news was not encouraging, and some were a little despondent, -but as usual, a hearty supper and the social pipe -restored the younger men to their thoughtless gayety. My -recollections bring to mind many pleasant hours around the -camp-fires of the “Mariposa Battalion.” Many of the -members of that organization were men of more than ordinary -culture and general intelligence; but they had been -led out from civilization into the golden tide, and had acquired -a reckless air and carriage, peculiar to a free life in -the mountains of California.</p> - -<p>The beauty of the little valley in which we were camped -had so attracted my attention, that while seated by the camp-fire -in the evening, enjoying my meal, I spoke of it in the -general conversation, and found that others had discovered -a “claim” for a future rancho, if the subjection of the Indians -should make it desirable. The scouts mentioned the -fact of there being an abundance of game as far as they had -been, but that of course they dare not shoot, lest the Indians -might be alarmed. These men were provided with venison -by Hays and myself, while many a squirrel, jack rabbit, -quail and pigeon was spitted and roasted by other less -fortunate hunters. Our deer were divided among immediate -friends and associates, and Captain Boling slyly -remarked that “the Major’s appetite is about as good as an -Indian’s.” Major Savage seemed to enjoy the conversation -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">111</span> -in praise of this region, and in reply to the assertion that -this was the best hunting ground we had yet seen, said: -“Where you find game plenty, you will find Indians not -far off. This belt of country beats the region of the Yosemite -or the Poho-no Meadows for game, if the Indians -tell the truth; and with the exception of the Kern River -country, it is the best south of the Tuolumne River. It -abounds in grizzlies and cinnamon bears, and there are some -black bears. Deer are very plenty, and a good variety of -small game—such as crane, grouse, quail, pigeons, road-runners, -squirrels and rabbits—besides, in their season, water -fowl. This territory of the Chow-chillas has plenty of black -oak acorns (their favorite acorn), and besides this, there are -plenty of other supplies of bulbous roots, tubers, grasses -and clover. In a word, there is everything here for the -game animals and birds, as well as for the Indians.”</p> - -<p>I now thought I had a turn on the Major, for he was -quite enthusiastic, and I said: “Major, you have made out -another Indian Paradise; I thought you a skeptic.” With a -smile as if in remembrance of our conversation in the -Yosemite, he replied: “Doc, I don’t believe these Chow-chilla -devils will leave here without a fight, for they seem -to be concentrating; but we are going to drive them out -with a ‘flaming brand.’ I think we shall find some of them -to-morrow, if we expect good luck.” Turning to Captain -Boling he continued, “Captain, we must make an early -move in the morning; and to-morrow we must be careful -not to flush our game before we get within rifle-shot. You -had better caution the guards to be vigilant, for we may -have a visit from their scouts to-night, if only to stampede -our horses.”</p> - -<p>Taking this as a hint that it was time to turn in, I rolled -myself in my blankets. My sleep was not delayed by any -thoughts of danger to the camp,—though I would have -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">112</span> -admitted the danger of loss of animals—but I was awakened -by a stir in camp, and from hearing the Major called.</p> - -<p>Sandino, the Mission Indian interpreter, had just come -in from head-quarters, guiding an escort that had been sent -for the Major. The Sergeant in command handed a letter -to Savage, who, after reading it at the camp fire, remarked -to Captain Boling, “the commissioners have sent for me to -come back to head-quarters; we will talk over matters in -the morning, after we have had our sleep.” He was snoring -before I slept again.</p> - -<p>In the morning Major Savage stated that he had been -sent for by the Commissioners to aid in treating with a delegation -of Kah-we-ah Indians sent in by Capt. Kuykendall, -and regretted to leave us just at that time, when we were -in the vicinity of the game we were after. That we would -now be under the command of Captain Boling, etc. The -Major made us a nice little speech. It was short, and was -the only one he ever made to us. He then drew an outline -map of the country, and explained to Captain Boling the -course and plans he had adopted, but which were to be varied -as the judgment of the Captain should deem to his -advantage. He repeatedly enjoined the Captain to guard -against surprise, by keeping scouts in advance and upon -flank.</p> - -<p>He then said he should leave Sandino with us, and told -me that Spencer and myself would be expected to act as -interpreters, otherwise Captain Boling could not make Sandino -available as a guide or interpreter, as he cannot speak -a word of English.</p> - -<p>“As surgeon to the expedition, I will see that you are -paid extra. The endurance of those appointed, has been -tried and found wanting; therefore I preferred to leave -them behind.” The Major then left us for head-quarters, -which he would reach before night. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">113</span></p> - -<p>Captain Boling crossed the North Fork below the falls, -but after a few horses had passed over the trail, the bottom -land became almost impassable. As I had noticed an old -trail that crossed just above the falls, I shouted to the rear -guard to follow me, and started for the upper crossing, -which I reached some little distance in advance. Spurring -my mule I dashed through the stream. As she scrambled -up the green sod of the slippery shore I was just opening -my mouth for a triumphant whoop, when the sod from the -overhanging bank gave way under the hind feet of the -mule, and, before she could recover, we slipped backwards -into the stream, and were being swept down over the falls. -Comprehending the imminent peril, I slipped from my saddle -with the coil of my “riata” clasped in hand (fortunately -I had acquired the habit of leaving the rope upon the mule’s -neck), and, by an effort, I was able to reach the shore with -barely length of rope enough to take one turn around a sappling -and then one or two turns around the rope, and by -this means I was able to arrest the mule in her progress, -with her hind legs projecting over the falls, where she remained, -her head held out of the water by the rope. I held -her in this position until my comrades came up and relieved -me, and the mule from her most pitiable position. -This was done by attaching another rope, by means of -which it was drawn up the stream to the shore, where she -soon recovered her feet and was again ready for service. -Not so my medicines and surgical instruments, which were -attached to the saddle.</p> - -<p>While Captain Boling was closing up his scattered command, -I took the opportunity to examine my damaged stores -and wring out my blankets. Being thus engaged, and out -of sight of the main column, they moved on without us. -I hastily dried my instruments, and seeing that my rifle -had also suffered, I hastily discharged and reloaded it. We -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">114</span> -passed over the stream below the falls, and were galloping -to overtake the command, when I discovered a detachment -with Captain Boling at the head, riding rapidly up the trail -toward us. As we met, the Captain returned my salutation -with “Hallo, Doc., what the devil is the matter?” I -explained the cause of our delay and the reason for the discharge -of my rifle, when the Captain said: “We heard the -report of your rifle, and I thought you were about to have -a quilting party of your own, for I knew you would not -waste lead foolishly, so came back to have a hand in the -game.” I apologized for firing without orders and for causing -anxiety; but said, that to be frank, I had thought that -my rifle being so wet, would only “squib.” He good humoredly -replied, “I am glad I found nothing worse, for you -have had a narrow escape, and I think we had now better -keep closed up.”</p> - -<p>We soon overtook the command which was following the -main trail to the upper San Joaquin. Crossing the affluent -tributaries of the North Fork, we finally reached a -branch now known as the Little San Joaquin. Here we -again camped for the third time since leaving head-quarters. -Lieutenant Chandler and a few of our most experienced -scouts were detailed and sent out on duty. Captain Boling -with a small guard accompanied Chandler for some distance -out on the trail, and after exploring the vicinity of the -camp and taking a look at “Battle Mountain” to the westward -of us, returned without having discovered any fresher -signs than had been seen by the scouts. That night the -camp-guard was strengthened and relieved every hour, that -there might be no relaxation of vigilance. A little before -daybreak, Lieutenant Chandler and his scouts came in, and -reported that they had discovered a number of camp fires, -and a big pow-wow, on the main San Joaquin river. Satisfied -that Indians were there assembled in force, and that -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">115</span> -they were probably holding a war-dance, they returned at -once to report their discovery.</p> - -<p>The camp was quietly aroused, and after a hasty breakfast -in the early dawn, we mounted. Before giving the -order to march, Captain Boling thought it advisable to give -us a few words of caution and general orders in case we -should suddenly meet the enemy and engage in battle. -Thinking it would be more impressive if delivered in a formal -manner, he commenced: “Fellow citizens!” (a pause,) -“fellow soldiers!” (a longer pause,) “comrades,” tremulously; -but instantly recovering himself, promptly said: “In -<i>conclusion</i>, all I have to say, boys, is, that I hope I shall -fight better than I speak.” The Captain joined with his -“fellow citizens” in the roar of laughter, amidst which he -gave the order “march,” and we started for the San Joaquin -at a brisk trot.</p> - -<p>No better or braver man rode with our battalion. His -popularity was an appreciation of his true merit. On -this occasion he was conscious of the responsibility of his -position, and, for a moment his modesty overcame him. -Although his <i>speech</i> lacked the ready flow of language, it -eloquently expressed to his men the feelings of their Captain, -and we comprehended what he designed to say.<a id="FNanchor_11" href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">11</a> A -short ride brought us in sight of the main river. As we -drew near to it a party of about one hundred Indians were -discovered drawn up as if to give us battle, but we soon -found their line had been established on the <i>opposite</i> side -of the stream! while the swelling torrent between us seemed -impassable. Our scouts discovered a bark rope stretched -across the river, just above the mouth of the South Fork, -which had been quite recently used. Their scouts had undoubtedly -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">116</span> -discovered our rapid approach, and in their haste -to report the fact, had neglected to remove this rope, by -means of which, the crossing was made. The Indians of -Northern climes are equally expert in crossing streams. -In winter, they sprinkle sand upon the smooth ice, in order -to cross their unshod ponies. The discovery of the rope being -reported to Captain Boling, he proposed to utilize it by -establishing a temporary ferry of logs. On examination, the -rope was found to be too slender to be of practical use, but -was employed to convey across a stronger one, made from -our picket ropes or “riatas,” tied together and twisted.</p> - -<p>Two of our best swimmers crossed the river above the -narrows, and pulled our rope across by means of the bark -one. To protect the men on the opposite side, Captain -Middleton, Joel H. Brooks, John Kenzie and a few other -expert riflemen, stood guard over them. A float was made -of dry logs while the rope was being placed in position, and -this was attached to the one across the stream by means of -a rude pulley made from the crotch of a convenient sapling. -By this rude contrivance, we crossed to and fro without accident. -The horses and baggage were left on the right -bank in charge of a small but select camp guard. As we -commenced the ascent of the steep acclivity to the table -above, where we had seen the Indians apparently awaiting -our approach, great care was taken to keep open order. -We momentarily expected to receive the fire of the enemy. -The hill-side was densely covered with brush, and we cautiously -threaded our march up through it, until we emerged -into the open ground at the crest of the hill. Here, not -an Indian was in sight to welcome or threaten our arrival. -They had probably fled as soon as they witnessed our crossing. -Captain Boling felt disappointed; but immediately -sent out an advance skirmish line, while we moved in -closer order upon the village in sight, which we afterwards -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">117</span> -found to be that of Jose Rey. Arrived there, we found it -forsaken. This village was beautifully situated upon an elevated -table lying between the South Fork and the main -river. It overlooked the country on all sides except the -rear, which could have only been approached through the -rugged cañons of the forks. It would therefore have been -impossible for us to surprise it. We found that the Indians -had left nothing of value but the stores of acorns -near by. Captain Boling’s countenance expressed his feelings, -with regard to our lack of success. He ordered the -lodges to be destroyed with all the supplies that could be -discovered.</p> - -<p>While entering the village, we had observed upon a little -knoll, the remnant of what had been a large fire; a bed of -live coals and burning brands of manzanita-wood still remained. -The ground about it indicated that there had been -a large gathering for a burial-dance and feast, and for other -rites due the departed; and therefore, I surmised that there -had been a funeral ceremony to honor the remains of some -distinguished member of the tribe. I had the curiosity to -examine the heap and found that I was correct. On raking -open the ashes of the funeral-pyre, the calcined bones were -exposed, along with trinkets and articles of various kinds, -such as arrow-heads of different shapes and sizes, for the -chase and for warfare; a knife-blade, a metal looking-glass -frame, beads and other articles melted into a mass. From -these indications—having a knowledge of Indian customs—I -inferred that the deceased was probably a person of -wealth and distinction in Indian society. Calling Sandino -to the spot, I pointed out to him my discoveries. Devoutly -crossing himself, he looked at the mass I had raked from -the ashes, and exclaimed: “Jose Rey, ah! he is dead!” I -asked how he knew that it was the body of Jose Rey that -had been burned. He said: (picking up the knife-blade) -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">118</span> -“This was the knife of Jose Rey.” He then told me “that -a chief’s property was known to all of his people and to -many other tribes. That many had been here to take part -in the funeral ceremonies, and only a great chief would -have so many come to do honor to his remains; besides we -have known for a long time that he would die.” I reported -this statement to Captain Boling, who thought it was correct. -It was afterwards confirmed by some of the followers -of the dead chief.</p> - -<p>Sandino was or had been a Mission Indian, and prided -himself on being a good Catholic. I asked him why the -Indians burnt the bodies of their dead. He replied after -devoutly crossing himself, for no Indian will willingly speak -of their dead. “The Gentiles (meaning the wild Indians) -burn the bodies to liberate the spirit from it.” After again -crossing himself, “We being Christians by the favor of -God, are not compelled to do this duty to our dead. They -enter into the spirit-world through the virtue of the blood -of Christ;” then with his face gleaming with religious fervor, -he said, “Oh! is not this a great blessing—<i>no labor, -no pain, and where all have plenty</i>.” On a more intimate -acquaintance with Sandino, I found that he had an implicit -belief in all the superstitions of his race, but that the saving -grace of the blood of Christ was simply superior to their -charms and incantations.</p> - -<p>My experience among other Indians, particularly the -Sioux, Chippewa, and other tribes that have long had missionaries -among them, leads me to the conclusion that Sandino’s -views of Christianity will not be found to differ -materially from those of many others <i>converted</i>. I afterwards -had a much more satisfactory conversation with -“Russio,” who verified Sandino’s statement concerning -their belief, and object in burning their dead. This Chief -also gave me in detail some of their traditions and mythologies, -which I shall reserve for future description. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">119</span></p> - -<p>Our scouts reported that the fresh trails followed by them -led to the main trail up the cañon of the river. Everything -having been set on fire that would burn, we followed -in pursuit toward the “High Sierras.” Before starting the -scouts that had gone up the South Fork cañon were called -in, and we lightened our haversacks by taking a hasty but -hearty lunch. We followed the trail continuously up, -passed a rocky, precipitous point, that had terminated in a -ridge at the rear of the village, and pursuing it rapidly for -several miles, we suddenly found that the traces we had been -following disappeared. We came to a halt, and retracing -our steps, soon found that they had left the trail at some -bare rocks, but it was impossible to trace them farther -in any direction. Sandino expressed the opinion that the -Indians had crossed the river; and pointing across the -foaming rapids said: “They have gone there!” He was -denounced by the scouts for this assertion, and they swore -that “an otter would drown if he attempted to swim in -such a place.” Captain Boling asked: “Is he a coward -afraid of an ambush, or is he trying to shield his people by -discouraging our advance?” After Spencer and myself had -talked with him a few moments, we both expressed our -faith in his loyalty, and told the Captain that we thought -he was sincere in the opinion expressed, that the Indians -had crossed to the other side. I stated that I did not think -it impossible for them to do so, as they were all most excellent -swimmers. That I had seen the Yumas of the Colorado -river dive, time after time, and bring up fish caught -with their bare hands, and perform other seemingly impossible -feats. I would not, therefore, denounce Sandino -without some proof of treachery. Captain Boling was not -convinced, however, by my statements. It was decided -that the Chow-chil-las had not crossed the river, and that -we should probably find their trail further on. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">120</span></p> - -<p>With scouts in advance, we resumed our march up the -cañon. The trail was rough, and, in places, quite precipitous; -but we followed on until reaching a point in the cañon -where we should expect to find “<i>signs</i>,” for there was no -choice of routes, but this only trail up the cañon had not -been used by any one; and the advance were found awaiting -the Captain’s arrival at the gorge. The Captain was -puzzled, and ordered a halt. A council was held, about as -satisfactory as the other had been, but all agreed in the conclusion -that the Indians had beaten us in wood craft, and -had artfully thrown us from their trail; though their signal -fires were still to be seen at intervals on the high rocky -points of the river. This was a common mode of communication -among them. By a peculiar arrangement of these -fires during the night, and by the smoke from them during -the day, they are able to telegraph a system of secret correspondence -to those on the look out. An arrow, shot into -the body of a tree at a camp ground, or along a trail; or -the conspicuous arrangement of a bent bush or twig, often -shows the direction to be traveled. A bunch of grass, -tied to a stick and left at the fork of a stream or trail, or at -a deserted camp, performed the same service. Upon the -treeless deserts or plains, a mark upon the ground, by camp -or trail, gave the required information; thus proving that -these people possess considerable intelligent forethought.</p> - -<p>After looking at the signal fires for some time, Captain -Boling said: “Gentlemen, there is one thing I can beat -these fellows at, and that is in building fires. We will go -back to the crossing, and from there commence a new campaign. -We will build fires all over the mountains, so that -these Indians will no longer recognize their own signals. -We will make ours large enough to burn all the acorns and -other provender we can find. In a word, we are forced into -a mode of warfare unsuited to my taste or manhood, but -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">121</span> -this campaign has convinced me of the utter folly of attempting -to subdue them unless we destroy their supplies -of all kinds. Gentlemen, you can take my word for it, they -do not intend to fight us, or they would have tried to stop -us at the crossing, where they had every advantage.”</p> - -<p>There is no point in the mountains more easy to defend -than their village. It was located most admirably. If they -had the fight in them, that was claimed by Major Savage -and the Indians at head-quarters, we could never have -crossed the river or approached their village. Their courage -must have died with Jose Rey. His courage must have -been supposed to be that of the tribe. They have become -demoralized, being left without the energy of the chief. -Their warlike nature is a humbug. Talk about these Indians -defeating and driving back the Spanish Californians, -after raiding their ranches, as has been told! If they did, -they must have driven back bigger cowards than themselves, -who have run away without even leaving a trail by which -they can be followed. I don’t believe it.” The Captain -delivered this serio-comic discourse while seated on a rock, -with most inimitable drollery; and at my suggestion that -they might perhaps yet show themselves, he replied rather -impatiently: “Nonsense, they will not exhibit themselves -to-day!” and with this convincing remark, he ordered our -return.</p> - -<p>As we filed away from the narrow gorge, those left in -rear reported “Indians!” Instinctively turning, we discovered -on the <i>opposite</i> side of the river, a half dozen or -more, not encumbered with any kind of garment. A halt -was called, and Chandler and a number of others instantly -raised their rifles for a shot. They were within range, for -the cañon was here quite narrow, but the Captain promptly -said: “No firing, men! I am anxious for success, but would -rather go back without a captive, than have one of those -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">122</span> -Indians killed, unless,” he added after a moment’s pause, -“they are fools enough to shoot at us.” Just at the conclusion -of this order, and as if in burlesque applause of the -sentiment expressed by the Captain, the savages commenced -slapping their naked swarthy bodies in a derisive -manner.</p> - -<p>The laugh of our men was parried by the Captain, and -although annoyed by this unexpected demonstration, he -laughingly remarked that he had never before been so <i>peculiarly</i> -applauded for anything he had ever said. The absurdity -of the scene restored us all to a better humor. -Again the order was given to march, and we resumed our -course down the cañon, with the renewed demonstrations -of the Indians. The orders of the Captain alone prevented -a return <i>salute</i>, which would have promptly checked their -offensive demonstrations.</p> - -<p>At the precipice, which we had so guardedly passed on -our way up the cañon, we came near losing our Captain. -In passing this locality he made a mis-step, and slipped towards -the yawning abyss at the foot of the cliff; but for a -small pine that had been “moored in the rifted rock,” no -earthly power could have saved him from being dashed to -the bottom. He fortunately escaped with some severe -bruises, a lacerated elbow and a sprained wrist. This accident -and our tired and disappointed condition, gave a more -serious appearance to our line, and a more sombre tone to -our conversations than was usual. We reached camp in a -condition, however, to appreciate the supper prepared by -our guard. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">123</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>A Camp Discussion—War or Police Clubs—Jack Regrets a Lost Opportunity—Boling’s -Soothing Syrup—A Scribe Criticises and Apologises—Indian -War Material and its Manufacture—The Fire-stick and its Sacred -Uses—Arrival at Head-quarters.</p></blockquote> - -<p>It was not until after we had partaken of a hearty supper -and produced our pipes, that the lively hum of conversation -and the occasional careless laughter indicated the -elastic temperament of some of the hardy, light-hearted, if -not light-headed, “boys,” while in camp. The guard was -duly detailed, and the signal given to turn in, but not authoritatively; -and tired as we were, many of us sat quite -late around the camp-fires on that evening. The excitements -and disappointments of our recent excursion did not -prove to be promoters of sleep; some of us were too tired -to sleep until we had somewhat rested from our unusual fatigue. -The events of the day—the <i>true method of subduing -Indians</i>, and the probable results of the plans proposed -by Captain Boling for future operations in this vicinity, -were the general topics of conversation among the different -groups. This general inclination to discuss the “peace policy” -of the commissioners and the plans of our officers, did -not arise from anything like a mutinous disposition, nor from -any motives having in view the least opposition to any of -the measures connected with the campaign in which we were -then engaged. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">124</span></p> - -<p>We had expected that this tribe would resist our invasion -of their territory and show fight. In this we had been disappointed. -The self-confident and experienced mountain -men, and the ex-rangers from the Texan plains, felt annoyed -that these Indians had escaped when almost within range -of our rifles. Our feelings—as a military organization—were -irritated by the successful manner in which they had -eluded our pursuit, and thrown us from their trail. <i>We -had been outwitted by these ignorant Indians</i>; but as individuals, -no one seemed inclined to acknowledge it; our -lack of success was attributed to the restraints imposed on -the free movements of our organization by orders of the -commissioners. Although none designed to censure our -Captain for his failure, the free speech intimations, that we -might have been successful, if Major Savage had remained -to aid us with his knowledge, was not soothing to the Captain’s -already wounded pride. The popularity of Captain -Boling was not affected by our camp-fire discussion. Had -a charge, or intimation even, been made by any one of incapacity -or neglect of duty in our free expressions, the personal -safety of the individual would have been immediately -endangered; although no excess of modesty was observed -in expressing opinions. Lieut. Chandler was at our own -fire, and our officers talked over the solution of the enigma -in a quiet conversational tone. The usual cheerful countenance -of the Captain had a more serious expression. His -attention was as much attracted to the groups around us, -as to the remarks of Lt. Chandler.</p> - -<p>The energetic Lieutenant was our most rigid disciplinarian -when on duty. His fearless impetuosity in the execution -of all his duties, made him a favorite with the more reckless -spirits; his blunt and earnest manner excited their admiration; -for, though possessed of a sublime egotism, he was -entirely free from arrogance. Instead of his usual cheerful -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">125</span> -and agreeable conversation, he was almost morosely taciturn; -he refilled his capacious mouth with choice Virginia, and -settled back against the wood-pile. After listening to us -for a while, he said: “I am heartily sick of this Quaker-style -of subduing Indians. So far,—since our muster-in—we -have had plenty of hard work and rough experience, -with no honor or profit attending it all. We might as well -be armed with clubs like any other police.” There was -none in our group disposed to dispute the assertion of -Chandler. As a body, we were anxiously desirous of bringing -the Indian troubles to a close as soon as it could be -practically accomplished. Many of us had suffered pecuniarily -from the depredations of these Mountain tribes, -and had volunteered to aid in subduing them, that we might -be able to resume our mining operations in peace. Many -of us had left our own profitable private business to engage -in these campaigns for the public good, expecting that a -vigorous prosecution of the war would soon bring it to a -close. I will here say that some sensational newspaper -correspondents took it upon themselves to condemn this -effort made by the settlers to control these mountain tribes, -which had become so dangerous; charging the settlers with -having excited a war, and to have involved the government -in an unneccessary expense, for the purpose of reaping -pecuniary benefits; and that our battalion had been organized -to afford occupation to adventurous idlers, for the pay -afforded. Knowing the ignorance that obtains in regard to -real Indian character, and the mistaken philanthropy that -would excuse and probably even protect and lionize murderers, -because they were <i>Indians</i>; but little attention was at -first paid to these falsely slanderous articles, until one was -published, so personally offensive, and with such a false -basis of statement, that Captain Boling felt it his duty to -call for the name of its author. His name was given by -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">126</span> -the editor of the paper on a formal demand being made. -The Captain then <i>intimated</i> through a friend, that a public -retraction of the article was desirable. In due time, the -Captain received a very satisfactory apology, and a slip of -a published retraction of the offensive correspondence. -The investigation developed the fact that the writer—who -was an Eastern philanthropist—had been played upon by -certain parties in Stockton, who had failed to get the contract -to supply the battalion.</p> - -<p>At an adjoining fire a long-haired Texan was ventilating -his professed experience in the management of Indians -“down thar.” Observing that Captain Boling was within -hearing of his criticism, he turned, and without any intentional -disrespect, said: “Cap., you orter a let me plunk -it to one o’ them red skins up in the cañon thar. I’d a bin -good for one, sure; and if I’d a had my way o’ treatin’ with -Injuns, Cap., I reckon I’d a made a few o’ them squawk by -this time.”</p> - -<p>Captain Boling was suffering from his bruises and -sprained wrist, and he evidently was not pleased to hear -these liberal criticisms, but knowing the element by which -he was surrounded, he did not forget the policy of conciliating -it in order to prevent any feelings of discontent from -arising so soon after having assumed full command. He -therefore quickly replied: “I have no especial regard for -these Chow-chillas; you are probably aware of that, Jack; but -the orders and instructions of the Commissioners will have to -be disregarded if we shoot them down at sight. It would -have been almost like deliberate murder to have killed those -naked Indians to-day, because, Jack, you know <i>just</i> what -you can do with that rifle of yours. If you had fired you -knew you was sure to kill; but the Indians did not know -the danger there was in coming inside your range. It was -lucky for the cowards that you did not shoot.” This allusion -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">127</span> -to the Texan’s skill with his rifle disposed of the subject -as far as he was concerned, for he “turned in,” while a -broad grin showed his satisfaction as he replied, “I reckon -you’re about on the right trail now, Cap,” and disappeared -under his blanket.</p> - -<p>Captain Boling sat for some time apparently watching -the blazing logs before him. He took no part in the discussion -of Indian affairs, which continued to be the engrossing -subject among the wakeful ones, whose numbers gradually -diminished until Spencer and one or two others beside -myself only remained at our fire. The Captain then -said: “I do not despair of success in causing this tribe to -make peace, although I cannot see any very flattering prospects -of our being able to corral them, or force an immediate -surrender. They do not seem inclined to fight us, and -we cannot follow them among the rocks in those almost -impassable cañons with any probability of taking them. -Bare-footed they rapidly pass without danger over slippery -rocks that we, leather-shod, can only pass at the peril of our -lives. My mishap of to-day is but a single illustration of -many that would follow were we to attempt to chase them -along the dizzy heights they pass over. Being lightly clad, -or not at all, they swim the river to and fro at will, and -thus render futile any attempt to pursue them up the river, -unless we divide the force and beat up on both sides at the -same time. I have thought this matter over, and have -reached the conclusion that, unless some lucky accident -throws them into our hands, I see but one course to pursue, -and that is to destroy their camps and supplies, and -then return to head-quarters.”</p> - -<p>After having had the bandages arranged on his swollen -arm he bade us good night, and sought such repose as his -bruised limbs and disappointed ambition would permit. -Having ended our discussions, we came to the sage conclusion -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">128</span> -that Captain Boling was in command, and duty required -our obedience to his orders. Satisfied with this decision, -we readily dropped off to sleep.</p> - -<p>The next morning the usual jocular hilarity seemed to -prevail in camp. A refreshing slumber had seemingly given -renewed vigor to the tired explorers of the rough trail up -the cañon. The camp guard assigned to duty at “our ferry” -were on duty during the night, so that the breakfast call -was promptly responded to with appetites unimpaired. -Captain Boling’s arm was dressed and found to be somewhat -improved in appearance, though very sore. He would not -consent to remain in camp, and ordered his horse to be saddled -after breakfast. Before the morning sun had risen we -were in our saddles, endeavoring to explore the region north -of the San Joaquin. Small detachments were detailed from -both companies to explore, on foot, up the South Fork, and -the territory adjacent. Upon the return of this command, -their report showed that quite a large number of Indians -had passed over that stream, though none were seen. A -considerable supply of acorns was found and destroyed by -this expedition; but after they left the oak table-land, near -the fork, they reported the country to the east to be about -as forbidding as that on the main river. Captain Boling -detailed a few footmen to scatter over the country on the -north side, to burn any <i>cachés</i> they might find, while we on -horseback swept farther north, towards the Black Ridge. -We found the soil soft and yielding, and in places it was -with difficulty that our weak, grass-fed animals could pass -over the water-soaked land, even after we had dismounted. -I thought this boggy ground, hard enough later in the season, -another obstacle to a successful pursuit, and so expressed -myself to the Captain. I told him that in ’49 I stayed over -night with Mr. Livermore of the Livermore Pass, and that -now I fully comprehended why he thought the mountain -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">129</span> -tribes could not be entirely subdued, because, as he said, -“they will not fight except sure of victory, and cannot be -caught.”</p> - -<p>Mr. Livermore said he had followed up several raiding -parties of Indians who were driving off stock they had -stolen from the Ranchos, but only upon one occasion did -they make a bold stand, when his party was driven back, -overcome by numbers. Captain Boling was silent for some -time, and then said: “Perhaps after all I have done these -Indians injustice in calling -them cowards; probably they -feel that they are not called -upon to fight and lose any of -their braves, when by strategy -they can foil and elude us. -Human nature is about alike -in war as in other things; it is -governed by what it conceives -to be its interest.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="i_129" src="images/i_129.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">CACHES OR INDIAN ACORN -STOREHOUSES.</p></div> - -<p>There were in the country -we passed over, some beautiful -mountain meadows and -most luxuriant forests, and -some of the sloping table lands -looked like the ornamental -parks of an extensive domain. -These oak-clad tables and -ridges, were the harvest fields -of the San Joaquin Indians, -and in their vicinity we found -an occasional group of deserted huts. These, with their -adjacent supplies of acorns, were at once given to the flames. -The acorns found and destroyed by the scouting parties, -were variously estimated at from eight hundred to one thousand -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">130</span> -bushels; beside the supply of Piñon pine-nuts and -other supplies hoarded for future use. The pine-nuts were -not all destroyed by fire; most of them were confiscated, -and served as a dessert to many a roast.</p> - -<p>From the total amount of acorns estimated to have been -destroyed, their supplies were comparatively small, or the -number of Indians on the San Joaquin had been, as in -other localities, vastly overrated. Our search was thoroughly -made—the explorations from day to day, extending -from our camps over the whole country to an altitude -above the growth of the oaks. During these expeditions, -not an Indian was seen after those noticed on the upper -San Joaquin; but fresh signs were often discovered and -followed, only to be traced to the rocky cañons above -where, like deceptive “<i>ignes fatui</i>,” they disappeared.</p> - -<p>Being allowed the largest liberty as surgeon to the expedition, -I had ample time to examine the various things -found in their camps, and obtain from Sandino all the information -I could concerning them. The stone arrow-heads -and their manufacture, especially interested me. I found -considerable quantities of the crude material from which -they were made, with many other articles brought from -other localities, such as resin, feathers, skins, pumice-stone, -salt, etc., used in the manufacture of their implements of -war, and for the chase as well as for domestic uses.</p> - -<p>At this time but few guns were in the possession of these -mountain tribes. Their chief weapons of war and for the -chase were bows and arrows. With these they were very -expert at short range, and to make their weapons effective -were disposed to lay in ambush in war, and upon the trails -of their game. Their bows were made from a species of -yew peculiar to the West, from cedar and from a spinated -evergreen tree, rare in Southern California, which, for want -of scientific classification, I gave the name of “nutmeg -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">131</span> -pine.” It bears a nut resembling in general appearance -that agreeable spice, while the covering or pulpy shell looks -very much like mace. The nut is, however, strongly impregnated -with resin. The leaves are long, hard, and so -sharp that the points will pierce the flesh like sharp steel. -The wood is stronger and more elastic than either the yew, -cedar or fir. It is susceptible of a fine polish. I made a -discovery of a small cluster of this species of tree at the -foot of the cascades in the cañon, two miles below the -Yosemite valley, while engaged in a survey of that locality.<a id="FNanchor_12" href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">12</a></p> - -<p>The shafts of their arrows are made of reeds, and from -different species of wood, but the choicest are made of what -is called Indian arrow-wood (Le Hamite). This wood is only -found in dark ravines and deep rocky cañons in the mountains, -as it seems to require dampness and shade. Its scarcity -makes the young shoots of a proper growth a very valuable -article of barter between the mountain tribes and -those of the valleys and plains. A locality in the Yosemite -valley once famous for its supply of this arrow-wood, was -the ravine called by the Yosemites “Le Hamite,” (as we -might say “the oaks,” or “the pines,”) but which is now -designated as “Indian Cañon.”</p> - -<p>Their arrow-shafts are first suitably shaped, and then polished -between pieces of pumice stone. This stone was also -used in fashioning and polishing their bows, spear-shafts -and war clubs. Pumice stone is found in abundance in the -volcanic regions of California and Oregon, and east of the -Sierra Nevada. The quality of the best observed by me, -was much finer and lighter than that seen in the shops as -an article of commerce. The arrow heads are secured to -the shaft by threads of sinew, and a species of cement used -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">132</span> -for that and other purposes. The arrow-heads made and in -most common use by the California Indians, as well as by -many other tribes in the mountain ranges of the West and -Southwest, are of the same shape and general appearance, -and of similar material, with the exception of obsidian and -old junk bottles, as the arrow heads found in all parts of the -United States. They have been generally supposed to have -been made and used by the pre-historic races that once inhabited -this continent. The bow and arrows were in common -use by the aborigines when America was first discovered, -and their use has been continued to the present time -among the tribes whose limited territories were not to any -extent intruded upon by the whites.</p> - -<p>The Indians of California, unlike those of Southern Mexico -and South America, who use the woorara (strychnos -toxifera), poison their arrow-heads with the poison of the -rattlesnake. Some animal’s liver is saturated with the poison -and left until it reaches a state of thorough decomposition, -when the barbs are plunged into the festering mass, -withdrawn and dried. The gelatinous condition of the liver -causes the poison to adhere to the stone, and the strength -of the poison is thus preserved for some days. Only those -arrow-heads that are inserted into a socket, and held in -place by cement, are thus poisoned. These are easily detached -after striking an object (the concussion shattering -the cement, and the play of the shaft loosening the barb), -and are left to rankle in the wound.</p> - -<p>According to Russio, however, this practice is now seldom -resorted to, except in revenge for some great or fancied -injury, or by the more malignant of a tribe, Indian policy -seeming to discountenance a former custom.</p> - -<p>The introduction of fire arms among them, has been from -the frontiers of civilization. The “<i>flint</i>,” or more properly -cherty rock, when first quarried, is brittle and readily split -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">133</span> -and broken into the desired shapes required, even with the -rude implements used by the Indians; though it is not -probable that any but themselves could use them, as considerable -skill seems to be required. The tool commonly -used in the manufacture of arrow-heads, is a species of -hammer or pick, made by fastening the sharp prong of a -deer’s horn to a long stick.</p> - -<p>With these instruments of various sizes laminated pieces -of rock are separated, such as slate, with quartz in filtrations, -and scales are chipped from rocks, volcanic and other -glass, with a skill that challenges admiration. Stone hammers, -or pieces of hard stone, were secured by withes and -used in some of the processes of flaking; and I have been -assured that steel implements have been stolen from the -miners and used for the same purpose, but I never saw -them used. Arrow-heads were found, made from bones, -from chert, obsidian or volcanic glass, and even old junk -bottles, obtained for the purpose, during their gushing days, -from the deserted camps of the libative miners.</p> - -<p>The most approved fire-arms are now found among many -of the western tribes, where but a few years ago bows and -arrows were in common use. Although these hereditary -implements of war and of the chase are almost wholly discarded, -occasionally an old-fashioned Indian may be seen, -armed with his bow and arrows, his fire-stick a foot long, -occupying the hole punctured in the lobe of one ear, and -his reed-pipe filling the like position in the other, while -his skunk-skin pouch contained his kin-ne-kin-nick, a piece -of spunk and dry charred cedar, on which a light was obtained -by rapid friction with his fire-stick. This method -of procuring fire, has, even among the Indians, been superseded -by the flint and steel, and they in turn by the labor-saving -friction matches.</p> - -<p>I have, however, recently witnessed the process of lighting -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">134</span> -a fire by this primitive process, among the priests of the -Winnebago and other eastern tribes, who still use and preserve -the fire-stick in making fire for their sacred rites, during -which they chant in a traditionary Indian dead language, -an interpretation of which they do not pretend they are able -to make. The priests told me that bad spirits would interfere -with their ministrations if they did not preserve the -customs of their fathers, and that the dead language made -their ceremonies all the more impressive and awe-inspiring -to their auditors.</p> - -<p>During our explorations -up the San Joaquin -and branches, -the rapidly melting -snow on the mountains -above flooded -the streams which we -were required to cross -in our excursions, and -we were often compelled -from this cause -to leave our horses -and proceed on foot; -hence our work was -toilsome and slow.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="i_134" src="images/i_134.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">FIRE STICK AS USED.</p></div> - -<p>As soon as Captain -Boling was satisfied -that we had accomplished, in this locality, all that could -be expected of his command, we started for head-quarters. -The route selected for our return was by way of “Fine -Gold Gulch,” and down the San Joaquin to a camp opposite -the site of Fort Miller, that was about being established -for the protection of the settlers. This was done -upon recommendation of the commissioners. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">135</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Starvation subdues the Chow-chillas, and the Result is Peace—Captain -Kuykendall’s Expeditions—An Attack—Rout and Pursuit—A Wise -Conclusion—Freezing out Indians—A wild Country—A terrific View—Yosemite -<i>versus</i> King’s River—Submission of the Indians South -of the San Joaquin—Second Expedition to Yosemite—Daring Scouts—Capture -of Indians—Naming of “Three Brothers.”</p></blockquote> - -<p>A few days after our return from the campaign against -the Chow-chil-las, a small delegation from a Kah-we-ah band -on King’s river was sent in by Captain Kuykendall, whose -energy had subdued nearly all of the Indians in his department. -The chief of this band informed Major Savage that -Tom-kit and Frederico, successors in authority to Jose Rey, -had visited his camp, and had reported that they were very -hungry. They came, they said, to hold a council. The -chief told the Major that he had advised them to come in -with him and make a treaty, but they refused. They said -the white man’s “medicine” was too powerful for them; -but if their great chief had not died, he would have driven -the white men from the mountains, for he was “a heap -wise.” The white soldiers had killed their great chief; they -had killed many of their best warriors; they had burned up -their huts and villages and destroyed their supplies, and -had tried to drive their people from their territory, and -they would kill their women and children if they did not -hide them where they could not be found; and much more -in a similar vein.</p> - -<p>A small supply of acorns had been given these fugitives, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">136</span> -and when the chief left, they had promised to return and -hear what the commissioners had said. Major Savage reported -this, and with the commissioners’ approval, decided -to return with the Kah-we-ah chief and meet in counsel -with the Chow-chil-las. He took with him sufficient “beef” -on foot to give the Indians a grand feast, which lasted several -days; during which time arrangements were completed -for treaties with all of the remaining bands of the Kah-we-ah -tribe, and with the Chow-chillas. The result of the -Major’s negotiations were in the highest degree satisfactory. -Captain Boling, however, claimed some of the honor, for, -said he, I defeated the Chow-chillas by <i>firing at long range</i>.</p> - -<p>This once turbulent and uncompromising tribe became -the most tractable of the mountain Indians. They were -superior in all respects to those of most other tribes. -They had intimate relations with the Monos, a light colored -race as compared with the Valley or Kah-we-ah tribe, -and were very expert in the manufacture and use of the -bow and arrow. The Mono’s had intermarried with the -Chow-chil-las, and they aided them in their intercourse -with the Pah-u-tes in their barter for salt, obsidian, lava and -other commodities. The Chow-chil-las now being disposed -of, and a treaty signed by the other tribes, it was decided -by the commissioners that our next expedition should be -against the Yo-sem-i-tes. This had been recommended by -Major Savage as the only practical method of effecting any -terms with their old Chief. Every inducement had been -offered them that had been successful with the others; but -had been treated with contempt. The liberal supplies of -beef they refused, saying they preferred horse-flesh. The -half-civilized garbs and gaudy presents tendered at the -agency were scorned by Ten-ie-ya as being no recompense -for relinquishing the freedom of his mountain home. Major -Savage announced that the expedition would start as -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">137</span> -soon as the floods had somewhat subsided, so that the -streams could be crossed. As for ourselves, we had learned -to take advantage of any narrow place in a stream, and by -means of ropes stretched for feet and hands, we crossed -without difficulty streams that we could not ford with -horses. As this delay would allow an opportunity for some -of the battalion to see to such private business as required -their attention, short furloughs were granted to those most -anxious to improve this occasion.</p> - -<p>While the companies of Captains Boling and Dill were -exploring the vicinities of the Merced and San Joaquin in -search of Indians, Captain Kuykendall, with the able support -of his Lieutenants and his company, were actively engaged -in the same duties south of the San Joaquin. Captain -Kuykendall vigorously operated in the valleys, foot-hills -and mountains of the King’s and Kah-we-ah rivers, and -those of the smaller streams south. The Indians of Kern -river, owing to the influence of a mission Chief, “Don-Vincente,” -who had a plantation at the Tehon pass, remained -peaceful, and were not disturbed. The success of Captain -Kuykendall’s campaigns enabled the commissioners to make -treaties with all the tribes within the Tulare valley, and -those that occupied the region south of the San Joaquin -river.</p> - -<p>Owing to lapse of time since these events, and other -causes, I am unable to do justice to him, or the officers and -men under him. My personal recollections of the incidents -of his explorations, were acquired while exchanging -stories around camp fires. Operating as they did, among -the most inaccessible mountains in California, with but one -company, they successfully accomplished the duties assigned -them.</p> - -<p>It was supposed that some of the tribes and bands among -whom they were sent were extremely hostile to the whites, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">138</span> -and that they would combine and resist their approach; but -after a single engagement on King’s river, the Indians -were put to flight without the loss of a man, and could not -be induced to hazard another like encounter. The plans of -operation were similar to those of Captains Boling and -Dill: the destruction of the camps of all who refused to -come in and have a talk with the commissioners. Captain -Kuykendall’s company found these people almost without -fire-arms and civilized clothing of any kind, and -depending wholly on their bows and arrows. Except in the -vicinity of King’s and Kah-we-ah rivers, the savages were -scattered over a large range of country. Their camps were -generally in the valleys and among the foot-hills; when -alarmed, they fled to the rocky cañons among the mountains. -In one of our conversations, during a visit of Captain -Kuykendall to the Fresno, he said: “When we first -started out, we learned from our scouts and guides, that a -large body of Indians had collected well up on King’s river. -Making a rapid march, we found, on arriving in sight, that -they were inclined to give us battle. We at once charged -into their camp, routed and killed a number, while others -were ridden down and taken prisoners. We followed the -fugitives, making a running fight, until compelled to leave -our horses, when they eluded pursuit. Not yet discouraged, -we followed on toward the head waters of the Kah-we-ah, -seeing occasionally, upon a ridge just ahead of us, -groups of Indians; but upon our reaching <i>that</i> locality, -they were resting on the <i>next ridge</i>; and as we came into -view, turned their backs upon us, applauding our efforts to -overtake them, in a very <i>peculiar</i> manner. They fled into -a worse country than anything before seen in our explorations, -and I soon perceived the folly of attempting to follow -them longer. As to this region east and southeast of the -termination of our pursuit, I have only this to say, that it -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">139</span> -is simply indescribable. I did not see any ‘<i>dead Indians</i>’ -after leaving the village, and during the pursuit, although -some of the boys were sure they had ‘fetched their man.’ It -is certain that a number were killed in the assault, but how -many, we were unable to ascertain, for upon our return, as -usual, the dead had been carried off. We lost no men in -the fight, and had but one wounded. The wound was very -painful, having been inflicted by one of the glass arrow-heads -that it is designed shall be left rankling in the wound; -but after that was extracted, the wound soon healed without -serious results.”</p> - -<p>After this chase on foot into the “High Sierras,” the -operations of Capt. Kuykendall were more limited, for, as he -had stated, he regarded it as the height of folly to attempt -to follow the lightly-armed and lighter clad “hostiles” with -cavalry, into their rocky mountain retreats. In the saddle, -except a few sailors in his company, his men felt at home, -and were willing to perform any amount of severe duty, -however dangerous or difficult it might be, but on foot, the -Texans, especially, were like “Jack ashore, without anything -to steer by.” When required to take a few days, provisions -and their blankets on their backs, their efforts, like those of -our command, were not very effective, so far as catching -the natives was concerned. These foot expeditions were -designed by the officers to keep the enemy alarmed, and in -the cold regions, while their supplies were being destroyed -by the mounted force ranging below. By this strategy, -Captain Kuykendall kept his men constantly occupied, and -at the same time displayed his genius as a soldier.</p> - -<p>His foot expeditions were generally made by a few enthusiastic -scouts, who were as much induced to volunteer -to perform this duty from a love of nature as from a desire -to fight. Here were found -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">140</span></p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i2">“The palaces of Nature, whose vast walls<br /></span> -<span class="i3">Have pinnacled in clouds their snowy scalps,<br /></span> -<span class="i3">And throned eternity in icy halls<br /></span> -<span class="i3">Of cold sublimity, where forms and falls<br /></span> -<span class="i3">The avalanche—the thunderbolt of snow!<br /></span> -<span class="i3">All that expands the spirit, yet appals,<br /></span> -<span class="i3">Gather around these summits, as to show<br /></span> -<span class="i2">How earth may pierce to Heaven, yet leave vain man below.”<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p>The stories told by the men in Kuykendall’s command -were received with doubts, or as exaggerations. Their descriptions -represented deeper valleys and higher cliffs than -had been seen and described by scouts of the other companies. -It was intimated by us, who had previously described -the region of the Yosemite, “that the man who told -the first story in California stood a poor chance.” Having -read Professor J. D. Whitney’s reports of that region, I can -better appreciate the reports of Captain Kuykendall and -those under him, of the character of the mountain territory -to which they had been assigned. Mr. Whitney, State Geologist, -in speaking of the geological survey of this vicinity, -says: “Of the terrible grandeur of the region embraced -in this portion of the Sierra, it is hardly possible to convey -any idea. Mr. Gardner, in his notes of the view from Mount -Brewer, thus enumerates some of the most striking features -of the scene: ‘Cañons from two to five thousand feet deep, -between thin ridges topped with pinnacles sharp as needles; -successions of great crater-like amphitheatres, with crowning -precipices, over-sweeping snow-fields and frozen lakes, -everywhere naked and shattered granite without a sign of -vegetation, except where a few gnarled and storm-beaten -pines <span class="nowrap">...</span> cling to the rocks in the deeper cañons; such -were the elements of the scene we looked down upon, while -cold gray clouds were drifting overhead.’”</p> - -<p>This description applies more properly to the territory -east of any point reached by Captain Kuykendall, but it -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">141</span> -verifies the statements made by him and those of some of -his men.</p> - -<p>While on our second expedition to the Yosemite, some of -Captain Kuykendall’s company, who had come to headquarters -and had been allowed the privileges, volunteered to accompany -our supply train, as they said: “To see what -kind of a country we were staying in.” One, an enthusiastic -lover of nature, said on his return: “The King’s river -country, and the territory southeast of it, beats the Yosemite -in terrific grandeur, but in sublime beauty you have got -us.” As the furloughs granted to the members of B. and -C. companies expired, all promptly reported for duty, and -preparations were completed for another campaign against -the Yosemites.</p> - -<p>Captain Dill, with part of his company, was retained -on duty at headquarters, while Lt. Gilbert with a detachment -of C. Company, was ordered to report for duty to Captain -Boling. Dr. Pfifer was placed in charge of a temporary -hospital, erected for the use of the battalion. Surgeon -Bronson had resigned, preferring the profits received from -his negro slaves, who were then mining on Sherlock’s creek -to all the romance of Indian warfare. The doctor was a -clever and genial gentleman, but a poor mountaineer. Doctor -Lewis Leach was appointed to fill the vacancy. Doctor -Black was ordered to duty with Captain Boling. Major -Savage offered me a position, and it was urged upon me -by Captain Boling, but having a number of men engaged -in a mining enterprise, in which Spencer and myself -were interested, we had mutually agreed to decline all office. -Beside this, when Mr. Spencer and myself entered into service -together, it was with the expectation that we would -soon be again at liberty. But once in the service, our personal -pride and love of adventure would not allow us to become -<i>subordinate</i> by accepting office. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">142</span></p> - -<p>As it was the design of Major Savage to make a thorough -search in the territory surrounding the Yosemite, if we failed -in surprising the inhabitants in their valley, a few scouts and -guides were provided for the expedition to aid in our search -among the “High Sierras,” so distinctively named by Prof. -Whitney. Among our ample supplies ropes were furnished, -by order of Major Savage, suitable for floats, and for establishing -bridges where needed. These bridges were suggested -by myself, and were useful as a support while passing -through swift water, or for crossing narrow but rushing torrents. -This was accomplished expeditiously by simply -stretching “<i>taut</i>” two ropes, one above the other, the upper -rope, grasped by the hands, serving to secure the safe -passage of the stream. Where trees were not found in suitable -position to make the suspension, poles were lashed together -so as to form <i>shears</i>, which served for trestles. I also -suggested that snow-shoes could probably be used with -advantage on our mountain excursions. The use of these I -found entirely unknown, except to Major Savage and a few -other eastern men. My experience favored their use, as I -had often found it easier to travel <i>over</i> deep snow than to -wallow through it. My suggestion caused a “<i>heap</i>” of merriment, -and my friend Chandler laughed until he became -“<i>powerful weak</i>,” and finally “I was assailed by so many -shafts of witty raillery from my southern comrades, that I -was willing to retreat, and cry out, ‘hold, enough!’”</p> - -<p>The services of Major Savage being indispensable to the -Commissioners, it was decided that the expedition would be -under the command of Captain Boling. In making this -announcement, the Major said: he expected Ten-ie-ya and -his people would come in with us if he was formally invited, -and a sufficient escort provided. Captain Boling very -seriously assured the Major, that if the Yosemites accepted -the invitation, he should endeavor to make the trip a <i>secure</i> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">143</span> -one; there should be no neglect on the part of the escort if -suitable <i>supplies</i> were provided for subsistence. Major -Savage laughingly replied that as the expedition would be -under the especial command of Captain Boling, he had no -fears that ample supplies would not be provided.</p> - -<p>Our preparations being made, we again started for the -Merced in search of the Yosemites. It was the design of -Capt. Boling to surprise the Indians if possible, and if not, -to cut off the escape of their women and children, the capture -of whom, would soon bring the warriors to terms. -With this plan in view, and leaving Chandler virtually in -command of the column, we made a rapid march direct for -their valley, crossing the streams without much difficulty, -and without accident.</p> - -<p>The advance, consisting of Captain Boling with a small -detachment, and some of the scouts, quietly entered the -valley, but no Indians were seen. A few new wigwams -had been built on the south side near the lower ford, to -better guard the entrance as was supposed. Without -halting, except to glance at the vacant huts, the advance -rode rapidly on, following a trail up the south side, which -our Pohonochee guide informed the captain was a good -trail.</p> - -<p>On entering the valley and seeing the deserted wigwams -I reached the conclusion that our approach had been heralded. -As my military ardor subsided, my enthusiastic love -of the beautiful returned to me, and I halted a moment to -take a general view of the scenery; intending also to direct -the column up the south side. While waiting for Chandler, -I examined the huts, and found several bushels of -scorched acorns that had been divested of their covering, as -if for transportation. I knew that the natives had no more -fondness for burnt acorns than Yankees have for burnt -beans, and the interpreter Sandino, who was with me at this -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">144</span> -moment, muttered in Indian Spanish, “Yosemite very poor—no -got much eat; acorns, fire burn—pull ’em out.” In -one of the huts we found a young dog, a miserable cur that -barked his affright at our approach, and fled into the brush -near by. I told Lt. Chandler of the directions left for his -guidance, and as he expressed his intention to bring up the -rear of the column into closer order, I received permission -to move slowly on with his advance, consisting of Firebaugh, -Spencer, French, Fisher, Stone, a few others and -myself. We were soon overtaken by Chandler, who had -given his orders to the rear-guard. As we rode along, I reported -the conclusions of Sandino and my knowledge of the -fact that nearly all the acorns had been burnt. I also told -him what Sandino had previously said, that the Indians -took the shells off the acorns they carried over the mountains, -and from this cause, thought the hulled acorns found -were designed for a distant transportation. Again referring -the matter to Sandino, who was called up for the purpose, -he said, “No fire when take off skin; no like ’em; Yosemite -close by, want ’em acorn.” Upon telling Chandler that -Sandino’s opinion was that the acorns found were saved -from some of the burning supplies fired at our first visit, -and that the Yosemites were transporting them to some -mountain retreat, the Lieutenant could not credit it, and said -that “Sandino’s opinions are unreliable.”</p> - -<p>Sandino was not popular, either with our officers or with -the “boys.” Captain Boling doubted his integrity, while -Chandler said he was a most arrant coward and afraid of -the wild Indians. Chandler was right; but, nevertheless, -Sandino told us many truths. At times his timidity and -superstition were very annoying; but if reproved, he became -the more confused, and said that many questions made -his head ache; <i>a very common answer to one in search of -knowledge among Indians</i>. Sandino had been sent along -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">145</span> -by the Major as our interpreter, but a Spanish interpreter -was necessary to make him of any use. As a scout he was -inferior—almost useless. We afterwards found that Sandino’s -surmises were true. It was evident that the fire had -been extinguished at some of the large heaps, and many -acorns saved, though in a damaged condition.</p> - -<p>As we rode on up the valley, I became more observant -of the scenery than watchful for signs, when suddenly my -attention was attracted by shadowy objects flitting past -rocks and trees on the north side, some distance above El -Capitan. Halting, I caught a glimpse of Indians as they -passed an open space opposite to us. Seeing that they were -discovered, they made no further efforts to hide their movements, -but came out into open view, at long rifle range. -There were five of them. They saluted us with taunting -gestures, and fearlessly kept pace with us as we resumed -our march. The river was here a foaming impassable torrent. -The warriors looked with great indifference on our -repeated efforts to discover a fording place. As we approached -a stretch of comparatively smooth water, I made -known to Chandler my intention of swimming the stream -to capture them. His answer was: “Bully for you, Doc; -take ’em, if you can, alive, but take ’em <i>anyhow</i>.” I started -with Spencer, Firebaugh, French, young Stone and two -others, for a sloping bank where our animals would most -willingly enter the stream; but Stone spurred passed me as -we reached the bank, and when Firebaugh’s mulish mustang -refused the water, though given the spur, and all the -other mules refused to leave the horse, Stone backed his -mule over the bank, and we swam our mules after the “boy -leader” across the Merced.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="i_146" src="images/i_146.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="copy2">HOUSEWORTH & CO. PHOTO.</p> - -<p class="caption">THE THREE BROTHERS.</p> - -<p class="copy">(3,850 feet in height.)</p></div> - -<p>The Indians, alarmed by this unexpected movement, fled -up the valley at the top of their speed. By the time we -had crossed, they had nearly reached a bend in the river -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">146</span> -above on the north side. We followed at our best gait, but -found the trail obstructed by a mass of what then appeared to -be recently fallen rocks. Without hesitation, we abandoned -our mules, and continued the pursuit on foot, up to the -rocky spur known as the “Three Brothers,” where entering -the Talus, they disappeared. Find them, we could not. -The obstructing rocks on the old north side trail were -known as “We-äck,” “The Rocks,” and understood to -mean the “fallen rocks,” because, according to traditions -they had fallen <i>upon</i> the old trail. The modern trail for -horses crossed the stream a short distance below, where -there was a very good ford in a lower stage of water, but -at this time, the early part of May, the volume of water -rushing down the Merced was astonishing. We had crossed -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">147</span> -readily enough in the heat of excitement; but it was with -feelings of reluctance that we re-entered the cold water -and swam our mules back to where a few of our comrades -had halted on the south side.</p> - -<p>Mr. Firebaugh, having failed to get his mustang to -follow us, had run him up on the south side as if to cut off -the fugitives, and saw them hide behind a ledge of rocks.</p> - -<p>When informed of the situation, Capt. Boling crossed to -the north side and came down to the ledge where the scouts -were hidden; but the Captain could scarcely at first credit -Firebaugh’s statement, that he had seen them climb up the -cliff. Our Indian scouts were sent up to hunt out the hidden -warriors, and through the means of fair promises, if -they came down voluntarily, Captain Boling succeeded in -bringing in the five Indians. Three of the captives were -known to us, being sons of Ten-ie-ya, one of whom was -afterwards killed; the other two were young braves, the -wife of one being a daughter of the old chief. The -Indian name for the three rocky peaks near which this -capture was made was not then known to any of our battalion, -but from the strange coincidence of three brothers -being made prisoners so near them, we designated the -peaks as the “Three Brothers.” I soon learned that they -were called by the Indians “Kom-po-pai-zes,” from a fancied -resemblance of the peaks to the heads of frogs when -sitting up <i>ready to leap</i>. A fanciful interpretation has -been given the Indian name as meaning “mountains playing -leap-frog,” but a literal translation is not desirable.</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">They hear the plaintive bull-frog to his mistress trilling sweet;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">They see the green-robed sirens plunge down in waters deep.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">But leap these mountains may not; they watch, with clouded brow,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Return of young Ten-ie-ya—heard not his death’s pow-wow.<br /></span> -</div></div> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">148</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>A General Scout—An Indian Trap—Flying Artillery—A Narrow Escape—A -Tragic Scene—Fortunes of War—A Scout’s Description—Recovery -from a Sudden Leap—Surrounded by Enemies.</p></blockquote> - -<p>While Captain Boling was engaged in capturing the Indians -we had “treed” on the north side of the valley, scouting -parties were sent out by Lieut. Chandler. They spread -over the valley, and search was made in every locality that -was accessible. Discovering fresh signs on a trail I had -unsuccessfully followed on my first visit, I pursued the -traces up to a short distance below Mirror Lake. Being -alone I divided my attention between the wonders of the -scenery and the tracks I was following, when suddenly I -was aroused by discovering a basket of acorns lying by the -trail. Seeing that it was a common carrying basket, such -as was generally used by the squaws in “packing,” I at -first came to the conclusion that it had been thrown off by -some affrighted squaw in her haste to escape on my approach. -Observing another on a trail leading toward the -Talus, I felt confident that I had discovered the key to the -hiding-place of the Indians we were in search of. Securing -my mule with the “riata” I continued the search, and -found several baskets before reaching the walls of the cliff, -up which, in a kind of groove, the trail ascended. By this -time I began to be suspicious, and thought that there was -too much method in this distribution of acorns along the -trail for frightened squaws to have made, and it now occurred -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">149</span> -to me what Sandino had said of acorns being hulled for -transportation up the cliffs; and these <i>had not been hulled</i>!</p> - -<p>Before reaching the Talus, I observed that the foot-prints -were large, and had been made by the males, as the toes -did not turn in, as was usual with the squaws; and it now -began to appear to me, that the acorns were only left to lead -us into some trap; for I was aware that “warriors” seldom -disgraced themselves by “packing,” like squaws. Taking -a look about me, I began to feel that I was venturing too -far; my ambitious desire for further investigation vanished, -and I hastened back down the trail. While descending, I -met Lt. Gilbert of C company, with a few men. They too -had discovered baskets, dropped by the “<i>scared Indians</i>,” -and were rushing up in hot pursuit, nearly <i>capturing</i> me. -I related my discoveries, and told the Lieutenant of my suspicions, -advising him not to be too hasty in following up -the “<i>lead</i>.” After I had pointed out some of the peculiarities -of the location above us, he said with a sigh of disappointment, -“By George! Doc. I believe you are right—you -are more of an Indian than I am any way; I reckon we -had better report this to the Captain before we go any further.” -I replied, “I am now going in to report this strategy -to Captain Boling, for I believe he can make some flank -movement and secure the Indians, without our being caught -in this trap.” But while we were descending to the trail, I -seriously thought and believed, that Lt. Gilbert and his men -as well as myself, had had a narrow escape. The bit of history -of the rear guard of Charlemagne being destroyed by -the Pyrenians flashed through my mind, and I could readily -see how destructive such an attack might become.</p> - -<p>After taking the precaution to secrete the baskets on the -main trail, Lt. Gilbert, with his scouts, continued his explorations -in other localities, saying as he left that he would -warn all whom he might see “not to get into the trap.” I -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">150</span> -mounted my mule and rode down the valley in search of -Captain Boling, and found him in an oak grove near our old -camp, opposite a cliff, now known as “Hammo” (the lost -arrow). I here learned the particulars of his successful capture -of the five scouts of Ten-ie-ya’s band, and at his request -asked them, through Sandino, who had come over with the -“<i>kitchen mules</i>,” why they had so exposed themselves to -our view. They replied that Ten-ie-ya knew of our approach -before we reached the valley. That by his orders they were -sent to watch our movements and report to him. That they -did not think we could cross the Merced with our horses -until we reached the upper fords; and therefore, when discovered, -did not fear. They said that Ten-ie-ya would come -in and “have a talk with the white chief when he knows -we are here.”</p> - -<p>After repeated questioning as to where their people were, -and where the old chief would be found if a messenger -should be sent to him, they gave us to understand that they -were to meet Ten-ie-ya near To-co-ya, at the same time -pointing in the direction of the “North Dome.” Captain -Boling assured them that if Ten-ie-ya would come in with -his people he could do so with safety. That he desired to -make peace with him, and did not wish to injure any of -them. The young brave was the principal spokesman, and -he replied: “Ten-ie-ya will come in when he hears what -has been said to us.”</p> - -<p>Having acquired all the information it was possible to -get from the Indians, Capt. Boling said that in the morning -he would send a messenger to the old chief and see if he -would come in. When told this the young “brave” appeared -to be very anxious to be permitted to go after him, -saying: “He is there now,” pointing towards the “North -Dome,” “another day he will be on the ‘Skye Mountains,’ -or anywhere,” meaning that his movements were uncertain. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">151</span></p> - -<p>Capt. Boling had so much confidence in his statements, -that he decided to send some of the scouts to the region of -the North Dome for Ten-ie-ya; but all efforts of our allies -and of ourselves, failed to obtain any further clue to Ten-ie-ya’s -hiding-place, for the captives said that they dare not -disclose their signals or countersign, for the penalty was -death, and none other would be answered or understood by -their people. I here broke in upon the captain’s efforts to -obtain <i>useful knowledge</i> from his prisoners, by telling him -of the discovery of baskets of acorns found on the trail; and -gave him my reasons for believing it to be a design to lead -us into an ambush—that the Indians were probably on the -cliff above. I volunteered the suggestion that a movement -in that direction would surprise them while watching the -trap set for us.</p> - -<p>Captain Boling replied: “It is too late in the day for a -job of that kind; we will wait and see if Ten-ie-ya will -come in. I have made up my mind to send two of our -prisoners after him, and keep the others as hostages until -he comes. To make a sure thing of this, Doctor, I want -you to take these two,” pointing to one of the sons and the -son-in-law of Ten-ie-ya, “and go with them to the place -where they have said a trail leads up the cliff to Ten-ie-ya’s -hiding place. You will take care that they are not molested -by any of our boys while on this trip. Take any one -with you in camp, if you do not care to go alone.”</p> - -<p>Taking a small lunch to break my fast since the morning -meal, I concluded to make the trip on foot; my mule having -been turned loose with the herd. Arming myself, I -started alone with the two prisoners which Capt. Boling had -consigned to my guardianship. I kept them ahead of me on -the trail, as I always did when traveling with any of that -race. We passed along the westerly base of the North -Dome at a rapid gait, without meeting any of my comrades, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">152</span> -and had reached a short turn in the trail around a -point of rocks, when the Indians suddenly sprang back, and -jumped behind me. From their frightened manner, and -cry of terror, I was not apprehensive of any treachery on -their part. Involuntarily I cried out, “Hallo! what’s up -now?” and stepped forward to see what had so alarmed -them. Before me, stood George Fisher with his rifle leveled -at us. I instantly said: “Hold on George! these -Indians are under my care!” He determinedly exclaimed -without change of position, “Get out of the way, Doctor, -those Indians have got to die,” Just behind Fisher was -Sergeant Cameron, with a man on his shoulders. As he -hastily laid him on the ground, I was near enough to see -that his clothing was soiled and badly torn, and that his -face, hands and feet were covered with blood. His eyes -were glazed and bloodshot, and it was but too evident that -he had been seriously injured. From the near proximity -of the basket trail, I instantly surmised they had been on -the cliff above. The scene was one I shall long remember.</p> - -<p>It seemed but a single motion for Cameron to deposit his -burden and level his rifle. He ordered me to stand aside -if I valued my own safety. I replied as quietly as I could, -“Hold on, boys! Captain Boling sent me to guard these -Indians from harm, and I shall obey orders.” I motioned -the Indians to keep to my back or they would be killed. -Cameron shouted: “They have almost killed Spencer, and -have got to die.” As he attempted to get sight, he said: -“Give way, Bunnell, I don’t want to hurt you.” This I -thought <i>very condescending</i>, and I replied with emphasis: -“These Indians are under my charge, and I shall protect -them. If you shoot you commit murder.” The whole -transaction thus far seemingly occupied but a moment’s -time, when to the surprise of us all, Spencer called my -name. I moved forward a little, and said to them, “Throw -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">153</span> -up your rifles and let me come into to see Spencer.” “Come -in! <i>you</i> are safe,” replied Fisher—still watching the Indians -with a fierce determination in his manner. Spencer raised -himself in a sitting position, and at a glance seemed to take -in the situation of affairs, for he said: “Bunnell is right; -boys, don’t shoot; mine is but the fortune of war;” and telling -Cameron to call me, he again seemed to fall partly into stupor. -As I again moved towards them with the Indians behind -me, they with some reluctance, put up their rifles. Fisher -turned his back to me as he said with sarcasm, “Come in -with your friends, Doctor, and thank Spencer for their -safety.” They relieved their excitement with volleys of imprecations. -Cameron said that I “was a —— sight too -high-toned to suit friends that had always been willing to -stand by me.”</p> - -<p>This occurrence did not destroy good feeling toward each -other, for we were all good friends after the excitement had -passed over.</p> - -<p>I examined Spencer and found that, although no bones -were broken, he was seriously bruised and prostrated by -the shock induced by his injuries. Fisher started for camp -to bring up a horse or mule to carry Spencer in. I learned -that they had fallen into the trap on the “basket trail,” and -that Spencer had been injured while ascending the cliff as -I had suspected. He had, unfortunately, been <i>trailed in</i>, -as I had been. The particulars Cameron related to me and -in my hearing after we had arrived in camp. As the Indians -represented to me that the trail they proposed to take -up the cliff was but a little way up the north branch, I concluded -to go on with them, and then be back in time to accompany -Spencer into camp. Speaking some cheering -words to Spencer I turned to leave, when Cameron said to -him: “You ain’t dead yet, my boy.” Spencer held out his -hand, and as he took it Cameron said, with visible emotion, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">154</span> -but emphatic declaration: “We will pay them back for -this if the chance ever comes; Doc. is decidedly too conscientious -in this affair.” I escorted the Indians some way -above “Mirror Lake,” where they left the trail and commenced -to climb the cliff.</p> - -<p>On my return I found that Cameron had already started -with Spencer; I soon overtook them and relieved him of his -burden, and from there carried Spencer into camp. We -found Fisher vainly trying to catch his mule. The most -of the horses were still out with the scouts, and all animals -in camp had been turned loose. Sergt. Cameron, while -Fisher was assisting me in the removal of Spencer’s clothing -aid dressing his wounds, had prepared a very comfortable -bed, made of boughs, that the kind-hearted boys -thoughtfully brought in; and after he was made comfortable -and nourishment given him, the Sergeant related to -Captain Boling the details of their adventure, which were -briefly as follows: Cameron and Spencer while on their -way back to camp discovered the baskets on the trail. -Feeling certain that they had discovered the hiding-place -of the Indians, as we had done, they concluded to make a -reconnoissance of the vicinity before making a report of their -discovery. Elated at their success, and unsuspicious of any -unusual danger, they followed the trail that wound up the -cliff, along jutting rocks that in places projected like cornices, -until the converging walls forced them to a steep acclivity -grooved in the smooth-worn rock. Not daunted by -the difficult assent, they threw off their boots and started -up the slippery gutter, when suddenly a huge mass of -granite came thundering down towards them. But for a -fortunate swell or prominence just above they would both -have been swept into eternity; as it was, the huge rock -passed over their heads; a fragment, however, struck Spencer’s -rifle from his hand and hurled him fifty feet or more -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">155</span> -down the steep wall, where he lay, entirely senseless for a -time, while a shower of rocks and stones was passing over -him, the shape of the wall above sending them clear of his -body.</p> - -<p>Cameron was in advance, and fortunately was able to -reach the shelter of a projecting rock. After the discharge, -an Indian stretched himself above a detached rock, from -which he had been watching his supposed victims. Cameron -chanced to be looking that way, and instantly firing, -dropped his man. No doubt he was killed, for the quantity -of blood found afterward on the rock, was great. The echoing -report of Cameron’s rifle, brought back howls of rage -from a number of rocks above, as if they were alive with -demons. Anticipating another discharge from their battery, -Cameron descended to the spot where Spencer had -fallen, and taking him in his arms, fled out of range.</p> - -<p>After supper, the explorers having all come in, the boys -gathered around the Sergeant and importuned him to give -the history of his adventures. After reflectively bringing -up the scene to view, he began: “We got into mighty close -quarters! Come to think of it, I don’t see how we happened -to let ourselves be caught in that dead-fall. I reckon we -must have fooled ourselves some. The way of it was this. -We went up on the south side as far as we could ride, and -after rummaging around for a while, without finding anything, -Spencer wanted to go up the North Cañon and get a -good look at that mountain with one side split off; so I told -the boys to look about for themselves, as there were no -Indians in the valley. Some of them went on up the South -Cañon, and the rest of us went over to the North Cañon. -After crossing the upper ford, Spencer and I concluded to -walk up the cañon, so we sent our animals down to graze -with the herd. Spencer looked a good long while at that -split mountain, and called it a ‘half dome.’ I concluded -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">156</span> -he might name it what he liked, if he would leave it and -go to camp; for I was getting tired and hungry and said so. -Spencer said ‘All right, we’ll go to camp.’</p> - -<p>On our way down, as we passed that looking-glass pond, -he wanted to take one more look, and told me to go ahead -and he’d soon overtake me; but that I wouldn’t do, so he -said: “No matter, then; I can come up some other time.” -As we came on down the trail below the pond, I saw some -acorns scattered by the side of the trail, and told Spencer -there were Indians not far off. After looking about for a -while Spencer found a basket nearly full behind some rocks, -and in a little while discovered a trail leading up towards -the cliff. We followed this up a piece, and soon found several -baskets of acorns. I forgot about being hungry, and -after talking the matter over we decided to make a sort of -reconnoissance before we came in to make any report. Well, -we started on up among the rocks until we got to a mighty -steep place, a kind of gulch that now looked as if it had -been scooped out for a stone battery. The trail up it was -as steep as the roof on a meeting-house, and worn so slippery -that we couldn’t get a foot-hold. I wanted to see what -there was above, and took off my boots and started up. -Spencer did the same and followed me. I had just got to the -swell of the steepest slope, where a crack runs across the face -of the wall, and was looking back to see if Spencer would -make the riffle, when I heard a crash above me, and saw a -rock as big as a hogshead rolling down the cliff toward us. -I sprang on up behind a rock that happened to be in the -right place, for there was no time to hunt for any other -shelter.</p> - -<p>I had barely reached cover when the bounding rock struck -with a crash by my side, and bounded clear over Spencer, who -had run across the crevice and was stooping down and steadying -himself with his rifle. A piece of the big rock that was -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">157</span> -shattered into fragments and thrown in all directions, struck -his rifle out of his hands, and sent him whirling and clutching -down a wall fifty feet. He lodged out of sight, where -in going up we had kicked off our leathers. I thought -he was killed, for he did not answer when I called, and I -had no chance then to go to him, for a tremendous shower -of stones came rushing by me. I expected he would be terribly -mangled at first, but soon noticed that the swell in the -trail caused the rocks to bound clear over him onto the -rocks in the valley. I looked up to see where they came -from just as an Indian stuck his head above a rock. My -rifle came up of its own accord. It was a quick sight, but -with me they are generally the best, and as I fired that Indian -jumped into the air with a yell and fell back onto the -ledge. He was hit, I know, and I reckon <i>he went west</i>. -Every rock above was soon a yelling as if alive. As I expected -another discharge from their stone artillery, I slid -down the trail, picked up Spencer, and “vamoosed the -ranche,” just as they fired another shot of rocks down after -us. I did not stay to see where they struck after I was out -of range, for my rifle and Spencer took about all of my attention -until safely down over the rocks. While I was -there resting for a moment, Fisher came up the trail. He -heard me fire and had heard the rocks tumbling down the -cliff. Thinking some one was in trouble, he was going to -find out who it was.</p> - -<p>“We concluded at first that Spencer was done for; for -his heart beat very slow and he was quite dumpish. We -had just started for camp with him, and met Bunnell going -out with the two Indians. I reckon we would have sent -them on a trip down where it is warmer than up there on the -mountains, if Spencer hadn’t roused himself just then. -He stopped the game. He called for the Doctor; but Bunnell -was as stubborn as Firebaugh’s mustang and would -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">158</span> -not leave the Indians. We had to let them pass, before he -would take a look at Spencer. Doc. is generally all right -enough, but he was in poor business to-day. When I told -him it was his own messmate, he said it didn’t matter if it -were his own brother. If Captain Boling will make a -shooting match and put up the other three, I’ll give my -horse for the first three shots. Shooting will be cheap after -that.”</p> - -<p>I have given the substance only of Sergt. Cameron’s -talk to the group around him, though but poorly imitating -his style, in order to show the feeling that was aroused by -Spencer’s misfortune. Spencer’s uniformly quiet and gentlemanly -manners, made no enemies among rough comrades, -who admired the courageous hardihood of “the little -fellow,” and respected him as a man. Many expressions -of sympathy were given by the scouts who gathered around -our tent, on learning of his injury. For some days after -the event, he could scarcely be recognized, his face was so -swollen and discolored. But what Spencer seemed most to -regret, was the injury to his feet and knees, which had been -cruelly rasped by the coarse granite in his descent.</p> - -<p>The injury from this cause was so great, that he was unable -to make those explorations that footmen alone could -accomplish. He was an enthusiastic lover of nature, an accomplished -scholar and man of the world. Having spent -five years in France and Germany in the study of modern -languages, after having acquired a high standing here in -Latin and Greek.</p> - -<p>We thought him peculiarly gifted, and hoped for something -from his pen descriptive of the Yosemite that would -endure; but he could never be induced to make any effort -to describe any feature of the valley, saying: “That fools -only rush in where wise men stand in awe.” We were bed-fellows -and friends, and from this cause chiefly, perhaps, all -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">159</span> -the incidents of his accident were strongly impressed on my -memory. After his full recovery his feet remained tender -for a long time, and he made but one extended exploration -after his accident while in the battalion.</p> - -<p>During the camp discussion regarding my course in saving -the two captives, Captain Boling and myself were amused -listeners. No great pains were taken as a rule to hide one’s -light under a bushel, and we were sitting not far off. The -Captain said that he now comprehended the extreme anxiety -of the captives to see Ten-ie-ya, as doubtless they knew of -his intentions to roll rocks down on any who attempted to -follow up that trail; and probably supposed we would kill -them if any of us were killed. As he left our tent he remarked: -“These hostages will have to stay in camp. They -will not be safe outside of it, if some of the boys chance to -get their eyes on them.” -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">160</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Camp Amusements—A Lost Arrow—Escape of a Prisoner—Escape of -Another—Shooting of the Third—Indian Diplomacy—Taking His -Own Medicine—Ten-ie-ya Captured—Grief over the Death of His -Son—Appetite under Adverse Circumstances—Poetry Dispelled—Really -a Dirty Indian.</p></blockquote> - -<p>Although our camp was undisturbed during the night, -no doubt we were watched from the adjacent cliffs, as in -fact all our movements were. The captives silently occupied -the places by the camp fire. They were aware of Spencer’s -mishap, and probably expected their lives might -be forfeited; for they could see but little sympathy in the -countenances of those about them. The reckless demonstrations -of the more frolicksome boys were watched with -anxious uncertainty. The sombre expressions and <i>energetic</i> -remarks of the sympathizers of Spencer induced Captain -Boling to have a special guard detailed from those who -were not supposed to be prejudiced against the Indians, as -it was deemed all-important to the success of the campaign -that Ten-ie-ya should be conciliated or captured; therefore, -this detail was designed as much for the protection of the -hostages as to prevent their escape. The messengers had -assured the Captain that Ten-ie-ya would be in before -noon, but the hostages told Sandino that possibly the messengers -might not find him near To-co-ya, where they expected -to meet him, as he might go a long distance away -into the mountains before they would again see him. They -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">161</span> -evidently supposed that the chief, like themselves, had become -alarmed at the failure of his plan to draw us into ambush, -and had fled farther into the Sierras; or else doubted -his coming at all, and wished to encourage the Captain -to hope for the coming of Ten-ie-ya that their own chances -of escape might be improved.</p> - -<p>Sandino professed to believe their statement, telling me -that they—the five prisoners—expected to have trailed us -up to the scene of Spencer’s disaster; failing in which—owing -to our having forced them to hide near the “Frog -Mountains”—they still expected to meet him on the cliff -where the rocks had been rolled down, and not at To-co-ya. -In this conversation, the fact appeared—derived as he said -indirectly from conversations with the prisoners—that there -were projecting ledges and slopes extending along the cliff -on the east side of Le-hamite to To-co-ya, where Indians -could pass and re-pass, undiscovered, and all of our movements -could be watched. The substance of this communication -I gave to Captain Boling, but it was discredited as -an impossibility; and he expressed the belief that the old -chief would make his appearance by the hour agreed upon -with his messengers, designated by their pointing to where -the sun would be on his arrival in camp. Accordingly the -Captain gave orders that no scouts would be sent out until -after that time. Permission, however, was given to those -who desired to leave camp for their own pleasure or diversion.</p> - -<p>A few took advantage of this opportunity and made excursions -up the North Cañon to the “basket trail,” with a -view of examining that locality, and at the same time indulging -their curiosity to see the place where Cameron -and Spencer had been trailed in and entrapped by the Indians. -Most of the command preferred to remain in camp -to repair damages, rest, and to amuse themselves in a general -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">162</span> -way. Among the recreations indulged in, was shooting -at a target with the bows and arrows taken from the -captured Indians. The bow and arrows of the young brave -were superior to those of the others, both in material and -workmanship. Out of curiosity some of the boys induced -him to give a specimen of his skill. His shots were really -commendable. The readiness with which he handled his -weapons excited the admiration of the lookers on. He, -with apparent ease, flexed a bow which many of our men -could not bend without great effort, and whose shots were -as liable to endanger the camp as to hit the target. This -trial of skill was witnessed by Captain Boling and permitted, -as no trouble was anticipated from it.</p> - -<p>After this exercise had ceased to be amusing, and the -most of those in camp had their attention engaged in other -matters, the guard, out of curiosity and for pastime, put up -the target at long range. To continue the sport it was -necessary to bring in the arrows used, and as it was difficult -to find them, an Indian was taken along to aid in the search. -The young brave made a more extended shot than all others. -With great earnestness he watched the arrow, and started -with one of the guard, who was unarmed, to find it. While -pretending to hunt for the “lost arrow,” he made a dash -from the guard toward “Indian Cañon,” and darted into -the rocky Talus, which here encroached upon the valley. -The guard on duty hearing the alarm of his comrade and -seeing the Indian at full speed, fired at him, but without -effect, as the intervening rocks and the zig-zag course he -was running, made the shot a difficult one, without danger -of hitting his comrade, who was following in close pursuit.</p> - -<p>This aggravating incident greatly annoyed Capt. Boling, -who was peculiarly sensitive on the subject of escaped prisoners. -The verdant guard was reprimanded in terms more -expressive than polite; and relieved from duty. The remaining -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">163</span> -Indians were then transferred to the special care of -Lt. Chandler, who was told by Capt. Boling to “keep them -secure if it took the whole command to do-it.” The Indians -were secured by being tied back to back, with a “riata” or -picket rope, and then fastened to an oak tree in the middle -of the camp, and the guard—a new one—stationed where -they could constantly watch. The morning passed, and the -hour of ten arrived, without Ten-ie-ya. Capt. Boling then -sent out Sandino and the scouts to hunt for him, and if -found, to notify him that he was expected. Sandino soon -came back, and reported that he had seen Ten-ie-ya and -talked with him; but that he was unable to reach him from -below, on account of the steepness of the ledge. Sandino -reported that Ten-ie-ya was unwilling to come in. That he -expressed a determination not to go to the Fresno. He -would make peace with the white chief if he would be allowed -to remain in his own territory. Neither he nor his -people would go to the valley while the white men were -there. They would stay on the mountains or go to the -Monos.</p> - -<p>When this was communicated to Capt. Boling, he gave -orders for a select number of scouts to make an effort to -bring in the old malcontent, <i>alive if possible</i>. Lt. Chandler, -therefore, with a few Noot-chü and Po-ho-no-chee scouts, -to climb above the projecting ledge, and a few of our men -to cut off retreat, started up the Ten-ie-ya branch, led by -Sandino as guide. After passing the “Royal Arches,” Sandino -let Chandler understand that he and his scouts had -best go up by the Wai-ack or Mirror Lake trail, in order to -cut off Ten-ie-ya’s retreat; while he went back to the rock -he pointed out as the place where he had seen and talked -with Ten-ie-ya; and which commanded a view of our camp. -This was distasteful to Chandler; but after a moment’s reflection -said: “Let the converted knave go back to camp; -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">164</span> -I’ll act without him, and catch the old chief if he is on the -mountain, and that without resorting to Indian treachery.”</p> - -<p>While in camp Sandino had seemed to convey some message -to the hostages, and when asked the purport of it had -answered evasively. This had prejudiced Chandler, but it -had not surprised me, nor did it appear inconsistent with -Sandino’s loyalty to Captain Boling; but the Indian was -unpopular. As to his code of honor and his morality, it -was about what should have been expected of one in his -position, and as a frequent interpreter of his interpretations -and sayings, I finally told the Captain and Chandler that it -would be best to take Sandino for what he might be worth; -as continued doubt of him could not be disguised, and -would tend to make a knave or fool of him. On one occasion, -he was so alarmed by some cross looks and words given -him, that he fell upon his knees and begged for his life, -thinking, as he said afterward, that he was to be killed.</p> - -<p>During the night, and most of the time during the day, -I was engaged in attendance on Spencer. Doctor Black -understood it to be Spencer’s wish that I should treat him. -I gave but little attention to other matters, although I could -see from our tent everything that was going on in camp. -Not long after the departure of Chandler and his scouts, -as I was about leaving camp in search of balsam of fir and -other medicinals, I observed one of the guard watching -the prisoners with a pleased and self-satisfied expression. -As I glanced toward the Indians I saw that they were -endeavoring to untie each other, and said to two of the -detail as I passed them, “That ought to be reported to -the officer of the guard. They should be separated, and -not allowed to tempt their fate.” I was told that it was -“already known to the officers.” I was then asked if I was -on guard duty. The significance of this I was fully able to -interpret, and passed on to the vicinity of “The High -Falls.” -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">165</span></p> - -<p>On my return an hour afterwards, I noticed when nearing -camp, that the Indians were gone from the tree to -which they were tied when I left. Supposing that they had -probably been removed for greater security, I gave it no -further thought until, without any intimation of what had -occurred during my short absence, I saw before me the -dead body of old Ten-ie-ya’s youngest son. The warm blood -still oozing from a wound in his back. He was lying just -outside of our camp, within pistol range of the tree to -which he had been tied.</p> - -<p>I now comprehended the action of the guard. I learned -that the other Indian had been fired at, but had succeeded -in making his escape over the same ground and into the -cañon where the other brave had disappeared. I found on -expressing my unqualified condemnation of this cowardly act, -that I was not the only one to denounce it. It was a cause -of regret to nearly the whole command. Instead of the -praise expected by the guard for the dastardly manner in -which the young Indian was killed, they were told by Captain -Boling that they had committed murder. Sergeant -Cameron was no lover of Indians, but for this act his boiling -wrath could hardly find vent, even when aided by some -red hot expressions. I learned, to my extreme mortification, -that no report had been made to any of the officers. -The Indians had been permitted to untie themselves, and -an opportunity had been given them to attempt to escape -in order to fire upon them, expecting to kill them both; -and only that a bullet-pouch had been hung upon the -muzzle of one of the guard’s rifles while leaning against a -tree (for neither were on duty at the moment), no doubt -both of the captives would have been killed.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="i_166" src="images/i_166.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">YOSEMITE FALLS.</p> - -<p class="copy">(2,634 feet in height.)</p></div> - -<p>Upon investigation, it was found that the fatal shot had -been fired by a young man who had been led by an old -Texan sinner to think that killing Indians or Mexicans -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">166</span> -was a duty; and surprised -at Captain Boling’s view of -his conduct, declared with -an injured air, that he -“would not kill another Indian -if the woods were full -of them.” Although no -punishment was ever inflicted -upon the perpetrators of -the act, they were both soon -sent to coventry, and feeling -their disgrace, were allowed -to do duty with the pack-train. -Captain Boling had, -before the occurrence of this -incident, decided to establish -his permanent camp on the -south side of the Merced. -The location selected was -near the bank of the river, -in full view of, and nearly -opposite, “The -Fall.” This camp -was head-quarters -during our -stay in the valley, -which was extended -to a much -longer time than -we had anticipated. -Owing to -several mountain -storms, our stay -was prolonged -over a month. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">167</span> -The bottoms, or meadow land, afforded good grazing for -our animals, and we were there more conveniently reached -by our couriers and supply-trains from the Fresno.</p> - -<p>From this point our excursions were made. All Indians -attach great importance to securing the bodies of their dead -for appropriate ceremonials, which with these was “cremation.” -They with others of the mountain tribes in this part -of California, practiced the burning of their dead in accordance -with their belief in a future state of existence, -which was that if the body was burned, the spirit was released -and went to “the happy land in the west.” If this -ceremony was omitted, the spirit haunted the vicinity, to -the annoyance of the friends as well as the enemies of the -deceased. Knowing this, Captain Boling felt a desire to -make some atonement for the unfortunate killing of the son -of Ten-ie-ya, the chief of the tribe with whom he was endeavoring -to “make peace,” and therefore made his arrangements -to take advantage of this custom to propitiate -the Indians by giving them an opportunity to remove the -body of the youth. Accordingly, the order was at once -given to break camp.</p> - -<p>While the pack animals were being loaded, Lt. Chandler -with his party brought in Ten-ie-ya. The Indian scouts, -who were first sent out with Sandino and who knew where -the talk with the chief had been held, passed on in advance -and saw that he was still at his perch, watching the movements -below him. Some of those out on leave discovered -him also, seated on a ledge that appeared only accessible -from above. The Pohonochee scouts, thinking to capture -him by cutting off his retreat, followed an upper trail and -reached the summit of the wall, while a few of Chandler’s -men, who were apprized of the situation by some of the -pleasure-seekers whom they met, took a lower trail, and -thus were in advance of the Indian scouts when Ten-ie-ya’s -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">168</span> -retreat was reached. To their disappointment, the old chief -could not be found, though at intervals fresh signs and heaps -of stones were seen along the south-western slope of the -mountain.</p> - -<p>The sequel to the disappearance of Ten-ie-ya, as explained -by Sandino, was simply as follows: When sent back by -Chandler, Sandino resolved to make another effort to induce -Ten-ie-ya to come in, lest Chandler should kill him if -found. Accordingly he again climbed to the foot of the -old chief’s perch, and was talking with him, when some -small loose stones came rolling down towards them. Seeing -that his retreat above had been cut off, Ten-ie-ya at first -ran along westerly, on the slope of the mountain towards -Indian Cañon; but finding that he was cut off in that direction -also, by the Neut-chü and Po-ho-no-chee scouts, he -turned and came down a trail through an oak tree-top to -the valley, which Sandino had by this time reached, and -where he had been attracted by the noise made in the pursuit. -Lt. Chandler had not climbed up the trail, and hearing -Sandino’s cry for help, and the noise above him, he was -able to reach the place when Ten-ie-ya descended, in time -to secure him. Ten-ie-ya said the men above him were -rolling stones down, and he did not like to go up, as they -broke and flew everywhere; for that reason he came down.</p> - -<p>Ten-ie-ya accompanied his captors without making any -resistance, although he strongly censured the Indians for -being instrumental in his capture. They did not reach the -valley in time to take part in the capture, but as Ten-ie-ya -had said: “It was their cunning that had discovered the -way to his hiding place.”</p> - -<p>None of the party of explorers or those under Chandler -were aware of the event that had occurred during their absence. -As Ten-ie-ya walked toward the camp, proudly conscious -of being an object of attention from us, his eye fell -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">169</span> -upon the dead body of his favorite son, which still lay where -he had fallen, without having been disturbed. He halted -for a moment, without visible emotion, except a slight quivering -of his lips. As he raised his head, the index to his -feelings was exhibited in the glaring expression of deadly -hate with which he gazed at Capt. Boling, and cast his eyes -over the camp as if in search of the remains of the other son, -the fellow captive of the one before him. Captain Boling -expressed his regret of the occurrence, and had the circumstances -explained to him, but not a single word would he utter -in reply; not a sound escaped his compressed lips. He passively -accompanied us to our camp on the south side of the -river. It was evident that every movement of ours was -closely scrutinized. Sandino was instructed to notify the -chief that the body could be taken away. This permission -was also received in silence.</p> - -<p>Upon riding over to the camp ground the next morning, -it was found that the body had been carried up or secreted -in Indian Cañon; as all of the tracks led that way. This -ravine became known to <i>us</i> as “Indian Cañon,” though -called by the Indians “Le-Hamite,” “the arrow wood.” It -was also known to them by the name of “Scho-tal-lo-wi,” -meaning the way to “<i>Fall Creek</i>.” The rocks near which -we were encamped, between “Indian Cañon” and “The -Falls,” were now called by the Po-ho-no-chee scouts who -were with us, “Hammo” or “Ummo” “The Lost Arrow,” -in commemoration of the event. On the morning following -the capture of Ten-ie-ya, Capt. Boling tried to have a -talk with him; but he would not reply to a question asked -through the interpreter; neither would he converse with -Sandino or the Indians with us. He maintained this -moody silence and extreme taciturnity for several days afterwards.</p> - -<p>Finding that nothing could be accomplished through the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">170</span> -old chief, Captain Boling gave orders to re-commence our -search for his people. Scouting parties were started on -foot to explore as far as was practicable on account of the -snow. Although it was now May, the snow prevented -a very extended search in the higher Sierras. On -the first day out these parties found that, although they -had made a faithful and active search, they had not performed -half they had planned to do when starting. Distances -were invariably under-estimated. This we afterward -found was the case in all of our excursions in the -mountains, where we estimated distance by the eye; and -calling attention to the phenomena, I tried to have the -principle applied to heights as well. The height of the -mountainous cliffs, and the clear atmosphere made objects -appear near, but the time taken to reach them convinced -us that our eyes had deceived us in our judgment of distance. -To avoid the severe labor that was imposed upon -us by carrying our provisions and blankets, an attempt was -made to use pack-mules, but the circuitous route we were -compelled to take consumed too much time; besides the -ground we were desirous of going over was either too soft -and yielding, or too rocky and precipitous. We were compelled -to leave the mules and continue our explorations on -foot. Later in the season there would have been no difficulty -in exploring the mountains on horse-back, if certain -well established routes and passes were kept in view; but -aside from these our Indian guides could give us little or -no information. This we accounted for upon the theory -that, as there was no game of consequence in the higher -Sierras, and the cold was great as compared with the lower -altitudes, the Indians knowledge of the “Higher Sierras” -was only acquired while passing over them, or while concealed -in them from the pursuit of their enemies. All -scouting parties were, therefore, principally dependent upon -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">171</span> -their own resources, and took with them a supply of food -and their blankets for a bivouac. In this way much time -and fatigue of travel was saved. Some were more adventurous -than others in their explorations. These, on returning -from a scout of one or more days out, would come -in ragged and foot-sore, and report with enthusiasm their -adventures, and the wonders they had seen. Their descriptions -around the camp fire at night were at first quite -exciting; but a few nights’ experience in the vicinity of the -snow-line, without finding Indians, soon cooled down the -ardor of all but a very few, who, from their persistent wandering -explorations, were considered somewhat eccentric.</p> - -<p>Through our Indian scouts, we learned that some of the -Yosemites had gone to the Tuolumne. These were Tuolumne -Indians who had intermarried with the Yosemites, -and had been considered as a part of Ten-ie-ya’s band. -Taking their women and children, they returned to the -Tuolumne tribe as soon as it was known that Ten-ie-ya had -been captured; fearing he would again promise to take his -band to the Fresno. Our orders prohibited us from disturbing -the Tuolumne Indians; we therefore permitted -them to return to their allegiance without attempting to -follow them.</p> - -<p>Ten-ie-ya was treated with kindness, and as his sorrow -for the loss of his son seemed to abate, he promised to call -in some of his people, and abide by their decision, when -they had heard the statements of Capt. Boling. At night -he would call as if to some one afar off. He said his people -were not far from our camp and could hear his voice. -We never heard a reply, although the calls were continued -by order of Capt. Boling for many nights.</p> - -<p>Although he was closely watched by the camp guard, he -made an attempt to escape while the guard’s back was momentarily -turned upon him. Sergt. Cameron, who had especial -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">172</span> -charge of him at the time, saw his movement, and -as he rushed from his keeper, Cameron dashed after and -caught him before he was able to plunge into and swim the -river.</p> - -<p>As Ten-ie-ya was brought into the presence of Capt. Boling -by Sergt. Cameron, after this attempt to escape, he supposed -that he would now he condemned to be shot. With -mingled fear of the uncertainty of his life being spared, and -his furious passion at being foiled in his attempt to regain -his liberty, he forgot his usual reserve and shrewdness. His -grief for the loss of his son and the hatred he entertained -toward Capt. Boling, who he considered as responsible for -his death, was uppermost in his thoughts, and without any -of his taciturn, diplomatic style he burst forth in lamentations -and denunciations, given in a loud voice and in a style -of language and manner of delivery which took us all by -surprise. In his excitement, he made a correct use of many -Spanish words, showing that he was more familiar with -them than he had ever admitted even to Sandino; but the -more emphatic expressions were such as may often be heard -used by the muleteers of Mexico and South America, but are -not found in the Lexicons. As he approached Capt. Boling, -he began in a highly excited tone: “<i>Kill me</i>, sir Captain! -Yes, <i>kill me</i>, as you killed my son; as you would kill my -people if they were to come to you! You would kill all my -race if you had the power. Yes, sir, American, you can -now tell your warriors to kill the old chief; you have made -me sorrowful, my life dark; you killed the child of my -heart, why not kill the father? But wait a little; when I -am dead I will call to my people to come to you, I will call -louder than you have had me call; that they shall hear me -in their sleep, and come to avenge the death of their chief -and his son. Yes, sir, American, my spirit will make -trouble for you and your people, as you have caused trouble -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">173</span> -to me and my people. With the wizards, I will follow the -white men and make them fear me.” He here aroused himself -to a sublime frenzy, and completed his rhapsody by saying: -“You may kill me, sir, Captain, but you shall not live -in peace. I will follow in your foot-steps, I will not leave -my home, but be with the spirits among the rocks, the -water-falls, in the rivers and in the winds; wheresoever you -go I will be with you. You will not see me, but you will -fear the spirit of the old chief, and grow cold.<a id="FNanchor_13" href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">13</a> The great -spirits have spoken! I am done.”</p> - -<p>Captain Boling allowed the old orator to finish his talk -without interruption. Although he did not fully understand -him, he was amused at his earnest style and impetuous gestures. -On hearing it interpreted, he humorously replied: -“I comprehended the most of what he said. The old chief -has improved. If he was only reliable he would make a -better interpreter than Sandino. As for speech-making, -Doc., I throw up. The old Pow-wow can beat me all hollow.” -Ten-ie-ya earnestly watched the countenance of the -good natured Captain, as if to learn his decision in the matter. -The Captain observing him, quietly said: “Sergeant -Cameron! the old sachem looks hungry, and as it is now -about supper time, you had better give him an extra ration -or two, and then see that he is so secured that he will not -have a chance to escape from us again.”</p> - -<p>I watched the old incorrigible while he was delivering -this eloquent harangue (which, of course, is necessarily a free -translation) with considerable curiosity. Under the excitement -of the moment he appeared many years younger. -With his vigorous old age he displayed a <i>latent</i> power which -was before unknown to us. I began to feel a sort of veneration -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">174</span> -for him. My sympathies had before been aroused -for his sorrow, and I now began to have almost a genuine -respect for him; but as I passed him half an hour afterwards, -the poetry of his life appeared changed. He was -regaling himself on fat pork and beans from a wooden dish -which had been brought to him by order of Cameron. This -he seemed to enjoy with an appetite of a hungry animal. -His guard had provided his wooden bowl and ladle by chipping -them out of an alder tree, but failing to finish them -smoothly, they could not be <i>properly</i> washed; but this fact -seemed not to disturb his relish for the food. As I looked -at his enjoyment of the loaded dish, I now saw only a dirty -old Indian. The spiritual man had disappeared. I addressed -him in Spanish, but not a word of reply; instead -he pointed to his ear, thereby indicating that he was deaf -to the language. Afterwards he even repudiated his “<i>Medicineship</i>.” -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">175</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Bears and Other Game—Sickness of Captain Boling—Convalescence and -Determination—A Guess at Heights—A Tired Doctor and a Used-up -Captain—Surprising an Indian—Know-nothingness, or Native Americanism—A -Clue and Discovery—A Short-cut to Camp, but an Unpopular -Route.</p></blockquote> - -<p>Considerable hilarity has been exhibited by modern visitors -when told that the Yosemite and its environs were -once the favorite resort of the grizzly bear. After these visitors -have returned to New York or Boston, they tell the -public not to be afraid of bears, as they were quite harmless; -rather inclined to become domestic, etc. That is well -enough now, perhaps, although grizzlies may yet be found; -but at the date of the discovery; their trails were as large -and numerous, almost, as cow-paths in a western settlement. -Several bears were seen by us, and one was killed. -The Yo-sem-i-tes used to capture these monsters by lying -in wait for them on some rock or in some tree that commanded -their thoroughfare, and after the bear had been -wounded, all the dogs in the village were turned loose upon -him. After being brought to bay, he was dispatched with -arrows or the spear. A medium sized terrier or two will -so annoy a large grizzly, keeping out of his way in the -meantime, that he is apt to become stubborn and stand his -ground.</p> - -<p>In such cases, there is less danger to the hunter. I have -known of two being killed in this way at short range. The -approach of the hunter was disregarded by the bear. Their -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">176</span> -hams had been so bitten by the dogs that they dared not -run, for fear of a fresh attack. I killed a large one as he -came out of the Merced river, a little above where the town -of Merced has since been built, and the same day, being in -a whale-boat, I had to back from an old she-bear and her -two cubs, encountered in a short turn of the river. I tried -to kill these also, but my rifle had got soaked in the rain -that was pouring at the time; as for the pistol shots, fired -by some of the oarsmen, they only seemed to increase her -speed, and that of her cubs, as they reached the shore and -plunged through the willows. I had, previous to the killing -of the grizzly, killed a large black bear with a rifle -of small calibre, and gaining confidence, I attacked the -grizzly, and was fortunate in cutting a renal-artery, from -which the bear soon bled to death; but upon viewing the -huge monster, I fully realized the folly of an open attack -upon this kind of game, and ever afterwards, so far as I -could, when alone, avoided their noted haunts. With all -my caution and dread of an unexpected encounter with -them, I met several face to face during mountain explorations; -but invariably, they seemed as anxious to get away -from me as I was that they should do so. Once while manœuvering -to get a shot at a deer, a grizzly came out in full -view but a few yards in advance of me. I was tempted to -give him a shot, but as I had no refuge of dog or tree, if I -made a poor shot, and knowing that I was not seen by the -bear, I did not molest him, but felt relieved as he entered -a chinquepin thicket, and if there had been <i>fifty of them</i>, -no doubt they might have all gone without my <i>saying a -word</i>.</p> - -<p>I have seen a good deal of nonsense in print about bears, -but will venture to give these incidents. Joel H. Brooks -and John Kenzie, ex-members of “The Battalion,” were -the least susceptible to fear of them, of any persons I ever -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">177</span> -knew. Their skill as marksmen, was something wonderful. -They used to go through a drill on foot, firing at -some imaginary grizzly, then with a representative shot, -the bear was wounded, and pursuing them; they would -turn and flee, loading their rifles as they ran, and then turn -and fire with deliberation at the imaginary bear in pursuit.</p> - -<p>This theory of bear hunting, they determined to put into -practice, and after the close of the Indian war, and the -disbanding of the battalion, they established themselves in -a camp near the Tehon Pass, a locality even more famous -for bears than the Yosemite. They were successful, killed -a number, and were daily acquiring more confidence in the -practicability of their theory and plans of attack; when one -day, while Kenzie was out hunting by himself, he unexpectedly -met a huge grizzly face to face; both were for a moment -startled.</p> - -<p>Contrary to the usual, and almost invariable, habit of the -bear when surprised or about to attack, he did not rise -upon his hind feet; but instead of affording Kenzie the advantage -of the usual opportunity to aim at the small, light-colored -spot on his neck, which, if centered, is instant death -to the animal, the bear made a direct dash for the hunter. -Seeing his peril, Kenzie at once fired with all the deliberation -the urgency of the occasion would permit. The shot -proved a fatal one, but before Kenzie could avoid the furious -charge of the animal, he was fatally injured by blows -from the terrible monster. His bowels were literally torn -out; he was unfortunate in being tripped by the tangled -brush, or he might have escaped, as the bear fell dead with -his first charge, Kenzie succeeded in dragging himself to -their camp. He described the locality of the adventure, -and requested Brooks to go and bring in the liver of the -bear. He said it would afford him some consolation to eat -more of the bear than the bear had been able to eat of him. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">178</span> -Brooks brought in and cooked some of the liver, fully gratifying -Kenzie’s whim; but it was the hunter’s last poor triumph—he -died soon after. Brooks swore off from this -method of hunting, at least for a season, and accepted a -position offered him at the Indian Agency.</p> - -<p>Another member of our battalion killed a grizzly that for -a time made him quite famous as a bear-fighter. As this -man was an Indian, an attempt has been made to weave the -incident into a legend, giving the honor of the combat to -one of the Yosemites. The truth is, that a full-blooded -Cherokee, known as “Cherokee Bob,” or Robert Brown, -wounded a grizzly, and to keep the bear from entering a -thicket, set his dog on the game. While “Bob” was re-loading -his rifle, and before he could get the cap on, the -bear, disregarding the dog, charged upon Bob, and bore him -to the ground. The dog instantly attacked the bear, biting -his hams most furiously. The grizzly turned from Brown -and caught the dog with his paw, holding him as a cat -would hold a mouse. By this means Bob was released, and -but slightly bruised. In an instant he drew his hunting -knife and plunged it to the heart of the bear, and ended the -contest. The dog was seriously injured, but Bob carried -him in his arms to camp, and attended his wounds as he -would a comrade’s or as he might have done his own. As -“Cherokee Bob’s” bear fight was a reality known to his -comrades, I have noticed it here.</p> - -<p>The various routes to the Yosemite are now so constantly -traveled that bears will rarely be seen. They possess a -very keen scent, and will avoid all thoroughfares traveled -by man, unless very hungry; they are compelled to search -for food. Strange as it may appear to some, the ferocious -grizzly can be more reliably tamed and domesticated than -the black bear. A tame grizzly at Monterey, in 1849, was -allowed the freedom of the city. Capt. Chas. M. Webber, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">179</span> -the original proprietor of the site of Stockton, had two that -were kept chained. They became very tame. One of these, -especially tame, would get loose from time to time and -roam at will over the city. The new inhabitants of Stockton -seemed not to be inspired by that faith in his docility -and uprightness of character that possessed the owner, for -they found him ravenously devouring a barrel of sugar that -belonged to one of the merchants, and refused to give up -any portion of it. This offended the grocer, and he sent -word to Mr. Webber to come and remove his truant thief. -The Captain came, paid for the damaged sugar, and giving -him, like a spoiled child, some of the sweets he had confiscated -to induce him to follow, led the bear home. But -bruin remembered his successful foray, and breaking his -chain again and again, and always returning to the merchant’s -premises for sugar, Mr. Webber rid himself and the -community of the annoyance by disposing of his grizzlies.</p> - -<p>During a hunt in company with Col. Byron Cole, Messrs. -Kent, Long and McBrien of San Francisco, I caught a good -sized cub, and Mr. Long, with a terrier dog, caught another; -the mother of which was killed by the unerring aim -of McBrien. These cubs were taken by Cole and McBrien -to San Francisco on their return, and sent to New York. -I was told that they became very tame. I hope they did, -for the comfort and security of their keepers; for in my -first efforts to tame a grizzly, I became somewhat prejudiced -against bear training as an occupation. Not long after my -experience, I heard of poor Lola Montez being bitten by -one she was training at Grass Valley for exhibition in -Europe; and I now lost all faith in their reported docility -and domestic inclinations. The California lion, like the -wolf, is a coward, and deserves but little notice. Among -the visitors to the Yosemite, some will probably be interested -in knowing where to find the game: fish, birds and -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">180</span> -animals, that may yet remain to gratify the sportsmen’s love -of the rod and the chase. Most of the game has been killed -or driven off by the approach of civilization. Deer and occasionally -a grizzly, cinnamon or black bear may be found -on the slopes of the Tuolumne, Merced, Fresno and San -Joaquin, and on all the rivers and mountains south of these -streams. The cinnamon bear of California is much larger -than the common brown bear of the Rocky Mountains.</p> - -<p>The <i>blue</i> black-tailed deer of California are distinct from -the black tuft-tailed deer of the eastern ranges; a very -marked difference will be observed in their horns and ears. -This distinction has been noticed by naturalists; but the -species are often confounded in newspaper correspondence. -The habits of the California deer are more goat-like; they -are wilder, and more easily startled than the “mule-eared” -deer of the Rockies, and when alarmed, they move with the -celerity of the white-tailed Virginia deer. The bare, tuft-tailed -and big-eared Rocky Mountain deer, seem but little -alarmed by the report of a gun; and their curiosity is nearly -equal to that of the antelope.</p> - -<p>The California deer are still abundant upon the spurs of -the Sierras during their migrations to and from the foot-hills. -These migrations occur during the Autumn and -Spring. As the rainy season sets in, they leave the higher -mountains for the foot-hills and plains, keeping near the -snow line, and as the Spring advances, they follow back the -receding snow to the high Sierras and the Eastern Slope, but -seldom or never descend to the plain below. On account -of these migratory habits, they will most likely endure the -assaults of the sportsmen. The haunts of the grizzly are the -same as those of the deer, for they alike prefer the bushy -coverts to the more open ground, except when feeding. -The deer prefer as food the foliage of shrubs and weeds to -the richest grasses, and the bear prefers clover, roots, ants -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">181</span> -and reptiles; but both fatten principally on acorns, wild rye -and wild oats.</p> - -<p>California grouse are found in the vicinity of the Yosemite. -During the months of July and August they were -formerly found quite numerous concealed in the grass and -sedges of the valley and the little Yosemite; but as they -are much wilder than the prairie chicken, they shun the -haunts of man, and are now only found numerous in mid-summer -upon or bordering on the mountain meadows and -in the timber, among the pine forests, where they feed upon -the pine seeds and mistletoe, which also afford them ample -concealment. Their ventriloquial powers are such that -while gobbling their discordant notes, they are likely to deceive -the most experienced ear. It is almost impossible to -feel quite sure as to which particular tree the grouse is in -without seeing it. He seems to throw his voice about, now -to this tree and now to that, concealing himself the while -until the inexperienced hunter is deluded into the belief -that the trees are full of grouse, when probably there is but -one making all the noise. His attention having been diverted, -the hunter is left in doubt from sheer conflicting -sounds as to which particular tree he saw a bird alight in. -It is generally pretty sure to “<i>fetch the bird</i>,” if you shoot -into the bunch of mistletoe into which you <i>supposed</i> you -saw the grouse alight.</p> - -<p>Beside the mountain grouse and mountain quail, among -the most beautiful of birds, that afford the sportsman a diversity -of sport, an occasional flock of pigeons, of much -larger size than those of the Atlantic States, will attract -attention; though I have never seen them in very large -flocks. In most of the mountain streams, and their branches, -brook trout are quite abundant. They are not, however, -so ravenously accommodating, as to bite just when they are -wanted. I learned from the Indians that they would bite -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">182</span> -best in foaming water, when they were unable to see the -angler, or the bait distinctly; their curiosity stimulating -their appetites. It is important that the trout do not see -the angler, and when very wary, the rod even should not be -conspicuous. Below the cañon of the Yosemite, young -salmon were once abundant. The Indians used to catch -fish in weirs made of brush and stones; but during the extensive -mining operations on the Merced and other rivers, -the salmon seemed to have almost abandoned their favorite -haunts, for the mud covered spawn would not hatch. Large -salmon were speared by the Indians in all the rivers, with -a curious bone spear of but one tine, while the smaller fry -were caught in their weirs. In the Tulare lakes and in the -San Joaquin, King’s, Kern and other rivers, fish, frogs and -turtle are abundant, and water fowl literally swarm during -the winter months in many parts of California.</p> - -<p>Among the foot-hills of the Sierra Nevada, as well as in -all the lesser mountain ranges, may be found the common -California blue quail, and a very curious brush or chapparel -cock, known to the Spanish residents of California and -Mexico as “El Paisano” (The Countryman), and as the -“Correo Camino” (Road-runner), and to ornithologists as -the <i>Geo-coc cyx Californicus</i>.<a id="FNanchor_14" href="#Footnote_14" class="fnanchor">14</a> They have received the -name of “<i>countryman</i>” because of their inclination to run -like country children at the sight of strangers, and that of -“road-runner” from the habit of frequenting roads and trails, -for the purpose of wallowing in the dust, and when alarmed -darting off along the road with the speed of an ostrich or -wild turkey. The object they have in wallowing in the -dust is like that of the ruffled grouse, which indulge in -the same practice—they sun themselves and at the same -time are rid of vermin. Trusting to their legs to escape -when alarmed, they take the open ground—the road—until -outrunning pursuit they hide in the chapparel, and thus -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">183</span> -acquire the name of “road-runner” or “chapparel cock.”</p> - -<p>I have never seen any ruffled grouse in the Sierra -Nevada, but a species of these fine birds, are quite abundant -in Oregon and Washington territory. I have been able -to solve a question regarding them, upon which naturalists -have disagreed, that is, as to how they drum. Whether the -sound is produced by the wings in concussive blows upon -their bodies, the air, logs or rocks? I am able to say from -personal and careful observation, that the sound of “<i>drumming</i>,” -is made, like the sound of the “<i>night jar</i>,” exclusively -by a peculiar motion of the wings <i>in the air</i>. It is -true, the American “pheasant” or American “partridge,” -commonly stands upon a log while drumming, but I have -watched them while perched upon a dry small branch or -twig, drum for hours most sonorously, calling upon their -rivals to encounter them, and their mistresses to come and -witness their gallantry. Darwin has aptly said: “The -season of love, is that of battle.” Notwithstanding the -acuteness of observation of Mr. Darwin, he has been led -into error in his statement that wild horses “do not make -any danger signals.” They snort and paw the earth with -impatience, when they cannot discover the cause of their -alarm, and almost invariably circle to the leeward of the -object that disturbs them. A mule is the best of sentinels -to alarm a camp on the approach of danger. Deer and -elk whistle and strike the earth perpendicularly with their -feet when <i>jumping up</i> to discover the cause of alarm. Deer -and antelope are both so inquisitive, that if the hunter has -not been seen, or has been but imperfectly seen, by dropping -into the grass or brush, and raising some object to view and -suddenly withdrawing it, the deer or antelope will frequently -come up within a few feet of the object. Antelope -are especially curious to know what disturbs them.</p> - -<p>The coyotes, or small wolves, and the grey or tree climbing -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">184</span> -foxes of California, make a kind of barking noise, more -like the bark of a small dog than the howl of a wolf; and -therefore barking is not so much of “<i>an acquired</i>” art as -has been supposed, though the “laughter” of dogs is more -or less acquired.</p> - -<p>The whistle of the elk is as complete a call to his mistress, -and is as well understood, as though the female had -said, “Whistle and I’ll come to you.” Elk and antelope -are still to be found in California, as well as wild horses, but -they are now quite timid, and resort to unfrequented ranges. -The best hunting now to be found in California, except for -water-fowl, is in the region of Kern River. Near its source -big-horn or mountain sheep may be killed, and from along -the base of the eastern slope, antelope range into the desert. -Deer and bear may be found on either slope of the -range, and among the broken hills south of the head of Tulare -valley.</p> - -<p>Wolves, foxes, badgers, coons, and other fur-clothed animals, -are also quite numerous. I have <i>dared</i> to question -some of Mr. Darwin’s facts, and as I expect this to be my -last literary effort (oh, ye reviewers!), I wish to remind the -publishers of Webster’s Dictionary that a beaver is not an -“<i>amphibious</i>” animal, neither is a muscalonge “an overgrown -pickerel.”</p> - -<p>A few days after we had moved camp to the south side -of the Merced, Captain Boling was prostrated with an attack -of pneumonia. From frequent wettings received while -crossing the ice-cold torrents, and a too free use of this -snow-water, which did not agree with many, he had for -some days complained of slight illness, but after this attack -he was compelled to acknowledge himself sick. Although -the severe symptoms continued but a few days, his -recovery was lingering, and confined him to camp; consequently -he knew but little of his rocky surroundings. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">185</span> -Although regular reports were made to him by the scouting -parties, he had but an imperfect conception of the labors -performed by them in clambering over the rocks of -the cañons and mountains. He would smile at the reports -the more enthusiastic gave of the wonders discovered; -patiently listen to the complaints of the more practical -at their want of success in, what they termed, their futile -explorations; and finally concluded to suspend operations -until the fast-melting snow had so disappeared from -the high mountain passes as to permit our taking a supply-train, -in order to make our search thorough. The winter -had been an unusually dry and cold one—so said the Indians—and, -as a consequence, the accumulations of snow -in the passes and lake basins had remained almost intact. -A succession of mountain storms added to the drifts, so -that when the snow finally began to melt, the volume of -water coming from the “High Sierras” was simply prodigious—out -of all proportion to the quantity that had fallen -upon the plains below.</p> - -<p>Sandino persisted in trying to make the Captain believe -that most of the Yosemites had already gone through the -Mono Pass, and that those remaining hidden, were but the -members of Ten-ie-ya’s family. This theory was not accepted -by Capt. Boling, and occasional scouting parties -would still be sent out. A few of us continued to make -short excursions, more for adventure and to gratify curiosity, -than with the expectation of discovering the hiding places -of the Indians; although we kept up the form of a search. -We thus became familiar with most of the objects of interest.</p> - -<p>The more practical of our command could not remain -quiet in camp during this suspension of business. Beside -the ordinary routine of camp duties, they engaged in athletic -sports and horse-racing. A very fair race track was -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">186</span> -cleared and put in condition, and some of the owners of -fast horses were very much surprised, to see their favorites -trailing behind some of the fleet-footed mules. A maltese -Kentucky blooded mule, known as the “Vining Mule,” distanced -all but one horse in the command, and so pleased -was Capt. Boling with its gracefully supple movements, -that he paid Vining for it a thousand dollars in gold.</p> - -<p>For a change of amusement, the members of our “Jockey -Club” would mount their animals and take a look at such -points of interest as had been designated in our camp-fire -conversations as most remarkable. The scenery in the Yosemite -and vicinity, which is now familiar to so many, was -at that time looked upon with varied degrees of individual -curiosity and enjoyment, ranging from the enthusiastic, to almost -a total indifference to the sublime grandeur presented. -It is doubtful if any of us could have given a very graphic -description of what we saw, as the impressions then received -were so far below the reality. Distance, height, depth -and dimensions were invariably under-estimated; notwithstanding -this, our attempts at descriptions after our return -to the settlements, were received as exaggerated “yarns.”</p> - -<p>While in Mariposa, upon one occasion not very long after -the discovery of Yosemite, I was solicited by Wm. T. Whitachre, -a newspaper correspondent from San Francisco, to -furnish him a written description of the Valley. This, of -course, was beyond my ability to do; but I disinterestedly -complied with his request as far as I could, by giving him -some written details to work upon. On reading the paper -over, he advised me to reduce my estimates of heights of -cliffs and waterfalls, at least fifty per centum, or my judgment -would be a subject of ridicule even to my personal -friends. I had estimated El Capitan at from fifteen hundred -to two thousand feet high; the Yosemite Fall at about -fifteen hundred feet, and other prominent points of interest -in about the same proportion. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">187</span></p> - -<p>To convince me of my error of judgment, he stated that -he had interviewed Captain Boling and some others, and -that none had estimated the highest cliffs above a thousand -feet. He further said that he would not like to risk his own -reputation as a correspondent, without considerable modification -of my statements, etc. Feeling outraged at this imputation, -I tore up the manuscript, and left the “newspaper -man” to obtain where he could such data for his patrons as -would please him. It remained for those who came after -us to examine scientifically, and to correctly describe what -we only observed as wonderful natural curiosities. With -but few exceptions, curiosity was gratified by but superficial -examination of the objects now so noted. We were -aware that the valley was high up in the regions of the Sierra -Nevada, but its altitude above the sea level was only -guessed at. The heights of its immense granite walls was -an uncertainty, and so little real appreciation was there in -the battalion, that some never climbed above the Vernal -Fall. They knew nothing of the beauties of the Nevada Fall, -or the “Little Yosemite.” We, as a body of men, were -aware that the mountains, cañons and waterfalls were on a -grandly extensive scale, but of the proportions of that scale -we had arrived at no very definite conclusions.</p> - -<p>During our explorations of the Sierras, we noticed the -effects of the huge avalanches of snow and ice that had in -some age moved over the smooth granite rocks and plowed -the deep cañons. The evidences of past glacial action were -frequently visible; so common, in fact, as hardly to be objects -of special interest to us. The fact that glaciers in -motion existed in the vast piles of snow on the Sierras, was -not dreamed of by us, or even surmised by others, until -discovered, in 1870, by Mr. John Muir, a naturalist and -most persistent mountain explorer, who by accurate tests -verified the same, and gave his facts to the world. Mr. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">188</span> -Muir has also brought into prominent notice, by publications -in “Scribner’s Monthly Illustrated Magazine,” some -of the beautiful lakes of the Sierras, having discovered many -unknown before. Mr. Muir’s descriptions combine the -most delightful imagery with the accuracy of a true lover -of nature. His article upon the water-auszel, “The humming-bird -of the California waterfalls,” in the same magazine, -proves him a most accomplished observer.</p> - -<p>All of the smaller streams that pour their tribute into the -valley during the melting of the snow, become later in the -season but dry ravines or mere rivulets, but the principal -tributaries, running up, as they do, into the lake and snow -reservoirs, continue throughout the dry season to pour their -ample supply. After returning from my mountain explorations, -I freely questioned Ten-ie-ya of the places we had -visited. The old chief had gradually assumed his customary -manner of sociability, and if convinced by outline maps -in the sand that we were familiar with a locality, he would -become quite communicative, and give the names of the -places described in distinct words. Our English alphabet -utterly fails to express the sounds of many of them, for -they were as unpronounceable as Apache. This difficulty -is owing more or less to the guttural termination given by -the Indians.</p> - -<p>Another important fact which causes a confusion of these -names is, that owing to the poverty of their language, they -use the same word, or what seems to be the same, for several -objects, which by accent, comparison and allusion, or by -gestures, are readily understood by them, but which it is difficult -for one not familiar with the dialect to comprehend, -and still more difficult to illustrate or remember. This I -shall endeavor to demonstrate in giving the names applied -to different localities in the valley and vicinity.</p> - -<p>While I was endeavoring to ascertain the names of localities -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">189</span> -from Ten-ie-ya, he was allowed some privileges in -camp, but was not permitted to leave his guard. The cunning -old fellow watched his opportunity, and again made -an attempt to escape by swimming the river; but he was -again foiled, and captured by the watchfulness and surprising -strength of Sergeant Cameron.</p> - -<p>From this time Ten-ie-ya was secured by a rope which -was fastened around his waist. The only liberty allowed -was the extent of the rope with which he was fastened. He -was a hearty feeder, and was liberally supplied. From a -lack of sufficient exercise, his appetite cloyed, and he suffered -from indigestion. He made application to Captain -Boling for permission to go out from camp to the place -where the grass was growing, saying the food he had been -supplied with was too strong; that if he did not have grass -he should die. He said the grass looked good to him, and -there was plenty of it. Why then should he not have it, -when dogs were allowed to eat it?</p> - -<p>The Captain was amused at the application, with its irony, -but surmised that he was meditating another attempt -to leave us; however, he good humoredly said: “He can -have a ton of fodder if he desires it, but I do not think it -advisable to turn him loose to graze.” The Captain consented -to the Sergeant’s kindly arrangements to <i>tether</i> him, -and he was led out to graze upon the young clover, sorrel, -bulbous roots and fresh growth of ferns which were then -springing up in the valley, one species of which we found a -good salad. All of these he devoured with the relish of a -hungry ox. Occasionally truffles or wood-mushrooms were -brought him by Sandino and our allies, as if in kindly sympathy -for him, or in acknowledgment of his rank. Such -presents and a slight deference to his standing as a chief, -were always received with grunts of satisfaction. He was -easily flattered by any extra attentions to his pleasure. At -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">190</span> -such times he was singularly amiable and conversational. -Like many white men, it was evident that his more liberal -feelings could be the easiest aroused through his stomach.</p> - -<p>Our supplies not being deemed sufficient for the expedition -over the Sierras, and as those verdureless mountains -would provide no forage for our animals, nor game to -lengthen out our rations unless we descended to the lower -levels, Capt. Boling sent a pack train to the Fresno for -barley and extra rations. All of our Indians except Sandino -and Ten-ie-ya were allowed to go below with the detachment -sent along as escort for the train. While waiting for these -supplies, some of the command who had been exploring -up Indian Cañon, reported fresh signs at the head of that -ravine. Feeling somewhat recovered in strength, Captain -Boling decided to undertake a trip out, and see for himself -some of our surroundings. Accordingly, the next morning, -he started with some thirty odd men up Indian Cañon. -His design was to explore the Scho-look or Scho-tal-lo-wi -branch (Yosemite Creek) to its source, or at least the Southern -exposures of the divide as far east as we could go and -return at night. Before starting, I advised the taking of -our blankets, for a bivouac upon the ridge, as from experience -I was aware of the difficult and laborious ascent, and -intimated that the excursion would be a laborious one for -an invalid, if the undertaking was accomplished. The Captain -laughed as he said: “Are your distances equal to -your heights? If they correspond, we shall have ample -time!” Of course, I could make no reply, for between us, -the subject of heights had already been exhausted, although -the Captain had not yet been to the top of the inclosing -walls.</p> - -<p>Still, realizing the sensitive condition of his lungs, and -his susceptibility to the influences of the cold and light -mountain air, I knew it would not be prudent for him to -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">191</span> -camp at the snow-line; and yet I doubted his ability to return -the same day; for this reason I felt it my duty to caution -him. A few others, who had avoided climbing the -cliffs, or if they had been upon any of the high ridges, -their mules had taken them there, joined in against my -suggestion of providing for the bivouac. I have before referred -to the Texan’s devotion to the saddle. In it, like -Comanche Indians, he will undergo incredible hardships; -out of it, he is soon tired, and waddles laboriously like a -sailor, until the unaccustomed muscles adapt themselves to -the new service required of them; but the probabilities are -against the new exercise being continued long enough to -accomplish this result. Understanding this, I concluded -in a spirit of jocularity to make light of the toil myself; -the more so, because I knew that my good Captain had no -just conception of the labor before him. By a rude process -of measurement, and my practical experience in other -mountains in climbing peaks whose heights had been established -by measurements, I had approximately ascertained -or concluded that my first estimate of from fifteen -hundred to two thousand feet for the height of El Capitan, -was much below the reality. I had so declared in discussing -these matters. Captain Boling had finally estimated -the height not to exceed one thousand feet. Doctor Black’s -estimate was far below this. I therefore felt assured that -<i>a walk up</i> the cañon, would practically improve their judgments -of height and distance, and laughed within myself -in anticipation of the fun in store. On starting, I was -directed to take charge of Ten-ie-ya, whom we were to take -with us, and to keep Sandino near me, to interpret anything -required during the trip. As we entered Indian Cañon, -the old chief told the Captain that the ravine was a bad -one to ascend. To this the Captain replied, “No matter, -we know this ravine leads out of the valley; Ten-ie-ya’s -trail might lead us to a warmer locality.” -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">192</span></p> - -<p>Climbing over the wet, mossy rocks, we reached a level -where a halt was called for a rest. As Doctor Black came -up from the rear, he pointed to a ridge above us, and exclaimed, -“Thank God, we are in sight of the top at last.” -“Yes, Doctor,” said I, “that is one of the first tops.” “How -so?” he inquired; “Is not that the summit of this ravine?” -To this I cheerfully replied, “You will find quite a number -of such tops before you emerge from this cañon.” Noticing -his absence before reaching the summit, I learned he took -the trail back, and safely found his weary way to camp. -Captain Boling had over-estimated his strength and endurance. -He was barely able to reach the table land at the head -of the ravine, where, after resting and lunching, he visited the -Falls, as he afterwards informed me. By his order I took -command of nine picked men and the two Indians. With -these I continued the exploration, while the party with the -Captain <i>explored</i> the vicinity of the High Fall, viewed the -distant mountains, and awaited my return from above.</p> - -<p>With my energetic little squad, I led the way, old Ten-ie-ya -in front, Sandino at his side, through forest openings -and meadows, until we reached the open rocky ground on -the ridge leading to what is now known as Mt. Hoffman. -I directed our course towards that peak. We had not traveled -very far, the distance does not now impress me, when -as we descended toward a tributary of Yosemite creek, we -came suddenly upon an Indian, who at the moment of discovery -was lying down drinking from the brook. The babbling -waters had prevented his hearing our approach. We -hurried up to within fifty or sixty yards, hoping to capture -him, but were discovered. Seeing his supposed danger, he -bounded off, a fine specimen of youthful vigor. No racehorse -or greyhound could have seemingly made better time -than he towards a dense forest in the valley of the Scho-look. -Several rifles were raised, but I gave the order “don’t shoot,” -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">193</span> -and compelled the old chief to call to him to stop. The young -Indian did stop, but it was at a safe distance. When an attempt -was made by two or three to move ahead and get -close to him, he saw the purpose and again started; neither -threatening rifles, nor the calls of Ten-ie-ya, could again -stop his flight.</p> - -<p>As we knew our strength, after such a climb, was not -equal to the chase of the fleet youth, he was allowed to go unmolested. -I could get no information from Ten-ie-ya concerning -the object of the exploration; and as for Sandino, his -memory seemed to have conveniently failed him. With this -conclusion I decided to continue my course, and moved off -rapidly. Ten-ie-ya complained of fatigue, and Sandino -reminded me that I was traveling very fast. My reply to -both cut short all attempts to lessen our speed; and when -either were disposed to lag in their gait, I would cry out -the Indian word, “We-teach,” meaning hurry up, with -such emphasis as to put new life into their movements.</p> - -<p>We soon struck an old trail that led east along the southern -slope of the divide, and when I abandoned my purpose -of going farther towards the Tuolumne, and turned to the -right on the trail discovered, Ten-ie-ya once more found -voice in an attempt to dissuade me from this purpose, saying -that the trail led into the mountains where it was very -cold, and where, without warm clothing at night, we would -freeze. He was entirely too earnest, in view of his previous -taciturnity; and I told him so.</p> - -<p>The snow was still quite deep on the elevated portions -of the ridge and in shaded localities, but upon the open -ground, the trail was generally quite bare. As we reached -a point still farther east, we perceived the trail had been -recently used; the tracks had been made within a day or -two. From the appearances, we concluded they were made -by Ten-ie-ya’s scouts who had followed down the ridge and -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">194</span> -slope west of the North Dome to watch our movements. -The tracks were made going and returning, thus showing a -continued use of this locality. As the tracks diverged from -the trail at this point, they led out of the direct line of any -communication with the valley, and after some reflection, -I was satisfied that we had struck a clue to their hiding -place, and realizing that it was time to return if we expected -to reach the valley before dark, we turned about and started -at once on the down grade.</p> - -<p>We found the Captain anxiously awaiting our return. -He was pleased with our report, and agreed in the conclusion -that the Indians were encamped not very far off. Captain -Boling had suffered from fatigue and the chill air of -the mountains. In speaking of a farther pursuit of our -discoveries, he said: “I am not as strong as I supposed, and -will have to await the return of the pack train before taking -part in these expeditions.”</p> - -<p>I told Captain Boling that upon the trip, Sandino had -appeared willfully ignorant when questioned concerning -the country we were exploring, and my belief that he stood -in fear of Ten-ie-ya; that as a guide, no dependence could -be placed upon him, and that his interpretations of Ten-ie-ya’s -sayings were to be received with caution when given -in the old chief’s presence, as Ten-ie-ya’s Spanish was -about equal to his own. Captain Boling instructed me to -tell Sandino, that in future, he need only act as interpreter. -He seemed satisfied with this arrangement, and said that -the country appeared different from what it was when he -was a boy and had been accustomed to traverse it.</p> - -<p>When we commenced our descent into the valley Ten-ie-ya -wanted us to branch off to the left, saying he was very -tired, and wanted to take the best trail. Said he, “There -is a good trail through the arrow-wood rocks to the left of -the cañon.” I reported this to the Captain, and expressed -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">195</span> -the opinion that the old chief was sincere for once; he had -grumbled frequently while we were ascending the cañon in -the morning, because we were compelled to climb over the -moss covered bowlders, while crossing and re-crossing the -stream, and he told Sandino that we should have taken the -trail along the cliff above. Captain Boling replied: “Take -it, or it will be long after dark before we reach camp.” -Accordingly I let Ten-ie-ya lead the way, and told him to -travel fast. He had more than once proved that he possessed -an agility beyond his years. As his parole was at a discount, -I secured a small cord about his chest and attached -the other end to my left wrist to maintain <i>telegraphic</i> communication -with him; but as the hidden trail narrowed and -wound its crooked way around a jutting point of the cliff -overlooking the valley and ravine, I slipped the loop from -my wrist and ordered a halt.</p> - -<p>Captain Boling and the men with him came up and took -in the view before us. One asked if I thought a bird could -go down there safely. Another wanted to know if I was -aiding “Old Truthful” to commit suicide. The last question -had an echo of suspicion in my own thoughts. I immediately -surmised it possible the old sachem was leading -us into another trap, where, by some preconcerted signal, -an avalanche of rocks would precipitate us all to the bottom. -I asked Ten-ie-ya if this trail was used by his people; he -assured me it was, by women and children; that it was a -favorite trail of his. Seeing some evidences of it having -been recently used, and being assured by Sandino that it -was somewhere below on this trail that Ten-ie-ya had descended -to the valley when taken a prisoner, a few of us -were shamed into a determination to make the attempt to -go where the old chief could go.</p> - -<p>Most of the party turned back. They expressed a willingness -to fight Indians, but they had not, they said, the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">196</span> -faith requisite to attempt to walk on water, much less air. -They went down Indian Cañon, and some did not reach camp -until after midnight, tired, bruised and footsore. We who -had decided to take our chances, re-commenced our descent. -I told Ten-ie-ya to lead on, and to stop at the word “halt,” -or he would be shot. I then dispatched Sandino across -the narrow foot-way, which, at this point was but a few -inches in width, and which was all there was dividing us -from Eternity as we passed over it. Telling them both to -halt on a projecting bench in view, I crossed this yawning -abyss, while Sandino, aided by a very dead shot above, held -the old man as if petrified, until I was able once more to -resume my charge of him.</p> - -<p>This I found was the only really dangerous place, on -what was facetiously called, by those who were leaving us, -“a very good trail.” The last fifty or sixty feet of the descent -was down the sloping side of an immense detached -rock, and then down through the top of a black oak tree at -the south-westerly base of the vast cliff or promontory -known as the “Arrow-wood Cliff.” The “Royal Arches,” -the “Washington Column,” and the “North Dome,” occupy -positions east of this trail, but upon the same vast pile -of granite.</p> - -<p>I sometime afterward pointed out the trail to a few visitors -that I happened to meet at its foot. They looked upon -me with an incredulous leer, and tapped their foreheads -significantly, muttering something about “Stockton Asylum.” -Fearing to trust my amiability too far, I turned and -left them. Since then I have remained cautiously silent. -Now that the impetuosity of youth has given place to the -more deliberative counsels of age, and all dangers to myself -or others are past, I repeat, for the benefit of adventurous -tourists, that on the southwesterly face of the cliff -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">197</span> -overlooking the valley and Indian Cañon, there is a trail -hidden from view, that they may travel if they will, and -experience all the sensations that could ever have been felt, -while alive, by a Blondin or LaMountain.</p> - -<p>This portion of the cliff we designated as Ten-ie-ya’s -Trail, and it accords well with the scene in the Jungfrau -Mountains, where Manfred, alone upon the cliffs, says:</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“And you, ye craigs, upon whose extreme edge<br /></span> -<span class="i0">I stand, and on the torrent’s brink beneath<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Behold the tall pines dwindled as to shrubs,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">In dizziness of distance; when a leap,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">A stir, a motion, even a breath, would bring<br /></span> -<span class="i0">My breast upon its rocky bosom’s bed<br /></span> -<span class="i0">To rest forever—wherefore do I pause?<br /></span> -<span class="i0">I feel the impulse—yet I do not plunge;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">I see the peril—yet do not recede;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And my brain reels—and yet my foot is firm:<br /></span> -<span class="i0">There is a power upon me which withholds,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And makes it my fatality to live.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">198</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII.</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>The Indian Names—Difficulty of their Interpretation—Circumstances -Suggesting Names of Vernal, Nevada and Bridal Veil Falls—Mr. -Richardson’s Descriptions of the Falls and Round Rainbow—Py-we-ack -Misplaced, and “<i>Illiluette</i>” an Absurdity—An English Name -Suggested for Too-lool-lo-we-ack, Pohono and Tote-ack-ah-nü-la—Indian -Superstitions and Spiritual Views—A Free National Park Desirable—Off -on the Trail.</p></blockquote> - -<p>During our long stay in the Yosemite, I discovered that -almost every prominent object and locality in and about it, -had some distinctive appellation. Every peak and cliff, every -cañon or ravine, meadow, stream and waterfall, had a designation -by which it could be distinguished by the Yosemites. -I made considerable effort to acquire these names in their -native purity. Although I did not at that time learn all -of them, I did in subsequent visits to the valley and to the -camps of the remnants of the tribes, acquire, as I then believed, -a very nearly correct pronunciation of most of them. -I used all the advantages afforded by my position as one of -the Spanish interpreters, and applied myself perseveringly -to the task of preserving these names; for even at that early -day I realized that public interest would, in time, be attached -to that wonderful locality. I was ridiculed for the -idea, or at least for the supposition that it probably would -be awakened during my life-time.</p> - -<p>I obtained many of the names of objects and locations -from old Ten-ie-ya himself, whenever I could find him in -a communicative mood. As he was reputed to be quite a -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">199</span> -linguist, speaking, besides his native Ah-wah-ne-chee, the -Pai-ute, and other dialects, I regarded his authority as -superior to that of either the Po-ho-no or Noot-chü Indians, -who differed from him in the pronunciation of some of the -names.</p> - -<p>I was unable to converse with Ten-ie-ya except through -an interpreter, but the words I noted down from the old -chief’s lips as they sounded to my ear at the time, getting -the signification as best I could, or not at all. There is -really no more sentiment or refined imagery of expression -among Indians than will be found among ignorant people -of any kind. But living as they do in close affinity with -nature, natural objects first attract their attention, and the -dominant characteristics of any object impress themselves -upon their language. Hence many of their words are supposed -to be representative of natural sounds. Our Po-ho-no-chee -and Noot-chü scouts were familiar with the dialect -in common use by the Yosemites, and they also aided me, -while at times they confused, in acquiring the proper names. -The territory claimed by the Po-ho-no-chees, joined that of -the Yosemites on the south. During the Summer months, -they occupied the region of the Po-ho-no Meadows, and the vicinity -of the Pohono Lake. Their territory, however, extended -to the right bank of the South Fork of the Merced. It was -there we found a little band on our first expedition. Some -of this band were quite intelligent, having with the Noot-chüs, -worked for Major Savage. It was from them that -the Major first learned that the Yosemites were a composite -band, collected from the disaffected of other bands in that -part of California, and what is now Nevada; and as the -Major said, the dialect in common use among them was -nearly as much of a mixture as the components of the band -itself, for he recognized Pai-ute, Kah-we-ah and Oregon -Indian words among them. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">200</span></p> - -<p>Major Savage was intimately familiar with the dialects -of his Indian miners and customers, and was probably at -that time the best interpreter in California of the different -mountain dialects.</p> - -<p>I consulted him freely as to the pronunciation of the -names, and learned his interpretation of the meaning of -them. These names, or most of them, were first given for -publication by myself, as received from the Yosemites and -Po-ho-no-chees; together with English names which had been -given to some of the same points by the battalion. I purposely -avoided all attempts at description, giving instead, -a few estimates of heights. The data then furnished by -myself was published in editorials, and has been mostly -preserved, though in an imperfect state, from some fault in -my writing or that of the proof-reader. Reference to old -files of the “California Chronicle,” “Sacramento Union,” -“California Farmer” and the Mariposa papers, will show a -somewhat different orthography from that now in use.<a id="FNanchor_15" href="#Footnote_15" class="fnanchor">15</a></p> - -<p>While in the valley I made memoranda of names and -important events, which I have preserved, and which, with -interpretations kindly furnished me by Mr. B. B. Travis, an -excellent <i>modern</i> interpreter, I am now using to verify my -recollections and those of my comrades. While acquiring -these names, I employed every opportunity to make them -familiar, but this proved to be a thankless task, or at least -it was an impossible one. The great length of some of the -names, and the varied pronunciations, made the attempt an -impracticable one. I then gave attention to the substitution -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">201</span> -of suitable English names in place of the Indian words, and -to supersede the fantastic and absurd ones already suggested -and affixed by some of the command. It is so customary -for frontiersmen to give distinctive names of their own -coinage, that we had great difficulty in getting any of the -Indian names adopted; and considerable judgment had to -be exercised in selecting such English names as would -“stick”—as would displace such names as the “Giant’s -Pillar,” “Sam Patch’s Falls,” “The Devil’s Night-Cap,” -etc., etc. Many English names were given because they -were thought to be better than the Indian names, which -could not be remembered or pronounced, and the meaning -of which was not understood. The English names agreed -upon and adopted at that time have since been retained, notwithstanding -some adverse criticisms and efforts to supersede -them by some fancied Indian or mythological substitute. -Some of these names were the selection of my comrades—“Cloud’s -Rest,” for one; because upon our first visit -the party exploring the “Little Yosemite” turned back and -hastened to camp upon seeing the clouds rapidly settling -down to rest upon that mountain, thereby indicating the -snow storm that soon followed.</p> - -<p>The most of the names were however, selected by myself, -and adopted by our command. This deference was awarded -to my selections because I was actively interested in acquiring -the Indian names and significations, and because I was -considered the most interested in the scenery.</p> - -<p>I have related in a previous chapter the incident of selecting -the name “Yosemite” for the valley, not then -knowing its Indian name. As the “High Fall,” near -which we were encamped, appeared to be the principal one -of the Sierras, and was the fall <i>par excellence</i>, I gave that -the name of “Yosemite Falls,” and in so naming it I but -followed out the idea of the Indians who called it “Choolook” -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">202</span> -or “Scholook,” which signifies in this case “The -Fall.” A comparison of the Yosemite Falls with those known -in other parts of the world, will show that in elements of -picturesque beauty, height, volume, color and majestic surroundings, -the Yosemite has no rival upon earth. The -Zambesi and Niagara are typical of volume, but the Yosemite -is sixteen times greater in height than Niagara, and -about eight times that of the Victoria Falls. The upper -part of the Yosemite is more than twice the height of the -Svoringvoss, of Norway, and lacks but thirty feet of being -twice as high as the highest of the Southerland waterfalls, -of New Zealand. The three falls of the Southerland -aggregate but 1,904 feet, 730 less than the Yosemite.</p> - -<p>The Ribbon Fall of the El Capitan has a sheer descent -of 2,100 feet, but its beauty disappears with the melting -snow. The other falls were only designated by the names -of the streams upon which they are situated. The -river Merced was spoken of as the river of Ah-wah-ne; -but the three principal branches were variously designated; -the main, or middle, up to the Vernal Fall, as -“Yan-o-pah,” the “Water Cloud” branch, and above the -Vernal, as “Yo-wy-we-ack,” “the twisting rock branch.”</p> - -<p>The north and south branches had their distinctive names; -the north, Py-we-ack, meaning the branch of the “Glistening -Rocks,” and the south, Too-lool-we-ack, or more -definitely, Too-lool-lo-we-ack. The modern interpretations -of some of these names may be regarded as quite fanciful, -though Major Savage would declare that Indian languages -were so full of figures of speech that without imagination -they could not be understood.</p> - -<p>The strictly literal interpretation of this name would be -inadmissable, but it is well enough to say, that to the unconscious -innocence of their primitive state, the word simply -represented an effort of nature in the difficult passage of -the water down through the rocky gorge. It is derived from -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">203</span> -Too-lool and We-ack, and means, ὁ ποταμὸς, ὃς διὰ πέτρας οὐρεῖ. -This name has been published as if by authority to signify. -“<i>The Beautiful</i>”—how beautiful, the learned in Greek may -judge.</p> - -<p>This really beautiful fall was visited by few of our battalion, -and owing to the impracticability of following up -the cañon above the fall, and the great difficulty of access -to it, it was left neglected; the command contenting itself -with a distant view. In view of the discoveries of Mr. -Muir that there were glaciers at its source, and that the -cliff now known as “Glacier Point” may be said to mark -the entrance to this “South Cañon,” a name often confounded -with “South Fork,” and especially because of the -impropriety of translating this Indian name, I think it advisable -to call this the Glacier Fall, and, therefore, give it -that name in this volume. The name of “Illeuette” is not -Indian, and is, therefore, meaningless and absurd. In accordance -with the customs of these mountain people of -naming their rivers from the most characteristic features of -their source, the North or Ten-ie-ya branch of the Merced, -which comes down the North Cañon from the glistening -glacial rocks at its source, was called Py-we-ack, “the river -of glistening rocks,” or more literally, perhaps, “the river-smoothed -rocks.” Whether from Pai, a river, or from Py-ca-bo, -a spring, I am in doubt. If the first syllable of the -name Py-we-ack be derived from Py-ca-bo, then, probably, -the name signified to them “the glistening rock spring -branch,” as the ice-burnished rocks at the head of Lake Ten-ie-ya -stand at the source of the river.</p> - -<p>I have never been satisfied with the poetical interpretation -given the name, nor with its transfer to “Yan-o-pah,” -the branch of the “little cloud,” as rendered by Mr. Travis. -But as Py-we-ack has been displaced from Lake Ten-ie-ya -and its outlet, it is proper and in accordance with the custom -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">204</span> -to call the branch Ten-ie-ya also. The name of Ten-ie-ya -was given to the lake at the time of its discovery. -It was there we captured the remnant of the Yosemite -band, as will be explained in the next chapter. The name -of Ten-ie-ya Cañon, Ten-ie-ya Fork and Lake Ten-ie-ya, -has for this reason superseded the original name of Py-we-ack; -but in naming the lake, I preserved an Indian name -that represented the central figure in all of our operations.</p> - -<p>Wai-ack was the name for “Mirror Lake,” as well as for -the mountain it so perfectly reflected. The lake itself was -not particularly attractive or remarkable, but in the early -morning, before the breeze swept up the cañon, the reflections -were so perfect, especially of what is now known as -Mt. Watkins, that even our scouts called our attention to it -by pointing and exclaiming: “Look at Wai-ack,” interpreted -to mean the “Water Rock.” This circumstance suggested -the name of “Mirror Lake.” The name was opposed -by some, upon the ground that all still water was a mirror. -My reply established the name. It was that other conditions, -such as light and shade, were required, as when looking -into a well, the wall of the Half Dome perfecting the -conditions, and that when shown another pool that was -more deserving, we would transfer the name. Captain -Boling approved the name, and it was so called by the battalion.</p> - -<p>The middle or main branch was designated by the Yosemites—from -the fork of the Glacial Branch up to the Vernal -Fall—as Yan-o-pah, because they were compelled to pass -through the spray of the Vernal, to them a “little cloud,” -while passing up this cañon. The Indian name of the Nevada -Fall, “Yo-wy-we,” or Yo-wy-ye, and that of Too-lool-lo-we-ack, -afforded innumerable jests and amusing comments, -and when the suggestion of naming these falls was -made, it was received with rude hilarity. Names without -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">205</span> -number were presented as improvements on the originals. -These names were indeed more than my own gravity would -endure; Yo-wy-we being represented at first to signify the -“wormy” water, from the twist or <i>squirm</i> given to the water -in falling upon an obstructing rock; and therefore, after -consultation with a few of my personal friends, I suggested -Vernal, as an English name for Yan-o-pah, and Nevada, for -that of Yo-wy-we. The Nevada Fall was so called because -it was the nearest to the Sierra Nevada, and because the -name was sufficiently indicative of a wintry companion for -our spring.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="i_205" src="images/i_205.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">MIRROR LAKE—WATKINS’ AND CLOUDS’ REST.</p></div> - -<p>It would be a difficult task to trace out and account for -all of our impressions, or for the forms they take; but my -recollection is that the cool, moist air, and newly-springing -Kentucky blue-grass at the Vernal, with the sun shining -through the spray as in an April shower, suggested the <i>sensation</i> -of spring before the name of Vernal occurred to me; -while the white, foaming water, as it dashed down Yo-wy-we -from the snowy mountains, represented to my mind a -vast avalanche of snow. In concluding my advocacy of -these names, I represented the fact that while we were enjoying -the vernal showers below, hoary-headed winter was -pouring his snowy avalanches above us. Then, quoting -from Byron, I said:</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">The Vernal “<span class="nowrap">...</span> mounts in spray the skies, and thence again<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Returns in an unceasing shower, which round<br /></span> -<span class="i0">With its unemptied cloud of gentle rain,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Is an eternal April to the ground,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Making it all one emerald.”<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p>These names were given during our long stay in the valley, -at a time when</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“The fragrant strife of sunshine with the morn<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Sweeten’d the air to ecstasy!”<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p>It is agreeably complimentary for me to believe that our -motives in giving English names were comprehended, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">206</span> -our action in the matter appreciated by others. Mr. Richardson, -in “Beyond the Mississippi,” shows an almost intuitive -perception of our reasons for adopting the English -names given to the principal falls in the Yosemite. He -says: “These names are peculiarly fitting—Bridal Veil indeed -looks like a veil of lace; in summer when Bridal Veil -and Yosemite dwarf, Vernal still pours its ample torrent, -and Nevada is always white as a snow-drift. The Yosemite -is height, the Vernal is volume, the Bridal Veil is softness, -but the Nevada is height, volume and softness combined. -South Fork cataract, most inaccessible of all, we did not -visit. In spring each fall has twenty times as much water -as in summer. On the whole Yosemite is incomparably -the most wonderful feature on our continent.” Speaking -of the Vernal Fall, Mr. Richardson says: “I saw what to -Hebrew prophet had been a vision of heaven, or the visible -presence of the Almighty. It was the round rainbow—the -complete circle. There were two brilliant rainbows of -usual form, the crescent, the bow proper. But while I looked -the two horns of the inner or lower crescent suddenly -lengthened, extending on each side to my feet, an entire -circle, perfect as a finger ring. In two or three seconds it -passed away, shrinking to the first dimensions. Ten minutes -later it formed again and again, and again as suddenly -disappeared. Every sharp gust of wind showering the -spray over me, revealed for a moment the round rainbow. -Completely drenched, I stood for an hour and a half and saw -fully twenty times that dazzling circle of violet and gold on -a ground-work of wet, dark rocks, gay dripping flowers and -vivid grasses. I never looked upon any other scene in nature -so beautiful and impressive.” Mr. Richardson has -with a great deal of enthusiasm given a vivid description of -what appeared to me as a glowing representation of youthful -spring; and to which the name of “vernal” was, I -think, consistently and appropriately applied. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">207</span></p> - -<p>Mr. Hutchings, in criticising the name Vernal, has mis-stated -the Indian name for this fall, furnished him by -myself, and published in his magazine and his “Scenes of -Wonder;” and while neglecting to speak in terms of the -vivid green of the yielding sod that “squirts” water, he -eloquently describes the characteristics of a <i>vernal</i> shower; -or the Yosemites “little water cloud,” Can-o-pah; or, if -it pleases him better, Yan-o-pah. The name given by the -Yosemites to the Ten-ie-ya branch of the Merced was unmistakably -Py-we-ack. This name has been transferred -from its original locality by some <i>romantic</i> preserver of -Indian names. While passing over to Yan-o-pah, it was -provided with an entirely new signification. It is indeed -a laughable idea for me to even suppose that a worm and -acorn-eating Indian would ever attempt to construct a name -to mean “<i>a shower of sparkling crystals</i>;” his diet must -have been improved by <i>modern</i> intelligent culture. The -signification is certainly poetical, and is but <i>one step</i> removed -from the sublime. One objection only can be raised -against it; it is a little too romantic; something after the -style of the tradition furnished Mr. Bancroft.<a id="FNanchor_16" href="#Footnote_16" class="fnanchor">16</a></p> - -<p>Names were given to the numerous little streams that -poured into the valley during the melting of the snow, and -formed many beautiful water-falls and cascades, but I shall -not attempt to describe them, as it would serve no useful -purpose to give the common-place, and in some instances, -very <i>primitive</i> names of these ephemeral streams. In any -other mountains, in any other country, great interest would -attach to them; but in the Yosemite, they are but mere -suggestions to the grander objects that overshadow them.</p> - -<p>Another witness to the propriety of the English names is -Professor J. D. Whitney, State Geologist. In his admirable -“Yosemite Guide Book” he says: “The names given -by the early white visitors to the region, have entirely replaced -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">208</span> -the native ones; and they are, in general, quite sufficiently -euphonious and proper, some of them, perhaps -slightly inclined to sentimentality; for if we recognize the -appropriateness of the ‘Bridal Veil’ as a designation for the -fall called Po-ho-no by the Indians, we fail to perceive why -the ‘Virgin’s Tears’ should be flowing on the opposite side -of the valley.”</p> - -<p>This criticism is undoubtedly just. It seems as if some -one had made an enormous stride across from the poetically -sublime to ridiculous sentimentality. It is fortunate that -the fall dries up early in the season!</p> - -<p>The name of “Bridal-Veil” was suggested as an appropriate -English name for the Fall of the Pohono by Warren -Bær, Esq., at the time editor of the “Mariposa Democrat,” -while we were visiting the valley together. The appropriateness -of the name was at once acknowledged, and -adopted as commemorative of his visit. Mr. Bær was a -man of fine culture, a son of the celebrated Doctor Bær -of Baltimore.</p> - -<p>The Pohono takes its rise in a small lake known as Lake -Pohono, twelve or fifteen miles in a southernly direction -from the Fall. The stream is fed by several small branches -that run low early in the season.</p> - -<p>The whole basin drained, as well as the meadows adjacent, -was known to us of the battalion, as the Pohono -branch and meadows.</p> - -<p>The band who inhabited this region as a summer resort, -called themselves Po-ho-no-chee, or Po-ho-na-chee, meaning -the dwellers in Po-ho-no, as Ah-wah-ne-chee was understood -to indicate the occupants of Ah-wah-nee. This delightful -summer retreat was famous for the growth of berries and -grasses, and was a favorite resort for game. The black seeds -of a coarse grass found there, were used as food. When -pulverized in stone mortars, the meal was made into mush -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">209</span> -and porridge. I found it impossible to obtain the literal -signification of the word, but learned beyond a doubt that -Po-ho-no-chee was in some way connected with the stream. -I have recently learned that Po-ho-no means a daily puffing -wind, and when applied to fall, stream, or meadow, means -simply the fall, stream, or meadow of the puffing wind, -and when applied to the tribe of Po-ho-no-chees, who occupied -the meadows in summer, indicated that they dwelled -on the meadows of that stream.</p> - -<p>Mr. Cunningham says: “Po-ho-no, in the Indian language, -means a belt or current of wind coming in puffs and -moving in one direction.” There is such a current, in its -season, on the Old Millerton Road, where the dust is -swept off clean. The Chow-chilla Indians call that the -Po-ho-no. The Po-ho-no of the Yosemite makes its -appearance where the two cascade creeks enter the canon, -and this air current is daily swept up the canon to the -Bridal Veil Fall, and up its stream, in puffs of great power. -The water is thrown back and up in rocket-like jets, far -above the fall, making it uniquely remarkable among the -wonders of the valley.</p> - -<p>Mr. Hutching’s interpretation is entirely fanciful, as are -most of his Indian translations.”</p> - -<p>The name for the little fall to which the name of “Virgin’s -Tears” has been applied, was known to us as “Pigeon -Creek Fall.” The Indian name is “Lung-yo-to-co-ya”; its -literal meaning is “Pigeon Basket,” probably signifying to -them “Pigeon Nests,” or <i>Roost</i>. In explanation of the -name for the creek, I was told that west of El Capitan, in -the valley of the stream, and upon the southern slopes, -pigeons were at times quite numerous. Near the southwest -base of the cliff we found a large <i>caché</i>. The supplies were -put up on rocks, on trees and on posts. These granaries -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">210</span> -were constructed of twigs, bark and grass, with the tops -covered in and rounded like a large basket.</p> - -<p>If this <i>caché</i> had any connection with the name of “Pigeon -Baskets,” Lung-yo-to-co-ya would probably designate -“The Pigeon Creek <i>Caché</i>.”</p> - -<p>After a reverential salutation, “El Capitan” must now -receive my attention.</p> - -<p>It has been stated in print that the signification of Tote-ack-ah-noo-la -was “Crane Mountain,” and that the name -was given because of the habit sand-hill cranes had of entering -the valley over this cliff. I never knew of this habit. -Many erroneous statements relating to the Yosemite have -appeared—some in Appleton’s Encyclopædia, and one very -amusing one in Bancroft’s Traditions—but none appear to -me more improbable.</p> - -<p>During our long stay at our second visit, this cliff was -invariably called by our scouts Tote-ack-ah-noo-la, and with -some slight difference in the terminal syllable, was so called -by Ten-ie-ya. This word was invariably translated to mean -the “Rock Chief,” or “The Captain.”</p> - -<p>Upon one occasion I asked, “Why do you call the cliff -Tote-ack-ah-noo-la?” The Indian’s reply was, “Because he -looks like one.” I then asked, “What was meant by <i>he</i>?” -at the same time saying that the cliff was not a man, to be -called “he.” His reply was, “Come with me and see.” -Taking Sandino with me, I went, and as the Indian reached -a point a little above and some distance out from the cliff, -he triumphantly pointed to the perfect image of a man’s -head and face, with side whiskers, and with an expression -of the sturdy English type, and asked, “Does he not look -like Tote-ack-ah-noo-la?” The “Rock Chief,” or “Captain,” -was again Sandino’s interpretation of the word while -viewing the likeness.</p> - -<p>This was the first intimation that any of us had of the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">211</span> -reason why the name was applied, and it was <i>shown</i> in response -to the question asked, why the rock had been personified.</p> - -<p>To-tor-kon, is the name for a sand-hill crane, and ni-yul-u-ka, -is the Pai-ute for head; but “crane-head” can scarcely -be manufactured out of Tote-ack-ah-noo-la. It appears -to me most probable that Tote-ack-ah-noo-la is derived from -“ack,” a rock, and To-whon-e-o, meaning chief. I am not -etymologist enough to understand just how the word has -been constructed, but am satisfied that the primates of the -compound are rock and chief. If, however, I am found in -error, I shall be most willing to acknowledge it, for few -things appear more uncertain, or more difficult to obtain, -than a complete understanding of the <i>soul</i> of an Indian -language; principally because of the ignorance and suspicion -with which a persistent and thorough research is met -by the sensitively vain and jealous savages.</p> - -<p>In leaving this subject, I would say that before it be too -late, a careful and full collection of vocabularies of <i>all</i> the -tongues should be made. I am aware of what has already -been done by the labors of Schoolcraft, and the officers of -the army in more modern times; but there is yet left a -large field for persistent labor, that should be worked by -the Smithsonian Institute or ethnological societies.</p> - -<p>In adopting the Spanish interpretation, “El Capitan,” -for Tote-ack-ah-noo-la, we pleased our mission interpreters -and conferred upon the majestic cliff a name corresponding -to its dignity. When this name was approved it set aside -forever those more numerous than belong to royal families. -It is said by Mr. Hutchings that a profile likeness is readily -traced on the angle of the cliff. The one pointed out -to me was above the pine tree alcove on the southern face -of the cliff, half way up its wall. It appeared to have been -formed by the peculiar conformation of the rock and oxidation. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">212</span> -The chemical stain of iron, or other mineral substance, -had produced this representation, which was looked -upon with superstitious awe.</p> - -<p>“The Fallen Rocks,” “The Frog Mountains,” or “Three -Brothers,” the “Yosemite Falls,” “The Lost Arrow,” “Indian -Cañon” and “The Arrow-wood Rocks” have already -been noticed in these pages. It remains for me to briefly -notice a few more objects and close this chapter. The -names “North Dome,” “South Dome” and “Half Dome” -were given by us during our long stay in the valley from -their localities and peculiar configuration. Some changes -have been made since they were adopted. The peak called -by us the “South Dome” has since been given the name -of “Sentinel Dome,” and the “Half Dome,” Tis-sa-ack, -represented as meaning the “Cleft Rock,” is now called -by many the “South Dome.”<a id="FNanchor_17" href="#Footnote_17" class="fnanchor">17</a> The name for the “North -Dome” is To-ko-ya, its literal signification “The Basket.” -The name given to the rocks now known as “The Royal -Arches” is Scho-ko-ya when alluding to the fall, and means -the “Basket Fall,” as coming from To-ko-ya, and when referring -to the rock itself it was called Scho-ko-ni, meaning -the movable shade to a cradle, which, when in position, -formed an arched shade over the infant’s head. The name -of “The Royal Arch” was given to it by a comrade who -was a member of the Masonic Fraternity, and it has since -been called “The Royal Arches.” The “Half Dome” was -figuratively spoken of as “The Sentinel” by our mission -Indians, because of its overlooking the valley. The present -“Sentinel” they called “Loya,” a corruption of Olla (Oya), -Spanish for an earthen water-pot. The mountain tribes -use, instead, a long-pointed basket, shaped somewhat like -that rock, which the basket is supposed to resemble. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">213</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="i_213" src="images/i_213.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">SENTINEL ROCK.</p> - -<p class="copy">(3,043 feet in height.)</p></div> - -<p>The name of “Glacier Point” is said to be Pa-til-le-ma, -a translation of which I am unable to give. Ho-yas, and -not Lo-ya, as has been stated by some, referred to certain -holes in detached rocks west of the Sentinel, which afforded -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">214</span> -“milling privileges” for a number of squaws, and hence, -the locality was a favorite camp ground. “The Sentinel” -or “Loya,” simply marked the near locality of the Ho-yas -or mortars, or “<i>The</i> camp ground;” as it does now <i>The -Hotels</i>. It was a common practice for visitors to confer -new names on the objects of their enthusiastic admiration, -and these were frequently given to the public through letters -to newspapers, while others may be found in the more -enduring monuments of literature. It is a matter of no -surprise that so few of them ever <i>stuck</i>. But little change -has really been made in the English names for the more -important objects within the valley and in its immediate -vicinity. The Cathedral Rocks and spires, known as Poo-see-na-chuc-ka, -meaning “Mouse-proof Rocks,” from a -fancied resemblance in shape to their acorn magazines or -<i>cachés</i>, or a suitability for such use, have been somewhat -individualized by their English names.</p> - -<p>Of Ko-sü-kong, the name of the “Three Graces,” I never -learned the meaning. Ta-pun-ie-me-te is derived from Ta-pun-ie, -meaning the toes, because of walking on tip-toes -across, and referred to the “stepping stones” that were at -the lower ford. Mr. Travis’ “succession of rocks” simply -indicated the <i>turning-off</i> place. There are other names -that it appears unimportant for me to notice. They have -been sufficiently well preserved in Professor Whitney’s valuable -Guide Book.</p> - -<p>Some romantic believers in the natural tendencies of the -Indians to be poetical in their expressions, twist the most -vulgar common-place expressions and names into significations -poetically refined, and of devotional sincerity.</p> - -<p>Others have taken the same license in their desire to cater -to the taste of those credulous admirers of the <small>NOBLE RED MAN</small>, -the ideal of romance, the reality of whom is graded low -down in the scale of humanity. Mr. Hutchings, who, were -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">215</span> -it not for his exuberant imagination, might have learned -better, gives the signification of “Lung-oo-to-koo-ya” as -“Long and Slender,” and applies it to what he calls the -Ribbon Fall. His name is better than his interpretation. -Mr. H. also says that the signification of To-toc-ah-nü-la is -“a Semi-Deity;” that of “Tissa-ack” “Goddess of the -Valley,” and that Po-ho-no means “The Spirit of the Evil -Wind.”</p> - -<p>These interpretations, like the “sparkling shower of crystals” -are more artistically imaginative than correct. The -Pai-ute for wind, is Ni-gat, and the Kah-we-ah, is Yah-i, -one or the other of which tongues were used by the Yosemites; -though the Pai-ute, or a dialect of it, was given the -preference.</p> - -<p>The savages <i>have</i> a crude, undefinable idea of a Deity or -Great Spirit, a Spirit of Good, who never does them harm, -and whose home is in the happy land they hope to reach -after death. This happy hereafter, is supposed by most on -the western slope of the Sierras to be located in the West, -while those on the eastern slope or within the Colorado -Basin, in Arizona and in Mexico, locate it in the East. -They all have a superstitious fear of evil spirits, which they -believe have the power to do them great harm, and defeat -their undertakings.</p> - -<p>They do not as a rule look to the Great Spirit for immediate -protection from evil, but instead, rely upon amulets, -incense and charms, or “<i>medicine</i>” bags. Through these -and certain ceremonies of their priests or “mediums,” they -endeavor to protect themselves and their families from the -evil influence of spirits in and out of the flesh.</p> - -<p>They believe that the spirits of the dead who have not, -through proper ceremonies, been released from the body -and allowed at once to go to the happy land, were evil spirits -that were doomed to haunt certain localities. They -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">216</span> -looked with superstitious awe upon objects and localities, -which to them were of mysterious character. Even familiar -objects were sometimes looked upon as having been taken -possession of by spirits. These spirits it was supposed -could do injury to those who might venture near them -without the protection afforded by their charms, or certain -offerings to their priests for indulgences from the spiritual -inhabitants. Streams were often said to be controlled by -spirits, and for this reason, offerings of tobacco and other -substances were at times thrown in as a propitiation for -past offenses, or as an offering for something in expectancy. -They believe that the elements are all under control, or may -be used by the more powerful spirits, and, owing probably -to its infrequency in California, lightning seemed to be an -especial object of awe and wonder to them.</p> - -<p>Waterfalls seemed not to engage their attention for their -beauty, but because of the power they manifested; and in -none of their objections made to the abandonment of their -home, was there anything said to indicate any appreciation -of the scenery. Their misfortunes, accidents and failures -were generally believed to have resulted from evil spiritual -interference, and to insure success in any undertaking, -these dark or evil spirits must first be conciliated through -their “medicine men,” from whom they obtain absolution.</p> - -<p>All spirits that had not been released and taken their -flight to their happy Western spirit-land were considered as -evil; and only the Great Spirit was believed to be very good. -The Indians of the Yosemite Valley did not look upon Tote-ack-ah-nü-lah -as a veritable Deity or “semi-Deity.” They -looked upon this cliff, and the representation of the likeness -of a human face, with the same mysterious awe and superstitious -feeling that they entertained for some other objects; -though perhaps their reverence was in a somewhat higher -degree stimulated by this imposing human appearance; and -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">217</span> -their ability, therefore, the better to personify it. They regarded -this vast mountain as an emblem of some mysterious -power, beyond their comprehension. From my knowledge -of their <i>religious belief</i>, I have come to the conclusion that -their ideas in this direction are wholly spiritual, without -material representation, except as stated, through symbolic -ideas, growing out of their superstitious ignorance, like -some ignorant Christians. They have in imagination peopled -the rocks and mountains, woods and valleys, streams -and waterfalls with innumerable spiritual occupants, possessed -of supernatural or spiritual powers, none of which -are believed by them to equal the power of the Great Spirit -whose home is in the West, and who prohibits the return -of the evil ones, until a probationary existence here upon -this earth shall have given them such knowledge of and -disgust with evil as will fit them for the enjoyment of good.</p> - -<p>The special inconsistency of this belief seems to be, that -if one of these demons can lure any one to destruction, the -victim will be compelled to take the place and occupation -of the evil spirit, who is at once liberated and takes its flight -to join its family or such members of it, as are already with -the blessed. This idea seemed to be based upon the natural -selfishness of human nature, that would gladly fix its responsibilities -and sufferings upon another. A writer in his -descriptions of the Yosemite says: “The savage lowers his -voice to a whisper, and crouches tremblingly past Po-ho-no, -while the very utterance of the name is so dreaded by him, -that the discoverers of the valley obtained it with difficulty.” -These statements were prefaced by the assertion that -“Po-ho-no is an evil spirit of the Indians’ mythology.” On -our second visit to the valley, it will be remembered, we -found huts built by the Yosemites not far from the Po-ho-no -Fall.</p> - -<p>I never found any difficulty in learning the name of this -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">218</span> -fall, or observed any more fear of spirits exhibited at this -fall than at the Yosemite fall; but in later years, for causes -that will appear in the course of this narrative, the little -meadow and detached rocks west of Po-ho-no, and near to -the foot of the Mariposa trail; became haunted ground to -the remnant of the band, for disaster and death followed -the commission of crime at that locality.</p> - -<p>Savages are seldom able to trace to themselves the cause -of misfortune, and hence evil spirits must bear the burden -of their complaint. For this service they are well paid -through their representatives, the “medicine men.” I have -often been amused, and agreeably entertained while listening -to their traditionary literature.</p> - -<p>Among the Chippewa and Dahcota tribes, my likeness to -a brother, who was a trader, was recognized, and many -times I was honored by a prominent place being given me -in their lodges and at their dances. Some of their mysteries -I was not permitted to witness, but the consecration of -the ground for the dance, which is performed with great -ceremony, I have several times seen, and had its signification -fully explained to me. The ceremony differs but little among -the different tribes, and consists of invocations, burning incense, -scattering down, feathers and evergreens upon the -pathway or floor of the dance, lighting of the sacred fires -with their ancient fire-sticks, which are still preserved -among the priests, and repeating certain cabalistic words, -the meaning of which they do not even pretend to understand, -but which are supposed to have a most potent influence. -They also have their pantomimes and romances, -which they repeat to each other like children. This legendary -literature is largely imaginative, but I found the California -Indians less poetical in thought and feeling than eastern -tribes, and less musical, though perhaps as primitively -figurative in expression. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">219</span></p> - -<p>Though seemingly unimpressed by their sublime surroundings, -their figures and comparisons, when not objectionable, -were beautiful, because natural. The Pai-ute and -Mono Colony originally established by Ten-ie-ya, was the -result of a desire to improve their physical condition. They -were attached to this valley as a home. The instinctive -attraction that an Indian has for his place of nativity is -incomprehensible; it is more than a religious sentiment; -it is a passion. Here, sheltered in a measure from the -storms of winter, and the burning heat of summer, they met -as in an earthly paradise, to exchange the products of either -side of the Sierras, to engage in a grand hunt and festival -offer up religious sacrifices, and awaken the echoes of the -valley with their vociferous orations. Should their skill -fail them in the chase, and the mountain or brook refuse -their luscious offerings, they had a never-failing resource in -the skill with which they could dispossess the native Californian, -or the newly arrived immigrant of his much prized -herds, and <i>translate</i> them to their mountain home. Nor -was there need of herd-men to guard their fleecy flocks or -roving herds, for the -prancing horse or gentle -kine, having once -been slid over the slippery -gateway, avoided -the obstruction ever -after; and remained -contented in their -fields of blue grass -and clover.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="i_219" src="images/i_219.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">THE INDIAN BELLE.</p></div> - -<p>But, when the influence -of the “golden -era” finally reached -this once blissfully ignorant -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">220</span> -people, and wants were created that their belles and -beaux had never known before, their imaginations excited -by the superfluities of civilization, their natural cunning -came at once to their aid, and lo! the “honest miner” -or timid Chinaman contributed from their scanty stores -and wardrobes, or the poorly sheltered goods of the mountain -trader opened their canvas walls to the keen arguments -of their flinty knives, and wants real or fancied were at once -supplied.</p> - -<p>What then was there lacking, to make the Yosemites a -happy people, removed as they were from the bad influences -of whiskey and the white man’s injustice? Only this: “the -whites would not let them alone.” So Ten-ie-ya had said, -as if aggrieved. Like all his race, and perhaps like all ignorant, -passionate and willful persons, he appeared unconscious -of his own wrong-doing, and of the inevitable fate -that he was bringing upon himself and his people.</p> - -<p>In his talk with Major Savage, he had spoken of the -verdure clothing the valley, as sufficient for his wants, but -at the time, knowing that acorns formed the staple of their -food, and that clover, grass, sorrel and the inner bark of -trees were used to guard against biliousness and eruptive -diseases, little heed was given to his declaration. Now, -however, that we saw the valley clothed with exquisite and -useful verdure, for June was now at hand, Ten-ie-ya’s remarks -had a greater significance, and we could understand -how large flocks and herds had been stolen, and fattened to -supply their wants. The late claimants to this lovely locality, -“this great moral show,” have been relieved of their -charge by act of Congress, and fifty thousand dollars given -them for their claims. It will probably now remain forever -free to visitors. The builders of the toll roads and -trails should also receive fair compensation for their pioneer -labors in building them, that they may also be free to all. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">221</span> -When this is done, this National Park will be esteemed entirely -worthy of this great republic and of the great golden -State that has accepted its guardianship.<a id="FNanchor_18" href="#Footnote_18" class="fnanchor">18</a></p> - -<p>Perhaps no one can better than myself realize the value -of the labors performed by the early pioneers, that has made -it possible for tourists to visit in comfort some of the most -prominent objects of interest; but “<i>a National Park</i>” -should be entirely free. In suggesting a new name for -the fall of Too-lool-lo-we-ack, or the absurd “Illiluette,” I -wish to honor Mr. Muir for his intelligent explorations -and discoveries, and at the same time feel that the word -glacier is the most appropriate. Of this, however, the residents -of the valley will judge.</p> - -<p>The names of the different objects and localities of especial -interest have now become well established by use. It -is not a matter of so much surprise that there is such a difference -in the orthography of the names. I only wonder -that they have been retained in a condition to be recognized. -It is not altogether the fault of the interpreters that discrepancies -exist in interpretation or pronunciation, although -both are often undesignedly warped to conform to the ideality -of the interpreter. Many of the names have been modernized -and adorned with <i>transparencies</i> in order to illuminate -the subject of which the parties were writing. Those -who once inhabited this region, and gave distinctive appellations, -have all disappeared. The names given by them -can be but indifferently preserved or counterfeited by their -camp followers, the “California Diggers;” but June is now -with us, and we must hasten on to our work of following -up the trail. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">222</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV.</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>A Mountain Storm—Delay of Supplies—Clams and Ipecac—Arrival of -Train—A Cute Indian—Indian Sagacity—A Dangerous Weapon—Capture -of Indian Village—An Eloquent Chief—Woman’s Rights -<i>versus</i> Squaw’s Wrongs—A Disturbed Family—A Magnificent Sunrise—On -a Slippery Slope—Sentiment and Poetry—Arrival at the -Fresno.</p></blockquote> - -<p>A mountain storm raged with such violence as to stampede -the mules of the pack-train while the escort were encamped -on the South Fork. The mules were not overtaken -until they reached the foot-hills of the Fresno. In the meantime, -while impatiently awaiting their return, our rations -gave out. In order to somewhat appease our hunger, Dr. -Black distributed his hospital stores among us. There were -some canned fruits and meats, and several cans of oysters -and clams. The southerners of the command waived -their rights to the clams, but cast lots for the oysters. -Thinking we had a prize in the clams, we brought to bear -our early recollections of Eastern life, and compounded a -most excellent and, what we supposed would be, a most -nourishing soup. Our enjoyment, however, of this highly -prized New England dish was of short duration; for from -some cause, never satisfactorily explained by Dr. Black, <i>or -other eminent counsel</i>, our Eastern mess, as if moved by -one impulse of re-gurgitation, <i>gave up their clams</i>. Fortunately -for us our supplies arrived the next morning; for -the game procurable was not sufficient for the command. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">223</span> -Major Savage sent Cow-chitty, a brother of Pon-wat-chee, -the chief of the Noot-choo band, whose village we surprised -before we discovered the valley, as chief of scouts. He was -accompanied by several young warriors, selected because -they were all familiar with the Sierra Nevada trails and -the territory of the Pai-utes, where it was thought probable -the expedition would penetrate.</p> - -<p>Captain Boling had in his report to Major Savage, complained -of the incapacity of Sandino as guide, and expressed -the opinion that he stood in awe of Ten-ie-ya. By letter, -the Major replied, and particularly advised Captain Boling -that implicit confidence could be placed in Cow-chitty and -his scouts, as the sub-chief was an old enemy of Ten-ie-ya, -and was esteemed for his sagacity and wood-craft, which -was superior to that of any Indian in his tribe. Captain -Boling had improved in health and strength, and concluded -to venture on his contemplated expedition over the mountains. -He at once ordered preparations to be made. A -camp-guard was detailed, and a special supply train fitted -out. All was ready for a start in the morning. During -the evening Captain Boling consulted our new guide as to -what trail would be best to follow to the Mono pass and over -the mountains. Cow-chitty had already learned from our -Po-ho-no scouts and those of his own tribe, the extent of our -explorations, and had had a long talk with Sandino as well -as with Ten-ie-ya. The mission Indian and the old chief -tried to make the new guide believe that the Yosemites -had gone over the mountains to the Monos. Indian-like, -he had remained very grave and taciturn, while the preparations -were going on for the expedition. Now, however, -that he was consulted by Captain Boling, he was willing -enough to give his advice, and in a very emphatic manner -declared his belief to the Captain that Ten-ie-ya’s people -were not far off; that they were either hiding in some of -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">224</span> -the rocky cañons in the vicinity of the valley, or in those -of the Tuolumne, and discouraged the idea of attempting -the expedition with horses. Although this did not coincide -with the views of our Captain, the earnestness of Cow-chitty -decided him to make another attempt in the near vicinity -before crossing the mountains. The horses and supply-train -were accordingly left in camp, and we started at -daylight on foot, with three days’ rations packed in our -blankets. We left the valley this time by way of the Py-we-ack -cañon, and ascended the north cliff trail, a short -distance above “Mirror Lake.” Soon after reaching the -summit, Indian signs were discovered near the trail we -were on. The old trail up the slope of the cañon, was here -abandoned, and the fresh trail followed up to and along the -ridges just below the snow line. These signs and the tortuous -course pursued, were similar to the tracks followed on -our trip up Indian Cañon, and were as easily traced until we -reached an elevation almost entirely covered with snow from -five to ten feet deep, except on exposed tops of ridges, where -the snow had blown off to the north side or melted away.</p> - -<p>I had accompanied our guide in advance of the command, -but observing that our course was a zig-zag one, some -times almost doubling on our trail, I stopped and told the -guide to halt until the Captain came up. He had been following -the ridges without a sign of a trail being visible, -although he had sometimes pointed to small pieces of coarse -granite on the rocky divides, which he said had been displaced -by Ten-ie-ya’s scouts. That in going out or returning -from their camps, they had kept on the rocky ridges, -and had avoided tracking the snow or soft ground, so as to -prevent the Americans from following them. As we stopped, -he called me a little out of hearing of those with me, -and by pantomime and a few words indicated his belief in -the near presence of Indians. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">225</span></p> - -<p>When the Captain came up he said: “The hiding-place -of the Yosemites is not far off. If they had crossed the -mountains their scouts would not be so careful to hide their -trail. They would follow the old trail if they came to -watch you, because it is direct, and would only hide their -tracks when they were again far from the valley and near -their rancheria.” This was, in part, an answer to Captain -Boling’s inquiry as to why we had left the old trail, and -gone so far out of our way. I explained to him what Cow-chitty -had stated, and pointed out what the guide or scout -said was a fresh trail. The Captain looked tired and disheartened, -but with a grim smile said: “That may be a -fresh Indian track, but I can’t see it. If left to my own -feelings and judgment, I should say we were on another -wild-goose chase. If the guide can see tracks, and thinks -he has got ’em this time, I reckon it is better to follow on; -but if there is any short-cut tell him to give us some landmarks -to go by; for I find I am not as strong as I thought. -Let us take another look at this <i>fresh</i> trail, and then you may -get Cow-chitty’s idea as to the probable course this trail -will take further on.” As we moved up the trail a little -farther, the expert scout pointed out more fresh signs, but -Captain Boling failed to discern a trail, and gave up the -examination, and as he seated himself for a momentary rest, -said: “I reckon it is all right, Doc. The Major says in his -letter that I can bet on Cow-chitty every time. But I can’t -see any more of a trail on this rocky ridge than I can see -the trail of that wood-pecker as he flies through the air, but -I have some faith in instinct, for I reckon that is what it is -that enables him to follow a trail that he imagines should -be there. We shall have to trust him to follow it, and let -him have his own way as you would a fox-hound; if he -don’t, puppy-like, take the back track, or run wild with us -over some of these ledges.” Old Ten-ie-ya was now appealed -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">226</span> -to for information concerning the fresh signs, but he -only reiterated his former statement that his people had -gone over the mountains to the Monos, and the signs he said -were those of Tuolumne Indians. Captain Boling had -taken the old chief along with us on this trip, hoping to -make him of some use, if not directly as guide, indirectly; -it was thought he might betray his people’s hiding-place. -But the Captain was disappointed in this, for no finished -gamester ever displayed a more immovable countenance -than did Ten-ie-ya when questioned at any time during the -expedition. A cord had again been placed around his -waist to secure his allegiance, and as we were about to -move ahead once more, he very gravely said that if we followed -the signs, they would take us over to the Tuolumne.</p> - -<p>Before this Sandino had professed to agree with Ten-ie-ya, -but now he carefully withheld his own opinions, and as -carefully rendered his interpretations. He feared Cow-chitty -more than Ten-ie-ya; and he was frequently seen to -cross himself while muttering his prayers. Spencer and -myself re-assured the timid creature, and made him quite -happy by telling him that we would guard him against the -“Gentiles,” as he called the natives.</p> - -<p>I explained to Cow-chitty our inability to follow the -tracks as he did over the bare granite. This flattered -him, and he then pointed out his own method of doing so, -which was simple enough with one of keen sight. It consisted -entirely in discovering fragments of stone and moss -that had been displaced, and broken off and scattered upon -the ground. The upper surface of the broken fragments -of stone were smooth and bleached, while the under surface -was dark or colored. It was impossible to walk over -these stony ridges without displacing some of the fragments, -and these the quick eye of Cow-chitty was sure to -discover. Cow-chitty was pleased when told of Captain -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">227</span> -Boling’s appreciation of his sagacity, and honored by the -confidence the Captain began to show him. He expressed -his gratification by being more communicative than he had -been before. He said, “These signs tell me that the Yosemite -scouts have been watching all the movements of the -Americans, and the trails that will take you to their camps. -They will not look for you on this trail. They are watching -for you from the ridges nearer the valley. We will -not have to go far to find their camps. This trail will lead -us to the head of the Py-we-ack, where the Pai-ute or Mono -trail crosses into the upper valley of the Tuolumne; and if -we don’t find them at the lake, we will soon know if they -have crossed the mountains.”</p> - -<p>He then proposed that Captain Boling send out scouts to -intercept and capture the Yosemite scouts, who might be -below us watching the valley. This being interpreted to -Captain Boling, he at once adopted the suggestion of the -scout. He selected three of our best runners, and directed -Cow-chitty to select three of his. These were sent out in -pairs—an Indian and a white man. The scouts were -placed under direction of the sub-chief, who followed the -trail, and indicated to the Captain the most direct route for -the main body to follow. In health Captain Boling was -athletic and ambitious on the march. He had now, however, -over-estimated his strength, and suffered considerably -from fatigue; but the halt afforded him a rest that very -much refreshed him. I traveled with him during the remainder -of the march, so as to be near him as interpreter, -and took charge of Ten-ie-ya. The Captain, Ten-ie-ya, Sandino -and myself traveled together. Our march was more -leisurely than in the earlier part of the day. This allowed -Captain Boling to somewhat recover from his fatigue.</p> - -<p>On an ascending spur that ran down to the Py-we-ack, we -found Cow-chitty quietly awaiting our approach. As we -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">228</span> -halted, he pointed out to Captain Boling a dim circle of blue -smoke, that appeared to eddy under the lee of a large granite -knob or peak, and said, “Rancheria.” Old Ten-ie-ya -was standing in front of me, but exhibited no interest in -the discovery. As I lowered my line of vision to the base -of the cliff, to trace the source of the smoke, there appeared -the Indian village, resting in fancied security, upon the border -of a most beautiful little lake, seemingly not more than -a half mile away. To the lake I afterwards gave the name -of Ten-ie-ya. The granite knob was so bare, smooth and -glistening, that Captain Boling at once pointed it out, and -selected it as a landmark. He designated it as a rallying -point for his men, if scattered in pursuit, and said that we -should probably camp near it for the night.</p> - -<p>While the Captain was studying the nature of the ground -before us, and making his arrangements to capture the village, -our scouts were discovered in full chase of an Indian -picket, who was running towards the village as if his life -depended upon his efforts. In the excitement of the moment -Captain Boling ordered us to double-quick and charge, -thinking, as he afterwards said, that the huts could not be -much more than half a mile away. Such a mistake could -only originate in the transparent air of the mountains. The -village was fully two miles or more away. We did, however, -double-quick, and I kept a gait that soon carried Ten-ie-ya -and Sandino, with myself, ahead of our scattering column. -Finding the rope with which I held Ten-ie-ya an -encumbrance in our rapid march, I wound it round his -shoulder and kept him in front of me. While passing a -steep slope of overlapping granite rock, the old chief made -a sudden spring to the right, and attempted to escape down -the ragged precipice. His age was against him, for I caught -him just as he was about to let himself drop from the projecting -ledge to the ground below; his feet were already -over the brink. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">229</span></p> - -<p>I felt somewhat angered at the trick of the old fellow in -attempting to relieve himself from my custody, and the -delay it had occasioned me; for we had taken the most -direct although not the smoothest course. I resumed our -advance at a gait that hurried the old sachem forward, perhaps -less carefully and more rapidly than comported with -the dignity of his years and rank. I was amused at the -proposition of one of the “boys” who had witnessed the -transaction, to “shoot the old devil, and not be bothered -with him any more.” I of course declined this humane -proposition to relieve me of further care, and at once became -the chief’s most devoted defender, which observing, he -afterwards told Captain Boling that I was “very good.” As -we reached the more gently descending ground near the -bottom of the slope, an Indian came running up the trail -below us that led to the Rancheria. His course was at an -acute angle to the one pursued by us toward the village, -which was now but a few rods off. I ordered Sandino to -cut him off and capture him before he should reach the -camp. This was accomplished with great energy and a -good degree of pride.</p> - -<p>The Yosemites had already discovered our approach, but -too late for any concerted resistance or for successful escape, -for Lt. Crawford at the head of a portion of the command, -dashed at once into the center of the encampment, and the -terror-stricken Indians immediately threw up their bare -hands in token of submission, and piteously cried out “pace! -pace!” (peace, peace). As I halted to disarm the scout -captured by Sandino, I was near enough to the camp to -hear the expressions of submission. I was compelled to -laugh at the absurd performances of Sandino, who to terrify -his prisoner, was persistently holding in his face an old -double-barreled pistol. I was aware the weapon was a -harmless one, for one hammer was gone, and the other could -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">230</span> -not be made to explode a cap. I took the bow and arrows -from the frightened savage, and as Captain Boling came up I -reported the capture, telling him at the same time of the -surrender of the village or Rancheria to Lt. Crawford. Seeing -some of the Indians leaving the camp, and running down -the lake to a trail crossing its outlet, the Captain and the -men with him sprang forward through the grove of pines -near the crossing, and drove them back. No show of resistance -was offered, neither did any escape from us.</p> - -<p>While Captain Boling was counting his prisoners and corralling -them with a guard, I, by his previous order, restrained -Ten-ie-ya from any communication with his people. The -chief of this village was a young man of perhaps thirty -years of age. When called upon by the Captain to state -how many were under his command, he answered that those -in the encampment were all that was left; the rest had scattered -and returned to the tribes they sprung from. Ten-ie-ya -seemed very anxious to answer the interrogations -made to the young chief, but Captain Boling would not -allow his farther interference, and jokingly told me to send -him over among the women who were grouped a little aside, -as he was now about as harmless. I acted upon the suggestion, -and upon his being told that he had the liberty of -the camp if he made no further attempts to escape, the old -fellow stepped off briskly to meet his four squaws, who -were with this band, and who seemed as pleased as himself -at their re-union.</p> - -<p>Captain Boling felt satisfied that the answer given by this -half-starved chief, and the few braves of his wretched looking -band, were as truthful as their condition would corroborate. -Finding themselves so completely surprised, notwithstanding -their extreme vigilance, and comparing the -well kept appearance of their old chief with their own worn -out, dilapidated condition, they with apparent anxiety expressed -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">231</span> -a willingness for the future to live in peace with the -Americans. All hopes of avoiding a treaty, or of preventing -their removal to the Reservation, appeared to have at -once been abandoned; for when the young chief was asked -if he and his band were willing to go to the Fresno, he replied -with much emotion of gesture, and as rendered by -Sandino to Spencer and myself: “Not only willing, but -anxious;” for, said he: “Where can we now go that the -Americans will not follow us?” As he said this, he stretched -his arms out toward the East, and added: “Where can we -make our homes, that you will not find us?” He then went -on and stated that they had fled to the mountains without -food or clothing; that they were worn out from watching -our scouts, and building <i>signal-fires</i> to tire us out also.</p> - -<p>They had been anxious to embroil us in trouble by drawing -us into the cañons of the Tuolumne, where were some -Pai-utes wintering in a valley like Ah-wah-ne. They had -hoped to be secure in this retreat until the snow melted, so -that they could go to the Mono tribe and make a home with -them, but that now he was told the Americans would follow -them even there, he was willing, with all his little band, to -go to the plains with us. After the young chief had been -allowed full liberty of speech, and had sat down, Ten-ie-ya -again came forward, and would have doubtless made a <i>confession -of faith</i>, but his speech was cut short by an order -from Captain Boling to at once move camp to a beautiful -pine grove on the north side of the outlet to the lake, which -he had selected for our camping-place for the night. By -this order he was able to have everything in readiness for an -early start the next morning. There was an abundance of -dry pine, convenient for our camp fires, and as the night was -exceedingly cold, the glowing fires were a necessity to our -comfort. The Indians were told to pack such movables as -they desired to take with them, and move down at once to -our camp-ground. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">232</span></p> - -<p>The scene was a busy one. The squaws and children exhibited -their delight in the prospect of a change to a more -genial locality, and where food would be plenty. While -watching the preparations of the squaws for the transfer of -their household treasures and scanty stores, my attention -was directed to a dark object that appeared to be crawling up -the base of the first granite peak above their camp. The polished -surface of the gleaming rock made the object appear -larger than the reality. We were unable to determine what -kind of an animal it could be; but one of our scouts, to -whom the name of “Big Drunk” had been given, pronounced -it a papoose, although some had variously called it -a bear, a fisher or a coon. “Big Drunk” started after it, -and soon returned with a bright, active boy, entirely naked, -which he coaxed from his slippery perch. Finding himself -an object of curiosity his fright subsided, and he drew -from its hiding-place, in the bushes near by, a garment that -somewhat in shape, at least, resembled a man’s shirt. “<i>The -Glistening Rocks</i>” had rendered us all oblivious to the color, -and that was left undetermined. This garment swept the -ground after he had clothed himself with it. His ludicrous -appearance excited our laughter, and as if pleased with the -attentions paid to him, the little fellow joined heartily in -the merriment he occasioned. It will not be out of place -to here relate the sequel of this boy’s history. Learning -that he was an orphan and without relatives, Captain Boling -adopted him, calling him “Reube,” in honor of Lt. -Reuben Chandler, who after Captain Boling was the most -popular man in the battalion.</p> - -<p>Some three or four years afterward, the boy, as if to illustrate -the folly of the Captain in trying to civilize and -educate him, ran away from his patron, taking with him -two valuable, thorough-bred Tennessee horses, much prized -by the Captain; besides money, clothing and arms belonging -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">233</span> -to the Captain’s brother-in-law, Col. Lane, of Stockton, -in whose charge Captain Boling had placed him, that he -might have the advantages of a good school. After collecting -together all the Indians found in this encampment; the -total number was found to be but thirty-five, nearly all of -whom were in some way a part of the family of the old -patriarch, Ten-ie-ya. These were escorted to our camp, the -men placed under guard, but the women and children were -left free.</p> - -<p>This was accomplished before sun down, and being relieved -of duty, a few of us ran across the outlet of the lake, -and climbing the divide on the south side of the lake, beheld -a sunset view that will long be remembered. It was -dark when we reached camp, and after a scanty repast, we -spread our blankets, and soon were wrapped in slumber -sweet.</p> - -<p>We were awakened by the cold, which became more uncomfortable -as night advanced, and finding it impossible to -again compose ourselves to sleep, Captain Boling aroused -the camp, and preparations were made by the light of the -blazing camp-fires for an early start for the valley. Desiring -some clean, fresh water, I went to the lake as the nearest -point to obtain it, when, to my surprise, I found that the -new ice formed during the night and connecting the old ice -with the shore of the lake, was strong enough to bear me -up. At a point where the old ice had drifted near, I went -out some distance upon it, and it appeared strong enough -to have borne up a horse. This was about the 5th of June, -1851. The change of temperature from summer in the valley -to winter on the mountains, without shelter, was felt by -us all. After a hasty breakfast, the word was passed to assemble, -and we were soon all ready for the order to march. -All at once there was turmoil and strife in camp, and what -sounded to my ears very much like a Chinese concert. Captain -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">234</span> -Boling was always a man of gallantry, and in this instance -would not allow the squaws to take the burden of the -baggage. Hence the confusion and delay. He ordered the -Indians to carry the packs—burdens they had imposed on -their women. This order brought down upon him the vituperations -of the squaws and sullen murmurs from the -“noble red men;” as often happens in domestic interference, -<i>the family was offended</i>. Ten-ie-ya rose to explain, and -waxed eloquent in his protest against this innovation on -their ancient customs.</p> - -<p>As soon as the Captain was made aware of the old fellow’s -object in having “a talk,” he cut short the debate by -ordering one of the lieutenants to see that every Indian, as -well as squaw, was properly loaded with a just proportion -of their burdens. The real object of the Captain was to facilitate -the return to the valley, by making it easy for the -squaws and children to accompany us through without delays. -One amusing feature in this arrangement was, that -long after the men had been silenced, their squaws continued -to murmur at the indignity practiced on their disgraced -lords. I have my doubts, even to this day, whether the -standard of women’s rights was ever again <i>waved</i> among -the mountain tribes after this “special order” was issued by -our good-hearted Captain.</p> - -<p>In order to take the most direct route to the valley, Captain -Boling selected one of the young Yosemite Indians to -lead the way with our regular guide. Being relieved of the -charge of Ten-ie-ya, I took my usual place on the march -with the guide. This position was preferred by me, because -it afforded ample opportunity for observation and time for -reflection; and beside, it was in my nature to be in advance. -The trail followed, after leaving the lake, led us over bare -granite slopes and hidden paths, but the distance was materially -shortened. A short distance below the bottom land -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">235</span> -of the lake, on the north side of the cañon and at the head -of the gorge, the smooth, sloping granite projects like a vast -roof over the abyss below. As we approached this, our -young guide pointed toward it.</p> - -<p>By close observation I was able to discover that the trail -led up its sloping surface, and was assured by the guide -that the trail was a good one. I felt doubtful of the Captain’s -willingness to scale that rocky slope, and halted for -him to come up. The Captain followed the trail to its termination -in the soil, and saw the cause of my having halted. -Upon the discoloration of the rock being pointed out as the -continuation of the trail, he glanced up the granite slope -and said, “Go on, but be watchful, for a slide into the -gorge would bring as certain death as a slide from that San -Joaquin trail, which I have not yet forgotten.” Some of -the command did not fancy this any more than they did the -Ten-ie-ya trail down “Indian Cañon.” We all pulled off -our hoots and went up this slope bare-footed. Seeing there -was no real danger, the most timid soon moved up as fearless -as the others. I, with the advance, soon reached the -soil above, and at the top halted until the Indians and our -straggling column closed up. As I looked about me, I discovered, -unfolding to my sight, one of the most charming -views in this sublimest scenery of nature. During the day -before, we had looked with astonishment on the almost -boundless peaks, and snow-capped mountains, to be seen -from the Mt. Hoffman divide. But here some of the same -views appeared illuminated. In our ascent up the mountain, -we had apparently met the rising sun. The scene was -one long to be remembered for its brilliancy, although not -describable.</p> - -<p>Mr. Addison, in the <i>Spectator</i>, says: “Our imagination -loves to be filled with an object, or to grasp at anything -that is too big for its capacity. We are flung into a pleasing -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">236</span> -astonishment at such unbounded views, and feel a delightful -stillness and amazement in the soul.” Mr. Addison has here -expressed the feelings entertained by some of us, as the view -met our gaze while looking out to the east, the south and -the west. Although not sufficiently elevated to command -a general outlook, the higher ridges framing some of the -scenery to the north and eastward of us, the westerly view -was boundless. The transparency of the atmosphere was -here extreme, and as the sun illumined the snow-clad and -ice-burnished peaks, the scene aroused the enthusiasm of the -command to a shout of glad surprise.</p> - -<p>The recollections of the discomforts of the night were -banished by the glory of the morning as here displayed. -Even the beauties of the Yosemite, of which I was so ardent -an admirer, were for the moment eclipsed by this gorgeously -grand and changing scene. The aurora that had preceded -the rising sun was as many-hued, and if possible more glorious, -than the most vivid borealis of the northern climes. -But when the sun appeared, seemingly like a sudden flash, -amidst the distant peaks, the climax was complete. My -opportunities for examining the mountain scenery of the -Sierra Nevada above the immediate vicinity of the Yosemite, -were such as to only enable me to give a somewhat general -description, but the views that I had during our explorations -afforded me glimpses of the possibilities of sublime -mountain scenery, such as I had never before comprehended, -although familiar with the views afforded from some of the -peaks of Mexico and of the Rocky Mountains. I doubt -even if the Yellow Stone, supreme in some of its attractions, -affords such varied and majestic beauty.</p> - -<p>Looking back to the lovely little lake, where we had been -encamped during the night, and watching Ten-ie-ya as he -ascended to our group, I suggested to the Captain that we -name the lake after the old chief, and call it “Lake Ten-ie-ya.” -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">237</span> -The Captain had fully recovered from his annoyance -at the scene in camp, and readily consented to the -name, but added that I had evidently mistaken my vocation.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="i_236" src="images/i_236.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">LAKE TEN-IE-YA, ONE OF THE YOSEMITE FOUNTAINS.</p></div> - -<p>Noticing my look of surprise, he jokingly said that if I -had only studied divinity instead of medicine, I could have -then fully gratified my passion for christening. This, of -course, brought out a general guffaw, and thinking me annoyed, -he said: “Gentlemen, I think the name an appropriate -one, and shall use it in my report of the expedition. -Beside this, it is rendering a kind of justice to perpetuate -the name of the old chief.”</p> - -<p>When Ten-ie-ya reached the summit, he left his people -and approached where the Captain and a few of us were -halting. Although he had been snubbed by the Captain -that morning, he now seemed to have forgotten it, and his -rather rugged countenance glowed with healthful exercise -in the sunlight. I had handled him rather roughly the day -before, but as he now evidently wished to be friendly, I -called him up to us, and told him that we had given his -name to the lake and river. At first, he seemed unable to -comprehend our purpose, and pointing to the group of -Glistening peaks, near the head of the lake, said: “It already -has a name; we call it Py-we-ack.” Upon my telling -him that we had named it Ten-ie-ya, because it was upon -the shores of the lake that we had found his people, who -would never return to it to live, his countenance fell and he -at once left our group and joined his own family circle. -His countenance as he left us indicated that he thought the -naming of the lake no equivalent for the loss of his territory.</p> - -<p>I never at any time had real personal dislike for the old -sachem. He had always been an object of study, and I -sometimes found in him profitable entertainment. As he -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">238</span> -moved off to hide his sorrow, I pitied him. As we resumed -our march over the rough and billowy trail, I was more -fully impressed with the appropriateness of the name for the -beautiful lake. Here, probably, his people had built their -last wigwams in their mountain home. From this lake we -were leading the last remnant of his once dreaded tribe, to -a territory from which it was designed they should never -return as a people. My sympathies, confirmed in my own -mind, a justness in thus perpetuating the name of Ten-ie-ya. -The Indian name for this lake, branch and cañon, -“Py-we-ack” is, although a most appropriate one, now -displaced by that of the old chief Ten-ie-ya. Of the signification -of the name Ten-ie-ya, I am uncertain; but as pronounced -by himself, I have no doubt of its being pure -Indian.</p> - -<p>The whole mountain region of the water-sheds of the -Merced and Tuolumne rivers afford the most delightful -views to be seen anywhere of mountains, cliffs, cascades -and waterfalls, grand forests and mountain meadows, and -the Soda Springs are yet destined to become a favorite -summer resort. Mr. Muir has well said that the “upper -Tuolumne valley is the widest, smoothest, most serenely -spacious, and in every way the most delightful summer -pleasure park in all the High Sierras.”</p> - -<p>Now that it has become a part of the new National -Park surrounding the old grant (see new map), and good -trails reach it, wagon roads will soon be extended into the -very “heart of the Sierras.”</p> - -<p>We reached our camp in the valley without accident. -Captain Boling at once gave orders to make preparations -for our return to the Fresno. The next day we broke camp -and moved down to the lower end of the valley near where -we camped on the first night of our discovery, near the little -meadow at the foot of the Mariposa Trail. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">239</span></p> - -<p>At sunrise the next morning, or rather as the reflections -on the cliffs indicated sunrise, we commenced our ascent -of the steep trail. As I reached the height of land where -the moving column would soon perhaps forever shut out -from view the immortal “Rock Chief,” my old sympathies -returned, and leaving the command to pursue its -heedless way, I climbed to my old perch where Savage had -warned me of danger. As I looked back upon El Capitan, -his bald forehead was cooling in the breeze that swept by -me from the “<i>Summer land</i>” <i>below</i>, and his cheerful -countenance reflected back the glory of the rising sun. -Feeling my own inferiority while acknowledging the majesty -of the scene, I looked back from Mt. Beatitude, and -quoting from Byron, exclaimed:</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i6">Yosemite!<br /></span> -<span class="i0">“Thy vale(s) of evergreen, thy hills of snow<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Proclaim thee Nature’s varied favorite now.”<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p>We reached the Fresno without the loss of a captive, and -as we turned them over to the agent, we were formally commended -for the success of the expedition. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">240</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV.</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>The Flora of the Region of the Yosemite—General Description of the -Valley and its Principal Points of Interest, with their Heights.</p></blockquote> - -<p>A marked and peculiar feature observed in the landscape -of the Merced River slopes, while going to the Yosemite, -especially on the Coultersville route, is the dense growth of -the chamiso and the manzanita. These shrubs are found -most abundant below the altitude of the growth of sugar-pine, -upon dry, slaty ground; though a larger variety of -manzanita, distinguishable by its larger blossoms and fruit, -and its love of shade and moist clay-slate soil, may be found -growing even among the sugar-pine. A peculiarity of this -shrub is, that like the Madroña and some trees in Australia, -it sheds a portion of its outer bark annually, leaving its -branches beautifully bright and clean. The manzanita, when -in full bloom, is one of the most beautiful of shrubs; its -delicately tinted and fragrant blossoms filling the air with -the perfume of an apple-orchard, while its rich evergreen -leaves are only shed as others put forth. The name, manzanita, -is Spanish, signifying little apple—the fruit in flavor, -but more especially in smell, resembling the apple.</p> - -<p>These chamiso and manzanita thickets are almost impenetrable -to large animals, except the California lion and grizzly -bear. At certain seasons of the year, during their trips -to and from the High Sierras, when the berries are ripe, -these coverts are the resort of such visitors. The grizzly -comes to indulge his fondness for the little apples, and the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">241</span> -lion (how hath the mighty fallen!) to feed upon the wood-rats, -mice and rabbits that he surprises in these furzy thickets. -Occasionally a deer, as he comes along unconscious -of danger, but too near the feline lair, is pounced upon by -the lion, or perhaps a stray horse or mule may fall a victim; -but in no case dare the lion attack his savage associate -the bear, or any of his progeny.</p> - -<p>In going to the Yosemite by way of the Mariposa route, -after reaching the summit of the gap or pass in the “Black -Ridge” or Chow-chilla mountain, over which the Mariposa -route passes, to the South Fork of the Merced River, the -yellow pine, the sugar pine, the Douglass fir and two other -species of fir, are seen in all their glory. Here, too, is to -be found the variety of white or yellow cedar (<i>Libo cedrus -decurrens</i>), growing to a size not seen at a less altitude, -unless perhaps on the north side of some spur from these -mountains. If the ridge be followed to the right as far as -the Big Trees, instead of descending the road to the South -Fork, some very large pine, cedar and fir trees will be seen, -in addition to the great attraction, the Sequoia.</p> - -<p>At the time I first passed over this route there was but -a dim Indian trail; now, a very good stage or wagon-road -occupies it. As the descent to the South Fork is commenced, -dogwood will be observed growing at the head of -a little mountain brook that has its source in the pass, together -with willows and other small growths of trees and -shrubs. The “bush-honeysuckle,” when in bloom, is here -especially beautiful; and several fragrant-blossomed shrubs -will attract attention—the kalmia, especially. The forest -on this route is equaled by few in California, and it extends -to the Yosemite almost uninterrupted, except by the river -and a few mountain meadows. The Coultersville route also -affords like views of uninterrupted forest, even to the verge -of the valley, but confined as the trail was when it was first -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">242</span> -made to the narrow divide, one could not so well appreciate -the beauty of the trees while looking down upon their tops -as he would while riding among them. A few sequoias can -be seen on this route, near Hazel Green and near Crane -Flat.</p> - -<p>Mr. Greeley says: “The Sierra Nevadas lack the glorious -glaciers, the frequent rains, the rich verdure, the abundant -cataracts of the Alps, but they far surpass them; they surpass -any other mountains I ever saw, in wealth and grace -of trees. Look down from almost any of their peaks, and -your range of vision is filled, bounded, satisfied, by what -might be termed a tempest-tossed sea of evergreens, filling -every upland valley, covering every hillside, crowning every -peak but the highest with their unfading luxuriance.</p> - -<p>“That I saw, during this day’s travel, many hundreds of -pines eight feet in diameter, with cedars at least six feet, I -am confident; and there were miles of such and smaller -trees of like genus, standing as thick as they could grow. -Steep mountain sides, allowing these giants, to grow rank -above rank, without obstructing each other’s sunshine, seem -peculiarly favorable to the production of these serviceable -giants. But the summit meadows are peculiar in their heavy -fringe of balsam fir of all sizes, from those barely one foot -high to those hardly less than two hundred; their branches -surrounding them in collars, their extremities gracefully -bent down by weight of winter snows, making them here, I -am confident, the most beautiful trees on earth. The dry -promontories which separate these meadows are also covered -with a species of spruce, which is only less graceful -than the firs aforesaid. I never before enjoyed such a tree-feast -as on this wearying, difficult ride.”</p> - -<p>Had Mr. Greeley taken more time, it would not have been -so wearying to himself or mule. He rode sixty miles, on -one mule the day he went to the Yosemite, but his observations -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">243</span> -of what he saw are none the less just and valuable, -though but few of the pine trees will measure eight feet in -diameter. It is true, probably, that few forests in the United -States are so dense and beautiful in variety as those seen -on the old Mariposa route to the Yosemite by way of the -meadows of the Pohono Summit. About these meadows -the firs especially attract attention, from the uniform or geometrical -regularity their branches assume. No landscape -gardener could produce such effects as are here freely presented -by the Great Architect of the universe for the admiration -of his wayward children. Here in this region will -also be found the California tamarack pine, and a variety -of pine somewhat resembling the Norway pine, called Pinus -Jeffreyi. There is still another pine, to be found only on -the highest ridges and mountains, that may be said to mark -the limit of arbol vegetation; this dwarf is known as <i>pinus -albicaulis</i>, and could it but adapt itself to a lower altitude, -and retain its dense and tangled appearance, it would make -good hedge-rows.</p> - -<p>Professor Whitney speaks of still another one of the pine -family, growing about the head of King’s and Kern Rivers, -which he calls <i>pinus aristata</i>, and says it only grows on -those highest peaks of the Sierras, although it is also found -in the Rocky Mountains. Of the more noticeable undergrowth -of these mountain forests and their borders, besides -grasses, sedges, ferns, mosses, lichens, and various plants -that require a better knowledge of botany than I possess to -describe properly, may be mentioned the California lilac -and dogwood, the latter of which is frequently seen growing -along the mountain streams, and in the Yosemite. It grows -in conjunction with alder, willow, poplar, or balm of Gilead, -and a species of buckthorn. In isolated patches the Indian -arrow-wood is found. This wood is almost without pith, -and warps but little in drying. For these qualities and the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">244</span> -uniformity of its growth, it was especially esteemed for arrow-shafts; -although sprouts from other shrubs and trees -were also used.</p> - -<p>It will have been observed, while going to the Yosemite, -that the chimaso, white-oak and digger-pine are upon the -southern slopes, while the thickets of mountain-ash, shrub -or Oregon maple, and shrub live-oak, chinquepin and trailing -blue and white ceanothus and snow plant are found upon -the north side of the ridges, except when found at a greater -altitude than is usual for their growth. On descending into -the Yosemite, the visitor will at once notice and welcome -the variety of foliage.</p> - -<p>Upon the highest lands grow pine, fir, cedar, spruce, oak -and shrubs. In the meadows and upon open ground, according -to the richness of the soil and moisture, will be -seen flowers and flowering shrubs of great brilliancy and -variety.</p> - -<p>The whole valley had the appearance of park-like grounds, -with trees, shrubbery, flowers and lawns. The larger trees, -pines, firs, etc., are of smaller growth than are usually found -on the mountain slopes and tables. Still, some are of fair -dimensions, rising probably to the height of one hundred -and fifty feet or more. One large pine, growing in an alcove -upon the wall of Tote-ack-ah-noo-la,—apparently without -soil—is quite remarkable. The balm of gilead, alder, dogwood, -willow and buck-thorn, lend an agreeable variety to -the scenery along the river. Their familiar appearance -seem, like old friends, to welcome the eastern visitor to this -strange and remarkable locality. The black-oak is quite -abundant in the valley and upon the slopes below. It was -the source of supply of acorns used by the Yosemites as -food, and as an article of traffic with their less favored -neighbors east of the Sierras.</p> - -<p>Along the river banks and bordering the meadows are -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">245</span> -found the wild rose, and where the soil is rich, dry and mellow, -the wild sunflower grows luxuriantly. Of wild fruits, -the red raspberry and strawberry are the only ones worthy -of mention, and these are only found in limited quantities. -A thornless red raspberry grows upon the mountains, but its -blossoms are apt to be nipped by frosts and the plant is not -a prolific bearer.</p> - -<p>The meadows of the valley are generally moist, and in the -springtime boggy. Later in the season they become firmer, -and some parts of them where not in possession of sedges, -afford an abundant growth of “wild Timothy;” blue joint, -Canada red-top and clover. In addition to these nutritious -meadow-grasses, there is growing on the coarse granite, -sandy land, a hard, tough wire bunch grass unfit for grazing -except when quite young. This grass is highly prized -by the Indians for making baskets and small mats. Its -black seeds were pulverized and used as food, by being converted -into mush, or sometimes it was mixed with acorn -meal and was then made into a kind of gruel. The common -“brake” and many beautiful species of rock ferns and -mosses are quite abundant in the shady parts of the valley, -and in the cañons, and more especially are they found growing -within the influence of the cool, moist air near the falls. -Growing in the warm sunlight below El Capitan, may be -seen plants common among the foot hills and slaty mountains. -Of these plants, the manzanita, the bahia confertiflora -and the California poppy are the most conspicuous.</p> - -<p>The climatic and geologic or local influences upon vegetation -in this part of California, is so remarkable as to continually -claim the notice of the tourist, and induce the -study of the botanist. So peculiar are the influences of elevation, -moisture, temperature and soil, that if these be -stated, the flora may be determined with almost unerring -certainty, and <i>vice versa</i>, if the flora be designated, the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_246">246</span> -rock’s exposure and mineral character of the soil will be at -once inferred. The extreme summer temperature of the -valley rises but little over 80° Fahrenheit, during the day, -while the nights are always cold enough to make sleeping -comfortable under a pair of blankets.</p> - -<p>Thus far in narrating the incidents connected with the -discovery of the Yosemite, I have not been particularly definite -in my descriptions of it. Unconsciously I have allowed -myself to assume the position, that this remarkable locality -was familiarly known to every one.</p> - -<p>From the discovery of the valley to the present day, the -wonders of this region of sublimity, have been a source of -inspiration to visitors, but none have been able to describe -it to the satisfaction of those who followed after them. The -efforts that are still made to do so, are conclusive evidences -that to the minds of visitors, their predecessors had failed -to satisfactorily describe it to their comprehensions; and so -it will probably continue, as long as time shall last, for -where genius even, would be incompetent, egotism may -still tread <i>unharmed</i>.</p> - -<p>Realizing this, and feeling my own utter inability to convey -to another mind any just conception of the impressions -received upon first beholding the valley, I yet feel that a -few details and figures should be given with this volume. -Prof. J. D. Whitney in his “Yosemite Guide Book” says, -in speaking of the history of the discovery and settlement of -the Yosemite Valley: “The visit of the soldiers under Captain -Boling led to no immediate results in this direction. -Some stories told by them on their return, found their way -into the newspapers; but it was not until four years later -that so far as can be ascertained, any persons visited the -valley for the purpose of examining its wonders, or as regular -pleasure travelers. It is, indeed, surprising that so remarkable -a locality should not sooner have become known; -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">247</span> -one would suppose that accounts of its cliffs and waterfalls -would have spread at once all over the country. Probably -they did circulate about California, and were not believed -but set down as “travelers’ stories.” Yet these first visitors -seem to have been very moderate in their statements, for -they spoke of the Yosemite Fall as being “more than a -thousand feet high,” thus cutting it down to less than half -its real altitude.”</p> - -<p>At the time of our discovery, and after the subsequent -lengthy visit under Captain Boling, our descriptions of it -were received with doubt by the newspaper world, and with -comparative indifference by the excited and overwrought -public of the golden era. The press usually more than -keeps pace with public opinion. Although height and depth -were invariably under-estimated by us, our statements were -considered “too steep” even for the sensational correspondents, -and were by them pronounced exaggerations. These -autocrats of public opinion took the liberty to dwarf our -estimates to dimensions more readily swallowed by their -patrons.</p> - -<p>I have made many visits to the Yosemite since “our” -long sojourn in it in 1851, and have since that time furnished -many items for the press descriptive of that vicinity. My -recollections of some of these will be given in another chapter. -Although many years have rolled off the calendar of -time since the occurrences related in these chapters, no material -change has affected that locality. Human agency can -not alter the general appearance of these stupendous cliffs -and waterfalls.</p> - -<p>The picturesque wildness of the valley has since our first -visits been to a certain degree toned down by the <i>improvements</i> -of civilization. The regions among the foot-hills and -mountains that serve as approaches to the valley, where we -hunted for savages to <i>make peace with our National Government</i>, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">248</span> -now boasts of its ranchos and other improvements. -The obscure trails which we followed in our explorations, -and on which we first entered, have long since been abandoned, -or merged into roads or other trails used by the proprietors -of the territory in the vicinity. The white man’s -civilized improvements have superseded them. Instead of -the stormy bivouacs of our first visits, or the canvas of our -longer stay, the visitor now has the accommodations of first-class -hotels with modern improvements. The march of civilization -has laid low many of the lofty pines and shady -oak trees that once softened the rough grandeur and wildness -of the scenery. Stumps, bridges and ladders now mark -the progress of improvements. These, however, only affect -the ornamental appendages of the scenery—the perishable -portion of it alone. The massive granite walls are invulnerable -to modern ingenuity of adornment. The trail over -which we approached the valley on our first visit was below -the more modern trails, and its general course has now been -appropriated by the stage road over which the tourist visits -the Yosemite. The rocky slabs and stretches down which -we then slid and scrambled, have since been graded and improved, -so that the descent is made without difficulty.</p> - -<p>The “Mariposa Trail” first approached the verge of the -cliffs forming the south side of the valley, near what is -known as “Mount Beatitude,” or, as the first full view above -has been designated, “Inspiration Point”; which is about -3,000 feet above the level of the valley. In a direct line -from the commencement of the first descent, to where the -trail reaches the valley, the distance is probably less than a -mile, but by the trail, it is nearly four miles in a circuitous -zigzag westerly course. The vertical descent of the trail -in that distance is 2,973 feet.<a id="FNanchor_19" href="#Footnote_19" class="fnanchor">19</a></p> - -<p>I have adopted the statistics of measurements given by -Prof. Whitney in his “Yosemite Guide Book” as my standard, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_249">249</span> -so as to be modernly correct. These statistics were -from the State Geological Survey, and are scientifically reliable. -From a point on this descending trail, my most impressive -recollections of a general view were first obtained. -My first sight of the Yosemite was suddenly and unexpectedly -unfolded from its junction with the old Indian trail; -the view was made complete by ascending to a granite -table. The first object and the principal point of attraction -to my astonished gaze was “El Capitan,” although its -immensity was far from comprehended, until I became -familiar with the proportions of other prominent features -of the valley. After passing it close to its base, on the -next day, I made up my mind that it could not be less than -1,500 or 2,000 feet above the level of the valley.</p> - -<p>Prof. Whitney in speaking of this object of grandeur and -massiveness, says: “El Capitan is an immense block of -granite, projecting squarely out into the valley, and presenting -an almost vertical sharp edge, 3,300 feet in elevation. -The sides or walls of the mass are bare, smooth, and entirely -destitute of vegetation. It is almost impossible for the -observer to comprehend the enormous dimensions of this -rock, which in clear weather can be distinctly seen from the -San Joaquin plains at a distance of fifty or sixty miles. -Nothing, however, so helps to a realization of the magnitude -of these masses about the Yosemite as climbing around and -among them. Let the visitor begin to ascend the pile of -<i>debris</i> which lies at the base of El Capitan, and he will -soon find his ideas enlarged on the point in question. And -yet these <i>debris</i> piles along the cliffs, and especially under -El Capitan, are of insignificant size compared with the -dimensions of the solid wall itself. They are hardly noticeable -in taking a general view of the valley. El Capitan -imposes on us by its stupendous bulk, which seems as if -hewed from the mountain on purpose to stand as the type -of eternal massiveness. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_250">250</span></p> - -<p>“It is doubtful if any where in the world there is presented -so squarely cut, so lofty and so imposing a face of -rock.” The foregoing is the most concise and best description -of El Capitan I have ever seen, and yet, it cannot impart -the ecstacy of reverence for the sublime one feels in its -presence.</p> - -<p>Another peculiarity of El Capitan, is one that belongs to -headlands that are designated points-no-point; that is the -apparent difficulty of passing them. While passing at a -distance, the convexity of the wall seems to remain immediately -opposite the observer.</p> - -<p>From the Mariposa trail as it descends, can be seen most -of the prominent cliffs which form its massive side walls. -This trail reaches the bottom of the valley near its lower -extremity. Below this trail, it narrows to a rocky cañon, -almost impassable except for the Merced river, which leaves -the valley through this gorge. I shall again refer to this -cañon in another chapter.</p> - -<p>The valley is about six miles long and from half a mile -to over a mile in width at the head of the valley proper. -It is irregular in shape, but its general direction is nearly -east towards its upper end. Its outlines will be better understood -from a view of the accompanying map, which has -been mostly copied from that of the State Geological Survey—Prof. -Whitney’s. The three cañons which open into -the valley at its upper end, are so intimately connected with -it that a general description will include them all, particularly -the parts of them in close proximity to the valley. -They will be specially described when reached.</p> - -<p>The sides of the valley are walls of a grayish-white granite, -which becomes a dazzling white in a clear sunlight. This -intensity of reflection is, however, toned to a great extent -by the varying haze which permeates the upper atmosphere -of the valley for most of the time. This haze has sometimes -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">251</span> -the appearance of a light cloud of blue smoke, with -its borders fringed with a silvery vapor. At other times—during -August and September—the tint is enriched, and at -sunrise and sunset for the valley the golden light seems to -permeate the haze, and lend its charm to the gossamer -film that shields the sight from the glare of the reflecting -granite.</p> - -<p>The walls on each side are in many places perpendicular, -and are, from the level of the valley to the top of the cliffs, -from 2,660 to 4,737 feet in height, or, as they are generally -described, from half a mile to a mile in height. Prof. -Whitney, however, says: “The valley is sunk almost a mile -in perpendicular depth below the general level of the adjacent -region.” This is undoubtedly correct, for in his description, -he says: “The Yosemite Valley is nearly in the center -of the State, north and south, and just midway between the -east and west bases of the Sierras; here a little over seventy -miles wide.”</p> - -<p>Prof. Whitney’s estimate of the depth of the valley must -be literally correct, for the general slope of that region is -toward the valley, except from the west, its lower end.</p> - -<p>At the base of these cliffs is a comparatively small amount -of <i>debris</i>, consisting of broken rocks which have fallen from -above. A kind of soil has accumulated on this talus, which -is generally covered with vegetation. Trees of considerable -size—oaks, pines, firs, cedars, maples, bay and dwarf oak, -and lesser shrubs, are frequent. Although this <i>debris</i> is -scarcely observed in a general view, its height above the bottom -of the valley is in many places from three hundred to -five hundred feet next to the cliff, from which it slopes some -distance into the valley. In a few places the bases of the -cliffs appear as if exposed nearly to the level of the valley. -The valley proper is generally level through its entire length. -The actual slope given is “only thirty-five feet between the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">252</span> -junctions of the Ten-ie-ya Fork and the Bridal Veil Creek -with the main river, four miles and a half in a straight -line.” The elevation of the valley above the sea level is -3,950 feet. The Merced River, which is about seventy feet -wide in an ordinary stage of water, courses down through -the middle cañon, meanders through the valley, being restrained -or confined to near the centre of it by the sloping -talus at its sides—the sloping <i>debris</i> piles occupying nearly -one-half of the bottom of the valley.</p> - -<p>Although the soil is principally of a sandy character, the -marshy land subject to overflow, and some of the dry bottom -land, have a deep, rich alluvial soil.</p> - -<p>The two beautiful little meadows in the lower section of -the valley, afford forage for animals. On the slope above, -not far from the Pohono Falls, the Yosemities built their -huts, as if unconscious of “The Spirit of the Evil Wind,” -near their habitations.</p> - -<p>Not far from the foot of the descent of the Mariposa trail, the -original trail branched; one trail continuing on up the south -side of the valley, the other crossing the Merced toward El -Capitan. Another original trail came up on the north side -from the gorge below. A small foot-trail entered this from -the northern summit of the Coultersville trail, but it was -purposely left so obscure by the Indians, as to lead to the -belief that it was impassable for horses. This trail was -modernized, and is now known as the “Coultersville Trail.” -On angle of El Capitan is “Ribbon Falls.” The cliff over -which the water pours is nearly 3,000 feet high, but the -perpendicular height of the fall is but little over a thousand -feet. This fall is “a beauty” while it lasts, but it is as -ephemeral as a spring shower, and this fact must have been -known to the sponsors at the baptism.</p> - -<p>Just above El Capitan are the Three Brothers, the highest -peak of these rocks is 3,830 feet. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">253</span></p> - -<p>Next above these is the Yosemite Fall. The verge of the -cliff over which this fall begins its descent is 2,600 feet -above the level of the valley. Prof. Whitney in describing -this fall, says: “The fall is not in one perpendicular sheet. -There is first a vertical descent of 1,500 feet, when the water -strikes on what seems to be a projecting ledge; but which, -in reality, is a shelf or recess, almost a third of a mile back -from the front of the lower portion of the cliff. From here -the water finds its way, in a series of cascades, down a descent -equal to 626 feet perpendicular, and then gives one -final plunge of about 400 feet on to a low <i>talus</i> of rocks at -the base of the precipice.” He also “estimates the size of -the stream at the summit of the fall, at a medium stage of -water, to be twenty feet in width and two feet in average -depth.” The upper portion of the full spread of its base is -estimated to be a width of from one hundred to three hundred -feet at high water. The wind gives this fall a vibratory -motion; sometimes equal to the width of the column -of water itself at the base of the perpendicular descent.</p> - -<p>The ravine called Indian Cañon is less than a mile above -the Yosemite Fall; between the two, is the rocky peak -called the “Lost Arrow,” which, although not perpendicular, -runs up boldly to a height of 3,030 feet above the level of the -Merced.</p> - -<p>The Indian name for the ravine called Indian Cañon was -Lehamite, and the cliff extending into the valley from the -East side of the Cañon is known as the “Arrow-wood Rocks.” -This grand wall extends almost at a right angle towards the -East, and continues up the Ten-ie-ya Cañon, forming the -base of the North dome (To-co-ya) which rises to an elevation -of 3,568 feet above the valley.</p> - -<p>In the cliff which forms the base of this dome-shaped -mass of rocks, are the “Royal Arches,” an immense arched -cavity evidently formed by portions of the cliff becoming -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">254</span> -detached from some cause, and falling out in sections to the -depth of seventy-five or one hundred feet from the face of -the cliff. The top of the arch appears to be 1,200 feet or -more above the valley. The extreme width of the cavity is -about the same, or perhaps a little more than the height. -Adjoining the “Royal Arches” on the East, is what is -called the “Washington Column.” This projecting rounded -mass of rock, may be said to mark the boundary of the valley -proper and the Ten-ie-ya Cañon, which here opens into -the valley from a Northeasterly direction.</p> - -<p>On the opposite side of Ten-ie-ya Cañon is the Half Dome -(Tis-sa-ack) the loftiest peak of the granite cliffs that form a -part of the walls of the Yosemite Valley. Its height above -the valley is 4,737 feet. On the side next to Ten-ie-ya -Cañon this cliff is perpendicular for more than 1,500 feet -from its summit, and then, the solid granite slopes at about -an angle of 60 degrees to its base. The top of this mass -of rock has the appearance of having been at one time a -dome-shaped peak, now however, but half remains, that portion -split off has by some agency, been carried away. At -its Northerly base is Mirror Lake, and farther up the Cañon -is Mt. Watkins, Cloud’s Rest, a cascade, and Lake Ten-ie-ya.</p> - -<p>This brief outline of description includes the principal -points of interest on the north side of the valley. From -the lower part of the valley, the first prominent object -reached on the south side, is the Bridal Veil Fall. The -water of the “Po-ho-no” here falls over a cliff from a perpendicular -height of 630 feet, onto a sloping pile of <i>debris</i>, -about 300 feet above the level of the Merced, in reaching -which it rushes down the slope among the rocks in cascades -and branching outlets. The total height of the cliff over -which the water falls is about 900 feet. The trees on the -slope below conceal the lower part of the fall, so that at a -distance it appears as if reaching to the bottom of the valley. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">255</span> -Just above the Bridal Veil are what have been termed -the “Three Graces,” and not far above these, are the peculiar -appearing pinnacles of rocks to which the names of -Cathedral Rock and Cathedral Spires have been given. -Cathedral Rock is 2,660 feet high. The spires just beyond -are about the same height from the level of the valley. -They are pointed columns of granite 500 feet high, attached -at their base with the cliff forming the side of the valley. -The next prominent object on the south side is Sentinel -Rock, 3,043 feet high. This pinnacle of granite is on the -extremity of a point of rocks extending into the valley. -For a thousand feet or more, it has the form of an obelisk, -below which it forms a part of the projecting rocks. The -next object is the massive point projecting into the valley, -and which here forms an angle towards the south; it is -called Glacier Point. This has an elevation of 3,200 feet -above the valley. From this point some of the finest views -of the vicinity can be seen. Behind Glacier Point and Sentinel -Rock, appearing as if these cliffs formed a part of its -base, is the South Dome, known also as the Sentinel Dome. -The name of “South Dome” was originally given to this -dome-shaped mass of granite by our battalion. It is 4,150 -feet above the valley. The South or Glacier Cañon is just -above Glacier Point. At the head of this rocky impassable -cañon, is the beautiful fall I have named “Glacier Fall.” -This fall is about 600 feet high. The middle cañon, Yanopah, -opens from the east. The Merced river comes down -this cañon into the valley.</p> - -<p>In a distance of two miles, a descent from over 2,000 feet -of perpendicular height is made. This includes the Vernal -and Nevada Falls. The Vernal is about 350 feet high; the -Nevada something over 600 feet. The rapids between the -falls have a descent of about 300 feet. The Vernal and Nevada -are about one mile apart. On the north side of the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_256">256</span> -middle cañon is the Cap of Liberty, rising to a height of -2,000 feet above its base near the foot of the Nevada Fall. -This stupendous mass of rock stands nearly perpendicular -on all sides but one. Farther up, on the south side of Ten-ie-ya -Cañon, is Clouds Rest, which is 6,000 feet above the -bottom of the Yosemite. Between Glacier Cañon and -Yanopah is the Noble Starr King. The immense cliff forming -the extreme westerly point of the divide between Ten-ie-ya -Cañon and the Yanopah branch, has had various names -affixed to it, none of which seems to have been satisfactory. -It was between the lower face of this wall and Glacier Point -that Capt. Boling laid off and had cleared for use his race-course; -and hence, in speaking of the locality, it was sometimes -designated as Boling’s Point, as the starting place for -the race. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">257</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI.</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>A Trip to Los Angelos—Interview with Col. McKee—A Night at Col. -Fremont’s Camp—Management of Cattle by the Colonel’s Herdsmen—Back -to Los Angelos—Specimen Bricks of the Angel City—An Addition -to our Party—Mules Versus Bears—Don Vincente—A Silver -Mine—Mosquitos—A Dry Bog—Return to Fresno—Muster out of Battalion—A -Proposition.</p></blockquote> - -<p>On arriving at head-quarters on the Fresno, with the -remnant of the once numerous and defiant band of Yosemite -Indians, whose thieving propensities and murderous -attacks had made them a dread to miners and “ranche” -men; we found a general feeling of confidence that the “Indian -war” was ended. The commissioners, with a special -escort of U. S. soldiers which had accompanied them from -San Francisco, had gone to King’s River to treat with the -bands collected for that purpose; and were then to visit the -region farther South on their way to Los Angelos, where -they expected to meet and co-operate with Gen. Bean, who -was stationed with his volunteer force at the Cahon Pass. -Major Savage had learned from his Indians, who once more -seemed to idolize him, that all the bands in the vicinity of -the Kings and Kah-we-ah rivers, had “made peace,” and -that the commissioners had started for Te-jon Pass.</p> - -<p>Considering the Indian outbreak as completely suppressed, -the major at once reported the condition of affairs -to the governor, and recommended that the “Mariposa Battalion” -be mustered out and honorably discharged from -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">258</span> -further service. He sent Captain Boling to report in person -to the commissioners. I was detailed as one of the -Captain’s escort, and Mr. Winchester, a newspaper correspondent, -accompanied us. Captain Boling expected to overtake -the commissioners at Te-hon Pass.</p> - -<p>This trip was in no way objectionable to me, for I was -desirous to visit that part of the country with a view of -selecting a location, if I found my plans to be practicable. -Through the advice of Major Savage, I had in contemplation -a design to establish a trading post in the vicinity of -Te-hon Pass. In this project, I was assured of the Major’s -friendship and co-operation as soon as the battalion was -mustered out. He designed to extend his trading operations, -and thought that a post in the vicinity of the pass -would control the trade destined to spring up on both sides -of the mountains. I was provided with recommendations -to the commissioners, to use in case I desired a trader’s permit -on one of the reservations. The commissioners were -while <i>en route</i> prospecting for locations and selections of -public lands for the Indians. The object of these selections, -was to make the experiment of engaging them in agricultural -pursuits under the management of the general government. -I had but little confidence that the latter could be -made self-supporting wards of the nation; but I was willing -in political as in religious affairs, that each zealot should -believe that he had discovered a sovereign balm for the -wants of humanity. However, self-interest prompted me to -be observant of passing events.</p> - -<p>I was aware, even at that early day, that the California -Indians had become objects of speculation to the “rings” -that scented them as legitimate prey. The trip to the Te-jon -Pass was made without incident or accident to delay -our movements, but on our arrival it was found that the -Commissioners had been gone several days, and were probably -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_259">259</span> -then in Los Angelos. This we learned from an Indian -styled by his “<i>christian name</i>” Don Vincente. This chief -was a Mission Indian, and spoke some Spanish. His people, -although in appearance hardly equal to the mountain -tribes, provided themselves with fruit and vegetables of their -own raising.</p> - -<p>From “Senor Don Vincente” we obtained roasting ears -of corn, melons, etc., which were an agreeable surprise. -While on the trip we had found game in abundance, and, -surfeited with fresh meat, the vegetables seemed better than -any we had ever before eaten. Vincente’s system of irrigation -was very complete.</p> - -<p>Captain Boling was not anxious to follow the trail of the -Commissioners beyond this camp. I had already informed -him of my desire to see the Commissioners and make some -examination of that locality before our return. He therefore -decided to retrace his own steps, but to send me on as -a special messenger to the Commissioners.</p> - -<p>He instructed me to make all possible despatch to deliver -his report and messages, but on my return trip I had liberty -to make such delays as suited my convenience. He also -wished me to convey a verbal message from Major Savage -to Colonel Fremont, to the effect that the Indians congregated -at the Fresno were anxiously awaiting the arrival of -some of his cattle. Col. Fremont had already made a large -contract for supplying them with beef, and was supposed to -be in Los Angelos or vicinity, buying up animals for the -agencies. My arrangements for following the Commissioners -were hardly commenced, before Col. William T. Henderson, -a ranchman from near Quartzberg, rode up to our -camp. He was an acquaintance, and was on his way to Los -Angelos with a King’s River Indian guide. I at once saddled -my mule, and taking an extra animal furnished for the -occasion, joined Henderson, making the trip a more agreeable -and pleasant one than I had anticipated. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">260</span></p> - -<p>Col. Henderson afterwards became famous, at least -among his friends, as chief instrument under Captain -Harry Love, of causing the death of “Joaquin Muriata” -and “Three fingered Jack,” and in capturing two or three -of Muriata’s band of robbers. On entering the city of Los -Angelos, I found Col. McKee at his hotel. Neither Col. -Barbour nor Col. Fremont were in the city. Doctor Woozencroft -was in San Francisco. I was cordially received -and hospitably entertained by Col. McKee while I made -my report, and answered his questions. At his request, I -stated a few facts relating to the Yosemite Valley, and he -appeared an interested listener; but distinguishing a look -of incredulity, when I gave him my estimates of heights, I -made the interview as brief as possible. Ascertaining that -Col. Fremont was only a few miles from the city, I rode -out to his camp, delivered my message, and gave him a -general view of the situation in Mariposa county, where his -famous estate is situated. I staid over night with him and -was hospitably provided for.</p> - -<p>The Colonel’s whole bearing was that of an accomplished -man of the world, and I felt that I was in the presence of a -gentleman of education and refinement. During the morning -I watched his vaqueros or herdsman training the cattle -preparatory to starting north for their destination. This -breaking-in process was accomplished by driving them in -a circle over the plain near the camp, and was done to familiarize -them with each other, and with the commands of -the herdsmen, before attempting to drive them from their -native grazing grounds.</p> - -<p>On my return to the city I again called on Colonel McKee -to see if he had any return message to Major Savage. -On my first visit the subject of reservations was not presented. -Upon this occasion it was naturally brought up by -an allusion to the Colonel’s plan of “<i>christianizing the poor -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">261</span> -Indians</i>.” My doubt of the feasibility of this work was -better concealed than were his doubts of my heights of the -Yosemite, and with considerable fervor the good old gentle -man unfolded his plans for the christianizing of the Indians. -His estimate of the number in Mariposa county was simply -fabulous, and when I quietly asked him if he supposed -there were really so many, he, with some choler, answered, -“Why, sir, these figures are official.”</p> - -<p>During this conversation, I was informed that the Fresno, -King’s River and Te-jon Pass selections would be recommended, -although it appeared that the latter was claimed -as an old and long disputed Spanish grant. On stating -that I had had some idea of locating in the vicinity of the Te-jon -Pass as soon as that selection was decided upon, I was -advised by Colonel McKee to be in no haste to do so, but -was assured of his good will in any application I might make -after their policy was established; for, added the Colonel, -“Major Savage has already spoken of you as an energetic -and efficient person, and one calculated to materially aid us -in future work with these Indians.”</p> - -<p>Let it suffice here to say, that I never made application -for a permit as a licensed trader on any Indian reservation; -and I am not yet aware that any of these reservations have -afforded the Indians means of self-support. I was somewhat -familiar with the management of the Fresno agency, -and do not hesitate to say that it was not wholly commendable. -I was not personally familiar with that of the Te-jon -Pass agricultural management. This was one of the most -delightful regions of California; and the region covered by -the Mexican or Spanish grant was, in my opinion, intrinsically -more valuable than the whole of the celebrated Mariposa -estate of Col. Fremont, which had “millions in it.” -After a vast amount of money had been expended on this -reservation by the general government, I believe it was confirmed -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">262</span> -as a Spanish or Mexican grant, and finally passed into -the possession of General Beal, who was for some years -Superintendent of Indian Affairs in California. I never -saw General Beal, and therefore was only able to judge of -him or his management through his official reports and letters -relating to the Indian Affairs of California. These will -receive some special notice further on.</p> - -<p>My recollections of the interviews with Colonel McKee, -are of a most agreeable character. The sincerity with which -he advised me with regard to my individual affairs, and the -correctness of his representations of the prospective condition -of the Tejon Pass, if it should prove a valid Mexican -grant, was serviceable to me, and subsequent events verified -his judgment. Colonel McKee was a high-minded christian -gentleman, but really unsuited to deal with the political -element then existing on the Pacific-coast. The other -two commissioners, Colonel Barbour and Dr. Woozencroft, -I never became acquainted with, though upon one occasion -I met Colonel Barbour at head-quarters, and received a very -favorable impression of his character. In leaving Colonel -McKee after my second interview, I could not at once relinquish -my design of ultimately establishing myself near the -Tejon. Having completed my business, I reported myself -to Henderson as ready, and found that he also had been able -to despatch his affairs, and had no business to detain him -longer. Together we took a stroll through the principal -street, and visited some popular resorts. However angelic -the unseen portion of this city—of then less than two thousand -inhabitants—may have been, it appeared to us as a city -of fallen angels with their attendant satellites. Although -our observations were made in a dull portion of the day, we -witnessed on the street one pugilistic encounter, two shooting -affrays, and a reckless disregard of life, and property -rights generally, never allowed in a civilized community. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">263</span> -We soon discovered that good arms and a firm demeanor -were the only passports to respectful consideration.</p> - -<p>The authorities seemed too indifferent or too timid to -maintain order, or punish the offenders against law. Satisfied -that the “City of Angels” could exhibit more unadulterated -wickedness than any other town in the State at that -time, we shook the dust from our feet, and in order to get -an early start the next morning, rode out to the vicinity of -Col. Fremont’s camp. Our party was increased by the addition -of two gentlemen, who joined us for protection and -guidance. The name of one of them has escaped my memory; -the other was Doctor Bigelow, of Detroit, Michigan, -a geologist, who at one time was engaged in a geological -survey of a portion of Lake Superior; We left our camp -before sunrise, Henderson and myself riding in advance; -our guests, Indian and pack-mule bringing up the rear. -This order of traveling was maintained as a matter of convenience, -for being well mounted, Henderson and myself -were able to secure deer, antelope and a supply of smaller -game, without hardly leaving the trail or delaying our progress.</p> - -<p>Among the foot-hills of the mountain slopes we saw several -black bears cross the trail ahead, but not being out of -meat, we did not urgently solicit their company. We did, -however, once have our appetite aroused for “bar meat,” -but failed to supply the material for the feast. Halting for -a rest at the foot of a ravine, and being very thirsty, we followed -the indications to water exhibited by our mules. -These were secured while we explored the brushy ravine for -the water-hole. As we reached the desired water, two fat -cubs came waddling out of the pool, and ran into a clump -of dwarf willow.</p> - -<p>Congratulating each other on the prospect of roast cub -for supper, we tried to get a shot with our revolvers, but a -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_264">264</span> -rousing demonstration from the parental bear, which suddenly -appeared, alarmed our cautiousness, and we retreated -hurriedly, but in good order, to the place where we had carelessly -left our rifles. Hastily mounting, we returned the -compliment by at once charging on the bear and her cubs, -which were now endeavoring to escape.</p> - -<p>As we approached near enough for the mules to see and -scent the game, they halted, and commenced <i>marking time</i>. -Neither spurs or the butts of our rifles could persuade them -to make a forward movement. Thinking I might secure a -cub that stood temporarily in sight, I raised my rifle, but in -so doing slackened the reins, when with the ease and celerity -of a well-drilled soldier, my mule came to an “<i>about -face</i>,” and instantly left that locality. Henderson’s mule -became unmanageable, and after a lusty “we-haw! we-haw!” -followed me, while the affrighted bear family scrambled -off in search of a place of security. Pulling up as -soon as we could control our frightened animals, Henderson -congratulated me on possessing one so active on a retreat, -while I complimented the intelligence of his own, which -would not voluntarily endanger his master.</p> - -<p>After a hearty laugh at our comic illustration of a bear -hunt, it was mutually agreed that a mule was not reliable -in a charge upon bruin.</p> - -<p>A mule may be the equal of a horse in intelligence, but -his inferiority of spirit and courage in times of danger prevents -his becoming a favorite, except as a beast for work or -mountain travel.</p> - -<p>On arriving at the rancheria of the chief Vincente, I induced -Henderson to stop and explore the country. The luscious -watermelons and abundant supplies of vegetables were -strong arguments in favor of a few days’ rest for our animals -and recreation for ourselves. In the meantime Doctor -Bigelow had told us of a traditional silver mine that he had -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_265">265</span> -been informed existed somewhere in the locality of the Te-jon. -I found the pompous old chief fond of displaying his -knowledge of agriculture, which was really considerable, -and I complimented him upon his success, as was deserved.</p> - -<p>After paying him for the things liberally supplied our -party, and which with a show of Spanish courtesy he intimated -he had given us because he was “a good Christian”—though -he frequently crossed himself while expressing his -fear of “witches” or demons—I opened up the subject of -the old silver mine. I designated it as some kind of a mine -that had once been worked by an Englishman. We were -told by “Don Vincente” that such a mine had been discovered -many years before, by white men, who, after working -it for awhile, had been driven off or killed; “but for -the love of God” he could not tell which. We expressed a -wish to visit the old mine, and asked permission of the chief. -He told us it was not in the territory claimed by him, and -he was thankful that it was not, as the location was haunted. -When asked if he would furnish us a guide, who should -be well paid for his service, he answered, “Go, and God go -with you, but none of my people shall go, for it would bring -upon us evil.” We were shown the mouth of the ravine, -after some persuasion, but no argument or inducement could -procure a guide to the mine.</p> - -<p>“Don Vincente,” like all the Mission Indians of California, -I found to be strongly imbued with the superstitions -of the <i>wild tribes</i>, and a firm believer in the power of human -departed spirits to harm the living. Many, like those -of the east, believed that the wizards or sorcerers could put -a spell upon a victim, that if not disenchanted would soon -carry him to his grave.</p> - -<p>Leaving our extra animals in the care of Vincente, we -took our course towards the mouth of the ravine pointed -out to us, southwest of the Tejon. After a tedious and difficult -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_266">266</span> -search, a discovery of some <i>float</i> mineral was made, -and following up these indications, we found some very rude -furnaces, and a long distance above discovered the mine, -which had evidently been abandoned for years. We -procured some of the best <i>specimens</i> of the ore, and being -unable to determine its value, forwarded some to assayers -in San Francisco. Doctor Bigelow pronounced the mineral -to be that of antimony, but said that it might possibly contain -some of the precious metals, but it was quite evident -that he placed but little commercial value upon the mine. -The reports finally received from the assayers were very unfavorable, -and our visions of untold wealth vanished with -the smoke of the assay.</p> - -<p>On our return from the exploration of the “<i>Silver Mine</i>,” -we carefully concealed our discovery from Vincente and his -people, and avoided exciting their curiosity. Our animals -were rested, and in an improved condition, for the grass -was rich and abundant. Don Vincente was as much delighted -with our presents of tobacco and trinkets, which we -had carried with us for such occasions, as any of the “<i>Gentile</i>” -nations would have been. We took our departure -from the hospitalities of the Mission Chief without having -had any occurrence to divert the mutually friendly feelings -that had been fostered in our intercourse. We had designed, -on starting from the rancheria of Don Vincente, to -leave the direct trail to Mariposa, and explore the lake region -of the Tulare valley. Unfortunately for the success -of this undertaking, we made our first camp too near the -marshy shore of Kern Lake. We had selected the camp -ground for the convenience of water and fresh grass for our -animals, but as night closed in, the mosquitoes swarmed -from the surrounding territory, making such vigorous -charges upon us and our animals, that we were forced to -retreat from their persistent attacks, and take refuge on the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_267">267</span> -high land away from the vicinity of the Tule or Bullrush -marshes. Having no desire to continue the acquaintance -of the inhabitants who had thronged to welcome our approach, -our ambition for making further exploration was so -much weakened, that we silently permitted our mules to -take their course towards the direct trail. Col. Henderson -declared that the mosquitoes on these lakes were larger, more -numerous, and in greater variety, than in the swamps of -Louisiana, and Doctor Bigelow said that hitherto he had -rather prided himself, as a Michigander, on the <i>earnest</i> character -of those of Michigan, but that in future, he should be -willing to accept as a standard of all the possibilities of mosquito -growth, those that had <i>reluctantly</i> parted with us at -Kern Lake. Keeping the rich alluvial low lands on our -left, we crossed a strip of alkali plain, through which our -animals floundered as if in an ash heap. This Henderson -designated as a “<i>dry bog</i>.” Deviating still farther to the -right to avoid this, an old trail was struck, either Indian or -animal, which led us into the main trail usually traveled -up and down the valley. At the crossing of one of the -numerous mountain streams, we found a good camping -place on a beautiful table overlooking this rich territory, -where we would be secure from the assaults of <i>enemies</i>.</p> - -<p>After a refreshing bath in the cool waters of the stream, -we slept the sleep of the blessed, and mosquitoes once more -became to us unknown objects of torture. The next morning -we found ourselves refreshed and buoyant.</p> - -<p>Our animals, like ourselves, seemed to feel in elevated -spirits, and as we vaulted into our saddles at an early hour, -they moved rapidly along in the cool and bracing air. As -we rode, drove after drove of antelope and elk were seen, -and one small band of mustangs approached from the west, -when, after vainly neighing to our mules, they turned and -galloped back toward their favorite resort, the west side of -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_268">268</span> -the valley. Sometimes, with a halting look of scrutiny, a -coyote would cross our trail, but their near vicinity was -always recognized by our vigilant mules with a snort and -pause in their gait, that was probably designed to intimate -to us that it might be another bear. We beguiled the time -in discussing the amazing fertility of the country we were -traversing, and the probability of its future occupancy. -At the present time, thriving cities and immense wheat -fields occupy localities where in 1851 game and wild mustangs -roamed almost undisturbed by the white man’s tread, -or the flash or gleam of his unerring rifle. There is still -room for the enterprising settler, and the upper end of the -San Joaquin Valley may yet be called the sportsman’s -paradise. The lakes and streams swarm with fish, and are -the resort of water-fowl, and deer, elk and antelope are still -plentiful in secluded localities.</p> - -<p>We reached the Fresno in safety without interrupting incidents, -and without further attempt at exploration. Colonel -Henderson, Doctor Bigelow, and his companion <i>du -voyage</i>, after a short halt passed on to Quartzberg, while I -stopped over to make my report to the Major. To my extreme -surprise, Major Savage questioned me as to the cause -of my tardiness, saying he had been expecting me for two -or three days past, and that the cattle were now within the -valley and would in a short time be at the reservation. After -sufficiently enjoying my astonishment at his knowledge -of my movements and those of Fremont’s herders, he informed -the that his old power and influence over the Indians -had been re-established, and that reports came to him -from the different chiefs of all important events transpiring -in their territory. He soon satisfied me that through a judicious -distribution of presents to the runners, and the esteem -in which he was held by the chiefs, he was able to -watch the proceedings of strangers, for every movement of -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_269">269</span> -our party had been reported to him in detail. I was cordially -received by the Major, as a guest in his new trading -house, which he had erected during our absence. We discussed -the probable future of the management of Indian -affairs in California, and the incidents of my trip to Los -Angelos. The Major informed me that the battalion had -been mustered out of service during my absence (on July -25th, 1851), but that my interests had been properly represented -and cared for, as far as he had been able to act without -my presence. But in order to receive compensation as -interpreter and for extra medical services, it was discovered -that separate accounts and vouchers would be required, -which he and Captain Boling would at any time certify. -The major then informed me that he had made his arrangements -to recommence his trading operations on as large a -scale as might be required. That he could make more as a -trader than as an employe of government, and at the same -time be free from their cares and anxieties. He advised me -to take a subordinate position until I should be able to decide -upon a better location. He said he could make my -position a profitable one if I desired to remain with him.</p> - -<p>The major gave me a general insight into his future -plans, and some of the sources of his expected profits. After -this conversation, I gave up all idea of establishing at the -Tejon or any where else as a government trader. Having -been so long absent from my private business, which I -had left under the management of a partner; I made this -a sufficient excuse for my departure the next morning and -for my inability to accept the major’s kindly offer. As I -was leaving, the major said: “I was in hopes to have secured -your services, and still think you may change your mind. -If you do, ride over at once and you will find a place open -for you.”</p> - -<p>This confidence and friendship I felt demanded some return, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">270</span> -and I frankly said; “Major Savage, you are surrounded -by combinations that I don’t like. Sharp men are endeavoring -to use you as a tool to work their gold mine. Beside this, -you have hangers-on here that are capable of cutting your -throat.” Contrary to my expectation the Major was not in -the least offended at my frankness; on the contrary, he -thanked me for my interest and said: “Doc, while you study -books, I study men. I am not often very much deceived, -and I perfectly understand the present situation, but let -those laugh who win. If I can make good my losses <i>by</i> the -Indians <i>out</i> of the Indians, I am going to do it. I was the -best friend the Indians had, and they would have destroyed -me. Now that they once more call me “Chief,” they shall -build me up. I will be just to them, as I have been merciful, -for after all, they are but poor ignorant beings, but -my losses must be made good.” Bidding the Major good -morning, I left him with many kindly feelings, and as I -rode on my solitary way to Mariposa, I thought of his many -noble qualities, his manly courage, his generous hospitality, -his unyielding devotion to friends, and his kindness to -immigrant strangers. These all passed in review before my -mind, and then, I reversed the picture to see if anything -was out of proportion; in the picture I had drawn of my -hero. There were very serious defects, but such as would -naturally result from a misdirected education, and a strong -will, but they were capable of becoming virtues. As to the -Major’s kindly offer, although I appreciated his feeling’s -towards me, I could not accept it.</p> - -<p>With many others, I had joined in the operations against -the Indians from conscientious motives and in good faith -to chastise them for the numerous murders and frequent -robberies they were committing. Our object was to compel -them to keep the peace, that we might be permitted to -live undisturbed by their depredations. We had sufficient -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">271</span> -general intelligence and knowledge of their character to -know that we were looked upon as trespassers on their territory, -but were unwilling to abandon our search for gold, -or submit to their frequent demands for an ever-increasing -tribute. Beside other property, I had lost four valuable -horses, which were taken to satisfy their appetites. Neither -Bonner’s nor Vanderbilt’s love for horses, was ever greater -than was that of those mountain Indians. No horse was -considered too valuable for them to eat. Notwithstanding -all this sense of injury done to my personal interests, I -could not justify myself in joining any scheme to wrong -them, or rather, the government; and it was too plainly -evident that no damages could be obtained for losses, -except through the California Indian Ring that was now -pretty well established. During the operations of the Battalion, -the plans of the Ring were laid, and it was determined -that when the war should be ended, “a vigorous -peace policy” should be inaugurated. Estimates of the -probable number of Indians that it would be necessary to -provide for in Mariposa county alone, accidentally fell under -my observation, and I at once saw that it was the design -to deceive the government and the people in regard to the -actual number, in order to obtain from Congress large appropriations. -These estimates were cited as official by -Col. McKee, and were ten times more than the truth would -warrant. Major Savage justified his course in using the -opportunity to make himself whole again, while acting as -a trader, and in aiding others to secure “a good thing,” by -the sophism that he was not responsible for the action of -the commissioners or of Congress. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">272</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII.</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Captain Boling elected Sheriff—Appointment of Indian Agents—Ten-ie-ya -allowed to return to Yosemite—Murder of Visitors—Lt. -Moore’s Expedition and Punishment of Murderers—Gold Discoveries -on Eastern Slope of Sierras—Report of Expedition, and first <i>Published</i> -Notice of Yosemite—Squatter Sovereignty—Assault upon -King’s River Reservation—The Supposed Leader, Harvey, Denounced -by Major Savage—A Rencounter and death of Savage—Harvey -Liberated by a Friendly Justice—An Astute Superintendent—A -Mass Meeting—A Rival Aspirant—Indians and Indian Policy.</p></blockquote> - -<p>After being mustered out, the members of the battalion at -once returned to their various avocations. I was fully occupied -with mining and trading operations, and hence gave -little heed to affairs at the Fresno. Through Captain Boling, -however, who was elected Sheriff of the county, and -whose business carried him to all parts of the country, I -learned of the appointment of Col. Thomas Henly as agent -for the tribes of Mariposa county, and as sub-agents M. B. -Lewis for the Fresno and Wm. J. Campbell for the King’s -River Agencies. I afterwards met Col. Henly and Mr. Lewis -in Mariposa, and was much pleased with the Colonel. Both of -these gentlemen were kind and genial; but Mr. Lewis soon -tired of his office as unsuited to his taste, and accepted a -position in the State Government under Major Roman. -His successor, I believe, was Capt. Vincinthalor. Old -Ten-ie-ya, and his band, were never recipients of friendly -favors from Savage, nor was he in very good standing with -the agent. This was known to the other chiefs, and they -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">273</span> -frequently taunted him with his downfall. The old chief -chafed under the contemptuous treatment of those who had -once feared him and applied to the sub-agent or farmer for -permission to go back to his mountain home. He claimed -that he could not endure the heat at the agency, and said -he preferred acorns to the rations furnished him by the Government.</p> - -<p>To rid itself of the consequences engendered by these petty -squabbles with the old chief, the management at the Fresno -consented to a short absence under restrictions. Ten-ie-ya -promised to perform all requirements, and joyfully left the -hot and dry reservation, and with his family, took the trail -to the Yosemite once more. As far as is known, Ten-ie-ya -kept faith and disturbed no one. Soon after his departure, -however, a few of his old followers quietly left the Fresno -as was supposed to join him, but as no complaints were -made by their chiefs, it was understood that they were glad -to be rid of them; therefore no effort was made to bring -them back. During the winter of 1851-52 a considerable -number of horses were stolen, but as some of them were -found in the possession of Mexicans, who were promptly executed -for the theft, no charge was preferred against the -Yosemites.</p> - -<p>Early in May, 1852, a small party of miners from Coarse -Gold Gulch, started out on a prospecting tour with the intention -of making a visit to the Yosemite Valley.</p> - -<p>The curiosity of some of these men had been excited by -descriptions of it, made by some of the ex-members of the -Battalion who had gone to Coarse Gold Gulch, soon after -their discharge. This party spent some little time prospecting -on their way. Commencing on the south fork of the -Merced, they tested the mineral resources of streams tributary -to it; and then, passing over the divide on the old trail, -camped for the purpose of testing the branches leading -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_274">274</span> -into the main Merced. While at this camp, they were visited -by begging Indians; a frequent occurrence in the mining -camps of some localities. The Indians appeared friendly, -and gave no indications of hostile intentions. They -gave the party to understand, however, that the territory -they were then in, belonged to them, although no tribute -was demanded. The miners comprehended their intimations, -but paid no attention to their claim, being aware that -this whole region had been ceded to the Government by -treaty during the year before.</p> - -<p>Having ascertained that they were a part of the Yosemite -Band, the miners by signs, interrogated them as to the -direction of the valley, but this they refused to answer or -pretended not to understand. The valley however, was -known to be near, and no difficulty was anticipated, when -the party were ready to visit it, as an outline map, furnished -them before starting, had thus far proved reliable. -Unsuspicious of danger from an attack, they reached the -valley, and while entering it on the old trail, were ambushed -by the Indians from behind some rocks at or near -the foot of the trail, and two of the party were instantly -killed. Another was seriously wounded, but finally succeeded -in making his escape. The names of the two men -killed were Rose and Shurbon; the name of the wounded -man was Tudor.</p> - -<p>The reports of these murders, alarmed many of the citizens. -They were fearful that the Indians would become -excited and leave the reservations, in which case, it was -thought, a general outbreak would result. The management -of the Fresno agency was censured for allowing Ten-ie-ya to -return to the valley, and for allowing so considerable a number -of his followers to again assemble under his leadership. -Among the miners, this alarm was soon forgotten, for it was -found that instead of leaving the reservations, the Indians -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">275</span> -camped outside, fled to the agencies for protection, lest they -should be picked off in revenge for the murders perpetrated -by the Yo-sem-i-tes. The officer in command at Fort -Miller, was notified of these murders, and a detachment of -regular soldiers under Lt. Moore, U. S. A., was at once dispatched -to capture or punish the red-skins. Beside the -detachment of troops, scouts and guides, and a few of the -friends of the murdered men accompanied the expedition. -Among the volunteer scouts, was A. A. Gray, usually called -“Gus” Gray. He had been a member of Captain Boling’s -company and was with us, when the valley was discovered, -as also on our second visit to the valley under Captain Boling. -He had been a faithful explorer, and his knowledge -of the valley and its vicinity, made his services valuable to -Lt. Moore, as special guide and scout for that locality. -The particulars of this expedition I obtained from Gray. -He was afterward a Captain under Gen. Walker, of Nicaragua -notoriety. Under the guidance of Gray, Lt. Moore -entered the valley in the night, and was successful in surprising -and capturing a party of five savages; but an alarm -was given, and Ten-ie-ya and his people fled from their -huts and escaped. On examination of the prisoners in the -morning, it was discovered that each of them had some article -of clothing that had belonged to the murdered men. -The naked bodies of Rose and Shurbon were found and -buried. Their graves were on the edge of the little -meadow near the Bridal Vail Fall.</p> - -<p>When the captives were accused of the murder of the -two white men, they did not deny the charge; but tacitly -admitted that they had done it to prevent white men from -coming to their valley. They declared that it was their -home, and that white men had no right to come there without -their consent.</p> - -<p>Lieutenant Moore told them, through his interpreter, that -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_276">276</span> -they had sold their lands to the Government, that it belonged -to the white men now; that the Indians had no right there. -They had signed a treaty of peace with the whites, and had -agreed to live on the reservations provided for them. To -this they replied that Ten-ie-ya had never consented to the -sale of their valley, and had never received pay for it. The -other chiefs, they said, had no right to sell their territory, -and no right to laugh at their misfortunes.</p> - -<p>Lieutenant Moore became fully satisfied that he had captured -the real murderers, and the abstract questions of title -and jurisdiction, were not considered debatable in this case. -He promptly pronounced judgment, and sentenced them -to be shot. They were at once placed in line, and by his -order, a volley of musketry from the soldiers announced -that the spirits of five Indians were liberated to occupy -ethereal space.</p> - -<p>This may seem summary justice for a single individual, -in a republic, to meet out to fellow beings on his own -judgment; but a formal judicial killing of these Indians -could not have awarded more summary justice. This -prompt disposition of the captured murderers, was witnessed -by a scout sent out by Ten-ie-ya to watch the movements -of Lieutenant Moore and his command, and was -immediately reported to the old chief, who with his people -at once made a precipitate retreat from their hiding places, -and crossed the mountains to their allies, the Pai-utes and -Monos. Although this was in June, the snow, which was -lighter than the year before at this time, was easily crossed -by the Indians and their families. After a short search, in -the vicinity of the valley, Lieutenant Moore struck their trail -at Lake Ten-ie-ya, and followed them in close pursuit, with -an expressed determination to render as impartial justice -to the whole band as he had to the five in the valley. It -was no disappointment to me to learn from Gray, that -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">277</span> -when once alarmed, old Ten-ie-ya was too much for Lieutenant -Moore, as he had been for Major Savage and Captain -Boling. Lieutenant Moore did not overtake the Indians -he was pursuing, neither was he able to get any information -from the Pai-utes, whom he encountered, while east -of the Sierras. Lieutenant Moore crossed the Sierras -over the Mono trail that leads by the Soda Springs through -the Mono Pass. He made some fair discoveries of gold -and gold-bearing quartz, obsidian and other minerals, -while exploring the region north and south of Bloody -Cañon and of Mono Lake. Finding no trace whatever of -the cunning chief, he returned to the Soda Springs, and -from there took his homeward journey to Fort Miller by way -of the old trail that passed to the south of the Yosemite.</p> - -<p>Lieutenant Moore did not discover the Soda Springs nor -the Mono Lake country, but he brought into prominent notice -the existence of the Yosemite, and of minerals in paying -quantities upon the Eastern Slope. Mr. Moore made a -brief descriptive report of his expedition, that found its way -into the newspapers. At least, I was so informed at the -time, though unable to procure it. I saw, however, some -severe criticisms of his display of autocratic power in ordering -the five Yosemites shot.</p> - -<p>After the establishment of the “Mariposa Chronicle” by -W. T. Witachre and A. S. Gould, the first number of which -was dated January 20, 1854. Lieutenant Moore, to more -fully justify himself or gratify public curiosity, published -in the “Chronicle” a letter descriptive of the expedition -and its results. In this letter he dropped the terminal letter -“y” in the name “Yosemity,” as it had been written -previously by myself and other members of the battalion, -and substituted “e,” as before stated. As Lieutenant -Moore’s article attracted a great deal of public attention -at that time, the name, with its present orthography, was accepted. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_278">278</span> -A copy of the paper containing Moore’s letter was -in my possession for many years, but, finally, to my extreme -regret, it was lost or destroyed.</p> - -<p>To Lieutenant Moore belongs the credit of being the first -to attract the attention of the scientific and literary world, -and “The Press” to the wonders of the Yosemite Valley. -His position as an officer of the regular army, established -a reputation for his article, that could not be expected by -other correspondents. I was shown by Gray, who was exhibiting -them in Mariposa, some very good specimens of -gold quartz, that were found on the Moore expedition. -Leroy Vining, and a few chosen companions, with one of -Moore’s scouts as guide, went over the Sierras to the place -where the gold had been found, and established themselves -on what has since been known as Vining’s Gulch or Creek.</p> - -<p>On the return of Lieutenant Moore to Fort Miller, the -news of his capture of the Indians, and his prompt execution -of them as the murderers of Rose and Shurbon, occasioned -some alarm among the timid, which was encouraged -and kept alive by unprincipled and designing politicians. -All kinds of vague rumors were put in circulation. Many -not in the secret supposed another Indian war would be inaugurated. -Political factions and “Indian Rings” encouraged -a belief in the most improbable rumors, hoping thereby -to influence Congressional action, or operate upon the War -Department to make large estimates for the California Indian -Service.</p> - -<p>This excitement did not extend beyond the locality of -its origin, and the citizens were undisturbed in their industries -by these rumors. During all this time no indications -of hostilities were exhibited by any of the tribes -or bands, although the abusive treatment they received at -the hands of some, was enough to provoke contention. -They quietly remained on the reservations. As far as I was -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_279">279</span> -able to learn at the time, a few persons envied them the -possession of their King’s river reservation, and determined -to “<i>squat</i>” upon it, after they should have been driven off. -This “border element” was made use of by an unprincipled -schemer by the name of Harvey, whom it was understood -was willing to accept office, when a division of Mariposa -county should have been made, or when a vacancy of any -kind should occur. But population was required, and the -best lands had been reserved for the savages. A few hangers-on, -at the agencies, that had been discharged for want -of employment and other reasons, made claims upon the -King’s river reservation; the Indians came to warn them -off, when they were at once fired upon, and it was reported -that several were killed.</p> - -<p>These agitations and murders were denounced by Major -Savage in unsparing terms, and he claimed that Harvey -was responsible for them. Although the citizens of Mariposa -were at the time unable to learn the details of the affair -at King’s river, which was a distant settlement, the great -mass of the people were satisfied that wrong had been done -to the Indians. There had been a very decided opposition -by the citizens generally to the establishment of two agencies -in the county, and the selection of the best agricultural -lands for reservations. Mariposa then included nearly the -whole San Joaquin valley south of the Tuolumne.</p> - -<p>The opponents to the recommendations of the commissioners -claimed that “The government of the United States -has no right to select the territory of a sovereign State to -establish reservations for the Indians, nor for any other purpose, -without the consent of the State.” The State Legislature -of 1851-52, instructed the Senators and Representatives -in Congress to use their influence to have the Indians -removed beyond the limits of the State. These views had -been advocated by many of the citizens of Mariposa county -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_280">280</span> -in good faith; but it was observed that those who most -actively annoyed and persecuted those located on King’s -river reservation were countenanced by those who professed -to advocate opposite views. These men were often to be -seen at the agency, apparently the welcome guests of the -employes of government.</p> - -<p>It soon became quite evident, that an effort was being -made to influence public opinion, and create an impression -that there was imminent danger; in order that the general -government would thereby be more readily induced to -continue large appropriations to keep in subjection the -comparatively few savages in the country.</p> - -<p>It was a well known fact that these people preferred horse-flesh -and their acorn jelly to the rations of beef that were -supposed to have been issued by the Government. During -this time, Major Savage was successfully pursuing his trade -with the miners of the Fresno and surrounding territory, -and with the Indians at the agency. Frequently those from -the King’s River Agency, would come to Savage to trade, -thereby exciting the jealous ire of the King’s river traders. -Self-interest as well as public good prompted Savage to use -every means at his disposal to keep these people quiet, and -he denounced Harvey and his associates as entitled to punishment -under the laws of the Government. These denunciations, -of course, reached Harvey and his friends. Harvey -and a sub-agent by the name of Campbell, seemed -most aggrieved at what Savage had said of the affray, and -both appeared to make common cause in denouncing the -Major in return. Harvey made accusations against the -integrity of Savage, and boasted that Savage would not dare -visit King’s river while he, Harvey, was there. As soon as -this reached the Major’s ears, he mounted his horse and at -once started for the King’s River Agency.</p> - -<p>Here, as expected, Harvey was found, in good fellowship -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_281">281</span> -with Marvin, the quartermaster, and others connected with -the agency. Walking up to Harvey, Major Savage demanded -of him a retraction of his offensive remarks -concerning himself. This Harvey refused to do, and said -something to the effect that Savage had talked about Harvey. -“Yes,” replied Major Savage, “I have said that you are a -murderer and a coward.” Harvey retreated a pace or two -and muttered that it was a lie. As quick as the word was -uttered, Savage knocked Harvey down. Harvey appeared -to play ’possum and made no resistance. As Savage stooped -over the prostrate Harvey, a pistol fell from Savage’s waist, -seeing which, Marvin picked it up and held it in his hand -as the Major walked off. Harvey rose to his feet at this -moment, and seeing Marvin with the pistol in his hand exclaimed, -“Judge, you have got my pistol!” Marvin replied, -“No! I have not. This belongs to Major Savage.” -When, instantly, Harvey commenced firing at Major Savage, -who, though mortally wounded by the first shot, and -finding his pistol gone, strove hard to once more reach -Harvey, whom he had scorned to further punish when prostrate -before him.</p> - -<p>This was in August, 1852. Harvey was arrested, or gave -himself up, and after the farce of an examination, was discharged. -The justice, before whom Harvey was examined, -was a personal friend of the murderer, but had previously -fed upon the bounty of Savage. Afterwards, he commenced -a series of newspaper articles, assailing the Indian management -of California, and these articles culminated in his receiving -congenial employment at one of the agencies. -Harvey, having killed his man, was now well calculated for -a successful California politician of that period, and was -triumphantly elected to office; but the ghost of Major Savage -seemed to have haunted him, for ever after, he was -nervous and irritable, and finally died of paralysis. The -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">282</span> -body of Major Savage was afterwards removed to the Fresno, -near his old trading post. A monument was there erected -to his memory by Dr. Leach, his successor in business.</p> - -<p>I was in San Francisco at the time of these troubles at -the agencies; but upon my return, obtained the main facts -as here stated, from one of the actors in the tragedy.</p> - -<p>At about this time, the management of California Indian -affairs, became an important stake in the political circles of -Mariposa. I took but little interest in the factions that -were assaulting each other with charges of corruption. -Notwithstanding my lack of personal interest, I was -startled from my indifference by the report of the Superintendent -dated February, 1853. His sweeping denunciations -of the people of Mariposa county was a matter of surprise, -as I knew it to be unjust. This report was considered in a -general mass meeting of the best citizens of the county, -and was very properly condemned as untrue. Among those -who took an active part in this meeting were Sam Bell -(once State Comptroller), Judge Bondurant, Senator James -Wade, and other members of the State Legislature, and -many influential citizens, who generally took but a minor -interest in political affairs.</p> - -<p>The records of the meeting, and the resolutions condemning -the statements of the Superintendent of Indian Affairs, -which were unanimously adopted, and were published in -the “Mariposa Chronicle” after its establishment, I have preserved -as a record of the times. The meeting expressed the -general sentiment of the people, but it accomplished nothing -in opposition to the Superintendent’s policy, for the -people soon discovered that the great “<i>Agitator</i>” at these -meetings was a would-be rival of the Superintendent. We -therefore bowed our heads and thought of the fox in the -fable. I never chanced to meet the gentleman who was at -that time Superintendent of Indian Affairs, and know nothing -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_283">283</span> -of him personally, but upon reading an official letter of -his dated at Los Angeles, August 22nd, 1853, in which he -speaks of “The establishment of an entire new system of -government, which is to change the character and habits of -a hundred thousand persons.” And another letter dated -San Francisco, September 30th, 1853, saying that his farm -agent, Mr. Edwards, “Had with great tact and with the -assistance of Mr. Alexander Gody, by traveling from tribe -to tribe, and talking constantly with them, succeeded in -preventing any outbreak or disturbance in the San Joaquin -Valley.” I came to the conclusion that the Superintendent -of Indian Affairs was under astute management, or that he -was one of the <i>shrewdest</i> of the many <i>shrewd operators</i> on -the Pacific Coast. The schemes of the <i>Indian Ring</i> were -not endorsed by Governor Weller, but were practically condemned -in a public letter. The charges against the people -of Mariposa by the Superintendent of Indian Affairs were -absurd and grossly insulting to their intelligence. There -had been no assault upon the Indians, except that at King’s -river, led by the hangers-on at one of his own agencies. -These men continued to be honored guests at the tables of -his employes, and one of his most vigorous assailants was -given employment that silenced him.</p> - -<p>The estimates made by him in his letters and report, were -on an assumed probability of a renewal of Indian hostilities. -It was true, murders were occasionally committed by -them, but they were few as compared with those committed -by the Mexicans and Americans among themselves. The -estimate of a hundred thousand Indians in California, was -known by every intelligent man who had given the subject -any attention, to be fabulous. There was probably not a fifth -of the number. But that was of no consequence, as the -schemes of the “Ring” were successful. Large appropriations -were made by Congress in accordance with stipulations -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_284">284</span> -of the treaty made between these ignorant tribes, and -the Republic of the United States of America. The recommendations -were generally carried out <i>in Washington</i>.</p> - -<p>The making of a treaty of peace with Indian tribes, may -be correctly defined as procuring a release of all claims -of certain territory occupied by them. Congress may make -appropriations to provide for the promises made, but it is a -well known fact that these appropriations are largely absorbed -by the agents of the government, without the provisions -being fulfilled. The defrauded victims of the <i>treaty</i> -are looked upon as pauper wards of a generous nationality; -and the lavish expenditure of the Government, is mostly -consumed by the harpies who hover around these objects of -national charity. This farce of making treaties with every -little tribe as a distinct nationality, is an absurdity which -should long ago have been ended. With formal ceremony, -a treaty of peace is made with people occupying territory -under the jurisdiction of our national organization. A -governmental power is recognized in the patriarchal or -tribal representatives of these predatory bands, and all the -forms of a legal and national obligation are entered into, -only to be broken and rebroken, at the will of some succeeding -administration.</p> - -<p>An inherited possessive right of the Indians to certain -territory required for their use, is acknowledged, and should -be, by the Government, but to recognize this as a tribal or -national right, is but to continue and foster their instinctive -opposition to our Government, by concentrating and inflaming -their native pride and arrogance.</p> - -<p>The individual, and his responsibilities, become lost in -that of his tribe, and until that power is broken, and the individual -is made to assume the responsibilities of a man, -there will be but little hope of improvement. The individual -is now scarcely recognized by the people (except he -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_285">285</span> -be representative); he is but an integral number of a tribe. -He has a nationality without a country, and feels that his -people have no certain home. He knows that he has been -pauperized by contact with the whites and the policy pursued -by the Government towards him, and he scorns, while -he accepts its bounty. These native-born residents of our -common country, are not citizens; their inherent rights are -not sufficiently protected, and, feeling this, they in turn, -disregard the law or set it at defiance. The best part of my -life has been spent upon the frontiers of civilization, where -ample opportunities have been afforded me to observe our -national injustice in assuming the guardianship and management -of the Indian, without fulfilling the treaty stipulations -that afford him the necessary protection. The policy -of the Government has seemed to be to keep them under -restraint as animals, rather than of protective improvement -as rational human beings. What matters it, though the -National Government, by solemn treaty, pledges its faith to -their improvement, if its agents do not fulfill its obligations. -I am no blind worshipper of the romantic Indian, nor admirer -of the real one; but his degraded condition of pauperism, -resulting from the mismanagement of our Indian -affairs, has often aroused in me an earnest sympathy for the -race. They are not deficient in brain-power, and they -should rise from degradation and want, if properly managed. -I am not classed as a radical reformer, but I would -like to see a <i>radical</i> change in their management.</p> - -<p>I would like to see the experiment tried by the Government -and its agents of dealing justly with them, and strictly -upon honor. I would like to see those who have the management -of Indian affairs selected because of their fitness -for their positions, without making political or religious -considerations pre-requisite, qualifications. Morality and -strict integrity of character, should be indispensable requirements -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_286">286</span> -for official positions; but a division of patronage, -or of Indian <i>souls</i> among the various religious sects or -churches, is contrary to the spirit, if not the letter, of our -Federal Constitution, and the strife this policy has already -engendered among the various sects, is not calculated to -impress even the savage with a very high estimate of Christian -forbearance and virtue. The cardinal principles of -Christianity should be taught the children by <i>example</i>, -while teaching them the necessity of obeying God’s moral -and physical laws. I would like to see the Indian individually -held responsible for all his acts, and as soon as may -be, all tribal relations and tribal accountability done away -with, and ignored by the Government.</p> - -<p>The question of a transfer of the Indian Bureau to the -War Department, has been for some time agitated, but it -seems to me that some facts bearing on the subject have not -been, sufficiently discussed or understood. These are that -the various tribes are warlike in their habits and character, -and have been engaged in wars of conquest among themselves -ever since they first became known to the white settlers -of the country. Their <i>immediate</i> right to the territory -they now occupy is derived from the dispossession of some -other tribe. They recognize the <i>lex talionis</i> as supreme, -and their obedience to law and order among themselves is -only in proportion to their respect for the chief, or power -that controls them. Hence, for the Sioux and other unsubdued -tribes, military control, in my opinion, would be best -suited to their war-like natures and roving habits. The objection -that their management by the War Department had -proved a failure, is not a valid one, as when formerly the -Bureau was under its nominal control, all appointments of -agents were made from civil life, as political rewards from -those in power. The political kites, scenting the fat things -hidden away in the office of an agent, pounced down upon -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_287">287</span> -them, exclaiming: “To the victors belong the spoils.” -The title of “Major” given the agent was due to courtesy -and the legitimate pay afforded, being that of a major in -the army.</p> - -<p>The duties of the office are anything but agreeable to an -officer who has been educated for the profession of a soldier. -Few are disposed to do the incessant drudgery required of -an effective agent. As a rule, the permanency of office, the -education and <i>amour propre</i> of military life, raises the army -officer above the temptations of the ordinary politician; -therefore, the <i>chances</i> of an honest administration of affairs -are very much in favor of the War Department. To make -that management more effective, reasonable pay should be -given competent men, as the expenses of frontier life are -usually considerable. Years are required to comprehend -and order, a practical management of people who are, in one -sense, but overgrown, vicious children. Such agents -should be retained as long as they remain honest and effective, -regardless of church or political creeds.</p> - -<p>As the wild tribes recognize no authority but that of the -<i>lex-taliones</i>; by this law they should be governed. <i>Any -attempt to govern or civilize them without the power to compel -obedience, will be looked upon by barbarians with derision</i>, -and all idea of Christianizing <i>adult</i> Indians, while -they realize the injustice done them by the whites, will -prove impracticable. The children may be brought under -some moderate system of compulsory education and labor, -but the adults never can be. <i>Moral suasion</i> is not comprehended -as a <i>power</i>, for the Indian’s moral qualities seem -not to have been unfolded.</p> - -<p>The savage is naturally vain, cruel and arrogant. He -boasts of his murders and robberies, and the tortures of his -victims very much in the same manner that he recounts his -deeds of valor in battle, his prowess in killing the grizzly, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_288">288</span> -and his skill in entrapping the beaver. His treachery, is to -him but cunning, his revenge a holy obligation, and his religion -but a superstitious fear. The Indians that have resorted -to labor as a means of future support, should be -encouraged and continued under the care of civilians. -Their religious instruction, like that of the whites, may -safely be left to their own choice; but for the <i>wild</i> savage -a just and humane control is necessary for their own well-being, -as well as that of the white people; for even in this -nineteenth century, life is sometimes sacrificed under some -religious delusion.</p> - -<p>The war between different tribes is a natural result of -their efforts to maintain <i>independent</i> sovereignties. The -motives that influence them are not very unlike those that -operate upon the most highly favored <i>Christian nations</i>, -except that religion, as a rule, has but little to answer for, -as they are mostly of one religious faith. All believe in the -influence of and communion with departed spirits. The -limited support afforded by the game of a given territory, -frequently compels encroachments that result in war. Ambition -for fame and leadership prompts young aspirants for -the honors awarded to successful warriors, and they bear an -initiatory torture in order to prove their fortitude and -bravery, that would almost seem beyond human endurance. -After a reputation has been acquired as a successful leader, -old feuds must be maintained and new wars originated to -gratify and employ ambitious followers, or the glory and -influence of the successful chieftain will soon depart or be -given to some new aspirant for the leadership of the tribe. -In their warlike movements, as in all their private affairs, -their “medicine men” are important personages. They are -supposed to have power to propitiate evil spirits or exorcise -them. They assume the duties of physicians, orators and -advisers in their councils, and perform the official duties of -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_289">289</span> -priests in their religious ceremonies. In my inquiries concerning -their religious faith, I have sometimes been surprised, -as well as amused, at the grotesque expressions used -in explanations of their crude ideas of theology. With their -mythology and traditions, would occasionally appear expressions -evidently derived from the teachings of Christianity, -the origin of which, no doubt, might have been traced -to the old Missions. The fugitive converts from those Missions -being the means of engrafting the Catholic element on -to the original belief of the mountain tribes. Their recitations -were a peculiar mixture, but they vehemently claimed -them as original, and as revealed to them by the Great -Spirit, through his mediums or prophets (their “medicine -men”), in visions and trances. These “mediums,” in their -character of priests, are held in great veneration.</p> - -<p>They are consulted upon all important occasions, let it be -of war, of the chase, plunder or of marriage. They provide -charms and amulets to protect the wearer from the evil -influence of adverse spirits and the weapons of war, and -receive for these mighty favors donations corresponding to -the support afforded Christian priests and ministers. The -sanctification of these relics is performed by an elaborate -mysterious ceremony, the climax of which is performed in -secret by the priestly magnate. The older the relic, the -more sacred it becomes as an heirloom.</p> - -<p>Marriage among the Indians is regarded from a business -standpoint. The preliminaries are usually arranged with -the parents, guardians and friends, by the patriarch of the -family, or the chief of the tribe. When an offer of marriage -is made, the priest is consulted, he generally designates -the price to be paid for the <i>bride</i>. The squaws of -these mountain tribes are not generally voluptuous or ardent, -and notwithstanding their low and degraded condition, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_290">290</span> -they were naturally more virtuous, than has been generally -supposed.</p> - -<p>Their government being largely patriarchal, the women -are subjects of the will of the patriarch in all domestic relations. -The result is, that they have become passively -submissive creatures of men’s will. Believing this to be -the natural sphere of their existence, they hold in contempt -one who performs menial labor, which they have been -taught belongs to their sex alone.</p> - -<p>The habits of these mountain tribes being simple; their -animal passions not being stimulated by the condiments -and artificial habits of civilized life; they, in their native -condition, closely resembled the higher order of animals in -pairing for offspring. The spring time is their season of -love. When the young clover blooms and the wild anise -throws its fragrance upon mountain and dell, then, in the -seclusion of the forest are formed those unions which among -the civilized races are sanctioned by the church and by the -laws of the country.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="i_290" src="images/i_290.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">LAKE STAR KING. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_291a">291a</span></p></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII.</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Murder of Starkey—Death of Ten-ie-ya and Extinction of his Band—A -few Surviving Murderers—An Attempt at Reformation—A Failure -and loss of a Mule—Murders of Robert D. Sevil and Robert Smith—Alarm -of the People—A False Alarm.</p></blockquote> - -<p>During the winter of 1852-3, Jesse Starkey and Mr. -Johnson, comrades of the Mariposa battalion and expert -hunters, were engaged in supplying miners along the Mariposa -Creek with venison and bear meat. They were encamped -on the head waters of the Chow-chilla and fearing -no danger, slept soundly in their encampment. They -had met Indians from time to time, who seemed friendly -enough, and even the few escaped Yosemites who recognized -Starkey, showed no sign of dislike; and hence no -proper precautions were taken against their treachery.</p> - -<p>A few days only had passed in the occupation of hunting, -when a night attack was made upon the hunters. Starkey -was instantly killed, but Johnson, though wounded, escaped -to Mariposa on one of their mules.</p> - -<p>James M. Roan, Deputy Sheriff under Captain Boling, -took direction of the wounded man, and with a posse of -but 15 miners, went out to the Chow-chilla, where they -found the naked and mutilated remains of poor Starkey, -which they buried uncoffined at the camp.</p> - -<p>After that sad duty was accomplished, the little party -of brave men pursued the trail of the savages into the -Snowy Mountains, where they were overtaken and given -merited chastisement. Three Indians fell dead at the -first fire, while others were wounded and died afterwards. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_291">291</span></p> - -<p>No united effort was made to repel the whites, and -panic-stricken, the renegade robbers fled into their hidden -recesses. Cossom, an Indian implicated, confessed, long -afterwards, that their loss in the attack was at least a dozen -killed and wounded, and that the robber murderers of -Starkey were renegade Yosemite and other Indians who -had refused to live at the reservation. It was several -months after Mr. Roan’s encounter with those Indians -before I learned the full particulars, and when any of the -remnants of the band of Yosemites appealed to me for -aid, I still gave them relief.</p> - -<p>DURING the summer of 1853, Mr. E. G. Barton and myself -were engaged in trading and mining on the Merced. We -had established a station on the north side of the river, several -miles above the mouth of the North Fork. We here -had the patronage of the miners on the river and its branches -above, as well as in our own vicinity, and from the North -Fork. From some of the miners who visited our store from -the vicinity of the South Fork, I learned that a short time -before, a small party of the Yosemities had come to their -diggings and asked for food and protection from their enemies, -who, they said, had killed their chief and most of -their people, and were pursuing themselves. The affrighted -and wounded wretches reported to them that they had been -attacked while in their houses by a large party of Monos -from the other side of the mountains, and that all of their -band had been killed except those who had asked protection.</p> - -<p>The miners had allowed the Indians to camp near by, but -refused to give them any but a temporary supply of food.</p> - -<p>Knowing that I was familiar with the Valley, and acquainted -with the band, they asked my advice as to what -they ought to do with their neighbors. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_292">292</span></p> - -<p>Feeling some sympathy for the people who had made -their homes in the Yosemite, and thinking that I might -aid and induce them to work as miners, I sent them word -to come down to our store, as there were plenty of fish and -acorns near by. A few came, when I told them that if in -future they were <i>good Indians</i>, the whites would protect -them from their enemies, and buy their gold. They expressed -a willingness to work for food and clothing if they -could find gold.</p> - -<p>I furnished them some tools to prospect, and they came -back sanguine of success. A Tu-ol-um-ne Indian named -“Joe,” and two or three families of Yosemities came -down and camped on Bull Creek and commenced to gather -acorns, while “Joe” as head miner, worked with the others -in the gulches and on the North Fork. This experiment -of working and reforming robbers soon proved a failure, -for upon the death of one of them who had been injured, -they could not be induced to remain or work any longer, -and “Joe,” and his new followers stampeded for the Hetch-Hetchy -Valley.</p> - -<p>From these Indians, and subsequently from others, I -learned the following statements relative to the death of Old -Ten-ie-ya. After the murder of the French miners from -Coarse Gold Gulch, and his escape from Lieut. Moore, Ten-ie-ya, -with the larger part of his band, fled to the east side -of the Sierras. He and his people were kindly received by -the Monos and secreted until Moore left that locality and -returned to Fort Miller.</p> - -<p>Ten-ie-ya was recognized, by the Mono tribe, as one of -their number, as he was born and lived among them until -his ambition made him a leader and founder of the Pai-Ute -colony in Ah-wah-ne. His history and warlike exploits -formed a part of the traditionary lore of the Monos. They -were proud of his successes and boasted of his descent from -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_293">293</span> -their tribe, although Ten-ie-ya himself claimed that -his father was the chief of an independent people, whose ancestors -were of a different race. Ten-ie-ya had, by his cunning -and sagacity in managing the deserters from other -tribes, who had sought his protection, maintained a reputation -as a chief whose leadership was never disputed by his -followers, and who was the envy of the leaders of other -tribes. After his subjugation by the whites, he was deserted -by his followers, and his supremacy was no longer -acknowledged by the neighboring tribes, who had feared -rather than respected him or the people of his band. Ten-ie-ya -and his refugee band were so hospitably received and -entertained by the Monos that they seemed in no hurry to -return to their valley.</p> - -<p>According to custom with these mountaineers, a portion -of territory was given to them for their occupancy by consent -of the tribe; for individual right to territory is not -claimed, nor would it be tolerated. Ten-ie-ya staid with -the Monos until late in the summer or early autumn of -1853, when he and his people suddenly left the locality that -had been assigned to them, and returned to their haunts in -the Yosemite valley, with the intention of remaining there -unless again driven out by the whites. Permanent wigwams -were constructed by the squaws, near the head of the -valley, among the rocks, not readily discernable to visitors. -Not long after Ten-ie-ya had re-established himself in his -old home, a party of his young men left on a secret foraging -expedition for the camp of the Monos, which was then -established at or near Mono Lake. According to the statement -made to me, there had just been a successful raid and -capture of horses by the Monos and Pai-Utes from some of -the Southern California ranchos, and Ten-ie-ya’s men concluded, -rather than risk a raid on the white men, to steal from -the Mono’s, trusting to their cunning to escape detection. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_294">294</span></p> - -<p>Ten-ie-ya’s party succeeded in <i>recapturing</i> a few of the -stolen horses, and after a circuitous and baffling route -through the pass at the head of the San Joaquin, finally -reached the valley with their spoils.</p> - -<p>After a few days’ delay, and thinking themselves secure, -they killed one or more of the horses, and were in the enjoyment -of a grand feast in honor of their return, when the -Mono’s pounced down upon them. Their gluttony seemed -to have rendered them oblivious of all danger to themselves, -and of the ingratitude by which the feast had been supplied. -Like sloths, they appear to have been asleep after -having surfeited their appetites. They were surprised in -their wig-wams by the wronged and vengeful Monos and -before they could rally for the fight, the treacherous old -chief was struck down by the hand of a powerful young -Mono chief. Ten-ie-ya had been the principal object of attack -at the commencement of the assault, but he had held -the others at bay until discovered by the young chief, who -having exhausted his supply of arrows, seized a fragment -of rock and hurled it with such force as to crush the skull -of “the old grizzly.” As Ten-ie-ya fell, other stones were -cast upon him by the attacking party, after the Pai-ute custom, -until he was literally stoned to death. All but eight -of Ten-ie-ya’s young braves were killed; these escaped -down the valley, and through the cañon below.</p> - -<p>The old men and women, who survived the first assault, -were permitted to escape from the valley. The young -women and children were made captives and taken across -the mountains to be held as slaves or drudges to their captors. -I frequently entertained the visitors at our store on -the Merced with descriptions of the valley. The curiosity -of some of the miners was excited, and they proposed to -make a visit as soon as it could be made with safety. -I expressed the opinion that there would be but little danger -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_295">295</span> -from Indians, as the Mono’s and Pai-utes only came for -acorns, and that the Yo-sem-i-ties were so nearly destroyed, -that at least, while they were mourning the loss of their -chief, and their people, no fear need be entertained of them.</p> - -<p>Three of these miners, from the North Fork of the Merced, -visited the valley soon after this interview. These men -were from Michigan. Their glowing descriptions on their -return, induced five others from the North Fork to visit it -also. On their return trip they missed the trail that would -have taken them over the ridge to their own camp and kept -on down to the path which led to our establishment. While -partaking of our hospitalities, they discussed the incidents -of their excursion, and I was soon convinced that they had -been to the Yosemite. They spoke of the lower and the high -fall rather disparagingly, and expressed disappointment, -when told of the existence of cascades and cataracts, that -they had not known of or seen. I questioned them as to -Indians, and learned that they had not seen any on the trip, -but had seen deserted huts below the cañon.</p> - -<p>I learned soon after, from some miners from the mouth of -the “South Fork,” that all of the Yosemites who had camped -on the flats below the cañon, had left suddenly for the -Tuolumne. These two parties were the first white men that -visited the Yosemite Valley after the visit of Lieut. Moore, -the year before (1852). The names of these miners have -now passed from my memory, but I afterwards met one of -these gentlemen at Mr. George W. Coulter’s Hotel, in -Coultersville, and another at Big Oak Flat, and both seemed -well known to Lovely Rogers and other old residents. I -was shown, by the first party, some good specimens of gold -quartz that had been found on the north side of the Merced -below the cañon. Late in the fall of this year (1853), three -of the remnant of Ten-ie-ya’s band came to our store. They -did not offer to trade, and when questioned, told me that they -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_296">296</span> -had been camping on the Tuolumne, and had come down to -the Merced to get some fish. I gave them some provisions, -and they left, apparently satisfied if not thankful. A few -nights afterwards, one of our best mules disappeared. This -mule was a favorite mountain animal, sure footed and easy -gaited under the saddle. In following up its tracks, I discovered -that it had been stolen by Indians, and my suspicions -were that my Yosemite friends were the culprits. -I made every effort to recover the animal, but without success.</p> - -<p>After the close of the mining season in the fall of 1853, -we left our trading establishment and mining works in -charge of two men in our employ, Robt. D. Sevil, of -Smyrna, Delaware, and Robt. Smith, a Dane. The establishment -was visited from time to time, by either Barton or -myself during the winter of 1853-54, when upon one occasional -visit, it was found by Mr. Barton to have been -plundered. With Nat. Harbert, a brave Texan, I at once -started for the establishment, only to find it a scene of desolation. -I was informed by some miners who had been out -prospecting, that the body of Smith had been found on a -slaty point in the river below, but that nothing could be -discovered of Sevil, or the murderers. We found the tracks -of Indians and traced them to the mountains, but failed to -find their hiding places. We lost their trail over the bare, -slaty ground above the river. The tracks had indicated to -us that Indians were the murderers, before we had learned -from the miners the circumstances connected with the finding -of Smith’s body. It had been pierced by nine arrows, -five of which were still found quivering in his flesh. Upon -the discovery of the body by the miners, a burial party was -led by Doctor Porter, from the North Fork, to the scene of -the murders; and with the assistance of his associates, Mr. -Long, and others, it was given proper burial. The body of -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_297">297</span> -Sevil was not found until long afterwards. When discovered, -it was undistinguishable, but from the location in the -river, we had no doubt of its identity. I reported the -murders and robbery to the authorities of Mariposa county. -Captain Boling was sheriff; but having business that required -his urgent attention, deputized me to act for him in -the matter. He expressed a decided belief that the murders -had been committed by the Yosemities. He recommended -me to take a strong posse with me, and to be -cautious and guarded against treachery; saying: “You -know as well as I do, that all of the Yosemities are murderers -and thieves.” In reply, I informed him of the killing -of Ten-ie-ya and nearly all of his band by the Monos; and -told him that I had ridden alone through the country wherever -business called me, and that whenever I had met any of -the old band they seemed quite friendly. The Captain said he -would not visit the valley without sufficient force to protect -himself. Upon telling him of the encampment on the -Tuolumne, Captain Boling said that was beyond his jurisdiction.</p> - -<p>Mr. Harbert and myself concluded to make a thorough -exploration for the murderers, and with this object in view, -rode to Marble Springs, and commenced our search -along the Tuolumne divide, hoping to find some place where -the tracks would be found once more concentrated. After -a tiresome search, without success or encouragement, we -went down to the camp of the miners, on the North Fork, -to consult with them. We found old acquaintances among -these gentlemen, and Dr. Porter and Mr. Long were especially -hospitable. It was the opinion of these intelligent gentlemen, -that the murderers had gone to the Upper Tuolumne -river and were banded with the renegades of the -Tuolumne tribe that had once been under Ten-ie-ya. They -expressed the belief that not less than twenty men should -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_298">298</span> -undertake an expedition against them. As the principal -articles stolen from our store were clothing and blankets, it -was supposed the murderers would probably be found near -some of the acorn <i>caches</i> in the mountain cañons.</p> - -<p>Feeling it would be useless to attempt anything further -without an authorized expedition, we left the North Fork -and our hospitable friends, and at once returned to Mariposa, -where I reported to Sheriff Boling and Judge Bondurant -the result of our trip. These officials decided that the territory -which it would be necessary to explore, was not -within their jurisdiction. That they had no authority to -declare war against the Tuolumne Indians, but said that -they would report the circumstances of the murders and -robberies to the military authorities, to the Governor, and -to the officials of Tuolumne county. Here the matter -rested, and nothing more was ever done by public authority. -I was afterwards advised to put in a claim on the two hundred -and fifty thousand dollars voted by Congress for the -Indians of California; but after some consideration of this -advice, my conclusion was that the original claimants to -this money would scarcely be willing to make any division -of their legitimate spoils.</p> - -<p>Although no action had been taken by the authorities, -the murders of Sevil and Smith soon became generally -known, and the inhabitants of Mariposa became alarmed -from the rumors in circulation, of another general outbreak. -I visited the Fresno Agency and found that the -Indians there had heard of the raid on our establishment, -and, on interrogating them, they expressed the opinion that -the Yosemites were the ones who had murdered the men. -Their theory of the attack was, that they had first killed the -men for the sake of the clothing on their persons, and afterwards -had robbed the store of the clothing and blankets, -because they were cold in their mountain retreat, and yet -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_299">299</span> -dared not live among other people. Some of these, at the -Fresno, said that if the whites would fit out an expedition, -they would go and help <i>kill</i> the murderers; “for,” said they, -“those are bad Indians. They dare not visit the reservation, -for we know that they would steal from us and the -white people, and then we would all be made to suffer from -their misconduct. We are now afraid to leave the reservation -to hunt, lest we be mistaken and killed for what they -have done.”</p> - -<p>I was convinced by my visit to the agency, that there was -no grounds for fear of another outbreak among the Indians. -I traveled about as I had usually done before. I was cautious -in out-of-the-way places, but I cannot say that I hesitated -at any time to prospect. When I heard people -express an opinion that it would be dangerous to enter the -Yosemite Valley without a strong escort, I refrained from -expressing my convictions. I felt unwilling to publicly -oppose the opinions of some of my late comrades, more -especially after my recent experience with the Yosemites. -During the summer of 1854 no visits were made to the -valley, as far as I know, and if there had been, I was so -situated as likely to have been acquainted with the fact. -Many of my old companions in the battalion, never shared -my admiration for the Yosemite. Their descriptions were -so common-place as to lead the people of the village of Mariposa -to suppose that, as a curiosity, the scenery would -scarcely repay the risk and labor of a visit. The murders -of Smith and Sevil deterred some who had designed to visit -the valley that season. The nervous ones were still further -alarmed by a general stampede of the miners on the South -Fork of the Merced, which occurred in the summer of that -year (1854). This was caused by a visit to their neighborhood -of some Pai-Utes and Monos, from the east side of the -Sierras, who came to examine the prospects for the acorn-harvest, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_300">300</span> -and probably take back with them some they had -<i>cached</i>.</p> - -<p>This visit of strange Indians to some of the miners’ -camps, was not at first understood and a wild alarm was -raised without a comprehension of the facts of the case. -Captain Boling, as sheriff, summoned to his aid a number -of the old members of his company. I was one of the -number. We made a night ride to the place of alarm, and -on arriving, found that we had been sold. We felt chagrined, -although it was gratifying to learn that alarm had -been made without a cause. An old ’49er, that we found, -apologized for the verdants. He said: “Probably, as long -as men continue about as they now are, we must expect to -find fools in all communities; but, if a premium for d—— -fools should be offered by any responsible party, you will -see a bigger stampede from these diggings than these Indians -have made.” The whiskey was ordered for the old -stager, and the apology considered as acceptable. We returned -to Mariposa wiser, if not <i>better</i> men. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_301">301</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX.</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Engineering and History—Speculation and Discouragement—A New -Deal—Wall Street—A Primitive Bridge—First Woman in the Yosemite—Lady -Visitors from Mariposa and Lady Teachers from San Francisco—Measurements -of Heights—First Houses, and their Occupants—A -Gay Party and a Glorious Feast.</p></blockquote> - -<p>Although no visits were made during the year 1854 to -the Yosemite Valley, it was at this time that the existence -of such a locality began to be generally known outside of -the limits of Mariposa county. Many of the inhabitants of -that county, however, were still incredulous of its being any -more remarkable than some other localities among the Sierras. -As a matter of early history, I will give a few details -of occurrences indirectly connected with the bringing of -this valley to the attention of the public as a wonderful -natural curiosity.</p> - -<p>During the year 1854 an effort was made by a party of -engineers from Tuolumne county, to explore a route by -which water could be brought from the South Fork of the -Merced river into the “dry diggings.” After a reconnoissance, -the route was pronounced too expensive to be profitable, -as the supply of water would be insufficient, unless -the ditch should be extended to the main river, which was -not considered practicable.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding this adverse report, the Mariposa -“Chronicle” continued to advocate the practicability of the -proposed plan, and made some effort to induce capitalists to -take an interest in the enterprise, claiming that like investments -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_302">302</span> -had proved profitable in the northern mines. To test -the feasibility of such a project, Colonel Caruthers and -Angevine Reynolds, then of Stockton, came up to explore and -run a line of levels over the route. They brought with them, -as engineer, Capt. Kiel, a practical surveyor, and a most accomplished -mathematician. Captain Boling, having referred -these gentlemen to me as one most likely to aid in their -undertaking, and practically familiar with that part of the -country, I joined them in their enterprise. We started our -survey at the “Snow Creek” divide. Col. Caruthers was -enthusiastic over the prospect of success, as we advanced, -but after rounding the point at “Devil’s Gulch,” and while -Mr. Reynolds and myself were establishing a flag station -on the opposite side, the Colonel collapsed and ordered a -discontinuance of the survey.</p> - -<p>Not feeling satisfied with this decision, Mr. Reynolds -and myself, mutually agreed to complete the survey. Reynolds -was a man of energy and indomitable perseverance. -He was the first to establish an express to the Southern -mines, and afterwards was for fourteen years successively -elected to responsible offices in Mariposa county. I handled -the instrument, and Mr. Reynolds acted as rodman. We -continued the line up, passed all real obstacles, and then -Captain Kiel, who was quite an old gentleman, completed -the survey and mapped out the route. During this survey, -Mr. Reynolds and myself crossed the South Fork and explored -along the divide. We were within six or seven miles -of the Yosemite, but did not go to it. <i>This was the only -year since its discovery, that it was not visited by white -men.</i> No Indians were seen by our party, during the time -of this survey.</p> - -<p>The next season, 1855, the survey began by Caruthers, -Reynolds and myself, was pushed with vigor, and although -the subject matter of extending the ditch to the main -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_303">303</span> -stream was freely discussed and advocated by the <i>Chronicle</i>, -no action was taken. Up to this time, the Yosemite was -scarcely thought of by the generality of gold hunters and -denizens of Mariposa county; that is, in connexion with its -stupendous cliffs and wonderful scenery. The solemn -grandeur of the locality, and the immensity of the rocks -which formed the sides of its inclosing walls, as well as its -lofty water-falls, were but barely noticed by Lt. Moore in his -report, to which allusion has been made in a previous chapter.</p> - -<p>Lt. Moore made no measurements, nor attempted to give -any specific descriptions. He only stated unadorned facts -and practical impressions. These, however, had in 1854 -gone out into the world, and the wonders of the place were -more generally known and appreciated by the literary and -scientific, than by those in its more immediate vicinity. -During the summer of 1855, Mr. J. M. Hutchings, editor -and publisher of “Hutchings’ California Magazine,” conceived -the idea of visiting the Calaveras “Big Trees” and -the Yosemite Valley. As a literary man he was aware that -these objects of wonder and curiosity would provide many -interesting articles for his periodical. He engaged the services -of a well-known artist of San Francisco, Mr. Thomas -Ayres, to provide sketches for his descriptive articles. He -first visited “The Big Trees” of Calaveras; at Coultersville -and Horse Shoe Bend, Mr. Alex. Stair and Wesley -Millard joined his party. Mr. Hutchings’ announcement -at Mariposa that he was on his way to visit “<i>their wonderful -valley</i>,” was considered as an indifferent joke by some; -others, who had heard of it in connection with the “Indian -war,” asked him if he was not afraid of the Indians; if it -was worth the risk to go there. Mr. Hutchings failed to -get much information from those of whom he made inquiries -at Mariposa. He finally interviewed Captain Boling, -who told him where he could procure a guide. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_304">304</span></p> - -<p>In anticipation of meeting with numerous difficulties on -the way, or for other reasons, he hired two guides and -started for the valley. The difficulties of the journey -vanished as he approached. The excitement of the trip -made the party forgetful of the fatigue and roughness of -the mountain journey.</p> - -<p>I met Stair and Millard,—who were especial friends of -mine,—not long after their return from this trip. They -were very enthusiastic on the subject of the Yosemite. The -enthusiastic descriptions given by the Hutchings party, on -its return, aroused the curiosity of the people, staggered the -skeptics, and silenced the croakers. Not long afterwards, -two parties visited it; one from Sherlocks and the other -from Mariposa. With the party from Sherlocks, were the -Mann brothers, who afterwards built a trail from Mariposa -to the valley. They commenced it in the fall of that year, -1855. Mr. Hutchings’ publications and lithographic illustration -of the Yosemite, or highest fall, served to advertise -the attractions. From this period may be dated the commencement -of the visits of tourists. His influence has -aided materially in affording improved facilities of access to -it, and in providing for the comfort of visitors. The interest -growing out of Mr. Hutchings’ visit to the Yosemite, -together with the rumored prospect that Fremont & Co. -were about to do something with the “Mariposa Estate,” -aroused the energy of local capitalists, and encouraged the -advent of settlers and miners. Another company was organized -to bring water from the foot of the valley into the -“dry diggings.” The limited supply from the South Fork, -it was thought, would be insufficient for the prospective demand. -Sufficient inducements having been offered to warrant -the undertaking, Mr. George K. Peterson, an engineer -by profession, and myself, joined in making the necessary -survey. We leveled two lines down through the cañon, below -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_305">305</span> -the Yosemite, on to the divide of the South Fork. To -cross the South Fork without expending too much altitude, -we found a long tunnel would be required, besides a suspension -of over 800 feet.</p> - -<p>This, for a time, discouraged a continuance of the survey. -We returned to Mariposa and frankly reported the results -of our work and explained the difficulties of the route to -those who were most interested in the project. For certain -reasons it was deemed advisable to complete the survey between -the branches of the river; when it was thought that -some equitable arrangement could be made with the South -Fork Company for a union of interests in case of sale. -The Yosemite Company proposed to convey water over or -near the same route as the other, and also to supply water -to the miners on the north side of the Merced. By this -stroke of policy, it was supposed that a <i>legal</i> division of -water could be obtained, that the New Yorkers (Fremont & -Co.) would only be too glad to pay for. I did not feel sanguine -in the success of this scheme, and so expressed myself. -My experience in the cañon with Peterson taught me that -an equivalent in cash, which was offered for my services -(and which I accepted), was better than any speculative interest -<i>in Spain</i>, or even New York. The survey was accordingly -recommenced. Four of the company put up the -body of a house in the valley. This was the first house -ever erected there. It was of white cedar “<i>puncheons</i>,” -plank split out of logs. The builders of it supposed that a -claim in the valley would doubly secure the water privileges. -We made this building our headquarters; covering -the roof with our tents. We continued work on this survey -until late in November; and until the falling snow -rendered the hillside work most difficult; we then returned -to Mariposa.</p> - -<p>During this survey, while exploring the dividing ridges of -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_306">306</span> -the Merced river and the South Fork, our party ran on to -an encampment of the wretched Yosemites; mostly old -men and women. They had gone out on the extreme southwestern -point of the divide on the slope of the South Fork.</p> - -<p>As Peterson planted his instrument for an observation, -the Indians cried out in alarm, thinking no doubt that he -was aiming some infernal machine to destroy them. I approached -to see if I could recognize any of them as those -who had visited our store, before the murders of our men. -I also scrutinized their clothing; but their ragged garments -would not admit of even a surmise as to their quality or -pattern.</p> - -<p>Although I failed to recognize our visitors among these -miserable people; it was quite evident that I was known -to them. I asked “who it was that had killed the men at -our store?” They at first pretended not to understand me; -but seeing that they were not believed, one came forward, -and in a mixture of Spanish and Indian informed me that -it was the Tuolume Indians that were the criminals; while -they themselves (if not the cleanest) were certainly the best -Indians in the mountains. Upon being asked why they -were camped in such a place—without water, they said -they were at first afraid of our party and the glistening -instrument that had been aimed at them; but, that when -they saw we were measuring the ground, and marking the -trees, they were no longer alarmed, but were afraid of the -Monos, whom they said were still angry with them. I told -them that it was because of their treachery and dishonesty -that they had been made to suffer, and then left them in -their wretchedness.</p> - -<p>Quite early in the next year (1856), the survey for the -water supply was recommenced under instructions from -Colonel Fremont, and, under direction of his chief engineer, -Mr. J. E. Clayton, Mr. Peterson was placed in charge of the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_307">307</span> -field-work. This work was executed with great care, as on -its accuracy the estimates depended. They were to be made -by a very eminent engineer of the Erie Canal, upon whose -report, it was supposed, Wall street would be governed. -Peterson engaged me as his assistant in this survey. During -this season the Mann Brothers finished their trail to the -Yosemite, so that it was used by visitors. Hearing that -they had felled some immense trees and bridged the South -Fork, Mr. Peterson had hopes to reach the valley earlier in -the season by crossing the river at that place.</p> - -<p>On reaching the South Fork, where we supposed the -bridge to be we found that a large tree had been felled -across the stream with the design of forming the foundation -of a bridge, but it had fallen so low, or so near the water on -the opposite side, that a flood would be likely to sweep it -away, and it had, therefore, been abandoned. This was a -great disappointment to Mr. Peterson. As we could not -ford the stream, we would have to go into camp or wait for -the water to fall or go back, for the snow-clad ridges were -impassable. While Peterson was considering the matter, -I took an axe and sloped and notched the butt of the tree so -that I was able to get my horse, an intelligent animal, to -clamber up on the prostrate trunk; when, without difficulty, -I led him safely across and landed him on the other -side of the stream. We had two mules, whose natural timidity -caused them to hesitate before attempting to climb the -log, but their attachment for the horse, which they had seen -safely cross, with some <i>persuasion</i> effected with a stout cudgel -counteracted their fears, and they too were safely led over.</p> - -<p>The tree was about six feet in diameter. Its cork-like -bark afforded sure footing for the animals. Peterson—very -much pleased—pronounced this the most primitive -bridge ever crossed by a pack-train, and declared that it -should be recorded as an original engineering feat. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_308">308</span></p> - -<p>While we were re-loading our animals the Mann Brothers -came down to us, as they said to learn how we had -crossed the rushing torrent; and were surprised to hear that -we had utilized the tree abandoned by them. They informed -us that they were constructing a bridge further up -the stream, which would be ready for crossing in a week or -two. We found no further difficulty in reaching the valley. -Not long after we had gone into camp, and commenced -our survey again, visitors began to come into the -valley. Several gentlemen from San Francisco visited our -camp, one of whom I remember was the Rev. Doctor Spier, of -the Chinese Mission, in San Francisco. Mr. Peterson had, -upon my solicitation, “roded up” to the level of the Pohona -Fall, and made as accurate an estimate of the probable -height of El Capitan as could be done without the aid of -his transit. Mr. Peterson was therefore able to enlighten -some of the gentlemen from “the Bay,” as to the approximate -height of El Capitan and other prominent objects. -Mr. Peterson afterwards made more accurate measurements -of heights.</p> - -<p>I have no doubt that the four gentlemen referred to as living -in the valley, noticed in the note on page 18, in “Whitney’s -Yosemite Guide Book,” were of our party, who had -notified the public of their claim and intention to make -that their residence. The house erected, however, was -never honored with a roof, and the material of which it was -composed, soon disappeared, after we ceased to occupy it. -The difficulties developed by our survey, disheartened the -claimants. The claim rights, as well as the claim shanty -were alike abandoned.</p> - -<p>The first white woman that ever visited the Yosemite -was a Madame Gautier, the housekeeper at the Franklin -House, Mariposa. A few days afterwards Mrs. Johnny -Neil, of Mariposa, and Mrs. Thompson, of Sherlocks, came -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_309">309</span> -up. Their courage and endurance should certainly be made -a matter of record. The next ladies to visit the place were -of the party with Mr. Denman, of “Denman’s High School,” -in San Francisco. After this it ceased to be a novelty to -see ladies in the Yosemite. Mr. Denman published an account -of his trip. His communication was a well written -and instructive article. It was the <i>first</i> description that -gave the public any definite idea of the magnitude of the -scenery, or any accuracy of measurements of the heights of -the cliffs and water-falls. I was present when Mr. Peterson -gave to Mr. Denman the results of his observations, and -consequent estimate of heights. I was amused at Mr. -Denman’s expressions of surprise, and his anxious but -polite inquiries of Mr. Peterson if he was <i>sure</i> his angles -had been correctly marked. Peterson colored slightly at -the doubt implied of his professional skill, but with unusual -politeness and apparent cheerfulness offered to make a resurvey -of El Capitan or any other prominent cliff that -Mr. Denman would select for measurement.</p> - -<p>The offer was quickly accepted, and a new determination -of several points of interest were made.</p> - -<p>From the notes taken, each of the gentlemen computed -the heights.</p> - -<p>Mr. Peterson soon figured up the result of his work, and -patiently awaited the result of Mr. Denman’s, before he announced -his own.</p> - -<p>After figuring for sometime, Mr. Denman expressed a -belief that he had made a grand mistake somewhere in his -calculations, for he had made the result more than the previous -estimates and above all seeming probabilities. They -then compared figures and found but little difference in -their heights. Mr. Denman again worked up the notes, and -was convinced of their correctness and reported his conclusions -in his descriptions. The first house erected in the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_310">310</span> -valley for the accommodation of visitors was <i>commenced</i> -in 1856, by Mr. Walworth and Mr. Hite. It, was made of -“boards” rived out of pine logs. The site was that of -our old camp-ground of 1851, or a little above it, and nearly -opposite the Yosemite Fall.</p> - -<p>The next season a blue canvas-covered building was put -up just above. In 1858, Mr. Beardsley joined with Mr. -Hite, and erected a wooden house. This was afterwards -kept by Mr. Peck, Mr. Longhurst, and after 1864, by Mr. -Hutchings. Other accommodations for the public were -also opened, a popular one of which was a house kept -by G. F. Leidig, known to tourists as “Leidig’s Hotel.” The -first permanent resident, was J. C. Lamon, who made a -claim in the upper part of the valley in 1860, and who -occupied it both summer and winter for many years. The -other residents in the valley only remaining during the -season of tourists visits. Before hotel accommodations -were provided for the public, visitors to the valley carried -with them camp equipage and supplies according to the -necessities and inclinations of the parties interested.</p> - -<p>In order to dispense with a retinue of camp followers, and -the expense of numerous employees, the duties of camp life -were ordinarily divided among the party, without regard to -wealth, rank, or station in life. It was usually made a point -of honor, to at least try to share in the necessary laborious -requirements of their associates; although the various -duties were not always assigned to the capacity of the -individual, or to his adaptation to the position. The blunders -were as often sources of amusement, as serious inconveniences. -As illustration, I will narrate an incident with a -party of excursionists in those early days.</p> - -<p>By invitation, I met and accompanied a party from San -Francisco on a visit to the Yosemite. The gentlemen composing -the party, were Mr. Thomas Ayers, Mr. Forbes, of -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_311">311</span> -the firm of Forbes & Babcock, agents of Pacific Mail -S. S. Co.; Mr. Holladay, of same company; Mr. Easton, -of San Francisco, and Col. Riply, of the Commodore -Perry expedition, who, I believe, afterwards became General -Riply, Chief of Ordinance, U. S. A. Mr. Ayers was -the artist who accompanied Mr. Hutchings on his first visit -to the valley. He was the first to sketch any of the -scenery of the Yosemite. He was afterwards employed -in sketching by the Harpers, of New York. While so -employed, he was lost off the Farrilones Islands by the capsizing -of the schooner “Laura Beven.” Mr. Ayers was a -gentleman in feeling and manners. His ingenuity and -adaptability to circumstances, with his uniform kindness -and good nature, made him the very soul of the party.</p> - -<p>This party spent several days in the valley. On the last -day, it was proposed to have a grand dinner. To make the -event a memorable one, it was decided that each one should -have a representative dish of his own individual preparation. -We had a plentiful supply of canned meats, fruits, -etc., but it was proposed that our bill of fare should consist -of game and fish. Trout, grouse and quail, were then -tolerably abundant. To guard against a possibility of failure -to supply a full variety, Colonel Riply volunteered to provide -a dish of beans of his own cooking, which he thought -he was prepared to furnish. The cooking of beans was -theoretically familiar to him, the Colonel said, from having -frequently observed the process among his soldiers. He -admitted that, practically, he had never tested the theory, -but he felt confident that he would not disgrace his position -as a soldier in the cooking of such a prominent army dish. -From my knowledge of their haunts, it was assigned to me -to provide the game, while Messrs. Easton, Ayers and Holladay, -engaged to supply the spread with trout. Mr. Forbes -engaged to perform the duty of supplying wood and water,—a -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_312">312</span> -very important office, he claimed, the very foundation -of all our endeavors. I left the Colonel busy on his part of -the programme, and soon acquired a liberal supply of grouse -and quail.</p> - -<p>As I came into camp from my hunt, my nostrils were -saluted with the smell of burnt beans. Mr. Forbes had supplied -the fire most liberally, and was resting from his labors -to the <i>windward</i>. I removed the kettle and inquired -for the Colonel. Mr. Forbes replied that “Col. Riply went -down where the fishermen are engaged, and has been gone -an hour or more; no doubt he has forgotten his beans.” I -hastened to repair damages as far as I was able by removing -those not scorched from off the burnt ones. After scouring -the kettle with sand, I succeeded in getting them over -a slow fire before Col. Riply returned. He soon came -hurriedly into camp, and after taking a look at his cookery, -pronounced them all right, but said he had <i>almost</i> forgotten -that he was on duty as cook.</p> - -<p>Observing that he was about to charge the kettle with an -undue proportion of salt pork, I again saved the beans, -this time from petrifaction, by remarking that their <i>delicacy</i> -would be enhanced by parboiling the pork.</p> - -<p>With my guardianship, the Colonel’s dish was brought -on to the board in a very good condition for eating, and all -united in bestowing upon him unstinted praise for providing -so palatable an addition to our feast. Col. Riply regretted -that he had not provided <i>more</i>, but explained by -saying that he had supposed <i>they would swell more while -cooking</i>.</p> - -<p>The secret of the <i>burnt beans</i>, was known to all the others, -but was kept inviolate from the Colonel. He was unconscious -of the joke, and bestowed more attention on this -standard New England dish than he did upon the delicious -trout and game. Our dinner was finished in bumpers to -Colonel Riply as <i>chef de cuisine</i>. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_313">313</span></p> - -<p>During the survey of the year, in addition to measurements, -we gave some attention to the geological features -of the country we were passing over. We found that the -cañon below the Yosemite is about six miles long, and so -filled with vast granite bowlders and talus, that it is impossible -for any but the agile and sure-footed to pass safely -through. The river has to be crossed and recrossed so many -times, by jumping from bowlder to bowlder, where the water -goes whirling and dashing between—that if the rocks be -moss-grown or slimy, as they may be outside of continuous -current—one’s life is endangered. During our survey through -this cañon, in the month of November, 1855, we failed to get -through in one day on our preliminary survey, and were -compelled to camp without food or blankets, only sheltered -from a storm—half snow, half rain—by an overhanging -rock. The pelting mountain storm put out our fires, as it -swept down the cañon, and baffled all our attempts to kindle -a new flame.</p> - -<p>The fall through the cañon is so great, that none but the -largest bowlders remain in the current. Some of these immense -rocks are so piled, one upon another, as to make falls -of nearly one hundred feet. The fall for the entire distance -is about fifteen hundred feet. Notwithstanding the fall is -so great in so short a distance, advantage may be taken of -the configuration of the walls on either side to construct a -railroad up through the cañon into the valley, upon a grade -and trestle, that may be made practicable. This will, of -course, cost money, but it will probably be done. By tunneling -the divide and spanning the South Fork with a -bridge, a narrow-gauge road could very readily be built -that would avoid the necessity of going <i>entirely</i> through -the cañon. This could be accomplished most economically -by trestling over the talus—at a favorable point—high -enough to obtain and preserve a suitable grade, until the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_314">314</span> -sloping mountains below can be reached, when the line can -be run without difficulty to the most favorable point of -crossing the divide and the South Fork.</p> - -<p>The obstructions from snow, encountered in a winter trip -to the valley, would by this route, be entirely avoided. Beside, -the distance would be somewhat lessened. By rail and -stage it is now about 225 miles from San Francisco.</p> - -<p>After emerging from the cañon, with its precipitous -granite cliffs and water falls, the entire character of the river’s -bed and banks are changed. The cliffs have now all disappeared -with the granite, and although the steep high mountain -divides encroach hard upon the river; high bars or low -flats continue on down to the mouth of the South Fork on -one side or the other, and then the flats rise higher to the -plains.</p> - -<p>The fall of the Merced river from the foot of the cañon to -the valley of the San Joaquin, averages about thirty-five -feet to the mile as estimated by Mr. Peterson.</p> - -<p>The outcroppings from the rocky divides below the cañon, -are porphyritic, metamorphic, and trappean rocks, silicious -limestone, gneiss, green stone, quartz and several varieties -of slate. At a point on the left bank of the Merced, near -the plain, there is an outcropping of very good limestone, -and it is also found, at one point in the Yosemite.</p> - -<p>The quartz lodes drained by the Merced river, especially -those of Marble Springs, Gentry’s gulch and Maxwells creek, -bore a good reputation in early days; and as the drainage -may be made complete, no difficulty in working them need -be encountered. In some cases, the more prominent lodes, -maintain their general direction and thickness (seldom richness) -on both sides of the Merced; as, for instance, the -celebrated Carson vein. This vein outcrops at the Peña -Blanca, near Coultersville, and again south of the Merced -river, on a spur running down from Mount Bullion. Here -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_315">315</span> -the vein is known as the Johnson Lode, and is divided into -the Pine Tree and Josephine sections. These were made -famous as the subject of a legal dispute, and were occupied -by opposing and armed forces in the interest of “The -Merced Mining Company,” on the one side, and Col. Fremont -and his associates on the other.</p> - -<p>This lode was discovered in the winter of 1850-’51, by a -progressive Virginia liberal, named B. F. Johnson, familiarly -known as “Quartz Johnson.”</p> - -<p>His discoveries led to the investment of millions of capital -in mining enterprises, and if the share-holders of Mariposa -Stock have not yet realized upon their investments, it -cannot be for want of material; but, I must return to my -subject. After having completed the survey of this year, -1856, and having interests at Marble Springs, I joined with -George W. Coulter, of Coultersville, and other citizens in -constructing what became known as “<i>The Coultersville Free -Trail</i>.” We thought the scheme advisable, but the “<i>general -public</i>” thought the trail a little too progressive for the -wants of Coultersville, and the burden of construction was -left to be borne by a few. I never realized any return from -this investment. This trail was well located, and considering -the amount expended, a comparatively easy one, for the -trip to and from the valley was made with comfortable ease.</p> - -<p>The trail completed this year by the Mann brothers required -greater labor, and was not as good a route, but the -views of the Yosemite from their trail, were the best. The -Mann brothers did not find theirs a paying investment. They -never realized their expenditures, and eventually sold the -trail at a loss.</p> - -<p>In locating the Coultersville trail, little or no aid was -afforded me by the Indian trails that existed at that time; -for horses had not seemingly been taken into the valley on -the north side, and the foot trails used by the Indians left -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_316">316</span> -no traces in the loose granite soil of the higher ridges, but -what were soon obliterated by the wash from the melting -snow. Where trails were found, they had been purposely -run over ground impassable to horses, and they were, consequently, -unavailable for our use. Through liberal aid from -the “Empire State Mining Company,” located at their quartz -lode near the Marble Springs, Mr. Barton and myself had -built a wagon road from Coultersville to Bull Creek. This -road afforded a good commencement for the Yosemite trail.</p> - -<p>The first encampment reached after leaving Bull creek, -was “Deer Flat,” so named by us from having startled a -small drove, as we went into camp here. One of the deer -was shot, and afforded an addition to our camp supplies.</p> - -<p>The next camp named was “Hazel Green,” from the number -of hazel bushes growing near a beautiful little meadow.</p> - -<p>Our next move was to “Crane Flat.” This name was -suggested by the shrill and startling cry of some sand-hill -cranes we surprised as they were resting on this elevated -table. Going from this camp, we came to what I finally -called “Tamarack Flat,” although the appealing looks of -the grizzlies we met on their way through this pass to the -Tuolumne, caused me to hesitate before deciding upon the -final baptism; the Grizzlies did not stay to urge any claim, -and being <i>affectionately</i> drawn to the trees, we named the -camp “Tamarack Flat.” From this flat I blazed out two -trails, the lower one for early, the upper for later use; as -from this point the snow remains upon the upper trail until -quite late; and although much nearer, the snow renders it -difficult to travel in the early part of the season. From -“Tamarack Flat” to the edge of the valley is but little -more than three miles. The whole distance from Coultersville -being 41½ miles as stated by Prof. Whitney.</p> - -<p>With but little fatigue to one accustomed to the saddle, -the trip <i>down</i> to Coultersville or to Mariposa was made in -a day. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_317">317</span></p> - -<p>The wagon roads now opened, are calculated to avoid the -deep snow that delays the use of higher trails, or roads, -until later in the season; but one traveling by these routes, -loses some of the grandest views to be had of the High -Sierras and western ranges of hills and mountains; on the -old Coultersville Trail, or by way of the old Mariposa -Trail. In winter or early spring, in order to avoid the snow, -visitors are compelled to take the route of the lowest altitude. -The route by Hite’s cove is called but thirty-two -miles from Mariposa to the valley; while that by Clark’s, on -the South Fork, has been usually rated at about forty-two -miles. Where the time can be spared, I would suggest that -what is called “the round trip” be made; that is, go by -one route and return by another; and a “<i>Grand Round</i>” -trip will include a visit to the “High Sierra:” going by one -<i>divide</i> and returning by another.</p> - -<p>As to guides and accommodating hosts, there will -always be found a sufficient number to meet the increasing -wants of the public, and the enterprise of these gentlemen -will suggest a ready means of becoming acquainted with -their visitors. Soon, no doubt, a railroad will be laid into -the valley, and when the “<i>iron horse</i>” shall have ridden -over all present obstacles, a new starting point for summer -tourists will be built up in the Yosemite; that the robust -lovers of nature may view the divine creations that will -have been lost to view in a Pullman. The exercise incident -to a summer <i>lounge</i> in the “High Sierras,” will restore -one’s vigor, and present new views to the eyes of the curious; -while those with less time or strength at their disposal, -will content themselves with the beauties and pleasures of -the valley.</p> - -<p>The passes and peaks named in Prof. Whitney’s guide-book -are only the more prominent ones; for turn the eyes -along the course of the Sierra Nevada in a northerly or -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_318">318</span> -southerly direction at the head of Tuolumne, Merced, San -Joaquin, King’s, Kah-we-ah or Kern rivers, and almost -countless peaks will be seen, little inferior in altitude to -those noted in his table.</p> - -<p>The highest of these peaks, Mount Whitney, is, according -to Prof. Whitney, at least 200 feet higher than any -measured in the Rocky Mountains by the topographers of -the Hayden survey. A writer in the Virginia (Nevada) <i>Enterprise</i> -says: “Whitney stands a lordly creation amid a -rugged and grand company of companion peaks, for his -nearest neighbor, Mount Tyndall, rises 14,386 feet, and -Mount Kah-we-ah, but a few miles off, is 14,000 feet.” -Whitney affords “the widest horizon in America; a dome -of blue, immeasurable, vast sweeps of desert lowlands, -range on range of mighty mountains, grand and eloquent; -grace, strength, expansion, depth, breadth, height, all -blended in one grand and awful picture. And as the eye -takes in these features, a sense of soaring fills the mind, -and one seems a part of the very heavens whose lofty places -he pierces. The breadth and compass of the world grows -upon the mind as the mighty distances flow in upon the -view like waves of the sea<span class="nowrap">....</span> The best that -can be said or written but suggests; the eye alone can -lead the mind up to a true conception of so mighty and -marvelous a group of wonders.”</p> - -<p>It is true that one standing upon the dividing ridges of -the Rio Grande, Arkansas, Colorado or Platte, is charmed -by the views presented of far reaching plains and noble -mountains, but it is doubtful if any one view can be found -in North America so grand and thrillingly sublime as may -be seen in the Sierra Nevadas. The scenery of the Yellow -Stone and of the Colorado canyon have characteristic wonders -that are <i>sui generis</i>; but those localities are not desirable -for continuous occupation. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_319">319</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XX">CHAPTER XX.</h2> - -<h3>Golden Theories and Glaciers.</h3> - -<p>The many inquiries that the author has received concerning -his views upon the gold deposits of California, -has induced him to add this chapter to his work.</p> - -<p>It has been said by an earnest and astute observer, that -“The cooled earth permits us no longer to comprehend -the phenomena of the primitive creation, because the fire -which pervaded it is extinguished,” and again that “There -is no great foundation (of truth), which does not repose -upon a legend.” There has been a tradition among the -California Indians, that the Golden Gate was opened by -an earthquake, and that the waters that once covered the -great plain of the Sacramento and San Joaquin basins -were thus emptied into the ocean. This legendary geology -of the Indians is about as good and instructive as some -that has been taught by professors of the science, and as -scarcely any two professors of geology agree in their theories -of the origin and distribution of the gold in California, -I have thought it probable that a few <i>unscientific</i> -views upon the subject will interest my readers.</p> - -<p>The origin of the gold found in California seems to me -to have been clearly volcanic. The varying conditions -under which it is found may be accounted for by the varying -heat and force of the upheaval, the different qualities -of the matrix or quartz that carried the gold and filled the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_320">320</span> -fissures of the veins or lodes, the influence that resistance -of the inclosing walls may have exerted when it was slight -or very great, and finally the disintegrating influences of -air, water, frost and attrition of the glaciers, and the deposition -in water.</p> - -<p>The theories of aqueous deposit (in the lodes) and of electrical -action, do not satisfy my understanding, and I go -back in thought to the ten years of observation and practical -experience in the gold mines, and to the problems that -were then but partially solved. Looking at California as it -is to-day, it will be conceded that its territory has been -subjected to distinct geological periods, and those periods -greatly varying in their force in different parts of the State. -Within the principal gold-bearing region of California, and -especially along the line of or near the Carson vein or lode, -coarse gold has been found, and in such large masses, free -of quartz, as to force the conviction upon the mind that -the gold so found had been thrown out <i>through</i> and <i>beyond</i> -its matrix into a bed of volcanic ashes, very nearly assuming -the appearance that lead might assume when melted and -thrown in bulk upon an ash heap. Where the resistance -was great, as when thrown through wall rocks of gneiss, or -green stone, the liquefaction of the quartz seems to have -been more complete, and the specific gravity of the gold -being so much greater than that of the quartz, its momentum, -when in large quantities, carried it out beyond its matrix, -leaving the more diffused particles to be held suspended -in the fast cooling quartz, or to settle into “pockets,” or -small fissures.</p> - -<p>Prof. Le Conte says: “The invariable association of -metaliferous veins with metamorphism demonstrates the -agency of heat.” Experiments of Daubre and others prove -that water at 750° Fahr. reduces to a pasty condition nearly -all rocks. Deposits of silica in a gelatinous form, that -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_321">321</span> -hardens on cooling, may be seen at some of the geysers of -the Yellowstone; the heat, no doubt, being at a great depth. -Quartz, like glass and lava, cools rapidly <i>externally</i> when -exposed to air, or a cool surface, and would very readily -hold suspended any substance <i>volatilized</i>, or crudely mixed -into its substance. Its difficult <i>secondary</i> fusion is no obstacle -to a belief in the capacity of heat under great pressure, -to account for the phenomena that may be observed -in the gold mines. Ashes derived from lavas have been -found rich in crystalline substances. Crystals and microliths, -and pyrites in cubes are, no doubt, of volcanic origin. -The eruptions of moderate character seem to be the result -of igneous fusion, while those of an explosive type are probably -aquæ-igneous.</p> - -<p>It is altogether probable from experiments tried by Stanislas -Muenier and others, that the sudden removal of pressure -is a sufficient cause of superheated water and mineral -substances flashing into steam and lava. The geysers are -evidently formed by varying temperature and interruption -of flow by removal of pressure. Mr. Fanques, in an article -in the <i>Popular Science Monthly</i> for August, 1880, says: -“Discovery of microliths enclosed in volcanic rocks is a -proof of immediate formation of crystals.”</p> - -<p>The phenomena attending the recent eruptions in Java -demonstrate the incredible force and chemical effects of superheated -steam. Modern researches and experiments in -mechanical and chemical forces have greatly modified the -views once entertained by geologists, and I think that it -will now be conceded that repeated volcanic disturbances, -taken in connection with the action of glaciers, will account -for most, if not all, the phenomena discoverable in the -gold fields and mountains of California. As a rule, gold-bearing -veins in clay or talcose slates have the gold more -evenly diffused than those found in the harder rocks, where -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_322">322</span> -pockets of crystals, pyrites and gold will most likely be -found. If gold is found in seams or masses it will be very -free from impurities, and the quartz itself will be most -likely white and vitreous. When gold is found in or near -to a lode that has been decomposed, it will be found porous -and ragged, but if it has been deposited some distance from -its source it will be more or less rounded and swedged by -contact with the stones and gravel that were carried with -it by the stream of water or ice that conveyed it to its -placer. In the beds of the ancient and more modern rivers -the gold is much more worn than that found in the ravines -or gulches, and the coarser gold will be found at the bottom, -the scale gold in the gravel above, and the fine or -flour gold in the mixture of clay, gravel and sand nearer -the surface. The scale gold, no doubt, has been beaten by -repeated blows of stones brought in contact with it while -moving in the bed of the stream, and the flour gold is that -reduced by the continual attrition of the moving mass -upon the gold.</p> - -<p>Prof. Le Conte says: “There are in many parts of California -two systems of river beds—an old and a new<span class="nowrap">....</span> -The old, or dead, river system runs across the present drainage -system in a direction far more southerly; this is especially -true of northern members of the system. Farther -south the two systems are more nearly parallel, showing -less movement in that region. These old river beds are -filled with drift gravel, and often covered with lava.” The -lava referred to is relatively of modern origin, and the -molten streams have in many instances covered the ancient -streams, and in others cut them in twain. The “Blue Lead” -is a very old river bed that has been the principal source of -supply of the placer gold of the northern mines, and it -must have existed as a river long anterior to the more -modern upheavals that disturbed its course by forming -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_323">323</span> -mountain torrents to rend its barriers and cut across its -channel. That channel crosses some of the present tributaries -of the Sacramento and San Joaquin and contains -fossil remains of trees, plants and fruits not now indigenous -to California.</p> - -<p>The well rounded boulders and pebbles found in the beds -of these ancient rivers render it probable that they were -of considerable length, and that they may have been the -channels of very ancient glaciers. It is also probable that -the region covered by glaciers at different epochs is much -more extensive than has been generally supposed. To me -it appears probable, that during some of the eras of formation, -they may have stretched across the entire continent. -I have not space to give in detail the evidences of glacial -action, but will simply state that <i>remains</i> of glaciers may -be seen by an observing eye at intervals from the Atlantic -to the Pacific; in Minnesota and in the Rocky Mountains, -they are especially abundant. Prof. Le Conte says: “The -region now occupied by the Sierra range was a marginal -sea bottom, receiving abundant sediments from a continent -to the east. At the end of the Jurassic, this line of enormously -thick off-shore deposits yielded to horizontal thrust, -was crushed together and swollen up into the Sierra range. -All the ridges, peaks and canyons, all that constitutes the -grand scenery of these mountains are the result of an almost -inconceivable subsequent erosion.”</p> - -<p>I have no doubt of the truth of this theory of formation -as it relates to the Sierra Nevada ranges as they exist to-day, -for the intrusion of the granite into the slate formations -suggests a force far greater than can be ascribed to volcanic -action alone. The <i>previous</i> condition of the “continental -mass” can not be so well imagined; yet reasoning -from what we know of the present condition of the Sierras we -may with propriety assume that great changes had occurred -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_324">324</span> -in the territory embracing the Sierras Nevada long prior -to their upheaval. The changes that have occurred since -are too abundant and enduring to require more than a reference -to the localities. The “glacier pavements” of the -Sierras are so conspicuous that, as Mr. John Muir says: -“Even dogs and horses gaze wonderingly at the strange -brightness of the ground, and smell it, and place their feet -cautiously upon it, as if afraid of falling or sinking.” These -glacier-smoothed rocks “are simply flat or gently undulating -areas of solid granite which present the unchanged -surface upon which the ancient glaciers flowed, and are -found in the most perfect condition in the sub-alpine -region, at an elevation of from 8,000 to 9,000 feet. Some -are miles in extent, only interrupted by spots that have -given way to the weather, while the best preserved portions -are bright and stainless as the sky, reflecting the sunbeams -like glass, and shining as if polished every day, notwithstanding -they have been exposed to corroding rains, dew, -frost and snow for thousands of years.”</p> - -<p>This statement of Mr. Muir will especially apply to the -“glistening rocks” at the sources of the Merced and Tuolumne -rivers, in view on this trail through the Mono Pass. -The evidences of past glacial action in polishing the domes, -mountains and valleys <i>above</i> the Yosemite valley, are too -undeniable for controversy, but how much of the Yosemite -itself may have been produced by glacial action will probably -always remain a theme for discussion among geologists.</p> - -<p>Prof. Samuel Kneeland, the well known author of “Wonders -of the Yosemite,” in a letter to me upon the subject, -says: “I think there can be no doubt that the valley was -filled, and 1,000 feet above, by ice—that while the <i>mass -above</i>, moved, that in the valley, conforming to its configuration, -was comparatively stationary, lasting much longer -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_325">325</span> -than the first, gradually melting to a lake, now represented -by the Merced river.</p> - -<p>“I agree with Prof. Whitney that the valley was the result -of a subsidence, long anterior to the glacial epoch, and -that the valley itself, except upon its edges and upper sides, -has not been materially modified by the glacier movement.” -Prof. J. D. Whitney, in his geological report says: “The -Yosemite valley is a unique and wonderful locality; it is -an exceptional creation; <span class="nowrap">...</span> cliffs absolutely vertical, -like the upper portions of the Half Dome and El Capitan, -and of such immense height as these, are, so far as we -know, to be seen nowhere else<span class="nowrap">....</span> How has this unique -valley been formed, and what are the geological causes -which have produced its wonderful cliffs, and all the other -features which combine to make this locality so remarkable? -These questions we will endeavor to answer, as well -as our ability to pry into what went on in the deep-seated -regions of the earth in former geological ages will permit.” -Mr. Whitney explicitly states his belief that most of the -great canyons and valleys have resulted from aqueous denudation -and erosion and cites the cutting through the -lava of Table Mountain at Abbey’s Ferry on the Stanislaus -river as proof, and, continuing, to the exception, says: “It -is sufficient to look for a moment at the vertical faces of El -Capitan and the Bridal Veil Rock turned down the valley, -or away from the direction in which the eroding forces -must have acted, to be able to say that aqueous erosion -could not have been the agent employed to do any such -work<span class="nowrap">....</span> Much less can it be supposed that the peculiar -form of the Yosemite is due to the erosive action of -ice<span class="nowrap">....</span> Besides, there is no reason to suppose, or at -least no proof, that glaciers have ever occupied the valley, -or any portion of it<span class="nowrap">....</span> So that this theory, based -on entire ignorance of the whole subject, may be dropped -without wasting any more time upon it. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_326">326</span></p> - -<p>“The theory of erosion not being admissible to account -for the formation of the Yosemite valley, we have to fall -back on some one of those movements of the earth’s crust -to which the primal forms of mountain valleys are due. -The forces which have acted to produce valleys are complex -in their nature, and it is not easy to classify the forms, which -have resulted from them, in a satisfactory manner.” After -describing the generally received theories of mountain and -valley formations, Mr. Whitney says: “We conceive that, -during the process of upheaval of the Sierra, or possibly at -some time after that had taken place, there was at the Yosemite -a subsidence of a limited area, marked by lines of -‘fault’ or fissure crossing each other somewhat nearly at -right angles. In other and more simple language, the bottom -of the valley sank down to an unknown depth, owing -to its support being withdrawn from underneath, during -some of those convulsive movements which must have attended -the upheaval of so extensive and elevated a chain, no -matter how slow we may imagine the process to have been. -Subsidence over extensive areas of portions of the earth’s -crust is not at all a new idea in geology, and there is -nothing in this peculiar application of it which need excite -surprise. It is the great amount of vertical displacement -for the small area implicated which makes this a peculiar -case; but it would not be easy to give any good reason why -such an exceptionable result should not be brought about -amid the complicated play of forces which the elevation of -a great mountain chain must set in motion. By the adoption -of the subsidence theory for the formation of the Yosemite, -we are able to get over one difficulty which appears -insurmountable to any other. This is the very small -amount of debris at the base of the cliffs, and, even at a few -points, its entire absence.” In the space allotted to this -chapter, I am able only to quote a few passages from Prof. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_327">327</span> -Whitney, but refer the curious to his recent work, “Climatic -Changes of Later Geological Times.”</p> - -<p>In contrast to the conclusions arrived at by Prof. Whitney, -I extract from Prof. Le Conte’s Elements of Geology, -pages 526 and 527, the following: “1st. During the epoch -spoken of (the glacial) a great glacier, receiving its tributaries -from Mount Hoffman, Cathedral Peaks, Mount Lyell -and Mount Clark groups, filled Yosemite valley, and -passed down Merced canyon. The evidences are clear -everywhere, but especially in the upper valleys, where the -ice action lingered longest. 2nd. At the same time tributaries -from Mount Dana, Mono Pass, and Mount Lyell -met at the Tuolumne meadows to form an immense glacier -which, overflowing its bounds a little below Soda springs, -sent a branch down the Ten-ie-ya canyon to join the -Yosemite glacier, while the main current flowed down the -Tuolumne canyon and through the Hetch-Hetchy valley. -Knobs of granite 500 to 800 feet high, standing in its pathway, -were enveloped and swept over, and are now left -round and polished and scored in the most perfect manner. -This glacier was at least 40 miles long and 1,000 feet -thick, for its stranded lateral-moraines may be traced so -high along the slopes of the bounding mountains.” In an -article by John Muir, published in the New York <i>Tribune</i>, -and kindly furnished me by Prof. Kneeland, will be seen -views differing from those of Prof. Whitney, but Mr. Muir -has spent long years of study upon the glacial summits of -the Sierras, and if an enthusiast, is certainly a close student -of nature. The paper was written to his friend Prof. -Kunkle, of Boston, who had views similar to his own. -Mr. Muir says: “I have been over my glacial territory, -and am surprised to find it so small and fragmentary. The -work of ancient ice which you and I explored, and which -we were going to christen ‘Glacial System of the Merced’ -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_328">328</span> -is only a few tiny topmost branches of one tree, in a vast -glacial forest.</p> - -<p>“All of the magnificent mountain truths that we read -together last Autumn are only beginning sentences in the -grand Sierra Nevada volume. The Merced ice basin was -bounded by the summits of the main range and by the -spurs which once reached to the summits, viz.: the Hoffman -and Obelisk ranges. In this basin not one island existed; -all of its highest peaks were washed and overflowed -by the ice—Starr King, South Dome and all. Vast ice -currents broke over into the Merced basin, and most of the -Tuolumne ice had to cross the great Tuolumne canyon.</p> - -<p>“It is only the vastness of the glacial pathways of this -region that prevents their being seen and comprehended at -once. A scholar might be puzzled with the English alphabet -if it was written large enough, and, if each letter was -made up of many smaller ones. The beds of those vast ice -rivers are veiled with forests and a network of tiny water -channels. You will see by the above sketch that Yosemite -was completely overwhelmed with glaciers, and they did -not come squeezing, groping down to the main valley by -the narrow, angular, tortuous canyons of the Ten-ie-ya, -Nevada or South canyons, but they flowed grandly and -directly above all of its highest domes, like a steady wind, -while their lower currents went mazing and swedging down -in the crooking and dome-blocked channels of canyons.</p> - -<p>“Glaciers have made every mountain form of this whole -region; even the summit mountains are only fragments of -their pre-glacial selves.</p> - -<p>“Every summit wherein are laid the wombs of glaciers -is steeper on its north than its south side, because of the -depth and duration of sheltered glaciers, above those exposed -to the sun, and this steepness between the north and -south sides of summits is greater in the lower summits, as -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_329">329</span> -those of the Obelisk group. This tells us a word of glacial -climate. Such mountains as Starr Ring, Cloud’s Rest, and -Cathedral Peak do not come under this general law because -their contours were determined by the ice which flowed -about and above them, but even among these inter-basin -heights we frequently find marked difference of steepness -between their north and south sides, because many of the -higher of these mountains and crests extending east and -west, continued to shelter and nourish fragmentary glacierets -long after the death of the main trunk to which -they belonged.</p> - -<p>“In ascending any of the principal streams of this region, -lakes in all stages of decay are found in great abundance, -gradually becoming younger until we reach the almost -countless gems of the summits with basins bright as -their crystal waters. Upon the Nevada and its branches, -there are not fewer than a hundred of these lakes, from a -mile to a hundred yards in diameter, with countless glistening -pondlets about the size of moons. Both the Yosemite -and the Hetch-Hetchy valleys are lake basins filled -with sand and the matter of morains easily and rapidly supplied -by their swift descending rivers from upper morains. -The mountains above Yosemite have scarce been touched -by any other denudation but that of ice. Perhaps all of -the post glacial denudation of every kind would not average -an inch in depth for the whole region.</p> - -<p>“I am surprised to find that water has had so little to do -with the mountain structure of this region. None of the -upper Merced streams give record of floods greater than -those of to-day. The small water channel, with perpendicular -walls, is about two feet in depth a few miles above the -Little Yosemite. The Nevada here, even in flood, never -was more than four or five feet in depth. Glacial striæ and -glacial drift, undisturbed on banks of streams but little -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_330">330</span> -above the present line of high water mark, is sufficient -proof.”</p> - -<p>The views entertained by Mr. Muir are, for the most -part, in consonance with my own. That the valley was -originally formed as supposed by Prof. Whitney I do not -doubt, but to suppose that the vast bodies of ice, stated by -Mr. Whitney to have existed at the sources of the Merced -river, could have halted in their glacial flow down the steep -declivities of its canyons, seems as absurd as to suppose -one entertaining opposite views “ignorant of the whole -subject.” As a matter susceptible of eternal proof, I will -state that in the canyon below the Yosemite there are existing -to-day, large, well rounded bowlders that I think a -geologist would say had been brought from above the valley; -and if so, water alone could scarcely have brought them -over the sunken bed of the valley, or if filled to its present -level of about thirty-five feet descent to the mile, the laws -that govern aqueous deposits would have left those huge -masses of rock far above their present location in the canyon. -Some of the bowlders referred to will weigh twenty -tons or more, and, in connection with flat or partially -rounded rocks fallen, probably, from the adjacent cliff, form -waterfalls in the middle of the canyon, of from fifty to one -hundred feet of perpendicular height. The fall through -the canyon averages over two hundred feet to the mile. -Well rounded bowlders of granite and other hard stones -may be seen for long distances below the Yosemite, on hillsides -and flats far above the present bed of the river, and, -in some instances, deposited with those bowlders, have -been found well rounded and swedged masses of gold. The -experiments and observations of Agassiz, Forbes and others, -render it probable that the valley of the Yosemite was filled -with ice, but that the upper surface moved more rapidly, -carrying down most of the material brought from mountains -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_331">331</span> -above the valley. The observations of Prof. Tyndall render -it almost certain that a glacier does not move as a rigid -mass or on its bed, but as a plastic substance, as asphalt for -instance.</p> - -<p>Partial liquefaction by pressure would enable a glacier -in the Yosemite to conform to the inequalities of its configuration, -and regelation would perhaps retard its flow -sufficiently to enable the more rapid moving surface and -center of the glacier to carry its burden on from above -without marking the lower portion of the inclosing walls, -as for instance, may be seen at Glacier Point. It has been -suggested that “the immense weight of ice that once filled -the Yosemite had an important part in the formation of it.” -This idea is untenable, because the valley must have -already been formed, in order for space to have existed for -“the immense weight of ice;” and unless the earth’s crust -under the valley was previously broken as suggested in the -able theory of Prof. Whitney, no possible weight of any -kind could exert a depressing influence upon the surface.</p> - -<p>If it were possible, for the reconciliation of geologists, -to believe that the subsidence in the valley occurred at -about the close of the glacial flow, thereby changing the -appearance of the inclosing walls, yet still leaving material -to fill the chasm, a great part of the mystery that will always -remain as one of the “Wonders of the Yosemite,” -would then disappear. As it is, we are compelled to believe, -not in miracles, but that the glacier that flowed over -the Yosemite was so great in depth as to leave, like some -deep sea or ocean, its bottom undisturbed by the tumultuous -aerial strife upon its surface.</p> - -<p>Now, those glacial heights have, at times, a solitude unutterly -profound! Not a bird or beast to break the stillness, -nor disturb the solemn charm. Nor does the Indian, -even, loiter on his way, but hastens on down to his mountain -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_332">332</span> -meadows or wooded valleys. There, if anywhere, the -poet’s idea can be realized, that:</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Silence is the heart of all things; sound the fluttering of its pulse,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Which the fever and the spasm of the universe convulse.<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Every sound that breaks the silence only makes it more profound,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Like a crash of deafening thunder in the sweet, blue stillness drowned<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Let thy soul walk softly in thee, as a saint in heaven unshod,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">For to be alone with silence, is to be alone with God.”<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="i_333" src="images/i_333.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">BIG TREE</p> - -<p class="copy">(Height, 325 feet; circumference, 100 feet.) -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_333">333</span></p></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XXI">CHAPTER XXI.</h2> - -<p class="caption">Big Trees of California or Sequoia Gigantea—Their Discovery and -Classification.</p> - -<p>In speaking of the discovery of the “<i>Big Trees</i>” of Calavaras, -Mr. Hutchings, in his “Scenes of Wonder and Curiosity,” -says that: “In the spring of 1852 Mr. A. T. Doud, a -hunter, was employed by the Union Water Company of -Murphy’s camp, Calavaras county, to supply the workmen -with fresh meat from the large quantity of game running -wild on the upper portion of their works. Having wounded -a bear, and while industriously following in pursuit, he -suddenly came upon one of those immense trees that have -since become so justly celebrated throughout the civilized -world.</p> - -<p>“So incredulous were Doud’s employers and companions, -when told of his discovery, that a ruse had to be resorted -to, to get men to go and view the trees.”</p> - -<p>Big trees in Mariposa county, were <i>first</i> discovered by -Maj. Burney, of North Carolina, first sheriff of Mariposa -county (after its organization), John Macauly of Defiance, -Ohio, and two others, whose names I have now forgotten. -The discovery was made in the latter part of October, 1849, -while in pursuit of some animals stolen by the Indians.</p> - -<p>The trees seen and described by Major Burney and his -party, were only a few scattering ones on the Fresno and -South Fork divide. The major spoke of the trees as a new -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_334">334</span> -variety of cedar, and when he gave the measurements that -he claimed the party had made with their picket-ropes tied -together, his auditors thought he was endeavoring to match -some “big yarns” told around our camp fire at the mouth -of the Merced river. Afterwards, while sheriff, the Major -indicated the locality and size of the trees, in reply to some -one’s description of the big yellow pine that lay prostrate on -what became the Yosemite trail, and when rallied a little -for his extravagance of statement, declared that though true, -he should not speak of the big trees again, for it was unpleasant -to be considered an habitual <i>joker</i>, or something -worse.</p> - -<p>I asked the major, seriously, about the trees he had described, -and he as seriously replied that he measured the -trees as stated, but did not regard them as very remarkable, -for he had seen accounts of even taller ones, if not larger, -that were growing in Oregon.<a id="FNanchor_20" href="#Footnote_20" class="fnanchor">20</a> In referring to these large -trees, they were spoken of as being on the ridge known to -us afterwards as the Black Ridge. The big trees of the -Kah-we-ah and Tu-le river regions, were first noticed by a -party of miners returning from the “<i>White River</i>” excitement -of 1854, but as these men were uncultured, and the -Calavaras grove was already known, no notice was taken by -“<i>The Press</i>” of the reports of these miners, who were regarded -by their friends as entirely truthful.</p> - -<p>It has been thought strange that no member of the -“Mariposa battalion” should have discovered any of the -big trees, but they did not.</p> - -<p>Among forests of such very large pines, cedar and fir trees, -as grow adjacent to and among the sequoia, an unusually -large tree would not probably have attracted much attention. -Had a grove of them, however, been discovered, the fact -would have been spoken of in the battalion. As the species -was not known to any of us at the time, even had any been -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_335">335</span> -seen, and even the pendant character of their branches -noticed, doubtless they would have been classed and spoken -of as “<i>cedar</i>.” I do not believe, however, that any of the -battalion ever <i>noticed</i> these trees, for the reason that strict -orders were given against straggling, and our explorations -were, for the most part, in the mountains <i>above</i> the line of -growth of the sequoia. While hunting for game, during -our first expeditions, the depth of snow forced the hunt below.</p> - -<p>A few of the Mariposa big trees were first brought into -notice by the discoveries of Mr. Hogg in the summer of -1855. The year previous, Mr. Hogg was in the employ of -Reynolds, Caruthers and myself, and proving an able assistant -and expert hunter, he was employed by our successors, -the “South Fork Ditch Company,” to supply them with -game. During one of his hunting expeditions, Mr. Hogg -discovered some sequoia on a branch of “Big Creek,” and -relating his discoveries to Mr. Galen Clark, Mr. Mann and -others, the exact locality was indicated, and became known. -During the autumn of this year (1855), other trees were -discovered by Mr. J. E. Clayton, while exploring and testing, -by barometrical measurements, the practicability of -bringing water from the branches of the San Joaquin to -increase the supply from the South Fork of the Merced. -Upon Mr. Clayton’s second visit, a few days later, I accompanied -him, and was shown his discoveries.</p> - -<p>About the first of June, 1856, Galen Clark and Milton -Mann discovered what has now become famous as the “Mariposa -Grove.” The next season Mr. Clark came upon two -smaller groves of sequoia in the near vicinity of the big -grove. Not long after, he discovered quite a large collection -at the head of the Fresno. This grove was visited two -days after its discovery by L. A. Holmes, of the “Mariposa -Gazette,” and Judge Fitzhugh, while hunting; and afterwards -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_336">336</span> -by Mr. Hutchings in 1859, accompanied by the discoverer, -Mr. Clark.</p> - -<p>The groves of big trees on the North and South Tule -rivers, said to contain thousands, were discovered in 1867, -by Mr. D’Henreuse, of the State Geological Survey. From -the foregoing statement concerning the <i>Sequoia</i>, or Big -Trees, and the well known fact of their easy propagation -and distribution over the whole civilized world, it is no -longer feared that the species is in any <i>immediate</i> danger -of becoming extinct.</p> - -<p>Upon the tributaries of the Kah-we-ah river, these trees -are converted by the mills into lumber, which is sold about -as cheap as pine. The lumber is much like the famous -red-wood of California, and is equally durable, though perhaps -not so easily worked. Although of the same genus as -the red-wood, the <i>species</i> is distinct, the “Big Trees” being -known as the Sequoia Gigantea, while the California red-wood -is known as the Sequoia Sempervirens. This statement -may seem unnecessary to the botanist, but the two -species are so frequently confounded in respectable eastern -periodicals, that the statement here is deemed proper. Besides -this, absurd fears have been expressed by those uninformed -of the facility with which these trees have been cultivated -in Europe and in this country, that the species will -soon become extinct.<a id="FNanchor_21" href="#Footnote_21" class="fnanchor">21</a> Professor Whitney says: “It is astonishing -how little that is really reliable is to be found in -all that has been published about big trees. No correct -statement of their distribution or dimensions has appeared -in print; and if their age has been correctly stated in one -or two scientific journals, no such information ever finds its -way into the popular descriptions of this tree, which are -repeated over and over again in contributions to newspapers -and in books of travel<span class="nowrap">....</span> No other plant -ever attracted so much attention or attained such a celebrity -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_337">337</span> -within so short a period<span class="nowrap">....</span> Seed were first -sent to Europe and to the Eastern States in 1853, and since -that time immense numbers have found their way to -market. They germinate readily, and it is probable that -hundreds of thousands of the trees (millions it is said) are -growing in different parts of the world from seed planted. -They flourish with peculiar luxuriance in Great Britain, -and grow with extraordinary rapidity<span class="nowrap">....</span> The -genus were named in honor of Sequoia or Sequoyah, a -Cherokee Indian of mixed blood, better known as George -Guess, who is supposed to have been born about 1770, and -who lived in Wills Valley, in the extreme northeastern -part of Alabama, among the Cherokees. He became known -to the world by his invention of an alphabet and written -language for his tribe<span class="nowrap">....</span></p> - -<p>The big tree is extremely limited in its range, even more -so than its twin brother, the red-wood. The latter is strictly -a coast-range or sea-board tree; the other, inland or exclusively -limited to the Sierra. Both trees are also peculiarly -Californian. A very few of the red-wood may be found -just across the border in Oregon, but the big tree has never -been found outside of California, and probably never will -be.” In a note Prof. Whitney says:</p> - -<p>“There are several <i>fossil</i> species of the <i>genus sequoia</i>.” -Also, “that the Calavaras Grove contains, as will be seen -in the table on page 125 (Whitney’s Yosemite Guide Book), -four trees over 300 feet high, the highest one measured in -the Mariposa Grove being 272 feet. The published statements -of the heights of these trees are considerably exaggerated, -as will be noticed, but our measurements can be -relied on as being correct. The Keystone State has the -honor of standing at the head, with 325 feet as its elevation, -and this is the tallest tree yet measured on this continent, -so far as our information goes.” -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_338">338</span></p> - -<p>“When we observe how regularly and gradually the trees -diminish in size from the highest down, it will be evident -that the stories told of trees having once stood in this grove -over 400 feet in height, are not entitled to credence. It is -not at all likely that any one tree should have overtopped all -the others by seventy-five feet or more. The same condition -of general average elevation and absence of trees very -much taller than any of the rest in the grove will be noticed -among the trees on the Mariposa grant, where, however, -there is no one as high as 300 feet.”</p> - -<p>The average height of the Mariposa trees is less than that -of the Calavaras Grove, while the circumference of the -largest is greater. Prof. Whitney measured the annual -growths of one of the largest of the Calavaras group that had -been felled, which he made out to be only about 1,300 -years old. The Professor says:</p> - -<p>“The age of the big trees is not so great as that assigned -by the highest authorities to some of the English yews. -Neither is its height as great, by far, as that of an Australian -species, the <i>eucalyptus amygdalina</i>, many of which -have, on the authority of Dr. Müller, the eminent government -botanist, been found to measure over 400 feet; one, indeed, -reaches the enormous elevation of 480 feet, thus overtopping -the tallest sequoia by 155 feet.</p> - -<p>“There are also trees which exceed the big trees in diameter, -as, for instance, the baobab (adansonia digitata), but -this species is always comparatively low, not exceeding -sixty or seventy feet in height, and much swollen at the -base.”</p> - -<p>Mr. Whitney concludes his chapter on the sequoia by -saying:</p> - -<p>“On the whole, it may be stated, that there is no known -tree which approaches the sequoia in grandeur; thickness -and height being both taken into consideration, unless it be -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_339">339</span> -the <i>eucalyptus</i>. The largest Australian tree yet reported, -is said to be eighty-one feet in circumference at four feet -from the ground. This is nearly, but not quite, as large as -some of the largest of the big trees of California.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="i_339" src="images/i_339.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">RIDING THROUGH THE TREE TRUNK.</p></div> - -<p>Prof. Whitney gives the measurement of the largest tree -in the Mariposa Grove as ninety-three feet seven inches, at -the ground, and sixty-four feet three inches at eleven feet -above. This tree is known as the “Grizzly Giant;” its two -diameters were, at the base, as near as could be measured, -thirty and thirty-one feet. This tree has been very much -injured by fire, no allowance for which was made. It is -probable that could the tree—and others like it—have -escaped the fires set by the Indians, to facilitate the gathering -of their annual supplies and the pursuit of game, exact -measurements would show a circumference of over 100 feet. -But, even as large as it is, its size does not at once impress -itself upon the understanding.</p> - -<p>There are nine or ten separate groves of “Big Trees,” in -California, and all lie upon the western slopes of the Sierra -Nevada at an altitude of from five to seven thousand feet -above the sea. Mr. A. B. Whitehall has given a very interesting -account of these in the Chicago <i>Tribune</i>, from -which I extract such portions as will best serve to interest -my readers.</p> - -<p>“The wood is soft, light, elastic, straight grained, and -looks like cedar. The bark is deeply corrugated, longitudinally, -and so spongy as to be used for pin cushions. The -branches seldom appear below 100 feet from the ground, -and shoot out in every direction from the trunk. The -leaves are of two kinds—those of the younger trees and the -lower branches of the larger set in pairs opposite each other -on little stems, and those growing on branches which have -flowered, triangular in shape, and lying close down to the -stem. The cones are remarkable for their diminutive size, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_340">340</span> -being not much larger than a hen’s egg, while the cones of -much smaller conifers are larger than pine-apples. The -seeds are short and thin as paper<span class="nowrap">....</span> The magnificent -proportions of the trees and the awful solitude of the -forest gives an almost sublime grandeur to this part of the -Sierra. The Tuolumne grove is situated almost due north -of the Merced, and is on the Big Oak Flat trail to the Yosemite. -There are about thirty trees in the group, and -they are excellent representatives of the sequoia family. -The Siamese Twins, growing from the same root and uniting -a few feet above the base, are thirty-eight feet in diameter -and 114 feet in circumference at the base. A unique piece -of road making is here seen. In the construction of the -highway for coaches and wagons to the Yosemite, the engineers -suddenly found themselves face to face with one of -these monster trees, and not choosing to build around it, -they cut through it, thus forming a tunnel, the like of -which can only be found in the Mariposa grove. The -diameter of the tree being over thirty feet, there remained -an abundance of material on each side of the cut to retain -the tree in a standing position, and the hole ten feet high -and twelve feet wide is sufficiently large to allow the passage -of any coach or team.”</p> - -<p>“In the South Park and Calaveras groves there are some -remarkable trees. One tree in the South Park grove will -hold forty persons in the hollow of its trunk; another has -sheltered sixteen horses. The four highest trees in the -Calaveras grove, are the Keystone State, 325 feet high, -Gen. Jackson, 319 feet, Mother of the Forest, 315 feet, and -the Daniel Webster of 307 feet high. The Husband and -Wife are a pair of trees gracefully leaning against each -other, 250 feet high, and each sixty feet in circumference. -The Hermit is a solitary specimen of great proportions; -the Old Maid, a disconsolate looking spinster, fifty-nine -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_341">341</span> -feet around, and the Old Bachelor, a rough, unkempt old -fellow nearly 300 feet in height. The Father of the -Forest is prostrate, hollow, limbless and without bark; -yet across the roots the distance is twenty-eight feet<span class="nowrap">....</span> -Into the tree a tourist can ride ninety feet on horseback. -One of the largest trees of the Calaveras grove was bored -down with pump augurs, and the stump smoothed off and -converted into a floor of a dancing hall. Thirty-two persons, -or four quadrille sets, have ample room to dance at -one time, and yet leave room for musicians and spectators.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="i_340" src="images/i_340.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">THE TUNNELLED TREE.</p></div> - -<p>I can give my readers no better idea of the solemn immensity -of the trees, than by again quoting Mr. Whitehall. -He says in conclusion: “Although it was then June, yet -the eternal snows of the mountains were everywhere around -us, and, as the huge banks and drifts stretched away off in -the distance, the melting power of heat and the elements -was on every side defied. Not a weed or blade of grass relieved -the monotony of the view; not the chirping of an -insect or the twittering of a bird was heard. The solemn -stillness of the night added a weird grandeur to the scene. -Now and then a breath of wind stirred the topmost branches -of the pines and cedars, and as they swayed to and fro in -the air the music was like that of Ossian, ‘pleasant but -mournful to the soul.’ There were sequoias on every side -almost twice as high as the falls of Niagara; there were -pines rivaling the dome of the capitol at Washington in -grandeur; there were cedars to whose tops the monument -of Bunker Hill would not have reached. There were trees -which were in the full vigor of manhood before America -itself was discovered; there were others which were yet old -before Charlemagne was born; there were others still growing -when the Savior himself was on the earth. There were -trees which had witnessed the winds and storms of twenty -centuries; there were others which would endure long after -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_342">342</span> -countless generations of the future would be numbered -with the past. There were trees crooked and short and -massive; there were others straight and tall and slender. -There were pines whose limbs were as evenly proportioned -as those of the Apollo Belvedere; there were cedars whose -beauty was not surpassed in their counterparts in Lebanon; -there were firs whose graceful foliage was like the fabled -locks of the gods of ancient story. It was a picture in nature -which captivated the sense at once by its grandeur and -extent; and, as we drove back to Clark’s through six miles -of this forest luxuriance, with the darkness falling about us -like a black curtain from the heavens, and the mighty canyons -of the Sierra sinking away from our pathway like the -openings to another world, then it was not power, but -majesty, not beauty but sublimity, not the natural but the -supernatural, which seemed above us and before us.” -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_343">343</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XXII">CHAPTER XXII.</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Statistics—Roads and Accommodations—Chapel and Sunday School—Big -Farms and Great Resources—A Variety of Products—Long Hoped -for Results</p></blockquote> - -<p>Records of the number of visitors to the Yosemite down -to and inclusive of 1875, show that in 1852 Rose and Shurban -were murdered by the savages, while their companion, -Tudor, though wounded, escaped. The next year, 1853, -eight men from the North Fork of the Merced, visited the -valley, returning unharmed. Owing to murders of Starkey, -Sevil and Smith, in the winter of 1853-’4, as it was believed, -by the Yosemites, no visitors entered the valley during the -summer of 1854. In 1855 Messrs. Hutchings, Ayers, Stair -and Milliard, visited it without being disturbed by the sight -of any of the original proprietors, either Indians or grizzlies. -Mr. Hutchings, on his return to San Francisco, began to -draw the attention of the public to the Yosemite, through -his magazine and otherwise. Notwithstanding the ample -means afforded by his magazine, and his facilities as a -writer, Mr. Hutchings found it difficult to bring the valley -into prominent and profitable notice, and few Californians -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_344">344</span> -could be induced to make it a visit. A peculiarity of those -days was a doubt of the marvelous, and a fear of being -“<i>sold</i>.” Any statements of travelers or of the press, that -appeared exaggerated, were received by the public with extreme -caution. Not more than twenty-five or thirty -entered during that year, though Mr. Hutchings’ efforts -were seconded by reports of other visitors.</p> - -<p>The following season, 1856, it was visited by ladies from -Mariposa and San Francisco, who safely enjoyed the -pleasures and <i>inconveniences</i> of the trip; aroused and excited -to the venture, no doubt, by their traditional curiosity. -The fact being published that ladies could safely enter the -valley, lessened the dread of Indians and grizzlies, and after -a few <i>brave reports</i> had been published, this fear seemed to -die away completely.</p> - -<p>From this time on to 1864, a few entered every season; -but during these times California had a <i>wonder</i> and interest -in its population and their enterprises, greater than in any -of its remarkable scenery. Everything was at high pressure, -and the affairs of business and the war for the Union were -all that could excite the common interest. In 1864, there -were only 147 visitors, including men, women and children. -The action of Congress this year, in setting the Yosemite -and big trees apart from the public domain as national -parks, attracted attention to them. The publicity given to -the valley by this act, was world-wide, and since 1864 the -number visiting it has steadily increased.</p> - -<p>According to the <i>Mariposa Gazette</i>, an authentic record -shows that in the season of 1865 the number was 276, in -1866, 382, in 1867, 435, in 1868, 627, and increasing rapidly; -in 1875 the number for that year had reached about -3,000. The figures are deemed reliable, as they were obtained -from the records of toll-roads and hotels. They are -believed to be very nearly correct. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_345">345</span></p> - -<p>The <i>Gazette</i> “estimates the proportion of eastern and -European in the total number to be at least nine-tenths,” -and says: “It is safe to place the Atlantic and European -visitors for the next ten years at 2,000 per annum.”</p> - -<p>I have no doubt the number has been greater even than -was estimated, for improved facilities for entering the valley -have since been established. Seven principal <i>routes</i> -have been opened, and a post office, telegraph and express -offices located. A large hotel has been built by the State, -the trails have been purchased and made free, and the -management is now said by travelers to be quite good. -There is no reason why still further improvements should -not be made. A branch railroad from the San Joaquin -Valley could enter the Yosemite by way of the South Fork, -or by the Valley of the Merced river. Mineral ores and -valuable lumber outside and below the valley and grant, -would pay the cost of construction, and no defacement of -the grand old park or its additions would be required, nor -should be allowed.</p> - -<p>With cars entering the valley, thousands of tourists of -moderate wealth would visit it; and then on foot, from -the hotels, be able to see most of the sublime scenery of -the mountains.</p> - -<p>If horses or carriages should be desired, for the more -distant points of interest, they may readily be obtained in -the valley at reasonable rates. At present, the expense of -travel by stage, carriage and horseback, is considerable, -and many visiting California, do not feel able to incur the -extra expense of a visit to the Yosemite.</p> - -<p>Visitors intending to see both the big trees and the Yosemite -Valley, should visit the trees first, as otherwise the -forest monarchs will have lost a large share of their interest -and novelty. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_346">346</span></p> - -<p>The hotel charges are not much higher than elsewhere -in the State, and the fare is as good as the average in cities. -If extras are required, payment will be expected -as in all localities. There is more water falling in the -spring months, but the water-falls are but fractions of the -interest that attaches to the region. Yosemite is always -grandly beautiful; even in winter it has attractions for the -robust, but invalids had better visit it only after the snow -has disappeared from the lower levels, generally, from -about the first of May to the middle of June.</p> - -<p>From that date on to about the first of November, the -valley will be found a most delightful summer resort, -with abundant fruits and vegetables of perfect growth and -richest flavor.</p> - -<p>All modern conveniences and many luxuries of enlightened -people are now to be found, gathered in full view of -the great fall and its supporting scenery. The hotels, telegraph, -express and post offices are there, and a Union -Chapel dedicated at a grand gathering of the National -Sunday School Union, held during the summer of 1879, -is regularly used for religious services. Those who may -wish to commune with Nature’s God alone while in the -Yosemite, will be in the very innermost sanctuary of all -that is Divine in material creation for the valley is a holy -Temple, and if their hearts are attuned to the harmony -surrounding them, “the testimony of the Rocks” will -bring conviction to their souls.</p> - -<p>The unique character of Mirror Lake will leave its -indelible impressions upon the tourist’s mind, and residents -of the Yosemite will gladly inform him of the varying -proper time in the morning when its calm stillness -will enable one to witness its greatest charm, the “<i>Double -Sunrise</i>.” That phenomena may be ascribed to the lake’s -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_347">347</span> -sheltered closeness to the perpendicular wall of the Half -Dome (nearly 5,000 feet high), and the window-like spaces -between the peaks East and South, looked through by the -sun in his upward, westward flight.</p> - -<p>As a matter of fact, differing according to the seasons of -the year, “sunrise on the lake” may be seen in its reflections -two or more times in the same morning, and, if the visitor -be at the lake when the breeze first comes up on its -daily appearance from the plains, shattering the lake mirror -into fragments, innumerable suns will appear to dazzle -and bewilder the beholder.</p> - -<p>The wonderful scenery and resources of California are -becoming known and appreciated. A large addition has -been made to, and surrounding the Yosemite and Big -Tree Parks, which in time may become one (see map); -and another very large National Park has been established -in Tulare County, to be known as the -<i>Sequoia</i> Park, which includes most of the Big Trees -of that entire region; but it is not so generally -known in the Eastern States that there are such vast landed -estates, such princely realms of unbroken virgin soil -awaiting the developments of industry. Official reports of -the California State Board of Equalization show that there -are 122 farms of 20,000 acres each and over. Of these there -are 67 averaging 70,000 acres each, and several exceed -100,000 acres.</p> - -<p>These figures are published as official, and were well calculated -to make the small farmers of the east open their -eyes; they will yet open the eyes of the land owners themselves -to the importance of bringing their estates under -successful and remunerative cultivation. This will have to -be done in order that these acres may be made to pay a just -taxation. Thousands of acres that are of little use to the -owners or the public—of no value to the state—can, by the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_348">348</span> -judicious introduction of water, be made to pay well for -the investment. Irrigating ditches or canals from the Merced, -one on the north side and the other on the south, a -short distance above Snelling, in Merced county, were located -by the writer, and soon after completion, the arid and -dusty land was transformed into blooming gardens and fertile -vineyards. These were the first irrigating ditches of -any considerable magnitude, constructed in Mariposa or -Merced counties, though irrigation was common enough in -other parts of the state. The advance that has since been -made in California agriculture is wonderful. New methods -adapted to the peculiarities of soil and climate have -been introduced, and new machinery invented and applied -that cheapen the cost of production and lessen manual labor -to a surprising degree: for instance, machinery that -threshes and cleans ready for the market, over 5,000 bushels -of wheat to the machine per day. Capital is still being -largely invested in railroads, and in reclaiming the Tule -(Bull Rush) lands.</p> - -<p>These lands are among the richest in the world. They -grow cotton, tobacco, rice and other southern staples, equal -to the best of the Southern States, with much less danger -from malaria. The valleys of the San Joaquin and Sacramento, -which are simply <i>local</i> divisions of the same great -valley, produce according to altitude, moisture and location, -all the cereals, fruits and vegetables of a temperate clime, -as well as those of semi-tropical character; even the poorest -hill-side lands grow the richest wine and raisin grapes. The -yield is so astonishing, as to appear incredible.</p> - -<p>The raisins grown and cured in California are said to be -equal to the best Malaga; while the oranges, lemons, olives, -figs, almonds, filberts and English walnuts, command the -highest prices in the market. Peaches, pears, grapes and -honey, are already large items in her trade; and her wheat -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_349">349</span> -crops now reach a bulk that is simply enormous.</p> - -<p>The grade of horses, cattle, swine, sheep and wool, are -being brought to a high degree of perfection; for the climate -is most salubrious and invigorating. Her gifts of nature -are most bountiful and perfect. No wonder, then, that the -Californian is enthusiastic when speaking of his sublime -scenery, salubrious climate and surprising products.</p> - -<p>But I must no longer dwell upon my theme, nor tell of -the fruitful Fresno lands, redeemed from savage barbarity. -Those scenes of beauteous enchantment I leave to -those who may remain to enjoy them. And yet—</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">El Capitan, I turn to gaze upon thy lofty brow,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">With reverent yearnings to thy Maker bow.<br /></span> -<span class="i2">But now farewell, Yosemite;<br /></span> -<span class="i4">If thou appears not again in sight,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Thou’lt come, I know, in life’s extremity<br /></span> -<span class="i4">While passing into realms of light.<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<h3>THE END.</h3> - -<div class="footnotes"> - -<h2 id="FOOTNOTES">FOOTNOTES:</h2> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">1</a> -“Rock Chief,” a literal translation of “Tote-ack-ah-noo-la,” rendered “El Capitan” -in Spanish, from the likeness of a man’s head upon the wall.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">2</a> -The Yosemites were known as the “Bear tribe.” “Ten-ie-ya” was chief.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">3</a> -“Scho look” is the Indian name for the “High Fall;” “Ah-wah-ne,” the <i>old</i> -name of Valley, and “Kay o pha” (the sky), the name of highest or snow-clad -peaks.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">4</a> -At intervals at the Vernal a <i>round</i> rainbow is formed, perfect as a finger-ring.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5" class="label">5</a> -“Glacier Fall,” in place of “Too-loo lo-we ack.”</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6" class="label">6</a> -“Sentinel Dome” was known to the discoverers as the “South Dome,” and “Tis sa ack,” -meaning cleft-rock, as the “Half Dome.”</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7" class="label">7</a> -Mr. Pratt’s retraction has finally appeared in the June number for -1891.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8" class="label">8</a> -An Indian corruption of Bautista.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_9" href="#FNanchor_9" class="label">9</a> -According to the Rev. S. G. Wright, of Leach Lake, Minnesota Reservation, -and “<i>Wain-ding</i>” (the source of the wind), the best interpreters -of the Chippewa perhaps now living, but few, if any, of the Chippewa -names for our lakes and rivers have been preserved in their purity.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_10" href="#FNanchor_10" class="label">10</a> -Captain Joe Walker, for whom “Walker’s Pass” is named, told me -that he once passed quite near the valley on one of his mountain trips; -but that his Ute and Mono guides gave such a dismal account of the -canons of both rivers, that he kept his course near to the divide until -reaching Bull Creek, he descended and went into camp, not seeing the -valley proper.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_11" href="#FNanchor_11" class="label">11</a> -In some way unaccountable to me, this speech appears in my article -in Hutching’s work, as if delivered before the fight at “Battle Mountain.”</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_12" href="#FNanchor_12" class="label">12</a> -I have learned through the kindness of Dr. A. Kellogg, of the California -Academy of Sciences, that this tree is now known as the “<i>Torreya -Californica</i>.”</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_13" href="#FNanchor_13" class="label">13</a> -It is claimed by all Indian “Medicine Men” that the presence of a -spirit is announced by a <i>cool</i> breeze, and that sometimes they turn cold -and shake as with an ague.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_14" href="#FNanchor_14" class="label">14</a> -Known as the Mexican Pheasant, though not very good to eat.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_15" href="#FNanchor_15" class="label">15</a> -Mr. Winchester, connected with some eastern publication, accompanied -Captain Boling and myself, in the latter part of June, 1851, as far -as the Tehon Pass. During the trip I gave him a full account of the operations -of the battalion, which he took notes of, and said he should publish -on arriving home. His health was very poor, and I doubt if his -manuscript was ever published. I never heard from him afterwards.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_16" href="#FNanchor_16" class="label">16</a> -From an elaboration of legend interpreted by Stephen M. Cunningham, in -1857.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_17" href="#FNanchor_17" class="label">17</a> -This cliff was climbed for the first time by Mr. George G. Anderson, -on October 12th, 1875. It has now a stair-way running over the difficult -part of the ascent.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_18" href="#FNanchor_18" class="label">18</a> -All trails within the original grant have now been made free.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_19" href="#FNanchor_19" class="label">19</a> -A wagon road now enters upon a lower level.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_20" href="#FNanchor_20" class="label">20</a> -See Gen. John Bidwell’s account in Century magazine for Nov. 1890.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_21" href="#FNanchor_21" class="label">21</a> -Most of the Big Trees of Tulare County are within the new “Sequoia Park.”</p></div> - -</div> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<hr /> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> - -<div class="transnote"> - -<h3>Transcriber’s Note:</h3> - -<p>List of Illustrations entry “Fire Stick, page 134” moved to correct position; -List of Illustrations entry “Riding through a Tree, Page 325” changed to read -“Riding through a Tree, Page 339”</p> - -<p>Obvious printer errors corrected silently.</p> - -<p>Some unpaired double quotation marks could not be corrected.</p> - -<p>Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation are as in the original.</p> - -</div> - -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<hr class="full" /> -<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE***</p> -<p>******* This file should be named 56042-h.htm or 56042-h.zip *******</p> -<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> -<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/5/6/0/4/56042">http://www.gutenberg.org/5/6/0/4/56042</a></p> -<p> -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed.</p> - -<p>Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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