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diff --git a/old/55759-8.txt b/old/55759-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 989de47..0000000 --- a/old/55759-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4568 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's A Colored Man Round the World, by David F. Dorr - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: A Colored Man Round the World - -Author: David F. Dorr - -Release Date: October 16, 2017 [EBook #55759] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A COLORED MAN ROUND THE WORLD *** - - - - -Produced by Christopher Wright, Carlo Traverso and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net -(This file was produced from images generously made -available by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - -[Illustration: _CONGRESS OF FRANCE._] - - - - - A COLORED MAN - - ROUND THE WORLD. - - - BY A QUADROON. - - - PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR. - 1858. - - - Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1858, by - DAVID F. DORR, - in the Clerk's office of the District Court, for the Northern - District of Ohio. - - - - -TO MY SLAVE MOTHER. - - -Mother! wherever thou art, whether in Heaven or a lesser world; or -whether around the freedom Base of a Bunker Hill, or only at the -lowest savannah of American Slavery, thou art the same to me, and I -dedicate this token of my knowledge to thee mother, Oh, my own -mother! - - YOUR DAVID. - - - - -INDEX. - - - PAGE. - - DEBUT IN A FOREIGN LAND, 13 - - LONDON, 19 - - THE QUEEN IN HYDE PARK, 22 - - I AM GOING TO PARIS, 25 - - FIRST DAY IN PARIS, 29 - - FIRST NIGHT IN PARIS, 33 - - I MUST ROVE AWAY FROM PARIS, 43 - - SPICY TOWNS OF GERMANY, 49 - - DOWN AMONG THE DUTCH, 57 - - COL. FELLOWES LEARNING DUTCH, 61 - - ON! ON! TO WATERLOO, 71 - - THE BIAS OF MY TOUR, 77 - - COUP D'ETAT OF NAPOLEON III, 81 - - THE SECRETS OF A PARIS LIFE AND WHO KNOWS THEM, 87 - - ROME AND ST. PETER'S CHURCH, 97 - - NAPLES AND ITS CRAFT, 102 - - ST. JANUARIUS AND HIS BLOOD, 108 - - CONSTANTINOPLE, 114 - - THE DOGS PROVOKE ME, AND THE WOMEN ARE VEILED, 121 - - A COLORED MAN FROM TENNESSEE SHAKING HANDS WITH THE - SULTAN, AND MEN PUTTING WOMEN IN THE BATH AND - TAKING THEM OUT, 125 - - GOING TO ATHENS WITH A PRIMA DONNA, 130 - - ATHENS A SEPULCHRE, 134 - - BEAUTIFUL VENICE, 143 - - VERONA AND BOLOGNA, 149 - - FRIENZA DE BELLA CITA, 153 - - BACK TO PARIS, 159 - - EGYPT AND THE NILE, 163 - - EGYPTIAN KINGS OF OLDEN TIME, 167 - - TRAVELING ON THE NILE 800 MILES, 171 - - THEBES AND BACK TO CAIRO, 175 - - CAMELS--THROUGH THE DESERT, 179 - - JERUSALEM, JERICHO AND DAMASCUS, 183 - - CONCLUSION, 189 - - - - -PREFACE. - - -The Author of this book, though a quadroon, is pleased to announce -himself the "Colored man around the world." Not because he may look -at a colored man's position as an honorable one at this age of the -world, he is too smart for that, but because he has the satisfaction -of looking with his own eyes and reason at the ruins of the ancestors -of which he is the posterity. If the ruins of the Author's ancestors -were not a living language of their scientific majesty, this book -could receive no such appellation with pride. Luxor, Carnack, the -Memnonian and the Pyramids make us exclaim, "What monuments of pride -can surpass these? what genius must have reflected on their -foundations! what an ambition these people must have given to the -rest of the world when found the glory of the world in their -hieroglyphic stronghold of learning," whose stronghold, to-day, is -not to be battered down, because we cannot reach their hidden -alphabet. Who is as one, we might suppose, "learned in all the -learning of the Egyptians." Have we as learned a man as Moses, and if -yes, who can prove it? How did he come to do what no man can do now? -You answer, God aided him; that is not the question! No, all you know -about it is he was "learned in all the learning of the Egyptians," -that is the answer; and thereby knew how to facilitate a glorious -cause at heart, because had he been less learned, who could conceive -how he could have proved to us to be a man full of successful logic. -Well, who were the Egyptians? Ask Homer if their lips were not thick, -their hair curly, their feet flat and their skin black. - -But the Author of this book, though a colored man, hopes to die -believing that this federated government is destined to be the -noblest fabric ever germinated in the brain of men or the tides of -Time. Though a colored man, he believes that he has the right to say -that, in his opinion, _the American people are to be the Medes and -Persians of the 19th century_. He believes, from what he has seen in -the four quarters of the globe, that the federal tribunal of this -mighty people and territory, are to weigh other nations' portion of -power by its own scale, and equipoise them on its own pivot, "_the -will of the whole people_," the federal people. And as he believes -that the rights of ignorant people, whether white or black, ought to -be respected by those who have seen more, he offers this book of -travels to that class who craves to know what those know who have -respect for them. In offering this book to the public, I will say, by -the way, I wrote it under the disadvantage of having access to no -library save Walker's school dictionary. In traveling through Europe, -Asia and Africa, I am indebted to Mr. Cornelius Fellowes, of the -highly respectable firm of Messrs. Fellowes & Co., 149 Common St., -New Orleans, La. This gentleman treated me as his own son, and could -look on me as as free a man as walks the earth. But if local law has -power over man, instead of man's effects, I was legally a slave, and -would be to-day, like my mother, were I on Louisiana's soil instead -of Ohio's. - -When we returned to America, after a three years' tour, I called on -this original man to consummate a two-fold promise he made me, in -different parts of the world, because I wanted to make a connection, -that I considered myself more than equaled in dignity and means, but -as he refused me on old bachelor principles, I fled from him and his -princely promises, westward, where the "star of empire takes its -way," reflecting on the moral liberties of the legal freedom of -England, France and our New England States, with the determination to -write this book of "overlooked things" in the four quarters of the -globe, seen by "a colored man round the world." - - THE AUTHOR. - - - - -DEBUT IN A FOREIGN LAND. - - -This day, June 15th, 1851, I commence my writings of a promiscuous -voyage. This day is Sunday. I am going from the Custom house, where I -have deposited my baggage to be searched for contraband goods, and -making my way along a street that might be termed, from its -appearance, "The street of cemeteries." This street is in Liverpool, -and is a mercantile street in every sense of the word, and the reason -why it looked so lonesome and a business street at that, is wanting. -I must now explain why so great a street looked dismal. The English -people are, indeed, a moral people. This was the Sabbath, and the -"bells were chiming," discoursing the sweetest sacred music I had -ever heard. The streets were very narrow and good. Their material was -solid square stones closely packed together. The houses were very -high, some being six stories. Not one house for half a mile had a -door or window ajar. It was raining; consequently not a person was to -be seen. All of a sudden the coachman drew up to the side walk, and, -opening the coach, said, "Adelphi, sir." I was looking with -considerable interest to see the hotel of so much celebrity on board -the ship. Captain Riley had informed me that it was a house not to be -surpassed in the "hotel line," and I had put an estimated interest on -this important item to travelers that Southerners are too much -addicted to. I mean to say, that I, a Southerner, judge too much by -appearance, instead of experience. I had been taught at Orleans that -the "English could whip all the world, and we could whip the -English," and that England was always in great danger of being -starved by us, and all her manufactories stopped in double quick time -by Southern cotton-planters. But, the greatest absurdity of all was, -that England was very much afraid that we would declare war against -her, and thereby ruin what little independence she still retains. I, -under this dispensation of knowledge, looked around to see the -towering of a "St. Charles or Verandah," but when I saw a house -looking like all the rest, I came to the conclusion that the English -were trying to get along without making any improvement, as it was -not certain how long we would permit her to remain a "monarchial -independent nation." Just then a well-dressed gentleman opened the -door and descended the steps with an umbrella to escort me in. "Come -right in here, sir," said he, leading me into a large room, with an -organ and hat-stands as its furniture. The organ was as large as an -ordinary sized church organ. The gentleman took my overcoat and hung -it up. He then asked me some questions concerning the voyage, after -which he asked me to walk to the Bureau and register my name. This -done we ascend one flight of stairs and enter my room. He asked me if -I wished fire. I answered in the affirmative. He left me. - -Having seated myself _a la American_, I listened very attentively to -"those chiming bells." Tap, tap on my door called forth another -American expression, "come in." The door opened and a beautiful girl -of fifteen summers came in with a scuttle of coal and kindling. She -wore on her head a small frilled cap, and it was very small. A snow -white apron adorned her short, neat dress. A man is a good deal like -a dog in some particulars. He may be uncommonly savage in his nature, -and as soon as he sees his sexual mate, his attention is manifested -in the twinkling of an eye. She looked so neat, I thought it good -policy to be polite, and become acquainted. Having finished making a -lively little fire, she rose up from her half-bending posture to -follow up her duty through the hotel. "What is your name, Miss," said -I; "Mary," said she, at the same time moving away. "I shall be here a -week said I, and want you to take care of me." Mary's pretty little -feet could stay no longer with propriety the first time. - -In fifteen minutes the gong rang for dinner. I locked my door, and -made my way through the narrow passages to hunt head quarters. -Passing one of the inferior passage ways, I saw Mary half whispering -to one of her companions about the American, and laughing jocularly. -Her eyes fell upon me just as mine did on her. In the twinkling of -an eye she conveyed an idea to her comrade that the topic must be -something else, which seemed to have been understood before conveyed. -"Mary," said I, "I want some washing done," as polite as a piled -basket of chips. She stepped up to me and said, "Are they ready, -sir?" "No," said I, "I will be up in a few minutes," (we always do -things by minutes.) "I will call for them," said she. I descended and -found a good dinner, after which I walked into the newsroom, where I -found several of the merchants of Liverpool assembled to read and -discuss the prevailing topics of interest. Seated close to a table on -which was the London Times, New York Tribune and Herald, the French -Journal, called the Moniteur, besides several other Journals of -lesser note, was a noble looking gentleman. On the other side of this -feast of news was another noble and intellectual looking gentleman. -These were noblemen from different parts of England. They were -quietly discussing the weak points in American policy. One held that -if the negroes of the Southern States were fit for freedom, it would -be an easy matter for four million of slaves to raise the standard of -liberty, and maintain it against 250,000 slaveholders. The other -gentleman held that it was very true, but they needed some white man, -well posted in the South, with courage enough to plot the _entree_. -He continued, at great length, to show the feasibility under a French -plotter. He closed with this expression, "One intelligent Frenchman -like Ledru Rollin could do the whole thing before it could be -known." I came to the conclusion that they were not so careful in the -expression of their views as I thought they ought to be. I was quite -sure that they would not be allowed to use such treasonable language -at Orleans or Charleston as that they had just indulged in. - -Sitting in my room about an hour after hearing this nauseous -language, Mary came for the clothes, for that is what she asked for. -I requested Mary to wait until Monday morning, for the fact was, I -had no clothes--they were in the Custom House. Here Mary began to -show more familiarity than I had ever shown, but she only expressed -enough to show me that she only wished to return for my clothes when -they were ready. I gave her to understand that nothing would give me -more pleasure than to have her return again for them. - - * * * * * - -Two weeks have gone by. I am now packing my trunk for London. In half -an hour, the evening express train leaves here for a five hours' -cruise over farms of rich and poor, like a streak of lightning. I -find on the day of departure that the servants are like the servants -of all parts of my own country. It is impossible for me to do -anything for myself. I have offers from nearly all parts of the -Hotel, volunteering to do all that is to be done and more -too.--Before I commenced packing my trunk, I went down to the Bureau -(office) to have my bill made out. As I passed along the passage I -saw a large man with slippers on, with a cap denoting Cookery, bowing -and scraping. I instantly perceived that my fame, as an American, had -reached the culinary sanctum. I requested the Clerk to have my bill -ready, but found that I was too late in the information to be given. -My bill was already made out. - -A quarter to 5 o'clock, I showed to Mary, my sincere wishes for her -welfare, and left my apartment. Her cap was neater than when I -located there; her apron was whiter, and her hair was neater. I done -my duty to the advice given by Murray, who is the author of the Guide -Book of all Europe, Asia, and even Africa. He says that it is best to -give a small bonus to the menials in public or private houses. The -landlord, saw me in the coach and wished me a happy voyage to London. -When the coach moved gradually away from that small Hotel, it carried -lingering thoughts of friendship and comfort. I thought of the kind -attention, and obedient but commanding language of all I had seen, -and the moral came home to my heart, saying "you have value -received." I reflected on Mary's cap and snow white apron; the old -porter's hopeful countenance; the dining room servants; and how well -they seemed to be pleased, when the driver stopped my coach and -landed me at the London station in a good humor. All aboard! The -Cars, (express train in a hurry) dashed on with fury, and I found -myself a happy man on my way to London. - - - - -LONDON. - - -Last night I arrived here, making the time from Liverpool in five -hours and a half. My location is between Buckingham Palace and -Trafalgar Square. I am on the second floor, in the Trafalgar Hotel, -on Trafalgar Square. The Queen, when in London, resides at this -celebrated palace. It is in St. James' Park. This July 28th, London -is the world's Bazaar. The Crystal Palace is the acquafortis of -curiosity that gives the arcadial polish to London's greatness. This -is the place where every country is trying to make a pigmy of some -other. In this great feast of genius no country is fairly -represented. The United States has many articles of arts in the -palace that are not what she has ever prided herself on as her arts. -One of our ordinary Steam Boats would have astonished the natives -beyond the admiration of all the trumpery that we ever contemplate -carrying to a World's Fair. I was, indeed, ashamed to see the piles -of India Rubber Shoes, Coats and Pants, and Clocks that stood out in -bas relief in that part of the palace appropriated to the American -Arts and Sciences.--Pegged Shoes and Boots were without number. -Martingales and Side Saddles, Horse Shoes, Ploughs, Threshing -Machines, Irrigators, and all the most worthless trash to be found in -the States. I saw everything that was a prevailing disgrace to our -country except slaves. I understood that a South Carolinian proposed -taking half a dozen haughty and sinewy negroes to the Fair, but was -only deterred from that proposition by the want of courage to risk -six fat, strong healthy negroes to the chances of escape from slavery -to freedom. In the centre of this beautiful and most splendid palace, -was a Band of Music not to be surpassed by any Band for discoursing -sweet melody. Close to this music was a beautiful fountain, throwing -sprays upward like the heaves of a shark; and round about this -fountain were seats for ladies and gentlemen to take refreshments -together. This palace resembles, in a great degree, "Paradise found;" -there is also some sparrows inside yet, that the Falcons did not run -out when those twenty thousand took possession some months ago. These -little birds light about among this gay crowd as if they were on one -of our wild prairies, lighting among the still gayer tribe of flora. -Two or three tried to light on a spray of water, but could not make -it go. I see two sitting on a piano, whilst one is trying to get an -equilibrium on the strings of a harp. The piano now opens and a -noblemen is seating one of the most handsome women there I have seen -in England. I said to a young Englishman, that is indeed a handsome -woman. He said yes, she is generally pronounced the handsomest woman -in London. I enquired her pedigree and found that it was the -benevolent Duchess of Sutherland; like a humming bird, from one -"sweet flower" to another her alabaster-like fingers darted from the -bassiest note to the flutiest. The pianos were generally enclosed -like a separate tomb with railings a yard from the pianos. After her -highness had played out "God Save the Queen" and brought an audience -round the railing, as if they really came to protect the "queen of -beauty," she played a thrilling retreat as if her intention was to -convey the idea that she must retreat or be captured. The piece -played, she rose straight up and gazed around upon the recruits she -had drummed up with the air of a successful adventurer throughout the -world; she moved along this immense crowd of various classes like a -swan in a showery storm. Whilst all was in commotion, she seemed more -herself. The noble gallant seemed to be quite conscious that the lady -he was gallanting was the _Duchess of Sutherland_. - -On the outside of the Crystal Palace is a small, fairy-like house, -erected for Prince Albert and her majesty the Queen of England to -lunch in when they visit the Fair. It is said that the Prince planned -it himself. In this pretty little house is enough furniture of -various beauties to make an ordinary Fair itself. - -The Police regulations about this Fair are admirable. There is no -question that can be asked about this affair but will be properly and -intellectually answered by any policeman. They are intelligent men -and seem to take an interest as well as pride in this great Fair. - - - - -THE QUEEN IN HYDE PARK. - - -It is now 4 o'clock. All the streets within a mile of the Crystal -Palace are crowded with people, instead of drays, carts, wagons and -other impeding obstacles to the World's Fair. For a quarter of a mile -down the street that leads to St. James' Square, where the Queen -resides, at Buckingham Palace, I presume I can see 50,000 people -bareheaded, that is to say, they have their hats off. But, at the -further end of this quarter of a mile, I see a uniform commotion, and -this commotion of heads are coming towards Hyde Park. I mean only the -commotion but not the heads. These heads are being responded to from -an open plain Calashe, that is coming as rapid as a Post Chaise from -the battle field when bringing good tidings to a King.--The object of -this exciting moment is the Queen of England. One minute and she is -gone by, as she passed me, bowing on all sides to the crowd greeting -her. I felt a sort of religious thrill pass over me, and I said to -myself "this is civilization." Her Majesty was evidently proud of -her people's homage; and her people were not ashamed to show their -loyalty to their "gracious Queen." She was looking remarkably healthy -for one living on the delicacies of a Queen. In fact she was too -healthy in appearance for a Queen. Her color was too red and -masculine for a lady. She was considerable stouter than I thought she -was, and quite as handsome as I expected to find the great Queen. -Seated opposite her, face to face, was her Maid of Honor; and seated -by her side vis-a-vis to the Queen, was a couple of the "little -bloods" of her Majesty and Prince Coburgh. I thought it strange that -his highness, Prince Albert, was not accompanying the Queen. I -learned afterwards that it was usual for the Queen to go in Hyde Park -alone. I also found that the Prince and his courtiers were gone out -deer stalking. - -In the Queen's calashe was four greys. The driver rode the hindmost -left horse. In his right hand he carried a light whip which was -altogether useless. About 50 yards ahead of this moving importance, a -liveried outrider sped on at a rapid speed, that the populace might -know that he was soliciting their attention to making way for the -Queen. He wore long, white-legged boots, and held his Arab steed as -artful as a Bedouin sporting over a rocky desert. His other -habiliments were red, save his hat, which was a latest style silk. -The driver keeps him in view, and has nothing to do but mount and -drive off after this courier or out-rider, who gets his orders at the -Palace where to lead. - -It is said that the Queen is not celebrated for a good temper. Like -her symbol, the lion, she is not to be bearded by any one, no matter -how important. She is a natural monarch and feels her royalty. Prince -Albert is one of the handsomest men I ever saw. The like of the -Prince's popularity among the ladies of the Court cannot be equaled -by any nobleman in England; but that popularity must be general, it -cannot be in spots, for the Queen is not unlike other women under the -influence of the "green-eyed monster." Although Prince Albert's -virtue has never been dishonored by even a hint, still the Queen is -not to be too trusty. Prince Albert is a model of a "true gentleman." -He could not suspect half as quick as the most virtuous Queen the -world has ever been ornamented with. - -The English people are alone in all things pertaining to domestic -life. It would puzzle the double-width intellect of a hermit to tell -what one was thinking about; and this nonchalence of air to -surrounding circumstances is every moment blowing upon the object in -their heart. France sets the fashion for the world, but what the -morning paper say about the dress worn by the empress on the champs -d'elysee yesterday, is not what the poorest maid servant is trying to -find out to cut her calico by, but what her Majesty wore at Windsor -or Buckingham. These people were wearing the skins of the beasts of -their forests in the days of the Cęsars' invasion, and barbarous as -our Indians, but now they are the most civilized and christian power -on this earth. - -A German now sitting by my side tells me this is a gross subject for -me to be writing upon. I asked what subject? He said Konigon (Queen). -On reflection I find it true, and now retire from the beading of this -chapter. - - - - -I AM GOING TO PARIS. - - -I am now all cap a pie for Paris. Ho! for Boston, is nothing to ah! -Paris. I have been this morning to get my last view of the great -Palace of the World's Fair. I have since been to Greenwich to eat -white bait, and I am now hurrying on to the station. Whoever wishes -to see a good deal of the country, and a broken down route, had -better take what is called the Brighton Route. If you leave London at -6 o'clock in the evening, you will stop at 8 o'clock at New Haven, a -place with a name on the map, but in fact no place at all, save the -destination of the train of this route. There you will, in all -probability, have to wait about an old building an hour or two for -the arrival of a boat to take you across the channel. Next morning, -if you are lucky, you arrive at 8 o'clock at a little old French town -called Dieppe, just in time to be too late to take the morning train -for Paris. It is said that these little old half dead towns live off -these tricks. I got a pretty breakfast _a la carte_; I say pretty, -because I had boiled eggs, red wine and white, radishes, lettuce, and -three boquets on my breakfast table. Having been disappointed in -taking the morning's train for Paris, I vented my wrath on both -bottles of wine, thereby getting an equilibrium between -disappointment and contentment. This done I went down to a little old -shed which they called the Custom House, to get my trunks which they -had been searching. I then took a ride in the country to see the -ruins of an ancient castle, captured by the first reigning king of -the present great Bourbon family, Henry Quatre, King of Navarre. This -was the first ruined castle I had ever seen, and it interested me so -much that in spite of the boat last night with no berths, sea -sickness, custom-house troubles, disappointment in getting to Paris -that day instead of 11 o'clock at night, I was in quite a good humor, -and in fact, considered myself well paid for the ride, though in an -old chaise and two poor horses. - -At the ruins of this enormous pile of brick and mortar, was an old, -broken down French officer. His companion was a lonely raven. We -could go in and out of no part of this dilapidated mass of downfallen -power, without meeting the raven. He seemed to be a lonely spirit. I -caught at him once when he came within two feet of me; he jumped -about a foot further off and stopped right still, and turned his head -so that one eye was up and the other down, and kept looking up at me -as long as I looked at him, as if he would fain say _laissi moi_ -(let me be). The cool treatment of the raven about these old ruins -lowered my spirits. I gave the old soldier a franc for his trouble -and information, and got in my old turn-out, and turned around to say -adieu to the old soldier when I found him too much engaged paying -Jocko with crumbs, his portion of the bonus, for services rendered. - -At 4 o'clock I found myself well seated in a French car, for the -first time, direct for Paris. Here we go in a tunnel, and it is dark -as ebony; here we come out; away go the cattle as if Indians were -after them. - -It would be impossible to conjecture that French farmers were lazy, -for this is the Sabbath and down in the meadows I see farmers -reaping. I can see towns in such quick succession, it would be -useless to attempt to describe them. It is now 11 o'clock, and I am -at my destination and being searched. Nothing found and I am -pronounced an honest man. But my honesty, if there be any, is like -Falstaff's, hid. I have two hundred cigars in my over and under coat, -and they are, indeed, contraband and was one of the greatest objects -of search; but, reader, if you pronounce this French stupidity you -deceive yourself. It was French politeness that allowed me to pass -unnoticed by this scrutinizing assemblage of Savans. If a man move -among these lynx-eyed prefectures as a gentleman ought to, he is, -once out of three times, likely to pass the barrier of their polite -inclinations, whilst at the same time it would give them great -satisfaction to believe that it would pay to examine you, were there -a justifiable excuse for such rudeness, overbalancing the politeness -which is characteristic of their whole national dignity. The French -are proud of their national characteristics, and least of all nations -inclined to trample them under foot. - -It is now eleven o'clock, as I have before said, and I am in Paris, -trying to get across the Boulevard des Italian. What I mean by trying -is, picking my chance. I am no dancing master, and in this crowded -street might not do the dodging right the first time. - -I am now across and ringing the bell at 179 Rue Richelieu. This is -the Hotel des Prince (Hotel of the Princes). Mr. Privat is the -proprietor. In this Hotel all have gone to bed except a beautiful -little woman at the concierge. She was sewing whilst stillness -reigned around her, like a deep, dark forest, just before a storm. -She received me with a smile. I, not knowing that this was her usual -behavior to all patronage of this or any other house in Paris, took -for granted I had made an extra impression right off. She took me to -an apartment which she said was merely temporary. To-morrow, she -said, I could get another to my taste. I gazed around at all the -different doors and comforts with numerous conveniencies of neatness, -and said to her, "Miss, this, in my opinion, is good enough for the -oldest inhabitant." She smiled and went away and brought me a bottle -of water with a piece of ice inside just the shape of the bottle. -"How did you put that piece of ice inside without breaking the -bottle?" said I. "It was water, sir, and it froze inside," said she, -"will you have something to eat?" I said I would like a small bit of -chicken and red wine; she rang the bell and an English and French -waiter was summoned; she went away and left me pretty certain that I -was in Paris. - - - - -FIRST DAY IN PARIS. - - -Next morning I felt pretty sure I was in Paris, or I "wasn't anywhere -else." Every five minutes would assure me that I was there. Before -the grey of the morn departed from Paris I had two lady visitors. One -was a beautiful girl, like "Mary of Adelphi." She was evidently -mistaken in finding a tenant in this one of her rooms, unless that -was her way. She moved up to the washstand, which was near my bed, or -rather couch, and slyly looked in the drawer and drew back. I, -wishing to let her know that if her business or adventure was -connected with me, she need not fear waking me, rose my left arm and -said, "good morning!" She, not understanding what I did say, muttered -out something like "_reste vous tranquilles_," which, I afterwards -learned, meant, don't be disturbed. She hurried out the half opened -door pulling her little starched dress, that seemed to pull back, -after her. Five minutes after this, she returned and placed on my -stand close to my bed, a bottle of ice water and a glass. I asked her -name, she said, Elverata, and winded away. - -Five minutes after this another female opened my door about a foot -and leaned gracefully in. She asked me some question two or three -times, all that I could understand was Blanche, with some other -points to it like _E sirs_. Consulting my guide of the French -translated into the four following languages, French, Italian, German -and English, I discovered she was talking about washing. I got this -book in London and studied all the way to Paris, but found that I had -made no improvement; all I knew of the book was, that the words -translated were only some useful words that the solicitors would most -likely know themselves when it would be necessary to use such -expressions. She ran to me, for she was acquainted with the book -better than I was, and helped to find what she wished to say. "_Ie -trouver, Ie trouver_," she said. I gave her the book, at the same -time asking her in English what was _trouver_. She looked up at the -wall, like a Madonna, and seemed to be lost in inward study, at last -she looked me full in the face and said, "fyend." "Ah!" said I, -"find." "Yis!" said she, "what you call _cela_?" "Washerwoman," said -I. "_Ie suis washe-women_." This woman was certainly very bewitching -whilst speaking this broken English. I gave her to understand that -some other time would be more agreeable. She said she "stand" and -went out; but as she did not stand, but went out, I presume she meant -to say "I understand." - -At eight o'clock I descended to the _salle a manger_ for breakfast. -Persons were coming in to breakfast, two and three a minute, and -others were going out as fast. This continued till eleven o'clock. -Thirty and forty were frequently at the table at the same time. -Mostly all were Europeans; and had everything not gone on so -regularly, an American "greenhorn" would have taken them to be the -confusion of tongues convening for a reconciliation. On the table was -more wine than coffee. The coffee was usually taken in the smoking -room, where all gentlemen assemble to discuss politics. Among this -assemblage that I am so flippantly speaking of, was three noblemen of -England, one Duke of Italy, three barons of the Rhine, and a broken -down princess. From merely gossip authority, I learned that she was -the wife of a great man in one of the Russio Turko principalities. -She was generally dressed in black, and had two servants and a -_lacquey de place_. She was handsome and that had ruined her. She was -getting from her husband 100,000 per annum to stay away from him and -his court, which seemed to meet her approbation. She roomed on the -same floor I did, and I frequently met her smiling in these narrow -and dark passage ways. She seldom dined at the "_table de hote_," -(dinner table) but either at the _trois frere_, (three brothers) or -the _maison d'or Doree_, corner of the Boulevard and rue Lafitte. She -most always had her Cabinet, good dinners and various wines, -consequently was always full of agreeability. She would walk home -herself, and, like the rest of ladies in Paris, she was always sure -that her dress in front should not drag the ground, by a process she -had in her nature, to show her intention of keeping her dress high -enough to prevent all accidents of the kind. By this habit of hers, -she got many admirers, for what a man would then see instead of her -dress would be no disadvantage to her or her intention. Her -reputation was such that had she been once gazed upon by the Virgin -Mary, the fiery censure of her pure eyes would have been basilisks to -her poor heart; the poor Princess would have dropped dead from the -mere spark of censure which the Virgin could not, though fain would, -hold back. - -The day has gone by. I stood about, looking! looking! looking! Seeing -what is novel enough to an American in Paris, in the court of the -_Hotel des Princes_. Night came on and I went to my room to prepare -to see a "Night in Paris." I shall write of a Night in Paris, and -then shall say no more of Paris until I have been to Germany and -return, where I expect to spend three or four months. After this -voyage I calculate to spend the winter here, and write something of -Paris and its manners. - -My first day ends by meeting the Princess on the steps, and having -the pleasure of answering some inquiries of hers about sea-sickness, -and pleasant ships of the Cunard Line. - - - - -FIRST NIGHT IN PARIS. - - -My "first day in Paris" commenced at night. If sauce for the goose is -sauce for the gander, I will commence this chapter in the day by -saying, "where now! valet de place?" "Notre dame," he replied, and -the coachman drove away towards the Boulevards. In half an hour's -time, he reined before the door of that "Venerable old monument of -reality and romance." I approached it like a timid child being baited -with a shining sixpence. As my feet touched the sill, a peal came -from the belfry, one of those sonorous twangs, that have made so many -hearts flinch for hundreds of years in the "Bloody Bastile," and it -vibrated from my timid heart to all parts of my frame. At this moment -a reverend father offered me his hand, who had all the time been -concealed beneath what one might well take to be a dark black coffin -standing on end. I accepted his hand, and he led me quietly in that -vast "sepulchre of kings." - -In all directions I saw magnificent aisles, and altars with burning -incense. Magnificent pictures representing all reverend worth, from -the "Son of Man," to saints of France. Golden knobs with inscriptions -thereon, adorned the footsteps of every visitor thereof, denoting the -downwardness of kings who had once ruled nations. Whilst standing -there awestruck with departed worth, I gazed downward with a -submissive heart, when lo! I stood upon the coffin of a king! I -quickly changed my position, but stepped upon a queen. The valet was -relating to me the many different opinions the people had about -stepping on noted personages, and how unnecessary it was to take -notice of such things as they were dead, when I got disgusted at his -ignorance, and stepped from a Queen to a Princess. - -To describe this gorgeously furnished sanctum, it is enough to say, -that all the brilliant artists of this scientific people have been -engaged for hundreds of years in its decoration. Not only employed by -the coffers of the Church of France, but by the throne that upheld -numerous kings, as well as the wish of the whole populace of France, -and the spoils of other nations. Hundreds of people from different -parts of the world visit it every day, and all leave a franc or two. -Thousands of Parisians visit it every day, and they make no mark of -decay. It stands a living monument of Church and State. - -Drive me to the national assembly, I said to the coachman. In ten -minutes I was going up the gallery. Before I went in, the valet went -to a member's coachman, and gave him a franc, and he gave in return a -ticket to the gallery. Each member is allowed so many gallery -tickets, and if he fails in giving them out, he makes his servants -presents of them, and they sell them. - -They were debating republican principles. Louis Napoleon was then -President of the Republic, and on the door of every building and gate -of France were these words in legible letters, "Liberte Eqalite -Fraternite." Louis Napoleon was not there that day, and they seemed -to have a good time, like mice when the cat is away. The most -incomprehensible part of their proceeding was, sometimes two would be -speaking at once, regardless of the chair. The speaker hammered away -furiously, but it was hard to tell, unless you knew, whether he was -beating up a revival or a retreat from destruction; as they cooled -off their debative heat, there was always twenty or thirty ready to -throw agitating fuel in the furnace. As they would cool down a whiff, -mushroom-like risings, would be perceptible in four or five different -parts of the spacious hall. I could make nothing out of what was -going on, save willingness to talk instead of listening, and I left. -One handsome and intelligent looking gentleman descended at the same -time, which I learned to be the correspondent of the New York -Tribune. I then took a curve like tour back, across the Seine, by the -Tuillieries, Luxomburg, and back to the same part of the Boulevards, -which was more crowded with fashion, than when I passed along in the -forenoon, and went home. Night came on, and with it, the gayest time -of Paris. The valet said I must go to _Jardin mabeille_, (a ball), I -rode there. This is a nightly ball, but there was no less than fifty -vehicles of different comforts, which showed that a great many -foreigners were there, because Parisians generally prefer promenading -when going to such a feast of pleasure. I paid two francs and went -in. - -It was a garden about a square block in size. In all parts of it was -shrubbery of the most fragrant odors. There was an immense number of -little walks, with neat rustic seats for lovers to caress in, from -the disinterested eye; and on my first preambulation, I got lost, and -intruded more than was polite, but I did not know the importance of -this discretion, until I perilously saw the danger. Had I gone on -without stopping, I would have led myself to the orchestra, where and -when I could have taken part in the amusement to the approbation of -all present. When I discovered that I did not know what I was about, -I stopped quickly and looked scrutinizingly around those snug little -bowers. All in a minute out came a "bower lover," as furious as a -cat. I asked him "where the ball was;" he discovered that I was no -Frenchman, and could not have meant intrusion; he directed me to go -straight ahead, and I left him in his bliss. - -Like a round pigeon house on the end of pole, I pronounce the -orchestra. A stair ran up to the pigeon house from the platform -round the great pole, or post that supported it. A small enclosure -was under the orchestra and occasionally the band would descend to -the platform to play. Round this orchestra they danced. The -spectators seemed to be exclusively foreigners; they made a ring -around the gay lotharios as unbroken as the one they made around the -orchestra. The bassy and fluty melodious Band, discoursed the -sweetest waltz that ever tickled my admiration. Off they glided like -a scared serpent, winding their curvy way as natural as if they were -taking their chances. There they come! But there is some still going -in the ranks, and there is still a vacancy. Twice they have made the -circuit, and the hoop is complete. Now to me it is all dizziness, and -it all looked to me as a moving body of muses from times of yore. -Occasionally my eye would cling to a couple for an instant, but this -was occasioned by the contrast between a large, fat, and heavy -gentleman, that had become a troublesome neighbor to all that chose -to get in his way. Whenever any of the lighter footed would discover -their close proximity to his Appollo pedestals, like a shooting star -they would flit away, and leave him monarch of all he surveyed. - -I wish to describe a few of the most conspicuous, but I will wait for -a quadrille, where I can get them to take their places in -description. - -The name of my valet de place is Oscar. - -"Oscar, what nation does that puny looking, red-skinned man belong -to?" "A _Maltese_," said he, as if he never would stop sounding the -ese, but he added the "I believe." I afterwards found out that he was -some of the Canary Island's stock; but the best of the stock. A -beautiful French girl held him by the hind part of his coat with her -left hand, whilst she held with her right his hand, lest he might go -off in his glee, "half shot." She was also afraid that some -interested lady might take better care of him than herself. He was -fashionably dressed, and in Paris, as a nabob, His actions -represented some rich man's foolish son. - -I swear by my father's head, I see a live Turk! Turban! sack hanging -between his legs, more empty than Falstaff's! one of the genuine -breed that followed Saladin to the plains of Palestine and stood -before Richard's battle-axe with his scimitar! one of the head -choppers of Christians! Perhaps the next will be the amiable -countenance of "Blue Beard." The old Turk and his beard is trying to -dance, but his bag won't let him. He is let down, and goes off the -track. He is now mixing some oakum with tobacco. Now he is looking -on, like a poor boy at a frolic--yes! he would if he could. I am sure -his first duty to-morrow will be to hunt a mosque and give up -dancing. He is leaving and trying to get his money back. - -I walked round on the opposite side, and saw several other -incomprehensibles. "What tall, fine looking, yellow skinned man is -that, Oscar, with that tall lady standing looking on?" "That, sir," -said he, "is a very rich quadroon from Louisiana, I believe New -Orleans. He lives at No. 4, _Boulevard Possoniere_, when he is in -town, but he has his country residence nine miles in the country. He -has a very handsome French lady for a wife, and it is said he left -New Orleans on account of their prejudice to color. He is a very -popular man here, and is said to be worth $150,000." Just then I saw -Mr. Holbrook, of the New Orleans Picayune, and Mr. Fellowes of the -firm of Fellowes & Co., step up to this man and shake him warmly by -the hand, and said, "Mr. Cordevoille, don't you know me? I patronized -your tailor's shop five or six years." Cordevoille had been the -largest tailorizer in the South, and accumulated a large fortune, and -sold out to his partner, Mr. Lacroix, who still is carrying on the -firm under the name and style of Cordevoille & Lacroix. Mr. -Cordevoille was looking the very picture of a gentleman; he seemed to -be a great object of respect to those that spoke to the lady he was -conversing with in the French tongue. He reminded me more of Prince -Albert in his manners than any other person around. Had his face not -been pock marked, he would have conveyed a conception of an inferior -Appollo; his _tout ensemble_ had as many brilliant cuts of a true -gentleman's conduct, as the single diamond he wore. After some -enquiry about New Orleans, he invited some American gentlemen to his -country seat; it was to be on the following day, and they being high -toned gentlemen of sense, they accepted, not so much for pleasure -and information, as for giving Mr. Cordevoille to understand that -they understood the duty of gentlemen; no doubt they felt that if -they refused, Mr. Cordevoille might feel the weight of such a -refusal. They agreed also to stay all night, which invitation had -been extended by Mr. Cordevoille. Lest it be a censure on these -gentlemen, I refrain from going any further with a subject so -delicate. - -I now walked under the roof of a very extensive hall; in it was all -kinds of refreshments. All one side of the hall was a door, so that -when the crowd in the garden was likely to be overtaken by a shower, -dancing went on in there. Immense crowds were seated about at tables -smoking, and discussing politics, but not one gentleman had his foot -on the table, except an American quietly seated in one corner in a -profound soliloquy. He was chewing tobacco. I did'nt stop to see -where he spit, for fear he might claim nationality. I learned that -several of the quietly seated, were members of the National Assembly. -It was now getting late, and gentlemen that had pretty mates were -going through the gates in compact succession. Why gentlemen with -pretty mates could not stay to the last was a mystery to me. But to -solve that mystery I followed the crowd, and discovered that the -nearer they got home, the more affectionate they got. - -The most of these couples would stop at the first _cafe_ and call for -their _tass du coffee_ and _vere d'eau de vie_ (cup of coffee and -glass of brandy). They would set the brandy on fire and burn the -spirits out, and then pour it into the coffee. As soon as they began -to feel the effects of this pleasant nourishment, they would move -again for home. - -At 11 o'clock at night carriages were running in all directions from -Balls, Theatres, Operas, Museums, Concerts, Soirees, Dancing Schools, -and more amusements than could be named in one article. - -I went to the hotel, seeking my own amusement. I could not conjecture -a more comfortable place than the house I roomed at, after seeing all -this night's bustle. Even if I could not find my own room, I was in -the house of acquaintances. - -I went to the room of an acquaintance, and talked and lingered in -agreeable conversation and amusement until near day. I approached my -own chamber, and found that whilst I was out helping to make a city -of dissipators, Elvereta had been to my room and arranged my wardrobe -_comme foi_. This ends my "first night in Paris." - - - - -I MUST ROVE AWAY FROM PARIS. - - -Here is the middle of August, nearly a month of uninterrupted sight -seeing has passed away, and my curiosity is surfeited. I am now on -the eve of roving away to "the hilly Oberland," where I will tire my -limbs on the rocky Alps, and crave the comfort I here have enjoyed. I -know I am but leaving Paris to enjoy the anxiety to get back. - -Four days are gone by, and I have spent half a day at Chalon, and one -at Lyons, the "silk city." In this last half a day, I saw more -manufactories than I ever saw in one town. It is said that machines -to the enormous power of two hundred horse, are in some of these -factories. From 50 to 60,000 hands are engaged in manufacturing silk -daily. This is a very rich looking city, and must indeed, be very -rich. It is no doubt an older city than Paris. If a man was brought -here blindfolded, after beholding its magnificence and wealth, he -might easily be led to believe he was at the Capitol of France. - -Another day is gone, and finds me not less fleeting. I am away up the -Rhone, at "_Aix le Bain_." This romantic little town of a few -thousand inhabitants, has the celebrity of chronology of 700 years -before the Christian era. It points to some warm baths, which it is -named after, as its grey hairs; and of which was its phoenix. The -Romans built it up on account of its feasibility of becoming a -"national bath tub" of Gaul. Under the ground, as far as the ambition -of a Roman chooses to go, these baths could be made profitable. There -are now from eight to ten stone walled rooms, where all a man has to -do to put the bath in readiness, is to open the door. - -Some 200 or 300 Frenchmen were here passing away the summer, enjoying -themselves fishing, dancing and gaming, for there is a very rich bank -in a splendid Casino, to draw that class of France that live on -excitement, I saw one American here who was broke. He wanted to -relate his misfortunes to me, but I did not wish to hear them, as I -was well posted before he tried to post me. - -I am intercepted on all sides, as I step off the steps of the hotel, -by donkey boys, who are indeed anxious to have me take a ride to a -little old city not far away, but in Savoy. It is impossible to tell -a good donkey from a bad one by his looks, and each boy assures me -that his donkey is the best in Aix. By way of proving it to me, he -gives me the word of an American that rode him the summer before; but -were I an Englishman instead of what he took me to be, he would have -had other testimonials more influential. But what these little good -natured plagues say is true, so far as the words of their patrons are -to be trusted; it would be very indecorous to ride his little donkey -three or four miles and have the little owner to run along behind all -the time and whip and beat the poor donkey, and then get off and walk -in without saying he was a "good donkey," "the best you ever saw." -That pleases the little fellows. His donkey is worth 5 or $6, and to -run down his little stock, would be no part of a gentleman. - -August is not yet gone, but I am a long way from Paris. Here I am, at -the "City of Watches," Geneva, and lake Leman. Never did a better -opportunity present itself to man, to make a good impression, than -this beautiful day presents Geneva to me, her visitor. Not a cloud -intervenes to Mount Blanc's snow clad peak, fifty odd miles away, and -it looks as if it was merely over yonder hill, to the right of -Byron's house, which is not two miles away. It reminds me of a still -cloud, over a sun-set that indicates fair weather to-morrow. As Mount -Blanc is covered with snow here in August, it makes another mountain -of a lesser height that lies between here and Mount Blanc, appear as -if its top was painted red. Mount Blanc, standing beyond, with her -white capped peak, through the intervening heat of this hot day, the -small one may well resemble a fiery painted mountain. This is the -edge of Switzerland, and still the French is the prevalent language, -which language seems destined to be universal throughout Europe. - -After looking over some of the watch factories, I went to Mount Blanc -on horses, and stayed two days at the a city at its base, and went -across the country to Vevey, a small town on lake Leman. To my -astonishment I saw two Americans here. One was Dr. Elliot, of -Louisville, Ky., and the other Mr. N., of New Orleans. The old Dr. -was very glad to see me. He and I had been sick companions together -on the steamship Africa, where and when we both wished that we had -never heard of Europe, but now that we were out of the slough, and -traveling over the Republican land of Wm. Tell in the very best -health and spirits, and like the roe and buck, we were happy in these -Highlands. - -Vevey is a very handsomely situated village, one would not forget it -after seeing its picturesque groups of vineyards and rustic huts, -interspersed with fairy-like palaces. It is a lively little place, -and a great many English and rich Switzers come here in the dog days -of summer. - -After staying at Vevey a couple of days, I hired a carriage and -plodded on over this hilly land to Switzerland's Capital, Bern. Bern -is a very dull looking place, and most especially so for a Capitol. -The second story of the houses hang over the pavement, so you can -walk the town without getting wet. The language generally is German, -so you see the close alliance of languages in Switzerland. - -Five days more; I am in the Great Oberland, among the towering Alps. -I traversed the whole of the valley of Interlaken, to the almost -hidden village of Interlaken. The hotels are all small, generally not -more than ten rooms, and are called pensions; queer name to create -an appetite with. - -English come here in summer for cheap living; there is also some -Americans with patience enough to stay a short time and strengthen -their means, that are most too frequently consumed at Paris, -Brussels, or Vienna. As you leave the village to take a tour in a -carriage up the great valley, you pass the ruins of an ancient -castle, which once was the court of an ancient and noble race, whose -ancestors are not to be traced, whose names was Unspunnin. A young -knight belonging to another court scaled the walls and stole away -Ida, the last male descendant's daughter, and made her his bride. -Many years of bloody strife followed, after which the young knight -came forth to Burkard, the lord of this castle and father of Ida, -with his infant son in his arms and offered himself up, when the old -man went into tears and made Rudolph's infant son heir of his -numerous estates. - -Farther up the valley a place is pointed out where a great murder was -committed, and a noble young knight was the doer of the deed. He -could never rest afterwards, so he fled from the sight of man, and -has never been heard of since. In the immense vallies of perpetual -glaciers, the snow has lain for thousands of years, and where the -mountains drip upon the glaciers below, crevasses are made through -and under. It is supposed that this knight crept into one of these -and there froze up his heart, unseen by father, mother, sister, -brother, friend or acquaintance. - -This part of Switzerland is unlike any other part. It is nothing but -mountains and small lakes. The lakes are as apt to be found on the -tops of mountains as in vallies. From these large basins of water on -top of mountains, are crevasses running through side rocks, and -falling off makes the crevasses through and under the glaciers as I -have described. - -But here is a specimen of the intelligence of the Switzers of olden -time. It is a little old town with a wall round it, and a hill close -up to the wall all round. The walls could have done no more good than -the hill if there was any spunk in the builders. The lake of Lucern -comes up to this bigoted little spot. Its appelation is in honor of -this important lake of catfish and suckers. It has a piece of art, -too, a lion sculptured in the side of a rock outside the walls. It is -the most natural artificial lion I ever saw. Here is Zurich, the -prettiest city in Switzerland, notwithstanding Byron's praise of -Geneva. Here is the famed "Zurich waters." The people here have not -that staring stupidity so characteristic of the Swiss in other towns. -They are all going along about their business as if they had lived -among strangers all their lives. It is a thriving town, and they -manufacture silks here on quite an extensive scale. In conclusion, -Switzerland is a Republic, and all parts, except the ruggedest -mountains, is in the highest state of cultivation. Wine and wheat -are among their chief studies. They are devout christians. Every mile -of their highways there is an image of the Son of Mary hung high up -by the roadside, denoting his suffering, patience and forbearance. -The Swiss are not a homely people. Their country is too mountainous -for railroads. - - - - -SPICY TOWNS IN GERMANY. - - -Having passed over the borders of Switzerland and Germany, and -through the first German town, called Friedsburg, I will linger a -while at Strasborg. It was once the Capitol of many provinces. In -times gone by, many centuries ago, it was called the Roman's -"Argentoratum," and experienced more than a few of the miseries of -war. The tallest piece of monumental art the world ever had recorded -on the pages of its Chronology, not even the Tower of Babel excepted, -is here in this city of over two thousand years old. Its name is the -Munster, and ought to have been Monster. It is a Church, and was -three hundred years in process of erection. It is 474 feet from the -earth, and to give a clearer perception of its height, it is 24 feet -higher than the Pyramids of Egypt. In it is that famous clock, made -three hundred years ago, which runs yet. This clock might justly have -an other half added to its name, _clock_. Many people flock there -every day to see its manoeuvres. At 12 o'clock, or a few minutes -before twelve, wooden men, representing the Apostles or Priests, come -out of the clock, and some inferior personages also, and march a -short distance and waits a few minutes to be warned of the hour, -then this waited for moment is signalized by a brass cock coming out -of the clock on the other side, which flaps its wings three times and -crows, after which this group of old men returns to their vestry of -study or seclusion, and the clock clicks on as it has done for three -hundred years, and the crowd disperses. - -The streets are crowded with soldiers, as in Paris, and the ladies go -about the streets holding up their dresses just the right height to -attract attention. - -The rain is over, and there is no more attraction in the spicy town -of Strasborg, so I am going to Baden Baden, the spiciest gambling -place in Europe. In the Park is a great large building in the shape -of a country stable, but full of splendor, called a Casino or -conversation room, and this conspicuous appellation is conspicuously -written on the front of the building. In this open hall--open to -all--is gambling hours between each meal. The great gambling table is -in the centre with numerous stools, such as are to be found in -Stuarts, or any other fashionable Dry Goods store in America. On -these stools are all classes of society that like excitement--dukes, -earls, marquises, barons, knights, valets, and even liveried -coachmen, betting from 5 francs to 10,000 francs. While I was in the -Casino the Prince of Prussia broke the bank. Only thirty thousand -francs is allowed in the Bank at once, and if broken no more business -or amusement goes on that day in that Cassino; but there are others -dealing on the same platform. - -It is quite amusing to see the anxiety written on the brow of -players, and to see the expression of disinterested persons, which we -in America term "stuck on the game." I have seen more excruciating -pain come from an outsider by the loss of some pile of gold, than I -ever saw come from the expression of the loser. Here comes a Count -who has been betting and losing on another bank, and he came to -change his luck. He threw down his last thousand and it won; he let -it all stand on the red, and this time it all goes into the bank. He -exclaims, "that's my luck." Then the outsiders would cast an eye of -pity on him, and say, he might have known that he would lose it, when -the very reason they were not betting, was, they were broke on the -same bank perhaps a week ago. I see six beautiful noble ladies -betting, with their money snugly piled up before them. Their bets -generally range from twenty to one hundred francs. But the most -amusing part of this crowd's entertainment is, the airs that the -money scampers put on. If a lady or gentleman should win, he pays it -with an air of nonchalence and great pleasure; but if he wins, which -he is sure to do in the end, he looks very melancholy, as if it were -the result of accident, and in his opinion it was very vulgar for the -bank to win. I put down a five franc piece, it won; I let the ten -stand, it won; I let the twenty stand, it won; I moved it, and it -lost, and I quit. He attempted to console me by saying I ought to -have let it stand where it was, "what do you bet on now sir," said -he; I don't bet any more said I, I have already lost five francs. He -took me to be a green Yankee and said no more to me. Another amusing -sight was there; it was two more broken American youths, who said -they were waiting for Mr. Peabody to forward them money, and was -"sound on the borry." I did'nt pride myself much here on my -nationality, lest I would have some unprofitable fame. One of them -owed two weeks' board in the British Hotel. He was mighty polite when -he met me in company, and placed me under the truly painful necessity -of being introduced to some person of note whom he had himself been a -bore upon. He asked me if I was acquainted with the Grand Duke, at -the same time looking over the heads of the players, as if he would -call him if he could only get his eye on him. Then he insisted on my -going down to the other Bank, where the chances were better, and -where the Grand Duke of Baden would most likely be. I declined all -invitations, and got a carriage and went out of town to see the ruins -of the Erhreinstein Castle. - -Having returned and paid my bill, I left this little German town to -go to Heidelburg, where once dwelled a good Castilian, Frederick the -1st, of the Palatinate. - -James lived between Baden Baden and Heidelberg two or three years, -and wrote the two following novels, which gives a better history of -these, the Castles of Heidelberg and Erhreinstein, than any other -history gives or can be obtained at present. He lived at Carlsruth. -The Grand Duke lives at Baden Baden, and Carlsruth, and Heidelberg, -and he is here now at Heidelberg, and was here when my American -friend was hunting him in the Casino. - -Tilly, the great French general, blew up the front side of this -castle in 1620, since which all its magnificence has been known but -as tradition. The picture gallery still remains perfect, that is to -say, some wings of it. There is many talented artists now grouped -about in its rural halls, for the grass has grown up in them, taking -copies of these splendid pictures. The city of Heidelberg which this -castle overlooks, is quite a large city for a German interior town. I -was told by my landlord that its population was upwards of 60,000. -The cellar of the old ruins still contains its wine casks. I saw one -cask or vat said to hold 60,000 bottles of wine. Ten men can dine -round a King Arthur's round table on its head. In the cellar is the -statue of one of King Frederick's fools, with one side of his face -painted green and one half of his hair red, whilst the other is not. -He drank eighteen bottles of wine each day and lived one hundred -years. Father Matthew never heard of that juice of such admirable -longevity, or it would have clapped the cap on his spouting -eloquence. German towns are spicy towns. Outside of the city, just -across the Necker, is to be two duels to-day with short swords, and -they fight duels on that duelling ground every day, either students -or other citizens. It is considered a small gladiatorial arena. The -Grand Duke is about to leave for Carlsruth, and the people are -parading with great glee. Children women and men are crowding the -gates in solid batallions; you would think old Zack had come to town. - -I am dizzy with reflections of these fast little towns of Germany. As -I whirl along now towards the cradle of the Rothschild's my brain is -rocking its reflective matter from the canton of the quiet and -religious Swiss here to the burghers of this profane people. But here -I am, in the independent little territory of the Duchess of -Darmstadt. Each mile-post is painted barber-pole style. This Duchess -is better known as the Duchess of Nassau. The cars stopped at -Darmstadt, and if a good big southern barber's shop had been here the -people all would have gone in it instead of Darmstadt by mistake. The -gates are barberified in its style of designation. - -I saw an American looking out of the cars at these posts until he -felt his beard. All at once he threw himself back in his seat, as if -he thought the country was too dull to look at, and of course -impossible to produce anything sharp enough to take off beards. - -Frankfort may be strictly termed the capitol of Germany; because all -the German Princes meet here once a year and hold a conference on the -great topics of interest to the whole German people. This gathering -is called the Diet. This Diet enacts for the German principalities, -some of the most wholesome and sound logical laws that comes from the -parliament of any nation of these modern times. Frankfort has -produced the most sagacious merchants the world ever knew. I have -just been to look at Goethe's house. It has stood the scathing -weather of the main for five hundred years, but none of the -calamities of time have laid their fingers upon it, save a slight -decay. - -"Frankfort on the Oder" must not be misconstrued so as to convey an -idea of this Frankfort. This is generally designated as Frankfort on -the Main. It is a town full of high spirited people, and lively as -crickets, but less sedate. Business is always good here. Each man is -in some degree possessed with the ambition of a Rothschild. I am -going to see the house of the primitive Rothschild, and then off to -the Rhine. - -Here I am at Mainz, on the banks of the Rhine. Looking at my ticket -down the Rhine, I see this is the 17th of September, but the weather -indicates summer time. This old, dead, but vast town, has the -distinction allotted to it of producing the first book printer. - -I will not attempt, as most chroniclers, to describe the impression -the legend river of Europe made on me; suffice it to say that, on -every peak, and that is saying a good deal, is the ruins of tyrants, -and every hole that is made through these turrets, sends out a woeful -wisp of a "Blue Beard's wrath," that quickens the pulse of a modern -civilian. - -I am now in town, at a great hotel, called Disch. Here is a very old -city, and in old times Roman emperors were proclaimed here. The wife -of Germanicus, Aggrippa, the mother of the tyrant that "fiddled" -whilst Rome was burning, was born here. In this city is a church -which has already cost four millions of florins, and is not finished -yet. In this church is one of the most imposing pieces of splendor -the eye of man ever gazed on. Inside of this case of jewels is three -skulls filled with jewels. They glitter about in the nose and eyes -and ears like moving maggots, and causes man to gaze with amazement -upon the peculiarities of the people of German towns. Its name is -Cologne. Its modern merit is its production of Colognes, not little -towns, but the fluid possessing requisite qualifications of -admittance to the private apartment of the sweetest virgin. - -I must now bring this chapter to a close and go down among the -Dutch. - - - - -DOWN AMONG THE DUTCH. - - -Having been disappointed in seeing a magnificent city, and smelling -one, I am rapidly running down the Rhine to the Netherlands--Holland -among the Dutch. These boats are hardly worth mentioning, more than -to say they have steam and a crew. The crew are very stupid looking; -mind you I say stupid looking, but I don't mean to say they are -stupid. They have nothing to say or do with the passengers. They -don't leave their watch and come to the cabin to sit a minute and -talk with passengers, and occasionally "take a hand" at a game, as -they do on our inferior boats running the Yazoo, Arkansas, Red and -Black River, until the boiler hisses, or the boat snags. They are -slow but sure. - -In the cabin, which is below, is a sufficient number of small tables -in restaurant style, and whoever eats does it _a la carte_. If you -eat what is worth only fifteen grochens, you only pay fifteen -grochens; but, if you eat one hundred grochens' worth, you will pay -one hundred grochens; not one cent over or under is required, for the -Dutch, as a class, are a reasonable, just and inoffensive people, -therefore wish nothing but fair understanding and dealing. They -always keep an interpreter on a cheap scale, to enable them to get -along without difficulty. He was either a waiter, dish washer or -potato-peeler, but on a no more expensive scale. They are the last -people I am acquainted with to count unhatched chickens. - -Captain Husenhork, I understand, is a gentleman and a good humored -man, but the eye of a lynx would have a task to catch a smile upon -his hickory countenance. He brought an old Dutch musket on deck for -me to amuse myself with, shooting at snipe along the dykes. I shot -into their midst several times, but they all flew up, circled around -and lit at the same place. I never before saw so many of this style -or genera of bird. Their bills was the most conspicuous part of them. - -The boat is now turning to land at a pretty large town called -Arnheim; but Holland is so low that a man cannot see the spires of a -city until he enters its walls. - -Holland is one vast marsh. It is dyked so as to drain each acre, but -it is the richest soil in Europe, and its productiveness is so -profitable that its owners would not swop it for the land of Goshen. -It has nourished a people that seem to be well adapted to its nature; -the forbearance of the Dutch people is not to be equalled by any. The -labor required to till such soil as Holland's, has been the best -friend to the Hollanders, for no people on the earth enjoys the labor -as does a Holland farmer, and no people could make it so profitable. -In taking a hack ride a few miles in the country around Arnheim, I -can say the nurseries are unsurpassed by Switzerland, the Hanse -States, or France. - -Having gossiped in Arnheim two days, I called for my bill, paid it, -packed my trunk for Amsterdam. Wine being such an extravagant item I -thought I would enquire into it, as I might get some information why -it was so much more in Holland than the other parts of the Rhine. I -found that wine was an imported liquor, consequently, the duty made -the difference between wine on that side of the Rhine and the other. -A swilly beer is most universally the beverage of the Netherlands. -The clerk supposing that I was not satisfied with the length of my -bill, took it in his inspection and examined it carefully, and said, -"Sir, you eat snipe." "Well is that any reason you should make my -bill like a snipes?" "Yes sir," said he, "it is extra." "All right, -sir, I did not ask you about any part of the bill except wine." Next -day I was in Amsterdam, the wealthiest city of Holland. It is a city -of canals; they run through all the main parts of the town, leaving a -large side-walk on each side. Some pretty large ships are in the -heart of the town. Bridges run across the canals, but they revolve on -hinges and are easily turned. - -The gayest time of Amsterdam is dead winter. Then the Zuyder Zee and -all its canals are frozen over, when ladies and gentlemen are skating -night and day. Vessels sail charmingly on the ice, but their bottoms -are made for the ice instead of water. Balls and pic-nic parties are -numerous in winter. The Amsterdam ladies are all healthy looking. I -saw half a dozen ladies yesterday shooting snipe, when I rode out to -Saandam. They had on nice little boots and moved among the high grass -like skilful hunters. At Saandam I registered my name in the little -"book of names," in the house of Peter the Great, Emperor of Russia. -He ran away from Russia and came here and rented this little house -with only two rooms, and lived in poverty here, to learn to build -ships. Hollandaise builders worked with him a year at a time, but -knew not that it was Peter the Great, of the Russias. The little -frame hut is three hundred years old, but has been preserved on -account of its strange and novel history. - -26th of September, and I am at the capitol of Holland, The Hague. The -King lives here, about a quarter of a mile from my hotel, the -"Bellevue." But I just dined with a King. The father of the Queen is -the old King of Wurtemburg, and he is putting up here, and we have a -guard of honor at our door. He is going out--he bows to me. - - - - -COL. FELLOWES LEARNING DUTCH. - - -I must now introduce the reader to an American "merchant Prince," -better known by his associates as the "Prince of Good Fellows." This -is Cornelius Fellowes, of the respectable firm of Messrs. Fellowes & -Co., of New Orleans, La. He is rather more than a medium size man, -and straight as an exclamation point, with handsome limbs. He cannot -be justly termed handsome, without adding _man_. His face was the -color of a last year's red apple all free from decay; his hair is -light for black, and not very thick on top, and he is aged 48 years. -He is no politician, statesman, or orator, but as a business man, he -is "sound on the goose." I know of no man that could settle business -disagreements to the entire satisfaction of both, better than Mr. -Fellowes. He would have made a profound judge, his heart and talent -alike is so justly qualified. He is a very liberal and extravagant -man, more so than any man I am acquainted with, but he is by no means -a benevolent man; I don't mean to say that he is stingy, for he is -not, but I mean to indicate that he always has some original idea of -his own to make him give; for example, if a group of little ragged -girls come around him begging, he will instantly feel his pockets, -and take out all the change, but the most of it would go into the -hands of the prettiest or cleanest, at the same time saying, "this is -a pretty little girl," and if there is any left they will be sure to -get the remainder. Or if a group of little boys are the beggars, he -will give the most to the smartest, and exclaim, "he is a smart -little fellow." And sometimes he is conscious of this partiality, and -tries to evade it by throwing the coin among the boys to see them -scuffle for it, but this trait of his is so marked, that he will be -sure to throw it on his favorite's head, and if he fails to catch it, -it is a sure sign of another chance for the boys. He laughs heartily -when his boy catches it, as if it done his soul good. He is so proud, -or haughty, or perhaps I had better say, naturally aristocratic, that -he can descend from his sphere to vulgar without knowing it, and -joke, laugh, and even offer some of his drink, but if you forget -yourself, he will recollect himself. He can treat a free colored man -as polite as he can a poor white one, and a class that are below them -must be in his estimation what they are. - -He is a man with no enemies; I don't believe he has one, and he -himself hates no man, and in fact is always happy, jovial, and -scarcely ever disappointed with his calculations of things and -people. Whatever the Col. does, he does well, but he always puts it -off until it can be delayed no longer. If he makes up his mind that -he must go up the river, and look in the affairs of his agents or -debters, he will appoint next week, but four or five weeks will -follow in succession, but as next week must eventually come, he -battles with that until the last day. Saturday he leaves on the last -boat, and, is his most interested partner abler than another man to -tell when he will ever turn his face home, or whether he will stop at -Natchez, or Memphis, for what convinced him at 2 o'clock Saturday -that he had better get off that evening, was as much the departure of -his friends on that boat, as the conviction that these affairs of his -must be looked into. When he wants a partner in any of his various -traffics, he never looks for a man with capital, but one that -understands what his views are, and would feel an aspiring interest, -so much so as to devote all his time and talent and scrutiny to its -development of prosperity in the end, if not at first. His object -seems more the perfection of the business than its profits; but at -the end of the year of business, which is the first day of September, -if there is no profit, and he is not very deeply in, he will not be -inclined to risk much, but he sticks like a leech, and this year must -pay the loss of last. He will bleed some branch of this business -before he lets go. The balance sheet of the firm of Messrs. Fellowes -and Co., foots per annum about $140,000 to $170,000 profit; but if he -lost by giving up some of his planters that have made a good crop, -$10,000, he thinks that he managed badly, and goes about finding who -they are connected with, and whether they wish to come back again. He -will now furnish them with more means than he refused them when they -left him. No man can get along with a planter better than Cornelius -Fellowes; for he considers a planter, or slave holder, his equal in -every particular; consequently feels himself at home with them. A -planter looks at a merchant as his agent until they become the -leading houses in their community, then they are honored in having -the great merchant to stay a few days and hunt. But when they go to -New Orleans they expect to be waited on by the merchant, when to -their great disgust, the merchant sends his clerk to look after their -wants; and the merchant, instead of persuading them to come and put -up at his house, or dine with him, has other friends more congenial -to his taste and dignity, than the planter with his Sunday suit of -store made clothes. But as Mr. Fellowes never cares much for looks or -position, and as he is an old bachelor and never had a house, and a -slave holder is his equal, he hesitates not to go to the ladies -ordinary and order his seat at table, and call on the rustic -gentleman and family to dine with him, where they drink such wine as -they would most likely take at home for stump water and cider. But -this familiarity will tell upon the nerves of Mr. Fellowes, for he -does not like to feel himself obliged to do any thing, and they will, -in this good mood, invite him to the opera, theatre, or most likely -the circus. Now this stumps his benevolent feelings to those who -need no benevolence; he has his club mates, or the gaieties of -Orleans to meet, where are to be found the very men he must touch -glasses or whif a cigar with. He is now puzzled. He will let them -know before dark, but will have their tickets for them already. He -surely will be found missing; he says to himself "it will not do to -refuse them without a good and plausable excuse," therefore he plans -in his mind. He calls on one of his numerous clerks, and requests him -to take an amount of money and go and buy so many tickets, and -requests him further to call on Mr. Brown, and make an excuse, and -offer to accompany him and the ladies to the amusement in view. These -rich, bustle-dressed, young girls are diamonds in the eyes of young -clerks; and young clerks in the best houses are Adonises to what -these girls are used to. They soon become agreeable, and when they -return home, Sam Smith, their next neighbor, is treated as he -deserves to be by civilized beings. Soon after a letter comes to Mr. -Clerk from this plantation, with a lady's scrawl, care Fellowes & -Co., and Mr Fellowes delights to find that his suggestion of this -young man met the entire approbation of the favorite of the old -farmer. The fact is Mr. Fellowes can kill more birds with one stroke -of his policy, than any other man that studies so little. Mr. -Fellowes is never in so bad a humour as when he treats one kindly, -and it is unkindly returned, to illustrate this, I must drop this -epitome of his history, and carry the reader to the Capitol of -Holland, where Mr. Fellowes is trying to learn something of this -slow and easy people. He was smoking his segar when the King of -Wurtimburg went out, but took no notice of him, because he was -engaged with a group of beggar boys, throwing stivers at them. An -English gentleman that had lived in the Indies, was by us, and we had -travelled on the Rhine together. "Let us go down to the sea, five -miles off, and see the Dutch fisheries. I understand they are -extensively engaged in fishing, Mr. Grant," said Col. Fellowes. "I -have been there, Mr. Fellowes," said the Englishman, "but will go -again with you, though I know you will be annoyed with these plagued -beggars." "O," said Mr. Fellowes, "I like to see them, with their -large wooden shoes, jumping after the grochens, and further, they are -a great people, and I wish to find out a great deal about their -habits and manners; I think I shall stay here a week." The fame of -the Col. had reached the remotest corner of the Hague, and squads of -two and three were seen in all directions coming to the Bellevue -House. Here our lacquey brought before the door a fine turnout, and -he jumped in and drove away like a prince, whilst they followed on -all sides, some hundreds of yards, like Fallstaff's soldiers, ready -to run from any one they found they were close to that knew them -except their abject leader. In a few moments we were down on the -North sea. It was very cold down on the beach, but fishermen were -walking in the sea from their smacks, with hamper baskets full of all -kinds of fish. Their vessels that had been two days seining, was -full of fish, but as these vessels could get no nearer than a quarter -of a mile to land, they always fill their bushel basket, and shoulder -it, and walk through the surging waves on the beach, on whose sand -was pyramids of fish piled up, to be sold at a zwanzich bushels -(about 25 cents). Sometimes they would disappear in the waves with -the fish, but would appear soon again nearer shore, plodding on -patiently. - -Whilst Col. Fellowes was reading a description of this fish point, -the lacquey explained a conversation he had with six or seven beggars -off a rod from us. He said they were anxious to know who we three -fellows were, and had dubbed Mr. Fellowes "Count of New York." I was -son of the Count, and would eventually become Count of the Amsterdam, -of the Empire state. Mr. Grant was dignified with the royal -appellation of "Duke of Brunswick." They certainly found more curious -matter in the polish of our glazed boots, than we did at their large -wooden trotters, that at every step rattled against the others, who -stood so close together as to form a bouquet of dirty Dutch heads of -various colors. - -Having informed Mr. Fellowes of his new made honor, he laughed -heartily, and called them nearer to corroborate the information that -they had been so lucky to find out, by throwing among them some of -his revenue of the city named after their great Amsterdam. The Col. -threw stavers and grochens until he astonished the natives. Some -jumped clear over other's heads. Now the Col. was in his glory. This -was Friday, and they had'nt eaten anything, but from their movements -and agility, you would swear "they would make hay while the sun -shines." Their strange movements was not only a signal for miles up -the beach, but the fishermen had abandoned their smacks, and were -coming through the surf, and under it. The Col. here run out of -money, and called on my money bag, which was hanging under my arm -like a bird bag, and was full of various coins, from Louis d' Or's of -twenty franc pieces, to the smallest denominations. I gave small coin -until I thought he had thrown away enough, and then cried broke. Mr. -Grant and myself drew back from the Col., and he was beseiged. He -told them he was broke, at the same time feeling all his pockets, -whilst they was looking all around him for pockets he might overlook. -About sixty or seventy had circled him, and we were laughing to -ourselves because we saw he was vexed and felt himself in a dilemma. -The little Dutch had almost fell down in the sand by his feet, and -was feeling up his pantaloons leg to see if some was not dropping. -One old honest Dutchman that had been carefully examining Mr. -Fellowes coat tail, had come across his white handkerchief, and took -it round in front and returned it. Here Mr. Fellowes showed tokens of -fear, and he hallowed out, "Lacquey, why don't you take a stick and -beat them off, don't you see they are robbing me?" "No sir, that -handkerchief he thought was something that you had overlooked -sticking to your clothes, and he brought it to your notice," said the -lacquey. "Then tell them I am broke and drive them off." "Yes, sir, -if I can." Here he went to work in earnest, explaining that the Count -had run out of money but he had a plenty in the Bank, and they could -get no more to-day. Then they went away about a rod and seemed buried -in reflection. They started to come again, but the Col. backed, while -the lacquey appealed to their reason by informing them that were it -the king himself, he could not carry all his money with him. Mr. -Fellowes shook himself and tried to put on a pleasing countenance, -but we could not for our lives maintain our gravity at his lesson of -familiarity while learning Dutch. - -We walked up the beach, and conversed on the subject of the North Sea -and Sir John Franklin, when all of a sudden Mr. Fellowes called to -the coachman to drive up. I looked around and saw the beggars coming. -We lost no time in retreating. While passing through the gates of the -city, I noticed a bronze lion placed in the position of a guardian -over it. I said, what an awful condition Daniel must have been in -when in the lion's den. "No worse," said the Col. "than I was in with -the Dutch!" Here a boy opened a door on the Col.'s side, that he -might descend. As the Col. stepped out, he alighted on the Dutchman's -wooden shoe, and tripped himself up. As he picked himself up and -moved towards the hotel door, he exclaimed in an under tone, d----n -the Dutch. - -It must not be supposed that Mr. Fellowes meant any harm to the -Dutch, but, they were not in his opinion, as agreeable as they might -be. He left next day, although he intended staying a week "learning -Dutch." - - - - -ON! ON! TO WATERLOO. - - -Without noting Rotterdam, Holland's lowest town, and Antwerp, an old -Flemish town, I am at the carpet city of Belgium, Brussels, on my way -to Waterloo. I have a little old lacquey I just hired and he is as -cute as a mink. "All ready, sir," said he, "shall I drive you to the -Palace or the Museum?" "No sir, on to Waterloo!" Here the hackman -remonstrated--he was not engaged for twelve miles and only engaged -inside the city walls, and would not go to Waterloo this cold wet day -for less than twenty francs. "Go on, sir," said I, and he traversed -the whole of the Brussels Boulevard before he passed the gates. Here -we are at the battle-field where Wellington rose and Napoleon fell. -Wellington conquered the master of the world. Byron says, in his Ode -on Napoleon,-- - - "'Tis done! but yesterday a king, - And armed with kings to strive; - And now thou art a nameless thing-- - So abject, yet alive" - -He continues:-- - - "Is this the man with thousand thrones - Who strewed our earth with hostile bones, - And can he yet survive? - Since he miscalled the morning star, - Nor man nor fiend hath fallen so far." - -My guide was an old revolutionary soldier who was opposed to the -Bourbons before the days of Charles the 10th. He fought in this -bloody fray, and pleads up fool play on the part of Grouchy. - -Mr. Cotton's clerk sold me a copy of a book giving the details of -this battle, which it took ten years to accumulate the matter for. -Mr. Cotton was in the battle or close to it. In the centre of this -field is now an immense mound, made with the bones of slain warriors. -Small steps run up to its top, and Wellington is a monumental emblem -seated on a horse moving over the field, apparently as natural as -life, pinnacling this mound. - -Having rested my body by leaning on the leg of the horse, I listened -to the harangue of this old man, whose jaws had crept into his mouth, -which was void of teeth. He first pointed out the position of -Grouchy, who was not in the battle, but was Napoleon's climaxing -reserve, off miles in the distance. He now evidently felt some of the -animating spirit of that great day, as, pointing in the same -direction, he showed me the hill over which Blucher came, and made -Napoleon believe that it was his own Grouchy. The old man quieted -his feelings before proceeding farther. He assured me that Napoleon's -heartstrings must have burst at this perfidious conduct of Grouchy. -He believed that Grouchy was so angry with Napoleon for refusing to -let him lead on the battle in the morning instead of French Generals -and Marshals, that he sold himself to the allies. Grouchy was one of -Napoleon's German Generals, and wanted the glory of a battle which, -if lost, would bankrupt the French nation, as they had drained their -coffers to support the ambition of its chief, which, no doubt, was -the greatest general of modern times. The old soldier pointed off to -the right of Blucher's march over the hill, to the French position of -Belle Alliance, and referred to those hours of anxiety from the first -evening Napoleon arrived there and saw the English in the distance, -when he craved the power of Joshua to stop the sun that he might -attack them that day, to the close of the battle, when he mounted his -white steed and started to the carnage, that he might fall among the -slain, and how he was checked by Marshal Soult, which Marshal is yet -living, who said to Napoleon, "They will not slay you but take you -prisoner," upon which he fled from the scene of desolation and -mourning. - -The old soldier now turned languidly round to Hougomont, and there -depicted some of the most daring fighting that ever a juvenile ear -listened to. He said that Napoleon ordered Hougomont to be taken, and -gave so many soldiers for that purpose. Hougomont is a long brick -building, like an old fashioned barracks. It has a hedge of tall -shrubbery in front, looking towards the battle plain. Thousands of -English were stationed there with loop holes only a foot apart, so as -to shoot down all attacks. When the French soldiers went towards the -house to take it, they were shot down one upon another so fast that -the few thousands sent against it were slain before they reached the -hedge, where the French thought the fire came from. Word was sent to -Napoleon that Hougomont could not be taken, and asking for an answer -to the leader. Napoleon glanced once round the field, and said, "Tell -him to take Hougomont," but he reinforced the leader, who said to his -true soldiers, "Let us march up to die, the emperor says, take -Hougomont." When these soldiers heard the orders of their emperor, -they scuffled over the hedge to find the fire of their enemy, but to -their great disappointment it came from the loopholes! but these -daring veterans were not inclined to disobey the great emperor, who -was no more a "little corporal." "They," says history, "marched up to -the muzzles of the English muskets, and grappled with them till they -sank beneath their wrath." Afterwards they took it, but could not -keep it. They took it again and kept it some time, but finally left -it in the hands of the enemy. - -The old man says there were all sorts of reports on the field the -night after the battle concerning the emperor. One was, that he rode -into the fight and fell with the old guard, who made a pyramid over -his body trying to screen him from the blows which fell on him; -others were, that Wellington had him in close confinement, and when -this was told, thousands of mangled men that seemed to be living only -to hear his fate, fell back and died the death that none can die but -a soldier. Next day the news came to the living wounded, that -Napoleon was on his way, if not at Fontainbleau, and the old soldiers -sprang up on their broken limbs, and filled the air with _vive -l'empereur, vive toujours_. - -Blucher and Wellington then commenced preparing to march on Paris and -did. Blucher wanted to burn it but Wellington knew the revengeful -spirit of the nation. He might have burned Paris as his allies -wished, and, like Nero, fiddled while it burned, but all France would -have been annihilated, or London razed to the earth. - -Napoleon sent to Paris to know the Cabinet's opinion of this awful -disaster to her Treasury and dignity. Tallyrand who was at the head -of affairs, advised him to stay away from Paris, for he bankrupted -France, and therefore, must abdicate. Napoleon sent a faithful man to -plead in favor of his son, but Tallyrand said he had cost France -millions of souls, besides bankrupting her, and must leave -unconditionally. - -Next morning this king of a hundred thrones rode out of Fontainbleau -towards Dieppe. He went aboard an English vessel and said, "I am -Napoleon." The old captain trembled as he saw the resemblance of -that cold countenance, whose pictures filled even the hamlets of -England. Struck with this importance, he untied his vessel, drew up -his sail and steered to the admiral. Thus ends this Chapter as it did -Napoleon, whose orders some days ago were, "On to Waterloo." - - - - -THE BIAS OF MY TOUR. - - -Here is Ghent. It is a large city, and a great many of the Brussells -carpets are made here. There is no doubt it is as old a city as -London. It is here the famous "Treaty of Ghent" was made by Henry -Clay and John Adams. I have just been in their old residence, which, -from appearances, must have been one of the best houses in Ghent. A -good deal of silk is manufactured here even now. A great many Flemish -families live here. The city supports an Opera, besides Theatres and -other places of amusement. They are inclined to be Frenchy on the -Sabbath. I went on the Sabbath to see a horse go up in a balloon. -Three men, who paid a certain sum, took passage with the beast, and -as he hung below the balloon, well strapped so he could not kick or -agitate himself, these passengers were seated above; I hated it much, -as the beast looked so melancholy and innocent. I had seen the same -performance at Paris. It was not such a novelty to the horse as to -me, for this was the same horse I had seen at Paris some time before. -Away they went, upward like a cloud, in a hurry toward the sea, and -were soon lost to our sight. - -Another day is gone and leaves me in Bruges; an old quiet city that -figured much in the romantic affairs of Flanders. Bad hotels are -plentiful here, with wise men to keep them, for if a man was to keep -them better, he would soon have to keep none. We were the only -occupants, or even strangers in town. And as we walked out to see its -wonders, we found that our arrival had excited the curiosity of a -hundred beggars. It is a characteristic trait of beggars, to keep -quiet when they see a stranger in town, like a dog with his bone he -wishes the picking of alone. But always betray themselves by waiting -too long about the hotel where their victim resides. They generally -watch the movement of the shrewdest beggar, and keep in his track. -They most always keep themselves concealed from view, until they get -their victim fairly launched; then with the sails of poverty, like -boreas, they will follow him up till they drive his temper straight -into the channel of charity, where we can only find safety in our -acts of humanity. Here I was right for once, because I had procured -an immense quantity of the smallest coin. I called them all up, and -told the lacquey de place to tell them I would give them all I had, -if they would cease to follow us, it was agreed, and I give him about -half a pint of small coin to divide among them; he give it to a -responsible one and they all followed him in counsel. - -I said in August on my departure from Paris, that I was leaving it to -"enjoy the anxiety to get back." Now I am biasing my tour in -verification of that expression. I am now close to Paris, and can go -there to night. It is eleven o'clock at night, and I am at Paris. I -am going to stay this winter, as I am getting used to the life here. -Last night I arrived at the Hotel des Princes; the pretty little -portress was glad to see me, and I felt at home. She asked me if I -wanted a bottle of water with ice inside; she gave me all the news, -and showed me a list of her American occupants, and said the Russian -Princess was gone, not from Paris, but to private rooms. I put a five -franc piece in her hand to convince her I was the same man in all -particulars, and went to my room and looked around for Elverata, who -used to arrange my wardrobe so nice and say, with neatness on her -brow, "How do you like that, Mr. Dorr?" I did not see her and rang -the bell, when a strange waiter came quickly and I enquired for -Elverata; he satisfied the enquiry by saying he was only a few days -there and could not say. I went to bed. Next morning I saw the shadow -of a woman moving towards my drawer, I raised my weary head on my -elbow and said, "Good morning, Elverata." The woman quietly passed -out; I rose and dressed and went to enquire for unpretending -Elverata, but like a plant under the cloud of night, I was seeking a -tear, she was dead! and dead only one month, and everybody had -forgotten her. I had difficulty in that vast hotel to make them -understand who I was seeking. I asked what graveyard she was buried -in, but that, like Elverata, was forgotten. I shall never see her -again! she a good, honest, and religious girl; though nothing here -below, in heaven she will be more than a _femme de chambre_. Some may -well say, - - "Happy those who linger yet - The steep ascent to climb, - For jewels lie like treasures set - Upon the breast of Time." - - - - -COUP D'ETAT OF NAPOLEON III. - - -On the morning of the 3d and 4th of Dec., the fate of Paris, like a -stormy sea, was rocking to and fro in the minds of this versatile and -fickle people. - -On the 2d of December, the morning after the ascent of the members of -the National Assembly, I went to the Boulevards to see how the -populace took this daring of the Presidents. The place was crowded -with groups discussing the importance of this blow to their -liberties. Old, white-headed men were making speeches in different -places within sight. But while they were making speeches Louis -Napoleon was at the Palace decreeing laws for this particular -occasion, and he was not only in the Palace quelling the populace, -but the very same day he rode through the Boulevards at the head of -soldiers, and people shouted _vive l'empereur_. How and why they said -this, when as yet they had none, remains to be seen. That night fifty -or sixty thousand soldiers slept in the streets of Paris, and cavalry -stood close to the side walk for miles without one single break of -ranks. The soldiers had their rations carried to them. Next morning, -the 3d, the rebels commenced their work of destruction in spite of -the soldiers. The news came into Paris from all parts of France that -a hundred thousand soldiers were rapidly marching to the assistance -of the army and sustainance of the republic. But this did not -intimidate the factions. The soldiers though now one hundred thousand -strong, right in the city, they had to keep on the march, up one -street and down another, to keep down the barricade builders. I saw a -strong wall built across a street in a quarter of an hour. They go -about peaceable in droves until they pass the soldiers and then with -pickaxes and crowbars and all manner of iron implements dig up the -flag-stones, door-sills and stone steps, and place them one upon -another until they get them head high. They leave small apertures to -poke their pistols and guns through, and therefrom they fight the -soldiers who cannot, except by accident, shoot through the apertures. -If the soldiers come down behind them to hem them in, they jump over -the barricade and they are as well there as on the other side. But -the soldiers are in a critical condition fighting barricaders, -because they have their friends on the top of the houses and in each -story, throwing down all manner of heavy things, such as pots, -skillets, pans, chairs, beds, plates, dishes, tumblers and bottles on -the heads of the soldiers until they are intimidated enough to stand -from under. I saw one old orator leading the rebels up by the side -of the soldiers and trying to persuade some of them to say they would -not fire on the citizens if they were ordered. The captain of these -troops told him if he did not leave off talking with the soldiers -that he would have him shot. He would not, and was placed back -against the wall and shot through. - -On the 4th, precisely at two o'clock, the firing of muskets and -cannon were heard from all parts of the city of Paris. The cannon -balls ran through whole blocks of buildings, but the destruction was -not, as one might suppose, bustling but made clear, rounded holes of -its own size, and passed on so rapid it left no bustling confusion. -Where it touched, it done its work. When the firing commenced I was -in the crowd on the _Boulevard des Italian_ with the crowd that was -being shot at. Some fell, and I, with hundreds, ran over them. I -fell, and a dozen or so leaped over me. Like a tangled rabbit I rose -and went faster than ever. I ran down the _rue Lafitte_, trying to -get into some of those large palace doorways, but all was firmly -barred. Having run clear past my own house, No. 43, _rue Lafitte_, I -only discovered my mistake by observing a squad of soldiers behind -_l'eglise l'orette_, loading and firing over some dead bodies that -had already fallen beneath their fire. Like a rabbit again, I took -the back track, and my good old porter saw me from the third story, -and descended and opened one foot of his _porte firme_, and said with -a cheek flushed with fear, "_Entree vite_." I was about to kiss the -old man, but he was not inclined to enjoy such a luxury, most -especially as I had failed to take the advice he gave me the morning -before, "_pas allez dans la rue_." - -About an hour after this the streets of Paris were as empty as a ball -room after the festal scene. It is a wonderful sight to see the -streets of Paris void of its moving mass of humanity. Like the -streets of Pompeii, it reminds one of the victory of destruction. -Paris looked as if it was mourning for those thousands that were -fleetly moving on to eternity. Next day hundreds of ladies and -gentlemen who were innocently killed, lay under a shed in Paris, to -be recognized by their friends, and buried. You could not get close -to them, not closer than ten feet, and then look along through the -glass that kept you and the scent in your own places. There lay some -of the gayest of Paris, with their fine kids on as they had fallen; -their watches and diamonds denoted their bearing, while their -countenances said in their expression, "in the midst of life we are -in death." - -There can be no mistake but that these were people that were trying -to get out of danger, but were overtaken ere they reached the barrier -of safety. - -The poor horses in the streets of Paris looked round on the crowded -and thronged streets with considerable amazement at man's -convulsions. People, horses, birds, shops, and even the weather -resembled the picture of discontent. The graceful hanging trees of -the Champs Elysees, and Tuilleries, are disturbed by the bayonet, as -the soldiers stand under them, for a sort of shield from the -drizzling weather, while they keep the populace back from the -National Assembly. The night after this awful contention of the -people against the army, was as still and lonesome a one as ever the -gay spirit of France was awed with. This night was as interesting to -Frenchmen, as the 20th of January, 1793, the night before the -execution of Louis the sixteenth, and which history describes thus: -"Paris was, by the direction of the government, illuminated on the -night of the 20th, and no person was permitted to go at large in the -streets. Strong bodies of armed troops patroled in every district of -that immense metropolis, the sounds of carriages ceased, the streets -appeared deserted, except by the patrols, and the whole city was -buried in an awful silence. About two o'clock on the morning of the -fatal 21st, voices were heard, throughout the gloom, of lamentation -and distress, but whence they came, or what they were, no one has -ever discovered. On Monday morning, as the clock struck 8, he was -summoned to his fate. He was conducted to a coach belonging to the -Mayor of Paris, in which were two soldiers of the _gendarmerie_; the -most profound silence prevailed while the carriage advanced slowly to -the scaffold; Louis mounted the platform with a firm step and -unaltered countenance, and was preparing to address them, when the -ruffian _Sauterre_, who commanded the guard, cried out, no speeches, -no speeches, and suddenly the drums beat and the trumpets sounded. -The unfortunate monarch, then, with apparent serenity, placed his -head upon the block, the axe fell, and in an instant he ceased to -live in this world. So perished Louis the XVI, a prince whose heart -nature had formed of the best materials, and who, from the first -accession to power, appeared to make his first object, his peoples' -happiness. He was an excellent husband and a good father." - -Though the laws on both occasions were executed with great faith and -promptness, they were by no means pacific to the nation. There is -still too much royal blood in France to allow the seed of -republicanism to prosper spontaneously heedless of their interests. -Though they readily admit that Louis the fifteenth was a better -sultan than a king of France, and that Louis Phillippe dissipated the -throne by being an illegitimate heir, still they cannot look upon -that as sufficient reason to rid them of their vested ancestral -rights. - -The French are full of that ambition that came from Orleans in female -attire, to give back to royalty some hope of yet governing a -versatile people. But if Louis Napoleon, the President of France, -wants to rise higher, he must consult the legitimists of France, or -he will never find bone and sinew for his cruel _coup de etat_. - - - - -THE SECRETS OF A PARIS LIFE, AND WHO KNOWS THEM. - - -Reader, can a man dream with his eyes open? or can a man see with -them shut? Before you say no, bear in mind that man is the shadow of -his maker; and life, a dream. As to the latter part of the query, the -answer may be emphatically no! Then let me dream of what I saw. - -One night my faculties fell asleep upon all the world's eider down, -but these things, my faculties, could not sleep on, I saw myself -going along by the quietest looking, but gayest palace of every day -resort of noblemen and monied men, that decorates the Boulevard. It -is not the magic No. from the corner of the _Rue la Fitte_. On the -first floor is all the pleasure a monied man could momentarily crave; -but the second floor looked gayer, and the third gayer still. I could -see ladies and gentlemen coming in groups of two, four, and six, -every quarter of a minute. - -It was six o'clock, as near as I can recollect the dream. They -commenced sitting down at different tables, while some were hanging -up hats, and others looking around as if they were hunting something -like what other people had; some of the tables were larger than -others; according to their number was the measure thereof. The -gentlemen looked as dignified as giraffes, whilst the ladies looked -the picture of birds of Paradise more especially where fine feathers -contributed. Some were placing their chairs in as agreeable a -position as their inward idea could allow them to do with propriety. -Towards the end of this Palace, in the direction of the Boulevards, -now sprang up a volley of small, or not very loud, musket-like -reports, but as nobody was afraid, no harm could be done. Then I -could see the waiters pouring into some glasses like Dutch churns, -upside down, some hot, smoking stuff that boiled over; it was so hot, -that a man might well fear for the ladies mouths being burnt when -they took hold of it as if they did not see it, but merely wished to -comply with the desire of their beaux. I expected every moment to -hear them scream, but they were not afraid of it. The waiters were -running to and fro with bottles of all colors. Here one turned up -some smaller glasses and poured in something like blood. If it was -blood it was pure as Abel's sacrifice; I never before saw redder from -veins. The next occupation of the waiter, was bringing different -kinds of soups. I looked on the _carte_ and saw a dozen different -kinds; some I never read of before. I looked out of the window on the -_Rue la Fitte_, and saw as many as twenty carriages standing before -one another, and from them descending ladies and gentlemen in pairs, -running up stairs with perfect gusto. - -It is six o'clock as I have said, and I will leave those scenes and -tell what more I dreamt, but will return again. I thought I pushed my -way through crowds of people, and moved along the Boulevards about -four squares, until I came to an extraordinary fine and fashionable -street called Vivienne, and I followed it about two squares until my -attention was attracted by an immense stone building, taking up one -whole square. It looked like the temples I had read of, and I asked a -man what it meant, who said it is a place where all the rich people -go every day at 1 o'clock to make money, and some loose; they call it -"Bourse." He assured me that its financiering had made "countless -thousands mourn." I next walked into a Caffee filled with ladies and -gentlemen and found a seat. A few minutes afterwards a ballet girl -entered and seated herself for _la creme_. I then called for some -cream and we eat on the same side of the same table. I asked her if -it was good? she said she liked it, and asked me if mine was the -same. As the color was different I could not say, without tasting -hers, and we put our glasses together and satisfied ourselves on the -difference, after which we took a _vere du vin_ at the expense of one -of us. - -It is now 11 o'clock, and I said I would return to the "Maison -Doree." Having reached this all-hour sought place, I saw the very -same people I saw seat themselves at 6 o'clock. They were somewhat -changed in color; they all looked rosier and better enabled to take -hold of anything they had to do. The gentlemen looked more sociable, -and the ladies--I won't say more bold, but less timid. When a -gentleman had anything to communicate, he was not obliged to exert -himself in reaching, because the ladies would meet him half way. -Everything was so harmonious that one could not go through the -laborious task of telling his wish, without assistance from his -hearer. Every few minutes something like a rallying remnant of a weak -soldier's gun would go off, and the glasses would smoke as though -each one was a volcano. Every minute or two a couple would rise, and -before the gentleman could give his arm the lady would reach for it. -Even their tempers seemed to fit, as the ocean does the earth, all -around and through. Whilst I was thus dreaming, the pillow became -insufferable, and I must say it awoke me. I thought I looked out of -the window on the moving surface of the Seine. The moon was shining -down on its ripples with a most admirable light of solemn grandeur. -Stillness reigned such as I had never seen in Paris, and all the time -I stood gazing upon that famous stream, not once did that queer dream -enter my mind. I jumped into bed and soon fell asleep, and soon got -into the old habit, so I dreamt. How particular a man ought to be, -when about to do anything for the first time, for, let it be good or -bad, the mind will be tempered with the same sterile or fertile -nature, as that of the preceding act. I thought I was again at the -agreeable Maison Doree, and I looked upon the walled clock, and the -hour hand stood at 2. The hall below stairs was as empty as the -marble hall, where the true lover dreamed he dwelt among vassals and -serfs. But I also dreamed, _which pleased me most_, that I saw very -many beautiful women walking up and down the sidewalk with an -apparent air of hunting for something; not that they had lost -anything they ever possessed, but something to be found. I thought -one came up to me with her dress fully two feet shorter in front than -behind, I mean to say it looked so from what I could see, and said to -me "_quelle heure it el?_" I told her 2 o'clock; she then looked -puzzled, as if she was sure I did not know what she meant by speaking -to me at that late hour. Then she started one way and turned and went -the other. As she passed me she gave her dress a jerk in front that -raised it so high that I almost saw the whole of a pair of the -whitest stockings I had seen since I left the Dutch, who don't wear -stockings at all. My curiosity was that of children on a Christmas -morning, and I started after her in the same earnestness to see if -there was anything good inside the stockings. I found that the -supposed stocking, like Santa Claus, was all imagination. Thus ends -the dream with open eyes. - -Said the fast Countess of Blessington, "Oh commend me to the comforts -of a French bed; its soft and even mattress, its light curtains, and -genial _couvre pied_ of eider down; commend me, also, to a French -_cuisine_, with its soup _sans_ pepper, its cutlet _a la minute_, and -its _poulet au jus_, its _cafe a la creme_, and its desserts. But -defend me from its slamming of French doors, and the shaking of -French windows, &c." I like not the noise like the one in Paris; it -is an amalgamated one, such as never was heard in another city on -earth. The noise of Paris is a variegated one, like humming of bees, -or a serpent's hiss when they cannot be seen. Sometimes its cabs -alone, at another carts filled with groups of theatre actors, from -the _Opera Comique_, _Theatre Francois_, _Ambique_, _Grand Opera_, -_or Hippodrome_. Or if it is early in the morning, it is sure to be -some gay crowds returning from some wild and exciting amusement, such -as only French can enjoy without remorse. When you hear a noise in -Paris, you can no more tell its cause, than you can tell the -composition of a fricassee. It may be a good rabbit, or a better cat, -the skin of the former lying on the table to prove its identity. When -you see woodcocks in the window of a second rate _restaurateur_, you -must not be sure that the cook is putting his herbs among the joints -of the woodcock you have ordered, instead of a diseased owl that was -caught in the barn, for French cooks are not to be scared by an owl. -The more he can dress a rat like a squirrel, the greater his -celebrity as an epicure of the most refined taste. If you go to -market in Paris, you will see under a butcher's stall, whole herds of -rabbits, for rabbits are domestic animals in France. This butcher -lives at the upper end of the market, and has nothing to do with -_Mons. Ledeau_, who lives at the other end, and who sells little cats -under the disguise of amusing _les enfants de Paris_. But _Mons. -Feteau_, the restaurateur, knows both, and takes particular care to -invite _Mons. Ledeau chez Lui_ to take dinner with him, when they -have a good deal of unknown talk. After this interview, the trade in -rabbits gets dull, and the vender wonders who can sell them on more -advantageous terms than he can. He looks all around the market, and -finds that his price is the usual price. It never enters his head -that cats are substituted for rabbits. - -Now reader, don't accuse me of trying to become conspicuous by -asserting more than others, for you know nothing about it, and I do. -I have seen a landlord stand behind a post in his own restaurant, -watching some of his patrons trying to cut what he called _poulet_ -(chicken), but no mortal man could tell what it was but a French -_cuisineur_. I have dined at the _Maison Doree_, _Trois Freres_, -_Cafe Anglaise_, and _Vachettes_, and then gradually down to the -lowest grade, the socialists, and I ought to know something about it. - -Oh, how delightful it is to walk on the Champ Elysee and take a seat -among the French girls, _au fait_, and order your _caffee au lait_. -Then take from your pocket a _sou_, sit cross legged and toss it up -and down, and turn it over and, look at it, and while waiting for the -light guitar, to fend off those nimble fingers, that are taking from -it its sweetest notes, you can think what an immense deal of pleasure -you are getting for the mere anticipation of a _sou_. Then look -around, not slyly, but boldly, and you see some unassuming French -_demoiselle_ gazing upon you with such riveted force of interest, -that the lashes of her eye moveth not. After this you walk into some -_valentino cassino, or jardin_, and you will see some 80 or 100 modes -of cupids and Psyches, keeping time to a Parisian band, and there -will appear to your mind a perfect agreeing correspondence between -the music and the figures that dance around it. Never will you see -the right foot of one couple up while the left foot of another is -down, such perfection of dancing is to be found in all classes in -Paris. - -Very candid, frank and free is a Frenchman. If one admires a lady, -she knows it almost before an opportunity presents itself. If he is -encouraging a useless desire, he always manages it before it can do a -serious injury. Little trouble dwells within the mind of a Frenchman; -he makes much of to-day, to-morrow's trouble must dawn or die with -itself. He finds more pleasure in going to the opera, with his five -francs, than he does by sitting in the house, waiting for the morrow -that never comes, or if it does come, bringing with it a greater -anxiety and love for another morrow. - -There is an amusement in Paris, which language is inadequate to -express the vulgarity of. It is called the "_industrious fleas_." The -name does not indicate the performance. It changes its location every -night in fear of the police. Its supporters are merely curious young -men, who wish to see as strange a sight as the mind of woman can -picture. Their performance commences with a dozen beautiful women -habited like Eve before she devised the fig leaf covering. They first -appear in the form of a wreath, with each one's head between -another's legs; the rest must be imagined. _Au revoir._ - - - - -ROME AND ST. PETER'S CHURCH. - - -By the gate on the southern side, on the 28th of March, 1852, I -entered the "Holy City," just as day was turning to night. I moved -slowly along by the venerable walls of the great St. Peter's church, -in a shackling old _viturino_. A celebrated writer says it is built -on the site of the palace of Julius Cęsar. He also says the extent of -ground covered by the ruined and inhabited parts of Rome amounts to -four and twenty miles. You there find eighty halls of the eighty -eminent kings; from king Tarquin, to king Pepin, the father of -Charlemagne, who first conquered Spain, and wrested it from the -Mahomedans. In the outskirts of Rome, he said, there is the palace of -Titus, who was rejected by the 300 senators, in consequence of having -wasted three years in the conquest of Jerusalem, which, according to -their will, he ought to have accomplished in two years. There is -likewise the hall of Vespasian, a very large and strong building, -also the hall of king Galba, containing 360 windows, the -circumference of this palace is nearly three miles, and on this very -three miles of earth, a battle was fought in times of yore, and more -than one hundred thousand fell, whose bones are hung up there even to -the present day. Now Rome is the leader of all Christendom, and St. -Peters' yearly carnivals are the glory of Rome, instead of the -gladiatorial festivals in the Colisseum. Some writers assert that it -is only the forum upon the site of the palace of the Cęsars. Cooper -says in his excursions in Italy, that the first palace of Nero must -have occupied the whole of the Palatine hill, with perhaps the -exception of a temple or two. The ground round the Colisseum, and all -the land as far as the Esquiline, and even to the verge of the -Quirinal, a distance exceeding a mile; this was occupying, moreover, -the heart of the town, although a portion of the space was occupied -by gardens, and other embellishments. When this building was burned, -he returned to the Palatine, repaired the residence of Augustus, and -rebuilt his residence with so much magnificence, that the new palace -was called the "golden house;" this building also extended to the -Esquiline, though it was never finished. Vespasian and Titus, more -moderate than the descendants of the Cęsars, demolished all the new -parts of the palace, and caused the Colisseum and the baths that bear -the name of the latter, to be constructed on the spot; the emperors -were all elected, and they found it necessary to consult the public -taste and good. Thus we find the remains of two of the largest -structures of the world, now standing within the ground once occupied -by the palace of the Cęsars, on which they appear as little more than -points. From this time, the emperors confined themselves to the -palatine, the glory of which gradually departed. It is said that the -palace, as it was subsequently reduced, remained standing in a great -measure, as recently as the 8th century, and that it was even -inhabited in the 7th, so says Cooper. - -Having been anxious to see the Pope of Rome, Pius IX, I was a -frequent visitor of the Carnival, and at last got a good look at the -great man. He was seated on a divan, which rested on the shoulders of -twelve cardinals, or senators of Rome; he was crowned with a -gorgeously jewelled crown, as the eye of man need wish to gaze on. -Ten thousand people were in the church at the time, and they would -carry the Pope from one aisle to another. The people all would fall -on their knees, and the great man would bless them in the name of -God, and the organ would peal its bassy notes of Te Deum, from east -to west, and north to south, whilst the alarum from the belfry jarred -my heart strings. - -Rome, said a great traveler, is well known; authors of veracity -assure us that for seven hundred years, she was mistress of the -world, but although their writings should not affirm this, would -there not be sufficient evidence in all the grand edifices now -existing, in those columns of marble, those statues. Add to the -quantity of relics that are there, so many things that our Lord has -touched with his own fleshy fingers, such numbers of holy bodies of -Apostles, Martyrs, Confessors, and Virgins; in short, so many -churches, where the Holy Pontiffs, have granted full Indulgences for -sin. - -This writer that spoke of these true merits of the city of Rome, was -among these great and magnificient ruins of Rome, in the 14th -century. His name was Bertrand de la Bracquiere, a Lord of Vieux -Chateau, counseller and first Esquire carver, to Phillip, Duke of -Burgundy, living at that age in Ghent. - -One day when it was very warm, I went down to the Tiber to waste a -little time reflectively, where the golden candlestick that was -brought from Jerusalem fell off the bridge and never was afterwards -found. Whilst I laid there on its banks, listening to its most -inaudible murmur a Jew came and stretched himself close to my feet. I -asked him if he recollected who it was that Plutarch says was -condemned to the hideous punishment of being nailed up in a barrel -with serpents and thrown in the Tiber to float on to the sea? He had -never heard of such a thing. I then asked him if he was aware that -the golden candlestick out of the temple of Solomon lay at the bottom -of that muddy stream? he said yes, and added that the Pope had been -offered millions of piastres by the Jews to let them turn the current -of the Tiber twenty miles above Rome, that they might recover all the -lost and hidden treasure of nearly three thousand years' standing, -but the Pope had refused because he was too superstitious to allow -the Tiber's current to be changed. - -My attention was just at this time drawn to a large old building that -had the bearing of royalty deeply marked on its furrowed decay. I -asked its use, and was informed that it was a maccaroni manufactory. -I drew nigh, and stood, in company with dozens of girls, looking -through its decayed apertures. I saw hundreds of men walking about in -a perfect state of nudity, and also as many more moving round at -quicker step. I would discover every few moments a couple of these -that seemed to be mantled with small reeds of a bending nature, step -on a platform and commence turning round, like crazy men imitating -the spinning of a top, but I could discover nothing of their -intention until they walked off the platform, when I could plainly -see that they had divested themselves of something I knew not what. - -The way they make maccaroni in Rome, is thus: when it is hot or warm, -the men stand by the aperture that squeezes it into a reed-like -shape, and wind it round their bodies until they are totally covered -or mantled, and then they walk in great haste in a circle until it is -nearly cool, after which they walk on the aforesaid platform and -unwind themselves from its cooling grasp, and there it stays until it -becomes totally dry, after which they box it for export. That which -is made for home consumption is not made on so extensive a scale, and -different ideas of neatness is needed lest it affect the home -consumption. - -Three days it took me to pass through the "Vatican." It is the great -gallery of fine arts, and the Pope lives in one part of this Palace. -The Carnival being over, I took one day to go to Tivoli to see an old -temple and olive orchard and the vast ruins of the emperor Adrian's -brick palace, after which I returned to Rome, and bought some mosaiac -work in breast pin jewelry, hired a viturino and four, went to St. -Peters and took a last farewell glance at St. Peter, who stands in -his statue dignity over an altar with his keys of Heaven, and left -Rome in its decay of tyrannical monuments for Naples, its bay and -Vesuvius. - - - - -NAPLES AND ITS CRAFT. - - -After twenty days sight-seeing in Rome, observe me seated in the -front of a viturino on my way to Naples. E. G. Squires, the author of -a book of discoveries, is seated in one of the back seats. He is a -little man full of humor, and a man to judge him by his looks and -manners would have a hard task to steer from error. He is well versed -in Roman lore. We were now an hour and half out from Rome, and he -said "look there ahead, those old walls we are going under is the -walls of old Rome, and that high archway, with those splendid pillars -of carved stone, is the gate leading into Rome via the Appian road -from Naples." We passed through these walls and Rome was forgotten, -in the matters of interest to which he directed our attention. As we -came up to the pretty little ruined city Albano, he said, "there, -gentlemen, is the tomb of Pompey the Great." It was a tall monumental -tomb of white marble, but fallen on all sides by the wreck of the -weather. We entered Albano and dined, and paid a visit to the Veil of -Diana, whose temple was here at Albano. This city occupies the site -of the palace of Pompey the Great and Domitian. The Veil of Diana is -a lake of a few hundred yards round, and hemmed in on all sides by -cliffs of fertility. Two days and a half brought me to the back part -of the city of Naples. In coming to Naples by this route you are some -hours going down hill, but as the lombard poplar trees are so -numerous, it is impossible to get a look at Naples; occasionally I -could hear the roar of Vesuvius and the hum of business, coming by -the force of the breeze from the bay on the other side. All at once I -came out on an open descending slope, but, a quarter of a mile ahead, -the lombardy poplars intercepted our view, still over their tops, off -to the left of Naples, I could see Vesuvius like a sleeping giant -with his flag of wrath ascending on high. The flag of smoke was as -still as a standing cloud, and it stood like God on the earth, but -spreading above in the Heavens. - -Napoli is the city's name, and its meaning is New City, and we call -it Naples. - -I don't think that one contented man can be found in the whole city -of Naples, with its 450,000 souls. Every time this growling, burning -mountain roars it jars the whole city; organ grinders give themselves -as little trouble about Vesuvius as any other class, and the streets -are full of them. They stand all day playing away in the streets as -if they had no where to run to, whilst all house tenants, citizens, -king and priests, run in the streets for fear Vesuvius will spit fire -and brimstone on them, for she has once or twice proved that she, -like God, had no respect of persons. Naples is at least five miles -off, but they looked to me as if they were only a quarter of a mile -apart. It is believed by philosophical men that Vesuvius has burnt -out her bowels for miles under the shallow bay, and also under -Naples. - -I went to Pompeii and Herculanium, two great cities that Vesuvius, in -her tipsy spree, belched all over, destroying population, temples, -theatres, and gladiatorial arenas. Expeditions from different parts -of the world were here, excavating crowns of diamonds; and hundreds -of thousands of scuddies worth of the rarest jemmed jewelry has been -found, even upon the parched bones of notorious victims to this -hideous spree. - -Naples was founded one thousand and three hundred years before the -Christian era, and still escapes this awful calamity. Generation -after generation has lived and died in this fear, and still Naples is -yet the most wicked city on the face of the globe. It shows that -hell-fire preaching will never advance man in this world, or better -prepare him for another. Nothing but an educated mind can ever -understand the mission of christianity. If tyranny can ever do -anything with the mind of man, it had full scope here. The -Neapolitans, reared under such fearful influences of wrath, must -naturally be tempered with surrounding influences. To see a club -slain man in Naples is no object of pity; their mind is forever -placed on wholesale calamities, and nothing short of that can excite -sympathy in such a people. They can fight well because they are -always well prepared to fight, or be annihilated. When the great -Carthagenian, who was so victorious over the Romans, at the well -known battle of Thrasimene, came here to take Naples, he was so much -frightened at the walls, that he would not undertake to besiege the -city. Cumae was the first name of this city, but its inhabitants -being a very jealous people, fell out, and destroyed it; but it was -soon rebuilt, and then it was renamed New City, Napoli, when its -walls obtained the strength that scared the son of Hamilcar, who had -come away from Carthage, leaving behind him a people who could never -believe that the Italians could be whipped, not even by Hannibal, -until he sent three bushels of gold rings back, that was taken from -the fingers of conquered Italians, to prove it. - -There is three hundred churches in Naples, but the vestry of -priesthood is no sign of the true temple of wisdom. The lower classes -are craft ridden from the faggest end of an intelligent class, to the -uttermost peak of sublime ignorance. The moral authority has great -power over those who profess to be the followers of the Church; even -the king himself, is afraid of the priest. In illustration of this I -must relate an anecdote on the present king of Naples, whose title -is better known as the king of the two Sicilies. A good, and honest -intentioned priest one day called on the king to obtain a certain -small sum of money from his honor, as a starting point of collection -to build a church at a certain place. The king, who loves money much, -refused to start the ball rolling by contributing the first -subscription. The good father, somewhat astonished, stood sometime, -thinking over the chances of getting anything after the king's -refusal, put his hand under his ground colored gown to lay hold of -his handkerchief to wipe his nose and eyes of their weeping. The king -took fright, and ran to the bell and rang furiously, the guard came -running in and arrested the priest, but to their great pleasure they -discovered that the king was frightened at the priest's motion for -his handkerchief, instead of a stilleto. The people got wind of it, -and laughed at the scary old king so that he dare not go out. - -This old ugly king has been trying to make some improvements in the -way of morality. He has appropriated a small portion of the city to -the safe keeping of lewd women. It is about three squares of this -city being walled in, and all women found and proven in adultery are -to be condemned to the inside of these walls until the city -authorities become satisfied that they are sufficiently punished. -Police are stationed at the gate and no one but spectators are -allowed to go in and out, except an old woman who acts as their -steward. All foreigners are allowed to go in once, but I don't -suppose foreigners ever wished to go in more than once. When I was -in, the Lazaroni asked me if I would allow him to spend a quarter of -my bag of change to see the women perform. I, not knowing what he -meant, said "Yes." He gave a 25c. piece to one woman, and there was a -hundred in that group, and said something in Italian, when, as many -as wished to claim stock in the 25 cents commenced showing their -nakedness, to the horror of man's sensual curiosity. I saw fifty -women show what I had never legally seen before. I must end this -chapter and commence another of more superstition, of St. Janarius -and his Blood. - - - - -ST. JANARIUS AND HIS BLOOD. - - -In the centre of Naples, on a very high hill, is a splendid old -castle or fort. Myself and two American ladies winded round its base -upwards, till we reached its gates. Our guide beat there some time -before its old lord would hear; we handed him our permit from below -to enter, and he said "walk in," in the French tongue. These two -American ladies and their father seemed to make quite an agreeable -impression on the commander of the castle or fort. He invited us into -his parlor where he asked us many disguised questions, such as; "how -do you like Naples?" "when are you going to leave and what directions -will you take from here?" was some of his questions. Having "pumped" -us as dry as he could, he called a guard and put us under escort to -see the wonders of this old tyrant mound. Cannons were pointed from -the loopholes of this fort to all parts of the city. The people are -afraid to rebel against the laws of Ferdinand II, because orders from -the palace to this castle can come under ground. The king has a -private path miles under ground to get to this castle when besieged -in his palace. It is said that this fort can destroy the city in a -few hours; can batter it all down and set it on fire with its shells, -and burn it up, and as the property belongs to the citizens they keep -quiet. The old man now invited us back to his saloon and asked us our -opinions of this, his castle; of course it was all we anticipated and -more too. Whilst he was delighted with the ladies' answers to his -questions, I walked out in the court, and the lazaroni or guide -called my attention to the open register, where all visitors' names -are recorded, and glanced at the following record of that morning: -"_Mons. Millenberger et deau dame; Compte Fello de Amerique et une -jeune homme._" This was indeed laughable, but to make it more absurd, -my old guide informed me that he was aware of our nobility some days -ago. I inquired of him how it was possible for him to find out such a -mystery. He smiled very knowingly and assured me that he was -possessed of peculiar tact for finding out such things. Then in his -confirmation of his skill in fathoming this hidden secret, he told me -of a Mr. Rice, a powerful lord of South Carolina, who would be an -heir to an immense estate if he lived long enough, and of his noble -bearing, and how Mr. R. tried to conceal it from him, but it couldn't -be done, and which Mr. Rice had to acknowledge. Then he went on to -show me why Americans ought not to try and conceal such things as -they eventually lost the best accomodation the hotels could afford, -by not letting it be known who it was wanted them. He also suggested -that American noblemen ought to wear some peculiar mark or sign that -they may be distinguished from those of an inferior dignity. I for -once felt like driving the good-natured old fool away, but as he was -so bigoted with his own errors I told him that all noblemen of -American peculiarities did have signs about them unmistakeable. Here -his curiosity rose to such a pitch he asked me to make it known to -him so that he might hereafter know how to treat such worth. I told -him that if ever he came across an American of Arkansas or Texas, to -get behind him when seated and look over his left shoulder, in his -bosom, and he will most likely see something like an elephant's tusk, -but it was nothing more nor less than what was called a toothpick, -and when he saw that, it would be to his advantage to be mighty -polite. The old man believes now he has the insignia of an American -prince, and intends treating him with due respect to his high -position. - -From this Fort I took a ride to Baie, and after two hours' ride I -reached it. Two thousand years ago it was a great city where Cęsar -and Cicero dwelt a great part of their time. The site of their -palaces are yet discernable. The hot baths out of the earth are here -yet, and I took one. No doubt but they are heated, running under the -bay from Vesuvius on the other side. A few hundred yards out in the -bay is the smallest island I ever saw to have a town of thousands of -souls on it. It is about a mile in circumference. The town takes up -almost all of the island of Procida. The inhabitants are nearly all -Greek descendants, and are celebrated for keeping up the Greek -fashions. The old guide insisted on us going into the heart of -Procida, where he would show us the curious costumes. Having waited -in an old dirty room some time for the scene, a rough working girl -came into the room and stood some time. The old man asked me how I -liked it? but I couldn't see anything different from other women -about the town. He told her to turn around, when he called my -attention to some plaiting around the waist of the woman's dress. She -now whispered something to our guide, which, when translated, meant -that she had her soap to make, and would like to discontinue the -performance as the show was out. He said we must give her a couple of -pauls for her trouble of dressing and undressing. This old man kept -us laughing all the way back to Naples. When leaving Baie, passing -some old magnificent ruins, he said, "Gentlemen, that is the ruins of -the palace of Lucullus, the greatest eater that ever was in Italy." -Then he commenced relating Plutarch's history of Lucullus' style of -living. He told us of the single dish that was expensive to the tune -of 1,200 francs. Here the old man licked out his tongue, in token of -his approbation of its being good. This old man has a country seat -and town residence. He showed us, on our way out, his country seat; -it consists of an old brick building, that in times of yore must have -been used by somebody, who had a house, as a stable, and being an -enterprising man, his mouth watered for it as a filthy retreat from -Naples, when he can get no labor, such as he is now occupied with. We -give him about forty cents a day, and he finds himself. - -In Napoli is a church of fearful renown. It is built upon the site of -the temple of Apollo; it was commenced by Charles the first, and -finished by Charles the second, in the twelfth century. It is built -of stone, and pillars of stone, from all parts of Africa, brought -here in conquest. In it is buried the aforesaid Charles. This is the -church of St. Janarius; a large statue of St. Janarius is represented -seated, and always ready to bless the people. In a small tabernacle, -with silver doors, is preserved the head and two vials of the Saint's -blood, said to have been collected by a Neapolitan lady during his -martyrdom. This blood becomes miraculously liquid, whenever it is -placed before the head of St. Janarius. The ceremony of this miracle -is repeated three times a year, that is, during eight days in the -month of May, eight days during the month of September, and on the -day of protection, on the 16th of December. This miracle is to the -Neapolitans a constant object of devotion and astonishment, of which -no one that has not been present, can form a just idea. When the -liquifaction of the blood takes place immediately, the joy of the -people knows no bounds; but if the operation of the miracle is -retarded one moment, the cries and groaning of the people rend the -air; for at Naples the procrastination of this miracle is considered -the prestage of some great misfortune; the grief, particularly of -the women, is so great, that the blood never fails to become liquid, -and resume its consistency, on each of the eight days; so that every -one may see and kiss the blood of St. Janarius, in as liquid a state -as when it first issued from his veins. The city of Naples has been -in danger of being destroyed by the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius, by -earthquakes, and other calamities, such as war, pestilence, &c., &c., -but it has always been delivered by the blood of this mighty Saint. A -lady writer says: "At one time the blood was rather slow about doing -its duty, when their hypocritical priest says to the people, that the -blood would never liquidate so long as they allowed the French to -keep possession of the town. As soon as the French general heard -this, he sent notice to the people that if the priest did not make -the blood liquidate in ten minutes, off went his head. There was -great lamentation for the priest, and the whole city was sympathizing -with him, as his time was short; but at the expiration of nine -minutes and three quarters the blood liquidated." - - - - -CONSTANTINOPLE. - - -On the second day of May I glided out on the beautiful bay of Naples, -and steered towards the east, where the wise men lived, and the light -rose up. The first piece of terra firma next discovered was Etna, in -Sicily. Sicily, before the crusade of king Siguard, was governed by -Dukes and Earls. Mussinna is the only town of any particular note, on -this fertile island. Mt. Etna, while at Musina, hides half of the -firmament from your view, but when seen at eventide from the deck of -a receding vessel, it seems to have sunk in a mole hole. It takes two -days carriage ride around its base, to reach its top. Six days out -from Naples brought our good vessel to Syria, a city in Greece, with -14,000 inhabitants. It is a charming sight to look at from your -vessel, on account of its resemblance to _wall hung pigeon houses_. -From the sea, you look at a mountain, with hundreds of systematical -white spots clinging to its sides, and which proves to be Syria. - -The ship stopped here a day, and all the passengers, and the rest of -mankind, went ashore. The men were quite handsome for such a rough -country; four or five young men and myself, were determined to see -some of the Syrian ladies, if possible. On we went to the top of the -city, through very narrow streets, and few ran over fifty yards -without ending, and taking some unknown direction. After great -exertion we reached the highest house, but, like Moses from his -Pisgah, we saw the land but not its fruits. We were still inclined to -prosecute our search, until our minds came to some definite -conclusion. An exclamation of joy burst forth from one of our -company, indicating success. We all moved closer to our guide, who, -most wonderful to behold, had discovered the figure of a woman with -her back towards us. We passed respectfully by her, trying to conceal -our emotion of success. The first that passed her, quickly turned -round as if he would speak to our companions, just as you have seen a -young lady walk a little ahead of her companion, to have an excuse to -look back at some young gent who seemed to have admired her when -passing, and lo! this woman's face was bound in the fashion of death, -her motion was as still as the grave, and well it might be, as it was -nothing but a marble figure of some Grecian maid, long dead. We had -one good laugh to reward the artist of so exquisite a piece of his -skill. The young men went skipping down the hill towards our vessel. -I, taking more interest in this monumental piece of affection, did -not discover that my friends were gone until I found myself a "last -Mohican." I started to descend the theatrical looking town, by -winding in and out of small passage ways, until I found myself up an -alley with no outlet, and when I turned to go out, the gate was fast -and barred. A gate running in another direction was opened, and, old -as a man could well be, was an old priest, seated on a stone -beckoning to me to come in. I did not seem to comprehend, but he was -determined I should, and came out with an extraordinary long string -of beads nearly counted. He spoke several languages, and informed me -that if my business was what all persons' business is that enter that -alley, that he was ready to give me absolution. I informed him in -French that I was there through a mistake; and he then told me that -it was usual in Syria for those wishing immediate absolution, to come -to the priest's residence at all times, when there was no services in -church, and on payment of a small fee, get value received in full. He -was a kind old man. He offered to give me absolution right off, for -any mistake, or bad intention that I allowed to occupy my attention, -whilst in Syria. - -Whilst I was explaining to the priest, I heard a suppressed laugh at -the gate. The priest opened the gate and let me out. My friends were -close by; they had seen me go in the passage way with no outlet and -fastened the gate on me, as they say "to have a lark," but they -little knew that they were then placing me in wisdom's way; I had -learned more with the priest than I could from them all day long. - -Our sail is up, and on ahead of us is Smyrna, the birthplace of -Homer, one of the seven churches of Asia Minor, and it has 150,000 -inhabitants, and it is close to the Isle of Patmos, where St. John -wrote the Revelations and saw four angels standing on the four -quarters of the globe holding up the four winds of Heaven, that they -might not blow upon the sea nor the earth. - -Smyrna has been destroyed ten or twelve times and still has a large -population. Like Syra, Smyrna is on the side of a hill. None of its -ancient buildings remain except a corner wall of an old church that -resounded back the voice of St. John to the minds of his hearers, -when he preached those very Epistles we hear every Sabbath, in all -Christian lands. The streets and bazaars are densely crowded with -business men from all smaller towns for hundreds of miles around, and -the houses, which are only one story, seem to be as densely filled -with pretty women. I see no window of a respectable looking house -without a lady. I cannot describe the ladies dress as I was not -fortunate enough to get inside, and as they are very seldom on the -street. The dresses of the men were of so many styles it would not -pay to describe them, it is enough to say that it consisted of a many -colors as Joseph's coat, of some cotton or silk woof of all -qualities. - -There being no accommodation here for travelers, we did not ask the -captain to lay by all night. Next morning we were sailing through the -rapid Hellespont, at the Dardenelles. About ten o'clock, A. M. we -reached the part of the Hellespont where Lord Byron swam across from -Europe to Asia--from Sestos to Abydos. - - "If in the month of dark December, - Leander, who was nightly wont - (What maid will not the tale remember?) - To cross thy stream, broad Hellespont!" - -Here we stopped some minutes, and two or three yawls came from the -Asia side in quest of something to do. At the hind part of one of -these yawls was a large, fat and shiney black African, doing the lazy -part of the work--steering. His heavy self weighed down the other -end, containing two men and oars. It was a beautiful day and the sun -came down with a quivering heat in the distance, so, as it is said, -that the natives in the interior of Africa cook their meat on sun -heated rocks, he looked as if he was about to broil. He attracted the -attention and caused amusement for the passengers; and some one threw -some orange peelings on his naked rotundity as he was half lying on -his back with no clothes on above his loins. He pretended to take no -notice of it until they came in such regular succession he could not -but show signs of acknowledgement or cowardice. After his patience -gave out, he turned lazily around and looked up, like a duck at -thunder, and shook his head; they followed up this amusement until -he got agoing on the gibberish dialect, and that was more amusement -yet; at last our boat left him, and one of our passengers translated -his resentment. It was merely, "according to his ideas of decorum, he -had not been treated gentlemanly, and that he would remember it if -ever we came to his country, and that he would not consider us worth -taking notice of." - -On the morning of the 11th of May, the captain said to the sailors, -"Bosphorus! down the hatch and bring the mail on deck." I looked -ahead and saw an immense number of steeples, towers and minarets; to -the eye no city on earth need look prettier. It was, indeed, the -fairest sight I ever beheld. I asked an old Turkish tar what it was, -he said, "Stamboul, stamboul." The captain said to the pilot, "right -towards the Harem." Gondoliers from all directions of the "golden -horn" were racing to us; in one of them a couple of officers, in -their gay colors came. All our baggage was gondoliered, and we, all -afloat, approached the Custom House. I slipped a five franc piece, as -I had been told, in an officers hand, to get rid of the trouble of -unlocking trunks, and he went blind, and I passed unmolested with my -contraband, if I had any, into the great Mahommedan city, -Constantinople. - - - - -THE DOGS PROVOKE ME, AND THE WOMEN ARE VEILED. - - -The first visible annoyance in Constantinople is dogs, which Murray's -guide says is nobody's property. In a space of a rod I counted -seventy-four dogs, and not one respectable dog in the seventy-four! -fifteen or twenty of them were marked on different parts of the body -with scalds, some with only one ear, some blind, the streets were -lined with them, lying down, standing up, fighting, breeding, and -making love. The Turks are as particular about getting around and -through them, as a good man would be in a crowd of children; in fact, -I saw a Turk tread upon a child in an effort to pass around dogs. -They take no notice of persons passing to and fro, but if you touch -one, he jumps at you and lays hold. - -During the night we have a long dog-note howl, from dark to daylight, -and there is no way to stop it; they have systematical skirmishes of -parties from different sections. Murray holds that they have -fundamental laws of infringement, and woe be to him that don't -acknowledge their legality. The puppies, as soon as they open their -eyes, he observes, join in the first fight, and off goes his ear, -tail, or leg, and he grows up used to hardships, and the customs and -responsibilities of war; he is also taught the responsibility of -invasion. Before he learns the landmarks, he goes on another's -territory, where he is picked up by some old sentinel and shook a -little, and thrown across the border, where he stands and barks a -little, in defiance of the old dog's pluck and courage to come on -this "spot and do the like. In their hymenial adventures" they -frequently cross the borders, in pursuit of their object of -affection, when there is a free fight, that lasts until some devoted -amour falls a martyr to his sincerity, whilst the object of his -affection escapes, heedless of his fidelity, and his great care for -her and his posterity. - -The virtue of keeping so many dogs in Constantinople, is to cleanse -the streets of offal, that is piled there by the citizens, who are -not blessed with sink holes under the streets, they empty their -swill, bad vegetables, and scraps of all corruption in the middle of -the streets, and the dogs act the buzzard's part, or the cholera -would reign supreme all the year round. When the citizens are fearful -of hydrophobia, the Sultan orders the dogs to be driven in herds to a -lake a few miles from the city, and there to stay during the dog -days; but when they are brought back, the city is generally raging -with what they call in the east, the plague. If the city was blessed -with sink holes, they could then dispense with the nuisance of dogs -in such narrow streets, and the provocation of their efforts of -progeny. They are frequently so close together that a man hardly ever -takes notice of their condition to one another. I, trying to pass -through a group, got entangled between two and fell over them, as it -was impossible to get through, as one tried to go one way, and the -other another; I was so provoked when I got up, I did'nt look back to -see whether it was their legs or tails was tied together; I am sure -it was one or the other, from their magnanimous struggles to take one -another their own way. - -Another source of low spirits to a man from off the waters, is to see -women moving about like spirits or shadows, and cannot be seen. The -promenades in Constantinople are the graveyards or any other sacred -site. The graveyards are like rustic parks with immense numbers of -tombstones denoting the head of the grave, and all are inclined to a -fall. The ladies go there and lean against them and talk with their -maids, and you can hear their sweet laugh, but see no smile. They sit -like a tailor, on the inside of their heels or ankles. You will see -five or six stand talking in their beautiful silk wrappers, and quick -as a fall they will sink down upon those little feet, like a blossom -sinking from its majesty of beauty to its downward decay. They seem -to get closer to the earth than any other people could. One -nymph-like lady was so wiry in her manner of talking to her black -maid, and so full of good humor, that I knew she must have been -pretty. I looked at her one hour, and she at me, through her eyelits. -I would have given five pds to lift her veil; I know she was pretty, -her voice was so fluty, and her hands so delicate, and her feet so -small, and her dress so gauzy; she was like an eel. I do not believe -she had any bones in her. I asked the guide if there was no way in -the world to get acquainted with her, and he said, none under heaven. -The guide and myself moved along to see some others, and something -new presented itself at every step. Vanity is reigning monarch in all -females. I had stopped in another part of the graveyard pleasure -ground, and whilst leaning against a tombstone, this Mohammedan maid -came up and seated herself as near to me as she was before. Her maid -had changed her veil, and was still fixing it on her mistress. This -veil was thin enough to make me believe I could see her figure of -countenance, and I swear she was pretty. The guide said that she was -for sale, I told him to go and buy her for me, and asked him who -owned her, he said, her mother, but I could not buy her because I was -no Mohammedan. I asked him what did he think she was worth, he said, -about a thousand Turkish piastres, a sum of about twenty-five -dollars. I told him if he could buy her for that I would give -twenty-five dollars for himself. This was a powerful engine on his -reflective powers. He said he did not know how it could be done. I -asked him if he thought the girl would admire me; he had no doubt -about that, and added, I need not have any uneasiness about that, as -I could make her love me after she was mine, she was obliged to obey -me according to the Turkish laws, and no man could change the laws -but Abdul Medjid, the Sultan. - - - - -A COLORED MAN FROM TENNESSEE SHAKING HANDS WITH THE SULTAN; AND MEN -PUTTING WOMEN IN THE BATH AND TAKING THEM OUT. - - -Friday is a festive day with the citizens of Stamboul. It is -celebrated by gondolar rides along the canal called "sweet water." -Males and females go up this canal, in all degrees of magnificence, -and it is nothing but the elite of the city. From thirty to forty -thousand assemble by eleven o'clock, the hour for the Sultan and his -seven Sultanas, to arrive. Just about this hour it is very gay. The -gentlemen are in groups of from two to ten, exercising on flageolets, -or wooden or iron musical instruments of some kind. The ladies come -some in Palanquins with strong Turks at each end, and others in a -golden gilt carriage, drawn by either oxen, camels, or men; if oxen, -their horns are decorated with ribbons and flowers, if camels no -decoration of beauty is needed as they are appreciated for their -capability of standing hardships and sufferings; if men, for their -masculine limbs and jocular songs, whilst pulling the beauties to the -festal scene. - -Where I discovered the crowd thickest there I repaired, and the -Mohammedans, were standing around a very large man, from Nashville, -Tennessee, United States of America. His name was Frank Parish. He -had in his hand as large a hickory stick as ever a man carried to be -a stick; he wore Turkish costume from head to foot, and his Tarbouche -was of the best red, and he stood up with a Narghehly in his hand and -mouth, all cap a pie, _ala Turkoise_. Here the people began to give -way for the Sultan and his seven legitimate wives. Frank didn't give -way an inch of territory for the Sultan. Two or three Pachas rode a -head of the Sultan seated on camels in their golden saddles. The -Sultan stopped every fifty yards and listened to the music. When he -stopped close to Frank, he cast his eyes on his great form, and -seemed to be interested; and Frank had brass enough to look at the -Sultan as he did at other people. Frank took his pipe from his mouth -and walked up to the Sultan's carriage and offered his hand which the -Sultan took, to the approbation of all present. The seven Sultanas -were looking at Frank all the time through their eyelits as if they -liked the looks of him. Frank is a man about 45 or 50 years of age, -and looks like a man in every sense of the word. He is not a yellow, -or black man, but what we call ginger-bread color. He had come to -Constantinople, with a Mr. Ewing from Nashville, and was staying at -Constantinople to recover from wounds he had received from Arabs -that shot him through the shoulder with his own gun, whilst standing -over the body of Mr. Ewing, who the Arabs were trying to kill, and -thereby saved the life of Mr. Ewing. He was a free man and owned -property in Nashville. The Sultan could plainly see that his loyal -subjects were but as infants, by the giant-like man that stood over -them. Being surrounded by such dwarf-like men, he showed off to great -advantage. The Sultan is a weak looking man, and has the marks of -fatigue well written on his forehead and limbs; he also looks like a -man surfeiting on the fat of the world. He is a slow walking man, and -seems as if he experienced some weakness coming from a hidden source -which allowed its approach so gradually and agreeable that he is not -conscious of its fatality. He knows nothing of the rest of the world -nor cares for it, but believes that himself and Constantinople are -the wonders and powers of it. - -He is only twenty-two years old, but never once has been out of his -Paradise, Shamboul. According to his opinion, he has no equals, -consequently he has no associates. He is uneducated, because no one -dare to instruct him. Such a man lives a Monarch and will die like a -fool. If the Czar of Russia were to pay him a visit, he might smile -with acknowledgement, but if Queen Victoria's virtuous head would -call, she could not stop in his seraglio as quick as Madame Rachel or -Lolla Montez; and if General Zack Taylor called, his Pacha's would -receive him, and a General Jackson would scare him to death, as he is -the most nervous man on a Throne. - -As he is the descendant of Mahommed, it is admitted here that his -authority to govern the people is received on all emergencies from -God. He is incapable of fearing any nation on the earth, as he thinks -that his is head of all. If some day, the news went to his palace -that the Bosphorus was covered with a fleet, and that one ball had -already struck the dome of the mosque St. Sophia, he would, through -all his resolutions, break his haughty heart, and no doubt tremble -off his divan. They are talking about a war with Russia, and I can -find no man here that thinks Russia can begin to fight them. - -The Sultan's harems are numerous. While the occupants of the large -are removed to two small ones, we have permission to pass through it, -to see its magnificence, by paying the sum of five dollars a piece. -It is a government of itself. It has a large bath room of water, and -one of vapor. The girls are as pure as silvan nymphs, and some have -remained in this harem until they become old, on account of the -Sultan's fancy to certain ones. They are carried to the baths by -black men, called eunuchs. They take their baths in all attitudes of -pleasure, while these eunuchs lean over the large, stationary stone -basins, and gaze at them in their Eve like costumes. But before these -men are placed in this important position of servitude, they are -privately handled to the disadvantage of displaying any -demonstrations of manly pride, towards these vexed reflections that -must naturally spring up in the reflective minds of virgins deprived -of the luxuries of a life, built upon the confines of clandestine -border thoughts of _sexes_. - - - - -GOING TO ATHENS WITH A PRIMA DONNA. - - -Having seen the Sultan's great City, mosques, ambers, sponges, -perfumeries and beads, I am now passing the Custom House, on my way -back to Greece. - -In the front part of this vessel the cabin is all one, and whoever -gets any kind of a berth is lucky, as the passengers are numerous. -The beds or berths are one over the other, like our lake boats' -second class cabin. One berth is a little higher than the other, they -are three stories, and one person has to climb over another to get in -bed, and even then you are too close together. The second class -passengers find their own bedding, and sleep upon deck, and we have -some very rich Greecian families aboard, with their bedding and food, -who sleep on deck. Yesterday we passed by Smyrna, and stopped and -took aboard three beautiful Albanian girls. When you see a pile of -old rubbish lying about on these Dardanelle boats, there is always -some owner lying under it. - -These Albanian girls were dressed very different from the Turkish -girls, and the pretty ones are not veiled. They had on a very pretty -costume, but over it they wore a very large and coarse cloak, -composed of either camel's hair, or wool of some ugly animal. They -have a bonnet attached to it, that they can either throw back, or -wear on their heads, and this cloak drags the ground. On board of our -vessel was two young gentlemen from New York, trying to attract the -attention of these Albanian girls, though they had their beaux with -them. These young gents are very rich, their wholesale oil -establishment, in New York, is said to do a business of millions of -dollars per annum, and their names were Bridgers. They were seen to -follow these beauties wherever they promenaded the deck, still they -received no encouragement. Sometimes these girls would hide -themselves in their winding sheet, and throw the bonnet part over -their heads, and fall down upon the deck as singular and as natural -as an apple from a tree, and then they would appear as a pile of -rubbish of old sacks. At last the gay Messrs. Bridgers lost them, and -they hunted in all directions, but could not find these fairies. They -got tired hunting, and seated themselves to talk on some old piles of -blankets and quilts, but before he got seated. I mean only one, he -was thrown flat on his face by one of these pretty girls. In choosing -a comfortable seat, he picked the covered head of the prettiest girl. -He felt very bad about the mistake he had made, and I felt ashamed -for him, but worst of all, he could make no amends, as she spoke -nothing but Greek. He said "I wish I could apologize," but he -could'nt. She did not seem to like it at all. - -The first night out we had a good deal of contention about berths. We -had more passengers than the law of this company allows; they are not -allowed to take one passenger more than they can accommodate. - -Among the passengers on board was the first dancer of Constantinople. -Those who had spoken for berths went to bed soon for fear disputes -would arise about the right of them. I made sure of mine by sitting -by it and watching it. After all the berthers had taken possession of -their respective places, I discovered many persons taking berths on -the sofas around the cabin; there were some curtains hanging about to -make screens, to dress and undress behind, and the lights always -burned dimly. These sofas were on a level with the lower berths, -consequently, whoever took a sofa berth, was almost sleeping with the -occupant of the lower berth. - -There was some choice about them, inasmuch as some were wider than -others. I could see through my thin curtain that some one had picked -out X 31, my own doorway. I lay like a rock to find out who it was, -until I saw that everybody was in a resting attitude, after which I -quietly drew back my curtain, to see what my neighbor was like. I -knew it was some respectable person from the sweet smell of roses and -other eastern scents which I inhaled. I could dimly see a Madonna -figure of considerable size, and the figure was nearly touching me. -I did not get scared but lay as quiet as possible. I saw plainly that -sleep had sent in a regret for that night, the lamp flickered up and -went down, leaving a dark twilight perceptible around the cabin, and -I put my hand slowly out to see what my neighbor felt like, and I -felt the veritable prima donna of Constantinople, "_qu est ce que -vous voulez_," said she, "_rien_," said I, and shut my eyes and went -to sleep in a hurry, and slept as sound as any man could, by the side -of a live Prima Donna. - - - - -ATHENS, A SEPULCHRE. - - -When Rome had a Cęsar and a Cicero, and a Cassius with a Brutus, -Athens dictated the arts and sciences for her. Though she cannot -claim the originality of them, she can the perfection of beautifying. -The conquest of Alexander the Great, in Egypt, among the Africans, -was considered the greatest triumph of conquest ever made by man, -because it enabled the warlike people of Greece, to adorn their -triumphs with the spoils of the vanquished. Egypt was a higher sphere -of artistical science than any other nation on the earth. This will -naturally convey an idea to the world that the black man was the -first skillful animal on the earth, because Homer describes the -Egyptians as men with wooly hair, thick lips, flat feet, and black, -and we have no better authority than Homer. We know not the exact -epoch of his time, but we know it was before any other authentic -chronicler, save the sacred book of Moses, by the fact that he -voyaged on the Nile before the pyramids were built, which we can -trace three thousand years. - -On the 29th of May, 1852, as the sun was going down the blue arch of -the western sky, I reached the top of Mars Hill, in Athens, and -seated myself in the seat where St. Paul rested from his display of -power over a bigoted people, when he said, "I perceive that in all -things you are too superstitious." - -When St. Paul stood on Mars Hill, Athens was a voluptuous city to -look at. There was the white marble temple of Apollo, Jupiter, -Minerva, Juno and Mars, besides temples to the sun and moon, and one -to the "unknown god," all of which were reared up in the most -conspicuous reigns of those gods over the minds of all the -inhabitants of Athens in a limited degree. As I descended Mars Hill, -I turned to the right and entered the temple of Bacchus, who is -described in the classical dictionary thus: "son of Jupiter and -Semele, and god of wine and drunkards, nourished till a proper time -of birth in his fathers thigh, after the death of his mother, whom -Jupiter, at her request, visited in all his majesty. Semele, who was -a mortal and unable to bear the presence of a god, was consumed to -ashes." An old man was in the temple to keep people from breaking -pieces off from the beautiful temple's treasure, which was the tomb -of Bacchus, with the god carved on the sides, drinking his delight. I -did not know what god's temple this was, and enquired of the old man, -he could not speak any European language, but was quite successful -in conveying the information I wanted; he took an old gourd and -scooped some water up from the bottom of a bucket, and drank it with -great hilarity, at the same time pointing to Bacchus, as if he would -say, "he drank!" I said, "You mean to say this is the temple of -Bacchus, the god of wine and drunkards, do you?" he bowed towards his -toes and then stood erect, and tried to make me understand that the -rest of the tombs there were gods and goddesses, of which Apollo -loved either sexually or valorously. There were no windows to the -temple, the only inlet was the door, but though the door was shut, it -was as light inside as one would wish. The marble was transparent, -and when the sun shone upon its roof or walls, it forced its light -through in a determined way. - -As I left this veritable tomb and sepulchre of the great god of wine -and drunkards, my guide pointed to an aperture from the heart of a -hill, and said, that entrance goes to the cave where Socrates was -poisoned. We then went up the most imposing ruins of Athens, the -Acropolis. The temples there looked down upon the rest of the temples -of Athens, like Jupiter would at the feast of gods, it was higher and -more stupendous than all. There was the seats of solid blocks of -white marble of the twelve judges. They were all in a row, and only -one broke. They were solid blocks with scooping apertures, for a man -to place his rotundity in comfortable quarters. Round about the -ruins were balls and cannon, grape, and several bursted shells, but -one half of this tremendous mass of splendid ruins stood upright, as -when it first took its stand among the wonders of the world, as a -temple of wisdom. This temple makes it impossible for us to pronounce -ourselves the "light of all ages." - -The great god of this temple was the Ammon of the Africans, the Belus -of the Babylonians and the Ossiris of the Egyptians; from him, -mankind receives his blessings, and their blessings of miseries, and -he is looked upon as one acquainted with everything, past, present -and future. Saturn was Jupiter's father, and conspired against his -son and in consequence was banished from his kingdom. Now Jupiter -became ruler of the universe and sole master of the Empire of the -world, and divided with his brothers, reserving for himself the -kingdom of heaven, and giving the Empires of the sea to Neptune, and -that of the infernal regions to Pluto. The sea moved at his wrath, -and hell burned his opposers, and he looked down from heaven at the -commotion of his wrath till the men on earth considered their welfare -only secured by worshipping his smile. Athens and all her -superstition is gone now, and the godly man now laughs at the folly -of the wisdom that all talent of old times craved for. On Mars hill -where St. Paul thundered the decrees of God against gods, though -nothing to designate the spot, there the Christian of to-day would -rather stake his salvation than from the most sacred abode of Jupiter -and Juno. But there is still weak minds in Athens, for as I descend I -see on the side of a hill that celebrated stone where females used to -come from all parts of Italy as well as Greece to slide down on it, -as a true avoidance of barrenness. This stone is as slick as a piece -of soap, so slick a lizzard could not run down it. For nearly three -thousand years two and three thousand women per day have slid down it -in a sitting posture. The guide books call it the "substitute rock -for female barrenness." Many a bruise has this rock given in -receiving its polish. Hundreds of boys and young men are here at -present, sliding down it for fun. - -I see, seated about fifty feet away from it, the Tennessee negro I -described at Constantinople, Frank Parish. A Scotchwoman is seated -beside him, and seems to be proud of him as a beaux. She is a lady's -maid that came here yesterday from the Sublime Porte with her -mistress and Frank. The Scotch lady insisted on Frank taking a slide -with the young men, but for Frank it was no joke, as he was an -extraordinary large man. But Frank, being as full of conspicuousness -as any other man, it only required a little coaxing to get him -started; at last he seated himself for a slide, but he did not much -like to let go lest there would be a crash up. He anchored himself -to the top and hesitated some, paused and looked like a fool. An -Irish servant that was with the same family as the Scotchwoman, -encouraged Frank, by saying, "be a marn," Frank said, "if I am not a -man there is none about here," just to fill up the pause of suspense; -but while Frank was looking and studying, the Irishman loosened his -hands, and he went down like a colossus; seeing that he had broke no -bones, he got up with a smile and felt himself all over to see if he -was safe and sound. The Irishman said, "how did it feel my marn?" -Frank pronounced it the most pleasant sensation he ever experienced. -"Then ye never dreamed that ye were married," said the Irishman. -Frank said he had, but had forgot it. The Scotchwoman wished to know -if that was a pleasant dream; the Irishman said, "it was the most -pleasant dream a marn could have, and the most unpleasant was to find -it a lie." - -Starting from the "female substitute for barrenness," we met a man -with a telescope, and we all wanted to take a fair view of Athens. -The Irishman borrowed it from the man and took the first squint. He -pointed to a fine house towards the Kings palace, and there he looked -alone. When I obtained it I looked there too, and saw a beautiful -Grecian maid combing her long black hair; gazing at her until she -finished, I got a most ungentlemanly view of a lady, from which, in -all due respect to her, I had to refrain, and took another direction -in search of fair views. We went down the hill, and as we moved -along the Grecian ladies' and gentlemen's walks, I, though mixed up -in a crowd of different people, was determined to hear Frank talk to -this Scotchwoman. He was telling her of his business, which was still -going on in Nashville, Tennessee, and of how many improvements he -intended to make in his bath house and barber shop, when he returned, -with things that he had already bought in Paris. She believed it all, -and Frank was in his glory. I noticed their actions particularly, and -was upon the eve of hearing their loveliest words, when she stopped -as if it was a great sacrifice to her to give up his company. They -lingered some time, as they would fain go on, but as she was going to -her mistress' hotel, and Frank to his, they must part. Frank was well -versed for the occasion, in Byron. He took her by the hand and looked -her in the face affectionately, and said with emotion, - - "Maid of Athens, ere we part, - Give, oh give me back my heart." - -As Frank was going to my hotel I thought it well to make his -acquaintance; he said he saw me at Constantinople, but as I was an -American, he did not deem it necessary to make my acquaintance, as I -knew that he was a mere barber from Tennessee. He also told me he had -been married several times, and was now engaged at home. The day -after this, I was outside of Athens at what is called "the amusement -grounds" of Athens, for the people repair there every evening to -hear the national band play. This band comes from Bavaria, where -Greece got her present king. King Otho is the son of the King of -Bavaria. Here the king rides out every evening, and here Frank took -another liberty with royalty. As the King and his wife rode up to the -band, his horses stopped just at Frank's elbow, and Frank walked to -the carriage and offered his red hand to the king, and it was, -through courtesy, accepted. Athens is to-day a small town, and the -King lives here. The whole population of Greece is not quite a -million. Our slaves would make four kingdoms as powerful in -population as Greece. Oh, when will we be the "Freest government in -the world?" We looked from the Acropolis down upon a village, but in -old times we looked upon a town. "Ah! Greece, they love thee least -who owe thee most." The women are still pretty, and what is like a -Grecian nose? Come, pilgrim, and see Athens in the days when it is -not even a shadow of its former greatness, and ask yourself if power -constitutes stability. Yes, go upon the Acropolis and gaze downward -to the top of Mars' hill, and look at the council stand of St. Paul; -raise your eyes and turn them eastward, and if your imagination is as -good as your sight, you will see the sea that in old times was -covered over with the fleet of Alexander the Great. Further off from -the shore, in the year of our Lord 1191, Richard I. of England, the -lion-hearted, crusaded along with men, women, children, cattle and -dogs, to put down infidelity on the sacred plains of Palestine, where -Abraham, Isaac and Jacob walked as types of moral light for the -salvation of mankind. Now, as you stand there on the Acropolis, as -Cecrops himself has stood, be not disgusted at what you see below, of -the so much written of towns, for though now you see Athens, it is -true you do not see herself, but "Athens a sepulchre." - - - - -BEAUTIFUL VENICE. - - -On a little slip of land between the gulf of Lepante and Athens, we -come to Corinthe; we know it not, save a few immense pillars of -marble pinnacling the site of Corinthe. Artists from all parts of the -world come here and sit down at their base to sketch their -dimensions; then away they go, with no regretful feelings for the -great founders of arts stupendous, who, perhaps, three thousand years -ago, were known far and near as men of the best faculties. The -greatest gem that Rome ever put in its crown, was the one that was -made by imagination of the Greecian dictator when listening to -Cicero, he said, "Rome has robbed us of all we possess, but our -eloquence, and it seems as if that is going towards Rome." But Rome -has since fallen as low as Athens! - -In the Ionian sea, between Sicily and Greece, are the Ionian islands, -seven in number, and Corfu is the principal one; they now all belong -to the English. Out further the East Indias, where the queen of -England has 150,000,000 subjects; on the coast of Africa, at the cape -of Good Hope, the West Indias, and the Canadas, is her sceptral wand -waving its ambrosial food of civilization. "The sun never sets on the -Queen's domain." - -Between Asia, Macedonia, and Greece is the most celebrated -archipelago in the world. Six days along the Adriatic have brought me -to Trieste, in Northern Italy. It now belongs to Austria. The -Austrian sceptre is waving over nearly half of Italy. It is generally -believed she cannot much longer hold her Italian possessions. The -army of Austria, like its eagle's wings, is stretched to its utmost -extremity of space. She could not sustain 50,000 more troops, without -breaking some of her internal machinery. Like an overflowing river, -she is most too high to rise any higher without damaging her Union. -She seems to have taken the last drop of the Italian's patience and -forbearance, while Leghorn, Lucca, Trieste, Venice, and other Italian -cities, and other foreign powers, are trying to overflow her channels -of power; they are perfectly willing that these troubled waters -should spread across the plain of the Hapsburg policy, and turn the -institution of tyranny from Hungary, Bohemia, and Italy; but the -beardless, blue-eyed Emperor seems to be as undisturbed as a god of -liberty, and heedless of the consequences of a rebellion of these -warlike people. Five hours' ride from Trieste is Venice, a city in -the sea. More lovely cities, perhaps, have been built, but I have -never seen them. As our steamer threw out her anchor about fifty -yards from the city, I could see on the other side of the city, a -railroad in the sea, and cars running along as the sea spray washed -their sides. On all sides gondolas were racing toward us, which we -went ashore in. This magnificent city is built in the sea, and it -costs more to drive down piles, in Venice, to build a house, than it -costs in London or Paris to build the whole house. - -There is one building in this city of the sea, more beautiful inside, -in its old age, than most of the best buildings of its kind, in any -kingdom in the world, are in when they are new. It is the church of -St. Mark. The body of St. Mark is in its cloisters, resting in his -magnificent tomb, like a sleeping giant that dare not be aroused. The -floor of this old gothic building is precious stones; the pillars -near the alters are alabaster. The Pope, in the Doge days of Venice, -put his foot upon the Emperor Alexander's head. All the magnificent -displays of state, even in these times, cannot be worthy of the -notice of the people of this part of the world, unless it be the will -of the Pope; he is much feared by the monarch's of to day. It has -been proven that the Napoleon of to day has been seeking the smile of -Pius IX. It seems very strange to some people, but not to me, that -the kings of England and France, in the eleventh century, should hold -the Pope's horse for him to alight. While walking around the church -of St. Mark, I saw a beautiful figure of a woman leaning gracefully -from a stool downward. I watched her to see if any miracle was about -to be performed. I saw the beautiful creature move with a blush upon -her cheek. She was confessing to an old father, of whom, I saw, was -more partial than moral worth sanctions, for as soon as she left the -box, another made application, but the priest took no notice of it, -but walked into his vestry. The applicant was an old woman, and -homely as a bone, which, I have no doubt, was qualifications for -religion not comporting with his reverence's sensitive taste of moral -obligation, to receive confessions from so ugly a source to fill up -the ranks of his beautiful herds. This poor old woman waited some -time for his return, but like gifts from lips that frequent promise, -he never came. - -This church is attached to the palace of the great Doge of Venice, -and across a canal that runs between this palace and the prison, is a -bridge. When a culprit was judged and sent across this bridge, he -never saw again his 25th hour. All the instruments the ingenuity of -man could invent, is here found to destroy the human body. I saw one -machine to put a man in, and gradually break his bones; at the crush -of each bone, he would be asked "if he would confess the crime?" -Another was a steel covering for a man's head, with seven holes in -it; the culprit's head would be firmly placed in this iron case, -whilst he would be seated on an iron block, one nail would gradually -be driven in at a time, until all the seven holes would be filled -with long nails, meeting in the centre of the head, unless he -confessed his guilt when some of the nails were hammered down. -Another machine was something like a brace for the loins, and each -end came curve like together and left it in the shape of a hoop; it -had a lock and key, and old tyrannical lords used it when they left -home, to protect their wives' virtue. He would put it around below -the loins, lock it, put the key in his pocket, and go out hunting. No -man could unlock it, and in those times false keys were not so easily -obtained as now. When he returned he would unlock it, as he could -then keep guard over her to his own satisfaction. - -From this horrid place, reader, come with me down the great canal -that traverses the whole town, with its branches, to where, at from -ten to one o'clock every day, would meet together the "merchants of -Venice." Here their financiering would daily rock thrones, but now -you see a long row of decaying old walls whose bases are wrapt in -sea-weed, like climbing serpents, that now dwell in those damp, old -commercial halls, now rotting away. I asked the guide for the site of -Desdemona's father's house, but that was forgotten. - -Here we find no horses, carriages, or cars, but myriads of gondolas -intercept the traveler at every turn of an alley or canal. On a -beautiful moonlight night, I went through the city in my gondola, and -as my oar struck the salty brine fiercely, I could see myriads of -lights reflected from the various built palaces, and the sea looked -like a diamond lawn. - - - - -VERONA AND BOLOGNA. - - -One morning, at sunrise, I was rapidly roaring towards the depot that -was to carry me to Verona. All was lone and still, for the Venicians -are no early risers. As still as the zephyr wind gondolas passed by -me, and away the ripples flew. I left this city in the sea, and about -ten o'clock arrived at Verona; a city so handsome in appearance--so -magnificent in its ruins--so picturesquely situated in a plain, I -felt as if I could dwell an age with it. Having obtained a cicerone -we repaired to the old ruined walls of Julliete's fathers' house; -afterwards the old man insisted on us going to see the half of her -tomb, which is still preserved. No traces can be found of Romeo or -his father's house or tomb. - -In Verona is many beautiful churches, the principal of which is San -Zenone. San Zenone was a black man, and was the patron of Verona. He -is represented as seated in a chair, with costly robes around him; -his face is the picture of gloom, whilst his brow is stern and -commanding. Preparations were going on for the reception of one of -the oldest Bishops of Italy. The church was thrown wide open and -workmen were employed in all parts of the inside of this edifice. -Behind the altar, was preserved some holy water, brought from Rome -for the occasion. The priest poured some out of the jug into a tin -bucket and gave it to one of his boy aids to pour in the basin found -at the entrance to all Catholic churches. This little priest boy -returned to the vestry for more, received it, but when he returned to -the basin where he had deposited the first bucket full, he discovered -that the basin was minus the first bucket of water. His great -amazement scared even the workmen. He returned to the priest and -informed him that some unforeseen cause had deprived the church of -the precious libation. The priest soon discovered the phenomenon, and -pronounced it an omen unfavorable to the reception of the great -bishop on his way here. It was talked about town that day, that the -great bishop could not be received in the aisles of San Zenone. But I -saw a thirsty boy looking in at the door, go up to the basin and -drink his fill of the holy water, brought from Rome in a jug, and -pronounced it not so good as he thought it was, by a jug full. I told -the proprietor of the hotel that a boy drank the water, and he said, -"I must be mistaken, as no one in Verona was so ignorant as to quench -thirst on holy water." Some said it was the devil thirsting for the -protection of San Zenone, for no admirer that hoped for salvation by -the intercession of this holy saint, would be guilty of such a rash -act, as they could not expect him to intercede in behalf of the -spoilers of his festivals, unless their admiration of him was so -great that they felt it their duty to partake of his blessings beyond -the power of their resistance, even of stealing them. - -On my way to the railroad station, I passed the amphitheatre, that, -in the gladiatorial days of Verona, held one hundred thousand persons -in its arena, and where they saw the lion tear the man, and again -where the man slew the lion. That same night I slept at Mantua, one -of the most strongly fortified towns of Italy, and from here I went -to Bologna and bought a sausage. This is a beautiful town so far as -churches and graveyards add to the beauty of towns, and the latter is -more extensive than the former. I informed the landlord of the hotel -Europe that I needed a guide for at least a day. He went in search of -one and returned with a schoolmaster, who had closed his school of -fifty scholars, to wait on us at the enormous sum of one ducat per -day. This was a little pert man with a body twice as long as his -legs. "Gentlemen," said he, "let us be moving, there is a great deal -to be seen before nightfall in Bologna." I informed him that I wanted -to see one of the sausage manufactories, but he seemed to be -ignorant that Bologna was celebrated in the sausage line. He asked -some wayfaring man through those old lonesome streets to tell him -where sausage was made. After seeing the manufactory and the lean -donkeys, he took me to see a gymnasium, and here I saw the insignia -of every organized people on the earth except my own, and looking for -our eagle, stars and stripes, without finding them, I asked him how -it was they could not be found. He said this institution was ten -years old, to his certain knowledge, and as we were a new people and -country, he supposed this was the reason. Bologna, like a candle, -must soon be extinguished for want of fuel of such combustibles as -will burn up the dark ignorant pile now hid from the bright light -that ought to shine supreme from the temple of wisdom of the times. - -Venice, with her sea bathed palaces, may survive it, as she is still -in beauty the "pride of the sea," more so than Bologna is the pride -of graveyards, churches and sausage. The "Two Young Men of Verona" is -better known to the world to-day than Verona or Bologna. - - - - -FIRENZA DE BELLA CITA. - - -When we were within two hours drive of Florence, the Capitol of -Tuscany and as it is also called the "Italian Capitol of fine arts," -we stopped at a hotel to dine and feed horses. The landlord having -ascertained that we might probably feel like paying something for -what he called dinner, came into the sitting room with a live chicken -by the neck and wished to know if I would order something to eat; I -answered in the affirmative, when he gave his arm a twist and off -went the chicken from his head, fluttering into nonentity. I informed -mine host that the stage would hardly wait so long as was necessary -to prepare the fowl, and he said he knew more about that than I did. -A few moments after this he returned with the crawling flesh of the -chicken, some wine and bread, as if he had done something really -worth mentioning, and said, "now sir, here is some as fresh chicken -as you ever eat, I am not like those town hotels that allow every -thing to rot and stink before they sell it." A beautiful Italian girl -that was a passenger in the dilligence with me, was waiting to get -something, and she said to me "you sir, seem to be the lucky one." I -thought it proper to give some one a small piece of the fresh -chicken, but if she had not been so pretty she might have been the -"unlucky one." Up over the door of this man's house was written, -these German words, _Gasthof Zum New York_. It not taking as much -time to dine in the Gosthof as in the stable, we took a walk to see -the extraordinary phenomena of a muddy place that one can set a -blazing with a match. Having arrived at Florence and hoteled myself I -ascertained where the races were, and was told they would commence in -thirty minutes and that my hotel window was as good a seat at the -races as I could get. I looked out of the window and saw the streets -clean as a floor of a log cabin, and written upon the corner -"Course." That was the name of the street. A few minutes after the -heralds proclaimed "that this course must be cleared" as round at the -stand the horses were on the track. This street is circular, and the -horses run round, till they come to where they start from, when the -race is awarded to the first that comes. No riders are allowed, but -the people which makes a paling round the track, hurry each horse on. -The horses don't seem to know they are running a race, because the -shouts of the populace at every window, corner and alley is so -frightening they are trying all the time to get out of the track. - -Before the races commence, a carriage with four greys is conveying an -old man and wife up a street that comes to the course and branches -off, and after the race, himself and lady is the first to ride on the -street called "_la course_;" and after his carriage every other -person has a right to enter the promenade of this man and wife, the -Grand Duke, of Tuscany. In the next carriage to his was a tall lady -with a beaux by her side, who, I learned, was the Princess, his -daughter. Next to her carriage, was a Mr. Bullion from California, -trying to pass himself off for a real American gentleman. These are -the times when men who make money in the Eldorado, come home to the -States to show off. He certainly had more money than brains. He had a -liveried carriage. The smoke curled up in little clouds behind him, -his feet were on the fore cushion of the open Calashe, and a -profusion of beard adorned all the lower extremity of his face. His -beard reminded me of Col. May's the captor of La Vega. The Duke -halted a moment causing all in the train to halt also, when Mr. B. -rose up in his carriage and looked round the Dukes carriage and told -his driver to drive on. He was informed that he could not, and he -looked up very wise as if he would like to know why. A few minutes -after the train moved, and he said to his driver "wait a little, I -don't want them to think I want to follow them." The driver stopped -and got himself in trouble, for the vehicle behind him told him to -drive on or get out of their way. Here the Police interfeared and -ordered Mr. consequence Bullion Esq., of the El Dorado to get out of -the way of gentlemen and ladies. He tried to pursuade the officers to -bear in mind he was talking to an American citizen; but there was as -much difference as space between the Torrid and Frigid Zone. The -officer gave him to understand that he might be a Florentine, but he -must get out of the way of other people. Mr. B. spit a mouthful of -juice in the carriage, threw his feet on the front cushion and told -the driver to go on. At first my national pride was somewhat lowered, -but on second thought, I gloried in knowing that Americans are not -responsible for every upstart that goes abroad and violates the rules -and regulations of other communities because they were not made to -suit his taste, for which no body ever cared but himself. The good -people of Europe know full well that there is always thistles among -roses and not all good among themselves. - -American people are not as selfish as Italians. Italians will hate a -man for ever for a Paul or Bioca. I got acquainted with an Italian at -the work shop of Hiram Powers, and this young man volunteered to show -me Florence, which would of course save me the expense of a lacquey; -and my old lacquey told me he wished this man was dead, as he had -deprived him of a Ducat. An English writer, tells a tale on -Fontenelle thus: "He once ordered some asparagus cooked in oil for -his dinner, for he was passionately fond of it; in five minutes -afterwards, an abbey came to see him on some church politics, and as -it is usual in France to ask ones friend how he wishes his dinner -cooked and name what you have, Fontenelles told the old man what he -had, and the old man said he would have half of the asparagus cooked -in butter. Fontenelles thought it a great sacrafice, but said -nothing. Thirty minutes afterward the abbey's valet came down in the -parlor and exclaimed in great sorrow that while the abbey was washing -he was taken with an apilepic fit and was dead. Fontenelles struck -the youth on the shoulders and said, "run to the kitchen and tell the -cook, to cook all the asparagus in oil."" Now this was indeed a -selfish man. Sam Slick asked a country beaux "why it was that such a -fine looking gentleman as himself was not married where so many -pretty ladies were?" His answer was "when I offer my hand to a lady, -she will be a lady!" This is another selfish man. An Irishman once -drinking his neighbors wine was too selfish to testify his -approbation of its merrits, by drinking a toast of such good wine to -his neighbor. At last he was compelled to drink one, and he said, -"here is to my wifes husband." The French is celebrated for eating, -the Yankee for his pride, and Irishmen for their toddies. - - "The lads and lasses blightly bent, - To mind both soul and body, - Set round the table weel content - And steer about the toddy." - -But I have never found even wit, to justify an Italian's selfishness, -only sublimity of meanness is an Italian's selfishness. - - - - -BACK TO PARIS - - -On my departure from Florence, I luxuriated at Lucca, the bathing -resort of the Tuscans. The city is old with stout walls around it. -Three hours ride in a viturino will bring you to the baths. They are -beautifully located, down in a valley with craggy and fertile -mountains hanging over. It was quite a place in old times, and -Counts, and Dukes and other nobles used to flock here to gamble, -until so much murder was committed, Lucca broke up the resort of -these monied men, and until very recently it was thought to be -destroyed and dead, but the Austrians, who occupy all the important -places in the government of this part of Italy, wishing to resurrect -something that has already been in the Italians' mind as a pleasant -dream, hotels have been built, and livery stables erected, for the -accommodation of the gay portion of Florence, Pisa, Genoa, Leghorn, -and even Milan. On my way from Florence to Lucca I stopped at Pisa. -Pisa is well known to the world as holding up one of the seven -wonders of the world, to the world's travelers and sight seers. I -have reference to the "leaning tower." In describing the "leaning -tower," I will merely say, that the first vast and solid layer of -stone is heavy enough to hold all the others laid upon it. Each layer -is fastened to the one under, and though it might protrude several -feet on the layers protruding side, this few feet of reaching out -stone can have no power over all the rest of that same layer around -this immense tower. The next layer protrudes on the same perched side -of the tower, and straight over the reaching edge of its under layer; -as each layer is fastened with iron spikes to its under layer, there -can be no chance of even the very top falling down on the side of the -tower. It leans so much on each layer as to make the top of the tower -reach away over the base on the leaning side, so much so that, were -it to break loose, it would fall over to the earth without touching -the base or foundation of the leaning side of the tower. - -The City of Pisa is well known in Italian history, by the awful -contentions that used to exist among next door neighbors. Men used to -fight on the top of their own houses, and go on conquering, from -house to house, until they would slay as many as twenty lords, whose -property would be theirs as spoils of war. One hour and a quarter's -ride from Pisa is Leghorn, a city full of hats and bonnets. The bay -is dotted over with little white houses, and some miles out in the -sea; and I see hundreds of small boats rowing towards bath houses. -The strongest merchants here are English, who ship Leghorn hats and -bonnets to foreign ports, as well as their own, but the city belongs -to the Hapsburg sceptre, and thousands of Austrian soldiers stand in -the by ways of public places. - -Twelve hours travel through the sea from here, brought me to the -"City of Palaces," Genoa. It is a city on the side of a hill, with -eight story palaces looking down on the sea. Before the fifteenth -century it had the inducement for traders that Lyons to-day has. Silk -was manufactured here in a way that astonished that age of pride; but -since the invention of steam, all those scientific arts that this -trade called for is but as nothing, and Italians look at our steam -power machines, and then at all their scientific arts, and like the -proud fowl that gazed downward, their feathers fall. - -I must now pass over many places and their accomplishments, and -hasten back to France, to prepare myself for the roughest voyage -yet--Egypt, Arabia and Palestine. Here is the Pyramids, Memphis, (now -Cairo) Thebes, the Nile, the Red sea, the desert of Sahara, Mount -Sinai, the tomb of Abraham, Isaac, Jacob and Joseph, at Hebron, the -city of David; and to Jerusalem, down to Jericho where the Jordan's -muddy waters slip under the briny and sulphurous liquid of the grave -God dug for Sodom and Gomorrah; and to Olives, Carmel, Tabor and -Calvary; and to Damascus, the Cedars of Lebanon, Nazareth, Bethel, -and the temple of Balbec or Baal. - -Prussia, Bavaria, Sardinia and Saxony I will pass through without -comment, more than to say that I found them separate nations of one -people, save in language. However, I will say, that of all the German -kingdoms the most despotic is Austria; but she hates slavery more -than the "freest government in the world." Austria tyrannizes over -man, but she cannot tyrannize, chattelize, and prostrate their rights -with impunity, any more than Washington, Jefferson, or Henry could. - - - - -EGYPT AND THE NILE. - - -Five months of Paris life is again spent, and with it winter has gone -by. Winter takes away and deadens the energies of a gay man, but the -spring time comes, and with it the awakening of man from his -lethargy, and like old Sol from the bed of the sea, in his majesty he -shakes himself in all his rising glory, and puts a fiery garb between -himself and all the rest of creation, to scorch the temptation that -would impede his bright and manly career. Did you ever stand by the -shore of a bed of water, reader, and see old Sol, like a mighty -giant, rise up from his wet pillow, and seem to shake his shaggy -locks, as they loosened from the abode of Neptune for more etherial -spheres, and when at his journey's end, fall again on his pillow of -the watery down? If you have, see me alike pulling away from the -festal abode of Paris' comfort, and loosening the tie of familiar -smiles, for a hard journey over a rough sea, dead lands, and a -treacherous people. Will I not be willing, as old Sol when he fell on -the western sea, to rest my mortal part on the flinty base of great -Pompey's pillar, ere the work be "did and done?" I think I will! I -have passed Marseilles, Malta in the sea, and here I am in sight of -land. Well, Mr. Captain, what are you looking after in the distance -with as much anxiety as the passengers, have you not been here -before? "Yes sir, but every body wants to see Pompey's pillar." -"That's a fact, Captain, is that his pillar?" At this stage of the -enquiry, the Captain of the great steamer Ripon, laid his telescope -down, and took hold of the ladies and gentlemen by the arm and -shoulders, and requested that they would not be so partial to only -one side of the boat, as it might dry one side of her boiler, -endangering his life, as well as theirs. "Now," said the Captain, "do -you all see that tall, monumental pillar, reaching upwards to the -right of those barracks," when answered in the affirmative, he said, -"That is Pompey's Pillar, to the left is the Pacha's palace." This -was indeed the great city of Alexandria. Here it was Diogenes built -the great temple of Diana; and over it suspended her in the air, by -attractive and non-attractive metals, such as loadstone and others. -We are coming near, and the camel boys and donkey drivers are more -numerous than any other class. Having gone a quarter of a mile -through mud, I am at the hotel, but I would as soon be any where -else, for the accommodation is sickening. A man and camel is -standing at the door, with a bullock skin full of butter for the -landlord. The landlord requested him to uncamel it, and bring it in, -after which he plated some of it for dinner. I enquired where this -butter was made, and the Bedouin told me it was made in the desert, -and in recommending it, he said it was good because he made it -himself. But the most disgusting information I got of the origin of -this butter, was, that it was made from camel's milk, and this very -camel was one of the milch camels. The landlord came to know how we -liked our dinner, and the Rev. Levi Tucker, of Boston, Mass., -enquired about this butter, and mine host stuck his finger in the -butter, and tasted thereof. I was eating a piece of roast beef at the -time, but I could not refrain from turning it over to ask myself, -"might it not be camel's meat," though I could get no answer. After -dinner, four of us Americans, headed by the Rev. Levi Tucker, called -to see his most serene highness, the Pacha of Egypt. We stood before -his palace in the court, about an hour, after which the dragoman -returned from the interior of the palace and inquired of us if we -were the President, I told him not quite. He then told us that his -serene highness had no complaint to make of us for calling on him, -and furthermore, that he had no objection to our looking over the -gardens, and at the walls of the palace, and the stable doors. Mr. -Fellowes, of New Orleans, lit a cigar, Mr. Elliot, of South -Carolina, threw a quid of tobacco among the flowers, and I plucked a -rose, and the Rev. Levi Tucker, so far descended from his gravity, to -joke by saying, "you will all be fined, look sharp!" - -This city was built by Alexander the Great, more than three hundred -years before Christ. It is on the Nile where it flows into the -Mediterranean sea, but hardly any of its ancient splendor remains to -point its site, save Pompey's Pillar, which is an immense stone column. -Some parts of its walls are traced, and a few gates of granite marble -are left to mark its spaciousness. Here used to pass the treasures of -the Indies, but since the discovery of the route, via the Cape of Good -Hope, only the mails traverse the Red sea, the Desert, and the Nile. -Alexandria is the sea-port of Egypt, and Egypt is a province of Turkey. -The Pacha pays the Sultan millions of treasure to rule this land -himself, and also binds himself to furnish so many men in time of war, -and is bound to lead them on the field if required. The present Pacha is -said to be a foreign Prince, who fought his way to the throne. He lives -here one part of the year, and the other at Cairo, the Capitol of Egypt. -Cairo is about 275 miles from Alexandria, and as the English mail from -the Indies comes there from towards the Red Sea to this place, they are -now building railroads here, to facilitate conveying it to and from -England and India. - - - - -EGYPTIAN KINGS OF OLDEN TIMES. - - -Alexander the Great, after having extended his conquest to the -Indies, returned to Babylon and there died in the thirty-third year -of his age. Byron, who died at this age, pronounces it fatal to -genius. We will not class our Savior with men of genius, as it would -not be a just comparison to his superior talent or grace, but, if -what Byron says about the turn of genius be true, there can be little -argument against him when these specimens can be taken into -consideration. After this great man's death at Babylon, his empire -was divided among the next great men of the earth, and the Egyptian -division fell to the Ptolemies. They were a great family of the upper -part of the Nile, perhaps the Thebiad, and are known to us as Ptolemy -1st, 2d and 3d, &c. These kings were very learned, for they possessed -the library of Alexandria, and which Caliph Omar burned containing -700,000 volumes of manuscript. For six months they burnt books -instead of wood to heat the water they bathed in. The word Ptolemy -means a class of kings. The emperors of Rome were known successively -as Cęsars. The Persians as Darius, just as the Louises of France -were under the designation of one, two, and three. These titles of -the throne originated with the great and kingly family of Pharaohs. -Pharaoh Hophra is the famous Pharaoh that we are acquainted with in -the scriptures. Pharaoh Necko is another celebrated Pharaoh. The -present Cairo of Egypt, was then the Capitol of the greatest kings of -the the earth, the Pharaohs. It is still a magnificent city for its -age. Its population is variously estimated to be from 175 to 300,000. -Some as fine edifices are found here as in any part of the East. It -was the Memphis of old. Here it was that Pharaoh dwelt when he -marched in pursuit of Moses, when the cloud stood between them; here -it is he is, to day, a mummy, if he was not embalmed in the Red Sea, -but distinguished not; here it is the famine raged furiously and men -sold themselves for food to Joseph; here it was that Moses had the -power to turn ashes into dust, that flew over the land with the -rapidity of a lightning flash, and infested the body of man with -boils, and still the king loved the spot too well to give up one -single foot of his powerful sway. Here it was that Greece and Italy -were schooled in all that they excelled; here it was that Moses -obtained his fundamental rules of governing nations of people, for he -was "learned in all the learning of the Egyptians," and where was -more? and here it is some one thing is found that all the Savans' -talent cannot conjecture the design of its structure, I mean the -Pyramids. I was there to day, and gazed upward 470 odd feet in the -air at its top. I say it because it is only necessary to see one to -be confounded and awe struck. It is a spacious mass of solid layers -of stone, one upon the other, and each from 25 to 32 feet in length. - -What the great kings of Egypt had such a tremendous mass of stone so -systematically put together for, is a mystery to all the learning of -our time, and still we know it must have been for no ordinary freak -of talent, intelligence and power, such a structure was reared. The -old historians tell us it took twenty years to build one, with a -force of 100,000 hands. These one hundred thousand men were relieved -every three months by another hundred thousand. These stones were -hewn from the mountains in the desert. It took ten years to make a -causeway on which to bring these immense stones to the building. Each -stone was originally adorned with engravings of animals, but now -there is no vestige of them. The two largest in Egypt, and perhaps in -the world, are these two here before Cairo. My dragoman insisted on -my crawling in and seeing the wonders, but I could make nothing out -of its hollow. It was lined with leather winged bats. If they were -the sepulchre of kings, their bodies are long gone, though secure -they might have been. In going to these Pyramids, one walks over a -pavement of dead bodies. I sunk in the sand, one hundred yards from -the pyramid of Cheops, and my foot caught in the ribs of a buried -man, which I afterwards learned to be a mummy. Oh, mummy! when the -side of the mountains was filled with the dead in old times, it was -usual to take out the oldest corpse and put them beneath the earth, -and in consequence, the whole plain, from the pyramids to Cairo, some -six or seven miles, is macadamized with dead Egyptians, perhaps some -kings and queens. I find that Pachas are reverenced here according to -their wealth. If you ask an Egyptian whether said Pacha is a great -man or not, he compares him to Pachas of a like means. The Pacha has -all the learned men of the land around him. They now, as of old, -carry their inkhorn tied to their waistband. No king, perhaps, of the -earth is so absolute in will over his people as the present Pacha of -the Turkisk empire. The kings of old time, no doubt, were more -powerful in their absolute sway. When Thebes had one hundred gates -undecayed, she could send to war, two millions of men. Such were -Egyptian kings of olden time, though black. - - - - -TRAVELING ON THE NILE EIGHT HUNDRED MILES. - - -The boat I obtained at Alexandria, was made like a keel boat. The -cabin consisted of four bed rooms with a saloon in the centre. This -cabin occupied the centre of the hull of the keel, but it left space -outside all around, and more at each end than at the sides. The -fourteen Arabs and one captain, called Reice, would either be pulling -the boat all day, or managing the sail to advantage. When the breeze -blew up the Nile, they would hoist the sail and take advantage of the -wind. We paid them for the boat, men, and their own food, 250 pounds -for the trip, but if the trip was not made in seventy days, and it is -800 miles, we then had to pay them so much for each day over, besides -this, every few days the Reice would come into the cabin for -bucksheesh; we were annoyed at every stopping place for bucksheesh. -The Indian of North America would translate bucksheesh "gim E -money." - -Our cookery was at the bow of the boat, a small space of four feet -square, and our cook was an Italian of Rome. We paid him two dollars -a day, because he was a European, and could not work for less, and by -the way, Arabs cannot cook, and will not, for any price, cook such -food as we had. Our best meat was smoked pork, and they detest this -meat. Nearly every man on our boat was named Achmit, or Mahommed; but -the Reice's name was Marmound. The Reice was a good old man, I have -often felt as if it would afford me great pleasure to sketch his -profile, when, along about noonday, he would stop our boat without -consulting us, to have his head shaved. The head shavers at all the -little dirt villages, would keep a look out for boats, and be ready -on the bank, to shave the captain's head, and make one cent. - -The speculators of the Nile could always be found on the banks at the -villages, waiting to sell a goat, a chicken, or an egg. When we would -stop a minute or two at a village, every few seconds, women or men -would come in great haste to sell, each one trying to beat the other, -some dates, cloves, or chickens. Some places, when the boat was -shoving out, some great, fat and lazy Arab would come blowing and -panting to the edge of the Nile with one single egg, that he had been -waiting for the hen to lay. One man, to make up a dozen, squeezed an -old hen until her egg bag emitted a yelk, which I refused to take as -an egg. One Arab brought us some young crocodiles he had dug out of -their nest, even while the old one was chasing him. To believe what -an Arab says when trying to sell anything, would be a sublime display -of the most profound ignorance a man could be guilty of. I have seen -Arabs, however, professing an artful talent that I have no reason to -believe can be found in the whole United States. I have reference to -what is called snake charming. - -Yesterday an Arab came aboard with a basket on his arm, and he was -literally covered or clothed with live snakes. They were crawling -over his shoulders, arms, breast, and whole body in general, and his -head was an emblem of Discord. Serpents looked in all directions, -while their forked tongues signaled their wrath, like little flashes -of lightning. This was a "snake charmer," and we concluded we would -test his skill, and gave him a quarter to go to the mountains and -call out of the rocks some of his prey. Having arrived, he sang a -melancholy strain like that of a dove in spring time, occasionally -raising his voice like a lonely crane, and after ten or fifteen -minutes of this proceeding, brought some three serpents from the -crevices of the rock, and quietly walked to them and they crawled on -his arm. He offered to guarantee one crawling on me without biting, -but I was not willing to make any contract to that effect. He -returned to the boat with us, and one of our Arabs, who was a very -incredulous man, told us that the "rascal" was possessed of no power -at all over the wild serpents, but had placed these serpents there -before, and that they were taught to come when called. But this Arab -of ours was jealous of the interesting entertainment we enjoyed. The -charmer knew not where we were taking him until we told him to call -the snakes. The Reice of our boat was afraid the charmer would get -too much bucksheesh, and called on us in our cabin to inform us, that -some months before he had seen this man with the same serpents, and I -asked him how he distinguished the serpents, and he said, "by their -color." He gave me to understand, that though we were very learned -this rascal could fool us, but with him it was very different. He -said that "old Marmoud's beard was white, but few men knew more than -he did." He appealed to our generosity, to keep some of the -bucksheesh, "don't want the rascal to get all the bucksheesh." - -At night the jackalls are quite noisy. Two came within fifty yards of -our boat, and played their howling notes some time. No Arab takes -notice of jackalls, foxes, or crocodiles. I went into six sugar -houses on the Nile, and all owned by the Pacha. No man can show his -money here without getting it borrowed. The man who refuses to loan -it to the Pacha when asked, cannot live. A wise man and his money -must part. - - - - -THEBES AND BACK TO CAIRO. - - -Two great streams rises in the Mountain of the Moon, in Abyssinia, -and unites in Nubia, and flows through Egypt, and makes what we call -"The Nile." This splendid old stream flows on gradually as in the -days of Pharaoh, and Jupiter Hammon; splendid, because in those days -its banks were walled with rich cities. The remains of Thebes stand -like Catskill mountains, unshocked. I mean the remains, the renowned -Memnonian, Luxor and Carnack. The tall columns of the Memnonian is -here like untold riddles to be explained. The paintings are as bright -to-day as any modern picture I have seen in the Louvre, at Paris. The -carved chariots on the walls convey the idea, "I see Remesees and -Pharaoh's on the battlefield." These chariots seem to have carried -only two or three warriors with their spears in the battle. On the -outside wall of this temple is carved, the exact likeness of a "man's -individual part," varying from 6 to 13 inches in length, and hanging -beneath each is two balls, seeming to be connected like the two big -parts of a heart, and both gradually sloping down together. It is -supposed, that cutting off these parts of man was the punishment or -qualification required to degrade those gents of the Remesee court, -who were too polite to the ladies. But why gallant gentlemen should -be treated so I shall leave for the conjecture of the learned reader. -Some light may be thrown on this subject by reference to the -preceeding page, on Constantinople's manner of preparing gentlemen's -nature for taking ladies to the baths. - -These great temples are situated so that it takes a man many days to -see them. They are on different sides of the Nile. Carnack is a -tremendous mass of splendid ruins. Owls and foxes dwell within; and I -saw a pretty bird, half asleep, that a man told me was a -whip-poor-will. It is no pleasant thing to stop in these ruins a few -hours alone, unless a man was possessed of no imagination at all. On -one of the splendid painted broken columns that ran up through the -hall or court of the unapproachable Pharaoh, Ptolemy, or Remese, a -fox or hawk had been breakfasting on a rabbit, and martins had their -nests perched on the side of the spreading columns that supported the -beams of solid stone, of 12 feet wide and 20 long, over head. These -ruins were sights of wonder to behold. Thebes could send to war -20,000 men from each of her hundred gates, making in all two millions -of men. But to-day her walls cannot be found; we know her but by -Carnack, and the rest of her temples, and the stadium of the Nile. - -England and America has a consul here. He is a colored man named -Mustapha. He insisted on us taking dinner with him before we left, -and so we did. He had what is called a fashionable Egyptian dinner of -to-day. The goat was cooked whole, and in a standing posture, and -when placed on the table, uncarved, the strongest fingered man gets -the best part with more ease and facility than the weaker. Whoever -has seen a skinned calf's head hanging by a butcher's stall, can -imagine how melancholy this cooked goat's head looked. - -Mr. Mustapha had no chairs or tables, but he had ample room round the -tray in the middle of the floor, where this goat is placed. We all -squatted as well as possible and dined at nine o'clock at night; each -one of us had hold of Mustapha's goat at the same time. The Consul -was indeed skilled in obtaining long pieces of tenderloin. If he is -as well posted in diplomatic affairs as in finding tender parts of a -goat, he will do honor to England and America, or Memphis of old. -About 12 o'clock Mustapha said, "all the dinner was eaten up, and now -we would have some dancing." The girls were called in, and they -stocked their bodies, and made a general preparation with their bells -tied to their waist. This was called tuning up. They went off in -their different strains, as you have heard three or four sleigh -turnouts, one after the other, and all getting together. Such a -jingling; such screwing in and out of bodies; such a gesturing; and -such a quivering of the bodies from their necks to their knees, is -only to be imagined. One girl stuck her head between her legs in -front, whilst another done the same over backwards. A few minutes -afterwards, we eat some dates, smoked some pipes, and drank some -arrack, a liquid used here as we use whisky, brandy, and gin, to -raise the spirits. The feast over, Mustapha informed us that it was -usual to pay his cook and waiter for their services. The next day he -also informed us that it was usual to pay him for being our consul, -as he performed this service for our government gratis. This is his -short cut to the meeting house of distinction and gain. We paid, -hoisted our sails, rowed away, and arrived in three weeks afterwards, -back to Cairo. - - - - -CAMELS, THROUGH THE DESERT. - - -For three of us, eighteen camels were procured, to convey us, -provisions and tents, through the desert. To every camel was a -master, who loads and unloads food and water. - -The remainder of my travels will only be described as objects are -found: no comments on their past or future. - -Having at ten o'clock, the first time in my life, mounted a camel, I -found it hard work to hold to the old riggings on his back. We went -out on the commons to the east of Cairo, and turned the head of the -camels towards Suez, on the Desert, and awaited their own movements. -The youngest went out in all directions, as far as a quarter of a -mile off; they would follow one another a few minutes, until they -would lose confidence in the ability of the leader to perform his -duty, and take the direction of another. After half an hour spent in -this way, some of the young leaders would wait and look at the old -camels and dromedaries until they would come along side, and wait -quietly until the older would take the lead, and in five minutes the -whole caravan from all directions would pull for his course, like the -different branches of a flock of wild geese that had been disturbed -by some unnatural disturbance; in twenty minutes all would be in a -straight line for Palestine. At five o'clock in the evening we camped -for the night, and while supping before our tent doors, the English -mail caravan came along from Suez with the India mail, some 400 -camels; they had left the red sea the day before, and were getting -along very well. The English are great people to meet in a strange -place, as they take pleasure in imparting all the news likely to add -to ones comfort. They asked us about Her Majesty's government, and -also about French feelings. We offered them something to drink, which -they refused, and bade us good day and went a couple of hundred yards -farther and camped. Next morning they were off before we waked up. -The next day we arrived at the red sea, crossed over, and wended our -way to Mount Sinai. We found, at the base of Mount Sinai, two -Bedouins, like lost men from their tribe, looking about as if they -were hunting something in their lonesome vallies. They rode Arab -steeds instead of camels, as we did in the Desert. I had always -believed that the desert was an arid sandy plain, but I found it more -hill than plain. Occasionally we would see a couple of gazelles on -the mountain crag, but always ready to run. - -We stayed at the convent of St. Catherine some days with the old -monks, and bought some treasures of them in the way of manna, put up -here for pilgrims in a little tin box, like mustard boxes, and also -some canes of different kinds of shrubs growing round about here. It -takes about an hour to wake the monks up from their studies, -breakfast or sleep. They lowered a sort of a hamper basket for us to -seat ourselves in, one at a time, and they pulled us up. Next morning -we prepared our luncheon for an ascent; about twelve o'clock we -reached the top where Moses held the stones. The guide showed us many -little altars and curious places, said to be sacred places, to -different ages of which he named. I could plainly see that his -information was merely traditionary, without the least shadow of -history for support. As we ascended, he showed a hole in the ground -where the sons of Levi buried their dead. I asked him how he knew -this was the history of this hole, and he said that a powerful Sheik -told him this. He meant the chief of a tribe of Bedouins. They are -called Sheiks. The Sheik who gave this important information was a -very powerful Sheik, and consequently, his opinion carried great -weight, though he could not read. He often settles questions more -important than this to the Arabs. The next day, while branching out -from Sinai and the Red Sea, we encountered a desperate tribe of -Bedouins, who demanded of us a bonus, in genuine coin, for permission -to travel through this territory. We refused to pay, and the Sheik -declared that we should. Our guide, whose name was Como, said many -years ago he traveled along the range with one Dr. Robinson who -wrote a book, and was attacked by this rascally Sheik before, and -refused to pay then, and would refuse now. He bullied up to the -Sheik, and told him he would report him to the authorities of Hebron, -who would send his complaint to Constantinople, to the Sublime Porte. -The Sheik was intimidated, and rode off in the Desert towards Petra. -After thirty-five days in the Desert, we came to Hebron, the burial -ground of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob. Here we quarantined for three -days. After traveling all these thousands of miles, the Arabs would -not let us enter the mosque built over these distinguished men's -bodies. Our camel drivers could enter, they were Arabs, and would not -defile the mosque. - - - - -JERUSALEM, JERICHO, AND DAMASCUS. - - -Passing by the mosque whose treasure is the Patriarch's bodies -covered with golden robes, the boys and women threw stones at us, -that we might know we were approaching too near their sacred dead. -They pride themselves on these sacred relics, and allow no man to -pass by without seeing their fidelity displayed. Our drivers -explained to us all they knew of the magnificence inside, but that -was poor explanation and satisfaction, as it had also to be -translated. As we left the city on our way to Jerusalem, we were -shown some two or three olive trees nearly three thousand years old. -About an hour after emerging from the city of Hebron, we met an Arab, -and inquired the distance to the Holy City, and he said, "about half -a day's camel ride." All miles are counted here by some animal's -hour's travel. At one o'clock we were passing over rolling mounds -adorned with olive trees. One was higher than the rest, and from its -summit I saw Jerusalem only half a mile ahead. Its towers were few -and scarce, and its walls were parched and charred. The mosque of -Omar's dome glittered in the sun beam, and this Mahommedan sanctum -towered above all the other buildings in this city, that was once the -"glory of the world," because of its godliness. Yes, the mosque of -the Turk looked down upon our glorious sepulchre, as it were with -contempt. I made my way straight to our humble edifice, and fell upon -the marble slabs that once entombed the flesh and blood of the -greatest man ever tabernacled in a body of flesh. In the middle of -the Latin Church, which means the church we christians of the world -built over Calvary, is another small house like a large sepulchre, -such as I have seen in New Orleans, or _Pere la Chaise_, at Paris, -and in this little house are the sides, bottom, and cover, of the -tomb of our Savior, just as it was taken from the earth and placed on -this stone floor, before this little house and the large church were -built around it. Two men were inside of the little house, one at each -end of our Savior's tomb, giving wild flowers to the visitors. These -flowers are fresh, and placed daily on the tomb beside the burning -candles, that burn night and day on this consecrated marble tomb. An -English lady, who came in before me, was prostrated on the floor, -kissing the tomb with great devotion. She was a lady of rank who had -pilgrimed here, and now had given way to her devoted feelings towards -the dull, cold marble that once, in the midst of thousands of -enemies, our Savior had lain in, uncorrupted, though bleeding and -mangled. - -The monks were passing to and fro in all directions. The best place -to locate for a short time, is in the convent attached to the church; -they make no charges against a pilgrim, but no pilgrim can come here -unless rich, and no rich man will go away without giving something to -so sacred a place as the tomb of our Savior. - -These monks are strict in all their rules, and allow none to be -treated with indifference; they allow no chickens, ducks, cats, or -dogs in the convent; as by their courting habits they might lead the -mind of man from spiritual reflections, to groveling desires. These -are undisputed facts, and I got them from the lips of a monk's aid. I -walked round the walls of this celebrated city in one hour and a -quarter, though when Titus took it, it contained about 2,000,000 -souls. But as Jerusalem was considered by the Jews impregnable, the -people from all the villages round about came here for safety. This -accounts for its having so many people when taken. I am mounting a -small Arab steed to go to Bethlehem. I can see it from here. In an -hour after leaving Jerusalem, I passed by the tomb of Lazarus, and -rode up to the walls of the convent at Bethel. It was closely shut on -all sides. Our guide demanded in an authorative tone and air for -entrance. A bare footed monk unlatched the door, and we walked in, -and were carried direct to the altar built over the manger. We saw -burning candles and flowers strewn around. We came out and wended -our way towards Jericho, it could be seen in the distance. We came to -a spring whose water was running freely, and the guide had the -impudence to tell me that the cause of this water running so freely, -was because the jawbone that Sampson fought so bravely with was -buried here. He had told me another absurd story about Jeremiah's -cave, but I was not inclined to believe anything I heard from the -people about here, because I knew as much as they did about it. I -came to Jerusalem with a submissive heart, but when I heard all the -absurdities of these ignorant people, I was more inclined to ridicule -right over these sacred dead bodies, and spots, than pay homage. - -The same evening I camped at Jericho, about a hundred yards from -where the Jordan empties into the Dead Sea. We took a bath in the -Jordan, and tried some of its water with _eau de vie_, and found it -in quality like Mississippi water. Then before we dressed, we took -another in the Dead Sea. I cannot swim, but I could not sink in this -sea; it is a strong brine of sulphur and salt, and stronger in -holding up substances than the Mediterranean or the Atlantic. No -living creature can live in it; the Jordan washes an immense quantity -of small perch-like fish into it, but they instantly die, and are -thrown out on the banks of the sea within twenty feet of the Jordan. -The Jordan is frightfully rapid, but so narrow that a child could -throw a stone across any part of it within a mile of the sea. -Rabbits and birds are plentiful here; in the shrubbery in the valley -of the Jordan I killed doves and quails enough for supper. Jericho is -not worth mentioning, as there is not even a temple here left by -time. The ground is covered with broken bricks and stones. - -Having stayed in the city of Jerusalem seventeen days, I leave it, -never wishing to return again, and am now leaving the wall, Calvary, -Moriah, and Olivet, to see Gallilee, Tabor, Nazareth, and Damascus. I -saw the sea, as no doubt it was when the whale vomited; I saw the -little house where water was turned into wine, I saw Tabor, ascended -and took my chances with the wild boar; I returned from Tabor to -Nazareth, where I had left my baggage and provisions; eat some -camel's meat. The soldiers were preparing for army stores, and I -hurried on to Damascus to hear something about the decrees of St. -Petersburg against the sublime Porte. The Turks all through Palestine -were preparing for war; they said this year, 1853, was going to be a -memorable one; the crescent and the cross were to shine gloomily, for -the hungry Russian bear was seeking food beyond his lair. About the -1st of July I arrived at the Paradise-plain City of Damascus, and -bought a blade. I bought some silks, and old swords, celebrated as -Damascus blades were, with one I cut a half a dollar into two pieces. -The ambassadors of different nations were informing their country's -subjects that it was best to be among the missing, and said that some -Russians were here yesterday, but were now gone to parts unknown. -These ambassadors were more frightened than their subjects; one said -to Col. Fellowes and myself, "as soon as the Sultan declares war, no -christian will be allowed to pass the barrier of his boundary," and -as this is said to be a quarrel on religion, every christian head -might fall "that is found where waves the little Turkish flag of the -crescent and the cross." I packed my trunk, paid my bill, and left -Damascus and its sights, and traveled towards the Mediterranean. I -looked at my old Damascus blade, and thought of those sharp -scymaters, like reap hooks, and as I could see one in my imagination, -I felt all over, and spurred towards Joppa. - - - - -CONCLUSION. - - -I am now letting loose the thread of my knowledge; the broach is -turning from me to pull away the end, and with it the satisfaction -that though its a hard broach to tie to, I have spun _no yarn_. The -reader that only believes what he can see, through a limited source -of facts, is always losing time and money, to read another man's -knowledge; but the one who is always seeking to add to the stock of -knowledge which he already has, is sure to gain time and knowledge in -the stride of life. - -On my way to Joppa I passed through Lebanon, took a glance at the old -cedars, which I can pronounce nothing but spruce pine. I brought some -of the burrows home to New Orleans, and they received from my friends -the appellation above. An old man close to the little group of -cedars, offered me his virgin daughter for the sum of twenty-five -dollars; he seemed to be in great want of money. I hurried to Acre, -and looked at its strong walls, and heard its foolish citizens talk -of the impossibility of any nation being strong enough to take it. - -Jaffa is the present name of Joppa. It was formerly the sea port town -of Palestine; it has suffered much from being the gate city of Syria. -Here, at Jaffa, I took passage to Marseilles, France, and arrived -there just as the emperor of Morocco, who had been visiting France, -was departing, himself and retinue, for Morocco, the Capitol of his -Empire. I arrived back to Paris before the last of July. On the -second day of September, the Franklin backed out from the wharf at -Havre, France, with a splendid trip of passengers for New York city. -Among these were Charles W. March, private secretary of Mr. Webster, -and Geo. W. Kendall, the traveling editor of the New Orleans -Picayune. They seemed to me the happiest men aboard; they eat their -good dinners, drank their good wines, and came on deck and inquired -of me my opinion of thousands of little things that I thought hardly -worth noticing. I am passing by England and Wales for home, my -journey must be considered done. Youth is ever ready to be where it -seems no advantage to him; and it is a long time before he can -surfeit on curiosity, enough to say, "alack, and well-a-day!" The -aged are rough and ready implements of the world, they are too -tightly riveted to their designs to let loose when they are -absolutely in danger; yes, Old Fogy goes on like a saw on a nail, -determined to go through because he had the power, heedless of the -consequences, and determined to make the nail suffer for attempting -to impede his progress; he soon finds his sawing propensities -broken, and much the worse for wear. But not so with youth. I feel in -taking leave of this work, as if I was parting with an old and -familiar friend that I could stay much longer with, but I am afraid -to stay much longer lest I enhance its value as a friend. _A friend?_ -Yes, a friend! - -James says that men of talent are often seen with many books before -them, extracting their contents and substances. Were such men -authors? No! but imitators; they wrote few impressions because few -were made; they merely confirmed what others proved. - -Like an anxious boy, in the ardor of anxiety to describe, I may fail, -but I tell the thing as I saw it. - -Should the reader think strange that I could find pleasure in these -curious and strange places for a young man to be in, wherein they may -occasionally find me, he must bear in mind that those are the only -places and streams where flows the tide of curiosity from the mind of -a youthful channel. There is no sameness about youth; like the clock -when down, he must be wound up, or there can be shown no fine work in -the machinery of a career of glory. Henry kindled his own fire, -Washington paddled his own canoe, and for a bright manhood, youth -must find his own crag on the mountain, rivet his eye of determined -prosperity up the cliffy wiles of life, kick assunder impediments and -obstacles, and climb on! When you hear _can't_, laugh at it; when -they tell you _not in your time_, pity them; and when they tell you -_surrounding circumstances alter cases_, in manliness scorn them as -sleeping sluggards, unworthy of a social brotherhood. - -All are obliged to unite when a question of _might_ against _right_ -comes up, as it is now before the world. Dickens says, "no doubt that -all the ingenuity of men gifted with genius for finding differences, -has never been able to impugn the doctrine of the unity of man." He -further says, "The European, Ethiopean, Mongolian, and American, are -but different varieties of one species." He then quotes Buffon, "Man, -white in Europe, black in Africa, yellow in Asia, and red in America, -is nothing but the same man differently dyed by climate." Then away -with your _can't_; when backed to the wall by the debator, you had -better say _nothing_ than _can't_. You had better say, as I say while -taking leave of you, _au revoir_. - - - * * * * * - -Transcriber's Notes: - -Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. - -Obvious printer's errors corrected. - -Every effort has been made to replicate this text as faithfully as -possible, including obsolete and variant spellings, inconsistent -hyphenation, unclear grammatical usage, and other inconsistencies. - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's A Colored Man Round the World, by David F. 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