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diff --git a/old/55735-h/55735-h.htm b/old/55735-h/55735-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 033cfad..0000000 --- a/old/55735-h/55735-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,25882 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> - <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=utf-8" /> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> - <title> - The Project Gutenberg eBook of Perfumes And Their Preparation, by George William Askinson, Dr. Chem.. - </title> - <link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> - <style type="text/css"> - -body { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - -/* Headings*/ - -h1 -{ - margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: .5em; - text-align: center; - font-size: x-large; - font-weight: normal; - line-height: 1.36; -} - - h2,h3,h4{ - text-align: center; - clear: both; - } -h2 {font-size: 120%;} -h3 {font-size: 100%;} -h4 {font-size: 90%;} - -div.chapter {page-break-before: always;} - -.half-title { - margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 2em; - text-align: center; - font-size: x-large; - font-weight: normal; - line-height: 1.6; - } - -/* Paragraphs */ - -p {text-indent: 1em; - margin-top: .75em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .75em; - } - -.spaced {margin-top: 3em; margin-bottom: 3em;} - -.hang { - text-align: justify; - padding-left: 1.75em; - text-indent: -1.75em; - } - - -hr.tb {width: 45%; margin-left: 27.5%; margin-right: 27.5%;} -hr.chap {width: 65%; margin-left: 17.5%; margin-right: 17.5%;} - -/* Lists */ - -ul.index { list-style-type: none; } -li.ifrst { margin-top: 1em; } -li.indx { margin-top: .5em; } -li.isub1 {text-indent: 1em;} - -/* Tables */ - -table { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; -} - - .tdrb {text-align: right; vertical-align: bottom;} - .tdh { - text-align: left; - padding-left: .75em; - text-indent: -.75em; - } - .tdrbt {text-align: right; border-top: 1px solid black;} - .tdcbr {text-align: center; border-right: 1px solid black;} - .tdlbr {text-align: left; border-right: 1px solid black;} - .thcbr {text-align: center; border-right: 1px solid black; - border-top: 1px solid black; border-bottom: 1px solid black;} - .tdli {text-align: left; text-indent: .75em;} - -.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ - /* visibility: hidden; */ - position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: smaller; - text-align: right; -} /* page numbers */ - -.gap35 {padding-left: 35%;} -.gap40 {padding-left: 40%;} - -.center {text-align: center;} - -.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - -.xs {font-size: x-small;} -.small {font-size: small;} - -/* Images */ - -img {border: none; max-width: 100%} -.caption {font-size: smaller; font-weight: bold;} - -.figcenter { - margin: 1em auto; - text-align: center; - } - -.figleft { - float: left; - clear: left; - margin-left: 0; - margin-bottom: 1em; - margin-top: 1em; - margin-right: 1em; - padding: 0; - text-align: center; -} - -.figright { - float: right; - clear: right; - margin-left: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - margin-top: 1em; - margin-right: 0; - padding: 0; - text-align: center; - } - -/* Transcriber's notes */ - -.transnote { - background-color: #E6E6FA; - color: black; - font-size:smaller; - padding:0.5em; - margin-bottom:5em; - font-family:sans-serif, serif; - } - - </style> - </head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Perfumes and their Preparation, by -George William Askinson - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Perfumes and their Preparation - Containing complete directions for making handkerchief - perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils;... - -Author: George William Askinson - -Translator: Isidor Furst - -Release Date: October 12, 2017 [EBook #55735] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION *** - - - - -Produced by Chris Curnow, Les Galloway and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - -<h1> -PERFUMES<br /> -<small>AND THEIR PREPARATION</small>.</h1> - -<p class="center xs">CONTAINING</p> - -<p class="center small">COMPLETE DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING HANDKERCHIEF PERFUMES,<br /> -SMELLING-SALTS, SACHETS, FUMIGATING PASTILS; PREPARATIONS<br /> -FOR THE CARE OF THE SKIN, THE MOUTH,<br /> -THE HAIR; COSMETICS, HAIR DYES, AND<br /> -OTHER TOILET ARTICLES.</p> - -<p class="center xs">WITH A</p> - -<p class="center small">DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF AROMATIC SUBSTANCES; THEIR<br /> -NATURE, TESTS OF PURITY, AND WHOLESALE<br /> -MANUFACTURE.</p> - -<p class="center"><span class="xs">BY</span><br /> -GEORGE WILLIAM ASKINSON, <span class="smcap">Dr. Chem.</span>,<br /> - -<span class="xs">MANUFACTURER OF PERFUMERY</span>.</p> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap xs">Translated from the Third German Edition by</span><br /> -<small>ISIDOR FURST</small>.<br /> - -<span class="xs">(WITH CORRECTIONS AND ADDITIONS BY SEVERAL EXPERTS.)</span></p> - -<p class="center xs"><b>Illustrated with 32 Engravings.</b></p> - - -<div class="center xs"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td>NEW YORK:</td> - <td>LONDON:</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td>N. W. HENLEY & CO., </td> - <td> E. & F. N. SPON,</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><span class="smcap">150 Nassau St.</span></td> - <td><span class="smcap">125, Strand.</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td colspan="2">1892.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - - - - -<p class="center xs spaced"> -<span class="smcap">Copyrighted</span>, 1892,<br /> -<span class="smcap">by</span><br /> -NORMAN W. HENLEY & CO. -</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_iii">iii</span></p> - - - - -<h2 id="PREFACE">PREFACE.</h2> - - -<p>The great progress which the art of perfumery has made -during recent times is due to several causes, the chief one of -which is fully realized only by the manufacturer on a large -scale, who stands, as it were, behind the scenes and has access -to facts and information concerning the materials he uses, -which are not so easily accessible to the dilettante in perfumery, -or remain altogether unknown to the latter. This -important factor is the advance in our knowledge of the physical -and chemical properties of the several substances used in -perfumery, whereby we can better discriminate between the -genuine and the spurious, the choicest and the inferior, thus -insuring, at the very start, a satisfactory result, instead of -being compelled to resort to wasteful experimentation and -empiricism. A better knowledge has also been gained of the -sources of the commercial varieties of many of the crude products, -and a better insight into the conditions affecting their -qualities or properties. A more exhaustive study of the proximate -principles of many of the essential oils has thrown an -entirely new light upon this heretofore obscure class of bodies, -placing into our hands new products of definite chemical composition, -unvarying in physical properties, and many of them -valuable additions to the perfumer’s stock of ingredients. -Synthetic chemistry has also added to the list of materials -required by the perfumer, and is surely going to add many -more to it hereafter. Though some of these, like the new -artificial musk, are not yet in a condition to enter into serious<span class="pagenum" id="Page_iv">iv</span> -competition with the natural products, yet it is merely a question -of time when the latter need no longer be depended -upon. The increasing demands for the staple articles used -by the perfumer have also caused a large increase in the cultivation -of many important plants in various parts of the -world, and have led to the establishment of new plantations, -in some cases to such an extent that the commercial relations -have been entirely revolutionized, new territories producing -larger crops and a finer product than the old home of the -plant. The exploration of hitherto unknown or imperfectly -known countries has also largely added to the perfumer’s -art, and is likely to continue to do this for a long time to -come, since it is now well known that vast districts, more particularly -in tropical Africa, are inhabited by a flora abounding -in new odoriferous plants.</p> - -<p>In spite of all this expansion of the perfumer’s stock of -trade, however, which results in the periodical introduction -of new compounds, there is a very large number of popular -odorous mixtures which remain in steady demand, having -taken such firm root among civilized nations that they are -not likely to be displaced. It is more particularly with a view -to afford information regarding these latter that a work like -the present is desirable and necessary. A treatise on perfumery -is expected to place into the hands of the purchaser -reasonably reliable processes for preparing the most generally -approved simple or compound perfumes, as well as accurate -information concerning the origin and properties of the various -ingredients, together with practical hints regarding the -determination of their genuineness and purity.</p> - -<p>It is a frequent complaint of those who make preparations -after formulas published in works like the present, that -they do not succeed in obtaining fully satisfactory products. -Another complaint of purchasers of such works is this: that -they fail to find formulas yielding preparations identical in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_v">v</span> -every respect with certain celebrated perfumes which have -made the reputation and fortune of certain firms. Regarding -the first complaint, we would say that the failure lies generally -with the complainant himself, through carelessness in -the selection of the materials or disregard of the given directions. -Concerning the second complaint, a moment’s reflection -must convince any one that formulas which are the result of -the study and experimentation of years, and the products of -which are the main stock of trade of certain firms, are carefully -guarded, and not likely to be communicated to others. -Moreover, in many cases even a publication of the component -parts would not be of much avail, for the manufacturer on -the large scale has facilities for blending and seasoning his -products which the maker on a small scale does not possess, -and it is this part of the art particularly upon which the quality -of the products depends.</p> - -<p>In preparing the present treatise for the American public -many changes were found necessary in the original text, in -order to make the information given more correct or definite, -and so bring the work more abreast of the present time. In -addition to various improvements and additions made in -the working formulas comprising the second portion of the -work, the description of the natural products used as ingredients, -upon the quality and selection of which the success -of the perfumer mostly depends, has been carefully -revised, and so far as the objects of this work required, -completed by Dr. Charles Rice, Associate Editor of -<cite>American Druggist</cite>, etc., in consultation with several experts -in the art of perfumery.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_vi">vi</span></p> -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_vii">vii</span></p> - - - - - -<h2 id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS.</h2> -<hr class="small" /> - - -<div class="center small"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</a>.</td> - <td class="tdrb"><small>PAGE</small></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The History of Perfumery</td> - <td class="tdrb">1</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">About Aromatic Substances in General</td> - <td class="tdrb">6</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Odors from the Vegetable Kingdom</td> - <td class="tdrb">13</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Aromatic Vegetable Substances Employed in Perfumery</td> - <td class="tdrb">20</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Animal Substances Used in Perfumery</td> - <td class="tdrb">57</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Chemical Products Used in Perfumery</td> - <td class="tdrb">63</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh"><span style="margin-left: 1em;">A. Chemicals Used for the Extraction of Aromatic Substances</span></td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh"><span style="margin-left: 1em;">B. Chemical Products Used for the Preparation of Perfumes</span></td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_68">68</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh"><span style="margin-left: 1em;">C. The Colors Used in Perfumery</span></td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Extraction of Odors</td> - <td class="tdrb">87</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Special Characteristics of Aromatic Substances</td> - <td class="tdrb">118</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Adulteration of Essential Oils and their Recognition</td> - <td class="tdrb">139</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Essences or Extracts Employed in Perfumery</td> - <td class="tdrb">146</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Directions for Making the Most Important Essences and Extracts</td> - <td class="tdrb">150</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Division of Perfumery</td> - <td class="tdrb">166</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Manufacture of Handkerchief Perfumes, Bouquets, or Aromatic Waters</td> - <td class="tdrb">167 -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_viii">viii</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Formulas for Handkerchief Perfumes</td> - <td class="tdrb">169</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Ammoniacal and Acid Perfumes</td> - <td class="tdrb">199</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Dry Perfumes</td> - <td class="tdrb">207</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Formulas for Dry Perfumes (Sachets)</td> - <td class="tdrb">209</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Perfumes Used for Fumigation</td> - <td class="tdrb">214</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Hygienic and Cosmetic Perfumery</td> - <td class="tdrb">225</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">CHAPTER XX</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Preparations for the Care of the Skin</td> - <td class="tdrb">227</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI">CHAPTER XXI</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Formulas for the Preparation of Emulsions, Meals, Pastes, Vegetable Milk, -and Cold-Creams</td> - <td class="tdrb">230</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII">CHAPTER XXII</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Preparations Used for the Care of the Hair (Pomades and Hair Oils)</td> - <td class="tdrb">245</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII">CHAPTER XXIII</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Formulas for the Manufacture of Pomades and Hair Oils</td> - <td class="tdrb">247</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV">CHAPTER XXIV</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Preparations for the Care of the Mouth</td> - <td class="tdrb">257</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXV">CHAPTER XXV</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Cosmetic Perfumery</td> - <td class="tdrb">269</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI">CHAPTER XXVI</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Skin Cosmetics and Face Lotions</td> - <td class="tdrb">270</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII">CHAPTER XXVII</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Hair Cosmetics</td> - <td class="tdrb">280</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVIII">CHAPTER XXVIII</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Hair Dyes and Depilatories</td> - <td class="tdrb">285</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIX">CHAPTER XXIX</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Wax Pomades, Bandolines, and Brillantines</td> - <td class="tdrb">294</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXX">CHAPTER XXX</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Colors Used in Perfumery</td> - <td class="tdrb">297</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXI">CHAPTER XXXI</a>.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Utensils Used in the Toilet</td> - <td class="tdrb">301</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">1</span></p> - - - - -<p class="half-title"><span class="smcap">Perfumes and their Preparation.</span></p> - - - -<hr /> -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a><br /> - -<small>THE HISTORY OF PERFUMERY.</small></h2> - - -<p>The gratification of his senses is peculiar to man, and it -is to this trait that we are indebted for all the arts. The activities -which aimed at the gratification of the eye and ear -developed into the creative arts and music, and in like manner -human endeavor directed toward the stimulation of the -sense of smell has in our time assumed the proportions both -of an art and a science; for it was nothing but the advancement -of chemistry that made it possible to fix all the pleasant -odors offered by nature and to create new perfumes by the -artistic combination of these scents. The preparation of perfumes -is a very ancient art that is met with among all peoples -possessed of any degree of civilization. It is particularly the -ancient nations of the Orient which had in truth become -masters in the manufacture of numerous perfumes.</p> - -<p>The first perfume was the fragrant flower; it has continued -to be so to the present day: the sprig of dried lavender -flowers which we lay in the clothes-press was probably used -for the same purpose by the contemporaries of Aristotle. In -the Orient, which we may look upon as the cradle of the art -of perfumery, the idea suggested itself early to substitute for -the delicious fragrance of the flowers some substances of -lasting odor; various sweet-scented resins supplied the ma<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">2</span>terial -for this purpose. The use of these aromatic resins -must have been very extensive: the ancient Egyptians alone -consumed extraordinary quantities for embalming their dead. -How highly the Oriental peoples in general prized perfumes -can be learned from the Bible: the Jews (like the Catholics -to the present day) employed an aromatic gum-resin (olibanum, -frankincense) in their religious ceremonies; in the Song -of Solomon mention is made of Indian perfumes, for instance, -cinnamon, spikenard, myrrh, and aloes.</p> - -<p>Altogether, incense played a prominent part in the religious -ceremonies of the ancient Western Asiatic nations—among -many peoples under a theocratic government it was -even believed to be sinful to use incense for other than religious -purposes. The Bible teaches us that Ezekiel and Isaiah -protested against it, and that Moses even prescribed the -preparation of certain kinds of incense for use in the tabernacle.</p> - -<p>Among the most highly civilized people of antiquity, the -Greeks, a large number of fragrant substances, as well as oils perfumed -with them—that is to say, perfumes in the same sense as -we still understand the term—was known; this will be no surprise -to those familiar with the culture of this remarkable people. -The odor of violets was the favorite among the Greeks; besides -this they used the scent of the different mints, thyme, -marjoram, and other aromatic plants. This was carried so -far as to become a matter of fashion for the Greek fop to use -only certain odors in the form of ointments for the hair, others -for the neck, etc. In order to prevent this luxury which was -carried to such an excess, Solon even promulgated a law that -interdicted the sale of fragrant oils to Athenian men (the law -did not apply to the women).</p> - -<p>The Romans, who were the pupils of the Greeks in all the -arts, carried the luxury with perfumes perhaps even farther. -In ancient Rome there was a very numerous guild of per<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">3</span>fumers -called <i lang="la">unguentarii</i>; they are said to have had a street -to themselves in Capua. A Patrician Roman anointed himself -three times daily with precious, sweet-scented oils which -he personally took along into his bath in golden vessels of -exquisite workmanship, so-called nartheciæ. At the funeral -of his wife Poppæa, Nero is said to have used as incense more -odorous substances than could be produced in one year in -Arabia, at that time the only reputed source of perfumes. -This luxury went so far that during the games in the open -amphitheatres the whole air was filled with sweet odors ascending -from numerous censers arranged in a circle. The -apartments of well-to-do Romans always contained large and -very valuable urns filled with dried blossoms, to keep the air -permanently perfumed.</p> - -<p>Roman extravagance with perfumes was carried to such -an excess that under the consulate of Licinius Crassus a law -was passed which restricted the use of perfumery, there being -good reason to fear that there would not be enough for the -ceremonies in the temples.</p> - -<p>With the migration of the almost savage Huns and Goths, -the refinement of morals ceased, progress in civilization was -retarded for centuries, and at the same time the use of perfumes -disappeared entirely in Europe; but it was otherwise -in the Orient. As an instance we may mention the prophecy -of Mohammed, who promised in the Koran to the faithful in -paradise the possession of black-eyed houries whose bodies -were composed of the purest musk.</p> - -<p>The Arabs, the ancient masters of chemistry, were also the -first founders of the art of perfumery. Thus the Arabian -physician Avicenna, in the tenth century, taught the art of -preparing fragrant waters from leaves, and Sultan Saladin, in -1157, on his triumphal entry, had the walls of the mosque of -Omar washed with rose water.</p> - -<p>It was the intercourse with the Orient brought about by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">4</span> -the Crusades that made Europeans again more familiar with -the art of perfumery, and a number of new odors rapidly became -known. Italy and France, in those times the representatives -of culture, were the countries in which the preparation -of perfumes was carried on on a large scale. Thus, for instance, -we find the name of a Roman family preserved to the present -day because one of its members had combined a sweet-scented -powder, called Frangipanni after its inventor, which is still -in favor, and because his grandson Mauritius Frangipanni had -made the important discovery that by treating this powder -with spirit of wine the fragrant substance could be obtained -in a fluid form.</p> - -<p>The fact has been frequently related and repeated, that -Catherine de Medici, the wife of Henry II., had made use of -the fashion of perfuming the body for the purpose of ridding -herself of objectionable persons, by giving them scented gloves -prepared and at the same time poisoned by a Florentine -named René (Renato?). We think this tale to be simply a -hair-raising fable—modern chemistry knows no substance the -mere touch of which could produce the effect of a fatal -poison; and it is scarcely credible that such a material had -been known at that time and lost sight of since.</p> - -<p>In the sixteenth century, especially at the court of Queen -Elizabeth, perfumes were used with great extravagance; in -fact, were looked upon as one of the necessaries of life. This -luxury was carried still farther at the courts of the sumptuous -kings of France; Louis XV. went so far as to demand every -day a different odor for his apartments. A lady’s lover always -used the same kind of perfume she did.</p> - -<p>It is well known that among the Oriental nations perfumes -are used so largely that even food is flavored with rose water, -musk, etc.; and Indian and Chinese goods always possess a -peculiar aroma which is so characteristic for certain products -that it was considered to be a sign of genuineness; this was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">5</span> -the case, for instance, with the patchouly odor which always -adheres to Indian shawls.</p> - -<p>A shawl-maker of Lyons, who had succeeded in perfectly -imitating Indian shawls with reference to design and colors, -spent a fabulous sum to obtain possession of the plant used -by the Indian weavers for perfuming their wares. Despite -the great outlay caused by the search for this plant, the manufacturer -is said to have done a flourishing business with his -“genuine” Indian shawls.</p> - -<p>In more recent times the great extension of trade to the -farthest countries of the globe, and still more the progress of -chemistry, have made us familiar with a number of new perfumes. -More than two hundred different aromatic substances -are now known, and still they are far from being exhausted; -every year new odoriferous plants become known, from which -the chemist extracts perfumes. By this means, as well as by -the enormous employment of perfumes in all grades of society, -the art of their preparation has risen to a higher plane; out -of empiricism, which alone prevailed a few decades ago, into -the domain of the chemical sciences.</p> - -<p>Since the appearance of the last edition of this book, the -art of perfumery has made noteworthy progress both with -reference to the knowledge of new aromatic substances and -to improvement in the methods of their preparation; by the -introduction of glycerin, solid and liquid vaselin, and salicylic -acid into perfumery, one of its branches—hygienic cosmetics—has -made an important advance.</p> - -<p>At present it is particularly France and England whose -perfumery industry is most extensive and which to some extent -rule the markets of the world; southern France and Algiers -especially furnish the best raw materials, the finest essential -oils for the manufacture of perfumes at the chief centres, -Paris and London.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">6</span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a><br /> - -<small>ABOUT AROMATIC SUBSTANCES IN GENERAL.</small></h2> - - -<p>We apply the term perfume—which really means a fumigating -material—to those substances which make an agreeable -impression upon our sense of smell; the French call them -briefly <i lang="fr">odeurs</i>, <i>i.e.</i>, odors. The high degree of development -at present attained by this industry in France and England is -the cause of the fact that all perfumes are generally sold under -French or English names, which must be borne in mind by -manufacturers in this country.</p> - -<p>Perfumes or scents, however, exert not only an agreeable -impression on the olfactory organ, but their effect extends to -the entire nervous system, which they stimulate; when used -in excess, they are apt to cause headache in sensitive persons; -the laborers in the chemical factories where these substances -are produced on a large scale, occasionally even suffer by -reason of their stimulating action on the nerves. For this -reason perfumes should never be employed otherwise than in -a very dilute condition; this necessity arises from a peculiarity -of the odorous substances which when concentrated and -pure have by no means a pleasant smell and become fragrant -only when highly diluted. Oil of roses, of orange flowers, or -of jasmine, in fact nearly all aromatic substances, have an -almost disagreeable odor when concentrated; only in an extremely -dilute state they yield those delightful scents which we -admire so much in the blossoms from which they are derived.</p> - -<p>It will be easier to understand the almost incredible productiveness -of perfumes if we cite as an instance that a few<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">7</span> -centigrams of musk placed on a sensitive scale can for years -fill a large hall with their characteristic odor without showing -an appreciable loss of weight, and still particles must separate -from the musk and become evenly diffused through the air of -the hall because the odor is perceptible throughout every -part of it.</p> - -<p>It would be an error, however, were we to assume that all -aromatic substances possess the same degree of productiveness; -some of them, as for instance the odorous principle of -orris root, have a comparatively faint smell—a fact which -must be borne in mind in the combination of perfumes. Even -odors having a very similar effect on the olfactory nerves -differ widely in their intensity; for instance, true oil (attar) of -roses possesses an intensity more than twice as great as that -of the rose geranium; many authorities agree in giving the -proportion as three to eight, the first figure being that of rose -oil, the second that of oil of rose geranium. Therefore, in -order to produce perfumes of equal intensity (having the same -effect on the olfactory nerves), we must dissolve in an equal -quantity of the menstruum either three parts by weight of -the attar of roses or eight parts of the oil of rose geranium.</p> - -<p>In the prescriptions for the preparation of perfumes given -in this book, these proportions have been carefully weighed; -but it will be the office of the trained olfactory sense of the -manufacturer to modify them for the various kinds of perfumery -in such a way as to produce a truly harmonious pleasant -odor.</p> - -<p>Although we know many aromatic substances, we are still -in ignorance as to the preparation of certain decidedly agreeable -odors. Thus no one at present is able to produce the refreshing -odor of the sea borne along on the wind, any more -than we are able to reproduce the scent exhaled by the forest, -especially after a warm rain; chemistry, though it has done -much in the domain of perfumery, has thus far thrown no light<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">8</span> -upon it. Even certain vegetable odors—for instance, the -delightful perfume exhaled by some Aroideæ and Primulaceæ—we -cannot as yet preserve unchanged in perfumery. This -opens an illimitable field for future activity to the progressive -manufacturer.</p> - -<p>In a book devoted to the production of perfumes it would -certainly be in place to say something about the physiological -relations of the olfactory sensations; but unfortunately this -interesting part of physiology is still enveloped in great obscurity. -All we know positively on this subject is that many -particles of the odorous bodies evaporate and must come in -contact with the olfactory nerves in order to produce the -sensation of odor. There is no lack of experiments seeking -to draw a parallel between sensations of smell and those of -hearing, and, as is well known, we speak of a harmony and -dissonance of odors as we do of tones. Piesse, the renowned -perfumer, has even made an attempt to arrange the different -odors in a “harmonic scale” having the compass of the piano, -and to deduce therefrom a law for the mixture of the several -aromatic substances. This attempt, although very ingenious, -still lacks a scientific foundation. Piesse endeavors to combine -the several scents like tones to produce chords in different -scales; the chords of odors are to agree with those of -tones. Thus far, however, no proof has been furnished that -the olfactory nerve and the acoustic nerve have the same -organization, and under this supposition alone could Piesse’s -system be accepted as correct.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">The Division of Aromatic Substances According to -their Origin.</span></h3> - -<p>The majority of the substances used in perfumery are derived -from the vegetable kingdom, but some come from the -animal kingdom, and for others which do not occur complete -in nature we are indebted to chemistry. As is well<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">9</span> -known, most blossoms possess a decided odor, which is extremely -fragrant in some; yet it is not the blossoms alone, -but in different genera various parts are distinguished by -agreeable odors. In some plants the fragrant substances are -contained in every part, as in different pines and the mints; -in others, only in the fruits (nutmeg, vanilla), while the other -parts are odorless; in certain plants only the rinds of the -fruits contain an aromatic substance (oranges, lemons). In -the Florentine Iris the entire plant is odorless—only its root -stock possesses an agreeable, violet-like scent; while, for instance, -in the camphor-tree an aromatic substance exists in -the wood, in the cinnamon laurel in the bark, in the clove-tree -mainly in the closed buds.</p> - -<p>But taking the aromatic plants all together, we find that it -is particularly their flowers which contain the finest odors, -and that the majority of perfumes are prepared from their -blossoms.</p> - -<p>From the animal kingdom we take for the purposes of perfumery -only a very small number of substances, among which, -moreover, some peculiar relation exists; while, for instance, -all men would call the odor of violets, roses, vanilla, etc., -agreeable, the odor of some animal substances is decidedly -obnoxious to many persons, though others like it—an observation -which can be verified often with reference to musk.</p> - -<p>With the advancement of science, chemical products find -application in ever increasing numbers; among them are substances -which owe their origin directly to the vegetable kingdom, -while others, such as nitrobenzol and pine-apple ether, -are only indirectly derived from it.</p> - -<p>From what has been stated, we learn that our attention -must be directed particularly to those scents which are derived -from the vegetable kingdom. To the manufacturer of -perfumery, however, it is a matter of importance whence the -plants are obtained which he uses for the preparation of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">10</span> -odors; a very slight change in the soil often makes a great -difference in the quality of one and the same species; we see -this quite clearly in our ordinary strawberry. While the wild -fruit is but small in size it has a delightful aromatic flavor, -and the same species transplanted into gardens attains much -greater size but possesses only a faint aroma not to be compared -with that of the wild variety. The Lombardian violet -is large and beautiful, but the German has a much more pleasant -odor. On the other hand, the blossoms of the orange-tree -obtained from the plants cultivated in pots cannot be compared -with reference to their odor with these growing in the -Riviera, the strip of coast land of the Mediterranean from -Marseilles to Genoa. Altogether the last-named region and -the south of France may be called the true garden of the -perfumer; in the neighborhood of Grasse, Cannes, Nice, Monaco, -and some other towns, extensive plots of ground are set -with aromatic plants such as orange-trees, Acacia farnesiana, -jasmine, violets, etc., whose products are elaborated in large, -well-appointed chemical factories solely devoted to the extraction -of their odors. The proximity of the sea-coast, with -its favorable climate almost free from frost, permits the cultivation -of southern plants, while in the more elevated parts -of the country the adjoining Maritime Alps cause a more -changeable climate which adapts them to certain other sweet-scented -plants.</p> - -<p>The great value of the annual production of the French -flower farms at Cannes, Grasse, and Nice will be evident from -the following figures. The harvesting and elaboration of the -flowers at the points named give employment to fifteen thousand -persons, and the average annual production is:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orange flowers,</td> - <td align="right">2,000,000</td> - <td align="center">kgm.,</td> - <td align="center">valued at</td> - <td align="right">2,000,000</td> - <td align="center">francs.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Roses,</td> - <td align="right">500,000</td> - <td align="center">"</td> - <td align="center">"</td> - <td align="right">500,000</td> - <td align="center">"</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Jasmine,</td> - <td align="right">80,000</td> - <td align="center">"</td> - <td align="center">"</td> - <td align="right">200,000</td> - <td align="center">"</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">11</span>Violets,</td> - <td align="right">80,000</td> - <td align="center">"</td> - <td align="center">"</td> - <td align="right">400,000</td> - <td align="center">"</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Acacia flowers,</td> - <td align="right">40,000</td> - <td align="center">"</td> - <td align="center">"</td> - <td align="right">160,000</td> - <td align="center">"</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tuberoses,</td> - <td align="right">20,000</td> - <td align="center">"</td> - <td align="center">"</td> - <td align="right">80,000</td> - <td align="center">"</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left"></td> - <td class="tdrbt">2,720,000</td> - <td align="center">kgm.,</td> - <td align="center">valued at</td> - <td class="tdrbt">3,340,000</td> - <td align="center">francs.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>From these flowers were manufactured: 500,000 kgm. of -pomades and essences, 1,000,000 litres of orange-flower water, -100,000 litres of rose water, and 1,200 kgm. of oil of roses.</p> - -<p>Besides, in more northern countries we find here and there -quite an extensive cultivation of aromatic plants; this is the -case, for instance, in England, where lavender, crisp mint, -and peppermint are planted on a large scale solely for their -perfume. In northern Germany, too, we sometimes find -caraway and sweet flag cultivated, for their peculiar odors -only, in special fields.</p> - -<p>As stated above, the place of growth of a plant exerts a -powerful influence on the quality of the odors developed in it; -this circumstance may be the reason why certain scents are -prized most highly when they are derived from some definite -regions, because the buyer is sure that the product from such -places is of superior excellence.</p> - -<p>Thus we find that English oils of lavender and peppermint -are valued more highly and bring better prices than those -from other points of production; some places even have, as -it were, acquired a monopoly of certain odors. While the -factories at Cannes produce the most perfect odors of roses, -orange flowers, jasmine, and cassie, those at Nice are famous -for the finest odors of violet, reseda (mignonette), and tuberose, -and those of Italy for the odors of bergamot and orris -root.</p> - -<p>Unfortunately there are in the United States no extensive -places of cultivation for odoriferous plants, although certain -localities are very well adapted to the growth of violets, mignonette, -roses, syringa, lavender, etc. Peppermint, however, -is grown on a large scale in some parts of New York State<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">12</span> -and in Michigan. Of course such an enterprise, in order to -be profitable, requires the intelligent co-operation of planters -and duly qualified chemists, besides well-furnished laboratories -and a considerable amount of capital; but under these conditions -the prospects of gain are good.</p> - -<p>At present the manufacturers of perfumery are almost entirely -dependent upon English and French factories for their -supply of odors. Owing to the absence of competition, the -prices for the products, excellent though they are, are high, -and become still more so when the crops are short. These -conditions would be materially altered under active competition.</p> - -<p>As indicated above, the odors used in perfumery may be -divided into three distinct groups according to their origin. -These groups are:</p> - -<p>1. Odors of vegetable origin.</p> - -<p>2. Odors of animal origin.</p> - -<p>3. Odors of artificial origin—chemical products.</p> - -<p>Before describing the preparation of true perfumes, it is -necessary to become acquainted with the several raw materials -required in their manufacture; that is to say, the simple -odorous substances, their origin, their preparation, and their -peculiar qualities. Besides these odorous raw materials, the -art of perfumery makes use of a number of chemical and mineral -products, whose quality largely influences that of the -perfume to be made. These, therefore, likewise call for an -appropriate description. Among these auxiliary substances -are alcohol, glycerin, fixed oils, and solid fats, which play an -important part not only in the preparation of the perfumes, -but also enter into the composition of many. The liquid -handkerchief perfumes always contain a large quantity of -alcohol, the scented hair oils consist largely of fixed oils, -while solid fats of animal or vegetable origin occur in the -so-called pomades. As we shall see, the actual odors, owing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">13</span> -to their extraordinary productiveness, constitute generally -only a small percentage of the perfumes; the greatest bulk is -usually either alcohol, fixed oil, or solid fat.</p> - -<p>Hence, as the last-named substances, aside from the odoriferous -materials, form the foundation of all articles of perfumery, -the manufacturer must devote particular attention -to their purity, and their qualities must be discussed in detail.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a><br /> - -<small>ODORS FROM THE VEGETABLE KINGDOM.</small></h2> - - -<p>The odors occurring in plants have their seat mostly in -peculiar receptacles called oil glands in which the aromatic -substances are stored and seem to take no further part in the -vital processes of the plant. As has been intimated, the parts -of the plant in which the aromatic substances are stored differ -greatly; but in general it may be said that in most cases the -flowers and fruits contain the odors; more rarely they may -be found in the roots, in the bark, or in the wood, and in very -few instances equally distributed throughout the whole plant. -In some cases, however, we can obtain totally different odors -from various parts of the same plant; this applies, for instance, -to the orange-tree, whose blossoms furnish a different -odor from the ripe fruits, and the latter must be distinguished -from that obtainable from the leaves. The odorous substances -occurring in the vegetable kingdom are either mobile liquids -(essential oils), or they have a thicker consistence ranging -from that of cream to that of soft cheese (balsams or gum-resins), -or they are solid (resins). Aside from the fact that -the term “essential oils” is quite incorrect, since the substances -called by that name have nothing in common with oils -except perhaps the liquid state, we are forced from a chemi<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">14</span>cal -standpoint to include among them even solid substances; -the well-known camphor, a firm and waxy-looking body, belongs -according to all its chemical properties into the same -group as the so-called essential oils. The name “essential (or -volatile) oils” is due to the fact that the volatile vegetable -aromatic substances cause a stain on paper similar to that -produced by oils and fats; but the stain made by the former -disappears spontaneously after some time, while that due to -true oils and fats persists. The disappearance of the stain -depends on the evaporation of the vegetable aromatic substances—a -quality not possessed by fats. Hence the volatile -vegetable aromatic substances, in contradistinction from non-volatile -fixed or fatty oils, have been designated as essential -or volatile or ethereal oils. Inasmuch as the latter terms are -the ordinary trade names for these substances, we are compelled -to retain them despite their incorrectness. The French -name for essential oils is <i lang="fr">essences</i>; “essence de lavande,” for -instance, is the French name for essential oil of lavender, and -not for an alcoholic solution of the oil, as might be inferred -from the usually accepted meaning of the English terms “essence -of lavender,” “essence of peppermint,” etc., which mean -solutions of these essential oils in alcohol.</p> - -<p>As the localities where the raw materials—that is, the -aromatic plants—are cultivated on a large scale naturally -constitute the places of manufacture of essential oils, we find -in southern France and in England the most extensive factories -devoted exclusively to the preparation of perfumes. In -the countries named, a favorable influence is exerted, too, by -their situation near the sea, as well as by their trade with -tropical lands from which additional aromatic plants are imported.</p> - -<p>We have stated above that the manufacture of essential -oils forms almost a monopoly in France and England; but -there is no doubt that this country (the United States) like<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">15</span>wise -possesses many localities favorable to the cultivation of -certain aromatic plants and the preparation of essential oils -from them, so that this branch of industry could be carried -on at a profit. For this reason we have in our descriptions -devoted some attention to the conditions of growth required -by such plants as might be raised here. We even find that -some advantages are derived from the hot-house cultivation -of some tropical plants.</p> - -<p>An exact knowledge of the chemical properties of a substance -is in all cases the first and fundamental condition for -its preparation; it would appear necessary, therefore, that -we should endeavor to gain complete information about the -nature of vegetable aromatic substances before we enter upon -the description of the various methods of their preparation.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">The Chemical Constitution of Vegetable Aromatic -Substances.</span></h3> - -<p>The sources of the odors derived from the vegetable kingdom -can be divided, as stated above, into so-called essential -oils, balsams, gum-resins or soft resins, and hard resins. Since -the latter bear a certain relation to the essential oils from -which they are formed through chemical combinations, we -must consider them first.</p> - -<p>The flowers, the fruits and their rinds, or even the wood -of some plants form the receptacles of essential oils; if they -are liquid they are called essential oils <i lang="fr">par excellence</i>; if they -are firm they are called camphors. Besides, there are intermediate -states between them: oil of rose is always viscid and -solidifies even at temperatures considerably above the freezing-point -of water (see under Oil of Rose).</p> - -<p>The bodies which are generally called essential oils are -usually mixtures of a hydrocarbon with an oxygenated body, -or an unchanged oil with another which has become altered -by the influence of the oxygen of the air—a condition to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">16</span> -which we shall recur later on. With reference to their elementary -composition, essential oils may be divided into two -groups:</p> - -<p>1. Non-oxygenated essential oils.</p> - -<p>2. Oxygenated essential oils.</p> - -<p>The non-oxgenated essential oils consist only of two elements—carbon -and hydrogen; the other group, as the name -indicates, contains a third element in chemical combination, -and consist of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen. Most of the -essential oils of the first group have the same chemical composition: -C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>16</sub> (10 atoms of carbon combined with 16 atoms -of hydrogen). Despite the like chemical composition, all the -essential oils display different physical qualities; they vary -in density, in refractive power, in boiling-point (often by many -degrees), and, a matter of the greatest importance for our -purposes, in their odor. We may state at once that but few -essential oils can be said to have a pleasant odor; that of -most of them is even disagreeable and narcotic to the olfactory -nerves; it is only after the oil has been extremely diluted -that the odor begins to become pleasant and to resemble -that of the plant from which the oil was derived.</p> - -<p>According to their physical qualities, essential oils may be -described as fluids of a specific narcotic odor, colorless but -very refractive, and easily inflammable. Only a few essential -oils can be produced in such a state of purity as to appear -perfectly colorless; usually they are more or less dark yellow -in color, and some even possess a characteristic tint; thus oil -of acacia is reddish-brown, oils of rose and absinth are green, -oil of chamomile is blue. But a simple experiment will show -that the color is not inseparably connected with the oil, for -certain tinted oils can be obtained perfectly colorless by being -distilled with another, less volatile oil which retains the coloring -matter.</p> - -<p>The boiling-point of essential oils is in general very high<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">17</span> -—between 160° and 288° of the centigrade thermometer (C.), -or 320° to 550° F. The fact that we smell the essential oils -in aromatic plants so distinctly despite their high boiling-point -is an evidence of their exceedingly strong influence on the -olfactory nerves.</p> - -<p>A peculiar property of essential oils, which is of great importance -in their preparation, is that of distilling over in large -quantities with steam—both ordinary and superheated—that -is, at temperatures at most only slightly exceeding 100° C. or -212° F. For this reason essential oils are usually obtained in -this way, since they are but slightly soluble in water. Still, -most of the oils dissolve in water in sufficient amount to impart -to it their characteristic odor and thus to render it often -very fragrant. Aqua Naphæ triplex (orange-flower water), -rose water, etc., are such as have been distilled over with the -essential oils, contain a small quantity of the latter in solution, -and hence have a very agreeable odor.</p> - -<p>All essential oils dissolve readily in strong alcohol, petroleum -ether, benzol, bisulphide of carbon, in liquid and solid -fats, in glycerin, etc.; we shall again recur to this important -subject under the head of the preparation of the essential -oils.</p> - -<p>If a freshly prepared essential oil is at once excluded from -the air by being placed in hermetically sealed vessels which -it completely fills, and is kept from the light, the oil will remain -unchanged for any length of time. But if an essential -oil is exposed to the air, a peculiar, chemical alteration begins, -which proceeds more rapidly and obviously if direct light acts -upon the oil at the same time. The odor becomes less intense, -the oil grows darker in color and more viscous, and also acquires -a peculiar quality: it has a strong bleaching effect -which is easily seen on the cork closing the bottle, which is -beautifully bleached. After a certain time the oil changes to -a viscid, less odorous mass, into balsam, and the latter, after<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">18</span> -the prolonged influence of the air, finally changes into a -brownish, odorless substance, into resin.</p> - -<p>These remarkable physical and chemical alterations depend -on the fact that the essential oil absorbs oxygen from -the air, which it puts into a peculiar condition in which it -exerts increased chemical activity and is termed ozonized oxygen. -One of the most marked of these effects is the uncommonly -strong bleaching power of ozonized or active oxygen. -When an essential oil that has altered so far as to contain -ozonized oxygen—which is shown by its bleaching vegetable -coloring matters such as the juice of cherries, red beets, -tincture of litmus, etc., agitated with it—is cooled, we notice -the separation from it of a usually crystalline, colorless, and -odorless body called stearopten, while the remaining liquid -part is called elæopten. Stearopten always contains oxygen, -while elæopten still consists only of carbon and hydrogen.</p> - -<p>In the formation of the stearopten we distinctly see the -beginning process of resinification, which, therefore, is nothing -but an oxidation (combination of the essential oil with oxygen). -It should, however, be stated that as to many essential -oils this is not proven by actual observation. Many of them are -not known to us as naturally existing without any stearopten. -Balsams are essential oils which have to a great extent changed -into resin, which they contain in solution, and thereby have -become more or less viscid. If the process of oxidation goes -still farther, eventually the greater portion of the essential oil -becomes oxidized, the entire mass grows firm, and then possesses -only a very faint odor which is due to the last remnants -of the unchanged essential oil.</p> - -<p>Since aromatic substances during evaporation become -mixed with air, it appears probable that they act upon the olfactory -nerves only at the moment when they become oxidized.</p> - -<p>The entire process of resinification of oil of turpentine can -be followed very clearly on the pitch pine (Pinus austriaca, or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">19</span> -other species of Pinus), just as oil of turpentine in general can -be taken as an example of an essential oil on which the peculiarities -of the non-oxygenated essential oils may be easily -studied. In many localities the pitch pine is partly deprived -of its bark when it has reached a certain age. From the trunk -exudes oil of turpentine which in the air becomes more and -more viscid by the absorption of oxygen and changes into -balsam, called turpentine. The latter is collected and distilled -with water, when the unchanged oil of turpentine passes over -with the steam, while the odorless resin (rosin or colophony) -remains behind in the stills.</p> - -<p>The above-mentioned qualities of the essential oils indicate -naturally how those used in perfumery, which are often very -costly, are to be preserved. For this purpose small strong -bottles should be chosen which are closed with well-fitting -glass stoppers, over which is applied a glass capsule ground -to fit tightly over the neck of the bottle. <em>These bottles should -always be completely filled</em> (hence small bottles should be selected), -<em>and kept tightly closed, in the dark</em>. As the action of -oxygen is retarded by low temperatures, it is advisable to -keep bottles containing essential oils in a cool cellar. But -care must be had never to pour out an essential oil in the -cellar near an open candle light. The vapors are very apt to -take fire, as they are quite inflammable.</p> - -<p>As there are a great many aromatic vegetable substances, -so there are numerous odors, or, to retain the customary -though incorrect appellation, numerous essential oils. All of -these, however, cannot be used in the art of perfumery, as -some of them do not possess a pleasant odor, as is the case, -for instance, with oil of turpentine. (We may state here, -however, that very pure oil of turpentine, distilled from certain -Coniferæ, has an agreeable, refreshing odor which at -present has found application in perfumery under the title of -forest perfume or pine-needle essence.) Besides, there are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">20</span> -numerous essential oils which, while possessing a very pleasant -odor, still cannot be used in perfumery except for very -cheap preparations, though they are employed in much larger -quantities in the manufacture of liqueurs. Such oils are: oil -of cumin, fennel, juniper, absinth, etc.</p> - -<p>As we shall return to this subject in connection with the -essential oils which are used in perfumery in general, we will -now consider at greater length the aromatic vegetable substances -which are employed for the manufacture of fragrant -odors.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a><br /> - -<small>THE AROMATIC VEGETABLE SUBSTANCES EMPLOYED -IN PERFUMERY.</small></h2> - - -<p>Every fragrant portion of a plant can be used for the -preparation of an aromatic substance, and therefore for the -manufacture of a perfume. Hence we are unable, in the following -enumeration of the aromatic vegetable substances, to -make any claim to absolute completeness; for every new scientific -expedition may acquaint us with hitherto unknown -plants from which the finest odors may be obtained. We -have said above that we have not yet even fixed in our perfumes -all the odors of the known aromatic plants, and therefore -there is still a large field open to the progressive manufacturer.</p> - -<p>In the following pages we must restrict ourselves to the -description of those aromatic vegetable substances which are -used in the laboratories of the most advanced and scientific -perfumers for the manufacture of odors. At the same time -we lay particular stress on the fact that the knowledge of -these raw materials is a matter of the greatest importance to -the manufacturer of perfumes because it enables him to ap<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">21</span>preciate -the differences, often very minute, between fine and -inferior qualities. Every manufacturer who aims at the production -of fine goods must make it the rule to use nothing but -the best raw materials.</p> - -<p>The price of the latter is apparently disproportionately -high; for all that, only the most expensive materials should -be bought, for it is the only kind that can be used. Let us -give but two instances in illustration. We find in the market, -grades of vanilla the prices of which are as one to four; the -latter is fresh and contains the aromatic substance in large -amount; the former is old, dry, and worthless, with an artificial -glossy surface and little odor. The differences in the -price are still greater in an aromatic substance of animal origin, -musk, the cheapest grades of which are altogether artificial -and perfumed with a mere trace of genuine musk.</p> - -<p>Of course, the same remark applies to the raw materials -of animal origin and to the chemical products, all of which -should be of the greatest purity obtainable.</p> - -<p>The aromatic substances at present employed in perfumery -for the extraction of odors are the following.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Allspice.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Pimenta; <i>French</i>—Piment; <i>German</i>—Piment; Nelkenpfeffer.</small></h3> - -<p>This spice consists of the fruit berries, at first green, later -black, of the Eugenia Pimenta, indigenous to Central America -and the Antilles. It is chiefly used in the manufacture of -liqueurs, less in perfumery, though it may be employed as an -addition to certain strong odors, particularly that of oil of -bay; it serves very nicely for scenting cheap soap.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Anise.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Pimpinella Anisum; <i>French</i>—Anis; <i>German</i>—Anis.</small></h3> - -<p>This well-known plant, which is cultivated in many localities -on a large scale, belongs to the Order of Umbelliferæ.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">22</span> -The seeds contain about three per cent of a very aromatic essential -oil which finds application in the manufacture of soap and -in cheap perfumery; it is chiefly used as a flavoring for liqueurs. -Good anise must have a light green color, an agreeable sweetish -odor, and a sharp taste. In order to increase the weight, -anise is occasionally moistened with water; such seeds look -swollen, are apt to become slimy, and then furnish a less fragrant -oil. Anise is not to be confounded with star-anise, -which will be mentioned hereafter.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Balm.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Melissa officinalis; <i>French</i>—Melisse; <i>German</i>—Melissenkraut.</small></h3> - -<p>Melissa officinalis, an herbaceous plant with large, beautiful -flowers, which grows wild in our woods, contains a very sweet-smelling -oil in small quantities. This can be extracted by -distillation from the fresh herb, and furnishes very fine perfumes.</p> - -<p>Oil of Melissa of the market is, however, usually an East -Indian oil, derived from Andropogon citratus. See under -Citronella.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bay (Sweet Bay).</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Laurus nobilis; <i>French</i>—Laurier; <i>German</i>—Lorbeerfrüchte.</small></h3> - -<p>The fruits of the bay-tree contain much essential oil which -is used less in the manufacture of perfumery than for scenting -soap. Venice is the most important point of export. See -the next article.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bay (West Indian).</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Myrcia acris; <i>French</i>—(Huile de) Bay; <i>German</i>—Bay -(-Oel).</small></h3> - -<p>The essential oil obtained from the leaves of this tree, a -native of the West Indies, possesses a very aromatic, refresh<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">23</span>ing -odor somewhat resembling that of allspice. It is known -in the market as bay oil or oil of bay. During the last decade -or so its use has largely extended, and, while formerly almost -unknown on the continent of Europe, has become an important -article for the perfumer. An alcoholic distillate, prepared -by distilling the fresh leaves with the crude spirit from which -rum is otherwise obtained, is known as bay-rum, and is used -as a pleasant and refreshing wash for the skin. Bay-rum may -also be made by dissolving the oil, together with certain other -ingredients, in alcohol.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Benzoin.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Benzoinum; <i>French</i>—Benjoin; <i>German</i>—Benzoëharz.</small></h3> - -<p>This gum-resin, which possesses a pleasant vanilla-like -odor, comes from a tree belonging to the Order of Styracaceæ, -the Styrax Benzoin, and probably another species of -Styrax, indigenous to tropical Asia, especially Siam and Sumatra. -The collection of benzoin is very similar to that of pine -resin; the bark of the tree is cut open, the exuding juice is -allowed to harden on the trunk, and is thus brought into commerce. -Benzoin differs according to its origin, the age of the -tree, etc., and in commerce a number of sorts (Siam, Penang, -Palembang, and Sumatra) are distinguished. As a rule, benzoin -comes in lumps ranging in size to that of a child’s head. -They are of a light gray color and inclose white, almond-shaped -pieces. The finest quality, known as Siam benzoin after its -source, usually is in small pieces (Siam benzoin in tears) which -are translucent, light yellow to brown externally, but milky -white on fracture, and have a strong vanilla odor. Less fine but -still very good is Siam benzoin in lumps, consisting of large -reddish-brown pieces inclosing white particles. All other -kinds mentioned above come from the island of Sumatra, in -lumps the size of a fist. What was formerly known as Calcutta -benzoin formed large friable pieces of a dirty reddish-gray<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">24</span> -color. Siam as well as Penang benzoin often contains, besides -benzoic acid, also cinnamic acid; it is not known why it is not -a regular constituent. The worst quality is sold as “benzoin -sorts,” consisting of brownish pieces without white spots; they -are often mixed with splinters of wood, bast fibres, and fragments -of leaves, and can be used only for cheap perfumes.</p> - -<p>Good benzoin, besides the qualities named, must have a -sweetish and burning sharp taste, it should be very friable, -and when heated in a porcelain capsule should emit vapors -(benzoic acid) of an acrid taste and a pronounced aromatic -odor; it should dissolve completely in strong alcohol. In -perfumery, benzoin serves for the preparation of many odors, -washes, and the manufacture of benzoic acid. The latter will -be further discussed under the head of aromatic substances -obtained by means of chemistry.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bergamot.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Citrus Bergamia; <i>French</i>—Bergamote; <i>German</i>—Bergamottefrüchte.</small></h3> - -<p>The bergamot is the fruit of a tree belonging to the Order -of Aurantiaceæ, which is cultivated in Calabria. The tree is -unknown in a wild state. The golden-yellow or greenish-yellow -fruits, resembling a lemon in shape, have a bitter and -at the same time acid pulp; the thin rind contains a very fragrant -oil which is used largely in the manufacture of fine perfumery -and soaps, and is exported chiefly from Messina and -Palermo.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bitter Almonds.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Amygdala amara; <i>French</i>—Amandes amères; <i>German</i>—Bittere -Mandeln.</small></h3> - -<p>The well-known fruits of the bitter almond-tree (Amygdalus -communis, var. amara). There are no definite botanical<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">25</span> -differences between the sweet and the bitter almond-tree. -The only distinct difference is the character of the respective -fruits. The aromatic substance obtained from bitter almonds -is not present fully formed in the fruits, but results from the -chemical transformation of the amygdalin they contain; the -latter body is absent in sweet almonds.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Cajuput Leaves.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Folia Cajuputi.</small></h3> - -<p>The leaves of Melaleuca Cajuputi, a tree found in the Indian -and Malay Archipelago, which have an aromatic odor -resembling that of cardamoms. In the Orient the leaves are -used as incense and for the extraction of the oil they contain.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Camphor Wood.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Lignum Camphoræ; <i>French</i>—Bois de camphre; -<i>German</i>—Campherholz.</small></h3> - -<p>The wood of the Camphor-tree, native of China and Japan, -is exceedingly rich in essential oil, the firm, white, and strong-scented -camphor. The latter is usually prepared from the -wood at the home of the tree, especially in Formosa and Japan, -so that the wood hardly forms an article of commerce and is -here enumerated only for completeness’ sake. In China and -in Japan, however, it is largely used for the manufacture of -cloth-chests, trunks and wardrobes, as these are never invaded -by insects.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Caraway Seed.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Semen Carvi; <i>French</i>—Carvi; <i>German</i>—Kümmelsamen.</small></h3> - -<p>This plant, Carum Carvi, which is largely cultivated in -Germany, contains in its seeds from four to seven per cent of -essential oil which is extracted by distillation. Genuine caraway -seed is brownish-yellow, pointed at both ends, quite gla<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">26</span>brous -on examination with a lens, and marked with five longitudinal -ribs. Caraway is occasionally confounded with -cumin seed, from Cuminum Cyminum, which is easily recognized -with a lens: the seeds of the latter plant have fourteen -longitudinal ribs and are hairy. The use of caraway in perfumery -is limited to ordinary goods, but in the manufacture -of liqueurs it is largely employed.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Cascarilla Bark.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Cortex Cascarillæ; <i>French</i>—Cascarille; <i>German</i>—Cascarillarinde.</small></h3> - -<p>This is the bark of a West Indian tree, Croton Eluteria, -belonging to the Order of Euphorbiaceæ, native of the Bahamas. -It occurs in commerce in the shape of pieces the length -and thickness of a finger; externally it is white and fissured, -internally of a brown color and resinous. Good qualities -should be free from dust and fractured pieces (sifted cascarilla), -of a warm aromatic taste, and a very agreeable odor -which becomes more marked on being heated. Another -variety of cascarilla derived from South Africa, Cascarilla -gratissima, has very fragrant leaves which can be used immediately -as incense, just as cascarilla in general is employed in -perfumery chiefly for fumigating powders and waters.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Cassie.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Acacia farnesiana; <i>French</i>—Cassie; <i>German</i>—Acacie.</small></h3> - -<p>The flowers of Acacia farnesiana (Willd.), one of the true -acacias, native of the East Indies, which flourishes farther -north than the other varieties, cultivated largely in southern -France for the delightful odor which resembles that of violets -but is more intense. The flowers are collected and made to -yield their odorous principle by one of the methods to be described -hereafter. The plant which is generally but falsely<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">27</span> -called Acacia in this country, viz., Robinia pseudoacacia, likewise -bears very fragrant flowers which undoubtedly can be -made to yield a perfume by some one of the usual methods; -but so far we know of no perfume into which the odor of -Robinia flowers enters. Moreover, it is not alone the flowers -of Acacia farnesiana which may be utilized for the preparation -of the cassie perfume; the black currant, Ribes niger, contains -in its flowers an odor closely resembling the former; this is -actually used in the preparation of an oil sold under the name -of “oil of cassie.” The latter plant flourishes in our northern -States and would answer as a substitute for Acacia farnesiana, -which cannot stand our northern winters.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Cedar Wood.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Lignum Cedri; <i>French</i>—Bois de cèdre; <i>German</i>—Cedernholz.</small></h3> - -<p>The wood met with in commerce is derived from the Virginian -juniper tree, Juniperus virginiana, which is used in -large quantities for inclosing lead pencils. The chips, the -offal from this manufacture, can be employed with advantage -for the extraction of the essential oil contained therein. Long -uniform shavings of this wood are also used for fumigation, -and the sawdust for cheap sachet powders. Cedar wood is -reddish-brown, fragrant, very soft, and splits easily. In the -perfumery industry it usually passes under the name of the -“cedar of Lebanon,” although the wood from the last-mentioned -tree (Cedrus libanotica) has quite a different agreeable -odor, is very firm, reddish-brown, and of a very bitter taste—qualities -by which it is readily distinguished from the other.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Cinnamon.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Cinnamomum; <i>French</i>—Canelle; <i>German</i>—Zimmtrinde.</small></h3> - -<p>Cinnamon consists of the bark of the young twigs of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">28</span> -cinnamon-tree, Cinnamomum zeylanicum, indigenous to Ceylon. -Good cinnamon consists of thin, tubular, rolled pieces -of bark which are smooth, light brown (darker on fracture), of -a pronounced characteristic odor, and a burning and at the -same time sweet taste. The most valuable in commerce is -that from Ceylon; the thicker bark is less fine.</p> - -<p>Chinese cinnamon or cassia (French, Cassie; German, Zimmtcassia) -consists of the bark of the cassia-tree, an undetermined -species of Cinnamomum indigenous to Southern China; -this is grayish-brown and has the general properties of true -cinnamon, but it as well as the oil extracted from it has a less -fine odor than cinnamon or oil of cinnamon. A very fine -kind of Cinnamon has for a number of years past appeared -on the market under the name of Saigon cinnamon. It is -very rich in oil, and is exported from Cochin-China. Besides -the true oils of cinnamon and cassia, other essential oils are -met with in commerce under the names of oil of cinnamon -flowers and oil of cinnamon leaves, but their odor is not so -fine as that of the former. The so-called cinnamon flowers -are the unripe fruits of various cinnamon laurels, collected -after the fall of the blossoms. They form brownish cones -the length of the nail of the little finger, and furnish an essential -oil whose odor resembles that of cinnamon.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Citron.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Fructus Citri; <i>French</i>—Citron; <i>German</i>—Citronenfrüchte.</small></h3> - -<p>The fruit of a tree, Citrus medica, indigenous to northern -India, but largely cultivated in the countries situated around -the Mediterranean and in other countries. It is cultivated -both for the pleasant acid juice of the fruit and for their fragrant -rinds. Only the latter are of value for our purposes. -It occurs in European commerce under the name of Citronat -or citron peel. Good commercial citron peel should be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">29</span> -in quarters and as fresh as possible, which is shown by its softness, -the yellow color, and the strong odor. Old peel looks -shrunken and brownish and has but little pleasant odor.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Citron Flowers.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Flores Citri; <i>French</i>—Fleurs de citron; <i>German</i>—Citronenblüthen.</small></h3> - -<p>The flowers of the citron-tree (Citrus medica) are white, -fragrant, and contain a very aromatic essential oil; but as the -oil is always extracted from the fresh flowers, the latter do -not form an article of commerce.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Cherrylaurel Leaves.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Folia Laurocerasi; <i>French</i>—Laurier-cérise; <i>German</i>—Kirschlorbeerblätter.</small></h3> - -<p>The leaves of this tree (Prunus Laurocerasus), which is -largely cultivated for officinal purposes, furnish an odorous -substance completely identical with that contained in bitter -almonds, or, rather, formed in them under certain conditions. -As the extraction of the odorous substance from bitter almonds -is much cheaper, cherry-laurel is but rarely used.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Citronella.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Andropogon Nardus; <i>French</i>—Citronelle; <i>German</i>—Citronella.</small></h3> - -<p>This grass, which, like the oil prepared from it, is called -citronella, is a native of northern India, and is largely cultivated -in Ceylon, where large quantities are worked for the -oil; for this reason the grass itself is seldom met with in commerce. -Its odor is somewhat similar to that of the Indian -lemon grass, that of verbena, and that of several other aromatic -plants, in place of which citronella is frequently employed.</p> - -<p>Much confusion exists in much of the current literature<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">30</span> -regarding the source and synonymy of the Indian grass oils -and allied products. The following list contains the most -important ones:</p> - -<p>1. <i>Andropogon citratus</i> DC.—Lemon Grass. The oil is -known as Lemon Grass Oil, Indian Verbena Oil or Indian -Melissa Oil, or simply Oil of Verbena or Oil of Melissa.</p> - -<p>2. <i>Andropogon laniger</i> Desf.—This is the Juncus odoratus -or Herba Schoenanthi of older pharmacy. No oil is prepared -from this.</p> - -<p>3. <i>Andropogon muricatus</i> Retz.—Cuscus or Vetiver. Source -of Oil of Vetiver.</p> - -<p>4. <i>Andropogon nardus</i> L.—Citronella. Source of Oil of -Citronella.</p> - -<p>5. <i>Andropogon Schoenanthus</i> L.—Ginger Grass. The oil is -known as Oil of Ginger Grass, Oil of Geranium Grass, Oil of -Indian Geranium or simply Oil of Geranium, also Oil of Rose -Geranium [“Rose” is here a corruption of the Hindostanee -name of the plant, viz., Rusa], Oil of Rusa Grass, Oil of -Rusa, Oil of Palmarosa.—The two terms “Oil of Geranium” -and “Oil of Rose Geranium” should be abandoned for this -oil, to avoid confusion with the “Oil of (Rose) Geranium” -obtained from Pelargonium. See under “Geranium.”</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Clove.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Caryophylli; <i>French</i>—Clous de girofle; <i>German</i>—Nelkengewürz.</small></h3> - -<p>This well-known spice comes from a tree, Caryophyllus -aromaticus, native of the Moluccas, and largely cultivated at -Zanzibar, Pemba, and elsewhere. It consists of the closed -buds. The main essential of good quality is the greatest possible -freshness, which may be recognized by the cloves being -full, heavy, reddish-brown, and of a fatty aspect, and they -must contain so much essential oil (about 18 per cent) that -when crushed between the fingers the latter should be stained<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">31</span> -yellowish-brown. Before buying, this test should always be -made, and attention paid to the fact whether the whitish dust -is present in the wrinkles about the head. We have found in -commerce cloves from which the essential oil had been fraudulently -extracted with alcohol and hence were worthless; such -cloves may be recognized by the faint odor and taste, but especially -by the absence of the whitish dust.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Cucumber.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Cucumis sativus; <i>French</i>—Concombre; <i>German</i>—Gurke.</small></h3> - -<p>The well-known fruits of this kitchen-garden plant, though -not strictly sweet-scented, possess a peculiar refreshing odor -which has found application in perfumery. Certain products -belonging under this head require the odor of cucumber, and -therefore this plant is to be included among the aromatic -plants in a wider sense.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Culilaban Bark.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Cortex Culilavan; <i>French</i>—Ecorce culilaban; <i>German</i>—Kulilabanrinde.</small></h3> - -<p>The bark of Cinnamomum Culilavan Nees, a plant indigenous -to the Molucca islands, used to occur in commerce in -the shape of long, flat pieces of a yellowish-brown color, with -an odor like a mixture of cinnamon, sassafras, and clove oils. -It is rarely met with now.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Dill.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Semen Anethi; <i>French</i>—Aneth; <i>German</i>—Dillsamen.</small></h3> - -<p>This plant, Anethum graveolens, which is indigenous to -the Mediterranean region and southern Russia, contains in -all its parts, particularly in the seeds, an oil of a peculiar -odor, which is used as a perfume for soap, also in cheap perfumery, -and especially as a flavoring for liqueurs.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">32</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Elder Flowers.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Flores Sambuci; <i>French</i>—Sureau; <i>German</i>—Hollunderblüthen.</small></h3> - -<p>This bush, Sambucus niger, which grows wild in Europe, -bears umbellar flowers which are officinal, but contain besides -a pleasant odor which can be extracted from them. -The odor of the flowers deteriorates on drying, hence in perfumery -only the fresh flowers should be used. The American -elder (Sambucus canadensis) could easily be used in place of it.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Fennel (Seed and Herb).</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Fœniculum; <i>French</i>—Fenouil; <i>German</i>—Fenchel.</small></h3> - -<p>This plant, Fœniculum vulgare, Order Umbelliferæ, is -largely cultivated in Europe. It contains an essential oil in -all its parts, but especially in the seeds. The plant is rarely -used in perfumery, but more frequently in the manufacture -of liqueurs. The herb, dried and comminuted, enters into the -composition of some cheap sachets.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Frangipanni</span> <small>(see Plumeria)</small>.</h3> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Geranium</span>.<br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Pelargonium roseum; <i>French</i>—Géranium; <i>German</i>—Geranium.</small></h3> - -<p>This plant, originally indigenous in South Africa, contains -in its leaves an essential oil whose odor closely resembles that -of roses. At present it is cultivated on a large scale in many -parts of France and in Turkey, solely for the purposes of perfumery. -This plant would grow freely in our Southern and -Middle States, and could be cultivated with advantage for the -extraction of its highly valued perfume.</p> - -<p>The terms “Oil of Geranium” and “Oil of Rose Geranium” -ought to be restricted in commerce to the oil obtained<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">33</span> -from true geranium (Pelargonium). Unfortunately, they are -yet very commonly applied to an East Indian oil obtained -from a species of Andropogon (see under Citronella).</p> - - -<h3>Hedyosmum Flowers.</h3> - -<p>On the Antilles there are a number of bushes belonging -to the Genus Hedyosmum, Order Chloranthaceæ, whose -flowers possess a magnificent, truly intoxicating odor. Thus -far these odors seem to have been accessible only to English -perfumers. The perfumes sold under this name by Continental -manufacturers are merely combinations of different -odors.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Heliotrope.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Heliotropium peruvianum; <i>French</i>—Héliotrope; -<i>German</i>—Heliotropenblüthen.</small></h3> - -<p>The flowers of this plant, which flourishes well in all temperate -or tropic countries, possess a very pleasant odor, about -the preparation of which we shall have more to say hereafter. -In Europe only French perfumers have manufactured it; according -to the author’s experiments, however, its extraction -presents no more difficulty than that of any other plant.</p> - -<p>A synthetic, chemical product, known as piperonal, related -to vanillin and cumarin, possesses the odor of the heliotrope -in a most remarkable degree. It is therefore much used to -imitate the latter. In commerce it is known as heliotropin.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Honeysuckle.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Flores Loniceræ; <i>French</i>—Chèvre-feuille; <i>German</i>—- Geisblattblüthen.</small></h3> - -<p>This well-known climbing plant, Lonicera Caprifolium, -found in many of our garden bowers, contains an exceedingly -fragrant oil in its numerous flowers, from which the author has -prepared it. [Some of the American species of honeysuckle<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">34</span> -would, no doubt, likewise yield an essential oil.] The oil sold -in commerce under this name is not obtained from these -flowers, but is an imitation of the odor conventionally accepted -for it. The true oil of honeysuckle, first prepared by -the author, far surpasses these imitations in fragrance.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Hyssop.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Hyssopus officinalis; <i>French</i>—Hyssope; <i>German</i>—Ysopkraut.</small></h3> - -<p>Hyssop possesses a strong odor, a very bitter taste, and is -used only for cheap perfumery, but more frequently in the -manufacture of liqueurs.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Jasmine.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Jasminum odoratissimum; <i>French</i>—Jasmin; <i>German</i>—Jasminblüthen.</small></h3> - -<p>True jasmine—not to be confounded with German jasmine -(Philadelphus coronarius, known here as the mock orange, or -the Syringa of cultivation) which is likewise employed in perfumery—flourishes -particularly in the coast lands of the Mediterranean, -where it is cultivated as a dwarf tree. The odor -obtained from the flowers is one of the finest and most expensive -in existence, and for this reason it would be well worth -trying the cultivation in our southern States. At present -nearly all the true jasmine perfume (pomade, extract, etc.) -comes from France.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Lavender.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Lavandula vera; <i>French</i>—Lavande; <i>German</i>—Lavendel.</small></h3> - -<p>True lavender, which belongs to the Order of Labiatæ -that contains many aromatic plants, is one of the most ancient -in our art; it was early used in Greece for purposes of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">35</span> -perfumery. Although true lavender flourishes throughout -central Europe, its cultivation on a large scale is carried on -chiefly in England, and the oil of lavender from English factories -is most highly prized. Much lavender is also grown in -France, but the product, though very fine, has a much lower -value.</p> - -<p>True lavender is to be distinguished from spike-lavender -(French, aspic; German, Spik-Lavendel), whose odor is similar -to that of true lavender, but furnishes a much less aromatic -perfume. The cultivation of lavender in this country (U. S.) -might give good results.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Lemon.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Citrus Limonum; <i>French</i>—Limon; <i>German</i>—Limonenfrüchte.</small></h3> - -<p>The fruits of the South European lemon-tree, not to be -confounded with citrons, resemble the latter in appearance, -but they are smaller, have a more acid taste and a thinner -rind. The peel contains an essential oil which is very similar -in odor to that of the citron. Hence the oils of lemon, limetta -(from Citrus Limetta), and citron are used for the same purposes; -but when the three oils are immediately compared, an -experienced olfactory organ perceives a marked difference -between them.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Lemon Grass.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Andropogon citrates; <i>French</i>—Schoenanthe; <i>German</i>—Citronengrass.</small></h3> - -<p>This grass, which bears a close resemblance to citronella, -is largely cultivated, especially in India and Ceylon, for the -essential oil it contains. The odor of the grass is similar to -that of verbena, so that its oil is often used as an adulterant -or rather as a substitute for the former. (Compare the article -on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">36</span> “Citronella.”)</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Lilac.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Flores Syringæ; <i>French</i>—Lilas; <i>German</i>—Fliederblüthen.</small></h3> - -<p>This plant, Syringa vulgaris, a native of Persia but fully -acclimated in Europe and in this country, has very fragrant -flowers, the odor of which can be obtained only from the -fresh blossoms.</p> - -<p>A recently discovered liquid principle, now known as terpineol -(C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>17</sub>OH), which exists in many essential oils, and in -these, in the portion boiling between 420° and 424° F., possesses -the lilac odor in a most pronounced degree, and to its presence -in the lilac flowers the peculiar odor of the latter is, no -doubt, due. It is obtainable in the market under the name -lilacine.</p> - -<p>The Syringa of the florists is not the true lilac, but the -same as the Mock Orange, viz., Philadelphus coronarius.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Lily.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Lilium candidum; <i>French</i>—Lis; <i>German</i>—Lilienblüthen.</small></h3> - -<p>The remarks made under the head of Wallflower apply -equally to the blossoms of the white garden lily: strange to -say, they are not used in perfumery, and all the so-called odors -of lily are mixtures of several aromatic substances. The -author has succeeded in separating from the flowers, by means -of petroleum ether, the delightful odor present in large amount -in the blossoms of this plant, and has employed it in the manufacture -of magnificent perfumes.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Mace.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Macis; <i>French</i>—Macis; <i>German</i>—Muscatblüthe.</small></h3> - -<p>This substance is the dried arillus covering the fruits of -Myristica fragrans, the so-called nutmegs. The tree bearing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">37</span> -them is indigenous to a group of islands in the Indian Archipelago -and is cultivated especially on the Molucca islands. -Although mace is in such close relation with nutmeg, yet, -strange to say, the aromatic substance differs decidedly from -that of the nut. Mace of good quality forms pieces of orange-yellow -color; they are fleshy, usually slit open on one side, -have a strong odor, tear with difficulty, and are so oily that -when crushed they stain the fingers brownish-yellow. Mace -is largely used in the preparation of sachets and particularly -for scenting soap. In England, soap scented with mace is -well liked.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Magnolia.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Magnolia grandiflora; <i>French</i>—Magnolia; <i>German</i>—Magnoliablüthen.</small></h3> - -<p>The magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), indigenous to the -warmer parts of South, Central, and North America, bears -large white flowers having a delightful odor which can be extracted -by means of petroleum ether. In the same way, truly -intoxicating perfumes may be obtained from other varieties of -magnolia. In our climate these plants flourish only in conservatories, -and in their home no steps have yet been taken -to utilize these natural treasures in a proper way; hence -European manufacturers invariably produce the perfume -called magnolia by combination of different odors.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Marjoram.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Herba majoranæ; <i>French</i>—Marjolaine; <i>German</i>—Majorankraut.</small></h3> - -<p>This plant, Origanum Majorana (vulgare), frequently cultivated -in kitchen gardens, possesses in all its parts a strong -odor due to an essential oil. The latter, which is quite expensive, -is but little used, and probably only for culinary purposes.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">38</span></p> - -<p>“Oil of Origanum” in English-speaking countries is intended -to mean Oil of Thyme (from Thymus vulgaris), and -never means Oil of Marjoram.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Meadow Sweet.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Spiræa ulmaria; <i>French</i>—Reine des prés; <i>German</i>—Spierstaude.</small></h3> - -<p>This plant is frequent in Europe on damp meadows, and -contains an aromatic substance closely allied to oil of wintergreen, -which occurs also in the Canadian variety.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Mint.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Mentha; <i>French</i>—Menthe; <i>German</i>—Minze.</small></h3> - -<p>The varieties of mint claiming our attention are the following: -<i>Mentha piperita</i>, Peppermint (French: Menthe poivrée; -German: Pfefferminze).—<i>Mentha viridis</i>, Spearmint (French: -Menthe verte; German: Grüne Minze).—<i>Mentha crispa</i>, Crisp -Mint (French: Menthe crépue [or frisée]; German: Krause -Minze).</p> - -<p>All of the mints have a pleasant odor; besides the plants -named above, we may mention Mentha aquatica, whose odor -faintly but distinctly recalls that of musk. Like lavender, -Mentha crispa and M. piperita are cultivated particularly in -England, and the English oils are the most superior. Mentha -piperita is also largely cultivated in the United States. -Mentha viridis and its oil are almost exclusively confined to -this country.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Musk-Seed.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Semen Abelmoschi; <i>French</i>—Grains d’ambrette; -<i>German</i>—Bisamkörner.</small></h3> - -<p>The tree, Hibiscus Abelmoschus, indigenous to Africa and -India, bears fruit capsules containing reddish-gray seeds with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">39</span> -grooved surface, so-called musk-seeds. They have an odor -resembling musk, but much weaker, though it becomes more -pronounced when the seeds are bruised. Besides this species -of Hibiscus, other plants belonging to the same order are aromatic -and are also used in perfumery.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Myrrh.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Myrrha; <i>French</i>—Myrrhe; <i>German</i>—Myrrhe.</small></h3> - -<p>The gum-resin which we call myrrh has long been known -in the East, where it was celebrated as one of the finest perfumes, -along with spikenard and frankincense. The tree, -Balsamodendron Myrrha (or Commiphora Myrrha Engler) is -indigenous to the countries bordering the Red Sea to about -22° N. Lat.; the gum exudes partly spontaneously from the -trunk. In European commerce myrrh appears in different -sorts; that called myrrha electa or myrrha in lacrimis is the -most precious; it forms tears of a golden yellow to brown -color, traversed by white veins; they have a pleasant smell. -That called myrrha naturalis is inferior, but on being heated -develops the characteristic aroma. In commerce a product -is sometimes offered by the name of myrrh which is nothing -but cherry-tree gum scented with genuine myrrh.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Myrtle Leaves.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Myrtus communis; <i>French</i>—Myrte; <i>German</i>—Myrtenblätter.</small></h3> - -<p>The leaves of this Southern European plant diffuse a pleasant -odor; the oil to which it is due can be extracted by distillation; -yet the perfumes usually called myrtle are not obtained -from the plant, but are made by the combination of -several aromatic substances. The aromatic water known, -especially in France, as “eau d’anges” is obtained by the distillation -of myrtle leaves with water.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">40</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Narcissus.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Narcissus poeticus; <i>French</i>—Narcisse; <i>German</i>—Narcissenblüthen.</small></h3> - -<p>The blossoms of this favorite garden plant, which is cultivated -on a large scale near Nice, have a pleasant, almost narcotic -odor which may be extracted in various ways; though -the greatest part of the so-called narcissus perfumes are made -artificially.</p> - -<p>Another species of Narcissus (Narcissus Jonquilla) is frequently -cultivated in warm countries for its pleasant scent; -but the perfumes generally found in the market under the -name of Extract, etc., of Jonquil are artificial compounds.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Nutmeg.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Myristica; <i>French</i>—Muscade; <i>German</i>—Muscatnüsse.</small></h3> - -<p>These nuts are almost spherical in shape, the size of a -small walnut, of a grayish-brown color externally, and usually -coated with a faint whitish-gray covering (which is lime). Internally -they are reddish-brown, with white marbled spots. -Good fresh nutmegs should be dense, heavy, and so oily that -when pierced with a needle a drop of oil should follow the -withdrawal of the latter. Nuts which are hollow, wormy, and -of a faint odor cannot be used in perfumery. Oil of nutmeg -is used extensively in perfumery, but is rarely employed pure, -more commonly in combination with other strong odors.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Olibanum.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Olibanum; <i>French</i>—Encens; <i>German</i>—Weihrauch.</small></h3> - -<p>This gum-resin, employed even by the ancient civilized -nations of Asia, especially as incense for religious purposes, -comes from East African trees, various species of Boswellia. -Fine olibanum appears in light yellow tears, very transparent<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">41</span> -and hard, whose pleasant though faint odor becomes particularly -marked when it is thrown on hot coals. In perfumery -olibanum is used almost exclusively for pastils, fumigating -powders, etc. Pulverulent olibanum constitutes an inferior -quality and is often adulterated with pine resin.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Opopanax.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Resina Opopanax.</small></h3> - -<p>The root stock of an umbelliferous plant, indigenous in -Syria, now recognized at Balsamodendron Kafal, furnishes a -yellow milky sap containing an aromatic resin with an odor -resembling that of gum ammoniacum. At least the opopanax -now obtainable in the market is derived from this source. -True opopanax resin, such as used to reach the market -formerly, is now unobtainable, and its true source is yet -unknown. Opopanax oil is used in perfumery to some -extent.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Orange Flowers.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Flores Aurantii; <i>French</i>—Fleurs d’oranges; <i>German</i>—Orangenblüthen.</small></h3> - -<p>The flowers of the bitter orange tree (Citrus vulgaris), as -well as those of the sweet (Citrus Aurantium), contain very -fragrant essential oils, which differ in flavor and value according -to their source and mode of preparation. See below, -under Oil of Orange. The leaves, too, contain a peculiar oil -used in perfumery.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Orange Peel.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Cortex Aurantii; <i>French</i>—Ecorce d’oranges; <i>German</i>—Orangenschalen.</small></h3> - -<p>The very oily rinds of the orange occur in commerce in a -dried form; such peels, however, can be used only in the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">42</span> -manufacture of liqueurs; in perfumery nothing but the oil from -the fresh rinds is employed, and this is generally obtained by -pressure.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Origanum.</span></h3> - -<p>See Marjoram, and Thyme.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Orris Root.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Radix Iridis florentinæ; <i>French</i>—Iris; <i>German</i>—Veilchenwurzel.</small></h3> - -<p>The Florentine sword-lily, Iris florentina, which often -grows wild in Italy but is largely cultivated, has a creeping -root-stock covered with a brown bark which, however, is peeled -from the fresh root. Orris root occurs in commerce in whitish -pieces which are sometimes forked; the surface is knotty, and -the size may reach the thickness of a thumb and the length -of a finger. When fresh, the roots have a disagreeable sharp -odor, but on drying they attain an odor which may be said -to resemble that of the violet; but on comparing the two -odors immediately, a considerable difference is perceptible -even to the untrained olfactory sense. Orris root should be -as fresh as possible; this may be recognized by its toughness, -the great weight, and the white, not yellow color on fracture. -It is very frequently used for sachets and for fixing other -odors.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Palm Oil.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Oleum Palmæ; <i>French</i>—Huile de Palme; <i>German</i>—Palmöl.</small></h3> - -<p>Palm oil, a fixed oil derived from Elais guineensis, possesses -a peculiar odor faintly recalling that of violets which is -easily extracted. Although not used thus far in perfumery, -personal experiments have convinced the author that the odor -can be employed in the manufacture of cheap perfumes.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">43</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Patchouly.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Pogostemon Patchouly; <i>French</i>—Patchouly; <i>German</i>—Patschulikraut.</small></h3> - -<p>This herb, indigenous to the East Indies and China, in -appearance somewhat resembling our garden sage, is used in -the countries named as one of the most common perfumes; -many East Indian and Chinese goods (such as Cashmere -shawls, India ink, etc.) owe their peculiar odor to the patchouly -herb which is very productive. In this respect it can be -compared only with the nutmeg, but exceeds even this in intensity. -This herb is not known very long in Europe, but at -present it is imported in large quantities from India; in commerce -it occurs in small bundles consisting of stems and leaves -(collected before flowering).</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Peru Balsam.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Balsamum peruvianum; <i>French</i>—Beaume du Pérou; -<i>German</i>—Perubalsam.</small></h3> - -<p>This balsam, imported from Central America (San Salvador), -is derived from Toluifera Pereiræ; incisions are made -in the bark and trunk of the tree, from which the balsam -exudes. Peru balsam is of a syrupy consistence, thick and -viscid, brownish-red in thin, blackish-brown in thick layers. -Its taste is pungent, sharp, and bitter, afterward acrid; its -odor is somewhat smoky, but agreeable and balsamic. Peru -balsam is often sophisticated with fixed oil; this can be -readily detected by agitation with alcohol, by which the oil -is separated. But if castor oil is the adulterant, this test is -not applicable, as castor oil dissolves with equal facility in -alcohol.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">44</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Pine-apple.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Bromelia Ananas; <i>French</i>—Ananas; <i>German</i>—Ananas.</small></h3> - -<p>The fruits of this plant, originally derived from the East -Indies, have a well-known narcotic odor which can be extracted -from them.</p> - -<p>In commerce we often meet with a chemical product -called pine-apple ether which will be described at greater length -under the head of chemical products used in perfumery. -Pine-apple ether has an odor usually considered to be like that -of the fruit, but when the two substances are immediately -compared a great difference will be detected. Pine-apple ether -finds quite extensive application in confectionery for the preparation -of lemonades, punch, ices, etc. If the true pine-apple -odor is to be prepared from the fruits, care must be had to -use ripe fruits; the unripe or overripe fruits possess a less -delicate aroma.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Pink.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Dianthus Caryophyllus; <i>French</i>—Œillet; <i>German</i>—Nelkenblüthen.</small></h3> - -<p>The odor of this favorite garden plant can be easily extracted -from the flowers by means of petroleum ether; but -the genuine odor of pink is hardly ever met with in perfumery; -the preparations sold under this name being usually artificial -mixtures of other odors.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Plumeria.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Plumeria; <i>French</i>—Plumeria; <i>German</i>—Plumeriablüthen.</small></h3> - -<p>All the Plumerias, indigenous to the Antilles, contain very -fragrant odors in their flowers. To the best of our knowledge, -these odors have not yet been extracted from the flowers, and -all the perfumes sold under this name (sometimes also called -Frangipanni) are merely combinations of different odors.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">45</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Reseda (Mignonette).</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Reseda odorata; <i>French</i>—Mignonette; <i>German</i>—Reseda.</small></h3> - -<p>This herbaceous plant, probably indigenous to northern -Africa, but long domesticated in Europe and cultivated in -gardens, is well known for its refreshing odor. The latter, -however, is very difficult to extract and is yielded only to the -method of absorption (enfleurage). The true odor of reseda, -owing to the mode of its preparation, is very expensive, and -for this reason nearly all perfumes sold under this name are -produced from other aromatic substances.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Rhodium.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Lignum Rhodii; <i>French</i>—Bois de rose; <i>German</i>—Rosenholz.</small></h3> - -<p>This is derived from two climbing plants, Convolvulus scoparius -and Convolvulus floridus, indigenous to the Canary -islands, and is the root wood of these plants. Its odor resembles -that of the rose, and the wood is frequently used for cheap -sachets and for the extraction of the contained essential oil -which was formerly (before oil of rose geranium was made on -the large scale) employed for the adulteration of genuine oil -of rose.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Rose.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Rosa; <i>French</i>—Rose; <i>German</i>—Rosenblüthen.</small></h3> - -<p>Horticulture has produced innumerable varieties from -wild species of roses, which differ in size, form, color, as well -as in odor. We instance here only the various odors exhaled -by tea roses and moss roses. Accordingly, perfumers likewise -distinguish different odors of roses. Cultivated on a large scale -exclusively for the extraction of the essential oil, we find different -varieties of roses in India, in European Turkey (Rosa<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">46</span> -Damascena), in Persia, and in Southern France. In this country -(U. S.), too, oil of roses could be manufactured with advantage.</p> - -<p>The wild rose, sweet brier, French églantine, possesses a -delicate but very fugitive odor, and therefore the perfume -sold as wild rose is usually prepared from other substances -with the addition of oil of roses. The same remark applies to -the odor called “white rose” and to those sold as “tea rose,” -“moss rose,” etc.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Rosemary.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Rosmarinus officinalis; <i>French</i>—Romarin; <i>German</i>—Rosmarin.</small></h3> - -<p>This plant, indigenous to Southern and Central Europe, -contains pretty large quantities of an aromatic oil in its leaves -and flowers; the oil has a refreshing odor and therefore is -frequently added in small amounts to fine perfumes.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Rue.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Ruta graveolens; <i>French</i>—Rue; <i>German</i>—Raute.</small></h3> - -<p>This plant, cultivated in our gardens and also growing wild -here, has long been employed for its strong odor; in perfumery -rue, in a dry state as well as its oil, is occasionally -used.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Sage.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Salvia officinalis; <i>French</i>—Sauge; <i>German</i>—Salbei.</small></h3> - -<p>All varieties of sage, the one named being found most frequently -growing wild in the meadows of Southern Europe, -and extensively cultivated in Europe and in this country, -possess a very agreeable, refreshing odor which adheres for a -long time even to the dried leaves; these are therefore very -suitable for sachets, tooth powders, etc.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">47</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Santal Wood.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Santalum album; <i>French</i>—Santal; <i>German</i>—Santalholz.</small></h3> - -<p>The tree from which this wood is derived is indigenous to -Eastern Asia, to the Sunda Islands. The wood is soft, very -fragrant, and is also erroneously called sandal wood. The -latter is of a dark reddish-brown color, not fragrant, and is -derived from Pterocarpus santalinus, a tree indigenous to -Southern India, and the Philippine Islands; it is of value to the -dyer and the cabinet-maker, but to the perfumer only for coloring -some tinctures. For the purposes of perfumery use -can be made only of santal wood (white or yellow santal -wood) which possesses a very pleasant odor resembling that -of oil of rose. Formerly essential oil of santal was employed -for the adulteration of oil of rose. White and yellow santal -wood comes from the same tree—the former from the smaller -trunks of Santalum album.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Sassafras.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Lignum Sassafras; <i>French</i>—Sassafras; <i>German</i>—Sassafrasholz.</small></h3> - -<p>Sassafras wood, derived from the root of the American -tree Sassafras officinalis, appears in commerce in large bundles. -It has a strong peculiar odor; in the bark of the root -the odor is even more marked. In the European drug trade -Sassafras saw dust is also met with, but this is not rarely -mixed with pine saw dust which has been moistened with -fennel water and again dried. In perfumery sassafras wood -is less used for the manufacture of volatile odors than for -scenting soap. Since the principal constituent of oil of sassafras, -viz., safrol, has been found to be contained in the crude -oil of Japanese camphor, the latter has to a very large extent -taken the place of the natural oil.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">48</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Spikenard.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Nardostachys Jatamansi; <i>French</i>—Spic-nard; <i>German</i>—Nardenkraut.</small></h3> - -<p>This plant, belonging to the Order of Valerianaceæ, which -generally possess a strong and more or less unpleasant odor, -forms one of the main objects of Oriental perfumery; in the -East Indies, where the plant grows wild on the mountains, the -odor is held about in the same estimation as that of roses, -violets, etc., in Europe. Spikenard was probably known to -the ancient Babylonians and Assyrians, for in the Bible, in the -Song of Solomon, we find this plant repeatedly mentioned -and praised for its pleasant odor. As the odor of spikenard -is not appreciated in Europe, the plant is rarely met with in -commerce. All parts of the plant are aromatic, but use is -chiefly made of the root, consisting of fine fibres which are -tied in bundles the thickness of a finger.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Star-Anise.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Illicium; Semen Anisi stellati; <i>French</i>—Badiane; <i>German</i>—Sternanis.</small></h3> - -<p>Star-anise occurs in commerce in the form of eight-chambered -capsules, each compartment containing one glossy seed, -and is derived from a Chinese tree, Illicium anisatum. The -fruits are brown, woody; the seed has a sweetish taste and an -odor resembling that of anise. Outside of perfumery star-anise -is used in the manufacture of liqueurs. Recently a drug -has appeared in commerce under the name of star-anise which -possesses poisonous qualities, and is derived from another -variety of Illicium (Illicium religiosum). While this may be -of no consequence to the perfumer, it is important to the -manufacturer of liqueurs who always uses star-anise for fine -goods and never oil of anise.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">49</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Storax.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Styrax; <i>French</i>—Styrax; <i>German</i>—Storax.</small></h3> - -<p>This product which belongs among the balsams is derived -from a small tree, Liquidambar orientalis, and is obtained -from the bark by heating with water, and also by pressure. It -forms a viscid mass like turpentine, has a gray color, a burning -sharp taste, an agreeable odor, and is easily soluble in strong -alcohol; but the odor becomes pleasant only after the solution -is highly diluted. Storax has the peculiar property of -binding different, very delicate odors, to render them less -fugitive, and for this reason finds frequent application in perfumery.</p> - -<p>Oriental storax should not be confounded with American -storax which occurs in commerce under the name of Sweet -Gum, Gum Wax, or Liquidamber, and is derived from Liquidambar -styraciflua. It is quite a thick transparent liquid, light -yellow, gradually becoming more and more solid and darker -colored, but is often used in place of the former, though its -odor is less fine.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Sumbul Root.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Radix Sumbul; <i>French</i>—Soumboul; <i>German</i>—Moschuswurzel.</small></h3> - -<p>The Sumbul plant (Ferula Sumbul), indigenous to Turkestan -and adjoining countries, has a light brown root covered -with thin fibres, which has a penetrating odor of musk. Owing -to this quality it is frequently employed in perfumery, -especially for sachets. In commerce a distinction is made -between East Indian and Bokharian or Russian sumbul, due -to the different routes by which the article arrives. The latter, -which possesses the strongest odor, probably because -it reaches the market in a fresher state, is the most valuable.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">50</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Sweet Almonds.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Amygdala dulcis; <i>French</i>—Amandes douces; <i>German</i>—Süsse -Mandeln.</small></h3> - -<p>The almond-tree, Amygdalus communis, occurs in two -varieties, undistinguishable by botanical characteristics. One -bears sweet, the other bitter fruits (comp. Bitter almonds, -page 24). Both are odorless and contain much fixed oil. -The special odor of bitter almonds forms only in consequence -of the decomposition of a peculiar body (amygdalin), present -in bitter almonds, when it comes in contact with water. Good -almonds are full, juicy, light brown, without wrinkles, and -have a sweet mild taste. A rancid taste characterizes staleness. -The fixed or expressed oil, both that of the sweet and -that of the bitter almonds (which are identical in taste, odor, -and other properties), is used in perfumery for fine hair oils, -ointments, and some fine soft soaps.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Sweet-Flag Root.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Radix Calami; <i>French</i>—Racine de glaïeule; <i>German</i>—Calmuswurzel.</small></h3> - -<p>The calamus root met with in commerce is the creeping -root-stock of a plant (Acorus Calamus), occurring in all countries -of the northern hemisphere, and frequent in European -and American swamps. The root-stock is spongy, about as -thick as a finger, many-jointed, and of a yellowish color, with -many dark streaks and dots. Inside the color is reddish-white. -The odor is strong and the taste sharp and burning.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Sweet-Pea.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Lathyrus tuberosus; <i>French</i>—Pois de senteur; <i>German</i>—Platterbsenblüthen.</small></h3> - -<p>Sweet-pea flowers, which have a very delicate odor, yield -it to the usual solvents. The odor bears some resemblance<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">51</span> -to that of orange flowers, but is rarely used alone; it is generally -combined with others to make it more lasting.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Syringa.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Philadelphus coronarius; <i>French</i>—Seringat, Lilac; -<i>German</i>—Pfeifenstrauchblüthen.</small></h3> - -<p>The white flowers of this garden bush have a very pleasant -odor which resembles that of orange flowers, in place of which -it can be used, in the cheaper grades of perfumery. This -plant which flourishes freely in our climate deserves more attention -by perfumers than it has hitherto received, since it -appears to furnish an excellent substitute for the expensive -oil of orange flowers, as above stated, in cheap perfumes.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Thyme.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Thymus Serpyllum; <i>French</i>—Thym; <i>German</i>—Thymian.</small></h3> - -<p>This well-known aromatic plant, which grows most luxuriantly -on a calcareous soil, has an odor which is not unpleasant -but is in greater demand for liqueurs than for perfumes. -Here and there, however, it is employed for scenting soap. -Common thyme, Thymus vulgaris, is used for the same purposes.</p> - -<p>Under the name of Oil of Thyme, in the English and -American market, is generally understood the oil of Thymus -vulgaris, which is largely distilled in the South of France. -This oil is commonly misnamed Oil of Origanum.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tolu Balsam.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Balsamum tolutanum; <i>French</i>—Beaume de Tolu; <i>German</i>—Tolubalsam.</small></h3> - -<p>This balsam is derived from a tree indigenous to the northern -portion of South America, Toluifera Balsamum, belonging<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">52</span> -to the Order of Leguminosæ. The balsam, which is obtained -by incisions into the bark of these trees, is at first fluid, but -becomes firm in the air owing to rapid resinification; in commerce -it appears in a viscid form ranging from that of Venice -turpentine to that of colophony. Its color varies from honey-yellow -to reddish-brown; the taste is at first sweet, then sharp, -it softens under the heat of the hand, and when warmed or -sprinkled in powder form on glowing coals it diffuses a very -pleasant odor recalling that of Peru balsam or vanilla. It -shares with storax and Peru balsam the valuable property of -fixing volatile odors and is often employed for this purpose, -but is also frequently used alone in fumigating powders, tooth -powders, etc. Adulteration of Tolu balsam with Venice turpentine -or colophony is not rarely met with.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tonka Beans.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Fabæ Tonkæ; <i>French</i>—Fèves de Tonka; <i>German</i>—Tonkabohnen, -Tonkasamen.</small></h3> - -<p>The South American tonka tree, Dipteryx odorata, bears -almond-shaped drupes almost as long as the finger, which contain -seeds two to four centimetres in length, the so-called -tonka beans. These occur in European commerce in two -sorts, the so-called Dutch and English tonka beans; the former -are large, full, covered externally with a folded brown to black -skin, and white inside. The latter are barely two-thirds the -size of the former, almost black, and less glossy. The odor -of the tonka bean is due to a volatile crystalline substance, -coumarin, which often lies on the surface and in the wrinkles -of the bean in the form of delicate, brilliant crystalline needles. -Coumarin exists also in many other plants, for instance, in -sweet woodruff (Asperula odorata), deer-tongue (Liatris odoratissima), -etc.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">53</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tuberose.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Polianthus tuberosa; <i>French</i>—Tubérose; <i>German</i>—Tuberose.</small></h3> - -<p>This beautiful and very fragrant plant is frequently cultivated -in Southern France; its pleasant odor, however, owing -to its great volatility, can never be used pure, but must always -be fixed with one of the above-mentioned balsams. As has -been stated in connection with several aromatic plants, tuberose -could be grown in our southern States with advantage -for the extraction of its odor.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Vanilla.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Vanilla aromatica, Vanilla planifolia; <i>French</i>—Vanille; -<i>German</i>—Vanille.</small></h3> - -<p>The vanilla, which may justly be called a king among aromatic -plants, is a climbing orchid indigenous to tropical America. -It is cultivated on a most extensive scale on the islands -of Reunion and Mauritius; largely also in Mexico, and in -some other countries. The agreeable odor is present in the -fruit. These form three-lobed capsules about the length of -a lead pencil and the thickness of a quill. Externally they -are glossy brown, have a fatty feel, and show in the depression -a white powder which appears crystalline under a lens. Internally -good fresh vanilla is so oily that it stains the fingers -on being crushed and is filled with numerous shining seeds -the size of a small pin’s head. These properties, together -with the plump appearance and great weight, mark good qualities. -Old vanilla, whose odor is fainter and less fragrant, -may be recognized by its wrinkled surface, the absence of the -white dust, the slight weight, and the bent ends of the capsules. -Fraudulent dealers endeavor to give such old goods -a fresher appearance by coating them with almond oil or Peru<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">54</span> -balsam. “Vanilla de Leg” is recognized as the first quality -of Mexican vanilla. Like most odors, that of vanilla does not -become pleasant until it is sufficiently diluted.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Verbena.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Verbena triphylla, Aloysia citriodora; <i>French</i>—Verveine; -<i>German</i>—Verbenakraut.</small></h3> - -<p>The leaves of this Peruvian plant, especially on being -rubbed between the fingers, exhale a very pleasant odor which -is due to an essential oil. The odor resembles that of fine -citrons, or rather that of lemon grass; hence these two odors -are frequently mistaken for each other. Owing to the high -price of true oil of verbena, all the perfumes sold under this -name are prepared from oil of lemon grass (see under Citronella) -and other essential oils.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Vetiver.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Andropogon muricatus; <i>French</i>—Vétyver; <i>German</i>—Vetiverwurzel.</small></h3> - -<p>Vetiver, also called cuscus, and sometimes iwarankusa -(though this is more properly the name of Andropogon lanifer; -see above, under Citronella), is the fibrous root-stock of a -grass indigenous to India, where fragrant mats are woven -from it. The odor of the root somewhat resembles that of -santal wood, and is used partly alone, partly for fixing volatile -perfumes. Shavings of the root are frequently employed -for filling sachet bags.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Violet.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Viola odorata; <i>French</i>—Violette; <i>German</i>—Veilchenblüthen.</small></h3> - -<p>The wonderful fragrance of the March violet is due to an -essential oil which it is, however, difficult to extract. For -this reason genuine perfume of violets, really prepared from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">55</span> -the flowers, is among the most expensive odors, and the high-priced -so-called violet perfumes are generally mixtures of -other fine odors, while the cheaper grades are made from orris -root.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Volkameria.</span></h3> - -<p>This plant, Volkameria inermis, often cultivated in conservatories, -has a very agreeable odor. The perfume called -by this name, however, is not obtained from the plant, but is -produced by the mixture of several aromatic extracts from -other plants.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Wallflower.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Cheiranthus Cheiri; <i>French</i>—Giroflé; <i>German</i>—Levkojenblüthen, -Goldlack.</small></h3> - -<p>The wallflower, a well-known biennial garden plant belonging -to the Order of Cruciferæ, according to recent experiments -yields a very fine odor to certain substances and may be employed -in the manufacture of quite superior perfumes. The -preparations usually sold as wallflower, however, are not made -from the flowers of this plant, but are mixtures of different -odors.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Wintergreen.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Gaultheria procumbens; <i>French</i>—Gaulthérie; <i>German</i>—Wintergrünblätter.</small></h3> - -<p>This herbaceous plant, indigenous to North America, especially -Canada and the Northern and Middle United States, -where it grows wild in large quantities, has a very pleasant -odor due to an essential oil and a compound ether which can -also be produced artificially. The odor of wintergreen serves -chiefly for scenting fine soaps.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">56</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Ylang-Ylang.</span></h3> - -<p>This plant, Unona odoratissima, indigenous to the Philippine -Islands, contains an exceedingly fragrant oil. It is -brought into commerce from Manilla.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Owing to climatic relations, it is impossible for the perfumer -to procure all the above-enumerated substances in the -fresh state; many of them he is forced to purchase through -the drug trade, and he should bear in mind to give the preference -always to the freshest obtainable goods. At times it -is not possible to utilize the materials at once for the extraction -of the odors and they must be kept for some time. The -vegetable substances should always be stored in an airy, not -over dry room; and the material should be often inspected. -If a trace of mouldiness shows itself, the material must be -worked at once, since, if the mould is allowed to go on, the -fragrance will suffer and may be destroyed altogether.</p> - -<p>The aromatic substances here enumerated are those which -have actually found general employment in perfumery; but -the list is not complete, since every aromatic plant can be used -for the extraction of its odor. Of course, this is connected -with some difficulties, but even in the present state of our -knowledge they can all be overcome. When a new odor has -been prepared, the art of the perfumer consists in ascertaining -by many experiments those substances which harmonize with -it; for with few exceptions the finest grades of perfumes are not -single odors but combinations of several which are in accord.</p> - -<p>Even among our domestic plants there are numerous finds -to be made by the perfumer, and in this respect we refer particularly -to some very fragrant kinds of orchids in our woods -and to the delightful odor of the lily of the valley. As to the -latter, a perfume is met with in commerce under this name, -but its odor bears no resemblance to that of the flower.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">57</span></p> - -<p>A few facts appear to us of especial importance. In practical -perfumery many of the plants which are easily obtainable -in large quantities, such as the flowers of clover and trefoil, -the primrose, the rock-rose (Daphne Cneorum), dame’s-violet -(Hesperis matronalis), and others above named, have never -been employed. As an actual curiosity we may state that -there is thus far no perfume containing the delightful odor -present in the flowers of the linden-tree, of the Robinia (erroneously -called Acacia), of the lilac, etc., at least not made -from the plants here named.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a><br /> - -<small>THE ANIMAL SUBSTANCES USED IN PERFUMERY.</small></h2> - - -<p>While the vegetable kingdom offers us an abundance of -aromatic odors the end of which it is impossible to foresee, -the animal kingdom contains absolutely no substance which -may be called sweet-scented in the strict sense of the term. -If we find nevertheless a few animal substances generally used -in perfumery, they should be considered rather as excellent -means for fixing subtle vegetable odors than as fragrant bodies -in the true sense. By themselves, indeed, they have an odor, -but to most persons it is not agreeable even if properly diluted. -Thus far only five substances of animal origin are employed -in perfumery, namely: ambergris, castor, hyraceum, musk, and -civet.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Ambergris.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Ambra grisea; <i>French</i>—Ambregris; <i>German</i>—Ambra.</small></h3> - -<p>This is a substance whose origin is still doubtful; many -facts indicate that it is a secretion—whether normal or morbid -may be left undecided—of the largest living mammal,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">58</span> -namely, of the pot-whale (Physeter macrocephalus). Ambergris -is found in the intestines of this animal or, more frequently, -floating about in the sea; the shores of the continents -bordering the Indian Ocean furnish the largest amount of this -peculiar substance.</p> - -<p>Ambergris is a grayish-white fatty substance which occurs -in commerce in pieces of various sizes—those as large as a fist -are rare—of a penetrating, decidedly disagreeable odor. It -is soluble in alcohol, and when properly diluted the odor becomes -pleasant and it is so permanent that a piece of linen -moistened with it smells of it even after being washed with -soap. By itself, ambergris is not much used; it finds its chief -application in combination with other odors or as an addition -to some perfumes in order to make them lasting.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Castor.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Castoreum; <i>French</i>—Castoreum; <i>German</i>—Castoreum.</small></h3> - -<p>This is a secretion of the beaver (Castor fiber); it accumulates -in two pear-shaped bags on the abdomen of the animal, -both male and female. The hunters remove these bags from -the body of the dead animal and in this form they are brought -into commerce. These sacs are the length of a finger, at the -thickest point the diameter of a thumb, and contain a greasy -mass of yellowish-brown, reddish-brown, or blackish color, -according to the nourishment of the animal. This mass constitutes -castor; it has a strong, disagreeable odor, a bitter, -balsamic taste, becomes soft when heated, is combustible, and -almost entirely soluble in alcohol. It is probable that this -secretion in its composition has some relation to the nourishment -of the beavers which feed by preference on resinous -vegetable substances. In commerce Canadian and Siberian -castor are distinguished; the latter is more valuable and has -almost disappeared from the market. It possesses a peculiar<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">59</span> -tarry, Russian-leather odor, probably due to a substance -present in birch bark, upon which the Siberian animals feed -almost exclusively. Canadian castor has an odor more nearly -resembling pine resin. In perfumery castor is rarely used, -usually only for fixing other odors.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Hyraceum.</span></h3> - -<p>The substance occurring in commerce under this name, the -excrement of an animal found in Capeland, the rock badger -or rock rabbit (Hyrax capensis), is very similar in its properties -to castor, and according to comparative experiments -made by us can be used in place of the latter.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Musk.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Moschus; <i>French</i>—Musc; <i>German</i>—Moschus.</small></h3> - -<p>Of animal substances, musk is most frequently used in -perfumery, and possesses the most agreeable odor of them -all. Moreover, the odor of musk is the most intense that we -know, actually imponderable quantities of it being sufficient -to impart to a large body of air the strong odor of musk. -This substance is derived from a deer which attains the size -of a small goat and, like the chamois of the Alps, lives on the -highest mountains of the Himalayas. Only the male animal -(Moschus moschiferus) produces musk, which is secreted in a -sac or rather gland near the sexual organ. Musk being subject -to the worst adulterations owing to its high price, we -append a description of the substance as well as of the sac -or bag in which it appears in commerce.</p> - -<p>The musk bag cut by the hunter from the body of the -animal has the size and shape of half a walnut. On the side -by which it was attached to the body of the animal it is membranous -and nearly smooth; on the external surface it is -more or less hemispherical and covered with light brown or -dark brown hair, according to the season at which the animal<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">60</span> -was killed. The hair assumes a circular arrangement around -an opening situated in the centre of the bag. This opening, the -efferent duct of the gland, is formed by a ring-shaped muscle -which yields to the pressure of a pointed object and permits -the introduction of the point of the finger. Internally the musk -bag consists of several layers of membrane which surround -the musk itself. It is probable that the musk is secreted by -these membranes, for when the animal is dissected, no direct -communication of the musk gland with the body can be detected.</p> - -<p>It has been surmised that the secretion of musk bears -some relation to the food; at least it has been asserted that -the animals eat, among other things, sumbul root with great -avidity; and this root, it will be remembered, has a very intense -odor of musk. However, though this appears probable -at first sight, it is contradicted by the fact that the females -and the young males likewise eat the root without manifesting -any odor of musk nor do they secrete the substance, while -the older males produce it even when they are fed with hay -only. Another fact is of interest, namely, that other ruminants, -too, for instance, cattle, diffuse a marked though faint -odor of musk which occurs also in their excrements, exactly -as in the case of the musk deer. Alligators likewise produce -a musk-like substance which has actually been made use of in -place of musk for coarser purposes.</p> - -<p>The musk present in the glands differs in appearance with -the season and the age of the animal. Musk deers killed in -spring have in their musk bag an unctuous soft mass of a reddish-brown -color with the strongest odor; at other seasons the -mass is darker in color, almost black, and granular; the size -of the grains ranges from that of a millet-seed to that of a -large pea.</p> - -<p>That the secretion of musk belongs to the sexual functions -appears probable from the fact that it can be found only in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">61</span> -the bags of males more than two years old; that of younger -animals contains only a substance of a milky consistence, -whose odor has no resemblance to that of musk. The quantity -of musk present in a bag varies with the season and the -age of the animal; the smallest quantity may be assumed at -about six drachms, though some bags contain as much as one -and a half ounces.</p> - -<p>The hunters dry the bags either on hot stones or in the -air, or they dip them into hot oil. In commerce musk occurs -either in bags under the name moschus in vesicis, “musk in -pods,” or free, moschus in granis, moschus ex vesicis, “grain -musk.” According to its origin four sorts are distinguished: -Chinese or Tonquin musk, Siberian or Russian musk, Assam -or Bengal musk, and finally Bokharian musk. The latter two -varieties, however, rarely reach this market. Chinese musk -(Tonquin or Thibet musk) occurs in small boxes containing -twenty to thirty bags, each wrapped in Chinese tissue paper; -on which Chinese characters are printed. This is considered -the best quality. Assam musk occurs in boxes lined with -tin which contain as many as two hundred or more bags; its -value is about two-thirds that of the former. Russian musk is -packed in various ways and is worth about one-fourth that of -the Chinese; a special variety of it, of a weaker and rather urinous -odor, is known as Cabardine musk; of least value is Bokharian -musk which is of a grayish black color, with a faint odor.</p> - -<p>Musk is adulterated in an almost incredible manner; at -times so-called musk bags are met with which are artificially -constructed of animal membranes and filled with dried blood, -earth, etc., and slightly scented with genuine musk. But -even the genuine musk bags are often tampered with; musk -being removed from the opening and the space filled with -earth, dried blood, animal excrement, or perhaps pieces of -copper and lead.</p> - -<p>Pure musk reacts quite characteristically toward caustic<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">62</span> -alkalies such as caustic potash and soda or solution of ammonia, -and these substances are used for testing the purity of -musk. If a dilute alkaline solution is poured over musk, a -marked increase of the odor is observed after a short time; if -the alkaline solution is concentrated or hot, the odor of musk -disappears completely and the fluid develops the caustic odor -of pure ammonia. Hot water dissolves about eighty per cent -of the total weight of musk; strong alcohol dissolves about -one-tenth of it; when heated in an open porcelain capsule, -musk burns with a disgusting empyreumatic odor and leaves -a considerable amount of ash, about one-tenth of its weight. -Besides the above-named substances which destroy the musk -odor by the decomposition of the aromatic constituent, there -are other bodies, whose action we do not know at present, -which have the peculiar property of completely extinguishing -this most penetrating of all odors: to deodorize a vessel completely -which has contained musk, it is sufficient to rub in it -some bitter almonds moistened with water or some camphor -with alcohol.</p> - -<p>In an extremely dilute condition musk is used for perfuming -the finest soaps and sachets, and even in the manufacture -of the most expensive and best perfumes, owing to its property -of imparting permanence to very volatile odors. In the -last-mentioned class, however, the quantity of musk must always -be so small that its presence is not distinctly observed, -since many persons find the pure odor of musk very disagreeable, -while they praise the fragrance of such perfumes as -contain an amount of this substance too small to be perceived -by the olfactory nerves.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Civet.</span><br /> - -<small><i>Latin</i>—Civetta; <i>French</i>—Civette; <i>German</i>—Zibeth.</small></h3> - -<p>This substance bears some resemblance to musk with -reference to its derivation and the rôle it plays in the life of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">63</span> -the animal from which it is obtained. The Viverridæ, a class -of carnivora related to the cats and weasels, found in Asia -and Africa, furnish this substance. It is obtained chiefly -from the civet cat (Viverra Civetta) and the musk rat (Viverra -Zibetha) which are kept in captivity for the purpose of abstracting -from them from time to time the civet which is -always formed anew.</p> - -<p>Civet is the secretion of a double gland present both in -the male and the female near the sexual organs. Fresh civet -is a whitish-yellow mass of the consistence of butter or fat, -and becomes thicker and darker on exposure to the air. -Similar to musk, it has a strong odor which becomes pleasant -on being diluted and is used both alone and for fixing other -odors.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a><br /> - -<small>THE CHEMICAL PRODUCTS USED IN PERFUMERY.</small></h2> - - -<p>In the manufacture of perfumery a considerable number -of chemical products find application; in this place, however, -we shall describe only those which are used very frequently -and generally, and discuss the characteristics of those employed -more rarely in connection with the articles of perfumery -into which they enter. According to their application -we may divide these substances into several groups, namely:</p> - -<p>A. Chemicals which, without themselves serving as perfumes, -are used exclusively for the extraction of odors.</p> - -<p>B. Chemicals which, while not fragrant, are frequently -employed in the preparation of perfumes. Under this head -we have included also those substances which are not strictly -chemical products, but originally come from the animal or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">64</span> -vegetable kingdom, such as fats, spermaceti, and wax, yet cannot -be used in perfumery unless they have undergone a process -of chemical purification.</p> - -<p>C. Chemical products used for coloring perfumes, so-called -dye-stuffs.</p> - -<p>The greater portion of the substances to be here described -it will hardly be the province of the perfumer to prepare -himself, as they are furnished by chemical factories at low -prices; but some of them—for instance, sublimed, natural -benzoic acid suitable for perfumery and a few other substances—the -perfumer should make himself, in order to be -sure of its genuineness. Therefore, while in the former class it -will be sufficient to describe their properties to enable the -manufacturer to distinguish good quality from bad, the latter -class must be discussed at greater length.</p> - - -<h3>A. Chemicals used for the Extraction of Aromatic -Substances.</h3> - -<p>For the extraction of aromatic substances from plants a -number of bodies are used which possess great solvent power -for essential oils, and are besides very volatile, or have a low -boiling-point. These are particularly ether, chloroform, petroleum -ether, and bisulphide of carbon.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Ether.</span></h4> - -<p>This liquid, in commerce also called sulphuric ether, is -made in large quantities in chemical laboratories by the distillation -of alcohol with sulphuric acid, followed by a second -distillation or rectification. When pure, ether forms a mobile, -thin, strong-smelling, and inflammable liquid which when -inhaled produces insensibility, for which reason it is used as -an anæsthetic in surgery. Its specific gravity is about 0.720 -when anhydrous, and its boiling-point 35° C. (95° F.). It -forms an excellent solvent for essential oils, resins, fats, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">65</span> -similar bodies. Owing to its great volatility, its vapors are -quickly diffused in the air, and, as they are very inflammable, -lights must be kept away from a bottle containing this substance. -The same remark applies to most of the substances -to be presently described.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Chloroform.</span></h4> - -<p>is prepared by the distillation of chlorinated lime, alcohol, and -water, acetone being more recently substituted for the alcohol, -followed by rectification of the product. When inhaled it -produces insensibility like ether. It has a pleasant odor and -sweet taste. Its specific gravity is about 1.49 and its boiling-point -61° C. (142° F.). Owing to its great solvent power and -low boiling-point, chloroform is largely used for the extraction -of aromatic vegetable substances; it does not take fire -directly in the air.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Petroleum Ether.</span></h4> - -<p>Petroleum, which is brought into commerce in immense -quantities, especially from Pennsylvania, for illuminating purposes, -cannot be used in its crude state, but requires rectification. -Petroleum as it issues from the earth consists of various -hydrocarbons mixed together, some of which have very low -boiling-points, so that their vapors readily take fire and would -make the use of petroleum in lamps dangerous. Petroleum, -therefore, is heated in large apparatuses to about 70 or 80° -C. (158 to 176° F.), when the more volatile products pass -over, and the petroleum for illuminating purposes remains in -the stills. A certain fraction of the volatile distillate, the -so-called petroleum ether, is largely used in the manufacture -of varnishes. Owing to its great solvent power for aromatic -vegetable substances and its low price, petroleum ether has -become quite an important body for the extraction of perfumes, -which will be further discussed hereafter. Good pe<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">66</span>troleum -ether is colorless, has a peculiar, not unpleasant odor -and a boiling-point between 50 and 55° C. (112° and 131° F.).</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Benzin.</span></h4> - -<p>is a common name for another fraction of the volatile distillate -from petroleum, viz., that which boils between 50° and -60°C. (122° to 140° F.) and has a spec. grav. of 0.670 to 0.675°.</p> - -<p>This liquid, which is also used as a volatile solvent for the -extraction of odorous substances, must not be confounded -with Benzene or Benzol, a distillate from coal tar, boiling at -about 80° C. (176° F.) and having a spec. grav. of 0.878. The -latter is not used for the extraction of perfumes.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Bisulphide of Carbon.</span></h4> - -<p>This is made by conducting vapors of sulphur over glowing -charcoal or coke. The vapors of bisulphide of carbon thus -formed are led into vessels filled with ice or ice-cold water, -where they condense. Bisulphide of carbon is a colorless -liquid, heavier than water and very refractive. It is inflammable, -and possesses a peculiar odor which is not disagreeable -if the liquid has been thoroughly purified. Its boiling-point -is about 45° C. (113° F.) and it has great solvent power. At -the present time, the market affords bisulphide of carbon of a -high degree of purity.</p> - -<p>Some manufacturers who prepare their odors by extraction, -may find it advantageous to make also the bisulphide of carbon -necessary for it, and this is best done in Gérard’s apparatus -(Fig. 1). It consists of a cast-iron cylinder <i>a</i>, two metres high -and one metre in diameter. This cylinder is heated on the -outer surface in an oven, and two tubes, <i>c</i> and <i>d</i>, are attached -to it. Tube <i>d</i> is connected by <i>e</i> with the hemispherical vessel -<i>b</i> which is connected by the tube <i>i</i> with the condenser <i>mlk</i>. -The condenser is formed of three cylinders made of sheet<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">67</span> -zinc which are surrounded with cold water. The condensed -liquid escapes into the vessel <i>p</i>, while the gaseous products -pass through <i>n</i> into the chimney. The cylinder <i>a</i> is filled -with about 1,500 pounds of charcoal or coke in small pieces, -after which it is closed and all tubes are carefully luted with -clay; <i>a</i> is then heated to a strong red heat and at intervals -of three minutes 3 pounds of sulphur are thrown in through <i>c</i>. -In twenty-four hours, by the use of 478 pounds of sulphur, -568 pounds of crude bisulphide of carbon are obtained; a -portion of the sulphur distils over uncombined into the vessel -<i>b</i>.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_067.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>The crude bisulphide of carbon contains about twelve per -cent of sulphur and other combinations in solution and is -redistilled at exactly 48° C. (118.4° F.) in a steam-heated apparatus -with a long exit tube cooled with ice below and water -above. In order to obtain the bisulphide of carbon absolutely -pure, which is essential to render it suitable for extraction, -it is again distilled at the same temperature, with the addition -of two per cent of palm oil. As the vapors of bisulphide -of carbon are injurious to the organism, the vessels containing -it must always be kept well closed.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">68</span></p> - - -<h3>B. Chemical Products used for the Preparation of -Perfumes.</h3> - -<p>Among all the substances belonging under this head, there -is one which plays a prominent part in the manufacture of -most perfumes. In handkerchief perfumes it is one of the -most important substances, as it forms not only the greatest -bulk, but the perfection of the perfume depends upon its -quality. This substance is—</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Alcohol</span>,</h4> - -<p>also called spirit of wine; French, esprit de vin; the well-known -combustible liquid formed by the alcoholic fermentation -of sugar, which is made on a large scale in extensive distilleries. -Alcohol is a thin, mobile liquid with an aromatic -odor. The usual “strong” alcohol of the market contains -about ninety-four per cent of absolute alcohol by volume. -This has a specific gravity of 0·820. Its boiling-point is 78·2° -C. (172·40 F.), and it congeals at a very low temperature, below --100° C. Alcohol possesses great solvent power for -resins, balsams, and essential oils.</p> - -<p>These properties, however, belong only to the commercial -stronger or so-called “druggists’ alcohol,” and more particularly -to a very pure quality of it, as free as possible from fusel-oil -compounds, known as cologne spirit. As absolute alcohol -is also necessary for the purposes of perfumery, we shall briefly -describe its preparation.</p> - -<p>In order to make absolute alcohol, sulphate of copper is -heated in a retort until it has changed into a white powder. -After the powder has cooled in the covered retort, it is at -once introduced into a large glass bottle; over it is poured -the strongest obtainable alcohol (96% Tralles) which must be -free from fusel oil; then the bottle is closed air-tight and re<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">69</span>peatedly -shaken. The sulphate of copper which has lost its -water of crystallization by the heat reabsorbs it from the alcohol -and again becomes blue and crystalline. Generally four -pounds of sulphate of copper are used for ten quarts of alcohol; -when white burnt sulphate of copper after long contact -with alcohol still remains white, the alcohol is proved to be -practically anhydrous (it may still contain about two per cent -of water).</p> - -<p>Larger quantities of absolute alcohol are made in a copper -still containing fused anhydrous chloride of calcium in -small pieces. The apparatus is closed and alcohol of 94 to -95% is poured in through a tubulure. The mixture often -grows so warm that the alcohol begins to pass over, so that but -little heat need be applied to make the absolute alcohol distil -over.</p> - -<p>Absolute alcohol obtained in this way—for by repeated distillation -we get at most an alcohol of 96%—abstracts water -from the air with avidity; hence it must be preserved in air-tight -vessels which should contain a small -amount of anhydrous sulphate of copper.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<img src="images/i_069.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>Strong commercial alcohol contains varying -amounts of water—from four to twenty -parts by volume (96 to 80% alcohol); at the -present time, however, it is always customary -for dealers in this country to supply the -officinal alcohol of 94%, when “strong alcohol” -is called for. Its strength is measured -by an areometer which sinks in proportion to -the purity of the alcohol; the alcoholometer -of Tralles or volumeter shows at once on its -scale how many parts by volume of absolute -alcohol (volume per cent) are contained in 100 -volumes of alcohol. The adjoining figure (Fig. 2) shows -Tralles’ alcoholometer, with the vessel in which the test is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">70</span> -made. The readings of the instrument, however, are correct -only at a temperature of 15·6° C. (60° F.), the so-called normal -temperature; at a higher or lower point they must be -corrected according to the tables appended.</p> - -<p>At temperatures below the normal, the amount of alcohol is -greater than the areometer indicates, hence a percentage -must be added; at higher temperatures a percentage must be -deducted.</p> - - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Tables for Finding the True Percentage by Volume, at -the Normal Temperature of 60° F., of Alcohol of Any -Strength, when Tested at Temperatures Below or -Above 60° F.</span></p> -<div class="small"> -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Table I.—For Temperatures Under 60° F.</span></p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <th>Per cent<br />of<br />Alcohol<br />by<br />Volume.</th> - <th>Number of<br />F. Degrees<br />Requiring<br /><span class="smcap">Addition</span><br />of one to<br />Percentage.</th> - <th></th> - <th>Per cent<br />of<br />Alcohol<br />by<br />Volume.</th> - <th>Number of<br />F. Degrees<br />Requiring<br /><span class="smcap">Addition</span><br />of one to<br />Percentage.</th> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 21</td> - <td class="tdli">5·4</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">60</td> - <td class="tdli">5·4</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 22</td> - <td class="tdli">5·175</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">61</td> - <td class="tdli">5·4</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 23</td> - <td class="tdli">4·725</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">62</td> - <td class="tdli">5·4</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 24</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">63</td> - <td class="tdli">5·625</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 25</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">64</td> - <td class="tdli">5·625</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 26</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">65</td> - <td class="tdli">5·625</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 27</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">66</td> - <td class="tdli">5·625</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 28</td> - <td class="tdli">4·275</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">67</td> - <td class="tdli">5·625</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 29</td> - <td class="tdli">4·275</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">68</td> - <td class="tdli">5·85</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 30</td> - <td class="tdli">4·275</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">69</td> - <td class="tdli">5·85</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 31</td> - <td class="tdli">4·275</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">70</td> - <td class="tdli">5·85</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 32</td> - <td class="tdli">4·275</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">71</td> - <td class="tdli">5·85</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 33</td> - <td class="tdli">4·275</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">72</td> - <td class="tdli">5·85</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 34</td> - <td class="tdli">4·275</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">73</td> - <td class="tdli">5·85</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 35</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">74</td> - <td class="tdli">6·075</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 36</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">75</td> - <td class="tdli">6·075</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 37</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">76</td> - <td class="tdli">6·075</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 38</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">77</td> - <td class="tdli">6·075</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 39</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">78</td> - <td class="tdli">6·3</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 40</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">79</td> - <td class="tdli">6·3</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 41</td> - <td class="tdli">4·725</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">80</td> - <td class="tdli">6·3</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 42</td> - <td class="tdli">4·725</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">81</td> - <td class="tdli">6·525</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 43</td> - <td class="tdli">4·725</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">82</td> - <td class="tdli">6·525</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 44</td> - <td class="tdli">4·725</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">83</td> - <td class="tdli">6·75</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 45</td> - <td class="tdli">4·95</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">84</td> - <td class="tdli">6·75</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 46</td> - <td class="tdli">4·95</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">85</td> - <td class="tdli">6·75</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 47</td> - <td class="tdli">4·95</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">86</td> - <td class="tdli">6·75</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 48</td> - <td class="tdli">4·95</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">87</td> - <td class="tdli">6·975</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 49</td> - <td class="tdli">4·95</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">88</td> - <td class="tdli">7·2</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"> 50</td> - <td class="tdli">5·175</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">89</td> - <td class="tdli">7·425</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">51</td> - <td class="tdli">5·175</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">90</td> - <td class="tdli">7·65</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">52</td> - <td class="tdli">5·175</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">91</td> - <td class="tdli">7·875</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">53</td> - <td class="tdli">5·175</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">92</td> - <td class="tdli">8·1</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">54</td> - <td class="tdli">5·175</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">93</td> - <td class="tdli">8·325</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">55</td> - <td class="tdli">5·175</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">94</td> - <td class="tdli">8·775</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">56</td> - <td class="tdli">5·175</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">95</td> - <td class="tdli">9·</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">57</td> - <td class="tdli">5·4</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">96</td> - <td class="tdli">9·45</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">58</td> - <td class="tdli">5·4</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">97</td> - <td class="tdli">10·125</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">59</td> - <td class="tdli">5·4</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli"></td> - <td class="tdli"></td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="smcap">Explanation.</span>—Supposing an alcohol should be found to contain 40 per cent of -absolute alcohol by Tralles’ alcoholometer at 45° F. The difference between 45 -and 60° F. is 15. Opposite to 40 will be found the figure 4·5. For every 4·5 degrees -F. below 60° there must be added 1 to the alcoholic percentage. Hence -for 15 degrees there must be added 3.3 degrees. The alcoholic percentage, by -volume, therefore, is 43·3 per cent.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">71</span></p> - - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Table II.—For Temperatures Above 60° F.</span></p> - - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <th>Per cent<br />of<br />Alcohol<br />by<br />Volume.</th> - <th>Number of<br />F. Degrees<br />Requiring<br /><span class="smcap">Subtraction</span><br />of one to<br />Percentage.</th> - <th></th> - <th>Per cent<br />of<br />Alcohol<br />by<br />Volume.</th> - <th>Number of<br />F. Degrees<br />Requiring<br /><span class="smcap">Subtraction</span><br />of one to<br />Percentage.</th> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">21</td> - <td class="tdli">5·85</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">61</td> - <td class="tdli">5·175</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">22</td> - <td class="tdli">5·625</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">62</td> - <td class="tdli">5·175</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">23</td> - <td class="tdli">5·4</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">63</td> - <td class="tdli">5·175</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">24</td> - <td class="tdli">5·175</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">64</td> - <td class="tdli">5·175</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">25</td> - <td class="tdli">4·95</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">65</td> - <td class="tdli">5·175</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">26</td> - <td class="tdli">4·95</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">66</td> - <td class="tdli">5·4</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">27</td> - <td class="tdli">4·725</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">67</td> - <td class="tdli">5·4</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">28</td> - <td class="tdli">4·725</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">68</td> - <td class="tdli">5·4</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">29</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">69</td> - <td class="tdli">5·625</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">30</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">70</td> - <td class="tdli">5·625</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">31</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">71</td> - <td class="tdli">5·625</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">32</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">72</td> - <td class="tdli">5·625</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">33</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">73</td> - <td class="tdli">5·625</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">34</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">74</td> - <td class="tdli">5·625</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">35</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">75</td> - <td class="tdli">5·85</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">36</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">76</td> - <td class="tdli">5·85</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">37</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">77</td> - <td class="tdli">5·85</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">38</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">78</td> - <td class="tdli">5·85</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">39</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">79</td> - <td class="tdli">6·075</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">40</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">80</td> - <td class="tdli">6·075</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">41</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">81</td> - <td class="tdli">6·075</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">42</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">82</td> - <td class="tdli">6·075</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">43</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">83</td> - <td class="tdli">6·3</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">44</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">84</td> - <td class="tdli">6·3</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">45</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">85</td> - <td class="tdli">6·3</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">46</td> - <td class="tdli">4·5</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">86</td> - <td class="tdli">6·525</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">47</td> - <td class="tdli">4·725</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">87</td> - <td class="tdli">6·525</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">48</td> - <td class="tdli">4·725</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">88</td> - <td class="tdli">6·525</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">49</td> - <td class="tdli">4·725</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">89</td> - <td class="tdli">6·75</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">50</td> - <td class="tdli">4·725</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">90</td> - <td class="tdli">6·975</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">51</td> - <td class="tdli">4·725</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">91</td> - <td class="tdli">6·975</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">52</td> - <td class="tdli">4·725</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">92</td> - <td class="tdli">7·425</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">53</td> - <td class="tdli">4·95</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">93</td> - <td class="tdli">7·425</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">54</td> - <td class="tdli">4·95</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">94</td> - <td class="tdli">7·65</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">55</td> - <td class="tdli">4·95</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">95</td> - <td class="tdli">7·65</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">56</td> - <td class="tdli">5·175</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">96</td> - <td class="tdli">8·1</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">57</td> - <td class="tdli">5·175</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">97</td> - <td class="tdli">8·1</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">58</td> - <td class="tdli">5·175</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">98</td> - <td class="tdli">8·325</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">59</td> - <td class="tdli">5·175</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">99</td> - <td class="tdli">9·45</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">60</td> - <td class="tdli">5·175</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdli">100</td> - <td class="tdli">9.9</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Explanation.</span>—In this case, the same calculation is performed as directed -under Table I., except that the correction is to be <em>deducted</em> instead of added.</p> -</div> - -<p>Aside from the water present in it, commercial alcohol is -never pure, but always contains small quantities, at times -mere traces, of substances having a peculiar, sometimes -pleasant, sometimes disagreeable, but invariably intense odor, -which are known as fusel oils. The variety of fusel oil differs -with the raw material from which the alcohol was made; -there is a potato fusel oil (chemically amyl alcohol), a corn -fusel oil, a beet fusel oil, wine fusel oil (œnanthic ether), etc. -Fusel oils, being themselves odorous substances, exert an influence -on the fragrance of the perfume; hence it is a general -rule in perfumery to use only alcohol free from fusel oil; -that is, such from which the fusel oil has been extracted -as far as possible by means of fresh charcoal. So-called -“Cologne Spirit” of the best quality is, as a rule, practically -free from it.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">72</span></p> - -<p>Strange to say, some essential oils or aromatic substances -in general, develop their finest odors only when the perfumes -are prepared with an alcohol from a certain source. While -the charcoal treatment removes almost all the fusel oil, the -remaining traces suffice to act as odorous substances in the -true sense of the term and to produce with other aromatic -bodies a harmony of the odor which can never be reached by -the use of another variety of alcohol. To give but a single -instance we may state that all the citron odors known in -perfumery develop the finest aroma only when dissolved in -alcohol made from wine and the solution is then distilled. -The world-renowned eau de Cologne is made in this way; the -other aromatic substances contained in it are added to the -distillate from the spirit of wine and the citron oils; any cologne -made in another manner or with another alcohol has a less -fine odor. While the citron odors require true spirit of wine -for the development of their full aroma, other scents require -beet or corn alcohol to bring out their best odor. Jasmine, -tuberose, orange flowers, violet, etc., and all animal odors -(ambergris, musk, and civet) belong to the latter class. For -this remarkable and to the perfumer most important fact we -know no other explanation than that traces of fusel oils present -even in rectified alcohol take part in the general impression -made on the olfactory nerves, acting as true aromatic -substances.</p> - -<p>Cologne spirit is expensive, but this should not be a reason -for accepting a cheaper grade, with which it would be absolutely -impossible to make really fine perfumes.</p> - -<p>Alcohol is also generally used for the direct extraction of -odorous substances from plants, as will be seen in the description -of the processes employed in the preparation of the so-called -essences or extracts. For these purposes, too, the best -cologne spirit only should be used, that is, alcohol which has -been freed from fusel oil and redistilled, for in no other way<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">73</span> -can the aromatic substances be obtained in the greatest possible -purity. And this is indispensable for the preparation of -really fine perfumes, for we do not hesitate to say that -French and English perfumes have acquired their deserved -reputation mainly through the great care exercised in the selection -of their raw materials, and especially of the alcohol -used for extraction.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Alloxan.</span></h4> - -<p>This preparation, which is used in making a fine skin cosmetic, -is manufactured in chemical laboratories from uric acid -heated with nitric acid. Alloxan is a crystalline colorless -body which has the property of gradually producing a red -tint on the skin and finds employment for this reason.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Ammonia.</span></h4> - -<p>Ammonia is a gas formed by the decomposition of nitrogenous -substances, but chiefly obtained, on a large scale, -from the so-called “gas liquor” of gas works. By itself it -develops a very disagreeable odor and stimulates the lachrymal -glands to secretion—a fact which can be verified in -any stable. A solution of the gas (water of ammonia; liquor -ammoniæ) possesses the same properties. In perfumery ammonia -is never used alone, but only in combination with -other odors, namely, in the manufacture of smelling salts -(French: sels volatils; German: Riechsalze), which are much -in favor in England and in this country. For the purposes -of the perfumer, the greater part of the commercial ammonia -is unsuitable owing to its tarry odor. Pure ammonia is best -prepared by heating equal parts of quicklime and powdered -sal-ammoniac in a retort, and conducting the generated gas -into water which dissolves it with avidity, one quart of water -dissolving more than seven hundred quarts of ammonia gas.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">74</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Carbonate of Ammonia</span>,</h4> - -<p>a combination of ammonia with carbonic acid, occurs in commerce -in large transparent lumps, often covered with a white -dust of bicarbonate of ammonia, which in the air continually -develop ammonia and therefore always smell of it. This commercial -product is, as a rule, sufficiently pure to be used in -perfumery; as to its application the same remarks apply as -were made under the head of ammonia.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Oil of Bitter Almonds (Oleum Amygdalæ amaræ).</span></h4> - -<p>This is made from bitter almonds, previously deprived of -fatty oil by pressure, which are mixed with an equal weight of -water and set in a warm place. The amygdalin undergoes decomposition -into sugar, hydrogen cyanide, and benzoyl hydride -or oil of bitter almonds. After one or two days the mass -is distilled; the distillate being a colorless liquid, containing, -besides oil of bitter almonds, hydrogen cyanide or prussic -acid, one of the most virulent poisons, from which it must be -freed. This is done by shaking the liquid repeatedly with -dilute solution of potassa, followed by agitation with water. -Pure oil of bitter almonds is not poisonous, but has a very -strong narcotic odor of bitter almonds, which, however, becomes -most marked when largely diluted with water.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Benzoic Acid (Acidum benzoicum).</span></h4> - -<p>This acid, contained in benzoin, is made also synthetically -from other materials, in chemical laboratories. When -pure it forms needle-shaped crystals having a silky gloss; -they have a peculiar acrid taste, but no odor. Synthetic -benzoic acid is worthless to the perfumer; in his art he can -use only a benzoic acid made from gum benzoin by sublimation, -because it contains a very aromatic essential oil for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">75</span> -which the acid is merely the vehicle and which can also be -employed alone.</p> - -<p>As this sublimed benzoic acid is often adulterated with -the artificial, we advise the manufacturer of perfumery to make -his own benzoic acid according to the following directions.</p> - - -<p class="center"><i>The Manufacture of Sublimed Benzoic Acid.</i></p> - -<div class="figright"> -<img src="images/i_075.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 3.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>About four pounds of benzoin B of best quality is broken -into small pieces and placed in a small copper boiler K (Fig. -3); over its entire surface is pasted white blotting paper L, -and to this is pasted a cone of strong paper -which must surround the edge of the -boiler. The cone ends above in a paper -tube R, about five feet long and an inch -wide. The copper boiler is placed in a -large clay pot T (a flower pot) and surrounded -on all sides with fine sand. The -clay pot is heated from without by a charcoal -fire. After the pot has remained about -half an hour on the fire, the latter is fanned -to its utmost and kept at this point for thirty minutes. The -heat volatilizes the benzoic acid, the above-mentioned essential -oil, and some tarry substances of a brown color. The -latter are arrested by the filter paper, while the benzoic acid -is deposited on the cone and in the tube, in the form of delicate -glossy needles which are very fragrant owing to the -essential oil. The largest yield of benzoic acid is obtained -when the temperature is raised very gradually, until finally -nothing remains in the copper boiler but a brown, almost carbonized -mass of a blistered appearance.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Borax (Sodii Boras)</span></h4> - -<p>is used in some preparations. Borax forms colorless crystals -which slightly effloresce in dry air and hence must be pre<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">76</span>served -in tightly closed vessels. Reddish tinted crystals are -contaminated with oxide of iron and should be rejected.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Permanganate of Potassium (Potassi Permanganas)</span></h4> - -<p>is a salt formed by fusing a mixture of manganese dioxide, -potassa, and potassium chlorate, extracting the product with -water, and evaporating the solution to crystallization; the -salt is obtained in small dark violet, almost black crystals -which dissolve in sixteen parts of water to which they impart -a beautiful violet color. By contact with organic substances, -or others easily oxidized, the solution changes its color into -green and finally is decolorized, precipitating a brown powder. -Owing to this change of color the salt has been called chameleon -mineral. As its preparation requires considerable dexterity, -it is preferable to buy it from reputable houses, rather -than to make it. It is used in the manufacture of mouth -washes and hair dyes. The solution of the salt causes brown -stains on linen and the skin; they can be removed only if the -spots are immediately washed with hydrochloric, oxalic, sulphuric, -or another acid.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Acetic Acid (Acidum Aceticum).</span></h4> - -<p>Much confusion exists in the literature regarding the -strength of acetic acid when merely called by this name. -It is safe to assume that, in each country, the term applies to -the acid officinal in its national pharmacopœia as “Acidum -Aceticum.” Thus the Austrian and German pharmacopœias -understand by it an acid containing 96% of absolute acetic -acid, which is practically identical with what is known as -glacial acetic acid. The latter is, in some pharmacopœias, -distinguished by a special name: acidum aceticum glaciale, -U.S. P.; acide acétique crystallisable, French Pharm.—In the -present work, the author always intended the strong acid of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">77</span> -the Austrian pharmacopœia to be understood when no other -strength was designated. Like alcohol, strong acetic acid dissolves -essential oils and is used in the manufacture of various -toilet vinegars and washes. Acetic acid is made in chemical -laboratories by distillation of acetate of sodium with sulphuric -acid, or more commonly from wood vinegar. The buyer -should always satisfy himself that the product is free from an -empyreumatic odor which clings tenaciously to an insufficiently -purified sample.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Fats.</span></h4> - -<p>Fats find extensive application in perfumery, in the preparation -of the so-called huiles antiques, pomades, and many -other cosmetics. They should be enumerated among the -chemical products used in perfumery because they can never -be employed in their commercial form, but must undergo -some process of purification, which is effected less by mechanical -than by chemical means. Commercial fats usually -contain remnants of the animal or vegetable body from which -they are derived: particles of blood and membranes occur -frequently in animal fats; cell bodies and vegetable albumin -in vegetable fats. Besides these mechanical impurities, fats, -especially if old, sometimes contain small amounts of free -fatty acids which suffice to impart to them the objectionable -odor and taste peculiar to every rancid fat. While some fats, -such as bear’s grease, butter of cacao, oil of sesame, and some -others, remain free from rancidity for a long time, others -undergo this change very rapidly; in fact, we may say that -every fat which shows the slightest odor should be called -rancid, for pure fat is absolutely odorless.</p> - -<p>We shall here briefly describe the process employed in -the fat industry and by perfumers for the purification of fats. -Animal fat, such as lard, suet, bear’s grease, etc., as well as -cocoanut and palm oils, are introduced into a large iron boiler<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">78</span> -containing dilute soda lye (not exceeding one per cent of -caustic soda), and the lye is heated to boiling. In the boiler -is a small pump terminating above in a curved tube having -a rose of a watering-pot at the end. The pump is so arranged -as to raise lye and melted fat at the same time and to return -the fluid into the boiler in a fine spray. After the fat is -melted, the solid matters floating on top are skimmed off with -a perforated spoon, and then the pump is operated for about -fifteen minutes. The contained shreds of membrane and -similar substances are completely dissolved by the soda lye, -the free fatty acids are perfectly combined, and the fat is at -the same time decolorized. After cooling, it floats on the -surface of the lye as a colorless and odorless fluid; it is -ladled off and poured into tall tapering vessels which are -well closed and preserved in cool cellars. Contact with the -air, especially at higher temperatures, causes rancidity of -the fat. For every twenty pounds of fat twenty quarts of -lye are used.</p> - -<p>According to another process the fat is purified by being -heated with alum and table salt; or every twenty-five pounds -of fat, one ounce of alum and two ounces of salt are dissolved -in five gallons of water. The scum is carefully skimmed from -the surface of the melted fat, and, after it has solidified, the -fat is washed with water until the latter escapes perfectly -tasteless and odorless.</p> - -<p>The washing is a very complicated and tedious piece of -work. Operating on a small scale, a slightly inclined marble -slab is taken, upon which a thin stream of water is constantly -falling from a tube arranged above it. The fat is -placed on the slab in small quantities (not over two pounds) -and ground with a muller, like oil colors, under a constant -flow of water. Owing to the expense of hand labor, it is advisable -to use a so-called vertical mill or chaser. This consists -of a level, circular, horizontal marble slab, bearing a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">79</span> -central, easily movable axis with a crosspiece upon which two, -likewise vertical, cylindrical marble plates turn like wheels in -a circle on the horizontal marble plate. The fat is placed on -the latter and continually irrigated with water; behind every -chaser is applied a marble plate with a blade which nearly -touches the chasers and returns the fat displaced laterally, -under the chasers. The axis around which the chasers run -is kept moving by any available power, and the laborer has -nothing to do but to replace the washed fat with crude.</p> - -<p>Liquid fats are purified as follows:</p> - -<p>The oil is intimately mixed with one per cent of sulphuric -acid. The mixture assumes a black color, the vegetable -mucilage present in the oil becoming carbonized. After -several days’ rest the oil becomes clear and floats on the surface -of the sulphuric acid which has assumed a black color -from the presence of finely divided carbon. The oil is decanted -and treated, in the manner above stated for solid fats, -with caustic soda lye. Heating can be dispensed with if the -pumping is continued for a longer time.</p> - -<p>Benzoin and benzoic acid have the property of counteracting -the tendency of fats to become rancid; it is advisable, -therefore, to mix intimately with the completely washed fat -a small amount of benzoic acid, at most one-one-thousandth -part by weight.</p> - -<p>The best way of preserving fats is by salicylic acid. This -is added to solid fats while they are in a melted state; if oils, -the acid is poured in and the bottle vigorously shaken. If -the oil is in casks, a small bag filled with salicylic acid is hung -into it from the bung-hole. The acid dissolves in the oil and -is disseminated through it and thus effects its preservation. -One-one-thousandth part by weight of the fat or oil is said -to be more than sufficient to keep it perfectly fresh for -years.</p> - -<p>Fats differ largely in their physical properties—for in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">80</span>stance, -in their appearance, melting-point, firmness, etc. As -we shall return to this subject in connection with the manufacture -of some perfumes, it is enough here to state briefly -that by the addition of spermaceti, wax, paraffin, etc., fats are -made more transparent and firmer—a matter of importance -for some cosmetic preparations.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Chinese Gelatin.</span></h4> - -<p>This substance, derived from several algæ, species of -Eucheuma, indigenous to the Chinese sea, and identical with -Japanese agar-agar, on being boiled with two hundred parts -of water has the property of forming a colorless solution -which solidifies on cooling. Owing to this property the addition -of a small quantity of Chinese gelatin (0·1-0·2%) is an -excellent means for imparting to certain pomades and ointments -great transparency and firmness.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Fruit Ethers</span></h4> - -<p>are liquids which possess an agreeable, refreshing odor resembling -that of some fruits. For this reason they are used -in confectionery, in the manufacture of liqueurs, and also in -many ways in perfumery. Chemically, fruit ethers are combinations -of an organic acid—acetic, butyric, valerianic, etc.—with -a so-called alcohol radicle such as ethyl and amyl. -Their manufacture is connected with many difficulties and is -but rarely attempted by perfumers, especially as these products -are made a specialty in some chemical laboratories and -are furnished at very low prices and of excellent quality. In -perfumery the following fruit ethers are particularly employed.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Acetic Ether</span>,</h4> - -<p>prepared by the distillation of acetate of sodium with alcohol -and sulphuric acid, is a colorless liquid having an odor of fermenting -apple juice, with a boiling-point at 74° C. (155° F.).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">81</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Pine-apple Ether</span></h4> - -<p>(ether or huile d’ananas) is made by the saponification of -butter with solution of potassa, distillation of the soap with -alcohol and sulphuric acid, and rectification of the distillate. -It is an inflammable liquid with an intense odor of pine-apple; -its boiling-point is 119° C. (246° F.). It is not generally used -pure, as its odor needs some correction. This is accomplished -by the addition of a little valerianate of amyl, and chloroform. -Also in other ways.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Apple Ether</span>,</h4> - -<p>prepared by distillation from valerianate of sodium with alcohol -and sulphuric acid, and the subsequent addition of certain -correctives (see below).</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Pear Ether</span>,</h4> - -<p>also called pear oil, chiefly valerianate of amyl oxide, can be -obtained in large quantities from a by-product in the manufacture -of potato spirit, namely, amyl alcohol, which is carefully -heated in a still with bichromate of potassium and sulphuric -acid. The product thus obtained has a very pleasant -odor of fine pears and boils at 196° C. (385° F.). But the commercial -“pear-essence” is a more complex body (see following -table).</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Nitrous Ether</span></h4> - -<p>is a very volatile liquid boiling at 16° C. (61° F.), which is -obtained by distillation of strong alcohol with concentrated -nitric acid and rectification of the distillate; it is less used in -perfumery than the other fruit ethers.</p> - -<p>Fruit ethers, owing to their low price and great strength, -are frequently employed in the manufacture of cheap perfumery, -in place of essential oils, but more largely for scenting -soap.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">82</span></p> - -<p>The so-called raspberry and strawberry ethers consist of -mixtures of acetic, pine-apple, apple, and other ethers (see -following table), which, combined in certain proportions, -really manifest an odor nearly akin to those of the fruits -after which they are named.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Fruit Ethers (Fruit Essences).</span></h4> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Table Showing the Ingredients Usually Employed for Preparing -Artificial Fruit Ethers (Fruit Essences).</span></p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">A = Peach.</td> - <td align="left">I = Apple.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">B = Apricot.</td> - <td align="left">J = Grape.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">C = Plum.</td> - <td align="left">K = Gooseberry.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">D = Cherry.</td> - <td align="left">L = Raspberry.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">E = Black Cherry. </td> - <td align="left">M = Strawberry.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">F = Lemon.</td> - <td align="left">N = Melon.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">G = Pear.</td> - <td align="left">O = Pine-apple.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td colspan="2">H = Orange.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<div class="center small"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <th class="thcbr" colspan="2"></th> - <th class="thcbr">A</th> - <th class="thcbr">B</th> - <th class="thcbr">C</th> - <th class="thcbr">D</th> - <th class="thcbr">E</th> - <th class="thcbr">F</th> - <th class="thcbr">G</th> - <th class="thcbr">H</th> <th class="thcbr">I</th> - <th class="thcbr">J</th> - <th class="thcbr">K</th> - <th class="thcbr">L</th> - <th class="thcbr">M</th> - <th class="thcbr">N</th> - <th class="thcbr">O</th> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr" colspan="2">Glycerin</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> - <td class="tdcbr">4</td> - <td class="tdcbr">8</td> - <td class="tdcbr">3</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> - <td class="tdcbr">10</td> - <td class="tdcbr">10</td> <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">2</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr" colspan="2">Chloroform</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">2</td> <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr" colspan="2">Nitrous ether</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> <td class="tdcbr">2</td> - <td class="tdcbr">2</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">2</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr" colspan="2">Aldehyde</td> - <td class="tdcbr">2</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">2</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">2</td> <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr" colspan="2">Acetate of ethyl</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> - <td class="tdcbr">10</td> - <td class="tdcbr">10</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">2</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr" colspan="2">Formate of ethyl</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> - <td class="tdcbr">4</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr" colspan="2">Butyrate of ethyl</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> - <td class="tdcbr">10</td> - <td class="tdcbr">2</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr" colspan="2">Valerianate of ethyl</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr" colspan="2">Benzoate of ethyl</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">10</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr" colspan="2">Œnanthate of ethyl</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">4</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">2</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr" colspan="2">Salicylate of methyl</td> - <td class="tdcbr">2</td> - <td class="tdcbr">2</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">10</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr" colspan="2">Sebacic acid</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">10</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">3</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">10</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr" colspan="2">Acetate of amyl</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">10</td> <td class="tdcbr">10</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">2</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr" colspan="2">Butyrate of amyl</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">10</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr" colspan="2">Valerianate of amyl</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr" colspan="2">Essence of orange</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">10</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">10</td> <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">5</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr" rowspan="4">Alcohol,<br />solutions<br />saturated in<br />the cold of</td> -<td class="tdlbr">Tartaric acid</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Oxalic acid</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">3</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Succinic acid</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">2</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Benzoic acid</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> - <td class="tdcbr">..</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<h4><span class="smcap">Glycerin.</span></h4> - -<p>This substance, which may be called a true cosmetic in -itself, as it possesses marked solvent power for cutaneous -coloring matters and at the same time imparts to the skin -delicacy and flexibility, is at present to be had commercially -in great purity. Pure glycerin is a brilliant, colorless, and -odorless substance of the consistence of a thick syrup, which -mixes with water and alcohol in all proportions and has a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">83</span> -slightly warm but very sweet taste. It readily absorbs aromatic -substances and is used in many valued toilet articles in -combination with fats and perfumes. Recently we have succeeded -in using glycerin most successfully for the extraction -of aromatic substances.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Oil of Mirbane</span>,</h4> - -<p>also called artificial oil of bitter almonds, nitrobenzol, and -essence of mirbane. This substance, which is now largely -used in perfumery and soap manufacture, is obtained by the -action of fuming nitric acid on benzol. The mixture becomes -hot and emits masses of brown vapors, and there is formed a -yellow oily body which is washed with water and soda solution -until the washings escape colorless. Pure nitrobenzol is -not soluble in water, but in alcohol or ether, boils at 213° C. -(415° F.), and congeals at-5 to 6° C. (21-23° F.). Its spec. -grav. is 1·2 or a little over. Any oil of mirbane having a -lower specific gravity than 1·2 at 15° C. (59° F.) is spurious, -most likely nitrotoluol. Its odor greatly resembles that of -oil of bitter almonds, but can be clearly differentiated from -it on comparison. Care must be taken in inhaling the vapor -when undiluted, as it is poisonous. By distillation nitrobenzol -can be obtained quite colorless, and in this form is often -used for the adulteration of genuine oil of bitter almonds. -This adulteration, however, can be easily demonstrated by -heating for a short time with an alcoholic solution of a caustic -alkali which separates from nitrobenzol a brown resinous substance, -while true oil of bitter almonds loses its odor and -changes into benzoic acid which unites with the alkali.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Paraffin.</span></h4> - -<p>This substance is one of the products of the distillation of -petroleum, coal, peat, and other carbonaceous sources. It is -a crystalline, brittle body, closely resembling wax in appear<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">84</span>ance -and melting between 51 and 60° C. (124 and 140° F.). Paraffin, -which is now made on a large scale for the manufacture -of candles, is very useful in perfumery as a partial substitute -for the much more expensive wax or spermaceti, over which -it has the advantage, besides its cheapness, that it imparts to -the articles great transparency—a quality which is valued -highly in fine perfumeries. The addition of some paraffin to -pomades renders them more consistent and counteracts their -tendency to become rancid. Distilled paraffin always has a -crystalline form, differing from the paraffin-like residues left -after the distillation of petroleum (so-called vaselins, etc., see -below) which are always amorphous.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Pyrogallic Acid</span></h4> - -<p>appears in commerce as a white crystalline powder, made by -heating gallic acid to 200-210° C. (392-410° F.). With iron -salts, pyrogallic acid forms bluish-black combinations and precipitates -the metal from silver solutions as a velvety-black -powder. On account of these properties pyrogallic acid is -used in perfumery as a constituent of some hair dyes.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Sulphide of Potassium</span>,</h4> - -<p>liver of sulphur, hepar sulphuris, potassii sulphuretum, the -pentasulphide of potassium, is obtained by fusing together -potash and sulphur, in the shape of a leather-brown mass -which is soluble in water and on exposure to the air is gradually -decomposed with the development of the offensive sulphuretted -hydrogen gas; hence it should be preserved in well-closed -vessels. An aqueous solution of this substance forms -with lead or silver salts a black precipitate of sulphide of -lead or silver, and is used for some hair dyes.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Starch Flour</span></h4> - -<p>(amylum) is prepared from various vegetables such as potatoes, -rice, arrowroot, sago, etc., and when pure appears as an<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">85</span> -insoluble white powder which the microscope shows to be -grains consisting of many superimposed layers. In commerce -the price of the different varieties of starch fluctuates greatly; -in perfumery well-cleansed potato starch can very well be -used for dusting powders, and the so-called poudre de riz; in -this country, corn starch is preferable.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Vanillin</span>,</h4> - -<p>that is, the body to which vanilla owes its fragrance, is now -made artificially and can be used in place of vanilla for soaps -and pomades.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Vaselin.</span></h4> - -<p>In the distillation of petroleum there remain in the still as -a residue large quantities of a substance which when purified -is colorless and, according to the nature of the petroleum, at -ordinary temperatures has either the consistence of lard, -melting under the heat of the hand, or forms an oily liquid. -In perfumery vaselin can be used like fat or oil, over which -it has the advantage in that it always remains odorless and -free from acid; hence it is very appropriate for the manufacture -of pomades. The market affords numerous varieties of -this substance, under different names: vaselin (oil and solid), -albolene (oil and solid), cosmolin, etc., etc.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Spermaceti</span></h4> - -<p>is a substance found in the skull cavities of several whales -and dolphins. In its properties it stands midway between -beeswax, paraffin, and firm fats. In the living animal spermaceti -is fluid, but after its death it congeals to a white crystalline -mass of a fatty lustre, which melts at 40° C. (104° F.), -and is frequently used for fine candles as well as for other -articles.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Wax</span></h4> - -<p>(Cera alba), the well-known product of the bee; in perfumery -only bleached (white) wax is employed. In recent<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">86</span> -years Japanese wax has appeared in commerce; this is of -vegetable origin, but in its properties resembles beeswax.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Subnitrate of Bismuth</span>,</h4> - -<p>bismuth white, pearl white, bismuthi subnitras, blanc de bismuth, -blanc de perles, the basic nitrate of bismuth, the chief -ingredient of many skin cosmetics, is prepared by dissolving -metallic bismuth in moderately strong nitric acid, and pouring -the solution into a large quantity of water, whereupon the -subnitrate is precipitated.</p> - -<p>The precipitated powder is collected on a funnel and -washed with pure water until the wash water no longer -changes blue tincture of litmus to red. The bismuth white is -dried and preserved in well-closed vessels, since in the air it -gradually assumes a yellowish color; for any sulphuretted -hydrogen present in the air is greedily absorbed by this salt, -and the resulting combination with sulphur has a black color.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Oxide of Tin</span></h4> - -<p>is obtained by treating metallic tin with fuming nitric acid, -adding the solution to a large quantity of water, and washing -the product, which forms a white insoluble powder used cosmetically -for polishing the finger nails.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Besides the chemical products here enumerated, some -others find application in perfumery; we shall describe their -properties in connection with the articles into which they -enter. In this connection mention may be made of the fact -that more and more aromatic substances are now made artificially -which were formerly obtained with difficulty from -plants. Besides vanillin mentioned above, cumarin, oil of -wintergreen, and some other products are prepared artificially. -Heliotropin and nerolin are artificially prepared substances, -possessing an odor resembling that of heliotrope and -oil of neroli, respectively, but not identical chemically with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">87</span> -the natural odorous substance. Artificial musk (Baur’s), is -playing a rôle at present, but is not identical with the natural -substance.</p> - - -<h3>C. The Colors used in Perfumery.</h3> - -<p>Some articles are colored intentionally; this remark applies -particularly to some soaps which not rarely are stained to correspond -to the color of the flower whose odor they bear; for instance, -violet soap. Some articles again are used only on -account of their color; for instance, paints, hair and whisker -dyes. As we shall discuss this subject at greater length in -connection with these toilet articles, we merely state here -that nowadays every manufacturer can choose between a -large number of dyes of any color, all of which are innoxious; -hence no perfumer should under any circumstances use poisonous -colors. This is a matter of importance with substances -intended for immediate contact with the human body -such as paints, lip salves, soaps, etc. All of these colors will -be described hereafter.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a><br /> - -<small>THE EXTRACTION OF ODORS.</small></h2> - - -<p>Excepting the articles made in Turkey and India (especially -oil of rose), most aromatic substances are manufactured -in southern France and the adjoining regions of Italy, while -a few (oils of peppermint and lavender) are produced in England; -a few also (oils of peppermint, spearmint, wintergreen, -sassafras, etc.) in the United States. However, as we have -stated above, it is possible to cultivate some plants from -which odors are extracted in the warm sections of this country, -and to obtain the most expensive perfumes from them. -Among these plants our experience leads us to suggest vio<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">88</span>lets, -roses, reseda, lavender, mints, syringa, lilac, and several -others to which the climate is adapted.</p> - -<p>The methods by which the odors can be extracted from -the plants differ according to the physical properties of the -raw material and the chemical composition of the aromatic -substance. We shall here briefly describe the methods thus -far known, and at the same time add our own experience in -this most important part of the art of perfumery. The aromatic -substances are obtained by pressure, by distillation, by -maceration (infusion), by absorption (enfleurage) through air -or through carbonic acid, and by extraction.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Pressure.</span></h3> - -<p>Certain aromatic substances that occur in large amounts -in some parts of plants, are best obtained by pressure. The -rinds of certain fruits contain an essential oil in considerable -quantities inclosed in receptacles easily distinguished under -the microscope. When these vegetable substances are subjected -to strong pressure, the oil receptacles burst and the -essential oil escapes. The force is usually applied through a -screw press with a stout iron spindle; the vegetable substances -being inclosed in strong linen or horse-hair cloths, -placed between iron plates, and subjected to a gradually increasing -pressure. Comparative experiments have shown us -that even with the most powerful presses a considerable, -amount of oil is lost owing to the fact that a large number of -oil receptacles remain intact. For this reason, when oil is to -be extracted by pressure, a hydraulic press is preferable, as -it develops greater power than any other press. In the hydraulic -presses used for this purpose the piston fits exactly -into a hollow iron cylinder with sieve-like openings in its circumference. -The vegetable substances are filled into this -cylinder; when the pressure is applied, the fluids escape<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">89</span> -through the perforations, and the residue forms a compact -woody cake which is then free from oil.</p> - -<p>Besides the essential oil, watery fluid is expressed, the -whole appearing as a milky liquid, owing to the admixture of -vegetable fibres, mucilage, etc. It is collected in a tall glass -cylinder which is set in a place free from any vibration. -After remaining at rest for several hours the liquid separates -into two layers, the lower being watery and mixed with -mucilage, that floating on top being almost pure oil. The -latter is separated, and finally purified by filtration through a -double paper cone in a funnel covered with a glass plate.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_089.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 4.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>It is best to separate the water and oil in a regular separatory -funnel, or in a simple apparatus illustrated in Fig. 4. -It is made by cutting the bottom from a tall flask, and fitting -into the neck by means of a cork a glass tube having a diameter -of one-fourth to one-half inch. A rubber tube with stop-cock -is fastened to the glass tube. By careful opening of the -stop-cock, the watery fluid can be drained off to the last drop.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">90</span></p> - -<p>To the perfumer this method is of little importance, since -it is applicable only to a few substances which, moreover, -give cheap odors. Still, the possession of a hydraulic press is -advisable to every manufacturer who works on a large scale, -as it is useful also in the preparation of several fixed oils frequently -employed in perfumery, for instance, oils of almonds, -nuts, etc.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_090.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 5.</span></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_090a.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 6.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>Fixed oils are best extracted in so-called drop presses, the -material having first been comminuted between rollers. -These are arranged as shown in section in Fig. 5, and in -ground plan in Fig. 6. The apparatus consists of two smooth -or slightly grooved iron cylinders A and B, respectively four -feet and one foot in diameter, which can be approximated or -separated by means of set screws. The material is placed -into the trough F containing a feeding roller moved by the -belt P. The scrapers FF, pressed against the cylinders by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">91</span> -means of weighted levers, free the rollers from adhering -pieces.</p> - -<p>The drop presses Figs. 7 and 8 consist of a hydraulic press -with cylinders A and piston B; the troughs E are movable by -means of rings between two vertical columns and every trough -has a circular gutter <i>d</i> for the reception of the expressed oil. -The iron pots G have double walls, the inner of which has a -series of openings at its upper part; these pots are filled with -the bruised material to be pressed and after this has been -covered with a plate of horse-hair tissue are set in the press.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_091.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 7. <span class="gap35"> Fig. 8.</span></span></div> -</div> - -<p>As the piston rises, the troughs E sink into the pots, the -escaping oil collects in the gutters <i>d</i> and thence passes into a -receptacle. After pressing, the piston is allowed to sink back, -the pots G are drawn aside (Fig. 8) to tabular surfaces, and -other pots are substituted for the exhausted ones. These -drop presses are suitable for the extraction of all fixed oils -and also volatile oils present in orange and lemon peel, etc.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">92</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Distillation.</span></h3> - -<p>Many odors or essential oils possess the remarkable property -that their vapors pass so largely with that of boiling -water that they can be extracted in this way (by “distillation”) -from vegetable substances, though the essential oils -have a boiling-point far above that of water. Distillation can -be employed for a large number of substances; for instance, -the essential oils present in cumin, anise, lavender, fennel, -mace, nutmeg, etc., are extracted exclusively in this manner.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_092.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 9.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>For the extraction of odors in this way, according to the -quantities of material to be worked, different apparatuses are -used, some of the most important of which will be here described.</p> - -<p>For manufacturers who run without steam and are obliged -to use a naked flame, the adjoining apparatus (Fig. 9) will be -advantageous.</p> - -<p>It consists of a copper boiler A, the still, set in a brick -furnace. The latter is so constructed that the incandescent -gases strike not only the curved bottom of the still, but also -its sides through the flues Z left in the brickwork. The still, -whose upper part projects from the furnace, has an opening O<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">93</span> -on the left side, closed air-tight with a screw, which serves -for refilling with water during distillation when necessary. -To the margin of the still is fitted steam-tight the helm H, -made of copper or tinned iron, having a prolongation, the -tube R. The latter is joined to the conical projection <i>v</i> -which terminates in the worm K. In some apparatuses this -projection is omitted and the tube immediately joins the -worm. The latter is made of tinned iron and, as the cut -shows, is arranged in coils and supported by props <i>t</i> in the -wooden or metal condenser F. The condenser bears above a -short bent tube <i>b</i>, and below, immediately over the bottom, -an elbow tube <i>e</i>, long enough to reach above the edge of the -condenser, as indicated in the cut.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<img src="images/i_093.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 10.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>The vegetable substances to be distilled can be put immediately -into the still and covered with water; but in this -case it is advisable to use a stirrer which must be kept moving -until the water boils, otherwise -the material might burn -at the bottom. But this accident -can also be prevented by -applying a perforated false -bottom to the still above the -flues, or by inclosing the material -in a wire-sieve basket C.</p> - -<p>In place of the basket C -the apparatus can also be provided -with an additional vessel -containing the material to -be distilled. In the still A -(Fig. 10) the water is brought -to boiling, the steam rises through the second still B in which -the material is spread on a perforated bottom. The steam -laden with the vapors of the essential oil passes through the -tube R into the condenser.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">94</span></p> -<div class="figleft"> -<img src="images/i_094.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 11.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>It is very advantageous, and in large establishments altogether -indispensable, to use steam in the distillation of essential -oils. Fig. 11 represents the arrangement of such an apparatus. -The still B (which in this case may be made of -stout tinned iron) stands free and is provided with a wooden -jacket M for the purpose of retaining the heat. Immediately -above the curved bottom is a -perforated plate on which the -material rests. The tube D -which enters the bottom of the -still is connected with the boiler -which furnishes steam at moderate -tension. H is the faucet -for the admission of steam; H. -is the faucet by which the water -escapes from the still at the -end of the operation. After the -still is filled with the material, -the faucet H is opened gradually -and a continuous stream of steam is allowed to pass -through the still until the operation is finished.</p> - -<p>When working with an open fire, as soon as vapors appear -at the lower end of the worm (Fig. 9), cold water is admitted -through the tube <i>ne</i>; as the cold water abstracts heat from -the vapors and condenses them, it becomes warm, rises to -the surface, and escapes through <i>b</i>, so that the worm is continually -surrounded with cold water. If for any reason the -saving of cold water is an object, its flow may be so regulated -that the vapors are just condensed, the warm distillate being -allowed to cool in the air. When working with steam, the -cold water must be admitted the moment the steam-cock is -opened, and the flow of cold water should be ample during -the distillation, which in this case is much shorter.</p> - -<p>The large apparatuses here described are generally used,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">95</span> -especially for the extraction from vegetable substances of -odors present in considerable quantity, for instance, mace, -nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, etc., or from bulky material as the -various flowers. For very expensive odors, smaller apparatuses -are often employed, the construction of which resembles that -of the ones described. For this purpose small glass apparatuses -are very suitable; they are illustrated in Fig. 12.</p> - -<p>The still, a retort A, consists of a spherical vessel with a -bottle neck <i>t</i> which is either closed with a cork or carries a -thermometer or glass tube, and with a lateral tube, the neck -of the retort, connected with the adapter <i>r</i>. The latter passes -into the condenser C. At the lower end of R is the bent -adapter <i>v</i> under which is placed the receptacle for the distillate. -The tube C is closed with corks, at its lower end is -the ascending tube <i>h</i>, and at its upper end the descending tube -<i>g</i>. During the distillation cold water flows in through <i>h</i> -which cools the tube <i>r</i> and escapes at <i>g</i>. The tube C, as will -be readily understood, acts like the condenser in the larger -apparatuses above described. In order to prevent the breaking -of the retort, it is not heated over a flame, but is set in a tin -vessel B filled with water. The comminuted vegetable material -is inserted with water through the up-turned neck of the -retort into the latter; the vessel B is filled with water which -is raised to the boiling-point.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_095.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 12.</span></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">96</span></p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<img src="images/i_096a.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 13.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>During distillation we obtain at the lower end of the condenser -pure water and essential oil. When larger quantities -are to be distilled it is advisable to use a Florentine flask as -a receptacle for the separation of the oil and water (Fig. 13). -It consists of a glass bottle from the bottom -of which ascends a tube curved above; the -latter rises high enough to bring the curvature -slightly below the neck of the flask. -During the distillation the flask becomes -filled with water W, on which floats a layer -of oil O; the excess of water escapes -through <i>a</i> at <i>d</i> until the flask finally contains -more oil and very little water.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<img src="images/i_096b.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 14.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>When producing essential oils on a large scale, instead of -the frail Florentine flasks it is advisable to use separators, the -construction of which is illustrated in Fig. 14. They consist -of glass cylinders, conical above and below, supported on a -suitable frame. The water accumulating -under the oil is allowed to escape by opening -the stop-cock; when the first separator -is filled with oil, the succeeding distillate -passes through the horizontal tube into the -next separator, etc.</p> - -<p>When the distillation is carried on in an -ordinary still, we obtain, besides the essential -oil, a considerable quantity of aromatic -water, that is, a solution of the oil in water.</p> - -<p>An apparatus which obviates the losses -caused thereby is that of Schimmel described -below, which is well adapted to -the manufacture on a large scale. The apparatus is patented.</p> - -<p>The nearly spherical still D (Fig. 15) is surrounded by a -jacket M; the inlet steam tube R is connected with a branch -<i>r</i> which enters the interior of the still as a spiral tube with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">97</span> -numerous perforations, while R opens into the space M. -When <i>r</i> is opened, distillation takes place by direct steam; -when R is opened, by indirect steam; when both faucets are -opened, the still is heated at the same time with direct and -indirect steam.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_097.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 15.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>The vapors rising from the still D pass through the helm -C and the tube A into the worm K; the fluid condensed in -the latter drops into the tin Florentine flask F, the aromatic -water flowing from the latter passes back into the still D -through the Welter funnel T and is distilled over again, so -that the entire distillation can be effected with very little -water, and it is continued until the water escaping from the -Florentine flask is freed from oil and odorless.</p> - -<p>When working with superheated steam, it is necessary to -set under the funnel tube T a vessel twice the size of the -Florentine flask, which is provided with a stop-cock above -and below. The lower cock is closed, the vessel is allowed to -fill with water from F, then the upper cock is closed, the con<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">98</span>tents -being allowed to escape into D by opening, when the -cocks are again reversed.</p> - -<p>The use of superheated steam is important especially with -material which gives up the contained oil with difficulty, such -as woods.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<img src="images/i_098.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 16.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>For freeing the essential oil completely from water we use -a so-called separating funnel (Fig. -16). This consists of a glass funnel -T resting on a suitable support G, -which is closed above with a glass -plate ground to fit, drawn out below -into a fine point S, and provided -with a glass stop-cock H. The contents -of the Florentine flask are -poured into the funnel which is covered -with the glass plate and allowed -to stand at rest until the layer of -oil O is clearly separated from the -water W. By careful opening of the -stop-cock the water is allowed to escape -and the oil is immediately filled into bottles which are -closed air tight and preserved in a cool and dark place.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Maceration (Infusion).</span></h3> - -<p>Some odors, like those of cassie, rose, reseda, syringa, jasmine, -violets, and many other fragrant blossoms, cannot be -obtained by distillation as completely or as sweet-scented as -by the process of maceration which is in general use among -the large perfumers in southern France. This process is -based on the property of fats to absorb odorous substances -with avidity and to yield them almost entirely to strong alcohol. -According to the fat employed for the maceration of -the flowers—a solid fat like lard or a liquid like olive oil—odorous -products are obtained which are known either as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">99</span> -pomades or as perfumed oils (huiles antiques). By repeatedly -treating fresh flowers with the same fat the manufacturer is -able to perfume the pomade or oil at will, and in the factories -these varying strengths are designated by numbers; the -higher numbers indicating the stronger products.</p> - -<p>The process of maceration is very simple. The fat is put -into porcelain or enamelled iron pots which are heated, in a -shallow vessel filled with water, to 40 or at most 50° C. (104-122° -F.); the flowers are inclosed in small bags of fine linen -and hung into the fat, where they are allowed to remain for -from one-half to two days. At the end of that time the bags -are removed, drained, expressed, refilled with fresh flowers, -and replaced in the fat. This procedure is repeated twelve -to sixteen times or oftener, thus producing pomades or oils -of varying fragrance.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_099.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 17.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>As the odors are much superior when the flowers are only -a short time in contact with the fat, it is better to use an apparatus -for continuous operation (Fig. 17). It consists of a -box K made of tin plate, which is divided into from five to -ten compartments by vertical septa and can be closed water -tight by a lid to be screwed on. The septa have alternate -upper and lower openings. The compartments contain each -a basket of tinned wire filled with the flowers for maceration, -then the lid is closed and the box heated in a water bath to -40 or 50° C. (104-122° F.). The stop-cock H in tube R is -now opened. This admits melted fat or oil from a vessel -above to the first compartment in which it rises through the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">100</span> -basket filled with flowers whose odor it abstracts. The additional -fat coming from above drives it over through the opening -O<sub>2</sub> into compartment 2, where it comes in contact with -fresh flowers, passes through O<sub>3</sub> into the third compartment, -and so on through 4 and 5, until it finally escapes through R<sub>1</sub> -well charged with odor. According to requirements a larger -number of compartments may be employed.</p> - -<p>When all the fat has passed through the apparatus, it is -opened, the basket is removed from compartment 1, the basket -from No. 2 is placed in 1, that from 3 in 2, etc.; basket 1 -is emptied, filled with fresh flowers, and placed in compartment -5, so that every basket gradually passes through all -compartments to No. 1. In this way the fat rapidly absorbs -all the odor.</p> - -<p>The odorous substances are abstracted from the pomades -or huiles antiques by treatment with strong alcohol (90-95%) -which dissolves the essential oils but not the fats. The huiles -antiques with the alcohol are placed in large glass bottles and -frequently shaken. In order to abstract the odors from -pomades, the latter are allowed to congeal and are divided -into small pieces which are inserted into the bottles of alcohol. -A better plan is to fill the pomades into a tin cylinder -with a narrow opening in front and to express the pomades, -by a well-fitting piston, in the shape of a thin thread which -thus presents a large surface to the action of the alcohol, thus -hastening the absorption of the odor. The alcoholic solution -obtained after some weeks is then distilled off at a low temperature. -We shall recur to this hereafter.</p> - -<p>No matter how long the fats are left in contact with alcohol, -they do not yield up to it all the odor, but retain a small -portion of it and hence have a very fragrant smell. They -are, therefore, brought into commerce as perfumed oils or -pomades bearing the name of the odorous substance they -contain: orange flower, reseda pomade or oil, etc.; they are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">101</span> -highly prized and are sometimes used again for the extraction -of the same odor.</p> - -<p>Some odors cannot bear even the slight rise of temperature -necessary for their extraction by the method of maceration -or infusion. For these delicate odors one of the following -methods may be employed.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Absorption or Enfleurage.</span></h3> - -<p>In this method the absorbing power of fat is likewise used -for retaining the odors, but the flowers are treated with the -fat at ordinary temperatures. This procedure which is employed -especially in southern France is carried out as follows. -The fat (lard) is spread to a thickness of about one-quarter -inch on glass plates G one yard long and two feet wide, which -are inserted in wooden frames R and sprinkled with flowers -F (Fig. 18). The frames are superimposed (the cut shows two -of the frames) and left for from one to three days, when fresh -flowers are substituted for the wilted ones, and so on until -the pomade has attained the desired strength.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_101.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 18.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>This procedure is very cumbrous and tedious and therefore -had better be modified thus: In an air-tight box K (Fig. -19) we place a larger number of glass plates <i>g</i> covered with -lard drawn into fine threads by means of a syringe. This box -is connected with a smaller one K<sub>1</sub> which is filled with fresh -flowers and provided with openings below and above, O and -O<sub>1</sub>. The latter, O<sub>1</sub> communicates by a tube with box K, at -whose upper end is a tube <i>e</i> terminating in an exhaust fan so -that the air must pass through the apparatus in the direction<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">102</span> -indicated by the arrows. A small fan V driven by clockwork -will answer. The air drawn from K<sub>1</sub> is laden with odors and -in passing over the fat as shown by the arrows gives them up -completely to the fat. The use of this apparatus has very -important advantages: the absorption is effected rapidly, requires -little power, and the flowers do not come at all into -contact with the fat which therefore can take up nothing but -the odors present in the air.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_102.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 19.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>Instead of charging the fat with odors by either one of -the methods here described, carbonic acid can also be employed -with advantage, by means of the apparatus illustrated in Fig. -20. The large glass vessel G contains pieces of white marble -M upon which hydrochloric acid is poured at intervals -through the funnel tube R. A current of carbonic acid is -thus developed, which passes through a wash bottle W filled -with water, then through the tin vessel B containing fresh -flowers, and finally into a bottle A filled with strong alcohol -and set in cold water, after which it escapes through the tube<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">103</span> -<i>e</i>. The carbonic acid absorbs the aromatic vapors from B -and leaves them in the alcohol which absorbs them. (G, R, -W are made of glass, B of tin.)</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_103.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 20.</span></div> -</div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extraction.</span></h3> - -<p>This method is based on the fact that some volatile liquids -such as ether, chloroform, petroleum ether, or bisulphide of -carbon possess the property of rapidly extracting the aromatic -substances from flowers; when they are evaporated at -a gentle heat they leave the pure odors behind. In our opinion -this process is the best of all for the perfumer and it is to -be regretted that it is not more generally used.</p> - -<p>As a rule we employ either petroleum ether or bisulphide -of carbon (see above, pp. 65, 66) because these products are -cheaper than ether or chloroform.</p> - -<p>The apparatus we use for this purpose is illustrated in -Fig. 21. It consists of a cylinder C made of tinned iron, -which is provided above with a circular gutter R terminating -in a stop-cock <i>h</i> and which can be closed by a lid D bearing -a stop-cock <i>o</i>. A tube <i>b</i> with a stop-cock <i>a</i> enters the bottom -of the cylinder. The latter is filled with the flowers, the volatile -liquid (petroleum ether, bisulphide of carbon, etc.) is -poured over them, the lid is put on, and the gutter R filled -with water, thereby sealing the contents of the vessel hermetically.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">104</span></p> - -<p>After the extraction, which requires about thirty to forty -minutes, stop-cock <i>o</i> is opened first, then stop-cock <i>a</i>, and the -liquid is allowed to escape into the retort of the still (Fig. 12). -If the extraction is to be repeated, the water is allowed to -escape from the gutter through <i>h</i>, the lid is opened, and the -solvent is again poured over the flowers.</p> - -<p>For operation on a larger scale the glass retorts are too -small and should be replaced by tin vessels (Fig. 22) having -the form of a wide-mouthed bottle F; they are closed by a -lid D which is rendered air tight by being clamped upon the -flange of the vessel (R) with iron screws S, a pasteboard -washer being interposed; a curved glass tube connects the -apparatus with the condenser of Fig. 12.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_104.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 21. <span class="gap40"> -Fig. 22.</span></span></div> -</div> - -<p>The solutions of the aromatic substances are evaporated -in these apparatuses at the lowest possible temperature, the -solvent being condensed and used over again. The heat required -is for ether about 36° C. (97° F.), for chloroform about -65° C. (149° F.), for petroleum ether about 56° C. (133° F.), -and for bisulphide of carbon about 45° C. (113° F.). If it is desired -to obtain the aromatic substances pure from an alcoholic -extract of the pomades made by one of the above-described -processes—which is rarely done since these solutions are generally -used as such for perfumes—a heat of 75 to 80 C. -(167 to 176° F.) is required.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">105</span></p> - -<p>Another extraction apparatus illustrated in Fig. 23 is -well adapted to operations on a large scale. Its main parts -are the extractor E and the still B. The former is set in a -vat W continually supplied with cold water. The still B is -surrounded with hot water in the boiler K.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<img src="images/i_105.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 23.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>To start the apparatus the cone C is removed, the vessel -E is filled with the material to -be extracted, and C is replaced. -The faucets H<sub>2</sub> and H<sub>4</sub> are opened, -the solvent is poured into the -still through the latter, when -these faucets are closed and -those marked H and H<sub>1</sub> are -opened.</p> - -<p>The water in K is heated -until the contents of B are in -brisk ebullition; the vapor rises -through RH, is condensed on -entering E and falls in small -drops on the material. This fine -rain of the solvent dissolves the -aromatic substances and flows back into B, where it is again -evaporated, and so on.</p> - -<p>At the end of the extraction the faucets H and H<sub>1</sub> are -closed and H<sub>2</sub>, is opened. The vapors of the solvent pass -through it into a worm where they are condensed; the essential -oil remaining in B is drained off by opening H<sub>3</sub>.</p> - -<p>For still larger operations more perfect apparatuses are -employed, such as those of Seiffert and Vohl. Seiffert’s apparatus -(Fig. 24) consists of a battery of jacketed cylinders; -steam circulates in the space between the cylinders and the -jackets. Each cylinder contains a plate covered with a wire -net on which the flowers to be extracted are placed. All the -cylinders having been filled and closed, the solvent is admitted<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">106</span> -from a container above, through S and <i>a</i> into C<sup>2</sup>; when this -is filled the liquid flows through <i>a</i><sup>2</sup><i>b</i><sup>3</sup><i>c</i><sup>n</sup> into C. The solution -saturated with essential oil leaves the apparatus through <i>d</i><sup>n</sup> -and <i>p</i> and enters a reservoir. The course of the liquid is -aided by the suction of an air-pump acting on <i>p</i>.</p> - -<p>When the reservoir contains an amount of fluid equal to -that in C<sup>n</sup>, <i>d</i><sup>n</sup> is closed, <i>a</i><sup>n</sup> is opened, and C connected with -C<sup>1</sup> through <i>b</i><sup>n</sup> and <i>c</i><sup>1</sup>. That the contents of C<sup>2</sup> are completely -extracted is shown by the fact that the liquid appears colorless -in the glass tube inserted in <i>b</i><sup>2</sup>; <i>a</i><sup>1</sup> and C<sup>2</sup> are closed; <i>a</i><sup>2</sup> -and C<sup>3</sup> are opened, thereby excluding C<sup>2</sup> from the current of -bisulphide of carbon which then flows through C<sup>3</sup>C<sup>n</sup>C<sup>1</sup>. In -order to permit the free flow of the bisulphide of carbon -through S despite the exclusion of C<sup>2</sup>, the faucets <i>a</i><sup>1</sup><i>a</i><sup>2</sup><i>a</i><sup>3</sup><i>a</i><sup>n</sup> -must be two-way cocks; in one position they connect S with <i>b</i>; -in the other they close <i>b</i> and leave the passage through S -open.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_106.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 24.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>In order to collect the bisulphide of carbon present in the -extracted residue in C<sup>2</sup>, faucet <i>g</i><sup>2</sup> is opened and the bisulphide -of carbon allowed to escape through <i>h</i>. The faucet <i>e</i><sup>2</sup> in tube -L on being opened admits compressed air to C<sup>2</sup>, thus hastening -the outflow. If nothing escapes below, faucets <i>f</i><sup>2</sup> and <i>f</i><sup>x</sup> -are opened, steam enters through tube D between jacket and -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">107</span>cylinder; the bisulphide of carbon vapor passes through <i>g</i><sup>2</sup> -and <i>h</i> into the worm. After the expulsion of the bisulphide -of carbon, C<sup>3</sup> is emptied, refilled, connected with C<sup>1</sup>, and bisulphide -of carbon admitted from C<sup>3</sup> in the manner above -described.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_107.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 25.</span></div> -</div> -<p>An extraction apparatus which has been much recommended -of late is the so-called “Excelsior Apparatus” made -by Wegelin and Huebner, Halle a. S., which can be worked -with any desired solvent. The construction of the apparatus -(Figs. 25 and 26) is as follows.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_108.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 26.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>The solvent is admitted to the reservoir R in the lower -part of the condenser B through the tube indicated in the -figure. The material to be extracted having been filled into -the cylinder A through the manhole, the apparatus is closed. -The cold water is admitted to the condenser by opening a -faucet. The three-way cock shown in Fig. 25 is so placed as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">108</span> -to open a communication of the overflow tube with A. The -faucet at the lower end of the reservoir R is now opened sufficiently -and the solvent passes into A from above, and as it -descends takes up more and more oil, flows through the sieve-plate, -and escapes through the tube at the bottom of A -through the three-way cock, the overflow tube, and the drain -tube into the accumulator C. The opening of a faucet now -admits steam to the heating coil, when the solvent evaporates, -leaving the oil or fat behind. It is condensed in B, again<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">109</span> -returns to R, whence it passes once more through the faucet -into the extractor A. The vessel C and the tubes leading to -A and C are surrounded with felt to prevent loss of heat. A -sample taken from the small cock at the foot of A (it has a -small plate in the interior of the tube) will show when the extraction -in A may be looked upon as finished. The solvent -is distilled off or recovered from the residue in A in the following -manner. First the faucet in R is closed. The three-way -cock A is set to establish direct communication between -A and C, thus cutting off the overflow tube. Hence all the -solvent in A flows into C for distillation, while the oil is left -behind. Steam being admitted to the residue, the solvent -rises as vapor through the upper tube from A to B and collects -in a liquid state in R. To drive off the last traces of -the solvent from the fat or oil obtained, steam is blown into -C by opening the valve. Besides the solvent, watery vapor -enters B and forms a layer of water in R under the solvent. -By taking a sample from the test-cock of the reservoir C -which has an internal small plate, the termination of the process -is ascertained. The gauge tube at the reservoir shows<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">110</span> -the level of the solvent and water. The water is drawn off -by opening the faucet at the lower end of the reservoir. A -is emptied through the manhole and by draining the oil from -C through the discharge cock. The tube R is closed by a -light valve so as to prevent evaporation of the solvent. All -the apparatuses work without pressure so that there is no -danger from overstrain.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_109.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 27.</span></div> -</div> - - -<p>The solutions of the essential oils in bisulphide of carbon -are distilled off in the steam still illustrated in Fig. 27; the -steam enters at <i>h</i>, the water of condensation escapes at <i>d</i>, the -liquid to be distilled enters at <i>e</i> from a container at a higher -level. The boiling is kept uniform by the stirring arrangement -<i>hg</i>. After the bisulphide of carbon is distilled off, air is passed -through the oil by the curved tube <i>a</i> which has fine perforations, -so as to evaporate the last traces of the solvent.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_110.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 28.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>In Vohl’s apparatus (Fig. 28), arranged for petroleum -ether, the extraction is effected with the boiling fluid; hence<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">111</span> -this apparatus is better adapted for the cheaper oils than for -the finest oils from flowers. The apparatus consists of two -extractors A A, the accumulator B, and the condenser C. Petroleum -ether is allowed to flow over the substances to be extracted, -by opening the faucets <i>mm</i>, <i>vh</i>, closing <i>ogw</i>E, and -opening <i>o</i>, the course being through <i>ux</i> to B. When B is -two-thirds full, the flow of petroleum ether is cut off, steam -is admitted through <i>y</i> and the contents of B are brought to -the boiling-point. The vapors pass through <i>g</i> and are condensed -in <i>f</i> until the contents of A reach the boiling-point of -the solvent, when the vapors pass through <i>i</i> into C, and after -closing <i>m´</i> the liquid passes through <i>ml</i> into the inner cylinder -of the extraction apparatus and returns through <i>uxx</i>.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<img src="images/i_111.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 29.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>After the contents of A are extracted, <i>m´</i> is opened, <i>m</i> -closed, and steam is admitted through <i>d</i> into the jacket of A; -the vapors of the solvent force the liquid part of the contents -through <i>ux</i> into B. Overfilling of B is prevented by allowing -the vapors of the solvent to escape at the -proper time into the condenser through -<i>p</i> by opening <i>q</i>. Then <i>v</i> is closed, <i>q</i> -opened, and the steam present in A -drawn off by an exhaust applied to <i>p</i>; -as soon as <i>p</i> begins to cool, all the petroleum -ether is distilled off, the steam is -cut off at <i>d</i>, and the extract evacuated -through <i>t</i>. The contents of B are brought -into a still through D and E.</p> - -<p>By employing greater pressure the extraction -can also be effected by what is -called displacement; the material to be -extracted is placed in a stout-walled vessel -S (Fig. 29) which is connected by a -narrow tube at least ten yards long with the vessel F containing -the solvent. Stopcock H is first opened, then stop<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">112</span>-cock -H<sub>1</sub> which is closed as soon as fluid begins to flow from -it. After the liquid has remained in contact with the material -for from thirty to sixty minutes, H<sub>1</sub> is opened very -slowly, the liquid is allowed to escape and is displaced with -water which is made to pass out of F in the same way as the -solvent, until the latter is completely displaced from S.</p> - -<p>After the solvent has been distilled off, the less volatile -essential oil remains in the still almost pure, containing only -traces of wax, vegetable fat or coloring matter which are of -no consequence for our purposes. The last remnants of the -solvent cannot be expelled by distillation, but by forcing -through the essential oil a current of pure air for fifteen or -twenty minutes. The essential oils then are of the purest, -unexceptionable quality.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_112.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 30.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>In the case of delicate oils it is better to use carbonic acid -in place of air for expelling the last traces of the solvent, as -the oxygen may impair the delicacy of the fragrance. For -this purpose we use the apparatus illustrated in Fig. 30. In -the large bottle A carbonic acid is generated by pouring -hydrochloric acid over fragments of white marble. The carbonic -acid passes into the vessel B filled with water which -frees it from any adhering drops of hydrochloric acid; then -into C filled with sulphuric acid to which it yields its water -so that only pure carbonic acid escapes through the fine rose<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">113</span> -at the end of tube D which is made of pure tin, and as it -passes through the oil in E it carries off the last traces of the -volatile solvent. In its final passage through the water in -F it leaves behind any oil that may have been carried with it.</p> - -<p>As all the aromatic substances change in air by the gradual -absorption of oxygen, and lose their odor—become resinified—these -costly substances must be put into small bottles -which they completely fill, and be preserved in a cool dark -place, as light and heat favor resinification. The bottles must -be closed with well-fitting glass stoppers.</p> - -<p>Aromatic waters or eaux aromatisées, such as jasmine -water (eau de jasmin), orange-flower water (eau de fleurs -d’oranges, eau triple de Néroli, aqua naphæ triplex), etc., are -made by distillation of these flowers with water and show a -faint but very fine odor. When they contain, besides, dilute -alcohol they are called spirituous waters or esprits. Those -brought into commerce from southern France are of excellent -quality.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">The Yield of Essential Oils.</span></h3> - -<p>The quantities of essential oil obtainable from the vegetable -substances vary with the amount present in each. The -following table shows the average quantities of oil to be obtained -from 100 parts of material.</p> - - -<div class="center small"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <th>Material.</th> - <th>Name of Plant.</th> - <th>Mean Yield<br />per 100 Parts.</th> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Ajowan seed</td> - <td align="left">Ptychotis Ajowan</td> - <td align="left">3·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alant root</td> - <td align="left">Inula Helenium</td> - <td align="left">0·600</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Allspice</td> - <td align="left">Myrtus Pimenta</td> - <td align="left">3·500</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Almonds, bitter</td> - <td align="left">Amygdala amara</td> - <td align="left">0·400-0·700</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Angelica seed</td> - <td align="left">Archangelica officinalis</td> - <td align="left">1·150</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Angelica root, Thuring.</td> - <td align="left">Archangelica officinalis</td> - <td align="left">0·750</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Angelica root, Saxon</td> - <td align="left">Archangelica officinalis</td> - <td align="left">1·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Anise seed, Russian</td> - <td align="left">Pimpinella Anisum</td> - <td align="left">2·800</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Anise seed, Thuring.</td> - <td align="left">Pimpinella Anisum</td> - <td align="left">2·400</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Anise seed, Morav.</td> - <td align="left">Pimpinella Anisum</td> - <td align="left">2·600<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">114</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Anise seed, Chili</td> - <td align="left">Pimpinella Anisum</td> - <td align="left">2·400</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Anise seed, Spanish</td> - <td align="left">Pimpinella Anisum</td> - <td align="left">3·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Anise seed, Levant</td> - <td align="left">Pimpinella Anisum</td> - <td align="left">1·300</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Anise chaff</td> - <td align="left">Pimpinella Anisum</td> - <td align="left">0·666</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Arnica flowers</td> - <td align="left">Arnica montana</td> - <td align="left">0·040</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Arnica root</td> - <td align="left">Arnica montana</td> - <td align="left">1·100</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Asafœtida</td> - <td align="left">Ferula Asafœtida</td> - <td align="left">3·250</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Avens root</td> - <td align="left">Geum urbanum</td> - <td align="left">0·040</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Basilicum herb, fresh</td> - <td align="left">Ocymum basilicum</td> - <td align="left">0·040</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Bay leaves</td> - <td align="left">Pimenta acris</td> - <td align="left">2·300-2·600</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Bear’s berry</td> - <td align="left">Uva ursi</td> - <td align="left">1·010</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Beech tar</td> - <td align="left">Betula alba</td> - <td align="left">20·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Bergamots</td> - <td align="left"> </td> - <td align="left">ab. 3·400</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Betel leaves</td> - <td align="left">Piper Betle</td> - <td align="left">0·550</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Bitter almond meal</td> - <td align="left">Amygdala amara</td> - <td align="left">0·950</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Buchu leaves</td> - <td align="left">Barosma crenulata</td> - <td align="left">2·600</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Butter-bur oil</td> - <td align="left">Tussilago Petasites</td> - <td align="left">0·056</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Calamus root</td> - <td align="left">Acorus Calamus</td> - <td align="left">2·800</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Camomile, German</td> - <td align="left">Matricaria Chamomilla</td> - <td align="left">4·000-6·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Camomile, Roman</td> - <td align="left">Anthemis nobilis</td> - <td align="left">3·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Caraway seed,</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">Cult. German</td> - <td align="left">Carum Carvi</td> - <td align="left">4·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">Cult. Dutch</td> - <td align="left">Carum Carvi</td> - <td align="left">5·500</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">Cult. East Prussian</td> - <td align="left">Carum Carvi</td> - <td align="left">5·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">Cult. Moravian</td> - <td align="left">Carum Carvi</td> - <td align="left">5·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">Wild German</td> - <td align="left">Carum Carvi</td> - <td align="left">6·000-7·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">Wild Norwegian</td> - <td align="left">Carum Carvi</td> - <td align="left">6·000-6·500</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">Wild Russian</td> - <td align="left">Carum Carvi</td> - <td align="left">3·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cardamoms, Ceylon</td> - <td align="left">Elettaria Cardamomum</td> - <td align="left">4·250</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cardamoms, Madras</td> - <td align="left">Elettaria Cardamomum</td> - <td align="left">4·300</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cardamoms, Malabar</td> - <td align="left">Elettaria Cardamomum</td> - <td align="left">1·750</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cardamoms, Siam</td> - <td align="left">Elettaria Cardamomum</td> - <td align="left">1·350</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Carrot seed</td> - <td align="left">Daucus Carota</td> - <td align="left">1·650</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cascarilla bark</td> - <td align="left">Croton Eluteria</td> - <td align="left">1·500</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cassia flowers</td> - <td align="left">Cinnamomum Cassia</td> - <td align="left">3·500</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cassia wood</td> - <td align="left">Cinnamomum Cassia</td> - <td align="left">0·285</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cedar wood</td> - <td align="left">Juniperus virginianus</td> - <td align="left">0·700-1·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Celery herb</td> - <td align="left">Apium graveolens</td> - <td align="left">0·200</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Celery seed</td> - <td align="left">Apium graveolens</td> - <td align="left">0·300<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">115</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Chekan leaves</td> - <td align="left">Myrtus Chekan</td> - <td align="left">1·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon, Ceylon</td> - <td align="left">Cinnamomum zeylanicum</td> - <td align="left">0·900-1·250</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon, white</td> - <td align="left">Canella alba</td> - <td align="left">1·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cloves, Amboina</td> - <td align="left">Caryophyllus aromaticus</td> - <td align="left">19·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cloves, Bourbon</td> - <td align="left">Caryophyllus aromaticus</td> - <td align="left">18·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cloves, Zanzibar</td> - <td align="left">Caryophyllus aromaticus</td> - <td align="left">17·500</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cloves, stems</td> - <td align="left">Caryophyllus aromaticus</td> - <td align="left">6·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Common wormwood herb</td> - <td align="left">Artemisia Abrotanum</td> - <td align="left">0.040</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Common wormwood root</td> - <td align="left">Artemisia Abrotanum</td> - <td align="left">0·100</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Copaiva balsam, Para</td> - <td align="left">Copaifera officinalis</td> - <td align="left">45·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Copaiva balsam, East Ind.</td> - <td align="left">Dipterocarpus turbinatus</td> - <td align="left">65·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Coriander seed,</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">Thuringian</td> - <td align="left">Coriandrum sativum</td> - <td align="left">0·800</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">Russian</td> - <td align="left">Coriandrum sativum</td> - <td align="left">0·900</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">Dutch</td> - <td align="left">Coriandrum sativum</td> - <td align="left">0·600</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">East Indian</td> - <td align="left">Coriandrum sativum</td> - <td align="left">0·150</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">Italian</td> - <td align="left">Coriandrum sativum</td> - <td align="left">0·700</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">Mogadore</td> - <td align="left">Coriandrum sativum</td> - <td align="left">0·600</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Crisp mint herb</td> - <td align="left">Mentha crispa</td> - <td align="left">1·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cubebs</td> - <td align="left">Piper Cubeba</td> - <td align="left">12·000-16·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Culilaban bark</td> - <td align="left">Laurus Culilavan</td> - <td align="left">3·400</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cumin seed, Mogadore</td> - <td align="left">Cuminum Cyminum</td> - <td align="left">3·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cumin seed, Maltese</td> - <td align="left">Cuminum Cyminum</td> - <td align="left">3·900</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cumin seed, Syrian</td> - <td align="left">Cuminum Cyminum</td> - <td align="left">4·200</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cumin seed, East Indian</td> - <td align="left">Cuminum Cyminum</td> - <td align="left">2·250</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Curcuma root</td> - <td align="left">Curcuma longa</td> - <td align="left">5·200</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Dill seed, German</td> - <td align="left">Anethum graveolens</td> - <td align="left">3·800</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Dill seed, Russian</td> - <td align="left">Anethum graveolens</td> - <td align="left">4·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Dill seed, East Indian</td> - <td align="left">Anethum Sowa</td> - <td align="left">2·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Elder flowers</td> - <td align="left">Sambucus niger</td> - <td align="left">0·025</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Elemi resin</td> - <td align="left">Icica Abilo</td> - <td align="left">17·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Eucalyptus leaves, dry</td> - <td align="left">Eucalyptus globulus</td> - <td align="left">3·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Fennel seed,</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">Saxon</td> - <td align="left">Foeniculum vulgare</td> - <td align="left">5·000-5·600</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">Galician</td> - <td align="left">Foeniculum vulgare</td> - <td align="left">6·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">East Indian</td> - <td align="left">Foeniculum Panmorium</td> - <td align="left">2·200</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Galanga root</td> - <td align="left">Alpinia Galanga</td> - <td align="left">0·750</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Galbanum resin</td> - <td align="left">Galbanum officinale</td> - <td align="left">6·500</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Geranium</td> - <td align="left">Pelargonium odoratissimum</td> - <td align="left">0·115<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">116</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Ginger root,</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">African</td> - <td align="left">Zingiber officinale</td> - <td align="left">2·600</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">Bengal</td> - <td align="left">Zingiber officinale</td> - <td align="left">2·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">Japan</td> - <td align="left">Zingiber officinale</td> - <td align="left">1·800</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cochin China</td> - <td align="left">Zingiber officinale</td> - <td align="left">1·900</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Hazel root</td> - <td align="left">Asarum europæum</td> - <td align="left">1·100</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Heracleum seed</td> - <td align="left">Heracleum Sphondylium</td> - <td align="left">1·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Hop flowers</td> - <td align="left">Humulus Lupulus</td> - <td align="left">0·700</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Hop meal, lupulin</td> - <td align="left">Humulus Lupulus</td> - <td align="left">2·250</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Hyssop herb</td> - <td align="left">Hyssopa officinalis</td> - <td align="left">0·400</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Iva herb</td> - <td align="left">Iva moschata</td> - <td align="left">0·400</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Juniper berries,</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">German</td> - <td align="left">Juniperus communis</td> - <td align="left">0·500-0·700</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">Italian</td> - <td align="left">Juniperus communis</td> - <td align="left">1·100-1·200</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">Hungarian</td> - <td align="left">Juniperus communis</td> - <td align="left">1·000-1·100</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Laurel berries</td> - <td align="left">Laurus nobilis</td> - <td align="left">1·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Laurel leaves</td> - <td align="left">Laurus nobilis</td> - <td align="left">2·400</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Laurel, Californian</td> - <td align="left">Oreodaphne californica</td> - <td align="left">7·600</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lavender flowers,</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">German</td> - <td align="left">Lavandula vera</td> - <td align="left">2·900</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Linaloe wood</td> - <td align="left">Elaphrium graveolens</td> - <td align="left">5·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lovage root</td> - <td align="left">Levisticum officinale</td> - <td align="left">0·600</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Mace</td> - <td align="left">Myristica fragrans</td> - <td align="left">11·000-16·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Marjoram herb, fresh</td> - <td align="left">Origanum Majorana</td> - <td align="left">0·350</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Marjoram herb, dry</td> - <td align="left">Origanum Majorana</td> - <td align="left">0·900</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Marsh-rosemary oil</td> - <td align="left">Ledum palustre</td> - <td align="left">0·350</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Massoy bark</td> - <td align="left">Massoia aromatica</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Masterwort root</td> - <td align="left">Imperatoria Ostruthium</td> - <td align="left">0·800</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Matico leaves</td> - <td align="left">Piper angustifolium</td> - <td align="left">2·400</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Matricaria herb</td> - <td align="left">Matricaria Parthenium</td> - <td align="left">0·030</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Melissa herb</td> - <td align="left">Melissa officinalis</td> - <td align="left">0·100</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Michelia bark</td> - <td align="left">Michelia nilagirica</td> - <td align="left">0·300</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Milfoil herb</td> - <td align="left">Achillea Millefolium</td> - <td align="left">0·080</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk seed</td> - <td align="left">Hibiscus Abelmoschus</td> - <td align="left">0·200</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Mustard seed,</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">Dutch</td> - <td align="left">Sinapis nigra</td> - <td align="left">0·850</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">German</td> - <td align="left">Sinapis nigra</td> - <td align="left">0·750</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">East Indian</td> - <td align="left">Sinapis nigra</td> - <td align="left">0·590</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">Pugliese</td> - <td align="left">Sinapis nigra</td> - <td align="left">0·750</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">Russian</td> - <td align="left">Sinapis juncea</td> - <td align="left">0·500</td> - <td align="left"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">117</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Myrrh</td> - <td align="left">Balsamodendron Myrrha</td> - <td align="left">2·500-6·500</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Myrtle</td> - <td align="left">Myrtus communis</td> - <td align="left">0·275</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Nigella seed</td> - <td align="left">Nigella sativa</td> - <td align="left">0·300</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Nutmegs</td> - <td align="left">Myristica fragrans</td> - <td align="left">8·000-10·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Olibanum resin</td> - <td align="left">Boswellia, var. spec</td> - <td align="left">6·300</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Opoponax resin</td> - <td align="left">Pastinaca Opoponax</td> - <td align="left">6·500</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orange peel, sweet</td> - <td align="left">Citrus Aurantium</td> - <td align="left">2·500</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root</td> - <td align="left">Iris florentina</td> - <td align="left">0·200</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Parsley herb</td> - <td align="left">Apium Petroselinum</td> - <td align="left">0·300</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Parsley seed</td> - <td align="left">Apium Petroselinum</td> - <td align="left">3·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Parsnip seed</td> - <td align="left">Pastinaca sativa</td> - <td align="left">2·400</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Patchouly herb</td> - <td align="left">Pogostemon Patchouly</td> - <td align="left">1·500-4·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Peach kernels</td> - <td align="left">Amygdalus persica</td> - <td align="left">0·800-1·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Pellitory root</td> - <td align="left">Valeriana celtia</td> - <td align="left">1·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Pepper, black</td> - <td align="left">Piper nigrum</td> - <td align="left">2·200</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Peppermint, fresh</td> - <td align="left">Mentha piperita</td> - <td align="left">0·300</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Peppermint, dry</td> - <td align="left">Mentha piperita</td> - <td align="left">1·000-1·250</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Peru balsam</td> - <td align="left">Toluifera Pereiræ</td> - <td align="left">0·400</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Pimpernel root</td> - <td align="left">Pimpinella saxifraga</td> - <td align="left">0·025</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Poplar sprouts</td> - <td align="left">Populus niger</td> - <td align="left">0·500</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rhodium wood</td> - <td align="left">Convolvulus Scoparius</td> - <td align="left">0·050</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose flowers, fresh</td> - <td align="left">Rosa centifolia</td> - <td align="left">0·050</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rosemary</td> - <td align="left">Rosmarinus officinalis</td> - <td align="left">1·550</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rue herb</td> - <td align="left">Ruta graveolens</td> - <td align="left">0·180</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sage herb, German</td> - <td align="left">Salvia officinalis</td> - <td align="left">1·400</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sage herb, Italian</td> - <td align="left">Salvia officinalis</td> - <td align="left">1·700</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Santal wood,</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">East Indian</td> - <td align="left">Santalum album</td> - <td align="left">4·500</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">Macassar</td> - <td align="left">Santalum album</td> - <td align="left">2·500</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli">West Indian</td> - <td align="left">Unknown</td> - <td align="left">2·700</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sassafras wood</td> - <td align="left">Sassafras officinalis</td> - <td align="left">2·600</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Savin herb</td> - <td align="left">Juniperus Sabina</td> - <td align="left">3·750</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Snakeroot, Canadian</td> - <td align="left">Asarum canadense</td> - <td align="left">2·800-3·250</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Snakeroot, Virginian</td> - <td align="left">Aristolochia Serpentaria</td> - <td align="left">2·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Star-anise, Chinese</td> - <td align="left">Illicium anisatum</td> - <td align="left">5·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Star-anise, Japanese</td> - <td align="left">Illicium religiosum</td> - <td align="left">1·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Storax</td> - <td align="left">Liquidambar orientalis</td> - <td align="left">1·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sumbul root</td> - <td align="left">Ferula Sumbul</td> - <td align="left">0·300<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">118</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tansy herb</td> - <td align="left">Tanacetum vulgare</td> - <td align="left">0·150</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Thyme</td> - <td align="left">Thymus Serpyllum</td> - <td align="left">0·200</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Thyme dry</td> - <td align="left">Thymus Serpyllum</td> - <td align="left">0·100</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Valerian root, German</td> - <td align="left">Valeriana officinalis</td> - <td align="left">0·950</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Valerian root, Dutch</td> - <td align="left">Valeriana officinalis</td> - <td align="left">1·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Valerian root, Japan</td> - <td align="left">Patrinia scabiosæfolia</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vetiver root</td> - <td align="left">Andropogon muricatus</td> - <td align="left">0·200-0·350</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Violet flowers</td> - <td align="left">Viola odorata</td> - <td align="left">0·030</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water-yarrow seed</td> - <td align="left">Phellandrium aquaticum</td> - <td align="left">1·300</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wintersweet marjoram</td> - <td align="left">Origanum creticum</td> - <td align="left">3·500</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Worm seed</td> - <td align="left">Artemisia maritima</td> - <td align="left">2·000</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wormwood herb</td> - <td align="left">Artemisia Absinthium</td> - <td align="left">0·300-0·400</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Zedoary root</td> - <td align="left">Curcuma Zedoaria</td> - <td align="left">1·300</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Fresh flowers as a rule contain more aromatic material -than wilted ones; the yield of dried herbs, leaves, etc., is usually -greater than that of the fresh, because the latter contain -much water which is lost in drying. When such vegetable -materials cannot be worked fresh, which is best, they should -be completely dried, spread on boards, at a moderate temperature -in the shade and preserved in dry airy rooms, special -care being had to guard against mould.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a><br /> - -<small>THE SPECIAL CHARACTERISTICS OF AROMATIC -SUBSTANCES.</small></h2> - - -<p>In a preceding chapter on the chemical properties of the -vegetable substances many of their characteristics have been -described. In this place we need only describe the physical -properties of the essential oils, and with some of them to lay -stress on those peculiarities by which they are specially differentiated. -This knowledge is of the greatest importance to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">119</span> -the manufacturer of perfumery because no single individual is -in a position to prepare all aromatic substances himself, but -must rely on commerce for some of them; and in no group -of chemicals is adulteration as frequent and as difficult of demonstration -as among the aromatics. These adulterations -are carried so far that many essential oils occurring in commerce -under certain names often have nothing in common -with the substance for which they are sold but the name.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Cassie.</span></h3> - -<p>The oil of Acacia farnesiana is greenish-yellow and viscid; -the density and boiling-point, which are of the greatest importance -with reference to the genuineness of an essential oil, -are not yet accurately known. Moreover, this oil never -occurs in commerce as such, but its odor is present in perfumes, -fixed oils, and pomades.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Anise</span></h3> - -<p>should be colorless or faintly yellow; a dark yellow color indicates -old and inferior quality. The characteristics of this oil -are the odor, its aromatic sweet taste, and especially the property -of solidifying at a comparatively high temperature, 10-15° -C. (50-59° F.), which is due to the separation of a stearopten, -anethol. Oil of anise is frequently adulterated with or -replaced by oil of star-anise. The easy solidification of the -oil of anise is not always proof of its good quality, for the oil -from anise chaff, which congeals at a still higher temperature, -is sometimes mixed with it, and this has a less fine odor than -that distilled from the seed. One part by weight of oil of -anise is soluble in an equal weight of alcohol of 94%.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Bergamot</span></h3> - -<p>has a pale yellow color which becomes greenish when the oil -is kept in copper vessels, and a strong agreeable odor. This<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">120</span> -oil requires the greatest care in its preservation, as it abstracts -oxygen from the air with extreme rapidity, when it changes -its superior odor so that it can hardly be distinguished from -oil of turpentine.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Bitter Almond (Oleum Amygdale Amaræ)</span>,</h3> - -<p>when pure, is a colorless, refractive liquid which is heavier -than water. The vessels in which this product is preserved -must be stoppered air-tight, for in the air the oil very quickly -changes into a white, odorless mass of crystals consisting of -benzoic acid.</p> - -<p>Oil of bitter almond is formed by the action of the amygdalin -upon the emulsin present in the fruit, bitter-almond -meal being deprived of fat and left in contact with water for -some hours at from 40-45° C. (104-113° F.). Besides oil of -bitter almond, sugar and prussic acid are likewise formed. -The crude oil distilled from the meal is freed from the prussic -acid by agitation with ferrous chloride and lime-water, and -redistillation.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Cajeput (Oleum Cajuputi)</span></h3> - -<p>has usually a greenish color, and has a burning, camphoraceous -and at the same time cooling taste. It has a peculiar -odor resembling that of camphor and rosemary.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Calamus (Oleum Calami).</span></h3> - -<p>This oil, which is very viscid and of a yellow or reddish -color, must usually be mixed with other essential oils in order -to furnish pleasant perfumes.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Chamomile (Oleum Chamomillæ).</span></h3> - -<p>Oil of chamomile, from Matricaria Chamomilla (common -chamomile), which is specially characterized by its magnificent -dark-blue color, has a marked narcotic odor and is very<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">121</span> -high-priced, owing to the small yield of oil by the flowers. -The oil from Anthemis nobilis (Roman chamomile) has also a -blue color which gradually becomes greenish-yellow.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Camphor (Camphora).</span></h3> - -<p>This essential oil differs from the others mainly by being -firm and crystalline at ordinary temperatures. Chinese or -Japanese camphor melts at 175° C. (347° F.) and boils at 205° -C. (401° F.). Camphor is seldom used alone, as its odor is -hardly fragrant; but it finds frequent application in the preparation -of mouth washes, toilet vinegars, etc. In commerce -so-called Borneo camphor is also met with (though rarely), -which closely resembles the Chinese in appearance and other -qualities, but is more friable and melts at 189° C. (388·4° F.).</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Cascarilla</span></h3> - -<p>is not used pure in perfumery, the bark being generally employed -instead.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Cassia (Oleum Cassiæ)</span></h3> - -<p>has a yellow color, gradually becoming dark reddish-brown, and -an odor resembling that of oil of cinnamon, but the odor is not -so fine, nor so strong, as that of the latter. The taste of the -oil is of special importance: while that of true oil of cinnamon -is burning though sweet, oil of cassia has a sharper -taste, and this taste is considered by some a good mark of -recognition of the rather common adulteration of true oil of -cinnamon which is much more costly.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Cedar.</span></h3> - -<p>This oil, obtained from the wood of the Juniperus virginiana -(not from the true cedar, Cedrus Libani), is clear like -water, has a pleasant odor, and differs from most essential oils<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">122</span> -by congealing at a very low temperature (-22° C. or-8° F.) -and by its uncommon resinification in contact with air.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Citron.</span></h3> - -<p>Oil of citron is usually merely a synonym for “oil of -lemon.” But in perfumery it has been customary to designate -the oil of lemon which was extracted by the écuelle process, -as “oil of citron-zeste” or “oil of citron,” while “oil of lemon” -meant the distilled oil. Since there is no difficulty at the -present time in obtaining all the hand-pressed oil that may be -required, and of the finest quality, there is no longer any necessity -for making the before-mentioned distinction.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Lemon (Oleum Limonis, Oleum Citri)</span></h3> - -<p>is one of the most important essential oils for the perfumer -as well as the manufacturer of liqueurs, confectioner, etc. The -oil is pale yellow, and of a very strong refreshing odor which -it loses rapidly in contact with the air, when it acquires a disagreeable -odor of turpentine and gradually resinifies. This -change is particularly marked under the influence of light. -Its spec. grav. is 0·850 at 20° C. (68° F.). It is soluble in an -equal volume of strong alcohol or glacial acetic acid. The -hand-pressed oil has a much finer aroma than that obtained -by distillation.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Citronella.</span></h3> - -<p>This oil is hardly ever made in Europe, since it is imported -in excellent quality and at low prices from India and -especially the island of Ceylon. (See above, p. 29.)</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Lemon-Grass.</span></h3> - -<p>This oil, which is imported in considerable quantities from -India (chiefly Ceylon), is colorless and possesses a very pleasant -odor of lemon which at the same time recalls that of roses<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">123</span> -and still more that of geranium, which is not rarely adulterated -with it. (See above, p. 33.)</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Coriander (Oleum Coriandri)</span></h3> - -<p>has a pale yellow color and a burning, sharp, aromatic taste. -Like oil of cubebs (oleum cubebæ), oil of dill (oleum anethi), and -oil of fennel (oleum fœniculi) which latter also has a rather -low congealing point (-8° C. or +17° F.), this oil is used less -in perfumery than for scenting soap and in the manufacture of -liqueurs. But it should be noted that these oils, as well as -those of bergamot, caraway, star-anise, and some others, could -well be employed for cheap perfumes and for scenting soap. -Oil of dill also finds application alone in the preparation of -some face washes, and the dried fennel herb in cheap sachets.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Lilac</span></h3> - -<p>can be made at slight cost from the flowers, as the raw material -is obtainable without much trouble; it forms a yellow, -strong-scented oil. In perfumery, however, use is generally -made only of the pomade made from the fresh flowers or the -alcoholic extract prepared from it. Or else the odor is imitated -by means of terpineol, which is now on the market -under the name of lilacin.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Geranium.</span></h3> - -<p>It is necessary to distinguish clearly between oil of true -geranium distilled in Southern France and Algiers from species -of Pelargonium; and Turkish oil of geranium, also known as -Palmarosa oil, oil of geranium grass, oil of Rusa grass, etc., -which is distilled in India from ginger grass. (See above, p. -33.)</p> - -<p>The first-mentioned oil has a much finer aroma than the -second. The two oils are frequently confounded, even in -prominent works of reference.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">124</span></p> - -<p>When oil of geranium or of rose geranium is directed to -be used, the French (or Algerian, or Spanish) oil should be -employed. These cost more than twice as much as the so-called -Turkish or palmarosa oil.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Heliotrope.</span></h3> - -<p>This oil which does not yet occur in commerce (we find -merely the pomade and the alcoholic extract of the latter) -has been made by the author experimentally; the most suitable -method was found to be extraction with petroleum ether. -As the plant, Heliotropium peruvianum, the source of this delightful -odor, is frequently cultivated in our gardens, the preparation -of the oil by this method is to be recommended, -being less expensive and more rapid than by the use of fat, -while the product obtained with petroleum ether is as fine as -that extracted by alcohol from the pomade.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Elder (Oleum Sambuci).</span></h3> - -<p>The remark made under the head of oil of lilac applies -equally to this oil. For the benefit of those who wish to make -this oil in its pure form we may add that it is absolutely necessary -to select only the freshest flowers, otherwise the odor -will be very much impaired.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Jasmine</span>,</h3> - -<p>not to be confounded with the oil of Syringa or German jasmine -(Philadelphus coronarius), is colorless or yellowish and -has a very strong, almost narcotic odor. It is one of the -most valuable and at the same time most expensive aromatic -substances employed in perfumery. Genuine oil of jasmine -can be obtained only from Southern France at very high -prices. What is usually sold as “oil of jasmine” is a fixed oil -impregnated with the aroma of jasmine.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">125</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Cherry-Laurel</span></h3> - -<p>is not used as such in perfumery; at most cherry-laurel water -may be employed. But as this has the odor of oil of bitter -almond and as the presence of some prussic acid, on account -of which the officinal cherry-laurel water is used, is of no value -to the perfumer and is, in fact, undesirable, owing to its -poisonous quality, we substitute in all cases a corresponding -quantity of oil of bitter almond for cherry-laurel water.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Culilaban (Oleum Culilavani)</span></h3> - -<p>is light brown, somewhat viscid; the odor recalls that of the -oils of cinnamon, sassafras, and clove. It has been used for -scenting soap.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Caraway (Oleum Cari)</span></h3> - -<p>is light yellow and has an aromatic odor and burning taste. -In perfumery it is used only for very cheap odors and for -scenting soap; it finds its chief application in the manufacture -of liqueurs.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Lavender (Oleum Lavandulæ).</span></h3> - -<p>This oil is of great importance to the perfumer and is imported -in unsurpassed quality from England (Mitcham); it is -light yellow, has a burning sharp taste, and is exceedingly sensitive -to light and air, under the action of which it loses its -refreshing odor in a very brief time and acquires a common -smell recalling that of turpentine.</p> - -<p>The buyer of this oil should take care to secure the true oil -of lavender (from Lavandula vera); for the oil of spike-lavender -is sold under the same name. This, prepared from Lavandula -Spica, has a similar odor to the genuine, but cannot be -compared with it in delicacy. For this reason, too, the difference -in the price between the two is considerable. True<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">126</span> -English oil of lavender costs ten times as much as oil of spike-lavender. -The English brand of the true oil is of so excellent -a quality that it brings four or five times as much as the best -French oil, which is sold under the name of huile de lavande -des Alpes. Yet during the last decade or so the French oil -of lavender flowers has become so much improved in quality -that it has become a serious rival to the Mitcham oil.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Wallflower</span></h3> - -<p>made from the flowers of the well-known garden plant, and</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Lily</span></h3> - -<p>likewise from the ornamental plant, are, strange to say, not -manufactured in any place, to our knowledge. Experiments -made by us in this direction prove that the odors of these -plants can be obtained either by absorption or, more readily, -by extraction. The perfumes thus far occurring under these -names are always combinations of different scents which, -though pleasant, have but little in common with the plants -whose names they bear.</p> - -<p>In this connection we may say that the perfumes sold under -the names of various flowers often have no relation to them, -but are mixtures of various odors. While it cannot be denied -that perfumes may be made in this manner which resemble -those of the respective plants, it is unquestionably an imperfection -in the art of perfumery that these odors are not really -made from the flowers mentioned. To give another characteristic -instance, we may add that the delightful odor of the -well-known lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis)—a plant -which grows wild abundantly in many of our forests—has not -yet been produced, and that even imitations of this odor, -which in delicacy and fragrance stands next to those of the -rose and violet, are seldom met with in commerce.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">127</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Lemon (Oleum Limonis)</span>,</h3> - -<p>obtained from the fruits of the lemon-tree, is one of the most -important products, both statistically and economically, of -the Citrus family. In German works there is often a confusion -between “oil of citron” and “oil of lemon,” it being supposed -by the authors that the “Citronen-öl” is derived from -the citron (Citrus medica), and the “Limonen-öl” from the -lemon (Citrus Limonum). There is, indeed, some oil made, -occasionally, from the citron, but it does not figure in price-lists. -The oil of the lemon, on the other hand, is very commonly -called “Citronen-öl,” and the fruit itself “Citrone.” -Hence, when “Citronen-öl” is quoted in a formula, it may be -assumed at once that oil of lemon is intended. It is very -liable to resinify, when it loses its fragrance.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Sweet Bay (Laurel) (Oleum Lauri)</span></h3> - -<p>is green, and usually mixed with the fixed oil of the same -plant. It finds more frequent application in the manufacture -of liqueurs than in perfumery; but as it has a pleasant odor -it might well be used for cheap perfumes. But in that event -it must be freed from the fixed oil by distillation.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Magnolia</span>,</h3> - -<p>likewise, has not yet been prepared as such. The remarks -made above under the head of oils of lily and wallflower apply -also to this odor. The so-called magnolia perfumes are mixtures -of different odors.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Marjoram (Oleum Majoranæ).</span></h3> - -<p>Oil of marjoram, which is obtained by distillation from the -dried herb, has a strong aromatic odor. It is mentioned as -having often been used in perfumery for scenting soap instead -of oil of thyme, whose odor, moreover, is very similar to that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">128</span> -of marjoram, but this is a mistake, due to the fact that ordinary -oil of thyme has long been sold under the name of oil of -origanum. True oil of marjoram costs about twelve dollars -a pound, while oil of thyme (so-called oil of origanum) is worth -only about eighty cents. It is rarely employed for volatile -perfumes.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Melissa.</span></h3> - -<p>The oil of Melissa officinalis, owing to the very small yield, -is quite expensive. It is used only for the preparation of -some perfumes which owe their peculiar qualities to this strong -odor. This oil must not be confounded with the spurious oil -of melissa, also called oil of citron-melissa, which is identical -with oil of lemon grass (see page 30).</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oils of Mint.</span></h3> - -<p>Although all the mints possess an agreeable odor, only three -varieties find extensive application. There are the oils from -Mentha piperita, peppermint; Mentha viridis, spearmint; and -Mentha crispa, crispmint. The oils of English manufacture are -highly esteemed, but the United States also produces them of -excellent quality. At one time the cultivation of mints, particularly -peppermint, was greatly extended, with the expectation -of deriving satisfactory profit from the enterprise. It has, however, -been conclusively shown that the market cannot absorb -more than a certain quantity of these products; and that any -over-production brings loss and disappointment to the investor. -Beside the three kinds of mint above mentioned, -there is another species, Mentha arvensis, a native of Japan, -which is extensively cultivated there, and is the chief source -of the menthol of commerce, so well known as an efficient -remedy for neuralgia, migraine, etc., in form of menthol cones. -The three varieties of the mint oils previously mentioned are -distinguished, aside from their pleasant odor, by the property<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">129</span> -of leaving a very refreshing and cooling taste in the mouth, -and for this reason they form the most important constituent -of all fine mouth washes.</p> - -<p>True oil of peppermint, Oleum Menthæ piperitæ, when pure -is colorless, very mobile, of a burning sharp taste which is followed -by a peculiar coolness. The commercial product is -usually pale green. Oil of crispmint, Oleum Menthæ crispæ, -which in Europe is often sold to novices as oil of peppermint, -has always a more or less yellow color and resembles the oil of -peppermint in its properties, but it is less fine and cheaper. -The same is true of the oil of spearmint, but this has a very -characteristic odor and taste, distinctly different from peppermint.</p> - -<p>As above stated, the oils of mint are extensively used for -mouth washes, also for scenting soap, in liqueurs and pastils, -but rarely in handkerchief perfumes.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oils of Mace and Nutmeg (Oleum Macidis and Oleum -Myristicæ).</span></h3> - -<p>These oils are prepared either from the seed coat (Oleum -Macidis) or the nutmeg itself (Oleum Myristicæ). Oil of -mace generally has a yellowish-red color in tint varying from -dark to light and even colorless. Its taste is agreeable and -mild and the odor exceedingly strong. Like oil of nutmeg, -it is extensively used in the manufacture of liqueurs and for -scenting soap. The oil prepared by distillation from the nutmeg -is, when fresh, almost colorless or at most faintly yellow, -of a burning sharp taste, and an aromatic odor. Like oil of -mace, it is used in the manufacture of liqueurs and soaps and -also in many perfumes.</p> - -<p>In India a third valuable product is obtained from the -nutmeg by expression of the ripe fruits and is called nutmeg -butter. This is bright yellow and consists of a true fat -and an essential oil. Its odor is very pleasant and a very<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">130</span> -superior soap can be made by saponification of this valuable -product with soda lye.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Myrtle.</span></h3> - -<p>This oil is of a greenish color and very mobile, but it is not -a commercial product; the manufacturer must prepare the oil -himself from the leaves, though the yield is small. The articles -sold as so-called essence of myrtle are always mixtures -of different odors. Southern France, however, exports at high -prices a myrtle water (eau des anges) which is really made by -distillation of the leaves with water.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Narcissus.</span></h3> - -<p>As to the odor to which this flower owes its fragrance we -may repeat what we have said just now with reference to the -oil of myrtle: we have never succeeded in obtaining this oil -in commerce. The so-called essence of narcissus, though a -very pleasant mixture, contains no trace of the true oil. As to</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Pink</span>,</h3> - -<p>the same remark applies: the compositions sold under the -name of essence d’œillet, however, have a very striking odor -of pink.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Clove (Oleum Caryophylli).</span></h3> - -<p>This oil when fresh is colorless, but soon becomes yellowish -or brown. It is heavier than water in which it sinks and -is characterized by an exceedingly strong burning taste and -a spicy odor. It remains at least partly fluid at a very low -temperature, namely,-20° C. (-4° F.).</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Orange Flowers (Oleum Naphæ, Oleum -Neroli)</span>,</h3> - -<p>commercially known also under the French names huile de -fleurs d’oranges, huile néroli, huile néroli pétale, is obtained<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">131</span> -from the flowers of the orange-tree in Southern France, where -the orange is specially planted for this purpose. The odor of -the oil varies with the mode of its preparation; that obtained -by distillation with water has a different odor from that made -by maceration with fat and extraction with alcohol. The latter -variety of oil as such, however, is not found in commerce, the -alcoholic extract entering at once into the composition of the -perfumes.</p> - -<p>The French manufacturers of this oil, which is of great importance -in perfumery, distinguish several varieties. The -most valuable is the oil from the flowers of Citrus vulgaris (or -Citrus Bigaradia), the true bitter orange (or Seville orange) tree. -This is the so-called néroli bigarade. That called néroli pétale -is obtained from the same flowers carefully deprived of their -floral envelopes, so that only the petals are subjected to distillation. -Much cheaper than these two is the oil of petit -grain which is distilled from the leaves and sometimes also -unripe fruits of various trees of the Citrus order.</p> - -<p>All these oils are among the most delicate; when fresh -they are colorless and have a peculiar bitter taste; exposed to -light and air they assume a reddish tint and undergo rapid -resinification. They should, therefore, be preserved in particularly -well-closed vessels in a dark, cool place.</p> - -<p>Not to be confounded with these oils is the</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Orange</span>,</h3> - -<p>of which there are two kinds, one from the bitter orange, known -also as Oil of Orange, Bigarade, and the other from the sweet -orange, also known as Oil of Portugal. Both are extracted -from the peel of the fruit by mechanical means. Both oils of -orange peel are golden yellow, and have a pleasant, refreshing -odor recalling that of the fruit. They find application for -scenting soap, in toilet waters, and in some true perfumes. -When oil of orange or oil of orange peel is mentioned in any<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">132</span> -formula, without further specification, the oil of <em>bitter</em> orange -peel should be used.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Patchouly.</span></h3> - -<p>This oil, which might be manufactured with advantage in -India, the home of the plant, is, strange to say, not imported -from that country, but is distilled in Europe from the dried -herb. Fresh oil of patchouly is brown in color, very viscid, -almost like balsam, and surpasses all other essential oils in the -intensity of its odor. Owing to the strong odor, pure oil of -patchouly must really be called ill-smelling; only when highly -diluted does the odor become pleasant, and then forms a -useful ingredient of many perfumes as the fundamental odor -in the harmony.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Syringa.</span></h3> - -<p>Oil of false jasmine, from the flowers of Philadelphus coronarius, -is not made as such; in Southern France, however, the -flowers are frequently used for the preparation of a cheap -pomade known commercially as orange-flower pomade. A -personal experiment made with the view to obtain the pure -odor by extraction of the flowers with petroleum ether has -shown that this plant is suitable for making very fine preparations, -both handkerchief perfumes and pomades.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Allspice</span>,</h3> - -<p>of a burning sharp taste and odor, is colorless, but is hardly -ever used for the purposes of the perfumer—at most for soaps—but -all the more frequently in the manufacture of liqueurs, -and particularly also in that of artificial bay-rum.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Sweet Pea</span></h3> - -<p>has not been made thus far, though there is no doubt that -this perfume, too, can be prepared pure from the alcoholic<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">133</span> -extract of the pomade. The properties of the oil should resemble -those of the finest néroli pétale.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Rue (Oleum Rutæ).</span></h3> - -<p>This oil, obtained by distillation of the herb, is colorless or -pale yellow, of a very strong, penetrating odor; it is used in -some washes, but more particularly as an ingredient in the -manufacture of artificial cognac, for which purpose the plant -is specially cultivated in France.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Reseda (Mignonette).</span></h3> - -<p>The delightful odor of this plant which formerly could -only be fixed by maceration in fat may be readily prepared -by extraction with petroleum ether. Yet special precautions -should be taken that nothing but portions of the flowers, carefully -picked off, and no green leaves are extracted. The oil -thus obtained has a yellow color and a disagreeable odor which -changes into the well-known pleasant smell of the flower when -highly diluted with alcohol.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Rose (Oleum Rosæ)</span>,</h3> - -<p>also known as attar or otto of rose. The various species of -roses give different odors. The commercial Turkish, Persian, -and Indian oils of rose (which latter is never exported)—which, -by the way, are very generally adulterated even at their point -of production—are derived mainly from Rosa damascena, and -when highly diluted yield the pleasant odor of our ordinary -garden roses. The rose oils having the odor of the moss rose, -tea rose, or dog rose are made almost exclusively in France -and in commerce do not appear pure but generally in the -form of pomades or alcoholic solutions known as essences de -roses.</p> - -<p>True rose oil is yellowish or yellow, or else greenish, and -varying from liquid almost to the consistence of butter. Be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">134</span>tween -these extremes there are all possible gradations. A -comparatively very high congealing-point is a characteristic -of oil of rose. It becomes almost solid at 14 to 20° C. (57 to -68° F.). The portion separated during solidification is colorless, -markedly crystalline, and, strange to say, almost odorless. -Pure oil of rose smells disagreeably narcotic, only the -very dilute solution shows the incomparable fragrance.</p> - -<p>Much superior to the oils of rose which are prepared from -rose leaves (either fresh or salted) are those obtained by -maceration or extraction with petroleum ether. Those perfumes -sold under the name of various species of rose, such -as moss rose, etc., are combinations of rose oil with other -aromatics.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Rhodium.</span></h3> - -<p>This bright yellow light oil is obtained by distillation of -the wood of Convolvulus Scoparius. At times this oil is scarce -in commerce. It has a faint but decided odor of rose.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Rosemary (Oleum Rosmarini).</span></h3> - -<p>This oil is obtained by distillation from the herb of the -rosemary plant as a thin, pale green fluid with an aromatic -odor and spicy taste. It is used as an ingredient in some old -renowned handkerchief perfumes—for instance, Cologne water—also -for flavoring soaps and liqueurs.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Sage (Oleum Salviæ)</span>,</h3> - -<p>from the flowers of Salvia officinalis, is yellowish, with an -odor somewhat similar to that of oil of peppermint, but far -less intense. Like the latter it imparts a pleasant coolness -to the mouth and hence is used in some mouth washes.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Santal (Oleum Santali).</span></h3> - -<p>The oil of santal wood (also called sandal-wood oil) has a -thick, honey-like consistence and an agreeable, rose-like odor.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">135</span> -Formerly it was sometimes used for the adulteration of oil of -rose, but can also very well be used alone for several perfumes -and fumigating preparations.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Sassafras (Oleum Sassafras)</span></h3> - -<p>is yellow, spicy, with a burning odor and taste; in the cold -it crystallizes only in part. The odor of this oil recalls that -of fennel. The purest form of it, or rather substitute for it, -is safrol, its main constituent, which is, however, now extracted -more economically from crude oil of camphor, in -which it likewise forms an ingredient.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Meadow-sweet (Oleum Spirææ).</span></h3> - -<p>Several species of Spiræa, and especially Spiræa ulmaria, -furnish very pleasant odors. This oil consists mainly of salicylic -aldehyde.</p> - -<p>Despite its pleasant odor and the facility of its production, -this substance has thus far found little application in perfumery. -The natural oil of meadowsweet, owing to its extremely -high price, can hardly ever be used.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Star-Anise (Oleum Anisi Stellati; Oleum -Illicii)</span></h3> - -<p>resembles in its properties the oil of anise, even in its odor; -but all connoisseurs agree that the odor of the oil of star-anise -far surpasses that of the oil of anise, hence the former is used -especially for fine perfumes. This preference, however, does -not extend to all preparations. For certain liqueurs, such as -anisette, the oil obtained from common anise (Saxon anise) is -usually preferred. Many also regard the odor of star-anise as -inferior to that of fine European anise.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oils of Thyme (Oleum Thymi).</span></h3> - -<p>The essential oils of thyme (chiefly Thymus vulgaris) and -some related plants are very frequently used for scenting<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">136</span> -cheap soaps. The oils of these plants are light yellow, and -so similar in odor that it is not possible to distinguish them -except by direct comparison.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Vanilla</span>,</h3> - -<p>or, more correctly, vanilla camphor, the true odorous constituent -of vanilla, also called vanillin, is a crystalline substance -with a delightful odor, melting at 76° C. (169° F.). This is -now extensively made artificially from the cambium sap of -pines, the coniferin being converted by chemical processes -into vanillin. One ounce of good vanillin is equivalent to -about forty ounces of best Mexican vanilla beans.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Violet</span></h3> - -<p>has thus far been produced in but very small quantities from -the alcoholic extract of the true violet pomade; it has a -greenish color and when pure a narcotic odor not to be recognized -as that of the flower. The pleasant odor of violets -manifests itself only in extreme dilution.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Verbena</span></h3> - -<p>is yellow, with a very pleasant odor of lemons. Its price being -quite high, it is usually adulterated with oil of lemon-grass, or -else the latter is sold under the name of oil of verbena (see p. -30). In fact the odors of the two oils are so similar that they -are easily confounded.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Vetiver (Oleum Ivaranchusæ)</span>,</h3> - -<p>from Andropogon muricatus (see p. 30), is viscid, reddish-brown, -with a very strong and lasting odor.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Wintergreen (Oleum Gaultheriæ).</span></h3> - -<p>This product is obtained by distillation from the leaves and -twigs of Gaultheria procumbens or else by distilling the bark<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">137</span> -or leaves of Betula lenta with water, in which case the oil is -generated by the action of the water, as it does not pre-exist in -the birch, and, moreover, in this case the oil consists of nothing -but methyl salicylate. It differs, like oil of meadowsweet, -very markedly from the other aromatic substances and mainly -consists of a so-called compound ether. It is a salicylate of -methyl, boils at 220° C. (428° F.), is much heavier than water -(specific gravity 1·173 to 1·184), and dissolves readily in alcohol -and other solvents. It is used chiefly for scenting soap; the -perfumes sold as wintergreen are usually mixtures of different -substances which contain no oil of wintergreen.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Ylang-Ylang (Oleum Unonæ odoratissimæ)</span></h3> - -<p>is imported from Manilla. It is colorless or yellowish, and -has a most delightful characteristic odor, which is rather fugitive -if not made resistant by other substances. It forms an -important constituent of several of the most favorite and expensive -essences.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Hyssop (Oleum Hyssopi)</span></h3> - -<p>is colorless, but rapidly becomes yellow in the air. It is used -in some very cheap perfumes and in the manufacture of -liqueurs.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oils of Cinnamon (Oleum Cinnamomi).</span></h3> - -<p>Commercially we find chiefly three varieties of essential -oils which are designated as: oil of Ceylon cinnamon, oil -of Chinese cinnamon or oil of cassia, and oil of cinnamon -leaves. Oil of Ceylon cinnamon, sometimes called “true oil -of cinnamon,” made from the bark of the twigs of the cinnamon -laurel and formerly imported mainly from Ceylon but -now distilled in large amounts in Germany from imported -cinnamon “chips,” is rather viscid, golden yellow to reddish-brown -in color, of a burning though sweet taste. In the air it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">138</span> -gradually absorbs oxygen, when it becomes dark red, thicker, -and of weaker flavor. Oil of Ceylon cinnamon, which should -always be used in perfumes or liqueurs when simply “oil of -cinnamon” is directed, has a specific gravity of 1·030 to 1·035 -at 15° C. (59° F.) and boils at about 240° C. (464° F.). Its -chief constituent upon which its aroma depends is cinnamyl -aldehyde.</p> - -<p>Oil of Chinese cinnamon, or oil of cassia, has for a very -long time, up to within a few years, always reached the market -in a more or less adulterated state, a regular practice of -the Chinese exporters being to dissolve ordinary resin in it -(claiming afterward that the “resin” was caused by the oxidation -of the oil through age) and often also to add petroleum -to it. These frauds have been well shown up by Schimmel -& Co., of Leipsic; and in consequence thereof, the quality of -oil of cassia exported from China has been greatly improved. -Oil of cassia when pure has a specific gravity of 1·060 to -1·065, and should contain not less than seventy-five per cent of -cinnamyl aldehyde.</p> - -<p>Oil of cinnamon leaves is an inferior product, often used -for adulterating oil of Ceylon cinnamon. It does not deserve -notice by the perfumer.</p> - -<p>As an appendix we may add in this connection a description -of the</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oil of Turpentine (Oleum Terebinthinæ)</span>,</h3> - -<p>because it must be called an important substance to know -for the perfumer, inasmuch as it is very frequently used for -the adulteration of different essential oils. Oil of turpentine, -which is obtained from incisions into the bark of different -fir and pine trees, the exuding resin being distilled with -water, comes into commerce from various sources. Different -sorts are distinguished, but to the perfumer only the -rectified oil of turpentine, oleum terebinthinæ rectificatum, is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">139</span> -important. Oil of turpentine has a yellowish color and a -decidedly disagreeable, resinous, and burnt taste. By repeated -distillation, especially over quicklime or chloride of lime -(bleaching powder), it is finally obtained as a colorless, very -refractive liquid with a density of 0·855 to 0·870 and a boiling-point -at 160° C. (320° F.). Its odor is peculiar, but not easily -distinguished from that of old essential oils, such as oils of -caraway, anise, etc. One peculiarity of oil of turpentine is -that its odor is easily masked by that of other essential oils, -so that, for instance, a comparatively large quantity of oil of -turpentine needs the addition of but little oil of anise to impart -to the entire mixture a rather pronounced odor of anise. -This peculiarity has led to the frequent employment of rectified -oil of turpentine for the adulteration of other essential -oils.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</a><br /> - -<small>THE ADULTERATIONS OF ESSENTIAL OILS AND -THEIR RECOGNITION.</small></h2> - - -<p>We find it necessary to devote a special chapter to the -adulterations of the commercial essential oils because an experience -of many years has shown us that hardly any other -group of products is subject to so many sophistications as -essential oils. The high price of most aromatic substances -and the difficulty of recognizing the adulteration furnish an -inviting field to the unscrupulous manufacturer. In the best -interest of the perfumer, therefore, we advise the purchase of -essential oils only from renowned reliable houses, even at -higher prices, for the cheap commercial products are almost -worthless, since they are almost without exception adulterated.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">140</span></p> - -<p>The adulterations are very manifold. Some expensive oils -are mixed with cheaper ones having a similar odor—for instance, -oil of rose with oil of geranium or oil of geranium -grass; oil of orange flowers with the oil from Philadelphus -coronarius; oil of verbena with oil of lemon grass; oils of caraway, -anise, and fennel with oil of turpentine; oil of cinnamon -with oil of cassia, etc. Besides these, other deceptions are -practised—for instance, oil of anise is mixed with oil of turpentine -and in order to make the mixture congeal readily -(which is the characteristic of true oil of anise, as above -stated) paraffin or spermaceti is added. A similar practice -prevails with adulterated oil of rose and other viscid oils. Oil -of bitter almond we have found adulterated with or entirely -replaced by nitrobenzol, etc.</p> - -<p>The demonstration of the adulteration of an essential oil -by chemical means offers many difficulties. We devote particular -attention to the physical characteristics, for experience -has shown us that the olfactory organ—provided it is very -expert—is often able to determine the genuineness of any aromatic -substance when other tests have given only uncertain -results, or can give certain results only in the hands of experts. -To make this test, however, quite reliable, it is necessary -to be familiar with the substances in their pure unadulterated -condition.</p> - -<p>The manufacturer of perfumery, therefore, should spare -neither trouble nor pecuniary sacrifices to obtain possession -of absolutely genuine specimens of those essential oils, even in -minute quantities, which he intends to employ. Such samples -should be carefully preserved (protected from heat, -evaporation, daylight, etc.) for the purpose of immediate comparison -with the oils to be purchased.</p> - -<p>As above stated, the physical properties of the essential -oils usually furnish the means of recognizing their purity, and -these give more reliable results to the practical perfumer than<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">141</span> -the chemical tests. The most valuable points are furnished -by the boiling-point, the congealing-point, and the density of -the oils. The following table gives the boiling and congealing -points of the most important essential oils in degrees of the -centigrade thermometer, together with the density (or specific -gravity); where two figures are given, they indicate the extreme -limits found in genuine samples.</p> - -<p>Special characteristics of some essential oils with reference -to their action at low temperatures or their melting-point are -given in the column “Remarks.”</p> - -<p>Oil of turpentine, paraffin, wax, and spermaceti being frequently -used for the adulteration of essential oils, have been -included in the table.</p> - -<p>If accurate results are aimed at in the examination of an -essential oil according to this table, the specific gravity should -be determined by means of a scale sensitive to one one-thousandth -gram, and the thermometer should be graduated to the -tenth of a degree.</p> - - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Table Showing the Approximate Density, Boiling and Congealing -Points of the most Important Essential Oils -Used in Perfumery.</span></p> - -<div class="center small"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <th class="thcbr">Essential Oil of</th> - <th class="thcbr">Density.</th> - <th class="thcbr">Boiling Point, Deg. C.</th> - <th class="thcbr">Congealing Point, Deg. C.</th> - <th class="thcbr">Remarks.</th> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Absinth</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·895</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Anise</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·980</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">+10-15</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Bergamot</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·850-0·890</td> - <td class="tdcbr">188</td> - <td class="tdcbr">-24</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Bitter almond</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1·040</td> - <td class="tdcbr">180</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Do., art. (nitrobenzol)</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1·866</td> - <td class="tdcbr">213</td> - <td class="tdcbr">+3</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Cajuput</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·880</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Calamus</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·962</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Camomile</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·924</td> - <td class="tdcbr">160-210</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Camphor (Borneo)</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">212</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">Melts at 198</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Camphor (Chinese)</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·985</td> - <td class="tdcbr">205</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">Melts at 175</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Caraway</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·960</td> - <td class="tdcbr">195</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Cassia</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1·060</td> - <td class="tdcbr">252-255</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Cedar wood</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">264</td> - <td class="tdcbr">-22</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Cinnamon</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1·030-1·035</td> - <td class="tdcbr">240</td> - <td class="tdcbr">below -25</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Cinnamon leaf</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1·053</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Clove</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1·034-1·055</td> - <td class="tdcbr">248</td> - <td class="tdcbr">below 20</td> - <td class="tdcbr">Forms crystals -16</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Coriander</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·871</td> - <td class="tdcbr">150-200</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">142</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Crispmint</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·978</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Cubeb</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·880</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Fennel</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·960-0·980</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">+8</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Gaultheria</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1·173</td> - <td class="tdcbr">224</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Geranium</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·895</td> - <td class="tdcbr">216-220</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">Forms crystals -16</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Hyssop</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·889</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Juniper</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·870</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Lavender</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·870-0·940</td> - <td class="tdcbr">186-192</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Spike-lavender</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">140</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Lemon</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·850-0·870</td> - <td class="tdcbr">177-250</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Lemon grass</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·870-0·898</td> - <td class="tdcbr">220</td> - <td class="tdcbr">-22</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Limetta</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·931</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Mace</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·890-0·950</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Marjoram</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·890-0·920</td> - <td class="tdcbr">163</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Melissa</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·855</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Neroli</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·889-0·889</td> - <td class="tdcbr">175</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">Forms crystals -16</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Nutmeg</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·880-0·948</td> - <td class="tdcbr">172</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Nutmeg butter</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">31</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Olibanum</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">162</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Orange, bitter</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·830-0·860</td> - <td class="tdcbr">176</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Orange, sweet</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·840-0·850</td> - <td class="tdcbr">176</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Parsley</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1·015</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Patchouly</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·950-1·012</td> - <td class="tdcbr">282-294</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Peppermint</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·902-0·930</td> - <td class="tdcbr">188-212</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Portugal (orange peel)</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·840-0·850</td> - <td class="tdcbr">176</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Rose</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·832</td> - <td class="tdcbr">229</td> - <td class="tdcbr">+14-20</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Rosemary</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·895-0·916</td> - <td class="tdcbr">185</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Rue</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·911</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Sage</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·902</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Santal</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·950-0·980</td> - <td class="tdcbr">288</td> - <td class="tdcbr">-22</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Sassafras</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1·082</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Serpyllum</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·890-0·920</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Star-anise</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·982</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Thyme</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·870-0·940</td> - <td class="tdcbr">170-180</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Vanilla</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">150</td> - <td class="tdcbr">76</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Vetiver</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1·007</td> - <td class="tdcbr">286</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Wintergreen</td> - <td class="tdcbr">1·180</td> - <td class="tdcbr">220</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Ylang-ylang</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·980</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Turpentine</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·855-0·870</td> - <td class="tdcbr">160</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr"></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Paraffin</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·870</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">Melts at 50-65</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Wax</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·960-0·970</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">Melts at 65-70</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdlbr">Spermaceti</td> - <td class="tdcbr">0·943</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">...</td> - <td class="tdcbr">Melts at 45-50</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>In buying essential oils, except it be from a house whose -reputation is a guaranty of their genuineness, it is to the interest -of the perfumer to make a test. He must look for certain -substances which are generally used for the sophistication of -essential oils. These are: A. Other essential oils; B. Fixed -oils; C. Alcohol; D. Paraffin, spermaceti, wax.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">143</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">A. Adulteration of Essential Oils with Other -Essential Oils.</span></h3> - -<p>This mode of adulteration, which is frequent, is naturally -the one most difficult of demonstration. In the case of cheap -oils such as those of caraway, lemon, orange peel, etc., rectified -oil of turpentine is almost without exception the adulterant. -The methods usually recommended, such as attempting -to dissolve out the oil of turpentine by strong alcohol, -hoping thus to separate it from the essential oil, are without -practical value.</p> - -<p>The adulteration can, however, often be demonstrated by -rubbing a drop of the suspected oil on a glass plate and testing -the odor, provided the olfactory organ is trained. As -the above table shows, the oils have different high boiling-points, -while oil of turpentine boils at a rather low temperature, -hence it evaporates sooner than the others and can be -demonstrated by its odor.</p> - -<p>The demonstration of an adulteration with an essential -oil is most certain by so-called fractional distillation. Some -of the oil to be examined (about four to six fluidrachms) is -placed in a small retort with condenser and heated to a temperature -a few degrees below the boiling-point of the oil in -question. If, for instance, oil of bergamot adulterated with -oil of turpentine is to be tested, it is heated carefully to -nearly 188° C. (370° F.), the boiling-point of the oil of bergamot; -the oil of turpentine which boils at 160° C. (320° F.) -passes over completely, while the oil of bergamot remains in -the retort.</p> - -<p>Fractional distillation is also the most reliable way of demonstrating -an adulteration with a fixed oil or with paraffin, -wax, or spermaceti. An adulteration of oil of lavender with -oil of spike-lavender, which is otherwise barely recognizable, -is positively shown by this method; even oil of geranium in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">144</span> -oil of rose, oil of cassia in oil of cinnamon, etc., may be thus -demonstrated.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">B. Adulteration of Essential Oils with Fixed Oils.</span></h3> - -<p>An addition of fixed oils can be easily demonstrated by -agitation of the oil with strong alcohol in which the essential -oil dissolves, while the fixed oil remains unchanged. Castor -oil, however, is likewise soluble in alcohol and for this reason -is frequently used for the adulteration of essential oils. Yet -the presence of a fixed oil can also be shown in a very simple -manner by placing a drop of the suspected oil upon white -paper and leaving it for some hours in a warm spot. If the -oil was pure, the translucent stain on the paper will disappear -completely (also when the oil was adulterated with turpentine); -but if it was mixed with a fixed oil, the stain will remain -permanently and cannot be removed from the paper even by -strong heat.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">C. Adulteration with Alcohol.</span></h3> - -<p>This frequent adulteration is demonstrated either by fractional -distillation, when the alcohol passes over first between -70° and 80° C. (158° and 176° F.), or by the use of -the vessel illustrated in Fig. 31, which is divided -into 100 equal parts.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<img src="images/i_144.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 31.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>The vessel is filled to the tenth division with -the oil to be tested, and water is added to bring -the volume to the 50 mark. If alcohol is present, -it is taken up by the water so that the volume of -oil appears to diminish. If the oil reaches to the -mark 7, it contained three volumes of alcohol, or -in other words it was mixed with thirty per cent -of alcohol. It is true, essential oils likewise dissolve -somewhat in water, but in such minute quantities as not -to affect the success of the test.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">145</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">D. Adulteration with Paraffin, Spermaceti, or Wax.</span></h3> - -<p>This mode of adulteration is practised mainly with viscid -oils which congeal at rather high temperatures, such as oils of -anise, rose, etc., the essential oils being usually mixed at the -same time with oil of turpentine or paraffin. The fraud is -easily detected by fractional distillation.</p> - -<p>Oil of bitter almonds is often adulterated with oil of mirbane; -this can be demonstrated by shaking 1 volume of the -oil with 17 volumes of alcohol of 45%, and setting the mixture -aside to settle. The nitrobenzol (oil of mirbane) will then -collect at the bottom. Oil of Rose may be tested as follows: -Mix the oil with an equal quantity of concentrated sulphuric -acid. Neither the color nor the odor of the oil should be -changed, but if oil of geranium was present a disagreeable -odor and a darker color is produced.</p> - -<p>It has been proposed, too, to test the oils by heating with -iodine or nitric acid and determining the purity by the reaction; -but the results with the different oils are so similar -that the test is almost worthless. We have had the same experience -with the test by nitro-prusside of copper which on -being heated with essential oils gives colored precipitates differing -with various oils, but still so similar that they cannot -be relied upon. We have found in all cases that a comparison -of an oil with a sample of known purity is the best, or else -the tests given in the preceding pages.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">146</span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.</a><br /> - -<small>THE ESSENCES OR EXTRACTS EMPLOYED IN -PERFUMERY.</small></h2> - - -<p>The term <em>essence</em> or <em>extract</em> in perfumery means a solution -of an aromatic substance in strong alcohol. These solutions -are generally made as concentrated as possible and in this -form find application in the manufacture of handkerchief perfumes -and of certain odors bearing a special name. The so-called -extrait d’œillet, extract of pink, or the favorite perfumes -known as new-mown hay have nothing in common with -either pink or hay except the name; like many other odors, -both are merely mixtures of different essences or extracts.</p> - -<p>Besides the manufacture of true perfumes, essences or extracts -are also used for scenting fine soaps, sachets, mouth -washes, etc. For the latter, too, use is often made of the so-called -aromatic waters (eaux aromatisées) which are obtained -as a by-product in the distillation of fragrant plants, and have a -very fine odor owing to the small amount of the aromatic -substance they hold in solution. To this class belong orange-flower -water (Aqua Naphæ triplex, eau de fleurs d’oranges), -peppermint water (Aqua Menthæ, eau de menthe), and many -others.</p> - -<p>Essences or extracts can be made in two ways: in the -case of aromatic substances which are obtainable in the pure -state—that is, essential oils—by dissolving them in strong -alcohol in definite proportions; in the case of aromatics combined -with a fatty substance by one of the processes described -above, by treating the pomade (lard, or other perfectly bland, -sweet, and in itself odorless fat combined with the aromatic)<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">147</span> -or huile antique (fixed oil holding the aromatic substance in -solution) with the strongest alcohol.</p> - -<p>According to the action of the alcohol upon the pomade -or huile antique at ordinary or higher temperature, the process -is called cold or warm infusion. Cold infusion furnishes -the odor in a much more delicate and superior form than the -warm. The cold infusion requires for complete solution of -the aromatic four to six weeks; the warm, ten to fourteen -days. Although the former consumes a much longer time, it -is to be preferred, as the heat injures the odor. Pomades or -huiles antiques are never completely exhausted by a single -treatment with alcohol. Even when heat is employed they -always retain a portion of the aromatic with great tenacity; -a second and third infusion still abstracts odor from them, -and finally nothing remains but pure fat with a pleasant odor -which is stained and sold commercially as pomade under the -name of the respective odor—violet, orange flower, reseda, -etc.—or else is used over again in the factory for the extraction -of flowers.</p> - -<p>Experience has shown us that it is best to infuse the pomades -or huiles antiques twice in the cold and to use the two -fluids united for the finest perfumes; the residue by warm infusion -furnishes an essence of second quality, and superior -pomades or fragrant oils. The infusion is generally effected -in strong glass bottles of a capacity of three to five gallons; -about five to six quarts of cologne spirit being poured over -six to eight pounds or pints of fat or huile antique.</p> - -<p>In treating huiles antiques all parts of the oil should be -brought into contact with the alcohol as much as possible, -hence the bottles must be frequently shaken; a better plan is -to bring the tightly closed bottles into an apparatus in which -they are constantly agitated by rotation. Such an apparatus -is easily made by placing the bottles in an inclined position -between two rods fastened to a common axis which is kept<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">148</span> -revolving. The adjoining illustration (Fig. 32) shows such a -contrivance which is required also in the manufacture of perfumes. -The rotation may be effected by clockwork, water -power, or any other motor.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_148.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 32.</span></div> -</div> - -<p>Pomades being solid must be divided into small pieces -which may be done with a knife, but the following procedure -is more suitable and less laborious. The pomade is placed -in a tin cylinder four inches wide and about a foot high, which -is open at one end, the other being closed with a tin plate -having several fine openings. The cylinder filled with pomade -is set upon the bottle containing the alcohol for extraction, -and the pomade is pressed through the openings in the -shape of thin threads by means of a piston.</p> - -<p>In this way, of course, the pomade acquires a very large -surface and rapidly yields the aromatic substance to the -alcohol. The odor of the pomade differs according to the -length of time which it has been subjected to the flowers, and -on being treated with alcohol furnishes extracts of corresponding -strength. This should be borne in mind in the manufacture -of perfumes which are intended to be uniform in -quality.</p> - -<p>After two cold and one warm infusion of the pomade, it -may be made to yield some more aromatic material by heating -it carefully to its exact melting-point, when extract again<span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">149</span> -appears on the surface and can be poured off by gentle inclination -of the vessel.</p> - -<p>In the following pages we give the proportions by weight -and measure employed by the most important French, English, -and German manufacturers for their pomade extracts or -solutions of the essential oils in alcohol. As to the latter we -again repeat that it must be over 88 to 90% strength according -to Tralles or even stronger, and that it must be absolutely free -from any trace of amyl alcohol (potato fusel oil), the least -amount of which impairs the delicacy of the odor. In this -country (the United States) there is no difficulty whatever in -obtaining alcohol of proper strength. The market offers -scarcely any other but that of 94%. Of course deodorized -alcohol, or so-called Cologne spirit should be used. Grain -and wine spirits are the kinds which when rectified are to be -preferred to all others. All the citron oils (<i>i.e.</i>, oils of lemon, -bergamot, and those with similar odor), rose oils (oils of rose, -geranium, and rhodium), and many other sweet scents are -most fragrant when dissolved in pure spirit of wine, while the -odors from the animal kingdom and those of violet (violet -and orris root) smell sweetest when dissolved in grain spirit.</p> - -<p>The essences prepared from pomades or huiles antiques -usually contain in solution some fat which is best removed by -cooling. To this end the vessels containing the essences are -placed in a vat and surrounded with pellets of ice and crystals -of chloride of calcium. By this mixture the temperature can -be reduced below-20° C. (-4° F.), and after some time the -fats are deposited in a solid form at the bottom of the vessel. -This is then taken from the vat and the essence carefully -poured from the sediment.</p> - -<p>The alcoholic extracts of the pomades or solutions of the -aromatics are called essences or extracts (French, extraits); -the solutions obtained from resins and balsams are usually -termed tinctures.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">150</span></p> - -<p>While some extracts, owing to their strong odor, can be -used only when diluted with alcohol, others are employed in -perfumes as such. Pure extracts (extraits purs) are those -containing only a single odor and are but rarely used as perfumes; -the latter are usually mixtures of several, often a great -many odors.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</a><br /> - -<small>DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE MOST IMPORTANT -ESSENCES AND EXTRACTS.</small></h2> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Note.</span>—There is considerable confusion, in works on perfumery, -regarding the terms <em>essence</em> and <em>extract</em>. In French -works, <i lang="fr">essence</i> always means “essential oil.” Thus “essence -de rose” is “essential oil of roses,” or “attar (otto) of roses.” -<i lang="fr">Extrait</i> (French) is used of alcoholic solutions of oils, as well -as alcoholic extracts of pomades, or of substances not wholly -soluble in alcohol, and also of compound liquids. In English, -<em>essence</em> is used, and should be confined to alcoholic solutions -of essential oils (“essence of lemon,” “essence of peppermint”). -It is, then, equivalent to the term “spirit,” which is -also used only of alcoholic solutions of essential oils or other -volatile substance (such as: spirit of peppermint, essence of -peppermint; spirit of camphor, etc.). Liquid alcoholic extracts -of substances not wholly soluble in alcohol are properly -called <em>tinctures</em> (for instance, tincture of benzoin, tincture of -musk); and liquid alcoholic extracts of pomades, or compound -odorous liquids, are best comprised under the general -term <em>extracts</em>.</p> - -<p>We shall employ the terms <em>essence</em>, <em>extract</em>, and <em>tincture</em> in -the sense here explained.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">151</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extract of Cassie (Extrait de Cassie).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cassie pomade</td> - <td align="left">6 lbs.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>Extract of cassie has a fine green color—a fact which is -not desirable in perfumes intended for the handkerchief because -colored preparations leave stains. However, extract of -cassie is rarely used pure, but is generally mixed with other -odors for handkerchief perfumes, whereby the color is so -much diluted that it may be disregarded. This extract—and -the same remark applies to all the others—immediately after -its preparation must be put into tightly closed vessels and -preserved in the coolest attainable dark place; for light, air, -and heat must be called the destroyers of perfumes, since the -most delightful odors eventually disappear under their influence.</p> - -<p>For the benefit of manufacturers who import this extract -from Southern France, the main source of supply, we may -add that the word cassie or extrait de cassie, derived from -the flowers of Acacia farnesiana, might readily give rise to -confusion with extrait de cassia, made from the bark of the -cinnamon cassia.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tincture of Ambergris (Extrait d’Ambregris).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Ambergris</td> - <td align="left">5 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>The ambergris should be broken into small pieces with a -chopping knife repeatedly moistened with alcohol, and allowed -to digest in the alcohol for some weeks at a temperature of -about 30° C. (86° F.).</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tincture of Benzoin (Extrait de Benjoin).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">10 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">152</span></p> - -<p>This tincture is not so much used for handkerchief perfumes -as for preserving many pomades, as it possesses the -valuable property of preventing fats from becoming rancid.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Essence of Bergamot (Extrait de Bergamotte).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">8 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tincture of Castor (Extrait de Castoreum).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Castor</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tincture of Musk Seed (Extrait d’Ambrette).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk seed, powdered</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Essence of Bitter Almond (Extrait d’Amande).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Essence of Calamus (Extrait de Glaïeul).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of calamus</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This essence has a pleasant odor, but it is not valued as a -true perfume; though if it is mixed with other essences or -extracts until its characteristic odor is no longer recognizable -it furnishes a very useful basis for many cheap articles.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Essence of Cedar (Extrait de Cèdre).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cedar wood</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This essence made from the oil is colorless and can be -used immediately for handkerchief perfumes.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tincture of Cedar (Extrait de Bois de Cèdre).</span></h3> - -<p>This is made by digesting finely rasped cedar wood with -strong alcohol, namely:</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">153</span></p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cedar wood chips</td> - <td align="left">6 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The result is a fragrant tincture with a beautiful deep red -color which cannot be employed for handkerchief perfumes, -but for many cosmetic preparations such as mouth washes -and for scenting soap.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Essence of Citronella.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extrait de citronella</td> - <td align="left">3 to 3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Essence of Lemon Grass (Extrait de Schoenanthe).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon grass</td> - <td align="left">2 to 3 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extract of Lilac (Extrait de Lilas).</span></h3> - -<p>The genuine is seldom made; the preparation sold under -this name consists of:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flowers, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">3 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of civet</td> - <td align="left">¼ pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Of late, extract of lilac is often prepared by means of -lilacin or terpineol, as follows:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lilacin</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Extract of Honeysuckle (Extrait de Chèvre-feuille).</span></p> - -<p>The author has made this extract by treating the pomade -prepared from the flowers of Lonicera Caprifolium, in the following -proportion:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Honeysuckle pomade</td> - <td align="left">6 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The commercial extract of this name is always a com<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">154</span>pound -which may be prepared according to the following -formula:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose, made from the pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of Tolu</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">8 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Essence of Geranium.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of geranium (rose-geranium)</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>In the commercial article the essence of lemon grass is -often substituted for the essence of geranium, the odor being -similar, though less delicate.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extract of Cucumber (Extrait de Concombres).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cucumbers</td> - <td align="left">8 lbs.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The cucumbers are peeled, cut into thin slices, and macerated -in the warm alcohol. If the odor is not strong enough -in the alcohol after some days, it is poured over some more -fresh slices, the macerated residue is expressed, and at the -end of the operation all the liquids are united and filtered.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extract of Heliotrope (Extrait de Héliotrope).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Heliotrope pomade</td> - <td align="left">6 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This has thus far been manufactured only by French perfumers -at very high prices; the great majority of the so-called -extracts of heliotrope are compounded from:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flowers, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">14 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">4 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This is used as a perfume as such.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">155</span></p> - -<p>More recently, piperonal, under the name heliotropin, is -used for making this extract—</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Heliotropin</td> - <td align="left">¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">1 Pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>It is necessary to blend this with various other aromatics -in order to cover the pronounced odor. A little cumarin is -usually of great help. But is it impossible, as yet, to give -reliable proportions which would suit all cases.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extract of Jasmine (Extrait de Jasmin).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Jasmine pomade</td> - <td align="left">6 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Essence of Lavender (Extrait de Lavande).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>A far superior essence may be prepared by the distillation -of:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">10 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The distillation is continued until one-half of the entire -liquid has passed over; the residue in the still furnishes an -essence of lavender of the second quality.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extract of Wallflower (Extrait de Giroflé).</span></h3> - -<p>The genuine odor can be made only from the pomade; the -commercial extract consists of:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla.</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">156</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extract of Lily (Extrait de Lys).</span></h3> - -<p>As to this delightful odor the remark made under the preceding -head applies likewise; artificial extract of lily consists -of:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">3 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">13½ fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">27 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">3 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">3 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">40½ fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Essence of Lemon (Extrait de Limon).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extract of Magnolia (Extrait de Magnolia).</span></h3> - -<p>This favorite perfume is a mixture of:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">4 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">40 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">16 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Essence of Peppermint (Extrait de Menthe).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of peppermint</td> - <td align="left">6½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tincture of Musk (Extrait de Musc).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This tincture is of special importance, not so much because -of its odor as on account of its useful property of fixing other -very volatile odors.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">157</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extract of Myrtle (Extrait de Myrte).</span></h3> - -<p>Owing to the small yield of essential oil furnished on distillation -by the myrtle and the comparatively high price of -the oil of myrtle, nearly all the extract of myrtle is prepared -artificially, as follows:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extract of Narcissus.</span></h3> - -<p>In perfumery, two extracts of narcissus are distinguished—true -extract of narcissus, from the flowers of the garden -plant, Narcissus poeticus, and the so-called extract of jonquille, -from Narcissus Jonquilla, which is cultivated in Southern -France and whose odor is obtained by maceration. Genuine -extract of narcissus is even more rarely obtainable than -extract of jonquille; the odors of both are imitated, mainly -according to the following prescriptions:</p> - - -<h4>1. <span class="smcap">Extract of Narcissus (Extrait de Narcisse).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jonquille, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">3 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of storax</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tolu</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4>2. <span class="smcap">Extract of Jonquille (Extrait de Jonquille).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Essence of Clove (Extrait de Clous de Girofles).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">158</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extract of Pink (Extrait d’Œillet).</span></h3> - -<p>This pleasant odor occurs in commerce only as an imitation.</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">2½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">2½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">5 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">20 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove, a sufficient quantity, about</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The oil of clove which determines the characteristic odor -of this extract is dissolved in a little alcohol; of this solution -enough is gradually added to the mixture until the odor has -become sufficiently strong.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extract of Orange Flower or Neroli (Extrait de -Fleurs d’Oranges, Extrait de Néroli).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orange-flower pomade</td> - <td align="left">6 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Or,</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil neroli pétale</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The latter preparation is also called “essence of neroli.”</p> - -<p>The extract prepared from the pomade furnishes this -highly esteemed odor of a delicacy never to be approached -by that made with oil. The alcoholic extract of the pomade -perfumed with the flowers of Syringa (Philadelphus coronarius) -also occurs in commerce as extract of orange flowers or neroli.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Essence of Patchouly (Extrait de Patchouli).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of patchouly</td> - <td align="left">1¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This pure essence of patchouly has not a very pleasant -odor; that made according to the following formula is far -superior.</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of patchouly</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">⅜ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">159</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tincture of Balsam of Peru (Extrait de Pérou).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Peru balsam</td> - <td align="left">10½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This tincture, though of a very pleasant odor, can be used -only for scenting soap or sachets, as it has a very dark brown -color; by distilling alcohol over Peru balsam a colorless extract -is obtained, though of a fainter odor.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Essence of Allspice (Extrait de Piment).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of allspice</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extract of Sweet Pea (Extrait de Pois de senteur).</span></h3> - -<p>This extract, made almost exclusively in Southern France -by maceration of the pomade, is but rarely met with in commerce; -what passes under this name is made as follows:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">2½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">2½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">2½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">5¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extract of Reseda (Extrait de Mignonette).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Reseda pomade</td> - <td align="left">5 to 6 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tolu</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The addition of the tincture of tolu is necessary here, -owing to the extraordinary volatility of the delightful odor of -mignonette, which is lessened by the addition of tincture of -tolu.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Essence or Extract of Rose (Extraits de Rose).</span></h3> - -<p>In commerce several sorts of essence or extract of rose -are distinguished; only the cheaper grades are made by direct -solution of the oil of rose in alcohol, the better grades are prepared -only from pomades. As the rose is the noblest of flow<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">160</span>ers, -so are these odors the most magnificent thus far produced -by the art of perfumery, since they are approached in delicacy -and fragrance only by the genuine extracts of orange flower -and violet. The so-called rose waters (eaux de rose) are best -obtained by distillation of fresh or salted rose leaves with water. -The preceding formulæ will show that both extract of rose -and rose water form important constituents of many compound -essences, hence these materials require special attention. In -the following pages we enumerate only those formulæ which -are acknowledged as the best and furnish the finest product. -As rose water likewise belongs among the rose odors we give -directions for its preparation, and observe in passing that the -precautions required in the manufacture of this one apply -also to all aromatic waters (eaux aromatisées). The first -essential to the production of a fine aromatic water is the employment -of the freshest possible flowers; when kept in stock, -chemical changes occur in the leaves which affect also the -aromatic constituents and lead to a deterioration of the fragrance. -Hence we urgently recommend to distil the freshly -gathered flowers as soon as possible, even if the quantity on -hand be small. Should this not be feasible, it is advisable to -press the flowers immediately after gathering in stone-ware -pots and to pour over them a saturated solution of table salt. -A concentrated saline solution prevents decomposition by -the abstraction of water; and thus larger quantities of flowers -may be gathered and distilled with the salt solution. The -majority of aromatic waters are prepared in this way, for instance, -rose, jasmine, lilac, and others. They enter less into -handkerchief perfumes than into various mouth and other -washes, and cosmetics in general.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Rose Water (Eau de Rose Triple).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose leaves</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water</td> - <td align="left">20 pints.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Mix them, and by means of steam, distil 10 pints.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">161</span></p> - -<p>The rose leaves are, of course, preferably to be used while -fresh. If they are to be preserved for future use, they should -be packed in stone-ware jars, and covered with a solution of -common salt. This is poured off before distillation, but used -over again for the same purpose.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Extract of Rose (Extrait de Roses Triple).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose pomade</td> - <td align="left">8 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Essence of [Oil of] Rose (Esprit de Roses Triple).</span></p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This essence is not so good as the extract.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Extract of China Roses (Essence de Roses jaunes).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tonka</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of verbena</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Extract of Sweet-Brier (Wild Rose) (Extrait -d’Eglantine).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">44 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">44 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">2½ qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">44 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon grass</td> - <td align="left">¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Extract of Moss-Rose (Extrait de Roses Mousseuses).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">162</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Extract of Tea-Rose (Extrait de Rosa théa).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of geranium, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of santal</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Extract of White Rose (Essence de Roses blanches).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of patchouly</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Extract of Twin-Roses (Essence de Roses jumelles).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extract of Santal (Extrait de Santal).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of santal</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">9 pints.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tincture of Storax (Essence de Styrax).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Storax</td> - <td align="left">10½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Though this tincture has a pleasant odor, it is not ordinarily -used by itself, but for fixing other odors.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tincture of Tolu (Extrait de Baume de Tolou).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tolu balsam</td> - <td align="left">10½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The remark made under tincture of storax applies also to -this.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">163</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tincture of Tonka (Extrait de Tonka).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tonka beans, crushed</td> - <td align="left">21 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extract of Tuberose (Extrait de Tuberose).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tuberose pomade</td> - <td align="left">8-10 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of storax</td> - <td align="left">10 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tincture of Vanilla (Extrait de Vanille).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vanilla, sliced</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extract of Violet (Extrait de Violette).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Violet pomade</td> - <td align="left">6-7 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">6½ fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This extract is very expensive; a good imitation is made -as follows:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tincture of Orris Root (Extrait d’Iris).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root, powdered</td> - <td align="left">6-7 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This tincture is sold as a very cheap violet perfume, but -it has also considerable value to perfumery in general, owing -to its fixing power.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extract of Verbena (Extrait de Verveine).</span></h3> - -<p>True oil of verbena is rather expensive. Hence artificial -compositions are employed under the name of verbena which -resemble the true odor, though not exactly like it.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">164</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extract of Verbena A.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon grass</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">14 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>This extract is cheap and is used immediately as a perfume. -The extract usually sold under the French name Extrait -de verveine is more expensive and far superior:</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extract of Verbena B.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">30 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">⅓ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of citron zeste</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon grass</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon peel</td> - <td align="left">9 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">4⅔ pints.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>As already explained, if hand-pressed oil of lemon (made -by the écuelle process) is available, then the “oil of citron -zeste” (which is <em>this</em> particular kind of oil) and the “oil of -lemon” may be simply added together; that is, 9½ oz. of oil -of lemon are used.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extract of Volcameria (Extrait de Volcameria).</span></h3> - -<p>This extract is no more derived from the fragrant blossom -whose name it bears than are those of the lily, pink, and others -met with in commerce. It is prepared according to the following -formula:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk.</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">165</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Essence of Vetiver (Extrait de Vétiver).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of vetiver</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Tincture of Olibanum (Extrait d’Oliban, Extrait -d’Encens).</span></p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Olibanum</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extract of Wintergreen (Extrait de Gaulthérie).</span></h3> - -<p>This essence is more commonly sold under the English -than the French name. Its composition is the following:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of lavender</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose, from pomade</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla.</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of vetiver</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tincture of Civet (Extrait de Civette).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Civet.</td> - <td align="left">1—1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root</td> - <td align="left">1—1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Tincture of civet is exceedingly lasting and is generally -employed for fixing other odors. As to the quantity required -to fix perfumes in general, we may state that it varies -with the nature of the odor. As a rule, about one-sixteenth -part of tincture of civet suffices for even the most volatile -perfumes.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tincture of Cinnamon (Extrait de Canelle).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">166</span></p> - -<p>Owing to the yellow color left upon handkerchiefs by perfumes -prepared with this extract, it can be used only for common -goods, but it is more frequently employed for scenting -soaps.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.</a><br /> - -<small>THE DIVISION OF PERFUMERY.</small></h2> - - -<p>According to the purposes for which they are intended, -the various articles of perfumery may be divided into several -groups. They are:</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">True Perfumes.</span></h3> - -<p>A. <i>Liquid.</i>—Alcoholic handkerchief perfumes. Among -these are the so-called extracts, bouquets, and waters. Ammoniacal -and acid perfumes: aromatic vinegars and volatile -ammoniacal salts.</p> - -<p>B. <i>Dry.</i>—Sachet powders, fumigating pastils and powders.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Preparations for the Care of the Skin.</span></h3> - -<p>Emulsions, crêmes, perfumed soaps, toilet waters, nail -powders.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Preparations for the Care of the Hair.</span></h3> - -<p>Hair oils, pomades, hair washes.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Preparations for the Care of the Mouth.</span></p> - -<p>Tooth powders, mouth washes.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Cosmetics.</span></h3> - -<p>Paints, powders, hair dyes, depilatories, etc.</p> - -<p>In connection with the description of these different articles -some remarks will be made about the colors employed in -perfumery and about the utensils used with the cosmetics, -such as combs, brushes, sponges, etc.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">167</span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII.</a><br /> - -<small>THE MANUFACTURE OF HANDKERCHIEF PERFUMES, -BOUQUETS, OR AROMATIC WATERS.</small></h2> - - -<p>The manufacture of handkerchief perfumes is very simple: -the extracts prepared as directed in Chapter XI. are -mixed in definite proportions and the perfume is finished. If -the extracts are well seasoned, the perfumes blend in perfect -harmony within a few days, and this time may be even shortened -by the use of the apparatus illustrated in Fig. 32. If -the extracts have been but recently prepared, a longer time -will be required before the odor of the alcohol and the several -constituents is imperceptible and all odors have blended -into a harmonious whole.</p> - -<p>If the manufacturer can afford to allow the finished extracts -and perfumes to season for some length of time—of -course, in well-closed and completely filled vessels—in a cool -place, they will improve markedly in quality. Perfumes which -contain but a single odor or in which a certain odor distinctly -predominates are usually called by the name of the respective -plant, etc., under a French title, <i>e.g.</i>, extrait de violette, extrait -de reséda, etc. Combinations of many odors which produce -an agreeable impression as a whole, while no one odor predominates, -are called bouquets or waters; for instance, Bouquet -de Jockey Club, Eau de Mille Fleurs, Cologne Water, Hungarian -Water, etc.</p> - -<p>The mixture of the extracts is effected in strong glass bottles -of a capacity exactly adapted to the perfume, so as to be -completely filled. For perfumes which require seasoning to -make the odors blend we use small glass balls of which enough<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">168</span> -are introduced into the bottle to make the mixture rise into -the neck of the container which is then closed air-tight and -preserved in a dark, cool place.</p> - -<p>Of course, all perfumes should be perfectly clear and free -from turbidity. The extracts made from pomades or essential -oils are clear and furnish perfumes that remain so; extracts -prepared from balsams or resins should be allowed to stand -at rest for several weeks and then be carefully decanted from -the sediment. Filtration should be dispensed with unless absolutely -unavoidable, on account of the large amount of oxygen -with which the extract would thereby come in contact, to -the detriment of the odor.</p> - -<p>The bottles in which the perfumes are mixed, as well as -those in which they are put up for sale, must be perfectly -dry, as a very small amount of water often suffices to separate -a portion of the aromatics and to render the liquid turbid or -opalescent.</p> - -<p>Fine perfumes are always sold in glass vessels with ground-glass -stoppers; cork has a peculiar odor which it would communicate -to the liquid. For the more perfect exclusion of -the air the stoppers and bottle necks are moreover covered -with animal membrane, sheet rubber, or vegetable parchment, -with an outer cap of white glove leather.</p> - -<p>In the case of very expensive perfumes, much care is bestowed -on the container; certain perfumes are filled into bottles -of peculiar form and color, or into small porcelain jars -provided with corresponding labels printed in gold and colors. -Sometimes the container costs many times the price of the -perfume. But as the finest perfumes are articles of luxury in -the truest sense of the word, they require extreme care in -their putting up; and good taste in the selection of the containers -for fluids, pomades, cosmetics, powders, etc., is of as -much importance to the perfumer as the possession of a sensitive -and trained olfactory organ.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">169</span></p> - -<p>In the following formulas for the preparation of bouquets, -the words extract, essence, and tincture have the same meaning -as was explained under Chapter XI. For cheap perfumes -the corresponding essential oils dissolved in alcohol, that is, -the corresponding “essence,” is employed in place of the true -“extract.”</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV.</a><br /> - -<small>FORMULAS FOR HANDKERCHIEF PERFUMES.</small></h2> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bouquet de l’Alhambra.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of geranium</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of civet</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extrait d’Ambre, I.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">3 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">1½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">13½ fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">3 pints.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extrait d’Ambre, II.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">4 qts</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bouquet de l’Amour.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">170</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Baisers du Printemps (Spring Kisses).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">3 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">6 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">5 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">5 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">10 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">120 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><i>Note.</i> Here and in all succeeding formulas, “oil of lemon” -is meant to be the finest “hand-pressed” oil.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Eau de Berlin.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of anise</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cardamom</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of coriander</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of geranium</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of melissa</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of santal</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of thyme</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">10 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Buckingham Flowers.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">40 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">40 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">171</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bouquet d’Andorre.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of geranium</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bouquet du Bosphore.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of civet</td> - <td align="left">18 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bouquet des Chasseurs.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">20 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">20 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of neroli</td> - <td align="left">20 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">20 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tonka bean</td> - <td align="left">40 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">20 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">5 pints.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bouquet de la Cour.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">2 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">2 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">45 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon.</td> - <td align="left">45 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">45 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">172</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bouquet de Chypre.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tonka</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bouquet des Délices.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bouquet de Fleurs (Nosegay).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of benzoin</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">3 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">3 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">3 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Convallaria (Lily of the Valley, Fleurs de Mai).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">1½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">3 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">⅜ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>While this perfume is very pleasant, its odor has no resemblance -to the delicate fragrance of Convallaria majalis, our -ordinary lily of the valley.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">173</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Couronne de Fleurs (Garland of Flowers).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">20 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">13½ fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">20 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">13½ fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">5 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 pints.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Court Bouquet.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">⅜ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">24 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Storax, liquid</td> - <td align="left">8 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">3 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Macerate for two weeks, and filter.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Esterhazy Bouquets.</span></h3> - -<p>An old renowned perfume, a former rival of Cologne water; -the name is derived from a noble Hungarian family.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">A. Bouquet d’Esterhazy (French formula).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of neroli</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tonka</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vetiver</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of santal</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">174</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">B. Bouquet Esterhazy (German formula).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Calamus root</td> - <td align="left">3 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cloves</td> - <td align="left">3 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Nutmeg</td> - <td align="left">3 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">4 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Macerate for two weeks and filter; in the filtrate dissolve:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">6 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Ammonia</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">3 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">6 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">60 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Cèdre du Libanon (Cedar).</span></h3> - - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cedar wood</td> - <td align="left">10½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Fiori d’Italia.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">5 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">5 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Lilac (Extrait de Lilas).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">3 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of civet</td> - <td align="left">2 to 3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The above-named ingredients are exceedingly volatile; -according to the desired permanence of the perfume, more or -less of the extract of civet is added.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">175</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Essence des Bouquets, A (Ess. Bouquet).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Ess. Bouquet, B.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cassia</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of palmarosa</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of petit grain</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of Portugal</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of thyme</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">10 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This perfume is much admired in England. The title Ess. -Bouquet is an abbreviation of the full name given above.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Ess. Bouquet, C.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">2 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris</td> - <td align="left">8 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Florida.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">60 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">90 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">8 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">176</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bouquet de Flore.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of benzoin</td> - <td align="left">3 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of storax</td> - <td align="left">3 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">1½ fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of citronella</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Honeysuckle (Extrait de Chèvre-feuille).</span></p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tolu</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">8 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Heliotrope, A (Extrait de Héliotrope).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">14 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">4 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>A very lasting perfume which is especially suitable for -scenting the linen in a press.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Heliotrope, B.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vanilla</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">2 drops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">1 drop.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">1½ grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">45 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cologne spirit</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Macerate for one week, and filter.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">177</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">New-Mown Hay.</span></h3> - -<p>Hay owes its fragrance partly to cumarin, which is present -in many plants, but in especially large amount in tonka -beans. Hence all similar perfumes must contain tincture of -tonka. Other aromatic substances, however, contribute to -the odor of hay, but the cumarin gives, as it were, the keynote -to its real odor.</p> - -<p>A very pleasant perfume is made after the following formula:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of geranium</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tonka</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Some add to this perfume 1 pint of extract of cassie which -imparts a greenish color to it.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Royal Horse-Guard’s Bouquet.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">20 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">10 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">5 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">20 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">20 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">120 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bouquet d’Irlande.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of white rose</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>An exceedingly fine perfume.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Hovenia.</span></h3> - -<p>This plant, Hovenia dulcis, indigenous to Japan, has a -peculiar odor, which, however, is not pleasant to European -taste. The perfume sold under this name has a special odor,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">178</span> -though it differs from that of the plant. It is made according -to the following formula:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">3 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Huntsman’s Nosegay.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">6 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">6 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tonka</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of citronella</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">3 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bouquet du Japon.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of patchouly</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of verbena</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of vetiver</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of civet</td> - <td align="left">3 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk.</td> - <td align="left">⅓ fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Eau Japonaise.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of cedar wood</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of patchouly</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of santal</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of verbena</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of vetiver</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Jockey Club.</span></h3> - -<p>England first introduced a perfume under this name, which -soon became popular and was largely imitated. Jockey Club -perfume is among the finest known to the trade; the delicacy<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">179</span> -of its odor rests largely on the extracts of cassie and tuberose -which are employed in their strongest form—an alcoholic extract -of a pomade well charged with the odors of the plants. -As in the case of Cologne water, there are a number of widely -diverging formulas for its preparation, from which we select -a few which furnish excellent perfumes.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Jockey Club, A (English formula).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">¾ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">¾ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">3 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Jockey Club, B (French formula).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">2¼ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">3 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">3 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of civet</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Jockey Club, C (German formula).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">13½ fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of civet</td> - <td align="left">20 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of citronella</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Jonquille (Extrait de Jonquille).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">180</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Kiss me Quick.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of narcissus (Jonquille)</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tonka</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of civet</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of citronella</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon grass</td> - <td align="left">45 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This perfume, which was once very popular, owes its peculiar -refreshing odor to the tincture of tonka beans; by increasing -this ingredient the specific odor can be made more -pronounced.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bouquet Cosmopolite.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of lavender</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of patachouly</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of santal</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of citronella</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Cologne Water (Eau de Cologne).</span></h3> - -<p>This famous perfume, which was first made in Cologne on -the Rhine, its formula being kept secret, can be produced -anywhere of the same quality as the original. In order to -obtain a first-class product, it is necessary, besides using the -finest oils—a matter of course for all fine perfumes—to observe -another special point. Every Cologne water contains oils of -the citron group which develop their best odors only in true<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">181</span> -spirit of <em>wine</em>. Unless an alcohol distilled from <em>wine</em> is used, -it will be impossible to make a Cologne water of really first -quality. While it is possible to make a good cologne with -grain or potato spirit, especially if highly rectified, comparison -with one prepared from pure spirit of <em>wine</em> will at once -show a marked difference. The small amount of œnanthic -ether, hardly demonstrable by chemical tests but present in -every spirit of wine, exerts a decided influence on the flavor.</p> - -<p>Cologne water of the most superior and incomparable quality -is made by dissolving the essential oils, excepting the oils -of rosemary and neroli, in the alcohol and distilling it, the -other oils being added to the distillate.</p> - -<p>A very large number of formulas for the preparation of -Cologne water have been published of which we subjoin a -few. We have purposely omitted those containing many -essential oils, as experience has taught us that they are of little -value; for it is not the number of oils that determines the -fineness of a perfume, but the manner in which certain odors -are combined.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">A. Finest Cologne Water (Eau de Cologne Supérieure).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon (hand-pressed)</td> - <td align="left">6 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli pétale</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli bigarade</td> - <td align="left">1¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rosemary</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">30 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">B. Cologne Water (Second Quality).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli pétale</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of petit grain</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rosemary</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">30 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">182</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">C. Cologne Water (ordinary).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">30 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">D. Cologne Water.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rosemary</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">30 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">E. Cologne Water.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">2 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of melissa</td> - <td align="left">¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">30 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">F. Cologne Water.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of melissa</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">30 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">G. Cologne Water.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">6½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of petit grain</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rosemary</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">30 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">183</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">H. Cologne Water.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cajuput</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">6½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">2¼oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of petit grain</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orange-flower water</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">30 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> -<p>The numerous formulas show that oils of lemon, bergamot, -and orange form normal constituents of every Cologne water; -the finer grades always contain, in addition, oils of rosemary -and neroli. It is advisable to dissolve the aromatics in very -strong alcohol and then to effect the dilution required with -orange-flower or rose water. This dilution is also to be employed -when a cheaper product is desired.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Lavender Perfumes.</span></h3> - -<p>English (Mitcham) oil of lavender should always be used -when it is desired to produce perfumes of first quality.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Eau de Lavande Ambrée.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of geranium</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">8 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Peru balsam</td> - <td align="left">2 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Storax</td> - <td align="left">4¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Civet</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">10 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The essential oils are dissolved in the alcohol, the other -substances are macerated in the solution for one month, and -the liquid decanted.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">184</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Eau de Lavande Double.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">3 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">3 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of civet</td> - <td align="left">3 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">10 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Eau de Lavande a Mille Fleurs.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of lavender</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Eau de mille fleurs (see below, page 186)</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Leap-year Bouquet.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">3 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of patchouly</td> - <td align="left">1½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of santal</td> - <td align="left">1½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of verbena</td> - <td align="left">6½ fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of vetiver</td> - <td align="left">1½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1½ pints.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Eau de Leipsic.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rosemary</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orange-flower water</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">9 pints.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Wallflower (Extrait de Giroflé).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">8 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">185</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Lily (Extrait de Lys).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">3 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">13½ fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">27 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">3 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">40 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Eau de Lisbonne.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Magnolia (Extrait de Magnolia).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">4 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">40 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Lily of the Valley.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of neroli</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">14 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">28 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">28 oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Lily of the Valley Extract.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of ylang-ylang (see below, p. 198)</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cardamom seed, crushed</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orris</td> - <td align="left">10 drops.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Macerate for a week, and filter.</p> - -<p>The amount of cardamom seed is to be weighed exactly;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">186</span> -should its odor still be too pronounced, extract of jasmine -should be gradually added until the right aroma is obtained.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bouquet a la Maréchale.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of neroli</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tonka</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of vetiver</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of santal</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">A la Mode.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of civet</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of nutmeg</td> - <td align="left">60 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">A. Eau de Mille Fleurs.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of cedar</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">6 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of neroli</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of patchouly</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of vetiver</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of civet</td> - <td align="left">6 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of geranium</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">187</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">B. Eau de Mille Fleurs.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of cedar</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (simple)</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">24 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">24 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">24 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">C. Eau de Mille Fleurs a Palmarose.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">6 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of cedar</td> - <td align="left">3 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">3 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">6 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cedar</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of palmarosa</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">9 pints.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Fleurs de Montpellier.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">10 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">10 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">3 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">3 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">3 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">188</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Fleurs des Champs.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tonka</td> - <td align="left">3 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of geranium</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">⅞ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">3 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Huile de Mille Fleurs.</span></h3> - -<p>(For perfuming hair oils and pomades.)</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">10 drops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">20 drops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">20 drops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">—</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of calamus</td> - <td align="left">20 drops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of geranium</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of verbena</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Musk (Extrait de Musc).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">3 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">3 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1½ pints.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Mousseline.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Bouquet à la maréchale</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of santal</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">189</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Myrtle (Extrait de Myrthe).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Narcissus (Extrait de Narcisse).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jonquille</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">3 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of storax</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tolu</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Navy’s Nosegay.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of patchouly</td> - <td align="left">3 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of verbena</td> - <td align="left">6 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of vetiver</td> - <td align="left">6 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of citronella</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of nutmeg</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">New-Mown Hay.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tonka beans, in pieces</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vanillin</td> - <td align="left">8 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">30 drops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">2 drops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">2 drops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">2 drops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">1 drop.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Patchouly herb</td> - <td align="left">3 grains</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoic acid</td> - <td align="left">8 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Nettle herb</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">7½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Digest for two weeks, and filter.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">190</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Pink (Extrait d’Œillet).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">2½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">2½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">5 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">20 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Essence of Sweet Pea.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Polyanthus.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">2½ fl. drachms.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Eau du Portugal.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Queen Victoria’s Perfume.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">10 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">5 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">20 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">2½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">5 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of civet</td> - <td align="left">3 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of citron</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">191</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Patchouly (Extrait de Patchouli).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of patchouly</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Essence of Reseda.</span></h3> - -<p>(Artificial, almost indistinguishable from the genuine.)</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tonka beans, in pieces</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Storax, liquid</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">10 drops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">10 drops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">2 drops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">20 drops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Ambergris</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">8 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Nettle herb</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Macerate for from one to two weeks, and filter.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Rondeletia Odoratissima.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">4¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">4¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">4¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">1¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">4 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>The odor of Rondeletia has not thus far been isolated, at -least in Europe (the plant is indigenous to the Antilles). The -oils of lavender and clove together constitute the odor known -in perfumery as Rondeletia. By increasing the quantity of -the two oils, the strength of the perfume may be heightened.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">192</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Royal Nosegay.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">3 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of vetiver</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Rose Odors.</span></h3> - -<p>The art of perfumery has endeavored to fix this most -magnificent of all odors, and we must confess that in this case -it has succeeded in solving the problem in a manner unequalled -in any other perfume. We are able to imitate not only the -pure rose odor, but also those of its several varieties such as -the tea rose, moss rose, etc., both as to character and intensity. -Fine rose odors can be produced in their full fragrance -only from pomade extracts; the various rose oils furnish inferior -products.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Rosa Centifolia, A (Finest Quality).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose pomade</td> - <td align="left">8 lbs.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Rose, B (less fine).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">China Rose (Roses Jaunes).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tonka</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of verbena</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">193</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Dog Rose (Eglantine).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">2½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">2½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">5 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">2½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon-grass</td> - <td align="left">¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Moss Rose (Rose Mousseuse).</span></h4> - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Tea Rose (Rose Théa).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of geranium</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of santal</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">White Rose (Roses Blanches).</span></h4> - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of patchouly</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">White Rose.</span></h4> - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">15 drops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Patchouly herb</td> - <td align="left">3 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">3 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cologne spirit</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Twin Rose (Roses Jumelles).</span></h4> - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">194</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Spring Nosegay.</span></h3> - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">13½ fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of geranium</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">10 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Suave.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">¼ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">¼ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">¾ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of mace</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Heliotrope Bouquet (Fleurs Solsticiales).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">13½ fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">5 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">2½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">5 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">5 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">2½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of verbena</td> - <td align="left">13½ fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">2½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bouquet de Stamboul.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">2½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of civet</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">195</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Syringa.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of reseda</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Patchouly herb</td> - <td align="left">5 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoic acid</td> - <td align="left">8 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orris</td> - <td align="left">10 drops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tulipe Odoriférante.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">6 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Hungarian Water (Eau Hongroise).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of melissa</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of peppermint</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rosemary</td> - <td align="left">2 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol (from wine)</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bouquet de Virginie.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of geranium</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of santal</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tonka</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Violet (Violettes).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Violet pomade</td> - <td align="left">6 to 7 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">6 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">196</span></p> - - -<p>This is the finest among the true violet perfumes. Less -fine, though still of prime quality, is the following:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Verbena A (Extrait de Verveine).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon grass</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">14 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>A cheap and pleasant perfume: the following is far superior.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Verbena B.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">10½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon grass</td> - <td align="left">6 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">5 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">3 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This “Extract of Verbena B” is a modification of that -given previously, on page 164.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Extrait de Verveine C.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">30 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">30 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon grass</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">¼ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">4½ pints.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">197</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Violettes des Montagnes.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">13½ fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">13½ fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">13½ fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">13½ fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Volcameria.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Forest Breeze (Pine-Needle Odor.)</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of turpentine</td> - <td align="left">14 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon grass</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The oil of turpentine must be clear like water, and most -carefully rectified. If it can be obtained of good quality, the -oil distilled from the leaves or needles of Pinus sylvestris, -commonly known as pine-needle oil or fir-wool oil, is to be -preferred for this purpose. Still better is the oil obtained -from Pinus Pumilio.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">West End.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">½ pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of violet</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">3 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">198</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Wintergreen.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of lavender</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of vetiver</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Flowers of the Isle of Wight.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of santal</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of vetiver</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Yacht Club.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">6 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of santal</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoic acid, sublimed</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The characteristic odor of this perfume depends upon the -volatile oil adhering to the sublimed benzoic acid; for this -reason no other benzoic acid should be used than that obtained -by sublimation.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Ylang-Ylang.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cologne water</td> - <td align="left">4 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tolu</td> - <td align="left">14 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of ylang-ylang</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Appendix.</span></h3> - -<p>The great majority of the above-described perfumes are -made with extracts prepared from pomades; hence their cost<span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">199</span> -of production is considerable and the selling-price high. For -the requirements of the middle classes, quite fragrant perfumes -are manufactured by dissolving the cheaper essential -oils in ordinary alcohol, and various new odors can be obtained -by mixing several of them. The extracts made with -cheap oils are well suited to this purpose. The oils most frequently -used for such articles are those of bergamot, lemon, -orange peel, lavender flowers (French), lemon grass, nutmeg, -clove, and santal. The alcohol must be free from fusel oil -and have a strength of at least 70% Tralles.</p> - -<p>Oils with not very intense odor are generally used in the -proportion of about 2 to 2½ ounces to the quart of alcohol; -half that quantity will suffice for strong-scented oils such as -those of lemon-grass, clove, and nutmeg.</p> - -<p>From these simple solutions an experienced manufacturer -can produce very nice perfumes by mixing them in due proportions; -they are comparatively cheap, and sometimes they -yield relatively more profit than the finest articles, whose contents -and containers generally represent a considerable outlay -on the part of the manufacturer.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV.</a><br /> - -<small>AMMONIACAL AND ACID PERFUMES.</small></h2> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">A. Ammoniacal Perfumes.</span></h3> - -<p>Ammonia (ammonia water) has a disagreeable odor and -exerts a very caustic effect on the lachrymal glands. Despite -these properties, ammonia, in a highly dilute condition and -mixed with other aromatics, finds manifold application in perfumery -and serves particularly for the manufacture of the so-called -smelling salts, or inexhaustible salts, used for filling -smelling bottles.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">200</span></p> - -<p>The liquid or caustic ammonia, however, is not so suitable -for the purposes of the perfumer as the carbonate of ammonia, -which when pure forms colorless crystals usually covered with -a white dust (consisting of bicarbonate of ammonia); these, -undergoing gradual decomposition, give off the odor of ammonia -and hence are more lasting in smelling bottles than -the pure liquid ammonia.</p> - -<p>The main essential for both of these substances is purity. -Caustic ammonia as well as carbonate of ammonia are now -obtained on a large scale from “gas liquor,” but the crude -products always retain some of the penetrating odor of coal -tar which renders them valueless for the purposes of the perfumer. -We must, therefore, make it a rule to use nothing -but perfectly pure materials which, moreover, are easily to be -had in the market.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Inexhaustible Salt (Sel Inépuisable).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">24 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">45 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of mace</td> - <td align="left">24 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">24 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rosemary</td> - <td align="left">45 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water of ammonia</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The aromatics are placed in a bottle, the ammonia is added, -and the bottle vigorously shaken; the solution is soon effected, -and the turbid liquid can be at once filled into bottles.</p> - -<p>According to the material from which the containers are -made, different methods must be adopted. It is necessary -to give the liquid such form as to prevent its flowing out -when the vessel is inverted; this is important, as the bottles -are often carried in dress pockets and the ammonia destroys -most colors. As a rule the vessels are filled with -indifferent porous substances which are moistened with -the perfume. If the container is made of box wood, ivory, -porcelain, or some other opaque material, it is filled with fibres<span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">201</span> -of asbestos or with very small pieces of sponge, and as much -perfume is poured in as the substance can take up; the vessels -are then inverted into a porcelain plate and allowed to -drain, and are finally closed with a loose plug of cotton. If -the container is transparent, it is better to use, instead of the -asbestos or sponge which do not look neat, either small pieces -of white pumice stone, powdered glass, small white glass beads, -or crystals of sulphate of potassium which is insoluble in the -perfume.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">White Smelling Salt (Sel Blanc Parfumé).</span></h4> - -<p>While the first-named ammoniacal preparation is called a -salt, it is really nothing but perfumed caustic ammonia; but -white smelling salt is what its name indicates and can be perfumed -as desired by the consumer; but as only certain scents -harmonize with ammonia, not every odor can be employed; -the most appropriate are oils whose odor resembles that of -rose, and the oils of nutmeg and cinnamon.</p> - -<p>Mix in a large porcelain jar—</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Carbonate of ammonia</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Caustic ammonia</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Cover the jar and leave it at rest. After some days the -mixture will have changed into a firm mass of monocarbonate -of ammonia which is rubbed to a coarse powder, perfumed, -and filled into bottles. The above quantities require:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of nutmeg</td> - <td align="left">8 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">8 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">8 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The oils are poured into a mortar and rubbed up with -about one-tenth of the salt; of this perfumed salt enough is -added to the several portions of the mass, and triturated until<span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">202</span> -the odor is equally distributed. For cheaper smelling salts -oils of geranium and cassia may be substituted for the oils of -rose and cinnamon.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Preston Salt (Sel Volatil).</span></h4> - -<p>In this perfume ammonia is continually generated; the -salt is prepared by mixing chloride of ammonium or sal-ammoniac -in fine powder with freshly slaked lime. Fine or -cheap perfume is added, according to the grade desired. -The mixture of sal-ammoniac and slaked lime continually develops -small amounts of ammonia—it takes a long time until -the decomposition is complete, and for this reason a bottle -filled with Preston salt retains the odor of ammonia for several -years.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Eau de Luce.</span></h4> - -<p>This is the only ammoniacal perfume used in a liquid -form. It is made according to the following formula:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">10½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of benzoin</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water of ammonia</td> - <td align="left">1½ lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The tinctures are mixed with the ammonia by agitation -and immediately filled into bottles; the liquid should have a -milky appearance. At times 150 grains of white soap is added -which aids in imparting to the liquid the desired milky appearance. -In fine eau de Luce the odor of ambergris should -predominate; this can be easily effected by increasing the -amount of tincture of ambergris.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">B. Acid Perfumes.</span></h3> - -<p>As there is a group of perfumes which is distinguished by -their characteristic odor of ammonia and which we have therefore -called ammoniacal, so there is an important series of arti<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">203</span>cles -containing acetic acid which are used cosmetically as -so-called toilet vinegars, and in some washes.</p> - -<p>Ordinary vinegar, <i>i.e.</i>, water containing four to six per -cent of acetic acid, has, as is well known, a not unpleasant -refreshing odor and a pure acid taste. Pure acetic acid, now -made in large quantities and of excellent quality, is known -commercially as glacial acetic acid. In commerce, it is customary -to designate any acetic acid containing 85 or more -per cent of the absolute acid, as glacial acetic acid. In chemical -or pharmacopœial nomenclature, however, the glacial acid -is meant to be as near 100% as possible. In perfumery, an 85% -acid is sufficiently strong. It forms a colorless liquid with a -narcotic odor and an intensely acid taste; it congeals into -glassy crystals at a temperature of 8.5° C. (47° F.). The latter -property is of importance as showing the purity of the acid. -Concentrated acetic acid, like alcohol, dissolves aromatic substances, -with which it forms perfumes which differ from those -made with alcohol mainly by their peculiar refreshing after-odor -which is due to the acetic acid.</p> - -<p>Acetic acid can be saturated with various odors and thus -furnish fine perfumes; but for so-called toilet vinegars which -are used as washes the acetic acid must be properly diluted, -since the concentrated acid has pronounced caustic properties, -reddens the skin, and may even produce destructive effects -on sensitive parts such as the lips.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Aromatic Vinegar (Vinaigre Aromatique).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Glacial acetic acid</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Camphor</td> - <td align="left">4¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of mace</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rosemary</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Instead of the perfumes here given, finer odors may be -employed for the production of superior toilet vinegars; thus<span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">204</span> -we find vinaigre ambré, au musc, à la violette, au jasmin, etc., -according to the perfume used. As concentrated acetic acid -dissolves most aromatic substances the same as alcohol, all -alcoholic perfumes may have their counterparts in acetic acid; -but the aromatics should never be added in so large amount -as to mask the characteristic odor of the acetic acid. A very -pleasant vinegar may be produced by combining an alcoholic -with an acid perfume, as in the following:</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Spiced Vinegar (Vinaigre aux Épices).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">1. Macerate:</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Leaves of geranium, lavender, peppermint,</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 3em;">rosemary, and sage, of each</span></td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">In alcohol of 80%</span></td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">2. Macerate:</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Angelica root, calamus root, camphor,</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 3em;">mace, nutmeg, cloves, of each</span></td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">In glacial acetic acid</span></td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>for two weeks, mix the liquids, and filter them into a bottle -which should not be completely filled. The longer this mixture -is allowed to season in the bottle, the finer will be the -aroma; for in the course of time the alcohol and acetic acid -react on each other and form acetic ether, which likewise possesses -a pleasant aromatic odor.</p> - -<p>Certain aromatic vinegars, like ammoniacal perfumes, are -filled into smelling bottles containing the same porous substances -for their absorption, namely, sponge, pumice stone, -crystals of potassium sulphate, etc.</p> - - -<h3>FORMULAS FOR TOILET VINEGARS.</h3> - -<h4><span class="smcap">Vinaigre a la Rose.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">10½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">White-wine vinegar</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This should be colored a pale rose tint with one of the dye-stuffs -to be enumerated hereafter. The use of true wine vine<span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">205</span>gar -is to be recommended for this and all the following toilet -vinegars, as the œnanthic ether it contains has a favorable -effect on the fineness of the odor.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Vinaigre aux Fleurs d’Oranges.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">White-wine vinegar</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This is usually left colorless.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Vinaigre aux Violettes.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">8 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">White-wine vinegar</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Vinaigre de Quatre Voleurs.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Leaves of lavender, peppermint, rue, rosemary,</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 1em;">and cinnamon, of each </span></td> - <td align="left">3¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Calamus, mace, nutmeg, of each</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Camphor</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Macerated in alcohol</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">And acetic acid</td> - <td align="left">4¾ lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Preventive Vinegar (Vinaigre Hygiénique).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lavender</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cloves</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Marjoram</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">White-wine vinegar</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Macerate the solids with the alcohol and vinegar.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Vinaigre de Cologne.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cologne water</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Glacial acetic acid</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">206</span></p> - -<p>As this vinegar is made by mixing an alcoholic perfume -with acetic acid, so all other alcoholic perfumes may be employed -for a like purpose; but the quantities must be determined -by experiment, for the various aromatics differ in the -intensity of their odor.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Vinaigre étheré.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Glacial acetic acid</td> - <td align="left">14 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Acetic ether</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Nitrous ether</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The water should be added after the ethers have been dissolved -in the glacial acetic acid.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Vinaigre de Lavande.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lavender water</td> - <td align="left">4 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Glacial acetic acid</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>To be stained a bluish color with indigo-carmine.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Orange-Flower Vinegar.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orange-flower water</td> - <td align="left">4 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Glacial acetic acid</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Mallard’s Toilet Vinegar.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of benzoin</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tolu</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rosemary</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Concentrated acetic acid</td> - <td align="left">21 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">4¾ lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">207</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Toilet Vinegar (French Formula).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">8 drops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">5 drops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vanillin</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Concentrated acetic acid</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Macerate for two weeks, and filter.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Vinaigre Polyanthe.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Glacial acetic acid</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of benzoin</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tolu</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of geranium</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>To be stained with tincture of krameria (rhatany).</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI.</a><br /> - -<small>DRY-PERFUMES.</small></h2> - - -<p>As a matter of course, dry perfumes are of greater antiquity -than fluid; aromatic substances require merely to be -dried in order to retain their fragrance permanently. The -oldest civilized people known in history—Egyptians, Assyrians, -Persians, Babylonians, and the Jews, as numerous passages -in the Bible prove—used dried portions of plants, leaves, -flowers, and resins as perfumes and incense.</p> - -<p>To this day there is kept up quite a trade in Valeriana -celtica, a strong-scented Alpine plant, and in powdered amber, -with the Orient, where they are used for scent bags and in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">208</span>cense -respectively. The Catholic Church retains to the -present time the Jewish rite of burning incense, and in our -museums will be found urns, taken from Egyptian graves, from -which pleasant odors escape even now after nearly four thousand -years, owing to the aromatic resins with which they are -filled. It is said, too, that the delightful volatile odors of our -handkerchief perfumes were first prepared by an Italian named -Frangipanni conceiving the idea of treating a dry mixture of -different aromatic plants with alcohol and thus imparting the -odor they contained to the latter.</p> - -<p>Not all aromatics can be made into sachet powders; it is -well known that the delightful odor of violets changes into a -positively disagreeable smell when the flowers are dried, and -the same remark applies to the blossoms of the lily of the -valley, mignonette, lily, and most of our fragrant plants. On -the other hand, some portions of plants, especially those in -which the odorous principle is contained not only in the -flower but in all parts of the plant, as in the mints, sage, and -most Labiatæ, remain fragrant for a long time after drying -and hence can be employed for sachets. Besides the plants -named, lavender, rose leaves, the leaves of the lemon and -orange tree, Acacia farnesiana, patchouly herb, and some other -plants continue fragrant after drying.</p> - -<p>Any vegetable substance to be used for sachets must be -completely dried so as to prevent mould. The drying should -be effected in a warm, shady place, sometimes in heated chambers; -direct sunlight and excessive heat injure the strength -of the odor, a portion of the aromatics becoming resinified -and volatilized. If artificial heat is employed, a temperature -between 40 and 45° C. (104-113° F.) is most suitable.</p> - -<p>The external form of this class of preparations varies of -course with the public for which it is intended. Expensive -sachets are sold in silk bags with different ornamentation; -those intended for the Orient are generally put up as small silk<span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">209</span> -cushions richly ornamented with gold and colors to suit Oriental -taste. Cheap sachets are sold in envelopes or in round -boxes. It is customary to have the ingredients ground or -finely powdered, for which purpose small hand-mills will -generally suffice.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII.</a><br /> - -<small>FORMULAS FOR DRY PERFUMES (SACHETS).</small></h2> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Ceylon Sachet Powder.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Mace</td> - <td align="left">23 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Patchouly</td> - <td align="left">28 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vetiver root</td> - <td align="left">35 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of peppermint</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Cyprian Sachet Powder.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cedar wood</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rhodium</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Santal wood</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rhodium</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The oil is mixed with the finely powdered or rasped woods -and distributed in the mass by trituration.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Field Flower Sachet Powder.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Calamus root</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Caraway</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lavender</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Marjoram</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cloves</td> - <td align="left">2¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Peppermint</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose leaves</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rosemary</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Thyme</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">210</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Frangipanni Sachet Powder.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sage</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Santal wood</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root</td> - <td align="left">6 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vetiver</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Civet</td> - <td align="left">¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of santal</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rhodium</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left"></td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Heliotrope Sachet Powder.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose leaves</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tonka beans</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vanilla</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Indian Sachet Powder.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Santal wood</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root</td> - <td align="left">21 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">10½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cloves</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Lavender Sachet Powder.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lavender flowers</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Marshal Sachet Powder.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cassia</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cloves</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose leaves</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Santal wood</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">211</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Mille Fleurs Sachet Powder.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lavender</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cloves</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Allspice</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose leaves</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Santal wood</td> - <td align="left">4¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tonka beans</td> - <td align="left">4¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vanilla</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Civet</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Muslin Sachet Powder.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Santal wood</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Thyme</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vetiver root</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of geranium</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Olla Podrida.</span></h3> - -<p>This name is applied in Spain to a dish prepared from -various remnants of food. The olla podrida of the perfumer -is made from the remnants of the aromatic vegetable substances -after their extraction with alcohol, petroleum ether, -etc. Although vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, etc., be repeatedly -extracted, they still retain their characteristic odor, though -somewhat fainter, and thus they can be used with advantage -for sachet powders intended for filling bags, cushions, etc. -If mixed in corresponding proportions, they can be made use -of for all the sachets here enumerated. No definite formula -can be given for a peculiar dry perfume to be called Olla -podrida; the olfactory organ is the best guide.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">212</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Patchouly Powder.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Patchouly herb</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of patchouly</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The musk is rubbed up with gradually increased quantities -of the patchouly herb and with the addition of the oil of -patchouly; the intimate mixture of the powder saturated with -musk and oil of patchouly and the rest of the powder is effected -by prolonged stirring of the two powders in a large vessel. -The same process is followed with all other dry powders in -which a small amount of a solid with intense odor or of an -essential oil is to be mixed with a large quantity of powder.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Persian Sachet Powder.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose leaves</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tonka beans</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of nutmeg</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Portugal Powder.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lemon peels</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orange peels</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon grass</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Potpourri.</span></h3> - -<p>Many widely differing perfumes are sold in the market -under this name; a good formula for its preparation is the -following:</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">213</span></p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lavender</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cloves</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Allspice</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose leaves</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Reseda</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vanilla</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sand, or table salt, etc.</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The admixture of fine white sand, table salt, or powdered -glass or marble, etc., is made merely for the purpose of increasing -the weight.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Rose Sachet Powder, A.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Geranium herb</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose leaves</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Santal wood</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Rose Sachet Powder, B.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose leaves</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Santal wood</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Santal Powder</span>,</h3> - -<p>which is simply finely rasped santal wood, is also sometimes -sold as rose sachet powder when it has received an addition -of some oil of geranium.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Violet Sachet Powder.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orange flowers</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose leaves</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon grass</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">214</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Violet Sachet Powder.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root, powdered</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">8 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vanillin</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">25 drops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of petit grain</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cologne water</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Mix intimately in a porcelain mortar.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Verbena Sachet Powder.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lemon peels</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Caraway</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orange peels</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon grass</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Vetiver Sachet Powder.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vetiver root</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Civet</td> - <td align="left">20 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII.</a><br /> - -<small>THE PERFUMES USED FOR FUMIGATION.</small></h2> - - -<p>According to the use made of them, perfumes for fumigation -may be divided into two groups: those which develop -their fragrance on being burned, and those which do so on -being merely heated. The former group includes pastils -and ribbons, the latter fumigating powders and waters.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Fumigating Pastils.</span><br /> - -<small><i>French</i>—Pastilles fumigatoires; <i>German</i>—Räucherkerzen.</small></h3> - -<p>Pastils consist in the main of charcoal to which enough -saltpetre is added to make the lighted mass glow continuously<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">215</span> -and leave a pure white ash. To this mass are added various -aromatic substances which are gradually volatilized by the -heat and fill the surrounding air with their perfume. It is -important to observe that only ordinary saltpetre (nitrate of -potassium) is to be used for this purpose, and not the so-called -Chili saltpetre (nitrate of sodium) which becomes moist in the -air. For ordinary pastils finely rasped fragrant woods such -as cedar or santal are frequently employed. During the slow -combustion, however, the wood gives off products of a pungent -or disagreeable odor such as acetic acid and empyreumatic -products, which lessen the fragrance. Fine pastils are -composed of resins and essential oils and are usually formed -into cones two-fifths to four-fifths of an inch high, by being -pressed in metal moulds.</p> - -<p>Fumigating pastils are manufactured as follows. Each -solid ingredient is finely powdered by itself, and the necessary -quantities are then put into a wide porcelain dish and intimately -mixed with a flat spatula. In order to confine the -dust, the dish is covered with a cloth during this operation. -The mixture being completed, the essential oils are added, -together with enough mucilage of acacia to form a plastic -mass to be kneaded with the pestle, and which after drying will -have a sufficiently firm consistence.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Pastilles Orientales.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Charcoal</td> - <td align="left">1½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Saltpetre</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Powdered amber</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tolu balsam</td> - <td align="left">2¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The charcoal for this and all other pastils should be made -from soft woods (willow, poplar, etc.). The characteristic of -these pastils is the amber they contain (the offal from manufactories -is used) and which on ignition gives off a peculiar<span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">216</span> -odor much prized in the Orient, rather than in Europe or -America.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Pastilles du Sérail.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Charcoal</td> - <td align="left">1½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Saltpetre</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Santal wood</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Opium</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tolu balsam</td> - <td align="left">2¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This formula is here given as usually quoted. It may be -stated, however, that the opium may be omitted entirely, as -it neither contributes to the fragrance, nor produces, by being -burned in this manner, any of the supposed exhilarating or -intoxicating effects which it may produce when used in other -forms or employed in other ways.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Baguettes Encensoires (Fumigating Pencils).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">14 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Charcoal</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Peru balsam</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Storax</td> - <td align="left">2 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Shellac</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Olibanum</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Civet</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of santal</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Melt the benzoin, charcoal, shellac, and olibanum in a -bright iron pan at the lowest possible heat; take the pan from -the fire and add the other ingredients, heat being again applied -from time to time to keep the mass in a liquid state. -The plastic mass is rolled out on a marble slab into rods the -thickness of a lead pencil. Such a pencil need be but lightly -passed over a hot surface to volatilize the aromatics it contains.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">217</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Pastilles Odoriférantes.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Charcoal</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Saltpetre</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">1½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cloves</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tolu balsam</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vanilla</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vetiver root</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of santal</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This and the following formula give the finest mixtures -for pastils.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Pastilles Enbaumées.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Charcoal</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Saltpetre</td> - <td align="left">2¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoic acid, sublimed</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Civet</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon grass</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of thyme</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Poudre d’Encens (Incense Powder).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cascarilla</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Santal wood</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Saltpetre</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vetiver root</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Olibanum</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Dissolve the saltpetre in water, saturate the powders with -the solution, dry the mass, and again reduce it to powder.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">218</span> -This powder, strewn on a warm surface such as the top of a -stove, takes fire spontaneously and gradually disappears.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Fumigating Papers and Wicks (Bruges Ribbons).</span><br /> - -<small><i>French</i>—Papier à fumigations. Ruban de Bruges; <i>German</i>—Räucherpapiere. -Räucherbänder.</small></h3> - -<p>Fumigating papers are strips impregnated with substances -which become fragrant on being heated; such a strip need -merely be placed on a stove or held over a flame in order to -perfume a whole room. Fumigating papers are divided into -two groups: those meant to be burned, and those meant to -be used repeatedly. The former, before being treated with -aromatics, are dipped into saltpetre solution; the latter, in -order to render them incombustible, are first dipped into a hot -alum solution so that they are only charred by a strong heat, -but not entirely consumed.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">A. Inflammable Fumigating Paper.</span></h4> - -<p class="center">Papier Fumigatoire Inflammable.</p> - -<p>The paper is dipped into a solution of 3½ to 5½ ounces -of saltpetre in water; after drying it is immersed in a strong -tincture of benzoin or olibanum and again dried. An excellent -paper is made according to the following formula:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Santal wood</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Olibanum</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon grass</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of vetiver</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol.</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>For use, the paper is touched with a red-hot substance, not -a flame. It begins to glow at once without bursting into -flame, giving off numerous sparks and a pleasant odor.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">219</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">B. Non-inflammable Fumigating Paper.</span></h4> - -<p class="center">Papier Fumigatoire Permanent.</p> - -<p>This paper is prepared by dipping it in a hot solution of -3½ oz. of alum in one quart of water; after drying, it is saturated -with the following mixture:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tolu balsam</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tonka</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of vetiver</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">20 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This paper, when heated, diffuses a very pleasant odor and -can be used repeatedly. It does not burn, and strong heat -only chars it. Some manufacturers make inferior fumigating -papers by dipping the alum paper simply in melted benzoin -or olibanum.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">C. Fumigating Ribbons</span></h3> - -<p>are nothing but fine flat lamp wicks treated first with saltpetre -solution and then with the preceding mixture. The -wick is rolled up and placed in a vessel provided with a lamp -burner. It is inserted in the burner like any other wick and -when lighted burns down to the metal and goes out unless -screwed up higher. Fumigating vessels provided with these -wicks are very practical because, if artistic in form, they form -quite an ornament to the room and can be instantly set in -operation. A French formula gives the following mixture for -saturating the wicks:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Myrrh</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tolu balsam</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">220</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Fumigating Waters and Vinegars (Eaux Encensoires, -Vinaigres Encensoires).</span></h3> - -<p>These fluids are nothing but strong solutions of various -aromatics in alcohol, a few drops of which suffice, if evaporated -on a warm plate, to perfume a large room. The following -is a good formula for fumigating water.</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cascarilla</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cardamoms</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Mace</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Peru balsam</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Storax</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tolu balsam</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Olibanum</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root</td> - <td align="left">14 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Civet</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of geranium</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Of course, this liquid must be filtered after prolonged -maceration. By adding to it 1½ oz. of glacial acetic acid we -obtain the so-called fumigating vinegar which is very useful -for expelling bad odors.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Fumigating Powders (Poudres Encensoires).</span></h3> - -<p>These powders which need only to be heated in order to -diffuse one of the most pleasant odors, are easily prepared by -intimately mixing the ground solids with the oils by means of -a spatula. We add three renowned formulas for the manufacture -of such powders.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">221</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">A. Poudre Impériale.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cascarilla</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lavender</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose leaves</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Santal wood</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Olibanum</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of patchouly</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">B. Poudre de la Reine.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cedar wood</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">14 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lavender</td> - <td align="left">10½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose leaves</td> - <td align="left">10½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Patchouly herb</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vetiver root</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Civet</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">C. Poudre Royale.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cloves</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root</td> - <td align="left">12½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Storax</td> - <td align="left">12½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lavender</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">⅜ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">⅜ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">⅜ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">⅜ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">222</span></p> - - - - -<h3 id="APPENDIX1">APPENDIX.</h3> - -<h4><span class="smcap">Some Specialties.</span></h4> - - -<p>Besides the preparations enumerated in the preceding -pages, we find in perfumery some products which are in favor -on account of their fragrance and are suitable for scenting -ladies’ writing-desks, sewing-baskets, boxes, and similar objects. -They find their most appropriate use in places where -an aromatic odor is desired, while there is no room for keeping -the substances themselves. These must therefore be put -into a small compass, and the aromatics chosen should be distinguished -by great intensity and permanence of odor.</p> - -<p>We subjoin a few formulas for the manufacture of such -specialties, and add the remark that besides the aromatics -there given other substances may be used in their preparation; -but that the presence of benzoin, musk, or civet, even in small -amount, is always necessary, since these substances, as above -stated, not only possess an intense and permanent odor, but -have the valuable property of imparting lasting qualities to -more volatile odors.</p> - -<p>It is a good plan, too, to keep on hand two kinds of these -specialties—one containing musk, the other none—for the reason -that the musk odor is as disagreeable to some persons as -it is pleasant to others.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Spanish Skin (Peau d’Espagne, Spanisch Leder).</span></h4> - -<p>The article sold under this name resembles in some respects -sachets or scent bags and is made as follows.</p> - -<p>Take a piece of wash-leather (chamois), trim it to a square -shape, and leave it for three or four days in the following -mixture:</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">223</span></p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon grass</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of nutmeg</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of santal</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tonka</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>At the end of the time named remove the leather from the -liquid, let it drain, spread it on a glass plate, and when dry -coat it on the rough side, by means of a brush, with a paste -prepared in a mortar from the following ingredients:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoic acid, sublimed</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Civet</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Gum acacia</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Glycerin</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The leather is then folded in the centre, smoothed with a -paper-knife, put under a weight, and allowed to dry. The -dried leather forms the so-called perfume skin which retains -its fine odor for years. Instead of the above alcoholic liquids -any desired alcoholic perfume may be used; especially suitable -are those containing oils of lemon grass, lavender, and -rose, since they are not very volatile, and when combined with -musk and civet remain fragrant for a long time. A sufficiently -large piece of perfume skin inserted in a desk pad or -placed among the paper will make the latter very fragrant. -Spanish skin is chiefly used for this purpose, as well as for -work, glove, and handkerchief boxes, etc. It is generally inclosed -in a heavy silk cover.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">224</span></p> - -<p>If leather be thought too expensive, four to six layers of -blotting-paper may be perfumed in the same way and properly -inclosed. Thin layers of cotton wadding between paper -can also be thus perfumed and used for filling pin cushions, -etc.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Spanish Paste.</span></h4> - -<p>Mix the following substances intimately in a porcelain -mortar, and add water drop by drop until a doughy mass -results.</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Ambergris</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vanilla</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Gum acacia</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Glycerin</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This paste, divided into pieces about the size of a hazelnut, -is used for filling the so-called cassolettes or scent boxes -which are carried in the pocket, etc., like smelling bottles. -Owing to its pasty consistence this preparation can be used -for perfuming jewelry (small quantities are inserted within the -diamond settings), fine leather goods, belts, and other articles. -It is unnecessary to lengthen the list; every practical perfumer -will know what objects need perfuming.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">225</span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIX" id="CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX.</a><br /> - -<small>HYGIENIC AND COSMETIC PERFUMERY.</small></h2> - - -<p>Perfumery is not merely called upon to act in an æsthetic -direction and gladden the senses; it has another and more -important aim, that is, to aid in some respects the practice of -medicine. It is not necessary to point out that in this sense, -too, it acts in an æsthetic way; for health and beauty are one -and inseparable.</p> - -<p>The field relegated to perfumery with reference to hygiene -is extensive, comprising the care of the skin, the hair, and the -mouth. But we also find in commercial perfumery articles -which possess no medicinal effect and serve merely for beautifying -some parts of the body, for instance, paints and hair -dyes. As it is not possible to separate perfumes with hygienic -effects from cosmetics, we shall describe the latter in connection -with the former.</p> - -<p>To repeat, hygienic perfumery has to deal with such substances -as have really a favorable effect on health. No one -will deny that soap takes the first place among them. Soap -promotes cleanliness, and cleanliness in itself is essential to -health. But it would exceed the scope of this work were we -to treat in detail of the manufacture of soap and its employment -in the toilet; we must confine ourselves to some specialties -exclusively made by perfumers and into the composition -of which soap enters. We do so the more readily since perfumers -are but rarely in a position to make soap, and in most -cases find it more advantageous to buy the raw material, that -is, ordinary good soap, from the manufacturer and to perfume -it.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">226</span></p> - -<p>Next to soap in hygienic perfumery stand the so-called -emulsions and creams (crêmes) which are excellent preparations -for the skin and pertain to the domain of the perfumer.</p> - -<p>The human skin consists of three distinct parts: the deepest -layer, the subcutaneous cellular tissue which gradually -changes into true skin; the corium or true skin (the thickest -layer); and the superficial scarf skin or epidermis which is -very thin and consists largely of dead and dying cells; these -are continually shed and steadily reproduced from the corium.</p> - -<p>The skin contains various depressions, namely, the sudoriparous -glands which excrete sweat; the sebaceous glands -which serve the purpose of covering the skin with fat and -thereby keep it soft, glossy, and supple; and lastly the hair -follicles which contain the hairs, an appendage to the skin.</p> - -<p>The main object of hygienic perfumery with reference to -the skin is to keep these glandular organs in health and activity; -it effects this by various remedies which, besides promoting -the general health, improve the appearance of the skin.</p> - -<p>As a special group of preparations is intended exclusively -for the care of the skin, so another class is devoted to the preservation -of the hair, and still another to the care of the -mouth and its greatest ornament, the teeth. Accordingly the -preparations belonging under this head will be divided into -three groups—those for the skin, the hair, and the mouth.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">227</span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XX" id="CHAPTER_XX">CHAPTER XX.</a><br /> - -<small>PREPARATIONS FOR THE CARE OF THE SKIN.</small></h2> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Glycerin.</span></h3> - -<p>Pure glycerin is a substance that has a powerful beautifying -effect on the skin, by rendering it white, supple, soft, -and glossy; no other remedy will clear a sun-burnt skin in so -short a time as glycerin. An excellent wash may be made by -the perfumer by mixing equal parts of thick, colorless glycerin -and orange-flower water (or some other aromatic water -with fine odor), possibly giving it a rose color by the addition -of a very small amount of fuchsine. Concentrated glycerin -must not be used as a wash, because it abstracts water from -the skin and thereby produces a sensation of heat or burning.</p> - -<p>Besides common soap, the so-called emulsions, meals, -pastes, vegetable milks and creams are the best preparations -for the care of the skin; in perfumery they are even preferable -to soap in some respects because they contain not only -substances which have a cleansing effect like any soap, scented -or not, but at the same time render the skin clearer, more -transparent, and more supple.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Emulsions.</span></h3> - -<p>Many perfumers make a definite distinction between two -groups of emulsions which they call respectively “emulsions” -and “true emulsions.” By “emulsions” they mean masses -which have the property of changing on contact with water -into a milky fluid or becoming emulsified; the term “true -emulsions” is applied to such preparations as already contain<span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">228</span> -a sufficient amount of water and therefore have a milky appearance. -Hence the difference between the two preparations -lies in the lesser or greater quantity of water, and is -so variable that we prefer to describe them under one head.</p> - -<p>The cause of the milky appearance of the emulsions on -coming in contact with water is that they contain, besides fat, -substances which possess the property of keeping the fat suspended -in form of exceedingly minute droplets which make -the entire fluid look like milk. As a glance through the microscope -shows, the milk of animals consists of a clear fluid -in which the divided fat droplets (butter) float; these by their -refractive power make the milk appear white.</p> - -<p>While soaps always contain a certain quantity of free -alkali, a substance having active caustic properties, emulsions -include very little if any alkali, and, since they possess the -same cleansing power as soap without its disadvantages with -reference to the skin, their steady use produces a warm youthful -complexion, as well as smoothness and delicacy of the skin.</p> - -<p>Glycerin is of special importance in the composition of -emulsions. Besides the above-mentioned property of this -substance of keeping the skin soft and supple, it acts as a true -cosmetic by its solvent power of coloring matters: a skin -deeply browned by exposure to the sun is most rapidly whitened -by the use of glycerin alone. Moreover, glycerin prevents -the decomposition of the preparations and keeps them -unchanged for a long time. This quality has a value which -should not be underestimated; for all emulsions are very apt -to decompose and become rancid owing to the finely divided -fat they contain. Under ordinary conditions, only complete -protection against light and air can retard rancidity, which is -accompanied by a disagreeable odor not to be masked by any -perfume; an addition of glycerin, which we incorporate in -all emulsions, makes them more permanent owing to the -antiseptic property of this substance.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">229</span></p> - -<p>Recent years, however, have made us acquainted with a -substance which in very minute quantities—one-half of one per -cent of the mass to be preserved by it—prevents decomposition -and rancidity of fats. This is salicylic acid, a chemical -product which, being harmless, tasteless, and odorless, should -be employed wherever we wish to guard against destructive -influences exerted by air, fermentation, etc. While formerly -all emulsions were made only in small amounts, just sufficient -for several weeks’ use, salicylic acid enables us to manufacture -larger quantities at once and to keep them without much fear -of their spoiling. However, even the presence of salicylic -acid is no guaranty against deterioration, if other precautions -are neglected. The products should be kept in well-stoppered -bottles or vessels, in a cool and dark place. All substances -cannot be preserved by salicylic acid, and there are certain -ferments or fungi which resist the action of salicylic acid. If -chloroform is not objectionable in any of these preparations—and -only so much is necessary as can be held in actual <em>solution</em> -by the liquid, on an average three drops to the ounce—this -preservative is preferable to salicylic acid.</p> - -<p>The only fats used in the preparation of emulsions are -expressed oil of almonds, olive oil, and lard. Almond oil is -best made by immediate pressure of the bruised fruits, since -fresh almond meal likewise finds application in perfumery; -olive oil and lard must be very carefully purified. This is -done by heating them for one hour with about ten times the -quantity of water containing soap (one per cent of the quantity -of fat to be purified). They are then treated five or six -times with pure warm water until the latter escapes quite -neutral. If the water turns red litmus paper blue, it would -indicate the presence of free alkali (soap); if it turns blue -litmus paper red, it would prove the presence of free fatty -acids (rancid fat). Either one of these substances, especially -the latter, would injure the quality of the product. The fat<span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">230</span> -should be absolutely neutral and have no influence on either -kind of litmus paper; then its quality may be pronounced -perfect.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXI" id="CHAPTER_XXI">CHAPTER XXI.</a><br /> - -<small>FORMULAS FOR THE PREPARATION OF EMULSIONS, -MEALS, PASTES, VEGETABLE MILK, AND COLD-CREAMS.</small></h2> - - -<h3>A. Emulsions.</h3> - -<h4><span class="smcap">Amandine.</span></h4> - -<p><i>Almond Cream.</i>—Melt ten pounds of purified lard in an -enamelled iron pot or a porcelain vessel, and while increasing -the temperature add little by little five pounds of potash lye -of 25% strength, stirring all the time with a broad spatula. -When fat and lye have become a uniform mass, 2¾ to 3½ -ounces of alcohol is gradually added, whereby the mixture -acquires a translucent, crystalline appearance. Before the -alcohol is added three-fourths to one ounce of oil of bitter -almond is dissolved in it. The soapy mass thus obtained is -called “almond cream” (crême d’amandes) and may be used -alone for washing. For making Amandine take of—</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almonds</td> - <td align="left">10 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Almond cream</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of mace</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sugar</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>In the manufacture the following rules should be observed.</p> - -<p>Effect the mixture in a cool room, the cellar in summer, a -fireless room in winter. Mix the ingredients in a shallow,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">231</span> -smooth vessel, best a large porcelain dish, using a very broad, -flat stirrer with several holes. The sugar is first dissolved in -the water and intimately mixed with the almond cream. The -essential oils are dissolved in the almond oil contained in a -vessel provided with a stop-cock. The oil is first allowed to -run into the dish in a moderate stream under continual stirring. -The mass soon grows more viscid, and toward the end -of the operation the flow of oil must be carefully restricted so -that the quantity admitted can be at once completely mixed -with the contents of the dish. Well-made amandine must be -rather consistent and white, and should not be translucent. -If translucency or an oily appearance is observed during the -mixture, the flow of oil must be at once checked or enough -almond cream must be added to restore the white appearance, -under active stirring.</p> - -<p>As amandine is very liable to decompose, it must be immediately -filled into the vessels in which it is to be kept, and -the latter, closed air-tight, should be preserved in a cool place. -By adding ¾ ounce of salicylic acid, amandine may be made -quite permanent so that it can be kept unchanged even in a -warm place.</p> - -<p>We have described the preparation of amandine at greater -length because its manufacture requires some technical skill -and because the preparation of all other cold-creams corresponds -in general with that of amandine.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Glycerin Emulsions. A. Glycerin Cream.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Glycerin</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Almond oil</td> - <td align="left">14 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">12½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">480 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">60 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Melt the wax and spermaceti by gentle heat, then add the -almond oil, next the glycerin mixed with the rose water, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">232</span> -lastly the oil of rose which may also be replaced by some -other fragrant oil or mixture. If the preparation is to be -used in summer, it is advisable to increase the wax by one-half, -thus giving the mass greater consistence.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">B. Glycerin Jelly.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Glycerin</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Almond oil</td> - <td align="left">6 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Soap</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of thyme</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Mix the soap with the glycerin, gradually add the oil (as -for amandine), and finally the aromatics.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Jasmine Emulsion.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique de jasmin</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Almond cream</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sugar</td> - <td align="left">2¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Mix in the same order as given under Amandine.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Tuberose Emulsion.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique des tubéroses</td> - <td align="left">1¾ to 2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Almond cream</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sugar</td> - <td align="left">2¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Violet Emulsion.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique des violettes</td> - <td align="left">2 to 3 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Almond cream</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sugar</td> - <td align="left">2¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>In place of the huiles antiques named (<i>i.e.</i>, fine oils saturated -with the odors of the corresponding flowers) any other<span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">233</span> -huile antique may be used and the cream then called by the -name of the flower whose odor it possesses. Such creams -with genuine huiles antiques are among the finest preparations -known in perfumery and of course are high-priced, owing -to the cost of the huiles antiques.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Olivine.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Gum acacia</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Yolk of egg</td> - <td align="left">10 yolks.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Olive oil</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Soap</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water</td> - <td align="left">8 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sugar</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">2 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">2 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of thyme</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>The gum, sugar, water, and yolk of eggs are first intimately -mixed and gradually added to the olive oil containing the -essential oils.</p> - - -<h3>B. Meals and Pastes.</h3> - -<p>The so-called meals (farines) and pastes (pâtes) really consist -of the flour of fatty vegetable substances which possess the -property of forming an emulsion with water and are frequently -used in washes. As they are free from alkali, they -are the most delicate preparations of the kind and are especially -suitable for washing the face or sensitive hands.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Simple Almond Paste (Pâte d’Amandes Simple).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Bitter almonds</td> - <td align="left">6 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">4 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">10½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">234</span></p> - -<p>Put the bitter almonds in a sieve, dip them for a few seconds -in boiling water, when they can be easily deprived of -their brown skin; carefully bruise them in a mortar, and place -them in a glazed pot set in another kept full with boiling -water; pour over them two quarts of the rose water heated -to near the boiling-point. Keep up the heat under continual -stirring until the almond meal and rose water form a uniform -mass free from granules; in other words, until the meal is -changed into paste. The pot is now allowed to cool somewhat, -when the rest of the rose water and the oils dissolved -in alcohol are added. Almond paste should have a uniform, -butter-like consistence if the first part of the operation has -been carefully performed.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Almond and Honey Paste (Pâte d’Amandes au Miel).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Bitter almonds</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Yolk of egg</td> - <td align="left">30 yolks.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Honey</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Decorticate and bruise the bitter almonds and add them -with the essential oils to the mixed yolks, honey, and almond -oil.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Almond Meal (Farine d’Amandes).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Almond meal</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root, powdered</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon grass</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Almond meal here means the bran left after expressing -the oil from sweet almonds. First mix the powdered orris -root intimately with the essential oils and triturate the mass<span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">235</span> -with the almond bran. Other essential oils may also be -used for perfuming the mass.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Pistachio Meal (Farine de Pistaches).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Pistachio nuts</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root, powdered</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The pistachio nuts are blanched in the same manner as -almonds (see under Simple Almond Paste), and then reduced -to a meal.</p> - - -<h3>C. Vegetable Milk.</h3> - -<p>The several varieties of vegetable milk are merely emulsions -containing sufficient water to give them a milky appearance. -They are used as such for washes and are in great -favor. Owing to the larger amount of water they contain, -they are more liable to decompose than the preparations described -above, since the fats present in them easily become -rancid on account of their fine division in the milk.</p> - -<p>In order to render these preparations more stable, they -receive an addition of about five to ten per cent of their -weight of pure glycerin which enhances their cosmetic effect. -The addition of about one-half of one per cent of salicylic -acid is likewise to be recommended, as it makes them more -stable.</p> - -<p>In the following pages we shall describe only the most important -of these preparations usually made by the perfumer. -In this connection we may state that by slightly modifying -the substances used to perfume them, new varieties of vegetable -milk can be easily prepared.</p> - -<p>Every vegetable milk consists in the main of a base of -soap, wax, and spermaceti, and an aromatic water which gives<span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">236</span> -the name to the preparation. This composition is intended -to keep suspended the fatty vegetable substances (almond or -pistachio meal, etc.), thus producing a milky appearance.</p> - -<p>Vegetable milks are made as follows.</p> - -<p>Melt the soap with the wax and spermaceti at a gentle -heat. Prepare a milk from the vegetable substance and the -aromatic water (<i>e.g.</i>, <em>unexpressed</em> almonds and rose water) by -careful trituration, strain it through fine silk gauze into the -vessel containing the melted mixture of soap, wax, and spermaceti, -stir thoroughly, let it cool, and add the alcohol holding -in solution the essential oils, the glycerin (and the salicylic -acid), under continual stirring. The alcohol must be added -in a very thin stream, otherwise a portion of the mass will -curdle. The coarser particles contained in the milk must be -allowed to settle by leaving the preparation at rest for twenty-four -hours, when the milk can be carefully decanted from the -sediment and filled into bottles for sale.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Lilac Milk (Lait de Lilas).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Soap</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sweet almonds</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lilac-flower water</td> - <td align="left">4½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique de lilas</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol (80-85% Tralles)</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>In place of lilac-flower water and huile antique de lilas, -lilacin (terpineol) may be used, a sufficient quantity (about 1 -oz.) being dissolved in the alcohol. But the lilacin must be -pure and of clean odor.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Virginal Milk (Lait Virginal).</span></h4> - -<p>This preparation differs from all other milks sold in perfumery -in that it consists of some aromatic water with tinc<span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">237</span>ture -of benzoin and tolu. In making it, pour the aromatic -water in a very thin stream into the tincture under vigorous -stirring. If the water flows in too rapidly, the resins present -in the tincture separate in lumps; but if slowly poured in, the -resins form minute spheres which remain suspended. The -preparation is named after the aromatic water it contains: -Lait virginal de la rose, à fleurs d’oranges, etc. Its formula is:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of benzoin</td> - <td align="left">2 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tolu</td> - <td align="left">2¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Aromatic water</td> - <td align="left">4 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Cucumber Milk (Lait de Concombres).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Soap</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Olive oil</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sweet almonds</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cucumber juice (freshly expressed)</td> - <td align="left">4½ pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cucumber</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Dandelion Milk.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Soap</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Olive oil</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sweet almonds</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">5 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Dandelion juice</td> - <td align="left">5 oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Dandelion juice is the bitter milk sap of the root of the -common dandelion (Leontodon taraxacum); it should be expressed -immediately before use. The rose water may be -replaced by some other aromatic water or even ordinary -water; but the latter should be distilled, otherwise the lime -it contains would form an insoluble combination with the soap.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">238</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Bitter-Almond Milk (Lait d’Amandes Amères).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Bitter almonds</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Soap</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">4 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">3 pints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Rose Milk (Lait de Roses).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Olive oil</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Soap</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sweet almonds</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">4 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Pistachio Milk (Lait de Pistaches).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Soap.</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Olive oil</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Pistachio nuts</td> - <td align="left">14 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orange-flower water</td> - <td align="left">6 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3>D. Cold-Creams and Lip Salves.</h3> - -<p>In the main they resemble in their composition the emulsions -and vegetable milks, but differ by their thick consistence -which renders them suitable for being rubbed into the skin.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">239</span> -Cold-creams are really salves perfumed with one of the well-known -odors which give them their names. Fat forms the -basis of these mixtures and gives them their hygienic effect, -as it imparts fulness and softness to the skin. Every well-made -cold-cream should have the consistence of recently congealed -wax and should yield to the pressure of the finger like -pomatum. It should be noted that the addition of very thick -glycerin will increase the effect of the cold-cream and improve -its fine transparent appearance; but this substance -must be added with great care, otherwise the mass will not -possess the required firmness.</p> - -<p>In making cold-cream, a mixture of wax, spermaceti, and -expressed almond oil must be combined with an aromatic -water and an essential oil. The first part of the operation is -easy; the wax and spermaceti are melted at the lowest possible -temperature, and the almond oil is added under continual -stirring. It is more difficult to unite the other substances -with this base; the aromatic water is admitted in a thin stream -under vigorous stirring (or whipping, or churning), and when -it forms a uniform mass with the contents of the mortar the -remaining substances are stirred in and the still fluid mass is -poured into the vessels intended for it, and allowed to congeal.</p> - -<p>Cold-creams are usually sold in tasteful porcelain jars -or vases. To guard against rancidity of the mass, the vessels -are closed either with ground stoppers or with corks covered -with tin foil. The essential oils should be added last, when -the mass has cooled to the congealing-point; if added before, -too much of them is lost by evaporation.</p> - -<p>We give below several approved formulas for the preparation -of some favorite cold-creams, and repeat that new varieties -can be produced by introducing any desired odor into the -composition.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">240</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Glycerin Cold-Cream A.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Glycerin</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of geranium</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Glycerin Cold-Cream B.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Glycerin</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Civet</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Camphor Ice (Camphor Cold-Cream).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Camphor</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rosemary</td> - <td align="left">90 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of peppermint</td> - <td align="left">45 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Camphor Ice (Pâte Camphorique).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lard</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Camphor</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rosemary</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This mixture, which is rather firm, is frequently poured -into shallow porcelain boxes; sometimes it is colored red with -alkanet root.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">241</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Camphor Balls (Savonettes Camphoriques).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Purified tallow</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Camphor</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rosemary</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Savonette is generally understood to mean a soap cast in -spherical moulds; this preparation is, as a rule, likewise sold -in this form.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Divine Pomade A.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">3 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lard</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vanilla</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Civet</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The aromatic substances, having been comminuted, are -thoroughly triturated with the other ingredients, and the mass -is kept for twenty-four hours at a temperature of 50 to 60° C. -(112-140° F.), when it is carefully decanted from the sediment, -which is treated again with another mass of the same -substances for thirty-six to forty-eight hours.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Divine Pomade B.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Beef marrow</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Nutmegs</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cloves</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Storax</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Civet</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orange-flower water</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">242</span></p> - -<p>The solid substances are macerated for forty-eight hours -with the warm marrow, the liquid perfumed marrow is then -strained off and mixed with the orange-flower water.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Cologne Cold-Cream (Crême de Cologne).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Mecca balsam</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tolu balsam</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">14 oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Mecca balsam has been a rare article in commerce for -many years. That which is usually sold as such is more or less -adulterated or an imitation. The genuine was derived from -Balsamodendron Opobalsamum Kunth.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Cucumber Cold-Cream A.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">2¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cucumber</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cucumber juice, fresh</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The cucumber juice is carefully heated to 60 or 65° C. (140-149°F.), -rapidly filtered from the curds, and at once added to -the rest of the mass.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Cucumber Cold-Cream B.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lard</td> - <td align="left">6 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cucumber</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The benzoin is first macerated with the warmed fat for -twenty-four hours, and this aromatic fat is treated in the usual -manner.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">243</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Lip Salve A (Pomade Blanche pour les Lèvres).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon grass</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Red Lip Salve B (Pomade à la Rose Pour les Lèvres).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of geranium</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of santal</td> - <td align="left">90 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alkanet root</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The beautiful red color which distinguishes this preparation -is produced with alkanet root; the mass, before the essential -oils are added, being macerated for from six to eight -hours, under frequent stirring, with the comminuted root, and -then decanted from the sediment.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Cherry Salve C (Pomade Cerise).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of sweet bay</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alkanet root</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The procedure is the same as for pomade à la rose.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Almond Cold-Cream.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">4½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Civet</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">244</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Almond Balls (Savonettes d’Amandes).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tallow</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">10½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This is usually formed into balls.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Rosebud Cold-Cream.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Almond oil</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of geranium</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Violet Cold-Cream (Crême de Violettes).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique de violettes</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Violet water</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3 id="APPENDIX2">APPENDIX.</h3> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Nail Powder (Poudre pour les Ongles; Fingernagel-Pulver).</span></h4> - -<p>The finger nails, being an appendage to the skin, belong -under the head of the Care of the Skin; we therefore give a -formula for preparing the powder used for imparting smoothness -and gloss to the nails. For use, some of the powder -is poured on a piece of soft glove leather and the nails are -rubbed until they shine.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">245</span></p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oxide of tin</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Carmine</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The oxide of tin must be an impalpable powder and is -mixed with the other substances in a mortar.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXII" id="CHAPTER_XXII">CHAPTER XXII.</a><br /> - -<small>THE PREPARATIONS USED FOR THE CARE OF -THE HAIR (POMADES AND HAIR OILS).</small></h2> - - -<p>The hair, the beautiful ornament of the human body, requires -fat for its care and preservation, for there are but few -persons whose scalp is so vigorous that the hair can derive -sufficient nourishment from it to maintain its gloss and smoothness.</p> - -<p>Among the ancient Greeks, Romans, and Germans various -ointments were in use for the care of the hair. In Rome -there was even, as we have stated in an earlier part of the -book, a special guild of ointment-makers or unguentarii. -They employed a process for making their ointments fragrant -which resembles that of maceration in present use.</p> - -<p>The so-called pomades (from pomum, apple) were prepared -by sticking a fine apple full of spices and placing it for a long -time in liquid fat which absorbed the odor of the spices.</p> - -<p>In the present state of chemical science, the basis of every -pomade or hair oil is formed by some fat perfumed with aromatic -substances and at times colored. The fats generally -used are lard, beef marrow, tallow, bears’ grease, olive or almond -oil; some of the firmer fats receive an addition of a certain -amount of paraffin, spermaceti, or wax, in order to give -the pomade greater consistence. As in the manufacture of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_246">246</span> -all the finer articles, it is essential that whatever fat is employed -should be perfectly pure; only fat which is absolutely -neutral, <i>i.e.</i>, free from acid, can be used, and any sample with -but a trace of rancidity (containing free fatty acids) should -be rejected on account of the penetrating odor peculiar to -several of these acids.</p> - -<p>Manufacturers who aim at the production of fine goods -spare neither trouble nor expense in order to obtain perfectly -pure fats.</p> - -<p>Fats are purified for the purposes of the perfumer in the -following manner:</p> - -<p>The fat is melted in a bright iron pot or enamelled vessel -with three times the quantity of water containing in solution -about one per cent (of the weight of the fat) of alum and one -per cent of table salt. Fat and water are well stirred with a -broad flat ladle or some mechanical arrangement within the -boiler. After the mass has remained at rest for some time, -the curdled solid matters are skimmed from the surface. The -time required for this operation can be much shortened by -the use of a pump which raises the fat and water from the -boiler and returns them in a fine spray.</p> - -<p>When fats with some degree of rancidity are to be made -suitable for the purposes of the perfumer, 0.5% of caustic soda -lye is added to the water instead of the alum.</p> - -<p>After this treatment is completed, the fat must be washed -in order to free it from the substances with which it was purified. -Formerly this washing was done in a manner resembling -the grinding of oil colors. The fat was placed on a level -stone plate and kneaded with a muller with flat base under a -continual stream of water flowing from above, until the fat -was clean. This expensive hand labor is now performed by -machines, the fat being treated with water in vertical mills.</p> - -<p>No matter how carefully a fat was purified, it may happen -that the pomades made from it, if kept long in stock, may sub<span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">247</span>sequently -become rancid—a circumstance which may destroy -the reputation of a factory. Fortunately we know two substances -which materially counteract the tendency of fats to -become rancid: salicylic acid and benzoin. Either of these -substances is added to many perfumery articles, especially -pomades, in order to prevent rancidity; an admixture of from -one-one-thousandth to five-one-thousandths parts of solid -salicylic acid suffices, according to our experiments, for the -purpose; of benzoin we need about three-fourths of an ounce -for every quart of fat; the resin is only partly soluble in fat, -but imparts to it its vanilla-like odor. For the finest pomades -sublimed benzoic acid is used, in the proportion of about 150 -to 240 grains to the quart of fat.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIII" id="CHAPTER_XXIII">CHAPTER XXIII.</a><br /> - -<small>FORMULAS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF -POMADES AND HAIR OILS.</small></h2> - - -<h3>A. Pomades.</h3> - -<p>In manufacturing perfumery two groups of pomades are -distinguished—those with a hard base, and those with a soft -base. By base is meant the fat which is the vehicle of the -odor in every pomade. The consistence of the substance depends -upon its melting-point; lard and beef marrow, having a -low melting-point, furnish soft pomades; while beef and mutton -tallow, which often receive an addition of paraffin, wax, -or spermaceti in order to make them firmer, have a higher -melting-point and serve for hard pomades.</p> - -<p>French perfumers put on the market some very fine pomades -consisting of the fat which has served for the absorption -of odors by maceration, enfleurage, etc., and which has been -treated with alcohol for the extraction of the odors (so-called<span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">248</span> -washed pomades). No matter how long such a fat is treated -with alcohol, it tenaciously retains a portion of the odor to -which the great fragrance of these pomades is due and which -has given them their reputation.</p> - -<p>If the pomades resulting from the following formulas -should turn out too soft—a fact depending on the climate of -the place of manufacture—they may receive an addition of a -mixture of equal parts of paraffin, wax, and spermaceti, in -portions of respectively five per cent at each addition, until -the desired ointment-like consistence is attained.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Cantharidal Pomade.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Beef marrow</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of mace</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of cantharides</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Tincture of cantharides is prepared by prolonged maceration -of ¾ ounce of powdered cantharides in one quart of -alcohol.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Circassian Pomade.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin pomade (see below)</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lard</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alkanet root</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The almond oil alone is first macerated with the alkanet -root until, when added to the other ingredients, it imparts a -beautiful red color to the pomade.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Benzoin Pomade A.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoic acid, sublimed</td> - <td align="left">4¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Purified fat</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_249">249</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Benzoin Pomade B.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">12¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Fat</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Macerate the benzoin or benzoic acid in the fat at the temperature -of boiling water for several hours, and strain the -pomade through a cloth.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Double Pomades.</span></h4> - -<p>These pomades are put on the market in excellent quality -especially by French manufacturers. They consist of a mixture -of washed pomades and huiles antiques. The respective -quantities must be chosen according to the climate of the -country for which the articles are intended. Colder countries -require equal parts by weight of pomades and oils; warmer -climates, two parts of fat to one of oil.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Crystallized Oil (Huile Crystallisée).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of orange flowers</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of roses</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of tuberoses</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of violets</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Paraffin</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The addition of spermaceti and paraffin causes the mixture -to assume a crystalline form on cooling, the appearance -improving in proportion as the cooling is slow and gradual. -First melt the paraffin and spermaceti on a water bath, add -the huiles antiques, mix thoroughly by prolonged stirring, and -pour the finished product into the vessels in which it is to -be sold. These vessels are previously warmed to 60 or 70° C. -(140-158°F.), and very slowly after filling, so as to secure a -beautiful crystalline mass. A second quality of crystalline -hair oil is made according to the following formula:</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_250">250</span></p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">10 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">21 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Paraffin</td> - <td align="left">14 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">2 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">4¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Blossom Pomade (Pomade à Fleurs).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Jasmine pomade</td> - <td align="left">28 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose pomade</td> - <td align="left">28 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Violet pomade</td> - <td align="left">28 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Bear’s Grease Pomade (Pomade à Graisse d’Ours).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">20 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lard</td> - <td align="left">24 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cassie pomade</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Jasmine pomade</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of orange flowers</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of roses</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of tuberoses</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of nutmeg</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">4¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This pomade is rather consistent; if it is to be made still -firmer for summer use or warm climates, the almond oil should -be diminished and the lard increased in proportion, or some -tallow and wax added. The pomade is made by mixing the -oil and lard, adding next the pomades and huiles antiques, -and finally the essential oils. The temperature should not be -higher than suffices to keep the mass liquid; the mixture is -effected by vigorous stirring, and is then at once, though -gradually, cooled.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">251</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Beef-Marrow Pomade (Pomade à Moëlle de Bœuf).</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lard</td> - <td align="left">8 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Beef marrow</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">2 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of mace</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Marrow Cream (Crême de Moëlle).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lard</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Palm oil</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">2 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of nutmeg</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The public is accustomed to receive the last two pomades -in the form of froth. This can be easily effected by whipping -the pomade during cooling with an egg-beater until it is solidified.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Cinchona Pomade (Pomade à Quinquine).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lard</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Beef marrow</td> - <td align="left">6 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Peru balsam</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinchona bark</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Macerate the finely powdered bark in the fat for some -hours, add the Peru balsam, strain through a cloth, and incorporate -the essential oils. The pomade is vaunted as a hair -tonic, as well as</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">252</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Tanno-Quinine Pomade</span>,</h4> - -<p>which is prepared in the same way; the only difference being -the addition of 150 grains of tannin.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Castor-Oil Cream (Crême de Ricine).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">3 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Castor oil</td> - <td align="left">3 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose pomade</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orange-flower pomade</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tuberose pomade</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Orange-flower Pomade (Pomade à Fleurs d’Oranges).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">38½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cassie pomade</td> - <td align="left">38½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose pomade</td> - <td align="left">35 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Jasmine pomade</td> - <td align="left">35 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Heliotrope Pomade (Pomade de Héliotrope).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose pomade</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orange-flower pomade</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vanilla pomade</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Transparent Pomade.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">6 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">253</span></p> - -<p>The pomade is completely liquefied after being mixed and -allowed to congeal in the vessels in which it is marketed. If -successful, the product must be quite transparent or at least -decidedly translucent.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Tonka Cream.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tonka beans</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lard</td> - <td align="left">8 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The powdered beans are stirred into the melted fat, in -which they remain for several days, the fat being agitated -from time to time; when it smells strong enough, it is strained -through fine linen, and the tonka beans are treated with another -quantity of fat.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Violet Pomade (Pomade des Violettes).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lard</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cassie pomade</td> - <td align="left">3 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose pomade</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Violet pomade</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Vanilla Cream (Crême de Vanille).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vanilla</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lard</td> - <td align="left">6 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>In making this pomade the material is treated the same as -in preparing tonka pomade. Ordinary vanilla pomade is -made by triturating:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Peru balsam</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lard</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>First triturate the balsam with the almond oil and gradually -add the lard. Another, much better process is the following:</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Vanilla Pomade.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vanillin</td> - <td align="left">80 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Peru balsam</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lard</td> - <td align="left">6 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">254</span></p> - -<p>Dissolve the vanillin and balsam of Peru in about 4 oz. of -alcohol. Melt the lard at as low a temperature as possible, -then add the solution, stir until it is well incorporated, and -afterward repeatedly until the mass is cold.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Pomade Philocome.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of rose</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of violet</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Paraffin</td> - <td align="left">10½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">14 oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This pomade has a delightful odor but is expensive; an -inferior and much cheaper philocome is made as follows:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">8 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Paraffin</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">14 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">4¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Nutmeg</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cloves</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Pomades are usually colored—rose pomade, red; reseda -pomade, green; violet pomade, violet, etc. For this purpose -aniline colors are frequently used; they must be dissolved -in glycerin and added to the fat, as they are insoluble -in the latter. The coloring matter is added when the pomades -are finished, before they are allowed to congeal.</p> - - -<h3>B. Hair Oils.</h3> - -<p>These differ from pomades mainly by containing huiles -antiques instead of washed pomades; they are therefore -more or less liquid and are used for the hair as much as pomades.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">255</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Benzoated Oil (Huile à Benjamin).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sublimed benzoic acid</td> - <td align="left">5 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The acid must be dissolved in the hot oil.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Huile à l’Ess-Bouquet.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of reseda</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of violet</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Almond oil</td> - <td align="left">6 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The essential oils are mixed, and the almond oil is added -in small portions under continual stirring.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Heliotrope Hair Oil (Huile Héliotrope).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">10½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of rose</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Jasmine Hair Oil (Huile de Jasmin).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of jasmine.</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Oil of Swiss Herbs.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of peppermint</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_256">256</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Oil of Burdock Root.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Burdock root</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The burdock root is macerated for two days in the warm -oil, which is then filtered and the other ingredients are -added.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Macassar Oil.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alkanet root</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of mace</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The alkanet root in coarse powder must be macerated in -the warm almond oil until it acquires a deep red color.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Peru Hair Oil.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Peru balsam</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Storax</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">8 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Mix by stirring, and allow to settle for two weeks in a completely -filled bottle.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Huile Philocome.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of cassie</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Huile antique of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">28 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">257</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Portugal Oil.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange peel</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Tonka Oil.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tonka beans</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Inclose the powdered tonka beans in a linen bag, which is -hung into the cold oil and allowed to macerate for several -weeks. The same process is employed for the following:</p> - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h4><span class="smcap">Vanilla Oil.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vanilla</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Almond oil</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Or,</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Vanillin</td> - <td align="left">80 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIV" id="CHAPTER_XXIV">CHAPTER XXIV.</a><br /> - -<small>PREPARATIONS FOR THE CARE OF THE -MOUTH.</small></h2> - - -<p>Besides the red lips and the gums, the teeth in particular -ornament the mouth. Unfortunately there are but few persons -who can boast of a perfectly healthy set of teeth, which -is found as a normal condition only among savages and animals. -The chief causes of the admitted fact that most persons -have some defect in the mouth—bad teeth, pale gums, offensive -odor—lie in part in our civilization with the ingestion of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">258</span> -hot and sometimes sour food, in part in the lack of attention -bestowed on the care of the mouth by many people. The -care of the mouth is most important after meals and in the -morning; particles of food lodge even between the most perfect -teeth and undergo rapid decomposition in the high temperature -prevailing in the mouth. This gives rise to a most -disagreeable odor, and the decomposition quickly extends to -the teeth.</p> - -<p>Perfectly normal healthy teeth consist of a hard, brilliant -external coat, the enamel, which opposes great resistance to -acid and decomposing substances. But unfortunately the -enamel is very sensitive to changes of temperature and easily -cracks, thus admitting to the bony part of the teeth such -deleterious substances and leading to their destruction. The -bulk of the tooth consists of a porous mass of bone which is -easily destroyed, and thus the entire set may be lost.</p> - -<p>Hygienic perfumery is able to offer to the public means by -which a healthy set of teeth can be kept in good condition -and the disease arrested in affected teeth, and by which an -agreeable freshness is imparted to the gums and lips. While -true perfumes may be looked upon as more or less of a luxury, -the hygiene of the mouth is a necessity; for we have to -deal with the health and preservation of the important masticatory -apparatus which is necessary to the welfare of the -whole body, so that the æsthetic factor occupies a secondary -position, or rather results as a necessary consequence from a -proper care of the mouth.</p> - -<p>With no other hygienic article have so many sins been -committed as with those intended for the teeth; we have had -occasion to examine a number of tooth powders, some of them -very high-priced, which were decidedly injurious. Thus we -have known of cases in which powdered pumice stone, colored -and perfumed, has been sold as a tooth powder. Pumice -stone, however, resembles glass in its composition and acts on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_259">259</span> -the teeth like a fine file which rapidly wears away the enamel -and exposes the frail bony substance. It needs no further -explanation to prove the destructive effects of such a powder -on the teeth.</p> - -<p>Many person prize finely powdered wood charcoal as a -tooth powder, and to some extent they are right. Wood charcoal -always contains alkalies which neutralize the injurious -acids, besides traces of products of dry distillation which prevent -decomposition. But these valuable properties are counteracted -by the fact that charcoal is always more or less gritty, -or, being insoluble, will lodge between the teeth and form -the nucleus for the lodgement of other substances.</p> - -<p>In compounding articles for the mouth and teeth—tooth -powders and mouth washes—the objects aimed at are to neutralize -the chemical processes that injure the teeth and gums, -and to restore freshness and resisting power to the relaxed -gums and mucous membranes.</p> - -<p>Remnants of food left in the mouth after meals soon develop -acids which attack the teeth; they are neutralized by -basic substances or alkalies which counteract them.</p> - -<p>The formation of organic acids from food remnants is -caused by microscopic fungi (schizomycetes) which adhere -to the teeth (so-called tartar) in the absence of cleanliness; -against these parasites there are at our disposal a number of -substances which kill them rapidly and thus for a time arrest -the process of decomposition; they are therefore called antiseptics.</p> - -<p>Another group of ingredients acts especially on such abnormal -conditions of the membranous and fleshy parts of the -mouth as manifest themselves by colorless, easily bleeding -gums. It is mainly compounds of the tannin group which -strengthen the gums and are known as astringents.</p> - -<p>In compounding articles for the teeth it has thus far unfortunately -not been customary to combine several of the sub<span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">260</span>stances -having the above properties, the general rule being to -incorporate only one in the composition, and some so-called -tooth lotions consist even of aromatics alone. Such articles -perfume the mouth, but have no hygienic effect upon it.</p> - -<p>Among the essential oils, however, there is one which -should form a part of every article intended for the care of -the mouth, provided it can remain unchanged in the presence -of the other ingredients, which would not be the case where -permanganate of potassium is used. Oil of peppermint and -other mint oils exert a very refreshing influence on the mucous -membranes of the mouth, in which they leave a sensation of -freshness lasting for some time.</p> - -<p>We give below a number of formulas for the manufacture -of articles for the care of the mouth, as to the value of which -the reader can form his own opinion from what has been -stated. Finally it may be observed that several of the so-called -secret preparations for the care of the mouth are arrant -humbugs, worthless substances being sold at exorbitant prices -and, worse yet, lacking the vaunted hygienic effect owing to -their chemical composition.</p> - -<p>The articles for the care of the mouth and teeth may be -divided into tooth pastes, tooth powders, tooth tinctures or -lotions, and mouth washes.</p> - - -<h3>A. Tooth Pastes.</h3> - -<h4><span class="smcap">Tooth Soap (Savon Dentifrice).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Soap</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Talcum</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sugar</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of peppermint</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The soap should be good, well-boiled tallow soap; it is -mixed with the other ingredients (the sugar is to be previously<span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">261</span> -dissolved in the water) by thorough and prolonged stirring, -and is usually sold in shallow porcelain boxes. The talcum -or French chalk is a soft mineral with a fatty feel and is a -common commercial article.</p> - -<p>This tooth soap and other similar preparations for the care -of the mouth are frequently colored rose red. Of course only -harmless colors can be used. The most appropriate are rose -madder lake and carmine.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Tooth Paste (Pâte Dentifrice).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Prepared chalk</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sugar</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Madder lake</td> - <td align="left">¾ to 1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of mace</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of peppermint</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The prepared chalk used in this and many other articles is -pure <em>precipitated</em> carbonate of lime. It is made from pieces -of white marble, the offal from sculptors’ workshops, which -are placed in wide porcelain or glass vessels and covered with -hydrochloric acid, when abundant vapors of carbonic acid are -given off. When the development of carbonic acid has ceased, -the liquid is allowed to stand at rest for several days with an -excess of marble, whereby all the iron oxide is separated. -This is necessary, otherwise the preparation would not be white, -but yellowish. The liquid is filtered and treated with a solution -of carbonate of soda (sal soda), in water as long as any -white precipitate results. This precipitate is washed with -pure water on a filter, and when slowly dried it forms a fine, -brilliant white powder. Crystalline calcium chloride may also -be purchased, dissolved in water, and treated with the soda -solution to obtain the white precipitate. The quantity of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">262</span> -madder lake in the above formula is given within the limits -to form light or dark red tooth paste.</p> - - -<h3>B. Tooth Powders.</h3> - -<h4><span class="smcap">Quinine Tooth Powder.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Prepared chalk</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Starch flour</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root, powdered</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sulphate of quinine</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of peppermint</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Cinchona Bark Tooth Powder.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinchona bark, powdered</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Prepared chalk</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Myrrh, powdered</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root, powdered</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon, powdered</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Carbonate of ammonia</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Borated Tooth Powder.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Borax, powered</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Prepared chalk</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Myrrh, powdered</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root, powdered</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon, powdered</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Homœopathic Chalk Tooth Powder.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Prepared chalk</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Starch flour</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root, powdered</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Camphorated Chalk Tooth Powder.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Prepared chalk</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Camphor</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root, powdered</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon, powdered</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">263</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Charcoal Tooth Powder.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Charcoal, powdered</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinchona bark, powered</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>The charcoal must be derived from some soft wood; willow, -poplar, or buckthorn are among the most appropriate.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Cuttlefish-Bone Tooth Powder.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Prepared chalk</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cuttlefish-bone, powdered</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root, powdered</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Cachous Aromatisées.</span></h4> - -<p>Cachous are of a pillular composition, and used not so -much for the teeth as to impart fragrance to the breath.</p> - -<p>They are made as follows:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Gum acacia</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Catechu, powdered</td> - <td align="left">2¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Licorice juice</td> - <td align="left">1¼ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cascarilla, powdered</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Mastic, powdered</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root, powdered</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of peppermint</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of ambergris</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk.</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Boil the solids with water until a pasty mass results which -becomes firm on cooling. The aromatics are then added, and -the mass is rolled into pills which are covered with genuine -silver foil. One of these pills suffices to remove the odor of -tobacco, etc., completely from the mouth.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_264">264</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Pastilles Orientales.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sugar</td> - <td align="left">8 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Carmine</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Gum acacia</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of vetiver</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Civet</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tartaric acid</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Add the essential oils to the powdered solids, mix intimately, -and add enough water to form a stiff dough, to be -made into pills which when chewed remove the odor of tobacco -or other unpleasant odors.</p> - - -<h4>Rose Tooth Powder.</h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Prepared chalk</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root, powdered</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Madder lake</td> - <td align="left">1¾ to 2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of santal</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Sugar Tooth Powder.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Bone-ash</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root, powdered</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sugar, powdered</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of citron</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of mace</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rosemary</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Chinese Tooth Powder.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Pumice stone</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Starch flour.</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Madder lake</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of peppermint</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_265">265</span></p> - -<p>The pumice stone must be ground into the <em>finest</em> powder -and levigated, before being mixed with the other ingredients. -Note our remarks on pumice stone on page 258.</p> - - -<h3>C. Tooth Tinctures (Lotions) and Mouth Washes -(Essences Dentifrices).</h3> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Eau Anathérine.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Guaiac wood</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Myrrh</td> - <td align="left">8 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cloves</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Santal wood</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">4 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of mace.</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The solids are macerated in the alcohol, the essential oils -are dissolved in the filtered liquid, and lastly the rose water is -added.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Eau de Botot.</span></h4> - -<p>This tooth tincture, which is quite a favorite, is made in -different ways; the compositions made according to the -French and English formulas are considered the best. For -this and many other tooth tinctures rhatany root is also frequently -used. Rhatany root is derived from Krameria triandra, -a South American plant. Its alcoholic tincture has a red color.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">A. French Formula.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Anise</td> - <td align="left">10 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cochineal</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Mace</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cloves.</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">2¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">3 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of peppermint</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_266">266</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">B. English Formula.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of cedar</td> - <td align="left">4 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of myrrh</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of rhatany</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of peppermint</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Borated Tooth Tincture.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Borax</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Myrrh</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Red santal wood</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sugar</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cologne water</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">3 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water</td> - <td align="left">3 pints.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Macerate the myrrh and santal wood in the alcohol, then -add the Cologne water, and lastly the sugar and borax dissolved -in the water.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Camphorated Cologne Water.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Camphor</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cologne water</td> - <td align="left">4 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Cologne water with myrrh is made in the same way, by -substituting a like weight of myrrh for the camphor.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Eau de Milan.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Kino</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Civet</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of peppermint</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Kino contains an astringent, a variety of tannin, and forms -a dark red solution with alcohol.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_267">267</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Eau de Mialhe.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of benzoin</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tolu</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Kino</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of anise.</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of peppermint</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of star-anise</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Myrrh Tooth Tincture.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Mace</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Myrrh.</td> - <td align="left">8 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cloves</td> - <td align="left">8 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rhatany root.</td> - <td align="left">8 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Chloral Mouth Wash.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Chloral hydrate</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water</td> - <td align="left">10 oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>A small quantity of this, rinsed about the mouth, removes -every trace of bad odor.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Potassium Permanganate Water.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Potassium permanganate</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Distilled water</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Potassium permanganate easily dissolves in distilled water -and forms a beautiful violet solution, a few drops of which are -placed in a glass of water for use. This salt is one of the -most valuable articles for the teeth; it has the property of -readily giving off oxygen to organic substances and hence immediately -destroys all odor in the mouth by oxidizing the -organic bodies; it also removes at once the odor of tobacco -smoke. After rinsing the mouth with this solution, it is well<span class="pagenum" id="Page_268">268</span> -to use some peppermint water for polishing the teeth. This -mouth wash leaves brown stains on linen and other materials -as well as on the skin; such spots can only be removed with -acids (hydrochloric, oxalic, etc.).</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Salicylated Tooth Tincture.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Salicylic acid</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orange-flower water</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of peppermint</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Salicylic acid is a substance possessing strong antiseptic -properties; therefore, when this mouth wash is used after -meals, the occurrence of any bad odor, even in persons with -defective teeth, is prevented and the progress of caries is arrested, -so that the acid may be considered one of the most -valuable substances in hygienic perfumery.</p> - -<p>Dissolve the salicylic acid in the warm alcohol mixed with -water; add to the still warm solution the orange-flower water -and the oil of peppermint dissolved in some of the alcohol.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Eau de Salvia.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon.</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of sage</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water</td> - <td align="left">4 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The essential oils are dissolved in the alcohol, and this -solution mixed with the water.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Eau de Violettes.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of orris root</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water, triple</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_269">269</span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXV" id="CHAPTER_XXV">CHAPTER XXV.</a><br /> - -<small>COSMETIC PERFUMERY.</small></h2> - - -<p>In cosmetic perfumery, use is made chiefly of articles -which serve to beautify some parts of the body by artificial -means; for instance, to impart to pale cheeks a youthful freshness -or to restore to prematurely gray hair its original appearance. -In so far as the former object is attained also by the -preparations discussed in Chapters XXI., XXII., XXIII., and -XXIV., they likewise belong to the domain of cosmetic perfumery; -for health and beauty are inseparably connected.</p> - -<p>Though we have separated hygienic from cosmetic perfumery, -we have done so only in order to draw the line between -preparations whose regular use really improves the -bodily health, and those which temporarily cover a defect of -certain parts of the body.</p> - -<p>Cosmetics may also be divided into several groups—those -for beautifying the skin, as paints and toilet powders; and -those for the care of the hair. The latter are subdivided into -hair washes, hair dyes, so-called hair tonics, depilatories, and -preparations for dressing the hair, <i>i.e.</i>, for making it glossy -and fixing it.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">270</span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVI" id="CHAPTER_XXVI">CHAPTER XXVI.</a><br /> - -<small>SKIN COSMETICS AND FACE LOTIONS.</small></h2> - - -<p>The use of skin cosmetics and paints is of remote antiquity, -but varies in different nations according to their civilization -and their sense of beauty. While among certain -Oriental nations dark blue rings around the eyes, with yellow -lips and nails, pass for beautiful, the European prizes only a -white skin with a delicate tinge of red; Italian ladies in the -middle ages used the dark red juice of the fruit of the deadly -night-shade as a paint, hence the name bella donna, <i>i.e.</i>, beautiful -lady. (According to Matthiolus, the name <i lang="it">herba bella -donna</i> arose from the fact that Italian ladies used a distilled -water of the plant as a cosmetic.) Owing to its marked effect -on the eyes, by dilating the pupil and increasing the lustre, -this juice also heightens the brilliancy of the eye, though at -the expense of its health.</p> - -<p>While in the last century face-painting was a universal -fashion, it is nowadays resorted to only by persons whose skin -requires some artificial help. But nobody desires that the -cosmetic should be perceptible on the skin. Hence it must -be laid down as a rule that paints and all cosmetics should be -so compounded that it is not easily possible to the observer -to recognize that some artificial means has been employed for -beautifying the skin.</p> - -<p>We give below a number of such articles, which come as -near as possible to this ideal without injuring the skin. As -every skin cosmetic cannot but occlude the pores of the skin, -it should be removed as soon as possible—an advice to be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">271</span> -heeded particularly by actors and actresses, who must appear -painted on the boards.</p> - - -<h3>A. White Skin Cosmetics.</h3> - -<h4><span class="smcap">French White (Blanc Français).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Talcum</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The talcum must be reduced to the finest powder, levigated, -dried, and then perfumed. Owing to its unctuous nature, -it readily adheres to the skin, and as it has no effect on -it and does not change color, it is the best of all powders.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Liquid Bismuth White; Pearl White (Blanc Perlé -Liquide).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Subnitrate of bismuth</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orange-flower water</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>When standing at rest, the subnitrate of bismuth sinks to -the bottom, while the supernatant fluid becomes quite clear. -The bottle must therefore be vigorously shaken immediately -before use. When this preparation remains on the skin -for some length of time, it loses its pure white color and becomes -yellow, or darker, through the gradual formation of a -black sulphur compound.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Venetian Chalk (Craie Venétienne).</span></h4> - -<p>is made exactly like the French white, above; the only difference -between the two preparations is that the talcum for the -latter is brought to a red heat, which, however, causes it in -part to lose the power of adhering to the skin.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">272</span></p> - - -<h3>B. Red Skin Cosmetics (Rouges).</h3> - -<h4><span class="smcap">Rouge Végetal Rose Liquide.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Ammonia water</td> - <td align="left">2 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Carmine</td> - <td align="left">1¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This superior preparation, which serves mainly for coloring -the lips, is made as follows: Reduce the carmine to powder; -macerate it in the ammonia in a three or four pint bottle -for several days, add the other ingredients, and let it stand -for a week under oft-repeated agitation. At the end of that -time the bottle is left undisturbed until the contents have become -quite clear, when they are carefully decanted and filled -into bottles for sale.</p> - -<p>In order to obtain this preparation in proper form, only -the finest carmine should be used. That known in the market -as “No. 40” is the best. This alone will produce a cosmetic -that, when brought in contact with the skin, will give -a vivid red color.</p> - -<p>In place of carmine, which requires the presence of ammonia -if it is to remain in solution, the anilin color known as -<i>eosine</i> may be used. Of this, very minute amounts will be sufficient -to impart the proper tint. It is impracticable to give -exact proportions, as these must be determined in each case -by experiment. It is necessary to avoid an excess. The tint -of a liquid colored by eosine may not appear deep, and yet -when it is applied to the skin a decidedly deeper stain than -was desired may be produced. Hence each addition of fresh -coloring matter must be carefully controlled by a practical test.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Rouge en Feuilles.</span></h4> - -<p>Cut from thick, highly calendered paper circular disks -about 2½ inches in diameter, and cover them with a layer of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">273</span> -carmine containing just enough gum acacia to make it adhere -to the paper. For use, the leaf is breathed on, a pledget of -fine cotton is rubbed over it, and the adhering color is transferred -to the skin.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Rouge en Pâte.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Carmine</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Talcum</td> - <td align="left">21 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Gum acacia</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The ingredients in finest powder are mixed in a mortar by -prolonged trituration, then water is added in small portions to -form a doughy mass to be filled into shallow porcelain dishes -about the diameter of a dollar. If the rouge is desired darker -for the use of actors and dark-complexioned persons, the proportion -of carmine should be increased.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Rouge en Tasses.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Carthamin</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Talcum powder</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Gum acacia</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This rouge, when dry, has a greenish metallic lustre; it is -prepared and sold like rouge en pâte.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Bleu Végetal pour les Veines.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Venetian chalk</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Berlin blue</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Gum acacia</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>To the powdered solids add sufficient water to form a mass -to be rolled into sticks. For use, a pencil is breathed on, -rubbed against the rough side of a piece of white glove leather, -and the veins are marked with the adhering color on the skin -coated with pearl white. Of course, some dexterity is required -to make the veins appear natural by the use of this -blue color.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_274">274</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Rouge Alloxane (Alloxan Red; Murexide Paint).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cold cream</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alloxan</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Dissolve the alloxan in a little water and mix it intimately -with any desired cold-cream. The mixture is white, but when -transferred to the skin gradually becomes red. The preparation -sold in Austria, etc., under the name of “Schnuda” is -identical with this alloxan paint.</p> - - -<h3>C. Face Lotions.</h3> - -<p>The skin often contains spots with marked color which are -more or less unsightly; for instance, freckles, liver spots, -mother’s marks (nævi), etc. Unfortunately we know of no -remedy which radically removes them; even chemical preparations -with the most energetic effects, which of course must -never be employed owing to their destructive action on the -skin, cannot entirely do away with these dark spots which -have their seat in the lower layers of the skin. But the public -demands preparations for the removal of freckles, liver -spots, etc., and—obtains them. We subjoin the formulas for -several of such secret remedies, but declare emphatically that -none of them will completely effect the desired result.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Freckle Milk (Lait Antéphelique).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Camphor</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Ammonium chloride</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Corrosive sublimate</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Albumen</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>We call attention to the fact that the sublimate (bichloride -of mercury) is very poisonous and must be used with the -greatest care.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">275</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Freckle Lotion.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Angelica root</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Black hellebore root</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Storax</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of citron</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left"></td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Macerate for a week and filter.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Eau Lenticuleuse.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Potassium carbonate</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sugar</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orange-flower water</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Lilionese I.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Potassium carbonate</td> - <td align="left">14 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">14 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Lilionese II.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orange-flower water</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Glycerin</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Potassium carbonate</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of benzoin</td> - <td align="left">¾ to 1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Add only enough of the alcoholic tincture of benzoin to -render the liquid slightly opalescent or milky.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Lotion for Chapped Skin.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Glycerin</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Color pale red with cochineal.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_276">276</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Eau de Perles.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">White soap</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Dissolved in: Water</td> - <td align="left">4 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 7em;">Glycerin</span></td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Add: Rose water</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">Tincture of musk</span></td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>To be colored bluish with some indigo-carmin.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Teint de Venus.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcoholic soap solution</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Carbonate of potassium</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The soap solution is made as concentrated as possible, and -the entire fluid colored with cochineal; in place of the extract -of orange flower, other essences or extracts may also be employed. -For use, some of the liquid is poured into the wash -water.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Pulchérine.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Carbonate of potassium</td> - <td align="left">14 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orange-flower water</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The preceding preparations owe their activity merely to -the presence of carbonate of potassium which forms an emulsion -with the fat of the skin and thus resembles in its effects -a mild soap. The other ingredients only serve to render the -composition fragrant.</p> - - -<h3>D. Toilet Powders.</h3> - -<p>Toilet powders are used to impart whiteness and smoothness -to the skin; hence they are merely a kind of dry cosmetic -which are applied by means of a powder puff or a hare’s foot.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">277</span> -Their main ingredients are starch and talcum powders, perfumed -and sometimes tinted a rose-red color. It is immaterial -what kind of starch is used; rice, wheat, and potato starch -are equally effective, provided they are clear white and in the -finest powder. In some cases the bitter-almond bran remaining -after the expression of the fixed oil and the preparation of -the oil of bitter almond is likewise used for toilet powders. -The more thoroughly these powders are rubbed into the skin, -the whiter the latter becomes and the less easily can they be -detected.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">White Toilet Powder.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Fine levigated zinc white</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Venetian talcum</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Carbonate of magnesia</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">20 drops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orris</td> - <td align="left">20 drops.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Mix intimately.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Pink Toilet Powder.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">White toilet powder (see above)</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Carmine</td> - <td align="left">8 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Poudre de Pistaches.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Pistachio meal</td> - <td align="left">10 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Talcum</td> - <td align="left">10 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The oil must have been completely extracted from the -pistachio meal, which is to be reduced to the finest powder.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Poudre à la Rose.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Starch powder</td> - <td align="left">20 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Carmine</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of santal</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of vetiver</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_278">278</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Poudre à la Violette.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Starch powder</td> - <td align="left">20 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root, in fine powder</td> - <td align="left">10 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Poudre Blanche Surfine (Poudre de Riz).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Starch powder</td> - <td align="left">20 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Subnitrate of bismuth</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Blanc de Perles Sec (Dry Pearl White).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Venetian chalk</td> - <td align="left">20 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Subnitrate of bismuth</td> - <td align="left">42 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Zinc white</td> - <td align="left">42 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Anti-Odorin.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Starch powder</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Salicylic acid</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This mixture, which is best left unperfumed, does excellent -service when used to prevent an offensive odor in stockings -or shoes. The inside of the stockings is dusted with the powder, -and every week a teaspoonful is sprinkled into the shoes.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Skin Gloss.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Carbonate of potassium</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Powdered spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Starch powder</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Benzoin</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Mix intimately and preserve in well-closed boxes. For -use, stir some into water.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_279">279</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Kaloderm.</span></h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wheat flour</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Almond bran</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root, in fine powder</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of rose</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Glycerin</td> - <td align="left">6 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Form into a dough which is thinned with water and painted -on the skin.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Musk Paste (for Washing the Hands).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Powdered white soap</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orris root, in fine powder</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Starch powder</td> - <td align="left">1½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of musk</td> - <td align="left">1½ fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Glycerin</td> - <td align="left">12 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Rub the starch with the glycerin in a mortar until they -are thoroughly mixed. Then transfer the mixture to a porcelain -capsule and apply a heat gradually raised to 284° F. -(and not exceeding 290° F.), stirring constantly, until the -starch granules are completely dissolved, and a translucent -jelly is formed. Then gradually incorporate with it the powdered -soap and orris root, and lastly the oils and tincture.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_280">280</span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVII" id="CHAPTER_XXVII">CHAPTER XXVII.</a><br /> - -<small>HAIR COSMETICS.</small></h2> - - -<p>The number of preparations used for the care of the hair -and beard is considerable. Unfortunately we are forced to -admit that the majority of them, especially those said to -strengthen the scalp and to stimulate the growth of the hair, -are utterly inert. Thus far we know too little of the natural -conditions of growth of the hair to enable us to compound -remedies which would actively aid the efforts of nature in this -direction.</p> - -<p>In like manner we cannot speak with approval of the -preparations used to color the hair, either from a chemico-sanitary -or from an æsthetic standpoint; many of them contain -substances which positively injure the hair or impart to -it an unnatural color which is detected at first sight. But a -well-made cosmetic should never produce this effect, and -nature must be faithfully imitated if the preparation is to deserve -the name of a cosmetic.</p> - -<p>With the so-called hair and beard elixirs almost incredible -swindles are perpetrated; the practical perfumer, however, -cannot advise against the use of such worthless preparations -among his goods, as they are in daily demand. This is the -reason why we furnish the formulas for some of these secret -preparations; anybody at all familiar with the principles of -chemistry and physiology will recognize their worthlessness -from their composition. The only articles of practical value -are those intended for cleansing the hair, for making it soft -and glossy, some of the hair dyes, and the preparations for -fixing the hair in certain positions.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_281">281</span></p> - - -<h3>A. Hair Washes.</h3> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Eau d’Athènes.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Carbonate of potassium</td> - <td align="left">2½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sassafras wood</td> - <td align="left">8 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">4 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orange-flower water</td> - <td align="left">4 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Macerate the ingredients for one month. The carbonate -of potassium and the alcohol cleanse the hair and remove the -fat. After using this wash and drying the hair, its fat and -gloss should be restored by the application of a good pomade -or hair oil.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Eau Glycerinée aux Cantharides.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Ammonia water</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of cantharides (see below)</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rosemary water</td> - <td align="left">8 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Glycerin</td> - <td align="left">10½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The tincture of cantharides is made by macerating 1¾ oz. -of powdered Spanish flies (Lytta vesicatoria) in one quart of -strong alcohol. The caustic ammonia has a similar cleansing -effect as the carbonate of potassium; the glycerin makes the -hair soft; the entire preparation is a happy combination, as it -cleanses and softens the hair at the same time.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Eau de Fleurs; Extrait Végétal.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of cassie</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of orange flower</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tonka</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of tuberose</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of vanilla</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">282</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Eau de Laurier.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Carbonate of ammonium.</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Borax</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of sweet bay</td> - <td align="left">½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Eau de Romarin.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Carbonate of potassium</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rosemary water</td> - <td align="left">4 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rose (triple)</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Eau Saponique.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rondeletia perfume</td> - <td align="left">10½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Saffron</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Soap</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">10½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Boil the finely divided soap and the saffron with some distilled -water until the soap is completely dissolved, add the -other ingredients, mix intimately, and let stand for some days -to allow the coarser particles of saffron to settle. This preparation -has a particularly handsome appearance; in cut-glass -bottles it shows a peculiar opalescence or iridescence; in -transmitted light it represents an almost perfectly transparent, -saffron-yellow liquid.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Eau Victoria.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Ammonia water</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of mace</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of nutmeg</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Essence of rosemary</td> - <td align="left">21 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Mix the ingredients, except the rose water, by vigorous -agitation until a kind of emulsion results. Then add the rose -water in small portions, shaking after each addition.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_283">283</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Eau de Roses.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rose water</span></td> - <td align="left">5 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oil of rose</span></td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Dissolve in</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Alcohol</span></td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">And add</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tincture of vanilla</span></td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tincture of civet</span></td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3>B. Hair Tonics.</h3> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Hair Restorer.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of cantharides (see above, page 281)</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of nut-galls</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of musk</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Carmine</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Tincture of nut-galls is made by macerating 3½ oz. of -powdered nut-galls in one quart of alcohol. The tincture of -cinchona in the following formula is prepared in the same -manner.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Tanno-Quinine Hair Restorer.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of cinchona</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of nut-galls</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Carmine</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of nutmeg</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orange-flower water</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Baume de Milan pour les Cheveux.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lard</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Carmine</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of cantharides</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of storax</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tincture of tolu</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_284">284</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Beard Producer.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lard</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Spermaceti</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Cantharides</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Carmine</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lavender</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of santal</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Rub the cantharides with the carmine to the finest possible -powder; add this with the essential oils to the other ingredients.</p> - -<p>Formulas for similar hair tonics might be given to the -number of several hundreds; but we repeat what we have -said above—they do not produce the desired result.</p> - -<p>While the well-known bay rum is used more as a face -lotion or refreshing skin tonic, particularly after shaving, or -when perspiring in hot weather, yet it is also often used as a -wash for the scalp, and is popularly believed to stimulate the -growth of hair, which is in reality not the case. We shall -therefore give a formula for its preparation here:</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Bay Rum.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bay (from Myrcia acris)</td> - <td align="left">240 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of orange (bigarade)</td> - <td align="left">16 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of Pimenta</td> - <td align="left">16 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water</td> - <td align="left">25 fl. oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Dissolve the oils in the alcohol and add the water. Mix -the liquid with about 2 oz. of precipitated phosphate of lime, -and filter. It will improve by age.</p> - -<p>Genuine bay rum is imported from the West Indies (St. -Thomas, etc.), where a crude kind of alcohol, obtained in connection -with the manufacture of rum from molasses, is distilled<span class="pagenum" id="Page_285">285</span> -with the fresh leaves of the bay-tree (Myrcia acris). The oil -of bay obtained from this must not be confounded with the -oil of sweet bay. The latter, as it appears in commerce, is a -crude mixture of a fixed with a volatile oil.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVIII" id="CHAPTER_XXVIII">CHAPTER XXVIII.</a><br /> - -<small>HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES.</small></h2> - - -<p>The custom of dyeing the hair is universal in the Orient; -in the Occident, however, hair dyes are also frequently used, -namely, to hide the grayness of the hair, sometimes to give -the hair a preferred color. Hair dyes, which are very numerous, -may be divided into groups—those containing the dye-stuff -ready formed, and those in which it is produced in the -hair by some chemical process. Some hair dyes contain substances -which in their nature are decidedly injurious to the -hair; such articles, of course, must be dispensed with because, -if frequently employed, they would certainly lead to baldness. -We shall return to this subject in connection with the -several preparations.</p> - -<p>Regarding the use of hair dyes, especially those consisting -of two separate portions, we may state that it is necessary to -remove the fat from the hair before applying the dye, as the -chemicals in question do not adhere well to fat. The hair -should be thoroughly washed once or twice with soap, and -dyed when nearly dry.</p> - -<p>When dyeing the hair the preparations should first be diluted; -if the color is not deep enough, the process is repeated. -If the preparation is used at once in a concentrated form, a -color may result which has no resemblance to any natural -tint; hair meant to be black may assume a metallic bluish-black -gloss.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_286">286</span></p> - - -<h3>A. Simple Hair Dyes.</h3> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Lead Hair Dye.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oxide of lead</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Quicklime</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Calcined magnesia</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The ingredients are rubbed to a very fine powder and for -use are mixed with water, applied to the hair, and left there -until the desired tint—light brown to black—is obtained, from -four to twelve hours, when the powder is removed by washing. -The lime by its caustic effect acts destructively on the -horny substance of the hair. Moreover, <em>all lead preparations</em> -without exception are <em>very injurious</em> to the organism; hence -this hair dye is to be rejected, especially as there are harmless -preparations which produce the same effect.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Karsi (Teinture Orientale).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Ambergris</td> - <td align="left">75 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Nut-galls</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Iron filings</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Copper filings</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Musk</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This preparation, which really comes from the Orient, is -made as follows: Reduce the nut-galls to a very fine powder -and roast them in an iron pan under continual stirring until -they have become dark brown or almost black. This powder -is triturated with the metals in fine powder and the aromatics, -and preserved in a moist place. For use, some of the powder -is moistened in the palm of the hand and vigorously rubbed -into the hair; after a few days it assumes a deep black, natural -color. The roasting changes the tannin bodies contained -in the galls into gallic and pyrogallic acids which form deep -black combinations with the metals, and themselves are easily -transformed into brownish-black substances.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_287">287</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Kohol (Teinture Chinoise).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Gum arabic</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">India ink</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Powder the ink and the gum, and triturate small quantities -of the powder with rose water until a uniform black liquid -results, which must be free from granules. This liquid is -placed in a bottle and the rest of the rose water added. -Kohol can be used only by persons with black hair, and is employed -particularly for dyeing the eyebrows. As the coloring -matter of this preparation consists of carbon in a state of fine -division, the dye is perfectly harmless.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Vegetable Dye.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Silver nitrate</td> - <td align="left">2 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Distilled water</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>This hair dye produces a deep black color, but cannot be -recommended, as it is injurious to the hair. Its full effects -appear only after the lapse of some hours.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Potassium Permanganate.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Potassium permanganate</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Distilled water</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Crystalline potassium permanganate is soluble in water, -forming a dark violet solution. When brought in contact -with an organic substance—paper, linen, skin, horn, hair—it -is rapidly decolored and imparts to the substances named a -brown tint due to hydrated oxide of manganese. The hair is -washed, as stated above, to remove the fat, and the dilute solution -applied with a soft brush; the color is produced at once -and according to the degree of dilution this innocuous preparation -can be made to give any desired color from blond to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_288">288</span> -very dark brown. Of course, this preparation can be used for -the beard as well as the hair.</p> - -<p>All the hair dyes here and elsewhere given stain the skin -as well wherever they come in contact with it; hence care -should be taken to protect the skin during their application.</p> - - -<h3>B. Double Hair Dyes.</h3> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Silver Hair Dyes.</span></h4> - -<p>This and similar hair dyes consist of two preparations, -preserved in bottles I. and II.; the latter, containing the silver -solution, should be of dark amber-colored or black glass, -as the silver salts are decomposed by light. It is utterly useless -to employ blue glass for this purpose, as this admits the -chemical rays of light as easily as flint glass. For use, some -of the liquid from bottle I. is poured into a cup and the hair -is moistened with it by means of a soft brush. The liquid -from bottle II. is poured into a second cup and applied with -another brush.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Brown Dye.</span></h4> - -<p>I. (<i>In White Bottle.</i>)</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sulphide of potassium</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>II. (<i>In Dark Bottle.</i>)</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Silver nitrate</td> - <td align="left">4¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Distilled water</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Black dye.</span></h4> - -<p>I. (<i>In White Bottle.</i>)</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sulphide of potassium</td> - <td align="left">½ lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>II. (<i>In Dark Bottle.</i>)</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Silver nitrate</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Distilled water</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_289">289</span></p> - -<p>The sulphide of potassium (liver of sulphur) appears in -fragments of a liver-brown mass which readily dissolves in -water. The solution must be filtered before being filled into -bottles for sale, and, as it becomes turbid in the air, kept in -well-closed vessels. When the two solutions are brought together, -black sulphide of silver results and darkens the hair. -After the use of this preparation a disagreeable odor of rotten -eggs adheres to the hair, but can be easily removed by washing, -especially with one of the previously mentioned hair -washes.</p> - -<p>The silver hair dye will be still better if the liquid contained -in bottle II. is made by dropping into the solution, -under continual stirring, ammonia water, until the precipitate -first formed is again dissolved.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Melanogène.</span></h3> - -<p>I. (<i>In Dark Bottle.</i>)</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Silver nitrate</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Distilled water</td> - <td align="left">2¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Ammonia water</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>II. (<i>In White Bottle.</i>)</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Pyrogallic acid</td> - <td align="left">15 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol of 40%</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Tannin Hair Dye.</span></h4> - -<p>I. (<i>In White Bottle.</i>)</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Powdered nut-galls</td> - <td align="left">14 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">1 pint.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Boil the nut-galls in the water, strain the boiling liquid -through a thick cloth into the rose water, and fill the still hot -mixture into bottles which must be immediately closed. (It -is essential that the liquid be hot during the filling, to guard -against the development of mould.)</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_290">290</span></p> - - -<p>II. (<i>In Dark Bottle.</i>)</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Silver nitrate</td> - <td align="left">5½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Distilled water</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Add ammonia water to the silver solution until the precipitate -first formed is again dissolved.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Eau d’Afrique.</span></h4> - -<p>I. (<i>In Dark Bottle.</i>)</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Silver nitrate</td> - <td align="left">45 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Distilled water</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>II. (<i>In White Bottle.</i>)</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sulphide of sodium</td> - <td align="left">120 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Distilled water</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Crinochrom.</span></h3> - -<p>I. (<i>In White Bottle.</i>)</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Pyrogallic acid</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Distilled water</td> - <td align="left">6¼ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Alcohol</td> - <td align="left">5¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>II. (<i>In Dark Bottle.</i>)</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Silver nitrate</td> - <td align="left">180 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Ammonia water</td> - <td align="left">2 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Distilled water</td> - <td align="left">10½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Copper Hair Dye.</span></h4> - -<p>I. (<i>In White Bottle.</i>)</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Ferrocyanide of potassium</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Distilled water</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>II. (<i>In Dark Bottle.</i>)</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sulphate of copper</td> - <td align="left">7 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Distilled water</td> - <td align="left">1 qt.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Add ammonia water to the copper solution until the light -blue precipitate first formed again dissolves to a rich, dark -blue liquid. This hair dye gives a dark brown color.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_291">291</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Eau de Fontaine de Jouvence</span>,</h4> - -<p>also called Auricome and Golden Hair Water, is no dye, but a -bleaching agent which changes dark hair to a light blond or -golden-yellow color. The preparation consists of peroxide of -hydrogen, a substance possessing marked bleaching properties.</p> - -<p>Peroxide of hydrogen, or hydrogen dioxide, is at the present -time made on a large scale by many manufacturers, and -readily obtainable in the market. It would therefore scarcely -pay any one to prepare it himself unless he were out of -reach of the usual channels of trade, so that he could not obtain -the preparation in a <em>fresh</em> state. Nevertheless it may be -useful to state how it is made. Barium dioxide (or peroxide), -which is a regular article of commerce, and is a stable compound -which will keep for any length of time if kept in -tightly closed bottles, is treated with water until the dioxide -forms with it a thin, smooth milk. This is gradually added -to dilute sulphuric acid, cooled with ice or kept otherwise as -cold as possible, until the sulphuric acid is almost entirely -neutralized. The solution is then allowed to settle and the -clear liquid drawn off. For bleaching purposes, this is pure -enough. Only it must be ascertained that the amount of free -acid present, without which the hydrogen dioxide does not -keep well, is only small. Other acids can be used besides -sulphuric, but the latter is the most convenient. If an alkali -is added to hydrogen dioxide so that the reaction becomes -alkaline, it will decompose very rapidly. Even under the -most favorable circumstances (when acid, and kept in a cool -place) it will gradually deteriorate, and finally be entirely converted -into oxygen gas, which escapes, and plain water.</p> - -<p>Peroxide or dioxide of hydrogen, when applied to the hair -as a bleaching agent, must be used in a dilute condition at -first. Those who use it for the first time should always make -preliminary trials with the liquid upon odd bunches of hair<span class="pagenum" id="Page_292">292</span> -(such as may at any time be procured at hair-dressers’ shops) -resembling that which is to be bleached, before actually applying -it to the latter.</p> - -<p>The hair to be bleached is deprived of fat by washing with -soap solution, the soap is washed out with water, and the peroxide -of hydrogen applied.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Whisker Dye.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">I. Acetate of lead</td> - <td align="left">1¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Distilled water 1 pint.</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">II. Caustic potassa</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Distilled water 1 qt.</span></td> -</tr> -</table></div> -<p>Dissolve the acetate of lead (“sugar of lead”) in the warm -water, filter the solution, and add ammonia water until a precipitate -ceases to form. Collect the precipitate on a filter, -wash it by pouring distilled water over it eight or ten times, -and while still moist introduce it into solution II. Stir repeatedly, -and after twelve hours leave the vessel at rest until -the solution has become clear. Then decant it from the sediment, -which may be treated a second time with solution II. -For use, the beard is washed with soap, and combed with a -fine rubber comb dipped in the solution.</p> - - -<h3>C. Depilatories.</h3> - -<p>Combinations of sulphur with the alkaline metals calcium, -barium, and strontium rapidly destroy the hair; for this reason -tanners use the “gas lime” from gas works, which contains -calcium sulphide, for removing the hair from hides. All -the depilatories used cosmetically, even rhusma employed in -the Orient for removing the beard, owe their activity to the -presence of calcium sulphide.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Calcium Sulphide</span></h4> - -<p>has usually been lauded as a perfectly harmless depilatory. -This is a great mistake, however, since it has often done seri<span class="pagenum" id="Page_293">293</span>ous -harm, through careless application by persons unfamiliar -with its caustic and corrosive effects. It is absolutely necessary -to protect the <em>skin</em> against its action; otherwise superficial -irritation, or even destruction of the skin may result.</p> - -<p>Calcium sulphide cannot be made by the action of sulphuretted -hydrogen upon lime. It is usually made by heating at -a low red heat, in a securely closed crucible, an intimate mixture -of 100 parts of finely powdered quicklime with 90 parts -of precipitated sulphur. Mix together:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Calcium sulphide</td> - <td align="left">4 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sugar</td> - <td align="left">2 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Water</td> - <td align="left">2 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Starch powder</td> - <td align="left">2 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">30 grains.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of peppermint</td> - <td align="left">10 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The resulting mass must be filled at once into an air-tight -jar, as the calcium sulphide is decomposed in the atmosphere. -For use, some of the mass is moistened with water, painted -on the skin, and washed off with water after thirty to forty-five -minutes. This and all other depilatories act only temporarily, -that is, they destroy only the hair projecting above -the surface without killing the hair bulbs; after some time -the hair grows again and the preparation must be reapplied.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Barium Sulphide</span>,</h4> - -<p>which is likewise used as a depilatory, is made by heating -barium sulphate with charcoal, extracting the residue with -water, and mixing the resulting product with starch paste. In -its effects barium sulphide equals the preceding preparation, -but it decomposes more readily.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Depilatory Paste.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Powdered caustic lime</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Starch powder</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Sodium sulphide</td> - <td align="left">21 oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_294">294</span></p> - -<p>Sodium sulphide is made by saturating strong caustic soda -solution with sulphuretted hydrogen. The other ingredients -are added to the solution of sodium sulphide.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Rhusma</span></h4> - -<p>is a depilatory made by mixing powdered quicklime (unslaked) -with orpiment (yellow sulphide of arsenic). Take of:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Quicklime</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Orpiment</td> - <td align="left">10½ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Mix intimately and preserve the powder in tightly closed -vessels. For use, take some of the powder, reduce it to a -thin paste with water, and apply it to the place upon which -the hairs are to be destroyed. Owing to its poisonousness -and the destructive effects of the caustic lime on the skin, -this preparation should never be employed in cosmetic perfumery.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIX" id="CHAPTER_XXIX">CHAPTER XXIX.</a><br /> - -<small>WAX POMADES, BANDOLINES, AND BRILLIANTINES.</small></h2> - - -<p>The so-called wax pomades, stick pomatum, and bandolines -serve to stiffen the hair and are frequently employed by -hair dressers. The former two articles possess some adhesive -power by which they fasten the hair together; bandolines are -mucilaginous fluids which generally contain bassorin (or vegetable -mucilage present in tragacanth), quince seeds, etc.</p> - - -<h3>A. Wax Pomades.</h3> - -<h4><span class="smcap">Stick Pomatum.</span></h4> - -<p>This is usually formed into oval or round sticks which are -wrapped in tin foil. They are colored and perfumed as desired. -The ordinary varieties are: white, for light blond hair,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_295">295</span> -which is left uncolored; pink, colored with carmine; brown, -colored with umber; and black, colored with bone black. The -coloring matters are always rubbed up with oil. Red pomatum -may be colored with alkanet root, which is macerated for -some time with the melted fat. The base of these preparations -consists of:</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Lard</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tallow</td> - <td align="left">12 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">6 lb.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The mass may be made harder or softer by increasing or -diminishing the wax. The perfumes generally used are oils -of bergamot, lemon, clove, and thyme, with an addition of -some Peru balsam.</p> - - -<h3>B. Beard Wax.</h3> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Beard Wax (Cire à Moustaches).</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Turpentine</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Expressed oil of almond</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Wax</td> - <td align="left">6 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Violet pomade</td> - <td align="left">2 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Peru balsam</td> - <td align="left">1 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of clove</td> - <td align="left">1 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of santal</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of cinnamon</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Hungarian Beard Wax (Cire à Moustache Hongroise.)</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Castile soap, powdered</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Mucilage of acacia</td> - <td align="left">10 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">White wax</td> - <td align="left">9 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Glycerin</td> - <td align="left">3½ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">20 drops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">10 drops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of rose</td> - <td align="left">10 drops.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Rub the powdered soap with the mucilage, previously diluted -with nine ounces of water, then add the wax and gly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_296">296</span>cerin, -and heat the mass on a water-bath, stirring constantly, -until it becomes homogeneous. Lastly add the oils, and pour -the mass into suitable moulds.</p> - -<p>For brown or black wax the corresponding color is added. -The mass is formed into sticks the thickness of a lead pencil.</p> - - -<h3>C. Bandolines.</h3> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Bandoline aux Amandes.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Tragacanth</td> - <td align="left">14 oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Rose water</td> - <td align="left">8 qts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bitter almond</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<p>Crush the tragacanth, place it in the rose water, and leave -it at rest in a warm spot, stirring occasionally, until the tragacanth -has swollen to a slimy mass. Press it first through a -coarse and then through a finer cloth, add a little carmine and -the oil of bitter almond.</p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Bandoline à la Rose.</span></h4> - -<p>This is made like the preceding, only substituting 1½ oz. -of oil of rose for the oil of bitter almond. Other varieties -may be produced by the use of different odors.</p> - - -<h3>D. Brillantines.</h3> - -<p>Under various names preparations are placed on the market -which render the hair both soft and glossy. The chief -constituent of all these articles is glycerin which is perfumed -according to taste and stained reddish or violet. As many -aniline colors easily dissolve in glycerin, they are generally -used for this purpose. Formerly, before glycerin was obtainable -in sufficient purity, brillantines were chiefly made of castor -oil dissolved in alcohol, but aside from the fact that glycerin -is cheaper than castor oil with alcohol, the former is -preferable, as alcohol injures the hair.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_297">297</span></p> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Brillantine.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Glycerin</td> - <td align="left">8 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Extract of jasmine (or other flower)</td> - <td align="left">2 qts.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - -<h4><span class="smcap">Oléolisse.</span></h4> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="left">Glycerin</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Castor oil</td> - <td align="left">4 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of bergamot</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of lemon</td> - <td align="left">¾ oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td align="left">Oil of neroli</td> - <td align="left">150 grains.</td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXX" id="CHAPTER_XXX">CHAPTER XXX.</a><br /> - -<small>THE COLORS USED IN PERFUMERY.</small></h2> - - -<p>In perfumes in which next to the odor, the appearance is -of importance, the colors play a prominent part.</p> - -<p>In handkerchief perfumes, any accidental color present is -an obstacle, as it would cause stains on the material. Hence -the aim is to obtain the perfumes colorless or—a highly prized -quality in fine articles—they receive a pale green color which -disappears on drying. Extract of cassie possesses this color, -and in many cases this extract is added to perfumes for the -purpose of giving them this favorite color.</p> - -<p>Regarding the colors employed for other articles—emulsions, -pomades, soaps, etc.—it may be stated as a general rule -that a preparation named after a certain flower must possess -the color of the latter. Hence all perfumes named after the -rose should be rose red; violet perfumes, violet; those bearing -the name of the lily or white rose must be colorless, etc.</p> - -<p>The best for articles containing alcohol or glycerin are the -aniline colors, both on account of their beautiful appearance -and their extraordinary staining power. But an insurmountable -obstacle is met with in their use for articles containing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_298">298</span> -animal or vegetable fats which rapidly destroy many aniline -colors. When a rose pomade is colored with aniline red, the -fine delicate tint hardly lasts three or four weeks and changes -into dirty gray. The same is true of aniline violet in violet -pomade, etc.</p> - -<p>Therefore, articles containing fat must receive other dye-stuffs, -and in the following pages we briefly enumerate those -we have found most appropriate; but it must be observed -that all poisonous dyes must be absolutely excluded. Commercial -aniline colors formerly often contained arsenic; at the -present time other processes are usually employed for their -preparation, not involving the employment of arsenious acid.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Yellow Colors.</span></h3> - - -<p class="center"><i>Saffron.</i></p> - -<p>The stigmata of Crocus sativus contain a bright yellow or -orange yellow coloring matter which is easily extracted by -alcohol, petroleum ether, or fat. We prefer petroleum ether -in which the finely powdered saffron is macerated, the greater -portion of the solvent being distilled off, and the rest of the -solution is allowed to evaporate, when the pure coloring matter -is left and can be easily mixed with fat. The coloring -matter may also be obtained by macerating the saffron in -melted lard or in olive oil.</p> - - -<p class="center"><i>Jonquille Pomade.</i></p> - -<p>Genuine jonquille pomade, from Narcissus Jonquilla, has a -handsome yellow color which is derived from the dark yellow -flowers; for this reason small quantities of jonquille pomade -are sometimes used for coloring pomades for the hair.</p> - - -<p class="center"><i>Curcuma or Turmeric.</i></p> - -<p>Curcuma or turmeric root contains a very beautiful yellow -coloring matter which is easily extracted by alcohol or -petroleum ether. We prepare it in the same manner as stated<span class="pagenum" id="Page_299">299</span> -under the head of saffron. Curcuma color cannot be used -for articles containing free alkali, which changes it to brown.</p> - - -<p class="center"><i>Palm Oil.</i></p> - -<p>has naturally a fine yellow color, which it imparts also to soaps -prepared from it; but the color fades completely when the -wet soap is exposed to the air.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Red Colors.</span></h3> - - -<p class="center"><i>Carmine.</i></p> - -<p>This magnificent, though very expensive color is obtained -from the cochineal insect, Coccus cacti. If good carmine is -not available, a substitute may be made, for the purpose of -coloring perfumery articles, by powdering cochineal, treating -it with dilute caustic ammonia, and, after adding some alum -solution, exposing it to the air and direct sunlight, when the -coloring matter separates in handsome red flakes, which are -collected and dried.</p> - - -<p class="center"><i>Carthamin Red.</i></p> - -<p>Safflower, the blossoms of Carthamus tinctorius, contains -two coloring matters, yellow and red. The former is extracted -with water from the dried flowers, and the residue is -treated with a weak soda solution which dissolves the red coloring -matter. When this solution is gradually diluted with -acetic acid, the dye is precipitated, and after drying forms a -mass with a greenish metallic lustre. This, when reduced to -powder, is used for rouge en feuilles or rouge en tasses.</p> - -<p>This coloring matter can also be prepared by introducing -into the soda solution some clean white cotton on which the -color is precipitated and can then be extracted with alcohol.</p> - - -<p class="center"><i>Alkanet.</i></p> - -<p>This root, which is readily obtained in the market, contains -a beautiful red coloring matter which can be extracted with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_300">300</span> -petroleum ether, but is also easily soluble in fats (melted lard -or warm oil). Even small amounts of it produce a handsome -rose red and larger quantities a dark purple. For pomades, -hair oils, and emulsions alkanet root is the best coloring matter, -as it stains them rapidly, is lasting, and cheap.</p> - - -<p class="center"><i>Rhatany.</i></p> - -<p>Rhatany root furnishes a reddish-brown coloring matter -which is soluble in alcohol and is extracted with it from the -comminuted root, especially for tooth tinctures and mouth -washes. For the same purpose use may also be made of red -santal wood and Pernambuco wood which likewise yield to -alcohol, besides astringents, beautiful colors which are very -suitable for such preparations.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Green Colors.</span></h3> - - -<p class="center"><i>Chlorophyll.</i></p> - -<p>The green coloring matter of leaves is easily extracted -from them, when bruised, with alcohol, and is left behind after -the evaporation of the solvent. Some powders which are to -have a green color are mixed directly with dried and finely -divided bright green leaves such as spinach, celery, parsley -leaves, etc.</p> - -<p>For soap it is customary to use a mixture of yellow and -blue which together produce a green color. Take a yellow -soap, melt it, and add to it the finest powder of smalt or -ultramarine until the desired tint is obtained. Indigo-carmine -cannot be used, as it would impart a blue color to the skin.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Blue Colors.</span></h3> - -<p>For many preparations smalt or ultramarine is employed, -but these colors are insoluble. The only soluble blue colors -are aniline blue and indigo-carmine; the latter has a beautiful<span class="pagenum" id="Page_301">301</span> -and intense color, but is suitable only for pomades and not -for soaps because, as stated above, it would stain the skin.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Violet</span></h3> - -<p>is produced by a mixture of red and blue in due proportions.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Brown</span></h3> - -<p>is produced by caramel, which is made by heating sugar in an -iron pot until it changes into a deep black mass which is -brown only in thin threads. This color dissolves easily in -water (not in alcohol) and is very suitable for soaps.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Black</span></h3> - -<p>is produced by finely divided vegetable or bone black. -Liquids are colored with India ink which remains suspended -for a long time owing to the fine division of the carbon.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXXI" id="CHAPTER_XXXI">CHAPTER XXXI.</a><br /> - -<small>THE UTENSILS USED IN THE TOILET.</small></h2> - - -<p>In the toilet, besides combs and hair brushes, use is made -of powder puffs, tooth brushes, and bath sponges. Powder -puffs are made from swan skins, but should be used rather for -the even division of the powder or paint than for its application. -For the latter purpose a piece of soft glove or chamois -leather is best.</p> - -<p>The commercial tooth brushes are almost without exception -objectionable owing to the stiffness of the bristles. A suitable -tooth brush should be made of very soft, flexible bristles, -lest it wear away the enamel.</p> - -<p>Particular attention should be devoted to bath sponges. -Their value is proportionate to the fineness of the pores, their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_302">302</span> -softness and elasticity, and their spherical shape. Crude -sponges are best cleansed by being placed in dilute hydrochloric -acid which dissolves the calcareous particles adhering -to them.</p> - -<p>They are bleached as follows.</p> - -<p>Free them as far as possible from sand and other foreign -matters. Then wash them thoroughly with water, and press -them. Next introduce them into a solution of permanganate -of potassium containing one ounce of the salt in a gallon; leave -them in this liquid two or three minutes; then take them out, -express the liquid (which can be several times used over again), -wash them with water until no more violet-tinted liquid runs -from them, and then immerse them in a solution of one part -of hyposulphite of sodium in twenty parts of water, to which -immediately before dipping the sponges one part of hydrochloric -acid has been added. When the sponge’s are white, -remove them and wash them thoroughly with water.</p> - -<p>After prolonged use, bath sponges lose their elasticity and -softness. These properties can be restored by dipping the -sponges into a mixture of one part by measure of glycerin -and eight parts of water, pressing out the excess of the liquid -and allowing them to dry. The small quantity of glycerin -which they contain prevents their hardening.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_303">303</span></p> - - - - -<h2 id="INDEX">INDEX.</h2> - -<div class="index"> -<ul class="index"> - -<li class="ifrst">À la mode perfume, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Absorption, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Acacia farnesiana, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Acetic ether, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Acid, acetic, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a></li> -<li class="isub1">benzoic, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a></li> -<li class="isub1">carbonic, apparatus, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> -<li class="isub1">carbonic, for absorption of odors, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfumes, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pyrogallic, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a></li> -<li class="isub1">salicylic, preservation of fats by, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Acorus Calamus, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Adulteration of essential oils with alcohol, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of essential oils with fixed oils, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of essential oils with other essential oils, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of essential oils with paraffin, spermaceti, or wax, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Adulterations of essential oils and their recognition, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Alcohol, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li> -<li class="isub1">absolute, manufacture of, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li> -<li class="isub1">amyl, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a></li> -<li class="isub1">percentage tables of, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a></li> -<li class="isub1">source of, influence on perfumes, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Alcoholometer, Tralles’, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Alkanet, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Alloxan, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Allspice, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Allspice, essence of, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Almond and honey paste, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> -<li class="isub1">balls, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cold-cream, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cream, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> -<li class="isub1">meal, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> -<li class="isub1">paste, simple, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Almonds, bitter, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sweet, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Aloysia citriodora, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Amandes amères, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Amandes douces, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Amandine, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ambergris, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture of, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ambra grisea, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ammonia, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a></li> -<li class="isub1">carbonate of, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ammoniacal perfumes, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Amygdala amara, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> -<li class="isub1">dulcis, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Amyl alcohol, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ananas, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ancients, perfumery among the, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Andropogon citratus, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> -<li class="isub1">laniger, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> -<li class="isub1">muricatus, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Nardus, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Schoenanthus, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Aneth, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Anethum graveolens, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Animal substances used in perfumery, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Anise, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Anti-Odorin, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Apple ether, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Aromatic substances, division of, according to their origin, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li> -<li class="isub1">substances in general, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a></li> -<li class="isub1">substances, relative strength of, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a></li> -<li class="isub1">substances, special characteristics of, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li> -<li class="isub1">substances, vegetable, chemical constitution of, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a></li> -<li class="isub1">substances, vegetable, employed in perfumery, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vinegar, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a></li> -<li class="isub1">waters, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Aspic, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Attar of rose, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Auricome, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Badiane, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Baguettes encensoires, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Baisers du printemps, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Balm, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Balsamodendron Kafal, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Myrrha, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Balsamum peruvianum, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tolutanum, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bandolines, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Barium sulphide, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Baume de Milan pour les cheveux, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a></li> -<li class="isub1">du Pérou, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de Tolou, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bay rum, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sweet, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> -<li class="isub1">West Indian, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Beard producer, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a></li> -<li class="isub1">wax, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bear’s-grease pomade, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Beef-marrow pomade, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Benjoin, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Benzene, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Benzin, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Benzoated oil, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Benzoic acid, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a></li> -<li class="isub1">acid, sublimed, manufacture of, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_304">304</span></li> - - -<li class="indx">Benzoin, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a></li> -<li class="isub1">and benzoic acid, use of, for preventing rancidity of fats, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture of, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Benzol, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bergamot, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> -<li class="isub1">essence of, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bisamkörner, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bismuth, subnitrate of, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bismuth white, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bisulphide of carbon, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bitter almond, essence of, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a></li> -<li class="isub1">almond milk, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> -<li class="isub1">almonds, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Black color, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Blanc de bismuth, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de perles, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a></li> -<li class="isub1">français, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perle liquide, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bleu végetal pour les veines, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Blossom pomade, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Blue colors, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bois de camphre, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de cèdre, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de rose, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Borated tooth powder, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tooth tincture, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Borax, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bouquet à la maréchale, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cosmopolite, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a></li> -<li class="isub1">court, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a></li> -<li class="isub1">d’Andorre, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de Chypre, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de fleurs, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de flore, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de la cour, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de l’Alhambra, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de l’amour, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de Stamboul, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li> -<li class="isub1">d’Esterhazy, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de Virginie, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> -<li class="isub1">des chasseurs, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a></li> -<li class="isub1">des délices, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li> -<li class="isub1">d’Irlande, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> -<li class="isub1">du Bosphore, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a></li> -<li class="isub1">du Japon, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> -<li class="isub1">heliotrope, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li> -<li class="isub1">leap-year, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Royal Horse-Guard’s, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bouquets, manufacture of, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Brillantines, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bromelia Ananas, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Brown color, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bruges ribbons, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Buckingham flowers, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Cachous aromatisées, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cajuput leaves, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Calamus, essence of, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Calcium sulphide, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Camphor, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a></li> -<li class="isub1">balls, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Camphor cold-cream, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ice, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a></li> -<li class="isub1">wood, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Camphorated chalk tooth powder, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Cologne water, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Canelle, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cantharidal pomade, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cantharides, tincture of, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Caramel, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Carbon, bisulphide of, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Carbonate of ammonia, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Carbonic acid apparatus, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> -<li class="isub1">acid for absorption of odors, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Carmine, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Carthamin red, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Carum Carvi, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Carvi, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Caryophylli, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Caryophyllus aromaticus, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cascarilla bark, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> -<li class="isub1">gratissima, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cassia, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cassie, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a></li> -<li class="isub1">extract of, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Castor, Castoreum, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture of, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Castor-oil pomade, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cedar, essence of, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfume, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture of, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a></li> -<li class="isub1">wood, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cèdre du Libanon perfume, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cedrus libanotica, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ceylon sachet powder, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chalk, prepared, manufacture of, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Venetian, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chapped skin, lotion for, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Characteristics, special, of aromatic substances, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Charcoal objectionable as a tooth powder, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tooth powder, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cheiranthus Cheiri, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chemical constitution of vegetable aromatic substances, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a></li> -<li class="isub1">products used for the preparation of perfumes, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li> -<li class="isub1">products used in perfumery, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chemicals used for the extraction of aromatic substances, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cherry salve, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cherrylaurel leaves, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chèvre-feuille, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> - -<li class="indx">China rose perfume, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a></li> -<li class="isub1">roses, extract of, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chinese gelatin, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tooth powder, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chloral mouth wash, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chloroform, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chlorophyll, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cinchona bark tooth powder, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cinnamomum, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_305">305</span></li> - -<li class="indx">Cinnamomum Culilavan Nees, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> -<li class="isub1">zeylanicum, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cinnamon, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Chinese, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture of, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Circassian pomade, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cire à moustaches, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Citron, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a></li> -<li class="isub1">flowers, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Citronella, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> -<li class="isub1">essence of, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Citrus Aurantium, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Bergamia, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> -<li class="isub1">limetta, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Limonum, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> -<li class="isub1">medica, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vulgaris, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Civet, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture of, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Civetta, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Clous de girofle, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Clove, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> -<li class="isub1">essence of, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cold-creams and lip salves, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cologne cold-cream, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a></li> -<li class="isub1">water, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Colors used in perfumery, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Concombre, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Convallaria perfume, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Convolvulus floridus, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a></li> -<li class="isub1">scoparius, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cortex Aurantii, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Cascarillæ, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Culilavan, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cosmetic perfumery, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cosmetics, hair, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a></li> -<li class="isub1">skin, and face lotions, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a></li> -<li class="isub1">skin, red, <a href='#Page_272'>272</a></li> -<li class="isub1">skin, white, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Couronne de fleurs, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Court bouquet, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Craie venétienne, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Crême de Cologne, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de moëlle, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de ricine, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de vanille, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de violettes, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Crinochrom, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Crisp mint, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Croton Eluteria, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Crystallized oil, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cucumber, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cold-cream, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a></li> -<li class="isub1">extract of, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a></li> -<li class="isub1">milk, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cucumis sativus, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Culilaban bark, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cuminum Cyminum, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Curcuma, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Currant, black, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cuscus, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cuttlefish-bone tooth powder <a href='#Page_263'>263</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cyprian sachet powder, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Dandelion milk, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Depilatories, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Dianthus caryophyllus, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Dill, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Dipteryx odorata, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Displacement, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Distillation, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a></li> -<li class="isub1">fractional, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Divine pomade, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Dog-rose perfume, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Double pomades, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Drop presses, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Dry perfumes, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Dye, black, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a></li> -<li class="isub1">brown, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vegetable, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Eau anathérine, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> -<li class="isub1">d’Afrique, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li> -<li class="isub1">d’anges, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> -<li class="isub1">d’Athènes, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de Berlin, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de Botot, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de Cologne, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de fleurs, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de fontaine de jouvence, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de laurier, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de lavande à mille fleurs, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de lavande ambrée, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de lavande double, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de Leipsic, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de Lisbonne, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de Luce, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de Mialhe, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de Milan, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de mille fleurs, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de mille fleurs à palmarose, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de perles, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de romarin, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de rose triple, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de roses, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de salvia, <a href='#Page_268'>268</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de violettes, <a href='#Page_268'>268</a></li> -<li class="isub1">du Portugal, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> -<li class="isub1">glycerinée aux cantharides, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a></li> -<li class="isub1">hongroise, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> -<li class="isub1">japonaise, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> -<li class="isub1">lenticuleuse, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> -<li class="isub1">saponique, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Victoria, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Eaux aromatisées, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li> -<li class="isub1">encensoires, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ecorce culilaban, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> -<li class="isub1">d’oranges, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Eglantine perfume, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Elais guineensis, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Elder flowers, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Emulsions, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a>, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Encens, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Enfleurage, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Esprit de roses triple, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ess. bouquet, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Essence de roses blanches, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_306">306</span></li> - -<li class="indx">Essence de roses jaunes, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de roses jumelles, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de styrax, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a></li> -<li class="isub1">definition of, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a></li> -<li class="isub1">des bouquets, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a></li> -<li class="isub1">meaning of the French term, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of mirbane, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Essences dentifrices, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> -<li class="isub1">directions for making, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a></li> -<li class="isub1">employed in perfumery, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a></li> -<li class="isub1">fruit, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a></li> -<li class="isub1">removal of fat from, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Essential oil a misnomer, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oils, adulteration of, with alcohol, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oils, adulteration of, with fixed oils, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oils, adulteration of, with other essential oils, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oils, adulteration of, with paraffin, spermaceti, or wax, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oils, adulterations of, and their recognition, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oils, chemical and physical properties of, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oils, final purification of, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oils, oxygenation of, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oils, preservation of, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oils, table showing the approximate density, boiling and congealing points of, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oils, yield of, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Esterhazy bouquet, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ether, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a></li> -<li class="isub1">acetic, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li> -<li class="isub1">apple, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li> -<li class="isub1">nitrous, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li> -<li class="isub1">œnanthic, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pear, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li> -<li class="isub1">petroleum, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pine-apple, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ethers, fruit, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Eugenia Pimenta, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Excelsior extraction apparatus, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Extract, definition of, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Extraction, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a></li> -<li class="isub1">apparatus, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a> et seq.</li> -<li class="isub1">of aromatic substances, chemicals used for, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of odors, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Extracts, directions for making, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a></li> -<li class="isub1">employed in perfumery, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Extrait d’amande, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a></li> -<li class="isub1">d’ambre, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a></li> -<li class="isub1">d’ambregris, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a></li> -<li class="isub1">d’ambrette, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de baume de tolou, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de benjoin, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de bergamotte, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de bois de cèdre, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de canelle, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de cassie, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de castoreum, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de cèdre, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de chèvre-feuille, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de civette, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de clous de girofles, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de concombre, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de fleurs d’oranges, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de gaulthérie, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de giroflé, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de glaïeul, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a></li> -<li class="isub1">d’églantine, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de héliotrope, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de jasmin, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de jonquille, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de lavande, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de lilas, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de limon, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de lys, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de magnolia, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de menthe, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de mignonette, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de musc, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de myrte, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de narcisse, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a></li> -<li class="isub1">d’encens, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de néroli, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de patchouli, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de Pérou, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de piment, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de pois de senteur, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de rosa théa, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de rose, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de roses mousseuses, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de roses triple, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de santal, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de Schoenanthe, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de tonka, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de tuberose, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de vanille, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de verveine, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de vétiver, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de violette, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de volcameria, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a></li> -<li class="isub1">d’iris, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li> -<li class="isub1">d’oeillet, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> -<li class="isub1">d’oliban, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a></li> -<li class="isub1">végétal, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Fabæ Tonkæ, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Face lotions, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Farine d’amandes, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de pistaches, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fats, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a></li> -<li class="isub1">purification of, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a></li> -<li class="isub1">rancidity of, prevention of, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fennel, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fenouil, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ferula Sumbul, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fèves de Tonka, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Field-flower sachet powder, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fiori d’Italia, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fleurs de citron, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de mai perfume, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de Montpellier, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a></li> -<li class="isub1"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_307">307</span>des champs, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a></li> -<li class="isub1">d’oranges, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> -<li class="isub1">solsticiales, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Florentine flasks, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Flores Aurantii, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Citri, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Loniceræ, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Sambuci, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Syringæ, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Florida perfume, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Flowers of the Isle of Wight perfume, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fœniculum vulgare, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Folia Cajuputi, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Laurocerasi, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Forest-breeze perfume, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Formulas for handkerchief perfumes, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a></li> -<li class="isub1">for pomades and hair oils, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a></li> -<li class="isub1">for sachets, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a></li> -<li class="isub1">for toilet vinegars, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fractional distillation, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Frangipanni sachet powder, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Freckle lotion, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> -<li class="isub1">milk, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a></li> - -<li class="indx">French flower farms, annual production of, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a></li> -<li class="isub1">white, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fructus Citri, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fruit essences, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ethers, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fumigating paper, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pastils, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pencils, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> -<li class="isub1">powders, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ribbons, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> -<li class="isub1">waters and vinegars, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fumigation, perfumes used for, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Funnel, separating, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fusel oils, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Garland of flowers perfume, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gaultheria procumbens, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gaulthérie, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gelatin, Chinese, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Geranium, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> -<li class="isub1">essence of, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ginger grass, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Giroflé, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Glycerin, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cold-cream, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cosmetic use of, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cream, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> -<li class="isub1">emulsions, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> -<li class="isub1">jelly, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Golden hair water, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Grains d’ambrette, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Green colors, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gum wax, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Hair cosmetics, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a></li> -<li class="isub1">dye, copper, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li> -<li class="isub1">dye, lead, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a></li> -<li class="isub1">dyes and depilatories, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a></li> -<li class="isub1">dyes, double, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a></li> -<li class="isub1">dyes, silver, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a></li> -<li class="isub1">simple, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oils and pomades, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oils, formulas for, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a></li> -<li class="isub1">restorer, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tonics, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a></li> -<li class="isub1">washes, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Handkerchief perfumes, formulas for, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfumes, manufacture of, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hedyosmum flowers, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Heliotrope, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> -<li class="isub1">bouquet, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li> -<li class="isub1">extract of, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a></li> -<li class="isub1">hair oil, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfume, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sachet powder, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Heliotropin, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Heliotropium peruvianum, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hepar sulphuris, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Herba Majoranæ, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hibiscus Abelmoschus, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> - -<li class="indx">History of perfumery, <a href='#Page_1'>1</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Homœopathic chalk tooth powder, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Honeysuckle, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> -<li class="isub1">extract of, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfume, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hovenia perfume, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Huile à benjamin, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a></li> -<li class="isub1">à l’ess-bouquet, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a></li> -<li class="isub1">crystallisée, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de jasmin, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de mille fleurs, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de palme, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a></li> -<li class="isub1">héliotrope, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a></li> -<li class="isub1">philocome, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hungarian beard wax, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> -<li class="isub1">water, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Huntsman’s nosegay, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hydrogen dioxide, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hygienic and cosmetic perfumery, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hyraceum, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hyssop, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hyssopus officinalis, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Illicium anisatum, I. religiosum, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Incense powder, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Indian sachet powder, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Inexhaustible salt, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Infusion, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cold and warm, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Iris, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a></li> -<li class="isub1">florentina, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Iwarankusa, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Jasmine, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> -<li class="isub1">emulsion, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> -<li class="isub1">extract of, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a></li> -<li class="isub1">hair oil, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Jasminum odoratissimum, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Jockey club, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Juniperus virginiana, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Jonquille, extract of, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfume, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a> - -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_308">308</span></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Kaloderm, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Karsi, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kiss me quick perfume, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kohol, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Lait antéphelique, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a></li> -<li class="isub1">d’amandes amères, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de concombre, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de lilas, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de pistaches, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de roses, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> -<li class="isub1">virginal, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lathyrus tuberosus, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Laurier, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Laurier-cérise, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Laurus nobilis, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lavande, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lavandula vera, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lavender, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> -<li class="isub1">essence of, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfumes, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sachet powder, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Leap-year bouquet, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lemon, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> -<li class="isub1">essence of, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a></li> -<li class="isub1">grass, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> -<li class="isub1">grass, essence of, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lignum Camphoræ, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Cedri, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Rhodii, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Sassafras, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lilac, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> -<li class="isub1">extract of, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a></li> -<li class="isub1">milk, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfume, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lilas, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lilionese, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lilium candidum, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lily, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> -<li class="isub1">extract of, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfume, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of the valley extract, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of the valley perfume, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Limon, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Liquidambar orientalis, L. styraciflua, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Liquidamber, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lip salve, white and red, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a></li> -<li class="isub1">salves and cold-creams, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lis, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Liver of sulphur, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lonicera Caprifolium, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lotion for chapped skin, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lotions, face, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Macassar oil, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mace, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Maceration, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Maces, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Magnolia, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a></li> -<li class="isub1">extract of, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a></li> -<li class="isub1">grandiflora, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfume, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mallard’s toilet vinegar, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Marjolaine, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Marjoram, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Marrow cream, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Marshal sachet powder, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Meadow-sweet, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Meals and pastes, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Melaleuca Cajuputi, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Melanogène, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Melissa officinalis, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mentha aquatica, M. crispa, M. piperita, M. viridis, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Menthe crépue, poivrée, verde, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mignonette, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Milk, vegetable, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mille fleurs sachet powder, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mint, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Moschus, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Moss-rose, extract of, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfume, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mousseline perfume, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mouth, preparations for the care of, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a></li> -<li class="isub1">washes, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Murexide paint, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Muscade, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Musk, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a></li> -<li class="isub1">paste, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfume, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture of, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Musk-seed, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture of, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Muslin sachet powder, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Myrcia acris, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Myristica, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Myristica fragrans, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Myrrh, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tooth tincture, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Myrrha, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Myrtle, extract of, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a></li> -<li class="isub1">leaves, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfume, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Myrtus communis, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Nail powder, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Narcissus, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> -<li class="isub1">extract of, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Jonquilla, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfume, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a></li> -<li class="isub1">poeticus, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Nardostachys Jatamansi, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Navy’s nosegay, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Neroli, extract of, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a></li> - -<li class="indx">New-mown hay, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Nitrobenzol, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Nitrous ether, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Nosegay perfume, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Nutmeg, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> -<li class="isub1">butter, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Odors, extraction of, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a></li> -<li class="isub1">from pomades, abstraction of, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li> -<li class="isub1">from the vegetable kingdom, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Œillet, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Œnanthic ether, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Oil, benzoated, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a></li> -<li class="isub1"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_309">309</span>crystallized, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a></li> -<li class="isub1">macassar, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of allspice, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of anise, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of bergamot, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of bitter almonds, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of bitter almonds, artificial, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of burdock root, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of cajuput, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of calamus, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of caraway, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of cascarilla, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of cassia, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of cassie, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of cedar, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of chamomile, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of cherry-laurel, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of cinnamon, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of citron, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of citronella, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of clove, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of coriander, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of crispmint, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of culilaban, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of elder, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of geranium, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of heliotrope, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of hyssop, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of jasmine, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of laurel, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of lavender, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of lemon, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of lemon-grass, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of lilac, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of lily, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of mace, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of magnolia, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of marjoram, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of meadowsweet, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of melissa, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of mignonette, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of mirbane, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of myrtle, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of narcissus, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of néroli bigarade, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of néroli pétale, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of nutmeg, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of orange, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of orange bigarade, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of orange flowers, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of patchouly, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of peppermint, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of petit grain, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of pink, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of Portugal, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of reseda, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of rhodium, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of rose, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of rosemary, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of rue, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of sage, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of sandal wood, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of santal, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of sassafras, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of spearmint, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of star-anise, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of sweet bay, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of sweet pea, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of Swiss herbs, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of syringa, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of thyme, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of turpentine, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of vanilla, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of verbena, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of vetiver, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of violet, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of wallflower, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of wintergreen, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of ylang-ylang, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a></li> -<li class="isub1">palm, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Oils, essential, adulterations of, and their recognition, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a></li> -<li class="isub1">essential, see also Essential oils</li> -<li class="isub1">fusel, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of mint, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a></li> -<li class="isub1">purification of, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Oléolisse, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Oleum Amygdalæ amaræ, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Anisi Stellati, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Cajuputi, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Calami, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Cari, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Caryophylli, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Cassiæ, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Chamomillæ, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Cinnamomi, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Citri, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Coriandri, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Culilavani, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Gaultheriæ, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Hyssopi, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Illicii, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Ivaranchusæ, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Lauri, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Lavandulæ, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Limonis, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Macidis, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Majoranæ, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Menthæ crispæ, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Menthæ piperitæ, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Myristicæ, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Naphæ, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Neroli, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Palmæ, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Rosmarini, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Rutæ, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Salviæ, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Sambuci, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Santali, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Sassafras, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Spirææ, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Terebinthinæ, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Thymi, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Unonæ odoratissimæ, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Olibanum, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture of, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Olivine, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_310">310</span></li> - -<li class="indx">Olla podrida sachet powder, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Opopanax, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Orange flower, extract of, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a></li> -<li class="isub1">flower pomade, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a></li> -<li class="isub1">flowers, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> -<li class="isub1">peel, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Origanum, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Majorana (vulgare), <a href='#Page_37'>37</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Orris root, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a></li> -<li class="isub1">root, tincture of, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Otto of rose, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Oxidation of essential oils, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Oxide of tin, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Palm oil, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Paper, fumigating, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Paraffin, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Paste, Spanish, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pastes and meals, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pastilles du sérail, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> -<li class="isub1">enbaumées, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> -<li class="isub1">odoriférantes, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> -<li class="isub1">orientales, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pastils, fumigating, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Patchouly, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a></li> -<li class="isub1">essence of, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfume, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a></li> -<li class="isub1">powder, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pâte camphorique, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a></li> -<li class="isub1">d’amandes au miel, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> -<li class="isub1">d’amandes simple, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a></li> -<li class="isub1">dentifrice, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pear ether, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pearl white, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Peau d’Espagne, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pelargonium roseum, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pencils, fumigating, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Peppermint, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> -<li class="isub1">essence of, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Perfumery, cosmetic, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a></li> -<li class="isub1">division of, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a></li> -<li class="isub1">history of, <a href='#Page_1'>1</a></li> -<li class="isub1">hygienic and cosmetic, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Perfumes, acid, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ammoniacal, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a></li> -<li class="isub1">dry, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a></li> -<li class="isub1">used for fumigation, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Permanganate of potassium, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Peroxide of hydrogen, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Persian sachet powder, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Peru balsam, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a></li> -<li class="isub1">balsam, tincture of, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a></li> -<li class="isub1">hair oil, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Petroleum ether, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Philadelphus coronarius, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Philocome hair oil, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pimenta, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pimpinella Anisum, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pine-apple, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ether, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pine-needle odor, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pink, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pink, extract of, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfume, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Piperonal, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pistachio meal, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">milk, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Place of growth of plants, influence on their odor, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Plumeria, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pogostemon Patchouly, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pois de senteur, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Polianthus tuberosa, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Polyanthus perfume, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pomade à fleurs, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> -<li class="isub1">à fleurs d’oranges, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a></li> -<li class="isub1">à graisse d’ours, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> -<li class="isub1">à la rose pour les lèvres, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a></li> -<li class="isub1">à moëlle de bœuf, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a></li> -<li class="isub1">à quinquine, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a></li> -<li class="isub1">blanche pour les lèvres, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cerise, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de héliotrope, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a></li> -<li class="isub1">des violettes, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a></li> -<li class="isub1">divine, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a></li> -<li class="isub1">philocome, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pomades and hair oils, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a></li> -<li class="isub1">formulas for, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pomatum, stick, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Portugal oil, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a></li> -<li class="indx">sachet powder, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Potassii sulphuretum, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a></li> -<li class="isub1">permanganas, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Potassium permanganate hair dye, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a></li> -<li class="isub1">permanganate water, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sulphide of, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Potpourri sachet powder, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Poudre à la rose, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a></li> -<li class="isub1">à la violette, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a></li> -<li class="isub1">blanche surfine, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de la reine, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a></li> -<li class="isub1">d’encens, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de pistaches, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de riz, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a></li> -<li class="isub1">impériale, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pour les ongles, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a></li> -<li class="isub1">royale, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Poudres encensoires, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Powder, incense, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Powders, toilet, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Preparations for the care of the mouth, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pressure, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Preston salt, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Prunus laurocerasus, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pterocarpus santalinus, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pulchérine, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pumice stone objectionable as a tooth powder, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pyrogallic acid, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Queen Victoria’s perfume, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Quinine tooth powder, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Racine de glaïeule, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li> - -<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_311">311</span>Radix Calami, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Iridis florentinæ, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Sumbul, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rancidity of fats, prevention of, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Red colors, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Reine des prés, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Reseda, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a></li> -<li class="isub1">essence of, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a></li> -<li class="isub1">extract of, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a></li> -<li class="isub1">odorata, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Resina Opopanax, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Resinification, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rhatany, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rhodium, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rhusma, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ribbons, fumigating, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ribes niger, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Robinia pseudoacacia, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Romarin, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rondeletia odoratissima perfume, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rosa, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a></li> -<li class="isub1">centifolia perfume, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rose, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a></li> -<li class="isub1">essence or extract of, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a></li> -<li class="isub1">milk, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> -<li class="isub1">mousseuse perfume, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a></li> -<li class="isub1">odors, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sachet powder, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a></li> -<li class="isub1">théa perfume, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tooth powder, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a></li> -<li class="isub1">water, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rosebud cold-cream, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rosemary, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Roses blanches perfume, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a></li> -<li class="isub1">jaunes perfume, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a></li> -<li class="isub1">jumelles perfume, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rosmarinus officinalis, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rouge alloxane, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a></li> -<li class="isub1">en feuilles, <a href='#Page_272'>272</a></li> -<li class="isub1">en pâte, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a></li> -<li class="isub1">en tasses, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a></li> -<li class="isub1">végétal rose liquide, <a href='#Page_272'>272</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rouges, <a href='#Page_272'>272</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Royal Horse-Guard’s bouquet, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> -<li class="isub1">nosegay, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rue, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ruta graveolens, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Sachets, formulas for, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Saffron, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Safrol, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sage, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Salicylated tooth tincture, <a href='#Page_268'>268</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Salicylic acid, preservation of fats by, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Salt, inexhaustible, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a></li> -<li class="isub1">smelling, white, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Preston, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Salvia officinalis, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sambucus canadensis, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> -<li class="isub1">niger, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Santal, extract of, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sachet powder, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a></li> -<li class="isub1">wood, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Santalum album, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sassafras, S. officinalis, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sauge, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Savon dentifrice, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Savonettes camphoriques, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a></li> -<li class="isub1">d’amandes, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Scent bags, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Schnuda, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Schoenanthe, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Seiffert’s extraction apparatus, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sel blanc parfumé, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a></li> -<li class="isub1">inépuisable, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a></li> -<li class="isub1">volatil, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Semen Abelmoschi, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Anethi, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Anisi stellati, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Carvi, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Separating funnel, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Separators, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Seringat, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Skin, chapped, lotion for, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cosmetics and face lotions, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cosmetics, red, <a href='#Page_272'>272</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cosmetics, white, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a></li> -<li class="isub1">gloss, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Smelling salt, white, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sodii boras, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Soumboul, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spanish paste, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a></li> -<li class="isub1">skin, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spearmint, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spermaceti, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spiced vinegar, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spic-nard, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spike-lavender, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spikenard, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spiræa ulmaria, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sponges, bleaching of, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spring kisses, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a></li> -<li class="isub1">nosegay perfume, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Starch, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Star-anise, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Steam still, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Stick pomatum, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Stills, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a> et seq.</li> - -<li class="indx">Storax, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture of, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Styrax Benzoin, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Suave perfume, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Subnitrate of bismuth, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sugar tooth powder, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sulphide of potassium, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sumbul root, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sureau, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sweet almonds, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sweet-brier, extract of, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sweet-flag root, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sweet gum, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sweet-pea, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li> -<li class="isub1">essence of, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a></li> -<li class="isub1">extract of, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Syringa, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfume, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vulgaris, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_312">312</span></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Table showing the approximate density, boiling and congealing points of essential oils, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tables, percentage, of alcohol, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tannin hair dye, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tanno-quinine hair restorer, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tea-rose, extract of, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfume, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Teint de Venus, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Teinture chinoise, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a></li> -<li class="isub1">orientale, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Terpineol, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Thyme, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Thymus Serpyllum, T. vulgaris, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tin, oxide of, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tincture, definition of, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Toilet powder, pink, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a></li> -<li class="isub1">powder, white, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a></li> -<li class="isub1">powders, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a></li> -<li class="isub1">utensils, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vinegar, Mallard’s, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vinegars, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tolu balsam, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture of, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Toluifera Balsamum, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Pereiræ, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tonka beans, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cream, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oil, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture of, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tooth pastes, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a></li> -<li class="isub1">powders, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a></li> -<li class="isub1">soap, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tinctures, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Transparent pomade, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tuberose, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a></li> -<li class="isub1">emulsion, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> -<li class="isub1">extract of, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tulipe odoriférante perfume, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tumeric, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Twin-rose perfume, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Twin-roses, extract of, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Unona odoratissima, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Utensils used in the toilet, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Vanilla, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a></li> -<li class="isub1">aromatica, V. planifolia, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a></li> -<li class="isub1">camphor, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cream, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oil, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture of, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vanillin, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vaselin, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vegetable aromatic substances, chemical constitution of, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a></li> -<li class="isub1">kingdom, odors from, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a></li> -<li class="isub1">milk, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Venetian chalk, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Verbena, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a></li> -<li class="isub1">extract of, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Verbena perfume, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sachet powder, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a></li> -<li class="isub1">triphylla, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Verveine, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vetiver, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a></li> -<li class="isub1">essence of, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sachet powder, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vinaigre à la rose, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a></li> -<li class="isub1">aux épices, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a></li> -<li class="isub1">aux fleurs d’oranges, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a></li> -<li class="isub1">aux violettes, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de cologne, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de lavande, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de quatre voleurs, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a></li> -<li class="isub1">étheré, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a></li> -<li class="isub1">hygiénique, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a></li> -<li class="isub1">polyanthe, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vinaigres encensoires, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vinegar, aromatic, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Mallard’s toilet, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a></li> -<li class="isub1">orange-flower, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a></li> -<li class="isub1">preventive, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a></li> -<li class="isub1">spiced, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a></li> -<li class="isub1">toilet, French, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vinegars, toilet, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Viola odorata, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Violet, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cold-cream, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a></li> -<li class="isub1">color, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> -<li class="isub1">emulsion, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> -<li class="isub1">extract of, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfume, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sachet powder, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Violettes des montagnes, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Violettes (perfume), <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Virginal milk, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vohl’s extraction apparatus, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Volcameria, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> -<li class="isub1">extract of, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a></li> -<li class="isub1">inermis, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfume, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Wallflower, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> -<li class="isub1">extract of, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfume, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Waters, aromatic, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Wax, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomades, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a></li> - -<li class="indx">West End perfume, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Whisker dye, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a></li> - -<li class="indx">White, French, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pearl, dry, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a></li> -<li class="isub1">rose, extract of, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a></li> -<li class="isub1">rose perfume, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Wintergreen, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> -<li class="isub1">extract of, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfume, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Yacht club perfume, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Yellow colors, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Yield of essential oils, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ylang-ylang, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfume, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a></li> -</ul> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="transnote"> -<h3>Transcriber's Notes</h3> - -<p>Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. Variations -in hyphenation have been standardised but all other spelling and -punctuation remains unchanged.</p> - -<p>The larger tables have been re-organised to fit more readily within -page constraints.</p> - - -</div> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Perfumes and their Preparation, by -George William Askinson - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION *** - -***** This file should be named 55735-h.htm or 55735-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/5/7/3/55735/ - -Produced by Chris Curnow, Les Galloway and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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