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diff --git a/old/55735-0.txt b/old/55735-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 0318a41..0000000 --- a/old/55735-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14315 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Perfumes and their Preparation, by -George William Askinson - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Perfumes and their Preparation - Containing complete directions for making handkerchief - perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils;... - -Author: George William Askinson - -Translator: Isidor Furst - -Release Date: October 12, 2017 [EBook #55735] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION *** - - - - -Produced by Chris Curnow, Les Galloway and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - PERFUMES - AND THEIR PREPARATION. - - CONTAINING - - COMPLETE DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING HANDKERCHIEF PERFUMES, - SMELLING-SALTS, SACHETS, FUMIGATING PASTILS; PREPARATIONS - FOR THE CARE OF THE SKIN, THE MOUTH, - THE HAIR; COSMETICS, HAIR DYES, AND - OTHER TOILET ARTICLES. - - WITH A - - DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF AROMATIC SUBSTANCES; THEIR - NATURE, TESTS OF PURITY, AND WHOLESALE - MANUFACTURE. - - BY - GEORGE WILLIAM ASKINSON, DR. CHEM., - - MANUFACTURER OF PERFUMERY. - - TRANSLATED FROM THE THIRD GERMAN EDITION BY - ISIDOR FURST. - - (WITH CORRECTIONS AND ADDITIONS BY SEVERAL EXPERTS.) - - Illustrated with 32 Engravings. - - NEW YORK: - N. W. HENLEY & CO., - 150 NASSAU ST. - - LONDON: - E. & F. N. SPON, - 125, STRAND. - - 1892. - - - - - COPYRIGHTED, 1892, - BY - NORMAN W. HENLEY & CO. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -The great progress which the art of perfumery has made during recent -times is due to several causes, the chief one of which is fully -realized only by the manufacturer on a large scale, who stands, as -it were, behind the scenes and has access to facts and information -concerning the materials he uses, which are not so easily accessible -to the dilettante in perfumery, or remain altogether unknown to the -latter. This important factor is the advance in our knowledge of the -physical and chemical properties of the several substances used in -perfumery, whereby we can better discriminate between the genuine -and the spurious, the choicest and the inferior, thus insuring, at -the very start, a satisfactory result, instead of being compelled to -resort to wasteful experimentation and empiricism. A better knowledge -has also been gained of the sources of the commercial varieties of -many of the crude products, and a better insight into the conditions -affecting their qualities or properties. A more exhaustive study of -the proximate principles of many of the essential oils has thrown -an entirely new light upon this heretofore obscure class of bodies, -placing into our hands new products of definite chemical composition, -unvarying in physical properties, and many of them valuable additions -to the perfumer’s stock of ingredients. Synthetic chemistry has also -added to the list of materials required by the perfumer, and is surely -going to add many more to it hereafter. Though some of these, like -the new artificial musk, are not yet in a condition to enter into -serious competition with the natural products, yet it is merely a -question of time when the latter need no longer be depended upon. The -increasing demands for the staple articles used by the perfumer have -also caused a large increase in the cultivation of many important -plants in various parts of the world, and have led to the establishment -of new plantations, in some cases to such an extent that the commercial -relations have been entirely revolutionized, new territories producing -larger crops and a finer product than the old home of the plant. The -exploration of hitherto unknown or imperfectly known countries has -also largely added to the perfumer’s art, and is likely to continue to -do this for a long time to come, since it is now well known that vast -districts, more particularly in tropical Africa, are inhabited by a -flora abounding in new odoriferous plants. - -In spite of all this expansion of the perfumer’s stock of trade, -however, which results in the periodical introduction of new compounds, -there is a very large number of popular odorous mixtures which remain -in steady demand, having taken such firm root among civilized nations -that they are not likely to be displaced. It is more particularly with -a view to afford information regarding these latter that a work like -the present is desirable and necessary. A treatise on perfumery is -expected to place into the hands of the purchaser reasonably reliable -processes for preparing the most generally approved simple or compound -perfumes, as well as accurate information concerning the origin and -properties of the various ingredients, together with practical hints -regarding the determination of their genuineness and purity. - -It is a frequent complaint of those who make preparations after -formulas published in works like the present, that they do not -succeed in obtaining fully satisfactory products. Another complaint -of purchasers of such works is this: that they fail to find formulas -yielding preparations identical in every respect with certain -celebrated perfumes which have made the reputation and fortune of -certain firms. Regarding the first complaint, we would say that -the failure lies generally with the complainant himself, through -carelessness in the selection of the materials or disregard of -the given directions. Concerning the second complaint, a moment’s -reflection must convince any one that formulas which are the result -of the study and experimentation of years, and the products of which -are the main stock of trade of certain firms, are carefully guarded, -and not likely to be communicated to others. Moreover, in many cases -even a publication of the component parts would not be of much avail, -for the manufacturer on the large scale has facilities for blending -and seasoning his products which the maker on a small scale does not -possess, and it is this part of the art particularly upon which the -quality of the products depends. - -In preparing the present treatise for the American public many changes -were found necessary in the original text, in order to make the -information given more correct or definite, and so bring the work more -abreast of the present time. In addition to various improvements and -additions made in the working formulas comprising the second portion of -the work, the description of the natural products used as ingredients, -upon the quality and selection of which the success of the perfumer -mostly depends, has been carefully revised, and so far as the objects -of this work required, completed by Dr. Charles Rice, Associate Editor -of _American Druggist_, etc., in consultation with several experts in -the art of perfumery. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - CHAPTER I. PAGE - - The History of Perfumery 1 - - CHAPTER II. - - About Aromatic Substances in General 6 - - CHAPTER III. - - Odors from the Vegetable Kingdom 13 - - CHAPTER IV. - - The Aromatic Vegetable Substances Employed in Perfumery 20 - - CHAPTER V. - - The Animal Substances Used in Perfumery 57 - - CHAPTER VI. - - The Chemical Products Used in Perfumery 63 - - A. Chemicals Used for the Extraction of Aromatic Substances 64 - B. Chemical Products Used for the Preparation of Perfumes 68 - C. The Colors Used in Perfumery 87 - - CHAPTER VII. - - The Extraction of Odors 87 - - CHAPTER VIII. - - The Special Characteristics of Aromatic Substances 118 - - CHAPTER IX. - - The Adulteration of Essential Oils and their Recognition 139 - - CHAPTER X. - - The Essences or Extracts Employed in Perfumery 146 - - CHAPTER XI. - - Directions for Making the Most Important Essences and Extracts 150 - - CHAPTER XII. - - The Division of Perfumery 166 - - CHAPTER XIII. - - The Manufacture of Handkerchief Perfumes, Bouquets, or Aromatic - Waters 167 - - CHAPTER XIV. - - Formulas for Handkerchief Perfumes 169 - - CHAPTER XV. - - Ammoniacal and Acid Perfumes 199 - - CHAPTER XVI. - - Dry Perfumes 207 - - CHAPTER XVII. - - Formulas for Dry Perfumes (Sachets) 209 - - CHAPTER XVIII. - - The Perfumes Used for Fumigation 214 - - CHAPTER XIX. - - Hygienic and Cosmetic Perfumery 225 - - CHAPTER XX. - - Preparations for the Care of the Skin 227 - - CHAPTER XXI. - - Formulas for the Preparation of Emulsions, Meals, Pastes, - Vegetable Milk, and Cold-Creams 230 - - CHAPTER XXII. - - The Preparations Used for the Care of the Hair - (Pomades and Hair Oils) 245 - - CHAPTER XXIII. - - Formulas for the Manufacture of Pomades and Hair Oils 247 - - CHAPTER XXIV. - - Preparations for the Care of the Mouth 257 - - CHAPTER XXV. - - Cosmetic Perfumery 269 - - CHAPTER XXVI. - - Skin Cosmetics and Face Lotions 270 - - CHAPTER XXVII. - - Hair Cosmetics 280 - - CHAPTER XXVIII. - - Hair Dyes and Depilatories 285 - - CHAPTER XXIX. - - Wax Pomades, Bandolines, and Brillantines 294 - - CHAPTER XXX. - - The Colors Used in Perfumery 297 - - CHAPTER XXXI. - - The Utensils Used in the Toilet 301 - - - - - PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -THE HISTORY OF PERFUMERY. - - -The gratification of his senses is peculiar to man, and it is to this -trait that we are indebted for all the arts. The activities which -aimed at the gratification of the eye and ear developed into the -creative arts and music, and in like manner human endeavor directed -toward the stimulation of the sense of smell has in our time assumed -the proportions both of an art and a science; for it was nothing but -the advancement of chemistry that made it possible to fix all the -pleasant odors offered by nature and to create new perfumes by the -artistic combination of these scents. The preparation of perfumes is a -very ancient art that is met with among all peoples possessed of any -degree of civilization. It is particularly the ancient nations of the -Orient which had in truth become masters in the manufacture of numerous -perfumes. - -The first perfume was the fragrant flower; it has continued to be so -to the present day: the sprig of dried lavender flowers which we lay -in the clothes-press was probably used for the same purpose by the -contemporaries of Aristotle. In the Orient, which we may look upon as -the cradle of the art of perfumery, the idea suggested itself early to -substitute for the delicious fragrance of the flowers some substances -of lasting odor; various sweet-scented resins supplied the material -for this purpose. The use of these aromatic resins must have been -very extensive: the ancient Egyptians alone consumed extraordinary -quantities for embalming their dead. How highly the Oriental peoples -in general prized perfumes can be learned from the Bible: the Jews -(like the Catholics to the present day) employed an aromatic gum-resin -(olibanum, frankincense) in their religious ceremonies; in the Song of -Solomon mention is made of Indian perfumes, for instance, cinnamon, -spikenard, myrrh, and aloes. - -Altogether, incense played a prominent part in the religious ceremonies -of the ancient Western Asiatic nations—among many peoples under a -theocratic government it was even believed to be sinful to use incense -for other than religious purposes. The Bible teaches us that Ezekiel -and Isaiah protested against it, and that Moses even prescribed the -preparation of certain kinds of incense for use in the tabernacle. - -Among the most highly civilized people of antiquity, the Greeks, a -large number of fragrant substances, as well as oils perfumed with -them—that is to say, perfumes in the same sense as we still understand -the term—was known; this will be no surprise to those familiar with the -culture of this remarkable people. The odor of violets was the favorite -among the Greeks; besides this they used the scent of the different -mints, thyme, marjoram, and other aromatic plants. This was carried -so far as to become a matter of fashion for the Greek fop to use only -certain odors in the form of ointments for the hair, others for the -neck, etc. In order to prevent this luxury which was carried to such -an excess, Solon even promulgated a law that interdicted the sale of -fragrant oils to Athenian men (the law did not apply to the women). - -The Romans, who were the pupils of the Greeks in all the arts, carried -the luxury with perfumes perhaps even farther. In ancient Rome there -was a very numerous guild of perfumers called _unguentarii_; they -are said to have had a street to themselves in Capua. A Patrician -Roman anointed himself three times daily with precious, sweet-scented -oils which he personally took along into his bath in golden vessels -of exquisite workmanship, so-called nartheciæ. At the funeral of -his wife Poppæa, Nero is said to have used as incense more odorous -substances than could be produced in one year in Arabia, at that time -the only reputed source of perfumes. This luxury went so far that -during the games in the open amphitheatres the whole air was filled -with sweet odors ascending from numerous censers arranged in a circle. -The apartments of well-to-do Romans always contained large and very -valuable urns filled with dried blossoms, to keep the air permanently -perfumed. - -Roman extravagance with perfumes was carried to such an excess that -under the consulate of Licinius Crassus a law was passed which -restricted the use of perfumery, there being good reason to fear that -there would not be enough for the ceremonies in the temples. - -With the migration of the almost savage Huns and Goths, the refinement -of morals ceased, progress in civilization was retarded for centuries, -and at the same time the use of perfumes disappeared entirely in -Europe; but it was otherwise in the Orient. As an instance we may -mention the prophecy of Mohammed, who promised in the Koran to the -faithful in paradise the possession of black-eyed houries whose bodies -were composed of the purest musk. - -The Arabs, the ancient masters of chemistry, were also the first -founders of the art of perfumery. Thus the Arabian physician Avicenna, -in the tenth century, taught the art of preparing fragrant waters from -leaves, and Sultan Saladin, in 1157, on his triumphal entry, had the -walls of the mosque of Omar washed with rose water. - -It was the intercourse with the Orient brought about by the Crusades -that made Europeans again more familiar with the art of perfumery, and -a number of new odors rapidly became known. Italy and France, in those -times the representatives of culture, were the countries in which the -preparation of perfumes was carried on on a large scale. Thus, for -instance, we find the name of a Roman family preserved to the present -day because one of its members had combined a sweet-scented powder, -called Frangipanni after its inventor, which is still in favor, and -because his grandson Mauritius Frangipanni had made the important -discovery that by treating this powder with spirit of wine the fragrant -substance could be obtained in a fluid form. - -The fact has been frequently related and repeated, that Catherine de -Medici, the wife of Henry II., had made use of the fashion of perfuming -the body for the purpose of ridding herself of objectionable persons, -by giving them scented gloves prepared and at the same time poisoned by -a Florentine named René (Renato?). We think this tale to be simply a -hair-raising fable—modern chemistry knows no substance the mere touch -of which could produce the effect of a fatal poison; and it is scarcely -credible that such a material had been known at that time and lost -sight of since. - -In the sixteenth century, especially at the court of Queen Elizabeth, -perfumes were used with great extravagance; in fact, were looked upon -as one of the necessaries of life. This luxury was carried still -farther at the courts of the sumptuous kings of France; Louis XV. went -so far as to demand every day a different odor for his apartments. A -lady’s lover always used the same kind of perfume she did. - -It is well known that among the Oriental nations perfumes are used so -largely that even food is flavored with rose water, musk, etc.; and -Indian and Chinese goods always possess a peculiar aroma which is so -characteristic for certain products that it was considered to be a sign -of genuineness; this was the case, for instance, with the patchouly -odor which always adheres to Indian shawls. - -A shawl-maker of Lyons, who had succeeded in perfectly imitating Indian -shawls with reference to design and colors, spent a fabulous sum to -obtain possession of the plant used by the Indian weavers for perfuming -their wares. Despite the great outlay caused by the search for this -plant, the manufacturer is said to have done a flourishing business -with his “genuine” Indian shawls. - -In more recent times the great extension of trade to the farthest -countries of the globe, and still more the progress of chemistry, have -made us familiar with a number of new perfumes. More than two hundred -different aromatic substances are now known, and still they are far -from being exhausted; every year new odoriferous plants become known, -from which the chemist extracts perfumes. By this means, as well as by -the enormous employment of perfumes in all grades of society, the art -of their preparation has risen to a higher plane; out of empiricism, -which alone prevailed a few decades ago, into the domain of the -chemical sciences. - -Since the appearance of the last edition of this book, the art of -perfumery has made noteworthy progress both with reference to the -knowledge of new aromatic substances and to improvement in the -methods of their preparation; by the introduction of glycerin, solid -and liquid vaselin, and salicylic acid into perfumery, one of its -branches—hygienic cosmetics—has made an important advance. - -At present it is particularly France and England whose perfumery -industry is most extensive and which to some extent rule the markets of -the world; southern France and Algiers especially furnish the best raw -materials, the finest essential oils for the manufacture of perfumes at -the chief centres, Paris and London. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -ABOUT AROMATIC SUBSTANCES IN GENERAL. - - -We apply the term perfume—which really means a fumigating material—to -those substances which make an agreeable impression upon our sense of -smell; the French call them briefly _odeurs_, _i.e._, odors. The high -degree of development at present attained by this industry in France -and England is the cause of the fact that all perfumes are generally -sold under French or English names, which must be borne in mind by -manufacturers in this country. - -Perfumes or scents, however, exert not only an agreeable impression -on the olfactory organ, but their effect extends to the entire -nervous system, which they stimulate; when used in excess, they are -apt to cause headache in sensitive persons; the laborers in the -chemical factories where these substances are produced on a large -scale, occasionally even suffer by reason of their stimulating action -on the nerves. For this reason perfumes should never be employed -otherwise than in a very dilute condition; this necessity arises from -a peculiarity of the odorous substances which when concentrated and -pure have by no means a pleasant smell and become fragrant only when -highly diluted. Oil of roses, of orange flowers, or of jasmine, in -fact nearly all aromatic substances, have an almost disagreeable odor -when concentrated; only in an extremely dilute state they yield those -delightful scents which we admire so much in the blossoms from which -they are derived. - -It will be easier to understand the almost incredible productiveness -of perfumes if we cite as an instance that a few centigrams of musk -placed on a sensitive scale can for years fill a large hall with their -characteristic odor without showing an appreciable loss of weight, and -still particles must separate from the musk and become evenly diffused -through the air of the hall because the odor is perceptible throughout -every part of it. - -It would be an error, however, were we to assume that all aromatic -substances possess the same degree of productiveness; some of them, as -for instance the odorous principle of orris root, have a comparatively -faint smell—a fact which must be borne in mind in the combination of -perfumes. Even odors having a very similar effect on the olfactory -nerves differ widely in their intensity; for instance, true oil (attar) -of roses possesses an intensity more than twice as great as that of the -rose geranium; many authorities agree in giving the proportion as three -to eight, the first figure being that of rose oil, the second that of -oil of rose geranium. Therefore, in order to produce perfumes of equal -intensity (having the same effect on the olfactory nerves), we must -dissolve in an equal quantity of the menstruum either three parts by -weight of the attar of roses or eight parts of the oil of rose geranium. - -In the prescriptions for the preparation of perfumes given in this -book, these proportions have been carefully weighed; but it will be the -office of the trained olfactory sense of the manufacturer to modify -them for the various kinds of perfumery in such a way as to produce a -truly harmonious pleasant odor. - -Although we know many aromatic substances, we are still in ignorance as -to the preparation of certain decidedly agreeable odors. Thus no one at -present is able to produce the refreshing odor of the sea borne along -on the wind, any more than we are able to reproduce the scent exhaled -by the forest, especially after a warm rain; chemistry, though it has -done much in the domain of perfumery, has thus far thrown no light -upon it. Even certain vegetable odors—for instance, the delightful -perfume exhaled by some Aroideæ and Primulaceæ—we cannot as yet -preserve unchanged in perfumery. This opens an illimitable field for -future activity to the progressive manufacturer. - -In a book devoted to the production of perfumes it would certainly -be in place to say something about the physiological relations of -the olfactory sensations; but unfortunately this interesting part -of physiology is still enveloped in great obscurity. All we know -positively on this subject is that many particles of the odorous bodies -evaporate and must come in contact with the olfactory nerves in order -to produce the sensation of odor. There is no lack of experiments -seeking to draw a parallel between sensations of smell and those of -hearing, and, as is well known, we speak of a harmony and dissonance -of odors as we do of tones. Piesse, the renowned perfumer, has even -made an attempt to arrange the different odors in a “harmonic scale” -having the compass of the piano, and to deduce therefrom a law for the -mixture of the several aromatic substances. This attempt, although very -ingenious, still lacks a scientific foundation. Piesse endeavors to -combine the several scents like tones to produce chords in different -scales; the chords of odors are to agree with those of tones. Thus far, -however, no proof has been furnished that the olfactory nerve and the -acoustic nerve have the same organization, and under this supposition -alone could Piesse’s system be accepted as correct. - - -THE DIVISION OF AROMATIC SUBSTANCES ACCORDING TO THEIR ORIGIN. - -The majority of the substances used in perfumery are derived from -the vegetable kingdom, but some come from the animal kingdom, and -for others which do not occur complete in nature we are indebted to -chemistry. As is well known, most blossoms possess a decided odor, -which is extremely fragrant in some; yet it is not the blossoms -alone, but in different genera various parts are distinguished by -agreeable odors. In some plants the fragrant substances are contained -in every part, as in different pines and the mints; in others, only -in the fruits (nutmeg, vanilla), while the other parts are odorless; -in certain plants only the rinds of the fruits contain an aromatic -substance (oranges, lemons). In the Florentine Iris the entire plant is -odorless—only its root stock possesses an agreeable, violet-like scent; -while, for instance, in the camphor-tree an aromatic substance exists -in the wood, in the cinnamon laurel in the bark, in the clove-tree -mainly in the closed buds. - -But taking the aromatic plants all together, we find that it is -particularly their flowers which contain the finest odors, and that the -majority of perfumes are prepared from their blossoms. - -From the animal kingdom we take for the purposes of perfumery only a -very small number of substances, among which, moreover, some peculiar -relation exists; while, for instance, all men would call the odor of -violets, roses, vanilla, etc., agreeable, the odor of some animal -substances is decidedly obnoxious to many persons, though others like -it—an observation which can be verified often with reference to musk. - -With the advancement of science, chemical products find application -in ever increasing numbers; among them are substances which owe their -origin directly to the vegetable kingdom, while others, such as -nitrobenzol and pine-apple ether, are only indirectly derived from it. - -From what has been stated, we learn that our attention must be directed -particularly to those scents which are derived from the vegetable -kingdom. To the manufacturer of perfumery, however, it is a matter -of importance whence the plants are obtained which he uses for the -preparation of the odors; a very slight change in the soil often -makes a great difference in the quality of one and the same species; -we see this quite clearly in our ordinary strawberry. While the wild -fruit is but small in size it has a delightful aromatic flavor, and -the same species transplanted into gardens attains much greater size -but possesses only a faint aroma not to be compared with that of the -wild variety. The Lombardian violet is large and beautiful, but the -German has a much more pleasant odor. On the other hand, the blossoms -of the orange-tree obtained from the plants cultivated in pots cannot -be compared with reference to their odor with these growing in the -Riviera, the strip of coast land of the Mediterranean from Marseilles -to Genoa. Altogether the last-named region and the south of France -may be called the true garden of the perfumer; in the neighborhood of -Grasse, Cannes, Nice, Monaco, and some other towns, extensive plots -of ground are set with aromatic plants such as orange-trees, Acacia -farnesiana, jasmine, violets, etc., whose products are elaborated -in large, well-appointed chemical factories solely devoted to the -extraction of their odors. The proximity of the sea-coast, with its -favorable climate almost free from frost, permits the cultivation of -southern plants, while in the more elevated parts of the country the -adjoining Maritime Alps cause a more changeable climate which adapts -them to certain other sweet-scented plants. - -The great value of the annual production of the French flower farms at -Cannes, Grasse, and Nice will be evident from the following figures. -The harvesting and elaboration of the flowers at the points named -give employment to fifteen thousand persons, and the average annual -production is: - -Orange flowers, 2,000,000 kgm., valued at 2,000,000 francs. -Roses, 500,000 " " 500,000 " -Jasmine, 80,000 " " 200,000 " -Violets, 80,000 " " 400,000 " -Acacia flowers, 40,000 " " 160,000 " -Tuberoses, 20,000 " " 80,000 " - ———-———- ———-———- - 2,720,000 kgm., valued at 3,340,000 francs. - -From these flowers were manufactured: 500,000 kgm. of pomades and -essences, 1,000,000 litres of orange-flower water, 100,000 litres of -rose water, and 1,200 kgm. of oil of roses. - -Besides, in more northern countries we find here and there quite -an extensive cultivation of aromatic plants; this is the case, for -instance, in England, where lavender, crisp mint, and peppermint are -planted on a large scale solely for their perfume. In northern Germany, -too, we sometimes find caraway and sweet flag cultivated, for their -peculiar odors only, in special fields. - -As stated above, the place of growth of a plant exerts a powerful -influence on the quality of the odors developed in it; this -circumstance may be the reason why certain scents are prized most -highly when they are derived from some definite regions, because -the buyer is sure that the product from such places is of superior -excellence. - -Thus we find that English oils of lavender and peppermint are valued -more highly and bring better prices than those from other points of -production; some places even have, as it were, acquired a monopoly of -certain odors. While the factories at Cannes produce the most perfect -odors of roses, orange flowers, jasmine, and cassie, those at Nice -are famous for the finest odors of violet, reseda (mignonette), and -tuberose, and those of Italy for the odors of bergamot and orris root. - -Unfortunately there are in the United States no extensive places of -cultivation for odoriferous plants, although certain localities are -very well adapted to the growth of violets, mignonette, roses, syringa, -lavender, etc. Peppermint, however, is grown on a large scale in some -parts of New York State and in Michigan. Of course such an enterprise, -in order to be profitable, requires the intelligent co-operation -of planters and duly qualified chemists, besides well-furnished -laboratories and a considerable amount of capital; but under these -conditions the prospects of gain are good. - -At present the manufacturers of perfumery are almost entirely dependent -upon English and French factories for their supply of odors. Owing to -the absence of competition, the prices for the products, excellent -though they are, are high, and become still more so when the crops -are short. These conditions would be materially altered under active -competition. - -As indicated above, the odors used in perfumery may be divided into -three distinct groups according to their origin. These groups are: - -1. Odors of vegetable origin. - -2. Odors of animal origin. - -3. Odors of artificial origin—chemical products. - -Before describing the preparation of true perfumes, it is necessary -to become acquainted with the several raw materials required in their -manufacture; that is to say, the simple odorous substances, their -origin, their preparation, and their peculiar qualities. Besides these -odorous raw materials, the art of perfumery makes use of a number of -chemical and mineral products, whose quality largely influences that -of the perfume to be made. These, therefore, likewise call for an -appropriate description. Among these auxiliary substances are alcohol, -glycerin, fixed oils, and solid fats, which play an important part -not only in the preparation of the perfumes, but also enter into the -composition of many. The liquid handkerchief perfumes always contain -a large quantity of alcohol, the scented hair oils consist largely -of fixed oils, while solid fats of animal or vegetable origin occur -in the so-called pomades. As we shall see, the actual odors, owing -to their extraordinary productiveness, constitute generally only a -small percentage of the perfumes; the greatest bulk is usually either -alcohol, fixed oil, or solid fat. - -Hence, as the last-named substances, aside from the odoriferous -materials, form the foundation of all articles of perfumery, the -manufacturer must devote particular attention to their purity, and -their qualities must be discussed in detail. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -ODORS FROM THE VEGETABLE KINGDOM. - - -The odors occurring in plants have their seat mostly in peculiar -receptacles called oil glands in which the aromatic substances are -stored and seem to take no further part in the vital processes of the -plant. As has been intimated, the parts of the plant in which the -aromatic substances are stored differ greatly; but in general it may be -said that in most cases the flowers and fruits contain the odors; more -rarely they may be found in the roots, in the bark, or in the wood, -and in very few instances equally distributed throughout the whole -plant. In some cases, however, we can obtain totally different odors -from various parts of the same plant; this applies, for instance, to -the orange-tree, whose blossoms furnish a different odor from the ripe -fruits, and the latter must be distinguished from that obtainable from -the leaves. The odorous substances occurring in the vegetable kingdom -are either mobile liquids (essential oils), or they have a thicker -consistence ranging from that of cream to that of soft cheese (balsams -or gum-resins), or they are solid (resins). Aside from the fact that -the term “essential oils” is quite incorrect, since the substances -called by that name have nothing in common with oils except perhaps -the liquid state, we are forced from a chemical standpoint to include -among them even solid substances; the well-known camphor, a firm and -waxy-looking body, belongs according to all its chemical properties -into the same group as the so-called essential oils. The name -“essential (or volatile) oils” is due to the fact that the volatile -vegetable aromatic substances cause a stain on paper similar to that -produced by oils and fats; but the stain made by the former disappears -spontaneously after some time, while that due to true oils and fats -persists. The disappearance of the stain depends on the evaporation -of the vegetable aromatic substances—a quality not possessed by fats. -Hence the volatile vegetable aromatic substances, in contradistinction -from non-volatile fixed or fatty oils, have been designated as -essential or volatile or ethereal oils. Inasmuch as the latter terms -are the ordinary trade names for these substances, we are compelled to -retain them despite their incorrectness. The French name for essential -oils is _essences_; “essence de lavande,” for instance, is the French -name for essential oil of lavender, and not for an alcoholic solution -of the oil, as might be inferred from the usually accepted meaning of -the English terms “essence of lavender,” “essence of peppermint,” etc., -which mean solutions of these essential oils in alcohol. - -As the localities where the raw materials—that is, the aromatic -plants—are cultivated on a large scale naturally constitute the places -of manufacture of essential oils, we find in southern France and -in England the most extensive factories devoted exclusively to the -preparation of perfumes. In the countries named, a favorable influence -is exerted, too, by their situation near the sea, as well as by their -trade with tropical lands from which additional aromatic plants are -imported. - -We have stated above that the manufacture of essential oils forms -almost a monopoly in France and England; but there is no doubt that -this country (the United States) likewise possesses many localities -favorable to the cultivation of certain aromatic plants and the -preparation of essential oils from them, so that this branch of -industry could be carried on at a profit. For this reason we have in -our descriptions devoted some attention to the conditions of growth -required by such plants as might be raised here. We even find that some -advantages are derived from the hot-house cultivation of some tropical -plants. - -An exact knowledge of the chemical properties of a substance is in all -cases the first and fundamental condition for its preparation; it would -appear necessary, therefore, that we should endeavor to gain complete -information about the nature of vegetable aromatic substances before we -enter upon the description of the various methods of their preparation. - - -THE CHEMICAL CONSTITUTION OF VEGETABLE AROMATIC SUBSTANCES. - -The sources of the odors derived from the vegetable kingdom can be -divided, as stated above, into so-called essential oils, balsams, -gum-resins or soft resins, and hard resins. Since the latter bear a -certain relation to the essential oils from which they are formed -through chemical combinations, we must consider them first. - -The flowers, the fruits and their rinds, or even the wood of some -plants form the receptacles of essential oils; if they are liquid they -are called essential oils _par excellence_; if they are firm they -are called camphors. Besides, there are intermediate states between -them: oil of rose is always viscid and solidifies even at temperatures -considerably above the freezing-point of water (see under Oil of Rose). - -The bodies which are generally called essential oils are usually -mixtures of a hydrocarbon with an oxygenated body, or an unchanged oil -with another which has become altered by the influence of the oxygen of -the air—a condition to which we shall recur later on. With reference -to their elementary composition, essential oils may be divided into two -groups: - -1. Non-oxygenated essential oils. - -2. Oxygenated essential oils. - -The non-oxgenated essential oils consist only of two elements—carbon -and hydrogen; the other group, as the name indicates, contains a third -element in chemical combination, and consist of carbon, hydrogen, and -oxygen. Most of the essential oils of the first group have the same -chemical composition: C_{10}H_{16} (10 atoms of carbon combined with -16 atoms of hydrogen). Despite the like chemical composition, all the -essential oils display different physical qualities; they vary in -density, in refractive power, in boiling-point (often by many degrees), -and, a matter of the greatest importance for our purposes, in their -odor. We may state at once that but few essential oils can be said -to have a pleasant odor; that of most of them is even disagreeable -and narcotic to the olfactory nerves; it is only after the oil has -been extremely diluted that the odor begins to become pleasant and to -resemble that of the plant from which the oil was derived. - -According to their physical qualities, essential oils may be described -as fluids of a specific narcotic odor, colorless but very refractive, -and easily inflammable. Only a few essential oils can be produced -in such a state of purity as to appear perfectly colorless; usually -they are more or less dark yellow in color, and some even possess a -characteristic tint; thus oil of acacia is reddish-brown, oils of -rose and absinth are green, oil of chamomile is blue. But a simple -experiment will show that the color is not inseparably connected with -the oil, for certain tinted oils can be obtained perfectly colorless -by being distilled with another, less volatile oil which retains the -coloring matter. - -The boiling-point of essential oils is in general very high —between -160° and 288° of the centigrade thermometer (C.), or 320° to 550° -F. The fact that we smell the essential oils in aromatic plants so -distinctly despite their high boiling-point is an evidence of their -exceedingly strong influence on the olfactory nerves. - -A peculiar property of essential oils, which is of great importance -in their preparation, is that of distilling over in large quantities -with steam—both ordinary and superheated—that is, at temperatures -at most only slightly exceeding 100° C. or 212° F. For this reason -essential oils are usually obtained in this way, since they are but -slightly soluble in water. Still, most of the oils dissolve in water in -sufficient amount to impart to it their characteristic odor and thus -to render it often very fragrant. Aqua Naphæ triplex (orange-flower -water), rose water, etc., are such as have been distilled over with the -essential oils, contain a small quantity of the latter in solution, and -hence have a very agreeable odor. - -All essential oils dissolve readily in strong alcohol, petroleum ether, -benzol, bisulphide of carbon, in liquid and solid fats, in glycerin, -etc.; we shall again recur to this important subject under the head of -the preparation of the essential oils. - -If a freshly prepared essential oil is at once excluded from the air -by being placed in hermetically sealed vessels which it completely -fills, and is kept from the light, the oil will remain unchanged for -any length of time. But if an essential oil is exposed to the air, a -peculiar, chemical alteration begins, which proceeds more rapidly and -obviously if direct light acts upon the oil at the same time. The odor -becomes less intense, the oil grows darker in color and more viscous, -and also acquires a peculiar quality: it has a strong bleaching -effect which is easily seen on the cork closing the bottle, which is -beautifully bleached. After a certain time the oil changes to a viscid, -less odorous mass, into balsam, and the latter, after the prolonged -influence of the air, finally changes into a brownish, odorless -substance, into resin. - -These remarkable physical and chemical alterations depend on the fact -that the essential oil absorbs oxygen from the air, which it puts into -a peculiar condition in which it exerts increased chemical activity -and is termed ozonized oxygen. One of the most marked of these effects -is the uncommonly strong bleaching power of ozonized or active oxygen. -When an essential oil that has altered so far as to contain ozonized -oxygen—which is shown by its bleaching vegetable coloring matters such -as the juice of cherries, red beets, tincture of litmus, etc., agitated -with it—is cooled, we notice the separation from it of a usually -crystalline, colorless, and odorless body called stearopten, while the -remaining liquid part is called elæopten. Stearopten always contains -oxygen, while elæopten still consists only of carbon and hydrogen. - -In the formation of the stearopten we distinctly see the beginning -process of resinification, which, therefore, is nothing but an -oxidation (combination of the essential oil with oxygen). It should, -however, be stated that as to many essential oils this is not proven -by actual observation. Many of them are not known to us as naturally -existing without any stearopten. Balsams are essential oils which -have to a great extent changed into resin, which they contain in -solution, and thereby have become more or less viscid. If the process -of oxidation goes still farther, eventually the greater portion of the -essential oil becomes oxidized, the entire mass grows firm, and then -possesses only a very faint odor which is due to the last remnants of -the unchanged essential oil. - -Since aromatic substances during evaporation become mixed with air, it -appears probable that they act upon the olfactory nerves only at the -moment when they become oxidized. - -The entire process of resinification of oil of turpentine can be -followed very clearly on the pitch pine (Pinus austriaca, or other -species of Pinus), just as oil of turpentine in general can be taken -as an example of an essential oil on which the peculiarities of the -non-oxygenated essential oils may be easily studied. In many localities -the pitch pine is partly deprived of its bark when it has reached a -certain age. From the trunk exudes oil of turpentine which in the air -becomes more and more viscid by the absorption of oxygen and changes -into balsam, called turpentine. The latter is collected and distilled -with water, when the unchanged oil of turpentine passes over with the -steam, while the odorless resin (rosin or colophony) remains behind in -the stills. - -The above-mentioned qualities of the essential oils indicate naturally -how those used in perfumery, which are often very costly, are to be -preserved. For this purpose small strong bottles should be chosen which -are closed with well-fitting glass stoppers, over which is applied a -glass capsule ground to fit tightly over the neck of the bottle. _These -bottles should always be completely filled_ (hence small bottles should -be selected), _and kept tightly closed, in the dark_. As the action of -oxygen is retarded by low temperatures, it is advisable to keep bottles -containing essential oils in a cool cellar. But care must be had never -to pour out an essential oil in the cellar near an open candle light. -The vapors are very apt to take fire, as they are quite inflammable. - -As there are a great many aromatic vegetable substances, so there -are numerous odors, or, to retain the customary though incorrect -appellation, numerous essential oils. All of these, however, cannot be -used in the art of perfumery, as some of them do not possess a pleasant -odor, as is the case, for instance, with oil of turpentine. (We may -state here, however, that very pure oil of turpentine, distilled from -certain Coniferæ, has an agreeable, refreshing odor which at present -has found application in perfumery under the title of forest perfume -or pine-needle essence.) Besides, there are numerous essential oils -which, while possessing a very pleasant odor, still cannot be used in -perfumery except for very cheap preparations, though they are employed -in much larger quantities in the manufacture of liqueurs. Such oils -are: oil of cumin, fennel, juniper, absinth, etc. - -As we shall return to this subject in connection with the essential -oils which are used in perfumery in general, we will now consider at -greater length the aromatic vegetable substances which are employed for -the manufacture of fragrant odors. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -THE AROMATIC VEGETABLE SUBSTANCES EMPLOYED IN PERFUMERY. - - -Every fragrant portion of a plant can be used for the preparation of -an aromatic substance, and therefore for the manufacture of a perfume. -Hence we are unable, in the following enumeration of the aromatic -vegetable substances, to make any claim to absolute completeness; for -every new scientific expedition may acquaint us with hitherto unknown -plants from which the finest odors may be obtained. We have said above -that we have not yet even fixed in our perfumes all the odors of the -known aromatic plants, and therefore there is still a large field open -to the progressive manufacturer. - -In the following pages we must restrict ourselves to the description of -those aromatic vegetable substances which are used in the laboratories -of the most advanced and scientific perfumers for the manufacture of -odors. At the same time we lay particular stress on the fact that the -knowledge of these raw materials is a matter of the greatest importance -to the manufacturer of perfumes because it enables him to appreciate -the differences, often very minute, between fine and inferior -qualities. Every manufacturer who aims at the production of fine goods -must make it the rule to use nothing but the best raw materials. - -The price of the latter is apparently disproportionately high; for -all that, only the most expensive materials should be bought, for it -is the only kind that can be used. Let us give but two instances in -illustration. We find in the market, grades of vanilla the prices of -which are as one to four; the latter is fresh and contains the aromatic -substance in large amount; the former is old, dry, and worthless, with -an artificial glossy surface and little odor. The differences in the -price are still greater in an aromatic substance of animal origin, -musk, the cheapest grades of which are altogether artificial and -perfumed with a mere trace of genuine musk. - -Of course, the same remark applies to the raw materials of animal -origin and to the chemical products, all of which should be of the -greatest purity obtainable. - -The aromatic substances at present employed in perfumery for the -extraction of odors are the following. - - -ALLSPICE. - -_Latin_—Pimenta; _French_—Piment; _German_—Piment; Nelkenpfeffer. - -This spice consists of the fruit berries, at first green, later black, -of the Eugenia Pimenta, indigenous to Central America and the Antilles. -It is chiefly used in the manufacture of liqueurs, less in perfumery, -though it may be employed as an addition to certain strong odors, -particularly that of oil of bay; it serves very nicely for scenting -cheap soap. - - -ANISE. - -_Latin_—Pimpinella Anisum; _French_—Anis; _German_—Anis. - -This well-known plant, which is cultivated in many localities on a -large scale, belongs to the Order of Umbelliferæ. The seeds contain -about three per cent of a very aromatic essential oil which finds -application in the manufacture of soap and in cheap perfumery; it is -chiefly used as a flavoring for liqueurs. Good anise must have a light -green color, an agreeable sweetish odor, and a sharp taste. In order to -increase the weight, anise is occasionally moistened with water; such -seeds look swollen, are apt to become slimy, and then furnish a less -fragrant oil. Anise is not to be confounded with star-anise, which will -be mentioned hereafter. - - -BALM. - -_Latin_—Melissa officinalis; _French_—Melisse; _German_—Melissenkraut. - -Melissa officinalis, an herbaceous plant with large, beautiful flowers, -which grows wild in our woods, contains a very sweet-smelling oil in -small quantities. This can be extracted by distillation from the fresh -herb, and furnishes very fine perfumes. - -Oil of Melissa of the market is, however, usually an East Indian oil, -derived from Andropogon citratus. See under Citronella. - - -BAY (SWEET BAY). - -_Latin_—Laurus nobilis; _French_—Laurier; _German_—Lorbeerfrüchte. - -The fruits of the bay-tree contain much essential oil which is used -less in the manufacture of perfumery than for scenting soap. Venice is -the most important point of export. See the next article. - - -BAY (WEST INDIAN). - -_Latin_—Myrcia acris; _French_—(Huile de) Bay; _German_—Bay (-Oel). - -The essential oil obtained from the leaves of this tree, a native of -the West Indies, possesses a very aromatic, refreshing odor somewhat -resembling that of allspice. It is known in the market as bay oil or -oil of bay. During the last decade or so its use has largely extended, -and, while formerly almost unknown on the continent of Europe, has -become an important article for the perfumer. An alcoholic distillate, -prepared by distilling the fresh leaves with the crude spirit from -which rum is otherwise obtained, is known as bay-rum, and is used as a -pleasant and refreshing wash for the skin. Bay-rum may also be made by -dissolving the oil, together with certain other ingredients, in alcohol. - - -BENZOIN. - -_Latin_—Benzoinum; _French_—Benjoin; _German_—Benzoëharz. - -This gum-resin, which possesses a pleasant vanilla-like odor, comes -from a tree belonging to the Order of Styracaceæ, the Styrax Benzoin, -and probably another species of Styrax, indigenous to tropical Asia, -especially Siam and Sumatra. The collection of benzoin is very similar -to that of pine resin; the bark of the tree is cut open, the exuding -juice is allowed to harden on the trunk, and is thus brought into -commerce. Benzoin differs according to its origin, the age of the tree, -etc., and in commerce a number of sorts (Siam, Penang, Palembang, and -Sumatra) are distinguished. As a rule, benzoin comes in lumps ranging -in size to that of a child’s head. They are of a light gray color and -inclose white, almond-shaped pieces. The finest quality, known as Siam -benzoin after its source, usually is in small pieces (Siam benzoin -in tears) which are translucent, light yellow to brown externally, -but milky white on fracture, and have a strong vanilla odor. Less -fine but still very good is Siam benzoin in lumps, consisting of -large reddish-brown pieces inclosing white particles. All other kinds -mentioned above come from the island of Sumatra, in lumps the size of a -fist. What was formerly known as Calcutta benzoin formed large friable -pieces of a dirty reddish-gray color. Siam as well as Penang benzoin -often contains, besides benzoic acid, also cinnamic acid; it is not -known why it is not a regular constituent. The worst quality is sold -as “benzoin sorts,” consisting of brownish pieces without white spots; -they are often mixed with splinters of wood, bast fibres, and fragments -of leaves, and can be used only for cheap perfumes. - -Good benzoin, besides the qualities named, must have a sweetish and -burning sharp taste, it should be very friable, and when heated in a -porcelain capsule should emit vapors (benzoic acid) of an acrid taste -and a pronounced aromatic odor; it should dissolve completely in strong -alcohol. In perfumery, benzoin serves for the preparation of many -odors, washes, and the manufacture of benzoic acid. The latter will be -further discussed under the head of aromatic substances obtained by -means of chemistry. - - -BERGAMOT. - -_Latin_—Citrus Bergamia; _French_—Bergamote; _German_—Bergamottefrüchte. - -The bergamot is the fruit of a tree belonging to the Order of -Aurantiaceæ, which is cultivated in Calabria. The tree is unknown in -a wild state. The golden-yellow or greenish-yellow fruits, resembling -a lemon in shape, have a bitter and at the same time acid pulp; the -thin rind contains a very fragrant oil which is used largely in the -manufacture of fine perfumery and soaps, and is exported chiefly from -Messina and Palermo. - - -BITTER ALMONDS. - -_Latin_—Amygdala amara; _French_—Amandes amères; _German_—Bittere -Mandeln. - -The well-known fruits of the bitter almond-tree (Amygdalus communis, -var. amara). There are no definite botanical differences between the -sweet and the bitter almond-tree. The only distinct difference is the -character of the respective fruits. The aromatic substance obtained -from bitter almonds is not present fully formed in the fruits, but -results from the chemical transformation of the amygdalin they contain; -the latter body is absent in sweet almonds. - - -CAJUPUT LEAVES. - -_Latin_—Folia Cajuputi. - -The leaves of Melaleuca Cajuputi, a tree found in the Indian and Malay -Archipelago, which have an aromatic odor resembling that of cardamoms. -In the Orient the leaves are used as incense and for the extraction of -the oil they contain. - - -CAMPHOR WOOD. - -_Latin_—Lignum Camphoræ; _French_—Bois de camphre; _German_—Campherholz. - -The wood of the Camphor-tree, native of China and Japan, is exceedingly -rich in essential oil, the firm, white, and strong-scented camphor. -The latter is usually prepared from the wood at the home of the tree, -especially in Formosa and Japan, so that the wood hardly forms an -article of commerce and is here enumerated only for completeness’ sake. -In China and in Japan, however, it is largely used for the manufacture -of cloth-chests, trunks and wardrobes, as these are never invaded by -insects. - - -CARAWAY SEED. - -_Latin_—Semen Carvi; _French_—Carvi; _German_—Kümmelsamen. - -This plant, Carum Carvi, which is largely cultivated in Germany, -contains in its seeds from four to seven per cent of essential -oil which is extracted by distillation. Genuine caraway seed is -brownish-yellow, pointed at both ends, quite glabrous on examination -with a lens, and marked with five longitudinal ribs. Caraway is -occasionally confounded with cumin seed, from Cuminum Cyminum, which -is easily recognized with a lens: the seeds of the latter plant have -fourteen longitudinal ribs and are hairy. The use of caraway in -perfumery is limited to ordinary goods, but in the manufacture of -liqueurs it is largely employed. - - -CASCARILLA BARK. - -_Latin_—Cortex Cascarillæ; _French_—Cascarille; -_German_—Cascarillarinde. - -This is the bark of a West Indian tree, Croton Eluteria, belonging to -the Order of Euphorbiaceæ, native of the Bahamas. It occurs in commerce -in the shape of pieces the length and thickness of a finger; externally -it is white and fissured, internally of a brown color and resinous. -Good qualities should be free from dust and fractured pieces (sifted -cascarilla), of a warm aromatic taste, and a very agreeable odor which -becomes more marked on being heated. Another variety of cascarilla -derived from South Africa, Cascarilla gratissima, has very fragrant -leaves which can be used immediately as incense, just as cascarilla in -general is employed in perfumery chiefly for fumigating powders and -waters. - - -CASSIE. - -_Latin_—Acacia farnesiana; _French_—Cassie; _German_—Acacie. - -The flowers of Acacia farnesiana (Willd.), one of the true acacias, -native of the East Indies, which flourishes farther north than the -other varieties, cultivated largely in southern France for the -delightful odor which resembles that of violets but is more intense. -The flowers are collected and made to yield their odorous principle -by one of the methods to be described hereafter. The plant which is -generally but falsely called Acacia in this country, viz., Robinia -pseudoacacia, likewise bears very fragrant flowers which undoubtedly -can be made to yield a perfume by some one of the usual methods; but -so far we know of no perfume into which the odor of Robinia flowers -enters. Moreover, it is not alone the flowers of Acacia farnesiana -which may be utilized for the preparation of the cassie perfume; the -black currant, Ribes niger, contains in its flowers an odor closely -resembling the former; this is actually used in the preparation of an -oil sold under the name of “oil of cassie.” The latter plant flourishes -in our northern States and would answer as a substitute for Acacia -farnesiana, which cannot stand our northern winters. - - -CEDAR WOOD. - -_Latin_—Lignum Cedri; _French_—Bois de cèdre; _German_—Cedernholz. - -The wood met with in commerce is derived from the Virginian juniper -tree, Juniperus virginiana, which is used in large quantities for -inclosing lead pencils. The chips, the offal from this manufacture, -can be employed with advantage for the extraction of the essential oil -contained therein. Long uniform shavings of this wood are also used for -fumigation, and the sawdust for cheap sachet powders. Cedar wood is -reddish-brown, fragrant, very soft, and splits easily. In the perfumery -industry it usually passes under the name of the “cedar of Lebanon,” -although the wood from the last-mentioned tree (Cedrus libanotica) has -quite a different agreeable odor, is very firm, reddish-brown, and of a -very bitter taste—qualities by which it is readily distinguished from -the other. - - -CINNAMON. - -_Latin_—Cinnamomum; _French_—Canelle; _German_—Zimmtrinde. - -Cinnamon consists of the bark of the young twigs of the cinnamon-tree, -Cinnamomum zeylanicum, indigenous to Ceylon. Good cinnamon consists -of thin, tubular, rolled pieces of bark which are smooth, light brown -(darker on fracture), of a pronounced characteristic odor, and a -burning and at the same time sweet taste. The most valuable in commerce -is that from Ceylon; the thicker bark is less fine. - -Chinese cinnamon or cassia (French, Cassie; German, Zimmtcassia) -consists of the bark of the cassia-tree, an undetermined species of -Cinnamomum indigenous to Southern China; this is grayish-brown and -has the general properties of true cinnamon, but it as well as the -oil extracted from it has a less fine odor than cinnamon or oil of -cinnamon. A very fine kind of Cinnamon has for a number of years past -appeared on the market under the name of Saigon cinnamon. It is very -rich in oil, and is exported from Cochin-China. Besides the true oils -of cinnamon and cassia, other essential oils are met with in commerce -under the names of oil of cinnamon flowers and oil of cinnamon leaves, -but their odor is not so fine as that of the former. The so-called -cinnamon flowers are the unripe fruits of various cinnamon laurels, -collected after the fall of the blossoms. They form brownish cones the -length of the nail of the little finger, and furnish an essential oil -whose odor resembles that of cinnamon. - - -CITRON. - -_Latin_—Fructus Citri; _French_—Citron; _German_—Citronenfrüchte. - -The fruit of a tree, Citrus medica, indigenous to northern India, but -largely cultivated in the countries situated around the Mediterranean -and in other countries. It is cultivated both for the pleasant acid -juice of the fruit and for their fragrant rinds. Only the latter are of -value for our purposes. It occurs in European commerce under the name -of Citronat or citron peel. Good commercial citron peel should be in -quarters and as fresh as possible, which is shown by its softness, the -yellow color, and the strong odor. Old peel looks shrunken and brownish -and has but little pleasant odor. - - -CITRON FLOWERS. - -_Latin_—Flores Citri; _French_—Fleurs de citron; -_German_—Citronenblüthen. - -The flowers of the citron-tree (Citrus medica) are white, fragrant, -and contain a very aromatic essential oil; but as the oil is always -extracted from the fresh flowers, the latter do not form an article of -commerce. - - -CHERRYLAUREL LEAVES. - -_Latin_—Folia Laurocerasi; _French_—Laurier-cérise; -_German_—Kirschlorbeerblätter. - -The leaves of this tree (Prunus Laurocerasus), which is largely -cultivated for officinal purposes, furnish an odorous substance -completely identical with that contained in bitter almonds, or, rather, -formed in them under certain conditions. As the extraction of the -odorous substance from bitter almonds is much cheaper, cherry-laurel is -but rarely used. - - -CITRONELLA. - -_Latin_—Andropogon Nardus; _French_—Citronelle; _German_—Citronella. - -This grass, which, like the oil prepared from it, is called citronella, -is a native of northern India, and is largely cultivated in Ceylon, -where large quantities are worked for the oil; for this reason the -grass itself is seldom met with in commerce. Its odor is somewhat -similar to that of the Indian lemon grass, that of verbena, and that -of several other aromatic plants, in place of which citronella is -frequently employed. - -Much confusion exists in much of the current literature regarding the -source and synonymy of the Indian grass oils and allied products. The -following list contains the most important ones: - -1. _Andropogon citratus_ DC.—Lemon Grass. The oil is known as Lemon -Grass Oil, Indian Verbena Oil or Indian Melissa Oil, or simply Oil of -Verbena or Oil of Melissa. - -2. _Andropogon laniger_ Desf.—This is the Juncus odoratus or Herba -Schoenanthi of older pharmacy. No oil is prepared from this. - -3. _Andropogon muricatus_ Retz.—Cuscus or Vetiver. Source of Oil of -Vetiver. - -4. _Andropogon nardus_ L.—Citronella. Source of Oil of Citronella. - -5. _Andropogon Schoenanthus_ L.—Ginger Grass. The oil is known as -Oil of Ginger Grass, Oil of Geranium Grass, Oil of Indian Geranium -or simply Oil of Geranium, also Oil of Rose Geranium [“Rose” is here -a corruption of the Hindostanee name of the plant, viz., Rusa], Oil -of Rusa Grass, Oil of Rusa, Oil of Palmarosa.—The two terms “Oil of -Geranium” and “Oil of Rose Geranium” should be abandoned for this oil, -to avoid confusion with the “Oil of (Rose) Geranium” obtained from -Pelargonium. See under “Geranium.” - - -CLOVE. - -_Latin_—Caryophylli; _French_—Clous de girofle; _German_—Nelkengewürz. - -This well-known spice comes from a tree, Caryophyllus aromaticus, -native of the Moluccas, and largely cultivated at Zanzibar, Pemba, and -elsewhere. It consists of the closed buds. The main essential of good -quality is the greatest possible freshness, which may be recognized by -the cloves being full, heavy, reddish-brown, and of a fatty aspect, -and they must contain so much essential oil (about 18 per cent) -that when crushed between the fingers the latter should be stained -yellowish-brown. Before buying, this test should always be made, and -attention paid to the fact whether the whitish dust is present in the -wrinkles about the head. We have found in commerce cloves from which -the essential oil had been fraudulently extracted with alcohol and -hence were worthless; such cloves may be recognized by the faint odor -and taste, but especially by the absence of the whitish dust. - - -CUCUMBER. - -_Latin_—Cucumis sativus; _French_—Concombre; _German_—Gurke. - -The well-known fruits of this kitchen-garden plant, though not -strictly sweet-scented, possess a peculiar refreshing odor which has -found application in perfumery. Certain products belonging under this -head require the odor of cucumber, and therefore this plant is to be -included among the aromatic plants in a wider sense. - - -CULILABAN BARK. - -_Latin_—Cortex Culilavan; _French_—Ecorce culilaban; -_German_—Kulilabanrinde. - -The bark of Cinnamomum Culilavan Nees, a plant indigenous to the -Molucca islands, used to occur in commerce in the shape of long, flat -pieces of a yellowish-brown color, with an odor like a mixture of -cinnamon, sassafras, and clove oils. It is rarely met with now. - - -DILL. - -_Latin_—Semen Anethi; _French_—Aneth; _German_—Dillsamen. - -This plant, Anethum graveolens, which is indigenous to the -Mediterranean region and southern Russia, contains in all its parts, -particularly in the seeds, an oil of a peculiar odor, which is used -as a perfume for soap, also in cheap perfumery, and especially as a -flavoring for liqueurs. - - -ELDER FLOWERS. - -_Latin_—Flores Sambuci; _French_—Sureau; _German_—Hollunderblüthen. - -This bush, Sambucus niger, which grows wild in Europe, bears umbellar -flowers which are officinal, but contain besides a pleasant odor which -can be extracted from them. The odor of the flowers deteriorates on -drying, hence in perfumery only the fresh flowers should be used. The -American elder (Sambucus canadensis) could easily be used in place of -it. - - -FENNEL (SEED AND HERB). - -_Latin_—Fœniculum; _French_—Fenouil; _German_—Fenchel. - -This plant, Fœniculum vulgare, Order Umbelliferæ, is largely cultivated -in Europe. It contains an essential oil in all its parts, but -especially in the seeds. The plant is rarely used in perfumery, but -more frequently in the manufacture of liqueurs. The herb, dried and -comminuted, enters into the composition of some cheap sachets. - - -FRANGIPANNI (see Plumeria). - - -GERANIUM. - -_Latin_—Pelargonium roseum; _French_—Géranium; _German_—Geranium. - -This plant, originally indigenous in South Africa, contains in its -leaves an essential oil whose odor closely resembles that of roses. At -present it is cultivated on a large scale in many parts of France and -in Turkey, solely for the purposes of perfumery. This plant would grow -freely in our Southern and Middle States, and could be cultivated with -advantage for the extraction of its highly valued perfume. - -The terms “Oil of Geranium” and “Oil of Rose Geranium” ought to -be restricted in commerce to the oil obtained from true geranium -(Pelargonium). Unfortunately, they are yet very commonly applied to -an East Indian oil obtained from a species of Andropogon (see under -Citronella). - - -=Hedyosmum Flowers.= - -On the Antilles there are a number of bushes belonging to the Genus -Hedyosmum, Order Chloranthaceæ, whose flowers possess a magnificent, -truly intoxicating odor. Thus far these odors seem to have been -accessible only to English perfumers. The perfumes sold under this name -by Continental manufacturers are merely combinations of different odors. - - -HELIOTROPE. - -_Latin_—Heliotropium peruvianum; _French_—Héliotrope; -_German_—Heliotropenblüthen. - -The flowers of this plant, which flourishes well in all temperate or -tropic countries, possess a very pleasant odor, about the preparation -of which we shall have more to say hereafter. In Europe only French -perfumers have manufactured it; according to the author’s experiments, -however, its extraction presents no more difficulty than that of any -other plant. - -A synthetic, chemical product, known as piperonal, related to vanillin -and cumarin, possesses the odor of the heliotrope in a most remarkable -degree. It is therefore much used to imitate the latter. In commerce it -is known as heliotropin. - - -HONEYSUCKLE. - -_Latin_—Flores Loniceræ; _French_—Chèvre-feuille; _German_— -Geisblattblüthen. - -This well-known climbing plant, Lonicera Caprifolium, found in many of -our garden bowers, contains an exceedingly fragrant oil in its numerous -flowers, from which the author has prepared it. [Some of the American -species of honeysuckle would, no doubt, likewise yield an essential -oil.] The oil sold in commerce under this name is not obtained from -these flowers, but is an imitation of the odor conventionally accepted -for it. The true oil of honeysuckle, first prepared by the author, far -surpasses these imitations in fragrance. - - -HYSSOP. - -_Latin_—Hyssopus officinalis; _French_—Hyssope; _German_—Ysopkraut. - -Hyssop possesses a strong odor, a very bitter taste, and is used only -for cheap perfumery, but more frequently in the manufacture of liqueurs. - - -JASMINE. - -_Latin_—Jasminum odoratissimum; _French_—Jasmin; _German_—Jasminblüthen. - -True jasmine—not to be confounded with German jasmine (Philadelphus -coronarius, known here as the mock orange, or the Syringa of -cultivation) which is likewise employed in perfumery—flourishes -particularly in the coast lands of the Mediterranean, where it is -cultivated as a dwarf tree. The odor obtained from the flowers is one -of the finest and most expensive in existence, and for this reason it -would be well worth trying the cultivation in our southern States. At -present nearly all the true jasmine perfume (pomade, extract, etc.) -comes from France. - - -LAVENDER. - -_Latin_—Lavandula vera; _French_—Lavande; _German_—Lavendel. - -True lavender, which belongs to the Order of Labiatæ that contains -many aromatic plants, is one of the most ancient in our art; it was -early used in Greece for purposes of perfumery. Although true lavender -flourishes throughout central Europe, its cultivation on a large scale -is carried on chiefly in England, and the oil of lavender from English -factories is most highly prized. Much lavender is also grown in France, -but the product, though very fine, has a much lower value. - -True lavender is to be distinguished from spike-lavender (French, -aspic; German, Spik-Lavendel), whose odor is similar to that of true -lavender, but furnishes a much less aromatic perfume. The cultivation -of lavender in this country (U. S.) might give good results. - - -LEMON. - -_Latin_—Citrus Limonum; _French_—Limon; _German_—Limonenfrüchte. - -The fruits of the South European lemon-tree, not to be confounded with -citrons, resemble the latter in appearance, but they are smaller, have -a more acid taste and a thinner rind. The peel contains an essential -oil which is very similar in odor to that of the citron. Hence the oils -of lemon, limetta (from Citrus Limetta), and citron are used for the -same purposes; but when the three oils are immediately compared, an -experienced olfactory organ perceives a marked difference between them. - - -LEMON GRASS. - -_Latin_—Andropogon citrates; _French_—Schoenanthe; -_German_—Citronengrass. - -This grass, which bears a close resemblance to citronella, is largely -cultivated, especially in India and Ceylon, for the essential oil it -contains. The odor of the grass is similar to that of verbena, so that -its oil is often used as an adulterant or rather as a substitute for -the former. (Compare the article on “Citronella.”) - - -LILAC. - -_Latin_—Flores Syringæ; _French_—Lilas; _German_—Fliederblüthen. - -This plant, Syringa vulgaris, a native of Persia but fully acclimated -in Europe and in this country, has very fragrant flowers, the odor of -which can be obtained only from the fresh blossoms. - -A recently discovered liquid principle, now known as terpineol -(C_{10}H_{17}OH), which exists in many essential oils, and in these, in -the portion boiling between 420° and 424° F., possesses the lilac odor -in a most pronounced degree, and to its presence in the lilac flowers -the peculiar odor of the latter is, no doubt, due. It is obtainable in -the market under the name lilacine. - -The Syringa of the florists is not the true lilac, but the same as the -Mock Orange, viz., Philadelphus coronarius. - - -LILY. - -_Latin_—Lilium candidum; _French_—Lis; _German_—Lilienblüthen. - -The remarks made under the head of Wallflower apply equally to the -blossoms of the white garden lily: strange to say, they are not used in -perfumery, and all the so-called odors of lily are mixtures of several -aromatic substances. The author has succeeded in separating from the -flowers, by means of petroleum ether, the delightful odor present in -large amount in the blossoms of this plant, and has employed it in the -manufacture of magnificent perfumes. - - -MACE. - -_Latin_—Macis; _French_—Macis; _German_—Muscatblüthe. - -This substance is the dried arillus covering the fruits of Myristica -fragrans, the so-called nutmegs. The tree bearing them is indigenous -to a group of islands in the Indian Archipelago and is cultivated -especially on the Molucca islands. Although mace is in such close -relation with nutmeg, yet, strange to say, the aromatic substance -differs decidedly from that of the nut. Mace of good quality forms -pieces of orange-yellow color; they are fleshy, usually slit open -on one side, have a strong odor, tear with difficulty, and are so -oily that when crushed they stain the fingers brownish-yellow. Mace -is largely used in the preparation of sachets and particularly for -scenting soap. In England, soap scented with mace is well liked. - - -MAGNOLIA. - -_Latin_—Magnolia grandiflora; _French_—Magnolia; -_German_—Magnoliablüthen. - -The magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), indigenous to the warmer parts of -South, Central, and North America, bears large white flowers having a -delightful odor which can be extracted by means of petroleum ether. -In the same way, truly intoxicating perfumes may be obtained from -other varieties of magnolia. In our climate these plants flourish only -in conservatories, and in their home no steps have yet been taken -to utilize these natural treasures in a proper way; hence European -manufacturers invariably produce the perfume called magnolia by -combination of different odors. - - -MARJORAM. - -_Latin_—Herba majoranæ; _French_—Marjolaine; _German_—Majorankraut. - -This plant, Origanum Majorana (vulgare), frequently cultivated in -kitchen gardens, possesses in all its parts a strong odor due to an -essential oil. The latter, which is quite expensive, is but little -used, and probably only for culinary purposes. - -“Oil of Origanum” in English-speaking countries is intended to mean Oil -of Thyme (from Thymus vulgaris), and never means Oil of Marjoram. - - -MEADOW SWEET. - -_Latin_—Spiræa ulmaria; _French_—Reine des prés; _German_—Spierstaude. - -This plant is frequent in Europe on damp meadows, and contains an -aromatic substance closely allied to oil of wintergreen, which occurs -also in the Canadian variety. - - -MINT. - -_Latin_—Mentha; _French_—Menthe; _German_—Minze. - -The varieties of mint claiming our attention are the following: -_Mentha piperita_, Peppermint (French: Menthe poivrée; German: -Pfefferminze).—_Mentha viridis_, Spearmint (French: Menthe verte; -German: Grüne Minze).—_Mentha crispa_, Crisp Mint (French: Menthe -crépue [or frisée]; German: Krause Minze). - -All of the mints have a pleasant odor; besides the plants named above, -we may mention Mentha aquatica, whose odor faintly but distinctly -recalls that of musk. Like lavender, Mentha crispa and M. piperita are -cultivated particularly in England, and the English oils are the most -superior. Mentha piperita is also largely cultivated in the United -States. Mentha viridis and its oil are almost exclusively confined to -this country. - - -MUSK-SEED. - -_Latin_—Semen Abelmoschi; _French_—Grains d’ambrette; -_German_—Bisamkörner. - -The tree, Hibiscus Abelmoschus, indigenous to Africa and India, bears -fruit capsules containing reddish-gray seeds with grooved surface, -so-called musk-seeds. They have an odor resembling musk, but much -weaker, though it becomes more pronounced when the seeds are bruised. -Besides this species of Hibiscus, other plants belonging to the same -order are aromatic and are also used in perfumery. - - -MYRRH. - -_Latin_—Myrrha; _French_—Myrrhe; _German_—Myrrhe. - -The gum-resin which we call myrrh has long been known in the East, -where it was celebrated as one of the finest perfumes, along with -spikenard and frankincense. The tree, Balsamodendron Myrrha (or -Commiphora Myrrha Engler) is indigenous to the countries bordering -the Red Sea to about 22° N. Lat.; the gum exudes partly spontaneously -from the trunk. In European commerce myrrh appears in different sorts; -that called myrrha electa or myrrha in lacrimis is the most precious; -it forms tears of a golden yellow to brown color, traversed by white -veins; they have a pleasant smell. That called myrrha naturalis is -inferior, but on being heated develops the characteristic aroma. In -commerce a product is sometimes offered by the name of myrrh which is -nothing but cherry-tree gum scented with genuine myrrh. - - -MYRTLE LEAVES. - -_Latin_—Myrtus communis; _French_—Myrte; _German_—Myrtenblätter. - -The leaves of this Southern European plant diffuse a pleasant odor; -the oil to which it is due can be extracted by distillation; yet the -perfumes usually called myrtle are not obtained from the plant, but are -made by the combination of several aromatic substances. The aromatic -water known, especially in France, as “eau d’anges” is obtained by the -distillation of myrtle leaves with water. - - -NARCISSUS. - -_Latin_—Narcissus poeticus; _French_—Narcisse; -_German_—Narcissenblüthen. - -The blossoms of this favorite garden plant, which is cultivated on a -large scale near Nice, have a pleasant, almost narcotic odor which may -be extracted in various ways; though the greatest part of the so-called -narcissus perfumes are made artificially. - -Another species of Narcissus (Narcissus Jonquilla) is frequently -cultivated in warm countries for its pleasant scent; but the perfumes -generally found in the market under the name of Extract, etc., of -Jonquil are artificial compounds. - - -NUTMEG. - -_Latin_—Myristica; _French_—Muscade; _German_—Muscatnüsse. - -These nuts are almost spherical in shape, the size of a small walnut, -of a grayish-brown color externally, and usually coated with a -faint whitish-gray covering (which is lime). Internally they are -reddish-brown, with white marbled spots. Good fresh nutmegs should be -dense, heavy, and so oily that when pierced with a needle a drop of -oil should follow the withdrawal of the latter. Nuts which are hollow, -wormy, and of a faint odor cannot be used in perfumery. Oil of nutmeg -is used extensively in perfumery, but is rarely employed pure, more -commonly in combination with other strong odors. - - -OLIBANUM. - -_Latin_—Olibanum; _French_—Encens; _German_—Weihrauch. - -This gum-resin, employed even by the ancient civilized nations of Asia, -especially as incense for religious purposes, comes from East African -trees, various species of Boswellia. Fine olibanum appears in light -yellow tears, very transparent and hard, whose pleasant though faint -odor becomes particularly marked when it is thrown on hot coals. In -perfumery olibanum is used almost exclusively for pastils, fumigating -powders, etc. Pulverulent olibanum constitutes an inferior quality and -is often adulterated with pine resin. - - -OPOPANAX. - -_Latin_—Resina Opopanax. - -The root stock of an umbelliferous plant, indigenous in Syria, now -recognized at Balsamodendron Kafal, furnishes a yellow milky sap -containing an aromatic resin with an odor resembling that of gum -ammoniacum. At least the opopanax now obtainable in the market is -derived from this source. True opopanax resin, such as used to reach -the market formerly, is now unobtainable, and its true source is yet -unknown. Opopanax oil is used in perfumery to some extent. - - -ORANGE FLOWERS. - -_Latin_—Flores Aurantii; _French_—Fleurs d’oranges; -_German_—Orangenblüthen. - -The flowers of the bitter orange tree (Citrus vulgaris), as well as -those of the sweet (Citrus Aurantium), contain very fragrant essential -oils, which differ in flavor and value according to their source and -mode of preparation. See below, under Oil of Orange. The leaves, too, -contain a peculiar oil used in perfumery. - - -ORANGE PEEL. - -_Latin_—Cortex Aurantii; _French_—Ecorce d’oranges; -_German_—Orangenschalen. - -The very oily rinds of the orange occur in commerce in a dried form; -such peels, however, can be used only in the manufacture of liqueurs; -in perfumery nothing but the oil from the fresh rinds is employed, and -this is generally obtained by pressure. - - -ORIGANUM. - -See Marjoram, and Thyme. - - -ORRIS ROOT. - -_Latin_—Radix Iridis florentinæ; _French_—Iris; _German_—Veilchenwurzel. - -The Florentine sword-lily, Iris florentina, which often grows wild in -Italy but is largely cultivated, has a creeping root-stock covered with -a brown bark which, however, is peeled from the fresh root. Orris root -occurs in commerce in whitish pieces which are sometimes forked; the -surface is knotty, and the size may reach the thickness of a thumb and -the length of a finger. When fresh, the roots have a disagreeable sharp -odor, but on drying they attain an odor which may be said to resemble -that of the violet; but on comparing the two odors immediately, -a considerable difference is perceptible even to the untrained -olfactory sense. Orris root should be as fresh as possible; this may -be recognized by its toughness, the great weight, and the white, not -yellow color on fracture. It is very frequently used for sachets and -for fixing other odors. - - -PALM OIL. - -_Latin_—Oleum Palmæ; _French_—Huile de Palme; _German_—Palmöl. - -Palm oil, a fixed oil derived from Elais guineensis, possesses a -peculiar odor faintly recalling that of violets which is easily -extracted. Although not used thus far in perfumery, personal -experiments have convinced the author that the odor can be employed in -the manufacture of cheap perfumes. - - -PATCHOULY. - -_Latin_—Pogostemon Patchouly; _French_—Patchouly; -_German_—Patschulikraut. - -This herb, indigenous to the East Indies and China, in appearance -somewhat resembling our garden sage, is used in the countries named as -one of the most common perfumes; many East Indian and Chinese goods -(such as Cashmere shawls, India ink, etc.) owe their peculiar odor to -the patchouly herb which is very productive. In this respect it can be -compared only with the nutmeg, but exceeds even this in intensity. This -herb is not known very long in Europe, but at present it is imported -in large quantities from India; in commerce it occurs in small bundles -consisting of stems and leaves (collected before flowering). - - -PERU BALSAM. - -_Latin_—Balsamum peruvianum; _French_—Beaume du Pérou; -_German_—Perubalsam. - -This balsam, imported from Central America (San Salvador), is derived -from Toluifera Pereiræ; incisions are made in the bark and trunk of -the tree, from which the balsam exudes. Peru balsam is of a syrupy -consistence, thick and viscid, brownish-red in thin, blackish-brown in -thick layers. Its taste is pungent, sharp, and bitter, afterward acrid; -its odor is somewhat smoky, but agreeable and balsamic. Peru balsam is -often sophisticated with fixed oil; this can be readily detected by -agitation with alcohol, by which the oil is separated. But if castor -oil is the adulterant, this test is not applicable, as castor oil -dissolves with equal facility in alcohol. - - -PINE-APPLE. - -_Latin_—Bromelia Ananas; _French_—Ananas; _German_—Ananas. - -The fruits of this plant, originally derived from the East Indies, have -a well-known narcotic odor which can be extracted from them. - -In commerce we often meet with a chemical product called pine-apple -ether which will be described at greater length under the head of -chemical products used in perfumery. Pine-apple ether has an odor -usually considered to be like that of the fruit, but when the two -substances are immediately compared a great difference will be -detected. Pine-apple ether finds quite extensive application in -confectionery for the preparation of lemonades, punch, ices, etc. If -the true pine-apple odor is to be prepared from the fruits, care must -be had to use ripe fruits; the unripe or overripe fruits possess a less -delicate aroma. - - -PINK. - -_Latin_—Dianthus Caryophyllus; _French_—Œillet; _German_—Nelkenblüthen. - -The odor of this favorite garden plant can be easily extracted from -the flowers by means of petroleum ether; but the genuine odor of pink -is hardly ever met with in perfumery; the preparations sold under this -name being usually artificial mixtures of other odors. - - -PLUMERIA. - -_Latin_—Plumeria; _French_—Plumeria; _German_—Plumeriablüthen. - -All the Plumerias, indigenous to the Antilles, contain very fragrant -odors in their flowers. To the best of our knowledge, these odors -have not yet been extracted from the flowers, and all the perfumes -sold under this name (sometimes also called Frangipanni) are merely -combinations of different odors. - - -RESEDA (MIGNONETTE). - -_Latin_—Reseda odorata; _French_—Mignonette; _German_—Reseda. - -This herbaceous plant, probably indigenous to northern Africa, but long -domesticated in Europe and cultivated in gardens, is well known for its -refreshing odor. The latter, however, is very difficult to extract and -is yielded only to the method of absorption (enfleurage). The true odor -of reseda, owing to the mode of its preparation, is very expensive, and -for this reason nearly all perfumes sold under this name are produced -from other aromatic substances. - - -RHODIUM. - -_Latin_—Lignum Rhodii; _French_—Bois de rose; _German_—Rosenholz. - -This is derived from two climbing plants, Convolvulus scoparius and -Convolvulus floridus, indigenous to the Canary islands, and is the root -wood of these plants. Its odor resembles that of the rose, and the wood -is frequently used for cheap sachets and for the extraction of the -contained essential oil which was formerly (before oil of rose geranium -was made on the large scale) employed for the adulteration of genuine -oil of rose. - - -ROSE. - -_Latin_—Rosa; _French_—Rose; _German_—Rosenblüthen. - -Horticulture has produced innumerable varieties from wild species -of roses, which differ in size, form, color, as well as in odor. We -instance here only the various odors exhaled by tea roses and moss -roses. Accordingly, perfumers likewise distinguish different odors of -roses. Cultivated on a large scale exclusively for the extraction of -the essential oil, we find different varieties of roses in India, in -European Turkey (Rosa Damascena), in Persia, and in Southern France. -In this country (U. S.), too, oil of roses could be manufactured with -advantage. - -The wild rose, sweet brier, French églantine, possesses a delicate -but very fugitive odor, and therefore the perfume sold as wild rose -is usually prepared from other substances with the addition of oil of -roses. The same remark applies to the odor called “white rose” and to -those sold as “tea rose,” “moss rose,” etc. - - -ROSEMARY. - -_Latin_—Rosmarinus officinalis; _French_—Romarin; _German_—Rosmarin. - -This plant, indigenous to Southern and Central Europe, contains pretty -large quantities of an aromatic oil in its leaves and flowers; the -oil has a refreshing odor and therefore is frequently added in small -amounts to fine perfumes. - - -RUE. - -_Latin_—Ruta graveolens; _French_—Rue; _German_—Raute. - -This plant, cultivated in our gardens and also growing wild here, has -long been employed for its strong odor; in perfumery rue, in a dry -state as well as its oil, is occasionally used. - - -SAGE. - -_Latin_—Salvia officinalis; _French_—Sauge; _German_—Salbei. - -All varieties of sage, the one named being found most frequently -growing wild in the meadows of Southern Europe, and extensively -cultivated in Europe and in this country, possess a very agreeable, -refreshing odor which adheres for a long time even to the dried leaves; -these are therefore very suitable for sachets, tooth powders, etc. - - -SANTAL WOOD. - -_Latin_—Santalum album; _French_—Santal; _German_—Santalholz. - -The tree from which this wood is derived is indigenous to Eastern Asia, -to the Sunda Islands. The wood is soft, very fragrant, and is also -erroneously called sandal wood. The latter is of a dark reddish-brown -color, not fragrant, and is derived from Pterocarpus santalinus, a -tree indigenous to Southern India, and the Philippine Islands; it is -of value to the dyer and the cabinet-maker, but to the perfumer only -for coloring some tinctures. For the purposes of perfumery use can be -made only of santal wood (white or yellow santal wood) which possesses -a very pleasant odor resembling that of oil of rose. Formerly essential -oil of santal was employed for the adulteration of oil of rose. White -and yellow santal wood comes from the same tree—the former from the -smaller trunks of Santalum album. - - -SASSAFRAS. - -_Latin_—Lignum Sassafras; _French_—Sassafras; _German_—Sassafrasholz. - -Sassafras wood, derived from the root of the American tree Sassafras -officinalis, appears in commerce in large bundles. It has a strong -peculiar odor; in the bark of the root the odor is even more marked. In -the European drug trade Sassafras saw dust is also met with, but this -is not rarely mixed with pine saw dust which has been moistened with -fennel water and again dried. In perfumery sassafras wood is less used -for the manufacture of volatile odors than for scenting soap. Since the -principal constituent of oil of sassafras, viz., safrol, has been found -to be contained in the crude oil of Japanese camphor, the latter has to -a very large extent taken the place of the natural oil. - - -SPIKENARD. - -_Latin_—Nardostachys Jatamansi; _French_—Spic-nard; -_German_—Nardenkraut. - -This plant, belonging to the Order of Valerianaceæ, which generally -possess a strong and more or less unpleasant odor, forms one of the -main objects of Oriental perfumery; in the East Indies, where the -plant grows wild on the mountains, the odor is held about in the same -estimation as that of roses, violets, etc., in Europe. Spikenard was -probably known to the ancient Babylonians and Assyrians, for in the -Bible, in the Song of Solomon, we find this plant repeatedly mentioned -and praised for its pleasant odor. As the odor of spikenard is not -appreciated in Europe, the plant is rarely met with in commerce. All -parts of the plant are aromatic, but use is chiefly made of the root, -consisting of fine fibres which are tied in bundles the thickness of a -finger. - - -STAR-ANISE. - -_Latin_—Illicium; Semen Anisi stellati; _French_—Badiane; -_German_—Sternanis. - -Star-anise occurs in commerce in the form of eight-chambered capsules, -each compartment containing one glossy seed, and is derived from a -Chinese tree, Illicium anisatum. The fruits are brown, woody; the seed -has a sweetish taste and an odor resembling that of anise. Outside of -perfumery star-anise is used in the manufacture of liqueurs. Recently -a drug has appeared in commerce under the name of star-anise which -possesses poisonous qualities, and is derived from another variety of -Illicium (Illicium religiosum). While this may be of no consequence -to the perfumer, it is important to the manufacturer of liqueurs who -always uses star-anise for fine goods and never oil of anise. - - -STORAX. - -_Latin_—Styrax; _French_—Styrax; _German_—Storax. - -This product which belongs among the balsams is derived from a small -tree, Liquidambar orientalis, and is obtained from the bark by -heating with water, and also by pressure. It forms a viscid mass like -turpentine, has a gray color, a burning sharp taste, an agreeable odor, -and is easily soluble in strong alcohol; but the odor becomes pleasant -only after the solution is highly diluted. Storax has the peculiar -property of binding different, very delicate odors, to render them less -fugitive, and for this reason finds frequent application in perfumery. - -Oriental storax should not be confounded with American storax -which occurs in commerce under the name of Sweet Gum, Gum Wax, or -Liquidamber, and is derived from Liquidambar styraciflua. It is quite -a thick transparent liquid, light yellow, gradually becoming more -and more solid and darker colored, but is often used in place of the -former, though its odor is less fine. - - -SUMBUL ROOT. - -_Latin_—Radix Sumbul; _French_—Soumboul; _German_—Moschuswurzel. - -The Sumbul plant (Ferula Sumbul), indigenous to Turkestan and -adjoining countries, has a light brown root covered with thin fibres, -which has a penetrating odor of musk. Owing to this quality it is -frequently employed in perfumery, especially for sachets. In commerce -a distinction is made between East Indian and Bokharian or Russian -sumbul, due to the different routes by which the article arrives. The -latter, which possesses the strongest odor, probably because it reaches -the market in a fresher state, is the most valuable. - - -SWEET ALMONDS. - -_Latin_—Amygdala dulcis; _French_—Amandes douces; _German_—Süsse -Mandeln. - -The almond-tree, Amygdalus communis, occurs in two varieties, -undistinguishable by botanical characteristics. One bears sweet, -the other bitter fruits (comp. Bitter almonds, page 24). Both are -odorless and contain much fixed oil. The special odor of bitter almonds -forms only in consequence of the decomposition of a peculiar body -(amygdalin), present in bitter almonds, when it comes in contact with -water. Good almonds are full, juicy, light brown, without wrinkles, and -have a sweet mild taste. A rancid taste characterizes staleness. The -fixed or expressed oil, both that of the sweet and that of the bitter -almonds (which are identical in taste, odor, and other properties), is -used in perfumery for fine hair oils, ointments, and some fine soft -soaps. - - -SWEET-FLAG ROOT. - -_Latin_—Radix Calami; _French_—Racine de glaïeule; -_German_—Calmuswurzel. - -The calamus root met with in commerce is the creeping root-stock of -a plant (Acorus Calamus), occurring in all countries of the northern -hemisphere, and frequent in European and American swamps. The -root-stock is spongy, about as thick as a finger, many-jointed, and of -a yellowish color, with many dark streaks and dots. Inside the color is -reddish-white. The odor is strong and the taste sharp and burning. - - -SWEET-PEA. - -_Latin_—Lathyrus tuberosus; _French_—Pois de senteur; -_German_—Platterbsenblüthen. - -Sweet-pea flowers, which have a very delicate odor, yield it to the -usual solvents. The odor bears some resemblance to that of orange -flowers, but is rarely used alone; it is generally combined with others -to make it more lasting. - - -SYRINGA. - -_Latin_—Philadelphus coronarius; _French_—Seringat, Lilac; -_German_—Pfeifenstrauchblüthen. - -The white flowers of this garden bush have a very pleasant odor which -resembles that of orange flowers, in place of which it can be used, in -the cheaper grades of perfumery. This plant which flourishes freely in -our climate deserves more attention by perfumers than it has hitherto -received, since it appears to furnish an excellent substitute for the -expensive oil of orange flowers, as above stated, in cheap perfumes. - - -THYME. - -_Latin_—Thymus Serpyllum; _French_—Thym; _German_—Thymian. - -This well-known aromatic plant, which grows most luxuriantly on a -calcareous soil, has an odor which is not unpleasant but is in greater -demand for liqueurs than for perfumes. Here and there, however, it is -employed for scenting soap. Common thyme, Thymus vulgaris, is used for -the same purposes. - -Under the name of Oil of Thyme, in the English and American market, -is generally understood the oil of Thymus vulgaris, which is largely -distilled in the South of France. This oil is commonly misnamed Oil of -Origanum. - - -TOLU BALSAM. - -_Latin_—Balsamum tolutanum; _French_—Beaume de Tolu; -_German_—Tolubalsam. - -This balsam is derived from a tree indigenous to the northern portion -of South America, Toluifera Balsamum, belonging to the Order of -Leguminosæ. The balsam, which is obtained by incisions into the bark of -these trees, is at first fluid, but becomes firm in the air owing to -rapid resinification; in commerce it appears in a viscid form ranging -from that of Venice turpentine to that of colophony. Its color varies -from honey-yellow to reddish-brown; the taste is at first sweet, then -sharp, it softens under the heat of the hand, and when warmed or -sprinkled in powder form on glowing coals it diffuses a very pleasant -odor recalling that of Peru balsam or vanilla. It shares with storax -and Peru balsam the valuable property of fixing volatile odors and is -often employed for this purpose, but is also frequently used alone in -fumigating powders, tooth powders, etc. Adulteration of Tolu balsam -with Venice turpentine or colophony is not rarely met with. - - -TONKA BEANS. - -_Latin_—Fabæ Tonkæ; _French_—Fèves de Tonka; _German_—Tonkabohnen, -Tonkasamen. - -The South American tonka tree, Dipteryx odorata, bears almond-shaped -drupes almost as long as the finger, which contain seeds two to four -centimetres in length, the so-called tonka beans. These occur in -European commerce in two sorts, the so-called Dutch and English tonka -beans; the former are large, full, covered externally with a folded -brown to black skin, and white inside. The latter are barely two-thirds -the size of the former, almost black, and less glossy. The odor of the -tonka bean is due to a volatile crystalline substance, coumarin, which -often lies on the surface and in the wrinkles of the bean in the form -of delicate, brilliant crystalline needles. Coumarin exists also in -many other plants, for instance, in sweet woodruff (Asperula odorata), -deer-tongue (Liatris odoratissima), etc. - - -TUBEROSE. - -_Latin_—Polianthus tuberosa; _French_—Tubérose; _German_—Tuberose. - -This beautiful and very fragrant plant is frequently cultivated in -Southern France; its pleasant odor, however, owing to its great -volatility, can never be used pure, but must always be fixed with one -of the above-mentioned balsams. As has been stated in connection with -several aromatic plants, tuberose could be grown in our southern States -with advantage for the extraction of its odor. - - -VANILLA. - -_Latin_—Vanilla aromatica, Vanilla planifolia; _French_—Vanille; -_German_—Vanille. - -The vanilla, which may justly be called a king among aromatic plants, -is a climbing orchid indigenous to tropical America. It is cultivated -on a most extensive scale on the islands of Reunion and Mauritius; -largely also in Mexico, and in some other countries. The agreeable odor -is present in the fruit. These form three-lobed capsules about the -length of a lead pencil and the thickness of a quill. Externally they -are glossy brown, have a fatty feel, and show in the depression a white -powder which appears crystalline under a lens. Internally good fresh -vanilla is so oily that it stains the fingers on being crushed and is -filled with numerous shining seeds the size of a small pin’s head. -These properties, together with the plump appearance and great weight, -mark good qualities. Old vanilla, whose odor is fainter and less -fragrant, may be recognized by its wrinkled surface, the absence of -the white dust, the slight weight, and the bent ends of the capsules. -Fraudulent dealers endeavor to give such old goods a fresher appearance -by coating them with almond oil or Peru balsam. “Vanilla de Leg” is -recognized as the first quality of Mexican vanilla. Like most odors, -that of vanilla does not become pleasant until it is sufficiently -diluted. - - -VERBENA. - -_Latin_—Verbena triphylla, Aloysia citriodora; _French_—Verveine; -_German_—Verbenakraut. - -The leaves of this Peruvian plant, especially on being rubbed between -the fingers, exhale a very pleasant odor which is due to an essential -oil. The odor resembles that of fine citrons, or rather that of lemon -grass; hence these two odors are frequently mistaken for each other. -Owing to the high price of true oil of verbena, all the perfumes -sold under this name are prepared from oil of lemon grass (see under -Citronella) and other essential oils. - - -VETIVER. - -_Latin_—Andropogon muricatus; _French_—Vétyver; _German_—Vetiverwurzel. - -Vetiver, also called cuscus, and sometimes iwarankusa (though this -is more properly the name of Andropogon lanifer; see above, under -Citronella), is the fibrous root-stock of a grass indigenous to India, -where fragrant mats are woven from it. The odor of the root somewhat -resembles that of santal wood, and is used partly alone, partly for -fixing volatile perfumes. Shavings of the root are frequently employed -for filling sachet bags. - - -VIOLET. - -_Latin_—Viola odorata; _French_—Violette; _German_—Veilchenblüthen. - -The wonderful fragrance of the March violet is due to an essential oil -which it is, however, difficult to extract. For this reason genuine -perfume of violets, really prepared from the flowers, is among the -most expensive odors, and the high-priced so-called violet perfumes are -generally mixtures of other fine odors, while the cheaper grades are -made from orris root. - - -VOLKAMERIA. - -This plant, Volkameria inermis, often cultivated in conservatories, has -a very agreeable odor. The perfume called by this name, however, is -not obtained from the plant, but is produced by the mixture of several -aromatic extracts from other plants. - - -WALLFLOWER. - -_Latin_—Cheiranthus Cheiri; _French_—Giroflé; _German_—Levkojenblüthen, -Goldlack. - -The wallflower, a well-known biennial garden plant belonging to the -Order of Cruciferæ, according to recent experiments yields a very fine -odor to certain substances and may be employed in the manufacture of -quite superior perfumes. The preparations usually sold as wallflower, -however, are not made from the flowers of this plant, but are mixtures -of different odors. - - -WINTERGREEN. - -_Latin_—Gaultheria procumbens; _French_—Gaulthérie; -_German_—Wintergrünblätter. - -This herbaceous plant, indigenous to North America, especially Canada -and the Northern and Middle United States, where it grows wild in large -quantities, has a very pleasant odor due to an essential oil and a -compound ether which can also be produced artificially. The odor of -wintergreen serves chiefly for scenting fine soaps. - - -YLANG-YLANG. - -This plant, Unona odoratissima, indigenous to the Philippine Islands, -contains an exceedingly fragrant oil. It is brought into commerce from -Manilla. - - * * * * * - -Owing to climatic relations, it is impossible for the perfumer to -procure all the above-enumerated substances in the fresh state; many -of them he is forced to purchase through the drug trade, and he should -bear in mind to give the preference always to the freshest obtainable -goods. At times it is not possible to utilize the materials at once -for the extraction of the odors and they must be kept for some time. -The vegetable substances should always be stored in an airy, not over -dry room; and the material should be often inspected. If a trace of -mouldiness shows itself, the material must be worked at once, since, -if the mould is allowed to go on, the fragrance will suffer and may be -destroyed altogether. - -The aromatic substances here enumerated are those which have actually -found general employment in perfumery; but the list is not complete, -since every aromatic plant can be used for the extraction of its -odor. Of course, this is connected with some difficulties, but even -in the present state of our knowledge they can all be overcome. When -a new odor has been prepared, the art of the perfumer consists in -ascertaining by many experiments those substances which harmonize with -it; for with few exceptions the finest grades of perfumes are not -single odors but combinations of several which are in accord. - -Even among our domestic plants there are numerous finds to be made by -the perfumer, and in this respect we refer particularly to some very -fragrant kinds of orchids in our woods and to the delightful odor of -the lily of the valley. As to the latter, a perfume is met with in -commerce under this name, but its odor bears no resemblance to that of -the flower. - -A few facts appear to us of especial importance. In practical perfumery -many of the plants which are easily obtainable in large quantities, -such as the flowers of clover and trefoil, the primrose, the rock-rose -(Daphne Cneorum), dame’s-violet (Hesperis matronalis), and others -above named, have never been employed. As an actual curiosity we may -state that there is thus far no perfume containing the delightful odor -present in the flowers of the linden-tree, of the Robinia (erroneously -called Acacia), of the lilac, etc., at least not made from the plants -here named. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -THE ANIMAL SUBSTANCES USED IN PERFUMERY. - - -While the vegetable kingdom offers us an abundance of aromatic odors -the end of which it is impossible to foresee, the animal kingdom -contains absolutely no substance which may be called sweet-scented in -the strict sense of the term. If we find nevertheless a few animal -substances generally used in perfumery, they should be considered -rather as excellent means for fixing subtle vegetable odors than as -fragrant bodies in the true sense. By themselves, indeed, they have -an odor, but to most persons it is not agreeable even if properly -diluted. Thus far only five substances of animal origin are employed in -perfumery, namely: ambergris, castor, hyraceum, musk, and civet. - - -AMBERGRIS. - -_Latin_—Ambra grisea; _French_—Ambregris; _German_—Ambra. - -This is a substance whose origin is still doubtful; many facts -indicate that it is a secretion—whether normal or morbid may be left -undecided—of the largest living mammal, namely, of the pot-whale -(Physeter macrocephalus). Ambergris is found in the intestines of this -animal or, more frequently, floating about in the sea; the shores of -the continents bordering the Indian Ocean furnish the largest amount of -this peculiar substance. - -Ambergris is a grayish-white fatty substance which occurs in commerce -in pieces of various sizes—those as large as a fist are rare—of a -penetrating, decidedly disagreeable odor. It is soluble in alcohol, and -when properly diluted the odor becomes pleasant and it is so permanent -that a piece of linen moistened with it smells of it even after being -washed with soap. By itself, ambergris is not much used; it finds its -chief application in combination with other odors or as an addition to -some perfumes in order to make them lasting. - - -CASTOR. - -_Latin_—Castoreum; _French_—Castoreum; _German_—Castoreum. - -This is a secretion of the beaver (Castor fiber); it accumulates in two -pear-shaped bags on the abdomen of the animal, both male and female. -The hunters remove these bags from the body of the dead animal and in -this form they are brought into commerce. These sacs are the length of -a finger, at the thickest point the diameter of a thumb, and contain -a greasy mass of yellowish-brown, reddish-brown, or blackish color, -according to the nourishment of the animal. This mass constitutes -castor; it has a strong, disagreeable odor, a bitter, balsamic taste, -becomes soft when heated, is combustible, and almost entirely soluble -in alcohol. It is probable that this secretion in its composition -has some relation to the nourishment of the beavers which feed by -preference on resinous vegetable substances. In commerce Canadian and -Siberian castor are distinguished; the latter is more valuable and has -almost disappeared from the market. It possesses a peculiar tarry, -Russian-leather odor, probably due to a substance present in birch -bark, upon which the Siberian animals feed almost exclusively. Canadian -castor has an odor more nearly resembling pine resin. In perfumery -castor is rarely used, usually only for fixing other odors. - - -HYRACEUM. - -The substance occurring in commerce under this name, the excrement of -an animal found in Capeland, the rock badger or rock rabbit (Hyrax -capensis), is very similar in its properties to castor, and according -to comparative experiments made by us can be used in place of the -latter. - - -MUSK. - -_Latin_—Moschus; _French_—Musc; _German_—Moschus. - -Of animal substances, musk is most frequently used in perfumery, and -possesses the most agreeable odor of them all. Moreover, the odor of -musk is the most intense that we know, actually imponderable quantities -of it being sufficient to impart to a large body of air the strong odor -of musk. This substance is derived from a deer which attains the size -of a small goat and, like the chamois of the Alps, lives on the highest -mountains of the Himalayas. Only the male animal (Moschus moschiferus) -produces musk, which is secreted in a sac or rather gland near the -sexual organ. Musk being subject to the worst adulterations owing to -its high price, we append a description of the substance as well as of -the sac or bag in which it appears in commerce. - -The musk bag cut by the hunter from the body of the animal has the size -and shape of half a walnut. On the side by which it was attached to the -body of the animal it is membranous and nearly smooth; on the external -surface it is more or less hemispherical and covered with light brown -or dark brown hair, according to the season at which the animal was -killed. The hair assumes a circular arrangement around an opening -situated in the centre of the bag. This opening, the efferent duct -of the gland, is formed by a ring-shaped muscle which yields to the -pressure of a pointed object and permits the introduction of the point -of the finger. Internally the musk bag consists of several layers of -membrane which surround the musk itself. It is probable that the musk -is secreted by these membranes, for when the animal is dissected, no -direct communication of the musk gland with the body can be detected. - -It has been surmised that the secretion of musk bears some relation -to the food; at least it has been asserted that the animals eat, -among other things, sumbul root with great avidity; and this root, it -will be remembered, has a very intense odor of musk. However, though -this appears probable at first sight, it is contradicted by the fact -that the females and the young males likewise eat the root without -manifesting any odor of musk nor do they secrete the substance, while -the older males produce it even when they are fed with hay only. -Another fact is of interest, namely, that other ruminants, too, for -instance, cattle, diffuse a marked though faint odor of musk which -occurs also in their excrements, exactly as in the case of the musk -deer. Alligators likewise produce a musk-like substance which has -actually been made use of in place of musk for coarser purposes. - -The musk present in the glands differs in appearance with the season -and the age of the animal. Musk deers killed in spring have in their -musk bag an unctuous soft mass of a reddish-brown color with the -strongest odor; at other seasons the mass is darker in color, almost -black, and granular; the size of the grains ranges from that of a -millet-seed to that of a large pea. - -That the secretion of musk belongs to the sexual functions appears -probable from the fact that it can be found only in the bags of males -more than two years old; that of younger animals contains only a -substance of a milky consistence, whose odor has no resemblance to that -of musk. The quantity of musk present in a bag varies with the season -and the age of the animal; the smallest quantity may be assumed at -about six drachms, though some bags contain as much as one and a half -ounces. - -The hunters dry the bags either on hot stones or in the air, or they -dip them into hot oil. In commerce musk occurs either in bags under the -name moschus in vesicis, “musk in pods,” or free, moschus in granis, -moschus ex vesicis, “grain musk.” According to its origin four sorts -are distinguished: Chinese or Tonquin musk, Siberian or Russian musk, -Assam or Bengal musk, and finally Bokharian musk. The latter two -varieties, however, rarely reach this market. Chinese musk (Tonquin or -Thibet musk) occurs in small boxes containing twenty to thirty bags, -each wrapped in Chinese tissue paper; on which Chinese characters -are printed. This is considered the best quality. Assam musk occurs -in boxes lined with tin which contain as many as two hundred or more -bags; its value is about two-thirds that of the former. Russian musk -is packed in various ways and is worth about one-fourth that of the -Chinese; a special variety of it, of a weaker and rather urinous odor, -is known as Cabardine musk; of least value is Bokharian musk which is -of a grayish black color, with a faint odor. - -Musk is adulterated in an almost incredible manner; at times so-called -musk bags are met with which are artificially constructed of animal -membranes and filled with dried blood, earth, etc., and slightly -scented with genuine musk. But even the genuine musk bags are often -tampered with; musk being removed from the opening and the space filled -with earth, dried blood, animal excrement, or perhaps pieces of copper -and lead. - -Pure musk reacts quite characteristically toward caustic alkalies such -as caustic potash and soda or solution of ammonia, and these substances -are used for testing the purity of musk. If a dilute alkaline solution -is poured over musk, a marked increase of the odor is observed after -a short time; if the alkaline solution is concentrated or hot, the -odor of musk disappears completely and the fluid develops the caustic -odor of pure ammonia. Hot water dissolves about eighty per cent of -the total weight of musk; strong alcohol dissolves about one-tenth -of it; when heated in an open porcelain capsule, musk burns with a -disgusting empyreumatic odor and leaves a considerable amount of ash, -about one-tenth of its weight. Besides the above-named substances which -destroy the musk odor by the decomposition of the aromatic constituent, -there are other bodies, whose action we do not know at present, which -have the peculiar property of completely extinguishing this most -penetrating of all odors: to deodorize a vessel completely which has -contained musk, it is sufficient to rub in it some bitter almonds -moistened with water or some camphor with alcohol. - -In an extremely dilute condition musk is used for perfuming the finest -soaps and sachets, and even in the manufacture of the most expensive -and best perfumes, owing to its property of imparting permanence -to very volatile odors. In the last-mentioned class, however, the -quantity of musk must always be so small that its presence is not -distinctly observed, since many persons find the pure odor of musk -very disagreeable, while they praise the fragrance of such perfumes as -contain an amount of this substance too small to be perceived by the -olfactory nerves. - - -CIVET. - -_Latin_—Civetta; _French_—Civette; _German_—Zibeth. - -This substance bears some resemblance to musk with reference to its -derivation and the rôle it plays in the life of the animal from which -it is obtained. The Viverridæ, a class of carnivora related to the -cats and weasels, found in Asia and Africa, furnish this substance. -It is obtained chiefly from the civet cat (Viverra Civetta) and the -musk rat (Viverra Zibetha) which are kept in captivity for the purpose -of abstracting from them from time to time the civet which is always -formed anew. - -Civet is the secretion of a double gland present both in the male and -the female near the sexual organs. Fresh civet is a whitish-yellow mass -of the consistence of butter or fat, and becomes thicker and darker -on exposure to the air. Similar to musk, it has a strong odor which -becomes pleasant on being diluted and is used both alone and for fixing -other odors. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -THE CHEMICAL PRODUCTS USED IN PERFUMERY. - - -In the manufacture of perfumery a considerable number of chemical -products find application; in this place, however, we shall describe -only those which are used very frequently and generally, and discuss -the characteristics of those employed more rarely in connection with -the articles of perfumery into which they enter. According to their -application we may divide these substances into several groups, namely: - -A. Chemicals which, without themselves serving as perfumes, are used -exclusively for the extraction of odors. - -B. Chemicals which, while not fragrant, are frequently employed in the -preparation of perfumes. Under this head we have included also those -substances which are not strictly chemical products, but originally -come from the animal or vegetable kingdom, such as fats, spermaceti, -and wax, yet cannot be used in perfumery unless they have undergone a -process of chemical purification. - -C. Chemical products used for coloring perfumes, so-called dye-stuffs. - -The greater portion of the substances to be here described it will -hardly be the province of the perfumer to prepare himself, as they are -furnished by chemical factories at low prices; but some of them—for -instance, sublimed, natural benzoic acid suitable for perfumery and a -few other substances—the perfumer should make himself, in order to be -sure of its genuineness. Therefore, while in the former class it will -be sufficient to describe their properties to enable the manufacturer -to distinguish good quality from bad, the latter class must be -discussed at greater length. - - -A. Chemicals used for the Extraction of Aromatic Substances. - -For the extraction of aromatic substances from plants a number of -bodies are used which possess great solvent power for essential oils, -and are besides very volatile, or have a low boiling-point. These are -particularly ether, chloroform, petroleum ether, and bisulphide of -carbon. - - -ETHER. - -This liquid, in commerce also called sulphuric ether, is made in large -quantities in chemical laboratories by the distillation of alcohol with -sulphuric acid, followed by a second distillation or rectification. -When pure, ether forms a mobile, thin, strong-smelling, and inflammable -liquid which when inhaled produces insensibility, for which reason it -is used as an anæsthetic in surgery. Its specific gravity is about -0.720 when anhydrous, and its boiling-point 35° C. (95° F.). It forms -an excellent solvent for essential oils, resins, fats, and similar -bodies. Owing to its great volatility, its vapors are quickly diffused -in the air, and, as they are very inflammable, lights must be kept away -from a bottle containing this substance. The same remark applies to -most of the substances to be presently described. - - -CHLOROFORM - -is prepared by the distillation of chlorinated lime, alcohol, and -water, acetone being more recently substituted for the alcohol, -followed by rectification of the product. When inhaled it produces -insensibility like ether. It has a pleasant odor and sweet taste. Its -specific gravity is about 1.49 and its boiling-point 61° C. (142° F.). -Owing to its great solvent power and low boiling-point, chloroform is -largely used for the extraction of aromatic vegetable substances; it -does not take fire directly in the air. - - -PETROLEUM ETHER. - -Petroleum, which is brought into commerce in immense quantities, -especially from Pennsylvania, for illuminating purposes, cannot be used -in its crude state, but requires rectification. Petroleum as it issues -from the earth consists of various hydrocarbons mixed together, some of -which have very low boiling-points, so that their vapors readily take -fire and would make the use of petroleum in lamps dangerous. Petroleum, -therefore, is heated in large apparatuses to about 70 or 80° C. (158 to -176° F.), when the more volatile products pass over, and the petroleum -for illuminating purposes remains in the stills. A certain fraction -of the volatile distillate, the so-called petroleum ether, is largely -used in the manufacture of varnishes. Owing to its great solvent power -for aromatic vegetable substances and its low price, petroleum ether -has become quite an important body for the extraction of perfumes, -which will be further discussed hereafter. Good petroleum ether is -colorless, has a peculiar, not unpleasant odor and a boiling-point -between 50 and 55° C. (112° and 131° F.). - - -BENZIN - -is a common name for another fraction of the volatile distillate from -petroleum, viz., that which boils between 50° and 60°C. (122° to 140° -F.) and has a spec. grav. of 0.670 to 0.675°. - -This liquid, which is also used as a volatile solvent for the -extraction of odorous substances, must not be confounded with Benzene -or Benzol, a distillate from coal tar, boiling at about 80° C. (176° -F.) and having a spec. grav. of 0.878. The latter is not used for the -extraction of perfumes. - - -BISULPHIDE OF CARBON. - -This is made by conducting vapors of sulphur over glowing charcoal -or coke. The vapors of bisulphide of carbon thus formed are led into -vessels filled with ice or ice-cold water, where they condense. -Bisulphide of carbon is a colorless liquid, heavier than water and very -refractive. It is inflammable, and possesses a peculiar odor which -is not disagreeable if the liquid has been thoroughly purified. Its -boiling-point is about 45° C. (113° F.) and it has great solvent power. -At the present time, the market affords bisulphide of carbon of a high -degree of purity. - -Some manufacturers who prepare their odors by extraction, may find it -advantageous to make also the bisulphide of carbon necessary for it, -and this is best done in Gérard’s apparatus (Fig. 1). It consists of -a cast-iron cylinder _a_, two metres high and one metre in diameter. -This cylinder is heated on the outer surface in an oven, and two tubes, -_c_ and _d_, are attached to it. Tube _d_ is connected by _e_ with -the hemispherical vessel _b_ which is connected by the tube _i_ with -the condenser _mlk_. The condenser is formed of three cylinders made -of sheet zinc which are surrounded with cold water. The condensed -liquid escapes into the vessel _p_, while the gaseous products pass -through _n_ into the chimney. The cylinder _a_ is filled with about -1,500 pounds of charcoal or coke in small pieces, after which it is -closed and all tubes are carefully luted with clay; _a_ is then heated -to a strong red heat and at intervals of three minutes 3 pounds of -sulphur are thrown in through _c_. In twenty-four hours, by the use of -478 pounds of sulphur, 568 pounds of crude bisulphide of carbon are -obtained; a portion of the sulphur distils over uncombined into the -vessel _b_. - -[Illustration: FIG. 1.] - -The crude bisulphide of carbon contains about twelve per cent of -sulphur and other combinations in solution and is redistilled at -exactly 48° C. (118.4° F.) in a steam-heated apparatus with a long exit -tube cooled with ice below and water above. In order to obtain the -bisulphide of carbon absolutely pure, which is essential to render it -suitable for extraction, it is again distilled at the same temperature, -with the addition of two per cent of palm oil. As the vapors of -bisulphide of carbon are injurious to the organism, the vessels -containing it must always be kept well closed. - - -B. Chemical Products used for the Preparation of Perfumes. - -Among all the substances belonging under this head, there is one -which plays a prominent part in the manufacture of most perfumes. In -handkerchief perfumes it is one of the most important substances, as -it forms not only the greatest bulk, but the perfection of the perfume -depends upon its quality. This substance is— - - -ALCOHOL, - -also called spirit of wine; French, esprit de vin; the well-known -combustible liquid formed by the alcoholic fermentation of sugar, -which is made on a large scale in extensive distilleries. Alcohol is a -thin, mobile liquid with an aromatic odor. The usual “strong” alcohol -of the market contains about ninety-four per cent of absolute alcohol -by volume. This has a specific gravity of 0·820. Its boiling-point is -78·2° C. (172·40 F.), and it congeals at a very low temperature, below --100° C. Alcohol possesses great solvent power for resins, balsams, and -essential oils. - -These properties, however, belong only to the commercial stronger or -so-called “druggists’ alcohol,” and more particularly to a very pure -quality of it, as free as possible from fusel-oil compounds, known as -cologne spirit. As absolute alcohol is also necessary for the purposes -of perfumery, we shall briefly describe its preparation. - -In order to make absolute alcohol, sulphate of copper is heated in a -retort until it has changed into a white powder. After the powder has -cooled in the covered retort, it is at once introduced into a large -glass bottle; over it is poured the strongest obtainable alcohol (96% -Tralles) which must be free from fusel oil; then the bottle is closed -air-tight and repeatedly shaken. The sulphate of copper which has lost -its water of crystallization by the heat reabsorbs it from the alcohol -and again becomes blue and crystalline. Generally four pounds of -sulphate of copper are used for ten quarts of alcohol; when white burnt -sulphate of copper after long contact with alcohol still remains white, -the alcohol is proved to be practically anhydrous (it may still contain -about two per cent of water). - -Larger quantities of absolute alcohol are made in a copper still -containing fused anhydrous chloride of calcium in small pieces. The -apparatus is closed and alcohol of 94 to 95% is poured in through a -tubulure. The mixture often grows so warm that the alcohol begins to -pass over, so that but little heat need be applied to make the absolute -alcohol distil over. - -Absolute alcohol obtained in this way—for by repeated distillation -we get at most an alcohol of 96%—abstracts water from the air with -avidity; hence it must be preserved in air-tight vessels which should -contain a small amount of anhydrous sulphate of copper. - -[Illustration: FIG. 2.] - -Strong commercial alcohol contains varying amounts of water—from four -to twenty parts by volume (96 to 80% alcohol); at the present time, -however, it is always customary for dealers in this country to supply -the officinal alcohol of 94%, when “strong alcohol” is called for. -Its strength is measured by an areometer which sinks in proportion to -the purity of the alcohol; the alcoholometer of Tralles or volumeter -shows at once on its scale how many parts by volume of absolute -alcohol (volume per cent) are contained in 100 volumes of alcohol. The -adjoining figure (Fig. 2) shows Tralles’ alcoholometer, with the vessel -in which the test is made. The readings of the instrument, however, -are correct only at a temperature of 15·6° C. (60° F.), the so-called -normal temperature; at a higher or lower point they must be corrected -according to the tables appended. - -At temperatures below the normal, the amount of alcohol is greater than -the areometer indicates, hence a percentage must be added; at higher -temperatures a percentage must be deducted. - - TABLES FOR FINDING THE TRUE PERCENTAGE BY VOLUME, AT THE NORMAL - TEMPERATURE OF 60° F., OF ALCOHOL OF ANY STRENGTH, WHEN TESTED AT - TEMPERATURES BELOW OR ABOVE 60° F. - -TABLE I.—FOR TEMPERATURES UNDER 60° F. - - ————————+———————————--+ - Per cent| Number | - of |of F. Degrees| - Alcohol| Requiring | - by | ADDITION of | - Volume. | one to | - | Percentage. | - ————————+———————————--+ - 21 | 5·4 | - 22 | 5·175 | - 23 | 4·725 | - 24 | 4·5 | - 25 | 4·5 | - 26 | 4·5 | - 27 | 4·5 | - 28 | 4·275 | - 29 | 4·275 | - 30 | 4·275 | - 31 | 4·275 | - 32 | 4·275 | - 33 | 4·275 | - 34 | 4·275 | - 35 | 4·5 | - 36 | 4·5 | - 37 | 4·5 | - 38 | 4·5 | - 39 | 4·5 | - 40 | 4·5 | - 41 | 4·725 | - 42 | 4·725 | - 43 | 4·725 | - 44 | 4·725 | - 45 | 4·95 | - 46 | 4·95 | - 47 | 4·95 | - 48 | 4·95 | - 49 | 4·95 | - 50 | 5·175 | - 51 | 5·175 | - 52 | 5·175 | - 53 | 5·175 | - 54 | 5·175 | - 55 | 5·175 | - 56 | 5·175 | - 57 | 5·4 | - 58 | 5·4 | - 59 | 5·4 | - 60 | 5·4 | - 61 | 5·4 | - 62 | 5·4 | - 63 | 5·625 | - 64 | 5·625 | - 65 | 5·625 | - 66 | 5·625 | - 67 | 5·625 | - 68 | 5·85 | - 69 | 5·85 | - 70 | 5·85 | - 71 | 5·85 | - 72 | 5·85 | - 73 | 5·85 | - 74 | 6·075 | - 75 | 6·075 | - 76 | 6·075 | - 77 | 6·075 | - 78 | 6·3 | - 79 | 6·3 | - 80 | 6·3 | - 81 | 6·525 | - 82 | 6·525 | - 83 | 6·75 | - 84 | 6·75 | - 85 | 6·75 | - 86 | 6·75 | - 87 | 6·975 | - 88 | 7·2 | - 89 | 7·425 | - 90 | 7·65 | - 91 | 7·875 | - 92 | 8·1 | - 93 | 8·325 | - 94 | 8·775 | - 95 | 9· | - 96 | 9·45 | - 97 | 10·125 | - ————————+———————————--+ - - EXPLANATION.—Supposing an alcohol should be found to contain 40 per - cent of absolute alcohol by Tralles’ alcoholometer at 45° F. The - difference between 45 and 60° F. is 15. Opposite to 40 will be found - the figure 4·5. For every 4·5 degrees F. below 60° there must be added - 1 to the alcoholic percentage. Hence for 15 degrees there must be - added 3.3 degrees. The alcoholic percentage, by volume, therefore, is - 43·3 per cent. - - -TABLE II.—FOR TEMPERATURES ABOVE 60° F. - - ————————+————————-———- - Per cent| Number - of |of F. Degrees - Alcohol | Requiring - by |SUBTRACTION - Volume. | of one from - | Percentage. - ————————+——————-—————- - 21 | 5·85 - 22 | 5·625 - 23 | 5·4 - 24 | 5·175 - 25 | 4·95 - 26 | 4·95 - 27 | 4·725 - 28 | 4·725 - 29 | 4·5 - 30 | 4·5 - 31 | 4·5 - 32 | 4·5 - 33 | 4·5 - 34 | 4·5 - 35 | 4·5 - 36 | 4·5 - 37 | 4·5 - 38 | 4·5 - 39 | 4·5 - 40 | 4·5 - 41 | 4·5 - 42 | 4·5 - 43 | 4·5 - 44 | 4·5 - 45 | 4·5 - 46 | 4·5 - 47 | 4·725 - 48 | 4·725 - 49 | 4·725 - 50 | 4·725 - 51 | 4·725 - 52 | 4·725 - 53 | 4·95 - 54 | 4·95 - 55 | 4·95 - 56 | 5·175 - 57 | 5·175 - 58 | 5·175 - 59 | 5·175 - 60 | 5·175 - 61 | 5·175 - 62 | 5·175 - 63 | 5·175 - 64 | 5·175 - 65 | 5·175 - 66 | 5·4 - 67 | 5·4 - 68 | 5·4 - 69 | 5·625 - 70 | 5·625 - 71 | 5·625 - 72 | 5·625 - 73 | 5·625 - 74 | 5·625 - 75 | 5·85 - 76 | 5·85 - 77 | 5·85 - 78 | 5·85 - 79 | 6·075 - 80 | 6·075 - 81 | 6·075 - 82 | 6·075 - 83 | 6·3 - 84 | 6·3 - 85 | 6·3 - 86 | 6·525 - 87 | 6·525 - 88 | 6·525 - 89 | 6·75 - 90 | 6·975 - 91 | 6·975 - 92 | 7·425 - 93 | 7·425 - 94 | 7·65 - 95 | 7·65 - 96 | 8·1 - 97 | 8·1 - 98 | 8·325 - 99 | 9·45 - 100 | 9·9 - ————————+——————————-- - - EXPLANATION.—In this case, the same calculation is performed as - directed under Table I., except that the correction is to be - _deducted_ instead of added. - -Aside from the water present in it, commercial alcohol is never -pure, but always contains small quantities, at times mere traces, -of substances having a peculiar, sometimes pleasant, sometimes -disagreeable, but invariably intense odor, which are known as fusel -oils. The variety of fusel oil differs with the raw material from which -the alcohol was made; there is a potato fusel oil (chemically amyl -alcohol), a corn fusel oil, a beet fusel oil, wine fusel oil (œnanthic -ether), etc. Fusel oils, being themselves odorous substances, exert an -influence on the fragrance of the perfume; hence it is a general rule -in perfumery to use only alcohol free from fusel oil; that is, such -from which the fusel oil has been extracted as far as possible by means -of fresh charcoal. So-called “Cologne Spirit” of the best quality is, -as a rule, practically free from it. - -Strange to say, some essential oils or aromatic substances in general, -develop their finest odors only when the perfumes are prepared with an -alcohol from a certain source. While the charcoal treatment removes -almost all the fusel oil, the remaining traces suffice to act as -odorous substances in the true sense of the term and to produce with -other aromatic bodies a harmony of the odor which can never be reached -by the use of another variety of alcohol. To give but a single instance -we may state that all the citron odors known in perfumery develop the -finest aroma only when dissolved in alcohol made from wine and the -solution is then distilled. The world-renowned eau de Cologne is made -in this way; the other aromatic substances contained in it are added to -the distillate from the spirit of wine and the citron oils; any cologne -made in another manner or with another alcohol has a less fine odor. -While the citron odors require true spirit of wine for the development -of their full aroma, other scents require beet or corn alcohol to bring -out their best odor. Jasmine, tuberose, orange flowers, violet, etc., -and all animal odors (ambergris, musk, and civet) belong to the latter -class. For this remarkable and to the perfumer most important fact we -know no other explanation than that traces of fusel oils present even -in rectified alcohol take part in the general impression made on the -olfactory nerves, acting as true aromatic substances. - -Cologne spirit is expensive, but this should not be a reason for -accepting a cheaper grade, with which it would be absolutely impossible -to make really fine perfumes. - -Alcohol is also generally used for the direct extraction of odorous -substances from plants, as will be seen in the description of the -processes employed in the preparation of the so-called essences or -extracts. For these purposes, too, the best cologne spirit only -should be used, that is, alcohol which has been freed from fusel oil -and redistilled, for in no other way can the aromatic substances be -obtained in the greatest possible purity. And this is indispensable -for the preparation of really fine perfumes, for we do not hesitate -to say that French and English perfumes have acquired their deserved -reputation mainly through the great care exercised in the selection of -their raw materials, and especially of the alcohol used for extraction. - - -ALLOXAN. - -This preparation, which is used in making a fine skin cosmetic, is -manufactured in chemical laboratories from uric acid heated with nitric -acid. Alloxan is a crystalline colorless body which has the property -of gradually producing a red tint on the skin and finds employment for -this reason. - - -AMMONIA. - -Ammonia is a gas formed by the decomposition of nitrogenous substances, -but chiefly obtained, on a large scale, from the so-called “gas -liquor” of gas works. By itself it develops a very disagreeable odor -and stimulates the lachrymal glands to secretion—a fact which can -be verified in any stable. A solution of the gas (water of ammonia; -liquor ammoniæ) possesses the same properties. In perfumery ammonia is -never used alone, but only in combination with other odors, namely, -in the manufacture of smelling salts (French: sels volatils; German: -Riechsalze), which are much in favor in England and in this country. -For the purposes of the perfumer, the greater part of the commercial -ammonia is unsuitable owing to its tarry odor. Pure ammonia is best -prepared by heating equal parts of quicklime and powdered sal-ammoniac -in a retort, and conducting the generated gas into water which -dissolves it with avidity, one quart of water dissolving more than -seven hundred quarts of ammonia gas. - - -CARBONATE OF AMMONIA, - -a combination of ammonia with carbonic acid, occurs in commerce in -large transparent lumps, often covered with a white dust of bicarbonate -of ammonia, which in the air continually develop ammonia and therefore -always smell of it. This commercial product is, as a rule, sufficiently -pure to be used in perfumery; as to its application the same remarks -apply as were made under the head of ammonia. - - -OIL OF BITTER ALMONDS (OLEUM AMYGDALÆ AMARÆ). - -This is made from bitter almonds, previously deprived of fatty oil by -pressure, which are mixed with an equal weight of water and set in a -warm place. The amygdalin undergoes decomposition into sugar, hydrogen -cyanide, and benzoyl hydride or oil of bitter almonds. After one or two -days the mass is distilled; the distillate being a colorless liquid, -containing, besides oil of bitter almonds, hydrogen cyanide or prussic -acid, one of the most virulent poisons, from which it must be freed. -This is done by shaking the liquid repeatedly with dilute solution of -potassa, followed by agitation with water. Pure oil of bitter almonds -is not poisonous, but has a very strong narcotic odor of bitter -almonds, which, however, becomes most marked when largely diluted with -water. - - -BENZOIC ACID (ACIDUM BENZOICUM). - -This acid, contained in benzoin, is made also synthetically from other -materials, in chemical laboratories. When pure it forms needle-shaped -crystals having a silky gloss; they have a peculiar acrid taste, but no -odor. Synthetic benzoic acid is worthless to the perfumer; in his art -he can use only a benzoic acid made from gum benzoin by sublimation, -because it contains a very aromatic essential oil for which the acid -is merely the vehicle and which can also be employed alone. - -As this sublimed benzoic acid is often adulterated with the artificial, -we advise the manufacturer of perfumery to make his own benzoic acid -according to the following directions. - - -_The Manufacture of Sublimed Benzoic Acid._ - -About four pounds of benzoin B of best quality is broken into small -pieces and placed in a small copper boiler K (Fig. 3); over its entire -surface is pasted white blotting paper L, and to this is pasted a cone -of strong paper which must surround the edge of the boiler. The cone -ends above in a paper tube R, about five feet long and an inch wide. -The copper boiler is placed in a large clay pot T (a flower pot) and -surrounded on all sides with fine sand. The clay pot is heated from -without by a charcoal fire. After the pot has remained about half an -hour on the fire, the latter is fanned to its utmost and kept at this -point for thirty minutes. The heat volatilizes the benzoic acid, the -above-mentioned essential oil, and some tarry substances of a brown -color. The latter are arrested by the filter paper, while the benzoic -acid is deposited on the cone and in the tube, in the form of delicate -glossy needles which are very fragrant owing to the essential oil. -The largest yield of benzoic acid is obtained when the temperature is -raised very gradually, until finally nothing remains in the copper -boiler but a brown, almost carbonized mass of a blistered appearance. - -[Illustration: FIG. 3.] - - -BORAX (SODII BORAS) - -is used in some preparations. Borax forms colorless crystals which -slightly effloresce in dry air and hence must be preserved in tightly -closed vessels. Reddish tinted crystals are contaminated with oxide of -iron and should be rejected. - - -PERMANGANATE OF POTASSIUM (POTASSI PERMANGANAS) - -is a salt formed by fusing a mixture of manganese dioxide, potassa, and -potassium chlorate, extracting the product with water, and evaporating -the solution to crystallization; the salt is obtained in small dark -violet, almost black crystals which dissolve in sixteen parts of water -to which they impart a beautiful violet color. By contact with organic -substances, or others easily oxidized, the solution changes its color -into green and finally is decolorized, precipitating a brown powder. -Owing to this change of color the salt has been called chameleon -mineral. As its preparation requires considerable dexterity, it is -preferable to buy it from reputable houses, rather than to make it. It -is used in the manufacture of mouth washes and hair dyes. The solution -of the salt causes brown stains on linen and the skin; they can be -removed only if the spots are immediately washed with hydrochloric, -oxalic, sulphuric, or another acid. - - -ACETIC ACID (ACIDUM ACETICUM). - -Much confusion exists in the literature regarding the strength of -acetic acid when merely called by this name. It is safe to assume -that, in each country, the term applies to the acid officinal in -its national pharmacopœia as “Acidum Aceticum.” Thus the Austrian -and German pharmacopœias understand by it an acid containing 96% of -absolute acetic acid, which is practically identical with what is -known as glacial acetic acid. The latter is, in some pharmacopœias, -distinguished by a special name: acidum aceticum glaciale, U.S. P.; -acide acétique crystallisable, French Pharm.—In the present work, the -author always intended the strong acid of the Austrian pharmacopœia -to be understood when no other strength was designated. Like alcohol, -strong acetic acid dissolves essential oils and is used in the -manufacture of various toilet vinegars and washes. Acetic acid is made -in chemical laboratories by distillation of acetate of sodium with -sulphuric acid, or more commonly from wood vinegar. The buyer should -always satisfy himself that the product is free from an empyreumatic -odor which clings tenaciously to an insufficiently purified sample. - - -FATS. - -Fats find extensive application in perfumery, in the preparation of -the so-called huiles antiques, pomades, and many other cosmetics. They -should be enumerated among the chemical products used in perfumery -because they can never be employed in their commercial form, but -must undergo some process of purification, which is effected less by -mechanical than by chemical means. Commercial fats usually contain -remnants of the animal or vegetable body from which they are derived: -particles of blood and membranes occur frequently in animal fats; -cell bodies and vegetable albumin in vegetable fats. Besides these -mechanical impurities, fats, especially if old, sometimes contain -small amounts of free fatty acids which suffice to impart to them the -objectionable odor and taste peculiar to every rancid fat. While some -fats, such as bear’s grease, butter of cacao, oil of sesame, and some -others, remain free from rancidity for a long time, others undergo this -change very rapidly; in fact, we may say that every fat which shows -the slightest odor should be called rancid, for pure fat is absolutely -odorless. - -We shall here briefly describe the process employed in the fat industry -and by perfumers for the purification of fats. Animal fat, such as -lard, suet, bear’s grease, etc., as well as cocoanut and palm oils, -are introduced into a large iron boiler containing dilute soda lye -(not exceeding one per cent of caustic soda), and the lye is heated -to boiling. In the boiler is a small pump terminating above in a -curved tube having a rose of a watering-pot at the end. The pump is so -arranged as to raise lye and melted fat at the same time and to return -the fluid into the boiler in a fine spray. After the fat is melted, the -solid matters floating on top are skimmed off with a perforated spoon, -and then the pump is operated for about fifteen minutes. The contained -shreds of membrane and similar substances are completely dissolved by -the soda lye, the free fatty acids are perfectly combined, and the -fat is at the same time decolorized. After cooling, it floats on the -surface of the lye as a colorless and odorless fluid; it is ladled -off and poured into tall tapering vessels which are well closed and -preserved in cool cellars. Contact with the air, especially at higher -temperatures, causes rancidity of the fat. For every twenty pounds of -fat twenty quarts of lye are used. - -According to another process the fat is purified by being heated with -alum and table salt; or every twenty-five pounds of fat, one ounce of -alum and two ounces of salt are dissolved in five gallons of water. -The scum is carefully skimmed from the surface of the melted fat, and, -after it has solidified, the fat is washed with water until the latter -escapes perfectly tasteless and odorless. - -The washing is a very complicated and tedious piece of work. Operating -on a small scale, a slightly inclined marble slab is taken, upon which -a thin stream of water is constantly falling from a tube arranged above -it. The fat is placed on the slab in small quantities (not over two -pounds) and ground with a muller, like oil colors, under a constant -flow of water. Owing to the expense of hand labor, it is advisable to -use a so-called vertical mill or chaser. This consists of a level, -circular, horizontal marble slab, bearing a central, easily movable -axis with a crosspiece upon which two, likewise vertical, cylindrical -marble plates turn like wheels in a circle on the horizontal marble -plate. The fat is placed on the latter and continually irrigated with -water; behind every chaser is applied a marble plate with a blade which -nearly touches the chasers and returns the fat displaced laterally, -under the chasers. The axis around which the chasers run is kept moving -by any available power, and the laborer has nothing to do but to -replace the washed fat with crude. - -Liquid fats are purified as follows: - -The oil is intimately mixed with one per cent of sulphuric acid. The -mixture assumes a black color, the vegetable mucilage present in the -oil becoming carbonized. After several days’ rest the oil becomes clear -and floats on the surface of the sulphuric acid which has assumed a -black color from the presence of finely divided carbon. The oil is -decanted and treated, in the manner above stated for solid fats, with -caustic soda lye. Heating can be dispensed with if the pumping is -continued for a longer time. - -Benzoin and benzoic acid have the property of counteracting the -tendency of fats to become rancid; it is advisable, therefore, to mix -intimately with the completely washed fat a small amount of benzoic -acid, at most one-one-thousandth part by weight. - -The best way of preserving fats is by salicylic acid. This is added -to solid fats while they are in a melted state; if oils, the acid is -poured in and the bottle vigorously shaken. If the oil is in casks, -a small bag filled with salicylic acid is hung into it from the -bung-hole. The acid dissolves in the oil and is disseminated through it -and thus effects its preservation. One-one-thousandth part by weight of -the fat or oil is said to be more than sufficient to keep it perfectly -fresh for years. - -Fats differ largely in their physical properties—for instance, in -their appearance, melting-point, firmness, etc. As we shall return to -this subject in connection with the manufacture of some perfumes, it is -enough here to state briefly that by the addition of spermaceti, wax, -paraffin, etc., fats are made more transparent and firmer—a matter of -importance for some cosmetic preparations. - - -CHINESE GELATIN. - -This substance, derived from several algæ, species of Eucheuma, -indigenous to the Chinese sea, and identical with Japanese agar-agar, -on being boiled with two hundred parts of water has the property of -forming a colorless solution which solidifies on cooling. Owing to this -property the addition of a small quantity of Chinese gelatin (0·1-0·2%) -is an excellent means for imparting to certain pomades and ointments -great transparency and firmness. - - -FRUIT ETHERS - -are liquids which possess an agreeable, refreshing odor resembling -that of some fruits. For this reason they are used in confectionery, -in the manufacture of liqueurs, and also in many ways in perfumery. -Chemically, fruit ethers are combinations of an organic acid—acetic, -butyric, valerianic, etc.—with a so-called alcohol radicle such as -ethyl and amyl. Their manufacture is connected with many difficulties -and is but rarely attempted by perfumers, especially as these products -are made a specialty in some chemical laboratories and are furnished at -very low prices and of excellent quality. In perfumery the following -fruit ethers are particularly employed. - - -ACETIC ETHER, - -prepared by the distillation of acetate of sodium with alcohol and -sulphuric acid, is a colorless liquid having an odor of fermenting -apple juice, with a boiling-point at 74° C. (155° F.). - - -PINE-APPLE ETHER - -(ether or huile d’ananas) is made by the saponification of butter -with solution of potassa, distillation of the soap with alcohol -and sulphuric acid, and rectification of the distillate. It is -an inflammable liquid with an intense odor of pine-apple; its -boiling-point is 119° C. (246° F.). It is not generally used pure, as -its odor needs some correction. This is accomplished by the addition of -a little valerianate of amyl, and chloroform. Also in other ways. - - -APPLE ETHER, - -prepared by distillation from valerianate of sodium with alcohol and -sulphuric acid, and the subsequent addition of certain correctives (see -below). - - -PEAR ETHER, - -also called pear oil, chiefly valerianate of amyl oxide, can be -obtained in large quantities from a by-product in the manufacture of -potato spirit, namely, amyl alcohol, which is carefully heated in a -still with bichromate of potassium and sulphuric acid. The product thus -obtained has a very pleasant odor of fine pears and boils at 196° C. -(385° F.). But the commercial “pear-essence” is a more complex body -(see following table). - - -NITROUS ETHER - -is a very volatile liquid boiling at 16° C. (61° F.), which is obtained -by distillation of strong alcohol with concentrated nitric acid and -rectification of the distillate; it is less used in perfumery than the -other fruit ethers. - -Fruit ethers, owing to their low price and great strength, are -frequently employed in the manufacture of cheap perfumery, in place of -essential oils, but more largely for scenting soap. - -The so-called raspberry and strawberry ethers consist of mixtures of -acetic, pine-apple, apple, and other ethers (see following table), -which, combined in certain proportions, really manifest an odor nearly -akin to those of the fruits after which they are named. - - -FRUIT ETHERS (FRUIT ESSENCES). - -TABLE SHOWING THE INGREDIENTS USUALLY EMPLOYED FOR PREPARING ARTIFICIAL -FRUIT ETHERS (FRUIT ESSENCES). - - A = Peach. - B = Apricot. - C = Plum. - D = Cherry. - E = Black Cherry. - F = Lemon. - G = Pear. - H = Orange. - I = Apple. - J = Grape. - K = Gooseberry. - L = Raspberry. - M = Strawberry. - N = Melon. - O = Pine-apple. - ————————————————————————————+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+ - | A | B | C | D | E | F | G | H | I | - ————————————————————————————+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+ - Glycerin | 5 | 4 | 8 | 3 |.. | 5 |10 |10 | 4 | - Chloroform |.. | 1 |.. |.. |.. | 1 |.. | 2 | 1 | - Nitrous ether |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. | 1 |.. |.. | 1 | - Aldehyde | 2 |.. | 5 |.. |.. | 2 |.. | 2 | 2 | - Acetate of ethyl | 5 |.. | 5 | 5 |10 |10 | 5 | 5 | 1 | - Formate of ethyl | 5 |.. | 1 |.. |.. |.. |.. | 1 |.. | - Butyrate of ethyl | 5 |10 | 2 |.. |.. |.. |.. | 1 |.. | - Valerianate of ethyl | 5 | 5 |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. | - Benzoate of ethyl |.. |.. |.. | 5 | 5 |.. |.. | 1 |.. | - Œnanthate of ethyl | 5 | 1 | 4 | 1 | 2 |.. |.. |.. |.. | - Salicylate of methyl | 2 | 2 |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. | 1 |.. | - Sebacic acid | 1 |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. |10 |.. |.. | - Acetate of amyl |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. |10 |.. | - Butyrate of amyl |.. | 1 |.. |.. |.. |10 |.. |.. |10 | - Valerianate of amyl |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. | - Essence of orange |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. |10 |.. |10 |.. | - Alcohol, {Tartaric acid|.. |.. |.. |.. | 1 |.. |.. | 1 | 1 | - solutions {Oxalic acid |.. | 1 |.. |.. |.. | 1 |.. |.. |.. | - saturated in{Succinic acid|.. |.. |.. | 1 | 2 |.. |.. |.. |.. | - the cold of {Benzoic acid |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. | - ————————————————————————————+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+ - ————————————————————————————+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+ - | J | K | L | M | N | O | - ————————————————————————————+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+ - Glycerin |10 |.. | 4 | 2 | 3 | 3 | - Chloroform | 2 |.. |.. |.. |.. | 1 | - Nitrous ether |.. |.. | 1 | 1 |.. |.. | - Aldehyde | 2 | 1 | 1 |.. | 2 | 1 | - Acetate of ethyl |.. | 5 | 5 | 5 |.. |.. | - Formate of ethyl | 2 |.. | 1 | 1 | 1 |.. | - Butyrate of ethyl |.. |.. | 1 | 5 | 4 | 5 | - Valerianate of ethyl |.. |.. |.. |.. | 5 |.. | - Benzoate of ethyl |.. | 1 | 1 |.. |.. |.. | - Œnanthate of ethyl |10 | 1 | 1 |.. |.. |.. | - Salicylate of methyl | 1 |.. | 1 | 1 |.. |.. | - Sebacic acid |.. |.. | 1 |.. |10 |.. | - Acetate of amyl |.. |.. | 1 | 3 |.. |10 | - Butyrate of amyl |.. |.. |.. | 2 |.. |.. | - Valerianate of amyl |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. | - Essence of orange |.. | 5 | 5 |.. |.. |.. | - Alcohol, {Tartaric acid| 5 |.. |.. |.. |.. |.. | - solutions {Oxalic acid |.. | 1 | 1 |.. |.. |.. | - saturated in{Succinic acid| 3 | 1 |.. |.. |.. |.. | - the cold of {Benzoic acid |.. |.. | 1 |.. |.. |.. | - ————————————————————————————+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+—-—+ - - -GLYCERIN. - -This substance, which may be called a true cosmetic in itself, as it -possesses marked solvent power for cutaneous coloring matters and at -the same time imparts to the skin delicacy and flexibility, is at -present to be had commercially in great purity. Pure glycerin is a -brilliant, colorless, and odorless substance of the consistence of a -thick syrup, which mixes with water and alcohol in all proportions and -has a slightly warm but very sweet taste. It readily absorbs aromatic -substances and is used in many valued toilet articles in combination -with fats and perfumes. Recently we have succeeded in using glycerin -most successfully for the extraction of aromatic substances. - - -OIL OF MIRBANE, - -also called artificial oil of bitter almonds, nitrobenzol, and essence -of mirbane. This substance, which is now largely used in perfumery -and soap manufacture, is obtained by the action of fuming nitric acid -on benzol. The mixture becomes hot and emits masses of brown vapors, -and there is formed a yellow oily body which is washed with water and -soda solution until the washings escape colorless. Pure nitrobenzol is -not soluble in water, but in alcohol or ether, boils at 213° C. (415° -F.), and congeals at-5 to 6° C. (21-23° F.). Its spec. grav. is 1·2 -or a little over. Any oil of mirbane having a lower specific gravity -than 1·2 at 15° C. (59° F.) is spurious, most likely nitrotoluol. -Its odor greatly resembles that of oil of bitter almonds, but can be -clearly differentiated from it on comparison. Care must be taken in -inhaling the vapor when undiluted, as it is poisonous. By distillation -nitrobenzol can be obtained quite colorless, and in this form is -often used for the adulteration of genuine oil of bitter almonds. -This adulteration, however, can be easily demonstrated by heating for -a short time with an alcoholic solution of a caustic alkali which -separates from nitrobenzol a brown resinous substance, while true oil -of bitter almonds loses its odor and changes into benzoic acid which -unites with the alkali. - - -PARAFFIN. - -This substance is one of the products of the distillation of petroleum, -coal, peat, and other carbonaceous sources. It is a crystalline, -brittle body, closely resembling wax in appearance and melting between -51 and 60° C. (124 and 140° F.). Paraffin, which is now made on a large -scale for the manufacture of candles, is very useful in perfumery as -a partial substitute for the much more expensive wax or spermaceti, -over which it has the advantage, besides its cheapness, that it imparts -to the articles great transparency—a quality which is valued highly -in fine perfumeries. The addition of some paraffin to pomades renders -them more consistent and counteracts their tendency to become rancid. -Distilled paraffin always has a crystalline form, differing from -the paraffin-like residues left after the distillation of petroleum -(so-called vaselins, etc., see below) which are always amorphous. - - -PYROGALLIC ACID - -appears in commerce as a white crystalline powder, made by heating -gallic acid to 200-210° C. (392-410° F.). With iron salts, pyrogallic -acid forms bluish-black combinations and precipitates the metal from -silver solutions as a velvety-black powder. On account of these -properties pyrogallic acid is used in perfumery as a constituent of -some hair dyes. - - -SULPHIDE OF POTASSIUM, - -liver of sulphur, hepar sulphuris, potassii sulphuretum, the -pentasulphide of potassium, is obtained by fusing together potash and -sulphur, in the shape of a leather-brown mass which is soluble in water -and on exposure to the air is gradually decomposed with the development -of the offensive sulphuretted hydrogen gas; hence it should be -preserved in well-closed vessels. An aqueous solution of this substance -forms with lead or silver salts a black precipitate of sulphide of lead -or silver, and is used for some hair dyes. - - -STARCH FLOUR - -(amylum) is prepared from various vegetables such as potatoes, rice, -arrowroot, sago, etc., and when pure appears as an insoluble white -powder which the microscope shows to be grains consisting of many -superimposed layers. In commerce the price of the different varieties -of starch fluctuates greatly; in perfumery well-cleansed potato starch -can very well be used for dusting powders, and the so-called poudre de -riz; in this country, corn starch is preferable. - - -VANILLIN, - -that is, the body to which vanilla owes its fragrance, is now made -artificially and can be used in place of vanilla for soaps and pomades. - - -VASELIN. - -In the distillation of petroleum there remain in the still as a residue -large quantities of a substance which when purified is colorless and, -according to the nature of the petroleum, at ordinary temperatures has -either the consistence of lard, melting under the heat of the hand, or -forms an oily liquid. In perfumery vaselin can be used like fat or oil, -over which it has the advantage in that it always remains odorless and -free from acid; hence it is very appropriate for the manufacture of -pomades. The market affords numerous varieties of this substance, under -different names: vaselin (oil and solid), albolene (oil and solid), -cosmolin, etc., etc. - - -SPERMACETI - -is a substance found in the skull cavities of several whales and -dolphins. In its properties it stands midway between beeswax, paraffin, -and firm fats. In the living animal spermaceti is fluid, but after its -death it congeals to a white crystalline mass of a fatty lustre, which -melts at 40° C. (104° F.), and is frequently used for fine candles as -well as for other articles. - - -WAX - -(Cera alba), the well-known product of the bee; in perfumery only -bleached (white) wax is employed. In recent years Japanese wax -has appeared in commerce; this is of vegetable origin, but in its -properties resembles beeswax. - - -SUBNITRATE OF BISMUTH, - -bismuth white, pearl white, bismuthi subnitras, blanc de bismuth, -blanc de perles, the basic nitrate of bismuth, the chief ingredient -of many skin cosmetics, is prepared by dissolving metallic bismuth in -moderately strong nitric acid, and pouring the solution into a large -quantity of water, whereupon the subnitrate is precipitated. - -The precipitated powder is collected on a funnel and washed with pure -water until the wash water no longer changes blue tincture of litmus to -red. The bismuth white is dried and preserved in well-closed vessels, -since in the air it gradually assumes a yellowish color; for any -sulphuretted hydrogen present in the air is greedily absorbed by this -salt, and the resulting combination with sulphur has a black color. - - -OXIDE OF TIN - -is obtained by treating metallic tin with fuming nitric acid, adding -the solution to a large quantity of water, and washing the product, -which forms a white insoluble powder used cosmetically for polishing -the finger nails. - - * * * * * - -Besides the chemical products here enumerated, some others find -application in perfumery; we shall describe their properties in -connection with the articles into which they enter. In this connection -mention may be made of the fact that more and more aromatic substances -are now made artificially which were formerly obtained with difficulty -from plants. Besides vanillin mentioned above, cumarin, oil of -wintergreen, and some other products are prepared artificially. -Heliotropin and nerolin are artificially prepared substances, -possessing an odor resembling that of heliotrope and oil of neroli, -respectively, but not identical chemically with the natural odorous -substance. Artificial musk (Baur’s), is playing a rôle at present, but -is not identical with the natural substance. - - -C. The Colors used in Perfumery. - -Some articles are colored intentionally; this remark applies -particularly to some soaps which not rarely are stained to correspond -to the color of the flower whose odor they bear; for instance, violet -soap. Some articles again are used only on account of their color; -for instance, paints, hair and whisker dyes. As we shall discuss this -subject at greater length in connection with these toilet articles, we -merely state here that nowadays every manufacturer can choose between a -large number of dyes of any color, all of which are innoxious; hence no -perfumer should under any circumstances use poisonous colors. This is -a matter of importance with substances intended for immediate contact -with the human body such as paints, lip salves, soaps, etc. All of -these colors will be described hereafter. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -THE EXTRACTION OF ODORS. - - -Excepting the articles made in Turkey and India (especially oil of -rose), most aromatic substances are manufactured in southern France -and the adjoining regions of Italy, while a few (oils of peppermint -and lavender) are produced in England; a few also (oils of peppermint, -spearmint, wintergreen, sassafras, etc.) in the United States. However, -as we have stated above, it is possible to cultivate some plants from -which odors are extracted in the warm sections of this country, and -to obtain the most expensive perfumes from them. Among these plants -our experience leads us to suggest violets, roses, reseda, lavender, -mints, syringa, lilac, and several others to which the climate is -adapted. - -The methods by which the odors can be extracted from the plants differ -according to the physical properties of the raw material and the -chemical composition of the aromatic substance. We shall here briefly -describe the methods thus far known, and at the same time add our -own experience in this most important part of the art of perfumery. -The aromatic substances are obtained by pressure, by distillation, -by maceration (infusion), by absorption (enfleurage) through air or -through carbonic acid, and by extraction. - - -PRESSURE. - -Certain aromatic substances that occur in large amounts in some -parts of plants, are best obtained by pressure. The rinds of certain -fruits contain an essential oil in considerable quantities inclosed -in receptacles easily distinguished under the microscope. When these -vegetable substances are subjected to strong pressure, the oil -receptacles burst and the essential oil escapes. The force is usually -applied through a screw press with a stout iron spindle; the vegetable -substances being inclosed in strong linen or horse-hair cloths, placed -between iron plates, and subjected to a gradually increasing pressure. -Comparative experiments have shown us that even with the most powerful -presses a considerable, amount of oil is lost owing to the fact that a -large number of oil receptacles remain intact. For this reason, when -oil is to be extracted by pressure, a hydraulic press is preferable, -as it develops greater power than any other press. In the hydraulic -presses used for this purpose the piston fits exactly into a hollow -iron cylinder with sieve-like openings in its circumference. The -vegetable substances are filled into this cylinder; when the pressure -is applied, the fluids escape through the perforations, and the -residue forms a compact woody cake which is then free from oil. - -Besides the essential oil, watery fluid is expressed, the whole -appearing as a milky liquid, owing to the admixture of vegetable -fibres, mucilage, etc. It is collected in a tall glass cylinder which -is set in a place free from any vibration. After remaining at rest for -several hours the liquid separates into two layers, the lower being -watery and mixed with mucilage, that floating on top being almost -pure oil. The latter is separated, and finally purified by filtration -through a double paper cone in a funnel covered with a glass plate. - -[Illustration: FIG. 4.] - -It is best to separate the water and oil in a regular separatory -funnel, or in a simple apparatus illustrated in Fig. 4. It is made -by cutting the bottom from a tall flask, and fitting into the neck -by means of a cork a glass tube having a diameter of one-fourth to -one-half inch. A rubber tube with stop-cock is fastened to the glass -tube. By careful opening of the stop-cock, the watery fluid can be -drained off to the last drop. - -To the perfumer this method is of little importance, since it is -applicable only to a few substances which, moreover, give cheap odors. -Still, the possession of a hydraulic press is advisable to every -manufacturer who works on a large scale, as it is useful also in the -preparation of several fixed oils frequently employed in perfumery, for -instance, oils of almonds, nuts, etc. - -[Illustration: FIG. 5.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 6.] - -Fixed oils are best extracted in so-called drop presses, the material -having first been comminuted between rollers. These are arranged -as shown in section in Fig. 5, and in ground plan in Fig. 6. The -apparatus consists of two smooth or slightly grooved iron cylinders -A and B, respectively four feet and one foot in diameter, which can -be approximated or separated by means of set screws. The material is -placed into the trough F containing a feeding roller moved by the belt -P. The scrapers FF, pressed against the cylinders by means of weighted -levers, free the rollers from adhering pieces. - -The drop presses Figs. 7 and 8 consist of a hydraulic press with -cylinders A and piston B; the troughs E are movable by means of rings -between two vertical columns and every trough has a circular gutter _d_ -for the reception of the expressed oil. The iron pots G have double -walls, the inner of which has a series of openings at its upper part; -these pots are filled with the bruised material to be pressed and after -this has been covered with a plate of horse-hair tissue are set in the -press. - -[Illustration: FIG. 7.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 8.] - -As the piston rises, the troughs E sink into the pots, the escaping oil -collects in the gutters _d_ and thence passes into a receptacle. After -pressing, the piston is allowed to sink back, the pots G are drawn -aside (Fig. 8) to tabular surfaces, and other pots are substituted for -the exhausted ones. These drop presses are suitable for the extraction -of all fixed oils and also volatile oils present in orange and lemon -peel, etc. - - -DISTILLATION. - -Many odors or essential oils possess the remarkable property that their -vapors pass so largely with that of boiling water that they can be -extracted in this way (by “distillation”) from vegetable substances, -though the essential oils have a boiling-point far above that of water. -Distillation can be employed for a large number of substances; for -instance, the essential oils present in cumin, anise, lavender, fennel, -mace, nutmeg, etc., are extracted exclusively in this manner. - -[Illustration: FIG. 9.] - -For the extraction of odors in this way, according to the quantities of -material to be worked, different apparatuses are used, some of the most -important of which will be here described. - -For manufacturers who run without steam and are obliged to use a naked -flame, the adjoining apparatus (Fig. 9) will be advantageous. - -It consists of a copper boiler A, the still, set in a brick furnace. -The latter is so constructed that the incandescent gases strike not -only the curved bottom of the still, but also its sides through the -flues Z left in the brickwork. The still, whose upper part projects -from the furnace, has an opening O on the left side, closed air-tight -with a screw, which serves for refilling with water during distillation -when necessary. To the margin of the still is fitted steam-tight the -helm H, made of copper or tinned iron, having a prolongation, the tube -R. The latter is joined to the conical projection _v_ which terminates -in the worm K. In some apparatuses this projection is omitted and the -tube immediately joins the worm. The latter is made of tinned iron and, -as the cut shows, is arranged in coils and supported by props _t_ in -the wooden or metal condenser F. The condenser bears above a short bent -tube _b_, and below, immediately over the bottom, an elbow tube _e_, -long enough to reach above the edge of the condenser, as indicated in -the cut. - -The vegetable substances to be distilled can be put immediately into -the still and covered with water; but in this case it is advisable -to use a stirrer which must be kept moving until the water boils, -otherwise the material might burn at the bottom. But this accident can -also be prevented by applying a perforated false bottom to the still -above the flues, or by inclosing the material in a wire-sieve basket C. - -[Illustration: FIG. 10.] - -In place of the basket C the apparatus can also be provided with an -additional vessel containing the material to be distilled. In the still -A (Fig. 10) the water is brought to boiling, the steam rises through -the second still B in which the material is spread on a perforated -bottom. The steam laden with the vapors of the essential oil passes -through the tube R into the condenser. - -It is very advantageous, and in large establishments altogether -indispensable, to use steam in the distillation of essential oils. Fig. -11 represents the arrangement of such an apparatus. The still B (which -in this case may be made of stout tinned iron) stands free and is -provided with a wooden jacket M for the purpose of retaining the heat. -Immediately above the curved bottom is a perforated plate on which the -material rests. The tube D which enters the bottom of the still is -connected with the boiler which furnishes steam at moderate tension. -H is the faucet for the admission of steam; H. is the faucet by which -the water escapes from the still at the end of the operation. After the -still is filled with the material, the faucet H is opened gradually and -a continuous stream of steam is allowed to pass through the still until -the operation is finished. - -[Illustration: FIG. 11.] - -When working with an open fire, as soon as vapors appear at the lower -end of the worm (Fig. 9), cold water is admitted through the tube _ne_; -as the cold water abstracts heat from the vapors and condenses them, it -becomes warm, rises to the surface, and escapes through _b_, so that -the worm is continually surrounded with cold water. If for any reason -the saving of cold water is an object, its flow may be so regulated -that the vapors are just condensed, the warm distillate being allowed -to cool in the air. When working with steam, the cold water must be -admitted the moment the steam-cock is opened, and the flow of cold -water should be ample during the distillation, which in this case is -much shorter. - -The large apparatuses here described are generally used, especially -for the extraction from vegetable substances of odors present in -considerable quantity, for instance, mace, nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, -etc., or from bulky material as the various flowers. For very expensive -odors, smaller apparatuses are often employed, the construction of -which resembles that of the ones described. For this purpose small -glass apparatuses are very suitable; they are illustrated in Fig. 12. - -The still, a retort A, consists of a spherical vessel with a bottle -neck _t_ which is either closed with a cork or carries a thermometer -or glass tube, and with a lateral tube, the neck of the retort, -connected with the adapter _r_. The latter passes into the condenser -C. At the lower end of R is the bent adapter _v_ under which is placed -the receptacle for the distillate. The tube C is closed with corks, -at its lower end is the ascending tube _h_, and at its upper end the -descending tube _g_. During the distillation cold water flows in -through _h_ which cools the tube _r_ and escapes at _g_. The tube C, -as will be readily understood, acts like the condenser in the larger -apparatuses above described. In order to prevent the breaking of the -retort, it is not heated over a flame, but is set in a tin vessel B -filled with water. The comminuted vegetable material is inserted with -water through the up-turned neck of the retort into the latter; the -vessel B is filled with water which is raised to the boiling-point. - -[Illustration: FIG. 12.] - -During distillation we obtain at the lower end of the condenser pure -water and essential oil. When larger quantities are to be distilled -it is advisable to use a Florentine flask as a receptacle for the -separation of the oil and water (Fig. 13). It consists of a glass -bottle from the bottom of which ascends a tube curved above; the latter -rises high enough to bring the curvature slightly below the neck of the -flask. During the distillation the flask becomes filled with water W, -on which floats a layer of oil O; the excess of water escapes through -_a_ at _d_ until the flask finally contains more oil and very little -water. - -[Illustration: FIG. 13.] - -When producing essential oils on a large scale, instead of the frail -Florentine flasks it is advisable to use separators, the construction -of which is illustrated in Fig. 14. They consist of glass cylinders, -conical above and below, supported on a suitable frame. The water -accumulating under the oil is allowed to escape by opening the -stop-cock; when the first separator is filled with oil, the succeeding -distillate passes through the horizontal tube into the next separator, -etc. - -[Illustration: FIG. 14.] - -When the distillation is carried on in an ordinary still, we obtain, -besides the essential oil, a considerable quantity of aromatic water, -that is, a solution of the oil in water. - -An apparatus which obviates the losses caused thereby is that of -Schimmel described below, which is well adapted to the manufacture on a -large scale. The apparatus is patented. - -The nearly spherical still D (Fig. 15) is surrounded by a jacket M; -the inlet steam tube R is connected with a branch _r_ which enters the -interior of the still as a spiral tube with numerous perforations, -while R opens into the space M. When _r_ is opened, distillation takes -place by direct steam; when R is opened, by indirect steam; when both -faucets are opened, the still is heated at the same time with direct -and indirect steam. - -[Illustration: FIG. 15.] - -The vapors rising from the still D pass through the helm C and the tube -A into the worm K; the fluid condensed in the latter drops into the tin -Florentine flask F, the aromatic water flowing from the latter passes -back into the still D through the Welter funnel T and is distilled over -again, so that the entire distillation can be effected with very little -water, and it is continued until the water escaping from the Florentine -flask is freed from oil and odorless. - -When working with superheated steam, it is necessary to set under the -funnel tube T a vessel twice the size of the Florentine flask, which is -provided with a stop-cock above and below. The lower cock is closed, -the vessel is allowed to fill with water from F, then the upper cock is -closed, the contents being allowed to escape into D by opening, when -the cocks are again reversed. - -The use of superheated steam is important especially with material -which gives up the contained oil with difficulty, such as woods. - -[Illustration: FIG. 16.] - -For freeing the essential oil completely from water we use a so-called -separating funnel (Fig. 16). This consists of a glass funnel T resting -on a suitable support G, which is closed above with a glass plate -ground to fit, drawn out below into a fine point S, and provided with a -glass stop-cock H. The contents of the Florentine flask are poured into -the funnel which is covered with the glass plate and allowed to stand -at rest until the layer of oil O is clearly separated from the water W. -By careful opening of the stop-cock the water is allowed to escape and -the oil is immediately filled into bottles which are closed air tight -and preserved in a cool and dark place. - - -MACERATION (INFUSION). - -Some odors, like those of cassie, rose, reseda, syringa, jasmine, -violets, and many other fragrant blossoms, cannot be obtained by -distillation as completely or as sweet-scented as by the process -of maceration which is in general use among the large perfumers in -southern France. This process is based on the property of fats to -absorb odorous substances with avidity and to yield them almost -entirely to strong alcohol. According to the fat employed for the -maceration of the flowers—a solid fat like lard or a liquid like olive -oil—odorous products are obtained which are known either as pomades -or as perfumed oils (huiles antiques). By repeatedly treating fresh -flowers with the same fat the manufacturer is able to perfume the -pomade or oil at will, and in the factories these varying strengths -are designated by numbers; the higher numbers indicating the stronger -products. - -The process of maceration is very simple. The fat is put into porcelain -or enamelled iron pots which are heated, in a shallow vessel filled -with water, to 40 or at most 50° C. (104-122° F.); the flowers are -inclosed in small bags of fine linen and hung into the fat, where they -are allowed to remain for from one-half to two days. At the end of that -time the bags are removed, drained, expressed, refilled with fresh -flowers, and replaced in the fat. This procedure is repeated twelve to -sixteen times or oftener, thus producing pomades or oils of varying -fragrance. - -[Illustration: FIG. 17.] - -As the odors are much superior when the flowers are only a short -time in contact with the fat, it is better to use an apparatus for -continuous operation (Fig. 17). It consists of a box K made of tin -plate, which is divided into from five to ten compartments by vertical -septa and can be closed water tight by a lid to be screwed on. The -septa have alternate upper and lower openings. The compartments contain -each a basket of tinned wire filled with the flowers for maceration, -then the lid is closed and the box heated in a water bath to 40 or -50° C. (104-122° F.). The stop-cock H in tube R is now opened. This -admits melted fat or oil from a vessel above to the first compartment -in which it rises through the basket filled with flowers whose odor it -abstracts. The additional fat coming from above drives it over through -the opening O_{2} into compartment 2, where it comes in contact with -fresh flowers, passes through O_{3} into the third compartment, and so -on through 4 and 5, until it finally escapes through R_{1} well charged -with odor. According to requirements a larger number of compartments -may be employed. - -When all the fat has passed through the apparatus, it is opened, the -basket is removed from compartment 1, the basket from No. 2 is placed -in 1, that from 3 in 2, etc.; basket 1 is emptied, filled with fresh -flowers, and placed in compartment 5, so that every basket gradually -passes through all compartments to No. 1. In this way the fat rapidly -absorbs all the odor. - -The odorous substances are abstracted from the pomades or huiles -antiques by treatment with strong alcohol (90-95%) which dissolves the -essential oils but not the fats. The huiles antiques with the alcohol -are placed in large glass bottles and frequently shaken. In order to -abstract the odors from pomades, the latter are allowed to congeal and -are divided into small pieces which are inserted into the bottles of -alcohol. A better plan is to fill the pomades into a tin cylinder with -a narrow opening in front and to express the pomades, by a well-fitting -piston, in the shape of a thin thread which thus presents a large -surface to the action of the alcohol, thus hastening the absorption -of the odor. The alcoholic solution obtained after some weeks is then -distilled off at a low temperature. We shall recur to this hereafter. - -No matter how long the fats are left in contact with alcohol, they do -not yield up to it all the odor, but retain a small portion of it and -hence have a very fragrant smell. They are, therefore, brought into -commerce as perfumed oils or pomades bearing the name of the odorous -substance they contain: orange flower, reseda pomade or oil, etc.; they -are highly prized and are sometimes used again for the extraction of -the same odor. - -Some odors cannot bear even the slight rise of temperature necessary -for their extraction by the method of maceration or infusion. For these -delicate odors one of the following methods may be employed. - - -ABSORPTION OR ENFLEURAGE. - -In this method the absorbing power of fat is likewise used for -retaining the odors, but the flowers are treated with the fat at -ordinary temperatures. This procedure which is employed especially in -southern France is carried out as follows. The fat (lard) is spread to -a thickness of about one-quarter inch on glass plates G one yard long -and two feet wide, which are inserted in wooden frames R and sprinkled -with flowers F (Fig. 18). The frames are superimposed (the cut shows -two of the frames) and left for from one to three days, when fresh -flowers are substituted for the wilted ones, and so on until the pomade -has attained the desired strength. - -[Illustration: FIG. 18.] - -This procedure is very cumbrous and tedious and therefore had better be -modified thus: In an air-tight box K (Fig. 19) we place a larger number -of glass plates _g_ covered with lard drawn into fine threads by means -of a syringe. This box is connected with a smaller one K_{1} which is -filled with fresh flowers and provided with openings below and above, -O and O_{1}. The latter, O_{1} communicates by a tube with box K, at -whose upper end is a tube _e_ terminating in an exhaust fan so that the -air must pass through the apparatus in the direction indicated by the -arrows. A small fan V driven by clockwork will answer. The air drawn -from K_{1} is laden with odors and in passing over the fat as shown -by the arrows gives them up completely to the fat. The use of this -apparatus has very important advantages: the absorption is effected -rapidly, requires little power, and the flowers do not come at all into -contact with the fat which therefore can take up nothing but the odors -present in the air. - -[Illustration: FIG. 19.] - -Instead of charging the fat with odors by either one of the methods -here described, carbonic acid can also be employed with advantage, by -means of the apparatus illustrated in Fig. 20. The large glass vessel -G contains pieces of white marble M upon which hydrochloric acid is -poured at intervals through the funnel tube R. A current of carbonic -acid is thus developed, which passes through a wash bottle W filled -with water, then through the tin vessel B containing fresh flowers, -and finally into a bottle A filled with strong alcohol and set in cold -water, after which it escapes through the tube _e_. The carbonic acid -absorbs the aromatic vapors from B and leaves them in the alcohol which -absorbs them. (G, R, W are made of glass, B of tin.) - -[Illustration: FIG. 20.] - - -EXTRACTION. - -This method is based on the fact that some volatile liquids such as -ether, chloroform, petroleum ether, or bisulphide of carbon possess the -property of rapidly extracting the aromatic substances from flowers; -when they are evaporated at a gentle heat they leave the pure odors -behind. In our opinion this process is the best of all for the perfumer -and it is to be regretted that it is not more generally used. - -As a rule we employ either petroleum ether or bisulphide of carbon (see -above, pp. 65, 66) because these products are cheaper than ether or -chloroform. - -The apparatus we use for this purpose is illustrated in Fig. 21. It -consists of a cylinder C made of tinned iron, which is provided above -with a circular gutter R terminating in a stop-cock _h_ and which -can be closed by a lid D bearing a stop-cock _o_. A tube _b_ with a -stop-cock _a_ enters the bottom of the cylinder. The latter is filled -with the flowers, the volatile liquid (petroleum ether, bisulphide -of carbon, etc.) is poured over them, the lid is put on, and the -gutter R filled with water, thereby sealing the contents of the vessel -hermetically. - -After the extraction, which requires about thirty to forty minutes, -stop-cock _o_ is opened first, then stop-cock _a_, and the liquid -is allowed to escape into the retort of the still (Fig. 12). If the -extraction is to be repeated, the water is allowed to escape from the -gutter through _h_, the lid is opened, and the solvent is again poured -over the flowers. - -For operation on a larger scale the glass retorts are too small and -should be replaced by tin vessels (Fig. 22) having the form of a -wide-mouthed bottle F; they are closed by a lid D which is rendered -air tight by being clamped upon the flange of the vessel (R) with iron -screws S, a pasteboard washer being interposed; a curved glass tube -connects the apparatus with the condenser of Fig. 12. - -[Illustration: FIG. 21.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 22.] - -The solutions of the aromatic substances are evaporated in these -apparatuses at the lowest possible temperature, the solvent being -condensed and used over again. The heat required is for ether about -36° C. (97° F.), for chloroform about 65° C. (149° F.), for petroleum -ether about 56° C. (133° F.), and for bisulphide of carbon about 45° C. -(113° F.). If it is desired to obtain the aromatic substances pure from -an alcoholic extract of the pomades made by one of the above-described -processes—which is rarely done since these solutions are generally -used as such for perfumes—a heat of 75 to 80 C. (167 to 176° F.) is -required. - -Another extraction apparatus illustrated in Fig. 23 is well adapted to -operations on a large scale. Its main parts are the extractor E and the -still B. The former is set in a vat W continually supplied with cold -water. The still B is surrounded with hot water in the boiler K. - -To start the apparatus the cone C is removed, the vessel E is filled -with the material to be extracted, and C is replaced. The faucets H_{2} -and H_{4} are opened, the solvent is poured into the still through the -latter, when these faucets are closed and those marked H and H_{1} are -opened. - -[Illustration: FIG. 23.] - -The water in K is heated until the contents of B are in brisk -ebullition; the vapor rises through RH, is condensed on entering E and -falls in small drops on the material. This fine rain of the solvent -dissolves the aromatic substances and flows back into B, where it is -again evaporated, and so on. - -At the end of the extraction the faucets H and H_{1} are closed and -H_{2}, is opened. The vapors of the solvent pass through it into a worm -where they are condensed; the essential oil remaining in B is drained -off by opening H_{3}. - -For still larger operations more perfect apparatuses are employed, -such as those of Seiffert and Vohl. Seiffert’s apparatus (Fig. 24) -consists of a battery of jacketed cylinders; steam circulates in the -space between the cylinders and the jackets. Each cylinder contains a -plate covered with a wire net on which the flowers to be extracted are -placed. All the cylinders having been filled and closed, the solvent is -admitted from a container above, through S and _a_ into C^2; when this -is filled the liquid flows through _a_^2_b_^3_c_^n into C. The solution -saturated with essential oil leaves the apparatus through _d_^n and -_p_ and enters a reservoir. The course of the liquid is aided by the -suction of an air-pump acting on _p_. - -When the reservoir contains an amount of fluid equal to that in C^n, -_d_^n is closed, _a_^n is opened, and C connected with C^1 through -_b_^n and _c_^1. That the contents of C^2 are completely extracted is -shown by the fact that the liquid appears colorless in the glass tube -inserted in _b_^2; _a_^1 and C^2 are closed; _a_^2 and C^3 are opened, -thereby excluding C^2 from the current of bisulphide of carbon which -then flows through C^3C^nC^1. In order to permit the free flow of -the bisulphide of carbon through S despite the exclusion of C^2, the -faucets _a_^1_a_^2_a_^3_a_^n must be two-way cocks; in one position -they connect S with _b_; in the other they close _b_ and leave the -passage through S open. - -[Illustration: FIG. 24.] - -In order to collect the bisulphide of carbon present in the extracted -residue in C^2, faucet _g_^2 is opened and the bisulphide of carbon -allowed to escape through _h_. The faucet _e_^2 in tube L on being -opened admits compressed air to C^2, thus hastening the outflow. If -nothing escapes below, faucets _f_^2 and _f_^x are opened, steam enters -through tube D between jacket and cylinder; the bisulphide of carbon -vapor passes through _g_^2 and _h_ into the worm. After the expulsion -of the bisulphide of carbon, C^3 is emptied, refilled, connected with -C^1, and bisulphide of carbon admitted from C^3 in the manner above -described. - -An extraction apparatus which has been much recommended of late is the -so-called “Excelsior Apparatus” made by Wegelin and Huebner, Halle a. -S., which can be worked with any desired solvent. The construction of -the apparatus (Figs. 25 and 26) is as follows. - -[Illustration: FIG. 25.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 26.] - -The solvent is admitted to the reservoir R in the lower part of the -condenser B through the tube indicated in the figure. The material -to be extracted having been filled into the cylinder A through the -manhole, the apparatus is closed. The cold water is admitted to the -condenser by opening a faucet. The three-way cock shown in Fig. 25 is -so placed as to open a communication of the overflow tube with A. The -faucet at the lower end of the reservoir R is now opened sufficiently -and the solvent passes into A from above, and as it descends takes -up more and more oil, flows through the sieve-plate, and escapes -through the tube at the bottom of A through the three-way cock, the -overflow tube, and the drain tube into the accumulator C. The opening -of a faucet now admits steam to the heating coil, when the solvent -evaporates, leaving the oil or fat behind. It is condensed in B, -again returns to R, whence it passes once more through the faucet -into the extractor A. The vessel C and the tubes leading to A and C -are surrounded with felt to prevent loss of heat. A sample taken from -the small cock at the foot of A (it has a small plate in the interior -of the tube) will show when the extraction in A may be looked upon as -finished. The solvent is distilled off or recovered from the residue -in A in the following manner. First the faucet in R is closed. The -three-way cock A is set to establish direct communication between A and -C, thus cutting off the overflow tube. Hence all the solvent in A flows -into C for distillation, while the oil is left behind. Steam being -admitted to the residue, the solvent rises as vapor through the upper -tube from A to B and collects in a liquid state in R. To drive off the -last traces of the solvent from the fat or oil obtained, steam is blown -into C by opening the valve. Besides the solvent, watery vapor enters B -and forms a layer of water in R under the solvent. By taking a sample -from the test-cock of the reservoir C which has an internal small -plate, the termination of the process is ascertained. The gauge tube at -the reservoir shows the level of the solvent and water. The water is -drawn off by opening the faucet at the lower end of the reservoir. A is -emptied through the manhole and by draining the oil from C through the -discharge cock. The tube R is closed by a light valve so as to prevent -evaporation of the solvent. All the apparatuses work without pressure -so that there is no danger from overstrain. - -[Illustration: FIG. 27.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 28.] - -The solutions of the essential oils in bisulphide of carbon are -distilled off in the steam still illustrated in Fig. 27; the steam -enters at _h_, the water of condensation escapes at _d_, the liquid -to be distilled enters at _e_ from a container at a higher level. The -boiling is kept uniform by the stirring arrangement _hg_. After the -bisulphide of carbon is distilled off, air is passed through the oil by -the curved tube _a_ which has fine perforations, so as to evaporate the -last traces of the solvent. - -In Vohl’s apparatus (Fig. 28), arranged for petroleum ether, the -extraction is effected with the boiling fluid; hence this apparatus -is better adapted for the cheaper oils than for the finest oils from -flowers. The apparatus consists of two extractors A A, the accumulator -B, and the condenser C. Petroleum ether is allowed to flow over the -substances to be extracted, by opening the faucets _mm_, _vh_, closing -_ogw_E, and opening _o_, the course being through _ux_ to B. When B -is two-thirds full, the flow of petroleum ether is cut off, steam -is admitted through _y_ and the contents of B are brought to the -boiling-point. The vapors pass through _g_ and are condensed in _f_ -until the contents of A reach the boiling-point of the solvent, when -the vapors pass through _i_ into C, and after closing _m´_ the liquid -passes through _ml_ into the inner cylinder of the extraction apparatus -and returns through _uxx_. - -After the contents of A are extracted, _m´_ is opened, _m_ closed, and -steam is admitted through _d_ into the jacket of A; the vapors of the -solvent force the liquid part of the contents through _ux_ into B. -Overfilling of B is prevented by allowing the vapors of the solvent to -escape at the proper time into the condenser through _p_ by opening -_q_. Then _v_ is closed, _q_ opened, and the steam present in A drawn -off by an exhaust applied to _p_; as soon as _p_ begins to cool, all -the petroleum ether is distilled off, the steam is cut off at _d_, and -the extract evacuated through _t_. The contents of B are brought into a -still through D and E. - -[Illustration: FIG. 29.] - -By employing greater pressure the extraction can also be effected by -what is called displacement; the material to be extracted is placed -in a stout-walled vessel S (Fig. 29) which is connected by a narrow -tube at least ten yards long with the vessel F containing the solvent. -Stopcock H is first opened, then stop-cock H_{1} which is closed as -soon as fluid begins to flow from it. After the liquid has remained in -contact with the material for from thirty to sixty minutes, H_{1} is -opened very slowly, the liquid is allowed to escape and is displaced -with water which is made to pass out of F in the same way as the -solvent, until the latter is completely displaced from S. - -After the solvent has been distilled off, the less volatile essential -oil remains in the still almost pure, containing only traces of wax, -vegetable fat or coloring matter which are of no consequence for our -purposes. The last remnants of the solvent cannot be expelled by -distillation, but by forcing through the essential oil a current of -pure air for fifteen or twenty minutes. The essential oils then are of -the purest, unexceptionable quality. - -[Illustration: FIG. 30.] - -In the case of delicate oils it is better to use carbonic acid in place -of air for expelling the last traces of the solvent, as the oxygen -may impair the delicacy of the fragrance. For this purpose we use the -apparatus illustrated in Fig. 30. In the large bottle A carbonic acid -is generated by pouring hydrochloric acid over fragments of white -marble. The carbonic acid passes into the vessel B filled with water -which frees it from any adhering drops of hydrochloric acid; then into -C filled with sulphuric acid to which it yields its water so that only -pure carbonic acid escapes through the fine rose at the end of tube -D which is made of pure tin, and as it passes through the oil in E -it carries off the last traces of the volatile solvent. In its final -passage through the water in F it leaves behind any oil that may have -been carried with it. - -As all the aromatic substances change in air by the gradual absorption -of oxygen, and lose their odor—become resinified—these costly -substances must be put into small bottles which they completely -fill, and be preserved in a cool dark place, as light and heat favor -resinification. The bottles must be closed with well-fitting glass -stoppers. - -Aromatic waters or eaux aromatisées, such as jasmine water (eau de -jasmin), orange-flower water (eau de fleurs d’oranges, eau triple de -Néroli, aqua naphæ triplex), etc., are made by distillation of these -flowers with water and show a faint but very fine odor. When they -contain, besides, dilute alcohol they are called spirituous waters -or esprits. Those brought into commerce from southern France are of -excellent quality. - - -THE YIELD OF ESSENTIAL OILS. - -The quantities of essential oil obtainable from the vegetable -substances vary with the amount present in each. The following table -shows the average quantities of oil to be obtained from 100 parts of -material. - - Material. Name of Plant. Mean Yield - per 100 Parts. - Ajowan seed Ptychotis Ajowan 3·000 - Alant root Inula Helenium 0·600 - Allspice Myrtus Pimenta 3·500 - Almonds, bitter Amygdala amara 0·400-0·700 - Angelica seed Archangelica officinalis 1·150 - Angelica root, Thuring. " " 0·750 - " " Saxon " " 1·000 - Anise seed, Russian Pimpinella Anisum 2·800 - " " Thuring. " " 2·400 - " " Morav. " " 2·600 - Anise seed, Chili Pimpinella Anisum 2·400 - " " Spanish " " 3·000 - " " Levant " " 1·300 - Anise chaff " " 0·666 - Arnica flowers Arnica montana 0·040 - Arnica root " " 1·100 - Asafœtida Ferula Asafœtida 3·250 - Avens root Geum urbanum 0·040 - Basilicum herb, fresh Ocymum basilicum 0·040 - Bay leaves Pimenta acris 2·300-2·600 - Bear’s berry Uva ursi 1·010 - Beech tar Betula alba 20·000 - Bergamots ab. 3·400 - Betel leaves Piper Betle 0·550 - Bitter almond meal Amygdala amara 0·950 - Buchu leaves Barosma crenulata 2·600 - Butter-bur oil Tussilago Petasites 0·056 - Calamus root Acorus Calamus 2·800 - Camomile, German Matricaria Chamomilla 4·000-6·000 - " Roman Anthemis nobilis 3·000 - Caraway seed, - Cult. German Carum Carvi 4·000 - " Dutch " " 5·500 - " East Prussian " " 5·000 - " Moravian " " 5·000 - Wild German " " 6·000-7·000 - " Norwegian " " 6·000-6·500 - " Russian " " 3·000 - Cardamoms, Ceylon Elettaria Cardamomum 4·250 - " Madras " " 4·300 - " Malabar " " 1·750 - " Siam " " 1·350 - Carrot seed Daucus Carota 1·650 - Cascarilla bark Croton Eluteria 1·500 - Cassia flowers Cinnamomum Cassia 3·500 - Cassia wood " " 0·285 - Cedar wood Juniperus virginianus 0·700-1·000 - Celery herb Apium graveolens 0·200 - Celery seed " " 0·300 - Chekan leaves Myrtus Chekan 1·000 - Cinnamon, Ceylon Cinnamomum zeylanicum 0·900-1·250 - " white Canella alba 1·000 - Cloves, Amboina Caryophyllus aromaticus 19·000 - " Bourbon " " 18·000 - " Zanzibar " " 17·500 - " stems " " 6·000 - Common wormwood herb Artemisia Abrotanum 0·040 - " " root " " 0·100 - Copaiva balsam, Para Copaifera officinalis 45·000 - " " East Ind. Dipterocarpus turbinatus 65·000 - Coriander seed, - Thuringian Coriandrum sativum 0·800 - Russian " " 0·900 - Dutch " " 0·600 - East Indian " " 0·150 - Italian " " 0·700 - Mogadore " " 0·600 - Crisp mint herb Mentha crispa 1·000 - Cubebs Piper Cubeba 12·000-16·000 - Culilaban bark Laurus Culilavan 3·400 - Cumin seed, Mogadore Cuminum Cyminum 3·000 - " " Maltese " " 3·900 - " " Syrian " " 4·200 - " " East Indian " " 2·250 - Curcuma root Curcuma longa 5·200 - Dill seed, German Anethum graveolens 3·800 - " " Russian " " 4·000 - " " East Indian Anethum Sowa 2·000 - Elder flowers Sambucus niger 0·025 - Elemi resin Icica Abilo 17·000 - Eucalyptus leaves, dry Eucalyptus globulus 3·000 - Fennel seed, - Saxon Foeniculum vulgare 5·000-5·600 - Galician " " 6·000 - East Indian Foeniculum Panmorium 2·200 - Galanga root Alpinia Galanga 0·750 - Galbanum resin Galbanum officinale 6·500 - Geranium Pelargonium odoratissimum 0·115 - Ginger root, - African Zingiber officinale 2·600 - Bengal " " 2·000 - Japan " " 1·800 - Cochin China " " 1·900 - Hazel root Asarum europæum 1·100 - Heracleum seed Heracleum Sphondylium 1·000 - Hop flowers Humulus Lupulus 0·700 - Hop meal, lupulin " " 2·250 - Hyssop herb Hyssopa officinalis 0·400 - Iva herb Iva moschata 0·400 - Juniper berries, - German Juniperus communis 0·500-0·700 - Italian " " 1·100-1·200 - Hungarian " " 1·000-1·100 - Laurel berries Laurus nobilis 1·000 - Laurel leaves " " 2·400 - Laurel, Californian Oreodaphne californica 7·600 - Lavender flowers, - German Lavandula vera 2·900 - Linaloe wood Elaphrium graveolens 5·000 - Lovage root Levisticum officinale 0·600 - Mace Myristica fragrans 11·000-16·000 - Marjoram herb, fresh Origanum Majorana 0·350 - " " dry " " 0·900 - Marsh-rosemary oil Ledum palustre 0·350 - Massoy bark Massoia aromatica - Masterwort root Imperatoria Ostruthium 0·800 - Matico leaves Piper angustifolium 2·400 - Matricaria herb Matricaria Parthenium 0·030 - Melissa herb Melissa officinalis 0·100 - Michelia bark Michelia nilagirica 0·300 - Milfoil herb Achillea Millefolium 0·080 - Musk seed Hibiscus Abelmoschus 0·200 - Mustard seed, - Dutch Sinapis nigra 0·850 - German " " 0·750 - East Indian " " 0·590 - Pugliese " " 0·750 - Mustard seed, Russian Sinapis juncea 0·500 - Myrrh Balsamodendron Myrrha 2·500-6·500 - Myrtle Myrtus communis 0·275 - Nigella seed Nigella sativa 0·300 - Nutmegs Myristica fragrans 8·000-10·000 - Olibanum resin Boswellia, var. spec 6·300 - Opoponax resin Pastinaca Opoponax 6·500 - Orange peel, sweet Citrus Aurantium 2·500 - Orris root Iris florentina 0·200 - Parsley herb Apium Petroselinum 0·300 - Parsley seed " " 3·000 - Parsnip seed Pastinaca sativa 2·400 - Patchouly herb Pogostemon Patchouly 1·500-4·000 - Peach kernels Amygdalus persica 0·800-1·000 - Pellitory root Valeriana celtia 1·000 - Pepper, black Piper nigrum 2·200 - Peppermint, fresh Mentha piperita 0·300 - Peppermint, dry " " 1·000-1·250 - Peru balsam Toluifera Pereiræ 0·400 - Pimpernel root Pimpinella saxifraga 0·025 - Poplar sprouts Populus niger 0·500 - Rhodium wood Convolvulus Scoparius 0·050 - Rose flowers, fresh Rosa centifolia 0·050 - Rosemary Rosmarinus officinalis 1·550 - Rue herb Ruta graveolens 0·180 - Sage herb, German Salvia officinalis 1·400 - " " Italian " " 1·700 - Santal wood, - East Indian Santalum album 4·500 - Macassar " " 2·500 - West Indian Unknown 2·700 - Sassafras wood Sassafras officinalis 2·600 - Savin herb Juniperus Sabina 3·750 - Snakeroot, Canadian Asarum canadense 2·800-3·250 - " Virginian Aristolochia Serpentaria 2·000 - Star-anise, Chinese Illicium anisatum 5·000 - " Japanese Illicium religiosum 1·000 - Storax Liquidambar orientalis 1·000 - Sumbul root Ferula Sumbul 0·300 - Tansy herb Tanacetum vulgare 0·150 - Thyme Thymus Serpyllum 0·200 - " dry " " 0·100 - Valerian root, German Valeriana officinalis 0·950 - " " Dutch " " 1·000 - " " Japan Patrinia scabiosæfolia - Vetiver root Andropogon muricatus 0·200-0·350 - Violet flowers Viola odorata 0·030 - Water-yarrow seed Phellandrium aquaticum 1·300 - Wintersweet marjoram Origanum creticum 3·500 - Worm seed Artemisia maritima 2·000 - Wormwood herb Artemisia Absinthium 0·300-0·400 - Zedoary root Curcuma Zedoaria 1·300 - -Fresh flowers as a rule contain more aromatic material than wilted -ones; the yield of dried herbs, leaves, etc., is usually greater than -that of the fresh, because the latter contain much water which is -lost in drying. When such vegetable materials cannot be worked fresh, -which is best, they should be completely dried, spread on boards, at -a moderate temperature in the shade and preserved in dry airy rooms, -special care being had to guard against mould. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -THE SPECIAL CHARACTERISTICS OF AROMATIC SUBSTANCES. - - -In a preceding chapter on the chemical properties of the vegetable -substances many of their characteristics have been described. In this -place we need only describe the physical properties of the essential -oils, and with some of them to lay stress on those peculiarities by -which they are specially differentiated. This knowledge is of the -greatest importance to the manufacturer of perfumery because no -single individual is in a position to prepare all aromatic substances -himself, but must rely on commerce for some of them; and in no group of -chemicals is adulteration as frequent and as difficult of demonstration -as among the aromatics. These adulterations are carried so far that -many essential oils occurring in commerce under certain names often -have nothing in common with the substance for which they are sold but -the name. - - -OIL OF CASSIE. - -The oil of Acacia farnesiana is greenish-yellow and viscid; the density -and boiling-point, which are of the greatest importance with reference -to the genuineness of an essential oil, are not yet accurately known. -Moreover, this oil never occurs in commerce as such, but its odor is -present in perfumes, fixed oils, and pomades. - - -OIL OF ANISE - -should be colorless or faintly yellow; a dark yellow color indicates -old and inferior quality. The characteristics of this oil are the odor, -its aromatic sweet taste, and especially the property of solidifying -at a comparatively high temperature, 10-15° C. (50-59° F.), which -is due to the separation of a stearopten, anethol. Oil of anise is -frequently adulterated with or replaced by oil of star-anise. The easy -solidification of the oil of anise is not always proof of its good -quality, for the oil from anise chaff, which congeals at a still higher -temperature, is sometimes mixed with it, and this has a less fine odor -than that distilled from the seed. One part by weight of oil of anise -is soluble in an equal weight of alcohol of 94%. - - -OIL OF BERGAMOT - -has a pale yellow color which becomes greenish when the oil is kept in -copper vessels, and a strong agreeable odor. This oil requires the -greatest care in its preservation, as it abstracts oxygen from the air -with extreme rapidity, when it changes its superior odor so that it can -hardly be distinguished from oil of turpentine. - - -OIL OF BITTER ALMOND (OLEUM AMYGDALE AMARÆ), - -when pure, is a colorless, refractive liquid which is heavier than -water. The vessels in which this product is preserved must be stoppered -air-tight, for in the air the oil very quickly changes into a white, -odorless mass of crystals consisting of benzoic acid. - -Oil of bitter almond is formed by the action of the amygdalin upon the -emulsin present in the fruit, bitter-almond meal being deprived of -fat and left in contact with water for some hours at from 40-45° C. -(104-113° F.). Besides oil of bitter almond, sugar and prussic acid are -likewise formed. The crude oil distilled from the meal is freed from -the prussic acid by agitation with ferrous chloride and lime-water, and -redistillation. - - -OIL OF CAJEPUT (OLEUM CAJUPUTI) - -has usually a greenish color, and has a burning, camphoraceous and at -the same time cooling taste. It has a peculiar odor resembling that of -camphor and rosemary. - - -OIL OF CALAMUS (OLEUM CALAMI). - -This oil, which is very viscid and of a yellow or reddish color, must -usually be mixed with other essential oils in order to furnish pleasant -perfumes. - - -OIL OF CHAMOMILE (OLEUM CHAMOMILLÆ). - -Oil of chamomile, from Matricaria Chamomilla (common chamomile), which -is specially characterized by its magnificent dark-blue color, has a -marked narcotic odor and is very high-priced, owing to the small yield -of oil by the flowers. The oil from Anthemis nobilis (Roman chamomile) -has also a blue color which gradually becomes greenish-yellow. - - -CAMPHOR (CAMPHORA). - -This essential oil differs from the others mainly by being firm and -crystalline at ordinary temperatures. Chinese or Japanese camphor melts -at 175° C. (347° F.) and boils at 205° C. (401° F.). Camphor is seldom -used alone, as its odor is hardly fragrant; but it finds frequent -application in the preparation of mouth washes, toilet vinegars, etc. -In commerce so-called Borneo camphor is also met with (though rarely), -which closely resembles the Chinese in appearance and other qualities, -but is more friable and melts at 189° C. (388·4° F.). - - -OIL OF CASCARILLA - -is not used pure in perfumery, the bark being generally employed -instead. - - -OIL OF CASSIA (OLEUM CASSIÆ) - -has a yellow color, gradually becoming dark reddish-brown, and an odor -resembling that of oil of cinnamon, but the odor is not so fine, nor -so strong, as that of the latter. The taste of the oil is of special -importance: while that of true oil of cinnamon is burning though sweet, -oil of cassia has a sharper taste, and this taste is considered by some -a good mark of recognition of the rather common adulteration of true -oil of cinnamon which is much more costly. - - -OIL OF CEDAR. - -This oil, obtained from the wood of the Juniperus virginiana (not from -the true cedar, Cedrus Libani), is clear like water, has a pleasant -odor, and differs from most essential oils by congealing at a very low -temperature (-22° C. or-8° F.) and by its uncommon resinification in -contact with air. - - -OIL OF CITRON. - -Oil of citron is usually merely a synonym for “oil of lemon.” But in -perfumery it has been customary to designate the oil of lemon which was -extracted by the écuelle process, as “oil of citron-zeste” or “oil of -citron,” while “oil of lemon” meant the distilled oil. Since there is -no difficulty at the present time in obtaining all the hand-pressed oil -that may be required, and of the finest quality, there is no longer any -necessity for making the before-mentioned distinction. - - -OIL OF LEMON (OLEUM LIMONIS, OLEUM CITRI) - -is one of the most important essential oils for the perfumer as well -as the manufacturer of liqueurs, confectioner, etc. The oil is pale -yellow, and of a very strong refreshing odor which it loses rapidly -in contact with the air, when it acquires a disagreeable odor of -turpentine and gradually resinifies. This change is particularly marked -under the influence of light. Its spec. grav. is 0·850 at 20° C. (68° -F.). It is soluble in an equal volume of strong alcohol or glacial -acetic acid. The hand-pressed oil has a much finer aroma than that -obtained by distillation. - - -OIL OF CITRONELLA. - -This oil is hardly ever made in Europe, since it is imported in -excellent quality and at low prices from India and especially the -island of Ceylon. (See above, p. 29.) - - -OIL OF LEMON-GRASS. - -This oil, which is imported in considerable quantities from India -(chiefly Ceylon), is colorless and possesses a very pleasant odor of -lemon which at the same time recalls that of roses and still more that -of geranium, which is not rarely adulterated with it. (See above, p. -33.) - - -OIL OF CORIANDER (OLEUM CORIANDRI) - -has a pale yellow color and a burning, sharp, aromatic taste. Like -oil of cubebs (oleum cubebæ), oil of dill (oleum anethi), and oil of -fennel (oleum fœniculi) which latter also has a rather low congealing -point (-8° C. or +17° F.), this oil is used less in perfumery than -for scenting soap and in the manufacture of liqueurs. But it should -be noted that these oils, as well as those of bergamot, caraway, -star-anise, and some others, could well be employed for cheap perfumes -and for scenting soap. Oil of dill also finds application alone in the -preparation of some face washes, and the dried fennel herb in cheap -sachets. - - -OIL OF LILAC - -can be made at slight cost from the flowers, as the raw material is -obtainable without much trouble; it forms a yellow, strong-scented oil. -In perfumery, however, use is generally made only of the pomade made -from the fresh flowers or the alcoholic extract prepared from it. Or -else the odor is imitated by means of terpineol, which is now on the -market under the name of lilacin. - - -OIL OF GERANIUM. - -It is necessary to distinguish clearly between oil of true geranium -distilled in Southern France and Algiers from species of Pelargonium; -and Turkish oil of geranium, also known as Palmarosa oil, oil of -geranium grass, oil of Rusa grass, etc., which is distilled in India -from ginger grass. (See above, p. 33.) - -The first-mentioned oil has a much finer aroma than the second. The two -oils are frequently confounded, even in prominent works of reference. - -When oil of geranium or of rose geranium is directed to be used, the -French (or Algerian, or Spanish) oil should be employed. These cost -more than twice as much as the so-called Turkish or palmarosa oil. - - -OIL OF HELIOTROPE. - -This oil which does not yet occur in commerce (we find merely the -pomade and the alcoholic extract of the latter) has been made by -the author experimentally; the most suitable method was found to be -extraction with petroleum ether. As the plant, Heliotropium peruvianum, -the source of this delightful odor, is frequently cultivated in -our gardens, the preparation of the oil by this method is to be -recommended, being less expensive and more rapid than by the use of -fat, while the product obtained with petroleum ether is as fine as that -extracted by alcohol from the pomade. - - -OIL OF ELDER (OLEUM SAMBUCI). - -The remark made under the head of oil of lilac applies equally to this -oil. For the benefit of those who wish to make this oil in its pure -form we may add that it is absolutely necessary to select only the -freshest flowers, otherwise the odor will be very much impaired. - - -OIL OF JASMINE, - -not to be confounded with the oil of Syringa or German jasmine -(Philadelphus coronarius), is colorless or yellowish and has a very -strong, almost narcotic odor. It is one of the most valuable and at the -same time most expensive aromatic substances employed in perfumery. -Genuine oil of jasmine can be obtained only from Southern France at -very high prices. What is usually sold as “oil of jasmine” is a fixed -oil impregnated with the aroma of jasmine. - - -OIL OF CHERRY-LAUREL - -is not used as such in perfumery; at most cherry-laurel water may be -employed. But as this has the odor of oil of bitter almond and as -the presence of some prussic acid, on account of which the officinal -cherry-laurel water is used, is of no value to the perfumer and is, -in fact, undesirable, owing to its poisonous quality, we substitute -in all cases a corresponding quantity of oil of bitter almond for -cherry-laurel water. - - -OIL OF CULILABAN (OLEUM CULILAVANI) - -is light brown, somewhat viscid; the odor recalls that of the oils of -cinnamon, sassafras, and clove. It has been used for scenting soap. - - -OIL OF CARAWAY (OLEUM CARI) - -is light yellow and has an aromatic odor and burning taste. In -perfumery it is used only for very cheap odors and for scenting soap; -it finds its chief application in the manufacture of liqueurs. - - -OIL OF LAVENDER (OLEUM LAVANDULÆ). - -This oil is of great importance to the perfumer and is imported in -unsurpassed quality from England (Mitcham); it is light yellow, has a -burning sharp taste, and is exceedingly sensitive to light and air, -under the action of which it loses its refreshing odor in a very brief -time and acquires a common smell recalling that of turpentine. - -The buyer of this oil should take care to secure the true oil of -lavender (from Lavandula vera); for the oil of spike-lavender is sold -under the same name. This, prepared from Lavandula Spica, has a similar -odor to the genuine, but cannot be compared with it in delicacy. For -this reason, too, the difference in the price between the two is -considerable. True English oil of lavender costs ten times as much -as oil of spike-lavender. The English brand of the true oil is of so -excellent a quality that it brings four or five times as much as the -best French oil, which is sold under the name of huile de lavande des -Alpes. Yet during the last decade or so the French oil of lavender -flowers has become so much improved in quality that it has become a -serious rival to the Mitcham oil. - - -OIL OF WALLFLOWER - -made from the flowers of the well-known garden plant, and - - -OIL OF LILY - -likewise from the ornamental plant, are, strange to say, not -manufactured in any place, to our knowledge. Experiments made by us in -this direction prove that the odors of these plants can be obtained -either by absorption or, more readily, by extraction. The perfumes thus -far occurring under these names are always combinations of different -scents which, though pleasant, have but little in common with the -plants whose names they bear. - -In this connection we may say that the perfumes sold under the names -of various flowers often have no relation to them, but are mixtures -of various odors. While it cannot be denied that perfumes may be made -in this manner which resemble those of the respective plants, it is -unquestionably an imperfection in the art of perfumery that these -odors are not really made from the flowers mentioned. To give another -characteristic instance, we may add that the delightful odor of the -well-known lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis)—a plant which grows -wild abundantly in many of our forests—has not yet been produced, and -that even imitations of this odor, which in delicacy and fragrance -stands next to those of the rose and violet, are seldom met with in -commerce. - - -OIL OF LEMON (OLEUM LIMONIS), - -obtained from the fruits of the lemon-tree, is one of the most -important products, both statistically and economically, of the Citrus -family. In German works there is often a confusion between “oil of -citron” and “oil of lemon,” it being supposed by the authors that the -“Citronen-öl” is derived from the citron (Citrus medica), and the -“Limonen-öl” from the lemon (Citrus Limonum). There is, indeed, some -oil made, occasionally, from the citron, but it does not figure in -price-lists. The oil of the lemon, on the other hand, is very commonly -called “Citronen-öl,” and the fruit itself “Citrone.” Hence, when -“Citronen-öl” is quoted in a formula, it may be assumed at once that -oil of lemon is intended. It is very liable to resinify, when it loses -its fragrance. - - -OIL OF SWEET BAY (LAUREL) (OLEUM LAURI) - -is green, and usually mixed with the fixed oil of the same plant. It -finds more frequent application in the manufacture of liqueurs than -in perfumery; but as it has a pleasant odor it might well be used for -cheap perfumes. But in that event it must be freed from the fixed oil -by distillation. - - -OIL OF MAGNOLIA, - -likewise, has not yet been prepared as such. The remarks made above -under the head of oils of lily and wallflower apply also to this odor. -The so-called magnolia perfumes are mixtures of different odors. - - -OIL OF MARJORAM (OLEUM MAJORANÆ). - -Oil of marjoram, which is obtained by distillation from the dried -herb, has a strong aromatic odor. It is mentioned as having often been -used in perfumery for scenting soap instead of oil of thyme, whose -odor, moreover, is very similar to that of marjoram, but this is a -mistake, due to the fact that ordinary oil of thyme has long been sold -under the name of oil of origanum. True oil of marjoram costs about -twelve dollars a pound, while oil of thyme (so-called oil of origanum) -is worth only about eighty cents. It is rarely employed for volatile -perfumes. - - -OIL OF MELISSA. - -The oil of Melissa officinalis, owing to the very small yield, is quite -expensive. It is used only for the preparation of some perfumes which -owe their peculiar qualities to this strong odor. This oil must not -be confounded with the spurious oil of melissa, also called oil of -citron-melissa, which is identical with oil of lemon grass (see page -30). - - -OILS OF MINT. - -Although all the mints possess an agreeable odor, only three varieties -find extensive application. There are the oils from Mentha piperita, -peppermint; Mentha viridis, spearmint; and Mentha crispa, crispmint. -The oils of English manufacture are highly esteemed, but the United -States also produces them of excellent quality. At one time the -cultivation of mints, particularly peppermint, was greatly extended, -with the expectation of deriving satisfactory profit from the -enterprise. It has, however, been conclusively shown that the market -cannot absorb more than a certain quantity of these products; and that -any over-production brings loss and disappointment to the investor. -Beside the three kinds of mint above mentioned, there is another -species, Mentha arvensis, a native of Japan, which is extensively -cultivated there, and is the chief source of the menthol of commerce, -so well known as an efficient remedy for neuralgia, migraine, etc., in -form of menthol cones. The three varieties of the mint oils previously -mentioned are distinguished, aside from their pleasant odor, by the -property of leaving a very refreshing and cooling taste in the mouth, -and for this reason they form the most important constituent of all -fine mouth washes. - -True oil of peppermint, Oleum Menthæ piperitæ, when pure is colorless, -very mobile, of a burning sharp taste which is followed by a peculiar -coolness. The commercial product is usually pale green. Oil of -crispmint, Oleum Menthæ crispæ, which in Europe is often sold to -novices as oil of peppermint, has always a more or less yellow color -and resembles the oil of peppermint in its properties, but it is less -fine and cheaper. The same is true of the oil of spearmint, but this -has a very characteristic odor and taste, distinctly different from -peppermint. - -As above stated, the oils of mint are extensively used for mouth -washes, also for scenting soap, in liqueurs and pastils, but rarely in -handkerchief perfumes. - - -OILS OF MACE AND NUTMEG (OLEUM MACIDIS AND OLEUM MYRISTICÆ). - -These oils are prepared either from the seed coat (Oleum Macidis) -or the nutmeg itself (Oleum Myristicæ). Oil of mace generally has -a yellowish-red color in tint varying from dark to light and even -colorless. Its taste is agreeable and mild and the odor exceedingly -strong. Like oil of nutmeg, it is extensively used in the manufacture -of liqueurs and for scenting soap. The oil prepared by distillation -from the nutmeg is, when fresh, almost colorless or at most faintly -yellow, of a burning sharp taste, and an aromatic odor. Like oil of -mace, it is used in the manufacture of liqueurs and soaps and also in -many perfumes. - -In India a third valuable product is obtained from the nutmeg by -expression of the ripe fruits and is called nutmeg butter. This -is bright yellow and consists of a true fat and an essential oil. -Its odor is very pleasant and a very superior soap can be made by -saponification of this valuable product with soda lye. - - -OIL OF MYRTLE. - -This oil is of a greenish color and very mobile, but it is not a -commercial product; the manufacturer must prepare the oil himself from -the leaves, though the yield is small. The articles sold as so-called -essence of myrtle are always mixtures of different odors. Southern -France, however, exports at high prices a myrtle water (eau des anges) -which is really made by distillation of the leaves with water. - - -OIL OF NARCISSUS. - -As to the odor to which this flower owes its fragrance we may repeat -what we have said just now with reference to the oil of myrtle: we -have never succeeded in obtaining this oil in commerce. The so-called -essence of narcissus, though a very pleasant mixture, contains no trace -of the true oil. As to - - -OIL OF PINK, - -the same remark applies: the compositions sold under the name of -essence d’œillet, however, have a very striking odor of pink. - - -OIL OF CLOVE (OLEUM CARYOPHYLLI). - -This oil when fresh is colorless, but soon becomes yellowish or brown. -It is heavier than water in which it sinks and is characterized by an -exceedingly strong burning taste and a spicy odor. It remains at least -partly fluid at a very low temperature, namely,-20° C. (-4° F.). - - -OIL OF ORANGE FLOWERS (OLEUM NAPHÆ, OLEUM NEROLI), - -commercially known also under the French names huile de fleurs -d’oranges, huile néroli, huile néroli pétale, is obtained from the -flowers of the orange-tree in Southern France, where the orange is -specially planted for this purpose. The odor of the oil varies with the -mode of its preparation; that obtained by distillation with water has -a different odor from that made by maceration with fat and extraction -with alcohol. The latter variety of oil as such, however, is not -found in commerce, the alcoholic extract entering at once into the -composition of the perfumes. - -The French manufacturers of this oil, which is of great importance in -perfumery, distinguish several varieties. The most valuable is the oil -from the flowers of Citrus vulgaris (or Citrus Bigaradia), the true -bitter orange (or Seville orange) tree. This is the so-called néroli -bigarade. That called néroli pétale is obtained from the same flowers -carefully deprived of their floral envelopes, so that only the petals -are subjected to distillation. Much cheaper than these two is the oil -of petit grain which is distilled from the leaves and sometimes also -unripe fruits of various trees of the Citrus order. - -All these oils are among the most delicate; when fresh they are -colorless and have a peculiar bitter taste; exposed to light and air -they assume a reddish tint and undergo rapid resinification. They -should, therefore, be preserved in particularly well-closed vessels in -a dark, cool place. - -Not to be confounded with these oils is the - - -OIL OF ORANGE, - -of which there are two kinds, one from the bitter orange, known also -as Oil of Orange, Bigarade, and the other from the sweet orange, also -known as Oil of Portugal. Both are extracted from the peel of the fruit -by mechanical means. Both oils of orange peel are golden yellow, and -have a pleasant, refreshing odor recalling that of the fruit. They -find application for scenting soap, in toilet waters, and in some true -perfumes. When oil of orange or oil of orange peel is mentioned in any -formula, without further specification, the oil of _bitter_ orange peel -should be used. - - -OIL OF PATCHOULY. - -This oil, which might be manufactured with advantage in India, the -home of the plant, is, strange to say, not imported from that country, -but is distilled in Europe from the dried herb. Fresh oil of patchouly -is brown in color, very viscid, almost like balsam, and surpasses all -other essential oils in the intensity of its odor. Owing to the strong -odor, pure oil of patchouly must really be called ill-smelling; only -when highly diluted does the odor become pleasant, and then forms a -useful ingredient of many perfumes as the fundamental odor in the -harmony. - - -OIL OF SYRINGA. - -Oil of false jasmine, from the flowers of Philadelphus coronarius, -is not made as such; in Southern France, however, the flowers -are frequently used for the preparation of a cheap pomade known -commercially as orange-flower pomade. A personal experiment made with -the view to obtain the pure odor by extraction of the flowers with -petroleum ether has shown that this plant is suitable for making very -fine preparations, both handkerchief perfumes and pomades. - - -OIL OF ALLSPICE, - -of a burning sharp taste and odor, is colorless, but is hardly ever -used for the purposes of the perfumer—at most for soaps—but all the -more frequently in the manufacture of liqueurs, and particularly also -in that of artificial bay-rum. - - -OIL OF SWEET PEA - -has not been made thus far, though there is no doubt that this perfume, -too, can be prepared pure from the alcoholic extract of the pomade. -The properties of the oil should resemble those of the finest néroli -pétale. - - -OIL OF RUE (OLEUM RUTÆ). - -This oil, obtained by distillation of the herb, is colorless or pale -yellow, of a very strong, penetrating odor; it is used in some washes, -but more particularly as an ingredient in the manufacture of artificial -cognac, for which purpose the plant is specially cultivated in France. - - -OIL OF RESEDA (MIGNONETTE). - -The delightful odor of this plant which formerly could only be fixed by -maceration in fat may be readily prepared by extraction with petroleum -ether. Yet special precautions should be taken that nothing but -portions of the flowers, carefully picked off, and no green leaves are -extracted. The oil thus obtained has a yellow color and a disagreeable -odor which changes into the well-known pleasant smell of the flower -when highly diluted with alcohol. - - -OIL OF ROSE (OLEUM ROSÆ), - -also known as attar or otto of rose. The various species of roses give -different odors. The commercial Turkish, Persian, and Indian oils of -rose (which latter is never exported)—which, by the way, are very -generally adulterated even at their point of production—are derived -mainly from Rosa damascena, and when highly diluted yield the pleasant -odor of our ordinary garden roses. The rose oils having the odor of the -moss rose, tea rose, or dog rose are made almost exclusively in France -and in commerce do not appear pure but generally in the form of pomades -or alcoholic solutions known as essences de roses. - -True rose oil is yellowish or yellow, or else greenish, and varying -from liquid almost to the consistence of butter. Between these -extremes there are all possible gradations. A comparatively very high -congealing-point is a characteristic of oil of rose. It becomes almost -solid at 14 to 20° C. (57 to 68° F.). The portion separated during -solidification is colorless, markedly crystalline, and, strange to say, -almost odorless. Pure oil of rose smells disagreeably narcotic, only -the very dilute solution shows the incomparable fragrance. - -Much superior to the oils of rose which are prepared from rose leaves -(either fresh or salted) are those obtained by maceration or extraction -with petroleum ether. Those perfumes sold under the name of various -species of rose, such as moss rose, etc., are combinations of rose oil -with other aromatics. - - -OIL OF RHODIUM. - -This bright yellow light oil is obtained by distillation of the wood of -Convolvulus Scoparius. At times this oil is scarce in commerce. It has -a faint but decided odor of rose. - - -OIL OF ROSEMARY (OLEUM ROSMARINI). - -This oil is obtained by distillation from the herb of the rosemary -plant as a thin, pale green fluid with an aromatic odor and spicy -taste. It is used as an ingredient in some old renowned handkerchief -perfumes—for instance, Cologne water—also for flavoring soaps and -liqueurs. - - -OIL OF SAGE (OLEUM SALVIÆ), - -from the flowers of Salvia officinalis, is yellowish, with an odor -somewhat similar to that of oil of peppermint, but far less intense. -Like the latter it imparts a pleasant coolness to the mouth and hence -is used in some mouth washes. - - -OIL OF SANTAL (OLEUM SANTALI). - -The oil of santal wood (also called sandal-wood oil) has a thick, -honey-like consistence and an agreeable, rose-like odor. Formerly -it was sometimes used for the adulteration of oil of rose, but can -also very well be used alone for several perfumes and fumigating -preparations. - - -OIL OF SASSAFRAS (OLEUM SASSAFRAS) - -is yellow, spicy, with a burning odor and taste; in the cold it -crystallizes only in part. The odor of this oil recalls that of fennel. -The purest form of it, or rather substitute for it, is safrol, its main -constituent, which is, however, now extracted more economically from -crude oil of camphor, in which it likewise forms an ingredient. - - -OIL OF MEADOW-SWEET (OLEUM SPIRÆÆ). - -Several species of Spiræa, and especially Spiræa ulmaria, furnish very -pleasant odors. This oil consists mainly of salicylic aldehyde. - -Despite its pleasant odor and the facility of its production, this -substance has thus far found little application in perfumery. The -natural oil of meadowsweet, owing to its extremely high price, can -hardly ever be used. - - -OIL OF STAR-ANISE (OLEUM ANISI STELLATI; OLEUM ILLICII) - -resembles in its properties the oil of anise, even in its odor; but -all connoisseurs agree that the odor of the oil of star-anise far -surpasses that of the oil of anise, hence the former is used especially -for fine perfumes. This preference, however, does not extend to all -preparations. For certain liqueurs, such as anisette, the oil obtained -from common anise (Saxon anise) is usually preferred. Many also regard -the odor of star-anise as inferior to that of fine European anise. - - -OILS OF THYME (OLEUM THYMI). - -The essential oils of thyme (chiefly Thymus vulgaris) and some related -plants are very frequently used for scenting cheap soaps. The oils of -these plants are light yellow, and so similar in odor that it is not -possible to distinguish them except by direct comparison. - - -OIL OF VANILLA, - -or, more correctly, vanilla camphor, the true odorous constituent -of vanilla, also called vanillin, is a crystalline substance with a -delightful odor, melting at 76° C. (169° F.). This is now extensively -made artificially from the cambium sap of pines, the coniferin being -converted by chemical processes into vanillin. One ounce of good -vanillin is equivalent to about forty ounces of best Mexican vanilla -beans. - - -OIL OF VIOLET - -has thus far been produced in but very small quantities from the -alcoholic extract of the true violet pomade; it has a greenish color -and when pure a narcotic odor not to be recognized as that of the -flower. The pleasant odor of violets manifests itself only in extreme -dilution. - - -OIL OF VERBENA - -is yellow, with a very pleasant odor of lemons. Its price being quite -high, it is usually adulterated with oil of lemon-grass, or else -the latter is sold under the name of oil of verbena (see p. 30). In -fact the odors of the two oils are so similar that they are easily -confounded. - - -OIL OF VETIVER (OLEUM IVARANCHUSÆ), - -from Andropogon muricatus (see p. 30), is viscid, reddish-brown, with a -very strong and lasting odor. - - -OIL OF WINTERGREEN (OLEUM GAULTHERIÆ). - -This product is obtained by distillation from the leaves and twigs -of Gaultheria procumbens or else by distilling the bark or leaves -of Betula lenta with water, in which case the oil is generated by -the action of the water, as it does not pre-exist in the birch, -and, moreover, in this case the oil consists of nothing but methyl -salicylate. It differs, like oil of meadowsweet, very markedly from -the other aromatic substances and mainly consists of a so-called -compound ether. It is a salicylate of methyl, boils at 220° C. (428° -F.), is much heavier than water (specific gravity 1·173 to 1·184), and -dissolves readily in alcohol and other solvents. It is used chiefly for -scenting soap; the perfumes sold as wintergreen are usually mixtures of -different substances which contain no oil of wintergreen. - - -OIL OF YLANG-YLANG (OLEUM UNONÆ ODORATISSIMÆ) - -is imported from Manilla. It is colorless or yellowish, and has a most -delightful characteristic odor, which is rather fugitive if not made -resistant by other substances. It forms an important constituent of -several of the most favorite and expensive essences. - - -OIL OF HYSSOP (OLEUM HYSSOPI) - -is colorless, but rapidly becomes yellow in the air. It is used in some -very cheap perfumes and in the manufacture of liqueurs. - - -OILS OF CINNAMON (OLEUM CINNAMOMI). - -Commercially we find chiefly three varieties of essential oils which -are designated as: oil of Ceylon cinnamon, oil of Chinese cinnamon or -oil of cassia, and oil of cinnamon leaves. Oil of Ceylon cinnamon, -sometimes called “true oil of cinnamon,” made from the bark of the -twigs of the cinnamon laurel and formerly imported mainly from Ceylon -but now distilled in large amounts in Germany from imported cinnamon -“chips,” is rather viscid, golden yellow to reddish-brown in color, of -a burning though sweet taste. In the air it gradually absorbs oxygen, -when it becomes dark red, thicker, and of weaker flavor. Oil of Ceylon -cinnamon, which should always be used in perfumes or liqueurs when -simply “oil of cinnamon” is directed, has a specific gravity of 1·030 -to 1·035 at 15° C. (59° F.) and boils at about 240° C. (464° F.). Its -chief constituent upon which its aroma depends is cinnamyl aldehyde. - -Oil of Chinese cinnamon, or oil of cassia, has for a very long time, -up to within a few years, always reached the market in a more or less -adulterated state, a regular practice of the Chinese exporters being -to dissolve ordinary resin in it (claiming afterward that the “resin” -was caused by the oxidation of the oil through age) and often also to -add petroleum to it. These frauds have been well shown up by Schimmel -& Co., of Leipsic; and in consequence thereof, the quality of oil of -cassia exported from China has been greatly improved. Oil of cassia -when pure has a specific gravity of 1·060 to 1·065, and should contain -not less than seventy-five per cent of cinnamyl aldehyde. - -Oil of cinnamon leaves is an inferior product, often used for -adulterating oil of Ceylon cinnamon. It does not deserve notice by the -perfumer. - -As an appendix we may add in this connection a description of the - - -OIL OF TURPENTINE (OLEUM TEREBINTHINÆ), - -because it must be called an important substance to know for the -perfumer, inasmuch as it is very frequently used for the adulteration -of different essential oils. Oil of turpentine, which is obtained from -incisions into the bark of different fir and pine trees, the exuding -resin being distilled with water, comes into commerce from various -sources. Different sorts are distinguished, but to the perfumer only -the rectified oil of turpentine, oleum terebinthinæ rectificatum, is -important. Oil of turpentine has a yellowish color and a decidedly -disagreeable, resinous, and burnt taste. By repeated distillation, -especially over quicklime or chloride of lime (bleaching powder), it is -finally obtained as a colorless, very refractive liquid with a density -of 0·855 to 0·870 and a boiling-point at 160° C. (320° F.). Its odor -is peculiar, but not easily distinguished from that of old essential -oils, such as oils of caraway, anise, etc. One peculiarity of oil of -turpentine is that its odor is easily masked by that of other essential -oils, so that, for instance, a comparatively large quantity of oil of -turpentine needs the addition of but little oil of anise to impart to -the entire mixture a rather pronounced odor of anise. This peculiarity -has led to the frequent employment of rectified oil of turpentine for -the adulteration of other essential oils. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -THE ADULTERATIONS OF ESSENTIAL OILS AND THEIR RECOGNITION. - - -We find it necessary to devote a special chapter to the adulterations -of the commercial essential oils because an experience of many years -has shown us that hardly any other group of products is subject to -so many sophistications as essential oils. The high price of most -aromatic substances and the difficulty of recognizing the adulteration -furnish an inviting field to the unscrupulous manufacturer. In the -best interest of the perfumer, therefore, we advise the purchase of -essential oils only from renowned reliable houses, even at higher -prices, for the cheap commercial products are almost worthless, since -they are almost without exception adulterated. - -The adulterations are very manifold. Some expensive oils are mixed -with cheaper ones having a similar odor—for instance, oil of rose with -oil of geranium or oil of geranium grass; oil of orange flowers with -the oil from Philadelphus coronarius; oil of verbena with oil of lemon -grass; oils of caraway, anise, and fennel with oil of turpentine; oil -of cinnamon with oil of cassia, etc. Besides these, other deceptions -are practised—for instance, oil of anise is mixed with oil of -turpentine and in order to make the mixture congeal readily (which is -the characteristic of true oil of anise, as above stated) paraffin -or spermaceti is added. A similar practice prevails with adulterated -oil of rose and other viscid oils. Oil of bitter almond we have found -adulterated with or entirely replaced by nitrobenzol, etc. - -The demonstration of the adulteration of an essential oil by chemical -means offers many difficulties. We devote particular attention to -the physical characteristics, for experience has shown us that the -olfactory organ—provided it is very expert—is often able to determine -the genuineness of any aromatic substance when other tests have given -only uncertain results, or can give certain results only in the hands -of experts. To make this test, however, quite reliable, it is necessary -to be familiar with the substances in their pure unadulterated -condition. - -The manufacturer of perfumery, therefore, should spare neither trouble -nor pecuniary sacrifices to obtain possession of absolutely genuine -specimens of those essential oils, even in minute quantities, which -he intends to employ. Such samples should be carefully preserved -(protected from heat, evaporation, daylight, etc.) for the purpose of -immediate comparison with the oils to be purchased. - -As above stated, the physical properties of the essential oils -usually furnish the means of recognizing their purity, and these give -more reliable results to the practical perfumer than the chemical -tests. The most valuable points are furnished by the boiling-point, -the congealing-point, and the density of the oils. The following -table gives the boiling and congealing points of the most important -essential oils in degrees of the centigrade thermometer, together with -the density (or specific gravity); where two figures are given, they -indicate the extreme limits found in genuine samples. - -Special characteristics of some essential oils with reference to their -action at low temperatures or their melting-point are given in the -column “Remarks.” - -Oil of turpentine, paraffin, wax, and spermaceti being frequently used -for the adulteration of essential oils, have been included in the table. - -If accurate results are aimed at in the examination of an essential -oil according to this table, the specific gravity should be determined -by means of a scale sensitive to one one-thousandth gram, and the -thermometer should be graduated to the tenth of a degree. - - - TABLE SHOWING THE APPROXIMATE DENSITY, BOILING AND CONGEALING POINTS - OF THE MOST IMPORTANT ESSENTIAL OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. - - —————————————————+—————————————+—————————-+————————————-+————————————— - | | Boiling- | Congealing- | - Essential Oil | Density. | Point, | Point, | Remarks. - of | | Deg. C. | Deg. C. | - —————————————————+—————————————+—————————-+————————————-+————————————— - Absinth | 0·895 | ... | ... | - Anise | 0·980 | ... | +10-15 | - Bergamot | 0·850-0·890 | 188 | -24 | - Bitter almond | 1·040 | 180 | ... | - Do., art. | | | | - (nitrobenzol) | 1·866 | 213 | +3 | - Cajuput | 0·880 | ... | ... | - Calamus | 0·962 | ... | ... | - Camomile | 0·924 | 160-210 | ... | - Camphor (Borneo) | ... | 212 | ... | Melts at 198 - " (Chinese) | 0·985 | 205 | ... | Melts at 175 - Caraway | 0·960 | 195 | ... | - Cassia | 1·060 | 252-255 | ... | - Cedar wood | ... | 264 | -22 | - Cinnamon | 1·030-1·035 | 240 | below -25 | - " leaf | 1·053 | ... | ... | - Clove | 1·034-1·055 | 248 | below 20 | Forms - | | | | crystals -16 - Coriander | 0·871 | 150-200 | ... | - Crispmint | 0·978 | ... | ... | - Cubeb | 0·880 | ... | ... | - Fennel | 0·960-0·980 | ... | +8 | - Gaultheria | 1·173 | 224 | ... | - Geranium | 0·895 | 216-220 | ... | Forms - | | | | crystals -16 - Hyssop | 0·889 | ... | ... | - Juniper | 0·870 | ... | ... | - Lavender | 0·870-0·940 | 186-192 | ... | - Spike-lavender | ... | 140 | ... | - Lemon | 0·850-0·870 | 177-250 | ... | - " grass | 0·870-0·898 | 220 | -22 | - Limetta | 0·931 | ... | ... | - Mace | 0·890-0·950 | ... | ... | - Marjoram | 0·890-0·920 | 163 | ... | - Melissa | 0·855 | ... | ... | - Neroli | 0·889-0·889 | 175 | ... | Forms - | | | | crystals -16 - Nutmeg | 0·880-0·948 | 172 | ... | - " butter | ... | ... | 31 | - Olibanum | ... | 162 | ... | - Orange, bitter | 0·830-0·860 | 176 | ... | - " sweet | 0·840-0·850 | 176 | ... | - Parsley | 1·015 | ... | ... | - Patchouly | 0·950-1·012 | 282-294 | ... | - Peppermint | 0·902-0·930 | 188-212 | ... | - Portugal | | | | - (orange peel) | 0·840-0·850 | 176 | ... | - Rose | 0·832 | 229 | +14-20 | - Rosemary | 0·895-0·916 | 185 | ... | - Rue | 0·911 | ... | ... | - Sage | 0·902 | ... | ... | - Santal | 0·950-0·980 | 288 | -22 | - Sassafras | 1·082 | ... | ... | - Serpyllum | 0·890-0·920 | ... | ... | - Star-anise | 0·982 | ... | ... | - Thyme | 0·870-0·940 | 170-180 | ... | - Vanilla | ... | 150 | 76 | - Vetiver | 1·007 | 286 | ... | - Wintergreen | 1·180 | 220 | ... | - Ylang-ylang | 0·980 | ... | ... | - Turpentine | 0·855-0·870 | 160 | ... | - Paraffin | 0·870 | ... | ... |Melts at 50-65 - Wax | 0·960-0·970 | ... | ... |Melts at 65-70 - Spermaceti | 0·943 | ... | ... |Melts at 45-50 - —————————————————+—————————————+—————————-+————————————-+————————————— - -In buying essential oils, except it be from a house whose reputation is -a guaranty of their genuineness, it is to the interest of the perfumer -to make a test. He must look for certain substances which are generally -used for the sophistication of essential oils. These are: A. Other -essential oils; B. Fixed oils; C. Alcohol; D. Paraffin, spermaceti, -wax. - - -A. ADULTERATION OF ESSENTIAL OILS WITH OTHER ESSENTIAL OILS. - -This mode of adulteration, which is frequent, is naturally the one -most difficult of demonstration. In the case of cheap oils such as -those of caraway, lemon, orange peel, etc., rectified oil of turpentine -is almost without exception the adulterant. The methods usually -recommended, such as attempting to dissolve out the oil of turpentine -by strong alcohol, hoping thus to separate it from the essential oil, -are without practical value. - -The adulteration can, however, often be demonstrated by rubbing a drop -of the suspected oil on a glass plate and testing the odor, provided -the olfactory organ is trained. As the above table shows, the oils -have different high boiling-points, while oil of turpentine boils at a -rather low temperature, hence it evaporates sooner than the others and -can be demonstrated by its odor. - -The demonstration of an adulteration with an essential oil is most -certain by so-called fractional distillation. Some of the oil to be -examined (about four to six fluidrachms) is placed in a small retort -with condenser and heated to a temperature a few degrees below the -boiling-point of the oil in question. If, for instance, oil of bergamot -adulterated with oil of turpentine is to be tested, it is heated -carefully to nearly 188° C. (370° F.), the boiling-point of the oil of -bergamot; the oil of turpentine which boils at 160° C. (320° F.) passes -over completely, while the oil of bergamot remains in the retort. - -Fractional distillation is also the most reliable way of demonstrating -an adulteration with a fixed oil or with paraffin, wax, or spermaceti. -An adulteration of oil of lavender with oil of spike-lavender, which -is otherwise barely recognizable, is positively shown by this method; -even oil of geranium in oil of rose, oil of cassia in oil of cinnamon, -etc., may be thus demonstrated. - - -B. ADULTERATION OF ESSENTIAL OILS WITH FIXED OILS. - -An addition of fixed oils can be easily demonstrated by agitation of -the oil with strong alcohol in which the essential oil dissolves, -while the fixed oil remains unchanged. Castor oil, however, is -likewise soluble in alcohol and for this reason is frequently used -for the adulteration of essential oils. Yet the presence of a fixed -oil can also be shown in a very simple manner by placing a drop of -the suspected oil upon white paper and leaving it for some hours in -a warm spot. If the oil was pure, the translucent stain on the paper -will disappear completely (also when the oil was adulterated with -turpentine); but if it was mixed with a fixed oil, the stain will -remain permanently and cannot be removed from the paper even by strong -heat. - - -C. ADULTERATION WITH ALCOHOL. - -This frequent adulteration is demonstrated either by fractional -distillation, when the alcohol passes over first between 70° and 80° C. -(158° and 176° F.), or by the use of the vessel illustrated in Fig. 31, -which is divided into 100 equal parts. - -[Illustration: FIG. 31.] - -The vessel is filled to the tenth division with the oil to be tested, -and water is added to bring the volume to the 50 mark. If alcohol is -present, it is taken up by the water so that the volume of oil appears -to diminish. If the oil reaches to the mark 7, it contained three -volumes of alcohol, or in other words it was mixed with thirty per cent -of alcohol. It is true, essential oils likewise dissolve somewhat in -water, but in such minute quantities as not to affect the success of -the test. - - -D. ADULTERATION WITH PARAFFIN, SPERMACETI, OR WAX. - -This mode of adulteration is practised mainly with viscid oils which -congeal at rather high temperatures, such as oils of anise, rose, etc., -the essential oils being usually mixed at the same time with oil of -turpentine or paraffin. The fraud is easily detected by fractional -distillation. - -Oil of bitter almonds is often adulterated with oil of mirbane; this -can be demonstrated by shaking 1 volume of the oil with 17 volumes -of alcohol of 45%, and setting the mixture aside to settle. The -nitrobenzol (oil of mirbane) will then collect at the bottom. Oil of -Rose may be tested as follows: Mix the oil with an equal quantity of -concentrated sulphuric acid. Neither the color nor the odor of the oil -should be changed, but if oil of geranium was present a disagreeable -odor and a darker color is produced. - -It has been proposed, too, to test the oils by heating with iodine -or nitric acid and determining the purity by the reaction; but the -results with the different oils are so similar that the test is -almost worthless. We have had the same experience with the test by -nitro-prusside of copper which on being heated with essential oils -gives colored precipitates differing with various oils, but still so -similar that they cannot be relied upon. We have found in all cases -that a comparison of an oil with a sample of known purity is the best, -or else the tests given in the preceding pages. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -THE ESSENCES OR EXTRACTS EMPLOYED IN PERFUMERY. - - -The term _essence_ or _extract_ in perfumery means a solution of an -aromatic substance in strong alcohol. These solutions are generally -made as concentrated as possible and in this form find application in -the manufacture of handkerchief perfumes and of certain odors bearing a -special name. The so-called extrait d’œillet, extract of pink, or the -favorite perfumes known as new-mown hay have nothing in common with -either pink or hay except the name; like many other odors, both are -merely mixtures of different essences or extracts. - -Besides the manufacture of true perfumes, essences or extracts are -also used for scenting fine soaps, sachets, mouth washes, etc. For the -latter, too, use is often made of the so-called aromatic waters (eaux -aromatisées) which are obtained as a by-product in the distillation of -fragrant plants, and have a very fine odor owing to the small amount -of the aromatic substance they hold in solution. To this class belong -orange-flower water (Aqua Naphæ triplex, eau de fleurs d’oranges), -peppermint water (Aqua Menthæ, eau de menthe), and many others. - -Essences or extracts can be made in two ways: in the case of aromatic -substances which are obtainable in the pure state—that is, essential -oils—by dissolving them in strong alcohol in definite proportions; -in the case of aromatics combined with a fatty substance by one of -the processes described above, by treating the pomade (lard, or other -perfectly bland, sweet, and in itself odorless fat combined with the -aromatic) or huile antique (fixed oil holding the aromatic substance -in solution) with the strongest alcohol. - -According to the action of the alcohol upon the pomade or huile antique -at ordinary or higher temperature, the process is called cold or warm -infusion. Cold infusion furnishes the odor in a much more delicate and -superior form than the warm. The cold infusion requires for complete -solution of the aromatic four to six weeks; the warm, ten to fourteen -days. Although the former consumes a much longer time, it is to be -preferred, as the heat injures the odor. Pomades or huiles antiques are -never completely exhausted by a single treatment with alcohol. Even -when heat is employed they always retain a portion of the aromatic with -great tenacity; a second and third infusion still abstracts odor from -them, and finally nothing remains but pure fat with a pleasant odor -which is stained and sold commercially as pomade under the name of the -respective odor—violet, orange flower, reseda, etc.—or else is used -over again in the factory for the extraction of flowers. - -Experience has shown us that it is best to infuse the pomades or huiles -antiques twice in the cold and to use the two fluids united for the -finest perfumes; the residue by warm infusion furnishes an essence of -second quality, and superior pomades or fragrant oils. The infusion is -generally effected in strong glass bottles of a capacity of three to -five gallons; about five to six quarts of cologne spirit being poured -over six to eight pounds or pints of fat or huile antique. - -In treating huiles antiques all parts of the oil should be brought into -contact with the alcohol as much as possible, hence the bottles must -be frequently shaken; a better plan is to bring the tightly closed -bottles into an apparatus in which they are constantly agitated by -rotation. Such an apparatus is easily made by placing the bottles in -an inclined position between two rods fastened to a common axis which -is kept revolving. The adjoining illustration (Fig. 32) shows such a -contrivance which is required also in the manufacture of perfumes. The -rotation may be effected by clockwork, water power, or any other motor. - -[Illustration: FIG. 32.] - -Pomades being solid must be divided into small pieces which may be done -with a knife, but the following procedure is more suitable and less -laborious. The pomade is placed in a tin cylinder four inches wide and -about a foot high, which is open at one end, the other being closed -with a tin plate having several fine openings. The cylinder filled with -pomade is set upon the bottle containing the alcohol for extraction, -and the pomade is pressed through the openings in the shape of thin -threads by means of a piston. - -In this way, of course, the pomade acquires a very large surface and -rapidly yields the aromatic substance to the alcohol. The odor of -the pomade differs according to the length of time which it has been -subjected to the flowers, and on being treated with alcohol furnishes -extracts of corresponding strength. This should be borne in mind in the -manufacture of perfumes which are intended to be uniform in quality. - -After two cold and one warm infusion of the pomade, it may be made to -yield some more aromatic material by heating it carefully to its exact -melting-point, when extract again appears on the surface and can be -poured off by gentle inclination of the vessel. - -In the following pages we give the proportions by weight and -measure employed by the most important French, English, and German -manufacturers for their pomade extracts or solutions of the essential -oils in alcohol. As to the latter we again repeat that it must be over -88 to 90% strength according to Tralles or even stronger, and that it -must be absolutely free from any trace of amyl alcohol (potato fusel -oil), the least amount of which impairs the delicacy of the odor. In -this country (the United States) there is no difficulty whatever in -obtaining alcohol of proper strength. The market offers scarcely any -other but that of 94%. Of course deodorized alcohol, or so-called -Cologne spirit should be used. Grain and wine spirits are the kinds -which when rectified are to be preferred to all others. All the citron -oils (_i.e._, oils of lemon, bergamot, and those with similar odor), -rose oils (oils of rose, geranium, and rhodium), and many other sweet -scents are most fragrant when dissolved in pure spirit of wine, while -the odors from the animal kingdom and those of violet (violet and orris -root) smell sweetest when dissolved in grain spirit. - -The essences prepared from pomades or huiles antiques usually contain -in solution some fat which is best removed by cooling. To this end the -vessels containing the essences are placed in a vat and surrounded with -pellets of ice and crystals of chloride of calcium. By this mixture the -temperature can be reduced below-20° C. (-4° F.), and after some time -the fats are deposited in a solid form at the bottom of the vessel. -This is then taken from the vat and the essence carefully poured from -the sediment. - -The alcoholic extracts of the pomades or solutions of the aromatics are -called essences or extracts (French, extraits); the solutions obtained -from resins and balsams are usually termed tinctures. - -While some extracts, owing to their strong odor, can be used only when -diluted with alcohol, others are employed in perfumes as such. Pure -extracts (extraits purs) are those containing only a single odor and -are but rarely used as perfumes; the latter are usually mixtures of -several, often a great many odors. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE MOST IMPORTANT ESSENCES AND EXTRACTS. - - -NOTE.—There is considerable confusion, in works on perfumery, regarding -the terms _essence_ and _extract_. In French works, _essence_ always -means “essential oil.” Thus “essence de rose” is “essential oil of -roses,” or “attar (otto) of roses.” _Extrait_ (French) is used of -alcoholic solutions of oils, as well as alcoholic extracts of pomades, -or of substances not wholly soluble in alcohol, and also of compound -liquids. In English, _essence_ is used, and should be confined to -alcoholic solutions of essential oils (“essence of lemon,” “essence -of peppermint”). It is, then, equivalent to the term “spirit,” -which is also used only of alcoholic solutions of essential oils or -other volatile substance (such as: spirit of peppermint, essence -of peppermint; spirit of camphor, etc.). Liquid alcoholic extracts -of substances not wholly soluble in alcohol are properly called -_tinctures_ (for instance, tincture of benzoin, tincture of musk); and -liquid alcoholic extracts of pomades, or compound odorous liquids, are -best comprised under the general term _extracts_. - -We shall employ the terms _essence_, _extract_, and _tincture_ in the -sense here explained. - - -EXTRACT OF CASSIE (EXTRAIT DE CASSIE). - - Cassie pomade 6 lbs. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -Extract of cassie has a fine green color—a fact which is not desirable -in perfumes intended for the handkerchief because colored preparations -leave stains. However, extract of cassie is rarely used pure, but is -generally mixed with other odors for handkerchief perfumes, whereby the -color is so much diluted that it may be disregarded. This extract—and -the same remark applies to all the others—immediately after its -preparation must be put into tightly closed vessels and preserved in -the coolest attainable dark place; for light, air, and heat must be -called the destroyers of perfumes, since the most delightful odors -eventually disappear under their influence. - -For the benefit of manufacturers who import this extract from Southern -France, the main source of supply, we may add that the word cassie or -extrait de cassie, derived from the flowers of Acacia farnesiana, might -readily give rise to confusion with extrait de cassia, made from the -bark of the cinnamon cassia. - - -TINCTURE OF AMBERGRIS (EXTRAIT D’AMBREGRIS). - - Ambergris 5 oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -The ambergris should be broken into small pieces with a chopping knife -repeatedly moistened with alcohol, and allowed to digest in the alcohol -for some weeks at a temperature of about 30° C. (86° F.). - - -TINCTURE OF BENZOIN (EXTRAIT DE BENJOIN). - - Benzoin 10 oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -This tincture is not so much used for handkerchief perfumes as for -preserving many pomades, as it possesses the valuable property of -preventing fats from becoming rancid. - - -ESSENCE OF BERGAMOT (EXTRAIT DE BERGAMOTTE). - - Oil of bergamot 8 oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -TINCTURE OF CASTOR (EXTRAIT DE CASTOREUM). - - Castor 2½ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -TINCTURE OF MUSK SEED (EXTRAIT D’AMBRETTE). - - Musk seed, powdered 1 lb. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -ESSENCE OF BITTER ALMOND (EXTRAIT D’AMANDE). - - Oil of bitter almond 1¾ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -ESSENCE OF CALAMUS (EXTRAIT DE GLAÏEUL). - - Oil of calamus 1¾ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -This essence has a pleasant odor, but it is not valued as a true -perfume; though if it is mixed with other essences or extracts until -its characteristic odor is no longer recognizable it furnishes a very -useful basis for many cheap articles. - - -ESSENCE OF CEDAR (EXTRAIT DE CÈDRE). - - Oil of cedar wood ½ lb. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -This essence made from the oil is colorless and can be used immediately -for handkerchief perfumes. - - -TINCTURE OF CEDAR (EXTRAIT DE BOIS DE CÈDRE). - -This is made by digesting finely rasped cedar wood with strong alcohol, -namely: - - Cedar wood chips 6 lb. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -The result is a fragrant tincture with a beautiful deep red color which -cannot be employed for handkerchief perfumes, but for many cosmetic -preparations such as mouth washes and for scenting soap. - - -ESSENCE OF CITRONELLA. - - Extrait de citronella 3 to 3½ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -ESSENCE OF LEMON GRASS (EXTRAIT DE SCHOENANTHE). - - Oil of lemon grass 2 to 3 oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -EXTRACT OF LILAC (EXTRAIT DE LILAS). - -The genuine is seldom made; the preparation sold under this name -consists of: - - Oil of bitter almond 15 grains. - Extract of orange flowers, from pomade 2 qts. - Extract of tuberose, from pomade 3 qts. - Tincture of civet ¼ pint. - -Of late, extract of lilac is often prepared by means of lilacin or -terpineol, as follows: - - Lilacin 1 oz. - Alcohol 1 pint. - - -EXTRACT OF HONEYSUCKLE (EXTRAIT DE CHÈVRE-FEUILLE). - -The author has made this extract by treating the pomade prepared from -the flowers of Lonicera Caprifolium, in the following proportion: - - Honeysuckle pomade 6 lb. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -The commercial extract of this name is always a compound which may be -prepared according to the following formula: - - Extract of rose, made from the pomade 1 qt. - Extract of tuberose, from pomade 1 qt. - Extract of violet, from pomade 1 qt. - Tincture of vanilla ½ pint. - Tincture of Tolu ½ pint. - Oil of bitter almond 15 grains. - Oil of neroli 8 grains. - - -ESSENCE OF GERANIUM. - - Oil of geranium (rose-geranium) 5½ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -In the commercial article the essence of lemon grass is often -substituted for the essence of geranium, the odor being similar, though -less delicate. - - -EXTRACT OF CUCUMBER (EXTRAIT DE CONCOMBRES). - - Cucumbers 8 lbs. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -The cucumbers are peeled, cut into thin slices, and macerated in the -warm alcohol. If the odor is not strong enough in the alcohol after -some days, it is poured over some more fresh slices, the macerated -residue is expressed, and at the end of the operation all the liquids -are united and filtered. - - -EXTRACT OF HELIOTROPE (EXTRAIT DE HÉLIOTROPE). - - Heliotrope pomade 6 lb. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -This has thus far been manufactured only by French perfumers at very -high prices; the great majority of the so-called extracts of heliotrope -are compounded from: - - Extract of rose, from pomade 2 qts. - Extract of orange flowers, from pomade 14 oz. - Tincture of ambergris 7 oz. - Tincture of vanilla 4 qts. - Oil of bitter almond 75 grains. - -This is used as a perfume as such. - -More recently, piperonal, under the name heliotropin, is used for -making this extract— - - Heliotropin ¼ oz. - Alcohol 1 Pint. - -It is necessary to blend this with various other aromatics in order to -cover the pronounced odor. A little cumarin is usually of great help. -But is it impossible, as yet, to give reliable proportions which would -suit all cases. - - -EXTRACT OF JASMINE (EXTRAIT DE JASMIN). - - Jasmine pomade 6 lb. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -ESSENCE OF LAVENDER (EXTRAIT DE LAVANDE). - - Oil of lavender 7 oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -A far superior essence may be prepared by the distillation of: - - Oil of lavender 7 oz. - Rose water 2 qts. - Alcohol 10 qts. - -The distillation is continued until one-half of the entire liquid has -passed over; the residue in the still furnishes an essence of lavender -of the second quality. - - -EXTRACT OF WALLFLOWER (EXTRAIT DE GIROFLÉ). - -The genuine odor can be made only from the pomade; the commercial -extract consists of: - - Extract of cassie, from pomade 1 pint. - Extract of orange flower, from pomade 1 qt. - Extract of rose, from pomade 1 qt. - Tincture of vanilla. 1 pint. - Tincture of orris root 1 pint. - Oil of bitter almond 1 pint. - - -EXTRACT OF LILY (EXTRAIT DE LYS). - -As to this delightful odor the remark made under the preceding head -applies likewise; artificial extract of lily consists of: - - Extract of cassie, from pomade 3 pints. - Extract of jasmine, from pomade 13½ fl. oz. - Extract of orange flower, from pomade 27 fl. oz. - Extract of rose, from pomade 3 pints. - Extract of tuberose, from pomade 3 qts. - Tincture of vanilla 40½ fl. oz. - Oil of bitter almond 30 grains. - - -ESSENCE OF LEMON (EXTRAIT DE LIMON). - - Oil of lemon 7 oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -EXTRACT OF MAGNOLIA (EXTRAIT DE MAGNOLIA). - -This favorite perfume is a mixture of: - - Extract of orange flower, from pomade 2 qts. - Extract of rose, from pomade 4 qts. - Extract of tuberose, from pomade 1 qt. - Extract of violet, from pomade 1 qt. - Oil of bitter almond 40 grains. - Oil of lemon 16 grains. - - -ESSENCE OF PEPPERMINT (EXTRAIT DE MENTHE). - - Oil of peppermint 6½ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -TINCTURE OF MUSK (EXTRAIT DE MUSC). - - Musk 2½ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -This tincture is of special importance, not so much because of its odor -as on account of its useful property of fixing other very volatile -odors. - - -EXTRACT OF MYRTLE (EXTRAIT DE MYRTE). - -Owing to the small yield of essential oil furnished on distillation -by the myrtle and the comparatively high price of the oil of myrtle, -nearly all the extract of myrtle is prepared artificially, as follows: - - Extract of jasmine, from pomade ½ pint. - Extract of orange flower, from pomade 1 qt. - Extract of rose, from pomade 2 qts. - Extract of tuberose, from pomade 1 qt. - Tincture of vanilla 1 qt. - - -EXTRACT OF NARCISSUS. - -In perfumery, two extracts of narcissus are distinguished—true extract -of narcissus, from the flowers of the garden plant, Narcissus poeticus, -and the so-called extract of jonquille, from Narcissus Jonquilla, -which is cultivated in Southern France and whose odor is obtained by -maceration. Genuine extract of narcissus is even more rarely obtainable -than extract of jonquille; the odors of both are imitated, mainly -according to the following prescriptions: - - -1. EXTRACT OF NARCISSUS (EXTRAIT DE NARCISSE). - - Extract of jonquille, from pomade 2 qts. - Extract of tuberose, from pomade 3 qts. - Tincture of storax ½ pint. - Tincture of tolu ½ pint. - - -2. EXTRACT OF JONQUILLE (EXTRAIT DE JONQUILLE). - - Extract of jasmine, from pomade 2 qts. - Extract of orange flower, from pomade 1 qt. - Extract of tuberose, from pomade 2 qts. - Tincture of vanilla ½ pint. - - -ESSENCE OF CLOVE (EXTRAIT DE CLOUS DE GIROFLES). - - Oil of clove 4½ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -EXTRACT OF PINK (EXTRAIT D’ŒILLET). - -This pleasant odor occurs in commerce only as an imitation. - - Extract of cassie, from pomade 2½ pints. - Extract of orange flower, from pomade 2½ pints. - Extract of rose, from pomade 5 pints. - Tincture of vanilla 20 fl. oz. - Oil of clove, a sufficient quantity, about 75 grains. - -The oil of clove which determines the characteristic odor of this -extract is dissolved in a little alcohol; of this solution enough is -gradually added to the mixture until the odor has become sufficiently -strong. - - -EXTRACT OF ORANGE FLOWER OR NEROLI (EXTRAIT DE FLEURS D’ORANGES, -EXTRAIT DE NÉROLI). - - Orange-flower pomade 6 lb. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - Or, - - Oil neroli pétale 2½ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -The latter preparation is also called “essence of neroli.” - -The extract prepared from the pomade furnishes this highly esteemed -odor of a delicacy never to be approached by that made with oil. The -alcoholic extract of the pomade perfumed with the flowers of Syringa -(Philadelphus coronarius) also occurs in commerce as extract of orange -flowers or neroli. - - -ESSENCE OF PATCHOULY (EXTRAIT DE PATCHOULI). - - Oil of patchouly 1¼ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -This pure essence of patchouly has not a very pleasant odor; that made -according to the following formula is far superior. - - Oil of patchouly 1½ oz. - Oil of rose ⅜ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -TINCTURE OF BALSAM OF PERU (EXTRAIT DE PÉROU). - - Peru balsam 10½ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -This tincture, though of a very pleasant odor, can be used only for -scenting soap or sachets, as it has a very dark brown color; by -distilling alcohol over Peru balsam a colorless extract is obtained, -though of a fainter odor. - - -ESSENCE OF ALLSPICE (EXTRAIT DE PIMENT). - - Oil of allspice 3½ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -EXTRACT OF SWEET PEA (EXTRAIT DE POIS DE SENTEUR). - -This extract, made almost exclusively in Southern France by maceration -of the pomade, is but rarely met with in commerce; what passes under -this name is made as follows: - - Extract of orange flower, from pomade 2½ pints. - Extract of rose, from pomade 2½ pints. - Extract of tuberose, from pomade 2½ pints. - Tincture of vanilla 5¾ oz. - - -EXTRACT OF RESEDA (EXTRAIT DE MIGNONETTE). - - Reseda pomade 5 to 6 lb. - Alcohol 5 qts. - Tincture of tolu 5½ oz. - -The addition of the tincture of tolu is necessary here, owing to the -extraordinary volatility of the delightful odor of mignonette, which is -lessened by the addition of tincture of tolu. - - -ESSENCE OR EXTRACT OF ROSE (EXTRAITS DE ROSE). - -In commerce several sorts of essence or extract of rose are -distinguished; only the cheaper grades are made by direct solution of -the oil of rose in alcohol, the better grades are prepared only from -pomades. As the rose is the noblest of flowers, so are these odors the -most magnificent thus far produced by the art of perfumery, since they -are approached in delicacy and fragrance only by the genuine extracts -of orange flower and violet. The so-called rose waters (eaux de rose) -are best obtained by distillation of fresh or salted rose leaves with -water. The preceding formulæ will show that both extract of rose and -rose water form important constituents of many compound essences, hence -these materials require special attention. In the following pages -we enumerate only those formulæ which are acknowledged as the best -and furnish the finest product. As rose water likewise belongs among -the rose odors we give directions for its preparation, and observe -in passing that the precautions required in the manufacture of this -one apply also to all aromatic waters (eaux aromatisées). The first -essential to the production of a fine aromatic water is the employment -of the freshest possible flowers; when kept in stock, chemical changes -occur in the leaves which affect also the aromatic constituents and -lead to a deterioration of the fragrance. Hence we urgently recommend -to distil the freshly gathered flowers as soon as possible, even if the -quantity on hand be small. Should this not be feasible, it is advisable -to press the flowers immediately after gathering in stone-ware pots and -to pour over them a saturated solution of table salt. A concentrated -saline solution prevents decomposition by the abstraction of water; and -thus larger quantities of flowers may be gathered and distilled with -the salt solution. The majority of aromatic waters are prepared in this -way, for instance, rose, jasmine, lilac, and others. They enter less -into handkerchief perfumes than into various mouth and other washes, -and cosmetics in general. - - -ROSE WATER (EAU DE ROSE TRIPLE). - - Rose leaves 4 lb. - Water 20 pints. - -Mix them, and by means of steam, distil 10 pints. - -The rose leaves are, of course, preferably to be used while fresh. -If they are to be preserved for future use, they should be packed in -stone-ware jars, and covered with a solution of common salt. This -is poured off before distillation, but used over again for the same -purpose. - - -EXTRACT OF ROSE (EXTRAIT DE ROSES TRIPLE). - - Rose pomade 8 lb. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -ESSENCE OF [OIL OF] ROSE (ESPRIT DE ROSES TRIPLE). - - Oil of rose 3½ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -This essence is not so good as the extract. - - -EXTRACT OF CHINA ROSES (ESSENCE DE ROSES JAUNES). - - Essence of rose (triple) 2 qts. - Tincture of tonka ½ pint. - Extract of tuberose 2 qts. - Extract of verbena ½ pint. - - -EXTRACT OF SWEET-BRIER (WILD ROSE) (EXTRAIT D’EGLANTINE). - - Extract of cassie, from pomade 44 fl. oz. - Extract of orange flower, from pomade 44 fl. oz. - Extract of rose, from pomade 2½ qts. - Essence of rose (triple) 44 fl. oz. - Oil of lemon grass ¼ oz. - Oil of neroli ¼ oz. - - -EXTRACT OF MOSS-ROSE (EXTRAIT DE ROSES MOUSSEUSES). - - Extract of rose, from pomade 2 qts. - Extract of orange flower, from pomade 1 qt. - Essence of rose (triple) 1 qt. - Tincture of ambergris 1 pint. - Tincture of musk ½ lb. - - -EXTRACT OF TEA-ROSE (EXTRAIT DE ROSA THÉA). - - Extract of rose, from pomade 1 qt. - Extract of geranium, from pomade 1 qt. - Extract of orange flower, from pomade ½ pint. - Essence of rose (triple) 1 qt. - Tincture of santal ½ pint. - Tincture of orris root ½ pint. - - -EXTRACT OF WHITE ROSE (ESSENCE DE ROSES BLANCHES). - - Extract of rose, from pomade 1 qt. - Extract of jasmine, from pomade 1 pint. - Extract of violet, from pomade 1 qt. - Essence of patchouly ½ pint. - Essence of rose (triple) 1 qt. - - -EXTRACT OF TWIN-ROSES (ESSENCE DE ROSES JUMELLES). - - Extract of rose, from pomade 5 qts. - Oil of rose 1¾ oz. - - -EXTRACT OF SANTAL (EXTRAIT DE SANTAL). - - Tincture of santal 3½ oz. - Essence of rose (triple) 1 pint. - Alcohol 9 pints. - - -TINCTURE OF STORAX (ESSENCE DE STYRAX). - - Storax 10½ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -Though this tincture has a pleasant odor, it is not ordinarily used by -itself, but for fixing other odors. - - -TINCTURE OF TOLU (EXTRAIT DE BAUME DE TOLOU). - - Tolu balsam 10½ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -The remark made under tincture of storax applies also to this. - - -TINCTURE OF TONKA (EXTRAIT DE TONKA). - - Tonka beans, crushed 21 oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -EXTRACT OF TUBEROSE (EXTRAIT DE TUBEROSE). - - Tuberose pomade 8-10 lb. - Alcohol 5 qts. - Tincture of storax 10 fl. oz. - - -TINCTURE OF VANILLA (EXTRAIT DE VANILLE). - - Vanilla, sliced ½ lb. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -EXTRACT OF VIOLET (EXTRAIT DE VIOLETTE). - - Violet pomade 6-7 lb. - Extract of cassie 6½ fl. oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -This extract is very expensive; a good imitation is made as follows: - - Extract of cassie, from pomade 2 qts. - Extract of rose, from pomade 1 qt. - Extract of tuberose, from pomade 1 qt. - Tincture of orris root 1 qt. - Oil of bitter almond 15 grains. - - -TINCTURE OF ORRIS ROOT (EXTRAIT D’IRIS). - - Orris root, powdered 6-7 lb. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -This tincture is sold as a very cheap violet perfume, but it has also -considerable value to perfumery in general, owing to its fixing power. - - -EXTRACT OF VERBENA (EXTRAIT DE VERVEINE). - -True oil of verbena is rather expensive. Hence artificial compositions -are employed under the name of verbena which resemble the true odor, -though not exactly like it. - - -EXTRACT OF VERBENA A. - - Oil of lemon grass 75 grains. - Oil of lemon 14 oz. - Oil of orange peel 3½ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -This extract is cheap and is used immediately as a perfume. The -extract usually sold under the French name Extrait de verveine is more -expensive and far superior: - - -EXTRACT OF VERBENA B. - - Extract of orange flower, from pomade 30 fl. oz. - Extract of rose, from pomade 1 qt. - Extract of tuberose, from pomade ⅓ oz. - Oil of citron zeste ½ oz. - Oil of lemon grass ¾ oz. - Oil of lemon peel 9 oz. - Oil of orange peel 4½ oz. - Alcohol 4⅔ pints. - -As already explained, if hand-pressed oil of lemon (made by the écuelle -process) is available, then the “oil of citron zeste” (which is _this_ -particular kind of oil) and the “oil of lemon” may be simply added -together; that is, 9½ oz. of oil of lemon are used. - - -EXTRACT OF VOLCAMERIA (EXTRAIT DE VOLCAMERIA). - -This extract is no more derived from the fragrant blossom whose name -it bears than are those of the lily, pink, and others met with in -commerce. It is prepared according to the following formula: - - Extract of jasmine, from pomade 1 pint. - Extract of rose, from pomade 1 qt. - Extract of tuberose, from pomade 2 qts. - Extract of violet, from pomade 2 qts. - Tincture of musk. ½ pint. - - -ESSENCE OF VETIVER (EXTRAIT DE VÉTIVER). - - Oil of vetiver 2½ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -TINCTURE OF OLIBANUM (EXTRAIT D’OLIBAN, EXTRAIT D’ENCENS). - - Olibanum 1 lb. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -EXTRACT OF WINTERGREEN (EXTRAIT DE GAULTHÉRIE). - -This essence is more commonly sold under the English than the French -name. Its composition is the following: - - Tincture of ambergris 1 pint. - Extract of cassie 1 qt. - Essence of lavender 1 pint. - Extract of orange flower, from pomade 1 qt. - Extract of rose, from pomade 2 qts. - Tincture of vanilla. 1 pint. - Essence of vetiver 1 pint. - - -TINCTURE OF CIVET (EXTRAIT DE CIVETTE). - - Civet. 1—1½ oz. - Orris root 1—1½ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -Tincture of civet is exceedingly lasting and is generally employed for -fixing other odors. As to the quantity required to fix perfumes in -general, we may state that it varies with the nature of the odor. As a -rule, about one-sixteenth part of tincture of civet suffices for even -the most volatile perfumes. - - -TINCTURE OF CINNAMON (EXTRAIT DE CANELLE). - - Cinnamon 1 lb. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -Owing to the yellow color left upon handkerchiefs by perfumes prepared -with this extract, it can be used only for common goods, but it is more -frequently employed for scenting soaps. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -THE DIVISION OF PERFUMERY. - - -According to the purposes for which they are intended, the various -articles of perfumery may be divided into several groups. They are: - - -TRUE PERFUMES. - -A. _Liquid._—Alcoholic handkerchief perfumes. Among these are the -so-called extracts, bouquets, and waters. Ammoniacal and acid perfumes: -aromatic vinegars and volatile ammoniacal salts. - -B. _Dry._—Sachet powders, fumigating pastils and powders. - - -PREPARATIONS FOR THE CARE OF THE SKIN. - -Emulsions, crêmes, perfumed soaps, toilet waters, nail powders. - - -PREPARATIONS FOR THE CARE OF THE HAIR. - -Hair oils, pomades, hair washes. - - -PREPARATIONS FOR THE CARE OF THE MOUTH. - -Tooth powders, mouth washes. - - -COSMETICS. - -Paints, powders, hair dyes, depilatories, etc. - -In connection with the description of these different articles some -remarks will be made about the colors employed in perfumery and about -the utensils used with the cosmetics, such as combs, brushes, sponges, -etc. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - -THE MANUFACTURE OF HANDKERCHIEF PERFUMES, BOUQUETS, OR AROMATIC WATERS. - - -The manufacture of handkerchief perfumes is very simple: the extracts -prepared as directed in Chapter XI. are mixed in definite proportions -and the perfume is finished. If the extracts are well seasoned, the -perfumes blend in perfect harmony within a few days, and this time may -be even shortened by the use of the apparatus illustrated in Fig. 32. -If the extracts have been but recently prepared, a longer time will be -required before the odor of the alcohol and the several constituents is -imperceptible and all odors have blended into a harmonious whole. - -If the manufacturer can afford to allow the finished extracts and -perfumes to season for some length of time—of course, in well-closed -and completely filled vessels—in a cool place, they will improve -markedly in quality. Perfumes which contain but a single odor or in -which a certain odor distinctly predominates are usually called by -the name of the respective plant, etc., under a French title, _e.g._, -extrait de violette, extrait de reséda, etc. Combinations of many odors -which produce an agreeable impression as a whole, while no one odor -predominates, are called bouquets or waters; for instance, Bouquet de -Jockey Club, Eau de Mille Fleurs, Cologne Water, Hungarian Water, etc. - -The mixture of the extracts is effected in strong glass bottles of a -capacity exactly adapted to the perfume, so as to be completely filled. -For perfumes which require seasoning to make the odors blend we use -small glass balls of which enough are introduced into the bottle to -make the mixture rise into the neck of the container which is then -closed air-tight and preserved in a dark, cool place. - -Of course, all perfumes should be perfectly clear and free from -turbidity. The extracts made from pomades or essential oils are clear -and furnish perfumes that remain so; extracts prepared from balsams or -resins should be allowed to stand at rest for several weeks and then be -carefully decanted from the sediment. Filtration should be dispensed -with unless absolutely unavoidable, on account of the large amount of -oxygen with which the extract would thereby come in contact, to the -detriment of the odor. - -The bottles in which the perfumes are mixed, as well as those in which -they are put up for sale, must be perfectly dry, as a very small amount -of water often suffices to separate a portion of the aromatics and to -render the liquid turbid or opalescent. - -Fine perfumes are always sold in glass vessels with ground-glass -stoppers; cork has a peculiar odor which it would communicate to the -liquid. For the more perfect exclusion of the air the stoppers and -bottle necks are moreover covered with animal membrane, sheet rubber, -or vegetable parchment, with an outer cap of white glove leather. - -In the case of very expensive perfumes, much care is bestowed on the -container; certain perfumes are filled into bottles of peculiar form -and color, or into small porcelain jars provided with corresponding -labels printed in gold and colors. Sometimes the container costs many -times the price of the perfume. But as the finest perfumes are articles -of luxury in the truest sense of the word, they require extreme care -in their putting up; and good taste in the selection of the containers -for fluids, pomades, cosmetics, powders, etc., is of as much importance -to the perfumer as the possession of a sensitive and trained olfactory -organ. - -In the following formulas for the preparation of bouquets, the words -extract, essence, and tincture have the same meaning as was explained -under Chapter XI. For cheap perfumes the corresponding essential oils -dissolved in alcohol, that is, the corresponding “essence,” is employed -in place of the true “extract.” - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - -FORMULAS FOR HANDKERCHIEF PERFUMES. - - -BOUQUET DE L’ALHAMBRA. - - Extract of cassie 1 pint. - Extract of orange flower 1 pint. - Essence of geranium 1 qt. - Extract of tuberose 2 qts. - Tincture of civet 1 pint. - - -EXTRAIT D’AMBRE, I. - - Tincture of ambergris 3 qts. - Tincture of musk 1½ pints. - Oil of rose 1 oz. - Tincture of vanilla 13½ fl. oz. - Alcohol 3 pints. - - -EXTRAIT D’AMBRE, II. - - Essence of rose (triple) 2 qts. - Tincture of ambergris 4 qts - Tincture of musk 1 qt. - Tincture of vanilla 1 pint. - - -BOUQUET DE L’AMOUR. - - Extract of cassie 1 qt. - Tincture of ambergris 1 pint. - Extract of jasmine 1 qt. - Tincture of musk 1 pint. - Extract of rose 1 qt. - Extract of violet 1 qt. - - -BAISERS DU PRINTEMPS (SPRING KISSES). - - Extract of cassie 1 pint. - Tincture of ambergris 3 fl. oz. - Extract of jasmine 6 fl. oz. - Extract of rose 5 pints. - Extract of violet 5 pints. - Essence of rose (triple) 10 fl. oz. - Oil of bergamot 120 grains. - Oil of lemon 30 grains. - -_Note._ Here and in all succeeding formulas, “oil of lemon” is meant to -be the finest “hand-pressed” oil. - - -EAU DE BERLIN. - - Oil of anise 150 grains. - Oil of bergamot 1 oz. - Oil of cardamom 15 grains. - Oil of lemon 30 grains. - Oil of coriander 15 grains. - Oil of geranium 30 grains. - Oil of melissa 15 grains. - Oil of neroli 75 grains. - Oil of rose 30 grains. - Oil of santal 30 grains. - Oil of thyme 15 grains. - Alcohol 10 qts. - - -BUCKINGHAM FLOWERS. - - Extract of cassie 1 qt. - Tincture of ambergris 1 pint. - Extract of jasmine 1 qt. - Extract of orange flower 1 qt. - Extract of rose 1 qt. - Tincture of orris root 1 pint. - Oil of lavender 40 grains. - Oil of neroli 40 grains. - Oil of rose 75 grains. - - -BOUQUET D’ANDORRE. - - Extract of jasmine 1 pint. - Extract of rose 1 pint. - Extract of tuberose 1 pint. - Extract of violet 1 pint. - Tincture of orris root 1 pint. - Oil of geranium 75 grains. - - -BOUQUET DU BOSPHORE. - - Extract of cassie 1 qt. - Extract of jasmine ½ pint. - Extract of tuberose ½ pint. - Tincture of civet 18 grains. - Essence of rose (triple) ½ pint. - Oil of bitter almond 30 grains. - - -BOUQUET DES CHASSEURS. - - Extract of cassie 20 fl. oz. - Tincture of musk 20 fl. oz. - Extract of neroli 20 fl. oz. - Extract of orange flower 20 fl. oz. - Tincture of tonka bean 40 fl. oz. - Tincture of orris root 20 fl. oz. - Oil of lemon ½ oz. - Essence of rose (triple) 5 pints. - - -BOUQUET DE LA COUR. - - Tincture of ambergris 2 oz. - Extract of jasmine 1 qt. - Tincture of musk 2 oz. - Extract of rose 1 qt. - Extract of violet 1 qt. - Essence of rose (triple) 1 qt. - Oil of bergamot 45 grains. - Oil of lemon. 45 grains. - Oil of neroli 45 grains. - - -BOUQUET DE CHYPRE. - - Tincture of ambergris 1 qt. - Tincture of musk 1 qt. - Tincture of tonka 1 qt. - Tincture of vanilla 1 qt. - Tincture of orris root 1 qt. - Essence of rose (triple) 2 qts. - - -BOUQUET DES DÉLICES. - - Tincture of ambergris 1 pint. - Extract of rose 1 qt. - Extract of tuberose 1 qt. - Extract of violet 1 qt. - Tincture of orris root 1 pint. - Oil of bergamot ½ oz. - Oil of lemon 1 oz. - - -BOUQUET DE FLEURS (NOSEGAY). - - Tincture of benzoin 5½ oz. - Extract of rose 3 pints. - Extract of tuberose 3 pints. - Extract of violet 3 pints. - Oil of bergamot 2½ oz. - Oil of lemon 1¾ oz. - Oil of orange peel 1¾ oz. - - -CONVALLARIA (LILY OF THE VALLEY, FLEURS DE MAI). - - Extract of cassie 1½ pints. - Extract of jasmine 1½ pints. - Extract of orange flower 1½ pints. - Extract of rose 1½ pints. - Tincture of vanilla 3 pints. - Oil of bitter almond ⅜ oz. - -While this perfume is very pleasant, its odor has no resemblance to the -delicate fragrance of Convallaria majalis, our ordinary lily of the -valley. - - -COURONNE DE FLEURS (GARLAND OF FLOWERS). - - Extract of cassie 20 fl. oz. - Tincture of ambergris 13½ fl. oz. - Extract of jasmine 20 fl. oz. - Tincture of musk 13½ fl. oz. - Tincture of orris root 5 pints. - Oil of bergamot 1½ oz. - Oil of lavender 1½ oz. - Oil of clove 75 grains. - Oil of neroli 1½ oz. - Oil of rose 1½ oz. - Alcohol 5 pints. - - -COURT BOUQUET. - - Oil of bergamot ⅜ oz. - Oil of neroli 24 grains. - Alcohol 5½ oz. - Orris root 1 oz. - Storax, liquid 8 grains. - Musk 3 grains. - -Macerate for two weeks, and filter. - - -ESTERHAZY BOUQUETS. - -An old renowned perfume, a former rival of Cologne water; the name is -derived from a noble Hungarian family. - - -A. BOUQUET D’ESTERHAZY (FRENCH FORMULA). - - Tincture of ambergris ½ pint. - Extract of neroli 1 qt. - Extract of orange flower 1 qt. - Tincture of tonka 1 qt. - Tincture of vanilla 1 qt. - Tincture of vetiver 1 qt. - Tincture of orris root 1 qt. - Essence of rose (triple) 1 qt. - Oil of clove 75 grains. - Oil of santal 75 grains. - - -B. BOUQUET ESTERHAZY (GERMAN FORMULA). - - Calamus root 3 oz. - Cloves 3 oz. - Nutmeg 3 oz. - Alcohol 4 qts. - -Macerate for two weeks and filter; in the filtrate dissolve: - - Tincture of ambergris 6 oz. - Ammonia 30 grains. - Oil of bitter almond 30 grains. - Oil of lemon 3 oz. - Tincture of musk 6 oz. - Oil of neroli 60 grains. - Oil of orange peel 30 grains. - Oil of rose 75 grains. - - -CÈDRE DU LIBANON (CEDAR). - - Oil of cedar wood 10½ oz. - Extract of rose 1 pint. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -FIORI D’ITALIA. - - Extract of cassie 1 pint. - Tincture of ambergris 5 oz. - Extract of jasmine 1 qt. - Tincture of musk 5 oz. - Extract of rose 2 qts. - Extract of violet 1 qt. - Essence of rose (triple) 1 qt. - - -LILAC (EXTRAIT DE LILAS). - - Oil of bitter almond 15 grains. - Extract of orange flower 2 qts. - Extract of tuberose 3 qts. - Tincture of civet 2 to 3½ oz. - -The above-named ingredients are exceedingly volatile; according to the -desired permanence of the perfume, more or less of the extract of civet -is added. - - -ESSENCE DES BOUQUETS, A (ESS. BOUQUET). - - Tincture of ambergris 1 pint. - Tincture of orris root 2 qts. - Essence of rose (triple) 2 qts. - Oil of bergamot 4½ oz. - Oil of lemon 1 oz. - - -ESS. BOUQUET, B. - - Extract of cassie 1 oz. - Extract of jasmine 1 oz. - Tincture of musk 1½ oz. - Oil of cassia 1½ oz. - Oil of lemon ½ oz. - Oil of lavender 1 oz. - Oil of neroli ½ oz. - Oil of clove 1½ oz. - Oil of palmarosa 1 oz. - Oil of petit grain 1 oz. - Oil of Portugal 1 oz. - Oil of rose 75 grains. - Oil of thyme 75 grains. - Alcohol 10 qts. - -This perfume is much admired in England. The title Ess. Bouquet is an -abbreviation of the full name given above. - - -ESS. BOUQUET, C. - - Tincture of ambergris 2 oz. - Tincture of orris 8 oz. - Essence of rose (triple) 1 pint. - Oil of lemon ¼ oz. - Oil of bergamot 1 oz. - - -FLORIDA. - - Oil of bergamot 60 grains. - Oil of lemon 90 grains. - Oil of lavender 15 grains. - Oil of clove 8 grains. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -BOUQUET DE FLORE. - - Extract of rose 1 qt. - Extract of orange flower 1 pint. - Extract of tuberose 1 pint. - Extract of violet ½ pint. - Tincture of benzoin 3 fl. oz. - Tincture of storax 3 fl. oz. - Tincture of musk 1½ fl. oz. - Oil of citronella ¾ oz. - Alcohol 2 qts. - - -HONEYSUCKLE (EXTRAIT DE CHÈVRE-FEUILLE). - - Extract of rose 1 qt. - Extract of tuberose 1 qt. - Extract of violet 1 qt. - Tincture of tolu ½ pint. - Tincture of vanilla ½ pint. - Oil of bitter almond 15 grains. - Oil of neroli 8 grains. - - -HELIOTROPE, A (EXTRAIT DE HÉLIOTROPE). - - Extract of rose 2 qts. - Extract of orange flower 14 oz. - Tincture of ambergris 7 oz. - Tincture of vanilla 4 qts. - Oil of bitter almond 75 grains. - -A very lasting perfume which is especially suitable for scenting the -linen in a press. - - -HELIOTROPE, B. - - Vanilla 15 grains. - Oil of neroli 2 drops. - Oil of bitter almond 1 drop. - Musk 1½ grains. - Benzoin 45 grains. - Cologne spirit 3½ oz. - -Macerate for one week, and filter. - - -NEW-MOWN HAY. - -Hay owes its fragrance partly to cumarin, which is present in many -plants, but in especially large amount in tonka beans. Hence all -similar perfumes must contain tincture of tonka. Other aromatic -substances, however, contribute to the odor of hay, but the cumarin -gives, as it were, the keynote to its real odor. - -A very pleasant perfume is made after the following formula: - - Essence of rose (triple) 1 qt. - Essence of geranium 1 qt. - Extract of jasmine 1 qt. - Extract of orange flower 1 qt. - Extract of rose 1 qt. - Tincture of tonka 2 qts. - -Some add to this perfume 1 pint of extract of cassie which imparts a -greenish color to it. - - -ROYAL HORSE-GUARD’S BOUQUET. - - Extract of orange flower 20 fl. oz. - Tincture of musk 10 fl. oz. - Extract of rose 5 pints. - Tincture of vanilla 20 fl. oz. - Tincture of orris root 20 fl. oz. - Oil of clove 120 grains. - - -BOUQUET D’IRLANDE. - - Extract of white rose 5 qts. - Tincture of vanilla 1 lb. - -An exceedingly fine perfume. - - -HOVENIA. - -This plant, Hovenia dulcis, indigenous to Japan, has a peculiar odor, -which, however, is not pleasant to European taste. The perfume sold -under this name has a special odor, though it differs from that of the -plant. It is made according to the following formula: - - Oil of lemon 3 oz. - Oil of clove ¼ oz. - Oil of neroli 75 grains. - Oil of rose 75 grains. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -HUNTSMAN’S NOSEGAY. - - Essence of rose (triple) 1 pint. - Extract of cassie 6 fl. oz. - Extract of orange flower 6 fl. oz. - Tincture of musk 150 grains. - Tincture of tonka 1 pint. - Oil of citronella 150 grains. - Alcohol 3 qts. - - -BOUQUET DU JAPON. - - Extract of rose 1 qt. - Extract of orange flower 1 qt. - Essence of patchouly ½ pint. - Extract of verbena 1 pint. - Essence of vetiver 1 pint. - Tincture of civet 3 fl. oz. - Tincture of musk. ⅓ fl. oz. - - -EAU JAPONAISE. - - Tincture of cedar wood 1 qt. - Essence of patchouly 1 qt. - Extract of santal 1 qt. - Extract of verbena 1 qt. - Essence of vetiver 1 pint. - Essence of rose (triple) 1 qt. - - -JOCKEY CLUB. - -England first introduced a perfume under this name, which soon became -popular and was largely imitated. Jockey Club perfume is among the -finest known to the trade; the delicacy of its odor rests largely -on the extracts of cassie and tuberose which are employed in their -strongest form—an alcoholic extract of a pomade well charged with the -odors of the plants. As in the case of Cologne water, there are a -number of widely diverging formulas for its preparation, from which we -select a few which furnish excellent perfumes. - - -JOCKEY CLUB, A (ENGLISH FORMULA). - - Extract of cassie 1 pint. - Tincture of ambergris ¾ pint. - Extract of rose 1½ pints. - Extract of tuberose ¾ pint. - Tincture of orris root 3 pints. - Essence of rose (triple) 1½ pints. - Oil of bergamot ¾ oz. - - -JOCKEY CLUB, B (FRENCH FORMULA). - - Extract of cassie 1½ pints. - Extract of jasmine 2¼ pints. - Extract of rose 3 pints. - Extract of tuberose 3 pints. - Tincture of civet ½ pint. - - -JOCKEY CLUB, C (GERMAN FORMULA). - - Extract of cassie 1 qt. - Tincture of ambergris 13½ fl. oz. - Extract of jasmine 1 qt. - Extract of rose 1 pint. - Extract of tuberose 1 qt. - Extract of violet 1 pint. - Tincture of civet 20 fl. oz. - Oil of bergamot ¾ oz. - Oil of citronella ½ oz. - Oil of neroli ½ oz. - - -JONQUILLE (EXTRAIT DE JONQUILLE). - - Extract of jasmine 2 qts. - Extract of orange flower 1 qt. - Extract of tuberose 2 qts. - Tincture of vanilla ½ pint. - - -KISS ME QUICK. - - Extract of cassie 1 qt. - Extract of ambergris ½ pint. - Extract of narcissus (Jonquille) 2 qts. - Tincture of tonka 1 qt. - Tincture of orris root 2 qts. - Tincture of civet ½ pint. - Essence of rose (triple) 1 qt. - Oil of citronella 75 grains. - Oil of lemon grass 45 grains. - -This perfume, which was once very popular, owes its peculiar refreshing -odor to the tincture of tonka beans; by increasing this ingredient the -specific odor can be made more pronounced. - - -BOUQUET COSMOPOLITE. - - Extract of jasmine 1 pint. - Essence of lavender ½ pint. - Tincture of musk ½ pint. - Essence of patachouly ½ pint. - Extract of santal ½ pint. - Extract of tuberose 1 pint. - Tincture of vanilla ½ pint. - Extract of violet 1 qt. - Essence of rose (triple) 1 pint. - Oil of citronella 75 grains. - Oil of lemon ½ oz. - - -COLOGNE WATER (EAU DE COLOGNE). - -This famous perfume, which was first made in Cologne on the Rhine, -its formula being kept secret, can be produced anywhere of the same -quality as the original. In order to obtain a first-class product, it -is necessary, besides using the finest oils—a matter of course for all -fine perfumes—to observe another special point. Every Cologne water -contains oils of the citron group which develop their best odors only -in true spirit of _wine_. Unless an alcohol distilled from _wine_ -is used, it will be impossible to make a Cologne water of really -first quality. While it is possible to make a good cologne with grain -or potato spirit, especially if highly rectified, comparison with -one prepared from pure spirit of _wine_ will at once show a marked -difference. The small amount of œnanthic ether, hardly demonstrable by -chemical tests but present in every spirit of wine, exerts a decided -influence on the flavor. - -Cologne water of the most superior and incomparable quality is made -by dissolving the essential oils, excepting the oils of rosemary and -neroli, in the alcohol and distilling it, the other oils being added to -the distillate. - -A very large number of formulas for the preparation of Cologne water -have been published of which we subjoin a few. We have purposely -omitted those containing many essential oils, as experience has taught -us that they are of little value; for it is not the number of oils that -determines the fineness of a perfume, but the manner in which certain -odors are combined. - - -A. FINEST COLOGNE WATER (EAU DE COLOGNE SUPÉRIEURE). - - Oil of bergamot 2½ oz. - Oil of lemon (hand-pressed) 6 oz. - Oil of neroli pétale 3½ oz. - Oil of neroli bigarade 1¼ oz. - Oil of rosemary 2½ oz. - Alcohol 30 qts. - - -B. COLOGNE WATER (SECOND QUALITY). - - Oil of bergamot 4½ oz. - Oil of lemon 4½ oz. - Oil of neroli pétale ¾ oz. - Oil of orange peel 4½ oz. - Oil of petit grain 2½ oz. - Oil of rosemary 2½ oz. - Alcohol 30 qts. - - -C. COLOGNE WATER (ORDINARY). - - Oil of bergamot 7 oz. - Oil of lemon 3½ oz. - Oil of lavender 3½ oz. - Alcohol 30 qts. - - -D. COLOGNE WATER. - - Oil of bergamot 1¾ oz. - Oil of lemon 3½ oz. - Oil of lavender 150 grains. - Oil of neroli ½ oz. - Oil of rosemary 75 grains. - Alcohol 30 qts. - - -E. COLOGNE WATER. - - Oil of bergamot 2 oz. - Oil of lemon 1 oz. - Oil of lavender ½ oz. - Oil of melissa ¼ oz. - Oil of neroli ¼ oz. - Alcohol 30 qts. - - -F. COLOGNE WATER. - - Oil of bergamot 3½ oz. - Oil of lemon ½ oz. - Oil of lavender ¼ oz. - Oil of melissa ½ oz. - Oil of neroli ¼ oz. - Alcohol 30 qts. - - -G. COLOGNE WATER. - - Oil of bergamot 1 lb. - Oil of lemon 1 lb. - Oil of lavender 6½ oz. - Oil of neroli ¾ oz. - Oil of petit grain 1½ oz. - Oil of orange peel 1 lb. - Oil of rosemary 150 grains. - Alcohol 30 qts. - - -H. COLOGNE WATER. - -Oil of bergamot 2¼ oz. Oil of cajuput ½ oz. Oil of lemon 4½ oz. Oil of -lavender 6½ oz. Oil of neroli 2¼oz. Oil of orange peel 4½ oz. Oil of -petit grain ½ oz. Orange-flower water 1 qt. Alcohol 30 qts. - -The numerous formulas show that oils of lemon, bergamot, and orange -form normal constituents of every Cologne water; the finer grades -always contain, in addition, oils of rosemary and neroli. It is -advisable to dissolve the aromatics in very strong alcohol and then to -effect the dilution required with orange-flower or rose water. This -dilution is also to be employed when a cheaper product is desired. - - -LAVENDER PERFUMES. - -English (Mitcham) oil of lavender should always be used when it is -desired to produce perfumes of first quality. - - -EAU DE LAVANDE AMBRÉE. - - Oil of bergamot 1 oz. - Oil of lemon ½ oz. - Oil of geranium 75 grains. - Oil of lavender 5½ oz. - Musk 8 grains. - Peru balsam 2 oz. - Storax 4¼ oz. - Civet 15 grains. - Alcohol 10 qts. - -The essential oils are dissolved in the alcohol, the other substances -are macerated in the solution for one month, and the liquid decanted. - - -EAU DE LAVANDE DOUBLE. - - Tincture of musk 3 fl. oz. - Tincture of vanilla 3 fl. oz. - Tincture of civet 3 fl. oz. - Oil of bergamot 1¼ oz. - Oil of lemon ¾ oz. - Oil of lavender 3½ oz. - Rose water (triple) 1 qt. - Alcohol 10 qts. - - -EAU DE LAVANDE A MILLE FLEURS. - - Tincture of ambergris ½ pint. - Essence of lavender 2 qts. - Eau de mille fleurs (see below, page 186) 2 qts. - - -LEAP-YEAR BOUQUET. - - Extract of jasmine 3 pints. - Essence of patchouly 1½ pints. - Essence of santal 1½ pints. - Extract of tuberose 1 qt. - Extract of verbena 6½ fl. oz. - Essence of vetiver 1½ pints. - Essence of rose (triple) 1½ pints. - - -EAU DE LEIPSIC. - - Oil of lemon ¾ oz. - Oil of neroli ¾ oz. - Oil of orange peel 150 grains. - Oil of bergamot 2¼ oz. - Oil of rosemary 75 grains. - Orange-flower water 1 qt. - Alcohol 9 pints. - - -WALLFLOWER (EXTRAIT DE GIROFLÉ). - - Extract of cassie 1 pint. - Extract of orange flower 1 qt. - Extract of rose 1 qt. - Tincture of vanilla 1 pint. - Tincture of orris root 1 pint. - Oil of bitter almond 8 grains. - - -LILY (EXTRAIT DE LYS). - - Extract of cassie 3 pints. - Extract of jasmine 13½ fl. oz. - Extract of orange flower 27 fl. oz. - Extract of rose 1 pint. - Extract of tuberose 3 qts. - Tincture of vanilla 40 fl. oz. - Oil of bitter almond 30 grains. - - -EAU DE LISBONNE. - - Oil of lemon 2¼ oz. - Oil of orange peel 4½ oz. - Oil of rose ¼ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -MAGNOLIA (EXTRAIT DE MAGNOLIA). - - Extract of orange flower 2 qts. - Extract of rose 4 qts. - Extract of tuberose 1 qt. - Extract of violet 1 qt. - Oil of bitter almond 40 grains. - Oil of lemon 15 grains. - - -LILY OF THE VALLEY. - - Oil of bitter almond 150 grains. - Extract of jasmine 7 oz. - Extract of neroli 7 oz. - Extract of cassie 14 oz. - Extract of tuberose 28 oz. - Alcohol 28 oz. - - -LILY OF THE VALLEY EXTRACT. - - Extract of jasmine 3½ oz. - Extract of ylang-ylang (see below, p. 198) ½ oz. - Cardamom seed, crushed 75 grains. - Oil of orris 10 drops. - -Macerate for a week, and filter. - -The amount of cardamom seed is to be weighed exactly; should its odor -still be too pronounced, extract of jasmine should be gradually added -until the right aroma is obtained. - - -BOUQUET A LA MARÉCHALE. - - Tincture of ambergris ½ pint. - Tincture of musk ½ pint. - Extract of neroli 1 pint. - Extract of orange flower 1 qt. - Tincture of tonka 1 pint. - Tincture of vanilla 1 pint. - Tincture of orris root 1 pint. - Essence of vetiver 1 pint. - Essence of rose (triple) 1 qt. - Oil of clove 75 grains. - Oil of santal 75 grains. - - -A LA MODE. - - Extract of cassie 1 qt. - Extract of jasmine 1 qt. - Extract of orange flower 1 qt. - Extract of tuberose 1 qt. - Tincture of civet 1 pint. - Oil of bitter almond 75 grains. - Oil of nutmeg 60 grains. - - -A. EAU DE MILLE FLEURS. - - Extract of cassie 1 pint. - Essence of cedar 1 pint. - Extract of jasmine 1 pint. - Tincture of musk 6 fl. oz. - Extract of neroli 1 pint. - Extract of patchouly 1 pint. - Tincture of vanilla 1 pint. - Extract of violet 1 pint. - Essence of vetiver 1 pint. - Tincture of civet 6 fl. oz. - Oil of lemon ½ oz. - Oil of geranium ¾ oz. - Oil of lavender ¾ oz. - Oil of orange peel ½ oz. - - -B. EAU DE MILLE FLEURS. - - Extract of cassie 1 pint. - Tincture of ambergris ½ pint. - Essence of cedar ½ pint. - Extract of jasmine 1 pint. - Tincture of musk ½ pint. - Extract of orange flower 1 pint. - Extract of rose 1 pint. - Extract of tuberose 1 pint. - Tincture of vanilla ½ pint. - Extract of violet 1 pint. - Essence of rose (simple) 1 qt. - Oil of bergamot 1¼ oz. - Oil of bitter almond 24 grains. - Oil of clove 24 grains. - Oil of neroli 24 grains. - - -C. EAU DE MILLE FLEURS A PALMAROSE. - - Extract of cassie 6 fl. oz. - Essence of cedar 3 fl. oz. - Tincture of musk 3 fl. oz. - Extract of violet 6 fl. oz. - Oil of bergamot 1½ oz. - Oil of cedar 1¾ oz. - Oil of lemon ¼ oz. - Oil of lavender ¼ oz. - Oil of clove ¼ oz. - Oil of palmarosa ½ oz. - Alcohol 9 pints. - - -FLEURS DE MONTPELLIER. - - Tincture of ambergris 10 fl. oz. - Tincture of musk 10 fl. oz. - Extract of rose 3 pints. - Extract of tuberose 3 pints. - Essence of rose (triple) 3 pints. - Oil of bergamot 1¾ oz. - Oil of clove ¼ oz. - - -FLEURS DES CHAMPS. - - Extract of cassie 3½ oz. - Extract of jasmine 3½ oz. - Tincture of musk 3½ oz. - Tincture of tonka 3 pints. - Tincture of orris root 7 oz. - Oil of geranium 1½ oz. - Oil of neroli 1½ oz. - Oil of rose ⅞ oz. - Alcohol 3 qts. - - -HUILE DE MILLE FLEURS. - -(For perfuming hair oils and pomades.) - - Oil of cinnamon 10 drops. - Oil of neroli 20 drops. - Oil of rose 20 drops. - Oil of clove — - Oil of orange peel 15 grains. - Oil of calamus 20 drops. - Oil of geranium 150 grains. - Oil of lemon ½ oz. - Oil of bergamot 2½ oz. - Oil of verbena 75 grains. - - -MUSK (EXTRAIT DE MUSC). - - Tincture of ambergris 3 pints. - Tincture of musk 3 qts. - Extract of rose 1½ pints. - - -MOUSSELINE. - - Extract of cassie 1 qt. - Extract of jasmine 1 qt. - Extract of rose 1 qt. - Extract of tuberose 1 qt. - Bouquet à la maréchale 2 qts. - Oil of santal ¾ oz. - - -MYRTLE (EXTRAIT DE MYRTHE). - - Extract of jasmine ½ pint. - Extract of orange flower 1 qt. - Extract of rose 2 qts. - Extract of tuberose 1 qt. - Tincture of vanilla 1 qt. - - -NARCISSUS (EXTRAIT DE NARCISSE). - - Extract of jonquille 2 qts. - Extract of tuberose 3 qts. - Tincture of storax ½ pint. - Tincture of tolu ½ pint. - - -NAVY’S NOSEGAY. - - Extract of rose 1 qt. - Extract of orange flower 1 qt. - Essence of patchouly 3 fl. oz. - Extract of verbena 6 fl. oz. - Essence of vetiver 6 fl. oz. - Oil of bitter almond 150 grains. - Oil of citronella ¾ oz. - Oil of nutmeg 75 grains. - - -NEW-MOWN HAY. - - Tonka beans, in pieces 75 grains. - Orris root 150 grains. - Vanillin 8 grains. - Oil of bergamot 30 drops. - Oil of neroli 2 drops. - Oil of rose 2 drops. - Oil of lavender 2 drops. - Oil of clove 1 drop. - Patchouly herb 3 grains - Benzoic acid 8 grains. - Nettle herb 30 grains. - Alcohol 7½ oz. - -Digest for two weeks, and filter. - - -PINK (EXTRAIT D’ŒILLET). - - Extract of cassie 2½ pints. - Extract of orange flower 2½ pints. - Extract of rose 5 pints. - Tincture of vanilla 20 fl. oz. - Oil of clove 75 grains. - - -ESSENCE OF SWEET PEA. - - Extract of tuberose 1 qt. - Extract of orange flower 1 qt. - Extract of rose 1 qt. - Tincture of vanilla 5½ oz. - - -POLYANTHUS. - - Extract of rose 1 qt. - Extract of jasmine 1 pint. - Extract of violet ½ pint. - Tincture of musk 2½ fl. drachms. - Oil of neroli ¾ oz. - Oil of lemon ¾ oz. - Alcohol 2 qts. - - -EAU DU PORTUGAL. - - Oil of bergamot 1 oz. - Oil of lemon 2¼ oz. - Oil of orange peel ½ lb. - Oil of rose ¼ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -QUEEN VICTORIA’S PERFUME. - - Extract of cassie 10 fl. oz. - Extract of rose 5 pints. - Extract of orange flower 20 fl. oz. - Extract of tuberose 2½ pints. - Extract of violet 5 pints. - Tincture of civet 3 fl. oz. - Oil of bergamot ¾ oz. - Oil of citron 150 grains. - - -PATCHOULY (EXTRAIT DE PATCHOULI). - - Oil of patchouly 1½ oz. - Oil of rose 150 grains. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -ESSENCE OF RESEDA. - -(Artificial, almost indistinguishable from the genuine.) - - Tonka beans, in pieces 30 grains. - Storax, liquid 15 grains. - Orris root 1¾ oz. - Oil of neroli 10 drops. - Oil of rose 10 drops. - Oil of bitter almond 2 drops. - Oil of bergamot 20 drops. - Ambergris 15 grains. - Musk 8 grains. - Nettle herb 30 grains. - Alcohol ½ lb. - -Macerate for from one to two weeks, and filter. - - -RONDELETIA ODORATISSIMA. - - Tincture of ambergris 4¼ oz. - Tincture of musk 4¼ oz. - Tincture of vanilla 4¼ oz. - Oil of bergamot 1 oz. - Oil of lavender 2¼ oz. - Oil of clove 1¼ oz. - Oil of rose 75 grains. - Alcohol 4 qts. - -The odor of Rondeletia has not thus far been isolated, at least -in Europe (the plant is indigenous to the Antilles). The oils of -lavender and clove together constitute the odor known in perfumery as -Rondeletia. By increasing the quantity of the two oils, the strength of -the perfume may be heightened. - - -ROYAL NOSEGAY. - - Tincture of ambergris 2½ oz. - Extract of jasmine 1 qt. - Tincture of musk 3 fl. oz. - Extract of rose 1 qt. - Tincture of vanilla ½ pint. - Extract of violet 1 qt. - Essence of vetiver ½ pint. - Oil of bergamot 75 grains. - Oil of clove 1¾ oz. - - -ROSE ODORS. - -The art of perfumery has endeavored to fix this most magnificent of -all odors, and we must confess that in this case it has succeeded in -solving the problem in a manner unequalled in any other perfume. We -are able to imitate not only the pure rose odor, but also those of its -several varieties such as the tea rose, moss rose, etc., both as to -character and intensity. Fine rose odors can be produced in their full -fragrance only from pomade extracts; the various rose oils furnish -inferior products. - - -ROSA CENTIFOLIA, A (FINEST QUALITY). - - Essence of rose (triple) 1 qt. - Rose pomade 8 lbs. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -ROSE, B (LESS FINE). - - Oil of rose 3½ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -CHINA ROSE (ROSES JAUNES). - - Essence of rose (triple) 2 qts. - Tincture of tonka ½ pint. - Extract of tuberose 2 qts. - Extract of verbena ½ pint. - - -DOG ROSE (EGLANTINE). - - Extract of cassie 2½ pints. - Extract of orange flower 2½ pints. - Extract of rose 5 pints. - Essence of rose (triple) 2½ pints. - Oil of lemon-grass ¼ oz. - Oil of neroli ¼ oz. - - -MOSS ROSE (ROSE MOUSSEUSE). - - Extract of rose 2 qts. - Extract of orange flower 1 qt. - Essence of rose (triple) 1 qt. - Tincture of ambergris 1 pint. - Tincture of musk ½ lb. - - -TEA ROSE (ROSE THÉA). - - Extract of rose 1 qt. - Extract of geranium 1 qt. - Extract of orange flower ½ pint. - Essence of rose (triple) 1 qt. - Extract of santal ½ pint. - Tincture of orris root ½ pint. - - -WHITE ROSE (ROSES BLANCHES). - - Extract of rose 1 qt. - Extract of jasmine 1 pint. - Extract of violet 1 qt. - Essence of patchouly ½ pint. - Essence of rose (triple) 1 qt. - - -WHITE ROSE. - - Oil of rose 15 drops. - Patchouly herb 3 grains. - Musk 3 grains. - Cologne spirit 7 oz. - - -TWIN ROSE (ROSES JUMELLES). - - Extract of rose 5 qts. - Oil of rose 1¾ oz. - - -SPRING NOSEGAY. - - Extract of cassie 1 qt. - Tincture of ambergris 13½ fl. oz. - Essence of geranium 1 qt. - Extract of jasmine 1 qt. - Extract of orange flower 2 qts. - Tincture of musk 10 fl. oz. - - -SUAVE. - - Extract of cassie 1 qt. - Tincture of ambergris ¼ pint. - Extract of jasmine 1 qt. - Tincture of musk ¼ pint. - Extract of rose 1 qt. - Extract of tuberose 1 qt. - Tincture of vanilla ¾ pint. - Oil of bergamot ½ oz. - Oil of clove 30 grains. - Oil of mace 30 grains. - - -HELIOTROPE BOUQUET (FLEURS SOLSTICIALES). - - Extract of cassie 13½ fl. oz. - Tincture of ambergris 5 fl. oz. - Extract of jasmine 2½ pints. - Tincture of musk 5 fl. oz. - Extract of rose 5 pints. - Extract of violet 2½ pints. - Extract of verbena 13½ fl. oz. - Essence of rose (triple) 2½ pints. - Oil of bergamot 1½ oz. - Oil of lemon 1½ oz. - - -BOUQUET DE STAMBOUL. - - Extract of rose 2½ pints. - Extract of cassie 1 qt. - Extract of jasmine 1 qt. - Extract of tuberose 1 pint. - Tincture of civet ½ pint. - Oil of bitter almond 150 grains. - - -SYRINGA. - - Extract of reseda 1¾ oz. - Extract of violet 3½ oz. - Patchouly herb 5 grains. - Benzoic acid 8 grains. - Oil of orris 10 drops. - Alcohol 1¾ oz. - - -TULIPE ODORIFÉRANTE. - - Extract of cassie 6 fl. oz. - Extract of jasmine 1 qt. - Extract of rose 1 pint. - Extract of tuberose 1 qt. - Tincture of orris root 1 qt. - Oil of bitter almond 15 grains. - Oil of neroli 30 grains. - - -HUNGARIAN WATER (EAU HONGROISE). - - Extract of orange flower 1 pint. - Essence of rose (triple) 1 pint. - Oil of lemon 1 oz. - Oil of melissa 1 oz. - Oil of peppermint 30 grains. - Oil of rosemary 2 oz. - Alcohol (from wine) 5 qts. - - -BOUQUET DE VIRGINIE. - - Essence of geranium 1 pint. - Tincture of musk 1 qt. - Extract of orange flower 1 qt. - Extract of santal 1 pint. - Tincture of tonka 1 qt. - Tincture of vanilla 1 qt. - Essence of rose (triple) 1 pint. - - -VIOLET (VIOLETTES). - - Violet pomade 6 to 7 lb. - Extract of cassie 6 fl. oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -This is the finest among the true violet perfumes. Less fine, though -still of prime quality, is the following: - - Extract of cassie 2 qts. - Extract of rose 1 qt. - Extract of tuberose 1 qt. - Tincture of orris root 1 qt. - Oil of bitter almond 15 grains. - - -VERBENA A (EXTRAIT DE VERVEINE). - - Oil of lemon grass ½ oz. - Oil of lemon 14 oz. - Oil of orange peel 3½ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -A cheap and pleasant perfume: the following is far superior. - - -VERBENA B. - - Oil of lemon 10½ oz. - Oil of lemon grass 6 oz. - Oil of orange peel 5 oz. - Extract of orange flower 2 lb. - Extract of rose 3 lb. - Extract of tuberose 2 lb. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -This “Extract of Verbena B” is a modification of that given previously, -on page 164. - - -EXTRAIT DE VERVEINE C. - - Extract of orange flower 30 fl. oz. - Extract of rose 1 qt. - Extract of tuberose 30 fl. oz. - Oil of lemon 1 oz. - Oil of lemon grass ¾ oz. - Oil of orange peel ¼ lb. - Alcohol 4½ pints. - - -VIOLETTES DES MONTAGNES. - - Extract of cassie 13½ fl. oz. - Extract of jasmine 13½ fl. oz. - Extract of rose 13½ fl. oz. - Extract of violet 2 qts. - Tincture of orris root 13½ fl. oz. - Oil of bitter almond 30 grains. - - -VOLCAMERIA. - - Extract of jasmine 1 pint. - Extract of rose 1 qt. - Extract of tuberose 2 qts. - Extract of violet 2 qts. - Tincture of musk ½ pint. - - -FOREST BREEZE (PINE-NEEDLE ODOR.) - - Oil of turpentine 14 oz. - Oil of lavender 1½ oz. - Oil of lemon grass ¾ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - -The oil of turpentine must be clear like water, and most carefully -rectified. If it can be obtained of good quality, the oil distilled -from the leaves or needles of Pinus sylvestris, commonly known as -pine-needle oil or fir-wool oil, is to be preferred for this purpose. -Still better is the oil obtained from Pinus Pumilio. - - -WEST END. - - Extract of cassie 1 qt. - Tincture of ambergris ½ pint. - Extract of jasmine 1 qt. - Tincture of musk ½ pint. - Extract of tuberose 1 qt. - Extract of violet 1 qt. - Essence of rose (triple) 3 pints. - Oil of bergamot 1 oz. - Oil of lemon 75 grains. - - -WINTERGREEN. - - Extract of cassie 1 qt. - Tincture of ambergris 1 pint. - Extract of lavender 1 pint. - Extract of orange flower 1 qt. - Extract of rose 2 qts. - Tincture of vanilla 1 pint. - Essence of vetiver 1 pint. - - -FLOWERS OF THE ISLE OF WIGHT. - - Extract of rose 1 qt. - Extract of santal 2 qts. - Tincture of orris root 1 qt. - Essence of vetiver 1 pint. - - -YACHT CLUB. - - Extract of cassie 6 fl. oz. - Extract of jasmine 1 qt. - Extract of orange flower 2 qts. - Extract of santal 2 qts. - Tincture of vanilla 1 pint. - Essence of rose (triple) 1 qt. - Benzoic acid, sublimed 1½ oz. - -The characteristic odor of this perfume depends upon the volatile oil -adhering to the sublimed benzoic acid; for this reason no other benzoic -acid should be used than that obtained by sublimation. - - -YLANG-YLANG. - - Cologne water 4 qts. - Essence of rose (triple) 1 qt. - Tincture of vanilla 3½ oz. - Tincture of tolu 14 oz. - Oil of neroli 75 grains. - Oil of ylang-ylang ¾ oz. - - -APPENDIX. - -The great majority of the above-described perfumes are made with -extracts prepared from pomades; hence their cost of production is -considerable and the selling-price high. For the requirements of the -middle classes, quite fragrant perfumes are manufactured by dissolving -the cheaper essential oils in ordinary alcohol, and various new odors -can be obtained by mixing several of them. The extracts made with cheap -oils are well suited to this purpose. The oils most frequently used -for such articles are those of bergamot, lemon, orange peel, lavender -flowers (French), lemon grass, nutmeg, clove, and santal. The alcohol -must be free from fusel oil and have a strength of at least 70% Tralles. - -Oils with not very intense odor are generally used in the proportion of -about 2 to 2½ ounces to the quart of alcohol; half that quantity will -suffice for strong-scented oils such as those of lemon-grass, clove, -and nutmeg. - -From these simple solutions an experienced manufacturer can produce -very nice perfumes by mixing them in due proportions; they are -comparatively cheap, and sometimes they yield relatively more profit -than the finest articles, whose contents and containers generally -represent a considerable outlay on the part of the manufacturer. - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - -AMMONIACAL AND ACID PERFUMES. - - -A. AMMONIACAL PERFUMES. - -Ammonia (ammonia water) has a disagreeable odor and exerts a very -caustic effect on the lachrymal glands. Despite these properties, -ammonia, in a highly dilute condition and mixed with other aromatics, -finds manifold application in perfumery and serves particularly for the -manufacture of the so-called smelling salts, or inexhaustible salts, -used for filling smelling bottles. - -The liquid or caustic ammonia, however, is not so suitable for the -purposes of the perfumer as the carbonate of ammonia, which when pure -forms colorless crystals usually covered with a white dust (consisting -of bicarbonate of ammonia); these, undergoing gradual decomposition, -give off the odor of ammonia and hence are more lasting in smelling -bottles than the pure liquid ammonia. - -The main essential for both of these substances is purity. Caustic -ammonia as well as carbonate of ammonia are now obtained on a large -scale from “gas liquor,” but the crude products always retain some of -the penetrating odor of coal tar which renders them valueless for the -purposes of the perfumer. We must, therefore, make it a rule to use -nothing but perfectly pure materials which, moreover, are easily to be -had in the market. - - -INEXHAUSTIBLE SALT (SEL INÉPUISABLE). - - Oil of bergamot 24 grains. - Oil of lavender 45 grains. - Oil of mace 24 grains. - Oil of clove 24 grains. - Oil of rosemary 45 grains. - Water of ammonia 1 qt. - -The aromatics are placed in a bottle, the ammonia is added, and the -bottle vigorously shaken; the solution is soon effected, and the turbid -liquid can be at once filled into bottles. - -According to the material from which the containers are made, different -methods must be adopted. It is necessary to give the liquid such form -as to prevent its flowing out when the vessel is inverted; this is -important, as the bottles are often carried in dress pockets and the -ammonia destroys most colors. As a rule the vessels are filled with -indifferent porous substances which are moistened with the perfume. -If the container is made of box wood, ivory, porcelain, or some -other opaque material, it is filled with fibres of asbestos or with -very small pieces of sponge, and as much perfume is poured in as the -substance can take up; the vessels are then inverted into a porcelain -plate and allowed to drain, and are finally closed with a loose plug of -cotton. If the container is transparent, it is better to use, instead -of the asbestos or sponge which do not look neat, either small pieces -of white pumice stone, powdered glass, small white glass beads, or -crystals of sulphate of potassium which is insoluble in the perfume. - - -WHITE SMELLING SALT (SEL BLANC PARFUMÉ). - -While the first-named ammoniacal preparation is called a salt, it is -really nothing but perfumed caustic ammonia; but white smelling salt is -what its name indicates and can be perfumed as desired by the consumer; -but as only certain scents harmonize with ammonia, not every odor can -be employed; the most appropriate are oils whose odor resembles that of -rose, and the oils of nutmeg and cinnamon. - -Mix in a large porcelain jar— - - Carbonate of ammonia 2 lb. - Caustic ammonia 1 lb. - -Cover the jar and leave it at rest. After some days the mixture will -have changed into a firm mass of monocarbonate of ammonia which is -rubbed to a coarse powder, perfumed, and filled into bottles. The above -quantities require: - - Oil of bergamot 15 grains. - Oil of lavender 15 grains. - Oil of nutmeg 8 grains. - Oil of clove 8 grains. - Oil of rose 8 grains. - Oil of cinnamon 75 grains. - -The oils are poured into a mortar and rubbed up with about one-tenth of -the salt; of this perfumed salt enough is added to the several portions -of the mass, and triturated until the odor is equally distributed. For -cheaper smelling salts oils of geranium and cassia may be substituted -for the oils of rose and cinnamon. - - -PRESTON SALT (SEL VOLATIL). - -In this perfume ammonia is continually generated; the salt is prepared -by mixing chloride of ammonium or sal-ammoniac in fine powder with -freshly slaked lime. Fine or cheap perfume is added, according to the -grade desired. The mixture of sal-ammoniac and slaked lime continually -develops small amounts of ammonia—it takes a long time until the -decomposition is complete, and for this reason a bottle filled with -Preston salt retains the odor of ammonia for several years. - - -EAU DE LUCE. - -This is the only ammoniacal perfume used in a liquid form. It is made -according to the following formula: - - Tincture of ambergris 10½ oz. - Tincture of benzoin ½ lb. - Oil of lavender 150 grains. - Water of ammonia 1½ lb. - -The tinctures are mixed with the ammonia by agitation and immediately -filled into bottles; the liquid should have a milky appearance. At -times 150 grains of white soap is added which aids in imparting to the -liquid the desired milky appearance. In fine eau de Luce the odor of -ambergris should predominate; this can be easily effected by increasing -the amount of tincture of ambergris. - - -B. ACID PERFUMES. - -As there is a group of perfumes which is distinguished by their -characteristic odor of ammonia and which we have therefore called -ammoniacal, so there is an important series of articles containing -acetic acid which are used cosmetically as so-called toilet vinegars, -and in some washes. - -Ordinary vinegar, _i.e._, water containing four to six per cent of -acetic acid, has, as is well known, a not unpleasant refreshing odor -and a pure acid taste. Pure acetic acid, now made in large quantities -and of excellent quality, is known commercially as glacial acetic acid. -In commerce, it is customary to designate any acetic acid containing -85 or more per cent of the absolute acid, as glacial acetic acid. In -chemical or pharmacopœial nomenclature, however, the glacial acid is -meant to be as near 100% as possible. In perfumery, an 85% acid is -sufficiently strong. It forms a colorless liquid with a narcotic odor -and an intensely acid taste; it congeals into glassy crystals at a -temperature of 8.5° C. (47° F.). The latter property is of importance -as showing the purity of the acid. Concentrated acetic acid, like -alcohol, dissolves aromatic substances, with which it forms perfumes -which differ from those made with alcohol mainly by their peculiar -refreshing after-odor which is due to the acetic acid. - -Acetic acid can be saturated with various odors and thus furnish fine -perfumes; but for so-called toilet vinegars which are used as washes -the acetic acid must be properly diluted, since the concentrated acid -has pronounced caustic properties, reddens the skin, and may even -produce destructive effects on sensitive parts such as the lips. - - -AROMATIC VINEGAR (VINAIGRE AROMATIQUE). - - Glacial acetic acid 2 lb. - Camphor 4¼ oz. - Oil of lavender ¾ oz. - Oil of mace 150 grains. - Oil of rosemary 150 grains. - -Instead of the perfumes here given, finer odors may be employed for the -production of superior toilet vinegars; thus we find vinaigre ambré, -au musc, à la violette, au jasmin, etc., according to the perfume used. -As concentrated acetic acid dissolves most aromatic substances the -same as alcohol, all alcoholic perfumes may have their counterparts in -acetic acid; but the aromatics should never be added in so large amount -as to mask the characteristic odor of the acetic acid. A very pleasant -vinegar may be produced by combining an alcoholic with an acid perfume, -as in the following: - - -SPICED VINEGAR (VINAIGRE AUX ÉPICES). - - 1. Macerate: - Leaves of geranium, lavender, peppermint, - rosemary, and sage, of each 1 oz. - In alcohol of 80% 1 lb. - - 2. Macerate: - Angelica root, calamus root, camphor, - mace, nutmeg, cloves, of each ½ oz. - In glacial acetic acid 2 lb. - -for two weeks, mix the liquids, and filter them into a bottle which -should not be completely filled. The longer this mixture is allowed to -season in the bottle, the finer will be the aroma; for in the course of -time the alcohol and acetic acid react on each other and form acetic -ether, which likewise possesses a pleasant aromatic odor. - -Certain aromatic vinegars, like ammoniacal perfumes, are filled into -smelling bottles containing the same porous substances for their -absorption, namely, sponge, pumice stone, crystals of potassium -sulphate, etc. - - -FORMULAS FOR TOILET VINEGARS. - -VINAIGRE A LA ROSE. - - Essence of rose (triple) 10½ oz. - White-wine vinegar 1 qt. - -This should be colored a pale rose tint with one of the dye-stuffs -to be enumerated hereafter. The use of true wine vinegar is to be -recommended for this and all the following toilet vinegars, as the -œnanthic ether it contains has a favorable effect on the fineness of -the odor. - - -VINAIGRE AUX FLEURS D’ORANGES. - - Extract of orange flower 7 oz. - White-wine vinegar 1 qt. - -This is usually left colorless. - - -VINAIGRE AUX VIOLETTES. - - Extract of cassie 8 oz. - Extract of orange flower 3½ oz. - Tincture of orris root 5½ oz. - Essence of rose (triple) 5½ oz. - White-wine vinegar 1 qt. - - -VINAIGRE DE QUATRE VOLEURS. - - Leaves of lavender, peppermint, rue, rosemary, - and cinnamon, of each 3¼ oz. - Calamus, mace, nutmeg, of each 150 grains. - Camphor ¾ oz. - Macerated in alcohol 7 oz. - And acetic acid 4¾ lb. - - -PREVENTIVE VINEGAR (VINAIGRE HYGIÉNIQUE). - - Benzoin 2¼ oz. - Lavender ¾ oz. - Cloves 150 grains. - Marjoram ¾ oz. - Cinnamon 150 grains. - Alcohol 1 qt. - White-wine vinegar 2 qts. - -Macerate the solids with the alcohol and vinegar. - - -VINAIGRE DE COLOGNE. - - Cologne water 1 qt. - Glacial acetic acid 1¾ oz. - -As this vinegar is made by mixing an alcoholic perfume with acetic -acid, so all other alcoholic perfumes may be employed for a like -purpose; but the quantities must be determined by experiment, for the -various aromatics differ in the intensity of their odor. - - -VINAIGRE ÉTHERÉ. - - Glacial acetic acid 14 oz. - Acetic ether 1½ oz. - Nitrous ether ¾ oz. - Water 5 qts. - -The water should be added after the ethers have been dissolved in the -glacial acetic acid. - - -VINAIGRE DE LAVANDE. - - Lavender water 4 qts. - Rose water 1 pint. - Glacial acetic acid ½ lb. - -To be stained a bluish color with indigo-carmine. - - -ORANGE-FLOWER VINEGAR. - - Orange-flower water 4 qts. - Glacial acetic acid 7 oz. - - -MALLARD’S TOILET VINEGAR. - - Tincture of benzoin 1½ oz. - Tincture of tolu 1½ oz. - Oil of bergamot 150 grains. - Oil of lemon 150 grains. - Oil of neroli 30 grains. - Oil of orange peel ½ oz. - Oil of lavender 15 grains. - Oil of rosemary 15 grains. - Tincture of musk 15 grains. - Concentrated acetic acid 21 oz. - Alcohol 4¾ lb. - - -TOILET VINEGAR (FRENCH FORMULA). - - Oil of bergamot 30 grains. - Oil of lemon 30 grains. - Oil of rose 8 drops. - Oil of neroli 5 drops. - Benzoin 75 grains. - Vanillin 15 grains. - Concentrated acetic acid ½ oz. - Alcohol ½ lb. - -Macerate for two weeks, and filter. - - -VINAIGRE POLYANTHE. - - Glacial acetic acid 7 oz. - Tincture of benzoin 1¾ oz. - Tincture of tolu 1¾ oz. - Oil of neroli 150 grains. - Oil of geranium 150 grains. - Water 2 qts. - -To be stained with tincture of krameria (rhatany). - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - -DRY-PERFUMES. - - -As a matter of course, dry perfumes are of greater antiquity than -fluid; aromatic substances require merely to be dried in order to -retain their fragrance permanently. The oldest civilized people known -in history—Egyptians, Assyrians, Persians, Babylonians, and the Jews, -as numerous passages in the Bible prove—used dried portions of plants, -leaves, flowers, and resins as perfumes and incense. - -To this day there is kept up quite a trade in Valeriana celtica, a -strong-scented Alpine plant, and in powdered amber, with the Orient, -where they are used for scent bags and incense respectively. The -Catholic Church retains to the present time the Jewish rite of -burning incense, and in our museums will be found urns, taken from -Egyptian graves, from which pleasant odors escape even now after -nearly four thousand years, owing to the aromatic resins with which -they are filled. It is said, too, that the delightful volatile odors -of our handkerchief perfumes were first prepared by an Italian named -Frangipanni conceiving the idea of treating a dry mixture of different -aromatic plants with alcohol and thus imparting the odor they contained -to the latter. - -Not all aromatics can be made into sachet powders; it is well known -that the delightful odor of violets changes into a positively -disagreeable smell when the flowers are dried, and the same remark -applies to the blossoms of the lily of the valley, mignonette, lily, -and most of our fragrant plants. On the other hand, some portions of -plants, especially those in which the odorous principle is contained -not only in the flower but in all parts of the plant, as in the mints, -sage, and most Labiatæ, remain fragrant for a long time after drying -and hence can be employed for sachets. Besides the plants named, -lavender, rose leaves, the leaves of the lemon and orange tree, Acacia -farnesiana, patchouly herb, and some other plants continue fragrant -after drying. - -Any vegetable substance to be used for sachets must be completely dried -so as to prevent mould. The drying should be effected in a warm, shady -place, sometimes in heated chambers; direct sunlight and excessive -heat injure the strength of the odor, a portion of the aromatics -becoming resinified and volatilized. If artificial heat is employed, a -temperature between 40 and 45° C. (104-113° F.) is most suitable. - -The external form of this class of preparations varies of course with -the public for which it is intended. Expensive sachets are sold in silk -bags with different ornamentation; those intended for the Orient are -generally put up as small silk cushions richly ornamented with gold -and colors to suit Oriental taste. Cheap sachets are sold in envelopes -or in round boxes. It is customary to have the ingredients ground or -finely powdered, for which purpose small hand-mills will generally -suffice. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII. - -FORMULAS FOR DRY PERFUMES (SACHETS). - - -CEYLON SACHET POWDER. - - Mace 23 oz. - Patchouly 28 oz. - Vetiver root 35 oz. - Oil of orange peel 1¾ oz. - Oil of peppermint 3½ oz. - - -CYPRIAN SACHET POWDER. - - Cedar wood 2 lb. - Rhodium 2 lb. - Santal wood 2 lb. - Oil of rhodium ½ oz. - -The oil is mixed with the finely powdered or rasped woods and -distributed in the mass by trituration. - - -FIELD FLOWER SACHET POWDER. - - Calamus root 1 lb. - Caraway ½ lb. - Lavender 1 lb. - Marjoram ½ lb. - Musk 30 grains. - Cloves 2¾ oz. - Peppermint ½ lb. - Rose leaves 1 lb. - Rosemary 3½ oz. - Thyme ½ lb. - - -FRANGIPANNI SACHET POWDER. - - Musk 1 oz. - Sage ½ lb. - Santal wood ½ lb. - Orris root 6 lb. - Vetiver ½ lb. - Civet ¼ oz. - Oil of neroli 75 grains. - Oil of santal 75 grains. - Oil of rhodium 75 grains. - - -HELIOTROPE SACHET POWDER. - - Musk ½ oz. - Rose leaves 2 lb. - Tonka beans 1 lb. - Vanilla ½ lb. - Orris root 4 lb. - Oil of bitter almond 30 grains. - - -INDIAN SACHET POWDER. - - Santal wood 3½ oz. - Orris root 21 oz. - Cinnamon 10½ oz. - Oil of lavender 75 grains. - Cloves 30 grains. - Oil of rose 150 grains. - - -LAVENDER SACHET POWDER. - - Benzoin 1 lb. - Lavender flowers 4 lb. - Oil of lavender 1 oz. - Oil of rose 75 grains. - - -MARSHAL SACHET POWDER. - - Cassia ½ lb. - Musk 75 grains. - Cloves ½ lb. - Rose leaves ½ lb. - Santal wood 1 lb. - Orris root 1 lb. - - -MILLE FLEURS SACHET POWDER. - - Benzoin 1 lb. - Lavender 1 lb. - Musk 30 grains. - Cloves 4½ oz. - Allspice 2½ oz. - Rose leaves 1 lb. - Santal wood 4¼ oz. - Tonka beans 4¼ oz. - Vanilla 4½ oz. - Orris root 1 lb. - Civet 30 grains. - Cinnamon ½ oz. - - -MUSLIN SACHET POWDER. - - Benzoin ½ lb. - Santal wood 1 lb. - Thyme 1 lb. - Orris root 1 lb. - Vetiver root 2 lb. - Oil of geranium 75 grains. - - -OLLA PODRIDA. - -This name is applied in Spain to a dish prepared from various remnants -of food. The olla podrida of the perfumer is made from the remnants of -the aromatic vegetable substances after their extraction with alcohol, -petroleum ether, etc. Although vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, etc., be -repeatedly extracted, they still retain their characteristic odor, -though somewhat fainter, and thus they can be used with advantage for -sachet powders intended for filling bags, cushions, etc. If mixed in -corresponding proportions, they can be made use of for all the sachets -here enumerated. No definite formula can be given for a peculiar dry -perfume to be called Olla podrida; the olfactory organ is the best -guide. - - -PATCHOULY POWDER. - - Patchouly herb 2 lb. - Oil of patchouly 30 grains. - Musk 15 grains. - -The musk is rubbed up with gradually increased quantities of the -patchouly herb and with the addition of the oil of patchouly; the -intimate mixture of the powder saturated with musk and oil of patchouly -and the rest of the powder is effected by prolonged stirring of the two -powders in a large vessel. The same process is followed with all other -dry powders in which a small amount of a solid with intense odor or of -an essential oil is to be mixed with a large quantity of powder. - - -PERSIAN SACHET POWDER. - - Musk 30 grains. - Rose leaves 1 lb. - Tonka beans 3½ oz. - Orris root 2 lb. - Oil of nutmeg 75 grains. - Oil of clove 75 grains. - Oil of rose 150 grains. - Oil of cinnamon 75 grains. - - -PORTUGAL POWDER. - - Lemon peels 1 lb. - Orange peels 2 lb. - Orris root 1 lb. - Cinnamon 3½ oz. - Oil of lemon grass 150 grains. - Oil of neroli 150 grains. - Oil of orange peel 2½ oz. - - -POTPOURRI. - -Many widely differing perfumes are sold in the market under this name; -a good formula for its preparation is the following: - - Lavender 1 lb. - Cloves 2½ oz. - Allspice 2½ oz. - Rose leaves 1 lb. - Reseda 1¾ oz. - Orris root ½ lb. - Vanilla 150 grains. - Cinnamon 1¾ oz. - Sand, or table salt, etc. 1 lb. - -The admixture of fine white sand, table salt, or powdered glass or -marble, etc., is made merely for the purpose of increasing the weight. - - -ROSE SACHET POWDER, A. - - Geranium herb 3½ oz. - Rose leaves 2 lb. - Santal wood 1 lb. - Oil of rose ½ oz. - - -ROSE SACHET POWDER, B. - - Rose leaves 2 lb. - Santal wood 1 lb. - Oil of rose 1 oz. - - -SANTAL POWDER, - -which is simply finely rasped santal wood, is also sometimes sold as -rose sachet powder when it has received an addition of some oil of -geranium. - - -VIOLET SACHET POWDER. - - Benzoin ½ lb. - Musk 30 grains. - Orange flowers 1¾ oz. - Rose leaves 1 lb. - Orris root 2 lb. - Oil of bitter almond 75 grains. - Oil of lemon grass 30 grains. - - -VIOLET SACHET POWDER. - - Orris root, powdered 1 lb. - Musk 8 grains. - Vanillin 30 grains. - Oil of rose 25 drops. - Oil of petit grain 150 grains. - Cologne water 3½ oz. - -Mix intimately in a porcelain mortar. - - -VERBENA SACHET POWDER. - - Lemon peels 1 lb. - Caraway ½ lb. - Orange peels 1 lb. - Oil of bergamot 1¾ oz. - Oil of lemon 1¾ oz. - Oil of lemon grass 75 grains. - - -VETIVER SACHET POWDER. - - Vetiver root 2 lb. - Musk 15 grains. - Civet 20 grains. - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - -THE PERFUMES USED FOR FUMIGATION. - - -According to the use made of them, perfumes for fumigation may be -divided into two groups: those which develop their fragrance on being -burned, and those which do so on being merely heated. The former group -includes pastils and ribbons, the latter fumigating powders and waters. - - -FUMIGATING PASTILS. - -_French_—Pastilles fumigatoires; _German_—Räucherkerzen. - -Pastils consist in the main of charcoal to which enough saltpetre is -added to make the lighted mass glow continuously and leave a pure -white ash. To this mass are added various aromatic substances which are -gradually volatilized by the heat and fill the surrounding air with -their perfume. It is important to observe that only ordinary saltpetre -(nitrate of potassium) is to be used for this purpose, and not the -so-called Chili saltpetre (nitrate of sodium) which becomes moist in -the air. For ordinary pastils finely rasped fragrant woods such as -cedar or santal are frequently employed. During the slow combustion, -however, the wood gives off products of a pungent or disagreeable -odor such as acetic acid and empyreumatic products, which lessen the -fragrance. Fine pastils are composed of resins and essential oils and -are usually formed into cones two-fifths to four-fifths of an inch -high, by being pressed in metal moulds. - -Fumigating pastils are manufactured as follows. Each solid ingredient -is finely powdered by itself, and the necessary quantities are then put -into a wide porcelain dish and intimately mixed with a flat spatula. -In order to confine the dust, the dish is covered with a cloth during -this operation. The mixture being completed, the essential oils are -added, together with enough mucilage of acacia to form a plastic mass -to be kneaded with the pestle, and which after drying will have a -sufficiently firm consistence. - - -PASTILLES ORIENTALES. - - Charcoal 1½ lb. - Saltpetre 3½ oz. - Benzoin ½ lb. - Powdered amber 3½ oz. - Tolu balsam 2¾ oz. - -The charcoal for this and all other pastils should be made from soft -woods (willow, poplar, etc.). The characteristic of these pastils is -the amber they contain (the offal from manufactories is used) and which -on ignition gives off a peculiar odor much prized in the Orient, -rather than in Europe or America. - - -PASTILLES DU SÉRAIL. - - Charcoal 1½ lb. - Saltpetre 3½ oz. - Benzoin ½ lb. - Santal wood 5½ oz. - Opium 1¾ oz. - Tolu balsam 2¾ oz. - -This formula is here given as usually quoted. It may be stated, -however, that the opium may be omitted entirely, as it neither -contributes to the fragrance, nor produces, by being burned in this -manner, any of the supposed exhilarating or intoxicating effects which -it may produce when used in other forms or employed in other ways. - - -BAGUETTES ENCENSOIRES (FUMIGATING PENCILS). - - Benzoin 14 oz. - Charcoal 1¾ oz. - Peru balsam 1 oz. - Storax 2 oz. - Shellac 3½ oz. - Olibanum 5½ oz. - Civet 75 grains. - Oil of bergamot 1 oz. - Oil of orange peel 1 oz. - Oil of santal ¾ oz. - -Melt the benzoin, charcoal, shellac, and olibanum in a bright iron pan -at the lowest possible heat; take the pan from the fire and add the -other ingredients, heat being again applied from time to time to keep -the mass in a liquid state. The plastic mass is rolled out on a marble -slab into rods the thickness of a lead pencil. Such a pencil need be -but lightly passed over a hot surface to volatilize the aromatics it -contains. - - -PASTILLES ODORIFÉRANTES. - - Charcoal 2 lb. - Saltpetre 3½ oz. - Benzoin 1½ lb. - Cloves 7 oz. - Tolu balsam 7 oz. - Vanilla 7 oz. - Vetiver root 7 oz. - Cinnamon 3½ oz. - Oil of neroli 150 grains. - Oil of santal ¾ oz. - -This and the following formula give the finest mixtures for pastils. - - -PASTILLES ENBAUMÉES. - - Charcoal 2 lb. - Saltpetre 2¾ oz. - Benzoic acid, sublimed 1 lb. - Musk 15 grains. - Civet 15 grains. - Oil of lemon grass 30 grains. - Oil of lavender 15 grains. - Oil of clove 15 grains. - Oil of thyme 30 grains. - Oil of cinnamon 30 grains. - - -POUDRE D’ENCENS (INCENSE POWDER). - - Benzoin ½ lb. - Cascarilla ½ lb. - Musk 15 grains. - Santal wood 1 lb. - Saltpetre 3½ oz. - Vetiver root 5½ oz. - Olibanum 1 lb. - Cinnamon 5½ oz. - -Dissolve the saltpetre in water, saturate the powders with the -solution, dry the mass, and again reduce it to powder. This powder, -strewn on a warm surface such as the top of a stove, takes fire -spontaneously and gradually disappears. - - -FUMIGATING PAPERS AND WICKS (BRUGES RIBBONS). - -_French_—Papier à fumigations. Ruban de Bruges; -_German_—Räucherpapiere. Räucherbänder. - -Fumigating papers are strips impregnated with substances which become -fragrant on being heated; such a strip need merely be placed on a stove -or held over a flame in order to perfume a whole room. Fumigating -papers are divided into two groups: those meant to be burned, and those -meant to be used repeatedly. The former, before being treated with -aromatics, are dipped into saltpetre solution; the latter, in order to -render them incombustible, are first dipped into a hot alum solution so -that they are only charred by a strong heat, but not entirely consumed. - - -A. INFLAMMABLE FUMIGATING PAPER. - -Papier Fumigatoire Inflammable. - -The paper is dipped into a solution of 3½ to 5½ ounces of saltpetre in -water; after drying it is immersed in a strong tincture of benzoin or -olibanum and again dried. An excellent paper is made according to the -following formula: - - Benzoin 5½ oz. - Santal wood 3½ oz. - Olibanum 3½ oz. - Oil of lemon grass 150 grains. - Essence of vetiver 1¾ oz. - Alcohol. 1 qt. - -For use, the paper is touched with a red-hot substance, not a flame. It -begins to glow at once without bursting into flame, giving off numerous -sparks and a pleasant odor. - - -B. NON-INFLAMMABLE FUMIGATING PAPER. - -Papier Fumigatoire Permanent. - -This paper is prepared by dipping it in a hot solution of 3½ oz. of -alum in one quart of water; after drying, it is saturated with the -following mixture: - - Benzoin 7 oz. - Tolu balsam 7 oz. - Tincture of tonka 7 oz. - Essence of vetiver 7 oz. - Alcohol 20 fl. oz. - -This paper, when heated, diffuses a very pleasant odor and can be used -repeatedly. It does not burn, and strong heat only chars it. Some -manufacturers make inferior fumigating papers by dipping the alum paper -simply in melted benzoin or olibanum. - - -C. FUMIGATING RIBBONS - -are nothing but fine flat lamp wicks treated first with saltpetre -solution and then with the preceding mixture. The wick is rolled up and -placed in a vessel provided with a lamp burner. It is inserted in the -burner like any other wick and when lighted burns down to the metal and -goes out unless screwed up higher. Fumigating vessels provided with -these wicks are very practical because, if artistic in form, they form -quite an ornament to the room and can be instantly set in operation. A -French formula gives the following mixture for saturating the wicks: - - Benzoin 1 lb. - Musk ¾ oz. - Myrrh 3½ oz. - Tolu balsam 3½ oz. - Tincture of orris root 1 pint. - Oil of rose 15 grains. - - -FUMIGATING WATERS AND VINEGARS (EAUX ENCENSOIRES, VINAIGRES -ENCENSOIRES). - -These fluids are nothing but strong solutions of various aromatics in -alcohol, a few drops of which suffice, if evaporated on a warm plate, -to perfume a large room. The following is a good formula for fumigating -water. - - Benzoin 7 oz. - Cascarilla 3½ oz. - Cardamoms 3½ oz. - Mace 1¾ oz. - Musk 150 grains. - Peru balsam 1¾ oz. - Storax 1¾ oz. - Tolu balsam 1¾ oz. - Olibanum 3½ oz. - Orris root 14 oz. - Civet 150 grains. - Cinnamon 7 oz. - Oil of bergamot 1½ oz. - Oil of lemon 1½ oz. - Oil of geranium ¾ oz. - Oil of lavender ¾ oz. - Oil of neroli 150 grains. - Alcohol 2 qts. - -Of course, this liquid must be filtered after prolonged maceration. -By adding to it 1½ oz. of glacial acetic acid we obtain the so-called -fumigating vinegar which is very useful for expelling bad odors. - - -FUMIGATING POWDERS (POUDRES ENCENSOIRES). - -These powders which need only to be heated in order to diffuse one -of the most pleasant odors, are easily prepared by intimately mixing -the ground solids with the oils by means of a spatula. We add three -renowned formulas for the manufacture of such powders. - - -A. POUDRE IMPÉRIALE. - - Benzoin 3½ oz. - Cascarilla 1¾ oz. - Lavender 1¾ oz. - Rose leaves 1¾ oz. - Santal wood 1¾ oz. - Olibanum 3½ oz. - Orris root 3½ oz. - Cinnamon 1¾ oz. - Oil of lemon 75 grains. - Oil of clove 30 grains. - Oil of patchouly 15 grains. - - -B. POUDRE DE LA REINE. - - Benzoin 7 oz. - Cedar wood 1 lb. - Cinnamon 14 oz. - Lavender 10½ oz. - Rose leaves 10½ oz. - Patchouly herb 3½ oz. - Vetiver root 3½ oz. - Civet 150 grains. - Oil of bergamot ¾ oz. - Oil of lemon ¾ oz. - Oil of neroli 150 grains. - Oil of clove 150 grains. - - -C. POUDRE ROYALE. - - Cinnamon ½ lb. - Cloves ½ lb. - Orris root 12½ oz. - Storax 12½ oz. - Lavender 1 lb. - Oil of clove ⅜ oz. - Oil of lavender ⅜ oz. - Oil of bergamot ⅛ oz. - Oil of lemon ⅛ oz. - - - - -APPENDIX. - -SOME SPECIALTIES. - - -Besides the preparations enumerated in the preceding pages, we find -in perfumery some products which are in favor on account of their -fragrance and are suitable for scenting ladies’ writing-desks, -sewing-baskets, boxes, and similar objects. They find their most -appropriate use in places where an aromatic odor is desired, while -there is no room for keeping the substances themselves. These must -therefore be put into a small compass, and the aromatics chosen should -be distinguished by great intensity and permanence of odor. - -We subjoin a few formulas for the manufacture of such specialties, and -add the remark that besides the aromatics there given other substances -may be used in their preparation; but that the presence of benzoin, -musk, or civet, even in small amount, is always necessary, since these -substances, as above stated, not only possess an intense and permanent -odor, but have the valuable property of imparting lasting qualities to -more volatile odors. - -It is a good plan, too, to keep on hand two kinds of these -specialties—one containing musk, the other none—for the reason that -the musk odor is as disagreeable to some persons as it is pleasant to -others. - - -SPANISH SKIN (PEAU D’ESPAGNE, SPANISCH LEDER). - -The article sold under this name resembles in some respects sachets or -scent bags and is made as follows. - -Take a piece of wash-leather (chamois), trim it to a square shape, and -leave it for three or four days in the following mixture: - - Benzoin ½ lb. - Oil of bergamot ¾ oz. - Oil of lemon ¾ oz. - Oil of lemon grass ¾ oz. - Oil of lavender ¾ oz. - Oil of nutmeg 150 grains. - Oil of clove 150 grains. - Oil of neroli 1½ oz. - Oil of rose 1½ oz. - Oil of santal 1½ oz. - Tincture of tonka ¾ oz. - Oil of cinnamon 150 grains. - Alcohol 1 qt. - -At the end of the time named remove the leather from the liquid, let it -drain, spread it on a glass plate, and when dry coat it on the rough -side, by means of a brush, with a paste prepared in a mortar from the -following ingredients: - - Benzoic acid, sublimed 150 grains. - Musk 15 grains. - Civet 15 grains. - Gum acacia 1 oz. - Glycerin ¾ oz. - Water 1¾ oz. - -The leather is then folded in the centre, smoothed with a paper-knife, -put under a weight, and allowed to dry. The dried leather forms the -so-called perfume skin which retains its fine odor for years. Instead -of the above alcoholic liquids any desired alcoholic perfume may be -used; especially suitable are those containing oils of lemon grass, -lavender, and rose, since they are not very volatile, and when combined -with musk and civet remain fragrant for a long time. A sufficiently -large piece of perfume skin inserted in a desk pad or placed among the -paper will make the latter very fragrant. Spanish skin is chiefly used -for this purpose, as well as for work, glove, and handkerchief boxes, -etc. It is generally inclosed in a heavy silk cover. - -If leather be thought too expensive, four to six layers of -blotting-paper may be perfumed in the same way and properly inclosed. -Thin layers of cotton wadding between paper can also be thus perfumed -and used for filling pin cushions, etc. - - -SPANISH PASTE. - -Mix the following substances intimately in a porcelain mortar, and add -water drop by drop until a doughy mass results. - - Ambergris ¾ oz. - Benzoin 1½ oz. - Musk ¾ oz. - Vanilla ¾ oz. - Orris root ¾ oz. - Cinnamon ¾ oz. - Oil of bergamot 1½ oz. - Oil of rose ¾ oz. - Gum acacia 1½ oz. - Glycerin 1½ oz. - -This paste, divided into pieces about the size of a hazelnut, is -used for filling the so-called cassolettes or scent boxes which are -carried in the pocket, etc., like smelling bottles. Owing to its pasty -consistence this preparation can be used for perfuming jewelry (small -quantities are inserted within the diamond settings), fine leather -goods, belts, and other articles. It is unnecessary to lengthen the -list; every practical perfumer will know what objects need perfuming. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX. - -HYGIENIC AND COSMETIC PERFUMERY. - - -Perfumery is not merely called upon to act in an æsthetic direction and -gladden the senses; it has another and more important aim, that is, -to aid in some respects the practice of medicine. It is not necessary -to point out that in this sense, too, it acts in an æsthetic way; for -health and beauty are one and inseparable. - -The field relegated to perfumery with reference to hygiene is -extensive, comprising the care of the skin, the hair, and the mouth. -But we also find in commercial perfumery articles which possess no -medicinal effect and serve merely for beautifying some parts of the -body, for instance, paints and hair dyes. As it is not possible to -separate perfumes with hygienic effects from cosmetics, we shall -describe the latter in connection with the former. - -To repeat, hygienic perfumery has to deal with such substances as have -really a favorable effect on health. No one will deny that soap takes -the first place among them. Soap promotes cleanliness, and cleanliness -in itself is essential to health. But it would exceed the scope of this -work were we to treat in detail of the manufacture of soap and its -employment in the toilet; we must confine ourselves to some specialties -exclusively made by perfumers and into the composition of which soap -enters. We do so the more readily since perfumers are but rarely in -a position to make soap, and in most cases find it more advantageous -to buy the raw material, that is, ordinary good soap, from the -manufacturer and to perfume it. - -Next to soap in hygienic perfumery stand the so-called emulsions and -creams (crêmes) which are excellent preparations for the skin and -pertain to the domain of the perfumer. - -The human skin consists of three distinct parts: the deepest layer, the -subcutaneous cellular tissue which gradually changes into true skin; -the corium or true skin (the thickest layer); and the superficial scarf -skin or epidermis which is very thin and consists largely of dead and -dying cells; these are continually shed and steadily reproduced from -the corium. - -The skin contains various depressions, namely, the sudoriparous glands -which excrete sweat; the sebaceous glands which serve the purpose -of covering the skin with fat and thereby keep it soft, glossy, and -supple; and lastly the hair follicles which contain the hairs, an -appendage to the skin. - -The main object of hygienic perfumery with reference to the skin is to -keep these glandular organs in health and activity; it effects this by -various remedies which, besides promoting the general health, improve -the appearance of the skin. - -As a special group of preparations is intended exclusively for the -care of the skin, so another class is devoted to the preservation of -the hair, and still another to the care of the mouth and its greatest -ornament, the teeth. Accordingly the preparations belonging under this -head will be divided into three groups—those for the skin, the hair, -and the mouth. - - - - -CHAPTER XX. - -PREPARATIONS FOR THE CARE OF THE SKIN. - - -GLYCERIN. - -Pure glycerin is a substance that has a powerful beautifying effect on -the skin, by rendering it white, supple, soft, and glossy; no other -remedy will clear a sun-burnt skin in so short a time as glycerin. -An excellent wash may be made by the perfumer by mixing equal parts -of thick, colorless glycerin and orange-flower water (or some other -aromatic water with fine odor), possibly giving it a rose color by the -addition of a very small amount of fuchsine. Concentrated glycerin must -not be used as a wash, because it abstracts water from the skin and -thereby produces a sensation of heat or burning. - -Besides common soap, the so-called emulsions, meals, pastes, vegetable -milks and creams are the best preparations for the care of the skin; -in perfumery they are even preferable to soap in some respects because -they contain not only substances which have a cleansing effect like any -soap, scented or not, but at the same time render the skin clearer, -more transparent, and more supple. - - -EMULSIONS. - -Many perfumers make a definite distinction between two groups -of emulsions which they call respectively “emulsions” and “true -emulsions.” By “emulsions” they mean masses which have the property -of changing on contact with water into a milky fluid or becoming -emulsified; the term “true emulsions” is applied to such preparations -as already contain a sufficient amount of water and therefore have a -milky appearance. Hence the difference between the two preparations -lies in the lesser or greater quantity of water, and is so variable -that we prefer to describe them under one head. - -The cause of the milky appearance of the emulsions on coming in contact -with water is that they contain, besides fat, substances which possess -the property of keeping the fat suspended in form of exceedingly minute -droplets which make the entire fluid look like milk. As a glance -through the microscope shows, the milk of animals consists of a clear -fluid in which the divided fat droplets (butter) float; these by their -refractive power make the milk appear white. - -While soaps always contain a certain quantity of free alkali, a -substance having active caustic properties, emulsions include very -little if any alkali, and, since they possess the same cleansing power -as soap without its disadvantages with reference to the skin, their -steady use produces a warm youthful complexion, as well as smoothness -and delicacy of the skin. - -Glycerin is of special importance in the composition of emulsions. -Besides the above-mentioned property of this substance of keeping -the skin soft and supple, it acts as a true cosmetic by its solvent -power of coloring matters: a skin deeply browned by exposure to the -sun is most rapidly whitened by the use of glycerin alone. Moreover, -glycerin prevents the decomposition of the preparations and keeps them -unchanged for a long time. This quality has a value which should not be -underestimated; for all emulsions are very apt to decompose and become -rancid owing to the finely divided fat they contain. Under ordinary -conditions, only complete protection against light and air can retard -rancidity, which is accompanied by a disagreeable odor not to be masked -by any perfume; an addition of glycerin, which we incorporate in all -emulsions, makes them more permanent owing to the antiseptic property -of this substance. - -Recent years, however, have made us acquainted with a substance which -in very minute quantities—one-half of one per cent of the mass to be -preserved by it—prevents decomposition and rancidity of fats. This is -salicylic acid, a chemical product which, being harmless, tasteless, -and odorless, should be employed wherever we wish to guard against -destructive influences exerted by air, fermentation, etc. While -formerly all emulsions were made only in small amounts, just sufficient -for several weeks’ use, salicylic acid enables us to manufacture -larger quantities at once and to keep them without much fear of their -spoiling. However, even the presence of salicylic acid is no guaranty -against deterioration, if other precautions are neglected. The products -should be kept in well-stoppered bottles or vessels, in a cool and -dark place. All substances cannot be preserved by salicylic acid, -and there are certain ferments or fungi which resist the action of -salicylic acid. If chloroform is not objectionable in any of these -preparations—and only so much is necessary as can be held in actual -_solution_ by the liquid, on an average three drops to the ounce—this -preservative is preferable to salicylic acid. - -The only fats used in the preparation of emulsions are expressed oil -of almonds, olive oil, and lard. Almond oil is best made by immediate -pressure of the bruised fruits, since fresh almond meal likewise finds -application in perfumery; olive oil and lard must be very carefully -purified. This is done by heating them for one hour with about ten -times the quantity of water containing soap (one per cent of the -quantity of fat to be purified). They are then treated five or six -times with pure warm water until the latter escapes quite neutral. If -the water turns red litmus paper blue, it would indicate the presence -of free alkali (soap); if it turns blue litmus paper red, it would -prove the presence of free fatty acids (rancid fat). Either one of -these substances, especially the latter, would injure the quality -of the product. The fat should be absolutely neutral and have no -influence on either kind of litmus paper; then its quality may be -pronounced perfect. - - - - -CHAPTER XXI. - -FORMULAS FOR THE PREPARATION OF EMULSIONS, MEALS, PASTES, VEGETABLE -MILK, AND COLD-CREAMS. - - -A. Emulsions. - -AMANDINE. - -_Almond Cream._—Melt ten pounds of purified lard in an enamelled iron -pot or a porcelain vessel, and while increasing the temperature add -little by little five pounds of potash lye of 25% strength, stirring -all the time with a broad spatula. When fat and lye have become a -uniform mass, 2¾ to 3½ ounces of alcohol is gradually added, whereby -the mixture acquires a translucent, crystalline appearance. Before the -alcohol is added three-fourths to one ounce of oil of bitter almond -is dissolved in it. The soapy mass thus obtained is called “almond -cream” (crême d’amandes) and may be used alone for washing. For making -Amandine take of— - - Expressed oil of almonds 10 lb. - Almond cream 3½ oz. - Oil of bergamot 1 oz. - Oil of bitter almond 1½ oz. - Oil of lemon 150 grains. - Oil of clove 150 grains. - Oil of mace 150 grains. - Water 1¾ oz. - Sugar 3½ oz. - -In the manufacture the following rules should be observed. - -Effect the mixture in a cool room, the cellar in summer, a fireless -room in winter. Mix the ingredients in a shallow, smooth vessel, best -a large porcelain dish, using a very broad, flat stirrer with several -holes. The sugar is first dissolved in the water and intimately mixed -with the almond cream. The essential oils are dissolved in the almond -oil contained in a vessel provided with a stop-cock. The oil is first -allowed to run into the dish in a moderate stream under continual -stirring. The mass soon grows more viscid, and toward the end of the -operation the flow of oil must be carefully restricted so that the -quantity admitted can be at once completely mixed with the contents of -the dish. Well-made amandine must be rather consistent and white, and -should not be translucent. If translucency or an oily appearance is -observed during the mixture, the flow of oil must be at once checked -or enough almond cream must be added to restore the white appearance, -under active stirring. - -As amandine is very liable to decompose, it must be immediately filled -into the vessels in which it is to be kept, and the latter, closed -air-tight, should be preserved in a cool place. By adding ¾ ounce of -salicylic acid, amandine may be made quite permanent so that it can be -kept unchanged even in a warm place. - -We have described the preparation of amandine at greater length -because its manufacture requires some technical skill and because the -preparation of all other cold-creams corresponds in general with that -of amandine. - - -GLYCERIN EMULSIONS. A. GLYCERIN CREAM. - - Glycerin ½ lb. - Almond oil 14 oz. - Rose water 12½ oz. - Spermaceti 3½ oz. - Wax 480 grains. - Oil of rose 60 grains. - -Melt the wax and spermaceti by gentle heat, then add the almond oil, -next the glycerin mixed with the rose water, and lastly the oil of -rose which may also be replaced by some other fragrant oil or mixture. -If the preparation is to be used in summer, it is advisable to increase -the wax by one-half, thus giving the mass greater consistence. - - -B. GLYCERIN JELLY. - - Glycerin 2 lb. - Almond oil 6 lb. - Soap 5½ oz. - Oil of orange peel 150 grains. - Oil of thyme ¾ oz. - -Mix the soap with the glycerin, gradually add the oil (as for -amandine), and finally the aromatics. - - -JASMINE EMULSION. - - Huile antique de jasmin 2 lb. - Almond cream 5½ oz. - Expressed oil of almond 4 lb. - Water 5½ oz. - Sugar 2¾ oz. - -Mix in the same order as given under Amandine. - - -TUBEROSE EMULSION. - - Huile antique des tubéroses 1¾ to 2 lb. - Almond cream 5½ oz. - Expressed oil of almond 4 lb. - Water 5½ oz. - Sugar 2¾ oz. - - -VIOLET EMULSION. - - Huile antique des violettes 2 to 3 lb. - Almond cream 5½ oz. - Expressed oil of almond 4 lb. - Water 5½ oz. - Sugar 2¾ oz. - -In place of the huiles antiques named (_i.e._, fine oils saturated with -the odors of the corresponding flowers) any other huile antique may -be used and the cream then called by the name of the flower whose odor -it possesses. Such creams with genuine huiles antiques are among the -finest preparations known in perfumery and of course are high-priced, -owing to the cost of the huiles antiques. - - -OLIVINE. - - Gum acacia ½ lb. - Yolk of egg 10 yolks. - Olive oil 4 lb. - Soap 7 oz. - Water 8 oz. - Sugar 5½ oz. - Oil of bergamot 2 oz. - Oil of lemon 2 oz. - Oil of clove 1 oz. - Oil of orange peel ¾ oz. - Oil of thyme 75 grains. - Oil of cinnamon 75 grains. - -The gum, sugar, water, and yolk of eggs are first intimately mixed and -gradually added to the olive oil containing the essential oils. - - -B. Meals and Pastes. - -The so-called meals (farines) and pastes (pâtes) really consist of -the flour of fatty vegetable substances which possess the property of -forming an emulsion with water and are frequently used in washes. As -they are free from alkali, they are the most delicate preparations of -the kind and are especially suitable for washing the face or sensitive -hands. - - -SIMPLE ALMOND PASTE (PÂTE D’AMANDES SIMPLE). - - Bitter almonds 6 lb. - Alcohol 2 qts. - Rose water 4 qts. - Oil of bergamot 10½ oz. - Oil of lemon 3½ oz. - -Put the bitter almonds in a sieve, dip them for a few seconds in -boiling water, when they can be easily deprived of their brown skin; -carefully bruise them in a mortar, and place them in a glazed pot set -in another kept full with boiling water; pour over them two quarts of -the rose water heated to near the boiling-point. Keep up the heat under -continual stirring until the almond meal and rose water form a uniform -mass free from granules; in other words, until the meal is changed into -paste. The pot is now allowed to cool somewhat, when the rest of the -rose water and the oils dissolved in alcohol are added. Almond paste -should have a uniform, butter-like consistence if the first part of the -operation has been carefully performed. - - -ALMOND AND HONEY PASTE (PÂTE D’AMANDES AU MIEL). - - Bitter almonds 2 lb. - Yolk of egg 30 yolks. - Honey 4 lb. - Expressed oil of almond 4 lb. - Oil of bergamot 1 oz. - Oil of lemon ¾ oz. - Oil of clove ¾ oz. - -Decorticate and bruise the bitter almonds and add them with the -essential oils to the mixed yolks, honey, and almond oil. - - -ALMOND MEAL (FARINE D’AMANDES). - - Almond meal 4 lb. - Orris root, powdered 5½ oz. - Oil of lemon 1 oz. - Oil of bitter almond 150 grains. - Oil of lemon grass 75 grains. - -Almond meal here means the bran left after expressing the oil from -sweet almonds. First mix the powdered orris root intimately with the -essential oils and triturate the mass with the almond bran. Other -essential oils may also be used for perfuming the mass. - - -PISTACHIO MEAL (FARINE DE PISTACHES). - - Pistachio nuts 4 lb. - Orris root, powdered 4 lb. - Oil of lemon 1¾ oz. - Oil of neroli 150 grains. - Oil of orange peel 1 oz. - -The pistachio nuts are blanched in the same manner as almonds (see -under Simple Almond Paste), and then reduced to a meal. - - -C. Vegetable Milk. - -The several varieties of vegetable milk are merely emulsions containing -sufficient water to give them a milky appearance. They are used as such -for washes and are in great favor. Owing to the larger amount of water -they contain, they are more liable to decompose than the preparations -described above, since the fats present in them easily become rancid on -account of their fine division in the milk. - -In order to render these preparations more stable, they receive an -addition of about five to ten per cent of their weight of pure glycerin -which enhances their cosmetic effect. The addition of about one-half -of one per cent of salicylic acid is likewise to be recommended, as it -makes them more stable. - -In the following pages we shall describe only the most important of -these preparations usually made by the perfumer. In this connection we -may state that by slightly modifying the substances used to perfume -them, new varieties of vegetable milk can be easily prepared. - -Every vegetable milk consists in the main of a base of soap, wax, -and spermaceti, and an aromatic water which gives the name to the -preparation. This composition is intended to keep suspended the fatty -vegetable substances (almond or pistachio meal, etc.), thus producing a -milky appearance. - -Vegetable milks are made as follows. - -Melt the soap with the wax and spermaceti at a gentle heat. Prepare -a milk from the vegetable substance and the aromatic water (_e.g._, -_unexpressed_ almonds and rose water) by careful trituration, strain it -through fine silk gauze into the vessel containing the melted mixture -of soap, wax, and spermaceti, stir thoroughly, let it cool, and add the -alcohol holding in solution the essential oils, the glycerin (and the -salicylic acid), under continual stirring. The alcohol must be added in -a very thin stream, otherwise a portion of the mass will curdle. The -coarser particles contained in the milk must be allowed to settle by -leaving the preparation at rest for twenty-four hours, when the milk -can be carefully decanted from the sediment and filled into bottles for -sale. - - -LILAC MILK (LAIT DE LILAS). - - Soap 2¼ oz. - Wax 2¼ oz. - Spermaceti 2¼ oz. - Sweet almonds 1 lb. - Lilac-flower water 4½ pints. - Huile antique de lilas 2½ oz. - Alcohol (80-85% Tralles) 2 lb. - -In place of lilac-flower water and huile antique de lilas, lilacin -(terpineol) may be used, a sufficient quantity (about 1 oz.) being -dissolved in the alcohol. But the lilacin must be pure and of clean -odor. - - -VIRGINAL MILK (LAIT VIRGINAL). - -This preparation differs from all other milks sold in perfumery in that -it consists of some aromatic water with tincture of benzoin and tolu. -In making it, pour the aromatic water in a very thin stream into the -tincture under vigorous stirring. If the water flows in too rapidly, -the resins present in the tincture separate in lumps; but if slowly -poured in, the resins form minute spheres which remain suspended. -The preparation is named after the aromatic water it contains: Lait -virginal de la rose, à fleurs d’oranges, etc. Its formula is: - - Tincture of benzoin 2 oz. - Tincture of tolu 2¾ oz. - Aromatic water 4 qts. - - -CUCUMBER MILK (LAIT DE CONCOMBRES). - - Soap 1 oz. - Olive oil 1 oz. - Wax 1 oz. - Spermaceti 1 oz. - Sweet almonds 1 lb. - Cucumber juice (freshly expressed) 4½ pints. - Extract of cucumber 1 pint. - Alcohol 2 lb. - - -DANDELION MILK. - - Soap 2¼ oz. - Olive oil 2¼ oz. - Wax 2¼ oz. - Sweet almonds 1 lb. - Extract of tuberose 1 lb. - Rose water 5 pints. - Dandelion juice 5 oz. - -Dandelion juice is the bitter milk sap of the root of the common -dandelion (Leontodon taraxacum); it should be expressed immediately -before use. The rose water may be replaced by some other aromatic water -or even ordinary water; but the latter should be distilled, otherwise -the lime it contains would form an insoluble combination with the soap. - - -BITTER-ALMOND MILK (LAIT D’AMANDES AMÈRES). - - Bitter almonds 2¼ oz. - Soap 2¼ oz. - Expressed oil of almond 2¼ oz. - Wax 2¼ oz. - Spermaceti 2¼ oz. - Rose water 4 qts. - Alcohol 3 pints. - Oil of bitter almond ½ oz. - Oil of bergamot 1 oz. - Oil of lemon ½ oz. - - -ROSE MILK (LAIT DE ROSES). - - Olive oil 2¼ oz. - Soap 2¼ oz. - Wax 2¼ oz. - Spermaceti 2¼ oz. - Sweet almonds 4 lb. - Oil of rose 150 grains. - Rose water 4 qts. - Alcohol 1 pint. - - -PISTACHIO MILK (LAIT DE PISTACHES). - - Soap. 2¼ oz. - Olive oil 2¼ oz. - Wax 2¼ oz. - Spermaceti 2¼ oz. - Pistachio nuts 14 oz. - Oil of neroli ¾ oz. - Orange-flower water 6 qts. - Alcohol 1 qt. - - -D. Cold-Creams and Lip Salves. - -In the main they resemble in their composition the emulsions and -vegetable milks, but differ by their thick consistence which renders -them suitable for being rubbed into the skin. Cold-creams are really -salves perfumed with one of the well-known odors which give them their -names. Fat forms the basis of these mixtures and gives them their -hygienic effect, as it imparts fulness and softness to the skin. Every -well-made cold-cream should have the consistence of recently congealed -wax and should yield to the pressure of the finger like pomatum. -It should be noted that the addition of very thick glycerin will -increase the effect of the cold-cream and improve its fine transparent -appearance; but this substance must be added with great care, otherwise -the mass will not possess the required firmness. - -In making cold-cream, a mixture of wax, spermaceti, and expressed -almond oil must be combined with an aromatic water and an essential -oil. The first part of the operation is easy; the wax and spermaceti -are melted at the lowest possible temperature, and the almond oil is -added under continual stirring. It is more difficult to unite the other -substances with this base; the aromatic water is admitted in a thin -stream under vigorous stirring (or whipping, or churning), and when -it forms a uniform mass with the contents of the mortar the remaining -substances are stirred in and the still fluid mass is poured into the -vessels intended for it, and allowed to congeal. - -Cold-creams are usually sold in tasteful porcelain jars or vases. To -guard against rancidity of the mass, the vessels are closed either with -ground stoppers or with corks covered with tin foil. The essential oils -should be added last, when the mass has cooled to the congealing-point; -if added before, too much of them is lost by evaporation. - -We give below several approved formulas for the preparation of some -favorite cold-creams, and repeat that new varieties can be produced by -introducing any desired odor into the composition. - - -GLYCERIN COLD-CREAM A. - - Expressed oil of almond 2 lb. - Wax 2½ oz. - Spermaceti 2½ oz. - Glycerin 7 oz. - Oil of bergamot ¾ oz. - Oil of lemon ¾ oz. - Oil of geranium ¾ oz. - Oil of neroli 150 grains. - Oil of cinnamon 150 grains. - Rose water 1 lb. - - -GLYCERIN COLD-CREAM B. - - Expressed oil of almond 2 lb. - Wax 4½ oz. - Spermaceti 4½ oz. - Glycerin ½ lb. - Oil of rose 150 grains. - Civet 30 grains. - - -CAMPHOR ICE (CAMPHOR COLD-CREAM). - - Wax 2¼ oz. - Spermaceti 2¼ oz. - Expressed oil of almond 2 lb. - Camphor 4½ oz. - Oil of rosemary 90 grains. - Oil of peppermint 45 grains. - Rose water 2 lb. - - -CAMPHOR ICE (PÂTE CAMPHORIQUE). - - Lard 2 lb. - Wax ½ lb. - Camphor ½ lb. - Oil of lavender ½ oz. - Oil of rosemary ½ oz. - -This mixture, which is rather firm, is frequently poured into shallow -porcelain boxes; sometimes it is colored red with alkanet root. - - -CAMPHOR BALLS (SAVONETTES CAMPHORIQUES). - - Expressed oil of almond 7 oz. - Purified tallow 2 lb. - Wax 7 oz. - Spermaceti 7 oz. - Camphor 7 oz. - Oil of lavender ¾ oz. - Oil of rosemary ¾ oz. - Oil of cinnamon 75 grains. - -Savonette is generally understood to mean a soap cast in spherical -moulds; this preparation is, as a rule, likewise sold in this form. - - -DIVINE POMADE A. - - Expressed oil of almond 3 lb. - Spermaceti 1 lb. - Lard 2 lb. - Benzoin 1 lb. - Vanilla 7 oz. - Civet ¾ oz. - -The aromatic substances, having been comminuted, are thoroughly -triturated with the other ingredients, and the mass is kept for -twenty-four hours at a temperature of 50 to 60° C. (112-140° F.), when -it is carefully decanted from the sediment, which is treated again with -another mass of the same substances for thirty-six to forty-eight hours. - - -DIVINE POMADE B. - - Beef marrow 2 lb. - Benzoin 1½ oz. - Nutmegs 1 oz. - Cloves 1 oz. - Storax 1½ oz. - Orris root 1½ oz. - Civet 75 grains. - Cinnamon 1 oz. - Orange-flower water 2 lb. - -The solid substances are macerated for forty-eight hours with the warm -marrow, the liquid perfumed marrow is then strained off and mixed with -the orange-flower water. - - -COLOGNE COLD-CREAM (CRÊME DE COLOGNE). - - Expressed oil of almond 2 lb. - Wax 2½ oz. - Spermaceti 2½ oz. - Mecca balsam 7 oz. - Tolu balsam 3½ oz. - Rose water 14 oz. - -Mecca balsam has been a rare article in commerce for many years. -That which is usually sold as such is more or less adulterated or an -imitation. The genuine was derived from Balsamodendron Opobalsamum -Kunth. - - -CUCUMBER COLD-CREAM A. - - Expressed oil of almond 2 lb. - Wax 2¼ oz. - Spermaceti 2¼ oz. - Extract of cucumber 5½ oz. - Cucumber juice, fresh 2 lb. - -The cucumber juice is carefully heated to 60 or 65° C. (140-149°F.), -rapidly filtered from the curds, and at once added to the rest of the -mass. - - -CUCUMBER COLD-CREAM B. - - Lard 6 lb. - Spermaceti 2 lb. - Benzoin 7 oz. - Extract of cucumber 2 lb. - -The benzoin is first macerated with the warmed fat for twenty-four -hours, and this aromatic fat is treated in the usual manner. - - -LIP SALVE A (POMADE BLANCHE POUR LES LÈVRES). - - Expressed oil of almond 2 lb. - Wax 4½ oz. - Spermaceti 4½ oz. - Oil of bitter almond ½ oz. - Oil of lemon grass 75 grains. - Oil of rose 75 grains. - - -RED LIP SALVE B (POMADE À LA ROSE POUR LES LÈVRES). - - Expressed oil of almond 2 lb. - Wax 4½ oz. - Spermaceti 4½ oz. - Oil of geranium 150 grains. - Oil of santal 90 grains. - Alkanet root 4½ oz. - -The beautiful red color which distinguishes this preparation is -produced with alkanet root; the mass, before the essential oils are -added, being macerated for from six to eight hours, under frequent -stirring, with the comminuted root, and then decanted from the sediment. - - -CHERRY SALVE C (POMADE CERISE). - - Expressed oil of almond 2 lb. - Wax 4½ oz. - Spermaceti 4½ oz. - Oil of bitter almond ½ oz. - Oil of sweet bay 150 grains. - Alkanet root 4½ oz. - -The procedure is the same as for pomade à la rose. - - -ALMOND COLD-CREAM. - - Expressed oil of almond 2 lb. - Wax 4½ oz. - Spermaceti 4½ oz. - Rose water 2 lb. - Oil of bitter almond ¾ oz. - Civet 30 grains. - - -ALMOND BALLS (SAVONETTES D’AMANDES). - - Tallow 2 lb. - Wax 10½ oz. - Spermaceti 7 oz. - Oil of bitter almond 150 grains. - Oil of clove 75 grains. - Oil of cinnamon 75 grains. - -This is usually formed into balls. - - -ROSEBUD COLD-CREAM. - - Almond oil 2 lb. - Wax 2½ oz. - Spermaceti 2½ oz. - Rose water 2 lb. - Oil of rose 75 grains. - Oil of geranium 75 grains. - - -VIOLET COLD-CREAM (CRÊME DE VIOLETTES). - - Huile antique de violettes 2 lb. - Wax 2½ oz. - Spermaceti 2½ oz. - Violet water 2 lb. - Oil of bitter almond 150 grains. - Oil of neroli 75 grains. - - - - -APPENDIX. - - -NAIL POWDER (POUDRE POUR LES ONGLES; FINGERNAGEL-PULVER). - -The finger nails, being an appendage to the skin, belong under the head -of the Care of the Skin; we therefore give a formula for preparing the -powder used for imparting smoothness and gloss to the nails. For use, -some of the powder is poured on a piece of soft glove leather and the -nails are rubbed until they shine. - - Oxide of tin 4 lb. - Carmine ¾ oz. - Oil of bergamot 150 grains. - Oil of lavender 150 grains. - -The oxide of tin must be an impalpable powder and is mixed with the -other substances in a mortar. - - - - -CHAPTER XXII. - -THE PREPARATIONS USED FOR THE CARE OF THE HAIR (POMADES AND HAIR OILS). - - -The hair, the beautiful ornament of the human body, requires fat for -its care and preservation, for there are but few persons whose scalp is -so vigorous that the hair can derive sufficient nourishment from it to -maintain its gloss and smoothness. - -Among the ancient Greeks, Romans, and Germans various ointments were in -use for the care of the hair. In Rome there was even, as we have stated -in an earlier part of the book, a special guild of ointment-makers -or unguentarii. They employed a process for making their ointments -fragrant which resembles that of maceration in present use. - -The so-called pomades (from pomum, apple) were prepared by sticking a -fine apple full of spices and placing it for a long time in liquid fat -which absorbed the odor of the spices. - -In the present state of chemical science, the basis of every pomade or -hair oil is formed by some fat perfumed with aromatic substances and at -times colored. The fats generally used are lard, beef marrow, tallow, -bears’ grease, olive or almond oil; some of the firmer fats receive -an addition of a certain amount of paraffin, spermaceti, or wax, in -order to give the pomade greater consistence. As in the manufacture of -all the finer articles, it is essential that whatever fat is employed -should be perfectly pure; only fat which is absolutely neutral, _i.e._, -free from acid, can be used, and any sample with but a trace of -rancidity (containing free fatty acids) should be rejected on account -of the penetrating odor peculiar to several of these acids. - -Manufacturers who aim at the production of fine goods spare neither -trouble nor expense in order to obtain perfectly pure fats. - -Fats are purified for the purposes of the perfumer in the following -manner: - -The fat is melted in a bright iron pot or enamelled vessel with three -times the quantity of water containing in solution about one per cent -(of the weight of the fat) of alum and one per cent of table salt. Fat -and water are well stirred with a broad flat ladle or some mechanical -arrangement within the boiler. After the mass has remained at rest for -some time, the curdled solid matters are skimmed from the surface. The -time required for this operation can be much shortened by the use of a -pump which raises the fat and water from the boiler and returns them in -a fine spray. - -When fats with some degree of rancidity are to be made suitable for -the purposes of the perfumer, 0.5% of caustic soda lye is added to the -water instead of the alum. - -After this treatment is completed, the fat must be washed in order to -free it from the substances with which it was purified. Formerly this -washing was done in a manner resembling the grinding of oil colors. -The fat was placed on a level stone plate and kneaded with a muller -with flat base under a continual stream of water flowing from above, -until the fat was clean. This expensive hand labor is now performed by -machines, the fat being treated with water in vertical mills. - -No matter how carefully a fat was purified, it may happen that the -pomades made from it, if kept long in stock, may subsequently become -rancid—a circumstance which may destroy the reputation of a factory. -Fortunately we know two substances which materially counteract the -tendency of fats to become rancid: salicylic acid and benzoin. Either -of these substances is added to many perfumery articles, especially -pomades, in order to prevent rancidity; an admixture of from -one-one-thousandth to five-one-thousandths parts of solid salicylic -acid suffices, according to our experiments, for the purpose; of -benzoin we need about three-fourths of an ounce for every quart of -fat; the resin is only partly soluble in fat, but imparts to it its -vanilla-like odor. For the finest pomades sublimed benzoic acid is -used, in the proportion of about 150 to 240 grains to the quart of fat. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII. - -FORMULAS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF POMADES AND HAIR OILS. - - -A. Pomades. - -In manufacturing perfumery two groups of pomades are -distinguished—those with a hard base, and those with a soft base. By -base is meant the fat which is the vehicle of the odor in every pomade. -The consistence of the substance depends upon its melting-point; lard -and beef marrow, having a low melting-point, furnish soft pomades; -while beef and mutton tallow, which often receive an addition of -paraffin, wax, or spermaceti in order to make them firmer, have a -higher melting-point and serve for hard pomades. - -French perfumers put on the market some very fine pomades consisting -of the fat which has served for the absorption of odors by maceration, -enfleurage, etc., and which has been treated with alcohol for the -extraction of the odors (so-called washed pomades). No matter how long -such a fat is treated with alcohol, it tenaciously retains a portion of -the odor to which the great fragrance of these pomades is due and which -has given them their reputation. - -If the pomades resulting from the following formulas should turn -out too soft—a fact depending on the climate of the place of -manufacture—they may receive an addition of a mixture of equal parts -of paraffin, wax, and spermaceti, in portions of respectively five per -cent at each addition, until the desired ointment-like consistence is -attained. - - -CANTHARIDAL POMADE. - - Beef marrow 4 lb. - Wax 7 oz. - Oil of mace 150 grains. - Oil of clove 150 grains. - Oil of rose 150 grains. - Tincture of cantharides ¾ oz. - -Tincture of cantharides is prepared by prolonged maceration of ¾ ounce -of powdered cantharides in one quart of alcohol. - - -CIRCASSIAN POMADE. - - Benzoin pomade (see below) 2 lb. - Rose pomade 1 lb. - Lard 2 lb. - Expressed oil of almond 4 lb. - Alkanet root 3½ oz. - Oil of rose ½ oz. - -The almond oil alone is first macerated with the alkanet root until, -when added to the other ingredients, it imparts a beautiful red color -to the pomade. - - -BENZOIN POMADE A. - - Benzoic acid, sublimed 4¼ oz. - Purified fat 4 lb. - - -BENZOIN POMADE B. - - Benzoin 12¼ oz. - Fat 4 lb. - -Macerate the benzoin or benzoic acid in the fat at the temperature of -boiling water for several hours, and strain the pomade through a cloth. - - -DOUBLE POMADES. - -These pomades are put on the market in excellent quality especially by -French manufacturers. They consist of a mixture of washed pomades and -huiles antiques. The respective quantities must be chosen according to -the climate of the country for which the articles are intended. Colder -countries require equal parts by weight of pomades and oils; warmer -climates, two parts of fat to one of oil. - - -CRYSTALLIZED OIL (HUILE CRYSTALLISÉE). - - Huile antique of orange flowers 1 lb. - Huile antique of roses 2 lb. - Huile antique of tuberoses 2 lb. - Huile antique of violets 2 lb. - Spermaceti 1 lb. - Paraffin 7 oz. - -The addition of spermaceti and paraffin causes the mixture to assume -a crystalline form on cooling, the appearance improving in proportion -as the cooling is slow and gradual. First melt the paraffin and -spermaceti on a water bath, add the huiles antiques, mix thoroughly by -prolonged stirring, and pour the finished product into the vessels in -which it is to be sold. These vessels are previously warmed to 60 or -70° C. (140-158°F.), and very slowly after filling, so as to secure a -beautiful crystalline mass. A second quality of crystalline hair oil is -made according to the following formula: - - Expressed oil of almond 10 lb. - Spermaceti 21 oz. - Paraffin 14 oz. - Oil of bergamot 2 oz. - Oil of lemon 4¼ oz. - Oil of bitter almond 150 grains. - - -BLOSSOM POMADE (POMADE À FLEURS). - - Expressed oil of almond 4 lb. - Jasmine pomade 28 oz. - Rose pomade 28 oz. - Violet pomade 28 oz. - Oil of bergamot ½ oz. - Oil of lemon 150 grains. - - -BEAR’S GREASE POMADE (POMADE À GRAISSE D’OURS). - - Expressed oil of almond 20 lb. - Lard 24 lb. - Cassie pomade 4 lb. - Jasmine pomade 4 lb. - Huile antique of cassie 1 lb. - Huile antique of jasmine 1 lb. - Huile antique of orange flowers 1 lb. - Huile antique of roses 1 lb. - Huile antique of tuberoses 1 lb. - Oil of bergamot ½ lb. - Oil of lemon 3½ oz. - Oil of nutmeg 1½ oz. - Oil of clove 4¼ oz. - -This pomade is rather consistent; if it is to be made still firmer for -summer use or warm climates, the almond oil should be diminished and -the lard increased in proportion, or some tallow and wax added. The -pomade is made by mixing the oil and lard, adding next the pomades and -huiles antiques, and finally the essential oils. The temperature should -not be higher than suffices to keep the mass liquid; the mixture is -effected by vigorous stirring, and is then at once, though gradually, -cooled. - - -BEEF-MARROW POMADE (POMADE À MOËLLE DE BŒUF). - - Lard 8 lb. - Beef marrow 4 lb. - Oil of bergamot 1 oz. - Oil of lemon 2 oz. - Oil of mace 150 grains. - Oil of clove 150 grains. - - -MARROW CREAM (CRÊME DE MOËLLE). - - Expressed oil of almond 4 lb. - Lard 4 lb. - Palm oil 3½ oz. - Oil of bergamot 2 oz. - Oil of lemon 7 oz. - Oil of nutmeg 150 grains. - Oil of clove 150 grains. - Oil of cinnamon 150 grains. - -The public is accustomed to receive the last two pomades in the form -of froth. This can be easily effected by whipping the pomade during -cooling with an egg-beater until it is solidified. - - -CINCHONA POMADE (POMADE À QUINQUINE). - - Lard 4 lb. - Expressed oil of almond 1 lb. - Beef marrow 6 lb. - Peru balsam 1 oz. - Cinchona bark ¾ oz. - Oil of clove 1 oz. - Oil of rose 150 grains. - -Macerate the finely powdered bark in the fat for some hours, add the -Peru balsam, strain through a cloth, and incorporate the essential -oils. The pomade is vaunted as a hair tonic, as well as - - -TANNO-QUININE POMADE, - -which is prepared in the same way; the only difference being the -addition of 150 grains of tannin. - - -CASTOR-OIL CREAM (CRÊME DE RICINE). - - Expressed oil of almond 3 lb. - Castor oil 3 lb. - Rose pomade 2 lb. - Orange-flower pomade 2 lb. - Tuberose pomade 2 lb. - Oil of bergamot 7 oz. - Oil of lemon 3½ oz. - - -ORANGE-FLOWER POMADE (POMADE À FLEURS D’ORANGES). - - Expressed oil of almond 38½ oz. - Cassie pomade 38½ oz. - Rose pomade 35 oz. - Jasmine pomade 35 oz. - Oil of bitter almond 150 grains. - Oil of neroli ½ oz. - - -HELIOTROPE POMADE (POMADE DE HÉLIOTROPE). - - Rose pomade 4 lb. - Orange-flower pomade 1 lb. - Huile antique of jasmine 2 lb. - Huile antique of orange flower 1 lb. - Huile antique of tuberose 1 lb. - Vanilla pomade 2 lb. - Oil of bitter almond 150 grains. - Oil of clove 75 grains. - - -TRANSPARENT POMADE. - - Expressed oil of almond 6 lb. - Wax 5½ oz. - Spermaceti 1 lb. - Oil of bitter almond 75 grains. - Oil of rose 150 grains. - Tincture of musk 1½ oz. - -The pomade is completely liquefied after being mixed and allowed to -congeal in the vessels in which it is marketed. If successful, the -product must be quite transparent or at least decidedly translucent. - - -TONKA CREAM. - - Tonka beans 1 lb. - Lard 8 lb. - -The powdered beans are stirred into the melted fat, in which they -remain for several days, the fat being agitated from time to time; when -it smells strong enough, it is strained through fine linen, and the -tonka beans are treated with another quantity of fat. - - -VIOLET POMADE (POMADE DES VIOLETTES). - - Lard 4 lb. - Cassie pomade 3 lb. - Rose pomade 2 lb. - Violet pomade 2 lb. - - -VANILLA CREAM (CRÊME DE VANILLE). - - Vanilla 7 oz. - Lard 6 lb. - -In making this pomade the material is treated the same as in preparing -tonka pomade. Ordinary vanilla pomade is made by triturating: - - Peru balsam 7 oz. - Lard 2 lb. - Expressed oil of almond 2 lb. - -First triturate the balsam with the almond oil and gradually add the -lard. Another, much better process is the following: - - -VANILLA POMADE. - - Vanillin 80 grains. - Peru balsam ½ oz. - Lard 6 lb. - -Dissolve the vanillin and balsam of Peru in about 4 oz. of alcohol. -Melt the lard at as low a temperature as possible, then add the -solution, stir until it is well incorporated, and afterward repeatedly -until the mass is cold. - - -POMADE PHILOCOME. - - Huile antique of cassie 1 lb. - Huile antique of jasmine 1 lb. - Huile antique of orange flower 3½ oz. - Huile antique of rose 3½ oz. - Huile antique of tuberose 3½ oz. - Huile antique of violet 1 lb. - Paraffin 10½ oz. - Wax 14 oz. - -This pomade has a delightful odor but is expensive; an inferior and -much cheaper philocome is made as follows: - - Expressed oil of almond 8 lb. - Paraffin ½ lb. - Wax 14 oz. - Oil of bergamot 4¼ oz. - Oil of lemon 1¾ oz. - Oil of lavender ¾ oz. - Nutmeg 75 grains. - Cloves 75 grains. - Cinnamon 75 grains. - -Pomades are usually colored—rose pomade, red; reseda pomade, green; -violet pomade, violet, etc. For this purpose aniline colors are -frequently used; they must be dissolved in glycerin and added to the -fat, as they are insoluble in the latter. The coloring matter is added -when the pomades are finished, before they are allowed to congeal. - - -B. Hair Oils. - -These differ from pomades mainly by containing huiles antiques instead -of washed pomades; they are therefore more or less liquid and are used -for the hair as much as pomades. - - -BENZOATED OIL (HUILE À BENJAMIN). - - Sublimed benzoic acid 5 oz. - Expressed oil of almond 4 lb. - -The acid must be dissolved in the hot oil. - - -HUILE À L’ESS-BOUQUET. - - Oil of rose 150 grains. - Oil of reseda 3½ oz. - Oil of violet 150 grains. - Tincture of musk 75 grains. - Almond oil 6 lb. - -The essential oils are mixed, and the almond oil is added in small -portions under continual stirring. - - -HELIOTROPE HAIR OIL (HUILE HÉLIOTROPE). - - Huile antique of jasmine 10½ oz. - Huile antique of rose 2 lb. - Huile antique of orange flower 5½ oz. - Huile antique of tuberose 5½ oz. - Huile antique of vanilla 1 lb. - Oil of bitter almond 150 grains. - Oil of clove 75 grains. - - -JASMINE HAIR OIL (HUILE DE JASMIN). - - Expressed oil of almond 4 lb. - Huile antique of jasmine. 7 oz. - Oil of bergamot 1 oz. - Oil of lemon 150 grains. - - -OIL OF SWISS HERBS. - - Expressed oil of almond 4 lb. - Oil of bergamot 150 grains. - Oil of lemon 75 grains. - Oil of lavender 75 grains. - Oil of peppermint 150 grains. - Oil of cinnamon 75 grains. - - -OIL OF BURDOCK ROOT. - - Expressed oil of almond 4 lb. - Burdock root 1 lb. - Oil of bergamot 1 oz. - Oil of lemon 1 oz. - Oil of rose ¾ oz. - -The burdock root is macerated for two days in the warm oil, which is -then filtered and the other ingredients are added. - - -MACASSAR OIL. - - Expressed oil of almond 4 lb. - Alkanet root 7 oz. - Oil of clove 75 grains. - Oil of mace 75 grains. - Oil of rose 75 grains. - Oil of cinnamon ½ oz. - Tincture of musk 75 grains. - -The alkanet root in coarse powder must be macerated in the warm almond -oil until it acquires a deep red color. - - -PERU HAIR OIL. - - Peru balsam 3½ oz. - Storax 1¾ oz. - Expressed oil of almond 8 lb. - -Mix by stirring, and allow to settle for two weeks in a completely -filled bottle. - - -HUILE PHILOCOME. - - Expressed oil of almond 4 lb. - Huile antique of cassie 1 lb. - Huile antique of jasmine 28 oz. - Wax 3½ oz. - Spermaceti 1¾ oz. - Oil of neroli 1 oz. - Oil of rose 150 grains. - Oil of cinnamon 75 grains. - - -PORTUGAL OIL. - - Expressed oil of almond 4 lb. - Oil of bergamot 1 oz. - Oil of lemon 150 grains. - Oil of neroli 75 grains. - Oil of orange flower 75 grains. - Oil of orange peel ¾ oz. - Oil of cinnamon 75 grains. - - -TONKA OIL. - - Tonka beans 1 lb. - Expressed oil of almond 4 lb. - -Inclose the powdered tonka beans in a linen bag, which is hung into the -cold oil and allowed to macerate for several weeks. The same process is -employed for the following: - - -VANILLA OIL. - - Vanilla 7 oz. - Almond oil 4 lb. - -Or, - - Vanillin 80 grains. - Expressed oil of almond 4 lb. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIV. - -PREPARATIONS FOR THE CARE OF THE MOUTH. - - -Besides the red lips and the gums, the teeth in particular ornament -the mouth. Unfortunately there are but few persons who can boast of a -perfectly healthy set of teeth, which is found as a normal condition -only among savages and animals. The chief causes of the admitted fact -that most persons have some defect in the mouth—bad teeth, pale gums, -offensive odor—lie in part in our civilization with the ingestion of -hot and sometimes sour food, in part in the lack of attention bestowed -on the care of the mouth by many people. The care of the mouth is most -important after meals and in the morning; particles of food lodge even -between the most perfect teeth and undergo rapid decomposition in the -high temperature prevailing in the mouth. This gives rise to a most -disagreeable odor, and the decomposition quickly extends to the teeth. - -Perfectly normal healthy teeth consist of a hard, brilliant external -coat, the enamel, which opposes great resistance to acid and -decomposing substances. But unfortunately the enamel is very sensitive -to changes of temperature and easily cracks, thus admitting to the bony -part of the teeth such deleterious substances and leading to their -destruction. The bulk of the tooth consists of a porous mass of bone -which is easily destroyed, and thus the entire set may be lost. - -Hygienic perfumery is able to offer to the public means by which a -healthy set of teeth can be kept in good condition and the disease -arrested in affected teeth, and by which an agreeable freshness is -imparted to the gums and lips. While true perfumes may be looked upon -as more or less of a luxury, the hygiene of the mouth is a necessity; -for we have to deal with the health and preservation of the important -masticatory apparatus which is necessary to the welfare of the whole -body, so that the æsthetic factor occupies a secondary position, or -rather results as a necessary consequence from a proper care of the -mouth. - -With no other hygienic article have so many sins been committed as with -those intended for the teeth; we have had occasion to examine a number -of tooth powders, some of them very high-priced, which were decidedly -injurious. Thus we have known of cases in which powdered pumice stone, -colored and perfumed, has been sold as a tooth powder. Pumice stone, -however, resembles glass in its composition and acts on the teeth -like a fine file which rapidly wears away the enamel and exposes the -frail bony substance. It needs no further explanation to prove the -destructive effects of such a powder on the teeth. - -Many person prize finely powdered wood charcoal as a tooth powder, and -to some extent they are right. Wood charcoal always contains alkalies -which neutralize the injurious acids, besides traces of products of dry -distillation which prevent decomposition. But these valuable properties -are counteracted by the fact that charcoal is always more or less -gritty, or, being insoluble, will lodge between the teeth and form the -nucleus for the lodgement of other substances. - -In compounding articles for the mouth and teeth—tooth powders and mouth -washes—the objects aimed at are to neutralize the chemical processes -that injure the teeth and gums, and to restore freshness and resisting -power to the relaxed gums and mucous membranes. - -Remnants of food left in the mouth after meals soon develop acids which -attack the teeth; they are neutralized by basic substances or alkalies -which counteract them. - -The formation of organic acids from food remnants is caused by -microscopic fungi (schizomycetes) which adhere to the teeth (so-called -tartar) in the absence of cleanliness; against these parasites there -are at our disposal a number of substances which kill them rapidly and -thus for a time arrest the process of decomposition; they are therefore -called antiseptics. - -Another group of ingredients acts especially on such abnormal -conditions of the membranous and fleshy parts of the mouth as manifest -themselves by colorless, easily bleeding gums. It is mainly compounds -of the tannin group which strengthen the gums and are known as -astringents. - -In compounding articles for the teeth it has thus far unfortunately -not been customary to combine several of the substances having the -above properties, the general rule being to incorporate only one in the -composition, and some so-called tooth lotions consist even of aromatics -alone. Such articles perfume the mouth, but have no hygienic effect -upon it. - -Among the essential oils, however, there is one which should form a -part of every article intended for the care of the mouth, provided it -can remain unchanged in the presence of the other ingredients, which -would not be the case where permanganate of potassium is used. Oil of -peppermint and other mint oils exert a very refreshing influence on -the mucous membranes of the mouth, in which they leave a sensation of -freshness lasting for some time. - -We give below a number of formulas for the manufacture of articles for -the care of the mouth, as to the value of which the reader can form -his own opinion from what has been stated. Finally it may be observed -that several of the so-called secret preparations for the care of the -mouth are arrant humbugs, worthless substances being sold at exorbitant -prices and, worse yet, lacking the vaunted hygienic effect owing to -their chemical composition. - -The articles for the care of the mouth and teeth may be divided into -tooth pastes, tooth powders, tooth tinctures or lotions, and mouth -washes. - - -A. Tooth Pastes. - -TOOTH SOAP (SAVON DENTIFRICE). - - Soap 2 lb. - Talcum 2 lb. - Orris root 2 lb. - Sugar 1 lb. - Water 1 lb. - Oil of clove 150 grains. - Oil of peppermint ¾ oz. - -The soap should be good, well-boiled tallow soap; it is mixed with -the other ingredients (the sugar is to be previously dissolved in -the water) by thorough and prolonged stirring, and is usually sold in -shallow porcelain boxes. The talcum or French chalk is a soft mineral -with a fatty feel and is a common commercial article. - -This tooth soap and other similar preparations for the care of the -mouth are frequently colored rose red. Of course only harmless colors -can be used. The most appropriate are rose madder lake and carmine. - - -TOOTH PASTE (PÂTE DENTIFRICE). - - Prepared chalk 2 lb. - Orris root 2 lb. - Sugar 2 lb. - Water 1 lb. - Madder lake ¾ to 1½ oz. - Oil of lavender 150 grains. - Oil of mace 150 grains. - Oil of clove 150 grains. - Oil of peppermint 1 oz. - Oil of rose 150 grains. - -The prepared chalk used in this and many other articles is pure -_precipitated_ carbonate of lime. It is made from pieces of white -marble, the offal from sculptors’ workshops, which are placed in wide -porcelain or glass vessels and covered with hydrochloric acid, when -abundant vapors of carbonic acid are given off. When the development -of carbonic acid has ceased, the liquid is allowed to stand at rest -for several days with an excess of marble, whereby all the iron oxide -is separated. This is necessary, otherwise the preparation would not -be white, but yellowish. The liquid is filtered and treated with a -solution of carbonate of soda (sal soda), in water as long as any white -precipitate results. This precipitate is washed with pure water on a -filter, and when slowly dried it forms a fine, brilliant white powder. -Crystalline calcium chloride may also be purchased, dissolved in water, -and treated with the soda solution to obtain the white precipitate. -The quantity of madder lake in the above formula is given within the -limits to form light or dark red tooth paste. - - -B. Tooth Powders. - -QUININE TOOTH POWDER. - - Prepared chalk 2 lb. - Starch flour 1 lb. - Orris root, powdered 1 lb. - Sulphate of quinine ¾ oz. - Oil of peppermint 150 grains. - - -CINCHONA BARK TOOTH POWDER. - - Cinchona bark, powdered 1 lb. - Prepared chalk 2 lb. - Myrrh, powdered 1 lb. - Orris root, powdered 2 lb. - Cinnamon, powdered 1 lb. - Carbonate of ammonia 2 lb. - Oil of clove ¾ oz. - - -BORATED TOOTH POWDER. - - Borax, powered 1 lb. - Prepared chalk 2 lb. - Myrrh, powdered ½ lb. - Orris root, powdered ½ lb. - Cinnamon, powdered ½ lb. - - -HOMŒOPATHIC CHALK TOOTH POWDER. - - Prepared chalk 4 lb. - Starch flour 5½ oz. - Orris root, powdered ½ lb. - Oil of cinnamon 1 oz. - - -CAMPHORATED CHALK TOOTH POWDER. - - Prepared chalk 4 lb. - Camphor 1 lb. - Orris root, powdered 2 lb. - Cinnamon, powdered ½ lb. - - -CHARCOAL TOOTH POWDER. - - Charcoal, powdered 4 lb. - Cinchona bark, powered 1 lb. - Oil of bergamot ½ oz. - Oil of lemon 1 oz. - -The charcoal must be derived from some soft wood; willow, poplar, or -buckthorn are among the most appropriate. - - -CUTTLEFISH-BONE TOOTH POWDER. - - Prepared chalk 4 lb. - Cuttlefish-bone, powdered 2 lb. - Orris root, powdered 2 lb. - Oil of bergamot ¾ oz. - Oil of lemon 1½ oz. - Oil of neroli 150 grains. - Oil of orange ¾ oz. - - -CACHOUS AROMATISÉES. - -Cachous are of a pillular composition, and used not so much for the -teeth as to impart fragrance to the breath. - -They are made as follows: - - Gum acacia 1½ oz. - Catechu, powdered 2¾ oz. - Licorice juice 1¼ lb. - Cascarilla, powdered ¾ oz. - Mastic, powdered ¾ oz. - Orris root, powdered ¾ oz. - Oil of clove 75 grains. - Oil of peppermint ½ oz. - Tincture of ambergris 75 grains. - Tincture of musk. 75 grains. - -Boil the solids with water until a pasty mass results which becomes -firm on cooling. The aromatics are then added, and the mass is rolled -into pills which are covered with genuine silver foil. One of these -pills suffices to remove the odor of tobacco, etc., completely from the -mouth. - - -PASTILLES ORIENTALES. - - Sugar 8 lb. - Carmine 75 grains. - Gum acacia 2 lb. - Musk 15 grains. - Oil of rose 75 grains. - Oil of vetiver 15 grains. - Civet 15 grains. - Tartaric acid 150 grains. - -Add the essential oils to the powdered solids, mix intimately, and add -enough water to form a stiff dough, to be made into pills which when -chewed remove the odor of tobacco or other unpleasant odors. - - -Rose Tooth Powder. - - Prepared chalk 4 lb. - Orris root, powdered 2 lb. - Madder lake 1¾ to 2½ oz. - Oil of rose ½ oz. - Oil of santal 150 grains. - - -SUGAR TOOTH POWDER. - - Bone-ash 4 lb. - Orris root, powdered 4 lb. - Sugar, powdered 2 lb. - Oil of bergamot ¾ oz. - Oil of citron ½ oz. - Oil of mace 75 grains. - Oil of neroli 75 grains. - Oil of orange 150 grains. - Oil of rosemary ¾ oz. - - -CHINESE TOOTH POWDER. - - Pumice stone 4 lb. - Starch flour. 1 lb. - Madder lake 1¾ oz. - Oil of peppermint ¾ oz. - -The pumice stone must be ground into the _finest_ powder and levigated, -before being mixed with the other ingredients. Note our remarks on -pumice stone on page 258. - - -C. Tooth Tinctures (Lotions) and Mouth Washes (Essences Dentifrices). - - -EAU ANATHÉRINE. - - Guaiac wood 3½ oz. - Myrrh 8 oz. - Cloves 5½ oz. - Santal wood 5½ oz. - Cinnamon 1¾ oz. - Alcohol 4 qts. - Rose water 2 qts. - Oil of mace. 75 grains. - Oil of rose 75 grains. - Oil of cinnamon 75 grains. - -The solids are macerated in the alcohol, the essential oils are -dissolved in the filtered liquid, and lastly the rose water is added. - - -EAU DE BOTOT. - -This tooth tincture, which is quite a favorite, is made in different -ways; the compositions made according to the French and English -formulas are considered the best. For this and many other tooth -tinctures rhatany root is also frequently used. Rhatany root is derived -from Krameria triandra, a South American plant. Its alcoholic tincture -has a red color. - - -A. FRENCH FORMULA. - - Anise 10 oz. - Cochineal ¾ oz. - Mace 150 grains. - Cloves. 150 grains. - Cinnamon 2¾ oz. - Alcohol 3 qts. - Oil of peppermint ¾ oz. - - -B. ENGLISH FORMULA. - - Tincture of cedar 4 qts. - Tincture of myrrh 1 qt. - Tincture of rhatany 1 qt. - Oil of lavender ¾ oz. - Oil of peppermint 1 oz. - Oil of rose 150 grains. - - -BORATED TOOTH TINCTURE. - - Borax 5½ oz. - Myrrh 5½ oz. - Red santal wood 5½ oz. - Sugar 5½ oz. - Cologne water 1 qt. - Alcohol 3 qts. - Water 3 pints. - -Macerate the myrrh and santal wood in the alcohol, then add the Cologne -water, and lastly the sugar and borax dissolved in the water. - - -CAMPHORATED COLOGNE WATER. - - Camphor 1 lb. - Cologne water 4 qts. - -Cologne water with myrrh is made in the same way, by substituting a -like weight of myrrh for the camphor. - - -EAU DE MILAN. - - Kino 3½ oz. - Civet 75 grains. - Cinnamon ¾ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - Oil of bergamot 150 grains. - Oil of lemon 150 grains. - Oil of peppermint ¾ oz. - -Kino contains an astringent, a variety of tannin, and forms a dark red -solution with alcohol. - - -EAU DE MIALHE. - - Tincture of benzoin ¾ oz. - Tincture of tolu ¾ oz. - Tincture of vanilla 150 grains. - Kino 5½ oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - Oil of anise. 75 grains. - Oil of peppermint ¾ oz. - Oil of star-anise 75 grains. - Oil of cinnamon 150 grains. - - -MYRRH TOOTH TINCTURE. - - Mace 1¾ oz. - Myrrh. 8 oz. - Cloves 8 oz. - Rhatany root. 8 oz. - Alcohol 5 qts. - - -CHLORAL MOUTH WASH. - - Chloral hydrate 1 oz. - Water 10 oz. - -A small quantity of this, rinsed about the mouth, removes every trace -of bad odor. - - -POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE WATER. - - Potassium permanganate 3½ oz. - Distilled water 5 qts. - -Potassium permanganate easily dissolves in distilled water and forms a -beautiful violet solution, a few drops of which are placed in a glass -of water for use. This salt is one of the most valuable articles for -the teeth; it has the property of readily giving off oxygen to organic -substances and hence immediately destroys all odor in the mouth by -oxidizing the organic bodies; it also removes at once the odor of -tobacco smoke. After rinsing the mouth with this solution, it is well -to use some peppermint water for polishing the teeth. This mouth wash -leaves brown stains on linen and other materials as well as on the -skin; such spots can only be removed with acids (hydrochloric, oxalic, -etc.). - - -SALICYLATED TOOTH TINCTURE. - - Salicylic acid 1¾ oz. - Orange-flower water 30 grains. - Water 2 qts. - Alcohol 1 qt. - Oil of peppermint 30 grains. - -Salicylic acid is a substance possessing strong antiseptic properties; -therefore, when this mouth wash is used after meals, the occurrence of -any bad odor, even in persons with defective teeth, is prevented and -the progress of caries is arrested, so that the acid may be considered -one of the most valuable substances in hygienic perfumery. - -Dissolve the salicylic acid in the warm alcohol mixed with water; add -to the still warm solution the orange-flower water and the oil of -peppermint dissolved in some of the alcohol. - - -EAU DE SALVIA. - - Oil of lemon. ¾ oz. - Oil of sage 1¾ oz. - Alcohol 1 qt. - Water 4 qts. - -The essential oils are dissolved in the alcohol, and this solution -mixed with the water. - - -EAU DE VIOLETTES. - - Tincture of orris root 1 qt. - Rose water, triple 1 qt. - Alcohol 1 qt. - Oil of bitter almond 75 grains. - Oil of neroli 30 grains. - - - - -CHAPTER XXV. - -COSMETIC PERFUMERY. - - -In cosmetic perfumery, use is made chiefly of articles which serve to -beautify some parts of the body by artificial means; for instance, to -impart to pale cheeks a youthful freshness or to restore to prematurely -gray hair its original appearance. In so far as the former object is -attained also by the preparations discussed in Chapters XXI., XXII., -XXIII., and XXIV., they likewise belong to the domain of cosmetic -perfumery; for health and beauty are inseparably connected. - -Though we have separated hygienic from cosmetic perfumery, we have done -so only in order to draw the line between preparations whose regular -use really improves the bodily health, and those which temporarily -cover a defect of certain parts of the body. - -Cosmetics may also be divided into several groups—those for beautifying -the skin, as paints and toilet powders; and those for the care of the -hair. The latter are subdivided into hair washes, hair dyes, so-called -hair tonics, depilatories, and preparations for dressing the hair, -_i.e._, for making it glossy and fixing it. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVI. - -SKIN COSMETICS AND FACE LOTIONS. - - -The use of skin cosmetics and paints is of remote antiquity, but varies -in different nations according to their civilization and their sense -of beauty. While among certain Oriental nations dark blue rings around -the eyes, with yellow lips and nails, pass for beautiful, the European -prizes only a white skin with a delicate tinge of red; Italian ladies -in the middle ages used the dark red juice of the fruit of the deadly -night-shade as a paint, hence the name bella donna, _i.e._, beautiful -lady. (According to Matthiolus, the name _herba bella donna_ arose -from the fact that Italian ladies used a distilled water of the plant -as a cosmetic.) Owing to its marked effect on the eyes, by dilating -the pupil and increasing the lustre, this juice also heightens the -brilliancy of the eye, though at the expense of its health. - -While in the last century face-painting was a universal fashion, it -is nowadays resorted to only by persons whose skin requires some -artificial help. But nobody desires that the cosmetic should be -perceptible on the skin. Hence it must be laid down as a rule that -paints and all cosmetics should be so compounded that it is not easily -possible to the observer to recognize that some artificial means has -been employed for beautifying the skin. - -We give below a number of such articles, which come as near as possible -to this ideal without injuring the skin. As every skin cosmetic cannot -but occlude the pores of the skin, it should be removed as soon as -possible—an advice to be heeded particularly by actors and actresses, -who must appear painted on the boards. - - -A. White Skin Cosmetics. - -FRENCH WHITE (BLANC FRANÇAIS). - - Talcum 4 lb. - Oil of lemon 75 grains. - Oil of bergamot 75 grains. - -The talcum must be reduced to the finest powder, levigated, dried, and -then perfumed. Owing to its unctuous nature, it readily adheres to the -skin, and as it has no effect on it and does not change color, it is -the best of all powders. - - -LIQUID BISMUTH WHITE; PEARL WHITE (BLANC PERLÉ LIQUIDE). - - Subnitrate of bismuth 1 lb. - Rose water 1 qt. - Orange-flower water 1 qt. - -When standing at rest, the subnitrate of bismuth sinks to the bottom, -while the supernatant fluid becomes quite clear. The bottle must -therefore be vigorously shaken immediately before use. When this -preparation remains on the skin for some length of time, it loses its -pure white color and becomes yellow, or darker, through the gradual -formation of a black sulphur compound. - - -VENETIAN CHALK (CRAIE VENÉTIENNE). - -is made exactly like the French white, above; the only difference -between the two preparations is that the talcum for the latter is -brought to a red heat, which, however, causes it in part to lose the -power of adhering to the skin. - - -B. Red Skin Cosmetics (Rouges). - -ROUGE VÉGETAL ROSE LIQUIDE. - - Ammonia water 2 oz. - Carmine 1¼ oz. - Essence of rose (triple) 2½ oz. - Rose water 2 qts. - -This superior preparation, which serves mainly for coloring the lips, -is made as follows: Reduce the carmine to powder; macerate it in the -ammonia in a three or four pint bottle for several days, add the other -ingredients, and let it stand for a week under oft-repeated agitation. -At the end of that time the bottle is left undisturbed until the -contents have become quite clear, when they are carefully decanted and -filled into bottles for sale. - -In order to obtain this preparation in proper form, only the finest -carmine should be used. That known in the market as “No. 40” is the -best. This alone will produce a cosmetic that, when brought in contact -with the skin, will give a vivid red color. - -In place of carmine, which requires the presence of ammonia if it is -to remain in solution, the anilin color known as _eosine_ may be used. -Of this, very minute amounts will be sufficient to impart the proper -tint. It is impracticable to give exact proportions, as these must be -determined in each case by experiment. It is necessary to avoid an -excess. The tint of a liquid colored by eosine may not appear deep, and -yet when it is applied to the skin a decidedly deeper stain than was -desired may be produced. Hence each addition of fresh coloring matter -must be carefully controlled by a practical test. - - -ROUGE EN FEUILLES. - -Cut from thick, highly calendered paper circular disks about 2½ inches -in diameter, and cover them with a layer of carmine containing just -enough gum acacia to make it adhere to the paper. For use, the leaf -is breathed on, a pledget of fine cotton is rubbed over it, and the -adhering color is transferred to the skin. - - -ROUGE EN PÂTE. - - Carmine 1 oz. - Talcum 21 oz. - Gum acacia 1¾ oz. - -The ingredients in finest powder are mixed in a mortar by prolonged -trituration, then water is added in small portions to form a doughy -mass to be filled into shallow porcelain dishes about the diameter -of a dollar. If the rouge is desired darker for the use of actors -and dark-complexioned persons, the proportion of carmine should be -increased. - - -ROUGE EN TASSES. - - Carthamin 1 oz. - Talcum powder 1 lb. - Gum acacia 1½ oz. - Oil of rose 15 grains. - -This rouge, when dry, has a greenish metallic lustre; it is prepared -and sold like rouge en pâte. - - -BLEU VÉGETAL POUR LES VEINES. - - Venetian chalk 1 lb. - Berlin blue 1¾ oz. - Gum acacia 1 oz. - -To the powdered solids add sufficient water to form a mass to be rolled -into sticks. For use, a pencil is breathed on, rubbed against the rough -side of a piece of white glove leather, and the veins are marked with -the adhering color on the skin coated with pearl white. Of course, some -dexterity is required to make the veins appear natural by the use of -this blue color. - - -ROUGE ALLOXANE (ALLOXAN RED; MUREXIDE PAINT). - - Cold cream 1 lb. - Alloxan 75 grains. - -Dissolve the alloxan in a little water and mix it intimately with any -desired cold-cream. The mixture is white, but when transferred to the -skin gradually becomes red. The preparation sold in Austria, etc., -under the name of “Schnuda” is identical with this alloxan paint. - - -C. Face Lotions. - -The skin often contains spots with marked color which are more or -less unsightly; for instance, freckles, liver spots, mother’s marks -(nævi), etc. Unfortunately we know of no remedy which radically removes -them; even chemical preparations with the most energetic effects, -which of course must never be employed owing to their destructive -action on the skin, cannot entirely do away with these dark spots -which have their seat in the lower layers of the skin. But the public -demands preparations for the removal of freckles, liver spots, etc., -and—obtains them. We subjoin the formulas for several of such secret -remedies, but declare emphatically that none of them will completely -effect the desired result. - - -FRECKLE MILK (LAIT ANTÉPHELIQUE). - - Camphor 1¾ oz. - Ammonium chloride ¾ oz. - Corrosive sublimate 150 grains. - Albumen 3½ oz. - Rose water 2 lb. - -We call attention to the fact that the sublimate (bichloride of -mercury) is very poisonous and must be used with the greatest care. - - -FRECKLE LOTION. - - Angelica root 1¾ oz. - Black hellebore root 1¾ oz. - Storax ¾ oz. - Oil of bergamot 150 grains. - Oil of citron 150 grains. - Alcohol 2 qts. - -Macerate for a week and filter. - - -EAU LENTICULEUSE. - - Potassium carbonate 7 oz. - Sugar ¾ oz. - Orange-flower water 2 qts. - Alcohol 7 oz. - - -LILIONESE I. - - Potassium carbonate 14 oz. - Water 4 lb. - Rose water 14 oz. - Alcohol 7 oz. - Oil of rose 150 grains. - Oil of cinnamon 75 grains. - - -LILIONESE II. - - Rose water 2 qts. - Orange-flower water 1 qt. - Glycerin 1 lb. - Potassium carbonate 3½ oz. - Tincture of benzoin ¾ to 1¾ oz. - -Add only enough of the alcoholic tincture of benzoin to render the -liquid slightly opalescent or milky. - - -LOTION FOR CHAPPED SKIN. - - Glycerin 4 lb. - Water 1 qt. - Rose water 1 qt. - -Color pale red with cochineal. - - -EAU DE PERLES. - - White soap 1 lb. - Dissolved in: Water 4 qts. - Glycerin 2 lb. - Add: Rose water 1 qt. - Tincture of musk 150 grains. - -To be colored bluish with some indigo-carmin. - - -TEINT DE VENUS. - - Alcoholic soap solution 2 qts. - Carbonate of potassium 3½ oz. - Extract of orange flower 3½ oz. - -The soap solution is made as concentrated as possible, and the entire -fluid colored with cochineal; in place of the extract of orange flower, -other essences or extracts may also be employed. For use, some of the -liquid is poured into the wash water. - - -PULCHÉRINE. - - Carbonate of potassium 14 oz. - Water 4 lb. - Orange-flower water 2 lb. - Alcohol 3½ oz. - Oil of neroli 150 grains. - Tincture of vanilla ¾ oz. - -The preceding preparations owe their activity merely to the presence of -carbonate of potassium which forms an emulsion with the fat of the skin -and thus resembles in its effects a mild soap. The other ingredients -only serve to render the composition fragrant. - - -D. Toilet Powders. - -Toilet powders are used to impart whiteness and smoothness to the skin; -hence they are merely a kind of dry cosmetic which are applied by means -of a powder puff or a hare’s foot. Their main ingredients are starch -and talcum powders, perfumed and sometimes tinted a rose-red color. -It is immaterial what kind of starch is used; rice, wheat, and potato -starch are equally effective, provided they are clear white and in the -finest powder. In some cases the bitter-almond bran remaining after the -expression of the fixed oil and the preparation of the oil of bitter -almond is likewise used for toilet powders. The more thoroughly these -powders are rubbed into the skin, the whiter the latter becomes and the -less easily can they be detected. - - -WHITE TOILET POWDER. - - Fine levigated zinc white 1¾ oz. - Venetian talcum 1¾ oz. - Carbonate of magnesia 1¾ oz. - Oil of rose 20 drops. - Oil of orris 20 drops. - -Mix intimately. - - -PINK TOILET POWDER. - - White toilet powder (see above) 5½ oz. - Carmine 8 grains. - - -POUDRE DE PISTACHES. - - Pistachio meal 10 lb. - Talcum 10 lb. - Oil of lavender ¾ oz. - Oil of rose ½ oz. - Oil of cinnamon 75 grains. - -The oil must have been completely extracted from the pistachio meal, -which is to be reduced to the finest powder. - - -POUDRE À LA ROSE. - - Starch powder 20 lb. - Carmine ¾ oz. - Oil of rose ½ oz. - Oil of santal ½ oz. - Oil of vetiver 150 grains. - - -POUDRE À LA VIOLETTE. - - Starch powder 20 lb. - Orris root, in fine powder 10 lb. - Oil of bergamot ¾ oz. - Oil of lemon ¾ oz. - Oil of clove 150 grains. - Oil of neroli 150 grains. - - -POUDRE BLANCHE SURFINE (POUDRE DE RIZ). - - Starch powder 20 lb. - Subnitrate of bismuth 2 lb. - Oil of lemon ¾ oz. - Oil of rose 150 grains. - - -BLANC DE PERLES SEC (DRY PEARL WHITE). - - Venetian chalk 20 lb. - Subnitrate of bismuth 42 oz. - Zinc white 42 oz. - Oil of lemon 1½ oz. - - -ANTI-ODORIN. - - Starch powder 1 lb. - Salicylic acid 150 grains. - -This mixture, which is best left unperfumed, does excellent service -when used to prevent an offensive odor in stockings or shoes. The -inside of the stockings is dusted with the powder, and every week a -teaspoonful is sprinkled into the shoes. - - -SKIN GLOSS. - - Carbonate of potassium 1¾ oz. - Powdered spermaceti 1¾ oz. - Starch powder 1 lb. - Benzoin ¾ oz. - Oil of bitter almond 150 grains. - -Mix intimately and preserve in well-closed boxes. For use, stir some -into water. - - -KALODERM. - - Wheat flour 4 lb. - Almond bran 1 lb. - Orris root, in fine powder 1 lb. - Extract of rose 1 pint. - Glycerin 6 fl. oz. - -Form into a dough which is thinned with water and painted on the skin. - - -MUSK PASTE (FOR WASHING THE HANDS). - - Powdered white soap 2 lb. - Orris root, in fine powder ½ lb. - Starch powder 1½ oz. - Oil of lemon ¾ oz. - Oil of neroli 150 grains. - Tincture of musk 1½ fl. oz. - Glycerin 12 fl. oz. - -Rub the starch with the glycerin in a mortar until they are thoroughly -mixed. Then transfer the mixture to a porcelain capsule and apply a -heat gradually raised to 284° F. (and not exceeding 290° F.), stirring -constantly, until the starch granules are completely dissolved, and a -translucent jelly is formed. Then gradually incorporate with it the -powdered soap and orris root, and lastly the oils and tincture. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVII. - -HAIR COSMETICS. - - -The number of preparations used for the care of the hair and beard is -considerable. Unfortunately we are forced to admit that the majority of -them, especially those said to strengthen the scalp and to stimulate -the growth of the hair, are utterly inert. Thus far we know too little -of the natural conditions of growth of the hair to enable us to -compound remedies which would actively aid the efforts of nature in -this direction. - -In like manner we cannot speak with approval of the preparations used -to color the hair, either from a chemico-sanitary or from an æsthetic -standpoint; many of them contain substances which positively injure -the hair or impart to it an unnatural color which is detected at first -sight. But a well-made cosmetic should never produce this effect, and -nature must be faithfully imitated if the preparation is to deserve the -name of a cosmetic. - -With the so-called hair and beard elixirs almost incredible swindles -are perpetrated; the practical perfumer, however, cannot advise against -the use of such worthless preparations among his goods, as they are -in daily demand. This is the reason why we furnish the formulas for -some of these secret preparations; anybody at all familiar with -the principles of chemistry and physiology will recognize their -worthlessness from their composition. The only articles of practical -value are those intended for cleansing the hair, for making it soft and -glossy, some of the hair dyes, and the preparations for fixing the hair -in certain positions. - - -A. Hair Washes. - - -EAU D’ATHÈNES. - - Carbonate of potassium 2½ oz. - Sassafras wood 8 oz. - Rose water 4 qts. - Orange-flower water 4 qts. - Alcohol 1 qt. - -Macerate the ingredients for one month. The carbonate of potassium -and the alcohol cleanse the hair and remove the fat. After using this -wash and drying the hair, its fat and gloss should be restored by the -application of a good pomade or hair oil. - - -EAU GLYCERINÉE AUX CANTHARIDES. - - Ammonia water 3½ oz. - Tincture of cantharides (see below) 3½ oz. - Rosemary water 8 qts. - Glycerin 10½ oz. - Oil of rose ¾ oz. - -The tincture of cantharides is made by macerating 1¾ oz. of powdered -Spanish flies (Lytta vesicatoria) in one quart of strong alcohol. The -caustic ammonia has a similar cleansing effect as the carbonate of -potassium; the glycerin makes the hair soft; the entire preparation is -a happy combination, as it cleanses and softens the hair at the same -time. - - -EAU DE FLEURS; EXTRAIT VÉGÉTAL. - - Extract of cassie 7 oz. - Extract of jasmine 7 oz. - Extract of orange flower 7 oz. - Tincture of tonka 3½ oz. - Extract of tuberose 7 oz. - Tincture of vanilla 3½ oz. - Rose water 2 qts. - Alcohol 2 qts. - - -EAU DE LAURIER. - - Carbonate of ammonium. 5½ oz. - Borax 5½ oz. - Oil of sweet bay ½ oz. - Oil of rose 75 grains. - Rose water 5 qts. - - -EAU DE ROMARIN. - - Carbonate of potassium 1¾ oz. - Rosemary water 4 qts. - Essence of rose (triple) 1 qt. - - -EAU SAPONIQUE. - - Rose water 5 qts. - Rondeletia perfume 10½ oz. - Saffron 75 grains. - Soap 1 oz. - Alcohol 10½ oz. - -Boil the finely divided soap and the saffron with some distilled water -until the soap is completely dissolved, add the other ingredients, mix -intimately, and let stand for some days to allow the coarser particles -of saffron to settle. This preparation has a particularly handsome -appearance; in cut-glass bottles it shows a peculiar opalescence or -iridescence; in transmitted light it represents an almost perfectly -transparent, saffron-yellow liquid. - - -EAU VICTORIA. - - Ammonia water 1 oz. - Expressed oil of almond 1 oz. - Oil of mace 75 grains. - Oil of nutmeg 75 grains. - Essence of rosemary 21 oz. - Rose water 4 lb. - -Mix the ingredients, except the rose water, by vigorous agitation until -a kind of emulsion results. Then add the rose water in small portions, -shaking after each addition. - - -EAU DE ROSES. - - Rose water 5 qts. - Oil of rose 75 grains. - Dissolve in - Alcohol 3½ oz. - And add - Tincture of vanilla 1¾ oz. - Tincture of civet 150 grains. - - -B. Hair Tonics. - - -HAIR RESTORER. - - Tincture of cantharides (see above, page 281) 1¾ oz. - Tincture of nut-galls 1¾ oz. - Extract of musk 150 grains. - Carmine 75 grains. - Alcohol 3½ oz. - Rose water 1 qt. - -Tincture of nut-galls is made by macerating 3½ oz. of powdered -nut-galls in one quart of alcohol. The tincture of cinchona in the -following formula is prepared in the same manner. - - -TANNO-QUININE HAIR RESTORER. - - Tincture of cinchona 1¾ oz. - Tincture of nut-galls 1¾ oz. - Carmine 150 grains. - Oil of neroli 75 grains. - Oil of nutmeg 75 grains. - Alcohol 3½ oz. - Rose water 1 qt. - Orange-flower water 1 qt. - - -BAUME DE MILAN POUR LES CHEVEUX. - - Lard 1 lb. - Expressed oil of almond 1 lb. - Spermaceti 1¾ oz. - Carmine 150 grains. - Tincture of cantharides ¾ oz. - Tincture of storax 1 oz. - Tincture of tolu 1 oz. - - -BEARD PRODUCER. - - Lard 1 lb. - Expressed oil of almond 1 lb. - Spermaceti ¾ oz. - Cantharides ¾ oz. - Carmine 150 grains. - Oil of bergamot 75 grains. - Oil of lavender 75 grains. - Oil of santal 75 grains. - -Rub the cantharides with the carmine to the finest possible powder; add -this with the essential oils to the other ingredients. - -Formulas for similar hair tonics might be given to the number of -several hundreds; but we repeat what we have said above—they do not -produce the desired result. - -While the well-known bay rum is used more as a face lotion or -refreshing skin tonic, particularly after shaving, or when perspiring -in hot weather, yet it is also often used as a wash for the scalp, -and is popularly believed to stimulate the growth of hair, which is -in reality not the case. We shall therefore give a formula for its -preparation here: - - -BAY RUM. - - Oil of bay (from Myrcia acris) 240 grains. - Oil of orange (bigarade) 16 grains. - Oil of Pimenta 16 grains. - Alcohol 1 qt. - Water 25 fl. oz. - -Dissolve the oils in the alcohol and add the water. Mix the liquid with -about 2 oz. of precipitated phosphate of lime, and filter. It will -improve by age. - -Genuine bay rum is imported from the West Indies (St. Thomas, etc.), -where a crude kind of alcohol, obtained in connection with the -manufacture of rum from molasses, is distilled with the fresh leaves -of the bay-tree (Myrcia acris). The oil of bay obtained from this must -not be confounded with the oil of sweet bay. The latter, as it appears -in commerce, is a crude mixture of a fixed with a volatile oil. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVIII. - -HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES. - - -The custom of dyeing the hair is universal in the Orient; in the -Occident, however, hair dyes are also frequently used, namely, to hide -the grayness of the hair, sometimes to give the hair a preferred color. -Hair dyes, which are very numerous, may be divided into groups—those -containing the dye-stuff ready formed, and those in which it is -produced in the hair by some chemical process. Some hair dyes contain -substances which in their nature are decidedly injurious to the hair; -such articles, of course, must be dispensed with because, if frequently -employed, they would certainly lead to baldness. We shall return to -this subject in connection with the several preparations. - -Regarding the use of hair dyes, especially those consisting of two -separate portions, we may state that it is necessary to remove the fat -from the hair before applying the dye, as the chemicals in question do -not adhere well to fat. The hair should be thoroughly washed once or -twice with soap, and dyed when nearly dry. - -When dyeing the hair the preparations should first be diluted; if the -color is not deep enough, the process is repeated. If the preparation -is used at once in a concentrated form, a color may result which has no -resemblance to any natural tint; hair meant to be black may assume a -metallic bluish-black gloss. - - -A. Simple Hair Dyes. - - -LEAD HAIR DYE. - - Oxide of lead 4 lb. - Quicklime 1 lb. - Calcined magnesia 1 lb. - -The ingredients are rubbed to a very fine powder and for use are mixed -with water, applied to the hair, and left there until the desired -tint—light brown to black—is obtained, from four to twelve hours, when -the powder is removed by washing. The lime by its caustic effect acts -destructively on the horny substance of the hair. Moreover, _all lead -preparations_ without exception are _very injurious_ to the organism; -hence this hair dye is to be rejected, especially as there are harmless -preparations which produce the same effect. - - -KARSI (TEINTURE ORIENTALE). - - Ambergris 75 grains. - Nut-galls 4 lb. - Iron filings 1¾ oz. - Copper filings 30 grains. - Musk 30 grains. - -This preparation, which really comes from the Orient, is made as -follows: Reduce the nut-galls to a very fine powder and roast them -in an iron pan under continual stirring until they have become dark -brown or almost black. This powder is triturated with the metals in -fine powder and the aromatics, and preserved in a moist place. For -use, some of the powder is moistened in the palm of the hand and -vigorously rubbed into the hair; after a few days it assumes a deep -black, natural color. The roasting changes the tannin bodies contained -in the galls into gallic and pyrogallic acids which form deep black -combinations with the metals, and themselves are easily transformed -into brownish-black substances. - - -KOHOL (TEINTURE CHINOISE). - - Gum arabic 1 oz. - India ink 1¾ oz. - Rose water 1 qt. - -Powder the ink and the gum, and triturate small quantities of the -powder with rose water until a uniform black liquid results, which must -be free from granules. This liquid is placed in a bottle and the rest -of the rose water added. Kohol can be used only by persons with black -hair, and is employed particularly for dyeing the eyebrows. As the -coloring matter of this preparation consists of carbon in a state of -fine division, the dye is perfectly harmless. - - -VEGETABLE DYE. - - Silver nitrate 2 oz. - Distilled water 1 qt. - -This hair dye produces a deep black color, but cannot be recommended, -as it is injurious to the hair. Its full effects appear only after the -lapse of some hours. - - -POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE. - - Potassium permanganate 5½ oz. - Distilled water 2 qts. - -Crystalline potassium permanganate is soluble in water, forming -a dark violet solution. When brought in contact with an organic -substance—paper, linen, skin, horn, hair—it is rapidly decolored and -imparts to the substances named a brown tint due to hydrated oxide of -manganese. The hair is washed, as stated above, to remove the fat, and -the dilute solution applied with a soft brush; the color is produced at -once and according to the degree of dilution this innocuous preparation -can be made to give any desired color from blond to very dark brown. -Of course, this preparation can be used for the beard as well as the -hair. - -All the hair dyes here and elsewhere given stain the skin as well -wherever they come in contact with it; hence care should be taken to -protect the skin during their application. - - -B. Double Hair Dyes. - - -SILVER HAIR DYES. - -This and similar hair dyes consist of two preparations, preserved in -bottles I. and II.; the latter, containing the silver solution, should -be of dark amber-colored or black glass, as the silver salts are -decomposed by light. It is utterly useless to employ blue glass for -this purpose, as this admits the chemical rays of light as easily as -flint glass. For use, some of the liquid from bottle I. is poured into -a cup and the hair is moistened with it by means of a soft brush. The -liquid from bottle II. is poured into a second cup and applied with -another brush. - - -BROWN DYE. - -I. (_In White Bottle._) - - Sulphide of potassium 7 oz. - Alcohol 1 qt. - - -II. (_In Dark Bottle._) - - Silver nitrate 4¼ oz. - Distilled water 1 qt. - - -BLACK DYE. - -I. (_In White Bottle._) - - Sulphide of potassium ½ lb. - Alcohol 1 qt. - - -II. (_In Dark Bottle._) - - Silver nitrate 5½ oz. - Distilled water 1 qt. - -The sulphide of potassium (liver of sulphur) appears in fragments of a -liver-brown mass which readily dissolves in water. The solution must be -filtered before being filled into bottles for sale, and, as it becomes -turbid in the air, kept in well-closed vessels. When the two solutions -are brought together, black sulphide of silver results and darkens -the hair. After the use of this preparation a disagreeable odor of -rotten eggs adheres to the hair, but can be easily removed by washing, -especially with one of the previously mentioned hair washes. - -The silver hair dye will be still better if the liquid contained in -bottle II. is made by dropping into the solution, under continual -stirring, ammonia water, until the precipitate first formed is again -dissolved. - - -MELANOGÈNE. - -I. (_In Dark Bottle._) - - Silver nitrate 150 grains. - Distilled water 2¾ oz. - Ammonia water 1 oz. - - -II. (_In White Bottle._) - - Pyrogallic acid 15 grains. - Alcohol of 40% 1 pint. - - -TANNIN HAIR DYE. - -I. (_In White Bottle._) - - Powdered nut-galls 14 oz. - Water 1 pint. - Rose water 1 pint. - -Boil the nut-galls in the water, strain the boiling liquid through a -thick cloth into the rose water, and fill the still hot mixture into -bottles which must be immediately closed. (It is essential that the -liquid be hot during the filling, to guard against the development of -mould.) - - -II. (_In Dark Bottle._) - - Silver nitrate 5½ oz. - Distilled water 1 qt. - -Add ammonia water to the silver solution until the precipitate first -formed is again dissolved. - - -EAU D’AFRIQUE. - -I. (_In Dark Bottle._) - - Silver nitrate 45 grains. - Distilled water 3½ oz. - - -II. (_In White Bottle._) - - Sulphide of sodium 120 grains. - Distilled water 3½ oz. - - -CRINOCHROM. - -I. (_In White Bottle._) - - Pyrogallic acid 150 grains. - Distilled water 6¼ oz. - Alcohol 5¾ oz. - - -II. (_In Dark Bottle._) - - Silver nitrate 180 grains. - Ammonia water 2 oz. - Distilled water 10½ oz. - - -COPPER HAIR DYE. - -I. (_In White Bottle._) - - Ferrocyanide of potassium 7 oz. - Distilled water 1 qt. - - -II. (_In Dark Bottle._) - - Sulphate of copper 7 oz. - Distilled water 1 qt. - -Add ammonia water to the copper solution until the light blue -precipitate first formed again dissolves to a rich, dark blue liquid. -This hair dye gives a dark brown color. - - -EAU DE FONTAINE DE JOUVENCE, - -also called Auricome and Golden Hair Water, is no dye, but a bleaching -agent which changes dark hair to a light blond or golden-yellow -color. The preparation consists of peroxide of hydrogen, a substance -possessing marked bleaching properties. - -Peroxide of hydrogen, or hydrogen dioxide, is at the present time made -on a large scale by many manufacturers, and readily obtainable in the -market. It would therefore scarcely pay any one to prepare it himself -unless he were out of reach of the usual channels of trade, so that he -could not obtain the preparation in a _fresh_ state. Nevertheless it -may be useful to state how it is made. Barium dioxide (or peroxide), -which is a regular article of commerce, and is a stable compound which -will keep for any length of time if kept in tightly closed bottles, is -treated with water until the dioxide forms with it a thin, smooth milk. -This is gradually added to dilute sulphuric acid, cooled with ice or -kept otherwise as cold as possible, until the sulphuric acid is almost -entirely neutralized. The solution is then allowed to settle and the -clear liquid drawn off. For bleaching purposes, this is pure enough. -Only it must be ascertained that the amount of free acid present, -without which the hydrogen dioxide does not keep well, is only small. -Other acids can be used besides sulphuric, but the latter is the most -convenient. If an alkali is added to hydrogen dioxide so that the -reaction becomes alkaline, it will decompose very rapidly. Even under -the most favorable circumstances (when acid, and kept in a cool place) -it will gradually deteriorate, and finally be entirely converted into -oxygen gas, which escapes, and plain water. - -Peroxide or dioxide of hydrogen, when applied to the hair as a -bleaching agent, must be used in a dilute condition at first. Those -who use it for the first time should always make preliminary trials -with the liquid upon odd bunches of hair (such as may at any time -be procured at hair-dressers’ shops) resembling that which is to be -bleached, before actually applying it to the latter. - -The hair to be bleached is deprived of fat by washing with soap -solution, the soap is washed out with water, and the peroxide of -hydrogen applied. - - -WHISKER DYE. - - I. Acetate of lead 1¾ oz. - Distilled water 1 pint. - - II. Caustic potassa ¾ oz. - Distilled water 1 qt. - -Dissolve the acetate of lead (“sugar of lead”) in the warm water, -filter the solution, and add ammonia water until a precipitate ceases -to form. Collect the precipitate on a filter, wash it by pouring -distilled water over it eight or ten times, and while still moist -introduce it into solution II. Stir repeatedly, and after twelve hours -leave the vessel at rest until the solution has become clear. Then -decant it from the sediment, which may be treated a second time with -solution II. For use, the beard is washed with soap, and combed with a -fine rubber comb dipped in the solution. - - -C. Depilatories. - -Combinations of sulphur with the alkaline metals calcium, barium, -and strontium rapidly destroy the hair; for this reason tanners use -the “gas lime” from gas works, which contains calcium sulphide, for -removing the hair from hides. All the depilatories used cosmetically, -even rhusma employed in the Orient for removing the beard, owe their -activity to the presence of calcium sulphide. - - -CALCIUM SULPHIDE - -has usually been lauded as a perfectly harmless depilatory. This is -a great mistake, however, since it has often done serious harm, -through careless application by persons unfamiliar with its caustic -and corrosive effects. It is absolutely necessary to protect the -_skin_ against its action; otherwise superficial irritation, or even -destruction of the skin may result. - -Calcium sulphide cannot be made by the action of sulphuretted hydrogen -upon lime. It is usually made by heating at a low red heat, in a -securely closed crucible, an intimate mixture of 100 parts of finely -powdered quicklime with 90 parts of precipitated sulphur. Mix together: - - Calcium sulphide 4 oz. - Sugar 2 oz. - Water 2 oz. - Starch powder 2 oz. - Oil of lemon 30 grains. - Oil of peppermint 10 grains. - -The resulting mass must be filled at once into an air-tight jar, as -the calcium sulphide is decomposed in the atmosphere. For use, some -of the mass is moistened with water, painted on the skin, and washed -off with water after thirty to forty-five minutes. This and all other -depilatories act only temporarily, that is, they destroy only the hair -projecting above the surface without killing the hair bulbs; after some -time the hair grows again and the preparation must be reapplied. - - -BARIUM SULPHIDE, - -which is likewise used as a depilatory, is made by heating barium -sulphate with charcoal, extracting the residue with water, and mixing -the resulting product with starch paste. In its effects barium sulphide -equals the preceding preparation, but it decomposes more readily. - - -DEPILATORY PASTE. - - Powdered caustic lime 2 lb. - Starch powder 2 lb. - Sodium sulphide 21 oz. - -Sodium sulphide is made by saturating strong caustic soda solution with -sulphuretted hydrogen. The other ingredients are added to the solution -of sodium sulphide. - - -RHUSMA - -is a depilatory made by mixing powdered quicklime (unslaked) with -orpiment (yellow sulphide of arsenic). Take of: - - Quicklime 4 lb. - Orpiment 10½ oz. - -Mix intimately and preserve the powder in tightly closed vessels. For -use, take some of the powder, reduce it to a thin paste with water, -and apply it to the place upon which the hairs are to be destroyed. -Owing to its poisonousness and the destructive effects of the caustic -lime on the skin, this preparation should never be employed in cosmetic -perfumery. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIX. - -WAX POMADES, BANDOLINES, AND BRILLIANTINES. - - -The so-called wax pomades, stick pomatum, and bandolines serve to -stiffen the hair and are frequently employed by hair dressers. The -former two articles possess some adhesive power by which they fasten -the hair together; bandolines are mucilaginous fluids which generally -contain bassorin (or vegetable mucilage present in tragacanth), quince -seeds, etc. - - -A. Wax Pomades. - -STICK POMATUM. - -This is usually formed into oval or round sticks which are wrapped -in tin foil. They are colored and perfumed as desired. The ordinary -varieties are: white, for light blond hair, which is left uncolored; -pink, colored with carmine; brown, colored with umber; and black, -colored with bone black. The coloring matters are always rubbed up with -oil. Red pomatum may be colored with alkanet root, which is macerated -for some time with the melted fat. The base of these preparations -consists of: - - Lard 4 lb. - Tallow 12 lb. - Wax 6 lb. - -The mass may be made harder or softer by increasing or diminishing the -wax. The perfumes generally used are oils of bergamot, lemon, clove, -and thyme, with an addition of some Peru balsam. - - -B. Beard Wax. - - -BEARD WAX (CIRE À MOUSTACHES). - - Turpentine 2 lb. - Expressed oil of almond 2 lb. - Wax 6 lb. - Violet pomade 2 lb. - Peru balsam 1 lb. - Oil of clove 1 oz. - Oil of santal ¾ oz. - Oil of cinnamon ¾ oz. - - -HUNGARIAN BEARD WAX (CIRE À MOUSTACHE HONGROISE.) - - Castile soap, powdered 3½ oz. - Mucilage of acacia 10 oz. - White wax 9 oz. - Glycerin 3½ oz. - Oil of bergamot 20 drops. - Oil of lemon 10 drops. - Oil of rose 10 drops. - -Rub the powdered soap with the mucilage, previously diluted with nine -ounces of water, then add the wax and glycerin, and heat the mass on a -water-bath, stirring constantly, until it becomes homogeneous. Lastly -add the oils, and pour the mass into suitable moulds. - -For brown or black wax the corresponding color is added. The mass is -formed into sticks the thickness of a lead pencil. - - -C. Bandolines. - - -BANDOLINE AUX AMANDES. - - Tragacanth 14 oz. - Rose water 8 qts. - Oil of bitter almond ¾ oz. - -Crush the tragacanth, place it in the rose water, and leave it at rest -in a warm spot, stirring occasionally, until the tragacanth has swollen -to a slimy mass. Press it first through a coarse and then through a -finer cloth, add a little carmine and the oil of bitter almond. - - -BANDOLINE À LA ROSE. - -This is made like the preceding, only substituting 1½ oz. of oil of -rose for the oil of bitter almond. Other varieties may be produced by -the use of different odors. - - -D. Brillantines. - -Under various names preparations are placed on the market which render -the hair both soft and glossy. The chief constituent of all these -articles is glycerin which is perfumed according to taste and stained -reddish or violet. As many aniline colors easily dissolve in glycerin, -they are generally used for this purpose. Formerly, before glycerin -was obtainable in sufficient purity, brillantines were chiefly made of -castor oil dissolved in alcohol, but aside from the fact that glycerin -is cheaper than castor oil with alcohol, the former is preferable, as -alcohol injures the hair. - - -BRILLANTINE. - - Glycerin 8 lb. - Extract of jasmine (or other flower) 2 qts. - - -OLÉOLISSE. - - Glycerin 4 lb. - Castor oil 4 lb. - Oil of bergamot ¾ oz. - Oil of lemon ¾ oz. - Oil of neroli 150 grains. - - - - -CHAPTER XXX. - -THE COLORS USED IN PERFUMERY. - - -In perfumes in which next to the odor, the appearance is of importance, -the colors play a prominent part. - -In handkerchief perfumes, any accidental color present is an obstacle, -as it would cause stains on the material. Hence the aim is to obtain -the perfumes colorless or—a highly prized quality in fine articles—they -receive a pale green color which disappears on drying. Extract of -cassie possesses this color, and in many cases this extract is added to -perfumes for the purpose of giving them this favorite color. - -Regarding the colors employed for other articles—emulsions, pomades, -soaps, etc.—it may be stated as a general rule that a preparation named -after a certain flower must possess the color of the latter. Hence all -perfumes named after the rose should be rose red; violet perfumes, -violet; those bearing the name of the lily or white rose must be -colorless, etc. - -The best for articles containing alcohol or glycerin are the aniline -colors, both on account of their beautiful appearance and their -extraordinary staining power. But an insurmountable obstacle is met -with in their use for articles containing animal or vegetable fats -which rapidly destroy many aniline colors. When a rose pomade is -colored with aniline red, the fine delicate tint hardly lasts three or -four weeks and changes into dirty gray. The same is true of aniline -violet in violet pomade, etc. - -Therefore, articles containing fat must receive other dye-stuffs, and -in the following pages we briefly enumerate those we have found most -appropriate; but it must be observed that all poisonous dyes must be -absolutely excluded. Commercial aniline colors formerly often contained -arsenic; at the present time other processes are usually employed for -their preparation, not involving the employment of arsenious acid. - - -YELLOW COLORS. - - -_Saffron._ - -The stigmata of Crocus sativus contain a bright yellow or orange yellow -coloring matter which is easily extracted by alcohol, petroleum ether, -or fat. We prefer petroleum ether in which the finely powdered saffron -is macerated, the greater portion of the solvent being distilled off, -and the rest of the solution is allowed to evaporate, when the pure -coloring matter is left and can be easily mixed with fat. The coloring -matter may also be obtained by macerating the saffron in melted lard or -in olive oil. - - -_Jonquille Pomade._ - -Genuine jonquille pomade, from Narcissus Jonquilla, has a handsome -yellow color which is derived from the dark yellow flowers; for this -reason small quantities of jonquille pomade are sometimes used for -coloring pomades for the hair. - - -_Curcuma or Turmeric._ - -Curcuma or turmeric root contains a very beautiful yellow coloring -matter which is easily extracted by alcohol or petroleum ether. We -prepare it in the same manner as stated under the head of saffron. -Curcuma color cannot be used for articles containing free alkali, which -changes it to brown. - - -_Palm Oil._ - -has naturally a fine yellow color, which it imparts also to soaps -prepared from it; but the color fades completely when the wet soap is -exposed to the air. - - -RED COLORS. - - -_Carmine._ - -This magnificent, though very expensive color is obtained from the -cochineal insect, Coccus cacti. If good carmine is not available, a -substitute may be made, for the purpose of coloring perfumery articles, -by powdering cochineal, treating it with dilute caustic ammonia, and, -after adding some alum solution, exposing it to the air and direct -sunlight, when the coloring matter separates in handsome red flakes, -which are collected and dried. - - -_Carthamin Red._ - -Safflower, the blossoms of Carthamus tinctorius, contains two coloring -matters, yellow and red. The former is extracted with water from the -dried flowers, and the residue is treated with a weak soda solution -which dissolves the red coloring matter. When this solution is -gradually diluted with acetic acid, the dye is precipitated, and after -drying forms a mass with a greenish metallic lustre. This, when reduced -to powder, is used for rouge en feuilles or rouge en tasses. - -This coloring matter can also be prepared by introducing into the soda -solution some clean white cotton on which the color is precipitated and -can then be extracted with alcohol. - - -_Alkanet._ - -This root, which is readily obtained in the market, contains a -beautiful red coloring matter which can be extracted with petroleum -ether, but is also easily soluble in fats (melted lard or warm oil). -Even small amounts of it produce a handsome rose red and larger -quantities a dark purple. For pomades, hair oils, and emulsions alkanet -root is the best coloring matter, as it stains them rapidly, is -lasting, and cheap. - - -_Rhatany._ - -Rhatany root furnishes a reddish-brown coloring matter which is -soluble in alcohol and is extracted with it from the comminuted root, -especially for tooth tinctures and mouth washes. For the same purpose -use may also be made of red santal wood and Pernambuco wood which -likewise yield to alcohol, besides astringents, beautiful colors which -are very suitable for such preparations. - - -GREEN COLORS. - - -_Chlorophyll._ - -The green coloring matter of leaves is easily extracted from them, -when bruised, with alcohol, and is left behind after the evaporation -of the solvent. Some powders which are to have a green color are mixed -directly with dried and finely divided bright green leaves such as -spinach, celery, parsley leaves, etc. - -For soap it is customary to use a mixture of yellow and blue which -together produce a green color. Take a yellow soap, melt it, and add -to it the finest powder of smalt or ultramarine until the desired tint -is obtained. Indigo-carmine cannot be used, as it would impart a blue -color to the skin. - - -BLUE COLORS. - -For many preparations smalt or ultramarine is employed, but these -colors are insoluble. The only soluble blue colors are aniline blue and -indigo-carmine; the latter has a beautiful and intense color, but is -suitable only for pomades and not for soaps because, as stated above, -it would stain the skin. - - -VIOLET - -is produced by a mixture of red and blue in due proportions. - - -BROWN - -is produced by caramel, which is made by heating sugar in an iron pot -until it changes into a deep black mass which is brown only in thin -threads. This color dissolves easily in water (not in alcohol) and is -very suitable for soaps. - - -BLACK - -is produced by finely divided vegetable or bone black. Liquids are -colored with India ink which remains suspended for a long time owing to -the fine division of the carbon. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXI. - -THE UTENSILS USED IN THE TOILET. - - -In the toilet, besides combs and hair brushes, use is made of powder -puffs, tooth brushes, and bath sponges. Powder puffs are made from swan -skins, but should be used rather for the even division of the powder or -paint than for its application. For the latter purpose a piece of soft -glove or chamois leather is best. - -The commercial tooth brushes are almost without exception objectionable -owing to the stiffness of the bristles. A suitable tooth brush should -be made of very soft, flexible bristles, lest it wear away the enamel. - -Particular attention should be devoted to bath sponges. Their value -is proportionate to the fineness of the pores, their softness and -elasticity, and their spherical shape. Crude sponges are best cleansed -by being placed in dilute hydrochloric acid which dissolves the -calcareous particles adhering to them. - -They are bleached as follows. - -Free them as far as possible from sand and other foreign matters. Then -wash them thoroughly with water, and press them. Next introduce them -into a solution of permanganate of potassium containing one ounce of -the salt in a gallon; leave them in this liquid two or three minutes; -then take them out, express the liquid (which can be several times -used over again), wash them with water until no more violet-tinted -liquid runs from them, and then immerse them in a solution of one -part of hyposulphite of sodium in twenty parts of water, to which -immediately before dipping the sponges one part of hydrochloric acid -has been added. When the sponge’s are white, remove them and wash them -thoroughly with water. - -After prolonged use, bath sponges lose their elasticity and softness. -These properties can be restored by dipping the sponges into a mixture -of one part by measure of glycerin and eight parts of water, pressing -out the excess of the liquid and allowing them to dry. The small -quantity of glycerin which they contain prevents their hardening. - - - - -INDEX. - - - À la mode perfume, 186 - - Absorption, 101 - - Acacia farnesiana, 26 - - Acetic ether, 80 - - Acid, acetic, 76 - benzoic, 74 - carbonic, apparatus, 112 - carbonic, for absorption of odors, 102 - perfumes, 202 - pyrogallic, 84 - salicylic, preservation of fats by, 79 - - Acorus Calamus, 50 - - Adulteration of essential oils with alcohol, 144 - of essential oils with fixed oils, 144 - of essential oils with other essential oils, 143 - of essential oils with paraffin, spermaceti, or wax, 145 - - Adulterations of essential oils and their recognition, 139 - - Alcohol, 63 - absolute, manufacture of, 68 - amyl, 71 - percentage tables of, 70 - source of, influence on perfumes, 72 - - Alcoholometer, Tralles’, 69 - - Alkanet, 299 - - Alloxan, 73, 274 - - Allspice, 21 - - Allspice, essence of, 159 - - Almond and honey paste, 234 - balls, 244 - cold-cream, 243 - cream, 230 - meal, 234 - paste, simple, 233 - - Almonds, bitter, 24 - sweet, 50 - - Aloysia citriodora, 54 - - Amandes amères, 24 - - Amandes douces, 50 - - Amandine, 230 - - Ambergris, 57 - tincture of, 151 - - Ambra grisea, 57 - - Ammonia, 73 - carbonate of, 74 - - Ammoniacal perfumes, 199 - - Amygdala amara, 24 - dulcis, 50 - - Amyl alcohol, 71 - - Ananas, 44 - - Ancients, perfumery among the, 2 - - Andropogon citratus, 30, 35 - laniger, 30 - muricatus, 30, 54 - Nardus, 29 - Schoenanthus, 30 - - Aneth, 31 - - Anethum graveolens, 31 - - Animal substances used in perfumery, 57 - - Anise, 21 - - Anti-Odorin, 278 - - Apple ether, 81 - - Aromatic substances, division of, according to their origin, 8 - substances in general, 6 - substances, relative strength of, 7 - substances, special characteristics of, 118 - substances, vegetable, chemical constitution of, 15 - substances, vegetable, employed in perfumery, 20 - vinegar, 203 - waters, 113, 167 - - Aspic, 35 - - Attar of rose, 133 - - Auricome, 291 - - - Badiane, 48 - - Baguettes encensoires, 216 - - Baisers du printemps, 170 - - Balm, 22 - - Balsamodendron Kafal, 41 - Myrrha, 39 - - Balsamum peruvianum, 43 - tolutanum, 51 - - Bandolines, 296 - - Barium sulphide, 293 - - Baume de Milan pour les cheveux, 283 - du Pérou, 43 - de Tolou, 51 - - Bay rum, 284 - sweet, 22 - West Indian, 22 - - Beard producer, 284 - wax, 295 - - Bear’s-grease pomade, 250 - - Beef-marrow pomade, 251 - - Benjoin, 23 - - Benzene, 66 - - Benzin, 66 - - Benzoated oil, 255 - - Benzoic acid, 74 - acid, sublimed, manufacture of, 75 - - - Benzoin, 23 - and benzoic acid, use of, for preventing rancidity of fats, 79 - pomade, 248 - tincture of, 151 - - Benzol, 66 - - Bergamot, 24 - essence of, 152 - - Bisamkörner, 38 - - Bismuth, subnitrate of, 86 - - Bismuth white, 86, 271 - - Bisulphide of carbon, 66 - - Bitter almond, essence of, 152 - almond milk, 238 - almonds, 24 - - Black color, 301 - - Blanc de bismuth, 86 - de perles, 86, 278 - français, 271 - perle liquide, 271 - - Bleu végetal pour les veines, 273 - - Blossom pomade, 250 - - Blue colors, 300 - - Bois de camphre, 25 - de cèdre, 27 - de rose, 45 - - Borated tooth powder, 262 - tooth tincture, 266 - - Borax, 75 - - Bouquet à la maréchale, 186 - cosmopolite, 180 - court, 173 - d’Andorre, 171 - de Chypre, 172 - de fleurs, 172 - de flore, 176 - de la cour, 171 - de l’Alhambra, 169 - de l’amour, 169 - de Stamboul, 194 - d’Esterhazy, 173 - de Virginie, 195 - des chasseurs, 171 - des délices, 172 - d’Irlande, 177 - du Bosphore, 171 - du Japon, 178 - heliotrope, 194 - leap-year, 184 - Royal Horse-Guard’s, 177 - - Bouquets, manufacture of, 167 - - Brillantines, 296 - - Bromelia Ananas, 44 - - Brown color, 301 - - Bruges ribbons, 219 - - Buckingham flowers, 170 - - - Cachous aromatisées, 263 - - Cajuput leaves, 25 - - Calamus, essence of, 152 - - Calcium sulphide, 292 - - Camphor, 121 - balls, 241 - - - Camphor cold-cream, 240 - ice, 240 - wood, 25 - - Camphorated chalk tooth powder, 262 - Cologne water, 266 - - Canelle, 27 - - Cantharidal pomade, 248 - - Cantharides, tincture of, 281 - - Caramel, 301 - - Carbon, bisulphide of, 66 - - Carbonate of ammonia, 74 - - Carbonic acid apparatus, 112 - acid for absorption of odors, 102 - - Carmine, 299 - - Carthamin red, 299 - - Carum Carvi, 25 - - Carvi, 25 - - Caryophylli, 30 - - Caryophyllus aromaticus, 30 - - Cascarilla bark, 26 - gratissima, 26 - - Cassia, 28 - - Cassie, 26, 28 - extract of, 151 - - Castor, Castoreum, 58 - tincture of, 152 - - Castor-oil pomade, 252 - - Cedar, essence of, 152 - perfume, 174 - tincture of, 152 - wood, 27 - - Cèdre du Libanon perfume, 174 - - Cedrus libanotica, 27 - - Ceylon sachet powder, 209 - - Chalk, prepared, manufacture of, 261 - Venetian, 271 - - Chapped skin, lotion for, 275 - - Characteristics, special, of aromatic substances, 118 - - Charcoal objectionable as a tooth powder, 259 - tooth powder, 263 - - Cheiranthus Cheiri, 55 - - Chemical constitution of vegetable aromatic substances, 15 - products used for the preparation of perfumes, 68 - products used in perfumery, 63 - - Chemicals used for the extraction of aromatic substances, 64 - - Cherry salve, 243 - - Cherrylaurel leaves, 29 - - Chèvre-feuille, 33 - - China rose perfume, 192 - roses, extract of, 161 - - Chinese gelatin, 80 - tooth powder, 264 - - Chloral mouth wash, 267 - - Chloroform, 65 - - Chlorophyll, 300 - - Cinchona bark tooth powder, 262 - pomade, 251 - - Cinnamomum, 27 - - Cinnamomum Culilavan Nees, 31 - zeylanicum, 28 - - Cinnamon, 27 - Chinese, 28 - tincture of, 165 - - Circassian pomade, 248 - - Cire à moustaches, 295 - - Citron, 28 - flowers, 29 - - Citronella, 29 - essence of, 153 - - Citrus Aurantium, 41 - Bergamia, 24 - limetta, 35 - Limonum, 35 - medica, 28 - vulgaris, 41 - - Civet, 62 - tincture of, 165 - - Civetta, 62 - - Clous de girofle, 30 - - Clove, 30 - essence of, 157 - - Cold-creams and lip salves, 238 - - Cologne cold-cream, 242 - water, 180 - - Colors used in perfumery, 87, 297 - - Concombre, 31 - - Convallaria perfume, 172 - - Convolvulus floridus, 45 - scoparius, 45 - - Cortex Aurantii, 41 - Cascarillæ, 26 - Culilavan, 31 - - Cosmetic perfumery, 225, 269 - - Cosmetics, hair, 280 - skin, and face lotions, 270 - skin, red, 272 - skin, white, 271 - - Couronne de fleurs, 173 - - Court bouquet, 173 - - Craie venétienne, 271 - - Crême de Cologne, 242 - de moëlle, 251 - de ricine, 252 - de vanille, 253 - de violettes, 244 - - Crinochrom, 290 - - Crisp mint, 38 - - Croton Eluteria, 26 - - Crystallized oil, 249 - - Cucumber, 31 - cold-cream, 242 - extract of, 154 - milk, 237 - - Cucumis sativus, 31 - - Culilaban bark, 31 - - Cuminum Cyminum, 26 - - Curcuma, 298 - - Currant, black, 27 - - Cuscus, 30, 54 - - Cuttlefish-bone tooth powder 263 - - Cyprian sachet powder, 209 - - - Dandelion milk, 237 - - Depilatories, 292 - - Dianthus caryophyllus, 44 - - Dill, 31 - - Dipteryx odorata, 52 - - Displacement, 111 - - Distillation, 92 - fractional, 143 - - Divine pomade, 241 - - Dog-rose perfume, 193 - - Double pomades, 249 - - Drop presses, 90 - - Dry perfumes, 207 - - Dye, black, 288 - brown, 288 - vegetable, 287 - - - Eau anathérine, 265 - d’Afrique, 290 - d’anges, 39 - d’Athènes, 281 - de Berlin, 170 - de Botot, 265 - de Cologne, 180 - de fleurs, 281 - de fontaine de jouvence, 291 - de laurier, 282 - de lavande à mille fleurs, 184 - de lavande ambrée, 183 - de lavande double, 184 - de Leipsic, 184 - de Lisbonne, 185 - de Luce, 202 - de Mialhe, 267 - de Milan, 266 - de mille fleurs, 186 - de mille fleurs à palmarose, 187 - de perles, 276 - de romarin, 282 - de rose triple, 160 - de roses, 283 - de salvia, 268 - de violettes, 268 - du Portugal, 190 - glycerinée aux cantharides, 281 - hongroise, 195 - japonaise, 178 - lenticuleuse, 275 - saponique, 282 - Victoria, 282 - - Eaux aromatisées, 113 - encensoires, 220 - - Ecorce culilaban, 31 - d’oranges, 41 - - Eglantine perfume, 193 - - Elais guineensis, 42 - - Elder flowers, 32 - - Emulsions, 227, 230 - - Encens, 40 - - Enfleurage, 101 - - Esprit de roses triple, 161 - - Ess. bouquet, 175 - - Essence de roses blanches, 162 - - Essence de roses jaunes, 161 - de roses jumelles, 162 - de styrax, 162 - definition of, 150 - des bouquets, 175 - meaning of the French term, 14 - of mirbane, 83 - - Essences dentifrices, 265 - directions for making, 150 - employed in perfumery, 146 - fruit, 82 - removal of fat from, 149 - - Essential oil a misnomer, 14 - oils, adulteration of, with alcohol, 144 - oils, adulteration of, with fixed oils, 144 - oils, adulteration of, with other essential - oils, 143 - oils, adulteration of, with paraffin, spermaceti, or wax, 145 - oils, adulterations of, and their recognition, 139 - oils, chemical and physical properties of, 16 - oils, final purification of, 112 - oils, oxygenation of, 18 - oils, preservation of, 19 - oils, table showing the approximate density, boiling and congealing - points of, 141 - oils, yield of, 113 - - Esterhazy bouquet, 173 - - Ether, 64 - acetic, 80 - apple, 81 - nitrous, 81 - œnanthic, 71 - pear, 81 - petroleum, 65 - pine-apple, 81 - - Ethers, fruit, 81, 82 - - Eugenia Pimenta, 21 - - Excelsior extraction apparatus, 107 - - Extract, definition of, 150 - - Extraction, 103 - apparatus, 103 et seq. - of aromatic substances, chemicals used for, 64 - of odors, 87 - - Extracts, directions for making, 150 - employed in perfumery, 146 - - Extrait d’amande, 152 - d’ambre, 169 - d’ambregris, 151 - d’ambrette, 152 - de baume de tolou, 162 - de benjoin, 151 - de bergamotte, 252 - de bois de cèdre, 152 - de canelle, 165 - de cassie, 151 - de castoreum, 152 - de cèdre, 152 - de chèvre-feuille, 153, 176 - de civette, 165 - de clous de girofles, 157 - de concombre, 154 - de fleurs d’oranges, 158 - de gaulthérie, 165 - de giroflé, 155, 184 - de glaïeul, 152 - d’églantine, 161 - de héliotrope, 154, 176 - de jasmin, 155 - de jonquille, 157, 179 - de lavande, 155 - de lilas, 153, 174 - de limon, 156 - de lys, 156, 185 - de magnolia, 156, 185 - de menthe, 156 - de mignonette, 159 - de musc, 156, 188 - de myrte, 157, 189 - de narcisse, 157, 189 - d’encens, 165 - de néroli, 158 - de patchouli, 158, 191 - de Pérou, 159 - de piment, 159 - de pois de senteur, 159, 190 - de rosa théa, 162 - de rose, 159 - de roses mousseuses, 161 - de roses triple, 161 - de santal, 162 - de Schoenanthe, 153 - de tonka, 163 - de tuberose, 163 - de vanille, 163 - de verveine, 163, 196 - de vétiver, 165 - de violette, 163 - de volcameria, 164 - d’iris, 163 - d’oeillet, 158, 190 - d’oliban, 165 - végétal, 281 - - - Fabæ Tonkæ, 52 - - Face lotions, 274 - - Farine d’amandes, 234 - de pistaches, 235 - - Fats, 77 - purification of, 77, 246 - rancidity of, prevention of, 79 - - Fennel, 32 - - Fenouil, 32 - - Ferula Sumbul, 49 - - Fèves de Tonka, 52 - - Field-flower sachet powder, 209 - - Fiori d’Italia, 174 - - Fleurs de citron, 29 - de mai perfume, 172 - de Montpellier, 187 - des champs, 188 - d’oranges, 41 - solsticiales, 194 - - Florentine flasks, 96 - - Flores Aurantii, 41 - Citri, 29 - Loniceræ, 33 - Sambuci, 32 - Syringæ, 36 - - Florida perfume, 175 - - Flowers of the Isle of Wight perfume, 198 - - Fœniculum vulgare, 32 - - Folia Cajuputi, 25 - Laurocerasi, 29 - - Forest-breeze perfume, 197 - - Formulas for handkerchief perfumes, 169 - for pomades and hair oils, 247 - for sachets, 209 - for toilet vinegars, 204 - - Fractional distillation, 143 - - Frangipanni sachet powder, 210 - - Freckle lotion, 275 - milk, 274 - - French flower farms, annual production of, 10 - white, 271 - - Fructus Citri, 28 - - Fruit essences, 82 - ethers, 80, 82 - - Fumigating paper, 218 - pastils, 214 - pencils, 216 - powders, 220 - ribbons, 219 - waters and vinegars, 220 - - Fumigation, perfumes used for, 214 - - Funnel, separating, 89, 98 - - Fusel oils, 71 - - - Garland of flowers perfume, 173 - - Gaultheria procumbens, 55 - - Gaulthérie, 55 - - Gelatin, Chinese, 80 - - Geranium, 32 - essence of, 154 - - Ginger grass, 30 - - Giroflé, 55 - - Glycerin, 82 - cold-cream, 240 - cosmetic use of, 227 - cream, 231 - emulsions, 231 - jelly, 232 - - Golden hair water, 291 - - Grains d’ambrette, 38 - - Green colors, 300 - - Gum wax, 49 - - - Hair cosmetics, 280 - dye, copper, 290 - dye, lead, 286 - dyes and depilatories, 285 - dyes, double, 288 - dyes, silver, 288 - simple, 286 - oils and pomades, 245 - oils, formulas for, 254 - restorer, 283 - tonics, 283 - washes, 281 - - Handkerchief perfumes, formulas for, 169 - perfumes, manufacture of, 167 - - Hedyosmum flowers, 33 - - Heliotrope, 33 - bouquet, 194 - extract of, 154 - hair oil, 255 - perfume, 176 - pomade, 252 - sachet powder, 210 - - Heliotropin, 33 - - Heliotropium peruvianum, 33 - - Hepar sulphuris, 84 - - Herba Majoranæ, 37 - - Hibiscus Abelmoschus, 38 - - History of perfumery, 1 - - Homœopathic chalk tooth powder, 262 - - Honeysuckle, 33 - extract of, 153 - perfume, 176 - - Hovenia perfume, 177 - - Huile à benjamin, 255 - à l’ess-bouquet, 255 - crystallisée, 249 - de jasmin, 255 - de mille fleurs, 188 - de palme, 42 - héliotrope, 255 - philocome, 256 - - Hungarian beard wax, 295 - water, 195 - - Huntsman’s nosegay, 178 - - Hydrogen dioxide, 291 - - Hygienic and cosmetic perfumery, 225 - - Hyraceum, 59 - - Hyssop, 34 - - Hyssopus officinalis, 34 - - - Illicium anisatum, I. religiosum, 48 - - Incense powder, 217 - - Indian sachet powder, 210 - - Inexhaustible salt, 200 - - Infusion, 98 - cold and warm, 147 - - Iris, 42 - florentina, 42 - - Iwarankusa, 54 - - - Jasmine, 34 - emulsion, 232 - extract of, 155 - hair oil, 255 - - Jasminum odoratissimum, 34 - - Jockey club, 178 - - Juniperus virginiana, 27 - - Jonquille, extract of, 157 - perfume, 179 - pomade, 298 - - - Kaloderm, 279 - - Karsi, 286 - - Kiss me quick perfume, 180 - - Kohol, 287 - - - Lait antéphelique, 274 - d’amandes amères, 238 - de concombre, 237 - de lilas, 236 - de pistaches, 238 - de roses, 238 - virginal, 236 - - Lathyrus tuberosus, 50 - - Laurier, 22 - - Laurier-cérise, 29 - - Laurus nobilis, 22 - - Lavande, 34 - - Lavandula vera, 34 - - Lavender, 34 - essence of, 155 - perfumes, 183 - sachet powder, 210 - - Leap-year bouquet, 184 - - Lemon, 35 - essence of, 156 - grass, 30, 35 - grass, essence of, 153 - - Lignum Camphoræ, 25 - Cedri, 27 - Rhodii, 45 - Sassafras, 47 - - Lilac, 36 - extract of, 153 - milk, 236 - perfume, 174 - - Lilas, 36 - - Lilionese, 275 - - Lilium candidum, 36 - - Lily, 36 - extract of, 156 - perfume, 185 - of the valley extract, 185 - of the valley perfume, 172, 185 - - Limon, 35 - - Liquidambar orientalis, L. styraciflua, 49 - - Liquidamber, 49 - - Lip salve, white and red, 243 - salves and cold-creams, 238 - - Lis, 36 - - Liver of sulphur, 84 - - Lonicera Caprifolium, 33 - - Lotion for chapped skin, 276 - - Lotions, face, 274 - - - Macassar oil, 256 - - Mace, 36 - - Maceration, 98 - - Maces, 36 - - Magnolia, 37 - extract of, 156 - grandiflora, 37 - perfume, 185 - - Mallard’s toilet vinegar, 206 - - Marjolaine, 37 - - Marjoram, 37 - - Marrow cream, 251 - - Marshal sachet powder, 210 - - Meadow-sweet, 38 - - Meals and pastes, 233 - - Melaleuca Cajuputi, 25 - - Melanogène, 289 - - Melissa officinalis, 22 - - Mentha aquatica, M. crispa, M. piperita, M. viridis, 38 - - Menthe crépue, poivrée, verde, 38 - - Mignonette, 45 - - Milk, vegetable, 235 - - Mille fleurs sachet powder, 211 - - Mint, 38 - - Moschus, 59 - - Moss-rose, extract of, 161 - perfume, 193 - - Mousseline perfume, 188 - - Mouth, preparations for the care of, 257 - washes, 265 - - Murexide paint, 274 - - Muscade, 40 - - Musk, 59 - paste, 279 - perfume, 188 - tincture of, 156 - - Musk-seed, 38 - tincture of, 152 - - Muslin sachet powder, 211 - - Myrcia acris, 22 - - Myristica, 40 - - Myristica fragrans, 36 - - Myrrh, 39 - tooth tincture, 267 - - Myrrha, 39 - - Myrtle, extract of, 157 - leaves, 39 - perfume, 189 - - Myrtus communis, 39 - - - Nail powder, 244 - - Narcissus, 40 - extract of, 157 - Jonquilla, 40 - perfume, 189 - poeticus, 40 - - Nardostachys Jatamansi, 48 - - Navy’s nosegay, 189 - - Neroli, extract of, 158 - - New-mown hay, 177, 189 - - Nitrobenzol, 83 - - Nitrous ether, 81 - - Nosegay perfume, 172 - - Nutmeg, 40 - butter, 129 - - - Odors, extraction of, 87 - from pomades, abstraction of, 102 - from the vegetable kingdom, 13 - - Œillet, 44 - - Œnanthic ether, 71 - - Oil, benzoated, 255 - crystallized, 249 - macassar, 256 - of allspice, 132 - of anise, 119 - of bergamot, 119 - of bitter almonds, 74, 120 - of bitter almonds, artificial, 83 - of burdock root, 256 - of cajuput, 120 - of calamus, 120 - of caraway, 125 - of cascarilla, 121 - of cassia, 121, 137 - of cassie, 119 - of cedar, 121 - of chamomile, 120 - of cherry-laurel, 125 - of cinnamon, 137 - of citron, 122 - of citronella, 122 - of clove, 130 - of coriander, 123 - of crispmint, 129 - of culilaban, 125 - of elder, 124 - of geranium, 123 - of heliotrope, 124 - of hyssop, 137 - of jasmine, 224 - of laurel, 127 - of lavender, 125 - of lemon, 122, 127 - of lemon-grass, 122 - of lilac, 123 - of lily, 126 - of mace, 129 - of magnolia, 127 - of marjoram, 127 - of meadowsweet, 135 - of melissa, 128 - of mignonette, 133 - of mirbane, 83 - of myrtle, 130 - of narcissus, 130 - of néroli bigarade, 131 - of néroli pétale, 131 - of nutmeg, 129 - of orange, 131 - of orange bigarade, 131 - of orange flowers, 130 - of patchouly, 132 - of peppermint, 129 - of petit grain, 131 - of pink, 130 - of Portugal, 131 - of reseda, 133 - of rhodium, 134 - of rose, 133 - of rosemary, 134 - of rue, 133 - of sage, 134 - of sandal wood, 134 - of santal, 134 - of sassafras, 135 - of spearmint, 129 - of star-anise, 135 - of sweet bay, 127 - of sweet pea, 132 - of Swiss herbs, 255 - of syringa, 132 - of thyme, 135 - of turpentine, 138 - of vanilla, 136 - of verbena, 136 - of vetiver, 136 - of violet, 136 - of wallflower, 126 - of wintergreen, 136 - of ylang-ylang, 137 - palm, 299 - - Oils, essential, adulterations of, and their recognition, 139 - essential, see also Essential oils - fusel, 71 - of mint, 128 - purification of, 79 - - Oléolisse, 297 - - Oleum Amygdalæ amaræ, 74, 120 - Anisi Stellati, 135 - Cajuputi, 120 - Calami, 120 - Cari, 125 - Caryophylli, 130 - Cassiæ, 121, 137 - Chamomillæ, 120 - Cinnamomi, 137 - Citri, 122 - Coriandri, 123 - Culilavani, 125 - Gaultheriæ, 136 - Hyssopi, 137 - Illicii, 135 - Ivaranchusæ, 136 - Lauri, 127 - Lavandulæ, 125 - Limonis, 122, 127 - Macidis, 129 - Majoranæ, 127 - Menthæ crispæ, 129 - Menthæ piperitæ, 129 - Myristicæ, 129 - Naphæ, 130 - Neroli, 130 - Palmæ, 42 - Rosmarini, 134 - Rutæ, 133 - Salviæ, 134 - Sambuci, 124 - Santali, 134 - Sassafras, 135 - Spirææ, 135 - Terebinthinæ, 138 - Thymi, 135 - Unonæ odoratissimæ, 137 - - Olibanum, 40 - tincture of, 135 - - Olivine, 233 - - Olla podrida sachet powder, 211 - - Opopanax, 41 - - Orange flower, extract of, 158 - flower pomade, 252 - flowers, 41 - peel, 41 - - Origanum, 42 - Majorana (vulgare), 37 - - Orris root, 42 - root, tincture of, 163 - - Otto of rose, 133 - - Oxidation of essential oils, 18 - - Oxide of tin, 86 - - - Palm oil, 42, 299 - - Paper, fumigating, 218 - - Paraffin, 83 - - Paste, Spanish, 224 - - Pastes and meals, 233 - - Pastilles du sérail, 216 - enbaumées, 217 - odoriférantes, 217 - orientales, 215, 264 - - Pastils, fumigating, 214 - - Patchouly, 43 - essence of, 158 - perfume, 191 - powder, 212 - - Pâte camphorique, 240 - d’amandes au miel, 234 - d’amandes simple, 233 - dentifrice, 261 - - Pear ether, 81 - - Pearl white, 86, 271, 278 - - Peau d’Espagne, 222 - - Pelargonium roseum, 32 - - Pencils, fumigating, 216 - - Peppermint, 38 - essence of, 156 - - Perfumery, cosmetic, 269 - division of, 166 - history of, 1 - hygienic and cosmetic, 225 - - Perfumes, acid, 202 - ammoniacal, 199 - dry, 207 - used for fumigation, 214 - - Permanganate of potassium, 76, 267, 287 - - Peroxide of hydrogen, 291 - - Persian sachet powder, 212 - - Peru balsam, 43 - balsam, tincture of, 159 - hair oil, 256 - - Petroleum ether, 65 - - Philadelphus coronarius, 34, 51 - - Philocome hair oil, 256 - pomade, 254 - - Pimenta, 21 - - Pimpinella Anisum, 21 - - Pine-apple, 44 - ether, 81 - - Pine-needle odor, 197 - - Pink, 44 - - - Pink, extract of, 158 - perfume, 190 - - Piperonal, 33 - - Pistachio meal, 235 - milk, 238 - - Place of growth of plants, influence on their odor, 11 - - Plumeria, 44 - - Pogostemon Patchouly, 43 - - Pois de senteur, 50 - - Polianthus tuberosa, 53 - - Polyanthus perfume, 190 - - Pomade à fleurs, 250 - à fleurs d’oranges, 252 - à graisse d’ours, 250 - à la rose pour les lèvres, 243 - à moëlle de bœuf, 251 - à quinquine, 251 - blanche pour les lèvres, 243 - cerise, 243 - de héliotrope, 252 - des violettes, 253 - divine, 241 - philocome, 254 - - Pomades and hair oils, 245 - formulas for, 247 - - Pomatum, stick, 294 - - Portugal oil, 257 - sachet powder, 212 - - Potassii sulphuretum, 84 - permanganas, 76 - - Potassium permanganate hair dye, 287 - permanganate water, 267 - sulphide of, 84 - - Potpourri sachet powder, 212 - - Poudre à la rose, 277 - à la violette, 278 - blanche surfine, 278 - de la reine, 221 - d’encens, 217 - de pistaches, 277 - de riz, 278 - impériale, 221 - pour les ongles, 244 - royale, 221 - - Poudres encensoires, 220 - - Powder, incense, 217 - - Powders, toilet, 276 - - Preparations for the care of the mouth, 257 - - Pressure, 88 - - Preston salt, 202 - - Prunus laurocerasus, 29 - - Pterocarpus santalinus, 47 - - Pulchérine, 276 - - Pumice stone objectionable as a tooth powder, 258 - - Pyrogallic acid, 84 - - - Queen Victoria’s perfume, 190 - - Quinine tooth powder, 262 - - - Racine de glaïeule, 50 - - Radix Calami, 50 - Iridis florentinæ, 42 - Sumbul, 49 - - Rancidity of fats, prevention of, 79 - - Red colors, 299 - - Reine des prés, 38 - - Reseda, 45 - essence of, 191 - extract of, 159 - odorata, 45 - - Resina Opopanax, 41 - - Resinification, 18 - - Rhatany, 300 - - Rhodium, 45 - - Rhusma, 294 - - Ribbons, fumigating, 219 - - Ribes niger, 27 - - Robinia pseudoacacia, 27 - - Romarin, 46 - - Rondeletia odoratissima perfume, 191 - - Rosa, 45 - centifolia perfume, 192 - - Rose, 45 - essence or extract of, 159, 161 - milk, 238 - mousseuse perfume, 193 - odors, 192 - sachet powder, 213 - théa perfume, 193 - tooth powder, 264 - water, 160 - - Rosebud cold-cream, 244 - - Rosemary, 46 - - Roses blanches perfume, 193 - jaunes perfume, 192 - jumelles perfume, 193 - - Rosmarinus officinalis, 46 - - Rouge alloxane, 274 - en feuilles, 272 - en pâte, 273 - en tasses, 273 - végétal rose liquide, 272 - - Rouges, 272 - - Royal Horse-Guard’s bouquet, 177 - nosegay, 192 - - Rue, 46 - - Ruta graveolens, 46 - - - Sachets, formulas for, 209 - - Saffron, 298 - - Safrol, 47 - - Sage, 46 - - Salicylated tooth tincture, 268 - - Salicylic acid, preservation of fats by, 79 - - Salt, inexhaustible, 200 - smelling, white, 201 - Preston, 202 - - Salvia officinalis, 46 - - Sambucus canadensis, 32 - niger, 32 - - Santal, extract of, 162 - sachet powder, 213 - wood, 47 - - Santalum album, 47 - - Sassafras, S. officinalis, 47 - - Sauge, 46 - - Savon dentifrice, 260 - - Savonettes camphoriques, 241 - d’amandes, 244 - - Scent bags, 207 - - Schnuda, 274 - - Schoenanthe, 35 - - Seiffert’s extraction apparatus, 105 - - Sel blanc parfumé, 201 - inépuisable, 200 - volatil, 202 - - Semen Abelmoschi, 38 - Anethi, 31 - Anisi stellati, 48 - Carvi, 25 - - Separating funnel, 89, 98 - - Separators, 96 - - Seringat, 51 - - Skin, chapped, lotion for, 275 - cosmetics and face lotions, 270 - cosmetics, red, 272 - cosmetics, white, 271 - gloss, 278 - - Smelling salt, white, 201 - - Sodii boras, 75 - - Soumboul, 49 - - Spanish paste, 224 - skin, 222 - - Spearmint, 38 - - Spermaceti, 85 - - Spiced vinegar, 204 - - Spic-nard, 48 - - Spike-lavender, 35 - - Spikenard, 48 - - Spiræa ulmaria, 38 - - Sponges, bleaching of, 302 - - Spring kisses, 170 - nosegay perfume, 194 - - Starch, 84 - - Star-anise, 48 - - Steam still, 110 - - Stick pomatum, 294 - - Stills, 92 et seq. - - Storax, 49 - tincture of, 162 - - Styrax Benzoin, 23 - - Suave perfume, 194 - - Subnitrate of bismuth, 86 - - Sugar tooth powder, 264 - - Sulphide of potassium, 84 - - Sumbul root, 49 - - Sureau, 32 - - Sweet almonds, 50 - - Sweet-brier, extract of, 161 - - Sweet-flag root, 50 - - Sweet gum, 49 - - Sweet-pea, 50 - essence of, 196 - extract of, 159 - - Syringa, 51 - perfume, 195 - vulgaris, 36 - - - Table showing the approximate density, boiling and congealing points - of essential oils, 141 - - Tables, percentage, of alcohol, 70 - - Tannin hair dye, 289 - - Tanno-quinine hair restorer, 283 - pomade, 252 - - Tea-rose, extract of, 162 - perfume, 193 - - Teint de Venus, 276 - - Teinture chinoise, 287 - orientale, 286 - - Terpineol, 36 - - Thyme, 51 - - Thymus Serpyllum, T. vulgaris, 51 - - Tin, oxide of, 86 - - Tincture, definition of, 150 - - Toilet powder, pink, 277 - powder, white, 277 - powders, 276 - utensils, 301 - vinegar, Mallard’s, 206 - vinegars, 204 - - Tolu balsam, 51 - tincture of, 162 - - Toluifera Balsamum, 51 - Pereiræ, 43 - - Tonka beans, 52 - cream, 253 - oil, 257 - tincture of, 163 - - Tooth pastes, 260 - powders, 262 - soap, 260 - tinctures, 265 - - Transparent pomade, 252 - - Tuberose, 53 - emulsion, 232 - extract of, 163 - - Tulipe odoriférante perfume, 195 - - Tumeric, 298 - - Twin-rose perfume, 193 - - Twin-roses, extract of, 162 - - - Unona odoratissima, 56 - - Utensils used in the toilet, 301 - - - Vanilla, 53 - aromatica, V. planifolia, 53 - camphor, 136 - cream, 253 - oil, 257 - pomade, 253 - tincture of, 163 - - Vanillin, 85, 136 - - Vaselin, 85 - - Vegetable aromatic substances, chemical constitution of, 15 - kingdom, odors from, 13 - milk, 235 - - Venetian chalk, 271 - - Verbena, 54 - extract of, 163 - - Verbena perfume, 196 - sachet powder, 214 - triphylla, 54 - - Verveine, 54 - - Vetiver, 30, 54 - essence of, 165 - sachet powder, 214 - - Vinaigre à la rose, 204 - aux épices, 204 - aux fleurs d’oranges, 205 - aux violettes, 205 - de cologne, 205 - de lavande, 206 - de quatre voleurs, 205 - étheré, 206 - hygiénique, 205 - polyanthe, 207 - - Vinaigres encensoires, 220 - - Vinegar, aromatic, 203 - Mallard’s toilet, 206 - orange-flower, 206 - preventive, 205 - spiced, 204 - toilet, French, 207 - - Vinegars, toilet, 204 - - Viola odorata, 54 - - Violet, 54 - cold-cream, 244 - color, 301 - emulsion, 232 - extract of, 163 - perfume, 195 - pomade, 253 - sachet powder, 213, 214 - - Violettes des montagnes, 197 - - Violettes (perfume), 195 - - Virginal milk, 236 - - Vohl’s extraction apparatus, 110 - - Volcameria, 55 - extract of, 164 - inermis, 55 - perfume, 197 - - - Wallflower, 55 - extract of, 155 - perfume, 184 - - Waters, aromatic, 113, 167 - - Wax, 85 - pomades, 294 - - West End perfume, 197 - - Whisker dye, 292 - - White, French, 271 - pearl, dry, 278 - rose, extract of, 162 - rose perfume, 193 - - Wintergreen, 55 - extract of, 165 - perfume, 198 - - - Yacht club perfume, 198 - - Yellow colors, 298 - - Yield of essential oils, 113 - - Ylang-ylang, 56 - perfume, 198 - - * * * * * - -Transcriber's Notes - -Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. 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