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diff --git a/old/55718-8.txt b/old/55718-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 2aba7a4..0000000 --- a/old/55718-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9616 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Land of Enchantment: From Pike's Peak -to the Pacific, by Lilian Whiting - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: The Land of Enchantment: From Pike's Peak to the Pacific - -Author: Lilian Whiting - -Release Date: October 9, 2017 [EBook #55718] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAND OF ENCHANTMENT: *** - - - - -Produced by Donald Cummings, David E. Brown, Bryan Ness -and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images -generously made available by The Internet Archive/American -Libraries.) - - - - - - - - - -THE LAND OF ENCHANTMENT - - -[Illustration: PICTURESQUE BRIGHT ANGEL TRAIL, GRAND CAŅON, ARIZONA] - - - - - THE LAND OF - ENCHANTMENT - - From Pike's Peak to the Pacific - - By LILIAN WHITING - - Author of "The World Beautiful," "The Florence of - Landor," "Boston Days," etc. - - - "_The Fairest enchants me; - The Mighty commands me._" - - - WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS - - - BOSTON - LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY - 1909 - - - - - _Copyright, 1906_, - By LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY. - - - _All rights reserved._ - - - Printers - S. J. PARKHILL & CO., BOSTON, U. S. A. - - - - - TO - THE UNFADING MEMORY - OF - MAJOR JOHN WESLEY POWELL - THE GREAT EXPLORER - -Whose name is inseparably linked for all time with the "Titan of -Chasms," the entire length of which he penetrated, revealing its weird -and mysterious grandeur; whose fidelity to scientific survey has -signally advanced the progress of our country; whose wise foresight in -advocating water supplies for arid lands, whose heroism amid hardships -and whose persistence of energy and noble purpose forever endear his -name to every American and to all who revere the loftiest achievements -of science, - - These pages are inscribed by - - LILIAN WHITING. - - - - - "_The sun set, but not his hope; - Stars rose; his faith was earlier up._" - - - - - "_What's life to me? - Where'er I look is fire, where'er I listen - Music; and where I tend bliss evermore._" - - BROWNING. - - - - -AUTHOR'S NOTE - - -It is a special pleasure to the author to gratefully present her -acknowledgments to Mr. W. H. Simpson, of the Santa Fé; Mr. S. K. -Hooper, of the Denver and Rio Grande; Mr. David Cameron Mac Watters, of -the Short Line, and Mr. Croycroft, the artist of Santa Fé, New Mexico, -for their kind courtesies in facilitating the choice of subjects for -illustration and for their sympathetic encouragement in the effort to -interpret something of the sublimity and the loveliness of this land of -enchantment between Pike's Peak and the Pacific. - -THE BRUNSWICK - - BOSTON, October, 1906 - - - - -CONTENTS - - -CHAPTER PAGE - - I. WITH WESTERN STARS AND SUNSETS 3 - - II. DENVER THE BEAUTIFUL 15 - - III. THE PICTURESQUE REGION OF PIKE'S PEAK 51 - - IV. SUMMER WANDERINGS IN COLORADO 94 - - V. THE COLORADO PIONEERS 157 - - VI. THE SURPRISES OF NEW MEXICO 182 - - VII. THE STORY OF SANTA FÉ 207 - - VIII. MAGIC AND MYSTERY OF ARIZONA 228 - - IX. THE PETRIFIED FOREST AND THE METEORITE MOUNTAIN 270 - - X. LOS ANGELES, THE SPELL-BINDER 298 - - XI. GRAND CAŅON; THE CARNIVAL OF THE GODS 311 - - INDEX 339 - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS - - - Picturesque Bright Angel Trail, Grand Caņon, Arizona _Frontispiece_ - - PAGE - - Acoma, New Mexico. Two Miles Distant 13 - - Summit of Pike's Peak, Colorado 55 - - Williams Caņon, near Manitou, Colorado 64 - - Seven Falls, Cheyenne Caņon, near Colorado Springs, Colorado 66 - - St. Peter's Dome, on the Cripple Creek Short Line 71 - - Approaching Duffield 72 - - Portland and Independence Mines, Victor, Colorado 75 - - View from Bull Hill, Richest Gulch in the World 76 - - The Devil's Slide, Cripple Creek Short Line 80 - - Colorado Springs and Tunnel No. 6, Cripple Creek Short Line 83 - - Gateway of the Garden of the Gods, Colorado Springs, Colorado 92 - - Cathedral Spires, Garden of the Gods, Colorado Springs, Colorado 92 - - The Walls of the Caņon, Grand River 99 - - The "Fairy Caves," Colorado 101 - - Marshall Pass and Mt. Ouray, Colorado 103 - - The Wonderful Hanging Lake, near Glenwood Springs, Colorado 112 - - Cathedral Rocks, Clyde Park, Cripple Creek Short Line 137 - - Sultan Mountain 150 - - Acoma, New Mexico 183 - - The Enchanted Mesa, New Mexico 184 - - Laguna, New Mexico 186 - - Cliff Dweller Ruins, near Santa Fé, New Mexico 191 - - Stone Tent. Cliff Dwellers, New Mexico 191 - - San Miguel Church, Santa Fé, New Mexico 211 - - "Watch Tower." Cliff Dwellers, New Mexico 215 - - Cliff Dwellers. Within Twenty-five Miles of Santa Fé, - New Mexico 215 - - Petrified Giants, Third Forest, Arizona 228 - - Collection of Cacti made by Officers at Fort McDowell, Arizona, - for this Picture 232 - - Looking through a Part of the River Gorge, Foot of Bad Trail, - Grand Caņon 240 - - Suwara (Giant Cactus), Salt River Valley, Arizona 267 - - San Francisco Peak, near Flagstaff, Arizona 276 - - Grand Caņon, from Grand View Point 316 - - Zigzag, Bright Angel Trail, Grand Caņon 318 - - A Cliff on Bright Angel Trail, Grand Caņon 320 - - - - -THE LAND OF ENCHANTMENT - - - - -THE LAND OF ENCHANTMENT - - - - -CHAPTER I - -WITH WESTERN STARS AND SUNSETS - - "_The sun, the moon, the stars, the seas, the hills, and the plains-- - Are not these, O Soul, the Vision of Him who reigns?_" - - TENNYSON - - "_It may be that the gulfs will wash us down._" - - TENNYSON - - "_My father's kingdom is so large that people perish with cold at one - extremity whilst they are suffocated with heat at the other._" - - CYRUS TO XENOPHON - - -The good American of the Twentieth century by no means defers going to -Paris until he dies, but anticipates the joys of Paradise by making a -familiarity with the French capital one of the consolations that tend -to the alleviation of his enforced terrestrial sojourn. All Europe, -indeed, has become the pleasure-ground of American tourists, a large -proportion of whom fail to realize that in our own country there are -enchanted regions in which the traveller feels that he has been caught -up in the starry immensities and heard the words not lawful for man to -utter. Within the limits of Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, and Southern -California there are four centres of sublime and unparalleled scenic -sublimity which stand alone and unrivalled in the world. Neither the -Alps nor the Himalayas can offer any parallel to the phenomena of the -mountain and desert systems of the Southwest as wrought by the march -of ages, presenting unique and incomparable problems of scientific -interest that defy solution, and which are inviting the constant study -and increasing research of many among the most eminent specialists of -the day in geology and metallurgy. The Pike's Peak region offers to -the traveller not only the ascent of the stupendous Peak, but also the -"Short Line" trip between Colorado Springs and Cripple Creek, which -affords forty-five miles of marvellous mountain and caņon effects. -The engineering problem of the ascent of St. Peter's Dome,--a huge -mass of granite towering eleven thousand feet into the air, around -which the steel track winds in terraces, glory after glory of view -repeating itself from the ascending vistas as the train climbs the -dizzy height,--the engineering problem that is here at once presented -and solved, has attracted scientific attention all over the world as -the most extraordinary achievement in mountain transportation. The -Grand Caņon of the Colorado in Arizona, two days' journey from the -Pike's Peak region, the Petrified Forests that lie also in Arizona, -seventy-five miles beyond the border of New Mexico, and that Buried -Star near Caņon Diablo, make up a group that travellers and scientists -are beginning ardently to appreciate. Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, -and Southern California offer, all in all, a landscape panorama that -for grandeur, charm of climate, and rich and varied resources is -unrivalled. Imagination falters before the resources of this region and -the inducements it offers as a locality in which to live surrounded -by perpetual beauty. The air is all exhilaration; the deep blue skies -are a miracle of color by day, and a miracle of shining firmament by -night; the land offers its richly varied returns in agriculture, fruit, -mining, or grazing, according to the specific locality; the inhabitants -represent the best quality of American life; the opportunities and -advantages already offered and constantly increasing are greater than -would at first be considered possible. This entire Southwest can only -be accurately defined as the Land of Enchantment. - - "Yet all experience is an arch wherethro' - Gleams that untravell'd world," - -exclaims Tennyson's Ulysses, and the wanderer under Western stars that -hang, like blazing clusters of radiant light, midway in the air, cannot -but feel that all these new experiences open to him vistas of untold -significance and undreamed-of inspiration. - - "It may be we shall touch the Happy Isles," - -is the haunting refrain of his thoughts when, through the luminous -air, he gazes into the golden glory of sunsets whose splendor is -forever impressed on his memory. Every hour of the journey through -the Southwest is an hour of enchantment in the intense interest of the -scenes. One must not miss the outlook when descending the steep grade -down Raton Mountain; nor must he fail to be on the alert in passing -through the strange old pueblos of Isleta and Acoma; he must not miss -Caņon Diablo when crossing that wonderful chasm on the wonderful -bridge, nor the gleam of the Lowell Observatory at Flagstaff on its -pine-clad hill-slope, nor fail to gaze on the purple Franciscan peaks -on which the lingering sunset rays recall to him the poet's line,-- - - "Day in splendid purple dying." - -Like a modern Telemachus he sees "the baths of all the western stars." - -Between La Junta in Colorado and Los Angeles in California there lies -a journey which, in connection with its side trips, is unequalled, -because there is only one Grand Caņon, one Pike's Peak with its -adjacent wonderland, and because, as a rule, elsewhere in the United -States--or in the world, for that matter,--forests do not turn into -stone nor stars hurl themselves into the earth with a force that buries -them too deep for resurrection. Through the East and the Middle West -the mountains do not, on general principles, attempt any competition -with the clouds, but content themselves with the gentle altitude of -a mile or so; the stars stay decorously in the firmament and are not -shooting madly about, trying fantastic Jules Verne experiments to -determine whether or not they can shine better from the centre of the -earth than from their natural place in the upper air; the stars of the -Eastern skies "stand pat," so to speak, and are not flying in the face -of the universe; so that, altogether, in these regions it would seem -quite evident that - - "The world is built in order, - And the atoms march in tune." - -These exceptional variations to the established order, however,--these -wonderful peaks and caņons and forests and gardens of gods,--all these -enchanted things lie, naturally, within the Land of Enchantment, within -this vast territorial expanse replete with many other attractions. From -La Junta let the traveller journey into Colorado with its splendor of -resources, and in gazing upon the stately, solemn impressiveness of the -Snowy Range he cannot but feel that Nature has predestined Colorado for -the theatre of noble life and realize the influence as all-pervading. -Infinite possibilities open before one as an alluring vista, and he -hears the refrain,-- - - "My spirit beats her mortal bars - As down dark tides the glory slides - And star-like mingles with the stars." - -With the excursions offered,--grand panoramas of mountain views where -the tourist from his lofty perch in the observation-car looks down -on clouds and on peaks and pinnacles far below the heights to which -his train climbs,--with the cogwheel road ascending Pike's Peak, -the fascinating drives through Cheyenne Caņon, the Garden of the -Gods, Ute Pass, and around Glen Eyrie, and with the luxurious ease of -life at "The Antlers," the traveller finds fairly a new world, rich -in suggestion and wide outlook. This attractive region is, however, -only one of the central points of interest in Colorado. Denver, the -brilliant and fascinating capital; Pueblo, the metropolis of Southern -Colorado; Glenwood Springs, the romantic and fashionable watering place -and summer resort high up in the mountains on the beautiful "scenic -route" of the Denver and Rio Grande; Boulder, the picturesque mountain -town, with its State University so ably conducted; Greeley, the town of -the "Union Colony," whose romantic and tragic story is a part of the -great history of the Centennial State, and where an admirable normal -school draws students from all over the country, even including New -England,--these and a wealth of other features offer interest that is -coming to engage the attention of the civilized world. - -New Mexico has been more or less considered as one of the impossible -and uncivilized localities, or has failed to establish any claim to -being considered at all; yet here is a territory whose climate is -simply delightful by virtue of its altitude,--cool in summer and mild -and sunny in winter,--whose mines of amethysts and other precious -stones suggest developments yet undreamed-of; whose ethnological -interest, in the marvellous remains of Cliff-dwellers and of a people -far antedating any authentic records, enchains the scientist; a -territory whose future promises almost infinitely varied riches in many -directions of its development. - -Arizona is simply a treasure land. If it offered only that enthralling -feature, the Grand Caņon, it would be a central point of pilgrimage for -the entire civilized world; but even aside from this,--the sublimest -vision ever offered to human eye,--even aside from the Grand Caņon, -which dominates the world as the most sublime spectacle,--Arizona -offers the fascinations of the Painted Desert, the Tonto Basin, the -uncanny buttes that loom up in grotesque shapes on the horizon, the -dreamy lines of mountain ranges, the strange pueblos, the productive -localities where grains and where fruits and flowers grow with tropical -luxuriance, the Petrified Forests, and the exquisite coloring of sky -and atmosphere. - -Southern California, with its brilliantly fascinating metropolis, Los -Angeles; the neighboring city of Pasadena, the "Crown of the Valley"; -with an extensive electric trolley-car connection with towns within a -radius of fifty miles, and other distinctive and delightful features, -almost each one of which might well furnish a separate chapter of -description; with mountain trips made easy and enjoyable by the swift -electric lines,--all this region fascinates the imagination and -indicates new and wonderful vistas of life in the immediate future. The -vast and varied resources of the great Southwest will also, as they are -developed, increasingly affect the economic aspects of the country. - -To the traveller one fact stands out in especial prominence, and that -is that the traditional primitive conditions in this region hardly -continue to exist. The picturesque aspects of nature form the stage -setting to very-much-up-to-date life. The opportunities and advantages -already offered and constantly increasing are greater than would at -first be considered possible. In isolated homes on the desert the -children of the family will be found studying the higher mathematics, -taking music lessons, or receiving lessons in languages (classic, -or the romance languages) from some one in the neighborhood who is -able to give such instruction. If any traveller expects to encounter -the traditional "cow-boy" aspects of life, he will be very much -disappointed. There is no refinement of life in the East that is not -mirrored and duplicated in the West. There are no aspirations, no -ideals, no fine culture in the East that have not their corresponding -aspects in the great West. In fact, in many ways the West begins where -the East leaves off. For instance, the new towns of the West that have -sprung up within the past twenty years have never known what it was to -have gas or horse-cars. They begin with electric lights and electric -transit. Their schoolhouses are built with up-to-date methods, and -the houses, however modest, are constructed with a taste and a beauty -unknown in the rural regions of the East. The square white house with -green blinds and a straight stone-paved pathway to the front gate, -so common in New England, is not seen in the West. Instead, the most -modest little structure has its piazza, its projecting bay window -thrown out, its balcony--something, at all events, tasteful and -beautiful to the eye. - -The journey from La Junta (in Colorado) to Los Angeles offers a -series of enthralling pictorial effects that are invested with -all the refinements of civilized life delightfully devoid of its -commonplaceness. These long transcontinental trains with two engines, -one at the front and one at the rear, with their different grades -of the Pullman, the tourist, and the emigrant car service, are as -distinctive a feature of the twentieth century as the "prairie -schooners" were of the early half of the nineteenth century. The real -journey begins, of course, at Chicago, and as these trains leave in -the evening the traveller fares forth in the seclusion of his berth -in the Pullman. The nights on a sleeping-car may be a very trance of -ecstasy to one who loves to watch the panorama of the skies. Raise the -curtain, pile up the pillows to the angle that one can gaze without -lifting the head, and what ethereal visions one is wafted through! One -has a sense of flying in the air among the starry spaces, especially -if he chances to have the happy fortune of a couch on the side where -the moon is shining down,--a midsummer moon, with stars, and filmy, -flitting clouds,--when the panorama of the air becomes the enchantment -of a dream. - -It is, literally, "such stuff as dreams are made of," and when one -drops off into slumber, he utilizes it for his fancies of the night. -Miss Harriet Hosmer, the famous sculptor, once related a story of a -night journey she took with a party of congenial spirits on horseback -between Rome and Florence. By way of "a lark" they rested by day and -rode by night, and the beauty of the effects of light and shade sank -into her mind so that she drew on them thirty years or more later for -the wonderful designs in her great "Gates," which even rival those of -Ghiberti. "The night hath counsel" and suggestion of artistic beauty -as well, and the effects that one may get from a flying train are -impossible to obtain under any other condition. After all, is it not a -part of the fine art of living to take the enjoyment of the moment as -it comes, in whatever guise, without lamenting that it is not something -else? - -These splendidly equipped trains of the Santa Fé service admit very -little dust; the swift motion keeps up a constant breeze, and some -necromancy of perpetual vigilance surrounds the traveller with -exceptional cleanliness and personal comfort. One experiences a certain -sense of detachment from ordinary day and daylight duties that is -exhilarating. - -[Illustration: ACOMA. TWO MILES DISTANT] - -Kansas City, the gateway to the great Southwest, might well claim -attention as an important manufacturing and distributing centre; Kansas -itself, once the bed of an inland sea, is not without scientific -interest for the deposits of gypsum and salt that have left the -soil so fertile, as well as for strange fossils revealing gigantic -animals, both land and aquatic, that have lived there,--the mastodon, -rhinoceros, elephant, the crocodile and shark,--many of whose skeletons -are preserved in the National Museum in Washington. The prosperous -inland cities with their schools and colleges, their beautiful homes -and constant traffic,--all these features of Kansas, the state of -heroic history, are deeply impressive. But it is Colorado, New Mexico, -Arizona, with which these pages are chiefly concerned, and the -especially picturesque aspects of the journey begin with La Junta. - -Entering Colorado, the plateau is four thousand feet above sea level, -and constantly rising. This altitude renders the climate of New Mexico -particularly invigorating and delightful. - -The most romantic and poetically enchanting regions of the United -States are entered into on this journey, in which easy detours allow -one to visit that mysterious "City in the Sky," the pueblo of Acoma, -near Albuquerque in New Mexico; to make excursions to Montezuma's Well; -to the mysterious ruin of Casa Grande; to the Twin Lakes (which lie on -a mountain crest); and to study other marvels of nature in Arizona. The -splendors of Colorado, with the myriad mountain peaks and silver lakes, -the mysterious caņons and deep gorges, the rose-flushed valleys lying -fair under a sapphire sky in the luminous golden atmosphere, and the -profound interest inspired in the general social tone of life in its -educational, economic, and religious aspects, invest a summer-day tour -through the Land of Enchantment with all the glory and the freshness of -a dream. - - - - -CHAPTER II - -DENVER THE BEAUTIFUL - - "_I will make me a city of gliding and wide-wayed silence, - With a highway of glass and of gold; - With life of a colored peace, and a lucid leisure, - Of smooth electrical ease, - Of sweet excursion of noiseless and brilliant travel, - With room in your streets for the soul._" - - STEPHEN PHILLIPS - - -Denver the Beautiful is the dynamo of Western civilization, and the -keynote to the entire scale of life in Colorado. The atmosphere seems -charged with high destiny. "I worship with wonder the great Fortune," -said Emerson, using the term in the universal sense, "and find it -none too large for use. My receptivity matches its greatness." The -receptivity of the dwellers in this splendid environment seems to match -its greatness, and expand with the increase of its vast resources. As -Paris is France, so Denver is Colorado. Hardly any other commonwealth -and its capital are in such close relation, unless it be that of -Massachusetts and Boston. Colorado is a second Italy, rather than -Switzerland, as it has been called. Over it bends the Italian sky; its -luminous atmosphere is that of Dante's country; at night the stars hang -low as they hang over the heights of San Miniato in fair Florence; -the mountain coloring, when one has distance enough, has the soft -melting purple and amethyst lights of the Apennines, and the courtesy -of the people is not less marked than in the land of the olive and the -myrtle. Then, too, the light--the resplendent and luminous effect of -the atmosphere--is like that of no other state. The East is dark by -comparison with this transparency of golden light. - -As the metropolis of the great West between Chicago and the Pacific -Coast, Denver has a continual procession of visitors from all -countries, who pause in the overland journey to study the outlook of -the most wonderful state in the Union,--that of the richest and most -varied resources. To find within the limits of one state resources -that include gold, silver, copper, lead, zinc, coal, and tin mines; -agriculture, horticulture, stock raising, manufactures, and oil wells, -sounds like a fiction; yet this is literally true. Add to these some of -the most beautiful and sublime scenery in the world, the best modern -appliances, and the most intelligent and finely aspiring class of -people, and one has an outline of the possibilities of the Centennial -State. - -Denver is, geographically, the central city of the country, equally -accessible from both the Atlantic and the Pacific coasts, from the -North and the South. It has the finest climate of the continent; its -winters are all sunshine and exhilaration, with few cloudy or stormy -days; its summers are those in which oppressive heat is hardly known, -and the nights are invariably cool. It is a great railroad centre; it -has infinite space in which to extend itself in any direction; it has -unsurpassed beauty of location. No city west of Chicago concentrates so -many desirable features, for all this wealth of resource and loveliness -of scenic setting is the theatre of noble energy and high achievement. -Denver is only twenty-six hours from Chicago; it is but forty-five -hours from New York. Although apparently a city of the plains, it is -a mile above sea level, and is surrounded with more than two hundred -miles of mountain ranges, whose changeful color, in royal purple, deep -rose, amber, pale blue, gleams through the transparent air against the -horizon. The business and hotel part of Denver lies on a lower level, -while the Capitol, a superb building of Colorado marble, and all the -best residential region, is on a higher plateau. The Capitol has the -novel decoration of an electric flag, so arranged that through colored -glass of red, white, and blue the intense light shines. - -The Denver residential region is something unusual within general -municipal possibilities, as it has unbounded territory over which to -expand, thus permitting each home to have its own grounds, nearly all -of which are spacious; and these, with the broad streets lined with -trees, give to this part of the city the appearance of an enormous -park. For miles these avenues and streets extend, all traversed by -swift electric cars that so annihilate time and space that a man may -live five, ten, or a dozen miles from his place of business and call -it all joy. He insures himself pure air, beautiful views, and an -abundance of ground. If the family desires to go into the city for -evening lectures, concerts, or the theatre, the transit is swift and -enjoyable. They control every convenience. These individual villas are -all fire-proof. The municipal law requires the buildings to be of brick -or stone, thus making Denver a practically fireproof city. Both the -business blocks and the homes share the benefit of the improved modern -taste in architecture. The city of Denver covers an area of eighty-nine -square miles, and these limits are soon to be extended. - -The Capitol has an enchanting mountain view; it also contains a fine -museum of historic relics found in Colorado from cliff-dwellings and -other points. A million dollars has been offered--and refused--for -this state collection. The City Park, covering nearly four hundred -acres, with its two lakes, its beds of flowers and groups of shrubbery; -its casino, where an orchestra plays every afternoon in the summer, -while dozens of carriages and motor cars with their tastefully dressed -occupants draw up and listen to the music, is a centre of attraction to -both residents and visitors. This park is to Denver as is the Pincian -Hill to Rome, or as Hyde Park to London,--the fashionable drive and -rendezvous. Great beds of scarlet geraniums contrast with the emerald -green of the grass, while here and there a fountain throws its spray -into the air. Far away on the horizon are the encircling mountains in -view for over two hundred miles, the ranges taking on all the colors -of fairyland, while a deep turquoise sky, soft and beautiful, bends -over the entire panorama. From this plateau four great peaks are in -view: Pike's Peak, seventy-five miles to the south; Long's, Gray's, and -James's peaks, all distinctly silhouetted against the sky, rising from -the serrated range which connects them. During these open-air concerts -in the park there is a midsummer holiday air over the scene as if all -the city were _en fęte_. - -The architectural scheme of Denver's residential region harmonizes with -the landscape. The houses are not the palaces of upper Fifth Avenue -and Riverside drive, or of Massachusetts or Connecticut avenues in -Washington; but there is hardly an individual residence that has not -legitimate claim to beauty. The tower, the oriel window, and the broad -balcony are much in evidence; and the piazza, with its swinging seat, -its easy chairs, and table disposed on a bright rug, suggest a charm -of _vie intime_ that appeals to the passer-by. Books, papers, and -magazines are scattered over the table: the home has the unmistakable -air of being lived in and enjoyed; of being the centre of a happy, -intelligent life, buoyant with enterprise and energy, and identified -with the social progress of the day. On the greenest of lawn a jet -of water or, in many cases, a fountain plays, the advantage of an -irrigated country being that the householder creates and controls -his own climatic conditions. The rain,--it raineth every day when -irrigation determines the shower; roses grow in riotous profusion on -the lawn, and the crimson "rambler" climbs the portico; lilies nod in -the luminous gold of the sunshine, and all kinds of foliage plants -lend their rich color to these beautiful grounds that surround every -home. To the children growing up in Denver the spectacle of dreary -streets would be as much of a novelty as the ruins of Karnak. The line -that divides the past from the present is not only very definite, but -also very recent, as is indicated by the question of a five-year-old -lad who wonderingly asked: "Mamma, did they ever have horses draw the -trolley cars?" The mastodon is not more remote in antiquity to the -man or woman of to-day than was the idea of horses drawing a car to -this child. Between the nineteenth and the twentieth centuries the -gulf of demarcation is almost as wide as between the fifteenth and the -nineteenth. - -The streets of Denver are very broad, usually planted with trees, and -the smooth roads offer an earthly paradise to the motor-car transit -that abounds in Denver. One of the happy excursions is that of -motoring to Colorado Springs, seventy-five miles distant, a constant -entertainment. With the splendid electric-transit system, annihilating -distance; with the broad streets paved after the best modern methods; -with the wide and smooth sidewalks of Colorado stone and the almost -celestial charm of the view, city life is transformed. Telephonic -service is practically universal; electric lighting and an admirable -water system are among the easy conveniences of this section, which is -not yet suburban because of its complete identification with all other -parts of the city. - -The universality of telephonic intercourse in Colorado would go far to -support the theory of Dr. Edward Everett Hale that the time will come -when writing will be a lost art, and will be considered, at best, as -a clumsy and laborious means of communication in much the same manner -that the late centuries regard the production of the manuscript book -before the invention of the art of printing. In few cities is the -telephone service carried out to such constant colloquial use as in -Denver. The traveller finds in his room a telephone as a matter of -course, and there are very few quarters of an hour when the bell does -not summon him to chat with a friend, from one on the same floor of the -hotel to one who is miles away in the city, or even fifty or a hundred -miles distant, as at Greeley, Colorado Springs, or Pueblo. - -"How are you to-day?" questions the friendly voice. "Did you see -so-and-so in the morning papers? And what do you think about it? and -can you be ready at eleven to go to hear Mrs. ---- lecture? and at -one will you lunch with Mrs. ----? the entire conversation to be in -Italian? and could you go at about four this afternoon to a tea to -meet an Oriental Princess who will discuss the laws of reincarnation? -and will you also dine with us at seven, and go later to the Woman's -Municipal Club that holds a conference to-night?" All those lovely -things fall upon one with apparently no thought of its being an unusual -day--this is Denver! This is twentieth-century life. This is an -illustration of what can be done when the non-essential is eliminated -from the days and that which is essential is felicitously pursued. - -When the Denver woman remarked to the Eastern woman sojourner within -the gates that she was unable to be away that autumn on any extended -absence, as the campaign was to be more than usually important, the -wanderer from the Atlantic shore irreverently laughed. Her hostess -endeavored (unsuccessfully) not to seem shocked by this levity -regarding serious subjects. She remembered that there were extenuating -circumstances, and that the Eastern women had really never had a fair -chance in life. Their part, she reflected, consisted in obeying laws -and abiding by whatever was decreed, with no voice allowed to express -their own preferences or convictions. She remembered that a proportion -of the feminine New England intellect consecrates its powers and -its time to extended researches in the Boston Public Library and in -the venerable records of the Massachusetts Historical Society, in -a perpetual quest of information regarding its ancestors, who are -worshipped with the zeal and fervor of the Japanese. The Boston woman, -indeed, may have only the most vague ideas regarding the rate bill, the -problem of the Philippines, the Panama Canal, or the next Governor of -Massachusetts; but she is thoroughly conversant with all the details -of the Mayflower and her own ancestral dignities. Recognizing the New -England passion for its ancestry, a leading Boston journal offers a -page, weekly, to open correspondence on the momentous question as -to whether Winthrop Bellingham married Priscilla Patience Mather in -1699 or in 1700, and a multitude of similar questions concerning -the vanished centuries. The Denver woman realized all this and was -discreetly charitable in her judgment of her friend's failure to -recognize the significant side of the political enfranchisement of -women in Colorado. For despite some actual disadvantages and defects -of woman suffrage in the centennial state, and a vast amount of -exaggerated criticism on these defects, it is yet a benefit to the four -states that enjoy it,--Colorado, Utah, Idaho, and Wyoming. - -In a majority of the states of the entire nation there is a conviction -(and one not without its claims) that women are adequately represented -and protected in all their rights, as things are, and that it is -superfluous to increase the vote. - -The anti-suffrage argument suggests many reflections whose truth must -be admitted, and this side of the controversy is espoused and led by -some proportion of men and women whose names inspire profound respect, -if not conviction, with their belief. Still, the fact remains that -when woman suffrage is subjected to the practical test of experience, -the advantages are so obvious, its efficacy for good so momentous, -that their realization fairly compels acceptance. In the entire nation -there has never been a man or a woman whose clearness and profundity -of intellect, moral greatness, and sympathetic insight into the very -springs of national and individual life exceeded those of Lucy Stone, -the remarkable pioneer in the political emancipation of women, whose -logical eloquence and winning, beautiful personality was the early -focus of this movement. Mrs. Stone surrounded herself with a noble -group,--Mary A. Livermore, Julia Ward Howe, Thomas Wentworth Higginson, -and others whose names readily suggest themselves, and with whom, in -the complete companionship and sympathy of her husband, Dr. Henry B. -Blackwell, she successfully worked, even though the final success has -not yet been achieved. Other great and noble women--Susan B. Anthony, -Elizabeth Cady Stanton--consecrated their entire lives and remarkable -powers to the early championship of woman suffrage. The present ranks -of women workers--the younger women--are so numerous, and they include -so large a proportion of the most notable women of both the East and -the West, that volumes would not afford sufficient room for adequate -allusion. In Denver the leading people are fully convinced of the -responsibility of women in politics. Although the ballot has not been -generally granted to women, the very movement toward it has resulted -in their higher education and their larger freedom in all ways. The -situation reminds one of the "subtle ways" of Emerson's Brahma: - - "If the red slayer think he slays, - Or if the slain think he is slain, - They know not well the subtle ways - I keep, and pass, and turn again. - - "Far or forgot to me is near; - Shadow and sunlight are the same; - The vanished gods to me appear; - And one to me are shame and fame. - - "They reckon ill who leave me out; - When me they fly, I am the wings; - I am the doubter and the doubt, - And I the hymn the Brahmin sings." - - * * * * * - -Apparently, the principle of woman suffrage has "subtle ways" in which -"to pass and turn again." It has recently turned in a manner to compel -a new and more profound revision of all opinion and argument. - -Colorado presents a most interesting field for the study of woman -suffrage, and from any fair and adequate review of its workings and -results there could hardly fail to be but one conclusion,--that of its -signal value and importance as a factor in human progress. One of its -special claims is of a nature not down on the bills,--the fact of the -great intellectual enlargement and stimulus,--aside from its results, -which the very exercise of political power gives to the women of the -state. It is seen in the higher quality of conversational tone and -the tendency to eliminate the inconsequential and the inane because -great matters of universal interest were thus brought home to women in -connection with their power to decide on these matters. This result -is perhaps equally seen among the women who rejoice and the women who -regret the fact of their political enfranchisement. For in Colorado, -as well as in other states, there is a proportion of women who do -not believe in the desirability of the ballot for themselves. They -sincerely regret that it has been "forced," as they say, upon them. -This proportion in Colorado is not a large one, but it includes some -of the most intelligent and cultured women, just as an enthusiastic -acceptance of the ballot includes a much larger proportion of this -higher order of women. However, welcome or unwelcome, desired or not -desired, the ballot is there, and so the women who regret this fact yet -realize its responsibility and feel it a moral duty to use it wisely as -well. And so they, too, study great questions, and discuss them, and -fit themselves to use the power that is conferred upon them. All this -reacts on the general tone of society, and the quality of conversation -at ladies' lunches, at teas, and at clubs, is of a far higher order -than is often found in other states among the more purely feminine -gatherings. - -Among the women who have successfully administered public office in -Colorado was the late Mrs. Helen Grenfell, whose record as State -Superintendent of Public Instruction was so remarkable that both -political parties supported her. A Denver journal said of her: - - "Mrs. Grenfell's term has lasted six years, the last two years - having been under a Republican administration, although Mrs. - Grenfell is a Democrat. Her most notable achievement has been in - her conduct of the school lands of the state, making them valuable - sources of revenue. Her policy from the first was against the sale - of the school lands, which comprise some three million acres. The - income from such sales had been limited, as the investments were - prescribed, and the interest rate rather low, as Western interest - goes. The leasing system was inaugurated under Mrs. Grenfell's - direction, and the result was an increase of school revenues of - nearly two hundred thousand dollars a year, with no decrease in - the capital. The Land Department of the state shares the credit - with the state superintendent of public instruction, as they have - administered her policy wisely, but the policy was hers alone." - -Judge Lindsay of Denver, giving an official opinion as to the -desirability of woman suffrage for Colorado, said: - - "Woman suffrage in Colorado for over ten years has more than - demonstrated its justice. No one would dare to propose its repeal; - and, if left to the men of the state, any proposition to revoke the - right bestowed upon women would be overwhelmingly defeated. - - "Many good laws have been obtained in Colorado which would not have - been secured but for the power and influence of women. - - "At some of the elections in Denver frauds have been committed. - Ninety-nine per cent of these frauds were committed by men, without - any connivance or assistance, direct or indirect, from women; but - because one per cent were committed by women, there are ignorant - or careless-minded people in other states who actually argue that - this is a reason for denying women the right to vote. If it were a - just reason for denying suffrage to women, it would be a ten times - greater reason for denying it to men. - - "In Colorado it has never made women any the less womanly or any - the less motherly, or interfered with their duties in the home, - that they have been given the right to participate in the affairs - of state. - - "Many a time I have heard the 'boss' in the political caucus object - to the nomination of some candidate because of his bad moral - character, with the mere explanation that if the women found him - out it might hurt the whole ticket. While many bad men have been - nominated and elected to office in spite of woman suffrage, they - have not been nominated and elected because of woman suffrage. If - the women alone had a right to vote, it would result in a class - of men in public office whose character for morality, honesty, and - courage would be of a much higher order.... - - "People have no right to judge woman suffrage in Colorado by - the election frauds in a few precincts. The election frauds in - Philadelphia, where women do not vote, were never used as a reason - why suffrage should be denied to men.... - - "With women, as with men, it requires more or less public sentiment - to arouse them to their civic duties; but when aroused, as they - frequently are, their power for good cannot be overestimated. - Again, the very fact that the women have such a power is a - wonderful reserve force in the cause of righteousness in Colorado, - and has been a powerful deterrent in anticipating and opposing the - forces of evil. - - "It does not take any mother from her home duties or cares to spend - ten minutes in going to the polling place and casting her vote and - returning to the bosom of her home; but in that ten minutes she - wields a power that is doing more to protect that home now, and - will do more to protect it in the future, and to protect all other - homes, than any power or influence in Colorado. - - "I know that the great majority of people in Colorado favor woman - suffrage, after more than a decade of practical experience,--first, - because it is fair, just, and decent; and secondly, because its - influence has been good rather than evil in our political affairs." - -Judge Lindsay's words represent the general attitude of the -representative people of the state. - -The Hon. Henry M. Teller, senior senator of Colorado, is one of the -most interesting men in the Centennial State, and the traveller who may -meet and talk with him is impressed with his quiet sincerity, with the -sense of reserved power with which he seems endowed, and the refinement -and directness of his methods. He is by birth an Eastern man, and a -graduate of Harvard; but his mature life has been passed in Colorado. -As a lawyer his law office claims much of his time and thought, -even with all the great tide of national interests with which he is -identified. He is a thorough and, indeed, an astute politician; not -in the "machine" sense, but with a very clear and comprehensive grasp -of the situation and a large infusion of practical sagacity. Senator -Teller is in no sense an enthusiast. He is responsive to high aims and -high ideals; he knows what they are, so to speak; he recognizes them on -sight; he never falls into the error of under-valuing them; but he is -not a man to be carried away by an ecstatic vision, and he would have -no use for wings at all where he had feet. He would regard the solid -earth as a better foundation, on the whole, than the air, and one more -suited to existing conditions. - -Senator Teller has had more than a quarter of a century's experience in -political life and in statesmanship. For two years he was a member of -the Cabinet. For twenty-seven years he has been in the Senate, where, -with Senator Hoar of Massachusetts, he shared the highest honor, -and the most absolute confidence, in both his flawless integrity and -conspicuous ability, that the Senate, and the nation as well, can give -to him. - -Senator Patterson, the junior senator from Colorado, is a man whom, if -he encounters an obstacle does not grant it the dignity of recognition. -He instantly discovers the end,--the desired result,--and declares, per -saltum, "It is right; it should be done,--it shall be done." Senator -Patterson is a man of very keen perceptions and one with whom it is -easy to come into touch instantly; he is responsive, sympathetic, -full of faith that the thing that ought to be accomplished can be -accomplished, and therefore that it shall be. Senator Patterson has the -typical American experience of successful men lying behind him. He was -on familiar terms with the intricacies of a newspaper office in his -youth; he studied in an Indiana college without an annual expenditure -of that twenty thousand dollars which some of the latter-day Harvard -undergraduates find indispensable to the process of securing their "B. -A.," and tradition records, indeed, that the junior Colorado senator, -in the prehistoric days of his youth, set out for the fountain of -learning with a capital of forty dollars; that he frugally walked -from Crawfordsville to Indianapolis that he might not deplete his -financial estate which was destined to buy a scholarship, and that in -this unrecorded tour in the too, too truly rural region of his early -life, he cleaned two clocks on the way in payment for lodging, and -that he cleaned them uncommonly well. Of all this traditionary history -who shall say? Senator Patterson is a man who would always keep faith -with his aims and convictions. He is sunny and full of wit, and full of -faith in the ultimate triumph of good things in general, and is, all in -all, one of the most genial and delightful of men--and senators. - -It is related that Senator Patterson first dawned upon Denver in its -primeval period of 1872, when its municipal affairs were conducted by -two prominent--if not eminent--gentlemen, one of whom was the champion -gambler, and the other the champion brewer of the metropolis. There -were eleven thousand nine hundred and ninety-eight other citizens -in this municipality besides the brewer and the gambler (and the -population was said to have been twelve thousand in all), and the -eleven thousand nine hundred and ninety-eight, like "The Ten" of early -Florentine history, decided that would "reform the town." Their united -effort was to elect Mr. Patterson as Mayor. And a good one he proved; -and he has gone on and on, in the minds as well as in the hearts of his -fellow-citizens, until now he is the colleague of Senator Teller, and -he offers another typical illustration of true American integrity and -honorable ambition and success. Personally, Senator Patterson is one of -the most winning men in the world, and one delights in his success and -the high estimation in which he is held. - -The development of Colorado and other parts of the great Southwest -during the past half-century has created a new order of employment in -that of the government expert,--the specialist in upland or hydraulic -irrigation, in engineering and mining problems. The government -surveying work has also increased largely, both in extent and in the -greater number of specialties now required. The Geological Survey and -the Agricultural Department, both included under the Department of -the Interior, are rapidly multiplying branches of work that require -both the skilled training and ability for original research and -accomplishment. These positions, which command government salaries -at from some eighteen to twenty-five hundred dollars a year, afford -such opportunity for the expert to reveal his value that private -corporations and business houses continually draw on the ranks of -the government employees. Of late years the demand for the expert -irrigation engineer has been so great in Colorado as to seriously -embarrass the government forces by drawing some of the best men for -private service. Denver is an especial centre for these enterprises, -as being the natural metropolis for the vast inter-mountain region and -the plains country of the Missouri River. This vast territory will -support many millions more of population. In fact, the dwellers within -this described territory at this day are but pioneers on the frontier -to what the future will develop, although they already enjoy all the -benefits of the older states, with countless advantages beside which -they cannot enjoy. - -The smelteries in Denver, of which the Grant is the largest, treat -millions of pounds of copper and lead, and great quantities of silver -and gold, while there are also extensive ones in Pueblo, Leadville, -Durango, and other places. There is also a good proportion of Colorado -ore which is not treated at all at smelteries, but is of a free-milling -order. The revenue from mining has exceeded fifty millions of dollars -annually of late years, but the revenue from agriculture exceeds -that of the mines, and to these must be added some twenty millions -a year from live stock during the past two or three years. In the -aggregate, Colorado has an internal revenue of hardly less than one -hundred millions a year, and this largely passes through Denver as the -distributing point, constituting the Capital one of the most prosperous -of young cities. Denver stands alone in a rich region. One thousand -miles from Chicago, six hundred miles from Kansas City, and four -hundred miles from Salt Lake City, Denver holds its place without any -rival. - -The ideal conditions of living have never been entirely combined in any -one locality on this sublunary planet, so far as human history reveals; -and with all the scenic charm, the rich and varied resources, and the -phenomenal development of Colorado, no one could truthfully describe -it as Utopia. There is no royal road to high achievement in any line. -Difficulties and obstacles are "a part of the play," and he alone is -wise who, by his own determination, faith, and persistence of energy, -transforms his very obstacles into stepping-stones and thus gains the -strength of that which he overcomes. - -Northern Colorado has great resources even beyond the coal fields -that will make it the power centre; with its prestige of Denver, and -such surrounding towns as Greeley, Boulder, Fort Collins, Golden, and -others, all of which fall within a group of social and commercial -centres that will soon be interconnected by a network of electric -trolley lines. For the electric road between Greeley and Denver Mr. J. -D. Houseman has secured a right of way one hundred and fifty feet wide, -the rails being midway between the Union Pacific and the Burlington -lines. Mr. Houseman is one of the noted financiers of the East who came -to Denver to incorporate and build this road, and his is only one of -three companies that are now in consultation with the power company -negotiating for the supplies which will enable them to build the -proposed new roads. - -The Seeman Tunnel, which is to be constructed near Idaho Springs, at a -distance of fifty miles from Denver, and which is to be twelve miles -in length, although at an elevation of eighty-five hundred feet, is -yet to extend under Fall River and the Yankee, Alice, and the Lombard -mining districts. It will be one of the marvels of the state, and -will penetrate a thousand mining veins. The Continental Mines, Power -and Reduction Company, recently incorporated with a capital of three -millions, of which Captain Seeman is the president, owns many of the -mining veins which will be touched by this tunnel. Many of the veins -to which this tunnel will afford approach have not been accessible -heretofore for more than four or five months in the year. For the -remaining six or seven months travel is practically impossible in these -mountains; the "claims" cannot be reached, as they lie in the region of -perpetual snow. When the Seeman Tunnel is completed the owner of any -claim that is tapped by it can, by paying a certain royalty per ton -for each ton of ore mined, obtain the right to work it in the tunnel, -thus being able to proceed through the entire year and at a far less -cost in production than at present. Regarding this gigantic enterprise, -Captain Seeman said, in June of 1906, that the work would be pushed as -rapidly as men, money, and machinery could advance it, and, he added: -"I consider it one of the greatest tunnels ever attempted, and one -that will hold the record for mining tunnels. I am confident that we -will strike enough ore within the first two or three miles to keep -us busy for years." The Leviathan is one of the first veins that the -tunnel is expected to tap,--a vein three hundred feet wide on the -surface,--and while already traced for more than three miles, it holds -every promise for as yet uncalculated extension. The Lombard is another -vein of leading importance which promises to be a bonanza. Gold is the -principal mineral that appears in these veins, although silver, lead, -and copper are found. Another ore, tungsten, used for hardening in -armor plates, large guns, and the best mechanical implements,--an ore -valued at six hundred dollars per ton,--has been discovered in these -veins. The Seeman Tunnel is located directly under James's Peak. - -Another of the remarkable engineering marvels that mark the progress of -Colorado is the Moffat road, the new railroad between Denver and Salt -Lake City, now open as far as Kremling, which initiated its passenger -service in the late June of 1906 with daily excursions, in solid -vestibuled trains, making the round trip between Denver and Tolland, -Corona (the region of perpetual snow) and Arrow, on the Pacific slope -of the Continental Divide, in one day. This vast enterprise is due to -the genius and the prophetic vision of President David H. Moffat of the -First National Bank in Denver, one of the leaders in all that makes for -the best interests and the advancement of the Centennial State, and of -the future of Denver the Beautiful. Mr. Moffat says: - - "Denver's population is growing steadily and naturally. Some time - ago I made the prediction that Denver would have three hundred - thousand inhabitants within five years. I see no reason for - changing my estimate. Rather, I might increase it, but I will be - conservative. - - "The things that build up a city's wealth and population are 'round - about Denver in prodigal quantities. If Denver had only the state - of Colorado from which to draw, her future would be absolutely - assured. But consider the vast territory that is tributary to this - city. It stretches away to the east, west, north, and south, an - area quite one-third of the whole country, and quite the richest - in all natural resources. Denver is the geographical hub of this - territory." - -The Moffat road will climb the ramparts formed by the main range of -the Rocky Mountains west of Denver and run directly westward, passing -through one of the most fertile sections of the state. The road ascends -to an altitude of eleven thousand six hundred feet, running through a -region rich in minerals, and especially in coal. The sublime scenery -along the route has already made it most popular for excursions, which -draw a vast tourist travel continually. President Moffat's road has -brought Routt County into such prominence that investors from the East -are being attracted to this region, a notable one among these being the -Eastern capitalist, C. B. Knox, who proposes to invest in copper, coal, -and iron in Routt County, which he regards as the richest section in -Colorado. Mr. Knox engaged the services of several experts to examine -and report to him upon this region. To a press correspondent who -inquired of Mr. Knox his views regarding Colorado, he said: - - "I believe that there is wealth unmeasured in Routt County, and I - am out here to put some money in there. I am sure that this section - of the state is one of the richest territories in the country. - How I became interested is a long story,--too long to tell. But - it is sufficient to say that I have heard of Routt County for so - long, and from so many different people in whose judgment I have - the utmost faith, that I have come out here to invest some money. - I believe thoroughly that money put into Routt County will within - a few years bring handsome returns. If I did not believe that I - should not be here looking for a place in which to invest money. - - "I have been to Steamboat Springs myself, and I am thoroughly of - the opinion that it is going to be one of the big towns of your - state. The fact is, I have never seen a better looking proposition - in my life than investing money in Routt County. Already I have - purchased some land, and I am going to get more. It is this iron - proposition that I am having investigated the most completely. The - iron to be found in Routt County looks awfully good to me, and - there is no question in my mind that Routt County is the place to - put capital. - - "I cannot, of course, at this time say just what properties I - have in view,--that would not be good business; but I have under - investigation locations of mineral property near Steamboat and - north and south of there. I have decided on nothing definite; - that is, as to just what ores I will endeavor to exploit, for the - whole proposition looks so good to me that I am going to purchase - probably several different kinds of propositions. As I say, - though, I am most interested in the iron ore, as that seems to - present the greatest opportunities." - -These views are significant not only as those of an experienced -financier who has unbounded faith in the future of Colorado, but -also as typical of the wide range of vision which is open to the -trained eye of the capitalist and the organizer of great enterprises. -The spellbinder may work his will in Colorado. It is the land of -infinite opportunity. It offers resources totally unsurpassed in the -entire world for unlimited development, and these resources await the -recognition of those whose vision is sufficiently true to discern the -psychological moment. - -The first railroad reached Denver thirty-six years ago, and the city -has now sixteen railroad lines. It has a population of over two hundred -and twenty-five thousand. It is a geographical centre, which assures -its permanent importance as a distributing point. With two hundred and -twenty-five miles of street railway, with seventy-five miles of paved -streets, and a taxable property estimated at one hundred and two and a -third millions, Denver holds unquestionable commercial importance. - -When, on the evening of July Fourth, 1906, the splendid electric flag, -with the national colors intensified a thousand fold in brilliancy by -the electrical lights, floated in the air from the dome of the Capitol -on its commanding eminence, and the new city Arch, a veritable _Arc -de Triomphe_, flashed its "Welcome" in electrical light to eager -throngs, the moment was one which might well have been fixed on the -sensitive plate of the camera of the future as typical of the entire -horoscope of Denver the Beautiful. On that day had been unveiled this -triumphal arch, placed at the Seventeenth Street entrance to the city -from the Union Depot, which, in its sixteen hundred electric lights, -flashes its legend upon the vision of every one entering Denver. This -arch, weighing seventy tons, eighty feet in length, and with a central -height of fifty-nine feet, is constructed from a combination of metals -so united as to give the best results in strength, durability, and -beauty, and thus to stand as a symbol of the composite life of the -nation. Over the entire surface has been placed a plating of bronze -finished with _verde antique_, to thus give it the aspect of ancient -bronze. It is built at a cost of twenty-two thousand dollars, and the -originator of the idea, Mr. William Maher of Denver, received the -entire subscriptions for it within one day. The design is that of a -Denver girl, Miss Marie Woodson, whose name must always be immortalized -in connection with this beautiful achievement which typifies the spirit -of the city. Constructed by one of the city manufactories, the design -and the execution are thus exclusively of Denver. In his address at the -unveiling of the arch, Chancellor Buchtel said: - - "To all men who stand for honesty, for industry, for justice, for - reverence for law, for reverence for life, for education, for - self-reliance, for individual initiative, for independence, and - for sound character, the city of Denver speaks only one word, and - the state of Colorado speaks only one word, and that word we have - emblazoned on this glorious Arch,--the word 'Welcome.'" - -Dean Hart, offering the Invocation, referred to the scriptural fact -that God had instructed his leaders to build monuments that they might -bear witness to some act or covenant, and it was right that the people -of Denver should raise this similar monument to their ideals of peace -and happiness and truth and justice. Mayor Speer, accepting the gift on -behalf of the city, emphasized the fact that the arch was to stand in -its place for ages as the expression of the attitude of the citizens -to the strangers who enter their gates. "It is intended to reflect our -hospitality," said Mayor Speer, "on a traveller's arrival and on his -departure. It is more than a thing of beauty; it is the type of the -new spirit in Denver, an awakening of civic pride that is sure to be -followed by much that is artistic and beautiful in our beloved city." - -The spirit of Denver the Beautiful is finely interpreted in these words -by representative citizens. It is the spirit of generous and cordial -hospitality to all who are prepared to enter into and to contribute to -its high standards of life. It is the spirit of continually forging -ahead to accomplish things; of that irresistible energy, combined with -the eternal vigilance, which is not only the price of liberty, but -the price of almost everything worth having. With this zeal for the -great achievements,--carrying railroads through the mountains, opening -the inexhaustible treasures of mines, bringing the snow of mountain -peaks to irrigate the arid plains, establishing electric transit for -fifty miles about, and telephonic connection that brings an area of -hundreds of miles into instant speaking range with Denver,--with all -the zeal for these executive accomplishments, the spirit of Denver is -focussed on that social progress which is aided and fostered by all -modern mechanical facilities. Education, culture, and religion are -nowhere more held as the essentials of social progress than in Denver. -Something of the nature of the problems of civilization that confronted -the early pathfinders in Colorado may be inferred from the words of -Major Long,--whose name is now perpetuated by the mountain peak that -bears it,--when, in 1862, he stated, in an official report to the -government: - - "This region, according to the best intelligence that can be had, - is thoroughly uninhabitable by a people depending on agriculture - for their subsistence, but, viewed as a frontier, may prove of - infinite importance to the United States, inasmuch as it is - calculated to serve as a barrier to prevent too great an extension - of our population westward and secure us against the machinations - or incursions of an enemy that might otherwise be disposed to annoy - us in that quarter." - -Less than sixty-five years have passed since the region of which Denver -is the great centre was thus pronounced useless except as a frontier -to serve as protection from an enemy, and this judgment reminds one -of a keen insight into the evolutionary progress of life expressed by -Mrs. Julia Ward Howe when she remarked that "Every generation makes a -fool of the one that went before it." Colorado, pronounced "thoroughly -uninhabitable" in 1842, was organized as a territory in 1861 and in -1876 admitted as a state. - -Darwin, who regarded "climate and the affections" as the only absolute -necessities of terrestrial existence, should have lived in Denver, -for of all the beautiful climates is that in which revels the capital -of Colorado. The air is all liquid gold from sunrise till sunset; the -mountains swim in a sea of azure blue; the ground is bare and dry in -winter, affording the best of walking, and there are few cities where -the general municipal management exceeds or is, perhaps, even as good -as that of Denver. The electric street-car service is on schedule time, -and the two hundred and twenty-five miles of its extent already, with -increase in the near future, is certainly an achievement for a young -city. Nature is a potent factor in this excellent service, as there is -no blocking by heavy snowstorms and blizzards, as in the Middle West -and the East. - -The gazer in the magic mirror of the future requires little aid from -the imagination to see, in the growth and development of Denver, an -impressive illustration of the significance of the name of the state -of which it is the capital and the keynote. With what felicitous -destiny is the name invested in the old Castilian phrase, "_A Dios con -le Colorado_" (Go thou merrily with God),--a parting salutation and -benediction. Denver is, indeed, more than a state capital; it is the -epitome of the great onward march of civilization, and it must always -be considered in its wide relations to all the great Southwest as well -as in respect to its own municipal individuality. - -No citizen of Denver has contributed more to the moral and intellectual -quality of the city as one of the conductors of great enterprises held -amenable to the higher ideals of citizenship, than has Mr. S. K. Hooper -of the Denver and Rio Grande, which is one of the marvels of the West -in scenic glory. From May till October pleasure tourists throng this -marvellous route through the Royal Gorge, through mysterious caņons -and across the Divide. For it must always be remembered that Denver -is a great city for tourists and season visitors, and the floating -population exceeds a hundred thousand annually. Beautiful as it is in -the winter, Denver is also essentially a summer city. There is not a -night in the summer when the wind, cool, refreshing, exhilarating, does -not blow from the great rampart of the snow-clad, encircling mountains. -There is not a morning when the wind does not come again, sending -the blood leaping through the veins, while the sun rides across the -heavens in a glory of brilliancy, and the great range rears its white -head to the cloudless blue sky. - -The Denver Art League is a flourishing association that has under its -auspices classes in drawing, water colors, and sculpture. Already many -artists of Colorado are winning a name. A new Public Library is now in -process of erection, and the Chamber of Commerce also maintains a free -library of some twenty-five thousand volumes, the reading-room open -every day in the year. The city appropriates six thousand dollars a -year for the expenses of this institution. - -The educational standards of Denver are high. Drawing, music, and -German are included among the studies of the grammar schools, and -physical culture is introduced in each grade. The high school building -cost a quarter of a million dollars, and stands second in the entire -country in point of architectural beauty and admirable arrangements. -Besides the splendid public-school system there is the University of -Denver, a few miles from the city; St. Mary's (Catholic) Academy, and -two large (Episcopal) schools for girls and boys, respectively,--"Wolfe -Hall" and St. John's College. The Woman's College and Westminster -University complete this large group of educational institutions -which centre in Denver. There is also the University of Colorado at -Boulder, which has established a record for success under the able -administration of Dr. James H. Baker, who, in January of 1892, was -called to the presidency after having served as principal of the -Denver High School for seventeen years. President Baker is well known -in educational circles in the United States as a scholarly man and a -capable college president. He has been offered the presidency of other -State universities from time to time, but has preferred to remain in -Boulder and to concentrate his efforts toward making this institution -one of the largest and best of the state universities. He has always -been active in the State Teachers' Association and the National Council -of Education. - -For three years past the University of Colorado has held a summer -school with a large attendance of teachers and college students. In -this past season of 1906, Professor Paul Hanus of Harvard University -gave a valuable course of lectures on education, and Professor Hart, -also of Harvard, conducted a course in history. - -Over a hundred and fifteen thousand pupils are enrolled in the public -schools of Denver, including all grades, from the primary to the high -school. The latter offers the full equivalent of a college education -freely to all. - -The churches of Denver are numerous, and include many fine edifices -besides the large granite Methodist Church that cost over a quarter of -a million dollars. It is not, however, only the church structures that -are noble and impressive, but the preaching in them is of an unusually -high order of both intellectual power and spiritual aspiration. The -keen, critical life of Colorado's capital demands the best thought of -the day. The wonderful exhilaration of the atmosphere seems to exert -its influence on all life as a universal inspiration. - -The new building for the Denver Public Library is under process of -construction, an appropriation of a quarter of a million dollars having -been made for the edifice, which will stand in a small triangular -park, insuring air and light, and giving to its approach a stately and -beautiful dignity. - -The Colorado capital is tending to fulfil the poet's ideal of affording - - "room in the streets for the soul." - -The life is most delightful. Without any undue and commonplace -formalities, yet always within that fine etiquette which is the -unconscious result of good breeding, the meeting and mingling has a -cordial and sincere basis that lends significance to social life. The -numerous clubs, and the associations for art and music, for Italian, -French, and German readings, are all vital and prominent in the city, -and the political equality of woman imparts to conversation a tone of -wider thought and higher importance than is elsewhere invariably found. - -Denver, which should be the capital city of the United States, is -pre-eminently the convention city. Even with all the beauty of -Washington and the vast sums that have been expended within the -past fifteen years in the incomparable structure for the Library of -Congress, and in other fine public buildings, and the splendor of -the private residence region,--even with all this, and the fact that -the Capitol itself is one of the notable architectural creations of -the world, the nation is great enough and rich enough to found a -new capital which should far surpass the present one, however fine -that present one may be. However great are the treasures of art and -architecture in Washington, the change could be, even now, made with -the greatest advantage for the future. Within a quarter of a century -all that invests Washington with such charm in architectural beauty and -in art could be more than duplicated in Denver. The nation has wealth -enough, and the most modern ideas and inspirations in these lines -surpass those of any previous age or decade. The present is "the heir -of all the ages." - -No one need marvel that Denver ranks as the western metropolis of the -Union, with its delightful climate, its infinite interests, its centre -as a point for charming excursions, and its sixteen railroad lines. - -In this atmosphere of opportunity and privilege there is, indeed, -"room for the soul" and all that the poet's phrase suggests. There -is room for all noble and generous development; for the expansion of -the spirit to express itself in all loveliness of life, all splendid -energy of achievement; and in all that makes for the supreme aim of a -nation,--that of a Christian civilization,--no city can offer greater -scope than does Denver the Beautiful. - - - - -CHAPTER III - -THE PICTURESQUE REGION OF PIKE'S PEAK - - "_And ever the spell of beauty came - And turned the drowsy world to flame._" - - EMERSON - - -In the picturesque region of Pike's Peak there is grouped such an -array of scenic wonders as are unrivalled, within the limits of any -corresponding area, in the entire world. To this region Colorado -Springs is the gateway, and the poetic little city is already famous -as one of the world resorts whose charm is not exclusively restricted -to the summer. The winter is also alluring, for Colorado is the land -of perpetual sunshine. One turns off the steam heat and sits with open -windows in December. The air is electric, exhilarating. The cogwheel -road up Pike's Peak is stopped; but almost any of the other excursions -one can take as enjoyably as in summer. The East is, apparently, under -the delusion that the land is covered with snow up to the very summit -of Pike's Peak. On the contrary, the ground is bare and dry; the -birds are singing, the sun shines for all, and the everlasting hills -silhouette themselves against the blue sky in all their grandeur. -One easily slips into all the charm and fascination of Colorado days -through these resplendent winters, when there are two hours more of -light and sunshine in Colorado, on account of its altitude, than in any -state to the eastward. The climate of Colorado Springs has a perfection -that is remarked even in the Centennial State, where, in every part, -the climate is unsurpassed in sunshine and exhilaration. Especially, -however, is Colorado Springs a summer resort, as is Saratoga or Newport -or Bar Harbor. Its season is increasingly brilliant and crowded. People -come to stay a day and prolong it to a week, or come for a week and -prolong their stay to a month. The driving is fine, the motor cars are -abundant, the excursions are delightful, and the air is as curative and -exhilarating as is possible to conceive. The inner glories of the Rocky -Mountains, with their vast caņons and giant peaks; their waterfalls -dashing over precipices hundreds of feet in height; the fascinating -glens and mesas for camping excursions, or for scientific research and -study, are all reached by this gateway of Colorado Springs. - -Pike's Peak, this stupendous continental monument, dominates the entire -region. The atmospheric effects around its summit offer a perpetual -panorama of kaleidoscopic changes of color and cloud-forms. Looking -out on the Peak from Colorado Springs, three miles from its base, -there are hours when it seems to be actually approaching with such -swift though stately measure that one involuntarily shrinks back from -the window in irrational alarm lest the grim monster shall bear down -upon it, with a force inevitable as Fate; disastrous as a colossal -iceberg wandering from Polar seas and sweeping down with irresistible -force against the side of a transatlantic liner. In a lightning flash -of instantaneous, unreasoning vision, one beholds in imagination the -impending destruction of a city. It becomes a thing endowed with -volition; a weird, uncanny monster, the abode of the gods who have -reared their monuments and established their pleasure-grounds in their -strange, fantastic garden at its foot. - -Again, the Peak enfolds itself in clouds and, secure in this drapery, -retires altogether from sight, as if weary of being the object of -public view. It is as if the inmates of a house, feeling an invasion -of public interest, should turn off the lights, draw the curtains, and -close the shutters as a forcible intimation of their preference for -privacy and their decision to exclude the madding crowd. Sometimes -the Peak will flaunt itself in glorious apparel and gird itself -in strength. With light it will deck itself as with a garment. It -surprises a sunrise with the reflection of glory transfigured into -unspeakable resplendence. It is the royal monarch to which every -inhabitant of the Pike's Peak region, every sojourner in the land, must -pay his tribute. The day is fair or foul according as Pike's Peak shall -smile or frown. All the cycles of the eternal ages have left on its -summit their records,--the silent and hidden romance of the air. The -scientist alone may translate this aërial hieroglyphic. - - "Omens and signs that fill the air - To him authentic witness bear." - -This monumental peak of the continent shrouds in oblivion its mystic -past, and still the handwriting on the wall may be read by him who -holds the key to all this necromancy. The record of the ages is written -on parchment that will never crumble. The mysteries of the very -creation itself,--of all this vast and marvellous West,--of infinite -expanse of sea and of volcanic fires that swallowed up the waters and -crystallized them into granite and porphyry,--this very record of -Titanic processes is written, in mystic characters, in that far upper -air where the lofty Peak reigns in unapproachable majesty. For while -there are other peaks in the Rocky Mountains as high,--and Long's -Peak even exceeds it in altitude,--there is no other which rises so -distinctly alone and which so supremely dominates an infinite plateau -that extends, like the ocean, beyond the limit of vision. - -[Illustration: SUMMIT OF PIKE'S PEAK, COLORADO] - -There is one glory of the moon and another glory of the stars, as -well as the glory of the sun, in this mountain region of Colorado -Springs. The sunsets over the mountains are marked by the most gorgeous -phenomena of color before whose intensity all the hues of a painter's -palette pale. The gates of the New Jerusalem seem to open. Great -masses of billowy clouds in deepest, burning gold hang in the air; -the rainbow hues of all the summers that have shone upon earth since -the first rainbow was set in the heavens, reflect themselves in a -thousand shimmering cloud-shapes. It is one of the definite things of -the tourist's day to watch from the western terrace of "The Antlers" -these unrivalled sunset effects; and when, later (still in compliance -with the unwritten laws that prevail in the Empire of Transcendent -Beauty), dinner is served at small tables on the terrace,--where the -flowers that form the centrepiece of each table, the gleam of exquisite -cut glass and silver, and the music from an orchestra hidden behind -the palms and tall roses that fling a thousand fragrances on the -enchanted air all blend as elements of the faëry scene whose background -is a panoramic picture of mountains and sky,--the visitor realizes an -atmosphere of enchantment that one might well cross a continent to gain. - -Again, there is the glory of the night. A young moon glances shyly over -the mountain summit and swiftly retires to her mysterious realms on -the other side. Each ensuing night she ventures still further afield, -gazing still longer at the world she is visiting before she again wings -her flight down the western sky, pausing, for a tremulous moment, -on the very crest of the mountains ere she is lost to sight in the -vague distance beyond. The stars come and go in impressive troops and -processions. They float up from behind the mountains till one questions -as to whether the other side is not a vast realm of star-dust in -process of crystallizing into planets and stars. Has one, then, at -last arrived at the Land that is the forge of the gods who create it? -May one here surprise the very secrets of the Universe? Perhaps some -dim, mysterious under-world lies over that colossal range in which -celestial mechanism is at work sending forth and withdrawing the -shining planetary visitants, so continuous is the procession of stars -through all the hours of the night. Each star, as it rises over the -mountains or sets behind them, pauses for an instant on the crest for a -preliminary survey, or a parting glance, of the world it is entering or -leaving. - -It is still in the realms of doubt as to whether there may be -discovered a royal road to learning; but a royal road to the summit -of Pike's Peak, more than fourteen thousand feet above sea level, has -been, since 1890, an accomplished fact in the Manitou and Pike's Peak -cogwheel road, starting from Engleman's Glen, one of the famous resorts -of Manitou. This lovely town, that dreams away its summer at the base -of Pike's Peak guarded by precipitous mountain walls, is connected -with Colorado Springs by electric trolley, and the little journey of -four miles is one of the pleasure excursions of the region. The route -lies past the "Garden of the Gods," where the curious shapes of red -sandstone loom up like spectral forms in some Inferno. - -Like Naples, Colorado Springs is the paradise of the tourist, offering -a new excursion for every day in the season; and there are few of -these whose route does not include lovely Manitou, which is also the -objective point from which to fare forth on this journey above the -clouds, into those mysterious realms where he who listens aright may -hear spoken the words which it is not lawful for man to utter. The -journey into aërial spaces opens in a defile of one of the deep caņons, -the train on the one hand clinging to the wall, while on the other one -looks down a vast precipice, at the foot of which dashes a river over -gigantic boulders. The route is diversified by the little stations on -the way,--Minnehaha, whose waterfall indeed laughs in the air, and is -given back in a thousand ghostly echoes; the Half-Way House, nestling -under the pinnacled rocks of Hell Gate--must one always pass through -the portals of Hades on his way to Paradise? Strange and grotesque -scenery companions the way. On the mountain-side one finds--of all -things--a newspaper office, where a souvenir daily paper is issued -with all the news of that new world above the clouds, Pike's Peak. The -ascent is very steep in places. The verdure of the foothills vanishes, -the trees cease to invade this upper air, and only the dwarfed aspen -shivers in the breeze as it clings to some barren rock. New vistas -open. The world of day and daylight duties is left behind. Gaunt, -spectral rocks in uncanny shapes haunt the way. The air grows chill; -car windows are closed, and warm wraps are at a premium. But the scene -below! The sensation of looking down on the clouds, the view of Lake -Moraine, an inland sea high in the mountains; the new sensations of the -rarefied air,--all these seem to initiate one into a new world. From -the summit, reached in a journey of ninety minutes, the view can only -be described as that of unspeakable awe and sublimity. An expanse of -sixty thousand miles is open to the gaze. To the west rise a thousand -towering peaks, snow clad, in a majesty of effect beyond power of -portrayal. To the east the vast plateaus stretch into infinite space. -Below, the sun shines on floating clouds in all gleams of color. In the -steel tower of the new Summit Hotel is a powerful telescope that brings -Denver, eighty miles distant, into near and distinct view. In Colorado -Springs, fourteen miles "as the crow flies," the telescopic view even -reveals the signs on the streets so they may be plainly read. In close -range of vision appear Pueblo, Cripple Creek, Victor, Goldfield, -Independence, and Manitou. - -The surface of the top of Pike's Peak comprises several acres of level -land thickly strewn with large blocks of rough granite of varying -size,--blocks that are almost wholly in a regular rectangular shape, -as if prepared for some Titanic scheme of architecture. The highest -telegraph office in the world is located here, and the usual souvenir -shop of every summer resort offers its tempting remembrances, all of -which are closely associated with the _genus loci_, and are all a very -part of the Colorado productions. A powerful searchlight was placed -on Pike's Peak during the summer of 1906, adding the most picturesque -feature of night to all the surrounding country. Denver, Colorado -Springs, Pueblo, the Cripple Creek district, the deep caņons of the -Cheyenne range, the silvery expanse of Broadmoor, whose attractive -casino is a centre of evening gatherings,--all these points in the -great landscape are swept with the illumination from the highest -searchlight in the world to-day. - -A century has passed since Major Zebulon Montgomery Pike first -discovered the shadowy crest of the mountain peak that immortalizes -his name. It was on November 13, 1806, that the attention of Major -Pike and his party was arrested by what at first looked to them as a -light blue cloud in the sky, toward which they marched for ten days -before arriving at the base of the mountain. The story of this journey -is one of the dramatic records in the national archives. Major Pike -and his men left St. Louis on July 15, 1806, on his trip to the Rocky -Mountains, or Mexican Mountains as he called them at the time. He -pronounced the country through which he travelled to be so devoid of -sustenance for human beings that it would serve as a barrier, for all -time, in the expansion of the United States. In vivid contrast are -the conditions to-day. Major Pike could now make his journey from St. -Louis to Pike's Peak over either of several grand trunk railways -equipped with all the modern luxuries of travel. Where he passed great -herds of buffalo, he would now see cattle grazing in equal numbers on -the prairies. The vast plains that paralyzed his imagination by their -desolate aspects are now dotted with prosperous farms or ranches. The -mountains that appealed to him only for their scenic grandeur have -been found to be the treasure vaults of nature that were only waiting -to be conquered by the hardy frontiersmen who followed him nearly half -a century later. The great white mountain that he declared could not -be ascended by a human being is now the objective point of a hundred -thousand tourists annually, who gayly climb the height in a swift trip -made in a luxurious Pullman observation car. The first attempt of the -Pike party to ascend the peak was a failure, and Major Pike expressed -his opinion that "no human being could ascend to its pinnacle." In 1819 -Hon. John C. Calhoun, then Secretary of War, sent Major Long and a -party on an expedition to the Rocky Mountains, then almost as unknown -as the Himalayas. This exploring party camped on the present site of -Colorado Springs, and on July 13 (1819) started to ascend the peak. On -the first day they made only two miles, as the ground was covered with -loose, crumbling granite. On the second day, however, they succeeded; -the first ascent of Pike's Peak thus having been made on July 14, 1819. -A chronicle of this ascent describes the point above which the timber -line disappears as one "of astonishing beauty and of great interest as -to its productions." The first woman to stand on the summit of Pike's -Peak was Mrs. James H. Holmes, in August of 1858. - -General Zebulon Montgomery Pike achieved distinction both as an -explorer and a brave soldier. He was but twenty-seven years of age -when he was chosen to lead the most important military expedition of -the day, and eight years later, as Brigadier-General, he commanded the -troops that captured the British stronghold at York (now Toronto), -Canada, and here he met his death, which has been compared to that of -Nelson. The captured flag of the enemy was placed under the head of -the dying general to ease his pain. The cheers of his soldiers aroused -the young commander, and on being told that the fort was captured, he -closed his eyes with the words, "I die content." - -In his notebook were found the maxims that had guided him through life, -dedicated to his son, among which were "Preserve your honor free from -blemish," and "Be always ready to die for your country." - -General Pike was buried with full military honors in the government -plot at Madison Barracks, New York. A modest shaft marks the resting -place of the heroic soldier-explorer, and on Cascade Avenue in Colorado -Springs, directly in front of "The Antlers," there is placed a statue -of the heroic discoverer of the mighty Peak which forever perpetuates -his name. - -No adequate life of Pike has ever been written; but with the monumental -majesty of the mid-continental mountain peak that proclaims his name to -all future centuries, what room can there be for biographical record -or sculptured memorial? The archives of the Department of War, in -Washington, contain his diary, kept from day to day in this march from -St. Louis to Colorado. After his discovery of the Peak, Major Pike -returned to the place where now the city of Pueblo stands, continuing -his journey into the mountains, thence to New Mexico, where he was -captured by the Spaniards. Hardships of every description were suffered -by the party before being placed in captivity at Santa Fé; but even -the capture of his papers by the Spaniards at Santa Fé did not serve -to destroy the records of the astute young soldier, who had carefully -concealed duplicates of his papers in the barrel of his big flintlock -rifle, and he was afterward able to restore them to original form. -Major Pike was as tender and humane as he was brave. In the capture of -the party by the Spanish two of the men had to be abandoned and left to -their fate in the hills. They were given a small supply of provisions, -with the assurance that they would be rescued if the rest of the party -found a haven of safety and rest. Major Pike kept this promise and, -more nearly dead than alive, these men were brought into Santa Fé by -the Spanish soldiers. - -Well might it have been of Zebulon Montgomery Pike, in his first eager -march toward this "blue cloud" that beckoned him on and proved to be -a vast mountain peak,--well might it have been this hero that Emerson -thus pictured in the lines: - - "The free winds told him what they knew, - Discoursed of fortune as they blew; - Omens and signs that filled the air - To him authentic witness bear; - The birds brought auguries on their wings, - And carolled undeceiving things - Him to beckon, him to warn; - Well might then the poet scorn - To learn of scribe or courier - Things writ in vaster character; - And on his mind at dawn of day - Soft shadows of the evening lay." - -In his diary, kept during the march from St. Louis, Major Pike thus -pictured his first impressions of Colorado: - - "The scene was one of the most sublime and beautiful inland - prospects ever presented to man; the great lofty mountains, covered - with eternal snow, seemed to surround the luxuriant vale, crowned - with perennial flowers, like a terrestrial paradise." - -The memory of this hero cannot but invest Colorado Springs with a -certain consecration of heroism that becomes, indeed, part of the -"omens and signs" that fill the air. - -In the early autumn of 1906 Colorado Springs and Manitou celebrated the -centenary of the discovery of Pike's Peak with appropriate ceremonies. -One of the interesting features was the rendering of an "Ode" by a -chorus of one thousand voices, of which the words were written by -Charles J. Pike of New York, the well-known sculptor, a great-nephew of -General Pike, and for which the music was composed by Rubin Goldmark. - -One of the noted excursions of the Pike's Peak region is the "Temple -Drive,"--a carriage road beginning in Manitou, traversing Williams -Caņon, and, climbing its west wall. The drive offers near views of -the Temple of Isis, the Cathedral of St. Peter, the Narrows, and -of St. Peter's Gate in the Cathedral Dome. It is fairly a drive in -elfland, and is as distinctive a feature of Colorado Springs life as -is the famous drive from Naples to Amalfi and Sorrento a feature of -the enchantment of Southern Italy. Manitou Park is easily reached by -motor or carriage drive from Colorado Springs through the picturesque -Ute Pass, and aside from its beauty it has an added interest in having -been presented to Colorado College by General William J. Palmer and Dr. -William A. Bell, to be used as the field laboratory of the new Colorado -School of Forestry. Manitou Park contains cottages and recreation -halls, so that all sorts of hospitalities and entertainments can be -there enjoyed. - -[Illustration: WILLIAMS CAŅON, NEAR MANITOU, COLORADO] - -Of the "Garden of the Gods" who can analyze the curious, mystic spell -of the place? A large tract of rolling mesas is covered with these -uncanny monsters of rocks in all weird and grotesque forms. The deep -red sandstone of their formation gives it the aspect, under a midday -sun or the slanting rays of a brilliant sunset, of being all on fire--a -kind of inferno, foreign to earth, and revealed, momentarily, from some -underworld of mystery. - -Cheyenne Caņon is one of the most poetically touched places in all the -Pike's Peak region. Of Cheyenne mountain Helen Hunt Jackson wrote: - - "By easy slope to west, as if it had - No thought, when first its soaring was begun, - Except to look devoutly to the sun, - It rises and has risen, until glad, - With light as with a garment it is clad, - Each dawn before the tardy plains have won - One ray, and after day has long been done - For us the light doth cling reluctant, sad to leave its brow." - -Poets and artists have embodied it in song and essayed to transfer -it to canvas; but the grandeur of South Cheyenne Caņon eludes every -artist while it impresses the imagination of every visitor. It is fitly -approached through the "Pillars of Hercules,"--sheer perpendicular -walls of rock looking up over one thousand feet high, with a -passage-way of only forty feet. Once within the caņon and one might -as well have been translated to Mars so far as utter isolation can be -realized. In the dim green twilight from the lofty wooded cliffs toward -the Seven Falls one enters on "the twilight of the gods," not dark, but -a soft light, the sun shut out, the air vibrating with faint hints of -color, the colossal granite walls rising into the sky, the faint dash -of waterfalls heard splashing over hidden rocks and stones; a rill here -and there trickling down the mountain side; the far call of some lonely -bird heard far away in the upper air; and the soft, mysterious light, -the dim coolness and fragrance, the glimpse of blue sky just seen in -the narrow opening above--was anything ever so enchantingly poetic? -It is here one might well materialize his castle d'Espagne. Winding -up the caņon, one comes to "Seven Falls,"--a torrent of water rushing -down mighty cliffs on one side of a colossal amphitheatre, and the -precipitous cliffs show seven distinct terraces down which the foaming -torrent plunges. - -In North Cheyenne and in Bear Creek Caņons the grandeur is repeated, -and in those the people find a vast free recreation ground. This -privilege is again one of the innumerable ones that are due to the -gifts and grace of General Palmer, who has had this sublime locality -made into a practicable resort, with pavilions where tea, coffee, -lemonade, ices, and sandwiches are served; a rustic hostelry, "Bruin -Inn," is also provided as a place of refuge and entertainment, -providing against any disasters in the sudden storms that are so -frequent in these caņon regions; and the bridle paths, the terraced -drives on the mountain walls, and the glades where games may be played, -all make South Cheyenne the most unique pleasure resort of that of any -city in the United States. - -[Illustration: SEVEN FALLS, CHEYENNE CAŅON, NEAR COLORADO SPRINGS, -COLORADO] - -In all these caņons the massive, precipitous granite walls, which seem -to rise almost to the sky, are also rendered more arresting to the eye -by their richly variegated coloring. These ragged cliffs rise, too, in -pinnacles and towers and domes that proclaim their warfare with the -elements for ages innumerable. Visitors familiar with all the Alpine -gorges and with the Yosemite agree that in no one of these are there -such majesty of effects as in the Cheyenne caņons. - -Manitou, the Indian name for the Great Spirit, is an alluring place in -a nook of the mountains at the foot of Pike's Peak, reminding one of -the Swiss-Alpine villages. Ute Pass; Williams Caņon, in which is the -noted "Cave of the Winds"; the famous "Temple Drive"; Cascade, Green -Mountain Falls and Glen Eyrie are all grouped near Manitou, and it is -here that the cogwheel road ascending Pike's Peak begins. The Mineral -Springs are approached in a pavilion with two or three large rooms; -the auditorium, where an orchestra plays every afternoon, seats some -two hundred people, who can listen to the music, sip their glasses of -mineral water, and chat with friends, all at one and the same time. -There is a foreign air about Manitou. The little town consists of one -street extending along the caņon, following its curves, with a few -cottages perched on terraces above, and the hotels, boarding-houses, -and the little shops, with the hawkers of curios at their street -stands, make up a picturesque spectacle. The shop windows glisten with -jewelry made from the native Colorado stones, the amethyst, opal, -topaz, emerald, tourmaline, and moonstone being found more or less -extensively in this state. The native ores are exposed; Indian wares, -from the bright Navajo rugs and blankets to the pottery, baskets, and -beaded work; photographs and picture cards of all kinds, and trinkets -galore, of almost every conceivable description, give a gala-day -aspect to the little mountain town. The surrounding peaks rise to the -height of six and eight thousand feet above the street, which looks -like a toy set in a region designed for the habitation of the gods. -American life, however, keeps the pace, and in this mountain defile -at the foot of Pike's Peak were the signs out announcing a "Psychic -Palmist," a "Scientific Palmist," and a "Thought Healer," by which it -will be inferred that an up-to-date civilization has by no means failed -to penetrate to Manitou. Each year the accommodations for travellers -multiply themselves. Each summer the demand increases. There is a -fascination about Manitou that throws its spell over every visitor and -sojourner. - -The Grand Caverns are on the side of one of the picturesque mountains, -reached by a drive through the Ute Pass. Beyond Rainbow Falls, and -entering the vestibule of these caverns, the visitor finds himself -under a lofty dome from which stalactites hang, and in which is a pile -of stones being raised to the memory of General Grant, each visitor -adding one. No form of memorial to the great military commander, -whose character was at once so impressive and so simple, could be -more fitting than is this tribute. From the vestibule one wanders to -Alabaster Hall, where there are groups of snow-white columns of pure -alabaster. In a vast space sixty feet high, with a dome of Nature's -chiselling and two galleries that are curiously wrought by natural -forces, there is a natural grand organ, formed of stalactites, with -wonderful reverberations and with a rich, deep tremulous tone. To -reveal its marvels to visitors a skilled musician is employed, who -renders on it popular selections, to the amazement of all who are -present. Another feature of the Grand Caverns is the "jewel casket," -where gems encased in limestone reflect the glow of a lamp. There is -also the "card room," with its columns and its pictorial effects; -the "Lovers' Lane" and the "Bridal Chamber," filled with translucent -formations in all curious shapes and hints of color. - -The marvellous achievements of the engineer in encircling the -mountains with steel tracks on which cars climb to the summit are -seen, in perhaps their most remarkable degree of development in -conquering the problems of mountain engineering in Colorado. Of all -these achievements, one of the most conspicuous triumphs is that known -as the "Short Line" between Colorado Springs and Cripple Creek, a -distance of only forty-five miles, and the time some two and a half -hours; but within these limits is comprised the most unspeakably -sublime panorama of mountain scenery. As the train begins to wind up -the mountains one looks down on the flaming, rose-red splendor of the -Garden of the Gods,--with its uncanny shapes, its domes and curious -formations. Climbing up, the vast plain below--a plain, even though -it is six thousand feet above sea level--looks like a sea of silver. -The railroad crosses Bear Creek Caņon on a narrow iron bridge and -threads its way again on the terraced trunk of the opposite mountain -up to Point Sublime,--a gigantic rock towering on a mountain crest. A -landscape unfolds that rivals Church's wonderful "Heart of the Andes" -in its fascination. Entering South Cheyenne, the beauty and grandeur of -the eastern end of the caņon are seen by following the narrow course -between its rugged granite sides hundreds of feet in height, reaching a -magnificent and most impressive climax at the wonderful Seven Falls. No -visit to the Pike's Peak region can be considered complete without this -trip through South Cheyenne Caņon. - -[Illustration: ST. PETER'S DOME, ON THE CRIPPLE CREEK SHORT LINE] - -The usual feature of the situation as trains circle around the rim -of these caņons is that their beauty is seen from above. A short stroll -and one finds himself between walls towering a thousand feet above his -head. The beauty is all around and above. The tops of the mountains -seem very far away, and lost in clouds. But in the train the situation -is reversed; for, seated in a luxurious observation car of the "Short -Line," the tourist is carried above the peaks and caņon walls, which -from below seem inaccessible in their height, and from this startling -elevation one looks down on an underworld of strange and mysterious -forms. St. Peter's Dome, as it is called, looks down from its towering -height with the national colors flying from its summit,--a huge mass -of granite that seems to stand alone and to guard the secrets of the -depths below. - -[Illustration: APPROACHING DUFFIELD] - -The ascent of St. Peter's Dome is a triumph of engineering skill. As -the train glides along, and glory succeeds to glory, vista to vista, -and caņon to caņon, in ever changing but constant charm, the dizzy -height is climbed apparently with so much ease that the traveller, -absorbed in the entrancing surroundings, reaches the top before he is -aware of it. It seems impossible that the track seen on the opposite -side of the caņon hundreds of feet above should be the path the train -is to follow; but a few turns, almost imperceptible, so smooth is -the roadbed, and one looks down on the place just passed with equal -wonder, and asks if that can be the track by which he has come. As -the train climbs the side or rounds the point of each mountain peak, -the matchless view of the plains is unfolded before the enraptured -gaze. All description is baffled; any attempt to reproduce in words -the glory of that scene is impossible. Every tourist in the Pike's -Peak region regards the "Short Line" trip as the very crown of the -summer's excursions, or, in the local phrase, one whose sublimity of -beauty "bankrupts the English language." These forty-five miles not -only condense within their limits the grandeur one might reasonably -anticipate during a transcontinental journey of three thousand miles, -but as an achievement of mountain engineering, railway experts in both -Europe and America have pronounced it the most substantially built and -the finest equipped mountain railroad in the world. It was opened in -1901, and, quite irrespective of any interest felt in visiting the gold -camps of Cripple Creek, the "Short Line" has become the great excursion -which all visitors to Colorado desire to make for the sublime effects -of the scenery. A prominent civil engineer in Colorado said, in answer -to some question regarding the problem of taking trains over mountain -ranges and peaks that, given the point to start from and the point to -reach, and sufficient capital, there was no difficulty in carrying a -railroad anywhere. The rest is, he said, only a question of time and -skill. The construction of the "Short Line" reveals the achievement -of carrying a railroad around the rims of caņons and over the tops of -mountains rather than that of following a trail through the bottom -of the caņons. As a scenic success this feat is unparalleled. The -bewildering magnificence, the incomparable sublimity, as the train -winds up St. Peter's Dome, are beyond the power of painter or poet -to picture. Leaving Colorado Springs, the tourist sees the strange -towering pinnacles of the Garden of the Gods, in their deep red -contrasting with the green background of trees; Manitou gleams from -its deep caņon; the towers and spires of Colorado Springs appear in -miniature from the far height, and the great expanse of the plateau -looks like the sea. It is difficult to realize that one is still gazing -upon land. The ascent is more like the experience in an aero-car than -in a railroad train, so swift is the upward journey. The first little -station on this route is Point Sublime, where the clouds and the -mountain peaks meet and mingle. North Cheyenne Caņon is seen far below, -and in the distance is fair Broadmoor with its Crescent Lake gleaming -like silver. The Silver Cascade Falls sparkle in the air hundreds of -feet up the crags. At Fair View the North and South Cheyenne Caņons -meet,--those two scenic gorges whose fame is world-wide,--and from one -point the traveller gazes down into each, the bottom depths so remote -as to be invisible. These precipices are wooded, so that the aspect -is that of sheer walls of green. St. Peter's Dome almost pierces the -sky, and as the train finally gains the summit a vista of incomparable -magnificence opens,--of caņons and peaks and towering rocks,--and -through one caņon is seen Pueblo, over fifty miles distant, but swept -up in nearer vision with a mirage-like effect in the air. It is a view -that might well enchain one. The Spanish Peaks cut the sky far away on -the horizon, and the beautiful range of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains -offers a view of wonderful beauty. The road passes Duffields, Summit, -Rosemont, and Cathedral Park, at each of which stations a house or -two, or a few tents, may be seen,--the homes of workmen or of summer -dwellers who find the most romantic and picturesque corners of the -universe none too good in which to set up their household gods for -the midsummer days. Nothing is more feasible than to live high up in -the mountains along the "Short Line." The two trains a day bring the -mails; all marketing and merchandise are easily procured; and the -air, the views, the marvellous spectacle of sunrise and sunset, the -perpetually changing panorama, simply make life a high festival. The -little station of Rosemont is a natural park, surrounded by three -towering peaks,--Mount Rosa, Big Chief, and San Luis. Clyde is a point -much frequented by picnickers. The "Cathedral Park" is an impressive -example of what the forces of nature can accomplish. Colossal rocks, -chiselled by erosion, twisted by tempests, worn by the storms of -innumerable ages, loom up in all conceivable shapes. They are of the -same order as some of the wonderful groups of rocks seen in the -Grand Caņon. Towers and arches and temples and shafts have been created -by Nature's irresistable forces, and to the strange fantastic form -is added color,--the same rich and varied hues that render the Grand -Caņon so wonderful in its color effects. This "Cathedral Park" is a -great pleasure resort for celebrations and picnics, both from Colorado -Springs, Colorado City, Broadmoor, and other places from below, and -also from Cripple Creek, Victor, and other towns in Cripple Creek -District. - -[Illustration: PORTLAND AND INDEPENDENCE MINES, VICTOR, COLORADO] - -The district of Cripple Creek includes a number of towns,--Victor, -Anaconda, Eclipse, Santa Rita, Goldfield, Independence, and others, -each centred about famous and productive mines. The first discovery -of gold here was made in 1891 by a ranchman, Mr. Womack, who took the -specimens of gold ore that he found to some scientific men in Colorado -Springs, who pronounced it the genuine thing, and capitalists became -interested to develop the mines. In 1891, the first year, the total -value of the gold produced was $200,000; 1905, the fourteenth year, the -value of the production was $47,630,107. The total value of the gold -produced in the fourteen years of the camp's existence, to December 31, -1905, was $141,395,087. - -There are about three hundred properties in the camp which produce -with more or less regularity. Of this number the greatest proportion -are spasmodic shippers, making their production from the efforts of -leasers. There are thirty large mines in the district, each producing -$100,000 or more annually. Dividends paid by the mining companies in -1905 amounted to $1,707,000. Total dividends paid to December 31, -1905, $32,742,000. There are employed on an average some six thousand -three hundred men in the mines, and the monthly pay-roll runs to about -$652,189, exclusive of large salaries paid mine superintendents and -managers and clerks in offices. The lowest wage paid in the camp is -three dollars per day of eight hours, while many of the miners receive -more than that. The average wage per day paid for labor amounts to -$3.44. There are twelve towns in the district, with a population of -fifty thousand people. During the period of excitement the population -was about seventy thousand. The social life of the people is much the -same as in other towns. - -There is a free school system, with an enrolment of nearly four -thousand pupils, with a hundred and eighteen teachers under a -superintendent with an assistant. There are thirty-four churches, -representing almost every variety of faith. - -Cripple Creek, the largest of these, lies in a hollow of the mountains, -whose surrounding ranges are a thousand feet above the town. It -consists mostly of one long street, with minor cross-streets, and there -are little shops with chiffons, "smart" ribbons and laces, and all -sorts of articles of dress making gay the show windows, and one sees -women and children in all their pretty and stylish summer attire. There -are two daily papers and an "opera house." Cripple Creek is a rather -favorite point with dramatic companies, as the entire town, the entire -district, turns out, and the audiences do not lack in either enthusiasm -or numbers. - -[Illustration: VIEW FROM BULL HILL, RICHEST GULCH IN THE WORLD] - -Mr. William Caruthers, the district superintendent, estimates that -this region has become one of the greatest gold-producing regions in -the world; and in rapid development, and in the richness of its ores, -nothing like it has ever been known before. In fifteen years the cattle -ranges have been transformed into a populous district with fifty -thousand people, and with all the modern conveniences of Eastern cities. - -The electric trolley system connects all the towns in Cripple Creek -district and passes near all the large mines. This trolley line is -owned and controlled by the "Short Line," and is greatly sought for -pleasure excursions both by visitors and residents. - -Electric cars convey the miners up and down the hills to their -respective mines. The class of laborers is said to be greatly improved -of late years, and Mr. Caruthers informs the questioner that no -problematic characters are longer tolerated in Cripple Creek. It -has ceased to be the paradise of those who, for various unspecified -personal reasons, were unable to keep their residence in other cities, -or had left their own particular country for their country's good. -When such characters appear, Mr. Caruthers and his staff guide them -with unerring certainty to the railroad track, with the assurance that -these intruders are wanted in Colorado Springs, and that, although -there may be no parlor-car train, with all luxuries warranted, leaving -at that moment for their migrating convenience, yet the steel track is -before them, and it leads directly to Pike's Peak Avenue (the leading -business street of Colorado Springs), and they are advised at once to -fare forth on this mountain thoroughfare. The persuasion given by Mr. -Caruthers and his assistants is of such an order that it is usually -accepted without remonstrance, and the objectionable specimens of -humanity realize that their climb of several thousand feet up to the -famous gold camps was by way of being a superfluous expenditure of -energy on their part. - -The special entertainment in Cripple Creek is to make the electric -circle tour, on electric trolley cars, between Cripple Creek and -Victor, going on the "low line" one way, and the "high line" the other. -The high line is almost even with the summit of Pike's Peak, that -looms up within neighborly distance, and the splendor of the Sangre de -Cristo range adds a bewildering beauty to the matchless panorama. On -this round trip--a trolley ride probably not equalled in the entire -world--one gets quite near many of the famous mines, whose machinery -offers a curious feature in the landscape. - -Taking the trip in the late brilliant afternoon sunshine along this -mountain crest, offers the spectacle of an entire landscape all in a -deep rose-pink, gleaming, in contrast with the dark green of the cedar -forests, like a transformation scene on a stage. - -The tourist who regards this life as a probationary period, to -be employed, as largely as possible, in festas and entertaining -experiences, may add a unique one to his repertoire, should he be so -favored by the gods; and sojourning in neighborly proximity to the -"Garden of the Gods," why should they not bestir themselves in his -favor? At all events, if he has contrived to invoke their interest, and -finds himself invited by Mr. MacWatters (the courteous and vigilant -General Passenger Agent of the "Short Line") to make the return journey -from Cripple Creek, down below the clouds to Colorado Springs in a -hand car, he will enjoy an experience to be treasured forever. For the -hand car runs down of its own accord, by the law of gravitation, and -is provided with an air-brake to regulate its momentum. To complete -the enchantment of conditions,--and it need not be said that in a -Land of Enchantment conditions conform to the prevailing spirit and -of course are enchanting,--to complete these, let it be a _partie -carrée_, with Mrs. MacWatters, and with Ellis Meredith, the well-known -Colorado author, to make up the number; for the keenest political -writer in Colorado is a woman, and this woman is Ellis Meredith. It -is a name partly real, partly a literary _nom-de-plume_, and which -is the one and the other need not be chronicled here. The name of -Ellis Meredith has flown widely on the wings of fame as the author of -a most interesting story, "The Master-Knot of Human Fate," which made -an unusual impression on critical readers. "The Master-Knot" is an -imaginative romance, whose scene is laid on one of the peaks of the -Rocky Mountains. It presupposes an extraordinary if not an impossible -situation, and on this builds up a story, brilliant, thoughtful, -tantalizing in its undercurrent of suggestive interest, and altogether -unique. - -[Illustration: THE DEVIL'S SLIDE, CRIPPLE CREEK SHORT LINE] - -In her connection with a leading Denver journal Miss Meredith wields -a trenchant pen, and one reading these strong and able articles could -hardly realize that the same writer is the author of poems,--delicate, -exquisite, tender,--and of prose romance which is increasingly sought -by all lovers of the art of fiction. With such a party of friends as -these, what words can interpret the necromancy of this sunset journey -winding down the heights of majestic mountains, amid a forest of -towering peaks, and colossal rocks looming up like giant spectres -through the early twilight that gathers when the sun sinks behind some -lofty pinnacle! The rose of afterglow burned in the east, reflecting -its color over the Cheyenne caņons, and even changing the granite -precipice of the "Devil's Slide"--a thousand feet of precipitous -rock, through which the steel track is cut--with a reflection of its -rose and amber. Cathedral Park took on a new majesty in the deepening -haze. At the foot of one of its tall spires is an ice cavern, which -holds its perpetual supply all summer. The solid roadbed, uniformly -ballasted with disintegrated granite, built on solid rock for its -entire extent, and totally devoid of dust, gives to the hand car the -ease and smoothness of a motor on level ground. No one can wonder -that this road, built originally to convey coal and other supplies -to Cripple Creek, and to bring the ore from the mines to the mills -and smelters (a transportation it serves daily), has also, by its -phenomenal fascinations, achieved a great passenger traffic made up of -the tourists and visitors to Colorado. Even travellers going through to -the Pacific Coast make the detour from La Junta to Colorado Springs to -enjoy the "Short Line," just as they go from Williams to Bright Angel -Trail for the Grand Caņon. With this aërial journey through a sunset -fairyland, where the mysterious caņons and gorges lay in shadow and the -Colorado sunshine painted pinnacles and towers in liquid gold, what -wonder that our poet, discovering her lyre, offered the following "Ode" -to the "Short Line": - - "There's the splendor that was Grecian; - There's the glory that was Rome; - But we know a brighter splendor, - And we find it here at home. - Not the Alps or Himalayas, - Not old Neptune's foaming brine, - Can surpass the wealth of beauty - Of this state of yours and mine. - - "All the fairy-tales and legends - Of the time that's passed away; - All the scientific wonders - That amaze the world to-day; - All the artist can imagine, - All the engineer design, - Are excelled in magic beauty - On the Cripple Creek Short Line. - - "Oh, those mountains pierce the heavens - Till its radiance glistens through, - And the clouds in golden glory - Float across its field of blue; - And the soul that may be weary - Feels the harmony divine - Of this wonder-tour of Nature - On the Cripple Creek Short Line. - - "There are minarets and towers; - There are stately domes and fair; - There are lordly, snow-capped mountains, - There are lovely valleys there; - And no ancient moated castle, - Frowning down upon the Rhine, - Looks on scenes of greater beauty - Than the Cripple Creek Short Line. - - "There's a vision and a grandeur - When the plains come into view, - And one seems to see the ocean - In the misty rim of blue; - And the eyes of landlocked sailors - With unbidden teardrops shine, - As they see the far-off billows - From the Cripple Creek Short Line. - - "There's a strength and there's a refuge - In the everlasting hills; - There's a gleam of joy and gladness - In the leaping sparkling rills; - There's a benediction sweeter - Than the murmur of the pine, - And it falls on all who travel - O'er the Cripple Creek Short Line." - -[Illustration: COLORADO SPRINGS AND TUNNEL NO. 6, CRIPPLE CREEK SHORT -LINE] - -Ellis Meredith has often pictured in song the charm and romance of -Colorado with the vividness and power that characterize her poems which -are essentially those of insight and imagination; but in the opinion of -many of her admirers she has hardly laid at the shrine of the muses any -more felicitous votive offering than this little impromptu. - -A summer in Colorado Springs is one that is set in the heart of -fascinating attractions. Nor is the Pike's Peak region a summer land -alone, for the autumn is even more beautiful, and the winters are all -crystal and sunshine and full of exquisite exhilaration and delight in -mountain regions that take on new forms of interest. Colorado Springs -is not merely--nor even mostly--an excursion city for pleasure-seekers; -it is a city of permanent homes, whose residential advantages attract -and create its phenomenal growth. - -To open one's eyes on the purple line of the Rocky Mountains, with -Pike's Peak towering into the sky, in a luminous crystal air that makes -even existence a delight, is an alluring experience. To look over -the beautiful city of Colorado Springs, with its broad streets and -boulevards, and lines of trees on either side; its electric lights, -electric cars, well-built brick blocks, churches, schools, and free -public library; its interesting and enterprising journalism; to come -in contact with the intelligence and refinement of the people,--is to -realize that this is no provincial Western town, but instead, a gay and -fashionable city, with the aspect of a summer watering place. Manitou, -which lies six miles away at the very base of Pike's Peak, and Colorado -Springs are connected by electric cars running along the mountain -line, and there is a great social interchange. It is simply a whirl of -social life in the late summer, and the rapidity with which the guest -is expected to flit from one garden party, and tea, and reception to -another, within a given time, reminds him of a London season. In the -morning every fashionable woman drives to Prospect Lake, and from her -bathing in its blue waters to the informal "hop" at night, she is on a -perpetual round of gayety if she so desire. - -The wide range and freedom of life in Colorado Springs is equally -enjoyable. The artist, the thinker, the writer, finds an ideal -environment in which to pursue his work. This beautiful residence -city, founded by General Palmer in 1871, has now a population of some -thirty thousand, and although lying at the foot of Pike's Peak, it is -yet on an elevation of six thousand feet above the level of the sea. -Adjoining Colorado Springs is Colorado City, a manufacturing town -of five thousand inhabitants, and Manitou, the little town at the -immediate base of Pike's Peak, with some two thousand residents, to -which, in the summer, is added an equal number of visitors, who bestow -themselves in the attractive hotels and boarding-houses or who occupy -cottages or camps in the foothills. Colorado Springs was founded in a -wise and beneficent spirit. Every deed in the town contains a clause -prohibiting the sale of intoxicating liquors, and by the terms of the -contract any violation of this agreement renders the deed null and void -and the property reverts to the city. Education is made compulsory, -and on this basis of temperance, education, and morality the town -is founded. It is laid out with generous ideas and with unfailing -allegiance to municipal ideals of taste. The avenues are one hundred -and forty feet wide and the streets are all one hundred feet wide. -Lying midway between Denver and Pueblo, the two largest cities of the -state, Colorado Springs is within two hours of the former and one hour -of the latter. - -Colorado College, a co-educational institution, is largely endowed, -and it has from eight to nine hundred students. Rev. Samuel A. Eliot, -D.D., of Boston, the president of the Unitarian Association, was -invited to deliver the Commencement Address at this college in 1905, -and on this occasion Dr. Eliot said: - - "Nothing can surpass the academic dignity of a commencement at a - Western State University. The perfection of the discipline would - make our elegant, but often distressed, 'master of ceremonies' at - Harvard green with envy. At our Eastern Colleges there are still - individual idiosyncrasies and perverse prejudices and traditions - of simpler days to be considered. There are some old-fashioned - members of the faculty who just won't wear the academic gown or - the appropriately colored hood, and there are always some reckless - seniors who will wear tan shoes or a straw hat. Not so in Kansas - and Colorado, in Iowa and Nebraska. There every professor and every - senior wears his uniform as if he were used to it; each one knows - his place and his part and performs it impressively. The academic - procession, headed by the regents in their gowns and followed by - the members of the various faculties with their characteristic - hoods and stripes, and by the senior classes of the college and the - various professional schools, is perfect in its orderly procedure, - and the commencement exercises themselves are carried through with - a solemnity which is sometimes awesome. I caught myself almost - wishing that some senior would forget to take off his Oxford cap - at the proper time or trip on his gown as he came up the steps of - the platform to get his sheepskin, but no such accident marred the - impressiveness of the occasion." - -Dr. Eliot playfully touches a fact in the social as well as in the -academic life of the West in these remarks. The informalities so -frequently experienced in recognized social life in the Eastern cities -are seldom encountered in the corresponding circles of life in the -West, all observance of times and seasons, as calling hours, ceremonial -invitations, and driving being quite strictly relegated to their -true place in the annals of etiquette. In his Commencement address -before Colorado College in 1905 Dr. Eliot said, regarding the several -educational schools of Colorado: - - "Thus in Colorado the State University is at Boulder, the - Agricultural College at Fort Collins, the Normal School at Greeley, - the School of Mines at Golden, and so on. The result is not only - an injudicious diffusion of energy, but real waste and sometimes - deplorable rivalry. Doubtless it is now too late to rectify this - mistake. Provincial jealousies and a sense of local ownership are - too strong to permit of desirable concentration, and these states - are probably permanently burdened with the necessity of sustaining - half a dozen institutions which must often duplicate equipment and - courses of instruction." - -Leading authorities in the Centennial State do not wholly agree with -this view. The distribution of an educational centre in one city and -part of the state and another in a different part, contributes to the -building up of different cities and to a certain concentration on the -part of the students on the special subjects pursued. President Slocum -of Colorado College, President Baker of the State University, President -Snyder of the State Normal College in Greeley, with other college -presidents and their colleagues and faculties, are devoting their lives -to the interests of higher education in its broadest and most complete -sense; and with their own splendid equipments in learning, their -patience and ability in research, their zeal for teaching, and their -intense interest in the problems of university life in a new state, -they are making a record of the most impressive quality. They are the -great pathfinders of the educational future. - -Colorado has the advantage of a larger percentage of American -population than any other of the Western inland states, there being -only twenty per cent of foreign admixture in the entire six hundred and -fifty thousand people,--a fact that is especially to be considered in -educational progress. - -The high school building in Colorado Springs; the court house, costing -a half-million dollars; the new city library of Colorado stone; the -thirty-five miles of electric railway; a water system costing over a -million of dollars; the admirable telephone system,--these and the fine -architectural art would render it a desirable residence city even aside -from the group of scenic wonders which has made it famous all over the -world. - -General William J. Palmer, the founder of Colorado Springs, is one of -the great benefactors of the state of Colorado. "General Palmer has -always been a builder for the future," says a local authority. "His -remarkable foresight was best exemplified in the construction of the -Rio Grande railroad,--the road which made Colorado famous. Colorado -Springs is another monument to his prophetic vision. With an ample -fortune he has retired from business life, but is busier than ever with -his many philanthropies, all of which have an eye to the future. - -"At great expense he has abolished Bear Creek toll-gate, and has -constructed a wonderful carriage road through this beautiful caņon, and -will give it to the people as a permanent blessing." - -This Bear Creek Caņon lies north of Cheyenne Caņon--about five miles -from Colorado Springs. The road winds back and forth in a zigzag -elevation, with new vistas of enchantment at every turn,--towering -mountains, the Garden of the Gods,--that strange, weird spectacle, St. -Peter's Dome, Phantom Falls, Silver Cascade, Helen Hunt Falls, and -other points of romantic beauty. - -Colorado Springs has a great park system at a cost already of three -hundred thousand dollars, and with the buildings and other features -projected the cost will be hardly less than half a million. There are -to be floral gardens, an Italian sunken basin with a fountain rising -in streams, after the fashion of the fountains of Versailles,--and an -art gallery is soon to be added to this lovely and enterprising city. -Already the city has Palmer Park,--comprising eight hundred acres, -donated by the generous and beneficent General Palmer,--a park that -contains Austin's Bluffs, from which a magnificent view is obtained. - -It is to General Palmer that all the charming extension of terraced -drives and walks in North Cheyenne Caņon is due,--the road often -terraced on the side of the mountain; and here and there little -refreshment stands, where a sandwich, a glass of lemonade, a cup of -tea may be had, are found in these wild altitudes. In Palmer Park -one portion has been appropriately named Statuary Park, from the -multitude of strange forms and figures that Nature has chiselled in -the sandstone. Gray's Peak, like a dim shadow on the far horizon to -the north, and the faint, beautiful outline of the Spanish Peaks to -the south, are seen from this park, while the massive portals of the -"Garden of the Gods" in their burning red are near, and at one side the -rose pink rocks of Blair Athol. - -General Palmer's residence in Glen Eyrie is one of the poetic places -of the world. The romantic environment of mountain caņons, towers, -and domes of the fantastic sandstone shapes, and overhanging rocks -that loom up thousands of feet on a mountain side, impart a wild charm -that no words can picture. The architectural effects have been kept in -artistic correspondence with the romantic scenery. - -Monument Valley Park is the latest of General Palmer's munificent gifts -to Colorado Springs. It was a tract of low waste land some two miles -in length and covering an area of two hundred or more acres, but its -transformation into the present beautiful park is the realization of -an Aladdin's dream. An artistic stone drinking-fountain; a wide vista -of trees relieved by a low Italian basin with fountains; Monument -Creek, made to be sixty feet wide between its banks; the creation of -artificial lakes; and there are included in the scheme conservatories, -rustic pavilions, and botanical gardens. This park is one of the most -extensive improvements in decorative effect, that is known in any city. - -Monument Park is distinctive from Monument Valley Park, the former -lying some ten miles from the city, and it is picturesque beyond words. - -The "Garden of the Gods" has achieved world-wide fame. The "Gateway," -the "Cathedral Spires," "Balanced Rock," and other singular formations -fascinate the visitor and draw him back again and again. A local writer -thus describes the majestic "Gateway": - - "Two immense slabs of red sandstone, soft and beautiful in their - coloring, tower over three hundred feet high on either side and - seem to challenge the right of the stranger to enter the sacred - portals. Napoleon, at the Pyramids, sought to impress his soldiers - with the thought that from that eminence four thousand years - looked down upon them. But from here geological ages of untold - length look down upon the beholder. In close proximity may be - found limestone, gypsum, white sandstone, and red sandstone, - each representing a different geological era, and each, in all - probability, representing millions of years in its formation." - -The "Garden of the Gods" represents one of those inexplicable epochs -of Nature's creations as does, only in a more marvellous degree, -the Grand Caņon and the Petrified Forest. A scientist says of these -grotesque shapes that "their strangely garish colors, red and yellow -and white, in enormous masses, lofty buttresses, towers and pinnacles, -besides formations of lesser size, in fantastic shapes, that readily -lend themselves to the imagination, are sedimentary strata, which once -lay horizontally upon the mountain's breast, but that some gigantic -convulsion of nature threw them into their present perpendicular -attitude, with their roots, as it were, extending hundreds of feet -underground. The erosion of water, when this was all the Gulf of -Mexico, accounts for the shaping. - -"The gateway to the Garden is really the grandest feature, rising -perpendicularly on either side twice the height of Niagara, and framing -in rich terra cotta a most entrancing picture of the blue and tawny -peak, apparently only a little way on the other side." - -[Illustration: GATEWAY OF THE GARDEN OF THE GODS, COLORADO SPRINGS, -COLORADO] - -[Illustration: CATHEDRAL SPIRES, GARDEN OF THE GODS, COLORADO SPRINGS, -COLORADO] - -Any writer on Colorado Springs is embarrassed by the fact that the -great founder and benefactor of the city has requested that his name -is not to be recorded in connection with his great and constant gifts -to the municipality; and while it is far from the desire of any one -to disregard the expressed wish of a man whose modesty is as great as -is his munificent generosity, it is yet impossible to tell the story -of Colorado Springs without perpetual references to her distinguished -citizen, her great and noble benefactor and founder. It is not too -much to say that there is probably not, in the history of the United -States, all instance parallel to the story of General Palmer and -Colorado Springs. Yet beyond this bare mention, in which one even thus -records that which General Palmer has wished to have had left without -reference, one is under bonds not to go. The Recording Angel may not -be so plastic to the expressed preferences of the wise founder and the -munificent benefactor of the charming city; and the vast and generous -gifts, the noble character of the citizen whose life and example is -the most priceless legacy that he could bequeath to Colorado Springs, -however priceless are his long series of gifts,--these are inevitably -inscribed in that eternal record not made with hands, on whose pages -must ever remain, in shining letters, the honored name of General -William J. Palmer, whose energy and whose lofty spirit have invested -this beautiful centre of the picturesque region of Pike's Peak with the -spell of an enchanted city lying fair in a Land of Enchantment. - - - - -CHAPTER IV - -SUMMER WANDERINGS IN COLORADO - - "_God only knows how Saadi dined; - Roses he ate and drank the wind._" - - EMERSON - - -Deep in the heart of the Rocky Mountains lies Glenwood Springs, a -fashionable watering place, where a great hotel, bearing the name of -the Centennial State, with every pretty decorative device imaginable, -allures the summer idlers, and where various kinds of springs and -baths furnish excuse for occupation. All varieties of invalidism, -real or fancied, meet their appropriate cure. One lady declared that -the especial elixir of life was found in a hot cave that yawns its -cavernous and mysterious depths in an adjacent mountain. Another -continued to thrive on (or in) the sparkling waters of "the pool," -which is, for the most part, a dream of fair women, relay after relay, -all day and evening, swimming about after the fashion of the Rhine -sisters; and those who do not take kindly to the pool or the dark and -"hot" cave fall upon some particular geyser and appropriate it for -their own. Woe to the woman who interferes with another woman's geyser! -The whole region around Glenwood Springs is phenomenal. A hot sulphur -spring boils up at the rate of twenty thousand gallons a minute. The -"pool"--where the Rhine maidens are forever floating, morning, noon, -and night--covers over an acre, and is from three to six or seven feet -deep. Two currents of water are constantly pouring into it,--the hot -(at one hundred and twenty-seven degrees) at a rate of ten thousand -gallons a minute, and the cold from a mountain stream. A stream -constantly runs from it, a part of which is utilized as a waterfall in -the centre of the large dining-room of the hotel. On one bank of this -pool is a colossal stone bathhouse (costing over one hundred thousand -dollars), where every conceivable variety of the bath is administered, -and from which "the pool" is entered. In warm evenings, when the full -midsummer moon peeps over the mountains, the groups of girls, one after -another, begin mysteriously to disappear, and in reply to a question as -to the destination of this evening pilgrimage one bewitching creature -in floating blue organdie, as she flitted past, laughingly answered, -"Come to the pool and see." There was no time to be lost. The moon in -silver splendor was climbing over the mountains, and the girls emerged -from their dainty evening gowns to array themselves in bathing suits. -A few minutes later they were to be seen at this mysterious trysting -place at "the pool," the only difference being that some were outside -and some inside. Surely those inside had the best of it. How can the -scene be pictured? From the broad piazza of the hotel a terraced -walk ran down through the greenest of lawns, with shade trees and a -fountain resplendent in colored electric lights. The pool lies in an -open glade. Not far away is one of the ranges of the Rocky Mountains, -over which the August moon was climbing. Tall electric lights mingled -with the moonlight, giving the most curious effects of chiaroscuro -through the glade and the defiles of the mountains. On one side of this -immense natatorium rose the vast stone bathhouse,--a beautiful piece of -architecture. Near by the round sulphur spring boiled and bubbled in a -way to suggest the witches' rhyme: - - "Double, double toil and trouble; - Fire, burn; and, cauldron, bubble." - -A high toboggan slide in one place descended into the pool, and was -much used by the young athletes,--the men, not the girls. In the pool -a natural fountain of cold water shot high in the air. The swimmers -abounded. Those who were unable to swim would cling to a floating -ladder. Here in the moonlight the girls--clinging two and three -together--circle around in the water, needing only the melody of the -Rhine sisters to complete the illusion of one of the most enchanting -scenes in the entire Wagner operas. - -Rev. Frederick Campbell wrote of this unique place: - - "There is but one word to utter at Glenwood Springs--'Wonderful!' - If one enjoys life at the most luxurious of hotels, here it is at - Hotel Colorado. Built in the Italian style of peach-blow sandstone - and light brick, lighted with electricity, a searchlight reaching - from one of its towers at night and lighting the train up the - valley, a powerful fountain supplied from the mountain stream up - the caņon pouring the geyser 170 feet straight in the air, and - views, views everywhere." - -The hot cave is as wonderful as anything around Sorrento or Amalfi. -In fact, all Colorado reminds the traveller of Italian scenery. It -has been called the Switzerland of America, but it is far more the -Italy. It has the Italian sky, the Italian coloring, and the mysterious -and indefinable enchantment of that land of romance and dream. The -volcanic phenomena is often startlingly similar to that of Italy. This -hot cave at Glenwood Springs is of the same order as those on Capri -and the adjacent coasts of Italy. In this cave at Glenwood hot air -continually comes up from some unknown region, and it is utilized for -curative purposes. The two or three caves have been made into one, -a cement floor laid, and marble seats with marble backs put in (the -ancient Romans would have found this a Paradise). Here come--not the -halt or the blind, but the people who take "the cure." The process -is to sit on the marble seat with a linen bag drawn completely over -the entire form, with a hole for the head to emerge. Around the neck -is placed a towel wrung out of cold water. To see a cave filled with -these modern mummies, sitting solemnly, done up in their linen cases, -like upholstery covering, is a spectacle. The men go in the morning, -the women in the afternoon. One lady obligingly gave the data of her -"cure." Twice a week she migrated in negligée to the hot cave, and -sat done up in her linen covering, bathing in the hot air at one -hundred and twenty degrees or so. Other afternoons were devoted to the -hot sulphur water bathing, and what with the various gradations of -temperature and the work of the attendants, the cup of Turkish coffee -and the siesta, the process consumed the entire afternoon. It is bliss -to those who delight in being rolled up like a mummy and sitting still. -But if it were chasing a star that danced, if it were riding on a -moonbeam, if it were dancing with the daffodils,--if it were anything -in all the world that was motion,--then it might have some fairer title -to charm. The felicity of lying about in a state of inertia is in the -nature of a mystery. And one questions, too, whether the spring of life -is not, after all, within rather than without. Let one take care of -his mental life and the physical will, very largely at least, keep in -spring and tune without elaborate and expensive processes of propping -it up. To disport one's self in the pool,--there is a delight. Who -wouldn't be a Rhine maiden under the midsummer moon in the heart of the -Rocky Mountains? - -[Illustration: THE WALLS OF THE CAŅON, GRAND RIVER] - -In nearly all the caņons and caves of this surrounding region are found -traces of the prehistoric peoples who inhabited them. Fragments of -pottery, in artistic design and painted in bright colors, are numerous; -relics similar to those found in the cliff houses are not unfrequently -chanced upon in walks and excursions and the stone implements abound. -The ethnologist finds a great field for research in all this Glenwood -Springs country. There are carriage roads terraced along the base of -the mountains where drives from five to twenty miles can be enjoyed -in the deep ravines where only a glimpse of blue sky is seen above, -and the saunterer finds a new walk every day. The mountains branch off -in every direction, and the lofty peaks silhouette themselves against -the sky. It is like being whirled up into the air. The sensation is -exhilarating beyond words. If people could take "cures" getting up into -sublime altitudes like this, where the views are so heavenly that one -does not know where earth ends and Paradise begins,--that would be a -cure worth the name. Really, it is vitality and exhilaration that one -wants, and it is to be found in the air far more than in any other -element. - - "'Tis life whereof our nerves are scant; - 'Tis life, not death, for which we pant, - More life and fuller that I want." - -The Denver and Rio Grande Railway is well called "the scenic line of -the world." From Denver to Pueblo it runs almost due south, across a -level valley, with perpetually enchanting views of the mountains and -curious rock formations, between Denver to the region below Colorado -Springs. From the great smelting city of Pueblo, "the Pittsburg of the -West," the road turns westward, on an upward grade, till it reaches -Caņon City, and from there to Glenwood Springs this road is a marvel of -civil engineering. Up the narrow, deep caņons of Grand River, through -the towering granite cliffs, it winds, on and up, passing Holy Cross -Mountain, offering at every turn new vistas of sublime and wonderful -beauty. To take a day's ride through such scenery, with the luxurious -comfort of the most modern Pullman cars, and a good dining-car -constantly with the train, is to enjoy a day that lives in memory. Not -the least of the attractions of Glenwood Springs is the enchanting -route by means of which one arrives in this picturesque region. As the -train climbs up to plateau after plateau in the mountains the scenes -are full of changeful enchantment. The formation is interesting,--a -deep caņon, with rock cliffs apparently towering into the sky, and then -the emerging on a great level plateau. All along this route, too, are -those wonderful sandstone formations that have made the "Garden of the -Gods" so marvellous a place. Between Caņon City and Glenwood Springs -the very dance of the Brocken is seen in Sandstone sculptures. - -[Illustration: THE "FAIRY CAVES," COLORADO] - -Near the summit of Iron Mountain, which is in the immediate vicinity, -the "Fairy Caves" rival the famous "Blue Grotto" of Capri in -attraction. These caves (less than a mile from the Hotel Colorado) -are a most intricate and wonderful series of subterranean caverns, -grottos, and labyrinths, with translucent stalactites and stalagmites, -and they are all lighted by electricity,--a great improvement on the -sibyls' cave, where the sibylline leaves were read. The oracles of that -time were sadly lacking in conditions of modern conveniences. The sibyl -had not even a telephone. We do things better now, and run electric -cars up to the Pyramids. Nor did the sibyl of old have a tunnel two -hundred feet long, by which her votaries could approach the scene of -her oracles; but visitors to the Fairy Caves may pass by means of -this tunnel to one of the grandest and most awful precipices in the -Rocky Mountains, where they step out upon a balcony of stone into the -open air, with a perpendicular wall of rock one hundred feet high, -above, and an almost perpendicular abyss, down, twelve hundred feet -below. Standing on this balcony, nothing can be seen behind but sheer -perpendicular ascent and descent of rock; but in front and far below -may be seen the Grand River, appearing as a brook, winding in and out -among the projecting mountains, visible here like burnished silver, and -lost there, only to reappear again at a point far distant. - -At this high elevation the opening of the caņon of the Grand is seen -in all of its majesty,--the massive mountains projecting against each -other in their outlines, and the lofty peaks reaching to the skies. The -Denver and Rio Grande Railway is at the foot of the caņon,--a mere -winding line, as seen from this Titanic height. - -The Colorado Midland Road also runs through Glenwood Springs, whose -phenomenal hot caves and luxurious and elaborate bathhouse have given -it European fame. The twin towers of the hotel remind one of Notre -Dame, and the views from these are beautiful. The design is after the -Villa Medici in Rome,--the same motive repeated for the central motive -of this superb Hotel Colorado with its towers and Italian loggias and -splendid spacious piazzas, and its searchlight from one of the towers, -illuminating the evening trains that pass in the deep caņon of Grand -River. Here is a region that might be that of Sorrento and Capri. - -In Glenwood Springs the traveller may meet Mrs. Emma Homan Thayer, the -author of "Wild Flowers in Colorado," published in both London and New -York. Mrs. Thayer was a New York girl, one of the original founders -of the Art League, and the daughter of an enterprising and well-known -man. She is an artist by nature and grace,--sketches, paints, and -writes, and in both painting and literature she has made a name that is -recognized, and she has charmingly perpetuated in her book the unique -and wonderful procession of Colorado wild flowers. - -[Illustration: MARSHALL PASS AND MT. OURAY, COLORADO] - -Lookout Mountain, rising some twenty-five hundred feet above the -town, has an easy trail to its summit; the driving is picturesque -and safe on terraced mountain roads with perpetual vistas of beauty, -and many lakes in the vicinity--Mountain, Big Fish, Trappers' Lake, -and others--offer excellent fishing. The hotel grounds at night are -transformed into a veritable fairyland. The fountains shoot their -jets of water up hundreds of feet into the air, with a play of color -from electric lights thrown over them until they are all a changeful -iridescent dream of rose and emerald and gold mingled with blue,--the -very rainbows of heaven reproduced in mid-air. - -The journey up the "scenic route" has one point especially--that at the -base of the Holy Cross Mountain where the train climbs from plateau -to plateau--that enchants the imagination. The vast mysterious caņons -lie far below, steeped in the twilight of the gods. The air shimmers -with faint hints of color. Above, the towering granite walls seem to -cut their way into the sky. The faint plash of a thousand waterfalls -echoes from the rocky precipices, and the faint call of some lonely -bird hovering over a pinnacle is heard. The mysterious light, the -dim coolness and fragrance, the glimpses of blue sky seen through -the narrow openings of the caņons above all, combine to produce that -enchantment--the "Encantada,"--that Vasquez de Coronado felt when he -first beheld this marvellous country. - -Emerson asserts that life is a search after power,-- - - "Merlin's blows are strokes of fate." - -It is apparently a twentieth-century Merlin who has dreamed a dream of -wresting electricity from the mountain currents to utilize as power to -create a new field for industrial energy. The electrical engineer, who -is the magician of contemporary life, demonstrates that not the volume -of a stream, but rather its "fall," is the measure of its possibilities -of power, and no country is so rich in water that comes tumbling down -from the heights as is Colorado. The wild streams that precipitate -themselves down the mountain-sides are as valuable as are the veins of -gold that permeate the mountain. Science has now taken them in hand, -and will not longer permit these torrents and waterfalls to run to -waste or to display themselves exclusively as decorative features of -the mountain landscapes. The General Electric Company is utilizing -these falling waters, and is already achieving results with their -transformation into power which are beyond the dreams of imagination. -The Silver Cascade, which for ages has had nothing to do but leap and -flash under the shimmering gold of the Colorado sunshine, suddenly -undergoes - - "a sea change - Into something new and strange." - -It becomes an important factor in the world's work. For instance, in -lovely Manitou,--the little town that dreams at the foot of Pike's -Peak and which seems made only for stars and sunsets and as the stage -setting of idyllic experiences,--in lovely Manitou an hydro-electric -plant has been for more than a year in successful operation; and an -opportunity is thereby afforded the interested observer to see the -practical working of an enterprise that draws its energy directly from -nature's sources. The power is obtained from water that is stored in a -reservoir situated far up on the side of the peak. Three and one-half -miles of pipe were used to carry the water from the reservoir to the -plant. The water has a fall of twenty-three hundred feet, which is much -more than is needed to turn the giant wheels that furnish the power to -be distributed to Colorado Springs, Colorado City, and the surrounding -country. The mills at Colorado City use this power exclusively, and the -cheapness at which it can be furnished is a potent factor in making for -the success of their operation. - -At Durango the Animas Power and Water Company has installed a plant -for hydro-electric energy which will furnish power to the entire San -Juan county. The plant comprises two three-thousand horse-power current -generators and the station appliances that correspond with these; and -from this plant extend fifty-thousand volt circuits to all the large -mines near Ouray, Silverton, and Telluride. The "Camp Bird," the "Gold -King," the "Silver Lake," the "Gold Prince," and the "Revenue Tunnel" -mines all draw from this plant for their entire milling and mining -work. - -To harness the cascades, which for ages have known no sterner duty -than to sparkle and frolic in the sunshine, to force the water sprites -and nixies to perform the work of thousands of horse-power, is the -achievement of the modern Merlin. - -The Platte River Power and Irrigation Company are about to establish -two electrical power enterprises most important to Denver, one of which -is to supply all the power that is necessary to turn every wheel now -in motion in the city, and the second is to secure electric power from -the water that is stored in the Cheesman dam and transmit it to Denver. -Responsible men are working for the success of the enterprises, and -it is anticipated that Denver will soon enjoy the advantage of power -furnished at a minimum of cost. - -The Denver inter-urban service for transportation will be carried on -entirely by electricity within the near future. All the railroads that -centre in this City Beautiful are preparing estimates and making ready -to conduct experiments. The recent tests in the East of electrically -driven locomotives indicate that Colorado, with Denver as a centre, -will one day be a network of electric lines traversing productive -regions and connecting all the prosperous towns of the state by this -most ideal form of transit. - -In Colorado it is one of the unwritten laws--a law from which there -is no appeal--that nothing which is desirable is impossible. This is -one of the spiritual laws, indeed, and he who holds it as an axiom -shall perpetually realize its force and its eternal truth. The entire -physical world is plastic to the world of spirit. In that realm alone -realities exist. For "the things which are seen are temporal; but the -things which are not seen are eternal." The faith that stands--not -"in the wisdom of man, but in the power of God"--is that which shall -be justified by the most profound actuality. It is that hidden wisdom -"which God ordained before the world unto our glory." Science has -already discerned the connection between organic form and super-space; -and speculations already begin to emerge from the dim and vague region -of conjecture into hypothesis and theory out of which are developed new -working laws of the universe which are as undeniable as is that of the -law of gravitation. - -In harmonious accordance, then, with that unwritten law of Colorado -that nothing which is desirable is impossible, it was realized that the -Gunnison River, a powerful stream thirty miles east of the Uncompahgre, -afforded an abundance of water to reclaim these desert wastes to the -traditional blossoming of the rose. The Gunnison River, however, flows -through a box caņon three thousand feet deep. Were it at the bottom of -a gorge three thousand miles deep, that fact would hardly daunt the -Colorado spirit. Immediately some invention, incomprehensible to the -present mind of man, would be made by which the desirable issue should -be achieved. As has been remarked, failure is a word not included -in the vocabulary of Colorado. That state has a "revised version" of -its own for the resources of its language, laws, and literature. Its -keynote is the invincible. Ways and means are mere matters of minor -detail. If an achievement is desirable, it is to be accomplished, of -course. It is not even a question for discussion. There is no margin of -debatable land in the realization of every conceivable opportunity. - -A stupendous work in development is that of this Gunnison Tunnel -under the Vernal Mesa to Uncompahgre Valley,--a desert waste whose -area comprises some one hundred thousand acres of sand, sagebrush, -and stones. Yet even here irrigation worked its spell, and while the -Uncompahgre River held out a water supply, the land reached proved -fertile beyond expectation. But the Uncompahgre had its far too -definite and restricted limits; no other water supply was available -for this region, and there lay the land--a tract of potential wealth, -but destined to remain, so far as could be seen, an unproductive and -cumbersome desert region unless irrigation could be achieved. - -To the constructing engineer of the reclamation service there came -a telegram from the chief engineer in Washington asking if it were -feasible to divert the waters of Gunnison River to Uncompahgre Valley -by means of a tunnel under Vernal Mesa? This implied building a tunnel -from a point totally unknown. No one had ever succeeded in passing -through Gunnison Caņon. But the past tense does "not count," any more -than Rip Van Winkle's last glass, in any estimate of the present in -Colorado. Professor Fellows, an engineer of Denver, selected his -assistant; they prepared their instruments, their provisions, and -their inflated rubber mattress, and set forth on this expedition in -which their lives were in constant peril; in which hardships beyond -description were endured. The topographic map, for instance, was -made by Mr. Fellows in the delightful position of being lowered -with ropes into the deep caņon where, should the slightest accident -occur, he would never return to the day and daylight world again. The -establishment of precise levels for both ends of the tunnel, one of -which must, of course, be lower than the other to induce a flow of -water, was another matter requiring a delicacy of adjustment beyond -description. Of their wonderful and even tragic experiences a local -report says: "It all ended by Fellows and his companion saving two -things,--their lives and their notebooks. Everything else went down -with the flood. When the men emerged at the Devil's Slide, weary, -bruised, and bleeding, friends who had been waiting to pick up their -mangled bodies hailed them as if they had returned from the dead." - -Of all this story there was no hint in the cheerfully laconic telegram -despatched to Washington,--"Complete surveys for construction." The -tunnel will be five or six miles in length, of which over two miles -are already completed. The work proceeds night and day with the drills -like mighty giants eating their way through the solid granite of the -Vernal Mesa that lies between the two rivers. This desert region which -will thus be reclaimed comprises portions of three counties,--Ouray, -Montrose, and Delta,--the region being at an altitude of five thousand -feet. It easily produces fruit, alfalfa, and grain, and it is also well -adapted to the culture of potatoes, celery, and the sugar beet. The -land when irrigated is estimated to be worth five hundred dollars per -acre. The tunnel will have a capacity for conveying thirteen thousand -cubic feet of water per second, and there will be connected with it -an elaborate system of lesser canals and ditches that will carry the -water all over this desert tract. It is estimated that this enterprise -will add thousands of homes to the valley of the Uncompahgre, and that -it will increase by at least ten millions the taxable property of -Colorado. The cost of the Gunnison Tunnel will be some two and a half -millions. - -Uncompahgre Valley, lying between the Continental Divide on the east, -and the Utah Desert on the west, comprises the greatest extent of -irrigable land west of Pueblo in the entire state; but the need for -irrigation and the possibilities of supplying that need were so widely -apart that even Merlin the Enchanter recognized the difficulty, though -by no means defining it as an impossibility. The Uncompahgre River -was soon exhausted, and only this apparently impracticable scheme, -now happily realized, offered any solution of the problem. Hon. Meade -Hammond of the state legislature of Colorado secured the appropriation -of twenty-five thousand dollars to meet the expenses of surveying -and preliminary work. Hon. John C. Bell, the representative for that -district in Congress, gave untiring devotion to the project, and to -his efforts was due the zeal with which the reclamation service took -up this vast work; and when Professor Fellows was appointed as the -government district engineer its success became the object of his -supreme interest and unremitting energy, and its achievement adds -another to the remarkable engineering works of Colorado. - -In this Land of Enchantment almost anything is possible, even to -yachting,--a pastime that would not at first present itself as one to -be included among the entertainments of an arid state which has to -set its own legislative machinery and that of Congress in motion in -order to contrive a water supply for even its agricultural service; -nevertheless, on a lake in the mountains, more than a mile and a half -above sea level and some one hundred miles from Denver the Beautiful, -a yacht club disports itself with all the airy grace and assurance of -its ground--one means of its water--that distinguishes the delightful -Yacht Club at old Marblehead on the Atlantic Coast. There was, however, -no government appropriation made to create this lake, as might at -first be supposed, nor any experts sent out commissioned to prepare -the way. There are numerous forms of summer-day entertainments that -are more or less in evidence in the inland states; but yachting has -never been supposed to be among them, as preconceived ideas of this joy -have invariably associated it with oceans and seas. Still, it must be -remembered that Colorado is an exceptional region in the universe, and -creates, not follows, precedents. It is the state, as has before been -remarked, to which nothing conceivable is impossible. - -Grand Lake is in Middle Park, sixty miles from the nearest railroad -station. (With the incredible celerity with which life progresses -in the Centennial State, of course by the time this description is -materialized in print Grand Lake may have become a railroad centre--who -shall say? It is not safe to limit prophecy in Colorado.) At present, -however, a railroad journey of forty miles from Denver, supplemented -by sixty miles of stage, brings one to the lake, a beautiful sheet of -water two miles in length and more than a mile in width, whose water -is icy cold. The locality has become something of a summer resort for -many Denver people, and also, to some extent, to those from Chicago -and Kansas City, and a group of cottages have sprung up. Some seven -years ago the Grand Lake Yacht Club was duly organized, with Mr. R. -C. Campbell, a son-in-law of Senator Patterson of Colorado, Mr. W. H. -Bryant, a prominent citizen of Denver the Beautiful, Major Lafayette -Campbell, and other well-known men, as its officers. The club has -now a fleet of yachts; it has its regatta week, and altogether holds -its own among nautical associations; it takes itself seriously, in fact -with what Henry James calls the "deadly earnestness of the Bostonians," -which is paralleled by this inland and arid-land yachting club. - -[Illustration: THE WONDERFUL HANGING LAKE, NEAR GLENWOOD SPRINGS, -COLORADO] - -Besides the joys of yachting in an arid state where that nautical -pastime is apparently carried on in mid air, is the local diversion of -climbing mountain peaks that are pronounced impossible of ascension. -This is one of the favorite entertainments of Colorado young women, -who have conquered Long's, Gray's, Pike's, and Torrey's peaks, Mount -Massive, the "Devil's Causeway," and various lesser heights, which they -scale with the characteristically invincible energy of their state. The -summit of Mount Massive is fourteen thousand five hundred feet above -sea level, and of one of these expeditions a Denver journal says of -this party of several ladies and gentlemen: - - "Camp was struck at Lamb's ranch, where, in the early morning, the - wagon was left with all the outfit not absolutely necessary. The - trail sloped steadily to the boulder field, where the party stopped - for lunch. They were now at an altitude of twelve thousand feet. - A cold wind swept across the range and chilled them, so that the - climb was soon renewed. - - "The boulder field is two miles long and seemed five, for walking - over the great stones is a wearisome business. At the end of the - boulder field, which is much like the terminal range of an old - glacier, is a great snowbank. From a long distance the mountain - climbers saw the keyhole,--a deep notch of overjutting rock through - which goes the only trail to the summit of Long's. It is a gigantic - cornice to a ridge that extends north from the main cone. - - "After passing the keyhole, which had loomed up before them through - weary miles of tramping, a great panorama of mountains stretched - before them.... There was a precipitous slope of rocks jammed - together in a gulch. This rises for about seven hundred feet, every - inch stiff climbing. - - "The danger at this point was that some climbers might dislodge - rocks which would come bounding down on the heads of those in the - rear. For this reason the orders of the leader were urgent that the - party should not get separated. The trail at this point led up the - sharply sloping eaves of the mountain roof, from which the climber - might drop a dizzy distance to the depths below. Clinging to the - rocks and hanging on by hands or feet, the party pushed up to a - ledge from which they looked over an abyss several thousand feet - sheer down." - -In Southern Colorado the cliff-dwellers' region offers some of the most -remarkable ruins in America, and their preservation in a government -reservation, to be known as the Mesa Verde National Park, has been -assured by a bill that has been recently passed by Congress and -which is one of the eminent features of latter-day legislation. It -is Representative Hogg who introduced this bill providing for the -permanent protection of those cliff-dweller ruins which, with those -in New Mexico and Arizona, constitute some of the most valuable and -interesting prehistoric remains in the United States. Already much of -this archæological treasure of inestimable scientific value has been -carried away by visitors, while, instead of permitting this region to -be thus despoiled, it should be made easily accessible to tourists -and held as one of the grand show places of the great Southwest. -Like the Grand Caņon and the Petrified Forests of Arizona, like the -Pike's Peak region in Colorado, Mesa Verde would become an objective -point of pilgrimage to thousands of summer tourists. In the winter -of 1904-5 Representative Lacey, of Iowa, the eminent chairman of the -House Committee on Public Lands, made in behalf of his committee a -favorable report on the Colorado Cliff-dwellers' Bill, presenting, with -his characteristic eloquence of argument, the truth that the permanent -preservation of these wonderful and almost prehistoric ruins is greatly -to be desired by the people of the Southwest, as well as by those -interested in archæology elsewhere. "The ruins are situated among rocky -cliffs, and may be easily preserved if protected," said Mr. Lacey, and -added: - - "With the exception of two or three small, fallen, and totally - uninteresting ones, all the ruins of the Mesa Verde are in the - Southern Ute Indian Reservation. It is an extremely arid region, - and little or no agriculture is practised by the Utes, although - they range sheep, goats, cattle, and ponies on the mesa and in the - caņons. It is a poor range at best, and the Indians appear to need - all they can get. Moreover, the reclamation service has made some - estimates regarding storage reservoirs in the upper Mancos, and it - may be at some future time a part of this land in the reservation - will be irrigable and greatly increased in value. The Utes are - not going to destroy these ruins or dig in them. They stand in - superstitious awe of them, believing them to be inhabited by the - spirits of the dead, and cannot be induced to go near them." - -These dwellings are excavated in cliffs from five to nine hundred feet -above the plateaus. Of these, two dwellings stand out prominently,--the -"Spruce Tree House" and the "Balcony House," the former of which -contains a hundred and thirty rooms, of each of which the average -measurement is about eight by six feet. Much pottery, weapons, -armament, and many skeletons and mummies are found in these dwellings. - -The later conclusions of scientists are that these cliff-houses were -designed as places of refuge and defence rather than as ordinary -habitations. The parallelogram and circle forms predominate, and they -are often forty feet in diameter. There are sometimes double, or even -triple walls, solidly built of hewn stone, with a circular depression -(council-chamber) in the centre. - -Pueblo is the metropolis of Southern Colorado. It is the second city -in the state, ranking next to Denver. It is an important industrial -centre, being the location of the great steel works of the Colorado -Fuel and Iron Company, and two large smelting plants in constant -activity. It is a town with unusual possibilities of beauty, rambling, -as it does, over the rolling mesas with a series of enchanting vistas -and mountain views of great beauty. The Spanish Peaks are in full -sight from the new residence region of Pueblo, and here is the home of -ex-Governor and Mrs. Alva Adams, with its spacious, book-lined rooms; -its choice and finely selected souvenirs of foreign travel; its music -and pictures; and far above all, the gracious sweetness and charm of -Mrs. Adams, who has that most perfect of gifts--that of transforming a -household into a home. Governor Adams, although in his modesty he would -deprecate the distinction, is easily the first citizen of Colorado. -Twice the Governor of the state, he has impressed the entire people -with his flawless integrity of character, his noble ideals, and his -energy of executive power in securing and enforcing the best measures -for the people and carrying onward into practical life the highest -moral and educational standards. - -Governor Adams is always greatly in demand as a speaker, and in -September of 1906 he was again nominated for Governor of the state. - -Colorado, quite irrespective of party, is all aglow with the name of -Alva Adams. Good Republicans have long been greatly perplexed over -the fact that the man they most desire to vote for, the man to whose -guidance they would most willingly commit the affairs of state, is a -Democrat. The ability, the unquestioned integrity, the fidelity to -lofty ideals, and the great administrative power of Governor Adams -inspire the almost universal enthusiasm of Colorado irrespective of -party lines. - -No son of the Centennial State is more in sympathy with its individual -problems. Born in Wisconsin (some fifty-five years ago), Governor Adams -was about to enter the Ann Arbor Law School when the illness of a -brother brought him in his earliest youth to Colorado. Its beauty, its -rich possibilities, enchanted him. Here he married a very cultivated -and beautiful young woman, whose parents came in her early girlhood to -Colorado, and whose sympathetic and perfect companionship has been the -unfailing source of his noblest inspiration. - -In an address on "Pathfinders and Pioneers," given before an irrigation -congress at Colorado Springs, we find Governor Adams saying: - - "What a sublime moment when the explorer realizes the fruition - of his dream! What fateful hours upon the dial of human progress - when Columbus saw a new world emerge from the sea, when Balboa - stood 'silent upon a peak in Darien,' when Lewis and Clark upon - the continent's crest saw the waters of the rivulet run toward the - West! Such events compensate great souls, and their spirits defy - hardship, ingratitude, chains, dungeons, and the axe. The curtain - has been run down upon the careers of those brave men whose praise - we sing. Their race is run. The explorer, priest, trapper, and - pioneer have vanished. - - "'Westward the course of empire takes its way; - The four first acts already past, - A fifth shall close the drama with the day; - Time's noblest offspring is the last.' - - "Would it be a daring assumption to consider the irrigated regions - of America as the arena in which the fifth act, time's noblest - offspring, is to perfect and complete the drama of civilization? - - "Irrigated lands were the cradle of the race. The first canals - were run from the four rivers of Paradise. May not the fruition of - mankind seek the same conditions amid which it was born? Providence - has kept fallow this new land until man was fitted to enter and - possess it. - - "'Hid in the West through centuries, - Till men, through countless tyrannies, could understand - The priceless worth of freedom.'" - -"I would not decry culture and refinement," said ex-Governor Adams in -this address; "they are the charm and beauty of modern life, the music -and art of the social commerce of the age; but in their acquirement -I would not give up the robust, vigorous, daring qualities of the -pioneer." - -The Governor proceeded: - - "They had blood and iron in their heart, they had the nerve to - dare, the strength to do. I do not believe in battle for battle's - sake; but I never want to see our people when they are not willing - to fight, and able to fight. The only guarantee of peace and - liberty is the ability and willingness to do battle for your - rights. Refinement alone is not strength, culture alone is not - virtue. Absalom, Alcibiades, and Burr stand in history as the - most polished, cultured men of three ages, yet they were more a - menace than a brace to the liberties of their time. In stress, - the world calls upon the Calvins, the Cromwells, the Jacksons, - Browns, and Lincolns. They were stalwart, strenuous, courageous - men; not cultured and refined, but rich in royalty and daring. It - is the rugged and the strong, and not the gentle and the wise, who - gather in their hands the reins of fate and plough deep furrows - in the fields of human events. It is they who have driven the car - of progress and have woven the deepest colors in the fabric of - human happiness. It is true that some of our Western torch-bearers - were not perfect; none of them were ever anointed with the oil - of consecration; around them surged the temptations of a wild - and boisterous age; through their hearts and souls there swept - the impulses and passions of the strong; if they sinned, it was - against themselves, not their country. Let their frailties be - forgotten, and their good cherished. Often rough and defiant of the - conventionalities, they were ever true and loyal, and most of these - empire builders can stand before the great white throne with open - hearts. They were the architects, the Hiram Abifs of these Western - empires. They laid the foundations in courage and liberty." - -Let no one fancy that Pueblo is a primitive Western city devoid of -electricity, telephones, motor cars, or even Marconigrams. Let no one -fancy it is too far from Paris to have the latest French fashions. It -is hardly an exaggeration to say that it demands the best and the most -up-to-date ideas of the Eastern cities to be at all eligible in these -Colorado towns. Pueblo has a most delightful club-house on the edge of -a lake--the lake is artificially created, and being made to order, is, -of course, exactly the kind of lake that is desired, the water being -conducted from the mountains into a large natural depression--where -great open fires in every room greet the daily visitor; where there are -large reading-rooms, a dining-room, and a ball-room; no intoxicating -beverages of any kind are allowed to be sold, so that youths and -maidens may at any time enjoy the club with no insidious dangers to -their moral welfare. - -There are many centres of social life; and if Pueblo people have any -other conceivable occupation than to give dinner parties at night and -go motoring in the morning, with endless receptions of the Daughters -of the Revolution and other clubs, organizations, or purely private -card receptions invading the afternoons, the visitor hardly realizes -it. The dinners given are often as elaborate as in the large Eastern -cities, as one, for instance, given by Mr. and Mrs. Mahlon D. Thatcher -at their stately home "Hillcrest," where the decorations were all in -rich rose red, a most brilliant effect, and the souvenirs were India -ink reproductions of old castles on white satin. The dinner cards held -each a quotation from the poets. - - * * * * * - -Pueblo is always all sunshine and radiance, and has a beauty of -location that makes it notable, with its encircling blue mountains and -picturesque mesas, and the perpetual benediction of the Spanish Peaks -silhouetted against the western sky. Its new library is the pride and -delight of every citizen. It is one of the Carnegie chain,--a large, -two-story and basement structure of white Colorado stone, the interior -finished with the richly variegated Colorado marble which is used for -mantels and fireplaces. The book stacks, the spacious and splendid -reading-room, the children's room, and the smaller ones for reference -and special study, are all planned on the latest and most perfect -models. - -The library is in the Royal Park, on the crest of one of the mesas, -very near the home of Governor Adams. It is a library to delight the -heart of the book-lover. Pueblo offers, indeed, great attractions to -all who incline to this land of sunshine. The climate is even more mild -than that of Denver, from which city it is a little over three hours -distant by the fast trains, or four hours by slower ones. Colorado -Springs lies between--two hours from Denver and a little over one -hour from Pueblo. The location combines many attractions. With three -railroads; its large industries in smelting and steel; its excellent -schools, both public and private; its churches, its daily newspapers; -its library; and its fine clubhouse, open to families,--women and -children as well as men enjoying it freely,--Pueblo seems one of -the most delightful of places. It has large wealth and a power of -initiating many opportunities. It is on the most picturesque and -delightful lines of travel to Caņon City, Salida, Leadville, Glenwood -Springs, and through Salt Lake City to the Pacific Coast; or on the -line to Arizona and the Grand Caņon of the Colorado, and on to Los -Angeles and San Francisco; or eastward to Chicago and the Atlantic -Coast; or southward to Mexico, or St. Louis, or New Orleans. Pueblo is -really in the heart of things, so to speak. The Chicago papers arrive -the next day, the New York papers the third morning, and the telephonic -communication is simply almost without limit. Governor Adams will step -from his library into another book-lined room where the telephone is -placed, and from there talk with people in five different states. Once -he held a conversation with a man at the bottom of a mine a few hundred -miles away,--a man whose subterranean sojourn had the alleviation of a -telephone. - -The greatest industrial organization west of the Mississippi River is -that of the Colorado Fuel and Iron Company, whose largest plant is at -Pueblo, and is held at a valuation of fifty-eight million dollars. On -its pay-roll are fifteen thousand employés. There are twenty thousand -tons of steel rail produced each month, and it is said that this -number will soon be largely increased, and that the Goulds and the -Rockefellers are arranging to utilize the product of these mills for -their vast railroad interests. The company owns such large tracts of -land in Colorado, New Mexico, Utah, and Wyoming; it owns coal mines, -iron mines, lime quarries; it owns parts of two railroads, besides -telegraph and telephone lines galore, so that by reason of these -extensive holdings it is able to secure at a minimum of cost all the -raw materials from which the finished products are turned out. Upward -of three hundred thousand acres of the richest coal lands in the West, -an empire containing one hundred square miles more than the coal -area of Pennsylvania, constitute the holdings for coal mine purposes -of the company. In addition there are iron, manganese mines, and -limestone quarries containing the elements which give to the product -of the furnaces and mills qualities that secure the markets of the -Western world. Its plant at Pueblo has become the centre of a town -called Minnequa, composed of its own employés and their families. The -company has established a model hospital, with a surgeon's department -fitted up with the most elaborate and finest scientific and nursing -facilities; a fine library and large reading-rooms, and a recreation -hall and gymnasium for the workmen. Nearly one million dollars has -been expended on the tenant houses belonging to the company, which -are rented to their employés on fair and advantageous terms. In -many respects Minnequa, at Pueblo, is one of the most remarkable -manufacturing centres in the world, presenting aspects that invite -study, in its extensive resources, the vast and colossal character of -its purposes, and its remarkable achievements. All employés are given -the opportunity to acquire homes; and every late ideal in the way of -providing opportunities for their care in health, in mental and moral -development, and in recreations, is carried out to the fullest possible -extent. - -The company has recently engaged in an irrigation enterprise in the -purchase of water-right priorities of the Arkansas River for seventy -cubic feet of water per second, at an expense of one million dollars. -These rights, which date back to 1860-62, are among the oldest -existing, and they insure to the company the uninterrupted and certain -possession of the river flow. A court decree enabled them to change -the point of division, and they have constructed a new head-gate at -Adobe, six miles east of Florence. A canal fifty-eight miles in length -is being constructed from Florence to the mills owned by the company. -The cost of this canal will be some three quarters of a million. These -mills produce over seventy-five thousand tons of iron and steel each -month. The manufacturing plant at Minnequa includes blast furnaces, -converting works, blooming mills, a merchant iron mill, a hoop and -cotton tie mill, a spike factory, a bolt factory, a castings and pipe -foundry, with open hearth furnaces, a reversing mill, and many other -appliances. - -"It must not be supposed, because we find it necessary to practise -irrigation in Colorado, that we therefore never have any rains," -observed a Coloradoan; "on the contrary, the rains of spring are -usually of such abundance as to make the ground in fine condition -for ploughing and putting in crops, and we seldom find it necessary -to apply water to germinate any kind of seed; only once, in thirteen -years' experience at Greeley, were we compelled to resort to irrigation -before crops of all kinds were well up and considerably advanced in -growth. About the last of May, however, as regularly as the natural -periods of summer, autumn, winter, and spring occur in the other -states, never varying more than a week in time, these copious rains -suddenly cease and give place to light and entirely inadequate local -thunder-showers. Now is the accepted time, and all over cultivated -Colorado, within a period of not more than two days, every flood-gate -is opened and the life-giving current started to flowing on the rapidly -parching grain. Corn will endure until later in the season, but all -sowed crops must get one thorough application of water within two -weeks or become severely injured for the want of it. Day and night -the silent current flows on and on, among the fields of grain; not a -drop of water nor a moment of time must run to waste until the first -irrigation is completed." - -In so exceptional a summer of drought and heat as was that of 1901 the -advantages of irrigation stand out. Journeying through Kansas, the long -day's ride across the state revealed continued devastation from the -lack of rain. Corn fields looked almost as if a fire had passed over -them, so shrivelled and stunted they were; but in Colorado on every -hand there were greenness and luxuriance of vegetation and of crops. -The result is simply that, with irrigation, man controls his climate -and all the conditions of prosperity. Without it, he is at the mercy of -the elements. - -The Union Colony of Greeley was the first to introduce upland -irrigation in Colorado. Of the method employed, the "Greeley Tribune" -gave this description: - - "Almost the first question asked by many persons on their first - arrival in Colorado, when they see the irrigating ditches running - along the sides of the bluffs high above the river, and back from - it five, ten, or twenty miles, is, 'How do you get the water out - of the river, and so high above it? It looks as if you made the - water run uphill.' The answer is very simple. All the rivers of - Colorado are mountain streams, and consequently have a fall of from - ten to thirty feet to the mile, after they reach the plains. In the - mountains, of course, the fall is often much greater. The plains - also have a gradual slope eastward from the foothills, where the - altitude is generally between six and seven thousand feet above sea - level, while at the eastern boundary of the state it is only about - three thousand feet. Take, for example, the canal generally known - as Number Two, which waters the lands of the Greeley Colony. This - canal is taken out of the Cache la Poudre River, about seventeen - miles west of Greeley, and where the bed of the river is probably - a hundred and sixty feet higher than it is at Greeley. The bed of - the canal only has a fall of from three to three and a half feet - to the mile; therefore it is easily seen that when that grade is - continued for a number of miles, the line of the canal will run in - a direction further and further from the river, and on much higher - ground, so that the lands lying between the canal and the river are - all 'covered by,' or on a lower level than, the water in the canal. - In the process of irrigation this same plan must be followed, - of bringing the water in on the higher side of the land to be - irrigated, then the water will easily flow all over the ground." - -In Weld County, of which Greeley is the county seat, irrigation was -extended during 1905 to cover from fifteen thousand to twenty thousand -acres of arid land never before under cultivation, and storage -reservoirs increased in capacity. It is proposed to cut a tunnel -through the Medicine Bow mountain range and to bring a large quantity -of water through from the Western slope to irrigate an additional fifty -thousand acres of prairie. - -Within the past year there have been two potato starch factories -started in successful operation in Greeley which are estimated to -pay out annually one hundred thousand dollars for potatoes that have -heretofore been practically a total loss to the farmers. - -The Swift Packing Company of Chicago propose investing one and a half -millions in further irrigation in this county. The products of the -Greeley district alone, for 1905, were five and a half millions,--a -fact that suggests the wise foresight of Hon. Nathan Cook Meeker, the -founder of the town, in selecting this location, in 1869, for his -colony. - -Of recent years a remarkable feature of agricultural progress in -Colorado has been developed by the "dry farming" system, the discovery -of which is due to Prof. H. W. Campbell, who has been experimenting, -for some twenty years past, in Eastern Colorado, in the scientific -culture of the soil without benefit of irrigation. Professor Campbell -says that he had been assured that corn would not grow at an altitude -of three thousand feet, as the nights would be too cool; but that he -can refute this, as, during the past five years, he has averaged from -thirty to forty-two bushels per acre at an altitude ranging from five -thousand to nearly seven thousand feet. Successful agriculture is, in -Professor Campbell's belief, based on the fundamental principle of soil -culture, and in an interview he said: - - "While the great work now being done by the government in - promoting irrigation enterprises in the more arid portion of - the West and the using of millions upon millions of money for - the building of mammoth reservoirs have value and virtue, and - means the development of many sections that must remain almost - worthless without them, and the spending of thousands of dollars - in traversing foreign countries to secure what some have pleased - to call drought-resisting plants, will undoubtedly play their part - in promoting the welfare and prosperity of Colorado, ... yet there - should also be an understanding of, first, the necessary physical - condition of the soil for the most liberal growth and development - of roots; secondly, the storing and conserving the entire season - rainfall,--not only the portion that falls during the growing - season, but from the early spring to late in the fall; thirdly, the - fact that air is just as important in the soil as water, and that - it is the combination of the elements of air and water in the soil, - together with heat and light, that is most essential; and that when - these conditions are fulfilled, Eastern Colorado will come to its - rightful own, and little towns and cities will spring up along all - the great trunk lines, while the intervening country will be dotted - with ideal farm homes and shade trees; orchards and groves will - break the monotony of the now bleak prairie, and present a restful, - cheerful, homelike, and prosperous condition." - -While agriculture in Colorado is regarded as in its infancy, yet the -product of Colorado farms alone contributed almost fifty-one millions -to the world's wealth, in 1905, exclusive of wool, hides, or live -stock. Professor Olin of the State Agricultural College estimates that -there are over two hundred thousand acres in Colorado which produce -crops without irrigation, by the application of Professor Campbell's -"dry-farming" system. The so-called dry land, consisting of millions -of acres in Eastern Colorado, averages now four dollars per acre, -where one year ago untold quantities could be bought for an average of -two dollars per acre. The speculative value of this land has gone up -wonderfully under the impetus of the Campbell system of dry farming. If -this system comes anywhere near proving the claims of its advocates, -it will vastly increase the wealth and population of the state. With -a greater understanding of the science of dry culture it is certain -that the farmers of the state and the state generally will experience -immeasurable advantage. In the eastern plains of Colorado are embraced -more than fifteen million acres of land which are now lying practically -useless, only a small amount being utilized for ranging cattle. The -claims of dry-culture enthusiasts and those who have been experimenting -with seed imported to meet the dry conditions are, that this empire -will be made to yield harvests which will support many thriving -communities. In proof of their claims they point to so-called model -farms established at various places on the plains where the hitherto -unyielding soil has borne substantial crops. - -One important feature in the agricultural development of Colorado is -the extinction of the bonanza ranch of thousands of acres. Instead, -farms are reduced to manageable proportions, and are carried on far -more largely by intelligent thought and scientific appliances than by -mere manual labor. - -The present day Colorado ranch is an all-the-year-round enterprise. -The ranch owner is a careful business man, who watches his acres and -the products thereof even as the successful merchant or manufacturer -acquires close knowledge of all the details of his business. He sows -his land with diversified crops, rotating hay, grain, and root crops -scientifically for the double purpose of securing the greatest yields -and preserving the nourishing qualities of the soil. Keeping in touch -with the market conditions of the world, and with the advancing -developments of science, he is easily the master of the situation, and -in no part of the country is the condition of the farmer better, or -perhaps so good, as in Colorado. The agriculturist of the Centennial -State who is the owner of two quarter sections, or even of one, is -altogether independent. The returns from his business are absolutely -sure, and with the certain knowledge of substantial gains at the end -of the season he plans improvements to his home, and comforts and even -luxuries for himself and family, which far exceed those usually secured -in the Middle West or by the small farmers of the East. In Colorado it -will be found that almost every young man and woman of those who are -natives of the state are college graduates. Co-education prevails, just -as does the political enfranchisement of women, and the results of this -larger extension of the opportunities and privileges of life are very -much in evidence in the beauty, the high intelligence, and the liberal -culture that especially characterize the women of Colorado. - -Irrigation enterprises in Colorado are far more widely recognized than -is the Campbell system of dry culture; but in 1905 these enterprises -appealed with increased force to capitalists outside, as well as within -Colorado, as a safe and profitable means of investment. Land held at -ten dollars per acre is, by irrigation, instantly increased in value -from twenty to fifty dollars; and it was seen that the most favorable -localities within the state in which to raise funds for further -extension of irrigation were among the farmers in the older irrigated -sections who have won their ranches, improved their places, and made -large deposits in the banks through the use of the productive waters -trained to make the soil blossom with wealth. - -Irrigation is developed to its highest excellence in Northern Colorado -and in the valley of the Arkansas River. These regions have been the -longest under irrigated culture, and their value is increasing rapidly. -Each year sees the agriculturist grow more conservative in his use of -water, and the quantity thus saved has been applied to new lands. Thus, -in an interesting and quite undreamed-of way, a problem that incited -discord and dissension, that promised only to increase inevitably -as larger territories of land and their correspondingly increased -irrigation should be held, was brought to a peaceful solution. -Continued litigation, and a great pressure to secure legislative -restrictions of the use of water supply, and the constant irritation -and turmoil involved in these disputes, were all, happily, laid to rest -by the discovery of the farmers themselves that extravagance in the use -of water was not conducive to their own prosperity. In the matter of -flood waters the irrigation experts of the state are quite generally -meeting the condition in their own way. Storage reservoirs are dotting -the irrigation systems at frequent intervals, and in the dry months -the supply piled up behind the cement dams is drawn off to furnish the -final necessary moisture for the maturing of the crops. - -Another possibility of irrigation that is receiving the attention of -engineers is the utilization of the streams for power purposes. In many -cases the power thus generated will be made to accomplish marvellous -feats in the way of construction, as in the instance at Grand River, -already described. - -One of the special journeys in Colorado is that called a "trip around -the circle," affording more than a thousand miles among the mountains -within four days' time; but a permission for ten days is available, -thus affording several detours by stage, which penetrate into the -most sublime regions. The abysmal depth of five of the great caņons; -many of the noted mountain passes; great mining camps, with their -complicated machinery; cliff dwellings, vast plateaus, and stupendous -peaks; Indian reservations; the icy crevasses a thousand feet in depth; -the picturesque "Continental Divide," from which one looks down on a -thousand mountain peaks, where the vast Cordilleras in their rugged -grandeur are seen as a wide plain; the beautiful Sangre de Cristo -("Blood of Christ") range; the sharp outlines of the Spanish Peaks, -rising twelve and thirteen thousand feet into the air; beautiful meadow -lands where the blue and white columbine, the state flower of Colorado, -blooms in profusion, and the tiger lily, the primrose, and the -"shooting stars" blossom,--all these are enjoyed within the "circle" -trip; and it also includes Leadville, the "city above the clouds," -Durango, Ouray, Gunnison, and other interesting towns. It offers a near -view of the Mount of the Holy Cross, which strange spectacle is made by -the snow deposits in transverse, gigantic caņons,--the perpendicular -one being fifteen hundred feet, while the transverse cross is seven -hundred and fifty feet in length; of Lost Caņon, a novelty even in a -land of caņons; and of the Rio de Las Animas Perditas, old Fort Lewis, -the valley of Dolores River, a region of early Spanish discovery; of -Black Caņon and Cimarron Caņon and Grand River Caņon, whose walls -rise to the height of more than twenty-five hundred feet;--all these -are but the merest outline and hint of the scenic wonders compassed -within the circle trip. Up the caņons the train climbs; through narrow -gorges with overhanging rocks, on and on, till a plateau is reached; -then more caņons, more climbing, more peaks towering into the skies, -and waterfalls chiming their music. As even an enthusiast in scenery -cannot entirely subsist on stars, sunsets, and silences, the luxurious -comforts of these trains enhance one's enjoyment. A dining-car is -always on, and the excellence of the food and the moderate prices for -all this perfect comfort and convenience are features the traveller -appreciates. That dance of the Brocken which one fancies he sees in -the fantastic sandstone formations on the mountain's side on the -romantic route to Glenwood Springs is occasionally duplicated in -other caņons, where these strange rocks resolve themselves, with the -aid of the mysterious lights and shadows, into a dance of witches, -and every shape springs to life. The train rushes on, and one leaves -them dancing, confident that although these figures may be stationary -by day, they dance at night. Another mountain slope of the sandstone -shows a colossal figure of a prophet,--shrouded, hooded, suggesting -that solemn, majestic figure of death in Daniel French's great work -entitled "Death and the Sculptor." The precipitous walls of the caņon -rise in many places to over a thousand feet in height. In their sides -such a variety of designs and figures have been sculptured by erosion -that the traveller half imagines himself in the realm of the gods of -Hellas. These innumerable designs and figures incite not only the play -of fancy, but they invite the study of the geologist, who finds here -the primary rock formations exhibited in the most varied and striking -manner. As the train winds deeper into the heart of the projecting -rocks the crested crags loom up beyond the sight; below, the river -rushes in foaming torrents and only a faint arch of the sky is seen. -There are recesses never penetrated by the sun. - -[Illustration: CATHEDRAL ROCKS, CLYDE PARK, CRIPPLE CREEK SHORT LINE] - -Another group of the sandstone shapes, under the transformation of -moonlight, resolved itself into a band of angels, and still another -mountain-side seems to be the scene of ballet dancers. The splendid -heights of Dolores Peak and Expectation Mountain, the Lizard Head, -the Cathedral Spires, the Castle Peaks of the Sangre de Cristo--what -points and groups that fairly focus all conceivable sublimity they -form! Here is a state more than a third larger than all New England; -it is the state of sunsets and of stars; of scenery that is impressive -and uplifting, rather than merely picturesque; a state whose plains, -even, are of the same altitude as the summit of Mount Washington in the -White Mountains, and whose mountains and peaks ascend to an altitude -of over two miles above this height. Of the total extent of Colorado, -the mountains, inclusive of parks and foothills, occupy two-thirds of -the area. So it is easily realized to what extent they dominate the -scene. But great and impressive as they are in effect, the mountain -features have an undoubted influence, however unconsciously received, -on the character of the people. The effect of beauty on character is -incalculable. When to beauty is added sublimity, how much greater must -this effect be! It was not mere rhetoric when the Psalmist exclaimed, -"I will lift up mine eyes unto the hills, from whence cometh my help. -My help cometh from the Lord, which made heaven and earth.... The Lord -shall preserve thee from all evil. He shall preserve thy soul." It is -this train of thought which is inevitably suggested to the mind in -gazing upon the stately, solemn impressiveness of the mountain scenery. -Nature has predestined Colorado for the theatre of noble life, and the -influence is all-pervading. - -Great engineering feats are in evidence all over Colorado. Miles of -railway tunnels pass through the mountains. No mountain, not even -Pike's Peak, is regarded in Colorado as being in any sense an obstacle -to any form of the extension of travel. The railroad either passes -through it or climbs it. The matter is apparently simple to the -railroad mind, and evidently all the peaks of the Himalayas piled on -Pike's or Long's peaks--"Ossa piled on Pelion"--would not daunt the -Coloradoan enterprise. In fact, the greater the obstacle, the greater -is the enterprise thereby incited to overcome it. In the most literal -way obstacles in this land of enchantment are miraculously transformed -to stepping-stones. But what would you,--in an Enchanted Country? - -Colorado has four great systems of parks whose elevation is from seven -to nine thousand feet: North Park, with an area of some twenty-five -hundred square miles; South Park, one thousand; Middle Park, three -thousand; and San Luis, with nine thousand four hundred square -miles,--all sheltered by mountains, watered by perpetual streams, and -so rich in grass lands as to afford perpetual grazing and farming -resources. Colorado has nearly one thousand inland lakes, and over two -hundred and fifty rivers fed from mountain snows. Its grand features -include mountains, caņons, gorges and deep chasms, crags and heights; -its mountain systems cover more than five times the area of the Alps, -and its luminous, electrically exhilarating air, its play of color, and -the necromancy of distances that seem near when afar--all linger in the -memory as a dream of ecstatic experiences. Colorado is all a splendor -of color, of vista, and of dream. It is the most poetic of states. - -Now the fact that this country has been importing over two million tons -of sugar a year lends importance to the beet sugar factories already -largely established. Colorado has a future in beet sugar hardly second -to her gold-mining interests, if her interests receive the national -safe-guarding that is her due. - -Colorado and the Philippines were brought into collision of interests -by the attempt to reduce the tariff on sugar imported from those -islands. This would ruin the beet sugar industry in the Centennial -State, which is already beginning to transform it into one of the -richest agricultural states in the Union. - -This industry is absolutely identified with the irrigation interests -of Colorado, as it is the arid land irrigated that offers the best -facilities for the sugar beets. - -The beet sugar enterprise means remunerative work for the farmer, good -business for the railroads and merchants, and an incalculable degree of -prosperity for all Colorado. Thomas F. Walsh, of Ouray, Colorado, and -of Washington, made an earnest protest against this movement. - -Mr. Walsh is a great capitalist, but while he has not one dollar -concerned in the beet sugar enterprise of his state, he is a loyal and -devoted son of Colorado. In a convincing manner he said: - - "... It is not a small thing, this robbery of American farmers and - home-makers for the benefit of sugar corporations and exploiters - of Philippine labor. It means the ultimate ruin of an industry - that is full of the brightest promise for thousands of Americans. - It means that the people of the United States shall pay tribute - to a trust forever for one of the necessaries of life.... The - removal of protection to Colorado sugar growers would simply mean - that the sugar trust, or cormorants in human form like it, would - go to the Philippines, employ the peons at starvation wages, and - send millions of tons of sugar to the United States. Would the - consumer here be benefited? Not at all. Has the consumer benefited - by reciprocity with Cuba? The sugar trust has received a gift from - the treasury of the United States--that is all." - -And again Mr. Walsh truly says: - - "This proposition is merely a design on the part of enormously - rich, greedy speculators, who are willing to adopt any means for - the accumulation of more money. Money, money, money! They have - already a thousand times more than they need, and are simply money - mad. They propose to exploit the Philippines for their own selfish - ends. Help for the poor Filipinos, indeed! Imagine the generosity - of these get-rich-quick sharks towards the peons in their employ. - Think of the wages that would be paid, contrasted with the standard - of living in the United States! I'd rather have the people of this - country exterminated than to be brought to such a level." - -Regarding the arid land Mr. Walsh said: - - "With the application of water to this land under the National - Irrigation Act--one of the greatest acts of statesmanship - accomplished under our broad-minded and far-sighted President--the - people of Colorado will furnish an outlet for a great population, - and the cultivation of beets for sugar will enable thousands of - American citizens to establish homes of their own. That is what is - now being done in Colorado, and the industry is in its infancy. - The people have gone in there at the suggestion of the government, - planted beets provided to them by the agricultural department, and - started a great industry. There was an implied, if not expressed, - promise that they were to be protected in this new industry. Yet - it is now proposed to place them in competition with the peons - of the Philippines, at the most critical time in the history of - the industry. The people of the East," continued Mr. Walsh, "do - not seem to be able to grasp the great possibilities of the arid - West under the operation of the national irrigation law. The West, - properly irrigated with water that we know can be developed by - drainage, wells, and underground flow, will easily support fifty - millions of people. Think of what this means! Fifty millions of - American citizens owning their own homes! It is an incalculable - addition to the wealth and strength of the United States." - -One of the very valuable and exceptional resources of Colorado is -in its stone, which equals the world's best product in its quality. -Millions of tons of almost every variety of building stone lie -unclaimed on the hills and plateaus. There are quarries in Gunnison -County that would make their owners multi-millionnaires, could the -stone be made easy of access or transportation. The difficulty of the -former, and the high freight charges, combine to delay this field -of development. In Pueblo there is a marbleized sandstone that is -very beautiful. Its "crushing" strength, as the architectural phrase -goes, is between eleven and twelve thousand pounds to the square -inch,--a strength which exceeds the most exacting requirements of any -architect. This stone is found in unlimited quantities. In the country -around Fort Collins there is a red sandstone which is very popular, and -this is also found in large quantities at Castle Rock, south of Denver. -Near Trinidad is a gray sandstone of great beauty, and the Amago stone, -which is used for the Denver Postoffice, is a favorite. - -In stone for decorative purposes also, Colorado is plentifully -supplied. Specimens of marble from the vicinity of Redstone show -characteristics as beautiful as are seen in the finest Italian marble -found at Carrara. - -Besides the marble for building there are also vast beds of the purest -white marble, which will soon be placed on the market for statuary -purposes. - -Vast deposits of granite are to be found in many different sections of -the state. In Clear Creek County, about Silver Plume and Georgetown, -there are mountains of granite. In the southern part of the state -deposits are found which are used extensively for monumental purposes, -and great quantities of this granite are shipped out of the state. - -Although only a limited amount of work in the way of development and -seeking markets has been done for Colorado stone, the value of the -sales is already an appreciable source of revenue. - -Statistically, Colorado ranks first in the United States as to the -yield of gold and silver; first in the area of land under irrigation; -first as to the quality of wheat, potatoes, and melons, and as to -the percentage of sugar in the sugar beet. The state ranks fifth in -coal and iron; sixth in live stock, and eighth in agriculture. It is -true, however, that irrigated agriculture is considered to be the -most important interest in Colorado. The Centennial State is not, -primarily, as has often been supposed, a mining state; the mines, rich -and varied in products as they are, offer yet a value secondary to that -of agriculture. A mine is always an uncertainty. A rich pocket may be -found that is an isolated one and leads to nothing of a permanently -rich deposit. A vast outlay of time and expensive mechanism can be -made that will not result in any returns. An apparently rich mine may -suddenly come to an end; the miner may have reason to believe that -if he could go down some thousands of feet he would again strike the -rich vein; he may do this at great cost of machinery and labor only -to find that the vein has totally disappeared, or does not exist. All -these and many other mischances render mining something very far from -an exact science,--something, indeed, totally incalculable, even to -the specialists and experts,--while agriculture is an industry whose -conditions render it within reasonable probabilities of control and -calculation. The great problem which continues to confront Colorado, -and to a far greater extent Arizona, is the more complete understanding -of what Prof. Elwood Mead, the government expert in national irrigation -problems, calls "the duty of water" and the conditions which influence -it as a basis for planning the larger and costlier works which must be -built in the future. - -"One of the leading objects of expert irrigation investigation is to -determine the duty of water," says Professor Mead, and he adds: - - "In order to do this it is necessary to deal with a large range - of climatic conditions, and to study the influence of different - methods of application and the requirements of different crops. - Farmers need an approximate knowledge of the duty of water in order - to make intelligent contracts for their supply. It is needed by - the engineer and investors in order to plan canals and reservoirs - properly. Without this knowledge every important transaction in - the construction of irrigation works, or in the distribution of - water therefrom, is very largely dependent on individual judgment - or conjecture.... In constructing reservoirs it is as necessary to - know whether they will be filled in a few years by silt as to know - that the dam rests on a solid foundation; and it is as desirable to - provide some means for the removal of this sedimentary accumulation - as it is to provide an adequate waste way for floods." - -The problems of irrigation are evidently highly complicated ones. There -are large tracts of irrigated land selling at three hundred dollars an -acre which, fifty years ago, were held as worthless desert regions. The -value of water rights has risen from four to thirty-five dollars an -acre. The Platte River and its tributaries, alone, irrigate one million -nine hundred and twenty-four thousand four hundred and sixty-five -acres. In the South Platte the average flow of water is two thousand -seven hundred and sixty-five feet a second. The North Platte and its -tributaries irrigate about nine hundred thousand acres. There are now -over two million acres in Colorado under actual irrigation, with an -agricultural population of some one hundred and fifty thousand, with a -total income of over thirty millions. The agricultural population is -increasing so rapidly that the day cannot be distant when it will reach -a million, with a total production of more than one hundred and fifty -million dollars. It is believed that an expenditure of forty millions -in irrigation at the present time would immediately result in an -increment of from two hundred to three hundred millions. The irrigation -bill that passed Congress in 1904 proved of the most beneficial nature -to Colorado; not only for its immediate effects, but for the promise -it implied and the confidence inspired in the immediate future. The -encouragement of irrigation in Colorado is the influence that enlarges -and develops the agricultural efforts, promoting the growing industry -of beet sugar and extending all resources. Beyond the material results -there lie, too, the most important social conditions of the greater -content and industry of the people and the corresponding decrease of -tendencies toward anarchy and disorder. - -In the quarter of a century--with the sixth year now added--since -Colorado became a state there has passed over twenty million acres of -government lands into the individual ownership of men whose capital, -for the most part, consisted solely of the horses and wagon that they -brought with them. Of this vast area there are some two and a half -million acres under agricultural cultivation, which are assessed at -a valuation of some twenty-five millions. The Boston and Colorado -smelter, established in 1873, has produced a valuation in gold, silver, -and copper of nearly ninety-six millions. In the year of 1905 the -Colorado mines,--gold, silver, lead, copper, and zinc,--all told, -produced nearly ninety million dollars. - -The population of Colorado is increasing rapidly, not only by the -stream of immigration that pours in of those who come _con intentione_, -but to a considerable degree by those who come only as tourists and -visitors, and who become so fascinated with Colorado's charm, and so -impressed with her rich and varied resources, that they remain. The -development of this state is one of the most remarkable and thrilling -pages in American history. It is the story of personal sacrifice, -personal heroism, personal devotion to the nobler purposes and ideals -of life that no one can read unmoved. - -"There can be no backward movement, not even a check in the steady -tramp of such a conquering army," said the "Denver Republican" -editorially. "Before it, mountains melt into bars of gold, of silver, -of copper, lead, zinc, and iron. It passes over virgin soil, and behind -it spring up fields of grain and groves of fruit. It brings coal from -distant fields, rocks from far-away hills, and its artisans mould and -weld and send out tools of trade and articles of merchandise to all the -world. - -"It pushes the railroads it needs to where it needs them, and the world -comes to marvel at its audacity. It finds to-day what yesterday it -needed and to-morrow it must have. It waits only the world's needs or -pleasures to find yet other ways to supply them." - -The prosperity of Colorado is a remarkable fact in our national -history. By some untraced law, defects, faults, misfortunes, or crimes -are always made more prominent than virtue and good fortune. The crime -is telegraphed everywhere, the good deed is passed over in silence--as -a rule. And so the strikes, and the outlawry, and the discords and -troubles of Colorado have been very widely heralded, while there -has been less general recognition of the firm and just governmental -authority that has held these outbreaks in check, and has almost -succeeded in ending them entirely. - -In general aspects and conveniences the towns and cities are under -excellent municipal regulations. Leadville, formerly one of the most -lawless of great mining camps, is to-day a peaceful and prosperous city -on a great trans-continental highway. The Western towns begin with -wide, clean, beautiful streets. They begin with the most tasteful -architecture. It may not be the most expensive or the most colossal, -but it is beautiful. - -Northern Colorado is in many respects a distinctive region of itself. -It offers rich agricultural facilities; the beet sugar factories at -Greeley are making it a commercial centre; the electric trolley line -which will soon connect Greeley with Denver will multiply the homes -and settlements within this distance of fifty miles, and this part -of Colorado is enriched with great coal fields. The latter promise -not merely their own extension of industries in digging the coal and -putting it on the market, but they also indicate another and far more -important result, which stimulates the scientific imagination,--that of -making Northern Colorado a power centre whose strength can be applied -in a variety of ways and transmitted over a large area of country. For -more than two years the Government has been conducting a series of -experiments in a very thorough manner, endeavoring to ascertain the gas -values of the great lignite coal fields between Boulder and Denver. It -has been discovered that the converting of the coal into gas gives it -double the efficiency for use as a motor power for engine or for fuel -than can be gained from the coal in its natural state. A ton of coal -converted into gas will, as gas, give twice the power that the coal -would have yielded, and give the same power that two tons of coal, that -has not been converted into gas, would afford. In order, however, -to produce this power economically, it must be done at the point of -mining. It is there that the gas producers must be located; and from -these points the gas can be transported in pipes, or can be converted -into electricity and sent by wires at far less cost than would be that -of sending the coal itself by freight. These discoveries not only -suggest that this region in Colorado is destined in the near future -to become a power centre which will be tapped from the surrounding -country for a great distance in all directions, and will thus render -Boulder one of the most important of Western cities; but they also -suggest the evident tendency of the age toward intensity rather than -immensity,--toward the concentration of energy in the most ethereal -form rather than its diffusion through large and clumsy masses of -material. - -Colorado contains over twenty-five thousand square miles of coal -fields, distributed over the state, with an average annual product of -over seven million tons. No other corresponding area in the entire -world exceeds Colorado in its great storage of coal, and the state -ranks as one of the first in the production of iron. - -There are already fifteen beet sugar factories in operation, -representing investments amounting to over twelve million dollars, -and which are estimated to have produced, in 1906, an aggregate of -some two hundred and twenty thousand pounds of sugar, the percentage -of saccharine matter being higher than that of the sugar beet of -California. - -[Illustration: SULTAN MOUNTAIN] - -Statistically, Colorado ranks first in irrigation, and there are some -eighteen thousand miles of irrigating canals already in operation, with -the system being so rapidly extended that it almost outruns the pace of -calculation. Three million acres are under cultivation in Colorado, and -two million eight hundred and fifty thousand acres are irrigated; the -storage reservoirs already constructed are sufficient to place another -million of acres under cultivation. This irrigated land sells from -sixty to one hundred dollars per acre. Colorado has a reputation for -being a great potato state, and in the year 1905 the town of Greeley -alone shipped over three hundred thousand dollars' worth of potatoes, -while tomatoes are a feature often yielding ninety dollars to the acre, -and celery has been estimated to yield one hundred and fifty dollars an -acre. There are tracts of from two to three thousand acres devoted to -peas alone, producing forty to fifty thousand cans; and asparagus grows -with great success. - -Colorado is a fruit country offering the best of conditions. The -peaches of Southern Colorado lead the world in flavor, beauty, and -size; the canteloupe flourishes with such extraordinary vitality that -it often yields a revenue of fifty dollars an acre; and the watermelon -also grows in unusual perfection. The valley of the Arkansas River is -the great region for producing melons, and Colorado exports these to -New York, Philadelphia, Chicago, and St. Louis. Apples, plums, and -pears grow with equally bounteous success, and there are fruit farms -that with their orchards and small fruits sometimes realize fifty -thousand dollars a year, when the season is a good one and the market -conditions favorable. The seasons of irrigated land are largely under -control, and surpass those regions which are at the mercy of excessive -rains or of droughts. So the law of compensation still obtains. The -resources of horticulture, alone, in Colorado are very important, and -they form one of the most alluring features of this beautiful and -richly bountiful state. - -In the way of crops, alfalfa takes the lead in Colorado, as wheat -does in Kansas. It requires the very minimum of care; the land being -once planted with alfalfa, there is need only of turning on the -irrigation, and mowing it, at the right time. Alfalfa produces three -crops a year, and yields from one to two tons per acre. It sells at -from three to ten dollars a ton, and this makes a revenue quite worth -considering. The difficulties encountered everywhere in Colorado, in -every branch of industry, or in domestic work, are those of securing -labor. Wages are high in every conceivable line of work, but to a -large extent the labor and service, even when procured, is of a very -poor order. In many of the larger hotels employés are often kept -on the pay-roll for two months at a time when not needed, simply -because it is impossible to fill their places when the need comes. -From requirements of the seamstress, the laundress, the cook, the -maid, the farmer's working-men, or the employés in almost any line -of work, the same difficulty exists. Much is heard regarding strikes -and other forms of the eternal conflict between labor and capital; -and yet the high rates paid, the concessions constantly made to the -demands of employés, the conditions provided for them, would seem, at -a superficial glance, to be such as to bridge over every difficulty. -Domestic service is something that presents the greatest problem on the -part of the employer. If there is so large a number of "the unemployed" -in the East, why should not the conditions balance themselves and this -superfluous element find good conditions for living in Colorado? This -question involves the problem of economics, with which these pages have -nothing to do; but no traveller, no sojourner, can linger in Colorado -who is not simply lost in wonder that the varied work that is waiting, -with the most liberal payments for the worker, and the multitude of -workers in the East who need the liberal payment, cannot, by some law -of elective affinity, be brought together. - -When it is realized that the Rocky Mountains occupy in Colorado -more than five times the entire space of the Alps in Europe, their -importance in climatic influence as well as in scenic magnificence -can be understood. The forests of Colorado are found on the mountains -and foothills. The heights are covered with a dense growth of pine -woods, while in lower ranges abound the silver spruce and the cedar. -Colorado has a state forestry association which aims to secure as a -reservation all forests above the altitude of eight thousand five -hundred feet, as this preservation is considered most important to the -water supply. In the Alps there are nine peaks over fourteen thousand -feet in height; in the Rocky Mountains, within the limits of Colorado -alone, there are forty-three peaks, each one of which exceeds in height -the Jungfrau. There are in Colorado more than thirty towns, each of -which is the theatre of active progress, and each of which lies at an -altitude exceeding that of the pass of St. Bernard. The sublime caņons -and gorges are eloquent of the story of Titanic forces which rent the -mountains apart. The vast plateaus were once the bed of inland seas. -In the caņon of Grand River towering walls rise to the height of half -a mile, in sheer precipitous rock, for a distance of some sixteen -miles. The strata of these rocks are distinctly defined, and the play -of color is rich and fantastic. The vast walls are in brilliant hues -of red and amber and green and brown,--the blending of color lending -its enchantment to the marvellous scene. Each caņon has its own -individuality. No one repeats the wild charm of another. Excursions -abound. There is "the loop," an enchanting mountain ride made from -Denver within one day for the round trip; the "Rainbow" tour, and -others, besides that of the "circle" already described. In each and all -these journeys the route is often on the very verge of the abyss, and -the sublimities, the splendor of coloring, exceed any power of language -to suggest. - -In Northwestern Colorado, along the White River and northward, lies -the sportsman's paradise, now reached only by a stage drive of from -forty-five to ninety miles from the little town of Rifle on the "scenic -route" of the Denver and Rio Grande, beyond Glenwood Springs. Trapper's -Lake and the Marvine lakes are well known, and the Marvine Hunting -Lodge is a favorite resort of English tourists. - -Estes Park, some seventy miles from Denver, a favorite summer resort, -is a long, narrow plateau of two or three miles in width and fifteen -in length, a mile and a half above sea level, and enclosed in mountain -walls that tower above the park from two to seven thousand feet. A -swift stream, well stocked with trout, runs through the park. The -four great systems of parks divide Colorado into naturally distinct -localities: North Park, with an area of twenty-five hundred square -miles; Middle Park, with its three thousand; the smaller South Park -of one thousand; and San Luis, with over ninety-four hundred square -miles,--all, in the aggregate, presenting a unique structural plan. -Every journey in Colorado has its vista of surprise. No artist can -paint its panoramas. Every traveller in this Land of Enchantment must -realize that its exhilaration cannot be decanted in any form. It is a -thing that lies in character, moulding life. - -Colorado is the Land of Achievement. It offers resources totally -unsurpassed in the entire world for an unlimited expanse. These -resources await only the recognition of him who can discern the -psychological moment for their development. That nothing is impossible -to him who wills is one of the eternal verities, and even the expert -census taker, or the supernatural tax collector whom nothing escapes, -might search in vain, within the limits of the splendid Centennial -State, for any man who fails to will. The resplendence of this state -of stars and sunshine is due to this blaze of human energy. The -Coloradoans are the typical spirits who are among those elect - - "... who shall arrive - Prevailing still; - Spirits with whom the stars connive - To work their will." - - - - -CHAPTER V - -THE COLORADO PIONEERS - - "_Around the man who seeks a noble end - Not angels, but divinities attend._" - - "_In the deep heart of man a poet dwells - Who all the day of life his summer story tells; - Scatters on every eye dust of his spells, - Scent, form, and color: to the flowers and shells - Wins the believing child with wondrous tales; - Touches a cheek with colors of romance, - And crowds a history into a glance; - Gives beauty to the lake and fountain, - Spies over-sea the fires of the mountain; - When thrushes ope their throat, 'tis he that sings, - And he that paints the oriole's fiery wings. - The little Shakespeare in the maiden's heart - Makes Romeo of a plough-boy on his cart; - Opens the eye to Virtue's starlike meed - And gives persuasion to a gentle deed._" - - EMERSON - - -Not even the starry splendor of Colorado skies or the untold magic -of the atmosphere vibrating with unwritten music, pictorial with -such scenes as no artist ever put on canvas; not even the scientific -achievements in feats of civil and electrical engineering; not even any -advancement of the arts and the development of industries, commerce, or -economics that bring the general life into increasing harmony with the -physical environment,--none of these things, important and significant -as they are, touch the profoundest interest of Colorado. For this -supreme interest is that of the noble men and women whose lives have -left to the state the legacy of their hopes, their efforts, their -earnestness, and their faith. "Much is made of the Pilgrim Fathers who -landed on Plymouth Rock," editorially remarked the "Denver Republican" -in an article on "Pioneers' Day," in June of 1906; "and if there had -been phonographs in those days to preserve the record of the speech of -one of those old fugitives from European persecution, with what delight -the men and women of this generation would listen to the tones which -come from the instrument! But, after all, were the Pilgrim Fathers, -canonized by nearly three hundred years of tradition, any braver, any -more venturesome, any more worthy of honor, than the pioneers who -fought Indians and struggled against adverse fortune of every kind -while they laid in fear and hope the foundations of this great state?" - -Among the poems of Walt Whitman is one entitled "The Beginners," which -interprets a high quality of life. The lines are as follows: - - "How they are provided for upon the earth (appearing at intervals): - How dear and dreadful they are to the earth: - How they inure to themselves as much as to any--what a paradox appears - this age: - How people respond to them, yet know them not: - How there is something relentless in their fate, all times: - How all things mischoose the object of their adulation and reward, - And how the same inexorable price must still be paid for the same great - purchase." - -The price was paid by the pioneers of Colorado. They poured out -lavishly all their hope, their indomitable energy, their patience, -which was faith, as well. They planted, knowing that not to themselves -would come the harvest. They builded that those yet to come might -have shelter. They gave to Colorado such an endowment of potent -but invisible force that its momentum pervades the air to-day. The -accelerated ratio of power with which spiritual forces proceed defies -even the ablest of the statisticians. - -In all the chapters of American history there are none more thrilling -than the story of the early life in Colorado; there are no chapters -that more vividly demonstrate the absolutely present and practical aid -of the divine guidance of God acting through His messengers,--those who -have lived on earth and have gone on into the life more abundant. - -The lives of the remarkable men and women who have been canonized by -the church have left the world the better for their being and humanity -the richer for the inheritance of their experience. Their history is -not to be held merely as tradition or as superstition. Let one visit -in Italy Assisi, the home of St. Francis; Siena, the home of St. -Catherine, and follow the footsteps of others whose names enrich the -church calendar, to their homes and haunts, and their record becomes -vivid and vitalized as, to a stranger visiting Boston, might become -the footsteps of her noble and consecrated lives which are yet almost -within universal personal remembrance: the lives of Lydia Maria Child, -William Lloyd Garrison, Emerson, Whittier, Lucy Stone, Lowell, Mary A. -Livermore, James Freeman Clarke, and Phillips Brooks,--men and women -whom Boston may well hold as her prophets and her saints. They, too, -were of the order of "The Beginners." They sowed the seeds of the -higher life. They were receptive to all high counsels from the ethereal -world, from the divine realms; they listened to great truths which the -multitude did not hear, and they gave it anew by voice and by pen, till -all the world might hear and read and receive it. They were, indeed,-- - - "God's prophets of the Beautiful." - -Such persons were living a twofold life during their entire earthly -pilgrimage, and we may well recall their lives and link them with those -of the great and the holy men and women of all ages and all climes. - -The pathfinders of human progress do not live for personal ease,-- - - "The hero is not fed on sweets." - -These are royal natures, who come into the world not to enjoy ease and -prosperity, but who bring with them the high destiny of sacrifice. -Their lives are companioned with struggle and conflict. Of such -experiences as theirs well might be asked the question so impressively -conveyed in these noble lines by America's great woman poet,--our poet -who sang the song of the nation's "Battle-Hymn,"--Julia Ward Howe: - - "What hast thou for thy scattered seed, - O Sower of the plain? - Where are the many gathered sheaves - Thy hope should bring again?" - "The only record of my work - Lies in the buried grain." - - "O Conqueror of a thousand fields! - In dinted armor dight, - What growths of purple amaranth - Shall crown thy brow of might?" - "Only the blossom of my life - Flung widely in the fight." - - "What is the harvest of thy saints, - O God! who dost abide? - Where grow the garlands of thy chiefs - In blood and sorrow dyed? - What have thy servants for their pains?" - "This only--to have tried." - -These Shining Ones are on earth to serve as co-workers with the divine -power; to serve through good fortune or ill fortune; through evil -report or good report,--still to serve; still to follow The Gleam. -These are the men who - - "... make the world within their reach - Somewhat the better for their being - And gladder for their human speech." - -The names of many of these heroic pioneers of Colorado may be unwritten -save in the pages of the Recording Angel; but they live and are -immortal in the influence they have left as a heritage to succeeding -generations, in the trains of thought and purposes they initiated, -and in all that potent power of generous aims and noble ideals,--for -all advancing civilization rests on lofty ideals. "While the basis of -civilization must be material," says the Rev. Dr. Charles Gordon Ames -of Boston, "its life must be spiritual. Its end and object must be the -soul, and not the body; and it will provide all best things for the -body, that the soul may be worthily housed and served. The higher and -chief interests of society will always be intellectual, affectional, -aspirational--human and humane. The true, the beautiful, and the -good--almost unknown to the barbarian, and often mocked at by the -Philistines of modern society--will be sought for as men seek for gold -and pearls of great price. Wealth will bring its offering to the altars -of education and art and worship. Science, as it searches the worlds of -matter and of mind, will find new and sacred parables and gospels of -grace. Learning will be a priestess of truth. The imagination of man -will wander and wander in the wide creation, free, fearless, and glad, -knowing that the Father's house is everywhere, and that his child may -be everywhere at home." - -In many of the pioneer households of Colorado, whether those of -plenty or of privation, the children had the inestimable advantage of -the refined and beautiful atmosphere of a home in which high ideals -and lofty devotion to intellectual progress and spiritual culture -prevailed. If schools were insufficient, there were the trained -educational methods of both the father and the mother under which they -were reared and taught; and poverty of purse cannot greatly matter -where there is no poverty of the spirit. - -Well may these pioneers of Colorado be held as belonging to that order -of humanity which the poet calls "The Beginners." Some of them were -unlettered and untaught save in the great school of life itself; some -of them were rich in learning and culture; but they all shared in -common a devotion to progress differing only in degree or conception: -they shared common sacrifices; they gave their best energies to the -development of a great and beautiful state whose increasing rate of -progress is to them an immortal monument. These leaders of humanity -whom the poet so finely characterizes as "The Beginners" are an order -of people always appearing on earth. They are of those who hear the -Song in the air and behold the Star in the sky. They are the persons -who discern--and follow--The Gleam. Their lives are rich in service -and sacrifice. Their kingdom is not of this world. Their lives are not -unfrequently cheerless and cold, but on their altar fires glows the -living coal sent down from heaven. They fast that others may feast. -They accept privations that others may revel in possessions. They pay -the inexorable price for the same great purchase. They are those who -are sent on earth peculiarly set apart to co-operate with God in the -larger fulfilment of the divine laws. They pay the inexorable price of -toil and labor and sorrow and sacrifice. They rise into the everlasting -triumph and the beauty and the joy of spirituality of life. They give -all for this; they find all in it. But let no one resign his hopes or -his dreams. Let no one doubt, for an instant, that all of goodness and -beauty and sweetness and joy that he longs for is on its way toward -him. It is only a question of time. Let him be patient, which is not a -mere passive and negative condition, but one full of intense activities -and serene poise; let him be patient and believing, and make room in -his life for that immortal joy which no man taketh from him. - -The town of Greeley, with its felicitous location midway between the -two state capitals, Denver and Cheyenne, fifty miles from each, and -which is already the principal town of Northern Colorado as Pueblo is -of the southern part of the state, has a romantic and thrilling story -connected with its founding. In the history of Colorado, among the -many men whose lives stand out in noble pre-eminence, was that of the -founder of Greeley, Hon. Nathan Cook Meeker, whose personal life is -inseparably associated with the interesting town which owes to him its -origin. - -The Meekers trace their ancestry to men who went to England from -Antwerp about 1500. In 1639 Robert and William Meeker came to this -country and settled in New Haven. Thirty years later William Meeker -removed to New Jersey, and the town of Elizabeth was founded by him -and named for his wife. He was a leader in the affairs of the day, -held prominent office, and in 1690 he died, leaving the old Meeker -homestead in Newark, New Jersey, which is still in the possession of -his descendants. One of his sons was Joseph Meeker, also prominent -in promoting the conditions of progress, and he was the grandfather -of Nathan Cook Meeker, the founder of Greeley, who inherited the -qualities that have made the family a marked one in America. When he -was but seventeen he carried on an extensive correspondence with Henry -Clay, John Tyler, George D. Prentice, and other noted men of the day, -discussing with them subjects of importance, and he was a contributor -even in these early years to the "Louisville Journal," then edited -by George D. Prentice, and now the "Courier-Journal," edited by the -brilliant Colonel Henry Watterson; to the New Orleans "Picayune," and -other leading papers. Even in his early youth Mr. Meeker seems to have -been a man of perpetual aspiration and honorable ambition carried out -to achievement, and by means of his own energy and persistence he -graduated in 1840 from Oberlin College, became a teacher, and later -(for literary work was his dominant gift) became a regular contributor -to the "New York Mirror," edited by N. P. Willis, the poet, and the -most brilliant man of letters of his day. Mr. Meeker wrote both prose -and poetry,--essays, romance, and verse alike flowing from his facile -pen. He is the author of three books, one of which he dedicated to -President Pierce, and which is in the Boston Public Library among the -choice and rare works not allowed for general circulation but kept -intact for the special use of scholars and researchers. He became one -of the leading writers of the day on sociology, advancing many ideas -which are to-day maintained by thoughtful students of the questions -involved in this subject. - -Founding towns seemed to "run in the family," and even as his -great-grandfather founded the town of Elizabeth, New Jersey, so Nathan -Cook Meeker felt the impulse to stamp his own strong and progressive -individuality on new communities. He became the secretary and librarian -(in 1844) of the Ohio Trumbull Phalanx, a colony founded to realize in -practical form the theories of Fourier, and somewhat similar to the -famous Brook Farm experiment. Mr. Meeker also co-operated in founding -the Western Reserve Institute, of which, many years afterward, Hon. -James A. Garfield became president. - -About this time he married Arvilla Delight, a daughter of Levi Smith of -Connecticut and a descendant of Elder Brewster; a woman whose singular -force, exaltation, and beauty of character may be traced through a -notable New England ancestry. The family soon removed to the Western -Reserve in Ohio. Mrs. Meeker had been known in her sweet girlhood as -the beauty of the town. She was a woman of exceptional refinement -and culture; for many years a teacher, and, more than all, of a -spirituality of character that added to her life its dignity and grace. - -The spell of destiny, the burden always laid upon "The Beginners," -seemed to be on Nathan Cook and Arvilla Delight Meeker; for no history -of the work of the husband could be written that did not include that -of the wife. Like Nathaniel and Sophia Hawthorne, their lives were -conjoined in that perfect mutual response of spiritual sympathy which -alone makes the mystic marriage a divine sacrament. - -Horace Greeley became interested in Mr. Meeker's work and invited him -to a place on the editorial staff of "The Tribune," a position which he -filled with conspicuous ability for several years; but in common with -all idealists, Mr. Meeker was haunted and beset by his visions of a -more Utopian future for humanity. A Colorado journal, recently giving -some reminiscences of the life of its great citizen, said: - - "In the fall of 1869 Mr. Meeker made a trip to the West for the - 'Tribune,' writing interesting letters by the way. On his return - to New York he was full of the idea of establishing a colony in - Colorado. He mentioned his ambition to John Russell Young, who - talked it over with Mr. Greeley, and that great man, at the first - opportunity, said to the returned correspondent: 'I understand you - wish to lead a colony to Colorado.' When Mr. Meeker answered 'Yes,' - Greeley added, 'I think it would be a great success. Go ahead; "The - Tribune" will stand by you.' - - "With such encouragement Mr. Meeker spent the following day in - writing the article announcing his purpose and outlining the plan - which was afterwards adopted as the constitution of the colony. - Mr. Greeley suggested a few minor changes, after which the article - was printed and kept in type for a week, in order, as its author - said, 'that there might be due reflection and no haste.' It was - published in the 'Tribune' of December 14, 1869, with an editorial - indorsement of the plan and its originator. Nine days later the - colony was organized, and yet in that short time more than a - thousand letters had been received in answer to the article. On - the 15th of the next April the certificate of organization of 'The - Union Colony of Greeley' was filed for record." - -In less extended detail some outline of the life of the founder of -Greeley, the "Garden City" of Colorado, has already been narrated by -the writer in a previous book;[1] but no adequate reference can be -made to the state in which Mr. Meeker's life and work remains as so -remarkable a contribution and so fundamental a factor, which does not -present in full the story of his relation to its development; and the -matter is thus presented even at the risk of some minor repetitions. - -In the spring of 1870 Mr. Meeker led his colony to Colorado. The -colonists wished to give the town the name of its founder, but he -himself insisted that it should bear the name of Greeley, after the -great editor of the "Tribune," of whose staff he was still a member. -Into all the sacrifice and the hardships of this pioneer life Mrs. -Meeker, a woman gently born and bred, entered with the utmost heroism. -From the very inception the undertaking was a signal success. But Mr. -Meeker conceived of still another extension of his activities in the -problem then so prominently before the country,--the civilization of -the Indians. He was appointed agent of the northern Utes, in possession -of the great park region of the Rocky Mountains, on White River. To -it he went in the same spirit in which General Armstrong entered on -his work at Hampton. He had matured certain theories regarding the -proper treatment of the Indians, in bringing them within the pale of -the civilized arts,--theories so wise, so just, so humane, that they -might be studied with advantage. These theories he put to the test. His -youngest daughter, a beautiful and gifted girl, opened a free school -for teaching the Indians. His wife united with him in every kindly and -gracious act by which he strove to win the confidence of the race. -This kindness and gentleness was unmeasured. The family lived a life -of constant sacrifice and effort for the education and training of -the Utes. But the Indian nature is one that wreaks its revenge,--not -necessarily on the aggressor, but on the first comer. Other agents had -been lax, and a number of causes of discontent to which allusion cannot -here be made fanned the smouldering fire. Their chief complaints were -that they were required to work, and to abandon a bit of pasturage, -only a few acres, for the new agency grounds and gardens. Events drew -on like the fates in a Greek tragedy, and on the morning of September -29, 1879, Mr. Meeker was cruelly massacred. - -The little town of Meeker marks the site of the Meeker massacre. Here -is a little village of a thousand inhabitants, located on White River, -among the most beautiful of the mountain ranges,--the location being -very much like that of Florence, in Italy,--which is the centre of a -very rich agricultural and grazing region. Meeker is now forty-five -miles from a railroad, the nearest station being Rifle, on the Denver -and Rio Grande, a few miles from Glenwood Springs; but the Moffet road -brings to it railroad connection with Denver. There is an extensive -stage line of over one hundred miles, starting from Rifle and going -on through Meeker up into the mountains, where the hunting attracts a -great number of travellers, and especially many Englishmen. It is in -this region that President Roosevelt's happy hunting-grounds lie, and -he is a familiar and favorite figure in Meeker. - -There is a little gray-stone Episcopal church among other churches that -adorn this town, which has laid out a handsome park and which has the -perpetual adornment of the beautiful river that flows through it. The -mountains about supply streams that make irrigation easy, and the great -fields of wheat, potatoes, and alfalfa are fertile and prosperous. -Irrigation makes it everywhere possible to control the climatic -conditions. - -Meeker is the county seat of Rio Blanco County, in which uranium has -been discovered in two different places; and two oil wells, each at a -cost of four thousand dollars, a creamery, costing nearly six thousand -dollars, and water-works at a cost of sixty thousand dollars, have been -established within the past two years. Fifteen reservoirs and eighty -miles of irrigation ditches were constructed in 1905, and in that year -was harvested, in this county, a quarter of a million bushels of wheat, -oats, and rye. - -The basis on which Greeley was founded is thus outlined in the official -documents drawn up by Nathan Cook Meeker: - - "I propose to unite with proper persons in the establishment of a - Union colony in Colorado territory. A location which I have seen - is well watered with streams and springs; there are beautiful - pine groves, the soil is rich, the climate healthful, grass will - keep stock the year round, coal and stone are plentiful, and a - well-travelled road runs through the property." - -Mr. Meeker proceeded to note the cost of the land,--eighteen dollars -for every one hundred and sixty acres,--and he especially called -attention--for he had the poet's eye--to the grandeur of the Rocky -Mountain scenery, and he added: - - "The persons with whom I would be willing to associate must be - temperance men and ambitious to establish good society, and among - as many as fifty, ten should have as much as ten thousand dollars - each, or twenty should have five thousand dollars each, while - others may have from two hundred dollars to one thousand dollars - and upward. For many to go so far without means could only result - in disaster." - -The practical wisdom of this clause will be appreciated. The true -idealist is the most practical and wisest of counsellors. It is only -false idealism that leads to destruction. Mr. Meeker's idea was to -make the settlement a village, with ample building lots, and then to -apportion to each family from forty to one hundred and sixty acres -outside for agriculture. - -On such a basis as this the Union Colony of Greeley was founded. A -constitution was adopted that is a model of the condensation of the -duties of good citizenship. Industry, temperance, education, and -religion were the pillars on which the superstructure was raised. It -is little wonder that the social quality of Greeley to-day--thirty-six -years after its inauguration as a community--is of the highest type and -exceptional among all the cities of the United States. - -Irrigation was the first necessity. A canal thirty miles long was dug, -costing sixty thousand dollars. The Cache la Poudre was first examined -and then tapped to furnish water. The elevation of the surrounding high -bluffs secured the needed descent for the flow of water. The life began. - -Greeley is now a town of some seven thousand inhabitants; the seat of -the State Normal College, which its president, Dr. Z. X. Snyder, has -made one of the great educational institutions, not only of Colorado, -but of the United States; a college that draws students from almost -every section, even from New England, so able is President Snyder's -course of instruction and so admirable are the opportunities it -affords for subsequent connection with the fine public school system -in Colorado. A position in any of these offers a higher salary than -can be obtained in the East, to say nothing of many other advantages -associated with the work. Dr. Snyder was one of the eminent educators -of the East; and when some sixteen years since he accepted his present -responsible office, he brought to it the best traditions of Eastern -culture and united them with the zeal and freedom and infinite -energy of the West. The Normal campus of forty acres on high ground, -overlooking the town, with President Snyder's residence in the grounds -and other college buildings near, comprise a beautiful feature of -Greeley. The western view, both from the college and from the home of -President and Mrs. Snyder, over the mountain range including Long's -Peak, is one of almost incomparable beauty. The faculty of the State -Normal comprises thirty specialists; there is a library of thirty -thousand volumes; the laboratory has the latest scientific equipment -of the day; the art department and the music course are admirably -conducted; French, German, and Italian are taught according to the -latest language methods; and athletics, domestic science, nature -studies, all receive due recognition. The "Training School" of the -State Normal College has an attendance of nearly five hundred, and the -graduates of this institution begin work on salaries ranging from five -hundred to twenty-five hundred dollars annually. The tuition is free to -all citizens of Colorado. - -The many churches, the excellent public schools, the clubs and -societies for social enjoyment and improvement, indicate the high -quality of life in Greeley. There are three newspapers; and of these -the "Greeley Tribune," founded by Mr. Meeker and now under the able -editorship of Mr. C. H. Wolfe, has created for itself more than a -local reputation. Financially, Greeley stands well, with its several -banks and its solidity of resources. - -There is hardly a shabby house to be found in all the town, whether of -residence or business. Every building has a neat and thrifty aspect, -and the art of architecture has been especially studied, for almost -without exception every house, whether large or small, is tasteful and -attractive. A bay window is thrown out here, a little balcony there, -a piazza, a loggia, an oriel window, and the eye is gratified. But, -besides this dainty and tasteful architecture, the one great feature -of Greeley is her beautiful streets. These are due directly to the -taste and the direction of the founder, Mr. Meeker. The streets are one -hundred feet wide, lined invariably--every street in the town--with a -double row of shade trees, giving coolness, beauty, and contributing -much to the modification of the temperature. Every deed granted in -Greeley forbids the sale of any intoxicating liquor. There is not a -saloon in the place. There is not a loafer or a criminal, nor are there -any poor in the unfortunate sense of the large cities. No police are -needed. The jail is locally known as a mere ornamental appendage to the -fine forty thousand dollar courthouse. - -For many years it has been felt that some expression should be made in -honor of the memory of the founder of Greeley, and this has now taken -form in the project for the "Meeker Memorial Library," which is in -preparation. The beautiful young city is itself, however, the best -memorial of its noble founder. It is a living monument of perpetually -increasing greatness and beauty; and who to-day can wander under the -shade of the beautiful trees which in a double row line every street -and boulevard--trees planted in 1870 under Mr. Meeker's personal -superintendence--without hearing amid the rustle of their whispering -leaves the poet's words, that fall like a benediction: - - "Be of good cheer, brave spirit; steadfastly - Serve that low whisper thou hast served; for know, - God hath a select family of sons - Now scattered wide thro' earth, and each alone, - Who are thy spiritual kindred, and each one - By constant service to that inward law, - Is weaving the sublime proportions - Of a true monarch's soul. Beauty and strength, - The riches of a spotless memory, - The eloquence of truth, the wisdom got - By searching of a clear and loving eye - That seeth as God seeth. These are their gifts, - And Time, who keeps God's word, brings on the day - To seal the marriage of these minds with thine, - Thine everlasting lovers. Ye shall be - The salt of all the elements, world of the world." - -The glamour of romance can never fade from Colorado, whose entire -history is one of heroic deeds and splendid energy; but the primitive -stage of the state is already left far behind with the nineteenth -century. In its intellectual and scientific development the years of -the twentieth century have almost exceeded its twenty-four years -of life as a state in the nineteenth. The tide of immigration still -continues, but from being the objective point of mining activities -where fortune hunters rushed to find a royal road to riches, it is -now a state of agriculture and of commerce. Social conditions are -thus altered; and though some of these conditions are those of mining -regions, as in the Cripple Creek district, they have altered from the -typical Bret Harte mining-camp life to those of orderly progress,--to -the life dominated by twentieth-century ideals of humanity; the -life whose framework is seen in public-school systems, in religious -observance, in the liberal reading of periodical and other literature, -and in the maintenance of public libraries as a necessity in every -community. - -The dawn of literary and artistic development in Colorado is very -evident,--a dawn that is already of such radiant promise as to forecast -the day when this state shall contribute to our greatest national -literature. A large number of individual writers could already be named -whose work in books, magazine articles, and excellent journalism might -well be held as typical of the best culture of the entire country. The -first wild turmoil of a new and richly varied state has given way to -a prosperous, progressive commonwealth. Material progress must still -always precede the higher growth, yet the air is vital with ideas, -and the vision of Colorado is always toward the stars. The beauty -and majesty of the environment cannot but react upon the people. The -growth of women's clubs has been one steady factor of progress, with -most favorable effect on all the general life of intellectual and moral -advancement. The public libraries in every centre establish and develop -the reading habit. While a love for beauty is an element in human life, -the influence of the transcendent majesty and incomparable sublimity -of the Colorado scenery will continue to prove a source of inspiration -to the mental and moral life of the people. The changing colors of -the mountains are a constant delight. Colorado offers a perpetual -feast of beauty. Her resources are infinite. Colorado combines all -the exaltation of the untried with an abundance of the conveniences -and luxuries of the older civilization; and of this Centennial State -it is difficult to record facts and statistics that do not seem to -suggest the tales of a thousand nights. With resources and with scenic -loveliness which no language could exaggerate, it is still only to -those who themselves know and appreciate the grandeur of this state -that any interpretation of it will appear as rather within than as -at all beyond the limits of the most statistical and demonstrable -facts. The East has already outgrown the tradition that the entire -trans-Mississippi region is a howling wilderness. Colorado is no longer -as vague as is Calcutta to the average mind. Dr. Edward Everett Hale -exclaimed that he desired his sons to know that there was something in -the world besides Beacon Street, and this ambition has of late years -become too prevalent to leave even the extreme East in any absolute and -total ignorance of the wonderful West. Still it may be true that the -flying visions from Pullman-car windows are marvellously extended and -intensified by increasing familiarity with the almost incredibly swift -progress of this region. - -A typical illustration of the fallibility of human judgment is seen in -the attitude taken in 1838 by the great Daniel Webster on the floor of -the United States Senate against an appropriation for a post route west -of the Missouri River. - -"What do we want," said he, "of this vast worthless area,--this region -of savages and wild beasts, of deserts, shifting sands, and whirlwinds -of dust, of cactus and prairie dogs? To what use could we ever hope to -put these great deserts, or these endless mountain ranges, impregnable -and covered to their base with eternal snow? What use have we for such -a country? Mr. President, I will never vote one cent from the public -treasury to place the Pacific Coast one inch nearer Boston than it is -to-day." - -It is a far cry from this "vast worthless area," as Mr. Webster termed -it in 1838, to the grand and richly promising state of to-day, with its -splendid young cities where art and science unite with literature and -ethics in the rapid development of social progress; with its mountain -ranges climbed in palace cars; its electric transit and electric -lighting; its vivid and forceful achievements, that even in each -decade concentrate the progress of a century, as seen in the past. - -It is not a mere vagary, but rather a practical and momentous fact, -that Colorado is peculiarly the realm receptive to invisible potencies -and mental impressions. Science is now confronted with the question -as to whether thought and electricity may be identified as the same -force under different degrees of manifestation. "There is an elemental -essence--a strange living force--which surrounds us on every side, and -which is singularly susceptible to the influence of human thought," -says an English scientist, and he continues: "This essence responds -with the most wonderful delicacy to the faintest action of our minds -or desires; and this being so, it is interesting to note how it is -affected when the human mind formulates a definite thought or desire." -All the significance of a thousand years may be concentrated in an -instant's thought, as all the heat stored up in all the forests of the -world is concentrated in a small quantity of radium. Emerson embodies -this truth in the stanza: - - "His instant thought a poet spoke, - And filled the age his fame; - An inch of ground the lightning strook - But lit the sky with flame." - -It is intensity, not duration, that is of consequence, and that -determines results. To state that there is something in the Colorado -air that incites active and lofty thought; that uplifts the soul and -enables one to discern the practical processes for identifying the -most marvellous scenic grandeur of the civilized world with the most -advanced processes of applied industries, is to state a simple fact. -Phillips Brooks once said: - - "I know no ideal humanity that is not filled and pervaded with - the superhuman. God in man is not unnatural, but the absolutely - natural. That is what the incarnation makes us know.... The truths - of heaven and the truths of earth are in perfect sympathy.... The - needs of human nature are supreme, and have a right to the divinest - help." - -The early explorers and pioneers in Colorado felt this truth, so -finely stated by Bishop Brooks, even if they did not formulate it in -words. The apparently insuperable obstacles of a land where the desert -disputed the space with the Titanic mountain ranges piled against the -sky, incited them to effort rather than paralyzed their energy. It -is fitting that this most ideal state, rich in resources of almost -undreamed-of variety and importance, should present a significant -object lesson in the working out of the problem involved in the higher -civilization of the twentieth century. The future of Denver, of Pueblo, -Colorado Springs, Greeley, and other important centres, is a most -important part of the future of the nations. The Star of high destiny -shines on the Centennial State. - - - - -CHAPTER VI - -THE SURPRISES OF NEW MEXICO - - "_But my minstrel knows and tells - The counsel of the gods, - Knows of Holy Book the spells, - Knows the law of Night and Day,_ - - * * * * * - - _What sea and land discoursing say - In sidereal years._" - - EMERSON - - -New Mexico is the scene of surprises. Traditionally supposed to be -a country that is as remote as possible from the accepted canons of -polite society; that is also an arid waste whose temperature exceeds -the limits of any well-regulated thermometer,--it reveals itself -instead as a region whose temperature is most delightful, whose -coloring of sky and atmosphere is often indescribably beautiful, and -whose inhabitants include their fair proportion of those who represent -the best culture and intelligence of our country. New Mexico has a -mixed population. To a hundred and sixty thousand Americans there are a -hundred and twenty-five thousand of Spanish or Mexican descent; a few -hundred Chinese and Japanese, and some thirteen thousand Indians, who -are, however, peaceful and industrious, and a proportion of whom -have been educated in the Government schools for the Indians. - -[Illustration: ACOMA, NEW MEXICO] - -The altitude of New Mexico seldom falls to less than five thousand -feet, so that the air is cool and exhilarating. The rock formations -partake of the same rich hue that characterizes those in Colorado and -in Arizona, and as the soil is rich there is a continual play of color. -The scenery is one changeful, picturesque panorama of mountains, rock, -or walled caņons, vast mesas, uncanny buttes, and lava fields left by -some vanished volcanic fires. The ancient Indian pueblos are still -largely inhabited, and strange ruins of unknown civilizations add -their atmosphere of mystery. The mouldering remains of the old Pecos -church and the strange communistic dwellings in the old Pueblo de Taos; -the ruins of the fortress and the seven circular mounds, which were -the council-chambers and halls for mystic rites of the prehistoric -civilization; and the fabled site of the ancient Aztec city where -tradition says Montezuma was born,--all contribute to a unique interest -in this "land of the turquoise sky," as New Mexico is called. - -Acoma, the ancient pueblo perched on a perpendicular precipice four -hundred feet high, with its terraced dwellings of adobe, its gigantic -church, its reservoir cut out of solid rock, and its inhabitants with -their strange customs, is fairly accessible to the traveller from -Albuquerque by a drive of some twenty miles. Mr. Lummis calls it "the -most wonderful pueblo," and "the most remarkable city in the world," -as compared, of course, with other pueblos and ruined cities. Acoma has -a present population of some four hundred Indians, and its romantic -beauty of location is unparalleled. There are scientists who incline -to believe that the original Acoma was built on the top of the _Mesa -Encantada_,--the "Enchanted Mesa,"--a sheer, precipitous rock seven -hundred feet high which is now practically unscalable; although Mr. -F. W. Hodge, of the Bureau of Ethnology, achieved this apparently -impossible feat, and found what is, in his convictions, unmistakable -evidence of human habitation, supporting the traditions regarding this -colossal rock. Some mighty cataclasm of nature swept the approach away; -but if ever there were human habitations on the "Enchanted Mesa," the -period is lost in prehistoric ages. - -[Illustration: THE ENCHANTED MESA, NEW MEXICO] - -The colossal church in Acoma is a striking feature. Its walls are ten -feet in thickness and sixty feet high, and the church and yard in -which it stands consumed forty years in their construction. It was -only reached by rude stairs cut in the rock. Dim traditions, which are -perhaps hardly more than speculative theory, suggest that these steps -of approach were suddenly swept away by some convulsion of nature at -a time when the men of this prehistoric pueblo were away hunting, or -otherwise engaged in procuring means of sustenance, and that the women -and children were thus cut off from all supplies and aid and left to -starve. Mr. Lummis has a theory that seems to him possible, if not -probable, that there was a ledge of neighboring rocks which served as -ladders to the _Mesa Encantada_, and that these rocks were swept away -by some frightful storm, or some sudden convulsion of nature, during -the absence of the men; and that a new city--the present Acoma--was -then built on the lesser rock on which it now stands. Acoma was old -even when Coronado, in 1540, made his expedition through the country, -from which period the authentic history of New Mexico begins with the -meagre records of the heroic friars and the memorials of the Spanish -conquerors. Laguna, a pueblo founded in 1699, lies twenty miles from -Acoma on the Santa Fé route, of which it is one of the interesting -features. All these old Spanish missions, which are found in more or -less degrees of preservation in all this chain of pueblos in the valley -of the Rio Grande, contain ancient paintings and statues of saints. -Largely, the paintings are crude and worthless, but there exist those -that have legitimate claim to art as the work of Spanish artists not -unknown to fame. Among these is the painting of San José in the mission -at Acoma, a painting presented by Charles II of Spain. This mission -was founded by Friar Ramirez, who dedicated it "To God, to the Roman -Catholic Church, and to St. Joseph,"--who was the patron saint of this -pueblo. - -There is an amusing legend that Laguna, submerged in all manner of -disasters, looked on the prosperity of Acoma and ascribed it wholly to -the influence of this picture of the saint before which the people made -their daily adorations and laid their votive offerings. Laguna believed -that San José would invest it with the same felicities enjoyed by the -neighboring city, could they only secure the portrait, and their urgent -plea to borrow it for a time was granted by Acoma. Their confidence in -the saint was justified; peace and plenty again smiled on Laguna, and -they made their daily devotions before the great picture. At length, so -runs the legend, Acoma reminded Laguna that a loan was not a gift,--to -be held in perpetual fee, and demanded its return. The faithless people -of Laguna declared it was their own,--and the case actually went into -litigation and was tried in Court. Judge Kirby Benedict, after hearing -all the evidence, decided in favor of Acoma, but the picture had -mysteriously disappeared. The messengers sent from Acoma to bring the -sacred treasure at last discovered it under a tree half-way between -the two pueblos. They instantly recognized that the saint, rejoiced -at the righteous decision, had started on his homeward journey of his -own volition. The last one of the Franciscan friars to minister in New -Mexico was Padre Mariano de Jesus Lopez, whose work was in Acoma, the -"city in the sky." Of all the cliff-built cities, Acoma is the most -marvellous. Its terraced dwellings seem, as Mr. Lummis so graphically -says, to be "the castles of giants," for "the lapse of ages has carved -the rocks into battlements, buttresses, walls, columns, and towers, -and the view from this cloud-swept city is one never to be forgotten. -On this cliff the sand rises and falls like the billows of the sea." - -[Illustration: LAGUNA, NEW MEXICO, ON THE SANTA FÉ RAILROAD] - -No latter-day interest of contemporary life, either in the romantic -scenery or the potential development of New Mexico, can exceed the -richness of its prehistoric past and the marvels of this ancient -civilization that yet remain. Alluding to these wonderful monumental -remains, Colonel Max Frost, of Santa Fé, who knows his territory in -every aspect of its life and its attractions, says: - - "The Pajarito Cliff-dwellers' Park, the Chaco Caņon, the Gila - Caņon, western Valencia and Socorro counties abound in cliff and - communal buildings, the age of which has puzzled scientists, but - which are older than any other ruins on the American continent, and - probably in the world. The most accessible cliff-dwellers' region - is the Pajarito Park, only one day's overland trip from Santa Fé or - Espaņola, in which twenty thousand cliff-dwellings and caves are - situated within a comparatively small area. The scenery of this - natural park is superb; 'wonderful' is the only adjective that - will do justice to the caves in the cliffs, high and inaccessible - almost as eagles' nests, but showing many other signs of occupation - besides the peculiar picture writings in the soft volcanic tufa of - which the cliffs are composed. In addition to the cliffs, there are - remains of communal buildings of later occupation, some of them - containing as high as twelve hundred rooms. There are also burial - mounds with remains of ancient pottery. Along the eastern foot of - this steep plateau flows the Rio Grande and lie the villages of - San Ildefonso, Santa Clara, and San Juan, while to the west rise - the stupendous mountain masses of the Valles, the Cochiti and - Jemez ranges, with their deep forests and caņons, their famous hot - springs, their Indian villages, and their mines. Where else on - earth is there so much of the beautiful in scenery, of romance, - of historic monuments, of prehistoric remains, of the ancient, - the unique, the picturesque, the sublime, to be found as within a - radius of fifty miles of Santa Fé? One day's trip will take the - wanderer from the historic Old Palace and San Miguel Church in the - City of the Holy Faith, over the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo - range, from which rise in full view mountain peaks almost thirteen - thousand feet high, into the picturesque Tesuque Valley and by the - ancient Indian pueblo of Tesuque. The road winds through sandhills - that the air and the rain have cut into grotesque shapes, huge as - Titans and weird as the rock formations in the Garden of the Gods. - Then come once more fertile fields and the village of Cuymungue, - formerly an Indian pueblo, now a native settlement. Along the - Nambe River, with its grand falls, close by the Indian pueblo of - Nambe to the pueblo of San Ildefonso on the Rio Grande; then along - that river through the laughing Espaņola Valley, past the Black - Mesa, a famous Indian battleground, into the large Indian pueblo - of Santa Clara and its mission church to Santa Cruz, also with a - quaint and ancient church building, threads the wagon road across - the river into Espaņola. From there the road ascends the wildly - beautiful Santa Clara Caņon, along a rippling trout stream up to - the steep cliffs of the Puye and the Shufinne, with their hundreds - and thousands of prehistoric caves and communal buildings. And - all that in one day's journey overland! If the trip be prolonged - another day or two, the remarkable hot springs at Ojo Caliente and - the hot springs in the deep chasm of the Rio Grande at Wamsley's, - the Indian pueblos of Picuris and Taos, the finest trout streams - and best haunts of wild game, or the Jicarilla Indian Reservation, - as well as busy lumber and mining camps, can be visited. And that - is only in one direction from Santa Fé! Going south, one day's trip - will pass through the quaint settlements of Agua Fria, Cienega, - and Cieneguilla, by the Tiffany turquoise mines, the old mining - camp of Bonanza, the smelter at Cerrillos, the Ortiz gold placers, - worked a hundred years before gold was discovered in California and - still yielding gold dust and nuggets, the coal mines at Madrid, - where bituminous and anthracite coal have been mined from the same - hillside, the placer and gold mines of Golden and San Pedro, not to - speak of sheep and cattle ranches and the beautiful scenery of the - Cerrillos, Ortiz, San Pedro, and Sandia mountains. - - "Another trip of one day from Santa Fé will take the traveller - by the pueblo ruins of Arroyo Hondo over Apache hill, the - battlegrounds of Apache Springs, the interesting native settlement - of Caņoncito, over Glorieta Pass and the battlefield of Glorieta, - to the upper Pecos River, by the ancient and historic Pecos church - ruins, the village of Pecos, and through the most beautiful - summer-resort country in the Southwest, where trout streams babble - in every caņon and where from one summit can be surveyed the hoary - heads of eleven of the twelve highest peaks in New Mexico. - - "Another day's trip out of Santa Fé will take the visitor up the - rugged Santa Fé Caņon, by the large reservoir and the Aztec mineral - springs to the Scenic Highway, which crosses the Santa Fé range - into the upper Pecos Valley and unfolds at every step new mountain - views and panoramas magnificent beyond description. Nor do these - trips exhaust the interesting points in and about Santa Fé. Almost - every other town in the territory offers sights and scenes of equal - interest to the tourist and sightseer. - - "The prehistoric ruin of the Chaco Caņon and Pueblo Bonito, in - southeastern San Juan County, as well as those at Aztec, in the - same county, are more fully excavated than those of the Pajarito - Park, and in some respects are more palatial and more impressive. - They can best be reached from Gallup or Thoreau on the Santa Fé - Railway in McKinley County. - - "The prehistoric ruins on the Gila Forest Reserve, as well as those - in western Valencia and Socorro counties, have not been thoroughly - explored thus far, being distant from the highways of travel; - but on this very account they should have a special charm and - attraction for the student of archæology. - -[Illustration: CLIFF DWELLER RUINS, NEAR SANTA FÉ, NEW MEXICO] - -[Illustration: STONE TENT, CLIFF DWELLERS, NEW MEXICO] - - "Coming to more recent, although still ancient days, the ruins - of the Gran Quivira and of nearby abandoned pueblo villages, - between the Jumanes Mesa and the Mal Pais and Jornado del Muerto, - are of great historic interest. They are best reached from the - station of Willard at the junction of the Santa Fé Central and - Eastern Railway of New Mexico. Similar ruins are found in western - Valencia, Socorro, and other counties, and divide the interest of - the tourist with the many present-day Indian pueblos and Spanish - settlements boasting of considerable antiquity. The Zuņi, Navaho, - Jicarilla, and Mescalero Indian reservations are well worthy a - visit, and upon the first two named are many prehistoric ruins. - - "Foremost in interest and value in historic archæology are the - old mission churches of the Franciscans. In every occupied Indian - pueblo and at the site of almost every abandoned pueblo, there - is one of the monuments of those pioneers of Christianity and - civilization, the Franciscan Fathers. Many of these are in a good - state of preservation, while others are in ruins, but every one is - an object of historic interest. - - "The old mission church of San Diego, which is the oldest of the - California missions, was founded in 1769. It is almost a total - ruin; only the front remains in a good state of preservation. The - side walls are still standing, but no portions of the roof or - interior remain. This is the most venerable and venerated historic - monument in the state of California, and is annually visited by - thousands of tourists. It has stood for one hundred and sixty-four - years. It marks the beginning of civilization and Christianity - in California. And yet, in New Mexico, on the upper Pecos, - thirty-five miles west of Las Vegas, at the site of the abandoned - Pueblo of Cicuye, are the ruins of the old Pecos church. The church - is three hundred years old. It was nearly one hundred and fifty - years old when the San Diego mission was founded. It was projected - before the Spanish Armada was destroyed and antedates the coming of - the Mayflower and the settlement of Jamestown. All that is said of - the old Pecos church may be said of that of Jemez. They were built - at the same time. The one at Gran Quivira was founded in 1630, and - is a fairly well-preserved ruin. The churches at San Ildefonso and - Santa Clara are in a complete state of preservation. They are nine - years older than the oldest of the California ruins. The old San - Miguel mission in Santa Fé has been rebuilt. Its walls date from - 1650, the roof from 1694, or possibly a few years later. From the - old church at Algodones was taken a bell, cast in Spain in 1356, - and at the Cathedral at Santa Fé and other churches are ancient - relics and art treasures of old Spanish and Italian masters. These - are only a few examples selected at random from the large number - of ancient churches of equally great interest scattered over New - Mexico. Inscription Rock, on the old road to Zuņi, and every one of - the pueblos from Taos on the north to Isleta on the south, and from - the Rio Grande pueblos in the central part to Zuņi in the west, are - worthy of a visit, both for historic and present-day interest. - - "Nor is there any other building in this country to compare in - historic interest with the Old Palace at Santa Fé, which has been - more to New Mexico than Faneuil Hall to Massachusetts or Liberty - Hall to Pennsylvania, nor is there any other town in the United - States which offers so much of interest to the tourist as the city - of St. Francis d'Assisi." - -It is no exaggeration to say that in many respects the archæological -interest of New Mexico, its atmosphere, its historic color, is as -distinctive as that of Egypt or of Greece, Italy, or Spain. When, -on December 15, 1905, the first long-distance telephone in Santa Fé -established communication _viva voce_ with Denver, while within a -radius of fifty miles, ruins of prehistoric civilization fascinated -the tourist,--surely the remote past and the latest developments of -the present met and mingled after the fashion of "blue spirits and -gray." Very curiously mixed is the civilization of New Mexico. It can -almost be said to lie in strata, like geologic testimony. The ancient -peoples whose very name is lost,--shrouded in antiquity that has closed -the chapters and refuses to turn the pages for the twentieth-century -reader; the Indian population; the Spanish, whose explorers--Alvar -Nuņez, Cabeza de Vaca, Coronado, Juan de Oņate, and others--and whose -missionaries, from the ranks of the Franciscan friars, brought to the -savage land the first message of modern civilization; and the American, -which within almost the past half-century has established itself since -that August day of 1846 when General Kearny floated the stars and -stripes from the "Old Palace" in Santa Fé. The American civilization -and high enlightenment has poured itself into this "Land of the Sun -King,"--the "Land of the Turquoise Sky." For now, as Colonel Frost -has so ably and comprehensively noted, "New Mexico is strictly up to -date in its government, in its hotels, its railroad accommodations, in -the protection the law affords, in its universities, colleges, public -schools, sanitariums, charitable institutions, its progress, and in -its prosperity. Churches are found in every settlement, newspapers in -every town, together with fine stores, banking institutions, and every -safety, comfort, and luxury that the centres of civilization of the -East afford." If that vivid and inspiring group of the Muses,--the -muse of History, of Science, of Philosophy, and others,--painted by -Puvis de Chavannes to adorn the court of the grand stairway of rich -Siena marble in the Public Library of Boston,--an achievement in modern -art that alone would immortalize the great painter of France,--if -these Muses could visit New Mexico, the specialty of each would be -found. The richly historic past that has left its various records; the -present, that has impressed into its service every power of science, -of engineering, of architectural construction, of agriculture, and of -social progress, would furnish to each a vast field in its own especial -domain. - -A work published in Paris somewhere about the middle of the nineteenth -century, entitled "_Memoires Historiques sur La Louisiane_,"--a -book that has never been translated,--gives an account of a French -expedition in New Mexico in search of a mine of emeralds and their -encounter with the Spanish forces; but although in this engagement -the Spanish troops suffered disaster, the Spanish civilization still -continues, while there is little permanent trace of the French in New -Mexico. It is a curious fact, however, that the present continues this -varied and strangely assorted grouping of races which characterized the -country in its earliest days. - -New Mexico reminds one of Algiers. There is the same Oriental -suggestion of intense coloring, of dazzling brilliancy of sky, of -gleaming pearl, of floating clouds. - -There is one feature of this trans-Continental trip which is of the -first importance to the tourist, and this is the line of artistic and -beautiful hotels built after the old mission design, the architecture -felicitously harmonizing with the landscape,--those Harvey hotels -built in connection with the Santa Fé stations at principal points, as -at Trinidad, Las Vegas, Albuquerque, and others, all christened with -Spanish names,--the "Cardenas," the "Castaņeda," the "Alvarado,"--all -of which are conducted with a perfection of cuisine and service -that is rarely equalled. The social and the picturesque charm of -the long journey is singularly enhanced by the leisurely stops made -for refreshment; the leaving the long train--with its two engines, -one at either end--for the little exercise in fresh air gained by -going into the dining-rooms; being able to procure papers at the news -stands, fruit, or other delicacies, and enjoying the scenery and -gaining some knowledge of the place. In connection with the Alvarado, -at Albuquerque, are two buildings: one that offers a most interesting -museum of Indian archæological and ethnological collections, and -the other showing native goods from Africa and the Pacific islands. -Salesrooms connected with these enable the traveller to purchase any -souvenir from a trifle, to the costly baskets, richly colored Navajo -blankets, the strange symbolic pottery, or the objects of religious -rites. - -A day's delay at Albuquerque enables the traveller to visit four -interesting pueblos,--Santa Ana, Sandia, Zia, and Jemez,--in a day's -stage ride between Jemez and Albuquerque. At all these important -stations on the route the Santa Fé has established free reading-rooms -for its employés, fitted up with every comfort. - -New Mexico, while partaking in the general fascination that invests all -the great Southwest, is especially not only a land of enchantment, but -a land of opportunities. It is a country of untold latent wealth, of -uncalculated resources. There are vast tracts of soil that are ready -for the cultivation they will so bountifully repay; there are over -three hundred mining districts, few of which are developed. Six million -sheep are grazing upon its thousand hills, which would furnish raw -material for a large number of woollen mills. The land is favorable for -the culture of the sugar beet, and manufactories for this product are -needed. A local authority states that "the rubber plant is indigenous -and mineral products are of such extent and variety that industries -that need them for raw material, or incidentally in the process of -manufacture, will find in this part of the United States a location -much more favorable than most of the Eastern manufacturing centres. -There exist large deposits of iron ore, fluxing material and fuel for -furnaces, steel mills and smelters, and there are but few branches -of manufacture which could not be established with profit in this -part of the Southwest. Besides the raw material there are offered the -water-power, the fuel, the cheap labor, special inducements, such as -exemption from taxation for the first five years and a low assessment -thereafter, favorable legislation, cheap building sites, railroad -facilities, freedom from excessive competition, the increasing home -demand of a growing commonwealth of vast resources, and proximity to -the markets of Mexico and the Orient.... - -"Farmers are urged to come to till the fertile soil under the most -favorable conditions, and with home markets that pay better prices -than can be obtained anywhere else. Only a quarter of a million of -acres are under cultivation, and most of these only in forage plants -or in products that demand little attention; four times that area is -immediately available for agricultural purposes. Not one-half of the -flowing water is utilized, and not one-fiftieth of the flood water is -stored. There are undeveloped possibilities of farming by the Campbell -or dry-soil method. New Mexico raises the finest fruit in the world, -and every other crop that can be produced anywhere in the temperate -zone. Yet it imports annually millions of dollars' worth of flour, -alfalfa, hay, potatoes, fruit, garden produce, poultry, eggs, butter, -cheese, honey, beef, pork, and other products of the farm and dairy -that it can and should raise at home. Free lands, the finest climate -in the world, irrigation, churches, schools, railroad facilities, home -markets, good prices, and extensive range, are all factors which help -to make the life of the farmer and stock grower in New Mexico pleasant -and prosperous." - -The visitor from the East enters New Mexico through a long tunnel; -and in Raton, a prosperous city of some eight thousand people located -in the Raton Mountains, is found the centre of an enormous coal belt, -and also a promising oil field. Raton is called the "Gate City." It -exports ice of a very pure quality, the water being from a reservoir -of a capacity of over fifty million gallons. The streets of Raton are -graded and have electric lighting; there is a fine park, long-distance -telephonic connection with Colorado and New Mexican cities, and its -schools and churches are numerous. A new Raton tunnel is now in -process of construction by the Santa Fé line that will enter New -Mexico through the mountains at a lower point. The work is being done -by electric drills that offer a most interesting spectacle in their -process. The tunnel will cost a million dollars. Most beautiful is -the landscape and the coloring of air and sky between Raton and Las -Vegas. The Cimarron range is silhouetted against the western sky; -picturesque points on the old Santa Fé trail are seen; and Mora Caņon, -through which the journey lies, has its romantic attractions. From -the lofty plateau of Raton's Peak the deep, dark valley of Rio Las -Animas Perdidas is disclosed; the matchless Spanish Peaks, "Las Cumbres -Espaņolas," lift their heads into the blue sky; Pike's Peak gleams like -a monumental shaft in the clouds, and the Snowy Range, for more than -two hundred miles, is within the luminous landscape. - -Las Vegas, the second city in importance in New Mexico, is a -fascinating place. There are really three towns of Las Vegas--the old -Spanish town, still retaining its ancient convent and missions; the -new, up-to-date Las Vegas, with its Castaņeda Hotel--beautiful in the -old Moorish architecture, with spacious piazzas and balconies; and -Las Vegas Hot Springs, connected by trolley cars. Thus there is the -particular paradise of the invalid, or of those who take prevention -rather than cure and a sunny winter in order not to be invalids; for at -Las Vegas Hot Springs, to which a branch railroad of this omnipresent -Santa Fé conveys the traveller--only six miles--the Hot Springs boil -and bubble like the witches' caldron. Here the guests may immerse -themselves in boiling mineral water, or lie all day in the sunshine, -or whatever else they prefer; and the medicinal waters, internally -and externally administered, are said to make one over altogether. -Rheumatic and tubercular affections flee, it is said, before this -treatment and the wonderful air; and apparently if Ponce de Leon had -only chanced upon Las Vegas he would not have searched in vain for his -fabled fountain. - -Albuquerque is an exceedingly "smart" town. Its residents are almost -entirely Eastern capitalists, who are living here that they may keep -an eye on their possessions, mines, ranches, and the things of this -world in general. However largely they have laid up their treasures -in heaven, they have a goodly amount also on earth, over which they -perhaps keep closer watch and ward than over their more immaterial -possessions. At all events, Albuquerque is a sort of Newport of the -West, where people drive and dance and dine from one week to another, -and the women are so stylish as to suggest some occult affinities with -the Rue de la Paix. - -In this brilliant and thoroughly up-to-date young city of Albuquerque, -the metropolis of New Mexico; in Las Vegas, one of the fascinating -towns of the continent; in Raton and Gallup, and in its capital, Santa -Fé, the territory has a galaxy of exceedingly interesting towns. - -Albuquerque is the trade centre of a region exceeding in area all New -England. With a population estimated at some eighteen thousand; the -seat of the University of New Mexico, whose buildings occupy a plateau -two hundred feet above the town, commanding a beautiful view; with a -scenic background of the Sandia and the Jemez mountains; with the most -extensive free Public Library in the territory; two daily journals and -a number of weekly papers in both Spanish and English, and several -monthly publications; with its splendid railway facilities both to -the North and the South, as well as on the great trans-continental -line from the East to the Pacific; with the shops of the Santa Fé road -employing over seven hundred men, as the junction point of three lines -of this superb system; and with the beautiful Alvarado hotel, in the -old Spanish mission architecture, from whose wide piazzas the view -comprises a host of mountain peaks piercing the turquoise sky, and -whose beauty and comfort is a masterpiece of the magician of the Land -of Enchantment; with the Musée of Indian relics and souvenirs of the -Moki, the Navajo, the Zuņi, Pima, and Apache; the fine Mexican filigree -work; the model of an Indian pueblo, and other curios,--with all these -and many other interesting aspects, Albuquerque fascinates the tourist. -In the "Commercial Club" it has a unique institution representing the -combination of business and social life. The broad streets are well -lighted by electricity; there is electric transit and a fine water -system. Albuquerque has also extensive manufacturing interests, in -foundry, lumber, and other directions, which aggregate an investment of -over two millions of capital with an annual productive value of more -than four millions. - -Returning to Las Vegas; with its ten thousand inhabitants, its large -floating population drawn by the medicinal hot springs, and the seat -of the territorial Normal School. As a noted wool centre, and with its -daily papers, good schools, and many churches, it is another alluring -point. One feature of important interest is the new "Scenic Highway" -that is in process of completion between Las Vegas and Santa Fé, across -the Pecos Forest Reserve, which will offer some of the grandest views -in any of the mountain regions of the West. It will be to Santa Fé -and Las Vegas what the beautiful drive between Naples, Sorrento, and -Amalfi is to Southern Italy. This scenic road will wind up to the -Dalton Divide, nine thousand five hundred feet high, where Lake Peak, -glittering with snow, Santa Fé Caņon, and other peaks and precipices -and caņons, are all about, and the Pecos River is seen far below as a -thread of silver. This drive will be one of the famous features of the -entire West when completed. New Mexico monopolizes the greatest belt of -coal deposits west of the Missouri, while Arizona has the monopoly in -pine forests. - -The reclamation work in the southern part of the Rio Grande Valley is -now in successful process, and near Engle a reservoir forty miles in -length will be established, having a capacity of two million acre-feet. -It is estimated that a hundred and ten thousand acres of land will thus -be put under irrigated agriculture which will yield marvellous returns -in alfalfa, cereals, vegetables, and fruits. - -The government has also purchased the system of the Pecos Irrigation -Company, which is now transferred to the Reclamation Service of the -United States. This is the largest irrigation scheme in New Mexico. It -is located on the Pecos River, which is fed from springs many of which -gush forth from the earth with such force as to indicate that their -source must be in high, snow-crowned hills. - -New Mexico's railroad facilities may be estimated from the fact that -not a county in the territory is without a railroad, while many have -the benefit of three lines. With twenty-five hundred miles of railroads -within the territorial limits already in operation, it is confidently -expected that this number will be increased to four thousand miles -within two years, as much of this anticipated increase is already under -construction. Of the present railways eleven hundred miles belong to -the Santa Fé system alone. The matchless scenery of the Denver and -Rio Grande route between Ontonito and Santa Fé offers the tourist one -of the most enjoyable of trips through Espaņola, Caliente, and other -points of beauty with the mountain peaks of San Antonio, Taos, Ute, and -others within the horizon, often appearing like islands swimming in a -faint blue haze. - -There is space and to spare in New Mexico. There are almost unlimited -possibilities, with much to get and as much to give, and the latter is -by no means less important in life than the former. Out of a total area -of over seventy-eight million acres only about a quarter of a million -are under irrigation agriculture, and the field for reclamation is as -unlimited as it is promising. The land is fertile and the productions -are abundant. The sky is a dream of color and of luminous beauty, and -the climate is one of the most delightful in the entire world. Nor -does New Mexico suffer from that which is the greatest deprivation of -Arizona,--the lack of water. There is an abundance of the mountain -flood waters that now go to waste which would store vast reservoirs; -there is the flow of copious streams and large river systems, and -there are artesian belts of water all ready for mechanical appliances. -The Campbell dry culture, which is increasingly in use in the eastern -part of Colorado, has been successfully introduced into New Mexico. -Fruit-growing is already becoming an important industry, and the -apple orchard, of all other varieties of horticulture, is the most -successful. At the Paris Exposition in 1900 New Mexico made an exhibit -of apples, and also at Buffalo in 1901, receiving from the former the -award to rank with those of the best apple-growing regions in any part -of the United States, and from the latter the first prize. Peaches, -pears, and apricots grow well; the cherry does not thrive in New -Mexico, but grapes are grown with conspicuous success. - -The mineral resources of New Mexico are varied, and include gold, -silver, copper, lead, and other minerals. In precious stones there is -promise of untold development. The Tiffanys own large turquoise mines, -whose supply, thus far, has proved inexhaustible; and the opal and -the moonstone are found in many places. But it is as an agricultural -commonwealth, and as the repository of vast coal belts, that New Mexico -is chiefly distinguished. - -It was early in February, 1880, that the first train over the Santa -Fé railroad entered the territorial capital and initiated its -transformation from the mediæval Spanish town to that which is, in -part, the theatre of the progressive American life. In Santa Fé one -of the landmarks pointed out to-day to the visitor is the old Santa -Fé Trail, whose story was told so vividly, some years ago, by Colonel -Henry Inman,[2] who has described the majestic solitude of this highway -and has narrated the mingled experiences of the early pioneers and the -soldiers who thus marched through the wilderness. History and romance -mingle in the wonderful past of New Mexico, and it needs no sibyl of -old to proclaim from the _Mesa Encantada_ the promise of the future to -this beautiful Land of the Turquoise Sky. - - - - - -CHAPTER VII - -THE STORY OF SANTA FÉ - - "_From scheme and creed the light goes out, - The saintly fact survives, - The Blessed Master none can doubt - Revealed in holy lives._" - - "_Oh, more than sacred relic, more - Than solemn rite or sacred lore, - The holy life of one who trod - The footmarks of the Christ of God._" - - -In the place once occupied by those whose lives were consecrated to -the divine ideal, some influence, as potent as it is unseen, binds -the soul to maintain the honor that they left; to hold the same noble -standard of life. The spell is felt even while it eludes analysis. Few -to-day can tread the narrow, primitive little streets of old Santa Fé -without some consciousness of this mystic influence. It was here, in -the centuries gone from all save memory, that - - "there trod - The whitest of the saints of God," - -and "The True City of the Holy Faith of Saint Francis" (_La Ciudad Real -de la Santa Fé de San Francisco_) is forever consecrated by the memory -of these holy men, and vital with the tragic interest, the heroic and -pathetic story of their lives. As early as 1539 Friar Marcos de Nizza -and other Fathers of the Church pressed on into this country--then an -unknown wilderness--to extend the domain of the Holy Cross and carry -onward "the true faith of St. Francis." They encountered every hardship -possible to a savage land; sacrifice and martyrdom were their reward. -They left a land of learning and refinement to carry the light into -regions of barbarism. They gave their lives to teaching and prayer, -and they sowed without reaping their harvest. Yet who shall dare think -of their brilliant, consecrated lives as wasted? for the lesson they -taught of absolute faith in God is the most important in life. Faith -provides the atmosphere through which alone the divine aid can be -manifested, and the divine aid is sent through and by means of our -friends and helpers and counsellors in the unseen world. It is man's -business, his chief business, now and here, to co-operate with God in -the carrying out of His plans and purposes. It was this literal and -practical faith in divine aid that the Franciscan Fathers taught in the -wilderness through all hardship and disaster. - - "Say not the struggle naught availeth." - -It must always avail. - - "Yet do thy work; it shall succeed - In thine or in another's day, - And if denied the victor's meed - Thou shalt not lack the toiler's pay." - -This Spanish mission work planted itself over the entire vast region -which is now known as New Mexico, Arizona, and Southern California. -The friars set out on long, lonely journeys, wholly without ways and -means to reach a given destination save as they were guided by unseen -hands and companioned by unseen guides. The cloud by day and the pillar -of fire by night led them on. They went forth to meet desolation and -sacrifice and often martyrdom; yet their gentle zeal and cheerful -courage never failed. They traversed hundreds of miles of desert -wastes; they encountered the cruel treatment of the Apaches and the -Navajos; but these experiences were simply to them the incidents of -the hour, and had no relation to the ultimate issue of their work. In -1598 the first church was founded, by a band of ten missionaries who -accompanied Juan de Oņate, the colonizer, and was called the chapel -of San Gabriel de los Espaņoles, but it was deserted when, in 1605, -the city of Santa Fé was founded by Oņate, and in 1630 the church of -San Miguel was built. The original wall was partly destroyed in the -rebellion of a half-century later, but it was restored in 1710, and the -new cathedral was built on the site where the present one now stands. -As early as 1617 there were eleven Spanish mission churches within -the limits of what is now New Mexico,--at Pecos, Jemez, and Taos; at -Santa Clara, San Felipe, and other places, mostly within the valley -of the Rio Grande. In six of the historic "seven cities of Cibola," -all Zuņi towns, these missions were established; and in the ancient -pueblo of San Antonio de Senecú, Antonio de Arteaga founded a church -in 1629; in Picuries, in 1632, Friar Ascencion de Zárate established -the mission, and in 1635 one also in Isleta. In passing Glorieta, from -the train windows, to-day, can be seen the ruins of the early mission -church established there. Before the close of the seventeenth century -the churches in Acoma, Alameda, Santa Cruz, Cuaray, and Tabirá had been -founded, the ruins of all of which are still standing. These Franciscan -Fathers penetrated the desert and made their habitations in solitary -wastes so desolate that no colonizers would follow; but to the Indians -they preached and taught them the elements of civilized life. - -"Not the wildest conceptions of the mission founders could have -foreseen the results of their California enterprises," says Professor -George Wharton James in his interesting work on these old missions.[3] -"To see the land they found in the possession of thousands of savages -converted in one short century, to the home of tens of thousands of -happy, contented people, would have been a wild vision indeed. God -surely does work mysteriously, marvellously, His wonders to perform." - -Santa Fé is the centre of the archdiocese whose other diocesean -cities are Denver and Tucson. The archbishop, the Most Reverend J. B. -Salpointe, D.D., whose presence exalts the city of his residence, is -one who follows reverently in the footsteps of Him whose kingdom on -earth the early Franciscans labored to establish. - -[Illustration: SAN MIGUEL CHURCH, SANTA FÉ] - -In 1708 San Miguel was restored by Governor José Chacon Medina -Salazar y Villaseņor, Marqués de Peņuela, and two years later these -restorations were completed. An inscription that can be traced to-day -on the gallery bears this legend: - - El Seņor Marqués de la Peņuela Hizo Esta Fábrica: El Alférez real - Don Augustin Flores Vergara su criado. Aņo de 1710. - -Not only is this "City of the Holy Faith" consecrated by that -sacrificial devotion of the Franciscan Fathers; the heroic explorers -and pioneers, the brave and dauntless soldiers, from the time of -Cabeza de Vaca and Coronado to that of the gallant and noble General -Kearny, have left on Santa Fé the impress of their brave purpose and -high endeavor. The old Cathedral of San Francisco, the ancient church -of San Miguel, and the Rosario Chapel, all interest the stranger. In -1692 Diego de Vargas marched up from the south with two hundred men and -looked sadly at the little town of Santa Fé, from which his countrymen -had been driven. It would seem that de Vargas was a romantic figure of -his time. He was evidently endowed with the characteristic vehemence of -temperament, intense energy, and the genius for effective action that -marked the Spanish pioneers. He was rich in resources and manifested -a power of swift decision regarding all the perplexities into which -his adventurous life led, ever beckoning him on. The little town he -had entered appealed to him in its impressive beauty. Surrounded with -majestic mountains, with their deep and mysterious caņons, it was then, -as now, a region of entrancing sublimity. - -Adjoining San Miguel is the old house where Coronado is said to have -lodged in 1540. The "Old Palace," always used by the Governors of -New Mexico, is partly given over to a museum of Indian and Mexican -curiosities. There is a little library, open only every other -afternoon; there are many mountain peaks around, which are not -difficult to climb, and which offer charming views. The new State House -is a fine modern building, and Governor Hagerman, formerly an attaché -of the American Embassy at St. Petersburg, is alert and progressive in -his methods. - -More than half the residents of Santa Fé speak no English, and these -Spanish and Mexican residents have their papers in their own language, -their separate schools, and their worship in the old Cathedral. In -the early afternoon women in black, with black mantillas over their -heads, are seen passing up San Francisco Street and entering the -Cathedral, where they fall on their knees and tell their beads in the -silent church. Often one may see in the streets a funeral procession. -The casket is carried in a cart, and the family sit around it, on -the bottom of the wagon. A few friends follow on foot, and thus the -pathetic and grotesque little procession winds on its way. - -The history lying in the dim background of this ancient Spanish city is -one that impresses the imagination. It is a part of all that wonderful -early exploration by the Spanish pioneers of the vast region of country -that is now known as Arizona and New Mexico. - -In 1538 Cabeza de Vaca, after following the disastrous expedition of -Pánfilo de Narvaez to Florida, set forth with four men to penetrate -the vast unknown wastes to the west, and without compass or provisions -they made their way, crossing the Mississippi two years before its -discovery by De Soto, reached the Moqui country, and finally arrived in -Sinolao with glowing tales that excited the enterprise of the Spanish -conquerors and led to the founding of another expedition authorized -by the viceroy, Mendoza. It fared forth under the leadership of Padre -Marcos de Nizza, who (in 1539) entered the country of the Pimas, passed -up the valley of the Santa Ana, and set up the cross, giving the -country the name of the New Kingdom of San Francisco. - -Padre de Nizza's men were all massacred by the Moquis, but he returned, -as if bearing a charmed life, and set all New Spain aflame with his -tales of gold and of glory, and the great opportunity to extend the -work of the Holy Cross. - -Mendoza then proceeded to organize two other expeditions, one under -the intrepid Vasquez de Coronado and the other under Fernando Alarįon. -Coronado visited the ruins of Casa Grande and at last reached the -"Seven Cities," but their fabled wealth had shrunk to the sordid -actualities of insignificant huts, and Coronado returned to New Spain -in 1542, disappointed and dejected. - -In the meantime the expedition of Alarįon had sailed up the Gulf of -California (then known as the Sea of Cortez), and he discovered the -Colorado and the Gila rivers, ascending the Colorado in boats up to -the foot of the Grand Caņon. Then for nearly half a century no further -efforts to explore this region were made. But it is interesting to note -that some eighty years before the landing of the Pilgrims a Spanish -expedition had penetrated into the country which is now Arizona, and -have left definite record of their discoveries. - -In 1582 Antonio de Espejio explored the pueblos of the Zuņi and Moqui -tribes, visiting seventy-four in all, and discovering a mountain rich -in silver ore. From this time New Mexico was under the rule of the -Spanish conquerors. - -Juan de Oņate, who married Isabel, a daughter of Cortez and a -great-granddaughter of Montezuma, assumed the leadership, and about -1605 the town of Santa Fé was founded, and within the succeeding decade -the Mission Fathers had built a dozen churches and their converts -composed over fourteen thousand. A prominent padre in this movement was -Eusebio Francisco Kino. - -Santa Fé has the distinction of being the oldest town in the United -States, having been established fifteen years before the landing of the -Pilgrims. - -[Illustration: "WATCH TOWER." CLIFF DWELLERS, NEW MEXICO] - -[Illustration: CLIFF DWELLERS. WITHIN TWENTY-FIVE MILES OF SANTA FÉ, -NEW MEXICO] - -The mission church of San Xavier del Bac was established at so early -a date that it was in ruins in 1768, and on its site was built the -present one, in the valley of Santa Cruz, some ten miles south of -Tucson. This mission is a rare mingling of Ionic and Byzantine -architecture, with a dome, two minarets, and castellated exterior. The -front bears the coat-of-arms of the Franciscan monks--a cross with a -coil of rope and two arms below--one of Cohant and the other of St. -Francis d'Assisi. There are four fresco paintings, and there are more -than fifty pieces of sculpture around the high altar. - -The missions of Guevara, Zumacacori, and San Xavier were peculiarly -fruitful in good results. The ruins of Zumacacori still cover a large -space. The church is partially unroofed; the form is seen to have been -that of a plain Greek cross with a basilica, and a roofless chapel -is standing. The basilica is still crowned by the cross, and the -vital influence of this sign and seal of faith in the Christ, this -commemoration of the sacrificial zeal that animated the Mission Fathers -is still felt by all who gaze upon this sacred emblem silhouetted -against a blue sky. - -Santa Fé is, indeed, alive with the most profound and arresting -interest. The work of the early Spanish missionary priests effected -a great work among the Indians in creating conditions of peace and -industry; for faith in God, taught in any form, is not merely nor even -mostly an attitude of spirit: it is the instinctive action of life. -It permeates every motive inspiring it with power; it vitalizes every -effort with creative energy. Faith in God may well be described as the -highest possible form of potency. He who is receptive to the Divine -Spirit moves onward like a ship whose sails are set to the favoring -winds. He who is unreceptive to the Divine Spirit is like the ship -before the wind with all her sails furled. "The merit of power for -moral victory on the earth," said Phillips Brooks, "is not man and is -not God. It is God and man, not two, but one, not meeting accidentally, -not running together in emergencies only to separate again when -the emergency is over; it is God and man belonging essentially -together,--God filling man, man opening his life by faith to be a part -of God's, as the gulf opens itself and is part of the great ocean." - -The unfaltering devotion of the Franciscan Fathers to the work of -bringing civilization and Christianity to these Indian pueblos and -their martyrdom in their efforts to establish "the true faith of St. -Francis" invests Santa Fé with an atmosphere of holy tradition. - - "All souls that struggle and aspire, - All hearts of prayer by Thee are lit; - And, dim or clear, Thy tongues of fire - On dusky tribes and twilight centuries sit." - -These early Church Fathers taught a pure and high order of faith in the -most practical way. They acquired the Indian language in sufficient -measure to speak to the tribes. They taught them the rudiments of -arithmetic, history, and geography--in the imperfect way then known; -but they gave their best. They inculcated industry and honesty. Their -faith is largely told in the poet's words,-- - - "That to be saved is only this: - Salvation from our selfishness." - -The missions through all the Southwest were peculiarly fruitful in -good results. The ruins of many still exist, revealing them to have -usually been in the general design of a nave and basilica crowned by -the cross--this sign and seal of faith in the Christ. - - "O Love Divine! whose constant beam - Shines on the eyes that will not see, - And waits to bless us; while we dream - Thou leavest, because we turn from Thee! - - * * * * * - - "Nor bounds, nor clime, nor creed thou know'st; - Wide as our need Thy favors fall; - The white wings of the Holy Ghost, - Brood, seen or unseen, o'er the heads of all." - -Three Spanish documents still exist in the territorial records of -New Mexico dated 1693-1694, which give a full account of the Spanish -conquest; of the re-conquest by the Indians, and the final conquest -again by the Spaniards. There is ample evidence that a city existed on -the present site of Santa Fé four hundred years before the settlement -at St. Augustine. The final Spanish conquest took place in 1692, but -all the records prior to 1680 were unfortunately destroyed in the -Pueblo Rebellion. New Mexico's historian, Hon. L. Bradford Prince, who -has more than once served as Governor of the territory and who is one -of the most distinguished men of the West, has finely said that the -people of his territory, although threefold in origin and language -(Spanish, Mexican, and American), are one in nationality, purpose, and -destiny. In Governor Prince's history of New Mexico he notes its three -determining epochs,--the Pueblo, the Spanish, and the American,--and -he refers to it as "an isolated, unique civilization in the midst of -encircling deserts and nomadic tribes." - -On August 18, 1846, General Stephen W. Kearny took possession of the -capital of New Mexico in the name of the United States; and on that -date, for the first time, the national colors floated from the Old -Palace and the acting Spanish Governor, Don Juan Baptista Vigil y -Alvarid resigned his authority. - -On the historic plaza where now a memorial to this brave officer -stands, placed there by the "Daughters of the Revolution," General -Kearny proclaimed the peaceful annexation of the territory of the -United States. - - "We come as friends to make you a part of the representative - government," he said. "In our government all men are equal. Every - man has a right to serve God according to his conscience and his - heart." - -General Kearny assured the people of the protection of every -civil and religious right, and this forcible and noble speech--so -characteristically representing the generous and noble spirit of one -of the ablest among the leaders and the heroes of the nineteenth -century--made a profound impression on the minds of all who listened -to the words. When on August 18 of 1946 New Mexico shall celebrate her -centenary of union with the United States, this memorable address of -General Kearny's should be read to the assembled populace. Not even -Lincoln's noble speech at Gettysburg exceeds in simple eloquence and -magnanimity the lofty words of General Kearny. They were worthy to be -spoken in "The City of the Holy Faith." - -It was thus that New Mexico entered the United States, _Esto Perpetua_. -To-day, after a territorial novitiate of more than sixty years, she is -ardently urging her claim for statehood. - -In old Santa Fé the past and the present meet. Governor Hagerman -receives his guests in the same room in the Old Palace that was used -by the first viceroy; and seventy-six Spanish and Mexican and eighteen -American rulers have preceded him, among whom was General Lew. Wallace, -who, while serving as territorial Governor, wrote his immortal "Ben -Hur" in one room of the palace, which is still pointed out to the -visitor. During this period Mrs. Wallace wrote many interesting -articles on the history, the life, and the resources of the territory, -in which are embalmed valuable information delightfully recorded. Mrs. -Prince, the wife of ex-Governor Prince, a lady distinguished throughout -all the country for her gracious sweetness and refined dignity of -manner, is much interested in the New Mexico Historical Association; -and the ex-Governor and Mrs. Prince, His Honor, Mayor Cotrell, and Mrs. -Cotrell, Colonel and Mrs. Max Frost, and others of the choice society -of Santa Fé, are preserving the history of this territory "that has -survived all those strange modulations by which a Spanish province has -become a territory of the Union bordering on statehood." Santa Fé is -the home of some of the ablest lawyers in the United States, and one -private law library is said to be the largest legal library west of -Chicago. - -The Old Palace has been identified with the times of the Inquisition; -with the zealous work of Friar Marcos de Nizza, Friar Augustino Ruiz, -and with Coronado and his band of warriors. On the Plaza, Juan de -Oņate unfurled the banner of Spain; here de Vargas gave thanks for his -victory, and here to-day is a simple monumental memorial of General -Kearny placed there by the Daughters of the Revolution. The revered -memory of Archbishop Lamy is closely associated with the place. In the -Old Palace is a musée where a great array of unique curios is gathered; -pictures of saints rudely painted on skins; crucifixes rudely carved -in wood or moulded in native silver; gods carved in stone, and -primitive domestic utensils. - -There is a very charming and cultivated society in Santa Fé of the -small circle of American residents,--a circle that is of late rapidly -increasing. The country around is rich in gems,--the turquoise, opal, -onyx, garnet, and bloodstone being found in liberal deposits; and in -the town is a manufactory of Mexican filigree work that employs the -natives only who are very skilful in this delicate art. The Plaza is a -curiously fascinating place to saunter around, and the visitor finds -himself loitering and lingering as he is wont to loiter and linger on -the old Ponte Vecchio in Florence. The nomenclature of Santa Fé is -sufficiently foreign to enable one to fancy himself in Andalusia, as -such names as Padilla, Quintona, Lopez, Gutierrez, Vaca, and others -recur. - -The Rosario Chapel, built by Seņor Diego de Vargas, stands on a height -overlooking Santa Fé a mile distant from the Plaza and the Old Palace. -Near it is now located the Ramona School for the children of the -Apaches. The legend of the founding of San Rosario is still on the -air. When, in 1692, Seņor de Vargas, marching from the south with his -band of two hundred men, gazed upon the city from which, in 1680, his -compatriots had been so tragically driven, he prostrated himself on the -ground and implored in prayer the protection and aid of "Our Lady of -the Rosary," and recorded his purpose that, would she but lead him on -to victory, he would build, on the very site where he was kneeling, a -chapel to her name. Arising, he led his band on to assault, and after -a tragic struggle of eleven hours' duration he was victorious. Did the -"Lady of the Rosary" shield and strengthen him? Who shall venture to -deny it? - - "More things are wrought by prayer - Than this world dreams of." - -De Vargas had promised that, in case the victory was granted to him, he -would have the statue of the Virgin carried from the cathedral to the -Rosario Chapel, as already noted. To this day the custom is fulfilled; -and each year, on the Sunday following _Corpus Christi_, this sacred -drama is enacted, with sometimes two thousand people, drawn from all -the country around, forming the procession. The statue is kept in the -chapel a week, with solemn masses celebrated every morning, after which -it is returned to the cathedral and the chapel is closed, not to be -opened again until the octave of the Feast of _Corpus Christi_ the next -year. - -The "City of the Holy Faith" is very quiet in these days, and one -finds little trace of the turbulent past when it was the storm centre -of tragic wars and revolutions. The incessant warfare between the -Spaniards and the Indians, the sublime courage and devotion of Bishop -Lamy and other Fathers of the Church, constitute a wonderful chapter in -the history of our country. - -Santa Fé antedates the landing of the Pilgrims by more than twenty -years. Its history is an unbroken record of thrilling and romantic -events, from its capture by the Pueblos in 1680; the terrible massacre -of the Mission Fathers, and the flight of the Governor to El Paso; -its conquest again by de Vargas in 1692; the change from Spanish to -Mexican rule; then the splendid entrance of General Kearny and his -troops (in the summer of 1846) in the name of the United States, down -to the scenes and the incidents of the old Santa Fé Trail and thence to -the present day, when three railroads have brought the city into close -touch with the modern life of which it still refuses to become a part. -Still, Santa Fé has nine mails a day, a free-delivery postal system, -electric lights, and local and long-distance telephonic connection. -The Capitol, where Governor Hagerman presides over the councils of -state, is a fine modern building with a beautiful view from the dome. -There is a new Federal Building of stone in classic design, in front -of which is placed a monument to Kit Carson. St. Michael's College, -the residence of the Archbishop, and the Government Indian School -attract the eye. But it is the old Santa Fé of haunting historic -memories that one dreams of in the narrow streets, or in looking down -on the town from a mountain-side. The quaint little Plaza dreams in -the sunshine, which lingers, as if with a _Benedicite_, on the Kearny -memorial, while through the unshuttered and uncurtained windows of the -Old Palace, forming one side of the Plaza, the antique débris may be -dimly seen. Should the ghost of any of the old Spanish warriors peer -forth, the apparition would hardly produce a ripple of surprise. The -long colonnade may be the favorite promenade of phantoms for aught one -knows,--phantoms, that come and go,-- - - "With feet that make no sound upon the floor." - -The twentieth-century sunshine lights up the dusky corners wherein are -stored the relics of the Spanish conquerors and the followers of St. -Francis. Perchance Francis d'Assisi himself, "revisiting the glimpses -of the moon," glides along the shadows, drawn to the spot where, at -so fearful a cost of life and treasure, his "holy faith" was guarded; -or it may be the warrior in his armor who for an instant is dimly -discerned through the dust-covered windows. Coronado, too, may haunt -this scene. Many are those in the historic ranks who have contributed -to the making of Santa Fé. It is the most composite city in American -history. The very air is vocal with tradition and legend. - -The little shops around the Plaza bear their signs mostly in Spanish. -Yet mingling with these is the office of Mr. Lutz of the Santa Fé -transcontinental line, with which the New Mexican capital is connected -by a branch to Lamy, on the main line, where one may stand and converse -with Denver,--a feat which may surprise the ghost of Coronado or of -Juan de Oņate were it looking on; and Colonel Frost's daily journal, -with its news of the world, is just at the corner. Not far away, too, -is Mr. Linney, who represents the United States Signal Service, and -regards Santa Fé as a most opportune town in which to pursue his most -up-to-date study of atmospheric phenomena. - -A remarkable personality in Santa Fé is Colonel Max Frost, the editor -of "The New Mexican," the political leader of the Republican party and -a man who, though blind and paralyzed, is simply a living encyclopædia -of historic and contemporary events. At eight o'clock every morning -Colonel Frost is in his office, at his desk, dictating to three expert -stenographers, carrying on three different subjects simultaneously. -Instead of his blindness being a hindrance to his work, he has, by the -sheer force of his remarkable energy, transformed the obstacle into a -stepping-stone. "I can do more work in ten minutes than most men can -in an hour," he said, in reply to a question, "as, being blind, I have -nothing to distract my attention. I put my mind on my work and keep it -there." - -Colonel Frost's experience is the most convincing testimony to the -phenomenal power that lies in mental concentration. He cannot move -without assistance,--physically he is a wreck; yet he dictates columns -of work daily; he is the most influential leader of the political -party, and he is one of the makers of New Mexico. Every line of copy -in his daily paper is read to him before it goes to press, and the -vigorous and brilliant editorial page is largely his own work. For four -hours, every evening, Mrs. Frost reads to him from the great Eastern -dailies, the periodicals, and new books. It is said in New Mexico that -Colonel Frost has been the power behind the throne in territorial -legislation since the time that General Lew. Wallace served as chief -executive in 1879. - -Colonel Frost went to Santa Fé from Washington in 1876 as a brilliant -young officer, commissioned to build a military telegraph line from -Santa Fé to Phoenix, Arizona,--a distance of five hundred miles. -This commission attracted great attention, and Colonel Frost became -at once a power among the Spanish-American citizens of the territory. -His great ability was widely recognized by leading men all over the -Southwest. He was urged to remain and become a citizen of Santa Fé. As -if to further prepare him for his remarkable life, he was commissioned -by the government to serve at several points in New Mexico on a variety -of important matters, and he thus became singularly identified with the -general progress of the country. - -With all his extraordinary work in conducting his paper and devoting -himself to party political measures, Colonel Frost is serving his -territory as Secretary of the Bureau of Immigration with the most -conspicuous ability. Under his electric touch and irresistible -energy there is constantly prepared and sent out some of the finest -transcriptions of the entire status of the country, in climate, -resources, and opportunities; in achievements already realized and in -the potential developments of the future. Thousands of residents have -been drawn to New Mexico through the data so ably set forth by Colonel -Frost, the matter being, each year, revised to date. He knows, from -personal observation and intimate contact, every part of the territory; -he is personally acquainted with all the leading people; and no visitor -in the territory can feel his trip in any sense complete without -meeting Colonel Max Frost. If every state and territory in the Far West -could command such efficient service in the literature of immigration -as is rendered by Colonel Frost, there would be an appreciable increase -of their settlers. - -There are many eminent men in Santa Fé,--government officers, political -leaders, gifted lawyers,--whom the stranger within the gates must -recognize as among the ablest leaders and makers of the nation. A -newspaper recently established, "The Eagle," ably edited by Mr. A. -J. Loomis, adds another attraction and source of inspiration to the -wonderful old city, whose life still continues to illustrate and exalt -the "Holy Faith of St. Francis." - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - -MAGIC AND MYSTERY OF ARIZONA - - "_... The stars are glowing wheels, - Giddy with motion Nature reels; - Sun, moon, man, undulate and stream, - The mountains flow, the solids seem, - Change acts, reacts; back, forward hurled, - And pause were palsy to the world.-- - The morn is come: the starry crowds - Are hid behind the thrice-piled clouds; - The new day lowers, and equal odds - Have changed not less the guest of gods._" - - EMERSON - - -Arizona is the Land of Magic and of Mystery. It is the land of the yet -undreamed-of future, and it is also the region of brooding mystery, -of strange surprise. Besides its stupendous Grand Caņon, here are the -caņons of Chiquito, Marble, Desolation, and Limestone; the Montezuma -Well, Castle Dome, the Four Peaks--rising to the height of several -thousand feet, for hundreds of miles; the Thumb Buttes, San Francisco -Peak, the Tonto Basin, and the Twin Lake--all of these phenomenal -marvels of scenery telling their tale of the action of water and of -fire thousands of ages ago; convulsions of nature which have rent -the mountains asunder, opened chasms thousands of feet deep in the -earth, and projected the bottom of a sea into the air as a mountain -peak,-- - - "What time the gods kept carnival." - -[Illustration: PETRIFIED GIANTS, THIRD FOREST, ARIZONA] - -The gods have, indeed, kept high carnival in Arizona. Every aspect of -nature is on a scale of Titanic magnificence. The caņon systems of its -mountain ranges; the indescribable grandeur which reaches its supreme -majesty in the Grand Caņon; the wonders of extinct volcanic action; -the colossal channels cut by rushing waters; the unearthly splendor of -the atmospheric effects, and the coloring of the skies,--all combine -to render Arizona an expression of magical wonder. All manner of -phenomenal conditions are encountered. The land is a red sandy desert, -whose leading productions are loose stones (lying so thickly in the -sand as to make walking or driving all but impossible) and pine trees, -petrified forests, and cacti. The riotous growth of the cactus is, -indeed, a terror to the unwary. But it is in sunsets and enchantment -of views and richness of mines, and in marvellous curiosities--as the -Petrified Forest, Meteorite Mountain, and the Grand Caņon--that Arizona -distinguishes herself. She cannot irrigate her soil because there -is no available water. But the pine forests--some of them--produce -lumber; the mines are rich, and the features of nature unequalled in -the entire world; while the exhilaration of the electric air and the -wonderful beauty of coloring quite make up to Arizona resources that -are unsurpassed if not unrivalled. - -Arizona is not an agricultural country by nature, nor hardly by grace. -The resources are mining and timber. Still there are probably some -twenty million acres capable of rich productiveness, on which wheat, -barley, corn, vegetables of all kinds, and also rice and cotton, -could be successfully cultivated if irrigation could be sufficiently -effected. The largest area of agricultural land lies in the regions -adjacent to Prescott and Phoenix. This Salt River Valley is rich in -alluvial soil. The Gila Valley also offers, though in lesser area, -the same fertile land, and the valleys of the Colorado, Chiquito, of -Pueblo Viejo, the Santa Cruz, the San Pedro, the Sulphur Springs, -and the great mesa between Florence and Phoenix, offer the same -possibilities. The great problem of Arizona is that of irrigation, as -most of the rivers lie at the bottom of inaccessible caņons and present -difficulties of access which no engineer can as yet clearly see a way -to overcome. The conditions are, however, materially assisted by the -rainy seasons, occurring usually in February or March and in July -or August, when water can be stored. The rain itself is as peculiar -in Arizona as are other conditions of this wonderland. It rains in -sections; it may rain in torrents in a man's front yard while the sun -shines in his back yard; or if this statement has something of the -flavor of "travellers'" tales, it is at least typical of actual facts. -Five minutes' walking is often all that is required to carry one into, -or out of, a severe downpour of rain. The clouds follow the mountain -spurs as invariably as a needle follows the magnet and a torrent may -fall on the mountains above, flashing down in a hundred improvised -raging cataracts and waterfalls, while in the valley below the sun -shines out of the bluest of skies. No panoramic pictures of the stage -ever equalled the pictorial effects of a thunderstorm in the mountains, -when the forked lightning leaps from peak to peak in a blaze, through -the air; when it dashes like a meteoric shower from rock to crag, and -the thunder reverberates with the mighty roar of a thousand oceans -beating their surf on the shore. - -In Maricopa County, in the Salt River Valley, new and important -conditions have been initiated by the government system of irrigation -which has transformed arid lands into fertile gardens. The government -has expended three million dollars in constructing the Salt River dam -(sixty miles north of Phoenix), which is the largest artificial -lake in the world. This reservoir will store one and a half million -acres-feet of water, drawing it from the mountain caņons miles away. -Not only does this project mean an abundant water supply for a region -heretofore useless, but rich returns as well. - -There are few regions which so attract and reward the researches of -the scientist as does Arizona. The geologist, the mineralogist, the -ethnologist, the archæologist, finds here the most amazing field for -apparently unending investigation and study. Nor is the botanist -excluded. The flora of Arizona offers the same strange and unique -developments that characterize the region in so many other directions. -The cacti flourish in riotous growth. The saguaro, a giant species, -frequently attains a height of forty feet. A strange spectacle it is, -with its pale green body, fluted like a Corinthian column, and its -colossal arms outstretched, covered with immense prickly thorns and -bearing purple blossoms. The century plant flourishes in Arizona. -There is a curious scarlet flower, blooming in clusters, at the top -of straight pole-like stumps ten to fifteen feet in height, which -terminate in luxuriant masses of scarlet blossoms and green leaves, -and grow in groups of from a dozen to fifty together, producing the -most fascinating color effects in the landscape. This plant is called -the ocotilla. There are plants which produce a fibrous textile leaf -which the native Mexicans used as paper; there are others whose roots -are used as a substitute for soap. The trees are largely pine, cedar, -and juniper, though in many parts of the state the rolling foothills -bear forests of oak, and the sycamore, ash, elder, walnut, and the -swift-growing cottonwood are found along the watercourses. - -[Illustration: COLLECTION OF CACTI MADE BY OFFICERS AT FORT McDOWELL, -ARIZONA, FOR THIS PICTURE] - -"The echinocactus, or bisnaga, is also called 'The Well of the -Desert,'" says Dr. Joseph A. Munk in some interesting sketches of -Arizona.[4] "It has a large barrel-shaped body, which is covered with -long spikes that are curved like fishhooks. It is full of sap that is -sometimes used to quench thirst. By cutting off the top and scooping -out a hollow, the cup-shaped hole soon fills with a sap that is not -exactly nectar, but can be drunk in an emergency. Men who have been in -danger of perishing from thirst on the desert have sometimes been saved -by this unique method of well-digging." - -Of the palo verde Dr. Munk notes that it is "a true child of the -desert," and he adds: - - "No matter how hot and dry the weather, the palo verde is always - green and flourishing. At a distance it resembles a weeping willow - tree stripped of its leaves. Its numerous long, slender, drooping - branches gracefully crisscross and interlace in an intricate figure - of filigree work. It has no commercial value, but if it could be - successfully transplanted and transported it would make a desirable - addition to greenhouse collections in the higher latitudes. - - "The romantic mistletoe, that is world-renowned for its magic - influence in love affairs, grows to perfection in Southern Arizona. - There are several varieties of this parasitic plant that are very - unlike in appearance. Each kind partakes more or less of the - characteristics of the tree upon which it grows, but all have the - glossy leaf and waxen berry." - -The grasses of Arizona, are, in some places, very beautiful, of a rich -velvety green; and the infinite varieties of wild clover, the gramma, -the buffalo, the sacatone, and other grasses, are richly nutritive and -offer good facilities for grazing. As a wool-producing country Arizona -has no rival, the climate giving the best of protection to sheep -with the minimum of care, and the grazing offering adequate means of -support; and stock raising of all kinds, indeed, is destined to become -a great industry in Southern Arizona. - -The climate of Arizona can only be alluded to in the plural, as in the -expressive phrase of one of Mr. George W. Cable's creole characters, -"dose climates," for Arizona has all the climates of the known world. -The range of choice almost exceeds the range of the Fahrenheit -registration. From the mountain summit, covered with snow for at least -ten months out of the year, to the heat in Yuma, which has scored up to -one hundred and twenty-eight degrees or more, there are all varieties -and every conceivable quality of atmosphere. In the main, however, the -climate of Arizona is inexpressibly delightful. - -Dr. Munk, who is one of the distinguished physicians in Los Angeles, -has made a study of Arizona as a health resort, and of its conditions -he says: - - "The atmosphere of Arizona is not only dry, but also very - electrical; so much so, indeed, that at times it becomes almost - painful. Whenever the experiment is tried, sparks can be produced - by friction or the handling of metal, hair, or wool. It affects - animals as well as man, and literally causes 'the hair to stand on - end.' The writer has on various occasions seen a string of horses - standing close together at a watering-trough, drinking, so full of - electricity that their manes and tails were spread out and floated - in the air, and the long hairs drawn by magnetic attraction from - one animal to the other all down the line in a spontaneous effort - to complete a circuit. There are times when the free electricity - in the air is so abundant that every object becomes charged with - the fluid, and it cannot escape fast enough or find 'a way out' by - any adequate conductor. The effect of such an excess of electricity - is decidedly unpleasant on the nerves, and causes annoying - irritability and nervousness. - - "The hot sun sometimes blisters the skin and burns the complexion - to a rich nut-brown color, but the air always feels soft and balmy, - and usually blows only in gentle zephyrs. The air has a pungent - fragrance which is peculiar to the desert, that is the mingled - product of a variety of resinous plants. The weather is uniformly - pleasant, and the elements are rarely violently disturbed. - - "In the older settled sections of our country, whenever there is - any sudden or extreme change of either heat or cold, wet or dry, it - is always followed by an increase of sickness and death. The aged - and invalid, who are sensitive and weak, suffer most, as they feel - every change in the weather. There is, perhaps, no place on earth - that can boast of a perfect climate, but the country that can show - the fewest and mildest extremes approaches nearest to the ideal. - The Southwest is exceptionally favored in its climatic conditions." - -There is a legend that the poetic, musical name, Arizona, was derived -from "Ari," a maiden queen who once ruled the destinies of the Primas, -and "Zon," a valley, from the romantic configuration of the state, -the two combining into the melodious "Arizona." The tradition is -sufficiently romantic to be in keeping with the country it designates, -and nothing tends more to simplify the too complex processes of life, -not to say history, than to apply the rule of believing those things -that appeal to one's sense of the "eternal fitness" and rejecting -those which do not. The apostles of the simple life might well include -this contribution toward simplicity as an axiom of their faith. At all -events, as no other origin of Arizona's pretty name is on record, one -may indulge himself in accepting this one with a clear conscience. - -The authentic Spanish history of Arizona dates to the exploration of -Mendoza in 1540. For nearly three hundred years--until the treaty of -Guadaloupe-Hidalgo in 1866, when all the region north of the Gila -and Mesilla valleys was incorporated into the area of the United -States--the Spanish explorers and the Indian natives were in perpetual -conflict, and it was as late as 1863 that Arizona received its name -and individual domain as separate from New Mexico, with which it had -been incorporated. At the time of the Guadaloupe-Hidalgo treaty Arizona -did not contain a single white settlement in the north and west. Near -Tucson and Tuba were a few hundred whites, but all the other portions -were the domain of the Apaches and the Moquis. In 1856 the Hon. James -Gadsden, then United States Minister to Mexico, negotiated for the -purchase of this territory at a price of ten million dollars, and the -Mexican colors in Tucson were replaced by the Stars and Stripes. On -December 1, 1854, a memorial was presented to the legislature of New -Mexico for a separate territorial organization and name of the new -acquirement. - -Although the Spanish civilization has long since receded into the dim -historic past, its spirit is impressed in the very air; its zeal and -fervor still, in some mysterious way, permeate the atmosphere. - -Until 1863 Arizona remained a portion of New Mexico, the separate -territorial government of each being inaugurated at Fort Whipple, near -Prescott,--a thriving town of some six thousand people, named for the -historian whose works are the unquestionable authority on matters of -the Aztec and Spanish civilizations. Prescott is one of the young -Western cities that has a great future. Its altitude insures it a -delightful climate, the railroad facilities are good, and it is in a -region of almost fabulous mineral wealth. The "United Verde" mine, one -of the possessions of Senator Clark of Montana, is some thirty-five -miles from Prescott and yields vast revenues. Within thirty miles of -the town there are very large beds of onyx, one of which covers over -one hundred acres. This onyx is found in all colors,--the translucent -old gold, green, red, black, and white, with much in richly varied -combinations of color. Prescott has an altitude of a mile above the -sea and is a summer resort of itself for Phoenix and other Southern -Arizona towns. It is a distance of some three hundred miles from -Ash Fork to Winhelman, and Prescott and Phoenix are one hundred -miles apart, Prescott being only a hundred miles from Ash Fork and -Phoenix about the same distance from Winhelman. Near Prescott there -is a curious spot which is not less worthy of world-wide fame than is -the "Garden of the Gods" at Colorado Springs; although the "Point of -Rocks," as this grotesque system of formation near Prescott is called, -is little known to travellers. It is of that same unique sandstone -formation that is found in the "Garden of the Gods." Ruskin declared -that he could not visit America on the ground that it contained no -castles; but had his vision included Colorado and Arizona, with their -wonderful sandstone formations, he would have found castles galore so -far as scenic effect goes. It is not alone the "Garden of the Gods" -and the "Point of Rocks" that are marvellous spectacles, but all over -the states, here and there, on foothill and mountain and mesa, these -strange, fantastic, colossal rock formations arise, that have all the -landscape effect of the castles and towers in Italy. - -All the country around Prescott is alluring. On the branch road from -Ash Fork of the main transcontinental line to Winhelman some three -hundred miles south, there is an assortment of scenery which might be -described as warranted to please every taste. There are lofty mountains -pine-clad and green with verdure; others are seen barren and bleak, -whose sides and foothills are only decorated with the débris of mines. -There are vast desert solitudes where only the misshapen cacti grow, -looming up like giant skeletons in the air; and again there are glades -carpeted with a profusion of flowers in brilliant hues. There are -river-beds (arroyos) without any water and there are streams that go -wandering about, in aimless fashion, devoid of regulation river-beds. -Some of the arroyos, indeed, have streams running in strong currents, -but they hide these streams under the river-bed, as something too -valuable perhaps for common view. The clairvoyance of the scientific -vision, however, detects this fraud on the part of the arroyo at once, -so that of late years it is of little use for any well-regulated river -to hide its current under its bed. It may just as well relinquish the -attempt and let the stream run in an honest Eastern fashion, like the -Connecticut River, for instance, which is staid and steady, like its -state, and never undertakes to play pranks with its current. Since the -scientist has fixed his glittering eye on Colorado and Arizona, all the -gnomes and nixies have the time of their life to elude this vigilance, -and they seldom succeed. The scientist relentlessly harnesses them to -his use; and though a river may think to conceal its course by taking -refuge under its bed instead of running honestly along above it, the -effort is hopeless in an age when the scientist is abroad. It is said -that there are no secrets in heaven, and apparently nature is very like -paradise in this respect at least, for it is quite useless for her to -pretend to keep her operations to herself. The specialist, the expert, -surprises every secret she may treasure. - -Of all the rivers in Arizona no one has more entirely defied all the -accepted traditions of staying in its place and keeping within its own -limits than has the Colorado, which, not content with the extraordinary -part it plays at the bottom of that Titanic chasm, the Grand Caņon, -is now creating an inland sea, named the Salton Sea, in Southern -California. Prof. N. H. Newell, the government expert hydrographer of -the United States Geological Survey, has given close attention to the -Colorado of late, and of it he says: - - "... The Colorado cuts in its course the deepest caņons on the - face of the earth. From the solid rocks where it has made them, - through hundreds of miles, it has taken material down to the Gulf - of California, and by slight but regular annual overflows gradually - built banks on each side out into that gulf. These, in time, cut - off the head of the gulf, leaving dry a depression in Southern - California, considerably below sea level, known as 'the Salton - Sink.' For miles of its journey the Southern Pacific runs below - sea level. Ten thousand people, approximately, in what is known as - the Imperial Valley, live below the sea level. A privately owned - irrigation enterprise, on the Mexican side of the line, cut a gash - into this bank of the Colorado which nature had been forming. The - high waters came and man lost control of his artificial channel, - with the result that the river thought best to pour its waters - back into the depression which had once been a part of the Gulf of - California. To get the river to resume its own course is no small - task, and with it the Southern Pacific railroad evidently purposes - to grapple heroically. - -[Illustration: LOOKING THROUGH A PART OF THE RIVER GORGE, FOOT OF BAD -TRAIL, GRAND CAŅON] - - "The river is now pouring down a steep declivity into this basin, - which is two hundred feet or more below the sea level. If this were - allowed to continue, it would make a great salt lake in Southern - California. This water has already risen to the point where it - has submerged big salt works and fifteen miles of the Southern - Pacific's overland track, forcing that company to build around - the rising sea, and, unless its engineers succeed in routing the - Colorado for its old destination, it will be necessary to rebuild a - much longer piece of that road. Some people have argued that such - a sea would affect favorably the climate of Southern California, - but they forget that the great Gulf of California, jutting into - the most barren regions of the United States and Mexico, seemingly - has had no good effect on the climate of either. The Salton Sea - would add only two per cent of water surface to that part of the - country, and so hardly would do what the Gulf of California has - not accomplished. Unless the break is restored, the river will - pour into this basin, forming a very shallow lake, which would - be almost a frying-pan under that semi-tropical sun. This would - continue to rise until evaporation balanced the river flow, and - then would fluctuate with the seasons of the year, shrinking in - area during the months of the heaviest evaporation and slightest - inflow. - - "The gash in the river bank was cut by a Mexican corporation on - that side of the international line, but the water is delivered - to a number of American corporations, so that to-day several - are concerned in the affair. It is understood that the Southern - Pacific, when the river reaches its lowest stage, will put in - a great force of men in an endeavor to get the river back to - its former course. One great difficulty comes in the sugar-like - material which has been eroded, in which it is extremely hard to - insert any permanent structure. A pile one hundred feet deep will - be driven into it, and almost as soon the water, working in under - it, will lift it out." - -The Salton Sea, at this writing, covers an area of over four hundred -square miles, and is constantly increasing. The Southern Pacific -Railway that traversed its border has been driven twice from its line -and forced to lay new roadbeds and tracks. It is also creating great -confusion as to irrigation facilities, both in the United States and -in Mexico, within the region where it lies; and as a scientific event -it is one of the first magnitude,--an act in the drama of nature made -visible to all. - -The Salton Sink has long been known to the explorers and visitors -of this region. It was a vast basin of some one hundred and forty -miles in length and sixty-five or seventy in width; the evident -bed of a former sea, which had become a desolate and barren waste. -Sometimes a mirage--a not unfrequent phenomenon in Arizona and Southern -California,--would transform this long deserted basin into a phantom -sea, wonderful in aspect. To what extent this transformation will -continue defies prophecy. - -Phoenix, the capital of Arizona, is in Maricopa County,--a county -as large as the entire state of Massachusetts. The journey of two -hundred miles between Ash Fork and Phoenix is one of the most -uncanny and unearthly sort of trips, with mountains resembling a -witches' dance,--full of grotesque wonder and romantic charm,--but the -experience is almost like visiting another planet and coming under -totally different conditions of life. Phoenix is both the capital -and the metropolis of Arizona, and no city west of the Mississippi is -more popular among tourists or is able to inspire a stronger sentiment -of attachment among its residents. To some twelve or thirteen thousand -inhabitants are added, every winter, from four to five thousand -tourists. The city lies in the centre of the Salt River Valley,--that -marvel of the Southwest. The most important and valuable agricultural -region in Colorado lies in Maricopa County, of which Phoenix is the -pet and pride. In this locality the visitor to Arizona returns to the -normal day and daylight world again. The forest trees are not stone -quarries, nor have meteors, wandering through space, buried themselves -in its soil. There is no need of colossal magnetic appliances to seek -to discover and extricate some submerged star. Nor has the earth opened -and disclosed an Inferno, "bathed in celestial fires," as that of the -Grand Caņon far away to the northwest. The streams "stay put" within -their legitimate borders, and are apparently as firm in "standing pat" -as is the Republican party over a (new) tariff revision. Maricopa -County pursues a way of peaceful prosperity, with no lapse into the -vaudeville of petrified forests and buried stars. Her stars make their -appointed rounds in the skies, and shine nightly upon the just and the -unjust. In the northern part of Maricopa there are mineral districts -of rich ores, gold and copper as well as silver, lead, and others, but -chiefly the county holds her way as an agricultural region, indulging -in no freaks. Canals radiate in every direction from the Salt and -the Verde rivers. The Salt River Valley is so level that a theory -prevails that in some prehistoric ages it was smoothed by the Toltec -civilization, which even preceded that of the Aztec. Fields of alfalfa, -miles in extent, smile in the sunshine, while cattle graze knee-deep in -luxurious clover. Orange groves alternate with the apple and apricot -orchards. The date-palm, the fig, and the olive trees abound. Beautiful -homes stand in spacious grounds shaded by the dark foliage of the -umbrella tree, through which gleams the scarlet of the oleander and -the brilliant gold of the pomegranate. - -Phoenix offers to the resident or the visitor a good proportion -of the best that life can give: in good society, that which is -intelligent, moral, cultured, and sympathetic; in an admirable school -system; in churches of many denominations,--Catholic, Episcopal, -Methodist, Baptist, Presbyterian, Christian Science, and others,--all -having their fine houses of worship and earnest congregations. There -is an excellent and a constantly growing public library, and there are -four daily and several weekly newspapers, business blocks that would -do no discredit to any large Eastern city, a circuit telephone system -completely equipped, gas and water works, free city and rural mail -delivery, good hotels, a theatre, and an opera house. There are banks -and a Board of Trade. There are clubs both of men and women. The State -Normal School of Arizona is nine miles distant--in Tempe. - -There are three railroads that centre in Phoenix which transport -the traveller with the usual accepted ease and luxury of modern -railroading; and a new road to form a link in a second Santa Fé -transcontinental line will then place Phoenix on a trunk road over -which the Santa Fé traffic will largely pass. - -The winters in Phoenix are most attractive. From October till May -there is a climate all balm and sunshine without the enervating quality -felt in the tropics. The region all around has good roads, and driving -and riding are most enjoyable. - -Seventy-five miles east from Phoenix, in the Tonto Basin, the -government is building a vast water storage dam which it is expected -will liberally irrigate two hundred thousand acres of land which, -under reclamation, will produce in rich abundance both agricultural -and horticultural products. The climate and conditions combine those -of the temperate and the semi-tropical zones and favor products grown -in both. The Tonto dam will be, with the possible exception of the -Assouan dam in Egypt, the greatest storage enterprise in the world. It -will be constructed of hard sandstone imbedded in cement, making it as -permanent as the mountains. It will be two hundred and eighty-five feet -above foundations and only two hundred feet wide at the bottom. Above -will be a lake about twenty-five miles long, with storage capacity for -one and a half millions acre-feet, which means enough water to cover -that number of acres a foot deep. Even to the best of cement, Nature -has provided on the ground every necessity for construction. Along the -hillsides above is being dug a power canal, to discharge above the dam, -there to generate not less than five thousand horsepower,--more than -enough for the demands of construction. When the dam is finished this -power will be transmitted electrically to the vicinity of Phoenix, -here to be used for pumping. The government engineers have made plans -for eventually developing eighteen thousand horsepower, by harnessing -the falls of the river and the canals. - -The Salt River Valley has more than fifty thousand acres devoted to -alfalfa, which sometimes yields six crops in a year. Wheat, barley, and -corn are also grown, and the orange groves produce the finest fruit -known in the Eastern markets, antedating by a month the California -oranges. Grapes, apricots, and dates abound; and if Maricopa County -does not literally as well as figuratively find that her land is -flowing in milk and honey, it is certainly not for lack of the most -favorable conditions. - -The Arizona strawberries, too, are a feature of importance in the fruit -market, as for both size and flavor they absolutely exceed almost any -other in the United States. - -All this sunny prosperity of conditions and loveliness of climate -reacts on life. There is a poise, a serene confidence, and a charm of -good-will and joyous companionship felt in Phoenix that give to this -delightful young city an individuality of its own. - -The great dam now being built in the Tonto Basin has made it necessary -to destroy the town of Roosevelt,--a village of two thousand -inhabitants, with its churches, schools, water-works, electric lights, -and other appliances of modern civilization. "Roosevelt must perish," -writes a press correspondent, "that a desert may be made to bloom. -Already the marvellous engineering work is well under way. The walls -of the narrow caņon through which Salt River rushes on edge are being -locked by a massive monolith of solid masonry, the highest arch dam in -the world." - -The writer continues: - - "This wonderful structure of sandstone and cement will be two - hundred and eighty feet in height from foundation to parapet. - Placed by the side of an eighteen-story skyscraper, this dam would - rise ten feet above it, while its length on top would be more than - two city blocks. A turbulent stream, with its enormous floods, will - beat itself into stillness against the masonry monster, its foam - and spume lost in a deep lake twenty-five miles long and two miles - wide. - - "By day and by night the dull roar of dynamite breaks the desert - stillness, and the caņon walls go crashing down to furnish material - for this structure. On the hill far above, the rock crushers never - stop grinding the limestone, and great kilns, white hot, are - burning daily hundreds of barrels of cement. - - "When night comes, myriads of electric lights burst forth, weirdly - illuminating a busy army of toilers working gnome-like in a shadowy - caņon. A star-gemmed heaven looks down upon a wondrous scene, - unreal, awesome, and inspiring. - - "This great work of the government possesses unusual attractions - for the engineer and the layman. It is located in a valley which - has been the abode of three races, one of which lived here when - Cæsar sat upon his throne. In an age forgotten the cliff-dwellers - built their eyrie-like homes along the caņons of this stream, and - in the narrow valleys the lines of their irrigation canals may yet - be traced. Centuries later the Apaches came, and for many years - their tepees dotted the basin. Then came the white man, who sought - to reconquer the desert, which had resumed its sway after the - cliff-dwellers vanished. - - "The battle with unfriendly nature proved too much for the pioneer, - and Uncle Sam took a hand in the fight. No problems could daunt - his engineers. They laughed at floods and mocked at desolation. A - dam site was discovered sixty-two miles from a railroad, and they - proceeded to connect it with civilization by a marvellous road - which winds its way for forty miles through deep caņons, along the - face of frowning precipices, over foaming cataracts, and across - broad areas of treeless desert. It opens up to the transcontinental - traveller a new region of compelling interest and of splendid - scenery. Better than that, it provides an easy thoroughfare for the - transportation of heavy machinery of all kinds and the supplies for - the new community which sprang into life almost at a word. - - "... Every stone that is laid in the narrow arch, which is to - retain the foaming river now rushing through the caņon, brings - nearer and nearer the day when Roosevelt shall vanish beneath an - inland sea. When the great dam is completed, in 1908, and its - massive gates of steel, weighing eight hundred thousand pounds, are - shut down, a rising flood will cover the site of the city with two - hundred feet of water. - - "The ingenuity of man has been taxed in this work. Its isolated - position, the difficult physical conditions, the tremendous and - unexpected floods, have tried the mettle of the engineers. The - enormous amount of cement required was in itself a problem which - forced Uncle Sam to turn manufacturer in order to solve it. Nature, - having kindly furnished an ideal site for a dam, was thoughtful - enough to provide materials near at hand for making cement. A - cement mill was quickly erected at a cost of one hundred thousand - dollars. The downward rush of the river was utilized for electric - power to operate the mill, and many thousand barrels of first-class - cement have already been used in the works. - - "But while the city of Roosevelt, with the homes of its two - thousand inhabitants, is doomed, a fair valley is to be redeemed in - which the agricultural possibilities are not exceeded anywhere in - the world. Under almost tropical skies, with a soil of wonderful - fertility, the farmer in Salt River Valley will cultivate his - orange groves, his fig trees, his vines, while his broad meadows - will yield him heavy harvests of alfalfa six and seven times a year. - - "The great lake which will be created by the Roosevelt dam is to be - tapped by canals hundreds of miles long and extending all over the - broad valley around Phoenix. Vast areas now absolutely worthless - will be transformed quickly into blossoming orchards and purpling - vineyards, and hundreds of happy homes will dot a plain where now - the giant saguaro rears its spiny head and the Gila monster roams - at will." - -Life in the Far West is a continual series of the occurrence of such -events as these. Its problems are largely solved by the civil engineer -and the irrigation expert, who transform vast deserts to regions of -blossoming beauty, change the course of a river, send railroad trains -climbing the mountain peaks or penetrating beneath the range, and who -are, in short, the modern magicians who work their will with the forces -of nature. The National Reclamation Act is fairly recreating the entire -Southwest. - -The Gila River, which is the largest tributary of the Colorado, flows -through the regions south of Florence, Arizona, and affords water to -many fertile and beautiful valleys; and Florence, with the towns of -Yuma, Tucson, Glendale, Bisbee, Winslow, and others, is fully abreast -in modern life. Large department stores, public libraries, schools and -churches, women's clubs, daily newspapers, good railroad facilities, -free postal delivery,--all these make up the environment of a splendid -and progressive citizenship. As the Governor of Arizona, Hon. Joseph H. -Kirley, has recently said: - - "Nowhere can a man who respects his neighbor's rights, with - reasonably strict attention to his own business, go about with more - freedom and with greater confidence of personal safety than in - Arizona. Locked and barricaded doors are in most parts of Arizona a - novelty. The professional thief is almost unknown in the territory." - -The East--at least the portion of it that has not personally visited -the magic land of Arizona--can form little idea of its marvellous -resources and its potent achievements. - -The statehood problem looms up on the social and political horizon, -and there is a strong feeling that to force Arizona and New Mexico -into union would do violence to the judgment and the feeling of the -citizens of Arizona. For several years past the incipient possibility -of statehood on these terms has aroused widespread opposition. - -The local press voices almost daily the editorial convictions that such -a union would be most disastrous to the interests of Arizona--a country -which is simply a wonderland of treasure and rich and varied resources. -Arizona is settled chiefly by people from the great South and from New -England, the Middle West being hardly represented; its citizens are of -the best quality of our national life, and to unite them with those of -New Mexico--a large proportion of whom can hardly speak or understand -the English language even, to say nothing of their divergence in race, -requirements, and habits from the population of Arizona--would be -imposing upon them a century's delay in realizing the grand ideals of -education, moral progress, and economic development now prevailing in -Arizona. - -Phoenix has to-day a better public-school system than Boston, and -other surprising degrees of progress might be related of many of the -towns. - -Hon. N. O. Murphy, twice a Governor of Arizona, has recently made -an eloquent plea against forcing these two territories into union as -a state. Ex-Governor Murphy was appointed by President Harrison (in -1889) Secretary of Arizona. Under President Cleveland he was elected -the Delegate to Congress representing the territorial interests; and -on the expiration of this term he was appointed by President McKinley -the Governor of the territory. His experience has given him the most -intimate knowledge and wide grasp of territorial conditions, and in -a letter of three columns over his own signature to the "Washington -Post," appearing under date of February 25, 1906, ex-Governor Murphy -does not hesitate to say that were the Bill for united statehood -then pending before Congress passed, it would be one of the greatest -legislative outrages ever perpetrated in this country. "I refer -particularly to the proposed merger of the territories of Arizona and -New Mexico into a single state against the protests of the people of -those territories," he added. - -The ex-Governor points out these statistical facts: - - "The area of New England, comprising six states, with twelve - senators, is 66,465 square miles; the area of the territory of - Arizona is nearly twice as great, being 113,916 square miles. - - "The area of the territories of New Mexico and Arizona, now - proposed to be merged, is 235,600 square miles, or greater than - Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Vermont, Rhode Island, - Connecticut, Michigan, New York, Pennsylvania, Maryland, and New - Jersey, represented in the Upper House now by twenty-two senators." - -The fact that the population of New Mexico is largely Mexican, and that -of Arizona is mostly American, suggests a potent reason for the strong -feeling in Arizona against this proposition. Their racial instincts and -their business interests alike conflict. If they are joined as a single -state, there will be continual jealousy and friction, and legislation -to promote the interests of one-half the state will necessarily be at -the expense of the other. - -To the traveller sensitive to the spell of a strange, unearthly beauty, -Arizona prefigures itself as the country God remembered rather than as -"the country God forgot." It is at once the oldest and the newest of -the states. Its authentic and historic past antedates the coming of the -Mayflower to the rocky and desolate December shores of Massachusetts, -while its future flashes before one like an electric panorama -outspeeding wireless telegraphy. It is the Land of Magic and Mystery. -The light is a perpetual radiance, as if proceeding from some alchemy -of distilled sunshine. While Colorado is the Land of Perpetual Dawn, -of an heroic and poetic achievement, Arizona is the region of brooding -mystery, of strange surprise. - -There are the music and pictures of Arizona in her fertile valleys, -her wide rolling mesas; and the very melody of the wind harps meet and -mingle with the organ strains of sweeping orchestral effects of the -winds in the caņons and in wild, desolate gorges where impenetrable -twilight renders them a veritable No Man's Land. Mr. Aldrich's "Two -Shapes" might have met in that uncanny region of the Petrified Forest. -The very dance of the Brocken may nightly be seen in the midnight -fissures and steep precipices of the Grand Caņon. - -It is, however, essentially the land of mirage and mystery, this -wonderful Arizona! As one journeys about he half fancies that he hears -on the air those magic lines: - - "O birds of ether without wings! - O heavenly ships without a sail!" - -Every incredible thing is possible in this miracle country, where -purple mountain peaks quiver in the shimmering golden light, where -ruins of remote ages stand side by side with the primitive mechanism -of pioneer living, where snow-capped mountain peaks are watched from -valleys that have the temperature and the productions of the tropics. -Arizona contains unknown and undreamed-of resources of gold, copper, -and silver. The state has the richest possibilities in mineral wealth; -there are thousands of square miles of range lands; there is wealth of -forests, although it is a part of the miracle character of this state -of color and dream life that its forests are almost as much concealed -from casual view as are its minerals hidden in the depths of the -earth, for they are secluded in deep caņons or they are high out of -sight on the mountain summits. In fruits and flowers Arizona has the -luxurious growth and lavish abundance of the tropics, producing grapes, -figs, oranges, lemons, pomegranates, pineapples, and peaches,--almost -everything, indeed, unless it be the apples of Hesperides. - -Although Arizona has not the electric exhilaration and infinite energy -of Colorado, it has a delicious quality, as if the very air were a -caress. Though warm in the south, the heat has none of the enervating -effect of the heat where humidity combines with it. The heat here is -so dry, the air so pure, that there is little extreme discomfort even -when the mercury soars to legendary altitudes. In winter all Southern -Arizona is a paradise of loveliness. At this season the towns of -Florence, Phoenix, Tucson, Yuma, and other points invite one to the -balmy air, the luminous brilliant skies, and the nights, which are a -glory of starry illumination. Northern Arizona has a perfection of -summer climate, and the Grand Caņon is destined in the near future to -become one of the great summer resorts of the world. With the splendid -facilities for comfort offered by the arrangements, the traveller -finds all his accustomed conveniences, and the caņon has literally all -seasons for its own. There is one glory of July and another glory of -January; there is a transcendent loveliness of June, and an equally -indescribable charm of October. No month is without its special reasons -for visiting at that time this most marvellous scenic wonder of the -entire earth. - -In remote ages Arizona was evidently an inland sea. - -Montezuma Well, on the Verde River, some fifty miles from Prescott, is -one of the strange spectacles of Arizona. The well is on an elevated -mesa of solid limestone. It has a circular opening some six hundred -feet in diameter, as perfect as if carved by a skilled workman. From -the surface opening down to the water is a distance of some seventy -feet, and the water itself is over one hundred feet deep. It is -perfectly clear and pure. Near the well are several cave dwellings, and -fragments of pottery abound in the vicinity. There are beds of lava, -also revealing that the well is the crater of an extinct volcano. - -There can be no question but that Arizona is one of the most marvellous -regions of the world. Its interest to the tourist is not exceeded -by that of the Yellowstone, whose mountains and geysers and strange -color effects enchant poet and painter. For the caņon system of the -Arizona mountain ranges, the stupendous majesty of scenic grandeur -which reaches its supreme aspect in the Grand Caņon of the Colorado, -the wonders of extinct volcanic action, the colossal channels cut by -the action of water, the unearthly splendor of the coloring in sky and -atmospheric effects, all combine to make this state the very embodiment -and visible expression of magic and mystery. - -In the broken mountain ranges the detached peaks extend, with -narrow, fertile valleys lying between; while deep caņons and wild -gorges, with rushing mountain torrents, still further diversify the -grandeur of the panorama. Five great rivers add another impressive -feature,--the Colorado, the San Juan, the Salinas, the Verde, and the -San Francisco,--this system of rivers completing the most extraordinary -combination of mountain, valley, mesa, and caņon to be found in the -entire world. Numberless extinct volcanoes and vast lava beds add their -fantastic imagery; and the metamorphic rock strata, recording the most -violent volcanic upheavals, tell the prehistoric story of the fiery -molten flood which swept over all this region when the earth was new. - -As has perhaps been suggested in the preceding pages, life in Arizona -is by no means without its features of entertainment. These include -various aspects, not to mention one that is by no means to be enjoyed -in any of the great Eastern centres,--that of the exclusive annual -festivity of the "Snake Dance." Chicago and Paris, New York and London, -may find social entertainment in balls and opera, dancing and dining, -but in Arizona one goes to this entertainment on the Painted Desert; -and if in some happy summer of life one's horoscope has deflected his -course into Arizona and Colorado, one comes to regard those fascinating -localities with the devotion of a native of their sunny climes. - -After all, it is not length of time in any experience of life that is -significant, but intensity of feeling, and one finds himself really -living more intensely in a few weeks in the Far West, in all its wonder -world, than in years or decades of his accustomed rounds in Eastern -cities. - -This entertainment of the Snake Dance is furnished by the Moki Indians -at their camp some seventy miles over the desert from Flagstaff. There -is no means of conveyance save by wagons. The journey is over sagebrush -and sand, enlivened by stones and cacti. The horses can make only slow -progress. But the air is simply delightful and full of exhilaration, -and the particular desert over which those who fare forth for this -æsthetic spectacle must pass is the "Painted Desert," whose walls of -rocks and mountains, brilliant in a dream of color, recede as they are -approached, and thus the entire two days consumed in the journey are -a perpetual delight to the eye. The wayfarers camp out overnight, and -during the five days' journey--two days to go, two to return, and one -to stay--their wants are, perforce, reduced to the most primitive. -As the festivity lasts only twenty-eight minutes, it is certainly -spending a good deal of time and energy in order to behold so brief a -spectacle. But one is told it is worth all the fatigue and the time. It -is a religious rite of the Moki Indians, and is a prayer for rain. The -description of it is a literal one, for the dancers hold from one to -three snakes--and rattlesnakes at that--in the mouth as they perform -their strange gyrations. The dancers are the "braves," while the squaws -chant a crooning accompaniment. - -One student of this Indian rite has said: - - "With the first glow in the east the priests hasten to the shrine - of the Sun God with their offerings, the luminary himself being - greeted with a prayer or with songs as he slowly emerges from - behind the mesa in the Far East. Later the priests repair to their - homes, and return to the kiva, bearing the ceremonial paraphernalia - with which, early in the afternoon, they robe themselves in - gorgeous array preparatory to the dance, which is given usually - before the sun sets behind the San Francisco Peaks. - - "As the priests emerge from the kiva, where they wait in line until - all have appeared, there is the hush of expectancy throughout the - village; the inhabitants now line the terraces, house-tops and - every available spot around the dance plaza, all being attired - in their gayest and brightest costumes. In single file and with - measured tread comes the line of priests. Entering the plaza, they - wheel about and begin a slow, short dance, the time of the step - being accompanied by the shaking of rattles and by the singing of - sacred songs. The dance is over all too soon, when the spectators - return to their camps and the priests to the kiva, where great - quantities of food have been brought for them. Finally, in a - great feast, they break the fast, which, on the part of the chief - priests, has been maintained for many days." - -It is quite by way of being love's labor lost to visit Arizona during -that period of time devoted to the Moqui Festival. Apparently the -entire population betake themselves to this entertainment, journeying -over the desert in their wagons, carrying with them their beds, -their food, and every necessity, for except what they take with them -they must do without. But as all the world, alas, cannot or does not -dwell in Arizona,--a region in which any one sunset alone is worth -the journey there,--and is thus deprived of the unique privilege of -assisting at the Snake Dance, the next best thing, as a substitute, -is to read the new work of George Wharton James (the author of "In -and Around the Grand Canyon") called "Indians of the Painted Desert -Region." It is the very gateway to a wide and deeply interesting -knowledge of Indian life in Arizona and its relation to advancing -civilization. It is the presentation of a series of wonderful -landscapes in a vivid manner of word-picturing. - -"Wild, weird, and mystic pictures are formed in the mind by the very -name--Painted Desert," writes Mr. James. "The sound suggests a fabled -rather than a real land. Surely it must be akin to Atlantis or the -island of Circe or the place where the Cyclops lived. Is it not a -land of enchantment and dreams, not a place for living men and women, -Indians though they be?" - -It seems that the Spaniards gave the name "El Pintado Deserto"--the -Painted Desert. - -"Stand with me," writes Mr. James, "on the summit of one of the -towering mountains that guard the region, and you will see such a -landscape of color as exists nowhere else in the world. It suggests the -thought of God's original palette, where he experimented in color ere -he decided how to paint the sunset, tint the sun-kissed hills at dawn, -give red to the rose, green to the leaves, yellow to the sunflowers.... -Look! here is a vast field of alkali,--fine, dazzling white. Yonder is -a mural face half a thousand feet high and two hundred or more miles -long. It is over a hundred miles away, but it reveals the rich glowing -red of its walls, and between it and us are vast patches of pinks, -grays, greens, carmines, blue, yellow, crimson, and brown, blending -in every conceivable shade in a strange and grotesque yet fascinating -manner. It is a rainbow petrified. It is a sunset painted on desert -sands." - -And here art and archæology may revel. "History--exciting, thrilling, -tragic--has been made in the Painted Desert region; was being made -centuries before Lief Ericson landed on the shores of Vinland or John -and Sebastian Cabot sailed from Bristol.... In the Painted Desert -region we find peoples strange, peculiar, and interesting, whose -mythology is more fascinating than that of ancient Greece, and for -aught we know to the contrary, may be equally ancient; whose ceremonies -of to-day are more elaborate than those of a devout Catholic, more -complex than those of a Hindoo Pantheist, more weird than those of -a howling dervish of Turkistan.... One of the countries comprised in -the Painted Desert region is the theme of an epoch ... reciting deeds -as brave and heroic as those of the Greeks at Marathon or Thermopylæ; -a poem recently discovered after having been buried in the tomb of -oblivion for over two hundred years. Here are peoples to whom a written -letter is witchcraft and sorcery, and yet who can read the heavens, -interpret the writings of the clouds, deserts, and caņons with unerring -certainty.... A land it is of witchcraft and sorcery, of horror and -dread of ghosts and goblins, of daily propitiations of fates and -powers, and princes of darkness and air, at the very thought of whom -withering injuries are sure to come." - -One is tempted to run on and on in quotation from this fascinating -book, which depicts the strange life and the marvellous scenery in the -country "where atmospheric colorings are so perfect and so divinely -artistic that desolate deserts are made dreams of glory." - -Harriet Monroe, the Chicago poet, playwright, and most charming of -essayists, who by no means limits her séances with the Muses to those -particular hours in which she dons her singing robes, has given this -prose-poem picture of a scene on the "Painted Desert": - - "The rocks lay in belts as red as flame, yellow as gold, purple - as violets, and they seemed to shine of their own light; the City - of Rocks, flaming red, and high as mountains; one thousand foot - walls sheer to the desert, all carved in needles, spires, towers, - castles--the most tremendous thing on earth--there it lay!" - -Of the sudden climatic changes of the desert Professor James says: - - "I have been almost frozen in its piercing snowstorms; choked - with sand in its whirling sandstorms; wet through ere I could - dismount from my horse in its fierce rainstorms; terrified and - temporarily blinded by the brilliancy of its lightning storms, - and almost sunstruck by the scorching power of the sun in its - desolate confines.... With my horses I have camped, again and - again, waterless, on its arid and inhospitable rocks and sands, and - prayed for morning, only to resume our exhausting journey in the - fiercely beating rays of the burning sun; longing for some pool of - water, no matter how dirty, how stagnant, that our parched tongues - and throats might feel the delight of swallowing something fluid. - And last year (1902), in a journey to the home of the Hopi, my - friends and I saw a part of this desert covered with the waters of - a fierce rainstorm as if it were an ocean, and the 'dry-wash' of - the Oraibi the scene of a flood that for hours equalled the rapids - of the Colorado River. Desert though it is in the main,--barren, - wild, and desolate,--here and there within its boundaries are - fertile valleys, wooded slopes, and garden spots as rich as any - on earth; and the people who make their dwelling-place in this - inhospitable land present characteristics as strongly contrasted - as those of nature. Here are peoples of uncertain and mysterious - origin whose history is preserved only in fantastic legends and - traditional songs; whose government is as pure and perfect as that - of the patriarchs, and possibly as ancient, and yet more republican - than the most modern of existing governments; peoples whose women - build and own the houses, and whose men weave the garments of the - women, knit the stockings of their own wear, and are as expert - with needle and thread as their ancestors were with bow and arrow, - obsidian-tipped spear, or stone battle-axe.... Here are peoples - of stupendous religious beliefs. Peoples who can truthfully be - designated as the most religious of the world, yet peoples as - agnostic and sceptic, if not as learned as Hume, Voltaire, Spencer, - and Ingersoll. Peoples to whom a written letter is witchcraft - and sorcery, and yet who can read the heavens, interpret the - writings of the woods, deserts, and caņons with a certainty never - failing.... Here are intelligent farmers who for centuries have - scientifically irrigated their lands and yet who cut off the ears - of their burros to keep them from stealing corn.... Peoples who - pray by machinery as the Burmese use their prayer wheels, and who - 'plant' supplications as a gardener plants trees and shrubs.... - Peoples who are pantheists, sun worshippers, and snake dancers, - yet who have churches and convents built with incredible labor and - as extensive as any modern cathedral. Peoples whose conservatism - in manners and religion surpasses that of the veriest English - Tories; who for hundreds of years have steadily and successfully - resisted all efforts to 'convert' and change them, and who to-day - are as firm in their faiths as ever.... Peoples to whom fraternal - organizations and secret societies, for men and women alike, are as - ancient as the mountains they inhabit, whose lodgerooms are more - wonderful, and whose signs and passwords more complex, than those - of any organization of civilized lands and modern times." - -One of the most weird and fascinating experiences in Arizona is a visit -to "Assamanuda," the "Country of the Departed Spirits." This is the -poetic name the Iroquois Indians give to the Painted Desert. This vast -plain stretches away with gigantic horizontal columns, the remains of -vast layers of sedimentary rock, from which the rains of prehistoric -ages have washed away the connecting earth, and the columns are -streaked and mottled with scarlet, due, it is said, to the oxidization -of particles of feldspar in the granite of which these rocks are -composed. Here may be witnessed in its perfection the Fata Morgana. In -the air appear palaces, hanging gardens, and temples; fountains and -wonderful parks adorned with sculpture; towers and turreted castles; -beautiful villas with terraced lawns and cascades of water thrown high -in the air; rose gardens and hills, where the deer and the antelope are -seen; all these and other visions of loveliness are pictured on the air -in a perfection of light and shading. It is not difficult to fancy that -one is really gazing into the ethereal world, beyond the pearly gates, -and gazing indeed into "the country of departed spirits." - -[Illustration: SUWARA (GIANT CACTUS), SALT RIVER VALLEY, ARIZONA] - -All Northern and Northeastern Arizona are comprised in the -region,--Nature's picture gallery. Dr. Newberry, the geologist, who -explored all the regions east of the upper Colorado as far as the -junction of the Green and the Grand rivers, thus pictures one view of -the plateau: - - "Directly south the view was bounded by the high and distant mesas - of the Navajo country, succeeded in the southwest by the still - more lofty battlements of the great white mesa formerly seen from - the Moqui pueblos. On these high tablelands the outlines were not - only distinctly visible, but grand and impressive at the distance - of a hundred miles. Nearly west a great gap opened in the high - tablelands through which the San Juan flows to its junction with - the Colorado. The distance between the mesa walls is perhaps ten - miles, and scattered over it are castle-like buttes and slender - towers, none of which can be less than a thousand feet in height, - their sides absolutely perpendicular and their forms wonderful - imitations of architectural art. Illuminated by the setting sun the - outlines of these singular objects come out sharp and distinct with - such exact similitude to art that we could hardly resist conviction - that we beheld the walls and towers of some ancient Cyclopean city, - hitherto undiscovered." - -Every journey in Arizona seems to lead on into an enchanted world. -The gray valley road, the curious mesa formations that stretch into -infinite distances; the mystic apparition in the Estrella range of -the Montezuma faces; the ruins of Casa Grande, which tell their tale -of a massive city that once existed here; the ruins on the Rio -Verde; the mounds and shafts discovered belonging to some prehistoric -civilization; the ancient watch tower; the painted rocks, with their -extensive hieroglyphics,--all speak to the archæologist in a language -that fascinates the imagination. Its three greatest features--the -Grand Caņon, regarding which there is neither speech nor language; -the Petrified Forest, and that Submerged Star known as "Meteorite -Mountain"--would alone make it the world mecca of scientists; to say -nothing of the strange ruins of prehistoric peoples, of an unearthly -beauty of atmospheric coloring, and of the contemporary scientific -interest of the great Lowell Observatory at Flagstaff, or the splendid -progress and development of the people. It might well have been of this -marvellous country that Emerson wrote: - - "And many a thousand summers - My gardens ripened well, - And light from meliorating stars - With firmer glory fell. - - "I wrote the past in characters - Of rock and fire the scroll, - The building in the coral sea, - The planting of the coal. - - "And thefts from satellites and rings - And broken stars I drew, - And out of spent and aged things - I formed the world anew." - -What is the world that shall be in this mystic Arizona? What, indeed, -was the world that has been there? Imagination falters alike before -the stupendous marvels of its past, the picturesque splendors of its -future. Its scenic grandeur will make Arizona a world centre; the -nations from afar will make their pilgrimage to the sublimest marvels -of all nature's revelations to this planet. Here will be sought the -counsel of the gods. The message of the prehistoric past and of the -undiscovered future will "give the law of night and day" in wonderful -Arizona, the land of magic and mystery. - - - - -CHAPTER IX - -THE PETRIFIED FOREST AND THE METEORITE MOUNTAIN - - "_A spell is laid on sod and stone, - Night and day are tampered with. - Every quality and pith - Surcharged and sultry with a power - That works its will on age and hour._" - - EMERSON - - -A June day in the Petrified Forests of Arizona is an experience that -can never fade from memory. Every excursion into this strange, uncanny -realm of Arizona, which is an empire in its area; every journey one -takes, every trail he follows, leads into strange and fascinating -locality; and Adamana, the gateway to the Petrified Forests, has its -own spellbinding power for the tourist. Adamana consists of a water -tank, the station, and two bungalows, in one of which very comfortable -entertainment is offered, and in the other of which dwells a character -whom all travellers meet,--Adam Hanna, a distant relative of the -late Mark Hanna, the original settler of this region. For a long -time the place was known as Adam Hanna's, and when with advancing -civilization this designation became too colloquial for an up-to-date -twentieth-century world, the elision of two or three letters gave the -present attractive name,--Adamana. - -To leave the comfortable ease of a Pullman sleeper at the witching hour -of five in the morning to stop over at Adamana and visit the Petrified -Forest requires a degree of fortitude beyond that usually calculated. -Left to one's self, one would emulate the example of the man who -journeyed to the north pole to see a sunrise that occurred only three -days in the year. On the first two mornings he refused to rise on the -plea of the further extension of his opportunities; on the third, when -his servant reminded him that it was the "last call," he turned over -and philosophically remarked that he would come again next year. But -the dusky porter allows the tourist no such margin for reflection, and -one finds himself standing in some wonderful place spellbound by the -witchery of the desert, and the long train vanishing in the distance, -almost before he knows whether he has exchanged the land of dreams for -the land of day and daylight realities,--for this weird and mystic -panorama of the infinite desert, with the bluest of turquoise skies -already lighted by the blazing splendor of the June sunrise, and the -grotesque, uncanny buttes scattered at intervals all over that vast -plain. The intense silence was unbroken save by the voice and footstep -of the man representing the little bungalow termed the Forest Hotel. -Contrary to one's preconceived ideas of an Arizona desert, the morning -was cold, and the blazing fire and hot coffee were most grateful. But -where was the "Petrified Forest"? one marvelled. Away on the horizon -gleamed an evanescent, palpitating region of shimmering color. Yet this -was not the "quarry of jewels," but the "Bad Lands," which have at -least one redeeming virtue, whatever their vices,--that of producing -the most aërial and fairy-like color effects imaginable. - -It is astonishing how swiftly one relinquishes preconceived ideas of -living and learns to get on without electric bells, long-distance -telephones, and elaborate conveniences in general, even to the -"prepared air," strained through thin layers of cloth, as the latest -superfine condition added to a great New York hotel, and adapts one's -self to a mode of life in which a simple but very clean room, primitive -food, wonderful air, good, kind people, and a petrified forest to amuse -him, take the place of the complex and elaborate life of the great -Eastern cities. At Adamana one finds himself seventy-five miles from -Gallup, New Mexico, the nearest town of any importance, from which -all household supplies must be ordered. When the coffee gives out, -for instance, seventy-five miles from a lemon; and when a Sunday and -a holiday have almost followed each other, thus delaying all orders, -one has then the most delightful and spacious opportunities for -experimenting on the simple life. The desert offers other things; and -while these do not include the menu of Sherry's, for instance, they -do include certain allurements for which the country might be searched -in vain, as they only exist on the Colorado desert. The quality of the -air, the color of the sky, the marvel of color vistas,--all make up a -new world in which one finds himself fairly questioning regarding his -own identity. Nor has he any apparent test by which to determine-- - - "If I am I, as I do hope I be." - -Perhaps, indeed, he does not so tenaciously cling to that which he -remembers of himself yesterday, and is rather interested, on the -whole, in accepting some possibly new transformation of his being. The -locality seems to him sufficiently well indicated as being, according -to his first impression, simply somewhere in the magic and witchery -of space. This address might not be accepted by the government postal -service, but even that heretofore indispensable matter in some way -fades into comparative insignificance. What does one who has an Arizona -sky, and a bewildering shimmer of color afar on the horizon that might -be - - "A painted ship upon a painted ocean" - -or almost anything else,--what does he want of the sublunary detail -of eight postal deliveries a day, beginning at half-past seven in -the morning, with his first dawn of returning consciousness, and -ending with midnight, when he is, very likely, summoned out of his -sleep by the rap of a bellboy delivering more mail,--more,--as if he -had not been under an avalanche of it all day and had sought refuge -in dreamland for the very purpose of escaping the vigilance of his -national postal service. But one may as well accept the fact as one -from which there is no appeal, that in the heart of civilization he -cannot escape its burdens and its penalties. He can only evade them -by going to--Adamana, for instance; Adamana, the metropolis of the -railroad water-tank, the station, and two bungalows. Even these are too -many. One bungalow is enough. He cannot repose in two at the same time; -and as for neighbors and news,--has he not the stars and the sunsets? -What does Emily Dickinson say?-- - - "The only news I know - Is bulletins all day - From Immortality." - -There are no birds to - - "... carol undeceiving things," - -as in Colorado; but there is, instead, intense silence,--a silence so -absolutely intense as to be, by a paradox, fairly vocal; and if one -does but catch the music of the spheres for which he finds himself -listening, it must be that his powers of hearing are defective. One -recalls the lines: - - "Who loves the music of the spheres - And lives on earth, must close his ears - To many voices that he hears." - -The "many voices" are stilled; one has left them at least seventy-five -miles away,--in Gallup, for instance! Gallup, that for the time -prefigures itself to him as his New York, his Paris, his London. It is -the source of all his possible supplies; and that it does not assume an -overwhelming importance is simply because he does not want any supplies -of the particular nature that Gallup--or Paris--can furnish. He has -achieved something more than the power to satisfy all his (former) -multitudinous wants; he has eliminated them. - -To be sure, the Chinese have a proverb that it is not worth while to -cut off one's feet to save buying shoes. Yet, if instead of depriving -himself of feet he has achieved wings, why, manifestly, there is no -need of shoes. There are, when one comes to think of it, a vast number -of things in our late civilization for which there is no special need. - - "For a cap and bells our lives we pay; - Bubbles we earn with a whole soul's tasking: - 'Tis heaven alone that is given away; - 'Tis only God may be had for the asking." - -In fact, when one comes to reflect upon the aspects of his former life -(as he sees them in mental panorama from Adamana), he can only arrive -at the conclusion that life is unnecessarily choked and submerged -under an ever-increasing burden of _things_. Emerson, of course, whose -insight saw the universe as a crystal sphere which revealed to his -vision its entire working mechanism,--Emerson long since announced that - - "Things are in the saddle - And ride mankind." - -Why should one be ridden by things? Why should he enslave -himself,--mortgage his entire powers of achievement, such as they are, -to pay his bills to the butcher, the baker, and the candlestick maker? -Is not the life more than meat, and the spirit than fine raiment? So he -may dream for the moment, gazing meditatively at the water-tank, the -station, and the two bungalows that comprise Adamana. Good for that day -only, at least, is its contrast to the bewildering din of _entrepôts_, -of ports, of custom-houses, of the general din and warfare of the world -he has left behind. - -Holbrook, the other station for the Petrified Forests, is twenty miles -away. Flagstaff, a very thriving and interesting Arizona town, famous -as the site of the Observatory of Prof. Percival Lowell of Boston, -is one hundred and fifty miles to the west; and one hour of railroad -journey beyond Flagstaff is Williams, the town from which runs the -branch railroad to the Grand Caņon over the rolling mesas crowned -with the beautiful peaks of the San Francisco mountains, a distance -of sixty-three miles, the journey occupying three hours. The nearest -town to Adamana station, in which a daily paper is published, is -Albuquerque, in New Mexico, which is nine hundred and thirty-five -miles to the east, almost as far as from New York to Chicago. The -metropolis to which this region looks as its nearest large city is Los -Angeles, twenty-six hours distant. So here one is out of the world, so -to speak,-- - - "The world forgetting, by the world forgot,"-- - -with the vast rolling mesas, with sandstone cliffs offering an uncanny -landscape before the eye, with the eternal blue of Arizona skies -bending above, with a silence so deep brooding over the desert that one -might well feel himself on the moon rather than on earth,--a silence -only broken by the semi-daily rush of the long overland trains and -occasional freight lines that pass. - -[Illustration: SAN FRANCISCO PEAK, NEAR FLAGSTAFF, ARIZONA] - -John Muir, the famous California naturalist, explorer, and author of -valuable books on the Western parks, passed the winter of 1905-06 at -Adamana with his two daughters, the Misses Wanda and Helen Muir, and it -is he who has discovered the new Petrified Forest which he calls the -"Blue Forest"--all the specimens having a deep blue tone, while the -other three are simply quarries of red moss, agate, amethyst, topaz, -pale rose crystals gleaming against a smoky green ground. The landscape -effect of the "Bad Lands" from the little bungalow known as the Forest -Hotel is of fairy-like enchantment. A shimmer of rose and gray and gold -and emerald, it gleams on the horizon. Lighted by a blazing sunset, it -might well be the gates of a New Jerusalem. Anything more exquisite, -and more ineffably ethereal in coloring, one might journey far to seek. - - "Moreover, something is, or seems, - That touches us like mystic gleams, - Like glimpses of forgotten dreams." - -These lines may, perchance, come echoing around one in the air as he -loiters at night on the low, long piazza, while the myriad meteors of -Arizona skies blaze their way through the transparent air and a sky -full of stars contends with the moon for brilliancy; the unearthly, -delicate, ethereal coloring of the "Bad Lands" gleaming resplendent on -the distant horizon. - -If the wanderer has fallen upon particularly fortunate days in his -horoscope and found Miss Wanda Muir--her quaint name coming from her -mother, the daughter of a Polish nobleman--to drive him out to this -marvellous "forest" of stone, he will have a pleasure enhanced by -interesting conversation. A graduate of Berkeley College in California, -and the constant companion of her father in his wanderings, Miss Muir -is indeed an ideal guide, and under her hand one June morning the -two horses sped along over the rough, stony ground at a pace to set -every fibre tingling. One of the features of the Arizona desert is the -arroyo, a dry stream, a ready-made river, so to speak, minus the water. -Some of these even have a stream of flowing water, only it is under the -bed of the river rather than on top of it, for Arizona is the land of -magic and wonder and of a general reversal of accepted conditions. - -"Sometimes in driving out here," said Miss Muir, "a cloudburst comes -up while we are in the Petrified Forests, and on returning the horses -have to swim this dry stream. Once the water was so high it came into -the wagon. Not infrequently, when we go out to the forest, some one -comes dashing after us on horseback to warn us to get back as quickly -as possible, or the torrents of water from a sudden cloudburst will -cut us off altogether, perhaps for a day and a night." The pleasing -uncertainty of life in Arizona may be realized from this danger of -being suddenly drowned in the arid sands of a desert, and being -confronted with a sudden Lodore that descends from the heavens on a -midsummer noon. But, as one is constantly saying to himself, Arizona is -the land of surprises. No known laws of meteorology, or of any other -form of science, hold good here. The mountain peak transforms itself -into the bottom of a sea, and the sea suddenly upheaves itself in air -and figures as a mountain. Arizona is nature's kaleidoscope; it is the -land of transformation. - -Of the three petrified forests, each separated by a mile or two, the -first is reached by a drive of some six miles, while the third is more -than twice as far. The second is the largest and most elaborate, and -in the aggregate they cover an area of over two thousand acres. The -ground is the high rolling mesas, and over it are scattered, "thick -as leaves in Vallombrosa," the jewel-like fragments of mighty trees in -deposits that are the wonder of the scientist. From the huge fallen -tree trunks, many of these being over two hundred feet in length and -of similar proportions in diameter, to the mere chips and twigs, the -forests are transmuted into agate and onyx and chalcedony. Numbers of -these specimens contain perfect crystals. They are vivid and striking -in color,--in rich Byzantine red, deep greens and purples and yellow, -white and translucent, or dark in all color blendings. Great blocks -of agate cover many parts of the forest. Hundreds of entire trees are -seen. When cut transversely these logs show the bark, the inner fibre, -and veining as perfectly as would a living tree. And over all these -fallen monarchs of a prehistoric forest bends the wonderful turquoise -sky of Arizona, and the air is all the liquid gold of the intense -sunshine. - -At Tiffany's in New York may be seen huge slabs and sections of this -petrified wood under high polish. A fine exhibit of it was made at -the Paris exposition in 1900, and a specimen of it was presented to -Rodin, the great sculptor, who was incredulous of the possibility that -this block, apparently of onyx, could have been wood. Through all the -forests are these strange rock formations called buttes, rising in the -most weird shapes from the sand and stones and sagebrush of the vast -desert. What a treasure-ground of antiquity! This region, which seems -a plain, is yet higher than the top of Mount Washington, and the -altitude insures almost perpetual coolness. Scientists seem to agree in -the theory that the petrified forests are a debatable phenomenon whose -origin eludes any final conclusion. It is possible that some mighty -sea suddenly arose--perhaps as the present Salton Sea in Southern -California--and engulfed them. The land is partly the "bad lands" and -partly a sandy plain covered with petrifactions. The third forest -contains hundreds of unbroken tree trunks, of which some are over two -hundred feet in length. Many of these are partly imbedded in the earth. - -All around this high plateau rise on the horizon surrounding cliffs -to the height of one hundred and fifty and more feet, serrated into -ravines and gorges, variegated with the sandstone formations in all -their shimmer of colors, and indicating that this basin was once the -bottom of a sea. - -It is the paradise of the ethnologist as well as of the geologist. -Besides cliff ruins and hieroglyphics, almost anywhere, by chance, one -may find traces of submerged walls, and following these, a man with -an ordinary spade may dig up prehistoric pottery, skeletons, beads, -rings, and occasionally necklaces. The pottery, both in design and in -scheme of decoration, shows a high degree of civilization. Who were -these prehistoric peoples who had built their pueblos and created their -implements and pottery and were already old when Plymouth Rock was new? -Much of the symbolic creation here still awaits its interpreter. - -From these millions of tons of glistening, shining blocks and segments -and tree trunks the tourist is not allowed to carry away specimens -_carte blanche_, as formerly. The Petrified Forests are now a -government reservation, although not yet one of the government parks. -Small specimens, within a reasonable amount, are permitted the tourist -as souvenirs. - -The Petrified Forests are quarries rather than forests; the great -fallen logs, branches, and chips, lying prostrate on the ground, are -seen glowing and gleaming like jewels. So far as the eye can reach -there is not a human habitation. Over the infinite stretch of sand and -rocks bends the bluest of skies, and here and there are prehistoric -Indian mines, and one ledge of cliffs on which are strange and as yet -undeciphered hieroglyphics. The graves of the prehistoric inhabitants -of this region are numerous, each containing rare and choice specimens -of pottery which are dug out intact. This region seems to have been -once thickly populated. The remains of pueblos are numerous. Skeletons -are constantly being found. - -Although the visitor is not allowed to carry away with him a trainload -or so of specimens, he may still be permitted a beautiful cross-section -of an entire tree trunk, showing all the veins of the wood and the -bark, a specimen thin enough to be portable, and worthy a place in -any cabinet of curiosities, besides many chips showing all the range -of beautiful colors which abound in Chalcedony Park. In this park -lies a vast fallen tree trunk that forms a natural bridge over a -chasm,--a bridge that seems to be of solid agate. These forests are -among the great scenic wonders of the world, and if they were in the -heart of the Himalayas or some other especially inaccessible spot, -all good Americans would hasten to visit them. But our own wonderful -and incomparable scenic grandeur is neglected. These "Petrified -Forests" are the marvel of the geologist. What has happened, in all -the phenomena of nature, to produce this incredible spectacle? Many -scientific men believe that these forests did not grow on the spot -where they now would lie prostrate, but were swept down by floods when -this region was a vast inland sea, and that they became imbedded in the -sand; that then the sea vanished and volcanic eruptions poured over, -and the wood was hardened to rock. Again, a flood of water passed over -and washed away the sand and silt, and the erosion left these thousands -of acres of petrifactions exposed on the surface as now; and thus, -after millenniums have passed, we have these quarries of chalcedony and -agate, onyx, cornelian, topaz, and amethyst. - -Every evening at Adamana disclosed a sky panorama of kaleidoscopic -wonder. Afar to the horizon the Bad Lands shimmered in a faint dream -of colors under the full moon. The stars seemed to hang midway in the -air, and frequent meteors blazed through the vast, mysterious space. -Adamana is nine hours from Albuquerque, the metropolis of New Mexico, -and five hours distant from Flagstaff, to the west. All the thousands -of acres of desert lands about require only water to render them richly -productive. But water is unattainable. There are no mountain ranges -near enough to produce water storage, and unless the twentieth-century -scientists discover some way of creating rain, these arid regions must -remain as they are. Yet even here American life and energy and progress -are seen. The scattered settlers unite in maintaining public schools -six months in the year, and with only from twelve to twenty pupils the -teacher is paid from seventy-five to eighty dollars a month,--more than -twice the salary paid in the country schools in New England. In the -little bungalow here at Adamana, where Mr. Stevenson, the government -guardian of the Petrified Forests, makes tourists strangely comfortable -during their desert sojourn, one finds a piano, a well-selected little -library, and young people whose command of the violin and piano -offer music that is by no means unacceptable. The children get music -lessons--no one knows how; they are eager for any instruction in -language, and acquire French and Spanish in some measure, and in all -ways the national ambition is sustained. From Albuquerque comes a daily -paper, and only one day behind date the Los Angeles papers arrive. One -is not out of the world (alas!) even on the Arizona desert. - -It is a new world in itself,--the desert of Arizona. No region on the -earth is more diversified, more intensely interesting. This desert -comprises mountains and plains; it contains that one supreme scenic -wonder of the world, the Grand Caņon; in it are Caņon Diablo and the -Meteorite Mountain. Within its area also is the "Tonto Basin,"--an -incalculable chaos of isolated and unrelated cliffs, and crags of -mountains peaks that have lost their mountains, and general wreck and -ruin. One might fancy that at the end of creation, when the universe -itself was completed, all the chips and fragments and débris in -general were hurled into the Tonto Basin,--only that, of course, the -universe was never "made," but is always in the making; only that the -physical configuration of the entire earth is always in process of -transformation into new aspects, and nowhere is this progress of the -ages more extraordinarily in evidence than in Arizona. - -Leaving the Petrified Forest for the Grand Caņon, one has a wonderful -journey of six hours to Williams, and thence three hours over the -branch road to Bright Angel, where the new and magnificent hotel, "El -Tovar," captivates the travellers, and from which a stage runs to Grand -View, thirteen miles away, where Vishnu Temple, the Coliseum, Solomon's -Temple, and other wonders of the marvellous sandstone architecture, in -the depths of the Grand Caņon are viewed. - -In waiting for the train on the branch road running from Williams to -the Grand Caņon over the beautiful San Franciscan mountains, the -hour of waiting at Williams is made a delight by a most unique and -interesting curiosity shop under the splendid Harvey management, where -all kinds of natural curiosities and Indian and Mexican things are -shown. The walls are hung with bright-hued blankets and rugs, the -ceiling is decorated and draped, easy-chairs and sofas abound, and -these tend to make the journey a kind of royal progress. - -In 1540 Pedro de Tovar, one of the officers who accompanied Coronado -through his great expedition, passed through Arizona. Even then an -extinct civilization was already old. The ruins of the dwellings of -those prehistoric people abound near Flagstaff. In the recesses of -Walnut Caņon there are found cliff-dwellings in great numbers. "Some -of these are in ruins, and have but a narrow shelf of the once broad -floor of solid rock left to evidence their extreme antiquity. Others -are almost wholly intact, having stubbornly resisted the weathering of -time." Nothing but fragments of pottery now remain of the many quaint -implements and trinkets that characterized these dwellings at the time -of their discovery. - - "Fixed like swallows' nests upon the face of a precipice, - approachable from above or below only by deliberate and cautious - climbing, these dwellings have the appearance of fortified retreats - rather than habitual abodes. That there was a time in the remotest - past when warlike peoples of mysterious origin passed southward - over this plateau is generally credited. And the existence of - the cliff-dwellings is ascribed to the exigencies of that dark - period when the inhabitants of the plateau, unable to cope with - the superior energy, intelligence, and numbers of the descending - hordes, devised these unassailable retreats. All their quaintness - and antiquity cannot conceal the deep pathos of their being, - for tragedy is written all over these poor hovels hung between - earth and sky. Their builders hold no smallest niche in recorded - history. Their aspirations, their struggles, and their fate are all - unwritten, save on these crumbling stones, which are their sole - monument and meagre epitaph. Here once they dwelt. They left no - other print on time." - -Flagstaff is a pleasant mountain town some seven thousand feet above -sea level, and is particularly fortunate in being the site of the -Lowell Observatory, founded by Professor Percival Lowell of Boston, -which brings eminent astronomers and scientists to the place. In the -Lowell Observatory some of the best work in modern science is being -accomplished, and Professor Lowell and his staff have for some years -been devoting themselves to the special study of Mars. Flagstaff was -selected for the site of the observatory on account of the singularly -clear and still air of Arizona. It is an atmosphere almost without -vibration. Never were distances more curiously deceiving to the eye -than in Arizona. A point that is apparently only a few yards away may -be, in reality, at a distance of two miles. Professor Lowell and his -staff have, therefore, exceptional facilities for their work, and Mr. -Carl Otto Lampland, the stellar photographer of the staff, has taken -impressions of Mars that seem to leave little doubt in the minds of -experts that canals on that planet reflect themselves by the camera. -This achievement is recognized by astronomers everywhere as marking -an epoch in the study of Mars and as fairly closing the argument -regarding the possibility of canals on that body by bringing their -construction there as an unquestionable fact. It was Schiaparelli, the -Italian astronomer, who first observed what he believed were canals -on Mars. His report was received with incredulity; but his theory has -been so reinforced and supported by actual results of observations -since then that it is now generally accepted. Early in the decade of -1880-90 Professor Lowell began a special study at Flagstaff with his -fine twenty-four-inch telescope, but it was in May, 1905, that the -first results of real significance were obtained. The light about Mars -is said to be faint, and the vibrations in the air, though less in -Arizona than is usual elsewhere, still produced disturbing effects on -the plate. It is said that Mr. Lampland overcame this difficulty after -a long series of experiments, "by using a diaphragm on the telescope, -cutting down the aperture from twenty-four inches to twelve inches, -as a rule. Though this diaphragming of a photographic lens is not -new, this was the first time it was applied to a glass as large as -twenty-four inches in diameter and for such faint objects. Hitherto -astronomers have been more concerned with availing themselves of the -light-gathering power of the large lenses. It was a distinct advance, -and is the one step to which the largest share of the credit is due of -successfully photographing the canals." - -In the vestibule of the Institute of Technology in Boston were shown in -the spring of 1906 a number of these photographs. To the uninitiated -they merely presented a black ground with white lines faintly defined. -Professor Lowell says that the special significance of the photographs -lies in the fact that they corroborate the results shown by other -photographers of Mars, and that they also corroborate the methods. That -the sensitive plate of the camera will record a star never visible -through even the strongest glass, and thus prove its existence, is a -wonderful fact in stellar photography. - -Caņon Diablo is one of the volcanic phenomena of Arizona,--a narrow -chasm some two hundred and fifty feet deep, several miles long, -and five or six hundred feet wide, which the Santa Fé road crosses -on a wonderful steel spider-web bridge a few miles before reaching -Flagstaff. It is one of the curious things for which the tourist is -watching. For so intensely interesting is the entire journey westward -after leaving La Junta in Colorado, that the traveller who realizes the -wonderland through which he is passing is very much on the alert for -the landscape. - -Between Adamana and Flagstaff is a strangely interesting country. -Here is Meteorite Mountain, where evidently a huge meteor fell into -the earth with terrific force, upheaving all the surrounding crust -and thus producing a mountain with an enormous cavity in its centre. -For five years men have been digging here to find the meteor. They -have excavated huge fragments of it. The vast hollow crater where the -meteorite is supposed to have fallen into the ground is a mile wide. -In some fragments of the meteor which were submitted to Sir William -Crookes for examination that great scientist found diamonds in small -but unmistakable quantities. - -The Meteorite Mountain is situated not more than ten miles south of -Caņon Diablo, from which station the traveller may drive to this -phenomenal cavity. Within recent months shafts are being projected into -the earth to discover, if possible, whether the meteoric theory is -the true one. More and more, with every year, is science undertaking -to "pluck out the heart of the mystery" in this problematic Arizona. -Prof. G. K. Gilbert, of the United States Geological Survey, has made a -special study of this phenomenon, and it is he who experimented with a -magnetic test, assuming that if an enormous meteorite had hurled itself -into the earth until it was buried past excavation, the great mass of -metallic iron would still respond to the test, and furnish unmistakable -proof of its presence if subjected to magnetic attraction. A scientific -writer who has recently made a study of Meteorite Mountain thus reports -the conditions: - - "The mountain is about two hundred feet high, and there are a few - stunted pines about its forbidding looking slopes. Going to the top - of this mountain, over huge masses of strange-looking rock, one - will find a great depression, generally called the crater, though - there are no evidences of its volcanic formation. This crater is a - huge bowl one mile across and six hundred feet deep. The winds of - the desert have blown much sand into the crater, evidently covering - the bottom of the depression to a depth of many feet. There is a - level space of about forty acres in the bottom of the crater. - - "When the gigantic meteor fell hissing into the earth, if it - ever did so, the concussion must have been terrific. And in this - connection it is interesting to note that the Indians near by - have a legend about a huge star falling out of the heavens and - dazzling the tribe with its brightness. Then there was a great - shock and sudden darkness, and ever since then the Indians have - regarded Meteorite Mountain with awe. Some idea of the action of - the meteorite can be obtained by throwing a stone into the mud. - When the meteorite buried itself far into the earth the sides were - heaved up, leaving a rim-like circle about the depression. As - the meteorite sank into the earth it must have crushed layers of - red sandstone and limestone. It is believed that the white sand - found in the crater and on the sides of the mountain is from the - sandstone pulverized by the meteor in its descent. This sand was - blown skyward and afterward settled down on the mountain, covering - it thickly. No sand like it is to be found near the mountain. - - "Men searching the ground surrounding the mountain for a distance - of several miles find small meteorites. Several of these weigh - as much as one thousand pounds, and others weigh only a fraction - of an ounce. The largest pieces were found furthest from the - mountain. These meteorites have been proved to be practically - non-magnetic. This may explain why the immense body of iron in - the buried meteor has not shown any magnetic properties. Needles - taken to the mountain have not shown the presence of any great - magnetic attraction, and this fact puzzled scientists until it was - found that the fragments found near the mountain did not possess - magnetism. - - "Another interesting discovery is the presence of what is called - 'iron shale' near the mountain. These are fragments of burned or - 'dead' iron. They might have been broken from the meteorite at the - time of the terrific impact, or they might have been snapped from - the larger body owing to a sudden cooling process. Inasmuch as the - Caņon Diablo country was at one time an immense inland sea, another - interesting theory has been brought forth,--that the meteor fell - into this sea, and that the great number of splinters of iron in - the neighborhood were caused by the sudden cooling of the molten - mass. It has been discovered that these small meteorites contain - diamonds." - -In the immediate vicinity of Meteorite Mountain several tons of -meteoric fragments have been found of which Prof. George Wharton James -has one, weighing about a ton, on his lawn at his charming residence in -Pasadena. There are also found in this vicinity large amounts of shale -which scientists pronounce analogous to the meteorite, but "dead"; yet -this shale is highly magnetic and possesses polarity,--one of the most -mysterious and incomprehensible properties of electricity. - -Professor Gilbert did not meet success when he tried the magnetic -test, and in discussing this matter in an address on "The Origin of -Hypotheses," delivered before the Geological Society in Washington last -year, he said: - - "Still another contribution to the subject, while it does not - increase the number of hypotheses, is nevertheless important in - that it tends to diminish the weight of the magnetic evidence - and thus to reopen the question which Mr. Baker and I supposed - we had settled. Our fellow-member, Mr. Edwin E. Howell, through - whose hands much of the meteoric iron had passed, points out that - each of the iron masses, great and small, is in itself a complete - individual. They have none of the characters that would be found if - they had been broken one from another, and yet, as they are all of - one type and all reached the earth within a small district, it must - be supposed that they were originally connected in some way. - - "Reasoning by analogy from the characters of other meteoric bodies, - he infers that the irons were all included in a large mass of some - different material, either crystalline rock, such as constitutes - the class of meteorites called 'stony,' or else a compound of iron - and sulphur, similar to certain nodules discovered inside the - iron masses when sawn in two. Neither of these materials is so - enduring as iron, and the fact that they are not now found on the - plain does not prove their original absence. Moreover, the plain - is strewn in the vicinity of the crater with bits of limonite, a - mineral frequently produced by the action of air and water on iron - sulphides, and this material is much more abundant than the iron. - If it be true that the iron masses were thus embedded, like plums - in an astral pudding, the hypothetic buried star might have great - size and yet only small power to attract the magnetic needle. - Mr. Howell also proposes a qualification of the test by volumes, - suggesting that some of the rocks beneath the buried star might - have been condensed by the shock so as to occupy less space. - - "These considerations are eminently pertinent to the study of - the crater and will find appropriate place in any comprehensive - discussion of its origin; but the fact which is peculiarly - worthy of note at the present time is their ability to unsettle - a conclusion that was beginning to feel itself secure. This - illustrates the tentative nature not only of the hypotheses of - science, but of what science calls its results. - - "The method of hypotheses, and that method is the method of - science, founds its explanations of nature wholly on observed - facts, and its results are ever subject to the limitations imposed - by imperfect observation. However grand, however widely accepted, - however useful its conclusions, none is so sure that it cannot be - called into question by a newly discovered fact. In the domain of - the world's knowledge there is no infallibility." - -Sir William Crookes has been deeply interested in the phenomenon of -Meteorite Mountain, which must take rank with the Petrified Forests -and even with the Grand Caņon as one of the marvels of Arizona. The -meteoric shower which seems to have accompanied the falling of the -huge meteorite--if the theory of its existence is true--has recorded -its traces over a radius of more than five miles from the crater-like -cavity. The experiment of Dr. Foote is thus described: - - "An ardent mineralogist, the late Dr. Foote, in cutting a section - of this meteorite, found the tools were injured by something vastly - harder than metallic iron, and an emery wheel used in grinding - the iron had been ruined. He examined the specimen chemically, - and soon after announced to the scientific world that the Caņon - Diablo Meteorite contained black and transparent diamonds. This - startling discovery was afterwards verified by Professors Friedel - and Moissan, who found that the Caņon Diablo Meteorite contained - the three varieties of carbon,--diamond (transparent and black), - graphite, and amorphous carbon. Since this revelation the search - for diamonds in meteorites has occupied the attention of chemists - all over the world. - - "Here, then, we have absolute proof of the truth of the meteoric - theory. Under atmospheric influences the iron would rapidly oxidize - and rust away, coloring the adjacent soil with red oxide of iron. - The meteoric diamonds would be unaffected and left on the surface - to be found by explorers when oxidation had removed the last proof - of their celestial origin. That there are still lumps of iron left - in Arizona is merely due to the extreme dryness of the climate and - the comparatively short time that the iron has been on our planet. - We are here witnesses to the course of an event which may have - happened in geologic times anywhere on the earth's surface." - -In this desert plateau of dull red sandstone worn by the erosion and -the storms of untold ages, does there indeed lie a submerged star? And -if there does, buried so deep in the earth as to elude as yet all the -research of science, what force projected it, "shot madly from its -sphere," into the desert lands of Arizona? To visit these extraordinary -things--the Petrified Forests, the Meteorite Mountain, the Grand -Caņon--is to feel, in the words of the poet,-- - - "These are but seeds of days, - Not yet a steadfast morn, - An intermittent blaze, - An embryo god unborn. - - * * * * * - - I snuff the breath of my morning afar, - I see the pale lustres condense to a star: - The fading colors fix, - The vanishing are seen, - And the world that shall be - Twins the world that has been." - -Not the least among the phenomena of Arizona is that Emerson, who never -saw the Great West, should have left on record in his poems the lines -and stanzas that seem as if written from personal familiarity with its -unspeakable marvels of scenic and scientific interest. - - - - -CHAPTER X - -LOS ANGELES, THE SPELL-BINDER - - "_This is the land the sunset washes, - These are the banks of the Yellow Sea; - Where it rose, or whither it rushes, - These are the western mystery!_ - - "_Night after night her purple traffic - Strews the landing with opal bales; - Merchantmen poise upon horizons, - Dip, and vanish with fairy sails._" - - EMILY DICKINSON - - "_In what ethereal dances! - By what eternal streams!_" - - -Los Angeles, "the City of the Angels," is invested with the same poetic -suggestion in its name as that which surrounds Santa Fé,--"the City -of the Holy Faith." A terraced street is known as "Angel Flight." Any -retrospective contemplation of Los Angeles gives one the sensation -of having been whirled through the starry immensities of space. -During even a brief stay one afterward discovers by the unerring -logic of mathematics that within a few days he has perhaps travelled -some four hundred miles by the electric trolley cars, besides his -motor-car journeys when shot through space from old San Gabriel to the -Pacific Coast, or from Elysium Park to Hollywood, and far and away -on the opposite side of the city. Were one caught up in an aëro-car, -journeying far above the clouds for ten days, it could hardly seem more -unreal. One can only think of Los Angeles as the City of Vast Spaces. -The town has laid out all the surrounding country, one would fancy, in -beautiful tracts (there are over four thousand), each tract containing -several acres,--laid out under alluring names, with streets, sidewalks, -and lamp-posts. - -The "boom" is something tremendous. Companies and corporations run -free electric cars to points forty miles out of town, as Redondo Beach -and other localities, for people to inspect the lots offered,--lots -at prices from "four dollars down, and four dollars a month," with -the entire cost from ninety dollars up to that of several hundred. -If all the world is not supplied with homes it is not the fault of -enterprising Los Angeles. The incomparable electric trolley system -renders the entire region within fifty miles around eligible for -city privileges. People think nothing of going thirty, forty, even -seventy-five miles by the "express electrics." Over an area of a -thousand miles in length and perhaps one hundred and fifty in width -there is scattered a population less than that centred within city -limits in Chicago. The world is wide--in Southern California. There -is nothing of the dreamy, languorous old Spanish atmosphere in Los -Angeles. It is the most electrically up-to-date city imaginable. The -city limits comprise over twenty-eight thousand acres. The streets are -paved and oiled; the lighting is wonderful, most of it being done from -tall towers rather than ordinary lamp-posts. Not even New York has any -street or avenue so illuminated by night as is Broadway in Los Angeles, -where, as in the boulevards in Paris, one can easily read by the -street lights. Los Angeles has twenty-one great parks and innumerable -hills and valleys in the residence regions. This diversity affords -natural facilities for landscape gardening which are utilized with fine -effect. Spacious boulevards, artificial lakes, and series of terraces -everywhere enchant the eye, seen amidst the bewildering luxuriance of -creamy magnolia blossoms and the graceful pepper tree. - -The enterprise of Los Angeles is equalled by the refinement and culture -of the people, and the schools, churches, libraries--the social -life--all reveal the best spirit of American institutions. - -That this is one of the spellbinding cities goes without saying. -Everything is in gleam and glitter and glow. The electric car and the -telephone system are here developed to a higher degree than perhaps -in any other Western city except Denver. The growth of Los Angeles is -something fairly incredible. A leading park commissioner, Dr. Lamb, has -described the beauty of the four thousand tracts of land (each tract -comprising many acres), all laid out, ready for buyers and builders. -Of the twenty-one parks, one comprises more than three thousand -acres, and another, Elysium Park, over eight hundred acres of hills -and valleys already decoratively laid out with terraced drives and -beautiful shrubs, flowers, and artificial lakes. The trend of the city -is rapidly toward the ocean, some fifteen to twenty miles away, and it -can hardly be five years before from Venice and Santa Monica, on the -coast, to Pasadena, ten miles to the east of Los Angeles, there will -be one solid city, one vast metropolis of the Southwest. The public -library is ably administered, and it is one of considerable breadth of -resources, with the advantage of having for its librarian Mr. Charles -F. Lummis, the well-known writer on the Southwest. Madam Severance, who -in 1878 founded the Woman's Club, a large and influential association -of which for many years she was the president, and Mrs. Rebecca -Spring, the friend of Margaret Fuller, are two Boston women who have -transferred their homes to Los Angeles and whose lives emphasize -Emerson's assertion that it is the fine souls who serve us and not what -we call fine society. - -The rush and the brilliancy of life in all this Los Angeles region -transcend description. Broadway has more than two miles of fine -business blocks, the architecture being restricted to some eight or -nine stories. The beautiful parks, with their artificial lakes, their -date-palm trees, their profusion of brilliant flowers, attract the eye. -There are residence sections of exceeding beauty,--the lawns bordered -by hedges of rosebushes in full bloom and perhaps another rose hedge -separating the sidewalk from the street. - -From the high plateaus of Northern Arizona to the blossoming plains -of California is a contrast indeed. In Arizona these thousands of -acres need only irrigation to become richly productive. The climate -is delightful, for the elevation--over seven thousand feet--insures -coolness and exhilaration almost every day through the summer. But at -present there seems no conceivable way to procure water with which to -irrigate. In California precisely the same land is irrigated and has -also the advantage of a rainy season, and the vegetation and fruits -abound luxuriously. Orange groves, with the golden fruit shimmering on -the trees; lemon groves, olive orchards, and the avenues and groves of -the eucalyptus tree make fair the landscape. An important industry here -is that of lima beans. Tracts of fifteen hundred acres sown with these -are not unusual, and the crops are contracted for by Russia and Germany -almost as soon as sown. On one of these it is said that the owner had -made a princely fortune within two years. The creation of the city in -imagination is in great favor. Vast tracts of country from one to ten -miles outside the city limits are staked out, as before noted; avenues -and streets defined and named, lamp-posts erected, an attractive name -given the locality, and lots are offered for sale from perhaps four or -five hundred dollars up, on the terms of "fifty dollars down and ten -dollars a month." - -The trolley-car service in and around Los Angeles is said to be the -best in the world. To Venice and Santa Monica, on the beach,--at a -distance of some seventeen miles,--there are electric "flyers" that -make the trip within thirty minutes. Venice is a French Étretat. The -little rows of streets at right angles with the coast line, running -down to the water, are named "Rose Avenue," "Ozone Avenue," "Sunset -Street," and other alluring names. This Venice is a veritable (refined -and artistic) "Midway," with its colonnades of shops offering every -conceivable phase of trinkets and _bijouterie_; its concert halls, -casino, gay little restaurants, and every conceivable variety of -amusement. It is the most unique little toy town of a creation -conceivable, and the electrical display and decorations at night are -fascinating in their scenic effect. - -Santa Monica, some two miles farther up the coast, is still, stately, -and poetic. Here the blue Pacific rolls in in the most bewildering -sea greens and deep blues, and over it bends a sky rivalling that of -Arizona in depth and richness of color. The entire Pacific Coast is an -idyl of landscape loveliness. - -But of life. What are the people of this lovely young city of two -hundred thousand inhabitants doing and thinking? It is not a question -to be answered in a paragraph. Life here is intense, interesting, -full of color and movement, and its many-faceted aspects invite -consideration. As one sits, for instance, on a Pasadena piazza, with -the golden glory of the sunset seen over the Sierra Madre, and the -rose hedges, the orange groves, the great bushes of heliotrope that -are almost like young trees pouring out their mingled fragrance on -the evening air, one falls under its spell. As the twilight deepens -into darkness the great searchlight from Mount Lowe, directly in -the foreground, a picturesque panorama, may swing out with its -weird, sweeping, dazzling illumination over the scene. When this -searchlight is out, people at the far-away beaches can see to read by -it at distances of from twenty-five to fifty miles. Quite near Mount -Lowe--one of the adjacent peaks--is Mount Wilson, on which the new -Carnegie Observatory is to be located. This will be fitted with the -largest telescope in the world and will have the advantage of every -latest scientific appliance. - -Pasadena, like all the California towns and cities, covers very large -tracts of country. There is a thriving business centre, not very far -from which are the great Raymond Hotel and other winter resorts for -the throngs of tourists who are almost as important to the revenues -of California as they are to Italy. There are both North and South -Pasadena,--each almost a separate city in itself,--and the most -beautiful street is Orange Grove Avenue, with large estates on either -side and spacious lawns. On Fair Oaks Avenue, in a pretty cottage, -lives Prof. George Wharton James, the famous explorer, scientist, -and notable writer on the Grand Caņon in Arizona,--and the greatest -interpreter, indeed, of the entire Southwest. The books of Professor -James, "In and Out of the Old Missions of California," "The Indians -of the Painted Desert," and "Indian Basketry" (besides his book on -the "Grand Canyon," which is the accepted authority), interpret the -many phases of life in the Southwest in a vivid and accurate manner, -rendering them invaluable to contemporary literature. Professor James -makes his original explorations, taking with him an assistant and his -own camera, and going through varied hardships, almost greater than -could be realized. In the vast desert spaces, remote from any human -habitation, he has had to swim large, muddy, inland lakes, where vermin -were swarming; to go without food and water, and to endure the intense -fatigue of long tramps. In perusing his books the reader little dreams -at what fearful cost of energy all this original material was obtained. -In his home Professor James has a most interesting collection of the -_objets d'art_ of the Southwest. One must travel over this part of -the country in order to appreciate them. They are as distinctive of -New Mexico, Arizona, and Southern California as the old masters and -other phases of Italian art are of Italy. There are brilliant Navajo -blankets and rugs--soft, rich, and vivid in color, with curiously -decorated designs; the most interesting array of Indian pottery--the -many specimens from the old tombs being far finer than any pottery done -by the modern Indians; and at the entrance to his lawn Professor James -has a huge meteorite from Meteorite Mountain in Arizona, which weighs -over a ton. He has a large section of a tree of the Petrified Forest, -and the finer specimens that show the bark and the fibre, and also the -crystallization. His library is large and fine, and comprises many -autograph gift copies from other authors. - -One feature of the life of Professor James is especially helpful. In -his spacious library upstairs, on every Thursday evening, he gives -an informal talk on his travels and explorations to his friends and -neighbors. His personal experiences in studying the phenomenon of the -Salton Sea and the vagaries of the Colorado River, which is a law unto -itself, are most interesting. - -The call of the wild is not more irresistible than the call of the -desert to Professor James. He has lived on it and with it, and learned -to read its hieroglyphics. The desert spirits have companioned him. -He has explored vast spaces of the Grand Caņon; he has encamped, -day after day, even week after week, on the Painted Desert; he has -wandered in the grim strange Tonto Basin, and sailed (of late) the -Salton Sea,--this sheet of four hundred square miles of water, this -impromptu lake where but a little while before was a deserted hollow -of a long extinct volcanic sea. Nature leads man a pretty dance out in -this Land of Enchantment. No one would venture to prophesy at night -just what stage transformation might take place before morning. This -very uncertainty of any particular tenure of mountain, sea, or desert -perhaps tends, unconsciously, to so react upon the population that -their more real life is thrown forward into the future. For instance, -Los Angeles lays no particular stress upon her present population, -but announces that by 1910 the figures will undoubtedly reach the -half-million mark. Nor, indeed, can the observer doubt this in any -contemplation of the present incredible rapidity of progress in every -direction. The city seems half made up of millionnaires, and the latest -municipal bank clearings amounted to almost four hundred millions of -dollars. Los Angeles is really an exotic, for the latest census reveals -the astonishing fact that ninety per cent of its inhabitants are from -the East, leaving only ten per cent as native Californians. Never was -the advertising of a city carried out to the degree of being fairly a -fine art so wonderfully as in Los Angeles. In the Chamber of Commerce -there is a perpetual exhibition of fruits and flowers in season, and of -the products and manufactures of the country. - -Los Angeles, like most of the other more important Western cities, is -deeply concerned with irrigation schemes. This region of California -supplements its rainfall with irrigation, and between the two the -whole country is in bloom and blossom. Los Angeles is now arranging a -gigantic scheme to bring water from the Owen's River, two hundred miles -away, by means of tunnels through mountains and a huge canal. This -fall of water will not only entirely supply the city with water power -of immense force and volume, but it is estimated that it will also -irrigate a hundred thousand acres. The scheme will employ five thousand -men for some four years, and it is estimated that the cost will be -twenty-five millions. No undertaking daunts the Western city. If an -enterprise is desirable, it is to be achieved. That is the law and the -prophets in the Land of Enchantment. - -Los Angeles, like Colorado Springs, is the paradise of excursions. The -trip up Mount Lowe to the observatory offers a magnificent panorama of -landscape, including Pasadena Valley and Catalina and Santa Barbara -islands. Old San Gabriel Mission and the San Gabriel Valley are -infinitely interesting, and the famous bells of San Gabriel still ring -in their quaint, rude stone framework even though they are jangled and -out of tune with the lapse of years. The Sierra Nevada Mountains rise -from the San Gabriel Valley. - -One of the excursions has a feature that is new to every visitor,--that -of glass-bottom power boats which give a view of the marvels of the -ocean. These boats run from Avalon on the coast--an hour's express -trolley ride from Los Angeles--to the submarine gardens adjoining -Catalina Island, and they have a capacity to seat over a hundred -passengers around the glass. In sailing over these submarine gardens -the boats move very slowly, that the passengers may enjoy the view of -the strange seaweed, the marine flowers, the varied aquatic vegetation. -Catalina Island is a favorite sea resort, lying in such convenient -proximity to the city. - -Los Angeles seems to be the paradise of every one who has a new -idea--or ideal--for the betterment of humanity. There is an atmosphere -of idealism. Among the recent institutions is the Pacific School of -Osteopathy, with a faculty of thirty physicians, men and women, who -base their therapeutics on the scientific fact that the body is subject -to chemical, electrical, thermal, mental, and mechanical treatment. In -the line of ethics Rev. B. Fay Mills has established a comprehensive -movement of "Fellowship," including religious services and social -intercourse, with a large and enthusiastic membership drawn by this -eloquent orator and preacher who for many years before in his pastorate -in Boston preached to large congregations who gave him profound -appreciation. - -A most important centre that radiates sweetness and light in infinite -measure is that of Christ Church (Episcopal), whose rector, Rev. -Baker P. Lee, is not only eminent as a preacher, but as a leader and -inspirer of a network of organizations connected with the church for -the betterment of human life. Christ Church parish is a large one, -numbering over two thousand in direct connection with the church, with -a list of communicants of over twelve hundred. Within the past three -years the parish has built a magnificent new church and a rectory, and -the holy earnestness of the young and gifted rector makes the work one -of vital spirituality. - -No city can offer more beautiful homes than those of Los Angeles; -more attractive parks, more enchanting scenery, or more delightful -excursions over a network of electric lines which aggregate above five -hundred miles of single track and reach one hundred towns and villages -from Monrovia of the foothills to Redondo by the sea. The world has -but one Southern California, with its cool, soft, gray sea-fogs in -the early mornings, followed by its cloudless days of blue sky over -golden sunshine; where the sea-breeze gladly brings its health-giving -ozone in exchange for the odors of orange blossoms and roses; where -the mountains stand glorying in the ruggedness of their rocky cliffs -until, touched by sunset's wand, they glow with pink lights and -purple shadows; and over all comes a golden radiance that changes the -forbidding outlines of their jagged peaks into radiant beauty,--fitting -features of the vast panorama of nature to hold their eternal place in -the Land of Enchantment. - - - - -CHAPTER XI - -GRAND CAŅON; THE CARNIVAL OF THE GODS - - "_What time the gods kept carnival!_" - - EMERSON - - "_The earth grew bold with longing - And called the high gods down; - Yea, though ye dwell in heaven and hell, - I challenge their renown. - Abodes as fair I build ye - As heaven's rich courts of pearl, - And chasms dire where flood like fire - Ravage and roar and whirl._ - - "_Come, for my soul is weary - Of time and death and change; - Eternity doth summon me-- - With mightier worlds I range. - Come, for my vision's glory - Awaits your songs and wings; - Here on my breast I bid ye rest - From starry wanderings._" - - HARRIET MONROE - - -One takes the wings of the morning and arrives at the uttermost parts -of the earth to find--the Grand Caņon, the scenic marvel of the entire -world. - -Only to the poet's vision is the Grand Caņon revealed; only to the -poet's touch do its mighty harmonies respond. For this sublime -spectacle is as vital as a drama enacted on the stage, only its acts -require the centuries and the ages in which to represent themselves. -Whatever one sees of the Grand Caņon,--it matters not from what -commanding view of vision or vista, one sees only an infinitesimal -point. It is the Carnival of the Gods. "Prophets and poets had wandered -here," writes Harriet Monroe, "before they were born to tell their -mighty tales,--Isaiah and Æschylus and Dante, the giants who dared -the utmost. Here at last the souls of great architects must find -their dreams fulfilled; must recognize the primal inspiration which, -after long ages, had achieved Assyrian palaces, the temples and -pyramids of Egypt, the fortresses and towered cathedrals of mediæval -Europe. For the inscrutable Prince of builders had reared these -imperishable monuments, evenly terraced upward from the remote abyss; -had so cunningly planned them that mortal foot could never climb and -enter to disturb the everlasting hush. Of all richest elements they -were fashioned,--jasper and chalcedony, topaz, beryl, and amethyst, -fire-hearted opal, and pearl; for they caught and held the most -delicate colors of a dream and flashed full recognition to the sun. -Never on earth could such glory be unveiled,--not on level spaces of -sea, not on the cold bare peaks of mountains. This was not earth; for -was not heaven itself across there, rising above yonder alabaster marge -in opalescent ranks for the principalities and powers?... In a moment -we stood at the end of the world, at the brink of the kingdoms of peace -and pain. The gorgeous purples of sunset fell into darkness and rose -into light over mansions colossal beyond the needs of our puny unwinged -race. Terrific abysses yawned and darkened; magical heights glowed with -iridescent fire." - -If one pauses for a moment with any sense of obligation to himself -to gain some _rationale_ of this caņon; if for a moment he turn from -rhapsody and ecstasy and the dream of poet and painter to grope after -statistical estimates, what does he find? One comparison is that,-- - - "If the Eiffel Tower, which with a height of almost a thousand feet - is the tallest structure in the world, were placed at the bottom of - the caņon in its deepest part, five more towers just like the first - would have to be piled on top of one another to reach the rim of - the plateau." - -And again: - - "Could the caņon be filled in for a building site, it would furnish - room enough for fifty New York cities. Indeed, it would have an - area of sixteen thousand square miles, equal to the whole of - Switzerland, or the states of Massachusetts, Connecticut, Delaware, - and Rhode Island combined." - -Statistical comparisons are, at best, a necessary evil which, once -confronted, need not companion one further. It is beauty, it is -sublimity, not mathematical assurances, that really lays hold on life. -The inexplicable impressions made by this spectacle are mirrored in -the following words:-- - - "As I grew familiar with the vision I could not quite explain its - stupendous quality. From mountain tops one looks across greater - distances and sees range after range lifting snowy peaks into the - blue. The ocean reaches out into boundless space, and the ebb - and flow of its waters have the beauty of rhythmic motion and - exquisitely varied color. And in the rush of mighty cataracts - are power and splendor and majestic peace. Yet for grandeur - appalling and unearthly; for ineffable, impossible beauty, the - caņon transcends all these. It is as though to the glory of nature - were added the glory of art; as though, to achieve her utmost, the - proud young world had commanded architecture to build for her and - color to grace the building. The irregular masses of mountains, - cast up out of the molten earth in some primeval war of elements, - bear no relation to these prodigious symmetrical edifices mounted - on abysmal terraces and grouped into spacious harmonies which give - form to one's dreams of heaven. The sweetness of green does not - last forever, but these mightily varied purples are eternal. All - that grows and moves must perish, while these silent immensities - endure." - -The majestic panorama dominates every detail of daily life. As when in -Bayreuth for the Wagner music-dramas alone, every other consideration -is subordinated to these, so in life in El Tovar, on Bright Angel -Trail, one's hours for sleep and for any daily occupations are -held strictly amenable to "effects" in the mysterious splendor of -the Titanic underworld. To see the caņon under the full moon; to -see it when all the pinnacles of rock are leaping in rose-red flame -under a sunrise; to see it in a dream of twilight as the purple -canopy falls,--all these hours,--all hours are made for the magical -transformations. With every breath of change of the atmosphere this -celestial beauty changes. One is hardly conscious as to the special -ways and means by which he finds himself in an enchanted world,-- - - "From the shore of souls arrived?" - -It is very possible. Nor does he know how--or when--he shall depart. -The past is effaced, and the future recedes into some unformulated -atmosphere. Life, a thousand lifetimes, concentrate themselves in the -present. A supreme experience has always this peculiarity,--that it -bars out all the past and all the future. When one is on the Mount of -Transfiguration, he is not scrutinizing the pathway by which he came -nor that by which he may descend. - -Even if one has seen the Grand Caņon before, he is surprised to find -how absolutely newly created it is to him when its haunting magic -draws him back. No enshrined memory can compare with the reality. In -seeing the Petrified Forest one checks it off as a thing accomplished -for life. It is definite. The great logs of agate and jasper and -chalcedony lie on the ground as they have lain for perhaps thousands of -ages. It is a wonder--the seventh wonder of the world, if one pleases -and--the paradise of geologists, but it is unchanging. Not so the -Grand Caņon. The caņon is a perpetual transformation scene. Its color -effects rival those of an electric fountain under the full play of the -spectroscope. It is rose, purple, amber, emerald, pearl gray, pale -blue, scarlet--according to atmospheric states. One leaves it in the -late afternoon with the rocky towers and pinnacles and battlements all -in glowing scarlet, seen through a transparent air. He steps out upon -the broad hotel piazzas an hour later and, behold, the uncalculated -spaces of the caņon are filled with a half-transparent blue mist which -envelops all the curious sandstone formations that gleam in pale rose -and opal tints through this thin blue mist, and assume wraith-like -shapes. Major Powell well said, that really to see the Grand Caņon, a -year is necessary. Yet just as truly may it be said that even for two -days it is worth crossing the continent to enjoy this most marvellous -of spectacles. Only the scientist and the specialist dream of seeing it -in anything like completeness. For the tourist and traveller a range of -twenty miles is quite sufficient to disclose its representative beauty. -A day's drive by the stage to Grandview Point, Hance's Trail, and -Moran's Point is easily made between nine and five o'clock. A drive -of two or three miles in the opposite direction will include Rowe's -and O'Neil's points. One day will allow the adventurous tourist to "go -down the trail." Still, after doing all these things, the best of all, -it may be, is to live into the atmosphere. To draw one's chair out on -the broad balcony of the new and beautiful hotel, El Tovar, and sit and -dream and gaze and wonder, and wonder and gaze and dream, is, perhaps, -the greatest joy one can have in all the time passed here, especially -if the solitude can be the solitude _ā deux_. No joy, no interest, is -of much consequence until or unless it is sympathetically shared. As a -_décor de scčne_ the Grand Caņon is unrivalled. The magic and mystery -of all the universe broods over its Titanic spaces. - -[Illustration: GRAND CAŅON, FROM GRAND VIEW POINT] - -The air is the most bracing, exhilarating, and exquisite imaginable. -The great rolling mesas covered with pine forests are more than -seven thousand feet above the sea, and their exhilarating and tonic -properties are beyond description. The entire atmosphere is fragrant -with the pines. Throat and chest are bathed in balm and healing. There -can hardly be any difficulty with the bronchial and breathing mechanism -that cannot find its cure here. And the charm, the utter enchantment of -living on this rainbow-tinted caņon, a mile and a half deep, thirteen -miles across at this "Bright Angel" point (and this is its narrowest -place), the joy of life is to steep one's self in the atmosphere -of enchanting loveliness; and this perpetual play of color is an -experience that finds no interpretation in language. - -On first alighting from the branch of the Santa Fé that runs from -Williams, Arizona, to Bright Angel, at the head of Bright Angel Trail -on the Grand Caņon,--a three hour's ride of transcendent beauty among -the purple peaks of the San Francisco mountains,--on first stepping -from the train up the terrace to the beautiful "El Tovar" built on the -very rim of the caņon, one objects strenuously to entering the hotel. -His eye has caught the Vision,--a "celestial Inferno bathed in soft -fires?" or the "Promised Land?" or the mystical vision that John saw -on the Island of Patmos? The hotel would, presumably, remain; but this -spectacle,--what can it be save a mirage, one never seen before on -earth and perhaps not to be too confidently anticipated in Paradise? -Would such a picture remain? Can one safely leave a sunset which is all -a miracle of splendor while he goes in to dine? Can he safely turn away -from the heavens when a young moon at night is winging her way down the -sky and expect to find her midway in the heavens? And could one safely -leave this most marvellous scene of all while he should bestow himself -in his rooms? - - "Would the Vision there remain? - Would the Vision come again?" - -Could it be, in the very nature of things, any more permanent than any -other momentary revelation of an enchanted hour that would fade -into the darkness as night came on, like the splendor of a sunset, the -color-scheme of a rainbow, or the glory and the freshness of a dream? - -[Illustration: ZIGZAG, BRIGHT ANGEL TRAIL, GRAND CAŅON, ARIZONA] - -Instead, the Grand Caņon prefigures itself to one as an apparition, -and while he may gaze upon it under all changing lights of dawn, of -noonday, of sunset--and of moonlight--he cannot come to any realization -that it is there all the time. His room in the hotel may look out into -it and over it; and, waking in the night, he rises and leans out of his -window to see if it is still there. One does not expect a vision of -the New Jerusalem, a palpitating, changing, flaming, throbbing sea of -color--in its rose-reds, its greens, its amber, gold, and purple--to -remain like a field or a forest. It seems a thing of conditions, -visible at one moment, vanished, perchance, the next. - -Think of a chasm a mile and a half deep, from thirteen to eighteen -miles wide, and as long as from Boston to New York--two hundred miles! -Think of it again as not merely a deep, dark chasm, but as filled with -the most wonderful architectural effects in the sandstone formations -which simulate Chinese pagodas, temples, altars, cathedrals, domes, -and towers so perfectly that one is incredulous of the fact that their -shaping is nature's work alone. Add to this the color scheme, now an -intense royal purple, again flashes of rose and green and ivory and -a rare blue; or again a "nocturne" in silvery gray, with hints of -lingering rose and amber shimmering in the air. Until within a few -years the Grand Caņon was so inaccessible as to quite account for -the general ignorance of this most wonderful scenic phenomenon in -our country, and, indeed, with no exaggeration be it said, the most -wonderful in the entire world. Twenty Yosemites might be thrown into -it and make no impression; and as for Niagara, it would be a mere tiny -waterfall in comparison. - -In the trail leading downward into the caņon the first level is just -five times the height of St. Peter's in Rome, or the Pyramids of Cheops. - -[Illustration: A CLIFF ON BRIGHT ANGEL TRAIL, GRAND CAŅON] - -From the brink one looks down a mile and a half into towers and -pinnacles; one looks across eighteen miles in the widest place; -and one looks up and down its tortuous length, as its complicated -system of caņons revealed themselves as far as the eye could see -either way. One gazes, not into a deep, dark cleft, a Titanic royal -gorge, but on and into a sea of color and a wealth of architectural -wonders,--cathedrals, towers, mosques, pinnacles, minarets, temples, -and balconies exceeding in variety of design, in extraordinary beauty -of grouping and splendor of color, anything of which one could dream, -even in his most enchanted moments. The red sandstone, the brilliant -white of the limestone luminous under the setting sun, the green of -pine trees or of copper rocks, the gray and ochre tints of gravel and -fallen rocks and débris, the soft, deep purple mist enveloping all -as an atmosphere in which all these architectural marvels seemed to -swim--the strange, unearthly splendor of it all--holds one under a -fascination that can neither be analyzed nor described. This, then, is -"El Grande Caņon de la Colorado." One stands speechless, breathless, -as if transported to some other planet. Suddenly all life--everything -that floated in memory--seemed confused, unreal. Was the past (whose -running series of incident and event and circumstance already seemed -vague) a dream, and was this the reality? Or had there never been any -reality in life before? Was this a dream, wrought under some untold -spell of enchantment? Would one hear the water nixies chanting their -refrain if he listened? Or was this scene of Titanic grandeur the abode -of Wagner's gods and heroes? One watched for the sacred fires to flame -on Brunhilde's rock and for Siegfried to appear. One saw the ship which -had borne Tristan on his ill-starred voyage, and the garden where the -lovers confessed their intense and instant love, and the fatal potion -scene rises before him; and again he is lost in rapt ecstasy as the air -seems filled with the passionate drama of Lilli Lehmann and Alvarez. -For let Ternina and other younger women come and go in the Wagner -music-drama, and yet where will that absolute perfection of dramatic -action, that passionate exaltation of emotion, ever again attend and -invest any singer as they invest and are identified with Lilli Lehmann? - - "The Fairest enchants me, - The Mighty commands me." - -In this most sublime of all earthly spectacles there are aërial -landscape effects as delicate and evanescent as a cloud-wreath, or as -a fog that advances, wraith-like, to melt away into dissolving views. -"The region is full of wonders and beauties and sublimities that -Shelley's imaginings do not match in the 'Prometheous Unbound,'" wrote -Charles Dudley Warner. - -If the world realized the marvellous effects of this very Carnival -of the Gods, the infinite spaces of the Grand Caņon itself could not -contain all who would eagerly throng to behold it. The statistical -record of the increase of visitors is rather interesting. In 1900 there -were eight hundred and thirteen; the succeeding year, six thousand -eight hundred and eighty-three; while in 1903 the number increased -to nearly one hundred and twenty-eight thousand. Since that date the -number of visitors has multiplied itself after the fashion of compound -interest. The establishment of all the conveniences and comforts, not -to say luxuries, of modern travel may be one of the most potent factors -in this increase of visitors. Until within five years the Grand Caņon -could only be reached by a stage ride of seventy miles through the -Coconino Forest,--whose dim gray twilight reminds one of the forests -of Fontainebleau,--and which drive, however romantically beautiful, -was attended with too great terrestrial discomfort to commend it to -general public service. Until 1906 the hotel accommodations, also, -while offering a modest comfort, were essentially primitive; while -now the superb new Harvey hostelry, "El Tovar," built at a cost of a -quarter of a million dollars (and the Harvey name is a synonym in the -West for everything admirable in dining cars, refreshment stands, and -hotels), insures to every traveller any degree of luxurious comfort he -requires. Even the man who, after visiting all the enchanted points in -the Land of Enchantment, in its prehistoric period of twenty years ago -before Pullman cars climbed the mountain peaks and the Waldorf-Astoria -type of hotels sprang up, the man who, after a trip through these -wonders of the world, returned to New York and declared that he would -rather see an electric bell and a bath than all the grandeur between -Pike's Peak and the Pacific, would now be fully reconciled to Western -sojourns. He would find his electric bell and his bath to be as much a -matter of course as in Fifth Avenue, besides also finding that there -were spectacles,--as that of the Garden of the Gods, Cheyenne Caņon, -the Petrified Forests, the Grand Caņon, and the Los Angeles electric -trolley system (which quite deserves to rank with the modern "Seven -Wonders" of the world), and which Fifth Avenue by no means provided for -her votaries. In fact, "El Tovar" is so inclusive of comfort as to be -fairly a feature of the caņon, commanding, on one side, a magnificence -of prospect without parallel in the world in the mighty chasm on -whose brink it stands, on the other side the fragrant Coconino pine -forest,--the largest belt of pine timber in the United States, and -which has been made a government forest reservation. - -There is now a project to erect a memorial to Major John W. Powell, the -pioneer explorer of the Grand Caņon, to be placed on the rim at the -head of Bright Angel Trail at El Tovar. This most fitting plan to honor -the name of the great scientist and explorer whose research contributed -the first authoritative knowledge of the caņon is the thought of the -American Scenic Association, which will petition Congress to grant the -requisite appropriation. No monument to human greatness could be more -ideally placed than this to perpetually repeat to every visitor and -sojourner the name of the explorer who successfully achieved the most -startling and heroic journey in all history,--that made through the -complete extent of the Grand Caņon. - -It was in 1869 that Major Powell, with four boats and nine men, -inaugurated this expedition, starting from Green River City in Utah. -He was dissuaded and importuned in the most urgent way by those -most familiar with the region not to attempt the feat. The Indians -especially insisted that no boat could live in any one of the score of -rapids to be passed. There was also a tradition that for some hundreds -of miles the river lost itself in the earth, and Major Powell and his -men would thus be imprisoned within a Titantic fortress from which -escape would be impossible. But men of destiny do not hesitate when -they are led to great achievements. Major Powell set out on May 24, -1869, with his nine men and four boats, and landed on August 3, with -four men and two boats, at the mouth of the Virgin River, after having -sailed the boiling torrent of the Colorado River, at the bottom of the -caņon, for more than a thousand miles. Mr. C. A. Higgins characterizes -this feat as "the most wonderful geological and spectacular phenomenon -known to mankind." - -The first authentic knowledge of the existence of the Grand Caņon -dates back to August of 1540, when the Spanish friar, Alvar Nuņez, -after years of romantic wanderings among the pueblos of the Southwest, -returned to Mexico with tales of this mighty chasm. Coronado, who -had discovered the Seven Cities of Cibola (of which now only Zuņi -remains), ordered Garcia Lopez to take a band of men and Indian guides -and search for this chasm, which he succeeded in discovering; with the -more difficulty, surely, in that one has to gain its very rim before he -has hardly an intimation of its proximity. The spectacle of the caņon -always presents itself as a sudden surprise. It was not, however, until -1884 that, by the building of the great transcontinental line, the -Santa Fé, the Grand Caņon became accessible. Then for some twenty years -it was reached, as has already been noted, by stage from Flagstaff. -Now one can travel in his sleeper without change from Chicago to El -Tovar, and thousands of tourists annually visit the extraordinary -scene. Not the least of the interesting data regarding the caņon is -this gulf of more than three hundred years that divides its discovery -from its taking rank as the most phenomenal scenic resort of the world. -The mills of the gods grind slowly. The visitors to the Grand Caņon -present singularly cosmopolitan groups, there being hardly a country in -the world that is not represented at some time during the year. - -For the caņon has all seasons for its own. It is almost as much of -an object of winter as of summer pilgrimage. One season is found, on -the whole, to be almost as enjoyable here as another. It is cool in -summer, and it is warm and sunny in winter. Sometimes there is a fairy -snowfall, but hardly more lasting than a spring frost, and when it -comes it only adds another flitting variety to the stupendous scene. - -With untold tons of the water of the Colorado River pouring itself in -torrents through the bottom of the caņon, all the water used for the -table, for toilet, and for laundry purposes has to be brought from a -distance of a hundred and twenty miles, and twenty thousand gallons are -in daily use. An electric-light plant furnishes brilliant illumination. - -The Hopi House, built in imitation of an Indian pueblo, with a group -of quaintly garbed Hopi Indians within in attendance, is a curiosity; -and besides the Hopis there are Navajos and Supais coming to sell their -handiwork,--that of pottery, silver ornaments, blankets, and baskets. -Cataract Caņon, forty miles from El Tovar, is the home of the Supais, -and it is a place that well repays visiting for an entirely new point -of view of the vast caņon that it affords. There are peaceful Indians -to be seen daily riding their horses through the pine woods, journeying -from El Tovar to Grand View, to "Hance's Trail," to "Moran's Point," -and other localities, to sell or barter their wares. One old Indian -who seems to roam about alone has developed an ingenious manner of -procuring food when he is hungry. He enters the hotel office and seeks -the proprietor himself, recognizing with unerring instinct that this -gentleman's liberal endowment of sympathy and unfailing generosity -never permits him to "turn down" a request for aid. The wily old savage -seeks him out and makes conspicuous overtures of his affection. - -"You is heap my son; pale face heap my son!" the dusky visitor -declares, and when this assurance is emphasized to the proprietor he -realizes that it means he is "heap my son" because his visitor is -hungry. These outbursts of devotion occur only when the old Indian is -at his wits' end to know where to procure something to eat. Once fed he -is off, and thinks no more of the man whom he assured that he was "heap -my son" until hunger again assails him and stimulates his parental -affection. - -So the little trifles and pleasantries of the _comédie humaine_ -assert their place in the general life even on the rim of the sublime -spectacle of the Carnival of the Gods. - -For more than two hundred miles the caņon offers its innumerable -panoramas, no one ever duplicating that of another. There are thousands -of caņons in it--it is a complicated system of colossal caņons. Every -wall is an aggregation of hundreds of walls. Every pinnacle is formed -of hundreds of pinnacles. When the sun shines in splendor on the -vermilion walls, the glory is almost beyond what man can bear. When -from the trail below a star seems to float in the air and rest on the -verge of the cliff, what words can convey any image of this ineffable -beauty? - -The cloud-effects are another of the phases of faëry. A rain creates a -panorama of clouds creeping out of one caņon and flying into another, -all "as if they had souls and wills of their own," says Major Powell; -and he adds, "In the imagination the clouds belong to the sky, and when -they are in the caņon the skies come down into the gorges and cling to -the cliffs and lift them up to immeasurable heights, for the sky must -still be far away; thus they lend infinity to the walls." The caņon -mirrors the color and the state of the sky as water does. This is one -of the most curious facts connected with it. "Yet form and color do not -exhaust all the divine qualities of the Grand Caņon," continues Major -Powell; "it is the land of music. The river thunders in perpetual -roar, swelling in floods of music when the storm-gods play upon the -rocks, and fading away in soft and low murmurs when the infinite blue -of heaven is unveiled.... The adamant foundations of the earth have -been wrought into a sublime harp upon which the clouds of heaven play -with mighty tempests or with gentle showers." - -Major Powell, the explorer and practically the modern discoverer of the -caņon, remains its most complete interpreter. His journal narrating -that remarkable voyage through the Colorado River in a region "more -difficult to traverse than the Alps or the Himalayas," is fairly an -epic in American literature. He had the vision of the painter and the -heart of the poet. He felt that infinitely complex variety of the -caņon, and he read its sublime inscriptions on a scroll not made with -hands. He pictures one feature especially that has hardly been touched -by other writers,--that of the perpetually changing aspects. "One -moment as we looked out over the landscape," he writes, "the atmosphere -seemed to be trembling and moving about, giving the impression of an -unstable land: plains and hills and cliffs and distant mountains seemed -vaguely to be floating about in a trembling, wave-rocked sea; and -patches of landscape would seem to float away and be lost, and then -reappear.... The craggy buttes seem dancing about.... The sun shone -in splendor on the vermilion walls. Shaded into green and gray when -the rocks were lichened over, the river filled the channel from wall -to wall, and the caņon opened like a beautiful doorway to a region of -glory. But at evening, when the sun was going down and the shadows were -settling in the caņon, the scarlet gleams and roseate hues, blended -with tints of green and gray, slowly changed to sombre brown above and -black shadows crept over them from below.... Lying down, one looked -up through the caņon and saw that only a little of the blue heavens -appeared overhead,--a crescent of blue sky with but two or three -constellations peering down upon us. Soon I saw a bright star that -appeared to rest on the verge of the cliffs overhead, and, as it moved -up from the rock, I almost wondered that it did not fall, and indeed it -appeared as if swayed down by its own weight. The star appeared to be -_in_ the caņon, so high were the walls." - -So the wonderful story of Major Powell's runs on of these atmospheric -phenomena of the caņon, effects that - - "... give to seas and sunset skies - Their unspent beauty of surprise." - -It is from Bright Angel Trail that the Grand Caņon is the most -accessible. Parties of men and women, mounted on sure-footed burros, -go down this trail with their guides--apparently under the special -protection of the bright angels of the celestial host, as no accident -has ever, thus far, occurred. Prof. George Wharton James notes, in his -invaluable work on the Grand Caņon,[5] that this trail was originally -used by the Havasupai Indians and that the rude irrigating canals that -conveyed water from an adjacent spring to a so-called Indian Garden -in the near vicinity are still to be seen. The view from the head of -Bright Angel Trail is one of vast extent and a peculiar sublimity. -Buddha Temple is a colossal pile that rises in isolated grandeur, -and near it is Buddha Cloister. An impressive tower of rock rising -in the caņon bears the honored name of Agassiz. Isis Temple and the -Temple of Brahma are within the range of the eye from this point. -The perfectly transparent air, and that absence of aërial vibration -that characterizes the atmosphere of Arizona, conspire to invest all -distance with magic illusion. Looking across the thirteen miles of the -caņon's abyss from Bright Angel Trail, the opposite rim hardly seems -farther away than the distance of three or four city blocks. Isis -Temple is said to be as great in mass as the mountainous part of Mt. -Washington, and the summit of Isis looks down six thousand feet into -the depths of a chasm, the ledges on the side being "as impracticable -as the face of Bunker Hill Monument." - -It is a noticeable fact, and one which the general reader may regard -with quiet amusement, that all the writers who even attempt to allude -to the Grand Caņon quote copiously from each other; and this is the -almost inevitable instinct of each, in order to reinforce himself with -authority for statements which, to those who have not themselves gazed -upon this Carnival of the Gods, would sound incredible even to the -verge of the wildest extravaganza. Major Powell's vivid transcription -of his thrilling journey through the caņon, sailing through the -boiling, rushing river whose torrents constantly threatened to engulf -his boats,--Major Powell's transcription stands for itself alone; -it was not only the pictured scenes of a writer, but the scientific -report of an official government explorer; but since this,--and from -Major Powell's narrative every writer invariably quotes,--since this, -the writers quote from each other; they use each other's statements -as evidence which they cite in order to support their own statements -regarding a marvel so unspeakably phenomenal that the most literal and -statistical description reads like an Arabian Nights romance. Then, -too, the array of pen-pictures is interesting. A writer who coined -wonderful descriptive phrases is Mr. C. A. Higgins. Of the silent -transformations of the caņon when it "sinks into mysterious purple -shadow" he said: "The far Shinumo Altar is tipped with a golden ray, -and against a leaden horizon the long line of the Echo Cliffs reflects -a soft brilliance of indescribable beauty, a light that, elsewhere, -surely never was on sea or land. Then darkness falls," he continues, -"and should there be a moon, the scene in part revives in silver light -a thousand spectral forms projected from inscrutable gloom; dreams of -mountains, as in their sleep they brood on things eternal." Others who -have written of the Grand Caņon are: Harriet Monroe, whose poet's pen -is dipped in the colors of an artist's palette; George Wharton James; -and Mr. Charles S. Gleed, a distinguished lawyer of Topeka, who thus -described the Caņon's wonders: - - "Surrendering our minds to the magic spell of that mighty chasm, - what pictures troop before us! Yonder see Gibraltar, giant sentinel - of the Mediterranean. There on long ledges are St. Peter's - and St. Paul's, Niagara, the Pyramids, and the Tower of Pisa. - Bracketed beyond are the great parliament houses of the world. - Down below behold in life size the lesser mountains of our own - land,--Washington, Monadnock, Mansfield, Lookout, and a thousand - others. See in the distance a million colored pictures of the Alps, - the Adirondacks, and the Sierras. On endless shelves, this way and - that, behold the temples and cathedrals, the castles and fortresses - of all time. See vast armies, the armies of the ages, winding up - the slopes, and great navies manoeuvring in the mirage-like - distance. Here, indeed, the giant mind of Dante would have found - new worlds to conquer; and Homer would have dreamed new dreams of - gods and men, love and war, life and death, heaven and hell." - -Hamlin Garland, in one of his prose-poems, has said: - - "The clouds and the sunset, the moonrise and the storm, will - transform it into a splendor no mountain range can surpass. Peaks - will shift and glow, walls darken, crags take fire, and gray-green - mesas, dimly seen, take on the gleam of opalescent lakes of - mountain water. The traveller who goes out to the edge and peers - into the great abyss sees but one phase out of hundreds. If he is - fortunate, it may be one of its most beautiful combinations of - color and shadow. But to know it, to feel its majesty, one should - camp in the bottom and watch the sunset and the moonrise while the - river marches from its lair like an angry lion." - -Robert Brewster Stanton, a civil engineer whose original work has -brought him prominently before the scientific world, followed Major -Powell's explorations, twenty years later, with a surveying company of -his own organization,--and Mr. Stanton is, indeed, the only explorer -who has made the continuous journey the entire length of the Colorado -River which Major Powell navigated for a thousand miles. It was in May -of 1889 that Mr. Stanton and his men initiated this daring feat, and -of one phase of the appearance of the caņon Mr. Stanton's glowing, -eloquent pen recorded: - -"Those terrifying, frowning walls _are moving, are changing_! A new -light is not only creeping over them, but is coming out from their -very shadows. See those flattened slopes above the dark sandstone on -top the granite; even at this very moment they are _being colored_ in -gorgeous stripes of horizontal layers of yellow, brown, white, green, -and purple. - -"What means this wondrous change? Wherein lies this secret of the great -caņon? - -"After living in it and with it for so many weeks and months, I lost -all thought of the great chasm as being only a huge rock mass, carved -into its many intricate forms by ages of erosion. It became to me what -it has ever since remained, and what it really is,--a living, moving, -sentient being! - -"The Grand Caņon is not a solitude. It is a living, moving, pulsating -being, ever changing in form and color, pinnacles and towers springing -into being out of unseen depths. From dark shades of brown and black, -scarlet flames suddenly flash out and then die away into stretches of -orange and purple. How can such a shifting, animated glory be called 'a -thing'? It is a being, and among its upper battlements, its temples, -its amphitheatres, its cathedral spires, its monuments and its domes, -and in the deeper recesses of its inner gorge its spirit, its soul, -the very spirit of the living God himself, lives and moves and has its -being." - -Mr. C. M. Skinner, of the "Brooklyn Eagle," impressively wrote: - - "... After the sky colors, too, have faded, you are about to turn - away, lingering, regretting, when--again, a wonder; for new colors, - deep, tender, solemn, flow up along the painted walls, as night - brims out of the deep. The bottom grows vague and misty, but each - Walhalla is steeped in purple as soft as the bloom of grapes. - When day is wholly gone and the caņon has become to the eye a mere - feeling or impression of depth and space, walk out on some lonely - point. The slopes, thirteen miles away, are visible as gray walls, - distinct from the black cliffs, and on the hither side the trees - are clear against the snow. No night is absolute in blackness, but - as we look it seems as though the caņon was lighted from within. - It is an abyss of shadow and mystery. There is a sadness in the - caņon, as in all great things of nature, that removes it from human - experience. We have seen the utmost of the world's sublimity, and - life is fuller from that hour." - -All these and many other transcriptions of its glory form a picture -gallery which each lover of the Grand Caņon prizes as among his -choicest possessions. Thomas Moran, the artist, has painted many -scenes from the caņon, one of these paintings having been placed in -the Capitol in Washington, where it is the object of the admiration -and the wonder of the endless procession of visitors who throng the -nation's centre. Painter and poet and prophet make their pilgrimages -to this one stupendous Marvel of Nature. To the prophets and the poets -of every century and every age it flashes its responsive message; and -the worshipper at the shrine of this Infinite Beauty, this sublimest -Majesty, can but feel, with Mr. Higgins,--that poetic lover of the vast -Southwest, the lover of music and literature and art and nature, whose -beautiful life on earth closed in 1900, but whose charm of presence -still pervades the scenes he loved and memorialized,--with this lofty -and poetic recorder of nature one can but say of the Grand Caņon: -"Never was picture more harmonious, never flower more exquisitely -beautiful. It flashes instant communication of all that architecture -and painting and music for a thousand years have gropingly striven to -express. It is the soul of Michael Angelo and of Beethoven." - - * * * * * - -In retrospective glance over a very midsummer night's dream of -the ineffable glory and beauty of wanderings from Pike's Peak to -the Pacific there stands out to the mental vision one treasured -possession whose loveliness exceeds that of all scenic landscape; -which is more luminous and crystal clear than the luminous atmosphere -of beautiful Colorado or glowing Arizona; which is more enduring in -its changelessness than even the Petrified Forests or the mighty -precipices of the Grand Caņon; which is invested with all the etherial -splendor of that brilliant young city which the Spanish conquerors -knew as _Pueblo de la Reine de los Angeles_: which is as sacred in its -nature as are the sacred legends of the Holy Faith of St. Francis. -This treasured possession is that of the friendships formed during -this enchanted journey; of the generous kindness, the bountiful -hospitality; the exquisite courtesy and grace constantly received -from each and all with an unfailing uniformity, including those in -widely varying relations and pursuits; those who, according to outer -standards, are the more, or the less, fortunate in power, resources, or -development,--the treasured possession of all this sweet and gracious -friendliness is imperishable; and in this priceless and precious gift, -which is not only a treasure for the life that now is, but also for the -life which is to come, is there crystallized all the charm of summer -wanderings in the Land of Enchantment. - - - - -INDEX - - - - -INDEX - - - Acoma, New Mexico, 183; - theory of its origin, 184; - its antiquity, 185; - rivalry between it and Laguna, 185, 186; - Charles F. Lummis on, 186, 187. - - Adamana, the gateway to the Petrified Forests of Arizona, 270; - origin of its name, 270; - the simple life at, 274, 275. - - Adams, the Hon. Alva, 117, 118; - quoted, 118, 119, 120. - - Agriculture in Colorado, 130, 131; - in New Mexico, 204, 205. - - Albuquerque, New Mexico, 196; - excursions from, 196; - a "smart" town, 200; - characteristics of, 201. - - Ames, Rev. Dr. Charles Gordon, on civilization, 162. - - Arizona, sights of, 4, 228, 229, 239, 257, 258, 267, 268; - a treasure land, 9; - visited by the Spaniards, 214; - a land of magic and mystery, 228, 254, 255; - its resources, 230, 255; - irrigation in, 230, 231, 246; - rainfall in, 230, 279; - its attractions for men of science, 231, 232; - flora of, 232; - cacti of, 233; - grasses of, 234; - climate of, 234, 235, 256; - as a health resort, 234, 235; - meaning of the name, 236; - history of, 236; - separation from New Mexico, 236, 237, 252; - rivers of, 240, 251; - capital of, 243; - towns of, 251; - safety of property in, 251; - citizens of, 252, 254; - festivity of the "Snake Dance," 258, 259, 260, 261; - the "Painted Desert" of, 263, 264, 265, 266; - Petrified Forests of, 270; - desert of, 284, 285. - - - Bear Creek Caņon, 89. - - Bell, the Hon. John C., and the Gunnison Tunnel, 111. - - "Ben Hur," where written, 219. - - Boston woman characterized, 23. - - Brooks, Bishop Phillips, on the superhuman, 181; - quoted, 216. - - - California, Southern, features of, 9. - - Campbell, Rev. Frederick, on Glenwood Springs, 96, 97. - - Campbell, Prof. H. W., on "dry farming," 129, 130. - - Caņon Diablo, Arizona, 289, 292. - - Caruthers, William, on resources of Cripple Creek, 77. - - "Cathedral Rock," 74, 75, 81. - - Cheyenne Caņon, 65, 66, 67; - Helen Hunt Jackson on, 65. - - Cliff-dwellings of Southern Colorado, 114, 115, 116; - bill in Congress for preservation of, 114, 115; - opinions concerning, 116; - at Flagstaff, Arizona, 286. - - Colorado, splendors of, 14, 139; - a second Italy, 15, 97; - people of, 16; - woman suffrage in, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29; - developed a demand for specialists, 33; - employment in, 33; - revenue of, 34; - railways of, 37, 40, 99; - C. B. Knox on the future of, 39; - Major Pike's description of, 63; - has larger percentage of American population than any other Western - state, 88; - waterfalls of, 104; - irrigation of, 110, 111, 119, 126, 127, 133, 134, 141, 145, 146, 151; - yachting in, 111, 112, 113; - mountain climbing in, 113, 114; - agriculture in, 130, 131; - ranching in, 132; - "trip round the circle" journey described, 134, 135, 136, 137, 138; - engineering feats in, 138; - park systems of, 139; - industries of, 139, 140, 141; - stone-quarrying in, 142, 143; - mineral resources of, 143, 144, 147; - population of, 147; - progress of, 148; - towns of, 148; - northern, 149; - coal-fields of, 150; - fruit cultivation in, 151; - labor in, 152, 153; - forests of, 153, 154; - sport in, 155; - public school system in, 173; - literature and art in, 177; - its future, 178, 180, 181. - - ----, pioneers of, 157-181; - contrasted with the Pilgrim Fathers, 158; - "Denver Republican" on, 158; - their unselfishness, 159, 160, 163; - environment of, 162, 163; - Nathan Cook Meeker, 164-176. - - Colorado College, 85, 86, 87. - - Colorado Fuel and Iron Company, 124, 125, 126. - - Colorado River, Arizona, 240; - Prof. N. H. Newell on, 240, 241, 242. - - Colorado Springs, gateway to Pike's Peak district, 51; - climate of, 52; - excursions from, 52; - as a tourist centre, 57; - summer and autumn in, 83; - the town described, 84; - life at, 84, 85; - founded by General Palmer, 85; - buildings of, 88; - park system of, 89, 91. - - Commencement ceremonies in East and West contrasted, 86. - - Cripple Creek, towns of, 75, 76; - gold resources of, 75, 76, 77; - mines of, 76; - character of miners in, 77, 78; - favorite excursion from, 78, 79. - - - Denver, 15; - metropolis of the West, 16; - climate of, 16, 44; - its buildings, 17, 18, 19; - residential district of, 17; - the Capitol, 18; - City Park, 18, 19; - homes of, 19; - telephone service of, 21; - women of, and politics, 22, 23, 25; - election frauds in, 28; - smelteries of, 34; - growth of population, 37; - future of, 38; - City Arch, 40, 41, 42; - spirit of the city, 42; - enterprise of, 43; - an early opinion of, 43; - a convention city, 45; - Art League of, 46; - institutions of, 46; - education in, 46, 47; - churches of, 47; - life in, 48; - should replace Washington as capital of the Union, 48, 49; - electrical supply in, 106. - - Denver and Rio Grande Railway, 99; - scenery on, 100. - - "Denver Republican, The," quoted, 147; - on the pioneers of Colorado, 158. - - "Dry Farming" system, discovered by Prof. H. W. Campbell, 129; - Professor Olin on benefits of, 131; - extent of, in Eastern Colorado, 131; - success of, in New Mexico, 204. - - - Eliot, Rev. Dr. Samuel A., quoted, 86, 87. - - Emerson, Ralph Waldo, quoted, 25, 51, 63, 94, 104, 157, 182, 228, 268, - 270, 275, 296, 311. - - Estes Park, Colorado, 155. - - - "Fairy Caves" of Colorado, 98, 100, 101. - - Fellows, Professor, surveys for the Gunnison Tunnel, 109, 111. - - Flagstaff, Arizona, 286; - its antiquities, 286; - the Lowell Observatory at, 287, 288. - - Franciscans, mission churches of, 191, 209, 210; - their labors, 208, 216, 217. - - Frost, Colonel Max, on old New Mexico, 187-193; - his influence in New Mexico, 225; - his career, 226; - Secretary of the Bureau of Immigration, 227. - - - "Garden of the Gods," Colorado, 91, 92; - gateway to, 91, 92. - - Garland, Hamlin, on the Grand Caņon, 333, 334. - - Gilbert, Prof. G. K., studies Meteorite Mountain of Arizona, 290, 293, - 294. - - Gleed, Charles S., on the Grand Caņon, 333. - - Glenwood Springs, Colorado, 94; - its mineral springs, 94, 95; - bathing at, 95, 96, 97; - Rev. Frederick Campbell on, 96; - hot cave of, 97; - "Fairy Caves" of, 98, 99, 100, 101; - scenery at, 99. - - Grand Caņon, 4; - scenic marvels of, 311, 312, 314, 315, 317, 319, 321; - Harriet Monroe on, 312, 313; - compared with the Eiffel Tower, 313; - area of, 313, 319, 328; - always revealing new beauties, 316; - atmospheric effects of, 316, 318, 319; - approach to, 318, 325, 326, 330; - architectural effects of, 319, 320, 328; - Charles Dudley Warner on, 322; - visitors to, 322; - hotels of, 323; - proposed memorial to Major John W. Powell, 324; - earliest discovery of, 325; - the Hopi House at, 326; - Indians of, 327; - Major Powell's journal of his exploration of, 329, 330, 332; - Prof. George Wharton James on, 331; - eulogies of, by C. A. Higgins, 332, 337, - by Charles S. Gleed, 333, - by Hamlin Garland, 333, - by Robert Brewster Stanton, 334, - and by C. M. Skinner, 335; - paintings of, by Thomas Moran, 336. - - Grand Caverns of Pike's Peak, 68, 69; - memorial to General Grant in, 69. - - Grand Lake, Colorado, 112; - its yacht club, 112. - - Grand River, the, 101. - - Grant, General, memorial to, in Grand Caverns, 69. - - Greeley, founding of, 164, 169, 171, 172; - constitution of, 172; - population of, 173; - educational establishments of, 173; - churches of, 174; - buildings of, 175; - life in, 175; - the Meeker Memorial Library, 175. - - Greeley, Horace, and Colorado, 168. - - "Greeley Tribune, The," on irrigation, 127, 128; - foundation of, 174. - - Grenfell, Helen, record of, 27. - - Gunnison River, Colorado, 107, 108; - plan to divert, 108. - - Gunnison Tunnel, 108, 109, 110. - - - Hammond, the Hon. Meade, and the Gunnison Tunnel, 111. - - Higgins, C. A., on the Grand Caņon, 332, 337. - - Hosmer, Harriet, on travelling by night, 12. - - Howe, Julia Ward, quoted, 161. - - - Irrigation in Colorado, 107, 110, 111, 119, 125, 126, 127, 128, 133, - 134, 141, 145, 146, 151; - in New Mexico, 203, 204; - in Arizona, 230, 231, 246; - in California, 302, 307, 308. - - - Jackson, Helen Hunt, quoted, 65. - - James, Prof. George Wharton, on Californian missions, 210; - on Indian life in Arizona, 261, 262, 263; - on the "Painted Desert," 264, 265; - home of, at Pasadena, 305, 306; - his love of the desert of the Southwest, 306, 307; - on the Grand Caņon, 330. - - - Kansas City, 13. - - Kearny, General Stephen W., occupies Santa Fé, 218, 219; - memorial to, 218; - quoted, 218. - - Kirley, the Hon. Joseph H., on Arizona, 251. - - Knox, C. B., on Colorado, 39, 40. - - - Lacey, Representative, on the Mesa Verde cliff-dwellings, 115, 116. - - Laguna, New Mexico, 185, 186. - - Las Vegas, New Mexico, 199; - hot springs of, 199, 200; - its attractions, 202. - - Lindsay, Judge, on woman suffrage, 27, 28, 29. - - Lookout Mountain, Colorado, 102, 103; - scenery on the ascent of, 103. - - Los Angeles, the "boom" of, 229, 300, 301; - trolley system of, 299, 303; - lighting of, 300; - its parks, 301; - public library of, 301; - climate, 302; - irrigation in, 302, 307; - life of, 303, 304, 310; - population of, 307; - as a centre for excursions, 308; - idealism of, 309; - Pacific School Osteopathy at, 309; - churches of, 309, 310. - - Lowell Observatory, 6, 268, 276, 287, 288. - - Lowell, Professor Percival, 287. - - - Manitou, 67, 68, 104; - mineral springs of, 67. - - Manitou Park, 64, 65. - - Maricopa County, 243, 244. - - Mars, photographs of, taken at Lowell Observatory, 287, 288, 289. - - Mead, Prof. Elwood, on irrigation, 144, 145. - - Meeker family, 164, 165. - - Meeker, the Hon. Nathan Cook, 165; - his career, 165, 166; - his visit to the West, 167; - Horace Greeley encourages him to establish a colony in Colorado, 168; - founds the town of Greeley, 169; - his work among the Indians, 169, 170; - massacred, 170. - - Meeker, town of, 170, 171. - - Mendoza, expeditions organized by, 213, 236. - - Meredith, Ellis, 79; - her literary work, 80; - her ode to the "Short Line," 81. - - "Mesa, the Enchanted," ascent of, 184; - described, 184. - - Mesa Verde, cliff-dwellings of, 115, 116; - Representative Lacey on, 115, 116. - - Meteorite Mountain, Arizona, 290; - theory of origin, 290, 291, 293, 295; - discovery of diamonds in, 290; - description of, 291, 292; - experiments of Dr. Foote relating to, 295. - - Monroe, Harriet, on the "Painted Desert," 263; - quoted, 311; - on the Grand Caņon, 312, 313. - - Montezuma Well, Arizona, 257. - - Monument Park, 91. - - Monument Valley, 91. - - Moran, Thomas, paintings by, of the Grand Caņon, 336. - - Mount Massive, ascent of, 113, 114. - - Mountain climbing in Colorado, 113, 114. - - Muir, John, discovers a new Petrified Forest of Arizona, 277. - - Munk, Dr. Joseph A., on the cacti of Arizona, 232, 233; - on Arizona as a health resort, 234, 235. - - Murphy, the Hon. N. O., opinions on the union of Arizona and New - Mexico, 253, 254. - - - New Mexico, features of, 8; - climate of, 13; - a land of surprises, 182; - its mixed population, 182; - scenery of, 183; - ruins of, 183; - its ancient civilization, 187-193; - Franciscan mission churches of, 191; - archæology of, 193; - its progress in modern ideas, 194; - French expedition to, 195; - compared with Algiers, 195; - hotels in, 195; - resources of, 196, 197, 198; - irrigation in, 203, 204; - railroads of, 203; - opportunities in, 204; - fruit growing in, 205; - mineral wealth of, 205; - under Spanish rule, 214; - records of, 217; - Historical Association of, 220. - - Newberry, Dr., on Arizona, 267. - - Newell, Prof. N. H., on the Colorado River, 240, 241, 242. - - Newspapers of the Southwest, 122; - "Greeley Tribune" quoted, 127; - "Denver Republican" quoted, 147, 158; - "The New Mexican," 225; - "The Eagle" of Santa Fé, 227. - - Night, charm of travelling by, 11, 12; - at Pike's Peak, 55, 56. - - Nizza, Friar Marcos de, missionary labors of, 208; - expedition of, 213. - - - Oņate, Juan de, founds Santa Fé, 214. - - - "Painted Desert," The, of Arizona, 261-266; - Prof. George Wharton James on, 262, 264; - Harriet Monroe on, 263. - - Pajarito Park, New Mexico, 187. - - Palmer, General William J., founds Colorado Springs, 85; - benefactor of the state, 89, 90, 93; - residence of, 90. - - Pasadena, California, 304; - home of Prof. George Wharton James at, 305, 306. - - "Pathfinders and Pioneers," Governor Alva Adams on, 118, 119, 120. - - Patterson, Senator, career of, 31, 32. - - Petrified Forests, the, of Arizona, 270; - a visit to, 271, 278, 279; - atmospheric effects in, 272, 273, 283; - towns in neighborhood of, 276; - metropolis of, 277; - discovery by John Muir, 277; - difficulties of visiting, 279; - three in number, 279; - area of, 279; - antiquities of, 281, 282; - preservation of, insured by the Government, 282; - the marvel of the geologist, 283; - an arid region, 284. - - Phillips, Stephen, quoted, 15. - - Phoenix, capital of Arizona, 243; - a tourist centre, 243; - attractions of, 245; - winter in, 245; - school system of, 252. - - Pike, Major (afterwards General) Zebulon Montgomery, discovery by, 59; - his ascent of Pike's Peak, 60; - his career, 61, 62; - diary of, 62, 63. - - Pike's Peak, region of, 4; - gateway of, 51; - winter at, 51; - the mountain described, 52, 53, 54; - sunsets at, 54, 55; - at night, 55, 56; - cogwheel railway of, 56; - ascent of, 57, 58; - its souvenir daily paper, 57; - summit of, 58; - discovery of, 59; - centenary of discovery celebrated, 64; - favorite excursion in vicinity of, 64. - - Pilgrim Fathers, contrasted with the Colorado pioneers, 158. - - "Point of Rocks," Arizona, 238. - - Powell, Major John W., explores the Grand Caņon, 324, 325; - journal of his expedition, 329, 330. - - Prescott, in Arizona, 237; - mines of, 237; - the "Point of Rocks" near, 238; - surrounding country, 238. - - Prince, the Hon. L. Bradford, on New Mexico, 218. - - Pueblo, 116, 117; - home of Governor Alva Adams in, 117; - its amenities, 121, 123; - club-house of, 121; - climate of, 122; - library of, 122; - plant of the Colorado Fuel and Iron Company at, 124, 125, 126. - - - Ranching in Colorado, 132. - - Raton, New Mexico, 198. - - Routt County, mineral wealth of, 39. - - - Salpointe, Most Rev. Dr. J. B., archbishop of New Mexico, 210. - - Salt River Valley, Arizona, 230, 244, 247; - its mammoth dam, 231; - fruit-rearing in, 247. - - Salton Sea, the, 242. - - Salton Sink, the, 242, 243. - - San Xavier, mission church of, 215, 217. - - Santa Fé, consecrated by holy memories, 207; - founded by Oņate, 209, 214; - centre of archdiocese, 210; - church of San Miguel, 209, 211; - visit of Diego de Vargas to, 211; - buildings of, 212; - inhabitants of, 212; - oldest town in the United States, 214; - occupied by General Stephen W. Kearney, 218; - governed by General Lew. Wallace, 219; - "Ben Hur" written at, 219; - old palace of, 220; - society in, 220, 221; - precious stones in vicinity of, 221; - chapel of San Rosario, 221, 222; - history of, 223; - buildings of, 223. - - Santa Monica, California, 303. - - Seeman Tunnel, the, 35; - claims reached by, 36. - - "Short Line" trip, Colorado, 4, 7, 70, 71, 72; - homes along the railway, 74; - hand-car journey on, 79, 80, 81; - Ellis Meredith's ode to, 81. - - Skinner, C. M., on the Grand Caņon, 335, 336. - - "Snake Dance, The," in Arizona, 258, 259, 260, 261. - - Southwest, scenic attractions of, 4-14; - characteristics of life in, 10; - travelling facilities of, 11, 12; - gateway of, 13. - - Stanton, Robert Brewster, on the Grand Caņon, 334, 335. - - Stone, Lucy, and the emancipation of women, 24. - - St. Peter's Dome, railway up, 4; - excursion to, 64; - ascent of, 71, 73; - view from, 72, 74. - - Sugar, cultivation of, in Colorado, 139, 140, 141, 150. - - - Teller, the Hon. Henry M., career of, 30. - - "Temple Drive," a favorite excursion in Pike's Peak region, 64. - - Tennyson, Lord, quoted, 3. - - Thayer, Mrs. Emma Homan, 102; - her "Wild Flowers in Colorado," 102. - - Tonto Basin, mammoth dam at, 246, 248, 249, 250; - entailed the destruction of the town of Roosevelt, 247, 250. - - - Vaca, Cabeza de, expedition of, 213. - - Vargas, Diego de, visits Santa Fé, 211, 221; - his vow to the Virgin Mary, 222. - - - Wallace, General Lew., governor of New Mexico, 219; - writes "Ben Hur" at Santa Fé, 219. - - Walsh, Thomas F., on Colorado and Philippine interests, 140, 141, 142. - - Warner, Charles Dudley, on the Grand Caņon, 322. - - Washington, may give place to Denver as the capital of the Union, 49. - - Water-power, in Colorado, and electricity, 104, 105, 106, 107. - - Webster, Daniel, on the worthlessness of the West, 179. - - Whitman, Walt, quotation from, 158. - - Woman suffrage, 23, 24, 25; - in Colorado, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29; - Judge Lindsay on, 27, 28, 29. - - - Yachting in Colorado, 111, 112, 113. - - - Zumacacori, mission church of, 215. - - - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] The Life Radiant: Little, Brown, & Company, 1903. - -[2] The Old Santa Fé Trail: The Story of a Great Highway, 1897. The -Macmillan Company. - -[3] In and Out of the Old Missions of California, by George Wharton -James. Little, Brown, & Co., Boston, 1905. - -[4] Arizona Sketches, by Joseph A. Munk, M.D. The Grafton Press, New -York. - -[5] In and Around the Grand Canyon, by George Wharton James. Little, -Brown, and Co. 1900. - - - - -TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES: - - Text in italics is surrounded with underscores: _italics_. - - Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. - - Archaic and variable spelling as well as inconsistencies in hyphenation have been preserved. - - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Land of Enchantment: From Pike's -Peak to the Pacific, by Lilian Whiting - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAND OF ENCHANTMENT: *** - -***** This file should be named 55718-8.txt or 55718-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/5/7/1/55718/ - -Produced by Donald Cummings, David E. 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